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^ 



THE NEW 

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT 



OF 



SCOTLAND. 



VOL. VIIL 



THE NEW 



STATISTICAL ACCOUNT 



OF 



SCOTLAND. 



ISY 



TIIK MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE 
SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY 

FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND 
DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. 



VOL. VI II. 



DUNBARTOX-STIRLING-CLAOKMANNAS. 



WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, 

EDINBURGH AND LONDON. 

MDCCCXLV. 



DUNBARTON, 






CONTENTS. 



ARROCHAR, .... PAGE 94 
RON HILL, .... 220 

CARDR08S, ... 83 

CUMBERNAULD, .135 

DUNBARTON, ... 1 

KILMARONOCK, .211 

KILPATRICK, NEW, • . . 36 

KILPATRICK, OLD, . .15 

KIRKINTILLOCH, . 168 

LU88, . . .155 

ROSENEATH, . . . 102 

ROW, . . . . .65 



1 



rv 



t 



PARISH OF DUMBARTON. 

PRESBYTERV OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. WILLIAM JAFFRAY, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name, — The word Dumbarton or Dunbarton is a corruption 

of the old name Dunbriton, a compound word, which signifies the 
fort or castle of the Britons. When a town was built near the 
walls of the fort, the same name was given to it. It was after- 
wards applied to the parish, and lastly to the county. 

Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is between 7 and 8 miles in length, 
and from 3 to 4 in breadth. In the Old Statistical Account, the 
length is stated at from 2 to 3 miles. * This is quite correct as 
to the inhabited part ; but the author has excluded a large moor 
belonging to the burgh of Dumbarton, which is quite uninhabited, 
except by a single family. Mr Chalmers has also fallen into error 
in regard to the extent ; he states the length at 4, and the breadth 
at 2 J miles.-f" It is bounded on the north, by the parishes of Bon- 
hill, Kilmaronock, and Killearn ; on the north-east and east, by 
Killearn and West Kilpatrick ; on the south, by the river Clyde ; 
and on the west, by the river Leven, which separates it from the 
pari.^h of Cardross. By a survey made in 1818, by Mr W^ood, the 
parish was found to contain 6522 Scots, or 8155 English acres. 

Topographical Appearances. — The south part of the parish is flat ; 
but towards the north, about the distance of two miles from the Clyde, 
it rises rather abruptly, and from that, to the northern extremity, is 
nearly all moorland. There are a few small hills on the moor, but 
Done of any great height. The most singular object in the parish is 
the Castle rock, which stands at the southern extremity, on a 
small peninsula formed by the junction of the River Leven with 
the Clyde, and is composed of trap of various kinds. In winter, 
sometimes, when the tides are unusually high, it is entirely sur- 
rounded with water. The rock is nearly divided into two equal parts. 

• Statistical Account, Vol. iv. page 21. f Calcdonin, Vol. iii. page 914. 

DUMBARTON. A 



1 



PARISH OF DUMBARTON. 

PRESBYTERV OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW i 

THE REV. WILLIAM J AFFRAY, MINIST 



I. — Topography and Natural Histori 
Name, — The word Dumbarton or Dunbarton is a 

of the old name Dunbriton, a compound word, which s 

fort or castle of the Britons. When a town was bu 

walls of the fort, the same name was given to it. I 

wards applied to the parish, and lastly to the county. 

Extent^ §-c. — The parish is between 7 and 8 miles 
and from 3 to 4 in breadth. In the Old Statistical -A 
length is stated at from 2 to 3 miles. * This is quit 
to the inhabited part ; but the author has excluded a 
belonging to the burgh of Dumbarton, which is quite i 
except by a single family. Mr Chalmers has also falU 
in regard to the extent ; he states the length at 4, and 
at 2^ miles.-f" It is bounded on the north, by the paris 
hill, Kilmaronock, and Killearn ; on the north-east a 
Killearn and W^est Kilpatrick ; on the south, by the r 
and on the west, by the river Leven, which separates 
parish of Cardross. By a survey made in 1813, by Mr 
parish was found to contain 6522 Scots, or 8155 Eng 

Topographical Appearances, — The south part of the p 
but towards the north, about the distance of two miles froi 
it rises rather abruptly, and from that, to the northern < 
nearly all moorland. There are a few small hills on tli 
none of any great height. The most singular object in 
the Castle rock, which stands at the southern oxtr 
small peninsula formed by the junction of the River 
the Clyde, and is composed of trap of various kinds, 
sometimes, when the tides are unusually high, it is i 
rounded with water. Tiie rock is nearly divided into two 

• Statisttc.l1 Account, Vol. iv. pago^l. t Caledonin, Vol. 

DUMBARTON. A 



2 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

The western part is the highest, being about 206 feet above the 
level of the sea. The eastern peak is not quite so high. There 
are houses within the walls of the castle, which are capable of con- 
taining about 200 men. 

Rivers. — The only river in the parish is the Leven, a beautiful 
stream, which takes its rise in Lochlomond, and after a smooth 
even course of seven miles over a bed 

** With white round polished pebbles spread," 

forming the western boundary of the parish for several miles, it 
discharges itself into the Clyde at Dumbarton Castle. 

Climate^ Sfc. — The climate is on the whole moderate, though 
rather damrp and variable. Very heavy showers are frequent in 
spring and autumn. The winter is generally temperate, frost and 
snow not continuing for any great length of time. The prevailing 
winds are from the west and south-west In spring, easterly 
winds sometimes continue for a long time, and often do much in* 
jury to the early vegetation. 

Towards the close of the year, dense fogs for days hang over 
the south part of the parish. At that time,- the influenza is very 
prevalent, and often proves fatal to infirm and delicate people. 
Scarlet and typhus fever prevail very much, sometimes, indeed, to 
a most alarming degree. The small-pox, hooping-cough, and 
measles, are also very common ; but the small-pox is usually very 
mild, and few deaths occur from it, as vaccination is very gene- 
rally practised. 

The soil of the parish is generally fertile, but rather shallow. 
On the south side, there are several fields of very rich soil. 
There are many difierent kinds of soil ; in some parts, it is very 
clayey, in others full of gravel. There is a very plentiful supply 
of limestone at a place called Murroch glen ; and on the moor of 
Dumbarton, there are quarries of red freestone; The stone when 
taken out of the quarry is soft, but it soon hardens when exposed 
to the air. 

Zooloffy — Large flocks of wild ducks {Jnas boschas)^ and teal 
(Anas crecca)j are common. Besides these, several different kinds 
of the diver tribe visit the parish. Among the rarer birds are the 
kingfisher (Alcedo ispida)^ the bittern (Ardea stellaris)^ the black- 
backed gull (Lams marinus)^ the little awk (Aha aUe)y and the 
wild swan (Anas cygniis ferns). The roebuck is sometimes found, 
and wild rabbits and hares are tolerably plentiful. Adders are nu- 
merous on the high grounds. 



DUMBARTON. 3 

II. — Civil History. 

No general account of this parish has ever been drawn up (so 
far as known), except that in the Old Statistical Account A very 
good account of the castle, and some excellent remarks as to the 
ecclesiastical state of the parish, are to be found in the third vo- 
lume of Chalmers's Caledonia. There are two works on the agri- 
culture of the county of Dumbarton, which contain some notes on 
the agriculture of the parish. Both of these are reports which were 
drawn up for the consideration of the Board of Agriculture : the 
first drawn up by the Reverend David Ure, and published in 
1794 : * the other, the joint performance of the late Reverend 
Andrew White, minister of the parish of Kilmaronock, and the 
. Reverend Dr Macfkrlane, then minister of the parish of Drymen, 
now Principal of the University of Glasgow, and published about 
seventeen years after, f A good plan of the town of Dumbar- 
ton was published by Mr Wood in 1818, in the map of the coun- 
ty ; at the same time, a separate plan of the town was published 
by him. A very neat and correct plan was drawn in J 830, from 
surveys, made by the late Mr Henry Reed, one of the masters of 
the public school ; it belongs to the magistrates of Dumbarton. 

Parochial Registers. — The parish registers consist of three sets ; 
the minutes of sederunt ; the register of baptisms and marriages ; 
and the register of deaths. The minutes of sederunt consist of 
nine volumes, which are generally in good order, but are only 
complete from 1704. The earliest date is 1667. A volume of 
minutes bearing date about 1620 had fallen, by some chance, into 
the hands of an individual in town; the kirk-session, however, 
think that they will be able to recover it 

There are six volumes of the registers of baptisms and mar- 
riages. The earliest date is 1642; and they are complete from 
1701. 

Tlie register of deaths consists of two volumes, the one from 
1691 to 1749, the other from 1783 to 1795. 

Antiquities. — At a very early period, it appears that there* was a 
town at or near the site of the burgh of Dumbarton, which was cal- 
led Alclud or Alcluid, and was the capital of the kingdom of the 
Attacotti. The word Alclud signifies the rock of the Clyde, or on 
the Clyde ; it was at first applied to the castle, and afterwards to 
the town, as the name Dunbriton was applied in the same manner, 
at a later period. The Romans had a naval station here, which they 

• 4t6, London, 1794. t ^^'"» (ilisgow, 1811, 



4 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

called Theodosia. This has been disputed, and the mouth of Loch- 
lomond, and Dunglass, in the parish of West Kilpatrick, about two 
miles higher up the river than Dumbarton, have both been thought 
to be the situation. It is said that, about two hundred and forty 
years ago, several remains were found, which evidently showed that 
the Romans had been masters of the place. On the western peak 
of the castle rock, there stands a circular heap of stones strongly 
built together, which is supposed to have been the base o{r pharos 
or watch-tower. 

The parish, generally, occupies no great space in the page of 
history ; but the castle, from its great strength in former times, 
and from the strenuous efforts always made to obtain possession of 
it, is sometimes made mention of. It became a royal fortress at 
an early period. In 1238, Alexander II. granted a charter to 
the Earl of Lennox, confirming him in the possession of his earl- 
dom ; but excepting the castle and certain lands, &c in the neigh- 
bourhood, which had been possessed by his father. ♦ The castle 
was delivered over to Edward I. at the commencement of the com- 
petition for the crown, and was shortly afterwards put into the 
hands of John Baliol. Sir John de Menteith, the betrayer of 
Wallace, was made governor by Edward. Sir John governed the 
fort till 1309, when Robert Bruco obtained possession of it by 
stratagem. We are not informed of the way in which it was taken ; 
but Mr Chalmei*s mentions that one " Oliver, a carpenter," con- 
trived the affair, and that he was afterwards rewarded by a grant 
of some lands, f For a long series of years after, the castle fell 
into many different hands. 

The castle was formally annexed to the crown in 1485 by the 
act of Parliament, 11 James 11. cap. 41. The statute bears, *' Item, 
the Castell of Dumbertane, with the landes of Cardrosse, Ros- 
neth," &c. 

The history of the castle is of little importance till the time of 
Queen Mary. In the early part of her reign, the fort was possessed 
by the rebel Earl of Lennox ; but afterwards possession was ob- 
tained by the Royalists. After the unfortunate Queen was de- 
throned, the castle was still held for her by a faithful adherent — 
Lord Fleming. It soon, however, fell into the power of the Regent. 
In the month of May 1571, on a dark and stormy night, one Cap- 
tain Thomas Crawford, with a few soldiers under his command, 
succeeded in taking it by scaling the walls. Hamilton, the Arch- 

• Chart. Lennox. f Caledonia, Vol. iii. page 878. 

3 



DUMBARTON. 5 

bishop of St Andrews, the governor's wife, and several other per- 
sons were made prisoners. The Archbishop was taken to Stirling 
shortly after, and was cruelly put to death. He was hanged on a 
tree; and the following couplet is said to have been written on the 
occasion : — 

Vive diu, felix arbor, seraperque vireto 
Frondibus, ut nobis talia poma feraa. 

The castle was in the possession of Charles I. at the commence- 
ment of the war ; but in the early part of the year 1639, the rebels 
became masters of the place. The King recovered it in the same 
jear. Id 1640, it again fell into the hands of the rebels. Shortly 
after, the Scottish Parliament ordered that the works on the rock 
should be destroyed. It appears, however, that the command was 
never obeyed. Oliver C'romwell obtained possession in 1652. At 
the time of the union, the castle of Dumbarton was one of the forts 
that was agreed to be kept in repair. The establishment consists 
of a governor, lieutenant-governor, barrack-master, store-keeper, 
and surgeon. Lord Lyndoch is the governor at present. The troops 
usually stationed there, consist of about thirty men, who are ge- 
nerally sent from the depot at Glasgow or Paisley; and about 
twelve men from the Royal Artillery. 

The town of Dumbarton was made a royal burgh by Alexander 
IL in 1222; at the same time, he granted certain lauds in the 
neighbourhood, and the right of fishing in the river Leven, for a 
considerable distance above the town. 

Several other charters were granted in favour of the burgh by 
succeeding sovereigns, which were all confirmed by a charter of 
James VI. dated 13th December 1609, and whi<*,h was ratified in 
1612 by Parliament.* About this period, the town was much 
damaged by floods, so much so, that application was made to the 
Parliament to obtain a sum of money to enable the magistrates to 
do something to prevent the town being entirely destroyed. A 
commission was appointed to enquire what sum would be neces- 
sary ; they reported that " na les nor the sowme of threttie 
thowsand pundis Scottis money was abill to beir out and furneis 
the necessar charges and expenses in pforming these warkies, that 
are liable to saif the said burgh from ytter destructioune." f The 
Parliament accordingly granted the sum of twenty-five thousand 
merks Scots for that purpose. It appears that that sum was not 

• Acu Pari. Vol. iv. page 483. f Ibid. Vol. iv. page 376. 



6 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

sufficient, for King James soon after granted a further sum of 
twelve thousand merks. 

At the Union, Dumbarton was joined with Glasgow, Renfrew, 
and Rutherglen, in returning a Member to Parliament. By the 
Reform Act it is joined with Kilmarnock, Port-Glasgow, Ren- 
frew, and Rutherglen. The parish church of Dumbarton existed 
at an early period. The first notice of it appears in the Rotuli 
Scotiae, in 1296.* Mr Chalmers says, that the church, with all 
its pertinents, was granted to the monks of Kilwinning, and that it 
belonged to them till the time of the Reformation, -f- 

A grant of the patronage of the " kirk and parochin of Dum- 
bartane, parsonage and vicarage thereof, with the mans and glib, 
houss, tenements, biggings, teinds, fruits, rentis," &c. ''to the 
Provost, Baillies, Counsell and communitie of the burgh of Dum- 
bartane," was made in 1618. The charter is dated 10th June, and 
was ratified by Parliament on 26th June 1633. The town-coun- 
cil still enjoy the right of patronage. 

Besides the parish church, there was a collegiate church in the 
parish. It was founded about 1450, by Isabella the Duchess of 
Albany and Countess of Lennox. A single arch, supposed to be 
the remains of the church, is still in existence close to the town. 

Eminent Men. — The parish of Dumbarton has not produced 
n»any men of eminence. The only man of historical importance, 
who was a native of the parish, was Sir James Smollett of Bon- 
hill. This eminent man was born in Dumbarton, but the precise 
date of his birth is unknown. He was intended for the profession 
of the law, and was bred as a writer in Edinburgh. He represent- 
ed the burgh of Dumbarton in the Convention of Estates in 1688; 
he also represented the same burgh in several subsequent Parlia- 
ments. Smollett supported the Revolution of 1688, and when Wil. 
liam III. was raised to the throne he received the honour of 
knighthood, and was made a Judge in the Commissary Court of 
Edinburgh. Towards the close of the seventeenth century, when 
the great question of the Union of England and Scotland began 
to be agitated in Parliament, he came forward as a zealous advo- 
cate of the proposed union. In 1707, he was appointed one of the 
commissioners for framing the Articles of Union, and was the first 
member who represented the Dumbarton district of burghs in the 
British Parliament. 

Sir James married Jane M*Aulay, a daughter of Sir Aulay 

• Acta Pari. Vol. i. page 25. f Cale Ionia, Vol. iii. pagu 902. 



DUMBARTON. 7 

M'Aulay of Ardincaple, and left several sons and daughters. 
His youngest son, Archibald Smollett, was the father of the 
celebrated Dr Tobias Smollett, the author of " Roderick Ran- 
dom." Dr Smollett was not born in the parish of Dumbar- 
ton ; his birth-place being in the neighbouring parish of Car- 
dross; but it was at the school of Dumbarton, then taught by 
Mr John Love, that he received his first lessons in classical 
learning. His biographer, Dr Anderson, thus speaks of him 
at that period : " The first blossoms of his poetical genius api^ear- 
ed at this early period of his life : They were chiefly satirical 
verses on his school-fellows, whose character and conduct disgust- 
ed him ; and were remembered, as they evinced, when a boy, the 
sensibility of his temper, and his disposition to chastise insolence 
and expose rudeness." ♦ When he had received the ordinary 
course of school education, he went to the University of Glasgow ; 
but does not appear after that to have had any connection with 
the parish. 

Mr John Love, the master of the school of Dumbarton, was a 
native of the parish of Dumbarton, and born in the year 1 695. 
He received his education at the University of Glasgow, and he 
was elected about the year 1720, master of the school of Dumbar- 
ton. This school had been for a long time prior, a celebrated one 
(or classical education; it is said that George Buchanan the histo- 
rian, received part of his education here;f this, however, is uncer- 
tain. Mr Love, after labouring for fifteen years in Dumbarton, 
was promoted to the High School of Edinburgh. He continued 
there about four years, when he was removed to the school of Dal- 
keith in 1739. Mr Love, along with Mr Robert Hunter, A. M. 
Professor of Greek in the University of Edinburgh, published 
an edition of Buchanan's Translation of the Psalms. The book 
was printed by the Ruddimans, and was published in 1737. :|: 
This edition of that beautiful translation is the best which has yet 
been published. Love was a very great admirer of the writings of 
George Buchanan, and became engaged in a sharp controversy 
with one Mr William Lauder, who endeavoured to prove that 
Johnston's version of the Psalms was superior to that of Buchanan. 
In 1740, Love wrote a pamphlet entitled Buchanan's and John- 
stones paraphrase of the Psalms compared ;§ and in 1749, he pub« 

* Anderson's Life of Dr SmoHetl. 

f Mackenzie's Lives of Scois Writers, Vol. iii. page l^C. 

* Edinburgh, 173T,8vo. § Do. 1740, 8vo. 



^ DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

lished a book called " A Vindication of Mr George Buchanan.** • 
Mr Love died at Dalkeith in 1750, aged fifty-five years. He had 
a most thorough knowledge of the ancient classics, and possessed 
the happy faculty of being able to convey his knowledge to others. 
Dr Anderson says that he was " an eminent scholar, an excellent 
teacher, and a good man."f 

The Rev. John Freebairn, a native, and for several years minis- 
ter of the parish, though not known for any literary production, 
was a man possessed of considerable talents. In the General As- 
sembly he must have made a good figure, as Henry Mackenzie, in 
his Life of John Home, describes him thus : He was *' a plain coun- 
try clergyman, but of infinite native humour," &c. " whose talent 
for enlivening a debate by pleasantry, or turning the laugh against 
his adversary by sarcasm, not rude, though keen, I have seldom 
heard equalled by any debater whomsoever.''^ 

The late Dr Patrick Colquhoun, the author of a ** Treatise 
on the Wealth, Power, and Resources of the British Empire," 
and for some years one of the police magistrates of London, was a 
native of Dumbarton. By his will, he left the sum of L. 200 Ster- 
ling, to the minister and elders of the parish of Dumbarton, the 
interest of which was to be divided yearly among poor people of 
the name of Colquhoun in the parishes of Dumbarton, Cardross, 
Bonhill, and Old Kilpatrick, not receiving parochial aid.§ 

HI. — Population. 
The first statement of the population of the parish of Dumbar- 
ton was taken about the year 1750, for Dr Webster. The popu- 
lation then amounted to about 1480. According to the Old Sta- 
tistical Account, the number in 1790 amounted to rather more 
than 2000 souls. 

In 1801, 2541 

18II, . 3121 

1821, 3481 

1831, . 3623 

In the last mentioned year there were 1697 males, and 1 926 females- 
About the beginning of 1837, an enumeration of the population 
of the parish was made, in order to answer the queries proposed 
by the Commissioners for ascertaining the opportunities of Reli- 
gious Instruction, &c. The population was then found to have 
decreased very considerably, the total amount of the inhabitants 

• Edinburgh. 1749, 8vo. f Life of Smollett, page 12. 

t Account of the Life of Mr John Home, 8vo, Edinburgh, 1822, Vol. i. p. 62, 
§ Dr Colquhoun, previous to his removal to London, was Lord Provost of Glas- 
gow. 



DUMBARTON. 9 

only being 3116.* This decrease can be accounted for thus : In 
1831, when the last Parliamentary census was taken, the trade of 
the town of Dumbarton was in a very flourishing state. A large 
quantity of crown-glass and bottles was made annually, which em- 
ployed a conf^iderable number of men. Shortly after the census 
of 1831, the manufacture was stopped, and the workmen of course 
were all thrown out of employment. These men were obliged to 
leave Dumbarton to seek employment elsewhere, chiefly in Eng- 
land. Since that time, no glass has been made at these works. 
At the time of taking said census, two large ship-building concerns 
were in full operation. One of them was not situated in the pa- 
rish, although most of the men there employed lived in the parish 
of Dumbarton. Like the glass-works, they were unfortunately stop- 
ped, and the men were all thrown idle. Subsequently, they re- 
sumed work, but not to the same extent as formerly. The num- 
ber of inhabitants in the landward part of the parish is about 800 ; 
the rest live within the town of Dumbarton. 

The average number of births in the parish for the last seven 
years has been about 69, and the number of marriages during the 
same period about 30. It is impossible to give any thing like a 
correct statement of the average number of deaths, as no register 
of deaths has been kept for more than forty years. According to 
a private note kept in 1837, the number buried in that year was 
127 ; but from this we cannot form a fair estimate, as, during 
that time, typhus fever prevailed to a most alarming extent, and 
many of the people buried were strangers. 

There are only about five proprietors in the parish possessing 
lands above the yearly value of L. 50 Sterling, — besides the burgh 
of Dumbarton, which possesses extensive property within the parish. 
The annual value of real property, asassessed in 1815, was L. 4695 
Sterling. 

In 1831, there were 804 families in the parish; 367 inhabited 
houses, and 6 uninhabited. 

The English language is pretty generally spoken. A conside- 
rable number of Highlanders reside in the parish ; but, with a few 
exceptions, they are all able to converse in the English language. 
A considerable quantity of game is destroyed by poachers ; but 
the salmon-fishings are not muth poached, as the tacksmen are 
almost constantly on the spot. Illicit distillation was, some years 

* All the statements made as to population arc according to the census of 1831, 
unles where specially excepted. 



10 



DUMBARTONSHIRE. 



ago, carried on to a considerable extent, but the trade is now quite 
unknown. A large pawnbroking establishment was carried on a 
few years ago ; in the winter of 1835, the premises were burnt to 
the ground, and, since that time, the trade has been carried on, on 
a very small scale. 

IV. — Industry. 
In 1831, there were 71 persons employed in agriculture ; 12 of 

these were occupatits employing labourers, 13 occupants not em- 
ploying labourers, and the remaining 46 were labourers. In the 
same year, there were 81 males employed in manufactures ; 405 
in retail trade or in handicraft ; 56 under the class of wholesale 
merchants, professional persons, &c. ; 130 labourers employed in 
labour not agricultural. 

Agriculture. — The system of farming pursued in the parish is 
in noways different from that pursued in other parts of Scotland. 
The fiar prices for the last seven years were as follows : — 



Wheat, 

Oats, 

Bear, 

Barley, 

Peas & 

Beans, 



1831.' 



L. s. d. 
2 13 11 
I 1 1 
1 10 10 
I 13 0\ 

1 14 lOi 



18327 



L. s. d. 
1 11 1 

18 7 

1 7 5J 
I 9 104 



1^55: 



1834. . 1835. 1836. 



L. s. d L. s. d 
1 16 52 8 6 



L. 8. d. L. s. d 

2 7 9 1 19 9 

19 141 31 91 5 3 

1 5 9J1 3 10,1 3 li;i 7 b 



1 8 641 8 M 7 



I 11 441 11 041 12 1 13 



1 10 



2 4 6 



1837. 



L. s. d 

2 8 fc 

1 g 

1 7 S 

I 10 3 

I 16 10 



Wages, — Farm-servants generally get L. 12. Sterling of wages 
per annum. Agricultural labourers get the following rates of 
wages: — Is. 6d., Is. 8d., Is. lOd., Ls. lid., 2s., 2s. 2d., and 2s. 
4d. Sterling per diem ; the average rate is 10s. a-\^eek. 

Rent of Land. — The farms in this parish are usually let on 
leases of nineteen years. The usual rent of land is L. 2, 10s. 
Sterling an acre, and some even is let as low as L. 2. The real 
rent of the parish is about L. 8400. 

Fisheries. — The burgh of Dumbarton possesses the right of 

fishing salmon in the river Leven, and also in the Clyde, from 

the Castle of Dumbarton to the mouth of Lochlong. The rents 

vary very much. The right of fishing in the Leven is at present 

let at L. 281 Sterling a-year. The Clyde fishings in 1836 were 

let for about L. 58. 

V. — Parochial Economv. 
The only town in the parish is Dumbarton, a royal burgh, the 

chief town of the county of Dumbarton,' and the seat of presby- 
tery. The town is situated on the west bank of the river Leven, 
not very far from its junction with the Clyde. It consists of one 



DUMBARTON. 1 1 

tolerably well built street in the shape of a crescent, and several 
other smaller streets. The houses are generally closely built to- 
gether, and many of them very ill-aired. Thp principal street is 
kept Tery clean, and well paved, and has for some time been light- 
ed with gas. In 1831, the population was about 3300, but 
since that time it has decreased considerably. The affairs of 
the burgh are managed by a provost, two bailies, a dean of 
Guild, a treasurer, and ten councillors. Before the Reform Act 
passed, the council was divided into two classes , merchant and 
trades^ councillors ; but since the passing of that act, the distinc- 
tion has been abolished. The bailies are empowered to hold 
Courts for the administration of justice, but they do not hold them 
at any stated period, and they sit when business requires their 
attendance. The Sheriff of the county holds regular Courts in 
Session time every Thursday for the Sheriff Court processes, and 
commissary causes, and on every second Thursday for small debt 
causes. The business in these courts has fallen off very much of 
late years. 

Manufactures. — Previous to the year 1831, a considerable trade 
was carried on in the town of Dumbarton. A very extensive crown- 
glass and bottle-work was then in full operation. At the time 
when the old Statistical Account of the parish was published, 
there were about 130 individuals employed in these works, and 
the amount per annum of duties paid to Government was L. 3800 
Sterling.* Some years after that, the number of workmen was 
about 300, and the quantity of coal consCimed per annum was 
about 17,000 tons. The largest sum of money ever paid by the 
company to Government for duties was L. 119,000 Sterling : this 
was in 1818. The duties never afterwards amounted to so large 
a sum. When these works were in operation, there were about 
2000 tons of shipping belonging to Dumbarton. The number of 
vessels now belonging to the port is about 40, — containing in all 
about 1212 tons burthen. The glass-works are to be exposed to 
sale, in a short time, when it is expected that they will be sold, 
and that trade will again revive.f 

At high water, the river Leven is navigable for large vessels up 
to the quay of Dumbarton ; but at very low tides none can come 
up, unless of a small size. This is partly owing to a bar across the 
mouth of the river at Dumbarton Castle, and partly owing to seve- 

• Stat. Account, Vol. iv. page 23. 

t Since the above was written, the Glass-works have been sold, and arc going on in 
a nourishing manner. 



12 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

ral sand- banks above that These, for a small sum, and with no 
great labour, could be easily removed. There are two shipbuild- 
ing yards on the Leven, (one of them in the parish of Cardross), 
which employ a number of men, and where some beautiful vessels 
have been built, and are still in progress of building. A-small trade 
in tanning and rope-spinning is carried on; and there is one brick 
field in the parish. 

Means of Communication. — The town of Dumbarton is distant 
from Glasgow about fifteen miles, and from Greenock about seven. 
There are two steamers belonging to a company in Dumbarton, 
which sail to and from each of these places twice a day. Letters 
are sent also twice a day from Dumbarton to Glasgow, and vice 
versa. There is also a daily communication with Helensburgh, 
Luss, and Drymen. In summer, a coach starts every lawful morning 
at nine o'clock for Balloch, with passengers for the Lochlomond 
steam-boat, and returns to town again in the evening, in time for 
the steamer which goes to Glasgow. An elegant bridge, 300 feet 
in length, consisting of five arches, was built across the Leven about 
the year 1765 ; it was erected at the expense of Government, and 
cost L. 2.500 Sterling ; about L. 150 have been expended on re- 
pairing it since that time. About eighty-five years prior to the 
erection of the bridge, an attempt was made to erect one, and a 
subscription for that purpose was commenced, but to no purpose. 

The greater part of the fences consist of thorn hedges, which 
thrive remarkably well, and are generally neatly and trimly kept. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is very conveniently 
situated for the great majority of the inhabitants. It stands in the 
east end of the town of Dumbarton. The nearest boundary of 
the parish is distant from it about fifty yards, and the farthest from 
six to eight miles. There are about eight inhabited dwelling-houses, 
distant from the church more than two miles, and none farther 
than three miles. There are sittings in the church for 1265 per- 
sons ; of these sittings about 90 are free. The average num- 
ber of individuals attending the parish church throughout the year, 
is 900 ; with the exception of about 50, who come, from some of 
the neighbouring parishes, they all belong to the parish of Dum- 
barton. The minister of the parish only got a manse about the 
end of 1837, but has not yet got a glebe. 

There is a missionary in the town, who is supported by a sum rais- 
ed by subscription ; the salary is L. 52 a year. There are two Dis- 
senting places of worship in the parish, the one a Roman Catholic, 



DUMBARTON. 13 

the Other a United Secession, Chapel. Neither of these are endowed, 
the clergj-men being supported by the seat rents alone. The Ro- 
man Catholic clergyman is provided with a house, the other clergy- 
man is not. The Dumbarton Roman Catholic Chapel is within 
the diocese of the Bishop of Glasgow. The Baptists have a place 
of meeting, — a small room in the town ; tliey are by no means 
numerous. The following will give a tolerably correct state- 
ment of the religious persuasions of the people of Dumbarton, as 
ascertained in 1837: Of the Established Church, 2311 ; Episco- 
palians, 35 ; Independents, 8 ; Roman Catholics, 284; Relief, 
262 ; United Secession, 1 13 ; Baptists, 30 ; Cameronians, 9 ; Se- 
ceders, 26 ; Unitarians, 5 ; number of persons of no religious per- 
suasion, 33; total, 3116. There are several Sunday evening 
schools in the parish. There is also a Society for the Diffusion of 
Missionary Intelligence, which meets regularly once a month. 

Education. — There are seven schools in the parish, exclusive of 
the parochial school. Four of these are taught by male teachers, 
the others by females. The parochial teacher has a salary of 
L 40 Sterling per annum, which is paid by the magistrates of the 
bui^h. The amount of his school fees cannot be ascertain- 
ed. The other teachers depend on school fees alone. At the 
half yearly examination of the public school in February 1838, the 
branches of education taught, and the number of pupils learning 
each branch, were as follows: Greek, 3; Latin, 12; French, 6 ; 
English reading, 161; English grammar, 49; mathematics, 3; 
geography, 22; arithmetic, 78; writing, 96; drawing, 1. Se- 
veral years ago, the public school was taught by three masters, 
one taught the Greek, Latin, and French languages, another 
taught English grammar, &c. and the third taught writing, arith- 
metic, book-keeping, &c. Since 1833, one master manages the 
three departments. It is much to be regretted that classical learn- 
ing is very much neglected now. Not quite twenty years ago, the 
master of the classical department was able to live comfortably on 
his school fees, from the number that attended his classes. Now, 
there are only three Greek, and twelve Latin scholars, making a 
total of fifteen ! 

Literature — There is a public library in the parish, which was 
instituted in 1797: it contains nearly 2000 volumes, — among 
which are some good standard works. The " Dumbarton Sabbath 
Evening School" has about 600 volumes, which are lent out to 
the scholars. The scholars of the public school have also a small 



14 DL'MBARTONSHIUE. 

library, — which now consists of nearly 300 volumes. The Oon- 
servative and Liberal parties each support a reading-room in Dum- 
barton. 

Friendly Societies. — There are four Friendly Societies in the 
parish, which were instituted for the purpose of assisting the mem- 
bers in time of distress. All members contributing regularly to 
these societies are entitled to a weekly allowance when unable to 
work. There is also a Society for the relief of indigent old men 
and women, which has already done much good. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid, is about 70. The amount of collections 
at the church door, each Sunday, is generally about L. 1. The 
proprietors in the parish are assessed for the support of the poor, 
but only within the last four years. The average amount of the 
assessment is about L. 300 Sterling. The amount of extraordinary 
collections in the parish church during the last two years was as 
follows: in 1837, L. 82, 17s. 9d., and in 1838, L. 59, Os. 6d. 
Sterling. 

Fairs. — There is only one fair held within the parish. It is 
held annually on the second Tuesday of August, on a common, 
close to the town ; the business transacted there is of no great ex- 
tent 

Inns and Ale-houses. — There are two good inns in Dumbarton, 
which are well filled, in summer, by travellers going to, and return- 
ing from, Lochlomond. The number of ale-houses yearly licens- 
ed is from 40 to 50. 

Fuel. — Coal is almost the only fuel used, and is all brought from 
Glasgow. A small quantity of peats is used by the poor. 

February 1839. 



PARISH OF OLD KILPATRICK. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. MATTHEW BARCLAY, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The name of the parish is compounded of Gi7, the 
Gaelic word for a church, and the name of the patron saint of 
Ireland. Tradition says that he was born in this parish. This is 
doubted ; but still it must be confessed, that, if this be not the birth- 
place of Saint Patrick, it is difficult to account for the name of the 
parish, and for many traditions in regard to his character and 
doings, which have been handed down for generations in the 
neighbourhood. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is about 8 miles long, 
and its greatest breadth is from 4 to 5 miles. Its figure is trian- 
gular, with the base resting on the Clyde. It contains about 18 
square miles. It is bounded on the south, by the river Clyde ; on 
the west, by the parish of Dumbarton ; on the north, by Dumbar- 
ton, Killearn, and New Kilpatrick ; on the east, by New Kilpa- 
trick and Renfrew. On the opposite side of the Clyde are Ren- 
frew, Inchinnan, and Erskine. 

Topographical Appearances. — The parish is situated on the 
banks of the Clyde ; and although this river is celebrated for the 
beauty and the diversity of its scenery, it may be affirmed that 
there is no part of the scenery of the Clyde which excels that of 
Old Kilpatrick. In sailing down the river as we pass Renfrew 
Ferry, near which the parish begins, at the village of Yoker, the 
country is flat and well cultivated, having all the appearance of 
land that will repay the skill and the toil of the husbandman. At this 
part, the whole breadth of the parish is seen rising with a gentle 
slope to the upper boundary. As we proceed down the river, the 
part in view is still fertile and well cultivated, but begins to be 
narrowed by the enclosing hills, so that by the time the navigator 
sweeps past the parish church and the village of Old Kilpatrick, the 
base of the hills comes nearly to the water's edge. At the part 



\6 DUMBARTONSHIRE, 

of the parish ferthest down the river, it opens up again into a plain 
of considerable extent 

The view all the way down is exceedingly diversified. The 
first public work which we pass is Dalmuir-shore Soda Work, on 
the brink of the river, which, with its furnaces and chimnies, and 
burnt rubbish, but ill acords with the scene around. Farther down, 
and about half a mile from the river, are Dalmuir paper-works, 
which rather add variety to the prospect than diminish its 
beauty. Farther on still, we see up the glen of Duntocher, at the 
head of which stand those huge cotton-works, part of which is seen, 
which give employment to thousands who live in the villages, lying 
concealed from the view. When we come to Erskine Ferry, 
the bend of the river is one of the finest which can be imagined. 
On the left are Lord Blantyre's house and grounds in the parish of 
Erskine, and on the right is the village of Old Kilpatrick, with its 
church and its tower, and its white-washed houses, which are situated 
at the bottom of the Kilpatrick braes, rising to the height of about 
1200 feet above the level of the sea. On the sides, on one part are 
well cultivated fields, and rich crops ; on another, fine growing planta- 
tions, and on others, rocks and copsewood. The summit also is now 
smooth, now rugged, now planted, and now abrupt and broken. The 
bend of the river extends as far down as Dunglass Castle, about two 
miles and a-half, and is varied all the way in the most beautiful 
manner. After passing the village, the house of Glenarbuck is 
seen imbedded in trees, giving the idea of all that is peaceful and 
sheltered, and retired ; and then not far ofi* at the river's edge, is 
Bowling Bay, at the mouth of the Forth and Clyde Canal, with 
its basin and docks, and all the bustle of merchandize and ship- 
building. Beyond this, rise in great beauty the hills and the woods 
of Auchentorlie. To complete the view, there is often a multi- 
tude of vessels in sight ; the ferry-boat crossing with its load of 
carts or carriages, and live-stock of all kinds, — the gay steamer 
with decks cruwded, flags flying, and band of music playing, the 
powerful Tug with her steam and smoke, dragging her half dozen of 
vessels, with yard and sail, some of which have probably come 
from the most distant parts of the world ; and sailing vessels of 
all descriptions, making their way up or down, as wind and tide 
will serve their purpose. 

On the public road, there are two views which have been long 
celebrated, — the one from Dalnotter Hill, and the other from the 



OLD KILPATRICK. J? 

Chapel Hill, — the one a quarter of a mile before entering Old 
Kilpatrick village, and the other a quarter of a mile after leaving 
iu But to leave the public road, and ascend the hills, adds greatly 
to the magnificence of the sight Within five minutes' walk from 
the Tillage, and with no great exertion in the ascent, the whole 
length and breadth of Renfrewshire is spread before you. As- 
cending higher still, the prospect extends, and opens Up to view a 
large part of Lanarkshire, with Tintock as a termination. Again, 
if we proceed across the braes, about four or five miles from the 
Clyde, we come to a round hill named Duncomb, from which, 
owing to a low part on the ridge of the Kilpatrick hills, a mag- 
nificent scene is seen to the south, and east and west ; while, to 
the north, Benlomond and his brother mountains are fiill in view, 
and Lochlomond with its islands is spread before us. This is a 
>iew which is not much known, but may be ranked among the 
fine views of Scotland. From one part of the Kilpatrick braes, 
Ailsa Craig may be seen. It may also be remarked, that the 
abrupt and rocky hill Dumbuck, makes a beautiful termination to 
the range at the western extremit}'. 

Hydrography. — The parish abounds with excellent springs of 

water. There are two lochs in the high part, behind the ridge 

of the Kilpatrick braes, which supply the principal stream in the 

parish, which passes Faifley* and Duntocher, and falls into the 

Clyde at Dalmuir. This stream, from the many falls in its 

course, and excellent situations for dams, might move machinery 

to any extent ; but, owing to differences of opinion among the 

proprietors, it has never been made available to the extent of its 

power. Most of the work of this kind on its banks is done by 

the power of the steam-engine. There is no other stream in the 

parish which is of much consequence in this way. 

Geology. — The geology of this parish is the same in its general 
features as that of New Kilpatrick. The whole is of the coal forma- 
tion, and the hills, which rise through or are superimposed, afj'J 
which so beautify the district, are of the trap formation. The rocks 
are principally greenstone, amygdaloid, trap-tuffa, wacke, and basalt 
Although there are no basaltic pillars to equal those of Staffa, or 
the Giants' Causeway, yet there are some so regular and perpen- 
dicular, as to give a pleasing variety to the scene. In the Auch- 
eiitorlie and Glenarbuck grounds, there are rocks of this descrip- 
tion, which form precipices so abrupt and high, as to require the 

DUMBARTON. B 



18 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

practised eye of the mountaineer, or of the enthusiastic geologist, 
to overlook the brink without a shudderl It is these which form 
the deep chasms in the hills, which give their romantic character 
to these beautiful spots, and which cause the Kilpatrick braes to 
impress the most untaught in the beauties of nature with feelings 
of admiration. Any organic remains which have been discovered 
are principally of the vegetable kind. There are also strata of 
clay and iron-ore. 

It may be here mentioned, that lately, at Dalmuir, a bed of 
shells was discovered in a section of the sand deposit, which is to 
be found in many places in this district of country. This disco- 
very was made in consequence of making some alteration in the 
course of the Dalmuir Burn. A full account of the whole matter 
is published in Vol. i. page 131, of the Records of General Sci- 
ence. The communication is made by Mr Thomas Thomson, 
son of Dr Thomson of Glasgow. He says, ** The locality in 
which the fossils are exposed is situated on the banks of the 
Dalmuir Burn, about 100 yards above the bridge, by which the 
road from Glasgow to Dumbarton crosses it, and about a mile 
from the Clyde. The current of the stream is not very rapid, so 
that the bed of shells is probably not more than 20 feet above 
the level of the Clyde, which at that place is sensibly salt at high 
water. The breadth of the channel of the stream is about 14 
feet, and the depth of the banks about 2^ feet. The sandy de- 
posit appears to extend on both sides of the stream upwards and 
downwards, without alteration, but the fossils are con6ned to a 
circular, or rather elliptical space, the breadth of which (across 
the stream) is about 25 feet, while its length is only about 15 
feet The deposit extends from each bank only about 6 feet, so 
that more than one-half of the whole mass has been cut away 
during the change of the course of the rivulet. The whole depth 
of the bed, as it exists at present, is about 2^ feet ; but I am in- 
formed by the overseer upon the estate, who superintended the 
workmen during their operations, that after the soil had been re- 
moved, 10 or 12 feet of earth full of sand was carried away, so 
that the depth of the bed in its original state, must have been 12 
or 14 feet" 

" The number of species which have been already collected 
amount to about 30." The names are given in the Journal. 
Mr Thomson again says, " The shells which have been found 

d 



OLD KILPATKICK. 19 

in the Dalmuir sand liave in general lost all colour^ and become 
of a dull yellowish white, but otherwise, though brittle, they are 
in a state of beautiful preservation. They appear to be all na- 
tives of the British seas, with the exception of the F. lamellosus^ 
which has only been observed about the Straits of Magellan, and 
Nautica glaucvwides^ which is a crag fossil." And again, ** The 
shells which have been assembled in this confined s|)ot, and bu- 
ried in sand in this extraordinary manner, appear to have been 
collected from very diflerent situations. The Nucula minutOj and 
the f^elutina^ inhabit deep water ; the Buccina and the Astarte fre- 
quent the sands about low water, in which the My a truncata and 
the Cardium edule bury themselves; while the Mytilus and the 
Modiola attach themselves to rocks in deep water, and the LittO' 
rina (and probably the Natica) frequent those rocks which are 
alternately covered and laid bare by the ebbing and flowing of the 
tide.''' And again, ^' It is remarkable, and is a circumstance which 
adds to the extraordinary nature of this deposit, that the sand in 
the immediate neighbourhood of the fossils is quite destitute of 
any traces of shells. Few of the shells which it contains have 
been previously found fossil, and therefore it appears probable, 
that, if not considered as belonging to the recent period, it must 
be referred to a very late tertiary era, at a time when all the low- 
lands on the banks of the Clyde, at least as far up as Glasgow, 
have been covered by an arm of the sea." 

Mineralogy. — The mineralogy, as well as the geology of this 
parish, is full of interest. A great variety of zeolites have been 
found. The different species are, Prchnite, Stilbite, Heulandite, 
Thomsonite, Laumonite, Cross-stone, both single and crossed ; 
Analcime and Mesotype. Of these, beautiful specimens have been 
collected. The Hunterian Museum has been enriched with a 
splendid collection of these treasures of the rock, which were pre- 
sented by Dr William Couper, Professor of Natural History in 
Glasgow College. The Doctor continues to make an annual per- 
ambulation of these hills with his geological pupils, as affording 
the most interesting field of observation in the neighbourhood of 
Glasgow. There are two quarries of whinstone, which are wrought 
for providing metal for the roads, out of which these different 
species of minerals are still obtained from time to time. The one 
is about half a mile behind the village of Old Kilpatrick, and the 
other is on the side of the public road from Glasgow to Dumbar- 
ton, about a quarter of a mile below Bowling Inn. 



20 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Soil — The soil consists of diluvial deposit, in general dry with 
a gravelly bottom ; but in some places on the banks of the Clyde, 
especially at the part farthest down the river, it is fine deep loam 
with clay bottom. The rising grounds are so situated as to show 
that the deluge which caused their formation must have been 
from north-west to south-east 

Mines. — There are mines of coal and lime in the neighbourhood 
of Dun tocher. The shafts are from 120 to 200 feet deep. These 
mines contain ironstone, limestone, coal, and pyrites. The ironstone 
varies in thickness. The limestone and coal are regular; the coal 
is about 4^ to 5 feet thick, and the limestone, which lies immediate- 
ly above it, is about the same. It is expected that seams of coal 
will be found lower down, but no search has been hitherto made 
for them. I'he coal, in burning, cakes like the Newcastle coal 

Zoology » — The game in the parish are hares, pheasants, par- 
tridges, red grouse and black grouse. Besides these, there are 
roe-deer in Lord Blantyre^s woods on the hills. There are foxes, 
too, which sometimes do considerable damage on the sheep farms. 

The parish is not remarkable for breeding any species of cattle. 

Botany, — There are no rare plants. The soil is congenial to 
all sorts of forest and fruit trees. Oaks, ashes, elms, beeches, 
planes, limes, and fir-trees, of various kinds are growing, both in 
the upper and lower parts, with great luxuriance. Many of them 
are of a great size, and must be of a great age, and are still fresh 
and vigorous. Fruit trees also grow well. They have not been 
much cultivated, but, from the appearance of those which have 
been planted, there seems to be nothing in the soil or subsoil to 
prevent them from growing to any size, and bearing fruit to any 
age, to which fruit trees in this country can attain. 

II. — Civil History. 
Antiquities. — It is well known that the Roman wall between the 
Forth and Clyde terminated in this parish. It was begun by Agri- 
cola, and completed by Antoninus Pius, and is generally called 
Graham's dike, from a tradition that a Scottish warrior of this 
name first broke over it. All vestiges of the wall within the parish 
have disappeared ; but the fossa which ran parallel to it may still 
be traced in several places, particularly on the farm of Carleith, 
and in a field near the Cleddin burn. The very accurate survey 
made by General Roy in 1755, and published by the Antiquarian 
Society in 1793 ; and the earlier but careful remarks of Gordon, 
Stukely, Horsley, and Maitland, enable the antiquary to trace the 



OLD KILPATRICK. 21 

line with tolerable accuracy. The progress of agricultural im- 
provement, and, as a consequence, the obliterating of such remains 
of antiquity, within the last fifty or sixty years, have been so great, 
that without the assistance afforded by the works of these zealous 
investigators, it would be impossible to trace this mark of Roman 
conquest. Nor is it wonderful that a bulwark of turf should have 
disappeared after the lapse of seventeen centuries. 

The termination of the wall was at one time understood to have 
been at Dunglass, bujt it is now generally agreed to have been at 
the Chapel Hill, a short distance from the parish church. Two 
sculptural stones with the usual inscription, containing the number 
of the legion, and the amount of labour performed in the construc- 
tion of the wall, were found there, and presented by Hamilton of 
Orbiston (to whom this property and the neighbouring estate of 
Erskine belonged) in 1695 to the College of Glasgow ; and another 
also discovered there, was presented soon after by the Marquis of 
Montrose to the same learned body. The workmen employed 
in digging the canal in 1790, which passes at the bottom of the 
Chapel Hill, found, in a subterraneous recess, vases and Roman 
coins ; and there is little doubt, that more careful research might 
bring to light more of these interesting monuments. 

At Duntocher there is a bridge called Roman, but it is consi- 
dered by some of the best antiquarians,* to have no greater claim 
to such high antiquity, than that the materials may have been af- 
forded by the neighbouring fort. Others, however, are inclined 
to support the antiquity of the bridge. Its appearance is much 
in favour of an ancient datie. Beside it, there is a stone with an 
inscription, bearing that the bridge was repaired in 1772 by Lord 
Blantyre, and also stating that it was built in the reign of Hadrian, 
which proves what was the current opinion at the time of erecting 
the stone. 

The lines of the Roman fort at Duntocher can now with difficulty 
be traced. A stone similar to those found at the Chapel hill, 
but more elegant in design and execution, was discovered here. 
It stood in Gordon's time on the gate of Cochno, but was soon 
after given by the proprietor, Mr Hamilton of Barnes, to the Glas-* 
gow College. Engravings of these stones will be found in Gordon's 
Itinerarium. The Collie of Glasgow engraved a series of similar 
monuments found along this line of frontier, but for their own use 
exclusively. 

* Roy*s Military Antiquities page 158. 



22 DUMBARTONSHIUB. 

A subterraneous buildiug, supposed by some to have been a #u« 
dorium, or hot-bath, and by others a place for holding grain, was 
accidentally discovered in 1775, in the same hill on which the 
fort was situated. The cavity had two circular chambers, sur- 
rounded with a wall of hewn stone. The whole was covered over 
with tiles to support about two feet depth of earth above. Some 
husks of grain were found in the place. Now, there is nothing to 
mark the excavation, but a small sinking in the surface above where 
the cavity was situated. 

A Roman altar without any inscription was found in a field in 
the neighbourhood ; and now ornaments the gable of the miller's 
house at Duntocher mill. Roman querns have often been found 
in the adjacent places. One was found in digging the foundation of 
a new church in connection with the Establishment, which is now 
erecting on the side of this hill, where the Roman invaders of our 
country had their fort and reared their altars to their idol gods. 
A Roman vase was found in one of the fields of Auchintoshan 
estate, the property of John Cross Buchanan, Esq. 

About a furlong to the north of Duntocher, on the property of 
James Hamilton, Esq. of Barnes, there are two artificial tumuli^ 
described by Horsley (Britannica Romana, page 164.) 

There are distinct vestiges of hill-forts on several of the neigh- 
bouring heights, particularly on one called the Round Hill, and 
another in the grounds of Auchentorlie. 

Dunglass Castle, on the edge of the Clyde, was the messuage of 
the barony of Colquhoun. The writer of the former Statistical 
Account of this parish, misled by Pennant, confounds this Dun- 
glass with another more important place of the same name, in Ber- 
wickshire, where Lord Haddington and many gentlemen of qua- 
lity were blown up in 1640. This obvious mistake has been 
transferred by Chalmers to the pages of his Caledonia, Vol. iii. p. 
865. 

In the church-yard, there is a monumental stone, to which tra- 
dition has affixed the name of Saint Patrick. It is, however, the 
sculptured effigy of an armed knight, and, from the style of execu- 
tion, of the fourteenth century. It has no inscription, but it may 
be very plausibly assigned to some one of the knightly race of Col- 
quhoun. 

In the garden at Mount Blow, the residence of William Dunn, 
Esq. there is a monumental cross. It is of the style so prevalent 



OLD KILPATRICK. 23 

in the west of Scotland, especially in Cantyre and the Hebrides, 
and of the twelfth century. But as this cross (as mentioned in the 
former Statistical Account) was then used for a foot bridge, one 
side is completely dis6gured, and the other very much injured. 
There has been an inscription, but two side figures and a running 
ornament are all that now can be perceived. There is a similar 
cross at Barrochan, in the parish of Kilallan, which has been en- 
graved in Hamilton of Wishaw's description of Renfrewshire. 

Land'Ovmers, — The chief land-owners are, Lord Blantyre; Wil- 
liam Dunn, Esq. of Duntocher ; James Hamilton, Esq. of Barnes ; 
Andrew Buchanan, Esq. of Auchentorlie ; Colonel Geils of Dum- 
buck ; W. C. Stirling, Esq. of Edinbarnet ; John Cross Buchan<- 
an, Esq. of Auchintoshan ; Alexander Campbell, Esq. of Barn- 
hill ; Robert Glasgow, Esq. of Glenarbuck. 

Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers for marriages and 
baptisms begin at 1688, and are regularly kept ; but, from decay, 
are imperfect till 1 740. The registry of baptisms does not, how- 
ever, shew the number of births, as the Dissenters do not register 
their childrens' names. 

Kilpatrickf a Burgh cf Barony. — Why the use of the privileges 
of being a burgh of barony should have ceased, it is difficult to 
say, as there is as much need as ever for bailies and their officers 
to restrain the bad, and encourage the good. The jail is still 
standing with its iron bars on the windows, and its door well stud- 
ded with nails, but it is now used as a private dwelling. A bur- 
gess-ticket, dated 13th day of October 1760, states that Kilpa- 
trick is a burgh of barony, in virtue of a charter under the Great 
Seal, dated 27th January 1679; It declares that the village of 
Kilpatrick is to be the head burgh of barony, with power to name 
bailies, to create and admit burgesses, in and to all the freedoms, 
liberties, and immunities allowed by law, and known to appertain 
to any sick burgh within the kingdom. 

III. — Population. 

In 1755, the parish is said to have contained 1281 souls. 

At the tlHte of the last Statistical Account, 2452 

In 1811, 1595 males and 1833 females, in all 34:28 

In 1821, 2007 moles and 1685 females, in all 3092 

In 1831, 2820 males and 3059 females, in all 5879 

The cause of so vast an increase is the erection of so many pub- 
lic works, especially the cotton spinning and power-loom weaving 
factories at Duntocher and Faifley. 

Most of the chief heritors are resident, with the exception of 



24 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Lord Blantyre, whose seat in this neighbourhood is in the adjoin- 
ing parish of Erskine. 

Habits of the People. — The habits of the people in food ami 
dress are like those of the rest of the west of Scotland. Oatmeal 
and potatoes^ with a portion of butcher-meat, is the staple of those 
employed in out-door work. A good deal of wheaten bread is also 
used ; but the workers in the factories having hard labour within 
doors, and having better wages, both require and obtain a diet 
more approaching to the luxuries of life, than that of those whose 
lot it is to enjoy fresh air, and to be able to use and' enjoy a coarser 
food. Tea is a universal beverage with all classes. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The exact number of acres in the parish has not 
been ascertained ; but the following statement may be considered 
as an approximation sufficiently near the truth, for the purposes of 
a work of this kind : 

Anibley - 5915 acres. 

Pasture, - 4940 

Wood, - 572 



Total, 11427 imperial measure. 

The valued rental is L. 4441, Ids. 8d. The real rental may 
be estimated at about L. 12,500. 

Rent of Land. — The rent of arable land is in some cases as high 
as L. 3 per acre, and in others as low as L. 1. The average may 
be considered about L. 1, 15s. per imperial acre. 

The average rent of grazing for a milk cow per season is about 
L. 5, and of a sheep about 7s. 

The rate of common country labour is from Is. lOd. to 2s. per 
day. The rate for labour which requires more expertness, such 
as thrashing or mowing, is about 2s. 6d. The wages of all kinds 
of tradesmen are about the same as in Glasgow. 

The price of all country produce, and of provisions of all kinds, 
is as high as in the Glasgow market. Every article of foreign 
produce is higher ; as in all cases the expense of carriage must be 
added, and an additional profit to the retailer, who deals on a small- 
er scale than retailers in town. 

Cattle. — The draught horses are good, and of the active strong 
make of those which are now generaHy used in the west of Scot- 
land. Few are bred in the parish, but from their appearance they 
may be considered to be of the Lanarkshire breed. There are but 
few saddle-horses. 

The black-cattle, which are fattened in the grazing part of the 



OLD KILPATRICK. 23 

parish, are mostly of the Highland breed, and are bought at the 
large fairs or trysts in the country round. 

The milch cows, of which there are a great number, are of the 
Ayrshire breed. Little cheese is made, as the farmers find it more 
profitable to supply the villages of the parish, or the neighbouring 
towns, with milk and butter. Part of the milch cows are reared 
in the parish, but a great many are brought from neighbouring pa- 
rishes. Some of the farmers have been remarkably successful in 
bringing their stock to the greatest perfection, both as regards the 
symmetry of the form of the animal, and the quantity and the qua- 
lity of the produce* The butter of one of the dairy farms is so 
well known in the Glasgow market for its excellent quality, that 
it brings regularly ten per cent, more than the ordinary price. 

The sheep which are reared and fed in the moor parts of the 
parish, are nearly all of the black- faced kind. 

The leases of land are in general for nineteen years. 

The Average gross amount of Raw Produce. — This cannot be 
stated very accurately, as a number of farms have been unlet, and 
have been under a course of improvement by their proprietors. 
Some of the lands have been thrown into pasture which were cul- 
tivated before, and may soon come to be cultivated again. Some 
others have not been under a regular rotation of crops. But the 
following statement may be considered an approximation : 

985 acres oats, at 1.. 4, 1 6s. . . L. 4728 

721 do. potatoes, at L. 12, - - 8652 

264 do. turnips, nt L. 8, - - 2112 

822 do. wheat, at L 6, 10s., - 5343 

165 do. barley, at L. 5, - . 825 

985 do. hay. at L. 4, . . - - 8940 

1973 do. arable pasture, at L. 1, 158. . 3452 15 

5512 do. pasture and wood, at 68^ - 1653 12 

11427 Total, - - L. 30706 7 

Quarries and Mines. — Besides the mines of coal and limestone, 
mentioned under the head of Mineralogy, there is abundance of 
freestone and whinstone, quarries of both of which are wrought 
in different parts of the parish. 

Fisheries. — There are two fishing stations on the Clyde, but 
these are not of much value, — the one never renting more than 
L. 2 or L. 3 a-year ; the other never more than L. 6 or L. 8. 

Manufactures. — The factories of William Dunn^ Esq. for spin- 
ning and weaving cotton. — These consist of four large mills : the 
Faifley mill, the Duntocher mill, the Milton mill, and the Hard- 
gate mill, all situated within less than a mile of each other. It 
was about the year 1808) that these works were commenced. 



26 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

About that time, Mr Dunn purchased the Duntocher mill, which 
had been used. for spinning wool and fiax and cotton yarn. The 
work was then unoccupied, and the village almost deserted. Id 
two or three years after, Mr Dunn purchased the Faifley mill from 
the Faifley Spinning Company. This had been used for spinning 
cotton, but on a small scale. He next purchased in 1813 the Dalnot- 
ter Iron- Works, from Messrs Richard and Robert Dennistoun, which 
had been occupied by them, as a mill for slitting and rolling iron, 
and manufacturing implements of husbandry, nails, &c. At the 
time Mr Dunn became proprietor of the works, the whole of the 
men and women employed at them did not exceed 150. 

The Duntocher and Faifley mills were first greatly enlarged. 
The Milton mill, which was begun in 1821, was built on the site 
of the Dalnotter Iron- Works, and after this a large addition was 
made to the Faifley mill. The Hardgate mill was begun in 1831. 

These four establishments are exclusively employed in spinning 
and weaving cotton. 

The machinery now in operation is as under : mule spindles, 
66,820 ; throstle spindles, 7236 ; total spindles, 74,056 ; power- 
looms, 530. 

The quantity of cotton spun per annum is about 1,000,000 pounds 
weight ; and the yarn produced, which varies in fineness from No. 12 
to No 130, may be stated to be about 875,000. The cloths manu- 
factured are of different fabrics from 9°*^ to 20°° reed, and vary in 
breadth from 26 to 72 inches. The number of yards produced an- 
nually, may be stated to be 2,000,000. 

The machinery till lately was driven by water power. There 
were six water wheels of various dimensions employed ; but there 
has been erected a powerful steam engine at Faifley, and other 
two are in progress at Milton and Duntocher, which will be in 
operation in the course of the present summer, 1835. 

The number of persons employed in the spinning and weaving 
departments, is upwards of 1400; 256 men, earning from 10s. 
to 30s. per week; 626 women from 6s. to 10s.; 120 boys, four- 
teen years and upwards, from 5s. to 8s.; 180 boys from 11 to 14, 
from 2s. 6d. to 5s. ; 235 girls, from 2s. 6d. to 5s. ; total number 
employed 1417. 

As part of the produce of these works, Mr Dunn has acquired land- 
ed property in the parish to the extent of about 2000 acres, nearly all 
arable, and much ofitasgood land as any on the banks of the Clyde. 
He possesses also about a fourth part of undivided moor, capable 



OLD KILPATRICK. 27 

of grazing about 266 sheep. Of this estate Mr Dunn -famis 
about 1200 acres, himself. It is on his property, also, that the lime 
and coaUworks already mentioned are situated. 

The estate, although acquired at different times, lies all com- 
pactly together, extending along the banks of the Clyde for about 
two miles. It is intersected by the Glasgow and Dumbarton 
turnpike road for about two miles, nearly parallel to the Clyde, 
and in a diagonal direction by the Forth and Clyde Canal, for 
about two miles and a half. 

Besides his own works, there are on Mr Dunn's property the 
two important establishments of Dalmuir Paper- Works, and Dal- 
muir Shore Soda Works. There is a quay, also, at Dalmuir for 
loading and landing goods, which has been in existence beyond 
the memory of man. 

Besides the persons occupied in weaving and spinning, Mr Dunn 
employs about his works and on his lands, masons, wrights, coal 
and lime-workers, quarriers, brick-makers, farm-servants, and 
other labourers, to the number of 250. The total amount of 
wages which he pays in the parish is about L, 30,000 annually. 

In addition to the people employed by Mr Dunn within the 
parish, he employs in Glasgow, engineers, mechanics, iron and 
brass-founders, to the number of about 200, whose wages annually 
amount to about L. 9000. Much of the work done by these men 
is for the establishments in this parish, as they are employed in 
making spinning and weaving machinery, and steam-engines, 
partly for sale, and partly for the supply of Mr Dunn's own works. 

Mr Dunn is one of the most remarkable instances which the 
history of our country presents, of a person who has risen to great 
affluence, whose only patrimony at the first was the knowledge of 
a trade, united with great sagacity, great industry, and great per- 
severance. 

Manufactures. — Dalmuir Paper ^Works^ possessed by Edward 
Collins, Esq. All kinds of paper are manufactured here. There 
are employed at these works, 5 men, at L. 1, 2s. a- week ; 58 at 
lis. ; 91 women, at 6s. 2d. ; 17 boys, at 5s. ; 5 girls, at 4s. 6d* 
The value oF the paper manufactured annually, is about 
K 30,000. The duty paid to Government is about L. 10,000 
a-year. 

In this manufacture there has been great improvement. By 
the introduction of machinery, a much greater quantity is made 
by fewer hands. 



28 DUMBARTONSHIUE. 

Soda works, at Dalmuir Shore, possessed by Messrs Charles Todd 
and Co. — Tlie soda works were first established here by the father 
of the present Lord Dundas, under the superintendence of the 
late Earl of Dundonald, who, much to his own honour and his 
country's advantage, passed a considerable time at this place in 
scientific pursuits. His Lordship was the first who introduced 
the making of soda on a large scale, by using soap-makers' leys, 
which formerly used to be run off as waste. At the same time, 
the extended demand interested the scientific world, and induced 
the adoption of other modes for the production of this article. 

At these works, are made weekly about 30 tons sulphuric acid, 
which is wholly employed in decomposing common salt towards 
the manufacture of bleaching powder, or the chloride of lime. 
The residuum of the operation is converted into the well known 
soda of commerce, used in great quantities for domestic purposes, 
and by soap-makers, bleachers, dyers, potters, &c« 

The number of hands employed is from 80 to 100, all male 
adults, who work from six o'clock till six o'clock, and, as the ope* 
rations go on night and day, one part relieves the other. The 
average wages are about 1 Is. per week. 

As the works have not been established a sufficient length of 
time, it is impossible to speak decisively of the effects on the 
health or longevity of the workmen employed. 

Bleaching and Calico- Printing Works at Milton Field, possessed 
by Patrick Mitchell, Esq. — The number of hands employed, when 
the works are in full operation, is fronii 400 to 500. They work six 
days in the week, 10 hours a-day, with the exception of Saturday. 
On that day, all the children and mechanics, which include more 
than three-fourths of the whole, work only eight hours. The re- 
maining fourth continue the usual time. 

The men, when fully employed, can earn from L. 1, 5s. to 
L. 1, 10s. a- week; the women about 6s.; and the girls and boys 
from ds. 6d. to 5s. 6d. 

Dye-works at Cockney Field, possessed by Messrs Macdonald 
and Mackay. — The manufacture carried on here is dyeing Turkey 
red on cotton cloth, and printing the cloth which has been dyed. 

The hands employed are about 70; say 32 men, 18 women, 8 
girls from twelve to sixteen years of age, and 12 boys about the 
same age. Hours of work from six in the morning till seven in 
the evening, allowing an hour for breakfast, and an hour for dinner. 



OLD KILPATRICK. 29 

The men make about 12s. to 13s. a-week; the women 6s. to 
7s. ; and the boys and girls from ds. 6d. to 4s. 

Ship^building yard^ at Bowling j possessed by Mr David M*Gill. 
— This yard has been long in existence. The vessels built are 
sloops up to 170 tons, and vessels for the canal navigation. The 
number of hands are, 10 journeymen at L. 1, Is. a-week, and 6 
apprentices at 6s. a-week. 

Ship-building yard at Little MiUy possessed by Messrs Mills 
and Wood. — This yard has been established only since the month 
of May 1834. The kind of vessels built hitherto has been 
steam-vessels of a large class. The hands employed at present, 
April 1836, are, 31 journeymen, at L. 1, Is. a-week; 41 appren- 
tices, at 7s. ; 10 sawyers, at L. 1, Is. ; 2 labourers, at 10s. ; 4 
smiths, from 15s. to L. 1, Is. ; 6 joiners, from 15s. to 18s. 

Distilleries. — Of these there is one at Little Mill, possessed 
by Mrs McGregor. The amount of gallons yearly is about 48,21 1, 
the duty on which is L. 8035, 3s. 4d. The amount of malt con- 
sumed is 11,180 bushels, the duty on which is L. 1643, 7s. 9d. 
making a total of duty annually of L. 9678, lis. Id. There is 
another at Auchintoshan, possessed by Messrs Filshie. The total 
amount of duty is L. 3150, 10s. 8d. for last year. 

Forge at Faifleyj possessed by Mr James Marr. — The manu- 
facture here is spades and shovels. The number of hands is 27, 
of whom a few are boys. The men, when in full work, can earn 
L. 1, Is. a weeL 

Works on a Smaller Scale, — Besides the large manufacturing 
establishments, there are a few on a small scale. There is a dye- 
work at Hardgate, and several nail*works on a small scale. There 
are a few weavers employed by Glasgow and Paisley houses, and 
a good many females who work at embroidering muslin, also em- 
ployed by Paisley and Glasgow manufacturers. Indeed, this is the 
employment of most of the females who have spare time, besides 
managing thq domestic arrangements of the family. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market^Town. — The nearest market-town is Dumbarton, which 

is about a mile from one extremity of the parish, and about five 

miles from the church and manse. 

Villages. — The villages are Old Kilpatrick, Bowling, Little 
Mill, Milton, Dumbuck, Dalmuir, Dalmuir Shore, Yoker, Dun- 
tocher, Faifley, and Hardgate. 

Means of Communication. — There are carriers passing every 



30 DUMBAUTONSHIRE. 

day from Glasgow to Dumbarton, and the villages to the west. 
There is a stage-coach daily from Duntocher to Glasgow. But 
the chief means of travelling are the steam-boats on the Clyde, 
which pass up and down almost every hour of the day. Tbereare 
four stations for taking on board and landing passengers by means 
of small boats ; one at the Brick-house, one at Erskine Ferry, 
one at Bowling, and one at Dunglass. The length of the turn- 
pike roads is twelve miles, and of the statute labour roads sixteen 
miles, all in excellent repair. The Forth and Clyde canal inter- 
sects the parish for about five miles, from which the chief advan- 
tage is the bringing of coals and manure. Letters are conveyed 
by a branch of the Glasgow post-office. There is an arrival, 
morning and evening, from Glasgow, and one every evening from 
Dumbarton. There is a departure every evening for Glasgow, 
and every morning for Dumbarton. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is conveniently situat- 
ed, being about four miles from each extremity of the parish, 
lengthwise, and there are not above two houses five miles distant. 
The church was built in 1812, and is in good repair. According 
to the plan, it was to contain 790, but, in fact, there is not seat- 
room for more than 750 or 760, at eighteen inches a sitter. All the 
sittings are allocated to the heritors. The manse was built near- 
ly forty years ago, and repaired in 1829. The glebe contains 
about 8 Scotch acres, besides the garden, and may be valued at 
L. 32 per annum. The stipend was decreed at last augmentation 
(which was in 1833) to be 18 chalders, half meal and half barley. 
But the teinds were exhausted before obtaining the stipend de- 
creed. The present allocation bears 200 bolls, 5 stones, 2 lbs. 
meal, and 55 quarters, 4 bushels, 3 pecks, 1 gallon, and 1 quart 
barley, and L. 7, 1 9s. Sjd. money. This was farther reduced by 
an error discovered in one of the allocations. A surrender of the 
teinds was made in this instance, and now it stands 7 bolls, 2 
stones, 9 ^% lbs. meal, and 1 quarter, 6 bushels, 3 pecks, 1 gallon, 
I4 quarts, barley, and 5s. 7^d. money, instead of 20 bolls, 2 stones, 
2/5 lbs. meal, and 5 quarters, 3 bushels barley, and 6s. 4d. 
money. The allocation was decreed final on 26th January and 
16th February 1833, during a vacancy in the parish. If this mat- 
ter be stirred again, it is to be remarked that no allowance was 
made in the modification for the difierence between the Old Dum- 
bartonshire measure, in which the valuation was made, and the 
new measure, in which the modification was made. Thb difference 



OLD KILPATRICK. 31 

is one-eighth on every boll of meal Besides, somewhat more in 
the case of some of the farms would have been produced by a sim- 
ple surrender of the teinds than has been by the calculations which 
have been made. The stipend in 1835, as the allocation now 
stands, was L. 226, 9s. 5d., without any allowance for communion 
elements. 

Owing to the crowded sUite of the parish church, which is al- 
together too small for the population, a parish missionary has been 
employed for about two years, who regularly preaches on Sabbath, 
visits the sick, and has classes for religious instruction during the 
week. His preaching station is at Faifley. The place holds from 
200 to 250 hearers, and is generally crowded to the door. His 
salary is L. 50, and has been paid by a private individual. There 
is an additional church now building by subscription at Duntocher, 
which is to contain 800 sittings. The principal heritors, with few 
exceptions, came forward in the most liberal manner in aid of this 
undertaking. Mr Hamilton of Barnes began the subscription 
with L. 100; and it is but justice to say, that he and the ladies of 
the family are ready to promote every good work. Mr Buchanan of 
Auchintoshan subscribed L. 100, and made offer of ground for the 
building. A site offered by Mr Dunn was preferred, who sub- 
scribed Lf. 200 ; Mr Buchanan of Auchentorlie also subscribed 
L. 100. Many others contributed liberally, both heritors and other 
inhabitants. In all, about L. 900 has been subscribed, and it is 
hoped that, as much additional will be contributed as, with the aid 
of the Church Extension Fund of the General Assembly, will leave 
the church, when completed, free of debt.* 

* It must now be added, that the new church at Duntocher is finished. The cost 
of the erection, after deducting the drawback on wood and glass, was L. 1459, Is. 2d. 
The amount of contributions to meet this expenditure, including L. 300 from the 
General Assembly's Church Extension Fund, was L. 1299, 12s. 5d., leaving a defi- 
ciency of L. 159, 8s. 9d. But as it was desirable that the new church should begin 
without any incumbrance, the treasurer, who was the minister of the original parish, 
gave up his claims for the balance, so that the managers undertook their charge free 
of debt. 

The church was opened on Sabbath the 25th September 1836, and the Rev. John 
Pollock, who had been labouring in the district for more than two years as parish mis- 
sionary, was ordained the minister on the 6th of October. Mr Pollock was translated 
to Balder nock parish on the 29th of March 1838, and the Rev. V^illiam Alexander, 
who is now minister of Duntocher, was ordained to the charge in October 1898. 

The parish of Duntocher was di^oined quoad sacra from the parish of Old Kilpa. 
trick by the Assembly of 1836, The inhabited part of the parish is about a mile and 
a half in length and three quarters of a mile in breadth, and its nearest extremity is 
nearly two miles from the original parish church. From a census taken by the late 
minister, the parish was found to contain 3336 inhabitants, of whom 1604 professed 
to belong to the Established Church. With the exception of three heritors'^families, 
and three or four other families, all the population may be said to belong to die work* 



32 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

There are three Dissenting churches. One of these is of the 
Original Burgher Associate Synod, capable of containing about 550. 
The minister's stipend is L. 90, with a house, and about five or six 
acres of glebe land. One is of the Relief, capable of containing 
about 600. The minister's stipend is L. 120, with a house and 
garden. And one of the United Secession, capable of containing 
about 670. . The minister's stipend is L. 130, with a house, or an 
allowance of L. 20. The stipends are paid from seat-rents and 
collections. The names of the present incumbents, in the order 
in which the denominations have been stated, are Mr James 
Gardiner, Mr Hugh Crichton, Mr J. Russell, and all of them are 
respectable and good men. 

The number of communicants at the parish church is about 700. 
The relative number of those who profess to belong to the Es- 
tablishment, and of those who profess to belong to other denomi- 
nations, according to a census taken in spring 1836, is as under ; 
Establishment, 3349 ; Relief, 865 ; Secession, 785 ; Original 
Burgher, 272 ; Roman Catholic, 764 ; Episcopalian, 53 ; Baptist, 
l4; Methodist, 1 ; Reformed Presbyterian, 1 ; Unitarian, 1 ; In- 
dependent, 1 ; no persuasion, 17; total 6123. Total under twelve 
years of age, 1742 ; under seven years of age, 1139; total in the 
parish, 1163 families, 6123 individuals. 

It may be remarked, in order to give a full view of the church 

ing classes, The number of sittings in the church is 776, of which 712 arc let With 
the exception of about 40 all are let to parishioners, The seat rents are at very low 
rates, varying froni 28. to 45., with the exception of 62 in the front of the gaJlery, 
which are let at 10s. each. 

There is reason to bless God, that this new erection has prospered exceedingly. • It 
is difficult to say how many per»^ons who attended no church have been reclaimed. 
But from the fact of the original parish church having been gradually increasing in 
the numbers attending, and being now respectably filled, although a void was made in 
its attendance of 300 to 400 hearers, it is quite^ivithin the mark to say, that 200 at the 
least are now regular in their attendance at church, who were very seldom if ever in 
the house of God, This can be tlie more confidently affirmed, as neither the congre- 
gation in the new church, nor the increase in the old, have been lirawn from the Dis* 
senting congregations in the parish. One great advantage of increased accommoda- 
tion and low priced sittings, has been, that a much larger number of young people 
and children have been brought to both churches than before. One of the greatest 
evils of hi^h seat rents over all the country has been, that the number of seats taken, 
and the number of communicants on the roll, were nearly equal, so that no allowance 
was made for young people and children — a system fearfully calculated to increase 
the habit of forsaking the assembling in the house of God in tlie rising generation. 
Since the opening of the church 102 new members have been added to the roll of com* 
municants. Two weekly classes for religious instruction were conducted by the late 
minister, and although confined to those above 14 years of age, the one was attended 
by about 120, and the other by 70 young jpersons. The present minister is equally 
industrious in his classes, and equally successful with his predecessor. It may be 
added, that a number of families now maintain family worship, in which this duty was 
entirely neglected before the opening of the new cluirclf. — (Feb. 1839.) 



OLD KILPATRICK. 33 

accommodation, that families belonging to the Establishment in 
the village of Yoker, amounting in all to about 28 souls, attend 
in Renfrew church ; the number of whose sittings may be about 
12; that families in Miltoo and the neighbourhood belonging to 
the Establishment, amounting in all to about 80 souls, and fami- 
lies belonging to Dissenters, amounting to about 120 souls, attend 
in Dumbarton ; the sittings taken by both may be about 85. 

The sittings taken by all the Dissenters residing in the parish, 
although this has not been so accurately ascertained as could be 
wished, yet cannot amount to more at the utmost than 900. This, 
however, does not give a full view of the congregations of the 
Dissenters, as each of them have members from other parishes. 

The amount of the church-going population will then appear as 
follows : sittings in the parish church, counting them all occupied, 
750 ; attending at preaching station, 200 ; sittings at Renfrew 
about 12 ; sittings in Dumbarton parish church about 34 ; sittings 
taken by Dissenters both in the parish and at Dumbarton, about 900 ; 
say that, of the Roman Catholics there is a church attendanceon the 
average of 150, which is a large allowance ; total of sittings, 2046. 

If we double the above, this gives, according to the usual mode 
of calculation, the number of souls belonging to the families who 
attend a place of worship, which is 4092; and this leaves 2031 as 
the total number of souls belonging to families who attend no 
place of worship. This is a fearful state of things in a jcountry 
parish. If we consider the manner in which the Sabbath is spent 
by men in general, who do not attend a place of worship, and also 
the amount of the influence of their example on those who do, in 
leading them, even on a Sabbath day, to conduct themselves in a 
way inconsistent with the services in which they have been engaged, 
it is impossible to enumerate all the evils of such a state of things, 
both for time and for eternity, both for the body .and for the soul. 

On this subject one remark is obvious. If it had not been for 
the exertions of Dissenters in such a parish as this, in supplying 
the lack of the Establishment, matters would have been much 
worse. For all that they have done in stemming the torrent of 
heathenism,' they deserve the approbation of every man who is a 
lover of the Lord Jesus Christ 

Education — Schools. — The parish school is at Old Kilpatrick 
village. The endowed salary is L. 34, 4s. 4d., and the wages for 
reading are 2s. per quarter, and for reading, writing, and arith- 
metic, 2s. 6d. The wages may amount to L. 15 per annum, and 
the emoluments of the teacher, as session-clerk and treasurer to the 

DUMBxVRTON. C 



34 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

poor's fund, to L. 20 or L. 25 per annum. There are ten unendowed 
schools ; one at Moss Wallach ; one at Faifiey ; two at Duntocher ; 
two at Old Kilpatrick ; one at Dalmuir ; one at Little-mill : one at 
Milton ; and one at Kilbovne. Besides these, there are a few scholars 
taught to read by females at Duntocher and Faifley, who also teach 
them needle^work. The average number who attend the whole may 
be estimated at about 480 day-scholars, and 230 evening-scholars, 
making a total of 510. Most of the teachers can teach Latin and 
English grammar, practical geometry, and book-keeping ; but 
there are few applications for more than the usual elementary 
branches. The average fee is about ds. 6d. per quarter for read- 
ing ; ds. 6d; for reading and writing ; and 4s. for reading, writing, 
and arithmetic. There are six Sabbath schools, but these are for 
religious instruction alone. 

Literature. — There is a village library at Duntocher, of 430 
volumes, and two Sabbath school libraries, one of 110 volumes, 
and another of 230 volumes. There is a village library at Faifley of 
233 volumes, and one of the Sabbath school of 293 volumes. 
There is also a Sabbath class library at Old Kilpatrickof 150volumes. 
Friendly Society. — There is a friendly society at Duntocher and 
Faifley. The members are 208, who contribute 13s. a-year each. 
The allowance for a member who is sick, but not confined to bed, 
is 4s. 6d. a-week, and for one bedfast is 8s. After the first year, 
if the disease continue, and the man be unable to work, the allow- 
ance is 4s. 6d. a-week for life. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons on the roll 
at present, with the aliment of ea^h, is as under : 

1 at 2s. per month L. 2 

2 - 28. 6d., •- 
1 - 3s., - ' - 

1 . 4s. 6d., 
14 - 5s. 

1 - 5s. 6d.} 
15-69., 

1 . 6s. 6d., 

1-78., 

1 1 - os., - 

S . 10s., 

2 . lis., - - 
1 - 12s., 
1 - 168., - - 

I - 17s. 4d , 
1 - 408., 

65 L.22 10 10 

27 12 of the above are widows, who have 27 chll* 
— dren in all. 

Total, 92 



5 





8 





1 12 





4 


6 


3 10 





5 


6 


4 10 





6 


6 


7 





4 8 





1 10 





1 2 





12 





16 





17 


4 


2 






OLD KILPATRICK. 35 

The three who have the highest allowances are persons derange- 
ed in intellect : one of them in the Glasgow Lunatic Asylum. 

To meet the above expenditure, and other occasional expenses, 
such as coflSns for paupers, &C there is an assessment, which varies 
from L. 250 to L.dOO a-year, one-half of which is laid on the 
heritors, and the other half on tenants and householders. There 
is also between L. 30 and L. 40 collected at the church door, 
which, after some necessary expenses being deducted, is paid into 
the poor's fund. 

Houses Licensed to Retail Spirits. — There are 31 in the pa- 
rish. Three of these are toll-houses, which is contrary to ex- 
press act of Parliament, and 12 of them are in Old Kilpatrick vil- 
lage alone. 

Fuel. — Coal is the prevailing fuel. It is chiefly brought from 
the neighbourhood of Glasgow by the canal, and for the last three 
years has been sold in the parish at 5s. per 12 cwt. Besides this, 
a good deal of Mr Dunn's coal is used, which is sold at 3s. for a 
measure, which would weigh about 14 cwt. Peats are used mere- 
ly for kindling. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The changes since the former Statistical Account are very great. 

The rental then is called L. 5000. The rental now is upwards 
of L. 12,000. Indeed, there was a period during the war when it 
must have been considerably more. The total number employed 
at manufactures, was then 1043 : the number now is about 2400. 
The total population then was 2452 : the population now is up- 
wards of 6000. The smith and ir^n foundery, which employed 278 
hands, has wholly disappeared, and in place of one of its factories, 
there is one of Mr Dunn's cotton-mills, — while of another of its 
branches at Old Kilpatrick village, there are no remains. The 
wool mill, which finished 1000 yards a-day, is superseded by a mill 
for cotton. The statute labour was then L. 63, Gs. 8d : it is now 
on an average L. IQO. There was then one Dissenting church : 
there are now three. Inoculation for small pox was then generally 
practised : now it has been totally displaced by vaccination. Still 
there are a few cases now and then of natural small-pox, but gene- 
rally mild. 

Drawn up in 1836 ; Revised in February 1839, 



PARISH OF NEW OR EAST KILPATRICK. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR* 

THE REV. ANDREW SYM, D. D. MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Namcj Itc^-The two parishes of New or East, and Old or 

West Kilpatrick, occupy a large portion of that district of Scot- 
land formerly called Lennox or Levenach — the field of the Le^eii. 
The etymology of Kilpatrick is plainly the Gaelic ct7, a church 
or religious house, prefixed to the name of the patron saint of 
Ireland, to whom the church of Kilpatrick was originally dedicated* 
The tradition which points out the tombstone of this saint in the 
church-yard of Old Kilpatrick is rejected by antiquaries; but 
there is good reason to believe that he was bom in that parish, 
near the Roman fort of Duntocher, which not improbably is the 
Nemthor of the early legends of St Patrick. ♦ 

Extent and Beundarie^. — The greatest length of New Kilpatrick 
parish is 7^ imperial miles ; the mean length, 6 miles ; the great- 
est breadth is 5^, and the mean breadth S^ miles ; giving a su- 
perficial extent of 21 square miles, or 13^440 imperial acres. 
These measurements are taken from Wood's map of Dumbarton- 
shire ; but, according to the plans of the several estates, the ex- 
tent is only 12,049 imperial acres. It is bounded on the north, 
by the parishes of Strathblane and Killearn ; on the west, by Old 
Kilpatrick; on th& south, by Renfrew and Go van; and on the 
east, by the Barony of Glasgow, Cadder, and Baldernock. 

Topograpiiical Appearances. — The Kilpatrick hills or braes, 
disjoined from the Campsie Fells by a gap of three or four miles 
in width, making way for the Blane with its beautiful strath, and 
for the black-watered Allander, lie partly in the parish. These 
hills range from east to west, terminating abruptly with Dum- 
buck, near Dumbarton. Their greatest height is about 1200 feet 
above the level of the sea ; and from them the parish slopes on one 
band with a southern exposure towards the Clyde, and on another 

" Transactions of ik>ciety of Scottish Antiquaries, Vol. ii. Part i. p. 213. 



NEW KILPATRICK. 37 

towards the valley of the Allander and Kelvin in the south-east, 
the descent being broken by a succession of undulations, which di- 
minish in elevation as they approach the rivers. This undulating 
surface gives to the landscape a variegated and interesting charac- 
ter. It is thickly set with swelling knolls, generally accessible to 
the plough, and actually under cultivation, but many of them so 
steep, as to render ploughing difficult. If more of these knolls 
were wooded, it would contribute much to ornament, at no ultimate 
loss to the proprietors. 

Meteorology.-^^o register of the weather has been kept in the 
parish for many years, so that we have few meteorological obser- 
vations to record. A singular phenomenon occurred in the sum- 
mer of 1832, which was carefully investigated at the time, and the 
fact fully ascertained. On the Idth June of that year, there fell 
near Castlehill, a shower o{ Jish^ consisting chiefly of herring-fry. 
Some of them were described as being of the size of large min- 
nows ; but the largest that I saw were about two inches in length. 
Upwards of 100 were found huddled together by a road side ; 
others were probably washed away by the stream that was speedily 
formed ; and some were seen scattered over the neighbouring field. 
Three days after the occurrence I pickqd up a few. By this time 
they were much disfigured; but still it was not difficult to discover 
what they were ; and some which I saw preserved in spirits left 
no doubt of their being herring. Castlehill is three or four miles 
distant from the Clyde, from which they had probably been 
caught up by a whirlwind, and carried hither through the air. 
They fell amidst a very heavy shower of rain, accompanied with a 
peculiar rushing noise, which was heard at a considerable distance. 

Hydrography. — Dugalstone loch is a considerable sheet of wa- 
ter, of artificial collection. It lies within Dugalstone pleasure- 
grounds, and contributes much to the beauty of that once highly 
ornate, but now neglected seat. It covers 23 Scots acres. The 
pleasure grounds of Kilmardinny likewise contain a small loch, 
surrounded by trees and ornamental shrubbery ; and abounding 
in pike, eel, and perch. It contains about 8 Scots acres. St 
German's loch is somewhat larger. It is a good locality for the 
botanist, containing several nt'ater-plants not everywhere to be 
found. Germanus was the companion of St Patrick in his mission 
to Ireland ; and from him it probably is that this loch derives its 



name. * 



* Traosaettons of Society of Scottish Antifiuaries, ui tujtra^ 



38 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

The Kelvin is hardly of size enough to be dignified by the nam6 
of a river, but in Scottish dialect comes under the description of 
a toater. It rises in the parish of Kilsyth ; and after a south- 
westerly course of about 16 miles, falls into the Clyde at Partick, 
two miles below Glasgow. Through the greater part of its course 
it b a sluggish, uninteresting stream ; but on reaching Garscube 
it changes character. The current is now rapid ; the banks are 
richly wooded ; below Garscube House they are bold and preci- 
pitous ; and there are in the Lowlands few finer rivers than the 
Kelvin, as it winds through these beautiful grounds. 

The AUander is a smaller stream, but not less useful. It is 
the feeder by which the Kelvin receives the waters of the reser- 
voirs on which the great flour-mills at Partick and Garscube de- 
pend during the dry season of the year ; and before joining the 
Kelvin, it supplies the extensive machinery at Clober Bleachfield, 
and various other works. 

Geology, — Of the great coal-basin, near the centre of which 
Glasgow is situated, the Kilpatricks occupy a large part of the 
north-western quadrant ; the arch, or outer border being overlaid 
with trap, of which the hills consist. At Garscube, in the south- 
eastern corner of this pitrish, where coal is at present wrought, 
the same beds are found as at Glasgow, dipping to the south-east 
at an angle of 8°. In digging for it, the strata met with are the 
usual alternations of blaize, sandstone, clay iron ore, and grey- 
plies. A great way beneath this lies another coal bed ; the dip 
of which being in the same direction, at an angle of 14^, it ap- 
proaches the surface towards the north and north-west, and is 
wrought at Lawmuir and Castlehill, where it is found at a depth 
of about 30 fathoms. The strata met with here are successive 
alternations of blaize and ironstone, the latter from 3 to 6 inches 
in thickness ; and immediately over the coal is a valuable bed of 
limestone 3 feet thick. Farther to the north, rocks of sandstone 
and conglomerate appear ; and still farther in the same direction 
are the hills, consisting of greenstone, amygdaloid, trap-tufl^ 
wacke, and basalt, the latter of which occurs near Craigtou in a 
very perfect prismatic form. 

The Diluvial deposits are chiefly a stiflFred and bluish clay, sand 
and gravel, broken up into elongated swells. The range of these 
swells is generally from north-west to south-east; and it may be 
observed, that very frequently the north-western acclivity is abrupt, 
while in the opposite direction, it is more lengthened and gentle. 



NEW KILPATRICK. 39 

In the clay, numerous boulders occur, varying from the size of a 
pigeon's egg to many tons in weight- These boulders consist 
chiefly of the different kinds of trap ; but many, even of the largest, 
ue of granite, gneiss, and mica-slate rocks, which are not found in 
9tuBi distances of less, some of them than 25 and others 70 miles, 
in a Dorth-westerly direction. Blocks of limestone occur in like 
manner, the surfiice of which frequently presents a considerable 
degree of polish, with occasional deep irregular scratches, as if a 
heavy body had been forcibly moved over it. 

The €rgaiHe remainsy though almost exclusively confined to the 
Tq;etable kingdom, are numerous and interesting. They consist 
chiefly of plants, which are now found only in insular situations, and 
in climates approaching to tropical heat ; such as tree-ferns, gigan- 
tic equiseta, catamites and palmaceae. 

Various strata of clay-iron ore occur, alternating with sand- 
stone and blaize. One of these, which crops out on the banks of the 
Kelvin atGkirscube, was wrought some years ago, for the purpose of 
anelting : but the ore was not found in sufficient quantity, or suffi- 
ciendy rich to render the working of it profitable. 

Mineralogy. — The Kilpatrick hills present a fertile field for the 

researches of the mineralogist, containing a great variety of the 

zeolite fiunily. A splendid collection of these minerals has been 

presented to the Hunterian Museum by Dr Couper, Professor of 

Natural History in the University of Glasgow. They consist of 

prehnite, stilbite, Heulanite, Thomsonite, Laumonite ; cross-stone 

both single and crossed ; analcime, mesotype, and Eddingtonite. 

The student will nowhere find a more favourable opportunity of 

becoming acquainted with this beautiful family of minerals, than 

this collection presents. Many years ago, a vein of sulphate of 

barytes was wrought in these hills, in the expectation that lead 

might be extracted from it ; and a mine had been driven 30 yards 

into the hill-side, before those engaged in the undertaking were con- 

^ced of its futility. 

Sail — The prevailing soil is clay, over a bottom of hard and 
impracticable till. The stratum of fertile clay is generally no 
deeper than the plough goes ; and the retentive subsoil, prevent- 
ing the escape of the surface water, renders the land wet and clag- 
gy. Along the course of the Kelvin, the Allander, and some other 
streams, there are several hundred acres of deep rich loam ; and 
some knolls of sand and gravel are covered with a light dry soiL 



40 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Oil the high grounds there is a good deal of moor, bog, apdpeat^ 
moss. 

Botany. — In his Flora Glottiaua, Mr Hopkirk frequently refers 
to places in this parish as producing rare, or not very common 
plants ; among ^^hich may be noticed Achillea tamentoia ; Hiera" 
cium aurantiacum^ though probably not native ; and Ciadcuvirosay 
said to be rare in Scotland, but abundant here. To these may 
be added Pyrola seeunda, which has escaped Mr Hopkirk's obser- 
vation, but is found on the Kilpatrick hills. 

Of Forest trees the beech seems most congenial to the soil, and 
attains the greatest size. At Balvie there is an avenue of tall and 
handsome beeches, none of them remarkable for size, taken sii^- 
ly, but worthy of notice for the uniformity of height and girth of 
so great a number. A much larger than any of these grows at 
Dugalstone. At three feet from the ground, it measures 16 feet 
in circumference ; and its branches cover a space of 22 yards dia- 
meter. Other forest trees are found of considerable size, and the 
soil seems favourable to the fir tribe. A Scotch fir was recently 
cut at Garscube, which measured upwards of nine feet in girth at 
three feet from the ground, and contained 155 solid feet of tim- 
ber : and two more growing at Balvie are of nearly as large a size* 
At Dugalstone thereare man^ large and beautiful spruce and 
silver firs.* Ashes, elms imd sycamores, thrive well ; but the oak 
is preferred for new plantations, though we have none of great 
size or age. A walnut tree at Mains measures 1 1^ feet in girth* 
Zoology. — In this department we have here most of those ani- 
mals which are common to the Lowlands of Scotland, together 
with some which belong to mountainous regions. Game is abun- 
dant, yet not so much so as to injure the farmer. We are occa- 
sionally visited by the roe-deer, breaking away from his haunts in 
the woods of Buchanan. Black-game and grouse are numerous 
in the muirland parts of the parish, partridges in the fields, and 
pheasants in the plantations. The woodcock too is found, but 
more rarely. Of water-fowl we have the wild-goose and wild- 
duck, the sheldrake, widgeon, teal, and various divers. Besides 
these, under the head of game, for we do not pretend to any scien- 
tific arrangement, we have the golden and the grey plover, the cur- 
lew, land-rail and water-rail, the snipe and the heron. Of birds 
of prey we have the kite, or salmon-tailed glede, the common buz- 
zard, the white hawk, large gray hawk, the snipe and sparrow 
hawks, and what is here called the hunting-hawk. Of birds of 



NEW KILPATRICK. 41 

passage we have the common varieties of the swallow kind ; the 
king-fisher, the goatsucker, the fieldfare, and redwing. The 
missel-thrush has of late years taken up his abode with us ; the 
starling and water-ouzel are found, though not numerous* The 
goldfinch and goldeurcrested wren, the least and most beautiful 
of our Scottish birds, shall end our enumeration of the feathery race, 
for we need not notice those species that are everywhere to be 
found. There are foxes in the upper part of the parish ; but the 
fewer, that we have no fox-hunter. Of the weasel tribe we have 
the polecat, the otter, the stoat, and the common weaseL The 
pine-martin has been shot in the woods of Balvie ; and the brown 
squirrel has been seen at Garscube ; but each of them only in a 
single instance. The black-rat, as elsewhere throughout Scot- 
land, has disappeared before the large brown rat of Norway. 

II.—- Civil History. 
Date of Erection. — As a separate parish. New ICilpatrick is of 

comparatively modem date, having been disjoined from Old Kii- 

patrick in 1649. The disjunction is quoad omnia. - 

Registers. — The parochial registers are imperfect, part of them 
having been destroyed in 1797, at the first Itollotting for militia. 
On that occasion a considerable mob assembled, which was not 
dispersed till tro<^ arrived froin ""Glasgow, by whom several pri- 
soners were made.* Some of the mob having entered the school- 
master's house, seized on the register^f baptisms, and tore out a 
number of the leaves, that they might not be evidence against 
them of their liability to serve. The date of the earliest entry is 
6th January 1691 ; and from the 8th December 1755 the series is 
complete. There are two volumes of records besides those now 
in progress. 

Ministers. — The first minister of the parish, Mr Walter RoUock, 
was inducted in December 1650, and died only a month after. 
He was succeeded by Mr Robert Law, who is known as the author 
of ** Memorialls, or the memorable things that fell out within this 
island of Brittain from 1638 to 1684." Of these memorable things 
'the chief, in Mr Law's estimation, seem to have been deeds of 
witchcraft, portentous appearances, and prophetic warnings ; with 
the narration of which a great part of his volume is occupied. It 
appears from the records of the presbytery of Dumbarton, that 
Mr Law was called to be minister of the parish in 1652 ; but was 
refused induction by the presbytery, on the ground of his not being 

* Tliis affair is known by the name of the Battle of Garscube. 



42 ' DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

qualified for the ministry. He seems to have served the cure not* 
withstanding ; and in May 1654, he was, without further trials, or 
any deed of induction, received into fraternity as a member of 
Presbytery ; and his name is found in the sederttnts down to 4th 
September 1660. After the restoration he was outed for non- 
conformity ; but Mr Sharpe, his editor, in the short account of his 
life prefixed to the ** Memorialls," states that, though he did not 
subscribe the indulgence, yet he returned to his charge on the 
passing of that act ; and he quotes a minute of council, from which 
it appears that, in 1679, on the petition of Andrew Colquhoun of 
Garscadden, and Hugh Crawfurd of Cloberhill, in name of the 
people of Easter Kilpatrick, Mr Law was continued minister of 
the parish. We know not how to reconcile this statement with the 
evidence of the Presbytery records, which show that Mr William 
Duncan, a conformist, was minister of this parish from the year 
1666 to the date of the Revolution. The ministers in succession 
to him have been — Mr John Dougal, admitted 31st December 
1690, died 2dd December 1712 ; Mr John Logan, admitted 15th 
September 1715, died 18th January 1730; Mr Andrew Gray, 
admitted 18th March 1731, died 10th February 1776; Mr James 
Carrick, admitted dlst October 1776, died 2dth February 1787 ; 
Mr George Sym, admitted 20th December 1 787, died 29th May 
1835. The present incumbent was ordained assistant and succes- 
sor to his father, 27th September 1821. 

Principal Families, — At an early period the family of Galbraith 
had extensive possessions in Lennox, and William Galbraith of 
Gartconnel is noticed as a person ^' of good account" in the time 
of David IL about the middle of the fourteenth century.* Gart- 
connel is now known only as a farm belonging to Mr Gordon of 
Dugalstone ; but the site of an ancient castle or keep is still mark- 
ed out by the surrounding fosse. 

Douglas of Mains, — Janet Galbraith, daughter and co-heiress 
of James, or perhaps rather of the above William Galbraith of 
Gartconnel, married in 1373 Nicholas Douglas, fourth son of 
James, first Lord of Dalkeith, (grandson of William, Lord of 
Douglas, the companion in arms of Wallace.) By this marriage 
he acquired the estate of Mains, and other considerable posses- 
sions in Lennox ; and from him the present proprietor is descended 
in the fifteenth generation. Malcolm Douglas of Mains, the eighth 
in descent from Nicholas, is known in the History of Scotland as 

• Crawford, Peerage, p. 159, natc. 



NEW KILPATUICK. 43 

the associate of Crawford of Jordanhill in the taking of Dumbarton 
Castle in 1571 ;* and likewise as having been implicated, by the 
doubtful evidence of Edmonstone of Duntreath, in the raid of 
Ruthven, and other transactions connected with that affair; in 
consequence of which he was beheaded at Edinburgh in 1584, 
along with his father-in law, Cunningham of Drumwhassil. -f* 
This seems to be the person whom Buchanan, (Hist Lib. xx.) 
erroneously calls Robert Douglas. 

ColquhounqfGarscadden and Killermont. — This family, to whom 
nearly a third of the parish now belongs, is descended from John 
Colquhoun, second son of Robert, sixth laird of Camstradden. He 
is said to have distinguished himself in the battle of Pinkie, 1547. 
His great-grandson, William Colquhoun, writer in Glasgow, ac- 
quired the lands of Garscadden by purchase in 1655, and was 
succeeded by his eldest son Andrew, an eminent merchant in Glas- 
gow. Lawrence, second son of Andrew, purchased the estate of 
Killermont in 1746 ; and left an only child Agnes, who married 
John Campbell of Clathic in Perthshire. Their son Archibald, 
who assumed the name of Colquhoun on becoming presumptive 
heir to Garscadden, was educated for the Scottish Bar ; and rose 
to distinction in his profession, having been many years Lord Ad- 
vocate, and afterwards Lord Register of Scotland. His son, the 
present John Campbell Colquhoun, Member of Parliament for the 
Kilmarnock burghs, on the death of Miss Jean Colquhoun in 
1821, succeeded to the estate of Garscadden, and the representa- 
tion of the elder branch of the family. 

The Campbells ofSuccoth are believed to be cadets of the Ard- 
kinlas branch of the house of Argyle. They were settled in 
Dumbarton before the Union of the Crowns; and in 1616, Ro- 
bert Campbell purchased Succoth, in the parish of Cardross. 
In the reign of Charles XL John Campbell of Succoth, Director 
Depute of Chancery, acquired the estate of Garscube; since 
which time, the family have added to their possessions the estate 
of Craigton, in this parish, and various other lands in the counties 

* This was not the first time that the Castle of Dumbarton was taken by a Kil. 
Patrick laird. The lands of Balvie were formerly possessed by a family of the name 
of Logan ; and in the Privy-Seal Record, 16th July 1526, we meet with the following 
entry, which has been obligingly furnished us by John Riddell, Esq. Advocate. <^ Res. 
pette to John Logan of Balvey, Walter Galbrathe*' and others, *^ for yaire tressona. 
ble asiicging, takmg and wytholding of the King's castle and fortalice of Dumbartane, 
frae his servandis kepairs yerof^ and for uyeirs crimes, tresone, lese majesti, slachtris,** 
&c. 

f For this and some of the following genealogical notices, wc are indebted to James 
Dennistoune of Dennistoune, Esq. Advocate. 



44 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

of Lanark and Argyle. This John was the law agent of Archi* 
bald, ninth Earl of Argyle, whom he attended on the scaffold at 
his execution, and received from him a silver kylevine pen-case, 
which is preserved as an heir-loom in the £unily. * His great- 
grandson, the late Sir Islay Campbell, Bart Lord President 
of the Court of Session, has left a high name among the law au- 
thorities of Scotland, and the virtues of his private life will not 
soon be forgotten. He is thus noticed by Mr Brunton in his 
Account of the Senators of the College of Justice : <* Sir Islay 
Campbell of Succoth, Baronet, Lord President, eldest son of 
Archibald Campbell of Succoth, one of the Principal Clerks of 
Session, by Helen Wallace, heiress of Ellerslie, was admitted ad« 
vocate 11th January 1757. He obtained very extensive practice 
at the Bar, there being scarcely any cause of importance in which 
he was not engaged or consulted; and many of his written plead- 
ings are still held as perfect models of brevity, force, and elegance. 
He was nominated Solicitor- General in 1783, and was the follow- 
ing year constituted Lord Advocate, and soon after chosen repre- 
sentative for the Glasgow district of burghs to Parliament, where 
he took an active share in all the important transactions of the 
times. The University of Glasgow conferred upon him the de- 
gree of Doctor of Laws, and he held also for some time the office 
of Lord Rector. He was promoted to be President of the Court 
of Session, 14th November 1789, in the room of Sir Thomas 
Miller. He was placed at the head of the commission of Oyer 
and Terminer, issued in the year 1794, for the trial of those ac- 
cused of high treason in Scotland, at that disturbed period, and 
was highly commended by the English lawyers for the manner 
in which he acquitted himself in that capacity. He held the 
office of Lord President for upwards of nineteen years, and re- 
signed in 1808, after having discharged its arduous duties with the 
utmost ability, integrity, and zeal ; and on the 1 7th of Septem- 
ber, the same year, was created a Baronet. Being then in the 
full enjoyment of all his mental faculties, he was afterwards chosen 
to preside over two different commissions, appointed to inquire 
into the state of the Courts of Law in Scotland, which he con- 
ducted with his accustomed industry and talent. After his re- 
tirement from the Bench, he resided principally at his estate of 
Garscube, where he kept his active mind continually engaged in 

* This could not, therefore, be the kylevine pen-case which the Earl's descendant 
made use of at his interview with Jeanic Deans.— Heart of Mid- Lothian. 



NEW KILPATRICK. 45 

various pursuits connected with literature and agriculture, and in 
receiving visits from his extensive acquaintance both in England 
and Scotland. His Lordship died on the 28th of March 1823, in 
the eighty -ninth year of his age." He was succeeded in his estates 
by his son, the present Sir Archibald Campbell, Bart, who sat 
for many years as a Judge of the Courts of Session and Justiciary 
by the title of Lord Succoth, which offices he resigned in 1825. 

Glassford of Dugahtone. — The lands of Dugalstone were for- 
merly possessed by a family of the name of Graham, of the 
Knockdollan branch of the Montrose family, from whose heirs 
they were ^purchased in 1767, by John Glassford, Esq. one of the 
most eminent and respected merchants of his time. His mercan- 
tile enterprise is thus noticed by Smollett in his popular work 
Humphry Clinker, in which, under his assumed character, he 
says, " I conversed also with Mr G — ssf— d, whom I take to be 
one of the greatest merchants in Europe. In the last war, he is 
said to have had at one time five-and twenty ships, with their cargoes, 
his own property, and to have traded for above half a million Ster- 
ling a-year.*' Mr Glassford was a gentleman of enlightened un- 
derstanding and liberal mind ; of prompt judgment and active ha- 
bits, which enabled him to conduct with ease a great variety of 
affairs ; a generous patron of the arts, and a principal promoter 
of all undertakings which had the advantage of the community in 
view. He died in 1783, and was succeeded by his eldest son 
Henry, who inherited, along with the possessions, much of the 
character of his father. He represented the county of Dumbar- 
ton in part of two Parliaments ; and during the troublesome times 
that followed the first French Revolution, contributed greatly to 
the exciting and maintaining a spirit of loyalty and patriotism in 
this district. * On his death in 1819, the estate of Dugalstone 
devolved on his brother- consanguinean, the present James Glass- 
ford, Esq. Advocate, who is favourably known as author of a Trea- 
tise on the Law of Evidence, and other literary productions ; and 
more widely as one of the most efficient members of the late Irish 
Education Commission, in which capacity he distinguished him- 
self by his consistent advocacy of Protestant principles. Mr Glass- 
ford has lately transferred his right to the estate of Dugalstone to 
hb nephew and heir-apparent, Henry G. Gordon, Esq. 

* As an instance of his n^unificence, we may mention, that for many years he was 
in the habit of giving annually 150 carts of ooal to the poor of this parish, with a- 
like benefiuTtion to the parish of Baldernock. 



46 DUMBARTONSHIRE* 

Sprewl Craufurd ofCowdonhill. — The Craufurds are believed 
to have been from a very remote period in possession of the estate 
of Cloberhill ; but we have not been able to trace their history 
farther back than the beginning of last century, when it was con- 
veyed by Hugh Craufurd to John Sprewl of Cowdon» in Ren- 
frewshire, who had married his only child Isabel. This John 
Sprewl, in the year 1716, made a new deed of entail, by which he 
destined the lands of Cloberhill and Drumchapel to the heirs-male, 
and failing them, the heirs whatsomever of this marriage, binding 
them to assume the name and designation of Sprewl Craufurd of 
Cowdonhill. On his death without heirs-male, the estate de- 
volved on the issue of the marriage of his eighth daughter Agnes 

with Hunter, Esq., whose grandson, Andrew Hunter Sprewl 

Craufurd, is the present proprietor; and as he has hitherto no 
male issue, the presumptive heir is the late Chief Baron of the 
English Exchequer, Sir William Alexander, Knight, grandson 
of the eldest daughter of the entailer.* Within these few years, 
there was in the possession of this family a curious heir-loom — 
a silver spoon, the circular mouth-piece of which is not less than 
three inches in diameter. Inscribed on it are the terms of its tenure, 
according to which the title of the present holder cannot be dis- 
puted. 

** This spoon I leave Id legacy. 

To the maist mouthed Craufurd after me. 1480.** 

Of a later date are the following lines. 

** This spoon, you see, 
Is left in legacy ; 
If ony pawn't or sell*t, 
Cursed let him be.** 

The Duke of Montrose has a valuable estate in the parish, part 
of the ancient barony of Mugdock ; and the Earl of Glasgow, as 
heir-at-law to the Crawford estates, to which, however, his title 
is at present under dispute, has lately succeeded to the lands of 
Knightswood ; but it would be out of place to attempt any ac- 
count of these Noble families. 

Kilpatrick Lairds, — A century or more ago, the Kilpatrick 
lairds were noted for their convivial habits, and many anecdotes 
of their reckless revelry are current in local tradition. Their so- 
cial meetings were often prolonged for days together, with little 
intermission from hard drinking. On one of these occasions, the 
laird of Qarscadden was observed to sit very quiet for some time, 
and his countenance at length to undergo a change ; of which one 

* Sir William succeeded to the estate on the death of .Mr Crawford in 1837. 

3 



NEW KILPATRICK^: 47 

of the company took notice, saying, <* Is na Garscadden- looking 
unca gash." — " And so he may, said another, for he has beea 
with his Maker this half hour : but I did na like to disturb the 
conviviality of the company by saying ony thing about it." This 
anecdote has been introduced by Mr Gait into one of his tales, 
and is not unworthy of preservation as indicating the manners of 
the age. In latter times, the gentry of the parish have acquired 
a more honourable distinction in the profession of the law, and 
as representatives of the county. We have already noticed Sir 
Islay Campbell of Succoth, Bart and his son, Sir Archibald Camp- 
bell, as Senators of the College of Justice, and Archibald Colquhoun 
of Killermont, Esq. as Lord Advocate of Scotland. And as Mem- 
ber of Parliament we have had Henry Glassford of Dugalstone ; 
Lord Advocate Colquhoun ; the late John Campbell, younger of 
Succoth, whose early death deprived usof a much respected and very 
promising country gentleman ; and John Campbell Colquhoun of 
Garscadden and Killermont, an accomplished scholar, and an elo- 
quent advocate of education and religion. By these gentlemen 
the county of Dumbarton has been represented during more than 
twenty of the years of the present century. 

Antiquities, — To the antiquary, the parish presents little that 
is interesting, except what arises from the Wall of Antoninus^ which 
crossed it, at its widest part, from east to west. The description 
given of this wall by Gordon in his Itinerarium Septentrianale is 
in a great measure applicable to its present state. The ^^ forts at 
Castlehill and New Kilpatrick," the " ditch running up the -hill 
at Ferguston," and the " causeway at New Kilpatrick'' are still 
nearly in the condition he describes. Two stones dug from the 
ruins of these forts, and noticed by Gordon, the one as the largest^ 
and the other as the noblest Roman stones ever found in Scot- 
land, are preserved in the Hunterian Museum of the University 
of Glasgow. A few years ago, another stone was dug up near 
Castlehill, and presented by Mr Glassford, the proprietor, to the 
same institution. It is a votive tablet, dedicated to the rural gods, 
which may fairly be interpreted, the fairies of Britain. The height 
is 3^ feet ; the breadth of the base 16 inches ; and the thickness 10 
inches* It is in excellent preservation, and the inscription, which 
we subjoin, is distinctly legible. — campestribvs et brtanni q 

P SBTIVS IVSTVS PREF COH IIII GAL V. 8LL. M. ^ 

On the farm of Dasholm, near Grarscube, a barrow or tu- 
mulus has recently been discovered, and in part opened up. 



48 DUMBARTONSHIRB. 

Hitherto this mound, though sufficiently conspicuous and evi- 
dently artificial, had attracted little obser^tion, the curiosity 
of any chance inquirer being satisfied by the traditionary in« 
formation of its being a court-hill, one of those eminences on 
which courts of justice were held in the days of feudal juris* 
diction. But, a short time ago, the farmer, partly with the 
view of clearing his field of an incumbrance, and partly of obtain- 
ing soil to top-dress other fields, set about removing the mound^ 
and had not proceeded far in his operations when he came upon 
a narrow flight of steps leading upwards from the level of the field, 
not to the centre of the tumulus, but towards a point in the radi- 
us, distant about one-third of its length from the outer extremity. 
This stair being followed six or seven paces inward, was found to 
terminate in a flag-stone, on which some ashes or cinders lay, and 
which emitted a hollow sound on being struck with the tools* of 
the workmen. It was removed, and beneath it there was discover- 
ed a narrow oblong trough or cell, walled with stone on every side. 
In this, several fragments of armour were found, among which were 
apparently the visor of a helmet, the head of a spear, and the blade 
of a sword, the first being of copper, and the two last of iron. 
Besides these, there were what may have been a spade or shovel, 
much turned up at the edges, two picks of a small size, and se- 
veral other articles, the purpose of which has not been guessed — 
all of iron. The whole of them are in the possession of the 
farmer. There were no bones discovered, and the stone-work 
seemed to extend no farther than has been described. The re- 
moval of the tumulus, however, has not been continued, and pro- 
bably other remains of antiquity may yet be found, as very little 
progress has hitherto been made in opening it up. 

Ruins at Drumry, — At Drumry, near Garscadden, are some 
ruins, said to be those of a chapel, which there undoubtedly was 
at that place ; but which have every appearance of being part of 
a keep or peel ; what now remains being a patched tower, over- 
hanging a steep bank. At a period considerably remote, the lands 
of Drumry belonged to a branch of the Callendar family ; and Pits- 
cottie notices a Sir Robert Livingston of Drumry, Lord Trea- 
surer of Scotland, as having been beheaded at Edinburgh in 1447, 
in consequence of his being implicated in the Charges against Sir 
Alexander Livingston of Callendar, Governor of James IL during 
his minority. Another Sir Robert Livingston, of Easter Wemyssand 
Drumry, was killed in the battle of Flodden, 1513. His daughter. 



NEW KILPATRICK. 49 

Margaret, married Sir James Hamilton of Fymiart, who received 
from James V. a grant of the lands of Drumry, which had probably 
escheated to the Crown in default of heirs-male. Sir James ex« 
changed them in 1528 with Lawrence Crawford, for the lands of 
Crawford-John in Lanarkshire, by which means they came into 
possession of the Kilbirney family, who took from them the title of 
Barons of Drumry. This Lawrence Crawford is said by Chalmers,* 
somewhat inaccurately, to have founded a chapel here, dedicated 
to the Virgin Mary. He was not the founder of the chapel ; for 
there is mention of it in the deed of conveyance by which he be- 
came possessed of the estate ; and a notice of the chapel-lands 
of Drumry is met with in 1476. Crawford says f more correctly, 
that Lawrence Crawford founded a Chaplainry in the little church 
of Drumry, of his own patronage ; it being a usual practice with 
men of wealth to dedicate private altars in churches to their fa- 
vourite saints, and to provide for their service by liberal endow- 
ments. This chaplainry at Drumry was endowed with the lands 
of Drumchapel, and other considerable possessions, among which 
were the lands of Jordanhill in Renfrewshire. 

Lurg.^ — At Lurg, on the estate of Mains, there was another 
small chapel, of which few memorials now remain. The place 
where it stood is pointed out by the name Chapel Couch; and in 
the tradition of the neighbourhood the auld kirk is still spoken of. 
There was a cemetery attached to it, and till within these thirty 
years several tombstones remained. These are now all removed, 
with the exception of one, which is covered with a few inches of 
soil, and is passed over by the plough. It is a rude unpolished 
stone, without date or inscription. 

Modem Buildings. — Of modern buildings the most worthy of 
notice is Garscube House, the seat of Sir Archibald Campbell 
of Succoth, Bart. It is in the old EiTglish manor style, and is a 
very elegant building, highly creditable to the architect, Mr Burn 
of Edinburgh. It was built in 1826-27. — Another handsome 
house, in the same style, has lately been erected at Clober for Alex- 
ander Dunlop, Esq. Advocate, planned by Mr Baird of Glasgow. 
— Killermont House, the seat of Mr Colquhoun, M. P., is large and 
commodious. The modern part of it, forming the south front, was 
built about the year 1805. — At Garscadden ; at Balvie, the seat 
of James Macnair, Esq. ; and at Kilmardinny, lately purchased 

• ('al«donia Vol iii. p. 904, note. t Peerage, p. 160. 

DUMBARTONT. D 



50 DUMBARTONSHIUE. 

by William Brown, Esq. merchant in Glasgow, there are good 
substantial bouses. Garscadden-gate was formerly much tisited 
by idlers from Glasgow and Paisley ; but it is now divested of the 
&ntastic ornaments which constituted a great part of its attraction. 
It is, however, still worthy of a visit, being an elegant Gothico- 
castellated structure. The church is a neat and commodious place 
of worship, with little attempt at ornament. The material em- 
ployed in all of these buildings is freestone, which is abundant in 
the neighbourhood. 

HI. — Population. 
In the records of the Presbytery of Dumbarton of the year 1653, 
there is a statement of the number of persons on the examination 
rolls of the several parishes within its bounds. In this parish the 
number was 750 ; which, supposing the rule to hold good that two- 
thirds of the examinable persons are equal to half the population, 
gives 1000 as the number of inhabitants at that date. 

According to Dr Webster^s tables it amounted in the year 1755 to 1990 

By the Government census of 1801 it was . . 2312 

1811, 2608 

1821, 2530 

1831, . . 30£0 

Of the latter number 1610 were males, and 1480 females; 1675 
resided in the Dumbartonshire part of the parish, and 1415 in 
Stirlingshire. The increase has taken place chiefly in the village 
of Milngavie (written, as it is pronounced, Millguy, in the former 
Statistical Account,) and has been caused by the establishment 
of a cotton-factory and a calico print- work. It ha5 not, however, 
been confined to this village, but has been general over the pa- 
rish ; and is to be attributed to the prosperous state of trade and, 
till lately, of agriculture. Of the inhabitants of the parish, 1 162 * 
reside in Milngavie, and the remaining 1928 in the country, or 
in small hamlets. 

Birthsy Sfc. — The yearly average of registered births for the three 
years preceding 1835 is 53; and of proclamations for marriage, 25.6. 
Neither of these numbers, however, can be relied on for statistical 
purposes. The number of proclamations does not quite corre- 
spond with the number of marriages ; for sometimes the banns 
are published without being followed by marriage ; and more fre- 
quently marriage takes place without publication of banns. The 

• Thi« applies to the year 1831, since which time tlie population of Milngavie if 
believed to have ir.creased hy 150 souls ; and that of the parish to alx)ut 3250 in all. 



NEW KILPATRICK. 



51 



Dumber of births is stiU less to be relied on, for very few of the 
Dissenters are at the pains to register. We can therefore obtain 
only an approximation from the proportion of Dissenters to the 
adherents of the Established Church ; the latter being required 
to register before obtaining baptism for their children. This pro- 
portion gives 89,3 as the yearly average of births for the last three 
years. We have no public register of deaths ; but a private list 
kept by the grave-digger gives 71, as the average number of 
burials during the same period. This, however, is considerably 
above the average of deaths within the parish ; for, owing to the 
neighbourhood of Glasgow and other circumstances, more funerals 
come from other parishes than leave this. For instance, of the 
97 burials in 1834, 22 * were from other parishes, while only four 
persons are known to have been carried elsewhere for burial. The 
average of these years is likewise increased by there having been 
8 buriak in consequence of cholera in 1832, and 6 in 1834. 
Making allowance for these circumstances, the yearly average of 
deaths will be found to be about 60, or in the proportion of one to 
52.8 inhabitant$. f 

Table of burials in the years 1832, 1833, and 1834. 



Years of ase. 


1832. 


1833. 


1834. 


Under 1, 7 


12 


17 


23 


From 1 to 2, 


1 


6 


12 


2 10, 


5 


3 


16- 


10 20, 


3 


5- . 


3 


20 30, 


5 


6 


6 


30 40, 


o 


2 


6 


40 50, 


3 


3 


8 


30 60, 


3 




7 


60 70, 


8 


7 




70 80, 


5 


2 


^ 

o 


80 90, 


3 


5 





90 97, 


2 


• 





Totol, 55 61 97 

'Classification of Ages. — Of the inhabitants of the village of Miln- 
gavie, there are. 

Under 15 years of age, 460 

Betwixt 15 and 30, i^A) 

30 50, 238 

50 70, .111 

Above 70, .'JS 

Total, 1162 

The nuAiber of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, above 50 years of a^^e, is 6 

women, spinsters and widows, above 45, 52 

We have not the means of extending these particulars to the other 
parts of the parish. 

• This again is much above the average, which may be above twcive. 
f On a medium populatiou of 3170. 



52 DUMBARTONSHIUE. 

The number of families, giving an BTcrage of 5.27 persons to each family, is 5(j7 
inhabited houses, . . ... • 442 

uninhabited houses, .... .9 

In the parish, or belonging to it, there are 4 persons insane ; 4 
fatuous; 2 blind; I deaf; and 1 deaf and dumb. There are 17 
proprietors of land of the yearly value of h. 50 or upwards ; and 
1 beneath that value. We have 6 or 7 resident families of inde- 
pendent fortune. 

Habits^ Circumstancesy Sfc, — The habits of the people are no 
way peculiar. There is a growing taste for neatness and cleanli- 
ness in personal appearance and domestic arrangements. The 
comforts and advantages of society are enjoyed in a very conside- 
rable degree ; and, were it not for the depressed state of agricul- 
ture, all classes would have reason to be satisfied with their con- 
dition. Oatmeal, both in the form of porridge and of cakes, po- 
tatoes, niilk, and cheese, barley-broth with butcher-meat, or her- 
ring, are the ordinary food of the peasantry. Wheaten bread, 
butter, tea, and coffee, are in more common use with the villagers. 
The circumstances of the latter class, employed chiefly in cotton- 
spinning and calico printing, have been very prosperous for some 
years past; but contentment does not always accompany pros- 
perity; and during the year 1834 we had very serious distur- 
bances at Milngavie and Dasholm, in consequence of a general 
strike by the united printers. This attempt at dictating to their 
masters, as uniformly happens where the latter have resolution 
enough to resist the demands of the Unionists, has entirely failed 
of success, and has been the occasion of a great number of the 
printers being deprived of their employment, by the introduction 
of hand-loom weavers and other operatives into their places. 

Character of Inhabitants. — The inhabitants are intelligent and 
shrewd in the ordinary affairs of life, and many of them possess 
no small share of acquired knowledge. The ancient religious 
character of the Scottish peasantry is scarcely maintained among 
us ; and, of our villagers especially, there are numbers by whom 
religious ordinances are much neglected. In general, however, 
religion has a hold of the minds of the people ; many of them arc 
well read in their Bibles ; and from not a few houses the morning 
and evening sacrifice of family worship is still offered up.* The 
chief stain on their moral character arises from the vice of intem- 
perance. Till the reduction of the duty on whisky, smuggling 
was carried on to a considerable extent, but is now unknown 



NEW KILPATRtCK. 



53 



among us ; an improvement nhich is fully counterbalanced by the 

increase of drunienneta from the cheapness of ardent spirits. 

IV. — Indlstry. 

The following Table is constructed from the Government 

census of 1831. 



Division 

of 
Fari-h. 


tmplojtd ill 
RgrieaUate. 


11 

"Is: 


l| 

ii 

71 

MO 


|l 
II 

8 

12 
31 


i 

141 

;« 
17H 


3 1 


Numlwi oT 


11 


if 

Too 

147 


I 

141 


IliiirlHrlDniliire. 
Stirtingthlrc. 


35 le 
II) \-i 


[4 

12 


11.1 


T.rtil. 



Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The extent of arable land, 
either regularly or occasionally in tillage, is calculated to be 6000 
Scots acresj and about 2300 Scots acres remain constantly ivaste, 
or in pasture. Of these, 800 acres may be capable of cultiva- 
tion ; but it is very questionable whether the application of capital 
to their improvement would be profitable. None of the parish is 
in a state of undivided common. There are 600 Scots acres un- 
der wood, of which not more than to the extent of 3 or 4 acres is 
natural. Fir, beech, and in recent plantations, oak, are the most 
common of our cultivated trees. Till of late, little attention was 
paid to forest management, the trees being allowed to grow up aa 
they might, without pruning or thinning, 'i'he proprietors are 
now more sensible of the importance of this branch of rural eco- 
nomy, and begin to plant more extensively, and (o bestow more 
care on the young plantations. 

Rent of Land. — I'he average rent of arable land is h. I, i4s. 6d. 
per Scots acre ; but this includes a deal of inferior land in the 
liigher parts of the parisli. In the lower parts, from L. 2 to L. 2, 
10s. is a common rent, and some is as high as L. 3 per Scots 
acre. On pasture farms, the average rate of grazing is reckoned 
to be L. 3 per ox or cow ; and Ss. per ewe or full-grown sheep. 
On low pastures, where milch cows are taken in to graze, it i^ 
usual to receive L. 5 per cew for the season. 

* The toUl number of ikrms In (he pariah i< 70 ; but uf Ibne, HTcra] arc occupied 
by femila ; ' some bj the proprictiin ; sorDe uramoll uie *re laboured by (he furuieri 
tbemielTe*; and nme ore occupied by itenoiii engaged in alhar cmploymeuu : none 

f Of tb«e, 97 are employed in coal-mines. 



54 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Rate of Wages. — The usual wage of an able-bodied labourer w 
'2s. a-day in summer, and Is. 8d. in winter, without victuals. 
When constant employment is given, the wage is 10s. a- week 
throughout the year. Women get from Is. to Is. 6d. a-day. 
Our farmers, however, are not much in the habit of employing 
day-labourers, except for harvest-work; and that is now most 
frequently done by the piece, at the rate of 14s. for wheat, and 
lis. for oats or barley, per Scots acre. Potatoes are usually dug 
at the rate of from 8d. to lOd. per boll of 6 cwt The ordinary 
work of the farm is done by hired servants, who have their bed and 
board in the farmer's house, and form part of his family. The 
common wage of a good ploughman is about L. 9, 9s. per half- 
year ; of an inferior ploughman, L. 8. I'he wage of an experi- 
enced dairy-maid is from L. 5, 5s. to L. 6 per half-year, and of 
other female servants from L. 3 to L. 4, lOs. Masons^ wages 
are 16s. or 17s. a- week ; and carpenters' Is. more. 

Prices of Raw Produce and Country Manufacture. — The prices 
of different articles of raw produce and country manufacture, re- 
quired for the purposes of rural and domestic economy, are nearly 
as follows : — Lime, per chaldron of 64 Winchester bushels, 14s. ; 
dung, per ton, 5s. to 6s. ; coals, per cart of 12 cwt, according to 
quality, 3s. or 4s.; beef, per stone of 16 lbs., (22^ oz. in the lb.) 
8s. ; mutton, per ditto, 7s. ; pork, per ditto, 5s. 6d. ; wheat, per 
imperial quarter, * L. 2, 10s. lOd. ; barley, per ditto, * L. 1, 
10s. 6d. ; oats, per ditto, * 19s. 7d. ; beans, per ditto, * L. 1, 
12s. 5d. ; potatoes, per ton, (10s. 8d. per boll of 6 cwt) L. 1, 15s. 
e^d. ; a close-bodied one-horse cart, without wheels, L. 4, 5s. 
to L. 4, 10s. ; pair of cart-wheels and axle, L. 6 to L. 7 ; a wooden 
plough, L.3; an iron ditto, L. 4, 15s.; a pair of heavy harrows 
with 44 teeth, L. 2, 17s. 6d. ; a pair of light ditto with 33 teeth, 
L. 1, IBs.; a double iron roller, L. 14 ; a corn-fanner, L. 6 to 
L. 8 ; mason-work, per rood of 2 feet thick, L. 2, 2s. to L. 2, 
5s.; ditto, the mason providing materials, L. 7, 10s. to L. 8; 
carpenter work, — roofing, per rood, L. 5 ; ditto, flooring, per 
yard, 3s. 6d. ; smith-work, screwed, per lb., 6d. ; ditto, plain, per 
lb., 4d. ; a set of horse shoes, 4s. 

Sheep and Cattle. — The common breed of sheep is the black- 
faced ; of cattle for the butcher, the West Highland ; and of dairy 

* These are the average prices of the Dumbartonshire Aars for the three years pre- 
ceding 1834. 



NEW KILPATHICK. 



55 



cows, the Ayrshire. Much attention has been paid for some years 
past to the improvement of the latter, to which the Strath- Endrick 
and Dumbartonshire Agricultural Clubs have greatly contributed 
by the liberal premiums offered for good bulls. Few of the sheep 
or black-cattle are bred in the parish, being bought in at the 
great fairs in the neighbourhood. 

Husbandry. — The general character of the system of husbandry 
pursued is, green-cropping with a six years' shift. The usual ro- 
tation is, I . oats ; 2. potatoes, with a small portion of turnip ; 3. 
wheat, with rye-grass and clover; 4. hay ; 5. and 6. pasture. There 
are some farms, however, on which no regular rotation is observed, 
and two white crops in succession are still occasionally taken : but 
this occurs chiefly on lands which are held on uncertain leases; 
and the consequence is, that these lands are sadly scourged. Po- 
tato-husbandry is carried to great perfection, and the management 
of this crop is looked upon in a great measure as the test of a farm- 
er's activity and enterprise. The soil is not in general favourable 
for turnips, and still less so for turning in sheep to eat them off 
the ^ound ; and seldom more than to the extent of an acre or 
two are grown on each farm, to supply the dairv-cows. Summer- 
fallowing suits the soil better, and is partially practised ; but the 
neighbourhood of Glasgow occasions a great demand for potatoes, 
and affords an abundant supply of dung, which is brought out by 
the return carts at a diminished expense. It is usual to apply to 
the potato crop from 30 to 40 tons of dung per Scots acre ; and 
it is found, that the more liberal the allowance, the greater is the 
profit. Thirty bolls of potatoes per Scots acre, equal to 9 tons 
in weight, are reckoned an average crop ; but 50 bolls are fre- 
quently gathered ; and in favourable soils and seasons, 60, or even 
70 are sometimes boasted of. The failure of the seed, which has 
been so generally matter of complaint for the last* two seasons, has 
been partially experienced here. Some fields were planted anew, 
and others sown with turnips ; but the loss has proved much smal- 
ler than was feared at first; many fields which in spring seemed 
to have failed, having afterwards recovered and borne abundant 
crops. The opinion begins to prevail, that the failure, where it 
has occurred, and the tardiness of growth in other cases, were 
owing chiefly to the over-dry state of the ground at the time of 
planting; a circumstance of which we have not often reason to 
complain in this district. The potato crop is uniformly followed* 

♦ Written in 1835. 



55 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

by wheat, for which it makes a good preparation. As soon as 
the potatoes are dug, the ground is ploughed anew, and the wheat 
sown. This can seldom be accomplished before the middle of 
October ; and from that period till Martinmas is the usual season 
of wheat-sowing; but fallow ground is sown in the end of Sep- 
tember. Four imperial quarters per Scots acre are reckoned an 
average return ; but we have known double that quantity reaped 
after summer fallowing. Of oats, the average return may be five, 
and of barley, four and a half quarters. 

The Dairy. — The dairy is an important, and the most profitable 
branch of our husbandry. A farm of 100 Scots acres will gene- 
rally have 12 milch cows, yielding on an average 8 Scots pints of 
milk, and 1 lb. avoirdupois of butter per day, during seven months 
of the year. The whole of the milk, except what is used by the 
family, is churned, and the butter and butter-milk sent to Glas- 
gow, where they find a ready market. Butter fetches about 9d. 
per lb. ; and butter-milk Id. per Scots pint We shall thus have 
as the gross produce of each cow, 214 lbs. butter, at 9d. per lb. 
L. 8, Os. 6d. ; 1712 pints butter-milk, at Id. per pint^ L. 7, 2s. 8d. ; 
making L. 15, Ss. 2d. 

This system of dairy-husbandry seems well adapted to the neigh- 
bourhood of a large town, and is extending every year. Even 
from beyond the limits of this parish, a distance of eleven or twelve 
miles, butter-milk is regularly carried to Glasgow. 

Leases and Rents. — The general duration of leases is nineteen 
years. Rents, though reduced from the high war-rates, are still 
too high for the tenant. Money-rents alone are in use ; but in 
a few instances they are subject to a fixed increase or reduction ac- 
cording as the fiars price of wheat exceeds or falls below L. 8 
per quarter. It seems not yet to be understood that it would be 
better for both parties that the landlord should take the payment 
of all public burdens on himself. Minister's stipend and school- 
master's salary, conversion labour money, and land-tax, are still 
very generally charged against the tenants ; though on some es- 
tates they are relieved from the first two. 

Farm-buildings, — Several of the farm-steadings have been re- 
built of late years, and in general they are substantial, and suited 
to the size of the farms ; but there are some not very creditable 
exceptions, which we have a prospect of soon seeing removed. 
The dwelling-house is usually of one story, containing a kitchen, 
a parlour, and a small middle apartment below, with two sleep- 



NEW KtLPATRICK. 51 

iog rooms above. On the lands of the Duke of Montrose, and on 
several of the farms on the Garscube and Dugalstone estates, 
there are good two-storied houses, with other ample buildings. 

Size of FarmSf Inclomres^ S^c. — The extent of the arable farms 
varies from 30 to 300 Scots acres — the most common size be- 
ing about 80 acres. The whole of the arable part of the parish is 
inclosed and subdivided into fields, varying from oneio fifteen acres 
in extent. The hill-pastures are likewise inclosed with ring fences. 
Thorn-hedges are in most common use ; but dry stone dikes are 
frequent. More attention has been paid of late than formerly to 
the management of quick fences ; but still many of them are far 
from being in good condition. 

Obstacles to Improvement, — The chief obstacles to further im- 
provement arise from the want of capital, and the high rate of 
rents compared with prices. Most of those tenants who bad re- 
alized some money in the war-times have now lost it ; and many 
have been obliged to quit their farms^ There is no want of en- 
terprise among them, and were the landlords disposed to be at the 
expense of furrow-draining their lands, we doubt not that the 
tenants would willingly pay a fair per ccntage on the cost A 
great part of the largest estate in the parish is, or was till very 
recently, held in liferent by Dowagers, on whose lives the leases 
are contingent On these lands no expensive improvements can 
be undertaken ; and even the ordinary outlay necessary to keep 
the ground in heart cannot be made without ^isk, and in fact is 
not made. 

Freestone Quarry, — At Netherton of Garscube there is a valu- 
able freestone quarry of considerable celebrity. The stone is of 
a warm cream colour, easily chiselled as it comes from the quarry, 
but hardening by exposure. Roseneath House, Blythswood House, 
the Custom-House at Greenock, and Garscube House, present 
favourable specimens of this stone. At one time it was largely 
exported to Ireland and the West Indies, and proved a source of 
great wealth to the tacksman. The average out-put of rock is 
about 20,000 cubic yards per annum, and it gives employment to 
68 persons. 

Produce. — The average gross amouut and value of raw produce 
raised in the parish, may be estimated as follow : 

2488 Imperial quarters of wheat, at L. 2, 10s.l OJ. per quarter, L. 6923 13 4 

5675 do. oats, at 198. 7d. - do. . 5556 15 5 

315 do. barley, at L. 1, lOs. 6d. do, - 480 7 6 

110 do. beans, at L. I, 12s. 5d. do. - 178 5 10 



58 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

4545 tons potatoes, at L. 1, 15s. 6d. per ton, - - L. 8067 7 6 

1872 do. turnip, at 17s. do. - - 1591 4 

26,550 do. hny, at Ss. do. - - 3882 10 

18,660 do. wheat-straw, at Is. 3d. do. - 1166 5 

31.780 do. oatstraw, at ls.8d. do. - . 2648 6 8 

1960 do barley-straw, at Is. 3d. do. - - 122 10 

Land in pasture, grazing 700 milch-cows, at L. 5 each, - 3500 

do. do. 328 black-cattle, at L. 3 - - 984 . 

do. do. 160 young cattle, at L. 1, 10s. - 240 

do. do. 850 sheep, at 8s. .... . 340 

Gardens and orchards ("conjectured ), . - - - . - 300 

Thinnings of woods, (do.) - - . - - 300 

8187 carts of coal of 12 cwt., at 2s. 9d. per cart, . • 1125 14 3 

4500 do. do. at 4s. per do. - - 900 

1695 chaldrons of lime, at 148. per chaldron, ... 1186 10 

20,000 cubic yards freestone, at 4s. 6d. per yard, • • 4500 

Gross produce, - - • - - •L.43,393 9 6 

Manvfuctures and Arts, — The chief branches of manufacture 
and art, are calico-printing, cotton-spinning, and bleaching of cot- 
tons and linens. We have now ( 1835) three printfields, which em- 
ploy 623 hands, and throw off annually 167,800 pieces of 24 yards 
each. It is chiefly block-printing that is carried on ; but some 
machinery has recently been erected, and more is about to be in- 
troduced into the works at Milngavie. The cotton-fectory em- 
ploys 130 persons, and is now being enlarged to double its former 
extent. Two bleachflelds employ 82 persons ; at the Clober field 
3,169,814 yards of cloth are bleached annually, of which 146,746 
yards are linen. A paper-mill, conducted till lately on the old sys- 
tem, employed 22 men and several females, and produced twenty 
reams of paper a<day, but now that the improved machinery has 
been introduced, with 15 men and about the same number of fe- 
males as before, it produces sixty reams per day. A snuff-mill 
employs 2 ; and four corn mills, one of which is chiefly for in^heat 
and barley, employ 13 persons. A distillery, at which 5 hands 
are employed, consumes 483 imperial quarters of barley, and pro- 
duces 11,200 imperial gallons of whisky a-year. In the cotton- 
factory, the legal time of working is strictly adhered to — twelve 
hours a-day for five days of the week, and nine hours on Saturday. 
At other employments the usual time of working is ten hours a- 
day, but on occasions of extraordinary demand, these hours are 
often increased. Good wages are made at most of these employ- 

* Deducting from this sum the value of minerals, woods, and orchards, there re- 
mains in round numbers L.d5,100, as the value of the gross produce of land. The 
land rent of the parish is L. 11,500, nearly one- third of the produce ; which is much 
too high a rate, the calculation being that Uie land ought to produce four rents to give 
a fair profit to the farmer. Considerable allowance, however, must be made for er- 
rors in an estimate in which accuracy is obviously not attainable ; and we have no 
doubt that our estimate of the produce is below, rather than above the truth. 



NEW KILPATIUCK. 59 

ments. Printers earn from 16s. to 30s., and cotton-spinners about 
20s. a-week. To common observation it would appear that cot- 
ton-spinning is not favourable to health, the workers having ge- 
nerally a sallow and delicate look. The other employments seem 
perfectly healthy. Factory-work, by collecting a multitude of per- 
sons of both sexes together, is injurious to morals ; and the demand 
for the labour of children, which, though now checked at the cot- 
ton-factory, continues at the printfields, threatens to increase the 
evil. It is an evil, however, which the masters of such works have 
it much in their power to remedy or prevent, by making a careful 
selection of workers, by dismissing bad characters from their em- 
ployment, by providing for the education of the children, and by 
encouraging attendance on religious ordinances. 

v.— Parochial Economy. 
Markets. — The nearest market- town is Glasgow, which is about 

seven imperial miles distant from the centre of the parish. The 

only village of any consideration is Milngavie, in which there are 

good shops for butcher-meat, groceries, and various other wares. A 

fair for milch-cows is held at New Kirk, (by which name the few 

houses near the church are usually called) on the 1st* of May, 

O. S. which was formerly well frequented ; but is now dwindled 

away into insignificance. 

Means of Communication, — The means of communication are 
abundant. We have a penny-post to and from Glasgow every 
lawful day, with two post-offices, one at Milngavie, and the other 
at New Kirk. The high-ways from Glasgow to Balfron and Dry- 
men pass through the parish ; making, together with part of the 
road to Dumbarton, about 11 imperial miles of turnpike-road with- 
in its boundaries. We have three stage-coaches travelling on these 
roads ; one from Milngavie daily ; one fromBalfron, and one from 
Drymen, three times a-week ; all of them to Glasgow. The Forth 
and Clyde Canal passes through the parish, nearly parallel with 
and not far from its southern border. The principal local pur- 
pose for which it is used is the conveyance of coals from the Tem- 
ple coal-work, and of stones from Garscube quarry. The farmers 
near it sometimes receive boat-loads of dung from Greenock ; but 
the heavy duties render it fully as dear as that brought by carts 
from Glasgow. 

Bridges. — Our principal bridges are over the Kelvin, connect- 
ing this parish with Cadder and the Barony. There are three of 
these, of three arches each, and one of two arches ; besides a 



CO DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

handsome private bridge lately built for a new approach to Gars- 
cube House. The great aqueduct, by which the Forth and Clyde 
Canal is carried over the Kelvin, stands in the angle, where this 
parish meets with Govan and the Barony. Over the Allander 
there are three single-arched bridges, and several others over smal- 
ler streams. All of them are of stone, and they are generally in 
good condition. 

Ecclesiastical State.-^The church is centrically situated, and is 
little more than three miles distant from the remotest inhabited 
parts of the parish. It was built in 1807, and is in good repain 
There is accommodation in it for about 700 persons. None of 
the sittings are let for hire, but all of them, except 20, are appro- 
priated by the different heritors, according to their valuations, and 
are occupied by their tenants, free of charge. Those not appro- 
priated are reserved for strangers and the poor; A handsome 
new manse, in the English cottage style, was built in 1837, on a 
plan by Mr Herbertson of Glasgow. The glebe, including 
garden ground, is about 5 Scots acres in extent, and is worth 
L. 10 Sterling a-year. There is no grass glebe ; but the statu- 
tory allowance of L. 20 Scots is received in place of it. The sti- 
pend consists of 17 chalders of grain, half barley and half oat- 
meal ; together with L. 100 Scots for communion elements, and 
L. 1, Is. 7|d. Sterling, drawn, " conform to use and wont," 
from the lands of Kilbowie, in the parish of Old Kilpatrick. Tak- 
ing an average of the Dumbartonshire fiars for the three years pre- 
ceding 1834, and deducting 9^ per cent, as the difference between 
the Dumbarton and Linlithgow measures of barley, the whole 
amount of the stipend is L. 266, 13s. Sterling. 

There is a Relief meeting-house at Milngavie, and in the neigh- 
bouring parish of Old Kilpatrick are two Seceding houses, one 
connected with the Original Burgher, and the other with the 
United Secession, which afford accommodation for a considerable 
number of inhabitants of this parish. The stipend of the Relief 
minister at Milngavie is L. 110 Sterling a-year, paid from the 
seat-rents and collections; besides which he has a free dwelling- 
house and garden. 

The following is as near an approximation as can well be made 
to a correct classification of the inhabitants according to their re- 
ligious denominations : — Attached to the Establishment, 338 fa- 
milies, or 1784 persons; Secedersor Dissenters, 215 families, or 



NEW KILPATUICK. 61 

1 104 persons ; Episcopalians, 5 femilies, or 31 persons ; Catholics, 
19 families, or 1 12 persons ; total, 577 families or 3031 persons.* 

Divine Service is not so regularly well attended as it ought to 
be, neither at the Established Church, nor, it is believed, at the 
Relief meeting-house. According to a common calculation, half 
of the population are supposed capable- of attending church. Of 
the 1784 persons, therefore, who profess to be attached to the 
Establishment, 892 ought to attend public worship; but the church 
is seldom full except on occasion of the communion ; and the con- 
gregation is considered to be well out when it amounts to 500 per- 
sons. A good many, however, are accommodated at Mary- Hill, 
and other neighbouring churches ; and, on the whole, it cannot be 
said that we are not a church-going people. The average num- 
ber of communicants at the Established Church is 360; and the 
average amount of the ordinary collections for the poor is L. 58^ 
to which L. 10 may be added as the probable amount of occasional 
collections for religious and charitable purposes. 

Education. — There are in the parish one parochial, and five 
private day-schools, and five Sabbath schools. None of the private 
schools are endowed, but four of them have school-rooms provided 
by individuals, and the other by private subscription. One of the 
teachers has likewise a dwelling-house and garden, together with 
a small salary, supplied by Sir Archibald Campbell, Bart. The 
branches of education generally taught are merely reading, writ- 
ing, and arithmetic In the parochial school, and in one of the* 
private schools, English grammar, Latin, geography, and practi* 
cal mathematics are taught in addition to the more common 
branches. The parocliial schoolmaster has the maximum salary 
and other legal appointments, with a small endowment from the 
Mains estate, amounting to L. 20 Scots a-year. The school-fees 
are so ill paid, or rather so seldom demanded, that they do not 
add above L. 10 a-year to his income. The usual terms of edu- 
cation are, for reading, 3s. 6d. ; for writing and accounts, 4s. 6d. ; 
English grammar or geography, 5s. ; and Latin, 7s. per quarter. 
Though the benefits of education are freely acknowledged, there is 
reason to fear that many parents are satisfied with giving their chil- 
dren a smaller share of it than formerly. The temptation of add- 
ing somewhat to the family earnings, causes those who are in the 
neighbourhood of the printfields to be taken from school at much 

• T\m enumeration diflers slightly frpra the Government census of 1831, having 
been made independently of it, and partly in the preceding year. 



62 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

too early an age ; an evil for which, it is hoped, a partial remedy 
will soon be^rovided by the erection of an infant school at Miln- 
gavie, (erected in J 835.) In that village the proportion of persons 
above six years of age who have not received some degree of edu- 
cation, is about three in every hundred ; but with many the degree 
of it is so small, that they can scarce be said to be able to read. 
Over the parish, the average proportion attending school is one- 
tenth of the population. 

Literature,— ^Vie have two libraries ; one of them kept at Miln- 
gavie, and the other in the parish school-room. They are both 
supported by annual subscription, and the latter is much read. 
The books are chiefly religious, biographical, historical, and agri- 
cultural. 

Savings Banks, Sfc. — Several years ago a savings bank was esta- 
blished, but, not meeting with encouragement, it has been discon- 
tinued. The nearest to which the inhabitants have access,* are at 
Mary-Hill and Glasgow; but it is believed that little money is 
lodged in them from this parish. A friendly society maintained its 
ground for a good many years ; but whether from some defect in 
its constitution, or from mismanagement of its funds, it was found 
necessary to dissolve it ; and at present we have no institution of 
the kind, to the regret of the well-wishers of the labouring classes. 

Poor ojid Parochial Funds. — In the year 1831, which we se- 
lect for the sake of comparison by the Government census, and as 
being quite an average year, the sum expended on cases of pauper- 
ism was L. 173, 9s. Ud. Of this sum there went to the support 
of the ordinary poor, L. 127, 9s. ; occasional poor, L. 27, 1 Is. 
lOd; board of a lunatic, L. 13, 7s. 7d. ; funeral expenses, L. 5, 
Is. 6d. The number of ordinary poor throughout the year was 
35, so that the average allowance to each was 6s. per calendar 
month. The population being 3090, the charge to each inhabi- 
tant would be Is. l^d ; and the rental of the parish being L. 1 1,500, 
the burden on the land would be 3^d. in the pound, supposing the 
land to bear the whole charge. But we have an annual revenue 
of about L. 95, arising from the following sources : — Church door 
collections, average L. 58 ; interest of L. 520 at 4 per cent. L. 20, 
16s. ; interest of L. 40 at 5 per cent. L. 2 ; hearse and mortcloth 
hire, average L. 10; private baptisms, average L. 1, 10s.; fines 
for immorality, average L. 3 ; total, L. 95, 6s. By a voluntary 
contribution, proportioned to their several valuations, the heritors 
make up what is awanting to meet the charges ; a plan that is 



NEW KILPATRICK. 63 

free from many of the objections to which a legal assessment is 
liable ; but the success of which depends on the unanimity of the 
heritors. We have met with several instances of persons in very 
needy circumstances refraining from asking, and even refusing to 
accept, parochial relief; but this disposition is not now so general 
as it once was. Relief is rather claimed as a right, than regarded 
as a degrading charity ; yet it does not often happen that any who 
are not really in need apply for assistance* 

Akhouses. — There are sixteen houses licensed for the sale of 
spirits and ales, and two for the sale of ales alone ; being at the 
rate of one for 31.5 families. Though the proportion is higher 
in many other places, yet the number is too great for the good of 
morals ; and it is much to be desired that more strictness were ob- 
served in the granting of licenses, and greater facilities- afforded 
for withdrawing them when abused. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Since the date of the former Statistical Account of the parish, 

considerable changes have taken place, both in respect to Agri- 
cutture and Manufactures. A better method of Husbandry is now 
followed, consisting in a regular system of green-cropping, which 
implies the frequent application of manure, and an effectual work- 
ing and cleaning of the ground. The benefit of this system is 
seen in the character of the wheat-crop ; which, instead of being 
as formerly very precarious, now seldom fails, and is chiefly relied 
on by the former for payment of his rent. We do not regard the 
high degree of perfection, or rather we should say of finiealness 
to which the art of ploughing has been carried, as any advantage ; 
for not only is less than a reasonable quantity of work done, but 
it is not substantially done, deep ploughing being sacrificed for the 
sake of an eye-sweet furrow. For the same reason, we look upon 
it as no improvement, that ploughing is now almost uniformly per- 
formed with two horses only, instead of three or four. One advan- 
tage, however, that hence results, is a great saving in the number of 
horses kept, being 75 fewer than before ; and this notwithstanding 
an increase in the number kept for purposes not agricultural. Tlie 
number now in the parish is 285, of which 230 are for the pur- 
poses of agriculture. The want of good roads, noticed in the 
previous report, has been long since remedied, the parish being 
intersected in every direction with turnpike or other roads, the 
former of which are in excellent condition. There is therefore 
no longer any difficulty in procuring dung for the land ; and it is 



G4 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

now carried from Glasgow in great quantity to almost every part 
of the parish. 

By the introduction of cotton-spinning'and calico-printing, the 
village of Milngavie has risen to considerable importance since 
the date of the former report, its population having increased about 
sixfold. A large circulation of money has thus been occasioned, 
and a convenient market created for the disposal of the produce 
of the neighbouring farms. 

In regard to the comforts and conveniences of life, the people 
of this parish partake in a fair measure of the improvement that 
has been general over the kingdom. They are better fed, better 
clad, and better lodged than before. At the same time, pauperism 
has greatly increased, not only in absolute amount, but in ratio. 
On referring to the accounts of the poor's funds for the year 1791, 
when the population, according to the former Report, was 1700, 
we find that the expenditure on cases of pauperism was only 
L. 39, 16s. ; whereas in 1831, with a population of 3090, the ex- 
penditure was L. 173, 9s. lid. Thus, while the population has 
increased in the proportion of 1.8 to 1, or somewhat less than 
twofold, pauperism has increased in the proportion of 4.3 to 1, 
or more than fourfold. This is easily accounted for, without 
supposing any great change in the management. The more 
abundant and the more easily* attainable the necessaries or luxuries 
of life are, the less is the inducement to save, the greater the 
temptation to squander ; so that, when a family is deprived of its 
head, or when individuals are disabled by the infirmities of age, there 
is too often no resource but on the poor's funds. And the habits 
of full living, which a state of prosperity had produced, cannot be 
entirely abandoned even in reduced circumstances; whence it 
happens, that not only is the relative number of the poor augment- 
ed, but their necessities are likewise increased, and a higher rate 
of relief is required. It will tend to confirm these remarks to ob- 
serve, that the rate of pauperism is highest among the manufactur- 
ing or operative, as distinguished from the agricultural classes ; the 
improvement in the mode of living having been greatest with the 
former. Thus in the year 1831, the manufacturing village of 
Milngavie, containing 116'2 of the 3090 inhabitants of the parish, 
absorbed L. 76, 7s, 4d. of the whole expenditure, which, as already 
stated, was L. 173, 9s, lid. or, the population of Milngavie being 
to the whole population of the parish as .37 to 1, the proportion 
of pauperism is .44. If a similar increase of pauperism should be 



ROW. 65 

AMind uoiformly to attend a state of manuracturing prosperity, it 
will form an important deduction from the addition to the sum of 
oatiooal happiness which such prosperity produces. 

The chief improvement which the present state of agricultural 
knowledge suggests, is furrow-draining, accompanied with the use 
of Mr Smith of Deanston's trench plough, or some other method 
of opening the subsoil, so as to allow the escape of the water. 
The trench plough has not yet been introduced, and perhaps th^ 
subsoil is too stiff, and too full of boulders to admit of its introduc- 
tion; but furrow-draining is making yearly progress, and with 
manifest advantage. Small stones are more frequently used for 
filling than the drain tile, and seem preferable where they can 
easily be procured ; but, in many situations, they are not to be 
had without great expense; and it is much to be desired that some 
of our proprietors would establish kilns for the manufacture of 
tiles.* Were the land once thoroughly drained, little would be 
awanting to warrant us in saying that the parish is in a state of 
high agricultural improvement 
Drawn up 1835 ; Revised February 1839. 



PARISH OF ROW. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. JOHN LAURIE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name, — In the immediate neighbourhood of the church, there 
is a long narrow strip or point of land, which, at low water, runs 
into the Gareloch considerably more than half its breadth, and is 
called in Gaelic a Rhue or point. Although there is nothing re- 
markable in this point, except its having been long a ferrying station 
to Roseneath, it has evidently given its name to the parish, most 
probably because the church was built near it, when Row, which 
was once a part of the parish of Roseneath, became a parish of itself 
in the year 1648. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The parish extends about 16 miles 
nearly due north and south. Its greatest breadth from east to 
west is about 6 miles, its narrowest point somewhat more than 

• A tile kiln has now been erected by Mr Colquhoun of Killermont. 
DUMBARTON. E 



66 DUMBARTONSniRF. 

1 mile, and its mean breadth may be fairly estimated at 4 miles. 
It extends over a surface, therefore, of about 64square miles. It 
is bounded on the south, by the river Clyde ; on the east, by the 
parishes of Cardross and Luss ; on the north, by a narrow strip 
of Luss of about a quarter of a mile in breadth, and lying between 
Row and the parish of Arrochar ; and on the west, it is bounded 
by Loch-I^ng, Roseneath, and the Gareloch. Its form is near- 
ly that of a wedge, with its greatest breadth towards the south, and 
running to a point on the north. 

Topographical Appearances. — By far the greater part of the pa- 
rish is hilly and mountainous. The main ridge of hills begins to 
ascend gradually from the shore of the Clyde in the south, and 
stretches continuously in a northerly direction throughout the whole 
length of the parish. The summit of another ridge runs along its 
eastern boundary for several miles, until it unites with the other 
at the head of Glenfruin. The main or western ridge, which is 
skirted on the west by the Gareloch and Loch- Long, and on 
the east by Glenfruin, is mostly covered with heath, where it has 
not been cultivated or laid under wood. That along the east, though 
highfir, is beautifully green. The height of Finnart hill, which 
is perhaps the highest in the parish, is said to be 2500 feet above 
the level of the sea, which lies at its base. Between these two 
ridges of hills, lies the beautiful strath of Glenfruin, signifying, ac- 
cording to some, the Cold Glen, or, according to others, the Glen 
of Sorrow, probably so called from its having been the scene of 
some disastrous event in the times of old, when its inhabitants were 
less secure than they now are from the murderous inroads of their 
neighbours. This strath is about 5 miles long, and varies from 
between a quarter and three-quarters of a mile in breadth. With 
the exception of a little natural wood towards the south, and one or 
two insignificant patches of plantation elsewhere, this glen is whol- 
ly without wood. Much of its soil is exceedingly good ; a part of 
it is under cultivation ; but from its tunnel-like form, and its having 
no wood or hedges to intercept the currents of wind that often 
traverse it very furiously, it is both much less cultivated and much 
less fertile than it should be, and at one time actually was. It owes 
but little to man's labour and care, and therefore it gives but little of 
what it would give, were it dealt with a little more generously. Few 
straths, with no ornament from the hand of man, are more truly 
beautiful. The most northerly eight miles of the parish are entire- 
ly hilly, with only one or two small patches of level ground. There 
is a considerable portion of natural wood along that side of the hills 



ROW. 67 

that look3 into Loch-LoDg. Tlie banks of the Garelocb are much 
less precipitous than those of Loch- Long. Cultivation has extended a 
considerable way up the side of the hills along it, and there is enough 
of wood to add to the beauty of the scenery, as well as occasionally 
to add something to the income of the proprietor. From the village 
of Row southwards, the banks of the Gareloch become more level. 
In the neighbourhood of the church, and of his own house of Arden- 
connel, the late much respected proprietor, Mr Buchanan, plant- 
ed a considerable portion of wood, and to him that beautiful neigh- 
bourhood owes much of its beauty. The flattest and the best land 
in the parish is on Lord John Campbell's estate of Ardincaple, and 
in the barony of Miilig, which lies immediately behind the town of 
Helensburgh. Ardincaple is well wooded, but the barony of Mii- 
lig is exceedingly naked, and has no shelter except the little which 
it steals from the skirting plantations of Ardincaple on the west Of 
the whole parish there is but an inconsiderable part that is either 
cultivated or capable of being cultivated to any advantage. 

Before concluding the topographical appearances, it would be 
almost unpardonable to omit all mention of the extreme loveliness 
of the situation of the church, and the burying-ground in which it 
stands. The church itself is as plain and ordinary a looking 
building as can well be. It has nothing ornamental or tasteful in 
it, but every thing around is full of exceeding beauty. The square 
burying-ground is surrounded on three sides by fine, old wide- 
spreading plane trees, the first to burst into leaf in spring, and 
most abundant in their foliage. A bay of the Gareloch lies with- 
in a few yards of it, which at full tide is extremely lovely ; and 
the opposite shore and hills of Roseneath are strikingly picturesque 
and beautiful. Saddening as the reflections are which arise when 
standing amidst the ashes of thousands of fellow-beings, it is im- 
possible to look around without feeling the influence of having as 
much exquisite scenery spread before the eye, as it is possible to 
conceive. The situation of the manse is little inferior to that of 
the church, and the view from the Row point, at a little distance 
from the church, is equally delightful. Towards the north, the 
loch stretches itself for a distance of five miles, and the prospect 
is, terminated by the dark, rugged, and lofty hills of Loch Long, 
** noble samples of nature's statuary." Towards the south lies the 
point of Roseneath with its castle, its fine trees, and its gallow- 
hill wooded to the top ; the expanse of the Frith of Clyde, the 
turrets of Ardincaple, and the wooded point of Ardmore. 



68 



DUMBARTONSHIRE. 



Meteorology. — From its uearness to the Frith of Clyde, and the 
Dumerous large lochs in the neighbourhood, the temperature of 
this parish is in general mild in winter. As a proof of this, it 
may be stated, that while the thermometer in the Botanical Gar- 
den at Glasgow fell to 1^® below zero in 1838, it stood here at 15® 
above zero. Another proof of the mildness of the climate is seen 
in the earliness with which the wild flowers make their appear- 
ance. About two years ago, the common primrose was in full 
flower in the side of a spring, near the manse, on the 17th of Ja- 
nuary : and the Bhododendron ponticum matures its seeds, from 
which young plants spring up without any shelter or care. Through 
the kindness of Lord John Campbell, I am enabled to transcribe 
the following tables of obser^^ations made at Ardincaple. 

1832. 





Mean tem- 












perature 


Mean of 


Mean 


Mean 


Inches of 




at 9^ A. H. 


extreme. 


maximum. 


minimum. 


rain. 


January, 


40.61 


40.62 


44.07 


37.17 




February, 


41.12 


41.44 


46.12 


36.77 




March, 


44.55 • 


43.36 


48.83 


37.90 




April, 


50.50 


48.30 


55.90 


42.63 




May, 


55.55 


5191 


62.60 


41.33 




June, 


62.68 


58.41 


66.90 


49.95 




July, 


63.85 


0<7<«JT 


68.53 


50.15 




August, 


62.88 


59.04 


67.60 


50.62 


3.40 


September, 


52.38 


55.36 


61.92 


48.81 


2.40 


October, 


52.25 


49.81 


53.85 


45.80 


7.10 


November, 


43.00 


43.13 


47.67 


38.62 


5.25 


December, 


41.33 


40.76 


1 44.52 

1 


37.00 


6.40 


Means of 


50.892 


49.301 


55.71 


43.012 


4.9! 


the vear. 

• 













1833. 





Mean tem- 












perature 


Mean of 


Mean 


Afean 


Inches of 




at 9^ A. M. 


extreme. 


maximum. 


minimum. 


ram. 


January, 


35.77 


35.88 


40.16 


31.60 


0.80 


February, 


40 38 


40.36 


44.72 


36.00 


6.67 


March, 


40.33 


40.58 


47.27 


33.90 


1.51 


April, 


47.66 


46.08 


52.86 


39.30 


3.10 


May, 


59.26 


52.66 


62.80 


47.52 


2.30 


June, 


60.58 


57.13 


64.70 


49.57 


5.56 


July, 


64.00 


61.61 


70.19 


53.02 


2.60 


A ugust. 


62.45 


55.86 


66.35 


45.37 


1.65 


September, 


56.25 


53.33 


5961 


47.05 


5.15 


October, 


47.54 


49.94 


55.15 


44.73 


4.35 


November, 


43.96 


42.15 


46.98 


37.33 


5.88 


December, 


41.43 


40.60 


44.70 


36.50 


11.00 


Means of 


49.97 


47.919 


54.624 


41.824 


; 4.214 ' 


the year. 










/ 













Ale.D 


Means 






Mean 


Mean 


Mean 




jeightofi ofex- 


RUQ 




temp, a 






temp, of 
at. tber. 




treme 




lnDuary, 


9M-- 


mum. 


mum. 


at noon. 


temp. 




41 .78 


45.70 


37.80 


63.6 


30.042 


41.75 


11. 78 


Feb. 


41.00 


46.06 


36.00 


58.8 


30.4SO 


41.03 


3.85 






50.20 


39.10 


63.4 


30 123 


44.65 


535 




48.6G 


55.56 


40.20 


65.7 


30.760 


47.88 


0.38 


May.' 


56.81 


64.22 


45.42 


68.3 


30J10 


5*82 


2.07 




61.38 


66.80 


50.05 


67.7 


30.316 


58.42 


3.B0 


Fuly, 


M.S5 


71.»] 


53.20 


69.8 


3a 352 


oaao 


2.10 




62.25 


68.81 


56.10 


69.2 


30 418 


62.45 


3.55 


Sept 


56.90 


62.84 


49.49 


67.9 


30.460 


56.16 


3.80 


[>ctober. 


49.90 


55.50 


44.00 


66.6 


30.450 


49.75 


5.60 


Nov. 


44.37 


40.93 


40.18 


644 


30.4 IS 


44.05 


5.00 


Dec. 


43.33 


46.96 


38.51 


644 


30.748 


42.73 


4.82 


Meana of 


51.34 


56.816 


44.17 


65.8 


30.423 


50.49 


4.258 


the ve-r- 

















Ureetest heigbt of the barometer, 31.314 ioches, December 15th. 

Mean annual height of barometer, 30.420. 

Least height of barometer, 29.21 inches, November 89th. 

Mean maximum of thermometer during the year, 56°.816. 

Mean aQnnal temperature at 9} a. h. 51°.34. 

Mean minimum of thermometer during tbe year, 44°.I7. 

Least height of thermometer, 26°, January 29tb. 

Greatest height of thermometer, 63°.5, July 3lBt. 



\nulysis 


,1' K<^mHrk» ma.lL. o 


D the Weatber 


Analysis of Remarks on the 




in Days for tS.14. 


Winds for 1M+. 




s 


^ 
S 


>« 


1 


11 


Ia 


u 


1 
W 


^ 


1 


U 
» 


1 


N' 


1 




lauuary. 


a 


?fi 





3 


15 


If) 


.1 


V 


fl 


] 


fl 


? 








Feb. 


14 


14 


V 


.'• 




li 


2 




M 


?■ 


4 


:< 


3 


ft 


1 


March, 


la 


19 


H 


2 


4i 


10 


7 





41 


4 








S 


ST 


4 


April, 


«« 


4 


4 


7 


11 


« 




o 


2 


» 


i 


fl 





11 


ft 


«ay. 


1+ 


17 


a 


a 


12 


1 


3 





(1 


li 


II 


14 











1? 


IH 


i» 


<l 


10 





9 


1 





ft 


(1 


V 


4 


i>1 


1 


luly. 


IM 


Ui 


J2 


Tli 


in 


2 


2 








7 


7 




;i 


ft 


9 


August, 


1-7 




ti 


V 







1 + 







.1 


If 


4 


n 


f 







141 


14 


4 


+ 


18 





4 


I 


1 


10 


V 




10 






Jctober, 


10 


21 




2 


« 


1 


9 








it 


(1 


(1 


fl 


n 


n 


Sov. 


U 


16 


li 


3 


li 


t 


li 




fi 














Dec 


16 


li 


^ 





12 


7 


7 


ll 





6 




3 


* 


8 


8 


Mean of 


172 


tft.'l 


!■•*■ 


4:^ 


133 54 


7? 


7 lie 


5« 


?fi 


3!) 


.i'^ 


la-^ 


6 


■he j.-,.r 












' 















This parish is but rarely visited with thunder storms ; but for 
the last two winters there has beeo a coosiderable quantity of sheet 



70 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

lightning, and the sky, in the earlier part of the winter particularly, 
is very frequently illuminated by vivid and beautiful streaks of 
variously-coloured aurora borealis. 

Hydrography. — There is no stream that deserves the name of 
a river in the parish of Row. Indeed, with the exception of the 
small stream Fruin, which runs through the glen of that name, and 
&lls into Loch Lomond, about 7 miles from its source, there are 
only a few brooks from the hills, which ^re almost all nearly dry in 
summer. The Clyde, however, skirts its southern boundary, and 
the Gareloch and l^och-Long lie along its western extremity. 
The Gareloch is 6 miles long, and at an average somewhat less 
than a mile in breadth. Its greatest depth is said to be about 23 
fathoms, and its bottom is in general covered with a very fine 
stiff bluish clay, affording excellent anchorage for vessels. The 
extreme beauty of its banks, rather than the virtue of its salt water, 
has long had sufficient attraction to draw many visitors for sea- 
bathing, and of late its shore has become studded with many beau^ 
tiful villas, the property in general of the respectable families who 
come to make them their summer residence. And assuredlv, few 
places can boast of so much to attract and fascinate with its beau- 
tiful scenery. Loch-Long is very much deeper than the Gareloch ; 
it is also considerably broader in that part of it which bounds this 
parish, and, as its name imports, it is much longer, the Gareloch 
having probably received its name of Gare or " short" Loch 
from its being so much shorter than Loch Long. If the Gareloch 
may be vain of the beauty of its banks, Loch Long may be proud 
of its deep black waters, and the majesty of its high and rugged 
mountains. 

Although there are many springs along the sides of the hillsi 
there are none of any consequence, or with any mineral virtues 
that have been turned to any use. The temperature of one or two of 
these has been found to be about 45° both in summer and winter. 

Mineralogy. — In the northern or hilly part of the parish, the 
rocks consist of greywacke, clay slate, and transition limestone. 
Towards the south, are beds of red sandstone, and coarse con- 
glomerate. The connection of these rocks with the coal forma- 
tion has not been well made out. From the circumstance of their 
resting upon the greywacke series, they have generally been sup- 
posed to belong to the old red sandstone. Dr Thomson, however, 
is disposed to consider them as belonging to the new red sandstone. 
Attempts have been made in two places to find coal, but unsuccess- 



ROW. 71 

fully, although a bore was made to the depth of 50 fathoms. The 
ODly appearance of coal was a stratum of crow coal of about an 
inch thick. Gypsum and thin beds of limestone are associated 
with the sandstone, which rises to the height of 334 feet behind 
the town of Helensburgh, and is covered by till or diluvium of a 
whitish constratified clay full of water. There is a blue limestone 
on the top of the slate in Ardenconnel moor and in Glenfruin, in 
which masses of pyrites are fbund. There are also worn boulders, 
either from the rocks of the neighbourhood or from others which 
lie in the north. Greenstone and mica slate abound. In the lower 
part of the parish, resting upon this deposit, are alluvial beds of 
gravel, sand, and clay containing marine shells, indicating a change 
in the relative levels of the sea and land, posterior to the^deposition 
of the diluvium. The shells in general agree with those of the 
adjoining seas. There are, however, amongst them, soma which are 
not known to be identical with any existing species. 

Zoology. — Among the animals which have now become less com- 
mon in many places, there are occasionally found the roe, the fox, 
the badger, the wild-cat, martin, and the squirrel. The following list 
of birds was made up by a very accurate observer, George Camp- 
bell, Esq. Ardincaple: Sparrow-hawk, peregrine falcon, kestrel, mer- 
lin, common buzzard, hen-harrier, kite, short-eared owl, barn-owl, 
tawny-owl, goat-sucker, chimney -swallow, martin, sand-martin, com- 
mon swift, spotted fly-catcher, missel-thrush, fieldfare, song-thrush, 
red-wing, blackbird, moor blackbird, European-dipper, redbreast, 
redstart) black-cap warbler, whitethroat, wood-wren, golden- 
crested wren, great titmouse, blue titmouse, cole titmouse, long- 
tailed titmouse, hedge sparrow, pied wagtail, grey wagtail, yellow 
wagtail, shore-pyet, sky lark, yellow-bunting, corn-bunting, house 
sparrow, chaffinch, mountain-finch, siskin, goldfinch, common 
brown linnet, green grossbeak, common bulfinch, cross-bill, com- 
mon starling, raven, carrion crow, hooded crow, rook, jackdaw, 
magpie, jay, common creeper, common wren, cuckoo, ringdove, 
common pheasant, black grouse, red grouse, partridge, heron, cur- 
lew, redshank, sandpiper, woodcock, common snipe, jack snipe, 
dunlin, corncrake, common gallinule, common coot, oyster-catcher, 
turnstone, water ouzel, green lapwing, golden plover, ringed plover, 
bernacle goose, sheldrake, wild duck, teal, common widgeon, scaup 
pochard, goosander, horned grebe, red-throated diver, bill auk, 
common gull, herring gull. Of these the rarest in the parish are 
the merlin, horned-owl, mountain finch, siskin, sheldrake, coca«vci>x 



72 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

teal, horned grebe, red-throated diver, water-rail, and cross-bill ; 
indeed this last bird has not been observed in the parish till last 
summer, and it is observable that the fir cones, its peculiar food, 
were particularly abundant last year. 

In the lochs, salmon and sea trout are common ; the herring visit 
them early in the season, and are often taken in great abundance, 
particularly in Loch- Long ; cod, whiting, haddock, and seth or 
coal-fish are also abundant, though not so much so as formerly. 
There are a few oysters in the Gareloch, but they are both more 
numerous and larger in Loch- Long. The bottle -nose whale, por- 
poises, otters, and seals, are occasionally seen. About thirty years 
ago, a specimen of the opah or king-fish was taken on the shore 
near Helensburgh, and a few years since a tunny of the enormous 
length of 9 feet, probably the largest that has ever been taken in 
the British seas, was captured in the Gareloch. Both of these have 
been preserved in the Andersonian Museum, Glasgow. 

Botany. — There is a very considerable variety of plants found 
in the parish. Among those which are not very common in Scot- 
land, are : 

Veronica montana Dipsacus sylvestria Spiraea fUipendula 

Circsea alpina Plantago media Thalictrum flavum 

Blysmus rufus Solanum dulcamara Bartsia viscosa 

Eriophorum alpinum Verbascum nigrum Melampyrum sylvadcum 

— gracile Myrrhis odorata Geranium pratense 

Phalaris canariensis Coniiim maculatum Malva sylvestris 

Poa maritima Drosera longifolia Carduus mariaiius 

— nemoralis Rumex alpinus Habenaria viridis 

Festuca ovina Triglociiin maritimum trifolia 

bromoides Adoxa moschatellina Typha angustifolia 

Bromus giganteus Cerastium tetrandrum Curex laevigata 

Montia fontana Pnmus domestica Aspidium lobatum. 

It has been already observed, that the climate is particularly fa- 
vourable for the early appearance of the wild flowers. It spares 
also the garden flowers till late in the season, and last New Year's 
day there were both carnations and ten weeks stock in flower in 
the manse garden ; and in the neighbourhood the gooseberry 
has occasionally a second crop of blossom towards the end of the 
year. Many of the more tender green-house plants stand the 
winter out of doors, and the laurustinus and varieties of laurel thrive 
particularly well. 

II. — Civil History. 
Historical Notices. — The history of this parish has not been il- 
lustrated by any published account excepting the very meagre 
outline contained in Sir John Sinclair's Statistical work. Some 

3 



ROW. 73 

particulars applicable to it will also be found in the Agricultural 
Survey of Dumbartonshire, published in 1811. 

The whole lands now contained within the parish constituted part 
of the original earldom of Lennox. Those which form the eastern 
coast of the Gareloch, extending into Glenfruin, were given by Al- 
wyn, second Karl of Lennox, to his younger son Amelec, in the 
twelfth century. This beautiful estate descended to Walter, son of 
Alan, the great-grandson of Amelec, who became the male represen- 
tative of his house, and who, marrying the heiress of the elder branch, 
continued the line of the family. The mansion or castle seems 
to have been at Faslane, where the mound may still be distinguished 
in the copsewood. Here, according to Blind Harry, Sir William 
Wallace was received and hospitably entertained by his gallant 
comrade Earl Malcolm, after he had sacked Dumbarton, and laid 
the Castle of Roseneath in ashes. We have no notice of Faslane 
Castle after the succession of the Faslane branch to the honours 
of Lennox, and the estate was by degrees feued out in small por- 
tions among a variety of vassals. Towards the northern end of it, 
several cadets of the neighbouring clan Macfarlane thus acquired 
lands on the shore of Loch-Long, while the Gareloch side and 
Glenfruin gradually became almost a colony of Colquhouns. A 
race of small proprietors settled in Glenfruin, and distinguished 
by the patronymic surname of Mac waiter, pretended to a direct 
descent from a younger son of Lennox ; but their illustrious blood 
does not appear ever to have emerged from obscurity. The only 
exception to this description of the bonnet lairds of Row, was the 
Macaulays of Ardincaple. Contemporary with the wars of suc- 
cession and of independence which followed the death of the 
maiden of Norway, were the Ardincaples of that ilk. About two 
centuries later, they assumed the patronymic surname of Macaulay, 
and, gradually extending and condensing their estate, acquired in 
some degree the importance of a clan. Nor was this an empty 
distinction in an age when armed men were the most prized pro- 
duce of the soil, when military service was the best payment 
of mail, and when the muster-roll occupied the place of the rent- 
roll. In few parts of Scotland was this more the case than in 
Dumbartonshire west of the river Leven. The three clans of 
Macfarlane, Macaulay, and Colquhoun, plundered each other, or 
combined to sweep the low country of its flocks and herds. Dur- 
ing the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, the annals of this district 
would present a perpetual recurrence of raid and foray, in wKlcK 



74 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

rapine and sword united to embroil and impoverish the neighbour- 
hood. In these scenes Sir Aulay Macaulay of Ardincaple bore a 
conspicuous part, and the traditions of the country still preserre his 
name with awe. Occasionally other bands of plunderers invaded 
this district, among whom the more remarkable were the Mac- 
gregors, Campbells, Camerons, and Buchanans. One of these 
murderous conflicts was of sufficient importance to merit a place 
in the history of the times, and was fought in Glenfruin in Fe- 
bruary 1603. The older accounts of this transaction bear such 
marks of partiality as to be little worthy of credit, and the tradi- 
tions of the district lead us into great confusion. The recent in- 
quiries of Mr Pitcairn have brought to light a mass of authentic 
information, which will be found in his Criminal Trials. It seems 
enough here to state generally, that Alexander Colquhoun of Liiss, 
having obtained a commission of lieutenancy against ^* thievis, sor- 
naris, and broken men," who infested the Lennox, arrived in his 
country just as it had been invaded by Alister Macgregor of Glen- 
strae at the head of 400 men. Colquhoun rousing his vassals, and 
being assisted by some of the neighbouring lairds, and a number 
of the Dumbarton burghers, came up with the marauders at the 
farm of Strone, near the head of Glenfruin. A desperate combat 
gave victory to the Macgregors. Of their opponents 140 men 
were slain, the laird of Luss narrowly escaping, and many of those 
that fell being, as Calderwood says, landed men of good rank. 
The plunder carried away by the Macgregors consisted of 600 
head of cattle, 800 sheep and goats, and 280 horses. The story 
of some students from Dumbarton having been massacred in cold 
blood, does not seem to be borne out by the records. The arm 
of the law, too long suspended from motives of policy or partiality, 
now descended upon the unhappy Clangregor, more in vengeance 
than in justice. The whole race were proscribed, their name pro- 
hibited, their children exiled from their native land, and it was not 
until 1774 that the many penal enactments against them, which 
defaced the statute book, were finally repealed. After the battle 
of Glenfruin, the country became by degrees more settled. The 
Macgregors had ceased to exist as a clan. The Macaulavs and 
Buchanans were beginning to be less powerful, and the estate of the 
Macfarlanes, poor in every produce but men, was inadequate to 
maintain its lairds in wealth when they could no longer lay their 
neighbours under contribution. The lands of these chiefs have 



ROW. 75 

now mostly passed to strangers, and even the representation of 
their several houses is in a great measure in abeyance. 

Meanwhile, the domain of Luss has extended itself on all sides, 
and, in addition to its having stretched itself over nearly the whole 
territories of Macfarlane and Macaulay, it has swallowed up the 
smaller possessions of a swarm of petty proprietors in the parishes 
of Row, Luss, and Arrochar. Sir James Colquhoun is now in pos- 
session of the whole of this parish, with the exception of the estate 
of Ardincaple, the property and beautiful residence of Lord John 
Campbell. 

Antiquities. — The only buildings of any antiquity of which any 
portion still remains, are a part of the present Castle of Ardincaple^ 
supposed to have been built about the twelfth century and the 
imperfect walls of a chapel at Faslane. The author of Caledonia 
says that this chapel was dedicated to St Michael. The date and 
occasion of its erection are unknown, but it is probable that it was 
built for the convenience of the Lennox, while they were either con* 
stant or occasional residents at their castle of Faslane. Attach- 
ed to the chapel is a burying-ground, which has now almost ceased 
to be used. Of Faslane Castle, only the mound raised by its 
foundation is distinguishable. Similar traces of another castle 
called Shandon, are discoverable on the hill side above the mo- 
dem house of Shandon. Its name, ^^ The Old Dun,** would lead 
to the supposition, that it was a still more ancient strong-hold than 
the castle of Faslane. But tradition has handed down no memo- 
rial regarding it to the present times, nor have any relics been 
found among its ruins to lead to any information concerning it. 

Besides the Chapel of Faslane, there were of old three other 
chapels within the bounds of the parish ; one of them in Glcn- 
fruin, either near the school-house there, or more probably on 
the farm of Balnock, on which there are still some remains of a 
burying-ground called Chapel Dermid. The other two were in 
the barony of Millig; the one of them on the farm of Kirk- 
michael, which has received its name from the saiot to whom the 
chapel was dedicated, and the other on the farm of Millig, called 
also after the same saint, and till of late presenting some ruins. 

Until a very few years ago, the only good houses in the parish 
were Ardincaple Castle, and the mansion house of Ardenconnel. 
Now, however, there are many very beautiful ones along the banks 
of the Gareloch, built on perpetual feu from the lands of Sir James 
Colquhoun. 




76 DUMBARTONSHIRE, 

IIL — Population. 
In consequence of the very meagre and imperfect records of 
the parish, there are no means of ascertaining the population at 
remote and regular dates. In the former Statistical Account 
of the parish, it is said, that the number of inhabitants was 853 ; 
but it is not stated at what period this census was taken. About 
ninety years ago the number amounted to 1300, and about 6fty 
years before this present date, it appears to have fallen to 1000. 
There can be little doubt that this decrease of 300 was owing to 
the enlargement of the farms and the ousting of cottars. In the 
Glenfruin district alone, it is almost within the memory of indivi- 
duals still alive, that there were 45 families of farmers, besides 
a number of cottars ; now there are only 10 of farmers and 4 of 
cottars. In consequence, however, of the very rapid growth of 
the town of Helensburgh, the population doubled itself within 
the last forty years previous to 1831. It was in that year 2037. 
From 1831 till 1835, there was an additional increase of about 
400, chiefly from the still greater growth of Helensburgh ; though 
partly also from the building of villas and cottages on the Gareloch. 
The present population may amount to about 2600. Of this num- 
ber the burgh of Helensburgh contains 1400 ; the remainder are 
scattered over the landward part of the parish, and can scarcely be 
said to be in any part of it, a village population, unless indeed the 
few houses in the neighbourhood of the church of Row, and the 
increasing clump of cottages at Gareloch-head, may be called vil- 
lages. 

The average number of births may be about, . . 50 

The average of deaths, - - - between 40 and 50 

The number of marriages, - - - - 24 

In Helensburgh in the year 1835, there were under 

5 years of age, - . Males, 95 Females, 94 

From 5 to 15, 

15 to 25, 

25 to 35, - . - 

85 to 45, - - - 

45 to 55, 

55 to 65, 

65 to 75, 

75 to 85, - - - . 

85 and upwards, . . . 

Total; 672 717 

Of the females above 45 there were unmarried, 22 ; widows, 45. 
Of the males above 50, there were 9 bacrhelors and 10 widowers. 

Though we have stated the resident population of the parish to 
be 2600, it is increased by more than a half, probably two-thirds 



173 


157 


114 


134 


103 


119 


81 


97 


54 


51 


23 


34 


14 


21 


11 


9 


4 


1 



ROW. 77 

of this number during about five months in the year, from the 
number of families who come for summer quarters and sea-bath- 
ing. 

The only nobleman in the parish is Lord John Campbell, who 
usually resides at his seat of Ardincaple. But there is a consider- 
able number of wealthy and independent families who have resi- 
dences in it, and remain either the whole or the half of the year. 

Language, — It would appear that, two centuries ago, or later, 
Gaelic must have been the language usually spoken. The first mi- 
nister of the parish was at that time appointed to the charge in con- 
sequence of his being able to preach in the Irish or Gaelic. At 
present, however, that language has rightly given way to English, 
and is not spoken except by a very few families, who have brought 
it with them from their birth-place in' the Highlands. 

Like most of the districts in the neighbourhood of the High- 
lands, smuggling seems to have prevailed some time ago to a con- 
siderable extent. But, for some years, this degrading and demora- 
lizing habit has been rapidly decreasing, and now it has almost 
ceased to be practised. It is much to be wished that the same thing 
may be said of poaching. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — With the exception of Glenfruin, which is capa- 
ble of being cultivated much more extensively than it is, the great- 
er part of the land capable of bearing crops to any advantage, is 
either constantly or occasionally under cultivation. This, liow- 
ever, bears a very inconsiderable proportion to the whole extent 
of the parish. Within the last thirty years, there has been a very 
great improvement in the character and extent of the husbandry ; 
chiefly from additional draining and fencing. But very much re- 
mains to be done in these respects, and the farmers both feel the 
evil, and look to the proprietor for more encouragement than they 

have hitherto had. 

Of late, considerable and increasing attention has been paid to 

the breeding of cattle, both for the dairy and for feeding. Those 
for the dairy were, till within the last fifty years, mostly of the High- 
land breed. But now, with the exception of some of the moor- 
land farms, they are almost all of the Ayrshire, though not very 
pure. The cattle fed for the market are of the West Highland 
stock, and both kinds promise to be still further improved, in con- 
sequence of the late formation of an agricultural association of the 
parish of Row, Luss, and Arrochar. 



78 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Bent — The average rent of arable land per acre may be stated 
at L. I, 5s, the highest at L. 3. Average rent to the farmer of 
grazing a full-grown ox or milk-cow is about L. 6 ; of black cat- 
tle, not housed in winter, L. 3, 10s. 

The sheep are almost all of the black-faced breed. There are, 
however, a few Cheviots. The average rate of grazing a full-grown 
one to the farmer is about 5s. Male farm-servants who live with the 
farmer, receive at an average L. 8 in the half-year, and female farm- 
servants receive L. 4. Masons, carpenters, and other artisans are 
usually paid ds. 6d. per day. Leases run for the term of nine- 
teen years, and hitherto they have not been understood to have 
been very unfavourable to the tenant, A few of the farm-build- 
ings may be considered as tolerably good. But the greater num- 
ber of them are very much otherwise. It can scarcely be said that 
there are any unconquerable obstacles in the way of a much great- 
er improvement of the land. With the facility of obtaining ma- 
nure from Greenock, and lime in the parish, and from Ireland by 
sea, willing tenants, and an encouraging landlord, might consider- 
ably change the face of the fields to the better. But both land- 
lord and tenant must move together. 

Quarries. — Lime is occasionally wrought, but in consequence 
of the superior quality of the Irish lime, and the facility and cheap- 
ness of its carriage by water, the lime quarries in the parish are 
neither constantly nor extensively worked. Slate also has been 
occasionally wrought, but it, too, is inferior in quality^ and therefore 
little called for. In the southern part of the parish^ there is a 
coarse freestone, occasionally quarried for building. All attempts 
to obtain coal have failed. 

Fisheries. — The fisheries in the Gareloch and Loch-Long are 
not very profitable, nor much attended to, except for a short time 
during the spring and early part of the summer. Neither the 
quarries nor the fisheries, therefore, add much to the produce ofthe 
parish. Nor does it grow more grain, with the exception, perhaps, 
of a little barley, than is sufficient for the consumption of the in- 
habitants, and the use ofthe farmer's establishments. There may 
be about L. 1000 worth of potatoes sent out of the parish yearly, 
and L. 500 worth of hay. These sums, with the addition of some- 
what more than L. 100 from the timber and copse-wood cut, may 
probably be conceived as the whole produce of the parish, not con- 
sumed or used in itself. The rental of the parish may amount to 
between L. 4000 and L. 5000, nine-tenths of which is drawn by 



ROW. 79 

Sir James Colquhoun — who probably receives upwards of L. 1 500 
additional arising from the feus in Helensburgh and the landward 
part of the parish. 

There are no manufactures or public works in the parish, and 
consequently a great want of employment for the many individu- 
als in Helensburgh, whose labours are but partially required in the 
neighbourhood. There are a few coasting and coal vessels, but 
these are inconsiderable in number. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

The only town in the parish is Helensburgh, a rapidly increas- 
ing watering-place. It was founded by the first Sir James Col- 
quhoun, and was named in honour of his wife Lady Helen Suther- 
land. It was created a burgh of barony by charter in the year 
1802, and has a provost, two bailies, and four councillors. It 
has the privilege of holding a weekly market and four annual fairs. 
There is a small and incommodious pier, principally used by the 
steam-boats, of which several sail daily to Glasgow. There is also 
a daily post from Dumbarton and Greenock. The turnpike road 
from Dumbarton to Arrochar traverses the parish for about sixteen 
miles. A new line of road from Helensburgh across the hill to 
Luss and Balloch ferry, affords an easy communication with these 
places. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The greater part of this parish was at one 
time included in the older parish of Roseneath, and an appendage 
of the Abbey of Paisley. The remainder of it was an annexation 
from the old parish of Cardross, which formerly stretched along 
Glenfruin, and crossed at the top of the glen to the shore of the 
upper part of Gareloch, and also to a part of the coast of Loch- 
Long. Before the formation of this parish, the Presbytery of 
Dumbarton, the General Assembly, and the Commissioners for 
planting of Kirks, took various plans into consideration from the 
year 1639 and following years, for the purpose, not only of reme- 
dying the inconveniences arising from the extent and anomalous 
boundaries of Roseneath and Cardross, but also for making the 
new parish of Row from a part of both. In 1643, Cardross received 
lands from Roseneath towards the west as far as its present boundary, 
and gave up in exchange Glenfruin and the lands on the shores 
of Lochs Long and Gare. And in 1648 the boundaries of the new 
parish of Row were finally settled, and a deed of erection for the 
church was procured and immediately acted upon. In this year 
also Mr Archibald McLean, the first minibter, was translated to 



80 DUMBABTONSHIRE. 

it from the parish of Kingarth. It appears that the formation of 
this parish was mainly or rather wholly owing to the laird of Ar- 
diucaple, who generously built the church at his own expense, be- 
sides giving land for it and for the glebe. Whether the situation 
of the church was ever a convenient one for the inhabitants is 
more than questionable, from its position on the western skirts of 
the parish, and its being twelve miles from its northern termination. 
Now, however, that the burgh of Helensburgh and its immediate 
neighbourhood have a population of about 1600, and those at the 
distance of between two and three miles from the church, there 
can be no doubt as to its present inconvenient locality. The 
present church was built in 17Gd, and an addition made to it in 
1827. There are nearly 700 sittings, the larger portion of which 
are common. The present manse was built in 1829. The glebe 
contains about 10 acres, and is worth L. 20 per annum. The 
amount of stipend is 98 bolls of meal, and L. 55, including com- 
munion elements. Its average for the last six years has been 
L.136, 5s. lid. 

Last summer a church in connection with the Establishment 
was built at Gareloch -head, about six miles from the parish church. 
It must, however, continue for some time merely a preaching sta- 
tion, in consequence of a want of on endowment, and the difficulty 
of obtaining a bond for the stipend of an ordained minister. It is, 
however, an essential blessing to that district of the parish, and is 
a gratifying memorial of the liberality of many of the generous 
feuars in the parish, by whose large subscriptions it was chiefly 
built. 

There is one place of worship in Helensburgh in connection 
with the Old Light Burghers, and another in connection with the 
Independents. The stipend of both of the ministers arises from 
the seat-rents and collections on Sabbaths. That of the first 
amounts to L. 100, and of the second to L. 70. The number of 
communicants in the Established Church amounts to 600 ; that 
of the Old Light Burghers from this and the neighbouring parishes 
of Cardross and Roseneath, amounts to 115; those of the Inde- 
pendents to 32. 

Education. — There are at present 8 schools in the parish. Of 
these, one is the parochial school, situated near the church of Row. 
The salary of the teacher amounts to L. 36; and the school fees 
average about L. 30. Two of the remaining ones are endowed 
each with L. 10 annually, arising from a piece of land in Glen- 



ROW. 81 

fruin, mortified for this purposeaboutseventy years ago by Mr Glen of 
Portincaple. Three others are assisted with yearly donations, and 
in one of them sewing and knitting alone are taught The re- 
maining two are wholly unassisted, and one of them is iii a great 
measure a boarding establishment There is no part of the pa- 
rish so far from some one of the schools as to feel any serious in- 
convenience from its distance from the means of education, and 
the consequence is that there is not perhaps a single individual 
born in the parish and upwards of ten years of age, who cannot 
read. There are, however, a few grown persons, that have come to 
reside in the parish who cannot read. 

There is a public library in Helensburgh of considerable extent, 
and a congVegational one connected with the Established Church, 
formed about three years ago. 

Savings Bank. — A savings bank has been established for some 
years in Helensburgh. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — At present, there are 26 individuals 
upon the regular poor's roll. Of these, 4 are orphans and one 
insane. But there are almost alwayl^ several individuals or families 
who receive occasional aid to a considerable extent The regu- 
lar poor receive from 6s. to L. 1 a quarter, according as their cir- 
cumstances and merits may require. The sum given annually to 
the regular and occasional poor, for some years, averages nearly 
L. 120. This amount is obtained without any assessment The 
ordinary Sabbath day collections yield about L. 80. The remainder 
is got from the rent of a few sittings let in behalf of the poor, from 
marriage and mortcloth dues, and from the interest arising from 
a small fund belonging to the poor. The expenditure, however, 
is now threatening to exceed the inconie, and must ere long do so, 
unless some means are taken to arrest the increase of the grow- 
ing number of paupers; and by far the most effectual means would 
be to introduce some public works, and curtail both the facilities 
and the places for dram -drinking. There is still a disposition on 
the part of the poor of a respectable character to refrain from ask- 
ing parochial aid, except under strong necessity. But with those 
of idle and intemperate habits there is scarcely a shadow of such 
delicacy either here or any where else. The dram-drinker has 
usually drowned every good feeling in his progress to poverty. 

There is a lock-up house in the parish. But there is no regu* 
lar jail, although there is frequent occasion for it for the visitors of 
the public houses, particularly for the drunken vagrants who visit 

DUMBARTON. F 



82 DUMDARTONSIIIRE, 

and linger about the parish in great numbers during the summer 
months, and are now also becoming very numerous at all seasons. 
Did those who are melted by their squalid wretchedne<(s, when 
they come to their doors, see how much of their charity is spent 
in whisky, it is probable that they would limit their benevolence 
of this kind, and bestow it upon the more deserving poor among 
themselves. 

Innsj Sfc. — There are about 30 public-houses in the parish, a 
far greater number than ought to have been licensed among a |k>- 
pulation of so inconsiderable an amount. Nine of them are on the 
Garelochside, where one or at most two would have been abun- 
dantly sufficient. Considering the rapidity with which habits of 
drunkenness are increasing everywhere, it is much to be wished 
that some efTectual means could be resorted to for checking this 
fearfully ruinous vice. Surely our courts of Justices have few things 
brought before them more worthy of their serious consideration 
than the licensing of public houses, many of which are unquestion- 
ably public nuisances, as well as scenes of great degradation. It 
would be a bitter insult to many neighbourhoods to allege that 
they require as many tippling-houses as are actually thrust in 
among them, and that too with the concurrence of a court of grave 
deliberators, who have both law and conscience on their side in 
restricting the number of these pest-houses. 

Fuel. — In several of the farm-houses peats are still burnt, but 
coal is now becoming more common even in them, and it is the 
only fuel burnt in Helensburgh and the numerous villas along the 
Loch side. The coal is usually brought from the neighbourhood 
of Glasgow, though occasionally a little of it is brought from the 
Ayrshire coast. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
This parish has undergone very considerable changes since the 

last Statistical account was written. The extent of land under 
wood has been a good deal increased, especially on the estate of 
Ardincaple. The extent of cultivation is greatly enlarged. The 
system of husbandry is much improved, and the fertility of the soil 
much increased. Helensburgh, from being a village with 100 in- 
habitants, is now a town with many excellent houses, and a popu- 
lation of 1400 people. The Garelochside, instead of having x)nly 
a few farm and cot-houses along it, is now studded with many taste- 
ful villas, and ornamented shrubberies and gardens. The eight heri- 
tors among whom the parish was divided are now dwindled down to 



CARDROSS. 83 

two, the possessions of the other six having been added to the large 
and beautiful estates of Luss. The two schools, on the contrary, 
have been increased to eight, and the population of the parish had 
been multiplied from 1000 to about 2600. 1 he Gaelic is less 
spoken than it then was ; but the inns and tippling-houses have 
been increased from 1 1 to about 30. In consequence of the fre- 
quent daily communications by steam, and the many respectable 
and well educated families that now reside here during the summer 
months, especially, the manners and habits of the parishioners must 
have undergone a considerable change ; but it may be a question 
whether the more simple, and in some respects, at least, the more 
religious habits of the olden mce, have received any adequate equi- 
valent from those of a more modern growth. 

January 1839. 



PARISH OF CARDROSS. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. WILLIAM DUNN, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural IIistoky. 
Name. — The parish of Cardross derives its name from the 
ancient site of its church, on the point formed by the rivers Leven 
and Clyde. Ross, " the point,** Car^ " of the muirish ridge,** is 
a purely Celtic etymology? probably not inappropriate to the ori- 
ginal aspect of the place, and borne out by the analogy of other 
names in the vicinity. 

Extenty Sfc, — Bounded on the south by the Clyde, its modern 
extent stretches westward from that point along the shores of the 
Clyde, until it joins the parish of Row, near Helensburgh. On 
the north, its boundary with Luss and Bonhill parishes follows the 
ridge of hills in an easterly direction, till above Kenton it descends 
upon the Leven, which river forms its eastern limit. Its greatest 
length is 8 miles, and its breadth varies from 1^ to 3 miles, giving 
a surface of about 16 square miles. 

• The Rev. Archibald Wilson, the late Incumbent, having been in infirm health, 
the foUowing account of the parish of Cardross was drawn up, at his request, by 
James Dennistoun of Dennistoun, Esq. 



84 DUMBARTONSHIUE. 

Surface. — The superficial character of the ground does not ad- 
mit of much variety, rising on either hand from the Clyde and 
the Leven by a gradual ascent The ridge thus formed does not 
present much irregularity, and is not intersected by any valleys of 
importance, nor by any considerable streams or lakes. Its greatest 
elevation, at the summits of the Kiliter and Carman, is 943 feet. 
In tracing the shores of the Clyde, we find extensive banks of blue 
adhesive clayj stretching more than half across the bed of the river, 
which is from one to two miles wide. They are covered with a 
few inches of sand interspersed with shingly stones, and are over- 
flowed at high water. By judicious embankments a large portion 
of this unprofitable surface might be gained and improved. The 
only remarkable feature on this coast is Ardmore, "the great pro- 
montory," which forms a conspicuous object in the Frith. Ori- , 
ginally an insulated rock in the river, the gradually receding waters 
have left it surrounded by a considerable flat, and united to the 
mainland by a narrow isthmus. The rock is nearly circular, rising 
precipitously about 40 feet, and afibrding on the top a table of 
good soil. It is a muddy red breccia or puddingstone, imbedding 
rounded pebbles chiefly of quartz, being the same formation'with 
the nearest point of the Kiliter range, from which it is distant 
about half a-mile. This head-land may be considered the limit of 
the river Clyde on the northern shore, as the Frith here suddenly 
doubles in breadth, and assumes the character of an arm of the sea 
Geology. — The geological character of this parish belongs to the 
secondary formation. The predominating rock is freestone, which 
towards the east end is of a reddish colour and friable quality. At 
Keppoch it occurs of a bluish gray colour and better description, 
in contact with the breccia of the Kiliter, which we have already 
described. It is remarkable that both of these run in parallel lines 
or dikes to the north- eastward ; the former appearing at TulH- 
chewan, Balloch, and Buchanan, while the latter can easily be 
traced from Ardmore, by the Kiliter and Inchmurrin, to Balmaha. 
On the north-western side of the Kiliter, we find a considerable 
dike of jasper, of a coarse hard quality, interposed between the 
breccia and the sandstone, the latter of which again appears on the 
estate of CamisEskan, containing veins of limestone. This last 
occurs in the glens, and has occasionally been worked; but its ad- 
mixture with sand and magnesian earth renders it better for the pur- 
poses of building than for manure. 

Soil — The soil is generally of a light gravelly description. 



CARDROBS. 



85 



sparingly covered with vegetable mould. This is particularly the 
case towards the shores of the Clyde, where, in some instances, it 
is thinly strewn upon the rock. On the higher land ii becomes 
deeper, and often rests upon till. The hills present a surface of 
elevated moor, rarely interrupted by moss or rock, a considerable 
part of which might be rendered arable. The vale of Leven con- 
sists of a channelly alluvial soil, of snificient depth and fertile qua- 
lity. 

Climate, — The climate is healthy, and free from predisposing 
tendency to any particular diseases. It partakes of the same ge. 
neral character which is observable over the soulli-west coast of 
Scotland, being mild arid humid, with frequent showers rather 
than heavy rains. Frost is seldom severe or long-continued, and 
heavy falls of snow are almost unknown. The annexed table, 
constructed from careful observntion by Mr Dunlop of Keppoch, 
will afford a view of the weather for the seven years from 1826 to 
i832.» 



BimmiMr 


I'herm 


umi-wr. 


WiiiJs. 


U«.Ih«- 




Yan. 


1 




1 


! 


2 


2 


2 
z 


2 


e 

'3 


k 


■/= 




1826 




a 




is 


■17 


78 


l.ltl 


111 


■m 


nu 


19S 


m 


1827 


wm 


77 


19 


■•i'i 


HR 


i,>.1 


ii-1 


MH 


IN7 


124 


.VI 


1828 




28,Ws 


Rl 


•23 


*l 


Hf 


l"7 


HT 


19 


l<>4 


117 


,=■^1 


IflSO 


»S 




76 


ai 




















a 


29tWi 


7G 










m 










IS3I 




7!) 




as 


!in 


I.W 


(iH 


rfi 


l»2 


[lli 


^7 


1832 


*v3 


•^^ 


76 


■it 


m 


02 


1(>J 


4^) 


V 


ItW 





11. — Civil History. 

No general history of this parish has been given t^t the public. 
There have, however, been compiled two sbitistical accounts of 
Dumbartonsbire,-from which much information applicable to Car- 
dross, may be collected. The former of these was drawn up bv 
Mr David Ure for the Board of Agriculture in 1794; the other 
was. published in 1611, and was the Joint production of the Re- 
verend Andrew White, minister of Kilmarnock, and the Very llo- 
verend Principal Macfarlan of the University of Glasgow. The 
localities of the parish may also be illustrated from the map of the 
county as surveyed by Mr John Wood in 1818. 

Situated at a distance from the capital, and from all the usual 
royal residences, as well as from the ceaseless wars that ravaged 

* Mr DuiilupN tabic siiicf 1832 iirewnts very aimilar tctuIIs, and reed nut Ins 
added. 



86 DUMBARTONSHIRF. 

the border counties, Dumbartonshire was seldom agitated by the 
events that belong to the page of national history. To the parish 
of Cardross this want of historic interest belongs in a remarkable 
degree, as it rarely was the scene even of those petty struggles, 
by which rival chiefs of robber clans occasionally disturbed the 
peace of the neighbourhood. Its peasantry were not unfrequently 
visited by these mountain marauders, at the expense of their cattle 
and stock of all sorts, but their pacific habits prevented them alike 
from defence and retaliation upon their lawless visitors. It is, 
therefore, from family records and private incidents that the course 
of events in this parish during past ages must be traced; and 
among these the genealogist will find enough to reward his re- 
searches. 

Eminent Men, — The families particularly worthy of notice are 
those of Dennistoun of Dennistoun, Spreul of Dalquhum, Napier 
of Kllmahew, Bontine of Ardoch, Noble of Ardardan, and Smol- 
lett of Bonhill.* The last has been illustrated by Sir James 
Smollett, a commissioner for the union in 1707^ and a politician 
of considerable adroitness; and still more by his grandson, Dr 
Tobias Smollett, one of the greatest names in Scottish literature. 
A Tuscan column connects his memory with his native vale, and 
an authentic memoir, prefixed to Dr Anderson's edition of his 
works, will supply to his admirers those particulars of his life, 
which want of space compels us here to omit* No portrait of 
either of these distinguished men is found in the possession of 
their representative, and unfortunately the family papers contain 
very few remains of the author of Roderick Random. The family 
of Mr Dunlop of Keppoch, although recently settled in Dumbar- 
tonshire, has given to the Church and universities of Scotland, a 
perhaps unexampled succession of distinguished ornaments. Prin- 
cipal Carstairs was nearly related to them by marriage, and Mr 
Dunlop possesses many of his original papers, which are not no- 
ticed in the published selection. He also has at Keppoch an ori- 
ginal portrait of Carstairs, and the thumbikins by which he was 
tortured.f 

Antiquities. — Did our limits permit us to enter at large upon 

• The families of Dennistoun, and Spreul, and Napier have now left the parish ; 
and to this list maybe added Campbell of ('amis Eskan, Geils of Geilstoun, and 
Buchanan of Drumhead. 

t From the correspondence of Principal Dunlop, the curious fact appears, thut in 
the name of the Darien Company, he bargained with the surrounding proprietors to 
retain Keppoch Bay as the harbour for their shipping. 



CARDIIOSS. 87 

the history of landed property, and the genealogies of its proprie- 
tors, we might collect much to interest the lovers of such details : 
but in the absence of other striking objects of antiquity, we shall 
notice only the hunting-seat of King Robert Bruce, at which he 
spent the close of his glorious life, and where he died of leprosy 
in 1329. The wooded knoll, at the first milestone from Dum- 
barton along the Cardross road, bears the name of Castlehill, al- 
though there have not been any ruins visible in the memory of 
persons now alive. Retiring from the cares of government, this 
chivalrous monarch here sought the relaxation of the chase, va- 
ried by excursions on the water, for both of which the spot was 
well adapted, while it was protected by the neighbouring fort of 
Dumbarton. The interest which attaches to the favourite resi- 
dence of the Bruce is enhanced by the preservation, in the ac- 
counts of the high chamberlain, of many notices exhibiting the 
domestic arrangements of a royal abode in 1328. These have 
been given to the public in their original form, in the appendixes 
to Tytler's History of Scotland, Vol. ii. and to Pinkerton's History 
Vol. ii. The following specimens will be intelligible to the gene- 
ral reader : — To green olive oil for painting the royal chamber, 
10s. ; to chalk for painting it, 6d. ; to a chalder of lime for white- 
washing it, 8s. ; to tin nails and glass for the windows, 3s. 4d. ; 
to seeds for the orchard, Is. 6d. ; to a house for the falcons, 2s. ; 
to a net for fish, 40s. ; to bringing the King's great ship from 
Tarbat, 28s. ; to two masts for the ships, 8s. ; to conveying Peter 
the fool to Tarbart, Is. 6d. * 

Modern Buildings, — The mansion-houses in the parish of Car- 
dross do not present any remarkable features ; those of Ardoch and 
Kilmahew, now abandoned, are indifferent specimens of the old 
Scottish country house ; that of Camis Eskan has grown, by fre- 
quent additions, into a commodious residence ; those of Keppoch 
and Ardmore are modern and comfortable buildings. Bloomhill 
House, recently built, the seat of Alexander Ferrier, Esq. is per- 
haps the most beautiful villa on the Clyde. 

Parochial Registers. — The only parochial registers are those of 
births and marriages, which have been preserved since 1687. 

III. — Population. 
The increase of population from 1821 to 1831, as exhibited by 

• It is almost unnecessary to remark, that these sums arc in Scottish money, being 
in value one-twelfth part of the corresponding sums in the Sterling coin. The Tarbart 
here meant is on Lochfyne. 



88 



DUMBAUTONSHIRE. 



the government census, is 491. It has taken place chiefly in the 
villages of Ronton and Bridgend ; but the hamlet of Cardross has, 
during the same period, received considerable accessions. The 
return of 1831 may be thus classified : 

Houses. Families. Moles. Females. Totol persons. 



Renton, 

Bridffend, 

Landward, 



185 

35 

154 



349 
134 
190 



896 
286 
555 



902 
349 
546 



I860 

635 

1101 



Total, 374 673 1739 1857 3SC6 

From 1824 to 1831 inclusive, the yearly average of registered 
births was 64? ; of marriages, 25?. No register of deaths is kept 
The following table exhibits the only return of ages and occupa- 
tions, taken up in 1831. 

Number of illegitimate births in the parish during the three 
years preceding 1839, 26. 



Occopations of families. 



Males Superan. Female 

above 20. males. servants. 

Renton, 403 29 21 

Bridgend, 124 12 14 

Landward, 283 22 78 



Agricul- 
ture. 

53" 

7 
95 



Trade. 

174 
63 
30 



Other occu- 
pations. 

15 
64 
65 



Total, 810 63 113 155 267 251 

No peers are landholders in this parish ; the landed proprietors 
are 13» and most of them resident. All their rentals are above 
L. 50 a- year. 

Character of the People^ §*c. — No Gaelic has been spoken in 
the parish for some generations past The people generally are 
m circumstances of comfort ; and the influx of strangers to the 
sea coast, and to the works on the Leven, has introduced a taste 
for dress not known in the more remote parts of Scotland. On 
the whole, they are contented and respectable, and it is hoped 
their character is improving. In particular, illicit distillation, for- 
merly the bane of the district, has entirely ceased. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — 

Number of acres imperial, either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, about . 6500 

constantly waste or in pasture, about 
that might be cultivateid with profit, about 
under wood, about ..... 

The progress of agricultural improvement throughout this 
parish wa^, until lately, somewhat tardy. It is true that near 
Dumbarton were some small properties, belonging for several 
centuries to substantial burghers of that town, who, while they 



4000 

2000 

300 



CARDB0S8. 89 

spent upoD these the time they could spare from the pursuits of 
trade, brought aloog with them a share of its profits to aid in 
** subduing the soil." But, generally speaking, land was owned 
by lairds, whose scanty rentals gave them little opportunity for 
speculative ameliorations, and was occupied, in minute subdivisions, 
by a race of wretched cottars, whose utmost hope was to scourge 
out of their crofts a bare pittance for the support of their nume- 
rous families, after paying in kind the stipulated maiL In the 
absence of all demand for labour, nothing flourished but indolence 
and idleness ; and as the few necessaries of life were obtained 
chiefly by barter, the circulation of money was scarcely known. 
A slight change for the better succeeded the rebellion of 1745; 
but until the end of last century, the outlay of proprietors scarcely 
extended beyond the mains or home- farm ; and the system of small 
possessions was rarely disturbed. During the last forty years, how- 
ever, improvement has advanced with rapid strides. Several of 
the ancient landholders have increased their wealth from incidental 
sources, while others have sold their estates to persons possessing 
the means of turning them to better account The money which 
they have thus been enabled to spend on roads, inclosures, build- 
ings, and agriculture, has not only augmented the actual value of 
the soil, but has, by circulating through the district, laid the foun- 
dation of capital, which, rapidly accumulating from the annual re- 
turns of produce, has given to the tenantry the means of co-ope- 
rating with their landlords. Large tracts of waste land have thus 
been brought into tillage, while that which was formerly cultivated 
has been rendered infinitely more productive by draining, level- 
ling, and manuring.* The cottaries have been converted into 
farms ; the crofts into convenient fields : the use of drift sea-weed 
has either been superseded by lime and dung, produced in the 
farm-yards or imported from Greenock, or, where it is continued, 
it is purified by being rotted into composts. The ancient occu- 
piers, in order to make way for substantial tenants, have, from 
starving on their pendicles, been converted into day-labourers or 
artisans, and so enabled to earn a comfortable subsistence. Sub- 
stantial steadings have replaced the dry-stone hovels of this class, 
and begin to engraft upon the proverbial filth of Scotland habits 
of neatness and comfort. In these, as well as in many other re- 

• Draining, on the improved system, has been lately carried on to a large extent 
by Mr Campbell of Camis Eskan and other proprietors, and is now in very general 
ufe in the parish. 



I 



90 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

spects which cannot here be particularized, a great change has 
been progressively effected, and continues in each year to advance, 
on ever}' estate where either the high moorlands, or the neglected 
shores, present opportunity for extending the operations of the 
plough. In a few places, however, the inconvenience of small 
possessions, and occupiers destitute of capital and spirit, continues 
to be felt ; and in others, short leases, in which no order of culti- 
vation is enjoined, still permit the abuses of the old system. But 
most of the new tacks are drawn for nineteen years, and stipulate 
for the most approved rotation of crops, and in almost every in- 
stance for a fixed money- rent 

Live-Stock. — Although a considerable extent of the parish con- 
sists of moorland pasture, it is employed in grazing cattle or sheep 
purchased from the Western Highlands, rather than in breeding 
them. The low country is in many respects well adapted for dairy 
husbandry, although in very dry summers the grass on the light 
soils occasionally gives way. It has not, however, been much al- 
lotted to this object, although most of the tenants, to a certain 
extent, combine this branch of rural economy with their method 
of agriculture \ and more attention has lately been paid to it, by 
introducing animals of the finest breed from Ayrshire and other 
dairy districts, and by cultivating the most approved bulbous roots 
and green crops. The indigenous horses were of a small size, 
between the cart-horse and the Highland poney, and combining 
the faults of both. The race has been improved by a cross with 
the Clydesdale stock ; and those now bred in the district are of a 
serviceable quality, although, in so hilly a district, the judicious 
introduction of " a dash of blood'" might probably be of advantage. 
Stock of all sorts is improving, under the auspices of an agricul- 
tural association recently formed in the county, in connection with 
the Highland Society of Scotland. 

Woods. — The district of Dumbartonshire west of Leven is re- 
markably adapted for the growth of wood, particularly of oak, 
copse, and the evidence of various ancient charters attests that 
here were situated the principal forests of the Lennox. In Car- 
dross, however, the extent of natural wood is now not great, and 
until lately it has been too much neglected. The most thriving 
woods are on the estates of Dalquhurn and Camis Eskan, the lat- 
ter of which have been considerably extended by plantations chiefly 
of larch and fir, but into which oak has now been introduced. 
Some land has also been planted of late on the estates of Mildovan, 



CARDROSS. 91 

Kilmakewy Ardoch, and Kipperminsbock, but upon tbe whole 
planting bas not as yet been sufficiently attended to. 

Fisheries. — Tbe salmon-fisbings of tbe Leven were formerly of 
considerable value, but are now mucb fallen off. Tbey belong to 
tbe corporation of Dumbarton, and to Sir James Colquhoun of 
Luss, but tbey scarcely fall witbin this parish. The practice of 
fishing by stake-nets on the shores of the river was some years 
ago suppressed by a judgment of tbe Supreme Court ; but bag- 
nets have very lately been introduced in the open Frith below 
Ardmore, and promise to render very valuable salmon-fishings 
which have hitherto not been available to the proprietors. Of the 
yairs mentioned in the former Statistical Account of this parish, 
those of Ardmore and Colgrain are kept up, but they are no longer 
of any value beyond the casual supply of a few salmon or trouts. 

Manufactures. — The only manufactures of Cardross are those 
of Renton on the Leven, and consist of calico-printing and bleach- 
ing. These branches are carried on to a great extent along this 
river, whose pure water and powerful stream are'peculiarly adapted 
for them ; but as most of the works are situated in Bonhill, refer- 
ence is made to tbe notice of them contained in the account of 
that parish. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market-Towns. — The only market-town in this district is Dum- 
barton, adjacent to the eastern extremity of this parish ; but there 
is a good deal of communication with those of Greenock and Port- 
Glasgow, on the other side of the Clyde, and a ready consump- 
tion is found for the produce of the western portion of the parish 
at the thriving watering village of Helensburgh. The villages are 
Renton, already mentioned as the site of a manufacturing popu- 
lation (which was founded in 1782 by Mrs Smollett of Bonhill, 
and named after her daughter-in-law Miss Renton of Lammerton,) 
and Bridgend, a suburb of Dumbarton. 

The turnpike roads are those leading from Dumbarton to Ren- 
ton, two and a-half miles, and to Helensburgh seven and a-balf 
miles. Along the former of these, coaches run in summer to Loch- 
lomond, but the only public communication towards the west is by 
the steam-boats on the Clyde. There are daily posts along both 
of these roads, the post-town being Dumbarton. The chief sta- 
tute labour roads lead from Cardross to Renton, and from Ardmore 
ferry to Balloch ferry, both of which are undergoing considerable 
improvements. 



92 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish of Cardross did not originally 
extend along the Clyde, beyond the site of the modern church, 
but some detached lands in Glenfruin belonged to it. In 1643 
a new arrangement, under the sanction of the Commissioners for 
the plantation of kirks, assigned to this parish its present bounds, 
and threw Glenfruin into that of Row. The church was at the 
same time moved from the point opposite Dumbarton to its pre- 
sent situation, which is the most central that could be found. It 
contained about 450 sitters, and, being found too small, was, in 
1826, replaced by the present building, which was erected with 
considerable taste, and can accommodate above 800 persons. The 
average number of the congregation is from 750 to 800 ; of com- 
municants about 500. The Crown is patron, and the minister is 
titular of the teinds. The stipend amounts to 1 1^ chalders, besides 
an augmentation of three which was obtained in 1814, but which has 
never yet been followed up by a locality, chiefly on account of the 
difficulties arising out of the arrangement of the parish in 1643. 
The glebe contains 9^ acres of arable ground, and the manse is 
believed aboul; a century old. There is now a regular missionary 
connected with the Establishment, residing in Ronton. 

At Ronton is a chapel, in connection with the Associate Pres- 
bytery, with a congregation of about 400 in attendance on Divine 
worship: the minister has L. 120 a-year, with a manse and glebe. 
There is at Bridgend a congregation of the Relief body, of whom 
about 600 attend worship. The minister is understood to have a 
house and about L. 125 a-year. These salaries are paid by the 
respective congregations.* 

Societies. — The religious societies are, a Bible society, formerly 
drawing about L. 20 a-year, but which has not been in operation 
for the last two years ; and a Bible and Missionary Society at Ren- 
ton, the income of which is L. 30. There is now also a society 
connected with the four schemes of the General Assembly, and 
another for the promotion of Female Education in India. 

J5rfiica^io;i.— There is a parish school, of which the teacher 
draws about L. 34 of salary, and L. 24 of school fees, besides 
L. 15 as the average value of some ground; bear and money mor- 
tified in the seventeenth century by the Napiers of Kilmahew. 
His emoluments as clerk to the session, and to Mrs Moore's trust, 

* There are about 470 femilies nominally connected with the Established Church, 
and there arc about 270 families nominally connected with Dissenters and Seceders : 
these are almost entirely confined to the villages of Rcnton and Bridgend, which lie 
in the very confines of the parish, and upwards of three miles from the parish church. 
--(1839.) 



CARDROSS. 93 

may amount to L. 25 more. There are five private schools, the 
emoluments of which are derived from fees, and vary from L. 15 
to L. 70. The usual branches are taught, and at the parish 
school, the annual rate of fees is, for English reading, 10s. ; for 
writing, 12s. ; for arithmetic, 14s. ; and for Latin, 16s. There 
is, on the whole, a readiness to profit by these ample opportunities 
of education, and there are few persons who cannot read and write. 

Libraries, — Three libraries have been established : in Renton, 
a general subscription library, containing 1000 volumes, and a 
Sunday school library, consisting of 200 volumes ; at Geilstown, 
a general library for the landward district, lately established, and 
already possessing upwards of 400 volumes. 

Funds for Charity. — The poor of this parish have hitherto been 
supported without the aid of compulsory assessments. The weekly 
collections in the parish church amount on an average to from 
L. 100 to L. 120 a-year ; and there is received from proclamations 
of banns, mortcloth dues, and rent of church seats, a farther sum 
of about L. 15. The number of poor upon the session roll is 
about 70, who receive on an average about 6^d. a-week. When 
a deficiency of funds occurs, the heritors regularly come forward 
with voluntary contributions. In 1690, a legacy of L. 500 Ster- 
ling was bequeathed by Mrs Jane Moore, to be invested in land 
for behoof of the poor of that part of the parish of Cardross lying 
between Auchenfroe and Keppoch. It was applied to the purchase 
of Ballimenoch, the present yearly rent of which is L. 228; besides 
the dividend arising from about L. 1000 invested in the three per 
cent, consols, which was obtained a few years ago by the sale of 
the freehold superiority of the estate. The trustees are the mi- 
nister, heritors, and kirk-session. There are 28 paupers on the 
roll, among whom is divided L. 217. The ordinary expense of 
management is limited to the clerk's salary, of L. 7, 7s. 

In this parish there are no public charitable institutions, friendly 
societies, savings' banks, prisons, or fairs. Considerable exertions 
have been made to check the increase of public-houses, and, ex- 
cepting in Renton, the number is moderate. An ample supply 
of coals is brought down the Clyde, at a moderate expense of wa- 
ter carriage. 

On the whole, the parish of Cardross has made great advances 
in general improvement and prosperity since th6 former Statistical 
Account was drawn up, and may be reckoned one of the most 
beautiful on the Clyde. 

Revised FebruarT/ 1839. 



PARISH OF ARROCHAR. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. PETER PROUDFOOT, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — Adopting the statement given in the former Statis- 
tical Account, Arrochar, formerly written Arrocher and Arro- 
quhar, " signifies a high or hilly country ; it is generally pro- 
nounced in the Gaelic language Arrar, which is a contraction of 
ard thir ; — ard signifying high, and thir a country." The name 
is very descriptive of the general appearance of the parish, which 
is high and mountainous, and presents very little low or arable 
ground. 

Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is about 15 miles in length, exclusive 
of the farms of Ardleish and Doune, which lie on the east side of 
Loch Lomond, and commencing about two miles beyond its most 
northern point, extend down its eastern shore five or six miles, and 
form the boundaries of the properties of Sir James Colquhoun of 
Luss, Bart, and His Grace the Duke of Montrose, and also of the 
counties of Dumbarton and Stirling. The mean breadth of the 
parish may be computed at 3 miles : and it contains a surface of 
somewhat more than 48 square miles. It is bounded on the east 
by Loch Lomond, the farms excepted which stretch down its 
eastern shore, which are bounded by the counties of Perth and 
Stirling ; on the south, by the water of Douglass and part of the 
parish of Luss ; on the west, by Loch Long, and part of Argyle- 
shire ; and on the north, by the parish of Strath fillan in Perthshire. 

Topographical Appearances. — Its form is peculiar; towards the 
upper and lower ends of the parish ; there is a considerable extent 
of mountainous country, while from Tarbet on Loch Lomond side, 
to Arrochar on Loch Long side, there is only a small isthmus of 
not more than a mile and three quarters. Ben Vorlich is the 
highest mountain in the parish. It is distinguished for the richness 
of its pasture, its rare and varied botanical productions, and rises 
about 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The parish is so moun- 
tainous, that jhere is only a small proportion of arable ground, not 
more than from 300 to 400 acres. 



AllKOCHAR. 95 

There are no caves that require any particular notice. Tradition 
says that there was one of considerable extent in Ben Vorlich, and 
another of smaller dimensions, on the farmofStuckindroin, thescene 
of some tragical event 

The extent of coast along Loch Lomond on the east is nearly 
14 miles, and on the west along Loch Long about 3 miles. The 
shores of Loch Lomond are sandy, flat, and occasionally rocky, with 
many most beautiful headlands. There are small bays at Cam- 
busnaglass. Parkin, Tarbet, Inveruglass, Ardvorlich ; and there 
are three islands in Loch Lomond, which may be considered as 
belonging to Arrochar. 

The climate is generally mild, but variable. Frosts, though occa- 
sionally severe, are seldom of long continuance. Snow seldom lies 
above a few days upon the low grounds. Colds in winter and 
spring are sometimes general, and then they usually assume the 
character of influenza ; inflammatory attacks were more frequent 
some years ago than at present, 'i'yphus fever occurs occasion- 
ally, but has been confined almost always to one family, and never 
extended to more than two families in any one season, for upwards 
of twenty years. 

Loch Lomond, the eastern boundary of the parish, is 24 miles 
io length, and in some places seven miles broad. From Lower 
Inveruglass, where the parish of Arrochar commences, up to near 
its northern point, it is of considerable depth. Opposite the point 
of Farkin, about a mile and a-half from Inveruglass, it is Q^ fa- 
thoms, a little farther north 80 fathoms deep ; for about a mile 
south of Tarbet, it is about 86 fathoms deep ; but about 2 miles north 
from it, opposite Alt Gary, it is 100 fathoms, which probably is its 
greatest depth ; beyond that, its depth gradually diminishes to its 
northern end. It is almost unnecessary to add, that the scenery 
of Loch Lomond is singularly bold and beautiful, and for extent, 
variety, and magnificence, ia not perhaps equalled or surpassed by 
any Lake in Great Britain. Loch Long, which constitutes part 
of the western boundary, is from 20 to 22 miles in length, and at 
some parts may be about 2 miles in breadth. Its depth in the 
immediate neighbourhood of Arrochar may be stated from 15 to 
20 fathoms. Its shores are occasionally sandy, but their general 
character is rocky. There are several magnificent points in Loch 
Long, the opening of Loch Goil, and the bold and splendid sce- 
nery towards the head of Loch Long, are objects of general attrac- 
tion and admiration. 

There are no rivers in the parish that require particular notice. 



96 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

The water of Falloch, which rises and falls into Loch Lomond at 
its head, — of Inveruglass, which runs into Loch Lomond at Up- 
per Inveruglass,— of Douglass, which enters the same at Lower 
Inveruglass, with the water of Linnhe that flows into the head of 
Loch Long, — are not remarkable for either lengthy depth, or 
breadth. There are several small but beautiful cascades in the 
parish. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — Except where in one or two places it 
is traversed by a whin dike, mica slate is the only rock formation of 
the parish, — extending from the sea level to the summit of the high- 
est hills; the schistose laminae are usually in parallel layers; but 
the section made by the new road along Loch Lomond to the 
foot of Glen Falloch presents them in every variety of contortion. 
Nor can there be any where a better field for studying the pecu- 
liarities of this primary rock so prevalent in the mountainous re- 
gions of our country. So far as we are able to judge, there are 
no indications of minerals, iron excepted ; and these are but few 
and not very distinctly marked. 

Zoology. — White hares and ptarmigan are to be met with on 
Ben Vorlich. Several of the farms rear sheep of excellent quali- 
ty. In Loch Lomond, salmon, salmon -trout, pike, perch, powans, 
usually called fresh-water herrings, and eels, are to be met with. 
In Loch Long, there are salmon, salmon-trout, cod, sethe, lythe, 
ling, whitings, skate, halibut, flounders, soles, with herrings in their 
seasons, and almost all the varieties of white fish. Muscles are 
found in great abundance towards the head of Loch Long, oysters 
but in small quantities, limpets, wilks, buckies, spout-fish ; but 
crab-fish or partans are seldom met with, in any degree of per- 
fection. 

Caterpillars are occasionally troublesome in gardens, and several 
years ago they attacked, in immense numbers, and with great vo- 
racity, the oak woods ; and in many places the foliage was utterly 
destroyed. 

Botany, — On Ben Vorlich, the following are among the more 
interesting plants : 

Stat ice armeria Sazifraga stellata Oxyria rcniformis 

Juncus biglumis _^_ oppositifolia Circa'a alpina, vars. « and 

■ trif{rdinis hypnotdes, var. ft. Hook. 

trifidus • platypetala Lysiraachia vulgaris 

Luzula spicatu Hieracium alpinum Lobelia DortmanDa 

Vaccinium uliginosum Gnapbalium supinum Lythrum salicaria 

Epilobiutn alsiiiifolium Carex stricta Solidago virgaurea 

Draba incana Rhodiola rosea Hypericum Androsapmum 

Saxifraga nivalis Cnicus heterophyllus I'arnassia palustris 
» nizoides 



ARROCHAR« 97 

II.— Civil History. 

Ijand-owners. — Sir James Colquhoun of Luss, Bart, is proprie- 
tor of almost the whole parish. The only other (and the onli/ re- 
sidmt proprietor) is John M*Murrich, Esq. of Stuckgoun, whose 
property, though not extensive, is one of singular beauty and value. 

Parochial Registers, — There are no parochial registers of a more 
remote date than 176]. They are not voluminous, and have not 
been particularly well kept 

Within these few years a number of houses have been erected 
for sea-bathing quarters; for which Arrochar presents excellent 
opportunities. 

III. — Population. 

The popuUition of Arrochar in 1755 amounted to 466 

1791, . 379 

1831, 334 males, 226 females. 
Total 560. 

The population has, of late, increased considerably. This arises 
from Arrochar having been of late years divided into smaller farms, 
and from the number of feus that have been taken. So lately as 
1817, the land was almost all in the hands of one individual. 

The yearly average of births for seven years may be stated at 
12, marriages 3. No register of deaths has been regularly kept. 

Number of persons under 15 years of age, as nearly as can be ascertained, 147 

from 15 to 30, . .54 

30 50, . . .143 

50 70, . .50 

70 and upwards, . . .14 

There are 105 families ; 96 inhabited houses, and 6 uninhabited 
houses, at least for one part of the year ; but three of these are 
usually occupied during the summer season. There are no fatuous, 
deaf, blind, or dumb persons in the parish. 

English and Gaelic are generally understood ; but while there 
are no individuals that cannot speak and understand English, there 
is a considerable number that have no acquaintance with Gaelic. 
Within the last forty years, Gaelic has rapidly lost ground, and will, 
ere long, as in other pjirts of Dumbartonshire^ be known here only 
as a matter of history. 

The inhabitants are shrewd, moral, and professedly religious 
Poaching in game and salmon fisheries are now almost unknown. 

IV. — Industry. 
There are fourteen farmers. The servants are generally shep- 
herds, though they also assist in the ordinary work about the farm, 
and may amount to about 16. Cottars are occasionally but not 
permanently employed in farming occupations. There are no 

DUMBARTON. G 



98 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

manufactures. There are 3 grocers, 7 public-houses, 5 of which 
are worse than useless, and ought to be abolished ; but two are ne- 
cessary, — the inns at Tarbet and Arrochar. There are 3 tailors, 
6 shoemakers, 3 smiths, one master wright with 2 men. 23 in- 
dividuals are employed in the herring-fishing. 

4srncii//i£r^.— The parish consists of 31,011 English or 24,809 
Scotch acres. There may be from 300 to 400 acres under 
constant or occasional cultivation. It does not appear that more 
ground could be cultivated with advantage. The number of acres 
under natural wood must be very considerable ; but the amount has 
not been ascertained. The oak woods are regularly thinned, and 
are in good order. 

Bent — The average rent of arable ground may be stated at 
L. 1, 10s. per acre. The average rent of grazing is L. 2 for an ox 
or cow ; ewe or full-grown sheep, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 

fVaffeSy Sfc. — Farm- servant's wages may be stated at L. 20 per 
annum. Labourer's wages vary from 9s. to 12s. per week; wrights 
and masons, 1 5s. and 16s. per week. The sheep are of the black- 
faced breed. Cattle are either reared upon the ground, or brought 
when young from Argyleshire. 

John M*Murrich of Stuckgoun has reclaimed about 50 acres. 
The general duration of leases is nine years. Farm buildings and 
enclosures are capable of considerable improvement. There are 
no mines ; but there are two small whinstone quarries, formed from 
the whinstone dike that stretches from Loch Lomond to Loch 
Long. 

Fisheries, — Herring fishing employs 23 hands, and is some- 
times pursued with great success. Herrings are usually in Loch 
Long towards the beginning of June, and are in great perfec- 
tion from the end of that month till the middle or end of July. 
When the fishing fails on Loch Long, the fishermen go to Loch- 
fine, and follow the occupation till the end of the season, in the 
neighbourhood of Tarbert, and from Tarbert they go onwards to 
the vicinity of Campbelton. Each boat upon an average will clear 
from L. 30 to L. 60. There are usually three hands in an ordi- 
nary sized wherry. 

Produce, — The annual thinning and felling of woods may yield 
about L. 300; of fisheries, L. 320. The amount of sown produce the 
writer has been unable to ascertain. Small quantities of kelp were 
manufactured some years ago; but, from not affording a remunerat- 
ing price, the manufacture has been abandoned. 



ARKOCIIAR. 99 

Navigation. — No vessels of larger size beloDg to the inhabi- 
tants than small fishing-boats. A steam-boat regularly plies from 
Glasgow to Arrochar, during the summer months, and vessels with 
coals and lime from Glasgow and Ireland come to Loch Long 
Head ; and wool is frequently forwarded from this to the Liverpool 
market. 

V. — Parochial £conomy. 

Market-'Tcwns. — No market-town in the parish. The nearest 
market-towns are Helensburgh and Dumbarton, — the one seven- 
teen miles and a quarter, and the other twenty-two miles distant. 
There are two small villages or clachans. * 

Means of Communication. — There are a daily post, and two car- 
riers weekly. Steam -boats ply regularly, both on Loch Lomond and 
Loch Long during the summer months, commencing towards the 
middle of May, and ceasing about the middle or end of October. 
There are no mail or heavy coaches. But a coach runs for about 
three months in summer, every lawful day, from Inverary in the 
morning to Tarbet, and from Tarbet in the afternoon to Inver- 
ary. Chaises, gigs, and carts can at all seasons be readily pro- 
cured at Tarbet or Arrochar inns. 

The roads, with the exception of two miles on Loch Long side, 
are excellent The roads on Loch Lomond side are about fif- 
teen miles in length, and present singularly beautiful and splendid 
scenery. Bridges, with one exception, are in good repair. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The church is situated rather at a comer 
of the parish ; but the great body of the parishioners are at no 
great distance ; some families are at the distance, however, of 
ten or twelve miles. The church was built in 1733, and will soon 
require a general repair. It is seated for about 300. The sittings 
are all free. The manse was built in 1837, and is an excellent 
house. The glebe contains about nineteen acres; but, with the ex- 
ception of little more than three acres, is all hill ground, and of in- 
ferior quality. It is not worth more than L. 9 annually. The 
stipend is L. 231, with 12 bolls meal. This also includes com- 
munion elements. The teinds are exhausted. There are no go- 
vernment churches, no chapels of ease, no catechists, no Dissent- 
ing chapels, and no Dissenters within the parish. 

Divine service is exceedingly well attended. In summer, the 
church is generally crowded to overflowing, and is felt then to be 
much too small ; and, in the winter, when the weather is favour- 
able, it is filled. Probable average of communicants, 216. No 



100 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

religious societies; butcoUections are occasionally made for religious 
purposes, which have always been liberal. 

Education. — There are one parochial, one privately endowed 
school, and a charity sewing school, to the teacher of which the Society 
in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge gives a salary of 
L. 4 annually. In the parochial school, the ordinary branches of 
education are taught. In the private, in addition to these, practical 
mathematics, geography, Latin, and Greek are taught The pa- 
rochial teacher enjoys the maximum salary, and also receives L. 5 
or L. 6 out of the bishop's lands, Dunkeld. The school fees must 
for sAiumberof years have been very small. In the parochial school, 
the fees are, for reading, ds. per quarter ; reading and writing, 4s. ; 
reading, writing, and arithmetic, 5s. The teacher has the legal 
accommodations. 

The salary of the private teacher is L. 25 annually, which is 
paid by John M^Murrich, Esq. of Stuckgoun, a gentleman to 
whom the parish of Arrochar is under no common obligations. 
The fees in this school are, reading, 2s. 6d. ; reading and writing, 
ds. ; reading, writing, and arithmetic, ds. 6d. ; and Latin, 5s. per 
quarter. Fees may amount annually to betwixt L.15 and L.20. 

There are no persons in the parish between the ages of six and 
fifteen, that cannot read and write. There are three families to- 
wards the head of the parish, whose children can neither be bene- 
fited by the parochial nor private school. 

Literature. — There is a small parochial library. No Friendly 
Societies, and no Savings Banks. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — Nine may be stated as the average 
number of the poor. The largest sum given, and that to a pauper, 
who is perfectly helpless, is L. 15 ; the lowest, L. 1. Collections 
for the poor average for several years, L. 30. These, with in- 
terest of money, L. 6, 6s., marriage and mortcloth dues of L. 2 
per annum, have always proved sufficient for the support of the 
poor. For repairs upon houses allotted to the poor, funeral ex- 
penses, &c. the sum of L. 48, 6s. 2^d. was distributed last year ; 
considerably the highest sum that was ever in one year expended 
for the support of the poor. There have been some remarkable 
instances of reluctance on the part of the poor to receive paro- 
chial aid. The old church officer, who was for upwards of two 
years confined to bed, had the utmost horror of coming upon the 
poor^S'box ; and, from his salary being continued, from marriage 
dues, from the kindness of the benevolent, and from that disposi- 



ARROCHAR. 101 

tion which was iDdicated by his own significant expression, ^^ Pro- 
vidence is large^ and I'll no come upon the poor's hox^' — he 
lived and died without receiving a farthing from the session, and he 
had safely husbanded, for many a long day, a guinea to pay for his 
coffin. It is to be feared that the feeling so remarkably exhibited 
by him is gradually^ if not rapidly^ diminishing. 

/iti», Sfc — There are two inns, one at Tarbet, which is too well 
known to require any favourable notice ; another at Arrochar, 
which has been lately built and opened, and is also under excel* 
lent management These are necessary for the accommodation 
of travellers, who come from all quarters to visit the splendid and 
beautiful scenery of Inverary, Glencroe, Loch Long, Lochlomond, 
and Loch Kettwrin. There are five other public-houses, which, 
from the facilities they present, have a most pernicious influence, 
inducing and maintaining habits of intemperance. It were well for 
the interests of the community that these were instantly and for 
ever put down. 

. FurL — Coal is the common fuel, — which is usually shipped at 
the Broomielaw. The average price, at present, may be stated at 
86. 6d« the 12 cwt., carriage included. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Within the last twenty years, the population has considerably 
increased ; and if the system of feuing is continued, there is every 
probability that a few years only will elapse, when Arrochar will 
become much more extended as a watering-place than it is at pre- 
sent The' character of the people, during the same period, has 
also considerably improved. A better conducted system of edu* 
cation, based upon Scriptural principles, has been introduced : and 
the establishment of a Sabbath school, which has been in existence 
for upwards of twenty years, and the regular church-going habits 
of the people, have, it is hoped, been attended with the most bene- 
ficial consequences. 

March 1839. 



PARISH OF ROSENEATH. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. ROBERT STORY, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name.'^'TuE name is found variously written in documents of 

different ages ; but latterly it is generally spelt Rosneath.* There 
can be no doubt as to the meaning of the first syllable Rosj con- 
fessedly a Celtic word, signifying a point, — a generic term simply, 
and not expressive of the elevation or depression, or of any parti- 
cular shape of the headland to which it refers. Respecting the 
adjunct, neath, however, etymologists widely differ. Some derive 
the name from Bhos-neth, the promontory or peninsula of the small 
dingle ; and such an origin is probable from the fact, that in the 
southern extremity, there is a dingle, which, to persons approach- 
ing it from the east or west, must always have presented a strik- 
ing feature in the aspect of the peninsula. Nothing could be more 
natural to the aboriginal Celts, emerging from the vast glens of 
the contiguous mountains of Cowal, than the exclamation, this 
is the little dingle! — and if tradition, tracing the route of the 
Cambuskenneth pilgrims to Icolmkill, be correct in representing 
Killcreggan, (in the immediate vicinity of the dell, and then the 
seat of a religious house) as one of their resting-places, they could 
not fail, in approaching it, to detect in the dingle a miniature resem- 
blance of the larger hollow of Glenfruin, which might lead them 
to repeat and sanction, if not to originate the name. Others con- 
sider it to be derived from Ros^neoth, the bare unwooded pro-' 
montory : such, however, in the judgment of Celtic scholars, are 

• In the twelfth century, it is found with its modern orthography, Rosneth, in 
the grant by Amelicy the brother of Maldoen, the Earl of Lennox, of all its temporali- 
ties to the monks of Paisley. Afterwards Rusneth — Kosneuth, nevet — ncgty obviously a 
contraction, and Nenet, probably from the mistake of a letter by the transcriber of the 
document. Then again Nevino persona deNeveth andGilmothe Alio sacristi de Ncvneth, 
Michael Gilmodyn persona de Nenet, are signatures to charters which identify the va- 
rious orthographies with the name of one place. Renyt is another variety, and equal- 
ly with the others differing from the Saxon or Celtic orthographies, assumed to be still 
more ancient. 



ROSENEATH. 103 

Exceedingly plebeian in their etymological solutions, and exhibit 
no taste for romantic and interesting derivations. But, notwithstand- 
ing this impression, they may be correct in the present case; for it 
is certainly by no means improbable, that such an epithet would be 
suggested by the general aspect of the peninsula, before any art was 
employed in its cultivation or adornment A third class, however, 
reject both these derivation^ being confident that the modern or- 
thography is a corruption of Moss-na'choichf or the VirgirCg pro' 
mantory : these would thus have us believe that the name has 
DO connection with the natural appearance of the locality, but with 
a fact in its ecclesiastical history, — a church having at a very ear- 
ly period been dedicated to the blessed Virgin. It is of very little 
consequence which hypothesis be adopted : all seem to be equal- 
ly probable. It may be said, however, that with neither of the 
two last does the natural appearance or ecclesiastical condition of 
the place at present correspond : for it is now clothed with artifi- 
dal plantations of various ages, and singular beauty, while the ve- 
nerable cruciform church, so consecrated, no longer exists — that 
which in superstitious times seems to have extended no ordinary 
sanctity, if it did not give a name to its sequestered environs, hav- 
ing been superseded more than seventy years ago by a Presbyte- 
rian parallelogram of the plainest description. The name is thus 
of a very conjectural origin : and it may farther be stated, that 
there are strong reasons for supposing that it is not descriptive of 
the promontory at all, but of a large' district of country, comprising 
part of the lordship of Lennox, designated Nevyd ; and that the 
peninsula of Roseneath is just the Ros-de-Nevyd. So long, then, 
as the meaning of Nevyd h undetermined, we cannot fix the origin 
or import of the present name : but should it be equivalent to 
Snowy, which is very likely, then Roseneath might be translated the 
peninsula of the snowy district, which would be graphically appli- 
cable to its position in the gorge of the adjacent mountains, partly 
comprehended in that lordship: for in winter, especially after a snow 
storm, its aspect is very remarkable, extending its undulatingsurface 
darkly on the waters, while the snows are unmelted in the mountain- 
ous regions which surround it. But etymologies of the name seem 
quite exhaustless. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The length is about 8 miles, and the 
breadth varies from about l^ to 2 miles. It is bounded on the 
east by the Gareloch ; on the south, by the Clyde ; on the west, by 
Loch Long; and on the north, by the parish of Row ; being thus. 



104 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

with the exception of the isthmus connecting it with the mainland 
of Dumbartonshire, entirely surrounded by water. Its form may 
be described as somewhat resembling that of a boot ; in such a 
way at least, as to the eye glancing over the map of Europe, Italy 
has been supposed to do.* 

Topographical Appearances. — The parish consists mainly of one 
continuous ridge, rising gradually from the level at its southern 
extremity, to the Gallowhill, and thence extending in undulating 
lines of various elevation to the hill of Tamnahara, which is the 
highest point of the peninsula, about 800 feet above the sea-level, 
With the exception of the level grounds, where the castle and 
policies are situated, and the few alluvial fields of the Clachan 
farm, contiguous to the church, the cultivated parts consist of ac- 
clivities from the lochs on either side. The whole of the more ele- 
vated tracts, comprising the summit of the ridge, and forming a 
kind of table-land, are covered with heath and morass ; and from 
the edges of these, the enclosed and arable fields descend to the 
gravelly beach or rocky banks which skirt the shores. 

The aspect of the whole parish is interesting and beautiful ; to 
the south especially, where it is adorned with extensive plantations 
of various ages. The natural lines are of most delicate symme- 
try, and generally the plantations have been so felicitously ar- 
ranged, as to give every.advantage to that original and intrinsic beauty 
of the environs, — while the trees are so mingled, as to secure all 
variety of tint to the foliage in the transitions of spring and autumn. 

It is often visited on account of its attractive scenery, and cer- 
tainly nowhere in this or perhaps in any other country, does a lo- 
cality of such limited extent contain within itself or command the 
prospect of a greater variety of interesting objects. Proceeding 
by any of the roads which intersect it, there is a succession of 
magnificent landscapes, abounding with whatever elements of subli- 
mity and beauty the eyes delight to look upon ; and thus, from 

* Formerly the parish of Roseneath extended much beyond its present dimensions, 
and was designated in presbytery records and other documents of the time* *^ the pa- 
rochin without and within the isle." It is now limited to the isle alone, and that 
moiety without the isle forms now part of the parishes of Cardross and Row. The dis. 
junction was effected in 1635. Considerable difficulties had occurred in accomplish- 
ing the new erection of the parish of Row, but at last a presentee was inducted on 
the express proviso that he should sanction the measure when otherwise matured ; 
and, moreorer, that he should denude himself of a portion of the teinds, to secure a com- 
petent living to the incumbent : while, on the other hand, the laird of Ardeucaplc 
only consented to his admission, on the condition of his preaching alternately in the 
new kirk of Row, on the opposite side of the Gareloch, and therefore without the 
isle (except when the Marquis of A rgyle should be resident in Roseneath,) without pre- 
judioeto the course of the erection, &c. 



UOS£NEATH. 105 

sucli poiDts as the Tower of the Castle — the Grallowhill or Tam- 
nahara, commanding the most panoramic views, may be seen in 
one direction perhaps dying away in remote distances, such soft 
and graceful lines of beauty as vulgarize the most exquisite crea«- 
tion even of such a pencil as Claude ; while at a glance of the 
eye elsewhere, sublimer forms rise to the contemplation than ever 
excited admiration around the bold and impetuous fancies of a Sal- 
▼ator Rosa. 

Perhaps, in absence of more important materials of statistical 
record, an instance or two may be given of the effect of these re- 
markable scenes upon sensitive minds. A distinguished man, well 
known as an elegant religious author, and exhibiting in his works a 
peculiar delicacy of perception of natural beauty, sat and wept like 
a child, when he first looked down upon the Gareloch from 
Baremman, so singularly bounded by the Castle point, the pro- 
montory of Ardmor, the distant hills of Renfrewshire; the exqui- 
site harmonies of the landscape were too much for even his eye, 
so familiar with beauty. Another, scarcely less known, from a 
different point, thus affected with the contemplation of the same 
objects, one fine summer morning, the writer heard exclaiming, 
*' O ! this is too much, this is too much !" and then his feelings 
were relieved by bursting into tears. After a long silence, al)- 
sorbed in gazing from Tamnahara on the rugged forms of the 
mountains, rising abruptly from the waters of Loch Long and 
Lochgoil ; " Never" — did a certain graphic author thus exclaim, 
creating terms for what he so admiced, ^^ Never did I see such 
specimens of the statuary of nature.'' An English artist accom- 
panied the minister one day to a cottager, who was labouring un- 
der very acute disease. He betrayed no peculiar emotion as he 
heard the groans of the poor man, so expressive of his intense 
endurance. No sooner, however, had he crossed the threshold, 
than he exclaimed; — " O nature ! O man!" waving his hand to- 
wards the glories he looked upon. The contrast was indeed ir- 
resistible. How much of the primeval order and beauty seemed 
to adorn what surrounded the cottage — how much of the misery 
of man's primeval folly dwelt within it ! 

Meteorology^ §*c. — There has been no register kept with suffi- 
cient accuracy to afford any precise test of the comparative tem- 
perature and pressure of our atmosphere. It may be stated, how- 
ever, that the air is much milder here than at most other places 
in the same neighbourhood, and on the same line across the cown- 



10(i DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

try. This is known to be the fact, and is indicated by various 
nataral appearances, such as the continuance of the foliage, and 
the length of time during which exotics of considerable delicacy 
may be exposed to the open air without injury. This mildness of 
climate is more observable towards the end of autumn and during 
the winter than in the season of spring ; and while the frosts of 
winter are less severe than in the interior of the country, the heats 
of summer are by no means so violent ; which may be accounted 
for by the peninsular situation of the parish, and its being sur- 
rounded and sheltered by higher grounds, which, though separated 
from it by the intervening wafers, are not more than a mile or two 
distant. The prevalent winds are from the south and south-west ; 
and to these the Loch Long side of the parish is particularly expos- 
ed, while the Gareloch side is enjoying shelter the most complete. 
The average rain is certainly not greater, but it is without doubt 
more frequent, than in the neighbouring districts of Renfrewshire 
and Argyleshire. The chief reason of this is to be found in the 
conflicting attractions of the higher grounds on opposite sides of 
the Frith. A large mass of dense vapour may frequently be seen 
driving up the estuary of the Clyde, as if ready to deluge the pe- 
ninsula in its progress. On reaching the narrow part of the chan- 
nel, between the Clock and Dunoon, it appears to pause for a 
while, as if considering in what direction to proceed : but whether 
it eventually verge toward the mountains of Cowal on the left, or 
toward the masses of Renfrew on the right, a portion of its watery 
burden descends on our intermediate shores, — and thus, whichever 
attraction prevail, we have invariably what is called the tail of the 
shower. This phenomenon is very striking, and may be very easily 
seen at certain seasons of the year ; and during the struggle of 
the opposing forces for the mastery, the scenery of the dark and 
stormy heavens oftentimes presents an aspect of bold and rugged 
sublimity. ♦ 

* Changes of weaUicr are preceded by such prognostics as arc common in other 
districts, — such, for example, as the low flight of the crow in the growing humidity 
of the air, — the landward flight and flocking together of the gulls before a gale. One 
or two may be specified as rather peculiar. 

In the calmest ni^rht the tide-stream at the ferry, although, as it passes, silent like 
the falling dew, will sometimes, before atmospheric changes, resound like a cataract. 
Let the sky be starry and cloudless, and otherwise studded all over with promises of 
a beautiful morning, the sun to a certainty will have much ado to escape from the 
clouds that shall crowd together to blindfold him. 

Between two peaks on the Arrochar range, to tlie cast of the *' Duke*s Bowling- 
green- Hill," should there appear a hazy ill-defined cloud in the afternoon, even iQ- 
though not a cloud should be elsewhere alwvc the horizon, many a dingy mass of va- 
pour will it have to l)ear by the morning. 



KOSENEATH. 107 

The parish is, upon the whole, very healthy, as is iDdicated by 
the loi^Tity of a much greater proportion of the people than is 
obsenrable in ordinary cases, and by the great number of large 
families that reach maturity without the occurrence of a single 
death. The air is indeed moist, but it is, at the same time, par- 
ticularly pure, to which the tide-streams, running in all directons 
romad nine-tenths of its boundary, must in no small degree con- 
tribute. It is vitiated by no miasma : the beaches are generally 
gravelly and bold ; and though a considerable part of the surface 
of the parish consists of marshy grounds, these lie along the sum- 
mit of the ridge, and none of their exhalations at any season de- 
scend to the cultivated and inhabited districts. It is very seldom 
that any thing like foggy weather prevails ; and the haars of the 
east coast are entirely unknown. It ought to be mentioned, how- 
ever, that one part is certainly less healthy than the rest : that 
toward the south, which is much crowded by plantations, and 
where, during the last twenty years, the proportion of sickness and 
death has been much greater than in the Loch Long district, and 
on the upper shores of the Gareloch. 

The prevalent diseases are rheumatic and pulmonary affections, 
which may be accounted for by the humidity of the climate, the 
nature and situation of the dwellings. Fevers do not frequently 
occur, and when they do, are traceable in almost all cases to 
infection from without the isle^ as it is called, and are convey- 
ed sometimes under circumstances that reflect but little credit 
on the principles and feelings of the wealthier classes of our city 

The transmission of sound acrossthc Ferry is remarkably varied by the degree of hu- 
midity in the air ; but no state of the atmosphere for the last twenty years has enabled 
the writer to detect the celebrated echo of the district. It is, however, gravely stated 
•8 a fact in acoustic treatises, on the authority of Dr Bird, ** that, somewhere in the 
*• Ule»* when a person at a proper distance played eight or ten notes on a trumpet, they 
were correctly repeated, but a third lower ; atlcr a short silence another repetition was 
heard in a yet lower tone ; and after another short interval they were repeated a third 
time lower stiU.** 

That proper distance nobody has been able to discover, at least within the last 
twenty years. It is possible the reverberation may have been greatly modified by the 
growth of the plantations ; but it is not likely that these varying keys should have been 
altogether lost. It is a curious circumstance, that, many years ago, when hailing a 
steam^boAt at anchor in the contiguous bay from the point of Craigencroan, the 
words were repeated distinctly ; and finding, on trial, that we had caught an echo of 
nine syllables, the writer and his friend at first supposed it was the long lost echo re- 
stored to the vicinage. There was no such repetition, no pause, nor change of 
key ; but firom that day to this the echo none can rouse from her slumber. A most 
evaoeaeent creature she must have been, in all probability depending for her existence 
on the position of the steamer at the time annihilated by the first dash of her paddle. 

So much for the Rosencath echo. Philosophers, puzzling themselves to explain the 
mystery cf her being, may remind one of Charles the Second, with his fish and tub 
of water» among the fathers of the Royal Society. 

4 



108 DUMBAUTONSUIUE. 

population. The evil alluded to, and from which the parish occa- 
sionally suffers, is of the following kind : There are a great num 
ber of young women from this parish employed as domestic ser- 
vants in the contiguous towns, more especially in Glasgow. As 
may be expected, not a few of these are from time to time seized 
with fevers and other infectious disorders : and though they are 
well known to be both faithful and active domestics, yet, no sooner 
are they unfit for their labour, than they are often hurried 
away from the families in whose services they have caught the in- 
fection, without any attendant, sometimes without any arrange- 
ment for their safety or comfort having ever been attempted. In 
this diseased and distressed condition they are left to find their 
way home as they best can : though symptoms of their malady are 
thus highly aggravated by undue exertion and exposure ; and with 
a diminished likelihood of recovery to themselves, they are made 
the vehicles of conveying disease, in its most virulent forms, to 
the small, and damp, and often crowded cottages of their native 
parishes. 

Within the last twenty years, there have been several fatal cases 
both of palsy, scrofula, and cancer ; and during the late visitation 
of Asiatic cholera, there were two cases of the disease, both of 
which terminated fatally. 

Many remarkable forms of disease have appeared among us ; 
and not a few very peculiar cases of insanity. In regard to these 
no minute details can be given here ; but in closing this section, 
it may be stated, that two very singular recoveries from disease 
have occurred within the last fifteen years. The one was the 
case of an epileptic youth, whose mind and body were fast decaying 
under his severe malady. It so happened that his parents had on 
one occasion left within his reach more than a pint of ardent 
spirits, for which, unhappily, he had contracted a liking. On their 
return home they found the bottle empty, and their epileptic son 
stretched senseless on the floor. He slept continuously for upwards 
of forty hours, and awoke in comparative health both of body and 
mind. He lived for several years, and during all that period he 
had no return of his malady, and no desire for violent stimulants. 
The other was the case of a poor woman, the mother of a large 
family, who, for a considerable period, had been in a state of vio- 
lent and seemingly confirmed derangement Her husband was so 
arrested and exercised with her distressing situation, that at length 
his mind became unhinged also ; and one night, in a fit of impetu- 



ROSENKATH. 109 

ous distrsctioD, he rushed from his cottage, and drowned himself 
in the Gareloch. So awful and sudden an event was not unblest 
to the poor widow : the result was her entire and almost immediate 
restoration to soundness of mind. 

Hydrography. — As might be expected from the nature of the 
parish, there are many small rivulets, or brooks, descending from 
the higher grounds. In rainy weather, these give an aspect of 
great liveliness to the scenery on both shores, increasing at times 
from brawling brooklets to impetuous torrents, and showing in the 
lower parts of their course many cascades of various and pictu«- 
resque beauty. During the piercing frosts of our severer winters, 
there may thus be seen an endless variety of columnar congella- 
tions, glancing through the leafless brushwood of the bolder rocky 
banks ; while during the intense heats of summer, the streams 
which should replace them entirely disappear. 

Of late years, there have been several waterspouts of unusual 
magnitude on the Grareloch side ; and, as these occurred at one 
locality, there must in all probability be something in the nature 
and form of the ground to occasion the coincidence. 

There is one small lake in the parish contiguous to Tamnahara. 
It is not deep, but its waters are very pure, and it affords what 
may be considered rather good perch fishing. A small stream 
from this lonely and elevated lake falls into Loch Long near the 
north-west extremity of the parish ; but this, like our other streams, 
is very inconsiderable during the warm summer months. 

There are but few perennial springs : one of these, near the 
old mansion-house at Clachan, is nearly of the same temperature 
at all seasons ; and in droughty summers has been occasionally re- 
sorted to from considerable distances. The other, in the Clachan 
glen, called the Minister's well, is slightly chalybeate, and, like the 
former, scarcely varies in its temperature. 

Although there are no fresh water rivers, there is a considerable 
stream in the tides of the Gareloch at Roseneath Ferry. These 
are very remarkable, as well for their rapidity as their varying di- 
rection, occasioned by the narrowing of the loch at the Row Point, 
and the various headlands or horns of the contiguous bays. The 
waters both in Loch Long and Loch Gare are generally clear, — 
their depth varies from 10 to 30 fathoms, and the saltness of nei- 
ther is materially diminished by the waters of the Clyde. In Loch 
Long, the current runs about two miles, and in the Gareloch three 
or four miles, an hour. 



no DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

The Gareloch affords excellent anchorage for vessels of all sizes ; 
the holding-ground is good, and the shelter is complete from all 
the more prevalent winds. This is especially true of the beautiful 
small bay of Campsaile, perhaps the best sheltered anchorage on the 
west coast of Scotland. Of late years, it has on this account been se- 
lected by many gentlemen of the Royal Yacht Club, and during the 
winter season is studded with their cutters, which ride there in perfect 
safety during the most violent gales. It appears that, at a very 
early period, it was used by the Kings of Scotland for a similar pur- 
pose, having been a frequent station of the royal navies : and with- 
in the memory of the present generation a 74 gun-ship lay for a 
considerable time at anchor, between the Row Ferry and the Castle- 
point : Indeed, the whole navy of Britain might ride securely on 
the bosom of the Gareloch, and enjoy all the comforts of an inland 
harbour. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — There is scarcely any thing worthy 
of notice in the geological structure of the parish. It may be men- 
tioned, however, that nearly the whole strata of this peninsula be- 
long to the primitive class of rocks. The prevailing formation is 
day-slate, which, at times, passes into chlorite slate, and, more 
rarely, into mica slate. One example of the chlorite slate has 
been furnished by quarries that have been opened on the face of 
the hill rising from the Gareloch, above the Row Ferry. The 
clay slate strata are inclined at an angle of about 60^ The di- 
rection appears to be pretty uniform, from north-west to south-east. 

On the shore of Loch Long, near the site of the old fort at 
Knockderry, a large mass of greenstone has been forced up be- 
tween the strata, and appears as a dike of from twenty to thirty 
feet thick, lying interposed between the strata, and not cutting them 
across. In the immediate vicinity of this dike, the rock approaches 
in its mineralogical character to chlorite slate ; but at no great 
distance, the clay-slate appears. Another much smaller greenstone 
dike, about three feet thick, and nearly half a mile farther south, 
on the same shore, is found similarly related to the adjoining stra- 
ta. The south-eastern extremity of the parish is occupied by a 
rock of the secondary class, conglomerate, or coarse sandstone, 
which occurs in beds of considerable thickness. This rock is 
recognized as a portion of the great sandstone formation which 
extends along the opposite shores of Renfrew and Ayrshire, and 
embraces the Cumbrae Islands and a large portion of the southern 
half of Bute. The sandstone must, no doubt, be regarded as one 



BOSBNEATH. 1 1 1 

of the lowest membersof the carboniferous series, which pervades the 
great valley of the Scottish Lowlands, in which no organic remains 
have hitherto been found. The line of formation between the 
sandstone and primitive rock of the parish runs along the vale or 
dingle which stretches from Campsaile on the eastern shore to Port- 
kill on the south-west. Although seldom observable on the surfoce, 
k it easily known by the superior fertility of the fields lying on the 
sandstone. In the slate formation on the Loch Long shore, as well 
as in the quartz, iron pyrites is found in considerable abundance. 
In the slate, it is always crystallized, and in the quartz it appears 
in irregular masses of larger size. The colour of the slate varies 
very much, and obviously in proportion to the quantity of oxide of iron 
which pervades it. Boulders of granite are frequent on the western 
shore^ some of them of considerable size. 

Zooloffy, — There is nothing remarkable in the zoology of the pa- 
rish. No animals of any rarity seem to be indigenous. The zo<^* 
logical ornament of the parish is its herd of roe-bucks. These ele- 
gant creatures, although not so numerous as formerly, may still be 
seen in little groups, chiefly in their favourite haunts throughout the 
woods, or bounding across the open fields. They seem rather mi- 
gratory in their habits, which, independent of other causes, accounts 
for their diminished numbers. For it is a remarkable fact, that, 
although the plantations here afford the best possible retirements, 
and seldom any thing can occur to startle or annoy them, they have 
been seen occasionally swimming across Loch Long to the Cowal 
mountains, and throughout the Lennox different colonies are spring- 
ing up, whose common ancestors browsed in our quiet groves on 
this side the Gareloch. 

It is said that at one time the soil of the peninsula was so sove- 
reign a repellent of rats, that not one of the race would come near it. 
The Greenock skippers, to secure their vessels from such a nuisance, 
shipped ballast from the Roseneath shore for any of their longer 
voyages; audit seems there is no doubt a sagacious West India plant- 
er did veritably export some casks of our earth to Jamaica, in hopes 
of killing the rats that were gnawing his sugar canes. The alleged 
peculiar sanctity of the spot, may have originated such an impres- 
sion of the virtue of the soil of the beautiful isle. The fact of 
their being no rats in the parish, would aid the delusion. Now, 
indeed, different races of these pestilent vermin, under cover of our ag- 
ricultural improvement or from vessels with less sacred ballast touch* 
ing our shores, have effected a habitat here as in other districts. Not 



112 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

more than forty years ago, however, a rat seemed so rare and, 
strange a creature, that the children were let loose from the parish 
school for the express purpose of seeing the skeleton of one which 
had been found, to the surprise of the whole neighbourhood, at the 
demolition of the old ferry house. 

In the high grounds, grouse are still found in considerable num- 
bers, although gradually giving way to the more muscular black 
game. The partridge, coveys have multiplied with the cultivation 
of the fields below. Hares are not increasing in number. In their 
season, snipe and woodcock are abundant in certain localities : but 
pheasants, although all the ordinary arts have been employed to 
naturalize them in covers apparently most agreeable to their habits, 
?— the soil has hitherto put forth no virtue sufficient to attract 

The surrounding waters periodically abound with herrings ; and 
salmon* are caught at different stations in considerable numbers ; 
but there is nothing peculiar in the mode of fishing either. In re- 
gard to the herrings, it may be stated that they appear in the 
Gareloch sooner than in any other of the western lochs, and are 
fully equal in quality to those of Loch Fine. Of late years, they 
have not been so numerous as formerly, owing, as many persons 
in lack of a more exact philosophy imagine, to the frequent passing 
and repassing of steam-vessels in all directions, and more especially 
where the waters of the Gareloch and Lochlong diverge from the 
estuary of the Clyde. 

The symptoms of the approach of the shoal for the season are 
familiar to the natives, and always excite interest around our shores. 
Nor does the flight of gulls and other aquatics, or the harlequin 
movements of the porpoises in the end of May or beginning of 
June, contribute more to the picturesque aspect of our secluded 
waters, than they excite agreeable sensations, as the well known 
heralds of God's bounty, on its way with each coming tide from 
the prolific depths of the more distant ocean. 

There is, besides, a great variety of fishes, more or less abun- 
dant, fit for the table, found in our contiguous waters, viz. sea-trout, 
haddock, common or rock-cod, ling, (20 lbs.) whiting, skate, mac- 
kerel, flounders of all varieties, sethe, lithe; but, from whatever 
cause, they are all less numerous than about ten or twenty years ago. 
In addition to these others, are occasionally found, such as the hali- 

• In the twelfth century, A melee, the Earl of Lennox, granted to the monks of Pais- 
ley a right to all the salmon fishing in the Gare'och, reserving to himself and heirs 
•verv fourth salmon. 



R08ENBATH. 113 

buCy (60 lbs.) said to be a peculiar favourite with the Jews; mullet, 
q)erlins, John Dorys, one of the most elegant of the finny tribe, the 
gunuurd or crooner, so named, from its emitting a sound at the depth 
of several feet, similar to the grunting of a pig, the braise, of sin- 
gular beauty of colour, (2 lbs.) grim iris, the bones of which, when 
boiled, become quite green, and several years ago, a tunny, of about 
eight feet in length, was entangled in the salmon nets ; or rather was 
entrapped out of his depth at the head of the Gareloch. 

The shell fish of any value are few. Occasionally a crab or 
lobster is found on the Loch Long shore. Mussels are numerous, 
but seldom come to maturity ; there is a bed or two of oysters, also 
of excellent quality, but scantily inhabited. 

The following is a list of Roseneath shells, or shells on the 
Gareloch shore, two or three of which may be interesting to con- 
chologists. 

FiBtella Tulgarit Modiula vulgaris Venus gallina 

Turbo littoreus Mjrtilus edulis Venerupis pullastra 

Turbo nidis Csuttium edulc Venerupis Virginca 

Nerita littoralis Cardium echinatum Pholan dactylus 

TomateUa tomatilis Tellina tenuis Hiatella rugosa 

Bnceinum undatum Psammobia solidula Mya arenaria 

RofteUaria pes-pelecani Astarte Scotica Mya truncata. 

Peeten opercularb Astarte Gnnensis 

Pecten varius Cyprina Islandica 

Botany, — The soil .seems favourable for the growth of trees of 
all descriptions ; and evergreens, shy, or rather difiicult of culture, 
shoot up in the more sheltered spots with wonderful celerity and 
luxuriance. There are in the woods of Campsail, as well as in 
the policies contiguous to the Castle, and around the church, trees 
of great magnitude and beauty. But the botanic glory of the pa- 
rish, are the two silver firs near the site of the old mansion of 
the Campbells of Carrick. They are supposed to have been 
among the first specimens, and coeval with the introduction of 
that species of pine into this country. Their circumference, five 
feet from the ground, is about 19 feet, and their lofty stems support 
a profusion of mighty boughs, by the peculiar form and grouping 
of which, such an expression of power and majesty is conveyed, as 
to excite, even in the most insensible, sublime emotions. They 
singularly combine, by their relative position, to effect this. A 
distinguished artist greatly erred, when preparing his work on fo- 
rest trees ; he sketched only one of these magnificent forms. Would 
a section of York Minster do justice to that noble pile in a collec- 
tion of Gothic cathedrals ? 

DUMBARTON. H 



114 



DUMBARTONSHIRE. 



The following is a list of the more humble plants in the parish, 
some of which will be found of considerable rarity. 

Hypericum quadrangulum 
perforatum 
humifusum 
pulchrum 
cinerea » » «»»»« ■««»»>«»»«»'»i» cioqcs 



Salicomia berbacea 
Veronica aoiitellata 
anagallis 
montana 



M)#M»#0l«ltfW*«lf<A* 



Oxyria reniformis 
Triglochin maritimum 
..«.«i....i.,«,,«.^ palustre 
Erica tetralix 



0i0^i^^09'0immmm<mmm0^^^m 



0i^>0>m0^-0'i0mm0i^m^m00>^^^ 



0>m0>mmn^0>0mm^0<**0m^*i**0 



Pinguicula vulguris 
Lyoopus EuropsBus 
Ciroaea lutettana 
alpina 



tfV<*MM»WW«M# 



m0'm0im00<m* 



9immm0'i0>0mf^mm0^0mm 



»»#»#»»^»0»»^»»rfl^»»#>#<W« 



Valeriana oflScinalis 
Fedia olitoria 
Scirpus sylvaticus 
Poa fluitant 
Briaa media 
Elymus arenarius 
Triticum junceum 
Galium boreale 
Asperula odorata 
Phmtago maritiroa 
Ilex aquifulium 
Lithospermum maritimum 
Lycopsis arvensis 
Myosotis palustris 
Anagallis arvensia 
^ tenella 



0mm0t00i0»0>m0m0i0mm 



p^w^»***<^#*»<»»s » 



0>^>mmg0<0'>0>0^m^0>0>fm 



MWtfMMW^* 



Lysimacbia vulgaris 

Erytliraea centaurium 
8amoIus valerandi 
Lonicera periclymenum 
Glaux maritima 
Gentiana campestris 
Sanicula Europasa 
Cicuta virosa- 
SisoD verticillatum 
Carum carui 
Pimpjnella saxifraga 
GEnanthe fistulosa 

Daucus carota 
Salsola kali 
Viburnum opal us 
Parnassia palustris 
Droaera rotundlfolia 
Hyacintbus non-scriptus 
Narthecium ossifragum 



Vaccinium uHgniosum 
vitis idea 
oxycoccos 
Polygonum vlnparum 
Pyrola media 
Chrysosplenium opposi* 

tiiblium 
> w »»a «i»i»— <i«»v«#<»w aitemuoiium 
Saxifraga stcllaris 
aizoides 
granulata 
bypnoides 
Sedum villosum 
Prunus spinosa 

Rubus idaeus 

^r^^iww^»^ SSjIQUIIS 

Giaucium luteum 
Tbalictrum majus 
Trollius Europsus 
Thymus serpyllum 
Teucrium scorodonia 
Galeopsis tetrabit 
wm0i^0is 0^*10*00^^0^0 vci sicoior 
Prunella vulgaris 
Scutellaria galericulata 
B&rtsia viscosa 
Digitalis purpurea 
Lepidium Smithii 
Draba verna 
Geranium sy 1 vatic um 
Corydalis claviculata 
Polygala vulgaris 
Ononis arvensis 
A nthyllis vulneraria 
Vida sativa 
Lotus major 
,«^,w»^^ corniculatus 
Hypericum androasraaum 



Leontodon palustre 
Cicborium intybus 
Eupatorium cannabinum 
Gnaphalium dioicum 

00>m0i0i00*00m000tm000mm\m B\ IVclvavUIH 

Aster tripolium 
Solidago virgaurea 
Orcbis mascula 
,,^,.».w« latifolia 

Gymnadenia conopses 
Habenaria viridii 
.^ albida 



•ifwiawtMM 



« bifolia 



Listera ovata 

W0*0mm0'000*000k COl CJH m 

Zostcra marina 
Myrica gale 
Juniperus communis 
Polypodium vulgare 

pbegopteris 
dryopteris 
Aspidium lobatum 
, oreopteris 
filix-mas 
dilatatum 
^ filix fisemina 
Cistopteris fragilis 
Asplenium viride 

ruta-muraria 
adiantum nigrum 
iricbomanes 
Scolopendrium vulgare 
Blechnum boreale 
Hymenophyllum Wilsoni 
Botrychiuro lunaiia 
Lycopodium clavatum 
selago 
alpina 
selaginoidesy 



0>l^0*0m0000»000t0>^00m0i0^ 



0>^*0>m0»0'0>0'0>00>00*0 #^*P^* 



90*0>0^0>0**>00>0^^^>000* ^ 



000>0i00^00>m00<0>*0m0t 



0<f*0*0i000i^000*m0m0* 



0i0*0>0m00l^00>00'0<00 



W0^mm00t00^m00<mm 



00'0'0100^0l0f00*0^0i^ 



*0>0>^0*00t0>0'm^t0l0'*m 



0^^0^*>mi*m0i0^'0^<mm0wm0<0i 



00*0>0t0l0t0mt00^^^00t0>0t00t0^0i 



wn»wMiM#w^viffM#«»tfM«wwt 



II. — Civil History. 
As has been already observed, the peninsula formed a portion of 

the district de Nevyd, granted at a very early period to the Len- 
nox family, and continuing in their possession till the close of the 
fifteenth century. In the year 1489, the Earl of Lennox seems 
to have been engaged in measures rather of a treasonable charac- 
ter, for which he had forfeited the royal favour. The records of 
the Scottish Parliament contain a declaration and ratification of 
his pardon ; but the forfeiture from all his property was not with- 
drawu; for, in that same year, the lands of Roseneath were a royal 



ROSENEATH, 115 

gift to Colin, the first Earl of Argyle. It does not appear that 
the whole of the Roseneath district, or of the lands de Nevyd was 
bestowed upon Argj'le, for down to the beginning of the seven- 
teenth century, the property of that family, even in the* isle* was 
limited to its southern extremity. The new acquisition, however, 
was of importance in the history of that illustrious family, being 
its first territorial coimection with the western Lowlands, which 
thus extended its influence beyond its original limits, and great- 
ly facilitated, in later ages, its predominance for more than a 
century, amid the agitations and antipathies of a tramsition coun- 
try, so to speak, consummating the demolition of one, and con- 
struction of another system of religious opinions. The first pro- 
prietor of Roseneath was a man eminent for his wisdom in con- 
duct His integrity of principle, and his talent for public affairs, 
were evinced by the ofiices he filled, having been Lord High 
Chancellor of Scotland, and plenipotentiary at the celebrated Nor- 
thampton conference ; by his fidelity to the last to his sovereign, 
amid the rebellious nobles ; and by the confidence reposed in him, 
notwithstanding, by James IV. on his accession to the throne. The 
occasional presence or residence of the successive Earls of Argyle 
must have materially affected the civil and religious condition 
of this district, but especially when they abjured the Romanist su- 
perstitions. The fourth earl was the first nobleman of his country 
who embraced the Scripture faith of the Reformation ; and as he 
cherished in his household the teachers of the truth, his dependents 
and tenantry would unquestionably share the blessedness which he 
enjoyed himself, and which, in his celebrated letter to the furious 
and bigoted Primate, he evinces so strong a desire to secure for 
them. 

Subsequently, during the tyranny of the latter Stewarts, the 
Lowland Presbyterians often found shelter on this side the Gare- 
loch, as the names and traditional histories of several families, 
residing here for many generations, indicate. It is curious, indeed, 
to observe how tradition sometimes extends the line of its vague 
remembrance. An old woman of the name of Chalmers preferred 
a claim some years ago for sessional relief, grounding it on the al- 
leged fact, that her " mother's forbears had for fifteen, and her fa- 
ther's forbears for twenty-five generations been residenters in the 
parish." The truth of her story was not difficult to expiscate, al- 
though tradition had so rapidly elongated her genealogical tree, for 
there is little doubt but that Chalmers of Gadgirth, a leader of the 



116 DUMBARTONSHIIIK. 

Covenanters, was the chief of her ancestors, who had found their 
way across the Frith of Clyde during the troubles of the western 
Lowlands, to enjoy the protection of the family of Argyle. 

Notwithstanding the accounts that are generally given that Bal- 
four of Burley, one of the assassins of Sharpe, passed over to Hol- 
land, and died in the service of the Prince of Orange, there are 
strong presumptions that he found an asylum in the same penin- 
sula, and that, having assumed the name of Salter, his descendants 
continued here for several generations. They were always consi- 
dered of more gentle kin than the tenantry around them; their 
family traditions, it is said, uniformly so identified their ancestor. 
The last of this race died about thirty years ago. 

The effect of this immigration and settlement from the Lowlands 
was traceable in the earlier disuse of the Gaelic language in this 
than in the contiguous parish ; of which this may be stated as con- 
clusive evidence, that there were Gaelic services at communions in 
the neighbouring church of Row, although not hal^ a mile across 
the Gareloch, for fifty years after they had been laid aside in Rose- 
neath. 

Antiquities^ Sfc, — There are no ruins or monuments to throw 
any light on the more remote history of the spfct, with the excep- 
tion of the debris of an old Danish or Norwegian fort at Knockderry, 
on the Loch Long shore. This must have been coeval at least 
with the battle of Largs, and is admirably situated for observation, 
commanding an extensive range of the frith and its shores in all di- 
rections. It is certain that the Danes sailed a,long the northern 
shore of the parish to Arrochar, and that, having conveyed their 
boats across the isthmus of Tarbet, they devastated the islands of 
Loch Lomond, and the contiguous district Thus, in the absence 
of more authentic information, we may gather from witnessing the 
ruins of the antique stronghold, fitted to protect them, either as 
they advanced or retired, that these now peaceful shores were once 
the scene of violence and bloodshed. It may be noticed in pas- 
sing, that though the term Loch Long, sufiBciently characterizes the 
form of the waters that bound the parish in the west, yet it does 
not primarily refer to their appearance at all, but to the ancient ex- 
pedition alluded to, and strictly means the lake of ships ; and no 
doubt the classical reader may see in this, not a very distant or in- 
distinct connexion with the longiB naves of the Romans. 

There is a precipitous rock of conglomerate on the north of 
the castle called Wallace's leap, which is traditionally monumental 



ROSENEATH. 117 

of similar occurrences at a less distant period in the south of the 
peninsula. On one occasion, as the story goes, Wallace, having been 
hotly pursued by his enemies, galloped in the direction of this 
cliflT, and having no other way of escape, leaped his horse from its 
lofty brink. The poor steed was killed upon the spot, and its 
grave is still marked by a rude block described as its tombstone ; 
but Wallace himself made for the Gareloch, swam across, and so 
escaped his Saxon pursuers. Such is the tale of tradition ; but 
Blind Harry describes a visit of his hero to the " Isle" under more 
auspicious circumstances : for instead of hurrying hence as a fugi- 
tive in imminent peril of his life, he took and set on 6re and de- 
molished the castle, and then cros^d in triumph to Fasslane, a re- 
sidence of the Earl of Lennox, whose patriotism never gave way 
ID those days of aristocratic apostacy. To use the language of the 
old ministrel, 

Yan to F&5lan ye wortbe Scot yan pass, 
Quhar Erie Malcolm was bydand at defence, 
Kicbt glad wa« he of Wallace gude presence. 

In what condition the castle remained for centuries, or whether 
it was ever rebuilt or possessed while within the Lordship of Len- 
nox, it is impossible now to say. About 1630, it seems to have 
been fitted up by the Marquis of Argyle, as a subsidiary residence 
to the old family mansion of Inverara. A small castellated build, 
ing situated on the point south of Campsail bay, the late Duke 
enlarged, and surrounded it with more commodious suites of apart- 
ments. About thirty years ago, Rosneath Castle was once more 
burnt to the ground, which gave occasion to his Grace, then a very 
aged man, thus piously to express his gratitude to Divine Provi- 
dence, as he viewed the conflagration from Ardencaple on the op- 
posite shore, ** I thank my God I have another house to go to." 

Of religious houses there are no ruins, although the names of 
several places indiciite their former existence, and tradition con- 
firms the impression conveyed by the name. Of these, Kilcraigin, 
the chapel of the Rock, and Port Kill, the harbour of the chapel, 
may be given as examples. Some traditions attaching to these 
spots have already been alluded to; and it may further be stated, that 
the bodies of the dead used to be brought thither from the Hebrides 
and other districts of Argyleshire, and even from Ireland, as if to 
enjoy a more sacred and happier sepulture in ground, from a 
very early period imagined to be of peculiar sanctity. In one of 
the fields near Port Kill, several stone coflins were found about 
thirty years ago. They were of very rude construction ; and the 



ri8 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

relics of the dead they contained had become as the dust that en« 
closed them. 

On the farm of Marson, the last ruins of what seemed to have 
been some ancient chapel, were employed in completing the en- 
closures of that district, regarding which some interesting tradi- 
tions were in circulation among the people; very much resembling 
those of the crusade adventures. In the contiguous farm of Mem- 
big, there is a deeply affecting spot by a beautifully sequestered lit- 
tle bay overhung with lofty trees, which cannot be omitted, when not- 
ing the few antiquities, if they can be so called, which the '* isle" 
contains. There is indeed nothing seen there monumental of the 
doings or sufferings of man ; only the green sward meets the eye, 
and no relics of any former age ; but who can look on it without 
emotion ? it is the traditionary burial place of unchristened infants, 
during the iron tyranny of the papal delusion. A sweetly solemn 
seclusion, as if a dark and severe superstition, half relenting its own 
uncharitableness, and yielding to a certain compunctious tender- 
ness of feeling, had sought for the loveliest spot in this beautiful 
" isle," for the repose of those babes whose dust it had harshly 
doomed to exile from the sepulchre of their fathers. 

Modem Buildings, — After the destruction of the old castle, the 
late Duke of Argyle founded another mansion in 1803, not on the 
old site, but retiring from the shore more towards the bosom of 
the Bay of Campsail. It is from a splendid design by J. Bononi 
of London, in Romanesque, or rather modern Italian style of archi- 
tecture. The general effect is exceedingly graceful and elegant. 
It has two principal fronts, to the north and to the south. The 
former is adorned with a magnificent portico, approximating to the 
Roman Ionic, and projecting so far as to admit of a carriage-way 
being within it. A circular tower rises from the centre of the 
building, surrounded by a balustrade at the summit, from which 
there is one of the most splendid panoramas that can possibly be 
conceived. 

The situation, although in some respects inferior to that of the 
old castle, and not perhaps the best that might have been other- 
wise selected on the grounds, is happy in many respects ; and the 
castle itself, with its magnificent environs of woods, and waters, 
and mountains, contains, in rich variety and profusion such ele- 
ment); of beauty and sublimity, as those who are strangers to the 
shores of the Gareloch may find it exceeding difficult to see any 
where else. 



ROSENEATH. ]19 

The Easter House, formerly the seat of the ancestors of the 
present Ducal family, of the house of Argyle, is remarkable for 
its position, from the magnificence of its back-ground, and the 
yew avenue, with its parallel of lofty limes extending to the church 
— ^a grouping which excites very much the admiration of strangers. 

Besides, there have been, within the last twenty years, erected 
throughout the parish, chiefly on the Gareloch, a considerable 
number of villas and cottages, which, if not distinguished for ar- 
chitectural elegance, generally occupy situations which command 
most interesting prospects of the surrounding scenery. 

Maps, jfc. — There have been very minute maps, plans, and 
surveys recently made for the respective land-owners ; but there are 
DO letters or documents existing which particularly illustrate the 
history and antiquity of the parish. The sessional records do 
not extend back above seventy years, and have not been regularly 
or fiilly kept. A pretty correct list of the births, marriages, and 
deaths has been kept for the last twenty years. 

There are regular half-yearly meetings of the heritors and kirk- 
session for the distribution of poor's-money ; and notices of these 
have been regularly engrossed, in a separate volume, for the last half 
century. 

Heritors. — There are only four heritors in the parish : The 
Duke of Argyle ; his Grace's brother. Lord John Campbell ; Co- 
lin Campbell, Esq. of Pealton ; and Dugald Cumming, Esq. of 
Baremman. The last only is resident in the parish. 

Eminent Persons^ 8fc. — Respecting various members of the 
Argyle family, whose names are honourably associated with their 
country's history, reference might be made to the public records, 
since none of the events in which they bore so conspicuous a part 
happened here, or are especially connected with this locality, — it 
being uncertain, besides, whether any of them were natives of this 
parish ; yet, as it seems to have been ai*avourite residence with 
one of these illustrious men, the Marquis of Argyle, a notice of 
his character may be inserted from one of the historians of his 
own age. 

" He was a man of singular piety, prudence, authority, and elo- 
quence ; and though he had been much envied and calumniated, 
yet his death did abundantly vindicate him. He left his desolate 
family upon the Lord's providence and the King's uncertain favour. 
As he was a very great support to the work of reformation, so it 
was buried with him in one grave for many a year." 



120 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

His widow continued to reside in the castle which he had re- 
built, nor can the insertion be resisted of this beautiful eulogium 
on one who so long hallowed these sequestered shores by her pre- 
sence. " His noble lady, Lady Margaret Douglas, a lady of sin- 
gular piety and virtue, bore the sad shock with other both per- 
sonal and domestic afflictions, with great patience and incredible 
fortitude, giving herself always to prayer and fasting, and minis- 
tering to the necessity of the saints." In the old Castle* one of 
their daughters was married to the Earl of Caithness, whom Mid- 
dleton, the brutal minister for Scotland, (one of those dissolute 
bacchanals to whom Charles II. conBded che government of his 
kingdom,) *' threatened to kick with his foot when sitting on her 
knees before him, begging her dead fether Argyle's head to be 
buried." 

The fate of the next Argyle, rather a rash patriot, the victim of 
royal resentment and jealousy, is well known ; although, perhaps, 
the particulars of his escape from his first imprisonment are fami- 
liar only to the readers of the more minute and circumstantial bio- 
graphies. They were of a romantic cast, and reflect exceeding 
credit upon the self-command and dexterity of his step-daughter, 
the Lady Sophia Lindsay, to whom, after his arrival in the Low 
Countries, he addressed a poem well expressed, and throughout 
containing a pleasing vein of religious sentiment The following 
lines might be applied to the present phase of our own community, 
and are quoted to show how curiously in certain cycles men are 
the agents or the victims of the same ecclesiastical and political an- 
tagonisms : 

The world is here as I have seen, 
All do cry down what is — up what hath hecn ; 
Debate for government in church and state, 
Are still the deviPs delight. 



* The castle was the scene o£ superstitious omens of bis untimely end. According 
to Baillie, " all the dogs on the day Charles 1 1, landed in England, did take a strange 
howling and staring up to my lady*s bedchamber for some time together. The Mar- 
quis's sister. Lady Kenmure, * from a little skill of physiognomy which Mr Alex- 
ander Colville, Justice Deput,an old servant of the house, had taught her, had said 
some years ago that her brother would die in blood.'* *' When the Lord Marquis of 
Argyle went from Inverara to Roseneath in his birline, when going up to sec the King 
after his return from exile, Mr Gordon, minister, with some others, accompanied 
bim to the boat, and after said lord wus upon his voyage they, returning home, m«t 
a dumb man, who fells a whining and mourning, and having a staff in his hand, laid 
down the staff on the ground, and lays his body on the ground, laying his neck upon 
tke stafi^ and smyting the upper part of his neck with the edge of his band, he arosQ 
from the ground and |K>iuted at my lA>rd Argyle in the birline, which accordingly fell 
out, for he was beheaded.*' 



ROSBNEATH. 121 

Dr Andersoo, the well knowD founder of the Andersonian losti- 
tutioD of Glasgow, was the son of a former minister of the parish, 
and was bom in the manse. He was a man of eminent talent 
and various attainments, and will long be remembered ashaving first 
realized the idea of bringing within reach of the labouring classes 
the philosophy and science of the chartered universities. 

Matthew Stewart, one of the most distinguished of the Scottish 
mathematical scholars, perhaps better known as the father of the 
celebrated Dugald Stewart, was for some years minister of Rose- 
neath. There are still current among the older people, some ra^- 
ther amusing traditions respecting his singular absence of mind, 
and the avenue of yew trees, in itself so remarkable, leading 
from the church to the old family seat of the Campbells of Ma- 
more, has acquired rather a classical interest, from having been the 
frequent and favourite scene of his peripatetic meditations.* 

III. — Population. 

Since the date of the former Statistical Account, the popula* 
tion has been gradually increasing. Then it was stated to be only 
894, now it consists of 709 souls. The agricultural improvements 
of the intermediate period easily account for this : having render- 
ed necessary the employment of additional labourers, and increas- 
ed the productiveness of the soil. The Government census of 1831 
shows a still higher number, but that was a partial augmentation 
arising from a temporary cause, the working of two slate quarries 
which had been opened on two different properties, but which have 
since been closed. 

The number of families is 156, and the average of births, mar- 
riages, and deaths, during the last seven years, has been 17, 4, 
and 9^ respectively. 

It may be remarked, that, while the average of each family is 
not more than A^^^ the average of children bom in each produc- 
tive marriage is so high as 5/x 5 ^^^ ^^ ^' unworthy of note, that 
from a calculation regarded as accurate that of all the children 

• Tt seems not just to pass over, without some particular notice, tlic extraordinary 
instance of Isabella Campbell, who indeed, although in humble life, might have been 
named among the eminent persons connected with the parish. Successive ^itions 
of her memoirs, consisting of many thousand copies, have been printed ; and it may 
be truly said, that wherever the English language is spoken, the knowledge of her 
godly example has found its way. The letters, although she had no other advantage 
than what the cottage school afforded, are written with great elegance and beauty, 
admirably showing how the habitual contemplation of the glorious revelation of Divine 
truth may supersede the ordinary means of mental cultivation and refinement. 



122 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

born to the heads of families now in the parish, and resident for 
the last forty years, ^%% are still alive. 

To whatever cause so small a mortality may be attributed, the 
salubrity of the air, the general healthiness and sober habits of the 
parents, or the skill and care with which they nurture their ofiF- 
spring, it is a fact not a little remarkable in the history of human 
life. Large families, indeed, frequently reach mature age without a 
single breach, and sometimes with scarcely the experience of any 
acute disease ; and instances of longevity, it is believed, are much 
more numerous than in most parishes of similar extent. 

Of the whole population l-9th are above sixty years of age, 1-1 8th 
above seventy. Many are considerably beyond eighty. Several have 
reached their ninetieth year, and although only one female is 
older (in her ninety- third,) a few years ago there were several living 
nearly a century old, and one female died in her hundred and third, 
who a twelvemonth before had displayed such strength of consti- 
tution, and such tenacity of life, as to have recovered entirely from 
a severe dysentery of several weeks duration. 

Regarding one venerable lady, whose age extended to within a 
little of a century, it is worthy of record, that, as each Sabbath re- 
turned, she regularly committed to memory, as in the days of her 
youth, a portion of scripture, with some psalm or hymn, or spiri- 
tual song, to supply her wakeful nights, or when she was alone, as 
she used to say, with materials of reflection and devotion. 

The great bulk of the population now are engaged in agricul- 
tural pursuits, and the tradesmen are of such crafts as are need- 
ful to supply the wants of a rural district. There is neither a 
baker nor butcher in the parish, but the contiguous towns compen- 
sate that deflciency. 

Character of the People^ Sfc. — In their general deportment, they 
are well conducted, sensible, and judicious in the management of 
their affairs, not distinguished, perhaps, for enterprise or energy, 
but steady and industrious, exceedingly neighbourly and kind, and 
although with some exception?, compared with other parishes, 
exemplary in their attendance on religious ordinances. 

Very much as one family the parishioners dwell together, and in 
the interchange of kind offices there but seldom occurs any inter- 
ruption. InsurmounUible difiSculties are in the way of ascertaining 
intimately the amount of religious principle actuating any commu- 
nity. It has been remarked they do generally attend public wor- 



ROSENEATH. 123 

ship; besides, it merits notice, that many have family worship 
daily, and are readers of the Scriptures, while occasionally there 
have been remarkable examples among them of the transforming 
power of the truth of God. The periodical influx of strangers for 
the summer months, although in some temporal rospects an advan- 
tage^ is not to be regarded without serious apprehensions in its 
moral and religious bearings. Occasionally very estimable persons 
are met with among this fluctuating population, whose temporary 
residence is even a blessing to our secluded community ; but there 
has always hitherto been a leaven of ungodly scomers among our 
summer visitants. Incapable of laying aside habits intrinsically 
criminal, they aggravate their guilt by transferring them where they 
are more obtrusively ofiensive. As if long accustomed to think 
that ** man made the town," they seem to conclude that he " made 
the country" also ; and it ought to be known through such a me- 
dium as a statistical survey of the parish, that there are many persons 
of respectable stations in life from the commercial districts, so lost 
to all sense of decorum, as systematically to disturb the devotions 
of a peaceful people, by retiring during the service, should conti- 
nuance to its close unexpectedly interfere with the projected relaxa« 
tions and amusements of the day. Some bolder, or more hard- 
ened in their desecration, attempt no such compromise with their 
conscience, as to attend any portion of the service; but while 
others are reverently occupied, may occasionally be seen prowling 
around the walls of the church, or along its contiguous avenues, 
contemptuous of the worship of the God whose works they pre- 
tend to admire. 

Only one illegitimate birth occurred in the parish in the course 
of the last three years. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The parish consists of 6140 
acres, of which about 3000 are uncultivated moorland, although 
of these it is calculated 500 are capable of profitable culture, 520 
are under valuable wood plantations of various ages, and 720 of 
old and natural copse, which leave about 1 900 acres of ground 
cultivated, or occasionally in tillage. 

In the grounds of the Castle, and the environs of the church, 
and the site of the ancient House of Campsail, are chiefly found 
the trees of any considerable age and magnitude, and these are 
of all varieties ; ash, elm, beech, plane, lime, oak, yew, horse chest- 



1 24 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

nut, holm oak, cedar, with various species of fir, &c. Some of these 
are magnificent trees; the silver firs of Campsail have already 
been particularly noted. . 

Those planted of late years consist of all varieties of the pine 
tribe, with oak, ash, and birch, which are indigenous to the soil. 
Within the last thirty years, the appearance chiefly of the south- 
ern district of the parish has been greatly improved by numerous 
plantations, harmonizing exceedingly well with the more ancient 
trees of the Castle grounds, and the natural woods skirting the 
shore. 

The Gallowhill, for example, which lies immediately opposite 
Greenock, a few years ago, was a mere heath and furze cover for 
game, but now bears to its summit a luxuriant forest of this descrip- 
tion, and which, resting on a base of beautifully pendant fields, 
highly cultivated, forms one of the most interesting and remarkable 
objects to be found in any locality. The woods are kept in good 
order, all fenced and drained, and according to the most approved 
rules periodically thinned. 

Rent of Land, — The average value of land under the plough 
may be rated at L. 1, ds. per acre; the charge for grazing a cow, 
L.2, 10s.; and, for a full-grown sheep, 5s. The rental of the pa- 
rish may be estimated rather below L.3500. 

Rate of Wages. — Agricultural labour averages Is. lOd. ; arti- 
sans, 2s. 6d. per day. Farm servants are hired at L.7 and L.8 
for the half year, with bed, board, and washing. On three or four 
farms only are there married ploughmen, who receive, in lieu of fixed 
money wages, allowance in produce with free house, garden, and 
cow's grass, amounting in the aggregate to L.d2. 

Implements used in husbandry cost thus, — an iron plough, 
L.4, 10s.; pair of wooden harrows, L. 1, 15s.; wheelbarrow, L. i, 
5s.; one horse box-cart, L.8, 10s. Sawing of timber, — yellow 
pine, ds. 6d. ; hardwood, 4s* per 100 feet. 

Breed of Cattle. — The common breed is Ayrshire, and a con- 
siderable portion of the parks is under grazing for black and 
West Highland cattle. A few sheep are kept ; and on one farm 
a small herd of goats. — An association has been lately formed for 
improvement in this branch of rural economy, and it may be stated 
as a token of its probable success, that, at the last annual meeting 
of the Highland Society held in Glasgow, two oxen fed on the 
farm of Mr Lorn Campbell, his Grace's chamberlain, under whose 

8 



ROSENBATH. 125 

auspices the association has been formed, greatly distanced all 
other competitors, and were, indeed, supposed to have been the very 
Bnest specimens ever reared of that peculiar bred. 

Hutbandry. — The general character of the husbandry is im- 
proving chiefly by inclosing and draining on the modern system, 
which might, however, be carried to a still greater extent Nearly 
the whole of the cultivated ground is inclosed by hedge and stone- 
dikes, and on some farms there have been reclaimed lands to com- 
plete the uniform aspect of the fields, which indicate a very de- 
termined spirit of agricultural improvement. 

To this, throughout the parish generally, there is no peculiar ob- 
stacle, but the want of better farm buildings, which, with very few 
exceptions, are inconvenient, — not in good repair and of limited 
extent ; and sometimes a lack of sufficient capital. For the pro- 
duce there is a steady and constant market, with easy access and 
water carriage for any amount of stimulating and enriching ma- 
nure ; while the sympathy and encouragement of a kind and m- 
telligent proprietary have the natural effect of giving no small energy 
to the farmer's proceedings. The ordinary duration of a lease is 
nineteen years, on terms that seem favourable to the occupier, and 
such as are fitted to secure the full benefit of his compact with the 
landlord. The enclosures are very complete, and are in good repair, 
perhaps more thoroughly suited to the purposes of the farmer, than 
those of any other parish in the district. 

Quarries and Mines. — Of the latter little need be said. The 
parish contains both limestone and slate, but neither has hitherto 
been productive. The lime can at all times be procured from the 
north of Ireland in abundance, and at less expense than the far- 
mers could prepare it on their own fields. 

A few years ago, two slate quarries were opened by the Duke of 
Argyle and Mr Gumming of Baremman, on their respective pro- 
perties. Both were wrought for some time but unproductively, and 
were abandoned by their respective proprietors. The slate, how- 
ever, is of excellent quality, and Mr Gumming lately re-opened 
his quarry with greater prospects of success. 

Fis/ieries. — Both salmon and herring fishing in their season 
are carried on to a considerable extent on both shores of the pa- 
rish. 

Produce, — The average yearly value of all kinds of produce, cal- 
culated pretty exactly may be thus rated : 



L.2000 








1500 








400 








90 








1200 








600 








100 









126 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Value €l all kinds of gnin, .... 

Of potatoes and tumipa, ..... 

Of hay cnlUTatedy . ' . 

(Meadow trifling) 

or flax for flannel, are ..... 

Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 2, 10ft. for each cow or flill- 

grown ox, and for each sheep, 58. . . . 

Annual thinning from plantation grounds, 
Of salmon fishing, .... . 

L.5820 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Occasionally sales are effected in Glasgow and elsewhere ; seed 

oats are sometimes exported to Ireland, and potatoes to the colo- 
nies; but Greenock is the chief market for all descriptions of farm 
produce from the parish, to which there is a ready access by the 
two ferries of Row and Kilcraigin. By the former, (on the Gare- 
loch shore) and about six miles from Greenock quay, the farmer can 
convey his articles to market in steamers every day ; by the latter, 
which is on the Loch Long shore, where the estuary is about three 
miles wide, in the regular packet-boat on Mondays and Fridays. 

Villages. — There are several little groups of cottages, scarcely 
one of which can be termed a village, unless, indeed, the Clachan 
lay claim to that distinction among those of the hill of Campsail, 
Kilcraigin, Barber, or the mill of Reheane. In none of these, are 
there above ten or twelve families, and in the Clachan itself there 
are not sixty souls. 

Each family in these groups occupies a separate or self-contain^ 
ed cottage, so that although contiguous or rather crowded together, 
each thus enjoys a certain domestic privacy. Very few of the cot- 
tages are without a ben^ the comfort of which is so felt by the poor- 
est of the people. It is of no mean importance in their domestic 
economy, for very obvious purposes ; but it may be observed that 
it is prized in proportion to the diffusion of the power and habit 
of reflection, especially when the mind becomes religiously im- 
pressed. Such a family accommodation in their humble dwellings 
facilitates the attainment of that quiet and seclusion so indispensa- 
ble for those exercises with which a stranger cannot intermeddle. 

Means of Communication. — There are no turnpike roads; but 
about twenty-four miles of carriage roads, kept in excellent repair^ 
traverse the parish in various directions, with the exception of not 
more than three miles, the isthmus extending from Coalport to Fer- 
nivarry, they entirely surround the peninsula, and bisect it first across 
the dingle of Campsail Bay, then at Mamore, thus connecting the 
Loch Long and Gareloch sides of the parish, while another line. 



ROSENEATH. 127 

longttudiDally stretching from Portkillto Pattown, along the' farm- 
steadings of the west, very much facilitates all intra-parochial com- 
munication. An additionalline bisecting the ridge between Kilcraigin • 
and Mamore would afford a more direct access to the Row ferry, 
and the church from the Loch Long side farms, and contribute to the 
comfort of a very considerable portion of the population. 

From the position of the parish, our extra-parochial communi- 
cation is chiefly by water, for which since the use of steamers, there 
are abundant facilities. Not many years ago, an open packet 
boat from the Row and Kilcraigin ferries was the ordinary mode of 
conveyance to Greenock ; often against wind and tide would hours 
be spent in crossing the frith ; now, there are two or three steam- 
boats at all seasons, and in summer, arrivals and departures at the 
Grareloch ferry seven or eight times a day. At all times, by the 
row-boat, passengers can cross the Gareloch for the interior to the 
east The channel of the ferry, at low water certainly not more 
than one-sixth, widens, with the return of the tide, to upwards of 
half a mile. 

Of late years, a daily penny post subsidiary to Helensburgh, has 
been added to our means of communication. It was established 
on the condition that, although arriving on the Sabbath, no bag 
should be made up or dispatched as on other days. Its time has 
rather varied. At present, it arrives at twelve and departs at half- 
past two. 

Ecclesiastical State. — In the twelftli century Rosneath was a 
parsonage, the patronage of which belonged to the Earl of Len- 
nox. The territory which the name then included, with the pa- 
tronage of the church, Amelec, a younger son of Allwyn, Earl of 
Lennox, obtained for his patrimony in 1225, granting the church 
with all its pertinents in perpetual alms to the monastery of Paisley. 
By an agreement in 1227, between the Bishop of Glasgow and 
Abbot of Paisley, the monks of that abbey were allowed to appro- 
priate the church of Roseneath, and it continued in their possession 
till the Reformation. They enjoyed the whole of the revenue, and 
employed a curate to perform divine service. 

At the Reformation, the revenue was let by the Abbot for L.146, 
13s. 4d. per annum; and in 1587 the patronage and tithes, then 
held by Lord Claud Hamilton for life, as commendator of Paisley, 
were granted to him and his heirs for ever, along with the other 
property of the monaster)', now inherited by the Marquis of Aber- 



1 28 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

corn. The patronage of the church was afterwards acquired by 
the Argyle family, with whom it still remains. 

The church, although situated within about two miles from 
the southern boundary, from the peculiar form of the parish, is 
pevhaps more convenient than it could be elsewhere for an equal 
number of the people. It was built in 1780, rather prior to the 
revival of that taste in architecture which has adorned so many of 
our rural districts with convenient or rather elegant churches. 
Were it a matter of much importance, one might regret a struc- 
ture had not been erected to harmonize in some degree with the 
exquisite beauty of the environs. It is an edifice of the oblong or 
barn form, and that of the very plainest description. The belfry 
must always be excepted,, which is singularly synmietrical in its 
proportions, — the only relique of that more ancient fabric, which 
the modern parallelogram supplanted : cruciform, and dedicated to 
the Virgin Mary,* very aged people still speak with considerable 
reverence of its venerable and picturesque appearance. Its ex- 
ceeding uncomfortableness had determined the heritors to demo- 
lish it; and it is very probable that the incurable damp in its 
walls may induce, respecting the present church, a similar de- 
cision. 

It is, however, sufficiently commodious for the indigenous or or- 
dinary population ; but in summer, when the cottages and villages 
throughout the parish are studded with sea-bathers from the in- 
terior, it is often so crowded as to render the congregation very 
uncomfortable. 

The living consists of 210^ bolls of meal, 26 1 of bear, and 
L. 8, 10s. in money, with an allowance of L. 5 by his Grace the 
Duke of Argyle for communion elements. The teinds are ex- 
hausted. The glebe contains not more than 6^ acres, the greater 
portion of which is very inferior land. 

The manse is newly built, in every respect affording a comfort- 
able residence for the minister's family. The former manse, al- 
though not an old house, and thoroughly repaired about twenty years 
ago, on account of damp, the heritors, perhaps wisely for them- 
selves, at all events most considerately of the minister's comfort, 

* This only traditionally, — for in whatever way the assumed sanctity of the place 
depended upon the patronage of the Virgin, even in the charter of the twelfUi cen- 
tury, the church is designated the chuich of St Nicholas. It is probable the church or 
religious house at Kilcratgin, originated the relationship, which secures to this isle 
the soubriquet of the Virgin promontory, the more popular translation of the name. 



ROSENEATH. 12[) 

instead of enlarging, resolved to convert into a quarry for the pre- 
sent edifice. 

153 fiunilies attend the Established Church ; and 3 are Dissent- 
ing or Seceding families. 

JSducatum. — The different branches of a commercial and clgs- 
sical education are very efficiently taught by the parochial school- 
master ; and every day the children under his care are instructed 
in the principles of religion. The average attendance may be rated 
at 70, although in the winter season upwards of 100 sometimes 
are at scbooL The school-house was built a few years ago, a very 
handsome and commodious structure, superior to any in the county, 
reflecting great credit, at once upon the liberality and taste of 
the heritors. The schoolmaster's house is at a little distance 
ffom it, immediately contiguous to the church, with accommoda- 
tions much superior to what the statute provides for that class of 
most deserving men. His garden is much less than the legal di- 
mensions, but he enjoys an allowance in lieu of that deficiency. 
The salary is the maximum, which, with the fees, 2s. 6d. for read- 
ing, 3s. for writing, and 3s. 6d. for arithmetic, may constitute an 
income of between L. 70 and L.80 per annum. 

The only other school in the parish is at Knockderry, on the 
shore of Loch Long. The teacher there has a salary of L. 35 
a-year, guaranteed to him by Mr Lome Campbell, his Grace's fac- 
tor ; and although the parents pay at the rate of 5s. per quarter 
for each child, the fees fall greatly short of the sum guaranteed, 
from the circumstance of the school commanding pupils from a 
very limited population, but whose distance from the parish school 
rendered its erection necessary, — the expense of which was solely 
met by the Duke of Argyle. Although less, it is built upon the 
same principle as the parochial school-house. Both houses are 
much more commodious than at present is needful, and may be 
considered as anticipating any probable increase of population in 
their respective districts, for a century to come. 

It may be stated, that the people are universally anxious to have 
their children educated. All the natives of the parish, male and 
female, are taught at least to read and write ; and although indi- 
viduals from time to time are found that can do neither, they are 
generally natives of Argyleshire, servants to the different farmers. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are nearly 30 on the poor 
list ; these, chiefly desolate widows, and frail lone women — only 
two men, indeed, the one blind, the other lame, receive any relief 

DUMBARTON. I 



130 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

from the funds. The amount of poverty is not so great as such a 
number in so small a parish might seem to indicate, for assistance 
is rendered to the needy long before they reach that extremityof des- 
titution, which in some districts seems to be held as an indispensable 
antecedent to the bestowal of public alms. The allowance varies from 
15s. to L. .5 in the year. The mean amount of collections at the 
church amounts to about L.35 : there is also interest on L. 170, and 
a donation of L. 10 from the Duke of Argyle. At present, there are 
three lunatics in different asylums chargeable upon the parish. 
To meet this extraordinary outlay, the heritors, by a judicious ar* 
rangement, subscribed, in proportion to their respective interests in 
the parish, the greater portion of the necessary funds ; and for the 
reversion the kirk-session are responsible. 

One of the lunatic cases is of peculiar interest. Formerly the 
individual had been confined for more than a twelvemonth, and 
was dismissed perfectly cured. For five years he continued sane ; 
and, during thattime, he liquidated, from the proceeds of his spade 
labour, at the rate of L. 5 per annum, the whole of the outlay which 
the session had incurred. A Bible was given him as a memorial 
of God's goodness to him, and the integrity of his conduct, — which 
he had not in his possession more than two or three months, be« 
fore a relapse ensued ; and although convalescent, lie is still in 
confinement. 

When any case of more than ordinary distress occurs, the people 
are in the habit of raising contributions throughout the parish ; 
and nothing can be more conclusive of their sympathy with each 
other, than the amount which in this way is often raised. It can- 
not, perhaps, be stated that there exists any general disinclination 
in the poor to receive assistance from the session, although in- 
stances do occur of extraordinary exertions made by the kindred 
of the parties, rather than they should apply for it. One widow, 
with several children, not long ago entreated the minister to give 
her allowance to some other person, on the plea, — that her father 
was able to assist her ; and another individual, about the same 
time, prevented a subscription in behalf of his brother's family, 
who had died prematurely, on the ground that they should always 
have a share of what he himself possessed. Another example of 
no ordinary interest ought not to be omitted. One day, the mi- 
nister met two labouring men on the Gareloch shore, and, upon in- 
quiry, discovered, rather with difficulty, that they were raising money 
to assist a poor parishioner, who had been long a bed-rid invalid. 



BOSENEATH. 131 

They would take nothing ; — they were not going to the manse» 
nor to Baremman, nor the Clachan, nor Portkiln. " You have 
all enough ado with the poor, — it is right we should go among 
ourselves, the commonalty." The feeling was too sacred to re- 
press. They were allowed without further molestation to proceed 
on their way ; and they collected from among themselves about 
L. 9, which met the necessities of their young friend so long as 
he lived.* 

These instances indicate a right spirit in the people. The rea- 
diness with which they thus assist each other seems to have pre- 
vented the feeling of degradation, when they are assisted from the 
general fund, — which, indeed, they are besides led to regard in 
the light of a friendly society fund, to which in their day they had 
regularly contributed. 

It must not be omitted to observe, that, in addition to his an- 
nual donation, the Duke of Argyle allows pensions to all his infirm 
labourers, when unable to work, — also to the widows of labourers, 
and their children, until able to do something for themselves, — a 
hereditary compassionateness worthy of the patriarchal interest in 
the comfort of their dependents, which has so long distinguished the 
house of Argyle. 

Library. — A subscription librarj' exists in the parish, consisting 
of several hundred volumes in all departments of literature. It is 
rather in a more flourishing condition of late than formerly ; but 
still the number of subscribers is considerably below what even 
our limited population ought to furnish. The subscribers are 
chieflv among the labourers and artisans, not the farmers. There 
is also a small juvenile library, consisting of religious publications, 
exclusively for the use of those who attend the Sabbath school 
and the more private instruction of the minister. 

Neither friendly society nor savings bank exists in the parish, 
but several individuals, chiefly farm-servants, send their deposits 
to Greenock, and these are rather on the increase. 

Inns, — Lately there were five, now there are only two in the pa- 
rish, the ferry houses of Row and Kilcraigin. The privilege 

whicli this parish enjoys in a magistracy, which resorts to all just 

• But the most remaTltable case in the pariah of the relief of the destitute occurred 
some years ago. A young woman was supported on her deathbed by the charity of 
sympathising friends. From the subscription edition of the memoir of her life more 
than L. 600 were raised, exclusive of all expenses, and the author devoted the entire 
amount to the benefit of her surviving kindred, who are in circumstances of extreme 
poverty. 



152 DUMBARTONSHIRK. 

expedients for diminishing the opportunities of indulging in the use 
of intoxicating liquors, cannot be too highly valued. From the evil, 
likely to inundate some of the contiguous parishes, by the pro- 
prietors encouraging rather than preventing the multiplication of 
licenses, the people of this parish are comparatively secure. 

Fuel. — The ordinary fuel is coal in the southern part of the 
parish; elsewhere peat is used to a considerable extent. The 
coal is generally brought from Glasgow ; — of peat, the summit of 
the ridge affords an inexhaustible supply. Including carriage, the 
coal in ordinary years costs 6d. per cwt. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Since the date of the former Statistical Account, very consider- 
able changes must have taken place in the parish, of which a few 
examples may be given. Then, it seems there were 96 herring 
fishermen, manning with hirelings, about 40 wherries, from which 
one must conclude almost the whole effective male population 
were occupied during the season in that precarious calling. The 
farms could not but be very imperfectly cultivated ; it is well known, 
indeed, that they were generally in a very miserable condition, the 
return of produce not averaging threefold. With few exceptions, 
they merited the appellation of crofts rather than farms.* The cul- 
tivation of the soil, the tillage of this peninsular ridge, must have 
been of inferior importance in their eyes, to those labours in the 
deep waters, for the proceeds of a summer fishing were sometimes 
more than double the rental of the whole parish. Such a precari- 
ous, although often lucrative vocation, was not favourable to the 
promotion of regular habits, accompanied as it was with such prac- 
tices as obtained here. The division of funds by each boat's crew, 
was signalized by a gathering of all the neighbours, and this reci« 

* The average might now he stated at 7 or 8 seeds. On some farms L.SO, some- 
times L. 40 Sterling have been realized from an acre of potatoes, for the growth of 
which the soil generally seems peculiarly favourable. The great stimulus to agricul- 
tural improvement in the parish, was given by the late Duke of Argyle, himself inte- 
rested in rural pursuits, under the active agency of his factor, Mr 11. Campbell, one of 
the few first members of the Highland Society still surviving. He had powerful 
prejudices to combat, but with energy and decision he prosecuted, what he deemed so 
indispenable to their own improvements, and the farmers generally can now appre- 
ciate the benefits resulting from having been so resisted and controlled in the 
management of their own fields. His successor, Mr Lome Campbell, the son of a 
gentleman who occupied the same important office, nearly a century ago, most efficient- 
ly sustains the same spirit of parochial improvement — giving free efiect to the kindly 
feeling so long hereditary in the fisimily of Argyle to their tenantry : while he dis- 
plays on the splendid fields of his own farm, unmatched for beauty of situation in the 
country, those almost horticultural niceties of doing up which distinguish the ni(;st 
noted of the plains and valliesofthe lowlands. 

G 



ROSENEATH. ^ 133 

procity of ciyilities, diffused over several weeks of their vacation, 
bore very hard upon their sobriety and temperance. 

Now, not half a-dozen individuals prosecute the fishery beyond 
the shores that skirt the farms, which now, with few exceptions, 
would credita:bly bear comparison with fields of similar size in the 
most highly cultivated counties. 

Then, also, according to that Account, there were " plenty of 
whisky bouses in the parish," which must have been fatal attrac- 
tives during the long nights of winter, to the unoccupied fishermen. 
Nowthere are just two regularly licensed — " the two Ferry houses," 
if not to the parishioners, yet to the stranger and the traveller con- 
sidered indispensable conveniences. 

Previous to Huskisson's Act of 1829 for the encouragement of 
legal distillation, many of the cottagers were engaged in smuggling 
operations, like others in the mountain districts of the contiguous 
counties. The position and form of the parish rendering it pecu- 
liarly suitable for the prosecution of this unlawful manufacture and 
traffic, others than the natives burrowed with their stills in the se- 
questered ravines. For many years ihese illicit practices have been 
altogether abandoned; but when the mind of a community has been 
long familiarized to any evil, the demoralizing consequences may 
linger long after the evil itself shall have passed away. 

In those days also, and till within these very few years, other prac- 
tices, although not violating any distinct law, yet doubtless offending 
decorum, very generally prevailed. At marriages, for example, 
numerous crowds assembled, and generally they were very boiste- 
rous festivities. On the intermediate days, before the kirking, the 
young pair with their attendants, preceded by the bagpipe, per- 
ambulated the parish, visiting the cottages that had furnished their 
quota to the carnival. The ceremonies were closed by the whole 
party, after Divine service on Sabbath, adjourning for refreshment 
to the contiguous tavern. 

Now, marriages consist of small family parties ; only the nearer 
kindred of the bridegroom and the bride meet on the happy occa- 
sion, and thus is secured a far greater delicacy in the expression of 
kindly sympathies, than marked the penny or crowded bridals of 
former times. 

Baptisms were habitually desecrated by the accompanying cere- 
monies. The kindred and friends assembled with the parents after 
the dismissal of the congregation, and proceeded, like the marriage 
parlies, to eat and to drink in the house of refreshment, under the 



134 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

pretence of toasting prosperity to the child and its family. Now 
such a practice is no longer known. 

At funerals, four services or rounds of ardent spirits, with accom- 
panying viands, were considered as necessary out of " respect to 
the dead." Now, only once spirits or wine is presented, and no- 
thing can exceed the becomingness of the funeral rite. 

Again, if elsewhere New Year's Day was a festival, here it 
seemed to absorb the mind of the whole people. For weeks, the 
youths had been preparing for the great annual game ; and in one 
of the fields contiguous to the church, assembled many hundreds, 
old and young, with music and banners, either to witness or to 
join in the shinty combat of the day. At night succeeded a ball, 
which generally did not close till the dawn of the following morn- 
ing. Now the game is almost abandoned, and there is no ball. Di- 
vine service is performed in church at the ordinary hour, and this 
year, the day once so signalized with boisterous festivities, had a 
most pleasing aspect even of Sabbath tranquillity. 

This sketch of the change in the manners of the people within 
a period of not many years, may be closed with an additional il- 
lustration ; and those who have had opportunities of judging of the 
practice of the district will best know how to appreciate its singu- 
lar interest. On the Saturday evening of a communion, had ar- 
rived the usual supply for the consumption of the following day, 
as in former years : particular circumstjxnces had urged the mi- 
nister to address his people on the propriety of at once abandon- 
ing the old hereditary practice of the district, and not one indivi- 
dual resisted his counsel, or entered the threshold of the house of 
refreshments. To the end of the service they continued engaged 
in their devotions, like a quiet family parly assembled to eat the 
passover. 

These are some of the changes, among others, that might be 
noticed, as significant of an ameliorated condition of society. Re- 
lying, however, on the authority of aged people, it might seem that 
the future generations are far from the moral and religious stan- 
dard of their fathers. A very old man, not long ago, stated to the 
writer, that, although the Bay of Campsail be very beautiful, it was 
once to him more so ; when a little boy, early on a summer Sab- 
bath morning, he would go down to the shore and hear the fish- 
ermen at anchor in the bay singing the praise of God in their boats, 
for each boat then had family worship. 

Be it devoutly hoped that some future statist shall be able to say, 



CUMBERNAULD. 135 

that, early on the summer Sabbath mornings, ^^ arises the voice of 
rejoicing and salvation as in the tabernacles of the righteous," from 
all the cottages and villas around the bays of the Gareloch. 

May 1839. 



PARISH OF CUMBERNAULD. 

PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. JOHN WATSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, — Cumbernauld, in Celtic Cumar^an-alt, is said to sig- 
nify the meeting of streams, descriptive enough of the situation of this 
parish, — several brooks uniting their streams a little below the vil- 
lage of Cumbernauld. As itoriginally formed partoftheancientking- 
dom of Cumbria, comprehending the south and south-west of Scot- 
land, as well as Cumberland in England, it is supposed by some 
to have derived its name from the Cumbrians. Nothing, however, 
is more involved in mystery, than the derivation of names, and this, 
like many more, rests on mere conjecture. 

Extent^ Sfc. — The parish of Cumbernauld, situated at the east- 
em extremity of Dumbartonshire, is bounded on the west, by the 
parish of Kirkintilloch ; on the south, by the parish of New Monk- 
land; on the north and north-east, by the parishes of Kilsyth and 
Denny ; and on the east, by that of Falkirk, all in the county of 
Stirling. From east to west its length is about 8 miles, and its 
breadth from north to south from 3 to 4 miles. 

Geology, — This parish is formed of a succession of ridges of 
whinstone or trap, running in parallel lines to each other, in a di- 
rection from east to west; and excellent metal for making roads 
or paving streets, and for building farm-houses and fences, is here 
in great abundance. Freestone also abounds in various parts of 
the parish of excellent quality, and for the purpose of building is 
worked to a very considerable extent in the lands of Netherwood, 
adjoining the Forth and Clyde Canal. Limestone on the same 
lands, and also at Cumbernauld, of a very superior quality, is work- 
ed to a great extent, the former averaging above L.4000, and the 
latter L.2500 annually. The mine of Netherwood at present is 



1 IW DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

cleared of water by manual labour, and Cumbernauld by an inge* 
nious hydraulic machine ; but I apprehend that, ere long, some 
more powerful means for removing the water will be found to 
bo necessary. The dip in both is east and south-east The 
lime strata, for properly speaking there are three strata, or the 
lime post, is between 8 and 9 feet in thickness, lying between an 
indurated freestone and blaise ; on the east, it is cut off by a whin 
dike ; and on the west it is separated from the coal district by a 
ridge of sandstone. About 20 fathoms below the limestone, 
there is a stratum of coal not worked ; but as the parish lies on 
the boundaries of the coal fields, which stretch into Fife on 
the east, and into Lanarkshire and Ayrshire on the south and 
west, coal is found in different parts of the parish, but chiefly 
of that sort called smithy coal. At the Hirst, near to the free- 
stone quarry above-mentioned, it is worked to a very conside- 
rable extent. About 1400 tons will be the average output. 
Much of it is made into coke or char for the public works in 61as« 
gow, &c. About two tons of coal will make one ton of char. This 
mine is horizontal, the coal seam from 12 to 18 inches thick, — the 
dip south-east, is level free. The depth of this mine from the 
surface is from 27 to 37 fathoms. Large coal is found at a greater 
depth, and is wrought to a small extent only, not being of a good 
quality. It is supposed, however, that, by sinking to a greater 
depth, coal of a superior quality will be found. Near to this, on 
the farm of Westerwood, under lease to the Carron Company, is 
a mine of ironstone wrought by them to a small extent, but this 
mineral is found in various other places of the parish. 

Botany. — Among the few rare plants to be found here, we may 
mention Ivy-leaved duckmeat, Lemna trisulca^ on the banks of 
the Forth and Clyde canal ; Alexanders, Smymium Olusatrum^ at 
the back o' Bog ; rosebay willow herb, Epilobium angustifoliumj 
Cochlearia Armoracia, horse-radish. 

Of plantations, there may be above 500 acr^s ; consisting of oak, 
ash, elm, beech, lime, plane, alder, horse and sweet chestnut, pop- 
lars, spruce, larch, &c. which beautify, shelter, and fertilize the 
country. Holly thrives well, and grows to a large size ; and there are 
some very fine trees of a large size near to Cumbernauld* House ; 
and in the Vault glen there are some larch trees planted soon after 
the introduction of that tree into Scotland, of great height and 
girth ; also some very fine specimens of the Spanish chestnut. 

In some favoured spots, apple, plum, pear, Jind cherry trees, yield 



CUMBERNAULD* 137 

occasionally fair crops. The climate, however, seems not to be 
adapted for orchards, the finer kinds being liable to blight, and all 
sorts to canker and rust. The frosts and cold east winds in April 
and May often destroy the blossom, and render fruit in this place 
but a very precarious crop. 

Zoohgy. — Grouse and black-cock breed in the moor of Fanny- 
side, and duck and teal in the loch of that name. Pheasants, par- 
tridges, plovers, snipe, woodcock, &c. frequent the woods and low 
grounds. Some years ago the jamhe rouge^ or red-legged par- 
tridge, was introduced here by the Honourable Admiral Flemin«r, 
but it is supposed that the climate was too cold, as none of them 
are now to be seen. Swallows and martins, &c. ; cuckoos visit us 
annually. The other small birds are such as are found all over the 
country, blackbirds, thrushes, linnets, and finches, larlcs, &c — 
Among birds of prey, and these are not numerous, are the glede, 
the sparrowhawk, and the owl. There are three well-stocked 
rookeries in the parish. Crows, doubtless, are intended by the Crea- 
tor to serve a useful purpose ; but in spring and autumn, where they 
are numerous, they do.very considerable damage to both the grain 
and potato crops. 

In spring, the roebuck is to be found in the woods of Cumber- 
nauld and Castlecary, where are also a few squirrels. The other 
wild animals are, the fox, polecat, weasel, club-tailed weasel, or 
ermine, and the otter. Two wild cats were lately shot. The skin 
of one of them was nearly as large as that of a fox. I believe that 
no badgers are now found here. 

Climate, — The parish having an elevation of 230 or 240 feet 
above sealevel,the air is sharp; but though sharp it is not unhealthy. 
The prevailing winds are west and south-west, which, loaded with 
the vapours of the Atlantic, render the climate sofl and rainy. 

Hydrography. — From its elevated situation, (his parish has no 
rivers, — the Kelvin, which divides it from Kilsyth, and the Luggie, 
which separates it from New Monkland, being here inconsiderable 
streams. Fish formerly abounded, it is said, in both, and in their 
tributary rivulets ; now, however, a few trout are only to be found. 
This decrease is ascribed to the quantity of lime now laid upon 
the ground, and the flax steeped in the waters. 

With the exception of Fannyside Loch, in the moor of the same 
name, there is no fresh water lake in the parish. Formerly, there 
were others, which have been drained and turned into arable land. 
Fannyside Loch is but a few feet deep ; it covers about 60 acres 
of land, has a few pike and perch, but no trout. In its bottom and 



138 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

on its banks, there is a very fine white sand, which would answer 
well in the manufacture of glass. — The only other collection of 
waters in the parish is the Forth and Clyde Canal, which runs 
through the north side of it for about four miles from Castlecary 
on the east to Achinstary on the west. Pike and perch are found 
in the canal, and coot and wild duck are seen upon its shores. On 
a small stream near to the old house of Castlecary, there is a 
waterfall of about 80 feet, which, together with the deep dell, the 
overhanging and surrounding woods, the old mill and miller's 
bouse now in ruins, the murmuring of the water, and the songs of 
the birds which strike the ear, renders it a scene at once pictur- 
esque and romantic. 

II. — Civil History. 
I am not aware of any history of the parish extant. The Old 

Castle of Cumbernauld, together with the barony, which in the 
end of the thirteenth century belonged to John Cumyn, Earl of 
Buchan, came into the possession of the Flemings of Biggar and 
Cumbernauld, in the course of the fourteenth century, who were 
afterwards created Earls of Wigton. 

In the early period of Scottish history, the Flemings of Cum- 
bernauld are often mentioned, and make a distinguished figure in 
the transactions of those unsettled times. They came originally 
from the low countries. Under a grant of David L, Baldwin, a 
distinguished Fleming, settled at Biggar, in the upper ward of 
Clydesdale, and in the reigns of Malcolm IV. and William I. was 
Sheriff of the shire. Sir Malcolm Fleming was Sheriff of Dum- 
barton in the reign of Alexander III. Robert, his son, was one 
of the chiefs who, at the treaty of Brigham, March 12, 1289-90, 
proposed the marriage of Margaret of Scotland with Prince Ed- 
ward of England. He swore fealty to Edward, assisted at the 
murder of Cumyn at Dumfries, and was one of Bruce's associates 
in his arduous endeavours to restore the liberties of his country, 
and received from him a grant of the lands of Leinsie and Cum- 
bernauld, they having fallen to the Crown by the forfeiture of 
Comyn. Sir Malcolm Fleming, his eldest son, remained true to 
the family of Bruce, and belonged to one of the four corps into 
which the Scottish army was divided at the disastrous battle of 
Halidon Hill, 19th July 1333. Sir Malcolm Fleming retreated 
from the field of contest, and secured the Castle of Dumbarton, 
of which he was governor, and from thence carried in safety to 
France, the young King, David II. with his infant consort, Joanna, 
where they found protection until their return to Scotland, 4th 



CUMDl^RNAULD. 139 

May 1341, when they were safely landed at Inverbervie, a small 
sea-port on the coast of Kincardineshire. It is probable that Sir 
Malcolm remained in France during the stay of his King and 
Queen : he returned hon^e along with them, was raised to the peer- 
age by David II. who created him Earl of Wigton, and gave him a 
grant of lands in the same county. According to the English 
historians, he was taken prisoner at the battle of Durham, 7th 
October 1346 ; and it is said that David IL along with his favourite 
and faithful servant, Malcolm Fleming, was, on the 2d January 
1347, sent to the Tower of London, where he suffered a long and 
dreary captivity ; while others maintain that the Earl of Wigton 
made good his retreat from the battle of Durham, and in proof 
cite from the Calendar of Charters the following title : " De ca- 
piendo Robertum Bertram, qui Malcomum Fleming, inimicum 
Regis, evadere permisit'' He is simply called Malcolm Fleming, 
probably for this reason, that the English Government did not re- 
cognize the right of the Scottish Kings to confer titles of honour. 
Thomas Fleming, his grandson, by a deed of sale dated at Ed inburgh, 
8th February 1371, sold the Earldom of Wigton to Archibald, Earl 
of Galloway, ** pro una certa et notabili summa pecuniae propter mag- 
nas et graves discordias, et inimicas capitales, inter me et indigenas 
majores comitatus praedicti exortas." This sale was confirmed by 
King Robert II. 7ih October 1372 ; and he resigned the Barony 
of Leinzie, in Dumbartonshire, in favour of Malcolm Fleming of 
Biggar, which was confirmed by Robert IL, 20th September 1382. 
Dying without issue, he was succeeded by his cousin, Sir Malcolm, 
son of Sir Patrick Fleming of Biggar. Sir David Fleming, his 
eldest son, distinguished himself at the battle of Otterburn, 1388, 
was of the commission for a truce with England, 6th July 1406, 
attended James the Prince of Scotland to the Bass, saw him safe 
on board the ship that was to convey him to France, and as he 
returned home on the 14th of the same month, was waylaid and 
murdered by James Douglas of Balveny, afterwards seventh Earl 
of Douglas, at Hermandstone, near Edinburgh, and was buried 
at Holyroodhouse. Of Sir David, Wyntone says, 

<' Schire David Fleming of Cumbernauld, 
Lord and Knyghte baeth stout and bauld, 
Trowit, loveit, well with the King, 
Thia like guid and gentle Knyghte, 
That was baith manful, lele, and wigHt." &c. &c. 

It is not quite ascertained at what time the Flemings of Cum- 
bernauld were raised to the peerage. Robert Lord Fleming oc- 



140 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

curs in the Records of Parliament, 11th October 1466. They 
were probably ennobled by James II. who died in 1460. 

In 1563, Lord Fleming held the Castle of Dumbarton for Queen 
Mary, when Captain Crawford, having bribed some of the workmen 
about the Castle, surprised and took it. Lord Fleming made 
his escape ; but Lady Fleming, the French Ambassador Verac, 
together with John Hamilton, Archbishop of St Andrews, were 
made prisoners. 

By patent dated Whitehall, 19th March 1606, John, sixth 
Lord Fleming, was created Earl of Wigton and Lord Fleming of 
Biggar and Cumbernauld. John, sixth Earl, went with James II. 
to St Germains, voted against the Union with England, and, being 
suspected on the breaking out of the Rebellion in 1715, was, by 
a warrant of Major-General Williams, the Governor, committed 
prisoner to Edinburgh Castle, 20th August 1715, and on 24th 
June 1716, was liberated by an order of the High Court of Jus- 
ticiary. In 1 736, he was made King's Chamberlain of Fife, died 
in 1744, and was succeeded in his titles and estates by his brother 
Charles, who dying 26th May 1747, unmarried, the (estates de- 
volved to his niece, Lady Clementina Fleming, only child of John 
sixth Earl. She married, in 1735, Charles Elphinstone, third 
son of Lord Elphinstone, and who became afterwards tenth Lord 
Elphinstone. She died 1st January 1799, being eighty years of 
age. As heir of entail, the estates of Biggar and Cumbernauld 
devolved upon her second grandson, the Honourable Charles Fle- 
ming, an Admiral in her Majesty's Navy. 

The barony of Leinzie, comprehending the parishes of Kirkin- 
tilloch and Cumbernauld, originally belonged to Stirlingshire. In 
the reign of Robert I. or David II., Malcolm Fleming, then Sheriff 
of Dumbarton, got them disjoined from Stirlingshire and annexed 
to Dumbarton, while Drymen, Killearn, and other parishes were 
disjoined from Dumbarton and annexed to Stirling. An act of 
Parliament in 1503 restored them to their original counties ; but 
this act having been repealed, 8th May 1509, Leinzie was again 
annexed to Dumbarton, and Drymen, &c. to Stirlingshire. In 
1339, or thereabouts, another attempt was made to alter this ar- 
rangement, but was defeated by the Earl of Mar, then Sheriff of 
Stirlingshire. Since then, no change has been made in this ar- 
rangement.* 

' Vide, Chalmers* CaicdunlH) Hailcs* Annals, Wood's Tecrage. 



CUMBERNAULD. • 141 

Antiquities. — 'There are no remains of any religious houses ; yet 
the names of several places, as Achinbee, Achenkill, Chapelton 
Kildrum, Kilmuir, Croy, and others, would lead to infer that there 
had been several within the parish. 

The only relic of antiquity is Graham's Dike or Agricola's 
Wall, of which there are some traces. It enters the parish at the 
Bed Burn bridge, near to the Roman camp at Castlecary, 
where the turnpike road crosses the burn, and runs nearly parallel 
with the Forth and Clyde Canal, through the whole length of the 
parish till it enters the parish of Kirkintilloch, at the Barrhill, a 
little south of Achinstarey. 

No part of the wall, which is said to have been 20 feet hi;^h, 
and 24 feet thick, now remains ; but the fosse, which tradition 
states to have been 20 feet deep, and 40 feet wide, is distinctly 
to be seen throughout its whole length, part of it being used as a 
parish road. Running in a straight line, partly over elevated and 
rocky ground, little of it could have been filled with water ; but to 
'^.ompensate for this, and where most required, it had the Dullatur 
Bog, then a loch or impassable morass, upon its northern bank. 
Near its eastern extremity, on the farm of Toll-Park, the fosse, 
and part of the, road which run along its southern boundary, may 
still be distinctly seen. But, for a more particular description, we 
refer to the authors who have more minutely described it. 

Some stones with inscriptions, found in or near the wall, may 
l>e seen in Glasgow College Museum. 

In the garden at Nethercroy, near Achinstarey Bridge, there is 
to be seen a Roman altar, bearing the following inscription : — 

Nymph is, 

Vexillatio 

Lee:. VI. vie. 

V. ET. sub. FA 
6io. LIBERA. 

Into the south wall of the mansion-house of Nethercroy are 
built two stones. On one of them are three male figures clad in 
armour, and bearing spears and shields. On the other are two 
female figures, one of them as having come from the bath, regard- 
ing attentively her attendant, who is in a bending posture, as if lift- 
ing something from the ground. 

On the farm of Carrickstone or Carrigstone, on the rising ground 
nearly west of the churchjand a little to the southof the Roman wall, 
there is a large stone, called the Standing- Stone. Though con- 



142 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

siderably larger than the one above noticed, it is of the same fi- 
gure, and probably was used for the same purpose, that of an altar. 
It has no inscription, nor any figure upon it. * But it has a hole 
in it ; and tradition says, that this hole received the standard of 
Robert the Bruce, then Earl of Carrick, who here assembled his 
army before marching to the field of Bannockbum, 24th June 
1314, which decided the independence of Scotland. Supposing 
this to have been the place appointed for the rendezvous of the 
army, in a military point of view, Bruce seems to have made a ju- 
dicious selection. On the north, he had the DuUatur Bog, then 
a loch or impassable morass ; so that, in case of an attack, he had 
only to defend the narrow defile at the Castlecary on the east, or 
the narrow valley through the Balloch Bog on the west or south- 
west ; while, in case of need, he secured for himself a safe retreat, 
either uppn the River Avon and Bathgate to the south-east, or 
upon the Water of Luggie and the Clyde to the south. This ac- 
count, it is said, is to be found in some of our early historians. 

It has already been observed, that the Forth and Clyde Canal 
traverses the whole length of the parish on the north. And in its 
formation, through the Bog of Dullatur, swords, pistols, &c. the 
bodies of men and horses were found in it, and what seems some- 
what marvellous, a trooper, completely armed and seated on 
the horse, in the exact posture in which he had perished. This 
bog lay directly south of the field of the battle of Kilsyth, between 
the gallant Marquis of Montrose, and General Baillie, 15th August 
1645 ; and it is supposed, that these were some of Baillie's men 
who, in their haste to escape, being either ignorant of the ground, 
or hard pressed by their enemies, had rode into the bog and there 
perished. 

A Roman road, leading from the south to the camp at Castlecary, 
may be partially seen in themossof Fannyside; and in the same moss, 
the inhabitants direct the stranger's view to certain hollows, or hags, 
as having been places of temporary concealment for the Covenan- 
ters, or persecuted remnant during the time of Charles II. and 
his brother James. 

Near the house of Cumbernauld, there is an eminence called the 
Towe Hill, where in the olden time, the feudal Baron held his 
court The gallows-knowe, it is well known, was always near the 
Mote Hill, alias Court Hall of those times ; and we are inclined 
to suppose from the name, that the Towe Hill might be the place 
where the Baron's sentence was carried into speedy execution. 



CUMBERNAULD. 143 

Not fiu'.from this, is the Vault Glen: and till very lately the 
farm house called the Vault, on the edge of the glen, was standing ; 
whether, as its name vault would import, it was anciently a prison 
or place of confinement, is not well known. 

At the Chapelton, on the farm of Achinkill, it is supposed there 
had been a religious house and burying-ground : for upon the re • 
moval of the houses, some human bones were turned up by the 
spade and plough, but nothing else of interest was discovered. A 
century ago, January 1739, there was a very violent storm of wind, 
by which many houses were unroofed, windows broken, large trees 
blown down, and much damage done by it in many other respects. 
It is worthy of notice, that, as a very violent storm of wind hap- 
pened in January 1839, the same should have occurred in 1739. 
Session Records, 7th February 1739. The same day the session, 
^' considering that the heritors have been often called upon to re« 
pair the damage done to the kirk windows by the violent storm in 
January last, yet it remains utterly neglected by them, appointed 
a glazier to mend and refit said windows, and to be paid by their 
treasurer." 

It also appears that the year 1739 had been a bad season, for, 
20th January 1740, ^Uhe session, considering the great want and 
hardship, which a great many honest families in this parish are 
under, through the calamities of a late hail blast, and the pre* 
sent cold and dearth, agreed, that the circumstances of such fa- 
milies shall be inquired into, and their necessities carefully re- 
lieved by the several members of the session, especially the mo- 
derator, to whom they are readiest to let their case be known, with 
confidence it will not be divulged to the damage of their credit." 
During the Rebellion 1745-6, a party of Highlanders having 
visited Cumbernauld, were followed by a party of the King's dra- 
goons, who took up their quarters in the old castle or house of 
Cumbernauld, which, after the building of the present mansion, 
'731 1 had been converted into stables, &c. " sic transit gloria 
®undi,** and upon their departure set it on fire and burnt it to the 
pound. This happened a short time before the battle of Falkirk, 
between Prince Charles Stewart and General Halle v, 17th Janu- 
^Vf 1746. The fury of the dragoons seems to have evaporated 
^'ft the smoke and the flames of the old house, for the present 
niansion with its inmates they left unscathed. 

Bcdenastical History. — Originally Cumbernauld formed part of 

3 



144 DUiMBARTONSHlUE. 

the parish of Kirknitilloch, from which, by a decreet of the Lords 
of Erection and Plantation of Kirks, it was disjoined in 1649, and 
erected into a separate parish by the name of Easter Leinzie, or 
Lenyie, as Kirkintilloch was of Wester Lenyie, — a word derived, 
perhaps, from the ancient British Leveyn or Lleven, signifying 
smooth. An account of this parish before the disjunction will 
fall more properly under the Report of Kirkintilloch. 

An application to Parliament in 1621, for building a new church in 
the middle of the parish, having failed, a decreet of the Commis- 
sioners, as above noticed, in 1649, ordered the parish of Leinzie 
to be divided into two parishes, which was carried into effect short- 
ly afterwards. The communion tokens bear, " Erected 1656," 
with the words, " Urit nee Perit," over the burning bush. The 
settlement between the presbytery and the Earl of Wigton for 
manse and glebe was in 1658. Mr Thomas Stewart, the first mi* 
nister, was ejected in 1662 for nonconformity. He was succeeded 
by Mr Gilbert Muschett, with whose induction, 11th May 1666, 
the session record begins, " The session's book of Easter Leinzie 
beginning in the year of God one thousand three score and six. 

** At the Easter Kirk of Leinzie, the eleventh day of May 1666, 
The whilk day Mr Robert Bennet, minister of Kirkintilloch, maid 
sermon, and thereafter did institute Mr Gilbert Muschett to be 
minister of the said kirk, and did receive the oath de fideli," &c. 

With the exception of an anxiety often manifested by the mi- 
nister and elders about strangers coming into the parish without 
testimonials, nothing deserving notice occurs in the record till 5th 
November 1676, when the session appoint all persons who go out 
of the parish to get their children baptised at conventicles, to pay 
4 libs. Scots, and be cited to the Presbytery ; and several persons 
are mentioned as liable for this fine. 

From this time, the minister from the pulpit often forbids the 
people to attend conventicles, to reset rebels and fugitives : and 
on 9th September 1683, he strictly warns them to take notice " that 
none of the twelve persons declared fugitives be resett in none of 
their quarters, viz. James, John, and George Russell in Gaubet- 
hill," with nine others who are named. 

Subsequent to this, the parish church seems to have been all 
but deserted. Almost every Sabbath the minister complains of the 
people absenting themselves from the parish church, and going to 
the conventicles, and threatening the elders with deposition from 
their office ; but all was ineffectual, for the record often bears that 



CUMBERNAULD. 145 

only fifteen, tweoty, twelve, &c persons, and one, two, or no elders 
were present, and the reason assigned is *^ that ane great conven- 
ticle'' was held either within the parish or neighbourhood. 

It is noticeable, that, after the granting of the third indulgence, 
Mr Musehett, 14th August 1687, intimates from the pulpit, ^* that 
be was willing to give one of the dyets to Mr Robb, the Presby- 
terian minister, that the offering for the poor might be preserved, 
and for several other reasons mentioned by the minister ; and 
that he would write to Mr Robb thereanent betwixt and the 
next Sabbath, to see if he would accept of the said offer." 
This offer, it would seem, that Mr Robb did not think proper 
to accept; for on 25th September, same jear, ^* the whilk day the 
people are exhorted to be regular and orderly ; albeit Mr Robb is 
come so neeire as to keep ane meeting in the Newtoune." This 
exhortation, like the others, was disregarded : the former complaints 
are still made, ** That no elders were present in the church, no 
offerings were gathered, that no session was kept, and that 300 or 
S60 heads of &milies, besides women and children, were absent 
from the church." On 15th July 1688, the twelve persons for- 
merly mentioned are again denounced as fugitives ; and the said 
** day intimation was maid, that the meeting-house preacher is ane 
rebell, and not pardoned ; excommunicate and not relaxed ; and 
ane slanderer and leisingmaker, alienating the hearts of his Ma- 
jesties subjects, by not keeping the three late thanksgivings." 

Some persons belonging to the parish were suspected of being 
concerned in the rescue of Alexander Smith at Inchbelly Bridge, 
in June 1683, when a soldier was killed ; for in the record of date 
28th October 1688, " Intimation is maid not to harbour or resett 
John Russell of Cattcraig, who is forfeited ; John Bulloch, acces- 
sorie to the murder at Inchbellie Bridge, and James Brownlee and 
Thomas Smellie, his associates ; who are likewise suspected to 
have accession to the same murder ; and John Bulloch having up- 
braided the minister with ill-language, and carrying armes on Sa- 
turday last." 

On the same day, the minister warns the people not to hear Mr 
Michael Robb, the meeting-house preacher, in regard of his dis- 
loyaltie, in not praying for the Queen, Prince and Royal Family, 
and in regard of his preaching erroneous doctrine." 

In those unsettled times, the minister's person, house, and family, 
were assailed by some disorderly persons ; for December SOth, 
Sunday after Christmas day, intimation is given, " That, notwith* 

DUMBARTON. K 



146 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

'standing of his Majesties proclamation, several persons in this pa- 
rish have, upon Tuesday, 25th December, invaded and robbed my 
house, taken away my armes and books, some of these per- 
sons being under public scandals, at least, the ringleaders of them, 
and that, though they escape punishment from men, yet the Lord 
our God will not suffer them to escape his righteous judgment" 

The above excerpts from the session*records clearly shew that 
Mr Robb declined the friendly offer made him by Mr Muschett; 
but it id afterwards recorded that, of 30 persons who were excom- 
municated, the first on the list is Mr Michael Robb, the meet- 
ing-house preacher, and after the Revolution, the minister of 
this parish, the reasons of this sentence are noticeable. ** Ja- 
nuary Idth 1689. The first Sunday after the Epiphany, the 
said day, 30 persons that were grievous offenders, some of them 
being under the scandals of adulterie, and murder, and others of 
them being notour railers and scandalizers of ministers, and others 
guiltie of ane illegal convocation and licentious tumult, having in- 
vaded and robbed the minister's person and house, having taken 
away his armes and books, and others of them being rebels and 
fugitives, furnishers and resetters of rebels, and some of them ha- 
ving laid violent hands both upon the minister and his wife» all 
these were procest with the sentence of excommunication, and are 
pronounced to be persons disobedient to the voice of the church, 
and to be obstinate and incorrigible in going on in their sinful 
courses and practices, and are by the said sentence cast out of the 
church, and debarred from the society of the faithful in meetings, 
prayers, and all other sacred fellowship, as unworthy, with whom 
any good Christian should converse untill they be ashamed of their 
sins, and manifest their repentance, and humiliation, that they may 
be loosed from the said dreadful sentence, which they have deserv- 
ed by their gross scandals and offences." Then follow the names 
of Mr Michael Robb, William Neale, John Carmichael, Ellen 
Young, &c. 

On 27th January, the minister mentions the tumults in Glas- 
gow, and throughout the presbyteries of Glasgow, Hamilton, and 
Linlithgow, and intimates his resolution ^^ to make sermon in the 
church till the Government be settled, and so long as the keys of 
the church door are not taken from him," 

The session record ends February 3d 1689, the fourth Sun- 
day after Epiphany, *^ with the minister warning the people not to 
join with them who make tumults, in taking away the keys of kirk 



CUMBERNAULD. 147 

doors, or renting minister's gowns, lest they bring trouble upon 
themselves by such disorderly practises." — Although removed af- 
ter the Revolution, Mr Muschett seems to have remained within 
the parish^ — for so late as 1715, the record bears that several per- 
sons were cited to the session for being irregularly married by him, 
and censured for the same. 

As hv down as 172 1 , the meetings of session are dated at Easter 
Leinzie. The next entry in the record being the commencement 
of Mr Oughterson's incumbency, is dated Cumbernauld, 7th May 
1727, which is the name which the parish now bears. 

Parochial Registers. — The parish register for marriages and 
births begins 10th April 1688, and though much decayed seems to 
have been accurately kept till 1722. At this time, the parish seems 
to have been as populous as at present ; from 1688 to 1693, the 
average number of registrations of births being above 100; from 
W93 to 1700, about 90; from that to 1705, about 70. From 
this period the number gradually decreases, especially from the 
time of the Secession : for the five years ending with 1735, the 
average is 56; do. ending with 1750, about 43; do. ending with 
1765, about Sa 

The number of marriages about the end of the seventeenth 
century, averages about 23 only. From this time to 1722, there 
are frequent interruptions ; and downwards, are total blanks in the 
registers ; and in the same interrupted and irregular way, the record 
is continued to 1801. From this time, it has been carefully and 
pretty regularly kept, though the number of registrations does not 
give the exact number of births or baptisms, which is occasioned 
by the Secession ministers keeping a register for their own congre- 
gations. 

There is no registration of burials before 1817. Since this time, 
one has been kept with great accuracy. During the seven years 
ending 1831, the average of births was 67? ; deaths, 48? ; marri- 
ages, 24?. It is worthy of remark, that during the year ending 
31st December 1831, the deaths exceeded the births by one, the 
births being 73 and the burials 74. From the great mortality in 
1832, the same excess occurred. These, however, are rare oc- 
currences, for though the situation be high, and the climate moist, 
the parish is by no means unhealthy. Several individuals now liv- 
ing are considerably above eighty, two or three about ninety years, 
and some others died lately at this advanced period of life. 



148 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

III. — Population. 

'llic population in 1765 was 2903 

1791. IGOO 
1801, 1795 
1811, 2176 
1821, 2864 
1831, 3060 
In 1821, Cumbernauld village had a population of 950, which, in ten years, had 
increased 450 in 1831. 

Cumbernauld village, ... 1400 

Condorat do. - - - - 501 

Country, - - - - - 1179 

3080 

The number of families, 700, gave 4^ to a family, or 4} nearly. 
During the seven years ending with 31st December 1838, 

the average of marriages was d3l|- 

Births, . 79f 

Burials, .-.58^ 

The chief employment of the people is cotton weaving, there 
being above 560 weavers' looms in the parish, or nearly one-fifth 
of the whole population. Some time ago, weaver's work was hardly 
to be obtained. At present, work is plentiful, but the prices are 
small : upon an average, the weaver's weekly earnings will not ex- 
ceed 5s. or 6s. clear ; and considering the price of provisions, and 
how few are of provident habits, many must be suffering privations. 
Indeed, the fluctuating nature of the cotton trade, and the small 
remuneration, have induced many of the weavers to relinquish the 
loom, and have recourse for employment to the coal and ironstone 
mines* 

The above, with other causes, some of them of a political na- 
ture, have produced unquestionably very great changes in the 
moral character and habits of the people, — not for the better, it is 
much to be feared ; and has hindered them from prizing as they 
ought, and, therefore, from giving to their children, that education 
which once was the pride and the honour of the people of Scot- 
land. The natural effect of this is, that though few are unable 
to read, yet they are allowed to grow up in comparative ignorance 
of religion and its duties ; and hence may be dated the decline of 
morality, — disinclination to religion and to religious duties, — ne- 
glect and disregard of the Sabbath and of Sabbath institutions, — 
the increase of profanity and crime, and, of late years, the increas- 
ing magnitude of the criminal calendar. Notwithstanding of this, 
and though we have some turbulent spirits among us, — and it is 
to be regretted that this class seems upon the increase, — still the 
character of our population generally is quiet and orderly, in the 
midst of their many privations. 

The principal exception from this general character, consistent 



CUMBBRNAULD. 149 

with my knowledge, is that of a few deluded men in the village of 
Condorat, who, in the year I82O9 joined some disaffected charac- 
ters from Glasgow, and accompanied them, upon 6th April 1820, 
to Bonnymuir, about three miles west of Falkirk, where, engaging 
a party of the King's troops, they were defeated and taken pri- 
soners. One only was a native of the parish, and was executed 
at Stirling for high treason ; the others had their sentence com- 
muted to transportation. 

There are some poachers ; but since the change in the Excise 
laws, if there be any smuggling, it is inconsiderable. A change 
ID the game laws seefais in justice equally desirable. 

IV. — Industry. 
Bund Economy. — The parish comprehends 9145 acres, 3 roods, 

and 5 falls; of this number, 6168 acres, 2 roods, and 21 falls are 

arable; 2170 acres, 1 rood, and 12 falls pasture and moss; 556 

acres, 3 roods, and 12 falls plantations and woods ; and 250 acres 

roads and waters. 

It is divided between 40 and 50 proprietors. About 20 or 25 of 
them derive more than L. 50 from their respective properties. Se- 
veral of them have very considerable incomes. The Right Honour- 
able Lord Elphinstone is the only nobleman who possesses pro- 
perty, and the Honourable Admiral Fleming the only person of 
rank who has a mansion-house within the parish. 

The soil of the parish varies ; but generally rests upon a stiff 
retentive till, and when allowed to lie for a few ;years is again co- 
vered with rushes. During the last twenty years, much has been 
done in the way of general improvement, by plantations, draining, 
straighting, clearing of stones, weeds, &c. Tile-draining has late- 
ly been tried with advantage, and still a great deal requires to be 
done. 

The manner of farming generally may be stated to be the fol- 
lowing : 1. oats ; 2. oats ; 3. green crops, potatoes, or turnips ; 4. 
wheat, barley, or oats, with grass seeds ; 5. hay ; 6. pasture, for a 
less or greater number of years. 

Lime is sometimes laid on the sward. When prepared for fal- 
low or green crop, five or six chalders of lime, with fifty or sixty 
carts of dung, are allowed per acre. About the commencement of 
the before-mentioned period, few turnips were grown, but they are 
now common on every farm, and the breadth is yearly on the in- 
crease, while that under potatoes has likewise been greatly enlarged. 
This crop was very deficient last year, both in quantity and quality. 



160 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Mangel-wurzell has been tried, but not continued, as it is con- 
sidered not to be profitable. 

Admiral Fleming cultivates a number of the artificial grasses ; 
but the Fescue, iWothy, Holci, and meadow-grasses are suppos- 
ed best to suit the soil. 

Twenty years ago, very little wheat was sown here. Both cli« 
mate and soil were supposed unsuitable for this grain, but experi- 
ence has proved this to have been a fallacious opinion, for a very 
considerable breadth is now under wheat. This arises firom the 
different way of management ; before the introduction of fallow 
and green crops, the ground was neither worked, cleaned, nor 
manured. Still, the farmer labours under disadvantages which no 
system of cultivation can remove. The continued and heavy rains 
which prevail in the end of the year often prevent him from geir 
ting his wheat into the ground in sufficient time before the winter 
sets in. Many instances of this might easily be adduced, were it 
necessary. 

At one time flax was grown to a great extent, and when it yield- 
ed twenty or twenty-five stones or more per acre, and brought L 1, 
and sometimes even L. 1, 10s. per stone, it amply repaid outlay 
and labour ; but from some cause not well ascertained, of late 
years, the flax'crops have almost altogether failed, and, of course, 
the culture is comparatively given up. 

Wheat may average per acre from 8 to 9 bolls ; barley from 7 
to 8 bolls ; oats from 6 to 7 bolls ; and potatoes, county measure, 
from 30 to 40 bolls; rye-grass and clover from 160 to 200 stones 
iron per acre. A few meadows still remain, and when well ma^ 
naged and carefully irri^ted, when that can be done, will yield 
from 200 to 300 tron stones per acre, and an excellent fodder for 
cattle in winter. 

Live-Stock. — The breed of horses, as well as of cows, has been 
greatly improved of late years, and prizes for both were awarded 
at the show of stock of the Highland Society last autumn at Glas- 
gow. Indeed, the dairy stock of some of our farmers, for figure 
and produce, equal any in the country. The milk, generally, is 
made into butter, and sold in the Glasgow or Falkirk markets. 
Little or no cheese is made here. The produce of a good cow 
averages L. 9 to L. 10 per annum. The grass of a milk cow costs 
about L.3, 1 5s.; of a yeld about L. 2, 15s.; of a two-year old 
quey about L. 1, 10s. to L. 2; of a one-year old quey about L. 1 
or L. 1, 5s. It may be sometimes more or less, according to the 

4 



CUMBERNAULD. 151 

paslure. The keep of a milch cow may be estimated at L. 7 or 
Lb 7, 10s. per amium. 

Leases have generally been for nineteen years, but, of late, they 
have been shortened, in some instances, to thirteen and fifteen. 
But this is supposed to be too short a term for the tenant to bene- 
fit by his lease, and this, more especially, when the farm is let at 
the highest ofifer, which is generally the case. 

Tlie fiums are generally inclosed with fences of stone or thorn, 
and partly with both. The farm-steadings generally are in good 
condition ;— 4ho8e upon the estates of Lord Elphinstone and Ad- 
miral Fleming having been lately built or repaired, and in some 
eaaes much enlarged. The parish is well provided with roads, 
through the influence of Admiral Fleming. The length of turnpike 
roads within the parish will be little, if at all, short of twenty miles. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Means of Communication^ Sfc. — Roads are a most important 

branch of rural economy, and from the roads in this parish, the 
farmer possesses every facility in bringing lime or manure, and in 
conveying to market the produce of his lands. At present, there 
is no railroad ; but the projected Edinburgh and Glasgow railroad 
passes through the whole length of the parish, nearly parallel with 
the Forth and Clyde Canal, and very nearly in the line of Agri- 
cola's Wall. Cumbernauld was erected into a burgh of barony in 
1649. It had a weekly market, which has fallen into disuse. It 
has two &irs annually. Sometimes a considerable business in cattle 
is done at the May fair. At the August fair, no business is done. 
There is a horse race, — which is advantageous only to the publi- 
cans ; and is little better than a nuisance. 

Falkirk, distant nine, and Glasgow thirteen miles, are the nearest 
market-towns. Cumbernauld is a daily penny-post upon Glasgow on 
the west, and Denny on the east. The mail-coach by Crieff, and 
a coach by Auchterarder to Perth, a coach to Edinburgh by Lin- 
lithgow, a coach to Alloa by Falkirk, two coaches to Stirling, pass 
daily through this parish to and from Glasgow. Sometimes, there 
are more than these. In summer a coach usually passes for Cal- 
lander and the Trosachs daily. 

Boats with passengers for Falkirk, Edinburgh, &c at present 
ply east and west four times a-day ; in summer, more frequently. 
In connection with the passage-boats, coaches carry passengers 
from Wyndford Loch to Stirling, and Perth, and Alloa, &c. and 



152 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

from No. 16 to Kirkaldy by Dunfermline. Luggage boats also 
regularly ply upon the canal with goods. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, situated at the village 
of Cumbernauld, is nearly in the centre of the parish. Five or 
six families only are four miles from the parish church, which 
is an old &bric. It was repaired in 1810, notwithstanding the ur- 
gent solicitations of the incumbent and session, as appears from 
the session record, 25th March 1810, the church being altogether 
insufficient to accommodate the inhabitants. To obviate this as 
far as the old walls would admit, both pews and passages are very 
narrow and inconvenient It has been repeatedly repaired since ; 
but the dampness of the site, six doors, and the incommodiousness 
of the seats, make the church uncomfortable, cold, and unhealthy. 
The church has about 660 sittings. The communion seats alone 
are free. The number of communicants is about 500. The ba- 
rony of Castlecary, with a population of seventeen families, by a 
decreet of Court in 1725, or thereabout, was disjoined from the 
parish of Falkirk, and annexed to Cumbernauld quoad sacra. Ac- 
cording to report, the minister of Falkirk was taken bound to preach 
in Cumbernauld three days each year. The present church is 
quite insufficient for the population ; but, from its central situa- 
tion, a church of proper dimensions would well accommodate the 
whole parish for enjoying religious ordinances. 

The manse was built in 1827. The original glebe, by agree- 
ment between the presbytery and the Earl of Wigton, was for 8 
acres. In consequence of the turnpike-road passing through it, 
an excambion was made, the minister getting some marshy land 
in lieu of that cut off by the road. At present, including site of 
manse, offices, garden, roads, &c. the glebe may be about 11 
acres, but not all arable. 

In 1820, the Court, by decreet, modified the stipend to 16^ chal- 
ders, half meal, half barley, with L. 10 for communion elements. 

So early as 1743, a house belonging to the Original Burgher 
Associate Synod, was built in the village of Cumbernauld. It was 
rebuilt in 1725, is a commodious place of worship, with a respec- 
table congregation : and the minister has a salary of, I believe, 
L. 100. 

Another meeting-house in the village formerly belonging to the 
Antiburgher, but now connected with the United Secession body, 
was built about seventy or eighty years ago. This congregation is? 
not numerous. The minister's salary is, I believe, L. 80. Both 



CUMBERNAULD. 153 

the ministers have dwelling-houses, and both congr^ations are 
made up from all the surrounding parishes. 

Of the 700 families composing the population of the parish, 
about 180 belong to the Secession, and there are 5 or 6 Irish fit- 
milies, supposed to be of the Roman Catholic faith. In these 700 
fiiinilifls, the annexation is not included. 

Edueatwn. — The parish school is situated in the village of 
Cumbernauld, and is attended generally by from 80 to 90 scholars. 
The salary is the minimum. The dwelling-house has two rooms 
and kitchen. The garden falls short of the legal quantity by six 
falls, for which the heritors allow Is. per fall, or 6s. 

The school in the village of Condorat, two and a-half miles west 
of the church, is attended by from 60[to 70 scholars. Here, there 
is a very good school-house, and a dwelling-house for the master 
of two rooms and closet, built three or four years ago by public 
subscription. Another school at Garbethill, three miles east from 
the church, has about 20 scholars. Each of the teachers of these 
two schools has an allowance from the heritors, during pleasure, 
of a sum of about L. 4, 8s. annually, which small sum has been 
sometimes withheld. Another school in the village of Cumber- 
nauld is upon the teacher's own adventure. The fees are the same 
as in the other schools. 

Few persons between six and fifteen years of age are unable to 
read the Bible, and the numbers of those above that age still few- 
er, though, from the change in their circumstances, occasioned by 
the decline in the cotton trade, there is neither the anxiety nor 
the ability for giving children the education which was evinced by 
parents some years ago, when they were in easier circumstances. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of poor up- 
on the roll is about 25. The average weekly allowance is about 
Is. S^d. with occasional relief both to those who are upon the roll, 
and to others who are not upon it For meeting this expenditure, 
there are the weekly collections at the church door, averaging 
about L. 50 per annum ; the letting out of mortcloths, about 
L. 7 per annum ; and proclamation fees, with occasional donations 
from non-residing heritors. There never has been a legal assess- 
ment. Voluntary contributions and extraordinary collections have 
hitherto been the means resorted to for meeting any deficiencies. 
But as legal assessments seem desirable to some influential heri- 
tors, it is probable they may ere long be had recourse to in pre- 
ference to the old way of raising funds for supporting the poor. 



154 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

From donations and savings, when money was more plentiful 
with the operatives, and fewer demands made upon the funds, a 
sum of L. 160 or L. 170 had been realized : but it was all expended 
some years ago ; and the only sum as a fund for the poor is L. 90 
bequeathed by the late Right Honourable George Viscount Keith, 
the interest whereof he required should be distributed to the poor 
annually upon the first day of January. 

The dislike to being on the poor's roll is certainly not so strong 
as it once was, and seems daily growing weaker. Whether this be 
occasioned by the influx of strangers, who generally show no unwil- 
lingness to claim from the parish funds, or whether, by the heritors 
taking the management of the funds, producing a belief of there being 
a legal right to parochial relief; whether from these or whatever causes 
it may spring, there is unquestionably not that feeling of shame at 
being on the session, as it was termed, which was wont to be when 
their weekly pittance was doled out to them by the elders of their 
respective quarters. The Dissenting congregations contribute no- 
thing to the poor's funds. Their poor are supplied out of the pa- 
rish funds. Those who assert, therefore, that the Seceders sup- 
ply their own poor, cannot refer to this parish. 

Library, — A subscription library was instituted a few years ago 
in the village of Cumbernauld, now consisting of from 1000 to 1200 
volumes, and, in general, the books have been very well selected ; 
— owing, it is supposed, to the causes formerly mentioned, the an- 
nual subscriptions have rather decreased. 

Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established in 1815. The 
annual deposits are from L. 150 to L. 160, and the sums with- 
drawn nearly the same. It does not seem to have been sufficient- 
ly appreciated by those for whose benefit savings banks were in- 
stituted ; for, with the exception of a few servants, chiefly females, 
the deposits have been made by the directors, by societies, or by 
those farmers and tradesmen who are in easy circumstances. 

Societies. — A Society of Weavers, and another of Masons, were 
in^tuted about thirty or forty years ago ; but, having been esta- 
blished on erroneous principles, they have been declining for some 
time. 

jipril 1839. 



PARISH OF LUSS. 

FRBBBYTERT OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. ROBEBT CARR, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — This parish has its name from the Gaelic Lus^ signi- 
fying a plant or herb. Luss is the name of a small river^ and the 
valley or glen through which it flows. As the church is situated 
at ther influx of this river into Lochlomond, the name was extend- 
ed to the parish. It was anciently written Lus^ and is the same 
with the name of Luce in Galloway. 

Extent, ^c. — The parish of Luss extends in length from south 
to north about 8^ miles. Its greatest breadth is 5, and its least 
3^ miles from east to west Its extent in square miles may be 
about 33. It is bounded on the east, by Lochlomond ; on the 
south and south-west, by the parishes of Bonhill and Row ; on the 
west, by Row and Lochlong ; and on the north, by Arrochar pa- 
rish. If we include the lands of Bannachra, which formerly be- 
longed to Row, but are now understood to belong to Luss quoad 
sacra, it is also conterminous with Cardross on the south. The 
eastern boundary is an irregular line running north and south to- 
wards the middle of Lochlomond. The southern boundary leaves 
the bank of that lake about three-quarters of a mile south from 
the influx of the Froon, and proceeding westward becomes coin- 
cident with the course of that stream, which separates it from Row. 
Then the Laran forms the limit from Inverlaran, where it enters 
the Froon, to the summit of Shannan Hill, where it has its source. 
It then runs irregularly along the ridge which overlooks the Froon 
on the north, and after leaving within Row, Stron of Glenfroon, 
Finnart Hill, and Stronmalenoch, it again takes a westerly direc- 
tion, and reaches the shore of Lochlong to the north of Gortan. 
From Lochlong to Lochlomond, it is conterminous with Arrochar. 
The outline on the south and west is thus extremely irregular. 

Topographical Appearances^ 8fc. — By far the greatest part of the 
surface of this parish is mountainous, some of its mountains rising 



156 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

to near 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The principal are, 
Ben Cornachantian, Corafuar, Craiginlenue, Aich, DhU| &c« 
These are intersected everywhere by glens wildly picturesque. As 
we advance from the south-eastern boundary of the parish north- 
ward, the Froon, already referred to, first crosses our way. Glen- 
froon, well known in Scottish story as the scene of a bloody con- 
flict, fought in 1603^ between the clans of Colquhoun and Mac- 
Gregor, is but partly situated within Luss. The Proon flows in- 
to Lochlomond, nearly opposite the southern end of Inch Murren, 
the most considerable and the southmost of its islands. Parallel 
to Glenfroon, on the north, and separated from it by a mountain 
range, already referred to, is Glenfinlass. The sources of the Luss 
and Finlass are not far from the upper extremity of this valley. The 
Luss diverges from it by taking a direction rather to the north of 
east. The streams of Finlass and Luss are about three miles apart 
at their termination in Lochlomond. Lastly, at the northern boun- 
dary is Glen-du-glass. At Inveruglas, or the mouth of the Duglas, 
is the ferry of Ruardinnan directly opposite, at the foot of Benlo- 
mond. All these valleys intersect the mountains in an easterly 
direction, and discharge their respective streamlets into Lochlo- 
mond. 

The flat land, which is by far the smaller portion, lies in the 
south-east. It extends along the lake from the southern boundary 
to Ross-dhu, the seat of Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. A consi- 
derable part of this land is almost perfectly level, another part, 
gently undulating; the rest slopes with a more or less gentle ac- 
clivity, till it is lost in the bold, abrupt, or rugged ascent of the 
mountains. 

From the village of Luss southwards, the lake near the bank is 
in general neither rocky nor very deep. Northward towards In- 
veruglas, it is much deeper, and the bank in many places is rocky. 
To the north of the village, the mountain rises with steep ascent 
from the very bank of the lake. The lake in general has a muddy 
bottom. From the southern boundary are a succession of head- 
lands, called Rosses^ along the flat district, projecting a small way 
into the lake. They are Nether Ross, Middle Ross, Ross-finlass, 
Ross-dhu and Ross Arden. 

Islands, — The islands of Lochlomond included in the parish of 
Luss are, Inchlonaig, Inch-tavanach, Inchconachan, Inchmoan, 
Inch Galbraith, Inchfriechlan, and a few other very small islets. 
Inchlonaig, now occupied as Sir James Colquhoun's deer-park, is 



LVM. 157 

remarkable for the fpreat number of very old yews which are fiprow- 
ing in it It contains about 150 deer. It is inhabited by one fa- 
mily, who board persons that have been addicted to drinking. Inch- 
tavanach, or Monk's Island, about three-quarters of a mile long, 
lies not very distant from the west margin of the loch, between 
Ross-dhu and the village of Luss. It is steep and mostly covered 
with copse-wood. It is inhabited by one family, who fahn part of 
it, and admit as boarders persons given to intoxication. The sum- 
mit of the island is called Tom-na-clag, the Bell Height or Crestf 
because, according to tradition, the bell w^s here elevated, which 
the holy occupants of this island employed in summoning to 
prayers the inhabitants of the two parishes of Luss and Inchcail- 
liacfa. Inchconachan or Colquhoun's Island lies beyond Inchta- 
vanach, and parallel to it on the north-east. It is not inhabited. 
Inchmoan or Moss Island is but little elevated above the surface 
of the lake. It lies to the south-east and south of the two last, 
and is of considerable extent. It supplies the villagers with peat 
for fuel, and is of little importance in other respects. Near this, 
on the south, b Inch Gaibraith, occupied only by a few trees, and 
the ruins of an ancient castle, once the residence of a family, from 
whom it has received its name. Inchfriechlan, shcygy (that is, 
fern) Island^ is a rock opposite the village of Luss. The other 
islets included in this parish are of no note whatever. 

Lakes. — From what has been already said of the rivulets of Luss, 
it might be inferred that there is no deficiency of springs. Those 
proc^ding from rocks generally of clay slate furnish, for the most 
part, limpid and pure water. There is no lake in this parish or 
adjoining to it except Loch Lomond, anciently called Lyncaledur 
(i. e» the lake of the woody water) in one of the Roman itineraries; 
— and this is the earliest mention of it. It did not receive its pre- 
sent name till the fourteenth century, when it was thus named from 
Ben Lomond. Lummon signifies a beacon in the British language, 
and occurs elsewhere in Scotland, as well as in Wales. Its pre- 
vious name was the lake of Leven, so called from the smoothness 
of its waters. This lake being twenty-four miles long, extends 
along the east of this parish for about a third of its whole length. 
Its greatest breadth, which is nearly opposite Ross-dhu, is almost 
eight miles. From Luss parish northward, Arrochar extends round 
the one end of it, and Bonhill southwards round the other. Along 
the eastern bank, lies Buchanan from the boundary of Arrochar 
till it meets Kilmaronock at the influx of the Endrick, — which last 



158 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

parish is again conterminous with Bonhil). The waters of this 
lake are particularly soft and wholesome, and are used for culi- 
nary purposes. The upper and narrower part of the lake is by 
far the deeper, and never freezes. South from Luss, it seldom ex- 
ceeds 20 fiithoms. This part freezes over only in long and severe 
frosts. In the beginning of 1838, the lake was traversed to and 
from Inchmurren on the ice, by horses and wheel carriages to either 
bank. The greatest depth of this lake is about 100 fathoms, and 
its average height above the sea level is 22 feet. After great 
floods in winter, it has been known to rise about 6 feet higher than 
after great droughts in summer. It is much higher now than once 
it was. Stepping-stones across the channel of the Falloch, at the 
north end of the lake, are now several feet under its surface after 
the greatest drought. Cambden describes an island as in his day 
existing in Camstraddan bay, with a house and orchard. Now on- 
ly a heap of stones is to be seen when the water is low, said to 
mark the site of the ancient family residence of Colquhoun of 
Camstraddan. This lake, for beautiful and picturesque scenery, 
is not surpassed by any in Britain. Its beauties have long been 
so well known that they need not be particularly described. They 
may be surveyed with great advantage from the summit of Inch- 
tavanach and Inchmurren, Strone hill near Luss, and the northern 
summit of Benbui. From the last the prospect is beautiful, va- 
ried, and extensive. To the north and north-east, stretches Loch- 
lomond with its islands, and beyond it Benlomond, the hills of 
Buchanan and Strath Endrick ; to the south-east, part of the vale 
of the Leven is seen and Dumbarton rock ; to the south and west, 
the Frith of Clyde, with Greenock, Helensburgh, Rosneath, Du- 
noon, and the Argyleshire mountains ; to north- west, the vale of the 
Froon throughout its whole length. 

Lochlong, which bounds this parish for a short distance on the 
west, is a deep extensive arm of the sea, stretching from the Frith 
of Clyde northward between the counties of Dumbarton and Ar- 
gyle. Luss can derive but little advantage, however, from its con- 
tiguity to Lochlong, as it is fenced on that side by a barrier of 
lofty and rugged mountains. 

Geology. — The rocks of the flat south-easterly district are of 
the conglomerate or red sandstone formation. Clay-slate and the 
kindred varieties occupy the mountainous district. The line of 
separation of these two formations may be well traced in the beds 
of the rivers and mountain torrents. From near the pass of Bal- 



LUSS. 159 

maba, in Buchanan, it proceeds in a south-westerly direction. It 
crosses the Froon near the junction of the Laran with it, and pas- 
ung above Ardincaple Castle, runs between Cairndow and Dun- 
more points, and in Rosneath over the hollow behind Campsail 
Bay. The dip of the strata is in general towards the south-east 
The rocks of the clay-slate formation are often traversed by veins 
of quartz ; crystals of cubical iron pyrites are also met with, as well 
as quartz abundantly disseminated in masses, throughout the same 
class of rocks. Roofing-slates of good quality are obtained in 
Camstraddan and at Luss. There are documents to prove the 
existence of the former quarry, more than four hundred years ago. 
A freestone quarry is also occasionally worked. The alluvial 
land generally consists of sand or gravel, or of peat-moss. There 
is good loam in some parts. The peat-moss, which is ei^tensive, 
everywhere contains the remains of ancient wood. Birch and oak 
are the predominating species. Some brazen points of spears and 
antique iron helmets were found in the alluvion, near the Froon, 
at Dumfin. They came into the possession of Sir James Col- 
quhoun about two years ago. 

Botany. — The more remarkable plants are, Isoetes lacustris ; 
Sulndaria aquatica ; Aliama ranunculoides ; Vacdnium oxycoccoi ; 
Rubus chamcemorus ; Lysimackia thyrsiflora ; Agrimonia Evpa^ 
toria ; Osmunda regalis ; CoUema Burgesii^ &c. The natural 
woods of this parish consist of oak, ash, yew, holly, rowan, birch, 
hazel, aspen, alder, crab, bird-cherry, wild-cherry, hawthorn and 
willows. The oak thrives only in dry ground ; ashes abound near 
brooks, and by the bank of the lake. The yew is rarely met with 
except in the islands. The rowan often grows in elevated situa- 
tions, and hollies are scattered through the woods. There are 
from 800 to 900 acres under natural wood, and now a great deal 
under plantation. The other indigenous plants are nearly the 
same as in other parts of the Highlands, in similar soils and situa- 
tions. 

II. — Civil History. 
This parish was formerly of great extent, including the modern 

parish of Arrochar on the north, and the lands of Auchindennan, 
Cameron, Stuckrogert, and Tullichewen, on the south ; and the 
lands of Buchanan on the opposite side of the lake. Buchanan 
was dbjoined in 1621, and Arrochar in 1658. The rest were an- 
nexed to Bonhill about 1650. But the lands of Caldanach, 



160 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Prestelloch, and Conglens, once belonging to the parish of Inch- 
caiUiach, are now annexed to the parish of Luss. 

There are few events which have been deemed worthy of record 
connected with the early history of this parish. When Haco of Nor- 
way invaded Scotland in the year 1263» part of his fleet sailed up 
Loch Long to Arrochar. The Norwegians having landed here, 
hauled their boats across the isthmus, embarked on Loch Lomond 
at Tarbet, sailed down the lake, slaughtered and plundered the inha- 
bitants of Luss and the islands, which were then very populous, and 
were moreover crowded with people who had fled thither for security 
from all parts of the country. About the beginning of the twelfth 
century, Alwyn, the second Earl of Lennox, had granted a charter 
conferring the lands of Luss on Malduin, Dean of Lennox. His 
posterity, who were styled de Lussy possessed the estate, till the 
fourteenth century, when it passed to Colquhoun of Colquhoun 
by his having married the sole heiress. The principal part of the 
parish continued to be possessed by the direct descendants of these 
individuals in the male line, till about the beginning of the last 
century, when it again passed by marriage of the sole heiress to 
Grant of Grant, the ancestor of the present Sir James Colqu- 
houn. Robert, a younger brother of Sir Humphrey Colquhoun, 
obtained a charter in 1695 of the lands of Camstraddan and 
Achingahan, and became the ancestor of the family of Camstrad- 
dan. The present Sir James Colquhoun's father purchased the 
estate of Camstraddan from the hereditary proprietor, and re-an- 
nexed it to the estate of Luss, and thus became proprietor of the 
whole parish, except the quoad sacra annexation of Bannachara. 

Eminent Characters. — Sir John Colquhoun, grandson of that 
Sir John who was slain in Inchmurren by the islanders in 1440, 
deserves to be mentioned here. He was in 1474 made Lord 
High Chamberlain of Scotland^ and Ambassador Extraordinary to 
the court of England. In 1477, he was made Governor of Dum- 
barton Castle, for life. Having acquitted himself in every station 
with fidelity and honour, he was killed by a cannon-ball at the 
siege of that fortress, on the 1st of May 1478. 

Mr John M'Laurin, a very distinguished divine, brother to 
ther celebrated mathematician of that name, was minister of Luss 
early in the last century, from which he was translated to Glas- 
gow. 

The late minister, Dr John Stuart, was equally esteemed for 
his excellent character, and his rare attainments in literature and 

3 



LUSS. 161 

science. His labours in perfecting the Gaelic translation of the 
Scriptures, will embalm his memory in the hearts of the natives of 
the Highlands* 

ParochuU Registers. — The registers of baptisms and marriages 
fipom 1698 till 1735 have been very irregularly kept From the last 
date till 1780, more care has been manifested. Since then, up to 
the present, they have been well kept, but are not voluminous. 

Antiquities. — About a mile and a quarter south from Luss, there 
was a cairuy called Cam-ma'cheasoff^ from St Mackessog, a native 
of Lennox, who was a bishop and confessor, and suffered martyrdom 
at this place about a, d. 520. The church of Luss, in which he 
was buried, was dedicated to him, and he was long regarded as the 
tutelar saint of this parish. He was commemorated on the 10th of 
March. In the church-yard, there were discovered some stone coffins 
of considerable antiquity, but without any inscription. Each of them 
consisted of an entire stone, with a cavity cut out of it fit for hold- 
ing a dead body at its full length, and a stone lid for covering it.* 
At Dumfin, on the northern bank of the Froon, around the summit 
of a round hill, are traces of an ancient fortification. Tradition 
points to it as a residence and stronghold of Fingal, King of Mor- 
ven. The name Dumfin is compounded of Dun and Firiy and 
denotes the fort of Fin or FingaU T^ traditions of this coun- 
try represent Fian M^Coul or Fingal and his associates as giants, 
of whom the most extravagant feats are related. For example, an 
enormously large stone or mass of rock is pointed out, which it is 
said, Fingal, standing on the top of Benbui, took upon his little 
finger to throw to the top of Shantran Hill, a distance of several 
miles, but that not being rightly balanced, it fell into a small brook 
mid-way between the two. 

Modem Buildings. — Ross-dhu House is the only mansion de- 
serving notice. It was built by the great-grandfather of the pre- 
sent proprietor, about sixty-five years ago. It is beautifully situated 
OD the promontory of that name. A part of the walls of the more 
ancient edifice, as well as a roofless chapel still used as the family 
cemetery of the Lairds of Luss, situated hard by, add variety to the 
appearance of this beautiful spot. 

At Little Dumfin, there is a mill for grinding corn ; another in 
which wood is sawed and charcoal ground ; a third for cutting log- 
wood for the dye-works on the river Leven. The stream of the 

* There is a statue of St Mackessog, which formerly stood at Bandry, but is now 
in the &mily burying-ground of Sir James Colquboun, at Uoss-dhu. 

DUMBARTON. L 



1^2 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Froon is the power employed in driving the machinery of these 
mills. There is also a meal-mill and a saw-mill on the river Luss 
near to the village. 

III. — Population. 
There do not appear to be any sources whence the population 

of this parish in ancient times can be accurately estimated. It is 

recorded that << seven score" were killed at the battle of Glenfroon 

on the side of the men of Luss ; but we know not how many of 

these were allies from other districts. From returns made in the 

year 1755, the population appears then to have been 978. In 

1793 it was 917. A diminution took place when many small farms 

were united. It has since undergone a slight increase. In 1821, 

there were 553 males and 597 females, 1150 in all. In 1831, 

the whole population was 1181. This increase may be owing to 

increased activity in the improvement of land, as well as to the 

employment of more hands in other works carried on within the 

parish. 

Number of persons residiog in the village of Luss, . 250 

in the country, . 931 

The STerage number of births for the last seven years, 23 

of marriages^ ... 7 

Number of fiimilies of independent fortune residing in the parish, 1 
Fatuous, . . . • . .2 

Blind, • . . . .4 

Deaf and dumb, all belonging to one fiunily, • . 6 

Illegitimate births during the last three years, 4. 
Language J Sfc. of the People, — The language now universally spoken 
by the natives of the parish is the English language, or rather 
the provincial Scotch dialect* About a century ago, Gaelic seems 
to have been as commonly spoken as English. Although it is still 
spoken by some old people, the rising generation seem to grow up 
without any knowledge of the language. For many years, it has 
ceased to be used in the service of the church. A good many Gae- 
lic terms are still retained in common speech, which are unknown 
in parts remote from the Highlands, where the Scotch dialect is 
spoken. 

The peasantry in general are in much better circumstances, in 
respect to dwellings, food, and dress, than they were at the middle 
of the last century. But although there are many commodious and 
comfortable dwellings, yet there is still much room for improve- 
ment in this particular among the people generally. There is 
also a more plentiful supply of food than formerly. The extend- 
ed culture of potatoes, as well as the increased productiveness of 



I.uss. 163 

the soil generally, occasioned by the agricultural improvements, 
which have to some extent found their way hither also, render a 
scarcity of provisions a rarer occurrence now than in former times. 
They are generally a contented people ;.yet it is believed, that a 
somewhat more general diffusion of capital would tend not only to 
increase their comfort and improve their condition, but to pro- 
mote the improvement and productiveness of the land. They are 
remarkably kind and hospitable, and as there has been less shift- 
ing of population here than elsewhere, they continue much at^ 
tached to their native soil, in which generally their forefathers 
have dwelt from time immemorial. They retain much of the 
manners, customs, virtues, and prejudices of the olden times. 
The great body of them are regular in attending on religious or- 
dinances. Since the reduction of the duty on distilled spirits, il- 
licit distillation has almost ceased to exist Poaching is also in a 
great measure kept down. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — Several hundred acres of the best arable land in 

the parish, being adjacent to the family residence of the proprie- 
tor. Sir James Colquhoun, have been laid out as pleasure-ground, 
and are either occupied with plantation, or used for pasture. As 
there has been no actual survey taken of the land for a long time, 
and from reluctance on the part of the parties who can give in- 
formation, it would be next to impossible to ascertain the number 
of acres and the actual produce of the land, whether in cultivation 
or not. There can be no doubt that, by a judicious application of 
capital, a large portion of the marshy and mossy land in the flat 
district might become productive, and yield an ample return. 

Rent. — The average rent of good arable land per acre may be 
stated at L. 2, the average rate of grazing per ox or cow, grazed at 
L. 2, lOs., and for each full-grown sheep for the year, supposed 
to be about 3s. 6d. on the hill pasture. 

fVaffesj 8fc. — The ordinary labour of cultivation is generally per- 
formed by the farmer's own family and servants, who live at his house, 
and are hired half-yearly. The average hire of a full-grown man is 
L. 7, and of a woman, L. 3, 10s. per half year. Persons hired for 
harvest-labour receive, men, 2s. and women. Is. 6d. per day, with 
victuals. Occasional labourers receive 2s. per day. The price of 
the various kinds of produce is regulated by the state of the 
Greenock and Glasgow markets. The expense of carriage ren- 
ders coals very dear, as this commodity must be conveyed from 



164 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Glasgow or Ayr ; cpnsequeutly, peat is much used as fuel. 
Agricultural produce finds a ready market in the villages on the 
Leven, in Helensburgh, especially during the summer, or in 
Greenock. 

Tailors are often hired by the day, and receive from Is. 8d. to 
2s. besides victuals. A pair of strong shoes for a labouring man 
costs 9s. to 10s. for a woman, 7s. to 8s. The shoeing of a horse 
costs 3s. 8d. The price of a cart is L. 10, 10s. The wages of a 
journeyman shoemaker per day, are 2s. 6d. ; of a smith, 8s. ; of 
a Wright, 3s. A good deal of the work required in all these spe- 
cies of handicraft is done by persons in Helensburgh. 

Live Stock. — The prevailing breeds of sheep are, the south of 
Scotland black-faced sheep on the hill pasture, and occasionally 
the Cheviot breed on the low grounds. The Highland breed of 
cattle is grazed on the hilly pastures. The milch cows on the low 
grounds are generally of the cross breed between Highland and 
Ayrshire, and on the best of the lands, pure Ayrshire. 

AgricuUwral Society. — An agricultural society has been esta- 
blished for several years among the tenantry on Sir James Col- 
quhoun's estates, and prizes have been distributed annually to 
encourage improvements in the breeding of cattle, as well as in 
the cultivation of land. A considerable degree of emulation has 
thus been excited among all descriptions of farmers. Towards 
farther improvement, draining of land is much wanted in many 
places. There has been no embanking nor artificial irrigation ; 
but a good many acres, which are laid under the waters of the 
lake in winter, are under crops of grain in summer. 

For many years, a large proportion of the tenants have had no writ- 
ten leases, and this must have operated to some extent as a check to 
improvement. But as they were never removed except from strong 
reasons, their circumstances were by no means so unfavourable as 
might be otherwise supposed. Although there are several com- 
modious farm-buildings, yet generally they are not such as were 
to be desired, and such as, considering the facility of procuring 
materials, might have been expected. 

Quarries, — The freestone quarry is worked only for buildings 
within the parish. The slates from Luss and Camstraddan quarries 
are not only conveyed by the lake to the various parishes surround- 
ing it, but down the Leven to Dumbarton, Glasgow, Paisley, Port- 
Glasgow, and Greenock. To Helensburgh, Row, and the shores 
of the Gareloch, they are conveyed by land. There are about 

3 



LUSS. 165 

fifty men employed io working them at present. They bring out 

many thousands annually. There are two varieties of them, the 

one light or grayish blue, the other dark blue. The last named 

bring the highest price in the market. 

v.— Parochial Econoiiy. 
The nearest market-town is Helensburgh. - It is nine miles from 

the village of Luss, but is not three from the south-west extre- 
mity of the parish at Inverlaran. Although this rising town is en- 
titled to the privilege of a weekly market every Thursday, it is on- 
ly in summer that a regular demand for articles of country pro- 
duce is kept up. But from this town to Greenock, there is only 
an additional distance of about four miles across the Clyde, which 
is readily passed at all seasons in the steam-boats. 

Means of Commttnication. — The turnpike roads to Helensburgh 
and Dumbarton are excellent. The post road from Dumbarton 
along Loch Lomond to the Highlands, extends throughout the whole 
length of this parish. The road which branches from the one at Red 
House at the south end of the parish, and extends up through Glen- 
firoon, is within this parish for three miles, and the branch lead- 
ing off to Helensburgh, for two and a-half. Again the road from 
Dumbarton to Arrochar by Helensburgh and Loch Long, passes 
along the narrow slip which extends to this arm of the sea. Alto- 
gether, there must be an extent of about fourteen miles of turn- 
pike roads within the parish. The post-office is at the village of 
Luss, and there is a delivery of letters from Dumbarton and In- 
verary daily. 

There are three bridges over the Froon, one for each of the 
roads above specified ; and one over each of the rivers Finlas, 
Luss, and Douglas. Those on the main or Dumbarton road 
are very sufficient ; the two on the Helensburgh and Glen- 
froon branches are of an old construction, and rather narrow. The 
fences are generally either hedges or stone dikes ; but the arable 
land cannot be considered as on the whole well enclosed. An ex- 
cellent wall, built of stone and lime, extends for about three 
miles, along the east side of Dumbarton road, as a fence to the 
Ross-dhu pleasure grounds. It is built of freestone, and is finish- 
ed with a cope of the same. The only direct water-carriage is by 
Loch Lomond. This lake renders the different districts around its 
extended margin easily accessible by boats of different descriptions ; 
but although the river Leven is also navigable, it is only by very 
small vessels ; so that communication this way is limited to the 



166 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

towns along the banks of the Clyde. Various plans have been 
suggested, at different times, for supplying this defect The deep- 
ening of the Leven, so as to reduce the surface of the lake to the 
level of the sea or nearly so, is one of these. However feasible 
this may have been eighty years ago, the vested rights of the pro- 
prietors of the public works on the Leven have long since caused 
all idea of it to be abandoned. Another plan suggested is to lead 
a canal along the vale of the Leven, from Loch Lomond to the 
Clyde. A third plan is to cut a canal across the isthmus from 
the head of Loch Long to Tarbet. It is feared that no plan such 
as these will be carried into effect, till the proprietors of the ex- 
tensive estates, surrounding the lake, combine for the common in- 
terest, with greater zeal and harmony than they have hitherto ma- 
nifested. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church Is rather conveniently situated 
for the parish than otherwise. It is rather distant, indeed, from the 
southern district, in which the greatest part of the country population 
is concentrated ; but, on the other hand, the most distant and least 
accessible part is the opposite or north-west quarter. The church 
of Arrochar is of much easier access than that of Luss to some of 
the families who are located there. The greatest distance which 
any parishioner has to travel in coming to church is eight miles. 
The distance from Inverlaran to the south-west extremity of the 
parish, is seven miles. The church was built in 1771, and is still 
in a good state of repair ; it affords accommodation for 500 per- 
sons. The seats are all appropriated, and are paid for at the rate 
of Is. per sitting, which goes to the parish fund. The manse was 
built about forty-four years ago, and is at present in need of re- 
pairs. 

The glebe contains about nine arable acres, and from two to 
three under natural wood^ and is generally considered a good glebe. 
The annual amount of stipend is 134 bolls oatmeal; 50 bolls 
bear or barley, and L. 50 in money. There is a process of aug- 
mentation at present depending. There is no church or chapel 
of any kind within the parish, except the parish church ; neither 
is there any religious missionary or catechist. The church is ge- 
nerally well attended. All the parishioners belong to the Esta- 
blishment, except three families who are connected with the Relief 
body. The average number of communicants is 360. The 
amount of collections at the church for religious and charitable 
purposes during the year is about L. 12. 



LUSS. 167 

Education. — There is one parish school and two others in the pa- 
rish ; one for the ordinary branches, the other for educating girls, 
rapported partly by the family of Luss, and partly by the payments 
of the scholars. For many years, a salary was received from the 
Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, by the teacher pf 
the former of these two schools ; but the regulations having been 
departed from, the salary was withdrawn. The salary paid to 
the teacher of the parochial school, which is situated at the vil- 
lage, is the maximum : that paid to the teacher of the other school 
for common education, is L. 15 yearly, and he has school fees be- 
sides^ Tliis school is situated at Moorland, four miles south from 
Luss. A comfortable dwelling-house has recently been built for 
the teacher, at the expense of Sir James Colquhoun, and the te- 
nantry in the neighbourhood of the school. The mistress of the 
girls' school is paid L. 15 annually, but no fees. The branches 
taught in the parish school are, English, writing, accounts, Latin, 
French, &c. The teacher accommodates boys for board and edu- 
cation. In Moorland school, the same branches are taught^ Latin 
and French being excepted. The girls in the third school, 
which is located nearly half-way between the other two, learn sew- 
ing, reading, and writing. The parish teacher has the legal ac- 
commodations : and his school fees amount to L. 15 a year. The 
people in general are alive to the importance of education. The 
inhabitants of the upper part of Glenduglas are too far from any 
of the schools of the parish to send their children to them. The 
number of families so situated is four, — the nearest of them being 
five miles and a-half from the parish school. 

Library. — A library has existed in this parish for mani/ years, and 
seems to have been established for the sole benefit of the incumbents 
of the parish, as the books (upwards of 100 in number,) are all old, 
and chiefly in Greek or Latin. A small circulating library (up- 
wards of 80 volumes) was set on foot also some years ago, by the 
present incumbent, consisting chiefly of practical divinity. 

Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established nine years ago, and 
although those for whose benefit it was intended,* have not great- 
ly profited by it, — yet it has been very useful to the respectable 
servants in the parish. Nearly L. 300 have been accumulated. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of poor re- 
ceiving aid from the parish fund is 24 ; many of these receive 
small sums half yearly ; the average sum allotted to each weekly 
pauper being Is. 9d. The annual amount of contributions for 



168 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

their relief is as follows, on an average for the last seven years : 
Collections in Church, L. 38, lis. ; mortcloth dues, L.2, 10s.; 
proclamations of banns, L. 3, 10s. ; amount of seat rents, L. 9, 
7s. 6d.; interest of stock, L. 10, 16s.; donations, &c. L. 12; to* 
tal of contributions for poor, L. 76, 4s. 6d. There is no disposi- 
tion among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief. 
They do not now appear to consider it so degrading as formerly. 

Fairs, — There is one fiiir held within this parish, in the village 
of Luss, on the third Tuesday of August, for the sale of sheep and 
lambs. 

Imu, — At Luss there is a large inn. There are, besides, six 
licensed public-houses within the parish. Their effect on the 
morals of the people, is decidedly unfavourable. Three may be 
considered as sufficient for all useful purposes. 

June 1839. 



PARISH OF KIRKINTILLOCH* 

PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. ADAM FORM AN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The ancient name of the parish and district is Caer^ 
pen-tulachy which, in the language of the Cambro-Britons, signi- 
fies a ^' post or stronghold at the head or end of a ridge." This 
is entirely in accordance with the topography of the town of Kirk- 
intilloch, and no doubt alludes to the Peel or ancient warlike fort 
on the line of Roman wall near the present parish church. There 
is a place named Kintulach^ which, in 1581, belonged to the ab«- 
bacy of Dryburgh, and is also called Ridgend ; both are evidently 
from the same root, and both constituted part of the reversions of 
the Earldom of Lennox. The present parish of Cumbernauld 
formed part of the district of Kirkintilloch, till some time between 
the years 1507 and 1522, when the name of the whole district 
was changed to Lenzie, which was the name of the barony belong- 
ing to the Noble family of Fleemings, Earls of Wigton. But it 

* Drawn up by Rev. William Patrick, author of " A Description of the Plants of 
Lanarkshire,*' &c. &c. 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 169 

ivas not till 1659, when a new church was built for the {Lccommo- 
dation of the eastern end of the parish at Cumbernauld, (CumaV' 
n^^aldj L e. the meeting or confluence- of streams,) that both pa- 
rishes settled down to their present forms, each retaining its mo- 
dem name. The chapel of the Virgin Mary then became the pa- 
rish church for the inhabitants of the western end, at Kirkintil- 
loch, and is still in use. 

Boundaries and Extent. — This parish and the parish of Cum- 
bernauld, although both in the county of Dumbarton, lie quite de- 
tached from it, so that the western extremity of Kirkintilloch is 
about six miles distant from the south-east end of the main body 
of the county to which it belongs, the county of Lanark coming 
in on the south, and the county of Stirling on the north, and meet^ 
ing between them. The portion so detached includes a district 
about 12 miles long from west to east, and from 4^ to 2 miles 
broad. It contains 32^ square miles, or about 20,800 English 
acres ; a space nearly equal to that covered by the waters of Loch- 
lomond. The parish of Kirkintilloch forms the western end of 
this district. From a point between Gallowhill and Boghead in 
the west, to Dalshannan in the east, it is 6 miles and 6 furlongs 
in length. The widest place, from Mollinburn in the south, to 
Auchinvole in the north, is 3 miles and 3 furlongs. It is bound- 
ed on the east, by the parish of Cumbernauld ; on the north, by the 
parishes of Kilsyth and Campsie, in the county of Stirling ; on the 
west, by the parish of Cadder ; and on the south, by the parishes of 
Cadder and New Monkland, in the county of Lanark. It contains 
8527 Scots acres, or 10,651 English acres, and about 17 square 
miles. 

Topographical Appearances. — The parish constitutes a portion 
of the northern boundary of the great valley of the Forth and 
Clyde Canal, stretching from east to west, of considerable extent, 
and rising very little above the level of the Atlantic and German 
Oceans. It is cut off from the fertile districts of the Forth by the 
range of hills a little to the north, called the Campsie Fells, and 
from the vale'of the Clyde on the south by the high lands of Monk- 
land. The bottom of the valley seems at some ancient period to 
have been washed with a mighty flood, or rather with a continual- 
ly flowing tide. The banks on the north are high and often 
abrupt ; but on the south they are more undulating, and of no 
great elevation, consisting chiefly of trap ridges, with rich and ex- 
tensive arable lands between. The face of the country, therefore, 



1 70 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

rises to tbe south, and declines towards the north ; still the slope is 
so gentle, that very little of it can be said to have a northern ex- 
posure. The trap ridges seldom attain any great altitude, except 
at Stron and BarhitI on the east, where the elevated peak, and 
Ihe abrupt precipitous crag, often assume an alpine appearance. 
The range of the Campsie Fells on the north, rising often to the 
height of 1500 feet, affords a friendly shelter from the biting winds 
of the north ; so that the district, upon the whole, exhibits a happy 
combination of alpine wildness, and of pastoral simplicity ; yet en- 
joying all the advantages of a rich and arable country. 

Most of the farmers in the district, from necessity and interest, 
are great observers of the times and seasons, and many of them 
have notes, very accurately and copiously kept, of the state of the 
weather, particularly at the two most important epochs of the year, 
seed-time and harvest ; not only during their own experience, but 
also during the lifetimes of their fathers and grandfathers. Subjoin- 
ed are some of the principal of these observations in an abridged 
form. These rural annals extend as far back as the beginning of 
the eighteenth century, and relate chiefly to the seasons. * 

* The seven ill -years, as they are called, seem to have ended about ]704. On the 
27th November preceding, one of the most terrible storms ever known devastated a 
great part of England, and did much damage in Scotland. In 1709, there were three 
months of very severe frost, with heavy snows. 1712 was a wet season, with a great 
flood in harvest. 1714 was very dry; a great frost in 1716; 1723 remarkably dry, 
no rain till 26th October. 1725 very wet ; snow remarkably deep in 1731 and 17S6. 
However, from 1730 to 1740, the seasons were in general very favourable, only some 
shaking in 1739. The year 1733 was the year of the great hail which happened 
when all the crops were in ear. It commenced in Galloway, and skirted along the 
counties of Ayr and Lanark, did much damage in Renfrew and Dumbarton, and 
broke in a great wnterspout in the Campsie Hills. This dreadful storm carried de- 
vastation with it wherever it went. One farmer out of all his crops had only 
three bear-heads left, which happened to be sheltered by a great mugwort bush. 
The severe frost of 1740 is still spoken of. It in reality commenced in December 
17d9i and continued nine weeks, or a hundred and three days; a very bad crop fol- 
lowed, with an early frost in harvest. It was in January 1739 that the windy Satur- 
day happened, or exactly a hundred years before the dreadful hurricane of January 
1839. An early and good crop in 1742, rendered memorable by the Carobuslang 
work ; a ffreat hail in May 1745. The preceding harvest was very wet ; the crop 
greatly injured. The harvest of 1 745 also very bad, great rains and heated stoofat. 
From 1746 to 1749 all the crops were good, and meal cheap. 1750, a dry summer, a 
wet August, but a good harvest ; 1751-52, medium seasons ; meal 104d. and lid. per 
peck. 1753, light crop, early and dry. 1754, a good crop, preceded by a Ions and 
severe frost in winter. 1 755, wet seed-time, bad crop, late harvest with frost. 1756, 
wet late harvest, with a light crop, much shaking ; meal rose to Is. 6d. per peck. 
1757, rather dry and early, but corn yielded but little meal, which sold at Is. per 
peck. 1758, remarkably good season and fine crop ; meal Hd. per peck. 1759-60- 
61, were medium seasons ; meal low, but in 1761 it rose to Is. per peck. 1762, snow- 
ed eleven days together, late seed-time, dry summer, much corn, fodder scanty. 1763, 
a frost, which lasted ninety four days, rest of the season favourable, with a tolerable 
crop : 1764, backward season, and crop rather below mediocrity ; 1765, early sea- 
son, but frost and much rain in harvest. 1766, good seed-time, wet summer, good 
harvest, corn good in quality. 1767, medium season and crop, first half of harvest 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 171 

The following is the state of the winds for each month during 
that remarkable year 1799 : 

good, ktter half Tery wet. 1766. early Crop, but light and deficient ; 1769, tolerable 
good crop. 1770, crop in good hind excellent, high Unds deficient, fodder plentiful. 
1771, Tery bad crop, iU gecured, and heated. 1772, rather late, and scarcely a medium. 
In the month of June in this year, hailstones of great sise fell in many pbora, in some 
phwes it it and as large as nutmegs. 1779, a terrible storm in March, rest of the sea- 
aon rather laTOurahle, a tolerable crop. 1774, dreadful storm, September 30, and 
again in December 5, 6, 7, which did much damage by sea and land ; altogether a 
wet lata season, with a low ayerage crop ; 1775, great storm October 19, and again in 
November, the rest of the season excellent, and prices low. 1776, medium season and 
crop. 1777, late season, and crop indifierent. 1778, much the same as kst. 1779, a 
great frost, which lasted ttj^ty-four days, the season otherwise good, with an early 
hcrrest and good crop. 1780, a ^^ood season, but not equal to the last. 1781, good 
aeaaon and erop, but much duikmg. 1782, a severe bad season in May and June ; 
haiktonea of immense sise feU in some places; frost in harvest, a complete failure in 
the erop. There are no distinct notes from this time till 1799, which was a very bad 
season, with a poor late crop ; meal 2b. per peck, potatoes 8d. the small peck, and hay 
ia. 4d. per stone. At the end of the following year, 1800, oatmeal was 0%, per peck, 
pwsa meal, 2s., potatoes, lOd. small peck, hay. Is. 9d. per stone. There was a great 
£iilure of the crops all over Britain^ attributed to the great drought of the summer. 
In 1801, there vras the best seed-time in the memory of man — the year throughout 
was good, with a plentiful crop of every kind, and an early dry harvest. The first 
e^t months of the year 1802 were the worst in remembrance ; the four last were 
fine ; a late but plentiful crop, and all well got in. There was plenty of grain on the 
nere, but it did not meal so well as last year ; beef Is. per pound, mutton 9d., butter 
Is. 5d., cheese 9d., eggs per dosen Is. dd., peck loaf ds. 2d., oatmeal Is. dd., pota- 
toes, a poor crop and watery. Is. per peck. In 1803, a good crop, dry harvest, grain 
pitiful, oatmeal Is. 4d. per peck. The last seven months of 1804 all frood weather, 
with the best crop, full and ripo, and well got in, that occurred since 1801 ; oatmeal 
la. 5d. per peck. In 1805, meal at same price, a plentiful crop of every kind. In 
the harvest of 1806 there was a great drought, followed by a wet November and De- 
cember, corn, beans, and potatoes were all got in in fine order. 1807, a poor crop, 
oatmeal 2b., hay 2s., peaae, beans, and potatoes bad ; 1808» a fine crop, well got in ; 
potatoes, pease, and beans above an average, altogether a remarkably fine harvest. 
1809^ a good harvest, grain plentiful, but high priced ; oatmeal in June 2s. in July 
la. lOd. per peck. 1810, a beautiful warm sunny harvest ; no rain from dd Septem- 
ber till near the end of October, the best harvest and wheat seed-time remembered ; 
barometer above fair for six weeks together ; oatmeal Is. 6d., potatoes 9d. 1811, a 
great comet appeared near Ursa Major on the 9th September, extraordinary rains, 
frost, and winds in spring and beginning of summer, a medium crop. 1812, crop 
not all housed till the beginning of September, plentiful but dcnr ; meal 2b. 4d. and 
potatoes Is. per peck. 1813, a good harvest, and a most excellent return of all sorts 
of crops, meal Is. 6d. potatoes Is. per peck. 1814, a remarkably fine harvest, plenty 
of grain, but little straw, meal Is. 5d. per peck, potatoes 9d. per peck of forty-two 
pounds. 1815, a plentiful harvest all safely housed, oatmeal Is. Sd. per peck, pota- 
toes 9d., beef and mutton per stone 10s. 6d., skim cheese 5d. and sweet milk cheese 
9d. per pound. 181 6 was an uncommonly cold wet year, no sunshine ; a poor crop of 
every kind over all Europe, wheat L. 3, 10s. per boll oats L. 2, barley L. 2, 10s., 
oatnoeal 2b. per peck, quartern loaf Is. 5d. 1817 was the worst crop ever known in 
the west of Scotland ; the month of August was particularly bad. 1818, a plentiful 
crop of every kind in Scotland, but a poor crop in the south-east of England, pota- 
toes very plentiful, and of a fine quality ; harvest began in early places on the 10th 
of August ; new oats and barley in the Falkirk and Haddington markets on the 13th of 
August ; oatmeal Is. 5d, and potatoes Is. the peck. 1819, trees early in leaf, but de- 
stroyed by the frost early in June ; no equinoxial blast in autumn ; the longest set of dry 
warm weather in September since 1800 ; crop finished over all the country by the end 
of that month, very plentiful and well got in ; oatmeal 1 s. 2d. per peck. The Radicals in 
great commotion, especially towards the latter end of the year. 1820, harvest begun, 
but not generally, by the end of Augtut, and was very generally finished by the end 
of September. Upon the whole, a plentiful crop, and all safe. In November best beef 
10s. 6d. per stone, oatmeal 17s. 6d. per boll, butter l5. per pound, all very cheap. 



172 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 



January, 

February, 

March, 

April, 

May, 

June, 

July, 

August, 

Sqjtember, 

October, 

Norember, 

December, 



N. 


s. 


E. 


w. 


N.B. 


N.W. 


S.B. 


S.W 


1 


10 


1 


9 


2 


3 


1 


4 











8 





3 


2 


15 


1 








8 


1 


8 


4 


9 











11 


7 


4 


3 


3 











17 


4 


6 





4 








1 


21 


4 





2 


2 











9 








3 


19 











19 





2 


I 


9 





2 


1 


7 


1 


^ 


8 


10 











8 


6 


3 


4 


10 











17 





6 


1 


16 











19 











12 



2 12 3 155 25 36 29 103 

Hydrography. — The streams in this district are neither large 
nor numerous. The water of Kelvin, which is the chief, rises 
near Orchard, in the parish of Kilsyth, and runs in a direction 
nearly due west, towards the Clyde, formbg the boundary between 
the counties of Stirling and Dumbarton. Its course through these 
parishes is far from picturesque, and more resembles a great ditch, 
- or one of the slow sluggish streams of the south, than the " jouk- 
ing burnies," or " rattling roaring torrents," which sweep over 
their channelly or rocky beds in these northern latitudes. Before 
reaching the Clyde, however, near Glasgow, its stream expands, 
its banks become elevated, bold, wooded, and highly picturesque, 
and being studded here and there with elegant country seats, and 
smart villas, are altogether worthy of the beautiful ballad in their 
praise, entitled *' Kelvin Grove," so well known, and so deserv- 
edly popular in the west of Scotland. Near to Kirkintilloch the 
Kelvin is crossed by a bridge, and is about forty yards broad. The 
Luggie, a tributary of the Kelvin, is the next stream of importance. 
It suddenly bursts up in a large and vigorous spring in the midst 
of a morass, on the farm of Torbrax, in the parish of Cumber- 
nauld. After entering this parish at Dalshaunan, it forms the 
boundary between it and Lanarkshire till Barbeth, where it entire- 
ly enters the parish of Kirkintilloch, and runs by Duntiblae and 
Oxgang, and joins the Kelvin to the north-west of the town of 
Kirkintilloch. Throughout the greater part of its course, it keeps 
by the level grounds, and is, like the Kelvin, a slow muddy ditch- 
like stream, subject occasionally to great inundations. Tlie banks 

The notes from which I quote are not so distinct after this date. It is stated that 
the ayerage of rain for seven years before 1788, which was a remarkably dry year, 
was 25 inches, whereas in 1788 it was only 14.5. On the 29th and dOth May 1809, 
there was the greatest fall of snow ever known at the season of the year. The snow 
was nearly a foot deep. There was aUo a great frost, the rivers frozen, and many 
trees broken down by the weight of the snow. 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 173 

are mostly low, ragged and ungainly, but near Oxgang and Dun- 
tiblaoi they are high, imposing, and finely wooded. The Buth« 
land Burn rises at Gamkirk, winds in a romantic manner around 
the fine old turreted mansion-house of Bedlay, solacing the whole 
scene with its pleasing and perpetual murmurings, and finally loses 
itself in the Luggie at Oxgang. Another small streamlet, called 
the Bord Burn, rises near Croy-mill, crosses below the Forth and 
Clyde Canal at Shirva, and is soon after swallowed up in the Lug- 
gie. All the streams which flow into the Luggie are from the 
south, whilst those which flow into the Kelvin, with one exception, 
are from the north. This latter river is the trough of the waters 
which flow from the bordering counties of Lanark and Stirling, 
There is a small lake at Gartshore, named the Bord Loch, which 
covers about four acres of ground. It has some pike, and is fre- 
quented by wild ducks and teals. It seems to receive its chief 
supply of water from a copious spring in the centre, which in the 
severest frosts is seldom covered with a thick coat of ice. This 
arises from the spring-well temperature of the water, great part of 
which is seldom much below 50^ of Fahrenheit. Accidents are 
accordingly said to have occurred here on the ice. There is a 
tradition of the loss of a great many lives on one occasion, by the 
ice giving way, when overloaded by curlers. The Forth and Clyde 
Canal, which forms the most important hydrographical feature of 
the district, will be mentioned in its proper place. 

Geology and Mijneralogy. — The district of Lenzie lies on the 
northern border of the great coal field of Lanarkshire, after all the 
main seams of the most valuable metals crop out, and where the 
different beds of limestone on which they rest come to the surface 
with their accompanying deposits of coal and ironstone. It is also 
connected on the east with the great carboniferous deposits, which 
stretch along both sides of the Forth, including on the south 
side of that river, the district as far east as Blackness, and from 
Avon Water to the Forth, and the whole range of coal country on 
the north of that river from Culross to Dollar, and eastward by Dun- 
fermline, Auchterderran, Leven, Largo, Elie, St Monance, and 
near to St Andrews. Were a geological map of this part of Scotland 
to be produced, the district of Lenzie would probably be included 
in the range of these coal fields. It is in vain, however, to search 
here for any of the main seams of the great Lanarkshire basin, 
as they are all run out before they reach this locality. This great 



174 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

district is hemmed in by the porphyritie rocks of the Ochil rang^ 
on the north, continued in the Campsie hills to Dumbarton, which 
divide the red sandstone from the coal formation of the Forth and 
Clyde. Part of the parish of Kirkintilloch, with part of the adjoin- 
ing parishes of Cumbernauld, Kilsyth, and Campsie, seem at some 
remote and unknown period to have formed the bottom and sides of 
a great inland sea or lake, which stretched in an easterly and westerly 
direction along the valley of the Forth and Clyde Canal. This great 
basin of water appears to have been studded with islands or inches, 
as they are sometimes called, the memorials of which are still pre- 
served in the names of the places. Among the still existing chrono- 
meters of this sort, which have escaped the wasting influence of the 
hand of time, and still live as it were to speak and testify for them- 
selves, we may mention Inchbreck and Inchbelly in this parish, 
and Inchterf, Inchwood,and Netherinch in the parishes of Campsie 
and Kilsyth. The whole of the tract in which these lost or ci" 
devant islands, if I may so speak, occur, partakes considerably of 
the character of a lowland valley ; but were it necessary absolutely 
to define its geognostic features, we would rather rank it among 
the broad flat-bottomed valleys which abound in many places in 
Scotland. They are less rugged and picturesque in their outlines 
than mountain vallies, and less extensive than lowland ones. Still 
this resembles the lowland valley, in so far that it appears to have 
been originally scooped out by the same natural agencies ; and from 
a careful inspection of the whole, it seems as if a large body of 
water had passed over it rounding the inequalities, and acting on 
the masses of strata in proportion to their power of resistance. At 
the same time, the valley of the Forth and Clyde Canal, especially 
in so far as it is connected with this parish, has much of the charac- 
ter of a drained lake, or indicates a locality where the rivers or 
floods, not having had any great velocity, have had time to deposit 
a considerable quantity of sediment over a flat sur£ice, in the mid- 
dle of which many islands no doubt appeared. In the country to 
the north of this valley, and also considerably to the west, in the 
parishes of Old and New Kilpatrick, there is a continuity or iden- 
tity of strata, accompanied with various alpine ranges, consisting 
of whin, chiefly diorite, resting on the lower members of the coal 
formation. The Campsie range, which borders on the parish of Kir* 
kintilloch, immediately to the north, is of this description ; which, 
although the giant range of these districts is, however, itself mimick- 



KIUKINTILLOCH. 175 

ed or approximated by variouj} smaller ridges to the south in the pa- 
rishes of Kirkintilloch and Cumbernauld, which are of similar struc- 
ture, run in the same easterly and westerly directions, and may all 
be ascribed to the same geological epoch. The shapes or general 
forms of these ridges are considerably modiBed by the currents 
of water which, at an early period, have apparently flowed between 
them, probably from east to west, which is indicated not only by 
the grooviogs and dressings on rocks, and the abrading efiects of 
the liquid among the materials opposed to its passage, but is also 
rendered extremely probable by the natural lie of the whole dis- 
trict, and more especially by the fact, that the surface of the river 
Forth is about five feet lower than that of the river Clyde — a 
&ct ascertained by the levels on the line of the Forth and Clyde 
Canal* 

The principal deposits of coal in the district of Lenzie are only 
such as are immediately connected with the carboniferous group 
of limestones, and all lie in awilleysj or small insulated patches, of 
very inconsiderable length and breadth. These small indepen- 
dent basins are generally of an oval shapj, and evidently seem to 
have been once small lakes or marshes, the strata having been de< 
posited on the bottoms and sides, taking the concave form, which, 
under such circumstances, -we would naturally suppose them to as- 
sume. In all of these swilleysy the stratum of coal that is of con- 
inderable thickness at the base, becomes thinner, and gradually 
fines off towards the edges, and at last totally disappears. This 
. fact proves that the present basin-shaped position of the strata 
was their original one ; and that the basin, at the period when the 
coal was deposited, was a detached lake or marsh, and not a part 
of the bed of the sea. These coal beds are evidently of consider- 
able antiquity, and must have preceded some considerable local 
convulsions of nature. This is indicated by the fact, that while 
the small coal-basins at Holland Hirst in the east, and at Shirva 
on the west, both respectively retain their original or native forms, 
that at Strpn, which lies exactly between them, and on the same 
line running east and west, the coal has been up -heaved by a great 
mass of diorite whinstone, which forms a considerable hill, and the 
whole original basin has accordingly been reversed in its shape, or 
has become saddle-backed, resembling a cup or basin turned upside 

• It is beliered that the bed of the Forth has been raised 20 feet. This would 
give 26 feet of a fall. 



176 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

dowDy or lying with its mouth undermost, and the bottom in the 
air. That this basin was originally of the same form as those at 
Holland Hirst and Shirva there can be no doubt. The whin-hill 
at Stron must therefore be of a more recent date, and probably 
the coal basins of which we are now to speak are of a date pos- 
terior to the causes which led to the formation of the great valley 
in which they are deposited. 

The Shirva field, a little to the west of the Stron, is a small cop 
or swilky^ thrown in and out again by two hitches or troubles, 
which run along the northern and southern boundaries of the 
coal basin, which is of an oval form, probably about a mile in 
length, and half a mile in breadth. The coal here is about 
six and a-haif feet in thickness, is rather soft; in its texture, 
and comes up to the day, as the miners term it, at a very acute 
angle. It is wrought upon the inclined plane system. About 
four feet above this coal, there is a two inch coal with a roofing 
of shale, upon which a four feet post of limestone rests, which is 
again succeeded by a roof of shale, which reaches to the surface. 
This limestone resembles that found at Gladdens, near Glasgow. 
About five fathoms below the thick coal, there is another seam of 
coal thirteen inches in thickness, which is succeeded by a bed of 
sandstone twenty feet thick. No farther search has been made. 
This is, upon the whole, a very singular little patch of carbonife- 
rous matter, altogether very unlike any other found in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

At Holland Hirst, in the parish of Cumbernauld, but only a 
little to the east of the Stron in this parish, there is another sin- 
gular small independent basin of coal, which, for the sake of con- 
nexion, it may not be improper to describe. This field consists of 
two seams, the upper or main coal, 3 feet thick, and a thin seam of 
18 inches. Like that of the Shirva, it forms an oval basin upwards 
of half a mile in breadth, and from the present workings at the en- 
gine at Arneybog eastward to the Red-burn, fully a mile in length. 
It is cut off from the Netherwood lime-fields by a hitch running 
east and west, which may be seen crossing the country a little 
above the Redburn Bridge, at Castlecairy. It is cut off from the 
Cumbernauld lime-field on the south by a large greenstone ridge, 
which runs by Craigmarloch, the back of Cumbernauld Inn, and 
the picturesque waterfuU a little above the old house of Castle- 
cairy. The coal here is thrown in from the north, which v/ould 
seem to connect it with the Stirlingshire coal-fields. It was sup- 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 177 

posed to extend cousiderably to the west, but this, as we shall pre- 
sently see, has been proved not to be the case from recent borings* 
The three feet or main coal is three fathoms above the thin or 
eighteen inch seam, and thecalm limefourfeet thick, nine feet above 
the main coaL The thin coal is wrought long-wall, so that all 
the coal is wrought out. The main coal is wrought ^< stoop and 
room," but not so extensively as the former. The engine pit is 
38^ fathoms deep, fitted with an excellent engine of eleven horse 
power, adapted to draw both coals and water. This work as well 
as the extensive collieries at Banknock, on the opposite side of 
the canal, belong to the Honourable Admiral Fleming. The 
works at Shirva belong to Walter Ballantyne, Esq. 

In a position almost exactly between these two small insulated 
basins of coal, and also on the south bank of the canal, is the sin- 
gular conical coal-field of Stron or Barr-hill. The minerals here 
are the property of Captain Murray Gartshore, of Gartshore, and 
* William Wallace, Esq. of Auchinvole. This field, as we have seen, 
is saddle-shaped. The prevailing rock in this locality is a felspatho- 
pyroxenic trap, which, as already stated, seems to have burst up at 
a period subsequent to the formation of the coal-field, carrying the 
coal, &C. along with it. This hill is in a peculiar range of coun- 
try, namely, exactly in the direction of the anticlinal line, which 
alters the dip of the metals from east to west, and runs of course 
in the direction of the strike. If a line were drawn on the map 
of Scotland from north to south through this hill, it would be 
nearly the anticlinal line of a large portion of the district. It 
will pass on between the sources of the Eudrick and Carron on 
the north, causing the one to run east, and the other west In 
the south, the same line determines the courses of the numerous 
waters which run into the Tweed and the Clyde. The Clyde 
and the Forth alone, with daring impunity, boldly cross and sweep 
along this line, and at these crossings of the anticlinal line lie the 
principal coal-fields. The anticlinal line, which here produces the 
divergence of all the metals, runs up the face of the Barr-hill, by 
the Stron engine, so that all the metals to the east of that line dip 
to the east, and all the metals to the west dip to the west The 
strike of the metals is due north and south. The dip of the coal- 
field at Shirva is accordingly to the west, while that at Holland 
Hirst is to the east These speculations must be taken with some 
degree of allowance, but they will be found near the truth. There 
are two principal seams at Stron, as at Holland Hirst ; but the 

DUMBARTON. M 



178 DUMBART0N6HIRK. 

thin coal is only from 14 to 16 inches thick. The thick or main 
coal is four feet thick, and lies about seven fathoms below the thin 
seam. A black band of ironstone lies about seven fathoms above 
the thin coal. There are besides, five other small and inferior 
bands of ironstone connected with the seams. The coal here is 
good for smithy purposes, and a great proportion of it is used oa 
the spot in the making of coke. Mr Wallace has 24 coke-kilns 
at present in use, and Mr Gartshore 13. These are erected to- 
wards the summit of the Barr-hill, nigh to the remains of the 
Roman wall, and shine forth in a dark night like beacons to all 
the country round. Admiral Fleming has also extensive works 
of the same kind at Holland Hirst. About 32 cwt of coals put 
into each of these kilns yields a ton of coke. The coals require at 
least two days to roast; but this depends much on the state of the 
atmosphere. In March 1834, when coke sold at 16s. 8d. per ton, 
the expense of working, with the profits, might thus be estimated : 
Coke per ton, worth 16s. 8d. ; working the coal 32 cwt. to a' 
ton of coke, 8s. 8d. ; cost and keeping up of kilns and expense of 
charring, 2s. 6d. By subtracting the two latter sum^, or lis. 2d. 
from 16s. 8d., there is a clear profit of 5s. 6d. per ton for the land- 
lord and tenant. The above works, including Holland Hirst, send 
annually to the Glasgow market, by the canal, about 2148 tons 
of coke. 

The thin coal in these collieries is difficult to work. The 
colliers are paid about 2s. per cart, equal to 3s. 4d., and some- 
times as high as 3s. 9d. per ton at the room fkces. The main 
coal, on the other hand, is put out as low as Is. 8d. per ton, carried 
to the pit bottom. The average price is 2s. 6d. per cart, equal 
to 4s. 2d. per ton. Great quantities of fish bones were discover- 
ed when digging the engine pit at Holland Hirst ; but organic 
remains are not so common in these strata as in some others. 

There are at least five distinct main posts of lime in this district^ 
all apparently entering it from the south, showing it to be the bot- 
tom of the Lanarkshire fields ; while its surface and principal mi- 
neral beds to the east are evidently connected with the carboni- 
ferous groups of the coal-fields of the River Forth. The upper- 
most post of lime occurs at Milncroft, in the parish of New Monk- 
land, exactly on the confines of the district of Lenzie. The se- 
cond post is the celebrated deposit in Cumbernauld, lying on each 
side of a deep and romantic ravine, and forming by far the best 
lime for all purposes in this part of the country. The third post 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 179 

is the calm-limestone found in the pit at Holland Hirst. The 
fourth post is the underwood lime thrown out from the Holland 
Hirst coal by the hitch above alluded to. The fifth post occurs 
at Shir?a. It is the third post or calm-limestone which chiefly 
runs throughout the parish of Kirkintilloch. This is a very ex- 
taisive deposit, and, with some of the accompanying upper and 
lower limestones, runs along the whole of the level tract by Cum- 
bernauld and Bedlay to Glasgow, along the valley of the Forth and 
Clyde Canal, in this part of the country, and stretches also along 
the range of the Campsie Fells, where it is in some places 50 or 
60 feet in thickness. It is a hard dark-blue lime with few organic 
remains, and yields but little effervescence with acids. It is well 
fitted for building purposes, and for smelting iron, but is little 
used by the agriculturist. A fine section of this limestone is cut 
through at the viaduct bridge on the Kirkintilloch railway near 
Bedlay. The Bedlay lime, which yields large supplies to the 
Monkiand iron-works, is of this post 

The ironstone found at Stron belongs to an entirely different 
group from that found near Airdrie. In the Monklands, the up- 
per black band is found about 25 fathoms above the ell-coal, and 
Musbet's black band about 15 or 16 fathoms below the splint coal ; 
but all these seams are totally run#out before they reach thi^ quar- 
ter. The black band of ironstone, however, on the Barr-hill, 
seems of excellent quality, and may yet be wrought to great advan- 
tage. The following journal of a bore at Stron will afford some 
idea of the order and succession of metals. 



Soft brown sand, 

Blue-till, 

Ironstone hand, 

Dark fakes mixed with blaes, 

Bock in beds, • 

Blaea, 

Hard white rock, 

Black blaes. 

Ironstone band. 

Very black blaiae, 

Ironstone band, 

Black blaes, 

Grey fiikes, 

Hard fiikes. 

Hard white rock, 

Very hard rock. 



1. 


Bore at Stron, 






FL 


In, 




Ft, 


In, 


7 





Soft white rock, 


4 


6 


2 


8 


Grey fakes in beds, 


7 


10 





6 


Black blaes. 


20 


5 


7 


6 


Hard black fakes, • 


3 


10 


7 





Black blaes, 





4 





4 


Ironstone band, 





4 


5 


2 


Black blaes mixed with fakes, 


3 


2 


14 


9 


Black fakes. 


5 


9 





3 


Blaes, 





3 


1 


H 


Ironstone band, 


1 








2 


Black blaes, 


1 





8 


n 


Hard blaes. 


6 


9 


6 


9 


Ironstone band, 





4 


4 
2 


9 
4 










133 


"e 


2 


2 









The depth here is upwards of 22 fathoms, in which there occur 
six dirtinct bands of ironstone, many of them very thin, averaging 



180 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

upon the whole about 2 feet 9 inches in thickness. The 8-inch 
seam is the best. The coal does not occur in this bore, which was 
made in the bed of the lake-like valley to the north of the canal. 
The 7-feet of soft brown sand lying upon blue till has every ap- 
pearance of aquatic origin. The coal is found on the south side 
of the canal, to the east and west of this bore, as appears from the 
following journal, down only to the first workable coal. 

Ft. In. Ft, In. 

Blue till mixed with freestone, 19 6 Fire coal of the smithy kind, 2 9 

Greyfiikes, . . 2 Rock, .0 

Blaes, ^ ^ 



2 








6 


8 





1 


9 



Rock in beds, ..80 34 10 

Dark-grey fakes, 

In this journal we have the blue-till on which the soft brown sand 
in the valley seems to rest ; but here it is mixed with shattered 
fragments of freestone and other rocks, striking memorials, we may 
imagine, of the destructive eETects produced by the eruption of the 
greenstone rocks from below. 

It was long suspected that coal might be found to the west of 
Holland Hirst, or between that colliery and the colliery at Stron. 
The experiment was lately made, but proved a failure. The fol- 
lowing journal, however, has an additional interest, as having been 
put down in the ditch of the Roman wall or Graham's dike, on 
Westerwood farm. Afe the first breaking of the soil, a nondescript 
sort of earth was found, containing the debris of many substances, 
which the borers, for want of a better name, have termed surface. 
The bore failed in its chief object, the discovery of coal. It is as 
follows : — 

//. In. Ft. In. 

Surface, . 13 Freestone, . . 2, 2 

Freestone, . .80 Dark-grey fakes, 2^2 

Dark fakes, . 9 Dark blaes, . 2 

Blaes, . .04 Hard kingle, .07 

Hard rock, • . 2 ._i_ 

Dark fakes, ..01 26 1 

Another bore was put down near Wyndford Loch, to the 4epth 
of upwards of 33 fathoms. It consisted almost entirely of repeat- 
ed layers of hard faky matter, or a mixture of freestone and shale, 
with two seams of coal of a foul coarse quality, about a foot each in 
thickness, and a coarse limestone of three inches. In one place, on 
the valley of the canal, after a bore of two fathoms, they were stop- 
ped by gravel. 

These bores are all on the east side of the parish. We will now 

examine the west side where it borders with Cadder. We have 

seen that the calm limestone is the most extensive, and most re- 

3 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 181 

• 

markable of the stratified rocks in this district. It is found in the 
pits at Holland Hirst, and also at Woodmill, Bedlay, and all along 
by Gamkirk, Huggenfield, Robroyston, and Cathcart. Near the 
Kirkintilloch railway, at Bedlay, it is found in great perfection. It 
is generally in two plies, separated by blaes. The following jour- 
nal will afford some idea of the accompanying metals. 

Ft. In. FU In. 

Blue limestone, . 2 Hard grey sandstone, . 3 4 

Shale, . . .13 Light hard sandstone, 3 4 

Blue limestone, ..30 Kingle, . .95 

Dark blacs, . . 12 Hard slaty sandstone, 13 4 

Freestone plies and blaes, 9 7 Dark fire-clay & slaty sandstone, 21 9 

Cool, . . .08 Dark shale, . 11 11 

Dark hard fakes, . .47 Dark fire-clay with ironstone 



1 


3 


3 





1 


2 


9 


7 





8 


4 


7 


12 


I 


1 


4 


8 


5 


11 





11 





5 


3 


2 


8 



Slaty sandstone, . 12 I bolls, 36 7 

Coal, ..14 Dark hardstone, . 6^ 

Slaty sandstone, . .85 Dark freestone and shale, \0\ 

Hard grey sandstone, . 110 Coal, ..06 

Dark ft-eestone plies, 110 Dark freestone and shale, 11 4 

Dark fire clay, .53 Coal, . . .26 

Light sandstone, . 2 8 Dark-grey pavement, 2 

Were I to compare the limestones on the north of the great 
Lanarkshire basin, with those on its south-western boundaries, I 
would point out the Calderside lime between the parishes of Blan* 
tyre and East Kilbride, as corresponding with Millcrofk; lime, the 
Auchintibber as corresponding with the Cumbernauld, but of in- 
ferior quality, and the limestones to the west of Kilbride as cor- 
responding with the Netherwood lime. There is nothing equiva- 
lent to the calm limestone on the south-west of the county of La- 
narL Although this district, therefore, properly speaking, lies at 
the bottom of the Lanarkshire coal-fields, still it is connected with 
other fields to the east, particularly with the Falkirk coal-fields, 
which seems to be cut off from the fields still farther to the east, 
by traps, as at Bowden and Cockleroy, which rise out from below 
it. Probably the whole district may here be viewed as one of de- 
nudation, which has been cleared of all the upper strata, and final- 
ly cleared of the waters which overwhelmed it, by the upheaving of 
the Campsie and other traps with which it abounds. 

The prices of boring in this district, where the metals are sel- 
dom at any great depth, are as follows : 

First 5 fathoms at ds. per fathom, 
Second do* at lOs. do. 
Third do. at 15s. do. 
Fourth do. at 208. do. 
Fifth do. at 258. do. 
Sixth do. at 30s. do. 

Total 30 fathoms cost . 



L. 1 5 





2 10 





3 15 





5 





6 5 





7 10 





L. 50 10 






182 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

The following will afford an idea of the expense of shanking and 
mounting a pit on a hmited scale in this quarter. 

Five fathoms shanking, . . L. 19 

Awindlas. . . . 1 10 

A rope and chain, .... 2 

Five fathoms of pipes for pumping water, . 4 10 

Total for five fathoms, L. 27 

The following is the average annual rental of the minerals in 
the parish of Kirkintilloch. 

Barr-hlll colliery, Mr Gartshore, let to Marshall and Wallace 1834, L. 225 

Stron, Mr Wallace, . . . . . 300 

Shirva colliery, Mr Ballantyne, . . 200 

Orchardtown Limework, Mr Sharp, let to A. Baird, 1834, . ^00 

1000 Tons of coke at 16?. per ton, . . 1600 

Total rental per annum for minerals, . . L. 2575 

The above is only an estimated rental, taken from the heritors' 
books, with one exception. Probably the real value is greater. 

The trap rocks in this district are often very remarkable. Near 
Smithston« by the road side, there is a greenstone in which the 
rock assumes a columnar form. There is a singular ridge of dioritic 
whinstone at Mollinsburn, through which the new Kirkintilloch 
road is cut. It runs east and west, and rises up so abruptly as to 
resemble a great quartern loaf lying on a table. The place where 
the above road passes, seems like a piece cut out of the loaf. ^ 

As to the soils of this district, they are not generally so heavy 
as farther south ; they do not so decidedly incline to clay, and are 
upon the whole more grassy. In the genuine coal-fields, grass is not 
the favourite herb, but various species of ranunculus, yarrow, 
daisies, and other insignificant weeds are very prevalent. The 
bottom of the valley of the great canal is nearly all transported 
soil. Near Auchinvole, and in several other places, there are beds 
of water-formed sand of considerable thickness. The ground 
along the southern part of the Kelvin is of a deep marshy nature, 
and is often overflowed by the river, particularly near to the junc- 
tion of the Luggie and Kelvin. The soil of a small tract to the 
north-east angle is of a light reddish colour, upon a whinstone 
and gravelly bottom. Around the town of Kirkintilloch, the soil 
is a light black loam, 16 or 18 inches deep, on a reddish tilly bot- 
tom. A strong natural clay prevails throughout the southern 
and eastern parts of the parish, where it comes more immediately 
into contact with the genuine coal measures. Tracts of moss, af- 
fording a black peat earth, are interspersed, here and there, through- 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 183 

out the whole district The following is nearly the amount of peat 
moss in the parish. 

Drum M088, - - - - 40 acres. 

Mosflfinnin and Bedcow, - . . 40 

Barbeth, - . . • - 12 

Muirside Moss, - - - - 12 

Pkitches of moss elsewhere, - - 30 

134 acres. 

Zoology. — At Cumbernauld, at the east end of the district of 
Lenzie, an ancient breed of white cattle were kept for many ages, 
after they had disappeared from every other place in Scotland. 
We have a direct testimony to this fact, from a variety of celebrat- 
ed and reputable authors, from the earliest periods to the present 
times. As this district, at one time, belonged to the Cummins, it 
is probable, that the same breed were also at Hamilton, as the es-> 
tate of Cadzow also belonged to the same family. They have 
been long extirpated from Cumbernauld^ There is, however, 
one of ihefercenaturce which still keeps its ground there, the nim- 
ble and elegant Cervus capreolusj or roe. It is very frequent in the 
woods at Cumbernauld and Castlecairy, and has of late been hunt- 
ed by hounds trained for the purpose. When attacked, it is very 
shy of leaving its cover, but when driven to the open field, it does 
not run swiftly, but seems to leap or bound like a calf, and unless 
another place of shelter be near, is soon overheated and overtaken. 
The Sciurtis vulgaris^ or common squirrel, abounds in the woods. 
The Lepus cunniaduSf or wild rabbit, is more common in the woods 
than formerly, and has probably been introduced by the gen- 
tlemen of the chace to feed foxes. Better feed them on rabbits 
than on their tenants' poultry. Along the banks of the canal, in 
particular, the Arvicola aquatica^ or water-vole, and Sorex fodiensj 
or water-shrew, are very common. Other quadrupeds common to 
this part of Scotland are also found. Among the birds of prey, 
the BtUeo ceruginosus^ or gled, and the Buteo nisusy or sparrow- 
hawk, are the most destructive. In the last Statistical Account of the 
parish, drawn up by the Rev. William Dunn, the author states, that 
" the advantage resulting from our late improvements is attended 
with one circumstance of which we have reason to complain, which 
is this, that the use of lime upon our lands, the filth which is con- 
veye into our rivers, from the coal-works in the neighbourhood, 
and the machinery which have been erected, have already render- 
ed a salmon-fishery, which was considerable, very insignificant ; and 
indeed there is too much reason to apprehend, that the fish in our 



184 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

rivers will be almost totally exterminated by the joint effects of these 
different sources of destruction." The remark is true with regard 
to the salmon-fishery, which was at one time important enough, 
to be expressly retained by the family of Cumbernauld, when they 
dispensed with the rest of their property in this neighbourhood. 
That the number "of fish has generally decreased is also very proba- 
ble. The chief kinds now found are the following ; — the reader, 
however, will remark, that I am not quite satisfied in my mind as 
to the Salmo albus, 

Salmo salar, common salmon I^euciscus rutelus, roach ^Sccitki^ braixe 
fiirio, common trout - phoxinus, minnow 



•• albus, whiteiiiigor white trout Perca fluviatilis, common perch 



Esox luciua, common pike 

Botany. — The only thing worthy of remark in the botany of 
this district is the immense quantity of Lathyrus salicariaj or pur- 
ple-spotted loosestrife, which fringes the southern bank of the ca- 
nal, and in the months of July and August, when in full blossom, ex- 
hibits a rich display of purple spikes of flowers, and altogether pre- 
sents to the eye a peculiarly gay and captivating appearance. The 
Iris pseudacorus, or yellow water iris, and the Menyanthes trifoliatay 
also contribute to swell the more than usual exuberance of ver- 
dure. In this entangled mass of foliage there may be occasional- 
ly detected a few specimens of that rare and beautiful plant Lysi^ 
machia thyrsifloraj or tufted loosestrife, and also some rare Cari- 
ces, and a variety of interesting aquatic plants. The Arenaria 
vernoy or vernal sandwort, rather a rare plant, occurs in dry gra- 
velly places between Cadder and Kirkintilloch. A variegated va- 
riety of the Urtica urens^ or common nettle, sometimes occurs. The 
Sambucus ebulus abounds in a field on the northern precincts of the 
parish, near the mansion-house of Glorat. The Valeriana offici- 
nalis is more common here than in Lanarkshire. 

The principal plantations are on the estate of Gartshore. They 
extend to upwards of 326 acres, and are finely and very imposing^ 
ly laid off. The trees chiefly planted are larch, spruce, and 
Scotch fir ; but little hard-wood. The principal mansion-houses 
in the parish are well ornamented with trees, and there are some 
pretty extensive plantations, as at Boghead, but not so important 
as to require to be specified. 

II. — Civil HrsTORY. 
This district must have been of great importance so far back as 

the time of the Romans, as it was here that they had one of their 

principal forts. In the year 1184, the town of Kirkintilloch was 

erected into a burgh of barony by William the Lion. Before the 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 185 

year 1195, William, the son of Thorald, who held the manor of 
Kirkintilloch, granted to the monks of Cambuskenneth the church 
of Kirkintilloch, with half a carucate of land. William Cummin, 
afterwards Earl of Buchan, held the manor of Kirkintilloch in 
1201. The estates afterwards came into the hands of the Noble 
family of Fleming. There is in the charter-room at Cumber- 
nauld an ancient charter from Alexander II., dated about 1226. 
In the " Registrum Magni Sigillt Regum Scotorum," published by 
order of Government, there is a charter to Malcolm Fleming from 
King Robert, conveying ** totam baroniam de Kirkintolach que fuit 
quondam Johnis Comyn.'' In the reign of Robert 1 1, there is a char - 
ter of confirmation, dated Kinghorn, 20th July, the fourth year of 
his reign. This had reference to the claim of William Boyd, son of 
Thomas Boyd, the former proprietor of the barony of Lygne. The 
same monarch, by a charter dated Arnele, ISth May, in the third 
year of his reign, grants ^' Villa de Kerkentuloch to Gilbert Ke- 
nedy, grandson of Malcolm Fleming." In 1526, James V. ^^ ra« 
tifyies and apprevis the charter of new infeftment maid by our so- 
verene Lord to Malcolm Lord Flemyng, making the touns of 
Biggar and Kerkentuloch, burghis of barony, with the mercat 
dais, in all punctis, with arteklis, after the form and tenor of the said 
charter of infeftment maid thereupon.'' In 1672, William Earl 
of Wigtown built a bridge of three - arches over the Luggie, the 
old bridge being quite ruinous. The building of this new bridge 
is said to be a '* maist necessary and useful bridge for the saife 
passage of all persons who travel from Edenbro and Stirling to 
Glasgow and Dumbarton, being situated on the highway leading 
to and fro these toun^." The Earl, in consideration of the ex- 
penses he was at in building the new bridge, was permitted by Act 
of Parliament, for the space of five years after the opening of the 
same,toexactanimposition,of four pennies Scots for every ox, horse, 
or cow, four pennies for every ten sheep, and eight pennies for 
every loadened cart. This district formerly belonged to Stirling- 
shire. Some time between 1507 and 1522, the name of the whole 
was changed from Kerkentulach to Lenzie. In 1621, an attempt 
was made to get a new church erected in the middle of the pa- 
rish, but without success. In 1659, the parishes of Kirkintilloch 
and Cumbernauld were finally separated. A new church was built 
at the east end for the new parish, and the chapel of the Virgin 
Mary, built 1644, became the parish church of Kirkintilloch, as 
at present. 



186 DUMBAIITONSHIRE* 

In 1745, the Highlanders descended directly upon this part of 
Scotland from the Craw road along the western limb of the Camp* 
sie range. A stupid and cruel-minded man fired from a barn bole, 
and killed one of the rebels as they passed through the town of 
Kirkintilloch. This wanton and unwarrantable action led to very 
serious results to the inhabitants of the burgh. They were order- 
ed to give up the murderer to justice, but, on being unable to do 
so, a heavy fine was imposed upon them. On the return of the 
Highland host northwards, the town was again put into a great 
panic, it being reported that they were to come that way, and 
meant to bum it. An aged person tells me that his fether was an 
eye-witness of the confusion which prevailed on the approach of 
the much dreaded host. People were flying in all directions, in 
the utmost despair, taking with them what they valued most ; and 
among the rest, he particularly remarked an infirm old man making 
his escape with his cow and a chaff-bed thrown over her back. 
But a more dreadful, and not less dreaded foe, was destined to in- 
vade the peaceful burgh of Kirkintilloch well nigh to a century 
after. This was no less than that appalling scourge, the Asiatic 
cholera, which visited this place in 1832, after having visited Had- 
dington and Musselburgh. Kirkintilloch was the first .station it 
touched at in the west of Scotland, and if the local agitation was 
great, the terror of the whole country around was, if possible, still 
greater. The total number of cases was 96 ; deaths, 36 ; cures, 
60. Of the 36 fatal cases, 10 were children, 14 females, and 12 
full-grown males. 

Antiquities. — The castle of Kirkintilloch, on the Kelvin, ap* 
pears to have been a place of considerable strength, in the end of 
the thirteenth century, when it belonged to John Comyn, who lost 
it and the barony of Kirkintilloch, by forfeiture, on the accession 
of Robert Bruce, when it was given to Sir Robert de Fleeming, 
ancestor of the Honourable Admiral Fleeming, in consideration 
of the eminent services rendered in the course of the long and 
bloody contest, which that monarch carried on with the English, 
for the possession of the Scottish throne. No traces of this an- 
cient fortress now remain. In the northern side of the parish, 
there is an ancient square tower, known by the name of the tower 
of Banheath. This was in ancient times a stronghold of the 
Boyds, Earls of Kilmarnock, whose armorial bearings are still 
blazoned above the door. It was at one period surrounded with 
woods, and had a deer park. In the memory of persons now liv- 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 1S7 

ing, the tower was covered with a leaden roof, and was surrounded 
by a ditch. It is still pretty entire, but in a state of complete dis- 
repair. 

But by far the greatest object of curiosity in the district, either 
to the antiquary, or general reader or scholar, is the remains of 
the ancient Roman wall, with its peels or forts. It appears that 
no less than six walls were built along this narrow neck of land by 
the Romans. The first was built by Julius Agricola, the first 
of the Romans who penetrated into Caledonia, about a. d. 81. 
A second wall was built between the Forth and Clyde by Lollius 
Urbicus about a. d. 138, under the Emperor Antoninus. It was 
built of turfi and fortified by castles of stone* work. Capitolinus 
expressly mentions this wall, and memorials of it are preserred in 
the inscriptions both of the Emperor and General. Carausius, 
who usurped the empire in Britain towards the end of the third 
century, according to Rennius, (cap. J 9, Eldit. Gale,) built or 
repaired the wall between the Clyde and Forth, about a. o. 289. 
The marches of the empire were again repaired under the Em- 
peror Valentinian, by his general Theodosius, in a. d. 367, when 
the province of Valentia was formed. The marches of the em- 
pire, or the above wall, was also repaired by Stilicbo about a. o. 
398. When the Romans finally left this part of the country they 
caused the Britons first to repair the wall, which was of turf, and 
of little use. Bede says it was situated between the Forth and 
Clyde, and begun at a place called Peneltun in Saxon, and 
Penualin Pictish, (Nenricus calls itC^nua/, perhaps Kennal,) about 
two miles distant from Abercorn, and ended towards the west at 
Alcluyd or Dumbarton, on the Frith of Clyde. The same au- 
thority says it was very broad, and very high, and that the remains 
of it were to his time. The wall of a. d. 426 was between the 
Tine and Solway. 

It is the remains of the wall described by Bede which are now 
to be seen. It enters the parish of Kirkintilloch at Barr, crosses 
Barr-hill, and then the canal at Shirva, runs in a westerly direc- 
tion near the south bank of the Kelvin, passes the town of Kir- 
kintilloch, at the back of the parish church, and leaves the parish 
near Mr Thomson's of Belfield. The whole distance is about 
six miles. During that brief space, there have been no less than 
three distinct forts or castles, which are on high and naturally 
strong positions, well-fitted to see to a great distance around, and 
to exercise an extensive surveillance not only over the pieces of wall 



188 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

committed to their keeping, but also over the whole country around. 
The first of these posts upon the east side stands upon the top 
of the Barr-hill, a situation so elevated as to command a view of 
almost the whole length of the wall from east to west ; or over a 
space of country upwards of thirty-two miles from sea to sea. 
The fort is a square area of 150 yards. About the time the last 
statistical report of the parish was written, some vaults belonging to 
it were discovered. They were all entire, covered above with flat 
bricks, and floored with a mixture of lime, and black and white 
gravel, with sand, as if from the sea-shore, very unlike any that 
is now to be found in this neighbourhood. The next of these 
forts, proceeding westward, is situated three miles distant, at the 
village of Auchendowie. It is of an oblong rectangular figure, ex- 
tending 150 yards one way, and 70 another. This fort is now 
sadly mutilated, and can scarcely be traced. The Forth and 
Clyde Canal is cut through it Two miles onward in the same 
direction is the fort or peel, as it is called by way of distinction. 
It is situated on a piece of rising ground at the west end of the 
town of Kirkintilloch. The ditches and forms of the fortifications 
are still pretty distinct, except on the west side, where they have 
been lately levelled and turned into a kail-yard. The fort is of 
an oblong rectangular form, 90 yards in length, and 80 in breadth. 
It is singular in being situated on the north side of the wall, where- 
as all the other forts stand upon the south side. From the his- 
tory of the place* subsequent to the time of the Romans, there is 
more than ground for suspicion that this was one of the strong- 
holds of the Comyns, during the time of the disturbances with the 
English. Certainly the traces of the remains of the fortifications 
are much fresher here than at any of the neighbouring stations'; 
and the reason probably is that they are newer, and may therefore 
be referred to comparatively modern times. That this was once 
a Roman fort, there can be no doubt; the only question is, as to 
the remains of the ditches and redoubts now visible. A piece of 
lead, weighing upwards of 11 stones, of the shape of a cast of pig- 
iron, was lately found. It has been sawn into two pieces. There 
are some rude marks on it resemblino; the Roman numerals for 
two hundred. Stones bearing inscriptions have also been dug up 
among the ruins of all these forts. Many of these are in the Hun- 
terian Museum at Glasgow. Mr Dunn, the last minister of Kir- 
kintilloch, mentions one with the words Legio Secunda Augusta 
Fecit. The ditch is in a pretty entire state in many places on the 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 189 

property of the Honourable Admiral Fleeming, between Castle- 
cairey and the Barr-hill, and also in this parish. It is sometimes 
of considerable depth, and twenty or thirty yards broad, covered 
with a thick coating of verdure. The bottom of it is everywhere 
pervaded with masses or rather fragments of broken stones. It 
is here uniformly called Graeme's Dike. 

III. — Population. 
In 1751, the Rev. Dr Erskine, at that time minister of Kirkin- 
tilloch, aflterwards of Edinburgh, found the population to be as 
follows : 

Families in the town, . . 195 

in the country, . . 226 

Persons in the town above eight years of age, 575 

in the country, do. do. 796 

The addition of the Seceders and Quakers, at that time in the 
parish, made up 1400 examinable persons, which, being taken at 
one-half of the population, will give 2800 of a population. This 
is Mr Dunn's data, deducible from Dr Erskine's returns, but it is 
erroneous. Dr Erskine gives the total families in town and coun- 
try at 421 ; and if we allow four to a family, which is a fair enough 
calculation for those times, it will give a total population of 1664^ 
The return of souls to Dr Webster in 1755 was 1696, so that 
the total increase in four years was only 32 souls. The number 
of inhabitants in the parish in 1791 was as follows : 

In the town, 1536 

In the country, , . 1 103 



Toul, 2639 

This shews an increase in forty years of 943. 



Population in 1801, 
1811, 
1821, 
1828, 
1831, 



3210 
3740 
4580 
5518 

5888 



The increase in ten years, from 1791 to 1801, is 570; from 
1801 to 1811, the next ten years, 530 ; from this last period till 
1821, it is 840 ; 938 for seven years, from 1821 to 1828; and for 
three years from 1828 to 1831, the increase was 370; so that in 
the ten years before 1831 the total increase was 1308. The gross 
average annual increase for the whole period is rather more than 
81 per annum. The full particulars of the census of 1828 are in 
the hands of Mr John Moffat, merchant in Kirkintilloch. The 
following are its general results. 



190 



DUMBARTONSHIRE. 



Landwardt 
Burgh, 



Above 12 yean of age. 

928 
2755 



Below 12 years of age. 

418 
1417 



Total. 

1346 
4172 



Total, 8683 . . 1835 . 5518 

The increase per anDum at this period, Mr Moffat supposes to 
be about 120. The result of the Government census of 1831 is 
as follows : 

3006 
2882 



Males, 
Females, 



Total, 5888 

The following are the general outlines of the census for the 
purposes of the Church Commission in 1836. 



Districts. No. 


of souls. 


Above 12. 


I. Barr, 


328 


223 


2. Shirva, 


202 


157 


3. Eastside, , . 


555 


441 


4. Hight Street, north side. 


676 


436 


5. High Street, south side. 


163 


102 


6. Hillhead, 


673 


455 


7. Waterside, - . 


353 


245 


8. Gartshore, 


284 


206 


9. Middlemuir, 


92 


63 


10. Cowgate, 


1362 


1061 


11. Townhead, 


1222 


802 


Omitted in Townhead, 


20 


15 


12. GaUowhiU, 


116 


78 


13. Belfield, &c. 


110 


56 



6156 43.30 

The lists are uncommonly accurately taken down, and neatly 
and carefully assorted ; but it is probable some of those who were 
entrusted with them have got bewildered in one department, name- 
ly, in ascertaining the numbers above twelve years of age, and 
those above seven. The proportion of those above twelve years of 
age is probably here too great. The average number of procla- 
mations and baptisms in the parish church for the last eight years 
are as follows, (premising in the meantime that by the Church Com- 
mission returns, there are in the parish 18 bachelors, heads of fa- 
milies, 91 old maids, and 80 widows.) 

Years. Proclamations. Baptisms. 



AOtJtr, 

1831, 


60 


lift 
99 


1832, 


41 


120 


1833, 


44 


83 


1834, 


44 


104 


1835, 


61 


107 


1836, 


62 


105 


1837, 


42 


107 



404 



33 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 191 

The proclamations, as here given, are at the rate of one marriage 
to about ievery 113 individuals, which is about the usual average 
in this quarter of Scotland, sometimes a little more, and sometimes 
a little less. In Hamilton it is 117, and in England generally 
120. There is one baptism to every 60 persons, which is about 
twice too much : the true number is probably about 30. Accord- 
ing to this computation, the total number of baptisms in the parish, 
among Churchmen and Dissenters, will be about 1600 or upwards. 
The deaths, as far as can be ascertained, are about one to 120. 
Members of families, 1114; inhabited houses, 615; houses, unin- 
habited or building, 1. Illegitimate births about 7 per annum. 

State of Landed Property. — In the beginning of the fourteenth 
century, the whole parish, excepting the burgh lands of Kirkin- 
tilloch, and the barony of Western Gartshore, (which has for 
many ages been possessed by that ancient and respectable family, 
Gartshore of Gartshore,) was the entire property of the Noble fe- 
mily of Flemings, Earls of Wigton. Lord Elphinstone, in 1735, 
married Clementina, the only daughter and heiress of John, 
the last Earl, at whose death in 1778, the male line of that house 
became extinct. Lady Clementina Fleming lived till 1799, when 
she died at the advanced age of eighty. The Honourable Admi- 
ral Fleming, second son of John, eleventh Lord Elphinstone, is 
now the heir-general to the whole Wigton estates. The last of 
the property in this parish belonging to the family was sold off in 
1757, but they still retain the feu-duties, and some other casual- 
ties of feudal superiority. Admiral Fleming has held some of the 
highest appointments in the British navy, and is now on the chief 
command at Portsmouth. He is equally distinguished for his pub- 
lic and private worth and intelligence ; and it is to him, and that 
excellent patriot, the late Sir Peter Murray of Auchtertyre, the 
father of Captain Gartshore of Gartshore, that the public are in- 
debted for the very superior roads which everywhere intersect this 
district of country. 

The family of Gartshore, as above stated, is of great antiquity, 
and has long resided in this part of the country. The present re- 
presentative of the family. Captain Murray Gartshore, second son 
of Sir Peter Murray of Auchtertyre, with his excellent and amiable 
lady, a daughter of Sir Howard Douglas, Bart, her Majesty's Com- 
missioner for the United States of the Ionian Islands, has of late 
resided chiefly on his estate in this parish, where he is universally 
beloved and respected. It is understood that he is about to erect 
a new house among the fine plantations near the Barr-hill. To 



192 



DUMBARTONSHIRE. 



judge from the plans, the building will be at once elegant and 
commodious, and will add not a little to the picturesque beauty of 
the district — Major Berry has an elegant and commodious seat 
near the town of Kirkintilloch, and many fine villas and 
manor houses of wealthy and respectable individuals are scat- 
tered in different parts of the parish. Owing to the gradual 
dismemberment of the Wigton estate, which, at one period, ex- 
tended over many neighbouring parishes, the property has been 
very equally distributed, and is now in the hands of a great many 
proprietors. In this respect, it may be considered as a model of 
a parish so circumstanced, and it may therefore not be improper to 
give an analysis of the present state of property, so as to make 
figures speak, instead of words. 

In the roll of the real valuation of the parish, there are no less 
than 311 proprietors of lands and houses, so that every nineteenth 
person nearly is possessed of some heritable property. The num- 
ber of female proprietors is 52, with a gross yearly income of 
L.839, 7s. lOd. It may not be uninteresting to observe the pro- 
portion in which this considerable sum is distributed among them. 
They constitute nearly one-sixth of the whole proprietors, but the 
proportion of their gross yearly income is only about one-twentieth. 
The numerals indicate the number of individuals, and the sums 
their annual income from property. They are put down promiscu- 
ously as. they occur on the roll. 

No. of persons. Annual income. I Nc 



1 


L. 5 10 


2 


5 18 


8 


71 8 


4 


8 1 6 


5 


5 5 


6 


86 


7 


69 1 4 


8 


9 


9 


6 5 6 


10 


5 14 


11 


5 18 9 


12 


2 


13 


22 16 


14 


4 15 


15 


7 8 9 


16 


6 1 6 


17 


17 14 6 


18 


12 18 6 


19 


1 4 


20 


1 5 


21 


21 2 


22 


16 4 1 


28 


4 5 


24 


27 19 


25 


8 8 


26 


29 15 


27 


9 



>f persons. 


Annual income. 


28 


L. 4 


29 


8 1 6 


SO 


11 


81 


3 15 


82 


6 


88 


2 11 


84 


7 14 


35 


5 2 


86 


60 


87 


29 10 


88 


85 


89 


17 


40 


21 


41 


25 


42 


11 19 


48 


17 2 9 


44 


26 18 11 


45 


7 10 


46 


13 12 


47 


16 16 


48 


4 5 


49 


4 14 


50 


6 14 9 


51 


2 


52 


16 17 6 


rotal, 


L. 889 7 10 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 193 

The old original Scotch valuation of the parish is L. 5085. The 
real rental is L. 14y600 Sterling, which being allocated at Sd. 
per pound Sterling, as at present, brings a yearly income of 
L. 121, 19s. 4d. The total number of names of heritors upon the 
roll is S09, of whom 189 pay minister's stipend, and 144 school 
master'ssalary. The number of proprietors of land of L. 50 and up- 
wards is 3d. There are also as follows : L. 10 or under per annum, 
40 proprietors; L. 10 to L. 20, 15 do.; L. 20 to L. 50,31 do.; L.50 
to L. 100, 19 do. ; L. 100 to L. 150, 4do. ; L. 150 to L. 200, 5do. ; 
L. 200 to L. 300, 4 do. This calculation does not include the 
larger estates. The following are the principal : 

Estates. Acres. Rental of Lands. Woods. Minerals. 

Gartshore, 1518 L. 1488 6 L. 220 L.250 

Qigaqg^ 131 387 

Shir?a, 170 380 200 9 

Anelilnyole, .151 271 300 

There are eleven principal tenants, with sundry smaller ones on 
the estate of Grartshore, and about eight tenants on Oxgang. 
There are in the parish 3076 acres, 2 roods, and 19 falls under 
cultivation, which yields an average annual rental of L. 8468, 4s. 
6d. The net produce of lands and houses is as follows : 

Districts. 

1. HJIHiead, east side, .... 

2. Burgh Isnds, East Midr, south-east side, 

5. Including Woodhead, Woodmill, Dalshannan, > 
4. Hole, Barbeth, &c. &c. ( 
5- Drum, Drumbreck, Gartshore, &c. 

6. Tintock, East Muir, Luggie bank, &c. 

7. Waterside, Solesgirth, &c. 

8. Woodilee, Caefinuir, Oxgang, &c. 

9. Muirbead, Greens, Boghaetd, &c. 

10. Industry, Backrow, &c. .... 

1 1. Freeland Place, Townhead east, &c. 

12. Townhead, east and west. Canal bank, &e. 
IS* Cowgate east, Broadcrofc, and Blackcauseway, 
14. Cowgate west, Blackloch, &c . . . 
16. High Street, north and south sides, 
16. Bellfield, Westerraains, &c. 

L. 13,759 9 6 

The landward proprietors are about 128, with upwards of 105 
tenants under them. The following table will show the comfor- 
table circumstances in which many of the inhabitants of this pa* 
rish are placed, in regard to that degree of comfort which depends 
on the possession of property. The kinds of property are lands, 
houses, and| feus ; — the numeral letters indicate the number of 
persons condescended upon : 

DUMBARTON. N 



Annual net rentals. 


L.722 


2 10 


. 265 


11 11 


822 


4 6 


2185 


10 8 


1231 


11 


110 


11 4 


925 


16 


. 554 


2 


. 38« 


15 


660 


15 3 


442 


7 


617 


7 9 


1017 


6 


774 


3 10 


1393 


4 2 



194 



DUMBARTONSHIRE. 





Annual income 


Annual income 


Annual income 


Proprietors, 


from land. 


from houses. 


from feus. 


1 


L. 135 


L.359 




2 


322 


22 13 


. L. 28 11 6 


3 


190 


141 


44 13 I 


4 


19 


52 5 





5 


46 


116 5 10 





6 


11 10 


130 14 3 


1 4 


7 


9 


69 


6 5 6 


8 


290 


13 





9 


45 


81 





10 


10 


45 





11 


141 


50 





12 


28 


81 








In their 






In their 


Farmers. 


femilies. 


Weavers. 


families. 


19 


133 


8 




54 


. 9 


63 


14 




91 






52 




280 


3 


11 


43 




160 








4 




16 


1 


3 


104 




477 


. 3 


14 


135 




823 


3 


16 


64 




202 


. 





41 




273 








14 




97 



As a contrast with the above, we may give some statistics re- 
lative to the more dependent classes, which will speak for them- 
selves. 

Districts. 

1. Barr, 

2. Shirva, 

3. Eastside, 

4. High Street, north side, 

5. High Street, south side, 

6. Cowgate, 

7. Townhead, 

8. HUlhead-GaUowhill, . 

9. Waterside, 
10. Middlemuir, 

Here we have 471 weavers heads of families, with 2473 de- 
pendent on them ; or making up parts of their families ; whereas 
38 farmers with their large incomes and greater need of assistance, 
have only 240 living along with them, either as dependents or as 
members of their households. The average number of individuals 
in a weaver's family is five and a fraction ; in a farmer's femily^ 
six and a fraction ; but the means of support cannot be calculated 
by the same ratio. 

In speaking of the habits of the people collectively, we may say 
with Mr Dunn in the last report of the parish, that they are in 
general " a virtuous and industrious people." " The pride of 
mind,'' he continues, ^^ and impatience of contradiction, which the 
possession of landed property frequently inspires, perhaps, may 
occasion too many law-suits." In this respect, they are certainly 
naturally not more pugnacious than their neighbours, although 
the great subdivision of property among them creates also a sub- 
division of rights, and, of course, furnishes a greater opening for 
law-suits. This is certainly one evil arising from an extensive 
subdivision of heritable rights, but it has also its counterbalancing 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 195 

advantages, and one of the most remarkable of these is the encou- 
ragement of yirtuous and industrious habits, arising out of the ha- 
bitual sentiments of self-respect and self-dependence. This is no . 
imaginary statement ; its effects have been manifested in the re- 
markable fact, that, with the increase of trade and manufactures, 
a rapidly multiplying population, and in an extensive district of 
country, within a few miles of Glasgow, no poor's rate was ever 
imposed by law, till within these few years past : all was done by 
Toluntary contributions. This fact of itself speaks volumes in be- 
half of the orderly, industrious, and virtuous habits of the people 
of Kirkintilloch. 

IV. — Industry. 

Total frmiUes^ 1114 

FamilieB employed in agriculture, as formers, cottars, and farm-ser- 
vants, - - - - - -118 

in trade, handicraft, manufactures, &c. - - - 96 1 

not in any of the above emi)lovments, - - - 35 

Number of wholesale merchants, capitalists, bankers, professional per- 
sons, and other educated men, - - ' - - 50 
Oocopiers employing labourers, - - - - -34 

not employing labourers, .... 72 

Labourers in agriculture, ...... 152 

Employed in manu&ctures and machinery, - - - 724 

Retail trade, handicraft, or maltsters, - - - - - 214 

Biales twen^ years of age, ..... 1367 

Male-«ervant8 twenty years, --.... 1 

under twenty, - - - . . 2 

Female servants, ....... 129 

When the last statistical account of the parish was drawn up, 
there were — weavers, 185; stockingmakers, 11 ; smiths, 15; 
house-carpenters and cabinet-makers, 20 ; masons, 10 ; shoe- 
makers, 10; saddlers, 4; coopers, 6; a good many tailors, and a 
few hair-dressers. At that period, namely, 1791, there were in 
the burgh 1536 ; but in 1828, when the total population was 5518, 
there were in the burgh 4172. The following is the state of the 
principal trades at present, as drawn up by Mr William MoflFat, 
preacher of the Gospel: Slaters, 5; masons, 12; house-carpen- 
ters and cabinet-makers, 30 ; tailors, 20; bakers, 12 ; shoemakers, 
24; blacksmiths and locksmiths, 10; house-painters and glaziers, 
4 ; hair-dressers, 2 ; saddlers, 2 ; weavers, 2000. 

It will be observed, that there is a decrease in the stocking- 
making trade, also among the saddlers and coopers, and an as- 
tonishing increase among the weavers. Some of these articles are 
probably supplied from Glasgow. In the Church Extension list 
I also find the following heads of families, namely, 7 founders, 
10 printers in cloth, 13 sailors, 5 maltmen, 20 merchants and 
grocers, 7 carters, 2 plasterers, 2 thatchers, 2 quarriers, I m\\V- 



A 



196 



DUMBARTONSHIRE. 



Wright, 3 gardeDer39 2 sawers, 2 carriers, 2 butchers, 1 musician, 
2 calenderers, 6 hatters, 3 painters, 1 nailer, 4 toll-keepers, 60 
labourers, 3 surgeons — there are 7 in all. 

Agrictdturc—^The lands are for the most part arable, but still 
the proportion is not so great as might at first sight be imagined. 
The total number of Scots acres in the parish is 8527 ; but by 
the returns of Messrs Shaw and Miller, two most able practical men, 
who made up an estimate of the rental of the landward part of the 
parish in August 1836, which is attested by the sheriff of the 
bounds, it appears that there are only 3076 acres, 2 roods, and 
19 falls, under regular cultivation, leaving an overplus of 5451 
acres. A large proportion of this residuum is taken up by the 
town of Kirkintilloch, and the rest by the canal, railway, public and 
private roads, hedges and fences of all sorts, which are numerous, 
farm-houses, streams, and burns, and a few straggling villages. 

The only uncultivated land in the parish is towards the east end, 
about Stron and Barr-hill, and the mosses already alluded to. Al- 
together the waste lands, with the above exceptions, do not amount 
to, perhaps, more than 300 acres, if so much. To this amount 
we may add other 300 acres now under wood, chiefly larch, spruce, 
and Scotch fir, with a sprinkling of hard- wood. These yield good 
returns, or may be expected to do so. The average rent of land 
per Here throughout the parish is about L. 1, 10s. But the ave- 
rage will be better shown as follows : In 131 properties in the 
hands of the same number of proprietors, and of 108 tenants, the 
proportion between the number of acres, and the rental per an- 
num, generally on a lease of nineteen years, is as follows : I shall 
put them down at random, as taken from the books of the heritors, 
and from other sources of information. 

Acres. 
03 
70 
65 
50 
30 
28 
50 
9 
.8 
80 
60 
45 
80 
90 
57 
30 
80 
72 
50 

Tbo total number of acres is 2252, and the total annual ren- 



Annual rental. 


Acres. 


Annual Rental. 


L. 140 








12 


22 





122 








80 


130 





65 








70 


110 





80 








45 


95 





90 








130 


175 





80 








80 


105 





172 








175 


111 





32 








43 


70 





26 








70 


94 





170 








30 


45 





120 








160 


350 





100 








130 


295 


9 


70 








151 


271 





83 








44 


130 





60 








36 


40 





50 








28 


55 





60 








19 


55 





100 










2252 






55 


L. 3828 






J 

KIRKINTILLOCH. 197 

tal of these acres L.d828 Sterling; the average is L. !» ffs. 6^d. 
or L. 1 , 10s. nearly per acre. There is very little permanent pasture 
except at Barr-hill. The best land in the parish is at Shirva. 
Oats, barley, hay from sown grasses, flax, pease, beans, and a small 
proportion of wheat, are the principal crops sown. The usual ro- 
tation of crops in dry lands is for the ^rst year a white crop ; for 
the iecond yesit a green crop ; on the third year the land is sown 
down, partly with wheat, barley, or oats, and in the fifih and sixth 
years it is allowed to lie in pasture. In wet lands, generally two 
white crops are taken, or one of them in flax, which is chiefly 
sown towards the east end of the parish. The other crops are as 
above. In the third year, some farmers sow down with barley and 
rye-grass ; and where that does not answer, they plant potatoes ; in 
the fourth year, there is a hay-crop, and the fifth and sixth are 
pasture. Flax is not so much sown now as formerly. Flax, after 
paying expenses, may be worth from L. 5 to L. 6 per acre ; oats 
at 5 bolls per acre, L. 3^ lOs.; wheat from L.9 to L. 10; hay 
from L.5 to L. 6 on clean land; barley, L.5; potatoes, L.I6 
per acre. The price of manure for an acre of land, if well done, 
is L. 8) 2s. The price of labouring it, L. 1. Dung is sold at 4s. 
and 4s. 2d. per square-yard. There is I^ square-yard in a ton. 
One hundred tons costs by the Canal L.20, or 5s. per ton. 
Horse and cow-dung is sold in Kirkintilloch at 6s. per ton. 
About four carts of dung are required for an acre of potatoes, 
which will cost L. 10. An acre of potatoes, when laboured by the 
spade, costs about L. 1, lOs.^ for labour by the plough, L. 1, Is. 
Calculating the expense of labour as above, by the plough, per 
day, there will be for three men, 6s. ; three women, 3s.; a plough 
and two horse^s, 12s., = L. 1, Is. The best men-servants for agri- 
cultural labour may be had at from L. 16 to L.20 per annum, 
with board and washing ; boys at from L. 4 to L. 10. The best 
women-servants are hired at from L. 9 to L. 10 per annum; in- 
ferior, L. 6 ; labourers in winter earn 9s. per week, in summer, 
12s.; masons, L.1, Is., and carpenters, 18s. The rate of wages 
in the following trades from 1810 to 1820 was, — 

1811. 1812. 1813. 1814. 1815. 1816. 1817. 1818. 1819. 

8. d. 8. d. s. d. R. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. 8. d. s. d. 
Haaons per day, 2 10 3030309030343 2 26 
Joinera & Carpentera, 3 0303030303030 3024 
Maaons Ubourert' do. ) 10 1 10 1 10 1 10 1 10 1 10 I 10 1 6 1 3 
Slaters* ditto. 343434343634343434 

Sawyers' do. . 404040404040404040 
Blacksmiths' do. 2626262626282 82 82 8 

Plasterers' do. 3 6 B 6 3 6 3 8 3 8 3 6 3 6 3 6 3 6 



198 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

The working hours of masons and all who labour in the open 
air, are reduced from 1st November to 1st March, and from 
that month till November are again increased, and of course the 
wages bear the same proportion. In the above calculations, al- 
lowance is made for these alterations, and the average only is given. 

There are about 148 horses in the parish, employed entirely in 
agricultural labour, which is at the rate of 4 horses to every 100 
acres. In the town of Kirkintilloch, there are 20 common car- 
ters' horses, taxed at 10s. 6d. each for road-money. There are 
also in the parish about 740 cows; generally about 12 or 14 
milch-cows, or, including young cattle, ^0 in all to the hundred 
acres of arable land. There are, besides, a number kept by private 
individuals, for retailing the milk to the public. The horses are 
of the Clydesdale breed, but rather small. The covfs are of the 
Ayrshire breed, and very good of their kind. Mr Anderson of 
Smithston, on the eastern borders of the parish, has been long 
celebrated for the excellent sorts of cattle reared by him. He 
and his father, who was also a skilful rearer of cattle, have contri- 
buted much to the amelioration of the breed both of the horse 
and of the dairy-stock of cattle in the district. He was one of 
the prize-takers at the late great cattle-show in Glasgow. The 
average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 2, 10s. per ox or cow 
grazed, and at the rate of 10s. per ewe or full-grown sheep pas- 
tured for the year. But these latter are very few in number. 
The keep of a horse per annum to the farmer who has every thing 
within himself, is about L. 12. 

There has not been so much draining in this parish as in some 
others, but to this general remark there are many individual ex- 
ceptions. Mr Horn of Braes is well known as one of the most 
able and successful agriculturists in the west of Scotland, and has 
drained more than any other person in the parish. Messrs Stew- 
art of Barbeth, and Inglis of Woodhead, have brought in a good 
deal of moss. The following are the estimated expenses of 
draining and improving one acre of mossy marshy land. 

Tiles per acre, ..... 

Casting drains 8d. per rood, und soles for tiles of wood, 

Casting and filling, Is. per rood, 

For delving, . . 

For putting one inch of sand on surface, 

For dung. 



Per Acre. 


L.6 








1 











4 





3 


10 





2 








3 


2 





L.15 16 


~0 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 199 

Id every hundred acres of arable land, there may be 20 acres 
ID oats, 8 acres in potatoes or green crops, 20 acres in hay, 6 
acres in wheat or barley, and fully one-half in pasture. There 
may be in the whole parish annually about 615 acres of oats, 246 
acres of potatoes, 615 acres in hay, and 184 in wheat or barley, 
which, out of 8076 arable acres, leaves 1660 for white and green 
crops, and 1416 for pasture, which latter amount is probably a lit- 
tle below the mark. 

Produce. — Proceeding upon the above data, the average gross 
amount of produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascer- 
tained, will be as follows : — 

IVoduoe of grain of aU kinds, whether cultivated for the food of man 

or the domestic animals, ... L.5900 

Potatoes, turnips, &c .... 3800 

Hay, ... 2000 9 

Pasture, ...... 1500 

Flax, . . . 200 

Gardens and orchards, 200 

Thinning woods, 100 

Minarals, ... 2573 



Value 


per 


annum 


as 


rental. 


L.40 








70 








50 








25 





9 


95 









L. 16,275 

An acre of oats in this parish is worth about L. 6 Sterling ; 
wheat, L. 8; hay from L. 3 to L. 6 ; potatoes, L. 12. The above 
estimate does not include the manufactures. The mills for work- 
ing up the agricultural produce are 

Acres of land 
attached. 

Woodmilis, oats, flour, &c. . . 6 . 

Duntiblae, do. do. . 3 . 

Pergushill, flax, . 20 . 

Boghead, do. . . . 12 . 

Hole, do. . . . 45 . 

L.280 

Woodmilis is the property of Mr Wilson, and has been lately 
completely fitted up with new machinery of the most approved 
construction, with a thrashing mill attached. Thirlage is still in 
use in the corn-mills. 

Manufactures. — The principal manufacture in the town is that 
of cotton goods for exportation. The principal manufacturers are 
Mr John Marshall, and Mr Grey of Duntiblae. Mr Marshall at 
one period employed from 1200 to 1400 hands, and at present 
from 500 to 800. The trade here is chiefly in lappets for the 
East India trade, with a few purls and victories for the South Ame- 
rican trade. Lappets are muslins with raised flowers in imitation 
of tambouring ; purls are a gauze with lappeting on it ; victories 




200 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

are a sort of thin gauze web. The lappets are woven in the usual 
way, with the aid of a wheel with catches, and a spring which raises 
and depresses the needles which form the flowers. The thread is 
never changed, but always comes through the same needle, and 
hence resembles tambouring. This trade is at present most de- 
pressed. Mr Marshall employs 44 journeymen, who have every- 
thing provided. They can make 6s. and 7s. per week each. This 
work goes all to India, from whence letters are often received in 
two months. In 1835, there were 1600 weavers in the town of 
Kirkintilloch ; according to the statement of Mr Marshall, there 
are now about 2000 weavers. Perhaps the cotton trade, in 
shape of wages alone, will bring into the town of Kirkintilloch, 
L. 700 per week, or L. 36,400, per annum, which is only at the 
moderate allowance of 7s. per week each, or L. 18, 4s. Sterling 
per annum. Among the 2000 weavers, there are only, however, 
471 male heads of families, and, allowing five to each family, it 
will make 2355 individuals in all, but from actual surveys, the num- 
ber dependent on these 471 heads of families is 2473. Now, if 
we take this latter number as the gross amount of weaving popu- 
lation, we will find that there is only about one- fifth not employed 
at. work, so that there must be a great deal of clubbing, or of the 
joining of wages together, which may make up a good common in - 
come. A weaver's wife can wind pirns for three looms, which, at 
Sd. each, yield 9d. per day. 

Besides the cotton trade, there is a calico printfield employing 
about 120 hands, including printers, ipechanics, and labourers. 
There is also a silk-hat manufactory employing upwards of 20 
hands, and an iron foundery well employed. There are two dis- 
tilleries in constant operation, and one occasional distillery. Of 
the two in constant operation, the one produces 1800 gallons of 
whisky per week, and the other 1400 gallons, or in all 3200, ^hich 
is 116,400 gallons per annum, which at the moderate computation 
of 6s. per gallon, will yield per annum L. 49,920 Sterling. 

The average hours of labour for weavers is 12 hours per day ; 
masons and labourers 10 hours in summer, and 7 in winter ; join- 
ers and carpenters 10 hours; shoemakers, blacksmiths, and tailors 
12 hours; painters, plasterers, and slaters the same as masons. A 
labourer's wages per day ought to be equal to the price of a peck 
of oatmeal. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
y Ww. — The town of Kirkintilloch is a very ancient burgh of 



KIBKINTILLOCB. 301 

barony. " It was erected," says the late Rev. William Dunn, "about 
1170, by William King of Scots, Baron of Lenzie, and Lord of 
Cumbernauld ; and still holds of the barony of Cumbernauld for 
the payment of 12 merks Scots of yearly feu-duty." At this rate 
it was erected into a burgh of barony two years before the city of 
Glasgow, which was in 1172; but I find from the town's docu- 
ments, that the true date of the erection of the burgh of Kirkin- 
tilloch is 1184. There was a renewal and confirmation of the 
charter by the Earls of Wigton, first at Cumbernauld, 10th De- 
cember 1520, and again at Boghall, 10th February 1527. The 
annual feu-duty is as above, 12 merks or Ids. 4d. per annum. 
The bui^h proprietors have also the teind-tack (dated Novem- 
ber 1642,) of the teinds parsonage and vicarage of the burgh 
lands or Newlands mailing. The town paid on obtaining this 
grant 650 merks, or L.30, lis. l^d. Sterling. The burgh 
lands are the thirty-three and a-half Newland mailings, includ- 
iog tbe town and lauds of Boghead and Gartcloss. The pri- 
vil^es with which the town is endowed are ample. Its burges- 
ses elect their own magistrates, independently of the lord of the 
barony. The magistrates are two bailies, and they are annually ^ 
chosen. They are empowered by the charters of the burgh, to 
hold courts, levy fines, imprison ofienders, or even banish them 
from their liberties; and, in short, to exercise every right with 
which the baroq himself was invested before the erection of the 
burgh. These rights, the community have continued, ever since 
that period, to enjoy undisturbed. They were in no degree af- 
fected by the act, by which the British Parliament in 1748 abo- 
lished the heritable jurisdictions in Scotland. None are entitled 
to vote at the election of magistrates, except burgesses being the 
proprietors of the Newland mailings. They are at present twenty- 
two in number, sixteen of whom are resident. Courts are held, 
but at no stated times ; a proof that the cases are not numerous. 
The burgh, besides the above, is possessed of no exclusive privi- 
leges, and has no local acts in its favour. There are no local 
taxes, nor any incorporation of trades. The town's debt is about 
L. 300 Sterling, the annual revenue about L. 30, the greater part 
of which is expended in paying the interest on the debt, and in 
keeping up public buildings. The population of the town at the 
present moment may be about 4600 souls. There are 180 houses 
at L. 10 per annum of rent. 

The community are possessed of a court-house and jail, with a • 



202 DUMBARTONSHIUE. 

steeple and bell, to which an excellent school-room for the town and 
parish is attached. The public buildings are under the superinten* 
dence of the magistrates. They were erected here in 1814. There 
was formerly an excellent bell in the steeple, 19 cwt which was 
cracked; the present town's bell with appendages weighs only 14 
cwt 

The total expense of erecting the public buildings, with the 
parish school-room, is as follows : 

Mason work, &c. Carpenter and mason work. 

Court-room, prison-rooms. Staircase without roof, L. SO 19 

and house below, L. 145 Roof of do. . 14 14 

Staircase, . . 93 Court-room, prison-rooms, 

School-room, . 89 and house below, 99 14 

Grating for windows, . 10 School-room, 200 17 9 

L.837 L. 346 4 9 

Prisons. — The total cost, including all of the above items, was 
L. 683, 4s. 9d., from which deduct L. 15, 16s. for old timber and 
slates, and the net sum paid is L. 667, 8s. 9d. 

The prison is very small, and is used for persons confined for 
short periods only, and not at all for debtors. It forms part of the 
town-house, and stands at the cross in the middle of the town. 
There are only two cells, and there is no airing yard attached. 

Means of Communication. — It is to the two distinguished in- 
dividuals formerly alluded to, that the public is chiefly indebted 
for the admirable roads which intersect the parish in all direc- 
tions. Besides the Edinburgh and Glasgow road by Kilsyth, 
which runs through the parish to the north of the town, there are 
the following roads, with their respective lengths in the parish :— 
From Park-burn to Inchbelly, 2 miles; Inchbelly to Shirva, 
Twechar and Auchinvole, 4; Will-head to Gartcloss, &c., 3; 
Oxgang to Bedcow and Mossfinnin bridge about 3 ; Townhead 
to Boghead, 1 ; Gartcommon to Badenheath, 4 ; Deerdyke to 
Shangan, 1 ; = 19 miles. 

The road- money collected is at the rate of L. 2 Sterling on 
every L. 100 of valuation. It is as follows : — Road money for 
landward part of the parish, L. 74, 16s. 6d. ; do for burgh, L. 63; 
horses at 10s. 6d. each, viz. twenty belonging to carters in town, 
L. 10, 10s. =L. 148, 6s. 

The first public railway in Scotland, on the modern improved 

principle, was the " Monkland and Kirkintilloch Railway," which 

connects the rich coal and mineral districts of the Monklands, 

with the Forth and Clyde Canal near Kirkintilloch. The act was 

4 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 203 

obtained in the year 1824, (5 Geo. IV. cap. 49.) The origin- 
al capital was L. 32,000; but, by a new act in 1833, (3 Wm. IV. 
cap. 114,) the total capital was raised to L. 52,000. The north- 
em terminus is at Kirkintilloch, and the south-east at Palace Craig, 
in old Monkland, including a length, in all, of about eleven miles. 
The distance between the rails is 4^ feet. The railway was at 
first laid with rails weighing twenty-eight pounds to the yard, but 
these have been found much too light, and the whole is now in pro- 
cess of being laid with rails weighing forty pounds per yard. No 
passenger waggons are allowed on this railway. It is connected 
with the Ballochney, and Glasgow, and Garnkirk railways in the 
south, and these penetrate into all the great mineral deposits in 
Lanarkshire. Great quantities of coal and iron are transported 
by this railway to the depot in the Forth and Clyde Canal. The 
coal is of very superior quality, and is laid down in the town of 
Kirkintilloch, at the rate of 15s. per waggon of 48 cwt. In 1835, 
about 49,000 tons of coals, and 3325 tons of pig-iron were ship- 
ped on the canal from the railway. 

The Forth and Clyde canal runs for about six miles along the 
northern border of the parish. It was commenced in 1768, by 
virtue of an act, 8 Geo. III. cap. 73, but was not finished till 
1790. The total length from sea to sea is thirty-five miles. The 
highest point at Windford Loch is 156 feet above the level of the 
sea. The average width at the surface is 56 feet, at the bottom 
27 feet, and the depth of water is nearly 10 feet. Vessels of 19 
feet beam, 68 feet keel, and drawing about 10 feet water, can 
pass along the navigation. In its course, the canal passes over 
10 large aqueduct bridges, and 33 smaller ones ; and 33 draw- 
bridges are thrown over the navigation for the crossing of public 
and private roads. In all, there are 39 lochs, each 74 feet long 
between the flood-gates, and 20 feet broad. The canal is s up- 
plied with water by eight reservoirs, covering 721 acres. The ca- 
pital stock of the company in 1820 was L. 519,840 ; the income 
in 1836, was L. 63,743, 16s. 7d. The total original expense was 
L, 345,618, 12s. Allowing eight acres of land to a mile, the 
mere ditch of the navigation in this parish will occupy 48 acres. 
There are seven swift iron-boats on the canal for the conveyance 
of passengers, which travel at the rate of ten miles per hour. The 
following is the number of passengers booked at the drawbridge 
jof Kirkintilloch, near the manse, for the periods specified, in 1837 : 



204 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Mon ths 1837. First week. Second week. Third week. Fourth week. 

April, - - 559-887 - 891 - 467 

May, .. 888-420 -490 -886 

June, . . 463-461 - 486 - 551 

July, - - 481-505 - 598 - 643 

August, - - 472-257 - 579 - 699 

October, - - 826-549 - 889 - 519 

January, . - 604-229 - 323 - 449 

The total number of passengers by the canal passage boats from 
this station alone in seven months is 18,516, or at the rate of 193^ 
per month, and 23,170 per annum. There is also a daily coach 
to Glasgow from the Washington Inn at nine morning. In 1832» 
and for some time before and after, there were five iron steamers 
with the paddle-wheels in the stern plying on the canal. Their 
names, tonnage, and power of engines were as follows : 

Tonnage. Power of Engines. 

Lord Dundas, 40 - 16 

Cyclope, - - 50 - - 16 

Manchester, - 50 - - 35 

Edinburgh, - 40 - - 16 

Union Tug Boat, - 25 - - 12 

These steamers are now discontinued. It was on this same 
sheet of water, in March 1802, that Mr Symington, in a large ves- 
sel with a steam engine of more than twenty horse power, passed over 
a distance of nineteen miles in six hours, the steamer dragging two 
loaded vessels after her, and having Lord Dundas, and Mr Speirs 
of Elderslie on board. It was here also that Mr Symington ini- 
tiated the American Fulton in the mysteries of steam navigation, 
two years before he sailed for America to carry his projects into 
effect. 

Gas^Wbrk, — A gas- work has lately been erected for the purpose 
of supplying the town with gas. The whole is to cost L. 1600 at L. 3 
a share, of which 1000 shares are sold ; L. 2 a share is only re- 
quired. The mason-work cost L.421, the carpenter-work 1^88. 
The roof is of iron. The main stalk is square, and 50 feet high. 
The tanks or cylinders are 28 feet diameter, and 10^ feet from 
the top of the cap to the spring of the foundation. There are 6 
retorts ; the main pipe is 4 inches diameter. 

Ecclesiastical State* — The parish church of Kirkintilloch is 

* The inhabitants of Kirkintilloch, with the neighbouring parishes of Cadder, 
Cumbernauld, and Kilsyth, participated largely in the well-known revival of religion 
which took place at Cambuslang and various other parts in Scotland in 1 742. The first 
appearance of the impressions which were afterwards so largely vouchsafed to many 
individuals in this district, are recorded by Mr Robe, then minister of Kilsyth, and 
also by Mr M*Laren, the minister of this parish. They are so very remarkable that 
they are worthy of being here held up to their ** succeeding race,** where poHHcal re- 
ligion too much predominates over the vital and spiritual godliness which actuated 

3 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 205 

situated in the centre of the town, which, being near to the western 
angle of the parish, is not more than a quarter of a mile distant 
from one extremity, while it is fully five miles distant from the op- 
posite extremity. It is situated conveniently, however, for the 
major part of the population. As already stated, the present pa- 
rish church was formerly the Chapel of the Virgin Mary, and, 
from a stone above one of its windows, it appears to have been 
built in 1644, or about fifteen years before the separation of this 
parish fronr the parish of Cumbernauld. The ruins of the old pa- 
rish church is near to Oxgang, where there is still a burying- 
ground. The present church is in a very miserable state of dis- 
repair. The walls are time-worn and ungainly ; the timbers, in 
general, fragile and insufficient ; the galleries inconvenient and 
crazy, one of them having been lately taken down in case of the 
danger of its coming down at an inconvenient season ; the seating 
is fast crumbling into ruins ; the walls outside filled up with dust 
of former generations to the height of four or five feet from the 
spring of the roofing, and with the walls and flooring, of course, 
intolerably damp. Under these circumstances, the Presbytery of 
Glasgow, some years ago, gave a deliverance enjoining the heri- 
tors to provide the parish with a new parish church ; but a few of 
the heritors objecting, carried the matter to the Court of Session, 
where the decree of the Presbytery was reversed. In this case 
the architect reported, that the existing fabric might be repaired 
so as to be a serviceable church for from twenty-five to thirty-five 
years, at an expense of L.660, while a new church of the same 
size would cost L. 1280. Mr Dunlop, advocate, is of opinion, 
that the same decision would have been given here as in the case 

the faithful in olden rimes. The narrative of the above reverend fathers informs us, 
that, about April 1742, ^< sixteen children or thereby, in the town of Kirkintilloch, 
were observed to meet together in a barn for prayer ; the occasion of which was, that 
one of them said to the rest. What need is there that we should always play ; had we 
not better go and pray ? Wherewith the rest complied. The minister at that time, 
the Rev. Mr Burnside, who was succeeded immediately after by Mr McLaren, as 
soon as be heard of it, carefully inquired after them, and met frequently with them 
for their direction and instruction. And as I am informed, (says Mr Robe), they 
make progress and continue in a hopeful way. This made much noise in the coun- 
try side, and deep impressions both upon young and old.** On Sunday, 20th May 
following, Messrs Robe and McLaren preached at Kirkintilloch. Mr Robe says, 
** There we saw Zion*s mighty King appearing in his glory and majesty, and his 
arrows sharp in the heart of his enemies. Many were awakened there, and brought 
under great spiritual distress.** Some time after we are told, that, in the parish of 
Kirkintilloch, there were known to the minister tp be about 120 under a more than 
ordinary concern about their salvation, including the praying young, who were now 
increased to a greater number than formerly mentioned. Mr Whitefield preached 
about this time both here and at Cumbernauld and Kilsyth. In the latter of theae 
paruhef there were at least dOO awakened, in the parish of Cumbernauld, 14 ot 
15. 



I 



30() DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

of Roskeen, had the architect reported in regard to Kirkintilloch 
church, that, in consequence of raising the level of the floor, which 
was required there as in Roskeen case, it would be necessary to 
heighten the walls, in order to afford proper accommodation to the 
sitters. The architect, however, had omitted all notice of this 
matter in his report ; and when the chargers, on the cause com- 
ing into the Inner- House, proposed to put additional queries to 
him to bring out the facts as to this matter, the Court held them 
foreclosed, by their not having previously objected to the report, 
and refused to allow additional queries to be put. It was on this 
point that the case for the Presbytery was lost ; and the church, 
accordingly, remains in its present ruinous condition.* It contains 
about 800 sittings, and is generally crowded every Sabbath. The 
regular communicants average 700. No free sittings, and only 
a very few pay for their seats. The glebe amounts to 8 acres, 
including the garden. About 6 acres of the glebe were lately let 
for L. 14, 10s. per annum. ^ 

The Report of the Commissioners for Religious Instruction in 
Scotland calculate the teinds as follows : — 

Gross amount of teinds belonging to proprietors: — Meal, 1 boll, 
2 firlots, 1 peck, 2 lippies, at L. 1, 6s. 6d. ; money, L. 904, 5s. total, 
L. 905, lis. 6d. Applied to ministers' stipends and communion- 
elements out of the gross teindS: — Meal, 123 bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck, 
at L. 102, 9s. 4d. ; barley, 121 bolls, 2 firlots, 3 pecks, 2 lippies, 
at L. 133, 4s. 5d.; money, L.26, 7s. 6d. total, L.262, Is. 3d. 

Value of the unappropriated teinds belonging to other persons, 
L.643, 10s. 3d. The church-lands in the parish are, Vicarland 
on the East croft of Kirkintilloch, 2 acres ; Priestland, 2 acres at 
Auchinvole, held anciently of the prebends of Biggar ; Lady-yard, 
half an acre in middle of burgh-holm, held of chaplains of Kirkin- 
tilloch. 

The new church of St David's, upon the Assembly's Church 
Extension plan, was erected in 1837. It is fitted to contain 1012 
sittings, and was erected at the cost of L. 2300. It was opened 
on Sabbath, 8th June 1837, and the present incumbent was in- 
ducted 3d May 1838. St David's is the only church in town 
purely on the voluntary principle. All the rest are more or less 
endowed, as under : 

United Secession, Rev. Andrew Marshall. — House valued at 
L.26, 12s.,' land, L. 4, 7s. 6d. ; feu-duties, lis. 8d. ; total an- 

* Since the above went to press^ the Church has undergone a thorough repair. 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 



207 



side, 



nual endowment, L. 42, 7s. 6d. The stipend is about h. 100 per 
annum. 

Original Burghers, Rev. William Tannahill. — House, L.24; 
land, L9. Total, L. 3a Besides the above, the United Seces- 
Mon congregation have a place named Orchardyard, worth L.2 per 
annum; and the Original Burghers have houses and feus worth 
I*^9s, per annum. The comparative number of Churchmen 
VmI Dissenters is as follows : 

, Districts. 

1- Bsrr, 

^ Shim. 

jEistride, 

^ High Street, north side, 

f Wett High Street, south 

« Hinhesdr 

J» Waterside, 

8, Gartsbore, 

9» Middlemuir, 
10. Cowgate, 
il. Tovnhted, 
12. Omitted in Townhead, 
IS. GallowhiU, 
i4. Cordskt, Bellfidd, &c. 

3583 1^4 903 "^ 

The proportion belonging to the Established Church is 610, 
more than the half of the whole population ; the proportion be- 
longing to the United Secession is 305 less than the fourth; 
those belonging to the Original Burghers are scarcely a sixth, and 
those belonging to the Methodists are only about one-seventeenth. 
The following is the state of church accommodation in the above 
districts, the names of which will be ascertained by the corre- 
sponding 6gure8, as above : — 



Estab. Ch. 


United Sec. 


Old Burg. 


Dtfeth 


239 


21 


24 


29 


164 


12 


19 


, , 


328 


108 


98 


1 


371 


125 


82 


13 


86 


27 


23 


10 


349 


209 


74 


2 


225 


8 


114 


, 


190 


35 


38 


«• 


64 


4 


24 


.^ 


682 


900 


169 


18 


717 


242 


213 


12 


11 


... 


3 


M. 


111 


..M 


5 


_^ 


46 


43 


17 


.MM 



Districts. 


Seats taken. 


Proprietors. 


CommunicantA 


1. 


82 


49 


78 


2. 


7 


8 


52 


a 


70 


10 


102 


4. 


75 


4 


84 


5. 


15 


46 


22 


6. 


110 


40 


127 


7, 


28 


41 


77 


a 


23 


18 


76 


9. 


6 


38 


18 


10. 


214 


54 


154 


11. 


151 


i.. 


234 


12. 


1 


4 


1 


la 


3 


.» 


27 


14. 


10 


•^ 


11 



765 342 1055 

The parish has lately been divided, quoad spiritualiaj into the 
parish of St David's and the old parish of Kirkintilloch. The 



208 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

boundaries of the new parish are as follows : From the bridge 
leading from Campsie on the north, along the coal-road, and then 
up the High Street to the Cross ; thence along the Cowgate and 
down the Broadcroft to the river Luggie, and by it to the canal ; 
then across the canal by the Hillhead-bridge, onward by the 
Longmuir road to the Twechar road; then up the Bord-burn 
and onward to the Moss*water ; it is then bounded on the east 
and north by the parishes of Cumbernauld, Kilsyth, and Camp- 
sie. It contains a population of about 2700 souls; a number suf- 
ficient for the strongest man's superintendence. 

Education. — The instruction at the parochial school consists 
of English, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, mathematics, geo- 
graphy, Latin, Greek, and French. The present very able and 
efficient teacher is the Rev. Andrew Love, a licentiate of the 
Church of Scotland. The salary is L. 34, 4s. 4^. paid by 144 
heritors. The average wages may be about L. 30 ; other emolu- 
ments about L. 4. The Rev. Mr Love informs me, that his ave- 
rage number of scholars, summer and winter, falls little short of 124. 
There is also a subscription school, taught by Mr Hendry, and 
anotherwitharemarkablyelegantfabricatGartshore, taught by Rev. 
Mr Donald, which is upon a charitable foundation, and was erected 
by the munificence of a lady of the family of Gartshore. There 
are, in all, nine schools in the parish, one parochial school, as above, 
two endowed schools, and the rest unendowed. In 1833, the num- 
bers and ages of those attending school were as follows : numbers 
of children taught to read under five years of age, 2 ; five to fifteen, 
years of age, 480 ; to write, from five to fifteen years of age ; 199 
children at parochial school, from Lady-Day to Michaelmas, 
124 ; children at schools not parochial, from Lady- Day to Michael- 
mas, 522 ; from Michaelmas to Lady- Day, 545. 

The number of children under twelve years of age attending 
school in the various districts of the parish in 1837, according to 
the Church Commission Returns is, Barr, 321; Shirva, 11; 
High Street, north side, 53 ; West High Street, south side, 
19; Hillhead, 49; Waterside, 31; Gartshore, 28; Middle- 
muir, 11; Cowgate, 102; Townhead, 109; omitted in Town- 
head,2; Gallowhills,8; Cordalet, Bellfield,&c. 18, total 472. The 
total number of scholars, as far as can beascertained, may be in all 669, 
of whom 472 are under twelve years of age, which is at the rate of 
9} J S ths of the whole population. Children twelve years of age and up- 



KIRKINTILLOCH. 209 

wardsformabouthalfthe population, which inthisparish willbed078» 
— ^those under twelve, and of course not reaching that age, will be 
about 2500 ; of these 472 are attending school, which is about a- 
third of the number, or one-thirteenth of the whole population. 

There are two libraries, namely, a parish library and a subscrip- 
tion library. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The Gartshore mortification in fa- 
Tour of orphan children was originally about L. 1100. Each or- 
phan is allowed a firlot of oatmeal at a time, or one boll annually. 
The sum received by each is in no case to be less than L. 1, or 
more than L. 5 per annum. Some get Is. 8d. per week in money. 
The oatmeal in December 1836 was 5s. lOd. per firlot ; in July 
1837, it was 5s. 2jd. ; in December of the same year, 4s., and in 
June 1838, it was 4s. 4d. per firlot There were lately 23 or- 
phans on the charity, 1 2 of whom were boys. The following was the 
state of accounts in 1836 and 1837: Receipts 1836, received 
from Miss Galloway, L. 9, I3s. 4d. ; lifted from Ship Bank, 
Li. 10 ; lifted all the money from Ship Bank, L. 20 ; interest on 
above sums, L. 3, 13s. 4d. ; total L. 43, 6s. 8cl. Receipts for 
1837, received from Mr Gordon, factor at Gartsliore, L. 35. 

Some time ago, L. 1000 Sterling was left by John Adam, Esq. 
London, the interest of which is to be devoted exclusively to the sup- 
port of the poorest of the poor, or part may go for the education of the 
sanae class. The trustees are the heritors and kirk session. The 
sum has not yet been realized, but the principal, with interest when 
it arrives, will amount to a considerable capital. In 1837, there 
was collected for coals at the parish church, L. 9, 16s. ; at St 
David's, L. 5, Os. 6d. ; from Mr Calder, 10s. ; total, L. 15, 63. 6d. 
Paid at Glen Collieries, L. 12, 16s.; Cowgate toll, 13 carts, 2s. 
6d. ; tolls, lis. ; horse, 16s. ; total, L. 14, 5s. 6d. 

An assessment for the poor was only imposed in 1831. It 
amounts to twopence per pound : 

1835. 1836. 1837. 



Paupen on permanent roll, 39 39 41 

Persons not on permanent roll, . 130 134 123 

Funds. 

1835. 1836. 1837. 



Amount of assessment for ^^ jg g L.98 14 9 L. 100 
support of poor, 

The average number of poor is 168, and the average amount of 
assessment, L.98, 10s. 4d. 

DUMBARTON. O 



210 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

1835. J 836. 1837. 



The actual amount of free) 
funds distributed among i L. 145 12 L. 146 14 5 L. 151 7 2 
paupers on permanent roll, j 

Total annual amount of funds distributed, L. 17^, 17s. 8d. 
The highest rate of relief is L. 5, 4s. ; the lowest, L. 1, 6s. per 
annum. 

Before the litigation about the parish church before alluded 
to, the weekly collections at the church door were on an stverage 
L.1, 10s. per week, or L. 62 per annum. On the heritors, who 
were the chief profilers from these collections, refusing the people 
who paid them, proper church accommodation, the church door 
collections fell off to 12s. per week, or L. 89 per annum, which 
is a diminution of 18s. per week, which has ended in a permanent 
poor's rate, and a new church must follow in due time to the 
boot Such are the unhappy consequences of mutual misunder- 
standings. 

The pensioners in the session 1st August 1837, were 41 in all, 
27 of whom were females, and 7 widows. The rates per week 
were 1 at 6». ; 1 at 2s. 6d. ; 1 at Is. 8d. ; 3 at 2s, ; 7 at Is. 6d. ; 
19 at Is. ; 7 at'6d. &c The weekly sum paid was L.2, 9s. 2d. 
The effects of a poor stent may here be watched with great ad- 
vantage ; and it is desirable that some 6ne would take the trouble 
of making the results known to the public. 

Fairsy 8fc, — There are three fairs held annually in the burgh, 
chiefly for the sale of cattle, namely, on 2d Tuesday of May, the last 
Thursday of July, and the 21st of October. The market-day is on 
Saturday, but is not much observed. The lintseed Saturdays were 
formerly great marts for the sale of the commodity, from whence 
they derived their names ; but flax is not now so much cultivated 
as formerly, and these markets have accordingly declined with the 
cause which produced them. 

The revenue from the post-office is about L, 230 per annum, 
but is much less since the Campsie post was withdrawn. Letters 
from Glasgow arrive by a mail gig every morning at six o'clock, 
and are dispatched at eight o'clock. Letters arrive from Falkirk 
at eight o'clock, and leave at six o'clock. There is a receiving- house 
in Cowgate, which closes at half-past seven. 

Inns and Alehouses. — There are about 40 inns and alehouses 
in the parish. These are too frequently viewed as the causes of 
the corruption of morals among the lower orders, whereas they are 
only the effects. 



KILMARONOCK. 211 

The town of Kirkintilloch lies 49 miles west of Edinburgh, 20 
south-west of Stirling, 16 east of Dumbarton, 7 north of Glasgow, 
5 south-west of Kilsyth^ and 8 south-east of Campsie. The pa- 
rish is destined to receive an additional advantage from the Edin- 
burgh and Glasgow Railway, which is to pass throughout its whole 
length. It begins in the west near Pinkerton-hill, runs north by 
Coulstone, Bishopriggs, Corshill, Miremailing, Gladdens, Cadder- 
moss, Lochside distillery, and Mountain-moss, and enters Kirkin- 
tilloch passing Garngebber, near which it crosses the Monkland 
and Kirkintilloch railway, passes on by Wamflat, crosses Luggie 
water west of Drumbreck, and runs on by Mosside, Drumgrew, 
and Basterboard, where it leaves the parish, and enters Cumber- 
nauld* 

June 1839. 



PARISH OF KILMARONOCK. 

PRKSBTTBRY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. W. B. S. PATERSON, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The name evidently signiBes the cell, chapel, or bury- 

ing-place of St Marnoch. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The south part of the parish of Kil- 
maronock is situated at 56** of north latitude, and 4*^ 30' of west 
longitude. If reduced to the form of a parallelogram, it would 
measure about 5 miles in length, by 8 in breadth ; and, conse- 
quently, its contents are about 15 square miles. It is bounded on 
the north and east, by the River Endrick ; on the south-east, by 
part of Finnich Glen and Drymen parish ; at the south point, by 
Dumbarton parish ; on the south-west, by Bonhill parish ; and on 
the north-west, by Lochlomond. 

Topographical Appearances, — The parish is adorned with a great 
variety of wood, both natural and planted, hedge-row and detached 
trees, chiefly oak, beech, ash, and larch ; and it is watered by several 
springs, rivulets, and the River Endrick. The land of the parish is 
mostly arable, there being but little of it hilly or moorland, for the 

* Drawn up by Mr Peter Bain, Parochial Schoolmaster of Kilmaronork. 



212 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

pasture of sbeep and cattle. The three most elevated parts of its 
surf&ce vary between 500 and 1000 feet above the level of the seai 
which are the highest part of the little range of hills on the west, 
commonly called Mount Misery, Duncryne or Duncruin, in the cen- 
tre, and the elevation towards Dumbarton moor on the south. The 
western range beginsat Balloch, in Bonhill, on the south, and extends 
northward to Ross along the south-east shore of Lochlomond ; and 
is, at the highest part, about 900 feet in elevation. The part on 
the north end, which belongs to Mrs Macdonald Buchanan, is 
mostly planted with larch, oak, &c, but the rest is unplanted. 
From the summit of Mount Misery, there is to be had an exten- 
sive and splendid view. Toward the south, are to be seen the 
vale of Leven, with the numerous public works along its classic 
stream, the town and castle of Dumbarton, and part of Clyde and 
Renfrewshire; on the west, in the distance, the lofty hills of 
Cowal, in Argyleshire, rising beyond those of Cardross, Row, 
and Roseneath ; and the extensive and apparently continuous 
range along the west side of Lochlomond, in Luss and Arrochar, 
crowned at the north end by the lofty Benlomond, and in the 
same direction the intervening lake, interspersed with its many 
wooded islands ; on the north-east, Benledi in Perthshire ; and 
closer at hand, the hills of Buchanan, with the river Endrick 
intervening, and meandering through the plain along the wOods 
and pleasure grounds around Buchanan House ; and on the east, 
and toward the south, the greater part of Strathendrick, with the 
Ochill, Fintry, Killearu, Strathblane, Campsie, and Kilpatrick 
hills, along the horizon. The hill which I would next no- 
tice is Duncryne. Its original orthography was Duncruin, being 
composed of dun^ signifying bill, and cruirij round ; and it was pro- 
bably thus named from its round or conical shape. It stands in 
the very centre of the parish, and is a conspicuous, beautiful, and 
rather a fantastic object. It rises rapidly from the plain on the 
west and north sides, to the height of about 450 feet, and, on the 
south-east, it is only about 250 feet high, whence there is a gradual 
descent to the plain extending for about a quarter of a mile. The 
area of the base on which it stands seems to contain about two 
acres, from which it gradually tapers to the summit, till it contains 
only about two roods of surface, which is pretty level. The 
ascent is rendered easy by means of a pathway approaching the 
hill from the north-west, and winding along the north, east, 
and south, till it reaches the top, on the we5t. It is most* 



RILMARONOCK. 213 

ly all eoTered with soil, and the bare rock appears only in -t' 
Yery few places. It is now the property of the Duke of Mon- 
trose, and is covered with young oak, larches, &c« having been 
planted a few years ago by the late Duke. The body of the 
hill seems to be chiefly composed of a kind of trap rock, which is 
rendered softish by exposure to the action of the atmosphere ; 
while, in the rest of the parish, with the exception of some trap 
dikes (running from south-west to north-east,) and limestone,* 
ihe rock is composed of a red or grey sandstone of a very 
solid and compacted grain. From the top of this hill, there 
is also a very fine view to be had of almost the whole parish, 
and all the objects seen from Mount Misery, with a very few 
exceptions. The third elevation that remains to be noticed, is 
that toward Dumbarton moor. This rises to a height considera- 
bly greater than any of the other two. Some good limestone has 
been found in this moor ; and there is also a cascade of conside- 
rable size and beauty in the glen which runs northward through 
the fiutn of Gallengad. This moor has been rendered notorious 
for some time by means of a dispute which arose between the ma- 
gistrates of the burgh of Dumbarton, and some proprietors in Kil- 
maronock, respecting the marches between their properties. The 
matter was litigated for about seventy years, and various decisions 
were given with regard to it in courts of law'; but it was lately 
brought to a final decision by Mr Alison, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, 
to whom the matter was referred, and to whose judgment all par- 
ties agreed to submit. In the hollow part which lies between this 
moor and Duncryne Hill, there are a few farms containing pref ty 
good land ; but the greater part is of inferior quality. There is 
also in it a large extent of peat-moss stretching from south-west 
to north-east, and containing nearly 100 acres. This is so soft 
and deep, that a great part of it has been hitherto considered unfit 
for cultivation. 

Hydrography. — From Drymen Bridge to where the river En- 
drick runs into Lochlomond, the distance is scarcely four miles in 
a straight line ; but by following its numerous windings, the dis- 
tance is nearly doubled. It thus flows sluggishly along its mazy 
course, there being only about ten feet of rise from the level of 
Lochlomond, when the lake is at its ordinary height, to about 100 
yards below Drymen Bridge. It is navigable at times for scows or 
other flat-bottomed craft;, for all this distance : and coals are thus 
conveyed up, and wood or other commodities down the river, and 



214 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

bence to Leven and other distant markets. At its junction with 
the lake it is often about two feet deep in su^-nmer, and for about 
two miles next the lake, the average breadth is about 80 feet, and 
the depth usually 10, butfarther up it is rather narrower and shallower. 
The principal kinds of fishes to be found in this part of the river 
are, the pike, perch, braize, eel, and some trout toward Drymen 
bridge. A large extent of deep and excellent land, but in gene- 
ral only a few feet in elevation above the level of the lake, lies on 
each side of the river; and hence, crops are often injured or car- 
ried off by being overflowed with water ; and in some parts it is 
useful only for meadow hay or pasture- Sometimes in winter, in- 
deed, when the lake is at its greatest height, and the river is much 
swollen by heavy rains and the melting of snows, this plain to the 
extent of some hundreds of acres, would have all the appearance 
of an extensive lake, were it not for some trees standing up from 
the water. The better part of the land in the parish seems to 
lie along the Endrick, and from Ross southward to the boundary 
at Blairnyle. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land-owners, — The chief land-owners are the following : The 

Duke of Montrose, principal heritor in point of valuation, or valued 
rent ; Mrs Macdonald Buchanan of Ross and Drmnmakill ; John 
Buchanan, Esq. of Ardoch ; R. D. Mackenzie, Esq. of Caldar- 
van ; and Robert Macgoune, Esq. of Mains. 

Parochial Registers, — These consist of registers of baptisms, pro- 
clamations or marriages, minutes of kirk-session, and accounts of 
poor's money. The oldest book is a collection of detached leaves, 
perhaps fragments of several old books, which are now kept within 
two old boards, and contain entries of all matters connected with 
the management of the parish. The earliest date I have disco- 
vered in it is 4th April 1647. The next in point of antiquity is a 
book containing minutes of session, unsigned by the moderator or 
clerk, the first date of which is 20th January 1710, and the last 
11th December 1771. No book for minutes of session has been 
kept from that date till *23d February 1834, the date of the ear- 
liest entry in the new minute book. The only minutes that have 
been kept during all that interval, and preserved till this time, are 
written on a few loose leaves : they do not exceed five in number, 
and are unsigned. The next in order is a register of baptisms, com- 
mencing 4th August 1731, which, with two other books, contains a 
continuous register of baptisms down to the present date. The 



KILMARONOCK. 215 

entries in these books are not always made according to the exact 
order of their date, and many children in the parish have not been 
registered at all. They cannot, therefore, be said to be regular- 
ly kept The only book containing a register of proclamations or 
marriages, and preserved to the present time, has for its first date 
15th November 1755, and contains a regular and continuous re* 
gister to the present date. These, together with a book and some 
loose papers, containing accounts of money transactions relative 
to the poor's fund, form the entire records of church matters in 
the parish. 

Modem BuUdingt.^^The modern buildings in the parish of any 
consequence are the following : I. Baturrich Castle, belonging to 
John Buchanan, Esq. of Ardoch, which was completed about five 
years ago. It is built on part of the ruin of the ancient castle of 
Baturrich, on the rising ground about half a mile from Loch Lo- 
mood, near the western corner of the parish ; and from it, there is 
a very fine view of the lake, beautifully studded as it is with its 
numerous wooded islands, and also of the whole vale of Leven to 
the river Clyde ; 2. Ross Priory, to which a considerable addition 
was made about thirty years ago, by the late Hector Macdonald 
Buchanan, Esq. and which is now the residence of Mrs Macdonald 
Buchanan. It is also beautifully situated on the south-east bank 
of Loch Lomond, at about two miles distance northward from Ba- 
turrich Castle, and surrounded by a lawn but little elevated above 
the level of the lake, and finely interspersed with a variety of trees, 
some of which are old and of great size and beauty. The house 
faces the north-east, and an avenue of about three-quarters of a 
mile in length leads to it in a straight line ^from the south-east, 
shaded on each side by a row of fine tall oaks, beeches, &c. ; 3. 
Catter House, though not a modern building, I may here mention, 
as it is an admirable old mansion-house, and it is now the resi- 
dence of Stewart Jolly, Esq. factor to the Duke of Montrose. It 
is finely situated on an eminence near Drymen Bridge, on the 
river Endrick, and faces the north. From it there is a splendid 
view of the lawn and woods around Buchanan House, belonging 
to the Duke of Montrose, and westward across Loch Lomond 
along the numerous windings of the slowly flowing Endrick. 

There are two churches in the parish, viz. the parish church, 
which was built in 1813, and the Reliefmeeting-house, built about 
1774. There are three meal mills in the parish ; Catter mill, 
Mavie mill, and Aber mill. There are no manufactories. 



216 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

HI. — Population. 

^' Amount ofpopulation in 1801, 879 

1811, . 898 

1821, 1008 

1881, . 999 

The population at present, as ascertained by the minister in visiting the 

parishioners, amounts to 950 

Number of fkmiUes in the parish in 1891, 175 

chiefly employed in agriculture, 80 

trade, manufactures or handicraft, 27 

The number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last 

three years is I. 

IV. — ;Industry. 
AgricaltuT€n — There are in the whole parish about 660 imperial 
acres under wood, besides a great many detached trees in hedge- 
rows, fences, and elsewhere ; of which the following is a statement : 

On the lands of the Duke of Montrose, all planted by the l.ite Duke, : 180 acres. 
On those of Mrs Macdonald, including the wooded islands of Craeinch and 
Torrinch, Lochlomond, ...... 280 

On those of John Buchanan, Esq. of A rdoch, . . . 200 

On those of R. D. Mackenzie, Esq. of Caldarvan, . . 40 

On those of the other proprietors, . . . . .10 

Imperial acres in all, 660 

The average rent of land is 1 8s. per acre. 

The moorland part of the parish grazes only about 500 sheep, 
which are of the black-faced or Highland breed, and a few cattle of 
the Argyleshire breed. A few sheep of the Cheviot or Leicester sort 
are sometimes kept in low parks. The cattle on the low grounds 
are of the Ayrshire breed. Considerable attention has been paid 
of late to the improvement of all these sorts of cattle. 

Part of the lands, being the inferior sort, is kept in cultivation 
by being four years under pasture, and two under oats; but the bet- 
ter part of the land is cultivated by a six years^ course of crops and 
pasture ; thus, 1^/, green crop ; 2(/, grain crop ; d(/, hay ; Ath 
and bth^ pasture ; and 6/^, oats. Considerable attention has been 
paid, of late years, to the improvement of inferior or waste lands, in 
some parts of the parish, by the new modes of draining, &c. ; but a 
considerable part, perhaps more than a third part of the arable land, 
is incapable of a high state of improvement under ordinary tenants, 
either on account of the shallowness or peculiar qualities of the 
soils ; from rocks, chiefly of sandstone, want of proper declivity, or 
other obstacles to thorough draining ; or from the difficulties there 
are in driving manure and other commodities from and to distant 
parts and markets, owing to the bad roads through the parish, 
which are kept so chiefly from the want of proper metal or materials 



KILMARONOCK* 217 

ivithiD any ordinary distance for repairing them* Yet, in spile of 
all these difficulties and hindrances, a spirit of industry and enter- 
prise, now observable among a great proportion of the agricultu- 
rists, is leading them on to many useful improvements. 

V. — Parochiax EcoNOMy. 

There is no village in the parish : there are not even four dwel- 
ling-bouses in it closely contiguous. 

Means of ComTnunication, — Neither is there a post-office; but 
the penny-podt from Dumbarton to Dry men passes daily through 
the parish. The Dumbarton and Drymen turnpike-road passes 
through it from south-west to north-east for six miles ; and the 
Drymen and Glasgow road passes through the east end of it for 
about one mile. A public coach travels from Drymen to Glasgow, 
and returns in the evenings on Wednesdays and Saturdays in 
winter, and on Mondays additional in summer, and there are two 
carriers, one from Buchanan, and another from Drymen, who pass 
through this parish once a-week on their way to Glasgow on Tues- 
days, and return on the Wednesday. 

The only bridge worth mentioning is that across Endrick, the 
boundary of the parish, on the road to Drymen, which is an old 
one containing four arches. The fences are generally thorn hedges 
or stone dikes. The hedges in inferior soils are generally bad 
and insufficient for fences, and require to be frequently repaired 
with other materials ; but in the better soils there are some good 
thorn fences. The stone dikes are, in some places, new and good, 
but in others old and in a falling state, and insufficient for fences. 
I think that I may state generally, that their condition is somewhat 
worse than in most neighbouring parishes. There are no canals, 
railroads, or harbours. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated almost at 
the northern extremity of the parish, and is not convenient for 
the greater part of the population, as its distance from the eastern 
extremity is two miles, from the western by the roads six miles, 
and from the southern, five miles. The church was built in the 
year 1813^ and is at present in a very good state of repair. There 
is no benefection on record except one from Mr Maurice Car- 
michael, of Bromley, to the poor of the parish, amounting to L. 50 
Sterling, and made by him in the year 1790. The church affords 
accommodation for 400 sitters. The sittings were divided among 
the heritors, as is usual in all parish churches in the country, and 
they are occupied by their respective tenantry and others, free of 



218 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

expense. The communion table seats, containing 40 sittings, are 
free to any who may choose to occupy them. The manse was 
built in 1804. It has since undergone some trifling repairs at 
diflerent times ; and it is now, on the whole, in a good state of re- 
pair. 

The glebe consists of 7 imperial acres, and may be worth L. 1 
per acre of yearly rent. 

The stipend consists of 96 bolls meal ; 64 bolls barley ; and 
L. 43, 10s. lOd., which includes L. 8, 6s. 8d. allowed for commu- 
nion elements. There is, as before said, a church belonging to 
the Relief body, to which I believe there are 20 acres of land at- 
tached, which, with collections and seat-rents, make up the minis- 
ter's stipend. 

There are 60 families, and 240 persons of all ages attending the 
parish church. There are about 100 families, and 400 persons of 
all ages atteading the Relief meeting-house in the parish, and 
other Dissenting places of worship out of it. The parish church 
is, on the whole, well attended, and, so far as I can learn, the Dis- 
senting one also. 

It will be observed from the above statements that the number 
of Dissenters in the parish considerably exceeds the number of 
churchmen. And it is perhaps proper here, to state, that this was 
caused about sixty- five years ago, by an unfortunate difference 
arising between Lord Stonefield, who was patron at that time, and 
the people, regarding the settlement of a minister ; when the 
people taking offence, left the Established Church, and built for 
themselves a meeting-house in connection with the Relief body, 
to which the greater number adhered ; while others went to Dis- 
senting chapels in other parishes. And owing to that unhappy 
disagreement, and perhaps to the Dissenting chapels being more 
conveniently situated for the bulk of the parishioners, the greater 
part still continue Dissenters, though after the lapse of sixty-five 
years, and the ministry of two incumbents in the parish church. 
It is right, however, here to state, that a disposition to return to 
the church has lately shown itself among some Dissenters, and 
that the number of churchmen has been for some time increasing. 
As a proof of the correctness of this statement, I may mention, 
that, in 1835, the roll of male heads of families communicants 
contained 41 names, whereas in 1838, it contained 51, which 
shows an increase of 10 names in three years. 

There are about \5fi communicants in the Established Church. 



KILMARONOCK. 219 

The amount of yearly collections for the poor averages about 
L. 26, and about L. 7, 10s. for religious and charitable objects. 

EducaiiofL — There are three schools, one parochial school, no 
endowed schools, except the parochial one, and two unendowed 
schools. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 31 per year, 
and the school-fees amount to about L. 25. The amount of school- 
fees to each of the other two teachers may be somewhere between 
L. 10 and L. 15. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are 10 paupers constantly 
on the roll, who receive the average sum of I6s. each per quarter, 
or L. 3, 4s. per year ; and besides these, there are several fami- 
lies who, though not upon the roll, receive occasional relief. The 
collections in the church, as formerly stated, amount to L. 26 
yearly, and the mortcloth and proclamation dues to L. 4 ; which, 
together with the interest at four per cent, arising from the sum 
of L. 300, lent on bill from the poor's fund, and the interest from 
L. 40, deiK>sited in bank, amount to about L. 43. No disposition 
to consider it degrading to seek parochial relief is shown, except 
in rare cases. In this parish, as in most others in Scotland, that 
spirit seems to be fast wearing out. 

Library. — A parish library, got up by means of subscriptions 
and donations of books from heritors and others, was instituted in 
this pariah in June 1838, and is kept in the parish school, the 
schoolmaster being librarian. It is under the management of the 
kirk-session, and now contains 160 volumes. 

Fairs. — There are two fairs held within the parish, one for 
horses at Craftammie, on the second Tuesday of February ; and 
another, chiefly for milk cows,' at the fiirm of Ardoch, on the last 
Thursday of ApriL 

Alehouses. — There are eight taverns or alehouses, whose injuri- 
ous eflFects on the morals of the people appear in some instances, 
though not to any considerable extent. 

Puei, — Fuel consists chiefly of peats and coals. Peats are cut 
from some mosses within the parish, and sold rft the rate of 3s. for 
an ordinary cart. Coals are carted from Garscube, Kilpatrick, or 
certain places on the river Leven, and the price has varied for 
some years between 9d. and Is. per cwt., including cartage and all 
other expenses. 

July 1839. 



PARISH OF BONHILL. 

TBEBBYTBRY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. WILLIAM GREGOR, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, — Chalmers supposes that the name of this parish is a 
corruption of the Gaelic word Bogh rC ui% signifying foot of the 
rivulet. The oldest spelling is Buchnull, which occurs in the 
fourteenth centurj'. Afterwards, it was long spelled Bulhill, and 
subsequently Bunnull. 

This parish was enlarged in 1650, by the annexation of TuUif- 
ebewen, Stockragent, Cameron, and Aucheiidennan, from the 
parish of Luss ; and of Balloch, Milton, Blairquhois (now Wes- 
terton), Ballagan, and Ledrestbeg, from the parish of Kilmaro- 
nock. The annexation was effected by the Commissioners for the 
Plantation of Kirks, at the desire of the heritors and the presbytery. 
Before this event, there had been only 120 communicants in the 
parish. 

Boundaries^ Extent^ S^c. — Bonhill is bounded on the north and 
north*east by the parish of Kilmaronock and Loch Lomond ; on 
the east, by the parish of Dumbarton ; on the south and south- 
west, by the parish of Cardross ; and on the west by Luss. It 
is 4^ miles in length, and 4 in breadth, forming nearly a square. 

Hydrography. — The river Leven issues from Loch Lomond at 
Balloch, and falls into the Frith of Clyde at Dumbarton Castle^ 
after a course of about nine miles in length. The tide comes up 
the river more than a third part of its length, and the stream is 
navigable in its whole extent It produces excellent salmon, and 
a variety of other fish. 

Remarkable A&h Tree. — This large tree stands in the church- 
yard, and has been long regarded as one of the most remarkable 
of the species in this country. In the year 1768 it was measured 
by Mr Beevof, who found it to be 16 feet 9 inches in circumfe- 

* Drawn up from notes furnished by a residenter in the parish. 



BOMllLL. 221 

renc6 at the height of 5 feet. Id September 1 784, according to 
Dr Walker, it measured 17 feet 9 inches ; but at the height of 
one foot above ground, it was found to be no less than 33 feet in 
girth. At the height of six teet the trunk divides into three great 
arms. In the Agricultural Survey of Dumbartonshire, published 
in 1811, the circumference of the trunk where smallest is said to 
be upwards of 1 8 feet This venerable tree is going rapidly to 
decay. The trunk is hollow, and the branches, though clasped, 
may soon be expected to give way. It still, notwithstanding, an- 
nually produces luxuriant foliage. 

Another remarkable ash-tree, of even greater dimensions, is 
also to be seen in this neighbourhood. It is thus described in the 
edition of Gilpin's Forest Scenery by Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, 
publisfaed in 1834:/^ Near the house of Bonhill, in Dumbar- 
tonshire, there is a very ancient and remarkable ash. This tree 
has been surrounded by a sloping bank of earth to the height of 
about three feet. A little above this artificial bank, or about four 
feet above the natural surface, it measured 34 feet 1 inch ; at tlie 
height of four feet above this baiik, it measured 21 feet 3 inches, 
and at the height of twelve feet from the ground, immediately under 
the three great arfns into which it divides, 22 feet 9 inches. At 
the junction of these arms, the leading trunk had, above a century 
ago, been broken, and in consequence of which the . tree has be^ 
come hollowed. One of these arms measured 10 feet 4 inches, 
another 1 1 feet, and the third 12 feet in girth, and yet they seem 
not to have been original branches, but only pollards formed after 
the trunk was broken over. Many years ago, the tree being hol- 
lowed and opened on one side, the opening was formed into a door, 
and the other part of the tree scooped out. In this way a small 
room, 9 feet 1 inch in diameter, was formed within the trunk. Its 
roof is conical, and 1 1 feet high. It is floored and sitrrounded 
with an hexagonal bench, on which eighteen people can sit, with a 
table in the middle ; and above the door there are five small leaden 
windows. Though the tree has decayed in the heart, it has con- 
tinued to live in the bark, and to form a great arch of new wood. 
The whole trunk, which is a vast mass, is thickly covered with 
fresh vigorous branches." — Vol. i. p. 264, 265. 

II. — Civil History. 
The whole lands in the parish formerly belonged to the family 

of Lennox ; but in the fifteenth century the Darnley family by 

marriage got one-half of the estate and the titles. The other 



A 



'222 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

half was afterwards divided between the families of Napier and 
Gleneagles. Darleith was the property of the Darleiths, who are 
said by tradition to have been hereditary followers to the Earls of 
Lennox. The family having gone to decay, the estate was pur- 
chased by Mr John Zuil, writer in Inverary, whose attachment to 
the Covenant, and sufferings in its cause, are commemorated by 
Wodrow. 

Antiquities. — There are very few remains of antiquity of any 
interest in this parish. At Auchenheglish, on the lands of Auch* 
indenanrie (now Belretiro), was an old burying-ground, which was 
used within the last century. It probably belonged to a place of 
worship which gave name to the field, and the ruins of which are 
still pointed out when the lake is low, at a short distance from the 
shore, having been overflowed by the gradual encroachment of 
the water. 

A correspondent writes, that he *' should be inclined to doubt 
the existence of a church or any place of worship on the .island 
or rather the ^hore off the point of Auchenheglish. In the 
dry summers of 1825 and 1826, the alleged site was examin- 
ed with great minuteness, the lake being very low at the time, 
and aconsiderable part of the shore being uncovered ; but we 
could not discover the slightest vestiges of any building or any 
thing in the shape of foundation stone or wrought mason work 
of any description. The church or chapel, it may be remarked, 
stood on the high bank, immediately north of the Scotch and 
silver fir trees on the side of the road, where it quits the shore of 
the lake at what is called Auchenheglish brae, where I am told 
that one grave-stone is to be seen, and the appearance of the foun- 
dations of a building. A cross or other similar erection may have 
been placed on what was probably, in former times, a low green 
island, ^ch as the Aberetle is now; but which is. now merely a 
shoal composed of large stones rounded by the attrition of the 
water, few or none being of any size. The gradual rise of the 
waters of the lake is quite undeniable. Witness the trees along 
the lower side of the road through the Belretiro property. 

** There is a collection of ancient tumuli on the high lands of 

Soromer, on the edge of the moor, which has of late years been 

planted with birch and Scotch firs ; the graves, of which there 

may be from twenty to twenty-five, within an oblong of 200 feet 

by 60, are of the usual description, fenced by rude and undressed 

stones. The covers have been mostly removed or destroyed. Some 

3 



UOMIILL. 223 

forty or forty-five years ago, I have been told that an investigation 
of these having been made by my uncle, Mr James Smollett, 
bones and stone arrow-heads were discovered in them ; but I have 
never seen any of these." 

The castle of Belach (or Balloch) was the early seat of the 
Lennox family, and their charters are often dated from thence in 
the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, before they resided at 
Inchmurrain. The site is still marked by the fosse, but no re- 
mains of building have been seen in our time. See as to this a 
note to the novel of the Spaewife by Gait. The only other fa- 
mily of note who anciently resided in this parish were the Lind- 
says of BonhilL Their ancestors were knights in the reign of 
David IL, and acquired their estate by grant from their relation, 
the Earl of Lennox, by whom they were also appointed foresters 
and tosheagers of the earldom. The male line failed soon after 
the Restoration, and the estate passed to Sir James Smollett, 
Provpst, and representative of Dumbarton in Parliament, and af- 
terwards a commissioner of the Union. 

III. — Population. 
The population of Bonhill has rapidly increased since the esta- 
blishment of the bleachfields and printfields, which now form its 
chief trade and industry. In 1 755, from the returns made to Dr 
Webster, the population was 901 ; and in 1791, from a list of the 
inhabitants made up to 1st January in that year, the population 
amounted to 2310, of whom 562 were under ten years of age. 

By Uie Government census of 1801, the population was 2460 



1811, 


2791 


1821, 


3003 


1831, 


8874 


of families in the parish in 1831, 


780 


chiefly employed in agriculture, 


172 


handicraft, 


558 



IV. — Industry. 

The valued rent of the parish is L.2180, 9s. 2d. 

Agriculture* — The lands in this parish, as may readily be con- 
ceived from the large manufacturing population, are all cultivated 
according to the most improved methods. Furrow-draining has 
been adopted to some extent, and with the usual good effects. The 
subsoil plough has been but partially used, but in instances where 
it has been tried it has doubled the value of the land. 

Horses, §*c. — The horses generally used for agricultural purposes 
are the Clydesdale breed. The cows are chiefly of the Ayrshire 



2*24 DUMBARTONSNIUK. 

variety, and considered to be excellent for the purposes of the 
dairy. 

The first printfield on the Leven was begun about the year 
1768. At first the printing was almost entirely confined to hand- 
kerchiefs, and done by what was termed block-printing. Copper- 
plate presses were erected, and posterior to these, presses to be 
driven by water. Long before this time, (1728, 1729,) however, 
the parish had acquired some celebrity for its bleaching processes, 
from the introduction of workmen from Holland, and the establish- 
ment of bleachfields on the Dutch method. At the time the for- 
mer Statistical Account was published, there were three printfields 
and four bleachfields in the parish. The number of these has 
since much increased, and both departments are simultaneously car- 
ried on in the same establishments. The print-works and bleach- 
fields now in operation are as follows : 

1. Dalmonach and FerryfieldL — At the print-works of Ferry field 
there are employed two steam-engines of 10 and 14 horse power; 
and one water-wheel of 20 feet diameter, 7 feet broad, with a fall 
of 20 inches. The total number of persons employed is 416 ; of 
whom 203 are men, 121 women, and 92 children under twelve years 
of age. The amount of wages paid from 1st January till 1st July 
1809, was L. 5395, 8s. 8d. At Dalmonach there are two engines, 
one of 10 horse power, the other of 16 horse power, and one water- 
wheel of 16^ feet in diameter, and 15 feet broad, with a fall of 26 
inches. The number of persons employed amount to 565, of 
whom 252 are men, 169 women, and 144 children under twelve 
years of age. The wages paid for the first six months of 1839 
amounted to L. 5667, 2s. Od. In both these works there are eight 
printing machines employed, which can print from one to six co- 
lours at a time, and 1200 yards each in an hour. 

2. Dalmonach, — The number of people employed at Dalmonach 
print-works in March 1835, was 899, of whom 604 were males, 
and 295 females. 

3. Levenfield, — At Leven Geld there is a water-wheel of 16 feet 
in diameter, 6^ feet broad, with a fall of 3 feet. The number of 
individuals employed are, 188 men, 97 women, 30 between twelve 
and fifteen years of age, and 100 children under twelve years of 
age, of the last of whom all can read, and 56 write. Amount of 
wages paid from 10th January to 10th July 1839, L.4904, 2$. lOd. 

4. Levenbank Print' JVorks. — There is a steam-engine of 15 horse 
power at these works, with a water-wheel of 22 feet diameter, and 



fiONHILL. 225 

a fall of water of 19 feet The number of persons employed are, 
of men, 1 19, of women, 50, of children under 12 years of age, 53, 
in all 221. Amount of wages paid from 10th January to 10th 
July 1839, L. 3505. 

5. Alexandria Works, — There is a steam-engine of 20 horse 
power at these works, with a water-wheel of 18 feet in diametert 
by 6 broad, and a fall from canal of 15 inches. The persons em- 
ployed are, men 192, women, 142, children, 104 — all of whom can 
read, making a total of 438. The amount of wages paid to these 
from 1st January to 1st July 1839, was L. 5100. The amount of 
goods printed for same period waS 1,310,400 yard^. 

6. DUUddp and Milbum^ — At these works there is a steam- 
equine of 14 horse power, but which works up to 16. The diame- 
ter of Dillichip water-wheel is 15 feet 6 inches, the breadth 11 
feet 3 inches ; — the diameter of Milburn wheel, which is an over- 
shot one, is 23 feet, and the breadth 3 feet. The fall of Dillichip 
canal is about 12 or 14 inches. The number of persons employ- 
ed at these works is 565, of whom 103 are women, and 63 chil- 
dren under twelve years of age. The operations carried on are 
bleaching, dyeing and printing ; and the wages paid from Decem-» 
ber 22d to July 6th 1838-9, amounted to L.6820. The goods 
finished during the same period, were 58,424 pieces of furniture 
and garments, 11,251 handkerchiefs and shawls, and 10,237 
woollens; in all, 2,084,257 yards. 

7. BonhiU PrirU-Work. — The mechanical power employed at 
this establishment is a steam-engine of 18 horses power. The 
number of persons employed are, men, 1 00 ; women, 32 ; and 
children under twelve years of age, 58, all of whom can read and 
write. The amount of wages paid from 1st January to 1st July 
1838, was L. 2000, and the quantity of goods finished, 480,000 
yards. 

8. MilWurn Pyrolignous Works. — These works were established . 
in 1806; about 15 men are employed at them; and the products 
ire pyrolignous' acid, tar, pyroxilic spirit, kreosote, &c. A fine 
Prussian blue is manufactured at these works. 

9. Kirkland Works. — At this establishment a steam-engine of 
8 horses power is employed. The number of individuals employed 
in various departments, is 224. Of these, 83 are children under 
fourteen years of age. The operations carried on are, printing, 
bleaching, and dyeing. The amount of wages paid from 1 st Ja- 
nuary to 1st July 1835, was L. 3106, and the quantity of goods 

DUMBARTON. P 



226 DUMBARTONSHIRK. 

printed and dyed during the same period, was 23,400 pieces, of 
28 or 80 yards in length. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church is mentioned in a charter 
of Donald, Earl of Lennox, about the middle of the fourteenth 
century. The patronage appears to have belonged to this family 
until the widow of Earl Duncan erected the collegiate church of 
Dumbarton in. 1450, and endowed it with this church. 

Number of families who profess to be connected with the Es- 
tablished Church, 592 ; Relief, 254 ; Old Light Burghers, 75 ; 
United Secession, 36 ; Roman Catholics, 12 ; Episcopalians, 
4; Cameroniaqs, 4; Baptists, 3; Unitarians, 2 ; Methodists, 1 ; 
Antiburghers, 1; Bereans, I; of no profession, 28; total, 91S» 
The Independents have since opened a place of worship, and now 
claim 80 members. Also, there is a considerable number of per- 
sons not householders, but lodgers, of whose religious profession 
little is known. Many of these are connected with some one of 
the various bodies. 

It is understood that the kirk-session records were extant to a 
remote period in the time of Mr Gordon Stewart, when Mr Bu- 
chanan of Ardoch saw them. 

Education. — There are 7 schools in the parish, two of which 
are parochial. The average amount of each of the parochial 
schoolmasters' salaries is L. 21, 7s., with L. 15 of school fees, and 
L. 7 of other emoluments, being the yearly worth of the dwelling- 
house, school-room, and garden. Two of the non-parochial 
schools are taught by females. About seven*eighths of the po- 
pulation inhabit the Vale of Leven, and are employed at the 
public works, bleachfields, and printfields : to these works the chil- 
dren are sent, in too many cases, at and under seven years of age ; 
and any learning they get afterwards is at the week day evening 
and Sunday evening schools. (Abstract Education Inquiry, 1837). 

Poor. — 

The average amount of contributions for the poor for the three 

years 1805-86-37, was - - - - - L. 166 5 1 

Of this sum, from church collections, - L. 99 16 3 

Other volunury contributions, - - 28 10 9 

From mortifications, &c. - - - 37 18 1 

L. 166 5 1 

Benefit Societies. — The following are the societies at present 
established in this parish, viz. 1. Bonhill Old Friendly So- 
ciety ; 2. Bonhill New Friendly Society ; a Levenbank Friend- 
ly Society; 4. Balloch Friendly Society; 5. Bonhill and Bal- 

4 



BON HILL. 227 

loch Uoion Friendiy Society ; 6. Bonhill, Levenbank, and Bal- 
locE FrieDdly Society ; 7. Bonhill Village Friendly Funeral 
and Mortcloth Society. They are nearly all similar, and merely 
differ in the sum paid at the death of a member. The first three ( Ist, 
2d, and 8d,) give the sum of L. 1, 10s. to the nearest relation at 
the death of a member, whereas the next three (4th, 5th, and 6th,) 
give JL8 at death ; also there is some trifling difference in their 
way of electing preses, &c. &c. The object of the 7th is to al- 
low L. 5 and the use of the mortcloth to the nearest relation at 
death of a member, and each member (when the number of mem* 
bers exceeds 200), pays 6d. at the death of a member. Every male 
or female upon admission into this society must be above sixteen 
years of age, and under sixty; whose residence or employment must 
be in the village of Bonhill, and pay Is. 6d. as entry-money. There 
are thus no less than seven benefit societies in the parish, alt 
nearly similar in their purposes, for providing a weekly allowance 
to side members, and a sum for the respectable interment of such 
as die. But, besides these, there exist smaller associations of a 
like kind among particular kinds of workmen ; as block-cutters, 
block-printers, engravers, &c And in cases of accident or sick- 
ness, liberal contributions are often raised. Scarcely a pay day pas- 
ses without some such subscription. 

There are no savings' banks in the parish. ^ 

Mechanic^ Institution, — The Vale of Leven Mechanics* Insti* 
tution was commenced in 1834, consequently has been in opera- 
tion for five years. 

The institution has not yet been able to erect a hall to itself, 
and consequently is obliged to deliver its lectures in any room, 
school, or church that can be most readily obtained. 

The support of the institution is derived to a certain extent 
from the donations of the surrounding gentlemen, but chiefly from 
the fees paid by the students themselves ; the fee paid for the 
whole course is only 2s. 6d. The course generally comprehends 
about twenty-six lectures, delivered, for the most part, on Saturday 
night, that being the most convenient for the working population 
here. 

The annexed table will show the attendance and increase for 

the last five years : 

Seasion 1834-5, the number of studenU was 106, at 58. each. 
1835-e, do. 69, at 2s. 6d. 

1896-7, • do. 86, at :2s. 6d. 

1837-8, do. 142, at 2s. 6d. 

1838-9, do. 170, at 2s. 6d. 



228 DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

From a careful calculation of the number of males above eighteen 
years of age, made in the year I8889 it was found that there were 
1176 employed about the Tarious print-works upon the water ; out 
of that number only 109 were members of the Mechanics' Insti- 
tution, that is, about one-eleventh of the whole— the remainder 
consisting of females and persons resident in the district. 

In this district there are three pretty large villages within a 
mile of each other — namely, Bonhill, Alexandria, and Ronton, 
the united population of which may amount to about 6000 ; out 
of that number last year, the attendance was 170, being equal to 
35.29 of the whole. During last session a library of 160 volumes 
has been procured in connection with the institution. 

Hitherto the institution has been much indebted to gratuitous 
lecturers, who, in all cases, have been left to choose their own 
subjects, the consequence of which has been, that the courses of 
instruction were more desultory and unconnected than the com- 
mittee would have liked — an evil which they are endeavouring, as 
far as possible, to obviate during the ensuing session. 

Jidy 1840. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 



ON THE COUNTY OF DUMBARTON,* 



Name. — Dunbar or Dtimbar, and Dunbarton or Dumbarton, 
have long been celebrated in *^ Scottish story/' as national fortres- 
ses of great antiquity and strength, and from analogy, might boti 
be plausibly derived from the same Celtic radicals, Dun and^ 
which by interpretation mean a *^ fort or stronghold on a sunlit 
or height." This is unquestionably the origin of Dunbar on the 
Frith of Forth, but the Dunbar-ton on the Frith of Clyde is sup- 
posed to be a corruption of Dun-briton, the ** fort of the Britons," 
also formerly called, according to Morris and others, Alclud or 
Alcluid. In examining the Acts of Parliament published by 
authority of Government, we find the name frequently rendered 
Dunbretane, more frequently Dunbertane and Dunbartan, but lat- 
terly chiefly Dumbarton or Dunbarton, so that no conclusion can 
be drawn from '* use and wont" in favour of either of the above 
etymologies. But be this as it may, the town and fort, which have 
given their name to the county, are of great antiquity, and evident- 
ly bear the impress of the language of the earliest inhabitants of 
these northern isles. This district is also occasionally known by 
the name of Lenox, which is a corruption of Leven-ach^ " a field 
or district on the Leven," by which latter term we are to under- 
stand not merely the water of Leven, but also Loch Lomond, for- 
merly called Loch Leven, which stretches along a large portion 
of the eastern boundaries of the county, and also washes with its 
pure and limpid wave many parishes in Dumbartonshire to the 
south. The Lenox family, now extinct, but represented by the 
Duke of Richmond, derived their name from the same origin, 
according to the practice of our forefathers, who named great dis- 
tricts and great families after each other. 

• Drawn up by the Rev. William Patrick, Hamilton 



230 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

Extent, (J-c. — Dumbartonshire is situated between 55*^, 53', 30* 
and 56^ 1^,40^, of north latitude; and between 3% 54', 60% and 
4% 53', of longitude west from Greenwich. On the east it is bound- 
ed by the counties of Stirling and Perth, but principally by Stir- 
ling, from which it is separated through a considerable portion of 
its extent, as far north as Elengavahana by Loch Lomond, above 
which the loch is surrounded by the county, including the farms 
of Doune and Ardletsh on the east, which here march with Perth- 
shire. Strathfillan in Perthshire is the entire boundary to the 
north, as Argyleshire is to the west, which last is separated from 
Dumbartonshire by Loch Long, from the Frith of Clyde to Ar- 
rochar. The boundaries on the south are Renfrew and Lanark, 
but principally Renfrew, from which it is separated by the estuary 
of the Clyde. These boundaries do not embrace the disjoined 
piition of this county, including the parishes of Kirkintilloch and 
Cumbernauld, which lie by themselves about six miles east of the 
Dfiain body of the county, bounding with Stirling on the north and 
east, and with Lanark on the south and west. Tlie extreme 
length of Dumbartonshire from Kelvin bridge, at the south-east 
comer of New or East Kilpatrick to Inverarnan brook, at the north 
of the parish of Arrochar, is about 47 miles. Its breadth at the 
southern extremity from east to west is 24 miles ; farther north it 
is 10; between Tarbet or Loch Lomond, and the head of Loch 
Long it is only about 2 miles broad, at Upper Inveruglass scarcely 
so much, and at the northern extremity the widest place is 9^ 
miles. The detached parishes of Kirkintilloch and Cumbernauld 
include a district about 12 miles long from east to west, and from 
2^ to 4 miles broad. This isolated portion of the county contains 
32^ square miles, and the main body of the county 228 — in all 
260^ square miles,, and about 167,040 English acres. 

TopographicahAppearances. — The county of Dumbarton, takea 
as a whole, like the inhabitants scattered over its diversified soil 
and varied surface, is in a transition state, between highlands and 
lowlands. The scenery to the north and all along Loch Lomond 
is for the most part decidedly alpine, and exhibits all the varieties 
of the most enchanting and variegated of Highland landscapes. 
Although the parish of Arrochar, which forms the entire northern 
part of Lenox, be 15 miles long and on an average 3 broad, and 
contains about 48 square miles, still so mountainous and irreclaim- 
able is its soil that not more than about 400 acres are ever sub- 



ON THE COUNTY OF DUMBARTON. 231 

jected to the plough. Here the majestic Ben Voirlich near the 
north-west extremity of Lioch Liomond rears an alpine peak to the 
height of nearly 3300 feet above the level of the sea. The pa- 
rishes of Lass and Row are also decidedly hilly. In the latter of 
these parishes there are two ridges of hills running north-east and 
south-west, intersected by a beautiful strath, (the highly interesting 
and picturesque Glenfruin), which stretches between them upwards 
of five miles. The height of Finnart, which is washed at its base 
by the sea, towers above it to the height of 2500 feet. In Luss, 
Ben Cniachanstean, Corafuar, Shantron, Beneicb, Doune, and 
many others, attain great altitudes, some of them 3000 feet above 
the level of the adjoining seas. The lofly hills in Luss and Ar- 
rochar are strikingly and exquisitely contrasted with the wide ex- 
panse of the beautifully spread and pellucid waves, of the queen 
of lakes, the far-famed, and yet scarcely sufficiently admired Loch 
Lomond. Here savage grandeur, in all the towering superiority of 
uncultivated nature, is seen side by side with the very emblem of 
peace and tranquillity, an alpine lake, which the winds reach only 
by stealth, basking by day under the enlivening beams of the sun, 
but not subjected to the tidal attractions of the pale silvery moon. 
Hie parish of Roseneath, enclosed between two lochs or arms of 
the sea, like Argyle's Bowling Green, a little to the north of it, 
also adds much to the varied and attractive scenery of Dumbarton- 
shire. This peninsula in itself is a very striking panorama. It 
consists principally of one ridge or height rising from the south in 
undulating wavy lines, till at Tamuahara, it attains an elevation of 
about 800 feet From almost any part of the intersecting levels, 
beautiful peeps of sea, mountain, peaceful valley, or rich and ara- 
ble expanses of fertile lands, may be obtained. Towards the 
south of the county, the parishes partake more of the lowland cha- 
racter, and rising, as most of them do, from the' Clyde or Leven, 
and other intersecting streams, attain no great altitude, and present 
but few of the more striking irregularities of surface. To this re- 
mark, there are, however, many exceptions, and these striking 
ones, as for exs^mple, the rock of Dumbarton, which to the eye of 
the geologist presents the idea of a coprolite, after nature had ex- 
hausted herself by her more gigantic eflForts to the north. The 
Kilpatrick braes, rising to the height of 1^00 feet above the sea, 
are also a fine range of hills, intersecting a fertile and beautiful 
lowland country, affording from their summits some of the finest 



232 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

• 

prospects to be had in Scotland ; and doubly interesting by com- 
bining a view of the summits of the wildest Highland hills, with 
the rich mercantile highly cultivated districts of Renfrew and 
Lanark — the workshops of the west of Scotland. No district in 
North Britain can boast of finer scenery than the county of Dum- 
barton, and certainly none is more variegated or more frequently 
visited, or admired by strangers. 

Hydrography. — This county may truly be termed the land of 
" lakes and streams." The muse of Smollet has made the Leven 
familiar to every classic ear; and Loch Lomond presents attractions 
to the eye with which the fervid anticipations of the most pictures- 
que fancy are more than gratified. The landscape view of the 
district, however, comes only partially within the drier definition 
of statistics. In alluding to Loch Lomond, in all respects the most 
interesting sheet of water in Dumbartonshire or Scotland, forget- 
ting the scenery, (or remembering to forget it,) we shall state only 
a few facts carefully and statistically ascertained. 

This magnificent expanse of fresh water is, as near as can be as- 
certained, twenty-four miles in length, (not thirty, as in various po- 
pular publications,) and in some places six or seven miles broad. 
Its direction is nearly south-west and north-east, but rather in- 
clined to north and south. The bed in general is a soft detrital 
mud, formed from the washings of the adjoining rocks. It is re- 
markable that where narrowest this lake is generally deepest ; and» 
from, there being little or no waste of rocks from currents, the in- 
equalities of depth must be natural, and not from recent artificial 
acts of abrasion. In the south at Kilmaronock, Bonhill, and in 
part of Luss, the width is considerable, probably about seven miles. 
It tapers and twists gradually northwards to near Ardleish, like an 
eel, where it receives two rivulets of tiny dimensions. North of 
the Clachan of Luss, the lake is deepest and narrowest, but pro- 
bably in no place does it exceed in depth 600 feet, namely, oppo- 
site Alt Gary, and in other places north of the above village 
it varies in depth from 396 to 480 or 54Q feet. At Faskin it is 
66 fathoms, northwards a little 80 fathoms ; two miles north of 
Tarbet 80 fathoms, and at Alt Garry, as above, 100. In these 
northern parts, the lake never freezes, being too deep to attain an 
equal temperature. South of Luss, Loch Lomond is seldom deep* 
er than 1 20 feet, but with this depth of water frost is seldom strong 
enough to congeal its surface. In some places, however, a fri- 

3 




ON THE COUNTY OP DUMBARTON. 233 

gorific influence subsists between the islands and mainland, which 
produces a thick board of ice in severe seasons. 

The waters of the lake, although much too limited to be affect- 
ed by tides, are not stationary. At the time of the great earth- 
quake at Lisbon, November 1st, 1755, a singular commotion was 
observed in this lake, which shows that its foundations are deeply 
set, and are connected with'secret and distant correspondents. Its 
usurping powers at present have evidently a tendency to encroach 
upon the land. In some places the ruins of the works of man have 
been overtopped by the waters of Loch Lomond ; and the stepping- 
stones across the channel of the Falloch, at the north end of the 
Lake, are now below the surface of the water, many feet, even in 
the greatest droughts. The effects of heavy rains or the melting 
of snow are not insensibly felt ; affecting the water level in some 
instances to the amount of five or six feet. In droughts the de- 
crease of water is equally perceptible. North of Luss, the banks 
of the lake are often lofty or precipitous ; but south of that village 
they slope gradually to the shores of the lake, and flatten down 
alnoost to a dead level. The family seat of Camstradden, men- 
tioned by ancient writers as an island or peninsula, with an house 
and orchard, has been completely overwhelmed, and exhibits only 
a cairn of stones when the water is very low. A number of head- 
lands or Rosses, especially along the southern banks, at once en* 
liven and diversify the scene, which, added to the islands scattered 
over the surface of the lake like spots on the sun, give a peculiar 
character to the scenery of Loch Lomond. The principal islands of 
Loch Lomond in this county are Inch-murin, Inch-lonaig, Inch-ta- 
vanach. Inch-moan, Inch-conachan, and Inch-galbraith, with nine 
other islets of inferior size and less importance. The islands Inch- 
cailach. Inch-fad, Inch-cruin, For-inch, Cre-inch, Clair-inch, and 
Bue-inch, are in the county of Stirling. The Tom-na-clag in Inch- 
tavanach, the yew trees and deer park in Inch-lonaig, added to the 
circumstance of both islets being used as "temperance hotels," for 
the reclaiming of confirmed drunkards, add at once a moral and natu- 
ral beauty to the scene. This fine sheet of water empties itself by 
the river Leven, which pursues the same direction as the lake it- 
self into the Frith of Clyde, after a sweet and richly varied course 
of about seven miles. Its waters, like those of the loch, are extreme- 
ly pure, and are equally well fitted for culinary or manufacturing 
purposes. To the traders of Glasgow they are invaluable, and 



234 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

have invited hither many extensive bleaching and printing esta- 
blishments, such as those of Bonhill-field, Bonhill-place, Leveo- 
field, Leven^^bank, Kirkland-field, Dalmanoch-field, Dalgohom, 
Cordelty &c The same properties have rendered the Leven an 
equally eligible situatipn.for the scaly tribes/' many species of which 

*« Cut with tireir golden oart tbe silver stream.** 

Smollet in his beautiful ode to Leven water particularly alludes 
to its watery tenants,. y ^^^tit '^' ' 

In myriads de%fi|}ff|^y8Ul flood ; 
The springing Crtiijit lit speckled pride ; 
Tlie salmon monarch of the tide ; 
Tbe ruthless pike intent on war ; 
The silver eel and mottled char.** 

There are besides Loch Lomond, eight or nine small fresh water 
lakes in Dumbartonshire, but none of them of much importance. 
Loch Sloy, in Arrochar, upwards of a mile long and a quarter of a 
mile broad, is interesting as having been at one period the rendez- 
vous of the clan Macfarlane, whose slughorn, or war cry, was 
" Loch Sloy," which in Gaelic signifies the " lake of the host or 
army." There are also two considerable lochs in Old Kilpatrick ; 
two also at Fannyside, in the parish of Cumbernauld, between 
which a new public road, projected and accomplished by that in- 
defatigable road-maker, the Honourable Admiral Fleeming, now 
passes. 

The river Clyde, on the southern boundary of the county, is not 
more beautiful than lucrative to all the districts which its waters 
intersect or touch upotu At the head of Loch Lomond the waters 
of Falloch, Inveruglas, Douglas, and Linnhe, are '' brisk bratling 
mountain streams, exhibiting in inany places small but beautiful 
cascades. The Kelvin water is part of Kirkintilloch parish, where 
it resembles a great ditch traversing a meadow, but at Garscube 
its banks are bold and elevated, and continue to be highly interest- 
ing, till its embochure in the Clyde at Partick, two miles below 
Glasgow. Gareloch and Loch Long are two very interesting arms 
of the sea to the west of the county. Gareloch, i. e. the " short 
loch," is a small sheet of salt water, running nearly N. W. and 
S. E. Like Loch Lomond, it is not more than six miles long, and 
has an average depth of about 130 feet, lying on a fine stiff blue 
clay, excellent for the anchorage of vessels. Loch Long is a more 
extensive arm of the sea, running nearly N.E. and S.W., approach- 
ing Loch Lomond to the north and receding from it to the south. 



» 



ON THE COUNTY OF DUMBARTON. 235 

It is upwards of twenty miles long, and in some places very deep. 
Its immense depth gives to the waters a dark blackish, colour, in 
some degree heightened by the hills which skirt it on either side. 
The scenery at the opening of Loch Goil *and about Arrochar is 
peculiarly bold and striking; and from Baremman and Tamnahara, 
in Roseneath, it is of a character, perhaps, scarcely equalled even 
in the panoramic assemblage of nature's. gifts in this highly favour- 
ed district Beautiful. streamv^yi- lakes of less note are plenti- 
fully scattered over the face ilF^^iiioutiiy ; and springs of whofe- 
some water gush out in liberai^NPbfusion for the use of man and 
beast. 

Geology. — The geology of this district presents a suite of rocks: 
from the oldest strata, mica-slate, to the limestone and coal forma- 
tions. The oldest formations are to the north, and the newest in^tbe 
south and south-east. The generally predominating rock where the 
primitive strata prevail is mica^slate, — a formation which lies im- 
mediately above the gneiss, and into which it insensibly passes. 
This mineral here, as in the neighbouring districts, and through- 
out the greater portion of the Highlands of Scotland, presents a 
dtstinct and uniform character. It is composed chiefly of parts 
adhering together without any intermediate cement, forming 
plates laid on each other. It is always stratified, and is most- 
ly composed of mica and quartz, and occasionally felspar. Mica 
b very abundant, quartz also very abundant, and felspar scarce- 
ly perceptible. This rock forms the bulk of all the highest and 
most striking hills in the north of the county. The direction 
of the strata, as a whole, is nearly N. E. and S. W. At the sum- 
mits and along the bases of the hills on both sides of Loch Lomond, 
the strata of mica-slate are distinctly observed cropping out in the 
usual direction, and in a position almost vertical, irom which it 
may be inferred that this substance composes the mass of these 
mountain ranges. The mica-slate of this quarter is distinguished 
by an abundance of quartz, which in some other districts is gene- 
rally in small quantity. Towards the summits of some of these 
mountains, the rock is remarkably penetrated by it, and exhibits 
veins and masses of every form, but not in regular beds. Indeed, 
quartz in many instances is so abundant, that it gives the mica- 
slate a whitish colour, resembling at a distance pure quartz. In 
some places these rocks are remarkably twisted, as at the foot of 
Glen Falloch, in Arrochar, where a beautiful section is brought to 



236 GENERAL OBSEttVATIONS 

view by the extensive cuttings for the new road which passes' 
through Strathfillan. The dip of the strata at the head of Loch 
Lomond is generally S. E., and the course of the valleys by which 
the mountain ranges are intersected affect an easterly direction. The 
principal of these are Glenfroon, Glenfinlass, Glen-du-glass, &c. 

In some places the mica-slate passes into talc-slate. This 
is especially the case between Tarbet and Luss, where mica-slate 
and talc-slate occur, with intersecting beds of greenstone and 
felspar porphyry. A singular dike of greenstone may also be ob- 
served at Knockderry, on the shore of Loch Long. The rock in 
which this intruded mass occurs is for some distance completely 
altered, so as to assume the appearance of chlorite slate. 

Besides the mica-slate, this district is also intersected by a clay- 
slate formation, in a direction south-west and north-east, constitut- 
ing a part of that great clay-slate formation skirting the Highlands, 
and found in so many localities. It is wrought in this county, in the 
well-known quarries of Luss and Camstradden. These slates are 
frequently traversed by veins of quartz, and abound with iron py- 
rites, which, in the clay-slate, is always found in crystals, which ge- 
nerally assume the form of cubes. It is particularly worthy of re- 
mark, that the islands at the south end of Loch Lomond, where they 
are only to be found, are in the direction of the clay-slate, and softer 
transition strata. These islands themselves are formed of the 
more durable varieties of rocks, while the clay-slate and softer rocks 
have been washed away, leaving the islets entire, affording a: strong 
presumption that their present appearance is the result of exten- 
sive denudation. The lake itself is in fact only a great cavity in mi- 
ca-slate, &c. at a low level, and consequently filled with water. The 
probability, therefore, is, that the whole of this remarkable cavity 
must have been filled up at some prior period by one great mass 
or line of strata, which, being of a softer structure, and more liable 
to the wasting effects of air and water, has been gradually broken 
or worn into its present shape. 

The slates in this district may be generally termed quartzy 
mica, and these constitute the greater portion of the primary dis- 
trict ; clay-slate also abounds, and is found lying on the mica- 
slate. These rocks frequently pass into talc-slate, as already 
3tated, and also into a sort of porphyritic mica-slate, thickly stud- 
ded with crystals of quartz, and also, in some cases, there occurs 
a slate so much mixed with lime that it may be safely termed a 
limestone slate. 



ON THE COUNTr OF DUMBARTON. 237 

A litde to the south of Camstradden slate quarry, and near to 
Ros-doe, the transition rocks succeed the primary stratified group 
io the shape of greywacke, and slaty greywackeof a peculiar com* 
position, and alternating with the older formation to the north; 
This greywacke is very different in appearance from that general- 
ly found about Leadhills and the south of Lanarkshire. It seems, 
for the most part, to be composed of quartz, felspar, and clay^slate, 
cemented together with a basis of clay-slate, and frequently stud- 
ded with blue quartz, common quartz, and crystals of felspar. 
Scarcely anything of the shape of greywacke-slate is to be found, 
and none of those remarkable alternations of greywacke and grey- 
wacke-slate, which abound in the south of Scotland, occur here. 
But the peciiliar feature of these transition rocks is the presence of 
the black-limestone, not a vestige of which occurs in the greywacke 
of the south of Lanarkshire. This limestone, of a bluish-black 
colour, is to be found connected with the slate formation in Ar- 
denconnel muir, and also in Glenfruin. The same superabun- 
dance of quartz as in the mica-slate is also another remarkable 
feature, to which we may add the total absence of flinty slate, or 
Lydian stone, and those frequent alternations with porphyry, re^ 
sembling the ehan courses of Cornwall. With regard to the black 
limestone, it is allowed by Charpentier and others, that it is of 
later formation than greywacke and clay-slate» When nearest to 
the primitive formations, the black limestone is subordinate, while 
in the newest part of the transition formations, clay-slate is only 
found subordinate to limestone. This is exactly the position in 
which it occurs here, as may be seen in the localities above al- 
luded to. It^must be confessed, however, that the remark of 
Humboldt has much weight, namely, that the constancy of binary 
or tertiary associations, as connected with the transition formations, 
are of much more importance than the analogy which the succes- 
sion of homonymous rocks presents. Thus he observes, that clay- 
slate and black limestone, clay-slate and porphyries, clay-slate and 
diorites, and greywacke, porphyry, and sienite, granular lime- 
stone, and anthracitous mica-slate, are observed to form geognos- 
tic associations in countries the most remote from one another. 
Some of these associations, as the clay-slate and black limestone, 
are to be found in Dumbarton, but not in Lanarkshire, while many 
of the others are found in the south of Scotland, but not in this 
part of it. 



238 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

The mica-slate, including also chlorite slate, as on Gare- 
loch above Row Ferry, on which these transition rocks rest, 
is an extensive formation, extending from the Mull of Can- 
tyre, and including the islands of Isia, Jura, and Colonsay. It 
stretches along by the north of Loch Awe, where it meets with 
the granite of Cruahan Ben, it then passes on by Ben Lawers to 
the north of Loch Tay, and may be traced in a thin line as feur east aa 
Stonehaven. This rests again upon an immense deposit of gneiss, 
which extends to the north of Scotland, with patches of granite and of 
old red sandstone, here and there interspersed. The transition rocks 
here are part of a thin stripe of very inconsiderable breadth, running 
north-east and soulh-west, passing through the centre of the island 
of Bute, entering this county near the south-east end of Roseneatb, 
crossing it by Ros-doe and the Pass of Balmaha it stretches away by 
Aberfoil, Callander, Comrie, south-east of Dunkeld, passes through 
Edzel, and terminates in the sea at Stonehaven. Bute is the 
south-western terminus of the minerals of which the county of 
Dumbarton is composed, and Stonehaven the north>east terminus* 
From the same point in the north-east, an extensive formation of 
old red sandstone, lying to the south, extends also from Stonehaven 
to the south of Bute, having Montrose, Arbroath, Dundee, Dun- 
. ning, Stirling, and the town of Dumbarton standing on its south- 
ern extremities. Like the greywacke, this formation runs due 
north-east and south-west. As connected with Dumbartonshire, 
the old red sandstone group appears in the south-west of the pe- 
ninsula of Roseneath, chiefly as a conglomerate south-east of the 
vale or dingle, which stretches from Campsail on the east to Port- 
kill on the south-west. It passes north-east through part of Row 
parish, including the Cilliter range to the north-west, and the point 
of Ardmore, including Camis Eskin and Keppoch, and then 
stretches through Bonhill to Inch-murrin in Loch Lomond, and on 
to Balmaha and Buchannan. It constitutes, in fact, part of the 
lower basin of Loch Lomond on its south-east end. It forms also 
the link between the slaty rocks to the north, and the sandstone, 
lime, coal, iron, &c. to south ; and may be said, in some degree, 
to be the basin of the Frith of Clyde. In many places along this 
noble estuary, there are striking proofs of the sea having once at- 
tained a higher level, and of having overtopped its present bed 
thirty or forty feet This is strikingly exhibited in the remarkable 
promontory of Ardmore, south-east of the entrance to the Gare- 



ON THE COUNTY OF DUMBARTON. 23^ 

loch. This rock is of a circular form, composed entirely of old 
red saodstone conglomerate, containing many rounded water-worn 
balls, chiefly of quartz, very much resembling the breccia of the 
Ldmarkshire formations. It is about forty feet high, and seems 
leh as a pillar to mark the modern subsidence of the waters which 
once surrounded it. The same conglomerate is found in the Cil* 
liter range, a little to the north. In other places this sandstone is 
of a greyish-blue colour, either coarse-grained or 6ne granular* 
The coarse-grained contains angular fragments and rolled masses 
of quartz, felspar, grey wacke, and clay-slate, often so large, as in 
the above instances to constitute conglomeratesi — the fine gra- 
nular, in some varieties, with a base, in others, with a cement of 
day, is chiefly composed of quartz, felspar, and mica, minutely 
aggregated. This formation has, in all respects, the characters of 
old red sandstone, approaching to greywacke, and very much re- 
sembles the old red sandstone of Lanarkshire. In some places, 
jasper is found in considerable abundance ; and in one place, north- 
west of Cilliter, a dike of jasper of a coarse hard quality occurs. 
On the estate of Camis Eskan in Cardross, the old red sandstone 
contains traces of limestone, sometimes pervading the rock as a sort 
of base, as above Lanark in a neighbouring county, or more fre« 
quently in the form of contemporaneous veins. 

Proceeding southwards, and above the old red sandstone, we 
have, in some places, a reddish sandstone, evidently not of the old 
red sandstone formation, and in other places a sandstone of a warm 
cream colour, easily chiselled, but hardening by exposure. The 
author has paid much attention to these formations on the borders 
of the old red sandstone, and has no doubt but that they are ana- 
logous to apparently similar formations in the upper ward of 
Lanarkshire. Yellow sandstone, of the same sort as is found in 
Dumbartonshire above the old red sandstone, occurs in Lanark- 
shire abundantly in Wiston parish, also on Kennox Water, Dou- 
glas, and near Monk's-head, Lesmahagow. It usually lies in both 
countiies in thick plies, not far above the conglomerate, and imme- 
diately connected with the lower limestones. This yellow sand- 
stone in Dumbartonshire extends, perhaps, as far as Netherton 
Garscube in New Kilpatrick, not in an uniform mass, but, as it 
were, incidentally. Above these rocks, limestone and coal, shale 
and small beds of ironstone connected with the lower limestones 
occur. These metals, which are wrought with so much advantage 



240 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

to the proprietors and public, do not exist to any great extent iir 
this county. With regard to the geology of the two detached pa- 
rishes of Cumbernauld and Kirkintilloch, as fiill a description as 
circumstances would permit is given of that part of Dumbarton- 
shire, under the article Kirkintilloch. These parishes, however, 
although about five or six miles removed from the body of the 
county, are connected naturally with it in Ihe geological features 
of its south-eastern extremity. Both form part of the limestone 
series, or lower parts of the coal formations. In the middle and 
lower wards of Lanarkshire, the coals above the limestone form the 
great mineral wealth of that county ; but none of the same sort of 
minerals occur in the county of Dumbarton, unless it be at Grars- 
cube, in the south-east comer of the parish of New Kilpatrick. 
The limestone coals are wrought below those at Lawmuir and 
Castlehill, at a depth of about thirty fathoms. The natural con- 
nection of the parishes of Kirkintilloch and Cumbernauld with the 
county of Dumbarton are better exhibited by the expansive suite 
of their mineral products, than by acts of Parliament and parch- 
ment charters. The great link indicated by nature between these 
two districts is the calm limestone^ so fully alluded to in the ac- 
count of the parish of Kirkintilloch, extending from near the 
House of Cumbernauld, westward through the conterminous coun- 
ties of Lanark and Stirling, onwards to Old Kilpatrick at Dunto- 
cher. At this latter place, the property of Mr Dunn, the calm 
limestone is at present wrought in a pit of about thirty fathoms. 
Here the coal and limestone are each about 4 feet 9 inches, with 
but little separation. The coal is of a caking quality, and is first 
wrought stoop and room, after which the limestone is blasted. 
The limestone is mostly burned in old clamp or sow kilns, improved 
as much as possible by air pens, carried up the sides and ends, and 
stocked with brushwood. Draw-kilns save one-half. The miners 
are paid about 6s. per heap of five tons. One ton of coal is re- 
quired to burn thirty-two bushels of lime, equal to about two of 
lime for one of coal. The Jime is sold at 15s. per chalder of shells. 
The men employed in filling the kilns are paid per day ; but the 
burning alone costs about Is. 4d. per chalder. The coals at Gars- 
cube dip south-east at an angle of about 8°. The chief alterna 
tions of the strata are slate-clay, sandstone, clay ironstone, and 
fakes. 

UnstraiiJUd Rocks. — These are chiefly the trap of Dumbarton 
Castle and the Kilpatrick Hills, and certain beds of felspar por- 



ON THE COUNTY OF DUMBARTON. 241 

phyry found among the older rocks of mica-slate. There are also 
dikes of trap and porphyry both in the mica-slate and greywacke. 
The Kilpatrick braes form the most interesting features in this dis* 
trict connected with the igneous formations. These beautiful hills 
range nearly east and west, and form a sort of continuation of the 
CSampsie Fells, from which they are separated by the straths of the 
Blane, and the Allander; while on the west they terminate abrupt- 
ly in the remarkable eminence termed Dumbuck, a sort of mimic 
of the Dumbarton rock. These hills are more or less connected 
with the parishes of Old and New Kilpatrick, Dumbarton, Bon« 
bill, and KilmaronocL They consist chiefly of greenstone, amyg-« 
daloid, trap-tuff, wacke, and basalt, incumbent on alternate strata 
of slate-clay and limestone to an unknown depth. Columns of 
basalt are found at Auchintorlie, also in the Glenarbuck grounds, 
and near Craigton. There is also in one part of the hills what 
seems to have been the remains of an extinct volcano. The 
eastle rock of Dumbarton, like the beautiful and romantic Kil- 
patrick braes, is composed of various sorts of trap. It forms the 
southern point of the parish of Dumbarton, and stands on a small 
jpeninsala at the junction of the Leven and Clyde. Like another 
remarkable hill, (Parnassus,) this rock has two summits; that to 
the west being highest, or about 206 feet above the level of the 
sea. The trap of these formations contains a great many of those 
aluminous silicious products, which constitute the zeolite family. 
The principal species are the mesotype of Hauy, and the Preh- 
nite. Besides these there are other new species, such as Thom- 
sonite, Hewlandite, &c A rare mineral, named Edingtonite, 
in honour of Mr Edington of Glasgow, occurs associated with the 
Thomsonite. The sulphate of barytes has also been found ; but no 
metal seems to accompany it This district is rich in mineral 
products. 

The trap of Dumbartonshire is part of that irregular mass which 
extends in length from St Andrews to Largs, and from Dunbar to 
Ayr, and in breadth from Stirling to near Peebles, including the 
limits of the great coal-field extending from the German to the 
Atlantic oceans. This trap in Dumbartonshire occurs only 
among the Umestone which lies at the bottom of the coal-fields. ' 

The felspar-porphyry in the mica-slate generally runs in dikes or 
masses parallel to each other. In some instances it effects a slaty 
structure, and seems to contain crystals of hornblende and pista- 

JDUHBARTON. Q 



242 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

cite, with small portions of cblor ite, aad oecasiooally common gar- 
net and pyrites. 

Organic JUmains. — Connected with the limestones and day 
ironstones there are yarious organic remains; but none except 
those peculiar to similar formations elsewhere. These are chief* 
ly spiri&rs, producta^ terebratuLae, paludinse, &c. 

The sand deposits in the south of the county also oootain Ta- 
rious beds of petrified shells, particularly at Dalmuir, so fully al- 
luded to by Mr Thomas Thomson in the Records of General 
Science. The geology of the eastern and detached portion of the 
county will be found under the article Kirkintilloch. 

Meteorology. — As connected with the geology of the district, 
we may also mention the science of meteorology. The climate of 
^ country depends much upon its alpine groups, its vales, and its 
forests, and the whole are materially influenced by their vicinity to 
the sea. There can be little doubt but that the broad stripe of 
coal and lime abounding everywhere, with great masses of iron in 
beds, balls, or dissen^iqated, which extends from the Atlantic be^ 
tween Arraq and the mainland, including the Frith of Forth, as 
far as tho Bass aqd Fifeness, materially influences the climate of 
this portion of the west of Scotland. It is universally admitted 
that the winds blow fropa the Atlantic, or frum a westerly direc^ 
tion, ajt least nine months in the year. This gives a sufficient 
cause for the direction of the winds, with the course of which the 
phenomena of rain is also intimately connected. The quantity of 
rain which falls along the coast from Greenock to Ayr has long 
been remarked to be much greater than in any corresponding dis- 
trict in Scotland. But the difference is not so much in the quan- 
tity of rain that falls, as in the number of days on which it actu- 
ally rains. It is generally supposed that temperature, and rain, 
which is the creature of temperature, are intimately connected 
with those subtile and generally invisible agents, the magnetic or 
electric fluids. It is to the presence of these in one form or other 
that we owe the greater part of the phenomena of rain. If clouds 
then be of magnetic or electric origin, it is very possible they may 
have some connection with the attractive influences of the im- 
mense iron deposits which stretdi in a north-easterly direction 
from Greenock to St Andrews, and from Ayr to Dunbar. The 
iron in the above deposits no doubt^ attracts the magnetic clouds, 
and these coming in contact with the high hills on the western 
coast, there precipitate their contents. The cause of the same 



ON THE COUXTV OF DUMBARTON. 243 

phenomena not happening along the iron-bound coast on the east* 
arises from the wind more seldom blowing from the east ; but 
nine months of the year, as has already been stated, the winds 
are in a westerly direction, which accounts for the greater access 
of rain on the western coast. 

Ayriadture. — The north of the county is very narrow and 
mountainous ; indeed, from Tarbet on Loch Lomond side, to Ar- 
rochar on Loch Long side, there is only a small isthmus of about 
two miles long, having great altitudes to the north and south. 
The shores of Loch Lomond are mostly sandy and flat, and towards 
the north occasionally rocky. The soil on the mountainous part 
of the parish is mostly light, and composed of the detrital parts 
of the mica-«late on which it rests. In the south-east of the pa* 
rish of Luss, there is some flat land, especially along the lake, 
from the southern boundary of the above parish to Ross-dhu. 
Among the hills to the north there are also some beautiful straths, 
such as Glenfruin. The banks of Loch Long are mostly hill pas- 
ture, but on the Gareloch, cultivation has extended a considerablo 
way up the sides of the hills which skirt it. Much arable flat 
land is also to be found at Ardincaple, and on the barony of Mil- 
lig. The parishes to the south and south-east of the county con* 
tain much fertile and valuable land, especially along the Leven, 
and throughout Kilpatrick Old and New. The soil, generally 
speaking, near to the streams of fresh water, along the Clyde, the 
Leven, the Endrick, and such like waters is the best In the 
north, gravel with sand or gravelly loam mostly prevail ; in the 
more fertile parts of the district, fine black loam is a prevailing 
soil The soil and surface of Dumbartonshire may be stated as 
follows : — 





English ticres 


Deep black loam, 


6,050 


Clay on a subsoil of till, 


. 30,970 


Gravel or gravelly loam, 


25,220 


Green hill pasture, - 


3.750 


Mountains and moors, - 


99,400 


Bog, 


720 


Islands in Loch Lomond, 


. 930 



ToUl English acres, 167,040 

The landed properties in this shire, not large in itself, fre- 
quently occupy a large surface, while they yield but a small re- 
turn in produce. The proprietors are few, not exceeding 150, 
exclusive of feuars and portioners in towns, whose number docs 
not exceed 400. The rental of the highest heritor is only about 



244 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

L. 4500. The farms in some places do not exceed 20. or 30 
acres in extent, but in some instances they amount to 600 or 800 
acres. The smaller farms are occupied by smaller tenants, mi- 
serably fed, living upon land over-cropt and miserably cultivated. 
In the best parts of the county, the cultivation equals the best 
style of agriculture known in the west of Scotland. In the north, 
the average rental of arable land is L. 1, 10s. per acre, the ave- 
rage grazing of an ox or cow L. 2, and of a sheep from 2s. 6d. to 
ds. A little farther south the price of grazing is somewhat 
higher; but the rental of cultivated land is much the same. 
The Highland breed of cattle is grazed on the hilly pastures. 
The milch cows on the low grounds are mostly of the cross breed 
between Highland and Ayrshire, and on the low and sheltered 
land pure Ayrshire. The indigenous horses are of a small size 
between the cart-horse and the Highland poney, combining the 
faults and blemishes of both. The prevailing breed of sheep are 
the south of Scotland black-faced sheep on the hill pasture, and 
occasionally the Cheviot breed on the low grounds, with some 
pets of the English breeds. 

In some places farther south still, the general character of the 
husbandry is improving, chiefly by inclosing and draining on the 
modern system. Nearly the whole of the cultivated ground is 
inclosed by hedges and stone dikes, and waste lands have in some 
places been reclaimed to a considerable extent. Within these 
few years a great deal has been done in the freeing of the land 
from moisture, by the modern improvements in draining. But 
much yet remains to be done, before the parish be greatly im- 
proved in this way. In the better cultivated places, the average 
rental of land is L. 1, 15s. per acre in the higher and wilder parts, 
and from L. 2 to L. 2, 10s. and L. 3 in the more fertile grounds. 
On pasture farms, the average rate of grazing a cow or ox is h»^ .. 
and near towns and villages, L. 5 are taken for a milch cow for 
the season, and about 8s. for a sheep. 

The husbandry in the south-east of Dumbartonshire includes 
a good deal of green cropping, and in the best places with a six 
years' shift; namely, 1. oat^; 2. potatoes, or a little turnip ; 3. 
vvheat with rye-grass and clover ; 4. hay ; 5. and 6. pasture. In 
most instances, however, no regular rotation is observed ; and the 
practice of taking two white crops in succession is still in too com- 
mon use. 

Wages. — The average wages of the best ploughmen is about 



ON THE COUNTY OF DUMBARTON. 245. 

L9 per half year, which is at the rate of Is. per day ; the best 
dairy maids have seldom more than 6d. per day, or L. 4, 10s. per 
half year. Inferior servants have wages at a lower rate. If meal 
be reckoned at Is. 6d« per peck, the food of a male servant will 
cost bis master L. 7 or L. 8 more, so that his whole charge will 
be about L. 26 per annum ; and, allowing L. 4 more for board and 
lodging, about L.dO. This is nearly at the rate of a labourer's 
wages at Is. 8(1. per day upon an average through the whole year. 
This may appear a small sum, but it is perfectly sufficient for the 
condition of those who enjoy the pure physical necessaries of life, 
without any superfluity. 

Manufactures. — The two great sources of improvement in this 
as in neighbouring districts are chiefly attributable to two circum- 
stances: 1. The growth of the trade of Glasgow, Greenock, 
and Paisley, and the increase of their wealth, industry, and inha- 
bitants, have supported the prices of corn and cattle for many years 
past ; and it is to be hoped for the interest of this county, and of 
Scotland at large, they will not for many years, at least, much 
diminish. 2. The great and constant employment at present 
given to the lower classes of our industrious inhabitants, throws 
ready money into their hands, with which they go to market, and 
paying down, purchase at the lowest rate. Formerly they took 
from landlords, farmers, and manufacturing employers, goods and 
the means of subsistence upon the credit of their future services, 
which by the good was granted as an act of charity, by the bad 
as a most usurious and oppressive loan. A great change, however, 
took place on the introduction of man ufactures on a larger scale 
than formerly upwards of fifty years ago, when regular fair wages 
for labour were first introduced. So early as 1728, two public 
bleachfields were established in this county, one at Dalquharn on 
*• the Leven, and another at Cawesser on Loch Lomond, at both of 
which Dutch bleachers were employed. In 1810, there were nine 
bleachfields for whitening cotton goods. The gross value of the 
works was about L. 14,000; they employed about 150 men and 
women, whose wages amounted to near L. 3000 per annum, and 
consumed about 1800 tons of coals. There was also a field for 
bleaching linens, which employed 30 persons, and consumed 
1100 cart loads of coals per annum. There were then also other 
bleachfields for printed goods, in all employing 1700 hands, at a 
yearly amount of wages approaching L. 50,000. 

The machinery was estimated at L. 140,000; and they con- 



246 GENERAL OBSKRVATIONS 

sumed annually 9600 tons of coals, worth L. 6000. The difference 
at the present period will be best seen by referring to the accounts 
of the respective parishes in which they occur. The same may 
be also stated as to the bottle-works, glass-works, and other public 
works in the county. 

Population^ 8fc. This county extends to about 260^ square miles, 
the valuation in Scots money being L. 33,327, 19s. The popu- 
lation in the following years was as under : 

1801. 1811. 1821. 1831. 
20,710 24,189 27,317 33,211 

In the first ten years there is an increase of 17 ; second ten 13 ; 
third ten 22. The population of the twelve parishes at present 
is as under — 

Arrocharin 1831, - 560 

Cardross, in 1831, - 3566 

Cumbernauld in 1831, - 3080 

Dumbarton in 1831, . 3623 

Kilpatrick New in 1831, - 3000 

KilpatrickOidin 1831, . 5879 

Kirkintilloch in 1831, - 5888 

Lussin 1831, . 1181 

Hoseneath in 1831, - 709 

Row in 1831, . 2037 

Kilmaronock in 1831, - 999 

Bonhillin 1831, . 3874 

Of its establishment as a shircy its past and present condition^ ffc. 
— From the chartulary of I^ennox, ands everal other records, it 
appears that there had been a judge or justice of Levenax in the 
reigns of William the Lion and Alexander II. In 1271, as ap- 
pears from Hole's Sutherland, (ch. 1 p. 6,) Walter Stewart, 
Earl Menteith, the foul betrayer of Wallace, was Sheriff of this 
county, and constable of its castle. The parishes of Kirkintilloch 
and Cumbernauld were first detached from the sheriffdom of Stir- 
ling and annexed to Dumbarton by Malcolm Fleemiqg, father of 
Sir Malcolm Fleeming, first Earl of Wigton, as appears from the 
chartulary of Lennox (1, 38.) In the Acts of Parliament pub- 
lished by authority of Government, Dumbarton is not once men- 
tioned in the reign of James I. During the reign of his succes- 
sor James 11. this shire seems to have come into greater notice. 
In August 1440, " the castell of Dumbertane, with the lands of 
Cardross, Roseneathe, the pensione of Cadzowe, with the pensione 
of the Ferme-Mill of Kilpatrick," seem to have been annexed to 
the Crown. About five years before this, Lord Erskine was in 
possession of Dumbarton Castle, and agreed to give it up " to the 
advice of the King and the three estates," upon his being ^^ freely 



ON TKK COUNTY OF DUMBARTON. 247 

entered iDto the Caslell of Kildrummie." On the occasion of the 
flmrriage of James III. in 1467, James Douglas and William 
Artbiinon were appointed by the estates to uplift the tax in Dum- 
bartonshire. At this time the Scots groat of the crown, which 
passed for Is. Id., was to pass for Is. 2d., and the half groat at 7(1. 
Item» the ^^ auld Inglisgrote to pass for 4d., and new grote'of Ed- 
ward for dd." 

In 1488 (temp. Joannes IV.) many of the western counties 
were in a very unsettled state, and the strong arm of the law was 
required to put down ^^ thift, reff, and uther ennormities." For 
this purpose the Lord of Montgomery is appointed for *^ Dumber- 
tane, the Leuenax, Bute, and Arran." Lennox and Dumbarton 
are here mentioned as constituting separate districts. In the same 
year some attention seems to have been devoted to the trade of 
Dumbarton, ^* it is statut and ordanit that in all time to come all 
manner of schippis may come to such free burrowis as Dumber* 
tane.^ In 1489, and for some years after, the Castle of Dumbar- 
ton was held by Robert, Lord Lile, and Malho Stewart, ^^ agane 
our sovreigne lord," also the castles of Cruikston and Duchel, 
Lennox and Lile were confederated to revenge the &11 of their 
late sovereign. They were finally routed at Gartalunan, near Tilly 
Moss on the Forth, after which Dumbarton Castle was besieged 
for six weeks and surrendered to the king. In 1503, it is statute 
that the " landis of Buchquhanane, Fyntres, Campsy, Strablane, 
Buthrane, Drymane and Inchcalesch," should be held as attached 
to the sheriffdom of Dumbarton, and that their inhabitants should 
appear at the ^^ fef courts of justice" there. During the reigns of 
James IV. and V. Dumbarton was the chief naval station in the 
west. September 2, 1545, at the instance of Henry Lauder, Queen 
Mary's Lord Advocate, '^ Matthew Earl of Lennox, was sumond 
for certane poyts of tressoun and lese majestic at the croce of 
Dumbertane." This was for seizing 30,000 crowns with arms and 
ammunition sent from France for the use of the queen. Shortly 
after this period, renewed privileges seem to have been granted to 
the principal sea-ports in the west. In 1555 it is forbid to carry out 
of the kingdom " victuallis, talloun, or flesche," except that it "sal 
be leiful to the inhabitantis ofthe burrowis of Air, Irevin, Glasgow 
Dumbertane, and uthers at the west seyis (seas) to have bakin bread, 
browin aill, and aquavite (some spirituous liquor) to the ilis (isles,) 
to betour (or barter) with uther, merchandise, and this act to be 
extended to maisters and skipparis of sic veschillis, &c.'' Great 



248 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

encouragement seems also at this period to have been given to thef^ 
herring fisheries in Loch Fine and in the western seas. In the* 
same year it is stated, that the "hail burrowis of the westcountrioy 
sic as Irevin, Air, Dumbertane, Glasgow, and uther burrowis has 
zeirly in all times bygane, resorted to the fishery of Loch Fyne 
and other lochis in the north ilis for making of herring and uther 
fishis." To encourage this trade, no exaction was made " except 
the payment of the fishers." Some of the greedy lawless lairds 
on Loch Fyne, however, raised a heavy tax or custom on every 
" last of maid herring," — an impost very properly put down by act 
of Parliament. Between February 1547 and July 1548, the un- 
fortunate Queen Mary was in safe keeping in the Castle of Dum- 
barton, till she was embarked in the French gallies and conveyed 
to France. She visited the castle again in 1563. During the 
troubles which followed her dethronement, the castle of Dumbar- 
ton, 1568, was in the keeping of John Fleeming of Boghall. On the 
2d of April 1570 (not 2d May 1571 as stated by Chalmers,)the Castle 
of Dumbarton was surprized and taken by escalade. The principal 
aK!tors in this affair were John Cunninghame of Drumquhassil, 
Matthew Douglas of Mains, Captain Thomas Crawford of Jordan- 
hill. In the reign of Charles 1. 1641, these seven parishes ** Inch- 
calleoche, (Buchannan,) Drymen, Balfrone, Fintrie, Kilbirnie, 
Strablane, and Campsie, as settled by the 73d Act of James VI., 
and, for a long list of reasons given besides, were annexed to the 
sheriffdom of Dumbarton. In 1649, the parish of Kilpatrick was 
divided as at present. The title of the act is " Act in favours of the 
parish of Dumbartane anent the dividing the parish of Kilpatrick." 
The county of Dumbarton was particularly involved in Argyle's 
invasion in 1685. On the 11th June of that year, the Marquis of 
Athol, with 300 of the king's troops, engaged about 400 of Argyle's 
men, killed many of them, and put the rest to the rout, which 
obliged Argyle to make a similar march to Allangreg Castle, where 
he staid till the 15th of June, when he marched 6000 men to 
<* Lennox in Dumbartonshire," and thence to Killearn, within four 
miles of Dumbarton. Here Lord Dumbarton, commander-in- 
chief of the king's troops, was within three miles of Argyle's army, 
who, when he saw Dumbarton's army so numerous and well-mar- 
shalled, at night made fires over all his camp, and, by the light of 
them, decamped and dispersed all his people to their respective ha- 
bitations. The subsequent history of the unfortunate Earl is well 
known. He was taken by a private trooper in the water of Inch- 

3 



ON THE COUNTY OF DUMBARTON. 249 

idiMiDy brought a prisoner to Glasgow, and from thence to Edin- 
burghy where they made his Lordship come out of his coach at the 
Water-gate, and, with a halter round his neck, he was led by the. 
common hangmen, up the Canongate and High Street, and into 
the Castle ; and on the 1st of June, suffered by being beheaded at 
the Cross of Edinburgh* 

The inhabitants of this county made no particular display at 
the time of the Union ; and its history since may rather be said to 
be agricultural and commercial than political. 

General Remarks. — In a commercial point of view, Dumbarton- 
shire is of considerable importance, on account of various branches of 
industry, particularly for its bleachfields, cotton-spinning, glass- 
works, andalso foritsship-building. In its agriculture great improve- 
ments have of late taken place; the high demand from the Glasgow 
market having unquestionably operated as an inducement to under- 
take the improvement of the county lands. For this purpose, both 
proprietor and tenant have been obliged to enclose and lead manure^ 
lime especially, which has greatly augmented the demand for day 
labourers, the consequence of which has been a rise in the price of 
daily labour, as compared with former times, and also in the wages 
of country servants. The necessary result of all is a very conside- 
rable rise in the rent of land. And as the high price of grain, on 
the one hand, has animated the inhabitants of the country, 
so, on the other, it has excited the jealousy of those in the city, 
who conclude that, since high prices are very advantageous to the 
landed interests, they must be hurtful to trade. This idea, though 
perhaps an erroneous one, has, however, been attended with some 
advantages. It was for the purpose of cheapening the price of 
county produce that county roads were first thought upon ; and to 
accomplish the same object, the Clyde was deepened, and the Forth 
and Clyde Canal projected and carried through. It was in con- 
sequence of such speculations that agriculture itself, and a spirit 
for improvement of all sorts, began to be spread over this county. 
Spots, indeed, had been improved by individuals ; whereas now we 
often see an acre not worth half-a-crown formerly, let for L.3 or L.4 
or even L. 6 per annum, for three crops. A few proprietors then 
improved for their pleasure ; the body of our farmers are now be- 
ginning to follow their example, and seem to wish they were able 
to improve for gain. 

It may here be observed, that debauchery and drunkenness pre- 



250 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

vail but little in the county ; and were none allowed to sell beer 
and spirituous liquors, but such as take out licenses according to 
law, they would still prevail less than they do. 

The women, as in all districts, form a considerable class, and, from 
their industrious habits, many of them, when young and unmarried, 
are decently ornamented with the little superfluities of dress ; which 
they hold out probably as a fund at their disposal for the mainte- 
nance of children, in case any young admirer should choose to fancy 
them. Were it not, therefore, for the use of ribbands, and such 
Kttle ornaments now in fashion, a country lad could form no judg- 
ment of the industry and frugality of the young women of the pa- 
rish* Some shallow observers and pepper-corn politicians scout 
at the gaudy dresses of the country maiden, and abuse her for try- 
ing to *^ mimic a lady." This is a short-sighted policy. I call 
the buying of such superfluities as ribbands the greatest proof of 
frugality ; because every unnecessary expense must be cut off be- 
fore they can purchase an ornament, which, from the wedding day, 
the husband expunges out of the list of his wife's expenses ; as she 
had formerly expunged all other superfluities in order to acquire, 
what now she flnds to be superfluous. 

This county in its natural phases, and in its social character, is 
one of the most interesting in Scotland. In those beautiful arms 
of the sea. Loch Long and the Gare Loch, 

■ ■ " The Dolphin sports upon the tide, 

Displays his beauties and his scaly pride ; 
His various-coloured arch adorns the flood, 
IJkc a bright rainbow in a watery cloud.*' 

Her streams and lakes the most beautiful in this island, 

" A various rare supply, 
The bright-eyed perch, with fins of Tyrian dye ; 
The silver eel in shining volumes rolled, 
The yellow roach in scales bedropt with gold ; 
Swept trouts, diversified with crimson stains. 
And pikes the tyrants of the watery plains.'* 

To these agreeable features, 



<( 



-his proud head the airy mountain hides. 
.J- 1.1 1 ij J 1 • • « ' 



Amons the clouds, bis shoulder and his sides 
A shady mantle clothes.*' 

Among these woods, 

" The luscious pine, of humble growth, indeed. 
But of majestic form its mitred head 
Uprears.'* 

The oak and many other trees abound, all contributing, with 
the beautiful retreats of men, to add beauty and interest to the 
scene. 



ON THB COUNTY OF DtlMBABTON. 






innniaj') '<P!* 
mi joiBi;|mB,ij 



_J_ __ 

rti o o o crS"oo 



• '8 • • 'JS ' 



:l'i-:M 



11 

I; 

-I 

•si 

I 



S*JSSjS|S3 



S S 



3;!sis$^;sa;S3 









1-sr 



ll° nil 1 1 



252 
Table IL- 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS^ &C. 

•Showing the Fiars Prices of Dumbartonshire from 
1892 to 1888 inclusive. 





1892. 


1833. 


1834. 


1835. 


1836. 


1837. 


183a Average. 


« 


s. d. 


s. d. 


s. d. 


s. d. 


s. d. 


s. d. 


s. d. 


s. d. 


Wheat, 


51 1 


47 9 


39 9 


36 5 


48 6 


48 8 


58 11 


47 a^ 


Oats, 


18 7 


19 14 


20 3 20 9 


25 3 


20 9 


25 11 


21 6A 


Bear, 


27 59 
29 104 


25 9J 
28 64 


23 10 23 11 


27 5 


27 3 


31 10 


26 94 


Barley, 


28 1 


27 


30 7 


30 3 38 


30 4 


Pease & 








• 








Beans, 


81 44 


31 04 


32 


33 


44 6 


36 10 48 4 


36 81^ 


lOatmeal, 


14 8 


14 7 


15 6 


16 2 


22 8 


16 2 20 9 


17 n 



PEINTED BY JOHN ITABK, 
OLD ASiEMBLT CLOSE, EDINBUBGH. 



INDEX. 



Adam, John, bequest by, for the poor of 

Kirkintillodi, 209 
Agriculture and rural economy, 10, 24, 

58^ 77, 88^ 1^ 149, 168, 196, 216, 



Agriculture of the county, general ob- 

lenrationa on, 243 
Aldnid, ancient town of, 3 
Alexandria, Tillage of, 228 
AUander water, the, 38 
Anderson, Dr, birth-place of, 121 
Antiquitiea, 3, 20, 47, 75, 86, 116, 141, 

161,222 
Ardenconnell, plantations at, 67 
Ardincaple castle, 67, 75 
Ardmore house, 87 — ^promontory, 84 
Ardoch house, 87 
Argyle, Marquis of, his character, 119 — 

the second, 120 
Arrochar, parish of, 94 
Ash trees, remarkable, at BonhiU, 220 
Balfour of Burley, residence and death 
of, in Roseneath, 116 — descendants 
of, 119 
Balloch castle, ruins of, 223 
Balvie house, 49 
BanheaCh tower, ruins of, 186 
Basaltic pillars at Aucbentorlie, 17 
Batturich castle, 215 
Bedlay house, 173 
Ben Vorlich, 94 

Bleaching and print-works at Milton- 
field, 28 
Bloomfield house, 87 
Bonhill, parish of, 220— .village, 228 

Bord bum, the, 173— loch, 173 

Botany, 40, 72, 96, 113, 136, 158, 184 

Bowling bi^, 16 — village, 29 

Bridgend, village of, 88, 91 

Bruce, residence of, at Castlehill, 87 

Buchanan house, 213, 215 

Burying -place, ancient, at Auchenhe- 
glish, 222 

Buthland bum, the, 173 

Camis Eskan house, 87 

Campbell, Isabella, 121 

Campbell of Succoth, family of, 43 

Campbell, Sir Islay, 44 

Campsie Fells, 170 

Canal, the Portii and Clyde, 138— traf- 

DUMBARTON, 



fie on, 203— termination of, at Bow* 
ling bay, 16 

Cardross, parish of, 83— village of, 88 

Carstairs, Principal, 86 

Catter house, 215 

Cattle, see Live-Stock 

Chapelhill, termination of the Roman 
wall at, 21 — view firom, 17 

Character and habits of the people, 24, 
52, 88, 122, 148, 162 

Chemical works at Dalmuir, 28 

Cholera, ravages of, in Kirkintilloch, 
186 

Churches and Chapels, Established, see 
Ecclesiastical Statistics — Dissenting, 
see Dissenters 

Climate and meteorology, 2, 37, 68, 85, 
105, 137 

Climate and meteorology of the county, 
general observations on, 242 

Clober house, 49 

Clyde, scenery of, 15 

Coal deposits in Lenzie, 175 

Coffins, stone, found at Luss, 161 

Collieries of Cumbernauld, 136 — Dun- 
tocher, 20 — Garscube, 38 

Colquhoun of Killermont, family of, 43 

Colquhoun of Luss, family of, 160 

Colquhoun, Dr Patrick, 8 

Colquhouns, defeat of the, at Glenfruin, 
74, 156 

Crawford, Captain, capture of Dumbar- 
ton castle by, 4 

Crawford of Cowden hill, family of, 46 

Crosses, ancient, at Mount Blow, 22 — 
at Barrochan, 23 

Cumbernauld castle, 138 — parish of. 
135 — its history, dvil, 138^ — and ec- 
clesiastical, 14^— town of, 151 — col- 
lieries, 136 

Dairy husbandry, 25, 56 

Dalmuir bum, 17 — paper mills, 27 — 
soda works, 28 — villages, 29 

Dalnotter hill, view from, 16 

Danish remains at Knockderry, 116 

Dissenters and Dissenting chai>cls, 13, 
32, 60, 80, 92, 152, 206, 218, 226 

Douglas of Mains, family of, 42 

Douglas water, 96 

Dmmry peel and chapel, ruins of, 48 

R 



254 



DUMBARTONSHIRE. 



Dugalstone loch, 37 
Dumbuck, village of, 29 
Dumbartonshire, origin of the name, 1, 
229 — general observations on, 249 — 
agriculture, 243 — mountains, 230 — 
rivers 232-— lakes, 232 — geology, 235 
— past and present state, 246 — gene- 
ral view of its ecclesiastical state, 251 
i— fiars' prices for, 252 
Dumbarton abbey* ruins of, -6 — castle, 
1 — its history, 4 — moor, 213 — parish 
of, 1 — town of, 5, 11 — glass works, 
9, 11 

Dumfin fort, remains of, 161 

Duncruin hill, 212 

Dunglass castle, 16, 22 

Dunlop of Keppoch, family of, 86 

Duntocber glen, 16 — remains of Roman 
fort at, 21 — village of, 29 — quoad 
sacra parish of, 31 

Easter house, 119 

Ecclesiastical statistics, 12, 30, 60, 79, 
92, 127, 152. 166, 204, 217, 226 

Ecclesiastical statistics of the county, 
tabular view of, 251 

Education, statistics of, 13, 33, 61, 81, 
92, 100, 129, 153, 167, 208, 219, 226 

Endrick water, the, 211 

Erskine house, 16 

Faifley mills, 26— village, 29 

Fairs and markets, 14, 166, 210, 219 

Falloch wnteTf 96 

Faunyside loch, 137 

Faslane castle, 73 — chapel, ruins of, 75 

Finlass water, 156 

Finnart hill, 66 

Fish, shower of, at Castlehill, 37 

Fisheries, herring, 98, 125 — salmon, 10, 
91, 125 

Fleming of Cumbernauld, family of, 138 

Forth and Clyde canal, the, 138, 203— 
termination of, 16 

Freebaim, Rev. John, 8 

Freestone, see Quarries 
. Froon or Fruin water, the, 70 

Galbraith of Gartconnell, fumily of, 42 

Gallowhill, the, of Roseneath, 104 

Gareloch, the, 67, 70, 110 

Garscadden house, 49 

Garscube house, 38, 49 

Gartshore, family of, 191 

Gartiihore mortification for orphans, 209 

Geology and mineralogy, 17, 38, 70, 84, 
96, 110, 135, 158, 173— of the coun- 
ty, general outline of 235 

Glass works, the Dumbarton, 9, 11 

Glassford of Dugalstone, family of, 45 

Glenarbuck bouse, 16 

Glenfinlas, valley of, 156 

Glenfruin, battle of, 74, 156>— valley of, 
66 



Glorat house, 184 

Haco of Norway, his invasion, 160 

Hamilton, archbishop, capture and death 

of, 5 
Hardgate mills, 26 — village of, 29 
Helensburgh, town of, 79 
Heiring fisheries, 98, 125 
Husbandry, systems of, 55, 197 — dairy, 

25,56 
Ichthyology, 112 — see also Zoology 
Inchlonaig isle, 156 
Inchtavanacn, 156 
Inns nnd alehouses, and their effects, 14, 

35, 62, 82, 101, 131, 168, 210, 219 
Inveruglass water, 96 
Islands, various, in Lochlomond, 156 
Ironstone at Duntocber, 20 — Stron and 

Barrhill, 179— Westerwood, 136 
Keith, Viscount, bequest by, for poor of 

Cumbernauld, 154 
Kelvin water, the, 38, 172 
Keppoch house, 87 
Kiliter hills, the, 84 
Killermont house, 49 
Kilmahew house, 87 
Kilmardinny house, 49 
Kilmaronock, palish of, 21 1 
Kilpatrick, New or East, parish of, 36 

ministers of, from first settlement, 41 

— Old, parish of, 15 — Braes, 16, 36 

village of, 15, 29 
Kilsyth, site of the battle of, 142 
Kirkintilloch, parish of, 168— collieries 

and iron mines in, 175 — town of. 200 

— ^its manufactures, 195, 199 gaa 

works, 204<— mortality from cholera 

in, 186 
Knockderry, remains of Danish fort at, 

116 
Law, Rev. Robert, 41 
Lennox, family of, 73 
Lcnzie, district of, 173 — its geology, 173 

— reversed coal basin in, 175 
Leven water, 2, 220— navigation of, 11 
Libraries and literature, 13, 34, 62, 93: 

131, 154, 167. 219, 228 
Live-stock, breeds of, 24, 54, 90, 124, 

150, 164,223 
Limestone, see Quarries 
Lochlomond, 95, 157, 232— depths of, 

iu various places, 95, 232— encroach- 

raents of, on the land, 233 — ishuids 

in, 156 
Lochlong, 66, 70, 95 
Lochs, the Bord, 1 73^ Dugalstone, 37 

— Fannyside, 137— Gareloch, 67, 70 

—Lomond, 95, 156, 232— Long, 67, 

70, 95— St Germains, 37— Sloy, 284 
Longevity, instances of, 124 
Love, John, 7 
Luggie water, the, 137, 172 



INDEX. 



255 



Lurg chapd, ruins of, 49 

LuMy paiisb of, 155 — village, 165 — 

water, 156 
M'Laurin, Rev. John, 160 
Manufiustures, cotton, at Duntocher, &c- 
25 — at Kirkintilloch, 199 — various, 
29,58 
Manufactures of the county, general out- 
line of, 245 
Markets, see Fairs 
Mechanics* institute, the Leven, 227 
Menteith, Sir John, the betrayer of Wal- 
lace, 4 
Meteorological annals and tables ^m 

1704, 170 
Meteorology, see Climate 
Milngavie, or Millguy, village of, 50, 59, 

64 
MUton, village of, 29 
Miltonfield, print and bleachfield at, 28 
Mineralogy, see Geology 
Minerals, list of, found in the Kilpatrick 

braes, 19, 89 
Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway, the, 

202 
Moore, Mrs, bequest by, for poor of Car- 
dross, 93 
Mountains and hills — Ben Vorlich, 94 — 
Cantpsie, 170— Dalnotter, 16— Dun- 
cruin, 212— Finnart, 66— Kiliter, 84 
Kilpatrick, 16, 36— Mount Misery, 
212, of the county, 231 
Murroch glen, 2 
Nemthor, site of, 36 
Netherton, quarries of, 57 
Norwegians, invasion of the, 160 
Paper mills of Dalmuir, 27 — Kilpatrick, 

58 
Pauperism, see Poor, 
Plantations and planting, 53, 90, 184 
Poor, management of the, 14, 34, 62, 
81, 93, 100, 129, 153, 167, 209. 119 
Population returns, 8, 23, 50, 76, 88, 

97, 121, 148. 162, 189, 216, 223 
Popidation, character of, see Character 
Printfields, various, on the Leven, 224 
Quarries, freestone, 2, 57, 164 — lime- 
stone, 2, 135 — slate, 1 64-— whinstone, 
19 
Railviiiys, the Edinburgh and Glasgow, 
211 — the Monkland and Kirkintilloch, 
202 
Rebels, the, at Kirkintilloch in 1745, 

186 
Rent of land, rates of, 10, 24, 53, 78, 

98, 124, 163 
Renton, village of, 88, 91, 228 
Riots at Kilpatrick in 1797, 41 
Rivers and waters — Allander, 38 — 
Bord, na^Buthhind, 173— Clyde, 



15, 234— Dalmuir, 17— Douglas, 96 
Endrick, 211— Falloch, 96— Finlass, 
156 — Froonor Fruin, 70— Inveruglass, 
96— Kelvin, 38, 172— Leven, 2, 11, 
220— Luggie, 137, 172— Luss, 156 
Roman altar at Nethercroy, 141 — fort at 
Duntocher, 21, 188 — remains at Cas- 
tlehill, 47 — at Dumbarton, 4 — at 
Kilpatrick, 20, 22— wall, the great, 
140, 186 — its termination at ClMipel- 
hill, 20, 47 
Roseneath castle, the old, 1 1 7 — the new, 
118 — parish of, 102— improvements 
in, 132 — scenery of, 104 
Ross priory, 215 
Ross-dhu house, 156, 161 
Row, parish of, 65 

St David's, quoad sacra parish of, 207 
St Germains' loch, 37 
St Mackerisog, martyrdom and memori- 
als of, 161 
St Patiick, birth-place of, 15 
Salmon fisheries, 10, 90, 125 
Savings banks, ^1, 154, 167 
Schools, see Education 
Sbandon castle, ruins of, 75 
Shells, bed of fossil, found in the sand- 
stone, 18 
Ship-building, establishments for, at 

Bowling, 29 
Slate quarries, 164 

Sloy loch, the gathering-placc of the 
* Macfarlanes, 234 
SmoUet ofBonhill, family of, 86— Sir 

James, 6 — the novelist, 7 
Society, the agricultural, of Luss, 164 
Societies, friendly and benefit, 14, 34, 

154, 226 
Stewart, Rev. Matbcw, birth-place of, 

121 
Stuart, Rev. Dr, 160 
Towe hill, remains ut, 142 

Towns and villages-i-Alexandria, 228 

Bonhill, 228— Bowling. 29— Bridg- 
end, 88, 91— Cardross, 88 — Cumber- 
nauld, 151 — Dalmuir, 29 — Dumbar- 
ton, 5, 11 — Dumbuck, 29— Dunto- 
cher, 29— Fuifley, 29— Hardgate, 29 
Helensburgh, 79— Kilpatrick, 15, 29 
— Kirkintilloch, 200— Luss, 163— 
Milngavie, 50, 59— Milton, 29— Ren- 
ton, 88, 91, 228— Yoker, 15, 29 
Trees, remarkable, 40— at Bonhill, 220 
Tumuli, ancient, at Dasholm, 47 — at 

Sommer, 222 
Wages, rates of, 10, 24, 54, 98, 124, 163 
Wallace's leap, tradition relating to, 116 
Woods, see Plantations 
Yoker, village of, 15, 29 
Zoology, 2, 40, 71, 96, 111, 137, 183 



PRINTED BY JOHN STARK, 
ALV ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDlNBURdiii. 



STIRLING. 



CONTENTS. 



AIRTH, 

ALVA, 

BALDERNOCK, 

BALFRON, 

BOTHKENNAR, 

BUCHANAN, 

CAMPSIE, 

DENNY, 

DRYMEN, 

DUNIPACE, 

FALKIRK, 

FINTRY, 

GARGUNNOCK, 

KILLEARN, 

KILSYTH, 

KIPPKN, 

LARBERT, 

LOGIE, . 

ML'IRAVONSIDE, 

POLMONT, 

SLAMANAN, 

STIRLING, 

ST NINIANS, 

STRATUBLANE, 



PAGE 28 
175 
169 

288 

201 

89 

234 

115 

99 

379 

1 

38 

48 

60 

138 

264 

340 

214 

205 

191 

273 

390 

303 

71 




.. flL.t^K^ 



PARISH OF FALKIRK.* 

PRESBYTBUY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. WILLIAM BEGG, ) 

THE REV. THOMAS GORDON, 2rf Cof^regation, [ Ministers. 

THE REV. JAMES W. TAYLOR, Grangemouth, ) 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Nanuj Boundaries^ Sfc. — Falkirk appears to have been a town 
of some note in the eleventh century. The origin and etymology 
of the name are involved in much obscurity. The town is supposed 
to have been at one time denominated EccUsbrae^ or the C^iurch 
on the Brow, as descriptive of its situation. In the Gaelic language 
it is called Eglais bhrisf or the fallen church, and sometimes Eglais 
hhreCf signifying the spotted church. The name last mentioned 
has been translated Fario SacellOf and as such appears in charters 
of a comparatively recent date, supposed to have arisen from 
the colour of the stones used in the building, or from the diffe- 
rent kinds of architecture of which it was composed. Another sup- 
position is, that the present name is formed of the Latin word ra/- 
Adr, and the Saxon, kirk, originating in the circumstance, that the 
church stands on or near the line of the ancient wall of Antoninus. 
The parish of Falkirk is situated in the eastern division of the 
county of Stirling, is separated from the Frith of Forth by a small 
part of the parish of Polmont, and extends about nine miles in 
lengthi and from two to 6ve in breadth. It is bounded on the 
east, by the parishes of Polmont and Muiravonside ; on the south, 
by Muiravonside and Slamannan ; on the west, by Cumbernauld 
and Denny ; and on the north, by the river Carron, which di- 
vides it from Dunipace, Larbert, and Bothkennar. The course 
of the Carron, however, having, many years ago, in several 
places^ been altered, some parts of this parish are now on the 
northern side ; and certain small parts of the parishes of Larbert 
ud Bothkennar are on the southern, or Falkirk side of the river. 

* Dimim up by John BurnB, Esq. Writer, Falkirk. 
tnRUNOk A 



PARISH OF FALKIRK.* 

PRESBYTBUY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. WILLIAM BEGG, ) 

THE REV. THOMAS GORDON. 2d Cor^regation, V Ministers. 

THE REV. JAMES W. TAYLOR, Grangemouth, ) 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Namej Boundaries, Sfc. — Falkirk appears to have been a town 
of some note in the eleventh century. The origin and etymology 
of the name are involved in much obscurity. The town is supposed 
to have been at one time denominated Eccksbrae, or the C^iurch 
on the Brow, as descriptive of its situation. In the Gaelic language 
it is called Eglais bhris, or the fallen church, and sometimes Eglais 
bhrec, signifying the spotted church. The name last mentioned 
has been translated Fario SacellOf and as such appears in charters 
of a comparatively recent date, supposed to have arisen from 
the colour of the stones used in the building, or from the diffe- 
rent kinds of architecture of which it was composed. Another sup- 
position is, that the present name is formed of the Latin word ra/- 
lum, and the Saxon, kirk, originating in the circumstance, that the 
church stands on or near the line of the ancient wall of Antoninus. 
The parish of Falkirk is situated in the eastern division of the 
county of Stirling, is separated from the Frith of Forth by a small 
part of the parish of Polmont, and extends about nine miles in 
length, and from two to five in breadth. It is bounded on the 
east, by the parishes of Polmont and Muiravonside ; on the south, 
by Muiravonside and Slamannan ; on the west, by Cumbernauld 
and Denny ; and on the north, by the river Carron, which di- 
vides it from Dunipace, Larbert, and Bothkennar. The course 
of the Carron, however, having, many years ago, in several 
places, been altered, some parts of this parish are now on the 
northern side ; and certain small parts of the parishes of Larbert 
and Bothkennar are on the southern, or Falkirk side of the river. 



STIRLING. 



* Dravrn up by John Burns, Esq. Writer, Falkirk. 

A 



2 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

The parish is of an oblong shape, stretching from the north-east 
to the south-west ; and about four miles to the south, it is indented 
by parts of Polmont and Cumbernauld on the east and west, in 
nearly opposite directions. 

Topographical Appearances. — From the eminence on which the 
town is situated, northward to the river Carron, forming about a 
third part of the parish, the ground is perfectly flat, and consists 
of fertile carse soil in the higrhest state of cultivation. For a con- 
siderable space southward from the town, the country rises gra- 
dually to the height of about 600 feet above the level of the sea. 
Of this district the greater part is arable, and is diversifled by 
wood of natural growth, and by thriving plantations. Near to the 
southern boundary, there is an extensive moss, which gives to that 
part of the parish a dreary aspect. To the east and west of the 
town the ground is of an undulating shape, and is in general in an 
improved state. From the heights on the south a view may be 
obtained, scarcely excelled in Scotland for richness, variety, and 
extent. In the north-west, and at the distance of thirty miles, are 
to be seen Benledi and Benvoirlich, raising their lofty heads in 
wild sublimity. Within a more contracted range, circumscribed 
by the high grounds above Kilsyth and Denny, and by the Ochils 
and the Salitxe hills, many interesting objects meet the eye in a 
landscape studded with stately mansions, and with several towns 
and villages, while the broad expanse of the Forth intersects, en- 
livens, and beautifies the scene. When viewed from the north 
also, the town and wooded rising-grounds behind are picturesque 
and imposing. 

Climate^ Sfc, — The climate of the parish, upon the whole, is mild 
and temperate, although cold easterly winds generally prevail in 
spring and the beginning of summer. These have been the cause 
of great injury to vegetation, and render the fruit crop very pre- 
carious. In some seasons the verdure of the hedge-rows on the 
sides exposed to the north and east, has been entirely destroyed. 
Near the centre of the parish, there is more warmth than either 
to the north or south. At Grangemouth, when the wind blows 
from the sea, the air is extremely cold, while it is mild in the 
interior. On the approach of winter and during the early spring 
months, snow frequently covers the ground in the higher parts, 
when it is unknown in the lower. The parish is remarkably 
healthy. There are no diseases peculiar to it, and many of 
the inhabitants live to a good old age. At one time, fever and 



FALKIRK. 3 

ague were prevalent to a considerable extent, especially in the 
Carse ; but now, from the superabundant moisture being drained 
off, and probably from the condition of the population being im« 
proved, ague is quite unknown. 

Mineralogy. — Coal is found in the higher districts, in such 
abundance as not only to be sufficient for home consumption, but 
quantities are sent by the Union Canal for the supply of the me- 
tropolis. Ironstone, limestone, and sandstone are found in the 
same districts with the coal, one stratum of limestone being often 
found above, and another below a stratum of coal. Veins of ores of 
silver, copper, lead, and cobalt are said to have been raised at diffe- 
rent periods, but not in considerable quantities. In some parts of 
the Carse, borings have been made, not to such a depth as to enable 
us to speak with certainty respecting the mineral contents ; but 
as the locality is almost in the centre of the great northern coal 
basin, there is every i*ea8on to believe that coal may there be found, 
and oS good quality. 

Hydrography.'^ h& already stated, the parish is bounded on the 
north by the Carron. This river, famed in Celtic antiquities, 
and rendered classic from its connection writh incidents in Scottish 
history, takes its rise in the central parts of the county. It flows 
in an easterly direction with a sinuous course for about fourteen miles, 
and joins the Forth a little below the port of Grangemouth. At 
full tide, it is navigable for vessels of 200 tons burden, as far as the 
village of Carronshore, which may be two miles from its embou- 
chure. Above this it is a transparent stream, and abounds with 
trout, perch, eels, &c. ; but farther down it has a muddy bed, by 
which the water is discoloured. ^ It seeks its way to the Forth 
through a deposit of the richest alluvial matter. 

A rivulet at Castlecary divides the parish on the west from 
Cumbernauld, in the county of Dumbarton. Here there is a cas- 
cade of eighty feet in height, embowered in overhanging woods. 
A little to the northward, the rivulet joins Bonnywater, separating 
this parish from Denny and from a part of Dunipace. This stream 
falls into the Carron, about a mile below the village of Bonnybridge. 

The Grange-burn divides the parish from Polmont for two miles 
on the east. It has its rise in the upper part of the parish of Pol- 
mont, and, running northward, unites with the Carron near Grange- 
mouth. Formerly its junction was at that*town, but, by a recent 
alteration, afterwards described, the stream joins the Carron far- 
ther down. 



4 STIKJLINGSHIUE. 

There are several other small rivulets or bums which 6nd their 
vray to the Carron. The only one of these worth noticing, is the; 
Light-water-burn, near to the village of Camelon. This streamlet 
flows in the centre of what, to all appearance, must at some remote 
period, have formed the bed of a considerable river. The regular 
banks on each side, with the different windings, distinctly show 
this, and in the vicinity the face of the country has every appear- 
ance of a sea coast. Bays, headlands, and other similar indications 
may be easily traced. Close by, is the site of the ancient city 
of Camelon, which tradition represents to have been a sea-port, 
and where fragments of anchors and ancient boats have been found 
imbedded in the soil. The sea is now four or five miles distant. 

There are three small lochs in the upper parts of the parish, 
but in regard to them nothing remarkable can be stated. 

II. — Civil History. 

Historical Events, — Situated on the boundary betwixt the Ro- 
man possessions on the south, and those of Caledonia on the 
north, many sanguinary encounters took place in ancient times in 
this parish. Among these, there was one in the year 415, in which 
Robert Graham, a commander under King Fergus II., fell, while 
repelling the Roman forces ; and from this event the Wall of An- 
toninus, originally formed in a. d. 140, is supposed to have re- 
ceived the appellation, which it bears to this day, of Graham's Dyke. 
From the inscription upon a slab of marble found at taking down 
the old church in 1810, it appears that Graham was buried in the 
adjoining church-yard. 

On the north of the town, and near to where the village of Grahams- 
ton now stands, a battle was fought on 22d July 1298, between 
the forces of Edward I. of England, and the Scots, led on by the 
patriotic and undaunted William Wallace. The attack on each 
side was violent, but, overpowered by superior numbers, the Scots 
retreated, and, crossing the river Carron, marched northward. In 
this battle Sir John Graham of DundaflF and Sir John Stewart of 
Bonkill, commanders in the Scottish army, were slain, and were 
both interred in the church-yard, where their grave-stones are still 
to be seen. 

In the reign of James III. the town was for some time occupied 
by the army of the discontented Lords, who had risen in rebellion 
against that monarch. His Majesty intended to have attacked them 
there. They, however, anticipated his purpose, and met him at 



FALKIRK. 5 

Sauchie-burn, near Stirling, where the conflict took place, which 
terminated in his defeat and death. 

While Queen Mary was yet an infant, Henry VIII. cherished 
the hope of subjugating Scotland by her union in marriage with 
his soq^ Edward. The ELarl of Arran, then Regent, favoured the 
scheme ; but Cardinal Beaton and the Earl of Murray were its 
determined opponents. These personages agreed to have a meet- 
ing at Falkirk on 4th September 1543 ; and at Callendar House 
a treaty was signed, which put an end to the proposal. 

This celebrated but unfortunate ^ovdreign appears to have been 
on an intimate footing with the iamily of Callendar. On the 1 2th 
of August 1562*, she dined there with a part of her train on her 
way to the north ; and on 1st July J 565, she stood godmother to 
the inbnt Baron of Callendar, son of William, sixth Lord Livmg- 
stone. She slept at Callendar with the infant Prince James, on 
the night of the Idth January 1567, and again on the 24th of the 
same month, when on her way to visit her husband Darnley, then 
ill of the small-pox at Glasgow ; with whom she returned to Fal- 
kirk on the 28th, and proceeded to Edinburgh on the following 
day. Soon after this, Mary was a captive at Lochleven. After 
her escape from thence, Lord Livingstone was one of those who 
welcomed her on her arrival at Niddry Castle ; and on the field of 
Langside, distinguished himself by his gallant conduct at the head 
of his vassals, composed of inhabitants of Falkirk. He rode with 
the Queen from that fatal field, and, along with her, was confined 
in different prisons by Elizabeth. At Bolton they were joined by 
Lady Livingstone, who, with her husband, were for several years 
the principal attendants, or rather companions, of the captive 
Queen. In 1573, they were both released from their sufferings 
by death, and their remains were conveyed to Falkirk for inter- 
ment 

In the nonage of James VI., Scotland was for some time go- 
verned by the Earl of Morton, a function which, from the unpo- 
pularity of his measures, he was induced to resign. Having, how- 
ever, obtained possession of the King's person, and of the Castle 
of Stirling, his friends came to his assistance, and the Earl pitched 
his camp at Falkirk. Thither the army of his enemies soon re- 
sorted. When ready to engage, a truce was agreed to, followed 
by a treaty, which was published .at the market-crosses of Stirling 
and Falkirk, on 14th August 1578. 

The year 1638 was remarkable as the period in which the 



6 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Solemn League and Covenant was subscribed by persons of all 
ranks throughout the Lowlands of Scotland. The measure was 
opposed by Charles L, and the Covenanters had recourse to arms. 
Voluntary contributions in aid of the cause were collected at the 
doors of the parish churches. The sum of L.158, 1 Is. 2d. Scots 
was raised by this parish, and from thence numbers flocked to join 
the army. Among these were Alexander Livingstone the Laird 
of Bantaskine, and Mr Thomas Spittal the minister, the former 
of whom fell in battle. In Falkirk the Covenant was subscribed 
with much solemnity. A table was placed before the pulpit on 
which the deed lay, and the elders were stationed at the entrances 
of the church, who ushered in the intending subscribers.* 

James, the first Earl of Callendar, was a staunch adherent of 
King Charles, and became a commander in the army which march- 
ed to relieve him when a prisoner in the Isle of Wight, being at- 
tended by a body of his Falkirk retainers. His army having been 
discomfited, the Earl retired to Holland; but his Falkirk troop 
valiantly forced their way through the victorious republicans. On 
their return home, they were summoned before the congregation, 
at the instance of the kirk-session, and were publicly ** admonish- 
ed'' for being upon what is called *^ the late unlawful engadge- 
ment." The session record contains the names of seventy-seven 
of the persons so dealt with. Among these, the names of Sir 
William Livingstone of Westquarter, and of other gentlemen ap- 
pear. 

The plague which broke out in Scotland in 1645, raged 
with great violence at Falkirk. It was supposed to have been 
introduced from Edinburgh. Those infected were confined to 
their houses tty command of the kirk-session, and were not al- 
lowed to have any intercourse with their neighbours. These re- 
strictions continued until the pestilence had disappeared, and their 
houses, clothes, and furniture been fumigated at the change of the 
moon, by " smeikers and cleansers," who were brought from Lin- 
lithgow and Borrowstounness. The session ordered that no per- 
son without testimonials should enter the bounds of their juris- 
diction from Leitb or Edinbuigh. The dead were interred in 

* On this subject there is the following entry in the records of the kirk-session . 
October 31 st 1648 : ** It is ordained that on Sunday, when the Covenant shall be 
subscribed, the persons following shall attend the several parts of the kirk, vis :— - 
To attend the north aisle, "Wastquarter and Patrick Grindlay ; to attend the wast 
end of the kirk, John Monteath and John Wyse ; to attend the east end, Walter 
Soott and Patrick Guidlat; to attend the wast loft, Alexander Watt and Hew Hidl; 
to attend the east loft, Robert Burn and Patrick Guidlat." 



FALKIRK. 7 

Graham's Muir, on the north of ihe town, each grave being cover- 
ed with a flat stone, and the whole were enclosed with a stone- 
walL The relics were removed, about fifty years ago, by the then 
occupier of the field. After the fatal battle of Dunbar, Crom- 
well marched to the Torwood in this neighbourhood, in pursuit of 
the army of Charles II. On his way he stormed and took posses- 
sion of Callendar House, where the King had a garrison. The 
slaughter was great, and on removal of the old gates by the 
late proprietor, numbers of human bones were dug out, probably 
the remains of those who had fallen at the siege. The republican 
troops were guilty of many excesses, — plundering the houses, and 
turning the churches into stables for their horses. The church 
of Falkirk shared the general devastation. ^* September 23d, 
1655, Ordains those whose seats were broken down in the kirk in 
the tyme of the troubles, should com and own thaim, and repair 
thaim, otherways the session will dispone upon them." This, and 
similar notices to be found in the parish records, illustrates the 
manners of the times and the effects of war. 

Alexander, second Earl of Callendar, was a zealous Covenanter, 
and a copy of the Solemn League is still preserved in Falkirk, 
bearing his signature, with that of many others. On two different 
occasions, the troops of Government took possession of his house ; 
but, in the last of these, in 1678, a mob from Falkirk put the in- 
truders to flight. The other branch of the Livingstone family ad- 
hered to the Royal cause, and members of it were engaged at the 
battle of Bothwell Bridge, and otherwise against the Covenanters.* 

The events connected with the chivalrous attempt of Prince 
Charles Edward to regain the throne of his ancestors, next made 
this parish conspicuous in history. On 17th January 1746, a battle 
was fought on the moor about a mile south-west from the town, 
on ground now traversed by the Union Canal and the Edinburgh 
and Glasgow Railway. The parties were the Highlanders under 
the Prince, and the Royal forces commanded by General Hawley. 
Both armies were well matched in point of numbers, each con- 
sisting of about 8000 men, and the day terminated in the total 
defeat of the Government troops, with 280 killed and wounded. 
The irregular nature of the ground and other causes led to the 
discomfiture of Hawley ; but after the battle of Falkirk, Charles's 

• Tlie writer has been indebted lor scrcral of the foregoing statements to the p^es 
o£ the FaUdrk Magazine,— a publication which issued from the local press in 18^7 ; 
but was discontinued after reaching the seventh number. 



8 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

success terminated. Amongst the slain in the Royal army were 
Sir Robert Munro of Foulis, Baronet, and his brother Dr Munro, 
to whose memory a splendid monument was erected near the cen- 
tre of the church-yard. Many incidents in regard to this eventful 
day have been handed down. One of these may be mentioned. 
On the day following^ a son of the chief of Glengarry, who had 
been engaged in the conflict, was accidentally shot from a window 
in the principal street of the town. He was carried to his lodg- 
ings in the near neighbourhood, in a house then possessed by an 
ancestor of the writer of this article, where he lingered for several 
days, and, after every attention paid to him, he expired, and was 
interred in the church-yard.* 

During the revolutionary excitement which pervaded the lower 
orders in the year 1820, a skirmish took place on a rising ground 
four miles westward of the town, which has been called the battle 
of Bonnymuir. On Wednesday, the 25th of April, a party of 
armed Radicals, chiefly from Glasgow, were overtaken near to 
the scene of action by Lieutenant Hodgson of the 10th Hussars, 
and Lieutenant Davidson of the Stirlingshire Yeomanry Cavalry, 
with a detachment of their respective corps. On observing this 
force the Radicals cheered, and advanced to a wall, over which 
they commenced firing at the military. They were soon, bow- 
-jfmVf overpowered, and nineteen of them were taken prisoners 
and lodged in Stirling Castle. In the- encounter Lieutenant 
Hodgson received a pike wound through the right hand, and a 
sergeant in the Hussars was severely wounded by a shot in the 
side and by a pike. Several of the Radicals were also wound- 
ed, and three horses. In this aflair, five muskets, two pistols, 
and about one hundred round of ball cartridge were taken by the 
military. The result showed the hopelessness of any attempt on 
the part of the Radicals to cope with regular troops, and the dis- 
turbances of that period speedily subsided. 

Eminent Characters. — The family of Livingstone has been long 
distinguished in this quarter. It is supposed to have had its ori- 
gin about the year 1075, and to be of Hungarian extraction. In 
course of time, it branched out into the three families of Lin- 
lithgow, Callendar, and Kilsyth. At the period of the Rebellion 

* The bouse from which the shot came was scTeral years ago taken down and re- 
built by the writer of this account. The death of this young officer was occasioned 
by one of his own men whose gun had missed fire during the engagement ; and 
while cleaning his piecci the shot went off '* at the expense of a life he would have 
done much to save." 

3 



FAI.KIRK. 9 

in 17 15, the titles of Linlithgow and Callendar centred in James, 

fifth Sari of Linlithgow, and fourth Earl of Callendar. He and 

William, third Viscount Kilsyth, having joined in that rebellion, 

thOT^ estates were confiscated and their titles forfeited. The Earl 

escaf>«d to the continent, where he died. Sir Thomas Livingstone 

of Westquarter and Bedlormie, Bart., is said to be his lineal de- 

scendaot The estate of Callendar was sold about the year 1720 

to the York«Buildings Company, whose affairs having become 

disordered, it was brought to sale under authority of the Court 

of Session in 1783^ and was purchased by the late William Forbes, 

^•» merchant in London, father of the present proprietor. 

William Boyd, fourth Earl of Kilmarnock, married I^dy Anne 

Livingstone, only surviving child of the above-mentioned James 

^1 of Linlithgow and Callendar. He connected himself with 

tue Rebellion of 1745, and having been convicted of high treason, 

^&s beheaded at London on 18th August 1746, in the 42d year 

^f bis age, and his remains were interred in the Tower. While 

^ Estate was the property of the York-Buildings Company, they 

S^'^ted a lease of it to the Earl and his Countess^ which expired 

^^t, the year 1777. 

''^oe estate of Kerse, now belonging to the Earl of Zetland^ 

was formerly the property of the family of Hope."^ In 1688, 

JJ '•''^^ purchased by Sir Thomas Hope, King's Advocate, from 

/^."^ AVilliam Livingstone of Kilsyth. By destination it fell to 

^ ^^cond son, Sir Thomas Hope, one of the Lords of Session, 

, ^^ afterwards Lord Justice-General. The estate was purchased 

f^^'^Jf years ago by Lawrence Dundas, Esq., merchant in Edin- 

-."'Si), who was created a Baronet in 1762: and, in 1794, his son, 

^ Thomas, was advanced to the Peerage under the title of Lord 

^das. He died in 1820, and was succeeded by his son, Law- 

^'^^^ who, in 1838, had conferred on him the title of Earl of 

^*^nd. In consequence of his death in the following year, the 

^^t« and honours devolved on his son, Thomas, the present Earl. 

' "^^mes Wilson, D. D., minister of the parish, was a native 

^ '^iQLnarkshire ; became pastor of a Dissenting chapel at Stock- 

P^^ in England ; was translated to Mid-Calder in 1793, and to 

^^^Virk in 1794 He died in 1829. In 1801, he published a 

"^^ry of Egypt in three volumes, and, in 1819, Prayers for Fa- 

O^^W and Individuals. Besides these, he was the author of some 

soudler publications. He had a numerous family, all of whom 



10 STIRLINGSHIRE, 

predeceased him, excepting one son, the present minister of Irvine 
who is the author of several works in Theology. 

Mr William Symington of the Wanlockhead mines, invento 
of a method of moving wheel-carriages by steam, constructed 
in 1802, a steam-vessel for the Forth and Clyde Canal, wbici 
towed two loaded sloops of seventy tons burden each, from Loci 
No. 20, to Port Dundas, a distance of 19^ miles, in six houn 
against a head wind. It appeared, however, that the agitation o 
the water would destroy the canal banks, and the design was laii 
aside. Mr Symington lived many years in Falkirk, and died ii 
London a few years ago. 

The Rev. John Brown Patterson, A. M., was ordained ministe 
of this parish in 1830. He was a native of Alnwick, in North 
umberland. He became distinguished as the author of an Essay oi 
the National Character of the Athenians, which gained the priz 
of one hundred guineas, offered in 1827 by the Commissioner 
for visiting the Universities of Scotland. He died in 1835, am 
his remains lie interred in the porch leading into the churcli 
where an elegant monument has been erected to his memorj 
Since his death, memoirs of his life, with a selection from his dis 
courses, have been published in two volumes ; and, more recentl} 
a volume of lectures. * 

Henry Belfrage, D. D., was a native of this parish, being a soi 
of the Rev. John Belfrage, minister of the Associate Congrega 
tion in Falkirk. He was ordained colleague and successor to hi 
father in 1794, and died iu 1835. He published several volume 
of sermons and other theological works. 

James Walker, Esq., LL. D., the celebrated engineer, Lon 
don, was born and educated in Falkirk. His father was a re 
spectable merchant in the town, and was proprietor and occupie 
of an extensive farm in the neighbourhood. 

The Rev. James Burns, A. M. was a native of Falkirk. Whil 
at college he gained several prizes. He was ordained to the firs 
charge of the parish of Brechin in 1798, and was the author of th 
Account of that parish, which appeared in the firstnumber of thi 
work, — besides other publications. He died on 2d January 1837 

Commodore Charles Napier was born at Merchistonhall in thi 
parish. He is renowned for the part he acted in the late brillian 
affair of St Jean D' Acre, and for other martial achievements. 

* He was succeeded as minister of the parisli by the Rev. Alexander Melvi]lc 
who was ordained on 2*2d January 18d6| and died on 2d December 1839. 

4 



FALKIRK. 11 

Land'Cumeri, — The chief land-owners are, William Forbes of 
CaHendar ; the Earl of Zetland ; Sir Thomas Livingstone, Bart ; 
Henry. Stainton, Esq. London ; Carron Company ; The Union Ca- 
nal Company; Heirs of Joseph Stainton, Esq. ; John R Ralston 
ofEllrig, John Strachan of Thornton, Yorkshire; John Callan- 
der of Woodbum ; Alexander Macfarlane of Thornhill ; Robert 
Russell of Dalnair, Thomas C. Hagart of Bantaskine ; Andrew 
Speirs of Lochgreen ; Thomas Marshall of Broomhill ; General 
Straiten of Underwood ; John Baird of Camelon ; Henry Salmon 
of Bonnyside ; and the Rev. Thomas Sworde, Rector of Thetford. 

Parochial Registers* — The date of the earliest entry is 4th Ja- 
nuary 1594. They are voluminous, and have been regularly kept 
until the present time. 

i!h<i^iii7{e«.— -Under this head, may be noticed the ruins of the 
pr^sidia or forts which were built by Agricola in the 80th year of 
the Christian era, for securing his conquests on the south. These 
forts appear to have been erected in the same track where Anto- 
i^UB afterwards formed the wall now called Graham^s Dyke. At 
^>a^ecary, the remains of one of these forts is still to be seen. 
^ey cover six acres of ground, now forming a grass field, being 
v^Ited underneath. Part of the foundation of the fort still con- 
tinues, and many of the square stones of which it was built are 
^^ in the enclosure of the field. At Roughcastle, two miles 
^ward, another of these forts was placed, but of which no ves- 
^%^ can be discovered ; and its situation is only marked by a slight 
elevation of the ground. About half a mile north-west of the mo- 
<lem village of Camelon, there are said to have been the ruins of 
^ rortification or camp; but, as the ground has long been under til- 
'^^no remains of it are visible. What is commonly called the 
^U» consisted of a ditch or vallum^ having a wall on (he south, 
^^^ was formed of the earth thrown out in digging the ditch. 
^^**^*^ with inscriptions have been dug up in various parts of it, 
*Dich throw light on its history, several of which are in the Col- 
*^8^ of Glasgow. Traces of the ditch are to be seen in various 
P<^8 eastward from Castlecary, and also in the grounds of Mr 
*^^bes, and of Mr HagarU It is particularly conspicuous in Cal- 
lendar Park, and at Laurieston. About a mile east of that village, 
*^ inters the parish of Polmont. A Roman highway entered the 
parish at Castlecary fort, and ran along the south side of Graham's 
%ke. Half a mile east of Roughcastle, it crossed the wall 
o' Antoninus, and came to the ancient station at Camelon, from 
^liicb it held on to the river Carron, where it entered the pa- 



12 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

lish of Larbert. Some parts of it remain, and are now used as a 
road. At the time of cutting the Forth and Clyde Canal, which 
is at no great distance, a Roman granary or cell was discovered, 
which contained a considerable quantity of wheat of a blackish 
colour. Portions of this wheat are in the possession of different 
individuals in the neighbourhood. 

The old tower or keep of the Castle of Castlecary is still^in 
tolerable repair, and is inhabited by the Earl of Zetland's forester. 
The other parts of the building are in ruins. It is a very ancient 
structure, and the tradition is, that it was built in the time of the 
Romans. 

In the course of the excavations at Grangemouth, two verte- 
brae of a whale were discovered imbedded in the clay. Irately, when 
digging clay at the Earl of Zetland's brickfield, about three miles 
from the sea, a similar relic was found, eighteen inches below the 
surface. It measured a foot in length, by nine inches in diameter. 

In April 1840, the trunk of a tree in a petrified state was found 
in the centre of the railway tunnel at Falkirk, 129 feet from the 
surface. It is about five feet in circumference. Several other or- 
ganic remains have been found there. 

Mansion-Houses, — Among these, Callendar House, the seat of 
William Forbes, Esq. undoubtedly holds the first place. It is in 
the fashion of the olden time, being remarkable for length rather 
than width, — of great thickness in the walls, and adorned with tur- 
rets of an antique form. It must have been built several cen- 
turies ago, but was in part modernized by the late proprietor. 
Viewed from the highway, it has a magnificent appearance. The 
situation, however, is low, and hence the prospect is limited. It is 
well sheltered in a park containing 400 Scotch acres, of which 
250 are covered with coppice-wood, mostly oak, upon ground rising 
gently to the south. The lawn is ornamented with trees of great 
size, and supposed to be 200 years old, having been planted >by 
the Earl of Callendar on his return from the exile into which he 
had gone with Charles II. Within the wood there is a mausoleum 
erected by the late Mr Forbes, in which his remains are deposited. 
It is of a circular form, ornamented with Doric columns. Over the 
door there is a Greek inscription, which has been translated thus : 

*' All things we mortals call our own 
Are mortal too and quickly flown ; 
But could they all for ever stay, 
We soon from them must pass away !" 

Kerse House, the seat of the Earl of Zetland, is pleasantly si- 



FALKIRR. 13 

tuated in the middle of a finely wooded park, and is the chief or- 
nament of the eastern Carse. The original part of the building is 
▼ery ancient, but successive additions have been made to suit the 
confenience or taste of the possessor. Its present appearance is 
that of a mansion of the Elizabethan times. 

Bantaskine House, the residence of T. C. Hagart, Esq., is an 
elegant and substantial mansion of modem architecture. It stands 
oo an elevated spot, half a mile south-west of the town, and 
partakes of the fine prospect which has already been adverted to. 
The grounds are encircled by luxuriant plantations. 

Modem Buildings, — The office and dwelling-house for their 
agent, lately erected by the Commercial Banking Company, in 
the High Street, is a superb structure, and beautifies the part*of 
the town where it stands. The meeting-house of the Secession 
at the east, and the Relief Church at the west end of the town, 
are large plain buildings, and do not contribute advantageously to 
the appearance of the place. 

IIL — Population. 

The population of this parish in 1755, was 3932 

1792, 8020 
rlBOl, 8838 

1811, 10,395;..,. ,4; 

1821, 11,536 

1831. 12748 

1835, 13,037 

The gradual increase may be ascribed to improvements in agri- 
culture and the extension of trade and manufactures. 

Id 1881) the number of inhabitants residing in the towns and 

Tillages of the parish was 10,294 

in the country, ..... 2454 



12,748 



Average of births for the last three years, 252 
deaths, . . 255 

marriages, . . 110 



There is only one nobleman (Earl of Zetland) who has a dwel- 
ling-house in the parish, but who resides chiefly in England. The 
number of individuals or families of independent fortune, and not 
engaged in business, may be seven. The proprietors of land of 
the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, may be estimated at forty 
in number. The people are, in general, contented with their si- 
tuation and circumstances ; and the great proportion are moral and 
religious, in so far as can be judged from regular attendance at 
public worship and outward decency of conduct. 

Poaching in game is practised by some individuals. Smuggling 
may be said to have entirely ceased. Pawnbroking is carried on 
to a small extent, although there is none licensed Cor that trade. 



14 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

IV, — Industry. 
Agriculture. — 

The number of acres, standard imperial roeasurei cultivated or occasionally in tillage, 

may be computed at . . . .11 j(a)0 

Number of acres never cultivated, and constantly waste or in pasture, . 1900 

undivided common, . . . ' , none 

under plantations, . . . - . 1800 

The trees planted or indigenous are, oak, Scotch fir, ash, larch, 
beech, hazel, and birch. The wood of Callendar is believed to 
be the remaina of the Caledonian forest, with which a great part 
of the country was covered at the Roman invasion. 

Rate of Labour. — Farm labourers have, in summer and winter, 
86. and 9s. per week, with victuals. Masons and carpenters, 2s. 
and 2s. 6d. per day besides victuals. Ploughmen have L. 16 per 
annum, with bed and board. 

Breeds of Cattle. — Of these few are reared, supplies being ob- 
tained from the North and West Highlands. 

There is nothing peculiar to the husbandry of the upper parts 
of this parish. Of the method of labour practised in the Carse 
district, we here insert an account, which has been furnished by 
an intelligent and scientific farmer, Mr David Hardie, Westkerse, 
and which may be viewed as applicable to the parses of this 
county in general. 

^< Owing, probably, to the small size of the farms in the dis- 
trict, which, till within the last fifty years, were much smaller than 
they now are, improved modes of management were later in being 
introduced, than into many parts of the country. Since then, how- 
ever, great changes have been efi'ected ; improved breeds of cattle 
have been introduced ; agricultural implements have been perfect- 
ed ; farm-ofiices improved ; and the fields have been levelled and 
laid off in straight ridges. 

" Greater facilities have also been afforded by the harbour of 
Grangemouth for procuring sea-borne manures, which have been 
largely used. 

'' The greatest alteration, however, has undoubtedly been effected 
by draining, — the first agricultural improvement of modern times, 
and one admirably adapted to the state of the soil. For the latter 
operation, drain^tiles, of which there is a manufactory in the dis- 
trict belonging to the Earl of Zetland, are universally used, and 
nearly all the farms have been either wholly or partially drained 
with them. The rotation of crops has also become better under- 
stood, and tbe particular shifts which are best suited to call forth' 
the energies of the soil, have been ascertained. Indeed, most of 



FALKIRK. 15 

tbe tenantry are bound, in their covenants of lease, to follow a par- 
ticular system of cropping ; but as it is^ one which experience has 
proved to be best adapted for the land, it is very rarely departed 
from, e?en in cases where the tenant is at liberty to do so. It is 
as follows : First year, fallow ; 2d, wheat ; dd, beans ; 4th, barley ; 
5tb, clover and ryegrass ; and 6th, and last of the rotation, oats. 
According to this system of alternate cropping, it will be seen, that, 
in order to secure a proportion of each kind of crop, as well as an 
equal distribution of labour throughout the season, it is necessary 
that each farm be divided into six equal parts, one of which is al- 
lotted to each of the above-mentioned crops. It has been objected 
to, on account of the frequent recurrence of fallowing ; but the ad- 
hesive nature of the soil, and the circumstance of its being much 
infested with root-grasses, seem to render this necessary. A crop 
of beans, indeed, is occasionally taken in place of fallow, in which 
case the land is manured and ploughed as soon as possible after 
the last crop of the previous rotation has been removed, and the 
beans are drilled in the month of February or March following, 
at the rate of six bushels per Scots acre. The land never admit- 
ting at that early season of being formed into drills, the drilUma- 
chine merely follows the plough, depositing the seed in every al- 
ternate furrow, at the distance of from eighteen to twenty^two 
inches betwixt the rows. They are usually twice hand-hoed in 
the early part of the summer, and if the land has been sufficiently 
manured, and the beans got off in time to allow it to be properly 
prepared for the wheat, the crop is not unfrequently equal to that 
which has been preceded by a bare fallow. In consequence, how- 
ever, of the late season at which beans ripen in this climate, they 
are seldom harvested in time to allow the land to be so prepared, 
and a bare fallow is therefore generally preferred. 

*< In this case, the land receives from four to six ploughings in the 
course of the summer, and is reduced to a fine tilth by a plentiful 
use of the harrows and roller. On account of the tendency of the 
wheat crop to lodge, manure is rarely employed in its culture. 
Ume is, however, occasionally applied, at the rate of ten to fifteen 
cart loads of shells per acre, although it is not so largely used, as, 
from its beneficial effects on the soil, might have been expected. 

" The seed is universally sown broadcast, and the season generally 
preferred is from the beginning to the middle of October. Tbe 
quantity of seed varies from two to three bushels per acre. The 
varieties in greatest esteem are Hunter's, and white and yellow 



16 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Essex, although numerous others are in use. As early as possible 
after the wheat crop has been harvested, the manure which ^ai 
been collected during summer is applied to the stubble land, foi 
the following crop of beans, and the process is continued during 
frosty weather until the whole has been gone over. The quantity 
laid on varies probably from twenty<^four to forty cart*loads pei 
acre, and the expanse, exclusive of the carriage, from L. 6 to 
L.10. If intended to be sown in drills, the same method u 
pursued which we described above in the case of their being sub* 
stituted for fallow as a preparation for wheat ; but by far the greatei 
breadth of them is sown broadcast In the latter case, the ground 
is not ploughed till the month of February, and the crop is sown 
if possible about the beginning of March, at the rate of six bushels 
of beans, with one to two pecks of fitches per acre. The seed is 
then harrowed in, and the land rolled down, to preserve the mois- 
ture, as soon as it is sufficiently dry to permit of it. The land ia 
again ploughed, shortly after the bean crop has beto got off, and 
allowed to lay in the winter furrow, till the month of March or 
April following, when it receives two more ploughings, with a 
vigorous application of harrows and roller, to prepare it for the re- 
ception of the barley and grasses which are sown at the same time 
for the succeeding year's crop of hay. From three to four bushels is 
the ordinary allowance of seed for the former, and from half to 9 
bushel of ryegrass seed, with about eight pounds of red clover per 
acre for the latter. The common two- rowed barley, or, as it is 
sometimes termed, English barley, from its having been first intro- 
duced from England, has long ago superseded Scotch bear or 
bigg, and is the only variety now in use. The land is again 
ploughed in the winter succeeding the removal of the hay crop, 
for the last crop of the rotation, viz., oats, which are sown at the 
rate of six bushels per acre about the end of March. The varie- 
ties sown are numerous, but that most in favour, and which, from 
the abundance of its produce, and early season at which it ripens, 
seems best deserving of it, is the Friesland oat, so called from 
having been originally introduced into this country from that pro- 
vince. The same course is again commenced by fallowing, the 
above being the only crops grown to any extent in the parish. 

'* It is difficult to ascertain with precision the average amount of 
produce throughout a district ; but it may be stated generally that 
forty bushels of wheat ; forty-eight of barley ; thirty "six of beans ; 
sixty of oats ; and two tons of first crop, with one ton of second 



FALKIRK. 17 

crop hay per Scots acre, are considered as a fair return. Much 
more is occasionally reaped, but the above quantities will certainly 
exceed rather than fall below the average. 

** Grain rents, now so generally in use, are universal through- 
out the district. The principle, however, is not carried out 
to its full extent, wheat being the only article of produce by 
which the value of the rents is estimated ; in other words, the 
farms are univers^illy let for a certain number of bushels of wheat 
per acre. Ten is by much the most usual number, although a 
few of the farms are held at nine bushels per aci'e. The value of 
the wheat is, of course, determined by the fiars' prices of the 
county, and varies, frequently to a very considerable extent, yearly. 
In order, in some measure, to regulate this — to prevent the rents 
from rising too high in scarce years, and falling too low after 
plentiful harvests, it is becoming usual to fix a maximum and mi- 
nimum price at which the wheat shall be convertible into money, 
when the fiars' prices exceed or fall below them. Of late L.d, 16s. 
has in several instances been agreed on as the maximum, and 
L.2, 10s. per quarter as the minimum price, preventing a ten 
bushel rent from falling below L.«3, 2s. 6d., or rising above L.4, 
7s. 6d. per acre. But as the average of the county fiars for the 
last seven years, does not quite reach L.2, 10s. per quarter, the 
former of these sums may be taken as the average rent of the 
parish." 

Agricultural Society. — The Agricultural Association of the 
Eastern District of Stirlingshire was formed here two years ago. 
The Earl of Dunmore is patron, and Mr Forbes, president Its 
object is to promote scientific and practical improvements in agri- 
culture. Two cattle shows are held annually in the immediate 
neighbourhood of the town, at which premiums are awarded. 

Horticuliural Society. — There is also a Horticultural Society in 
Falkirk, under respectable patronage. The members have four 
exhibitions of fruits and flowers in the course of the summer season. 

Manufactures. — The Falkirk Iron Works are situated half a 
mile from the town, on the south of the Forth and Clyde Canal, 
and connected therewith by a basin. They employ about 500 
men and boys in ihe manufacture of every description of small 
castings and cast-iron articles ; such as pans, pots, kettles, stoves, 
grates, &c. for home and export sale. Most of the workmen arc 
employed in moulding these articles, and are paid according to 
the quantity of work they perform. The industrious and sober 

STIRLING. . B 



18 STIRLINGSHIRE^ . 

can earn wages sufficient to enable them to live comfortably with- 
out overworking themselves. Others are employed in making 
patterns for the moulders, in dressing the articles when moulded, 
in fitting their various parts together, and finishing them for sale. 
They are not generally so well paid as the moulders. No branch 
of these employments is considered more detrimental to health 
than other trades, and no disease is peculiar to them. The most 
common complaints are, fever, a disease called blackspit, and 
other epidemical disorders ; but to these they are subject only in 
rommon with other workmen in the neighbourhood. Many of 
them attain an advanced period of life. * 

Nail Manufactories. — Of these there are two in the village of 
Camelon, being the chief branch of trade carried on there. It 
was introduced about fifty years ago by Mr Cadell of Carronpark, 
who brought persons from England versant in the business, and 
who, by teaching others, have handed it down until the present 
time. About 250 men and boys are employed. The men get 
out nail-rods from the master, and return the produce in nails. 
The shops and all working tools and utensils are furnished by the 
employers, who also provide dwelling-houses for the married men 
and their families. The men work from five to five and a-half 
days in the week, each day consisting of ten hours. The remu- 
neration to nailers is as follows : — A man by himself gains from 
9s. to 14s. per week; a man and boy under him, 14s. to 16s.; 
a man with two boys, L.l to L.I, 2s. ; a man with three boys, 
L. 1, 8s. to L.1, lOs. They, however, find themselves in coals, 
which may cost each man 6d. per week or thereby. The em- 
ployment is by no means unhealthy, and the workmen are less 
subject to disease than those employed in cotton or similar facto- 
ries. The morals of the nailers have been improved within the 
last few years. In particular, drunkenness and habits of impro- 
vidence are greatly on the decrease. In 1 833, the cholera cut 
off so many of this class of people, that Mr Fairbairn found it 
necessary to advance L.40 for the purpose of interments, which 
has been repaid from the earnings of survivors, and a fund to the 
same amount accumulated to answer future emergencies, -f 

Collieries. — In the parish, there are three of these in operation, 
all to the south of the town of Falkirk. At one of them, the min- 
ing operations and the making of charcoal are carried on to such an 

* Conimuiiicatioii from G. Hardic, Esq. 
t CoiiiiDunicaUon from G. Fairbairn, Esq, 



FALKIRK. 19 

extent, a^ to employ 170 persons, who are paid according to the 
quantity of work they perform. They earn on an average L.1, 5s. 
per week each. 

Quarries. — There are seven freestone quarries working at pre- 
sent on a line near the middle of the parish, as far as Castlecary, 
fi>r furnishing stones for the railroad and viaducts connected there- 
with. In these quarries about 160 men are employed. There is 
also a whinstone quarry opened, for furnishing blocks for the rail- 
way, in which thirty men are employed. The weekly wages are 
from 15?. to L.1, Is. 

Brick and Tile- Works, — There are three of these in the parish. 

The largest is at liOck No. d» on the south bank of the Forth 

mnd Clyde Canal. It belongs to the Earl of Zetland, who carries 

^n the work under the direction of a manager, and employs about 

9 dozen of men. The average weekly wages are 16s. Asteam-^ 

<€Ogine of six horse power, for grinding clay, was lately erected 

here, being an improvement in the process of brick-making. The 

other two brick and tile works are about a mile west from the 

above, and also adjoin the canal. The one employs fourteen men, 

and the other ten. Average wages, 14s. per week. 

Saw-MiUs.—Oi these there are three. One at Castlecary 
employs sixteen men, another at Bonnyside, fourteen. The weekly 
wages are from 14s. to 18s. The saws used in both are circular, 
driven by water, and cut up wood for staves, packing-boxes, lath, 
roofing, and joisting. Formerly they were corn-mills. The other 
is upon a large scale, and is situated on the north bank of the 
canal, betwixt Bainsford and Grangemouth. It is constructed on 
the principle of Macdowall's patent, and is wrought by three steam- 
engines of eighteen, twenty, and forty horses' power. The saws used 
are both upright and circular, and cut for general purposes wood 
of anv lenorth or diameter. About fifteen men and boys are ge- 
oerally employed at from 6s. to L.1, 5s. of weekly wages. 

Wood' Yards. — There are four wood-yards in the parish. Taken 
together, ten pairs of sawyers are employed, who use the frame-saw 
for cutting up the wood. They are paid by the foot 

Pyroligneous Acid Works. — In Grahamston, there are two esta- 
blishments for distilling wood. In one of them, the distillation is 
used in making iron-liquor for printfields, and in the other for 

making vinegar. 

Coru-Mills.—Oi i\\Qse there are six, four of which are driven 



20 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

by water. The other two go by steam-engines of twenty and tbirty- 
six horse power. 

Distilleries. — Of these there are two. One of them at Bonny- 
muir paysL.150 per week to Government, and employs twelve men. 
The other at Camelon employs five men. 

Breweries. — There are four in the parish. Three of them are 
comparatively upon a small scale. The other makes ales and 
porter of various degrees of strength. It has a groat home con- 
sumpt, besides sending large quantities to London and elsewhere. 
It is situated in the town of Falkirk, and employs twenty men. 

Tan-warks. — There are four tan-wdrks, which are all situated 
in the vicinity of the town. Currying, as well as tanning, is per- 
formed in three of them ; and in one of these the process of taw- 
ing sheep and lamb skins is carried on. They employ, in whole, 
forty-two men. 

Weaving. — Muslin and coarse linen weaving are carried on here 
to a very small extent. In the town there are only forty persons 
employed in this trade. The muslin-weavers get all their work 
from Glasgow. The coarse linen-weavers work only at home- 
made cloth, that is, cloth made by families in the neighbourhood. 
Ten years ago, five times the present number were employed. 
They are decreasing every year, from the miserable wages made 
at the trade. 

Nurseries. — There are four in the neighbourhood of the town, 
which occupy a considerable extent of ground, and supply a large 
district with forest-trees of all kinds, as also fruit-trees, ornamental 
shrubs, bushes, &c. They are all kept in excellent order. 

Ship^Building. — This is carried on to a small extent, near to 
Lock No. 16. The vessels built are for the canal trade. Twelve 
men are employed. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Markei'Town. — Falkirk is the only market-town in the parish^ 
and is estimated as containing nearly 5000 inhabitants ; but within 
the bounds of the Parliamentary burgh, the population was ascer- 
tained in 1836 to be 7445, The town consists of a principal 
street, extending to three-quarters of a mile, from east to west, 
forming part of the turnpike road betwixt Edinburgh, Glasgow, 
and Stirling. The street is rather narrow at the extremities, but 
it gradually widens in approaching the centre, where it attains a 
respectable breadth. There are besides, other streets and lanes, 
some of which branch from, and others run parallel with, the prin- 

3 



FALKIRK. 21 

cipal one. Among these, the Kirk-Wynd strikes off from the 
main or High Street, and connecting with a range of elegant new 
houses in the same line, unites the town to the villages of Graham- 
ston and Bainsford, forming a continuous double line of houses of 
upwards of a mile in length. Situated on an elevation, with a 
gentle declivity on each side, and having a small stream or bum 
at each end, the town is easily kept dry, and has a free circulation 
of air. Within the last half century^ many of the houses have been 
Tebuilt, generally in a handsome style. An elegant spire, 140 
feet in height, containing a clock and a couple of bells, one of 
them large and full-toned, is both ornamental and useful. It was 
built in 1813 on the foundation of an old steople, which had been 
taken down in 1803, and originally erected in 1697. The shops 
and the town are lighted with gas, and a good supply of water, is 
obtained from the high grounds to the south. The bustle of bu- 
smess is observable to a degree rather beyond that of ordinary 
country towns. This is the case particularly on market and fair- 
days, and on occasion of the great cattle trysts which are held 
on Stenhouse-muir, in the parish of Larbert, three miles to the 
northward. From its vicinity to these markets, a large proportion 
of the dealers make Falkirk their head-quarters, and they thus 
draw to if, periodically, a considerable influx of strangers. With 
the exception of leather, no goods are to any great extent manufac- 
tured in the town, it being chiefly supported by an extensive inland 
trade, and by the iron-works, canals, and collieries in the vicinity. 
There is a market for butcher-meat to which, for its well known excel- 
lence, resort is had from all parts of the surrounding country. The 
grain market is also well attended, and it has now ample accom- 
modation. The trade of the place is assisted by a branch of the 
Bank of Scotland (which a few years ago came in place of the 
Falkirk Bank), also by branches of the Commercial Bank of Scot- 
land, the National Bank, and the Clydesdale Banking Company. 
Police^ Sfc. — Falkirk was erected a burgh of barony by King 
James VI. in a. d. 1600, by a charter in favour of Alexander 
Lord Livingston. In 1646, it was erected into a burgh of Re- 
gality by Charles I., and the different trades acquired certain pri- 
vileges, which were united by commissions or seals of cause from 
the baron. The rights which these conveyed are now entirely 
obsolete^ The office of stent-master, still retained by delegates 
chosen annually by each of the trades, is supposed to have ori- 
ginated in the powers formerly enjoyed by the burgesses. When 



22 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

the feudal jurisdictions were taken away in 1745, Falkirk again 
became a burgh of harony, under the government of a bailie ap- 
pointed by the proprietor of Callendar; but for many years past 
no person has held that office. For a long period, the only dis- 
pensers of law in the town, were the Justices of the Peace, who 
held monthly courts for the recovery of small debts, &c. and the 
suppression of riots. There was no jail or place of confinement 
for criminals, and the inconvenience and expense of sending these 
to Stirling, the county town, was severely felt At length mea- 
sures were taken for relieving this populous district from the hard- 
ships under which it had been labouring, and the matter having 
been represented to Government, a resident sheriff-substitute was 
appointed, who opened his court in Falkirk in July 1834. This 
arrangement has been of great advantage to the place, the more 
especially as, since then, apartments in the town steeple have been 
fitted up and legalised as a prison ; and it is now only necessary 
to convey to the county jail, such criminals as may be committed 
for trial before the Court of Justiciary. 

By the Reform Act, Falkirk is constituted a Parliamentary 
burgh. Its boundaries are defined; and, along with Airdrie, Hamil- 
ton, Lanark, and Linlithgow, returns a representative to Parliament 
By a subsequent act, the municipal government of the burgh is 
vested in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and seven council- 
lors ; but, having been called into existence without being provided 
with the means of defraying*the necessary expenditure, the magis- 
trates exercise no jurisdiction, nor have they as yet interfered with 
the town's revenue. This is managed by the stent-masters, who, 
from use and wont, have exercised the power of levying an annual 
assessment from the inhabitants, for supplying the town with water, 
and other public purposes. The feuars are a separate body, who 
annually choose office-bearers, and who, in consideration of their 
surrendering about forty years ago certain privileges which they 
held over the extensive moor or commonty on the south of Falkirk, 
in order that it might be cultivated, acquired right to some heri- 
table property, besides the town's customs. Their funds are ap- 
plied towards objects of local improvement Hitherto this system 
has been held sufficient for managing the affiiirs of the town. The 
police of the district is maintained by the county at large, by whom 
several criminal officers are stationed in the place. 

Villages. — Beginning at the west end of the parish, the first we 
notice is Bonnybridge. It is situated on the Glasgow turnpike 



FALKIRK. 23 

road, four miles from Falkirk, and contains about lOOinbabitants, 
who are employed as artisans and labourers. In the neighbour- 
hood, there is a small burying-yard. There is a school which has 
a small endowment, and the teacher is appointed by the kirk-ses« 
sion of the parish. 

Camelon is on the same turnpike road, and about a mile west 
from Falkirk. The population in 1831 was 809, and the inhabit- 
ants are chiefly engaged in nail-making. It has two schools, one 
of which was built by subscription, and a Sabbath school supported 
hj a society. A handsome church has been recently built at the 
west end of the village, seated for 660 persons.* .The ground for 
the site, and a liberal donation besides, were given by Mr Forbes of 
Callendar, and the remainder of the expense was made up by con- 
tributions under the Church Extension Scheme. 

Baiosford, a mile north of Falkirk, is now a suburb of that tows, 
and forms part of the Parliamentary burgh. In 1831, it contained 
791 inhabitants, a great proportion of whom are employed at the 
well-known Carron Iron Works, which are in the neighbourhood, 
but in the parish of Larbert. A|basin communicating with the Forth 
and Clyde Canal, accommodates the Carron Company's vessels 
10 the Liverpool trade, and a railway connects it with the works. 
Some of the inhabitants are also engaged at a rope-walk at this 
place. The village contains one school. By the canal, over which 
there is a drawbridge, it is disjoined on the south from Grahams- 
ton, which in 1831 contained 1288 inhabitants. It is also a suburb, 
and j>art of the burgh of Falkirk. It consists of modern stone- 
buildings, occupied as dwelling-bouses and shops. The labouring 
part of the population are chiefly employed at the Carron Works, 
and at the Falkirk Iron Works in the neighbourhood. From its 
vicinity to the canal, there is a considerable traffic in timber and 
grain; and vessels with dried fish from the north resort thither, 
which command a ready sale. There are four schools ; some of 
them under female teachers. 

Laurieston is about a mile and a-half east from Falkirk, on the 
Edinburgh road. In 1831, it contained 1306 inhabitants, who are 
employed chiefly in weaving, nail-making, and in agriculture. 
There are also various artisans, such as stone masons and shoe- 
makers. This place has been laid out on a regular plan on the 
sides of the highway, having a square in the centre, with lanes in 
the same direction on the south and north, and intersected by cross 

• This church was opened for worship on Sabbath, 28d August 1840. 



24 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Streets. It was originally called New Mercbiston, having been 
feued out in 1766, by Francis Lord Napier. It received its pre- 
sent name in honour of the late Sir Lawrence Dundas, who be- 
came its feudal superior, and it still holds under his descendant, 
now Earl of Zetland. There are three schools ; also a church in 
connection with the Reformed Presbytery, built in 178a The 
place is elevated, and commands an uncommonly beautiful view of 
the Carse of Falkirk, and more distant mountain scenery. 

For the sake of arrangement we classify Grangemojuth among 
the villages ; but in reality, it merits the denomination of a town, 
being a sea-port, and the centre of a district lately erected into a 
quoad sacra parish. 

Grangemouth * is situated at the junction of the Forth and 
Clyde Canal with the Carron, a little above the union of that river 
with the Forth. The town derives its name from the Grange bum, 
which, winding past the Grange, or home farm of the ancient and 
now demolished Abbey of Abbotshaugh, formerly emptied itself 
into the Carron, close by the site of the town. Recent improve- 
ments, by giving a new direction to the course of the rivulet, have 
deprived the name of its original significance. A new cut of nearly 
a mile in extent was opened in 1838, to connect this stream with 
the Forth in a more easterly direction, and thus to secure its for- 
mer outlet for the formation of the extensive wet-docks which are 
now in progress. The town was commenced in 1777 by Sir 
Lawrence Dundas, in the prospect that its connection with the 
canal would raise it into consequence as a sea-port. The streets 
are regular, having been built upon a plan, and the appearance of 
the place, from the flatness of the surrounding country, the canal, 
and the frequent sea-dikes, suggests the idea of a Dutch village. 
The canal is the object of principal importance. When it 
reaches Grangemouth, it has traversed a distance of twenty-nine 
miles from Port Dundas. The rise from Grangemouth to Lock 
20, which is the summit of the navigation, is 156 feet. The rise 
is effected by means of locks of 20 feet in width and 74 in length, 
every one of which has 8 feet of fall. Its width upon the sur- 
face is about 60 feet, and at the bottom 27. Its depth is 9 feet. 
The canal terminates at Grangemouth in extensive wood-ponds, 
in a basin and harbour. It admits vessels of ninety tons burden. 
The wood-ponds are receptacles for the timber which is im- 

• The account of Grangemouth has been furnished by the Rev. Mr Taylor. 



FALKIRK. 25 

ported. They are two in number. The largest is bonded^ and 
forms a square of about three acres. Norway, Prussia, and Ame- 
rica are the countries with which this branch of trade is maintained. 
It forms a principal part of the traffic of the place. 

The basin and harbour afford accommodation to the vessels 

until they pass through the canal, or discharge their cargoes. 

The larger class unload here, and the proportion of their goods 

destined for Glasgow are carried through by means of lighters,—- 

boats built expressly for canal navigation. There are, besides 

these, three private wharfs on the banks of the Carron. 

The want of accommodation at the port has been long com- 
I>lained of. Proposals and plans of enlargement were made many 
'drears ago, when the canal did not yield a fifth of its present re- 
'^^enue. In 1838, effective measures were adopted. The late 
^Barl of Zetland and the Forth and Clyde Canal Committee em- 
"^loyed Mr Macneill, civil-engineer in London, to take surveys, 
^uid to submit a report of improvements. His report has been 
dopted, and, since April 1838, 200 artificers and labourers have 
n employed in working it out.^ The report embraces the fol- 
lowing particulars, 1. the changing of the direction of the Grange 
lum. 2. The formation of a wet dock on the south-east of the 
present harbour, 27 feet in depth, and of such dimensions as to 
contain forty sail of the largest class of steam and merchant ves- 
sels. The sea lock, to shut the dock, is proposed to be 300 feet 
long and 70 broad. The formation at Bristol of a lock a few feet 
larger, deprives this one of the boast of being the largest in the 
world, and leaves it only the second place. 3. The deepening of 
the River Carron, so as to allow canal traders drawing nine feet 
of water to arrive and depart at low tide. 4. An enlargement of 
the easter timber basin, and a junction betwixt it and the wet 
dock by means of a canal ten feet deep. Above twenty acres of 
land have been allotted for these improvements; and, by 1843, 
they are expected to be in such a state of forwardness as to admit 
vessels into the wet dock. The facilities afforded to shipping 
will thus be greatly increased ; and as Grangemouth has every 
local advantage from its being the east port of Glasgow, and its 
close communication with the German Ocean, it will possess every 
accommodation to invite the resort of commerce. 

The canal does not communicate immediatelv with the Forth, 
but is connected with it by the river Carron. The course of 
this river has undergone many changes. At one period it flowed 



2C STIRLINGSHIRE. 

about half a mile east of its present course, giving name to the 
farm of Carron Flats, and encircling in its windings the Inches, 
Easter and Wester, More recently, its course was north and west 
of the town. Its bed in that direction may be distinctly traced. 
To secure a ready approach to the canal, the river was straightened 
by means of a cut The alluvial matter, through which the Car- 
ron flows, has been accumulated in a long progress of years, and 
invites the labours of enterprise to convert it into fertile fields. It 
was lately contemplated to reclaim the ground on both sides of 
the river, and surveys have been taken, extending frum Bo'ness 
to Higgins Neuck, which hold out the stimulating prospect of 
2800 acres of the richest soil. 

The distance from the quay at Grangemouth to the outmost 
beacon at the mouth of Carron, is reckoned about a mile and a- 
half. Vessels entering the canal were formerly conducted up the 
Carron by pilots. About fifteen persons generally held' license of 
pilotage from the Trinity House of Leith. The occupation of 
this class is now, however, superseded by the employment of small 
steam-boats, which tow the vessels from the water mouthy thus 
rendering them less dependent upon tide and wind. Two steam- 
boats are used for this purpose. 

Grangemouth was made the seat of a custom-house in 1810. 
It extends over the out-stations of Alloa, Stirling, and Kincardine. 
Its officers consist of a collector, comptroller, clerk, two landing- 
waiters, locker, six tide-waiters. 

The following tabular views of the nature and extent of the 
trade, convey a more correct idea of it than any description which 
could be given, of the total number of ships, &c. &c 

Number of Vessels which passed through the Canal during the 
year laSO to 1839, inclusive: 

1830. 1831. 1832. 1833. 1834. 



To Port Dundas, 
From sea to sea. 
Inter mediate. 


1421 
184 
221 


1402 
165 
222 


1210 
151 
211 


1314 

182 
214 


1402 
226 
239 




1826 


1789 


1472* 


1710 


1867 




1835. 


1836. 

1810 
267 
328 


1837. 


183a 


1839. 


To Port Dundas, 
From sea to sea, 
Intermediate. • 


1478 
239 

285 


1710 
224 
348 


1705 
244 
423 


2204 
276 
479 



2002 2405 2282 2372 2959 

* 1831 being a year of great commercial distress in Glasgow, may account for tlie 
great decrease in 1832. 



FALKIRK. 



27 



Average of first five years, 
Average of second five years, 
Average of the ten years. 



1732A 
2404 

2068i^ 



Number of Vessels and Tons of Grain which entered the Port 
of Grangemouth during the following years : — 

Vessels. 1830. 1831. 1832. 1833. 1834. 



British, 
Foreign, 


Vea, Tons. 

594 28834 

43 8283 


V. T. 
389 19077 
49 10250 


V. T. 
408 12789 
4 617 


V. T. 
489 162i3 
5 761 


V. 

428 
8 

436 
18£ 


T. 
16756 
1187 




637 37117 
1835. 


438 29327 
1836. 


407 13406 
1837. 


494 16974 
1838. 


17943 
)9. 


Britiab, 
Foreign, 


V. T. 
525 25394 
4 457 


V. T. 
736 40^ 
5 713 


V. T. 
590 30256 
22 2762 


V. T. 

721 88728 
13 1012 


V. 

1021 
72 

1093 


T. 
54402 
7806 




529 25851 


741 41277 


612 33018 


734 39740 


62208 



Average of first five years, 
Average of second five years. 
Average of the ten years, 



481 1 vessels, 22953| tons. 
742| 404221 

612^1^ 31686^ 



Tons of Pig- Iron brought east by the Canal from Kirkintilloch 
Bailway during the years 



1835. 

Tons. 
5379 



1836. 

Tons. 
4248 



1837. 

Tons. 
4834 



1838. 

Tons. 
9535 



1839. 

Tons. 
9295 



There are regular traders on the canal from Port Dundas to 
the principal ports on the east coast of England and Scotland, 
say to London, including the Carron Company's vessels, 12; 
Hull, 4 ; Newcastle, 6 ; Leith, 1 i ; Dundee, 8 ; Aberdeen, 5 ; 
Montrose, 2 ; Arbroath, 3 ; Alloa, 3 ; and to Rotterdam, 3. 

Their return cargoes consist principally of, porter, flour, yeast, 
seeds, &c. from London ; oil, iron, and paints, from Hull ; colours, 
lead, mill-stones, and glass, Newcastle ; grain, ale, &c. Leith ; bag- 
ging, osnaburgh, and yarn, Dundee; worsted, woollens, and granite, 
Aberdeen ; grain, Montrose ; pavement and grain, Arbroath ; 
ale, bottles, and aqua, Alloa ; Geneva, cheese, &c. Rotterdam. 

The officers of the Canal Company at Grangemouth are, a 
collector, overseer of works, and harbour-master. 

Number of Ships, with their Tonnage and Men, including 
their repeated voyages, that have arrived at the Port of Grange- 
mouth with Cargoes from Foreign Ports, in the year 1839, dis- 
tinguishing each kingdom and state, and the general description 
of goods imported therefrom : 



28 



STIRLINGSHIRE. 



Kingdom or 
State. 



Russia, 

Sweden, 

Norway, 

Denmark, 

Prussia, 

Germany, ' . 

Holland, • 

Belgium, 

Canada, 

New Brunswick, 



Ships. Tons. Men. 



General Description of Cargoes. 



12 

I 
25 
33 
30 
16 
12 
1 
7 
15 



2164 R9 Corn, tallow, flax, hemp, mats, tar, bristles,, 
and wood goods. 
75 5 Manganese ore, pitch, and linseed cake. 

2873 165 Wood goods. 

2416 160 Com. . 

5418 237 Com, flax, timber, and other wood goods. 
980 63 Corn. 

945 56 Bark, cheese, madder, and Genera. 
82 4 Bark. 

2859 116 / 

4915 191 I '^™^'' ^^^ other wood goods. 



Total, 152 

An Account, as 
Grangemouth, with 

Ships. 



Kingdom or 
Sute. 



22727 108^ 

above, for Vessels that have sailed from 
their Cargoes, for the year 1839. 

Tons. Men« General Description of Cargoes. 



Russia, 5 

Sweden, 1 

Norway, . 2 

Denmark, . 37 

Prussia, . 9 

Germany, 19 

Holland, . 4 

Belgium, • 4 

France, . 15 

Portugal, 1 

luly, . 1 

Turkey, I 
Van Dieman's Land, 1 

Canada, 8 

New Brunswick, 5 

Brazil, ^ 1 



749 
75 

166 
2660 
1576 
1349 



38 
5 
11 
180 
72 
89 



388 19 



271 

1293 

162 

191 

242 

433 

3088 

1886 

184 



16 

78 

8 

9 

12 

18 

140 

80 

9 



> Coals, glass, and bricks. 

Pig and wrought iron. 

Coals, pig-iron, soap, and woollens. 

Pig and cast iron. 

Coals, beer, pig and cast iron, and cotton 

manu&ctures. 
Pig-iron, linen-yarn, and alum. 

Coals, pig-iron, glass, and bricks. 



Glass, woollen and cotton manu&ctures. 
Coals, bricks, cordage, woollens and, cot- 
tons. 
Coals, beer, glass. 



! 



Total, 114 14713 784 

An Account of Duties received at the Port of Grangemouth 
(including the Sub-Port of Alloa) for the years 1837, 1838, and 
1839:— 1837, L. 30,267; 1838, L. 25,054; 1839, L. 38,238; 
average, L.3 1,186. 

An Account of Registered Vessels belonging to the Port of 
GrangemoOth (including the out-stations of Alloa, Kincardine, 
and Stirling) at 31st December 1839: — Number of vessels, 
179; tonnage, 25,561. 

Grangemouth has been, for many years, favourably known for its 
shipbuilding. The general size of the vessels which are built 
varies from 90 to 250 tons. In 1839 the first steam-boat built in 
the port was launched, being a towing vessel for the port of Me- 
mel. To favour this branch of employment, an excellent graving 
dock was built by Lord Dundas in 1811. It is capable of taking in 



FALKIRK. 29 

two vessels of 300 tons each, and has a depth of water at spring- 
tides of fourteen feet. The manufactory of sail and rope is also 
carried on here, and considerable exports of these commodities 
made to the colonies. 

The parish recently attached quoad sacra to the church of 
Grangemouth contains, exclusive of the ground occupied by the 
town and harbours, about 1035 acres Scots measure. The 
policy around Kerse- House comprises about 100 of these, and 
the remainder is divided into sixteen farms, giving an average 
of 58 acres to each. The aspect of the parish is that of a per- 
fect plain, and no part of it exceeds eight feet above the level 
of the highest tides. With the exception of some plantations 
around Kerse-House, and a few trees at the farm-steadings, the 
district is totally destitute of wood, for the growth of which,. from 
the unkindly nature of the subsoil, it is but indifferently adapted. 
The soil, to the depth of from 6 to 12 inches, is exceedingly 
uniform in its character, consisting of a rich and stiff alluvial clay 
intermixed with a very small proportion of fine white sand. Its 
quality, however, is considerably affected by the nature of the sub- 
soil, which consists, to the depth of from l^ to 3 feet, of very 
hard and retentive ferruginous clay or till, which, when not broken 
up by the spade, is very slowly pervious to water. This is suc- 
ceeded at a depth, varying from 1^ to 4 feet, by a layer of a few 
inches of shells interspersed with sand', underneath which is a bed 
of blue clay or till, in which the remains of larger marine animals 
have occasionally been found. 

The town of Grangemouth is three miles from Falkirk, of 
which parish it forms a part. The distance made the want of a 
church and burial-ground to be much felt So far back as 1814, 
L.750 were subscribed for the purpose of erecting a place of wor- 
ship. The proposal was ultimately dropped, from a want of sup- 
port on the part of the parish incumbent, whose church politics 
were opposed to the erection of chapels of ease. In 1 827 the at- 
tempt was renewed, but also proved unsuccessful. No stated pro- 
vision was made for the spiritual instruction of the town, until 1837» 
In that year, the late Earl of Zetland, from a due regard for the 
spiritual interest of the district, erected a substantial and commo- 
dious church. The edifice is of the Norman style of architecture, 
similar to that of Kerse House, from which it is not far situated. 
Accommodation is afforded for 700 sitters, the front gallery being 
reserved by the Noble founder for his family and dependents. No 



30 STIRLINGSHinF, 

free sittings are formally set aside for the poor ; but an application 
to the kirk-session or local factor is all that is needed to secure 
scatsior any who are not able otherwise to procure them. Ground 
to the extent of a Scots acre has been allotted for burial. As no 
vessel is permitted to pass through the canal on Sabbath, the 
town generally contains a greater proportion of unemployed sailors 
on that day than on week days; and, if a portion of the church, as 
in some other sea-ports, was appropriated for them, it might be 
the means of preserving them from spending the day in idleness 
and dissipation, and of inducing them to attend upon religious or- 
dinances, as they could thus occupy these seats with the confi- 
dence of right, and might feel an interest in seeing them filled. 
The average attendance of hearers is betwixt 500 and 600, and 
the number who joined in communion in November 1839, when 
the sacrament was dispensed for the first time, was 200. There 
is a parochial district attached to the church, extending from one 
mile to one mile and a half, in each direction, and containing a 
population of about 1430. This district has been chiefly de-> 
tached from the parish of Falkirk ; a small portion having been 
taken from the parish of Polmont, which forms the eastern boun« 
dary. The incumbent holds a bond from the Earl of Zetland, 
guaranteeing an annual stipend of L.80, to meet which the seat* 
rents and collections are applied. L.20 of the collections are, by 
the voluntary arrangement *6f the session and managers, annually 
distributed for the relief of the poor of the district Here dis- 
sent has obtained a long and a firm footing. The number of 
Dissenters fully exceeds that of Churchmen. There are a few 
adherents to the Episcopalian, Reformed Presbyterian, Scotch 
Independents, and Baptist persuasions, but the great body of Dis- 
senters is divided betwixt the Relief and the United Secession. 
Some of the present householders, who are engaged in the public 
works, are Roman Catholics. 

The parish is amply provided with the means of education. In 
1827, there was erected by the late Lady Dundas, an elegant 
building containing a school-room for boys, and another for girls ; 
an ante-room, which is used as a library, and dwelling-houses to 
the teachers. It is of the English cottage order, and is surround- 
ed with extensive play-ground. There are few parish schools su- 
perior to this, in point of comfort and neatness of appearance. Sa- 
laries of L. 10 and L. 5 have been secured by the Noble founder 
to the teachers, and an yearly allowance is made for the education 



FALKIUK. 31 

of poor children. The munificence of the family also enables 
the teachers to distribute prizes for the encouragement of me- 
rit. English reading, grammar, Latin, French, writing, arithme- 
tic, book-keeping, geography, and practical mathematics, are the 
branches taught in the boy's school. The average number of pu- 
pils is seventy. The fees vary from 4s. to 6s. per quarter. Eng- 
lish, reading, knitting and sewing are taught in the female school ; 
the average attendance at which is 36. Fees from ds. to 5s. 
Both of these schools undergo examination by the presbytery of 
the bounds. 

Besides those two, which are endowed, there are other three at 
present in the town, at which the ordinary branches of (education 
are taught One of these is intended chiefly for females. The 
charges in each are from ds. to 4s. per quarter. The average 
number of children who enjoy the benefit of education is 206. 
The general evil of early attendance and early withdrawal from 
ichool is much felt here. They enter at four and a-half years, and 
withdraw at ten ; thus entering before they are capable of profit- 
ing, and leaving when they begin to enjoy the benefit of instruc- 
tioD. 

There is a library in the town supported by subscription. A 
public reading-room has also been in existence for many years. 
The town is lighted with gas. There are an Auxiliary Bible So- 
ciety, a Temperance Society, and a Female Missionary Society, 
bU in active operation. 

Means of Communication. — There are several post-offices in the 
parish, a principal one being in Falkirk, and another in Grange- 
mouth. Camelon, Grahamston, and Laurieston, have each its sub- 
ofiice. There are two daily posts to and from Edinburgh, Glas- 
gow, &c. and also daily posts to Stirling, Alloa, and other neigh- 
bouring towns. Letters are delivered in Falkirk twice a day, and 
runners are dispatched to the country parts of the parish every 
morning. The inhabitants enjoy great facilities for travelling. 
During the summer, passage boats ply on the Union Canal to 
Edinburgh, to which there are three different opportunities every 
lawful day, and an equal number of night boats on their way be- 
twixt Edinburgh and Glasgow. In winter, however, there are 
only two day boats besides the night ones. To Glasgow by the 
Forth and Clyde Canal, boate leave Lock Ho. 16, a mile from 
Falkirk, four times a day. Two coaches pass through the town 



32 STIRLINQSHIRE. 

every day for Edinburgh, two for Glasgow, two for Stirling, one 
for Alloa, and one for Dunfermline and Kirkaldy. 

Roads, — There may be about teu miles of turnpike roads in the 
parish ; besides which, it is intersected in all directions by other 
public roads maintained from the Statute Labour funds. 

Bridges. — The parish is connected with Larbert by two bridges 
over the Carron ; with Denny by one over the water of Bonny ; 
with Polmont by several bridges, and with Bothkennar by a draw- 
bridge over the Carron, of thirty feet wide, to allow vessels to pass 
on the river. There are also bridges over different streamlets, and 
all are generally in good condition. The line of the Forth and 
Clyde Canal, in passing through the parish, is crossed by five 
drawbridges. Several highways are carried over the Union Canal 
by arches of stone. 

Fences. — These in the upland parts consist chiefly of thorn hed- 
ges and stone dikes. In some of the subdivision hedges, oak, elm, 
and beech trees have been planted. This occurs particularly on 
the grounds of Mr Forbes of Callendar. In the Carse, ditches 
prevail in a great degree, which serve not only for the division 
of fields, but also for the draining off the superabundant moisture. 
Here also, there are hedgerows of thorn; and the willow tree 
abounds, attaining a considerable size. 

Canab. — The Forth and Clyde Canal was begun in 1768, — 
opened to a certain extent in 1775, and completed in 1790. It 
commences at Grangemouth, and, passing westward through the 
whole length of the parish, leaves it half a mile to the west of Cas- 
tlecary drawbridge, where it enters the parish of Cumbernauld. 
For the first three miles, it runs through a dead level of carse 
ground, but the rise then becomes so rapid as to require an ele- 
vation of twelve locks within the space of little more than a mile. 
The turnpike road formerly passed under the Canal, about a mile 
west from Falkirk, but, by a recent alteration of that road, the 
Canal is now crossed by a drawbridge. 

The Union Canal, begun in 1818, and finished in 1822, runs 
through this parish to its termination at Lock 16 of the Forth 
and Clyde Canal, a distance of three miles. Here it falls 110 
feet by means of eleven locks, within the compass of half-a-mile. 
At the same distance south from Falkirk, it passes through a tun- 
nel cut out of the solid rock, nearly 1000 yards in length. This 
canal is used for the conveyance of passengers and of goods, coal, 
manure, &c. 



FALKIRK. 33 

BaUway. — The line of the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway 
passes through this parish for about eight miles, entering from 
Polmont on the east It is to have a branch to the town of Fal* 
kirk, which is within half-a-nrile ot the main line. The ope- 
rations commenced in this neighbourhood early in 1839, and with- 
in the parish they consist of works of considerable magnitude. 
^moDg these, may be mentioned a bridge consisting of seven arches, 
of great height, going at once over the burn at Castlecary and 
over the turnpike road there, and a viaduct of three arches, one of 
^hich, being 130 feet span, crosses the Union Canal near to its 
western termination. A tunnel also is, at present, in the course of 
iformation, which, when finished, will extend to 845 yards under 
ground, will be 26 feet in width, 22 feet in height, and arched 
ivith brick. It is expected that this great undertaking, understood 
to cost a million of money, will be finished in 1842. 

EceUsiagdcal State. — The parish church is advantageously 
situated for the inhabitants of the town, and none of the villages, 
with the exception of Bonnybridge and Grangemouth, (which last, 
as already stated, has been erected into a parish quoad sacra) are . 
more than a mile and a-half distant. . In some of the country parts 
of the parish, the population may be still five miles from the church* 
But for upwards of a century past, considerable parts of it have 
been annexed quoad sacra to the neighbouring parishes of Slama- 
nan and Cumbernauld. 

Ancient documents show that, at one time, Denny, Slamanan, 
Muiravonside, and Polmont, formed parts of the then existing par- 
sonage of Falkirk. Of the period when the three first of these 
parishes were disjoined, no record has been found ; but Polmont 
was created a distinct parish in 1724. 

The church of Falkirk was founded by Malcolm Canmore in 
A. D. 1057. It was rebuilt in 1810. The ancient fabric consisted 
of four lofty arches, with extended aisles in the form of a cross, 
the centre forming the area or body of the church, and surmounted 
by a steeple. The present church contains sittings for 1500 
hearers. It is a square building, with windows of a Gothic form, 
and a circular gallery. The internal arrangements are convenient. 
The old arches and steeple were allowed to remain, and the former 
area now serves as a porch for the present church. The greater 
part of the pews were apportioned amongst the heritors ; and one 
of them was set apart as free sittings for twelve poor persons. 

Benefaction, — Some years ago, the sum of L.500 was bequeathed 

STIRLING. c 



34 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

to the kirk-session for behoof of the poor, by the late William 
Simpson, Esq. younger of Plean. The interest only of this sum 
is distributed, in terms of the will of the donor. 

The manse was rebuilt in 1746, and since then it has under* 
gone many alterations and repairs, particularly in 1 835, when it ' 
received a considerable addition. The house and offices are now 
in good order, and contain ample accommodation for a family. 
Adjoining is an excellent garden. Being in the town and near to 
the church, the manse is convenient for the incumbent and the 
parishioners. 

The glebe is somewhat less than the legal quantity of four acres, 
but the difference is made up by a portion of adjacent ground, 
which is rented by the heritors and possessed by the minister* 
The stipend being payable in grain, varies in its amount, and may 
be estimated on an average at L.400. 

There are no Chapels of Ease, but there are two additional 
churches, one at Grangemouth and another at Camelon, whereof 
notice has been already taken. There is also a church in the 
town, formerly of the Old Light Associate Synod, now connected 
with the Establishment, to which iio parochial district has been as- 
yet assigned. There is no Episcopal chapel. At present, while 
the railway is forming in the neighbourhood, a meeting of Papists 
is held monthly in the town, where Service is conducted by a priest 
from Stirling. The audience is chiefly composed of Irish labourers. 
There are several Dissenting chapels, one of which has already 
been noticed under the head of Laurieston. In the town, there 
are two of the United Secession Synod ; one of the Relief, and 
one of the Baptist persuasion. Of the three former, the ministers 
are paid from the seat-rents, and their stipends may be estimated 
at from L.100 to L.200, including the value of their manses. Of 
the latter, the services are conducted by laymen, and the sittings 
are free. The Congregational church, a few years ago, became 
extinct, and their place of meeting is now occupied by the Baptists. 
The average number of communicants at the Established 
Church, twice in the year, is from 600 to 700. 

Divine service there, and also at the Dissenting chapels, is, in 
general, well attended, which can scarcely fail to be the case in 
such a numerous population. It is to be lamented, that some in 
the more respectable walks of life give only a partial attendance, 
while multitudes in the lowest ranks of society are altogether care* 
less about the matter. 



FALKIRK. 



35 



There is at present no general Society for religious purposes. 
The Established and the Dissenting churches, however, contribute 
liberally for these objects, in connection with their own congre- 
gations, or with the ecclesiastical bodies to which they respectively 
belong. 

Education.— There are 25 schools in the parish, exclusive 
of Grangemouth. They are attended by about 1200 children. 
Two of these schools are parochial. In the one are taught 
Latin, Greek, and French. The salary is L.17, with a dwelling- 
house and garden ; the school fees 78. 6d. and lOs. 6d. per quar- 
ter. In the other, are taught English, at 3s. 6d. per quarter ; 
writing and arithmetic, at 4s.; botany, geography, and animal 
physiology, at 5s. 6d. Salary, L.34. In this department, there 
is great want of school accommodation; the room being only 
eighteen feet square for 110 scholars. Some of the other schools 
have small endowments. At Bonnybridge, the teacher has L.4 
per annum, arising from L.100 left by a Mr Scott for that pur- 
pose, about sixty years ago. He has also a school, dwelling-house, 
and garden, rent free. At Craigburn, the teacher has L.10 an- 
nually from Mr Forbes, besides a school and dwelling-house, rent 
free. At Laurieston, the teacher has a school and dwelling- 
house, besides L.5, 5s. of yearly salary from the Earl of Zetland. 
For the common branches of education, the fees are from 2s. 6d. 
to 4s. per quarter. Where the higher branches, such as geography, 
navigation, land-surveying, and mensuration are taught, the fees 
are 7s. 6d. and 10s. 6d. per quarter. One of the schools in Fal- 
kirk is for poor children exclusively, being usually attended by 
eighty, who are educated gratis. On Sabbath evenings, the chil- 
dren assemble for religious instruction. The teacher receives a 
salary of L.40 per annum, which is made up of an annual evening 
collection at the parish church ; on which occasion, service is con- 
ducted by a Churchman and a Dissenter alternately, and any de- 
6ciency is supplied by private donations. It has existed since the 
year 1812, and has been of great benefit to the place. The people, 
in general, appear to be alive to the advantages of education ; and 
there are no parts of the parish so distant as to prevent attendance 
at one or other of the schools. 

Literature. — There are in the town of Falkirk several public 
libraries. The principal one, instituted in 1792, contains about 
8000 volumes; a circulating library, 1200 volumes; andallelief 
church librar}', 1000 volumes. A School of Arts commenced in 
1827, in which there are weekly lectures during the winter seasov\« 



36 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

In 1839-40, lectures on Natural History were delivered. It has 
a library of about 600 volumes. There are two public reading- 
rooms for newspapers. There is at present no periodical work 
published here, although there are two printing establishments. 

Charitable Institution, — The only one is an hospital for the 
maintenance of four aged persons. . It was founded and endowed 
in 1640, by Lord Livingstone of Almond and Callendar. There 
belongs to it an acre of ground near the town, which is* let for 
gardens, &c. Each of the inmates receives from the proprietor 
of Callendar ten firlots of oatmeal annually, besides a small sum 
in money. He has the right of filling up vacancies as they occur. 

There are several private associations for the support of the 
sick, the infirm, and the aged. There was a savings' bank some 
years ago, but it does not now exist. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — In 1833, the poor's roll contained 
160 persons. At present (1840), they amount to 250. All 
these receive regular supply, according to their circumstances of 
destitution, from Is. 6d. to I6s. per month. Another class receive 
ds. and 4s. per week. Besides these, sums to a large annual 
amount are bestowed in occasional relief. In the winter season, 
shoes and clothing are given in addition to pecuniary donations. 
In the course of the year ending June 1839, L.693, 14s. 3d. were 
expended in these different ways. The fimds requisite for these 
<^upplies arise from the interest of L.600 lent out by the kirk-ses- 
sion about fifty years ago, dues of proclamations, mortcloth, col- 
lections at the door of the parish church, but chiefly from an as- 
sessment imposed annually by a meeting of the heritors and kirk- 
session in terms of law. This assessment for many years consisted 
of L.1 Sterling on every L. 100 Scots of valued rent in the parish, 
and, along with a voluntary contribution from the inhabitants of 
the town and villages, amounted to L.200. This, in addition to 
the other funds, formed an adequate source of supply for the poor 
and incidental expenses. Of late years, however, the assessment 
has been rapidly increasing. In 1834-35, it was L.400 ; 1835-36, 
L.650; 1836-37, L.550; and, in 1837-38, L.950. The average 
collection at the church door for five years preceding June 1839, 
is about L.65. These contributions are decreasing to a great 
extent, in consequence of the enlarged assessments. A committee 
of heritors meets with the kirk-session monthly, for receiving ap- 
plications for aid ; and from the numbers who then apply, the re- 
ception of parochial relief does not appear to them to be degrading. 
A great defect prevails as to the proper management of the poor. 



FALKIRK. 37 

There is no superintendence of them, nor due investigation made 
as to their circumstances; and, for a few years back, almost every 
person applying has received assistance. From this cause, and 
from the idle and improvident habits of many of the lower classes, 
pauperism is much on the increase. 

Prison. — To this we have already adverted. The number of 
prisoners during last year was about 80, who were in general 
immured for petty offences. The prison is strictly a place of con- 
6nement, having no airing-ground. Its government is vested in 
the Sheriff, and under him one of his officers acts as jailer, and 
supplies the prisoners with food, &c. 

JFatVf • — ^Exclusive of the Falkirk trysts, which, as already stated, 
are held in a neighbouring parish, there are nine annual fairs in 
the town of Falkirk. Of these, seven are for buying and selling 
horses and cattle, and two for hiring servants. The markets and 
fiurs are held uniformly on Thursdays. 

LmSf AlehouseSi S^c. — Within the parish, there are 6 inns and 
110 other houses of public entertainment. So many houses of 
this description can scarcely be considered as favourable to the 
morals of the people. 

FmeL — This consists of coal, which is procured within the pa- 
rish. An ordinary cart-load of 15 cwt, delivered in the town, 
costs, carriage included, 7s. Id. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Little remains to be added on this head. It will be seen from 

the foregoing statements, that much external improvement has ta- 
ken place since the former Statistical Account was written. Hus- 
bandry has beeti carried to a high pitch of melioration in its 
tarious departments, and the facilities of internal communication 
are abundant. When the railroad now in progress shall be 
finished, these will be greatly enhanced. In order that the moral 
improvement of the people may keep some equality with merely 
outward advantages, an additional supply of pastoral superinten- 
dence would, humanly speaking, be very serviceable. This can only 
be accomplished, by a subdivision of the town and country parts 
of the parish into separate districts, each with its church and school. 
In this way, would the progress of crime and of pauperism be most 
effectually checked, and the present and future happiness of all 
classes of the community promoted. 

Drawn up May 1840, revised March 1841. 



PARISH OF FINTRY. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. WILLIAM GRIERSON SMITH, MINISTER-* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Boundaries^ §*c. — The parish of Fintry is bounded on the north, 

by Balfron and Gargunnock; on the east, by St Niniansand Kil- 
syth ; on the south, by Campsie ; and on the west, by Killearn and 
Strathblane. It is 17 miles due north from Glasgow ; 16 miles west 
by south from Stirling ; and 22 miles east by north from Dumbar-p 
ton. In the county and other maps of this parish, it is made to touch 
the parish of Strathblane on the south*west, at the Earl's Seat, the 
highest point of the Killearn range of hills. These maps, how- 
ever, are in that respect incorrect. The lands of neither of the pro* 
prietors of the parish, (for there are only two in it,) extend to the 
top of the Earl's Seat. The lands of Fintry, in that direction, are 
bounded by asmall stream, the source of the Finglenburn, at the foot 
of that eminence, upwards of half a mile from the point in question. 
The name " Fintry," is said to be derived from Gaelic words, sig- 
nifying " Fair land." 

The parish extends from east to west about 6 miles, and its 
breadth from north to south is 5. It contains about 20 square 
miles. Its figure is irregular. The whole parish may be said 
to consist of three ranges of hills and two valleys. The 
southern range may be denominated the continuation of the Camp- 
sie hills, and the Meikle Binn. The middle range is the conti- 
nuationiof the Killearn hills, passing through Fintry and joining 
the Dundaff hills, in the parish of St Ninians. The northern 
range forms what is properly called the Fintry hills. These con- 
stitute part of a chain of mountains originating near Stirling, in 
the east, running in a direct line west by south, and gradually in- 
creasing in height and magnitude, till it abruptly terminates in 
a bluff shoulder in Fintry, behind the house of Culcreuch. 

* Drawn up by the late incumbent, the Rev, James Coltart. 



FINXnY. 39 

Hydrography. — Two rivers of considerable name and import- 
ance take their rise in this parish. One of them, the Carron, flows 
into the Frith of Forth at Grangemouth, on the east coast, and the 
other, the Endrick, after a course of upwards of twenty miles, falls 
into I^Mshlomond near Balmaha. From this, it will be understood, 
that Fintry lies on the highest ground in the district of country 
■ betwixt the friths of Clyde and Forth. The Carron, famous in Scot- 
tish history, rises on the hill in this parish due south from the church 
of Fintry, and washes the skirts of the Campsie hills, forming the 
boundary, for upwards of two miles, betwixt the parishes of Fintry 
and Campsie. It then divides the southern valley of Fintry, men- 
tioned above, on the north side of the Meikle Binn, and, after a 
qourte of between two and three miles, it leaves the parish of Fin- 
try, and forms the boundary between Kilsyth and St Ninians, pas- 
sing Denny, &c. towards the Forth. 

The Endrick takes its rise on the north range, or on what wo 
have termed the Fintry hills. It is a very small stream, running 
east, till it reaches the parish of Gargunnock. It then takes a 
southerly course, aud, gaining strength by the accession of tributary 
streams from that parish, it separates it and St Ninians from the 
parish of Fintry, till it reaches the high road from Fintry to Denny. 
It then flows due west, through the northern valley of Fintry, or 
through what may be called Fintry Proper, about four miles, till 
it becomes the boundary betwixt the parishes of Killearn and Bal- 
fron, fourteen miles from Lochlomond. 

The Endrick is a bold and rapid stream till it reaches the vale 
of Fintry, and wants only wood on its banks in the upper part of 
the parish, to vie with the most beautiful and sublime of our sc* 
condary Scottish rivers. It comes down with a deafening noise 
over its rocky channel ; and, about two miles and a half to the 
east of the church, it pours its waters over a precipitous rock, 
90 feet high, vulgarly denominated the *^ Loup of Fintry." The 
grand appearance of this waterfall in dry seasons has been much 
injured by one of those circumstances, which, if they have added 
to the wealth of the countrv, have not increased its beautv. 
More than a mile above this fall, a great proportion of the river 
is carried off to supply a largo reservoir, formed by the pro- 
prietors of two cotton-miils ereclod on the stream. When the 
river is much swollen, nothing can exceed the grandeur of the 
scene. In its usual state there are three breaks in this fall ; 
but in a flood, it d:ishcs over the rock upwards of thirty yards 



40 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

wide, in one unbroken cataract, and rages with unbridled fury 
against the immense masses of unattached rock at the bottom, from 
which it, ^^ rising wets with misty showers," the high banks on 
either side to a considerable distance. 

' About three-fourths of a mile east from the church, the En- 
drick receives a tributary stream, nearly half its size. This is 
called the Gonachan Burn. It originates on the north side of 
that hill -south from the church, which we have said gives rise to 
the Carron. It separates, nearly through the whole of its course, 
the lands of His Grace the Duke of Montrose, from those of Mr 
Speirs of Culcreuch. The river Endrick, originating in thi^ pa- 
rish, and its course through it being but short, cannot be suppos-» 
ed to contain a great quantity of water. Yet it is the sole moving 
power of a considerable weight of machinery in the parish. The 
Culcreuch cotton factory is driven solely by its waters ; at the same 
time, it would be by no means sufficient for this purpose, but that 
a reservoir of considerable depth, covering about thirty acres of 
land, has been constructed on the high ground, supplied wholly by 
the Endrick, and calculated to contain water sufficient for the 
purposes of the mill, for nearly six weeks. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The parish of Fintry affords a great 
variety of minerals, but never in great bodies. Coal in small seams 
is found in many places : granite occurs in detached fragments : 
there are also whinstone, freestone, andredstone, (locally called 6re- 
stone,) jasper, and fine specimens of zeolite. Rocks are numerous, 
and so disposed, as to contribute not a little to the grandeur of the 
scenery> These rocks belong to the trap formation, and lie in a po- 
sition very similar to those of Stirling Castle, Craigforth, and others 
in that neighbourhood. They exhibit the most sublime appear- 
ance on the northern or Fintry hills. They surround the western 
extremity of that range with much boldness, and on the south 
side, from some cause unknown, a great and rapid disintegration 
of the rock at its foundation seems to be going on. In the me- 
mory of persons still alive in the parish, a large portion of this rock 
began to subside. It is now separated from the hill by a chasm 
of more than a yard wide, and sunk below its original position up* 
wards of thirty feet. Masses of rock fall down every season.* At 

* The mass of sunk rock is, in extent, upwards of 60 yards in length, and from 10 
to 15 wide. The shattered and fallen masses are from its extremities. In the cen- 
trc, it remains solid and entire, as before it began to sink and separate from the hill. 
The writer of this article can imagine no more natural cause for this phenomenon 
than the action of water at the foundation of this rock, 'meeting with some soluble 



FINTRt. 41 

the foot of the rock which encircles the western brow of the hilly 
there is a considerable extent of table-land, affording excellent 
pasture for sheep and cattle, and on the descent below this, 
starts out a knoll, commonly known by the name of the Dun or 
DowHf of a singular appearance. Its front is a perpendicular 
rods, 50 feet high. The western extremity of this rock is one so- 
lid mass. Some fine specimens of zeolite have been found among 
tb^ rocks on the hill. Several attempts have been made to find 
eoal at its base, but hitherto, we regret to say, without success. 

Sodoffy^ ^— Game abounds in the parish. In the lower parts of 
iif in addition to the more common kinds, we have a plentiful 
supply of pheasants. The roe-deer is not unfirequently to be. 
se^ bounding through the woods, lind the moors are well stock- 
ed with grouse or heathfowl. The rocks give shelter to the moun- 
tain raven, hawks, and most of the smaller birds of prey. Among 
them also, the fox has long secured a very snug retreat. Polecats 
and other vermin of a like nature are not uncommon, and the harm- 
less and beautiful squirrel has long had a residence in our woods. 
Our streams supply us with no other kinds of fish than the common 
bum trout, which is much esteemed, and affords excellent sport 
to the angler. It has been asserted, that salmon have been taken 
as far up the Endrick as Fintry ; but this wants confirmation, and, 
indeed, a waterfall on the river seven miles below Fintry, upwards 
of twelve feet high, seems to falsify all such assertions. It has 
been lately proved in a court of law, that the Endrick above this 
fcll is not a salmon river. There is abundance of trout, known 
by the name of par, (a species only found in salmon rivers,) below 
this fall ; none above it.* Badgers, wild and martin cats are now 
extinct, though formerly abundant 

BUany. — This parish affords a very inviting field for the re- 

*UbsteDce« thereby undermining it, and occasioning the subsidence. In confirroa* 
tioo of this, weolMenre numerous copious springs of water issuing out, fitrther down 
^icbill. Yet it must be acknowledged, that, if this water was impregnated with 
foreign substances, it has lost them all by filtration before it reaches the surface, for 
^bere can be no springs of water more pure or agreeable. 

' The heritor, Mr Speirs, mentions, that, before he went abroad in 1810, the fish 
^«Iled •* par" was very numerous in Fintry waters, but that there were then no min- 
*Unrs : Id 1800 or 1810, a noted fisherman took minnows from below Gartness, and put 
Mi€in abore the faU : since that time pars have decreased, but there are now shoals of 
t^ionows. Mr Napier of Ballikinrain last year killed a sea. trout close to the borders 
^ th% pttrish ; which proves that the fall at Gartness can be surmounted. There are 
l^leaty of eek in the waters. Mr Speirs also mentions that, within his recollection, 
^reat additions have been made to the birds hereabouts. Kingfishers, redsUrts, cross- 
beaks, golden-wren, mistletoe- thrush, and starling, though even now not abundant, 
"Were formerly not at all known. 



42. STIRLINGSHIRE. 

searches of the botaDist. Its mountain ranges furnish almost the- 
whole family of the ferns, the mosses, the lichens, and the gnapfaa- 
liums. Most of those plants which court the moist shade flourish 
in rich luxuriance, in its rocky cliffs and deep ravines. On our moor 
pastures may be found the Gentiana campestrU^ the Empetrum nU 
ffruntf and the common juniper. In the woods, we have the Convalla" 
ria majalis^ and in great abundance the Jsperula odoratd. The 
Adoxa moschatellina has secured its residence among the shady 
moist rocks, and in the marshes, the Myrica gale. Hardwood of 
every description grows well in the lower part of the parish. Larch 
and spruces thrive in the plantations, though there are none of a 
very great age, all having been planted, it is believed, by the late 
Mr Speirs. The rarer and more recently introduced trees thrive 
well ; for instance, Abies Douglasice^ A. MenzezitB^ Pinus fjariceo. 
CorsiccBy P. SabincBy P. Deodarusy P> exceka. The first plant- 
ed in 1834 is 20 feet high. 

II. — Civil History. 
Secluded from social intercourse with the inhabitants of the 

surrounding district ; shut up in a narrow yet pleasant valley, on 
every side, by hills, which, till within the last fifty years, rendered 
it almost inaccessible, the inhabitants of Fintry formed a little 
community by themselves. They were content to follow the oc- 
cupations of their fathers, regardless of the changes and improve- 
ments taking place in other parts of the country. Father and son, 
through many successive generations, occupied the same farms, or 
inhabited the same cottages ; and, if they did not retrograde in their 
circumstances and comforts, they were abundantly satisfied. There 
are instances of families occupying the same farms for several cen- 
turies. In such a primitive and simple mode of life, there is little 
worthy of recording. The same mode of farming and grazing, till 
lately, was universally observed. Yet Fintry is not without its ho- 
nours. It gives a Baron's title to the principal proprietor of the pa- 
rish ; and there are still the remains of an old castle, which had evi- 
dently been a place of great strength, with its fosse and mound. It 
was the residence of the Grahams of Fintry in other times. It stood 
on the south side of the Fintry Hill, in full view of Sir John de Gra- 
ham's Castle, in the parish of St Ninians, with which, no doubt, in 
less happy times, intercourse was kept up by signal. Sir John de 
Graham's Castle was burnt down by Edward I. after the battle of 
Falkirk. Both these castles have long been in ruins; and many of 
the stones have been removed, for the purposes of building dikes and 



FINTRY. 43 

&rin-houses in the neighbourhood. The dilapidation, of late years, 
has been so great, that it seems probable, in a short time, nothing 
will remain, to mark out the place where such monuments of feu- 
dal pomp and pride stood. 

Two heritors, we have said, the Duke of Montrose and Mr 
Speirs of Culcreuch, possess the whole lands in the parish. Mr 
Speirs is the only residing heritor. Culcreuch House is situate 
at the west extremity of the Fintry Hill, and embosomed in wood, 
a great part of which is fine old timber ; notwithstanding its bar- 
tizans and thick walls, it is commodious, and yields to no other 
residence in the country, for the venerableness of its appearance, 
and the "beauty of its situation. The father of the present pro- 
prietor, the late Peter Speirs, Esq., a gentleman whose memory 
will long be cherished with much affection, not only by the parish of 
Fintry, but by all who had the happiness to live under him or near 
him, added much to the value of the property and the beauty of the 
place, by extensive plantations, all of which are now in a very thriving 
condition. Were His Grace to follow so good an example, by plant- 
ing clumps and belts in the upper part of the parish, its appearance 
liould not only be greatly improved, but the farms would be great- 
ly benefited by the shelter for their cattle, which such plantations 
would afford. The Duke is the principal heritor. 

Parochial Registers. — Parochial registers belonging to the ses- 
sion have been kept from a remote date. The oldest is dated 
1632. Some of them have fallen into careless hands, and been 
much injured : some altogether lost. Marriages and baptisms 
have been registered for upwards of a century. A registry of 
deaths has been kept, only since 1826. 

Births registered during the last seven years are 149, average 21^ 
Marriages, ... 65, 9Sf 

Deaths, . . . 188, 19i^ 

In the obituary of the above years, 39 are recorded to have died 
\mder twenty years of age ; 23 above seventy— of the latter, two 
Vrere seventy-eight, two eighty, one eighty-two, one eighty-three, 
three eighty- four, one ninety- one. 

III. — Population. 
In 1755, the number of the inhabitants was 891. After this pe- 
riod, the farms were enlarged, by the union of several small farms. 
The consequence of this was, that many of the small tenants were 
ejected, and obliged to seek a subsistence for themselves and fami- 
lies, elsewhere. Accordingly, in 1791, there is a decrease of popu- 
lation to the amount of 348. About this time, however, a change of 



44 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

an opposite nature caused a great increase of the population. Mr 
Speirs erected a large cotton factory, which required many 
hands ; and, to accommodate this new population, a village was 
built, which now contains about 650 souls. In consequence of 
this, the population is now nearly double that of 179 L 

Populatioa ptr census in 1801, . 956 

1811, 1003 

1821, , 1002 

1831 , . 1051 

This population is disposed of as follows : families, 203. Of 
these, 24 families are employed in agriculture; 131 in trade, 
manufacture, &c ; 48 families not employed in any of the above 
ways. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — This parish contains about 

12,800 imperial acres of land. Of these, about 1000 acres are 

arable ; considerably upwards of 100 are under wood ; and the rest, 

bill and moor pasture. 

Sent of Land. — The arable land low down in the valley, on 
the banks of the Endrick, lets at L.d per acre. Cows are grazed 
on such land for L.4 ; on hill pasture for L.2. The rent of th« 
whole parish is L.d822. The annual value of the real property 
in Fintry, as assessed in April 1815, was L. 4126. 

Rate of Wages. — Labourers' wages are Is. 8d. per day ; me- 
chanics, ds. 6d. ; tailors. Is. 6d. with meat. Farm-servants ge- 
nerally live in the farmer's house; their wages are from L.IO to 
L. 20 per annum. Women servants have from L.6 to L. 8 per 
annum. 

Husbandry. — Oats and barley are the staple grains, though the 
produce is far from equal ling the consumption. There may be, at an 
average, about 840 bolls of oats; barley, somewhat more than a third 
of that quantity annually. The late Mr Speirs gave his tenants 
good houses and farm-steadings. The Duke has begun to do so 
in his barony, in a very superior style. A house and farm-steading, 
lately erected in the upper part of the parish, cost, it is believed, 
nearly L.1000. New farm-houses are very much wanted. 

Grazing. — Stock of sheep and cattle chiefly occupies the at- 
tention of the farmer. On this, he depends for the payment of 
his rent. The parish is well calculated for such kind of farm- 
ing. It possesses very superior pasture, and is conveniently situat- 
ed for the great cattle and sheep-markets, Falkirk, Balgair, &c 



FINTRY. 45 

There are only twelve farmers in the whole parish, and, with the 
exception of two, they all possess extensive sheep-farms. The 
stock of the whole parish consists of 4000 sheep, 900 cattle, and 
200 milk cows. The cows are generally of the Ayrshire breed. 
One farmer keeps 25 cows; another 15; most of them 12» 
They make excellent butter and common cheese, for which they get 
a ready sale in the villages or towns in the neighbourhood. They 
rear a good many calves also. But they depend chiefly for their 
supply of cattle stock on the markets in the neighbourhood. In ear- 
ly summers, they purchase, at these markets, what stock they think 
will be sufficient for their summer's pasture. These, together with 
their winterers, (cattle laid on, in the end of the season, to consume 
their sprits and bog-hay, of which, in general, their farms yield a 
good supply, *) they take to one or other of the Falkirk harvest, 
trysts; and J if they succeed in securing L. 1, 10s. a piece for their 
summer's grass, they do not complain. It frequently hap- 
pens, however, that they do not obtain nearly that sum. The 
cattle-market has been, for years back, quite a game of chance. 
Sheep are a more steady and a more sure stock. Our hills raise 
excellent lambs, for which a ready sale is got from the butchers in 
Glasgow. The wool, too, of late years, has yielded a high price ; 
and altogether, from such stocks the farmer has a better prospect 
of a fiiir remuneration. Open drains are now cut very commonly 
along the sides of our hills, which have very much improved the 
sheep pasture, by carrying off the superfluous moisture. 

Manufactures. — Alhision has been made to a large cotton 
factory in this parish. It was erected by the late Mr Speirs, 
upwards of forty-five years ago. It occasioned a very great change 
in the aspect of the parish. In some respects, it may have 
been an advantage to the parish. It has perhaps occasioned 
the improvement of our roads, and it promotes a readier sale for 
much of our farm produce. But it is much to be feared, it has hitherw 
to been of no benefit to the proprietors. It is at a great distance 
from coals. It is eighteen miles from Glasgow; and cotton and 
yarn are carried, by a very hilly road, from and to it, at a very great 

• The mott abundant source of meadow hay Is the Carron Bog, an immense track 
of meadow Iwid on the banks of the river Carron, commencing in Fintry, and thence 
passiog into Kilsyth and St Ninians. This meadow extends in length fully three 
iniles, and averages in breadth about 400 yards ; though in some places its breadth is 
little short of a mile. It contains 358 acres. The hay it produces is excellent, and 
■o abundant* that it supplies not only the farms to which it is atuched, but much of 
it is told to £urmers not so well supplied, at the rate of from T^. 1, ds to L. 2 per 
•ere. When sold in the prepared state, it brings from 4d. to 6d. per stone, MoordmE 
to the state of the rye-grass crop. ^^ 



46 STIRL!NGSH!RK. 

expense* It contains upwards of 20,000 spindles, and employs 
constantly 260 hands. The mill people of Fintry are quiet, so- 
ber, and industrious. 

In the village, a distillery w^s erected by Messrs Cowan and Com- 
pany in 1816, and is now in active ^operation. It distils annually 
70,000 gallons of whisky, entirely from malt. This whisky is chief- 
ly carried to Glasgow, where it commands a ready market, having 
long maintained a high character. There is, also, a small wool 
factory in the parish ; but since the wool has risen to so exorbi- 
tant a price, it has scarcely been in operation. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
For several years, a public coach ran from Kippen, through Pin- 
try, thrice a week to Glasgow; but, for want of encouragement, 
it is now withdrawn. There is no post-office in the parish, nor 
any nearer than Campsie, Balfron, or Kippen, the nearest of 
which places is distant from Fintry six miles. ' But we have car- 
triers of various descriptions to Glasgow, every alternate day. 
Ecclesiastical State, — The church is a very neat, plain building, 
with a tower on the west end. It was built in 1823, and contains 
500 sittings. It is three-quarters of a mile from the village, but 
quite in the centre of the parish. Indeed, with the exception of 
eight families, all are within a mile and a half of the church. It 
is an oblong square, with a gallery in one end, and the pulpit in 
the other. It is now sufficiently large; but if the population 
should be increased, it might easily be enlarged. The average 
number of communicants is about 380. There is no other pub- 
lic place of worship in the parish. The few Dissenters that are 
in it, go to one or other of the meeting-houses in Balfron. * 
The manse is a new building, and promises to be a very conve- 
nient and good house. The old manse has been converted into 
offices. It was built in 1732. The glebe contains nine Scotch 
acres, all now arable, and can be let at L. 3 per acre. The 
stipend is 44 bolls meal, 5 bolls, 3j pecks barley, and L.24, lOs. 
money. L.91, 17s. 6d. is drawn from the Exchequer. 

Education. — There is one parish school. The salary is the 
maximum, with a dwelling-house, and ground for a garden to the 
teacher. There is also a Sunday school in the village well at- 
tended ; and under the superintendence of the minister. A free 

* There are about thirty Dissenters in the parish, including two Bereans and 
four Roman Catholics. A few of them belong to the Rcliei', but the greater part 
to the United Associate S^nod. 



FINTRY. 47 

school has lately been erected in the village for the benefit of the 
parish, but chiefly for the children of those employed at the 
cotton-mill. The sum of L. 3000 was mortified for this purpose 
by the late Mr John Stewart, who carried on a mercantile busi- 
ness in Fintry for nearly fifty years, and died in 1836. The 
building is elegant and commodious, and includes a house for the 
teacher* The school is, at present, attended by about 100 day- 
scholars, and from 50 to 60 evening scholars. Mr Stewart also 
left L. 500 to form a fund for a Savings' Bank in Fintry. 

Literature. — There is a small subscription library in the parish, 
which was established about nine years ago. The books were 
read with eagerness, for two or three years after it was opened, 
but they are now much neglected. The taste for reading has de- 
creased. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons receiving 

parochial aid, is from 9 to 16. The highest allowance that has 

been given, for years past, is L. 1 per quarter. A cart of coals in 

addition is given to the most needful, in very severe winters. Some 

get 15s., some 10s. or less, according to their necessities. There 

is no regular assessment in the parish ; but for the last ten or twelve 

years, the heritors have assessed themselves voluntarily in a small 

sum, varying, according to circumstances, from L. 10 to L. 20. 

With this exception, the poor are supported wholly by collections 

at the church, amounting to about L. 30 per annum, the interest 

of a fund of L.400, and by mortcloth and proclamation dues. The 

whole expenditure (including session-clerk, precentor's, and belU 

man's salaries, &c.) amounts to about L.60 per annum. 

Inns. — There are five licensed public-houses in the parish. 

Fuel. — Coals are generally carted twelve miles, from Kirkintilloch, 

by a very hilly road, at the rate, for some time past, of L.1* per 

ton ; or from Bannockburn or Banknock still farther. There are 

coals at Campsie, distant only eight milCs ; but the others are pre- 

ferred. 

• They are now reduced to about 15s. per ton. 

Revised March 1841. 



PARISH OF GARGUNNOCK. 

PRESBYTERY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. JAMES LAURIE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The ancient name of the parish is Gargownno ; its 
modern name, Oargunnock. It is probably derived from the 
Celtic words Caer-guineachj which signify a sharp or conical for- 
tress. A fortress of this kind, called the Peel of GarguDoock, 
was situated near the north-east boundaries of the parish. 

Extent and Boundaries, — The length of the parish is 6 miles^ 
and its breadth 4 miles; and it contains about 20 square miles. 
It is bounded on the east and south by St Ninians ; on tbe'^west, 
by Fin try, Balfron, and Kippen ; and on the north, by Kincar- 
dine and Kilmadock. The Lennox hills, which run from Stirling 
to Dumbarton, extend through the breadth of the parish on the 
south. The greater part, by far, of the parish lies on the north 
side of these hills ; and, from their base, the land slopes gradually 
till it runs into the level plain, or carse ground, which is bounded 
by the windings of the Forth. The height of the Lennox hills 
above the level of the sea, is about 1400 feet ; and from their sum- 
mits, there is one of the most extensive and finest views in ScoU 
land, comprehending, perhaps, more than 12,000 square miles. 

Climate. — The temperature of the atmosphere is mild, and the 
climate wet, but not unhealthy. 

Hydrography. — There are in the parish a number of perennial 
springs, flowing from tilly or gravelly subsoils, resting on red and 
white sandstone rocks, which supply the inhabitants with abun- 
dance of excellent water. At the Burn of Boquhan, which forms 
the western boundary of this parish, there are two chalybeate 
springs, one on each side of the burn, perhaps little inferior to 
the Dunblane and Airthrey wells, though not so celebrated. 

The Forth is the only river in this parish. Its average breadth, 
where it forms the northern boundary of the parish, is 60 feet, and 
its average depth 12 feet. There are several cascades on the north 



GAUGUNNOCK. 49 

side of the Lennox hills ; one of them attracts particular attention 
in this neighbourhood ; it is about one mile from the manse, and, 
in time of heavy rains, it has a grand appearance, and is heard at 
a considerable distance. 

Geology, — The rocks of the Lennox hills are composed chiefly of 
trap or whiostone. In the gently sloping lands, between the hills and 
the carse, strata of red and white sandstone are found everywhere, 
under the soil and subsoil. Under the strata of white sandstone, 
there is abundance of limestone of different depths. It is the 
opinion of some men of experience, that there is plenty of coal on 
the estate of Gargunnock ; of which there are several indications, 
although no steps have been taken to ascertain the fact. There 
are also some veins of spar near the hills. There is great abun- 
dance of peat on the level parts of the Lennox hills ; and trees 
have been dug out of the moss ; which is an evidence that the hills, 
in ancient times, must have been covered with wood to their very 
summits. 

The lands of the parish consist of various kinds of soil, which 
are denominated moor, dry field, and carse. The moor consists 
of wet gravelly, and clayey soil; none of it is ploughed except a 
few acres near the sheep farm of Burnfoot, on the estate of Bo-> 
quhan. The most part of the moor affords sound healthy pasture for 
sheep and black-cattle, in the summer months. The term dryfield 
18 not descriptive of the nature of the soil, but is used merely to 
distinguish it from the moor and carse lands. The soil of the 
dryfield js, in general, sandy and clayey; but some of it is rich 
loam, where it joins the carse. The average depth of the soil of 
tbe dryfield is six or seven inches ; it rests on a subsoil of gravel 
or till, and under this subsoil are found strata of red and white 
sandstone. The soil of the carse lands consists of three or four 
feet of mixed clay of excellent quality, which lies on a subsoil of 
yellow or blue clay ; but the blue clay prevails. And below this 
blue clay, a bed of sea shells is deposited about ten feet from the 
surface. This bed of shells, it is said, is found everywhere in 
the rich and beautiful Strath of Monteath, which is twenty miles 
long, and in some places betwixt three and four miles broad. In 
some places along the banks, where the carse joins the dryfield, 
the ground has the appearance of having been washed at one time 
by a river, or by the waves of the sea. These facts prove almost 
to demonstration, that the whole of this picturesque and beautiful 
strath, has, at a remote period, been covered with the sea ; and after 

STIRLING. D 



50 STIRUNGSHIllK. 

the sea had receded, as it has evidently done in later times, from this 
part of the country, a forest, in the lapse of ages, must have grown. 
All this beautiful part of Scotland, both hill and dale, was covered 
vrith wood, and formed a part of the ancient Caledonian forest We 
are informed by the history of the Romans, who conquered this 
country, and kept possession of it about 500 years, that the Cale- 
donian forest was cut down by the Roman soldiers in the beginning 
of the third century. The marks of their hatchets have been seen 
on many of the large trees, lying beside their immense roots. And 
on the north side of the Forth, in the parish of Kincardine, where 
Mr Home Drummond of Blair Drummond, and Colonel Graham of 
Meiklewood, have cleared away the moss, to the depth of 12 or 15 
feet — roots were seen as thick as trees in a forest. Part of a Roman 
spear was found on Colonel Graham's propeirty, and also some 
smooth stones, in the shape of gun flints, which are supposed to 
have been used by the aborigines in flaying cattle. 

Zoology, — Roe-deer breed in great numbers, in the glen of Bo- 
quhan, at the western boundary of this parish. They also frequent 
occasionally the glen of Leckie, which affords an excellent cover 
for game, and which^the proprietor, Mr Moir, has with flne taste, 
and at great expense, beautified with winding paths and shrubs 
on both sides of the wobded banks of the bum. In the woods 
are seen, squirrels, foxes, polecats or foumarts, badgers, weasels, 
hedgehogs, hares, and rabbits. And besides the common speoies 
of small birds, there are pheasants, crows, jackdaws, magpies, 
woodcocks, wood-pigeons, grouse, partridges, snipes, wild-ducks, 
herons and hawks. The herons have, for time immemorial, built 
their nests on a row of Scotch firs, near the mansion-house of 
Meiklewood; but since the new house was built, they have taken 
their departure. The hawks build their nests on the almost inac- 
cessible clifis of Ballochleam, These are the falcon hawks ; and 
gentlemen in several parts of England have sent repeatedly to take 
their young, for the purpose of taming them for hunting. 

The cattle which are reared in the parish, are generally of the 
Ayrshire breed. Black-faced sheep are bred ; because it is the 
opinion of the farmers, that this kind agrees best with the soiL 
Some very strong, handsome, and valuable horses of the Clydes- 
dale breed, are reared. Hogs, both of a small and large kind, are 
bred* 

The river Forth abounds with perch, pike, and eels; but trout 
and salmon are not so plentiful, since moss began to be cast into 



GARGUNNOCK. 51 

the rirer. The time when the salmon go up to the higher streams 
to spawn, is in the end of October and the beginning of Novem- 
ber ; and they return about the beginning of January. There is 
abundance of fine trout in the burns of Boquhan, Leckie, and 
Gai^unnock ; and likewise in the burns which form the bound- 
aries of this parish, on the south side of the Lennox hills. 

II. — Civil History. 

We are informed by tradition, that, in the year 1746, Prince 
Charles the Pretender passed the Forth at the ford of Frew, 
breakfasted at Boquhan, and slept at Leckie. 

iMnd-aumers. — The chief land-owners are, Charles Alex- 
ander Moir, Esq. of Leckie, who is the first heritor of the pa- 
rish. The barony of Leckie extends through the length of the 
parish, from the south side of the Lennox hills to the river 
Forth. It therefore contains moor, dry-field, and carse lands. 
The next heritor, in point of valuation, is Henry Fletcher Camp- 
bell, Esq. of Boquhan. The barony of Boquhan runs parallel 
with the barony of Leckie on the west, and has the same kind of 
soils. The third heritor is John Stirling, Esq. of Gargunnbck, 
who 18 a minor. The barony of Gargunnock runs parallel with 
tbe barony of Leckie on the east. The fourth heritor is David 
Orabam, Esq. of Meiklewood. The fifth is Henry Seton Stewart, 
Esq. of Touch. The sixth is Mr Young of Easter Culmore. 
And the seventh is, Mr Kerr of Mosshead. 

Parochial Reffisters. — The earliest entry in the parish registers 
18 dated 1615. The registers are voluminous ; and, upon the whole, 
ihey have been regularly kept ; but, owing to accident or careless- 
ness, the registers of the last forty years of the seventeenth cen- 
tury have been lost. Since that time, many marriages, births, bap- 
tisms, and burials have been omitted to be recorded : and in con- 
sequence, several valuable legacies have been lost to the nearest 
heir. 

Antiquities, — The Keir-hill was a fortified place, in the end 
of the thirteenth century. It is considerably elevated, and is of 
an oval figure, and has been surrounded by a rampart; it is 
near the confluence of two rivulets which unite at the east end 
of the rillage ; and there must have been a ditch to the south. 
The circumference of the summit is about 140 yards. At 
the summer sacrament, the tent is placed at the bottom of the 
Keir-hill, and the people sit on its gently sloping side, and form 
an interesting sight The Peel of Gargunnock has been a much 



^ 



52 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

larger fortification than the Keir-hill. It was situated on a rising 
ground about fifty yards from the Forth, where that river takes a 
direction to the north, and about fifty or sixty yards east from the 
mouth of the bum of Gargunnock. It was surrounded by a ram- 
part and a ditch. Part of the ditch is still visible on the south, 
where it communicates with the burn. There is not a vestige of 
the Peel now remaining : the plough passes over the place where 
it once stood ; and the site must be pointed out to the inquiring 
stranger. The use of the Peel is supposed to have been for the 
protection of a ford, formed in the Forth by the influx of the bum. 
There was also a small fortress about three miles up the river, for 
the defence of the Ford of Frew. There is an account of the 
Peel of Gargunnock, in the history of Sir William Wallace. This 
patriotic and brave man and his followers were in possession of the 
Keir-hill, from whence they sallied forth, and attacked and put to 
flight the English who were stationed in the Peel. Wallace and his 
men crossed the Forth, on their way to the moss of Kincardine, by 
the bridge of Offers, part of the mins of which is still to be seen, 
about half a mile above the Peel. Between the old bridge of 
Offers and the Peel, and very near the new line of the Dumbar- 
ton road, a substantial and handsome suspension-bridge was erected 
nine years ago, by Colonel Graham of Meiklewood. He also made 
and repaired, at his own expense, a new line of road from the 
bridge, to the great road from Stirling to Callendar, a distance of 
two miles. A communication has thus been opened up, through 
this rich and beautiful strath of country. The public are much 
indebted to Colonel Graham, who, in this undertaking, has dis- 
played a well-informed mind, and a most liberal and public spirit. 
At Ballochleam, near the west end of this parish, a battle was 
fought between the Grahams and the Leckies, the date of which 
is not recorded. The late learned and accomplished Lieutenant- 
General Fletcher Campbell of Boquhan alludes to this battle in 
a curious manuscript left by him. " The ballad," says he, " that 
celebrated the battle of Ballochleam, was still sung by' a lady of 
our days. The Leckies must have been of considerable numbers 
at that time, if they could cope with the Grahams. Ballochleam 
signifies the hollow of the leap. In the hollow of one of those fields, 
searching for limestone, an old tenant found some pieces of brass 
armour, with the points of spears, and a great quantity of diffierent 
kinds of bones. He said he intended to go on, but a thought came 
that he might raise the plague." There was also a tower belong- 

3 



GARGUNNOCK* 53 

ing to the Grahams, who were Barons of Boquhan. The ruins of 
this aDcient tower were dug up, about eighty years ago, in the field 
of Old Hall ; and at that time, some aged men remembered the 
old iron door and grated windows. The glen of Boquhan is so 
grand and romantic, with wild and beautiful scenery, that it is 
sometimes called Trosachs. About a mile above the glen, the 
burn which descends from Ballochleam has washed out, in the soft 
freestone rocks, some very curious shapes, resembling wells and 
caldrons. 

Manrion^houses, — Mr Moir of Leckie has lately built a very 
elegant, commodious, and beautiful house, after the plan of the 
ancient English baronial mansion-houses. It stands on a higher 
situation than the old mansion-house of Leckie, and has a com- 
aianding view of the picturesque and beautiful strath of Monteath. 
And when the approach and pleasure grounds are finished, it will 
be one of the finest gentleman's seats in the country. Colonel 
Graham has built a very beautiful house at Meiklewood, near the 
site of the old mansion-house, and it is a prominent object among 
the fine old trees which surround it. 

III. — Population. 

The population in 1795 was 956 

1793, 830 
1833, 908 

The decrease is partly owing to the enlargement of farms, two 
or three.having been put into one ; and partly owing to emigra- 
tion to other parishes. The number of the population in the vil- 
lage is 466 ; and in the country part of the parish it is 442. 

'Hie yearly average of births for tlie lait seven years is, 24 

deaths, - - - 9 

marriages, - • 12 

The number of persons under 15 years of age, - 305 

between ]5 and 30, - 279 

30 and 50, - 207 

50 and 70, - 97 

uDwards of 70, - 20 

Hie number of bachelors and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, 16 

unmarried women upwards of 45, - - 47 

The average number of children in each family is about 3^. 
The number of male servants below twenty, is 46 ; and above 
twenty, 50; and the number of female servants below twenty, 
18 48; and above twenty, 51. 

Mr Moir of Leckie, Mr Campbell of Boquhan, and Colonel 
Graham of Meiklewood, are resident heritors. Gargunnock House 
ii at present occupied by Mrs Stirling of Gargunnock, and her 
family. The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value o{ 
L.50 and upwards is 7. 



54 STIRLINGSHIBE. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The number of cultivated acres in the parish, 
imperial measure, is 5332 ; the number of acres which have never 
been culti^ted, and which are in pasture, is 3762 ; the number of 
acres under wood, both natural and planted, is 574. The different 
kinds of trees which are planted, and which have been already 
mentioped under the head of Natural History, are, oak, asb^ 
Scotch and silver fir, larch, plane, elm, willow, and birch. The 
indigenous or natural wood consists chiefly of oak, ash, birch, and 
willow. The woods are under good management, and are regular* 
ly thinned, pruned, and felled, at the proper periods. 

Rent of Land* — The average rent of dry field is from L. I, 5s« 
to L.2 per acre ; and of carse land from L.2, 5s. to L.3 per acre. 
'Mr Moir of Leckie has lately let some capital farms at L. 3, Ss» 
per acre. The average rent of grazing in the high lands, is at the 
rate of 15s^ to L. 1, 5s, per ox or cow, and in the lowlands at the 
rate of L^ 3 ; and at the rate of 6^ per ewe or full-grown she^ 
pastured for a year* 

Wages. — The rate of labour^ winter and summer, for different 
kinds of farm- work, is jfirom 9s. to lOs. per week. The rate of 
wages for male farm-servants is from L. 12 to L. 18; and for fe- 
male-servants, from L.5 to L.7 per annum. Masons' and carpen- 
ters' wages are 14s. per week. 

Live-Stock. — Particular attention has been paid to the improve- 
ment of the breed of black-faced sheep, and of cattle of the Ayr- 
shire kind. 

With respect to the rotation of crops, it is as follows, viz. dry- 
field, three years pasture; if limed upon the sward, two crops of 
oats, but if not limed, one crop of oats; next, green crop of 
potatoes or turnips ; then barley ; and after that hay. The rota- 
tion of crops on the carse-land is, Ist^ summer fallow ; 2dy wheat ; 
Se/, beans ; 4M, barley ; 5/A, hay ; 6M, oats. In some farms where 
the soil is dry, the tenant pastures two years. 

WedgC'Draining. — The wedge drain is three feet deep, twelve 
inches broad at the top, and two inches broad at the bottom. 
Three kinds of spades and a cleaner are used in digging it ; Is*, a 
common spade ; 2<f, a spade four inches broad at the point ; 3rf, 
a spade two inches broad at the point. The clay is dug out with 
a gradual slope on both sides to the bottom. The cleaner is in 
the form of a half-cyhnder, about a foot or fourteen inches long, 
with a wooden handle, five or six feet in length. With this the 



GARGUNNOCK. 55 

^by is cleaDed out of the bottom of (he drain. Then peat or hard 
c;lay, and sometimes feed or green' turf, fourteen inches long, four 
inches broad, from three to five inches deep, and sloped at the 
mnda, is pressed firm into the drain, with the grassy side down- 
^^ards, leaving a space of five or six inches from the bottom ; and 
^en it is filled with clay to the top. The wedge drains are 15 or 
18 feet apart This mode of draining is a very great improve- 
vient. There is another kind of draining, which is a great im- 
provement to the dryfield. It is called wedge or furrow«draining. 
The leading drains are, at least, three feet deep. They are laid 
irith tiles at the bottom, with a foot of broken stones above them, 
somewhat larger than road metal. The other drains are two feet 
and a half deep, laid also with broken stones, about a foot or four- 
teen inches deep. The drains are about 15 or 18 feet apart. The 
wettest land may, in this manner, be made completely dry and va- 
luable. Mr Campbell of Boquhan is of opinion, that the greatest 
part of the dryfield land in the parish might be increased almost 
half its value, by this mode of draining. And he strongly re* 
commends this way of draining in all the carse lands, instead 
of the present system of wedge-draining ; and the reason he as- 
signs is that the Jeal or turf-draining continues good for six or 
eight years only, whereas the stone-draining will last for many 
years. Trench-ploughing above the stone drains is also a great 
icDprovement. This is done by a two-horse plough turning ofi" the 
Soil six inches ; then by the trench-plough^ drawn by four horses, 
immediately following, and opening the subsoil ten inches more, 
>irbich makes a furrow sixteen inches deep to the very top of the 
^tones* 

Farms are let on leases of nineteen years, which is consi- 
dered advantageous to the tenants. The farm onsteads are, in 
general, substantially built and commodious, and suited to the size 
^:^f the farms. The dryfield and carse lands are conveniently en- 
^csed with flourishing hedges, which are regularly pruned, and 
^ept in good repair. There are whinstone, and red and white 
freestone quarries in the parish. The former are blasted with 
^npowder, and the latter with plug, and feather, and wedges, 
l^otatoes, turnips, and sometimes cabbages are cultivated with 
great success, being fine in quality, and abundant in quantity. 
There is not much meadow-hay in the parish. The most of it is 
rye-grass sown with clover. 

The late General F. Campbell of Boquhan instituted the Far- 



56 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

mers' Club in this parish, in the year 1796; and in 1807 he en- 
riched it by his bequest of L.500 Steriing. Eleven parishes are 
entitled to the benefit of it, viz. Gargunnock, Stiriing, St Ninians, 
Kippen, Fintry, Balfron, Killearn, Drymen, Port, Kincardine, 
and Kilmadock. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market'Town. — The nearest market-town is Stirling, which is 
about six miles distant from the church and village. 

Village. — There is only one village in the parish, very near the 
church, and situated on the eastern declivity of a small hill. The 
view from the top of the village, near the schoolmaster's house, is 
one of the richest and most beautiful of the Strath of Monteath. 
Almost the whole parish is seen from this commanding spot The 
prospect is bounded on the south by the Lennox hills ; on the west, 
by Ben-Lomond ; on the north, by Ben-Ledi and the Grampian 
mountains; and on the east, by the Ochil hills and Stirling Castle. 
The whole strath, from Gartmore to Stirling, stretches out before 
the eye like a beautiful map, adorned with many gentlemen's 
seats, enriched with a vast variety of corn-fields, and rendered pic^ 
turesque and interesting in a high degree by the windings of the 
Forth, and the delightful scenery of the low and rising grounds. 
The village is situated in the barony of Gargunnock. The lower 
part of it was feued, between eighty and ninety years ago, at the 
rate of L.l an acre; the upper part was feued at a later period, 
at the rate of L.2 per acre. Each feu has half an acre of ground 
attached to it, which is a great benefit to the inhabitants. 

Means of Communication. — There is no post-ofiice in the vil- 
lage; but a postman passes through the parish about ten o'clock 
in the forenoon, on his way to Kippen, and returns about three 
o'clock in the afternoon, which is a great accommodation to the 
parishioners. The great road betwixt Stirling and Dumbarton 
passes through the breadth of the parish, for the distance of four 
miles. A new line of road was made, some time ago, through the 
carse grounds, about half a mile from the church and village. No 
stage-coaches travel on this turnpike road, except the stage- 
coach from Kippen to Stirling, every Friday, which returns on the 
same day, for the accommodation of people going to, and return- 
ing from, the Stirling market The bridges and fences of the pa- 
rish are kept in good repair. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is conveniently situated 
for the greater part of the population. It is distant from the eastern 



GARGUNNOCK. 57 

eitremity of the parish one mile and a half, and from the western 
extremity two miles and a half. It was built in the year 1774, 
and is in a state of good repair, and affords accommodation for 500 
sitters. The seats of the church are free. The manse was built 
about the year 1750. It was enlarged and repaired io the year 
1602; and nine years ago it was again enlarged and thoroughly re- 
paired, soon after the present incumbent came to the parish, and it 
is now a commodious and comfortable house. The church and 
manse are situated on a rising ground, about 50 or 60 yards from 
one another. Few situations are more eligible, in point of roman- 
tic and beautiful scenery. The extent of the glebe, including the 
garden, is 7 acres; and the value of it is about L.20 per annum. 
The amount of the stipend is 148 bolls of oatmeal, and 2 bolls of 
barley, and L.25, lis. 3|d. from the Court of Exchequer, to aug- 
ment the stipend to L. 150. There is L. 9, Is. IJd. for commu- 
oioD elements. The number of families attending the Established 
Church is 1 95 ; and the total number of persons of all ages con- 
nected with it, is 880. The number of Seceders is 8 ; of Episcopa- 
lians is 9. Divine service at the Established Church is well at- 
tended ; and the average number of communicants is 340. The sa- 
csrament is dispensed twice a-year. The winter sacrament was com- 
^^nenced by the late faithful and much respected Dr Robertson of 
-South Leith, when he was minister of this parish, upwards of forty 
^ears ago. The expenses are defrayed by collections at the 
church gate. Collections are made regularly for the five schemes 
x>f the General Assembly, and occasional collections for local so- 
cieties, such as the Stirlingshire Bible Society, &c. 

A Sabbath school was commenced eighteen years ago at the 
Burntown, by a pious female ; and fourteen years cigo, another Sab- 
bath school was opened by the parish schoolmaster, and a member 
of the congregation, who is now an elder. It was patronized by 
some members of the kirk- session and others. The Sabbath 
school, so auspiciously begun, has continued to the present time; 
and last summer it was attended by nearly 100 children, and the 
school at the Burntown by 36. 

State of Religion. — This parish has been highly favoured with 
many pious ministers ; and at the time of the revivals of religion 
in Kilsyth, Muthil, and other parishes, in the year 1742, this pa- 
rish was also visited with the outpouring of the Spirit. And it is 
mentioned in Mr Robe's Narrative, that about 100 individuals 
were brought to the knowledge of the truth at that time; and that 



58 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

18 were converted on a Fast-day by a sermon preached by their 
aged pastor, the Rev. John Warden. Prayer-meetings were 
then held in several places of the parish, which continued for some 
time. The preaching of the Gospel and other means of graoe 
^have, through the Divine blessing, built up the people of God in 
their most holy faith ; and have been instrumental, from time to 
time, in bringing many to Christ. During the last two years, the 
Lord has been pleased, in answer to many prayers, to pour out 
his Spirit on Kilsyth. This wonderful event made the people of 
God more anxious and more earnest in prayer for the Spirit ; and 
the ministers whose parishes were visited in the year 1742, were 
very desirous that the Lord would again manifest his power and 
grace among them ;. and accordingly, in this parish, many week- 
day sermons were preached, which excited an interest in the 
people. Several of the neighbouring ministers were invited, and 
kindly came and preached on these occasions. The Rev. Charles 
F. Buchan, a devoted servant of the Lord, now minister of North 
Shields, was engaged last year, in the month of March, to assist 
the minister of the parish, during the summer months, in the ear- 
nest hope that the Lord would be graciously pleased to accom- 
pany with his effectual blessing the means employed. And it is 
with much gratitude mentioned, to the praise and glory of God, 
that several individuals have been brought to see their lost condi« 
tion by nature, and to flee to Christ, the refiige set before them 
in the Gospel. Prayer meetings are again established in the pa- 
rish ; and it is humbly hoped, that this day of small things may 
be the beginning of a more plenteous effusion of the Holy Spirit ! 

Education, — There are three schools in the parish, one paro- 
chial and two unendowed schools. One of the unendowed schools 
is near the village, and is numerously attended ; the other school, 
two miles distant, is attended by a small number. It is taught 
chiefly in winter, for the accommodation of the children in the neigh« 
bourhood. The parochial schoolmaster'^s salary is L.25, 13s. d^d., 
which is the minimum. Tjie plan of teaching in the parish school 
is excellent. The average amount of fees of the largest unendow- 
ed school is L.40 per annum. An infant school was begun in the 
manse six years ago, and is taught by Mrs Lawrie. 

Literature. — A parish library was established ten years ago. 
There is also a library for the Sabbath school. A Tract Society 
was formed in February 1835. The tracts are distributed every 
month, one to each family. 



OARGUNNOCK. 59 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons on 
^lie poor roll is 7 or 8 ; and about the same number receive occa- 
sional relief. The heritors, greatly to their honour, are very at« 
Ifc^Dtive to the necessities of the poor. The average sum allotted 
"i;^ each pauper is 4s. 6d. per month. Besides the weekly collec* 
^ons at the church gate, there are other funds, which have been 
^Qoortified at different times, by charitable individuals, for the bene* 
fit of the poor. The funds for the poor consist of two sums bear- 
ug interest ; one sum of L.266, Ids. 7d. is deposited in the Bank 
^f Scotland ; and the other sum of L. d65, is lent to the trustees 
of the turnpike road between Stirling and Dumbarton. The peo- 
ple ot this parish are of an independent spirit, and they do not ap- 
ply for parish relief, except in cases of extreme necessity. 
Alehauses.^^The number of alehouses in the parish is £Dur. 
There is one distillery, on the estate of Gargunnock. 
The people in general cultivate temperate habits, and very few 
of them drink to excess. 

Fuel. — The fuel chiefly used is coal, brought from Baunockburn, 

the distance of nine miles. The price of a cart load of coals of 

15 cwt., is 1 Is. 6d, including carriage. Peats are also brought 

from the moss of Kincardine, at 3s. 6d. per cart load. A few of 

the farmers bring peats on sleds from the Lennox hills. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The present state of the parish is distinguished from that which , 

Existed forty years ago, by some striking variations and improve- 
t^ents. The elegant and beautiful house of Leckie, andalso the 
V>eautiful house of Meiklewood, Colonel Graham's suspension- 
V^ridge over the Forth, and the fine level line of road through the 
^sarse lands of the parish, did not then exist The new systems of 
>vedge or stone draining had not then been introduced and brought 
into general operation. In consequence of this superior system of 
^rai&ing, and other modern improvements in agriculture, the land 
lias increased above one-half in value; and, therefore, the rental of 
the parish has been more than doubled within the last forty years. 
The rental was then stated at L.3000; it is now upwards of 
L6500. The new line of road through the carse lands has been 
much improved, though it has lost much, in point of scenery. The 
oU Dumbarton road, which, at the time when the last Statistical 
Account was written, passed by Touch, Gargunnock House, the 
manse, and church, and village, Leckie, and Boquhan, to the vil- 
lage of Kippeo, was in many places beautified with fine scenery ; 



60 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

and the views from the rising grounds were varied, extensive, 
lively, and interesting. It is the opinion of some gentlemen, that 
the internal communication of the parish would be much improv- 
ed, were a new line of road made from Fintry, through the east 
end of Balfron parish, and by the foot of the Lennox hills, above 
Boquhan and Leckie, till it passes between the village and the 
church, and joins the new line of the Dumbarton road, near the 
new bridge which has been erected over the Forth. Others are of 
the opinion, that the new road from Fintry, instead of coming 
above Leckie, and past the east end of the village, should come 
down betwixt Boquhan and Leckie to the Dumbarton road. Were 
this line of new road to be made through the dryfield part of this 
parish to Fintry, it would be the nearest road from Dunblane and 
that neighbourhood, to the city of Glasgow. 

March 184L 



PARISH OF KILLEARN. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. JOHN GRAHAM, D.D. MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name* — Killbarn seems to be compounded of three Celtic 
words, Kill-ear-rhin, signifying the cell or church of west-point. 
This etymology is descriptive of the situation, which is at the west- 
ern extremity of the Campsie Fells, a mountainous ridge running 
eastward from Killearn to Kilsyth, a distance of twenty miles. It 
is farther conBrmed by the circumstance, that the rising ground, a 
little below the site of the church, near the confluence of Enrick 
and Blane, still bears the name of Rhin, or Point. 

Extent, — The parish is of an irregular figure. Its length is 12 
miles ; its breadth, where greatest, 4, but at an average SJ. It 
contains 27 square miles, and probably 17,000 acres. It is situated 
in Strathenrick, now the western district of Stirlingshire, but ori- 
ginally a part of Lennox, or Dumbartonshire. 

Topographical Appearances, — The lowest part of the parish, at 
the confluence of Enrick and Blane, is about forty feet above the 



KILLEARN. 61 

level of the sea^ and eighteen above that of LochlomoDd ; into 
^^hich the united rivers flow after a course, in a direct line, of five 
sniles* The Enrick forms the northern boundary of the parish, for 
^ight miles nearly, dividing it from the parishes of Drymen and 
Balfron. Its course is rapid, and its waters peculiarly turbid in 
time of floods ; hence probably its name, Enrick, is a compound of 
the Celtic aim, or avon^ ruadhj the red river. Along its bank, 
there is a narrow slip of alluvial soil, the most fertile and valuable 
of the parish. Receding from this, the ground gradually rises, 
formiog a sloping tract of arable land, varying from one to two 
miles in breadth. The village, with the church, and Buchanan's 
Baonument} is situated in this tract, on a rising ground command- 
ing an extensive prospect. The limit of the arable ground is 
about 500 feet above the level of the sea ; at one place, Tam- 
Detberskins, * the height above that level exceeds 600. Still 
bigher, is another belt, rising about 200 feet farther, and extend- 
ing about a mile in breadth ; which, though, in some places, shew- 
'Qg marks of the plough in former times, is now kept permanently 
ID pasture* The surface is generally mossy, incumbent on white 
freestone, and producing coarse grass where it is marshy, and 
stunted heath where it is dry. Above this, is the mountainous 
t^idge, composed of trap rock, and rising to the height of 1200 feet 
^boTe the level of the sea. Except in some steep places, particu- 
larly in the Corrie of Balglas, the rock is concealed by soil form- 
ed of the debris of trap, whose rich verdure is a striking contrast 
Xo the dark heath below. It produces white clover, and the finest 
grasses in abundance ; some patches of it^ at an elevation of 800 
ieetf seem formerly to have been under tillage. 

Hydrography, — At the southern extremity of the parish, where 
it meets Kilpatrick, there is an artificial lake, covering about 150 
acres, — a reservoir to supply water during summer to the Partick 
mills, on the Kelvin near Glasgow, — as the sources of that river 
were taken to form the summit reservoir of the Forth and Clyde 
Canal. Besides the Enrick and Blane, already alluded to, there 
are many rivulets descending rapidly from the mountain's brow, 
and forming numberless cascades in their course. Of these, the 
finest is in the glen of Dualt, near Killearn House, where in a 
deep wooded ravine, amid many smaller falls, the rivulet rushes 

• Tamnethcrskins is a corruption of the Celtic words Tam-na-urhkiu^ the mount 
of goblins. Tarn is a common Celtic affix to places. It may be traced as a primitive 
root in noaoy languages, e. g. tumulus in Latin is the diminutive of it, and tumeo u a 
▼Mb formed from it. The original idea is a mount, a small round eminence. 



26 STIRLINOSHIKE. 

over a perpendicular precipice of sixty feet Id the same neigh- 
bourhood, the Carnock, another rivulet, has worn a channel seventjr 
feet deep, through red sandstone.* There are also many cascades 
on the rivulets of Ballikinrain and Boquhan, the steep banks of which 
have been planted by the proprietors ; and numerous walks have 
been made along them, that the scenery may be seen to advantage* 

Minerals. — The base of this district is the old red sandstone* 
In the rising ground, a variety of strata is exposed to view by the 
action of the mountain streams, consisting of clay, lime, and free- 
stone. Of the last, which is uppermost, some quarries are wrought 
for building houses ; and one quarry near Ballikinrain, if we may 
judge from the excavation, must have been of repute, formerly, for 
mill-stones. About ten pairs are still disposed of annually ; but 
they are reckoned inferior, as they wear too. rapidly. Near the 
mill-stone quarry is a spring, holding lime in solution, and petri- 
fying the moss on its brink. The mountains are all caped with 
trap rock, which seems, at some remote period, to have been forced 
upward through the sandstone in a state of fusion. During the 
same eruption, many fissures were made, extending like radii from 
the centre of the mountain down to the valley. These fissures 
were also filled with fused trap, and furnish excellent materials for 
the roads of the district. 

In the trap formation, near the south end of the parish, there 
is a singular chasm, called the Wanzie. A transverse section of 
a hill, running east and west, seems to have slipped off, probably 
from the partial decay of the subjacent sandstone leaving it with- 
out support. The chasm is 346 feet in length. The width 
where greatest is lOj'g feet, and where least 2x\ feet. The depth 
at present is about 30 feet at a medium ; but as the bottom is 
filled with rubbish, it must have originally been much greater. It 
takes a zig-zag direction, and it is easy to mark the exactness 
with which the angles and surfaces, on one side, answer to those on 
the other. There were many fissures in the same hill, which have 
been filled up by the tenants since the introduction of sheep. 
Near the north corner of the hill, there is still one left open, run- 
ning in a zig-zag direction, 185 feet in length, and generally 6 
inches in breadth. 

• Most names of places are Celtic, and significant. The chasm of Carnock is 
called Ashdow, a corruption of Vitk-dhuy black water, from the dark appearance of 
the rivulet, as the rays of the sun rarely reach it, on account of the high precipices and 
OYerhanging woods. Carnock is a diminutive of Carron, and signifies little wind- 
ing river. Dualt flows through mossy ground ; henco its origin dhu-alty black rivulet. 
Avon or Ann is the same in sense and sound with the Latin Amn-is. 



KILLEARN. 63 

Attempts have often of late, as well as formerly, been made to 
find coal in thi3 parish and 'neighbourhood. That they Have always 
been unsuccessful, is what should be expected from the mineralogy 
of the district The Grampians, a primary range, stretching from 
Dumbarton to the east coast, are accompanied on the south by a 
secondary ridge, at a distance varying from five to fifteen miles. 
Strath Enrick is the western portion of the intervening track be- 
tween those mountainous ranges. The base is the old red sand- 
stone, in which coal is never found. In ascending the southern 
range, we Ipse the red sandstone, and find strata of lime, clay, and 
freestone, with occasionally a coal seam of three or four inches 
in thickness, — a plain indication that we are risinff to the coal 
measures. The trap rock, forming the apex of the range, covers 
the previously existing strata. Passing that interruption, we enter 
OD Campsie and Kilpatrick, the great coal-field of Scotland, cros« 
sing the breadth of the island, but lying all to the south of the 
secondary range. The searches for coal have been made, both by 
iarinff and shanking ; but, with one exception, always in the lower 
parts of Strath Enrick ; whereas common observation, as well as 
geological science, indicates that the higher regions should have 
been diligently examined, as, if a workable stratum of coal exists 
^ny where, it must be found near the verge of the trap formation. 
7Vees.-^The arable part of the parish is generally well-wooded, 
9IS regards both shelter and ornament Besides the plantations 
^%vhich surround the houses of proprietors, every glen and ravine is 
^H>vered with copse-wood. The following table contains the di- 
snensions of some remarkable trees, as measured at present, and 
Qis reported in the former Statistical Account The yew trees are 
"near the House of Ballikinrain ; the others are on the estate of 
Killeam, near the old mansion-house* 

Trves. Girth 1794. 

Yev, berry-bearing, • 8 feet inches. 
Yew, barren,* . 10 8 

Omk, . . 12 

Silrer fir, • . Not reported. 

These trees are all in vigorous growth, yet the increase during 
forty years is inconsiderable. There is a possible error in the 
comparison. The former reporter does not state the height where 
he measured the circumference. I made all the measurements at 
three feet above the ground. From many observations on yew 

■ The former reporter must hmve measured this tree, and perhaps the others, where 
thickast, as bis measurement is greater than the present at three feet above the sur- 
bee. At sii feet, near the branches, the girth is eleven feet. 



00.1834. 


Cubic conteotr 


8 feet 5 inches. 


89 feet. 


10 3 


103 


13 3 


300 


12 Oi 


302 



64 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

trees, De Candolle of Geneva calculates their average annual in- 
crease in diameter at one-twelfth of an inch, — which is more than 
double of what is shown in this table ; and by that rule the age of 
the one yew is 404 years, and of the other, 492. If we assume 
that the increase of the oak, as in the table, is 15 inches in cir- 
cumference, or 5 in diameter, during a period of forty years; 
then, on the supposition that its growth has been equable, the age 
of the tree is 424 years. The age of the silver fir is known to be 
about 100 years, while it nearly equals the oak, however old it 
may be, in circumference, and, from its greater height, exceeds it 
in cubic contents. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land-owners. — The greater part of the parish belonged, at an 
early period, to the family of Montrose, who still retain the supe- 
riority, though they have alienated all the property but one farm. 
Originally, the patron of a church was proprietor of the parish an- 
nexed to it In 1429, six churches, Cambuslang, Tarbolton, 
Eaglesham, Luss, Kirkmahoe, and Killearn, were, with consent of 
the patrons, erected into prebends of the cathedral of Glasgow.* 
Vicars were appointed afterwards to these parishes ; and, as an il- 
lustration of their comparative opulence, the stipend assigned to 
Killearn was fifteen merks, while that of the others was twenty.^- In 
that erection, Patrick Lord de Graham is mentioned as patron of 
Killearn. In 1560, William, second Earl of Montrose, gave to 
his youngest son, by a charter of that date, the lands of Killearn, 
Ibert, and Drumbeg. % A descendant of that family represented 
the county in the British Parliament, during the earlier part of 
last century. When he entered England, he could not fail to ob- 
serve the nakedness of his native land. He was the first in this 
district who attempted, by plantations, to improve the climate, and 
to adorn the country. Besides the usual forest trees, of which 
there are many beautiful specimens at Killearn, he was among the 
first that introduced the larch into Scotland. From want of time- 
ly thinning, the larch trees have not thriven, as they are remarka- 
"Ne only for extreme height; many of them being 100, and one 

* Chartulary of Glasgow, quoted in Conncl on Tythcs, Vol. iii. Appendix, No. 18. 
f The following table shows the rent of Luss and Killearn at later times :— 
Luss, Valued rent 1656, L.1500 Scots. Real rent 1841, L.7000. 
Killearn, Do. 2840 Do. Do. 6900. 

:( Douglas* Peerage — Article Montrose. These names continue still unchanged. 
Ibert, according to Dr Macleod of St Columba's, Glasgow, signifies the Well of 
Sacrifice, equiTalent to Holywell in Ireland Drumbeg is Celtic for little ridge. 



KILLEAKN. C5 

114 feet higli. In the former Statistical Account, they are 
said, when sixty years old, to be three feet in diameter ; now when 
they are upwards of 100 years, I could 6nd only one that was Q^^.j 
feet, at the height of three feet from the ground. In 1750, the 
estate was sold to Mr Scott of Glasgow, whose only dauc^hter was 
married to Sir James Montgomery, Bart., Chief Baron of the Ex- 
chequer. That excellent man here, as well as in his native county 
of Peebles, patronized rural improvement, by feuing ground for the 
Tillage, by enclosing his whole estate with hedges, and by givincr 
leases generally of 6fly-seven years, to enable his tenants to reap 
the benefit of their outlay on their farms. The result of these leases 
does not seem encouraging either to tenant or landlord. The farms 
were all let at a fair rent, varying from 5s. to L.l per acre, and 
are all arable, except one fa^ m. During the first twenty years, 
the tenants seem to have been industrious. According to the 
former reporter, " they were, on the whole, doing very well." 
Now, forty years afterwards, when some of the leases have expir- 
ed, and the others will expire in the course of four years, — more 
than one-half of the tenants have become bankrupts, and have 
been ejected : only three are wealthy, yet their houses, fences, 
and lands, are behind the average rate of improvement 

The most efficient improver in this parish, and in others with 
which be was connected, was the late Mr Dunmore of Ballikin- 
rain. In the end of last century, he introduced turnpike roads, 
cotton manufactures, and a general system of planting waste 
ground* The manufacturing establishments were unfortunate, and 
have been abandoned ; but his other rural improvements have 
been zealously followed by his son, R. D. Napier, Esq. the pre- 
sent proprietor. The other proprietors, in a descending scries, are. 
Sir Archibald Edmonstone, Bart, of Duntreath ; John Buchanan of 
Carbeth ; George Wilson of Auchniven ; Thomas B. Buchanan 
of Boquhan; William Finlay of Moss; Alexander Speirs of Cul- 
ereucb ; William Macleroy of Glenboig ; William Edmond of 
Ballocbrain ; the Messrs Provan & Co. of I^dlewan, and the Duke 
of Montrose, — all of whom have estates rented at upwards of L.50^ 
a year, and most of whom are resident. 

Eminent Men. — In the year 1506, George Buchanan, the poet 
and historian, was born at Moss, about a mile south from the 
church. Part of the house in which he was born, with a thatch- 
ed roof resting on oak spars, remained till 1812, when a modern 
house was built on the site by the late proprietor, who made out 

STIRLING. E 



66 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

of the oak spars, a chair and table, to be preserved in memory of 
Buchanan's birth. An obelisk in honour of him was erected in the 
village in 178a The height is 103 feet. The expense, which 
was defrayed by subscription, amounted to L.200 for building, and 
L.95 for scaffolding. It is said to be an exact copy of the menu* 
ment erected at Boyne, in Ireland, to commemorate the victory of 
William III., in the vear 1690. 

Buildings. — The estate of Killearn was purchased in 1814, by 
John Blackburn, Esq. of Jamaica, who has recently fitted up an 
elegant mansion-house on the banks of Blane. Mr Buchanan 
also, last summer, finished a showy castellated mansion at Car- 
beth. The manse was built in 1825, and the church in 1826; 
both are comfortable and substantial. The expense of the for- 
mer, including L.300for offices builtin 1815, was L.1100. The 
church accommodates 500 sitters, and cost L. 1050. 

III. — Population. 
The amount of the population is slowly but steadily progressive. 

After the middle of last century, there was a temporary diminu-* 
tion, occasioped by the union of small farms ; but this was more 
than compensated by the increase of the village, which ancient- 
ly contained about twenty families, clustered near the church. 
About the year 1 770, Sir James Montgomery laid the foundation 
of its improvement, by granting building-leases of 999 years. 
The rent was L. 2 per Scotch acre. The extent varied from two 
roods to six acres. As the village is far from fuel, and even from 
running water, it did not seem a place favourable for the establish- 
ment of manufactures. It was desirable, however, to prevent the 
introduction of pauperism ; and for this purpose, by the suggestion 
of the late Rev. James Graham, it was stipulated, that each pos- 
session, as originally let, was to remain entire, and to be occupied 
by only one family. As the proprietor was non-resident, this sti- 
pulation was not strictly observed. When Mr Blackburn pur- 
chased the estate of Killearn in 1814, he expressed his approba- 
tion of the restriction, and his intention to enforce it. In 1830, 
he raised an action before the Court of Session, against those who 
would not dismiss their subtenants. By that time, there were 
two families at an average on each possession ; and fn many cases, 
the practice had continued, for upwards of forty years. Several 
tenants, trusting to the plea of prescription, resolved to litigate 
the point ; but before they entered the Court, a compromise was 
proposed, and ultimately agreed to, on the intervention of the 



KILLEAKV. C7 

minister, viz. that subtenant*^ should be allowed, provided they 
be natives of the parish, or strangers who had previously acquired 
a legal domicile by three years' industrial residence. This limi- 
tation, by excluding vagrants, secured every good puqoose of the 
original stipulation in the lease, while it allowed the tenants to 
enjoy the full benefit of their existing buildings. The village is 
scattered and irregular ; yet, as the generality of the inhabitants 
possess fixed property, they are free from the vices and vicissitudes 
of a manufacturing population. The number of inhabitants, at 
different periods, is shewn in the following table : — 

Village. Country. ToUl. 
1755. — _ 959 
1769, 74 854 948 
]794, 223 750 97.^ 

1831, 388 818 1206 

The register of baptisms and deaths is not correct ; that of 
marriages only can be depended upon. During the last seven years 
there have been 56 marriciges, and, consequently, 8 at an average 
every year. In this list are included those marriages, where both 
parties, or at least the males, resided in the parish. During this 
period, 20 female parishioners were married to males residing in 
other parishes : but of these, none are included in the present list. 
It were desirable that this rule should be observed, as otherwise, 
the same marriage may be twice reported, where the parties reside 
in different parishes. 

There may be one illegitimate birth in the parish, annually, at 
an average. 

It is not probable that any great diflerence will take place in 
the number or condition of the inhabitants, either in the village 
or country. The following particulars are taken from the Go- 
vernment census of 1831 : — 

Inhabited houses, - 182 

Families, - • 215 

Males, - - 623 

Females, - - 583 

Population, 1206 

Families employed in agriculture, _ - - 59 

trade, crafts, &c. - - - 60 

All other families, ... - . 87 

215 

The character of the parishioners is decent and pious, occa- . 
sioued mainly by the constant intercourse subsisting between 
householders and their domestics. Farmers, as well as villagers, 
sit ID the same apartment with the inmates of their houses^ aud eai 



68 STIRLINGSHIRK. 

with them at the same table. Kindly feelings are thus generated 
between masters and servants ; while the latter are prompted to 
diligence, and prevented from irregularity, by the presence of the 
former. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — Of the 17,000 acres given as the probable extent 
of the parish, not more than 7000 are at present under the plough ; 
but additions are annually made to the arable district, and some 
thousand acres might still be brought into cultivation. In the 
present depressed state of the markets, it is advisable to expend 
capital in improving the ground already arable. The most fa- 
shionable and most profitable improvement, is what is called fur- 
row, or frequent draining. While every proprietor has commenced 
operations on the clay retentive soil, which abounds in the parish, 
Mr Blackburn has taken the lead. His drains are only sixteen 
feet asunder, and filled with broken stones. The effects of his 
system are now visible on a farm of 200 acres, which, from being 
drenched with moisture in winter, and from being baked with the 
heat of summer, was of little value either in crop or pasture ; but 
now, in consequence of draining and deep ploughing, it produces 
luxuriant crops of turnips and grain. In the latter years of his 
life, and since his death, in 1840, his son, Mr Peter Blackburn, 
has extended draining to every part of his estate. He erected, in 
1837, a kiln for burning drain tiles, which yields about 500,000 
annually. 

Plantations and Pasture. — There is little natural wood in the 
parish. The extent under plantation, is about 1140 acres. The 
object of proprietors is to convert these plantations into copse, fil- 
ling them entirely with oak, and cutting them, every twenty years : 
yet, as oak bark has fallen to about L.8 per ton — less than half 
of the war prices, and as there is a growing demand for fir, especial- 
ly larch, it is probable that the latter will be more extensively plant- 
ed. The annual value of wood sold, is about L. 400. It may 
increase considerably beyond that sum, as a great part of the oak 
copse is not arrived at perfection. 

The ground that is waste, or in permanent pasture, extends to 
8860 acres, and admits of some improvement by draining marshes, 
and by sheltering exposed ground by artificial plantations — even 
though not partially brought into cultivation. 

Rent and Produce. — Farms vary in extent from L. 560 a-year 
down to L. 35, besides some small possessions occupied by retired 



KlLLEAllN. 6d 

iarmers and by tradesmen. Among all of them, there is diffused 
a spirit of improvement. Within the last thirty years, the produce 
has been doubled : still much remains to be done. The soil is 
fiir from that state of fertility, of which it may be made capable, as 
the best patches near the village are let at L. 1, 12s. per acre, 
while the average of the whole arable land is about 15s. The 
rent of the whole parish may be stated as follows : 

Arable, 7000 acres at 15s., . L.5250 

Hill pasture, 8860 do. 1250 

Plaotation, 1140 do. 400 



17,000 L.6,900 

The following statement of the gross produce is perhaps near 
the truth : 

1. Crops. 

Imperial acres. Produce per acre. Total produce. Total value. 

*^ oats, 1500 30 bushels at Ss. 6d., 45.000 bushels, L.5625 

bariej, .960 96 do. Ss. 6d., 12,960 do. 2268 

vbeat, .60 40 do. 5s. 6d., 2400 do. 615 

potatoes, . 200 at L. 6 per acre, 1200 

bay, 600 at L. 2 do. 1200 
tumipSt beaos, 

tares, &c. 200 at L.5 per acre, 1000 



2. Stock. 

ilk eoirs, 500 at L. 5, . L.2500 

^at cattle, 200 at L. 4, 10s. 900 

beep, (Highland) dOOO at 10s. 1500 

Jorses, . 40 reared annually nt L.25, 1000 

-^Sbeep (English), swine and poultry, annual value of 200 



L.11,908 



6100 



Total annual value of crops and stock, . L. 18,008 

In explanation of this statement, it may be mentioned that the 
dairy produce of each cow, could not be rated at L. 5, without in- 
cluding the value of calves reared (for none arc fattened) ; that 
a half only of the horses annually reared is sold, the other half 
being required to keep up the stocks ; and that a part of hay, 
and the whole turnips, beans, and tares, are employed in feeding 
cattle and horses, and ought not, therefore, to be placed to the 
credit of the farm, were it not compensated by the value of old 
sheep and old cows annually sold, for which no charge is made. 
The sheep are sold as great ewes in spring, or fattened in the end 
of the season. The old cows are sold with most advantage to 
Glasgow dairy men, when they are near calving, and there is a 
regular demand for such, as they give milk only one year, and as 



70 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

they are nearly ready for the butcher, as soon as the milk season 

is ended. 

Manufactures. — There was a cotton^mill in the parish, which was 
burnt down in 1806, and has not been rebuilt; and a printfield^ 
which was abandoned about the same time, and is now become 
ruinous. There is now only one manufacturing establishment-— 
the woollen factory of Mr John Jamieson, where 400 cwts. of wool 
are used annually, and where it passes through all the various 
processes, till it is converted into cloth. 

V, — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The church and manse are both substan- 
tial and commodious. The former is well attended ; the number 
of communicants is about 480 ; the male heads of families in com- 
munion, by the roll of last sacrament, are 153. There is no Dis- 
senting place of worship in the parish ; only 26 families are Dissen- 
ters ; yet all of these, with one exception, occasionally attend the 
parish church. The last augmentation of stipend was in 1814, 
when the teinds were exhausted. The stipend consists of 184 
bolls of meal, 4 bolls of barley, and L. 3 in money. The glebe 
consists of 8 acres of land, worth L. 12 annually. The value of the 
living, at an average of four years, is L.150. 

Education, — There is one parochial school in the village, with 
a salary to the master of L.31 annually, and an allowance of L. 8 
in lieu of a house and garden. There are three private schools 
in different parts of the parish, maintained exclusively by school- 
fees. The number of scholars is about 170 : they are taught only 
the elementary branches. There is also a Sabbath school in the 
village, which is attended by nearly 100 children. 

Poor, — The regular poor are 12 at an average, and receive about 
L.4 each in the year: a few, perhaps six or thereby, receive occasion- 
al aid at Christmas, and at Lammas, when the sacrament is dispen- 
sed. The whole expense amounts to L.54. The income consists of 
collections in the church, amounting to L. 50, and the interest of 
capital, L.4. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The parish, except in regard to education, may be said to be 

in a healthy state. A general spirit of improvement is promoted 
by the example and encouragement of the numerous resident heri- 
tors* One drawback is the distance from fuel, from manures, and 
from markets ; and good roads are the only means of obviating 
that disadvantage. In 1768^ the last minister introduced the no- 



STRATHRLANB. 71 

relty of bringing lime, on a single horse cart ; prior to that time, 
lime was never thought of as manure, and coals were carried on 
horses' backs. Turnpike roads were introduced 'from 1790 to 
1800; but the lines were very injudiciously chosen. The dis- 
tance from the village to Glasgow, is seventeen miles; but it is be- 
lieved a more level line can be found, two miles shorter. The ex- 
tent of turnpike roads is about twelve miles ; the surface is much 
smoother and 6rmer from the introduction of Macadamizing ; and 
in consequence, the usual load of a horse is raised to a ton ;— 
whereas till about ten years ago, it varied from 12 to 15 cwts., ex- 
clusive of the weight of the cart. 

February 1841. 



PARISH OF 8TRATHBLANE. 

PR£SBYT£RY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. H. BUCHANAN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — From time immemorial, the name of this parish has 
been the same. It is derived from the Blane, a small stream which 
rises in the north-east extremity of the parish, and, after running 
southwards for more than three miles, turns to the west, and flows 
onwards, for more than four miles, towards the north-west. It is 
generally agreed, that Blane signifies " the warm river.*' The 
strath of the warm river is peculiarly descriptive of the valley, 
which is sheltered, in almost every direction, from the violence of 
the winds. 

Extent. — The average length of the parish is rather more than 
five miles. The breadth is about four. The surface comprises 
about 20 square miles. Its figure approaches the form of an ob- 
long square. 

Boundaries. — The parish lies in the south-west corner of Stir- 
lingshire ; and is bounded on the east, by the parish of Canipsie ; 
on the south, by Baldernock and East Kilpatrick ; and on the 
west and north, by Killearn. 

The Strathblane hills, forming a branch of what were formeriy 

• Drawn up by the late incumbent, Uic Rev. William Hamilton, D. D. 



72 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

denominated the Lennox hills, stretch along the whole of the nor- 
thern boundary of the parish. The Earl's Seat, the highest point, 
is 1400 feet abbve the level of the sea. The approach to the strath 
from the south is uncommonly romantic and enchanting. After 
proceeding for three miles along a road over rising-ground, where 
rocks and heath confine the labours of the husbandman, and seem 
to form the boundary of cultivation, the valley unexpectedly 
bursts upon the view of the traveller, and continues to unfold its 
beauties as he advances. The grassy hills with their varied glens, 
streams, and acclivities, rise before him to the elevation of 1300 
or 1400 feet On the west, the conical hill of Dungoiach, 400 
feet high, clothed with wood to the summit, contrasts nobly with 
the bare and desolate hill of Dunglass, 400 feet in height, which 
terminates the valley on the east. The sequestered seats of the 
gentry embosomed with wood ; the comfortable homesteads of the 
farmers, with the neat cottages of the artisans ; the lofty sheep- 
walks ; the undulating surface of the valley, under its varied crops 
or agricultural processes; the roots of the mountains, in some 
places, sloping on to the banks of the Blane, and, in others, re- 
tiring to a distance ; with a profusion of wood of every age and 
size, — give an idea of the magnificence of nature, adorned by the 
taste and industry of man, which is seldom seen and never sur- 
passed, even in this country. 

On the south side of the strath, and from 300 to 400 feet above 
the level of the sea, there is a stretch of table-land two miles wide, 
vyhich runs across the whole breadth of the parish. This land 
was originally wild and moorish ; but now, almost every part of it 
capable of improvement has been brought under cultivation. 

The vale of the Blane, running from the south-east to the 
north-west, passes into the vale of Campsie on the east, and the 
vale of the Enrick on the west. The highest part of this valley 
is understood to be about 340 feet above the level of the sea, and 
the lowest part, 100. 

The temperature and pressure of the atmosphere, together with 
the quantity of rain, may be estimated from the following abstract 
of the meteorological register at Carbeth, from daily observations 
with the barometer, thermometer, and rain- gage, at 10 a. m. 
Latitude, 55°, 59', 46"; longitude, 4**, 21', 20" west. This ab- 
stract has been kindly furnished by William Smith, Esq. of Car- 
beth-Guthrie. 



8TRATHBLA?^E. 



Abstract of Meteorological Register at Carbeth, from daily ob- 
servations with the barometer, thermometer, and rain-gage, ai 
10 A. M. ; latitude, 55% 59', 46" ; longitude, 4% 21', 20" west. 
Height above the level of the sea nearly 470 feet. 

Average Barometer. Average Thermometer. Raia. 



18^ 


29.ao 


49.69 


36 844 


lo26y • 


29.34 


50.10 


32.213 


1827. 


29.26 


4a75 


45.958 


1828, 


29.24 


50.28 


45.304 


1829, 


29.80 


47.26 


37.098 


isao. 


29.22 


47.71 


45.885 




183K 


• 


January, • 


29.29 


35.10 


2.563 


February, 


29.11 


39.46 


3.84 


March, 


29.17 


4a87 


5.6 


April, 


29.23 


50.33 


2403 


May, 


29.42 


54.64 


1.786 


June, 


29.34 


61.66 


3.529 


July, 


29.39 


63.25 


4.189 


August, 


2938 


63.67 


3 9 


September, 


29.33 


56.86 


a82 


October, 


29. 6 


53.19 


9.802 


NoTcmber, 


29.17 


40.70 


4.579 


December, 


29. 


41. 


4.08 



Average, 29.25 50.33 ^49.591 

From its lower situation, less rain falls in the Strath, and the 
barometer and thermometer stand much higher there than at Car- 
beth. Fevers are rare, and when they appear, seem to be gene- 
rally imported from other places. Bilious affections, inflammation 
of the lungs, and consumptions are frequent. But these probably 
arise from the exposure to which many of the people are subjected 
in the course of their occupations, and from their inattention to the 
means requisite for preserving their health, and not from any 
noxious quality in the climate. The climate in the valley is un- 
commonly salubrious. 

Hydrography. — The whole parish abounds with perennial springs. 
The only known mineral spring is in the farm yard of Ballewan. 
The water resembles the Spa. 

The parish is adorned with six lakes. Loch Ardinning, con- 
taining .60 imperial acres, is without any artiflcial ornament ; 
Craigmaddie, containing 10 acres; Dumbroch, 10 acres; Car- 
beth, 8 acres ; Craigallion^ 40 acres, — lie in romantic situations^ 
and are beautiiied partly with natural wood and partly with planta- 
tions. Mugdoch loch, containing 25 acres, is ornamented with 
trees, and derives grandeur from the ancient castle of Mugdoch 
on its south-west point. 

The spout of Ballagan, where the^Blane breaks away from 



74 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

the hills, is a cascade 70 feet in height, and forms a majestic ob- 
ject when the river is swelled with rain. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — Dr Scouler, the accomplished Pro- 
fessor of Natural History in the Andersonian University, Glasgow, 
speaking of the general geological features of this parish, says, 
that ** Strathblane, along with part of Campsie, forms a strath or 
valley, consisting of a level plain, bounded by hills on each side. 
On contemplating the physical appearance of the district, it ap- 
pears not improbable, that, at a former period, it was a fresh water 
lake.; and that, subsequently, the barriers in the direction of Loch- 
lomond have been broken down, and that its drainage has been 
accomplished by that event The nature of the soil also contributes 
to establish this opinion ; for it appears to consist of sand, gravel, 
and other comminuted fragments of the neighbouring rocks. As 
calcareous rocks are found in some parts of the parish, it is natu- 
ral to expect that the waters should be considerably impregnated 
with lime ; and in one situation, near the manse, these waters are 
cementing the gravel into a firm conglomerate. 

^^ The fundamental rock of the parish seems to be sandstone ; 
the old red sandstone of Werner. It is, however, observed in 
many places by the superjacent masses of unstratified trap. The 
sandstone is visible chiefly in the lower parts of the district, where 
several sandstone quarries have been opened. The hills in most 
places are covered with trap. The trap-rock appears, at a former 
period, to have covered the sandstone throughout the whole pa- 
rish, and still does so in many places. In travelling from the 
manse to Milngavie, we detected many disconnected masses of 
trap, which must formerly have been continuous ; nor need we 
be surprised at this, when we remember the rapidity with which 
trap decays in many places, and as we may see the process of dis* 
integration going on under our eyes. It would be interesting to 
trace the sandstone in a westerly direction towards Benlomond, 
and ascertain upon what rock it reposes. It rests, in all proba- 
bility, upon clay-slate, and forms the margin of the great coal-field 
of the west of Scotland. The Strathblane hills rest upon this 
sandstone ; but are capped with masses of trap. At the beautiful 
little cascade of Ballagan, we obtained a fine natural section of 
these hills; a section which is probably 1000 feet deep, and ac* 
cordingly clear and defined, as if it were a natural model, a co- 
loured specimen of stratification. This deep section consists of 
about 230 beds, varying in thickness, from one to two inches to 



STllATHBLANE. 75 

10 feet; and consisting of many alternations of sandstone^ lime- 
stone, and argillaceous limestone or marl. These are all in a 
state of rapid disintegration, and portions of them are detached 
and fall down almost every day. 

^' Jasper is found abundantly in the hills, both in horizontal 
and vertical veins. Stilbite, chalcedony, and zeolite, are occasion- 
ally found ; but are not so plentiful as in the Kilpatrick hills. 
Two varieties of gypsum are found ; the fibrous and the compact. 
The latter variety is of rarer occurrence ; and is found among the 
strata exposed at the section of the hill at Ballagan. It usually 
occurs in amorphous masses of a yellowish colour, but exhibits a 
white fracture.'' 

The strata are nearly horizontal. The vegetable soil in the 
lower part of the valley is argillaceous ; in the upper part, arena- 
ceous; and on the hills and high-grounds, it is composed princi- 
pally of an argillaceous brown matter, mixed with the small debris 
of the trap on which it rests. 

Zoology. — The parish abounds with game ; such as hares and 
rabbits ; partridges, black and red grouse ; wild ducks, woodcocks, 
and pheasants. A few of the common roes are also found. Ot« 
ters, weasels, stoats, polecats, wild cats, marten cats, and foxes are 
numerous. Buzzards, ring-tailed kites, goshawks, sparrow-hawks, 
merlins, ravens, hooded-crows, jays, magpies, and owls of different 
kinds, together with the smaller kinds common all over the low- 
lands, are frequently met with. Pike and perch abound in the 
lochs. Char is found in Dumbroch loch. 

The gooseberry caterpillar is very destructive in those gardens 
where the bushes are not dug round and plentifully manured in 
autumn. 

Botany. — The banks of the lochs and the glens, from having 
escaped the operations of the plough, furnish fields exceedingly 
rich in vegetable productions. Among the rarer plants may be 
classed : — 

AgriinoDU Eupatoria Kpiincdium ulpinuni Nyinpha-a lufea 

Antirrbinum inajus Krysimum Alli.iria Pulygoiium Isibtorta 

Arum maculatuni Fontinalis sqiiaiuos;! Ilubiis ( Iminsniorus 

Campanula latifulia Geranium lucidum Kumcx sa;iguiiuus 

Cbulidonium niajus Inula Ilelenium Sedum diisyphyllum 

Chenopodium Bonus Henricus Lobelia Dortraanna Sileiie inflatus 

Cicuta Tirosa Nymphsa alba Trollius Europeus 

The great varieties in the soil contribute to the vigorous growth 
of several kinds of trees. The Scotch fir and larch thrive in very 



76 STIHLINGSHIRE. 

different soils and situations. The Italian black poplar, the Hun- 
tingdon willow, and the oak attain to a great size. A beautifully 
shaped oak at Blairquhoss, four feet from the ground, is eleven 
feet in circumference. Another, near the same spot, forms an 
uncommonly noble specimen of the gnarled and knotty oak. 
Though it may be supposed to have seen seven centuries, it is still 
h ealthy and thriving. Four feet from the ground, it is fifteen feet 
ei ght inches round. The branches diverge at the height of nine 
feet, and cover a circle of 281 feet In the garden of Ballagan 
stands a yew in full vigour ; pos^sessed of the finest figure ; and 
supposed to be from 500 to 600 years old. Its circumference is 
ten feet. The Huntingdon willow grows most rapidly. One of 
these trees in twenty-three years has risen to the height of 45 feet. 
Two of these species, 70 feet high, at six feet from the ground, 
measure, — one, twelve feet, and the other, thirteen feet and a-balf. 

II. — Civil History. 
\ David Graham, great grandson of the first of the Grahams on 

record, obtained from William the Lion certain lands near Mon- 
trose. His son, David, acquired, under the succeeding reign, by 
exchange of his lands in Galloway, from Patrick Earl of Dunbar, 
the lands of Dundaff and Strathcarron, and from Maldwin Earl 
of Lennox, the lands of Strathblane and Mugdock. The Castle 
of Kincardine, in Stratheam, having been demolished by the 
Marquis of Argyle, March 16, 1646, Mugdock Castle became 
the principal seat of the Noble family of Montrose. After the 
Restoration, when the Earl of Middleton and his associates were 
Ittployed in subverting the civil and religious rights of their 
country, Mugdock Castle was one of the scenes of their baccha- 
nalian orgies. During the persecution which followed, the Pres- 
byterians were encouraged and patronised by Edmonstone of 
Duntreath, and the Episcopalian incumbent generously threw the 
shield of his protection over his harassed and helpless parishioners. 

Land-owners. — The principal land-owners are, the Duke of 
Montrose; Sir Archibald Edmonstone; Mr Graham of Ballagan ; 
Mr Stirling of Craigbarnet ; Mr Graham of Ballewan ; Mr Smith 
of Craigend ; Mr Graham of Craigallion ; Mr Buchanan of Car- 
beth ; Mr Robison of Leddriegreen ; Mr Smith of Carbeth. 

The history of the Montrose family, in its most eventful eras, 
is interwoven with the history of the country. The following ac- 
count of the Edmonstones of Duntreath has been obligingly fur- 





STRATHBLANB. 77 

^*^lied by its present distinguished representative, Sir Archibald 
^*^3inonstone, Bart. 

JSdnunutone Family* — The name of Edmonstone first appeared 
the county of Mid-Lothian in the beginning of the thirteenth 
Dtury. Tradition would, indeed, derive it 150 years earlier, 
an Edmundus of the family of the Counts Egmont of Flan- 
fs, who is said to have come to Scotland in the reign of Mai- 
Im Canmore, and to have had a grant from David I. of the said 
:iids, to which he gave his name ; but there is no authority for 
is whatever; and it seems more than probable that the powerful 
of Seton was the parent stock ; as the whole district round 
;bs in possession of that family, and the arms are identical : and, 
the earliest appearance of the name of Edmonstone is in a 
^^arter where Henry de Edmonstone is styled *^ Filius E," this 
J have been the very Edmund who thus founded the family, 
d gave his name to the lands. In the middle of the following 
otury, Sir John Edmonstone of Edmonstone appears a person 
considerable importance, and was appointed by David II. co- 
ner to the shire of Edinburgh in fee, accompanied by grants of 
^^ands in the county of Banff. His son, of the same name, was a 
^"jiersoD of still greater eminence, and was named a commissioner 
^or negociating with England, on three different occasions, during 
the captivity of James I. a. d. 1407, &c. He married the Lady 
Isabel, daughter of Robert IL, and widow of James Earl of Dou- 
glas and Mar, who was killed at the battle of Otterburiie. By 
this marriage he had two sons. Sir David, who succeeded him, 
and Sir William of Culloden, ancestor of the family of Duntreath. 
Sir David left two sons, of whom Sir James, the elder, died with- 
out issue male, and John, the younger, iu whom the elder line of 
the family, was continued, till the middle of the last century, when 
it became extinct bv the death of the last male heir. 'I'his branch 
of the family continued in possession of Edmonstone, in Mid- Lo- 
thian, till late in the seventeenth century, when it was sold to the 
family of Wauchope, who still retain it ; it resided, likewise, at 
Ednam, in Roxburghshire, a grant of Robert III. This last 
property has been purchased, within these few years, by the Earl 
of Dudley. 

To revert to the family of Duntreath. Sir William Edmon- 
stone of Culloden, second son of Sir John, as above, married the 
Lady Mary, daughter of King Robert III., who had been married 
three times previously ; first, to George Douglas, Earl of Angus ; 



78 STIRLINGSHIRK. 

secondly, to Sir James Kennedy M Dnnure, ancestor to the Earls 
of Cassilis ; thirdly, to Sir William Graham of Kincardine, an- 
cestor to the Duke of Montrose ; and, lastly, to Sir William Exl- 
monstone. By all four marriages she had issue ; and, from the 
last, the present family of Duntreath are lineally descended. 
This lady is interred in a vault beneath the church of Strathblane, 
and an inscription was put up to her memory in the family vault 
of Duntreath, by the late Sir Archibald Edmonstone. 

At what period the Castle of Duntreath was built, is unknown ; 
but the whole of the district originally belonged to the powerful 
family of the Lennoxes. At the attainder and decapitation of 
Duncan, the last Earl of this family, together with his son-in-law, 
Murdac, Duke of Albany, and two of his grandsons, on the return 
of James T. from his long captivity, the property, some portion of 
it at least, was allowed to remain in possession of the Duchess of 
Albany, as heiress to her father ; and she made a grant of the 
lands of Duntreath, erected into a barony, to Sir William Ed- 
monstone of CuUoden, and Mary, Countess of Angus, his wife, 
A. D. 1452, which graqt was conBrmed by a charter of James 11., 
and it has ever since remained the principal seat of the ikmily. 

For the next century, the house of Duntreath continued in the 
highest degree prosperous. Its wealth and possessions had con- 
siderably increased, and appanages were bestowed on many of its 
junior branches, nearly all of which are now extinct. A succession 
of honourable alliances, too, had greatly tended to keep up its 
^respectability. Sir William, (the fourth in descent from the first 
Sir William of Duntreath), who was killed at the unfortunate 
battle of Flodden, with King James IV., and the flower of the 
Scottish nobility and gentry, had been appointed steward of Men- 
teith, and constable of the Castle of Doune. His son, of the 
same name, was continued in the same offices by the Regent, 
John Duke of Albany, which he held for eighteen years ; but an 
heritable grant of them having been conferred by James V. on 
Sir James Stewart, (ancestor of the present Earl of Moray), Sir 
William and his brother Archibald were much irritated at beinsr 
thus deprived of what had now for so many years been in posses- 
sion of their family, and a fray ensued in the High Street of Dun - 
blane, in which Sir James was killed. This event occurred on 
Whitsunday, a. d. 1543. A pardon for this offence was after- 
wards granted to the two brothers under the Great Seal by the 
Regent, Duke of Chatelherault, and being connected with the 



STRATHBLANE. 73 

^5^1 family, in consequence of his inarringe with Lady Agnes 

^'^^wart, daughter to Matthew Earl of Lennox, (grandfather to 

*A^Hry Lord Darnley, the unfortunate husband of Queen Mary), 

oir Wiiliani was made one of the Privy Council during the Queen's 

^^tiority. 

His son. Sir James, was appointed Justice- Deputy under the 
^^1 of Argyle, Justice- General, and was named one of the asses- 
^vs on the trial of the Earl of Gowrie, for the celebrated conspi- 
^ against the liberty of King James VL, called the Raid of 
fiuthven, a* d. 158*2 ; but he appears himself implicated in a 
plot of the same nature soon after. He was accused, together 
m'th three others of the names of Douglas, Cunningham, and 
HamiltoD, of a design to convey the king to some place of con- 
finement, till those lords who had left the country in consequence 
of their concern in the above conspiracy should be advertised. It 
was believed to have been little more than an idle conversation ; 
however, the four were seized, and indicted for high treason. Sir 
James pleaded guilty, and threw himself on the King's mercy. 
Tbe others convicted of having held this treasonable design, were 
executed. Sir James seems to have acted an unworthy part in 
this business; and, being pardoned, he retired to Duntreath, which 
he considerably enlarged. A stone, with his arms and cypher, 
but without a date, marks this. The estate, however, was mort- 
gaged by his son and successor, William, to Sir William Living- 
ston of Kilsyth, and considerable estates purchased in the coun- 
ties of Down and Antrim, in the north of Ireland. Fortunately, 
however, his next successor, Archibald, resold part of the Irish 
purchases, and redeemed the estate of Duntreath, though the fa- 
mily residence continued to be, for above a century, chiedy at Red 
Hall, in a district called Broadisland, in the county of Antrim. 
This Archibald was a strict Presbyterian, and being returned 
member for the county of Stirling, in the Parliament which met 
at Edinburgh in 16:33, in presence of King Charles L, he strong- 
ly opposed every effort made by that monarch for the establibh- 
ment of Episcopacy in Scotland. He had two sons, William and 
Archibald. Of these the elder, known as the Dumb Laird of 
Duntreath, was disinherited, and put under the tutelage of his 
brother, on account of having been born deaf and dumb. He 
was, however, a person of great vivacity and cheerfulness, with a 
very retentive memory ; and, according to a portrait which exists 
of him, of a handsome and intelligent countenance. It is record- 



80 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

ed, moreover, that he had a strong sense of religion ; and a tra- 
dition is preserved that he was endowed with the faculty of second- 
sight. He lived to a very advanced life. A tower at Duntreath, 
which he is said to have occupied, still preserves his name. The 
inheritance, in consequence of the inBrmity of the elder, devolved 
upon the younger brother, Archibald. This gentleman followec 
the same line as his father, in opposing the tyrannical acts o 
the government, in their endeavour to establish Episcopal juris 
diction ; and was fined and imprisoned for holding a conventicli 
in the private chapel of his house of Duntreath. After his release 
he retired to Ireland, and died in consequence of his exertions ii 
defending the fort of Culmore, contiguous to Londonderry, at th< 
period of the famous siege of that city by King James II., a. e 
1689. He was succeeded by his son and namesake, who appear 
to have resided chiefly at Red Hall, so that Duntreath fell info 
decay. He represented, I believe, the county of Antrim, in th 
Irish Parliament. He married, first, the Honourable Anne Ers 
kine, daughter to David, Lord Cardross, ancestor to the preset) 
Earl of Buchan, by whom he had one daughter ; and, secondl} 
Anne, daughter to the Honourable John Campbell of Mammorc 
second son to the unfortunate Earl of Argyle who was beheade 
A. D. 1685. Her brother, John, succeeded to the dukedom c 
Argyle, on the death of his cousin, Archibald. By this marriag 
he had three sons and three daughters, and was succeeded by hi 
eldest son ; 

Sir Archibald, created a baronet 1774, who married, first, Su 
sanna, daughter lo Roger Harenc of Footscray Place, in Kent 
by whom he had five sons and three daughters ; and, secondly 
Hester, daughter to Sir John Heathcote of Normanton, in Rut 
landshire, by whom he had no issue. Sir Archibald sat, for abov< 
twenty years in Parliament, for the county of Dumbarton, and th' 
Ayr and Irvine district of burghs. He very judiciously sold th- 
estate in Ireland, and purchased that of Kilsyth, in 1783, whicl 
had been forfeited by the Livingstons, Viscounts of Kilsyth, ii 
1715, and thus established and concentrated the family in thei 
native country. He likewise began a liberal system of improve 
ment upon his estates, which was carried on to a greater exteti 
and completed by his successor. Sir Archibald died at the ad 
vanced age of eighty-nine, in 1807, and was succeeded by hi 
eldest surviving son ; 

Sir Charles, who married, first, Emma, daughter of Ricfaar 



STRATHBLANE. 81 

Wilbraham Booth of Lathorn House, in the county of Lancas- 
ter, Esq., and by her had a sod and daughter; and, secondly, the 
Honourable Louisa Hotham, daughter to Beaumont, second Lord 
Hotham, by whonni he had four sons and two daughters. Sir 
Charles represented the county of Stirling in Parliament, for se- 
. veral years previous to his death, which took place on the 1st of 
April 1821, in the 6fty>cighth year of his age. He was succeed- 
ed bv his eldest son ; 

Sir Archibald, the present Baronet, twelfth in lineal descent 
from Sir William of Culloden, the first of the branch of Dun- 
treath. Sir Archibald married, in October 1832, his cousin, Em- 
ma, daughter of Handle Wilbraham of Rode Hall, in the county 
of Chester, Esq. 

The Castle of Duntreath stands on the north side of the Blanc 
water, near the opening of the narrow and beautiful strath to which 
that stream gives its name. To the south rises the conical hill of 
DuDgoiach, covered with natural wood ; and across the valley op- 
posite, is another hill, clothed likewise with wood, called the Park 
hill. Tradition asserts that it was once intended to have built the 
castle here, instead of the valley below. The top certiiinly has 
been levelled, and a regular way formed up to it. The noble 
range of the Campsie Hills, which intersect the western end of 
the county of Stirling, is finely terminated above by the bold 
heads of Dumgoyn and Dumfoyn. 

The castle is approached from the west through a detached 
gate-house, and is rather of a rude construction, built round a 
quadrangle. The north and east sides arc completely in ruins, 
having b^en unroofed and left to decay about a century ago. In 
the former of these sides, is the chapel, of which, according to tra- 
dition, the gallery once gave way during the service, and several 
persons were injured. The southern front was never finished. In 
the south-eastern part of it, is the Dumb Laird's Tower. The castle 
is surrounded by a park or policy, of moderate extent, but very 
agreeably varied ; and the scenery of the whole unites cultivation 
and romantic beauty, in no common degree. 

Parochial RegUters. — In consequence of the recommendation of 
the General Assembly, 1816, correct registers have been kept, since 
that time, of marriagos and births. There is no register of deaths, 
and, prior to 1810, the registers of marriages and births were ex- 
ceedingly irregular. The (irst entry in the register of baptisms is 
dated April 1685. Registers had been kept long before that period ; 

STIRLING. F 



82 STIRLINGSHIUK. 

but perished through the negligence of those to whose care they 
had been entrusted. 

Antiquities. — The castles of Mugdock and Duntreathare the only 
baronial residences of the feudal ages that remain. The build- 
ings were large and capacious ; and have been long in ruins. A 
castle belonging to the Earl of Lennox stood at Ballagan, but 
every trace of it was removed fifty years ago, when the stones 
were employed to build the garden wall. 

An erect stone, on the north of the turnpike road to Campsie, 
marks the spot where, two centuries ago, Mr Stirling of Balla- 
gan was killed by a miller of the name of Abernethy. 

At a little distance from the south-east of the hill of Dungoy- 
ach, stand six stones. One rises six feet, and another five, above 
the surface of the soil. The rest are lower. They are placed ir- 
regularly, and seem intended to commemorate some important 
victory which our ancestors had achieved on the spot ; but of which 
no tradition has reached modern times. 

In 1800, a small enclosure, composed of stakes of oak and birch, 
was 'discovered under the surface of a moss at Craigend. The 
enclosure measured three feet nine inches in length, by twenty-two 
inches in breadth. The stakes were above five feet in length, driven 
closely together, and from the bruises on their sharpened ends, 
appeared to have been cut by a stone hatchet. There seemed to 
have been originally an entrance from the west ; and a few pieces 
of wood indicated that the enclosure had originally been roofed. 
The enclosure must have been formed, before the moss covered 
the soil. It may have been intended as a place of shelter; but 
its diminutive size gives it rather the appearance of ^a prison, 
though the frail nature of the materials shows that it was very un- 
fit for such a purpose. 

Modern Buildings. — The church is a beautiful building of mo- 
dern Gothic, reared in 1803. Carbetb, the property of Mr Smith, 
is an elegant building, finished 1810. Craigend, the residence of 
James Smith, Esq. completed 1812, isamagnificentedifice. There 
is one mill for grain of every description, furnished with a complete 
set of machinery of the most approved construction, and kept in 
good order. Calico-printing is carried on at Blanefield, according 
to the most recent improvements. At Dumbroch bleachfield, two 
spider wheels are employed, each thirty feet in diameter, and the 
company are masters of a process, which at once reduces the ex- 
pense of bleaching, and improves the fabric and appearance of the 



STRATHBLANE. 83 

cloth. Were the Irish Board of Linen in possession of the secret, 
it would add prodigiously to the value of the linen manufacture of 
Ireland. 

IIL — Population. 
' The average number of baptisms, 1729, 1730, and 1731, was 
SO. The average number for the years 1829, 1830, and 1831, 
^^ivas 24. If this be a fair criterion of the proportion of the popu< 
Nation at these two periods, the parish must have beep rather more 
populous a century ago, before the introduction of a large prints 
£eld and two bleachfields, than it is at present This excess in 
'^he ancient numbers must have arisen from the great subdivision 
^3f farms, and the multitude of cottaries with which the parish then 
^sdxiuDded. 

From the enlargement of farms and the decay of cottaries, the 
"^population decreased. 

In 1755 tba population amounted to 797 
1795, 620 

1811, . 795 

1821, . 748 

1831, . lOdO 

1841, 1045 * 

The recent increase is occasioned by the enlargement of the 
manufacturing establishments, which require a great number of 
hands. 

The yearly average of births for the seven years ending Whit- 
sunday 1831, was 7^ ; of deaths, do. 14; of marriages, do. 7^. 

Three families of independent fortune reside for the greater part 
of the year in the parish. 

There are seventeen proprietors of land of the yearly value of 
L.50 and upwards. Of these, eight are resident, and nine non- 
resident. 

Tbe number of bachelors and widowers above 50 years of age, 20 

unmarried women above 45, 13 

fiiroUics, . 186 

inhabited houses, • • 114 

iminhabited houses, . 4 

There is nothing peculiar in the strength, size, or complexion 
of the people. 
There are two insane persons, but none either blind, deaf, or 

dumb. 

IV. — Industry. 
JffricuUure, — 

There are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, of standard 

imperial measure, 8150 acres. 

Formerly cultivated, but now in pasture, ^^ 

Never cultivated, but perpetually in pasture, 8200 



84 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Under wood, natural or planted, • 2000 aerefl. 

Lakes, . . . • 190 

Occupied by streams, 100 

by roads, . 200 

i4oeo 

1000 acres might be profitably added to the cultivated land. 

Plantations.— 'The most common natural wood is birch, arrans 
or alders, hazel, and willow. A great variety of forest trees are 
planted. The most common are, the Scotch 6r, larch, oak, ash, 
elm, beech, Huntingdon willow, and Lombardy poplar. Great 
attention is paid to the woods. Most of the plantations are young, 
and give every promise of yielding their proprietors a rich return. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per imperial 
acre is L.l, Ss. The average rent of grazing is L.2, 10s. per 
cow, and 6s. per sheep. 

The utmost pains are employed to suit the husbandry to the 
soil ; and the farmers are perpetually on the alert to adopt new 
discoveries, and to improve their different agricultural processes. 

Two crops of oats are generally taken. The second is sown 
down with peropnial ryegrass. The third crop is ryegrass, fol- 
lowed by three years pasture. In some cases, the 6rst crop is oats ; 
the second is green crop of potatoes or turnips;^ the third is wheat or 
barley, sown down with grass seeds ; the fourth is hay, followed 
by three or four years pasture. 

Few portions of the soil require either embanking or irrigation. 
Draining is much needed : and both covered and open drains have 
been carried to a great extent. Within the last twenty years, 
about 300 acres of waste land have been reclaimed. The 
process most frequently employed, is to trench two spadings deep ; 
smooth the bottom of the trench ; and place the tough and heathy 
side of the upper spading in the bottom of the trench. As 
the trenches run in the direction of the declivity, the heathy sur- 
face, when removed, acts as a drain. The large stones that are 
turned out are used for dikes, and the smaller ones for covered 
drains. This trenching is executed for L.5 per acre. Before the 
crop is sown, each acre is limed at the rate of four or 6ve chalders. 
The chalder of lime, according to the distance from the kiln, costs 
from L. 1 to L.1, 5$. 

The duration of the leases is generally nineteen years. The 
farm-buildings and enclosures are generally in good repair. 
The tenants are suffering greatly from having contracted to pay 
money-rents. While the nominal rent remains the same, the great 



STRATHBLANE. 35 

reduction id the price of produce has rendered it nearly double. 
This may be remedied by 6xing the rent of the arable farms in 
so many bolls of oats at the fiars prices ; and the grass farms at 
so many sheep or cattle, at the average prices of the three Fal- 
kirk trysts. 

Quarry. — The only quarry in the parish is of sandstone, which 
generally employs two men. 
There is no fishing. 

Average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish of 
Strathblane : — 

Aena, Bolls. Toul. Price. 

^SOotOM^ 4| per acre, 2475 L.0 16 L.1980 

140burley« 5 do. 700 110 735 

BOwfatat, 7 do. 420 14 504 

8 beans, 7 do. 56 16 44 16 

40 turniiM, . 12 tons. 480 15 860 

laOpoUtoes, 24 Mia. 3336 8 1334 8 

aOOrjegnuB bay, lOOstonaa, 30,000 3 900 

110 natural bay, 75 do. 8250 1 15 144 7 6 

290 ndH^ cows yield L. 10 eacb, 2900 

100 yoiti^; and old cows sold, each L.6, . 600 

250 eowa grased till fattened, eaoh L.3, 750 

67 score of sheep yields 60 score of lambti, per score L.8, 480 

Eadi score of sheep yields 3} sUnies of wool, at Os. per stone, 70 7 

12 horses sold each at L. 18 216 

Tliinnings and periodical fdlings of wood, , 200 

Freestone quarry, ,_ , 12 

Total, 

The gross produce is balanced by 

47 men servants employed in farm work, each at L.15, 

Maintenanceof do. each at L.ld, .... 

47 female senrants, each L.8, ..... 

Maintenance of do. each L. 10, 

Nine shepherds, wages and maintenance, each L.22, 

Wages to 10 labourers at Us. per week, 

Keep of 88 horses for farm work, each L.25, 

Keep of 44 young and old horses, L.13, 

Dung and lime for 250 acres at L.5 each, 

Rent for 3150 acres arable, L.1, 3s., 

Rent for grazing 250 fat cattle, L.2, 10s., 

Rent lor 67 score of sheep, each L.5, 10s. 

L.1128'^ 

To this must be added the maintenance of 4:2 farmers with their 
families ; wages paid to extra hands in harvest and other hiring sea- 
sons ; and the wages paid to smiths, masons, wrights, saddlers, &c 

Manufactures. — An establishment for calico-printing employs 
20 journeymen block-printers, who gain each, at an average, 
L.], Is. per week, or L.54, 12s. per annum; 20 apprentices, who 
gain each, at an average, 10s. 6d. per week, or L. 27, 6s. per an- 
num; 30 male labourers, who gain each 10s. per week, or L.26 



L.llldO 18 


6 


L.705 





611 





376 





470 





198 





286 





2200 





572 





1250 





3622 10 





625 





366 10 






86 ST1KLING8HIUE. 

per aDnum ; 8 women, who gain 5s. per week, or L. 13 per annum ; 
25 boys, under fourteen years of age, who gain 2s. dd. per week, or 
L.5, 17s. per annum ; 20 girls, who gain each 2s. per week, or 
L.5, 4s. per annum. They work six days in the week, and ten 
hours a-day, and receive annually in wages L. 2772, 5s« 

One bleaching establishment employs 30 men, 20 women, 8 
boys, under fourteen years, and 6 girls. They work six days in 
the week, and eleven hours a day. The wages of the men vary 
according to the nature of their work, from 1 Is. to 21s. per week. 
The wages of the women are Gs. per week, and of the boys and 
girls Ss. 9d. Taking the average of the men at 14s. per week, the 
total annual wages will be L.1540, 10s. 

Another bleachBeld employs 3 men, above twenty years of age, 
at 12s. per week, making per annum, L. 93, 12s. ; 2 men, under 
twenty years, at 10s. per week, making L.52 per annum ; and 12 
women, all above twenty years, at 6s. per week, making Lb 187, 48. 
In all, L. 332, 16s. 

The wages are considered as affording a fair remuneration to 
those who are employed in these works. The labour is as healthy 
as that of farming. Many of the workers are distinguished for 
their piety and intelligence. By the constant employment which 
they give to many who would otherwise be idle, and by the de- 
mand which the workers make for farm-produce, these establish- 
ments are of great advantage to the parish. 

Farmers^ Society, — The Farmers' Society is the only Associa- 
tion in the parish for the purpose of improving its members in the 
theory and practice of their profession ; and it has done much to - 
promote a good style of ploughing. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market-Town. — Glasgow, at the distance of twelve miles from 
the centre of the parish, is the nearest market-town ; with which 
communication is maintained every day by post ; by two Baliron 
carriers, who pass through the parish to and from Glasgow, four 
times in the week ; and by a stage-coach which runs betwixt Glas- 
gow and Balfron every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday. 

Means of Communication. — Ten miles of turn pike- road intersect 
the parish. The narrowness of the road in the Strath, and the 
hilliness of the high ground amid which it passes, render it ex* 
ceedingly exhausting and injurious to horses in draught. There 
are ten stone bridges in the parish ; but an eleventh is wanted to 
render the accommodation complete. The Strath and table-land 



STttAlHBLANE. 87 

are thoroughly enclosed ; and the farms kept generally in good 
repair. 

Ecdetiastical State, — The church is the only place of worship 
within the parish. It is a handsome edifice, of modern Gothic, 
built 1303. It is seated for 450, and the sittings are all free< 
The people have furnished it with a steam-boiler and pipe for heat- 
ing it in winter. A few families are three miles from the church ; 
but the greater proportion of the inhabitants live near it. 

The manse was built in 1 828 ; and is a large, substantial, and 
commodious house. 'J'he glebe consists of 10 imperial acres ; and 
is worth L.16 per annum. 

The stipend consists of 9 bolls, 2 6rlots, 2 pecks, 2 lippies bar- 
ley, at L.l, Is. per boll, making L.10, 2s. 9§d.; 103 bolls, 2 lip- 
pies meal, at 16$. per boll, L. 82, 8s. 3d.; money, L.139, 6s. 9d. 
lnaUL.2dl» 17s. 9gd. 

Divine service is well attended. The average number of com* 
municants is 250. 

Bible Society, — A Bible Society for the circulation of the cano* 
nical Scriptures only, instituted December 1813, has already re- 
mitted to the London, Edinburgh, and Glasgow Bible Societies 
L.192, being L.9, 12s. per annum. 

A Missionary Society was instituted June 1823. 

The average amount of church collections yearly for religious 
and charitable purposes, exclusive of the ordinary collections for 
the parochial poor, may probably amount to L. 8. 

Temperance Society, — A Temperance Society, instituted July 
1830, contains 84 adult, and 56 juvenile members. It has been 
of the greatest service in checking dissipation, and improving the 
morals and comfort of the people. 

Education. — There are one parochial school and two private 
schools. One of the private schools is aided by subscription. 
The parochial school- room is 18 feet in length, by 16 feet in 
breadth, and 7 feet from floor to joists. Besides being badly 
lighted, and in every respect a most ill-aired, wretched hovel, it is 
by far too small. In order to enlarge it, some of the heritors 
strongly recommend an excavation, which will remove the floor 
farther from the ceiling. But they have not yet shown how this 
process will enlarge the area. 

The parochial school is near the centre of the parish, and few 
of the children are more than two miles distant. The greater 
part of the people are fully alive to the benefits of education ; 



88 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

but a few of the more stupid and dissipated are ignorant of its 
value, and allow their children to grow up without education. 
Many even above the age of fifteen read very imperfectly ; twelve 
adults cannot read at all. 

Literature. — A parish library was formed in 1817, which now 
contains, nearly 700 volumes of standard works in theology and 
general literature. 

A Young Man's Society combines the double object of a Me- 
chanics' Institution and a religious meeting. On an evening of 
one week, a literary paper is read, and its subject discussed. On 
an evening in the succeeding week, a paper is read, and a subject 
discussed for the religious improvement of the members. This 
Society consists of 6fteen members. 

Saving^ Bank. — A Savings' Bank was opened, January 6, 1832. 
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor re- 
ceiving parochial aid is 11. The average sum allotted to eaclk 
annually is L. 4, 10s. The collections at the church door annu- 
ally, L. 30, 15s. Annual' donation from Sir A. Edmonstone, 
L. 5. The interest on L. 515 saved by the managers of the poor's 
money, L. 12, 17s. 6d. The dissipated and improvident have no re- 
luctance to ask parochial relief. The industrious, sober, and pious, 
regard parochial aliment as a disgrace. When reduced to pover- 
ty they are supported by the generous. 

Fair. — A fair is held on the 10th of November, for the sale of 
cattle, but especially of those that are fed. 

Alehouses, — There are six alehouses in the parish. They keep 
their customers in the most abject poverty, and have the most per- 
nicious effect on the morals and the domestic happiness of those 
who frequent them. 

Fuel. — Peats are occasionally used in a few houses : but coal 
is the fuel principally employed. It is procured from Campsie, 
Kirkintilloch, Baldernock, and New Kilpatrick ; when laid down^ 
costs, according to the distance, from 9s. to 15s. per ton. 

• ^ 

Revised March 1841. 



PARISH OF BUCHANAN. 

PRBSBYTERT OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

REV. WILLIAM FREELAND, MINISTER.* 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name and Extent. — This parish was originally called Inchcaile- 

och, from an island of that name in Lochlomond, where there had 
been a nunnery prior to the Reformation, and where the parish 
church remained for a century afterwards. It consists of several islands 
in the lake, and of a mountainous track on its eastern bank. In 
1621, there was annexed a detached part of the parish of Luss, 
containing the lands of the old family of Buchanan. Near the 
mansion, was the chapel of Buchanan, which, being more commo- 
dious for the population, was used as the ordinar}' place of public 
worship, and gradually gave its name to the whole parish. Bu- 
chanan is bounded by Lochlomond, on the west ; by the parish of 
Arrochar, on the north : by Loch Katrine, and by the parishes of 
Aberfoyle and Drymen, on the east ; and by the river Endrick, on 
the south. There has been no measurement of the parish. It is 
supposed to be 24 miles in length, and 5 in breadth ; its area, in- 
cluding the islands and mainland, may be stated at 120 square 
miles, or 76,800 acres. 

The 'annexed part is situated in the Lowlands of Scotland, con- 
sisting of fertile alluvial land on the bank of the Endrick, and of a 
track of ground gently rising towards the base of the mountains. 
Within this, is Buchanan House, the residence of the Duke of 
Montrose, with its extensive pleasure grounds and plantations. 
The rest of the ))arish is in the Highlands, and forms the western 
termination of the Grampian bills. It is a mountainous ridge, ex- 
tending along the bank of the lake ; deeply indented, on the east, 
by Glendow, where the river Forth has its rise ; and intersected 
near the north end by Glenarklet, a vale extending from Loch 
Katrine to Lochlomond. This Highland district is rugged and 
barren, and at an early period, if we may judge from the names of 

• Drawn up by John Graham, D. D, Killearn. 



90 STIRLINGSUIRK. 

places, seems to have been chiefly used as hunting-ground. At 
the head of Lochlomond stands Benlui, (Fawn's hilU) where the 
deer had their coverts, and reared their young. When roused 
from their lair, they generally directed their course along the 
east bank of the lake. At Chonan-nish, where the ground became 
somewhat level and practicable, there the chase began ; hence its 
name signifying, now for the dog$ ! If the pursuit were unsuc- 
cessful along the skirts of Benlomond, . it often had a melancholy 
conclusion at Conichill, which forms the southern acclivity of the 
Grampian range, and whose abrupt precipices were fatal to the 
eager dogs; Conichill, or more properly Chonnakill, signifying 
the dog^s grave. The most striking object is Benlomond. On the 
north, it is precipitous ; on the south, setting out from the Inn of 
Rowardennan, on the bank of the lake, you ascend easily in three 
hours, walking over a space of three miles. When you reach its 
conical summit, overtopping every surrounding eminence, and ele- 
vated 8000 feet above the level of the sea, you have on the north 
an endless succession of mountains, like the billows of the stormy 
ocean ; and on the south, you have presented before you, as on a 
map, the riches and beauty of the central district of Scotland, froooi 
the Western Isles to the Frith of Forth. 

Islands. — Of the islands belonging to this parish, several are of 
considerable extent and value. Inchcaileoch,* which once contain- 
ed a nunnery and the parish church, is now, without house and in- 
habitant, covered with copse-wood. Inchfad and Inchcruin are ara- 
ble and inhabited. Inchmurrin, the largest of the whole — being two 
miles long and one broad — is the deer park of the Duke of Mon- 
trose, containing about 200 fallow deer. The keeper cultivates 
some ground around his house. At the west end of the island, 
on a projecting eminence, are the ruins of a castle of the ancient 
Earls of Lennox ; near which is a modern lodge, erected by the 
present family. There also are some islets, uninhabited, belong- 
ing to Mrs M. Buchanan of Ross. 

Lakes and Rivers. — There are three small lakes within the pa- 
rish : but they attract no notice in the vicinity of Lochlomond, 
whose beauties have been often described. It is 24 miles long : 

The names of places are Celtic. IncJicaiieoch signifying old woman's island ; 
luc^ad, long island; Inchcruin^ round island; /«c/»mMrrln, the island of St Murrin, 
who was the tutelary saint of Paisley. The etymology of Buchanan is uncertain. 
Lochlomond is evidently the same name with Lac-us Leman-us of Helvetia, in the 
time of Cansar. Lomond, signifies bare hill or beacon. Benlomond was reckoned 
higher than 3000 feet, till the recent Trigonometrical Survey of Scotland. 



nUCllANAN. 91 

the greatest breadth is about 7 miles. It is 22 feet above the level 
of the sea. Its outlet is the river Leven, which meets the tide- 
way, after a course of three miles, about a mile above its junction 
with the Clyde. As the Leven flows in a narrow channel, it is 
insufiBcient for the rapid discharge of any sudden influx of water 
into the lake. The level of the lake, therefore, varies with the 
season; it is lowest in the drought of summer; it rises when the 
rains of autumn commence ; and reaches its maximum in the month 
of February. The difierence between the summer and the winter 
level is about seven feet. In winter, the lake overflows much va- 
luable land at the mouth of the Endrick ; and if the rainy season 
sets in early and copiously, much damage is done to the natural 
hay and corn crops. In 1782, the harvest was late and rainy, and 
followed by an early and severe winter. The corn, before it was ripe, 
was covered with water, and then with ice. The upper part of the 
lake, from its great depth, never freezes ; the lower part is occa- 
sionally frozen. In 1814, the ice was so strong between the main* 
land and Inchmurrin, as to admit travelling on foot. In 1740, 
the lake was frozen from Buchanan to Luss, so as to carry both 
men and cattle. It is understood that the surface of the lake is 
gradually and permanently rising. The cause is evidently the in- 
creasing bar at its outlet. The chief tributary rivers are the Eud- 
rick on the east, and the Fruin on the west, which flow into the 
lower part of the lake, and deposit their alluvion near its mouth. 

Geology. — The mountains, like the rest of the Grampian range, 
belong to the primary formation. Schistus is the chief mineral. 
Roof-slate and lime frequently occur ; but neither are used, nor 
can be used, to any extent. The former is too heavy to pay for 
land-carriage, now that the duty is taken off" slate carried coast- 
wise ; the latter cannot be burned with advantage, on account of 
the distance from coal. 

Zoology. — Wild animals abound, from the varied accommoda- 
tion which the parish affords. Ptarmigan and white hares arc 
found on Benlomond. The mountain eagle is still seen occa- 
sionally there. One was caught in a trap in 1836. Grouse is 
common on the bleak upland moors ; but it is remarked that this 
species is giving way to black game, which seem to multiply with 
the increasing shelter of wood. Roes, for' the same reason, are 
now common. Pheasants were introduced by the late Duke of 
Montrose, and have spread throughout the whole extent of Strath 
Endrick. Squirrels have recently come of their own accord. Hares 



92 STIRLINOSIIIRE. 

are numerous in Buchanan grounds, where they are strictly pre* 
served. It may be observed, that the ground . under crop bears a 
very small proportion to that in pasture, and that the depredations 
of wild animals are severely felt by corn-farmers. 

Wood. — Though the woods in the parish, both natural and plant* 
ed, are of great extent, there is no tree of remarkable size. Hiere 
are manv oaks from 10 to 13 feet in circumference. One near Bu- 
chanan House, at the height of five feet from the ground, is 14 feet 
in circumference, and contains 200 feet of timber. Another oak 
is 18 feet in girth near the surface, but immediately branches out 
into five stems, called the Five Sisters of Buchanan. These trees 
are supposed to be 300 years old. 

II. — Civil History. 
Family of Buchanan. — " The History of the Family and Sur« 

name of Buchanan," by Buchanan of Auchmar, contains the only 
ancient account of the parish. The founder of the family was 
Anselan, a native of Ireland, who is said to have arrived in the 
eleventh century. His descendants originally bore the name of 
M^ Asian, a corruption of Anselan, and were chamberlains to the 
Earls of Lennox. At an early period, they obtained a grant of 
part of the lands of Buchanan, which afterwards became the fami- 
ly name. In 1225, they received from Malduin, Earl of LennoXi 
a charter for Clarinch, an islet in Lochlomond, which was adopt- 
ed as the war-cry of the clan. In 1296, ** Malcolm de Bough- 
canian" appears in the list of proprietors of Stirlingshire * who 
swore fealty to Edward I. of England. In 1482, a younger son 
founded the house of Drumnahill, from which sprung, in i506| 
the celebrated George Buchanan. In 1519, " Walterus Buo- 
quhanan de eodem" conveyed to his son, Walter, the lands of 
Spittal.-f- In 1682, the direct line of male succession became ex- 
tinct; and, in the absence of other competitors, the late Dr H. 
Buchanan of Spittal and Lenny, claimed, in 1826, to be chief of 
the family. The Buchanans are a numerous clan in the Lennox 
and adjacent counties. Besides the M* Asians already mention* 
ed, they recognize as clansmen some other branches whose names 
are common in this district, particularly the Zuils and the Risks, 
— originally soubriquets of individuals, but afterwards surnames of 
their descendants. The one was so called from the day of his 
birth, Yule, (Christmas); the other from the place of his resi* 

* Nimmo's History of Stirlingshire, Appendix, No. 3. 
t Claim by Francis H. Buchanan, M. D. 1826. 



BUCHANAN* 93 

denoe, the Risk (a bare knoll) of Drymen. Many of the Bu- 
chaoans have settled and prospered in Glasgow, where they esta- 
blished a charitable society for the poor mentbers of the clan in 
the Lennox and elsewhere, which distributes the interest of their 
capital, amounting to upwards of L. 500 per annum, among all 
-their branches, whatever be their name. The family of Bu- 
chanan, though it flourished for upwards of 500 years, while Scot- 
land remained a separate kingdom, was never distinguished in po- 
litical transactions. One evident cause was the smallness of the 
family estate, which included only the lower part of the present 
parish. Their fame rests on their literary eminence. Besides 
the classical Buchanan, they can boast of Dr Buchanan, already 
mentioned, celebrated for his valuable works on the civil and na- 
tural history of India, (obiit 15th June 1829); and Dr Claudius 
Buchanan, who is entitled to respect and gratitude for having, by his 
writings and labours, excited the British nation to send the bles- 
aings of education and religion to their Indian empire, (ob. 9th 
February 1815.) 

Family of Montrose, — At the death of the last Buchanan of 
that Ilk, in 168t^, the estate was sold by his creditors, and pur- 
chased by the family of Montrose. They, too, claim high anti- 
quity. Without asserting the existence of the Caledonian, who, 
in the fifth century, is said to have broken down Agricola's Wall, 
and to have given it his own name of Graham's Dike, it may be 
stated, that the present Duke of Montrose is the twentieth lineal 
descendant from Sir Patrick de Graham, who fell, regretted by 
friend and foe, in the battle of Dunbar, in 1296. * This family, 
unlike their predecessor, is famed for their military achievements ; 
'and numbers among their sons, Sir John de Graham, the com- 
panion of Wallace ; the Marquis of Montrose, who flourished in 
the civil wars; the Viscount Dundee, who fell bravely, but vainly, 
attempting to support the tottering throne of James II. ; and the 
present Lord Lynedoch, who distinguished himself by his chival- 
rous exertions in the wars of the French Revolution. The late 
Duke (ob. 80th December 1836) must be mentioned as an able, 
persevering patron of agriculture. During a long life, he was un- 
wearied in embellishing his residence at Buchanan, in improving 
and extending his plantations, and in introducing superior breeds 
of farm stock. 

The Clan Gregor. — The history of the Macgregors is now 

* Httiles*s Annals of Scotland, anno 12$)6. 



94 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

familiar to all, from the ample account of them given by Sir Wal- 
ter Scott in his introduction to Rob Roy. It may be remarked, 
that their predatory and even sanguinary practises are characteris- 
tic rather of a state of society than of a peculiar family, and will 
occur wherever, under a feeble government, a rude tribe is settled 
in the vicinity of an industrious civilized population. Black mail 
was levied on the English border, as well as on the skirts of the 
Grampians ; and the exaction of that anomalous tribute by the 
Armstrongs of the south, was the same in kind, though inferior in 
degree and duration, with that of the Macgregors in the north. 
This sept occupied the upper part of Buchanan. Their noted 
chieftain, Robert Macgregor, better known as Rob Roy, (Red 
Rob,) was proprietor of Inversnaid in Glenarklet. A cave, bear- 
ing his name, is still shown in that neighbourhood ; but it has no 
other claim to notoriety, being merely the interstices between huge 
loose rocks, and well adapted for temporary concealment to an 
outlaw. In the beginning of last century, Rob Roy was a trou- 
blesome neighbour to the family of Montrose. I^ws were passed 
against the whole clan, and, to overawe them, a fort was erected at 
Inversnaid, and garrisoned by a company of soldiers. All these 
measures were of little avail. The Macgregors removed a few miles 
farther into the Highlands, and continued the exaction of black- 
mail till the suppression of the Rebellion of 1745, when an ef- 
fectual remedy was applied, by opening up roads to inaccessible 
districts, by abolishing the heritable jurisdiction of the larger pro- 
prietors, and substituting, for the feeble baronial courts, an eflB- 
cient national administration of justice. Relinquishing their law- 
less habits, the Macgregors soon learnt to emulate their country- 
men in arts and arms. They are still, after being doomed to re- 
peated proscriptions, and being engaged in successive rebellions, a 
numerous race, and are found everywhere, not only under their 
proper name, but also under the slight alterations of Gregor, 
Gregory, Gregorson, and Grierson. Their chief, in former times, 
was often elective. In 1798, Sir John Macgregor Murray, Bart 
was raised to that dignity, by the choice of 826 clansmen, able 
to bear arms. 

III. — Population. 
From the middle of last century, the population has constantly 
declined. It appears from the parish register, that, on an ave- 
rage of ten years from 1715, the number of baptisms was 49, 
which is four times more than the present amount. 



BUCHANAN. 95 

Dr Web«tcr*s return, 1755, gave 1099 
Statistical Account 1793, 1611 

Census . 1801, 748 

Do. 1831, (should have been) .600 

The number stated in last census is 787, which is greatly over- 
. rated. It was taken early in summer, when, besides the resident 
population, there were many women and children from the adja- 
cseot Yillages, and even from Greenock, employed in the annual 
cutting of oak copse : these were all included in the return to Go* 
▼emment The real amount is stated in the table. The decrease 
of the population is ascribed to the enlargement of farms, and to 
the introduction of sheep-husbandry. 

Th^re is no village in the parish. The whole population may 
be called agricultural ; for though there arc about ten families of 
tradesmen, none of them depends exclusively on his trade. There 
is a register kept of baptisms, marriages, and deaths ; but the first 
is incorrect, as many parents omit to register their children, and 
the omission is calculated at one-sixth of the whole number. 

The year! J average for last seren years of births registered, 10 

do. omitted, 2 

of deaths, . 7 

of marriages, 3 

In explanation of the marriages, or rather proclamation of banns, 
it must be stated, that the total number for the last seven years, where 
both parties, and where the male parties were parishioners, w<is 
21, — thus giving the average of three, as entered in the table : but 
during the same period, there were also nine other proclamations, 
where the female parties only were parishioners, which are exclud- 
ed, as belonging to other parishes where the male parties reside. 

The people are sober, industrious, and religious. As the parish 
18 on the Highland border, a part of the inhabitants still retain the 

Gaelic language. There are few, however, that do not understand 

English. 

IV. — Industry. 

. Agriculture. — As there is no survey of the whole parish, the 

following table, so far as the woods and wastes are concerned, is 

conjectural. 

Extent of arable )and, 1500 acres. 

Uwn at Buchanan House, 7o0 

improveable, . 550 

2,800 

natural woods, 9000 

planted do. 1250 

4,250 

7^050 



96 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Brought over, . 7,050 
Extent of waste or irreclaimable pasture, . 69,750 

76,800 

Woods. — The planted woods are almost entirely the work of 
the late Duke of Montrose, and consist chiefly of oak and larch. 
The management of the natural woods was greatly improved by 
his Grace. They are divided into twenty- four hags, or cuttings, 
one of which is sold by auction every year. The whole are cut 
down in the space of twenty- four years. That period has been 
found most suitable for felling copse- wood, as the bark has then 
arrived at its most perfect state for tanning, and as the wood adds 
little to its growth, for some years afterwards. The old stools are 
cut over and neatly dressed, close to the surface of the ground, 
that the young shoots may send out roots to draw nourishment di- 
rectly from the earth. Blanks are Blled with young plants where 
the ground is wet, all the surface drains are scoured, and new ones 
added, if necessary. The young wood, for six years, is carefully 
fenced from cattle : afterwards, it is twice thinned and pruned. 
At every cutting, some of the fairest trees, especially if grown from 
seedlings, are preserved as standards, — greatly to the ornament 
of the country, and to the advantage of the proprietor. The sales 
of natural wood, for the last seven years, have averaged L. 950, 
while those of planted woods have averaged L. 1300, — amounting 
together to L. 2250 yearly, exclusive of timber used for houses 
and farms on the estate. A saw-mill, and one of Ryan's patent 
tanks are in full speration for the use of the estate, and all timber 
used in buildings is steeped in the solution. 

Manufactures. — A manufactory of pyrolignous acid has been 
established for several years at Balmaha, which annually consumes 
700 tons of small wood, not measurable. The wood costs 7s. per 
ton, laid down at the works. All kinds of hard-wood are used ; 
but oak is preferred. The products are acid and dye-stuffs, which 
are used in the print-works around Glasgow. 

Farms. — There are ten farms, varying in rent from L.1500 to 
L.40. There are a few possessions of smaller size, and the work- 
men employed under the proprietor have each a house, garden, 
and pasture for a cow, with liberty to gather winter fodder from 
the grass of plantations. The lower part of the parish is arable, 
consisting of alluvial soil on the bank of Endrick, and of inferior 
soil, of various kinds, clay, gravel, and moss, rising towards the 
mountain range. The rent may be stated at L. 1, 5s. per acre. 



BUCHANAN. 97 

Ifi the upper part, especially along the side of Lochlomond, there 
is some dry fertile ground, bearing good crops of oats and barley; 
but the arable proportion is so small to the mountain pasture, that 
it is little regarded when a tenant estimates the value of his farm. 
He ascertains the number of sheep which it keeps, and calculates 
the rent at from L. 3 to L. 3, 10s, per score. The sheep are black- 
faced, of small size. Some attempts are making to improve them. 
Cheviots have been tried, but found not to answer, on account of 
the elevated exposed situation. The whole parish, except some 
islets, and one farm of L. 40, belongs to the Duke of Montrose. 
The rent is L.5000, 17s. 6d: if the sales of wood, amounting to 
L.2250, be added, the annual return to the proprietors is L.725O9 
]7s.6d. 

Produce, — The following table contains the average gross pro- 
duce of the farmers and others : 



400 acres of oats, at 5 bolls, give 2000 bolls at I6s. L.1600 

90 do. of barky, at 6 bolls, 540 do. at 1^1, Is. 567 

110 do. of potatoes and turnips, at L 8, 880 



16,500 sheep, at 5s. 6d. each, . L.45d7 10 

240 milk cows, at L.4 each, 960 

%I0 black cattle, at L. i, lOs. each, . 1260 

250 cattle grazed in Buchanan ground, at L.d, 750 

10 young horses reared, and sold at L.20, 200 



L.3,047 



7,707 10 



Total produce of crops and cattle, L. 10,754 10 

In this table, no notice is taken of hay, though grass-seeds are 
sown with the white crop after turnips and potatoes, because, from 
the want of a market, the hay crop is generally pastured with 
cattle. No value is put on grass gathered from woods, or on natural 
hav, of which a great deal is made on many farms ; both being in- 
cluded in the estimated produce of live-stock. 

V. — Pakochial Economy. 

There are no towns or viUages, no post-offices, and no turnpike- 
roads in the parish. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated in the lowlands, 
and is a plain edi6ce, very neatly finished, sufficient to accommodate 
300 sitters. The number of communicants at last sacrament was 
255, of whom 79 are heads of families. There are 120 families, of 
which 10 families are Dissenters. About one-third of the popu- 
lation is upwards of ten miles distant from the church, scattered 
along the side of the lake, and in Glendow and Glenarklet. For 
them Divine service is occasionally, during summer, performed 

STIRLING. G 



98 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

at Inversnaid. It is most desirable that a missionary were esta- 
blished in that district 

The manse was built in 1797, at a little distance from the 
church. Previously the minister lived, at the distance of three 
miles, in the original manse which was situated on the bank of 
the lake opposite to Inchcaileoch. The glebe contains 35 acres, but 
mostly bad ground, not worth more than 10s. per acre. The sti- 
pend consists of L. 126 of money, and 24 bolls of oatmeal, with a 
small allowance from Government, to make up the annual value 
of L. 158, 6s. 8d. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers is 24. 
The ordinary funds for their maintenance are the collections at 
church, varying from L.20 to L.2d per annum, and the interest 
of L.400 of poor's stock. The family of Montrose are also very 
liberal to the poorer parishioners, giving clothes, meal, money, and 
sometimes grass for a cow. 

Education, — The parish school is attended by 50 scholars in win- 
ter, and by 40 in summer. During the latter season, the peeling of 
oak bark interferes with the attendance at school. The salary is 
L.dl, with house and garden. There is a charity school at Sa- 
lochy, in the upper part of the parish, attended by 40 scholars in 
winter, but scarcely by the half in summer. The teacher has, be- 
sides a house and cow's grass allowed by the proprietor, a salary 
of L. 15 paid by the Society in Edinburgh. A very few parents 
pay school-fees for their children. A small school is opened at 
Inversnaid. The teacher receives L. 8 from a lady in the neigh- 
bourhood, and is attended by 10 or 12 scholars. The best teacher 
there could not collect 20. To do justice to the scattered popu- 
lation, the school should be not 6xed, but ambulatory. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The population, though now only one-third of what it was a 

hundred years ago, is still likely to decline. In the Highland dis- 
trict, the people are straitened, and their numbers superabundant. 
They have work enough in summer, during the time of wood-cut- 
ting ; but they are next to idle, during the rest of the year. To 
give them constant employment, it may be recommended, 1. to 
extend and improve the arable land of the pastoral district, and, 
by introducing turnip crops, to ameliorate the stock of both sheep 
and cattle ; 2. to plant with larch, and with oak where practi- 
cable, bleak and barren tracts, not merely for the purpose of shel- 
ter, but as a profitable investment of capital, for it appears that 



DRYMEN. 99 

pknte d woods are far more profitable than natural ; and, 3. to open 
up roads throughout the whole parish, by continuing the present 
road from Rowardennan along the east bank of the lake, and join- 
ing it in Glenfalloch with Arrochar turnpike, and by repairing the 
old road to Inversnaid garrison, to maintain a communication 
through Genarklet to the western part of Perthshire. 

Drawn up February 1838. 
Revised March 1841. 



PARISH OF DRYMEN. 

PRESBTTERT OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER LOCHORE, A. M., MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Namtj Boundaries. — The name Drymen, or, as formerly writ- 
ten, DrumeHf is obviously derived from the Celtic word Druinif a 
ridge or knolL The name is peculiarly descriptive of a consider* 
able part of the parish, — the face of the country being much di- 
versified by such knolls. This parish is bounded on the north, by 
Aberfoil and Port ; on the east, by Kippen, Balfron, and Kil- 
learn ; on the south, by Killearn, Kilmaronock, and Dumbarton ; 
on the west, by Buchanan and Kilmaronock. Its extreme length 
is 15 miles, and its breadth 10. It contains about 50 square 
miles, and 32,200 imperial acres. 

Topographical Appearances. — The outlines of the parish are 
very irregular, its figure- approaching to that of an isosceles 
triangle, the base of which runs east and west, while the apex 
points towards the south. A mountainous, moorland track per- 
vades it from east to north-west, and divides the parish into two 
parts, — the northern part is contained within the general basin 
of the Forth; the southern is included within that of the Clyde. 
The bog of Ballat, situated between these two portions, is the low- 
est summit level between the east and west coasts of Scotland, 
with the exception of the Dullater Bog, on the Forth and Clyde 
Canal. According to Smeaton's report, the former is 222 feet, the 
latter 156 above the level of the sea. Towar ds the western verge 
the moor rises into a lofty ridge, which separates this parish from 



100 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

that of Buchanan. The most conspicuous points of this ridge are, 
Benvraick (the spotted hill,) and Guallan (the shoulder,) — the 
former of which may be 1600 feet above the sea level, — the lat- 
ter 1300 or 1400. But, from the circumstance of their standing 
on a broad and elevated base, the appearance they present is not 
striking.* 

A second muirish track, of considerable extent, and forming 
part of the Stockiemuir, occupies a great proportion of the south 
angle of the parish. The largest portion of arable land is situated 
between these two elevated muirs, within the picturesque and well- 
sheltered vale of the Endrick. The rest lies to the east of the 
Bog of Ballat, before-mentioned, and has a northern exposure to- 
wards the Forth. There is also some cultivated land along the 
banks of the Duchray and Keltie waters : but the breadth of this 
is inconsiderable. 

The scenery of some parts of Strath Endrick is very beautiful ; 
and it is rendered not the less interesting from its being in con- 
trast with the wide and desolate muirland, from which you descend 
on either side. From an eminence not far from the manse, there 
is a prospect that is much admired. In the fore-ground, you 
look down upon the rich and extensive lawn of Buchanan, stud- 
ded with innumerable trees ; beyond which, is the wide expanse of 
Locblomond, with the mountains of Ben-Levenf and Argyle- 
shire in the back ground. 

In the north-east of the parish, there is the commencement of 
the low, flat, moss lands which extend all the way to Stirling — six- 
teen miles. This is called the Flanders Moss, It is generally 
supposed to have had its origin 1*rom the overthrow of a vast fo- 
rest, (part of the horrida sylva CaledonixB^) which was cut down 
by the Roman soldiers in the time of Severus, to prevent' the mo- 
lestations of the natives, who had their fastnesses within it. Trees 
of an immense size are frequently dug out, having the marks of 
the axe upon them ; and they are found lying in every direction* 
indicating that they were not overturned by a tempest, but by the 
hand of man. 

• The haughs on ihe banks of the Endrick, in the western extremity of the parish, 
are about 40 feet above the level of the sea, twelve miles distant. The land on the 
Forth, though still further from the coast, is rather lower. 'I'he greater part of the 
arable land in the parish may be at an elevation of from 100 to 250 feet. The high, 
est cultivated land is about 450. 

t Ben-Leven is the peninsula which stretches from Dumbarton to Arrochar, 

bounded on the one side by ihe Leven and l.ochlomond, on tlic other by the Frith 
of Clyde, the Gareloch, and Loch- Long. — called the Isle of Ben-Leven. 



DRYMEN. 



101 



Climate and Diseases. — The climate is moist and variable, as 
might be expected, in consequence of much of the country being 
elevated, marshy, and uncultivated. The prevailing wind is south- 
west In spring we have cold easterly. The writer of this sketch 
kept a register of the quantity of rain that fell in the years 1834, 
1835, 1836, 1837. The instrument employed was constructed 
by Mr Thom of Rothsay, and is similar to many which are now 
in use in the west country. The following are the monthly regis- 
trations, by which it will be seen that this parish has fully its own 
share of rain : — 



1834, 

isas, 

1836, 
1837, 



Jan. 

iImo 

4.20 
6.81) 
5.10 



Feb. 



3.20 
5.60 
3.20 
5.60 



Mar. 



3.60 
5.30 
4. 
1. 



Apr. May 



1.75 
3.20 
1.20 



June'jJul}- 



.25 2.25 a55; 2.05 



5.90 1.55 33() 
.30 4.10 6.40 

2.65 2.50i aao 



Aug. 8ep. Oct. 



3.65 
4 



4.25 
7.40 



4.70! 6.70 



5.25 
3.20 
8.90 



3.25: 2.55' 6.90 



Nov. 

6.25 
6.60 
5.90 
6.25 



Dec 



1.0 
3.90 
3.40 
2.30 




The diseases most prevalent in the parish are, rheumatism, con- 
tinued fever, and inflammatory complaints. Typhus fever has in- 
creased greatly, of late years. Cholera did not visit us in its 
destructive course in 1834; but scarcely a family escaped the in- 
fluenza of 1837, though there were comparatively few deaths. 

Hydrography. — There are no lakes in the parish. The prin- 
cipal rivers are the Duchray, the Forth, and the EndricL The 
Duchray, which is the southern and most considerable branch of 
the Forth, rises near the summit of Benlomond, and forms the 
northern boundary of the parish for some miles. It then leaves it 
to the .south, and after joining the branch from Loch Ard^ and 
acquiring the name of Forth, it approaches and again skirts the 
parish as far as its eastern extremity. The Forth, in this part of 
its course, is an uninteresting stream, its dark waters winding with a 
sluggish current between deep banks of moss, without any object 
that contributes to picturesque beauty. The Endrick intersects 
the parish for nearly two miles, and bounds it for about two more. 
It has its source among the Gargunnock Hills, to the north-east 
of Fintry, and, after a course of eighteen miles in nearly a direct 
line, empties itself into Lochlomond, being the largest river which 
that lake receives. It is a clear rapid stream, and (as its Celtic 
name* is said to imply) very subject to sudden floods, which often 
do considerable damage. In September 1836, it rose fearfully in 
the course of one night, and swept twenty score of lambs from the 
lawn of Buchanan into Lochlomond. On this river, at Gartness, 



• Auxm-eiric^ " river that rises." The old spelling is Anericke. 



102 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

about two miles east of the village of Drymen, there are conside- 
rable falls. For a quarter of a mile, the channel is scooped out of 
the solid rock, and the vexed water forces its way over a series of 
precipices. 

There are many fine springs of water to be found in this pa- 
rish. St Vildrin*s* well, on the farm of Finnich-Drummond, 
may be mentioned as remarkable for the large quantity of water 
which it discharges. In Roman Catholic times, and even within 
a hundred years, many a pilgrim drank of or bathed in its streams. 
An image of the patron saint, carved in stone, still presides over 
it. The world has either grown wiser, or these waters have lost 
their virtues, since not a knee bows now before the stony saint. 

Botany. — In the higher parts of the parish, there are not found 
any of the rare Scottish plants. The Erica vulgaris and cinerea 
prevail ; and where the heath does not grow, the Aira JUxuoMj 
Festuca ovina and vivipara are the principal grasses. In many 
parts of the muirland, are found the Empetrum nigrum^ and the 
Vaccinium Vitis Id(Ba and Oxycoccos. In the low marshy parts, the 
Myrica gale abounds ; also Tofieldia palustrisy Carex^ Juncus, and 
Pamassia palustris. It is worthy of remark, that, where these last- 
mentioned plants prevail, the soil is most congenial to the growth 
of oak coppice, producing bark of the best quality. Upon such 
ground, however, hard-wood will not grow to a large size ; nor 
does the Finns there outlive forty or fifty years. Finns larix^ e.g. 
begins to fail or rot in the heart. 

Wood, — There is no lack of wood in the parish, more especially 
in the vale of Endrick. But, with the exception of the plantations 
belonging to His Grace the Duke of Montrose, there is no great 
quantity in any one place. At the Park of Drumquhassle, Dal- 
nair, and near the manse, there are some magnificent oaks and 
beeches; and at the churchyard-gate, there is a noble ash, once 
the bell-tree^ which has weathered at least 200 years.f 

At the Castle of Duchray, and clustering round its walls, is 
some remarkably fine ivy, next, in age and strength, to that at 
Kenilworth. In the old orchard at Duchray, there are some aged 

• The writer cannot find this saint in the Calendar. The above is the name cur- 
rent in the country. 

t ThJ* ♦^ee is mentioned in the Agricultural Report of Sdriingshire, published in 
1 812, and it may be interesting to compare ito measurement at that date and the 
present. Its girth is there staled at 15 feet at one foot from tlic ground, and 13 feet 
8 inches at the middle of the trunk. It now measures 16 feet 7 inches in circurale- 
rence at one foot from the ground, and 16 feet 1 inch at the middle of the stem, 
about five feet from the ground. 



DRYMEN. 103 

filbert trees, which produce a nut of a larger size and higher fla- 
vour than the common nut of the wood. They were brought ori- 
ginally from the Monastery of Inchmahome, in the Isle of Men- 
teith, to which they had been conveyed from foreign parts. 

II. — Civil History. 

The only accounts of the history and statistics of the parish 
which the author of this sketch knows of are, ^* Description of 
Drymmen paroch, by Alexander Graham of Duchray, 1724," to 
be found in M^Farlan of M^Farlan's Geographical Collections, in 
tbe Advocates'. Library, Vol. ii. p. 439, * and the old Statistical 
Account. 

Family of Drummwd. — The parish gives name to the Drum- 
mond or Perth family. According to tradition, the founder of that 
ancient and noble house was a Hungarian, named Maurice, who 
came over from Hungary in the train of Margaret, Queen of Mal- 
colm Canmore, and obtained, in reward of his services, a grant of 
certain lands, and, among others, of Drymen in Stirlingshire. It is 
uot certainly known in what part of the parish the Drummonds had 
their residence. Mr Nimmo, in his History of Stirlingshire, says, 
that it was probably somewhere near the Endrick. The northern 
part of the parish, however, still goes by the name of the barony 
of Drummond ; and we are inclined to think, from this circum- 
stance, that it was there they had their original seat, though neither 
history nor tradition now indicates the spot. 

Tt is uncertain how or at what time, the Drummonds ceased to 
be connected with Stirlingshire. In the year 1360, in consequence 
of a feud which had long subsisted between them and the Earls of 
Menteith, a compact was entered into at a meeting on the banks 
of the Forth, in presence of the justiciaries of Scotland, by which 
Sir John Drummond resigned certain lands in the Lennox, and 
obtained in lien of them others of greater value in Perthshire. 
Shortly after this, and probably in consequence of it, their resi- 
dence seems to have been transferred, to Stobhall in Perthshire, 
which, along with other extensive estates in that county, had some 
vears before come into possession of the family by marriage. Pre- 
viously to this change of residence, however, Anabella, daughter 




twenty-two, and these miles long enough. " A large half mile from the church, on 
the «outh iide of the Enrick. is the house of Edward Buchanan of Spittal." We 
would now reckon it distant a tolerably large whole mile. v.. 



104 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

• 

of Sir John Drummond, married Robert, Earl of Carrick, High 
Steward of Scotland, who afterwards succeeded to the throne by 
the title of Robert III. The fruit of this marriage was two sons, 
one of whom afterwards became James I. Thus the parish may 
lay claim to the honour of having produced a lady from whom 
descended the Royal House of Stuart ; and who was not more 
distinguished for rank and station, than for the many virtues which 
adorned her character. 

Eminent Men. — The Napiers of Merchiston had, at one time, 
considerable possessions of land in this parish. On the 22d Fe- 
bniary 1494-95, Archibald Napier got a charter under the Great 
Seal, " of the lands and mill of Gartness, the lands of Dolnare, 
Blareour, Gartharne, the two Bollatis, Douchlass, Edinballie," &c 
with the woods and forests thereof, and the fishings of the waters 
of Anerich and Altquhore, in the Earldom of Levenaz and shire 
of Stirling. The whole, with some other lands in adjoining pa- 
rishes, was incorporated into a free barony, and called the barony 
of Edinbellie Napier.* 

The great grandson of this Archibald Napier was John Napier, 
the famous Inventor of Logarithms. According to some autho- 
rities, he was born at Gartness, in this parish, in the year 1550. 
At all events, he is known to have resided there, at various pe- 
riods of his life. Upon his return from his travels on the conti- 
nent, he betook himself to those studies and pursuits which have 
immortalized his name. The seclusion of Gartness, an isolated 
corner, far from the haunts of men, was congenial to a mind de- 
voted to the mysteries of theological and mathematical science. 
In that sequestered spot, living like a hermit, and engaged in 
studies, which few, if any, in these parts could comprehend, it is 
not to be wondered at, that he was looked upon b} the common 
people as a wizard, and was consulted as one who had insight into 
futurity, and intercourse with invisible beings. The retirement of 
Gartness was not without its annoyances. It is told of him that 
the noise of the waterfall and of the mill in the immediate neigh- 
bourhood of his residence, tried his temper not a little by disturb- 
ing him in his studies. The former he could not prevent ; but 
often, when engaged in abstruse calculations, he was in the habit 
of ordering the miller to stop the constant clock-clack of his wheel. 

• A miserable cottage on the farm of Finnich. Drummond, in this parish, Is the 
last vestige, by name, of this once splendid barony. In the fann of Oaigievairn, there 
is a large field which still goes by the name of «' Lady Napier's Field." 



DUYMEN. 105 

There are still visible some fragments of the ruins of the castle 
in which he lived, overhanging the falls of Gartness. A stone, 
with the date 1574, taken from these ruins, is seen built into the 
gable of the mill. The present proprietor, Mr Govane of Park, 
(into whose family the estate of Gartness came, about a century 
and a half ago,) has in his possession some globular stones, with 
the circles of the sphere and constellations engraved on them — 
and concave stones, with engravings of a similar character, which 
are understood to have been made by Napier. There is also a 
stone of this kind to be seen, forming one of the rybats of a win« 
dow of the milL It is very probably to some such handiworks of 
Napier, that Butler in his Hudibras (Part ii. Canto 3,) refers, when 
he speaks of 

'* A moon-dial, with Napier*s bones,* 
And several constellation stones, 
Engraved in planetary hour, 
That over mortals had strange power.** 

As connected by birth, and as formerly minister of this parish, 
may be recorded under this head, the name of the Rev. Princi- 
pal Macfarlan, who so ably presides over the University of Glas- 
gow ; as also that of his father, who was minister of this parish from 
1743 to 1791. The latter is still remembered by the old people 
as a man of great shrewdness and vigour of mind — and of bold in- 
trepid character. 

Land' owners. — These are. His Grace the Duke of Montrose ; 
William C. C. Graham, Esq. of Gartmore ; Robert Govane, Esq. 
of Park of Drumquhassle ; Mrs M. Buchanan, of Drumakiln ; 
James Macfarlane, Esq. of Ballwill ; John Buchanan, Esq. of Car- 
beth ; General Graham Stirling of Duchray; John Todd, Esq. of 
Pinnich Malice; Miss M'Goune of Mains; William Lennie, Esq. of 
Ballochneck ; William A. Maclachlan, Esq. of Auchenlroig ; Rev. 
Dr Graham, of Balfunning; and James M'Nair, Esq. of Balvie. 

The only family of independent fortune residing in the parish 
is, that of Robert Govane, Esq. of Park. The number of proprie- 
tors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards is, 29. There 
are nine resident, who farm their own properties. 

Parochial Registers, — There are five volumes of session-records, 

' '* Napier's Bones." This has reference to an invention of Napier, whereby ho 
contrived, by means of some small rods with the digits inherited on thcin, to perform 
certain operations of multiplication and division. A tract was published in London, 
1684, containing " An Account of ihe Numbering Rods of the Right Honourable 
John, Lord Neeper ; enlarged. Printed for Joseph Moxon, at the sign of the Atlas, 
in Ludgate Street; where also these numbering rods (commonly called Neepcr's 
Bones) are made and sold.** 



106 ' STIRLINGSHIRE. 

the two oldest of which are now in a very decayed and imperfect 
condition. The earliest date is 1676. The record from 1677 
to 1721 is wanting. After that period, with the exception of a 
gap from 1740 to 1748, they seem fully and accurately kept. 
The earliest date of the minutes of session is 1723. The oldest 
date in the church-^yard is 1618. 

Antiquities. — On the farm of Grarfarrao, and within the barony 
of Drummond, are the remains of a Roman fort called the Peel of 
Garfarran, (castle of vexation.) It is at the western extremity of 
the Flanders moss, — and was erected by the Romans, probably 
to protect them from the assaults of the natives, who had betaken 
themselves to the forest. This fort is nearly square. 

The outer and inner rampart are still quite discernible — as al- 
so the fosse surrounding it, with the opening through which it 
might be filled from the rivulet which runs near. 

The names of two places in the parish indicate the sites of re- 
ligious houses, viz. Chapel* Laroch, (site of a church or chapel) 
near Gartmore ;-*-the ruins of this chapel, which existed in 1724, 
when the laird of Duchray wrote his account of the parish, have 
now completely disappeared. And Knockiuhaglish, (hill or knoll 
of the church,) on the lands of Finnich Drumroond, not far from 
the sainted well already spoken of. 

At a short distance from this, on the farm of £. Cameron, a 
large cairn was broken up, about twenty years ago, — in which a 
number of stone coffins were discovered, and human bones found 
therein ; but there is no tradition as to the origin of the cairn, or 
the occupants of these hist vaens, 

III. — Population. 

By the returns made to Dr Webster in 1755, the population was 2789 

By census of 1791, . 1G07 

Do. 18]], . 1500 

Do. 1821, . . 1652 

Do. 1831, 1690 

The great decrease which took place from 1755 to 1791, was 
mainly owing to the union of small farms — the breaking up of the 
system of cotteries — and the inducements held out to the rural popu- 
lation to settle in manufacturing towns. The vestiges of such de- 
populations are very visible. The desert walls and ruins of many 
a cottage, with the solitary trees overhanging them in the different 
districts of this parish, show the change, somewhat melancholy, 
that has come over it. And the many unclaimed lairs in the church- 
yard, tell of many families having passed away, who once lived here 
in simplicity and peace. It is for the moralist and the philanthro- 



DRYMEN. 107 

put to say, if such changes in the state of society have been for 
the better. 

The present population may be classified as follows, viz. 

Number of fiunilies in the paruh, - . 312 

empIo3red in agriculture, - - 160 

in trade, manufiotures, or handicraft, - 64 

Number of males, .... 863 

offemales, - ... 827 

ofmalesaboTe20, . ... 458 

of persons residing in the ▼illage, - - 404 

in the other parts of the parish, • 1286 

above, 70, • - . 62 

There are only two persons above 90. In one family, there 

are four persons, whose united ages make 317, viz. — 83, 84, 

80,70. 

It is diflScuIt to give a correct estimate of the number of births 

and marriages, — the registration of births being much neglected, 

especially by Dissenters ; and the mere proclamation of banns 

being no rule as to the number of marriages, as the solemnization 

of the marriage ofk;en does not take place in the parish of the pro. 

clamation. No regular record of the deaths has been kept Some 

legislative enactment is much wanted to regulate and enforce these 

registrations. 

There is one deaf and dumb man. There are two fatuous ; 
none insane. 

Character of the People. — It may be said of the people generally, 
that they are intelligent, industrious, and frugal, exemplary in their 
habits, and, with few exceptions, attentive to the public ordinances 
of religion. With respect to the enjoyment of the comforts of life, 
they are not behind their neighbours. They are generally well-lodg- 
ed and well-fed ; and at marriages, burials, and in church on Sab- 
bath, show, by their style of decent dressing, that they are in comfort- 
able circumstances. It cannot be concealed that the prevailing vice 
B drunkenness ; encouraged greatly, without doubt, by the too fre- 
quent sign- boards in the country, announcing ^^ porter, ale, and Bri- 
tish spirits."* About twenty-five years ago, smuggling was carried 
on to a great extent in this parish. A seizure is now a very uncom- 
mon occurrence. There is still occasionally some blaziiig in the 
burns ; as much, it is believed, for a winter-night's amusement, as 
for the spoil that is obtained. There is in this country great temp- 
tation to poaching ; the game being very plentiful. The proprie- 
tors generally keep a strict look-out after delinquents. But, upon 

* Vide MacnieH's Scotland's Skaith. 



108 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

the whole, whetljer from principle or restraint, few concern them* 
selves in such illicit practices. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture and Rural Economy, — It has been already stated, 

that the parish consists of about 32,200 acres. The number of 
acres which are cultivated and occasionally in tillage, is about 
7000. It is not easy to say how much is arable. There are large 
tracts in the muirland, and along the lower parts of the mountains, 
which are quite susceptible of cultivation. In many districts where 
sheep and black-cattle are now wandering without inclosure, there 
.are traces of cultivation by a former generation. But, front the 
modern notions of farming, and the distance from lime and from 
markets, it is considered better to let such land lie in a state of 
nature. There may be about 21,700 acres of hill and muirland. 
The land under wood may be stated at about 180 acres of na- 
tural coppice, and 376 planted. 

Soil, — In a parish of such extent, it is to be expected that there 
will be much diversity of soil ; hence, we find every variety, from 
the most barren to the most productive. Along the Forth, there 
are nearly 3000 acres of deep moss, under which there is a rich 
clayey soil, capable of producing the most abundant crops. The 
prevailing soil of the lands on the Endrick, is rich brown loam. 
As you ascend from these low grounds, the soil is fight sandv 
dryfield. But the most common soil of the parish is poor and 
tillv, with a retentive cold subsoil. 

Renty Rate of Wages^ 8fc, — The average rent, per acre, of the 
inferior arable land, may be staled at, from lOs. to 15s. ; and that 
of better quality, chiefly in the lower parts of Strath Endrick, at 
L.2, lOs. The rent of a cow's grazing on the best land is L.3, 10s. ; 
of hill-fed sheep, from 5s. to 6s. The rate of wages for plough- 
men and men farm-servants is from L. 12 to L. 16 a-year, exclu- 
sive of board and lodging; for women, from L. 5 to L.9. La- 
bourers receive from Is. 8d. to 2s. a-day during three-fourths of 
the year, and Is. 6d. during the winter months. Masons and 
Wrights, from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d.; and tailors, when employed in the 
houses. Is. 6d. with victuals. 

Stocky 8fc. — The Ayrshire breed of cattle are generally and 
successfully reared in the south and west ends of the parish. ' The 
north and east districts are much behind in this respect, partly from 
carelessness, and partly from attachment to the old or mongrel 
breed. The sheep with which the muirlands are pastured, are of the 

4 



DRYMEN. 109' 

black-faced kind. For the improvement of the stock, Linton and 
Lammermoor rams are occasionally introduced. On the better 
farms, a few of the 6ner species, such as the Leicester, are kept, but 
chiefly for supplying the " gude-wife" with some better wool for 
her domestic purposes. 

Within the last twenty years, there has been a very great im- 
provement on the stock of this part of the country. This has 
been mainly owing to the exertions of the Strath- Endrick Club. 
By instituting an annual competition, and oflering high premiums 
for the introduction of superior animals, — the former breed, which 
was a mixture of all kinds of inferior stuck, has in a great measure 
disappeared. And the district can now challenge a comparison 
with any part of the country. This club was instituted in 1816, 
and holds its annual meeting in Drj^men in the month of August. 
Its funds are raised by yearly subscription of the members, con- 
sisting of the principal proprietors, clergy, and respectable farmers 
ID the district. His Grace the Duke of Montrose is patron of the 
Club. The late Duke, whose memory will be long cherished in 
this quarter, as an enlightened improver, and a kind and generous 
landlord, contributed greatly, by his influence and exertions, to its 
success. 

Husbandry. — The improvement in agriculture, in this parish, 
has been keeping pace with the improvement in the stock. There 
is, with many of the farmers, a laudable desire of adopting the new 
and approved processes in farming. We have still, however, in 
the remote quarters of the parish, an obstinate adherence, on the 
part of many, to the old system of " their fathers before them !" 
They are contented to " dodge on" in the antique fashion, with- 
out troubling themselves with the modern novelties. 

In the more fertile districts, the five-shift rotation of crops is 
adopted. On many farms, a great deal is now going on in furrow 
or parallel draining; one of the greatest improvements for a 
country like this, in farming. The expense, however, is so great, 
that, without the landlord's bearing a large proportion of the out- 
lay, the tenant cannot carry it on to any great extent. Not a few 
of our landlords, aware of this, are encouraging their tenants to 
drain to any extent, paying the half of the expense. 

On the estate of Finnich Malice, the late George Buchanan, 
Esq. drained in this way to the extent of 60 acres.* The present 

• The present proprietor, John Todd, Esq. is carrying on similar farming opera- 
tions to a very great extent. — 1S41. 



no STIRLINGSHIRE. 

enterprising tenant of Finnich Drummond, John Buchamm, Esq.of 
Ballat, brother of the above-mentioned gentleman, is carrying on 
much of this work, assisted by his landlord, the Duke of Montrose. 
James M^Nair, Esq., of Balvie, has most successfully brought into 
culture about 90 acres of black heathy ground. And now his farm 
of Auchineck, which, nine years ago, was of dismal and forbidding 
aspect, looks as smiling, and is as productive as any in the parish. 

Leases, Farm-houses^ S^c. — The duration of leases is generally 
nineteen years. On the Duke of Montrose's estate it is eighteen, 
and for grass ferms, nine. It would be a great benefit both to 
landlord and tenant, if more attention were paid, in the case of 
renewing leases, to grant the renewal within three or four years of 
the expiry of them. This would prevent the farm being ex* 
hausted, and, likewise, much anxiety of mind to the occupant in 
the prospect of removal. 

The farm-houses and steadings on the larger farms are, in general, 
good and commodious, — but, on the smaller, in many cases, both 
are unworthy of the style of farming and of living of the present 
day. 

Much attention is now paid to fencing with thorn-hedges. The 
trim dressed hedges in the western districts are much admired. 
In many places, however, the hedges have been planted too low ; 
the consequence is, that the thorns getting hold of the cold damp 
subsoil, canker and die. 

The rental of the parish is about L. 9000 ; the valued rent 
L.5069, 10s. 

There are three corn-mills in the parish, and a mill at Gart- 
ness for carding, spinning, dyeing, and weaving woollen goods, 
which are chiefly used in the country. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Village — Markets — Means of Communication^ ifc, — Drymen, 
the only village in the parish, contains a population of 404. With 
the exception of the ordinary trades-people, the inhabitants are 
chiefly employed in country labour. There used to be a fidr, al- 
most every month held here : but of late years, in consequence 
of the improved means of communication, and the increased faci- 
lities of obtaining commodities from other quarters, they are redu- 
ced to four ; chiefly for the hiring of servants. The people of this 
parish mostly avail themselves of the Glasgow markets, eighteen 
miles distant. In the populous districts of the Leven, about seven 
miles to the west of Drymen, and of Duntocher, about twelve 



DRTMEN. Ill 

miles to the south, the farmers find a convenient outlet for their 
produce. 

There are ten miles of turnpike road in the parish, viz. the 
great road leading from Glasgow and Dumbarton, by Drymen, to 
Stirling. And thirty-five miles of parish roads. The latter are 
kept in repair (not the best) by converted statute labour money ; 
the annual amount of which is L. 120. 

There is a very handsome bridge over the Endrick, within a 
mile of the village, connecting this parish with that of Kilmaro- 
nocL This bridge was built in 1765. There is another called 
the Finnich bridge, (recently widened and improved,) stretching 
over a deep romantic ravine, through which the bum is seen strug- 
gling far below. There is a stage-coach three times a week to 
Glasgow; starting at 7 a. m. and returning same day by 8 p. m. 
There is a weekly carrier, and a daily post* 

Eederiasiical State. — The parish church is situated near the vil- 
lage of Drymen— -but set down most inconveniently for more than 
half of the inhabitants of the parish. It is within half a-mile of 
the west extremity of the parish ; and there is a population to 
the north and east of it, of upwards of 700, from six to twelve miles 
from the church. This inconvenient state of things has been 
somewhat remedied, of late, to the inhabitants of the east parts of 
the parish, by the erection of a church in the village of Buchly- 
▼ie, within the parish of Kippen. To this church a population of 
400 belonging to this parish, have been attached quoad sacra ; 
and now many, who, from their distance from the house of God, 
could seldom be there, have a church so conveniently placed for 
them that they can enjoy the ordinances every Lord's day : — one 
of the good fruits of church extension. 

The inhabitants of the north of the parish, (about 300), being 
separated from the church and its ordinances by a wide and deso- 
lute muir, — seldom, excepting on sacramental occasions, come 
across. The minister has been in the habit of ofiiciating among 
them twice a-year. But they generally avail themselves of the be- 
nefit of public worship in the churches of Aberfoil and Gartmore ; 
with which, however, they have no privileged connection. 

The parish church is a plain substantial building, erected in 
1771, and is at present in good repair. It affords accommodation for 
about 400, and is sufficiently large for all who can attend. The seats 
are parcelled out among the heritors, according to their valuations. 



112 STIRLINGSHIRE. ' 

And their tenantry, servants, and poor, occupy tbeir respective al- 
lotments. 

The sacrament of the Lord's supper is dispensed twice a-year, 
in June and November. 444 communicants are at present on the 
roll, of whom 145 are male heads of families. 

The manse was built in 174b, and has, from time to time, receiv- 
ed repairs and additions. It is a substantial and commodious house ; 
delightfully situated on a bank overlooking the Endrick, and is per- 
haps not surpassed, in the beauty of the situation, by any manse in 
Scotland. The extent of the glebe, including garden and policy at- 
tached to the manse, is about seven acres. Its yearly value in rent 
may be about L.20. There is no grass glebe ; but the minister has 
an allowance of LI, 18s. 4d. in lieu thereof. The stipend, by de« 
creet of the Teind Court in 1831, is 17 chalders, half meal, half 
barley. But the heritors having since surrendered their teinds, 
it is now 319 bolls, 2 pecks of meal, and L. 7, 3s. 9d. of vicarage. 

By the statements laid before Her Majesty's Commissioners, 
when they visited Drymen in 1837, there are 340 Dissenters in 
the parish, belonging chiefly to the United Secession and Re- 
lief. The remaining 1350 belong to the Established Church. 
In the village of Drymen, there is a United Secession Chapel, 
built in 1819, at an expense of L. 370. The minister's stipend 
is L.85, and a house valued at L.15 per annum, raised from the 
seat rents, by ordinary and extraordinary collections, and by occa- 
sional aid from the synod fund. Those of the parish who are 
connected with the Relief dissent attend the Relief chapels in 
Balfron and Kilmaronock. 

Education, — The parish school is within half a mile of the vil- 
lage of Drymen ; but, like the parish church, is inaccessible to 
more than half of the population. The teacher has L.31 of sa- 
lary, and an excellent school and dwelling-house, together with 
the legal quantity of ground for a garden. 

There is in general a laudable desire on the part of the parents 
to give their children a good, useful education. But classical 
learning appears to be fast on the decline in this quarter, there 
being only two Latin scholars in the parish school, and only one 
college student resident in the parish. 

With the exception of about half a dozen, and these incomers 
into the parish, there are none above fifteen years of age who can- 
, not read. 

There are two schools in the northern and eastern districts of 



DRYMEN. 113 

the pariah, id which the ordinary branches are taught ; the former 
kaving, in addition to the school fees, L.5, lis. of salary, granted 
from the rents of the bishoprick of Dunkeld ; the latter having 
the interest of L. 88, left by the late Miss M^Lachlan of Auchin- 
troig. There is also, in the village of Drymen, an infant school, 
taught by a female; the building and ground granted by His 
Grace the Duke of Montrose ; and, in addition to the school fees 
of 2d. a-week, a few pounds are raised by contribution by the 
friends of the institution. 

There are two Sabbath schools; the one taught by the mhiister 
of the parish, the other by the Dissenting minister. 

The number of scholars in the parish is as follows, viz. — 

Parish sehoolf III 

Do. evening, . • .36 

Infimt school, . 30 

Dalroary, . .96 

Auchintroig, . 28 

Taught privately, . 12 

253^ 
Being rather more than one-Mventh of the population. 

Library.-^ A Parish Library was instituted in 1829. It con- 
oats of nearly 400 volumes, well selected, and consisting chiefly of 
books of history, travels, and religion. It is in a flourishing con- 
dition, and has tended not a little to diffuse a taste for reading. 

Sttmng^ Bank, — A Savings' Bank was begun here in 1829, 
and has proved most beneficial to many of the contributors, both 
in the habits of economy they have been thus led to practise, and 
in the means it has put in their power of improving their condition 
in life. There are at present forty depositors ; two-thirds of whom 
are servants. The following statement will show its progress for 
the last seven years : 



its in 1831, 




L.104 




Due at the year's end, L. 256 


1832, 




91 




311 


1833. 




49 




246 


]8&i. 




74 




305 


1835. 




45 




336 


1836, 




129 




416 


1837, 




67 




413 



Besides this, a considerable sum in small bills, belonging to some 
of the depositors, is lodged in the regular bank ; so that there 
may be in all about L. 700.* 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — There is no assessment for the 
poor in this parish. The funds available for their support, and 

• The funds of ihU taving^' bank hnve been transferred lately to the National 
Sarmga* Bank, Glasgow — the minister still acting as rccc-iTer. — I84L 

STIRLING. H f 



114 STlULlNliSHlRE. 

at the disposal of the kirk-session, are such as arise from ih4 
church collections, mortcloth money, donations, and the interest 
of L. 185, which has been realized frou) mortiGcations, and savings 
from church collections. The collections, on an average of the 
last seven years, amount to L. 35, 9s. dfd. There are at present 
on the roll 17, who receive, according to their circumstances, 
from 7s. 6d. to L. I, 12s. 6d. per quarter, besides occasiooally 
coals, cordials, and extra help, when in sickness or destitution. 

There is still much of the good old Scottish feeling among the 
people, of reluctance to receive parochial aid. The fact, that, at 
the period when the last Statistical Account was written^ there 
were 38 poor on the roll and now only 17, is a proof that the people 
are either in better circumstances, or that they are, if possible, 
more unwilling to receive such help. It is no uncommon occur- 
rence for the parishioners to raise by subscription, a sum of money 
in aid of some individual or family who have been thrown into 
destitute circumstances, by affliction or bereavement, rather than 
that they should be subjected to the humiliation of becoming pa^ 
rish paupers. An instance has just occurred. A poor, industri- 
ous family had their eldest son (a promising young man, a stu* 
tlentO brought home to them in fever; — and he died. The fa- 
ther and mother were seized. The father died ; their means were 
exhausted, and there were eight young children to provide for : 
and the poor, widowed, disconsolate mother, from her sick-bed, en«> 
treated of the minister who offered her relief, that whatever he 
bestowed should not be from the parish funds. The people's sym- 
pathy and prompt liberality have done for her what the parish 
funds could ill afford. Such a spirit, while it may be characteriz- 
ed as that of honest pride, it is to be hoped, has respect to the 
promise, " Leave thy fatherless children, I will preserve them 
alive — let thy widows trust in me." Such a spirit, there is no 
doubt, will lead to industry, and will raise up friends to help, and 
so will God ful61 his promise. 

Police^ Prison^ §-c — There is not a justice of peace, nor magis- 
trate of any kind resident within the bounds of this parish ; neither 
is there a jail or lock-up house from the most westerly verge of 
the county onward to Stirling, — a distance of nearly fifty miles. 
The consequence is, that crinre and misdemeanour frequently go 
unpunished, the arm of the law not being long enough nor strong 
enough to reach so far; and parties who have been injured, pre- 
ferring to suffer damage rather than be put to the trouble and ex- 



DENNY. 115 

t^ose of seeking redress at a distance. This is the cause of much 
complaint* 

Irnis^ 4*^ — There are 12 inns or public-houses in the parish ; of 
these, there are 7 in the village, certainly by far too many for any 
good or salutary purpose. Their influence on the morals and cir- 
cumstances of the people is exceedingly injurious. There is but 
one opinion among all well-thinking people in the community here, 
as to the necessity of something being done towards the reduction 
of the number of licenses. 

Fudy jrc— In consequence of the distance and expense of coal, 
its use is limited among the lower orders here. Their chief fuel 
is peat, which is to be had in abundance in the moors in the neigh- 
bourhood. The nearest good coal is to be had at Garscube,^ 
thirteen miles from Drymen. The price of a cart of 14 cwt., in- 
cluding carriage and tolls, is from Ids. to 14s. 

WriUm December \eaS— Revised March 1841. 



PARISH OF DENNY. 

PRKSBYTERT OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF P£RTII AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. JOHN DEMPSTER, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Thb name, it is conjectured, is a corruption of the Gae- 
lic word Dun^ signifying a hill. It is descriptive of the locality, 
upon the height of a gentle acclivity, which slopes on the north 
to the river Carron, and on the south to Sclanders burn. The 
church is 400 yards from the nearest bank of Carron, and the 
boQses extend from the church down a neat street to the bridge 
over the Carron, here called Denny-bridge. The ancient village 
consisted of a broad street, having a row of houses on each side 
directly east from the church, on the road to Falkirk and Edin- 
burgh. A new street, parallel to this broad Street, with one row 
of neat bouses on the north side, has risen since this century 
commenced. This street is called, in honour of the principal he- 
.ritor, Herbertshire Street There are no houses on the southern 

• Within the ls«t year one of the recently appointed Rural Police has been sU« 
Hied at Balfron. But one man, who haa the supervision of 6ve parishes, can do us 
Tcrj little good — 1841. 



nC STIRLINGSHIRE. 

declivity of the little eminence on which the town stands, partly 
from the glebe being on the west side of that declivity, and part- 
ly from the nature of the ground on the east side, and high price 
of feuing.* 

Extent — The parish is generally computed at 6 English miles 
in length, and 4 in breadth, on an average. It is much about 
the same dimensions as laid down in a map of the county of Stir- 
ling, from a survey by Grassom, and published in 1817. About 
the same time, a survey and valuation of the rent of the parish was 
made by Mr William Kemp, land-surveyor, by direction of the 
Honourable Charles Elphinstone Fleming of Cumbernauld, supe- 
rior of a great part of the parish, — a copy of which is before me, 
dated 9th July 1818, subscribed by Mr Kemp. The extent in 
Scots acres, according to him, exclusive of the common, which 
was divided in 1800, is 5314 acres, 4 falls, valued at the yearly 
rent of L. 79 14. The extent of the common he makes 702 acres, 
20 falls Scots measure, and the yearly value, L. 173, 8s. 44d. 
Both together make the parochial territory 6016 acres, 24 falls 
Scots measure, and the rental, L. 8087, 8s. 4id. 

Boundaries. — The Darrach Hill, a principal feature of this 
parish, {^^Hill of Oaks,*) f forms the western boundary, fromwhich^ 
sloping to the eastward, in few places with abruptness, the whole 
parish stretches along to the parish of Dunipace, its boundary in 
that direction. The rivers Carron and Bonny are its lateral 
boundaries, Carron on the north, and Bonny on the south. On 
the^est and north of Carron, the contiguous parishes are St Ni- 
nians and Dunipace ; and on the south, Falkirk and Cumbernauld. 
The parish of Kilsyth is the boundary on the south west. 

Topographical appearances, — The figure of the parish is ir- 
regular, but has some resemblance to a parallelogram. In 
this figure, but more to the north side, there is a wide irregular 
ridge of whinstone and freestone through its whole length, from 
which the grounds slope on each side — on the north towards 
Carron, and on the south towards Bonny, dividing the parish into 
two nearly equal parts, both as to extent and population, 
often called South and North Herbertshire, and referred to in 

* The entry to Denny from the south is now improved by a new tumpUie 
being made. An excellent house, fronting botii the west and the notth, has been 
erected on the cast side of the road. The road is now wide, and of easy ascent, 
fi-om the erection of a new bridge over Sclandersburn. The height opposite tbe 
church-gate has been levelled, and the appearance of the town by this entry is even 
l)eautiful.— (1841.) 

f N'imnio's History of Stirlinfrsbiic, p. 740. 



DKNNY. 117 

Tarious tenures by these appellations, as the lands happen 
to lie on the north or south side of the parochial ridge. The 
reason of these appellations is unknown. If true, as the editor 
of the second edition of Nimmo's History of Stirlingshire states, 
page 789, that Herbertshire was the name of a parish,* Denny 
might have been part of that parish, and have thus got its natural 
divisions characterized. The surface of the parish is diversified 
by heights and hollows, blended together by varied and beautiful 
uodulations. The only hill within it, is Myothill, the property of 
John Graham, Esq. It is in the upper division of the parish, which 
is called Temple Denny. It is comparatively small, but beauti- 
ful, of a conical shape, and lies at the base of Darrach Hill, justi- 
fying, firom its general, lateral, and summit smoothness, its name 
of Myot, which is conjectured by the editor already mentioned to 
signify smooth or soft. Myothill- House stands at the bottom of the 
hill, embosomed in trees, and forms the most prominent parochial 
object to the traveller westward from Falkirk. The turrettcd 
antique grandeur of Herbertshire, the house of the lady of 
the late William Forbes, Esq. of Callendar, and mother of the 
present William Forbes, Esq. of Callendar, late Member of Par- 
liament for the county of Stiriing, first, indeed, attracts notice, 
from its fine elevated position on the northern bank of Carron, in 
a lawn adorned with ancient trees ; but, although the fourth part 
of the parish of Denny belongs to its proprietor, Herbertshire is 
ID the parish of Dunipace. The undulations of the surface for a 
mile about Denny, and more especially to the eastward, are no- 
ticed as varied and attractive, and by strangers particularly admir- 
ed for their beautv. The rush of the diluvial waters from Darrach 
Hill to the Forth, sweeping before them the softer mould, seems 
to have occasioned the tasteful knolls in this direction, which adorn 
the lower fields of the parish. 

Hydrography. — Springsabound in the parish. but none of them are 
remarkable for peculiar properties. Castlerankine (conjectured to 
mean Casik of the headland point J burn is the largest rivulet that runs 
through the parish. It forms the boundary between Temple Denny, 
and North and South Herbertshire, markingoff that portion of the 
parish — a third part, perhaps, of the whole — which, it is said, once 
belonged to the Knights Templars. It rises in the south-west, at a 
little distance from the base of Darrach Hill, and falls into Car- 

• It i» mentioned w a barony in a charter of Robert I. Nlinmo's Hist. p. 575. 



Il8 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

ron, near Denny Bridge. It takes part in contributing to the 
manufactured products of the parish. About a mile from Denny, 
there was once a lint-mill driven by its waters. Next, about five 
years ago, a small print field was set down, instead of the lint- 
mill. The printfield having not succeeded, was relinquished; 
and Messrs John Gray & Son have now, within these twelve 
months, in consequence of extending their dyewood manufactory, 
become proprietors of it. Lower down the rivulet, there are che- 
mical works, for making pyrolignous acid and its compounds, in 
which its waters are useful for keeping the metal conduits cooK 
But both these manufactories will be more particularly noticed 
afterwards. 

Cascades. — In the division called Temple Denny, and within a 
mile of the new bridge over Carron, on the road to Fintry, about 
five miles west from Denny, there is a cascade called AuchinliUy- 
lin-spout. In the first year of the present century, the wild 
natural beauties of the spot were transformed into a sort of fairy- 
land, by the genius of Robert Hill, Esq. W. S. Edinburgh, who 
had purchased the lands of Forrest Hill, of which it is a part. A 
rustic cottage of whinstone, with the angular points facing one 
in all directions, was built on the very margin of a deep fissure, 
through which the waters of Carron flow, to be tossed over the 
rock of Auchinlilly, within perhaps six yards of the heath-covered 
cottage. There were a kitchen, a- cellar, and other apartments ; 
and also a stable was dug chiefly out of the rock, below the level of 
the floor of the cottage. On that floor, were a handsome dining- 
room, drawing-room, and two small bed-rooms. A spacious win- 
dow in the dining-room fronted, westward, the rushing waters as 
they fell over the rock into the fissure, in their course to the spout. 
The river was seen, for some way up its channel, diffused in com- 
parative largeness of expansion, and studded with tiny rocks, which 
might be reached when the waters were low. At other times, the 
river, swollen by the rains around the Muckle Bin, from which it 
takes its rise, and by the various feeders of the Carron between 
the Bin and Auchinlilly, rushing forward in roaring majesty, pre- 
sented a magnificent spectacle from the dining-room window. On 
one occasion, the stream, having suddenly risen much above its 
usual elevation, struck the dining-room window with its surges, 
and, increasing in strength, burst through the window, and, 
rushing into the kitchen and cellar, made a new cataract 
over the rock adjoining the spout, into the channel of the riven 



DENNY. 119 

No lives were lost The damage was speedily repaired, and, 
to prevent in future such accidents, a deep excavation in the 
rock was made in front of the cottage, through to its east rocky 
banksi suflScient to receive any future overflowings. It was arch- 
ed over, and thereby easy access, as formerly, to the entrance 
to the cottage was provided. The banks on each side of the 
river were planted ; walks were made along their sloping sides, with 
resting-places at proper stations, for enjoying the picturesque beau- 
ties of the scene. A carriage way from the turnpike, from Denny 
to Pintry, was formed down to the cottage. A bridge of plank^ 
close to the spout, was thrown over the fissure, which divides 
Denny parish from St Ninians, to give access to the garden on 
the other side. For a time, it was the resort of the curious, who 
came even from a distance to see and enjoy the scenery of the 
Cliffs of Carron, the name by which it was known. A mother's 
fears for her offspring, amidst so many perils, soon made the ami- 
able and accomplished lady of the property, a stranger to its beau- 
ties. The last interesting inhabitant of this once enchanting and 
still beautifully wild place, was the widowed sister of the amiable 
Graham, the Sabbath poet. Since she left it, some dozen years 
ago, it has gradually decayed, and has at present only the ruins of 
its beauty remaining. It is now the property of Archibald Wish- 
art, Esq. W. S. Deputy- Keeper of the Register of Sasines, Edin- 
burgh. 

Rochi. — The rocks are whinstone and freestone. The dip in 
a recently opened freestone quarry in the parochial ridge, already 
mentioned, is from the north, cropping-out on the south. Its co- 
lour is whitish. There are other freestone rocks, of yellowish and 
greyish colour, as well as whitish. 

Sails. — On the lower banks of Carron and Bonny, the soil is 
loamy. In the upper parts, it is frequently marshy, and in the 
central parts, gravelly. 

Mines, — The mines in the parish are of ironstone and coal. The 
ironstone lies in Castlerankine division of the parish ; the coal is 
diffused over the upper part of the parochial surface, and more 
especially in the southern quarter, called Banknock. The coal 
QD the northern side of the parochial ridge, though nearest Denny 
imd the manufactories, is only occasionally worked, owing to the 
want of a level for drawing off the water ; and it is doubted whe- 
ther the quality of it be such as would indemnify the working it by 
steam. 



120 STIRLlNGSlllUE. 

Banknock coal is the common fuel of the parish and neighbour- 
hood, and is sent by means of the adjoining canal, both to Green- 
ock and Edinburgh. There are three strata of this mineral in 
the district of Banknock. No. 1. The upper seam of 60 acres, 
3 feet 6 inches thick. No. 2. The thin seam, 160 acres, 22 
inches thick ; and. No. 3. the main seam, of about 100 acres and 
b feet thick. The deepest pit at present is 68 fathoms deep. 

JVood. — There are no plantations in the parish ; but there may 
be about 200 acres of coppice wood on the property of William 
Forbes, Esq. 

11. — Civil Histoby. 

The parish of Denny was originally a part of the parish of Fal- 
kirk, from which it was separated, as is supposed, (for the records 
are lost), about the year 161 a The rector of Falkirk had a vicar 
at Denny, who, besides the small tithes, had a valuable glebe of 
28 acres, which was by the last vicar, before the Reformation in 
1560, in some way, secured to some of his family connections. 
The vicar's name was Oswald. The property was conGrmed to 
the family by a formal approbation of James VI. Excerpts from 
that proceeding, written in Latin, are before me. The text is 
not complete. The property continued in the name of Oswald 
until the death (about twenty-live years ago) of James Oswald of 
Dryborough. Dryborough is adjacent to Denny, and is the name 
by which the ancient glebe lands are at present known. The 
Protestant minister had 4^ acres Scots provided for him out of the 
glebe lands, — a provision which is still enjoyed by his successor, and 
which constitutes the whole glebe land which now belongs to the 
cure. There are deeds among the sasinesof Stirlingshire from 1 520 
to 1620, kept in the Register- Office, Edinburgh, which the curious 
will be rewarded by consulting on the subject of church lands, as 
applicable to the parish of Falkirk, and to Denny, as part of that 
parish. The minister of the parish of Polmont, disjoined also 
from Falkirk about a century ago, draws from the heritors in 
Temple Denny, in this parish, the equivalent for his grass glebe, 
a satisfying evidence that both parishes were, at one time, portions 
of the parish of Falkirk. 

Chief Land-owners. — William Forbes, Esq. of Callendar is 

the principal land-owner in the parish. He has lately added 

to his extensive domains in various parishes in Scotland, the 

fine estate of Donovan, on the opposite side of the Carron, 

and is now principal heritor in Dunipace as well as in Dennv. 

4 . 



DKNNY. 121 

Mr Forbes holds the fourth part of the valued rent of Denny ; 
John Graham, Esq. of Myothill is the other principal heritor of 
Denny, and resident in the parish, whose estate is about one- 
seventeenth part of the valued rent. The remaining heritors are 
about 120 in number. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers consist of nine 
volumes. The births aqd marriages commence about 1679; but 
both the volumes are in a dilapidated state. They are merely a 
list of names, having no speciality connected with them but the 
date. 

The minutes of session commence in 1742. There are great 
gaps in them, not from decay, but from no minutes, so far as ap- 
pears, having ever existed.* 

Since the commencement of the present century, the session 
records exhibit all the meetings and the business done ; and are 
subscribed by the moderator. The births and marriages are also 
entered in properly bound volumes. It is to be regretted, however, 
that there are some who do not record the baptisms or births of 
their children. Not a year passes in which parties do not suffer 
from this neglect. 

Antiquities. — On the southern boundary of the parish, about 
Bankier (Fair- fort), are circular places said to be the sites of 
Caledonian camps. The great Roman station at Castlecarie, 
a small portion of the remains of which, after seventeen ceutu* 

* Mr Watson, proprietor of Knowhcad, a respectable property in the parish, and 
wboae ornamented tombstone is in good preservation in the churchyard, is supposed 
to have been the first minister of Denny after the Ilevohition in 1688. His induction 
it not mentioned in the Presb3rtery records, but his death in 1733 is mentioned. 

There Is one remarkable minute in reference to a point, which, a few years ago, 
was agitated between the heritors and the kirk-session, namely, the payment for the 
education of poor children. The act 1808 makes it imperative on the parochial 
teacher to instruct the poor gratis ; but in this parish, from the parochial school- house 
being in the northern extremity of the parish, and there being families four miles 
distant from school, the children of the poor not being able to attend the parochial 
teacher, on account of this distance, must either be neglected, or taught at some 
sdiool nearer theur dwellings; and in that case, it was contended, the school wages^ 
mutt, according to use and wont, be paid out of the parochial poor^s fund. This 
wa« resisted : but for peace*s sake, the session acquiesced. At that time also, some 20 
of the 121 persons entitled to vote at heritors* meetings, objected likewise to the 
payment of the salaries of the presbytery and synod clerk, and their beadle, &c. The 
argument from the use and wont payment of such charges was not listened to : and 
from the causes just mentioned, these officers of the church have not been paid, as 
hereU^ore, out of the parochial funds for the poor, since 1831. There is before me 
a distinct minute of session, dated 28th May 1746, with the list of the elders pre- 
sent nomknativts and signed William Bennet, moderator, in which these disputed 
charges are distinctly mentioned as paid, and reported accordingly. In settling the 
accounts, the words are, " also for the Synod and Presbytery clerk, and Presby- 
tery beddal, at by particular account, the sum of,** the amount paid is partly soiled, 
and partly torn, and not legible throughout, and '* also John Bane is allowed by the 
session twelve pounds Scots for teaching |KK>r scholars." 



122 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

vies, is still in good condition, is opposite and near to Bankier ; 
and the Fair- fort, it seems not unreasonable to conclude, once stood 
there to guard the terra invicta of Scotland. 

The only other antiquity in the parish is that mentioned in the his- 
tory of Stirlingshire. " In digging at Woodgate, ( Woodyet), on the 
Carron, for the foundation of the newly built house, there, (now cal- 
led Headswood Cottage,) a rude stone coffin, made of flags, about 
two-thirds of the ordinary length, placed nearly perpendicular, and 
containingthebonesof an adult person, was found. It is dated, as we 
have learned, 1301." The stone is placed in the lobby of thecot- 
tagOy and is seen by every one who enters it. Some of the bones 
found were, for a while, in the manse of Denny. They are suppos- 
ed to be the bones of some distinguished person, who fell in con- 
nection with the invasion of Edward I. in 1298. 

Modem Buildings.'-^The parish church, built in 1813, is the 
principal modern building. Next in point of date, is the church 
built at Denny Ix)nehead, for members of the United Seces- 
sion. These two churches are very much alike in external ap- 
pearance and interior arrangement. They are nearly the same 
in size, the latter having only about 40 sittings fewer than the 
Established Church. The parish church has a turretted steeple, 
about 75 feet in height, which was erected at the east end of the 
church by voluntary subscription, chiefly of churchmen. Hag^s 
Church, opened I9th July 1840, and built by voluntary subscrip. 
tion, is the neatest church in the parish, and has about 700 sittings. 

There is a decent place of worship in Denny, of a square form, 
belonging formerly to the Burghers, but now to the United Asso- 
ciate Synod Members. It contains nearly 200 fewer sittings than 
any of the other two. There are various modern buildings, in all 
parts of the parish, erected since this century commenced. Two- 
thirds and more of the present town of Denny have been built with*- 
in that space. The houses are generally of two stories, with garrets, 
slated roof of blue slates, and finished with sashed windows, &c 
Around Denny, and also in the village of Hags and its vicinity^ 
there are diflerent neat cottages as well as some houses of two 
stories. The most remarkable erection at Hacfs is a handsome row 
of collier cottages, amounting to twelve in number, terminated on 
the east with a large building as a store for the workers at the col- 
liery. These were built in 1836. A manifest improvement is 
taking place in the farm -steadings on the estate of Herbert- 
shire. The smaller proprietors have done much, within these 



DENNY. 123 

last thirty years, to improve their dwellings. Increased com- 
fort and tasteful .arrangement are gradually advancing. One now 
meets with boarded floors, plastered walls and ceilings, and in some 
iDstances, with parlours furnished with tables, sofas, and carpets. 

A commodious building, adjoining to the town of Denny, for 
the parochial school, is now in progress. This structure will 
be an ornament to the town, and serves, among other paro- 
chial improvements, to give evidence of the care with which Mr 
Forbes attends to the educational interest of the youth of the 
parish, and the domestic comfort of the teacher. 

Mills and Manufactories. — There are eleven of these on the 
banks of Carron, within a mile and a-half of the town of Denny. 
There are seven of them modem buildings ; one for manufacturing 
oatmeal and pot-barley, one for millboards, one for dye-stuffs, 
and three for spinning sheep's wool. Herbertshire Mill, the 
oldest establishment in the parish for manufacturing paper, 
and the other mills, were the work of last century. Two dis- 
tilleries have been also erected, one in Denny and another at 
Bankier, already mentioned. A spade-manufactory, about a 
mile and a-half down the Bonny from Bankier, has been set ago- 
ing, within these few years ; and, lastly, a considerable wheat- 
en, floui^ oatmeal, and pot-barley mill, with a small saw-mill, 
were built, some time since, at Bonnyford, in the eastern ex- 
tremity of the parish. The waters of Bonny not furnishing ade- 
quate power for meeting the demand for the manufactories here, 
a steam-engine is erected and put to work, when necessary. 

1 1 1. POPUL ATI ON. 

There are no accounts of the population previous to 1755. In 
that year, the parochial population, as reported by Dr Webster, 
amounted to 1-392 souls ; as reported by Mr Fergus in 1790, it 
was 1400 ; as taken by the writer hereof, by personal communica- 
tion in the years 1800 and 1801, it was found to be, 1967; by 
Government census in 1821, 3364 ; Ditto, 1831, 3843; as com- 
municated in 1837, and reported to the Royal Commissioners on 
Religious Instruction when in Denny on 27th February 1838, 
— 4300. 

The increase of manufacturing is obviously the main cause of 
the great and progressive increase which has taken place, and 
which seems to be steadily continuing. Denny has such advanta- 
ges of situation, that before another century revolves, it may be a 
large manufacturing town, with its provost and bailies, churches. 



124 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

ministers, and elders. About half a century ago, Denny was on- 
ly a hamlet adjoining the church, containing unsophisticated pray- 
erful families. 

Population in villages, • 2421 

in the country, • 1879 

4300 
The yearlj average of births for the last seven years is 86 

of deaths, . . 70 

of marriages, 95 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is 1597 

between 15 and 30» 983 

aO and 50, . 1837 
50 and 70, . 349 
upwards of 70, . 34 . 

4300 

Of proprietors of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, there are . 41 

There are of unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 21 

females, upwards of 45, • . . 88 

Insane persons, 1 ; fatuous, 1 ; blind, 3 ; deaf and dumb, 2. 

Amusements. — Curling, in its season, is eagerly pursued, and the 
confidence of the Denny players, in their superior skill and tact, 
prompts a challenge every season to their neighbours. A year 
or two ago, a Denny Curling Club was formed. John Carnie, 
Esq. of Curling Hall, Largs, so well known to the curling world 
by his zeal for curling, received at Denny the rudiments of his emi- 
nent skill in curling, That gentleman is the second son of the late 
Mr Niel Carnie, who was a principal partner in the firm of Messrs 
Thomas Shiels and Co. of Herbertshire Printfield. On the 
Carron, and the reservoirs of the printfield, his son, John, first 
shone as a curler, and imbibed the knowledge which enabled him 
to write a standard work on curling, and to bear the palm for 
the invention of a curling rink, which, on any morning, when 
there is a little frost, may, by a slight suffusion of water over 
its surface, present in four hours, (the thermometer at 28°,) the 
finest and firmest ice- a curler could desire. 

A Denny Archers* Club was instituted in 1828, for the pur- 
pose of enjoying the amusement of archery. The club competes 
annually for the captaincy, at the distance of 100 yards, the 
captain being preses for the year, — for two poisoned arrows from 
the island of Mombase, at the distance of 160 yards, — for a sil- 
ver medal, at 50 yards, — for three prizes of arrows, at f30 yards, 
—and for a silver arrow, at the same distance, — the successful 
competitors becoming vice-presidents. The medal and arrows 
remain in the possession of the successful competitor ; the others 
are shot for annually. Members are admitted by ballot, — one 



DENNY. 125 

black-ball excludes. The club dine together in October, annu- 
ally ; and the greatest harmony has existed among its members, 
since its institution. 

The people generally enjoy in a good degree the comforts of 
society, and are contented with their situation. Unprincipled* news- 
papers, are the chief causes of any discontent that exists. Their 
general character, however, is good. They are rather what may 
be called a church-going population. There are sometimes, but 
not often, prosecutions for poaching. Smuggling is annihilated. 
Would that drunkenness were so also I 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — A practical and extensive agriculturist has favour- 
ed the writer with the following statements. He computes the 
whole number of acres within the parish at 7520. 

Gf the above number there are either cultivated, or in occasional tillage, 6000 

Acres which havft never been cultivated, and which remain constantly 

waste or in pasture, • - 1 139 

Acres which might, with a profitable application of capital, be added to 
the cultivated land of the parish, whether that land was afterwards 
to be kept in occasional tillage or in permanent pasture, - SCO 

There is no undivided common in the parish. 

Under wood, either natural or planted, there arc - J 81 

The kind of wood planted is Scots fir, larch^ spruce, ash, elm, 
birch, oak, lime, and plane. The natural wood is, oak and 
birch) all kept properly thinned and in good order. The time 
of felling the planted wood is generally in the months of February 
and March ; and the time of cutting the natural or copse-wood, 
and all oak for peeling, is the month of May. The time for 
thinning wood is in winter. 

Rent of J sand, — The average rent of arable land per acre, is 
L. 1, 15s. The average rent of grazing oxen and yeld cows per 
annum, is L. 3 each ; of milk cows, L. 4 each ; of ewes or full- 
grown sheep, 17s. each. 

Live-stock. — No sheep are bred in the parish except pete, which 
are mostly of the Leicester and Cheviot kind. Ewes are some- 
times grazed in parks, which are of the black-faced breed. The 
cattle are generally of the Ayrshire sort, and the breed very much 
improved of late years, by giving premiums for the best bulls and 
cows, &c. Horses are mostly of the Clydesdale description, and 
the breed also much improved by premiums for the best stallions 
and brood mares. The style of farming is also greatly improved 

* The public morals and peace are at this time both suffering from what is cnlled 
Chartism. The principles of Chartists, as exhibited hen*, are infidel and anarchical. 
I'*cw, happily, countenance them. — (1841.) 



126 STIRLINGSHIKE. 

by premiums bestowed annually on the best ploughman, and for the 
best managed farm. 

Draining is much neglected in the parish, from the want of capi* 
tal among the tenants. The general duration of leases is nineteen 
years, which is considered to answer well for both proprietor and 
tenant. The state of farm-buildings and enclosures is not good. 
The principal improvements which have recently been made in the 
parish, are by the Messrs Gilmour of Knowhead, by means of 
thorough draining and trenching the most part of their lands, which 
are now worth double the rent in consequence.* 

The want of capital prevents many a tenant from liming and 
purchasing manure for his land. Were landlords to allow so much 
for every chalder of lime which the tenant laid on the farm, it 
would increase both the produce and the rent To give premiums 
for the greatest quantity of draining on a farm — for the largest 
and best field of turnip and potatoes, — for the best laid down field 
of hay, &C. would give a stimulus to agriculture of the most 
beneficial description. Sheds and straw-yards are likewise much 
wanted in this parish, to enable the farmer to feed and rear more 
stock, and so to make more manure and sow more turnips for feed- 
ing, &c. ; for the more 'manure, the more turnips ; the mor^ 
turnips, the more cattle ; and the more cattle, the more manure 
again, and so on indefinitely. 

Quarries and Mines, — The quarries are of freestone and whin- 
stone. There are several mines of iron ore in the glen of Castle*- 
rankine, and on the estates of Herbertshire and Myot-hill : but 
they are not, at present, from the want of a remunerating price, 
worked. The coal mine at present at work in the parish, is that 
of Banknock, already described. About ninety workers, young 
und old, are employed in the various operations going on there. 
Three steam-engines are constantly at work. 

Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in 
the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : 



Oats, 

Barley, 

Wheat, 


• 


9000 quarters. 
1500 
500 


Beans, 


• 


100 


Pease, 


■ 


100 


Rye-grass hay, 
Meadow hay, 
Flax, 


200 tonft. 
100 
2 



* Draining may be said to be the rage at present. All proclaim the inereiae of 
produce which follows.— (1841.) 

3 



DENNY. 127 

«yfaich| estimated at the rates formerly mentioned^ makes the value 
of the raw produce to be as follows : 

Produce of grain of all kinds whether cultivated for the food of 

manor of the domestic animals, L. 15,190 

Potatoes, turnips, cabbages, beet, and other plants cultivated in 

the fidds for food, ... 3600 

Hay, whether meadow or cultivated, . 1050 

Crops cultivated for the arts, as flax, 70 

Land in pasture, rating at L.3» 10s. per cow or full-grown ox grazed, 
or that may be grazed ibr the season, at 17s. per ewe or full grown 
sheep, pastured, or that may be pastured fur the year, 2000 

Mines, whether ooals, quarries, or metals, . . 500 

MisceUaoeous produce not enumerated, 100 



L.22,450 

Farma^t Club. — A farmer's club was recently instituted in 
the parish for encouraging agriculture in all its departments : 
it is exciting attention to ploughing, breeding, &c. 

Manufactures. — The mills on the river Carron, in the parish 
of Denny, have been already stated to be eleven. The upper- 
most are Garvald mills. There are two of them, and both are em« 
ployed in grinding charcoal for moulders, &c. Each mill has a 
miller at 12.«. per week of wages, jamA a man, horse, and cart, to 
bring charcoal to the mills, and to carry the ground produce to 
the moulders. The carters have each 12s. per week. 

The next mill down the river is Tamaree, for grinding oats, and 
preparing pot-barley. 

The next lower down is Mr R. B. Lusk*s mill at Carron Grove, 
for manufacturing millboard, and different kinds of coarse paper. 
The workers employed are, 15 men, 2 women, 2 lads, and 6 
boys ; wages are paid every fortnight, and average about L. 27 
every fortnight. The materials used are almost exclusively old tar- 
Yed ropes, of which fully one ton, on an average, is used daily. 
No rags are made use of in this manufactory. The goods ma-^ 
nufactured are almost exclusively millboards, which are used 
for the boards of books, of which from four to five tons per 
week are manufactured. Sometimes a little coarse paper is 
made, used for sheathing ships and other purposes, as also some 
large coarse millboards, used by engineers for making steam-joints 
tight The mill is lighted by gas, and the manufactured goods 
dried by steam and heated air. The excise duty paid is from 
L.300 to L. 400 every six weeks. 

Next in order, down this lovely though busy spot on Carron Banks 
from Tamareelin, is Herbertshire Mill, the property of William 
Forbes, Esq. Messrs Alexander Duncan & Sons carry on at thismill 



128 STIRLINGSHIUE. 

the manufacture of writing-paper. They employ upwards of 20 
men and 50 women. The wages are paid monthly ; on an average, 
15s. per week for the men, and 5s. for the women : besides these, 
2 men and 4 horses are constantly employed carting rags and 
coals, and carting the paper to Grangemouth for shipment to 
London. The workers principally reside in Denny and Fanker- 
ton, a small village in the parish up the Carron, and in the neigh- 
bourhood. The following is an account of the process of pa- 
per-making at Herbertshire Mill : As soon as the rags are cut 
by women across a scythe blade fixed into a table covered with 
wire-cloth, for the purpose of getting rid of the dust and sand, 
they are passed into the boiling-house, where they are boil- 
ed for twelve hours; afterwards, they are washed, and broke 
into a pulp by an iron cistern, called a paper-engine, capable of 
holding one hundred weight of rags, which are beat by a roller 
with thirty-six steel bars, which tuni on a plate in the bottom of 
the cistern. Five of these endues, of twenty steel bars, are kept 
constantly going night and day, requiring upwards of forty horse 
power to drive them and the other requisite machinery. After 
the rags are broke in and bleached for twenty-four hours, they 
are beat into pulp or stuff ready for passing on to the paper- 
machine, perhaps one of the most complete pieces of machinery ^ 
ever invented in this country ; as, in one room of 60 feet in length, 
by 25 feet wide, one may see the stuff much resembling^^hurned 
milk, passing by means of a fine web of wire-cloth fifteen feet 
long into a series of rolls used in pressing out the water, and form- 
ing the paper into a firm body. It then passes into a set of cy* 
linders heated by steam, from which it is reeled into rolls in a 
perfectly finished state, quite dry and pressed, ready for use. Six 
of the rolls are then put on to the cutting-machine, which cuts 
them into the sizes required. The cutting-machine is the inven- 
tion of Messrs Foudrinier of Hanley, Staffordshire, and patent. 
It is capable of cutting 144 sheets per minute of post or writing- 
paper. On an average, 26 cwt. of rags are cut per day in the 
rag-house, and 21 cwt. of them beat into stuff, yielding an average 
of from 1600 to 1700 lbs. per day of twenty-four hours, as all the 
machinery is kept going night and day. The duty paid every six 
weeks averages L.d20 ; the wages every month, L. 100 ; carting, 
and other carriages, L. 40. The water-wheel for driving the pa- 
per engines is 24 feet diameter, and fully 12 feet wide, all iron, 
and weighs 33 tons. Another. small wheel is used for driving the 



DENNY. 129 

paper-machine, 22 feet diameter, and 16 inches wide. The works 
are lighted with gas, and four tons of coals are used daily. 

There has been a considerable branch of the woollen trade car- 
ried on in this parish, for thirty years past 

The next three milb are at work in this manufacture. They 
are dri?en by water power, and are extensively engaged at pre- 
sent in the manufacture of tartan and fancy shawls, and lin- 
sey-woolsey stuffs^ solely upon account of Messrs Wingate and 
Son and Company of Glasgow. Mr John Wingate of this firm 
is well known in the country, as a distinguished Constitutionalist, 
and one of the munificent Church Extensionists of Glasgow. The 
quantity of wool wrought up into these goods exceeds 160,000 
lbs. annually. The various branches of the manufacture are in- 
cluded, viz. spinning of the yarns, dyeing, weaving, and the fi- 
nishing of the goods, which afford employment to nearly 200 persons 
of both sexes, young and old. The wages paid average L. 300 
per month. The water of the river Carron being uncommonly 
pare and soft, is peculiarly adapted for cleaning and dyeing, pro- 
ducing bright fancy colours, so requisite in that description of 
goods. The three mills are all on Carron, and near each other, 
two at Stoneywood, and one at Randolph Hill, — lighted by gas, 
and heated by steam. A recent cut from Tamaree lin supplies 
plentifully with water four of these mills. Before that cut was 
executed, there was no paper-mill below Tamaree lin, excepting 
Herbertshire mill, at which, according to the old practice, paper 
was made by the hand. Combinations among operative paper- 
makers were, at that time, a frequent cause of great annoyance to 
masters, and of misery to many innocent families. The improve- 
ments mentioned have put an end to combinations among pa- 
per-makers. 

A mill for chipping, rasping, and grinding dye stuffs, belonging to 
the firm of Messrs John Gray and Son, stands on the river bank a lit- 
tle below Herbertshire mill. The company have lately enlarged 
their premises by the works on Castle Rankine Glen, so that 
they now not only furnish the dye stuffs, but, by means of the ad- 
dition referred to, provide at once to manufacturers of fancy wool- 
len, cotton, and linsey-woolsey articles, the liquor for the colours 
desired. The company employs 21 hands, and pays monthly 
L.46, 12s. of wages. 

Lowest on the river in this parish, is Denny corn and pot-bar- 
ley-mill, belonging to the estate of Herbertshire, which has a large 
thirlage astricted to it. 

STIRLING. I 



130 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Distilleries, — There are two distilleries in the parish; one 
is in the close vicinity of Denny, under the firm of Macpher* 
son and Macnaughton. It consumes yearly 3500 quarters of 
malt made from barley, which produces 53,500 gallons of proof 
spirits. Two stills are used : contents of the wash still, 500 
gallons ; of the low-wines still, 400 gallons. Bear or big roakes- 
the finest spirits :. but this is not so profitable to the distiller^ 
The best season for distilling is in spring; and for fermenta-' 
tion, autumn. This distillery affords a ready market for the 
barley of the farmers in the vicinity, and of others more dis- 
tant. Such is the confidence of the farmers in the Company^ 
that it is a common practice to forward the grain at once to> 
the distillery, and, if received there, to leave the settlement of the 
price to the Company, without previous bargain. The other dis- 
tillery is at Bankier, in the southern division of the parish, on the 
Bonny, and is much the same in respect of consumption of barley^ 
and of the quantity and kind of spirits produced. 

Brick-lVorky Sfc, — A brick and tile-work has recently been set 
agoing in this district of the parish, which will be a great accom* 
modation to the parish and neighbourhood. 

About a mile and a half east, on the lands of Knowhead, a spade> 
manufactory, famed for the excellence of the article manufacture 
ed, has been erected. An adjoining morass furnishes water- 
power for working the ponderous hammer by which the materials 
for spades are consolidated, and afterwards beaten into plates. 
The wooden handles for the spades are likewise prepared at the 
mill ; and the goods sent to the market, fit for immediate use. 

It remains only to notice, that there are two extensive ca- 
lico-printing establishments in the immediate vicinity of the 
town of Denny, although locally in the parish of Dunipace, of 
whose labourers three-fourths and upwards have their habitations 
and families in the town of Denny. The labourers, old and young, 
employed at these printfields, amount, on an average, to 1000, 
three-fourths of whose monthly wages amount, on an average, to 
L.1200. On the whole, then, it appears, that there are about 
1100 individuals of the parochial population who are workers at 
manufactories, the average produce of whose monthly wages is 
L.1, 13s. to each individual, of whom some receive L. 8 per month, 
and others 8s. per month. 

The whole machinery of the mills enumerated, and of all the 
manufactories west from the junction of Bonny with Carron, (which 



DENNY. 131 

takes place about two miles east from Denny,) were driven, until 
within these few years, by Carron water alone. The supply of Car- 
ron, however, from agricultural improvements going on in the high 
grounds through which the river flows, was unsteady ; and, within 
these five or six years, the proprietors of the mills upon its banks, 
in order to obtain a fuller supply of water-power, were induced to 
form themselves into a society, and, by subscription, produced 
funds to erect an embankment for a reservoir upon the EarPs-burn, 
about nine miles above Denny. The artificial lake thus erected, 
covers an extent of nearly 60 acres. The embankment is 22 feet 
in height. The cost of the whole has fallen little short of L. 2000, 
jtfid was borne by a few individuals. On the 24th of October 1839, 
after a great fall of rain, the embankment gave way. Much in- 
jury was done, by the resistless torrent, to property along the whole 
eourse of the Carron downwards. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

MarkeUTowns. — Denny is not a market-town. Arrangements 
were made, some twenty years ago, to have it erected into a mnr- 
ket-town, by the Honourable Charles Elphinstone Fleming of Cum - 
bemauld. But the diflerent dealers were not friendly to the propo- 
sal, and preferred petitioning for a baron bailie, before whom they 
might prosecute for payment of their accounts. The bailie was 
obtained, and has power to give judgment, and enforce payment 
to the extent of L. 2. 

Some idea of the business done in Denny, may be formed from 
tlie following statement, made from actual enumeration : — There 
are 21 houses and grocery shops licensed to sell, beside gro- 
ceries, ale and spirits, — of these 19 sell spirits over the counter, 
the remaining 2 are common whisky-shops ; 3 stationers ; 4 bak- 
ers ; 1 pastry-shop; 4 butchers; 2 excise-officers; 7 wrigbts; 
3 smithies ; 4 medical practitioners ; 4 schoolmasters ; 1 writer ; 
2 ministers of the Gospel; 4 haberdashers and cloth shops; 10 
shoemakers ; 1 tinsmith ; 1 gas manufactory*; 2 coopers ; 5 tailors, 
two of whom are clothiers ; 1 messenger ; 1 dame's school. 

Anintelligent member of the Total Abstinence Society has hand- 
ed me a note, which shows what becomes of a great part of the 
wages of labourers in this parish : '^ In Denny village, and that part 
of Deimy on the north of Carron, and between Denny anil 
Fankerton, from October 1835 to October 1836, there .were 
sold by the retaileft of spirits, 10,600 gallons of spirits, at a cost 



132 STIULINGSHlRli:. 

to the inhabitants of this small district of upwards of L. 4300, — be- 
sides the value of the time lost while drinking, and in consequence 
of drinking, which I am sure would be underrated at L«dOO more. 
This quantity of spirits, I understand, would consume nearly 700 
bolls of barley." Add to this enormous amount, the quantity of 
spirits sold on the southern side of the parochial ridge, and it will 
appear that there are'no less than L. 7000 annually spent in this 
parish, in the purchase of spirituous liquors ; a sum nearly equal 
to the rental of the whole parish. ^* How easy a matter it would 
be," observes the gentleman referred to, y for ihe working clas- 
ses to make grain cheap, without any alteration of the Com Laws, 
and to make themselves most comfortable, without any reduction 
of taxation." 

Villages, — There are four villages in the parish, — Denny, Hags, 
Fankerton, and Loanhead. From Broomage toll-bar to where 
the road strikes off right and left near Hags to Glasgow, for the 
space of a mile, the houses are so thickly planted as to promise to 
become, in the course of twenty or thirty years, one continuous 
street. 

There are about 190 parliamentary voters in this parish. 
There is one post-office, the average revenue of which is an- 
nually about L. 300. The length of turnpike roads in the parish 
is ten miles and upwards. In winter, the number of public car- 
riages which pass and repass daily through the parish, is 22. The 
bridges and fences within the parish are kept in good order. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands west from the 
old village of Denny. Its situation is sufficiently convenient for 
the parishioners on the north side of the parochial ridge; but 
not so for the inhabitants of Hags and Bankier. It was built in 
1813, and cleaned and beautified internally, in 1838, by the vo- 
luntary contributions of the people, and is at present in good and 
comfortable repair. It contains 767 sittings, at eighteen inches 
for each sitter. On sacramental occasions, there may be 900 
persons within its walls. Ordinary Sabbath days' attendance 560. 
Communicants, on an average, 512. There are seven free sittings 
for the poor. The minister, elders, and schoolmaster have each 
separate accommodation ; and their sittings, amount to 28. The 
manse was built in 1803, and is in good repair and comfortable. 
The glebe consists of four arable acres, worth L.10 ; and half an 
acre for manse, offices, and garden. The stipend is 16 chalders. 



DENNY. 133 

ooe-balf meal, the other half barley. L. 10 are allowed for com- 
tDunion elements.* 

There are two Dissenting chapels in the parish, both now belonging 
to the United Secession Church. The one at Denny Loanhead is 
among the oldest and strongest, in point of wealth, in the Seces- 
sion Church. When the Royal Commissioners for Religious In- 
struction were here on 27th February 1838^ the minister of that 
eharch stated that the erection took place in 1738, and that the 
6rst minister of it was ordained in 1751. There was a dispute, 
as before noticed, in the parish, after Mr Watson's death in 173d« 
about his successor. The cruel operation of patronage was then 
beginning to be felt ; and some of the people, by proceedings that 
took place during the vacancy, were reluctantly constrained to se- 
cede. Another dispute arose after Mr Turnbull's death in 1765, 
—when, at length, the minister most unacceptable to the pa- 
rishioners was intruded upon them, and then another party be- 
took themselves to Loanhead. Since that time, the congregation 
there has not been augmented by any violent proceedings on the 
part of the Assembly. The minister farther stated before the 
Commissioners, that it is increasing but slowly; that the com- 
municants are on an average 512 ; and that of the adherents to 
the congregation, 10 were resident in St Ninian's, 67 in Duni- 
pace, and 250 in Falkirk, — in all, 357 beyond the bounds of the 
parish. His stipend, as understood to be reported to the Royal 
Commissioners, is, besides a manse and garden, L. 170, and L. 10 
for the expense of two sacraments annually, and L.2 for attend- 
ance at each synod. He said he had no bond or security for its 
payment His church was stated to have 731 sittings, and the 
average number of regular attendants to be 560. 

The other Dissenting chapel is in the town of Denny. It was 
originally Burgher, as the other was Antiburgher; and both are 
now of the United Secession. It was established in 1797, when Mr 
Fergus, the parochial minister, was incapacitated for duty by old 
age. This chapel has about 500 sittings, as is supposed. The con- 

* 5th February 1840. The Court of Teinds was pleased to augment the stipend 
to 19 chalders, one-half meal, and the other half barley, and the sum fur commu- 
nion elements to L. 15 per annum. 

A new church at Hags was opened for public worship on 19th July 1840. On 
loth Sepftoiber 1840, the Rev. Colin M^Culloch was, without one dissenting voice, 
chosen minister, and, on 14th January 1841, he was ordained pastor of the parish, 
gatoad tplrituaiia, of Hags. The cliurch has nearly 700 sittings and 5j0 Sitbbath oc« 
rupants. 



134 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

gregation, through no fault of the minister, who is the first that 
was placed in it, has fallen off to about 200 individuals in ordinary 
attendance on Sabbath. The communicants, he was understood* 
to say to the Royal Commissioners, were once 820, but are now 
not more than 271. His stipend is L. 100 per annum. He has 
no bond or security for its payment. He has a manse, a garden, 
and small glebe. 

I'here are not four Episcopalians in the parish : but the Ro- 
man Catholics may amount to 50, nearly all Irish. 

There is a Bible Society connected with the Established Church, 
for which there is annually collected and subscribed about L. 7. 
The four schemes of the General Assembly, and the new object 
for promoting the restoration of Israel to the Christian Church, 
are all less or more supported by the people of the Establishment. 
The Dissenting brethren do much in the way of similar works in 
their congregations ; in particular, the contributions to Christian 
objects by the congregation at Loanhead, are stated to be large 
and exemplary. The parochial contributions for these objects 
may be estimated at L. 80 annually. The church door collec- 
tions are not more than one-fourth of this sum. 

Ministers of the Parish of Denny since the Revolution 1688. * — 
Thomas Watson ; ordination, time unknown ; death, March 
1733. William Bennet,t 22d August 1738; translated to Dud- 
dingston. Edward Anderson, 23d September 1747 ; died April 
1749. James TurnbuU, 14lh August 1750 ; died 20lh Decern- 

• Communicated by the Rev. Alexander Lcitch, Clerk of the Presbytery of Stir- 
ling. 

t Probably ; for all the letters on the tombstone cannot be traced. 

t The parish was in a state of disquietude and dissatisfaction, during the five years 
which intervened between Mr Watson's death and the induction of Mr Bennet. A 
presentation was issued by the Crown in favour of Mr James Stirling, and another 
by Herbertshire ; but the majority of the parish were in favour of a Mr Penman. 
The great objection against Mr Stirling was his acceptance of a prewntation. This 
objection seems to have weighed very much with the Presbytery, which, at that 
time, was decidedly of an anti-patronage character. Once, the Presl)ytcry refused, 
at the order of tlio Commission, to take Mr Stirling on trials fur ordination, and 
^ twice thereafter, the ord«»r of the Assembly itself to the same efl'ect. For the 
third time, in 1737, the Assembly issued its order toctfcct the settlement before Sep- 
tember, that year ; and in case of its not being done by that time, the synod of Penh 
and Stirling, at its meeting in October, were to take up the case, and to proceed with 
the settlement ; and in case of (heir not doing so within a given time, the Assembly 
appointed a commission to accomplish it before their next meeting. Even this pe- 
remptory order, the 1 resbytery found means of evading. What became of Mr Stir- 
ling afterwards, docs not appear from the record. Some time thereafter, a i>etitioii is 
presented to the Presbytery, to allow certain probationers therein named, to preach 
as candidates. Mr William Ijcniiet, one of thcbc, was chosen and ordained 2iM 
August 17(38. 



DENNY. 135 

ber 1765. Tliomas Fergus,* 22d June 1769; died '25th January 
1601. John Dempster,! 25th April 180a 

Education. — The total number of schools in the parish is nine. 
There is one parochial school ; one partially endowed ; the rest are 
all unendowed. Besides these nine, there is one dame's school 
for reading, sewing, &c. carefully taught. 

The parochial teacher has all the legal accommodations. His 
salary is L.d4, 4s. 4^d. 

There are few of the young between six and fifteen years of age 
who cannot read a little. The schools are quite numerous enough, 
and sometimes injurious to each other. Two qualified and en- 
dowed teachers for the town, and three for the other parts of the 
parish, qualified and endowed also, would be sufficient, and might 
do more good than is done by all the ten at present. 

The people are partially alive to the benefits of education ; but 
the concern of parents for the education of their offspring seems 
on tbedecline« 

lAterature. — There is one parochial library in Denny, contain- 
ing at present 1100 volumes. Entry-money as members, L. I, 
Is., — and Is. every six months afterwards. It was instituted in 
1806. Books are lent to non subscribers at the rate of Is. 6d. 
per quarter. There is also a Denny Religious Library. Number 
of volumes about 400; entry-money, Is.; out reader?, 6d. per 
month; — and Denny Loanhead Congregational Library, instituted 
in 1831; numberof volumes nearly 500; dues, Is. Cd. per quar- 
ter. 

There have been several public reading-rooms, some for per- 
sons who were not artisans, and others for artisans; but, from dif- 
ferent causes, they have failed, and at present there are none. 

Societies, — The following are the names of the societies in Denny, 
besides those already mentioned : Denovan Printfield Friendly So- 
ciety, instituted 1802 ; Herbertshire Printfield Friendly Society, 
1816; Herbertshire and Denovan Friendly Society, 1817; D. L. St 
Andrew's Lodge, 1825; Hags Friendly Society, 1830 ; Banknock 
Friendly Society, 1834; Denny Ploughman's Society, 1834; 
Denny Horticultural Society, 183(5; Denny and Dunipace Total 

• After Mr Turnbuirs death, there was a dispute about the presentation, between 
the Crown and Herbert .hire. Mr Fergus was the Crown presentee. 

f Mr Fergus having beeomc, through the infirmities of age, unable for his pub- 
lic duty, agreed to have an assistant and successor. Through the influence of Wil- 
liam Morehead, Esq. of Herbertshiie, the Crown consented to give the parish a leet of 
five. Mr Dein,ster was one of the leet, and on the '21th July 1799, was chosen una- 
nimously, with the exception of one voice, assistant nnd successor to Mr Fergus. 



136 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Abstinence Society, 1837; Denny and Dunipace Funeral So- 
ciety, 1837; Denny Farmer's Society, 1838; Denny and Duni- 
pace Mutual Instruction Society, 1838; Independent Order of 
Odd Fellows Friendly Society, 1838. 

Saving f Dank. — There was an attempt made, in 1825, to set 
on foot a savings bank, which failed. Mr Gray, the Actuary of 
the Glasgow Sayings Bank, and other benevolent individuals, re- 
newed the attempt in 1837. There is a fear of consequences, 
if masters should know what gains their servants make. It failed 
also. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial relief is 32. The average amount allotted to 
each per month, 5s. 9d The average annual amount of contri* 
butions for their relief, collected at church doors, L.14, 5s. 7d. ; 
assessment, L.72. No other regular mode of procuring fiinds. 

Every winter, however, some benevolent persons give donations 
of coals, which the farmers lay down gratis at the doors of the 
poor. L.7 or L.8 per annum, on an average, used to be added to 
the poor's funds, by mortcloth dues. But there is hardly ever now 
a mortcloth put over the coffin. 

One meets now and then with persons who, in the old Scottish 
spirit, refuse aid from the poor's funds. In general, however, they 
are abundantly clamorous. 

When the new church came to be used as a place of worship 
in 1814, a dispute among the heritors arose as to the division 
of the sittings. This suit continued five years. Never was 
the parish happier than during these five years, and never 
was the church better or more regularly attended, and never 
were the collections at the church door more liberal. The peo- 
ple paid no seat rents, and they poured their money into the 
church plate ;^L.l, 6s. and L.1, 10s. were not uncommon collec- 
tions in these days, on ordinary Sabbath days. The average of 
each of the fifty-two Sabbaths of the year, was L.I, 2s. The plea 
was ended, and the heritors demanded seat rents. The people 
considered this unreasonable : but, rather than leave the Establish- 
ment, they came to an understanding that they would pay seat 
rents, but withhold their contributions at the church door. There 
was no assessment for the poor, at that time. The collections 
began gradually to diminish. Offence was taken at the session 
having sent a lunatic to the Glasgow Asylum. The lunatic was 
recalled ami given to his relations. Objections were then taken to 



DENNY. 137 

the payment of the wages o( teachers for instructing poor scho* 
larsy-^the payment of the presbytery and synod clerks, of the 
beadles of those courts, and of the precentor and parish beadle : 
all these payments were resisted. The cleaning of the church 
was considered an expense, that the heritors had nothing to do 
with. The session were prevented advancing money for any of 
tbese purposes, unless at their own risk, and the aliment of the 
poor woman that cleaned the church, was stopped. The ses- 
sion were even threatened with a prosecution, to cause them re- 
fund the outlays which had taken place ; but happily, at every 
annual settlement of accounts in presence of the heritors, the ac- 
counts had b.een docqueted as approved. The session, however, 
were prohibited making any of these payments in future, out of 
the poor's funds. In these circumstances, the elders resolved no 
more to collect. The funds were wholly handed over to the 
heritors, who have them still in their hands, to the great relief of 
the minister and elders. The procedure of the heritors was not 
approved by others, and the collections continued to decline. For 
a while, the heritors, under the excitement of novelty, stood at the 
collection plates : but at length they have, almost without excep- 
tion, given up collecting : and the grave-digger, the servant of 
the heritors, sits commonly at the plate, and receives, it is said. 
Is. per day, for the discharge of this duty. While the session took 
charge of the poor's funds, the expense to the heritors was only 
L.1, Is. per annum, as an acknowledgement to the session-clerk 
for acting as treasurer, beside his regular salary of L. 2, 2s. per 
annum, for discharging the duties of session-clerk. The state of 
matters now is instructive. The session did not interfere, after 
their surrender of the funds, to discourage the collections, except 
that they withheld their own contributions, understanding that 
the collections were to be employed in the prosecution against 
themselves. Instead of L. 70 per annum of collections at the 
church doors, there is now only L. 14, if so much.* Instead of 
L. 1, Is. to the treasurer, a writer in Denny is paid L. 10 per an- 
num for being treasurer and clerk, and the session-clerk's salary 
of L. 2, 2s. is continued, as it must be, by law. Instead of there 
being no regular assessment, there is now a regular assessment 
of L. 72 per annum, which threatens to rise, notwithstanding all 
possible care; and, moreover, there are hardly any seat-rents col- 

• The collections for eight weeks lately were reported to be 2s. every Sabbath — 
(1841.) 



138 STIttLlNGSHIKE. 

lected, for the people are utterly averse to the payment of such an 
impost. It is due to the memory of one of the kindest and most 
gentlemanly of characters, the late William Morehead,. Esq. of 
Herbertshire, to say, that he had no hand in the ruinous proceed- 
ings which have been mentioned ; and his successor, the present 
chief heritor, is far above such doings. 

Fairs. — There are two fairs held annually in the parish, — one 
about Whitsunday, and the other about Martuimas. 

Fuel — The fuel is chiefly coal from Banknock, and the neigh- 
bouring coal-pits. 

Drawn up February 1839. 
Revised April 1841. 



PARISH OF KILSYTH. 

PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, AND SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. WILLIAM BURNS, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Anqently, Monaehrugli was the name of this parish, 
supposed to be a compound o(Monaugh^\i\\\yy and Ehrugh^ streams; 
and the name is very descriptive of the eastern district of this parish, 
which, till 1649, constituted the whole parish. At that period, what 
is called the West Barony was disjoined from Campsie, and added 
to Moniabrughj* or the East Barony, which continued to be the name 
of the parish till about a hundred years ago, when the whole pa- 
rish was more usually designated Kilsyth. The Rev. James Robe, 
who was ordained minister of Kilsyth in the year 1713, and wrote 
his " Narrative"in 1743, speaks of the parish " Kilsyth, till 
lately called Moniabroch." The oldest set of tokens, so late as 
the year 1755, have MK stamped upon them, doubtless " Moni- 
brugh Kirk ;" and the communion cups, 1731, are marked " For 
the Kirk of Monaebrugh." Thus, in solemn affairs, the older name 
was longer retained than in common usage. The estate of Living- 
stone, Viscount of Kilsyth, the great proprietor of the district, 
when the West and East Baronies were both included in the same 
parish, naturally gave name to the parish. I conjecture that the name 

* The spelling in the records ib alwnys Moniabrugh. 



KILSYTH. 139 

Monibrugh, originally applied to the kirk, which was anciently 
on a part of the Barwood, where the burn of Abroch rises, and 
which well corresponds to the description implied by the name ; 
and having been used to designate the kirk, would very naturally be 
applied to the whole parish, till the addition from Campsie of a va- 
luable part of the estate of Kilsyth, gave occasion to the new name. 

With regard to the etymology of Kilsyth, the first syllable is 
familiar to all ; the second, syth^ is somewhat uncertain. It is either 
the name of one of the saints of the Romish calendar, or derived 
from sythiUf* which signifies peace. In the West Barony, near a 
place called Chapel-green, there was a tumulus, in which an um 
and ashes were found ; and there is a tradition, that this cairn was 
erected over the dead slain in a battle betwixt the natives and the 
Komans, which was the forerunner of a peace. 

Extent and Boundaries, — In form, the parish approaches to 
an irregular oblong; running in length along the north high- 
road from Edinburgh to Glasgow 7 miles. The mean breadth 
is fully one-half of its length. It contains nearly 24 miles square. 
The rivers Carron on the north ; and Kelvin running west, 
and Bonnybum running east, on the south ; Inchwood burn 
on the west ; and the Bushburn, on the east, — form the natu- 
ral boundaries of the parish. It lies contiguous to St Ninians 
and Fintray, on the north ; to Cumbernauld and Kirkintilloch, on 
the south ; to Denny, on the east ; and Campsie, on the west. 
The Kelvin, which rises at Kelvinhead, near Ruchill, three miles 
east from the town of Kilsyth, and which runs, or rather creeps, 
nearly parallel to the great canal, and very near it, divides the 
parish from Cumbernauld and Kirkintilloch, and from the county 
of Dumbarton. The whole of Kilsyth parish is situated north of the 
Kelvin, with the exception of the two houses at the jetty to the south 
of Kelvinhead, which, though beyond Kelvin as it now runs, are con- 
sidered as in Cumbernauld, as to payment of road money, &c. but 
not ecclesiastically. The bouses at Craigmarloch are in Cumber- 
nauld, although the westernmost house is situated where the Kelvin 
previously flowed. With the above exception, the parish of Kil- 
syth does not touch the canal, although very near in its approaches 
to it. 

Topographical Appearances, — The greater part, excepting the 
hill and moorland district to the north, exhibits very strikingly the 

• See Niiumo's History of Stirlingshire. 



140 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

appearance of a considerably extended but narrow strath, whicla 
might be named Strath Kelvin ; insomuch that (as Dr Rennie 
described in the last Statistical Account), " at one point it seems 
to be part of a great ditch intersecting the kingdom, terminatiiig 
at the Frith of Forth on the east, and at the Clyde on the west, 
being nearly equidistant from either.** About two miles from the 
east end of the parish, is Rugh-hill, the highest part of the strath 
whence the Kelvin runs west, and the Auchincloch Bum and 
Bonny Water run east. The Dullatur Bog is almost on a level 
with the canal, which cuts it into almost equal parts, about 160 
feet above the level of the Forth at Grangemouth. The names 
of places, in the direction westward, clearly indicate their former 
state of partial immersion ; e. g* Bog-side, Bog-house, Gavalf 
Inch- wood, Netherinch, Inchterff, Inchbelly, Auchinvoll. The 
north*>eastem part of the parish abounds in small knolls of a very 
picturesque description, the soil generally light and grayelly; 
whereas that of the western is of a deep moss and loamy descrip- 
tion, till it rises towards the north, which presents a southerly ex- 
posure, affording excellent green pasturage. The Kilsyth hills 
form part of that moderately elevated ridge which begins at Green- 
ock, running through Kilpatrick, Baldernock, Campsie, Kilsytb^ 
and Denny, and thus intersects the kingdom from west to east 
betwixt the two friths of Clyde and Forth. None of these hills 
rise to a height which can be termed majestic ; yet the Meikleben, 
which seems to unite the Campsie and Kilsyth hills, is 1500 feet 
above the sea, — a noble-looking hill, the top of which is seen 
from a great distance in the direction of Lanark, and forms a 
striking land-mark from the Frith of Forth. The Garrel Hill 
and Tomtain, or Lairdshill, in this parish, are 1300 feet in height. 
From the summit of the latter, a quarter of a mile to the west of 
Bardowie, on the Takmadoon road (Touchmadam, supposed), 
there is one of the most extensive and varied views in the kingdom. 
Part of at least fourteen counties can be seen from it. To the 
south, an extensive plain stretches out to the naked eye to Broad- 
lawhill, in the parish of Tweedsmuir, Peebles-shire ; to the west, 
as far as Goatsfell, in Arran ; to the east, to the Pentland and 
Lammermuir Hills ; to the north-east, the Lomonds, in Fife, are 
seen ; while the prospect to the north presents an endless succes- 
sion of hills upon hills. The southern side of the strath is a more 
gentle rising ground, in the direction of Graham's Dike, by Cal- 

4 



KILSYTH. 141 

lendar woods, Cumbernauld, Dykehead, Craigmarloch, Croyhill, 
Bar, and Strowanhill. 

MtU&rohgy. — As the parish lies along the line of hills which 
reaches the Atlantic to the west, showers come chiefly from 
that quarter, especially when the winds are westerly, which they 
are a considerable part of the year. The air is generally pure 
and salubrious. The inhabitants of the country part of the 
parish, with the exception of the miners, are generally healthy, 
and arrive at considerable longevity. One man, Robert Miller, 
died two years ago, at the age of 101, and had lived for the most 
part in this parish, and in the married state, (his wife dying at 
the age of 86,) for sixty-four years. There are several persons 
of both sex€t3 fourscore and upwards. The town of Kilsyth is 
fisivourably situated for health, yet few of the inhabitants, (chiefly 
weavers,) arrive at old age. 

Mr Robe (Narrative) records, that, in the year 1733, on the 27th 
of June, a very remarkable thunder storm took place. The morn* 
ing was fair, the sky clear, the sun bright. About eleven a. m. 
a gleamy kind of darkness overspread the sky ; a water-spout seems 
to have fallen ; numberless torrents poured from the hills, sweep- 
ing houses, bridges, com, and cattle all before them. Several 
acres in the valley were covered with stones of all sizes, from 20 
tons to small gravel ; in some places, from 4 to 6 feet deep. In 
the year 1832, June 14th, we were visited with a similar water- 
spout and thunder storm, with hail, and torrents of rain. For 
two hours, the storm was truly terrific, and threatened awful de- 
vastation. 

Geology — Soi/.— The East Barony and the West, into which divi- 
sions the parish has been distinguished since 1649, are remarkably 
unlike each other. The former consists, for the most part, of a 
great number of rising grounds in the strath, of a gravelly descrip- 
tion. Although the soil is, for the most part, light, it is productive, 
and easily cultivated. Immediately around Kelvinhead, east and 
south, the soil is of considerable depth, of a black loam, bearing 
excellent crops. Proceeding westerly by Gateside, Shawend, 
Woodend, Barr, and the glebe, it is much shallower, a light sharp 
soil lying generally upon blue whin. The valley west of the town, 
comprising also about half-a-mile to the east of it, is the richest 
soil in the parish, particularly the fields along the Garrel-bum to 
the north of the church, and the farm of Boghouse, and part of 
Gaval along Kelvinside, which yield abundant crops of all de- 



142 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

scriptionS) being much of the nature of carse land. On the whole, 
the lit^ht gravelly soil prevails^ and, consequently, it is much better 
adapted to the production of barley and green crop, than for 
wheat or beans, &c. 

In the East Barony, there is a considerableline of ironstone, con- 
sisting of strata from four to fourteen inches thick, separated from 
each other by seams of clay or dalk, and subdivided by perpendi- 
cular fissures into small square wedges from six inches to two feet, 
which has been worked by the Carron Company for a considera- 
ble time, and to whom the estate of Tomrawer, to the east of the 
village of Banton, belongs, containing two tolerably good arable 
farms. In the northern hilly part of both baronies, there are seams 
of excellent coal at no great depth, the western approaching to the 
nature of the best Newcastle coal, the eastern of a harder quality, 
but also valuable, and now more difficult to work. 

The Garrel glen freestone quarry is of excellent quality, easily 
wrought, of a fine whitish colour, and durable ; not much inferior 
to the famous Possil quarry near Glasgow. The water which flows 
through this romantic glen, possesses the remarkable quality of 
forming curious vegetable impressions upon the surface of freestone 
pillars, vulgarly called coal-stalks, rising from the seam of coal like 
trees from the surface of the earth. They have a close resem- 
blance to petrifactions ; and yet the substance is just freestone si- 
milar to that of the surrounding rock. They, in some instances^ 
branch out into regular ramifications at top, as they almost always 
do at bottom ; and these do most strikingly resemble trees of the 
hawthorn, or elm species. Specimens are very easily met with. 
In the garden of Colzium, and in the garden belonging to the 
manse, there are to be seen, brought from the Garrel glen, remar- 
kably good specimens of this curious incrustation or formation : 
nay, so commonly are they to be met with, that, in several gardens 
about the village, we find them set up by way of ornament. 

For the following very particular and accurate account of the 
soil, and of the lime and ironstone of the parish, I am indebted 
to the late Mr John Rennie, farmer at Currvmire. 

The best of the soil is alluvial, which has been carried down 
by the mountain stream, (particularly in 1783, as before noticed ;) 
it is incumbent upon moss, mud, or clay ; it has been much improv- 
ed, and is capable of still greater improvement by drainage, which, 
being encouraged by the proprietor, will make the Vale of Kilsyth 



KILSYTH. 143 

equal to the richest in Scotland. Draining is still in its infancy : 
Its advantages, however, are already seen. 

The soil of the parish should be classed into three kinds, be- 
sides the hill pasture, viz. 1, The rich alluvial soil lying in the 
lower part of the strath, interspersed with the moss of Dullatur 
bog ; red moss and Inchterif moss, which form but a very minute 
portion of the strath, not exceeding 100 acres, while the rich al- 
luvial part of the strath in the parish is about from 1200 to 1500 
acres, or nearly one-third of the arable lands of the parish. 2. 
The gravelly and sandy strath, running the whole length of the 
parish, along the edge of the above described rich alluvial soil, 
and, betwixt that and the higher arable land ; this gravelly sandy 
strath is bounded on its north edge, by a large dike or break in the' 
strata. 3. The tilly or clayey strath, running along the northern 
boundary of the gravelly and sandy, and between that and the hill* 
pasture. This is the coal district of the parish, and, of course, the 
worst and most unproductive land of the parish, comprehending per- 
haps three-fifths of the arable lands of the whole parish : the soil is 
tilly, close-bottomed, and not alluminous, consequently very infe- 
rior. 4. The hill pasture and grass farms are covered with fine rich 
pasturage for cattle and sheep, to the summit of the hills. 

Lime. — The lime at the west side in the West Barony, de- 
serves the encomium bestowed on it in the last Account. About 
1806, the late Mr Neilson became the tenant of all the coal 
and lime on the estate of Kilsyth, belonging to Sir Charles, now 
Sir Archibald Edmonston. He extended and improved the lime- 
workings, and sold during his lifetime, at an average, nearly to 
the amount of L.2000 yearly, to the surrounding country. At his 
death (1819), the work began to fall off. At present, there is not 
one-twentieth part of the quantity sold at these works. The chief 
reason is, that the present tenant, Mr James Marshall, directs his 
capital to the coal trade, which is still more important and pro- 
fitable. The working of lime at Berryhill is entirely abandoned. 

There are other posts of limestone in the same line, which have 
never been wrought, except a small quantity by Mr Bow of Auchin- 
riboch, for his own use. There is another known post of good lime, 
farther down the hill at Riskend, dipping towards the above lands, 
never yet wrought In 1825, the present proprietor of Kilsyth 
estate caused the mines at Corrie to be opened. As far as could 
be discovered, the veins had been exhausted. Every mine and 
shaft was cleared out, which had formerly been opened. From the 



144 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

analysis made, there is no doubt that copper exists in these veins> 
but only in small quantity. The heavy spar veins seem to be su- 
perficial ; and, until more expensive operations are made, it re- 
mains uncertain whether there exist any metal of value in this range 
of hills. It is, however, certain that veins of heavy spar exist, seen 
at the surface, in various parts of these hills. The blocks of jas- 
per in the Hailstone Burn, above Corrie, are still found, as men- 
tioned in last Account ; but nothing has been done to turn them 
to account 

Ironstone. — The Carron Company have continued to work the 
ironstone at Banton, to much the same extent as stated in the last 
Account (about 5000 tons per annum ; number of miners betwixt 
50 and 60.) The ironstone on Mr Cadell's lands has been almort 
wrought out. The operations of the Company are now chiefly oq 
their own lands, where they have fourteen different 
bands of ironstone, wrought at various depths. Some of 
seams are not of good quality, and, therefore^ are not wrought y 
others are excellent. They vary in thickness from six to eighteea 
inches. Besides these, there is a band about thirty fathom^ ^Gafr* 
led the fine stone, which is of superior quality and thickness) little 
of it, however, can be reached, as it is under water. The saine> 
seam of ironstone extends to the lands of Tomphin, where it has 
never been wrought. Large fields of ironstone are known to exbt 
over the West Barony ; but, excepting a partial working of a band 
or two at West-side, underlying the limestone a few fathoms, none 
have ever been wrought. 

Coa&.-»Great part of the parish is a coal-field : but it is not 
of so much value as might be anticipated, from the broken nature 
of the strata, by dikes and hitches, which are everywhere met with. 
The principal dike is known to run into the River Forth near 
Airth, and commences in this parish at Tomphin. This dike varies 
both in material and thickness. It is, at some places, thirty feet 
thick, at others double that number of yards. At some places, it 
consists of the hardest basalts, at others the softest blaes, and at 
others a mass of freestone debris, or solid freestone, or rotten whin- 
stone, interspersed with round balls, &c. &c It sends off, and re- 
ceives many branches in its course within the parish. The seams 
are various, and of very different quality. The Balcastle coal is 
admirable, much of the nature of the best English coal. In some 
pits lately opened near to Chapel-green, the coal was at first of a 
very inferior quality, but now it is good. The coal in the east is. 



KILSYTH. 14.^ 

V\ioiigb harder^ yel valuable, and adapted for the oven and smith's 
furnace or forge. A great proportion of the coal at Balcastleand 
in the West Barony generally, is charred, and carried away for fur- 
naces. 

Hydrography. — The two rivers which form the boundaries of 
the parish on the north and south, arc the Carron and tlie Kel- 
vin. The former, as its name imports, is a winding stream, espe- 
cially so far as it bounds this parish. The bonnv links of Car- 
ron water are celebrated. For three miles, it runs in a somewhat 
slow and serpentine course, through an extensive meadow. It 
is a delightful trouting stream, and is much frequented by anglers, 

'for many miles round. 

The Kelvin, taking its rise near the House of Kelvinhead, on 
the landof Ruchill, in a kind of marsh, descends in a very small rill 
to the low ground on the south, near to the great canal, where it 
soon receives an accession from a part of Shawend burn, and, 
farther west, from the Garrel and Ebrcch. It moves slowly 
ihrough the valley westward, ui)wards of four miles in this parish. 
At Inchhelly, where it leaves us, it becomes a beautiful stream ; its 
banks f^reen, smooth, and wooded. Till the year 1 792, it was chok- 
ed up with flags, rushes, and water-lilies, frequently overilowing the 
adjacent valley, and giving it the appearance of a great lake. The 
late Sir Archibald Edmonstone, Bart, of Duntreath, grandfather 
to the present proprietor of the same name, who purchased the es- 
tate of Kilsyth in 1784, proprietor of the lands to the north of the 
Kelvin for about four miles, projected and carried into effect a 
great improvement, under the inspection, and according to the plan, 
of Robert Whitworth, engineer, — by straightening, deepening, and 
embanking, as described in the former Account. The sloping 
green bank, with its skirting of wood near InchteriTand Inchbelly, 
was formed under the eye, and at the expense of the late Captain 
Lennox of Woodhead. It must be acknowledged that the river, 
so far as this parish can claim it, is the reverse of picturesque, 
having the appearance of a small c^al ; but the useful must here 
be regarded as the beautiful, or, at any rate, as more than an equi- 
valent As the Kelvin proceeds and approaches Glasgow, it be- 
comes a fine stream ; the aqueduct over it, and the dock where the 
canal branches off to Bowling Bay, have given it a celebrity, of 
which, at its rise, and while it bounds this parish, it gave no pro- 
mise. Both our rivers, Carron and Kelvin, are known to song, 

STIRLING. K 



14G STIHLINGSHIKK. 

but Still better known to commerce. Who has not heard of C'Ur- 
ron Works and Kelvin Dock ? 

There are several rivulets and burns in this parish. The most 
remarkable is the Garrel, as its name denotes, a rough, brawling 
stream. It rises on the Garrel Hill, one of the Kilsyth range ; 
its whole course, till it runs into the Kelvin, is above three miles. 
In a mile and a-half it falls 1000 feet, having a great number of 
cataracts in its course. The narrow chasms worn by its rapid 
and powerful stream in winter, are singularly romantic, and well 
repay the fatigue and occasional wetting of the curious visitor. 
The course or bed of the Garrel burn, below the Garrel Mill, is, 
for the most part, dry, its waters being carried off to the Town- 
head Loch, to the east of Colzium, excepting in a spate, when it 
comes down with great fury. When it arrives at the Burn Green, 
near the town of Kilsyth, it is joined and replenished by the small 
burn of Ebroch, which rises at the foot of the Barwood, about one 
mile east, and then joins the Kelvin, after flowing half a mile iii 
the valley westward. 

The whole of the low ground was, at one period, a loch or mo- 
rass ; but now, we have only one, the Townhead Liocb, which is 
chiefly artificial, and a reservoir for supplying the canal. It is of 
an oval form, full three-quarters of a mile long, and from one- 
quarter to half a mile broad. It covers seventy-five acres imperiaK 
The country round it, especially on the north, is very rugged and 
barren. A few firs are planted at the east end, and of late, a consi- 
derable plantation of trees has been formed at the west ei^d. The 
old trees near the house of Mr Marshall of Townhead, with the 
island near the south-west end, give the whole the semblance of a 
natural sheet of water of <freat bcaulv. The banks have been 
raised, and the sluices, formerly of mason-work, are now of cast or 
malleable iron. A couple of swans were, a few years ago, brought 
to this loch; but thev soon became tired of their situation. It 
abounds in excellent trout. It was originally an extensive hollow, 
as if scooped out for the purpose. At one place only, was there 
a deep 0| ening, by filling up which to the height of twenty-fivo 
feet, the work was at once completed ; and, by leaving a sluice in 
the centre, it can be filled or emptied at pleasure. The expense 
was remarkably moderate, in proportion to the extent of surface, 
and the qiiantjly of waler it contains. The whole is finished in 
an in-renious manner. Tlii»re are two other mountain streams 
worfhv of notice in the West f^aronv, viz. the Quinzie and Nether- 



KILSYTIK H7 

inch burns, which flow from tlie same fountain tU Burnhead, on 
Wes{-side farm, to the south of the Corrie-hill. 

Springs. — There is no district, where tlicrc is a greater abund • 
aiice of springs of wholesome water. Wellshot, opposite Auchin- 
volle, St Mirron's well, south of Woodend, and Kitty-lVisty well, 
on the hill-road to Stirling, known to all foot-passengers, are power- 
ful springs, of most delicious water. The town is chiefly snp|jlied 
by conductors from the Barwood, south-east of the town. Tlie mi- 
neral spring at Dovecot wood is now scarcely perceptible. There 
is one in the glen near Garrel mill. 

Botany, — Our romantic glens of Garrel, Colzium, Old Place, 
&c. have not, so far as I know, been minutely explored by the 
professed botanist. The Campsie glens have been more fre- 
quented, being nearer Glasgow, and more easy of access. The 
sloe, hawthorn, hyacinth, wild rasp, the elder, the bramble, ,and 
the hazel prevail. The scented woodruflf is to be found in our 
rocky glens. Much has been done, of late years, in the planting 
of trees, which, with inclosures and neat farm-houses, has given 
quite a new aspect to this parish. 

There are a flew fine specimens of aged yew trees at Townhead, 
near the loch, and a very few oaks of no great size. * The plan- 
tations at Ruchhill in the East Barony, and in the West Barony 
near Corrie, Lossit, Old Place, &c. are thriving and beautiful. 
We cannot boast of fruit trees. It is the earlv and successful 
cultivation of the most useful Solanum tuberosum (potato,) on 
which the fame of this parish, in so far as botany is concerned, chief- 
ly depends. " It not only gave birth to the gentleman who first 
introduced the culture of potatoes into this country, but it was the 
scene of his earliest experiments.'* The gentleman referred to 
was Robert Graham, Esq. of Tamrawer, in the Ea<t Barony. It 
wjis in the year 173J>, that he commenced this work of utility. 
Before that period, he and others had raised the potato in the 
giirden ; but there was a prejudice against raising it in the field. 
He planted half an acre of ground on the croft of Neilstone, to 
the north of the town of Kilsyth, where he at that time resided 
as factor on the estate of Kilsvth. This excited the attention of 

• What has been regarded as a gnat curiosity in natural Iiistoiy, m-iv be here i.o. 
ticed. All ivy of coiisidernble size, arrowing without Mi/jMirt of w-:iil or wood extra- 
neous to itself, doubling, over and over, with a large slirubhy luMd waving in the 
wind, and braving all weathers, stands near the fioiit of the n.ansc. The Si^luiion is, 
that the officer st(K>d there till 181G, on one end of which the ivy clung. 'I'he wall 
being removed, the ivy su]>ported itself, till last winter, or early in spring, when the 
high winds were ti>o powerful, and it is now no more. 



148 STIIILINGSHIHK. 

the neighbourhood, and the practice spread extensively. Some 
noblemen, as well as fanners and agriculturists, came from a dis- 
tance, among others the unfortunate Earl of Perth, — to observe 
the mode of culture, and the success of the experiments. Mr Gra- 
ham rented hmds in the vicinity of Renfrew, Penh, Dundee, Glas- 
gow, and Edinburgh, and for many years obtained premiums for 
cultivating the potato. 

11. — Civil Histouy. 

Historical Events, — The most memorable event in the civil 
history of this parish, doubtless, is the battle of Kilsyth, fought 
in 1645, betwixt General Baillie and Montrose, and which 
proved so disastrous to the Covenanters. The site of the battle 
is not very visible to the eye. It is in the valley, rough and stony, 
below Riskend farm house, the greater part covered with the 
water of the reservoir already described. Every little hill adja- 
cent records something connected with the events of that day, 
e, g. the Buliet-knowe, the Baggage- knowe, the Drum- burn, 
the Slaughter-howe, &c. On the land of Wester Auchincloacb, 
north-east of Kelvinhead, human bones have been frequently dug 
up. About twelve years ago, a quantity of human bones, mostly 
of a small size, were found in a corner of a field, north of Wester 
Auchincloacb. The tradition that the drummers and fifers were 
buried there, was thus confirmed. In the Dullatur bog, many 
skeletons and bones have been discovered. The hilt of a sword 
and part of a saddle, and various coir)s, have been found in different 
places. 

Livingston, Viscount of Kilsyth, a branch of the Linlithgow 
fixmily, was at that time, and till the year J 715, the chief proprie- 
tor of this parish. There are the ruins of three mansion-houses 
which were occupied by the chief, or by branches of the family : 
at Colzium (copper hill) where, in a modern house, near the ruins 
of the old castle, the present proprietor, Sir Archibald Edmonstone 
of Duntreath, Bart, resides ; at Dovecotwood, where there is a 
fragment of a very strong castle in a commanding situation, over- 
looking the town of Kilsyth ; and in the town of Kilsyth, where 
there is the latest inhabited of the castles, of date 1655, which 
is still pretty entire : it was formerly surrounded with gardens and 
lofty trees, but is now inhabited by many poor families. William 
Livingstone, Lord Kilsyth, joined the rebels in 1715, and lost at 
once his property and homo, ^i'he room and bed-closet are still 
shown, in whirh Charles Kdwanl spent a night. The unfortu- 



KILSYTH. 149 

nate laird, after the failure of the Chevalier's entcrprize, fled 
into Flanders, whence he never returned, unless, as is said, in 
disguise.* 

Revivals. — The most interesting event in the religious history of 
this parish is the Revival of Religion, which took place in the years 
1742 and 1743, under the ministry of the Rev. James Robe, A.M. 
and of which he gives a full and authentic account in his " Narra- 
tive." The notice of tiiis event in the former Statistical Account 
is very full, and, upon the whole, judicious. The writer of this 
has examined the subject as impartially and fully as he could, and 
must agree in the views expressed in that article, and also in the 
observations made regarding it by the late celebrated Sir H. Mon- 
creiff, in his Life of Dr John Erskine.f 

• Jean, daughter of William, Lord Coc-liran, son and heir of William Earl of Dun- 
dondd, married first to John Viscount of Dundee, then to the Viscount of Kilsyth, 
was. with her infant son, smothered or killed in Holland, (1717), hy the falling of a 
roof, either by accident or design, — only two of the whole company escaping, by being 
acated io a window. (See Dairy mple^s Memoirs.) The wound which Lady Kilsytli 
received was on the right temple. The child seems to have been smothered in the 
arms of its mother, llie bodies were sent over to Scotland, after being embalm- 
ed, and were committed to the family vault, in this jmrish. The space betwixt the 
leaiden and the wooden coffin was filled with a white matter, of the consistency of 
putty, but of a rich aromatic oddur. A few weeks previous to the drawing up of 
last Statistical Account, some visitors of the yault, students from Glasgow, (Uid writer 
of this has a lively remembrance of the scene,) upon lifting the leaden covering, after 
removing a board of fir, to their great surprise, found the bodies of Lady Kilsyth and her 
child •» entire as at the hour they were entombed. " Every feature," writes Dr Ren- 
niey *' and every limb is as full — nay, the very shroud is as clean and fresh, and the 
ribbons as bright as the day they were lodged in tlie tomb. > The body of her son and 
only child, the natural heir of the title and estate of Kilsyth, lies at her knee. His 
fieaturei are as composed as if he was only asleep, his colour as fresh, and his flesh 
as full as if in the perfect glow of health. He seems to have been an infant of three 
months old. The body of Lady Kilsyth is equally well preserved, and it would not 
be easy for a stranger to distinguish with his eye, whether she is dead or alive, &c.** 
(Statistical Account.) 'i'he coffin was soon closed, and the access to the tomb shut. 
The bodies soon mouldered away, — showing the vanity of ail attempts to arrest the . 
tendency of dust to dust. 

In Dt Rennie's account tl:e wound is said to be quite visible in the rij[^ht 
temple. A sketch in the writer's possession marks it as on the right check. Of this 
discrepancy, he can give no explanation. A parishioner, who has a distinct recollection 
of seeing the body, says the wound was quite visible on the right temple, and does 
not recollect any mark on the cheek. 

William, third and last Viscount Kilsyth was attainted after tlie Rebellion 
in 1715. The Lady Kilsyth, whose body was found in the church, was his iirbt wile. 
He was afterwards married to Miss AI'Dougal of Mackerston, and died at Konie 
1733. — See Douglas's Peerage. 

i* At the end of the record, ending March 19. 1751, we find the following notice : 
** The minister read unto them the names of above an hundred persons who were 
linost of tbem brought under notour spiritual concern in the years 1742 and 1743, and 
ccmoemiog whom he had ground to entertain good hopes. The under subscribing 
members of the session, elders, and deacons, hereby testify and declare, that all ot 
tliem who are now alive have l>een, from year to year, admitted hy the kirkscssion 
lo the Lord*s table since their first admission, either in these fore-mentioned ycar^, 
at since ; and in as far as is known to them, they have hud tJieir conversation such 
as becometh the Gospel ; as also, that four or five of the said list, who are now re- 
moved bv death, behaved, until their sild removal, as hecaiue good Christians. The 



150 STlIlLlNGSIllUE. 

Eminent Men, — Sir William Livingston of Kilsyth was, for 
his eminence in the knowledge of law, appointed one of the Sena- 
tors of the College of Justice in 1609, and afterwards chosen 

above testimonvi written by El)eiiezer Patcrson» Rcssion- clerk, is subscribed, clay and 
date fores:iid, by (signed) Elders, Joseph Lapsly, Alex. Patrick, Henry Ewan, James 
Millar, Deacon, J. Ilankine." 

March t!4, 1751. Sederunt, &c. *^ Tlie which day the session being met, the list 
read and subscribed on the 19th current was read before the incuibers present, and 
the said members then absent did now subscribe the foresaid testimony ; viz. £lderf, 
Rob. Graham, Aw. Provan, Henry Marshall, Jas. Zuill; Deacons, D. AuchenToll, 
Walter Kirkwood, Wm. and Dav. Sliaws, James Hanken, Mark Scot." 

In Mr Kobe's Narrative, p. 110, there is an im[>ortant attestation by heritors, elders, 
and the Bailie of Kilsyth to the. very remarkable reformation which had taken place 
in the lives of the people o^ this parish in the year 1742. The venerated Maclau- 
rin, Willison, Hamilton, Bonar, &c. were witnesses of, and sharers in this work; and 
they g<ive their solemn approval of the account which was drawn up soon after. 

Since this Account was first written, another work of the Spirit of God bas oc> 
curred among the people of this parish, similar in its nature and results to that which 
took place in 1742. For some time previous to the period when this work began, 
there had been a growing sidemnity in the minds of the people, and cases of deep 
concern about salvation occurred from time to time. It was not, however, until 
Tuesilny the 2-3d July 1839, that that remarkable anxiety showed itself, which soon 
came to attract universal notice. The sacrament had been dispensed on the 2lst oC 
July; and on Tuesday morning, Mr William C. Burns addressed an immense crowd 
of the people in their working clothes, in the parish church. The tcit was Psalm 
ex. 3, ** Thy people shall be willing in the day of thy power." The audience were 
uimsually solemnized from the beginning of ihe service. As it proceeded, many wept 
silently ; and ut last, when the preacher, in the view of parting with the people, was 
exhorting them with unusual solemnity and earnestness to an immediate aecepUince 
of Christ as a saviour, their feelings became so intense, that almost the whole 
multitude burst simultaneously into a flood of tears, and many began to cry aloud to 
God for mercy. In consequence of the deep spiritual concern which settled down 
upon the people from this tiuie, the word of God continued to be preached to 
crowded audiences, by various ministers, almost every night, for about three months; 
and, as on occasion of the former revival of religion here, the sacrament was a second 
time observed in September, when a great many ministerb were present, and proba« 
bly not fewfr than 10.000 people assembled, some of them from a great distance, to 
hear the word of God, which was preached in the church, and in a Held near the 
town. A remarkable degree of the Divine presence was enjoyed by many on this 
occasion ; and, vast as was the multitude con;;regated, hardly a pers'jn could be seen 
the worse of liquor. This remarkable anxiety gradually subsided, and has not since 
returned in the same wonderful dep^ree. When I now look back, after the laj^se of 
nearly wo years, upon these marvellous scenes, and solemnly consider what has taken 
place in the li;^ht of God's word, 1 camiot entertain the least doubt that the Lord 
lias been indeed among us, and has left many precious tokens of his presence. It is 
true that some who once piomised well, have sadly disappointed our hopes ; and that 
many who shared for a timo in the general anxiety about salvation, have sunk back 
into their former deadness and impenitence. Still, however, there are, we have rea- 
son to hope, not a few who have been savingly turned from sin unto God, while, in 
other rv'Spects, the religious and moral state of the people at large is much improved. 
The places of worship are better attended, and there is more general seriousness du- 
ring divine service, than formerly ; many family altais have been erected ; there is a 
greater degree of zeal among us for missionary objects ; and there are about thirty 
w(>ekly prayer meetings of a private kind among the people, not including those 
which are connected with the Dissenting bodies. 

I should add. th.-^t the new parish at Hantnn shared largely in this grao'ous visita> 
tion, and that the fruits of it there are not Ie.<is abundant, in proportion, than among 
ns. Nor has this awakening been at all confined to those who attend the Established 
(Ijurth, in which it first occurred. The work of God has been, I believe, going <m 
it) various degrees, from time to time, among all the other denominations,— Uelief, 
Mi»llioi|isl5, nnd indcpendciils. 



KILSYTH. 151 

one of his Majesty's Privy-Council and Vice- Chancellor of Scot- 
land. He died about 1627. 

The Rev, Mr John Livingston, justly celebrated for his remark- 
able success in a sermon preached at Shotts, on Monday ai^er 
the communion there, about the year 1628, and which gave rise 
to the practice in the Church of Scotland of • observing a day 
of thanksgiving after the dispensation of the Lord's Supper, was 
a native of this parish. He was born in 1603, and nearly re- 
lated to the Viscount of Kilsyth. Livingston was ainong the most 
learned and laborious of the brethren, who arc justly described as 
** the band of faithful ministers, who, about the year 1643, were en- 
couraged to take their lot in Ulster in Ireland, and whose labours 
were remarkably blessed to the converting of many."* They were 
the founders of the Presbyterian Church in that province, which 
is. now recognized as in communion with the Church of Scot- 
land. Livingston was one of the five eminent men who went to 
Ireland to aid *^ the seven brethren, constituting the first band of 
ministers who laboured with apostolic earnestness to remove the ig- 
norance, formality, and profaneness which characterized the greater 
part of the ^arly colonists." He was settled at Killinchin, within 
the diocese of Down, ordained by Rev. William Cunninghame of 
Tullaghfernan, (now TuUy), and two or three other ministers, — Mr 
Andrew Knox, Bishop of Raphe, being present He was afterwards 
minister successively of Stranraer, and of Ancrum, in Scotland, and 
was obliged to flee, in persecuting times, to Holland, where he died. 
He suffered more than any of the other brethren of that period, 
for bis unshaken attachment and adherence to the Presbyterian 
cause. His Life was originally printed in 4to, in 1727; reprinted 
in 18mo, 1754. 

Sir Archibald Edmonstone of Duntreath, Bart, the chief pro- 
prietor here, is the author of a well-written and interesting account 
of bis travels in Egypt. 

W. A. Cadell, Esq. of Banton, second proprietor, is the author 
of two very accurate volumes of travels in Italy. 

The present venerable and eminent Professor of Anatomy in 
the University of Glasgow, Dr James JefTray, is a native of this 
parish, and has published a valuable medical work. 

Henry Marshall, Esq., Inspector of Hospitals, a native of this 
parish, is the author of several interesting publications. 

• Rcitrs History of rrc.-bylciianism in Ireland, VdK i. p. 08. 



152 STIRLINQSHIRE. 

The Rev. James Robe, A. M., a native of Cumbernauld, and 
minister here from 1613 to 1755, is the author of the interesting 
narrative already referred to, and several volumes of sermons. 

The Rev. Dr R. Rennie, the author of several essays on Peat- 
Moss, and possessed of much general information, was a oatiie 
of this parish, and its minister from 1789 to 1820. 

Robert Graham, of Tomrawer, has already been mentioned 
as an eminent agriculturist. 

Hugh Baird, Esq., an eminent civil-engineer, resided at Kel- 
vinhead, till his death in 18*27. He projected and finished the 
Union Canal. 

Antiquities. — There are remains in this parish, of two Pic- 
tish forts, corresponding to the two more conspicuous Roman 
forts at Westerwood and Bar-hill, viz. Conneypark and Bal- 
castle ; the latter very distinct and interesting, being one of tbe 
most regular of such forts in Scotland, and rising regularly on 
all sides at an angle of 45 degrees. The Bar-hill or Castle- 
hill opposite to it, seems to have been one of the most import- 
ant forts on the line of the Roman wall, having a commanding 
view of nearly half its whole length, and overlooking the whole of 
Strath- Kelvin. It is, besides, at the narrowest part of the valley, 
so as to prevent the forcing of a passage. 

The ruined walls of Colzium Castle remain on a fine elevation 
above the glen of Colzium. A smaller remnant of another man- 
sion of the Livingstone family, was burnt by Cromwell's sol- 
diers, as they passed to Stirling. There is an old house in the 
hamlet of Arnbrae, a mile to the westward of Kilsyth, on the 
north side of the turnpike to Glasgow, in which a room is still 
shown, where Cromwell slept a night; and part of the table he 
used, is preserved in the adjoining farm-house. 

Lady Kilsyth*s vault is now in the open church-yard, covered 
with three flat stones. On a late occasion of opening the vaults 
there was found a ring, with the initials, J. C. supposed to signify 
Jean Cochran, Lady Kilsyth, and a smoking-pipe of earthen-ware. 
On the east side of the romantic glen (Garrel), before no- 
ticed, there is the Covenanters' Cave, having the date 1669 in- 
scribed on the stone, or arch over it. Nearly adjoining, tradition 
says the Covenanters had their encampment. The tent of the Mar- 
quis of Montrose, on a rising ground above Colziimi, mentioned 
in the former Account as quite visible, is now scarcely discernible. 



KILSYTH. 



153 



Landholders. — Sir Archibald Edmonstone of Duntreath, Bart, 
is by far the largest proprietor. His grandfather, Sir Archibald^ 
purchased the Kilsyth estate in 1784 from the York-Building 
Company, — Campbell of Shawfield being the tacksman since the 
forfeiture. He found it in a most neglected state. Few parishes 
in Scotland have been more remarkably changed to the better, by 
judicious and spirited improvement. Everywhere, it is now divided 
with hedge-rows, and provided with excellent farm-stcadings. 
There is still apparent, after all that has been done in the way 
of plantation, a want of clothing ; but, in fact, the hills are 
too valuable, as sweet pasturage for sheep, to be generally 
planted. 



The Taluation of Kilsyth as at present. 

1. Sir Archibald Edmonstone, Bart. 

2. William A. Cadell, Banton and Ruchill,* 

3. James Marihall, Esq. of Cunnypark, 

4. Alexander and John Wilsons, Auchinrivoch* 

5. Carron Company of Tom rawer, - - 

6. Thomas Walters of Inchterff, 

7. Dundaff lands, His Grace Duke of Montrose, &c.t 

8. John Marshall, Esq. Townhead, 

9. Old Town of Kilsyth, 

10. Walter Duncan, Esq. Gatesidc, 

11. J. Corbet, Esq. Aucbinclocb (Wester), 

J2» John Miller, Esq. of Orchard of Auchincloch, 

13. William Rankine, Esq. of Bogsidc, 

14. John Bow, Esq. of Auchinrivoch (Wester), 

15. Archibald Graham, Esq. of Auchincloch Mill, 



L.2548 6 7 Scote- 

311 15 10 

210 

170 

1*20 15 10 

117 13 5 

80 10 7 

75 

75 U 

70 

40 5 8 

39 5 3 

24 3 3 

20 

14 1 4 



L.3916 17 9 



Sir A. Edmonstone's land, 

Mr Cadell, 

Duke of Montrose, 

Mr James Marshall, 

Mr Walters, 

Mr John Marshall, 

Mr Duncan, 

Mr Corbet, 

Mr Millar, 



Real rental and 

L6130 

800 

500 

450 

220 

200 

- 150 

100 

100 



present value. 

Mr Wilson, 
Mr A. Graham, 
Mr John Bow, 
Mr R. Goodwin, 
Mr A. Walker, 
Mr Smart, 
Mothcrweirs Heirs, 
Kilsyth Feuars, 
Carron Co.'s farms, 



L.347 

50 

40 

50 

80 

30 

20 

200 

200 



State of the valued rent of the estate of Kilsyth, subtracting 
the valued rent of the lands sold, with entry to the purchasers 
of numbers 1 and 2, at Martinmas 1 834, and of numbers 3 and 
4 at Martinmas 1835: 

• Under Mr Cadcirs of Ruchill is included a small part belonging to R. Wilson, 
being about a fourth of Uuchill, the whole of which is valued at L.30 ScoU, so that' 
there are in all, twenty heritors,— the Kilsyth feuars being as one. 

f A. Walker of Benlend ; J. Smart, Waterside ; Robert Goodwin, Shifarquhar ; D. 
MotherwcUof Spittle, (his heirs;) rank as heritors, their valuation being included in 
Dundaff. 



152 8TItfU!f08RIRE. 

The Rev. James Robe, A. tt^ n nrtife ^^"^ ^ ^ 

minister here from 1618 to 1751S is t^ ..//7 13 6 

narrative already referred t0| and ^ 210 

The Rev. Dr R. Rennie, & ^^o ^^ ^^ ^ 

M0S8, and posaesaad rf " — r 

of this parish, and its • .>^ ^"^ - 's^c. 1.2548 6 7 

Robert Graham, 
as an eminent agr ^>/^A Estate. 

Huffh Baild^ ,^^^ '"•* ^ '"^ Sterling. 4140 

. 1 J ^-ii i^» v*"^d about 4i».dd. per acre, Iftjt) 

vinhead, till h» ^•iS'**^ . . 170 






Union CftM^ .■•.>-,jx ., , , o.» 

Antijmt .v^r^^"-^ 
iish fort' /v' ^^r in extent is William Archibald Cadell, Es^. 

forts '•' ^■'''^^(^iaI extent of the estate of Banton is 655 Scots 

yOblf 'Ir' te rcn^ of which varies from 15s. tu L.2, 10s. 

J .^^\rf^'* . • • 445 Scots acres. 

fW^ Virbich is from 5s. to L.l, . . 12 

^tci>^^ 665 

^ land rent is L.C65 

}]^ Zu-dutics of ground fcucd, . . 27 

J'*^^5u;k]c> mill and water-power, . 28 

ffft^rab ^^ ironstone, about . . 90 

Yearly rental about . L.800 

jt IS impossible to state the quantity of moss ground brougiit 

•iifo cultivation, as the system of draining has been going on for 

g great number of years, and the moss ground so drained has 

been inclosed along with other ground, without any particular 

notice. 

The ironstone has been, and is still wrought bv the Carron 
Company. 

There is also coal on the estjite, which is wrought to a very 
trifling extent, for the purpose of making sickles at the sickle- 
mill. 

The above rents are on an average of two or three years, (date 
1837.) 

The third heritor is James Marshall of Cunnypark and Tomphin, 
(who is also tacksman of all the coal and limestone on the Kilsyth 
estate.) These lands contain about 400 acres. Cunnypark, the 
most easterly farm, and adjoining to Holland's bush, Denny parish, 
is a wxxl farm of arable, li<rht land, suitable fur barlev and jjreen 



KILSYTH. 165 

Vrop* Tomphiii rises above it pretty steep, and is more adapted for 

^zing than for the plough. The best land lets at about L.2 per 

V ; the inferior, from 5s. to L.1. Mr Marshall pays L.313 for all 

^o'dl and lime on the estate of Sir A. Edmonstone, including the 

Vv on Cunnypark, called the Steel colliery. Cunnypark 

Amphin are worth about L.450 per annum; and at present 

. *j rather highly rented. 

The fourth heritor is Alexander Wilson, Esq. residing at Ban- 
nockburn, who lately purchased Auchinrivoch, Auchinvalley, and 
Berryhill, lying north-west of the village of Banton, which contain 





Ai 


ruble. 


Wood 


• 


Houses & Yards. 


Roads. 


Total 




A. 


R. F. 


A. 


R. 


F. 


A. 


R. F. 


A 


R. F. 


A. 


R. 


F. 


Auchinvalley, 


69 


1 4 














2 16 





1 30 


70 


1 


10 


Auchinrivoch, 


81 


3d 


1 











2 22 





2 10 


83 


1 


25 


BeiryhiU, 


135 


2 i\0 


3 


3 





1 


10 








140 


2 


6 



294 1 1 

The rental of the existing tacks, as stated by Sir Archibald 
Edmonstone, in the advertisement of sale is, deducting proportion 
of public burdens, 

Aucbinyalley, . . L.78 10 

Auchinrivoch and Berryhill, . 278 10 

L.347 "o 

The fifth heritor is the Carron Company, which holds the estate 
of Tamrawer, anciently Graham's, two farms of good arable land, 
lying east of Lower Banton, to the north of Kelvinhead and the 
great canal. 

The sixth is Mr Waiters, who lately bought Inchterff, the most 
westerly land in the parish, upon the banks of the Kelvin, bound- 
ed by that river on the south, and by Auchinreoch, in Campsie, on 
the north. This beautiful small property amounts to about 150 
acres, all of good ground, with the exception of a portion of the 
red moss formerly referred to, which is quite worthless, lying in a 
dead level, and upon a bad kind of clay. Inchterif is almost in* 
sulated, as regards the other lands of Kilsyth parish, being within 
a mile and a half of Kirkintilloch town. Annual rent, L.2'20. 

The seventh heritor is His Grace the Duke of Montrose, who 
has two excellent grazing farms on the south side of the Carron, 
being the chief part of Dundaff lands, Burnhouse, and Claharry 
and Slachristock. Value L. 460 per annum. The first, let to 
David Ure at L. 150, may keep 15 score of ewes, and 60 black- 
cattle. The second, let to James Ewing at L.310, may keep 
15 score ewes, and 150 black-cattle. 



154 STIRLINQSHIUE. 

East and West Baronies, as before the sales, L.dll6 

Deduct, 

1. Inchsterf, sold to Mr Walters, . . L.1I7 IS 5 

2. Gateside, sold to Mr Duncan, . 70 
8. CunnyiJark and Tomphin, Mr Marshall, 2110 
4. Auchiurivocb, &c. Messrs Wilson, . 170 

567 13 5 



Remaining valued reut in 1836, 1^2548 6 7 

Kilsyth Estate. 

Scotch acres of arable land from L.l to I..3 Sterling, 4140 

Do. pasture and hill ground about 4s. 6d. per acre, . 1850 

Do. in plantation, . • 170 
Real rental, L.61d0, 

Acres of moss cultivated lately, about . 20 

The second heritor in extent is William Archibald Cadell, Esq. 
of Banton. The total extent of the estate of Banton is 655 Scots 
acres. 

Arable land, the rent of which varies from 15s. to L.2, lOs. 

per acre, . . * 445 Scots acres. 

Pasture and hill land, . 198 

reut of which is from 5s. to L.l, . . 12 

665 

llie real land rent is L.665 

Also feu-duties of ground feued, . . 27 

Rent of Sickle-mill and water-power, 28 

Minerals and ironstone, about . . 30 

Yearly rental about . L.800 

It is impossible to state the quantity of moss ground brought 
into cultivation, as the system of draining has been going on for 
a great number of years, and the moss ground so drained has 
been inclosed along with other ground, without any particular 
notice. 

The ironstone has been, and is still wrought by the Carron 
Company. 

There is also coal on the estate, which is wrought to a very 
trifling extent, for the purpose of making sickles at the sickle- 
mill. 

The above rents are on an average of two or three years, (date 
1837.) 

The third heritor is James Marshall of Cunnyparkand Tomphin, 
(who is also tacksman of all the coal and limestone on the Kilsyth 
estate.) These lands contain about 400 acres. Cunnypark, the 
most easterly farm, and adjoining to Holland's bush, Denny parish, 
is a good farm of arable, litrht land, suitable for barley and green 

:3 



KILSYTH. 155 

crop. Tomphiu rises above it pretty steep, and is more adapted for 
grazing than for the plough. The best land lets at about L.2 per 
acre; the inferior, from 5s. to L.1. Mr Marshall pays L.313 for all 
the coal and lime on the estate of Sir A. Edmonstone, including the 
colliery on Cunnypark, called the Steel colliery. Cunnypark 
and Tomphin are worth about L.450 per annum; and at present 
are rather highly rented. 

The fourth heritor is Alexander Wilson, Esq. residing at Ban- 
nockburn, wha lately purchased Auchinrivoch, Auchinvalley, and 
Berryhill, lying north-west of the village of Banton, which contain 

Arabic. Wood. Houses & Yards. liomis. TotaL 

A, ». P. A. a. F. A. R. F. A R. F. A. R. F. 

Auchinvaney, 69 1 4 2 16 1 3D 70 1 10 

Auchinrivoch, 81 33 10 2 22 2 10 83 1 25 

Berryhill, 135 2 36 3 3 1 10 140 2 6 



294 \ 1 

The rental of the existing tacks, as stated by Sir Archibald 
Edmonstone, in the advertisement of sale is, deducting proportion 
of public burdens, 

Auchinralley, . . L. 78 10 

Auchinriroch and Berryhill, . 278 10 

L.847 ~0 

The fifth heritor is the Carron Company, which holds the estate 
of Tamrawer, anciently Graham's, two farms of good arable land, 
lying east of Lower Banton, to the north of Kelvinhead and the 
great canal. 

The sixth is Mr Watters, who lately bought Inchterff, the most 
westerly land in the parish, upon the banks of the Kelvin, bound- 
ed by that river on the south, and by Auchinreoch, in Campsie, on 
the north* This beautiful small property amounts to about 150 
acres, all of good ground, with the exception of a portion of the 
red moss formerly referred to, which is quite worthless, lying in a 
dead level, and upon a bad kind of clay. Inchterff is almost in* 
sulated, as regards the other lands of Kilsyth parish, being within 
a mile and a half of Kirkintilloch town. Annual rent, L.220. 

The seventh heritor is His Grace the Duke of Montrose, who 
has two excellent grazing farms on the south side of the Carron, 
being the chief part of Dundaff lands, Burnhouse, and Claharry 
and Slachristock. Value L. 460 per annum. The first, let to 
David Ure at L. 150, may keep 15 score of ewes, and 60 black- 
cattle* The second, let to James Ewing at L. 310, may keep 
15 score ewes, and 150 black-cattle. 



156 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

The eighth heritor is Mr John Marshall, possessor of Townhead, 
which was bought by the grandfather of the present proprietor, 
from the Viscount Kilsyth, in 1715. It is finely wooded, and 
forms a good grass and arable farm. Value L. 200 per annum. 

The ninth is the Kilsyth feuars. Value nearly L.200 per annum. 

The tenth is Mr Walter Duncan, possessing Gateside, a farm 
of 70 acres, lying west of Kelvinhead, and rising gently to the 
north of the great canal ; good dry ground, yielding good and 
early crops of barley, &c. Rent L.120; worth more, say L.150. 

The eleventh heritor is Mr Corbet of Wester Auchincloch ; a 
fine farm, with a southern exposure, west of Kelvinhead, and south 
of the great road from Falkirk to Glasgow. Value L. 100 per 
annum. 

The next is Mr John Miller of Orchard ; lying west of, and 
adjoining to Wester Auchincloch, and of a similar description. 
Value L. 100. 

Besides these, there are the following smaller properties : 
Auchincloch mill, Mr Archibald Graham; Auchinrivocb, (Wes- 
ter), Mr J. Bow; and Bogside, Mr William Ranken, lying near the 
town of Kilsyth, north of the old church, and the present manse. 
Mr Robert Wilson, tacksman of the Bannock colliery, is proprie- 
tor of north Ruchill, being the fourth part of Ruchill, formerly 
valued at L.dO per annum ; the other three parts being now added 
to Banton estate. There are also three very small heritors, Smart 
and Motherwell, Waterside of Carron, and R. Goodwin Slafar- 
quhar, in the same locality. Value L.95 per annum. 

The residing heritors, are. Sir A. Edmonstone, Bart, of Dun- 
treath, who resides at Colzium ; Messrs Miller, Bow, Rankin, 
Corbet, A. Graham, and John Marshall. James Marshall lives 
at Auchinsterrie, which ecclesiastically, or by use and wont, is con- 
sidered as in the parish of Kilsyth. 



III. — Population. 






Population, as by census 18()I, 


1762 




1811, 


3206 




1821, 


4260 




1831, 


4297 




. offamiliL's in the parish in 1831, 


• • • 


834 


chleHy employed in agriculture, 


• • • 


100 


trade, manufactures, 


and handicraft, 


560 



Character of the People, — There is among us, as in the generality 
of such parishes, occasional excess in drinking, and instances of un- 
cleanness' and imprudent marriages. Wo have been also far-famed 



KILSYTH. 157 

for Radicalism ; yet there is a strong Conservative spirit, which has 
been lately increasing. Neglect of religious ordinances, with 
which too many are chargeable, is generally excused by the alleg- 
ed and often real want of clothing, — the effect, no doubt, often- 
times of previous improvidence, and the habit of using tobacco and 
ardent spirits. The want of church accommodation is also com- 
plained of. The church attendance, however, is much better now 
than it was, about sixteen years ago. 

IV, — Industry. 
Agriadture. — The agricultural population of the parish are a most 
industrious, frugal, sober class of people. By far the largest pro- 
duce of the parish is that of the dairy, to which the rest is subsi- 
diary ; and, consequently, the husbandry is what is called the mix- 
ed ; indeed, no other would suit the soil and the climate. Be- 
sides, the large manufacturing village affords abundant consumpt 
for the produce of the dairy. Butter and butter-milk are the 
chief produce sold from the dairy. Very little cheese is made be- 
yond what is necessary for the farmer's family use. The dairy 
cows are all of the Ayrshire breed, and are, through the whole 
year, very highly kept by turnips, and other produce of the land ; 
sometimes with distillery refuse, draff, &c. all the year round, but 
chiefly in the winter months. The produce from each cow may 
average L. 8 per annum. 

The stock reared is principally for the purpose of maintaining 
the stock in the byre, the oldest and least valuable being yearly re- 
placed from the young stock, \\hile those turned out are cither al- 
ready fat, or are sold to be put on grass for that purpose. 

At the time of the last Statistical Account, scarcely a single 
boll of wheat had ever been raised in the parish ; but the extra- 
ordinary agricultural improvements which soon after took place, 
introduced very extensively the cultivation of wheat. It was found, 
however, that wheat was not the crop most productive and pro6t- 
able ; and oats, barley, and green crop are adhered to, as far more 
profitable in the long run. 

Live-Stock, — The following is a state of the stock, and annual 
value thereof, in the parish of Kilsyth,* at October 1838. 

.>j0 milk •ows, at L 8 each, . . L.4400 

583 younf( cattle reared, at L.l, 10s. each, . 774 10 

16l8she«p. at 12s. ahead, . . 9G4 6 

200 fat cattle, at L.3 per head.t . • • 600 

• Furnished by Mr John Uennie, at Curry mire. 

t In the Lst Statistical Account, 7ji) is L.iven us tlie proh.ililc nuinl»er of fat cattle. 



L.150 








80 








240 








1252 








6354 








4960 








2092 








1537 


10 





738 









158 .STIIILINGSHIRK. 

30 hones, reared at L.5« • 

80 swioc, at L. I per bead, 
159 work horses. 

30 acres wheat, at L.8 per acre, 
1564 acres barley, at L.8 per do. 
1059 acres oats, at L-6 per do. 
248 acres potatoes, at L.20 per do. 
130j^ acres turnips, at L.I 6 per do. 
256^ ryegrass and clover hay. at L.6 per do. . 
246 acres meadow and other hay, at L.3 per do. 

L 24,127 10 

The above is calculated rather under the real value. 

Much has been done by the proprietors of the chief estate, in 
the way of improvement, since the time of last Account* The pa- 
rish was then comparatively a desert. There were no trees, with 
the exception of a few about Colzium and Townhead. Now, there 
are many beautiful belts of planting. The fields are all neatly 
subdivided into commodious parks, surrounded with hawthorn 
hedges. 

In the year I SOS, the proprietor of the Kilsyth estate laid out 
a very large sum in improvements, farm-houses. &c. The build- 
ings were, in several instances, by far too large and expensive, for 
the size and value of the farm, so that a great part of the enor- 
mous outlay never has, and never will be, returned. The farm of 
Gaval alone, in the West Barony, had dwelling-house and steads 
ings erected at an expense of L. 4,500. It was then designated 
Kilsyth Farm, now Gaval House, where the factor resides. Many 
of the houses now stand in need of considerable repairs. 

Liberal encouragement is given to the tenants, in the way of 
improvements. A tile and brick-work, upon the estate at Curry- 
mire, in the East Barony, furnishes the means of drain-making. 
The tiles are allowed, at a small cost, to the tenants, — besides al- 
lowance for liming, when the soil requires it. 

V. — Pauochial Economy. 

This parish may be said to comprise three of a moderate ?.\ze 
and population, viz. the town and suburbs, containing "2900; 
the East Barony and moorlands, nearly 1000; and the West Ba- 
rony, about 350. The Riiilway work is said to have added nearly 
500 ; but these are again departing. The census about to be taken 
will probably show the population to be still about 4300. 

The town lies on the most northerly road from Edinburgh to 

This, however, must have been a mistiike, as at no period could this parish have fur- 
nished the means of feeding to that extent ; especially at a time when turnip was 
scarcely known. 



KILSYTH. 159 

Ghisgow, and is nearly equidistant from Glasgow, Stirling, (by the 
hill road), Falkirk, and Hamilton. It does not seem to be very 
ancient, yet it has been a post-town ever since the institution 
of the post establishment. About half a century ago, it was the 
great thoroughfare betwixt the metropolis and (jlasgow. Now, 
it is rare to see any vehicle on the streets, superior to a cart or the 
post gig. There is not even one post-chaise, but very comfortable 
accommodation in the chief inn, for families travelling in their own 
vehicles. 

There are two villages in the East Barony, Banton and Auchin- 
mully, (or Banton Lower,) containing 600 inhabitants, miners, 
colliers, sickle-makers, &c. 

The town of Kilsyth, holding of Sir Archibald Edmonstone, Bart, 
was erected into a burgh of barony about twelve years ago, having 
a bailie and four councillors, elected annually, who hold monthly 
courts for small debts, and petty offences. All the inhabitants 
and proprietors of houses to the extent of L. 5 rental, who chose 
to furnish themselves with a burgess-ticket, have a vote in the elec- 
tion* 

The trade of Kilsyth is almost entirely hand-loom-weaving, to the 
order of the Glasgow manufacturers. Two factories have lately been 
commenced; in the new town of Kilsyth, by Messrs Wilson, and 
at Quinzie mill, in the West Barony, by Messrs Ross. The 
latter is a waulking factory ; the articles made are whip and 
lappets, the former used in weaving, the latter for the foreign 
market. The number of hands at present 23 ; 16 looms going; 
the quantity of cloth thrown off about 160 pieces, ten yards 
in each piece. The work is now enlarged, and eleven more 
looms fitted up. For six months past, the company have em- 
ployed a young man, although there is an excellent school at 
Chapel Green, to teach the children connected with this work, and 
a few others who choose to avail themselves of the benefit. They 
employ about 50 hands in town also. Messrs Wilson's factory 
employs at present 50 weavers, all working coarse lappets, with 
the exception of nine who are working umbrella- cloth and checked 
ginghams. Out- door weavers in the town are working fine lap' 
pets ; they are #6 in number. There are six out-of-door'pollicot 
weavers, which makes in all 122 in this parish. These two com- 
panies, though small compared with those in Glasgow, Airdrie, 
&c. are yet of some importance here ; as before their erection, no- 
thing of the kind had been, at least for a long time, attempted, 



KiO STIULINGSHIKE. 

and the community generally were operatives dependiDg ou the 
great houses in Glasgow. 

Our tambourers are, upon the whole, in the most depressed con- 
dition at present. 

At Upper Banton, in the East Barony, there is a small sickle- 
work ; a paper-mill at Townhead, Mr Lusk's; and a brick and 
tile-work iit Currymire ; the two latter are of recent origin. 

We have no regular weekly market-day ; nor are our two an- 
nual fairs of any moment ;* yet, almost at all seasons, good 
butcher-meat can be obtained (with the exception of veal), al- 
most as good as in Glasgow or Falkirk, and somewhat cheaper. 
In this article there has been a very perceptible improvement, 
during the last fifteen years. 

For several years past, there has been a Farmers' Association 
in this and the neighbouring parishes ; and a large cattle-sbow, 
near the chief inn, takes place in the month of June, and is en- 
couraged by the chief proprietor and his factor, James Maclaren, 
Esq. and by other friends to agricultural improvement, when pre- 
miums are awarded for the best specimens of horses, cows, &c. 
This show has been attended with perceptible benefit 

Forth and Clyde, — The canal is our principal mode of com- 
munication with other parts of the country. We have also cheap 
coaches, three times a-day to Stirling, in connection with the canal 
barges. The mail-coach was removed from us about ten vears 
ago, and the intercourse with Glasgow and Falkirk is now car- 
ried on by a post-gig, carrying one passenger. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The present parish church, erected in 
1816, is elegant and well-finished. The site of the former church 
was in the church-yard ; but that of the present is at the west end 
of the town, adjoining the old house of Kilsyth. It is by far too 
small for the population, holding only 860. The younger part 
of families are thus, in a manner, precluded from attending with 
their parents, and remain at home, or roam through the fields ; 
and there is afforded too ready an apology to many, for neglecting 
religious ordinances. 

Now, however, a very neat church has been erected at Banton, on 
the ground of Iluchill, a little to the north of Kelvtnhead, which will 
accommodate upwards of 400, and when a gallery is needed, nearly 
600. The means of erecting this church were obtained by subscrip* 

• 'I'liis year tlu* fair has lu-en Iirlil on Friday tho 9th April, and the change pro- 
u\\%vs to be f.ivoiirflblc, as il is ji g(N)d time for selling milk caws. 



KILSYTH. 161 

tion,^ and a grant from the Genera) Assemblj^'s Church Extension 
Committee. The population adjacent amounts to about 900. A new 
school and master's house have been erected at the same time. 
A missionary has been employed since Christmas Idd?, who la- 
bours during the week among the families of the district. The 
new church is nearly three miles east froQ\ the parish church of 
Kilsyth, and nearly as far distant from any other place of worship. 
Yet the population is not such as to afford any reasonable pros- 
pect of a sufficient support to a minister. An endowment is, there- 
fore, imperatively called for.f 

"rhe manse was built in 1786, for Mr John Telfer, the minis- 
ter. An addition was made to it, in an early part of Dr Ronnie's 
ministry, of one large room, besides other conveniences ; and new 
&nd excellent offices were added at a later period (1816). Two 
^ears ago, the heritors erected two rooms above the large room 
referred to, put the whole in a pretty good state of repair, built a 
handsome porch of freestone, so that it is now a respectable-look- 
ing, and commodious dwelling for a family, although the narrow- 
ness of the original construction and the steepness of the staircase 
could not be corrected^ The glebe consists of about 1 acres of 
the best light land in the parish. A great part of it is a very few 
inches deep, upon a blue whinstone.;^ Till 1800, the glebe was 
in parcels amounting together to 1 4 acres, but not lying contigu- 
ous. Excambion has improved the benefice. The only inconve- 
nience is, that there is no perennial spring on the glebe. The 
well, though good water, fails in a sultry season. 

The greater part of the teinds was exhausted at the last aug- 
mentation in 1822, the stipend ^as raised to 17 chalders, half 
meal, half barley, at the highest (iars, with L. 1 5 communion ele- 
ments, being about L. 250 a-year at an average. Most of the 
'mailer heritors have surrendered their teinds ; which frees them 
<>f all trouble from any future augmentation. 

* Four futMeribert of fifty guineaieach to the new church of Banton were. Sir A. 
^dmoDttone, Bart. ; W. A. CadelK Esq. of Baoton ; Daniel Lusk, £>q. of the pa- 
l^^-fDiUi Townhead ; and William Campbell, Rsq. Glasgow. 

Since the abore was written, Mr J. Lyon was ordain^ minister of Banton on the 
«^h February 1840. 

f thm late Sir Charles Edmonstone, Bart, presented an excellent bell from Lon- 
^^Ni to* the church of Kilsyth, which unfortunately was broken in the year 1823, 
*^ is lupposed* from the bellman having made an undue addition to the tongue, 
^^tb th« ambitious design of outpealing the neighbouring bell of Kirkintilloch. The 
^«w bcU, the production of S. Miller and Co., Glasgow, is a fine silver-toned one. 

X The greater part of the glebe was lately let at L.2, Ids. per acre. The park to 
^lt« aoutb of the manse is the best, and is still retained as pasture by the minister. 

STIRLING* L 



162 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Since the year 1768» when the Relief church was built, there 
have been a considerable number of Dissenters in this parish, 
chiefly of the Relief persuasion, and of Original Buif;bers,* and 
the United Associate Synod : the two last-named going for wor- 
ship to Cumbernauld. A small body of Methodists have now a 
chapel ; and a small body of Independents occupy the New Ma- 
son Lodge. The proportion of Dissenters to those in connectioD 
with the church, is nearly a fifth ; but there are occasional transi- 
tions from the Church to the Relief, and vice versa^ from various 
causes, such as discipline, marriages, seats, &c. The Relief 
church holds about 600 ; and, as usual, the hearers are from pa- 
rishes adjacent, as well as from this. 

So early as the year 1586 Mr Alexander Livingston, of the fa- 
mily of Callendar, was parson of the original parish of Monae- 
brugh. He was succeeded, in 1599, by his son, William Living- 
ston, — a considerable heritor in the parish. In 1604, he used all 
bis influence to oppose the restoration of the bishops, for which 
cause, and for his non-submission to the canons and ceremonies, 
he was deposed, and, by his Majesty's authority, deprived of his 
ministry. After this, there seems to have l^en a vacancy for some 
years. In the year 1615, Mr Archibald Graham was admitted 
minister. In the year 1636, he was called before the High 
Commission Court, for neglecting to practise the canons and 
constitutions; and for this he was deposed. The following year 
Mr Gabriel Cunningham was admitted, who conformed to Epis- 
copacy after the Restoration. Till about this period, it would 
seem that the Lord's Supper had not been administered, for it is 
recorded, that, in the year 1665, communion table-cloths, cups, 
and tickets were obtained, and a bason for baptism, but no flagons, 
nor even a church Bible. The people repeated the creed, said 
the Lord's Prayer, and sung the doxology after the psalms. In 
the year 1666, Mr James Gartshore was admitted to the charge. 
He was translated to Cardross in 1673. Two years after, Mr 
Walter M'Gill, the last Episcopal clergyman here, was admitted 
minister, being translated from Wigton. He was a man of un- 
common meekness and moderation, and a great favourite of all 
ranks and denominations of people in the parish ; insomuch, that, 
when it was declared vacant by the Presbytery, in the year 1690, 
an uproar ensued. The patron and his lady, with a powerful 

• Since the union of the Original Burgher congregation with the Establishment, 
the hearers who used to go out of this parish come to the churches of Kilsyth and 
of Banton 1841 . 



KILSYTH. 163 

party in the parish, espoused his cause ; and, when Uie Presbytery 
met at the church, the patron sent down his chamberlain to refuse 
them admittance, and lock up the doors. The populace even of- 
ferttd violence to the Presbyterian clergyman who was to oflBciate. 
A scuffle ensued, in which many were wounded, and one killed. 
Mr M^GiU's partizans at last prevailed, and the Presbytery were 
at a loss what steps next to take; but, in February 1691, Mr 
M^Gill formally gave in his demission. A vacancy ensued for 
some time ; during which period, the Presbytery visited, and order- 
ed repairs on the church, manse, and offices to the amount of 
L..212, Is. 4d. Scots. 

On the 29th December 1692, Mr James Hay, the first Presby- 
terian minister, was translated from Kilmalcolm to this parish. 
During his incumbency, the church received considerable repairs. 
The roof was renewed, and the north aisle, with the vault or bury- 
ing'ground under it, was repaired in the year 1697, the parish be- 
ing assessed Lbl266, 13s. 4d. Scots. Mr Hay was fifty-two years 
of age when he was admitted. In 1710, Mr James Stewart was 
elected, by unanimous consent of the minister, session, and con- 
gregation, to be assistant. In that capacity he officiated till Mr 
Hay's death, in July following. A vacancy again ensued, the 
Presbytery for nearly three years supplying the charge once in the 
fortnight. 

The famous Mr J. Robe, son of the Rev. Mr Michael Robe, mi- 
nister at Cumbernauld, was admitted minister on 24th April 1713.* 
He received a presentation from the Viscount of Kilsyth, who was 
so tenacious of his right, that neither he nor his lady would allow 
a call to be moderated in his favour. The Presbytery, being as- 
sured that the presentee was acceptable to the parish, dispensed 
with the form of a call, and ordained and admitted him. Patro- 
nage had been very recently restored by Queen Anne's ministry. 
It was under Mr Kobe's ministry, as already noticed, that the re- 
markable religious revival took place. 

On the 21st March 1754, Mr John Telfer was ordained minis- 
ter; and he continued so till his death, in March 1789. It was dur* 
ing his ministry, that the Relief secession took place. Mr Telfer 
had given offence to his session, and many of his people, by coun- 
tenancing, by his presence, the unpopular settlement of a minister 

• It is not at all likely that any formal deed of presentation was cither offered or 
aeeepted; but the fact only is ccruin, that, afier a three years vacancy, Mr llobe 
wit amicably lettled. 



164 STIBLINGSHIUE. 

at Eaglesham. He was frequently assisted, in his latter days, hi 
Mr William Bow, a probationer in the neighbourhood. In Sep- 
tember 1789, Robert Rennie, D. D., a native of the parish, was 
ordained and admitted minister. He died on the 10th of July 
1820. The present incumbent (ordained by the Presbytery of 
Brechin as minister of Dun, on the 4th December 1800,) was ad- 
mitted here on the 19th April 1821. 

The Crown has been patron since the forfeiture in 1716 ; and 
the settlements have always been harmonious. 

Eldership. — The parish has long been divided into sixteen 
parts, over each of which an elder, who is at the same time dea- 
con, presides. Most of the elders are attentive to the spiritual as 
well as the temporal affairs of their district or quarter, and are of- 
ten found prating with the afflicted. 

Schools. — There are three parochial schools, one in the town ; 
another at Chapel -green, in the West Barony ; the third at Ban- 
ton, in the east. The teacher in the town, considered as proper- 
ly the parochial schoolmaster, has a salary of L. 30, and acts as 
session-clerk. The East Barony teacher has L. 12, 6s. dd. ; the 
west L. 9. This last, commonly called Chapel-green school, has 
the bene6t of a mortification by Mr John Patrick, (a native), mer- 
chant in London, whose legacy of L. 60, placed imder the ma- 
nagement of the session and Presbytery, in the year 1723, having 
been invested in land, now yields L. 22 per annum to the teacher, 
who is bound to teach poor scholars in the barony.* Few, how- 
ever, come under that description. There is also a good house 
and school-room, built by the liberality of the late Sir Charles l5d- 
monstone, Bart, of Duntreath, and some others. Sabbath-schools 
have been established for a quarter of a century, and have been 
highly useful. One great deduction from their efficiency, doubt- 
less, is their not being on the local system ; the consequence of 
which is, that many of those children who stand most in need of 
being instructed, are not found in attendance. Of late, several 
pious individuals are using their endeavours to collect neglected 
children round their own doors, and give them instructions along 
with their own children, in numbers from eight to twelve each. 

• In 1745, this sum of L. 60, with part of the money helonging to the ses&ion, 
which had heen lent to the Laird of Gartshorc at five per cent, was laid out on ihe 
small nteaien of Culmuir, being part of the said Gartshorc lands ; and in the year 
1823, a century after the mortification, Culmuir was sold to the present proprietor 
of said lands, the part belonging to the school having increased in value to L.550, 
which at present yields L 22 per annum. As to the portion appertaining to the sea. 
tlon, it was toon spent for the good of the poor parishioners. 



KILSYTH. 165 

The small collections at the evening exercise, lately begun in the 
winter season in church, are applied towards furnishing such child- 
ren with Bibles or Testaments. At Banton the school and school- 
master's house have been rebuilt by subscription. They are 
Tery substantial and commodious. In the immediate vicinity of 
the town of Kilsyth, a new school and schoolmaster's house have 
been erected, on a handsome and commodious plan, — Sir Archi- 
bald Edmonstone, Bart, having liberally given the ground, and the 
rest of the heritors paying their proportion of the expense of the 
building. A good many children are taught gratis, the heritors 
and session, at the recommendation of the minister and session, 
paying the teacher a modified payment for a considerable number 
of children of poor or dissipated parents. Notwithstanding of this 
liberality, too many are very imperfectly taught ; the poverty, or 
shameful recklessness of the parents tempting them to apprentice 
the poor children at the early ages of eight, nine, and ten ! In this 
case, the children are apt to lose soon the little they have learnt. 
Id some cases, they attend an evening school by way of redeem* 
iDg time ; but this is a very partial remedy, and often not improved. 
The intellectual system of mental and moral tuition has been 
practised here, for eight or ten years past, with considerable spirit 
and success. 

There are usually, in the town, two schools on the teachers' own 
adventure. One of these, in connection with the Relief, has, for 
two years, had a kind of endowment from a wealthy member of that 
body, — the teacher being bound to give schooling to the poor of the 
Relief persuasion, either gratis, or for a small payment. In the East 
Barony, there is a female teacher, who has generally about forty 
scholars, whom she is very assiduous and successful in instructing. 
Nearly 600 scholars are in regular course of instruction at the 
schools of this parish. The week-day evening classes succeed 
well. In the parochial school in the town, there are 1 i Latin 
scholars, 2 Greek, and 5 French. 

Savings Bank. — A savings bank was opened in September 
1829 : and the following statement will show what measure of sue- 
cess has attended it. 



Received to 11th August 1830, 

l}o. do. 1831, 

Do. do. 1892, 

Do. do. 1833, 

Do. do. 1834, 

Do. do. 1835, 

Do. do. 1836, 

Do. do. 1837, 



L. 128 14 10 and disbursed L. 19 I 7 

183 16 8 do. 84 15 8 

180 16 84 do. 69 J3 

268 16 5 do. 236 14 4 

476 5 10 do. 216 14 7 

633 4 8 do. 221 18 6 

665 1 10 do. 371 18 11} 

645 15 do. 457 1 1 



166 STIRLINGSHIRE. « 

There are, of female depositors in the savings' bank, 85 con- 
sisting of servants, weavers, and tambourers ; and a few who come 
under no particular designation, &c. There are, of male deposi- 
tors, 65, consisting of weavers, (about 30), servants, labourers, 
masons, wrights, and other trades. The remainder is composed of 
retired and professional men. Tliere are 39 boys and girls. 

The number of sums below L.4 Sterling is, by the balance 
sheet of August 1837, 55 ; above L.4 and below L.7, 37 ; and 
from L.7 to L.10, 96. The stock at 31st January 1838, was 
L.1621, lis. 3d. Sterling. 

Friendly Societies. — Friendly societies have long been known 
here, and, with the exception of one or two failures from wrong 
calculation, have done much good. The Benevolent Society was 
instituted in 1796. The number of members has, for many years, 
varied from 100 to 130. The highest rate of aliment is 5s. per 
week; and L.3 is paid to the widow of a member deceased. 
The annual contribution is 6s. The funds of the society amount 
to above L.260. The average sum paid to members for the 
last eight years, is about L. 40 per annum. Upwards of L.600 
have been expended in supporting the members, since its com- 
mencement. The Benefit Union has been for nine years in a 
prosperous state. It was instituted in the year 1828, and its laws 
brought under the Acts of Parliament in 1834. The number of 
its members is at present, 200. The funds, L. 170. At the 
age of twenty-one years, the payment of 5s. annually entitles the 
members to receive 5s. weekly, when confined to bed ; and 3s. 
weekly, when laid aside from work, but not bedfast. These aro 
valuable societies ; and it must be confessed that our people seem 
to be more fully alive to their utility than to that of the savings* 
bank, which has not realized the amount of good anticipated. 
There is one society among the miners in Banton, which has not 
done so well, from the bad custom of the members meeting in a 
public-house, and indulging in spirituous liquors. This practice, 
however, has now been corrected. 

Libraries. — A reading Society has long been in existence. 
The Sabbath School Society has a library adapted to the young. 
In the two Baronies, two years ago, libraries were formed, the Irish 
Cheap Library, commonly called the Kildare Library, of 79 vo- 
lumes, forming the nucleus. They are supported by donations 
and subscriptions of small sunlsand regular contributions of 3d. per 
quarter. A considerable collection of excellent booki^ has been 
lately presented to the parish. 



KILSYTH. 167 

Temperance Societies, — The writer of this article, after much 
deliberation, saw it to be his duty to form one of these associa- 
tions in 1829, at the same time with the savings bank, to which 
it was well fitted to be, and to which it has been, a useful auxili- 
ary. Much good has been done. But the lamentable fact, that 
there are not fewer than 22 houses or shops licensed to sell ale 
and spirits, to a population of less than 3000, shows that the vice 
of intemperance still prevails to a woful extent The quarriers 
and colliers, with a few very honourable exceptions, continue fear- 
fully addicted to drinking spirits, especially on pay-nights, and when 
there is any cessation from working. Females as well as men are 
much addicted to this ruinous vice. 

Poor and Parochial ProvisioTL — Until the year 181 1, the interest 
of a fiind of nearly L. 300, and the weekly collections and small 
dues, as mortclotb, &c. were found, in ordinary times, sufficient to 
supply the necessities of the poor ; but since that period, it has 
been found necessary to combine the system of partial assessment 
with weekly collections. The landed proprietors meet regularly 
twice a year with the session, and, after examining the lists of the 
poor, and correcting the lists as circumstances require, agree to 
stent themselves for such sum as may be necessary to meet the 
expenditure of the coming season. The tenants and householders 
are not assessed, but are encouraged to give their contributions 
at the church door. Besides this systematic plan of supplying 
the weekly and occasional poor, private beneficence is exercised, 
and it is pleasant to notice, that, in cases of extreme and unex- 
pected distress, it is usual for kind neighbours to go round, and 
to collect for the relief of the sufferers. 

The weekly list of poor contains about 60, chiefly aged widows ; 
the occasional poor are about the same number. The heritors 
Tery liberally allow surgical aid in certain cases; and this is a re- 
gular item of their annual accounts. This parish has been more 
than usually burdened with cases of poor lunatics, deaf and dumb, 
and orphans. An accumulation of such cases in 1811, with the 
low state of trade, caused the introduction of the mode of partial 
assessment : nor does there seem any possibility of avoiding it. 
Were all the proprietors residing constantly, and attending the ordi- 
nances of religion in the Established Church, the assessment could 
at once be dispensed with ; but otherwise, the thing is quite out of 
Che question. Neither do we find that the mode we follow, has the 
efiect of bringing into desuetude private benevolence. Had we 



168 STIRLINGSHIRK. 

no luch regular mode of supply, our elders and deacons would have 
lo become beggars general for the poor of their respeciivo quar- 
ters. The collection, exclusive of extraordinary days, brings from 
12s. to 15s. weekly. The Banton church has a collection every six 
weeks, for the poor of the district, by consent of the managers, 
without any order from the heritors. 

Collections and subscriptions for religious purposes are made 
regularly for the schemes of the General Assembly, — besides oc- 
casional collections for the Scottish Missionary, the Glasgow Bible 
Society, &c. The average amount of such collections is from 
L. 4 to Lb 5. It is but justice to record, that the contributions to 
the new church and school of Banton, and the liberal donation of 
the chief proprietor to the building of the new school in the town, 
will amount in all to nearly Lb 1000. In the two former of these 
works, we have no doubt been indebted to the kindness of various 
friends at a distance, who also aid us in supporting the minister, 
who was ordained in 1840, and has a bond for L. 80. The want 
of an endowment is much felt* 

Miscellaneous Obsrryatioks. 
Since the date of the last Account, several of the disadvantages 

therein referred to have been removed. 1* The principal heritor 
now generally resides in the parish, though he has been two years 
absent in England: and the residence of such a landlord is a mighty 
blessing to the poor. 2. The parish has now, what it had not then. 
Justices of the Peace, — Sir A. Edmonstone, and his factor; also 
a bailie and council. 3. The communication with Glasgow, and 
Falkirk, and Stirling is now very cheap and easy, at all seasons 
when the canal is open. Ere long, the proposed railway betwixt 
Glasgow and Edinburgh, may come within one mile of this parish. 
Gas has been introduced into our shops and places of worship. 
The church has been heated with stoves. The streets have been 
very much improved of late by levelling, removal of out-stairs, and 
nuisances. With such a command of water as we possess, and 
other advantages, it is rather surprising that we have no great pub- 
lic work of any kind. The consolation here is, that morals might 
not be improved by such erections and the consequent immigration. 

Revised and completed April 1841. 



PARISH OF BALDERNOCK. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. JOHN POLLOCK, MINISTER. • 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name^ ffc. — The name is obviously of Celtic origio, and is 8up« 

posed to be acorruption of Baldruioick, signifying Druid's-town, — a 
supposition which someDruidical remains in the parish render high- 
ly probable. History, so far back as the thirteenth century, men- 
tioDS the Galbraiths of Bathernock, a barony in the neighbour- 
hood, and seemingly a corruption of the original name ; which fa- 
mily, ending in an heiress, the estate, about the beginning of the 
fourteenth century, passed by marriage to David, son of Lord Ha- 
milton, and ancestor of the late Dr Francis Hamilton. Since that 
time, the proprietors have taken the title of Bardowie, from their 
residence in the parish. When the name Baldernock was given, 
is uncertain; but the original boundaries were very small, till the 
year 1649, when the eastern half of the parish, disjoined from 
Campsie, was annexed quoad sacra to Baldernock. The greatest 
length of the parish is four miles ; breadth, three miles. 

Boundaries^ cjrc. — In shape, it is a very irregular, three-sided 
6gure; bounded on the west side, by East Kilpatrick and Strath- 
blane ; on the south, by the rivers Allander and Kelvin, which, 
here running in different directions, the former east, the latter 
west, meet and blend on the lower part of the southern border of 
the parish, separating it from Cadder. On the side fronting north 
and east, it is bounded by Campsie. Few parishes exhibit a surface 
or soil so exceedingly diversified. It consists of three very diffe- 
rent stages, rising from the river Kelvin on the south towards Camp- 
sie; north, tapering at the east; and widening towards the west. 
The first stage contains 700 or 800 acres of rich flat dark-brown 
loam, seemingly a deposition of vegetable mould from the higher 
ground, and running alongside of the Kelvin. These grounds are 

* Drawn up by the Rev. D. MRcintyrc, A. M. i^arocliial Teacher, during the in- 
cumbencj of the late Mr M'Eweti. 



170 STIttLlNGSUIUE. 

comraoDly known by the nameof the Balmore Haughs, most of which 
are possessed by proprietors whose ancestors, in feudal times, and 
at a very moderate rent, feued from the House of Montrose, and 
resided in Balmore, but who are now, in more peaceful times, scat- 
tered along the property. The second stage gradually ascends 
towards the north, and is pleasantly diversified by gently swelling 
knolls. It contains more acres than the first, and is clay soil over 
till, which, being mixed with heavy clay and stones, is hard and 
retentive of moisture. The third, or highest stage, is at bottom a 
light sharp soil over whin-rock, with a few patches of croft and 
moss land, but towards the height is moorish ground, rising more 
than 300 feet above the level of the sea, — whence there is a com- 
manding prospect in all directions, especially towards the south. 

The whole of the parish has a southern exposure, sloping from 
north to south. Its climate is exceedingly salubrious, its inhabi- 
tants free from disease, and many of them long-lived, — the united 
ages of fourteen of them amounting to 1150 years. 

Mineralogy. — The minerals are coal, lime, ironstone, of various 
kinds, fire-clay^ pyrites, and alum-ore. The different strata of these, 
when undisturbed by incidental troubles, follow, at a certain angle, 
the general elevation of the surface, with a dip to the south or south- 
east, towards the bed of the Kelvin. Towards the north-west and 
higher grounds, these strata are cut off by the primitive rock, but, 
towards the east, they join and form a continuation of the extensive 
coal-fields of Campsie. The general thickness of the coal and 
lime, wrought here for more than 150 years, is between 3 and 4 
feet, and commonly found from 12 to 24 feet beneath the surface, 
covered with a mass of argillaceous slate traversed by bands of 
ironstone, and immediately above the lime by a stratum of calca- 
reous freestone, which is a roof to the mines. Till lately, the 
ironstone principally wrought was the common argillaceous kind, 
found in layers of from 3 to 7 inches thick; but lately, there 
has been discovered in the coal mines of Barraston, the property 
of Robert Hendry, Esq. a more valuable species of iron-ore, long 
considered peculiar to the mines near Airdrie, where it was first 
discovered by the ingenious Mr Musliet about thirty years ago, 
and proves to be a combination of iron with carbonaceous matter, 
but richer m metal than any ore yet analyzed in this part of the 
island. The fire-clav is found in a bed of from 8 to 10 feet thick, 
and, for many years, has been manufactured into bricks of a very 
superior quality, in resisting the action of the fire. The local 



BALDERNOCK. I7i 

mines afford an inexhaustible supply of pyrites and alum-ore, 
which has induced the Hurlet and Campsie Alum Company to 
establish here a copperas work, as a branch of their extensive ma- 
nufiicture. 

II. — CivfL History, 

The proprietors are numerous, and the soil has often changed 
its landlord. The principal heritors at present are, Messrs Glass- 
ford of Dougalston; Hamilton of Bardowie; Marshall of Lavrock- 
hiU; Stirling of Keir; Gray of Glenorchard ; Lennox of Wood- 
head ; Hendry of Barraston ; Gordon of Craigmaddie, &c &c. 

Parochial Registers, — The records of session bear date 1690. 
They have been very irregularly kept. 

Antiquities. — On the heights of the parish, and towards the 
north-west, the ruins of a tower of unknown size and antiquity, 
and once the mansion-house of the Galbraiths of Bathernock, lie 
behind Craigmaddie, the seat of H. Gordon, Esq. On the farm 
of Blochairn, are several oblong and circular cairns, memorials of 
ancient feuds, where, tradition says, in a battle with the Danes, 
one of their princes was slain. These ciiirns* consist of heaps of 
loose stones thrown on a circumference, sometimes of eighty yards, 
beneath which are parallel rows of flags upon edge, three or four 
feet wide, and divided into cells, six or seven feet long, lid- 
ded with flags ; and some of them contain, when opened, large 
coarse urns, with pieces of human bones. Near this, a mile 
north from the church, on the same property, are the Auld- 
wives' Lifts, consisting of three stones of similar size, standing on 
a flat of about 100 paces in diameter, surrounded by an amphi- 
theatre a few yards in height. The two under stones are of a 
prismatic form, placed along, close by each otheV, on the earth. 
The third, probably at 6rst a regular parallelepiped, and still ap- 
proaching that figure, is placed on the top of the other two, and is 
eight feet long, eleven broad, six deep, lying nearly horizontally with 
a small dip to the north. On a sequestered eminence, once sur- 
rounded by a grove of oaks, the stumps of which are still visible, 
these stones are said to resemble, in figure and position, other 
Druidical monuments, and their name to correspond with that of 
the Lifted Stone in Ireland, mentioned by Cambden, and those in 
Poitiers in France called pierres levees. 

III. — Population. 

The population has, for some time, been decreasing, and is still 

on the decline. 



172 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

In 1794 the population was 620 
IBOl 796 

1811 806 

1821 692 

1831 805 

This decrease arises from double farms, the farmers doing all 
by piece-work, by their children, and keeping as few servants as 
possible ; and also from the diminution of hands employed iu weav- 
ing. 

Persons under 15 years, . 279 

betwixt 15 and 30, 257 

30 and 50, 120 

50 and 70, 110 

above 70, . 39 

Kunaber of families, • 163 

Average No. of children to each, 2 

Average No. of births, 20 ; deaths, 12 ; marriages, 7. 

IV. — Industry. 
The great business is agriculture. Of the few weavers, many in 

harvest are thus employed, and most oftheir children have chosen 
it instead of the loom. 



Bachelors above 50 years, . 8 

Widowers do. • II 

Unmarried women above 45, 14 

Blind, insane, &c. . .12 
Proprietors above L.50 per annum, 27 

Inhabited houses, . . 150 

Uninhal>ited do. . • 14 



Males employed in agriculture, 90 

Male servants above 20 years, 21 

Female do. . . 32 

Male servants under 20, . 16 



.Males employed in manufiwture, 21 

In retail trade, . • 21 

Professional men, • 4 

Others not included, . 12 



Arable ground, 3100 ; Wood, 240 ; Roads, water, Ac, 462 ; Total imp. acres, 3800 

Rent. — Average rent of arable land per acre L.2. Cow's grass, 
from L.4 to L.5. There is some land, in the low grounds, rented 
at L.4 per acre. 

Raw Produce. — 

OaU, 584 acres, yielding 3504 bolls, at 16%. per boll, L 2083 

Wheat, 183 1464 at L. 1,8s. 

Barley, 45 315 at L. 1, 2s, 

Potatoes, 170 5950 at I Is. 

Beans, 21 126 at 16s. 

Pasture, 1100 at L.l, I0«^. per acre, 

Hay, 335 yielding 46150 stones, at 70$. per 100, 

'J urnip, 42 1260 tons, at L.l per ton, 

Fallow, 20 acres. 

L. 12377 13 

Average annual output for three years, lime and coal : 

Lime, 4400 chalders, at 12s. per chalder, 2640 

Coal, 7760 cart loads, five loads each, at 7d. per load, 1 131 13 4 



L2083 








2049 


12 





346 


10 





3272 


10 





100 


16 





1650 








), 1615 


5 





1260 









L. 16149 6 4 
Assuming for labour, &c. two thirds, 10766 4 2 



L.5383 2 2 

The farms are small, enclosed, in the lower grounds, by hedges, 
and in the upper, by stone dikes. The rotation in cropping gene- 
rally is, 1. One year's oats from lea ; 2. Potatoes drilled with dung ; 
0. Wheat ; 4, Clover and ryegrass in hay. Afterwards, pasture for 



BALDERNOCK, 173 

two years. Draining is a good deal practised, especially where 
the proprietor occupies ihe land. In this, a few spirited landlords 
assist their tenants; and the drains are generally deep narrow 
casts filled with stones, and running into a main drain substantially 
built. Still much remains to be done in this way. 

Leaui. — Leases are generally for nineteen years^and are consi- 
dered favourable for the farmer. The common Scotch iron plough 
is used ; but frequent cropping, and fine, not deep, furrows, render 
it highly probable, that the old custom of having three or four 
horses yoked in the plough, instead of two, will be adopted, especial- 
ly in the upper and tilly parts of the parish, as the crops are by no 
means so heavy as in former years. In the lower grounds, less 
manure and labour are necessary. Great crops are there always 
certain, and fallow has been known to produce twenty bolls of 
wheat per acre. Before the embankment of the Kelvin, all this 
was greatly counterbalanced by inundations, the flood-mark in 
the Balmore Haughs being 245 acres ; but this is now greatly re- 
medied oy a substantial embankment and a tunnel on the mouth 
of a small rivulet running into the Kelvin from the heights, 
and, like the Kelvin, during very heavy and constant rains, or a 
rapid thaw, descending with great impetuosity, and occasioning 
great damage to the banks, or often breaking them. Plough- 
ing begins early in February, and a Ploughing Society, institut- 
ed some years ago, has produced some good effects from compe- 
tition. Upon the whole, however, the condition of farmers and 
their farms is worse than it was fifteen years ago ; since which time 
farming has gradually deteriorated. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Glasgow, the nearest market-town, is seven or eight miles dis- 
tant, from and to which, there is neither coach, post, nor carrier, 
which is against the diffusion of useful knowledge and information : 
letters, books, newspapers, and other communications being either 
not received at all, or read at an immense trouble and expense. A 
new line of road, leading from the Balfron lineto Glasgow, through 
the west end of the parish, has long been talked of, is surveyed, 
and is soon likely to be formed. 

There will then be two good turnpike roads, one running the 
length of the parish from west to east, the other the breadth of 
it, leading from Balfron road north, to Allander toil south-^est, 
and thence to Glasgow. Owing to the diversified surface of the 
parish, many other roads are necessary, so many that it is impos- 



174 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

sible, by the conversion of the statute labour money, to keep them 

in repair. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church, built in 1795, for 406 sitter^ 
and still in good repair, is by no means conveniently situated, 
standing in the north-west part of the parish, a mile and a half from 
the centre. This is also the most thinly populated quarter, and 
about three miles distant from some of the parishioners* The 
living is 63 bolls of oat-meal, L.dd in money, the Government 
bounty, — a manse, built in 1803, substantial and in good repair, 
1 1 acres of glebe, and 7^ of these arable. The present incumbent, 
the Rev. John Pollock, was admitted in 1838. His predecessors 
were, the Rev. H. MoncreifT, admitted 1836; Rev. J. M^Ewen, 
1804; Rev. Dr Cooper, admitted 1783; the Rev. Messrs Tay- 
lor, Carrick, Colquhoun, and Wallace, who was. admitted at the 
Revolution, 1688. 72 families, 240 persons of all ages; 174 
Communicants, belong to the Established Church ; 39 families to 
Dissenters. There are 3 Episcopalians, 8 Catholics, and 30 fa- 
milies, that go to no place of worship. 

Education. — The parish schoolmaster has the legal accom- 
modation, and the maximum salary. The school is sufficiently 
commodious, and within reach of the whole parish, being a mile 
nearer the centre than the church ; but the ill repair and danger- 
ous state of some of the roads, render it unavailable to many. 
Reading, writing, and a little arithmetic, constitute the whole of 
the education of the people. Most of the children get little time 
even for these, and there is no great desire for more. The ave- 
rage number of scholars is 50. 

The parish contributed L.50 to the Lunatic Asylum in 1813, 
and previously to the Infirmary of Glasgow, to which they have 
the common right. The Baldcrnock Humane Friendly Society 
was instituted in 1783; approved of by an extraordinary general 
meeting, March 28, 1809 ; confirmed according to Act of Par- 
liament, and has a stock of L.500. Late decisions, finding mem- 
bers liable for life, and compelling some, who had withdrawn, to 
pay up accounts, while they have retained many members contrary 
to their own inclination, have induced others to keep back ; and 
entrance to the society is now rare. This society has been a bless- 
ing to many, and, were it encouraged, would continue to be much 
more so than it is. 

Poor, — The poor's roll has, for some time, been on the in- 
crease. The average number of paupers, for the last three years. 



ALVA. 175 

has been 16 ; average sum to each, L. 4 per annum. The funds 
are, L. 20 per annum', being interest on bond of L. 500, accumulat- 
ed by donations and savings, and average collections per annum, 
L.16, 10s. 9d. ; annual expense, L. 64; annual income, L. 36, 
IDs. deficiency, L.27, 98. 3d. 

Fairs. — Bardowie fair is held 6th June, for sale of milk cows, 
and showing stallions. It is the only parish fair, and it has almost 
dwindled to a shadow. 

Ak-houses, — There are seven ale-houses in the parish, and a dis- 
tillery erected some years ago. 

Ae/.— -Fuel is supplied from the coalworks in the parish, with 
a very few exceptions, where it is got from the neighbourhood of 
Glasgow by the Canal. 

February 1841. 



PARISH OF ALVA. 

PRESBYTERY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. ANDREW BROWN, MINISTER.* 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The name of this parish in ancient records is written 

Alueth, Aivath, or Alveth : this last mode of spelling is to be 
seen upon a tomb-stone in the church yard, dated a. d. 1632. 
The word is doubtless of Gaelic origin, and is probably from Ail- 
bheach, rocky^ an epithet very characteristic of the bills around. 
The present spelling, Alva, has been in use since the beginning 
of last century. 

Situation^ Boundaries^ Extent^ §•<:. — This barony or parish be- 
longed, in ancient times, to Clackmannanshire; but since the begin- 
ning of the seventeenth century, has been attached to Stirlingshire, 
although upwards of four miles distant from the nearest point of the 
latter county. Since the passing of the Reform Bill, Alva has been 
politically incorporated with Clackmannan, but is still absurdly con- 
nected with the county of Stirling, for judicial purposes. It is sur- 
rounded, on all sides, by the shire of Clackmannan, except on the 
north, where it is bounded by a part of Perthshire. Tillicoultry 

* Drawn up by J. D. Thomson, Surg(K>n. 



176 STIRLINOSIIIRK. 

is the adjacent parish on the east, Logie on the west, Blackford 
on the north ; and the river Devon, forming the southern boundary 
of Alva, divides it from the parishes of Alloa and Clackmannan. 
The lands of Alva extend over a very considerable portion of that 
fine range of hills distinguished by the name of Ochils; and the 
remaining grounds stretch over part of the valley lying at their 
base, and watered by the river Devon. From east to west, the 
parish measures somewhat beyond two miles and a-balf, and from 
north to south betwixt four and five miles. 

The Alva bills are, beyond comparison, the grandest of the whole 
Ochil range. They are not so rugged and inaccessible as those 
immediately to the west in the parish of Logie, but they present 
a bolder and more majestic outline, while, in luxuriance and 
beauty, they excel all around them. Bencloch or Bencleugh, the 
highest of the Ochils, is situated at the north-east extremity of 
the parish, and extends partly into Tillicoultry, reaching the 
height of 2420 feet above the level of the Devon. The view from 
the summit of Bencloch is most extensive and beautiful, com- 
prehending the whole picturesque range of the Grampians, part 
of thirteen counties, and several towns. 

The Devon, a river of small size, but of surpassing beauty, has 
its source among these hills, in the parish of Blackford, Perth- 
shire. This river, according to the industrious Chalmers, was 
formerly called Dovan, and is so written in a charter granted by 
Robert III. to the burgh of Inverkeithing. The Devon flows, at ' 
first, almost due east from its source towards Glendevon, lying in 
the centre of the Ochils. At the village called Crook of De- 
von, and near the church of Fossaway, it makes a sudden turn 
westward, and, passing through the parishes of Muckhart, Dollar, 
and Tillicoultry, gently glides along the southern boundary of Alva 
parish. The romantic waterfalls and exquisite scenery of this 
little river, have long been attractions to the lovers of nature. 
The most interesting part is its wonderful passage through arch- 
ing rocks, where the hoarse music of waters has acquired for this 
Instts naturte^ the epithet of Rumbling Bridge ; or where, a little 
further on, amid a series of cascades, we find the water producing 
the curious excavation of that never empty boiler, the Cauldron 
Linn. Nor can the passing traveller fail to admire also the wan- 
derings of this stream, after it descends into the valley east of Dol- 
lar, whence, gliding in a serpentine course, and in a deep bed with 
Utile fall, it proceeds towards the Forth. It is singular that the 



ALVA. 177 

Devon, after having performed a circuitous route of about thirty 
miles, should finish its course, nearly opposite the point at which it 
first arose, reaching the Forth exactly where the latter assumes 
the character of a frith, two miles above Alloa. 

Through each of the glens which divide the Alva hills, stream- 
lets, diversified by small waterfalls, descend towards the valley. 
The most interesting of these is called Alva burn, a rivulet of ex- 
cellent water, which, over abrupt and precipitous rocks, forces its 
passage, and falling in ihree beautiful cascades, seeks repose where 
the ground becomes soft and level, in a capacious linn. Separat- 
ing the West from the Middlehill, this streamlet adds to the 
beauty of a romantic glen, from which, issuing at the foot of the 
bills, it runs along the eastern side of the village. A fine plan- 
tation of forest trees grows on the steep bank to the east, affording 
shelter from the north-east winds, so violent in this neighbourhood. 
The Alva, or Strude glen, as it is generally called, was opened 
up by its late proprietor, James Raymond Johnstone, Esq. who 
had part of the rock blasted to excavate a walk through the ro- 
tviantic crags. The path conducts to a waterfall about 80 feet 
liigh, above which is an excavation or hole in the rock, worn dur- 
ing the lapse of ages, of which there is a tradition that it once af- 
forded refuge to an outlaw. Farther back in the hill, and inacces- 
sible to all but the adventurous, is another arch of rocks over a wa- 
terfall, which is the most singular and wild scene among the Ochils. 
The water of the stream not only contributes much to ornament 
the landscape, but also affords a powerful arm to industry, by turn- 
ing machinery in the village. Where the water finds repose in a 
large linn, a dam has been constructed at much labour and ex- 
pense, for retaining a collection against times of summer drought 
and scarcity. Water-troughs or boxes for conveying the water to 
the mills, run along the side of the walk, forming as it were a bar- 
ricade from the precipitous depths of the ravine. Here we have 
a splendid example of man's power to control nature, and subject 
her to the dominion of his rational faculties. This little moun- 
tain-torrent, which for many centuries had rolled on, unheeded and 
unheard, ** singing to itself its own quiet tune," amid the lone and 
unbreathing solitude of the Ochils, and which perchance only drew 
the eye of the passing traveller by its beauty, — now. turns the busy 
wheels of commerce, and not only dispenses life to the vegetable 
world, but to man himself throughout a flourishing district of 
country. 

STIRLING. M 



178 STIHLINOSIIIRE. 

Climatty 4'c> — "1 tie climate in this district is mild, but variable. 
Snow seldom lies for any length of time among these hills. It is 
remarkable, however, that at the bottom of a ridge of rock, near 
to the summit of Bencloch, where it is sheltered from every wind, 
snow is frequently seen in the month of June. From the singu- 
lar appearance of the narrow and extended sheet of snow, it has 
received the fanciful name of Ladi/ Alva's Web. 

Geology^ Mineralogy^ <$'<?• — These hills are all of the second- 
ary trap formation. The onyx and other pebbles have long 
been known and worked into ornaments, and the Ochil Eye 
pebble is peculiar to this range of hills. They are found in 
stony crevices, and the best specimens of the Perth lapidaries 
come from this quarter. Heavy spar is also found in one of 
the glens ; and that part of the Ochils contained in the neigh- 
bouring parishes of Logic on the west, and Tillicoultry and Dollar 
on the east, as well as Alva, are known to have rich veins of cop- 
per, lead, and iron ; although further investigation is required to 
ascertain their value. But that for which the hills of Alva are 
particularly distinguished, is the valuable veins of silver glance they 
are known to possess. About the years 1710 to 1715, Sir John 
Erskine, by means of miners from Leadhills, discovered a very 
valuable vein of silver, in the glen that separates * the Middlehili 
from the Woodhill. Its first appearance was in small strings of 
silver ore, which being followed, led to a large mass, part having the 
character of malleable silver, and found upon trial to produce as 
much as twelve ounces of. silver from fourteen ounces of ore. A 
sum not greater than from L.40 to L.50 had been expended, when 
this discovery was made. During ihe space of thirteen or fourteen 
weeks, it has been credibly affirmed, that the value produced was 
L.4000 per week ; and it has been alleged that Sir John drew 
from L. 40,000 to L.50, 000, exclusive of ore which was supposed 
to have been purloined to considerable amount by the workmen. 
Very soon, however, the silver ore began to appear in smaller 
quantities, and symptoms of lead and baser metals being present, 
'farther researches were laid aside for the time. I'he specimens of 
silver glance then found are rich and beautiful, and the pure virgin 
silver is observed to adhere in slender strings to the spar, with a va- 
riety of fanciful and irregular forms. In the year 1767, Lord Alva, 
nephew to Sir John Erskine, caused a pair of communion cups to 
be made for the use of the church of Alva, from some of the re- 
mains of that ore in his possession. On these the following in- 



ALVA. 179 

scription is engraven, " Sacris in Ecclesia S. Servani, apud AU 
?eth, A. D. 1767, ex argento indigena, D, D. C. q. Jacobus Er- 
skine/' 

About the year 1759, Charles Erskine, Lord Justice- Clerk, 
&ther of Lord Alva, having, a few years before, purchased this ba- 
rony from his nephew, Sir Henry Erskine, revived the working of 
the mines. A company, consisting of kinsmen and friends of the 
family, subscribed a moderate capital, and carried on this work 
with considerable industry. They pursued the course of the vein, 
where the silver ore had been found, a great way beyond the old 
workings, but without success. Although occasional small strings 
of metal appeared, there was nothing important enough to en- 
courage or reward their exertions. A shaft or sump, as miners 
term it, was made to the depth of several fathoms, immediately 
below the bottom of the waste from whence the former rich mass 
was taken, and a drifi; carried on in the direction of the silver vein 
upon thai level ; but this also failed to accomplish the object. To 
facilitate these operations, however, it had been resolved to drive 
a level at a considerable distance nearer the bottom of the hill, 
for the purpose of draining the water from the works above. In 
executing this part of the scheme, the workmen had not advanced 
far into the side of the hill, when a large mass of ore was discovered. 
This, at first, they thought silver, but upon chemical examination it 
was found to be cobalt. A large quantity of this was brought out, 
and a great part of it used in the manufacture of porcelain, at this 
time begun in Prestonpans in East Lothian. The beautiful deep 
blue prepared from cobalt, was used to colour china and glass, and 
showed no inferiority to that procured from the mines of Saxony. 
A quantity of cobalt was afterwards found among the rubbish dug 
from the mines fifty years before, which Lord Alva caused to be 
washed after the manner practised by miners, and obtained an ad- 
ditional quantity. The work was carried on to a great length from 
where the mass of cobalt was got ; but spar and other vein stuff 
appearing, thie enterprise was again abandoned. During the time 
these works were carried on, a very accurate survey of all the dif- 
ferent veins of metals discovered in the hills of Alva, was made by 
the agent for the Company, who possessed considerable skill in the 
practical art of mining. The several appearances and qualities of 
the different ores, together with the precise directions of the veins, 
and other circumstances elucidated, were all accurately taken down 
by the agent in a register or journal, now in the possession of James 



180 .STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Johnstone, Esq. present proprietor of this barony. From these re* 
gisters, it appears there are not fewer than fourteen or fifteen yeiiu 
among the Alva hills, which, from the trials made, contain ores 
of silver, lead, copper, iron, and cobalt. 

Coaly Sfc. — On the south bank of the Devon, immediately oppo- 
site the lands of Alva, it is well known that the finest coal in this 
country is procured, belonging to the Earls of Mar and Mansfield. 
The same seams of coal, extending to the north bank of the De- 
von, on the estate of Alva, were worked about a century ago, by 
Sir John Erskine, with considerable advantage, and the pits and 
other vestiges of this work are still to be seen. With a noble spi- 
rit of enterprize, that gentleman projected a canal to run along the 
banks of the Devon, and convey his coal to the Forth, from thence 
to be exported to a proper market. About sixty years since, ac- 
curate surveys of the Devon were made, as high as the parish of 
Dollar, with a view to facilitate the transporting of coal belonging 
to the different proprietors on either bank of the river, by means 
of a canal ; but this intention was not carried forward. It is evi- 
dent, from the smooth and gentle current of the stream in many 
places, that oiie entire canal might be unnecessary. It was generally 
believed that the coal seam here extended from one extremity of 
the parish to the other, but recent attempts in the west and south- 
west parts, carried on under the superintendence of a scientific 
gentleman, proved unsuccessful. Still, there can be little doubt of 
the existence of coal, where it was sought for, although it dips far 
below the surface. Indeed, this parish is part of the great coal field 
of Scotland, which crosses the island diagonally from east to west« 
Bounded on the north by the river Eden, near St Andrews, it 
goes to the south parts of Kinross-shire, and from thence sweeps 
towards the Ochils at Dollar, and stretches westward along the 
foot of the hills, till it arrives at Craigleith, the westmost of the 
Alva range. Here it makes a sudden turn southward, crossing 
the river Forth, below Stirling, and may now be traced by Kilsyth, 
Campsie, and Kilpatrick, till it falls into the Clyde above Dunbar- 
ton. 

Zoology. — The most rare animal found in this parish, is that spe- 
cies of hawk (Falco peregrinus) used in ancient times for the di- 
version of hunting. From time immemorial, this bird has had its 
residence in a very high perpendicular rock, called Craigleith, pro* 
jecting from the brow of the Westhill of Alva. Only one pair, it 



ALVA. 181 

is aflSrmed by the villagers, build a nest in the front of this preci- 
pice. These hatch their young annually, and when the progeny 
are of proper age, the parents compel them to seek a new habita- 
tion ; death alone obliging the original pair to resign their ances- 
tral habitation, which falls to the next survivors. In a former 
age, when ** lords and ladies gay" were fond of the sport of fal- 
conry, a bird of this kind was deemed very valuable, and to the 
present day, it is in high repute with some of our nobility, who send 
from a great distance to procure specimens of the breed. From 
this place the beautiful and unfortunate Queen Mary got falcons, 
soon after her arrival from France. The Duke of Athol, king's 
falconer in Scotland^ sent for these birds, and not long ago a pair 
of them were sent by James Johnstone, Esq. to the Duke of St 
Albans, who, as king's falconer in England, still keeps up the 
xport of hunting with them. Eagles are occasionally seen among 
the Ochils in this neighbourhood. 

Botany^ Sfc. — Alva is distinguished from the surrounding country 
by the luxuriance of its forests and plantations. The front of the 
Woodhill, on which stands the house of Alva, is clothed with the 
Yichest varieties of trees. The late Sir John Erskine, some time 
1>efore 1720, planted most of those which surround the enclosures 
immediately below the house. The east and west sides of the 
hill, immediately below the house, were planted by Lord Alva, to 
which very large additions have been annually made by the sub- 
sequent proprietors. The hill, which is fully 1600 feet above the 
'erel of the sea, is now planted within 200 yards of the summit. The 
pleasure-grounds and plantations are beautiful and extensive, and the 
appearance of the wooded hill reminds the traveller of the mo- 
nastery near Florence, a description of which is given by the poet 
Xf ilton. These fine plantations are upon the hedgerows of the 
Several enclosures, and on the brow of the Woodhill where the 
Kouse stands. They are diversified by the oak, the elm, the ash, 
^be beech, the larch, and many varieties of the pine. The ash 
trees are remarkable for size and strength, and fair proportion. 
Many of the oaks are venerable for their hoar antiquity, and be- 
fore their stately forms and extended boughs, the other giants of 
the forest bow their diminished heads. The approaches from 
the two lodges, wind up beautifully towards the house, and from 
the house to the village church, which is nearly a mile, the rows 
of trees on each side form an umbrageous and delightful avenue. 
There is here an admirable and hitherto unexplored field for 



182 STlKLINGSHiKE. 

the botanist to examine. Almost every mo&s of the class Crypto^ 
gamia is seen among the hills, also a great variety of what is rare 
and useful belonging to the Phanerogamia. 

II. — Civil History. 

Village. — The village of Alva is situated near the base of the 
Westhill. It does not appear certain when it was begun lo be 
built« but we learn from the chartulary of Cambuskenneth, that 
Alva was a parish nearly 550 years ago, and probably a village of 
minor consequence existed at the same time. In the year 1795 
the village was only about one-half its present size, and contained 
130 families, including a few single persons, each of whom oc« 
cupied part of a house. Towards the end of the seventeenth or 
beginning of the eighteenth century, Sir John Erskine, then pro- 
prietor, granted feus of a small parcel of ground to several inhabi* 
tants, on which they built cottages and laid out gardens. A plan 
seems to have been formed by Sir John, to build a village in the 
form of a square, two sides of which appear to have been actual* 
ly completed, but the other houses have been set down at random, 
or wherever a convenient spot for a garden could be obtained. 
About the year 1767, Lord Alva, resolving to enlarge the village, 
granted feus to those willing to build, and in one season a com- 
plete row of new houses, amounting to 20, was erected, each house 
having a small garden of a few falls, equal in breadth to the ex- 
tent of the front of the house. A few years afterwards, another 
row of houses, parallel to the former, and with gardens laid out in 
the same manner, was completed. The rate at which the ground 
was feued, was at first lds.'4d. per fall, or 36 square yards, but it 
advanced by degrees to 15s. and 16s. per fall, as the premium or 
purchase^money, together with fourpence the fall of annual feu- 
duty. Taking the medium rate of i5s. it will amount to L. ltK> 
Sterling per acre, as the price of the ground, and L. !2, 13s. 4d. as 
the annual rent to the superior. 

House of Alva, — The house of Alva, the seat of James John- 
stone, Esq., is about a mile east of the village, and is delightfully 
situated on an eminence projecting from the Woodhill near its 
base. The height of the projecting part where the house stands, 
is 220 feet above the level of the Devon, and Woodhill rises be- 
hind it to the height of 1400 feet higher, making in all 1620 feet. 
The Woodhill is richly ornamented with plantations, and its sum- 
mit Affords a most extensive prospect to the south, east, and west. 
The north-west view is interrupted by the hill of Dalmyot ; but 



ALVA. 183 

the mouth of the Frith of Forth, the Bass, North-Berwick Law, 
with the wiodings of the Forth, the coasts of Fife and East Lo- 
thian, can easily be descried from the top of Woodhill, behind 
the house of Alva. 

Proprietors of Alva. — The estate of Alva was anciently posses- 
md by the Stirlings of Calder in Clydesdale. From Nisbet's first vo- 
lume of Heraldry, we learn that ^^ Sir J. Menteth, son of Sir Wal- 
ler Menteth, of Rusky, married Marion Stirling, daughter and 
coheir to Sir John Stirling, of Calder in Clydesdale, and with 
her he got ye lands of Kerse and Alveth (Alva), for which ye 
family carried ye buckler for the name of Stirling, and flourish- 
ed for many years." — Sir William Menteth or Menteath of Al- 
va, married Helen Bruce, daughter to the laird of Airth, and his 
SOD, Sir William Menteth, married Agnes Erskine, daughter to 
Alexander Lord Erskine, whose successors afterwards, through 
right of their mother, inherited the Earldom of Mar. The Coun- 
tess of Mar and of Kelly is a descendant of the family of Menteth 
of Rusky. By the intermarriage before alluded to, it is highly 
probable the Alva property went to the Bruce, and afterwards 
to the Erskine family. In a. d. 1620 it went to Sir Charles Ers- 
kine, fifth son of John sixth Earl of Mar. His great grandson. Sir 
Henry Erskine of Alva, father to the present Earl of Rosslyn, 
sold it in 1759 to his uncle. Lord Justice- Clerk, called Lord Tin- 
waldy whose son, James Erskine, a Senator of the College of Jus- 
tice, inherited it, with the title of Lord Alva. He was one of the 
most energetic proprietors, with the exception of the Bruces, who 
founded the present mansion and church. Lord Alva sold the 
estate in 1775 to John Johnstone, Esq. son of Sir James John- 
stone, Bart, of Westerhall, Dumfries-shire, (brother to Sir Wil- 
liam Pulteney,) whose grandson is the present proprietor. Sir 
John and Sir Charles Erskine, two of the Alva proprietors, were 
both killed when abroad a. d. 1746. In the church-yard of Al- 
va, there is a mausoleum built by the first proprietor of Alva, of 
the Westerhall family, similar to one which he had erected in 
Dumfries shire, to the memory of his father, Sir James Johnstone. 
The ancestral vault in the church still belongs to the Erskine fa- 
mily, together with several marble monuments. One to the Lord 
Justice-Clerk is characterized by classic taste and purity of style. 
Antiquities. — Near to the church several of those large stones^ 
often found in Scotland, supposed to be the relics of Drudical days, 
were seen to a late date, and in the neighbouring parish of Logic some 



184 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

of these memorials of other times are still standing. Our forefiei- 
thers, wc know, were wont to set up a stone of remembrance to 
commemorate any battle or signal event, or more frequently to 
mark the grave of a hero. In the works ascribed to Ossian, this 
custom is often alluded to, as when the bard, and Toscar, his bro- 
ther, were sent by Fingal to signalize a victory by raising up the 
^' grey-stone on the heath." One of these records of the past was 
dug up, some years ago, in a 6eld adjacent to the glebe, lying on 
its flat surface, and beneath it was found a human jaw-bone so large 
as to be attributed to a giant. Another of these stones was long 
to be seen in a neighbouring enclosure, standing erect, with an in- 
scription, so indistinct as not to be legible. The village vulcan, 
in his vain attempts to decypher it, got into a towering passion, and 
with his forehammer completely destroyed the inscription, already 
almost worn away by time's effacing fingers. The spirit of the 
Vandals is not yet dead. A few years since, while some persons 
were digging in the northern part of the parish, probably the site 
of the earliest buildings here, and called Strude, they excavated 
a number of human remains. The rubbish in this spot led to the 
.belief that a cemetery, and probably a Ronuin Chapel, had once 
stood there, in times now lost in the mists of ages. 

'* Pulverc vix tcctae potcrunt monstrarc ruinac.** 

At the northern extremity of Queenshaugh, St Ninians, a curious 
relic was, about a. d. 1790, dragged out of the river. It was a brass 
collar, with the inscription, ^^ Alexander Stewart found guilty of 
death for theft at Perth, 5 Dccemder 1701, and gifted by the Jus- 
ticiary as a perpetual servant to Sir John Aresken of Alva.*' This 
relic is in possession of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland. 

III. — Population. 
The following tables will show the gradual growth of the popu- 
lation : — 



Population in 1791, 


611 


1801, 


787 


1811, 


921 


1821, 


1197 


1831, 


1300 


1836. 


1470 



In 1821, under 15 years of age, males, 237, females, 208 
betwixt 15 and 30, do. 135 do. 149 
30 and 50, do. 109 do. 127 
50 and 70, do. 44 do. 82 
upwards of 70, do. 16 do. 9 

In 1821, ihe parish contained of males, 598, females, 599,— total, 1197 
In 1831, males, 641, females, 659,— total, 1300 

In 183], the number of families resident was . . 288 

children in each family averaged, . 8^ 

r> 



ALVA. 185 

Id 1881, the number of inhabited homes, was 218 

houses uninhabited or building, 8 

Tlie average of marriages for the last 3 years is . . 18 

births registered for the last 7 years is 25 

deaths registered for the last 7 years is 28| 

It appears from the above tables, that a very rapid increase in 
the population has taken place of late, — it having been almost doub- 
led in the last thirty years, and an evident cause for this is the great 
recent improvements in manufactures. In 1801, only one woollen 
mill was established, and now there are eight mills, besides many 
lesser places of manufacture. Formerly, the manufacture of the 
district was confined to serges, plaidings, blanketings, and coarse 
stuffs for the West India negroes ; now, in addition to these, car- 
pets, shawls and trowser cloths, are made for foreign and home 
consumption. . 

At present, the village contains 1 surgeon, 2 schoolmasters, 13 
retail shopkeepers, 2 bakers, 2 butchers, who kill once a week, 4 
blacksmiths, 5 shoemakers, 2 wrights, 2 tailors, 1 1 masons, 5 car- 
ters, 1 slater, 1 tinsmith, 1 turner, 1 cooper, 1 engineer, 2 mill- 
wrights, 18 mechanics, 7 licensed retailers of spirits. About 50 
hands are employed in agriculture in the parish, and nearly 600 in 
the woollen manufactures. The land is divided betwixt 4 farmers 
and 2 sheep-farmers, and the number of woollen manufacturers, 
having factories, is 7, and 24 have a business on a smaller scale. 
A carrier goes to Stirling and Glasgow once a week, and there is 
a post-office supported by private subscription, for the convenience 
Df the manufacturers. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — From the description given of the lands of Alva, 
it will be seen that they naturally divide themselves^into arable and 
])asture grounds. The arable soil of this parish may be distin- 
^ished into four kinds. That which extends southward^from the 
bottom of the hills, consists of a rich hazel mould, intermixed with 
gravel and small stones. This is succeeded by a stratum of moss 
over a bed of clay, and extending from 50 to 100 yards in breadth, 
and in some places this moss is found 7 feet deep. Next to this 
is a strong clay, extending a considerable way towards the Devon. 
Then follows what is called haughing ground, such as is usually 
found on the banks of rivers, and the inundations of the Devon, 
which occur twice or thrice a-year, leave great quantities of sand 
behind. The soil at the river's bed appears to be in many places 
more than 20 feet deep. The grounds produce the usual crops 
of wheat, barley, pease, beans, oats, clover, potatoes, and turnip. 



186 STIULINGSHIIIK. 

The whole arable land has been long enclosed with hedges anl 
ditches, which are kept in a very superior taste and style. ThoN 
fields which lie immediately below the house of AItb, at the bot- 
tom of the Woodhill, were enclosed and planted more than i 
century ago, and were among the first enclosures in this part of 
the country. 

Till within the last forty years, the state of agriculture in tUi 
parish was miserable. The practice, however, of fallowings limiiig, 
and cleaning the lands to obtain good returns — the advantage of 
having broad clover for summer food for horsesi and being ablelo 
work them constantly, instead of sending them to graie for fiit 
months among the hills at much expense, — are now understood and 
acted on. Experience has proved the soil to be good, and wboa 
properly cultivated, capable of great improvement, and of pro« 
ducing wheat and all the strongest grain. 

The improvement of the land was long kept back here, as eke- 
where, by the farms remaining limited to a very few acres, and abo 
by the farmers being bound by their leases tii drive coals from the 
pits on the south bank of Devon to the shore of Alloa* Lord 
Alva at length prohibited this absurd and unprofitable practice^ 
and the farmers have been since enabled to turn more decided it* 
tention to the improvements of husbandry. Since 1706, the ex- 
tent of the farms has been enlarged with great advantage to the 
landlord, and greater respectability to the tenant. Foraierly, thd 
farms were limited to 30 and not more than 70 acres, now they 
run from 100 to 200 acres each. 

The number if ucrcs, Scotch measure, in arable and other tillage is 890. 
Of land never cultivated, but applied to sheep pasture, upwards of 2000 acrvKi 
Of cultivated land lying in pasture, and let to grazing 120 acres. 
And uf ground under wood there are 188 acres. 

Rent of Land.^^The average rent of land let to farmers is from 
L. 2, 1 Os. to L. (3, 3s. per acre, — for oxen and milk cows grazing, 
about L. 4 per acre. The grazing of sheep is rated about 4s. 6d. 
each, or L. 4, 1 Os. per score. The common breed of sheep here 
is the black-faced kind, and of cattle, the Ayrshire and the short- 
horned, or a cross betwixt these. 

IVages, — The rate of farm -servants' wages, who work as la- 
bourers, is from 8s. to 9s. per week ; and a ploughman receives 
L. 25 per annum, including all provisions. 

Produce. — The average produce of grain of all kinds raised in 
this parish, is 3060 bolls, — of potatoes, turnips, cabbages, &c. the 
average gross amount is valued at [^ 1020, — of hay cultivated, at 



ALVA. 187 

^ 275. About one acre is annually planted with woad for dyeing 
roollens blue, and is said to bring L. 20 per acre, but it greatly 
spoverishes the land.- The annual thinning and periodical fell- 
3g of woods, -plantations, and copse, yields about L. 160. 

The three Alva hills have been ditrided into two separate farms for 
heep,-— one comprehending the Westhill, the other the Middle- 
ill, together with part of the Woodhill. The former is capable 
f maintaining 70 score of sheep, and the latter will maintain from 
to 65 score. On the higher and back-lying ground, the soil is 
iiossy, and produces abundance of heath, together with a strong 
nd coarse grass. This, however, is resorted to by the older part 
f the flocks, and the shepherds keep them there for the purpose 
)f preserving the fore*ground against the winter season. It is pow 
he practice with the sheep-farmers to breed a few young sheep; but 
hese bear no proportion to the number of the stock. They have aU 
rays a proportion of ewes on their farms, and the lambs are chiefly 
old to the butcher. The farmers go every year about Midsum- 
ner to Linton markets, and purchase sheep of a year old, which, 
iccording to the custom of the sheep-farmers in the south, are 
meared with tar, and after being shorn twice white, as they ex- 
>res8 it, are sold in August and September to the butcher. Snow 
eldom covers these pasture-hills longer than a few days together, 
tnd even then the sheep browse on the young furze and thrive 
irelL The hills and plantations afford excellent shelter to the 
locks, which have never greatly suffered, compared with those in 
»ther places from heavy snow storms. 

Manufactures. — Perhaps the most important feature of this pa- 
-ish, is the state of its woollen manufactures. For upwards of a 
century and a-half, these have been carried on in the village of 
Alva. In the early history of the district, the staple trade consist- 
ed chiefly of serges. There is no doubt that this species of ma- 
nufacture also flourished long ago in the neighbouring village of 
Tillicoultry ; and to this day it is known among the shopkeepers 
of the Lawnmarket of Edinburgh by the name of Tillicoultry 
serges. These were soon superseded by the more useful article 
of plaidings and blanketings, which became the principal commo-^ 
dity after the first woollen factory was built, in the year 179d 
Since 1826, however, tartan shawls have been introduced, and 
become the most general article manufactured. In 1832, chequer- 
ed cassimeres began to be made, and they now form a considerable 
branch of business. These manufactures find a market in Slir- 
ing, Perth, Edinburgh, but especially in Glasgow. There are 



188 STlllLINGSHIRE. 

eight woollen mills, whose annual consumpt is not less than 480»0(M) 
lbs. of wool. The manufactures make use chiefly of English wool, 
from the sheep that pasture on the Cheviots, which costs from 
Is. to Is. 6d. per pound. 

The number of persons employed is as follows : In the factories, 
149 men, 50 women, 81 children ; in the village 89 men, 175 
women, 21 children, making the total number employed in these 
woollen munufactures 565 individuals. The total number of looms 
is as follows : looms in the factories, 90 ; looms in the village 80 ; 
total 170. Of these, about 100 are employed in. weaving soft 
tartan shawls — 40 at blankets and plaidings — 24 at chequered 
cassimeres — and 6 at carpetings. The wages of weavers may 
average about 15s. per week, and superior workmen can earn from 
L. 1, to L. 1, 4s. The ordinary hours of labour are from 6 o'clock 
A. M. to 7 o'clock p. M., except on Saturday, when labour is given 
up at 5 p. M., and from this stated time one hour is allowed for 
breakfast, and one for dinner. The working classes here are ex- 
ceedingly healthy, and the children particularly exhibit renoarkable 
vivacity of mind, and vigour of body. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Ecclesiastical History. — The parish of Alva was, long before the 
Reformation, in the diocese of Dunkeld and under the ecclesiasti- 
cal jurisdiction of the Bishop of that See. By an extract taken 
from the chartulary of Cambuskenneth, in the neighbourhood of 
Stirling, wc learn, that the church of Alva was a mensel church, as 
it is called, (de mcnsa Episcopi — part of the funds for the 
Bishop's support,) belonging to that abbacy; and that the monks, 
who were of the order of St Augustine, performed duty there, 
from want of a sufficient fund to maintain a resident and regular 
clergyman in the parish. In the year 1260, Richard, Bishop of 

Dunkeld, made a donation to the monks of the church of St Marv 

• 

at Cambuskenneth, of "the church of Alva with all its legal perti* 
nents," and dispensed with their employing a vicar to officiate 
statedly. The following reason is then assigned, " virorum re- 
ligiosorum abbatis et conventus de Cambuskenneth, paupertati 
compatientes, — charitatis intuitu, et propter tenuitatem ecclesiae 
de Alveth.*' By another extract from the same chartulary, it ap- 
pears that Alexander, styled Dominus de Striveling Miles, made 
a grant of one acre of land to God, the Virgin Mary, to St Ser- 
vanus, and to the church of St Servanus de Alveth, describing it 
particularly as lying near the well of St Servanus, "et inter ipsum 
fonlem (St Serfs well) et ccclcsiain." Thiij charter bears date 



ALVA. 189 

An D. 1276. The well is still within the limits of the minister's 
^lebe, and continues to send forth a stream of excellent water ; 
but the course is almost choked up with weeds and rushes ; the 
consecrated name has long been forgotten ; and its neglected state 
calls loudly upon the tutelar saint, orsome Catholic devotee, to rescue 
its name from obliyion, and disclose again its healing virtues. About 
twenty years afbr the Reformation, and when Stirling, and a few 
parishes around it, were provided with stated pastors, the presby- 
tery of Stirling was erected on the 8lh day of August 1581, in 
consequence of an order from the General Assembly to that effect. 
From 1581, till the year 1632, this parish was united to the neigh- 
bouring one of Tillicoultry — the minister of Alva officiating in both. 
The livings of both hardly afforded a decent subsistence ; and 
the stipend of Alva did not exceed 300 merks Scots, or L. 16, 13s. 
4d. Sterling. 

The fabric of the present church was built in 1632 by Alexander 
Bruce, then proprietor of Alva, who afterwards making a small ad- 
dition to the stipend, procured its disjunction from Tillicoultry. 
The church stands a little to the east of the village, upon an 
eminence, commanding a 6ne view of the valley of Devon. The 
hbric is in excellent condition, but long after it was built it re- 
mained in an unfinished state — the walls and roofs were unplastered 
— ^thewindowssmallandill situated — and the seats in a ruinous con- 
dition. In the year 1815, at the expense of James Raymond John- 
stone, Esq. it was wholly rebuilt, and fitted up properly within, so 
as to accommodate 586 sitters, estimated at 18 inches for each, and 
at present it is a comfortable and elegant place of worship. 

The pews are allotted by the heritor rent-free to his tenants and 
feuars, and the remainder, with the communion table seats, are 
open to the villagers. 

The church-yard is beside the church, finely sequestered from 
the bustle and business of men, and contains some epitaphs of the 
" rude forefathers of the hamlet," sufficiently curious. 

The present manse is near the church, and was built in the 
year 1762, upon a very neat and commodious plan. 

In the year 1765,. Lord Alva, then proprietor of the barony, sen- 
sible of the smallness of the living, very generously, and without 
any application from the incumbent, gave an augmentation in 
rictual, to the amount of L. 22 Sterling, at the usual conversion ; 
by which the stT^end consisted of L.34, Is. 9d. Sterling, in money, 
including the allowance for communion elements, together with 40 
bolls of barlev, and 32 bolls of meal. The Rev. Mr Duncan, to 



190 STIRLlNGSHinr. 

whom this augmentation was given, gratefully records (in his Sta- 
tistical Account, to which we are indebted for the fulness of the 
present report,) that Lord Alva not only resolved of his own ac 
cord to give this grant, but actually executed a summons againsM^- 
himself as sole heritor, in name of the minister, and without his- . 
knowledge, as the first step towards accomplishing bis generou ^ 
resolution. The glebe consists of nearly nine acres. 

James Johnstone, Esq. is sole heritor of the parish. 

Education, — The present parish school-house, built in 1828^ 
a fine house situated in the centre of the village, and fitted to a« 
commodate upwards of 100 scholars. The salary of the parochi 
teacher is L. 29, 18s. lOd* Sterling. The village also cootaii 
a subscription school, and th^re are besides an infant sch< 
and a seminary for the education of female children, ah 
wholly supported by the patronage and bounty of Mrs Johnstoi 
and the young ladies at Alva House. Besides the other elemeii'— 
tary branches of knowledge, the children are taught to knit andser ^^ 
Many great improvements have been recently adopted in the intel — 
lectual and moral training of children, which it is most desirable 
should find their way into this district. 

The number of individuals, including children, professing to be- 
long to the Established Church, in the year 1836, is 1 185, or 262 
families. Belonging to the Dissenting congregations, there are 
272 persons, including children, or 60 families, averaged at 4^ ibr 
each family. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The poor receiving parochial aid 
are few in number, seldom exceeding a dozen ; and occasional 
supply is given to others not on the poor's roll, as their necessities 
demand. On a board in the session house, we have recorded the 
following donation to the poor, a. d. 1764: — " John Mitchell, far- 
mer in Windlestrawlee, near Leith, bequeathed to the poor of the 
parish of Alva the sum of L. 50 Sterling. Remember the words 
of the Lord Jesus, ' It is more blessed to give than to receive.* '* 
The ordinary collection, with the interest arising from a small fund, 
and the common dues of the parish mortcloth, without any assess- 
ment upon the heritor or inhabitants, has hitherto maintained the 
poor. Examples are not uncommon of individuals refusing to ac- 
cept charity from the parish, and, with that patience and honest 
pride peculiarly Scottish, undergoing privations untold, rather 
than ask or take relief. * 

Drawn up in 1836. 
Revised. April 1841. 



PARISH OF POLMONT. 

PRESBYTERY OF UNLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JOHN KER, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Namej Boundaries^ Sfc. — The etymology of Polmoiit is uncer- 
tain. Most probably, it is derived from a Celtic word, signify- 
ing pool of the moor, in allusion to the ancient state of the low 
part of the parish, which, though now highly cultivated and very 
fertile, bears abundant traces of its once having been covered with 
water. Its greatest length is about six miles and a-half, and its ut- 
most breadth about 3 miles. It is bounded on the north, by the 
Frith of Forth ; on the east, partly by the river Avon, which sepa- 
rates the county of Stirling from the county of Linlithgow, and 
partly by the parish of Muiravonside ; on the south, by Muiravon- 
side and Slamanan parishes ; and on the west, by the parish of 
Falkirk. 

Its general appearance is rich, varied, and beautiful. It is di- 
vided usually into two |)arts. The lower portion, which forms the 
Carse, is flat, and too valuable to bear any thing but grain ; hut 
the higher portion, which is termed the dry6eld, is undulatincr, 
well-wooded, and adorned with many handsome villas, and man- 
sioD houses. The Carse is on a level with the sea, and would 
still be flooded by the tide, were it not protected by a strong em- 
bankment. The dryfield rises gradually, till it reaches the ex- 
treme height of about 553 feet, where is obtained a very extensive 
prospect, and remarkable both for its beauty and grandeur. 

Mtieorology. — The yearly depth of rain, on an average of se- 
venteen years, from 1821 to 1837, is 31.31 inches. The district 
is very healthy. Though in one part of the parish, the cottaaes 
are far from being comfortable, being built generally of turf and 
clay, and the population considerable, if not crowded, there is 
very rarely any epidemic, even when prevalent in the village:^ of 
some of the adjoining parishes. 



192 STIULINGSHIUE. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — The minerals are both abundant 
and valuable, consisting of freestone, coal, ironstone, with Bre-clay. 

The freestone, which is the only rock, extends nearly through- 
out the whole of the parish. The dip of the strata generally is to 
the north-east, except when their position is altered by a dike 
which traverses one part of the parish, as exemplified in Brigh- 
ton's Quarry, when the strata in consequence dip to the north- 
west. This is the only quarry which is at present in operation. 
Recently it has been, and is still wrought to a great extent, on 
account of the increase of demand for stone, occasioned chiefly 
by the projected railway between Edinburgh and Glasgow* The 
quality of the rdbk is good, the colour brownish. Stones of any 
size can be procured. But preparations are making for opening 
another quarry at Battock. The freestone here forms a lower 
bed than what is found at Brighton's. It is of a white colour, and 
is hard and durable. The dip of the strata is to the north-west. 

The coal is situated in different parts of the parish. The pre- 
vailing dip of the strata is to the north-east, rising, consequently, 
to the south-west, with an inclination of 1 in 12. The coal-field 
is intersected by several slips or dislocations, by which the strata 
are depressed in some instances many fathoms. Hence it fre- 
quently happens, that the seams of coal on the one side of a slip 
are not found on the other, being either thrown off, or thrown 
down to so great a depth, as to render the working of them im- 
practicable, while new seams are often superinduced. Two main 
shps have been ascertained. These run from north-west to south- 
east. Besides, a great number of smaller slips have been discovered 
in sinking the coal ; yet, on the whole, the coal-field, compared 
with many others, may be considered a clear field. 

About half a mile west from Brighton's Quarry, one of the 
main slips is met with, which throws down the coal to the west- 
ward about '20 fathoms ; and about three-quarters of a mile to 
the west of the first, is the second main slip, by which the coal is 
depressed to the westward upwards of 30 fathoms. 

The first coal, found to the east of the first main slip, consists 
of two seams. The upper seam is about 10 or 14 fathoms be- 
low the surface, and is of a soft caking quality. Here it is from 
34 to 36 inches thick, though, between the two main slips, it does 
not exceed 21 inches. Beneath this seam about 8 fathoms is the 
lower one ; it is 4^ feet thick, and its quality is inferior, because 
there are several ribs of stone in it. Immediatelv above this seam 



POLMONT. 193 

there are two or three bands of ironstone, which has been long 
wrought by the Carron Company and others, and is now nearly 
exhausted. But, besides these seams, it is proved that there are 
other two of considerably greater depth, which have not yet been 
opened up. 

Id the part of the field which extends between the two main 
slips, there occurs above the seams already described, to the east- 
ward of the first main slip, a seam of soft coal, and it is the only 
one, excepting the seam just below the ironstone, which for many 
years has been wrought. 

To the westward of the second main slip, the first seam, which 
is limited to this part of the field, is to be found only in the higher 
grounds, and is of very partial extent. It is from 4 to 5 feet thick, 
of excellent quality, and rarely more than eight fathoms beneath 
the surface ; but it is now almost wrought out. The second seam, 
which is also peculiar to this part of the field, and found from 25 
to 85 fathoms below the surface, is the splint coal ; it is 34 inches 
thick, and the quality is good. Below this seam 14 fathoms 
is the soft coal, previously mentioned, of 32 inches thick, and like- 
wise of fine quality. Besides the seams occurring in the eastern 
part of the field, it is ascertained that here there is another, 30 
inches thick, 46 fathoms under the soft coal ; but to it there have 
hitherto been no sinkings. 

The coal proprietors are, the Duke of Hamilton ; William 
Johnstone, Esq. of Meadowbank ; and John G. Drummond, Esq. 
of Abbotsgrange. To the first, belongs the Redding Colliery ; 
to the second, the Middlerig Colliery ; and to the last, the Shiel- 
hill Colliery. The Redding Colliery is conducted on the largest 
scale. The coals from the pits are raised by steam-engines, and 
conveyed to the Union Canal by a railway with inclined planes ; one 
of these being upwards of 800 yards in length, and at which can 
be let down at one time from 10 to 12 tons. The splint and 
soft coals are those which are at present wrought, and sent chiefly 
to the Edinburgh market. 'J'he output varies, of course, in amount 
with the demand. But the quantity must be always very great, 
as there are employed at the Redding and Middlerig Collieries up- 
wards of 400 men, — miners, labourers, and artificers, besides draw- 
ers, an office performed usually by boys, and by women or girls. 
Of the Shielhill Colliery, the Carron Company are lessees ; and 
though at one period it was carried on very extensively, they have 

STIRLING. K 



m. J 



194 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

removed, meanwhile, their workmen almost entirely to the neigh- 
bourincr parish of Falkirk. 

The soil is of divers kinds. In the Carse, it consists of clay, 
of great depth, and of 6ne quality ; being entirely without stones, 
and obviously an alluvial deposit, both from the number of marine 
shells with which it . abounds, and from the general elevation of 
the surface not being above the rise of the tide. In the dryfield, 
it is chiefly of a gravelly or sandy nature, though in some places 
it is composed of clay, and in others of moss. 

Zoology, — The population is too dense to admit of game being 
plenty. But all the common varieties are found, and some of those 
which might scarcely be expected in this district, such as the red 
and black grouse, and the wild duck* The squirrel is frequently 
met with, — more rarely the otter. Besides the more ordinary de- 
scriptions of birds, there are the jay, the sparrow-hawk, the com- 
mon owl, and the water hen, while we have occasional visits of the 
wild-goose and the heron. In the Avon, numbers of sea-trout of 
good size are caught in the spring and autumn ; but salmon very 
seldom. 

Botany. — The wild plants are numerous but not rare. I am 
not aware of one which is worthy of being specified, except the 
Osmunda regalis^ or flowering fern, which is found on the banks 
of the Avon. All the species, both of fir and of hard-wood, thrive 
well, but the la^t are chiefly grown. An attempt has been made 
to introduce some of the varieties of the Canadian apple, viz. 
the Pomme grise and \\\Qfameuse^ by Mr Logan of Clarkstone, 
but not with much success, in consequence of our summers being 
generally too cold to bring the fruit to maturity. 

II — Civil History. 

As the parish is but of recent formation, it affords few materials 
for history. It was disjoined from that of Falkirk in 1 724. Its 
name, however, must be at least of long standing, for among the 
titles of the Duke of Hamilton, he is called Lord Polmont I 
know not of any notiqes of the parish, save in the previous Statis- 
tical Account, and in Nimmo's History of Stirlingshire ; and, in 
both, the notices are brief and meagre. 

Eminent Characters. — Dr Henry, one of the ministers of Edin- 
burgh, author of a History of Great Britain, resided here, for 
several years, during the summer months, and was buried in the 
churchyard in 1790, where there is a monument to his memory. 
Land-Owners. — The principal of these are, the Earl of Zetland; 



POLMONT. 195 

John G. Drummond, Esq. of Abbotsgrange ; and Captain Dal- 
gleish of Reddoch, — all of whom are non •resident ; and among 
the chief resident proprietors are, Sir Thomas Livingstone, Bart 
of West-quarter ; William Logan, Esq. of Clarkstone ; Thomas 
Walker, Esq. of Polmont Bank; James Milne, Esq. of Haypark; 
and William Johnstone, Esq. of Meadowbank. There is a pecu- 
liarity connected with the resident proprietors, which should be 
mentioned. Many of them, though the annual value of their lands 
be not great, are possessed of independent fortunes, derived from 
other sources. In the Carse, the properties generally do not con- 
sist of more than forty or fifty acres each, yet there have been few 
changes among the owners. For several generations, the same 
lands have been held, in various instances, by the same families. 

Parochial Registers* — There are registers of births and of pro- 
clamations, both of which commence at the origin of the parish. 
There is also a register of funerals, which extends back for fifty years. 

Antiquities. — The Roman Wall, commonly called Graham's 
Dike, erected by the Emperor Antoninus Pius about the year 
140, and stretching from the Frith of Forth to the Frith of Clyde, 
passed through the parish. All remains of it have disappeared, 
though some existed only a few years ago. On the hill beyond 
Redding is a stone, known in the neighbourhood by the name of 
Wallace's Stone, and, if tradition be credited, commemorative of 
the place where the famous Sir William Wallace, in consequence 
of his quarrel with Sir John Stewart, another of the Scottish chiefs, 
viewed the battle of Falkirk, from the site of which it is distantabout 
two miles, and of which it commands a prospect, — a sullen and inao* 
tive spectator. But, whatever be the credit attached to the tradi- 
tion, the stone is obviously of recent origin, and, on examination, 
will disappoint the antiquary. 

Modem Buildings. — Most of the houses of the resident proprie- 
tors are modern, — Polmont Park, Parkhill, Clarkstone, Polmont 
House, Millfield, Polmont Bank, &c. 

III. — Population. 

Amount of population in 1755, by Dr Webster's Return, 1094 

1791, . . 1400 

1801, . . 2194 

1811, . . 1827 

1821, . . 2171 

1831, . 320() 

1835, December, by a census taken 

by the writer of this report, 8107 

These statements require, perhaps, some explanation. In ISOI, 
the colliery at Shielhill was in active operation, and hence the lai^e 



196 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

increase at that time compared with the census in 1791. In 181 1, 
the work there was almost discontinued, and hence the decrease. 
Again, from 1821 to 1831, the Redding colliery was conducted on 
more than its present extensive scale ; and in 1835, the diminution 
was occasioned by fewer w^orkmen being employed. 

The population connected with the collieries amounts to about 
1000. The rest of the population consists of agricultural labourers 
and quarrymen, with a small number of shopkeepers and mechanics* 

During the last seven years, the average number of births was 
83, and of marriages, 27. The number of deaths cannot be ascertain- 
ed with any accuracy. There is only a register of funerals, and 
as many from neighbouring parishes are buried in the church-yard, 
it gives no correct index of the mortality in the parish. Nor is 
much reliance for any practical purpose to be placed on the regis- 
ters of births and of marriages, or more properly of proclamations ; 
for not a few omit to record the names of their children. Though 
an account be kept of the publication of bans, it often happens 
that one of the parties resides in another parish. 

Of villages, the two principal are, Bennetston and Redding ; 
the former containing 474 inhabitants, the latter 587. 

In September 1338, there were 34 different proprietors on 
the list of heritors. Of these, 27 have properties of the yearly 
value of L.50 and upwards, and two only drav^ from their lands 
in the parish above L.IOOO per annum. 

The people, on the whole, are orderly and peaceable. Among the 

colliers, there has been a perceptible improvement during the last 

few years — more attention being paid to the education of the young, 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture: — 

Land cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, 3790 Iraperial acres. 

Uncultivated, . . 531 

Under wood, . . 100 

The uncultivated consists of the Redding Moor, and is capable 
of being cultivated. It is an undivided common, belongino* to the 
Duke of Hamilton ; but the right of pasturage is held by some of 
the other heritors. Till very recently, it was altogether a waste, 
when portions of it, with the permission of the superior, were par- 
tially enclosed and cultivated, chiefly with the spade by the col- 
liers, at their spare hours, — a circumstance creditable to their in- 
dustry, and advantageous to their morals ; and in some instances, 
they have reaped an abundant produce both in oats and potatoes. 
Were the whole brought under culture, it would be a very great 
iiDproFement. 



POLMONT. 197 

Rent of Land. — The rent of Carse land varies from L. 3 to 
L* 4, 10s* per acre, according to the prices of grain determined by 
the county Bars, and of dryfield from L.1 to L.3 per acre. The 
real rent of the parish is between L.7000 and L.8000. 

Wages. — The wages of labourers per day run from Is. 8d. to 
t2s. Farm-servants, hired for the half-year, receive from L. 7 to 
L.10, with bed and board. 

Husbandry. — In the dryfield the five-shift course is followed, and in 
the Carse, very generally the six-shift, viz. 1. summer fallow ; 2. 
wheat ; 8. beans ; 4. barley ; 5. hay ; and 6. oats. Great improve- 
ment has lately been made in the culture of land, in consequence 
of the introduction of tile-draining. It costs per acre from L. 4 
to L. 7, according to the nature of the soil, and, if small stones 
or gravel be laid *above the tile, the expense will be increased ; 
but the increase of expense is amply compensated by the increase 
of benefit. The whole outlay is repaid in additional produce in 
a few crops. There is one steam-engine in the parish, which turns 
a thrashing mill — a great saving in horse-labour, and otherwise not 
costly, as coal is near and cheap. It may be proper to state, that 
great facilities are afforded for conveying manure here, from Edin- 
burgh and Leith, both by the Union Canal, and by the Frith of 
Forth. Nor are these facilities di.sregarded. The mode of farm- 
ing usually practised is of the most approved kind. The land, 
particularly in the carse, and in the dryfield to the north of the 
Union Canal, is almost in as high a state of cultivation as it can 
be brought by skill and capital ; but the same thing cannot be 
said of the land to the south of the Canal, and in the most ele- 
vated district of the parish, where, for the most part, the poverty 
of the soil operates as a hindcrance to improvement. 

There are two works for making tiles and bricks. 

Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce, 
as nearly as can be ascertained, are the following : 

Wheat, 450 imperial acres, at 4 quarters per acre, 



Oats, 700 


do. 


5 do. 


Barley, 4o0 


do. 


5 do. 


Beans, 300 


do. 


8& do. 


Potatoes, 160 


do. 


5 bulls, 


Turnips, 80 


do. 


L. 10, 


Hay, 4jO 


do. 


ISO stones, 


Pa*ture, I'JOO 


do. 


L.1, 10s. 



L. 4320 








tfts25 








3J7.3 








1 » p« •i' 








2040 








HOO 








27(H) 





(1 


IWJO 









L. 2<).();}j u 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Town. — The nearest market-town is Kalkirk. 
Means of Communication. — There is no want either of modes 



198 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

of conveyance or of communicatioD. The post-town is Falkirkf 
from which there is a runner daily for the delivery of the letters ; 
but, no doubt, the establishment of a regular post-office in Beo- 
netstown would be a great improvement, for the runner requires to 
travel over so wide a field, that the letters are seldom received by 
many in time to be answered ib course. There are about two 
miles of turnpike ; and coaches pass daily to and from Edinburgh* 
Glasgow, and Stirling. The Union Canal also intersects the pa- 
rish for about two miles and a-half ; and the projected railway* 
between Edinburgh and Glasgow, so far as it extends in this pa- 
rish, will be almost in the line of the Union Canal. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The present church was built in 173L 
It is seated for 607. It is damp, ill arranged, and most inade- 
quate to the wants of the parish. The number of communicants 
belonging to the Establishment cannot be accommodated in it, for 
they amount to 749; and the total number of individuals connect* 
ed with the Establishment, according to the census of 1835, was 
2585. Since that period, the proportions have not decreased but 
increased. Yet how long the present church may stand, it is 
hard to tell. It cannot be condemned, and by the exbting law, 
all the heritors must agree before a new one <:an be erected, 
and, consisting of above thirty, unanimity among so many is not 
easily attained. In the Redding district, where the destitution 
is greatest, there is a preaching station. There a probationer of 
the Church of Scotland has officiated regularly since 1835, in a 
school-room belonging to the Redding colliery ; yet, prior to that 
period, service was performed occasionally in it on the Sabbath 
evening by ihe parish minister. The Dissenters in the parish be- 
long to the United Associate Synod, the Relief, and the Came* 
ronians, and attend public worship at Falkirk, Lauriston, and 
Linlithgow. The whole of these, including a few Episcopalians, 
amount to 503, and the total number of sittings rented in their 
respective places of worship is 15a There are nineteen persons 
who profess to belong to no religious denomination. In the vil- 
lage of Bennetstown there has been for upwards of two years fre- 
quent service on the Sabbath evening in a school-room, by minis- 
ters or preachers of most of the Dissenting denominations in the 
neighbourhood. 

The manse is in good repair. The glebe consists of five Scotch 

This railway is now nearly made. It is expected that it will be opened for the 
pusage of locoxnotive carriages by August or September next. 



POLMONT. 199 

seres. The garden, with the shnibbery, extends to about an acre 
more. The stipend is 17 chalders, half meal, half barley, with 
L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. 

Heliffious Societies. — A Bible Society has existed for many 
years. Since the dispute between the British and Foreign, and the 
Edinburgh Bible Societies, its annual income has never been so 
large. It fluctuates now from L. 6 to L. 8. 

Education. — The parociiial teacher receives the maximum sa- 
larly — L. 34, 4s. 4id. The scholars are so numerous, as to render 
an assistant necessary, who is paid by the teacher — the average 
ntimber being about 140. The whole emoluments, including the 
fees of the session-clerkship, exceed L. 100 per annum. This 
is the fiftieth year of the present teacher, Mr Thomas Girdwood's 
tenure of ofiice, and no man ever filled it more worthily, or more 
efficiently discharged its duties. There arc other five schools, 
attended in all by 250 scholars ; but the provision for the sup- 
port of the teachers, consisting, with one exception, entirely of 
the school fees, is generally very inadequate. 

Of Sabbath schools, there are three, — one taught by the preach- 
er at the preaching station ; one by the teacher at Old Redding, 
under the superintendence of the minister of the parish ; and an- 
other at Polmont by the parochial minister, assisted by the pa- 
rochial teacher. 

Library, — A parish library was instituted in 1820. It contains 
340 volumes. While the novelty lasted the books ^^ere eagerly 
read by the working-classes, for whose benefit it was intended ; 
but the interest, for some time, has much subsided ; and propor- 
tionally the subscribers have been reduced. 

Savings Bank. — One of these has existed since 1818. It is 
chiefly parochial. The deposits are lodged principally by farm-ser- 
vants. The following is a state of the funds for the last four years. 

January 1835, . L. 279 10 

Do. 1836, . 282 5 1 

Do. 1837, . 310 6 8 

Do. 1838, 349 16 2 

Do. 1839, . 309 3 10 

There was a benefit society ; but, as it was established on faulty 
principles, the box was broken, and the society dissolved a few 
years ago, in consequence of the payments being inadequate to 
meet the expenditure, and the rapid diminution of the funds. 
There are still two societies for defraying funeral expenses. 

Poor and Parochial Funds.— The average number of poor on 



200 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

the roll is 37. In 1838, there were 39 regular pensioners. The 
whole sum divided among them was L.84, 14s. None of theoi 
receive above 5s. per month, nor less than 3s. per month. In ad- 
dition to this sum, there were expended in occasional allowances, 
L.26, 4s. 5d. The funds are made up of collections at the church 
doors, proclamation dues, &c The average amount of Collections 
yearly is L. 78 ; exclusive of sums gathered for special charities 
or missionary objects. For the last two years, they have exceed- 
ed the usual average ; amounting in 1837 to L. 80, 3s. 7^d. ; and 
in 1838, to L.84, 13s. 7id.* The income arising from, other sour- 
ces is very fluctuating. In 1837, it amounted to L.31, 6s. 8d. ; 
and in 1838^ to L. 42, 8s. 5^. Hitherto the poor have been sup- 
ported without an assessment, — at least for many years ; and I trust 
the day is yet distant, when such a mode of providing for their 
wants must be resorted to, because of the manifold evils which it 
brings in its train. But much depends on the conduct of the heri- 
tors, whether so untoward an event is hastened or retarded, if not 
altogether averted. Here, as elsewhere, there is a growing dispo- 
sition to claim parochial aid; and, in consequence of the collieries 
being wrought so extensively for the last fifteen years, it is not un- 
likely that the number needing aid will be ere long increased. 
Then the chief resources at present to supply the necessities of 
the poor arise from the collections at the church door. But if 
the church accommodation remains stationary, while the popula- 
tion is augmented, if the means are not afforded for their atteo- 
dance on public worship, for their being trained up in moral and 
religious habits, it is more than probable, that, among the baneful 
effects thereby occasioned, will be an increase of pauperism so 
great as to render necessary a compulsory mode of relief. 

lans, — Of these, there are three in Bennetstown, and one at Pol- 
mont kirk. The number of taverns or public-houses in the parish 
is large, and some of them might be spared, without injury to the 
comfort, and with advantage to the morals of the people. 

Fuel. — It consists almost entirely of coal. Recently the ton 
cost from 6s. to 7s. 6d. at the hill. At present the price per ton 
is 5s. lOd. But even this sum is considerably larger than the 
price for the same quantity a few years back. 

It ought to be stated, that, at present, there are two pauper lunatics for whose 
maintenance provision is made by an assessment on the heritors, and the amount of 
which is kept entirely distinct from the administration o^ llic funds appropriated tQ 
the support of the ordinary poor. 

March 1839. Revised April 1841. 



PARISH OF BOTHKENNAR. 

PRESBYTERY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. JOHN CAW, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The word Bothkennar is of Celtic origin, and signifies 

the small arable fen or marsh, — a name highly descriptive of the 

situation of the parish, which is very small, all arable, and appears 

at first to have been marshy, from having been made up from the 

alluvial deposits of the Frith of Forth. 

Extent^ $'c.— -It is bounded on the north, by the parish of Airth ; 
on the east, by the Frith of Forth ; on the south, by the river Car- 
ron ; and on the west, by the parish of Larbert. It consists of 
1248 acres, and forms nearly a square with the church in the cen- 
tre. It is situated in the Carse of Falkirk, and forms by far the 
richest patch in that district, and is, perhaps, not equalled by any 
Carse land in Scotland. 

Topographical AppeaYances, — The surface of the parish is a 
dead flat, no one part of it being sis: feet higher than another ; and 
it is a remarkable circumstance, that there is not a stone to be 
found in the whole parish of the size of a pepper-corn, unless 
brought from other places by manure, &c. 

Geo/o^y.— There are no useful minerals in the parish, with the 
exception of coal of the best quality, which is wrought to a great 
extent by the Carron Company, and for which they pay the land- 
ed proprietors L. 1000 a-year. 

tSoih — It consists of the richest loam, and, as a proof that the 
parish has been, at one time, all under water, beds of shells and 
other marine productions are found in almost every part of it, from 
two to twelve feet under the surface. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land'Oumers. — There are eighteen landed proprietors, all of 

them non-resident, except three. The Earl of Zetland holds con- 
siderably more than one-third of the parish ; and the family has 
been always distinguished as liberal and indulgent to their te- 



2G2 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Qantry. During the French revolutionary war, they lettheir lands at 
L.5, 5s. per acre, but never exacted more than L.4, and every year 
gave the tenants a full discharge. The other principal proprietors 
are, Henry Stainton, Esq. of Gairdoch ; Colonel Dundas of Car- 
ron Hall ; and John Walker Ogilvie, Esq. of Orchardhead. The 
remainder of the parish is held by others, to the extent of from 
two to sixty acres each. 

HI. — Population. 
About twenty years ago, the population of the parish did not 

amount to quite 500 ; but since the establishment of the colliery 

by the Carron Company, it has increased as follows : — 

In 1811 . . . 821 
1821 .... 895 
1831 ... 905 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — In no part of Scotland is agriculture better under- 
stood, or pursued with more eagerness and success than in this 
small parish. The soil is so favourable for the production of grain, 
that there is not in it one acre of natural grass. Tile-draining 
has, for several years past, been carried on to such an extent, that 
almost every acre of it has been subjected to this most important 
improvement, so important that the farmers assert, that they are 
paid all their outlay by the additional produce of the two first 
years. The mode of cropping is that of a six years rotation ; 
1. naked fallow; 2. wheat; 3. beans; 4. barley; 5. grass; 6. 
oats. Perhaps the ingenuity of man cannot discover a more 
important rotation for carse land than this, as a green crop inter- 
venes between every two white ones. 

Rent of Land. — For several years past, the lands have paid prin- 
cipally a grain rent of from eleven to twelve bushels of wheat per 
Scotch acre, with, in very few instances, a maximum and mini- 
mum of from L.1, 5s. to L.1, 15s. per boll of four bushels, regu- 
lated by the fiars of the county. 

Rate of Wages, — Farm-servants are engaged by the half-year, 
at from L.9 to L.11. There are no day-labourers in the parish. 

Stock. — There is much attention paid to the rearing of horses 
for farm purposes, which are of a superior description. No greater 
number of cows are kept, than is necessary for supplying the fa- 
mily with dairy produce. 

Produce. — Wheat and beans are the most productive crops. 
The average of wheat may be stated at six quarters per acre, and 
in some favourable seasons has amounted even to nine. The time 

4 



BOTUKENNAU. 203 

of lowing is always about the month of September. The average 
of beans is from four to six quarters an acre. Barley and oats 
much the same as in the neighbouring districts. The hay raised 
in the parish is of a very superior quality, and brings readily dd. 
per stonOi in the Edinburgh market, more than dryfield hay. The 
average produce may be stated at 300 stone of 22 pounds per 
stone an acre. There are fourteen orchards in the parish ; and the 
first of them appear to have been planted by the monks of Cam- 
buskenneth, who understood gardening bettor than any other 
part of the community at the period in which they lived. The 
soil is particularly adapted to pear trees, which bear more abund- 
ant crops than in any part of Great Britain. The golden-nap, 
which appears to be indigenous, grows with all the luxuriance of 
a forest tree, and never cankers. Its value is so great, that single 
trees have, in some particular years, brought from L. 10, 10s. to 
L.12, 12s.; and a single acre has in some years given L.100. 

V. — Parochial Economv. 

Villages. — There is no village in the parish, except a^small por- 
tion of Carron Shore, the greater part of which is In the parish of 
Larbert. 

Means of Communication. — The roads are, in general, kept in 
good repair by the Statute Labour; and there is easy access to 
every part of the country. 

Ecclesiastical State. — There have been only five Presbyterian 
ministers in this parish since Episcopacy was abolished, viz. Mr 
Lindsay, settled here in 1721 ; Mr Penman, in 1744; Mr Nim« 
mo, in 1765; Mr Dickson, in 1783; and the present incumbent, 
in 1796. There is a circumstance worthy of notice, that, while 
in every other parish in Scotland there was a great aversion to 
Episcopacy, this parish was so much attached to it, that they kept 
their minister, Mr Skinner, a most worthy man, from 1688 till 
1721 ; and had he not then resigned his situation, it is probable 
he would have died among them in the full exercise of his minis- 
terial functions. While the law of patronage was established in 
every other part of Scotland, the inhabitants of Bothkennar have 
enjoyed the invaluable privilege, from the days of the Revolution 
to the present time, of choosing their own ministers, through the 
indulgence, in the first instance, of the Crown, and, latterly, the 
Grahams of Airth, into whose hands it came. The consequence 
of this indulgence is, that the people are much attached to the 
Established Church, and there are not above six or seven fami- 
lies of Dissenters in the parish; all of whom, except one, have 



204 STIHLINGSHIRE. 

come from other parishes. It is to be regretted that the family 
of Airth, a very few years ago, sold the patronage for L. 2420. 
It is at present again in the market, but not yet sold. A new 
church was built in 1789, and, though not distinguished for 
external ornaments, it is one of the most comfortable in the 
neighbourhood, and more than sufficient for the accommodation 
of the parish. A new manse was built in 1816, at an expense 
of L.1575| and is, to the honour of the heritors, the best in 
the county. The stipend is 17 chalders of victual; and the 
teinds are exhausted. The glebe consists of four Scotch acres 
of the best land. The Earl of Zetland has reclaimed from the 
Frith of Forth, by embankments, about 200 acres, which have 
not as yet been subjected to the payment of any part of the minis- 
ter's stipend. There are still 800 acres which are lefk dry by the 
tides twice every twenty-four hours, and which will certainly, at no 
distant period, be recovered from the seai 

Education. — There is no other school than the parochial, the 
salary of which is the tnaximum. The heritors, with their accus- 
tomed liberality, built a school and schoolmaster's house in 1830, 
at an expense of Lf 600, and they have allotted to the schoolmas- 
ter the fourth of a Scotch acre for garden ground. The number 
of scholars is, at an average, about 60. The branches taught 
are, English grammar, arithmetic, writing, geography, mathema- 
tics, Latin, and Greek. 

Poor. — From the parish being almost altogether rural, the poor 
roll seldom contains more than six, who receive a weekly allowance 
of from 6d. to Is., with an occasional supply of coals and clothino^ 
during the winter season. The collections at the church door 
amount to about L. 15 annually. The late John Ogilvie, Esq. of 
Gairdoch, bequeathed, about twenty years ago, to the native poor 
of the parish, L. 500, which is lodged in the public funds, and the 
interest of which is to be laid out in the purchase of meal, when 
the price exceeds the average of the last seven years by one-fourth 
part, according to the fiars of the county. James Watt, Esq. a 
native of the parish, and a merchant in London, bequeathed also 
L. 100 to the native poor, which is under the management of the 
heritors and kirk-session. 

Fairs. — There are no fairs in the parish. The market-town is 
Falkirk, to which the produce is principally carried. 

Inns. — There are six public-houses, five of which are in the 
village of Carron Shore. 



MUIRAVONSIDE. 205 

I\tel — The inhabitaDts enjoy an abundant supply of the best 
coal, at the rate of 7s. per ton. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The inhabitants of Bothkennar are distinguished for their sober 

and industrious habits, and live in the most friendly terms with 
each other. They are most attentive to the public ordinances of 
the Gospel ; and their moral conduct has been such, that there is 
Dot an instance upon record of any individual having been arraign- 
ed or punished for any offence against the laws of his country. 
Since the opening of the colliery in this district, a large propor- 
tion of the parish, as already stated, are employed in that establish- 
ment, whose habits and manners, it is much to be regretted, are 
not such as become the Gospel. Their wages are high, and the 
greater part is spent on the Saturday and Sabbath in public- 
houses, which contributes exceedingly to make them inattentive 
to the ordinances of religion. Very few of them at any time en- 
ter the house of God. 

April 1841. 



PARISH OF MUIRAVONSIDE. 

presbytery of LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JAMES M'FARLAN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name* — The name is commonly pronounced and generally 
iKTitten in ancient records, Moransidcj and is derived, doubtless, 
from the position of the parish otr the river Avon, and its un- 
cultivated aspect in former times. Our silver communion cups, 
however, probably presented to the parish by the Earl of Cal- 
lendar, and Lord of Almond, are said, in 1676, to belong to 
the Church of Almond : this, together with a tradition, that the 
minister once lived at Almond Castle, which is not far from the 
church, makes it probable that the chaplain of the castle, having 
assumed the spiritual superintendence of the district, got it erect- 
ed into a separate parish, as it is repeatedly mentioned among the 
patronages of the Earls of Callendar and Linlithgow, as ancient- 
ly forming part of the parish of Falkirk. 



206 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The length of the parish is aboat 
seven miles : its irregular breadth may average two. The river 
Avon descending towards the north-east, till it turns to the north 
and west, not far from Linlithgow bridge, bounds its extreme 
length on the south^east^ and forms the border of its breadth on 
the north-east, separating it from the parishes of Slamannan, Tor* 
phichen, Linlithgow, and Borrowstounness, till it meets with the 
rivulets which form its less apparent division from Polmont and Sla* 
man nan on the north-west and west. 

Topographical Appearances. — Part of that dreary table-land 
which stretches across the island between the Clyde and the Forth 
is found on its extreme west,— while it occupies five miles of its 
length in descending eastward through ever-varying ridges towards 
the rich fields of Lothian and the luxuriant Carses of the Forth. 
These heights are, for the most part, crested with plantations, and 
embosom well-dressed fields. 

Although none of them exceed the elevation of 400 feet above 
the sea, or of 150 from their own base, yet the remotest Gram- 
pians are seen from many points, — the towers of Stirling, Clack- 
mannan, and Linlithgow, the shores of the Forth and the glen 
of the Devon. On the whole, its ever-varying surface, its wide- 
spread view of friih and plain, of mountain, wood, and tower, 
render its aspect unusually interesting and cheerful. 

Hydrography, — In the clay soil, which occupies two-thirds of this 
parish, springs are deficient, and the inhabitants arc dependent o 
water of an inferior description, taken from ponds or hollows on th 
surface. Many springs in the mosses are so strongly impregnate 
with iron, that they speedily choke their outlets with red ochre, 
the gravel soils, perennial springs are plentiful and strong, some 
times impregnated with minerals, rendering them less useful fo 
household purposes, — an inconvenience rather increased than di 
minished by boiling. As the parish forms an irregular ridge be- 
tween the river Avon and the Carses of the Forth, its proper- 
streams are necessarily small, such as the Hollock, the Mannef, 
and the Sandyford burns. 

The river Avon forms the most remarkable natural feature of the 
parish, which it bounds for nine miles, finding the flood-mark of the 
Forth about two miles below it. This stream is dull, sluggish, and 
swampy near the source, reserving its rapids and its foam for the 
sport of that maturcr strength in which he visits us. The first 
symptom of this disposition is shown on its meeting with a mass 



MUIRAV0N8IDE. 207 

white sandstone at Hillend. The course then becomes more 
^ntle, till it enters among rocks mouldering under the grey- 
58S of age, presenting an ever-changing outline, crested with 
rather and overhanging birch,— a scene befitting rather the re-> 
otest Highlands than the border of the Lothians. Still lower, 
here the flank of the Bathgate hills is cut off by the river between 
\e castle of Carrubber and Muiravonside House, the banks, preci* 
Itous and wooded, are reared nearly 200 feet above the stream, 
II they gradually expand with that valley crossed by the towering 
jueduct which leads the waters of the Union Canal towards their 
estination. 

Scenes still more precipitous and inaccessible are to be found 
n the Avon, as it bursts through the high-ground of Kinneil into 
ae alluvial flatness of the Carse. 

All the rock exposed on its course is sandstone, sometimes 
oarse, sometimes fine-grained, at others, in thin seams, much 
tained with the oxide of iron, — excepting that about Muiravonside 
Souse, which seems a large detachment of the same greenstone 
ock that forms the crest of Cockle Rue, about a mile to the south, 
tad three veins of trap rock, one at Redford, the others on either 
iide of Linlithgow bridge. Away from the banks of the Avon, there 
ire only four detached spots where rock is apparent, and its cha- 
racter will be better understood when we consider the minerals of 
the parish. 

The alluvial deposits to the north-east of the canal are, 
sand, gravel, peat, and marl. The contortions in the sand strata 
are endless ; and such as are fond of theories might have a new 
one at every fathom, or oftener, if need be, and leave much unac- 
counted for, after all. The variety of surface in the gravel district is 
)uite remarkable: it appears in mounds and hillocks of every shape 
ind direction; sometimes inclosing extensive hollows; then a con- 
iderable thickness of marl, and over that, moss. In the midst 
>f these deposits, was found a fine specimen of the ancient elk, 
. horn of which is now deposited in the College Museum of 
Edinburgh. 

To the south-west of the Canal, the whole subsoil is clay, of the 
itiffest texture. It has lately been trenched along five miles of its 
ength by the Slamannan Railway, in some places, to the depth 
:>f forty feet,andexhibits very little variety, — the boulder-stones and 
dispersed gravel being, with few exceptions, ordinary greenstone. 
Rock is scarcely ever found ; if at all, it is of freestone, 







208 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Soil. — The soil of the eastern district is h'ght and gravelly, 
cumbered with many stones, but well inclosed and cultivated; «/ 
the west, cold and wet, excepting by the river side. Much of ke. i? 
still iindrained, unsheltered, uninclosed, though generally uader 
the plough. 

Qtiarries. — Quarries of fine-grained blue whinstone, presentirB^ 
occasionally a vertical columnar fracture, are frequent; and tbev^ 
are two quarries of excellent freestone; that of Manuelrig, extec 
siyely wrought, having vertical fissures filled with the finest hli^^ 
clay, and occasional specimens of petrified equisetum ; and th^^* * 
of Haining having a fracture resembling marble ; perhaps the fine^^ 
grained and most compact specimen of sandstone that can poi 
sibly be found, retaining its angles and chissel*marks unchange 
by the vicissitudes of centuries.* 

Coal is now wrought only at Stanrig and Craigend; but tb^ ^^ 

following strata, excepting only the uppermost coal, have bec^ "^ 

lately ascertained to prevail over the western half of the parish: 

Islf from 5 fathoms to 10 of surface, consisting of stiff clay c 

rock ; 2cf, from 4 feet to 5, fine coal ; 3d^ 33 fathoms of rock strata 

and thin seams of coal ; 4^A, from 2 feet 8 inches to 3 feet of fini 

hard coal ; 5M, 14 fathoms of rock strata and one small seam o 

coal intervening ; 6/A, from 2 feet 6 inches to 3 feet, very finp 

soft coal ; Ith, 23 fathoms of rock strata and various thin seam: 

of coal ; Sth^ 1 foot 6 inches blaise or bituminous shale, con> 

taining three or four bands of ironstone, from 1 to 3 inche 

thick — and, 4 feet inferior coal, with frequent balls of iron ; 

5^ fathoms white rock; lOM, from 3 feet to 4, inferior coal 

11^, 9 fathoms rock strata and various thin seams of coal, and 

good band of ironstone, 10 feet above the next coal ; 12/A, fron^""^^" 

li foot to 3, Middlerig coal; lOth, 5 fathoms white rock ; I4/A^^^» 

2iJ feet of fine coal bored, but not yet seen ; 15/A, 17 fathom. ^^^ 

white freestone, with great quantities of water, some of th^ ^ 

stone exceedingly hard and difiicult to bore. Of these, th 

lower strata are the widest spread, some of them having beei ^ 

found six miles to the southward. The dip declines gently to^ — - 

wards east-north-east, in which direction the upper seams fal 

off, in consequence of the dip of the surface and a great up-dik 

to the north-east ; and no good coal has yet been found in tha*" 

direction. The uppermost coal is of partial extent, even in th 

* A scam of limestone, nine feet thick, han been lately found by Mr Stirling 
Muiravonside, at the foot of (lie bank below tlie caunl nqiieduct. nromising abundan 
supply. 





MUIRAVONSIDE. 209 

richest mineral district, being found to extend only about 30 yards 
round the upper pit at Stanrig, when it suddenly fails; it has been 
foundi by boring, in another part of the parish, but not to any great 
extent. The next seam was the only coal anciently wrought in the 
lands of Parkhall and Craigend, with pits about 30 feet apart, to 
which it was conveyed from hand to hand beneath. Some of the 
under seams of coal.have been wrought in the lands of Muiravonside, 
and these workings have lately been renewed to a considerable ex- 
tent. But the troubles or whinstone-dikes in this coal-field deserve 
attention. The northern or universal dike passes out of the parish at 
Itumford, from the south-east towards Shielhill on the north-west, 
cutting off the whole upper seams of coal from the lower country, 
between Avon and Carron Rivers, — the toils of the borers being 
spent in vain on a mass of unfathomable sandstone. The second 
is parallel, nearly a mile to the soi|th, affording good whinstone 
quarries at Craigend and Craigmad. The third occurs about a 
mile still further south, being very apparent at the Grcencraig of 
Dnimbroider ; and still further south, there are appearances of a 
fourth, whose bearings are not yot known. All tliese dikes send 
off lateral spurs, throwing the perplexed strata sometimes up, 
sometimes down, to the extent of 15 or 20 fathoms, and throwing 
out the upper seams of coal in many places. 

The iron wrought by the Carron Company near Maudiston is 
of the finest, but dispersed over a considerable bulk of ore. Con- 
siderable quantities of iron have been wrought in the lands adjoin- 
ing to Maudiston ; and there can be no doubt that a very great 
breadth of valuable ironstone remains to be wrought in the parish ; 
imt. unfortunately the coal under the ironstone is so very inferior 
iu quality, that it is quite unsaleable at present. 

The only foul air known in the coal-pits is choke-damp or car- 
bonic acid gas. It rises most when the barometer falls. On the 
night of the 27th November 1836, when the Tiviot and other 
streams disappeared from their channels, the rush of Xhis air into 
the ^coal-pits was greater than the oldest miners ever knew of in 
this district.* 

2S0ob^.— In no quarter are the blackbird and the thrush more 
numerous, or the chorus of birds of song more full than, in the 
woods of Almond ; neither are the daw, the magpie, and the jay 
awanting. Foxes, also, are supposed to live in numbcrf^ near us. 

* I beg to express my obligation to William Johnstone, Ksq. of IVIcadowbunl, 
liir hii obliging oommu meat ions regarding the coal strata of the parislt. 

STIRUNC O 




2l0 STlRLINQSHlRf, 

Botany. — The whin, the broom, the wild-rose, and the honey- 
Buckle were the great possessors of our eastern soil, about half a 
century ago, when they yielded to the improving skill of the late 
Mr Forbes of Cailendar, in whose ample farm roads they still 
abound. Such a thicket was the country then, that, when cattle 
were once turned out, it was no easy matter to trace tbemin their 
wanderings; but the example of that landlord, and access to 
Edinburgh manure by the Canal, have entirely changed the bo- 
tanical aspect of the parish. 

II. — Civil History. 
In several returns of the earldom of Linlithgow, which were 

made in the seventeenth century, this parish is reckoned among its 
patronages, and it is declared in ancient times to have been an* 
nexed to the parish of Falkirk. The date of disjunction is un- 
known ; but the names of Bruce, Urie, Campbell, Bennet, Boyd, 
Bertram, and Macall, ministers, predecessors in the church ol 
Moranside, from 1660 till 1834, attest its independent existeni 
throughout the greater part of Protestant times. It is named 
separate parish in 1606, the date of the oldest presbytery record.. 

The origin of the most ancient remains in the parish is involvt 
in deep obscurity. They consist of a series of fortiBed eminenc^i^ 
extending from Harlelaw, near Easter Manuel, by Castlehill, t» 
Sight Ilill. The last two present a steep face of about 150 fe 
in height to the valley of the Avon, upon which a triple trenc' 
had been formed, presenting now the appearance of three paralla 
roads towards the north-east, as if the attack were expected frou 
that quarter. Whether they were raised by the original Ce' 
tic inhabitants against Danish invaders from the Lothians,* Ci 
to retard the advance of the Romans or the Scots towards Cam9 
Ion, long defended against both, -f- it is impossible now to deter 
mine with any certainty. The quantity of stone coffins found m 
Linlithgow Bridge, Castle Hill, Sight Hill, and Brakes, on tl 
flanks and in the rear of these defences, leave no doubt that tK 
place was one of carnage. It is not believed that any remain 
decidedly Roman have been found nearer than Justing Haugr 
half a mile to the eastward of Avon. 

At Ballenbriech, on the Avon, three miles to the westward ^f 
the parish church, there are ruins, as tradition says, of a 
chapel. Those of Manuel are sufficiently known to have beloD. 

• Chalmcps's C'aledoijia. -j. UoUnsbcd. 




MUIRAV0N9IDE. ^ 311 

d to a coDvent of Cistertian nuns, founded by Malcolm IV. in 
.156, consecrated to the Virgin; yet the name seems to indi- 
ate a prior settlement by the Culdees, to whom the name Ema- 
luel was dear. Its revenues were increased by succeeding sove« 
eigns, and in 1292, the prioress, Christiana, and in 1296, her suc- 
essor, Alice, swore fealty to Edward I. at Linlithgow. 

The history of the Castle of Almond is more obscure. It was ' 
nciently k*own by the name of Haining, or more rarely Manuel, 
nd seems to have owed itsorigin to the Crawfurds of Haining, a 
amily of note in the reign of James III., one of whom was Abbot 
f Holyrood, and Treasurer of Scotland, under that sovereign. 
rhe stag's head and antlers, which formed the crest of their ar- 
Dorial bearings, show their descent from that Crawfurd who res- 
cued King David from the deer, on the spot where Holyrood 
K>w stands. This much is certain, from the retour of Agnes 
Crawfurd, whose marriage in 1540 transferred the castle to the 
Eeunily of Livingstone, that it wai^ then a manorial residence of 
note. In that family it continued till, in 1633, the name of Al- 
nood was given to it, and Sir James Livingstone, second son of 
the 6rst Earl of Linlithgow, was created a baron by that title. 
However, although it became the ground of this title, and appears 
very frequently as held for the Crown by the Earls of Linlithgow, 
the Castle of Almond was possessed, for about two centuries, by the 
descendants of Thomas Livingstone of Haining, a cadet of that 
noble family, with which the Learmonths of Parkhall and Craig- 
end, in the neighbourhood, are doubly connected by marriage. 
About the middle of last century, it ceased to be inhabited ; and 
still remains a fine specimen of the strength and durability of the 
materials and masonry of ancient times. 

Of more recent date is Linlithgow Bridge, built by Alexander 
E^rl of Linlithgow, about the year 1650, as appears by a grant 
if its customs to Earl George, by Charles II., in 1677. Con- 
rasting with these, are two of the finest bridges reared in modern 
imes, one bearing the Union Canal, and the other the Edinburgh 
iod Glasgow Railway, over the river and valley of the Avon. 
rbe first is of twelve arches, some of which look down one hundred 
:eet upon the stream, — and so covered are the banks with foliage, 
that the mighty fairy-like work seems resting on green leaves. The 
lecond, for the railway, consists of more than twenty arches, all of 
Fair proportion, and substantial masonry. 



212 STIRLINQSHIRE. 

A mile above Manuel, is a place named Fechtin Foord, tradi- 
tionally reported as the scene of a feud between the shepherds of 
the opposite banks ; and to the northward two circular eminences, 
rounded by art for purposes unknown. 

Land-owners, — William Forbes, Esq. of Callendar, late Mem- 
ber for the county, is principal land-owner ; and, although not re- 
sident himself, does all to remedy that disadvantage, by his libe- 
rality to the poor and parochial institutions of the parish. There 
are thirty* six proprietors of estates, or parcels of land, in the pa- 
rish. Several of the last inherit the perpetual feus granted by the 
last Earl of Linlithgow, in order to raise money for carrying on 
the Rebellion of 1715. Twenty -one are resident; seven of inde- 
pendent fortune. 

III. — Population. 

Amount of population in 1801, . 1070 

1811, . ISSO 

1821, . 1678 

1831, . 1540 

The actual^ population cannot be short of 1700, including from 
200 to 300 strangers at work on the Slamannan Railway. Indeed, 
the immense fields of coal now proved to lie within the parish, and 
the increasing facilities of export, make it unlikely that it should 
ever fall below that number. If we except twenty-five families of 
colliers lately settled, and an unusually large proportion of masons, 
the population is entirely agricultural, interspersed with the ne- 
cessary tradesmen. 

The number of families settled is 300. 

There is one insane person under restraint ; three too weak in 
mind to be employed in labour. 

The people are industrious, sober, and kind, especially to others 
in distress. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The whole parish is arable, excepting plantations 
and mosses, not probably amounting to a twentieth part. The 
average rent per acre about L. 1, 12s. 

Sheep is a rare stock, the fences not containing them ; for the 
same reason, cattle are uniformly herded in the day, and housed 
at night, in the west. In the eastern division, the quality of stock 
is excellent; and they are turnip fed through the winter to a con- 
siderable extent, and have fences sufficient for their pastures. 
There also, the system of husbandry is good ; and furrow-drain- 



MUIRAVONSIDE. 213 

ings extend to the westward^ where it is much needed. Police 
dung from Edinburgh is employed to a great extent. Lime also 
from the neighbouring parish of Linlithgow, is largely used. The 
&rm-buildings are much improved, being adapted in the east to 
&rms of 300 or 400 acres ; in the west, to 40 or 50. In the small 
farms, the want of shelter and inclosure and capital is great. 

The farms in the eastern district are generally allotted into five 
parts, — two in grass, one in green crop, one in wheat or barley, one 
in oats. The grass, including hay, may be reckoned at L.5 ; green 
crop L.16; the grain at L.6 per acre ; and though the system of 
farming to the westward is various, and the soil inferior, the extent 
of surface may render its produce double. 

The gross annual produce may be stated thus : Grain, L.20,000 ; 
green crop, L. 10,400; hay and grass, L.7850; in all, L.38,250. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Town. — Falkirk, though five miles distant, is the market- 
town for the parish, rather than Linlithgow, which is distant but 
three. Maudiston, hanging in picturesque confusion on the slope 
of its hill, and by the sides of its bridge, is the principal village. 
Our means of communication are ample. The Stirling and Edin- 
burgh road, the Union Canal, a railway nearly finished by Sla- 
inannan to Glasgow, another commenced between Glasgow and 
Edinburgh, all intersect the parish. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The church and manse were built within 
these thirty years, and are sufficient and in good repair ; but the for- 
mer, being within two miles of the east end, and six of the west, 
IS) especially in bad weather, inaccessible to many. It may accom- 
modate 600. The glebe is worth L. 12 a year. The stipend, 
chiefly money, from L.240 to L.260. The attendance at the 
parish church is good ; in that of the United Secession, small ; 
one-sixth of the population only dissenting. Our communicants 
are 280 in number. Church collections, L.50. 

Education, — There are two schools. The parish school has 
the maximum salary, a glebe of 6 acres, and 100 well taught 
scholars, several in Latin, and the greater part learning reading, 
writing, arithmetic, grammar, and geography. The second school, 
with an excellent free house at Avonbridge, is under the control 
of the parents of the children attending ; it is at present flourishing. 

Library, — There is a parochial library of 120 volumes. 

Poor. — There are 14 paupers, receiving from 48. to 12s. a 



!tl4 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

moDth. Occasional relief is given to others. Amount of iocomet 
L. 80 a year. Several consider the occasional relief degrading. 
The average yearly amount of assessment for the years 1835, 
1836, and 1837, was L.37, 14s. 8d. 

Jnns. — There are 6 public-houses. 

Fuel — Peats are sent to the neighbouring distilleries in consi- 
derable quantity ; but coals are generally used in the parish. 

MiSCBLLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 

The progress of cultivation has entirely changed the appearance 
of the parish, since the date of the last Account. At that time, it 
would seem every one sought to grind his own meal. There were 
17 mills within the parish : now, there is but one com and flour- 
mill, one saw and two flax-mills. The feudal oppression which 
bound the vassal to the superior's mill is now not heard of. The 
access to markets and superior mills is much increased ; and no 
district has improved more rapidly under (he superior means of 
communication which the age afibrds. 

^;7ri71841. 



PARISH OF LOGIE. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUNBLANE, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. WILLIAM ROBERTSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The name Logie is of very common occurrence in 
Scotland. It is said to be derived from the Gaelic Lap or Laggie^ 
signifying low or flat ground. 

Extent — The extreme length of the parish from north to south 
is between 6 and 7 miles ; and its extreme breadth from east to 
west, about 6. 

Boundaries, — It is bounded on the north, by the parish of Dun- 
blane ; on the south, by the river Forth, which divides it from the 
parishes of Stirling and St Ninians ; on the west, by Lecropt and 
Dunblane ; and on the east, by Alva and Alloa. 

Topographical Appearances. — The shape of this parish is very 
irregular, owing to the windings of the Forth, which forms its 

4 



LOOIE. 215 

souiheni bouDdary. From the Forth to the foot of the Ochil 
hills, the country is a. dead level, of rich and highly cultivated carse 
grouDd, presenting a remarkable and pleasing contrast with this 
bold and almost perpendicular range of hills, rising suddenly 
from the' plain to the height of 2500 feet. In the parish of 
Logi6| the Ochils are almost entirely destitute of wood, except 
in the immediate vicinity of Airthrey Castle ; but their lofty and 
precipitous front, stretching in one long unbroken chain from 
west to east, clothed with rich pasture, interrupted by rugged pre- 
cipices and bare rocks, presents to the eye one of the most pic- 
turesque and beautiful mountain ranges to be found in Scotland. 
The most remarkable peak in this, parish is Demyat, well known 
to the tourist as commanding one of the most extensive and finely 
di?ersi6ed views in the kingdom. From its summit, the Forth, 
the chief of Scottish rivers, may be traced almost from its source 
in Loch Ard, as far as the German Ocean. Edinburgh is dis- 
tinctly seen, and it is even said that the coast of Ireland is some- 
tiroes visible. The well known windings of the Forth, and the 
more humble, but hardly less picturesque meanderings of the De- 
von, " Stirling's ancient tower and town," the ruins of Cambus- 
kenneth Abbey, and the beautiful domain of Airthrey Castle, 
form the most striking objects in the immediate foreground, while 
the view on the north and west, bounded by the lofty summits of 
the Grampians, extends on the south as far as the hills of Peebles- 
shire. 

Climate, — The climate of the low lands of the parish of Logie 
is peculiarly mild and healthy, on which account, as well as for 
the beneBt of goat-whey, the village of Blair Logie and its neigh- 
bourhood, at the foot of the Ochils, have long been a favourite 
resort for invalids in spring and summer. The mountainous dis- 
trict of the parish (which is inhabited by only five or six families,) 
enjoys a much keener, though not less healthy atmosphere. The 
improvement of agriculture has tended, in a remarkable degree, to 
improve the general healthiness of the district. The land being 
thoroughly drained, and brought into the highest state of cultiva- 
tion, ague, and other distempers, endemic in wet marshy situations, 
and formerly very prevalent in this country, have entirely disap- 
peared; while the great number of inhabitants who reach a very 
advanced period of life, afford the best proof of the salubrity of the 
climate. Infectious distempers are but little known, and even the 



216 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

cholera, which made great ravages in the neighbouring districtSi 
never spread itself in this parish. 

Hydrography. — The Frith of Forth, which bounds the parish 
on the south, is navigable for vessels of considerable burden as far 
as Stirling, at high tide, forming one of the most miportant 
means of inland water communication in the kingdom. The water 
is thick and muddy, the banks low, slimy, and covered with reeds 
and sedges. 

The Devon and the Allan, which bound the parish on the east 
and west respectively, have been rendered classic streams by Bums 
and Scott. The Devon, near its source among the Ochils, is a 
very romantic stream. lis course is peculiarly circuitous and 
winding. After having made the circuit of the whole range of 
the Ochils, it falls into the Forth at Cambus, in the parish of 
Alloa, almost directly opposite the spot where it rises on the op* 
posite side of the hills. The parish is well watered by numerous 
mountain streams, and springs of the finest water. 

The only piece of standing water is a beautiful little artificial 
lake in Airthrey Park. 

Airthrey Mintral Spring. — The mineral spring now so celebrat-^ 
ed, and so much resorted to by invalids, rises on the estate of 
Airthrey, on the high grounds above the village of Bridge of Allan. .» 
It was discovered in the course of working the Airthrey copper 
mine, from the sole of which it springs. The miners, conceivi 
. it to be a common salt spring, made use of it for culinary purposes,^ 
and gave it a decided preference to all .other water. There an 
four springs in all, though Dr Thomson of Glasgow, owing 
some mistake, which I have not heard accounted for, has give 
analyses of six distinct springs. *^ Of these four springs, num 
bers 1 and 2, (commonly called the Weak Water,) are convey 
into the same reservoir and used together ; No. 3, the Stron 
Water, is used alone ; and No. 4, which issues from the rock 
the western wall of the mine, is not used. It is a scanty springes 
termed the Black Spring, in consequence of its depositing in th^ 
natural basin, into which it is received, a black substance, which 
has not been examined." (Forrest's Report.) The following is a 
copy of the results of Dr Thomson's analysis, as published in the 
Airthrey Table in the pump-room : 

" Springs, No. 1 and 2; specific gravity, 1.00714. 1000 grains 
contain, 

3 



N 






I.OGIE. 2\T 



Common salt, • . 5.1 graitu. 

Muriate of lime, . . 4.674 

Sulphate of lime, . . 0.26 



13.034 

One piut contains, 

Common salt, . 37. i5 grains. 

Muriate of lime, 34.32 

Sulphate of lime, . . 1.19 



73.68 

^ Spring, No. 3; specific gravity, 1.00915. 1000 grains con* 

Common salt, • 6.746 grains. 

Muriate of lime, . . 5 826 

Sulphate of lime, . 0.716 

Muriate of magnesia, . 0.086 



13.374 

A wine piut contains, 

Common salt, . • . 47.534 grains. 

Muriate of lime, . 38.461 
Sulphate of lime, . . 4.715 

Muriate of magnesia, . 0.450 



89.160 

^' Spring, Not 4, (as before-mentioned not used, and on which 
^^cicount not mentioned in the Airthrey Table) ; specific gravity, 
^ ^00984; contains. 

Common salt, • . 537.567 grains. 

Muriate of lime, 282.769 

Sulphate of lime, 26.084 

Muriate of magnesia, . 2.438 



848.858 

** On the 18th November 1830, the temperature of the water 
^f spring No. 3, as it issues from the rock in the mine, was 51.^25. 
^t the same time the temperature of the air of the mine was 52^. 
The temperature, as it falls from the pump in the pump-room, 
about an hour after the preceding observations in the mine, was 
49.^25, the air of the room being at the same time 49.^50. The 
quantity of water delivered by this spring in twenty- four hours 
was, on the 18th November 1830, in round numbers, 1260 impe- 
rial gallons ; and the tacksman informs me that the supply is not 
much afiected by the seasons. The water is transparent and co- 
lourless, and destitute of smell. Its taste is bitter and unplea- 
sant. 

" On the same day, the average temperature of the two springs 
Mos. 1 and 2 was 50**, the temperature of the mine being 52 



5 

O 



218 8T1RLINGSHIBE. 

The temperature of the water as it fell from the pump, 47^60. 
The quantity of water delivered by these springs in twenty -four 
hours, was 360 imperial gallons. The tacksman, however, states. 
that this supply is far below the average ; and he attributes tht 
deficiency to leakage in the pipes. He thinks that, in general, the 
supply of the weak water equals that of the strong. The weak 
water, like the strong, is transparent and colourless, and destitute of 
smell. Its taste, though rather bitter, is by no means unpleasant." 
(Forrest's Report.) 

The value of these springs, in a medicinal point of view, is un- 
questioned. Considered as a saline aperient, the Airthrey waters 
far surpass those of Piteaithly and Dunblane ; and are only infe- 
rior in the amount of their impregnation to some of the springs at 
Cheltenham and Leamington. " It may be even doubted,*' says 
Mr Forrest, " if they are not entitled to take precedence of these 
springs." As a remedy for scrofula, the same gentleman ranks 
them second only to the waters of Piteaithly, on account of tbeir 
richness in muriate of lime ; and the Airthrey spring. No. 4, he 
considers as decidedly superior even to these last mentioned in this 
point of view. But, if the value of a mineral water is to be infer- 
red not only from the facts furnished by its chemical analysis, but 
also from experience of the benefits arising from its use, the 
Airthrey springs must be placed in the very highest rank among 
the mineral springs of Great Britain. Every season adds to their 
reputation ; and, in defiance of all the inconveniences of very indif- 
ferent accommodation in the neighbouring lodging-houses, the 
numbers that repair thither in search of health are every year 
rapidly increasing. It is much to be regretted tliat both the lodg- 
ing-houses, and the pump-room itself, are still in a style so little 
corresponding to tlie increasing fame of the waters, and the num- 
ber of visitors.* I am told, that, during the present season, near- 
ly 500 persons have drunk of the waters in one day; and 
numerous families are every year obliged to return home for want 
of accommodation, even of the meanest kind. The pump-room 
is small and mean. A very neat building, in the cottage 
style, has, however, been lately erected by Lord Abercromby, and 
conveniently fitted up with hot, cold, and shower baths. It is great- 

' Since the above was written, the acconinriodation at Bridge-of Allan has been 
much improved, by the erection of a considerable number of very comfortable lodging- 
houses ; and, as the increase of visitors seems fully to keep pace with the increase of 
accommodation, we may expect that more will be built shortly. 



LOOIE. 219 

ly to be wished that some enterprizing individual would establish 
an hotel, after the model of those at Harrogate or Pitcaithly, 
whichj if properly managed, could not fail of making a very con- 
siderable return. For a more particular account of these springs, 
and of the particular diseases in which they have been found be- 
neficial, the reader is referred to the very distinct and circumstan- 
tial Report, already so often quoted, by Mr William Hutton For- 
rest, surgeon in Stirling. 

For the following account of the Geology and Mineralogy of 
the parish, I am indebted to the kindness of Robert Bald, Esq. 
Civil-Engineer. 

Geology. — This parish, in a geological point of view, is divided 
into two distinct portions, both as regarding the alluvial covers or 
deposit above the rocks, and the rocks themselves. This line of 
division runs in an east and west direction. Upon the north side 
of this line are the Ochil Hills, and on the south side of it is the 
arable land declining to the river Forth. 

The Ochils are composed of trap rocks, generally supposed to 
be of volcanic origin. The beds are of various thickness, nearly 
vertical, having their dip to the south. The veins in them run in 
a northerly direction, with a few exceptions. 

The rocks under the land to the south of the Ochils, and in 
contact with them, are of the coal formation, being a continuation 
of the Clackmannanshire coal-field, which commences about a 
mile east from Dollar, at the foot of the Ochils. No trials of any 
extent have been made for coal in this parish ; and there is very 
little hope of finding any of a workable thickness, because it is evi- 
dent that the strata belong to the lowest series which compose the 
great coal-field of Scotland. 

The rocks of this formation not having been laid open at the 
foot of the Ochils, no account can be given of the dip next their 
£ace ; but there is every reason to conclude, that, as they are a 
continuation of the Clackmannanshire coal-field, which, along the 
face of the Ochils, is of a trough shape, the strata here will dip 
and rise in the same manner, that is, they will rise quickly to the 
north, along the foot of the hills, and, forming a trough to the 
south, will there rise with a moderate inclination to the south. It 
is evident that the western end of the trough is in this parish, as 
the coal strata are seen rising to the west, near Causewayhead. 

The Ochils, being of trap rock, are various in their composi- 



220 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

lion, hardness, and colour. The amygdaloid rock is abundant, 
with agates and calc-spar of a globular form disseminated. Along 
the face of the hilla, and particularly to the westward, is a thick 
bed of conglomerate rock, or breccia, having a dark*brown colour- 
ed arenaceous base, in which are imbedded fragments of trap rock, 
chiefly angular. 

The coal formation rocks are chiefly sandstone, of various shades 
of white and red, with alternating beds of slate-clay, in which are 
found beds and balls of common clay ironstone. Some thin beds 
of coarse limestone are also found. 

In the midst of these strata of the coal formation, where they 
rise to the west and form the west end of the trough or basin, 
rises the remarkable rock known by the name of Abbey Craig. It 
is a trap rock, and of that kind denominated greenstone. It rises 
from the east to the west, at an inclination of about one in four, 
and terminates in a very abrupt craggy precipice of about 500 feet 
in height from the plain. From the foot of the precipice there is 
a sloping foot or glacier of about half of the height, and this slope 
is covered with very large boulders, and immense masses of the 
rock which have fallen from the precipice. This rock of Abbey 
Craig is, in every respect, both with regard to texture, general 
form, and dip, precisely similar to the Stirling Castle and Craig- 
forth Rocks, in the immediate vicinitv. 

The natural divisions or fissures of the Abbey Craig Rock are 
the same as in all greenstone rocks, that is, they are at right angles 
to the sole or bed on which it rests ; so that the precipice presents 
a rude columnar form. 

The greenstone rock does not compose the whole height of 
Abbey Craig from the plain on the west, it being only about 250 
feet thick, or nearly the half of the whole height The strata 
found under it are composed of the various coal strata before-men- 
tioned. Here some trials have been made for coal and limestone ; 
the latter, of a coarse quality, was found ; also argillaceous iron- 
stone, but no mineral of a workable value. It is, however, thought, 
from the analogy of similar strata, that a workable limestone may 
be found in this quarter. 

The greenstone is composed of felspar and hornblende, and, 
when broken, presents a rough crystallized appearance. 

With regard to organic remains, none have been found in the 
Ochils. This circumstance constitutes one of the chief discri- 



LOGIE. 321 

minating characters of this class of rocks. In the coal formation 
adjoining, the usual organic remains have been found. 

The only ore found in this parish, and wrought to some extent, 
is copper. It was found in veins. 

The simple minerals, found in the trap rocks are, small rock 
crystals, calc-6par, heavy spar, ironstone, agates, felspar, and 
hornblende. 

The alluvial deposits upon the Ochils are chiefly composed of 
the debris of the rocks, mixed with sandy loam and gravel ; and 
at the foot of the Ochils, from the village of Menstrie to the west- 
ward of Airthrey Castle, are undulated banks, mounds, and knolls 
of loam, sand, and gravel, in which are occasionally large boulders. 
This deposit of gravel appears to have been occasioned by the 
opening which had once existed betwixt the Abbey Graig and the 
Ochils. All the alluvial deposits south of the face of the Ochils, 
and those mounds of gravel, are of a more recent formation than 
that before-mentioned, being evidently formed by the tides in the - 
River Forth. In Scotland, this deposit is known by the name of 
carse land, and is very fertile. The surface has a declination to 
the River Forth, quite imperceptible. In the eastern part of the 
parish, it reaches to the rocky foot of the Ochils, from which they 
rise abmptly without any intermediate deposit. This alluvial depo- 
sit is of very various depth. Bores have been put down above 30 
feet before reaching the rock ; but in all the bores put down to 
the south of Abbey Craig, no rock has been found ; indeed, there 
is reason to conclude that it is of a very great depth. 

The upper part of this deposit is a strong adhesive clay, from 
three to six feet in thickness, under which is a very soft silt o^ 
sleech of a dark bluish-black colour. In this silt is uniformly found 
a bed of sea-shells mixed with sand. The varieties of these are the 
same as those found recently at Leith ; but the most numerous 
are those of the common oyster, mussel, and cockle. This bed of 
shells extends for miles both to the east and west of Abbey Craig. 
The most remarkable animal remain found in this parish, in 
this deposit, was the entire skeleton of a whale, which, according 
to the measurements which were made, must have been fully seventy 
feet long. It was found in the year 1819, in the course of some 
draining operations carrying on by the late Sir Robert Abercromby 
in the estate of Airthrey. The place where it was found was adjoin- 
ing the south side of the turnpike-road east from the eastern por- 
ter's lodge, which leads to Airthrey Castle, and near to the north 



222 BTIRLINQSHIRE. 

verge of the alluvial deposit of the River Forth. The bones- wer», 
in general, hard and undecayed, and lay in regular connected 
order from the head to the tail. They were imbedded in the blue 
silt immediately under the stiff clay. It was found, from very accu- 
rate levels taken, that this skeleton lay twenty-two feet higher 
than the pitch of the present highest stream-tides of the River 
Forth, immediately opposite. From which circumstance there is 
reason to conclude, that the highest tides of the River Forth are, 
in this district, at least twenty-six feet lower than they were at the 
time when the whale was stranded ; and it is evident that this must 
have been many centuries before the Romans invaded this country, 
as there was till lately upon the side of the Forth, near the farm- 
house of the manor, a Roman fort, — and the Manor Ford, which 
had been connected with the fort, and formed of loose stones, re- 
mains to the present day. These circumstances prove, that the 
Forth has not changed its course in this immediate district for an 
immense period of years. 

Sir Robert Abercromby was at all due pains to have the bones 
very carefully dug up, and carried to a safe place in his court 
of offices ; and then, in the^ most liberal and polite manner, pre- 
sented the whole to the museum of the Edinburgh University. 
The immense canine-bone and ribs, and a few of the vertebrae, 
are to be seen at the head of the lower room of the museum. It 
is remarkable that one of the ribs had been broken and knit again, 
as the bone is much thicker at that place. 

Several veins have been opened and explored in this parish, in search 
of copper in the Ochils, but none yielded copper in any quantity, 
excepting the vein at the Mine House. The vein is in the con- 
glomerate or breccia rock ; it runs in a northerly direction, an4 was 
drained by a day level, carried up from the flat alluvial land, the 
mouth of which '\3 on the north side of the turnpike-road, and im- 
mediately adjoining it. The late Williams, the mineralogist, visited 
this mine, many years ago ; and he states in his works that the ap- 
pearances of copper were good in the sole of the mine ; but the 
vein can be wrought no deeper without the aid of machinery. 

About forty years ago, this copper mine, after having been for 
a long time abandoned as an unprofitable adventure, was opened 
by the Caledonian Mining Company, and wrought with consider- 
able enterprise and spirit After they had accumulated a quantity 
of dressed ore, and the vein appearing favourable for being pro- 
ductive, they erected at Alloa smelting-furnaces, where excellent 



LOGIE. 223 

copper was produced ready for the manufaclurer; but the promis- 
ing appearances failed, and, after much loss, the adventure was 
given up and the furnaces taken down. 

Both yellow and grey copper ores were found, but chiefly the 
yellow; the accompanying minerals were calc-spar and heavy-spar. 

The ironstone found in the coal formation was the common ar- 
gillaceous kind, which yields about 30 per cent of iron. 

There are a few open quarries in this parish. One is of sand- 
stone near Causewayhead, but the stone is only fit for very infe« 
rior purposes. Tliere are several quarriies in the Ochils for stones, 
suitable for making and repairing of roads ; and a quarry at Abbey 
Craig has been wrought for a long period of years, not only for 
the making of roads, but for gate-posts and masonry. It is parti- 
cularly to be noticed, that those portions of it which, when broken, 
present a rough crystallized surface, have been extensively used 
for the grinding of wheat. 

As the chief supply of mill-stones used in the kingdom, for the 
manufacture of flour, was imported from France, it was with the 
greatest difficulty they could be procured during the long war with 
France, and that at a most enormous price, — on which account, 
the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, London, offered a 
premium of L.105 to the person who would find in Great Britain 
a rock, from which mill-stones could be made for the manufacture 
of flour, as a substitute for the French mill-stones, known by the 
names of Bhurr-stones. 

The Abbey Craig rock, on account of its rough surface when 
broken, was thought by James Brownhill, miller at the Alloa mills, 
to be suitable for the manufacture of flour ; and from it he made 
a pay* of mill-stones, the first which ever had been made from that spe- 
cies of rock. These, when brought to trial, produced flour in every 
point equal to that produced from the French mill-stones. A pair 
of the Abbey Craig mill-stones were sent to London, and the So- 
cietv of Arts were so fullv satisfied with the execution of these 
stones, and the quality of the flour produced, that they awarded 
their premium of L.105 to James Brownhill for the discovery. 

The Abbey Craig mill-stones are built or composed of a num- 
ber of pieces, similar to the French mill-stone. They have a very 
uniform cutting surface, but require to be more frequently picked 
or dressed than the French stones ; but a very slight dressing is 
necessary and is quickly done. They require no alum, whereas the 
numerous large cells, with which the French mill-stones abound, 



224 



STIRLINGSHIRE. 



required to be filled with melted alum every time the stones are 
dressed, which is a constant expense. 

More than three hundred pairs of these mill-stones have been 
made from the Abbey Craig rock, both for the manufacture of 
flour and for distillery purposes, for which they are also peculiarly 
suitable; they cost from L. 12 to L.20 a pair, at the time a pair 
of French mill-stones cost from L. 45 to L.60; but since the es- 
tablishment of peace with France, the French mill-stones have 
fallen very low in price, while the cost of the Abbey Craig stones 
remains the same as formerly, so that there is now comparatively 
little demand for the latter. 

Zoology. — The zoology of this parish differs but little from that 
of the rest of Scotland. The Ochil hills abound in rabbits. Foxes 
are not numerous. Game of the ordinary sorts is abundant. 
There are a good many grouse to be found on the hills, and a few 
pheasants on the low grounds and plantations. Squirrels are very 
numerous in the woods of Airthrey. Hawks of various kinds are to 
be met with, and the blue hunting falcon occasionally makes his nest 
on Dunmyat. Deer are to be met with on the hills, but they are 
not numerous. The hill streams abound in trout ; and both the 
Devon and Allan are frequented by lovers of the angle. The sal- 
mon of the Forth are well known ; but there is no fishing*station in 
this parish. 

Botany, — The following list of rare or interesting phaenogamous 
plants found in the parish of Logic, is copied from Mr Forrest's 
Report, formerly alluded to : 



Agrostis cnnina 
Vaccinium uliginosum 
— — Oxycoccos 
Solidago Virgaurca 
Poa aquatica 
Sparganiura simplex 
S3rTnphytum officinale 
Slum latifolium 
firiza media 
Juniperus communis 
Llex nanus 
Fumaria claviculata 
Scirpus pauciflorus 
Convallaria niajalis 
Anagallis arvensis 



Lysimachia Nummulariu 
Sedum villosum 
Juncus glaucus 
Agrimonia Eupatoria 
Reseda Luteola* 
Mentha rubra 
Tanacetum vulgarc 
Ribes nigrum 
Ononis arvensis 
Scrophularia nodosa 
Aster Tripolium 
Valeriana officinalis 
Caltha palustris 
Digitalis purpureaf 
Atropa Bclladona^ 



Gnaphalium germanicum 
Saxifraga granulata 
Anthyllis vulneraria 
Malva moschata 
Lychnis viscaria 
Cistus helianthcmum 
Epilobium angustifolium 
Arenaria verua 
Echium vul^are 
Cichoriuni Intybus 
Chrysanthemum segettim 
Scabiosa arvensis 
Asperula odorata 
Rosa arvensis 
Geum urbanum 



* This plant is found in great abundance at the foot of Dunmyat. It was used 
in dyeing woollen stuffs of a yellow colour. 

•f- 'I he variety with the white flower is found on the Ochils near Menstrie. 

X Abounds on the Abbey Craig. The berries of this plant are highly poisonouii. 
The effects are best counteracted by drinking freely of vinegar. 



LOOiE. 225 

Gcum rivalc Geranium pratense Se<Ium rcflexum f 

Punus Cerasus r- dissectiini * Mimulusluteus;}: 

The principal plantations are on the estate of Airthrey on the 
Ochils, and are in a thriving condition. There are no very an- 
cient trees. 

II. — Civil History. 

As might be expected from its neighbourhood to the important 
fortress of Stirling, the parish of Logic is not deficient in the glo- 
ries of old days* It was the scene of one of the most splendid 
victories of the Scottish patriot, Wallace, the battle of Stirling, 
September 13, 1297. It was on the hill called Abbey Craig that 
the Scottish army was posted the night before the engagement, 
and the scene of action itself appears to have been about the place 
now called Corntown. 

Eminent Men. — Of important events within the memory of man, 
Logie has little to boast ; but there are some names connected with 
the parish of which it may well be proud. The Earls of Stirling were 
originally barons of Menstrie, in this parish. They are mentioned 
in history so far back as 1505. The first Earl of Stirling was Wil- 
liam, sixth Baron of Menstrie, born in 1580. He was an accom- 
plished scholar and poet, and much esteemed by James VI., from 
whom he received the honour of knighthood. In 1621, he ob- 
tained a grant of extensive lands in North America, and settled 
the colony of Nova Scotia. Charles I. appointed him Lieutenant 
of Nova Scotia, gave him a power of selling that territory in lots 
of not more than 150 individuals, who were to be invested with 
the title of Baronet, and rank above all knights, except the Equi- 
tes auraiu His Majesty conferred upon hini also the privilege of 
coining a small copper money called ** Turners.'' He was made 
a member of Privy-Council, Secretary of State, Keeper of the 
Signet in Scotland, Commissioner of Exchequer, Senator of the 
College of Justice: and at the coronation in Holyrood House, 
June 1633, was created Earl of Stirling, Viscount Canada, Lord 
Alexander of Tillibody, to his heirs-male. He died in London, 
on the 12th February, and was interred in Stirling on the 12th 
April 1640. He acquired considerable reputation as a poet. Be* 

• Is very abundant in the fields. In 1827, the hay crop in thi'i neiglibourhood 
was very much injured by this plant. It had evidently been sown with the setd. 

t A ftpecimen of this plant is growing on the roof of a house in the village of Causc- 
wayhead beside Sempervivum tectorum. 

t ( Flora Americee Septentrionalis,' p. 426,) is found.on the banks of the Forth below 
Causewayhead, at a great disuncc from gardens, and perfectly natumlized. 

STIRLING. P 



226 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

sides love sonnets and a variety of soialler pieces, he published tra- 
gedies under the title of " Elegiac Dialogues Tor the Instruction of 
the Great." His " Paroenesis or Exhortation to Government," 
addressed to Prince Henry, is a poem of no common merit. His 
largest production, a sacred poem, entitled " Doomsday," was 
finished 1614. Speaking of his works, Mr Addison observes, " I 
have read them over with the greatest satisfaction." 

Alexander Hume, minister of Logie, appears with some degree 
bf distinction among the early Scottish poets.. He was the second 
son of Patrick Hume of Polwarth, from whom the noble family of 
Marchmont derived its lineage. (Wood's Peerage, Vol. ii. p. 17a) 
He is supposed to have been born about the year 1560, and to 
have been partly educated in the University of St Andrews. He 
was originally destined for the Bar, and he followed the visual me* 
thod of preparation by completing his studies in France ; but, be- 
ing disgusted with the profession of a lawyer, he afterwards endea- 
voured to obtain preferment at Court, where his elder brother, Pa- 
trick, who was likewise a poet, possessed considerable influence. 
In an epistle written when he was thirty years of age, and addres* 
Bed to Dr Moncrieff, Physician to the King, " his tender friend, 
Moncrieff, mediciner," he communicates several particulars of 
his early history. His experience of the Court was not moresatis- 
factory ; and, having finally directed his views to the church, he was 
appointed minister of Logie in the year 1598. Here he remained 
till the period of his death, 4th December 1609. Hume is the au- 
thor of a volume, printed by Robert Waldegrave, under the title of 
" Hymnes, or Sacred Songs, wherein the right use of Poesie may be 
espied. Whereunto areadded the experience of the author's youth, 
andcertaine precepts serving to the practise ofsanctification." Edin- 
burgh, 1599, 4to. This volume has been reprinted as a contri- 
bution to the Bannatyne Club. Edinburgh, 1S32, 4to. These 
poems, which are dedicated to Lady Culross, are creditable to 
the moral and religious feelings of the author, nor are they alto- 
gether destitute of energy. They cannot, indeed, be commended 
as containing much that deser\'es the name of poetry, but they 
are at least superior to most of the pious effusions of that age. 
His sacred songs are eight in number, including a poem chi^y 
descriptive of " the Day Estival ;" and another on the defeat 
of the Spanish Armada. His description is rather equable and 
pleasing than vivid and striking. The Day Estival was inserted 
by Dr Leyden in his collection entitled Scottish Descriptive Poems, 



LOGIE. 227 

with some illustrations of Scottish literary antiquities. Edinburgh, 
1809^ 8vo. It may likewise be found in Mr Campbell's Speci« 
mens of the British Poets, Vol. ii. p. 238. Hume appears to 
have maintained an exemplary character as a clergyman. In Row's 
MS. History of the Church of Scotland, he is enumerated among 
^ those godlie and faithful! servants," whom the author had him- 
self known, and who had '' witnessed against the hierarchy of 
prelates in this kirk." 

But the name that reflects the highest honour on this parish as 
the place of his birth, is that of General Sir Ralph Abercrombyi 
the hero of Aboukir, who was born at the family seat, at Mens- 
trie^ in 1734. His baptism is registered in the parish record, 
bearing date October 26, ] 734. Of one whose fame is so widely 
spread, it^nrould be idle to speak here. He is numbered among 
the best and bravest of Britain's many good and brave, and his 
memorial is the history of his country. 

The principal resident landed proprietors are, Lord Abercrom- 
by, and Thomas Buchanan, Esq. of Powis. 

Parochial Register. — Tljere has been no register of deaths or 
burials kept in this parish, except in the years 176] and 1763. 
Baptisms have been recorded on application (which, however, has 
been too much neglected,) since February 12, 1688 ; and the record 
of proclamation of banns opens on January 17 of the same year* 
The session .records have been regularly kept since 15th August 
1688. 

Antiquitieiy 8fc. — These may be briefly enumerated, viz. two of 
those large upright stones, to be found in various parts of Scot- 
land, intended, probably, to commemorate some battle or event 
long since forgotten. They -are situated in Airthrey Park, about 
quarter of a mile distant the one from the other. One is about 
10 J feet in height, (of which upwards of 2^ feet are under ground,) 
and 8i feet in girth. The other is 9 feet 4 inches high above 
ground, and 14 feet 9 inches in girth. 

2d. The remains of a Pictish fort on Castle Law, one of the 
Ochils ; or rather the tradition of such a fort, for the traces of its 
existence are hardly distinguishable. 

ScL A Roman ford and causeway across the Forth at Manor. 

4tJu Above fifty years ago there was found a number of spear- 
heads under some stones at Abbey Craig. They were composed 
of a kind of bell metal, or brass, and it was concluded they were 
of Danish manufacture. One of these, however, at present in the 



228 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

possession of Lord Abercromby, is so beautifully and tastefully 
constructed, and unites so nauch elegance of shape with strength 
and lightness, as to suggest the idea that it must be either Rod- 
man or Grecian. 

Some years ago, when a part of the Roman causeway already 
alluded to was broken up, a singular old horse-shoe was found ; 
and in various places along the front of the Ochils sepulchral urns 
with bones have been dug up ; also stone and bronze battle-axes. 

There is a traditional report, that the last coinage of Scotch 
bawbees was of the copper from Airthrey mines. 

III. — Population. 

In 1831, the population was estimated at 1943. This, however, 
does not include the village of Abbey and its district, comprehend- 
ing a population of 216. The Abbey district is at pvtsent con- 
sidered part of Stirling parish ; but there is reason to believe on 
very insufficient grounds ; and there is an action pending or pre« 
paring with the view of recovering it to the parish of Logie. 
Though the writer considers it an integral part of this parish, he 
has omitted taking any notice of it in the present account, as it 
will probably be included in the account of the parish of Stir- 
ling. 

Exclusive of this district, the number of the population residing 
in villages is 1242, and the remaining 700 in the country. 

It would be difficult to fix the average of births, as many pa- 
rents make no application to have the names of their children re- 
gistered. The yearly average of those registered for the last seven 
years is 12. There is no register of deaths kept in the parish. 
The average number of marriages is 18. 

Number of families of independent fortune residing in the pa- 
rish, 2. Number of proprietors of land, 28, nearly all of whom 
draw upwards of L. 50 .a year from their property. Number of in- 
sane sent from the parish to the Glasgow Lunatic Asylum, 3 ; 
fatuous, 2. 

Character of the People^ Sfc. — The people are in general cleanly 
in their habits, especially in those villages which are frequented by 
strangers in summer. On the whole, they are decidedly an in- 
dustrious, moral, and church-going population ; generally comfort- 
able, and, it is hoped it may be added, contented. 

The people are not addicted to poaching. Formerly there 
were one or two stills among the Ochil Hills ; and the village of 
Craigraill was notorious as the haunt of smugglers, but since 



LOGIE. 229 

the duiy od spirits has been lowered, smuggling in all its branches 
has disappeared. 

IV, — Industry. 
Agriculture* — 

Number of acres, Scotch measure, in cultivation, (of which about 9000 are carse, and 

1000 dryfield,) about .... 4000 

In pasture, about .... 5000 

Under vood, about ..... 1000 

The land kept continually in pasture is confined to the hill 
ground. Part of this was at one time in cultivation ; but it was 
found that it could not be cultivated to advantage, owing to the 
climate and the expense of management. 

The wood in this parish is chiefly planted. It consists of fir, 
larch, oak, ash, elm, plane, beech, &c. On the whole, the ma- 
nagement, with regard to thinning, &c. is good. The neighbour- 
ing country is supplied with wood for farm-buildings, palings, and 
oiheragricultural purposes, from the Airthrey plantations, by means 
of a saw-mill erected on the property. 

Bent ofLMud. — The average rent of arable land in the parish 
may be estimated about L. 2, 10s. per acre. Rents in the Kerse 
are generally payable in grain, converted into money, according to 
the fiars' prices, 2^ bolls wheat per acre being about the average. 
The average rent of grazing on the low ground for a cow or ox 
probably from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, and for a sheep on the high 
lands, about 4s. 6d. 

Rate ofWages^ ^c. — The rate of wages for labourers is 10s. 
per week, summer and winter ; masons and carpenters, 2s. 6d. per 
day. 

Live-Stock. — The common breeds of sheep in this parish are 
the black-faced and the Cheviot. The wool of the former has 
been much improved by crossing with the Leicestershire breed. 
The Cheviots have been lately introduced, and are likely to prove 
advantageous. Considerable attention has been paid to the breed 
of milk cows. They are principally Ayrshire. The breed of 
draught horses has also been carefully attended to. 

Leases, — The duration of leases is generally nineteen years, 
which is commonly considered favourable to the occupier. The 
ferm-buildings are, in general, in pretty good condition. Wedge- 
draining is almost universal in the Kerse farms, and is of the very 
greatest benefit. 

Husbandry. — The system of husbandry jnusued in the Kerse 
is a six years' rotation, viz. fallow, wheat, beans, barley, hay, and 



230 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

oats* Potatoes and turnips are not much cultivated in the Ker»ey 
but are raised in considerable quantities on the dryfield part of 
the parish. 

Produce, — The following may be considered a pretty fair calcu- 
lation of the produce of the Kerse : 

500 acres in wheat, at 4 quarters per acre, and averaging L. S. lis. lOd. p«r 

quarter, ... L. 5188 S 8 

500 acres in bcan«t at 4 quarters per acre, and averaging at LAi lis. 

7d. per quarter, .... 8156 6 8 
500 acres in barley, at 5| quarters per acre, and averaging L.!, lis. lOd. 

per quarter, .... 4377 1 8 

500 acres in oats, at 5f quarters per acre, averaging L.], Is. 5d. per 

quarter, . 2944 15 10 

£00 acres in hay, at 20O stones of 22 lbs. per acre, averaging L.3 per 

100 stones, ..... dOOO 

100 acres in potatoes, at 40 bolls per acre, averaging 5s. per boll, 1000 6 

400 acres in fallow. 



SOOO acres. Gross produce, L. 19,668 10 10 

The dryfield, supposed to extend to about lOOQ acres, the one- 
half of which is pasture, as follows ; — 

500 acres in pasture, say ; L.250 O 

125 acres in oats, at 4 quarters per acre, averaging L. 1, Os. lid* per ^ 

quarter, .... 522 18 4 

63 acres in potatoes, at 35 bolls per acre, averaging 5s. per boll, 551 5 

62 acres in turnip, at L. 6 per acre, . . 872 

125 acres in barley, at 8^ quarter;^ per acre, averaging L.l, 58. 4d. per 

quarter, .... 554 S 4 

125 acres in buy, at 120 stones, at 6d. per stone, . 875 

1000 acres. Gross produce, L.2625 6 8 

The hill-ground, always in pasture, extends to about 5000 acres, 
grazing about 4000 sheep, which, reckoned at 4s. per sheep, gives 
the gross produco of this part of the parish at L.800. According 
to this calculation, the gross produce of the land in pasture, or in 
cultivation, amounts to L.23,088, 17s. 6d. which may probably be 
considered a pretty near approximation to the truth. 

Manufactures, — There is a woollen manufactory in the village 
of Menstrie, employing about fifty hands ) a distillery at Dolls, 
near Menstrie ; a paper-manufactory near Bridge of Allan ; and 
a spinning-mill lately established in the same neighbourhood. All 
appear to be under good management; and I am not aware that 
any of them are injurious to the morals or health of the people. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market'Tovm. — There is no market-town in this parish. The 
nearest is Stirling, which adjoins the southern boundary of the 
parish, and AHoa, about three miles from its eastern extremity. 

Villages. — There are five villages in the parish of Logie, be- 
sides smaller hamlets* Menstrie, the largest, contains near 500 



LOOIE. 231 

iolkabitftDtB. It 18 a flourisbiog village, with a well atteoded school, 
and an active woollen manufactory. Blair Logie, fkmous for the 
valubrity of its climate and goat-whey, is a beautiful clean village, 
at the rocky base of the Ochils, commanded by the Old Place, 
or Castle of Blair Logie, now the residence of a respectable hill 
farmer. It contains little more than 100 inhabitants. Craigmill 
Is a small village at the southern base of the Abbey Craig, for*, 
merly celebrated for the smuggling propensities of its inhabitants ; 
but since the duty on spirits was lowered, it has been deprived of 
this branch of trade. Population about 90. Causcwayhead, 
terminates the Long Causeway of Stirling, population about 200. 
Bridge of Allan, a flourishing village on the banks of the Allan, 
is now much resorted to on account of its proximity to the Airthrey 
mineral springs, population near 200. 

Means of Communication. — There are four turnpike roads in 
this parish, which meet in one point at the village of Causeway- 
head, viz. the Crieff, Alloa, Dollar, and Stirling roads. Their 
joint extent amounts to about eleven or twelve miles. The roads 
are in indifferent repair, especially the Crieff road, which is always 
in bad order, and rendered impassable by tolls. There are no 
fewer than seven turnpike gates and check-bars in the parish, all 
'Within about two miles of the manse. 

Stirling is the post-town from whence letters are conveyed to 
the different parts of the parish by letter-carriers on fool. Two 
public coaches, besides the mail from Perth to Glasgow, pass 
through the parish ; also an omnibus from Stirling to Alloa, and 
during summer an omnibus plies regularly several times a day be- 
tween Bridge of Allan and Stirling. * 

A very elegant bridge has lately been thrown over the Forth 
at Stirling, the old bridge having been deemed unsafe. The 
bridge over the Allan is one of those narrow, old-fashioned, dan- 
gerous bridges so common in this part of the country, which one 
would hardly expect to find at the present day on a great public 
road, such as that between Perth, Stirling, and Glasgow. The 
fences are chiefly thorn hedges, in good condition. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church could not be more 
conveniently situated, being nearly in the very centre of the pa- 
rish. It is thus placed, however, at the distance of two miles and 
upwards from the two most populous villages, Menstrie, and Bridge 
of Allan, which are situated, the one at the eastern, and the other 

* Tbe fteiuD-boAts which ply betw(^en Stirling and Newhaven aflEbrd cheap and 
expeditious communication to all the country near the Forth. 



232 STIRLINOSHIIIE. 

at the western extremity of the parish. The church was built id 
1805. It is a plain, unpretending structure, but neat and com* 
modious. Its situation is considered peculiarly romantic and 
beautiful ; and that of the old church (now an interesting ruin) 
still more so. It is in thorough repair ; but formerly was cold io 
winter, — a defect which has lately been remedied by the erection 
of a stove for heated air. It is seated for 644 people, but can 
accommodate a much larger number. There are no free sittings 
except those set apart for the poor in No. 16. Neither are there 
any sittings let The manse was built about 180tX It was a 
small, and by no means a comfortable house, with offices in a very 
miserable condition, when the present incumbent came into pos- 
session of the living in 1832. At that time it received a consi- 
derable addition ; and new offices were built at the joint expense 
of the heritors and the present incumbent. The glebe, indepen- 
dent of garden, consists of about six acres of excellent land, which 
was let by the present incumbent at L. 4 per acre. The stipend 
consists of 17 chalders, half in meal and half in barley, payable 
according to the fiars of the three different counties in which the 
parish is situated. Converted into money, the stipend of late 
years has never exceeded L.2d0, except the two last years, when, 
owing to the high prices, it considerably exceeded that sum. 
There is no place of worship, besides the parish church, connected 
with the Established Church in the parish. The only Dissenting- 
chapel is at Blair Logie, and belongs to the Relief body. Th^ 
minister, I understand, is paid by the seat rents, and by the col* 
lection at the church doors. 

From the lists lately completed for the General Assembly '$ 
Church Extension Committee, it appears that there are 244 fa- 
milies in the habit of regularly attending the Established Church, 
comprehending 1086 individuals of all ages, and 163 families whc^ 
attend the Relief place of worship at Blair Logie, and the differ^ 
ent Dissenting meeting-houses in the neighbouring towns, com- 
prehending 706 individuals. The average number of communis 
cants at each administration of the Sacrament of the Lord's Sup- 
per in the parish church is about 340. * 

Education. — There are four schools in the parish, viz. the pa- 
rochial school, and three others which are supported by the school 
fees. The school at Menstrie is also partly maintained by an an- 
nual, allowance from Lord Abercromby. The usual branches of 

. * C'oDbidcring the great distance of llic most poi'uloub vill.igcs fi oin the church, 
the attendance at divine service in ietuarkubly good. 



LOG IE. 233 

dacation are taught in all the schools, and Latin and Greek iu 
he parochial school. The salary of the parochial teacher amounts 
o L. 30, and the school-fees average about L. 38 per annum. 
The school-house is situated about the centre of the parish, in 
he neighbourhood of the church, and is a neat and tasteful build- 
ng in the cottage style. The general expense of education varies 
iccording to the different branches taught, from 2s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. 
)er quarter, — the fees for English alone being 2s. 6d. ; when 
¥ritiDg, arithmetic, &c. are added, 4s. 6d. ; Latin, 5s. ; book- 
ceeping, 78. 6d. A small sum is allowed by the heritors and 
urk-session to the parochial teacher for instructing the children 
rf the poor.* 

The people in general are perfectly alive to the importance of 
education, and even the poorest often show a great anxiety to 
procure it for the children. Children are sent to school from the 
most remote comers of the parish, though the distance, especially 
during winter, must render it very inconvenient. There are pro- 
bably none above six years of age, who have not been taught to 
read or write. 

Library. — There is a parochial library, containing a few good 
books, at Blair Logic, and a small village library has lately been 
established at Bridge of Allan. 

Savings Bank, — There is a Savings Bank in the parish, in 
which investments are made chiefly or entirely by the working- 
classes. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
on the poor roll is about 17 or 18. The usual allowance varies 
Trom 4s. to 8s. per month. The amount of the collections at the 
church-door is from L. 50 to L. 60 per aimum, which is sufficient 
?br the support of the regular poor. Other parochial expenses, 
ooard of lunatics in the Glasgow Asylum, &c. have hitherto 
iDeen defrayed by drawing very unwisely on the principle of a small 
$um lodged in the Bank of Scotland, and now reduced to L. 100. 
There is also a bequest of L. 18 by the late Sir Robert Aber- 
cromby, distributed amongst the poor on the roll at the beginning 
of every year. 

ApHl 1841. 

• An infant and girl's school has bccM) lately cstablishetl at Causcwayhcad, by the 
llonminibte Mrs Abercroniby, and promises to be of the very greatest benefit to the 
neighbourhood. 



PARISH OF CAMPSIE. 

PRBSBYTBRY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. ROBERT LEE, MINISTER. 




L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Whether the word Campsie signifies in Gaelii 

crooked strath, as Mr Lapslie asserts, or, whether as Dr M*] 

thinks, it means a church in the bosom of a hill, must be lefl 

the judgment of those who are skilled in Celtic etymologies. 

former definition is certainly descriptive of the parish ; and as r" ^^ 

name was given to it before any church appears to have exist -^^» 

it is perhaps the more probable of the two. 

Extent and Boundaries. — Previous to the year 1049, Carajs^:::^^^^^ 
extended 11 miles from east to west, from the Garrel Glen ^ 

Craig Maddie Muir. The southern boundary was the River K - ^'' 
vin, flowing westward through a morass impassable in wint^^**' 
and the western limit was a line running across the country {rc^^^ 
that lofty hill in the north-western extremity of the parish, caff ^" 
the Earl's Seat, to Cadder House. The northern boundary 
tended, as it still does, from the Earl's Seat, nearly due east, abc7 
three miles; after which, it follows the course of the Carron Wat^*"*^ 
The greater part of the Campsie Fells is thus included witl 
this parish, though the Mickle Bin^ the highest of the range, >' 
not. Campsie was thus, in former times, a district very row 
isolated, and the people in consequence are said to have beei 
distinguished by many peculiarities. What these were, I have 
not been able to learn distinctly. They were probably old cus- 
toms, which retained their hold longer here than in places les$ 
secluded from the world. 

In 1649, the parish was reduced to its present dimensions by 
the annexation of its eastern extremity to Kilsyth, and of its 
southern extremity to Baldernock, then first erected into a sepa* 
rate parish. The length of Campsie is about 7 miles, and its 
breadth about 6. It is bounded by the parish of Fititry on the 



CAMP8IB. 235 

orth ; by Baldernock and Strathblane on the west ; by Cadder 
Dd Kirkintilloch on the south ; and on the east by Kilsyth, 
^ampsie consists of two hills, namely, the Fells on the North and 
le South Brae, and of the strath lying between them, and of 
hich the general direction is east and west. 

Topographical Appearances. — In the western extremity of the 
arish, where it joins Strathblane, this strath does not exceed 
alf a mile in width, but it gradually unfolds itself in its course 
astwards, till it expands into the open country on the south 
nd south-east. The surface is so undulating, that, with the 
xception of that across the Haugh of the Kelvin, near Kir- 
intilloch, I do not think 200 yards together of level road can be 
ound in the parish. The South Brae is about 700 feet, and the 
^'ells are said to be, at the highest point of the range, 1500 feet 
bove the level of the sea« These last mentioned hills, shootiug 
loldly up from the valley, like a prodigious rampart, present at 
11 times a striking and imposing appearance, especially when clad 
Q snow, and during rains in summer, when their summits are 
enveloped in clouds, and the white streaks of foam, marking the 
rack of those numerous water-courses that pour down their sides^ 
ontrast finely with the deep rich verdure with which the Fells 
re then clothed to their tops. 

Glens. — The Campsie Glens are celebrated for their beauty, and 
ttract great numbers of visitors during the summer months. They 
re deep gorges cut down in the south face of the Fells, by the long- 
ODtinued action of water, aided, perhaps, by other causes, through 
be solid rock, fragments of which, some of them of enormous di- 
nensions, are strewn along the bed of the torrent. The rocky 
ud precipitous sides of the glens, along which terraces have been 
ut by the proprietors for the accommodation of visitors, are or- 
lamented with an abundance of wood, as well as a considerable 
ariety of ferns, lichens, and mosses, and with wild flowers innu- 
nerable. That which is most frequented, and which alone 
itrangers commonly visit, is the Kirkton Glen, so called from its 
>roximity to the situation of the Old Kirk. The Finglen, a mile 
,0 the westward, though in some respects less striking than the 
)ther, has a larger volume of water, and two very beautiful wa- 
:erfalls, and is, in the opinion of many persons, on the whole, not 
inferior to its more popular neighbour. These glens, I am sorry 
;o add, prove the occasion of a considerable evil ; for, on Sundays, 
iuring the whole summer, great numbers of persons resort to the 
Dlachan of Campsie, from all parts of the surrounding country. 




236 STIRLINGSHIUE. 

to visit the glens, so that the quiet and decency of a' counlj-y Sab- 
bath are here destroyed during half the year. 

Hydrography. — The Glazert, which runs through a consider- 
able part of this parish, and which, together with the abundance 
of coal found here, has converted this into a manufiacluring dis- 
trict, empties itself into the Kelvin, opposite the town of Kirkin* 
tilloch, and is formed by the junction of three bums,-^the Pu', 
a languid streamlet which skirts the base of the South Brae ; the 
Finglen Burn, which crosses the valley at the west end of the 
village of Haughead ; and the Kirkton Burn, which crosses it a 
the eastern extremity of the same village. These three unii 
their waters near the lodge, at the entrance to Lennox Castle^ 
Besides those now mentioned, no less than sixteen burns are sai 
to empty themselves into the Glazert. 

Climate and Diseases. — It is to be regretted that no exact 
servations have yet been made, which might enable us to detect er- 
mine exactly the comparative meteorological character of this di^s ^s- 
trict. Compared with the surrounding country, however, the cl-fl^^li- 
mate is evidently more moist, and also both colder in winter 
hotter in summer. These differences are easily accounted fo 
by reference to the position of the locality, situated between t 
Frith of Clyde on the south-west, and the Frith of Forth on 
north-east, and lying immediately under lofty hills, which att 
the clouds ascending along both those arms of the sea. Tl 
comparative coldness of this parish in winter arises not only froK=30/n 
its proximity to the depositories of snow on the summits of tP ^^e 
hills, but also from the contraction towards the west of the stral^^^i 
through which the winds from the eastern quarter rush as throu^^^h 
a funnel. The temperature in summer is greatly heightened by 
reflection from the Fells, which lie nearly at right angles to t '^* 
rays of the sun at noon, and present an almost unbroken surfac::^^^^' 
bending gradually towards the south at both extremities, so as ^^ 
concentrate the rays upon the valley below. 

The ill ^effects of a damp climate are in part counteracted 
the general dryness of the soil. Still, I do not think Camp 
can be pronounced a remarkably healthy locality, at least in t 
valley. Fevers and inflammations prevail to a great extent, 
well as pulmonary diseases. In the year 1836, there were I 
funerals, the largest number, I believe, which ever has taken plac^ 
in one year. Besides climate, other causes are to be adverted t <^ 
as operating unfavourably on the sanatory condition of the popU 
lation. 1. The cottage;* are almo>t, without exception, damj'i 





CAMPSIE. 23t 

eing generally ill built, and generally without drainage. 2. 
Though in this respect there is a considerable improvement, still 
He people generally are too little impressed with the importance 
f cleanliness in their habitations, and of ventilation, as means 
f preserving health. 3. In the villages, especially in LennoK- 
>wn, where the inhabitants have increased in a far greater pro- 
ortion than the houses, the people are too much crowded in their 
[wellings The Irish labourers have imported their custom of 
^^>^> — SIS many persons occupying a room at night as can find 
pace to lie in it, — a practice equally inimical to health and to 
ecency. 4. Though none of the manufactures in this place 
ppear decidedly injurious to health, as compared with many 
tbers, yet there are many circumstances necessarily involved in 
fianuikcturing employments, which cannot but prove, on the whole, 
mfavourable to health ; such as the practice of putting children 
9 work at an early age ; labouring in heated rooms ; attedding 
uniaces; working among cold water; breathing a hot atmosphere 
n which a great quantity of water vapour and other gases are sus- 
pended ; mining, &c Though the masters of works in this pa- 
ish manifest, almost universally, a very humane regard to the 
lealth and comfort of their work-people, those causes must, on 
he whole, operate unfavourably on their health and longevity. 

On the other hand, it is proper to remember, that persons em- 
loyed in manufactures are generally not exposed to cold and wet, 
lie great springs of disease among the agricultural population. 
I. The inhabitants of Campsie are, for the most part, better emp- 
loyed and better paid than in most surrounding parishes. 8. 
The parochial allowances, though probably not so large as the 
anatory and moral welfare of the population demand, are liberal, 
lompared with those of many other parishes. 4. A large num- 
ber of landed proprietors and manufacturing gentlemen are resi- 
lent in the parish, most of whom are wealthy and liberal ; so that 
t is almost impossible that much of that slow starvation should 
36 found here, which is complained of in many other parts of the 
M>untry. 5. Lastly, intemperance, the great mother of disease, 
is well as crime, is apparently diminished to a considerable ex- 
tent, partly through the efforts of abstinence societies. 

Zoology. — The advancement of civilization in this part of the 
country is marked very distinctly by the changes that have taken 
place in the animals inhabiting it. Extensive plantations have been 
formed, especially around Woodhead, and a vast variety of birds 
bave in consequence taken up their habitation here, which, forty 



238 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

years ago, could find neither food nor shelter; wbile the larger In 
predatory tribes have either disappeared, or are seen at long inter* I »> 
vals. The huntsman and his hounds, that used formerly to be Id 
maintained by the tenantry for the defence of their live-stock | it; 
against the attacks of " beasts of the field and fowls of the air," 
have disappeared with the creatures against which they waged 
war. So lately as the latter half of the last century, the goldea 
eagle bred regularly in Campsie ; so did the gentil falcon; two 
species of the badger, three of the fox were natives. Badgers 
are still found occasionally; foxes are very numerous; otten are 
still seen, also polecats ; hedgehogs are plenty. A martin 
cat was taken in the Finglen some years ago. The true wild- 
cat is believed to be extirpated from this parish. There are a 
great many species of hawks, most of them natives, as also several 
falcons. The goshawk, buzzard, and kite, are common. JSagles 
are no longer observed ; neither is the red-legged crow ; and the 
hen-harrier but seldom. The lapwing breeds in great numbeta* 
as also the stonechat ; but both disappear during the wint*^^* 
I know few things more pleasant than on a summer evenings ^^ 
the solitude of the lofty moors, to hear the plover winding •^^^ 
mellow horn. The note is rich and beautiful, and is rende' 
doubly pleasant by the deep silence around, as if all nature w 
listening to the little trumpeter. Squirrels are now abundi 
They were first observed in this district about fifteen years a 
Roe-deer are now permanent residents with us, and red-deer 
said to have been seen crossing our moors. The jackdaw first mi 
its appearance here about 1808 or 1809. Pheasants, introdui 
some years later, are now spread over the country. The mistle ^ 
thrush now breeds in Campsie, so does the beautiful kingfish^ 
a pair of water-ouzels built their nest under the lower fall in 
Finglen in 1837. The dabchick and the baldcoot have .ilso 
cently been added to the inhabitants. The little golden-cn 
ed wren, and the redstart, have also been observed of late, toj 
ther with many new varieties of the duck ; among others, 
golden eyed diver. Almost all the tribes of smaller birds comi 
in Scotland are found here in abimdance. • 

Botany. — No district in the vicinity of Glasgow ranks very hi, 

• Mr Stirling, Craigbarnet, shot, in D.^cember 1838, two cross bills, the first seen 
this quarter. They are very beautiful oirds, and are preserved by this gentleman 
A very fine collection which he has made, and which contains not only all the bi 
inhabiting this district, but a great number of beautiful specimens of foreiirn o 
thologj. 




1 
i 




CAMPSIE. 239 

ret of botanical productions. Campsie glens furnish almost 
f good plants as any locality within ten miles of the city ; 
ae are found here which have not been described elsewhere 
leighbourhood. The following list contains the names of 
lants, which are more rarely found in Scotland. 

ca montana Geranium pyrenaicum Epilobium anguitifoUum 

». scutellata —^ nylvaticum 

uniflora Althiea officinalis Mosses. 

I pusillum Genista anglica Gynanostomum curriroa* 

nula latifolia Habenaria albida trum 

:um thapsuS' ..>>.^>,,...,, bifolia Weissiatenuirostrisf 

Mxliuni Bonus- ^.^ „ ^ ^ viridis , curvirostra 

ricus Gymnadenia conopsea* Anomodon viticulosum 

a squamaria Cares speirostachya Encalypta ciliata 

iatrinerris Polygonum bistorta Orthotricum Drummoodi 

villosum Vaccinium oxyococcos Dicranum squarrosum 

: padus (the cranberry. ) Tortula rigida 

line amara Pyrus aucuparia (in the *,„ tortuosa 

um alliaria greatest abundance. ) 

tim lucidum Rubus chamsmorus 

ralogy. — The minerals of which this district is principally 
ed are, \»ty trap; and 2e/, those of the coal formation, 
mge of hills which runs along the north side of the Strath, 
he Campsie Fells, consists chiefly of large tabular masses of 
9 divisions in which are frequently indicated by the springs 
r which issue from them, and which trace their course in 
irrows on the brow of the hill. The geological position 
iracter of these masses are found to vary considerably in 
t situations ; in some approaching near to a columnar form, 
n passing into other layers, having large amygdaloidal ca- 
lled with calc-spar, quartz, &c. The transition between 
no masses is sometimes marked by a soft, friable green- 
laving a marly appearance, from the quantity of mealy zeo- 

ealc-spar wKich it contains. Other layers are characte- 
y having a greater abundance of hornblende and felspar 
intermixed. These phenomena have been accounted for 
lifferent modifying circumstances under which the trap has 
oled. 
ted zeolite, prebnite, and compact gypsum are also fre- 

found in this secondary trap formation. Many sections 
►e seen in the parish (such as in the Clachan Glen, the 

Shield's Burn, &c.), of the immediate contact of the trap 
3 coal formation ; the latter sometimes dipping under the 

and at other times being upheaved by it into a vertical 

eh abundance as sometimes to scent the air. 

species, which was long supposed to grow exclusively in the glen of Camp- 

' proved to be a curious variety, or rather state of Tortula iortuosa. 



240 



STIRLINGSHIRE. 




position. Several trap dikes are found to intersect the coal m 
sures of this district, by which the coal is frequently thrown ou 
its position, relatively to the horizon, and sunk or elevated to 
extent of several yards from its original situation. One dik 
great extent thus intersecting the coal measures is to be see 
the bed of the Glazert, at Kincaid Printfield, in the eastern 
of the parish, and near to Kinkell, about a mile farther to the v 
From traces of this dike having been discovered in a line to 
cast, in the neighbouring parish of Kilsyth, and to the 
thoso of Kilpatrick and Renfrew, it is exceedingly probable 
it may be found to traverse the whole coal basin lying between 
Friths of Forth and Clyde, in a north-east and south-west di 
tion, and, therefore, intersecting the coal, which dips from narfcli- 
west to south-east, nearly at right angles. A very 6ne section o^a 
dike of compact felspar, about twenty feet in height and five feet in 
breadth, is to be seen in the Kirkton Glen, in the west end of tlie 
parish, elevating the strata of limestone, slate«clay, and ironston^y 
which bear upon the dike, and dip on either side of it at a con- 
siderable angle. The slate-clay, where in contact with the fel* 
spar, is consolidated into a hard splintery mass resembling jasp^*** 

The coal formation consists of the usual alternating rocks ^^ 
freestone, limestone, argillaceous ironstone, alumino&s clay-sl 
&c. with beds of fossil shells, such as usually occur in the iipp 
members of this series. 

From the unequal and undulating nature of the surface through*"' 
out the whole of this district, it may readily be supposed that tl*^ 
thickness of cover overlying the coal strata must vary considerate "3^ 
in different situations. 



The limestone in this district is wrought for agricultural 
building purposes, and is of the very finest quality, being aim* 
altogether a pure carbonate of lime, as will be seen by the foll^^*^ 
ing analysis of a portion of that stone, viz. — 



Carbonate of lime, 


93.00 


protoxide of iron, 


2.90 


magnesia. 


1.30 


Insoluble earthy matter. 


2.21 


Iron jiy rites, 


0.59 



100.00 



This limestone lies about two feet above the coal, and is tt^ 
feet ten inches in thickness. Another stratum is found at P-"^ 
inches under the coal. It is provincially called the white li 
<^tone. From its situation, it hitherto has not been wrought to 
extent ; but it also is of ver^ cKcelleut quality ; and from 



ne 
e- 

ny 

he 



CAMPSIE. 241 

y of siliceous matter it contaiDs, possesses peculiar proper- 
binding where exposed to the weather, as also of setting in 
^ under water. The following are its constituents in 100 

carbonate of lime, . 83.20 

protoxide of iron, 2.17 

Inioluble earthy matter, . 1 1.87 

Iron pyrites, . 0,13 

Carbonate of magnesia, moisture, &c. 2.63 

lOOOO 

and limestone are also wrought on the north side of tho 
but neither of them is of so good quality as are those on the 
ide. The coal there is almost wholly used for burning the 
ne, whereas that on the south is used chiefly by the public 
and for domestic purposes. 

nking a bore in search of coal in the strata of the Glazerf , 
le alum- works, in ISSO, at a depth of about thirteen fa- 
a spring of water was struck, which discharged about 120 
per minute at the aperture of the bore, for several months, 
wards abated nearly a third of this quantity, but continues 
discharge about 80 gallons per minute of pure water, at 
iperature of 48^ Fahrenheit. This artesian well now fur- 
i plentiful supply to the alum-works afterwards described. 

—Section of Coal Strata in a Pit put down on the summit 
of the Ridge, running along the south side of the Strath 
ampsie, at the height of 450 feet above the bed of tho 
r Glazert.* 



Surface earth and clay, 

Blaes, . • • • • 

Ironstone band, . . . . 

)lae8, ..... 

Zoane balck limestone, 

Blaes with four separate bands of ironstone 

imbedded together about 20 inches thick, 
Slaes, . . . • • 

Limestone (blue), containing 93 per cent. 

carbonate of lime. 
Schist or alum slate, 
^oaJ, • • • • 



Under this the following series is found 
cropping out to-day, on the slope of the 
ridge down to the level of the nver. 



Fathoms. Feet. Inchet. 



1 


2 





11 


1 . 











7 


3 


2 


2 


I 








1 








22 


2 








4 








2 








3 


8 


41 


5 


5 



ironstone bands. No 6, which are considered of good quality, have been 



242 



6TIRLINGSRIRE. 



FAtliomt. Fwt iBcki 



Brought forward, 41 

11. Argillaceous clay, • . 

12. White limestone containing a ^^ger propor- 

tion of silex than the blue or the upper 
series, . . . 

13. Kingle, a hard siliceous rock, . • 

14. Blaes, . . . .1 
15 Blue limestone, . . .0 

16. Fakes, . , . . 

17. Schist or alum slate, . . .0 

18. Parrot coal, ... 

19. Common coal, . . .0 

20. Fire-clay in two beds separated by a hard si- 

liceous band of 6 inches thick, . 1 

46 



5 




4 
4 

1 








6 
7 



6 

4 

10 

10 

9 

4 

10 



U 



No. 2. — Journal of Bore put down at Drummilhui Park (leTolof 
Glazert) between the Idth April and 19th October 1836.* 





Paths. 


Feet 


In. 




Paths. 


Pcct 


b. 


Surface earth, 


1 





7 


Ironstone,- 








S 


Freestone rock. 


1 





9 


Blaes, 








7 


Very hard band. 





1 





Coal, 








11 


Fire-clay, 





1 


H 


Fire clay. 





1 


«» 


Light fakes. 





1 


4 


Fakes, 


1 





H 


Hard white rock, 





4 


6 


Hard band. 








7 


Hard blue rock. 


1 


5 


8 


limestone. 








8i 


Fakes, 





1 


6 


Blaes, 





1 


7 


Firc'ciay, 








11 


Do. with stripes of 








Bastard limestone. 





3 


9 


fakes. 


! 


4 


"t 


Blaes with stripes 








Hard band. 








n 


of &kes. 


1 


4 


6 


Blue fakes, 





1 




— f 


Blue blaes. 





1 


H 


Blaes, 





1 


11 



wrought to some extent, but the distance at which they are situated from blsrtfii^ 
naces creates a heavy expense for carriage, and tlie coal of this district is not luiishK 
for smelting ihe ores. I'he black-band ironstone has not been found in thisdistrK^ 
to which the above section belongs ; but it is found to exist, and has been partiaHj 
wrought on the south side of the ridge, and in the neighbouring parish of Baldernoci^ 
Its thickness varies from 12 to 18 inches, and is situated immediately above the co**» 
forming part of the usual thickness of the coal stratum. 

* The terms employed in the above register are for the most part provinciali ^^ 
we believe they are pretty generally understood by persons conversant in ini'^*^|£ 
operations. It was hoped, as formerly stated, that by putting down a bore in ^^^ 
lower ground of the strath, the finer coal measures, lying to the south and east, nii^^ 
have been found underlying those of this district. But from the unfavourable ^^ 
pearance presented at the termination of the above bore, it was appr^ended t*^ 
these must leRset or crop out before reaching this distance. This trial is so far sati'^'^ «j 



tory, that it resolves all conjectures as to the obtaining of coal at any depth, which ^ _ 
allotv of its coming into competition in point of expense of working, with the ^^%^ 
e iA\y obtuined coal of the higher levels of the district. Regarding the latter it m^T ^\^ 
stated in conclusion, that, though a great part of it has been wrought out, partieu^^ ^\| 
within the last thirty years, very large fields of it still remain, especially In ihes^^'^f^ 
side of the valley, and ample supplies for many years to come are likely to be found'* 
even the increasing consumption of the parish. H itherto, as a matter of economy, t^ 
portions of the coal.ficld which lie in the higher elevations, have been wrought S 
to obtain day levels for draining off the water at the least expense into the ri* 
and, in very few instances, has it been found necessary to employ engines (or 
purpose. 1 ti following the dip of the coul, however, to the south-east it will, no doi 
be found necessary to adopt this mo<le of draining the water, where the bed of 
coal falls below the level of tbc mer, ai\d 0^*^ \«n«^>a blt^ \«tv^QT«\ vavYx«K.UciLble. 



CAMPSIE. 



243 



Fatbf. Feet. 



"tone^ 




white rock, 
marble band, 
^day, 
blaesy 











1 











1 



8 









2 

1 










1 

2 



1 

5 

2 

3 

2 



1 

1 

2 

2 

1 

1 

4 

1 

1 



II.- 



In. Fatht. Feet. la. 

3 Light blaes, . 13^ 

4t Blaes with stripes of 

2 white fakes, 16 

m Very hard band, 1 74 

10} Fakes, . 6 

10| Blaes, .1 

5 Do. with stripes of 

104 &kes, 9 

6^ Rock, • 9 

5| Limestone, .018 

7 Very white rock, 15 

7 Light fakes, .015 

9^ Hard band, .004 

9 Light fakes, . 9( 

0^ Very hard band, 1 4| 

5 Hard rock, .13 5 
Light fakes, .016 

6 Light hard rock, 3 9| 
llj _ _ - 

5^ 32 3 5 



2^ 

Civil History. 
liquifies. — At the foot of the Campsie Fells are the traces of 
Caledonian forts, the larger about 100, the smaller about 20 
in diameter. They are situated about two miles from the 
an wall, which crosses the country a little beyond the south-east 
emity of this parish. A few Roman urns, and a number of 
lish coins, of the ages of Elizabeth, James I., and Charles I., 
e been dug up at Birdstone. The latter are conjectured to 
« been hid by the inhabitants who were forced to flee from 
r houses, by the depredations of Montrose's troops, at the pe- 
of the battle of Kilsyth. 
. J3uilding8. — The old church at the Clachun had no architec- 
^^al beauty, though the situation at the opening of the Kirkton 
^^Aen is very fine. The belfry still stands; and the old bell, 
^^hicb was deposed for several years, has lately been reinstalled 
^D its ancient honours, and is again duly rung at funerals, and on 
Sunday evenings, when the neighbourhood assembles in the school- 
Qouse for divine service. 

The present parish church, which was erected in 1829, is si- 
tuate at Lennoxtown. The style is Gothic, and the building is 
handsome and largo, being capable of accommodating 1600 per- 
sons. The interior is fitted up in a very commodious and supe« 
rior manner. Indeed, everything connected with the church re- 
flects credit on the liberality of the heritors, who expended on it 
nearly L. 8000, including the cost of ground, levelling, fencing, 
&C. In the tower, at the west endof the church, is a clock, pre* 




244 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

sented by the late Miss Lennox of Woodhead, and a very sonoro — ^s 
bell. A very magnificent set of communion vessels was presente^^^d, 
at the opening of the new church, by James Denistoun, Es» ws^ 
merchant, Glasgow, a native of this parish, and a man truly il- 

lustrious, if generosity entitles any one to be so esteemed. ^^KHii 
liberalities were almost innumerable, and were not more distsvnia- 
guished for their magnificence, than for the judgment and delict sacy 
with which they were conferred. 

By far the noblest building in this parish, or indeed in this 
of the country, is Lennox Castle, the seat of John L. Kin< 
Lennox, Esq., who is proprietor of nearly half the land in the pa- 
rish. This magnificent mansion, which is situated on the b roir 
of the South Brao, near the position of the old house of W<^^»od« 
head, was commenced in 1837, and is now (May 1841), 'j ust 
finished. The character of this building, which is in the hol^cJest 
style of the old Norman architecture, from a design by Mr Drmr/(i 
Hamilton of Glasgow, harmonizes well with its lofty and pic;^u- 
rcsque situation, nearly 500 feet above the level of the ^dpmiog 
valley, and with the bold and striking scenery around. Nearly 
op|K>site Lennox Castle, on the other side of the valley, stanJ^ 
in a snug sheltered situation, the House of Craigbarnet, more ce^^^ 
lebrated for its hospitality than for its architectural pretensions 
and a mile further eastwards, in a very beautiful situation, at tin 
embouchure of the Kirkton Glen, is the House of Banclerochc, 
or Kirkton, as it was till lately called. The other principal man- 
sion-houses in the parish are, Kincaid and Antermony, both tho 
property of Mr Lennox ; Glorat House, the situation of which 
is striking, though not very accessible ; and Anchinrcoch, at pre- 
sent occupied by the tenant on the farm. 

Historical Events. — If those times and places which are the 
best to read of are the worst to live in, the inhabitants of this pa- 
rish must be held to have been fortunate beyond the ordinary lot 
of mankind, there being almost no events connected with it which 
can be called historical ; and tho names of its past or present in- 
habitants, that are most known, or are likely to be long remem- 
bered without its bounds, are those of Mr Bell of Antermonv, tho 
traveller; Mr Charles Mackintosh of Campsie, the inventor of 
the celebrated waterproof clotBj^Wl^ich bears his name ; and Mr 
James Bell, the author of several important geographical works, 
who spent his last years in this parish, and a short account of 
iwhom will be found below, kindly furnished me by a member of 

4 



CAMPSIK. 215 

family in which Mr Bell spent his last years.* I may add 
I names of Mr Robert Dalglish, formerly Lord Provost of Glas- 
V, in the affairs of which city, especially of its charitable insti* 
ions, he took, during a long series of years, a deep and effective 
drest, and who has long been connected with Campsie ; and of 
r John M^Farlan, of Bancleroche, the early companion of Sir 
. Scott, and the author of numerous publications. 
Several of the clergymen of Campsie have enjoyed considerable 
ebrity or notoriety, as Lamberton, Beaton, and others, before 

Reformation, — and several since. 

3o lately as the year 1744, black-mail was paid by the farmers 
Campsie to Macgregor of Glengyle, who seems, from Lapslie's 
ount of him, to have had some of that honour which is said 
letimes to be found among thieves. The great Rebellion had 

happy effect of delivering the people from the need of such 
tectors. The powers of a feudal baron were exercised in this 
ish so lately as the year 1693, at which period the Marquis of 
syth hanged one of his servants for theft on the Gallowhill, in 

barony of Bencloick. 
The doctrines of the French Revolution were diff'used to a great 

Mr James Bell, the celebrated geogp^pher, was born at Jedburgh, 1769. In 
7, Mr Bell removed with his father to Glasgow, where, after receiving a liberal 
ration, he served an apprcnticesliip to the weaving business, and, in 1790, he 
menced business as a manufacturer of cotton goods. In the universal depression, 
), occasioned by the shock of the French Revolution, Mr Bell having a large 
k on hand, in common with many others, lost his all, and for a number of years, 
employed as a common warper in the warehouses of different manuikcturers. It 
been said, while Mr Bell occupied this situation, he was frequently more intent 
he metres of Horace, the delineations of Mela and Strabo, and the glowhig nar- 
res of Xenophon and Thucydides, than upon the porters and splits into which bis 
cts of bobbins were to be adjusted upon the warping-mill, in consequence of 
sb his chains, when they came into the hands of the workmen, were found to be 
tricably entangled. About the year 1806, Mr Bell relinquished this unconge- 
occupatiou, and betook himself to a more laborious mode of earning his subsist- 
», but one for which he was better qualified, viz. teaching the classics to young 
I attending the ITniversity. This he pursued for some years with diligence and 
ess, being at the same time himself a most indefatigable and arduous student, cs- 
ally in history, systematic theology, and above all, iu geography, which he pur« 
I with unwearied enthusiasm. Mr Bell made his first appearance as an author 
815, when he was engaged to improve the Glasgow Geography, a work in four 
imes. which had been well received by the public, and was now, by the labours 
ir Bell, extended to five volumes. It formed the basis of his pnncipal work. 
ie years after this, he again appeared as an author in conjunction with a young 
tleroan, (the late Mr John Bell of Glasgow,) in a small volume of Chinese geo« 
}hy and oriental philology. This work is now rare, but it is said to display a con* 
rable amount of talent. Mr Bell had long been subject to severe attacks of asth- 
These gradually assumed a more lUarming character, and compelled him to 
e Glasgow for a country residence. The place he selected for his retirement was 
;e»ton, Campsie. where he spent the last ten or twelve years of his life. VVhile 
esided at Lukeston, he published an elegant edition of Rollin's Ancient History^ 
rspersed with copious and interesting notes, liere he also published his princi- 
work, " A System of Popular and Scientific; Geography,*' in six volumes. He 
engaged in preparing for publication " A General Gaz.ntecr,** when death put a 
iod to his labours on the 3d of May 1B33, in the 64th year of his age. 



\ 



jr 



246 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

extent in Campsie, chiefly through means of Mr Muir, adyocate, 
who was afterwards tried and banished for sedition, and who bad 
many relatives in this part of the country. Mr Lapslie, then 
minister, thought it his duty to take steps in relation to this matter, 
which put him in an unfortunate position vyith respect to many of 
his parishioners, and led to many unpleasant consequences — among 
others, the burning of his manse; thus furnishing another proof, 
ho\v difficult it is for clergymen to step out of their own peculi 
province, without seriously endangering their respectability an 
usefulness. 

Old Families. — There are several very old families in this 
rish, the principal of which are the Lennoxes of Woodhead, t 
Kincaids of Kincaid, the Stirlings of Craigbarnet, the Stirlings 
Glorat, and the M'Farlans of Kirkton, who are derived, by t 
female line, from the same stock from which the Lennoxes 
Woodhead claim descent. AH these families, the Kincaids, Ler 
noxes, and Stirlings of Glorat and Stirlings of Craigbarnet, ha*^ 
possessed the same estates they now do during nearly four ce 
turies, some of them much longer.* M*Farlan of Kirkton, 
Bancleroche, a maternal ancestor of John M^Farlan, Esq. t1 
present proprietor, came into possession of that estate in 16 
Antermony was purchased by Captain John Lennox, a youngr"'^ 

* The Kincaids were in possession of Kincaid in 1280, as is proTed bj a char^^ 
eitant. In 1421, Duncan Earl of Levenax conveyed to his son, Donald, ancestor' 
the Woodhead family, the lands of Balcorrach, Balgrochyr, Bencloicb* Tbombtf J 
and others, in the parish of Campsie. The charter still exists. His son, John, wi 
served heir of his father in said lands in 1454, and seems to hare been also propHi 
tor of the estates of Kilmordining and Caillie. The estate of Bencloich was sold U 
Edmonstone of Duntreath in 1660, and was, by the present Sir Archibald Edmoo* 
stone, sold to Charles Macintosh, Esq. and William Macfarlan, Esq. in 1834. Glo- 
rat was a part of the Rarldom of Levenax, and Isabella Duchess of Albany, eldest 
daughter of the last Earl of the old line, was in possession of it, as appears from the ^ 

Exchequer Rolls in 1456. John Earl of Lennox, in the Darnley line, gave a grant ^ 

of the lands of Inchinnan, in Renfrewshire, " dclecto consanguinco suo Gulielmo Stir* '^ 

ling de Gloret et Margarets Houstoun sposs sus,**in 1525, which is the first trace I 
can find of the family ; but very probably Glorat was acquired by the Stirlings about 
1470, af^er the death of Isabella. In 1550, George Stirling of Glorat was Captain 
and Governor-in-chief of Dumbarton Castle. The arms and motto, " semper fideiis,** 
were granted to the family for their loyalty to their sovereigns, Charles L and II., 
and, in the year 1666, the family was honoured with the dignity of knight baronet. 
Both the Glorat family and the Stirlings of Craigbarnet are descend^ from the 
Stirlings of Calder or Cadder, whose name appears in the Ragman's Roll, 1279. 
John Slriveling or Stirling of Craigbernard ( Craigbarnet) is witness to a deed in 
1468. Kincaid, ** Laird of Kincaid of Stirlingshire, for his valiant service in recover* 
ing of the Castle of Edinburgh from the English, in the time of Edward I., was 
nuule constable of the said castle, and his posterity enjoyed that oflfice for a long pe» 
riod, carrying the castle in their armorial bearings in memory thereof to this day." 
'* There is an old broad sword belonging to a branch of the family, upon which are 
the arms, gukt on a fesse ermine^ between two mullets in-chief, or and a castle triple 
towered, in b«se argent^ with these words,-— 

** Wha will pursew, 1 will defend 
My life and honour to the cntl."— A'/>&(Y'* Heraldry. 




CAMP8IE. 247 

•on of the Woodboad family. The three families of Woodhead, 
Kincaid} and Antermony, are now all of them represented, as 
these estates are possessed by John L. Kincaid Lennox, Esq. the 
first in right of his mother, the second in right of his father, the 
third in right of his uncle. 

The claim of this family to the Lennox peerage has been 
brought down to her own time, by Margaret Lennox, late of 
Woodhead ; from which case, it appears that Askill, a powerful 
Northumbrian baron of the age of William the Conqueror, hav- 
ing found it necessary, with many other northern barons, to flee 
into Scotland, was kindly received by Malcolm III.; and his son, 
Alwyne, was, by Malcolm VI. created Earl of Lennox ; the name 
being derived from the river Leven, and the estate extending over 
Dumbartonshire, great part of Stirlingshire, and parts of the coun- 
ties of Perth and Renfrew. The earldom continued in this family 
down to the time of Earl Duncan, who, with the Duke of Albany 
lUid his two sons, was executed at Stirling, May 1425. After this, 
[sabella, his eldest daughter, enjoyed it many years, and she hav- 
ng died without issue on 1459, the earldom, without any for- 
^iiure having taken place, but by reason of the feudal incident of 
lOD-entry, fell into the hands of the sovereign as superior. 

Donald, son of Earl Duncan, by a second marriage, was the 
ancestor of the Lennoxes of Ballcorach. John, the sixth of Ball- 
sorach, came into possession of the lands of Woodhead about 1520. 

Parochial Registers. — These are very meagre. One volume 
conomencing 29th October 1689, Mr John Govan, moderator, 
records the proceedings of the kirk-session down to June 6, 1717. 
Another volume commences May 27, 1787, and is continued with 
{Treat irregularity till November 1810. Some few of the matters 
Tecorded in the older volume are not without interest The mi- 
nutes of the kirk-session are continued from the date last men- 
tioned to the present time. The register of baptisms extends from 
the year 1696 downwards; that of deaths appears not to have 
been kept previously to 1790. 

III. — Population. 
In the year 1783, the population of Campsie amounted to 16*27. 

If the registers of baptisms and marriages may be depended on, 

the number of the inhabitants must have diminished between the 

period of the Revolution and the above-mentioned year. Between 

A. D. 1783 and 1793, the population was augmented from 1627 

to 2517. This wonderful increase of inhabitants was occasioned 



248 8TIBLINGSH1KE. 

by the introduction at that time of the manufactures which since 
have been so much extended in this parish, both the Lennox Mill 
and the Kincaid Print6elds having been established during the 
ten years mentioned above. In 1831, the inhabitants of Campsie 
were 5109. In April 1836, the number had increased to 5658} 
and at present, I believe, they considerably exceed 6000. The 
majority of the people are employed in manufactures, in the vari- 
ous printfields, the alum-works, &c. and a considerable number in 
weaving. The increase of the population has arisen entirely from 
the extension of manufactures ; for here, as elsewhere, the agri« 
cultural portion of the people seems to have been more numerous 
150 years ago than they are now. The great majority of the in- 
habitants are collected in villages, especially in Lennoxtown, which 
itself contains nearly one-half of the whole population. 

The exact number of births annually cannot be ascertained. 
Those registered in the parish books, in the year 1836, amounted 
to 127. In 1840, they were only 99. The proclamations in order 
to marriage, in 1836, were 51. In 1840 they were 43. 

Character of the People, — The people of this parish, so far as 
I can observe, have little to distinguish them from persons simi- 
larly circumstanced elsewhere. The agricultural population, 
living, many of them, in elevated and secluded situations, retain 
perhaps, more of the primitive simplicity than in most other dis- 
tricts. The migratory habits of many of the calico-printers are 
highly unfavourable to t\ie formation of regular habits. It is right 
to add, that a great proportion of the manufacturing population 
manifest a very commendable love of knowledge, and mental im- 
provement, and zealously avail themselves of any opportunities of 
acquiring these within their reach. The great improvements in 
education also which have been effected in this |>ari8h, by the li** 
berality of the more wealthy inhabitants, cannot fail to work a de- 
cided amelioration in the course of a few years. Indeed, tokens of 
improvement are beginning to appear already. 

IV. — Industry. 
Landed Property and Agriculture. — A considerable part of the 
parish, it is understood, has never been surveyed by the land-mea- 
surer, so that the number of acres it contains cannot be accurate- 
ly stated. Mr Lapslie, in his excellent Account, written in 1793, 
supposes it to contain 15,000 Scotch acres, but, taking into calcu- 
lation the contents noted on the plans of some of the principal 
estates, and estimating the remainder, 1 3,500 acres are believed 



CAMPSIE. 2^9 

to be its utmost extent. Of this the hills or fells on the northern 
side of the strath occupy about 6000 ; about 400 are under plan- 
tation and natural wood ; about 50 in small lakes and ponds. The 
extent farmed as arable land may be about 6000 Scotch acres. 
The valued reiital, by the county cess-books, amounts to L. 6437, 
whereof the estates of Woodhead, Antermony, Kincaid, and others 
belonging to J. L. K. Lennox, Esq. comprise L. 2780 ; Glorat, 
Sir S. Stirling, Bart., L. 868 ; Bancleroche, J. M* Parian, Esq. 
L». 536 ; Craigbamet, A. G. Stirling, Esq. 420 ; part of the es- 
tate of Bencloich, formerly belonging to Sir. A. Edmondston, 
now to Charles Mackintosh, Esq. L. 333 ; remainder thereof, now 
belonging to William Macfaflane, Esq., L. 300 ; Auchinreoch, 
fonnerly l^longing to Mr Buchanan of Carbeth, now to Miss 
M^Innes, L. 402 ; Hayston, and part of Carleston, Thomas Reid, 
Eisq. Lfc 281. The remainder of the valuation attaches to various 
small properties, the highest of which is rated at L. 80. The real 
rental of the parish is not precisely ascertained. In a state 
made up by a committee of the inhabitants, in 1828^ with the view 
of adjusting an equitable contribution for the poor, the amount is 
about L. 15,000, of which fully more than half is charged to the 
principal heritor. All the heritors reside in the parish, excepting 
Sir S. Stirling, Mr Macfarlane of Bencloich, Miss M^Innes, and 
the holders of one or two very small possessions. The proprietors of 
Woodhead, Glorat, and Craigbarnet estates are owners of landed 
property likewise in other parishes. Mr Macintosh occupies An* 
termony mansion-house, of which he has a lease from Mr Lennox, 
and to which he has made large additions. 

SoiL — In few parishes or districts of equal extent is the soil 
found so various in quality and character. A track along the Kel* 
• vin, which, until about the beginning of the last century, had been 
a morass, is now rich haugh land under regular cultivation, and it 
would be still more valuable were it not liable to be overflowed, 
nofwithstanding its embankments, in times of very high floods. 
Small patches of it here and there are deep moss, but arable. 
From this low level the land rises in gentle hillocks, and at the 
bases of most of these are beds of gravel and sand, sometimes of 
great thickness. A considerable extent of light gravelly loam is 
found in the south-east quarter of the parish, and smaller tracks 
in the centre of the valley towards the west end and elsewhere. 
Mr Lapslie supposed the gravelly soil to have been " brought down 
from the hills in floods ;" but a theory involving more important 



250 STlRLlNGSiiiUE. 

causes and results than ordinary floods must be referred to 
accounting satisfactorily for these extensive and irregular deposi 
Nearer the base of the fells, the soil is generally a light clay oi 
tilly subsoil, both being much infested with boulder stones a 
fragments of sandstone and trap rocks, small and la'rge. The lo 
hill, on the south side of the valley, is chiefly clayey, and 
similar character, and the slopes betwixt it and the Kelvin 
light loam, gravelly, sandy, alluvial, and mossy. Excepting a1 
400 acres covered with heath, and about 200 with woods, the so 
hill is all arable. There is very little heath on the north h 
On the top of one of them, there are about 300 acres of deep 
productive moss. The rest of these hills, with very trifling ex 
tions, yield pasturage of first-rate quality, hardly surpassed, 
deed, by any hill pasture lands in Scotland. 

Leases^ Rent of Landy $*c. — The leases are generally for ui 
teen years, the entry being at Martinmas and Whitsunday, c 
the first year's rent payable at Martinmas and Whitsunday the 
after. On land fit for green cropping, the tenants are ususeB ij 
bound to the following rotation, viz. 1. crop oats ; 2. potatoes %kW^ 
turnips ; 3. barley, wheat, or oats ; 4. hay ; 5 and 6. pastus""*^ 
On the deep alluvial soils, and on the poor wet clay soils, a diff^ 
rent course is commonly pursued according to circumstances, 
in the one case, taking two white crops in succession, and sowirsg 
down, and in the other, breaking up the hay stubbles, &c. WU^t 
may be styled an ordinary sized farm on the best class of aral>l® 
land here,, contains about 120 Scotch acres ; a few possessions a-*^ 
greater, and many much less. The rent paid for such a farm " 
about L. 300. In one or two instances, L. 4 per acre are paid f^*^ 
some fields, in a very few others, L. 3, 15s.; but on the clay^J 
soils, L. 2, and down to L. 1, is the rent for tillage land. T***^® 
greatest amount of rent paid by any one tenant in the parish *■ 
L. 690, the next about L. 400. On a farm of the size and ki*'^ 
first described, viz. containing 120 acres, the live-stock may *^® 
about twenty milk cows, ten young cattle, and five or six worki«'i? 
horses, and one or two young horses. 

'J here will be about 25 acres in oats, produce worth, say L. 1 1 per acre, L. 275 



16 


do. 


3 


do. 


1 


do. 


10 


do. 


5 


do. 


20 


do. 


40 


do, 



potatoes, 


do. 


L.30 


do. 


480 


turnips. 


do. 


L.20 


do. 


S^ 


fitches. 


do. 




do. 


\^ 


wheatf 


do. 


L.12 


do. 


ViQ 


barlej. 


do. 


L 10 


do. 


50 


hay, 


do. 


L. 8 


do. 


leo 


pasture, 


do. 


I.. 2 


do. 


80 



120 L. 1235 



CAMP8IE. 251 

produce of an inferior farm of say 70 acres may be as fol- 

JK> aercs white crops at L. 8, . L. 160 

10 do. green do. L.20, 200 

20 do. hay at L 4, 80 

20 do. pasture at L. 1, lOs. 90 

70 L.470 

bis case, there may be six milk cows, three young beasts 
ree horses ; and the rent may be L. 110. 
bandry. — The district being in the neighbourhood of Glas- 
D active tenant will always lay his account with purchasing 
derable quantity of dung, in addition to what is produced 
farm, and in raising as much green crop, particularly pota* 
3 possible. Summer-fallowing is seldom practised, nor is 
Quch need of it, as nearly all the arable land in the parish 
\ made, by thorough draining, to carry green-crop profit- 
Lime is to be had prepared at sundry places in the parish, 
3 soil generally being of a ferruginous quality, it is often 
to act with good effect. It is necessary, however, to em* 
with discretion arid judgment. The best quality of dung 
re, as everywhere, produce the best crops; and it may with 
ruth be said, the best farmer is he who is the most liberal 
ise, the supply being almost unlimited. In our moist cli- 
\ie earlier kinds of oats are found to be the most suitable, 
and beans are rarely sown ; flax only in very small quan- 
ccasionally ; rye never. Carrots have sometimes been suc- 
ly tried in small patches of deep free soil. None of the ar« 
grasses, except rye-grass and red and white clover, have 
ttempted by the farmers ; nor have any of the other more 
mon of the vegetable products for soiling been cultivated, 
nds of turnips raised are the Aberdeen, or Dutch yellow, 
3 Swedish ; and only a small breadth is sown for the use of 
ry stock, as the ground suitable for growing them can be 
irofitably employed in potato cropping, than in turnips for 
ise. 

Dairy, — This is a branch of chief importance in the hus- 
of our district, as a ready and profitable market is found 
sgow for all its produce. Butter and butter-milk are the 
rms, it may be said, in which that produce appears in the 
. The Ayrshire breed of cows is carefully cultivated, and 
)r kinds nor mixed breeds are to be seen here. A very good 
1 yield in a year, say 200 pounds of butter, at is., = L. 10, 



252 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

and 1600 pinU of butter-milk at Id. = L.6, Ids. 4d. = L.16, ias.4d. 
First-rate cows occasionally yield more than the above. The 
produce of ordinary cows, with ordinary feeding, may be stated at 
about L.12. The wives and daughters of our farmers are very 
famous for their industry and skilful management of this depart- 
ment : and on Its success a great part of the rent depends. 

Hill Farms. — The cattle grazed on the Fells are almost all 
West Highlanders; the sheep generally the black-iaced breed 
from Tweeddale. On the largest grazing farm in the parish the 
usual number of live-stock is, 700 sheep, 100 Highland cattki 
12 Ayrshire milk-cows, and 1*2 young beasts of the same breed, 
and 12 horses, old and young. The extent of arable land in thu 
farm is 80 acres ; the pasturage has not been measured. On 
another grazing farm of inferior quality, containing 815 acres, 
whereof 28 are arable, the stock is usually 300 ewes and lambs, 
60 black cattle, 8 milk cows, 6 calves and queys, and 3 horses. 
In some seasons the stock is greater. The rent charged for gras* 
ing a cow is from L.2, 10s. to L.5, and a sheep from 7s. to 10s. 

£/orM«.— Tliere are some good draught horses of the Clydes- 
dale breed in the district, of from L.30 to L.40 value; but by far 
the greater number are of inferior mixed breeds, which sell at about 
L.20 to L.25 a head. 

Farm Buildings and Enclosures. — The class of tenantry in this 
district being what is styled working farmers, the size of the 
farms and the capital employed in them moderate, and the com- 
petition in consequence of the dense population and ready mar- 
kets considerable, extreme personal activity is indispensable, and 
the farmer is contented with moderate accommodation. The 
dwelling-houses commonly contain only the kitchen and two small 
rooms, each having fixed beds, and these often so placed as not to 
be easily kept free from damp. There are a few instances of a 
better and more comfortable description. 

The enclosures are chiefly thorn hedges, which thrive exceed- 
ingly well when duly cleaned, cut and preserved, but they are by 
no means well attended to and encouraged, except in a very few 
instances. Many of the " rickle dikes," which Mr Lapslie, in 1 793, 
censured as " totally incapable of keeping the soil warm," and as 
giving " the parish a cold and uncomfortable look," still remain, 
or at least others in their stead do. 

Rate of Wagesy Sfc. — 'I'hcse are the same as stilted in the ac- 
counts already published of other parishes near Glasgow. 



CAMPSIR. ^ 253 

Obstacles to Improvement. — The chief of these is the small 
amount of capital brought by the tenant into employment at his 
entry. His industry, and the chance of a succession of good sea- 
sonsy are almost all he has to depend upon. When, unfortunately, 
a series of unfavourable seasons overtakes him, he is sure to take 
to over-cropping, to redeem his immediate losses, unless the landv 
lord interferes. The consequence is alike Tnjurious to both. Men 
possessed of the capital, which it is desirable should be brought 
into a fiurming speculation on even a moderate scale, are ever ready 
in this great commercial and manufacturing district, to invest it in 
pursuits which promise a greater,* more rapid, and less uncertain 
return than agriculture. The importance of thorough draining, 
wherever the land is damp, begins to be understood ; but, unless 
the landlord finds it convenient to do the work at his own expense, 
it will proceed slowly, because the tenant cannot command funds, 
however willing, to sink money in draining, — aqd however satisfied 
that it could be most profitably so employed. Occasionally, at- 
tempts are made, and the work is for the same reason imperfectly 
executed. The landlord, seeing this, feels unwilling to give money 
to assist, believing that it would be expended in work that will not 
answer the purpose, or will last only a very few years. Time and 
observation will probably bring about better arrangements. If at 
the con^encement of their leases, the tenants of farms in thoso 
parts of the parish, which most need draining, had the means of 
both thorough-draining and trenching their lands, — the outlay, 
in every case, great as it would be, would still be amply repaid 
them in the course of their tacks. Subsoil ploughing and trench 
ploughing are impracticable in these lands, owing to the boulders 
and the extreme tenacity of the subsoil. Partly to this same want of 
disposable funds, and partly to the want of habits of neatness and 
foresight, is to be ascribed the very imperfect state of the fences. 
The great numbers of mischievous persons, which, in a district full 
of manufacturing establishments, infest the fields and pay no re- 
spect to inclosi^es, make it almost impossible for a landlord, un« 
less at a ruinous expense, to keep the fences in order, supposing 
he wished to relieve the tenant from the burden of doing so. 
Wherever a weak place in a fence is seen a gap is made ; and then 
to keep in or out his cattle, the farmer thrusts in a dead branch. 
Digging farm hedge-rows is hardly ever prtictised.* It is to be 

• It is but justice to Mr Macintosh to say, that he has this spring (1841) set the 
eiample of extensive improvements in this respect on his estate. He has alao kid 



254 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

hoped, that the better practice of other districts in the treatmeDt 
or live fences will, by-and-by, come to be appreciated, and that 
greater facilities than now exist, will be attained for checking the 
propensity to the wanton destruction of property complained of. 
At present, owing to the great distance from the county town, 
ipnd the expense and loss of time occasioned by seeking redress 
for such petty damages', people generally prefer to submit to them. 

Plantations. — Since 1794 much has been done in this depart- 
ment of rural improvement, particularly on the estate of Wood- 
head. A great deal more may yet be done with advantage, both 
in respect of proBt, as the best means of occupying the grounds; of 
beauty, as improving greatly the appearance of some parts of the 
district; and of amelioration of the climate, by the warmth and 
shelter produced, as well as by the interruption to the boisterous 
east and south-Miest winds. Forest trees of the common kinds all 
thrive here exceedingly well. The most profitable are the Scots 
fir, larch, and spruce, and the sycamore, oak, and ash. 

Manufactures, — This parish is rich in minerals, especially coal. 
The supply of water is also considerable. The union of these two 
has occasioned the establishment here of numerous and extensive 
manufactures. The principal of these are the printfields and the 
alum -work. 

Of the former, by far the most extensive is Lennox-mill Field, 
which was first established as a print-work about 1786. About 
1790 it contained twenty printing tables and six flat presses. At 
that period, however, a great many women were employed to pencil 
on colour. This method is now entirely abandoned. About 1805, 
Messrs. R. Dalglish, Falconer, and Company, became tenants of 
Lennox-mill, which had, by that time, been considerably enlarged, 
as it contained fifty tables and eight presses. In 1810, the first 
surface-printing machine was erected, which was an improvement 
on block-printing; and soon afterwards a cylinder-printing machine, 
which was an improvement on the copper-plate printing presses, 
similar to what the " surface" was on the " block." In both cases, 
what was formerly on a flat surface, was put on a cylinder of wood 
or copper. This, continually revolving, furnished itself with co- 
lour, which it, at the same time, transferred to the cloth. 

At present, almost every description of printing is performed at 
I^nnox-mill and neftly every fabric of cloth printed, from the 

out a good deal of ground in new plantations, and has furrow. drained a considerable 
numl)er of acres. 

3 



CAMPSIE. 255 

finest muslin or challis worn by ladies, to the coarsest calico worn 
by the Pariahs of India. 

Lennox-mill now contains seven printing cylinders, and 200 
tables. The water-power is equal to about 20 horses, and the 
ftteam-^ngine is 30 horse power. The heating and dyeing are all 
done by steam, for which purpose about 250 horse power of steam 
is employed. The coal consumed daily is upwards of 30 tons. 

The engraving of the copper-rollers is nearly all performed on 
the premises, and requires very nice machinery. The stock of 
copper-rollers is very heavy, amounting in number to 1500 rollers, 
weighing about 155,000 lbs., valued at Is. 6d. per lb. 

At present the works give employment to 245 men; 135 wo- 
men ; 169 boys; and 140 girls ; total, 689. The wages amount 
to upwards of L.300 per week, or L. 15,000 per annum. 

About 250,000 pieces are produced annually, consisting of gar- 
ments for home and export trade.* 

Kincaid- Field (Messrs Inglis') is an establishment for bleaching 
and printing cotton fabrics. This work was first established in 
1785. There are employed about 238 males, and 136 females, 
= 874. 

The amount of wages is nearly L.8000. Last year 70,000 
pieces of cotton fabric, 24 yards each, were bleached and printed. 

Lillybum Printfield, the property of Messrs Macfarlane, was 
commenced in 1831, for the printing of linen and calico handker- 
chiefs and shawls. The number of persons employed at present is 
about 150; but when trade is brisk, some thirty or forty additional 
hands are employed. 

The Clachan Bleachfield was begun in 1819. Next year the 
number of persons employed was 13, the number of pieces bleach- 
ed was 30,900, and the wages amounted to L.345, 3s. The num- 
ber of pieces bleached in 1836, was 190,883, and the number of 
persons 35, thus indicating a great improvement in the process ; 
and the business has since increased. The goods referred to were 
all muslins for exportation, consisting of books, gauzes, tamboured 
and sewed robes, jaconets and jaconet handkerchiefs, mulls, &c. 
in all their varieties. 

Glenmill Bleachfield, the property of Mr Mackinlay, was com- 

• A school within this work has recently been established, by Messrs Dalglish, 
for the instruction of those children who had not learned to read. To aflTord time 
for this, and to prevent overworking, an additional number of children are employed. 



256 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

menced in January 1831. The work performed consists prism <: 
pally of bleaching books of muslins, and a small portioQ of wsussl 
ing. In the year 1836, 1,273,038 yards were bleached. T*A0 
number of persons employed last year was 90 on an average, and 
the wages amounted to L.1554, 15s. lO^d. The rate otwsg^^ 
varies from 2s. 6d. to 17s. 6d. per week. Last year 587 tons ^^ 
coal were consumed. 

Connected with Glenmill is a house inhabited by females ei^" 
ployed in the work. To the manageinent and education of the^^ 
persons, Mr Mackinlay pays a degree of attention which is higbf ^ 
honourable to himself, and cannot fail to be very beneficial t^^ 
them. 

The alum-work is the property of Messrs Mackintosh and Co^^^ 
In the year 1806, an enterprising company established in this parisl^^ 
extensive chemical works for the manufacture of alum, copperas,*^ 
prussiate of potash, Prussian blue, &c The alum and copperas 
are derived from a schist or aluminous shale, which is found in 
the coal strata in this district, and is imbedded between the coal 
and the limestone, at a thickness of between eighteen inches and 
two feet, the limestone being above and the coal below. 

The constituent principles of this schistus are various. After 
the coal has been wrought out, the schist, being exposed to the 
action of the air, undergoes decomposition. The sulphur it con- 
tains is, by the absorption of oxygen, converted into sulphates of 
the metallic bases with which it is combined, and byits exfolia- 
tion readily separates itself from the limestone, and falls down 
into the space formerly occupied by the coal. When in a state 
of complete decomposition, the schist assumes a beautiful efHores- 
cent appearance, like that of flock silk, and is very soluble in water. 
This schistus, as drawn from the coal wastes, is lixiviated at the 
works in large stone cisterns, and the liquid being afterwards eva- 
porated till it attains the requisite specific gravity, it receives the 
portion of sulphate or muriate of potash necessary to its formation 
into the state of a crystallizable salt. This is the alum of com- 
merce. In this process, the copperas, existing in the ore, is se- 
parated. 

The prussiate of potash manufactory, which was the first, and 
lOr many years the only manufactory of the kind in Great Britain, 
16 upon an extensive scale, and well arranged. This salt is the 
ferrocyanate of potassium of chemists. It is i^sed by calico-print- 
ers in blue dyeing, also by wool-dyers, and likewise in the manu- 



CAMP8IB. 257 

facture of Prussian blue. The exquisite beauty of this salt con- 
trasts strangely with the filthiness of the animal matter out of 
which it is made.* 

The Prussian blue manufactory, which is in connexion with the 
above, produces Prussian blue of the finest quality. This arti- 
cle, as is known to chemists, is the result of mutual decomposi- 
tion of prussiate of potash and sulphate of iron. 

Id the year 1834, another manufactory was established by the 
same company for the production of muriate of potash for their 
ahim manufactory, and of soda ash (a crude carbonate of soda,) 
tor the use of bleachers. These salts are obtained from kelp. 
From a particular species of kelp, in addition to the above-men- 
tioned salts, iodine is also obtained, which, from the beautiful co- 
our it produces in combination with certain metallic bases, may 
kossibly, at some future period, become a valuable article in the 
lands of the calico-printer or dyer. It is as yet, so far as we 
now, used onlv in medicine. 

Coals, to the quantity of 14,500 tons, are turned out by this 
ompaoy yearly for their own use and for sale to the country, 
Iso about 450 chalders of lime. Ironstone, which abounds in this 
istrict, has been begun lately to be wrought by this company, and 
t present gives employment to many men. But, as the mining of 
ronstone here is of recent commencement, and as there seems to 
e abundance of material in the field, the operations in this de- 
artment will probably be much extended. 

The whole number of persons employed by this company is not 
ess than 180, and the amount of wages paid annually is from 
[^8000 to L. 10,000. 

There are other four coal and lime- works in the parish, at which 
here are about 20,000 tons of coal turned out annually, and about 
!600 chalders of lime burned. The present selling-price of good 
���ound coal, (1837,) is 6s. 8d. per ton of 20 cwt, dross, 3s. 9d. per 
:oD, and that of lime, 15s. 4d. per chalder of 16 bolls, for credit, 
ind 14s. 8d. per chalder for cash sale. 

The chalder of lime contains 32 Winchester bushels, each con- 
:aining 2128.9 cubic inches, and ought, like all other similar ar* 
;icle8, to be sold by this standard measure. But a practice has 
:rept in among the lime-dealers in this, as in other places, of com- 
peting with each other who shall give the largest measure, so that 

* Much lets of this salt is now manufactured here than formerly, owing to the 
;mt reduction of its price in the market. 

STIRLING. R 





258 STIULINGSHIRR. 

the measure of lime had become quite vague and un6zed. Justicd 
and expediency evidently require that such a system should be dis- 
continued, from which the public- derive no advantage, and the 
dealers can sustain only losS. The competition should be in th( 
lowness of the price, not in the largeness of the measure, whiclH=:ri 
should be fixed and ascertained. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
The great majority of the people in this parish are collected ir f 

villages. Besides Lennoxtown, containing between 2500 and 

persons, there are several considerable villages and hamlets,— -t 

Clachan, Haugh-head, Mount, Milton, Torrance, &c. The h 

mentioned has a population, (including those who dwell in the ii 

mediate neighbourhood,) of 800. It is situate in the southern 

tremity of the parish, more than three miles from the parish chui 

and five miles from the manse. There are nearly fifty pu h i ^ 

houses in this parish, — a fact suiBciently expressive of the hat=iDit8 

of a large proportion of the people, as also of the facility with wt^ kb 

licenses are granted. Those whose business it is to grant lio^^o. 

ses, and who should be guardians of the public morals, woulA do 

well to remember, that the multitude of taverns, while it indics^/es 

a great demand for spirituous liquors, also increases that demaoc/; 

for every additional public-house is a new centre of dissipation, 

bringing the family itself and all its immediate connections into 

closer contact with their most dangerous and deadly ^nemy. 

Means of Communication. — The parish is intersected by tivo 
lines of road, the one running nearly east and west, from StratK^ 
blane to Kilsyth, the other nearly at right angles from Glsagc^ ** 
over the Fells, to Fintry and Kippen. A coach leaves Lenno^ 
town every morning except ou Sundays and Thursdays, and r^ 
turns frpm Glasgow in the evening. The Forth and Clyde Can^ 
passes near the south extremity of the parish, and the Glasgo* 
road to Stirling by Kilsyth, runs through ^he south-east corner. 

Friendly and other Societies. — Several Friendly Societies exif 
ed at one time in this parish ; but an individual, suspected to 
feigning sickness, was the occasion of dissolving them all. 

The skeletons exist of two mason lodges. 

An attempt was made in 1837 to establish a savings bank; 
the bulk of those for whose benefit it was designed would n 
persuaded. 

Ecclesiastical State. — Campsie was a parish of note in Cf 
times. The parson of Campsie was sacristan of the Cathe 



CAMPSIR. ^-r*"^ 259 

Glasgow, where he resided, being one of the canons. He served 
:he cure by a vicar. The living appears to have been great. Lam- 
3erton, Beaton, and W. Erskine, afterwards Archbishop of Glas- 
gow, were all of them parsons of Cam^sie.* 

The old church stood at the Clachan, where the mansd and the 
parish school yet remain. It was small and inconveniently placed, 
being near the western extremity of the parish, and five miles dis- 
tant from a large number of the people. The present parish church 
was built at Lennoxtown in 1829, — which village, besides contain- 
ing a large proportion of the whole population, is also nearly in 
ibe centre of the parish — though many of the people are still three 
Qiles distant from the church. This applies particularly to the 
illage of Torrance, which adjoins the parish of Cadder, to which 
; might be attached with advantage to all parties, there being 
Imuij of room for the people in Cadder parish church, and the 
minister being enabled, by the small number of his own parishion- 
rSy and the proximity of Torrance^ to give the inhabitants of this 
illage, a degree of attention which the minister of Campsie, be- 
Qg five miles off, and having a very populous parish to attend 
Of can never be expected to render. 

The congregation in Campsie church is numerous in moderate 
veather, though less so than it should be. That part of the peo- 
)]e who dwell near are not more regular in attendance than those 
who are distant, but, in many cases, less so. A great number of 
persons go very seldom to church — many never. The excuse most 
frequently alleged is want of suitable clothing. To meet this evil as 
far as possible the three parish school-houses, situate, all of them, 
it considerable distances from the church, are employed on Sunday 
evenings as preaching stations, as is also the large new school-house 

* It appears that Alwin, second Earl of Lennox, who succeeded to his father in 
1 165* *' gave to Walter Bishop of Glasgow, and his successors in that see, the church 
of Campsie in his Earldom of Lennox, ad orandum pro animabus regis David et Co- 
mitis Henrici, et recjs Malcolmi et pro salute domini sui Willielmi regis, et domi- 
n« Emergarda reginai, &c. &c.** — Chartulary of Glasgow. 

In Douglas's Peerage, it is stated that the church of Campsie was built and endow- 
ed by Isabella, Duchess of Albany, by charter to the Convent of Grayfriars at Glas- 
gow, dated 18th May 1451, and the endowment is declared to be made" pro salute 
animsB nostrae et pro salute quond. recolendiememoria dilectissimi spotisi nostri Do* 
mini Mardaci dudum Ducis Abanie, necnon, pro anima quond. Domini Duncani 
Comitis de Levenax, progenitoris nostri, ao pro animabus Walteri, Jacobi et Alexau- 
dri, quondam filiorum nostrorum.** Mr Lapslie says it wasone of the bishop's church- 
es giAed by Donald Earl of Lennox to the sec of Glasgow in the year 1270, ThU 
must be a misukc for Malcolm was Earl at that time. The first Donald that posses- 
sed the Earldom succeeded in 1933. The donation mentioned in the former extract 
was probably the first bequest of lands in Campsie to the church. Duchess Isabella 
probably erected the first church or at least a new church, and bestowed ndditiocal 
lands. 






260 ^^1^ STIULINGSHIUE. 

in Leniu)Xtown — in'one or more of which places there is always dur* 
ing winter, public worship on Sunday evenings — not without ih 
appearance of much benefit^ — many persons attending the preach- 
ing stations who never come to church. 

There is in Lennoxtown a Relief chapel, capable of containinj 
about 600 persons. It was built by a few of the principal heritoi 
who were oflfended at the appointment of Mr Lapslie as parish mr" 
nister in 1784. 

There is a considerable Roman Catholic population in Cam^ 
sie, all Irish, and amounting to between^ 600 and 1000 persoi 
A priest has resided some time in Lennoxtown, since whose coi 
ing, that part of the people have been more sober and orderly tl 
they formerly were. 

A few individuals attend Dissenting places of worship in Ki "^rk^ 
intilloch — and the Chartists have had meetings on Sundays sf^moe 
time past. There is also a small body of Methodists in the parisft. 
In my opinion, the religious and moral character of the people /s 
improving, though more slowly than one could wish.* 

• Tlie following interesting note is copied from Mr Lapslie's Account of this parish. 
It is also engrossed on a blank leaf of the old session-book. 

There is reason to believe the clergymen of Campsie continued Roman Catholie, 
and occasionally performed the Romish service in it till 1572. We find, 

1. Mr Stoddart, Presbyterian minister of Campsie. dd November 1581. 

2. Mr James Stewart, settled assistant and successor, 25th March 1607. 

3. Mr James Crichton, admitted 23d April 1628. He was deposed for what 
was called corrupt doctrine. There is a tradition in the parish, that he could walk 
(from the Clachan, I suppose,) to the top of the Fells in twenty minutes, eating a 
pease barnock. A heap of stones on the summit still retains the name Crichtoo^ 
Cairn." 

4. Mr Alexander Forbes was admitted 16th December 1629, and was deposed for 
not conforming to the synod of Glasgow, April Sd 1639. 

5. Mr John Collins was admitted 2d November 1641. He was murdered re- 
turning from the presbytery about Martinmas 1648. Suspicion fell on the lairuof 
Belglass, a small heritor in the parish, who fled the country. 

6. Mr Archibald Dennistoun was ordained 30th March 1649, and deposed by tl>e 
protesters in 1655. He was restored in 1661, and died 1679. There is a story toW 
of him that, in the year 1655, he bad begun a discourse on a text, and had half finish- 
ed the first head. In the year 1661, when restored, he took up his discourse where he 
had left oflT, remarking, that ** the times were altered, but the Gospel was still the 



same ** 



Principal Baillie says of Dennistoun, " He, for his part, saw nothing evil o^ ^* 
man. The protesters put in his room a Mr John Law, a poor haxtercaUan, who h*J 
but lately lefl his trade^ and hardly knew his grammar ; but they said he v^asgifi^^ 

7. Mr John Law was ordained by the protesters in 1656, ejected in 1661, and ^^' 
stored in 1688. He never again officiated in Campsie. 

8. Mr George Miln was instituted 24th June 1681. He was turned out at y^^ 
Revolution, and ^was exceedingly ill used. The worthless part of the parish, bavi[^^ 
risen in a mob, broke his furniture, and threatened his person. By way of ret»J**' 
tion, this gentleman carried away the records of the parish. 



• " Rem aususplus famae habituram apud posteros quani fidei." The feat, atle«*^' 
far exceeds the powers of such men as live in this age of the world. 




CAMPSIE. .-^^ 261 



In 1618) the stipend was 2 chalders of meal and 600 merks. In 
649, an augmentation of one chalder of meal, and 100 merks was 
[ranted. The stipend was augmented in 1817 to 18 chalders, 
aeal and barley, in equal quantity. There are nearly L. 700 a 
'ear of unexhausted teinds. An augmentation of 2 chalders, in 
rhich all the heritors concurred, was, on the 20th of February 
839, sanctioned by the Court of Teinds. The manse is about 
orty years old. The ol<^ manse, situate behind the present, is 
onverted into offices. The glebe ^ is said to be 5 ^ acres. A 
rass glebe of 5^ acres additional was allocated in 1646; 
ut, owing to the turbulence of the times, the minister does 
ot appear ever to have been in possession. In order to make up 
> him the want of a grass glebe, a few of the larger proprietors 
mted for the late incumbent a park of seven acres. 

Education. — Until the last few years the state of education was 
cceedingly low, and the number of persons who could not write 
* read lamentably great This unfortunate state of things is ra- 
dly in the course of being removed, though to remove it effectu- 
ly will require great attention and continued efforts for many 
(ars to come. 

The parish school, as already stated, is situated at the Clachan. 
onfonnably to an Act of Parliament, 43 George III. c. 54, 
le heritors of Campsie resolved, in 1803, to grant an allowance 
two additional schools, to wit, that at Craighead, and that 
Torrance. The salary at present payable to the school- 
asters is three chalders of oatmeal, at the average price dur- 



9. Mr John Govan, who had been imprisoned in the Bass, was ordained 5th De- 

mber 1688, and died in 1729. 

0. He was succeeded by his nephew, Mr John Forrester, who died September 1731 , 

ed25. 

11. Mr John Warden, son of the minister of Gargunnock, was ordained dd April, 
%. This gentleman was translated first to Perth, and then to the Canongate, 
dinburgh. 

12. Mr Wilt'iam Bell, ordained 24th September 1747, and died 8th May 1783. 
any of the old inhabitants yet remember and speak of Mr Bell, who seems to have 
en an industrious and conscientious clergyman. 

13. Mr James Lapslie, succeeded November 27, 1783, and died 1 1th November 1824. 
e was a native of Campsie, and, though not without many faults, a man of genius 
d of extensive and various information. The old Statbtical Account of this parish 
'itten by him, is not inferior to any article in that work. He had an uncommon 
w of natural eloquence; and many of his striking observations arc still remembered 
id repeated by the people. * 

14. Dr Norman Macleod was admitted August 11, 1825, and translated to one of 
e Gaelic churches in Glasgow ISSfi. 

15. The present incumbent was admitted 5th May 183C. 

Thus fifVecn clergymen have held the living of Campsie since the year 1582, being 
ncwhat less than sixteen years each. Of the number — two were translated— five de- 
sed»and o&c murdered. 



262 *^- STIRLINGSHIRE. 

ing twenty years, commencing 1828, or L. 17, 28. S^d. per chal- 
der. The interest of a sum of L. 270, bequeathed by Robert 
Blair, Esq. of Glasgow — has been enjoyed by the parish school- 
master at Clachan since the year 1825. The schoolmaster at. Craig- 
head also is in possession of the interest of the sumofL^ 50, bequeath- 
ed by Mr James Young, of the' parish of St John in Bedwardine, 
in the county of Worcester, Chapman, in the year 1729. 

The school-house at Craighead having fallen into disrepair, has 
been rebuilt on a much enlarged scale, according to a very neat 
plan, furnished by Mr Galloway, factor to Mr Lentiox. To this 
important object the chief subscribers were Mr Lennox and Messrs 
David and Henry Inglis. 

The Messrs Inglis, with a laudable anxiety for the education of 
the young persons employed in their printfield, and residing in its 
neighbourhood, also allow L.20 per annum to the master of 
Craighead school, on condition of his teaching a Sunday school. 

In Lennoxtown, the want of a large and superior school has 
long been felt ; and this want has now been supplied by the erec- 
tion of a splendid school-house, containing two very large rooms, 
with all accompanying accommodations. The plan of this school- 
house, like that at Craighead, was furnished by Mr Galloway, to 
whose taste it is highly creditable, and who kindly superintended 
the erection of both these buildings.* The chief contributors to 
this important undertaking were Mr Lennox and the Messrs Dal- 
glish, both of which parties have expended a large sum of money 
upon it; Mr Macintosh; Mr Stirling, Craigbarnet; Mr M'Far- 
lan, Bancleroche; and many of the other inhabitants have also 
assisted in a work which all felt to be important At present the 
one room is used as a juvenile school, and is attended by upwards 
of 100 pupils. In the other an infant school has been tried dur- 
ing the past year with very encouraging success. 

Besides these, there are two or three schools on the teachers' 
own adventure, and two or three small female schools. The whole 
number of children attending day-schools, at present, in the pa- 
rish, including the infant school, is about 520, exclusive of the 
children who are taught during work hours in Lennox Mill, and 
those taugh^ in evening-schools and Sunday-schools. 

In all the schools the common branches are taught, with gram- 
mar, geography, &c. A few are learning Latin, Greek, and 

* It is right to acknowledge that I have received large assistance from this gen- 
tleman in drawing up this account of the parish of Campsie. 



CAMP8IK. . 263 

French. We are at present uncommonly fortunate in our teachers; 
so that I am sanguine in the expectation, that, in the course of a 
few years, there will not be an inhabitant in this parish that can- 
not read and write. 

Libraries. — There are two libraries in this parish. The Camp- 
sie Subscription Library was established in 1837, and consists of 
a good selection of books. It is the property of subscribers to 
the amount of L. 1 or upwards. The Campsie Popular Library 
originated the same year, and belongs to subscribers to the amount 
of 5s. It also contains a considerable number of books. The 
terms of reading are very low in both. 

Poor^t Funds. — It appears on a retrospect of twenty years that, 
at the commencement of that period, there were 30 individuals 
on the roll of paupers in the parish of Campsie receiving regular 
monthly allowances : in 1827, there were 44 ; at present, there are 
70, besides those receiving occasional relief. The expenditure 
on account of the poor amounted in 1817 to L. 136; in 1827, 
to Lb 148; in 1837, it exceeded L. 226. The regular sources 
from which the sums were derived necessary to meet these dis- 
bursements were, 1. collections at the church doors ; 2. dues of 
proclamations and mortcloth; 3. perpetual annuity of L. 15 from 
Woodhead ; 4. interest of L. 500 lent on bo nd. Previous to the 
year 1832, the money required for the poor, in addition to these 
branches of income, was supplied by voluntary contribution. In 
1831, a subscription, according to their valued rent, having been 
set on foot, certain of the heritors refused to contribute their pro* 
portion so long as there existed a lying fund belonging to the poor. 
This fund was accordingly drawn upon, till 1838, when it was ex- 
hausted. The necessity of a legal assessment has been in the 
meantime avoided by a voluntary contribution by the principal peo- 
ple in the parish, together with the heritors — to raise the requisite 
funds for the current year. 

May 1841. 



PARISH OF KIPPEN. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUNBLANE, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLlNa 

THE REV. WILLIAM ANDERSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name and Boundaries. — The name Kippen is said to be cle- 

rived from a Gaelic word signifying a promontory ; and is suppos* 

ed to be descriptive of the situation of the village. 

The figure of the parish is irregular. Its greatest length is 
about 8 miles, and its breadth is from 2 to nearly 4 miles. It 
is bounded on the north by the river Forth, which separates it 
from the parish of Port and the newly erected parish of Norries- 
town ; on the east, by Gargunnock ; on the south, by Balfron ; 
and, on the west, by the parish of Drymen. It lies chiefly in 
the county of Stirling ; but, in different places, it is intersected 
by portions of Perthshire, which run across it from north to south, 
and form nearly a third part of the parish. 

Meteorology. — The temperature of the. air is rather cold, owing 
to the generally northern aspect of the parish, and the open and 
extensive plain below, which stretches chiefly toward the north 
and east. The climate is somewhat damp, from the vicinity 
of the parish to high mountains, and its consequent exposure to >* 
frequent showers ; but it is by no means considered unhealthy. 
The showers, though frequent, are seldom very heavy, or of long ^ 
continuance. Snow seldom falls to any considerable depth, .. 
nor does it in general lie long. Consumption has, perhaps, « 
been the most common and fatal disease for a considerable time 
past 

Hydrography. — Forth, the only river connected with this pa- 
rish, and which divides it from the parishes of Port and Norries- 
town, is here confined within narrow and deep banks ; and its cur- 
rent so slow as hardly to be perceptible. Its waters are gene- 
rally dark and muddy, from the quantity of moss which is floated 
into it. 

There is, in the moor of Kippen, a small lake of water called 



KIPPEN. 265 

Lochleggan, about a mile in circumference, and mostly surrounded 
with wood. A considerable stream issues from it, which, increas- 
ing as it proceeds, forms the burn of Broich, the waters of which, 
after passing through a beautiful glen close by the House of 
Broich, are chiefly employed in floating away the patch of moss in 
the plain below. 

The burn of Boquhan, which forms the boundary between the 
parishes of Kippen and Gargunnock, ^> descending from the rock 
of Ballochleam, meets with the red sandstone," (says the late Ge- 
neral Campbell in notes quoted in the last Statistical Account), 
'' through which it has opened a passage, and wrought its soft ma- 
terials into a number of curious shapes, such as the wells and cal- 
drons of the Devon." After running through a beautiful and 
well-wooded glen, along which the proprietor of Boquhan has 
formed extensive and delightful walks, it empties itself into the 
Forth at the Bridge of Frew. 

In several places the parish is intersected with glens and rivu- 
letSy in which there are some beautiful cascades. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The moor of Kippen abounds with 
red sandstone, which is much used in building, and is occa- 
sionally conveyed to a considerable distance for that purpose. 
It is soft and easily wrought, and becomes hard and durable, on 
1>eing exposed to the weather. On the southern boundary of the 
^risb, limestone is found ; but, owing to the distance from coal, 
it has seldom been wrought. It is supposed that coal may be 
obtained in the immediate neighbourhood ; but any attempts 
which have been made to obtain it, have as yet been unsuccessful. 
In respect of soil, this parish is divided into what is commonly 
called carse and dry-field. The former consists of the low ground 
which lies on the south side of the Forth, between that river and 
the rising ground. It is of unequal breadth, — from half a mile to 
a mile, and in some places more, and forms a part of that exten- 
sive plain which reaches from the neighbourhood of Gartmore, on 
both sides of the river, to Stirling. In three different places in 
this parish, there are patches of moss still covering not less than 
300 acres of rich carse ground ; and, there is reason to believe, 
that the whole plain was at one time under moss. Indeed, from 
substances found in the soil, and from the aspect of the higher 
grounds by which it is bounded, it seems probable that, at some for- 
mer period, it was covered by the sea. And after the waters had 
receded, the plain appears to have been occupied with trees and 



2G6 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

shrubs, by the fall and putrefaction of which the mosf wuin dm 1^ 
time formed. Accordingly, oaks of a great size are still fmrnd in ^^ 
the soil from which the moss is removed. On some of these oak% 
the marks of an axe or hatchet are seen, which serve to show that | j-^ 
they were cut down by the hand of man. And it is highly pro- 
bable, that they were cut down chiefly by the Roman legions efl^ 
ployed in clearing away the forests in which the Britons and Ci- | it i 
ledonians concealed themselves from their enemies, and from 
which, as they had opportunity, they sallied forth against them. 

The carse ground is a rich clay, and is, in general, well culti- 
vated; and, in favourable seasons, produces excellent crops of 
wheat, and beans, and oats. There is along the banks of the 
Forth, a narrow haugh or holm which is very fertile, and better 
adapted to the growth of potato and turnip than the strong da; 
soil. From the carse the land rises at Grst abruptly, and then |e^ 
very gradually for about a mile, and in some places considerably 
more. This elevated part of the parish is called the dryGeld, and ^^ 
forms the largest portion of the cultivated ground. The soil is 
in some places loamy and sandy, and in others gravelly, l^ 
is generally well cultivated and enclosed, and in many placed 
produces excellent crops. The land toward the summit of tb^ 
rising ground, and on its southern declivity, is lighter and less fel^ 
tile; and it has been considered more advantageous to lay anunc^' 
ber of acres of it in pasture. Along the summit of the gently ri^^ 
ing hill, on the northern declivity of which the largest portion '"^ 
the cultivated land is situated, there is a heathy moor, which ru 
almost the whole length of the parish, and extends into the 
rish of Balfron. From those higher grounds, and, indeed, (rot^^^^^ 
many parts of the parish, an extensive and beautiful prospect ^^ ^ 
presented to the view of the spectator, of fertile fields, and om 
men ted seats of the proprietors, encompassed with a rugged ranj^ 
of the Grampian mountiiins, reaching from Benlomond to th ^^^^ 
Ochil Hills, and forming the northern boundary of the widely ex^^^' 
tended plain. 

Botany, — There are some extensive and thriving plantations if -^ *" 
this parish, especially on the estates of Mr Campbell of Boquharr"^ -"^ 
Mr Stirling of Garden, and Mr Erskine of Cardross. The woocfc^*"^ 
on the higher grounds, is chiefly larch and Scotch fir. A consider^' ^^' 
able part of the eastern extremity of the moor has been plante -^^^^ 
with these, and similar sorts of frees, which are thriving well; an^ ^" 
more of the moor is likelv to ho planted soon. Oaks, asb, an^"^^^" 




KIPPEN* 267 

Im thriTe well on the lower grounds, and are extensively planted. 
Do the banks of the glens, there are considerable portions of 
hriTing coppice-wood. 

There is close by the House of Broich, one of the finest yew 
fees in Scotland. It is about 50 feet in height, and the circum- 
erence of the trunk is above 10 feet It is of a conical form, and 
be lower branches extend down to the ground, and overspread a 
pace, the circumference of which is not less than 200 feet. It 
s supposed to be about 300 years old. 

II. — Civil History. 
Historical Notices. — In the year 1676, the Sacrament of the 

l.ord's Supper was dispensed, in the night, to a very numerous as- 
embly at Arnbeg, about a mile west from the village of Kippen. 
3uring the persecution that prevailed in the reign of Charles II. 
md James IL, the inhabitants of this parish were subjected to se- 
rere hardships. Mr Ure of Shirgarton, a gentleman highly dis- 
;tnguished by his piety and zeal, suffered much for conscience 
uike, and made many narrow escapes from the hands of his perse- 
(^utors. He signalized himself by his bravery at the battle of 
Bothwell Bridge. A memoir of him, chiefly drawn up by himself, 
has been published by the late celebrated Dr M^Crie. 

The late Mr James Miller, preacher of the Gospel, Edinburgh, 
who was a native of this parish, is deserving of notice, as a good 
man and a generous benefactor to the young men prosecuting their 
studies, with a view to the holy ministry. He mortified a sum of 
money, the interest of which is to be paid as a bursary to two stu« 
jents during their attendance, respectively, at the classes of Greek, 
logic, moral and natural philosophy, in the Universities of Edin- 
burgh and Glasgow. The amount of the bursary is, to the former, 
Lf.24, and to the' latter, nearly the same sum. The kirk-session 
of Kippen are the patrons, and the election is directed to be made 
on his father's grave-stone in the church-yard of Kippen. 

lAind'Oumers, — James Stirling, Esq. of Garden; William C. 
C. Graham, Esq. of Gartmore ; Henry F. Campbell, Esq. of 
Boquhan ; David Erskine, Esq. of Cardross ; Buchanan Leckie, 
Esq. of Broich, and William Galbraith, Esq. of Blackhouse and 
Little Kerse, are the principal proprietors in this parish. There are 
a number of other respectable land-owners, some of whom reside 
upon their properties. 

Parochial Registers. — There are no records extant previous to 
1700. From that date to 1745, the parochial registers have been 
kept with considerable accuracy. From 1745 to 1757, the regis- 



26S STIRLINGSHIRE. 

ter of marriages lias been neglected ; and from that period also, 
many parents, connected with the Secession church, have omitted 
the registration of the names of their children. No proper regis* 
ter of deaths b kept in the parish. 

Antiquities. — llie names and situation of several places in the 
parish plainly show, that, in former times, they had been places of 
strength. Thus there is the Castle of Amfinlay ; and also the tower 
of Garden, no vestiges of which, however, now remain. And there 
are several small heights in the parish to which the name Keir b 
applied, which bear the marks of some ancient military works, such 
as Keir-hill of Glentirran ; Keir-hill of Dasher ; Keir-brae of 
Drum ; Keir-knowe of Ammore ; and Keir-brae of Garden. Va- 
rious opinions have been entertained concerning the origin and use 
of these works ; but no satisfactory account can be given of them. 

III. — Population. 
The population of this parish is nearly as great as it appears iQ 
have been at any former period ; for although, by the enlargement 
of the farms, the number of people, in the country part of the pa«^ 
rish, is diminished, the population of the villages has increased " 
The encouragment, for some time, given to weaving, and the der^* 
mand still for labourers, in the neighbourhood, have served cod 
siderably to increase the number of inhabitants in the villages. 

In 1793 the population was 1777 
1801 . 1722 

1811 . 1893 

1821 . . . 2029 

1831 . 2085 

Proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 00 and upwards are 15 in numlH*r, 
ot whom not more than five reside in the parish, . . . 56 

The number of unmarried men, bachelors, &c. in the parish, above 50, and 

women, &c. above 45, • . . 125 

The average number of births yearly for last seven years, . . 45 

marriages, yearly, do. . . 16 

deaths, &c. may be . • . . SO 

of persons under fifteen years of age, . 228 

of persons above seventy dt». . . 57 

There is a boy in the parish, and also a girl, who may be con- 
sidered fatuous. They are connected with the labouring classes, 
and are supported by their parents. 

The people, on the whole, enjoy in a reasonable degree, the 
comforts of life, and are contented with their situation and circum- 
stances ; and they are in general intelligent, moral, and religious. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of imperial acres 
in the parish which have been cultivated, is 5238; — of these 1807 
acres are carse land, and the remaining acres are dryfield. Tlie 



KIPPEN. 269 

number of acres which nev^r have been cultivated, and which re- 
main constantly waste, or in pasture, is about 4256, about 2Q(H) 
of which belong to the extensive moor in the higher part of the 
parish, and to the patches of moss which still remain to be cleare<l 
away from the lower grounds : they are of very little value. There 
are upwards of 300 aqres in these patches of moss, which might be 
profitably brought under cultivation. The expense of clearing away 
the moss from each acre, is about L. 28 ; and the rent of the 
acre when cleared and cultivated, is nearly L. 2. There are 200 
acres of undivided common connected with the above moor. The 
Dumber of acres under natural wood is about 62 ; and under plan- 
tations 500. 

Rent of Land. — Some of the carse land is let at about L. 2^ 
1 08. per acre ; and some of the dryiield is let at more. But the 
^iverage rent of the arable land, including the carse and the dry- 
iield, or towards the summit of the rising grounds, may be about 
L* 1, 5s. ; and the average rent of the remaining portion of the ara- 
ble land may be about 7s. per acre. 
. Sate of Wages, — The rate of wages to farm-servants is from 
1/. 12 to L. 14 per annum, with victuals; and to female ser- 
vants, L. 6. The wages of day-labourers are Is. 6d. with victuals, 
per day, for men ; for women Is. The wages of wrights and ma- 
sons are 2s. 6d. per day, with victuals. 

Husbandry, — The farm-buildings are generally good, and the 
lands, especially in the lower parts of the dryfield, and in the carse, 
are well enclosed. The crops are chiefly wheat, oats, barley, and 
beans ; but wheat and beans do not, in general, produce an abundant 
crop in the dryfield. Wedge-draining is now very common in the 
carse, and contributes greatly to its fertility. The expense is often 
defrayed, in favourable seasons, by the abundance of the first crop. 
Draining is in very general use in the dryfield, many parts of which 
are greatly improved by means of it. 

The Ayrshire breed of cows prevail in this parish, and great 
attention is paid to improving them. 

Produce, — The average gross amount and value of raw produce 
■^ised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : 

Produce of grain of all kinds, . L. Ql''^ 13 

potatoes and turnip, . 1H07 12 

hay, meadow and cultivated, 1414 12 

land in pasture, . . 24d9 

miscellaneous produce, . 1219 10 



X»tal yearly valued of raw produce, L. 16069 7 



270 STIRLINGSHIUE. 

A distillery in the parish pays of duty to government, L. 17,000 
yearly. 

V. — Parochial Economy, 
Market-Towns. — The nearest market-town is Stirling, which 

is about ten miles distant. There are two villages in the parish,— 
Kippen and Buchlyvie, the former of which contains 600, and the 
latter 400 inhabitants. They are five miles distant from each other. 

Means of Commuvication. — There is a daily post to Kippen, and 
one six days in the week to Buchlyvie. The road from Stirling 
to Dunbarton runs about seven miles through the parish, and now 
passes along the level plain immediately below the village. A good 
turnpike road from Kippen to Glasgow runs more than three miles 
through the parish in a south-west direction. There are two 
bridges over the Forth, on the boundary of this parish ; one at 
Frew and another near Cardross, both in good repair; along the 
last of which, the road from Callander to Glasgow passes, and runs 
across the centre of this parish. 

Ecclesiastical Estate. — The parish church is not inconrenientlj 
situated, in respect of the bulk of the population now connected 
with it. It was built in 1825, and is in a good state of repair. 
It aGTords accommodation for 800 sitters. There are only four or 
five free sittings in the church. The seats are divided among the 
heritors, according to their respective valu<ations, who, after reserv- 
ing family seats for themselves, have appropriated the remainder 
to their tenants. The manse was built in 1706, and was com- 
pletely repaired, and received a large addition in 1814; and it is 
now a commodious dwelling. 

The glebe is four acres Scots in extent, and may be worth about 
L. 12. 

The stipend consists of sixteen chalders, — half meal and half 
barley, — paid according to the rate of the highest fiar prices of 
the counties of Stirling and Perth, with L. J for communion ele- 
ments. 

In 1835, a new church was built at Buchlyvie, in connection with 
the Church of Scotland, which contains 350 sitters. It is intend- 
ed to accommodate those of the parishioners of Kippen and Dry- 
men, who are at a distance from the parish churches. And ac- 
cordingly, a district of this parish, containing 700 inhabitants, and 
a district of Drymen parish, containing 400, have been assigned to 
it, and it is now ecclesiastically erected into the parish of Buchlv- 
vie; the minister of which is paid from the seat rents and the col- 



KIPPEK. 271 

lections at the church doors, and receives L. 70 yearly, besides 
a small sum for communion elements. There is also, at Buchly- 
vie, a meeting-house in connection with the United Secession 
church, which was built in J 751 ; and contains between 400 and 
500 sitters. The minister is paid also from the seat-rents and 
collections; and his stipend probably amounts to about L. 100 
yearly. There are about six Episcopalians in the parish, and 
three Roman Catholics. 

The average amount of church collections yearly, for religious 
purposes, is about L. 20. 

Education. — There are seven schools in the parish ; two of 
them parochial — Kippen and Claymires ; and four of them un- 
endowed — one at Kippen, one at Arnprior, and two at Buchly vie, 
the teachers of which are paid entirely from the school fees ; and 
a female school, the mistress of which receives, from subscriptions 
by respectable individuals around, L. 20 yearly, besides half of 
the school fees. The schoolmaster of Kippen receives of salary 
500 merks Scots; and the schoolmaster of Claymires 100 — being 
to the one L. 27, 15s. 6^d., and to the other, about L. 5, 1 Is. l^d. 
The ordinary branches are taught. Reading English is 2s. 6d. 
per quarter ; writing, 4s. ; arithmetic and book-keeping are 5s. ; 
and Latin, 7s. 6d. The parish schoolmaster has the legal accom- 
modation. 

The people are in general alive to the benefits of education, 
and desirous to have their children properly instructed. 

Libraries. — There are two small libraries in the parish — a sub- 
scription library, and a gratis religious one ; both of which have 
received considerable attention from the inhabitants. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is about 32 ; and the average sum paid to 
each of them monthly is about 5s. The annual expenditure for 
the support of the poor is at present about L. 120. Tho money 
arising from the collections at the church door, and from mar- 
riage-dues, and the proceeds of mortcloth, with interest of L. 450, 
was, till lately, sufficient for defraying the expense of supporting 
the poor. But the interest of the money having ceased to be paid, 
from its being lent on insufficient security, the heritors assessed 
themselves for the deficiency in the poor's funds ; and some of 
them having had recourse on their tenants for the half of the as- 
sessment, they withheld their collections, which necessarily in- 
creased the amount of the assessment ; and from that source more 



272 STIRMNGSHIRE. 

than half of the money required for the support of the poor is at 
present derived. All the lieritors have now ceased to demand 
any part of the assessment from their tenants ; but it will be diffi- 
cult to bring them to give their collections as formerly. A con- 
siderable part of the L. 450 has lately been recovered, and an ad- 
ditional bequest of L. 1 50 been received for the poor ; and were 
the people to return to their former habit of giving collections, the 
assessment might be soon discontinued ; which would be very de« 
sirable, as assessments no doubt serve to overcome the disinclina- 
tion of the poor to receive parochial relief. 

Fair*. — There are several fairs held in the course of the year 
both in Kippen and Buchlyvie ; but, excepting two or three of them, 
they are poorly attended. The large market, chiefly for black-cattle, 
which was formerly held at Balgair, in the parish of Balfron, is 
now held in the moor of Kippen, about three miles from the vil- 
lage, in the month of June; and two other considerable markets 
for a similar purpose are held in the same place, the one in March, 
and the other in May. 

Inns. — There are no less than 1 1 inns or public-houses in the 
parish. They have, no doubt, to a certain extent, a demoralizing 
influence, and it would be desirable that their number should be 
diminished. 

FueL — The fuel used in the parish is coal, driven from Bannock- 
burn, a distance of twelve or thirteen miles ; and peat procured 
from the neighbouring mosses. The peat, in general, is of excel- 
lent quality, and a considerable quantity of it is used for fuel ; but 
coal is perhfips in fully more general use. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
This parish has been much improved since the publication of the 

last Statistical Account, in respect of the extent of plantations, and 
the progress of draining, and the superior system of husbandry 
which is now pursued. Thrashing-machines are now in general 
use ; and a reaping-machine has lately been introduced into the 
parish, which seems to give satisfaction ; but it is specially suit- 
ed to the carse grounds, which are level, and free from stones. 
The distance from coal and lime is a great inconvenience connect.— 
ed with this parish. Some communication by means of a canal ot 
railroad along the plain, would be a great improvement to this dis- 
trict of country, and would be highly conducive to the comfort o/" 
its inhabitants. 

Drawn up March 1839. Revised May 1841. 



PARISH OF SLAMANAN. 

PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER DAVIDSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural Histoiiy. 
It is recorded in Robertson's Index, that, in the year 1470, 
and reign of James IL, Lord Livingstone obtained a grant of the 
lands of Slamanan under the Great Seal. His Lordship's sue* 
oessors, the Earls of Linlithgow and Callander, feued out these 
lands to different proprietors, the superiority of which remained 
in the Callander family till the year 1715, when they were for- 
feited to the Crown, together with the patronage of the church. 
But it is uncertain whether the foresaid charter contained a grant 
of all the lands, or only a part, as the papers of many of the pro- 
prietors bear that their lands were feued from Lord Torphichen. 
In proof of this we find, that Robert II. gave a charter to James 
de Sandelands of Slamanon More, in Stirlingshire, to be holden by 
the said James, and Joanna, the king's daughter, his spouse, and 
their heirs. As the lands of the parish are sucken to two mills, 
it would seem that Lord Torphichen was proprietor of one -half of 
the parish, and the Earl of Callander the other. 

Name. — .This parish is called Slamanan and St Laurence. 
The former is generally used, and the latter is only found in the 
records of session, and in the presentation issued by the Crown, 
" the church and parish of Slamanan, otherwise St Laurence." 
It is highly probable that St Laurence was not the original name 
of the parish, but only of the church, and the lands adjoining to it ; 
for a little to the south-east of the church, there is an excellent 
spring of water which still goes by the name of St Laurence's Well. 
As places of worship were frequently denominated from particular 
saints, St Laurence would appear to have bean the tutelar saint 
of this parish. But the etymology of the name Slamanan is, like 
that of many other proper names, uncertain, and merely con- 

STIRLING. S 



274 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

jecturaL Some writers have supposed that the word signifies 
slender river, that is, " place on slender part of rivers Others 
have derived it from the following circumstance : that when 
the 'Earl of Callander sent to plough a certain portion of the 
parish, (then a moor,) he inquired of the servant on his return, 
how it would work, to which the answer was, ^^ It would slay both 
man and mare." Others haVe supposed, that, from its vicinity to 
the Caledonian forest, it had often been the scene of conflict. In 
proof of which, there is a rising ground a little to the south of the 
church, called Castle-hill, where a fort once stood, but of which 
no vestige remains, excepting the farm-house, which still goes by 
the name Castle-hill ; and a little to the eastward of this hilly 
there is another rising ground where there are still some remains 
of a trench, and which goes by the name of Kill-hills, because of 
the numbers which were supposed to have been slain there. Be- 
sides, there were adjacent to these, two cones of earth about forty 
yards separate, which are supposed to have been raised as monO' 
ments of peace, like the two at Dunipace. One of these still re- 
main, and is evidently artificial ; the other was levelled, and the 
church of St iJawrence built upon it ; the former still goes by tbe 
name of the moat The names of these places, with others of si- 
milar import, such as Balcastle, Balquhatston, &c. confirm the 
belief, that these grounds have been the arena of many a severe 
battle. In the session records, the name is always spelt Slamanna, 
dropping the letter n. It is highly probable that the name is of 
Gaelic origin, purporting brown^ or grey^ or long heath, for the 
parish must have been originally covered with heath. 

Situation and Extent. — This parish is bounded on the north- 
west by the parish of Cumbernauld ; on the west and south-west, 
by the parish of New Monkland ; on the east and south-east, by 
the parish of Torphichen ; and on the north and north-east, by 
Muiravonside, Polmont, and Falkirk. At the north-west extremity 
there is a point where three counties meet, viz. Stirling, Dumbar- 
ton, and Lanark ; and on the south, there is another point where the 
counties of Stirling and Lanark meet with the county of Linlith- 
gow. The parish of Slamanan lies on the south of the water of 
Avon, and is from 5 to 6 miles in length, and about 3 in breadth. 
In 1730, when the parish of Polmont was disjoined from that of 
Falkirk, a considerable portion of that parish which lies on the 
north of the Avon, was annexed, quoad sacra, to the parish of 
Slamanan, making the whole parish upwards of 6 miles in length. 



SLAMANAN. 275 

and nearly 5 in breadth. The heritors of the annexed divisions 
are bound to maintain the church and the church-yard wall of 
Slamanan for 100 years, and the poor of that district were sup- 
ported by one-third of the collections, and occasional assessments. 
But the wise men of this generation have disturbed this arrange- 
ment, and the heritors in the annexation are now assessed along 
with the other heritors, in maintaining the poor in that parish. 

Rivers and Lochs. — The river or rather the stream Avon, which 
runs from west to east, through this parish, takes its rise from a 
moss in the parish of New Monkland, and a small tributary stream 
from Fannyside loch, in the parish of Cumbernauld, and another 
from the Annexation in Moss Candle. These streams, though 
small in summer and in dry weather, yet swell to a great extent 
after a fall of rain, and the breaking up of a snow storm, — so that the 
Avon often overflows its banks, and exhibits the appearance of an 
estuary. When these floods happen during summer or harvest, 
great damage is done to the growing corn and" the meadow hay : 
and so offensive is the mud which these mossy waters deposit, that 
the cattle will sooner starve, than eat either the meadow hay or 
the straw, after being inundated. There are two lochs in this pa- 
rish, called the litttle and the great Black Lochs. The latter is the 
principal feeder of the reservoir formed on the lands of Auchin- 
gray, for supplying the Monkland Canal. There is another call* 
ed the EUrig Loch, lying to the north-east of the Annexation. 
There are perch and eel found in all the lochs,* and good sizeable 
trout in the Avon, many of which are annually destroyed, when 
the pools used for steeping lint are emptied into the Avon. 

Serf/.— The soil in the vale of the Avon yields chiefly excellent 
crops of meadow hay, and when not flooded proves wholesome and 
(kttening for cattle ; but the crops are often damaged by the rains 
which usually fall in time of cutting. As the grounds rise in re- 
gular ridges towards the south, they yield good crops of oats, some 
barley, and occasionally a little wheat. Some of the lands bring 
L«.2per acre, others L.1, 10s., others 15s., some 7s. 6d. per acre. 
The lands towards the western district of the parish, being of a 
black mossy nature, yield but indifferent crops, when the season 
happens to be wet and cold. The number of bolls from an acre 
in a favourable season, varies considerably. The best soils produce, 
at an average, 6 bolls, others 5 and 4, and even 3 an acre. The 
surface of the parish being undulating, and the ridges lying east 



276 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

and west, the rains and storm beat with great severity in the wii 
ter months, as these ridges are 600 feet and upwards above tkr:;, 
sea level at Grangemouth. Between most of these ridges, the- . 
is a considerable field of moss, under which is found nothing 
coarse sand, or a reddish till, which is very unfriendly to vege' 
tion. Towards the south and south-west of the parish, there 
several hundreds of acres, entirely moss, varying from three i 
twelve feet in depth, the substratum being chiefly sand, afforck. Sog 
no inducement to remove it The farms in the parish are ^n^ 
much better state of cultivation, than they were in fifteen f^an 
ago. The ploughing competitions in the spring have had a good 
effect in stimulating the young to industry, and to a higher improre- 
ment of their lands. Of latcT years, the resident heritors hare 
paid particular attention to their dairies, and in rearing young 
cattle, from the produce of which the tenant chiefly pays his rent. 
Though the iron plough be in general use in the parish, yet the 
old Scots plough seems to have the preference both in opening 
and making a wider furrow. 

II. — Civil History. 

Parochial Registers. — The oldest register of kirk-session com- 
mences 1681. There are several loose papers, apparently com- 
munion-rolls, bearing date 1635. 

Valuation and Rent — The valuation of the old parish in the 
cess books, is L.2d49, lis. 7d. Scots, and the rental in 1771 was 
estimated at L.80$M2, 6s., which is somewhat more than the pre- 
sent rental. The valuation of the Annexation is L.1066, 13s. Id. 
Scots, and the rental in that year was about L.l 147, 6s. which is 
about the present rental. There are 25 resident and 14 non-re- 
sident heritors, and in the annexation, 7 resident, and 5 non-re- 
sident heritors. The principal proprietors in the parish and An- 
nexation are, Mr Carrick Buchanan of Drumpellier; Mr Forbes 
of Callendar ; Carron Company, and Captain Fergusson ; Mr Wad- 
dell of Balquhatston ; Mr Ralston of Ellrig; Mr Taylor of South- 
field. They are all non-resident, with the exception of Mr Ralston 
and Mr Waddell. Some of these lands have been in the pos- 
session of the same families from the period when they were first 
feued. 

III. — POPULATIOIJ. 

Amount of population in 18()K . 9i^3 

1811, 99;J 

1821. 981 

183 J, JQya 



SLAMANAN. 277 

Number of families in the pariiih in 1831, . 212 

cbieliy eogaged in agriculture} 124 

trade, manufacture, or handicraft, . 68 

IV. — Industry. 
The raw produce of this parish varies with the seasons, very 
considerably. When the spring weather is favourable for sowing, 
and the months of June and July warm, so as to mature the crop 
in the month of September, the produce ampiy compensates the 
labour of the farmer ; but when frosts attack the corn, as they 
occasionally do in September, before it is ripe, the produce is very 
limited, and from that cause is rendered unfit for use. This was 
particularly so in the year 1836, and year 1838, when the corn 
in the poorer districts yielded only 7 or 8 pecks of meal, and that 
in the richer about 12 or 13 pecks per boll, after deducting the 
mill dues, which is a peck per both The average of four 
years prior to 1836 of the number of bolls of oats was about 
7570, and 180 bolls of barley of the Stirling new measure. The 
produce of the Annexation may amount to 2767 bolls of oats, 
and 120 bolls of barley. The quantity of potatoes raised in fa- 
vourable seasons, is very considerable. There are at least 3000 
bolls, including the annexation. The quantity of cabbages and 
turnips is very extensive ; but the produce is very irregular, from 
the nature of the climate, of which they who live in favoured dis- 
tricts can form but little conception. There were formerly very 
considerable crops of lint raised in the parish, and the quality was 
understood to be much finer than what is now raised. The reason 
assigned for this deterioration in quality, is that the ground for 
lint is over-Umed ; still the quantity sown is very considerable, 
and the return abundant in a good season. Several proprietors 
have set a spirited example to others, in dividing their lands, in 
draining, and enclosing them by many judicious belts of planting, 
so that in a few years their estates will attain a much higher state 
of cultivation. Mr Ralston of Glenellrig, who is a resident heritor, 
lias been at great pains in laying out the grounds in the vicinity of 
Iiis mansion house ; and the farm-steadings which he has lately 
erected on his estate may vie with any of the same class in the 
country both for neatness and convenience. Mr Waddell of Bal- 
quhatston has commenced to make similar improvements on his 
estate. Mr Storie of Baukhead has made a very great improve- 
ment on his estate, in draining, planting, and in laying out his 
fields. The great distance from the Bathgate and Cumber- 



278 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

nauld lime-works, and the indifferent roads, is a great obstnietic 
to the rapid improvement of this parish. 

V. — Parochial Economy, 
' Greater facilities will now be furnished for promoting the gei 

ral industry and prosperity of the parish, by means of the rail! 
passing obliquely through the parish. This railway branch 
verges from the Ballochnie near Stanrigg, about three and a 
miles to the north of Airdrie, and extends to the Union Canal 
Causeway end, and nearly three miles to the west of linlithg' 
a distance upwards of twelve miles. The railway enters the pa- 
rish at the junction of the counties of Lanark and Stirling, a lit- 
tic to the west of the farm of Lodge, and, intersecting it Bbout 
the centre, proceeds eastward till near Bankhead, by crossing the 
Avon water, the boundary of the parish, by an elegant new bridgei 
into that of the parish of Muiravonside in that direction. The 
length of railway in the parish of Slamanan is about three and two- 
third miles, which, at an average costing L. 10,000 per mile, gives 
about L.87,000 as the expenditure in the parish. Since the com- 
mencement of the railway, there have been different bores made 
on the lands of Balquhatston, for ascertaining the nature of the 
metals, and after a depth of 25 to SO fathoms and upwards, there 
have been found several seams of coal from 1 to 3 feet thick. A 
pit has lately been opened, and a steam engine erected by Messrs 
J. Russell of Leith, tacksmen of the coal ; and at the depth of 12 
fathoms have found a seam of good coal, 3 feet thick, with a free- 
stone roof. About twenty-five workmen are employed, and nearly 
fifty tons daily of coal are conveyed to market by the railway, the 
selling price being 4d. per cwt. on the hill. Other trials in dif- 
ferent districts of the parish have recently been made, and smithy- 
coal and abundance of fine freestone have been found. Over the 
whole of the parish as well as the Annexation, there is abundance 
of coal and ironstone, which is accounted valuable, yielding 33 
percent; and the Strathavon yields ironstone of 36 \}er cent, and 
coal 17 per cent., according to the analysis of Dr Hugh Colquhoun. 
The only going coal at present is on the lands of Balquhatston 
and the Lodge, and rents at L.25 annually. 

In this parish there are no villages, only three places where 
there are few houses, close by the church, Balcastle, and the other 
to the east of the parish, where two roads intersect each other, and 
gives to the village the name Cross Roads. The nearest market- 
towns are Falkirk and Airdrie. 



8I.AMANAN. 279 

Eederiastieal State. — The church was rebuilt in the year 1810, 
and its site is nearly central for the parish in general, and for the ac- 
commodation of the annexation. It contains upwards of 700 sitters. 
The manse is old, and bears the mark of being at least 150 years 
olcL It received an addition about forty-five years ago. The glebe 
consists of upwards of 13 acres arable, and 2 grass. The stipend 
amounts to L.247, 18s. and L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. 
Mr Waddell of Balquhatston, and Mr Ralston of Ellrig presented, 
three years ago, two very handsome communion cups for the use 
of the parish, in addition to two which were given by Messrs Mit- 
chell of Balmitchell ISO years ago. There are no other places 
of worship in the parish. The population is a church-going peo- 
ple, with very few Dissenters. 

Education. — There are two schools in the parish, the parochial 
and a private school. The branches of education taught in the 
parish school are, English, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, 
mensuration, Latin and Greek. The salary is the maximum, and 
there is a glebe of one acre attached to the school. The fees are 
from 2s. 6d. to 5s. per quarter. In the private or Eastcrdykehead 
school are taught the common branches, reading, writing, and 
arithmetic The school fees are dd. a week. The number of 
scholars at an average is about 45 in the winter season, but less 
in summer. 

Poor.— The number of poor persons who receive monthly charity 
are at an average from three to four, and the sum allotted varies ac- 
cording to circumstances. The three at present on the roll receive 
each 6s. 9d. per month. There are no public markets in the parish. 
And the fuel is most abundant, both of coal and excellent peat 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
There are few parishes where so little change has taken place 

since the last Statistical was drawn up, as in this parish. There 
have been no new roads, no public works, and no manufactures of 
any kind in the parish. Agriculture, however, has undergone a 
most decided improvement The railway being now finished, and 
a year nearly in operation, the minerals have become an object of 
acquisition, the parish will increase in population by the erection 
of villages, and thereby an additional stimulus will be given to agri- 
cultural pursuits. It woiild contribute greatly to the prosperity of 
the parish, if, in the act of boring, limestone could be found, as 
there must be limestone in the parish, from occasional stones 
being found in the different streamlets, and from a property in 



280 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

the south of the parish being called Limuridge. There 
abundance of freestone for building in the parish, and ex 
lent whin rock throughout the parish, and likewise in the 
nexation, from which most of the blocks for the railroad 
been furnished. Two years ago, a line of turnpike road from 
kirk to Airdrie was surveyed, but the nature of the ground 
render such an undertaking very expensive. The ready com; 
nication from east to west by the railway, will, in a great meascK j^^ 
supersede the necessity of a cross turnpike through the parish.. 

jDrawn up September 1839. 
Bevised May 1841. 




PARISH OF AIRTH. 

rilESBYTERY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV, JOHN MACGACHEN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — It is generally supposed that the word Airth is deriv- 
ed from the Gaelic ard or ardhij signifying a hill ; and if this 
supposition be correct, it furnishes strong grounds for the opinion, 
that the parish, which for the most part presents a complete level, 
owes its name to what is well known by the appellation of the 
Hill of Airth. 

Extent^ Sfc. — The extent of the parish, from north to south, 
may be estimated at fully 6^ miles in length ; and in breadth, 
from east to west, at about dj^ miles ; the whole comprehending 
a surface of 30 square miles. It is bounded on the north by the 
Forth ; on the east, by the same river and the parish of Both ken* 
nar ; on the south, by the parishes of Bothkennar and Larbert ; 
and on the west, by the parish of St Ninians. Its figure is some* 
what irregular, and may be considered as approximating nearer to 
a parallelogram than to any other. With the exception of the 
Hill of Airth, and the rising grounds of Dunmore Park, the pa- 
rish, as has been already hinted, forms an entire plain. And, al- 
though there are no records for enabling us to fix the precipe |^- 
riod, yet, from the strata of shells to be found at no great depth 
throughout the whole of the low grounds, it may be reasonably 



• T"» 



AIRTH. 281 

inferred that these once formed part of the bed of the river, and 
that vessels were to be seen spreading their white sails to the 
vriDd, where the husbandman now pursues his peaceful occupa- 
tions. The Hill of Airth is of a circular form, and may be com- 
puted in height at about 100 feet above low water*mark at spring 
tides* On its south-east extremity, stands Airth Castle, the seat 
of William Graham Stirling, Esq.; nor is it too much to say, 
that, from every part of it, the admirer of nature may luxuriate on 
scenes exquisitely picturesque and beautiful. The grounds of 
Dunmore Park, the seat of the Earl of Dunmore, may be reckoned 
at about 70 or 75 feet above low water-mark. They are richly 
wooded; and, together with the mansion-house, present an en- 
chanting prospect to the steam-boat traveller between Newhaven 
and Alloa. The sea coast, forming the boundary of the parish 
to the north and east, may be said to extend in length 8^ miles ; 
and though there are in a manner three harbours, Newmiln, Airth, 
and Dunmore, yet there are none of them sufficiently important to 
require particular notice. 

Hydrography, — There are several springs said to be medicinal; 
one of which is known by the name of the Lady Well ; a name 
which it is generally supposed to have received in times of Popery, 
from being used to furnish holy water for the abbacy, which is 
said to have then existed at Airth, in connection with Holyrood. 
The only river in the parish is one of no note, called the Pow. 
It takes its rise in the adjacent parish of St Ninians, and empties 
itself into the Forth, a little above Kincardine Ferry. It is cros- 
sed by several small bridges, one of which is still known by the 
name of the Abbey Town Bridge. 

Geology, — All the rocks in the parish are of the coal formation, 
and form a part of the great coal-field of Scotland. The line of 
dip varies. Next to the Forth, it is southerly ; but in the south 
part of the parish, it is towards the north-east, which is the gene- 
ral dip of the surrounding coal-fields. Veins and fissures cut 
across the strata, and have the effect of dislocating them ; thi1)w- 
ing the corresponding strata either up or down, accx)rding to the 
angle which the vein makes with the strata. The declination which 
the line of dip makes with the horizon, is generally about one foot 
in six. The rocks are sandstones, of various shades of yellow, 
grey, and approaching to white ; some of them of excessive hard- 
ness. Some of the beds are several fathoms thick. Argillaceous 
rock varies in thickness from an inch to two feet. This rock is 



262 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

geoerally the bed on which the coals rest, and is suitable for «Mk- 
ing fire-brick for furnaces. Sand and clay are variously mixed id 
these beds. Argillaceous ironstone is found in the argillaceous 
schistus in thin beds or bands of a few inches thick ; also in detadi- 
ed balls. This ironstone yields about 80 per cent of iron. The 
greater proportion of the parish is composed of alluvial deposits 
from the Forth ; the lower part of which is dark-coloured soft 
clay or sludge, in which are found varieties of sea-shells, corre- 
sponding with those which are found at Leith. All the soils lie 
on rocks of the coal formation. The only mines are those of coal ; 
but at present, there is no colliery establishment in the parish. 
There was an extensive one near the village of Dunmore, firom 
which coals were exported, both coastwise and over seas; but, being 
nearly exhausted, it was given up in the year 1811. It is said, 
and there is every reason to believe it to have been the case, that, 
at a very remote period, coals were wrought at no great distance 
from Airth Castle ; and it is supposed, that there is still a consi- 
derable quantity of coal to be found, both in the south and north- 
east parts of the parish. 

Zoology. — Badgers, not many years ago, were common in Dun- 
more Wood ; but they have now entirely disappeared. This fact 
is ascribed to an assault which certain mischievous individuals 
made upon them one night with dogs, whereby either the whole 
of them were destroyed, or such dreadful havoc made amongst 
them, that those which escaped the general carnage consulted 
their safety by flight. Certain it is, that the badger, once so com- 
mon, is now never to be seen. 

^Foo^^.— Various plantations, consisting of all kinds of hard- 
wood, larch, Scotch fir, birch, &c. have been made, chiefly on the 
grounds of Airth and Dunmore Park, all of which are in a thriv- 
ing condition. On the former of these grounds, the castle is sur- 
rounded by trees of every description, very majestic, and of very 
ancient date ; but the willow trees, which are scattered in all di- 
rections, deserve to be peculiarly noticed, as surpassing, both in 
stature and beauty, most of the same species to be found either in 
Scotland or England. Many more trees of the same sort have 
been planted by the present active proprietor, chiefly in hedge- 
rows ; by the rapid growth of which, in the course of a few years, the 
estate has been greatly beautified, and its value will be greatly 
cncreased. The trees of Dunmore Park are very numerous 
and valuable. The oak and beech trees especially are most 



AIRTH. 283 

tnagDificenly and, being profusely scattered throughout the park, 
iaipart to it an air of singular grandeur and beauty* There is 
likewise a wood of considerable extent, through which the prin- 
dpal approach to the mansion-house is made, abounding with all 
kinds of forest trees, many of them of stately dimensions ; amongst 
which, however, the beech and Scotch fir occupy a conspicuous 
place. Of the latter kind is one, close to the approach, so remark- 
able as to have attracted the attention of an eminent London ar- 
tist, who has given it a place in a set of engravings of the most 
striking trees to be found in Scotland, lately published. On 
measurement, it was found to contain, excluding all limbs not six 
inches in the side, 290 cubic feet. 

11. — Civil History. 

As an historical incident of some importance, it may be men- 
tioned, that, in 1817, when cutting the present line of road which 
leads from Airth to Stirling, the workmen came on the skeleton 
of a whale. The skeleton was found to the north of the mansion- 
house of Dunmore Park, and upwards of a quarter of a mile from 
the bank of the river. It was traced to the extent of 75 feet. 

Landrowners. — The chief land-owners of the parish are. The 
Carl of Dunmore ; William Graham Stirling, Esq. of Airth ; Sir 
A. Maitland Gibson of Kersie; James Bruce, Esq. of Powfoulis; 
John Bum Murdoch, Esq. of- Newck, &c 

Parochial Registers. — There is a register of births, deaths, and 
marriages from 16th September 1660, to 9th November 1669. 
From this date there is none till 15th February 1670, when it 
^Igain commences, and is carried on to 4th September 1720, when 
there is another blank down to 4th July 1732; from which period, 
it is continued, with tolerable accuracy, down to the present. 

Modern Buildings. — The principal modem buildings in the 
parish are, an elegant front addition to Airth Castle, the man- 
sion-house of Dunmore Park, beautiiiilly finished, and of Gothic 
architecture; the houses of Newck and Powfoulis; the church, 
a very handsome little structure, containing accommodation for 
800 sitters ; and the manse, seated on a rising ground at a little 
distance from the village. All of these tend not a little to adorn 
the scenery on the south banks of the Forth, between Kincardine 
and Alloa. 

III. — Population. 
The population of the parish has decreased considerably, with- 
in the last thirty years, from two causes, viz. from the common 



284 STIRLINGSIIIRR. 

practice of throwing two or three small farms into one ; but chiefly, 
from the Dunmore colliery having been given up. There are two 
villages, Airth and Dunmore. The population of the former is 
850 ; and of the latter, 246. Population in the country, 754. 

Average of births for the last seTen years, dO 

deaths, ... 29 

marriages, .12 

Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, 75 

women upwards of 45 years of age, . IVo 

Average number of children in each femily, . . 4 

One nobleman is resident in the parish, viz. the Earl of Dunmore, 
and three or four families of independent fortune. By far the 
greater proportion of heritors are non-resident Proprietors of land 
in the parish, of the yearly average of L.50 and upwards, are thir- 
teen in number. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture, — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, 
in the parish, is 16,400, almost constantly in tillage. Saving the Duo- 
more parks, extending to about 200 acres, and the lawn surround- 
ing Airth Castle, consisting of 70 acres, there is little or do pas- 
ture. There are between 800 and 400 acres of moss, some of it 
to the depth of 16 feet, covering ground of most excellent qua- 
lity. Part of the moss is covered with a thriving plantation, 
whilst by far the greater part of it is in the hands of tenants, or, 
as they are called. Moss Lairds, who, by dint of hard labour, are 
gradually removing it. They are paid for the land when cleared 
at the rate of L. 24 per imperial acre; whilst the land so cleared, 
is measured off once every four years, and a rent exacted for it, 
amounting to about L. 2 per acre. The number of acres under 
wood in the parish may be estimated at about 160. All kinds of 
hard-wood are planted, and every attention is paid to thinning, 
felling, pruning, &c. 

Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land, per imperial 
acre, is about L.3. 

Wagesy 4'<?.— Farm-servants receive from L.7 to L.IO in the hah 
year, with board ; women employed in several departments of 
farm labour, from L.2, 10s. to L.d, with board ; labourers, 10s. per 
week, summer aud winter. A cart thoroughly finished costs L.10, 
a plough, L.3, 3<. ; a pair of harrows, L.I. Mason's wages per 
day are 2s. 6d. ; a carpenter's the same ; a smith's, 3s. 

Husbandry, — The general character of the husbandry has been 
very much improved ; and now, it may, without exaggeration, be 
aid to equal that of any other part of Scotland. No less than 150 



AIIITH. 285 

imperial acres have been added to the Dunmore estate, by land 
taken from the sea, within the last Bfty years; and to the Airth 
estate no fewer than 185, within little more than the same period. 
The land is of the very first quality. The embankments by which 
it is defended from the water, are composed of mud and turf, 
some of them with stone facings. Draining, particularly wedge- 
draining, has been carried on to a very great extent, more than 
one-half of the parish having been so drained, within the last ten 
years. This, in Carse land, may be considered the very basis of 
agricultural improvement. The expense is considerable, but the 
tenant is assisted by the proprietor. 

The general duration of leases is nineteen years. Farm-build- 
ings are, upon the whole, indiiferent. 

Quarries, — There is abundance of sandstone quarries ; nothing 
peculiar in the mode of working them. 

Fishery. — No fishery in the piirish of any importance. The 
salmon-fishing, however, such as it is, and which is carried on by 
means of staff-nets, commences in the month of July, and termi- 
nates at the period prescribed by the Act of Parliament. A small 
rent is exacted by the proprietors, and the produce is either sold 
to the neighbouring families, or conveyed by the steam-boats, to 
the Edinburgh market. 

Produce. — The average produce of grain of all kinds, may be 
estimated at about 6 bolls per imperial acre. The culture of po- 
tatoes, turnips, cabbages, &c. in the fields, is exceedingly limited. 
The average crop of hay per imperial acre is 200 stone. Produce of 
gardens and orchards is, in general, very abundant. The thinning 
of the plantations rarely amounts to more than what is required 
for paling. Total yearly value of raw produce raised in the parish 
is about L. 1 00,000. 

Weaving is the only species of manufacture carried on, and that 
to a small extent. 

There are only five registered vessels belonging to the parish. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market'Town, Sfc. — Falkirk is the nearest market-town, distant 
six miles. There are two villages, Airth and Dunmore. The 
length of the turnpike roads in the parish, is about eight miles. 
Two public carriages pass through the parish to Glasgow, viz. the 
Alloa coach daily, and the Kirkcaldy coach, three times a week. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is 
centrical, being about three miles and a half distant from the 



28G STIRLINGSIURE. 

northern extremity of the parish, and nearly as much from the 
southern. It was first opened for public worship on 20th Febru- 
ary 1820, and consequently it is in excellent repair. It is built 
for the accommodation of 800 individuals. The sittings are all 
free, the tenants being accommodated by their respective land- 
lords, and about 60 sittings set apart for the poor. The manse 
was finished in 1815. The glebe, including the site of the manse 
and garden, is upwards of 10 acres in extent. The stipend is 18 
chalders of victual, half barley, half meal, payable by the highest 
fiars of the county ; and L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. 

There is a Burgher meeting-house in the parish. The minis- 
ter is paid from the seat rents and collections. Stipend allowed, 
about L.100. 

The number of families attending the Established Church may 
be estimated at 300 ; number of individuals, exclusive of children, 
1350. Families attending meeting-house about 90; individuals 
above twelve years of age, 201. Average number of communi- 
cants in the Establishment, 400. 

There are Societies in the parish for religious purposes, and 
the amount of their contributions may average L.20 per annum. 

Education. — There are the parish school, and two unendowed 
schools. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is the maxi- 
mum ; the fees, 3s. for reading per quarter ; ds. 6d. for reading 
and writing ; 4$. for arithmetic ; 6s. for Latin ; and one guinea for 
a course of book-keeping. The schoolmaster has an excellent 
house, neatly built, and containing far more than the legal accom- 
modation. The general expense of education may be stated to be 
from 10s. to 20s. per annum. There are few or none above fifteen 
years of age who cannot both read and write. The people in ge- 
neral feel the benefits of education. The parish school is conve- 
niently situated for all. 

Ltihrary. — There is a circulating library. 

Societies. — Two friendly Societies have been established — the 
one, denominated the Weaver's Society, having been in existence 
upwards of fifty years, and chiefly designed to defray the expenses 
incurred, when a death takes place in any family connected with 
it ; and the other, the Dead-fund Society, established for a simi- 
lar purpose. 

Savings' Bank, — A Savings' Bank for the parish and vicinity was 
established in 1821. The sums invested yearly have amounted 
to L. 100 or L. 150; and the sums withdrawn, to about L. 50, 



AIRTH. 287 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are upwards of 30 persons 
iwho receive parochial aid, at the rate of about Is. per week, and 
upwards of 40 who receive it occasionally. The annual amount 
of collections made for their relief at the church door, including 
an extraordinary collection made on the first Sabbath of the year, 
may amount to about L. 40 ; and to this sum is added, for the 
same purpose, the interest of L. 360, bequeathed by different in« 
dividuals* There is, besides, an annual assessment laid upon the 
heritors, amounting to upwards of L. 50. Out of these funds, 
however, are paid precentor's salary, beadle's salary, salary of sy- 
nod-clerk, presbytery-clerk, presbytery-oiBcer, and session-clerk. 
It rarely happens that any indisposition to receive parochial aid is 
manifested. 

Fairs. — There is an annual fair on the last Tuesday of July, 
chiefly for the purpose of hiring shearers. 

Alehouses. — There are 10 or 11 alehouses in the parish, and 
there is every reason to suppose that they tend to injure the mo- 
rals of the people. 

Fuel, — Abundance of coal is obtained at a few miles distance, 
which sells at 7s. 4d. and 9s. 4d. per ton. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The most striking variations betwixt the present state of the pa- 
rish, and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Ac- 
count, are, — the decrease of the population, which was then rec- 
koned at 2350, and now at 1850; the number of buildings which 
have been completed ; the immense improvements which have been 
made in agriculture; and the improvements, scarcely inferior, 
iwhich have been made on the state of the roads. The system 
of husbandry vies, in point of excellence, with what is carried 
on in any district of Scotland, so that, in this respect, the parish 
may be considered as not susceptible of improvement. 

Revised April 1841. 



PARISH OF BALFRON. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AY'^Srf*' 

THE REV. ALEXANDER NIVEN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The name of this parish may, from its etymol^^*^. 
mean the Town on the Burns^ or the Town of Mourning. In 

the former case, the name is descriptive of its locahty ; — the ^^i 
ginal clachan or town being situate at the confluence of two ^^- 
considerable streams. In the latter case, the parish may be sU/>* 
posed to take its name from an event of rather an interesting cB^* 
racter, and which forms a part of its traditionary history. On one 
occasion, it is said, when the aborigines had gone to a little dis- 
tance to attend on their religious rites, they left their children in 
their tents. On their return, they discovered, to their horror, that 
they had been all destroyed by the wolves which infested this part 
of the country, in common with other districts in Scotland at tins 
period ; and hence, ever after, the place was called the town of 
** weeping or mourning.''' Which of the two derivations is the 
more correct one, we leave to the curious to determine; — non 
nostrum est tantas componere Utes. 

Extent^ Boundaries^ Sfc. — The parish runs very nearly east and 
west ; is about 1 1 miles in length ; and 3 in breadth ; bounded on 
the east and south-east, by Gargunnock and Fintray ; on the 
south and north-west, by Killearn and Drymen ; and on the north 
and north-east, by Drymen and Kippen. The clachan, once the 
chief point in the parish, is about fifteen miles due west of Stirling, 
the county town, though by the circuitous road it is considerably 
farther distant. It is almost equally distant from Dumbarton, the 
seat of the presbytery, and Glasgow, the access to which towns 
is by well-made and well-kept roads, though the original lines are 
far from being those which engineers of the present school would 
adopt. The clachan, at one time, was, as has been already said, 
the chief, if not the only point of attraction. It still deserves pre- 



BALFRON. 269 

eminence ; for here, the parish church still stands, surrounded by 
the burial-yard, always an object of deep interest to the popula- 
tion. Here, also, is the smithy^ —and the old oak tree, of fourteen 
feet in circumference, in the very heart of the clachan, in which 
were Gxed the jougs of the parish, But, alas ! the glory of tho 
clachan has past away. It is now shorn of its importance by its 
immediate neighbour, the new village of Balfron, which sprunginto 
existence with the introduction of manufactures, about sixty years 
ago. This is now the principal village in the western district of 
Stirlingshire, is built on a gentle declivity, with a southern exposure, 
sloping gradually to the river Endrick. The situation is command- 
ing, and extremely beautiful. In the immediate foreground, you 
havetherich valley of the Endrick, with the river meanderingthrough 
the well-grown and richly diversified plantations of Ballikinrain and 
others; bounded by a well-defined ridge of hills, known by the 
name of the Lennox Fells, and which here rise to an elevation of 
1500 feet above the level of the sea. In the greater distance 
are the Grampians bounding the view ; amongst which, Ben- 
lediy Benvoirlich, Benvenue, Benmore, and Bcnlomond, with the 
more distant mountains of Cowal, in Argyleshire, form grand and 
conspicuous objects. The village is neatly built, and being kept 
clean and white, is at all times an object of interest to the travel- 
ler or visitor. 

Hydrography. — Our only river is the water of Endrick, which 
rises ip the parish of St Ninians, and after fertilizing and beau- 
tifying the parishes of Fintray, Balfron, Killearn, Drymen, and 
Kilmaronock, at length is lost in the waters of Lochlomond, tho 
Queen of British lakes. It is a clear running and beautifully wind- 
ing stream, and, though well-wooded on its margin in general, 
there is nothing to prevent the angler from following his sport ; 
and richly is he rewarded by full creels of those deliciously flavour- 
ed trout in which it abounds. 

Geology. — Abundance of limestone there is in the parish, but 
from want of coal it has never been turned to any profitable account. 
It is said, however, that coal formations do exist in the parish, and, 
perhaps, the appearance of newest floetz -trap and basalt may ren- 
der the sUitement not improbable ; but certain it is, that any ex- 
periments upon what have been supposed to be the likeliest situa- 
tion for coal deposits, have proved hitherto unsuccessful. 

II. — Civil History. 

Balfron originally belonged to the once powerful fiimily of Drum- 

STIRLING. T 



290 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

mond, who, along with if, held in their own right the lands of the 
barony of Drummond proper, known now by the name of Dry- 
men. They also were the proprietors of Roseneath^ Auchendown, 
and Cardross in Monteith. Balfron was given to the youngest 
brother of the chief " Malcolm Big." How or when it passed 
from their hands, we have not been able to discover. The lands 
of the parish are now parcelled out amongst many proprietors or 
heritors, all of whom are, with one or two exceptions, unfortunately 
for the best interests of the parish, non- resident. 

Historical Notices, — In connection with this parish there are, 
doubtless, many occurrences worthy of being noticed here. For 
brevity, however, we select only the two following ; the first af* 
fords the last instance that wc are aware of, of abduction being pu- 
nished capitally in Scotland; and the second is a tradition in op- 
position to what is generally supposed to have been the case by 
the historians of the time. Firsts it was from Edinbelly, in this 
parish, that Rob Roy, Junior, abducted Jean Kay or Wright; 
and for which he suffered the last penalty of the law at Edinburgh.^ 
Jean Kay, whom Rob abducted, was the heiress of Edinbelly, and 
though not quite fifteen years of age, was the widow of Mr Wrigh 
of Wright's Park. She is described as being interesting enou 
in her appearance, and rather of a comely countenance. On 
evening, a very few weeks after Mr W^right's death, Rob, wit 
a party qf fifteen Highlanders, landed unexpectedly at Edinbell 
and carried the young widow off to his retreat in the Highlands 
In process of time he was pursued, taken, convicted, and execut 
for the crime. Second^ it was at Clockburn, in this parish, accord^ 
ing to a very common tradition, that the assassins of Archbisho 
Sharp first drew bridle, after the murder of that prelate i rJ 
Magus Moor, in Fifeshire, on 3d May 1679. The distance tra- 
velled could not have been less than seventy or eighty miles. 
A solitary tree now marks the spot where, at the time referred to, 
the house and offices of a small farm stood, and which afforded 
the accommodation which men and horses required. Without 
pretending to say how much credit should be attached to this tra- 
dition, we may be allowed to state, that there is some presumption 
of its truth, from the fact, that one of the conspirators, Balfour of 
Burly, died at Rosencath, under the protection of his kinsman Ar- 
gyle ; and that the spot where the halt was made in this parish \s 
in the direct route, or what may have been supposed to have been 
so, from Magus Moor to that place. 





BALFRON. 291 

Eminent Men. — The first to be noticed is Alexander, fifth Earl 
of Glencairn. ^' There is hardly," says Chambers, ^^ any patriotic 
name in Scottish history entitled to more of the credit of a firm and 
zealous pursuit of liberty, than Alexander, fifth Earl of Glencairn/' 
The friend, the associate, and the protector of Knox, he has well 
earned this character. In all the struggles by which Scotland 
was distinguished for civil and for religious liberty, from 1554 
till 1574, when Glencairn died, he took an active and prominent 
part, and of this every reader of Scottish history is aware. 

The next distinguished person connected with this parish, is the 
Inventor of Logarithms, Napier of Edinbelly and of Merchis- 
ton ; to whom, in the opinion of Hume the historian, the title 
of a great man is more justly due than to any other which his 
country ever produced. He was born in the year 1550, and in 
the year 1617 he died, at Merchiston Castle, in the neighbour^ 
hood of Edinburgh. Of this latter fact there is, we believe, little 
doubt; but as to the place of his birth, this is involved in some ob- 
scurity, there being little else to guide us on this point than the 
tradition of the country ; and upon this Balfron, in common with 
some other parishes, lays claim to having been the birth-place T>f 
this great man. It is quite certain that Edinbelly, in this parish, 
did beloqg to the Napiers, for many years ; that the same family 
became the proprietors of Culcreuch ; and that Sir William Na- 
pier of Milliken, as the representative of the Napiers of Cul- 
creuch, was, in Edinburgh, in 1818, served heir and lineal repre- 
sentative of John Napier, the Inventor of the Logarithms. Thus 
the two families are identified, namely, the Culcreuch Napiars, and 
the Edinbelly Napiers. Now, we believe that John Napier was born 
in Edinbelly, and not at Drumbeg, as is occasionally alleged; be- 
caHse, though the Napiers had property in Dry men parish, still 
there was no house on the property which could be supposed a man- 
sion suitable to the consequence of the fiimily. Drumbeg, the spot 
which local tradition assigns, is mentioned by authors as ^^ an ob* 
scure spot" In point of fact, it is a very common thatched farm- 
house, whereas the remains of the mansion-house of Edinbelly, in 
Balfron parish, are still in existence ; and the arms of the family 
are yet to be seen on the wall of what was part of the original 
house. This of itself is a circumstance which marks the charac- 
ter of the mansion, and assigns the status of the owner. But 
there is another circumstance in connection with this matter, that 
ought not to be forgotten. In the year 1593, we find Napier 



292 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

publishing his Exposition on the Revelations; and in his pre&ce 
addressed to the King, he shows very strongly his adherence to the 
strict Presbyterian principles of the time, his preference to which 
may be traced very naturally to his intimacy with the 6fth Earl of 
Glencairn, whose seat, Ballindalloch, was within a mile and a-half 
of Ediobelly, the residence of his boyhood, if not his birth-place. 
Otherwise, it is difficult to account for Napier's predilection for 
these principles, seeing that the bias of his mind might naturally 
have been to the other side, when it is remembered that his father 
was Master of the Mint, to one who had no great partiality to 
the Presbyterian party. When it is stated besides, that, upon 
the Edinbelly property, not many years ago, there was a monu- 
ment standing, raised to the memory of this great man in ac- 
cordance with the tradition, which assigned this property as his 
birth-place, we are inclined to believe that, though at Gart- 
ness and Drumbeg he may have resided, yet at Edinbelly the 
Inventor of the logarithms lirst saw the light. Edinbelly, the 
place in question, is, at present, the property of the much respected 
and deservedly esteemed Robert Dunmore Napier, Esq. of Balli* 
kin rain. 

Parochial Registers. — The 6rst date of the parochial register 
is 1691, when the first proclamation of banns in order to marriage 
is inserted. The first registration of baptisms is in 1687. From 
that time till the present, the register of baptisms has been very 
irregularly kept. From the year 1825 downwards, to the present 
year, with a few exceptions, the records of session have been re- 
gular y kept. 

Manufactures. — Previous to the year 1780, this parish was, strictly 
speaking, rural. Agricullural pursuits occupied the population, if 
a population could be really said to be occupied, who were of ne- 
cesFity compelled, from the low state of agricultural pursuits, to 
pass fully the half of their time in idleness. But in the year 1780 
a very material change took place in the parish, by the establish- 
ment of an agency for manufacturing calicoes, under the influ- 
ence and patronage of a very enterprising and intelligent man, — 
the late Mr Dunmore of Ballindalloch and Ballikmrain, in whom 
were united the activity of the country gentleman and the li- 
berality of the merchant ; and to whom this part of the country 
is mdebted lor many valuable improvements, of which certainly 
not the least are its high-roads. The calico establishment, how- 
ever, did not turn out very satisfactorily; Mr Dunmore, therefore, 



BALFRON. 293 

formed a connection with the Buchanans of Carstone in Killearn 
parish, who had just then built the Deanston Cotton Works, 
near Doune, in Perthshire ; and with these gentlemen, in the year 
1789, he built the cotton-mill in this parish, known in trade by 
the Ballindalloch Cotton Works. Mr Archibald Buchanan, the 
younger of the two enterprising and ingenious brothers, the part- 
ners of Mr Dunmore, had been taught the practical parts of 
cotton-spinning at Cromford in Derby, under the well known 
Arkwright, the original inventor of cotton-spinning by means of 
machinery. In the year 1789, cotton-spinning was, under this 
company, introduced into this parish, and from that time, down to 
the year 1793^ was successfully carried on by them. But in the 
year 1783^ Messrs James and Archibald Buchanan transferred 
the property to Messrs James Finlay and Company, merchants, 
Glasgow, who still continue to be proprietors, and who, at their 
several works at Deanston, Catrine, and Balfron, give constant 
employment to 2500 hands. The works at Balfron are driven by a 
stream from the Endrick, which, in dry seasons, is kept nearly uniform 
by water from a reservoir of 33 Scotch acres, constructed about thirty 
years ago, in Dundaff Moor, oneof the oldest estatesof the Montrose 
family, and contiguous-to the ruins of the castle of Sir John De 
Graham, the friend of Wallace. This stream falls on a water- 
vihee\ of almost 30 horse power, which drives 1*2,000 mule spindles 
with their preparations. Two hundred and fifty-eight hands or 
thereby, and these chiefly females, are now employed at the 
works. It is understood to be the first cotton work in Scotland 
at least, in which female spinners were exclusively employed. 

IVaffes. — The company pay weekly, and generally on a Thursday, 
the wages due to their workers. These vary for spinners, from 10s. 
to 13s. per week ; and for piccers from 2s. to 4s. according to the 
work done. These wages are apparently low, and are certainly 
much lower than are paid for the same quantity of work done in 
Glasgow, where a spinner is paid from 23s. to 30s. per week. 
Perhaps the difference is not easily accounted for. Provisions of 
all sorts are much the same here as in town ; dress much the 
same. The hours for working are just as long. The only thing 
which certainly is lower, is house rent ; but we are far from being 
sure that this will make up for the difference in wages. Origi- 
nally, there were employed at this mill, 400 persons, young and 
old. The difference in point of numbers can be readily accounted 
for, by the improvements introduced into machinery. For ex- 



294 STIBLINGSHIRE. 

ample^ in 1792, there were in what is termed a " pass," four mew, 
each having two piecers, that is to say, twelve persons in alU Now, 
one woman spins in one pass with the assistance of three piecers, 
that is four persons in all wliat the twelve originally did. In point 
of numbers, the reduction will be still greater, if the self-acting 
jennies are as successful as they promise in the meantime to be* 
One woman by herself, with one of these, is able to spin as much 
as four with the jennies in common use ; and for this inven- 
tion is the cotton trade indebted, if we are not misinformed, to 
James Smith, Esq. of Deanston, so well known as the ingenious 
author of many important discoveries in various branches of science. 
It ought to be stated, that the workers here are in general healthy ; 
they are clean and ^^ tidy'* in their appearance, which, may no 
doubt, contribute to this. In point of morality, the mill populatiou 
may bear comparison with any of the same rank in any of the pa- 
rishes adjoining; and to several of the mill girls, is the writer of this 
indebted for kind and efficient assistance in teaching a Sabbath, 
school. 

In the year 1792, Messrs John Monteith and Company, of 
Glasgow, established and carried on for several years an extensive 
printing-work ; but it was found to be too distant from coal to be 
conducted with advantage. It was therefore abandoned. The site 
and property were purchased by the j)roprietors of the cotton works, 
Messrs James Finlay and Company, and have not been again turned 
by them to any manufacturing purpose. The great proportion of our 
village population are occupied with, and dependent upon, hand- 
loom weaving; there being in Balfron village between 300 and 400 
looms. The character of the work done here is what is known by 
light jaconets and lawns, in numbers varying from 900 to 1600, and 
harnesses, by which are meant fancy dresses and shawl patterns of 
all sorts. Our hand-loom weavers are, like the otliers throughout 
the kingdom, a sadly depressed class of artisans. Tliere may be 
no doubt amongst them, here as elsewhere, the idle and the worth- 
less ; but, taking them as a body, they are an industrious hard- 
working class, "^rhey toil at wliat is termed lon^ honrsj and long 
enough these are, being from 6 a. m., or even earlier, to 8 p. m., 
and even later; and yet they are only able to earn a miserable 
pittance ; the average of their wages, after deducting expense 
♦>f carrifige, light, shop rent, and agency, not being 6s. per week. 
What becomes of the family in limes of sickness ? and to what a 
state of misery it may frequently be reduced, may be conceived. 



BALPRON. 295 

As to the poor hand-loom weaver giving an education to his chil< 
dren, even in the most common way, the thing is impossible, — 
thankful is he, if he can provide their daily food and give them 
clothing. Why, it is asked, do parents bring up their children to 
such misery, by encouraging them to follow a trade which is so 
very much overdone, and which entails upon them a certain un- 
avoidable suffering ? The answer is obvious. The very effect of 
this misery now operates as a cause, under which the unhappy pa- 
rent is compelled to have recourse to the dire expedient of getting 
assistance from his child* No sooner are its hands ready (or the 
shuttle, it matters not whatmaybe the sex, — the poor child is placed 
upon the loom, there to " eik" out, by its Is. 6d. or 2s. per week, 
the pittance of the half-starved parent. He would prefer, no doubt, 
to send his child to the school, there to learn those acquirements 
which may adapt both body and mind to after toil. But the temp- 
tatioo is too much to be withstood. He grasps at the little help 
which the child can give ; and even with a heavy heart puts him 
to the trade which he teaches himself. No apprentice fee is re- 
quired ; and all that is made, however little, goes to the assistance 
of the family. Any one who attends to these circumstances will 
be at no loss to see how, from year to year, and from generation 
to generation, misery is handed down and perpetuated. 

Nor can any one who knows the circumstances of the weavers, 
be astonished that there should be discontent at times among them. 
Our wonder is, that there is so little, more especially when they 
have so little opportunity for moral and religious training. It is 
no easy matter, we are aware, to say what the Legislature should 
do. But, the subject is well worthy the attention of philanthro- 
pists ; and, in the name of thousands of our suffering countrymen, 
we cannot help wishing, that some remedy were speedily intro* 
duced to alleviate sufferings and privations, which, we are satisfied, 
have no parallel in ourChristian land. 

in. — Population. 
The number of the present population of the whole parish is 

2057 ; and there has been no increase for several years. Of 
these about 1700 are in the village. The number of proprie- 
tors having land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards is 16. 
Scarcely any of these can be properly said to.be resident in the 
parish, and of all the evils which can be inflicted upon a parish, 
none can be more ruinous than a non-residing proprietary. 

Land' owners, — The names of the present proprietors are. 



296 STIRLING6HIRK. 

Mr Spiers of Elderslie ; Mf Campbell of Boqufaan ; Mr Kay of 
Wright's Park; Mr Spiers, present proprietor of Culcreiich; 
Mr Galbraith of Balgair ; Mr Napier of Ballikinrain ; Commis- 
sary-General Dunmore of Kilfasset; Mr James Campbell, me^ 
cliantj Glasgow ; Mr Samuel Cooper of Smithston and Balliadal- 
loch: Mr Patrick Neilson of Camoquhill, merchant, Glasgow; 
Mr Alexander Neilson, part of Camoquhill, writer, Port- Glas- 
gow ; Mr Pollock of Camoqiihill ; Rev. Dr Graham of BalfuD- 
ning and Indians ; Dr Blair of Ibut ; and the Trustees of the late 
James Morrison, with other smaller portioners. 

Habits^ 4c. — It must be confessed that killing game witliouta 
license is very prevalent. The general habits of the populatioD 
may be stated to be cleanly. It is quite impossible to view a wear- 
ing population, such as ours, notwithstanding all their disadvanta- 
ges, and not be struck with their intelligence. The knowledge 
which they exhibit, and their acquaintance with certain subjects, is 
indeed astonishing. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — There are in the parish above 14,080 acres; of 
these 3320 are in a state of culture ; 105 are planted; the rest is 
in pasture or in waste. 500 acres might very easily, and with a 
proper application of capital, be added to the cultivated land, the 
average rent of which is about L.1 per acre; and great additions 
might likewise be made to the plantations within the parish, and 
which, if judiciously done, would certainly improve both the cli- 
mate and the shelter. 

Leases. — With the exception of two estates, namely, Balgair 
and a part of Gartmore, which are managed by judicial factors, who 
reside in Edinburgh, the leases generally run for nineteen years. 
On these two estates, the leases are only five or seven years. 
This certainly cannot be to the advantage either of tenant or land- 
lord. 

The farms in the parish are generally small, — the rents of one 
or two being L.1 50 per annum ; but in general, they run from L.30 
to L.1 00. The farmers are as industrious as need be; but, from 
the general size of the farms, and, above all, from the want of re- 
siding proprietors, it must be regretted that there is not that en- 
couragement given to men of capital, skill, and enterprise, which 
we notice in other districts of the countrv. 

Rent. — The rent for grazing a milk cow varies from L.2 to L.5, 
according to the pasture. 



BALFRON. 297 

Wages, — The rate of wages is from L,6 to L.12 and L.14per 
innum, according to age and other circumstances, the farm- 
servants having, besides, the common allowance of milk and meal, if 
not resident in the house. Good dairy-maids have L.5 in the 
half-year. A day-labourer's wages is Is. 6d. a day in summer, 
less in winter ; a mason and carpenter's are 2s. 6d. per day. 

Live-stock. — The breed of sheep and cattle has been greatly 
improved, particularly the latter, under the patronage of the Strath- 
Endrick Agricultural Club, one of the oldest, and one of the best 
district Associations with which we happen to be acquainted, 
formed originally at the suggestion of His Grace the late Duke 
of Montrose, who, as long as he lived, from the date of its for- 
mation, took an active interest in its success. It is still warmly 
patronized by the present Duke, and its members are landlords 
and tenants connected with the western district of Stirlingshire and 
Dumbarton ; by whose liberal subscriptions, premiums to a very 
great amount are annually distributed. Under their influence, 
stock of all kinds, more particularly the dairy stock, is wonderfully 
improved. For the dairy, the Ayrshire breed of cattle is generally 
])referred. In this class, many of the farmers in this district have 
been enabled successfully to compete with the most distinguished 
breeders of the south. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

In our village there is every convenience which bankers, bakers, 
butchers, grocers, and haberdashers can supply, with a proportion- 
il number of tailors, shoemakers, blacksmiths, and carpenters; 
inost of the shops are lighted with gas, an abundant supply of which 
ihere is from the cotton-works. Our chief intercourse is with 
Glasgow ; and daily is the communication by carriers, and by a 
light and comfortable four-horse coach. The post arrives and de- 
j)arts also every day. The length of the turnpike roads within the 
|)arish does not exceed four miles. 

Ecclesiastical State. — In 1832, it was found necessary to rebuild 
:he parish church. In 1833, it was opened for public worship, 
ind is seated for 700. None of the seats are let. It is commo- 
lious enough, and is in all respects built according to the inten- 
tion of the resolution, ^* that no ornamental work be permitted, 
md that every possible expense, consistent with the security of the 
fitters, should be avoided." The expense of building and Bnishing 
his fabric, including plans and specifications, was, in all, L.930. 
The Earl of Kinnoul is patron of the living, as proprietor of an 



298 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

old abbey in Perthshire. Connected with the establishment, there 
is a female Society for the advancement of religious purposes, 
which was founded in the year 1834. In order to enable the 
children to attend the Sabbath school under the superintendence 
of this society, and the house of God, many of the children, in- 
deed the greater part of them, receive clothing from this Society, 
who at the same time very liberally meet in this respect the wanls 
of the aged and destitute. In connection with the Society, there 
is a library of above 150 volumes, which have been in extensire 
circulation, and which, under the divine blessing, we trust, have 
proved beneficial to many in the parish. For the encouragemeot 
of all who may be engaged in Sabbath school teaching, or who 
may take an interest in their working, it will be gratifying to be 
told, that the effects of Sabbath school teaching in Balfron have 
been delightfully apparent; and that these teachers, both male 
and female, are either weavers or cotton-spinners. They are of 
the same rank with those children amongst whom they labour so 
cheerfully and so effectively ; and have been bred up to teaching 
by their attendance upon a week-day class for religious instructioD, 
taught by the present minister of the parish, and which has been 
in operation from 1826, and from which many delightful youog 
people have, from time to time, gone forth. 

The parish church is situated very nearly at one extremity of 
the parish, convenient enough for the great bulk of the populalion 
residing in the village, but too far removed from the eastern part 
to allow the population of that quarter the full benefit of public 
ordinances. In some degree to make up for this, the minister of 
the parish preaches once every six weeks in summer at the school- 
house of Lernock, about five miles to the east of the present pa- 
rish church. In winter, he does this once a quarter. He goes to 
this place in summer, after having had regular service in the church. 
In winter, he is reluctantly obliged to leave his church vacant. 
Public worship is well attended in the summer half year. In the 
cold months of winter, neither weavers nor cottun-spinners are 
able to- stcind the cold of the church ; and hence, durino- these 
months, the attendance is not so numerous. 

The number of communicants in connection with the Establish- 
ment, is upwards of 400, and they are gradually increasing. The 
manse was built about forty years ago, at a cost of somethin<r un- 
der L.300 ; originally a poorly built and ill-finished house. The 
heritors have in consequence been frequently called upon to repair 



BALFKON. 299 

it at considerable expeose. There are 17 acres of glebe, and the 
living is one of the small ones, a considerable portion of the sti- 
pend being made up from the Exchequer. 

There are in the parish three dissenting places of worship, 

namely, Relief, United Secession, and Burgher. The latter have 

bad no fixed minister for many years. The congregations of the 

former pay their ministers' stipends, which are said to be about 

L.80 per annum. 

Education. — We have in the parish in all four schools ; Jtrst^ 
the parish school, the master of which has the minimum salary, 
and^ we fear, the fees or wages are ill paid even by the few who 
are attending; second^ a school, the master of which receives L. 10 
|>er annum, as a subscription from the heritors. It is for the con- 
venience of the eastern part of the parish. There is a school- room 
and master's bouse, both built by subscription. The third is a 
school in the village of Balfron, the master of which is entirely 
dependent upon the school wages, paying a rent for the school- 
room; and \\ie fourth is a school belonging to, and in connection 
with, the cotton-works. The master of this receives a salary and 
accommodation from the mill company. Ostensibly, at least, in 
all these schools, the usual branches are taught The people, in 
general, are perfectly alive to the benefits of education, and all 
are anxious that their children be taught ; but, with every anxiety, 
the parents, in too many cases, cannot indulge it, from being un- 
able, in the first place, to pay the usual school wages, which are 
from 2s. 6d. to ds. 6d. per quarter, and provide clothes, in which 
their children might appear decently and comfortably ; in the 
second place, as before observed, from being obliged to send their 
children to be draw-boys or mill-boys, or even weavers, at an age 
when they should be more properly employed at school. Often 
have we thought that, if anywhere infant tuition were of advantage, 
it might be introduced with the greatest possible benefit to this 
population. We have done our utmost lo call the attention of those 
who might be supposed to be interested in the young of this place, 
to this highly important subject, — but hitherto, we lament to say, 
without effect. 

Literature, — There is a library in the parish, belonging to the 
subscribers ; the collection, of nearly 400 volumes, is chiefly made 
up of novels, biography, and a few travels. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — Previous to the year 183*2, the 
poor and parochial funds were managed by the kirk-session. The 



300 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

heritors met twice a-year with the session to docquet accounts} 
and to receive their report of the state of the poor ; but the whole 
of the active management devolved upon the session. Nor did 
they discharge their duties in a perfunctory manner. Besides ex- 
ercising a minute and daily care over all the paupers on the roll, 
on the first Monday of every month, the minister and kirk-sesaoo 
met, when all the paupers who could attend were expected to 
make their appearance, and personally to receive their monthlj 
allowance. Those who could not appear from ill health, were 
waited upon by some member of the session, and their condition 
reported. Thus was the case of every individual brought monthly 
under the view of the whole session. Sometimes, there was in con- 
sequence an increase ; sometimes, there was a diminution of their 
allowance, according to circumstances. The effects of this systan 
of watchfulness were abundantly apparent. None were admitted 
on the roll, who were not proper objects of charity. None were 
continued upon it, who did not require relief. No case was over* 
looked. The poor were well attended to and contented, and the 
funds by which they were supported, exclusive of the church col- 
lections, amounted to a mere trifle. In looking over the books, 
and taking the four years immediately previous to 1832, we find 
that there were expended L.i227, 5s. 6d. for the maintenance of 
the poor during that time, and at this period there were upon the 
roll two fatuous persons, and. two fatherless children. In the course 
of these four years, as appears by the books, the collections 
amounted to L. 119, Os. 8d. The remainder of the L.227, 5s. 6d., 
namely, L. 108, 4s. lOd. was made up by what is termed voluntary 
assessment. In other words, it was a subscription among the whole 
Inndward heritors of the parish, and was paid according to their 
respective valuations. This sum of L. 108, 4s. lOd., be it re- 
membered, was for the maintenance of the poor for four years. 
The annual average was L.27, Is. 2^d., or about 3d. and a frac- 
tion on L.2099 Scots, the nominal valuation of the parish, or 
about l^d. Sterling and a fraction upon L.4925, the real rental of 
the parish, being very little more than one-half per cent, thereon. 
This sum of one-half per cent., then, with the collections at tlie 
church, kept the poor of the parish. No assistance was given to 
this fund by any of the Dissenting congregations, though fre- 
quently applied to, and though the poor connected with the Dis- 
senters were admitted to equal privileges with those of the Esta- 
blishment. The kirk-session of the parish made no distinction. 

3 



BALFRON. 301 

Strange to say, however, there were those who looked upon the 
small sum which they were called upon to pay in aid of the col- 
lections, as a grievance. Murmurings were first heard, and they 
were unheeded. Complaints of the expense of the poor were pa« 
tiently listened to by the session. At last, however, one heritor 
«fcctually refused to give his quota, till compelled by law, and this 
^vas intimated to the session only when they had, as usual, met to 
pay the monthly allowances. The paupers were assembled ; the 
session had no funds to meet their demands, and they had no al- 
ternative but to resign their charge into the hands of the heritors. 
They intimated to them accordingly, in the most respectful way 
possible, their resolution to do so, expressing, at the same time, 
their great reluctance and regret at being compelled, from circum- 
stances, to take the step. 

The heritors accepted the resignation of the kirk-session, and 
the result is what any one might have anticipated. From 1832, 
when the kirk-session resigned their charge, up to the present 
time, the expenses relative to the poor have been gradually going 
on increasing. There are forty on the roll, and L.200 per annum 
does not now defray all charges. This sum is at present raised by 
an assessment on the whole inhabitants, — one-half being upon the 
heritors according to their real rental, and the other half upon 
householders and other inhabitants, according to their supposed 
means and substance. Every individual within the parish, whose 
earnings are supposed to amount to 10s. per week, is now taxed 
for the support of the poor. The springs of charity are dried up, 
ID consequence — the collections at the church door, are, we may 
say, almost nothing, say Is. per day, — there is a general displea- 
sure among the inhabitants ; and there is a feeling among the 
poor and destitute, that they are neglected, and, perhaps, with 
too much justice. In short, all the evil effects of a compulsory 
assessment are experienced, and in this parish we have another 
proof, if that was needful, of the truth of a remark, which cannot 
be too frequently repeated, ** that, of all the public funds in Eu- 
rope, none is managed with so little expense to the fund itself, none 
so frugally, none so impartially, and none is laid out more to the 
purpose for which they were raised, than the poor's funds under 
the care of the kirk-sessions of Scotland. And never, perhaps, 
will Scotland find a more proper jury to determine the objects of 
public charity, nor the quantum necessary for the supply." 



302 stirling$;htre. 

Miscellaneous Observattovs. 
In 1 755, the population of the parish seems to have been 755 

souls. In 1792, 1381 souls; of this number there was in the Til- 
lage 981. In 1793, the population was 1581 ; of those in the 
village there were 1181. By the returns of 1831, the population 
seems to have been in the whole parish, 2057 ; of these there were • 
in the village, about 1700. By census of 1841, the population 
is 1968. Since the publication of the last Statistical Account, 
1793, our roads have been certainly improved, though much in 
this way remains to be done. Since then, too, our means of in- 
tercourse with other towns, particularly with Glasgow, have in- 
creased. In those days, there was no post; the nearest office 
was Glasgow. There were no regular carriers for the contey- 
ance of goods. When the first caravan for the conveyance of 
goods and passengers, many years after this, was established 
on the road, it constituted quite an era in the history of the vil- 
lage. Now, the post arrives and departs daily, and we have 
our London letters^n the third day. Now, we have daily car^ 
riers for goods, and a neat light daily coach in summer for the 
accommodation of travellers. And now, too, for the accommoda- 
tion of all, there is a branch of the British Linen Company's 
Bank amongst us, under the active agency of the Messrs Robert- 
son. All these are, no doubt, changes to the better ; but, with 
all these, we cannot say that the village is in a state of thriving 
prosperity, but the reverse. The Endrick does not, at all seasons, 
even with the reservoir in Dundaff, afford constant and steady sup- 
ply of water for the mill ; and as we have at present to drive all our 
coals from Kirkintulloch, a distance of seventeen or eighteen miles, 
steam power is out of the question. The situation with all its beauty, 
therefore, is ill adapted for a manufacturing village. The popu- 
lation has increased since 1792, but not so, we fear, in comfort nor 
in happiness, in an equal ratio. On the contrary, there is in it 
very much misery arising from poverty and destitution; and if some 
new impetus be not given, by some means or other, in a few more 
years, 

** Far awny, our diili'ren will li«vc left the Inncl." 

Jiaie 1841. 



PARISH OF ST NINIANS. 

PRE8BTTBRY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. C. GREIG, A. M., MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — St Ninians is the uame by which the parish has long 
been known, though it is diflScult to say when, or for what reason, 
it was 6rst given. The labours of Ninian in the close of the fourth 
and beginning of the fifth century, were chiefly confined to Gallo- 
way, of which Keith styles him the first Bishop. There is no evi- 
dence that he ever was in this part of the country — far less tiiat 
he introduced Christianity into it; — nay, if we may believe Tertul- 
lian, before the close of the second century, the preachers of the 
Gospel had not only gone beyond the wall of Antonine, but be- 
yond the utmost extent to which the Roman arms had ever reach- 
ed. The original name of the parish was Egglis, Eggluis, or Ec- 
cles, the Churchy — nor was it till the simple forms of Culdee wor- 
ship were overwhelmed by the superstitions of Rome, that either 
churches or parishes were sainted. So late as the twelfth centu- 
ry, it retained its original name. In 1147, David I. founded the 
Abbey of Cambuskenneth, and gave to it certain lands in this pa- 
rish ; and during his reign, Robert, Bishop of St Andrews, grant* 
ed to the same Abbey, '^ the Church of Egglis, St Ninians, with 
its Chapels of Dunipace and Lithbert, and all its other chapels 
and oratories, and all other pertinents." During the occupation of 
the Romans, Stirling was considered merely as a watch-tower or sta- 
tion ; and if St Ninians was, perhaps, for a time the only church 
in the district between the Forth and Carron, it might, even after 
others had sprung up around it, still retain the name of the 
Church. In 1459, another Ninian became Bishop of Galloway, 
and in this century the deanery of the Chapel Ropl at Stirling 
was annexed to that bishoprick ; the Dean was invested with Epis- 
copal jurisdiction, and the bishop was designated, ^' Candidas Casae 
et Capellae Regiae Strivelingensis Episcopus." But though this 
brings one of the name near to us, it cannot be ascertained after 



304 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

which of the two the parish was named, or when and by whom the 
change of name was effected. One thing is certain, that, long after 
the parish was called St Ninians, the village in the parish regis- 
ter is styled Kirktown ; and it is only since 1724 that this name was 
entirely dropped. 

Boundaries and Extent. — St Ninians, it is said, once comprehend- 
ed the whole district between the Forth and Carron. With the ex- 
ception of the small space occupied by the parish of Stirling, the 
Forth is still its northern boundary for many miles ; by which, it isse- 
|)arated from the parishes of Kincardine, Lecropt, Logie, and Alloa. 
On the east, it is bounded by Airth; on the west, by Crargunnock and 
Fintr}'. The Carron on the south, for nearly six miles, separates 
it from Kilsyth and Denny, the parishes of Dunipace and Larbert 
fonning the remainder of its southern boundary. 

From the Church to Randieford, on the west, is a distance of mora 
than eleven miles; to Powbridge, on the east, about seven, thoughia 
a direct line, the distance between these extreme points may not be 
above 15 or 16 miles. The greatest breadth is 7 miles ; but, owing 
to the windings of the Forth and other causes, it is very irregular, 
and at both extremities is not more than three miles. A paral- 
lelogram of ten miles by six is more than the parish would fill u|). 
Eleven miles by five is nearer the truth ; fifty-five square miles — 
certainly, not under this, and probably very little above it. 

Topographical Appearances, — There are three distinct regions,as 
\o climate, soil, and appearance, into which the parish is naturally 
divided — the moorlands, dryfield, and carses. 

The moorlands form the eastern extremity of that range of hills, 
which runs across nearly the whole of the narrow isthmus which 
separates the Clyde from the Forth. Some of these rise to a consi- 
derable height, and have particular names given to them ; but, as a 
whole, they are denominated the Lennox hills. In thisparish, we have 
the Dundaff hills and the Earl's hills. The highest does not rise 
more than 1000 feet above the level of the sea. On the north, there 
is a large track covered with heath ; but, as you descend to the 
south, the pasture is much improved, and along the banks of the 
Carron, there is a narrow strip of well-cultivated land. The 
moorlands contain more than one-third of the whole parish. 

Descending from the moorlands to the dryfield, you meet with 
a bold range of basaltic columns, stretching from the soi;th-we^^t 
to the north-east; and by means of the King's Park, the Castle 
of Slirlinor, and the Abbey cniig, appearing to form a connection 



ST NINIANS. 305 

between the Lennox and the Ochil hills. These are very irregu- 
lar in heigh tf rising at some places to more than 100 feet; and 
as some of them are bare, and some planted to the very brink, they 
ha?e a very picturesque appearance. This is increased by the 
deep gorges, or intervening spaces through which the water appears 
to have forced its way ; their eastern slopes having much the ap- 
pearance of being left in their present state by the subsidence of 
that element The dry field in general slopes to the north and east, 
though it is so variegated, that it is difficult to bring it under any 
general description. There are in it several level tracks of consi- 
derable extent, but it is mostly undulating ; and these undulations 
occasionally terminate in steep banks, or swell up into rounded tops. 
Nearly the whole is well cultivated, enclosed, and beautified with 
hedgerows and plantations. 

The boundary which separates the dryfield from the carse is still 
more marked than that which divides the former from the moor- 
lands. It has much the appearance of the bank of a river or es- 
tuary, concurring with many other facts to prove that the carseswere 
once under water. As nany trunks and roots of trees have been, 
and still are to be found in them, they must afterwards have been 
covered with wood. The marks of the axe show that the trees were 
not overturned by tempests, nor were they cut down for fuel, else 
they would not have been left on the ground. The Romans com- 
plain that the natives concealed themselves in the woods, and is- 
suing thence, often unexpectedly assailed their wall and forts. 
It may, therefore, be reasonably concluded that the forests 
were cut down by them ; that the country being laid bare as far 
as the Forth, they might be relieved from the sudden incur- 
cursions of their troublesome neighbours.* The trees thus left on 
the damp ground would gradually form the morass in which the 
whole carses, from Falkirk to Stirling, are said to have been, when 
Edward invaded Scotland. A few patches of moss still remain in 
this parish, but, in general, the carses are in a state of high culture, 
and produce abundant crops. In some places banks are raised 
against the overflowing of the Forth, and throughout their whole 
extent the land seldom rises more than from twelve to twenty feet 
above the level of the sea. 

The heaviest rains and strongest winds are from the south-west, 

• The woods are supposed to have been cut down at the !)eginning of the third 
centUTy, after the return of Scverus from his expedition to the north, in which it is said 
h« lost ^000 of his men. 

STIRLING. ^ 



306 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

and of these our high grounds have an abundant share ; but from 
their position, as forming the eastern extremity of the range of the 
Lennox hills, they are equally exposed to the winds and rains from 
the east ; and it is believed that there are few places in Scotland, 
in which more rain falls than in the moorlands of this parish. 

Climate. — In general, the inhabitants of the parish are healthy, 
and many of them live to a great age. Within these few years, 
one person died in the 10 1st year of his age. Several deaths 
have taken place between 95 and 100 ; and we have still a few 
persons above 90, and a goodly number upwards' of 80. In 
former times, agues were common in the carses, and rheumatism is 
still prevalent, particularly in the moorlands. Marshes and stag- 
nant water having been completely removed by thorough draining, 
agues are now not known in the carses ; but no such remedy for 
rheumatism has been found. There is frequently very consider- 
able mortality among children from measles, scarlet-fever, and 
other diseases peculiar to childhood. Though almost every va- 
riety of disease peculiar to this country is to be. found in the pa- 
rish, yet no disease so frequent and unifd^m in its character occurs 
as to entitle it to the appellation of endemic The common con- 
tinued fever, often terminating in typhus, is frequent among the 
adult population of every age and sex. It does not appear that 
there is any material difference between the diseases of those that 
reside in villages, and those that live in the countr}* ; yet it is be- 
lieved that the greatest number of aged persons, in proportion to 
the population, will be found among those residing in the country. 
Nor is this to be ascribed to the superior purity of the air they 
breathe ; it may with greater propriety be imputed to their more 
simple and regular habits of life. 

Hydrography. — The Forth, the Bodotria of the Romans, when 
it comes into contact with this parish, is not attractive either for 
its beauty or the volume of its waters ; but during its course of six- 
teen miles, in which it forms our northern boundary, it receives 
such accessions from the Tcith, the Allan, the Devon, on the 
north, and from the Bannock, and other small streams on the 
south, that it not only becomes a magnificent river, but speedily 
swells out into an arm of the sea. It is navigable as far as Stir- 
ling, and the tide is perceptible for a mile above the town. The 
banks of the river are in general very low ; and in several places, ar- 
tificial mounds are necessary to prevent its overflowings. Lime and 
coal are shipped at Fallin ; brickand tile at Throsk. These are our 



ST NINIANS. 307 

only harbours. Though we have no other great river, it may per- 
haps be marked as a singularity, that we have streams flowing in 
every direction. At Randyford, the Endrick runs to the west, and 
empties itself into Lochlomond, whilst about halfamile to the south 
the Carron runs to the eastward, and discharges its waters into the 
Forth at Grangemouth. The Earl's Burn, and five or six lesser 
streams, run south, and increase the waters of the Carron. The 
Bannock, with an equal number of smaller rivulets, take a north- 
erly direction, and fall into the Forth ; whilst several small rivu- 
lets, rising about the middle of the Drylands, run duly east, and, 
uniting together, pass through the parish of Airth, and fall into 
the frith nearly opposite to Tulliallan. 

A little to die west of the Earl's Hill, there is a larg^ artificial 
dam, for collecting water to supply the works on the Carron. 
On the evening of the 25th of October 1839, the waters burst 
forth, and did considerable damage ; but whether it was owing to 
the earthquake, which was distinctly felt in many parts of the pa- 
rish that night, has not been clearly ascertained. The only lake 
in the parish is Loch Coulter, about two miles in circumference ; 
shallow to the west, but very deep to the north-east. 

In 1755, during the great earthquake by which Lisbon was 
destroyed, Loch Coulter was greatly agitated, and it was then, it 
is supposed, that a large stone, in weight about a ton, was raised 
from its bed, and carried towards the shore. Several years ago, 
a neighbouring farmer, availing himself of a hard frost, seized 
upon all the stone that was above water, so that now no part of it 
is visible, and the cairn of stones with which it is surrounded is ge- 
nerally covered with water. 

Auchentillilin's Spout on the Carron, and Gilraour's Linn in 
Touch Burn, are our only cascades. They are both beautiful ; 
but, neither from the quantity of water, nor the height of the fall, 
not above 20 feet, are they deserving of any particular description.* 

Geology and Mineralogy. — This extensive parish presents geo- 
logical appearances of very considerable interest. The flat dis- 
trict, or carse, which extends from the banks of the Forth to the 
rising ground on the south, a mean distance of about two miles, 
appears at a former period to have been completely submerged in 
water. The vast quantities of marine shells which are scattered 
in beds over the whole of this portion of the parish, furnish incon- 
testible proof, that the land, which now yields the richest crops, 

* The accounts given of the Carron Dog are a good deal exaggerate.!- 



308 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

has been reclaimed from the wide domaiu of waters. Immedi- 
ately beneath the surface, there is a bed of clay, from six to eight 
feet in thickness, which gradually shades into a soft alluvial de- 
posit, of a bluish colour, resembling exactly in smell and appear- 
ance the larger quantities of mud which lay along the banks of 
the river Forth. Underneath these clay and alluvial beds, at a 
depth of twenty feet, there occurs a layer of moss, about two feet 
in thickness, in which are found the bark, and flora of the birch 
and hazel tree, in a high state of preservation. Next in order 
are boulders, imbedded in clay or sand, and consisting chiefly of 
greenstone, hornblende, porphyries, schist, and quartz, in small 
pieces. These are occasionally intermixed with conglomerate and 
sandstone. And what renders these boulder beds strikingly re- 
markable, is the fact, that they run in straight lines from north- 
west to south-east. Wherever the current of the river has crossed 
them, and laid them bare, they can be traced for several miles, 
running in the above direction. If these stones have been abraded 
from their native rocks, in the high country on the north and 
west, by a current of water, their linear position will indicate the 
direction in which it has flowed. The boulders are succeeded, 
after a thin division of sand, by regular strata of sandstone and 
shale, which alternate, until, at the depth of twenty fathoms, they 
are interrupted by a seam of coal 2 feet 10 inches in thickness. 
The quality of this coal is not distinctly ascertained, as it never 
has been wrought. 

Analysis of the Carse Soil. 

Water, lOjparts. 

Silica, . . .44 

Aluroinaf 28 

Carbonate of lime, 2^ 

Organic matter, 6 

Oxide of iron, • ^i 

Soluble salts, . 1 

Soluble matter, . 2 

Loss, . . 5 

loo 
Passing to the upland district of the parish, the geological fea- 
tures are entirely changed. The surface is rough and unequal, 
and broken by deep gorges, which beautifully contrast with the 
bold and precipitous rocks by which they are overhung. The 
rock here, of most frequent occurrence, is trap. It is of great 
thickness, and, in the western faces of the craigs, stands in po- 
lygonal columnar forms, perfectly perpendicular to the horizon. 
These craggy rocks, which are uniformly steep in the western side, 



ST NINIANS. 309 

slope geotly toward the east. They repose upon a bed of sand- 
stone, of a whitish-grey colour ; but in passing downward it be«- 
comes a whitish-yellow, and at last shades away into a yellowish- 
brown. 

A general idea of the different strata of rock may be conveyed 
in the following accurate table of Lieutenant-Colonel Imrie, as 
given in the second volume of the Memoirs of the Wernerian 
Natural History Society. 

Table of Strata at Murray's Hall. 

1. VegeUble soil, about 2 feet in thickness. 

2. Trap, columnar, . . 60 
8. Trap, amorphous, .16 

4. A narrow line of trap much decomposed, 2 

5. Trap, compact, . . .3 

6. Sandstone, ... .3 

7. Narrow strip of slate-clay. 

8. Sandstone, . ... 8 

9. Slate-clay, .... 6 

10. Dark bluish-gr^ limestone, 3 

11. Slaty -clay mixed with glance coal, . 4- 

12. Sandstone, . • . . 13 
Idb Slate-clay containing narrow lines of sandstonei 8 

14. Slate clay almost black, 17 

15. Dark-bluish grey limestone with entrocbi 

and small particles of pyrites imbedded, 6 

16. Bituminous shale passing into slate clay, 6 

17. Bituminous shale with a mixture of calca- 

reous matter and pyrites, depth unknown. 

A few simple minerals are found in this district of the parish. 
Calc-spar is obtained along with the limestone. Heavy spar is met 
with in several parts of the moorland district Ironstone of excellent 
quality is found in balls, in the roof of the upper coal seam at 
Auchenbowie, and has been wrought along with the coal for the 
last fifteen years; calc-tuff is also obtained at the same place. 
The common jasper and agate are sometimes met with. In the 
soil and sub-soil are found blocks of granite, small-grained gneiss, 
mica«slate with garnets, clay-slate, red sandstone, quartz, compact 
felspar, claystone porphyry, sandstone, chlorite slate, conglomerate 
rocks, basaltic hornblende, and sometimes shale and coal blended 
with calcareous spar. 

Few fossil organic remains are found in the parish. Those that 
belong to the animal kingdom are chiefly bivalve shells. A few 
of the univalve shells are also met with in the shale accompanying 
the limestone. When sinking the coal-piU in Plean, a bed of shale 
is met with, composed almost entirely of bivalve shiells, belonging 
to the Mytilus genus. In the vegetable kingdom are found the 
remains of Lepidodendron, Stigmaria, and Sigillaria. 



310 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Coal — The coal mines are exceedingly valuable, and have been 
very extensively wrought. They lie on the south-east side of the 
parish, in ground considerably lower than that wherein the trap 
rocks abound. The collieries of Greenyards, Bannockbum, Plean, 
and Auchenbowie, may be regarded as forming one lai^ coal-field. 
There are several small seams of little value, but the two best 
ones are wrought Of these, the lower is the most important, 
being both thicker and of better quality than the other. 

The dip of the coal is toward the north-east, and the crop can 
be distinctly trac^ toward the west and south-west. On the 
north, however, the dip of the coal is not so well known, but, so 
far as can be ascertained, it is either cut off altogether, or sunk to 
a depth which has not yet been reached. The angle of dip is 
one foot in three on the north side, which seems to form the 
boundary line of the great northern coal formations in Scotland. 
At Bannockbum the strata dip one foot in eleven ; at Greenyards, 
one foot in six. 

The sections of the coal, and the depth of the shafts at Green- 
yards are as follow : — 

FeeC Inches. 

Greenyards* deepest shaft, 72 fiithoms :— 
Rough or mid cott]« ..04 

Stone division, . . 2 

Main coal, . . .23 

Hard sandstone and pavement form the roof of this coal. 

At Bannockbum both the thickness and quality of the coal 
undergo a very considerable change. The following section shows 
the difference : 





Feet. 


Inches. 


Upper or roof coal, 





94 


Slate coal. 





34 


Mid coal, 


1 





IJne clay, 


2 


6 


Main coal, 


1 


10 



The roof here consists of shale and pavement, and the deepest 
bhaft to the main is 58 fathoms. A shaft, however, is now in progress 
on the inclination of dip, the depth of which will be 95 fathoms. 

On the land* of Bannockbum the upper and less valuable seam 
of coal has been wrought for the last three years. Its quality is 
inferior to that of the main coal, and its average thickness is 19 
inches. The strata of rock of most frequent occurrence in the 
district where the coal mines are situated, are sandstone and shale. 
Bars of ironstone arc found in some of the shale beds. There is 
also a vein of limestone, of bluish-gray colour, thickly incrusted 
with marine shells. The coal mines in this parish are extensive- 



ST NINIANS. 311 

ly wrought, and have been long celebrated for the excellent coals 
which they produce. For durability and strength of heat, the best 
BaDDockbum coal is scarcely equalled, and certainly not surpas- 
sed, by any other coal in Scotland. 

Section of coal at Plean, (deepest shaft 33 fathoms.) 

Feet. Inches. 

Roof coal, 6 

Stone, . . 2 

Mid coal, . 9 

Fireclay, . . 1 11 

Main coal, . 1 10 

The soils of the parish may be arranged under three varieties^ 
1. the new alluvial or carse; 2. the old alluvial ; 3. the untran- 
sported, or that which is formed by the disintegration of the trap 
rocks. The old alluvial may be subdivided into the dryfield and 
moorland — the one is upon a gravelly subsoil, whilst the subsoil of 
the other is a retentive clay. The following analysis will show the 
constituent parts of the old alluvial and untransported soils : 

Analysis of old alluvial soil. Analysis of soil on trap rocks. 

Water, 6 parU. Water, . 5 parts. 

SiHca, 54 Silica, . 60 

14 
10 

1 
4 

44 

~100 100 

Much is doing in the parish to improve the soil. Draining 
and trenching, and an improved mode of cropping, will soon banish 
from the farmer's nomenclature such terms as sour soil, wet soil, 
stiff soil. 

Zoology, — Vertebrated Animals,'^ 

Mammalia. 

Plcootus auritus Erinaceus EuroiMVUs 

Vespertilio murinus Sorex araneus 

Sorez fodiens Talpa Europa;us 

Melcs tazus Vulpes vulgaris 

Mustcla vulgaris Lutra vulgaris 

.>.>..,>.»,...^, putorius Mus musculus 

Mus sylvaticus ^^^^.^ rattus 

.,-■„;, decumanus Sciurus vulgaris 

Lepus timidus Arvicola aquatica 

^im^mmM^rm CUDlCUlUS rr^¥k»**^r»»tif»t agTeStlS. 

Ccnrvus capreolus 

The common bat is a well knowu animal. The extent of the 
wings is about nine inches. One was caught at Plean which mea- 
sured eleven inches. 

The hedgehog is found in most places of the parish. 

The badger is seldom met with. Foxes are plentiful. They 



Alumina, 


23 


Alumina 


Gravel, 


7 


Gravel, 


Organic matter, 


1 


Oxide of iron. 


Oxide of iron, 


n 


Soluble matter, 


Soluble salts. 


1 


Organic matter. 


Loss, 


H 


Loss, . 



312 STIKLINQ8HIRE. 

are subject to a disease that causes the hair to fall from their tail 
In that state, they are sometimes found dead. The weasel is com« 
mon in hedge-banks and stone walls— a great destroyer of mice 
and other vermin. A white variety exists in the neighbourhood 
of Auchenbowie. The foumart occasionally makes its appear- 
ance in the poultry-yard, and often commits great ravages among 
domestic fowls. The otter is found on the banks of rivers and 
lakes. Among the many safe retreats of that animal, few will 
match with the following : The water which comes from the old 
coal-workings of Bannockburn and Auchenbowie joins the river 
Bann'ock, a little below the village of Bannockburn, Up this 
river the otter has found its way, and when it has reached the ex- 
cavations it is safe. Its footsteps are seen on the sand banks thai 
are thrown up by the water. Attempts have been made to de* 
stroy them, but they always escape. When danger approaches, 
they retire into one of the many intricate windings of the place, 
and are secure from farther molestations. 

The squirrel is common in the woods; but it is not always 
content with hazel-nuts, beech-mast, and fir-cx)nes ; — it fre- 
quently attempts to climb over garden walls, and is sometimes 
successful. It carries away the fruit for its young. A young man 
at West Plean, one summer day, after he had eaten his dinner, 
lay down under a tree. He had not remained long in that state 
when he felt something stirring about him. When he got up 
a squirrel ran from him towards a tree. When it got be- 
hind a branch it peeped over it in a playful mood, seeming to en- 
joy the joke. It was probably the few crumbs of bread that re- 
mained in his pocket, that induced this lively animal to approach 
so near him. 

The water vole, or water rat, is found about the banks of 
rivers and ditches, and lives chiefly on the roots of water plants. Dr 
Fleming, in his Natural History of British Animals, says, ** It is 
probable that this species becomes torpid in the cold months." It 
has been found, however, to be very active in winter. A gentle- 
man belonging to the parish had his crop of celery destroyed one 
winter by these animals. In the months of December and Janu- 
ary, the crops began to look sickly. When it was examined to 
ascertain the cause, a tunnel was found to run along the centre of 
the ridge. The moles were blamed for the mischief. A mole • 
trap was set in the passage; but, instead of moles being caught, 
three of the water voles were captured. 



ST N1NIAN8. 313 

The roe is plentiful in the upland district of the parish, parti- 
cularly in the woods of Plean, Auchenbowie, and Sauchie. 

Biros. 

Lagoput Sootieus Falco tinnunculus 

Pcraiz einem Otus vulgaris 

Butco nisus Saiioola OSnantbe 

Caprimulgus Europanis R^ulus oiistatus 

Comiea airioapilla Cinelus aquatieus 

. . ijlvia Anthus pratensis 

Motaoilla flava ^ FringUla lioaria 

Fuvi major ' ..«..«....«» carduelis 

^,m. cBTuleus Ardea cinerea 

-Certhia fiiiniliaris Fulica atra 

OrtygomeCra erez Vanellus trlsUiva 

Scolopas rusticola Anser ferus. 
Anas boadias 

The black-grouse and moorfowl are found in the moorland dis« 
trict of the parish. Partridges are plentiful. This season, that 
beautiful little bird the golden-wren has naade its appearance. In 
the short days of winter, it is very active in examining the chinks 
of the trunks of old trees, and pouncing upon the unsuspecting 
insect that had laid itself up for the winter. The yellow wagtails 
commonly build their nests in the heaps of coals that are placed 
Dear the mouth of the coal-pit. They have a strong attachment 
for their young ones. Last year, a coal heap required to be re- 
moved, and in it was found a yellow wagtail's nest, with young 
ones in it. The old birds showed great anxiety at the removal of 
their brood : they followed those who had the nest. A shelve 
was put up in a pig-sty, and the nest placed upon it, and the old 
ones came and fed their young, until they were able to shift for 
themselves. They seemed to pay no regard to the inhabitants of 
the sty. It seldom happens that such opposite characters are 
found sleeping in the same dormitory. 

The wild duck frequents the small lochs of the parish ; and the 
wild goose is sometimes to be seen in Loch Coulter. 

FiSHKS. 

Salmo salar Osmerus eperlanus 

albus Esox lucius 

tnitta Leuciscus phoxinus 

fario Platessa vulgaris 

Anguilla vulgaris Perca fluviatilis. 

Gasterusteus aculeatus 

The salmon, whiting, sea-trout, and smelt are found in the 
Forth, the perch and pike in Loch Coulter, and the minnow, 
stickleback, and common trout, in the small streams of the parish. 

liKimLES. 

ViiHsra communis Triton vulgaris 

Kana temporaria ,«..«..««^ aquatieus. 

vulgaris 






314 



8T1RLINGSH1UE. 



The viper or adder is sometimes uiet witb) baskii^ in the sun 
on banks facing the south. 

Forests or Plantations. — From its variety of soil and climate al- 
most every species of tree to be found in Scotland prospers in 
this parish. The specimens of the fir tribe may be mentioned as 
equal if not superior to what are to be met with in other parts of 
the country. The largest plantations are on the lands of Sauchie 
and Touch, amounting to nearly a thousand acres. It may be 
questioned if there is as much more ground under wood in all the 
rest of the parish. In front of Bannockburn House there are two 
silver firs, Pinus piceoj remarkable at once for their size and ap- 
pearance. In the same park there^is a very beautiful and large 
sweet chestnut. The ash trees in the park of Camock are of great 
size, — one of them is counted the largest in Stirlingshire. In the 
woods of Touch, there are some very large old oak trees, and a 
fiu^ cedar, supposed to be the largest in Britain. We have very 
little natural wood in this district ; and though there are nume- 
rous fruit trees scattered through the parish as well as in the gar* 
dens, there is hardly in it any thing that deserves the name of an 
orchard. 

Botany. — Being of considerable extent, and including almost 
every variety of soil and surface, except high hills and sea shore, 
this parish presents a fertile field for the researches of the bota- 
nist. A list of all the plants found in it would occupy too much 
space for a work of this nature ; but the following comprehends 
most of the rare or interestinsr ones that are to be met with. 



Hippuris vulgaris 
Chara vulgaris 
Circaa lutetiana 
Veronica acutcllata 
Pinguicula vulgaris 
Valeriana officinalis 

Kriophorum vaginatum 
Dipsaciis fullonum 
Asperula odorata 
Plantago media 
PotainogetoD fluitans 



Campanula latifolia 
Viola palustris 

Vcrbascum thapsus 

Hyoscyamus niger 
Atropa Belladonna 
Solanum dulcamara 
Lonicera periclymenum 



Narthccium osnfragum 
Peplis poitula 
Berberis vulgaris 
Alisma plantago 
Trientalis Europsa 
Epilobium angusti folium 

Vaccinium vitis-idam 
Daphne laureola 



Chenopodium Bonus- Hen- Polygonum bistorta 



0'^0<0*0im0>0tmfi0i^i0<0^0^'^<^>0^0f0t 



y»<WN»P<»M»»^»#<^»»»»<Wi»^»<^*>^# 



Radiola millegrana 
Anchusa sempcrvirens 
Cynoglossum officinale 
Symphytum officinale 
Kcbium vulgare 
Primula vcris 
Anagallis arvenhisi 
Convolvulus sepium 
l.ysiniachia nemorum 



ricus 
Gentiana campestris 
lanceolatum Sanicula Europsa 
crispum Chierophyllum sativum 

Scandix pectcn- veneris 
Myrrh is odorata 
Conium maculatum 
Smyrnium olusatrum 
Viburnum opulus 
Parnassia palustris 
Drosera rotundifolia 
Allium ursinum 



Pyrola media 
Chryscsplenium altcrni* 

folium 
Saxifraga granulata 

Saponaria officinalis 
Stellaria nemorum 
.>^ « ..>.>,..^ g^auca 
Sodum telephium 

9>0>^^0m>m**m0m V J I IC/SU 111 

Agrostemma githago 
Reseda luteola 
Prunus padus 



ST NlNfANS. 



315 



Hubti* lasatUis 
Comiuruin paluttre 
Cbdidoniinii migus 
Njmplunalba 
Cistus helianthemum 
Aquilegia vulgaris 
Anemone nemorom 
Ranunculus auricomus 

»i>i ■ soeleratus 

■ — ... hederaceus 



Trolllus Europaeus 
Antirrhinum linaria 
Cardamine aroara 
Erodium cicutariuiu 
Gcaranium syWadcum 
•^pratense 



Gnapbalium gcrmanicum 

• • 

Senecio syWatious 
Orchis bLTolia 
«,>,>^„ latifolia 
>«w«i^»«. maculata 
Listera ovata 
Arum maeulatum 
Empetrum nigrum 
Juniperus communis 
Equisetum anrense 
palustre 
limosum> 



tfWWWIMtMPWWWI^MMMM 



w^^^i^ ^^ wmmmm^^^m^ 



mmmmm m m'^^m 



Geranium ph«um 
,vmm,«mm„»,„m,* sauguineum 
Fumaria capreolata 
Genista Anglica 
Ononis arvensis 
Ornithopus pcrpusillus 
Astragalus glycyphyllos 
Trifolium arvense 
Hjrpcricum humifusum 

Cichorum intybus 
Bidens tripartita * 
Tanacctum Tulgare 
Artemisia Tulgaris 
Gnapbalium dioicum 

II. — Civil History. 
From its situation, this parish was long exposed to scenes of 

turbulence and blood. When the carses were a morass, the 
narrow space between them and the Lennox hills afforded 
the chief, if not the only line of communication between the 
Dorthem and southern parts of the island, nearly cut asunder 
by the Friths of Clyde and Forth. Nor is it till you reach this 
parish, that there are any fords at which men or horses can pass 
the Forth ; and even now, there are no bridges lower down than 
that of Stirling. Our neighbourhood to the Roman wall, and the 
Roman road, which ran for seven or eight miles through the 
parish, might be thought favourable to civilization, and so they 
would had the province Vespasiana been retained. But this 
province existed only a few years. In the year 209, Severus 
lost 50,000 men in attempting to recover it ; and on his failure, it 
is believed that the woods between the wall and Forth were cut 
down by the Romans, thus desolating the country, to prevent it 
from sheltering the natives in their incursions against them. If 
this district was in a turbulent state during the time of the Ro- 
mans, it was not likely to be much improved during the long and 
dark period which succeeded their departure. When Scotland, 
with a portion of the north of England, was divided into four 
kingdoms, the Northumbrians and Cumbrians on the south, the 
Picts and Scots on the north, — this parish, with a great part of 
Stirlingshire, was, as in the days of the Romans, a battle-field on 
which these nations contended, — a sort of border debateable 
ground, which sometimes belonged to one nation and sometimes to 
another. Even after Scotland was united, and Stirling became a 
fortified town and a royal residence, little was added to the peace 
or improvement of the neighbourhood. Contests about succession 
to the crown introduced the English, who, like the Romans, wished 



316 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

to bring the country under their subjection, and in prosecution of 
this object, shed much of their own blood as well as that of the 
natives. The Roman road appears to have been employed by 
different armies in marching through this parish ; and it was op- 
posite to Kildean, the point at which that road first reaches the 
Forth, that the battle of Stirling, or more correctly of Comtown, 
was fought in 1297. The Scots were commanded by Wallace, 
and the English by Lord Surrey and Cressingham. Part of the 
English army had crossed the bridge, which was of wood, and so 
narrow as to admit of only two men abreast, when they were at- 
tacked and routed by the Scots. It has been questioned whether 
the bridge was broken down by accident or design, or, indeed, if 
it was broken down at all. The water at the ford is not above 
two feet deep at low water, and Wallace's dexterity was displayed 
in attacking, when only a part of them had crossed the river. 
Cressingham was slain, Lord Surrey, who was on the south bank, 
fled with the remainder of the army, but was speedily pursued, over- 
taken, and severely defeated at Torwood. About seventeen years 
after, Edward himself, with a great army, advanced towards Stirling 
by the same road. The English are said to have encamped at 
the Roman station at West Plean, the night before the battle ; and 
on the 24th of June 1314, was gained one of the most complete 
victories ever obtained by the Scots over their oppressors. All 
the facts, and varied controversies, about the battle of Bannockbum 
are so well known, as to render any detail unnecessary. These 
were contests between rival nations; but on the 11th of June 
1448, was fought the battle of Sauchie, between James III. and 
his rebellious subjects. A stone is still pointed out, not far from 
the modern house of Sauchie, in which it is said that the stand- 
ard was fixed ; and a large cairn of stones in the neighbourhood 
was probably raised over the bodies of the slain. The field is 
little more than a mile from the Bored Stone, and about two 
miles and a-half from St Ninians. The King fled from the 
battle, was thrown from his horse at Milton ; and the house into 
which he was carried, and where he was slain, is still shown. Id 
the minority of James VI., some of the bloody scenes transact- 
ed in Stirling extended also to this parish. In 1511, the Earl 
of Lennox, the King's grandfather, held a Parliament in Stir- 
ling, a party from Edinburgh marched during the night, and 
attacked them unexpectedly next morning. In the scuffle, the 
Regent received hjs deadly wound at Newhouse, between St Ni- 



ST NINIANS. 317 

nians and Stirling. The spot was marked by a heap of stones 
and rubbish, which was removed in I7589 when the road was im- 
proved. In the days of Cromwell and Charles IL, though no 
battle was fought in this parish, it was harassed by the contending 
armies marching through it, or encamping in its neighbourhood. 
A century has nearly elapsed since it was exposed to the last of 
these turbulent scenes. In September 1745, the Pretender 
marched through the parish with his army, he and several of his 
nobles remaining one night at Bannockburn House, to which 
they had been invited by Sir Hugh Paterson, the then proprietor. 
On his return from the south, Bannockburn House was his head- 
quarters during the month of January 1746, whilst his followers 
were lodged in the surrounding villages. A mark in one of 
the rooms, produced by a bullet that was fired at the Prince, 
is still shown. On the morning of the 17th of that month, 
his army assembled on Plean Moor, and thence marched to the 
battle*field, west of Falkirk, where they obtained a victory 
over the King's troops. On the approach of the Duke of 
Cumberland, they retreated to the north, having, 1st February, 
blown up the Church of St Ninians, which had been used as a 
powder magazine. Besides the destruction of the church, several 
persons were killed, and others severely wounded. The steeple 
remained entire ; and, as the new church was built at some distance 
from it, strangers seldom fail to inquire what can have caused 
so unnatural a disjunction. 

Eminent Men. — Sir John Graham, styled by Wallace his right 
hand, was certainly a person of note, though few authentic facts 
have been transmitted concerning him. 

Colonel John Erskine of Carnock was Commissioner from Stir- 
ling in the Parliament of 1 707, and voted in favour of the Union. 
He was also Lieutenant-Governor of Stirling Castle, and planted 
the trees at the east of the King's Park. 

Henry the historian was born at Muirton, in the carses. 

Miss Hamilton resided at Crook, when she wrote the Cottagers 
of Glenburnie. 

Mr Harvey, the painter, is a native of the village of St Ninians. 

Heritors. — The heritors are a numerous body. The stipend is 
localled upon 125; but several of the heritors hold more than 
one number, and some of them are so small as to render them 
ridiculous. Once and again, there is one-tenth of a lippie of meal, 
and one-tenth of a lippie of barley, of old stipend, with two-twelfths 



318 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

of a lippie of meal, and two-twelfths of a lippie of barley of aug- 
mentation, with one penny Sterling money, stipend. Three noble- 
men have estates in the parish ; but none of them reside or have 
houses in it. The Duke of Montrose, who has still a good 
estate in the moorlands, is superior of an extensive tract. L^rd 
Abererombie has a small, but very valuable estate in the Carses. 
The Earl of Dunmore's landed property in this parish is of great 
extent ; and his residence, Dunmore Park, is in our immediate 
vicinity. The greatest landed proprietors, are, Mr Murray of 
Touchadam and Folmaise, and Mr Ramsay of Saucbie, in this 
parish, and of Barnton in Mid- Lothian, and Lord Dunmore. Next 
to them are Touch, the Hospital of Stirling, Carnock, Craigforth, 
Plean, Auchintowie, Throsk, East and West Greenyards. 

Parochial Registers. — The oldest parochial register is that of 
births and baptisms, commeiiciDg at 1643, and continued down- 
wards with a blank betwixt 1711 and 1717. Proclamation of 
banns^ at 1688, has two blanks, viz. from 1719 to 1725, and from 
1754 to 1774. 

The session records, down to 1838, are contained in ten volumes 
folio. The first volume now in existence commences November 
1653; but there is part of a minute, dated 1608, and two extracts 
from a former volume, 1631 and 1639, are entered anew under 
1699, in which John Drummond of Carnock and Skeock grants 
right to certain seats to John RoUo of Bannockburn. James 
Edmonstone was minister. The record 1653 commences with, 
** This day the session being frequentlie, i. e. fully convened," but 
often immediately after the date, it is ^^ compeared" such and 
such persons. No sederunt is marked till 1660, nor any mention 
made of prayers, though probably offered up, either at the open- 
ing or close, till after the Revolution. But though modern forms 
were not observed, much business was transacted. From 1 653 to 
1750, with few exceptions, there were from twenty-four to thirty 
meetings of session in the year. The minister and elders exercised 
most extensive powers, both in passing acts, and in punishing delin- 
quents. Besides licentious persons, drunkards, Sabbath-breakers, 
and slanderers, they took cognizance of those guilty of theft, preva- 
rication or perjury, of scolding and railing. Severe enactments are 
made against those that ^^ haunt public-houses, that do not keep 
the kirk, and the examinations," — but idle persons, such as vagrants, 
vagabonds, and sturdy beggars, and also ^^ those that resett them," 
are objects of their highest displeasure. Nor was it merely by 



ST NINIANS. 319 

admonition and censure, that they sought to repress these evils. 
In 1665, we find the following entry, " because this kirk is trou- 
bled with sturdy beggars every Sabbath, appoint James Wilson, 
constable, to wait at the style next Sabbath to put them away, and, 
if refracterie, to put them in the stocks or steeple." Delinquents 
in general were subjected to fines ; and, to keep good order 
at marriages, it was. enacted, that, should any thing of a contrary 
nature take place, the money previously lodged with the session- 
clerk should immediately be forfeited to the poor. At times they 
threaten to give them over to the civil magistrate, but not unfre- 
quently they appear to have set them in the " jugs," or banished 
them the parish by thm own authority. 

If the session were zealous in repressing evil, they were at the 
same time active in promoting good. Much wisdom and tender- 
ness was displayed in reconciling families and neighbours. The 
elders were exhorted to see that worship was maintained in every 
family ; and great attention was paid to those who sought for bap- 
tism for their children, or for admission to the Lord's table. The 
education of the young was an object of peculiar care, and they 
seem to have exercised an unlimited authority, both over the teacher 
and his scholars. They appoint the parochial schoolmaster and allot 
him his salary, — they instruct him what he is to teach, and fix his 
hours of teaching, — when dissatisfied, call him before them, ad- 
monish, reprove, or dismiss him at their pleasure. They enact 
that no private teacher shall open a school without their permis- 
sion ; and that none shall be opened within two miles of the pa- 
rochial school. 

The topics enumerated, together with the management of the 
poor, in a populous and extensive parish, might be supposed to 
aflbrd sufficient employment to any kirk-session. But, in addition 
to all these, the kirk-session of St Ninians took the chief manage- 
ment of the fabric of the church and the arrangement of its seats. 
They build an aisle from their own funds, which is kept entirely 
under their own control, and part of their fines are laid out in re- 
pairing the church-yard dikes. Heritors make application to 
them for seats, which they erect, exchange, or alter very much at 
their pleasure. By their order, sums of money were collected for 
propagating the Gospel; for. building churches, particularly in 
Ireland ; for people who had lost their property, or who were to 
undergo dangerous operations ; and, once for a man who had been 
taken captive by the Turks. Nay, once and again, we find fhem 



320 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

actively employed in building or repairing bridges. They assist 
in repairing the bridges over the Carron and at Chartreshall ; and, 
in 1670, they not only urge the heritors, but the elders collect 
largely themselves to erect a stone bridge, instead of the wooden 
one, over the Bannock in the upper carses. 

It is not to be supposed that the same activity prevailed under 
every incumbent. Mr George Bennet, who was also proprietor of 
East Livilands, was minister from 1655 to 1674. In his time the 
parochial machinery was in full operation ; nor does the accession 
of Charles II, or the introduction of Episcopacy, appear greatly to 
have paralyzed it. In the early part of his ministry, grievous com- 
plaints are made against Cromwell's EngMh soldiers, and numbers 
are summoned before the session, for harbouring or keeping com- 
pany with them. At a later period, some {parishioners are ** con- 
vened for beating Argyle's men on the Sabbath day." 

On the 12th of April 1676, << Mr William Fogo was formallie 
admitted to the exercise of the ministerial function in this kirk.** 
The session frequently met ; but the minutes are not so full as in 
th^ time of his predecessor. He was succeeded in 1684 by Mr 
James FuUarton, who, ^' on said day, was formallie admitted to the 
exercise of the ministrie in this church." In 1687, **.Mr Wright 
of Alloa preached and institute Mr Forsyth, formerly minister of 
Clackmannan, to the exercise of the ministry in the parish of St 
Ninians in the face of the congregation." Complaints are made 
of persons not coming to the communion, nor keeping their own 
kirk ; both men and women are summoned before the Session for 
attending conventicles, and having their children irregularly bap- 
tized. 

A sequestered spot is pointed out, where it is said the Cove- 
nanters assembled, and the station where the watchmen stood to 
give notice when the soldiers left the Castle of Stirling, coming 
to attack them. 

Mr Forsyth appears to have been a keen Episcopalian, and soon 
after his adniission, Mr Cooper, in 1688, was ordained " by the 
unite Presbyteries of Stirling and Dunblane in the Presbyterian 
meeting-house of Bannockburn." Mr Forsyth was alive after Mr 
Cooper left Bannockburn in 1692; but there are no records of his 
session after 1690. The Presbytery occasionally supplied the 
pulpit of the meeting-house, and the only notice of Mr Forsyth is 
a complaint against him ^' about the state of the kirk and the keys 
of the kirk-door." " In June 1695, the united Presbvteries of Stir- 



ST NINIANS. 321 

ling and Dunblane did solemnly admit, and, debito modoj ordine 
Mr John Logan, formerly minister of the Gospel at Lecropt^ to 
be minister of the Gki^pel at St Ninians/' He was cordially re- 
ceived, and during bis time, parochial superintendence reached its 
highest perfection. There were between forty and fifiy elders. 
These were divided into committees, and the detail of their proceed- 
ings would 611 volumes. Mr Logan died, 14th July 1727, the 
session marking with special care " that he had been minister here 
thirty-two years and thirty-nine days." Once and again, they ten« 
derly allude to the loss they had sustained. 

Under November 22, 1727, we have the following minute: 
*^ The which day the heritors, to the number of one hundred and 
sixty, besides ten letters or thereby from heritors not residing in 
the parish ; the whole elders to the number of forty-six, and about 
eight hundred and twelve heads of families, and none at all of 
either ranks opposing, mett and most cheerfully subscribed a call 
to the Rev. Mr Archibald Gibson, minister of the Gospel at Dun- 
blane, to be their minister." Mr Gibson went to Edinburgh in 
1732, and was succeeded by Mr Mackie of Forteviot in March 
1734, in direct opposition to the wishes of the people ; and during 
his incumbency about one -half of the parishioners are said to 
have joined the Secession. On the retreat of Prince Charles, 
1st February 1746, the church, which had been used as a powder 
magazine, was blown up and several persons killed. Some years 
elapsed before the new church was erected, during which public 
worship was conducted in the glebe in summer, and in the West 
Church of Stirling in winter. The Lord's Supper was once and 
again dispensed in the open air ; and we find the congregation 
in the West Church in November 1750. They must have enter- 
ed the new church in the end of that year, or early in 1751. 
The session, in Mr Logan's time, had enlarged the church by 
building an aisle, and they now requested the heritors to refund 
to them the poor's money which had been laid out. This they 
refused; and Mr Mackie, going to London, collected L.504, 
** which was given mostly for the support of an assistant." This 
gave rise to a law-suit between the heritors and session, and in 
1780 the heritors prevailed, and the Court of Session ordered that 
henceforward nothing should be paid to the assistant from this fund. 
Mr Mackie went to the West Church, Edinburgh, 1753; and 
the session were successful in procuring the harmonious settle- 
ment of Mr John Gibson, who was ordained in May 1754. He 

STlltLING. X 



322 STIKLINGSHIRE. 

was translated to Edinburgh in 1765, and it was not ttW after 
more than seven years' litigartion that Mr Thomson from Gargiin* 
nock was admitted his successor. Mr Finl|iy of Dollar, who pre* 
sided, delivered the celebrated speech for which he had after- 
wards to apologize to the General Assembly. On Mr Thomson's 
admission, the great body of the people left the church and built 
a Relief house, in which there is still a numerous congregation. 

The late Mr Sheriff succeeded Mr Thomson in 1788, and in 
Oclober 1823 he resigned his charge, and becamd pastor to a 
Baptist congregation in Glasgow. 

Antiquities. — The Roman road, of which hardly a trace now re- 
mains, was unquestionably our most remarkable antiquity. It 
entered this parish from the Torwood, and, running in a north- 
westerly direction, reached the Forth at Kildean, where was the 
wooden bridge and ford already mentioned. From Kildean the 
causeway ran westward through the lands of Craigforth, till near 
the present Drip bridge, where there is another ford of the same 
depth, two feet, as that at Kildean, and through which the Ro- 
man soldiers are supposed frequently to have marched. A branch 
struck off from the great road, probably before it reached St Ni- 
nians, ran to the west towards Cambusbaron through the farm of 
Bearside. The improvements on this farm caused part of it to be 
removed within these four or five years, and a few stones, the last 
remnants, are still to be seen ; but whether this road led to the 
ford of Few, or to the Roman station, or the Ciistle hill above 
Touch, is altogether uncertain. 

There are five places in the parish denominated Roman camps, 
though it is evident from their size they can have been nothing 
more than stations. Two of these, with the one at Stirling, would 
command a complete view of the Forth, from the place where it be- 
comes fordable, till it is covered by the steep and rugged ground be- 
hind Gargunnock. These three frontier stations could all commu- 
nicate, by signal, with Plean, as Plean could with Torwood — and 
Torwood is in view of Camelon and the Roman wall. When 
the woods were destroyed, the passage of the Forth by any enemy 
could, in a very short time, be communicated to the soldiers guard- 
ing the wall. It is more difficult to ascertain the use of the other 
camps, one of them being among the rugged rocks, to the west of 
Sauchie, and the other not far distant on the low grounds of 
Touchgorum. 

The ruins of Sir John de Graham's Castle are near the western 

3 



ST N1MAN8. 323 

eitremily of the parish, Id a very sequestered spot, and which, in early 
times^ must have been difficult of access. The appearance of the 
ditch, and the thickness of the wall, leads to the conclusion, that 
it was a place of considerable extent, and great strength. Wallace 
is said often to have retired to this castle, and Graham was slain 
when 6ghting along with him at the. battle of Falkirk. Sir J. 
Graham was a younger brother of the family whence the Dukes 
of Montrose are descended. Dundaff, whence they take the title of 
Viscountf and the greatest part of the moorlands, at one time be- 
longed to them, and they were patrons of the Kirk o'Muir. It is 
reasonable, therefore, to conclude that it was in honour of some 
one of this family that the Earl's hill and the Earl's burn were 
named. 

No part of the fabric of the Kirk o'Muir now remains. The 
burying ground is still used ; and a small erection at the gate, said to 
be that in which the elders stood when collecting, was in truth built 
for a school, but is now in ruins. It was a place of worship in Popish 
times, and a field in the neighbourhood is still called the Priest's 
croft or field. In the Commissary's list of parishes, Kirkamuir is 
stated apart from St Ninians ; and it is said to have been one of 
the first places in which the Lord's Supper was dispensed, accord- 
ing to our present mode, after the Reformation. It is nearly ten 
miles from the parish church, and five west of Buckieburn. 

St Ninians parish contained other three chapels, — one at Skeok, 
a mile below Bannockburn, dedicated to the Virgin, of which there 
are no remains, and nothing is now known. Another at St Ni- 
nian's Well, (whence Mr Nimmo says the parish derived its name,) 
has been repaired, and is used as a washing-house. A third is 
at Cambusbaron, of which there were some fragments in the me- 
mory of persons still alive ; and to which a burying-ground appears 
to have been attached, as, in trenching the garden ground in the 
neighbourhood, a great variety of human bones were turned up. 

The house of Sauchie, now in ruins, must have been intended 
as a place of defence. The loop-holes whence the archers shot 
their arrows, are still in perfect preservation. On the lands of 
Camock there is a round tower called Bruce's Castle ; and not 
far from this, at Plean Mill, a much finer square erection, the 
greatest part of which, however, has been used for the buildings 
on the farm. Except the name, there is no tradition when, 
by whom, or for what purpose either of these were erected. The 
bored stone, a little to the south-west of St Ninians, and the stand- 



324 STIULINOSHIRB. 

ing stones in Randolph field, near Newhouse, are peraianent me* 
morials of the battle of Bannockburn. There are several cainif 
or tumuli in the parish ; but it is mtich more difficult to ascertain 
the events which they were intended to commemorate. Two of 
these, to a certain extent, have not long since been examined. On 
the lands of Sauchie, and not far from the supposed field of battle, 
there was a large cairn of stones, more than thirty yards in diame- 
ter, and upwards of twenty feet in height. On removing the 
smaller stones, which had evidently been collected from the neigh- 
bouring fields, there were found two coffins, the one somewhat 
larger than the other. These were of freestone, of the same qua* 
lity as Catscraig quarry, — little more than a mile distant, and 
which is still wrought. The other cairn was on the lands of 
Craigengelt, in the high grounds of the parish. The name signi- 
fies the rock of terror, or the bloody rocks ; and both its name and 
appearance give ground to believe that it had been the scene of 
many tragical events.* 

In almost every field the remains of rude fortifications, such as 
entrenchments and breastworks, are still traceable, as well as 
Druidical cairns. About 150 yards north of Craigengelt House, 
there is a mound of the same kind as that which has been remov- 
ed, but only one-half its size. It is also flanked with stones at 
equal distances from each other. In the upper part of Craigen- 

* About two years ago the tenant was engaged in levelling and iinproTing a field on 
the eastern extremity of Croigenge't, in which there was a large cairn or mound, 
known in the country by the name of the *' Gfuni't Kuovt'.** It was quite circular, 
exactly 900 feet in circumference at the base, and which was flanked around by twelve 
very large stones, placed at equal distances, and it was 12 feet high, with a slight in* 
clination to one side, and flat on top. On removing the turf and soil, it was found 
that the interior consisted of large and small stones built together with great care, 
which led the proprietor to think that it must have been a place of Druidical le* 
pulturc. About ti feet from the centre, there stood four upright stones, each about 
5 feet in height, describing an oblong figure like a bed. Within this a coffin was 
found, the length of which was about 7 feet, S\ broad, and S^ deep. The under part 
or l>ottom of the coffin was whin.flag, as w<is also the up})er part or lid. Within 
this were found the remains of a human body of the ordinary size. The bones, ex- 
cejit a very small part of the skull, were of the consistence of soft chalk,— the 
body had been enveloped in something like a mixture of decayed vegetable matter 
and tar, which, when exposed to the atmosphere, emitted a strong odour. Strict or- 
ders were given to the labourers that if anything like a coffin should be found, ihty 
were not to open it till either the proprietor or tenant were present. But one 
of them, an old schoolmaster, who knew something of antiquities, went during the 
night, and carried off a variety of articles, the nature antl numl>er of which are not 
now likely ever to be ascertained. With reluctance, he gave up a stone axe of beau- 
tiful workmansliip, and a gold ring. The ring had had a jeW^l in it ; but the jewel 
wxs out, and it was what is called " chased," and must have been worn on a very small 
finger. A labourer in the neighbourhood sold a variety of things of a rare descrip- 
tion lo a gentleman, in whose possession, it is believed, they still are. 'J he axe and 
tlu- ling were the only things obtained by the proprietor, J. Dick, Esq. of Craigen- 
gelt, and they are still in his |)ossession. 



ST NINIANS, 325 

^elt there are a mimber of artificial hills of great size. They are 
covered with fine grass, and are known by the name of the ^^ sunny 
hill<; ;" but as to their origin or use even tradition is silent. 

Where the lands stretch towards the EarPs burn, there is a 
very soKtary but lovely small valley, in which are three artificial 
hills, the raising of which must have cost great labour. The en- 
trenchment is the smallest, and is called ^^ Goodie's knowe." Tlie 
middle one, the *^ Heart's hill," is by far the finest formed, being 
nearly circular^ and 50 feet high, with a conical top. The third 
is the largest, of an oblong shape, with terraces on its sides. All 
of them are covered with the finest grass ; and it is evident that 
the gravel and soil of which they are composed have been taken 
from the park wherein they stand. There is no tradition when or 
by whom these works were constructed ; but one thing is certain, 
that the antiquary would be amply repaid for his labour in visiting 
these interesting remains of times long gone by. 

III. — Population. 
In the former Statistical Account, the population, in 1755, is 

stated, on the authority of Dr Webster, to have been 6491. The 
session registers show the average number of births in the parish 
for that period to be 191 per annum. Assuming the record to 
exhibit the total amount of births, and there is redson to believe 
that it does j^o very nearly, this will give one birth to 34 inhabit- 
ants. Applying this principle to the earliest period to which the 
registers extend, the population appears to have been, 

In 1645, . 4760 
In 1745, . 5916 

Taking the number of marriages at the present day, and com- 
paring them with the present population, both of which elements 
are ascertained with the utmost exactness, and assuming the ratio 
to have been the same at the periods specified above, the very 
same results are obtained. A similar calculation proves Dr Web^ 
ster's estimate of the population to have been very near the truth. 



Population in 1792, 




7079 


1801, 




6849 


1811, 




7636 


1821, 




8274 


1831, 




9552— males, 4658 ; females, 4894. 



The population is believed to be still increasing, and the in- 
crease may be mainly attributed to the extension of trade and ma- 
Qu&ctures, 

Population residing in villages in 18*3] , 5667 

in the country, . 3865 

0552 



326 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

The record of births is so imperrectly kept, that the yearly ave- 
rage cannot be ascertained. No record of deaths kept. 

llie yearlj average of mar riagefl for the last seren years is . 78^ 

In 1831, there were of males above 20 years of age, 2301 

under 20, . ^2357 

In 1831, the number of capitalists, professional and other educated men, was 66 
Number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, . ^ 

Of these 20 are residenters. 
Number of fiimUies in laSl, . . . ^Oq6 

employ^ in agriculturcy . .478 

trade and manufactures, 897 

others, . . . • .680 

Number of inhabited houses in 1831, . 1706 

houses uninhabited, . • 81 

building, . . 10 

By the recent census, the population of this parish amounts to 
10,234 — increase from 1831, 684. Of these, however, more than 
2000, including the village of St Ninians itself, are comprehend- 
ed in the Parliamentary burgh of Stirling, so that we cannot enter 
into the same minute detail as at the former enumeration. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — From the great variety of soil and climate, the 

agriculture of this parish cannot be comprehended under one ge- 
neral description. The moorlands are most proGtably employed 
in grazing. The highest and bleakest parts are allotted to sheep, 
of which nearly 4000 are kept. Upwards of 1000 black-cattle 
are annually fed, either along with the sheep, or in lower regions 
where the grass has supplanted the heath. Along the banks of 
tlie Carron, and as you descend to the dryfield, much attention 
is paid by the farmers to the dairy. Several hundred cows are 
kept, and excellent butter and cheese are brought to market. 
Each farmer aims to raise as much grain as may serve his own 
family, though, in unfavourable seasons, he is often disappointed. 
Traces of the plough, as has often been observed elsewhere, arc 
to be met with in our moorlands, where, for many years, perhaps 
ages, no grain has been raised. 

On the sloping grounds, particularly of Sauchie and Touch, a 
number of grass parks are annually let. Some of Sauchie parks 
have been let as high as L. 6 per acre, though the rent, of course, 
varies from year to year, and also according to the quality of the 
grass. 

In the Dryfield there is much excellent land well cultivated, 
interspersed, however, with barren ridges, and tracts of cold, thin, 
damp soil. The improved culture of much of this part of the 
parish is but of recent date. In the memory of persons not far 
advanced in life, a large district, stretching to the Torwood, was 



ST NIN1AN8. 327 

covered with furze and heath. It is now enclosed and cultivated. 
The plantations, whether in clumps or belts, add greatly to the 
beauty of the country, afford shelter, and meliorate the climate. 
But the great means of improvement have been, — clearing the 
land of stones, and the introduction of the system of thorough 
draining, and subsoil ploughing. Both of these have been well 
described, as well as practised, by Mr Smith of Deanston, the 
inventor. 

To illustrate the benefits resulting from this improved mode of 
culture, a few facts may be stated from a farm in the immediate 
vicinity of St Ninians. This farm consists of 100 Scotch acres, 
whereof 38 are allotted to grain crops ; and though it was pre- 
viously cultivated according to the most improved system then in 
existence, even in the most favourable seasons, it produced only 
from 24 to 26 stacks. Since 1836, the whole farm, with the ex- 
ceptioo of 12 acres, has been thoroughly drained, and the num- 
ber of the stacks in the barn-yard last year, 1840, was 42. The 
change, however, is still greater, when thorough draining has 
been introduced on land accounted nearly irreclaimable. A field 
which, previous to 1886, never yielded more than from 10s. to 
15s. per acre, was, in winter 1885-^6, thoroughly drained, and 
immediately after was placed under green crop. The produce of 
one acre of potatoes was measured. It amounted to 93 bolls, 
which, at 5s. the boll, gives L. 23, 5s. : deduct I#. 13 for seed, 
working, and manure, and there remains L. 10, 5s. for the farmer. 
In 1837, the same field was sown with barley, and produced 10 
bolls per acre. After deducting expenses, the farmer had for bis 
share L. 10, 19s. 8d. In the third year it was in hay, of which it 
produced 2^ tons per acre, besides the aftermath. The value 
of the hay alone, at the average price of the season, was L. 11, 5s. 
per acre. It may be added, that this farm has nothing peculiarly 
favourable either in its soil, climate, or exposure. 

In the carses, the system of farming is different from that fol- 
lowed in the dryfield. The rotation of crops in the former is, 1. 
fallow ; 2. wheat ; 3. beans ; 4. barley ; 5. grass ; 6. oats. In 
the latter, 1. oats; 2. turnips, potatoes, or fallow; 3. wheat or 
barley ; 4. clover ; 5. and 6. pasture. There are few stones, and 
no springs of water in the carses, and very little wood. One great 
object is to carry off all stagnant water, and keep the land dry. 
To accomplish this, not only large and clear ditches are neces- 
sary, but wedge or ridge draining is very extensively practised, 
and has been found most beneficial. 



328 STIIILINGSHIIIE. 

The rent of a large portion of the dryBeld is not above L.I9 1(k. ^ 
and an intelligent farmer says, the whole will not average above 
L.2 per acre. Grain rents have been partially introduced into 
the carses, and the worst lands are rated at % and the best at 
3 bolls of wheat per acre. The carse lands to the east of Stirlio|[ 
are supposed to be at least 10s. per acre more valuable than those 
to the west* 

The following is the average quantity of seed sown in the carses 
to the east of Stirling : wheat, 8 bushels ; barley, 4 do. ; beaos, 

6 do. ; oats, 6 do. per acre. 

The average returns per acre, wheat, 10 bolls ; barley, 7 da. ; 
oats, 8 do. ; pease and beans, 1 do. 

Lime is extensively used. Thirty single cart loads of dung, or 

7 chalders of slacked lime per acre, are, in the month of July, hid 
on the fallow ground preparing for wheat. Many carse iarmsare 
about 80 acres ; but, as it is believed 100 acres could be wrought 
by the same strength, it would evidently be more beneBcial to the 
farmer to have them of this extent. 

Besides horses for working the farm, each farmer has a few 
cows ; but there is very little live-stock in the carses, as the lands 
are too valuable for pasture. Their object is merely to keep up 
the supply of horses and cows for themselves. 

Some excellent farm-houses and offices have lately been builtj 
but two-thirds, it is believed, remain in their former homely state, 
and that, too, where rents to a high amount are paid. 

A ploughman's wages, with bed and board, L.16; a servant 
woman, do. do., from L. 6 to L. 7. Many of the men sleep in 
stable lofts and bothies, a practice at once destructive of the ha* 
bits of domestic life, and deeply injurious to their moral cha- 
racter. 

Rent. — The valued rent is L.20,860. The real rent is consi- 
derably above 1^40,000. 

The duration of leases is nineteen years. 

William Murray, Esq. of Touchadam and Polraaise, Vice- 
Lieutenant of the county, and principal heritor of this pa- 
rish, first introduced that system of draining, which was known 
by the appellation of " wedge-draining," but which has since 
been more appropriately designated ** thorough draining." The 
introduction of this leading improvement in agriculture may well , 
lay a claim to be styled an era in tlie rural annals of Scotland, 
being so admirably adapted to its humid climate. The entire 



STNINIANS« 329 

process consists of two distinct objects, viz. thorough*draining and 
subsoil ploughing. 

1. Thorauffh'^raintnff. — This consists in a series of parallel drainsi 
running alt in one elevation, and terminating in a common drain, si* 
tuated in the lowest part, or where the formation of the surface re- 
quires it parts, of the 6eld. This drain is called the main, and is al- 
ways deeper and wider than the parallel drains. It is, moreover, at 
right angles to the others. It is usually three feet deep, a foot to six 
inches in width at the bottom, and four feet wide at the top. These 
dimensions are necessary when the field is large, and even when 
small, if the subsoil be particularly tenacious, and retentive of 
moisture, llie best mode of constructing this drain, is to build 
it with stone and lime in the form of the letter U, and then- co- 
vering it with flags, care being had that the flags do- not come 
nearer to the surface afterwards to be placed upon it, than twenty 
inches, in order that the subsoil plough may meet with no obstruc- 
tion. The soil is then thrown over it, and it is then brought to 
the level of the arable surface, and so nothing is lost Cheaper 
methods have frequently been followed with success, and these 
will easily suggest themselves to the practical farmer, especially 
that one of using a larger sized drain tile, manufactured for the 
purpose, and put in as is usually done in carse fields. The pa* 
rallel drains are cut to the depth of two feet when tiles are to be 
use'd, and to thirty inches when stones can be had. Tiles are 
used almost always in the carse, because stones cannot so easily 
be procured, but in the dryfield the other mode is followed, as 
stones can be procured in sufiicient abundance. The tiles are 
made in the form of, and in the same proportion as the letter U 
inverted, [\ ; but to give the drain a greater degree of durability, 
as well as to prevent vermin from penetrating the soil, and there- 
by choking the drain, a flat tile is also used, upon which the other 
is placed. The soil is then cast into the drain, and the work is 
finished, and the expensive but most efficient improvement is hid 
from observation, working, however, like many of the operations of 
Divine Providence, in an unseen but most efficient manner, in the 
production of extensive benefit to the community. In the dryfield 
the process is somewhat different, as stones which are gathered on 
the field are used instead of the tiles. The drain, as mentioned 
above, being cut to the depth of thirty inches, the stones are broken 
so small as to pass through a ring of two inches and a half in dia- 
meter, and are then thrown into the drain to about the height of 
eight inches. Upon them is then placed a layer of old straw, hay, 



330 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

roots of quickens^ potato shaws, or such other suitable materials at 
can most easily be procured, and upon this an inch or two of the 
most tenacious soil dug out of the drain, which is all well trodden 
down and compacted, so as to present an impenetrable barrier to 
the incumbent productive soil, which is now thrown in, and the 
process is completed. Notwithstanding the elaborate and expen- 
sive nature of these improvements, there is not a doubt but that, 
even as a mercantile speculation, they do abundantly repay tbe 
landlord, andeven the farmer, if he has a long lease ; and without 
that no farmer either would or should undertake them ; but the 
result will exhibit the fact better than any general statements. 

2. Svhsoil Ploughing. — The field being all thoroughly drained, 
as already described, the farmer, especially in the dryfield, is not 
vet satisfied that he has done his utmost to the production of a 
good crop. He therefore avails himself of the invention of James 
Smith, Esq. of Deanston, and sets to subsoil ploughing his fields. 
This is done by means of a large plough, in the shape of an old 
Scotch plough, without a sock, and generally drawn by four horses. 
The method is the following : An ordinary two horse plough al- 
ways goes before, taking the usual depth of furrow, which is fol- 
lowed by the subsoil plough cutting to the depth of about ten inches 
deeper, and removing stones, at least all that do not amount to 
more than from three to four hundred weight, besides stirring ef- 
fectually the subsoil, so that it serves more easily as a percolator, 
in permitting the surface water to find its way into the drains. 
When the plough encounters a stone larger than the horses are 
able to turn out, which is often the case, a lad following the 
plough for the purpose, marks it with a tally. Crowbars are then 
brought to bear upon it, and it is turned out, and broken to assist 
in draining the same or another field. The quantity of work 
done in a day by six horses and three men does not exceed, in 
general, half an acre ; but it completes the utility of the draining 
system, and brings the productive powers of the soil into active 
operation. Another advantage anticipated and realized by tbe 
farmer is, that his manure, even in the wettest seasons, does not 
wholly lose its influence ; whereas in fine or moderate, it produces 
its legitimate effects, and a good crop is always the consequence. 

Quarries and Mines, — There are three freestone quarries, Cats- 
craig, Blackcraig, and Craigbeg, in which 54 quarry men and 15 
labourers are employed. The average wages of the quarrymen 
arc I5s. per week, — the labourers, lis. In the mines the miners 
have 15s. or 16s.; the labourers,- 10s. 6d. 



ST MNUNS. 331 

There is abundance of limestone in the parish, but at present 
it b wrought only in two places, — Craigend and Murray's Hall. 
The stone is found under the huge masses of trap or basaltic rock 
already described, and is wrought by miners. The works are se- 
parated from each other by a deep and narrow gorge, and the 
superincumbent mass appears as if hurled upon a rock of an en- 
tirely different description. The entrance to the mines is near 
the bottom of the precipice ; and the stones, brought out in carts, 
are prepared and burned in kilns close at hand. The lime rock 
is about 5 feet thick ; the roof and bottom are of stone, each from 
nine inches to a foot thick. The dip is to the north-east, at the 
rate of one foot in six or seven. Sales commence about the Ist 
of April, and terminate at Martinmas. Including both. places, 
there are usually 24 miners and 10 labourers employed. The 
wages of the miners are from 1 5s. to 16s. per week ; the labourers 
have 10s. 6d. The miners, perhaps from their exposure to damp, 
are rather liable to rheumatism ; but in general they are healthy, 
though it is seldom that either they or colliers attain to a very 
great age. 

Our coal mines are by far the most valuable in this parish, and 
these have been long and extensively wrought. Auchenbowie 
and Plean are wrought by the proprietors. • Bannockbum and 
Greenyards are held in lease by the same company. The people 
employed at these works are nearly 400. Of these there are 
usually 180 colliers, at 16s. per week, and in general they work 
only ten days in the fortnight There are from 70 to 80 labourers, 
at from 10s. to 12s. per week, excepting those who are placed in 
situations of trust and confidence^ and to whom higher wages are 
allotted. There are upwards of 80 boys and girls, whose wages, 
according to their age and capacity, vary from 9d. to 2s. per day. 
The women are rather above 60 in number, and their wages from 
Is. to Is. 6d. per day. The average wage stated above is what a 
good collier can make, as they are paid at a certain rate, accord- 
ing to the quantity of coals they produce. Nothing is charged for 
their coals, only they must hew them themselves. Houses and 
gardens also are in general provided for them, for which a very 
moderate rent is demanded. 

The quantity of coal produced at all the different works is little, 
if any thing, short of sixty thousand tons. 

Fisheries. — Trout and perch are found in Loch Coulter, and 
n the different streams of the parish ; but the only fisheries de- 



332 STIRLINGSHIRE. 



• 



serving notice are on the Forth. These in general are either let to 
people in Stirling, or so connected with that belonging to the town 
of Stirling, that the account of them falls under the statistics of 
that parish. 

Manufactures. — The manufacture of carpets and tartans has for 
many years been carried on to a great extent in this parish. The 
largest establishments are at Bannockburn ; but in other parts of 
the parish, particularly at Cambusbaron, active and enterprizing 
manufacturers are to be found. The weavers mostly reside in 
villages, though a few of them are still to be met with in thexoun* 
try. Including all the different branches, — spinning, dyeing, veav- 
ing, &c., there are upwards of 1 500 persons employed in this manu- 
facture. When the trade is in a prosperous state, the number of 
men may be stated at rather more than 830, whose weekly wages 
are from lOs. to 12s. ; women nearly 500, and their weekly wages 
are from 6s. to 7s. ; boys and girls upwards of 170, from ds. to 4s. 
per week. The annual average value of goods manufactured may 
be estimated at L. 130,000. 

Ttfii-WjrA*.— There are three tan-works in the parish, two in 
St Ninians and one in Bannockburn. In these, 48 workmen are 
employed, of whom a few are apprentices. Twenty-three are tan- 
ners, and one skinner, whose wages average 12s. weekly; and 
24 curriers, at 14s. weekly. They are, in general, more healthy 
than any other class of tradesmen. The value of the goods tan- 
ned may be stated at L. 16,000, and the goods that are curried 
at L. 12,000, of which above one-third are foreign hides, and skins 
imported in the hair ; and the other two-thirds are the produce 
of the country around. 

Nailers, — There are 200 nailers. They make from 1000 to 
1200 nails in the day. Their working hours are long, and their 
wages small : 8s. or 9s. per week. 

Brick and Tile- Work. — The only brick and tile-work in this jia- 
rish is at Throsk, at which 26 men are employed: wages, 16s. 
and lis. per week. 

Distilleries. — Not many years ago there were six distilleries in 
this parish. At present we have only one, at Chartreshall. From 
the 11th of October 1839, to 11th October 1840, they consum- 
ed 23,490 bushels of barley. Formerly, there were a number of 
brewers in St Ninians, now we have only one, nor does he carrv 
on business to a great extent. 

4 



ST NINIANS. 333 

Malt is made at St Ninians, Bannockburn, and Sauchenford. 
The yearly average quantity is 28,980 bushels. 

V, — Parochial Economy. 

MarkeUTown, — There is no market-town in the parish. Stir- 
ling, distant about one mile from the village and parish church of 
St Ninians, is the market-town of the district ; but many of the 
agriculturists in the eastern parts of the parish attend the weekly 
market of Falkirk ; and the graziers frequently repair both to Ed- 
inburgh and Glasgow. 

Villages. — Besides a considerable portion of the suburbs of Stir* 
ling, which is in this parish, we have the village of St Ninians, 
containing, according to the census of 1841, 1480 inhabitants. 
The chief trades carried on in it are nail-making and tanning of 
leather, with the manufacture of tartans and shawls to a less ex- 
tent. Bannockburn, 1987 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the ma- 
nufacture of carpets, tartans, and shawls. This village has increas- 
ed rapidly, within the last thirty or forty years. Cambusbaron, 
428 inhabitants ; trade, wool -spinning, tartan and shawl manufac- 
tures. 

Means of Communication, — The villages of St Ninians and Ban- 
nockburn enjoy each the benefit of a receiving post-office ; but the 
delivery, in both cases, is from the post-office in Stirling, by means 
of a daily runner. The great post road from Edinburgh to the 
north by Stirling, traverses the parish from its eastern boundary 
to its confines with Stirling, a distance of about six miles ; whilst 
the Glasgow post-road to the same town passes through the pa- 
rish from south to north, a distance of about four miles, joining 
the Edinburgh road at the village of St Ninians. The coaches 
firom the north to Glasgow, by the way of Stirling, and from Stirling 
both to Glasgow and Edinburgh, all pass through this parish by 
the roads just described. The road from Dunbarton to the ferry 
near Alloa runs through this parish, for about twelve miles; and 
there is also an excellent road from Carron-bridge to Randieford, 
which, to the inhabitants in the higher parts of the parish, opens 
up the way both to Glasgow and Edinburgh. There are nume- 
rous small bridges, but none of them deserving particular notice. 
A project is in agitation for a branch railway from Stirling, to join 
the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway near Falkirk, which, when 
executed, will traverse the eastern part of this parish. AInjost all 
the lands in the parish are enclosed, the fences in the carses and 
low grounds consisting of thorn-hedges, and those in the uplands 



334 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

of dry stone dikes, ��� a small part of the higher moors are onen- 
closed. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The following report was given in by the 
kirk session to the Religions Instruction Commissioners in 18S7: 
— *^ The parish church was built in 1750. It contains upwards 
of 1500 sittings, and has never been either altered or enlarged. 
The whole church, with the exception of a seat for the minister, 
and another for the elders, is divided among the heritors ; and no 
seats are allotted, either for the poor, or for the inhabitants of the 
villages. More than 200 seats are behind the pulpit, in whicb it 
is difficult either to see or hear; while several of the best, belong* 
ing to non-resident heritors, are seldom if ever occupied. The 
real value of the church is thus greatly lessened to the parisbioD* 
ers ; many of whom have to pay for their seats, and more would 
willingly do so, could they find suitable accommodation for them- 
selves and families." 

From an early period iC was found that one church and one mi* 
nister were altogether inadequate for a parish so populous and ex- 
tensive. An assistant minister, a place of worship at Buckieburo, 
and an abortive attempt for a new erection at Sauchenford, — so 
far as appears from the records, — were the only exertions made to 
remedy the evil, during the whole of the eighteenth century. 
There was a chapel at Buckiebum in 1697, which seems after- 
wards to have been pulled down. A contention arose among the 
people in the muirlands, whether their place of worship should be 
erected at Buckiebufn or at Kirk o' Muir ; and, during this time, 
the minister and assistant preached in the open air. At last, 
Buckiebum was fixed upon, and the present chapel was erected 
about the middle of the last century. It was thoroughly repaired 
and reseated about ten years ago. Much obscurity hangs over the 
institution of the assistant. A regular agreement for the support 
of one is entered into in Mr Gibson's time ; but, instead of a new 
institution, they speak of an assistant as having been of old esta- 
blished in the parish. In 1746, Mr Mackie raised a considerable 
sura in London, as a fund from which the assistant should be paid. 
The heritors got possession of this as poor's money in 1 780 ; and, 
in 1785, the assistant was put upon the teinds of the parish. 

A new church, containing 900 sittings, has been recently erect- 
ed in Bannockburn, to which a minister has been ordained, and a 
territory or quoad sacra parish, containing 3176 inhabitants, has 
been set apart. He has a bond for L.80 ; but it is understood 



ST NINIANS. 335 

that the managers do not limit themselves to that sum. The sti- 
pend is raised from the seat-rents, which are moderate, and by the 
collections at the church doors. 

To the eastward of Ba-burn another new church has also been 
erected at Plean, to which a quoad sacra parish, containing 885 
inhabitants} has been allotted. A minister has been ordained, who 
has a bond for L. 80 ; but, as he is in the receipt of a liberal sa- 
lary as chaplain of Plean Hospital, he makes no demand upon his 
people. The collections at the church door are expended, partly 
in defraying expenses, and partly in relieving the poor. 

Both these churches are well attended, and are of great benefit 
to the parish, — Ba-burn, by accommodating the dense population 
in its immediate vicinity, and Plean, in making provision for an ex- 
tensive rural district, remote from any other place of worshii). 
Still, as was stated in the report already alluded to, ^* the relief 
afforded is but partial either as to population or extent. The po- 
pulation of St Ninians is still upwards of 6000 ; and as the new 
erection at Ba-burn is only one mile and a quarter from the pa« 
rish church — as many of the inhabitants of the new parish arc 
within a mile of St Ninians, and very few of them more than two 
miles distant, it can do little in removing the inconvenience aris- 
ing from the farthest boundary being more than ten miles from 
either place of worship." Plean is between four and five miles 
from St Ninians, and the nearest of its parishioners are three 
miles from the parish church; but it is in the same direction with 
Ba-burn ; and whilst ample provision has been made for this dis- 
trict, the lower carses and the muirlands are as destitute as they 
were before. Buckieburn is five miles to the south-west, and the 
parish extends as far down the carses in the opposite direction. 
Between St Ninians and Airth there are eight miles of higlily 
cultivated carse lands, thickly inhabited, in which no place of wor- 
ship is to be found. At Damhead of Thuk, a mile from our 
north-eastern boundary, and midway between St Ninians and 
Airth, a site has been fixed upon, and money subscribed, for the 
erection of a school-house and preaching station. Within a mile 
and a half of this place, there are above 500 souls, all of whom 
are -more than two, and many of them three and four miles dis- 
tant from any church or meeting-house. Were public worship 
regularly maintained at Damhead, and in the muirlands, — and at 
small expense this might be accomplished, — the parish of St Ni- 
nians might still be accounted too populous and extensive; but 



336 STIRLINGSHIKK. 

much would be done to remedy these evils, and the complaint so 
frequent, and so just, of distance from any place of worship, would 
in a great measure be removed. 

The manse was built in 1809, and, though somewhat damp, is rather 
a comfortable house. The glebe contains four acres of arable land, 
which, along with the grass glebe, yields L. 30 of annual rent 
The stipend is nineteen chalders, one-half meal and one-half bar- 
ley. There is an assistant minister, for whom provision has been 
made out of the teinds, to the amount of L.50 per annum, which, 
by voluntary subscription through the parish, is raised to above 
L. 100 a year. 

In 1788, the right of patronage was purchased by the parish, 
the price was upwards of L.600. Every head of a family in full 
communion with the establishment has a right to vote in the elec- 
tion of a minister. The right of presentation is now lodged with 
a committee of nine, consisting of three heritors, three elders, 
three heads of families. The members of this committee are 
chosen by the people, and hold their places for life, if they con- 
tinue in full communion with the Establishment. The committee 
is obliged to present, in due time, whatever candidate is recom* 
mended by the majority of votes. 

There is in St Ninians a Relief meeting-house, containing up- 
wards of 1300 sittings, the minister of which has L. 190 of stipend ; 
a manse and garden with one acre of ground. There is another 
meeting-house in Ba-burn connected with the United Secession; 
the minister has L. 80 of stipend. 

At all these places of worship, divine service is generally well at- 
tended, andanumber of the parishioners, besides, are connected with 
the different congregations in Stirling. By a census taken by the 
kirk-session in 1 834, it appears that 4428 individuals belonged to 
the Established Church, and that 4839 were connected with other 
denominations. Since that time, those connected with the Esta- 
blishment have considerably increased. Previous to the new erec- 
tions the number of communicants in the Establishment was about 
1200. Still, nearly 1000 belong to the parish church, and as there 
are a goodly number at Plean, and a much larger number at Ba-buro, 
it is evident that a very considerable increase, both of hearers and 
communicants, has taken place since these churches were opened. 
The new church at Ba-burn was opened in October 1838---that 
of Plean in March 1839 ; but at Plean, they had regular worship 
on Sabbath in a large room, at the cottage, for some time before. 



ST NINIANS. 337 

Since the year 1774, there has been a regular assessment in the 
parish) and the collections at the church door have, of course, been 
trifling. Taking the two years before Bannockburn and Plean 
were separated from us, the collections were. 

May. For the poor. For religiouf purposes. 

1837, - L.64 7 4 . 1837, . L.a4 19 10 

1838, - ^ 13 7 - 1838, - 12 12 8 
The two yean since 

tbeylcftus, . 1839, - 55 16 7 - 1839, . 47 

1840, . 56 1 6 . 1840, . 63 5 

Education. — There are 19 schools in the parish, of which 
one is parochial, with the legal accommodations ; and three others 
are slenderly endowed, one by a mortification, and the other two by 
the bounty of a benevolent lady. The branches generally taught 
are reading, writing, and accounts. Besides these branches, Latin, 
Greek, French, geography, and mathematics, are taught in the pa- 
rish school, where an assistant is kept. The salary is the maximum, 
and the school fees vary from 2s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. There are two 
or three places, in the remote parts of the parish, in great need of 
schools. The people are too few, and too poor, either to build a 
school-house or to support a teacher. Most parents are zealous 
for the education of their children ; but a spirit of indifference is 
certainly increasing. This will be ascribed by some to the num* 
ber of strangers who come amongst us to our public works — by 
others to the very low wages of many workmen, sinking their spi- 
rits, and rendering them careless about their children. But per- 
haps the most prolific source of the evil is the wages which the 
children at an early period can gain, — thus relieving the parents 
of their support, and rendering them too soon independent The 
children of miners, nailers, and spinners, are most exposed to this 
evil, nor can it be repaired by thehr attendance either at week- 
day evening or Sabbath evening schools. 

Libraries. — There are several libraries in the parish, some of 
them containing about 500 volumes. Those connected with parti- 
cular congregations consist generally of religious publications. 
There are others which admit works of general literature. 

Charitable Institutions. — The late Francis Simpson, Esq. of 
East Plean, who died March 1831, nominated certain trustees, 
to whom he left, in lands and money, between L. 2000 and L. 8000 
of annual income, for the benefit of indigent old men ; sailors and 
soldiers to have a preference. The funds have already been in- 
creased, and will, ere long, be still farther augmented, by certain 

STIRLING. '- Y 



338 STIRLINGSHFRE. 

annuities and liferents, which fall to the institution. Mr Simpson 
had built a large and comfortable cottage, and the trustees, by a 
suitable addition, at once completed the plan, and greatly increas- 
ed the accommodation. In this asylum, there are at present thirty 
inmates, who are comfortably lodged, fed, and clothed, and to each 
of whom a little pocket-money also is allowed. Nor are their spi- 
ritual interests neglected. The trustees gave the ground on which 
the new church of Plean is built, and contributed most liberally to 
its erection. A portion of it is allotted for the accommodation of 
the old men. The Scriptures are r^ad, and prayers offered up 
rooming and evening in the asylum, whilst the chaplain is the 
ordained minister of the church, and takes the pastoral superinten- 
dence of an extensive surrounding district 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers on 
the regular poor's roll of the parish may average 140, — and 
the allowance to each varies from 2s. to 7s. 6d. per month, ac- 
cording to the degree of poverty of the parties. In addition to 
this, relief, to a considerable extent, both to those on the roll and 
others, is granted by the kirk-session out of funds at their dispo- 
sal. The legal parochial assessment averages about L. 250 per 
annum, and mortified funds in the hands of the kirk-session yield 
L. 120 a-year of interest. There are very few cases in which the 
poor manifest a disposition to refrain from seeking parochial re- 
lief; nor do they appear to consider it as degrading. Sometimes 
a distinction is made between what is collected at the church door 
and what is contributed by the heritors. No reluctance is ever ex- 
pressed at receiving from the heritors, — the feeling seems to be 
that they give too little. 

About fifty years ago, William Werdie, Esq. of Cambusbarroo, 
leftL. 1120 to the kirk -session of St Ninians, the interest of which 
they are, on the 4th day of October, " to divide among the poor- 
est inhabitants of St Ninians, not being common beggars." This 
has been thought to operate injuriously to the town ; and a wish 
has often been expressed, that it were extended to the whole pa- 
rish. 

A few years before his death, Mr Simpson, the founder of Plean 
Asylum, at the desire of his son, gave L. 500 to the kirk-ses- 
sion of St Ninians, the interest of which they are requested " so 
to divide among the poor as not to relieve the heritors from their 
bounden duty of supporting them." 

Mr Greenock of Whitehouse left L. 500 to the kirk-session ; 



ST NINIANS. 339 

L.10 of the interest of which is to be given to the schoolmaster 
of Cambusbarron. The rest of the interest is at the disposal of 
the session for pious uses ; and it is generally expended in edu- 
cating orphans or children, whose parents are either unable or un- 
willing to pay for their instruction, and in supplying them with 
Bibles and Testaments. 

The late Mr M'Gibbon of Greenyards left L. 200 ; and Mrs 
Brotherstone of Touch, L. 50, to the poor, without any direction 
or restriction as to the mode in which it was to be employed. 

Fairs. — An annual fair for cattle, held in June at Broxbrae, part 
of the field of Bannockbum, is fast sinking into insignificance. The 
annual fair held at the east end of Newmarket, in the neighbourhood 
of Bannockburn,is on the contrary rising into importance; — a large 
number of cattle, especially milk cows, and a large number of 
horses, are exposed for sale. This market is attended by dealers 
from Edinburgh, Glasgow, and all the country around. 

Ale-hauses. — We have few places in the parish deserving the 
name of inns, but our ale-houses and spirit shops are by far too 
numerous ; and they are very injurious, both to the morals and 
temporal comfort of the people. To them may be traced a large 
portion of the crime, poverty, ignorance, and misery of the work- 
ing classes of society. 

FueL — Coal is generally used in the lower parts of the parish 
for fuel ; and along with this, a portion of peat is frequently made 
use of in the uplands. The coals are obtained at the different coal- 
works in our own neighbourhood. 

Jtme 1841. 



ERRATA. 
Page 317) line 3 from bottom, insert after number, ** the sums paid by." 
318, 13,,/&r Auchintowie read Auchinbowie. 
318, \%for tiospiul rtad Hospitals. 
335, 82, /or Thuk read Throsk. 



PARISH OF LARBERT.* 

PRESBYTERY OF STIRLING^ SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. JOHN BONAR, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The name Larbert was formerly written Lairbert 
scheills, Laithbert scheills, and Lethbert scheills, — which signifies 
the scheilh or huts of the man named Lairbert or Laithbert 
This parish of Larbert is united quoad sacra to the parish of Duni- 
pace. At present, we speak of Larbert parish proper, the form 
of which is nearly elliptical, — the measures of the transverse and 
conjugate axis being nearly 3 and 2^ miles ; while the superficial 
extent is about 4| square miles, or about 2700 acres. 

Boundaries, — The river Carron is the boundary oil the & 
and S.S. £• for a distance of 2^ miles. The parish of Duni- 
pace bounds the west and north-west, to a distance of 2^ miles; 
on the north, the little river, the Pow of Airth, pronounced Poo.f 
To a distance of 1^ mile on the north-east and south-east, the 
parishes of Airth and Bothkennar form the marches. 

Topographical Appearances and Soil, — The parish slopes gra- 
dually from south-west to north-east. The mansion-house of 
Larbert, the most elevated point of the parish, and probably 
about 100 feet above the sea, is situated on an eminence which 
descends abruptly to the Carron, and more gradually towards the 
east for 500 yards, when the gr^at body of the land of the parish 
becomes a table slightly inclined to the east, terminating iu the 
lower or eastern part, in a more decided declivity on the estates 
of Kinnaird and Carron Hall. From all parts of the parish, 
the view is beautiful and commanding. It comprehends that 

• Drawn up by Lieu^-Col. Dundas and W. A. Cadell, Esq. 

f The word Poo signifies a sluggish stream. It is derived from the same root as 
the English word pool, and the Latin palua, Tlie Poo has a great part of its course 
in the flat ground of the carse, and consequently is a slow running stream. Powis, two 
miles north of Larbert, and Powis, two miles ea t of Stirling, signify Poo House, 
i. c. the house near the Poo. 



LARBERT. 341 

part of the river Forth which extends from near Stirling as 
far as Queensferry; on the south and east, the rich carses of 
Bothkennar, Falkirk, and Borrowstowness, containing the opulent 
towns of Falkirk and Grangemouth, with numerous thriving vil* 
lages. The Carron Iron-works and many other works are finely 
contrasted with the prospect to the west of the beautiful range 
of the Ochills, * deeply indented by ravines, — thus present- 
ing so many faces to be dimpled by the shadows of the passing 
clouds. 

Climate. — The climate of Larbert is a mean between that of 
Edinburgh and Glasgow, from which cities it is nearly equidis- 
tant. The prevailing wind, as may be seen by the bent of the trees, 
is from the south-west ; but it is not laden with so much rain as 
near Glasgow, while the rage of the east wind is somewhat subdued, 
as compared with Edinburgh. An illustration of this fact occurs 
at the time of writing this Account The continued gales from the 
east, accompanied by snow, have impeded all agricultural opera* 
tions in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, — whilst in Larbert parish, 
the sowing of beans has been long completed, nearly all the oats 
are in the ground, and the land is cloven, and a dry bed is ready 
for the reception of the barley. This is, however, an extreme 
case ; but as it occurred under our own inspection, and at so op- 
portune a moment, it is recorded. Five days later, a heavy fall 
of snow covered Larbert to the depth of three or four inches ; be- 
fore noon, we were in Edinburgh, where no snow had fallen. It 
soon disappeared at Larbert. 

It appears, however, that the climate of Larbert is not so mild 
as the climate of Edinburgh and the climate of Greenock, being 
more inland than these two places, i. e, the mean temperature of 
the winter months is probably somewhat colder at Larbert than 
the mean temperature of the winter mouths at Edinburgh or 
at Greenock ; and this is shown by the growth of plants which re- 
quire a mild temperature. For instance, the laurustinusj (Vibur^ 
num tinus, Lin.), a native of the country near Rome, &c most com- 
monly supports the winter's cold at Edinburgh and Greenock^ 

• The Ochills arc composed of porphyritic rocks of the trap formation. Benclach, 
which is the hij^hest summit of the ridge, is situated above the parish town of Alva, 
and U about 2000 feet above the level of the sea. The trigonometrical survey of Bri- 
tain, conducted by the Board of Ordnance, had a station on the summit of Benclacb 
about 1810, and one of the geometers of the detachment engraved and published a 
tiew of tlie whole circle of the horizon seen from Bcnclach, forming a panorama of 
the hills seen Grdki that station. 



342 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

whereas this shrub is frequently killed by the winter's cold at Lar« 
bert, and I think also at Glasgow. 

Harhcwrsj Rivery and small Streams.'^The tide rises io the 
Canon, as high as the Carron Iron- works, t. e. the surfiM» 
of high water is nearly on a level with the lowest point of 
the water-wheels. The village of Carronshore (formerly Qua- 
role shore) was a port of some little consequence, rising on 
the ruin of the harbour of Airtb, as it has declined under the 
more favourably situate Grangemouth. Carronshore is still em- 
ployed by the Carron Company, for the landing lime and iron- 
stone, and there is a dry dock used by the same company; a 
double-way iron rail-road connects it with the Carron Iron-works. 
The river is capable of bearing vessels of 150 tons burthen as high 
as Carronshore, and even up to the iron-works at spring-tides; but 
the winding of the river makes the operation of tracking tedious 
and uncertain. The deposit on the banks is a &t black loam, 
and*sea-dikes are maintained to protect the low land. These are 
frequently injured at some of the acute windings of the stream, 
when the spring-tide is accompanied by a gale from the north wind 
Above the Carron Iron-works, the bed of the river is rocky, show- 
ing sections of the strata of sandstone belonging to the coal-6ekl, 
covered in many places by gray gravel which has been borne down 
by the spates. Salmon formerly abounded in the Carron, but 
that valuable article of food has been banished by the Carron 
works and other works, which have dammed up the water, and di- 
verted the stream from its natural course, and thereby prevented 
the salmon from going up the river to spawn. A small stream, 
the Chapelburn, rising in the centre of the parish, after a 
run of about a mile and a-half, falls into the Carron, above 
Carronshore. Even this streamlet is forced into the service of 
trade, and turns two mills in its course. The small part of the 
Pow of Airth, which forms, for a short distance, one of the boun- 
daries of the parish, is winding and sluggish. Although not ex- 
ceeding fourteen feet in breadth, it is only fordable after a long 
course of dry weather. 

The perennial springs in the parish are naturally good, but the 
surface springs, and those near the surface, have been in many 
places cut off, in the lower part of the parish, by the coal-workiugs. 
There can be little doubt, that a supply of water might be obtain- 
ed by boring below the floor of the deepest pits, when water might 
be found, whose spring-heads lie in the neighbouring hills. 



LARBERT. 343 

GtoUgy-^AUuoial Deposit. — The Carron, from Dunipace to 
Dorrator and SteDhouse, runs in a flattish haugh, which varies in 
breadth in different places. This haugh is bounded on each side 
by sloping banks of sand. The inclination of these banks is va- 
rious. The top of the banks near the Carron Iron-works is about 
75 feet above the level of the sea. From the top of the bank, the 
surface of the ground extends, in some places nearly level, in others 
at different angles of elevation, to the low hills which bound the 
valley. These banks are the section, or, in other words, the face 
of the alluvial deposit which, on the left bank of the river, extends 
back to the sandstone heights of the Torwood. In some parts of 
the Torwood, the sandstone is at the surface and bare. The sand- 
stone is also bare and comes to-day in some parts of the bed of 
tlie river, as at Larbert bridge. This alluvial deposit, of which the 
baugh is an excavation, was probably formed in the sea, at a re- 
mote period, anterior to all historical record ; the land, as several 
geologists maintain, having been afterwards heaved up to its pre- 
sent height, by the action of the melted matter in the interior of 
the globe. Such elevations of the land in some cases happen very 
slowly and gradually, as the elevation of the land of Sweden on 
the shores of the Baltic, which is now observed to be going on. 
That an elevation of the land has taken place in Britain, at a pe- 
riod subsequent to the deposition of alluvium, is inferred from the 
ancient sea-beaches or sea-strands, marked by oyster and other 
shells, which are found 30 or 40 feet, or more, above the level of 
the sea at many places of the coasU 

After the sand and other alluvial matter was deposited by the 
sea, forming an alluvial bank, part of it has been carried away by 
the stream of the river and the tides, so as to form the haugh ot 
the Carron, and through this haugh the river now runs. The 
river, in the course of ages, has gradually changed its course to 
different parts of the haugh, according to the various obstacles 
which the stream met with. At Dunipace, the river has worn away 
much of the alluvial deposit, so that the haugh at that place is a 
|>retty extensive piece of level ground. In this piece of level 
ground, the river has left two insulated mounts, which are part of 
the alluvial deposit. 

SandU — In some of the sandy parts of the alluvial deposit, the 
sand is in fine grains without admixture of small stones. This fine 
sand is employed for sand-moulding at the Carron Iron-works. 
Other parts of the alluvial deposit consist of coarser sand, of small 



344 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

gravel, of mixtures of clay and sand called till| and in some places 
of clay. 

J?0uU^r^.— Boulders, t. e. large stones rounded by attrition ie 
water, are found, but not in great number. Most of them are of 
rocks belonging to the trap formation, fragments probably of the 
rocks of the adjacent Kilsyth hills, in which hills the Carron has 
its source^ There occur a few quartzose boulders from primitive 
schistose rocks, but these are much fewer in number than the boul- 
ders of trap formation. Near Stenhou^^, Carronhall, and Kinnaird, 
the alluvial banks of sand lie upon the extensive alluvial deposit of 
clay, of which the carse of Bothkennar and of Falkirk consists. 
This deposit of clay is of considerable depth in some places, aod 
lies upon coal measures, the coal of which is worked in different 
places. A few feet under the surface of the ground in the carse^ 
is found a stratum of shells of oyster, mussel, and other species, 
similar to the species of shells found in the adjacent seas. 

At Stenhouse, Carronhall, and Kinnaird, which overlook the 
carse, the aspect of the alluvial banks is towards the Frith of 
Forth ; and from the situation of these banks it may be conjectured, 
that they were formerly the shore of the frith, at a time when the 
flat surface of the carse was covered by the sea, and when the 
haugh of the Carron was a bay, estuary, or tide-river. 

Sandstone and CoflZ-meosMre^.— Under the whole of the alluvial 
deposit is sandstone and the accompanying coal-measures; and in 
these coal-measures, several valuable seams of coal are worked at 
Carronhall and Kinnaird. The coal-measures also contain strata 
of balls of clay ironstone, which are worked. These strata of 
ironstone contain impressions of the trunks and stalks of various 
fossil plants of extinct species, amongst which are found several of 
the species described in the fossil flora of Brongniart, and in that of 
Lindley and Hutton ; amongst which, are plants analogous to the 
tree-fern of the West Indies and to other tropical species, and which, 
together with the other plants of which the remains form the coal 
seams, grew, it would appear, at or near this point of the earth's 
surface, at a remote geological period, before the globe had cooled 
down to its present temperature, and when the temperature at this 
place was as warm as it is now within the tropics. 

It was the abundance of coal and ironstone in the adjacent couDtry 
which, in 1766, induced Messrs Roebuck, Garbet, and Cadelk? 
the original proprietors of the Carron Company, to establish tho 
extensive iron-smelting works of that Company in this parish. 



LARBERT. 345 

Coal'Meawres. — The whole of the eastern part of the parish is 
well stored with coaL Five seams have been discovered, and 
more or less worked. The lowest of these seams crops out in the 
western part of the Kinnaird and Carron Hall properties. The 
dip b usoally to the north*east, and the coal field is intejfsected by 
several dikes ; one large one runs through whole fields. 

The following is a list of the seams of coal and stone, as they 
occur. Under from 6 to 16 feet of slate clay, called in the country 
Blaes, (probably from its colour,) and a post of sandstone rock, 
lies the 1«^, two feet coal, about 2 feet in thickness. This seam 
b not valuable in itself, but has frequently been wrought on ac- 
count of fire clay of excellent quality, which lies near it. Passing 
through nine fathoms of different stone metals, and a-whitefree sand- 
stone above the coal, is, 2^, the crow coal, of three feet in thick- 
ness, of the sort named cubical, a valuable, clear burning, house- 
hold coal. Again, nine fathoms of mixed metals occur, and under a 
strong freestone is, Sdy the main coal, of three feet two inches 
thickness. The upper part of this seam^is fine splint. The lower part 
is strong cubical coal mixed with ribs of splint. Fourteen fathoms 
lower, is 4/A, the Cox road coal ; and 5/A, the lower Cox road, at a 
farther depth of ten feet. But these two seams are very irregular. 
In some places, the two are found distinct, and of a thickness of 
from eighteen to thirty inches each. In other places, one of the 
seams is lost. Above the higher seam of Cox road, some ball-iron- 
stone of excellent quality is found. The drf, or main coal, is well 
adapted for cooking, as is one of the Cox road seams, although it 
is of less value, from its being frequently intersected by horizontal 
lamina of very hard sandstone. This coal has been worked from 
the crop from time immemorial, but it was not till the establish- 
ment of Carron Iron-works that it was worked from the dip. 

The first steam-engine on this coal-field was erected by Mr 
Dundas of Carron Hall, in the year 1760.* The collieries of 
Carron Hall and Kinnaird are now in the hands of the Carron 
Company, who employ about 150 mining colliers. 

Sandstone. — A fine freestone, t. e. sandstone, was formerly ob- 
tained at Carron Hall, situated considerably above the highest 

• The earliest steam-engine I have heard of in this part of the country, was one 
for pumping water from the colHery of Elphinston, in the parish of Airth. This 
steam-engine was erected, prolwibly about 1 745 or 1750. The cylinder and other 
parts were of brass or bronze. Cast iron had not then come unto use. About 100 
years have elapsed since that time, and cast-iron, during that period, has gradudlj 
come to be used for a very great variety of purposes. 



346 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

seam of coal. This quarry has been filled up. The stone found 
under the seams of coal^ that is, in the western part of the parish, 
b of a very inferior nature. The stone for building is therrfore 
brought from a considerable distance. 

Ironstone. — Several strata of ironstone are found in the coal* 
measures in this parish, and in the adjacent country ; and the 
ironstone from these strata is wrought and smelted at the Carron 
Iron-works. The ironstone of the coal-measures is arranged by 
some chemists under the name of amorphous lithoidal carbonate 
of iron. 

This kind of ironstone has long been smelted with coke in Staf- 
fordshire, Shropshire, and other parts of England and Wales, and 
at Carron, in this parish, since 1760. But the iron in other parts 
of Europe is obtained by smelting other kinds of iron ore, and not 
from the ironstones of the coal measures. 

The smelting of the ironstone of the coal-measures has been 
only recently introduced into France, namely, about 1816, when 
a blastfurnace, after the model of the English ones, was erected 
at St Etienne, by a company of proprietors there, to smelt in the 
English way the ironstone which is found in the coal-measures at 
St Etienne. English blast-furnaces, however, were erected at 
Creuzot, 12 miles south of Autun, by the brother of the great 
English iron-master, John Wilkinson, about 1780; but they did 
not use the ironstone of the coal-measures. 

Soil. — The soil in the east end of the parish is, for the most part, 
good. It may be rated at a rent of from six to eight bushels of 
wheat per acre. A belt of above a mile in breadth crosses the cen- 
tre of the parish, nearly from north to south. This is of a light 
sandy nature, with a subsoil of till, a most untoward association, 
white sand and till. The land again improves to the westward. 

Draining of Arable Land, — The modern improved method of 
draining is now, in 1837, 1838, 1839, 1840, &c. much practised 
in the parish, and all the country round. The drain is made as 
deep as the declivity to carry off the water, will allow. One of 
these drains is made in each furrow of the ploughed field. Aline 
of tiles is placed at the bottom of the drain to form tbe channel, in 
which the water runs. About 1837, a considerable tile-work for 
making drain tiles was established by Mr Stirling of Glenbervie, 
on the beds of clay in the low ground near the Poo. Two or three 
years after, another tile-work for making drain tiles was established 
near the same place by Mr Bauchop. 



LARBBRT. 347 

Mossei in Pasiun. — That species of moss, called by botanists 
Hypnum squarraswn^ and some other species of Hypnum^ all which 
mosses are named ^^ in this part of the country, are very frequent 
in our pastures. They abound on dry sandy soils, as well as on 
moist ground. These mosses are not nutritive to cattle. It is 
said that black-cattle and sheep, when they have taken a mouthful 
of grass mixed with moss, reject the moss, and throw it out of 
their mouth, and swallow the grass and other nutritious plants only. 
The seeds of these hypna are very small grains, which have the 
appearance of a 6ne dust or powder. These seeds are shed and 
widely diffused by the wind. They fall everywhere, and spring up 
into mosses in every field. 

The mosses increase in quantity as the pasture gets older, and 
after some years have elapsed, the quantity of moss in the pasture 
b greater in weight than the quantity of grasses and other nutri- 
tive plants. The pasture now contains little grass, and is unfit for 
feeding cattle advantageously. 

To destroy the moss, and bring the field again into good pasture, 
the ground must be ploughed and subjected to a rotation of crops 
for five or six years, and at the end of that time again laid down in 
grass. It thus happens, that in our climate old pastures are unfit 
for feeding cattle advantageously, being overgrown with mosses, and 
containing little grass, whilst in different parts of England, some 
degrees farther south than our parallel, the warmth, and other cir« 
cumstances, being less favourable to the propagation of mosses, 
and more favourable to the growth of grass, an old pasture is com- 
posed of spontaneous grasses and other nutritive plants, affording 
abundant food for cattle. With us, the spontaneous plants in an 
old pasture are chiefly mosses, and the pasture affords little food. 
There, the spontaneous plants are grasses and other nutritive spe- 
cies, affording abundance of food. In Holland, also, in parallels 
Q^ and 4 degrees south of our parallel of 56"" T, the old pastures 
give abundance of food fit for fattening cattle. 

Forest Trees. — The district, of which Larbert forms a part, is 
not considered to be highly favourable to the growth of timber. 
On the table-land of the parish, there is a young wood of some 40 
acres, and some smaller plantations. The fir seldom attains sixty 
years on that soil, and there are no trees of a large size. In the 
lower part of the parish, are some trees of a very large size, in the 
Park of Kinnaird. Near the House, are some oaks of a large 
girth, and a fine avenue of limes. Near the House of Carron 



348 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Hall, stands a Wych elm, of singular beauty, which, at 5^ feet 
from the ground, girths 166 inches, or nearly 14 feet. There are 
also several Huntingdon willows* of nearly 12 feet girth. The 
timber of the Huntingdon willow is of great value, combining 
toughness with lightness ; and, in the deep soil of the Carse, the 
growth is so rapid, that a willow having been cut down in the year 
1806, two shoots were allowed to remain till the spring of 1821. 
The remaining tree now girths 70 inches, and contains at least 45 
feet of timber. In the light soil of the upper part of the parish, 
the Huntingdon willow does not grow to so great a size as in the 
Carse. We subjoin a note of the growth of six trees, measured 
at different periods, to ascertain the rate of increase. 

Note of Trees growing at Carron Hall. Girths. 

Measurement of at 
5\ feet from the ground. 
Bent oak, ... 

Wide-topped oak, 
Clear ash. 
Beech, 'No. I, 
Beech, No. 2. - 

Plane or sycamore, Acer pieudo-platauus of Linn6, 

It is worthy of remark, that the two beeches stand within 20 
feet of each other, and that No. 1 continues to thrive, whilst its 
neighbour has a less healthy appearance. 

Bishop Watson says, as soon as a tree is worth a guinea, the 
most profitable plan is to cut it down. This we may suppose to 
have been an oak of seven to eight feet, solid measure ; and such 
the Bishop, who took great pleasure in his woods, deemed ripe 
for the axe. 

The oak in this climate does not grow to the size which it at- 
tains in Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, Berkshire, Hampshire, and 
other parts of England. There was, however, 50 years ago, a re- 
markable oak in this neighbourhood on the lands of Blairs, two miles 
north of Larbert. It was called Wallace's tree. When I saw it 
about 1 794, there remained only a part of the outer shell and 

• Tlie Huntingdon willow, Sali.x alba of Linnjpus, called in some parts of England 
the Leicestershire willow. There is another species of tree willow in this part of the 
country, which grows to a considerable size, hut docs not afford such straight welU 
furroed timber as the Huntingdon willow. The Huntingdon willow is propagated 
by cuttings, which are poles of about seven feet in length. A hole, of a foot or eigh* 
teen inches in depth, and just wide enough to admit the pole, is made by means of a 
eylindrical iron bar, or by a large kitchen poker, which is rammed into the ground, 
ISO as to form a hole, and into the hole the thick end of the pole is inserted, and i<; fix- 
ed by pressing inwards the sides of the hole. 



1815. 1821. 


1822. 


1826. 


Idas. 


53 in. 561 in. 


57 in. 


60 in. 


671 in. 


48 534 


54 


m 


6H 


41 46 


47 


50 


564 


56 65 


66 


69( 


764 


50 54 


54i 


554 


60 


us of Linn6, 


• •• 


118 


120 



LARBEUT. 349 

a braDch with a few green leaves on it. The tree had been long 
hollow. The capacity of the hollow might be such as to contain 
a man or two. As the time when Wallace lived was about 500 
years before 1794, and the lifetime of a very old oak may be con- 
sidered to be not above 500 years, it follows that the tree, if it ex- 
isted in his time, must have been then very young, and therefore, 
it had not at that time formed a large and hollow trunk in which 
Wallace might conceal himself, as the popular story asserted that 
he did. The great hollow oak of 1790, if it was in existence in 
1290, was then very young. 

II. — Civil History. 
Eminent Men. — The parish of Larbert can boast of the follow* 

ing men. 

Robert Bruce of Kinnaird, whose memory must be ever dear 
to the Church of Scotland, for his bold and uncompromising de- 
fence of Presbyterianism against the encroachments of Popery, 
and forced Episcopal usurpation. Having made himself obnoxious 
to the Court, he was compelled to flee to England. He was after- 
wards banished to the country, and, residing at Kinnaird, he be- 
came the unpaid minister of Larbert parish, where his ministration 
was highly prized. He was esteemed over Scotland as a preacher 
of the truth, and after a life spent in the service of God, he expired 
at Kinnaird about the year 16d2, aged seventy- two years. The 
tomb-stone placed over his grave, and inscribed to his memory, 
still exists in Larbert church-yard. 

A descendant of this eminent minister of the church was James 
Bruce of Kinnaird, celebrated for his travels in Abyssinia.* He 
was in that country in 1769, and remained there four years. He 
is acknowledged to have been the first European who, in recent 
times, visited the source of the Abyssinian Nile.f 

Mr Bruce, in his Travels, informed the public of lands known 

* James Bruce was a descendant of the Rev. Robert Bruce in the fifth degree, I 
think ; but 1 have not any note of the number of degrees. ^ Mr Hay, of the family 
of Hay of Woodcockdale, in Linh'thgowshire, married the heiress of Kinnaird. James 
Bruce was the eldest son of that marriige. 

f The river of which Mr Bruce visited the source, is the Bahar el Azrek, the Nile 
of the Abyssinians, the Astapus of the Romans. It is not the principal branch of 
the Nile. The principal and considerably larger of the two branches which join to 
form the Nile, is the Bahar el Abiad, the White River, which ri*es in the Kumri 
mountains, and whose source has not yet (1838) been visited and described by Eu- 
ropeans. 

The source! of the Bahar el Azrek, the Nile of the Abyssinians, were visited and 
described 150 years before Mr Bruce's time by Pai«, a Portuguese Jesuit missioDary. 



350 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

only by name. Many of the details were loDg considered to be the 
fruit of the author's invention ; but the testimony of subeequeDt 
trarellers has proved the truth of Mr Brace's assertions. He was 
born in 1790, and died at Kinnaird in 17d4^ at the age of axty- 
four. 

In the earlier part of his life, Mr Bruce was a wine-merchant 
in London, and married the daughter of a wine-merchant there. 
This lady died a few years after the marriage. After this, Mr 
Bruce was Consul at Algiers. He receired about L. 10,000 from 
Government, as a compensation for the expense and time he bad 
bestowed on his travels in Abyssinia. He was sufficiently careful 
of his fortune, and left it in good order. He kept his colliery in 
his own hands for some years, and superintended the management 
of it, and erected a large steam-engine for pumping the water from 
the workings. 

Mr Bruce having lived a considerable time in the countries si- 
tuated on the shores of the Mediterranean, became acquainted 
with a number of the languages spoken in these countries, and 
knew several, so as to speak them, — Arabic, and its derivative, 
Abyssinian, otherwise known by the names of Ethiopic and Amba* 
ric,* Coptic, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Latm, Greek. 
Some of these languages Mr Bruce probably spoke with tolerable 
fluency. It is very rare that any one ever acquires the use of a 
foreign language, so as to speak it like a native. In order to have 
a chance of succeeding in this, he must begin in his infancy to 
speak the language with natives, and must live with the natives iu 
the country where the language is universally spoken. But if be 
continues this course long, the result is, that, in acquiring the 
idioms and correct articulation of the foreign sounds, he has for- 
gotten and lost a good deal of his own mother tongucf 

Paiz's description is inserted in Kirchcr's GBdipus Egyptiacus. Paiz was with the 
King of Abyssinia and his army, and visited Uie sources in 1618. Sec Athanasii Kir- 
chcri e socieUte Jesu CEdipus Egyptiacus. Roroae, 1652. 

* Habesch is the name which the inhabitants give to their country, and from this 
the Europeans have formed the name Abyssinia. The Amharic is the vernacular 
dialect of Ethiopic spoken in Abyssinia, llie Abyssinians, it is believed, came 
anciently from the east coast of the Red Sea, and two-thirds of the words in the 
Abyssinian language arc Arabic. The Abyssinian letters, however, are altogether 
different, and are read, as the European languages, from left to right, whilst the Ara< 
bic are read from right to lefl. 

f Mithridates, King of Pontus, in ancient times, was famous for his ability in 
speaking several different languages. L'Abbate Mesofanti, librarian in the Univer- 
sity of Bologna, in 1817, and afterwards one of the librarians of the Vatican, was cele- 
brated as £( linguist, and spoke fluently a number of languages, although he had never 
been out of the Pope's territory. 

4 



LARBERT. 351 

The line of Mr Bruce's travels did not lie in countries where he 
would have acquired a knowledge of languages of the Gothic class, 
such as German, nor of those of the Slavonic class, as Servian, 
Polish or Russian ; nor of Persian and the Indian tongues. 

Mr Bruce used to relate, that when he was presented to the Pope 
Ganganelli, Clement XIV., his Holiness said, fortunate is the sove- 
reign who has a subject like Mr Bruce, able to speak thirteen 
languages. Of these thirteen languages, however, it is probable 
there might be some of which Mr Bruce knew only a few words. 

Mr Bruce lived in a respectable and hospitable style at Kinnaird. 
He repaired, improved, and modernized a little his old mansion- 
house, and built a room adjoining to it, in which he disposed his 
books and oriental manuscripts on one side, and on the other 
side^ a collection of curiosities, consisting of corals, shells, and some 
showy minerals. Some rifles, Turkish sabres, and other arms from 
the Levant ; red feather cloaks and helmets from Otaheite ; 
some fragments of Egyptian antiquities ; some small antique 
bronzes, and Greek and Roman coins collected by Mr Bruce in 
the countries which border the Mediterranean. 

He had the panels of the base of the book-cases ornamented 
with 6gures, painted in the style of the Herculaneum fresco 6gures 
by David Allan of Edinburgh, a meritorious artist of that time. 

In this room was also seen a great old astronomical quadrant of 
brass, of two to three feet radius, a camel's load of itself, which 
Mr Bruce had carried with him over hill and dale to Abyssinia. 
A very clumsy instrument, when compared to the more portable 
modern mercurial horizon and sextant used by travellers for finding 
the latitude. 

The portfolios in this room contained the works of an Italian 
draftsman whom Mr Bruce took with him in his travels. These 
works consisted of architectural drawings of the Roman triumphal 
arch at Tripoli, and of aqueducts and other ancient buildings, 
near the site of Carthage, on the north coast of Africa, and un- 
published botanical drawings of Abyssinian plants. * 

Mr Bruce was a keen sportsman, and used to go in the season 
to a place thirty miles off in the Highlands, ou Loch Lubnaig, 

• A brother of Mr Bruce's, who was in India in the medical service of the East 
India Company, also made a collection of botanical drawings of Indian plants, which 
were sold after his death, and are now, if I recollect right, in the collection of the 
learned botanist, the Vice-president of the Linnean Society, Aylmer Bourke Lam. 
bert, Esq. 



352 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

called Ard Wliillary, the shooting and fishing belonging to which 
he rented. 

In an inclosure of a few acres at Kinnaird, he had some fallow- 
deer, and would show* his skill as a marksman, by bringing down 
a fat buck with his rifle, when he intended to give a venison feast 

He had a pair of swans to ornament his pond, and the neigh- 
bours said he was wont to pass off his geese for swans too. 

He was undoubtedly a wonderful boaster, and had no inclina- 
tion to follow the precept of the moralist, ^< Let nothing be done 
through strife and vain glory."* Mr Bruce, on the contrary, was 
always striving to appear great and mighty, and claiming the palm 
due to superior ability. 

With such a disposition to put himself forward, he necessarily 
excited the envy and malice of many. 

Walcot, known by the name of Peter Pindar, published a sati- 
rical epistle to Mr Bruce. Mr Bruce used to speak of this, and 
said that a relation of his in Liondon, who bore him some ill-will, 
had employed Walcot to write the satirical verses, and that the poet 
would not have published them of his own accord. Mr Bruce 
thus consoled himself with the opinion that the production was 
not propria motu of Peter Pindar. 

Mr Bruce was a tall stout man. In his youth, he was hand- 
some ; in the latter part of his life, he was corpulent and red-faced. 
His manly appearance, and his bold and commanding manner, 
were suited to procure him the respect of the people amongst 
whom he travelled. 

The uncle of Mr Bruce's wife was a native of this part of the 
country, and had acquired a large fortune of about half a million, 
as Commissary of the army in the German campaigns of the 
Duke of Cumberland, son of George II. in 1745, 1747, and 1757. 
The fortune and activity of this gentleman gave him considerable 
power and influence in the country. He and his connections were 
Whigs. But Mr Bruce was of a contrary persuasion in politics ; 
he saw Government in a different point of view, and was adverse 
to the destructive revolutionary system of Robespierre, the Duke 
of Orleans, surnamed Egalite, and other malignant and sangui- 
nary men who co-operated with them. This system had begun to 
work, and to be actively propagated in Europe not long before 

• " Let nothing bo done through strife or vain glory, but, in lowliness of mind, hi 
each esteem other better than themselves,"— St Paul's Kpistlcs. *» I^t another 
praise thee, and not thy own lips,"— Proverbs of Solomon. 



LARBERT. 353 

m _ 

Mr Bruce's death. Mr Bruce was candidate for the place of 
CoDveDer of the Commissioners of Supply of the County of Stir- 
ling ; a place of honour, not of emolument. His opponent was 
a gentleman of the Whig party, who, if I recollect right, was 
elected. 

A few years before his death, Mr Bruce's eye-sight became 
a little defective, so that he could not easily read by candle- 
light in the evening, and he said he had the intention of learning 
to play on some musical instrument, for the purpose of being able 
to pass his evenings with less exertion to his eyes. 

One evening at Kinuaird, he fell down the stair, whilst he was 
handing a lady to her carriage. He remained in a state of insen- 
sibility ever after the fall, and died in the course of the next four- 
and-twenty hours. The fall was attributed to an apoplectic at- 
tack. He thus died in 1794, at the age of about 64, having 
lived a year longer than that period of seven times nine years, ce- 
lebrated by the Platonists and old medical writers as the grand 
climacteric year. He was spared the pain of living to advanced 
old age, and had the good fortune to arrive at the end of life, be- 
fore the time when disease and infirmities usually come on. 

Mr Bruce was twice married, and by his second marriage to a 
daughter of Thomas Dundas of Fingask, heleft asonand adaughter ; 
and a descendant of his son continues to own the estate of Kin* 
naird, in this parish. 

2. Major- General Thomas Dundas of Fingask, commanded 
the 80th or Edinburgh Volunteers during the American war, and 
was the personal friend of Marquis Cornwallis, under whom he 
served. General Dundas resigned the Lieutenant-governorship 
of Guernsey, to command a division in Sir Charles Grey's expedition 
against the French West India islands, having borne a most distin- 
guished part in the capture of all the islands which were taken. Ge- 
neralDundas expired of a malignant fever, while in command of the 
Island of Guadaloupe. A monument was placed over his remains by 
the officers and soldiers of his division, which having been destroyed 
by the French General Victor Hugues, was restored by the gar- 
rison, when the island again fell into the hands of Great Britain. 
A cenotaph, by Bacon, was erected to the memory of Genera! Dun- 
das, by the British Parliament, in St Paul's Cathedral. 

8. The following is an account of some of the persons engaged 
in the 6rst establishment of the Carron Ironworks: — 

STIRLING. 7' 



354 STIULINGSHIRE. 

The iron manufactory for smelting iron from the ironstone was 
established at Carron, in this parish, in the year 1760, by a com- 
pany under the firm of Roebucks, Garbet, and Cadells. The 
original partners were, John Roebuck, Doctor of Medicine of 
Sheffield, and afterwards of Birmingham, and his two brothers, 
Thomas and Ebenezer Roebuck ; Samuel Garbet, merchant, of 
Birmingham; William Cadell, Senior, merchant at Cockenzie,iD 
East Lothian; William Cadell, Junior; and John Cadell.* 

Dr John Roebuck and Samuel Garbet were men of activity and 
enterprise. They were acquainted with chemistry ; and, before the 
Carron Company was formed, they had established a manufactory 
of sulphuric acid, otherwise called oil of vitriol, at Prestonpans, in 
East Lothian. Dr Roebuck was a partner of Mr Watt, in Mr 
Watt's first patent taken out in 1769, for the improvement of the 
steam-engine. Dr Roebuck had two-thirds of the patent. But 
the patent did not turn out a profitable concern during their co- 
partnership. 

Some years afler the works had been in activity, the celebrated 
engineer, Smeaton, was employed to reconstruct the blowing ma- 
chines, and other parts of the machinery. He also formed the 
dam-dike across the Carron at Larbcrt, constructed on the prin- 
ciples of an arch, with the convex side directed up the river. By 
means of this dam, the water of the river is retained, and passes io 
a leydjf or water-course, of a mile in length, to a reservoir of 30 
acres at the works. From this reservoir the water falls upon the 
different water-wheels which work the blowing machines, the bor- 
ing-mill, the forge-hammer, &c. The wheels are overshot. The 
fall 24 feet. 

The Carron Company had formerly another reservoir of the 
water of the Carron, at Dunipace. This is now abandoned, the 
ground having been wanted for other purposes. More recent- 
ly, viz. about 1836, the proprietors of water-wheels on the Car- 
ron, at their joint expense, formed a reservoir in the upper part 
of the river, on the Kilsyth ridge of hills, about ten miles west 
by north of Larbert. This reservoir is for the purpose of retain- 
ing the water in times of flood, and for giving it out, in times of 
drought. 

William Cadell, Junior, was the manager of the Carron Iron- 

• These names are taken from a fcu-clmrtcr granted by tlie company in 1763^ 
"(• Lcyd or lade pronounced Iccdt signifies in this part of the country, the waie' 

course, by which the water is conducted from the river to the mill wheel. WaUt* 

leyding, Dutcb, signifies the water course of a mill. 



LARBERT. 355 

works at their first foundation, and for some years after. He con« 
ducted the management with great industry and attention. After 
he had retired from the management, the works were managed by 
Charles Gascoigne. 

Charles Gascoigne was the son-in-law of Samuel Garbet, one 
of the partners above-mentioned. Before he came to Carron, 
Charles Gascoigne was a drysalter, t. e, a wholesale dealer in 
drugs and chemical preparations in London. He was a man of 
good abilities, and was active in promoting the improvement of the 
works ; but the establishment had not then become profitable, as 
it afterwards did. 

Whilst Mr Gascoigne was manager of the Carron Iron-works, 
an offer was made him to enter into the service of the Empress 
Catherine H. of Russia, who wanted to have iron-works erected 
in her dominions, for the purpose of making cast-iron guns, cast- 
iron shot, and shells. This offer was made through the medium 
of the late Admiral Greig, a native of Inverkeithing, and at that 
time a distinguished admiral in the Russian service. When a man 
is tolerably at ease in his circumstances, he does not readily re- 
nounce his country, and become the liege-subject, the bondman, 
of another sovereign. He would think it degrading and disho- 
nourable to take such a step. But Mr Gascoigne was in diffi- 
culties — ^he was not even with the world — his affairs were embarras- 
sed and insolvent. Being thus disagreeably situated in his native 
country, Mr Gascoigne was in a fit disposition to quit it, and seize 
the opportunity presented to him of trying whether fortune would 
be more favourable to his projects in the dominions of the Czarina. 
He was a man of the world, able and enterprising ; consequently, he 
accepted the offer, and went to Russia, taking with him, although 
contrary to law, several skilful workmen from Carron, who were able 
to erect and conduct the different parts and branchesof an iron-work. 
By these means, he erected iron-works for the Russian Government 
at Petrozavodsky,* and afterwards for smelting iron by pit coal, 
at a place near the Black Sea, and the country of the Don Cos- 
sack. Charles Gascoigne was Knight of the order of St Wladimir, 
and had the rank of General in the Russian service. He died 

• Petrozavodsky, a town of 7500 inhabitants, the capital of the government of Olo- 
netz, situated near the lake Onega; Latitude 61® 48'; 210 English miles north, 
east of St Petersburg, with which it has a communication, part of the way, by water- 
carriage. At this place the Russian government has iron smelt ing-furnacefi, worked 
with charcoal of wood, an iron cannon-foundcry, anchor>forges, and other works for the 
use of the navy and artillery. ' Some of these works were established by the Czar Peter I. 



356 STIRLINQSUIBE. 

possessed of about L. 30,000, which he had made in Russia, but his 
heirs or creditors in this country did not realize nearly so great a sum, 
bv reason of the fall in the exchanore value of the ruble, andother cir- 
cumstances. These iron-smelting- works and iron cannon-founderies 
of the Russian government are now, 1838, managed by Mr Wil- 
son, who went out with Mr Gascoigne, and who has the rank of 
General in the Russian service. 

Charles Baird, Knight of the Russian order of St Vladimir, 
who also went from Carron to Russia along with Mr Gascoigne, 
established and continues to carry on a large work for the manu- 
facture of muskets, steam-engines, and other iron goods at Oron- 
stadt, near Petersburg. 

Joseph Stainton, a native of Cumberland, who had been for se- 
veral years employed in the counting house of the Carron Com- 
pany, was appointed manager of the Carron Iron-works when 
Charles Gascoigne had left them. By a steady application to bu- 
siness and a scrupulous exactness in the execution of orders, as well 
as by attention to the quality of articles made at the works, he 
brought the affairs of the company into the thriving condition in 
which they now are. 

lAtnd'Owners. — The heritors of the parish are, — 1. Mrs Cum- 
ing Bruce ; 2. Colonel Dundas ; 3. Sir Michael Bruce, Bart. ; 4. 
Mr S. Stirling; 5. Carron Company; 6. Sir Gilbert Stirling, 
Bart ; 7. Mrs Robertson ; 8: Mr Forbes ; 9. Mr W. A. Cadell. 
The two families of Bruce are descended from the familv of 
Bruce of Airth, from which they were portioned off in the sixteenth 
century.* 

Colonel Dundas represents the family of Dundas of Fingask, 
which long held large property in Perthshire. 

The holdings of the different estates or tenements of land which 
the parish contains are as follows : — 

Kinnaird, — The owner is the superior. 

QuaroL — Erskine of Cardross is the superior of a part ; the own- 
er of Quarol is the superior of another part. 

Woodside. — The owner is the superior. 

Sienhouse. — The owner of the estate of Callendar is the supe- 
rior. From this, it appears that Stenhouse formerly was a part of the 
estate of Callendar. 

• The representative of the family of Bruce of Airth a id Elphinston of Airth i$ 
Mr Dundas of Biair, near Culross. 




filvlinil n^it .-''^s 



^ 




LAB BERT. 357 

Larbert, — The Duke of Hamilton is the superior, — Larbert 
having been at one time a part of the estate of the Hamilton fa- 
mily. Kinneil, including Larbert, was erected into a barony cal- 
led the barony of Kinneil. 

Broomage. — Lord Errol is supposed to be the superior.* 

Some of these estates have been transmitted by 'sale! during the 
last 100 years : a few have not been so transmitted. 

Kinnaird. — Not transmitted by sale. 

QuaroL — Sold about 1755 by Elphinston of QuaroL 

Stenhouse, — About one-half transmitted by feu about 1760 to 
the Carron Company ; the remainder not transmitted by sale. 

Woodside, — Sold three times since 1780, viz. about 1780 and 
after that ; 1^/, by Sir G. Dunbar or his heirs ; 2</, by Mr Strach- 
an ; <k/, by Mr Russell. 

Larbert — Sold twice since 1790, viz. about 1790 and after that; 
viz. 1^^, by Mr Robert Chalmers ; 2</, by Sir James Riddell. 
. Broomagc. — In 1775 was undivided, and the joint property of 
three owners. It was at that time divided into three parts equal 
in value. Each of these parts has since been sold. 

Parochial Registers. — The register has been regularly kept since 
the year 1699; but although it is continuous, it is neither volumi- 
nous nor remarkable for its regularity. 

Modern Buildings, — The church was begun in the year 1818, 
and was completed in about two years. The exterior is in the 
light or Elizabethan Gothic, after a plan by Mr Hamilton of 
Glasgow. This edifice forms an interesting object, from the Stir- 
ling road. The materials for building are abundant near the west 
end of the parish, and the stone is of good quality, though it is 
frequently porous, and by reason of its porous structure it absorbs 
the rain water to which it is exposed, so that the walls of a house 
built with it, are apt to be damp. 

Antiquities — Arthur* s Oon, — A remarkable Roman building, 
called Arthur's Oon, i. e. Arthur's Oven, stood on a bank sloping 
to the south or south by east, about 300 feet to the north of the point 
where is »^ow the north-west corner of the Carron Iron-works. 
There is a piece of ground of the extent of about 50 feet square, 
which has a well sunk in it, and is used as a washing green by the 
inhabitants of the adjacent houses. On this piece of ground, Ar- 
thur's Oon stood. The footpath passing up the slope was long 
known by the name of the Oon-path. The building was called 

* See tbe valuation roll of the county of Stirling, publisheil in 1831. 



358 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Oven from its shape. But it does not appear in what way the name 
of the British Prince Arthur, famed in romance, could reasonably 
be applied to it. The name is therefore supposed by Gordon 
(Itinerarium Septentrionale, 1726,) to be derived from the 
Gaelic Ard nan suainhe^ t. e. the high place or temple of the 
standards. As Arthur's Seat, near Edinburgh, is derived from 
Ard nan saidhe^ the hill of the arrow, other authors say that Ar- 
thur's Seat signifies the lofty seat, and Arthur's Seir between Ross 
and Moray is Ard nan seir^ the height to launch ships from. The 
latter part of Gordon's derivation of Arthur's Oon, viz. suainhe, 
is improbable. Ard and Arthur in Cymric or Welsh, from the same 
root as Arduu8y Latin, signify high, and also the Most High God. 
Arthur's Oon, therefore, may signify the oon, t. e. the cupola 
or dome of the Most High God. The Cymri or Cambro- Britons 
are considered to have possessed this part of the country as fieir as 
the vallum of Antoninus about the year 600. The name Arthur^s 
Oon, therefore, may be Cymric. 

This building, considered to be the most entire Roman building 
in Britain, was demolished in 1743. All the stones were carried 
away, and employed in repairing a dam across the Carron for an 
adjacent meal mill. The dam was^afterwards washed away by the 
river, and some of the stones probably now lie buried in the mud 
of the Carron. The curious will regret that the owner of Sten- 
house and of Stenhouse Mill was so destitute of all regard for an- 
tiquity. He certainly was no dilettante, neither real nor pretended. 
He was not one of the admirers of the beautiful and of the rare in 
the material world, but a country gentleman who had other things 
to mind, and never moved much out of the parish where he was 
born, and died there an octogenarian. Notwithstanding all this, 
the building might have escaped demolition, had he not been poor, 
possessed a numerous family of children, his income small, and a con- 
siderable part of it derived from the mill. These circumstances moved 
him to employ the stones, and turn them to profit in repairing his 
dam ; so that he pulled down this interesting fabric, which had 
stood fifteen centuries, and took the stones, that he might avoid 
the expense of quarrying stones from the sandstone rock, only two 
or three miles distant. 

There is an accurate drawing of Arthur's Oon in Camden*s 
Britannia, 1607. A drawing of it, made in 1720, by Mr Jelf, who 
was employed in the Ordnance Department in Scotland, is pub- 
lished in Dr Stukeley's description of Arthur's Oon. Jelf was ac- 



LARBERT* 359 

qiiainted with architecture, and examined the building in an archi- 
tectural point of view. Gordon's drawing of Arthur's Oon, from 
which the accompanying figure is taken, ispublished in hisltinerarium 
Septentrionale, 1726. It appears to be the most accurate draw- 
ing of the building that has been published. He compared his 
measurements with those of Jelf, and found them to agree within 
a few inches, except in the external diameter, which differed one 
foot. The principal dimensions were, the interior diameter, 20 
feet ; the external diameter, 28 feet ; the perpendicular height, 
22 feet Jelf was informed that the building had an iron door, 
and at the round opening of the cupola an iron curb, in form of a 
hoop. These had been taken away, several years before he saw 
the building. 

Two stone shelves ran round the interior. The arch of the 
door was well turned. Mr JelPs drawing in 1720, and Dr Stuke- 
ley's description, represent and state that the arch stones fell 
handsomely with a square face into the courses. This is contra- 
dicted by Gordon's drawing in 1725, which represents the extra- 
dos of the arch stones of the door as semicircular. Gordon's is 
probably the true representation, as he had Jelfs drawing before 
him, when he examined the building. 

The beds of the stones forming the cupola were horizontal, as 
represented in the accompanying section, and as Dr Stukeley states 
in his description. This was contrary to the principles of a vaulted 
cupola, in which the beds should not be horizontal, but portions 
of conical surfaces, having their apex in the centre of the cupola. 

The building was of hewn sandstone in regular courses. Each 
stone generally was about 4 feet long, 1 foot thick, and 1 foot 10 
inches broad. In the middle of the upper surface of each stone 
was a hole, which was considered to have served for receiving a 
lewis, by means of which the stone was raised and laid in its place. 

There was no inscription on the building, which might have re- 
corded the purpose for which the building, was erected.* Neither 
is there any Roman building similar in size and form, by a com- 
parison with which, the use of Arthur's Oon might be judged of. 
There are certainly several Roman temples of a round form, with 
a hemispherical cupola ; but these temples are large, and decorated 

* Gordon states that there was a stone on the inside of the building, from which 
it appeared that letters had been industriously efTaccd ; and another stone, also on 
the inside surface of the wall, on which there seemed to be the vestiges of sculpture, 
worn out by the weather, which might be taken for the figure of an eagle. 



360 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

with architectural ornaments, whilst Arthur^s Ood was small and 
altogether without ornament 

In the absence of suflScient proof with respect to the use of ths 
building, and the precise time when it was erected, conjectures 
have been various, and the several authors who have spoken of 
the building have gi?en different opinions. 

Nennius, a monk, who lived about the year 810, in his histoij 
of British aflhirs, which, like the works of other authors of that 
period, contains many fictitious, false, and erroneous statements, 
contradicted by historians of credit, describes Arthur^a Oon, and 
states, without adducing any proof, that it was built by Caransiofl^ 
who assumed the dignity of Emperor in Britain in 284, held out 
against Maximian, the adopted son of Dioclesian, and ruled for 
seven years. 

It does not appear that Arthur's Oon is mentioned by John 
Fordun, who lived about 1340, and was the first who wrote a ge- 
neral history of Scotland. 

Johannes Major, in his history of Scotland, ignorantly asserts 
that Arthur's Oon was built by Julius Caesar, although it is known 
from Caesar's Commentaries, and from other historians, that Ju- 
lius Caesar never extended his power to this part of the country. 
Johannes Major states, that in his time the building was called 
Julius's Hof, t. e, Julius's House (Ao/e, Anglosaxon ; houft Scotch, 
a court, a house). Perhaps it is this word Ao/* which afterwards 
passed into ofa^ ovetiy and oon. 

Hector Boece, in his History of Scotland, which he published 
in 1526, asserts, without any good grounds, that Arthur's Oon 
was built by Vespasian, and that it was the tomb of Aulus Plau- 
tius. 

Buchanan in his History of Scotland, which he published io 
1582, describes Arthur's Oon in his florid style, but rather inao 
curately, and represents it erroneously, as similar to the conical 
buildings in Glenelg, opposite to the Isle of Skye. But these 
buildings, which have a form something like the tower at MartellOf 
in Corsica, are altogether different from Arthur's Oon. Tbey 
are of unhewn stone, and difier from Arthur's Oon in every other 
respect, and are considered to be Danish. 

Buchanan in 1582, and Camden, in his Britannia in 1610, sup- 
pose that Arthur's Oon was a temple dedicated to Terminus. 
But no such temples of Terminus have been found amongst the 
remains of the Romans ; and it does not appear from the writings 



LARBERT. 361 

of Roman authors, that the Romans had any temples dedicated to 
Terminus. 

Dr Stukeley, in his description of Arthur's Oon (27 pages, 4to, 
1720), will have it to be a temple dedicated to Romulus. 

Dio Cassius relates, that in the Roman camps there was a small 
temple, in which the Roman eagle and the military standards were 
adored. Gordon (in his Itinerarium Septentrionale, 1726), sup- 
poses that Arthur's Oon was one of these temples, and that it was 
built about the year 75 of the Christian era by Julius Agricola, 
who was Prefect in Britain in the latter part of the reign of Ves- 
pasian, and was the first Roman general who ever entered Scot- 
land with a Roman army. Tacitus, in his Life of Agricola, re- 
lates that Agricola fortified this part of the country, namely, the 
isthmus between Forth and Clyde, by a line of garrisoned forts ; 
" Nacn Glota (Clyda) et Bodotria (Votria, Vortia) ♦ • ♦ ♦ ♦ 
angusto terrarum spatio dividuntur quod tum prsesidiis firmabatur." 
This praetentura, or frontier line of forts, was, it is supposed, about 
a mile to the north of the line on which the Wall of Antoninus, 
called Graeme's Dike, was afterwards constructed. 

Gordon, moreover, conjectures, that Arthur's Oon may have been 
a tomb as well as a camp-temple. The size and form of the 
building agree well enough with the conjecture of its being a 
tomb ; but there is no well authenticated account that anv urn or 
sepulchral chest was ever found in it, to confirm that conjecture. 
Another period to which the building of Arthur's Oon might be 
ascribed, is about the year 144, in the reign of Antoninus Pius, 
the adopted son of Adrian, when Lollius Urbicus, the emperor's 
lieutenant, formed the vallum called Graeme's dike from the Frith 
of Forth to the Frith of Clyde. Arthur's Oon is situated not far 
from this vallum, being about two miles north of it. It may, there- 
fore, be conjectured, that Arthur's Oon might be built about the 
time of the construction of the vallum. There is, however, no di- 
rect nor satisfying solution of the question to what period of the Ro- 
man dominion in Britain the building belongs. It is probably not 
of so late a date as 310, when Constantino reigned. About 100 
years after which, namely in 407, the Roman dominion in Britain 
came to an end, in the reign of Honorius, two years before the 
sacking of Rome by Alaric. During the next thirty years, troops 
were occasionally sent by the Romans to assist the provincial 
. Britons against the attacks of the Scots and Picts. But at last 
this aid ceased, and no further assistance could be obtained in 



862 STIRLINGSlliaE. 

444, in the reign of Theodosius the younger, the Romans being 
then too seriously engaged in war with Attila, who had OTerrun a 
great part of Europe. The provincial Britons thus left unprotect- 
ed by the Romans, in 449, brought over the Saxons to defend 
them. 

Roman Mitt'-itonet and/roffmenis of PotUty. — About the year 
1800, the labourers in digging and draining^ a piece of ground 
consisting of peat moss, about 1000 feet north-east of the site of 
Arthur^s Oon, found tbreeor four mill-stones, about eighteen inches 
in diameter. One of these which I saw, consisted of a dark coloar- 
ed lava, like the lava of the mill-stones of the great miU-stone 
quarries of Andemach on the Rhine. A similar mill-stoDe^ con* 
sisting of the same lava, was found in 1835, lying on a stone wbidi 
contained the epitaph of a Roman soldier, at the Mumrills, a 
place where there was a station on the vallum of Antoninus, about 
four miles east of the site of Arthur^s Oon. . 

Along with the three or four milUstones at the mossy piece of 
ground, 1000 feet distant Irom the site of Arthur's Oon, the la- 
bourers also found, according to the account I received from one 
of them, fragments of pottery, and the remains of a fabric which 
they considered to be a potter's kiln ; also a paved road, and two 
iron rims of wheels. 

ToTwood Head* — On the highest point of the Torwood are 
some narrow low vaults, probably the remains of a castle or signal 
tower of the middle-ages, but of what precise period is unknown. 

Old Mansion-hotisea, — The mansion-house of Stenhouse was 
built in 1622, and has that date inscribed on it. Its ground plao 
consists of the two adjacent sides of a rectangle being in the shape 
of the letter L. In the internal angle is a round staircase, and 
there are turrets at the upper part of the five external angles of 
the building. This form of building was much* in use in Scot- 
land, about the period from 1580 to 1650, and there are in differ- 
ent parts of Scotland, a great many country mansion-houses of 
a similar form built during that period. 

The mansion-house of Torwood Head, (in the parish of Duni- 
pace,) now ruinous, is built upon a similar plan to that of Sten- 
house. It is larger and probably older. On the mansion-house 
of Woodside are inscribed the initials of Hollo of Woodside, with 
a date of about 1700, if I recollect right. At that time, the n«m- 
her of mansion-houses in the parish was four. Tliey were situat- 
ed at Kinnaird, Quarol, Stenhouse, and Woodside. The present 



LARBEUT. 363 

owners of Kinnaird and SteDhouse bold them by inheritance from 
the owners who then possessed them. The rest of the lands 
which the parish contains, have passed into the hands of other fa- 
milies by sale. 

Square Towers* — At the periods which preceded 1550 or 
1500, the residences of the land-owners or country chie& were not 
of the nature of country mansion-houses, which could not have 
suited the disturbed political state of the country. They were not 
the dwellings of people in a state of peace, but were small for- 
tresses constructed for defending the inhabitants from the attacks 
of their neighbours. The residence of a Scotch chief about 1300 
or 1350, was prepared for defence. The state of the country 
rendered this necessary. The chief would try sometimes to re- 
pair or better his fortune, as the hero of the Odyssey proposed to 
do, by carrying ofif his neighbour's cattle,* and the residence of the 
chief was formed into a kind of military position, and fortified for 
defence against the attacks of his neighbours, who were also plun- 
derers. This station or stronghold of the Scotch chieftain con- 
sbtedofa square tower, which could only contain a small garrison, 
and adjacent to the tower were probably a number of huts, in which 
the family, the dependents, and followers of the chief, had their 
dwellings. 

There are some vestiges consisting of fragments of walls of 
such fortalices, on the lower part of the southern slope of the Kil- 
syth hills, about ten miles west of Larbert, viz. at Colieum and 
at Kilsyth, and on the Campsie hills, which are a part of the same 
ridge. One of these square towers, called Plaine-mill tower, still ex- 
ists, about four miles north of Larbert. The tower, which is placed 
upon a sandstone rock very little raised above the adjacent flattish 
country, is solidly built of stone, with thick walls. The corner- 
stones and window jambs and sills well squared. The dimensions of 
the interior are not more than about 18 feet by 14. There was 



« 



IloWa fitv auro? iyu Xrjiggofia, aWa dt A^atot 
Act.ii!g 6i6oxi Tavras svicrXTjtffib^iv i^auXx; Odv;gnag -v)/. 

V^hat Bheep the wasting suitors did consume, 

I'll take so many as shall ftll their room, 

The friendly Greeks the rest will soon provide, 

Till all my coats (i. e, cots,) and stalls arc resupplitd. 

The Odyssc, translated by John Ogilvy, Esq. Master of his 
Majesty's Revels, &c. 1665. 



364 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

a ground-floor and two upper floors. The ground-floor, vaulted 
and without windows, perhaps a loop hole or two. There are 
the remains of a building adjacent to the tower, which^was 
a mansion-house, built at a period somewhat more recent, and was 
no doubt the residence of the owner of the estate of Plaine. Such 
a tower would scarcely be large enough for a garrison of twenty 
men. 

These small quadrangular towers or fortalices, (fortalitium^ in 
Latin of the middle-age, a small fort), several of which exist in 
different parts of Scotland, were built, perhaps, after the model of 
the great square towers erected by William the Conqueror, about 
1070, such as the castle at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Richmond, in 
Yorkshire, Rochester Castle, the Tower of London, Hedingham 
Castle in Essex.* The ornamental parts of these great towers are 
in the round arched Byzantine style, as are also the two great ab- 
bey churches built by William at Caen, in Normandy. Of a less 
ancient period is Borthwick Castle in Midlothian, a quadrangular 
tower of considerable size, built in 1430. It contains a large hall, 
the ceiling of which is a pointed-arched vault. A charter is pre- 
served, in which the King grants permission (ad castrum edifi" 
candum) to build the castle. By means of this charter, the period 
in which Borthwick Castle was built is ascertained. 

1 1 1. — Population. 

At the union of the parishes of Larbert and Dunipace, the po- 
pulation of each parish was small, and that of Larbert considera- 
bly the least. The establishment of the iron- works at Carron 
has changed matters entirely. By the census taken about the 
year 1790, the Rev. G. Harvey, minister, makes the population 
about 400 souls. It appears, however, to have been but loosely 
done, as^he takes the census of adults, and allows a per centage 
for children under age. By the census of 1831, which was care- 
fully managed, the population was found to be 4262 souls. There 
is no reason to believe, that there was any great increase during 
the period between the two census; but since 1831, there has 
been more appearance of augmentation. 

The heritors are the only persons of independent fortune re- 
siding in the parish, of whom there are seven who are resident 
usually or occasionally. 

• Engraved with its details of architecture in the Vetusta Munuiiienta, published 
by the Society of Antiquaries of London. 



L All BERT. 365 

There are 710 inhabited houses, and 38 building, or under 
thorough repair. 

In the parish, there are six insane, and as many deaf and dumb 
persons. 

Language. — The language of the working-class has been much 
improved within the last twenty y^ars, t. e. it has become some- 
thing more like the modern written dialect of English. There is 
still a coarseness of expression, which is too general. In cleanliness, 
a more marked improvement has taken place. The people are 
better lodged and better clothed. The luxury of the midden* is 
still indulged in, but it has given place, in a great many instances, 
to the flower-plot We are often delighted by seeing the labourer 
or handicraft-man amusing himself with the easy toil of tending 
his flowers after bis day's work. The agricultural peasantry are 
unchanged in their diet, which is full and wholesome, save by the 
use of pig-flesh, which has become very general, and thus a supply 
of kitchen is secured at an easy rate. Among the manufactur- 
ing people, wheat bread is in very general use, but among the 
landward folk, the oat-cake, and occasionally scones of barley 
and potatoes, have the preference. The use of butcher-meatf has 
greatly increased during the last ten years. 

Poaching is common, especially hare-snaring. 

The game of curling is keenly pursued by the farmers, masons, 
and such others as are impeded in their work by hard frost. The 
colliers play at quoits, and also at long bowls, which consists in 
hurling a four or six pound shot along the high road, to the occa- 
sional annoyance of the passenger. 

Before the establishment of the Carron iron-works, the parish 
was thinly peopled, and the population consisted of a few country 
people, who grazed some cattle and ploughed a small portion of 
the land. Their food consisted chiefly of oatmeal, barley meal, :|: 
and milk,potatoes being at that time unknown in the country. 

Seventy years ago, viz. about 1760, just before the establish- 
ment of the Carron Ironworks, the surface of the parish had a 

« 

* Miden, me-dyngy a muck heap, moeg dyng in Danish, composed of nweg^ which 
signifies muck, and dyng^ a heap. 

f The butcher in the dialect of this part of the country is called the flesher. The 
<rord flesh-er is from Vleet honvery Dutch, a butcher, literally a feller and cutter-up 
of flesh. V 

Z At the old farm-steads, there used to be seen a stone mortar in which barley was 
pounded. 'I his mortar was made of a block of sandstone,-i-the hollow of the mor- 
tar being about one foot in diameter, and one foot in depth. 

The mill for making pot barley by grinding off the husk was introduced from Hol- 
land. 



366 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

different appearance from that which it now has. It was then a 
poor district, very little of it ploughed, and that little ill cul- 
tivated. Fanning was in a rude state, as well as other mechani- 
cal arts. The roads were bad, and no attention was paid to the 
art of road-making. The land was almost all uninclosed. In one 
place, namely, in the lands of Broomage, that awkward mode of 
farm management called runrig was in practice, that is to say, the 
lands of Broomage belonged to three owners conjointly, and the 
arable part was allotted by them, so that the first ridge was plough- 
ed and cultivated by the joint owner A, the second ridge by the 
joint owner B, the third by C, the fourth by A, and so on. This 
was done with the intention that each owner might have an equal 
share of the arable part of the ground, and also that the arable 
part lying all together might be more conveniently protected from 
cattle. In 1776, the three joint owners agreed to make a division 
of these lands into three parts equal to each other in value, and 
that each owner should have one of these thirds. This being ac- 
complished under the superintendence of an arbiter, the system of 
runrig cultivation ceased. 

As there were no inclosures, the cattle were kept from tres- 
passing on the corn by a boy or girl as a cowherd.* The 
children at the age of seven or eight were sent out to this 
occupation, and thus they began the world. It Wcis certainly a 
more healthful employment than that which falls to the lot of the 
cotton factory children of the present day, who are condemned by 
fate to make their first steps in this valley of tears, confined all day 
in the unwholesome dusty air of a close room. 

An inhabitant of the parish in the old bygone times did bis 
work leisurely and at his ease, much in the same way as a gentle- 
man works who takes care not to fatigue himself. But now-a-days, 
the population of Great Britain is more crowded, and consequent- 
ly men must work harder to earn their daily bread and to obtain 
other necessaries of life. In compensation, the workman of the 
present day has more of the conveniences of life ; he is better lodg- 
ed, better fed, and better clothed than the countryman of the for- 
mer period. 

The parish is now all enclosed and cultivated, the roads good, 
the population considerable in number, and many pieces of ground 

• TIic children were sent out to the herdinpr, in the language of the parish. A 
herd in Scotch is equivalent to the English word a herdsman, hXrd in Anglo-saxoni 
hlrty German, dcr gnte hirt, the good shepherd in the gospels, //?/rrfa, Icelandic, to pro- 
tect. 



LARBERT* 367 

are covered with rows of houses, inhabited chiefly by workmen em- 
ployed at the Carron Iron-works, such as moulders, furnace-men, 
carters, &c. There are also a number of nailers in the parish not 
connected with the Carron Iron-works. 

Thus we see that the inhabitants of this part of the country, (and 
the same may be said of all Scotland,) were in former times rather 
poor, but some progress had even then been made in wealth, dur- 
ing the last 370 years, viz. since the year 1390. 

At that time, the inhabitant of Scotland, even of the Lowlands, 
was scarcely possessed of any of the conveniences which are pro- 
duced by arts and industry, by means of which men in a more ci- 
vilized state of society try to make life tolerable ; he therefore, of 
necessity, endured and tolerated life with the less complicated 
means which were within his reach, and without the aid of any ma- 
chines or artisans, but the very rudest. Cattle was the chief pro- 
duce, and some barley and oats were grown.* On the sea coast, 
there were but a few sailors and trading vessels. 

Every manufactured article, such as leather, bridles, saddles, 
and all iron instruments and geer, were imported ready made from 
Flanders. They could scarcely make a horse shoe. Horses were 

* Perhaps also a little wheat. Grains of wheat reduced to a black charcoaly substance 
were found about 1795, at the Roman station of Castlecary, on the Tallum of An- 
toninus Pius, called Grccme^s dike. We may suppose that this Roman wheat grew 
in Scotland. But the state of the country w.is so wild for a long time after the Ro- 
mans leA it, that I should have diflicultv in supposing the existence of a regular year- 
ly succession of crops of wheat in Scotland since tl^ir time. It may be doubted 
whether any of the wild it. habitants had suflScient leisure and industry for growing 
wheat in the years 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, and intervening years. In these years 
the succession of events always going on, was of such a nature as to bring about but 
little progress in civilization. The cultivation of a little barley and oau was probably 
all that the inhabitants could effect, and these two kinds of grain, it may be supposed, 
have been grown in Scotland from an early period, and without intermission. In the 
Hebrides, the summer is short and not warm, and therefore unfavourable to the pro- 
duction of grain. That species of barley called bear is the principal grain which is 
grown, and that not in any considerable quantity. In 1887, some wheat was grown 
in Ulva, said to be the first wheat ever grown in the Hebrides. The year 1837 was 
sunny and favourable to agriculture. Ulva, or the middle of Mull, is about the 56^ 
degree of latitude. The most northern point of Europe at which grain is grown, is 
5 or 6 degrees farther north, viz. in a valley in Norway, in latitude 62*, where bar- 
ley, oats, and even rye are grown. The summer heat at that place may perhaps be 
as great as in Mull. The growth of barley is carried on in difiercnt climates, and 
ower a very extensive portion of the surface of Europe and Africa. Barley was grown 
by the ancient Egyptians, and bread made of coarsely ground barley, recognizable 
by the unground grains, has been found in the catacombs at Thebes. We see thus 
that barley is grown in Europe and Africa, from about the latitude of 22 to la- 
titude 62 degrees, from about the tropic to within 5 degrees of the arctic circle, in a 
range of 40 degrees of latitude. 

In old charters and convcyanct»s of land in Scotland, breweries (brassaria) are 
mentbned. I do not know whether it is ascertained, at what time the distillation o 
spirit from the fermented infusion of malted barley was introduced. 



3C8 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

scarce and dedr. This part of the world is not like many places 
in India, where the soil and cilmate produce different kinds of 
grain, bananas, cocoa-nuts, and other kinds of food, with little la 
hour. Our soil and climate are unfavourable to the production of 
grain, and it is only by means of great labour that ^rrain can be 
ripened. The chief natural and indigenous production useful to 
mankind, is black-cattle. 

At the period of which we are speaking, about 1390, the inha- 
bitants were altogether without industry ; very little of the ground 
was in tillage. They were in a state of wild inactivity. They had 
no disposition to mechanism, no dexterity in practical mechanics 
and carpentry, or the conversion of hides into leather, as the 
Russian boors have. They had no skill to extract metal from the 
clay ironstone and lead ore which some parts of the country con- 
tain. They had not the knowledge nor experience necessary for 
working the pit-coal. They were unable to make the manufac- 
tured articles which they needed. They got them, therefore, from 
Flanders, but they could only get them in small quantities because 
they had very little to give to the merchant, and therefore would 
receive little from him. They went to market possessed of but 
very scanty means of buying, for all they had to give in exchange 
conbisted in some ox hides. Few or no other articles of export 
could be afforded by the ill-cultivated country, raw climate, and 
inhabitants without industry and harassed by war.* 

* Here is the account Froissart gives of Scotland, during this old order of things 
about 1390, in the reign of Robert, King of Scotland, and when Richard II. was King 
of England. Froissart, born at Valenciennes, lived at that time, and had visited 
Scotland. 

Ilaindebourgf (est) la souveraine villc d^Escocc et ou le roi se tient le plus, quand 
il est au pais. Haindebourg (nonobstant que le roi d*Escoce y tiennc son siege et 
que c'cst Paris en Escoce) n'est pas telle villc comnie scrait Tournay ou Valcncieunec, 
car il n*y a pas en toute la ville quatre mille maisons, (this number of houses, rec- 
koning a family of five to each house, will contain a population of 20000)... En Escoce 
ne vierent oncqucs nul homme de bien et sont ainsi comme gens sauvages : qui ne 
savent avoir et de nuUuy accointer et si sont trop grandement envicux des biensd*au. 
truy : et si doutcnt de leur bien perdre, car ils ont pauvre pais : et quand les Angluis 
y vont ou cbevauchcnt (ainsi conime ils ont fait autrefois plusieurs fois) il convient 
que leur pourveanccs (s'ils vculent vivre) les suyvent toujours au dos, car on ne trouve 
rien sur le pais qu'a grande peine ; (the Scotch took care always to drive their catde 
out of the way before the arrival of the English); et n*y trouve Ton point de fcr 
pour ferrer les chevaux, ne cuir pour faire harnuis, selles ne brides, car les choses leur 
vienuent par mer de Flandres toutes faites : et quand elles dcfaillent, en leur pais 
n*en trouvent point... Les Francois y trouvoient les chevaux si chers que ce qui ne 
deust valoir que dix florins il en valoit soixante ou cent, et encore a grand peine en 
pouvoiton recouvrer...le roi ( Robert) etoit dans la sauvage Escoce,... or vint le roy Ro- 
bert d*Escocc avec una rouges ycux rebrossds il senibloit de sendal : et bien leur mon. 

t Haidenbourg would be a more reasonable way of writing the name. Edinbui^ 
is from Edwin'sburgh. Edwin was a North-humber.land-ian prince, Dun-edm in 
Gaelic, U e. the town and hill-fort of Edwin. 

4 



LARBERT. 369 

The population of Scotland contained only a few individuals de« 
voted to mechanical arts, and those of the most ordinary kind, and 

strait qu*i] n*etoit pas aux annes fort raillant homme, et qu*il avoit plus cher le se* 
joumer que le chevauchCT, mais il avoit jusqu*i^ neuf fils : et ccux aymoyent les ar- 
n]es...Ie roi n'etoit pas en bon poinct pour chevaucher. 

...£t s'en Tinrent le roy (d'Angleterre, Richard II.) et les Anglois loger a Hainde- 
bourg la souveraioe ville d'Escooe : et la fut le roi cinq jours. A son departement 
ellc Alt toute arae : et rien n*y demoura, mais le cbatel n^avoit garde, car il estoit bien 
fort : et si estoit bien gard^...Et epargnoyent les Anglois abbaies ne monstiers aina 
tout mettoyent en feu et en flambe...Tout en telle manierc que les Anglois se deme- 
noycnt en Esoocc ausHi se demenoyent les Fran9ois ct Esco9ois en Angleterre et en la 
marche de Northombcllande et de Galles»...(GaIles means Cumberland, the land of 
the Cymri.) Si retoumerent les Escocols en leur pais et les Francois ausii, par le chemin 
qu*ils etoyent all^s : et quant ils furent retoum^ en la douce Escoce, (Froissart calls 
it street gentle Scotland, ironically I suppose,) ils trouverent tout le pais destruit. Mais 
les gens du pais n*enfesoyent compte : et disoyent que sur six ou huit estan9ons ils au- 
royent tantost fiiit nouvelles maisons ct trouvcroycnt asscz betes pour vivre. Car les 
Esoocois lesavoyent saurees et chacees aux forets, (these beasts were, no doubt, cattle 
of the ox species, which species is probably indigenous, and an inhabitant of the country 
ever since a remote period when mankind had not yet got a footing on this part of the 
earth's surface. It is possible also that some sheep were reared in some parts of the south 
of Scotland, at the period of which Froissart speaks. The sheep thrives tolerably well 
in some cold countries, for example Shetland and Iceland.) L' Admiral (de France 
messire Jehan de Vienne) et les barons et les chevaliers qui etoient en sa compaignie 
(a Haindebourg) eurent moult de disette et de soufrette : et ne trouvoient i, peine rien 
pour leur donner a vivre. De vins n*avoicnt ils qu*a grande peine, et dc la petite cer- 
Toisee, et du pain d*orgc ou d*avoine et estoient les chevaux raorts de faim, (the town 
of Edinburgh had been burnt a short time before this by the English army under 
Richard II.,). ..et disoientles Rscocoisque les Francois leur avoyentplusporte dedom- 
mages que les Anglois et quand on leur demandoit enquoy ils respondoyent pource 
qu*en chevauchant par nostra pais ils ont foule et abbatu les bles les orges et les 
avoines i et qu*ils ne daignoyent chevaucher les chemins : dcsquels domma9es ils vou« 
layent avoir recompense avant quails departissent d*Escoce : et plusieurs chevaliers et 
escuyers se plaignoyent des bois qu*on les avoit coup^ et desert^, et tout ce avoyeut 
fiut les Francois pour eux loger... 

Lejeune roi Charles, (i. e. Charles VI.) et le Due de Bourgoyne...L*admiral leur 
dit bien que Esco9oi8 retournoyent par nature aveo la condition des Anglois (car ils 
sont envieux sur les estrangers) et leur dit que si Dieu lui udast il ainieroit mieux 
estre Comte de Savoye ou d*Artoi^ ou d*un tel pais que roy d' Escoce... Et que toute 
la puissance du roy d* Escoce il avoit veue en un jour ensemble (si comme les Escocois 
le disoyent) mais de chevaliers et d'escuyers il ne se trouverent oncques que cinq cens 
lances : et environ trente millc hommes pouvoyent ils bien ctre d*autres gens (bien 
roal arrows) (he adds in another place) : qui contre les archers d* Angleterre ou contre 
gens d*arme8 nauroyent nulle durec.** 

Thus translated by Sir Johan Bourchier, Knight, Lord Berners. 

<* Edinborowe (is) the chcif town in Scotlande, and where the kyng (Robert) in time 
of peace (in the French copy it is, * when in that part of the country,') most com- 
monly lay... For Edinborow, though the kynge held there his chefe resydence, and that 
it is Parys in Scotland, yet is nat lyke Tourney or Valencenes, for m all that town 
there u nat four thousande houses... In Scotlande ye shall find no man lightly of ho- 
nour nor gentylnesse, they be lyke wylde and savage people : they will be with no 
man acquainted, and are greatly envious of the honour or profyte of any other man : 
and they doubt ever to lese that they have, for it is a poor oountre : and when the 
Englysshmen maketh any roode or voyage into the countre, as they have done often 
before this tyme, if they thynke to lyve, they must cause their prouvision and vitayle 
to foUowe theym at their backe, for they shidl fynde nethyng in that countre but with 
moche payne : nor they shall fynd none yron to showe their horses, nor leddar to 
make harness, saddles, or bridelles : for all such thyngs comcth to them redy made 
oute of Flaunders, and when that provision faileth, there is none to gette in the coun- 
tre. Whan they (I. e, the Frenchmen) were in Scotlande, and woud ryde, they 
found horses to dere, for that that was not worthe tenne florins they coude not bye 
under threescore or a hundred, and yet with moche payne to gette any for money... 

STIRLING. A a 



370 STIRLINGSHIRE* 

which are necessary even to the poorest and rudest nations. It 
contained no workmen bred to mining, to working in metals, to 
making of woollen cloth, of linen, of leather, to the production of 
grain and cattle in a great way, and no capital nor capitalists to pay 
the wages of such workmen, to pay for the formation of young 
workmen, and to sell the produce of their work. To say that the 
country was without mechanical artists and without capital, is to 
say that it contained no manufactures, for artists and capitalists are 
the 'constituent parts of a manufactory. 

(and aAeVwards when they wanted to sell their horses they could find no bayersw) 
The kynge (Robert) was in the wylde Scottysh, (>. e. the Highlands)... Then came 
the kynge Robert of Scotland : he bad a pay re of red bleered eycn. They looked 
like senual, which is a red stuff of silk, (». «. he had a retrorersion of the eyelids,— 
an infirmity to which old age is subject,) and it seemed right well by him that he wai 
no valiant man in armes : it- seemed he bad rather lye still than to rydc : he had 9 
sons, and they loved well armes... The kvnge was not in good point to ryde a warfitre 
...And the kyng (of England, Richard II.) came and lodged in Edinborrow, and 
there tarryed fyve dayes, and at his departing it was set afyre, and brent up clrae,* 



* The houses in Edinburgh, about L^O, were probably, in great part, constructed 
of wood, and the roofs covered with branches of trees, with turfs and with straw, 
some perhaps with fissile sandstone, called in Scotland grey slate. Even in those 
buildings which form what is now called the Old Town of Edinburgh, many of 
the fronts of the houses are of wood. 

In 1544, Edinburgh was again burnt by the English, and there is an old drawing 
of a view of Edinburgh^ supposed to have been made just before that burning. This 
drawing is amongst the Cotton MSS. in the British Museum ; and an exac^oopy of 
it is engraved and published in the Bannatync Miscellany, Edinburgh, 18S^7. In 
this drawing, the roofs in the Canongatc are all coloured gray to represent thatch* 
The roofs in the town arc coloured red. This the draftsman may have done ; be- 
cause in many of the towns in England, with which he may have been familiar, the 
roofs have long been covered with flat tile. But it is probable that tile was not used 
in Scotland in 1544,'t' and that the roofs were usually covered with straw thatch, and 
some of the better sort of them with thin Hags of fissile sandstone. The church of the 
Abbey of Holjrood bad some lead as a covering to the roof. It was the custom for- 
merly to inscril>e upon the house the number denoting the year in which it was built. 
Amongst the dates so inscribed on the houses of the old town of Edinburgh, there 
are not many or none older than about 1591. There was one in the Old Bank 
Close, south side of the Lawnmarket, a well-built mansion, with the date of 1591 
on it. 

Edinburgh, altogether, is not an ancient town. It is probably little more than 1000 
years since the first fortress was built on the castle rock, and the first dwellings pitch- 
ed on the adjacent ground. No inscriptions, coins, or other relics of the Romans 
are found, which shows that on the site which tlie town now covers, there was 
no Roman station, and probably no collection of dwelling places of any kind 
about 450, when the Romans had finally lefl and given up all connection with 
Britain. The only relic of the Romans, which might be supposed to belong to Edin- 
burgh, is a pair of heads in bas relief, built in the front of a house in the Nether Bow. 
But these heads have probably been brought from some Roman station in the adja- 
cent country. They may have belonged at one time to a church or mona'>tery« for 
they have been set up as if to represent Adam and Eve, the inscription placed between 
them being the doom pronounced on the first man and all his descendants, •* in sudorc 
vultus tui vesceris pane tuo,'* in letters of the black letter form, of perhaps about 
1400. Some antiquaries consider the heads to be portraits of the Emperor Alexan- 
der Severus and his consort. 

t Tile-making, brick-making, and pottery were scarcely, I should think, amongst 
the small number of the mechanical arts practised in Scotland in 1544. 



LARBERT. 371 

IV. — Inddstry. 

It appears that about 90 men are occupied in agriculture, and 
880 as handicraftmen ; but, as those are mostly in the service of 
the Carron Company, some of whose workmen reside in Larbert, 
while others are in Falkirk, and a few in Bothkennar, it has not 
been deemed of great importance to ascertain very accurately the 
number in each parish, as the whole amount of persons employed 
at Carron will be given hereafter. 

Agriculture. — The parish contains about 4| square miles, or 
more exactly about 3100 imperial acres, of which probably 200 
are occupied by plantations, and pleasure-grounds, and roads. 
The whole of the remainder is arable, and under cultivation. Of 
this, nearly 350 are of carse or alluvial clay soil, and the system 
of a six rotation is universally followed, viz. ]. fallow; 2. wheat; 
3. beans; 4. barley; 5. hay; 6. oats. No definite rotation is 
observed on the dry -field land ; a large portion is in grass, and 
occupied by graziers from Falkirk, or by the cattle-dealers who 

but the castell bad no hurt, for it was strong ynough, and well kept... The Englysshe- 
men spared nother abbeys nor minsters, but set all on fy re... Thus in lykewise as the 
£nglisshemen dyde in Scotlande, so dyde the Frenchemen and Scottes in the mar- 
diease of Northumberland and Wales, (i. e, Cymberland the land of the Cymri, now 
called Cumberland). So the Frenchemen and Scottes returned int^ Scotlande the 
tame wayc they came, and whan they came into Scotlande they found the countrey 
destroyed ; but the people of tbe countrey dyde sette but lytell thereby, and sayd howe 
with thre or four poles shortly they would make again their houses, for they had sav- 
ed moche of their cattle in the forests. 

^* When the admiral and his company (he had come over to Scotland with about 
* mille lances tant chevaliers qu*escuyers la fleur de chevalerie et d'escuyerie,* that 
is to say about 1000 cavalry,) were returned ft-om England and come to Edinbor* 
rowes, they had endured great paync, and as then they coude finde nothing to bye for 
their money (the town of Edinburgh had lately been burned by the English army 
tinder Richard 11.). Wynes they had but lytell, and but small ale or beer, and their 

bredde was of barley or of otes, and their horses were deede for hunger And 

the Scottes sayd how the Frenchemen dyde them more domage than the Englisshe- 
men had done ; and whan it was demaunded of them why so ? they answered and 
nyde howe the Frenchemen as they rode abrode, they beat down and defbyled their 
oornes, as whete, barley, and otes (the wheat was no doubt only in a few fertile spots, 
such as the carses, and some parts of East Lothian, &c.) and would not kepe the 
highe wayes, but rather ryde through the com : of which domagos they sayde they 
wolde have of them a trewe recompence or they departed out of Scotland, and sayde 
howe they shulde nother have shyppe nor maryner to passe them over the see with- 
out their leave ; and dyvers other knightes and 6qu3rres complayned that their woodes 
were cutte downe by the Frenchemen to make them lodgynges......... 

The Yonge Kynge Charles (i. e, Charles VI.) and the Duke of Burgoync.Thc 

admiral said to them how the Scottes somewhat resembled the Englysshmen, because 
they be envious over strangers ; and moreover he sayde that he had rather be Erie 
of Savoye or Erie of Arthoyse, than be King of Scottes ; and sayde how he had seen 
all the power of Scotland in one day togyder, as the Scottes sayde themselfe, and yet 
be never saw togyder past 500 speres (i. e, cavalry), and about a xxx thoiisand other 
men of war ; the which nombre agaynst Englisshe archers, or agaynst a thousande 
of other good men of armes, coude not long endure. (About seventy years before 
this, however, the Scotch army had beaten Edward II. and his KngUsh archers at 
Bannoekbum in 1313). 



372 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

attend the tryst. When the land has remained sonie years in 
grass, it is usual to take two crops of oats, when from sixty to se- 
venty-six bushels of oats are frequently obtained at each cropping ; 
then follows a green crop, and the field is laid down with barley 
and grass seeds. 

The farming has been very much improved, of Jate years, in this 
parish. The land is kept clean, and the new system of furrow- 
draining has been adopted almost universally. This is the only 
efficient system, in lands which have a retentive]subsoiI. It was at 
first called wedge- draining, the section of the cutting being a frus- 
tum of a triangle inverted, whose base was about ten inches. A 
wedge of peat moss was then placed in the top of the drain, so as 
to leave a space of eight or ten inches perpendicular for a water- 
course. Tliis mode was found to have only a temporary effect, 
and the plan of laying for the water-course, a semicylindrical tile, 
which reposes on a flat tile of a breadth exceeding the diameter of 
the curved one by about half an inch, is the most approved method. 
This mode has been long adopted in England. A foot of space 
above the tiles is filled with broken sandstone or Carron cinders, 
through which the water percolates. The effect of these drains 
is most satisfactory, and the tenants are anxious to carry on the 
improvements, even without the assistance of the landlords, which 
was necessary before experience had established the good effects 
of the system.* Bone dust, t. e. bones ground to powder, has not 
been much used as a manure, although it has been applied with 
great success in the neighbourhood. The usual w^ages of a la- 
bourer are 10s. a week throughout the year. A good ploughman 
obtains from L.18 to L.22, besides the usual allowances. In ad- 
dition to the land above stated, there are 140 acres of moss in 
the parish, being a part of Letham moss. The soil beneath is 
of very good quality, but covered with a mass of decayed vege- 
table matter, in the form of peat moss, to the depth of from 10 
to 16 feet. Very little of it has been cleared; nor does it appear 
likely that it will be so, as there is no rapid stream by which the 
moss could be carried off. 

Manufactures, — There are several nailers ; but, with the excep- 
tion of the tambouring of muslins for the Glasgow houses, which oc- 

For some other particulars respecting draining, see the article Soil in a preced- 
ing part of this account. Under the article Soil, are also some remarks on the Hyp- 
num or fog in pastures, and some other matters relating to agriculture. 



LARBRKT. 373 

cupies a part of the time of the females in many of the cottages, the 
only manufactory of importance in the parish, is the iron manufac- 
tory at Carron. The number of people employed in this great 
work, and the consequent demand for every product of the soil, 
from an oak tree to a cabbage plant, renders an account of the pa- 
rish of Larbert and the Carron Iron-works almost identical. 

The Carron iron-works were first established at Carron in the 
year 1760, by a company consisting of Messrs Roebucks, Garbet, 
and Cadells, — Dr Roebuck being from Sheffield, and Mr Gar- 
bet from Birmingham. They procured workmen from these two 
places, which have been so long famous for their manufactured 
productions in iron and other metals ; and these workmen aided 
essentially in the erection and establishment of the Carron Iron- 
works. A charter was obtained in 1773, and judicious arrange- 
ments were made, which eventually contributed to the success of 
the works. The site of this work was chosen on account of the 
abundance of coal, and also the great water-power. The iron- 
stone and limestone are brought from a considerable distance.* It 
has been ever found that manufacture follows coal. The potteries 
at Newcastle-under-Lyne, situated in the centre of England, re- 
ceive the flint from near Gravesend, the sand from Lynn, and the 
clay from Devonshire : coal alone is found in Staffordshire, where 
the potteries are situated.* 

The command of water at Carron, both for water-power to turn 
wheels, and also as a mean of transport, is considerable. Above 
the foundery, is a reservoir covering thirty acres of land. A cut 
from the centre of the works connects them with the Carron River. 
The goods are stowed in lighters, which drop down to Grange- 
mouth with the tide, where they are shipped in smacks for the 
London market. A double rail-road communicates with the Forth 
and Clyde Canal, and thus the goods are conveyed to Glasgow 
and Liverpool. 

In the year 1786, the management of the works was committed 
to Mr Joseph Stainton, who improved the works, and by unre- 
mitting diligence in the execution of orders, and great attention 
to the quality of the goods offered to the public, placed the foun- 
dery in the high position which it now holds in the estimation of 

• All the ironstone used is of the species called by miueralogists clay ironstone. 
Some of it is'got in the coal measures at Carron Hall, a mile from the works. Some 
at Banton, Tamrawer, and other places in the parish of Kilsyth, ten miles distant, 
and brought down by the Forth and Clyde Canal. Some is collected at different 
places on the shore of the Frith of Forth. Some is got from other places. 



374 STIBLINGSHIBE. 

the commercial world. During the war, a considerable part of the 
iron cannon used by Goremment, was made at Carron^ and the 
excellence of the guns was so uniform, that the officers of the dif> 
ferent branches of the service gave a decided preference to Cur- 
ron, over all the other founderies which were employed from time 
to time. 

We can attest, from personal inspection, that the guns of Duke 
Wellington's battering train were all from Carron. This is not 
an occasion to discuss the comparatiTe merits of brass and inm 
ordnance ; but so conclusire has been the disquisition to the mind 
of the French Oovemment, that^ in the year 1885, a committee 
of French artillery officers was permitted by the Carron Compao; 
to superintend the construction of some trial guns, which had been 
ordered by the French, with the sanction of our Gk)TemmeDt. 
This liberal conduct need not awaken national jealousy, as, with 
regard to the mixture of ores and the composition of the metal, 
which is the only secret worth knowing, the Frenchmen went 
just as wise as they came. The iron-work has been for ten years 
under the management of Mr Joseph Dawson, nephew of the late 
Joseph Stainton, who has greatly improved the works. Near!; 
8000 tons of pig-iron are smelted from the ironstone annually, and 
manufactured into every description of article^ from an ounce 
weight to a boiler of several tons. 1200 men are employed about 
the work, exclusive of a very large farming establishment, Bhd a 
marine comprising six large smacks trading to London, three to 
Liverpool, and numerous sloops used in carrying lime and iron* 
stone. A substantial double rail-road connects the foundery with 
the collieries of Kinnaird and CarronhalL Another railway forms 
a communication between the works and the shipping wharf oa 
the Forth and Clyde Canal at Bainsford. 

For many years, there have been five blast-furnaces ; two of 
those have been lately pulled down and rebuilt on a new construc- 
tion, adapted to the application of the hot-blast. The engine 
employed for the blast is of very large dimensions, having a steam 
cylinder of 66 inches diameter, and making on an average sixteen 
to eighteen strokes per minute. 

The Carron Iron-works were, for many years, the lai^est in Scot- 
land ; but recently some of the blast-furnace establishments near 
Glasgow have been increased, so as to surpass the number of 
blast-furnaces at Carron. 

Some of the English works, also, are larger. Messrs Craw- 



LAUBERT. 37^. 

shay and Sons in Glamorganshire had, in 1835, so great a number 
as thirteen blast-furnaces, if I recollect right, and they, moreover,^ 
convert the cast-iron into the malleable state of bar-iron, a very im- 
portant process, which is not carried on at Carron, and which has 
not yet, in 1839, been done, to any considerable extent in Scotland. 
The glassy slag from the blast-furnaces, consisting of vitrified 
lime and other earths, * called in the district danders^ was long 
an incumbrance, and huge hills of this scoria were accumulated. 
In consequence of the attention paid to the repair of roads, this 
material (in the absence of metal of greater endurance,) is so 
much in request, that it (the danders) is carried away as soon as 
taken from the furnace. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market^Tovon. — There is no market-town in the parish ; and the 

several large villages of Carronshore, Stenhouse muir, Cuttyfield, 
Quarol, Larbert, are parts of the Carron Iron-works, or its depen- 
dent collieries, all of which places are supplied with butch er- 

This tlag swims on the surface of the liquid iron in the furnace. It consists of 
all those parts of the coke, limestone, and ironstone, which are vitrifi:iblc by the licat 
of the furnace. It consists of sih'cate of lime, and, if I recollect right, the colour 
which prevails in the slag has been ascribed by tome modern chemists to silicate of 
tetanium. In an iron smelting-furnace, commonly called a blast-furnace, the iron, 
which in the ironstone exists dispersed in very minute particles in the state of oxide 
of iron, is deprived of its oxygen by the carbon of the coke, and is thereby reduced 
to the state of cast-iron. The small drops of this cast-iron collect gradually during 
twelve hours, and falling down, unite together into a liquid mass in a cavity at the 
bottom of the furnace. On the top of the liquid iron in this cavity, the slag swims 
and flows out in a liquid red-hot sute. At the end of every twelve hours, the keeper 
of the furnace, a strong muscular man, taps the cavity, by perforating and demolish- 
ing forcibly, witli an iron bar, the dam of fire-clay which forms the front of the ca- 
vity. When an opening is thus made, the liquid iron flows out in the state of cast- 
iron, and is received in cavities made in the sand, which give it the form of pieces of 
about two-and-a-half feet long, <»lled pigs, and the iron in this state is called pig- 
iroH. After the melted iron has been let out and cast into pig6,t the keeper again 
makes up the front of the cavity with fire-clay, and the cavity then receives again the 
melted iron, which drops into it from the body of the furnace during the next twelve 
hours ; the sides of the lower part of the furnace being in form of a funnel, which 
terminates in the cavity. 

t Cast-iron is called in Scotch peilin, a word derived from the same root as gietcn, 
Dutch ; giutay Swedish ; gyde^ Danish ; gteaseui German ; Jeter ^ French ; all which 
signify to cast. GuM-eUen, German, is from the same root. The English word, to 
l^h, is also from the same root. 

Cast-iron appears to have been unknown to the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and 
Romans* I do not know of any instrument of cast-iron amongst the works of these 
nations which are preserved. 

Cast-iron has long been made in China and Japan. The Chinese cast it into the 
form of bowls for boiling rice in and other vessels. 

About 1740-1750, no cast-iron was made in Scotland, and the cast-iron plates used 
for the backs of fire-places in rooms were imported from Holland. They had the 
figure of a parrot on them in relief, and other figures ; some of these were pcrhai>« 
made at Siegen, in Germany. 



876 STIBLINGSHIRB. 

meat from Falkirk, at a distance of three miles, or by butcher-carts, 
which weekly visit the parish. 

Means of Communication. — There is a penny-poet at Carron 
and another at Larbert The mail and a daily coach pass through 
Larbert, and coaches twice a-day pass through Carronshore, af- 
fording conyeyance to either Edinburgh or Glasgow. 

Eedenattical State. — The parish church is most incommoiUous- 
ly situated at the extreme west end of the parish. It contains sit* 
tings for 1 200 persons, all of which are free except those appro- 
priated to the heritors and their tenants. The manse was built 
in the year 1790, and in 1828, a large addition was made to it 
The glebe consists of four acres of good land, and of a grass glebe 
of five acres. The stipend is sixteen chalders and a-half of oat^ 
meal and barley. A helper is employed for the unitedparishes, who 
receives from the heritors L. 60 yearly. On the whole, the church 
is well filled ; in the very cold weather, many of the workmen who 
are employed during the week over large fires, are unwilling to 
expose themselves to the cold of the church. There are in the 
parish about 1200 Dissenters ; but there is no place of worship 
but the church. The Dissenters, u e. the Seceders, &c. go to 
public worship in the Seceders^ churches at Falkirk, &c. 

Education. — There are in the parish seven schools, viz. the parish 
school, one endowed and five unendowed schools, at which 513 chil- 
dren are regularly taught. This is a smaller number, with reference 
to the population, than could be desired, and it arises in a great mea- 
sure from the circumstance that thecolliers, moulders, and others, 
are enabled to turn their children's labour to profitable account at 
the age of twelve years. The style of teaching is extremely good. 
The explanatory system is adopted, and in many instances is suc- 
cessfully pursued. 

English grammar, geography, writing, and arithmetic, are ge- 
nerally taught. Latin is also professed in several of the schools ; 
but here, as elsewhere, the taste for the study of dead languages 
is on the wane. 

The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and the 
school fees are worth about L. 60 per annum. The usual charge 
for teaching the ordinary branches, is threepence a week for each 
child. 

There is a school within a reasonable distance of every house in 
the parish. 



LARBERT. 377 

Library. — There is a parish library under the care of the mi- 
nister. 

Friendly Society. — There is no savings bank in the parish, but 
there is a Friendly Society at Carron, which is managed with great 
ability, and which has a most advantageous effect Th^re are al- 
so several dead funds for defraying the funeral expenses of the sub- 
scribers or their families. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The management of the poor is en- 
tirely in the hands of the minister and kirk-session, who attend most 
carefully to their duties in this respect, as well as to the more di- 
rect duties of their sacred office. The number of persons on the 
poor roll is, on an average, 86. The following is a statement 
of the usual funds to meet the expense incurred. 

Annual lubseription from the heritors, being at the rate of L.4 Ster- 

ling on the L.I00 ScoU yaluation, . . . L. 26 

Collection at the church door, - - • 70 . 

BonatioDy - • - ... 800 



Total, - L. 104 i) 

In addition to the above, there is a sum of L. 500 given to the 
poor by the late Colonel Simpson of Plean, the yearly interest of 
which is expended in coal and food for the poor during the severest 
weather. Many of the resident heritors have a list of pensioners 
whom they relieve weekly. 

Fairs. — The tryst of Falkirk is held within the parish of Lar« 
bert, (on a dry sandy level moor or heath, the property of Sir Mi- 
chael Bruce,) on the second Tuesday of the month of August^ 
September, and October. The first market is only for black-cat* 
tie. The two last are much more numerously attended. At each of 
these markets, there are about, 'l^^ tryst, 4000 black-cattle, 400 
horses and ponies; 2d and 3d trysts, 17,000 black cattle, 20,000 
sheep, 700 horses and ponies. The tryst is of considerable advan- 
tage to the country, as it occasions a demand for grass and foggage. 
The second crop of clover is generally let for the two last markets, 
at the rate of L. 2 per acre ; and a great deal of money is also cir- 
culated among the keepers of public-houses. 

It is much to be lamented, that the number of houses licensed 
for the sale of spirits is so great ; and there can de no doubt that 
the habitual use of ardent spirits has had a most injurious effect 
upon the morals of the people. The magistrates have endeavour- 
ed to check the increase of these houses ; but the use of this al- 



378 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

coholic spirit, namely, whisky, is by no means diminisliecL Tlie 
parish is well supplied with coal, and at a cheap rate. 

There are several vessels belonging to Carronshore^ but these 
all belong to the Carron Company, who have also a small diy- 
dock at the same place, where these vessels are repaired. 

MiSCBLLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 

In the-parish of Larbert, the working class enjoys the means of 
comfort, to as great an extent as in any part of Britain. The people 
are well lodged,* fuel is cheap, the schools are admirably conduct- 

* The bousei of the country people, which are now building from time to timt to ' 
replmoe the old and decayed dwellings, are more roomy and more conYenieot,— tatler 
built and better roofiMlr--4be walls and the doors higher, and the windowa lai^ tha 
tb^ were in the old bouses. 

The houses of the country peo(^ gcneraUy consist of a ground floor, witfaoot any 
upper floor. A laigh house it is culed in Scotch, lliis ground floor is about 90 
Ifeet by 15, divided by a transyerae wall into two rooms of about 15 leet square each. 

Tlie entrance is in the middle oTone of the dO feet side^ The outer door enters into 
a small lobby. From this lobby there is on one hand a door into the kitchen, and oa 
the other- hand a door into the other room. In the old dwellings of the countiy 
people in this part of the country, the outer door was near one end of the house, and 

SfeVitrance to the first room « from this first room there was a door which led to the 
oer room. The house consisted of a but and a ben in the language of the country. 
The but, (be out, i. e. towards the out,) was the outer room. The ben (be in, i e, 
towards the in,) was the inner room. A few of the present dwelling-houses are largw 
er, and have two floors, a ground floor and an upper floor. The roofr are now sh* 
dom covered with straw thatch ; they are most oonunonly covered with pan tile^ and 
many of the new ones are covered with slate. 

A thick thatch of straw laid upon the roof of a house is a good non-conductor of 
heat, and consequently keeps out the cold and keeps in the warmth produced by the 
fire, and by the inhabitants ; and also keeps out the heat of the sun better than a co- 
vering of tile ; but has the disadvantage of being apt to take fire by sparks fidling oo 
it from the chimney. 

Wheat straw is preferred to other kinds of straw for thatch. Straw from which the 
ears have been cut without threshing, is better than threshed straw. But this ope- 
ration is too troublesome, and, therefore, threshed straw is usually employed. The 
sheaves should be threshed with the flail, taking care not to bruise the straw, or si 
least as, little as possible. Straw from the threshing mill is bruised and unfit for 
thatch. ' 

The stalks of lint are sometimes used in some parts of the adjjacent country as thatcb. 

The stalks ofbrakcns {PterUaquUinayaTii used as thatch in some parts of the High- 
lands ; heather also. Keeds are used in some places. 

In tropical countries the leaves of palms of different kinds, &c. arc used for thatch. 

The older kind of thatched roof, which is still used in some parts of the adjacent coun- 
try, is made by laying sticks upon the roof. Tbc sticks are pretty close together and pa- 
rallel to the rafters. On these sticks, which are.undressed, straightish branches of trees, 
there are laid thin turfs, called divots, pared from the su^ce of an old pasture. 
These divots are laid like tile in an imbricated form, and under each divot is laid the 
end of a handful or wisp of straw, which straw forms the thatch. The divou serve to 
keep the straw flzed to the roof. The rafrers, called in this part of the country the 
couples, and the other timbers of these old roofr, consist of round unsquared sticks. 

In the newer method of thatching, and which is ndw more generally used than the 
other in this parish, there are laths nailed to the rafters transversely, and to these laths 
the straw is tied by tarred rope yams. This is done by passing the rope yam through 
the straw and round the lath by means of a long iron needle a foot or more in length. 

Thatch, and the equivalent word in the language of this part of the country, thecA\ 
are of the same etymological class of words, as theacati, Anglosazon, to cover ; theac, 
Anglosaxon, a roof; dach, German, a roof; tego^ Latin, to cover ; tectum, Latin, a tooL 



DUMPACE. 879 

ed, aDd the markets are reasonable as to price, and very abundant- 
ly supplied. The people are on the whole intelligent. They have 
one bad habit, a propensity to drinking, and, like its sister fire, a 
good servant but a bad master ; — many a clever fellow falls a vic- 
tim to whisky. 

Parish of Dunipace.' 

I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Topography. — The parish of Dunipace is bounded on the west 
and north by the parish of St Ninians ; on the east, by the parish 
of Larbert ; and on the south, by the parishes of Falkirk and 
Denny, the far-famed river Carron separating it from the latter 
for nearly five miles. Its form approaches to that of a triangle, and 
it contains about 4600 Scots acres ; valued rent in the cess-books, 
L.3i38, lis. 8d. ; real rental, including lands, mills, quarries, and 
annual produce of woods, upwards of L.6000 Sterling. The teinds 
are all valued, some at a more early, and some at a more recent 
date. They amount to L.483, 9s. dj^d. 

Name, — This parish takes its name from two beautiful earthen 
mounts called <^ the Hills of Dunipace," situated in a small but 
beautiful plain, traversed by the* river Carron. They are about 
sixty feet in height, and both together cover about two Scots acres. 
Buchanan says their name is derived from Dun or Dununiy the Cel- 
tic word, signifying a hill or tower on a hill, and the Latin word/?ajr, 
peace. Other etymologists, say with much more probability, that 
the name is derived from two Celtic words, Duin-na-Bais^ or Duna 
has, (pronounced pasy) hills or tumuli of death. In writs issued by 
Edward I. of England, at Dunipace, 14th October 130 1, it is written 
Donypas. Buchanan, and most historians after him, say that these 
hills are artificial. He adds, that they were raised to commemorate a 
peace concluded between Donald I. and the Roman Emperor Se- 
verus, in the early part of the third century. These opinions appear 
to be wholly untenable. Any lengthened discussion on this subject 
being inconsistent with this work, we merely mention, that, in the 
immediate neighbourhood, there are several similar though less re- 
markable earthen mounts. About two miles to the westward of 
these hills, there was a very beautiful one about forty feet in height, 
and covering nearly three roods of ground, said also to be artificial. 
This hill was mutilated, from time to time, for the purpose of re- 

• Drawn up by Mr Robert Watson, Parochial Schoolmaster of Dunipace. 



380 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

• 

pairing roads and other purposes. It was entirely remoYed about 
six years ago, to form an embankment on the turnpike road near 
Denny bridge. The strata of which this hill was composed, were 
carefully observed during its removal These were so regular, 
and as if rising out of, and gradually returning again to similar 
strata in the circumjacent level ground, as to afford conclusive evi- 
dence that the hill was not the work of man. On the top of 
this hill, and about three feet below the surface, was found a ooSn 
or tomb, composed of five large unwrought stones, in which were 
the bones of a human body, scull and teeth not much decayed. 
Along with these, was a vase of coarse unglazed earthenware, con- 
taining a small quantity of material resembling the lining of a 
wasp's nest, probably decayed paper or parchment, which in the 
lapse of ages had assumed that appearance. No conjecture could 
be formed about the individual here interred, tradition being en- 
tirely silent on the subject ; but this circumstance corroborates the 
opmion of some writers, that the hills of Dunipace might have been 
used as burying-places for ancient chiefs. For, previous to the 
erection of bridges in this district, the ford in the vicinity of these 
hills was the principal passage over the Carron, and would be the 
scene of many a bloody conflict between hostile armies. Hence 
the appropriateness of their name, << hills of death."* 

II. — Civil History 
Heritors* — There are twenty-nine heritors in this parish, of 
which the principal are, 

Estates. Proprietors* Names. Valued Rent. 

Dcnovan, James Johnston, Esq. of Alva, L. 779 17 7 

Dunipace, Thomas Spottiswoode, Esq. 441 3 9 

Quarter, John U. Brown, Esq. . 905 7 6 

Torwoodbead, Maior Dundas, Carron Hall, . 251 10 10 

Herbertshire, William Forbes, Esq. of Callcndsr, 156 4 4 

Bumhouse, Peier Muirhead, Esq . 116 13 8 

Houschill, Sir Gilbert Stirling, Bart. Larbcrt, 110 5 11 

Bogend, Robert Bauchop, Esq. . 102 5 8 

L.2263 9 "3 

The balance of L.875, 2s. 5d, is divided among the remaining 
twenty.one heritors, in various proportions ; only three of them are 

Pn-haps after all, the learned criticism that has been bestowed on the name 
" Dunipactf" the meaning simply may be " the round hills at the pass, •• e. over the 
Carron, or, the pass at the round hills.** It is in favour of our theory of these hills 
that the French form of the Celtic word Dun is " La Dune," plural « Les Dunes," 
meaning tmall conical hillocks, such as those sand hills on the coast of Kent, pcar 
Deal, the most of which are now covered with the sea. Hence that well known 
road for ships in the nei^bourhood of these hills is called the *' Downs." Tradition 
sayrthat^the site of the Dunipace hills was formerly covered by the German Ocean. 



DUNIPACE. 381 

under L.50 per annum of real rental. Of these twenty-nine 
heritors, eight are Dissenters, whose joint valuation amounts to 
L.401, 6s. 

Mansion-houses, — Herbertshire Castle. — This is a very ancient 
building. The date of its erection is unknown. Its situation on 
the north bank of the Carron is very beautiful. The banks of the 
river above the house are extremely picturesque, — sloping in 
stripes of verdant meadows, tufted with trees to the water's edge, 
and rising boldly into rocks fringed with brushwood, and crowned 
with plantations, amid which a beautiful variety of walks conducts 
to the most striking features of this romantic scene. It was 
originally a royal hunting station. In the fifteenth century, it was 
.in the possession of that once powerful family the Sinclairs, Dukes 
of Orkney. In the following century, it was the property of the 
Earls of Linlithgow, from whom it passed into a family named 
Stirling, cadets of the Stirlings of Auchyle in Perthshire. An 
heiress of this surname, Lady of Lord Alva, Senator of the Col- 
lege of Justice, sold it about seventy years ago to a Mr Morehead, 
whose grandson sold it in 1835 to the present proprietor, William 
Forbes, Esq. of Callendar, M. P. for the county of Stirling. 

Torwood Castle, — The ruin of this castle stands about a quarter 
of a mile to the westward of the turnpike road from Falkirk to 
Stirling, surrounded by the remains of the ancient Caledonian fo- 
rest. Its history is involved in much obscurity. It was long in 
possession of the Baillies, who were at the same time proprietors 
of Castlecarry, in the parish of Falkirk. One of these Baillies 
married a daughter of the first Lord Forrester, by whom he be- 
came father to the second Lord Forrester, from whom this estate 
came by purchase into the possession of the late Thomas Dundas, 
Esq.'grandfather ofthe present proprietor. Colonel Dundas of Carron 
Hall. The forest of Torwood is associated with all that is ennobling 
in patriotism and personal valour. Here stood Wallace's oak, 12 
feet in diameter, in the hollow of which he and his patriotic compani- 
ons, it is said, used to meet and concert their plans for wresting their 
country from the grasp of the ambitious Edward. This noble son of 
the forest disappeared about thirty years ago, after having weather- 
ed the storms of a thousand winters. Not far from the site of 
this tree, Mr Donald Cargill, in the month of September 1680, 
in the presence of a numerous assembly, pronounced sentence of 
excommunication against some of the most violent persecutors of 



882 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

that day, among whom were Charles II.» his brother, James Duke 
of York, Duke of Monmouth, and several other persons of note. 
This act of Mr Cargiirs was never publicly approved of by Pres- 
byterians. 

I>tm^pactf.-r-This beautiful estate was, in 1606, in the posses- 
sion of Mr John Levingston, who was one of the jury appointed 
to try six Presbyterian ministers at the instance of King James VL 
for meeting with some other ministers, and holding an Assem- 
bly at Aberdeen, in the preceding July, without his Majesty's con- 
sent, who was then exerting himself, by every means in his power, 
to erect Episcopacy on the ruins of Presbytery. Six of the jury 
voted, << not guilty,'' among whom was the laird of Dunipace, who^ 
says Calderwood, not only absolved these ministers fVom being 
guilty of treason, but maintained *' they were honest ministers, £Biith- 
ful servants of Jesus Christ, and good subjects of the King.'' This 
independent manly conduct of the laird of Dunipace, King James 
was weak enough to resent afterwards* This same gentleman, in 
1621, as Member of Parliament for the shire of Stirling, voted 
against the adoption of the ** five articles of Perth." Dunipace 
afterwards came into the possession of the Primroses, the last of 
whom. Sir Archibald, having in 1745 joined the rebel army under 
the Pretender, was taken prisoner and beheaded at Carlisle* Du- 
nipace then fell into the hands of Government, from whom it was 
afiterwards purchased by the father of the present proprietor, 
Thomas Spottiswoode, Esq. The mansion-house, which stands 
within a few yards of the site of the old church, is of modem ar- 
chitecture, and has an elegant appearance. 

Quarter-Housej the residence of John Harvie Brown, Esq. 
was built by the late Alexander Brown, Esq. on a rising ground 
to the eastward of the turnpike-road leading from Denny to Stir- 
ling. It had, for a number of years, rather a bleakish aspect ; but 
the clumps of tr6es intended to screen it from the north and west 
winds now growing up, give it both an elegant and comfortable 
appearance. 

Carhrooh-House^ the seat of John Campbell, Esq. is built in 
a very romantic situation, within half a mile of Torwood Castle, 
the woods around which adorn Mr. Campbell's house, in a very 
picturesque manner.* 

Since the above was written, the following alterations in the state of property 
have taken place, — James Johnston, Esq. of Alva, has sold Denovan to William For- 
bes, Esq. of Callendar, by which purchase Mr Forbes is now the first heritor. The 
Dunipace and Quarter estates are now conjoined by John Harvie Brown having 



DUNlPACE. 363 

III. — Population. 
The population of this parish in 1831 was 1278 ; since that time, 

from accommodation having been built for neariy fifty additional 
families, the number has increased to 1460,* of which above lOOOf 
belong to the Established Church ; the remainder, exclusive of 
those that attend no church, belong to the Dissenters, who have 
two places of worship, in the neighbouring parish of Denny. It 
is worthy of notice^ that the adherents of the Establishment have 
increased greatly here since the agitation of what is called the Vo- 
luntary Question, which has been conducted in this quarter with 
unexampled virulence. 

It is a curious fact, that there is neither a medical man nor a 
clergyman, a smith]: nor a wright, nor even a resident beggar in 
this parish ; and it is but of late, that there was either a baker or a 
tailor in it. The oldest resident families are the Muirheads of 
Tyggetshaugh and the Watsons of Wester Barnego. ■ 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — Of the 4600 acres which this parish contains, 
there may be about 500 acres under wood, partly planted and 
partly natural ; about 300 acres of moor, moss, and rock ; the re- 
mainder arable, but of very different qualities. Two-thirds of it 
lie on a substratum of sandstone ; the remainder on whin rock. 
It rises at its western extremity to the height of 600 feet above the 
level of the Forth. Its eastern parts terminate in the car3e of Stir- 
ling, a few feet above the level of that river. The average rental 
may be about L. 2 per Scots acre of what is reckoned good land. 
Some fields, however, on the banks of the Carron, let as high as 
L. 3 and sometimes L. 4 per acre. With a very few exceptions, 
the land is cultivated in as improved a method as it will admit of. 
The nature of the soil will not bear often cropping. A conside- 
rable proportion is always laid down in grass, for rearing and feed- 
ing cattle. Considerable quantities of turnips are raised, and still 
more of potatoes, which are generally of a very good quality. 
Formerly, flax was sown on every farm, but since foreign flax was 
so plentifully imported» that crop has given way to wheat, which 
grows here well. From the proximity of the Campsie hills, Den- 

marricd Miss Spottiswoode, heiress of the late Thomas Spottiswoode, Esq. of Duni- 
pace. This makes Mr Brown now the second heritor. 

• By the census of 1841, the population amounts to 1578, whereof 1100 belong 
to the ICstablishvd Church. 

t From the continually shifting, and anomalous nature of a calico-printing popu- 
lation, no accurate statistical account of them can be given. 

X Since the above was written, a smith has commenced business here, and is doing 
wclli 



884 STIRLIN08BIRE. 

ny-moor, and other high moorland districts, a great quan% of 
raiD falls, particularly during the continuance of the westerly windii 
which prevail here during eight months in the year ; yet, irom the 
unevenness of the surface, assisted by draining, there is seareelj 
any stagnant water in this district, a circumstance, no doubt, bfour- 
able to the health and comfort of the inhabitants. « From tbii 
draining and other agricultural improvements, the river Carnn, 
except in time of floods, discharges a much less quantity of wata 
than it did fifty years ago. To command a supply of that neces- 
sary article to the numerous mills on this stream, a lai^ reservoir 
has been lately formed on one of its feeders called EarFsBun^io 
the parish of St Ninians. Every article of fiatrm produce findi 
here a ready market and a good price. Rents are all in monej. 
Cattle are generally of a moderate size. Heavy ones are fiMuid 
not to be profitable on light soils, either for dairy or feedbg. 
Labourers' wages run about 10s. per week ; men-servants' L. 16| 
and women L. 9 per annum. The number of separate fisurms is 
forty, and of fiunilies depending on agriculture about axty-eiglit, 
being rather more than one-fifth part of the whole popuhuion. 

Manufaetwres. — There are two extensive and respectable calico* 
printing establishments in this parish, riz. Herbertshire and Deno- 
van. The former was begun in 1783, the latter in 1800. Tlie 
number employed at Herbertshire print-works, the property of 
Charles Carnie, Esq. in September 1836, was nearly as fol- 
lows: — Block-printers, journeymen, 16; apprentices, males, 44: 
females, 40. Tiercrs, one to each printer, and a few called paper- 
layers, 110; print-cutters, dyers, colour-mixers, labourers, &c. 
from twelve years of age and upwards, 100; girls employed in 
sewing and fringing, 80. Total number employed, 390. A great 
quantity of goods are printed here by machinery. Some of these 
machines put in four different colours almost at the same instant. 
Near these works, the proprietor has a genteel country resi- 
dence, but its beauties are considerably obscured by the low- 
ness of its situation, and by the proximity of the neighbouring viU 
lage of Herbertshire. 

The number employed at Denovan print-works, the property of 
James Graham Adam, Esq. from an ofiicial statement, is as under: 
— Block-printers, journeymen, 100; apprentices, males, 85; fe- 
males, 15. Print-cutters and pattern-drawers, 30; colour- mixers, 
dyers, bleachers, and general labourers, 80 ; sewers and fringers of 
shawls, vary, according to the season of the year, from 50 to 1 60, — 



DUNIPACK. 385 

average, say, 90 ; miscellaneous, employed during the course of 
the year, 20 ; tierers, composed of boys and girls, one to each 
printer, — the ages of this class of workers vary from six to twelve 
years, 200. Total number employed, 620. Journeymen printers 
earn from L. 1 to L.1, 10s. per week; male apprentices earn 
from 10s. to 15s.; and females from 5s. to 10s. per week, accord- 
ing to their respective skill and expertness; print-cutters and 
drawers earn from 15s. to L. 1, 15s; labourers from 7s. to 12s.; 
and tierers from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per week. 

Of the workmen belonging to these two printing establishments, 
about one-third are domiciled in this parish, the other two-thirds 
live in the opposite side of the river Carron, in the village of 
Denny ; consequently, the general manners of the inhabitants in 
both places are very similar. 

The scenery around Donovan Works fascinates the eye of every 
traveller. On their southern boundary, the red-roaring CSarron, 
with its thousand associations, just escaped from its native moun* 
tains, moors, and glens, rolls its now peaceful waves. A little to 
the eastward stands the parish church with its beautiful Gothic 
tower, rising majestically above the surrounding oaks. A few yards 
higher in the landscape, stands Mr Adam's House, delicately 
screened from the northern blasts, by the rising eminences in the 
back-ground of this beautiful panorama. 

Afills. — Thereare in this parish three grain-mills, two flax-mills, 
one mill for carding and spinning wool, and one for grinding charred 
wood for Carron Iron- Works. 

Qf/arries are four in number — all producing superior freestone. 

One of them abounds with excellent flag or pavement stone, which 

has an extensive sale. Considerable quantities of these flags are 

carried in carts and boats to a great distance. These quarries 

employ about 40 individuals. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Villages, — There are three villages — Herbertshire, Donovan, 

and Torwood ; the former contains about 76], and the two latter 
about 150 inhabitants each. There are eight tippling-houscs, one 
to every thirty-seven families ; and in the closely adjoining village 
of Denny, there is a tippling-house for every twenty families, and 
the whole seem to be well-frequented, some of them both night 
and day. 

Bridges. — Previous to the year 1824, carriages passed the Car- 

STIRLING. B b 



3S6 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

roD near Dunipace House by a ford, and foot-travellers by siepf. 
In that year, a handsome bridge of three arches was erected a little 
below the ford. In I8289 the bridge over the Carron, between 
the parishes of Dunipace and Denny, on the Glasgow and Stirling 
road, being considered unfit, from its height and narrowness, for 
the wheel-carriages of the present day, and also in an unsafe state 
from its age, was removed, and a neat substantial bridge of three 
arches erected in its place. 

Farmtrs' Society. — About two years ago, a Farmers* Society was 
formed for the purpose of encouraging agricultural improvements and 
particularly for improving the breed of cattle. The Society has a 
ploughing-match and a cattle-show every year. Almost all the 
proprietors and farmers in the parish are members. Much good, 
in these particulars, has already been done, and much more is ex« 
pected from the exertions of this respectable Society. 

Poor. — The number of poor on the roll averages about 10, who 
receive from Is. to ds. per week respectively. The heritors assess 
themselves annually, generally at the rate of 20s. per hundred 
pounds Scots of valued rent. The amount from collections at 
church door, and interest of a sum belonging to the parish, varies 
from L. 50 to L. 60 per annum. Besides this, the late William 
Simpson, Esq. of Plean, left L. 500 to the kirk-session for behoof 
of the poor not on the roll. The interest of this sum is expended 
annually in purchasing coals, paying house rents, and otherwise, 
as the kirk*session may direct. 

Schools. — There are two schools — the parochial school, situat- 
ed near the centre of the parish, and a private school in the small 
village of Torwood. The greater part of the scholars attending 
this school, come from the contiguous parishes of St Ninians and 
Larbert There was a parochial school- house built in this parish 
in 1 696, but whether it was the first in the parish or not, canaot 
be determined, — the parish, or- rather existing session records, ex- 
tending no farther back than 1707. The number of scholars at- 
tending the parochial school has averaged, for the last twenty years, 
about 60. Fees for reading, 2s. 6d., with writing, 3s. ; arithme- 
tic, 3s. 6d. ; Latin, French, and Greek, 5s. per quarter. The 
schoolmaster is kirk-treasurer, for which he receives L. 2, 2s. per 
annum. The salary is the maximum. The schooUroom and 
school-house are built on a liberal scale. The garden is of there- 
quired extent. The office of session-clerk, worth L. 5 per annum, 
has not been held by the present schoolmaster, nor by his imme- 



DUNIPACE. 387 

diate predecessor. The number that cannot read, is not great ; 
but many, particularly of the female part of the rising generationi 
read so imperfectly, that they can reap little practical bene6t from 
it. This arises chiefly from the prevailing but reprehensible prac- 
tice of putting mere infants to work,»in the several manufactories 
in tliis district. 

Ecclesiastical History.-^Tlus parish was originally a chapel of the 
parish of Egglis, now St Ninidns, and was conveyed, along with the 
other chapels and oratories of that parish (t. e. the said abbey was 
foundedvery lately before the said annexations) to the newly founded 
Abbey of Cambuskenneth, by Robert the sixteenth Bishop of St An- 
drews, about the year 1 ISO. An uncle of the renowned Sir William 
Wallace was parson or officiating priest of Dunipace, in the latter 
part of the thirteenth century. Sir William frequently made his 
uncle's house his home. The following lines, said to be composed 
by his uncle in the fashionable style of that period, were often re- 
peated by that hero ; 

Dico tibi vcnim, libertas 6st optima rerum 
Nunquam senrili sub nexu vlvito fill. 

Which may be translated, — 

I tell you truth, of all things liberty's the best, 
O never be my son with slavery opprest. 

At the period of the Reformation, Dunipace and Larbert were 
erected into separate parishes. Dunipace was then more popu- 
lous, and by far more wealthy than Larbert, so much so, that the 
latter parish could not maintain a minister. A union, therefore, 
with Dunipace was desired, and accomplished under the authority 
of two acts of the Scottish Parliament 1617 and 1624. From va- 
rious documents, and from immemorial usage, it appears that the 
terms of union were, " That there should be one minister only for 
the two parishes ; that each parish should retain and maintain its 
own church, and its own school ; that each parish should have its 
own kirk-session, and maintain its own poor separately ; that the 
celebration of Divine service, and the pastoral labours of the mi- 
nister should be equally divided between the parishes." It appears 
also, in consequence of the above terms of union, that Divine ser- 
vice was uniformly celebrated alternately in both churches. The 
sacrament of our Lord's supper was also uniformly dispensed alter- 
nately, the Fast-day services preceding each scrament being per- 
formed in the church of the other parish. On other occasional 
fasts, public worship was observed alternately. This union seems 
to have given satisfaction to all concerned, till after the induction 



388 SlIHLINGSHIRE. 

of tlie late Dr Robert Knox, in 1794, \vheu a deviation from the 
terms of union was observed to take place, by the minister pieaeb- 
ing oftener in Larbert than in Dunipace. 

This apparent indifference about Dunipace on the part of the 
minister, reduced still farther the debris of that congregation, the 
greater part of whom had already become Seceders. At last, on 
the *28th of April 1799, alternate service was finally given up. In 
1801, complaint was made to the presbytery of Stirling against 
Dr Knox, who obtained a vague kind of sentence in his &vour, 
which was afterwards confirmed by the synod of Perth and Stir* 
ling " allowing Dr Knox to preach oftener in Larbert than in 
Dunipace, on account of the increase of population in the former 
parish ;" — a decision evidently ultra vires of any ecclesiastical court, 
the civil rights of the parish being thereby injured, such as the col- 
lection for the poor, &c. After this. Divine service was performed 
two days in Larbert, and one in Dunipace till 182dt when Dr 
Knox declined preaching altogether in the parish of Dunipace. 
The sacrament of our Lord's supper was not administered in Du- 
nipace, after 1795 till 1880. A process before the church courts 
was commenced by the heritors in June 1825, for recovering the 
rights of the parish of Dunipace ; but the death of Dr Knox in the 
mouth of December following, put an end to that contest. The 
present incumbent, the Rev. John Bonar, was inducted to the 
charge of these parishes in 1826, and immediately resumed the 
practice of preaching two Sundays in Larbert, and one in Duni- 
pace. But the impropriety of having either of these parishes 
without the regular dispensation of Divine service, became so ap- 
parent to all concerned, that, after some preliminary arrangements, 
an assistant to Mr Bonar, at the joint expense of both parishes, 
was obtained, by which Divine service was performed in both 
churches every Lord's day. Mr Bonar, however, continued io 
preach as above, till the opening of the new church of Dunipace. 
Since that time, Mr Bonar has preached alternately in both churches, 
agreeably to the original terms of union between these parishes. 
The congregation of Dunipace has, from a few individuals, increas- 
ed to several hundreds. The kirk-session at present consists of 
the moderator and three lay elders.* Here, as elsewhere, there 
is an unwillingness to accept of that office. 

Old Church. — This church was situated within a few yards of 

• Since the above was written, other two elders have been elected, — making the 
present number five. 



DUNIPACE. 389 

the " Hills of Dunipace," where the burying-ground belonguig to 
the parish) still is. It was a very plain building, with galleries in 
front and ends, affording accommodation for 350 sitters. The 
date of its erection is unknown. From several appearances of 
arches in its walls, it probably had originally several aisles attached 
to it. Its stability was not called in question, till two or three 
years before its removal, when a mason was employed to insert in 
its front wall, a marble tablet to the memory of William Simpson, 
Esq. who left, as above stated, L. 500 to the poor of the parish* 
This mason, and others employed for the purpose of inspecting it , 
declared its walls to be in a dangerous state ; of which opinions the 
result was 

The New Church* — This church stands a mile and a half to the 
westward of the old church, on the top of one of these little knolls 
with which, as was formerly noticed, this district abounds. Its si- 
tuation is peculiarly fine. It is built in the Gothic style, with a 
tower, in which there is a very good bell. It is seated for 604 in- 
dividuals, and cost L. 2500. It was opened for public worship on 
Sunday the 29th of June 1834. 

Stipend. — The parishes of Dunipace and Larbert, being under 
the pastoral superintendence of one minister, his stipend is allo- 
cated from thb teinds of both parishes. The stipend, as fixed by 
the Court of Teinds in 1823, the period of the last augmentation, 
is 8^ chalders of barley and 8^ chalders of oatmeal, at the fiar 
prices of the county, with L. 16, 13s. 4d. for communion elements. 
The manse was lately repaired at the mutual expense of both pa- 
rishes. These repairs cost L. 660. At the manse, which stands 
in the parish of Larbert, there is a good glebe, the common pro- 
perty of both parishes, and there is another glebe belonging to the 
parish of Dunipace, worth at least L. 10 per annum. The Crown 
is patron. 

Revised September 1841. 



PARISH OF STIRLING. 

PRESBYTERY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OP PERTH AND STIBLING* 

REV. ALEX BEITH, Ut Charge, We»t Churchy ) 

REV. GEO. CUPPLES, 2d Charge, East Church, \MinuUr$.* 

REV. ALEX. LEITCH, Sd Charge, East ^ West Do. } 



1, — Topography and Natural History. 

Latitude and Longitude. — Stirling Castle is situated in la- 
titude 56^ 6' north, and longitude 3^ 55' west. 

Name. — The etymology of the name is uncertain. The names 
Stirling and Strivilin or Stryviling were, at one period, both io 
use, as we find them both occurring in the same Acts of Parlia- 
ment The latter name, at an earlier period, almost uniformly oc- 
curs ; and this in documents reaching back to the beginning of 
the twelfth century. On the other hand, it appears from a pas- 
sage in William of Worcester's Itinerary, that, as early as his time, it 
was known by the name of Styrlyng. By Buchanati and others, 
who have Latinized the name, it has been called Sterlinum. On 
the present seal of the burgh, there are the words Sterlini oppidum. 
On an ancient seal, the castle is called Castrum Strivilense.* The 
place was also, at a very early period, known by the name of Snow- 
don, which is said to signify thefortijied hill on the river. 

Extentj Boundaries, Figure, Sfc. — The parish is 2 miles in its 
greatest length from west to east; and 1| mile in its great- 
est breadth from north to south. Its figure is very irregular ; de- 
pending iu some places on the waving line of the Forth, in others 
on the deep indentations made in it by the parish of St Niuians. 
By this parish it is bounded on the west, south, and east; by the 
parish of Logie, on the north-east and north ; and by the parish of 
Lecropt, on the north. It contains, besides the site of the town 
and castle, and the numerous gardens, &c. connected with them, 

• Drawn up by the Rev. George Cupples, East Church, Stirling. 

f Tlie Rev. Mr Stirling, Minister of Port, who edited Nimmo's History of Stir- 
lingshire, a learned antiquary, and extensively acquainted with the topography of 
this district, conjectures that the ancient name was Srrila, and gives the following ety* 
myology ; " stri^h** strife, and " laghy"* bending the bow ; StrighJagh^ the strife of 
archery. Mr Stirling says of himself that, not being a Gaelic scholar, he took great 
pains to ascertain from those who were accurately acquainted with the language, the 
etymology of the names of places in the county. 



STIRLING. 391 

1030^ imperial acres. The soil of the landward part is generally 
of a rich carse clay. The King's Park, which is somewhat ele- 
vated above the carse, and of an undulating surface, and some parts 
of the high grounds in the neighbourhood of the castle, consist of 
what is here called dry-field, that is, a sharp, warm soil, adapted 
to the cultivation of oats, barley, turnips, &c There is scarcely 
any waste hilly ground in the parish. There are no caves or ca- 
verns. The sloping eminence on which the upper part of Stirling 
and its citadel are built, in combination with the River Forth, the 
rich vale through which it flows, and the magnificent scenery 
formed by an extended plain and fine ranges of hills and moun- 
tains beyond, give it great picturesque beauty. This eminence 
rises gradually from the south-east, and terminates abruptly on the 
north-west On the highest part of it, where it is girt by lofty and 
precipitous rocks, at an elevation of 220 feet above the plain, 
stands the ancient Castle of Stirling, which, when seen from the 
south or west^ itself forms, with its solemn gray battlements and 
tower, and the sheer precipice beneath, an object of greatand strik- 
ing beauty ; and commands all around a panorama of almost un- 
rivalled loveliness and grandeur, comprehending in its details, (one 
of which is the extraordinary winding of the slowly receding and 
gradually extending river,) almost every feature that can gratify 
the sense of sight, and present to the mind an impressive image 
of natural beauty, adorned with the artificial, but legitimate, em- 
bellishments superadded by the hand of industry. At a small dis- 
tance, and in different directions, are seen three or four similar 
eminences, rising like this from the surrounding alluvial flat. All 
these, and especially the Castle-hill of Stirling, are said by those 
who have visited the East, to bear a striking resemblance to the 
eminences on which the Acropolis of Corinth and of Athens, and 
other citadels, are built. 

Meteorology. — The temperature ofthe atmosphere here, as com- 
pared with the neighbouring districts, is warm ; the ground being, 
with the exception of the upper parts of the town of Stirling, but 
a few feet above the level of the sea. In the winter season, the 
frosts are generally of short continuance, and alternated with open 
and comparatively mild weather. Occasionally, they are intense 
and continued ; even to the effect of, in some rare instances, co- 
vering the Forth with ice of considerable thickness, and making it 
practicable for sliding and skaiting, and converting it into a tho- 
roughfare between Stirling and the village of Cambuskenneth Ab- 



392 



STIBLINGSHIRE. 



bey. In summer, or rather towards the beginning and during the 
earlier part of autumn, the temperature is occasionally yery high, 
but seldom steady for more than a week or ten days at a time. 
Indeed, the changes between heat and cold, and wet and dry wea- 
ther, are great and frequent, and often very sudden through- 
out the year. 

Through the kindness of a gentleman residing here, who has 
kept an accurate register for some years, I am enabled to furnish 
the following tabular information, which I have deduced from his 
papers. 

Atmospheric pressure. — The following table shows the range of 
the barometer for every month of 1839 and 1840 : — 



Months. 


Highest. 
18d9. 1840. 


Lowest 
1839. 


1840. 


January, 


30.5 in. 


30.4 in. 


2a 10. 


2a7in. 


February, 


dO.3 


30.7 


29.2 


29.2 


March, 


80.3 


30.7 


29.3 


29.9 


April, 


30.7 


30.5 


29.4 


29.7 


Moy, 


30.3 


30.4 


29-3 


29.5 


June, 


30.3 


30.2 


29.3 


285 


July, 


30.3 


30.3 


29.5 


29.2 


August, 


30.3 


30.4 


29.5 


29.2 


September, , 


30. 


30.3 


29.1 


29.1 


October, 


30.5 


30.5 


29.6 


29.1 


November, 


30.1 


30.5 


29.1 


29. 


December, 


30.3 


30.5 


29.1 


29.2 



Means, 30.3083 30.45 29.2 29.1916 

The following shows the range of the barometer for every year 
from 1825 to 1809 inclusive :— 



1825 


Highest 30.7 in. 


1826 


30.6 


1827 


30.7 


1828 


30.6 


1829 


30.9 


1830 


30.7 


1831 


30.6 


1832 


30.5 


1833 


30.5 


1834 


30.7 


1835 


30.7 


1836 


30.5 


1837 


30.4 


1838 


30.5 


1839 


30.7 



January, 10. 


Lowest 29. in. 


January 18' 


March, 13. 


29. 


Dec 2. 


Feb. a 


29. 


January, 14. 


October 29. 


29.1 


May, 2. 


Dec. 13. 


29. 


April, la 


January, 12. 


29.1 


Nov. 7. 


January, 13. 


28.8 


Dec 7. 


January, 15. 


29.1 


Nov. 29. 


July, 80. 


29.1 


Oct. 2S. 


Dec. 14. 


28.9 


Dec. I. 


January, 3. 


28.9 


Oct. 2G. 


May, 4. 


2a7 


January, 23. 


April, a 


29. 


Oct. aa 


January 8. 


28.6 


Nov. 30. 


April 10. 


28. 


January, 7. 



Means, 30.62 29.02 

Temperature. — The following table shows the range of the ther- 
mometer for every month of 1839 and 1840: — 



Nfonths. 
January, 
February, 
3Iaroh, 



Highest. 


Tx>\vest. 


1830. 1840. 


ia*}9. 1840. 


48 46 


18 22 


4Q 47 


21 32 


45 47 


26 27 


6 







STIRLING. 






Highest. 


Lowest. 


Months. 


IB39. 1840. 


1839. 1840. 


April, 


54 56 


33 37 


May, - 


57 60 


39 41 


June, 


68 66 


52 51 


July, 


67 63 


55 55 


August, 


64 67 


49 50 


September, • , 


- 59 60 


45 43 


October, 


58 56 


35 36 


November - 


- 50 52 


22 31 


December, 


48 47 


21 23 


average for each month was as follows :- 


Months. 


1839. 


1840. 


January, 


32.29 


36.9 


February, 


- 35.32 


36.31 


March, - 


36.67 


39.32 


April, 


- 4a26 


48.26 


May, - 


49.32 


50.32 


June, 


. 58.83 


57.36 


July, - 


60.29 


58.58 


August, 


- 57.97 


59.93 


September, 


- 53.5 


51.26 


October, 


- - 46.67 


45.84 


November, 


42.3 


40.8 


December, 


- 36.03 


36.29 



393 



Mean daily averages, 46.0375 48.4308 

The hottest day in 1839 was the 18th of June, when the ther- 
mometer stood at 68^; the coldest the 10th of February, when it 
was at 2P. The hottest day in 1840 was the 7th of August, 
thermometer at O?"" ; the coldest the dOth of January, thermome- 
ter at 22. 

All the observations were made at 9 o'clock a. m. and 9 o'clock 
p. M. 

Weather, — The following table shows the recurrence during 
1840 of the other particulars, which, along with the pressure and 
temperature of the atmosphere, combine to form the character of 
the weather : — 









Days of 








Months. 


£. wind. 


W. wind 


, Calm. 


Rain. 


Frost. 


Snow. 


January, 


9 


12 


10 


17 


7 


3 


February, 


12 


15 


2 


13 


12 


4 


March, 


7 


21 


3 


6 


19 





April, 


. 13 


12 


5 


12 


2 





Blay, 


16 


12 


3 


16 








June, 


5 


21 


4 


20 








July, 





23 


8 


19 








August, 


8 


15 


8 


13 


1 





September, 


7 


16 


7 


21 


3 





October, 


4 


13 


14 


10 


11 


0. 


November, 


9 


4 


17 


15 


9 


2 


December, 


6 


5 


20 


10 


15 


2 



96 169 101 172 79 11 

On twelve days of the year gales occurred ; viz. in January, 4 ; 
February, 1; May, 1; June, 4; consecutively; November, 1. 



394 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

On the 22d October 1839, at or near 10 o'clock p. x^ two 
slight shocks of an earthquake were distinctly felt in several places 
in Stirling. 

There is no rain-guage here, by which the quantity of rain 
might be determined. 

The atmosphere of the lower part of the town being, from its 
trifling elevation, and from the heavy quality of the soil, some- 
what humid, combines with the variableness of the weather to pro- 
duce occasionally catarrh, sore-throat, influenza, and similar com- 
plaints. Typhus and scarlet fever also, from time to time, make 
their appearance, and prove severe ; the former chiefly, but by 
no means exclusively, among the poor ; the latter usually among 
the young. Small-pox, of late years, has often visited the town ; 
and has, in many instances, proved fatal. Measles and hooping- 
cough, as may be expected, frequently prevail, and carry off a por- 
tion of the children of the place. Cholera prevailed to a very con- 
siderable extent in Stirling and the neighbourhood, at the time of 
its general prevalence throughout the island. Ninety cases were . 
reported to the Central Board of Health, as having occurred in 
the town, of which fifty-nine terminated fatally. It broke out 
again in 1832. The cases were much fewer in number, but a 
larger proportion proved fatal. 

In forming an estimate of the healthfulness of any place, it 
must always be an interesting object to ascertain the compo- 
nent parts and qualities of the water daily consumed by the 
inhabitants. The water of the public wells here is spring-water 
brought from the Touch hills, three miles from the town, in a 
pipe of two inches calibre, delivering at its maximum 19,532 
imperial gallons in twenty-four hours, or, for each individual of 
the present population, 2.271 gallons ; and at its minimum, 7812 
gallons, or for each individual, .909 gallons per day, showing in 
seasons of drought a very inadequate supply, insufficient to pre- 
serve the cleanliness of the poorer classes, and consequently inju- 
rious to their health. It is very pure in its appearance, and its 
chemical analysis, discovering no other substance combined with 
it but muriate of lime, proves it to be really so. It is admirably 
adapted for domestic purposes. Besides the water supplied by 
the public wells, there is near the south Port, on the very verge of 
the parish towards St Ninians, that of the well called St Ninian's 
Well, on account of its having been dedicated to that saint. It 
is celebrated for its copiousness and purity. It is a hardish wa- 



STIRLING. 395 

ter, but of tow specific gravity, and much used for washiug. It 
has been calculated, that, were all the water proceeding from this 
spring forced into the pipes that supply the town, it would afiford 
every individual not less than 14.03 gallons per twenty-four hours. 
It is protected by a small building, part of which is supposed to 
have been a small chapel, but is more likely to have been a bath. 
Its temperature is very cold. It exhibits, in addition to muriate 
of lime, sulphate of lime, or plaster of Paris. It is, therefore, not 
quite so well adapted for culinary purposes as that of the public 
wells ; yet it is not, on account of the small quantity of sulphate of 
lime found in it, less wholesome. It is well adapted for, and much 
used in, brewing. The poorer classes in Stirling inhabit generally 
very old houses, many of them in closes closely congregated to- 
gether, and are far from being particular in removing from their 
neighbourhood the filth thrown from their dwellings. This must 
have a very injurious effect on their health. On the other hand, 
the immediate neighbourhood to the town of the King's Park^ af- 
fording a cheerful outlet into the fresh air, and a beautiful and 
bracing promenade, contributes much to counteract this unhealth- 
ful influence. The high elevation, too, of the upper parts of the 
town, promoting a free circulation of air, tends to diminish the 
dampness of the atmosphere, produced by the proximity of the 
river and other causes in the lower parts. So that, notwithstand- 
ing some disadvantages such as those that have been mentioned, 
the various healthful influences with which they are combined pro- 
duce, upon the whole, a salubrity so well known, as, along with 
the extraordinary beauty of the situation, to attract many families 
not connected with Stirling by nativity, relationship, or profession- 
al business, to settle themselves in it as residents. A remarkable 
illustration of the healthfulness of the climate may be given on the 
authority of the same medical gentleman* to whom I have been in- 
debted for many of the above particulars. The number of cases of 
consumption which have occurred in the Stirling Dispensary since 
its institution down to February 1 1 of this year, amounts to 26 ; the 
number of all diseases to 2809. These give a ratio of I in 108 
cases. In England the ratio, in every place where it has been de- 
termined, is much higher. In Worcester, it is 1 in 22 ; in Lon- 
don, I in 19; in Bolton-le-Moors, 1 in 21 ; in Plymouth, 1 in 
32 ; and at the Land's End, 1 in 28. In other words, for every 
case of consumption that occurs in Stirling, 4^ cases occur in the 
places just enumerated. The relative mortality from consumption 

• W. H. Forrest, Esq. 



396 PTIBLINGSHIRE. 

is also very low in this town ; 21 of the cases occurring in the dis- 
pensary proved fatal, and the deaths from all diseases amounted to 
252. This gives a ratio of 1 in 12 deaths. According to &r 
James Clarke, the most esteemed writer on the subject, the ave- 
rage relative mortality is as high as 1 in 3. By others, however, 
it is calculated as low as 1 in 5. If we take the medium between 
these, viz. 1 in 4, we should have had, instead of 21 fatal cases of 
consumption, no fewer than 63. This induction of facts surely jus- 
tifies the conclusion, that too much has not been ascribed to the 
highly favoured situation of Stirling, the purity of its atmosphere, 
and other advantages possessed by it, in reference to its general sa« 
lubrity. I may be permitted to add, that, within these very few 
years, several individuals have died at the advanced ages of 88^ 
89, and even 90 ; and that there are some still alive, who have at- 
tained to a great age, one of whom, a female, during the last 
month, entered upon her 94th year. 

The River Forth. — This is the only stream of water, deserving 
of notice, connected with the parish ; which, in some places, as 
has been already mentioned, it bounds ; and, in other places, in- 
tersects, by separating from the other portions of it the village 
and Barony of Cambuskenneth. This river, called by the Romans 
Bodotria, probably Latinizing, as best they could, its ancient Celtic 
name, respecting which nothing certain is now known, has its 
source from a spring in the northern side of Ben Lomond, near 
the summit ; traverses Stirlingshire for ten miles under the name 
of Duchray, augmented as it proceeds by numberless mountain 
streams ; then enters Perthshire, and receiving near Aberfoyle, in 
the river that issues from Lochard, an accession equal to the vo- 
lume of its own waters, takes the name of Avondow, or Black river; 
after running about five miles in Perthshire, it again joins Stirling- 
shire below Gartmore House, and obtains the name of Forth, 
which it retains throughout the remainder of its course. It is 
only when it approaches the immediate vicinity of Stirling, that 
it becomes distinguished for size and beauty. Having then receiv- 
ed the Teith and Allan, and beginning to be swollen by the tides 
which aflect it more than a mile above Stirling bridge, it has be- 
come both wide and deep ; and, not only by its magnitude and 
serpentine meanderings, forms a feature of great interest in the 
landscape ; but is navigable for vessels of various burden as high 
as the shore of Stirling. Downwards towards Alloa, it continues 
to be enlarged by receiving the Bannock-burn on the south, and 
the Devon on the north, and by the increasing influence of the 



STIRLING. 397 

tide ; and winds its way by a tortuous course, and with extraordi* 
nary majesty and beauty, to Alloa, where it begins to lose its cha- 
racter of a magnificent river in that of a noble estuary. The tide 
rises near the Drip bridge, at the point where it is arrested by a 
rock crossing the channel, five feefat stream-tide ; and about four 
fathoms lower down near Stirling. It has certain intermissions 
of ebb and flow, making a kind of secondary tide. Its utility as 
a navigable river is much impaired by fords, or rocky shallows, 
occurring in certain places a little below Stirling. But vessels of 
seventy tons burden reach the shore. The whole course of the 
Forth, from its source to Alloa, where it becomes an arm of the 
sea, may be estimated at about sixty miles ; although the actual 
distance between these two points does not exceed thirty-five miles. 
The surface, which it drains, is estimated at 541 square miles ; 
and it is believed, as the result of calculations, which appear to 
proceed on carefully ascertained data, that the fresh water it con- 
veys to the ocean, is about one-half of what is discharged by the 
Spey, and one -fourth of what is discharged by the Tay. It is 
thus, in point of magnitude, the third of Scottish rivers. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — The rocks are of the coal-formation. 
They crop out within a mile of the ridge of the Castle-hill at Craig- 
forth on the north-west, and at Causewayheadon the north ; where 
they are met by the old red sandstone, which continues to Callan- 
der. Under the town and castle, and in the King's Park, which 
is to the south of these, the coal-formation is surmounted by green- 
stone, which, in a few instances, assumes a regularly formed 
columnar aspect. The fossil remains are marine shells. In 
the alluvial clay there is a stratum of vegetable matter, in which 
are found pieces of decayed wood, hazel-nuts, and reeds ; which 
seem to have been deposited by water, and which generally lie 
from 10 to 14 feet below the surface. This stratum extends 
not less than six miles near the margin of the Forth. Its breadth 
is unequal. It is found in some places, a mile from the river. It 
varies from 6 to 16 inches in thickness ; but, considering the pres- 
sure of the superincumbent mass of clay upon it, we are led to 
conclude that its thickness must have been originally much great- 
er. In the coal-formation have been found thin strata of ironstone, 
and in the greenstone there are seen veins of calcareous spar. The 
alluvial deposits are clay, sand, and gravel. In some places the 
sand and gravel are 40 feet deep. The clay has in one place been 
ascertained to be upwards of 70 feet in depth. Under the gravel, 



398 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

clay is also found of an unknown depth, abounding urith rolled 
blocks. The head of a Deer or Stag, was found in the brick 
6eld to the north of the town near the riven In the lower part 
of the parish, as throughout the Carse of Stirling, of which it forms 
a part, the soil is entirely alluvial ; and is believed to rest on the 
coal-fonnation. In the higher parts the soil is p^velly. The 
plants most frequently and peculiarly attached to the soil are furze 
and broom ; in the King's Park, the latter only. An attempt was 
lately made to 6nd coal immediately under the high ground con- 
tiguous to the Castle-hill to the north ; but none was obtained worth 
working, at a depth of upwards of 70 fathoms. • 

Zoology and Botany, — The rarer animals found in the parish 
are the polecat, the otter, the black-snake, and the adder. 
The wolf and the red-deer formerly existed in the district; 
but have been long extinct. The cattle, sheep, horses, &c« bred 
in the parish are not distinguished in any way from those that are 
reared in the adjoining country. In the river are found salmon, 
grilse, sparlings or smelts, pike, perch, trout, eels, and flounders. 
Of these the three first mentioned are of great importance. Sal- 
mon and grilse furnish a highly prized article of food, and con- 
stitute also a branch of profitable trade^ many being exported. 
They come up the river to spawn in spring, and return to the sea 
in autumn. The sparling makes its appearance for some time in 
spring ; and is, while it remains, a favourite article of food, espe- 
cially with the lower classes. 

The following rare, or otherwise interesting native plants, have 
their habitats on the Castle and Gowland hills, viz. — 

Reseda Luteola Anchusa scmpervircns Convolvulus arvensis 

>>>*^^« lutea Scdum tclephium ^.,^. .^■. sepiuin 

Oxalis acetosella .r,...,.^^ anglicum Echium vulgare 

Viola odorata Geranium lucidum Symphytum officinale 

Chelidonium major ,,,... ^ sanguineum Borago officinalis 

Hyoscyamus niger Sherardia arvensis Scrophularia vernalis 

Vcrb^ura Lychnitis Conium maculatum Parietaria officinalis 

Leon urns cardiaca Pyrethrum Parihenlum Stellaria nemorum 

Smyrnicum olusatrum Tanacctum vulgare Gallium cniciatura 

Rosa rubiginosa Carduus Marianua ....w....,...^ saxatile 
Ornithogalum umbellatum Lactuca virosa 

The following are found both on the hilly and lower grounds of 
the King's Park, viz. — 

Solanum dulcamara Primula vulgaris Spiraea ulmaria 

Rosa spinosissima Agrimonia Eupatoria Saxifraga granulata 

Prunus Padus Ranunculus Americanus Caltha palustris 

Hyacintbus non scriptus Pinguecula vulgaris Antbyllis vulneraria 

Menyantbes trifoliata Anagallis arvensis Cardamine pratensis 

Valeriana officinalis Adiantum Capillus Veneris Viola tricolor 

• For this account of the Geology of the parish, 1 am indebted to Alexander 
Blackader Esq., Land-surveyor. 



STiRLINO. 399 

The principal forest trees thrive well either in the rich clayey 
loam or alluvial soil of the lower grounds, or in the lighter soil of 
the higher parts. On the light sandy loam, are growing some 
noble specimens of the Scotch elm ( Ulmus glabra) and beech. 

II. — Civil History. 

There is no ancient or modern account of the history of the pa- 
rish ; nor am I aware, after much inquiry, of any existing in ma- 
Duscript There are two or three histories of Stirling, and ac- 
counts of its scenery, antiquities, and other objects of interest, 
chiefly intended as manuals to visitors. An immense number of 
notices, relating to the history and antiquities of Stirling, lie scat- 
tered in ancient and modern chronicles, and histories of Scotland, 
in Chalmers's Caledonia, Sibbald*s History of Stirlingshire, and 
other works. Nimmo's History of Stirlingshire, edited, with 
many additions and corrections, by Stirling, contains most of 
these notices collected with much indus'try, and no little care and 
discrimination, especially by the learned editor. But it requires 
to be read with caution ; and there are some statements which 
may be corrected by a reference to the works already mentioned 
and to other authorities. 

Stirling and its Castle, — Stirling is situated partly on an emi- 
nence which, as already stated, rising from the south-east, termi- 
nates on the north-west, in the precipitous rock on which the castle 
stands, and partly on the lower ground to the north-east, and 
south-east of this eminence ; the former being the more ancient, 
and the latter the more modern part of the town. Like many 
other places, both in Scotland, and in other countries, it has evident- 
ly owed its existence to that of the adjoining fortress, in whose im- 
mediate neighbourhood the inhabitants had been induced to build 
their dwellings, for the sake of the protection it afforded, in times 
when security could only thus be hoped for. 

It is iiApossible to fix, with any approach to certainty, the 
date of the erection of Stirling Castle. 'J'here are good grounds 
for believing that it is of very ancient origin. Boece affirms that 
Agricola raised fortifications on the rock on which it stands. That 
the Romans had a station here, is almost certain. Their mi- 
litary road from Camelon to the north of Scotland is known to 
have passed, either close under the south-west side of the Castle- 
hill, or, as seems more probable, through the hollow way, which 
passes over the high ground immediately contiguous to it on the 
north, known by the name of the Ballingeich Road. There existed 



400 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

in Sir Robert Sibbald's time, on a rock overhanging this road, op- 
posite to the old gate of the castle, the following inscription : 
<^ IN Bxcu. AGiT. LEG. ii,*^ supposod to intend In ExatUas 
agitantes Legionis Secunda. Boece says, that, in the latter part of 
the ninth century, the Northumbrian princes, Ella and Osbricht, 
having defeated Donald V. and taken him prisoner, followed up 
their victory by marching northward, and subduing all before them 
to the Forth and Stirling ; and, rebuilding the castle, placed in it a 
strong garrison. He adds, that, after it had continued twenty years 
in the possession of the Northumbrian Saxons, it was restored by 
treaty to the Scots. From authentic documents, we learn, that it 
was possessed by its rightful masters in 976 ; when Kenneth IIL 
not only maintained his authority over this part of the conntry, but 
made himself master of the extensive kingdom of Strathcluyd, com- 
prehending almost the whole of the west and south of Scotland. 
In the twelfth century, it had become a stronghold of great impor- 
tance to the nation, as appears from the fact, that, in 1174, 
it was surrendered into the hands of the English by William the 
Lion, as one of the four principal fortresses of the kingdom, in 
fulfilment of the treaty, by which he was delivered from captivity 
in England. By this treaty, also, the English king, Henry IL was 
acknowledged superior of the whole kingdom of Scotland. This 
claim, however, was renounced, and Stirling Castle, with the 
other strongholds restored by Richard I. his successor. The cir- 
cumstances that led to the revival of the claim of lordship over 
Scotland, by Edward I., and to events resulting from it of deep in- 
terest to the nation, and permanent importance to its history, are 
too well-known to require more than an allusion to them here; 
although they produced consequences, in which Stirling and its 
castle were, for a considerable period, more or less deeply involved. 
The Scottish army being, on the 28th of April 1296, defeated in 
an attempt to relieve the castle of Dunbar, the English speedily 
obtained possession of all the principal fortresses of Scotland, Stir- 
ling being of the number. On this occasion, two priests, Thomas 
Chaplain, and Richard Tulle, had the boldness to excommunicate 
Edward before his whole army ; and were seized, and committed 
to Stirling gaol, and afterwards tried and punished. William 
Wallace, however, having been raised up to be the deliverer of 
his country, and having expelled the invaders from a large por- 
tion of it, Stirling returned into the possession of the Scots. Ed- 
ward having, soon after, sent a large army into Scotland, and recon- 



STIRLING. 401 

-quered the south and west, Wallace was recalled from the siege 
of Dundee, by the intelligence that Stirling was again in danger. 
The Scottish army took up its position at or near Corntown, on 
the north side of the Forth ; while the English, posted at Kildean 
on the south, where it was crossed by a narrow bridge, prepared 
to avail theoiselves of this dangerous path to make their assault 
Ere one-half of the English army had crossed, and formed on the 
north bank of the river, Wallace attacked and routed them ; and 
a panic seizing those who were crossing and preparing to cross, 
they fled in utter confusion ; the bridge being destroyed, say some, 
by a stratagem of the Scottish chiefs, according to others, by fire 
applied to the wooden fabric by the fugitive English. Cressing- 
ham, Edward's treasurer, who, in opposition to the better judgment 
of Warenne, the commander-in-chief of the army, had insisted oa 
the attack being made in a manner so rash and unskilful, perished 
with thousands ^iof his followers; and a blow was inflicted on the 
English king, whose immediate result was the temporary loss of 
Scotland, and by which the nation was animated to a series of pa- 
triotic enterprizes and struggles, that eventually issued in the de- 
liverance, and permanent settlement of the indepeiuience, of the 
kingdom. The loss of the conquerors in this memorable engage- 
ment, known in history as the battle of Stirling, and fought on 
the i2th of September 1297, was inponsiderable in point of num- 
bers; but Sir Andrew Murray, the faithful associate of Wallace, 
fell. 

Next year, Edward having entered Scotland at the head of 
80,000 men, and defeated the Scottish army near Falkirk, Wal- 
lace retreated beyond the Forth, burning in the confusion of flight 
the town and castle of Stirling. The castle was repaired by Ed- 
ward, and made by him a place of arms ; but was besieged by the 
Scots the following year, and the English king's affairs in Scotland 
having experienced reverses that discouraged and enfeebled him, 
some time after, by his orders, capitulated. In 1300, after its 
brave garrison, under Sir William Oliphant, had sustained a siege 
of three months, it was recovered by the English ; who were, in 
their turn, three years aferwards, compelled to surrender it, when 
it was again entrusted to its former governor. Early in 1304, 
Edward, who had passed into the north by another route, ap- 
proached Stirling ; and, in spite of a feeble attempt by John Co- 
myn, the guardian of the kingdom, to dispute his passage, crossed 

STIRLING. CC 



402 STIRLINGSHIRB. 

the Forth near Kildcan, in the immediate vicinity of the scene 
of the conflict, which, seven years before, had proved so disas- 
trous to his forces. He was, however, baffled in his design on 
the castle, which, notwithstanding the defection and treason of 
Comyn, boldly held out. But, being deternnined to obtain posses* 
sion of a place so important to his interest, he laid siege to it with 
all the force he could employ ; with all the resources he could 
command, even to the despoiling of the church of the lead that 
covered it ; and with such ardour as ofken to expose his own per- 
son in the assault; but with a spirit withal so unbecoming a brave 
monarch, who ought to have honoured, if not the indomitable pa- 
triotism of a resolute defender of his country, at least the fidelity 
and courage of a magnanimous foe, that, when, after the most in- 
defatigable eflbrts, met with the most obstinate resistance, he at 
length succeeded in conquering all opposition, he refused a capi- 
tulation to the garrison, and sent Oliphant to the Tower of Lon- 
don. The castle remained, after this, in the hands of the English 
for ten years. Early in 1314 it was invested by Edward Bruce, 
the gallant brother of the renowned King Robert, who prosecut- 
ed the siege for some months, until Philip Mowbray, who held it 
for the second Edward of England, agreed to surrender, should 
he not be relieved on or before the 24th of June. 

Robert, who had been crowned in 1306, and with various suc- 
cess had been nobly asserting the independence of Scotland, al- 
though much dissatisfied with such a covenant, had nevertheless 
given his sanction to the truce. Meanwhile the greatest host 
which had ever entered th^ country, having been marched north- 
ward by Edward II., for the relief of the contested fortress, ar- 
rived in the immediate neighbourhood of Stirling, where it was met 
and intercepted by Bruce at the head of his small, but brave, band 
of patriots. On the 23d of June, a fine body of 800 English caval- 
ry was pushed forward, but in a circuitous direction, so as to pass 
round the flank of the Scottish army, to attack and dislodge the 
besiegers. Bending eastward by the low grounds on the edge of 
the carse, they succeeded in eluding observation until they had 
actually passed the left flank of the Scots, — when, being discover- 
ed, they were pursued by Randolph, Earl of Moray, with 500 
horse, who intercepted their attack, and, assailing them on the 
ground now occupied partly by the modern suburb of Stirling, 
called Southfield, and the villas of South Lodge and Randolph, 
Fold in the parish of Stirling, and partly by the northern end of 

<5 



STIRLING. 403 

the village of Newhouse, to that of St Ninians, inflicted upon themi 
with the loss, it is said, of only one man, a complete defeat, with 
great slaughter. From this decisive conflict, which had a power- 
ful influence in leading to the great result of the general action of 
the following day, the ground, which formed probably the cen- 
tre of the struggle, obtained the name of Randolph Field ; and two 
stones, one of which still remains within the wall separating it from 
the public road, and near the gate of the avenue leading to the 
mansion-house, were erected in its commemoration. The famous 
battle of Bannockburn, which decided the long depending contest 
for the claim of the English monarchs to the sovereignty of Scot- 
land, and finally established the independence of the kingdom, 
but whose details do not belong to our subject, its scene lying 
within the parish of St Ninians, of necessity produced the imme- 
diate evacuation of Stirling and its castle by the English gover. 
nor ; who entered into the service of the Scottish king, while the 
garrison, agreeably to the terms of the previous agreement, were 
suffered to pass unmolested into England. 

From this period, no event of national importance took place 
4iere till the reign of James I. On the 24th and 25th of May 
1425, Murdoch, Duke of Albany, who had been regent of the 
kingdom during the captivity of this prince in England, Duncan, 
the aged Earl of Lennox, his father-in-law, and Walter and Alex- 
ander, his sons, were beheaded on a small mount in the neigh- 
bourhood of the castle. This eminence forms part of the Gow- 
land hill, lying to the north of, and separated from, the castle by 
the hollow way already mentioned, called the Ballengeich road ; 
and is the most northern extremity of the hill, looking down upon 
the plain below. It is surrounded by a kind of parapet, and has 
on it the remains of artificial works ; from which appearances, com- 
bined with its name, the Mote Hill, it seems to have been at a 
very early period the place where councils of the chiefs were held, 
and justice was administered. It is also known by the name of the 
Hurly-Haakyj probably from its being the scene of a childish 
sport, known to have been practised at a later time. These exe- 
cutions took place by authority of a parliament held in the castle, 
in which James presided, and by the verdict of a jury of twenty- 
one members formed out of that body. This severe measure, if 
demanded by considerations of state necessity, which it is some- 
what diflBcult to collect from the researches of the historian, but 
which were probably connected with the overgrown power of a fa- 



404 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Diily whose intlucncc endangered the security of the throne, ap« 
pears at any rate to have been dictated more by policy than by 
justice. Here also, in 1437, took place the more righteous exe- 
cution of Sir Robert Graham and several ofhis associates, for the 
assassination of this able and accomplished, but ill-fated prince^ 
in the convent of Black Friars at Perth. In the castle itself, io 
1451, James XL, assisted by Sir Patrick Gray, captain of his guard, 
and in the presence of a few members of his council, perpe- 
trated the murder of the Earl of Douglas ; an act, which, however 
he might esteem it necessary for his own protection against the 
enormous power and perhaps dangerous designs of that baron and 
his retainers, has justly 6xed an indelible stain upon his memory. 
This took place in a small room, or rather closet, known by tbe'name 
of the Douglas /Zoom, in the north-west corner of the building, where 
were then the royal apartments, and which is now the residence 
of the governor. The third James, who was distinguished by 
peaceful tastes, and literary and other accomplishments, in advance 
of the barbarous and turbulent age in which he reigned, resided 
frequently in the castle. Besides repairing and embellishing such 
parts of this favourite residence as had gone into decay, he erected 
in it several new and handsome structures. One of these was the 
Parliament House, containing a fine hall, 120 feet in length, and 
other suitable accommodations, which was a noble and magnifi- 
cent fabric, but which is now occupied by mess-brooms and other 
apartments for the garrison, and although in good preservation, 
is much deteriorated, both in its external and internal appearance. 
Another was the Chapel royal ; which, however, James VI. de- 
molished, erecting on its site the present building ; part of which is 
now occupied by the armoury, the remainder, after many years' dis- 
use in this character, having been within these few weeks restored 
to its sacred purpose as a chapel for the staff and garrison. The 
Palace, now converted into barracks for the soldiers, was begun by 
James V., and finished by Mary. It is all in hewn stone, in a 
singular style of architecture, neither Grecian nor Gothic ; em- 
blematical figures standing on wreathed balustrade pillars on pe- 
destals supported by grotesque figures, under something like Gothic 
arches, and in pediments of the windows. Two of these are 
said to be figures of James and his daughter. Some of them 
have been removed. The form of the building is square, with a 
court in the middle, where the King's lions are said to have been 
kept, still known by the name of the Lions' Den. It contained 



STIRLING. 405 

many large and elegant apartments ; one of which was a hall co- 
vered with an oaken roof of exquisite workmanship, ornamented 
with a great number of carvings of heads, which, in 1777, when Nim- 
mo wrote, were not much decayed, but which have now, for several 
years, been removed, and lie scattered in various hands. Master- 
ly etchings of them were, some time since, executed by Mr Lizars 
of Edinburgh, and published there under the title oi Lacunar Stri^ 
vilinense, to which I refer the antiquary.* 

The Scottish kings often held their court and parliament in the 
castle. But it did not become one of the stated royal residences 
till the fiimily of Stewart had mounted the throne. The second 
and fifth Jameses were born in it. Here James V. was crowned ; 
as was Mary also, when scarce nine months old. James VI. was 
conveyed hither from Edinburgh soon after his birth ; and, on the 
15th of December 1566, when nearly six months old, baptized 
with great pomp, in the presence of many of the nobilily and 
gentry, and of ambassadors from England, France, and Savoy ; 
Elizabeth sending as a gift a font of gold, weighing a couple of 
'stones, which was used on the occasion. After Marj 's resignation 
of the throne in 1567, the nobility, gentry, and burghers of the 
kingdom met at Stirling on the 2dd of July, and, having walked 
in procession to the Town Church, after sermon by John Knox 
there, with the usual ceremonies, set the crown on the head of 
James, then about thirteen months old. The infant king was con- 
veyed back to the castle in the arms of the Earl of Mar. The 
castle continued to be the residence of this prince during his mi- 
nority. His education was conducted by George Buchanan and 
three other preceptors. The apartment occupied by the royal pu- 
pil and his celebrated instructor as a school-room, is on the south- 
eastern side of the palace, and is approached by a stone stair on 
the outside of the building, and without the gate leading into the 
inner court of the castle. Associated as it is with a circumstance 
of so much national interest, good taste might suggest its being 
kept in a state in which, when visited by strangers, it would ap- 
pear more worthy of its history. In Stirling Castle, James held, 
in 1578, his first parliament, after taking into his own hands the 
reins of government. And here the infant prince, Henry, born to 
him of his queen, Anne of Denmark, on the 19th of February 
1594, was baptized on the 30th of August following, with still 

* • There is a copy in Stirling library. 



406 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

greater magnificence and show than had distinguished his own bap- 
tisiDi and with a variety of childish but very costly pageants, that 
threw into the shade, both in number and in pomp, the similar ex- 
hibitions, which, in his own infancy, had desecrated the divine or- 
dinance. 

Before leaving the more ancient portion of the hbtory of the 
castle and town of Stirling, which, down to the date we have now 
reached, were in a great measure identified, the latter deriving 
from the former its chief importance, and usually following its for- 
tunes, some places may be noticed, interesting from their asso- 
ciation with the early times, when this intimate connection and de- 
pendence subsisted. There is, immediately under the castle on 
the south-east, but still on the lofty ground of the castle-hill, a 
level inclosure of about an acre in extent, called the Valley, whei^ 
jousts and tournaments and other sports and feats of chivalry used 
to be exhibited for the entertainment of the royal fisimily and court. 
Immediately adjoining is a small rocky eminence on the very edge 
of the hill, and not only commanding a view of the valley, but 
looking down also upon what was the royal gardens close under 
the castle-hill to the south, and a little iarther off upon the slightly 
elevated table-land of the King's Park, and gently rising emi* 
nences by which it is girdled in from the fertile and magnificent 
plain beyond. From this spot, which is called the Ladies' Hill, 
the ladies of the place enjoyed a bird's-eye view of the sports en- 
gaged in by the court in the gardens, and might witness also the 
occasional military arrays and encampments, and other spectacles 
in the King's Park, which the royal residence and the natural im- 
portance of Stirling Castle must have produced, and which, we 
have reason to believe, did actually grace the scene. Within the 
space formerly occupied by the royal gardens, is a very remarkable 
piece of antiquity, known by the name of the King's Knot, con- 
sisting of a central mound in the form of a table, surrounded at 
the distance of a few feet by another in the form of a bench, of 
nearly equal height, and again at a greater distance by a kind of 
low esplanade, and this once more by what appear to have been 
canals or ditches. Here was the scene of various sports, one of 
which, frequently practised, was that called the Knights of the 
Round Table. From the authority of authentic historians and 
the best antiquaries,* this singular structure is known to be of very 

See William of Worcester, Itinerary, p. 311 ; Barbour in his oc^count of the 
Battle of Baniiockburn: Gough*s caition of Camden. Vol. iii , and Caledonia, VoL L 
pp. 244, 245. 



STIRLING. 407 

great antiquity; and is to be traced up to a period when admira* 
tion for the real or imaginary exploits and institutions of the cele- 
brated King Arthur led to the commemoration of him in many 
parts of the island by this and other modes of perpetuating bis 
feme, and when in Scotland, in particular, his name was given to 
ao immense number of objects, natural and artificial, many of which 
in different districts still retain it. 

All the different localities I have mentioned in connection with 
the castle, viz. the Royal Park and gardens, the Ladies' Hill and 
valley, the Ballingeich Road, and the Gowling Hill, as well as a 
few houses in the higher portion of that part of the town of Stir- 
ling called the Castle-hill, make up, with the castle itself, the Con- 
stabulary, the whole of which is comprehended within the parish 
of Stirling, there being no extra-parochial territory in Scotland. 
The castle is under the government of a lieutenant-governor and 
a deputy-governor. In 1360, Sir Robert Erskine of Marr was 
appointed captain or governor by David H., from which time the 
office appears to have continued, with little interruption, heredi- 
tary in the family till the Earl of Marr's forfeiture in 1715. The 
present lieutenant-governor is General Sir Martin Hunter, and 
the deputy-governor, Colonel Sir Archibald Christie, who, since 
his appointment, has resided in the castle. Along with him, a fort- 
major, a store-keeper, who is also acting barrack -master, a barrack- 
sergeant, and a master-gunner, form the resident staff. There is 
a garrison, which consists of the depot of one of the regiments of 
infantry, usually amounting to from 250 to 300 men. For the re- 
ligious instruction of the staff and garrison, with their families, a 
chaplain is provided by Government. Down to 1835, it had been 
the practice, for a considerable time, to give this appointment to 
one of the parochial ministers of Stirling, or even to the minister- 
of a parish at a distance from the place, converting the office into 
little better than a sinecure. A better system is now acted upon. 
The chaplain has no other office to withdraw him from his duties 
in the castle. The present chaplain is the Rev. Robert Watson. 
The rural portion of the Constabulary, which is under the manage- 
ment of the Commissioners for Woods and Forests, is let on lease, 
vrith a servitude, by which the race-course is preserved from being 
turned up by the plough, and with a reservation of 73.3 acres, 
47.8 of which are in the King's Park, and 25.5 in the Gowling 
Hill, whensoever the commissioners may think proper to plant 
them with trees. This would be a great improvement in respect 



408 STIRLINGSHIRE:. 

of orDament to these places, as well as beDeficial to the royad de- 
mesne. 

CoDsideriiig the remote antiquity of the castle, we may con- 
clude with great confidence, that the nucleus of the town would 
be formed at a very early period. Indeed, the existence of the 
burgh at a date antecedent to 1120, and its early importaooe, 
which we shall have occasion afterwards to show, demonstrate tbb. 
The higher portion of the adjoining declivity would be gradually 
covered with bouses ; and at a subsequent period, while the mo- 
narchs frequently resided, and held their courts, in the castle, many 
of the nobility and gentry of the kingdom would be attracted to 
reside in, and would give a rapidly growing importance to, the 
town. The existence of Marr's work, erected in 1570 by the Re- 
gent of that name, and the traditions that prevail on good autho- 
rity respecting one or two very old houses, and the sites of seve- 
ral modern ones, chiefly in or near to Broad Street, illustrate the 
probability of this account of its earlier history. That the resi- 
dence of the kings of the Stewart family, and the occasional 
meetings of parliament, and similar circumstances, conferred upon 
it a distinction, which occasioned a rivalship with Edinburgh for 
metropolitan supremacy, is well established ; and it is said, that 
the title of the latter to be regarded as the capital of the kingdom 
was only settled by the accident of its chief magistrate being able 
to anticipate the provost of Stirling, in taking precedence of all 
the other burghs at some public procession, or festive entertain- 
ment. It does not appear, however, to have been a place of any 
considerable trade ; and its population, down to about the middle 
of the last century, does not seem ever to have exceeded between 
three and four thousand inhabitants. The following notices of 
events of historical importance may be given. 

It was here that the reforming preachers, Paul Methven, 
John Christison, William Harlaw, and John Willock, were sum- 
moned by the Queen Regent to stand their trial before the justi- 
ciary court, on the 10th of May 15o9, for disregarding the procla- 
mation forbidding them to preach what she called heresy, and, 
as she pretended, exciting tumults and seditions among the people. 
This summons having been, after much tergiversation and treachery 
on her part, peremptorily renewed, brought on the crisis, to 
which the affairs of the Reformation in Scotland had been for some 
time evidently tending. The nobles and gentlemen who had era- 
braced the Protestant doctrines mustered in .force for the protec 



STIRLING. 409 

lion of these reformers ; and the people in various places openly 
declared themselves on their side, and threw oflF the yoke of Po- 
pery. Stirling was one of the first towns to follow the example of 
Perth and St Andrews in abolishing the Popish ceremonies ; over- 
throwing the monasteries ; destroying the instruments of idolatry ; 
and setting up the 'Protestant worship. The same year, the Lords 
of the Congregation took possession of Stirling, in order to prevent 
the purpose of the regent to introduce a garrison of French sol* 
diers, with the view of stopping their passage across the Forth. 
On this occ^on, the Abbey of Cambuskenneth, and the convents 
of Black and Grayfriars were demolished by them. In the month 
of August, the reformers here entered into their third bond of 
mutual defence. In 1569, four priests of Dunblane were, by or- 
der of the Regent Murray, chained to the market-cross, where 
they stood for an hour with their vestments, books, and chalices, 
for having said mass contrary to Act of Parliament. On the 1st 
of April 1571, John Hamilton, who had been Archbishop of St 
Andrews, and Primate of the kingdom, and who had been a par- 
ticular friend of Queen Mary, and had officiated at the baptism of 
James, her son, was executed for high treason ; one of the articles 
of charge, viz. that he knew, and was participant, of the murder 
of the liegent Murray, being acknowledged by himself, with ex- 
pressions of deep sorrow. In 1571, a parliament being held in 
the castle by the Earl of Lennox, the king's grandfather, then re- 
gent, the town was surprised at four o'clock in the morning of iho 
4th of September, by the Earl of Huntly and his faction, with 300 
horse and 80 foot soldiers ; the houses and lodgings of the chief 
nobility surrounded, and the regent, with ten other noblemen, 
made prisoners and carried off in triumph. The only one who 
could make resistance was the Earl of Morton, who did not sur- 
render till the house he occupied, which stood at the east end and 
south corner of Broad Street, was set on fire. The enterprise was 
eventually defeated, and the captive noblemen recovered, by the 
Earl of Marr, but not till the regent had been mortally wounded. 
He died in the evening, and was interred in the Chapel Royal. 
Calder and Bell, two of Huntly's party, of whom twenty-six were 
taken prisoners, were executed two days after in Broad Street. 
During Lennox's regency, the Court of Session for some time held 
its sittings here. And the General Assembly of the Church met 
here in August 1571, and in June 1578. In 1584, the Earls of 
Angus and Marr, the Master of Glammis, and others who had been 



410 STIULINGSHIRE. 

concerned in the Raid of Ruthven, took possession of the town 
and castle. Being obliged to flee into England, they remaiDed 
there till next year, when they returned with a larger force, aod 
again took possession of the town. When they were preparing to 
invest the castle, which was not in a state to hold out against theoi, 
James sent commissioners to treat, and the result was their pardon, 
the reversal of their forfeiture, their restoration to the king's con* 
fidence, and their elevation to offices of public trust This expe- 
dition was called the Raid of Stirling. Upon the ferment at 
Edinburgh in 1637, from the introduction of the liturgy, the Privy. 
Council and the Court of Session were, by royal mandate, remof- 
ed to Stirling, and continued for several months. The liturgy 
was proclaimed at the cross. The Earl of Home, with a great 
number of barons, ministers, and burgesses, entered a public protes- 
tation against it ; and in the evening, the town was taken posses* 
sion of by 2000 armed men on the part of the Presbyterians. 
They all left the place, however, on the following day, to join their 
friends in Edinburgh. In 1645, a pestilence having entered Scot- 
land from the south, the parliament removed from Edinbuigh to 
Stirling, but, being followed by this dreadful enemy, retired to 
Perth. It raged here from the middle of July till October. The 
town-council held their meetings in the open field, near to what is 
now called the inclosure. Tents were erected for the sick on 
Sheriff moor lands, north of the bridge. Cleansers were appoint- 
ed for the different quarters of the town, and a spot of ground 
near St Ninian's Well was allotted for the burying of the dead. 

In 1648, when " Duke Hamilton's Engagementy* as it was called, 
had been entered into, the Marquis of Argyle and others raised a 
considerable force, with a view to bring about its renunciation by 
the estates of the kingdom. Argyle occupied Stirling ; but while 
he was at dinner with the Earl of Mar in the Castle, the small 
body of Highlanders he had stationed at different posts, were sur- 
prised ; many of them were cut in pieces, the rest surrounded. 
He himself effected his escape. In 1650, after the defeat of the 
Scottish troops at Dunbar by Cromwell, Stirling became the ren- 
dezvous of the Committees of Church and State, the Magistrates 
of Edinburgh, and the remains of the army. A Parliament, the 
last held in Scotland in which the sovereign personally presided, 
met here, but adjourned to Perth. In consequence of their de- 
liberations, an army was collected at Aberdeen, and thence march- 
ed to Stirling, and afterwards encamped at Torwood. After a varie- 



STIRLING. 411 

ty of manoeuvres, Charles, who commanded in person, was obliged 
to retreat before Cromwell, and encamped at Stirling, in the King's 
Park. Cromwell in bis turn having retreated into England, and 
being followed by the King, defeated him in the memorable bat- 
tle of y^orcesten Soon after Charles's departure from Stirling, 
General Monk, who had been detached by Cromwell with a strong 
body of men, arrived at Stirling ; took possession of the town, and 
proceeded to besiege the castle. He erected batteries on the 
Tower of the Church and on the adjoining burying-ground ; and 
thus succeeded in reducing the fortress. The ornamental parts 
of thepalacej and the church tower, still bear marks of the mutual 
cannonading. It was on this occasion that the national registers, 
which had been lodged in the castle as a place of security the pre- 
ceding year, were seized and removed to the Tower of London ; 
whence being conveyed by sea at the Restoration, they were lost in 
a storm. In 1715, the Duke of Argyle, before proceeding to fight 
the battle of Sheriffmuir in the neighbourhood of Dunblane, en- 
camped here in the King's Park. In 1745, the walls were repair- 
ed) probably with a view to its protection from the Pretender's for- 
ces. On the return of his army, however, from England the fol- 
lowing year, the town being found untenable against him, he was 
admitted on terms which, it is said, were immediately violated by 
bis men ; who pillaged the houses and shops of those who were 
known to be most opposed to them. He invested the castle ; erect- 
ing batteries on the Gowling hill in the space between the church 
and Mar's work, and on the Ladies' hill ; and would have suc- 
ceeded in forcing it to capitulate for want of provisions, had he 
not been compelled by the approach of the Duke of Cumberland 
to retire from the neighbourhood. — One other event may be no- 
ticed as of more than local interest. This was the execution of 
Baird and Hardy for high treason in 1820, after the absurd rising 
which took place under the excitement of Radical agitation, goad- 
ed on by scarcity of work and want of the means of subsistence 
amongst the operatives ; and which terminated in the defeat at 
Bonnymuir. They were beheaded in Broad Street, in front of the 
Townhouse ; and buried in the church-yard. 

Burgh of Stirling. — On an ancient seal of the corporation was 
a wooden bridge ; on one ?ide of which were English soldiers ap- 
pearing to attempt the passage, on the other, Scottish in the atti- 
tude of opposing them ; with the legend " Hie armis Bruti^ Scoti 
stant hie cruce tuti ;" all which seems probably to have been in- 



412 STlRLlNGSIilRR. 

tended to commemorate the successful defence of the bridge at 
Kildean by the Scottish army at the battle of Stirling. But, what- 
ever may have beed indicated by the engraving on this seal, the 
origin of the corporation is of a much earlier date. The most an- 
cient charter of the burgh in existence was granted by Alexan- 
der I., and is dated at Kincardine, August 18» 1 120 ; and even this 
is not a charter of erection, but only confers additional privileges. 
At what period the erection took place cannot now be ascertained. 
Stirling is the fourth burgh in the historical order in which such 
corporations appear in Scottish annals ; those which precede it 
being Edinburgh, Berwick, and Roxburgh. Along with these, it 
was one of " the Court of the Four Burghs^** a kind of Commer- 
cial Parliament, instituted, it would seem, by David L, and invested 
with great powers in all matters of trade ; which was by James 
III. changed into " the Convention of Royal Burghs^ This court 
appears to have had its meeting in Stirling as early as 1405. In 
1454, it was transferred to Edinburgh. The register of sasinesof 
th^ burgh commences in 1473; the Council Records in 1597. 
In 1773, by a decision of the Court of Session, affirmed by the 
House of Lords, the election of magistrates and councillors, made 
at Michaelmas of that year, was, owing to some corrupt influence 
employed, declared null and void ; and the privileges of the town as 
a corporate body, were for a season annihilated. In 1 781, on a 
petition of the inhabitants, they were restored by the Crown with 
some alterations in the set or constitution of the burgh. This new 
set continued, until superseded by the Municipal Reform Act of 
the '28th of August 1833, according to which the owners or occu- 
piers of houses of the value of L. 10 annually, elect the council- 
lors, in number 21 ; the councillors elect from among themselves a 
provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, and a treasurer. One-third 
of the councillors retire annually, according to a prescribed order; 
the provost and treasurer being, however, excepted, who remain 
in office three years. The election of councillors takes place on 
the first Tuesday of November ; that of the magistrates, &c. on 
the Thursday following. The town-clerk cannot be a member of 
the council. By an Act of Parliament in 1437, various burghs 
were appointed to keep the standard measures for liquid and dry 
goods, from which all others throughout the kingdom were to be 
taken. To Edinburgh was committed the ell ; to Perth the reel ; 
to Lanark the pound; to Linlithgow the firlot ; and to Stirling, 
being at that time the principal market for distilled and fermented 



STIRLINO. 413 

liquors, the pint. The Stirling Jug, as this pint measure is called, 
is kept with great care in the council-house in Broad Street, where 
the magistrates and councillors hold their meetings. This Jug 
was for a time amissing ; and after a very curious and sagacious 
search by the Rev. Alexander Bryce, minister of Kirknewton, was 
discovered in a tradesman's shop in the town. It is made of a kind 
of brass or yeitlin, in the shape of a hollow cone truncated, and 
weighs nearly 15 lbs. Scottish Troy. The magistrates have, to a 
certain extent, a civil and criminal jurisdiction. For the govern- 
ment of the town, it is divided into four districts or wards, over 
each of which a bailie presides. They have four officials called 
town-sergeants for preserving the public peace ; in which they are 
more effectively assisted by a regularly organized body of high 
constables. The officer at the head of the county police has his 
station here. The revenue of the burgh is derived from the cus* 
toms at the Bridge and Port, the markets, the shore, and the 6sh- 
eries ; and averages about L. 2300 per annum. The custodier of 
this revenue is the Chamberlain, generally a respectable legal 
practitioner in the place, who is really the Treasurer, the other 
being so only in name. The charges upon this fund are ministers' 
stipends ; salaries to schoolmasters ; lighting the streets ; supply- 
ing water ; repairing and renewing the streets ; and keeping up the 
jail, supplying necessaries to the inmates, and paying the salary of 
the jailor. In this last item, the county of Clackmannan aids to a 
trifling amount ; the county of Stirling not at all. The Town« 
bouse in Broad Street is the property of the burgh ; a large and 
handsome building, with a lofty and beautiful steeple, containing 
a clock, a fine deep-toned bell, and musical bells, which play a 
tune immediately before the striking of each hour. In this build* 
ing the council hold their meetings ; as also the sheriff, the coun- 
ty gentlemen, and the Lords of Justiciary in their circuit, their 
respective courts. 

Modem Improvements and present condition of the Town. — From 
various circumstances there is reason to believe, that Stirling had 
been nearly stationary in extent, ix)pulation, and general condition, 
from about the time of the Reformation down to nearly the middle 
of the last century. To the castle it bad been indebted for its birth, 
and to the Court, for the magnitude and importance to which 
it had attained ; and when the latter was withdrawn, and the for- 
mer ceased to exercise anv influence upon its fortunes, the impulse 



414 ST1RLINQ8HIRE. 

given by the Reformation, followed by the gradually increasing 
peace and civilization of the country, and industry of the people, 
while they contributed to the progress and enlargement of other 
towns, served in a great measure to counteract, in the case of Stir- 
ling, what must have been otherwise felt to be a heavy loss. These 
counteracting influences, however, while they prevented any con- 
siderable decay, were insufficient to effect any improvement, in m 
far as size and general appearance were concerned. But when the 
influence of the union of the kingdoms began to be developed, 
which was not, at least in this part of the country, until afker the 
suppression of the two rebellions in favour of the Stewart familyi 
and abolition of the hereditary jurisdictions belonging to the feu- 
dal barons, Stirling again started forward in a course of improfe- 
ment, which has never been arrested, but, on the contrary, appean 
to be becoming more and more distinguished, and to keep pace 
with the general progress of the country. Since that time, it has 
been greatly extended ; and a rapid advance has been made in 
many particulars, which mark the growing prosperity and comfort 
of the community. During this interval, the population has more 
than doubled. New and handsome streets have been built. Old 
bouses have been replaced by new, in many instances ; in others, 
have been modernized and beautified. Many excellent dwelling- 
houses and splendid shops, and elegant suburban villas, give ao 
air of wealth and comfort ; the streets have been lighted with gas 
of first-rate quality; nnd the municipal rulers have, within the last 
seven years, by improving the streets, immensely added to the 
beauty of the town, and to the safety and accommodation of the 
inhabitants, and rendered it greatly more attractive to the nume- 
rous strangers who visit it for business, health, or amusement. 
One of the most pleasing and beautiful ornaments of the town, 
however, not only contributing to its embellishment, but providing 
for the healthful recreation of the inhabitants, and enabling tliem 
to contemplate the enchanting prospects by which it is surrounded, 
the " Back Walk," is of older date, although belonging to the 
modern history of the place. It was begun in 1723 by Mr Ed- 
monstone of Cambus- Wallace, and from time to time extended, 
until completed, towards the end of the last century. Commencing 
in the south-east part of the town on the outside of the hill, it 
gradually rises through a grove of tall and luxuriant trees, and then 
by the naked and rocky edge of the hill, till it attains near to its 
summit under the castle, and proceeding to skirt the lofty emi- 



STIRLING* 415 

nence, terminates on the Mote hill or Hurly-Haaky. From its 
gradually increasing elevation, the magnificent landscape by degrees 
discloses itself to the eye, and is beheld to very great advantage. 
There is only one point from which it can be seen to greater; 
that is in the governor's garden, on the north-western verge of the 
castle grounds,, where the whole may be viewed as one glorious 
panorama. 

Stirling is the county town of Stirlingshire. The sheriff-sub- 
stitute for the western district resides here ; and, as well as the 
sheriff of the county, holds courts for civil and criminal causes. 
The circuit court of justiciary holds its meetings here in April and 
September for the counties of Stirling, Clackmannan, and Kinross. 
It is the seat of a presbytery, and, along with Perth, is also the 
alternate place of meeting of the synod of Perth and Stirling, 
which convenes here ou the third Tuesday of April, and at Perth 
on the third Tuesday of October. 

There are no maps, plans, or surveys of the parish. Plans of 
the town have been made for various purposes, but throw very 
little light on its ancient history. There are no letters, papers, 
pictures, or other documents, so far as I have been able to disco- 
ver, in the possession of any resident individual, tending to illus- 
trate the biography, history, or antiquities of the parish, with the 
esception of one ancient painting, and three engravings probably 
of the reign of William IIL, in the possession of J. Lucas, Esq. 

Eminent Persons connected with the Parish by birth or otherwise, 
— Of these the most remarkable was the celebrated George Bu« 
chanan, one of the best classical scholars in modem times ; as his 
History of Scotland, whatever may be the weight which it is entitled 
to as an authority, his translation or rather paraphrases of the 
Psalms, and several other poetical works, all of which are composed 
in Latin, distinguished for purity and elegance, abundantly demon- 
strate. He was the third son of Thomas Buchanan of Moss, on 
the western bank of the Blane in Stirlingshire, where he was born 
near the beginning of February 1506. His father died early, leav- 
ing his wife and eighl»children in indigence. He was enabled, 
however, by the assistance of a maternal uncle, to go to study at 
Paris about 1520, He afterwards served in an expedition against 
England. At eighteen, he went to the University of St Andrews. 
Returning to France he studied at the Scots College, where in 
1528 he obtained the degree of Master of Arts. About this time, 
he embraced the doctrines of Luther ; notwithstanding of which, 



4!6 ST1RLIN08HIRE. 

he obtained a professorship in the College of St 6arbe» where he 
taught grammar for three years. Returning to Scotland in 15d7| 
he made to himself enemies of the Popish party by some of bis 
writings ; and, although for some time patronized by James Y., 
was at length exposed to their resentment, and wasonly saTed 
from destruction by escaping from a window in the Castle of St 
Andrews. He was Professor of Latin at Bourdeaux for three 
years ; and a regent in a college at Paris for about the same time. 
He became afterwards a professor in a newly founded college at 
Coimbra in Portugal, where he was persecuted by the monks. He 
again obtained a regency in a college in France, where be was 
highly honoured, and remained for several years. In 1562, he 
had returned to Scotland ; and next year, during the month of 
April, he read with Queen Mary, then in her twentieth year, a 
portion of Livy every afternoon. In 1564, she conferred upon him 
the temporalities of the Abbey of Crossraguel ; and two years after, 
he was appointed, by the Regent Murray, Principal of St Leonard's 
College in the University of St Andrews. He lectured on Theo- 
logy ; was repeatedly a member of the General Assembly ; and, 
in 1567, although not a minister, yet, in his character as a Pro- 
fessor of Divinity, at a period when the imposition of hands bad 
not been introduced into the Reformed Church of Scotland, was 
moderator of that court. Being, about 1571, called to superin* 
tend the education of James VI., he resigned his principality at 
St Andrews, and came to live in Stirling. He resided in a house 
in the Castle- Wynd, on the left hand proceeding up the street, 
which he is said to have erected. This house, interesting both 
from its association with the name of this illustrious Scotsman, 
and from its ancient form, which imparted a sombre dignity to the 
narrow street, and harmonized beautifully, when seen in a particu- 
lar direction, with the majesty of the large and lofty cathedral- 
looking church beyond, was a venerable relic of antiquity. It was 
taken down only six years ago. Besides being commendatory 
abbot of Crossraguel and principal preceptor to the King, Bu- 
chanan was lord-keeper of the privy-seal, and, ex officio^ a Member 
of Parliament. He died at Edinburgh on the 28th of September 
1582, in his 77lh year, and was interred there in the Grayfriar's 
Church-yard. 

The most eminent individual, as a statesman and warrior, was 
John Erskine, sixth Earl of Mar of the name of Erskine. He 
was appointed by James V. Commendator of Cambuskenneth and 



STIRLING. 417 

Inchmahbme ; and invested by Mary with the hereditary prefec- 
ture or captainship of Stirling Castle ; which latter oiBce, however, 
bad been from 1360 chiefly in the family. His name and seal ap- 
pear at the deed of Mary's resignation of the kingdom. On that 
event, he was entrusted with the keeping of the young Prince. 
On the 5th of September 1571, when the Earl of Lennox had 
been slain by Mary's faction, the defeat of whose enterprize was 
chiefly owing to his gallantry in hastening from the castle to assail 
their retainers, he was proclaimed Regent of the kingdom. After 
discharging this high and arduous office in troublous times for a 
year, he died, still a young man, in 1572. His son, and successor 
in his titles, and in the office of governor of the castle, had been 
a fellow pupil of James, under the tuition of George Buchanan ; 
and was entrusted by him with the education of Prince Henry. 
The building at the upper end of Broad Street, known by the 
name of Marr's Work, which has long been a ruin, but which still 
retains traces of elaborate and costly architecture, and, when entire, 
must have been a magniflcent edifice, was erected by this distin- 
guished person. I'here are still to be traced upon it some quaint 
inscriptions. Here he resided with great splendour, during the 
brief period of his occupancy. The date 1570 probably deter-* 
mines the time of its completion. This was the year preceding 
his appointment to the regency ; and only two years before his 
death. The stones in great part were taken from Cambuskenneth 
Abbey. While this palatial residence was in the possession of 
Annabella, the Regent's widow, it was occupied for a time in 1593 
by James and his Queen, until their own palace in the castle was 
made ready for their reception. 

No individual connected with Stirling is better entitled to a 
memorial in its parochial statistics, than the Rev. James Guthrie. 
This noble martyr for Christ's crown and cause was the son of Guth- 
rie of Guthrie in Forfarshire ; and was educated at the University 
of St Andrews, in which he afterwards for some time taught philo* 
sophy ; and where he gave abundant proof, that he was an exact 
scholar and excellent philosopher; and so highly distinguished him- 
self, " that," says an Episcopalian writer of the day, " if he had 
continued fixed to his first principles," which were antipres- 
byterian, " he would have been a star of the first magnitude." 
While at St Andrews, by conversation with Samuel Rutherford 
and others, and by a careful study of the subject, he was led to 
embrace those principles, which he maintained to the end. He 

STIRLING. D d 



418 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

was, for some time, minister of Lauder in Berwickshire ; from which 
he was translated to Stirling in 1648. In 1650, he preached 
against certain resolutions of the Commission of the General As- 
sembly, as involving the church and nation in an approval of those, 
who were disaffected to the solemnly approved and ratified ecde* 
siastical establishment In February 1651, be was summoned by 
the chancellor to appear at Perth, and answer before the King and 
Committee of Estates, for the doctrine he had preached, and for a 
letter he had written to the Commission of Assemblv, remonstrat- 
ing with them on the same subject. On the 22d of that month 
he appeared, and gave in a protestation against the authority of the 
king and his Estates, to take trial of his doctrine, and to be his 
judges, as to matters for which he was answerable to the ecclesi- 
astical courts only ; while he submitted himself to their jurisdictioD 
in all matters of a civil nature. He was kept in prison at Perth, till 
the 28th of the same month ; when he again appeared before the 
King and the Committee of Estates, and gave in a similar protes- 
tation. At that time he was dismissed, and the matter was no 
jarther proceeded with. But, ten years afterwards, when Charles 
had been restored, and the determination was adopted to crush the 
Presbyterian Church, and assert the royal supremacy in all causes, 
spiritual as well as civil, upon the same grounds, as well as for be- 
ing, as alleged, the author of a publication entitled ** The Causes 
of GocCs fVrathy*' he was seized and imprisoned, and brought to 
trial before the Parliament in Edinburgh. He defended himself 
with such eloquence, knowledge of law, and strength of argument, 
as utterly amazed his friends, and confounded his enemies. But 
he had been the leader of the protestors ; his death might strike 
terror into that party, and induce them to yield ; and he had 
pronounced sentence of excommunication, many years before, 
against the Earl of Middleton, the chancellor, for which that vin- 
dictive nobleman sought to be revenged. He was therefore found 
guilty of high treason ; condemned to suffer death ; and hanged 
on the 1st of June 1661, at the cross of Edinburgh. In pursu- 
ance of his sentence, his head having been separated from his 
body, was fixed up on the Nether- Bow Port. After it had 
remained thus a public spectacle for about twenty-seven years, 
Mr Alexander Hamilton, then a youth at the College of Edin- 
burgh, took it down at the peril of his life. Thirty-eight years 
afterwards, this same Mr Alexander Hamilton succeeded him in 
the ministry at Stirling; where he proclaimed the gospel from the 



. STIRLING. 419 

same pulpit for twelve years, his decease taking place in January 

173a 

The Rev. Henry Guthrie^ author of Memoirs of Scottish Affairs, 
from 1627 to the.death of Charles L in 1649, was minister of Stir- 
ling about the period to which his work relates. Being thrust out 
from his charge by the Commission of the General Assembly, for 
malignancy, he resided for a considerable time*at Kilspindie, where 
he probably prepared his memoirs. It appears from the Council 
records, that upon the vacancy occasioned by the arrest and exe- 
cution of Mr James Guthrie, his successor, he received Repeated 
invitations from the patrons* to return to his ministry in Stirling, 
but declined them on the plea of ill health. Having conformed 
to Prelacy, he became afterwards Bishop of Dunkeld. 

A native of Stirling, of the name of Edmond, the son of a ba« 
ker, born, it ^ould appear, towards the end of the sixteenth cen- 
tury, having run away from his parents, and enlisted in the service 
of Maurice, Prince of Orange, so greatly distinguished himself as 
to rise to the rank of Colonel. Having acquired considerable 
wealth, he returned to reside in, and distinguished himself as a be- 
nefactor to, the place of his birth. A plate, in addition to that which 
received the usual weekly collections for the poor, was for some 
time placed at the church door, that such as were able, and willing, 
might put into it their contributions towards the erection of a manse 
for the minister. A donation was given by Colonel Edmond so 
munificent, that it appears to have been equal to, if not greater 
than, all the rest of the amount obtained by this collection. The 
manse thus built, stood at the junclion of Church Street and St 
John's Street, not many yards from the south-east comer of the 
church; the site being still plainly indicated by the state of the 
ground. It was taken down in 1824, and contained till that time 
some books, of which Mr Guthrie had been the custodier, and his 
chair; both of which had been carefully preserved by his successors in 
the first charge. The chair is now in the library room of the School 
of Arts. ' The following anecdote is related of Colonel Edmond. 
When on the Continent, being on the parade with several brother 
officers, he was accosted by a stranger, who professed to have newly 
come from Scotland, and left the Coloners relations well, enume- 
rating several of high rank. Edmond, turning from him indig- 

* This, however, tliey did with great reluctance. It was not their own wish they 
were expressing ; but tliat of the then ruling powers, using influence with them, to 
which they found themselves constrained to yield. 



420 6T1BUN08UIBE. 

nantly, informed the circle, that, howerer this unknown person 
might flatter his vanity, he must in candour tell them, that he had 
the honour, of which he should ever be proud, to be the son of 
an honest baker and freeman of the ancient burgh of Stirling. He 
then ordered the abashed impostor out of his sight He would not 
visit in Stirling, unless his fether and mother were invited. The Earl 
of Marr, son to the Regent, and himself Lord High Treasurer of 
the Kingdom, asked him to dine or sup. Edmond agreed on the 
fore-mentioned condition ; and, thus happily escorted by the aged 
pair, did the gallant Colonel wait upon his illustrious entertamer. 
The excellent Christian soldier. Lieutenant- Colonel John 
Blackadder, son of a faithful minister, who, during the time of 
persecution, after the restoration of Charles H., suffered long for 
his adherence to Presbytery, and endured a distressing imprison- 
ment on the Bass Rock, falls here to be mentioned. He was not 
more distinguished for his personal bravery and military accom- 
plishments, than for his private worth and devoted piety. After 
serving many years on the continent, under the Duke of Marlbo- 
rough, in command of the celebrated Cameronian Regiment of 
Infantry, he was appointed Deputy-Governorof the castle, where 
he closed his life in August 1729, at the age of 65. 

Tlie Rev. Ebenezer Erskine, whose name is associated with a 
deeply interesting event in the history of Scotland, the rise of the 
Secession from the Established Church, somewhat more than a 
century ago, was for several years minister of the third charge of 
Stirling. His grandfather, Ralph Erskine, descended from the 
family of Marr, bad thirty-three children ; of whom Henry, Eben- 
ezer's father, was the youngest, and was born at Dryburgh on 
the Tweed, in the parish of Merton, in Berwickshire. Henry 
Erskine was one of the most eminently pious and deeply expe- 
rienced ministers of his day ; and passed through a long course of 
remarkable vicissitudes and heavy trials, which render his bio- 
graphy highly instructive, as well as full of extraordinary in- 
terest. He was minister at Comhill in North Durham ; whence 
he was ejected in 1662. After various changes of place and cir- 
cumstances, he became, under King James's toleration, on the 
call of a number of Presbyterians at or near Whitsome, a few 
miles from Dunse, in his native county, pastor of a congregation, 
which assembled at Rivelaw, in that parish ; where he continued 
till the Revolution, when he became minister of Chirnside, in the 
same district Here he died in 1696, aged 72. His second son, 



STIRLING. 42l 

Ebenezer, was born June 22, 1680, and most probably at Dryburgh. 
He was educated at the University of Edinburgh ; became diaplaio 
to the EsltI of Rothes ; was licensed as a probationer for the mi- 
nistry, February 11, 1703; and ordained minister of Portmoak, 
within the bounds of that Presbytery, on . the 22d of September 
following. His fidelity, and other ministerial gifts, recommended 
him 80 powerfully wherever he became known, and he acquired 
so much distinction by his zeal and firmness in advocating the an- 
cient principles of the Church of Scotland, that he was solicited 
by many vacant parishes in succession, to become their minister. 
He at length accepted an invitation from the town and parish of 
Stirling, and was admitted minister of the third charge, which ap- 
pears to have been erected for the purpose, on the 6th of September 
1731. Soon after his settlement here, those proceedings of the 
General Assembly, relative to the settlement of parishes, in the 
case of the right of presentation falling into the hands of the 
Presbytery, by the patron failing to present to the benefice within 
six months from the vacancy, took place ; and that course of keen 
discussion, and determined opposition and remonstrance on the 
part of some ministers, commenced ; which resulted in the setting- 
up of a separate ecclesiastical court, and the formation of a body 
of church-members in connection with it, under the name of Se- 
ceders, which, from a combination of causes, has greatly extended 
itself, and has for many years comprehended a considerable pro- 
portion of the church-going population of the country, and sent 
forth branches into almost every part of the globe, where natives 
of Scotland, or their descendants, are found. Mr Erskine took a 
very active part in these discussions, and this opposition to the mea- 
sures of the ruling party in the Church. He was one of the most 
influential and determined in the steps they took in resistance ; 
and one of the four who brought about the separation, and or- 
ganized the Seceding court. He was deposed by the General 
Assembly in 1738; but, a large body of people adhering to him, he 
continued to exercise his ministry with great acceptance, in a place 
of worship, erected for their accommodation, on the south side of 
St John Street. He died on the 2d of June 1754, aged 74; 
and was buried under the centre of his meeting-house. This 
place of worship having been taken down, the present one, which 
is large and handsome, was erected a little farther back, and 
opened in 1826. 

Dr Robert Henry, author of a History of Great Britain, was for 



4*22 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

some time educated at the f^rammar school of Stirling. He was 
born in 1718, in the parish of St Ninians. He became minister 
of a Presbyterian congregation at Carlisle in 1748; was translated 
to a similar congregation at Berwick in 1760; and in 1768 to 
Edinburgh. He was moderator of the General Assembly b 1774; 
and died in 1790. 

Dr David Doig, rector of the grammar-school, who acquired great 
celebrity as a classical scholar, and raised the character of the se- 
minary, over which be presided for forty years, to a height of foine, 
which attracted many families to settle in Stirling, that their chil- 
dren might have the beneBt of his instructions, died here in April 
1800, at the age of 82. 

Dr John Moore, an eminent physician, well known as the au- 
thor of several successful works in various departments of literature 
and father of Sir John Moore, who fell gallantly at Corunna, was 
born 1730. He was the son of the Rev. Charles Moore^ one of the 
ministers of Stirling; he was educated in Glasgow; and there, after 
serving with the army in Flanders, and studying in London and 
Paris, he was settled as partner to an eminent medical practitioner. 
He afterwards visited different parts of the Continent ; and spent 
the latter part of his life in London, where he died in^l802. 

Land-owners. — There being but a small part of the parish land* 
ward, the properties in land are inconsiderable. The Crown, the 
Corporation of Stirling, Cowan's, Allan's, and Spittal's Hospitals; 
Robert Bruce, Esq. of Kennet; Mrs Burd of Forthside^ Mrs Smith 
of Randolphfield ; and William Turnbull, Esq. of Forthbank; 
own nearly the whole land in the parish. 

Parochial Registers. — The whole number of volumes is twenty- 
four; of which eight are session-records, and sixteen registers 
of proclamations, baptisms, &c. &c. The date of the earliest en- 
try in the session records, is November 7, 1597. The earliest 
volume of the register of proclamations, [baptisms, and marriages 
commences in 1585. The register of burials begins in 1727. Of 
the above-mentioned volumes, three of session records, embracing 
the period from November 7, 1597, to December 3, 1649, and 
one of proclamations, &c. from 1585 to 1594, are in the Register 
House in Edinburgh. How they came to be there, no one can tell. 
It is said they had been in the possession of a shopkeeper in that 
city. Whether they can be recovered by the kirk-session has not 
yet been ascertained. 

The presbytery of Stirling's records commence with the erection 



STIRLINa. 4-23 

of the presbytery, August 8, 1581 ; and those of the synod of 
Perth and Stirling, in 16da 

Jncieni Buildings and other Antiquities. — Several of these have 
been already more or less particularly indicated. The following 
may be noticed in addition. On the right hand, proceeding up 
the Castle Wynd, stands a spacious quadrangular edifice, known 
by the name of Argyle House, or Argyle's Lodging, occupied as 
a military hospital for the garrison in the castle. It is of massive 
and handsome architecture, according to the style of the period. 
It was erected in 1682, by Sir William Alexander, created in 1633 
£!arl of Stirling, a person of great and various accomplishments. 
After his death in 1640, it became the property of the family of Ar- 
gyle, who removed the arms of Stirling from some parts of the build- 
ing, and substituted their own. While it continued in this family, it 
was for a short time, in 1680, the residence of James VIL then 
Duke of York ; at whose instance, five years afterwards, the Earl 
of Argyle, his entertainer, was put to death. Here the Duke of 
Argyle, his grandson, resided and held his council of war during 
the Rebellion of 1715. It afterwards passed into the hands of the 
Wrights of Loss, near Menstrie; and from them, to Macgregor of 
Balhaldie. It was sold about 1797 or 1798, by the representa- 
tives of the late Mr Macgregor, to a company of gentlemen resid- 
ing in and about Stirling, who retained it till the beginning of the 
present century ; when it was purchased by the Crown, and con- 
verted to its present useful purpose. It contains many spacious 
apartments well adapted to the use to which they are put. The 
chaplain of the castle is here accommodated with a large and con-» 
venient lodging. The ground intervening between this edifice and 
St Mary's Wynd anciently formed part of the property. — Almost 
immediately contiguous to the south-west corner of the church, 
stands Cowan's Hospital, erected in 1639. The front is ornamented 
with a statue of its founder. It is a handsome house ; and crowns 
suitably with its pinnacles, seen above the neighbouring trees, the 
romantic height it occupies. The lower apartment is the Guild* 
Hall. The upper is used as a school-room. — The venerable 
edifice, under whose roof are the two parochial churches^ is of 
great antiquity, having been erected in 1494. The church of the 
Dominicans or Black Friars had been, for a long period previous 
to this date, the principal place of worship for the people of Stir- 
ling. It stood on the outside of the town ; on ground now occu- 
pied partly by*what is called Spring Garden, and partly by the 



424 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

houses and gardens adjoining to it, bounded by Kinjg- Street and 
Friar's- Wjnd. In the year above-mentioned, James IV. founded 
a convent of Franciscan or Gray Friars, in the upper part of the 
town, and built this church for their accommodation. The eas- 
tern portion was the choir, in which the public service took place^ 
and the western portion the nave, which was left unoccupied, and 
open for other purposes of a devotional and sacred nature* The 
chancel, that is, the circular portion at the east end, in which is a 
large and handsome window, is believed to have been added seve- 
ral years afterwards by Cardinal Beaton, contributing much to the 
improvement of the structure, in respect both of convenience and 
beauty. It was in 1656 divided into two distinct places of worship ; 
both of which are handsome, and much admired by visitors. The 
East Church is very commodious ; and in respect of facility of 
speaking and hearing, a quality of first-rate importance in a place 
of Protestant worship, is remarkable. This quality it owes to a 
large and lofty curvilinear recess at the west end, in which the 
pulpit is placed, constructed, with a view to this effect, under the 
direction of the celebrated Professor Robison of Edinburgli. Whe- 
ther the position of the large and very convenient, but old fashioned 
and rather ungainly-looking pulpit, and the corresponding arrange- 
tnent of the pews, adopted several years since, when an alteration 
in these respects was made, be the best fitted to give effect to the 
internal structure of the church, is another matter. The view is 
certainly seen to most advantage from the pulpit; from which point 
this church, with its lofty roof, its double row of light and elegant 
pillars, and its eastern window, presents one of the chastest and 
most pleasing specimens of the pure Gothic architecture now ex- 
isting in Scotland. The West Church is in some respects less 
comfortable and commodious. The pillars, of which there is here 
also a double row, are inconveniently large ; obstruct in many places 
the sight of the preacher and the sound of his voice ; and give a 
heavy appearance to the place. The ground rises behind in the 
adjoining burial-yard, and renders at least part of the church damp; 
increasing thereby the coldness, which in winter is experienced in 
both churches. The pulpit, however, being light and handsome ; 
there being a west window of stained glass ; and a splendid central 
gaselier ; and the whole interior having received a complete and 
costly repair, when, after being disused for three-quarters of a 
century, it was re-opened in 1817, at an expense which might have 
been more beneficially employed in building a new fabric in an- 

6 



STrttLINO. 425 

other part of the town ^ it presents to a spectator, looking towards 
the pulpit westward, an imposing aspect. There was in the East 
Churchy till it was removed on the introduction of gas, a brazen 
chandelier, said to have been the gift of John Cowan. At the west 
end of the whole building rises a massy tower, 22 feet square, and 
90 feet ' in height In this there are four bells of considerable 
size, and of different depths of tone ; so that they might be rung 
in a regular chime. This has lately been attempted ; but hither- 
to, without the desired success. — A still more ancient building, but 
which has long been a ruin, is the Abbey of Cambuskenneth ; situ- 
ated in the immediate vicinity of the little village named from it, on 
the northern side of the Forth, and in the county of Clackmannan, 
although within the parish of Stirling. The name signifies the 
field of Kenneth ; the adjacent grounds having been, it would seem, 
the scene of some transaction, in which one of the princes of that 
name was concerned. It was founded in 1147 by David 1. ; and 
was endowed by himself, and some of his successors, with many privi« 
leges, and vast possessions in different parts of the kingdom. It was 
often called the Monastery of Stirling, and its abbots styled Abbots 
of Stirling. The church belonging to it was called St Mary's ; 
and hence the street leading to it from Stirling was called by the 
name it still bears, St Mary's Wynd. It was frequently, in its palmy 
days, the scene of transactions of national importance. From the 
middle of the fifteenth century, it began to decline. At the time 
of the Reformation ; it was spoiled, and great part of the fa- 
bric demolished. It is understood to have furnished materials 
for the older houses of the adjoining village. The buildings ap« 
pear to have been of vast extent. One tower alone now remains. 
A large old building in St Mary's Wynd, on the west side, close 
to which was the North Port, enjoys a traditional importance, as 
being of great antiquity, and having been the residence of one 
of the king's household when the court was kept in the castle* 
This however is plainly fabulous. The date 1633; the style of 
architecture, the bastard Gothic, similar to that of Argyle House; 
the initials, J. C. and A. C, which may have been those of John 
Cowan and his wife ; the arms, which are those of the merchants, 
to which class he belonged ; and other circumstances ; — make it 
next to certain that it was erected by that individual, and proba- 
bly the house in which he dwelt. There is a large and handsome 
apartment in it, now used as a carpenter's workshop. The rest 
of the building is occupied as dwelling-houses. In this street;, also, 



426 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

there is within a garden belonging to a family of the name of 
Henderson, higher up on the same side, a well dedicated to the 
Virgin Mary. The ruins of a chapel or bath at St NiniaD's weQ 
have been already noticed. A more minute description of the 
numerous remains of antiquity in the form of ruins and buildings, 
still traceable here, must be left to the professed antiquary. 

There are no obelisks or crosses, or traces of ancient camps in any 
part of the parish. The ancient market cross of Stirling stood in 
the centre of Broad Street, opposite to the Town- House. It was 
removed in 1792. Traces of the great Roman military road have 
been found at a late period. And the remains of the stone piers, 
on which the famous bridge of Kildean rested, are still observable 
under the water of the river. A small sword was dug up lately in 
the King's Park, and is in the possession of Mr Tennant, the present 
lessee of the Constabulary farm. It appears to have been a cauteau 
de chasse^ of about the end of the fifteenth century. A curious box, 
of the size of a snuff-box, was found in Spring Garden sometime 
ago. It is of copper, gilt in the inside, and plated with silver on 
the outside, and probably contained some articles buried along with 
the individual, to the remains of whose coffin it was foun4 attached, 
in these ancient grounds of the Dominican convent. It is in the 
possession of Mr John Dow of the Stirling gas-work. Other anti- 
quities, such as coins, &c. are in the possession of James Lucas, Esq. 
Provost Gillies, and James Chrystal, Esq, and probably of other 
individuals residing here. There is in the session-house, in good 
preservation, and occasionally in use, the pulpit from which it is 
understood John Knox sometimes preached in the East Church. 
There is, also, in the Chapel Royal in the Castle, the wreck of 
one, occupied by him in that place of worship. 

Modem Buildings. — The Athenaeum, at the head of King Street, 
a handsome structure, highly ornamental to the neighbouring 
streets, having a lofty spire with a bell, and containing a reading- 
room and public library, the ground-floor being occupied as a shop, 
was opened on the 7th of January 1817. The Commercial Bank 
in Spittal Street, the Bank of Scotland in King Street, and the 
National Bank in Baker Street; all erected within these few 
years, are beautiful buildings. A large Corn Exchange, for the 
accommodation of those who attend the grain market on Fridays, 
has been lately erected ; and, besides being used for the special 
purpose of its erection, is occasionally occupied by such public 
meetings and festive entertainments as require a large space. 



STIRLING. 427 

The Royal Hotel, fronting Friars Wynd and the new road to the 
north, opened last year, is a great ornament to the locality in which 
it is placed ; and is most conveniently situated for visitors and 
travellers arriving in, or departing from, the town ; and along with 
the other hotels and inferior inns in the place, supplies for the 
many individuals and families, who from time to time, especially 
in the summer and autumn months, come to the place, the ac- 
commodations they require. Ten years ago a new bridge, in the 
best moderate style of such structures, was erected across the 
Forth, to the north of the town, a very little lower down than the 
old one, which still remains in use. A few mills for the woollen 
manufactory have been lately built; and a new parochial church is 
at present being erected in the eastern and lower part of the town, 
which promises to be a handsome structure. The material em- 
ployed in all buildings is almost universally stone. In ordinary 
dwelling-houses and shops, it is the trap or greenstone on which 
the town rests ; in those of a better sort, freestone, brought from 
quarries beyond the bounds of the parish. In a very few cases, 
brick, made in the place is employed. 

1 1 1. — Population. 
For the reasons assigned in the historical department, the po- 
pulation of the town is supposed to have been considerable from 
the time of the accession of the Stewarts to the throne ; approach- 
ing, probably, to about one-half of what it is at present. Nothing, 
however, can be said with certainty as to its amount, at any date 
prior to 1755; when, according to the return made to Dr Web- 
ster, the population of the parish was 3951. In 1792, by an ac- 
curate survey, it was found to be 4698. By the Government cen- 
sus in 1801, it was 5256; by that in 1811, nearly 6000; in 1821, 
7833; in 1831, excluding a few places, which on this occasion, 
and perhaps in the former cases, were included, but which really 
belong to the parish of Logic, 8499, of which 3876 were males, 
and 4623 females ; and by that of the present year 1841, 8914.* 
The population of the town and castle of Stirling is 8531. In 
that portion of the town which is in the parish of St Ninian's 
there are 270 persons ; in the villages of Raploch and Abbey, 
549; in the rural portion of the parish, 104. The probable cau- 
ses of the increase, which has taken place progressively since about 
the middle of last century, have been already traced to their source 

* In this are included the resident staff and garrison in the castlci amounting to 
268 penona; and the prisoners in the jail, to 54. 



428 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

in the peaceful setdeinent of the country. The agriculture of the 
fertile district, of which Stirling is the centre, has been improfed. 
An impulse has been given to trade and maou&ctnrea. The pas- 
sage of travellers through the town has immensely increased with 
the increasing inducements presented, and facilities giveu, to in- 
tercourse between different parts of the kingdom ; and, in partico- 
lar, by the opening up of the Highlands to tourists and odier fisi- 
tors. And in proportion as the attractions of Stiriiug itsdf havto 
been increased, a greater number of strangers have been led to 
settle in it. 

There are no resident nobility in the parish ; and the nimi- 
ber of individuals, or families, of independent fortune residing 
in it, it is impracticable to ascertain. The number of land- 
owners of L. 50 annual value and upwards, is 10. The aven^ 
number of persons in a family is nearly 4^. The people are not 
remarkable for strength, size, complexion, or any other personal 
qualities. The number of insane persons is 8 ; fatuous, 6 ; blind, 
4 ; deaf and dumb, 4. The people are not peculiar in respect of 
language, customs, domestic habits, or comforts. In all these re- 
spects, they partake of the character of that part of the lowlands of 
Scotland which borders on the Highlands ; from which, immigra- 
tions are frequently taking place of individuals and families, who 
for a time retain their peculiarities, until they gradually assume the 
general character of the population. 

Pawnbrohing is carried on to a great extent ; and, instead of 
proving any effectual relief to the poor, aggravates the evil, from 
which they resort to it for aid. The same class of persons^ who 
avail themselves of this delusive remedy, are in too many instances 
already demoralized by the use of ardent spirits ; and it rapidly ac« 
celerates their downward progress. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The whole rural portion of the parish may be said 

to be either actually cultivated, or occasionally under the plough. 

The Cow-piarks, extending to 50 or 60 acres, and a portion of the 

Constabulary farm, to about 23 acres, are kept in grass ; but these 

are rather suburban than rural. There are trees scattered, and in 

a few instances covering the ground continuously in groves or rows^ 

in different parts of the parish; chiefly in the outskirts of the town. 

Of these the indigenous are chiefly alders, birches, and oaks; 

the planted, many of which are magnificent and lofty, are chiefly 

elm, beech, ash, plane, and oak trees. 

The rent of laud \ias beew ^t^&M^^ tvivvv^^vxTvcv^x.Vft la&t seven 



STIRLING. 4'29 

years. This is ascribed by the very intelligent and talented agri- 
culturist,* from whom I have received my information, to the in- 
creased confidence with which the tenant may look for a fair ave- 
rage crop, in consequence of the introduction of tile-draining and 
other late improvements. The rent of carse land of good quality 
is from L.d^ 15s. to L.4 per acre; that of dry-field land from 
L.1, 15s. to L.2 per acre. In the Cow-parks of Stirling cows 
are admitted to pasture about Whitsunday, and leave about Martin- 
mas ; for which the rent in the lower one to the north of the town 
is L. 4, 4s., and in the upper one near the King's Park, L. 4. In 
the King's Park the rent is L.d, 5s. per acre. 

Wages. — The wages of carpenters throughout the year, are 
2s. 6d. per day ; those of masons ds. per day in summer, and 2s. 
6d. in winter. The wages of farm-servants are L. 9 to L. 15 per 
annum for men, and L. 4 to L. 7 for women ; of day labourers 
about 9s« per week ; in harvest lOs. to 15s. per week for men, and 
9s. to 12s. for women, without victuals. In«respect of the price of 
raw produce, && required for rural and domestic economy ; the 
breeds and improvement of sheep and cattle ; and the nature and 
duration of leases ; the landward part of this parish is precisely 
in the circumstances of the immediately adjoining portions of the 
parishes of St Ninians, Logic, Lecropt and Kincardine. With the 
exception of the Constabulary farm, which extends to 348 acres, 
the farms are very small ; only two exceeding 100 acres. The 
dwelling-houses are suitable to the size of the farms ; and, along 
with the other buildings, are in pretty good repair ; and seem for the 
roost part to be attended to, when they stand in need of renovation 
or improvement. On the Carse lands, which constitute a very large 
proportion of the whole in cultivation, the crops chiefly depended 
upon for remunerating the tenant are of course wheat, beans, and 
barley ; on the dry field lands, oats and barley ; with a proportion 
in each of turnips, hay, and grass, for preserving the suitable re- 
lation of crops, feeding and rearing sheep and cattle, and main- 
taining.the necessary complement of horses for labour. Draining, 
liming, manuring, excellent ploughing, fencing, and all other arts 
of husbandry adapted to the soil and climate, are practised ; and 
have kept pace with those, which characterize the system of agri- 
culture in the best farmed districts in this part of Scotland. 

Quarries and Mines* — There are no mines in the parish. Un- 

* Mr James Carmichaeli who, along with his brother, has very lately taken a new 
lease of their form of llaploch. 



430 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

der every part of the town, at a greater or smaller depth, is foond 
the greenstone, on which the superstratum of soil rests ; and, io 
many places where the foundations of houses are being dug out, 
or improvements are being made on the streets, and lines of com- 
munication from one part of the town to another, affords excellent 
materials for building, causewaying, and road*making. 

Salmon Fishery. — The salmon fisheries belonging to the place 
are carried on up and down the Forth, and even in the Teith; 
and extend somewhat beyond the boundaries of the parish. There 
is nothing peculiar in the manner in which they are kept up, or 
in the mode of fishing practised, which is by boats and ordinary 
drag-nets. The rents amounted for the year 1640, to L. 766. 

Average amount of raw produce raised in the parish as nearly as 
can be ascertained^ viz : 

Produce of grain of all kinds, wfaeUier raised for the food of mm, or 
of domestic animals, about 2345 quarters^ imperial measure, whicht 
at an average of fiars prices, amounts in value to • • L. S678 

Hay, 24060 stones at 6d. per stone, - • - 601 10 

Of potatoes, turnips, &c. cannot be ascertained. 

Qf lands in pasture. 

Of gardens and orchards. * 

Of crops cultivated for the arts. 

Of thinnings of woods, &c. 

Of fisheries, - - - . • - 766 00 

Of quarries and mines. 



Total yearly value of all that can be ascertained, L. 5246 10 

Manufactures and Trade, — A carefully prepared official report 
was drawn up in 1832, for the information of Government, respect- 
ing the town and suburbs of Stirling ; from which the following 
particulars relating to those two branches are extracted : — 

The following manufactures are carried on, amounting, as nearly 
as can be estimated, for the year 1681, to the extent attached to 
each of them per annum : 

Tartans and tartan shawls. . • . • L. 90.000 

Carpets, common, superfine, and Brussels, ... 23,000 

This is, however, considerably below an average year. 

Yams. -.---.-- 9,000 

Leather (tanners, curriers, and skinners), ... 24,000 

Cotton goods, ....... 10,000 

Soap and candles, ...... 20,000 

Malt, about 13,000 quarters per annum, worth at least - - 40.000 

Flour merchants and l)akcrs, ..... 25,000 

Coachmakers and rope- manufacturers, .... 6,000 

* Of these there are seven in the parish ; besides gardens without orchards attach* 
ed to them ; but, owing to the extreme precariousness of the crops, especially of fruit, 
for some years, and changes in the occupation in some cases, it has lieen found im- 
practicable to give any return. 



L. 20,000 








44,000 








31,000 








63,000 








17.000 








65,000 








5,000 








50,000 








15,000 








16,000 









STIBLING. , 431 

The trade and commerce of Stirling may be classed and esti- 
mated as follows : 

Foreign mnd home timber, ... 

Gnuo sold IB the market, about 42,000 bolls per annum. 
Grain imported by dealers at Stirling shore last year, 30,000 bolls. 
The importation averaging the last seven years has been 52,000 bolls. 
Teas, wines, spirits, and groceries, 

Hardware, iron, and nail^ made for exportation, • 

WooUen cloth, silks, and haberdashery, 
Tallow, oil, and Flax, .... 

Genend merchandise, at a moderate estimate, 
Thide in bricks, tiles, lime-burning, and coals, at least 
I^eing, (yams, home-made woollen cloth, silks, &c.) 
Wool expwyrted to England, per average of last seven years, 25,000 
sKmes. 

No estimate is here made of the business done in the numerous 
markets for horses, &c*; or by the sleam-boats, the gas com- 
pany, brewers, innkeepers, builders, joiners, plumbers, and other 
mechanics. 

Since 1832, the woollen manufacture has more than doubled. 
That of cotton has fallen off, and is now inconsiderable. Coach- 
building has much increased. There are three mills for spinning 
wooL In these, there are 140 hands employed. They work sis 
days of the week ; during five of which, they work eleven hours, 
and on Saturday nine. There are not less than ^80 looms em- 
ployed by Stirling manufacturers in the weaving of wool into tartan 
pieces, shawls, &C-. there being now little carpet weaving. They 
give employment to about 650 weavers, winders, &c. The days 
and hours of work with weavers are six days in the week, and 
fourteen hours in the day. There are employed in dyeing 
about 28 ; in tanning and skinning about 12 persons ; in coach- 
making, about 100 ; and in ropemaking, 20. In the four last- 
named, the hours of working are ten in the day. There may be 
ninety of the hands employed in connection with the weaving of 
woollen goods, residing beyond the parish. But, on the other 
band, one or two manufacturers residing out of the parish, employ 
weavers in it ; which, along with the few looms employed here by 
cotton-manufacturers in Glasgow, will, it is estimated, fully com- 
pensate for that circumstance. So that the whole number of per- 
sons within the parish employed in all the branches of manufac- 
ture carried on in Stirling, may be about 949. In all these 
branches, there is a fair remuneration to those engaged in them. 
The occupation of wool-spinning has an excellent effect on health ; 
and the regular employment, and the attention paid by the mas- 
ters, appear to have a good effect on the morals of those employed. 



432 , STIRLINGSHIRE. 

The occupation of weaving, when continued during so lai^ a 
portion of the day, can scarcely be considered beneGcial to health. 
It cannot be said, however, that, either in health or in moral cha- 
racter, there is any perceptibly injurious effect produced by the ma- 
nufactures of Stirling. 

Navigation. — The port of Stirling is the only one in the parish ; 
and the Forth the only navigable river. There are belonging to 
the port of Stirling twenty-two vessels, of from 50 to 350 tons 
burden ; two of them brigs engaged in foreign trade ; the others 
schooners, smacks, &c. trading up and down the Frith, or to ports 
in the united kingdom. Besides these, there are belonging to 
the port, three steamers for passengers, of the Stirling and Alloa 
Company ; and one or two luggage steamers. A passenger 
steamer, belonging to a Glasgow company, also occasionally plies 
between Stirling and the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, calling, as 
do the others, at the intermediate ports. Three schooners, 
bringing timber from Norway, regularly visit the port ; and occa- 
sionally one from Holland, with bark. The navigation of the 
Forth is much* impeded by shallows, which prevent vessels of 
heavy burden from reaching the port, and often greatly retard 
those which are able to reach it. A plan has been lately submit- 
ted to the magistrates and Council for deepening the river. The 
expense would be great ; and it may, perhaps, be impracticable to 
obtain the necessary funds, without the aid of Government It 
would, however, not only be of great and lasting advantage to 
Stirling, by raising its port lo a higher position ; but would be an 
improvement felt throughout a large and important district; and 
would, in so fiir, prove a national benefit. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market-Town, — Stirling is the only market-town in the parish. 
It has a weekly market on Fridays for grain, and the other produce 
of the district, which is well attended. It has also several fairs 
or extraordinary markets, for horses, wool, &c. annually, which 
are held on Fridays. There are only two villages, viz. Raploch 
and Abbey ; whose population has been already stated. 

Means of Communication, — The post-office is in a very conve- 
nient part of the town, in respect of proximity to the great roads 
by which the mails are received and despatched in all directions. 
There are mails to Edinburgh twice, and to Glasgow three times 
in the day, and through these cities to the south : to Perth, Aber- 
deen, &c. once ; to Doune, Callander, Alloa, Larbert, Falkirk, 



STIRLING. 433 

Denny, &c. once or twice. There are excellent turnpike-roads 
iu all directions. Tlie length of these, however, within the pari<:h 
is too trifling to be worthy of notice. The nnmber of public car* 
riages, as mail and stage-coaches, omnibuses, stage-cars, is very 
great, considering the size of Stirling. To these are to be added 
the steam-boats, constantly plying between Stirling and Newhaven 
or Granton Pier. Of these, there are iu the sumnner and autumn 
never less than two, and often three. I1iey convey an immense 
number of passengers to and from this place ; beside? those who 
embark and disembark at the other towns and villages on the 
Frith. The fares by these steam-boats are exceedingly low, and 
those by the other public conveyances, moderate* There are two 
bridges over the Forth, near to one another to the north of the 
town. By the new one, of course, the great north road now runs. 
The other ought to have been more particularly noticed under a 
former head. It is of very considerable antiquity. The date of 
its erection is unknown ; but it is probably not less than 300 
years old. Archbishop Hamilton ^^-as hanged upon it in 1571, by 
order of the Regent Lennox. It has four arches ; of which Ge- 
neral Blakeuey, Governor of the castle, caused the south one to be 
Mown up in 1745, to intercept the Highlanders. When this arch 
was restored, is unknown. It is of antique structure, narrow and 
high in the centre ; and had originally flanking towers, through 
which were gates near to each end ; and two low ones in the mid- 
dle. The new bridge has three arches; and a wide and level 
road- way. The harbour, for the accommodation of vessels in the 
port of Stirling, formed by the bending of the river, and a quay on 
the convex, which is at this point the south and Stirling, side, is 
not very commodious, but quite large enough for the increasing 
trade. 

Ecdetiastical History and Present Ecclesiastical State. — The 
occasion and date of the erection of the edifice now occupied by 
the East and West Churches have been already mentioned. 
When the Reformation had taken place, the apparatus and in- 
signia of the idolatrous Popish ritual were, of course, removed 
along with the abolition of the ritual itself; and the Protestant 
worship was set up. From this period until 1607, the parish 
was under the spiritual charge of one minister. A second minis- 
ter was then appointed ; but it was not till 1643 that a fixed endow- 
ment was given by the magistrates, &c. In 1731, upon an appli- 
cation from the inhabitants, the third charge' was created, upon 
which occasion they gave their consent to a multure, which had 

STIRLING. Ke 



434 STIRLINGSHIRB. 

been levied for some years, being perpetuated for its support 
From this time, the ministers of the 6rst and second charges were 
colleagues together in the East Church^jthe minister of the third 
charge preaching in the West, until, upon the deposition of Ebe- 
nezer Erskine, for whom this charge had been instituted, that 
ch\irch was disused as an ordinary place of worship, and only open- 
ed on sacramental occasions for the accommodation of those who 
could not find access to the East Church. Tliis state of things, 
notwithstanding one or perhaps more petitions of the inhabitants, 
continued till 1817, when the third charge was revired, and the 
West Church re-opened. The arrangement, in other respects, con- 
tinued the same down to 1826, when the then minister of the third 
charge, being appointed to the second, remained in the West 
Church, instead of being transferred to the East) and, on being ap- 
pointed in 1829 to the first charge, still remained in the West 
Church. The arrangement adopted since this last date has been, 
that the minister of the first charge is fixed in the West Church, 
the minister of the second charge in the East, and the minis* 
ter of the third charge preaches in each church alternately as col- 
league to both the others. This anomalous arrangement will soon 
be broken up, in consequence of the erection of the new church 
now in progress ; when each minister will have his own church, kirk- 
session, congregation, and parochial territory. A temporary ar- 
rangement, in so far as respects separate kirk-sessions and paro- 
chial districts, has meanwhile been adopted, in conjunction with 
the minister and session of the Old Light Burgher congregation, 
lately united to the Established Church, which can only go a little 
way towards the bringing about a right ecclesiastical economy, and 
to which it is unnecessary more jiarticularly to advert. One cir- 
cumstance which, along with others connected with the increase 
of the population, and the increased necessity of a closer and more 
adequate system of pastoral superintendence, urgently recommend 
an improvement in the present ecclesiastical arrangements, is the 
inconvenient position of the presently existing churches, situated 
on a high elevation in the very outskirts of the most inaccessible 
part of the town, and near to the extremity of the parish. This 
nconvenience will only be remedied in part by the new erection. 
A proper parochial arrangement will never be effected until the 
West Church be shut up, and another church be built in the north- 
ern quarter of the town. It has been ascertained by measurement 

that the accommodation in the East Church amounts to about 

G 



STIRMNG. 435 

1 195 sittings, that in the West to about 1144 ; in all 2839 ; the 
free sittings in both to only 80, most of them in the West Church, 
and inconveniently situai^d. The minister of the first charge alone 
has right to a glebe and manse* Since the old manse, already, 
mentioned, was taken down, there has been none. In lieu of it, 
L. 40 per annum is allowed him for house rent. His glebe ex* 
tends to nearly five acres. His stipend is as follows: — From 
teinds of lands principally in the parish of Stirling, and partly 
in that of St Ninians, the teinds of which belonged to the Ab- 
bey of Cambuskenneth, wheat, 4 bolls, 3 firlots, 2 pecks ; barley, 
96 bolls, 3 pecks, 2 lippies; oatmeal, 68 bolls; oats, 40 bolls, 
2 firlots, 1 peck, 2^ lippies; beans, 4 bolls, 3 firlots, 1 peck; 
money, including vicarage, L. 40, Os. 6d. ; allowance for commu* 
nion elements, payable by the heritors of the parish, L.9, 18s. 
lOd. ; allowance of the price of two beeves, averaging about L. 1 7 ; 
and a right to a boat's fishing in the river, at present rented by 
the town Tor L. 70. 

The minister of the second charge has a stipend of L. 250, and 
the minister of the third charge a stipend of L. 200. 

The sacrament of the Lord's Supper being dispensed twice an- 
nually in each of the two churches, in addition to the allowance 
for communion elements given to the minister of the first charge, 
three other allowances of L. 8, Gs. 8d. each, are given for the same 
purpose, which fall to the other two ministers ; and as, at present, 
the minister of the second charge presides in the celebration of 
the ordinance, and provides the communion elements once, and 
the minister of the third charge twice ; these allowances are dis- 
tributed accordingly. 

The following is a notice of the ministers of Stirling from the 
earliest period after the Reformation up to which they can be as- 
certained, with such particulars of their history as may with pro^ 
priety be introduced in a Statistical Account, in so far as I have 
been able to trace them. 

The first individual who appears to have occupied any ministe- 
rial office in the parish of Stirling, was Thomas Duncanson, 
lieadeTy who was, for uncleanness, suspended by the General As- 
sembly, December 31, 1563. I have found no subsequent notice 
of him. 

John Duncanson, chaplain to the King, is mentioned in the re- 
cords of the General Assembly, August 6, 1571, as one of the 
ministers commissioned to treat with the Regent about ecclcsiasti- 



436 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

cal affairs. He was moderator of the Assembly which met in 
August 1574, He may have discharged the duties of parochial 
minister, but does not appear to have heM the oBSce. 

The notorious Robert Montgomery was minister of Stirling as 
early as August 1581. By the General Assembly, which met at 
Glasgow in April that year, he was appointed a commissioner with 
two other ministers to erect Presbyteries at Stirling and Linlith- 
gow ; and, accordingly, on the 8th of August, assisted at the erec- 
tion of the presbytery of Stirling, of which place, as appears from 
the records, he was then minister. Two months after, the process 
against him for unsound doctrine, dissolute life, and contumacy, 
was commenced, which terminated in his deposition and excom- 
munication in April 1582. He appears to have been as early as 
1564 minister of Cupar in Fife* 

The minister of Cambuskenneth sat in the Presbytery in 1581. 

James Anderson succeeded to Montgomery in 1582. 

Patrick Simpson was settled in 1591. In 1607, by an order of 
Council, an attempt was made to have him created perpetual mode- 
rator of the presbytery ; but the presbytery answered, " that he had 
not been able, on account of sickness, to discharge his own calling in 
preaching; much less was he able to discharge the office of constant 
moderator ; and therefore they could not burden him with an im- 
possibility." 

Robert Mure was admitted coadjutor to Patrick Simpson the 
same year. This was the earliest appointment of a second minis- 
ter. In 1610 it was ordained, by the Presbytery, that the second 
minister was not to take the first charge without consent of the 
presbytery. 

Henry Guthrie was admitted to the first charge in May 1632. 
In 1638 he was desired to apply to the magistrates for a fellow- 
labourer. It does not appear what was the result at that time ; 
but John Allan was appointed to the second charge in 1645; and 
Guthrie and he were put out by the commission of the General 
Assembly for malignancy in 1648. 

James Guthrie succeeded Henry in the first charge in 1649; 
and was executed in Edinburgh in 1661. 

Bennet was appointed to the second charge in 1650. 

Mr Guthrie, with the concurrence of his two elders, the provost, 
and two bailies, appointed Robert Rule to fill the second chnrge 
on its becoming vacant. But this not being sanctioned by the 
town-council, they appointed Matthias Simpson, who was admitted 



STIRLING. 437 

by the presbytery on the 19th November 1655, after some inter- 
ruption by the governor of the castle, on the ground of the ques- 
tion raised by Mr Guthrie, as to his right to nominate the second 
minister, being still pending before the Council of State. The result 
of the disagreement was, an order of the Court of Session to build 
up a wall of pnrtition, to divide the fabric of the church into two distinct 
churches; which was done, and two congregations formed, in 1656. 
Matthias Simpson succeeded James Guthrie in the first chaise 
in 1661, and died in 1664. The cause of the opposition made by 
Guthrie to Simpson, becomes evident from the opposite courses 
they followed at the Restoration of Charles. Guthrie had been a 
Protester, and died a martyr to his principles ; Simpson, a Re- 
solutioner, conforms to prelacy and is promoted. 

Kynnier was appointed to the second charge in 1663. 

James Forsyth, minister of Airth, was appointed to the first 
charge in 1665, and died in 1675. 

Patrick Murray was settled in the second charge in 1668; and 
died in 1682. 

Dr William Pearson was appointed to the first charge in 1677, 
and died in 1679. 

Dr Munro obtained the first charge in 1679; and resigned in 
1693, probably not choosing to conform to the Presbyterian Es- 
tablishment. 

James Hunter was appointed to the second charge in 1682 ; 
and deposed in 1693. 

Robert Rule, who had been made second minister by James 
Guthrie, and had since been minister of Kirkaldy, was appointed 
to succeed James Hunter in the second charge in 1693; and, in 
August 1694, succeeded Dr Munro in the first; and died in 1703. 
John Forrester from London was admitted to the second charge, 
December 3, 1696, and died in June or July 1702. 

James Brisbane, minister of Kilmalcolm, was admitted Decem- 
ber 29, 1704, to the second charge; and to the first, some time 
previous to January 1706; and died in June 1725. 

Macauley, minister of Inchinnan, was admitted to the se- 

cond charge, October 30, 1706 ; and died October 1715. 

Alexander Hamilton, minister first of Ecclesmachen and then 
of Airth, was admitted to the first charge, February 2, 1726; and 
died January 29, 1738. 

Charles Moore, minister of Culross, was admitted to the second 
charge, March 26„ 1718; and died November 1736. 



438 STiRLlNGSBlBC. 

In 1731 tho third charge was created; and Ebenezer firskiae, 
minister of Portmoak, was admitted to it He was deposed in 
1 740.* The third charge was in abeyance from this date till 
1817. 

Thomas Turner, minister of Tulliallan, was admitted to the first 
charge, December 31, 1740 ; and 

Daniel Macqueen, minister of Dalziel, was on the same day 
admitted to the second charge. He was removed to Edinburgh, 
June 1758; and Mr Turner died, November 1, 1762. 

John Muschet was ordained and admitted to the second charge, 
August 2, 1760; was translated to the first, October 4, 17€N); 
and died April 22, 1793. 

Thomas Clelland, minister of Cambusnethan, was admitted to 
the first charge, August 4, 1763; and died July 31, 1769* 

Thomas Randall, minister of Inchture, was admitted to the first 
charge, June 21, 1770 ; and died July 26, 1780. 

Walter Buchanan was ordained and admitted to the second 
charge, November 23, 1780 ; and translated to Canongate, Edin- 
burgh, June 18, 1789. 

James Somerville, (afterwards, D. D.) minister first at Rotter- 
dam, then at Whitburn, was admitted to the second charge, Oc- 
tober 8, 1789, and to the first, June 27, 1793; and died January 
23, 1817. 

William Innes was ordained and admitted to the second charge, 
August 15, 1793; and, having become an Independent, was de- 
posed October 8, 1799. 

John RusscI, minister of the High Church, Kilmarnock, was 
admitted to the second charge, January 30, 1800 ; and died Fe- 
bruary 22, 1817. 

Archibald Bruce was ordained and admitted to the third chargfe, 
now revived, September 24, 1817 ; and died June 11, 1824. 

George Wright, (D. D.) minister of Markincb, was admitted 
to tho first charge, January 21, 1818; and died October 24, 
1826. 

Alexander Small, (D. D.) minister of Stair, was admitted to 
the second charge the same day ; and died January 5, 1825. 

Archibald Bennie, assistant minister of Albion Street Chapel, 
Glasgow, was admitted to the third charge, October 14, 1824; 
to the second charge, June 17, 1825 ; to the first charge, March 

• fi'ie notice of him aiuong *« Eniiiicnt Persons." 



StmLING* 439 

81, 18*29; and translated to Ladv Yester's, Eduiburgh, Se|iteui* 
ber 24, 1635. 

John Marshall, minister of Swallow Street Chapel, London, 
was admitted to the third charge, September 15, 1825; and to 
ibe second, July 29, 1830 ; and died September 3, 1833. 

James Macfarlane was ordained and admitted to the third charge. 
May 3, 1831 ; and translated to St Bernards, Edinburgh, Janu- 
ary 12, 1 832. 

Alexander Leitch, minister of Gartmore Chapel, was admitted 
to the third charge, September 13, 1832. 

George Cupples, minister of Legerwood, was admitted to the 
second charge, January 9, 1834. 

James Julius Wood, minister of Newton-upon^Ayr, was admit- 
ted to the Grst charge. May 12, 1836; and translated to New 
Greyfriars^ Edinburgh, June 5, 1839. 

Alexander Beith, minister first of the Gaelic Chapel, Hope 
Street, Glasgow, then of Kilbrandon, and afterwards of Glenelg, 
was admitted to the first charge, September 26, 1839. 

There are no chapels of Ease in the parish ; but the Spittal 
Square Church and congregation, formerly belonging to the Old 
Light Burgher Synod, and now united to the Established Church, 
stands verv much in the same relation to the Establishment. The 
minister, the building, &c. are supported entirely by seat rents, 
collections at the church doors, &c. The ministers of the follow- 
ing Seceding and Dissenting congregations in Stirling are support- 
ed, and their places of worship kept up in the same way, viz. Unit- 
ed Secession, 2 ; Cameronian, 1 ; Independent, 1 ; Episcopalian, 
1 ; Baptist, 3. The Baptist congregations^ two of which are very 
small, have no place of worship erected for them ; but meet, one 
in the Guildhall, one in the Tradeshall, the third in a hired apart- 
ment There is also a Popish chapel, erected within these very 
few years by contributions obtained in Scotland, England, and, it 
is supposed, foreign parts. How the priest is supported, I cannot 
say ; but believe, partly at least, by contributions from his congre- 
gation. This chapel is under the jurisdiction of the Bishop re- 
siding in Edinburgh. There has been no accurate enumeration, 
that can be depended on, of the individuals, or families, belonging 
to the difierent denominations since 1836, when returns were made 
to the Royal Commissioners. From the reports then given in by 
the ministers of the Dissenting denominations, there were 2470 
individuals, of all ages, or about 561 families, within the parish^ 



440 STlHLlNnSHlRE. 

professing to bo connected with their congregations. It was found 
by a careful survey made, to enable the ministers of the Established 
Church to prepare their report, that 320 families, comprehending 
about 1400 individuals of all ages, had no right to sittings in any 
place of worship. From which it appeared that there were 4488 
individuals of all ages, or about 1016 familibs, belonging to the 
Estal)lisliment. Since that time, the congregation of Spittal Square^ 
with the exception of a few individuals, has been united with the 
Established Church. This congregation, however, is small ; and 
some increase has taken place in the Independent coi^regation, 
by m6ans of several visits made to Stirling by some teachers of 
that persuasion, who laboured with great zeal, both by public 
preaching and by domiciliary visits, to obtain proselytes from the 
Presbyterian churches ; and were in some degree snccessful in 
drawing off individuals, both from the Established Church and from 
the Seceders. The relative proportion, therefore, of the adherents 
of the Established Church remains much as it was in 1886. It is to 
be remarked that the families having no sittings anywhere, almost 
in every instance profess to belong to the Established Church ; 
and probably some considerable proportion of them do occasion- 
ally, and a few with something like regularity, attend public wor- 
ship in one or other of the congregations connected with it. Most 
of the places of worship are well attended. The average num- 
ber of conununicants in the churches connected with the Establish- 
ment, may be from 1200 to 1300. — The only societies, properly 
belonging to the parish, for strictly religious purposes, are the Tract 
Society, which distributes 2900 tracts monthly, some hundreds of 
which, however, go beyond the bounds of the parish ; and the 
Sabbath School Society. The Female society, for the benefit of 
aged and destitute women, combinesthe temporal relief of its objects 
with attention to their religiousinstruction. The Stirling Dispensary is 
supported by a regularly organized society, for supplying poor patients 
with medical attendance and medicines. The annual average 
amount ofthecontributionsofthese societies is about L.200, 15s. S^d. 

Besides these, Stirling is the seat of one county Missionary, and two 
county Bible Associations ; whose annual contributions amount at 
an average to L. 216, lis. 2^(1. The average annual amount of 
church collections for religious and charitable purposes for the 
last five years was about L. 382. 

Education. — The number of schools in the parish of all kinds, 
exclusive of Sabbath schools, is 19; of Sabbath schools, 18; total 



STIRLING. 



441 



37. There are, properly speakiiijT, no parochial schools. The 
magistrates and coiHicil are patrons of four schools; viz the High 
School ; the writing and mathematical school ; the 6rst English 
school ; and the second English, or Allan's Hospital School. 
The rector of the High School and the teachers of the other three 
schools have L.50 each of salary ; and the rector receives .L.20 
yearly for an assistant. The rector has a dwelling-house and gar- 
den. All the teachers occupy school-houses belonging to the 
burgh, excepting Allan's Hospital School. The salaries are paid 
out of the property of the town, and the three hospitals, in 6xed pro- 
portions. The branches taught at the High School are> Greek, 
Latin, French, geography, and ancient history. At the writing 
and mathematical school, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, geo- 
graphy, navigation, and mathematics in general. At the first En^ 
glish school, English, elocution, geography, and drawing ; at the 
second English school, English, history, geography, writing, and 
arithmetic, and occasionally book-keeping and practical mathe- 
matics. The school fees are, grammar school, 7s. 6d. per quar- 
ter ; writing school, ds. 6d. per ditto ; for one hour in the day, 
2s. 6d. per ditto ; first English school, 5s. per ditto ; second dit- 
to, English, ds. 6d., and other branches with English, 4s. 6d. per 
ditto. These fees are fixed by the patrons, for children belong- 
ing to families having right to benefit from any of the hospitals. 
At the grammar school and writing school, higher fees are charged 
in certain cases to others. At the grammar school, when French, 
is combined with Latin or Greek, the fee is 12s 6d. per quarter. 
At the writing school, algebra is charged lOs. 6d. per quarter ; ma- 
thematics, comprehending the First Six Books of Euclid, L.], Is. 
per course ; plain trigonometry, 10s. 6d. per ditto ; mensuration, 
10s. 6d. per ditto; navigation, L. 1, lis. 6d. per ditto. Thema-> 
gistrates and council likewise patronize two other schools, by giv- 
ing to their teachers a small salary, and a dwelling-house and 
school -room ; and another, by giving the use of the upper hall in 
Cowan's Hospital. In these, English, writing, and arithmetic, 
are taught. There are eight English schools altogether, dependent 
on school fees, three of them boarding and day schools for girls ; 
one by the Stirling-and Bannockburn Caledonian Society ; one, the 
infant school, supported by a Society of ladies, aided, in cases in 
which it can be obtained, by a weekly fee of l^d. ; one for girls, sup- 
ported in a somewhatsimilar manner. There isa recently commenced 
seminary for English, Latin, Greek, geography, writing, arithme* 



442 STIUIJNQSHIIIF.. 

tic> and mathematics ; w hich is supported by schooUfees, aided fur 
a time by subscriptions from individuals, and one from the town. 
In this school, the fees are, for English, writing, &c 10s. 6d.;aDd 
for Latin, Greek, &c. 15s. per quarter. There is another for si- 
milar branches, on private adventure, in which the fees are 10s. 6d. 
per quarter in all cases. The fees in the boarding and day schools 
for girls, which comprehend a great variety of branches of female 
education, it would be tedious to detail. In all the other English 
schools, they are from 2s. 6d. to ds. per quarter for English, and 
8s. to ds. 6d. for writing. In the infant school, religious and mo* 
ral training is the principal object, along with which a foundation 
is laid for education in reading, &c The number of children and 
young persons attending all these schools may be from 950 to 
1000. There are some children of different ages who can neither 
read nor write ; but their number, to the best of my knowledge, is 
small. I have met with a very few grown up persons who could 
neither read nor write. One of them, a female, at present a ser- 
vant in the town, in her childhood resided in a remote part of the 
parish of St Ninian's, four or 6ve miles from the nearest school ; 
and had to take charge of the younger children, and otherwise as- 
sist her]mother in domestic matters, when she ought to have been 
receiving her education. The younger children, when they ar- 
rived at the proper age, were sent to school ; but she, being of 
more use at home than they, never could obtain this privi- 
lege. In the other cases, there might be similar hindrances. 
Education, such as it is, is almost universally diffused throughout 
even the poorest classes of the community. The kirk-session, 
Allan's and Cunninghame's Mortifications, a small fund left by 
Mrs Turner, widow of a minister of Stirling, the two Ladies' So- 
cieties, which support the infant and girls' schools, and the occa- 
sional benevolence of private individuals, greatly contribute to this 
result. The education received, however, is, in the case of the 
poorer classes of children, to a great extent defective ; and the 
source of much less subsequent advantage in improving the mind, 
and cultivating moral and religious principles, than it might be, 
were they in circumstances to remain longer at school, and were 
the schools, at which many of them receive their education, so en- 
dowed as to secure the employment of teachers of a higher grade 
of attainments, not only in respect of literary and other knowledge, 
but also in the art of communicating instruction to the youn«^. 
No part of the parish can be said to be so distant from any school 



STinUNG. 4i3 

AS to prevent attendance at gome one or other. Yet the children 
in the Abbey, having to cross the river in a boat, and to pay for 
bein^ ferried over, are, to some considerable extent, confined to 
the one school in that village ; and discouraged from attending 
schools in the town, where they might have a choice of teachers, 
and acquire the higher branches of education. It is not a greater 
number of schools that is required, but in many cases better quali- 
fied teachers, and an improved system of tuition. This remark is 
far from being intended to apply generally ; or to derogate from 
the high character sustained by several well qualified and success- 
ful teachers, who enter with that enthusiasm into the spirit of their 
almost incalculably important profession, without which much suc- 
cess in any is not to be expected. It ought to be added, that, in 
most of the schools in which English is taught, the Scriptures are 
read ; the Shorter Catechism is repeated ; and considerable atten- 
tion is paid by the teachers in these, and in other ways, to religi* 
ous training. It needs scarcely to be added, that in all the Sab" 
bath schools, of which II are in connection with the Sabbath 
School Society ; and 7 are undertaken by ministers, with the as- 
sistance of elders, or connected with congregations, the services of 
the teachers, and the instruction received, are entirely gratuitous. 
Literature. — There is no parochial library. There are some 
congregational libraries. One of these belongs to the East Church, 
and was formed six or seven years since ; one belongs to the Cowan 
Street United Secession Congregation ; one to the Cameronian 
Congregation in the Craigs, &c. These consist almost entirely of 
books of a religious character. — The Stirling Subscription Libra- 
ry comprehends general literature. It was founded January 1, 
1805; has 127 subscribers or rather proprietors, and upwards of 
2000 volumes ; and, under the present system of management, has 
the prospect of receiving an annual accession of from L.40 to L.50 
worth of books. It embraces town and country; but has few 
subscribers at any considerable distance from Stirling. — The 
School of Arts was instituted in 1826. Its object is " to instruct 
the members in the principles of mechanical philosophy, and those 
other branches of science, which are of essential service in the ex- 
ercise of the arts of life." Its members amount to 201 ; viz. se- 
nior, 115; junior, 56 ; ladies, 30. It has a library, and a museum ; 
and appears to be prospering, and conferring benefit on those for 
whose improvement it was established. There are two or three 
circulating libraries ; and there is a book club, extending to the 



4ili STIULINGSHIKE. 

neighbouring district, for purcbasing and circulating among its 
members new publications. There are two reading- rooms, where, 
besides newspapers, periodical publications are taken in. The 
medical practitioners of Stirling, ha?e, within these few years, 
fornoed an association for promoting their knowledge of the litera- 
ture, and otherwise advancing the objects, of their profession. 
There are two weekly newspapers, the one published on Thurs- 
day, the other on Friday ; which have each a considerable circu- 
lation in the town, and in the surrounding district. 

Charitable InstituHuns. — There are three hospitals. The most 
ancient is that founded, it is believed, about 1530, by Robeit 
Spittal. He had been tailor to James IV., or rather, as appears 
by an inscription on the bridge over the Teith, near Doune, erect- 
ed by him in that year, to James's Queen, the princess Margaret, 
daughter of Henry VH. of England. The charter of mortifica- 
tion is lost, and the amount unknown. The funds were laid out 
in lands in the neighbourhood of the.town. The revenue, amount- 
ing to about L. 400, is applied to the relief principally of decayed 
members of the crafts of Stirling, whether resident or not The 
house belonging to it, in which aUo, as appears from some old 
records of the kirk-session^ the persons enjoying the benefit of the 
charity at one period resided, is that known by the name of the 
Tnules* Hall, in Spittal Square or Cowan's Yard. The number 
of pensioners, who receive from Is. to 2s. 6d. weekly, is about 74. 
— Cowan's Hospital was founded in 1689, by John Cowan, merchant 
in Stirling, for the support of twelve decayed guild-brethren. 
The house belonging to it was erected after his death, for their 
reception ; but, as scarcely any could be found to accept the be- 
nefit on condition of living in the house, after a period of nearly 
ninety years, the patrons having purchased lands with the accumu- 
lated funds, resolved to follow out the spirit at least of the donor's 
will, by giving pecuniary relief to decayed members of the guildr}', 
and to their widows and daughters. The sum mortitied was 
L.2222 Sterling. The free revenue from the lands now amounts 
to L.2000 per annum. There are about 143 weekly pensioners 
who receive from Is. 6d. to 6s. ; and eleven who receive quarterly 
pensions of from L.1, to L.2 10s. — John Allan, writer in Stirling, 
founded the hospital, which bears his name, by a deed of donation, 
dated March 20, and June 5, 1724, for the maintenance, educa- 
tion, clothing, and apprenticeship, of the malechildren of poor and 
indigent tradesmen. The deed contains very judicious provisions, 



STIRLING. 445 

manifesting great sagacity and benevolence. A house was built 
in Spittal Street, in which the children are taught and boarded 
with the master. This arrangement not being found to answer 
expectation, it was discontinued. The lower part is now occupied 
in school-rooms ; and the upper part let out in dwelling-houses. 
The sum mortified was L.1666, Ids. Sterling. Lands were pur- 
chased ; the free revenue arising from which, after deducting the 
expenses of management, amounts to about L.dOO, and is applied 
in terms of the will of the donor ; and occasionally also in giving 
donations and education to daughters of tradesmen. The number 
of boys enjoying the benefit of the foundation is 23. — Besides 
these hospitals, there is a mortification made by Alexander Cun- 
ninghame, merchant in Stirling, in 1809 ; the interest of which is 
applied, agreeably to his will, to the maintenance and education, 
and putting out to trades, of male children of guild-brethren, and 
mechanics. The sum available to the purposes of his will, being 
the residue of his estate, amounts to L.5724, 1 Is. 2d. The num- 
ber of boys enjoying the benefit of the charity, is 20. In the ma- 
nagement of the affairs of Cowan's Hospital, the minister of the 
first charge is conjoined with the Town Council ; and in the af- 
fairs of Allan's Hospital, the minister of the second charge. Of 
Spittal's Hospital, and Cunninghame's Mortification, the magis- 
trates and Council are sole patrons. 

Dispensary. — The Stirling Dispensary was instituted in 1830. 
It is under the management of a Committee of directors, annually 
elected by the subscribers. There is an ordinary^ medical attend- 
ant, with whom are associated three consulting physicians. At- 
tendance is given, at a fixed hour, on three days of the week, at the 
dispensary. Such patients as are unable to come are visited in 
their own dwellings, whether in town or country. Subscribers of 
58., and kirk-sessions of all denominations, contributing I^ 2 an-^ 
nually, are entitled to recommend patients. The medical attend- 
ant has a salary of L. 10; and small allowances for visits in the 
country. I'he subscriptions for last year (1840) amounted to 
L. 54, Ids. The institution is in good circumstances, having 
L. 286 in the bank ; while the most generous system seems to be 
acted upon in relation to the objects of the charity. During the 
last year, there were 264 cases treated in the dispensary ; of which 
228 were from the parish of Stirling. Of these Stirling cases, 
the most frequently occurring diseases were, continued fever, 46 ; 
small-pox, 17; constipation, 13; ulcer, 12; heart diseases, 8; 



416 STIRLINGSniRE. 

tncasleii, 8; ophthalmia, 8; hernia,?; contusion, 6; hysteria, 6; 
scabies, 6 ; scarlatina, 5 ; abscess, 5 : and the results were, cured, 
199; relieved, 20; died, 26; remaining, 19. 

There are a few Friendly Societies ; but I have not obtained 
information as to their description, or economical effects. From 
what I know of the condition of the poorer classes here, I appre* 
bend the benefit derived from them, in promoting industrious ha- 
bits aud a spirit of independence, is inconsiderable.* 

Poor^s Funds. — Besides the funds prorided for the relief of the 
poor by church collections, and other means adopted by the kirk- 
session, such as funeral dues, sales of lairs in the church-yard, al- 
location of a portion of the proclamation fees in certain cases, &e^ 
there is what is called the Poor's Scheme, for raising money by 
annual voluntary contributions, in aid of the ordinary parochial 
funds administered by the kirk-session. The managers of this 
fund are the ministers of all denominations, and a number of other 
individuals annually elected by the contributors. The magistrates 
give it their countenance and support ; and the provost, when pre- 
sent, presides at its meetings, which take place within the council 
house once in the month. The average number of persons receiv- 
ing a stated weekly allowance from one or other of these two funds, 
was, during the last five years 178 ; and the average weekly allow- 
ance to each was Is. Besides thesestated allowances, there are oc- 
casional donations given to paupers, not regular pensioners, especi- 
ally from the session funds. Coffins are provided by the session 
for paupers at the rate of 10s. each, and sometimes grave-cloths. 
Clothing is given from their funds, to a considerable amount in the 
year, to poor children, and to a few poor and aged women ; and 
several children are educated at their charge. The whole annual 
amount of funds raised for the relief of the poor and administered 
by these two bodies, taking the average of the last five years, was 
as foHov.s: — Session funds, viz. church collections, L.250, 18s, 
0{;d. ; miscellaneous, L. 11, 6s. lOd. ; legacies, L. 27, 10s.; 
Poor's Scheme funds, L. 235, 9s. 6d. ; amounting in all to L. 525, 
4s. 4jgd. There does not appear to be any reluctance on the 
part of the poor to avail themselves of parochial relief. Anv feel- 
ing of this nature seems to have been for some time extinct. 

Prison. — The number of prisoners committed to Stirling jail, 
from the commencement of the present year, till the 1 9th of Oc- 
tober inclusive, was 231; of whom belonged to the parish, 65; 

Since tlic above was in types, a proposal has boon circulated for the iustiuition 
of a Savings' Bank on the National Security system. 



StlttLlNG. 447 

to the county exclusive of the parish, 107 ; came from beyond 
the county, 59. The offences for which they were committed 
were as follows : — viz. theft, 111; receipt of theft, 3 ; fraud and wil- 
ful imposition, 6 ; embezzlement, 2 ; perjury, 1 ; uttering base 
coin, 4; forgery, 3; house-breaking, 18; assault, 66; malicious 
mischief, 6; poaching, 2; prison-breaking,!; desertion, 8 ; cul- 
pable homicide, 1 ; concealment of pregnancy, 1 ; child-murder, 3. 
In the same proportion there would be for the whole year as 
follows : viz. ; total committed, 289 ; from the parish, 81 ; county, 
133; beyond, 75. And the more frequently occurring offences 
would be; theft, 139; house-breaking, 16; assault, 83; deser- 
tion, 10; wilful fraud and imposition, 7 or 8; malicious mischief, 
7 or 8; and uttering base coin, 5. 

It is proper to mention, that the one case of alleged child-mur- 
der, for which three persons were committed to prison, turned out 
a complete failure. No doubt was left of the innocence of the 
parties. 

The prison is pretty well secured ; and as much attention is 
paid to the health of the prisoners in respect of diet, lodging, 8ce. 
as can be done in the circumstances of the case. The building 
is unfit for a jail in many respects ; in particular as not admitting 
of proper classification, a defect highly injurious to the inmates, 
and especially to the younger and less hardened offenders. It is 
a nuisance to the neighbourhood ; and the windows looking down 
upon the Street have often afforded a medium of communication 
with persons beneath. It has long been earnestly desired that a 
new jail should be built in a different locality ; and there is said to 
be now some prospect of it. The jail is under the charge of a 
governor, who has a salary of L. 50 from the burgh, and L. 54 
from the counties of Clackmannan and Kinross, with certain fees, 
which amount to about L. 10 more. He has an assistant^ or un* 
der jailer. It is under the direction and control of the Board of 
Commissioners, and inspector, appointed by a late Act of Parlia- 
ment. A chaplain is much needed for the religious instruction of 
the prisoners, and the Board are empowered to provide one, but 
have not yet taken any steps towards such an appointment. The 
ministers of Stirling are unable to pay adequate attention to the 
jail. Their visits are of necessity miscellaneous and unfrequent. 
A few ladies regularly visit, and communicate religious instruction 
to, the female prisoners; and there is reason to trust that benefit 
has been received by some of them. 

Innsy Alehouses, c^-c — There are 96 of these, of dififo^r--* 



448 " STIRLINGSHIRE* 

degrees of respectability in the parish ; of which 91 are in 
the town, and 5 in the villages of Kaploch and Abbey. Some 
of these, no doubt, are necessary ; but, to such an amount, they are 
the source of much evil. Many of them are of the worst descrip- 
tion ; receptacles for the vilest characters, giving iacility, and hold- 
ing out temptation, to drunkenness, profligacy, profanation of the 
Sabbath, and the many vices which follow in their train. They 
have a most injurious influence on the morals of the lower orders : 
they give grievous offence and scandal to those members of the 
community who have better tastes and principles, when they henr, 
and that often on the Sabbath, the sound of revelry proceeding 
from them, and witness in their neighbourhood the revolting scenes 
to which they give rise ; they tend to lower the tone and feeling 
of the mass of the inhabitants in relation to the virtues of sobriety 
and decency, and the sacredness of the day of rest ; and they re- 
flect discredit on the place where such practices prevail, and such 
depravity is exhibited. One pregnant cause of this evil is the 
readiness of the owners of houses to allow them to be occupied in 
this way for the sake of obtaining a higher rent, without regard to 
the mischievous use to be made of their property. Another is the 
granting of licenses, without suflScient inquiry as to the character 
of the applicant, and the moral expediency of planting down, or 
continuing, for the mere purpose of sordid trafiic and gain to an 
individual, what may prove a powerful stimulant to crime, and a 
pest to the community. The effect produced by the great num- 
ber of low tippling-houses, and the facility with which almost the 
smallest pittance in the hand of a poor person can be exchan»Ted 
for ardent spirits at a grocer's shop, in increasing the number of 
the destitute, and sinking them into deeper wretchedness, has been 
for a long period forcing itself upon the notice of every real friend 
to the moral welfare of the poor. There are, no doubt, other 
causes to which the growing pauperism may be traced ; and some 
of these, perhaps, to a certain extent, peculiar to Stirling. One 
which ought not to pass without remark, is the great number of 
charitable institutions, on which so large a portion of the people 
have a claim, training them to a species of pauperism ; but no one 
can entertain a doubt that the circumstance I have been endea- 
vouring to illustrate, is one of the main and most malignant foun- 
tains of the great and spreading evil. 

Fuel — The fuel employed is pit-coal from Bannockburn, Green- 
yards, &c., which being only two or three miles from Stirling, the 



STIRLING. 449 

price is only to a trifling extent enhanced by the expense of car- 
riage. Yet coal is dear. An advance on the price took place about 
five years ago. Befote that time, the best coal could be obtained for 
little more than 6d. per cwt, or from 10s. to lis. per ton. Since 
that tUDe» it has cost from 8d. to 9d. per cwt., or from 19s. 4d. to 
15s. per ton. A few peats are brought from Blair- Drummond 
moss, and sold for fueL 

MiscKiXANSous Observations. 
The most remarkable diflferences between the present state of 
the parish of Stirling and that which appears to have existed at 
the date of the former Statistical Account, are the following : 

1. A great increase of the town, both in extent an^ population. 

2. A great improvement of the buildings, by which the comfort 
of the inhabitants has been augmented, and the natural beauty of 
the situation has been set off to advantage by handsome, and, in 
some cases, splendid edifices, both public and private. 

3. An immense improvement of the streets in respect of slope, 
causeway, and side-pavement'; and the lighting of the town with 
gas, which has also been introduced into the churches and meet- 
ing-houses, as well as many private dwellings* 

4. New institutions, literary, professional, charitable, and reli- 
gious. 

5. A considerable increase of the trade of the town and port, 
and decay in some kinds of manufacture, with extension of others, 
in particular that of woollen goods. 

6. A considerable change of the relative proportions of the ad- 
herents of the Established Church and those of the Dissenting 
denominations ; the latter now bearing a smaller proportion to the 
former. 

7. The character of the people does not appear to have im- 
proved ; but the contrary. A great number of young persons have 
been, and are, growing up regardless of the Sabbath and of reli- 
gious ordinances ; and habits of intemperance have been increasing 
among the lower orders. This may be traced in part, to the in- 
crease of the population without a corresponding augmentation 
of the provision made for their pastoral instruction, &c. ; to the 
decay of parental training and habits of domestic piety, consequent 
on this increasing disproportion ; to other causes, which have al- 
ready been particularly adverted to ; and to others still, which might 
require more argument, and a larger induction of facts to establish 
them, than could here be admitted. 

STIRLING. F f 



450 STIRLINGSHIRE. 

Several other remarks, which might with propriety hare beeD 
introduced here, hare beeo anticipated m various parts of this 
article.* 

* Beudes Um genUanMi wboM aid I haw tlntdj ■eknowledKed, I lunr»li>eipRti 
Uie obligirtioiii I am under to Mr William Drummood of Coocy Fark» for the ae- 
aoimtgraioftbaZoologj and Botany of theparirii ; toJamaa LuoMt Ea%> aad JaBMf 
CbrjMal, £aq. lor faluaUe iHiitanea in tha cbpartmant of Anetenl Bnikfingiandaii* 
tiquitica; and to William Galimitfa, Eaq. town-derk, far the aeeiinta and Im. 
portant inlbrmation td whidi be has ^ren ma aocea, on many pointa, on which ofli* 
eial aothoritica were neoeemry to be conaulted. I am not pcrroitted to name the 
geotlenian from whom I bate received Taloabla hdp» in rdatm to the McCeoiolop 
ofStirfinf. 



NoU rtipecHag iht endkm nf th§ MMfatf mm oeet^kd ly Ike Etui and Wed 
Chmrehet,^Jn writing the history of this building, after a earcAil oomparisoo of all 
I had read, and aU the information I hadotherwise obtained on the snlijcet, lado^ 
the aoeountgiTcn in the Celt aa, upon the whole, the meet probeble. Bat I have since 
seen amongst the ancient reeordsia the town-clerk's oiBee^ certain chartera, of date 1460, 
U7I, and I472t of James II. or III. to WiUiam Bn1l,dM|4ainof tlw Holy Bood.iB 
the parish church of Stirling ; of Bull to Ifalcolm Fleming ; and of Fleoung to the 
maf^stratas cf Stirling, of the site of the Tolbooth ; and an agreement between the ma- 
gisMes and the Abbey of Dunformline, of wUch the churdi of Stilling held, of date 
lfi07 ; which aeam to ostaUidi the two foUowmg foots ; ¥{i. Ii<, that, aa eaily aa 14m 
there aisled, oo or near to the site of tiie present baOdfaig, a paririi dniNh, esDsd 
thecfaurehoftbeHoly Bood; gd, that tiie choir of thoBrsasnt bnOdiafcthrtiSi the 
East Chofch, deseribed aa the choir of tha Church of Stiriu^ waa In 1«I7 hi procesi 
of being erected. It is remaifcabkH too^ that in' none of tlieae doonments Is tiwre the 
aligbteet reforence to any connactiop between any of these andeni bnildings and any 
eonvent of friars, Uack or gray. The Church or the Dominican Convent In Sprmg- 
Oarden, however, does appear from other documents to have been at an eariierpefiod, 
that Is, in the fourteenth century, used by the inhabitants aa a parish diurch. 

October 184L 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE COUNTY OF STIRLING. 



The name of this county first appears in the Rotuli Scotice about 
1*296, under the form of Stryvelyn, or Stryveline, or Stryveling. 
Boethius (Lib. x. p. 204) pretends that Sterling money derives its 
name from Stirling, because Osbert, a Saxon prince, after the 
overthrow of the Scots, established a mint here. This, however, 
is a mistake, as it is well-known that Sterling money derives its 
name from the merchants of the Easterlings, who first taught ihe 
people of the west to transact money matters in a business-like 
manner. 

It is worthy of remark that this county, situated upon the con- 
fines of no less than four kingdoms, having the Northumbrian and 
Cumbrian dominions on the south, and those of the Scots and the 
Picts on the north, was for ages a field of much contention and 
bloodshed ; the castle of Stirling alternately coming into the pos- 
session of the strongest and the bravest for the time. Buchanan 
terms it Sterlinum. Probably Grose, in hLs Antiquities, is right 
when he derives the ancient name Stryvelyn from the Scots word 
to strive. The old burgh seal of Stirling has on one side of it a 
cross and a bridge with this motto, ^* Hie armis Bruti, Scoti stant 
hoc cruce tuti ;" on the reverse, a fortalice surrounded with trees, 
with the following motto, ^^ Continent hoc nemus et castrum Stre- 
velense." Another seal has a wolf upon a rock, with ^* oppidum 
Sterlini." This important county is, in its greatest length, 45 
miles, and in its extreme breadth 18 miles. It is bounded on the 
north by Perthshire, and part of Clackmannanshire; on the west 
by Argyleshire; on the south by Dumbartonshire and Lanarkshire ; 
and on the east by the county of Linlithgow. 

Its area comprehends about 489 square miles, or 312,960 acres, 
of which about 200,000 are cultivated, 50,000uncultivated, and 
62,960 unproductive. This is exclusive of the parish of Alva, 
which, since the beginning of the seventeenth century, has been 
attached to Stirlingshire, although upwards of four miles distant 



4b2 GVNEBAL OBSERVATIONS 

from the nearest point of that county, it heing surroanded on all 
sides by the shire of Clackmannan, except on the north, where it is 
bounded by a part of Perthshire. Since the passing rf the Re- 
form Bill, Aha has been politically incorporated with Clackman- 
nan ; but for judicial purposes, it is sdll connected with the county 
of Stirling. The most striking feature of thb portion rf the coun- 
ty is the Ochil range of hills, generally termed here the Alfa 
hills. These hills are chiefly composed of trap» of which the 
prevailing sorts are clinkstone, amygdaloid, and porphyry. Basalt 
is sometimes visible, and greenstone very rarely. The mineral 
treasures of the Ochils lie chiefly on their southern side, in Qack- 
mannan and SUrlingshires. The most remarkable of these are the 
silver ore of Alva and copper ore of Airthly, both at one time fur- 
nishing materials to the Scottish royal mint, and cobalt ore, prefs- 
lent in both places. The zeolites, agates, jaspers, and the Ochil 
eye pearl are too well-known to require description. A very in- 
teresting portion of the geology of Stirlingshire is to be found near 
Loch Lomond, and the most striking feature of the district here 
is the lofty Ben. Lomond, which, viewed from certain positions, 
presents a noble and majestic appearance, rising to the he^t of 
8S00 feet. This hill is composed chiefly of mica-slate, oocai^onal- 
ly passing into talc slat^ intermixed with beds of felspar, porphyry, 
and greenstone^ lying in a position conform with the strata of the 
including rock. Dr Macknight remarks, that in this species of 
mica-sliite^ there is much quartz, particularly towards the sum- 
mit of the mountain, the rocks appear remarkably penetrated 
and traversed by that substance, in veins and masses of every size 
and form. Indeed, it is found to be the prevailing ingredient 
throughout the whole formation, and often gives the mica- 
slate a whitish colour, resembling at a distance that of pure quarti. 
I did not, however, observe quarts in regular beds. To the north, 
the mountain has a great precipice, inclining considerably to the 
east, which is very rude and awful. Its peculiar position on the 
edge of the Highlands, skirted as it is by a magnificent sheet of 
water, renders it a peculiarly striking object. A more foil descrip- 
tion of the whole will be found in Mr Patrick's account of Dum- 
bartonshire, contained in this work. A great stripe of greywacke, 
a contmuation of that which runs through Dumbartonshire, also 
runs through the western border of the county. The other par- 
ticulars respecting the Geology of Stiriingshire will be found pretty 
accurately detailed in the several Accounts of the parishes. 



ON THE COUNTY OF STIRLING. « 453 

The Civil History of this shire forms a portion of the history of 
Scotlaod, and is so intimately connected with it, that it would be 
almost superfluous to treat of it in a local Account such as this. 
The position of Stirling Castle, amidst extensive marshes, and 
near to the banks of the river Forth, put it into so peculiar a po- 
sition, that it became, in a great measure, the key between the 
north and south of Scotland ; and it became difficult for moving 
armies to pass from the one to the other, without approaching this 
the most noted of Scotland's battle-fields. It was not, however, 
till the time of the Stewarts, that Stirling became a royal resi- 
dence, and it is from that period, that its history assumes a truly 
national character. 

The Agriculture, the nature of the soil, and the various pro- 
ducts which it yields, are very fully detailed in the Accounts of the 
parishes themselves. 

The county is divided into 25 parishes. The valued rent in 
1674 was L.108^509 Scots. The annual value of real property, 
as assessed in 1815, was L 218^761 Sterling. The population in 
1831 was 72,621; the inhabited houses, 10,450; the families, 
15,351. The Parliamentary constituency in 1839 was 2320. The 
only royal burgh in the county is Stirling, situated about 25 miles 
north-west of Edinburgh. There are, however, several towns and 
villages of considerable consequence in it, such as Falkirk, St Ni- 
nians, Larbert, Kippen, Kilsyth, Airth, Buchlyvie, Campsie, and 
Killearn. The county of Stirling is watered by the Forth, the 
Teith, and the Carron, besides several smaller streams. 



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INDEX. 



Abbey Craig Rock, the, 220 

Abbey Town Bridge, 281 

Abercromby, Sir Ralph, 227 

Academies, see Education 

Agricultural and rural economy, 14, 44, 
54, 68, 83. 95, 108, 125, 157, 172, 
185, 196, 202, 212, 229, 248, 268, 277, 
284, 296, 326, 371, 383, 428 

Agricultural Society, the Stirlingshire, 17 

Allan river, 216 

Almond, castle of, 211 

Alva, parish of, 175 — hills of, 176— vil- 
lage of, 182— house of, 182 

Antiquities, 11,51, 82, 106, 121, 152, 
171, 183, 195, 227, 243, 268. 322, 
357 

Archer's Club, the Denny, 123 

Ardinning loch, 73 

Argyle house, 423 

Arthur's Oon, 357 

Athenaeum, the Stirling, 426 

Auchinlillylin spout, 18 

Avon, the river, 206, 275 

Bainsford, village of, 23 

Baldemock, parish of, 169 — civil history 
of, 171 

Balfron, parish of, 288— villnge of. 289 
— civil history of, 289 — character of 
its inhabitants, 296 — mii^cellaneous ob- 
servations on, 302 

Balglas, the corrie of, 61 

Ballagan, the spout of, 73 

Ballandalloch cotton-workF, 293 

Ballat, the bog of, 99 

Ballenbriech, 210 

Ballewan spring, 73 

Ballingeich road, 399 

Ballinkinniin river, the, 62 — quarry of, 
62 

Ballocbleam, battle of, 52 

Banknock, 119 

Banks savings — Strathblane, 88 — Dry- 
men, 113— Kilsyth, 165— Polmont, 
199— Logie, 233— Airtli,(286 

Bannockbnrn carpet manufactory, 332 — 
battle of, 403 

Bantaskine house, 1 '3 

Bardowie foir, 175 

Belfrage, Henry, D. D, iO 

Benlomond, 90 

Benlui, 90 

STIRLING. 



Bennetson, village of,^196 
Black lochs, the great and little, 275 
Blair Logie, village of, 231 
Blane, the river, 60 
Bleachfields, 82, 86, 255 
Bonnybridge, village of, j22 

Bonnymuir, battle of, 8— saw-mill, 19— 

distillery, 20 
Bonnywater river, 3 
Boquhan, the burn of, 48, 265 
Botany, 41, 75, 102, 147, 181, 194, 210, 

224. 238, 266, 3)4, 398 
Bothkcnnar, parish of, 20I~dviI histo- 
ry of, 201 — miscellaneous observa- 

tions on, 205 
Bridge of Allan, village of, 231 
Broich bum, 265 
Bruce, Robert of Kinnaird, 349 
Buchanan, George, the poet, 65, 415 
Buchanan, parish of, 89 — civil history of, 

92 — miscellaneous observations on, 98 
Bums, the Rev. James, 10 
Callendar, family of, 5 — house, 12 
Cambuskcuneth Abbey, 425 
Caroelon, village of, 23 
Campsie, parish of, 234— glens, 235 

character of its inhabitants, 2-18 
Canals, the Forth and Clyde, 24 the 

Union, 32 
Carbeth, loch of, 73 
Carbrook house, 382 
Camock river, the, 62 
Carron, the river, 3, 39, 307— works, 

the, 373— Shore village, 203, 342 
Castle, Sir John de Giaham's, 42, 322 
Castlecary, 11, — saw-mill, 19 
Castlerankine burn, 117 
Cauldron Linn, the, 176 
Causewayhead, village of, 231 
Cave, the Covenanter's, 152 
Chapel-bum, the, 342 
Chartreshall distillery, 332 
Chonan nish, 90 
Churches and chapelii — Established, see 

Ecclesiastical statistics — Dissenting, 

see Dissenters 
Clachan bleachfield, the, 255 
Clarkstone house, 195 
Climate and meteorology, 2, 48, 72, 10 1, 

141, 178, 191, 215,236, 264, 306, 

341, 391 

G ^ 
o 



456 



STIRLINGSHIRE. 



Coals, 144, 180,208,241, 257, 310, 331. 
344 

Colzium castle, 152 

Communication, means of, 31, 46, 56, 
86. 1 10, 173, 197, 203, 231, 258,270, 
333, 376, 432 
Conichill, 90 

Coulter loch, 307 • 

Cowan's hospital, 423, 444 
Craigallion loch, 73 
Craigend house, 82 
Craigmaddic loch, 73 
Craigmill village, 231 
Curling club, the Denny, 123 
Cuttyfield village, 875 
Dprrach hill, the, 116 
Demyat peak, 215' 

Denny, parish of, 115 — civil history of, 
120 — character of its inhabitants, 125 
— farmer's club, 127 — town of, 131 
— rainiHters of, since the Revolution, 
134 — library, 135 — ploughman's so- 
ciety, 135 — horticultural society, 135 
Denovan printfield, 384 — friendly socie- 
ty, 135— village of, 385 
Devon, the river, 176 
Dispensary, the Stirling, 445 
Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 30, 
34, 46. 57, 112, 122, 133, 190, 203, 
260. 271, 336, 376, 439 
DistUlcries, 20, 46, 123, 130, 332 
Down knoll, the, 41 
Drummond, family of, 103 
Drymen, parish of, 99 — civil history of, 
103 — character of its inhabitants, 107 
—village of, 110 
Duchray, the river, 101 — castle of, 102 
Duke Hamilton's en>j:agc'ment, 410 
Dumbroch, loch ui', 73 — bleachfiekl of, 

82 
Dunglas, hill of, 72 
Dungoiat'h hill, 72 

Dunipace, parish of, 379— civil histoiy 
of, 380— estate of, 382— farnjer's so'- 
ciety, 386 
Duntreatli, castle of, 81 
Earl's seat, the, 72— burn, 131 
Ecclesiastical statistics, 29, 33, 46, 50, 
70,87, 97, 111, 132, 100, 174, 188, 

198, 203, 213, 231, 258. 270, 285, 
297, 334, 370, 387, 433 

Edmonstonc of Duntreatb, family of, 77 

Educiition, statistics of, 30, 35, 40, 58, 

70, 87, 98, 112, 135, 164, 174, 190. 

199, 204, 213, 232, 201, 271, 279, 
280, 299, 337, 370, 380, 440 

Ellrig loch, 275 

tndrick river, the, 39, 101— struth, 100 
Erskine, the Rev. Khenezer, 420 
Fairs, 37, 88. 110, 138, 175, 204, 272, 

287, 339, 377, 432 
Fdlkirk, parish of, \ — civW \v.l^\.OT^ o^, \ 



— horticultural and agricultunl lode- 
ties of, 17 — iron- works, 17 — town of, 
20 — church of, 33 — miscellaneous ob- 
servations on, 37 
Fankerton, village of, 132 
Farmer's club, the Denny, 127 
Farmer's society, the Strathblane, 86 
Fechtin Foord, 212 
Finglen, the, 235— bum of, 236 
Finnich Malice estate, 109 
Fintry, parish of, 38 — hills of, 40 — d\i\ 

history of, 42 — cotton factory, 45 
Fishery, the Stirling salmon, 430 
Fishes, 41, 50, 275, did, 331 
Forbes, William, Esq. of Callendar, 120 
Forth, the river, 48, 101, 264. 306, 896 
Gargunnock, parish of, 48 — the peel of, 
51 — miscellaneous observations on, 
59 
Carrel, hill of, 140 — glen quarry, 142 
Garvald mills, 127 

Geology and mineralogy, 3. 40, 49, 74, 
91, 170, 178, 192,201,219,239,263, 
281, 289, 307, 343, 397 
Glazert, the river, 236 
Giencaim. Earl of, 291 
Glenmill bleachficld, 255 
Gonachan, burn of, 40 
Goodie's knowie, 325 
Graham, David, Esq. uf Meiklewood, 51 
Graham, Sir John, 317 
Graham's dyke, 4, 195 
Grahamston, battle of, 4 — pyroligneous 

acid works, 19 
Grangeburn, the, 3 
Grangemouth, town of, 24 
Gregor, the clan, 93 
Guthrie, the Rev. James, 417 
Hags, village of, 132 — friendly societv, 

135 
Haining quarry, 208 
Hamilton, Miss, authoress of the Cot- 

Uigers of Glenburnie, 317 
Harvey, iMr, the painter, 317 
Heart's hill, 325 

Herbertshire pai)ermill, 123, 127 — 
friendly society, 135 — castle, SH\— * 
village, 385 
HoUock burn, the, 206 
Horticultural society, the Falkirk, 17 
Hume, the Rev. Alexander, 226 
Hurly-Huaky, the, 403 
Husbandry, systems of, 14, 44, 54, 1C>^, 

197, 229, 251, 209, 284, 372 
Inchcaileoch, island of, 90 
' Inchmurrin, island of, 90 
j Inns and alehouses, and their effects. 37, 
47, 59, m, 115, 175, 200, 204, 214, 
! 272, 287, 339, 447 
] Ironstone, 144, 346 
Johnston, James, Esq. of Alva bouse. 
V90 



INDEX. 



457 



Keir bill, 51 
Kelvin, the river, 145 
Keree house, 12 

Killearn, parish of, 60 — civil history of, 
64 — mansion-house, 66 — character of 
its inhabitants, 67^miscellaneous ob- 
servations on, 70 
KUsytb, parish of, ldd>-bills of, 140— 
civil history of, 148 — rcnvals in, 149 
— character of its inhabitants, 156 — 
town of, 159 — miscellaneous observa- 
tions on, 168 

Kincaid bleachfield, 255 

Kings park, the, S91— knot, the, 406 

Kippen, parish of, 264 — character of its 
inhabitants, 267 — miscellaneous ob- 
servations on, 272 

Kirk o' Muir, the, 323 

Kirkton glen, 235— burn, 236 

Kitty-fristy wall, 147 

Knowhead spade manufactory, 130 

Land, rent of, 44, 54, 68, 84, 108, 125, 
153, 172, 186. 197, 202, 229, 250, 
269, 275, 284, 328, 383, 428 

Larbert, parish of, 340 — character of its 
inhabitants, 365 — miscellaneous obser. 
vations on, 378 

Laurieston, village of, 23 

Lennox hills, the, 49 — castle, 244 — fa- 
mUy of, 246— printtield, 254 

Lennoxtown, village of, 259 

Leven, the river, 91 

Libraries and literature, 31, 35, 47* 58, 
88, 113, 135, 166, 199,213,233, 263, 
271, 286, 299, 337, 376, 443 

Light-water, bum of, 4 

Lilly-bum printfield, 255 

Linlithgow bridge, 211 

Linn, Gilmour-s, 307 — the cauldron, 176 

Livingstone, iaraily of, 8 

Loan bead, village of, 132 

Lochleggan, lake of, 265 

Lochlomond, 90 

Logie, parish of, 214 — civil history of, 
225 — character of its inhabitants, 228 

Loup of Fin try, the, 37 

Maimel burn, the, 206 

Manor ford, 222 

Manuelrig quarry, 208 

Manufactures, 17, 45, 70. 85, 96, 123, 
127, 187, 230, 254, 292, 332, 372, 
384,430 

Markets, see Fairs 

Meikleben hill, 140 

Menstrie, village of, 230 

Middlerig colliery, the, 193 

Millfield house, 195 

Mine house, the, 222 

Mineralogy, see Geology 

Miscellaneous observations, 37, 59, 70, 
98, 168, 205, 272, 279, 287, 302, 378, 
449 
Moir, Alexander, E^q. of Leckie, 51 



Monteatb, the strath of, 40 
Montrose, family of, 64, 93 
Mote hiU, the, 403 
Muckle Bin, the, 118 
Mugdoch, loch of, 73 
Muiravonside, parish of, 205— civil his^ 
tory of, 210 — miscellaneous observa- 
tions on, 214 
Nail manufactories, 18, 332 
Napier, Commodore Charles, 10 — of 

Edinbelly, 291 
Newck house, 283 , 

Parochial registers, 11, 43, 51, 81, 105, 
121, 171, 195, 227, 247, 267. 276, 
283, 292, 318, 357, 422 
Paterson, the Rev. John Brown, 10 
Plane mill, tower of, 363 
Plantations and planting, 14, 29, 63, 68, 
75, 84, 96, 102, 125. 147, 177, 215, 
225, 254, 266, 282, 314, 347 
Polmont, parish of, 191 — civil history 

of, 196, park, 195 
Popubition returns, 13, 43, 53, 66, 83, 
94, 106, 123, 156, 171, 184, 195,202, 
212, 228, 247, 268, 276, 283, 295, 325, 
364, 383, 427 
Powfoulis house, 283 
Prisons, 37, 446 

Produce, average annual, 68, 85, 97, 126, 
172, 186, 197, 202, 213, 230, 269, 
277, 285, 430 
Pu*, the river, 236 
Quarries, 19, 62, 85, 126, 142,208,285, 

330, 385, 429 
Quarter house, 3S2 
Railways, 33, 333 
Redding colliery, 193— village, 196 
Reptiles, 313 
Revivals in Kilsyth, 149 
Rivers and >vaters, 3, 39, 49, 61, 73, 90, 
101, 117, 145, 236, 275, 281, 306, 
342, 394 
Rough castle, 1 1 
Rumbling bridj2:e, the, 176 
Rundolph, field of, 324 
Sandyford, burn of, 206 
Saucbie, burn of, 5 — battle of, 316^ 

house of, 323 
School of Arts— Falkirk, 35— Stiriing, 

443 
Shielhill colliery, 193 
Shipping, 20, 26, 432 
Simpson, Francis, Esq. of East Plean, 

337 
Slamanan, parish of, 273 — miscellane- 

ous observations un, 279 
Societies, 17, 87, 135, 166, 198, 258, 

286, 377, 386 
Spittal's Hospital, 444 
Stewart, Henry Seton, Esq. ofTouch,5l 
Stirling, John, Esq. of Gargunnockj 51 
Stirling, parish of, 390— castle of^ aOtt 



458 



STIRLINGSHIRE. 



— burgb of, 41 1 — port of, 432 — minifi. 
ten of, 435-— ^ubitcription library, 44S 
— jail, 446 — miacellaneouB observa- 
tions on, 44d — general obaenrations on 
the county of, 451 

Stratbblane, parish of, 71— bills of, 71 
— civil history of, 76 — fanner's society, 
86 

St Mirron's spring, 147 

St Ninians, parish of, 30S-.civil history 
of, dl5^vUlage of, 333— weU of, 384 

St Vilarin's well, 102 

Symington, Mr, of Wanlockhead mines, 
10 

Taroaree mills, 127 

Temperance society, the Stratbblane, 87 

Throsk brick and tile-work, 332 

Torwood-head, 362 — castle, 381 ^ vil- 
bigeof, 385 



Towns and viUages, 20, 22, 56. 110, 112, . 

182. 196, 203, 280, 333, 375. 385 
Trees, remarkable, 76, 92, 267, 348 
Ure, Mr, of Shirgarton, 267 
Vault, Lady Kilsyth's, 152 
Wages, rates o^ 14, 44,54,85, 108, 186, 

)97, 202, 229, 252, 269, 284, 29a, 

297,332,429 
Walker, James, Esq. 10 
Walbce's stone, 196 
Wanzie chasm, 62 
Wedge draining, 54, 329 
Wellshot spring, 147 
Wilson, James, D. D., 9 
Woodhill, 182 
Zetland, the Eail of, 201 
Zoology, 41, 50, 75, 91, 180, 194, 209, 

524,237,282,311,398 



PRINTED BY JOHX 5>TARK, 
OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDIKRURGH 



CLACKMANNAN. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE I 
ALLOA, 121 

CLACKMANNAN, ' 76 

DOLLAR, • 66 

TILLICOULTRY, • ' * * 



PARISH OF ALLOA. * 

PRESBYTERY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. PETER BROTHERSTON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Namcy Boundaries^ Sfc. — The name has been variously spelled 

at different periods. In the charter granted by King Robert I. 

in the year 1315, to Thomas de Erskyne, it is called Alway ; iu 

some subsequent ones, Aulway, Auleway ; and more recently Al- 

loway. " In ancient Gothic," says the late Rev. Dr Jamieson, 

" al signifies water; and aull^ gurges Jluminis et profundiora loca 

maris. Thus aullwaeg would signify the way to the sea, or the- 

sea-way." This seems to be the most probable etymology of the 

name, f 

• Drawn up by Mr William Brodie, Schoolmaster of Altoa. 

t See Dr Jamieson*8 Illustrations of Slcxer*8 Theatrum Scotie, folio, first published 
in 1693, reprinted in 1814, also in 1718, and 1719. 

The very respectable writers of the former Statistical Account supposed Alloa to 
be the Alanna of the Romans, which opinion is supported by Camden and others. 
Tlicy also suggested that the name may have been derived from the Greek word 
AXara, a rural feast of the Athenians, which was adopted by the Romans, and an- 
swered to our harvest home. (See Old Statistical Account, Vol. viii. p. 5913, note.) 
Kennedy in the notes to his Glen Ochcl, a poem, ( VoL i. p. 805,) gives, as the de- 
rivation of the name, three Gaelic words, signifying the itcepy bank by the itiU" 
dicing ttream^^-^ description which does not apply to the banks of the Forth, at 
least in this parish. A dififerent etymology was proposed by an eminent Celtic scho- 
lar and antiquarian, the late venerable John Coventry, Esq. of Devonshaw. In 
the following extract of a letter to the writer of this article in August 1835, that gentle- 
man gave his opinion : — ** I would by no means have recourse to a Grecian restival 
for a name to Alloa, but would rather prefer a name alluding to Christianity, and 
would have more satisfaction in deriving it from the Celtic or Gaelic, the original 
language of Britain. Shaw, in his Dictionary, makes the word AUa to signify the 
Most High, and oigh to be the name for virgin ; literally, a church dedicated to the 
most high Virgin. You will recollect, that in those primitive times, the Catholics 
treated the Virgin Mary with ^eat veneration. It has occurred to me these many 
years, that Allaoigh is the origmal name of Alloa, and it has undergone so little va- 
riation, that it may still be easily traced. To illustrate the Celtic word oigh^ I must 
bring in an anecdote relative to the battle of Inverkeithing. When the battle was 
lost, the Highlanders fled to the Castle of Pitreavie as an asylum, invoking the Vir- 
gin for protection in their native words, oigh I oigh I Thc^ put their backs to the 
walls of the castle, and continued to protect themselves with their drawn swords, 
when the people within threw down stones from the bartizan, and killed the poor 
fellows. It was remarked in the country, that, from that day, the Wardlaws of Pit- 
reavie went like snow oft* a dike.*' 

CLACKMANNAN. A 



2 CLACRMANNANSUIRE. 

The parish consists of a town and a landward district, and ex- 
tends about 4 miles from east to west, by about 2 miles from north 
to south, and may contain 7^ square miles. 

It is bounded on the north by Alva and part of Clackmannan ; 
on the south, by the river Forth ; on the east, by Clackmannan 
and the Black Devon ; and, on the west, by the river Devon and 
parish of Logie. The town of Alloa is situated about a mile 
from the eastern extremity of the parish, in 56"* 7^ of north lati- 
tude, and 3"" 46' of west longitude from Greenwich. In the 
river, which is here 500 yards broad, and separates into two 
branches, there are two low islands called inches^ one of which, 
nearest the town, is a valuable farm of 80 acres. 

Topographical Apj)€ara7ices. — The figure of the parish is ex- 
ceedingly irregular, a section of Clackmannan parish penetrating 
it on the north side ; and the sinuosities of the Forth extend it, on 
the south side, to five and a-half miles in length. The low grounds, 
lying on the banks of the river, are of a fine fertile carse soiL 
The subsoil of part of it is a strong clay, fit for making bricks 
and tiles. The banks that arise from the carse, are mostly com- 
posed of gravel, with a fine loam near the surface. On the higher 
grounds, towards the north, the soil is thin, on a cold till bottom ; 
but by draining, of late years, it has been greatly improved. 
This parish contains no mountains or high hills ; but its finely 
diversified surface, its little hills and fertile valleys, form a richly 
varied landscape. From any of the eminences near the town, 
sc(?ncry is presented to the eye, almost unrivalled for picturesque 
beauty, if not for magnificence. To the eastward, embosomed 
in trees, is seen the ancient Tower of Alloa, from the summit of 
which, although situated on flat ground, part of nine counties can 
be discerned. About a furlong north-east of the Tower, on a 
gentle elevation, is the new and elegant mansion of the Earl of 
Mar and Kellle. Bevond Alloa Wood, Clackmannan Tower 
crowns the summit of the next rising ground; while, on either 
side of the expanding Firth, innumerable beauties arrest the at- 
tention in the rich vale below. On turning to the north and west, 
a panorama of no ordinary splendour meets the eye : on one side 
the lofty Ochils, bounding the view, and covered with verdure to 
their summits; on the other, the numerous windings of the river; 
Stirling, with its finely elevated castle ; and beyond, in the blue 
distance, the gigantic Benledi and Bcnlomond, with others of 
our Scottish Alps. 



ALLOA* 



5 



*' And, brightening all, the Forth, with gentle pride, 

Gliding &long the vernal- verdu red shore, 
Calm, clear, and mighty, deep and digni6ed, 

Constant as day, abundant as of yore ; 
So that the valley laughs to see his tide 
Lie in its lovely lap, and sport from side to side!" 

The Firth of Forth • and the adjacent scenery seem to have 
undergone little alteration, in their general outline at least, since 
they were described by Sir Robert Sibbald, about one hundred 
and thirty years ago, as follows : — 

** Tot campos, sylvas, tot regia tecta, tot hortos 
Artifici dcxtra excultos, tot vidimus arces, 
Ut nunc Ausonia, Fortha cum Tibride certet. 

Such fields, sueh woods, such stately piles appear. 
Such gardens grace the earth, such towers the air, 
That Forth with Roman Tiber may compare.** 

The height above the level of the Forth of some of the rising 
grounds of this parish was ascertained, by barometrical measure- 
ment, on the 5th October 1839, expressly for this Account, by 
Mr John Mackie, Mining-Engineer, F. G. S. Gartmorn Hill, 
the highest of these, is at the north-eastern extremity of this pa- 
rish, and is 890 feet. 

Meteorology, — The following is the result of observations made 
at Alloa, by means of a register-thermometer, during the year 
1822:— 



January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 





Temp. 


Temp. 


Aver. 




Temp. 


Temp. 


Aver. 




of the 


of the 


Temp. 




of the 


of the 


Temp. 




coldest 


warmest 


of the 




coldest 


warmest 


of the 




nights. 


nights. 


month. 




nights. 


nights. 


month. 


1, 

13. 


280 


47«1 


35.19 


August 1, 
21, 


40 


57 


! 


48 35 


12. 
15. 


30 


48 1 


3a42 


September 27. 
2, 


32 


55 


1 


4315 


7, 
80, 


29 


48} 


38.41 


October 24. 
31. 


35 


49 


< 


41.8 


20, 
2, 


29 


45 J 


365 


November 5. 
27, 


39 


48 


! 


43.1 


26, 
3, 

12, 

24, 
5. 

21. 


34 
43 
40 


5.1 


44.2 


December 14, 
24, 


25 


45 




34.14 


59 \ 

59 : 


50. 
48.7 


Average, 3J 


404 


614 




501.96 


3.660 51.160 


41.83 



From the above table it appears that the average of the coldest 
nights is 33.66°; that of the warmest, 51.16°; and the average 
for the year, 41.83. January, usually the coldest month, was re- 
marked, in 1822, as having put on a milder aspect; and many 
plants which flower late in^ autumn, and early in spring, were then 

• Fxorda^ Gothic, mouth of a river ;— whence Forth as wdl as^r /^— the latter 
sometimes spelled frith, and supposed^ to be derived from the Latin f return^ (a nar- 
row sea), a less probable etymology. 



C LACKM AN N ANSHIRE . 



blooming. The average temperature in January 1833 was only 

From observations regularly made by Alexander Bald, Esq. at 
Craigward Cottage, with a well-regulated thermometer at a north 
exposure, at 10 a. m. every day, from June 1837, it appears that 
the average temperature for the last six months of 1837, was 
dOf"; that of the whole of 1838^ 44^"^; and for the whole of 
1839, 45§J^ The average temperature of each month in 1838 
and 1839 was as under: — 



1888. 



January, 

February, 

March, 

April, 

May, 

June, 

July, 

August, 

September, 

October, 

November, 

December, 



2ai4 

27.23 

37.6 

42.13 

50.24 

56.15 

61.1 

58.17 

53.21 

46.27 

35.27 

35. 



1839. 



January, 


32.14 


February, 


35.6 


March, : 


37.9 


April, 


44.3 


May, 


51.16 


June, 


5a5 


July, 


59.8 


August, 


5a3 


September, 


5ai8 


October, 


4a26 


November, 


4a23 


December, . 


84.2 



The most generally prevailing winds, as well as storms, are firom 
the south-west ; and, although they frequently bring rain, they are 
always accompanied by a mild temperature. The least frequent 
are from the north and north-west The wind frequently blows 
from the east and north-east for some time in the spring, when it is 
usually dry and cold, — the westerly winds being generally mild 
and rainy. Considerably less rain falls here than on the high 
grounds towards the east and west, or in the more immediate 
neighbourhood of the Ochil hills, which are believed to attract 
and carry away the clouds from the vale of the Forth. 

The quantity of rain that fell here during 1838 and 1839, has 
been ascertained by a rain-gauge kept in Mr Bald's garden at 
Craigward Cottage, which is elevated only a few yards above the 
level of the Forth, and is as under: — 

1838. 1839. 



January, 


1.22 in. 


February, 


0.33 


March, 


4.5 


April, 


1.33 


May, 


27 


June, 


6.6 


July, 


3.1 


August, . 


4.3 


September, . 


3.4 


October, ; 


3.13 


November, 


2.19 


December, 

■ 


2.14 



January, 
February, 
March, . 


2.28 in. 

8.20 

3.6 


April, 

May, 

June, 


1.3 

1.12 

2.13 


July, 
August, 
September, 
October, 


3.10 
2. 

5.20 
3.12 


November, 


2.19 


December, 


a34 



35 



34.17 



ALLOA. 5 

'Prognostics of Weather. — The following signs of rain (from Dr 
Jenner's poem on that subject) are also observed here : — 

The walls are damp, the ditches smell ; 
Closed is the pink«eyed pimpernel. 
Loud quack the ducks, the sea- fowl cry ; 
The distant hills are looking nigh. 
Low o*er the grass the swallow wings ; 
The cricket, too, how loud it sings. 
The wind, unsteady, veers around. 
Or settling in the south is found. 
The whirling wind the dust obeys, 
And o*er the rapid eddy plays. 
The leech,* disturb'd, is newly risen, 
Quite to the summit of his prison. 

Climate. — The whole parish, although the greater part of it lies 

* A cheap weather-guide is a leech, in an eight ounce phial glass, three-fourths 
611ed with water, covered with a piece of linen rag, and kept in a cool place, the 
water being changed once a week in summer, and opce a fortnight in winter. In 
serene weather, and during frost, the leech lies at the bottom of Uie glass, rolled to* 
gether In a spiral form. Before rain or snow, it creeps to the top of its lodging, and 
there remains till the weather is settled. Before wind, it appears in rapid motion. 
Some time before thunder and rain, it remains almost constantly above the water, 
and appears in great uneasiness. 

Swallows fly close to the ground, not only before rain, but in continued fine 
weather, chiefly in the mornings and evenings, when the air is moister below than 
above; for then, the swallows folding no insects in the upper regions, confine tlieir 
flight to the lower. Insects, when tempted by a dry and comfortable state of the 
atmosphere, soar to the supernal regions, whither the swallows pursue them. Again , 
swallows, and especially swifts, are frequently to be seen flying in the midst of thun- 
der clouds. In foct, a good deal of nonsense has been written on the sutject of prog- 
nostications of the weather by animals, which has arisen chiefly from considering the 
dicta of inaccurate observers as sound. So much tar prognostics of the weather from 
atmospheric phenomena, and from animals. The following are a few of those from 
vegetables. 

In every nook and sheltered dell. 

Are faithful monitors, that teU 

How pass the hours and seasons by. 

Many species of flowers are admirable barometers. Convohtolut arvemU and C 
»epium (small and great bindweed), Anemone nemorota (wood anemone), and OxaHt 
acetoteUa (wood-sorrel), close on the approach of rain. Nymphcea alba (white water, 
lily), the most magnificent of our wild flowers, opens about seven in the morning, and 
closes about four in the afternoon. Arenaria (sandwort) opens about nine a. m. and 
shuts between two and three p. m. AnagaUU arvetiHs (scarlet pimpernel) is called 
the poor man*s weather glass, because it never expands its corolla in moist or rdiny 
weather, but opens, on fine days, at eight a. m. and closes at four p. m. Cichorium 
iniyhus (wild succory) opens and closes at same hours. Bellu perennU (the moun- 
tain-daisy) is open daily in fine weather. If Stellaria media (chickweed) folly ex- 
pands its flowers, no rain will happen for four hours or upwards. When it half con- 
ceals its miniature white flower, the day is generally showery ; but if it is entirely 
shut up, a continued rain may be expected. These are fiicts worth knowing, not 
merely to the naturalist, but to the traveller, the sportsman, the labourer, and indeed 
to every one who spends any part of his time in the fields. From a series of obser- 
vations on the precise time that the flowers of different plants open, expand, and shut, 
Linnams endeavoured to form a botanical time-piece by means of 46 different flowers. 
In his Philosophia BoUnica, (§. 83.7,) Linnaeus has divided the sdar flowers into 
Mrrf classes:— 1. Meteoric JUyufcrt^ which expand sooner or later, according to the 
cloudiness, moisture, or pressure of the atmosphere \ 2. Tropical flowert^ that open in 
the morning, and close before the evening ; becoming earlier or later, as the length of 
the day increases or decreases ; 3. Equinoctial Jhvert, which expand at a certain hour 
of the day, and for the most part close at another determinate hour. 



G CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

low, is considered to be very healthy ; and the town being situate 
ed by the side of a great river) where the regular flowing of the 
tide is attended by a strong current, damps are thereby cleared 
away, and the atmosphere rendered fresh and pure. The Firth 
of Forth, expanding eastward till it falls into the German Ocean, 
certainly contributes to moderate both .the summer's heat and 
winter's cold. The Ochil Hills, also, from their vicinity, give all 
this parish an advantage in regard to climate, by protecting it from 
the piercing north winds. There are no diseases peculiar to the 
town or parish. Fevers prevail at certain seasons, but they are 
seldom of a malisrnant nature, and are less fatal than in some of 
the neighbouring parishes. Agues, when the last Statistical Ac- 
count was written, were " scarcely ever heard of." 

Hydrography, — Welh. There are several spring-wells in the 
parish ; but their waters have never been carefully analyzed. 
Someof them have evident marks of being chalybeate, others hold in 
solution carbonate of lime, which harmless substance, although it 
occasions a degree of hardness, and renders the water unfit for 
washing and bleaching, does not make it less suitable for culinary 
purposes. Most of the wells belonging to private families in the 
town, are of this description. One of these wells or springs was 
within Alloa House, and is described in the former Statistical 
Account, as ^^ strongly impregnated with steel." At the east end 
of the town, is a spring of very pure water, apparently chalybeate, 
which, from time immemorial, has been called the King's well ; 
and at Tullibody is one of excellent water, the Lady's well, — a 
name coeval with the ciirly days of Popery. The town of Alloa 
is well supplied with excellent water, brought by pipes, at great 
expense, from Gartmorn Dam (of which afterwards), about thirty- 
five years ago. 

Rivers. — The River Forth, which rises at the eastern side of 
Ben Lomond, extends along the south side of the parish by a very 
circuitous course, a distance of four miles and a half to the west- 
ward of the town ; and about one mile to the eastward, where it 
ceases to be a river and becomes a firth.* At Alloa ferry, the 
river is about half a mile broad at high water, and it is navigable 
beyond Stirling, as far as the " Cruives" of Craigforth. ShipsofSOO 

• Dy an old Scotch Act of Parliament, the *' Pow" of Alloa, (so the act renders 
our word harbour), is between the river and the sea, as to the salmon* itching. Long 
has !>een the liiigation, and very great the expense of determining, U]K>n scientific prin- 
ciples, where the river ends and the sea begins in the river Tay and other rivers, fur 
regulating the kind of nets to be used in each of these divisions. 



ALLOA. 7 

tons burden come up as far as Alloa. The windings of the Forth, 
commonly termed " links," are very remarkable, and are well 
described by the old English poet, Drayton, in the foUowmg lines, 
applicable to another serpentine river : — 

Ouse, in measured gjrres, doth whirl herself about. 
That, this way, here, and there, back, forwardy in and out ; 
And* like a sportive nymph, oft doubling in her gait, 
In labyrinth-like turns, and twinings intricate, 
Through those rich fields doth run. 

The distance from the quay of Alloa to that of Stirling, measured 
in the middle of the stream, is about 16 miles, and to the old 
bridge of Stirling, nearly 20 miles ; whereas the distance by land 
between these towns does not exceed 7 miles by the turnpike-road, 
and is about 5 in a direct line. 

Tides, — The spring-tides at Alloa harbour rise about 22 feet, 
the neap-tides about 15 feet; and in the harbour there is about 
3 feet deeper water than in Leith harbour. It has been asserted, 
upon unquestionable authority, and from levels actually taken, that 
the top of the pier at Leith is upon a level with the bottom of the 
quay at Alloa. Hence, the level line of high-water, between Leith 
and Alloa, is an inclined plane, rising towards Alloa : Otherwise 
the town of Leith would be deeply flooded at full tide.* 

The Devon, or North Devon, rises in the parish of Blackford, 

There is a singular circumstance connected with the tides in this district. 
There are what are called the double or <* leaky tides,** chiefly observed at high and 
low water, during spring-tides. Their nature is this ; when the tide has' flowed ap- 
parently to its full height, it ebbs and flows downwards, until it has sunk from a foot 
to 15 inches perpendicularly. The flowing then returns, and frequently overflows 
the first flowing, above a foot in height, so that vessek which may have grounded in 
leaving Alloa harbour during the first tide, have floated off* freely with the second tide. 
Hence, it is a common question at Alloa harbour, when the spring-tides begin to ebb, 
**' Is the tide away for all tides ?" A similar ebbing and flowing takes place at low 
water during the spring-tides. This singular phenomenon has not been thoroughly 
investigated in a philosophical manner ; but the apparent cause is the very narrow 
part of the river at Quecnsferry, with the sudden great expanse of the north and south 
shores, both above and below that point. 

These <' leaky tides** were taken notice of by Sir Robert Slbbald in his History of 
Fife and Kinross, in which is inserted an interesting letter respecting them, (with- 
out date), by the Rev. Alexander Wright, then minister of Alloa. 

There is a curious traditionary and superstitious account of these double tides,— 
which is, that when St Mungo, tlie tutelary saint of the district, was proceeding in a ves- 
sel with some of his ecclesiastics to Stirling, the vessel ran a-ground and could not be 
got off*, from the £illing of the tide; that while he and his friends ardently wished for 
the return of the tide, it did return with an overflow, so that the saint proceeded 
upon hb mission, and the double tides have returned periodically ever since. 

A somewhat similar phenomenon occurs at Southampton and Portsmouth, where 
there is a kind of " double tide*' every time the sea flows, owing to the Isle of AViglit, 
which is opposite to them ; for when the first tide is, the flow comes in by a place 
called the Needles, at the west end of it, — and by the time it goes round the island, 
it is beginning to ©bb ; so when it comes to St Helen's at the east end of it, this 
makes a kind of second tide, though not so high as the first, unless a strong wind 
comes along with it. 



S CLACKMANNAN8H1BE. 

ill the county of Pertli, and, de&cendiog with impetuosity from 
the Ochils, where its course is to the east, till it reaches the 
Crook of Devon, in the parish of Fossaway ; it there makes a very 
acute turn towards the west, and proceeding placidly in that di- 
rection through a highly picturesque and beautiful vale, often de- 
nominated the Arcadia of Scotland, falls into the Forth at the 
village of Cambus, about two miles west from the town of Alloa. 
Exclusive of its windings, the course of this river is more thao 
twenty-six miles, though the distance in a direct line from its 
source to its embouchure^ (directly north from, and opposite to its 
source), does not exceed six miles. Its whole course is famed for 
its beauty and fertility ; for it flows, *' arva inter, nemorisque 
umbras, et pascua Iseta/' The Black Devon, or South Devon, 
which forms part of the boundary of this parish to the eastward, has 
its source among the Saline hills in the county of Fife. It flows 
westward, in a direction nearly parallel to the north Devon, and 
fells into the Firth of Forth opposite Clackmannan. In dry sea- 
sons, it is a small stream, most of its waters being then collected 
in dams or reservoirs, for the supply of mills and other machinery. 
Gartmorti Dam. — Nearly 140 years ago, the celebrated John, 
Earl of Mar, who had a great mechanical turn, and attended much 
to the improvement of hydraulic machinery (the steam-engine not 
having been then brought forward,) caused a strong dam-head to 
be thrown across the Black Devon, at Forest-Mill, in the parish 
of Clackmannan, by which he raised the bed of this river, 16 feet 
higher. From the top of this dam-head, he carried an aqueduct 
westward, about four miles, which carried the water into Gartmorn 
dam, perhaps the largest artificial lake in Scotland, covering, 
when full, above 160 imperial acres.. It is about 160 feet above 
the level of the Forth, and 92 feet above Alloa. In some places, it 
is 36 or 37 feet deep, being sufficient to carry a seventy-four gun 
ship. Prior to 1785, only a temporary dike existed. A dam- 
head was then built of hewn stone, measuring upwards of 320 
yards, at an expense of several thousand pounds. In the year 
1827, this embankment threatened to give way, in which case, it 
would have swept away, with the torrent of its waters, all the 
lower part of the town lying in its course. It then underwent a 
complete repair, by Mr John Craich, the present manager of the 
colliery, at an expense of only L.300 ; whereas, in the opinion of 
a celebrated engineer, the sum necessary for performing the work 
eilectually would bo L.3500. This lake is situated at the north* 



ALLOA. 9 

east extremity of the parish, about two miles from Alloa. Its 
waters form a permaDent supply for driving the Hydraulic machi- 
nery of the Alloa colliery, and the water-wheels of various manu- 
factories. The temperature of the water, at the depth of 15 feet, 
was 62*^ Fahr. and of the air 61^ on 10th September 1836, at 
four o'clock F. M. 

Zoology — Mammalia. — The wild animals of this class which 
have been found in this parish, and the adjoining Firth, are the 
following : 

Scotophelus muriiius Martes Foina Arvioola agrestis 

Pleootus auritus Lutra ▼ulgaris Lepus timidus 
Krinaceus £uropaBii8(l.) Vulpes vulgaris Cuniculus 

Sorex araneus Sciurus vulgaris (3.) Cerrtu Caprcolus(6) 

fodicns Mus rattus Phoca vitulina 

Talpa Europaea (2. ) decumanus (4.) Phocoena communis (7. ) 

Meles Taxus musculus Rorqualis Borealis (8.) 

Mustela putorius sylvaticus Phocena Grampus 

£rminea messorius (5.) Globioephalus deductor(9.) 

vulgaris Arvicola amphibia Beluga leucas (10.) 

(L) The hedgehog was not known as an inhabitant of this pariah when the last Ac- 
count was written. It is now found in the woods. This innocent, although pro- 
scribed animal, has been most absurdly accused, of sucking cows. It feeds altogether 
upon slugs, beetles, cockchafers, and other insects, which are extremely injurious to 
the agriculturist, both in their larva and perfect state. / 

(2.) Worms and slugs, &c. are the food of the mole ; and, although in its mining 
process, it undoubtedly overturns many growing plants, yet it is probably, upon the 
whole, more useful than injurious to man, wherever it exists in this parish. 

(3.) The squirrel, which was also unknown here when the last Account was vrritten, 
is now numerous in the woods. This nimble and elegant animal has been lately 
accused by a certain author of destroying the small birds. Tliis must be a mistake ; 
for it lives entirely on v^etable food, and is particularly fond of nuts and acoma. 
When feeding, it sits erect, and uses its fore-feet like hands. It is a curious circum- 
stance, and not generally known, that most of those oaks^ which are called sponta- 
neous, are planted by the squirrel, which thus performs the most essential service to 
the British navy. 

(4.) The brown or Norway rat (originally from Asia in 1750) is too numerous 
throughout the parish. It is said by some naturalists, but without sufficient evidence, 
to have nearly extirpated the original British, or black rat, which is very seldom seen 
here. 

(5.) This is the smallest of British quadrupeds, measuring only 2^ inches, from the 
nose to the tail, and weighing not more than one-sixth of an ounce. 

(6.) Roe-deer are not mentioned among the wild animals in the Old Statistical Ac- 
count ; but have been seen occasionally, for more than thirty years, in Tullibody 
woods. They are more rarely observed of late years. 

(7.) Porpoises and seals are constant inhabitants of the Firth here. The former not 
only destroy the salmon, but prevent th<»n from entering the river. The latter are 
also equally inveterate and destructive enemies of the herring. 

(8.) One of this species.in 1808, ran itself ashore on the banks of the Forth, between 
Alloa and Cambus.. where it was discovered by two ploughmen, who endeavoured for 
a long time to kill it with their knives, but without efl^t, the animal at the same 
time making dreadful exertions to get away. At last a surgeon pointed out the mor- 
tal part, — and, by applying a spit, they soon effected their purpose. ^ 

(9.) On the 7th of October 1814, a number of large animals of the cetaceous order 
were discovered in the Firth of Forth, opposite Tullibody House. The late Joha 
Muubray, Esq. of Cambus, having ordered out all the boats in that place, which 
were manned by his servants, he went out, accompanied by Mr Dick, officer of ex- 
cise, to attack them. They killed seven, and succeeded in driving eight more up 
the Devon to shallow water, where they also were killed. Two were killed a little 



10 



CLACRMANNANSUIR E. 



way off by some of Lord Abercrombj*8 tenaot% and other two went up^ before i 
steam-boat to Stirling, where they shared the same fate. On examination, they 
appeared to be a species of the grampus, and seemed to agree with those described 
by Dr Patrick NeiU, to which the islanders of Orkney and Shetland give the namt 
of the ca'iii^ xtfuiUt having several marks to distinguish them from the common gram- 
pus. They were from 15 to 21 feet long, and from 10 to 14 feet in cimimferraoe. 

(10.) A stray individual of this singular species of small whale had been for some 
time obser^'ed passing up and down the I'lrth of Forth, its fine white colour reodo*' 
ing it very remarkable. In June 1815, it was killed by the salmon^fishers, by means of 
spears and fire-arms ; and was purchased by Robert Bald, Esq. Alloa* who transmitted 
it to Bailie Robert Johnstone, Edinburgh, who presented it to Professor Jameson for the 
Royal Museum. It was exhibited on the Calton Hill for behoof of the poor, wbcs 
L. 40 were drawn. The skeleton was for some years in Dr Barclay *s MuKum, and 
he lectured on the anatomy of the whale while it was on the Calton HilL The staf- 
fed skin is now in the Royal Museum at Edinburgh. Those larger Tisttors are fboad 
in this river more frequently than in others farther to the north, the entrances of 
which are less extended, and more interrupted by banks and bars. The salmon, oa 
the other hand, as if instinctively to avoid their enemies, are more abondant in the 
confined estuaries. 

Birds, — The following list comprehends the aiore uncommoD 
birds, known either as permanent residents, or temporary visitants 
of this parish : 



Lano Bians. 
Milvus vulgaris 
Faico pcrcgrinus 
Butco nisus 
Circus cyaiicus 
Strix fiammead.) 

stridula 
Otus vulgaris 
Fhasianus Colchicus 

torquatus (2.) 
Columba turtur 
Coturnix vulgaris 
Motacilla alba 
flava 
boarula 
Carduelis aurata 
Linaria spin us 
Pyrrhula vulgaris 
Sturnus vulgaris, (3.) 
Mcrula iliaca . 
pilaris 
torquata 
Phoonicura rusticola 
Emberiza Schccniculus 

miliaria 
Plectrophancs nivalis 
Lanius excubitar 
Loxia curvirostra 
Bombycilla I3ohemica(4.) 



Sylvia sibilatrix 
Rcgulus auricapillus 
Alcedo ispida 
Curruca atricapilla 
Aiauda arborea 
Saxicola rubetra 
rubecula 
oenanthc 
Parus camileus 

ater 

caudatus 
Yunx torquilla 
Certhia familiaris 

Waders and Water« 
Birds. 
Ardea cincrca (5. ) 
Squatarola cinerea 
Vanellus cristatus 
Charadrius pluvialis 
morincllus 
biaticula 
Rissa cinerea 
Numenius arquata 
Scolopax rusticola 
g^Ilinago 
gnllinula 
Limosa rufa 
Tringa Canutus 



Arenaria ealidris 
Totanus bypoleneoa 

ochropus 

glottis 

ealidris 
Rallus aquaticus 
Crex poraana 

Cinclus aquaticus 
Uria Troile 
Fulica atra 
Mergus merganser 

albellus 
Cygnus fcrus 
Pbalacrocorax > . 
or Pelecanus { 
Col ym bus subcristatus 
Clangula chrysophthalmo 
Tadurna Bellonii 
Spathalea clypcata 
Anas palustris 

Boschas 

acuta 

Penelope 

Crccca 

querquedula. 



(1.) " If this usefiil bird," says Mr Waterton, "caught its food by day, instead of 
hunting for it by night, mankind would have ocular demonstration of its utility in 
thinnijig the country of mice, and it would be protected and encouraged everywhere. 
It would be with us what the Ibis was with the Egyptians." They are found in va- 
rious p.rts of the parish, and sometimes in the top of Alloa Tower. 
(2.) Commonly considered a distinct species. This beautiful bird, — 

('* His varied plumage like a heap of gems 
On a coarse carpet spread,") 
is much less numerous here than it was some years ago. This must be attributed to 



ALLOA. 11 

the destruction of tliem by poachers, there being few parishes where they haTe more 
abundant shelter than here. 

(3.) The starling has become plentiful here of late, being known to breed in the 
steeple of the old church. 

(4.) This beautiful bird is an irr^ular winter visitant. Specimens of it have been 
shot in this parish, at long intervals ; the last in 1823. 

(5.) There were few herons that bred here when the last Account was written. It 
is still a scarce bird, only a few of them now breeding in the old trees of AUoa wood, 
and sometimes a pair or two in the firs of the island in Gartmorn Dam. The con- 
gener of the heron, the bittern, which had then become very scarce, has totally dis- 
appeared from the parish, as has also the whimbril. 

(6.) Considerable numbers of these ** solitary wanderers of the deep** have been seen 
on the Forth at Alloa, at dififercnt times, but their appearance at such a distance 
from the sea is of rare occurrence, as was observed by the writers of the Old Statisti- 
cal Account. It is generally believed that they leave the sea only on account of very 
tempestuous weather. A storm from the eastward was experienced here in the be- 
ginning of November 1840, when several petrels were shot near the Alloa ferry, and 
when some of them were seen at Cambus, two miles farther up the river. One of 
these little creatures, the smallest of web-footed birds, has been preserred, and is in the 
possession of the writer of this account. 

All the soDg-birds common in Scotland are abundant bere^ as 
are the swallow and pie tribes, with all the cawing genus. In the 
Old Statistical Account, it is stated that only the Royston or hood- 
ed crow, bred in the parish ; and that magpies, ravens, crows, and 
jack-daws were often seen, but did not breed there. A colony of 
the last now find an asylum in the roof of Alloa Tower, and a few 
have taken possession of the upper part of the new church steeple. 
The intelligent farmers here, in general, seem convinced that 
rooks are beneficial, not hurtful to their crops ; and it has often 
been observed that, when the ploughman and sower are at work in 
the same field, the former is followed by a train of rooks, the lat- 
ter being unattended, his grain remains untouched. They will 
indeed, sometimes steal a little corn, but that only when the ground 
is so hard and dry as to prevent them from digging up insects and 
grubs, which are their natural food. — See an able pamphlet under 
the title of " Farmers versus Rooks," by J. S. Menteath, Esq. 
younger of Closeburn, published at Ayr in 1838. The object of 
the author is to show that rooks, so far from being injurious to the 
farmer by eating his newly sown corn, render him the most essential 
service by devouring grubs, which destroy not only corn, but the 
roots of grass and growing plants of every description. A pleasing 
poem on this subject, entitled the ** Farmer's Vision," has been 
privately printed and circulated among his friends, by its noble 
author, Lord Erskine, in whose distinguished life, one of the most 
pleasing features is, his long exerted zeal in the cause of the suf- 
fering animal creation. 



12 



CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 



Fiihes. — The following list of the fishes found in the Forth and 
tributary streams in the parish of Alloa, was kindly furnished to 
the writer by an eminent ichthyologist, Richard Pamell, Esq. 
M.D., F. R S. £.• 



Perca fluviatilii 
Labrax lupus 
Trigla gumardus 
Coitus scorpius 
Aspidophorus cataphractus 
Gasterosteus leiunu 
Fagellus centrodontus 
Thvnnus pelamy* 
(Xiphias gladius)! 
Caranz trachurua 
Mugil chelo 
Blennius pholis 
Anarrhichas lupus 
Gobius minutus 



(Esoz lucius)§ 
BeloDo vulgaris 
(Scomberesox 8aurus)|| 
Salmo salar 



#MWW»WM*V 



eriox 



•wwMvwwww Ida &w 
\««Wiw»i*iMW COCCI 161 1^ 

Osmerus eperlanus 
Clupea harengus 



m00i^mm^mmmm^ 



#tfWtM«OT0MMfl#* 



unipunctatus 



Callionymus lyra 
( Lophius piscatorius)^ 
Leuciscus phoiinus 
Cobitus barbatula 



spnttus 
,^ atba 
Alosa finta 
Gadus morrhua 
M«rlaDgu8 vulgaris 

carbonarius 



r»* »m m m» *tit r' X i— 



Lota molva 
lianiceps trifurcatus 



Platessa Talgaris 

^ flesus 

Rhombus maximus 
8olea Tulgarifl 
CTcIopterus lun^pus 
Liparis vulgaris 
AnguUla acutirastris 
Conger vulgaris 
Syngnathus acua 

«OTM<IWM«OTnMIMMWIM«W VVpOl^ 

(Acipenser sturio)** 

«» fwm. latifostns 

Spiuax acanthiaa 
Raia batis 

( clavata)tt 

Petromyion marinus 
fluviatilis 



* Dr Pameirs elaborate contributions to the Memoirs of the Royal and Wemerian 
Societiesi (see Vol. xiv. of the former, and Vol. vii. of the latter,) on the fishes inha- 
biting or frequenting the Firth of Forth, form one of the most valuable additions to 
the zoology of Scotland within the Inst fifty years. Thousands of persons never ima- 
gined that the Forth possessed any other lunds of fish than the eight or t^i seen in our 
markets, salmon, cod, haddock, herring, skate, flounder, eel, smelt* &c. It will 
surprise such persons to learn that this arm of the sea contains no less than 125 spe- 
cies, of which 40 were not known to exist in it imtil they were discovered by this 
enthusiastic young naturalist , and six had not been previously recorded by any 
writer, as frequenting the British seas. 

f The sword-fish has been occasionally found here; but is rare in our seas, its pro- 
per habitation being the Mediterranean. 

X A large specimen of this very deformed fish (which is also named frog- fish, toad* 
fish, and sea-devil,) was captured here on the ^h (September 1837. It is rare oa 
our coasts. 

§ Pikes were introduced into Gartmorn dam several years ago, much to the in- 
jury of the other fishes. Qnc was captured there last season, weighing 16 lbs., and 
one some years ago of 24 lbs. weight. 

II In the Old Statistical Account, these fishes are called gaudanooks, or Egyptian 
herrings ; and when it was written, were said to be a great help to many poor peo- 
ple. During the last thirty years, very few of them have been seen here. 

^ The I^ochleven and some other species of trout were introduced into Gartmorn 
dam, soon after its formation. Dr ParnelPs learned communication to the Royal 
Society (Transact. Vol. xiv. pp. 9 and 10,) contains an interesting account of this sin- 
gular species, and of the much disputed par. 

•• A sturgeon, which weighed 180 lbs., was captured here in 1823. 

ft Of the thornback or thorny skate, a gigantic specimen was taken in the yair 
at Alloa, on the 25th of November 1777. The following account of it is uken from 
the handwriting of the late worthy Alexander Bald, Esq. Senior. 

WEIGHT. 

The (total) weight, 13 stone, 7 lb., 940 pts. Dutch. 
The weiglit of the eatable part, 8 stone, lbs., 152 pts. 
The weight of the head and tail, 2 stone, 7 lbs. 



AI.LOA. 1 3 

Those of the aboye within parentheses, are not in Dr Pamelas 
list, but have all been found in the parish ; as have also a species 
of star-fish [AsteriaSf) and the cuttle-fish {Sepia officinalis^) com- 
mon on the British coasts. In 1635, a specimen of the uncom- 
mon and very beautiful opah (Lampris luna) was obtained from 
the firth here. It is common on the coast of Guinea, and but 
rarely caught off the shores of Britain. Its common weight is 
nearly 80 lbs. It has a smooth skin, without scales ; the eyes are 
large, and the irides of a scarlet hue, encompassed with a gold- 
coloured circle ; and it is destitute of teeth. The upper part of the 
body is of a beautiful green, blue, and violet intermixed, and en- 
riched with a shining golden hue, like the feathers of a peacock^ 
and speckled with white spots ; the chops are of a pale red colour ; 
the nose, gills, and belly silvery ; and all the fins of a bright sciir- 
let hue. 

These and innumerable other living creatures inhabit the 
waters which cover the surface of the globe, especially the tropi- 
cal seas, where they 

<* Graze the sea- weed, their pasture, and thro* groves 
Of coral stray ; or sparkling with quick glance. 
Show to the sun their waved coats dropt with gold." 

Well, then, might Oppian say. In mari multa latent. 

<' In the waters we may see all creatures. 
Even all that on the earth are to be found ; 
As if the world were in deqp waters drowned.** 

The salmon, ** king of fresh water-fishes," the migration of 
which is analogous to that of birds, is bred in rivers connected 
with the sea, but so remote as to be beyond the salt or brackish 
water. The spawning season in the Forth is believed to extend 
from the beginning of November to the end of January. The fry 
or young salmon migrate towards the sea chiefly during April and 
May, and return in July, August, and September, from 4 lb. to 
10 lb. weight. The descent of the parent fishes to the sea com- 
mences in February, and continues till the end of April. 

Much new light has recently been thrown upon the natural his* 
tory of the salmon ; and the very difficult question, tohat is a par f 

DIMENSIONS. 

From the-iip of one fin to the tip of the other, . 5 feet 9 inches. 

From the tip of the nose to the point of the tail, 7 3 

Across the middle of the eyes, and aerom the smaU back fins, each,2 2 
The length from the very back of the eyes to the very beginning 

of the tail, . . 3 

The thickness of the thickest part, 7 



1 4 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

is now completely set at rest by Mr John Shaw of Drumlaorig. 
(See Blackwood's Magazine, April 1840.) 

From the result of carefully conducted experiments made by Mr 
Shaw of Drumlanrigy Drumfries-shiret and other ichthyologists^ it 
appears that the young fry do not proceed to the sea in the same 
year they are hatched, as has generally been supposed, but that 
they remain in the fresh-water over the first winter, and migrate 
about the May following, or when about twelve or thirteen months 
old. If it shall be hereafter proved that they do not leave the 
river for thirteen or fourteen months, it is evident that an immense 
destruction of them must take place during their continuance in 
the fresh-water ; a circumstance of great importance to the 
fisheries. 

Insects. — The following list of a few of the insects found in this 
parish, includes some not common throughout the county, and 
others which are hurtful to vegetation. 

CoLNOPTERA. Vancssa Atalanta Metopsilus Elpenor 

Coccinella septum-puDctataC 1 . ) Hipparchia yUgeria Macroglossa stcllatanim 

Carabus catenulatus Megiera Ccrura vinula 

hortensis Semele Arctia caja 

violaceus hyperanthus Calocampa cxoleta 

Anthonomus pomoniro,(2 ) pamphiliiis Thyatira batis 

Chrysomcla fastuosa blandina Rumia craUegata 

Melolontha vulgaris,(d.) Lyccna Phlapas Hydrocampa njnnphsata 

Gyrinus natator alsus Plerophorus pentadactylus 

Polyommatus Artaxcncs Abraxas grossulariata (5.) 
LRriroFTEKA. Pamphila linea 
Ponlia brassicae sylvanus Hemiptera. 

cardamines Antliroccra loti Blatta oricntaIis(6.) 

Vanessa urtica? Smerinthus populi Coccus Persica?(7.) 

polychloros Aclierontia Atropos, (4.) mali 

C. album Sphinx ligustri Aphides var( 8.) 

(1.) The seven spotted lady-bird belongs' to a large family, of which 6fty arc alrcai?y 
known. All of them, both in the larva and perfect state, feed on the aphides, so mis- 
chievous in gardens, and do not injure vegetable substances. Their eggs arc commoD- 
ly found in groups, on leaves where aphides abound. Tlic lady-bird has been often 
charged with being the cause of blight, when seen on the cankered spots of apple- 
trees ; but it is in reality the best remedy against that disease. 

(2. ) The Anthonomus pomorum^ (the Curculio p. of Linn. ) is a weevil about a quar- 
ter of an inch long, the elytra dotted in rows, and of a dusky red. Bandages of tar 
applied round the stems of the trees prevent their ascent, for it is only in hot weather 
that they fly from tree to tree. They destroy tlie buds, and prevent the blossoms 
from unfolding. 

(3.) The cock-chafer, so very destructive in pasture grounds, has been rarely seen 
here tliese several years. The larva, a whitish worm with six legs, a red head, aud 
strong claws, lives in the earth four years, devouring the roots of the grass. Their 
increase may be prevented by employing children to take the insects in May and 
June, before they have laid their eggs ; which may be done by shaking and beating 
the trees and hedges during the day. Where land is ploughed up in the spring, if 
the weather be warm, hundreds of the grubs are exposed, when rooks, gulls, jays, &c. 
will devour them. The almost constant employment of rooks for three months in 
the spring is to search for this sort of food. 

(4.) lije death's-head molli is generally found on its natural food, the potato- plant. 



ALLOA. 15 

Superstition harbeen particularly active in suggesting causes of alarm from the insect 
tRTorld ; and, where man should have seen only beauty and wisdom, he has often 
found terror and dismay. But all these Tain imaginations are flitting away before 
the light of revelation, reason, and experience. 

(5.) The caterpillars of the magpie or gooseberry- moth, which in some seasonscom. 
mit extensive depredations on gooseberries and currants, may be killed by the smoke 
of live coal or peat, in a flower-pot or other vessel, placed under the bush, having an 
old cloth or carpet thrown over it. The smoke will ascend and be confined to the 
bush, from which the caterpillars will fall, apparently lifeless, in four or five minutes, 
but would recover if not collected with a hoe and destroyed. This plan should also 
be used in the earlier stages of the caterpillar ;— and it will likewise kill Aphides. 
(6. ) This species of cockroach, sometimes erroneously called the black beetle, is sup- 
posed to have been originally imported from Asia, and is thoroughly domesticated in 
many houses here, particularly those near the harbour, to the great vexation of the 
inhabitants. These insects, are among the most disagreeable annoyances to which 
the dwellings are subject ; and, when their multiplication is permitted, the ravages 
they commit are very extensive. The tapieni Sancho Panza declares that there is a 
remedy for every thing but death ; and it is truly fortunate for mankind that the in- 
crease of this pestilential race may be repressed by aid of their own voracity. They 
may be poisoned by meal, and one-third of white or red lead, or with arsenic subli- 
mated, &c. mixed with molasses: and they may be entrapped. by putting some food 
for them in a deep glass or tumbler, and covering the outside of it with cap-paper. 
Crickets may also be caught by the same means. 

(7.) Of the Coccus, or cochineal tribe, two are very destructive in gardens, the C 
Persicctt or peach coccus, and the C malU or apple-coccus, sometimes called the Lon-- 
don bug, the history of which is at present involved in much obscurity. It throws out 
a large quantity of cotton- like matter. 

llie above applies only to the apple-coccus. If the peach-coccus cannot be eradi- 
cated, its numbers may be greatly reduced by brushing the twigs of the tree early in 
the spring with a hair brush. When they are very numerous, and on the points of 
the twigs, these are sometimes cut off and carried out of the garden. This causes the 
loss of the fruit in a ereat measure for that season ; but the tree will be thrown into 
such health as to be m the finest order for the ensuing year. Should any females of 
this insect be found on the trees about the beginning of May next season, they should 
be carefully removed by means of a blunt knife having a very thin blade, and deposit- 
ed in a vessel to be carried out of the garden. With every female which is taken at 
this period, about 8000 esgs are destroyed. 

*' Knowing,** says the mgenious Mr Waterton, '* that the bug could not exist, if 
totally deprived of air, 1 resolved to bury it alive ; and this I effected by an applica- 
tion at once the most easy and simple that can be imagined. It costs nothing. I 
mixed clay with water, till it was of a consistency that it could be put on the injured 
parts of the tree, either with a mason's trowel or a painter's brush. I then applied it to 
the dtseased parts of the tree, and it soon smothered every bug. A second coat upon 
the first filled up every crack which showed itself when the clay had become dry ; 
and this resisted for a sufficient length of time the effects both of sun and rain.** 

(8.) The Aphides f or plant* lice, are very destructive to various growing crops ; and 
yet their history is very little known. The very name is omitted in some of the 
roost extensive catalogues of British insects. The bean dolphin, or collier, an insect 
of this genus, though named, is neither figured nor described. Tliese facts are not 
very creditable to our literature. Their natural enemies are the coccineUa, and the 
smaller soft-billed birds, (Sylviadcc)y yellow wren, gold-crest, tit, &c. which garden- 
ers and others oflen unjustly accuse of devouring tiie crop itself, when they are busy 
in search of plant-lice. These, and many other birds, do more good thain harm in 
gardens, and the shots intended for their destruction do more harm than good, as 
any man of observation may see in the broken bushes and mutilated bark of trees on 
the one hand, and the inscciivorout propensities of the birds on the other. 

Botany. — This parish compreheDds, 

— **' the boundless store 
Of charms which Nature to her votary yields ; 
The warbling woodland, the resounding shore. 
The pomp uf groves, and garniture of fields;*^ 

but its botanical treasures have been imperfectly explored. Tlie 



16 



CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 



following list inclades some of the more uncommon species, a few 
of which are probably not indigenous, but only " mark where a 
garden has been." 



Ligustnim vulgare 
Pinguicula Yulgaris 
Anthoxantbum odoratum 
Valeriana officinalis 
— Pjrrenaica 
— -^— rubra 
Eriopborum augustifoHum 
Arundo Phragmitcs 
— — arenaria, Sra. 
Knautia arrensis 
Scabiota suceiaa 

- columbaria 
Asperula odorata 
Pulmonaria officinalis 
Myosotis palustris 
Anagallis arvensis 
Lyaimacbia ncmorum 

tbyrsiflora 

Primula vulgaris 
■ veris 

Erythiaea Ccntaurium 
Atropa belladonna 
Solanum dulcamara 
Loniccra Periclymcnum 
Hydrocotylc vulgaris 
Cicuta virosa 
Apium gravcolcns 
Bunium Bcxuosum 
Myrrbis odorata 
Conium maculatum 
Statice armeria 
Drosera rotundifolia 
Berberis vulgaris 
Allium ursinum 



Hyacintbus non-scriptus 

flore albo 
Colcbicum autamnale 
A 1 ism a Plantago 
Calluna vulgaris 
Erica Tetralis 
' cinerea 

Vaccinium Myrtillus 



Malva sylvestris 
FuDooria parviflora 

a var. resemUing F. fiw- 
inoca 
Hypericum Androsamum 
calyctnum 



Carduus eriopborus 
Onopordum Acantbium 
Chrysosplcnium altemifb- Tanacetum vulgare 



Hum 
Silene inflata 
Stellaria nemorum 

— — bolostea 

Arcnaria serpyllifolia 
Sedum Telephium 

■■ acre 
Oxalis aeetosella 
Sempervivum tectorum 
Anemone nemorosa 
Caltha palustris 
Eupbrasia officinalis 
Ajuga reptans 
Bartsia Odontites 
Rhinantbus Crista* Galli 
Linaria Cymbalaria 
Scropbularia nodosa 
Digitalis purpurea 

Do. var. flore albo 
Cardnmime amara 
- — - biriuta 

Geranium pratense 
■■ sylvaticum 
sanguineum 



Cichorium Intybos 
Senecio aquaticus 
Anthemis nobilis 
Achillea Ptarmica 
Orchis mascula 



mono 
latifblia 



— - maculata 
Polypodium vulgare 
— ..-i-^ Pbegoptcris 

— Dryopteris 

Aspidium lobatum 

-— tbelypteris 

— — — orcopteris 

Filix-mas 

■ spinulosum 

Asplenium tricbomanes 
I - Adiaotum nigrum 

— — Filix-Fcnnina 
Scolopendrium vulgare 
Ptoris aquilina 
filechnum Boreale 
Opbiogloasum vulgatum. 



La vat era arborca 

The various species of wild roses flourish here in their season, 
with a luxuriance and beauty that may be said almost to rival tbe 
plains of Persia, and the valleys of Judea. This honour may be 
thought to belong rather to the rich garden rose, with all its va- 
rieties, than to the humble hedge-rose, which so frequently " wastes 
its sweetness on the desert air ;" but yet it is rarely beheld with- 
out awakening those less exciting, though not less delightful emo- 
tions which spring from objects of beauty, and lead to the devo- 
tion of gratitude, " from Nature up to Nature's God." 

<' Ah ! wbo can look on Naturc*s face, 
And feel unholy passions move!'* 

fVoods. — In this, and in most of the lower districts of Scotland, 
few remains of her ancient sylvan vegetation present themselves, 
and these are confined chiefly to ravines and narrow glens, where 
they are generally intermingled with planted trees. At the south- 
eastern extremity of this parish, in the grounds of the Earl of Mar 

3 



ALLOA. 17 

and Kellie, there was {)art of a natural wood when the last Statis- 
tical Account was written, a very small portion of which now 
remains. We are informed by Mr Tytler, that, in ancient times, 
so long ago as the reign of David II., this district of Clackman- 
nanshire, contained royal forests, in which, by a grant from the 
King, the monks of Holyrood had the right of cutting wood for 
building and other purposes, and of pasture for tlieir swine.* We 
may well suppose, however, that no two pictures could be more 
dissimilar than Scotland in the thirteenth and fourteenth, and 
Scotland in the nineteenth century ; for the present sylvan vegeta- 
tion can have little or no resemblance to the old; as trees from 
the continent of Europe, from Asia, and from America, now sup- 
ply the place of those which once indigenously occupied the soiU 
The gardens and grounds at Alloa were the first that were laid 
out on a great scale in Scotland ; and, with the advice of Le Nau- 
tre, they were indebted to the taste of John, the late Earl of Mar, 
who began to plant them in the year 1706. They would have 
exhibited to the fastidious Dr Johnson, had he travelled this way, 
as fine timber of fourscore years growth as his favourite England 
can produce. Alloa park, which includes all the older plantations, 
is very much enlarged, containing now no less than 480 imperial 
acres, one-half of which has been planted ; and, in several of its 
more elevated parts, the present noble proprietor has introduced 
a variety of fine trees, in clumps and otherwise, very taste- 
fully arranged. The beauty of park scenery is here well dis- 
played in a finely diversified surface, where hanging lawns, screen- 
ed with wood, are connected with valleys. This extensive and beau- 
tiful park, thus rich in the beauties of liberal nature, is not less 
rich in historic associations ; for here much that is memorable iu 
Scottish history has a " local habitation." The great variety of 
trees, both indigenous and exotic, makes a fine contrast in every 
season of the year ; of these the following are some of the more 
remarkable : 

Qucrcus Rubur Quercus coccinea Quercus Ccrris 

Ilex scsisiflttra Esculus 



* A foreign traveller, Uartmunn Scftedti, (in ** Iliatorla JEtalum Mundi,** Nu« 
remburg, 1493,) gives a description of Scotland in the reign of James 1 L *^ The 
following miracle/* he says, ^* was presented to us. We saw poor people almost nak- 
ed coming to church and begging ; upon which they received *tonei, for which they^ 
expressed thanks, and showed the greatest joy. This kind of stone, being composed 
of sulphur or other fat matter, is burned instead of wood* of which the country is 
destitute.** This, perhaps, veraciout traveller does not say what part of Scotland he 
traversed ; but it is evident that he had arrived at a place where the old forests were 
all exterminated, where modern planting had not commenced, and where coaX was 
jn&t beginning to be wrought. 

CLACKMANNAN. B 



18 



CLACKMAN NANSHIRB. 



Qucrcus lietcroph} 11a 
Finus ccdrus 

strobus 

balsarnca 

Canadensis 

horizontalis 

Pinaster 
Taxus baccata 

b. stricta 
Cupressus scmpcrvirens 

s. strictu 
Thuja oriental is 

oceidentalis 
Robinla Pseudacacia 



Viburnum Lantana 
Scrbus aucu]'aria 
Pyrus prunifuira 
Liriudendron TuUpifera 
JuglanM rcgia* 

nigra 

alba 
Castanea vcsc.i 
Esculus hippocastanum 
Corylus Avcllana 



Col u ma 
CratKgus uxycantlia {var. TilLi £urop 
Jloribut rubria.) Salix alba 



CraU^us Crus galli 
Fagus sylvatfca 
Acer Pseudo-Platanus 
Populus ascladesca 

alba 

moniliArra 

fastigiata 
Prunus cerasus 
Cerasus avium 
Ulmus rubra pendula 
Fraxinus excelsior, peodula 



Tullibody woods are also extensive, and comprise a track of 
M'oodland of fine sylvan beauty. The more elevated parts are, in 
general, covered with Scotch fir {Pinus sylvestris) and other 
pines or soft wood, as they are called, chiefly as a shelter to forest 
trees in the younger plantations ; but occasionally standing by 
themselves, and being of stately size, they add to the height of 
the rising grounds, and to the picturesque appearance of the land- 
scape. In the more fertile lower grounds, the usual forest trees^ 
oak, ash, beech, horse-chestnut, planes, poplars, &c are in a very 
thriving condition ; and these, with all the other trees, appear to 
have been planted. The most generally prevailing tree appears 
to be the oak, {Quercus Robur^) several of which are of great size. 

Only that portion of Shaw Park wood which surrounds the 
mansion-house is in this parish, — and it consists chiefly of beech. 
There are a few other thriving trees, oak, elm, lime, chestnut, &c. 
and some varieties of the pine, including fine healthy specimens of 
the cedar of Lebanon, but not remarkable for size. It is surpris- 
ing that this tree is so little cultivated throughout the country. It 
grows as fast to a large tree as the oak, stands as long or longer, 
is green all the year round, and, therefore, a shelter to the land, 
at the same time that it is the most ornamental of all larcre- 
growing trees.-f- 

In Alloa woods, a few of the trees have been measured, (the 

' The fi uit ripens here most seasons. 

f The Deodar, or Indian cedar, {Ccdrus Dcodara,) introduced to Hritain in 1S22, 
seems, in respect of its timber, possessed of all the properties ever ascribed to the ce- 
dar of Li'banon, compared with whicli the tree seems also equally, if not more har- 
dy and suital)le for the climate of Britain, — and it has also the advantage of «rrofring 
more rapidly when youni? ; so that it may yet become one of the most valuable of 
the CunifhiT, whether as a timber or an ornamental tree. It is a native of the Hi- 
malaya mountains, where trees 100 fi'ct high, without branches, and 3() feet in cir- 
cumference, are not uncommon ; some are even larger. If the Deodara be grafted 
on the cedar of Lebanon, it will make a tree much sooner than upon iis own iKHtom. 
Many tine plants art- spoiled by being grafted on larches, merely because cedars of 
Lebanon arc expensive stocks. 



ALLOA. 19 

ginh being taken at one foot from the ground,) as under : Horse- 
chestnut, girth, 19 feet, extent of branches 70 feet ; another horse- 
chetsnut, girth, 13 feet, extent of branches, 66 feet ; beech, girth, 
18 feet; another beech, girth, 14 feet 6 inches. Of the latter, 
the height to the branches is 20 feet. Oak, {Quercus Rohur^) girth, 
15 feet, extent of branches, 68 feet. This very beautiful tree 
stands singly in the park. Greater maple or sycamore, girth 12 
feet 6 inches; yew, {Taxus baccata^) girth, 7 feet 6 inches; at 
beginning of branches, (3 feet from the ground,) girth, 1 1 feet 

These dimensions give an average girth of 9 feet 3 inches, and 
a diameter of 3 feet 1 inch, or 37 inches, which, by De Candolle's 
method, being multiplied by 12, gives 444 years as the age of the 
tree. This is on the supposition that each annual ring is equal to 
one line in breadth. If for aged trees we take the average of one 
line annually, we make them younger than they really are. There 
are several more yew trees here of apparently the same age. 

A fine ash {Fraxinus exceUior) in the park, long named the 
** giant's staff," is more remarkable for beauty than for size, being 
free from branches to a great height, and as straight as a ship's 
mast. A similar tree is thus alluded to by Homer, 

*' From Pe1ion*s clfMidy top* an ash entire 
OJ J Chiron felled, and shaped it for his sire ; 
A spcur which stern ^Achilles only wields. 
The deatli of heroes and the dread of field.t." 

The largest tree in the parish is an oak near Tullibody House,* 
measuring in girth 20 feet ; extent of branches, 98 feet ; others 
do. measuring in girth, 14 feet; an ash measuring 15 feet; and 
several sycamores, 14 feet. 

Geology and Mineralogy,^ — The whole of this parish is compos- 
ed of rocks, without exception, belonging to the independent coal 
formation, upon which rests a thick cover, both of old and recent 
alluvial clay. The surface is undulated, forming hill and dale, 
all of it in an arable state. The recent alluvial cover is evidently 
formed by deposits from the river Forth, and its tributary streams, 
washing down the old alluvial clay, and extends along the north 
side of the river, until it joins the old alluvial cover northward ; 
the line of junction being quite distinct. This line is about twenty- 

* In the year 1745, when the rebel army, conaisting of 4000 men, had got posses* 
sion of the town, though not of the Castle of Stirling, the Rev. Ebenezer Erskine, 
one of the fathers of the Secession, found it expedient to retire for a season, and preach- 
ed to his people in the wood of Tullibody. 

t For this valuable contribution the writer is indebted to Robert Bald, Esq. 
F.R.S.E., F G.S., M.W.S., &c Mining- Engineer. 



20 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

five feet higher than the surface of the river, at the highest spring- 
tides ; hence it is evident, that the tides, when washing along the 
margin of the old alluvial cover, flowed at least twenty-five feet 
higher than they do at present. It is supfiosed by geologists, that 
the formation of the recent alluvial cover by the river along both 
its banks, has been the cause of the excluding of the tides, and 
lowering them so much in their height ; but this must have taken 
place at a remote, period, as it is evident that the height of the 
tides is very little altered since the Romans were in Scotland, as 
may be seen from the artificial fords in the river, and the site of 
the roads and military works of those people. 

The old alluvial cover consists of clay, sand, gravel, and boulders, 
intitnately mixed, so as to render it impervious to water, and is 
the most sterile of all compounds ; it is of various thickness, from 
a few feet to many fathoms. In the rising ground, immediately 
north from the town of Alloa, a shaft or pit was sunk through no less 
than fifty-four yards of this clay, ere the rock was found. The 
lower part of this alluvium, of about a foot thick, was composed of 
very fine clay in laminae not thicker than a common wafer, and of 
great flexibility and toughness ; from which it is inferred that this 
fine clay had been deposited in still water, previous to the thick 
heterogeneous mixture being superimposed. It is also to be re- 
marked, that, wherever this kind of cover forms rising grounds in 
this and the adjoining parishes, the steep brow of these hills faces 
the west, and from this height gradually slopes to the east, these 
hills and valleys being in a west and east direction. 

This cover, as before noticed, is remarkable for its sterility, the 
cause of which appears to be that no vestige of animal or vegeta- 
ble remains has ever been found in it, though it has been fre- 
quently sunk through both in the opening of mines and quarries. 
But this cover rests on rocks of the coal formation, which con- 
tain immense quantities of organic remains, both of the animal 
and vegetable kingdoms. From these undeniable facts, it is con- 
cluded that the old alluvial cover is not the deposit of the deluge, 
for had it been so, both animal and vegetable substances would 
have been found in it ; and the conclusion is formed that this cover 
had been deposited previous to the deluge, and it is supposed that 
the subsiding waters of that flood, in some degree, influenced the 
form of the valle}s, and the steep brow of this cover facing the west. 

The boulder stones found in this cover, consist chiefly of those 
belonging to the trap and transition rocks ; and along the surface, 



ALLOA. 21 

particularly near the line of junction with the recent alluvial de- 
posit of the River Forth, are found large masses of greenstone 
rock, which must have been brought by the waters, from the great 
rocks of greenstone, which abound in the vicinity of Stirling, upon 
the west, as no beds or dikes of this rock have been found in this 
parish. 

The recent alluvial cover deposited by the River Forth con- 
sists entirely of soft blue mud or silt in the lower part, and strong 
tenacious clay at the surface, suitable for brick-making. No stones 
of any kind are found in it, the deposit having been made from 
still- water ; but it rests sometimes on clay of the old alluvial cover^ 
and at the surface of this clay boulders of greenstone are found. 

This recent alluvial deposit of the river Forth is of various 
thickness, from a few inches at the line of junction with the old 
alluvial cover, to thirty yards. This depth was bored through, 
ere the rock was reached at Longcarse farm-steading, west from 
the harbour of Alloa. 

At the Rhind point, south from Longcarse farm-steading, there 
is a ford known by the name of the Throsk Ford, which is the 
most southerly part of this parish. The whole bed of the river, 
as far as low water-mark, is laid over with an immense quantity of 
boulders, chiefly of greenstone. This ford is four feet higher 
than the pitch of low-water, or the lowest ebb at Alloa harbour, 
and there is deep water beyond this ford to the westward. Hence 
it is concluded, that this ford or collection of stones in the river is 
altogether artificial, having been made by the Romans as a pass, 
similar to the other fords up the river towards Stirling. 

In some places, there are found quantities of a brown ferrugi- 
nous sand, overlaying the old alluvial cover, and in the narrow val- 
leys, there are deposits of brown tenacious clay, with small stones 
disseminated through it. These deposits appear to have been 
formed by the deluge. 

The rocks in this parish being entirely of the coal formation, 
consist only of a very few varieties, viz. Istj Sandstone of various 
colours, but chiefly light red, yellowish, and grey, inclining to white. 
2dy Sandstone combined with coal slate, in the form of clay, and 
in very various proportions. 3rf, Coal slate containing bands and 
balls of common clay ironstone. 4f/t, Coal slates of a dark colour 
found generally with a bed of coal resting upon them. 5thf Beds 
of coul from one inch to nine feet thick. 6M, Limestone. 



22 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

Tho general dip of the rocks is to the north-east, and the de« 
clination from the horizon is, on an average, one foot perpendicu* 
lar in s\7i feet horizontal. 

This coal-field is intersected by many dislocations or slips, both 
in an east and west, and in a south and north direction. Two of 
these', which are in an east and west direction, are very remark- 
able. 

The one farthest north passes through the rising ground north 
from the farm-steading of Parkhead, and has the effect of throw- 
ing down the coals and their accompanying strata, more than 100 
fathoms. The coal-field to the north of this slip in the parish is 
known by the name of Coalyland ; the coalfield upon the south of 
this slip is known by the name of Carsebridge. Both these coal* 
fields contain the same beds of coal. 

In the Carsebridge coal-field, all the coals having cropped 
out, as it is termed in the miner's language, or having come to the 
surface of the rocks in a south direction, and in contact with the 
alluvial cover, it is found that, on the south side of the parish, 
near to the parish of Clackmannan, an immense slip takes place, 
and has the eflfect of throwing down the coals and accompanying 
strata fully 200 fathoms, and forms the south co.il-field of this pa- 
rish, with coals and strata the same as those before-mentioned. 

This is understood to be the greatest slip of the strata hitherto 
ascertained in the coal-fields of Scotland ; and it is remarkable, ia 
a geological point of view, that the surface gives no indication 
whatever of such a dislocation or slip, either here or at the other 
great slip before-mentioned, and that these slips are somewhat pa- 
rallel with the south front of the Ochil mountains, which form 
part of the north boundary line of the coal<formatiou of Scotland. 

These coal-fields being intersected by the great slips before- 
mentioned, each coal-field is, as to its coals and accompanying 
strata, basin -shaped, or rather, tho portion of a basin, and some- 
what of a fan shape: at least, such is the south coal-field next 
Clackmannan parish, and the middle coal field of Carsebridge. 
But the Coalyland coal-field is part of a long elliptic basin, the 
coals and their accompanying strata dipping northwards to the 
River Devon, and then rising very abruptly along the face of the 
Ochil mountains. The east end of this trough is about a mile east 
from the town of Dollar; the west end of it, where coals are 
found, is at the north-west part of the parish, crossing the River 
Devon towards the Ochil mountains. 



ALLOA. 23 

At the north-east part of the parish, in the farm of Jellyholm, 
near to Gartmoru dam, is a great diagonal sb'p, which runs from 
the north-east to the south-west. The extent to which it dislo- 
cates the strata, is unknown, but it throws the coals and the accom- 
panying strata down to the east, and gives formation to an exten- 
sive coal-field, stretching chiefly into the parish of Clackmannan* 
The coals are the same as those before described ; and, besides 
these great slips or dislocations of the strata, there are many other 
slips of less magnitude in the coal-fields. 

The Ochil mountains are composed of trap and porphyry rocks. 
This fact, combined with the circumstance before-mentioned, has 
given rise to many discordant theories. It may, however, be in- 
ferred, that these trap rocks underlie the whole of these coal-fields. 

Quality of the Rocks and Economical Uses. — The first class of 
sandstone is applied to the ordinary purposes of building, but they 
are generally porous and liable to imbibe water, both by capillary 
attraction from wet foundations, and from rain. The red-colour- 
ed variety has been frequently mistaken for the old red sandstone, 
but it is altogether different from both it and the new red sand- 
stone. This red sandstone belongs decidedly to the alternating 
strata of tlie coal-formation, and is of a light-red or bluish colour. 

The bands and balls of ironstone found in the strata of coal 
slate are of the same kind of clay ironstone commonly found ac- 
companying coal in Scotland, which yields from 80 to 35 per cent, 
of pig-iron, and has been long wrought in this parish for the iron 
furnaces. 

The fourth class of rocks before-mentioned, viz. argillaceous 
rock or fire clay, is of a dark colour, and when wrought, turns out 
in irregular lumps, very different from the coal slate. The lat- 
ter, when exposed to fire, becomes of a brick-red colour, and melts 
easily into a black glass or slag. The former comes out of the 
fire of a yellowish-white colour, and is found to be very refractory, 
and is cpnsequently much used for making fire-bricks for the lin- 
ing of furnaces, where an intense heat is required. 

The coals are verv abundant, and are from a few inches to nine 
feet in thickness. They are all of an open burning quality, and 
composed both of splint and cubical coal. They in general hold 
very little sulphur in combination, but it is found in the form of 
pyrites, which can be separated from the coal and thrown aside. 
These pyrites have not been found so abundant as to be of any 
use. None of them are suitable for smiths' forges, where a very 



24 CLACKMANNAiSSHlRE. 

strong heat is required, being only suitable for ordinary light work, 
so that smithy coals for heavy work have to be imported from a 
distance. The only cannel or parrot-coal found in the parish is 
about four inches thick, and is of so little value, that all the cannel 
coals for the Alloa gas-works are brought by sea- carriage from a 
considerable distance. 

No workable coal has been found farther west than this parish, 
upon the north side of the Forth ; nor even farther west than the 
estate of Mar. Many attempts have been made by boring in Lord 
Abercromby's estate of Tullibody to find coal, without success. 
From these borings and the quarries in the vicinity, there appears 
to be a very thick body of whitish sandstone underlying the work- 
able coals of this, parish* 

The only appearance of limestone in the parish is found at the 
western boundary in the river Devon, near the village of Cambus. 
Its situation prevents it from being wrought, and very little is 
known of its quality or thickness. There is, however, every rea- 
son to conclude, that, in the lower series of rocks connected with 
this coal-field, there is a bed of mountain or carboniferous lime- 
rock, and that this rock lies under all the workable beds of coal, 
as is generally the case in Scotland, England, and Wales ; and it 
is inferred that this is the moutain-limestone. 

Organic Remains. — In the old alluvial cover which chiefly over- 
lies the rocks of this parish, no organic remains of any kind have 
been found. In the recent alluvial cover of the rocks formed by 
the river Forth, they are found in the lower part of it, not only 
very many large common oyster shells, but also the greater part 
of those species of shells which are found in the sea near Leith, 
including the shells of crabs, and also the bones and horns of deer. 

In the coal formation, there are immense quantities of impres- 
sions of the vegetable kingdom, and of oysters, which naturalists 
consider as belonging to the fresh-water class. These organic re- 
mains are found chiefly in the coal slate, and in the bands and 
balls of ironstone. In the sandstone the petrifactions are compa- 
ratively rare, but they are in general found of a larger size than in 
the other strata, and chiefly of the vegetable kingdom. 

The chief organic remains in this coal-field are of the following 
classes : 

^wiwa/.— Uiiio, a fresh water bivalve, also My tikis, and other 
molluscs. Of fishes, remains of the genera Gyracanthus, Mega- 
jicthys, (the species Hibberti) ; also teeth, scales, and spines of 
other fishes. Coproliles found in nodules of iron clay stone. 



ALLOA. 25 

. yeffeiable.'^Species of the genera Calamites, Stigmaria^ Le- 
pidodendron, Pecopteris, Equisetum, Favullaria, (tessellata^) &c. 

Of these there are many varieties ; and along the roof of the 
coals are impressions of gigantic palm trees, which the miners here 
term plough furrows. 

Collieries. — The coals of this parish have been wrought for a 
long period of years, but at what time they commenced is quite 
uncertain. It would appear, however, from some very old papers, 
in possession of the family of Mar, that coals were wrought pre- 
vious to the year 1650, by day-levels. 

As the collieries were opened both for home sale and exporta- 
tion, they have been wrought extensively, and the workable coals 
in this parish have been distinctly ascertained. 

The stratification has been satisfactorily proved to the depth of 
140 fathoms, extending beyond the lowest workable seam of coal 
in the field. This lower coal is known by the name of the lower 
Coalsnaughton main coal, and throughout all the Clackmannan- 
shire coal-field no workable coal has been found under it. The 
number of seams of coal found in the depth of 115 fathom?, is 
21, the aggregate thickness of which is fully 60 feet* At the pre- 
sent time, no coal here is reckoned workable to profit below 2^ 
feet thick. If all the coals below that thickness are deducted, 
there remain nine workable coals, the thinnest of which is 2 feet 
8 inches thick, and from that to 9 feet. 

It is proper here to remark, that a coal being workable or not 
workable, according to its thickness, depends much upon the dis- 
trict in which coals are found, no coal, however thin, being physi- 
cally unworkable. If coals are very high in price, and no thick 
seams are to be found in the district, coals of 1 foot 6 inches are 
wrought ; but when coals are thick and very moderate in price, 
coals under 2 feet 6 inches are estimated as not workable to 
profit, unless they are of the rich caking quality, suitable for 
smith's forges, bringing a comparatively high price. Of the thin 
coals in this parish some of them are only an inch or two thick. 

There are three coal-fields in this parish composed of the same 
strata, and seams of coal, and are divided from each other by the 
great north slip before-mentioned. The coal-field on the north 
side of the slip is named the Coalyland coal-field, that on the south 
side of the slip is named the Carsebridge coal-field. In both of 
these, collieries upon an extensive scale have been wrought 
The first operations were by day-levels upon a very limited scale. 



26 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

There are yet traces of a day level running in a north and soiith 
direction near the Carsebridge distillery. 

The application of the steam-engine for the drainage of mines 
being compafatively of a recent date, viz. about the year 1715, 
previous to this date, when day-levels could not be obtained, horse 
machinery, with chains and buckets, were applied to a depth not 
exceeding 15 fathoms. This machine was known in Scotland by 
the name of the Cogg and Run Machine, that is, a wheel with 
teeth working into a trundle or lanthorn pinion, such as was used 
in the old corn-milK Such machines being very soon overpowered 
with water, the next resource was hydraulic machinery, for which 
large collections of water were made in the coal districts of Scot- 
land. Pumps with valves were then unknown in Scotland, and 
the hydraulic machine, as then applied in this parish, was a water- 
wheel, with the axle across the pit -mouth ; over this were several 
tires of endless pudding-link iron chains, and when the water was 
scarce, then comparatively few buckets were attached to the chains. 
In this manner, water was raised at a pit in the Carsebridge col- 
liery, which was 40 fathoms deep to the 9 feet coal, and the 
drainage was carried on effectually for about fifty years. 

For ensuring a supply of water for this water-engine, Gartmora 
dam was formed. It is situated upon the east side of the parish, 
and its surface, when full, measures above 160 acres. 

It is particularly to be noticed, in a statistical point of view, that, 
about the year 1700, John, Earl of Mar, who was so remarkable 
for the improvement of the arts and sciences in Scotland, and who 
wished to have the best advice as to the forming of Gartmorn dam, 
the sinking of the before-mentioned engine pit of 40 fathoms 
deep, and the application of the machinery, could then find no 
person of sufficient skill in Scotland to make a survey and report 
thereon. His Lordship, therefore, that he might have the most 
eminent person of that day, brought Mr Sorocold, a mining en- 
gineer, from Wales, at a great expense. He tried the levels for 
bringing in a supply of water from the river Black Devon, in the 
parish of Clackmannan, to Gartmorn dam, and the acqueduct was 
executed according to his directions. The' levels were not taken 
bj a spirit level, as is the present practice, but by a large wooden 
quadrant, set upon a tripod with brass lights, along the upper 
radius, the index being a plummet suspended by a fine thread 
This instrument was of no use in a strong wind, but when the wind 
was moderate, the undue oscillation of the plummet was brouglit 



ALLOA. 27 

to rest by immersing it in water. For this purpose an attendant 
was at all times required to carry a wooden cup with water, and 
apply it to the plummet, at every observation. 

In Mr Sorocold's report on the sinking of the befoi^-mentioned 
engine pit, he recommended the application of large pumps with 
valves, in place of the chains and buckets, — the former being 
greatly superior to the latter in every point of view. But when 
the recommendation came to be acted upon, the Earl's secretary 
states, in a document still in preservation, that, as there was no 
person in Scotland who could construct such pumps as were re- 
quired, he requested to know from the Earl, '* whether he would 
apply for advice to John Young, who had been sent by the town 
of Montrose to Holland to see the windmills there, or to the me- 
chanical priest in Lancashire." 

The pit was sunk, and the main or nine feet coal laid dry, not 
with pumps, but by the old system of chains and buckets. It is 
said, that, at this time, gunpowder was not in practice for blowing 
up rocks in sinking, and this pit was sunk by aid of what is termed 
plug and feathers. This method is to bore a hole in the rock 
about three feet deep, then to insert in each side of the hole a fea- 
ther of iron longer than the hole is in depth. These feathers of 
iron are circular on the one side, and plain on the other. Betwixt 
these a long tapering wedge is placed, and driven with the full force 
of sledge hammers, until part of the rock was burst asunder. In 
this most laborious manner, the sinking was conducted in the midst 
of a deluge of water, occasioned by the imperfect mode of draw- 
ing the water up the pit ; and it is a matter of remark, when de- 
scending these old shafts where this method of sinking was used, 
that, wherever very hard beds of stones are passed through, the 
pit is considerably narrower at these beds, but it is at the regular 
width in the ordinary strata. This arose from the very great 
expense of this mode of sinking; and it is thus seen how much 
the sinking of pits has been improved and facilitated since the 
introduction of gunpowder in blasting rocks. 

This winning being exhausted, the next operation was the win- 
ning of the same nine feet coal on the north side of the great north 
slip at Coalyland, near the river Devon. This was begun in the 
year 1764, and was won by a steam-engine, according to Newco- 
men's plan, with Beighton's arrangements, having the boiler im- 
mediately under and almost close to the cylinder. This pit gained 
the nine feet coal at the depth of 48 fathoms. The cylinder was 



28 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

• 

40 inches in diameter, the pumps 10 inches diameter. All these 
pumps were of plane-tree, bored out of the solid wood, hooped 
with iron, having spigget and faucet joints. The only pipes in 
the two columns made of cast*iron were the working barrels. About 
thirty-five years ago, the mines of this colliery took fire, but from 
what cause is unknown ; nor could the fire be extinguished until a 
stream of water was poured down the engine-pit, and the colliery 
was abandoned. There yet remains an extensive field of coal to 
work, consisting of several seams. The mining operations in one 
of the coals has been commenced on an extensive scale, by means 
of mines brought from the pit bottom of the New Sauchy pump* 
ing engine, situated in Clackmannan parish, — the property of the 
Earl of Mansfield. 

The present colliery of Carsebridge, on the south side of the 
great north slip, is about 50 fathoms deep to the upper five feet 
coal. This winning was made about the year 1760. It is drained 
by a hydraulic engine of considerable power. The water-wheel is 
80 feet diameter overshot, and 3 feet wide in the buckets, with a 
3 feet crank on each side of the axle, and draws the water to the 
surface by means of pumps 10 inches diameter. This method of 
draining a colliery is nearly as economical as that of a day level 
The water for drawing the water-wheel is brought from Gartmorn 
Dam. 

The limited coal-field on the south side of the great south slip 
was nearly wrought out about a century ago. This slip cut ofi*the 
workings to the north, and many trial bores were put down to the 
north of the workings in search of the nine feet coal which had 
been lost ; but all these trials were fruitless. At that time, the 
effect of these slips was unknown ; and the fact is, that the coal 
which was lost was thrown up 200 fathoms, and the consequence 
is, that the crop of it is not found for about three-quarters of a 
mile, and that immediately to the north of the Carsebridge hy- 
draulic pumping-engine. The effect of these slips is only a recent 
discovery, as well as the true constitution o£the coal-fields. 

All the coals in this parish were wrought in the common way, 
by post and stall as it is termed, or in pillars and rooms, till within 
these thirty years, when the Shropshire method was introduced, 
and no pillars left. It was begun in the Carsebridge colliery, in a 
coal about three feei thick, and is carried on successfully at pre- 
sent. In the Colyland colliery, the post and stall system is now 
pursued, the coal being too thick for working in the Shropshire 



ALLOA. . 29 

system with economy. By this last system, from an eighth to a 
ninth of the coal is lost ; by the other system, the coal left in pil- 
lars is from a fourth to a third of the whole. 

Inflammable air, the carburetted hydrogen of the chemists, was 
never found in these mines, which is no common blessing to the 
miners. Fixed air or carbonic acid gas, however, is abundant, and 
has been the cause of loss of life. The miners name it styth, 
black-damp, choke-damp, and also the pease-bloom damp, con- 
ceiving that it is generated by the blossoms of the field pease and 
beans, or by the flowers of the wild mustard, which they name^ 
skelloch. The cause of this supposition is, that, during the heat 
of summer, when these plants are blooming, the air in the mines 
is commonly very bad, whereas the sultry air is the cause. 

Until within these thirty years, all the coals in this parish were 
brought from the wall face or foreheads of the mines by women, 
married and unmarried, old and young; these were known by the 
name of bearers. When the pit was deep, they brought the coals 
to the pit bottom ; but when the pits did not exceed 18 fathoms, 
they carried the coals to the bank at the pit-head by a stair. A 
stout woman carried in general from 100 to 200 weight, and, in a 
trial of strength, 300 weight imperial. 

Of all the slavery under heaven's canopy (the African slavery 
as it was in the West Indies excepted), this was the most cruel 
and oppressive, both as regards body and mind, and wherever this 
system exists, the condition of the collier and his family is most 
lamentable, — it is a bar to any improvement or comfort whatever. 
As the collieries in this parish extended, this oppressive slavery 
became evidently worse, and the late most worthy and excellent 
John Francis Earl of Mar, with a benevolence and philanthropy 
which does honour to his memory, ordered this system to be com- 
pletely abolished. The evils attending this system, may, in some 
degree, be estimated, when it is stated, that, when his Lordship 
put an end to it, 50,000 tons of coals were raised at his collieries 
annually, every ounce of which was carried by women. Iron rail- 
ways and tranmers, with foi>r-wheeled carriages, are now substi- 
tuted, to the great comfort of the miner, his family, and all con- 
cerned with the collieries. 

The rotatory steam-engine is used for drawing the coals up the 
pits, and this can be accomplished with any velocity required. 

The coals are carried from the pits to the harbour of Alloa, by 



30 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

means of a railway, and the progressive improvements in this mode 
of conveyance have been passed through here. 

Ist^ The first railroad here was laid in the year 1766. This 
was composed of Scotch fir-rails of a scantling 4 inches by 5 inches, 
fixed by wooden pins to cross pieces of wood near to each other, 
termed sleepers. 

2dy The above was improved upon and strengthened by laying 
a top rail above the other, of the same kind of wood ; but the fir- 
wood chafied and wore so fast with the iron-wheels, that this had 
to be improved. 

Sdy The next improvement was to make the top rail beech-wood. 
This became smooth and glossy, and continued to be the improved 
railway until the introduction of cast-iron. 

4tky The next attempt at improvement was the adopting of cast- 
iron, by plating the wooden rails with cast-iron in pieces of four 
feet long, of an inch and a quarter square ; each piece of rail hav- 
ing three projecting ears with holes, through which a pin was 
driven to fix the iron-rail in its place. This plan proved quite 
abortive, for the instant the wood gave way or yielded, the cast- 
iron was broken, and it was found so useless and so expensive that 
it was thrown aside altogether. The engineers then never once 
contemplated the substitution of cast-iron rails of a proper form, 
in lieu of the wooden-rails. 

5t/i, The next improvement adopted was the double wooden 
rails before-mentioned, being formed of best Memel or Prus- 
sian fir, plated with Swedish malleable iron, IJ inches broad and 
I of an inch thick. This railroad kept long in a good state, but 
when the wooden rails began to fail, the repairs were never ending 
and expensive. 

Gt/tf The preceding improved road was superseded, about thirty 
years ago, by an edge railroad composed of cast-iron rails and 
sleepers of the same, which plan had become common in England, 
and had been adopted at several collieries in Scotland. This was 
a decided improvement upon all the former plans in every point of 
view. 

7///, The cast-iron railway being worn out after thirty years ser- 
vice, the next and last improvement made in this railway was the 
substituting edge rails of malleable iron, known by the name of 
Bedlington patent rail. These arc laid on stone blocks and fixed 
thereto by cast-iron chains, as is the universal practice in every 
district in Great Britain. 



ALLOA. 31 

The improvement as to the execution of work done upon these 
several kinds of railroads is as follows, — 

Previous to the introduction of the first railroad in this parish, 
a horse brought from the coal-hills to the town or harbour one cart 
of coals weighing six cwt. 

By the first railway a horse brought down a chalder waggon, 
containing 30 cwt., that is five times more than formerly. 

The second, third, and fourth improvements gave a more sub- 
stantial and lasting road, but no better execution of work than by 
the first plan. 

By the fifth improvement a man and a horse brought down at 
a time three waggons of coals, or 90 cwt, which was thrice the 
quantity performed by a man and a horse upon the former plans 
of railroads. 

By the sixth improvement, waggons containing only one ton or 
20 cwt. were adopted, and one man and one horse brought down 
eight tons at a time or 160 cwts., which was nearly double of the 
former improvement. 

The seventh improvement produces no more effect or execution 
than the former at present ; but this fact is undoubted, that, if ne- 
cessary, ten tons will be as easily drawn along the malleable iron 
railway as eight tons along the wavy surface of the last iron rail- 
way. If, therefore, the improvement in railways is viewed, and 
compared with the work of a horse in a cart before the railroads 
in this parish were made, a man and a horse actually do the work 
of what would have required 27 men and 27 horses formerly. The 
hire of a man and horse for drawing coals along the present rail- 
way from the coal-hills to the Alloa harbour, a distance of two 
miles and a half, is 3^d. each ton, the waggons being furnished 
and upheld to him. 

As to the output of coals in this^ parish annually, it has been 
greatly reduced, although as a coal-shipping port the annual quan- 
tity is increased. This arose from the circumstance, that John 
Erancis Earl of Mar, in the year 1806, took in lease New Sauchy 
colliery, in the parish of Clackmannan, which he wrought very 
extensively by colliers and their families taken from Alloa parish 
to reside in the parish of Clackmannan. Previous to this arrange- 
ment, the quantfty of coal raised, annually, in the parish, may be 
taken at from 44,000 to 50,000 tons. At present the annual 
quantity raised is about from 76,000 to 80,000 tons. 

Wages. — The price paid the collier for working the coal, and 



32 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

filling the same at the wall-face into the conre, is, on an aTerage, 
Is. 8d. per ton of 20 cwt., and a good workman can earn from 16s. 
to L. ]» 4s. per week. Smiths' wages at the colliery are 16s. 
and Wrights' 17s. per week. Sinkers and miners have about 
2s. 6d. per day, and ordinary labourers from 9s. to 12s. per weeL 
The colliers have their houses and their fire coals free, but they 
work the coals. 

In considering the rate of a collier's wages, compared with 
other labourers for a century back to the present time, it is con- 
cluded that a collier ought to earn double the amount of an ordi- 
nary effective labourer or spademan, because to be an expert miner 
requires much practice. They are exposed to many casualties, aris- 
ing from the roofs falling and noxious vapours. Besides which, 
they have their lights and tools to uphold. 

With regard to the selling prices of coals in this parish, those 
have varied much within a comparatively short period. During 
the latter part of the last war with France, the prices were as fol- 
low per ton of 20 cwt, — great coal on the hills, 6s. 8d. ; chews, 
5s. 4d. ; great coal put on board at the harbour, 10s. : chew coal, 
do. do. 7s. 6d. 

From the end of the war to Martinmas 1835, they declined 
very much, and no coal was sold on the Alloa hills, as all land 
sales were made at the Alloa coal-fold and at the New Sauchy 
coHiery, in the parish of Clackmannan. 

The sea sale prices previous to Martinmas 1835 were as fol- 
low, — great coal put on board, per ton, 6s. 6d. ; chew coal, do. do. 
4s. 6d. 

These prices are as low as they were here, a century ago, not- 
withstanding the decrease of the value of money, and a more than 
double rate of waf^es. 

This is chiefly owing to the application of the steam-engine for 
drawing water from the mines and the coals up the pit. 

The prices of coals here at present, anno 1837, are as follows: 
great coal on the hills, per ton, 8s. 9d. ; chew coal, do. 7s. 2d. ; 
great coal put on board at the harbour, per ton, lOs. ; chew coal, 
do. 8s. As tliese coals do not cake, the culm or dross, named here 
lime-coal or pan-wood, is of little value. A small quantity is rais- 
ed, being generally thrown aside into the wastes as rubbish, to the 
extent of many thousand tons. The present prices are, per ton, 
lime coal on the hill. Is. 8il. per ton; lime coal on board at the 
harbour, 4s. per Ion. 



ALLOA. 33 

As to the condition of the colliers, a very decided and evident im- 
provement has taken place since the women were relieved from the 
most disgraceful slavery of bearing the coals, and the workman 
from all charge of the coals, the instant they are weighed at 
the pit. From the circumstance of the wives remaining at home 
to attend to the domestic economy, the houses are much more 
comfortable and better furnished than they formerly were, and the 
whole style of living has been improved. 

Thei*e are three particulars worthy of notice, in connection with 
the colliers, viz. the pension or allowance to superannuated work- 
men ; the Bailie Court or Court of Equity ; the Friendly So- 
ciety or Colliery Fund, as it is commonly named. 

Formerly all colliers and salters who made salt from sea-water 
in Scotland, were attached to the property where they were born, 
that is, they were serfs or slaves, and were, with their wives and 
children, sold with the estate, from which they could not be remov- 
ed. This slavery existed until the year 1775, when it was abo- 
lished by Act of Parliament. Before its abolition, the very name 
of collier was a reproach. But since that event, the colliers have 
risen in the scale of society, and now form a very respectable class. 

While in the state of slaver}', their masters had to support them, 
when superannuated. Although the obligation to give this sup- 
port terminated, so soon as they were emancipated, the family of 
Mar continued the allowances to the colliers at Alloa, which 
amounted to from L. 200 to L. 500 a year, according to the prices 
of oatmeal. 

After the colliers obtained their freedom, they fell into a habit 
of going from one colliery to another. To obviate the inconve- 
nience thus occasioned, their employers engaged them and their 
children for a period extending from 7 to 14 years. This system, 
however, did not work well, for the idea of being engaged for so 
long a term of years, hung so heavy upon their minds, that they 
were constantly running off; and this was followed by warrants to 
apprehend and imprison them. This system at last came to such 
a height, that all engagements whatever were put an end to by the 
late John Francis Earl of Mar ; since which time, they have set- 
tled quietly at their work. 

The colliery having been let by the present Earl of Mar to a 
Company, his Lordship declined to support the poor on the 
lists. In this emergency, the Alloa Colliery Company agreed to 
pay one-third of the charity in money, another third being paid 

CLACKMANNAN. C 



34 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

from the parish funds, and the remaining; third by bis Lordship. 
Such a change as this had been contemplated many years ago, 
while John Francis Earl of Mar was alive, who suggested to 
the workmen, to make an additional weekly instalment to the then 
existing fund. To this they agreed : the society is now begin- 
ning to operate, and in a few years will be able to meet all the calb 
arising from superannuated members. 

The Colliery Bailie Court or Court of Equity. — This is one of 
the most singular and useful institutions in Scotland, and it is 
doubtful if any other of the kind exists in Scotland, or perhaps in 
Great Britain. Its history is as follows. About eighty years ago, 
Lord Thomas Erskine was proprietor of the estate of Mar, and the 
collieries. The workmen being then serfs or slaves, and grossly 
ignorant, were living without comfort, and exceedingly degraded 
in the scale of society. Quarrels frequently took place amongst 
them ; and the weak being oppressed and tyrannized over by the 
strong, the former had recourse to the Bailie of the barony of Al« 
Ida for redress, who, by his commission, had ample powers to cor- 
rect offenders, by fine or imprisonment. The business of the ba- 
ron bailie thus became very great, and much loss of work arose 
from the operatives attending from day to day at the Bailie Court 
Thomas Lord Erskine saw the evils of this system, and devised 
a novel plan, which was to supersede the Bailie Court, so far as 
regarded his colliers, and institute the Alloa Colliery Bailie Court, 
or Court of Equity, which still exists, at the present day, in vigour 
and usefulness. 

The constitution of the court was as follows : — His Lordship se- 
lected five of the most reasonable and discreet of the colliers, and 
nominated them bailies ; one of the five he made president of the 
Court, whom he named Head Bailie ; one of the workmen who 
could write, (and there were but few of them who could,) was ap- 
pointed clerk ; and the Court was completed by appointing an ac- 
tive workman in the decline of life to be the officer, to attend on the 
bailies, and give verbal summonses of appearance to those com- 
plained against. The jurisdiction of this Court was limited 
to the settlement of quarrels amongst the colliers. The bailies 
have no written appointment under Lord Erskine's hand ; they are 
uniformly common colliers, and not one grade higher in condition 
than those who are brought before them, so that the workmen are 
truly and absolutely judged by their peers. It might be supposed 
that in a society so rude, individuals would have spurned the idea 



ALLOA. 35 

of submitting to the sentence of such a court, and set the bailies 
at defiance. But it is niost remarkable, that, in no instance was 
this ever the case ; and the court goes on at the present day with 
the greatest efficiency and regularity. The Court is held now 
once in the fortnight ; when the bailies are decently dressed, and 
no one is allowed to appear before them in their ** heugh dudds,'' 
that is, in their pit clothes. 

The head bailie or preses is chosen by the proprietor of the col- 
liery. At one time, he remained in office seven years ; but it was 
found expedient to shorten the period to three jears. 

The manner of electing the four assistant bailies is this : The two 
oldest colliers who are working at the coal-wall, and are in the list 
of count makers, give in a list of twelve workmen to the proprietor, 
who they think are men of discretion, and fit for the office of bailie; 
from this list the four assistant bailies are chosen by the proprie- 
tor. 

This court of equity has now more than realized the objects 

which Lord Erskine had in view, and its influence has greatly 
tended to improve the general conduct of the men. 

The Alloa Colliers' Fund or Friendly Society.— This Society 
was instituted in the year 1775, for the purpose of raising a fund 
for payment of schoolmasters, burying of the dead, and supporting 
old and sick persons belonging to the colliery, and members of 
the society. 

The progress of this fund may be illustrated by the following 
statement : 

Received. Paid out* 

From January 1775 to January 1776, . L.I9 15 2 L.11 7 6 
For the year from Martinmas 1833 to Martin- 

maa 1834, . . 345 3 6 332 7 

Another fund was instituted in the end of the year 1833, for 
providing support to members and their widows in old age. 

So correctly were these Societies managed, that the aggregate 
surplus stock, lying at interest at 5 per cent, was at Martinmas 
1835 as follows : 

Surplus stock of the old fund, . L.251 3 11 

Surplus stock of the new fund, . 1124 6 

ToUl surplus stock, L.ld75 9 11 

The two funds are now united, and the surplus stock had, in 
1839, increased to about L.1600. 

II, — Civil History. 

In the large new edition of the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland, 
in nine volumes, folio, there are various allusions or references to 



36 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

the parishes of Tullibody and Alloa. The earliesl of these is in Vol 
ii. p. 75, relating to a period so far back as 1452 ; the remaining 
references extend to the beginning of the eighteenth century. 
There are also short notices of Alloa and other parishes in the 
1st vol. of the Macfarlane manuscript, (in the Advocates' Library, 
Edinburgh,) drawn up by Mr Alexander Rait, in the year 1722. 
In the chartulary of the abbey of Cambuskenneth, there are two 
charters which refer to the kirk of Alloa, the first entitled ** Con- 
tra Captlla de Alway^ May 20, 1409," beginning thus, ** Henry 
miseratione Divina Episcopus Sancti Andreae, capellario parocfaia- 
li ecclesie de Clakmanane salutem, &c." and the second entitled, 
^^ Instrumentum de Capella de Alway^ 15 May 1401," b^nniog 
'* In Dei nomine. Amen," &c. and referring to some arbiters choseD 
by the abbot of that day, for the interest of the convent on the 
one part, and a noble lord, Thomas Lord Erskine, Knight, oo 
the other, about the " servicio capellae de Alway, quod dictus Do- 
minus Thomas clamebat fieri dicte capelle per dictum dominum 
Abbatem ut perpetuum vicarium de Clackmanan," &c 

In the ilUfated attempt of Charles L to introduce Episcopacy 
into Scotland, in opposition to the Covenanters, the Earl of 
Montrose, just before the battle of Kilsyth, (15th August 
1645,) after remaining a night at Kinross, marched towards 
Alloa, in the neighbourhood of which he arrived in the even- 
ing, and passed the night in the wood of Tullibody. Gene- 
ral Baillie. (leader of the forces of the Covenanters,) follow- 
ed with such speed, that he encamped at Tullibody, the same 
evening his antagonist did at Kilsyth, — which he also reached 
with his troops, the following day. The Highlandei-s plundered 
the town of Alloa, and the adjoining lordships belonging to 
the Earl of Mar ; but, notwithstanding this unprovoked outrage, 
the Earl and Lord Erskine gave Montrose, the Earl of Airly, 
and the principal officers of the army, an elegant entertainment in 
the Castle of Alloa. Montrose did not delay the march of his 
army, while partaking of the hospitality of the Earl of Mar. The 
Macleans then burnt Caslle Campbell, the principal residence of 
the Argyle family in the lowlands, in requital of similar acts of 
the Marquis in the country of the Macleans. The Marquis of 
Argyle, now, also caused the house of Menstrie, the seat of the 
Earl of Stiriing, the king's secretary, and that of Airthrey, belong- 
ing to Sir John Graham of Braco, to be burnt. This was done 
by way of retaliation for the destruction of Castle Campbell by the 

4 



ALLOA. 37 

Macleans. He, moreover, sent an insolent message to the Earl 
of Mar, notifying to him, that, on the return of the army from the 
pursuit of Montrose, he, the Earl, might calculate on having his 
castle also burnt, for the hospitality he had shown Montrose. 

Burning of Alloa House. — On the 28th August 1800, Alloa 
House, that extensive range of buildings attached to the ancient 
Castle or Tower of Alloa, which was the residence of the family 
of Mar, suffered a terrible disaster. Between the hours of 11 and 
12 p. M., a most dreadful fire broke out. No engine could be 
procured for some hours, and the rivulet near the house happened 
unfortunately to be dried up. No assistance being thus within 
reach, the flames continued to rage with incredible violence, till, 
by two o'clock in the morning, the roofs had fallen in, and before 
day light, the whole house was burned to the ground. Fortu- 
nately no lives were lost. All the books and papers were saved, 
with part of the furniture, and most of the pictures. Among 
many valuable curiosities, there was then consumed a picture of 
Queen Mary, on copper, (perhaps the only genuine original then 
existing in Scotland,) gifted by her to one of her ladies before her 
execution. 

Maps, PlanSf Sfc. — A plan of the town of Alloa, from an actual 
survey, was published in 1825 by Mr John Wood. The archives 
of the family of Mar contain some curious papers, relative to the 
transactions of ancient times, and the intimacy which existed be- 
tween thai Noble family and their sovereigns. (See former Sta^ 
tistical Account.) 

Family of Mar. — The Erskines are of a very ancient family, 
and distinguished themselves in the service of their sovereigns, 
so early as the beginning of the thirteenth century. Sir William 
Erskine was an eminent adherent of King Robert Bruce. One 
of his descendants, Robert Lord Erskine, claimed the Earldom 
of Mar, to which he was served heir in 1438. 

Robert, the fourth Earl of this* family, fell at the battle of Flod- 
den Field. He was succeeded by John, the fifth Earl, who was 
Regent of Scotland, and who had the custody of his infant sove- 

* Alexander Lord Erskine, third Earl of Mar, founded a chaplainry at St Mun- 
go*8 AlUr, in the Kirk of Alloa, for the welfare of the souls of King James 111. 
and Christian Chrichton, his deceased spouse (daughter of Sir Robert Chrichton of 
Sanquhar), and for the health and prosperity of King James IV., himself, and He- 
len Home, his then wife (eldest daughter of Alexander, first Lord Home), relict of 
Sir Adam Hepburn of Hailcs, — out of a number of small rents of property in the 
town of Alloa, extending t<»gether to I-.. 8, 13s. 4d. This is confirmed by charter 
under the Great Seal, Oct. 21, 1497. 



38 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

reign, Queen Mary, whom be retained until the year 1548, when 
the estates of the kingdom ordered him to carry her to the Court 
of France. His son John, the sixth Earl, was appointed to an 
ofSce of similar trust to that of his father, and had chaise of 
James VI., afterwards King of England, when an infant He 
was greatly distinguished by James VL, and was the firiend and 
fellow-labourer of Napier of Merchiston, the Inrentor of Loga- 
rithms. 

John, the eleventh Earl of Mar, was unfortunately engaged in 
the Rebellion of 1715 ; and adhering to the fortunes of the Pre- 
tender, followed him to Rome, and afterwards to Paris and Aix- 
la-chapelle, where he died in 1732. His attainder took place io 
1716. His Lordship was twice married; first to Lady Margaret 
Hay, daughter of the Earl of KinnouU, by whom he had two sons ; 
John, who died in infancy, and Thomas Lord Erskine. He mar- 
ried, secondly. Lady Frances Pierrepont (sister to the celebrated 
Lady Mary Wortley Montague), daughter of Evelyn, Duke of 
Kingston, by whom he had one daughter. Lady Frances Erskine, 
who married her cousin, James Erskine, son of Lord Grange, 
through whom the line of the family is kept up. 

Whatever errors his lordship may have committed, it cannot be 
denied, by any one who reads the papers he has left behind him, 
that he had the general improvement of his country greatly at 
heart. It deserves to be generally known, that plans of the North 
and South Bridges, and the new town of Edinburgh, were found 
in his portfolio, after his death. His Lordship was the original 
projector of the Forth and Clyde Canal ; he also planned the new 
town of Alloa, which is rapidly extending. 

John Francis, late Earl of Mar, who died in 1825, had the 
titles and honours of the family restored to him in 1824. He 
endeared himself to his tenantry and dependents, by a life devot- 
ed to their happiness, and an unremitting attention to the pro- 
sperity of Alloa. Every view of his character entitles his name 
to bo transmitted to posterity, with the most estimable and venera- 
ble characters of his times, and with a distinction to which no ex- 
ternal rank or honour would have added any thing ; 

** Hinc tua me virtus rapit, et miranda per omnes 
Vita modos ; quod, si deesset tibi forte creato 
Nobilitas, eadem pro nobiliute fuisset.*' — Lucan. 

John Francis, the present Earl of Mar, grandson of the preceding, 
is the premier Earl; and as Viscount Fenton he is the premier 



ALLOA. 39 

Viscount of Scotland. He is also Earl of Kellie. His Lordship 
, has very much improved the appearance of the neighbourhood, by 
enclosing, with an elegant stone wall, Alloa Park, which to the 
eastward, was wholly unenclosed. This, with the building of his 
Lordship's new mansion, has, during these several years, afforded 
employment to a great number of workmen. 

In 1827, he married Philadelphia, daughter of Sir Charles 
Granville Stuart Menteath,* of Closeburn. 

William David, Earl of Mansfield, succeeded his father, Wil- 
liam Murray, the late Earl, in 1840. His Mansion-House of 
Shaw Park, and the adjoining plantation are in this parish ; but 
the greater part of his estate in this county is in the adjoining pa- 
rish of Clackmannan. When the former Statistical Account was 
written, this property belonged to the Earl of Cathcart. 

George Abercromby, BaronAbercromby ofAbouhir and Tullibody, 
is son of the gallant Sir Ralph Abercromby,f whose father, George 
Abercromby, Esq., mentioned with so much respect in the former 
Statistical Account, died in 1800, at the great age of 95 years: 
^-Sir Ralph's brother. Sir Robert, K. B., was a general in the 
army, and Governor of Edinburgh Castle ; and his other brother 
Alexander was a Senator of the College of Justice, under the 
name of Lord Abercromby — and one -of the authors of the Mirror 
and Lounger, in conjunction with Mackenzie and others. James, 
the brother of the present Peer, late M. P. for Edinburgh, 
was Master of the Mint, and in 1835, was chosen Speaker of the 
House of Commons. He is now raised to the peerage, with the 
title of Baron Dunfermline. 

Eminent Men. — David Man, the celebrated painter, sometimes 
styled the Scottish Hogarth, was born at Alloa in 1744. He 
was sent to Rome at the expense of the Mar, Abercromby, and 
Cathcart families, for his improvement in the art of painting. 
Allan was the first Briton who contended for the prize of historical 
painting at Rome, where he gained the first prize. 

Dr James Beattie. — It is said that Dr Beattie of Aberdeen, in 
the interval of the College Sessions, was employed, when a young 
man, in teaching a school at Alloa. In this situation, and in 

* Descended from Walter, third high Steward of Scotland, and who was the first 
Earl of Menteith. 

-f* As a remarkable instance of Sir Ralph Abercromby's benevolence of heart, and 
fatherly care of his people, it may be mentioned that he wrote a letter from Ant- 
werp on the 15th July 1794, to the late Mr Mitchell of Tullibody, giving directions 
as to a new school and school-house in that village. 



40 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

Others similar to it, he increased his acquaintance with the prin- 
ciples of grammar, and acquired that accurate classical know- 
ledge, for which he was afterwards so eminently distinguished. 

Dr James Fordyce^ — the eloquent author of " Sermons to young 
Women," and *' Adresses to young Men," was minister of Alloa, 
from 1753 till 1760, when he remoYed to London. 

Bishop Alexander. — Upon the east wall of the churchyard was 
a marble tablet to the memory of Bishop Alexander, who died, 
April 24, 1776, aged 82 years. This tablet is now removed to the 
new Episcopal chapel. The reputation of Bishop Alexander still 
lives in the church, and he continues to be spoken of as a penton 
of apostolical simplicity, piety, and benevolence. The small cha- 
pel, in which he officiated at Alloa, was bequeathed by him to 
bis successors in that town. He was thirty-three years Bishop 
of Dunkeld. 

Land-Owners. — The valued rent of this parish is L.7492, 19s. 
2d. Scots, and that of each proprietor, as follows, — Earl of Mar 
and Kellie, L.4189; Lord Abercromby, L. 2 153, 19s. 2d.; West 
Cambus estate, — Mrs Moubray, Mrs Reoch, and Mrs Macfarlane, 
L.401, 2s. 2d.; Earl of Mansfield, L. 145, 16s.; feuars of the 
town of Alloa, L. 601, Is. 10s. The present land rental is 
L. 11,366, and the house rental, L.8545. 

Parochial Registers. — The register of baptisms and marriages, 
as well as the books of discipline, commence in February 1609; 
but all of them prior to 1664 are in a bad state of preservation, 
having apparently been much exposed to damp, and otherwise 
carelessly kept. The books of discipline or records of session are 
incomplete, from 1746 till 1760, there being only the records of 
six years between these two periods; but from 1760 to the pre- 
sent time, they are complete. The number of births registered 
for five years from 1699, averages 103; for five years from 1799, 
the average is 138; and for the five years preceding 1840, the 
average is 119. The number of marriages for the same periods 
averages respectively 29 J, 33, and 61?. 

If any opinion of the increase of poj)ulation may be formed from 
the number of children's names recorded in five years succeeding 
1610, viz. 224, annual average, 44| ; and from the number in five 
vcars succeeding 1680, viz. 490, annual average, 98, — it must be 
supposed that the population had more than doubled in the inter- 
val of seventy years; and as there were no Dissenters at either of 
those periods, it is probable that all children were registered. It is 



ALLOA. 41 

& remarkable fact, that, in the year 1680, there were 1300 commu* 
nicants in the parish church, a number somewhat above the pre- 
sent average. Parents are becoming more and more careless as to 
the registration of their children, the want of which is frequently felt 
by individuals of every rank. It ought to be more generally known, 
that, by the 10th of Queen Anne, cap. vii. sec. 6, 1711, commonly 
called the Toleration Act, parents may be compelled to ^^ enter 
the births and christenings^ of their children in the register books 
for christenings, belonging to the respective parishes in which they 
live." 

Antiquities. — In the year 1828, an ancient Roman burying^ 
ground was discovered, when the old road between the minister's 
glebe and Mar's hill was repairing. There were then found above 
twenty sepulchral vases or urns of coarse pottery, very rudely 
ornamented. They contained burnt human bones, and were pla- 
ced in an inverted position, with the mouth resting upon a piece of 
flag-stone. There were also found two stone-coffins, each of about 
3 feet in length. They were composed of flag sandstones. It ap- 
pears that, in that remote age, those bodies which were not burnt 
were doubled and put into the stone coffins. In this instance, the 
bodies appear to have been those of men of distinction, as a pair 
of pure gold bracelets or bangles was found in each of the cof- 
fins. They were highly polished, but devoid of all ornament. 
The workmen who found these supposed them to be coffin handles 
of brass, and paid little regard to them ; but at the very instant, 
a pedlar, a stranger in the district, having joined the workmen, 
took advantage of their ignorance, and bought the one pair they 
had then got, for a few pounds. The Antiquarian Society 
of Scotland, upon learning the circumstance, put advertise- 
ments in all the newspapers, offering the pedlar a reward if he 
would return them ; but the bracelets never appeared. The other 
pair, exactly similar, were found in the custody of one of the work- 
men, from whom they were purchased by Mr Drummond Hay, 
Secretary of the Antiquarian Society, for twenty guineas ; and they 
are now lodged in the Antiquarian Museum at Edinburgh. 

The cemetery on Mar's hill is the third tumulus that has been 
discovered, within these forty years, in the immediate vicinity of 
Alloa. It is, therefore, not improbable that Alloa is the Alauna 
of the ancients, although there is little positive evidence concern- 
ing the true site of it; and that this cemetery, which rises on a 



42 CLACKMANNANSHIRE* 

gentle acclivity from the banks of the Forth, was the burial-place 
of the Roman garrison. 

About half-a mile east from Alloa, is a large upright stone, 
known by the name of the Stone Cross. On each side, the figure 
of an open cross is cut from the top to the bottom. In making a 
road near to this stone, about forty years ago, human bones were 
found ; and a few years ago, a stone coffin, composed of flag stones, 
about 3 feet long, was discovered, and two small figures of the true 
cross cut upon it. From this it is inferred, that the interment 
must have taken place early in the Christian era, when the Pagan 
rite of doubling up the body in short stone coffins had not been 
abolished. 

Old Roman coins have occasionally been found in this parish, 
and it is particularly to be noticed, that some years ago, a brass 
coin was dug up with the letters, S. C. upon the one side, and the 
words Augustus Tribunus upon the other. 

Some years ago, there was dug up in the floor of an old house 
at the village of Cambus, a large jar fiill of silver coins of Seotr 
land, England, and other countries. Some of the coins of Ger- 
many were about the size of a dollar. The greater part of these 
coins was sold by the workmen. About sixty of them were re- 
covered by the Sheriff of the county, and have, since that time, 
lain immured in the Sheriff-clerk's office. 

Alloa Tower. — This ancient edifice, which is 89 feet high, 
and its walls 11 feet thick, was built in the end of the thir- 
teenth century, by the sovereigns of Scotland. In 1365, David 
II. gave it to Lord Erskine, in exchanoje for the estate of Stra- 
gartney, in Perthshire, M»iny of our Scottish princes received 
their education here. As they were, for more than two centuries, 
the wards of the Lords Erskine and Earls of Mar, who held gene- 
rally the three principal fortresses of the kingdom, Edinburgh, Stir^ 
ling, and Dumbarton, — James VI, was occasionally brought to live 
here during his boyhood, though his more frequent residence was 
the royal castle of Stirling. The last heir of the Scottish Monar- 
chy, who was brought up here, was Henry Prince of Wales, eldest 
son of James VI., who died in his eighteenth year. Queen Mary 
spent some of her infant years in Alloa Tower; and here, in after 
life, she passed two nights, when reconciled to Lord Darnley, 
in July 1566. The very celebrated George Buchanan, the 
boast of Scotland, is believed to have resided for a considerable 



ALLOA. 43 

time in Alloa Tower, when superinteDding the education of the 
young prince. 

Modem Buildijys.^^The new church was opened in June 1819. 
It is an elegant structure, in the pointed Gothic style, 124 feet by 
78 over the walls, and ornamented by a lofty tower in the centre 
of the front, surmounted by a fine spire (built by subscription), 
which together rise to the height of 207 feet The ground on 
which the new church stands, and the area in front, were gene- 
rously given by the late John Francis Earl of Mar, with an express 
provision that it should never be made a burying*ground. The 
steeple of the old church has been allowed to remain ; and near 
it, is the cemetery of the family of Mar, which is a handsome Go- 
thic building, erected in the year 1819, on the site of the old 
church aisle, by the same nobleman, to whose generosity and spi- 
rited exertions Alloa is chiefly indebted for the ornament of its 
elegant new church. 

The Independent chapel, lately erected in Castle Street, is a 
neat building, and was opened in 18-^9. 

The Episcopal Chapel is a Gothic building, very judiciously 
planned by Mr Angus, and erected in 1839-40. 

The Academy is a handsome though small building, in the Gre- 
cian style. 

Alloa Park Mansion^ — the seat of the Earl of Mar and Kellie, 
which has just been finished, is an elegant structure in the Grecian 
style, delightfully situated on a gently rising ground fronting the 
south, about a furlong eastward of the ancient tower. The front 
of the house with the wings is 120 feet, the depth extend- 
ing backwards 185 feet, the whole forming an oblong square 
of beautiful polished ashler building, having a large court-yard in 
the interior. The external elevation, as well as the interior ar- 
rangements, reflect great credit upon the taste of his Lordship. 
The beautiful white freestone of which the house is built was 
procured from a quarry in Alloa Park. Four porters'-lodges have 
been lately erected. Garden walls with hot-houses, of which there 
are plans, are also intended to be added. 

Ttdlibody House^ — a seat of Lord Abercromby, and the birth- 
place of the gallant Sir Ralph Abercromby and others of that no- 
ble family, is pleasantly situated near the banks of the Forth, 
amidst fine old trees and surrounded by verdant parks. The house 

m 

itself is ancient, and has no pretensions to architectural beauty. 
Shaw Park House^ — formerly the property of the Cathcart fa- 



44 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

mily, now a seat of the Earl of Bilansfield, stands on elemted 
ground about two miles north of the Forth. It is a fine building, 
and the view from it is very extensive, comprising the ^in^ngs of 
the river, the castle of Stirling, Benlomond, and even Tinto b 
Clydesdale. 

There are in the parish two distilleries^ eight breweries^ fife 
woollen manufisustories, two com and fiour mills, glass-works^ foun- 
dery, brick and tile-works, a pottery, and a tan-work. 

III. — Population. 

In 1755, the population, toeording Town. ViUaget. CoUiery. Country. TottL 
to Dr Webster, wu SBiS 

1788» Py TJ!fIf^^ <a522 509 577 556 5186 

1791,1 Account, ^31^ 458 e52 560 4802 

1801, by the census, 5214 

1811, 5096 

1821, . . 5577 

1831, . . 6877 

1836, taken for the Church Commission, 6867 

In townoTAUoa, 4820 

In 1831, the population was as follows : — 

Number of males, • • • 8062 

offemales, • . d315 

Total, 6877 

Population residing in the town, • 4417 

Tullibody Tillage, . 520 

Cambus. do. 2^ 

the colliery, • 819 

the country, 896 

Number of families, . . • 1598 

inhabited houses, . . 976 

houses uninhabited and building, . 55 

Population as ascertained in June 1841 : — 

Houses. 

Inhabited, yninhabited. Building. 

Town of Alloa, ... 839 14 2 

Village of Tullibody, . . .137 

Cambus, . . 54 1 

Holton Square (Colliery), . 58 

Coalyland (Colliery), . 53 1 

All the rest of the parish, . . . 194 ' 5 1 

Toul in town and parish, quoad civUia, . 1335 21 3 
East parish of Alloa, quoad tacra, (included in 

the above), .... 448 4 2 

Families. Male. Female. Total. 

Town of Alloa, . . 1290 2646 2797 5443 

150 278 a22 600 

70 138 149 287 

63 151 144 295 

60 110 124 234 

238 528 543 1071 



Village of Tullibody, 

Cambus, . 

Holton Square (Colliery), 
Coalyland (Colliery), 

All the rest of the parish, 



Total in town and parish, quoad civilkh 

Computed number of seamen abrosd, 

£ast parish of Alloa, quoad wacra, (included in 

the above), . . .632 1227 1299 2466 



1871 3851 4079 7930 

200 



A1.L0A. 45 

There is only one noble family residing in the parish. 

The habits of the working classes have certainly improved, dur- 
ing the last forty years ; although, in many instances, the abuse of 
spirituous liquors has h^ad an opposite tendency. 

Poaching has prevailed of late years, so far as nearly to exter- 
minate certain kinds of game; such as hares and pheasants. 
Pawnbroking in one establishment has been carried on, to a greater 
or less extent, for several years. 

The number of illegitimate births in the whole parish, during 
the last few years, cannot be ascertained ; but the illicit intercourse 
of the sexes, has of late become lamentably frequent. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture, — ♦ 

The number of imperial acres under cultivation, . 4375 

Of which about 1250 acres are carse soil, the remainder what 
is termed dry field. 
The number not cultivated) but which might he embanked from 

the river Forth, and profitably added to the cultivated land, 12 

The number under wood, • . 514 

The young plantations consist mostly of oak and other hard 
wood, mixed with fir, the latter being periodically thinned out. 
The thinning, pruning, &c. appear to be under judicious manage- 
ment At present, the average rent of land is about L. 2, lOs. per 
acre. The average grazing of a cow or ox, weight about 35 stones 
imperial, costs about L. «3^ 5s. ; and a sheep Ids. 

Wages. — Ploughmen's wages rate at 9s. 6d. per week, winter 
and summer; labourers, 10s. to lis.; women's, 8d. to 9d. a^day. 
A variation of wages takes place during harvest, when women get 
2d. an hour, and men 2s. per day without victuals. Smith-work 
is sometimes performed by estimate at about L. 3, 3s. for each 
pair of horses kept on the farm, which includes all kinds of smith 
work required on it. This is about the average expense of farm 
smith work ; and the wright work upon the same principle, at the 
rate of L. 2, 10s. Saddler work, per pair of horses, is upheld at 
L. 1, 15s. a- year. 

Only a few of various kinds of sheep are grazed for the 
butcher. The breed of cattle, in general, does not belong to any 
particular class. The Ayrshire seems to be the stock aimed at. 
The short-horned breed was introduced by the late John Mou- 
bray Esq. of Cambus, from the best stocks in the south, and was 
followed up by Thomas Ritchie, Esq. Bowhouse ; the crossing of 
which with these has tended to improve the stock, in particular, 

* Kindly furnished by David Boosie and Thomas Ritchie, Esqrs. 



46 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

towards early maturity, — two-years-olds now being equal to what 
threes were formerly. 

The husbandry pursued is generally more of a cropping than a 
breeding character. Upon carse soils a sixth rotation is general- 
ly adopted, viz. 1. fallow or green crop; 2. wheat; 3. beans; 4. 
barley; 5. grass; 6. oats. Some approve of, 1. fallow or green 
crop ; 2. wheat ; 3. grass ; 4. oats ; 5. beans ; 6. wheat, barley or 
oats. The latter rotation is supposed to produce better grass, 
and is more sure after wheat than after barley which succeed- 
ed beans. The dry-field is cultivated much in the same way, 
only a few years of pasturing is sometimes introduced; and 
barley is taken when the soil is not adapted for wheat, and also a 
mixture of pease or vetches among the beans. The principal im- 
provements to be recommended are, more thorough draining, more 
j)articular attention to stock, and a more practical application of 
the artificial manures, which might prove very advantageous on 
the dryfield soils when properly drained. For the advancement 
of these improvements, a greater sympathy between landlord and 
tenant is necessary. Irrigation has not been tried, although there 
are situations in which it might be profitably introduced. The 
embankments on the river Forth, extending about six miles, are 
all of a substantial nature, and prevent about 300 acres from be- 
ing overflowed. The banks of the Devon are also embanked to 
the extent of about five miles, preventing its overflow upon about 
200 acres; and provided these are kept in good repair, nothing 
farther seems necessary, than the reclaiming of the twelve acres 
already referred to. The general duration of leases is nineteen or 
twenty-one years. The state of farm buildings is, by no means, 
in accordance with the improved state of husbandry. Inclosures 
have been made to a fair extent ; but, in some instances, they are 
ill attended to. 

The improvements recently introduced have been in-draining, as 
formerly stated, whereby an additional quantity of green crop has 
been raised, instead of fallowing ; but, not so as to supersede the 
necessity of the latter. After the great depression which took 
place on the termination of the late war, and also from the 
change of the currency in 1819, agriculture received an impetus 
from the attention of the Highland Society being directed to Clack- 
mannanshire by the Right Honourable Lord Abercromby. The 
first premium which was offered by them for the greatest extent of 
wedge-drained land in Scotland, was gained by one of his Ix)rdsbip's 



ALLOA. 47 

tenants in this parish^ — the late John Moubray, Esq. of Cam- 
bus. 

Produce. — The agricultural produce may average on carse soils, 
wheat, about 32 bushels per acre ; barley, 34 bushels ; oats, 38 
bushels; beans, 23 bushels; hay, 40 cwt. On dry-field soils, 
wheat, 25 bushels ; barley, 29 bushels ; oats, 34 bushels ; pease 
and beans, 19 bushels; hay, 24 cwt.; potatoes, 4 to 8 tons, ac- 
cording to soil and dressing ; turnips, 1 5 to 32 tons. 

Quarries. — Two quarries, one of white, and the other of a red 
stone, are now wrought in this parish, but neither of them to any 
great extent. 

Fisheries. — There are two salmon fisheries in the parish, one of 
them to the westward of Alloa ferry, belonging to the Earl of Mar 
and Kellie, and let at from L.30 to L.40 per annum. The other 
at the village of Cambus, belonging to Lord Abercromby, is let 
on lease at L.20 a year. The nets now used are coble, yaire, and 
long nets. The salmon fisheries here have been on the decline for 
some years, and have afforded an insufficient return to the tacks- 
men. There are about forty men employed. 

Clackmannanshire Union Agricultural Society, — This county anil 
district were indebted to the venerable John Francis, late Earl of 
Mar,* for many and great improvements in agriculture, and rural 
economy. By the spirited exertions of that nobleman, this small 
county, at least fifty years ago, held a prominent place among the 
most highly cultivated, north of the Tweed ; and it is remembered 
by many, that a ploughman from Alloa, about that period, was 
sent with the necessary implements, to plough before his Majesty 
King George III. The first great ploughing match in Scotland 
was held here in 1784 ; and even then, this parish was distinguish- 
ed for the breeding of stock, and other improvements. 

The Highland Society, in 1827, having offered premiums 
for improving the breed of cattle, caused the formation in 1828 
of the present Agricultural Society, who made choice of Robert 
Bruce, Esq. of Kennet, as their president. To this gentleman 
the society have all along been much indebted for the counte- 
nance given by him to agriculture in general, and for keeping alive 
a spirit of competition and enterprise, by his assiduous care and 

* This nobleman, many years ago, with reluctance, turned out the tenant of the 
£Eirm now called King of Moors, whose name was Donaldson, on account of his in- 
vincible indolence, and ayersion to improvement. He was the lineal descendant of the 
person whom King James V. designated ''*' King of the Moors :*' — someof thegraod- 
children of this last representative of Majesty are still in Alloa, and when at school, 
about twenty years ago, were generally known by the name of *< King.** 



48 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

attention to its true interests. Mr Bruce has, for a number 
of years, given premiums for the best cultivated turnip-fields 
of various sizes, according to the extent of the farm ; which 
is improving the cultivation of that valuable root in this district. 
Lord Abercromby has not neglected to carry forward what, he 
saw, would be highly beneficial to the district, by giving pre- 
miums for the best cultivated farms of two classes, — the one 
below, and the other above a hundred acres. His Lordship also 
assisted the Society in their efibrts to improve the breed of hor- 
ses, by contributing' to a premium for the best draught stalliotu 
Other gentlemen in the neighbourhood also give premiums for 
stock, &c. through the Society, and the competition thus created 
has caused a spirited and enterprising rivalry amongst the breed- 
ers of the various descriptions of stock, which has tended much to 
their improvement. 

At a ploughing match in spring 1839, there were 107 ploughs, 
a number which, it is believed, has not been attained by any other 
Society whatever. 

Clackmannanshire Horticultural Society^ instituted in 1835, has 
forits object, not only to encourage the culture of useful and or- 
namental plants, including flowers, fruits, and vegetables, but also 
to disseminate botanical and horticultural knowledge. For this 
last purpose, there is a library consisting of books on both these 
subjects, and on rural economy in general. 

Manufactures. — The chief of these is the woollen, which was 
not carried on to any great extent, until of late years, when great 
additions were made to some of the mills. Several new ones have 
lately been erected on a very large scale ; and at present, there are 
six extensive factories, four of which are driven by steam. The 
principal articles manufactured are yarns, plaiding, shawls, tar- 
tans, druggets, blankets, and cloths of various descriptions. The 
following statements, from information kindly furnished by some of 
the principal manufacturers, will give some idea of the extent of 
the woollen manufacture in this parish, for the year 1839; 

Number of men employed, . 190 

women, . 72 

boys and girls, . 89 

Amount of wages paid weekly, L.190. 
Quantity of wool manufuctUTCil, 483,000 lb&. 
Value when manufactured, L.71,400. 
Hard and soft soap consumed yearly, 45,230 lbs. L.740. 
Alkalies, dye stuffs, and oils, L. 3,000. 
Number of spindles used in spinning, 6,900. 
Quantity of yarn manufactured, 141,900 spindles. 

Capital invested in the trade, consisting of machinery, raw material, and manu&ctur- 
ed goods, L. 42,800. 



ALLOA. 49 

Connected with the large works at Keiller^s Brae is a manufac* 
tory of machinery on an extensive scale. 

Distilleries. — There have long been in the parish two distilleries, 
the one at Carsebridge, and the other at Cambus, which are both 
in active and constant operation. The following particulars re- 
specting them have been communicated by the proprietors. At 
the Cambus distillery, there are about 400 cattle fed ; about 
374 quarters of malt are consumed weekly, making 6000 gallons 
of spirits per week, or 300,000 gallons per annum ; there are sixty 
men employed at the works. The amount of duty paid is as foI« 
lows: 

Distilling duty per anniuD, . L. 50,000 

Malt duty do. . . 10,000 



L. 00,000 
Deduct drawback on malt, . 9.000 



Toul per annum, . L. 51,000 

Carsebridge distillery is nearly on the same scale as the Cam- 
bus ; and the amount of duties paid by each is nearly the same, 
including the duty on malt and spirits. 

Tannery f Sfc, — There is an extensive tan and currying work in 
Tullibody, where leather, &c. is manufactured to the value of 
L. 20,000 per annum. The making of glue is also carried on by 
the same company ; and they have also commenced the grinding 
of bones for manure, by tneans of machinery driven by steam. At 
these works, are constantly employed from 30 to 40 men. Their 
employment is deemed a peculiarly healthy one ; and it has long 
been observed, that pulmonary complaints are unknown among 
them. 

Glass-Works. — These works commenced at an early period, for 
the making of bottles, and are said to have been first worked by 
a Danish company. The buildings are extensive, covering a space 
of about six imperial acres. They are most conveniently situated 
for trade ; and coals, at a very easy rate, are conveyed from the 
pits to the furnaces, by a railway of the most approved construc- 
tion. There is a pier adjoining to the works. A Joint Stock Com- 
pany, in 1825, erected three additional cones, and other buildings ; 
when they continued the making of bottles and added that of flint 
glass of a quality equal to the goods of Newcastle. This Company 
continued their operations, till about 1832, Another Company then 
purchased the works ; when, in addition to the making of bottles, 
they commenced the manufacture of crown glass on an extensive 

CLACKMANNAN. D 



to CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

• scale ; at which time, there was none made elsewhere in Scotland. 
Above 200 men were then employed, — adding much to the re- 
venue, and prosperity of the town of Alloa. Since the beginning 
of 1839, the making of crown glass has been discontinued, and 
the works, of late, have been on rather a reduced scale, but are 
about to be extended. 

The Foundery and Steam Engine Manufactory was erected in 
1832, and gives employment to about 100 men. 

Brick and Tile Works. — Bricks and tiles have been articles of 
-manufacture at Alloa, for a long period of ye^rs ; but it was not till 
the year 1815, that the works were carried on to any great ex- 
tent. The present proprietor enlarged the works considera- 
bly ; improving the mode of manufacture, and making fire bricks 
for the first time in the district, and which are reckoned not infe- 
rior to those produced at Stourbridge. It was here, ^e believe, 
that steam power was first introduced (in Scotland), in preparing 
.the clay used in the manufacture of common bricks and tiles, as 
well as the London system of brick-making. Not fewer than fbrtj 
hands are employed at these works, where there is a convenient 
wharf, from which the difierent articles are transported to all parts 
of the world. 

Pottery. — In addition to the former pottery, a new one has lately 
been built, at which the manufacturing of white and coloured ware 
in all its branches is carried on. 

Gas-Work. — In the year 1828, a gas- work was erected at the 
river side by subscription, amounting to L. 3000, in shares of 
L. 10. By this means the town is lighted. Gas-pipes are also 
laid to places in the neigbourhood, particularly to Cambus distil- 
lery, a distance of two miles, where there are 100 burners. The 
price of shares has risen to about L. 14 each, so that a fair re- 
muneration is likely to be secured to the subscribers. Gas is sold 
at the rate of 12s. per 1000 cubic feet, subject to a discount ac- 
cording to the quantity consumed. The gas made here is allow- 
ed to be of first-rate quality. 

Skip- Building, — The trade of ship-building has been long and 
successfully prosecuted here. Vessels pf from 300 to 400 tons 
are frequently built, and last year a fine vessel, of 450 tons bur- 
den, was launched, intended for the East India trade. There is 
a dry dock, at which vessels are repaired. Boats are also built. 
The various departments employ continually about fifty men. 

Rope and Sail-Making. — This branch of trade is also of long 



ALLOA. 51 

standinor, and is extensiYe, employing about 8 men in summer, 
and about 24 during the winter. 

Mills. — The mills at Alloa are for grinding wheat, oats, and 
malt, and are capable of grinding about 250 quarters a-day. 
They are driven by two water wheels, and occasionally by steam 
when water is deficient A thrashing-mill is driven by ihe same 
machinery. There are also mills on a less extensive scale, for 
the same purposes at Cambus. There are many thrdshing-mills 
in the parish, some of which are driven by steam. 

Tobacco and snuff were formerly manufactured here to a great 
extent, — what was called Alloa pig- tail having been well known 
in London. The trade in these is still considerable. 

Breweries. — At the eight breweries in the parish, about 22,000 
quarters of malt are consumed annually, the duty on which is 
L. 22,7a3, 6s. 8d. The quantity of ale made amounts to 80,000 
barrels : it is exported to England, the continent. North and South 
America, the East and West Indies, and Australia. Alloa has 
long been celebrated for the superior quality of its ale, which was 
first brought into notice by the late Mr Robert Meiklejohn. 

Customs^ Shipping^ and Trade.* — About the year 1710, Alloa 
was made a port, where vessels were registered, and all other cus- 
tom-house business transacted ; and it appears that, from that pe- 
riod to the close of the century, a very considerable trade was 
carried on between it and Holland, the Baltic, and Portugal ; but 
in consequence of the bonding system having been introduced 
with the sanction of Parliament, at the larger ports, Alloa as well 
as all smaller ports fell off in their importations from foreign parts. 
The direct importations have, however, of late years increased ; 
the bonding of timber and all other goods being now allowed at 
this port, we may confidently look forward to a great increase in 
trade from the Baltic, Holland, &c. The locality is peculiarly 
favourable for carrying on an extensive traffic, being in the imme- 
diate vicinity of large public works ; and Stirling (a branch of the 
port of Alloa), being in itself populous and wealthy, as well as 
being the entrance lo the West Highlands, affords advantages to 
spirited and enterprizing merchants, for carrying on a profitable 
trade in Baltic and Dutch produce, &c. 

Alloa has commodious quays at which vessels of a large size can 
lie with safety, the depth of water being at stream-tides 22, and 
at neap-tides 14 or 15 feet The dead water at low ebb in spring- 

• Kindly furnished by James H. Cobban, Esq. Collector of Customs. 



52 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

tides at Alloa ferry, is about 10 feet in the middle of tbc rifer. 
The amount of registered tonnage at Alloa (including ships belong- 
ing to Kincardine and Stirling), is upwards of 19,000 tons, which 
is larger than at any port in the Firth, except Leith, and even that 
port does not much exceed in this respect. The registered ton- 
nage strictly belonging to Alloa is 9662 tons, and the ships are of 
a very superior class, being employed in trading to every quarter of 
the globe. It may be remarked that the first importation of tea 
to any port on the east of Scotland, after the China trade was 
thrown open, was by the ship " Isabella" of Alloa, of 423 tons. 
The cargo was landed at I^ith. 

There is a very considerable coasting-trade carried on here, both 
inwards and outward?. The number of vessels entered inwards 
during the year 1838, was 600, and the number cleared outwards 
1250. The importations coastwise, consist chiefly of corn for 
the use of the numerous distilleries and breweries ; wool, and ful- 
ler's-earth for the woollen manufactures in the neighbourhood, and 
also groceries, wines, teas, 8ic. from London, Leith, and Glasgow. 
The exports consist of coals (of which about 80,000 tons were 
shipped during the year 1838, coastwise and to foreign ports), pig- 
iron, woollen manufactures, glass, ale, whisky, leather, fire-bricks, 
roofing-tiles, drain-tiics, and common bricks. The importations 
from foreign ports consist of timber, battens, deals, hemp, oak- 
bark, bones for agricultural purposes, &c. Altogether, we would 
say, that Alloa, as to its shipping and trade, is in a very prospe- 
rous condition, with every prospect of its further increase. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Toton^ Markets^ Sfc. — The town of Alloa was noted so early as the 
time of King Robert Bruce. It is under the jurisdiction of a ba- 
ron bailie, appointed by the Earl of Mar and Kellie. Being vir- 
tually the county town, the Sheriff and Justice of Peace Courts 
are held here ; and it is the polling place for the county of Clack- 
mannan, in the election of a Member of Parliament. The prin- 
cipal business of the surrounding district is carried on here. There 
are markets on Wednesday and Saturday, the latter of which only 
is well attended. The plan of the town is irregular ; but in the 
principal streets, most of the old houses have been replaced by 
handsome buildings, and many of the shops are of peculiar ele- 
gance. John Street, planned by John Earl of Mar, in the begin- 
ning of the last century, is about 80 feet broad. It leads to the 
harbour, terminating in a beautiful gravel walk, with a row of lime 



ALLOA. 53 

trees on each side. The streets are well paved and regularly 
cleaned, with the exception of the old town, part of which is in a 
ruinous state. The town is extending rapidly toward the west, 
where several elegant villas have been erected. 

Means of Communication. — Besides the post-office twice every 
day, there is a daily communication with Edinburgh, Stirling, and 
all the towns on the Firth, by steam-packets. A coach runs daily 
between Alloa and Glasgow, by way ^of Falkirk ; and another runs 
by way of Stirling, for the Glasgow canal boats. There is one 
weekly carrier for Edinburgh, and two for Glasgow, who generally 
go twice a- week. There are, besides, carriers from Alloa to all 
the principal towns in the neighbourhood. There are about twelve 
miles of turnpike- road in the parish. All the bridges are in good 
order, and the fences generally well kept. 

The revenue of the Post- Office, on an average of three years, 
preceding the commencement of the penny postage, may be stated 
at L. 1.500. Since the alteration in the rates of postage, the num- 
ber of letters has increased threefold, and averages at least 200Q 
weekly. 

Banks. — There are in the town branches of the Commercial 
Bank, the Western Bank, and the Glasgow Union Bank; for the 
last of which, an elegant and substantial building has lately beei^ 
erected. 

Stamp-Office. — The amount of the sale of stamps in the Stamp- 
OflBce at Alloa, for five years ending 21st March 1840, was 
L.8d52, Ids., being an average of about L.1770 per annum. 

Mechanical Ingenuity. — Michael Stirling, who resided at Cam- 
bus, in this parish, was the first in Scotland that thought of thrash- 
ing by machinery. He invented what is called a " scutch mill," 
a rude machine, long ago disused. 

The first eflective thrashing-machine in Scotland was con- 
structed, in 1787, by Mr George Meikle, the son of its celebrated 
inventor; both of whom resided here. The last thrashing-machine 
at which old Meikle himself worked was lately in complete repair, 
upon the estate of Mar. Mr Meikle, Junior, made a decided im- 
provement upon what has been called the Persian wheel; and 
Mr Whitworth, the celebrated engineer, adopted, without hesita- 
tion, the improvement suggested by Mr Meikle, in preference to 
his own, in the construction of a wheel for carrying off the moss at 
Blair Drummond. 

Mr James Brownhill, miller at Alloa, first applied the stones. 



54 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

of the Abbey Craig, near Stirling, to the purpose of grindiog 
wheat into flour. The Clackmannanshire millstones are a useful 
substitute for the French bur-stones, which could not be obtained 
in Britain during the late war ; and they are now considered supe- 
rior in some respects to the French ones. Many hundreds of tbem 
are now used in different parts of England and Scotland. They 
are sold at from L. 16, 1 6s. to L.21 a pair, whereas bur-stones 
cost about L. 63. The ingenious individual here mentioned was 
rewarded for his discovery by the Society for the Encouragment 
of the Arts, who presented him with L.105.* 

The Village of Tullibody, -f — This village is situated about two 
miles to the west of Alloa, and claims a comparatively high anti- 
quity. It is said to be coeval with the accessiog of Kenneth King 
of the Scots, about the year of our Lord 834. On succeeding to 
the throne, this monarch, as may well be conceived, felt highly 
exasperated at the conduct of the Picts towards his father, whom 
they put to death, and whose head they affixed to the gate of their 
capital. Determined on revenge, and supported by the nobles, he 
proceeded forthwith against the enemy. Druskein, the Pictish 
monarch, aware of the gathering storm, took every precautionary 
step to avert its effects. He summoned to his standard every Pict 
capable of bearing arms, and provided a large body of English 
auxiliaries. Assembling at Maiden Castle, a fortified place in Lo- 
thian, and at that time in his possession, he marched in a west- 
erly direction, and, ordering supplies at Camelon, proceeded to 
Stirling, where he crossed the Forth, intending to encamp on its 
northern bank. In the meantime, Kenneth had approached to 
the. distance of about five miles from Stiriinsf ; and, receiving in- 
telligence of the position and strength of the enemy, he assem- 
bled his nobles and troops on the rising crofts on the east of the 
river Devon. Here, with the greatest solemnity, he and they took 
an oath, t!)at they would not lay down their arms until either they 
or their adversaries fell. Here also they encamped for the nighu 

Next morning at day. break, Kenneth, with all his forces, 
proceeded westward, and, coming up with the enemy, attacked 
them with such skill and impetuosity, that in a few hours they 
were totally routed, with immense slaughter. In the evening, he 

• Mr Henry Hutchison, Manager of the Alloa Rope- works, invented a very inge- 
nious machine, by which can be solved many of the astronomic^d problems usually 
solved by the terrestrial and celestial globes. 

t In thi> part of tho article, the writer has been much indebted to the as«»t*r.ct 
•f the Rev. George Hislop 



ALLOA. 55 

returned with his elated troops to the fields which they had occu<« 
pied in the morning; and as a mark of gratitude for this signal vic- 
tory over his hereditary foe, and at the same time, as a memorial 
of the distinguished bravery and loyalty of the people, he caused 
a stone to be erected, where the royal standard then stood, observ- 
ing the ceremonial of anointing the pillar and making a vow. The 
stone was removed some years ago. But the spot is well known 
to the neighbourhood, and still receives the name of *^ the stan'ta' 
stane." A little to the east of the field where the main body of his 
army was encamped, he also founded a village, which he called 
** Tirly-bothy," (since varied into Tullibodie and Tullibody,) a 
name originally signifying " the oath of the croft." Such was 
the origin of this village. For upwards of three centuries subse* 
quent to the period mentioned, little of the history is known. 

Tullibody Church. — This small but venerable edifice, stands a 
little to the north of the village. It was built by David I. King of 
Scotland, in the year 1 149. By charter, bearing the same date, 
he granted as a provision for its priest, certain lands in the neigh- 
bourhood and Inches (islands) in the Firth of Forth ; and the 
pious monarch ordained that it should be subordinate to the rich 
and splendid abbey of Cambuskenneth, which, two years before, 
he had built on the very spot where his royal ancestor, Kenneth, 
gave the fatal blow to the Pictish dominion.* 

For upwards of 400 years the rites of the Roman Catholic faith 
were celebrated in this church ; and, as a necessary consequence, 
its deep shades of ignorance and superstition overspread the adja- 
cent plains. It is recorded that: the church was unroofed by 
the French in 1559. These, under Monsieur D'Oysel, were 
stationed on the coast of Fife ; and hearing of the arrival of the 
English fleet, they were thrown into such alarm that they thought 
of nothing but immediate retreat. They proceeded accordingly 
-towards Stirling, intending there to cross the Forth. Kirkcaldy 
of Grange determined to arrest or at least retard their progress, 
broke down the bridge of Tullibody over the Devon, about 
a mile to the west of the village. Finding it impassable, they 
unroofed the church, employing the materials to cover the breach 

* Cambuskenneth signifies the creek or haven of Kenneth ; the word *^ Cambus** 
being from the ancient British CamuSy a bay, creak, or haven ; unless, as some 
suppose, it be derived from the Latin word campus^ a plain or field. The churches, 
with their tithes and pertinents belonging to this abbey, were those of Clackmannsn 
with its chapels, Tillicoultry, Kincardine, St Ninians with its chapels, Alva, Tulli- 
body, with iu chapels at Alloa, &c. Ihe first abbot was called Alfredius. 



56 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

which Kirkcaldy had made. It seems probable from this oTeam- 
stance, that, for some time before, the church had ceased to be 
in communion with the church of Rome ; otherwise her adhe- 
rents would not have committed upon it this act of deaecratioD and 
impiety. 

The truth is, that in this neighbourhood, as throughout the 
country at large, the Roman Catholic faith had by this time fal- 
len into very general contempt. That this must haTe been tbe 
case is proved by the following tradition connected with the *' Mai- 
den Stone," — a ponderous stone coffin still existing here. 

About the year 1449, Miss Martha Wishart, only daughter 
of the laird of Mireton, a lady of great beauty and accomplish- 
ments, fell deeply in love with Mr Peter Beaton, at that tine 
priest of Tullibody. The passion was reciprocated by him. But 
his intentions were not honourable ; and when this was discovered, 
the circumstance affected her sensibilities so much that her health 
gave way. She died, leaving express injunctions that her remains 
should be deposited in a stone coffin, to be placed at the door of 
the church, in order that the perfidious priest should behold this 
memorial of his wickedness every time he passed to dischaige the 
duties of his office. It is not difficult to conceive the sensatioB 
which, even in that age, such conduct, on the part of tbe priest, 
would produce in alienating the minds of the people from the Ro- 
mish Church. The depravity of that 'church had in truth be- 
come so great as to revolt even some of her own functionaries. 
Thus, we are informed that, in the year 1588, Thomas Forrest, 
vicar of Dollar, a man of great learning and piety, espoused the 
principles of the Reformation, and publicly exposed the errors and 
corruptions of Popery. He was apprehended, and suffered martyr- 
dom for the truth. But the blood of martyrs is the seed of the church. 
This transaction roused the indignation of Thomas Locklaw, at 
that time priest of Tullibody ; and led him to inquire into the prin- 
ciples espoused by his late brother in the faith, in common with re- 
formers in general. The consequence was, thathe adopted thesame 
principles, and became one of the bitterest enemies of the Romish 
Church. Among other things, he inquired into the subject of 
marriage ; and finding it warranted, not only by the express de- 
clarations of Scripture, but by reason, he gave practical expres- 
sion to his belief, by actually entering into the marriage relation. 
We are informed that the superior clergy were, in consequence, 
so much exasperated, that, at their instance, three or four men were 



ALLOA. 57 

publicly put to death at^ Stirling, for the simple offence of attend- 
ing that marriage and eating flesh in Lent. Locklaw himself, along 
with Robert Logrie, canon regular of Cambuskenneth, who also 
had renounced the Romish religion, retired into England, and, in 
common with the persecuted of the time, sought an asylum under 
the protecting auspices of the mild and pious Edward VL This 
was the last priest who oflBciated in the church of Tullibody. 

In the dismantled condition in which it was left by the French, the 
church of Tullibody remained till about* the middle of last century, 
when it was roofed in, and in other respects improved by George 
Abercromby, Esq. of Tullibody. It has since been employed as 
a cemetery to the family. About six years ago, it was fitted up 
by subscription as a preaching-station for the benefit of the vil- 
lage and neighbourhood, and especially of those who, from age and 
other causes, are prevented from attending their places of worship 
in Alloa. 

Ecdeiiastical State, — Alloa was formerly a chapel dependent 
on the parish church of Tullibody ; but afterwards became a se*> 
parate parish ; and, says Bishop Keith, <* swallowed up the mo- 
ther church." 

The Act of Assembly uniting Tullibody with Alloa is to be 
found in the Book of the Universal Kirk, Assembly 1600« 
From that Act, it appears that Alloa was a chapel, and Tul- 
libody a kirk, — that the people of Tullibody had, by order of 
the Presbytery of Stirling, rebuilt the kirk, and chosen a minis- 
ter, who, for want of adequate support, was forced to leave 
them ; that Tullibody was a distinct parish, containing 400 
or 500 communicants ; that the Abbot of Cambuskenneth drew 
all the teinds of Tullibody ; and that the Earl of Mar furnished 
a sufficient stipend to the minister officiating at Alloa. 

The church of Alloa being at the west end of the town is con- 
veniently placed for the great bulk of the population. The old 
church, which, for more than seventy years past, had been ac- 
counted much too small for the congregation, in August 1815, 
was declared ruinous, and the new one was thereafter built. 

Benefactions. — In the Advocates* Library, there is a MS. 
volume containing a list of all the pious donations and mortifications 
of Scotland from the reign of James I., a. d. 1424, to 1702; io 
which is to be found a charter of confirmation of a mortification 
made by Alexander Lord Erskine to a chaplain at St Mungo's 
altar in the kirk of Allowav, of a number of small rents out of 




CUCK3U5X A>S U I a E . 



both 10 the Established churches, 



"j^aMSKieCf in the parish, supported by church- 

T«riy income of which is about L. 40. 






58 

the town of 
together to L- 
In the year 
left some houE 
of L. 600 then j^y»iU|i«B 
gow, was to be^plitfi^piHHl contributions to which may amount to 
ter. The L. 6^ lijii Am Societies, the congregations in connection 
the partners, ai|^tiiAavt collected last year for religious and cha- 
rent of the hour^^Mtkimn of L220;* the first congregation in 

was compensate^gkii^"^'^^^^'^^®^y°^^9 L.281; and the se- 

Her ladyship, bvyy|^ 

for making an wi^jj^nU^^ clei^ymen of the parish of Alloa 

dation to the poo 

the remaining sea 

to be applied first 

repair, and the surjj! 

minister. Her lad 

stipend to an assistu 

nating and presentin 

of the proprietor of 
The church is se. 

tings for paupers wh 

are also 246 sittings 

the late Lady Charlo 
The manse was bul 
repaired. 

The glebe consists 
stipend is 19 chalders, 
fiars of the county ; wi 
elements. The last au 
is but a small amount o: 
The parish minister is ai 
pcnse of working and dri^ 

Tiie causes of the sepa» — 
sociate Synod and the E 
Rev. John Wright, minL 



of the present existing records : Epis- 

DiBCUison, from 1609 to 1620; Mr John 

Mr James Wright, admitted on 23d 

iu^ Mr George Turnbull, admitted 

i; Mr Joiia Logan, admitted on 2d May 



km Kilmadock. Prior to Mr Lo. 
m IB front of the manse, where the 
stands, having been then feued 
Taylor was translated from Til- 
^m 74 December 1725 ; and in March 
Tdbooth Church, Edinburgh. Mr 



^ • Of the four silver communion 
tion : *'• 'I'liis cup was dedicaled to 
of Mr Robert Jiilinstun, mercliaut U 
nion plate is thus ini>cril>e(l, *' Tliis , 
Areskiuc, daughter to the Earle of . 
for that end, before her death ; and mi 



eaiMl the parish of Alford, in Aber- 

or about 1750, and was set- 
^ the opposition of the pa- 
much attached to 
Pordyoe, who was 
went to London in 
on the 25th 
James Maz« 
by the 

to 

deigy 
to 





ALLOA. 59 

has been recently received as a member of the Presbytery of Stir- 
ling ; and that body has allotted him a parochial district under 
the name of the East Parish of Alloa. Mr Wright's stipend is 
paid by the seaiUrents and collections. By the Constitution of the 
Church, the minimum stipend was L. 100, which the managers 
were bound to pay ; but Mr Wright always receives a considerable 
sum additional. 

The Dissenting places of worship in the parish are as follows : 
Two churches belonging to the United Associate Synod; one 
Scottish Episcopal chapel ; one in connection with the Congre- 
gational Union ; one belonging to the Methodists ; one belonging 
to the New Jerusalem Church. The stipends of the Dissenting 
ministers are paid from the proceeds of the seat-rents and collec- 
tions made at the church doors. The amount of stipend of the 
minister of the first Secession Congregation is L> 142, with an 
additional gratuity for several years back, of L.20 a year, be- 
sides house and garden, and an allowance for sacramental ex- 
penses; that of the minister of the second, L. 125 a-year, with a 
house and garden, besides payment of taxes, an annual rate to a 
widows' fund, and an allowance for sacramental purposes. 







No. of persons 








DiflPerent d •• 




of 


all ages pro- 








nominations in 


No. of. 


fessing to belong 


No. of 


No. of 


No. of 


the parish. 


families. 


to 


each denom. 


sittings. 
1561 


sittings let. < 


commun 


Parish church, 


766 


2968 


246 


1210 


Tallibody church. 
East Parish churchy 


117 


• 


580 


230 


seats free. 


130 


, 190 


m 


760 


603 


243 


333 


Ist United Secession, 300 


m 


1350 


722 


660 


650 


2d Do. do. 


200 


m 


850 


640 


400 


450 


Episcopalians, 


79 


- 


... • 


350 


220 


68 


Independents, 


80 


- 


300 


428 


seats free. 


90 


Metho<listA, 


12 


• 


60 


300 


40 


25 


New Jerusalem church, 6* 


- 


26 


100 


••• 


16 



Prior to 18i38, there were 62 Roman Catholic families, con- 
sisting of 112 individuals, residing in the parish. Since that time 
there are not more than 20 individuals of that denomination remain* 
ing in the parish. 

* There have existed in Alloa a few readers of the writings of the New Jerusalem 
church fur about forty years. About the year 1798, Messrs Wright and Hands, n^ embers 
of it from London, fettled at Airlhrcy, near Stirling, for the purpose of working a 
mine of copper ore, for the reducing of which to a meuUic stale they had an establish* 
ment in Alloa. After two or three years trial, owing to the mines not yielding a suf. 
ficient quantity of pure metal to cover the expense of working it, Messrs Wright and 
Hands gave up the undertaking. On leaving Alloa, they presented the readers with 
a few New. Church works, which formed the commencement of their present library. 



6Q CLACKMANNAKSHiae. 

. Di?ine service is well attended both in tbe Established churchesi 
and in the Dissenting chapels. 

There is a Bible Society in the parish, supported by church- 
men and Dissenters,^^tbe yearly income of which is about L.4(l. 
There is also a Religious Tract Society, supported by all persua- 
sions, the average annual contributions to which may amount to 
L. 20. Besides these Societies, the congregations in connection 
with the Establishment collected last year for religious and cha- 
ritable purposes, the sum of L. 220 ;* the first congrregation in 
connection with the United Associate synod, L. 281 ; and the se* 
cond, L.94, 10s. 

The following is a list of the clei^ymen of the parish of Alloa 
from the commencement of the present existing records :— Epis- 
copalian, Mr James Duncanson, from 1609 to 1620; Mr John 
Craigingelt, 1621 to 166- ; Mr James Wright, admitted on 2ad 
November 1664. — Presbyterian, Mr George Tumbull, admitted 
on 26th September 1690 ; Mr John Logan, admitted on 2d May 
1704. 

Mr Logan was translated from Kilmadock. Prior to Mr Lo- 
gan's induction, the glebe was in front of the manse, where -the 
Broad Street, or John Street, now stands, having been then feued 
by John Earl of Mar. Mr John Taylor was translated from Til- 
licoultry, and was admitted on 7th December 1725 ; and in March 
1735, he was translated to the Tolbooth Church, Edinburgh. Mr 
James Gordon was translated from the parish of Alford, in Aber- 
deenshire, in 1736. 

Mr James Syme was inducted in or about 1750, and was set- 
tled by military force, in consequence of the opposition of the pa- 
rishioners, although afterwards they became much attached to 
him. Mr Syme was succeeded by Dr James Fordyce, who was 
translated from Brechin in October 1753, and went to London in 
1760, when he was succeeded by Mr James Frame on the 25th 
September 1760. Mr Frame was succeeded by Mr James Max- 
ton on the 8th September 1803; and he was succeeded by tbe 
present incumbent on the 26th November 1828. 

We have no records of the Episcopal church of Alloa prior to 
May 1743, when, upon the death of Bishop Rattray, the clergy 
of Dunkeld elected Mr John Alexander, presbyter at Alloa, to 
succeed him in the Episcopal office. After Bishop Alexander, suc- 
ceeded Mr Alexander Cruickshanks, who was about fifteen years 

* Exclusive of the collections for the poor. 



ALLOA. 61 

in that charge here ; whence he was translated to Muthil, where he 
died, leaving an excellent character. He was succeeded by Mr 
Rhind, who died in 1806. The congregation, then, had the ser- 
Tice of the Episcopal church performed for some years (having no 
minister) by the Rev. Dr Russell, now Bishop of Glasgow, and 
some others. The first minister subsequently settled amongst them 
was the Rev. John Hunter in 1837, who is the present incumbent. 
Education. — In the town of Alloa, there are ten schools, in- 
cluding the parish school and the academy. The parish school- 
master has the maximum salary, L. 34, 4s. 4^d., with an allowance of 
L. 16 per annum in lieu of bouse and garden ; which sum, now that 
rents have risen so exorbitantly high, is insufficient to procure him 
such accommodation as is enjoyed by his brethren in any of the 
neighbouring parishes. The school fees may amount to about L.25 
per annum. The branches taught are, English reading, at ds. per 
quarter; with writing and English grammar, 4s. ; with arithmetic, 
5s. ; any or all of these with Latin, 7s. 6d. ; with French, Greek, 
or Italian, 10s. 6d. ; also practical mathematics, geography, book- 
keeping, or navigation, 10s. 6d. per quarter; or L. 1, Is. each, 
per course. At Alloa Academy, which was erected by subscrip- 
tion in 1824, the branches taught by the present rector, Mr Bruce, 
are, English reading, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, book- 
keeping, geography, Latin, Greek, French, Algebra ; the various 
departments of practical and theoretical mathematics, including 
the higher departments of analytical geometry, trigonometry, and 
theoretical mechanics. The fees vary from 5s. to lis. 6d. per 
quarter ; 2s. of which, for each pupil, goes to the support of an as«i> 
sistant teacher. There is an annual subscription to pay the feu- 
duty, and defray the expense of repairs ; and for a considerable 
time also a small sum was paid as a Salary to the teacher ; but this 
is not permanent. There are three other schools in the villages, 
viz. the Colliery school, one at Tullibody, and one at Cambus, 
Connected with the colliery is an excellent school- house, built in 
1819, at the sole expense of the late John Francis Earl of Mar. 
At last examination, it was attended by 180 scholars. The teach- 
er has a salary of about L.21, varying with the^r^, arising from a 
bequest of the late lady Charlotte Erskine ; besides an allowance in 
money from the colliery fiind ; a very good dwelling-house and 
garden, and free coals. He has also a piece of ground, for only a 
small portion of which he has to pay any rent, as upwards of an 
acre of it is freely appropriated to his use, through the liberality 



69 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

of the present coal company. He teaches a Sabbath school the 
scholars attending which vary from upwards of 50 to 80. 

Lord Abercromby gives a school-housoi dwelling-house, and 
garden, with an acre of land, and a salary of about L. 6 per annum, 
to the schoolmaster of Tullibody. In the town, there are two charity 
schools, at which 140 children are taught English reading gratui- 
tously, and writing on paying a penny a week. One of them is 
supported entirely by public subscription ; the other by the same 
means,' and by the interest of L» 300, bequeathed for that purpose, 
by the late Lady Charlotte Erskine. There is a boarding-school 
for young ladies in the town ; and three other day-schools con- 
ducted by females, where the usual branches are . taught, besides 
plain and ornamental needle^worL The number of pupils attend- 
ing all the day-schools in the parish in March last was 1004; 
at evening schools 120 ; and at ten Sabbath schools, the number 
now attending is 760. An Infant School on a large scale is about 
to be erected in the town, the greater part of the money necessary 
for the purpose being already subscribed. 

The number of the young between six and fifteen years of age 
who cannot read or write, it is impossible to ascertain ; but it is 
not supposed, that there are any persons natives of this parish up- 
wards of fifteen years of age, who cannot read, and probably not 
a great number, except old people, who cannot also write. The 
people, in general, appear alive to the benefits of education ; and 
it is believed that they are improving in morals and religion. 

Literature. — The dackmannanshire Library was founded at 
Alloa in the year 1797, and now contains upwards of 1500 vo- 
lumes, which have been judiciously selected. Its only source of 
increase is an annual subscription of 10s. from each subscriber. 
There are two libraries in connection with the United Secession 
Congregations, and one in connection with the Established Church, 
lately founded by the Countess of Mar and Kellie, one in connec- 
tion with the East Church parish, founded by Mr Wright some 
years ago ; the books in all of which are chiefly of a religious nature.* 
A library of suitable books was established several years ago, and 
is supported solely by the present teacher of the parish school, 
without any contribution even from his scholars. 

There are two public reading rooms in the town, both frequent- 

* There is a library in connection with the New Jerusalem Church Society, con- 
taining all the theological works of Emanuel Swedenborg, and several other books 
explaining and lecommcnding the doctrines held by that body of Christiana. 



ALLOA. 63 

ed by the higher classes. There are four booksellers' and station* 
ers' shops in the town, and three printing-presses. No newspa* 
per or other periodical has yet been published here. 

Mechanics* Institution. — An institution of this kind was form- 
ed in 1826, when it commenced with a course of lectures by 
the late Mr John Steel ; since which time different courses of lec- 
tures have been given by Messrs Wylie, and Gray, Dr John Mur- 
ray, and other eminent persons, some of whom gave gratuitous lee* 
tures in different seasons. It was carried on with considerable 
spirit for many years, but does not now receive that support from 
the superior classes, which is necessary to insure its success. The 
library connected with it consists of 470 volumes of valuable books 
chiefly of a scientiGc nature. 

Sliakspeare Ciub. — This far-famed literary Club was formed by 
a native of this parish, who is distinguished for literary taste, in 
the year 1804, and prior to that even in the poet's birth-place ; and ' 
at the different anniversaries, it has occasionally been visited by se- 
veral distinguished poets, and other literary characters, honorary 
members of the club. The late Mr Hogg's beautiful Ode to the 
Genius of Shakspeare was written for the anniversary of 1815. 

Friendly Societies. — The Alloa Friendly Society, instituted in 
1823, has for its object the supporting of its members, when they 
are unable to work, either from disease or accident. The num- 
ber of members at present is 112. The yearly expenditure ave- 
rages L.30, which is raised by a small weekly contribution from the 
members. A similar Society exists among the ship-carpenters. 
The Alloa Friendly Society for funerals was instituted in 1814, 
and gives an allowance to members and their relations, at the 
death of a member, or any of his family, in the name of funeral 
money. The expenditure for twenty years preceding July 1834 
was L. 1377, 10s. The funds are raised by each member paying 
Is. when a death occurs in the Society. These ISocieties have ob- 
viously been of advantage to the members, by supporting many 
who might otherwise have fallen into abject poverty. Some other 
similar Societies formerly existed, but are now extinct. 

There is now no savings' bank in the parish, although one seems 
to be very much wanted. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — During the last fifty years, the 
number of paupers on the poor's roll has considerably increased. 
The number taken on an average of fifteen years preceding 1790, 
was 1 1 1 on the regular roll, and 86 on the temporary list. The 



64 



CLACKMANNAA' 



average annual allowance to each im 
the same period, was L. 1, 14s. Sjd. 
235 on the regular roll, receiving an 
each, and 99 temporary. Tlie can- 
various, but we presume the chief of ' 
population since the former period, 
tures in the parish, and the increi 
iog-classes, arising in a great 
bits. The amount of contributiox. 
1839 is as follows :— 

Vulunlorj FontribulioD!. b; the li< 



Colleclions at cburcb-doori. 

Bell-money, mortclutbi &c. 
Ooiialioas liom Dusenting can 



Besides what is staled in the pr 
for the maintenance of several pai 
lum, the expense of which, duri" 
1839, L.9], 8s. 3d. 

A committee of the inhabitar' 
concert with the heritors and 
gregations, who conlribute to t)''^^ 
This plan has been found of m 
to the paupers maintained by 0~^ 
enlarged, and their mode of of^, 
united exertions, the poor ha' -^ 
having recourse to a compulsr 
continue, cannot be predicted ^ 
mittee is to induce the inhabt* 
lunlary contributions, that at 
means and substance, so 1od{^ 
thereby prevent a legal asae 
begging as much as posslbb 
allowance of the most necea^ 
notorious that a few of them r 
ever they have it in their po- 
The committee of mana 
praiseworthy exertions of the 
fit of Old and Indigent Wo> 
nerally distribute above L. 
deserving objects, L.76; and 






ALLOA. 65 

ing to the amount of from L. 12 to L.15 per annum. In the year 
1829, a friend to this institution sent, anonymously, L. 250, as 
a donation in aid of the funds of this excellent charity, the interest 
of which is intended to be always at the disposal of the Society. 

There are now few persons who reckon it any degradation to re- 
ceive parochial aid ; and some able*bodied young men, who are 
apparently in circumstances to enable them to assist their aged 
parents, allow them, without scruple, to be supported from the 
parish funds. 

Prisons. — The only place of confinement for prisoners in the 
parish, is the old jail of Alloa, in a room of which the Sheriff-courts 
were formerly held ; it is now termed the lock-up-house, — the jail 
of Stirling being at present that of Clackmannanshire. 

Fairs, — Four fairs are held on the second Wednesdays of Fe- 
bruary, May, August, and November. At three of these cattle 
are sold ; but the fairs are little more than nominal. That held in 
August is the great fair, where servants are hired, and reapers for 
the harvest : it is attended by immense multitudes of people 
from all the surrounding district. 

Inns^ <$-c. — In the town of Alloa are five hotels and inns, at 
four of which chaises and other carriages are let out for hire ; 
27 taverns, and 30 grocers' shops, where spirituous liquors are 
sold. There are also 1 1 taverns or public-houses in the villages ; 
making a total number of no less than 72, which are more than the 
necessities of the people require. 

JPueL — Ck)al, the only fuel made use of in the parish is ob- 
tained in the immediate neighbourhood ; and a constant supply for 
the town is kept at the coal-fold, for household purposes, so low 
at present as 4s. 6d. per ton, owing to the generally depressed 
state of the coal trade along the river Forth. 

Drawn up December 1840. 
Bevised September 1841. 



CLACKMANNAK. 



PARISH OF TILLICOULTRY. 

TRESBYTBRY OF DUNBLANE, SYNOD OF PERTH AND 

STIRLING. 

THE REV. HENRY ANDERSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name and Boundaries, — The name of this parish is, by some, 

considered of Gaelic origin, and derived from TuUich^cut^tir^ sig- 
nifying the mount or kiU at the hack of the country^ as descrip- 
tive of the rising ground, called Kirk-hill,. and Cnnninghar, run- 
ning across the vale, in a south-east direction, from the bottom of 
the Ochils, near Tillicoultry House, to the Devon. This mount 
or hill, viewed from the west, appears as the termination of the 
valley, which stretches along the foot of the bills, from Abbey- 
Craig, near Stirling, to Dollar. 

'I'he writer of the former Statistical Account considered the 
name Tillicoultry as of Latin etymology, derived from Tellus 
culta^ referring to the introduction of Italian agriculture, or from 
Tellus cultorum Dei^ as indicating a place of Culdec, or of 
Druidical worship, — the old church having stood on the northern 
extremity, and the remains of a Druidic<il circle being still visible 
on the south end of the Cunninghar. 

The figure of the whole parish, including the hills, is an oblong, 
the two longest sides, uhich are on the east and west, measuring, 
each, nearly 6 English miles, the south side 2^ miles, and the 
north side one mile. The low grounds taken alone form, also, 
an oblong, the length of the sides, from east to west, being 
more than 2^ miles, and the breadth from south to north about 1^ 
mile. It is bounded on the east, by Dollar ; on the west, by Alva 
and Clackmannan ; on the south, by Clackmannan ; and on the 
north, by Blackford. 

Topographical Appearances, — The surface of the parish is much 
diversified, — two-thirds, or about 4000 •Scotch acres, being in the 
hills and glens, and the remaining 2000 forming a beautiful plain, 



TILLICOULTRY. 67 

sloping southwards, from the bottom of the hills to the banks be- 
yond the Devon ; and then a ridge of rising ground, which runs 
parallel with the hills. 

The front hills are, in some places, bold and romantic ; but, in 
most places, in summer are covered with a beautiful verdure, af- 
fording fine pasturage for sheep, as also the back hills, and the 
deep winding vales that intervene. 

There are two aspects of the Ochils strikingly grand, from the 
number and position of their burns and their glens. The one may 
be observed in the summer months, when the shade of night sits 
dark on the mountain's side, contrasting with the clear blue north- 
ern sky, seen through the openings, or glens, which, at distances, 
not irregtilar, appear as so many embrasures in the wall of a for- 
tification ; the other is exhibited in winter, when the snow-clad- 
range .has its dazzling whiteness relieved by the dark and deep- 
worn bed of each tributary rill that hastens* to pour its contents 
into the Devon below. 

From Bencleuch, the highest of the Ochils, which is 2300 feet 
above the level of the Forth, there is an extensive prospect in 
every direction, including the Grampian mountains, the DundafT, 
the Lomond, and Pentland hills. 

Hydrography. — There are many fine springs in the hills, 
which, collected in the declivities, form these beautiful burns in- 
tersecting the mountain and plain, at once so useful and orna- 
mental in this part of the country. One of these burns, which 
forms the boundary with Alva on the west, is beautifully adorned 
with wood, and has some fine cascades ; another, which is wooded 
on both sides, is the boundary with Dollar on the east; and the 
gardens of Harviestoun and Tillicoultry have each their mountain- 
stream murmuring o'er its pebbled-bed, beautifying and fertilizing 
all around. The largest of these rivulets is the burn of Tillicoul- 
try, formed by the confluence of Glooming-side burn, and Dai- 
glen, two nearly equal streams, which rise in the middle range, and 
the water of which, after forming many a deep pool, well known to 
the angler, and dashing impetuous over many a rock, is made, by 
the art and industry of man, to turn the machinery of eight large 
woollen factories. 

But the Devon, celebrated by tourists and poets, is the most re- 
markable stream in the parish, which, rising in the hill behind 
Alva, runs in an easterly direction, on the north side of Tillicoul- 



C8 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

try, and through Dollar, Olendevon, and Muckart, theDce issuing 

south into the vale, it takes a westerly course at the Crook of De* 

von, passes the church and manse of Fossaway, and, two or three 

wiles below, it forms that wonderful group of rocks, waterfalls, 

&c.abouttheRumbling Bridge and the Caldron Linn. Increasing in 

size, as it flows westwards, from the contents of many tributary 

streams, it was wont, in former times, frequently to overflow its 

banks, carrying along with it hay, corn, &c. but this is now, in 

some measure, prevented by embankments raised in places most 

exposed to inundation. A little below the bridge, on the south 

bank, it supplies the manufacturers at Devonside with water for 

their steam-engines, and other purposes ; and, winding along the 

north side of Glenfoot, it leaves Tillicoultry, passes through Alva 

and part of Logic, and falls into the Forth near Cambas, almost 

due south from its source in the hills. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The rocks in this parish belong to 
the trap, porphyry, and coal formations. Over these occur de- 
posits of a diluvial and alluvial nature. The trap formation con- 
sists of greenstone, amygdaloid, &c. and the porphyry of porphyry, 
compact felspar, tufa, &c. The quarries in the Mill-glen have 
been wrought for some time, and aflbrd excellent whinstone or trap 
for building and road-metal. There is abundance of sandstone 
in the parish, of various colours, — reddish, straw-coloured, and 
white, which greatly facilitates the increase of building, and is of 
considerable value to the proprietors. The stone of which Harvies- 
toun House is built, was found on the estate, and, about thirty- 
five years ago, a large quantity of flagstone was wrought on Bal- 
harty, on the south-east side of the parish. The hills of Tillicoul- 
try are thought to contain various precious minerals, as iron, cop- 
per, silver,. lead, and cobalt. About a century ago, some of these 
were wrought to a considerable extent, in the Mill-glen, above the 
village of Tillicoultry, and there are still remaining the ruins 
of a large house, occupied by the miners, on the front of the hill, 
west side of the burn. About fifty men were employed for seve- 
ral years, by a company in London ; and, although four diflerent 
kinds of copper were discovered, the thickest vein of which was 
about 18 inches, and the ore, when washed and dressed, was 
worth L. 50 Sterling per ton, the works were abandoned as not de- 
fraying the expense. 

The ironstone, however, has proved a more lucrative concern. 
It is found under the hills, as well as south from the Devon, and 



TILLICOULTRY. 69 

^aspartially wrought, about forty years ago, by the Carrou Company, 
and more extensively since by the Devon Company. On the west 
side of the parish, it runs in strata, from two to five inches in 
thickness, and on the east side, it lies in bands, or promiscuously 
among the blaes. The latter is of a kidney shape, and fine quality, 
said to yield from 20 to 30 per cent. 

There is abundance of coal in the parish, of various and excel- 
lent quality; some seams of which were found under the hills, 
when the ironstone was wrought, and also at Harviestoun, when 
the sandstone quarry was wrought ; but, there being four excellent 
seams on the south side of the river, which have been partially 
wrought, the proprietors do not wish to have coal wrought on the 
north side. The only coal that has been wrought to any extent 
in the parish is Colsnaughton. It is at present wrought on Wood- 
lands, and at Devonside, by Robert Bald, Esq. It dips to the 
north-west, and crops out to the south-east. The Craw seam is 
about 3 feet thick, a rough cherry coal, about 17 fathoms from the 
surface. The 5 feet seam at present wrought is of very fine quality, 
being all cherry coal, except about 5 or 6 inches in the roof, and is 
9 fathoms below the Craw-seam. The splint coal, which is nearly 
3 feet thick, is 6 fathoms below the 5 feet seam, and the main coal, 
which is a strong coal, a mixture of rough and splint, 6 feet thick^ 
is 14 fathoms below the splint seam. There are no coals sent to 
Alloa to be exported, although there is now a good turnpike-road, 
as there is a great demand from the country round, and from the 
north side of the hills, to which large quantities are driven, by the 
Yetts of Muckart. 

The soil is various, in some places a rich loam, in others it is 
sandy or gravelly, and there is a considerable extent of moss on 
the hills, about 7 feet deep, which the heavy rains are, from time 
io time, removing to the Devon, or the holms below. There are 
also some pieces of moss on both sides of the river, in which oak 
is found, black as ebony, and in a high state of preservation, as 
also hazel-nuts. 

Zooloff i/>~*-Under this head there is nothing peculiar to the pa- 
rish. But it may be noticed that there are three species of the 
feathered race, once well known here, but now seldom, or never 
seen in Tillicoultry. The snipe and the goldfinch, which, thirty 
years ago, were inmates of the manse garden, are never seen in the 
parish now, so far as the writer knows ; the former evidently ba- 
.nished by the draining of the bogs and marshes, and the latter 



70 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

gone to some less cuUtvated district, where its favourite thistle 
abounds. The glede, once an every day object, is never seen in 
this part of the country, but, whether from the want of its proper 
food, or from the great increase of rookeries, is uncertain. 

The roe is occasionally seen in the neighbouring plantations. 

Botany, — There are several fine thriving plantations on the 
north side of Devon, on the estates of Alva, Tillicoultry, and 
Harviestoun, which, being laid out with taste, are at once oroa- 
mentiil and valuable. The oak, the elm, the ash, the beech, and 
the plane, the birch, the larch, and the pine are the most common. 
Near Tillicoultry House, there are some stately lime trees, and se- 
veral very large and aged chestnuts, which, in a good year, bear 
excellent fruit. There are also very thriving plantations on the 
south side of Devon on the estates of Harviestoun, Tillicoultry, 
Shannock-hill, and Glenfoot 

Of cryptogamous plants, there is great variety, particularly the 
Filices and Musci. The phanerogamous found in the neighbour- 
ing parishes are also common here, as the Digitalisj f^iohj Glecho- 
fnahederaceaj PrimulaveriSf TussUago^ LeontodanySaxifraga grants 
latn^ CalendulOf Oxalisy Atropa BeHadannOy JgrostiSy Trifolium^ &c 
There is a beautiful species of the Arundo on the banks of the 
Devon ; the Acetosa abounds in the woods, and the Serpyllum 
in the hills. 

n. — Civil History. 
About six hundred years ago, the estate of Tillicoultry was the 

property of the family of Mar ; and an original charter, granted by 

King Alexander 111. of Scotland, in the fourteenth year of his 

reign, was in the possession of the late Mr Erskine of Mar, — a 

copy of which may be seen in the former Statistical Account of this 

parish. Since the beginning of the seventeenth century, and in 

less than two hundred years, it has been sold ten times, and in the 

possession of eleven different families. It was in the family of 

Lord Colvil of Culross from 1483 to 1634, when it was sold to 

William Alexander of Menstrie, afterwards Earl of Stirling, the 

distinguished poet. It was purchased by Sir Alexander Rollo of 

Duncrub, in the year 1644; by Mr John Nicolson of Carnock, 

Stirlingshire, in 1659 ;by Lord Tillicoultry, one of the Senatorsof 

the College of Justice, and a baronet in 1701 ; by the Honourable 

Charles Barclay Maitland, of the family of Lauderdale, in 1756: 

by James Bruce, Esq. of Kinross, in 1780 ; by Duncan Glassford 

Esq. in 1806 ; by James Erskijie, Esq. in 1810; by R. Downie, 



TILLICOULTRY. 71 

Esq. in 1813; aud by R. Wardlaw, Esq. in 1814. Aboul four 
years a^o, part of Tillicoultry estate, including the uiansion-house, 
was sold to the late Patrick Stirling, Esq. which was bought in 
1840 by the present proprietor. 

Land'owners. — The proprietors of the parish are, J. Anstruther, 
Esq. of Tillicoultry; the Globe Insurance Conripany, Harviestoun; 
R. Ward lay Ramsay, Esq. of Whitehill ; James Johnstone, Esq. 
of Alva ; the Earl of Mansfield ; Mr Harrower of Sbannockhill ; 
Mr Blair of Glenfoot ; and Mr Ritchie of Cairntown. 
* Parochial Registers, — The earliest register of discipline is dated 
1640; of baptism, January 1610; of proclamation, November 
1752; of burial, October 1753. They have been kept with va- 
rious degrees of accuracy ; and many parents have neglected to 
register the names of their children. The Devon Company hav- 
ing, many years ago, purchased ground in the church -yard, there 
are many persons from Clackmannan parish buried here. 

Antiquities, — The remains of a fort or building on the Castle 
Craig, above the village, and the Druidical circle are mentioned 
in the former Statistical Account. About twenty years ago, a 
small axe, apparently of brass, was found in a bed of sand, at the 
south end of the mound on which the Druids circle stands. 

In 1796, when digging a drain behind Harviestoun Houfte, a 
sword was found ; and in 1802, when making the west approach to 
Harviestoun, an urn ; both of which are now in the possession of 
John Tait, Esq. Sheriff of Clackmannanshire. The sword is iron, 
but toUilly oxidized. It appears to have been double-edged, and is 
perfectly straight It is 31 inches long, including the handle, which 
is remarkably small, not large enough for an ordinary-sized man's 
hand. There is no basket at the handle, but a small narrow piece 
of iron, curved outward in a semicircular form, at each extremity, 
one of which serves as a guard, separating it from the blade. It 
is thought to be Roman, as the Romans were certainly in this part 
of the country, and as it resembles some of the swords used by 
them. The urn is about five inches in height, and about the same 
width, formed of clay, baked, or perhaps dried in the sun. It has 
a rude waved pattern on the outside, as if it had been formed by 
a mould of plaited rushes. Inside, there was some dust or ashes, 
and a flat flint, about two inches long, and an inch broad, sharpen* 
ed all round, except at the bottom, which may have been the head 
of an arrow or spear. It was found enclosed in a sort of rude 



72 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

stone-coffin, composed of flat stones not fastened together ; and al- 
together, it gives the idea of very remote antiquity. 

Modem Buildings. — Tillicoultry House and Hanriestoun are 
both elegant mansions, built about thirty-five and thirty-seven years 
ago ; the church, erected in 1828, is at once beautiful and commo- 
dious, and the meeting-house is a goodly building. 

There are several large and well-built mills, lately erected for 
the woollen manufacture ; and the dwell ing«houses in the villages 
are many of them handsome and comfortable. The Edinburgh 
and Leith Bank and dwelling-house are especially so. 

III. — Population. 



In 1755, the amount of population was 


787 


1782, 


. • • 


853 


1793, 


• • • 


909 


1806, 


• • • 


1050 


1821, 


• . • 


1160 


1831, 


• • • 


1472 


1887, 


• • • 


1803 


1841; 


amount lait census, 


3213 



The great increase of population which has taken place, of late 
years, is chiefly owing to the rapid increase of manufactures in 
the shawl trade, tartans, and other branches ; and many of the hands 
employed being strangers, who are not stationary, any general re- 
marks on the character and habits of the people would of course 
be applicable only to the individuals. I believe, however, it is ge- 
nerally admitted, that Tillicoultry shawls and tartans are now as 
much in request, by skilled merchants, as the well known serge was 
in former times. 

The principal heritors do not at present reside in the parish. 
There are eight heritors possessing more than L.50 of annual rent. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — As a considerable part of the parish is well adapt- 
ed to the purposes of husbandry, the most improved methods of 
farming have been used, draining has been general, in both sides of 
the Devon, chiefly with stone, but in several instances, also with 
tile. The lands are generally well fenced, either with stone fences 
or hedges, and the latter are neatly dressed. The four-shift ro- 
tation is chiefly practised, but in some cases the five-shift mode 
is used, viz. oats, green crop, barley with grass seeds, and hav : 
or oats, green crop, barley or wheat, — hay, the second crop, being pas- 
tured, and pasture. The rent of land, on the north side of Devon, 
is from L. .3 to L. 4 per acre, and some fields have been let at 
higher rates. On the south side, rent varies as the quality of land, 



TILLICOULTRY. 73 

from L. I to L. 2. As many fields are let to the villagers, and 
cropped so as to suit the convenience of their families, and many 
also are let yearly for pasturage, it is difficult to get a correct state- 
ment of the value of the gross produce. The present rental of 
the parish is L.527d, 16s. 6d. 

Labourers' wages are from Is. 6d. to 2s. per day, for men ; and 
from lOd. to Is. for women. Farm male-servants have from L. 20 
to L. 25 ; and females, from L. 5 to L. 8 per annum. 

Manufactures. — The manufacture of Scotch blankets and Tilli. 
coultry serge has long been carried on with advantage in this pa^ 
rish ; but within the last twenty years, the manufacture of shawls 
and tartans has been found more lucrative ; and such is the demand 
for these articles, from Glasgow and other places, for exportation, 
that the old establishments have been enlarged, and several new 
ones erected. There are about 300 men, 120 women, and 140 
children employed in these factories, besides those employed at 
home, and a considerable number by the small manufacturers, 
many of whom have from one to four looms. The rate of men's 
wages, is from 2s. 2d. to Ss. 4d. ; of women's, from lOd. to Is. 6d. ; 
and of children's from 6d. to 8d. per day. 

The quantity of wool annually used by the principal manufac- 
turers is stated to be about 30,000 stones ; the price of the wool, 
from Is. to 2s. per lb. The hours of labour are from six o'clock in 
the morning to seven in the evening, during which they have one 
hour for breakfast, and one for dinner. On Saturday the mills are 
shut at five o'clock. The persons employed in the factories are ge- 
nerally healthy, and the labour in which they are engaged does not 
seem to impair either the bodily vigour, or mentalenergy of thechil- 
dren, although there is no doubt that their being able so early to 
earn wages, has an influence, not very favourable,* on their educa- 
tion and their habits in after life. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Town. — The nearest market-town is Alloa, about four 
miles distant. The distance from Stirling is nine miles. The 
parish, however, is well supplied with the necessaries of life, there 
being three bakers, three fleshers, and several grocers in Tillicoul- 
try. There are two villages in the parish, Tillicoultry and Coals« 
naughton, both extending rapidly, and another has sprung up with- 
in these few years, at Devonside, where a brick and tile-work has 
lately been erected. There is a surgeon in Tillicoultry, an in- 
creasing number of smiths, wrights, and masons, and an extensive 



74 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

work for making machinery. There is a post-office, and a po!>t 
daily |>asses between Alloa and Muckart. 

The public roads to Alloa, Stirling, and Kinross, are all good, 
and the materials for keeping them in repair are abundant, and of 
excellent quality. The bridge over Devon, which formerly was 
narrow and uncomfortable, • was widened about twenty years ago, 
and is now spacious and secure. There is a wooden bridge for 
foot-passengers, below the village of Tillicoultry. 

Ecclesiastical State, — An elegant church, which does honour to 
the liberality of the heritors, was built in 1828. It contains Cf50, 
and is conveniently situated near the centre of the parish, and at 
no great distance from the villages. About three-fourths of the 
population belong to the Established Church ; the rest are connect* 
ed with the United Secession meeting-house in the village, the 
Relief, the Original Seceders, the Episcopalians, or the Unita- 
rians. There are many who are regular and exemplary in attend- 
ing Divine ordinances, although there is reason to lament that too 
many seem to consider the Sabbath as merely a day of cessation 
from labour, and spend it just as inclination or companionship may 
dictate. 

The manse, erected in 1811, is good, and the offices are com- 
modious. The glebe is about 13 acres. The minister is under- 
stood to have a right to pasturage in the hills, which the present 
incumbent has never enjoyed. The stipend is 15 chalders, half 
meal half barley, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. 

Education. — Besides the parish-school, which is not well at- 
tended, there are two subscription schools in Tillicoultry, one 
taught by a member of the Established Church, the other by a 
Dissenter. There is also an academy taught by the Rev. Mr 
Browning. There is a school in Coalsnaughton, connected with 
the Church, built by Mr Wardlaw Ramsay. The parochial school- 
master's salary is L.25, Ids. d^d. The subscription school in 
Tillicoultry connected with the Church has a salary of L. 8, paid 
by Mr Ramsay and Mr Johnstone of Alva, besides the school-fees ; 
and the school in Coalsnaughton has a salary of L. 5, paid by Mr 
Ramsay, with house and garden, besides the school-fees. There 
is a small library attached to this school. The people generally 
are sensible of the advantages of education. 

The children employed in the factories attend evening-schools 
in both villages. A Sabbath evening-school was taught in the 



T1LLIC0ULTKY# 75 

church by the minister for many years, and the schoolmasters in 
the villages continue to teach Sabbath evening-schools. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The poor are well provided for in 
this parish, as besides an aliment, many of them have house-rents 
paid, and frequent occasional supplies. The number permanently 
on the roU, is from 15 to 18, who receive from 28. 6d. to 6s. per 
month. There are also from 5 to 8, who occasionally get assist- 
ance for clothes, fire, &c. — liberal donations being given for these 
purposes in winter by the families of Tillicoultry and Alva. There 
have been two or three lunatics, or persons in a state of mental im- 
becility, supported by the parish, at great expense, for some years. 
Besides the collections at the church-door, averaging for 1835, 
1836, and 1637, L.26, lis. I0|d. ; mortcloth dues, &c.from L.2 
to L. 3 ; and the interest of L. 203 at 5 per cent ; the heritors, for 
some years past, have found it necessary to assess themselves to 
defray the above heavy expenditure. 

InnB and Public^Houses, — There are ten public-bouses in the 
parish ; and there is no doubt that our Saturday evenings would be 
more quiet and our Sabbaths more solemn, were fewer opportuni- 
ties afforded the thoughtless and the dissipated of injuring their 
health and morals, and exposing themselves to all the evils which 
drunkenness entails. 

FueL — Abundance of excellent coal may be had, at no great 
distance from any of the villages, from 4s. 6d. to 63. per ton, ac- 
cording to the season and the demand. 

September 1841. 



PARISH OF DOLLAR. 

I'RESBYTERY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. A. MYLNE, D.D. MINISTEtt. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — There can be little doubt that the name Dollar is of 
Gaelic origin ; but there is some difficulty in ascertaining what is 
the meaning of the word in that language. Some say that the 
name is derived from Z)a/, a valley, and ard^ a hill or lofty ground. 
But these terms scarcely apply to Dollar. Some derive the name 
from the Gaelic word, Doilleir^ which signifies dark^ sombre, or 
gloomy. ♦ 

Extent and Boundaries, — The parish of Dollar is about a mile 
and a quarter in length from east to west. The breadth from 
north to south is considerably greater, being about three miles; 
but as the boundary to the north extends far into the Ochills, 
where there is no population, its breadth from the southern foot 
of the Ochills to the boundary line of the parish of Clackmannan, 
scarcely exceeds a mile and a-half. The breadth of the parish is, 
however, considerably enlarged by a piece of angular ground, al- 
most detached from the rest of the parish in the south-east, c«illed 
the Seik and Well-hall, near to Blair-ingone. The same thing 
occurs in the north-east of the parish, where Hill-foot and its farm- 
stead! n;ys form also a detached corner. The boundary of the pa- 
rish on the east is well defined by Kelly-burn, which separates it 
from Muckhart. The northern boundary is in the centre of the 
Ochills adjoining the parish of Blackford. 

In the northern extremity of the parish, about two miles above 

* This opinion is founded on the following well known tradition : It is ssid, a 
daughter of one of the Kings of Scotland (who then resided at Dunfermline, a royal 
scat in the neighbourhood of Dollar) was, as a punishment for some improper con- 
duct« immured in the cells of the royal fort, now called Castle Campbell ; and tliat 
while confined there, she gave names to certain places and streams adjoining the eas. 
tic, corresponding to the depressed state of her mind at the time. Ihe place of her 
confinement she called Castle Gloom. The hill on the east of the castle she calle<l 
Cilooin hill, which name it siil! retains. To the two streamlets which glide by on 
the cast and west sides of the knoll on which the CasUe is built, she gave the names 
of the burns of Care and Sorrow. 



DOLLAR- 77 

Castle Campbell} there is a large moss called Maddie moss. Its 
area exceeds 120 Scots acres. It is very retentive of water, and 
occasionally bursts its barrier, and flows down in a muddy torrent 
to the Devon, by the stream on the west of the castle. The 
western boundary on the side of Tillicoultry is clearly marked (at 
least on the north side of the Devon) by a burn which descends 
from the Ochills, and crosses the turnpike road about a twelfth of 
a mile or less from the first mile-stone on the road from Dollar to 
Alloa. The boundary on the south is not well defined ; but the 
road from Blair-ingone to Alloa is pretty nearly the boundary, and 
separates the parish from Clackmannan. At Melloch, however, 
there are a few houses in Dollar parish on the south of this road, 
belonging to Mr Erskine, the boundary being in his i^ood of Aber- 
dona, which cuts off from Clackmannan, a small portion of his 
property, which lies chiefly in the latter parish. 

Hills. — The only hills connected with the parish of Dollar are 
the Ochills, an extensive range which runs nearly in the direction 
of west to east from the parish of Logic ; forming a barrier on the 
north to the parishes of Alva, Tillicoultry, Dollar, and Muckhart, 
and continuing in the same line to the centre of Fife. The hill 
on the western extremity is called Damiett, from which there is a 
most magnificent view of all the country around, more especially 
of Stirling, Alloa, Linlithgow, Falkirk, the kerse of Stirling, and as 
far as the centre of Lanarkshire, — together with the splendid range 
of mountains extending from near Perth on the east, to the banks 
of Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond, on the west. The highest hill 
in the Ochills is Benclough, north of Alva, nearly 2400 feet in 
height. The hills to the east, in Tillicoultry and Dollar, and more 
especially, in Muckhartand to the east of Muckhart, are of inferior 
heights. The chief hills which form the barrier of Dollar to the 
north are King's seat. Dollar hill, and the Wisp, which do not 
exceed 1800 or 1900 feet in height. 

The Ochills, . as seen a few miles on the south of Dollar, ap- 
pear a continuous range, nearly of the same height, and not unHke 
in form to the Jura mountains which separate Geneva from France. 
Upon examining the upper ridge narrowly, certain notches or de- 
pressions are seen, which indicate the place where streams are 
formed on the upper part of the hills which descend to the plains 
below, increasing in size, and passing through romantic glens of 
great variety and beauty. The most remarkable are the burns of 
Dollar, Alva, and Tillicoultry, the two last of which furnish a sup- 



7 3 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

ply of water for the shawl and blanket mills of these thriving Til- 
lages. 

The Ochills have been much adniired for the lights and sha- 
dows that appear on their sur£sice. This is particularly noticed 
by those who live on the south side of the Forth* And there 
can be no doubt, it arises from the particular slope of the hills, 
which is nearly an angle of 45, so that every cloud which passes 
over the sun has its shadow reflected on the green surface of the 
Ochills. If the inclination of the hills were more perpendiculary 
the shadows would not be seen by those who live on the opposite 
side of the Forth, and if the inclination were more horizontal, they 
would fall unobserved by them on the ground. 

The greater part of the parish of Dollar consists of a valley or low 
grounds between the foot of the Ochills and a gently sloping emi* 
nence on the south of the Devon. The breadth of the valley may 
be about one mile or less, and it is nearly level ; but in the north- 
east portion of the valley, the ground begins to rise, and continues 
to rise to Hillfoot,in the north-eastern comer of the parish. The 
old village of Dollar, as it is now called, is situated at the cobi- 
mencement of this rising ground, and presents a most picturesque 
appearance when viewed from Sheardale or the rising ground in 
the parish on the south of the Devon. 

The Devon glides, with many windings, through the valley ; but 
as it keeps near the high land on the south, it is not seen to advan- 
tage from the grounds immediately above it. The height of the 
Devon at Dollar above the level of the sea must be quite inconsi- 
derable, — from the circumstance, that a canal was several years 
ago seriously proposed to be made to join Dollar and Cambus, 
(where the Devon enters the Forth,) but it was abandoned, whe- 
ther from want of means to carry on the work, or a difference 
among proprietors through whose lands it was to pass, is not known. 
It would have been of great advantage to Dollar and the neigh- 
bouring parishes, by furnishing a ready mode of conveyance for 
their farm and other produce, — although it might have interfered 
with the picturesque effect of the '* clear winding Devon." 

There is a remarkable fissure in the front of Castle Campbell. 
Whether it is a natural or artificial opening, is not well ascertain- 
ed. The general opinion is, that it was a passage cut out of the 
rock to carry water in the event of a siege, from the rivulet below; 
but it is more probably the work of some natural convulsion, — 
though it may have been improved by artificial means. It is said 



BOLLAU. 79 

there were steps cut in the rock, forming the bottom of the fissure, 
all the way down to the rivulet. But it is difficult to ascertain the 
truth of this statement, as it is now completely covered with loose 
earth, several feet in thickness. The fissure is dark and gloomy, 
and the descent is very steep and difficult, and is rarely attempt- 
ed. It is above 100 feet from top to bottom, and the breadth 
is about six feet. The sides are. perpendicular, which gives it very 
much the appearance of an artificial cut It is usually called 
Kemp^s score or cut. 

Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere and its pres- 
sure, also the quantity of rain that falls in a year, are exhibited in 
the following table, which contains the monthly average result of 
observations made on the barometer and thermometer every day, 
morning and evening, for one year, viz. from October 1839, to 
October 1840; also the monthly average result of observations 
made with a rain-guage regularly kept. 

Barometer. Thermometer. Rian-guage. 

91 A. M. 84 r. x. 9} A. M. 84 p. m. Minimum. Inches. 

Oct. 1899 29.84 29.87 474 ^k ^^ ^-^ 

. Nov. 29.47 29.46} 42 414 ^k 3-7^ 

Dec. 29.40 29.39 d7 37 334 ^-^ 

Jan. 1840 29.31 29.30)^ 37 374 ^ ^-^ 

Feb. 29.64 29.65 384 ^4 ^\ ^-^ 

March 30.13 30.11 40 39 31 0.31 

April 29.86 29.87 494 ^ ^ 0-72 

May 29.71 29.71 50 474 42 3.74 

June 29.65 29.66 56 504 48 2.44 

July 29.57 29.59 574 ^ 494 4.79 

Aug. 29.674 29.68 59 57 51 a]9 

Sept. 29.46 29.50 52 * 48 44 4.36 

46.01 

The following is a statement of the quantity of rain that fell in 
Dollar, from March to March following, viz. from 1830 to 1837 
= 47 inches and 77 hundred parts; from 1837 to 1^38 = 36. 30 
inches; from 1838 to 1839 =: 49.92 inches; from 1839 to 1840 
= 49.46 inches. 

The hottest day of the year 1836, was the 15th of June, 66® 
at 9i A. M. ; the coldest night, 11th January following, 13°. 
The hottest day in 1837 was the Uth July, 70"^ at 9^ a. m.; and 
the coldest nights, 19th January and I4th February following, viz. 
T. The hottest days in 1838 was the 5th and 6th July, viz. 
69^^ at 9^ A. M. ; and the coldest nights, the 6th and 30th Janu- 
ary following, viz. 15^ The hottest day in 1839 was the 18th 
June, viz. 70 i° at 9^ a. m. ; and the coldest night, 30th January 
following, viz. 19°. 



80 CLACRBIANNANSHIRB. 

Climate, — The climate has a decided tendency to mobture; 
owing, no doubt, to the immediate vicinity of the Ochill bills. 

The parish is remarkably healthy. The only disease which 
may be considered as peculiar to Dollar, is the glandular swelling 
of the neck, called bronchocele-^obviously occasioned by drinlung 
the water of Dollar Burn, which is impregnated, for more than 
half the year, with melted snow from the Ochills. 

Hydrography. — There is a spring or rather drippings from the 
rocks at the Vicar\s bridge, (so called from its having been built 
by Thomas Forrest, Vicar of Dollar, to be afterwards mentioned,) 
in the parish of Fossaway ; but it goes under the name of Dollar 
Mineral Water. It is reckoned a good breeding stream for sal- 
mon, and is powerfully astringent, and comes from a rock of iroo- 
stone. It is said to be very efficacious in healing cuts and bniises 
of any kind — and has been particularly useful in healing the fleshy 
wounds of cattle. 

The following analysis of this water is by Dr Thomson of Glas- 
gow: — 



Sp. Gr. 1.0109. 




In an imperial gallon are the following ingredients :— 




Muriate of soda. 


5.87 


Sulphate of soda, 


. ] 70.99 


Sulphate of alumina. 


95a 18 


Dipersulphate of iron, 


175aiO 


Persulphate of iron, 


141.55 


Silica, . . . . . 


5a 70 



3083.39 grs 

Rivers, — The only river in the parish is the Devon or Dovan. 
It takes its rise among the hills in the parish of Blackford. It 
flows almost due east from its source, till it reaches the parish of 
Glendovan. After this, its course is mpre to the south. At the 
village which has the appropriate name of Crook of Devon,^ it 
takes a sudden turn to the west, flows between the parishes of Fos- 
saway and Muckhart, and then enters Dollar, where it has a very 
agreeable appearance, and is well entitled to the epithets of" Silver 
Devon," " Winding Devon," which Burns bestowed upon it,* Af- 
ter passing through the parishes of Tillicoultry and Alva, the De- 
von at last reaches the Cambus, in the parish of Alloa, where it 
joins the Forth : and it deserves to be noticed, that, after mak- 
ing a circuit of between 30 and 40 miles, it enters the Forth 

It is celebrated in two of the published sonfi^s of Burns, which were composed by 
him, when on a visit at Harviestoutu the residence of Mr Tait, in honour of t«-o 
ladies, relations of that gentleman, Mi&s Chalmers, afterwards Mrs Lewis Hay, and 
Miss Hamilton, p.fterwards Mrs Adair. 



DOLLAR. 81 

only a few miles south from its source. The Devon, after 
the sudden turn which it takes westward at the Crooks pre- 
sents, as it flows through the parishes of Fossaway and Muckhart, 
some scenes of singular beauty. Of these, we may notice the 
DeiVs MilU the Ruwbling-brig^ and the Cauldron Linn or Falls of 
the Devon, which attract the notice of all travellers for amusement. 
Its medium breadth is about 100 feet ; its depth seldom exceeds 
two or three feet, except when it forms itself into pools, which are 
often five or six feet deep, or more. It is subject to considerable in- 
undations after heavy rains among the hills where it takes its rise, 
or after the sudden melting of new fiillen snow. These floods or 
spates^ as they are sometimes called, often prove very injurious to 
the farmers whose lands lie on the borders of the river. The De- 
von abounds with trout, and also with par below the falls ; but, as 
it is much frequented by anglers, more especially in the neighbour- 
hood of Dollar, fewer fish are found than formerly. The best 
trouting station is in the parish of Glendovan and higher up. There 
are no par here, which corroborates the experiments of Mr Shaw, 
tending to ^how that par are young salmon in a certain stage, and 
they ^cannot ascend beyond the falls. The small streams or burns 
which descend southward to the Devon from the glens in the 
hills, abound with trouts of the finest quality, which are often 
caught in great numbers — more especially after warm showers. 
The Devon, being but a small stream, is not navigable ; but it 
might easily be made navigable by deepening its bed. A survey 
of the river was made in 1766 by James Watt, engineer, who re- 
ported that its elevation above the Forth at Cambus was trifling, and 
that it might be made navigable as far up as Dollar, at an expense 
not exceeding L.2000. But nothing farther was done in the matter. 

Mineralogy* — The rocks of this parish consist chiefly of two 
classes, viz. Ist^ Trap rocks, 2c/, Coal formation rocks. The 
north part of the parish consists of that range of the Ochill moun- 
tains which presents to the south a regular line of front running 
in an east and west direction for a number of miles ; this line pas- 
ses through the parish a little northward from the town of Dollar. 

These mountains are composed of trap rocks of various kinds, 
in thick beds, and very much on edge, the dip being to the south, 
and the line of bearing from east to west. The great mass is of 
the amygdaloid class, and clinkstone porphyry, of a light colour. 
The former abounds with agates, in the cavities of which small 
quartz crystals are found. 

It is, however, particularly to be remarked, that Gloom hill, im- 

(LACKMANXAN. F 



82 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

mediately north from tho old town of Dollar, is distinctly differenl 
from the rocks which compose the great mass of the Ochills, it be- 
ing that species of trap- rock known by the name of greenstone, 
and commonly termed blue whinstone, being much more crystal- 
line in its structure than the common trap rocks adjoining. 

In the mountains of this parish, as well as in the whole range of the 
Ochills, there are many veins in which copper and lead are found. 

From the face of the Ochills in this parish, the only class of 
rocks found arc those of the coal formation, abounding with va- 
luable beds of coal. These rocks consist of, 1^^, Sandstone of va- 
rious shades of yellow, grey, and light red ; 2d^ Argillaceous schi^ 
tus, or shale of a dark colour, more or less mixed with sand ; Sd, 
Argillaceous rock, commonly named fire-clay; At/t^ Argillace- 
ous ironstone in bands and balls, such as is commonly found 
in the coal-fields of Scotland ; 5thy Mountain limestone. 

The beds of coal are of various thickness, as will be afterwards 
noticed, consisting of cubical coal, splint coal, smithy coal, and 
anthracite, commonly known by the name of blind-coal. 

Below the mountain limestone, the strata of the coal formation 
continue to a great and unexplored depth, containing many beds of 
coal, but not workable to profit. Accompanying the coals, there are 
valuable ironstones, fire-clay, sandstone, and thin beds of limestone. 

Although the whole parish south of the Ochills consists of rocks 
of the coal formation, that part of it which contains beds of coal 
of a thickness workable to profit is comparatively small. 

There are two workable coal-fields in the parish, viz. that of 
Dollar, next the Ochills, and Sheardale, upon the south side of the 
river Devon. Each of these viewed as a whole is of an elliptical or 
oval shape, termed a coal basin ; consequently the strata dip in 
every direction towards the deepest part of the basin ; but mining 
engineers regard the chief or true dip to be northwards, as the strata 
on the north side of the basins rise at a great angle with the horizon. 

These two coal-fields, so far as they contain coals workable to 
profit, are completely disjoined ; but they contain the same beds 
of coal, and the same accompanying strata. 

The Dollar coal-field is the west portion of an elliptical bjisin, 
the trough or lowest part of which has its greatest length in a line 
nearly parallel with the face of the Ochills, the eastern part of 
which basin is found in continuation across the east boundary of 
the parish, and terminates in the parish of Muckhart. The greatest 
length of the basin, measuring from the outburst or crop of the 
main coal, which is the lowest workable coal above the niountjiin 



DOLLAR. 83 

limestone, is about 1730 yards, and its greatest breadth, measur* 
ed from the crops of the same coal, is about 960 yards, of iivhich 
the breadth from the line of the trough to the south crop is 672 
yards, and from the trough to the north crop, is only 288 yards. 

The surface of the ground frpm the mountain foot declines 
gently towards the river Devon, and forms haughs or holms^ along 
both sides of the river. From these holms the ground again rises 
to the south, forming a steep brow ; from the top of which there 
is a considerable extent of table or fiat land reaching to the south 
side of the parish. In this flat land, is found the Sheardale coaU 
field already mentioned. The only difference regarding the beds 
of coal, compared with those of the Dollar coal-field, is that, in the 
Sheardale coal-field, no smithy coal or anthracite is to be found. 

The organic remains found here are the same as are found ge- 
nerally in the coal-fields of Scotland ; but no organic remains are 
found in any of the rocks which compose the Ochills. 

In both coal-fields, the following coals have been found above the 
mountain limestone, the place of section being at Kelly Burn, the east 
boundary of Dollar parish, and at the deepest part of the trough : 

Rock Strata. Coak. 

Fathoms. Feet. Feet. Inches. 
3 2 



Earth or alluvial cover, 

1. Upper coal rock, 
Rock strata, . 

2. The crop coal, 
Rock strata, 

3. Coal, . • • 

Rock strata, . • } m 

4. Rock strata, . . ) 

5. The rough coal, 

Rock strata, . . 2 

6. Splint coal. 

Rock strata, . Ill 

7. Rock strata, . ) 

8. The main coal. 



2 3 6 

3 5 

1 8 



34 2 15 8 

These coals are a mixture of splint and cubical coal, suitable 
for household use and furnaces, with the exception of the smithy 
coal, which is part of the main coal, gradually changing its quality 
into the smithy or blind coal, as it approaches the mountain rock. 

Sandstone has been wrought on both sides of the Devon. The 
quarry at Sheardale has been wrought to a considerable extent. A, 
good specimen of this rock is seen in the Academy of Dollar. 
The sandstone on the north-side of the Devon has not been much 
used for a number of years ; but at present it is being quarried 
at Quarrel-burn quarry, west from the town of Dollar, with a 



84 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

view to the erection of a new church for the parish : but it is 
feared it will not answer. 

The ironstone found in these coal-fields is of the common argil- 
laceous kinds, and is found in bands and balls imbedded in shale 
or dark-coloured argillaceous schistus, and yields from 28 to 33 per 
cent, of cast-iron. 

The argillaceous rock or fire-clay is found in the pavement aod 
roof of the coal. It is here of the ordinary quality, such as is com- 
mon in the coal-fields of Scotland. When made into bricks it is Terr 
suitable for lining of furnaces, where there is an intense heat. 

The alluvial deposits overlying or covering the rocks in this pa- 
rish, are of the following kinds : — 

Upon the Ochill mountains are found beds of peat, debris of 
the rocks mixed with sand and gravel, and also what is termed the 
old alluvial cover. 

The cover along the mountain's foot over the coal formatioOf 
consists of the angular debris of the Ochills, mixed with sand and 
loam ; from thence to the river Devon and to the foot of the steep 
banks on the south side of that river, it consists of gravel, sand, 
and loam. Few large boulder-stones are to be seen ; those found oo 
the surface at the mountain's foot, are of greenstone. AdjoiDiog 
the holm-ground, is a very thick bed of brown plastic clay, very 
suitable for the manufacture of tiles, bricks, and common pottery. 
In this clay there are found angular and fantastic forms, of from 
an inch to three inches in length. They are hard, have a meagre 
feel, and have a portion of calcareous matter in their composition. 
These stones have attracted the attention of naturalists, as to the 
manner in which they have been formed ; but no satisfactory con- 
clusions have been come to. They are collected as curiosities, and 
they are sometimes used as slate-pens. 

All the alluvial cover upon the rising ground, south from the 
river Devon, is composed of what is termed the old alluvial cover, 
which abounds very much in the coal districts and uplands of Scot- 
land. It consists of an intimate mixture of clay, sand, small graTel, 
and boulder-stones of various sizes. It is without beds, is very com- 
pact, impervious to water, and difficult to work. It is remarkaible 
that no organic remains, either of the animal or vegetable kingdom, 
are found in this cover, although the rocks and strata upon which 
it rests, abound with innumerable petrifactions of shells and plants, 
such as are found in the coal-fields of Scotland. It is a most ste- 
rile substance; for although thrown up and exposed to the weather, 
it is long before any plant strikes upon it. In thickness it varies 



DOLLAR. 85 

much, being from a fathom to eight fathoms thicki when it has 
been sunk through ; but there is no doubt it is in some places 
much thicker, as in other places of the county. 

The thickness of the beds of gravel in this valley has not been 
ascertained, and at the foot of the Ochills are great mounds of this 
substance in these deposits. The boulder-stones are formed of trap 
rocks, and of hard and soft porphyry, from a small size to several 
hundred weight. 

With regard to the mines which have been wrought or aro now 
working in this parish, those in the Ochills have been given up long 
ago. Hitherto they have not been successful, and there is no pro- 
spect of their being set agoing. These metallic veins yielded both 
lead and copper. 

Mines of coal have been wrought in this parish for a long period 
of years ; but how long it is since coal was first wrought hero, is un- 
known. It is most likely that the first opening would be at Kelly- 
burn, east from the town of Dollar, as the coals and accompany- 
ing strata are there partially cut through by the water. The next 
operation was to lay dry a breast of coal, by means of a day level, 
which was commenced in the lands of Pitgober, in Muckhart parish, 
and was carried forward until it intersected the main coal, splint 
coal, and rough coals from the points of intersection of the throe 
coals. iThese coals have been wrought in a water level course, di- 
rected to near the Dollar-burn on the west, and to the eastward 
to the boundary of the parish, and not only so, but in continuation 
eastward into the Middleton coal-field, in the parish of Muckhart. 
After all the coals laid dry by the day level were wrought out, 
the main coal was fitted or laid dry to the dip north from the pre* 
sent turnpike-road, by means of a water-wheel for raising the wa- 
ter. This pit was 15^ fathoms deep to the main coal, and the wa- 
ter so raised was delivered from the pumps into the day level. By 
this operation, the main coal was wrought in a water level course di- 
rection on both sides of the water-engine pit The mines to the 
westward extended to the glebe belonging to the parish church, 
and to the east they extended into the Middleton coal-field, in the 
parish of Muckhart. 

The next winning or fitting of this coal-field was by means of a 
steam-engine, upon a pit considerably to the north of the water- 
mill pit in the lands of Kelly bank, in Muckhart parish. By this new 
operation, the splint coal was gained at the depth of 20 fathoms 
from the surface. To this pit the Pitgober day level was continued, 
and the water raised by the steam-engine was delivered into the 



86 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

day level at 10 fathoms from the surface. Of the splint coal verj 
little was wrought by this winning, the chief object being to work 
the rough coal, it being of superior quality, and commandiDg a 
ready sale, — and, in order to gain as large a breast of the rough coal 
by this fitting, a cross cut mine was run from the splint coal at the 
engine pit bottom, until it intersected the rough coal. This coal, bj 
this operation, was wrought westward as far as the garden grouDds 
belonging to the feuars of the old town of Dollar, and eastward in- 
to the Middleton coal-field. An attempt was made to work an addi- 
tional breast of this coal, by means of under-dip workings, to the Dorth 
of the engine-pit bottom, but a very Umited area of coal was wrought 
by this plan. After this, the engine was stopped in consequence 
of a law-suit, afterwards noticed, and the coal is now all underwater. 

It is now nine years since -any of the Dollar coal was wrought 

As the coals lying under the glebe lands, held in liferent by the 
parish minister, could be wrought in connection with these miniog 
operations, part of the glebe coals were wrought long ago at a cer- 
tain royalty for each ton, payable by the lessee of the Dollar col- 
liery to the parish minister, as was common in such cases. This 
took place during the incumbency of the late Rev. John Watson; 
but, as matters did not go on comfortably, the lessee gave up the 
working of this coal. 

Some considerable time after this, the whole of the coal in the 
glebe was purchased by the late Crawfurd Tait of Harviestoun, Esq. 
for the sum of L. 100 ; which sum is secured in perpetuity to the 
minister of the parish and his successors, the interest of which sum 
he draws annually from the proprietor of the estate, such being 
the law of the church in such cases. 

The greater part of the lands in the parish, with the coals and 
other minerals, belonged originally to the Duke of Argyle, and 
his Grace not only gave off small areas of land in perpetual feu, 
for payment of a feu-duty, but he also feued a great part of the Dol- 
lar or Castle Campbell barony in large areas for villas. In the 
greater part of these feus his Grace reserved the coal and the right 
of working the same under the usual servitudes. All the other mine- 
rals were the property of the feuars. In a few instances, the whole of 
the minerals, including the coals, were given along with the surface. 

In this reservation of the coal in these different feus, and the 
servitude of using the surface in some instances without paying any 
damages, a very great difficulty has arisen in the course of work- 
ing this coal-field as one continuous area of coal to which the su- 
perior has right, and this difficulty has already led to years of most 



DOLLAR^ 87 

expensive law-suits. The case is this : The property of Wester- 
town of Pitgober, in the parish of Muckhart, has a servitude of drain- 
age through it for all the coal under its surface. But the proprie- 
tor of the coal communicated the workings under Westertown 
with those contained in certain feus in Dollar. The proprietor 
of Westertown conceived, that, although he was obliged to submit 
to the drainage of certain coals on his lands, he was not obliged 
to submit to the drainage of the coal under these feus. After 
much litigation, this case was decided in the House of Lords in his 
favour. In consequence of this decision, the Dollar coal cannot 
now be drained as formerly, by means of the Pitgober day level, 
without the consent of the proprietor of the ground. 

None of the edge coals of the Dollar coal-basin, which lie in a 
conforming situation, have been wrought. The western part of the 
main coal terminates or crops out under the New Town of Dollar. 
To the westward of this point, the mountain foot within the parish 
is composed of rocks of the coal formation; but whether any work- 
able coals exist in this district within the parish, has not yet been 
ascertained. No coals have, hitherto, been found under the haugh 
or holm ground in the valley of the Devon ; and it is the opinion 
of mining engineers, that no coals will be found there excepting 
the thin coals under the mountain limestone. 

The Sheardale colliery has been wrought upon a very small 
scale, for a long period of years, and was drained by means of a 
day level, which discharges its water into the river Devon. Within 
these few years a " winning" has been made upon it, to the depth 
of 14 fathoms to the splint coal ; and this colliery is now wrought 
to the extent of 6000 tons yearly. 

With regard to dikes, slips, and dislocation of the strata, none 
but those of the most trifling kind have been found in the Dollar 
coal-basin; but the slips and dislocations are numerous in the 
Sheardale coal-field. The chief slip or dislocation hitherto dis- 
covered, is at or near the brow of the steep bank on the south side 
of the river Devon, which is supposed to throw the coal out to 
the north. This slip lies in a line nearly parallel with the face of 
the Ochills, and the chief great slips in the Clackmannanshire 
coal-field lie in the same line of direction. And it is worthy of 
remark, that, although the north part of the coal-field lies upon an 
immense mass of greenstone and trap rocks, no dikes of these last 
mentioned rocks have been seen in this parish, nor in any part of 
the Clackmannanshire coal-field. 

The beautiful valley through which the river Devon runs, is 



88 



CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 



here parallel with the face of the Ochtlls, and appearances lead to 
this conclusion, that a much more powerful river than what is seen 
at present has made the great excavation ; as the coal formation 
rocks on the steep banks, south side of the river Devon, are cut 
through from the top of the bank to a depth considerably below 
the present bed of the river. Upon the rocks to which this excava- 
tion is made, the recent alluvial loam, clay, and gravel are laid. 
Upon this subject, geologists have as usual theorized; and amongst 
the many theories brought forward, one is, that the waters of 
Loch Leven were, at one time, discharged through this valley of 
the Devon, until, by some natural convulsion, the loch found a new 
discharge for its waters to the south-east, forming the present river 
Leven. The levels of the surface betwixt the loch and the river 
Devon render this theory plausible and probable. 

As to the prices of coal, they vary from time to time ; but the 
rates are in general very moderate. At present, the price of coal 
at the Sheardale pits is from 4s. to 5s. per ton. 

The colliers can make from 3s. to 4s. a day. They provide their own 
tools and light At present, they do not pay any rent for their houses. 

Insects found in the Parish of Dollar. 

Pamus prolifericornts 



Colioptkra 
Cicindc]a campestris 
Droraius quaariinaculatus 
CHvina Fossor 
Dyscbirius gibbus 
Cycbrus rustratus 
Carabus eaten ulatus 

eanecllatus 

arvcnsis 

▼iolaceus 
Helubia brevieollis 

Gyllcnhallii 
Do. var. /8 
Leistus fulvibarbis 

rufescens 
Loriecra pilicornis 
Badister bipustulatus 
Cblwiiius nigricornis 
Ancbonienus prasiiius 

albipes 
Flatynus angusticollis 
Pristonychus Terricola 
Agonum marginatum 

parumpunctatum 
Calathus melanoecphalus 

Cistcloidcs 
Ar^jutor erythropus 
Pcrcilus cupreus 
Onioseus Nigrita 

melanarius 
Platysma niger 
Stcropus inadiilui 
Do. var. JB 
Abiix slriola 



Amara similata 
familiarU 
trivialis 
Brady t us apricarius 
Ilarpalus limbatus 
encus 
ruficornis 
Philocbthus biguttatus 
Peryphus littoralis 

tibialis 
Tachypus propcrans 
Rembidium paludosum 
Notiophilus biguttatus 
Elaphrus cupreus 
riparius 
Haliplus ferrugineus 
lincato-collis 
ruficollis 
Ilydroporus depressus 



auriculatus 
Elmis Volckmarii 
variabilis 
parallelopipedus 
Helophorus aquaticus 
granularis 
griseus 
Hydrobius fuscipes 

bipunctatus 
Corcyon obsolctum 
picinum 
suturalc 

melanocephalum 
hsmorrhoidale 
quisquilium 
Spbsridium quadrimacula- 

tum 
Lciodes humeralis 



lus 

Colymbetcs guttatus 

fuliginosus 

exsoletus 

bipunctatus 

Sturmii 

maculatus 

bipustulatus 

Alve 

fuse us 

Dytiscus mar^inalis 
punctulatus 

Acilius suleatus 

Gyriuus natator 



melanoccpba. Agathidium atrum 



Cholcva angustata 
Ptomaphagus truncatus 
Catops tristis 
Necrophorus Humator 
vestigator 
mortuorum 
Nccrodes littoralis 
Oiceoptoma rugosa 
Silpba obscura 

nigrita 

opaca 
Phosphuga atrata 
Do var. /S 
Nitidula bipuitulata 



DOLLAR. 



89 



Nitidiila oblonga 
Mellgethes teneua 

▼iridescens 
Pediculariiu 
Campta lutea 
Byturus tomeotosus 
Byrrhus pilula 
dorsalis 
uriceus 
Onthopbilus striatus 
Uister cadaTerinns 
carbonarius 
aeneus 
Geotrupes sylvaticus 

stercorarius 
Aphodius Fossor 

fiinetarius 
stictititus 
inquinatus 
terrestris 
rufipes 
merdarius 
Serica brunnea 
Fhyllopertha horticola 
Cataphagus obscurus 
limbatus 
marginatus 
Hypnoidus riparius 

quadripustula- 
tus 
Cteniccrus' pecteuicornis 
cupreus 

Do. VAT 

Anathrotus niger 

ruficaudis 

Aplotarsus testaceus 
rufipes 
Quercns 

Campylls linearis 

Atopa cervina 

Do..Tar^ando 

Cyphon marginatus 
melanurus 

Telephorus nisticus 
dlspar 
pellucidus 
lividus 
cyaneus 
nigricans 
pallidus 
testaceus 
pulicarius 
melanurus 
bicolor 

Malthlnus biguttulus 

Necrobia violacea 

Anobiam castaneum 
striatum 
moUe 

Cis Boleti 

Hylurgus ater 

Cionus Scrophulariie 
BlattarisB 

Nedyus assimilis 



Nedyus contractus 
poUinarius 
Grypidius Equiseti 

Hypera punctata 
arator 
Rumicis 
nigrirostris 
Hylobius Abietis 
Barynotus mercurialis 
Merionus obscurus 
davatus 
Otiorhynchus piceus 
8tropho8omus Coryli 
Sciaphilus muricatus 
Sitonia ulices 

tibialis 
Polydrussus undatus 
oblongus 
Pbyllobius pyri 
alui 

argentatus 
mall 

uniformis 
viridicollis 
Apion Rumicis 
Radiolus 
PLsi 
• iriolaceum 
▼irens 
flavipes 
apricans 
CaUidium striatum 
Rhagium bifasciatum 
Donacia cincta 
Proteus 
linearis 
Criooeris cyanella 

melanopa 
Galeruca tanaceti 
Capres 
Nymphi 
Luperus flavipes 
Haltica memorum 
Pseudacori 
tabida 
atricilla 
aerata 
ferruginea 
oleracea 
Sphsroderma testacea 
Chrysomela Litura 
var. L. 
▼arians 
fastuosa 
staphylaea 
polita 
pallida 
Phaedon betula 
tumidula 
marginella 
Vitellin» 
Polygon! 
Rhaphani 
Mclasoma Populi 



Helodes Beccabunga 
Cassida equestrls 

rubiginosa 
Coccinella septempunctata 
quinquepunctata 
undecimpunctata 
oblongo-guttata 
quatordecim gut« 

tata 
tredecimpunctata 
dispar 
Tariabilis 
Cacicula pectoralis 
Blaps mortisaga 
Anaspis obscura 
Mordella aculeata 
Meloe proscarabaeus 
Bolitobius atricapillus 
Tachyporus analis 
Creophilus maxilloeus 
Staphylinus pubescens 

castanopterus 
ffineocephalus 
Goerius olens 
Ocypus similis 
Quedius tristis 

suturalis 
Philonthus laminatus 
splendeos 
politus 
varians 
Othius fulgidus 
Stenus biguttatus 

DsaMAPTEaA. 

Lebia minor 

OaTHOFTKRA. 

Acbeta domestica 

NxuaoRKaA. • 
^shna varia 

forcipata 
Calepteryx Virgo 

TaiCHOPTBRA. 

Phryganea grandis 

HTMBNOPTBaA. 

Melitta picea 
Odynerus murinus 
Chrysis ignita 
Acrydium sabulatum 

Lbpidoptxra. 
Mancipium cardamines 
Melitsu artemisia 

Euphrosyne 
Argynnis Aglaia 
Cynthia Cardui 
Vanessa Atalanta 

lo. 

Urtice 
Hipparchia Megaera 



90 



CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 



HipparchU Polydama 
Pamphilus 
Janira 

Hyperanthus 
I^ycsna Phleas 
Polyommatus Anon 

Artaxerxes 
Alexis 
Anthrocera filipendula 
Smcrlnthus Populi 
Acheron tia Atropos 
Dtfilephila Porcellus 
Macroglossa Stellatarum 
liepialus liectus 
sylvinus 
Humuli 
Velicda 



Pygara bucepbala 
Cerura vinula 
Lasiocampa Quercui 
OrgyU antiqua 
Euthemonia Russula 
Phragmatobia fuliginosa 
Charasas graminis 
Thyatira batis 
Plusia Festuca 

PercoQtationis 

intei rogationis 

Gamma 

chrysitis 
Geomctra illunaria 

illustraria 
Camp»a Margaritata 



Hippwrchus Papilionarios 
Xantbosetia Zo^aoa 

Dim KA. 
Tabanus tropicus 
bovinut 
Paganns 

HoMALOFTCaA 

Hippoboaca equina 

HEMirTKXA. 

Pentatoma nifipes 
Nepa cinerea 
Notonecta glauca 
Corixa GeoffroyL 



The insects most destructive to fruit-trees and fruits in the pa- 
rish are : 

Acarus tellurius^ red spider ; A. holosericus^ scarlet acanis. 
— This and the preceding, similar in appearance, are often con- 
founded with each other. Both are destructive to the leaves 
of all fruit-trees, and particularly the peachy These insects are 
too common* The means usually employed for their destructioo 
are water with a little sulphur in it, thrown forcibly against the 
tree, from the pipe of a garden-engine, or other means. 

Eriosoma Maliy American blight. — This is the scourge of the 
apple tree, no part of which is exempt from it ; it is sometimes 
fou nd even in the pear. It exists ifi several gardens in the pa- 
rish, but not generally. Among the many means employed to get 
rid of this destructive insect, the most effectual is to employ a 
painter's brush in rubbing in, on the infected parts of the tree, a 
strong size made of glue, or any other similar substance. This to 
be continued so long as the pest appears. 

Coccus Ardorea^ tree coccus. — This insect, although usually 
confined to the forests, has found its way into the gardens, anil 
covers the smooth branches of the apple and pear in the form of a 
brown scale. It is very common, and may be destroyed by the 
same means as the preceding, or by a wash made of tobacco liquor, 
sulphur, nux vomica, and water. 

Anthonomus pomorum^ apple weevil. — The larvae of this little 
insect are destructive to the flower-buds of the apple. It is not very 
common here, although in some districts it does much injury. No 
means have hitherto been found to prevent its ravages. Where- 
ever it abounds, the bullfinch is always to be seen in proportion, 
and is its natural destroyer. 

Polydrusus ohlongusy a weevil, the larva; of which destroy 



DOLLAR. 91 

the unexpanded blossoms of the pear. It is not very common in 
the gardens, but is plentiful on the hawthorn and other trees. The 
same remarks apply for its destruction as in the preceding. 

Yponamenta padella. — The larvae of this insect are very injuri- 
ous to the apple tree, sometimes dislea6ng every branch. It does 
not frequently appear here, but is too common in many other parts« 
The most efficacious method to destroy it, is to pick the webs and 
insects off with the hand, as soon as they appear. 

Phalcena pomonella^ P. grossularicB, and P. wavaria, — The 
caterpillars of these three moths almost yearly commit great ra- 
vages on the leaves of the respective trees which they inhabit. Va- 
rious means are employed to destroy them, but the most effectual 
is to pick them with the hand. 

Nematus Ribesii^ gooseberry fly, — The caterpillar of this fly 
also does considerable injury to the leaves of the gooseberry tree, 
and can only be subdued by picking. 

Lampronia capitella. — The Jarvae of this insect enter the points 
of the young shoots on the currant tree, eating their way down- 
wards : thus destroying the young wood. This insect does not 
confine its depredations to the currant alone ; the tender shoots 
of many other shrubs are injured by it. Its progress can only be 
arrested by removing the injured parts. 

Aphis cerasiy black fly. — Infesting the young shoots of the 
cherry tree ; very common. 

The green fly, a species of Aphis, is the pest of all fruit- 
trees, and of almost every other plant ; appearing on the tender 
points in considerable numbers. This and the preceding are 
easily destroyed, by washing the trees with tobacco water, or fu- 
migation with the same material. 

Fespa vulffaris^ the Wasp ; and Formicula auricula ta^ the 
earwig, destroy pulpy fruits. The first may be taken in quantities 
by a common bottle half-filled with water and sugar; the latter, by 
tubes of tin, or even pieces of hollow bean-straw placed near their 
haunts. 

Birds. — In the parish of Dollar, besides its due portion of the 
more common birds, there are several very rare ones, such as 

Parus palustris Motacilla regulus I.oxia pyrrhula 

ater Kallus aquaticus Fringilla carduelis 

caudatus Loxia curvirostra Alcedo ispida 

Of the Falco order that occasionally appear in and near the vil- 
lage, we have seen the following : 

Falco Tiniuinculus F. cyaneus F. ^Esalon F. nisui 



92 



CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 



To show the strength of wing, and keenness of pursuit of rapa- 
cious birds after their prey, we may here mention that in the sum- 
mer of 1838, a female sparrow-hawk, in pursuit of a small bird, 
smashed and drove through a pane of glass in a private house. 
Other instances of the same kind have occurred here. 

Botany. — 

List qf' Plants found in Dollar and its neighbourhood: 



Ligustnim vulgare 
Circea Lutetiana 

alpina 
Veronica alpina 

scutellata 

Anagallis 

officinalis 
Pinguicula vulgaris 
Anthoxanthum odoratum 
Valeriana Fyrenaica 
Pedia olitoria 
Eriophorum v^inatum 



Convallaria majalis 
Juncus trigluDiis 
Hyacinthus nonacriptus 
Luzula otazima' . 
Berberis vulgaris 
Trientalis Europaeus 
Epilobium angustifolium 

alsinifolium 
Vaccinium Vitis-idsEa 

Oxycoccos 
Paris quadrifolia 
Adoza MoschateUina 



Melica nutans 
uniflora 
Poa rigida 
Montia fontana 
Dipsacus fullonum 
Sherardia arvensis 
Asperula odorata 
Galium cruciatum 

sazatiie 
Parietaria officinalis 
Potamogeton nutans 
fiuitans 
Myosotis palustris 
versicolor 
Pulmonaria officinalis 
Symphytum officinale 
Echium vulgare 
Lycopsis arvensis 
Primula veris 
Lysmachia Nummularia 
Anagallis ca>rulea 
Poleraonium cairuleum 
Campanula latifolia 
Solanum Dulcamara 
Viola palustris 
tricolor 
Erytlirasa centaurea 
Gentiana campcstris 
Viburnum opulus 
Parnassia palustris 
Drosera rotundifolia 
Allium ursinum 



augnstifolium Pyrola media 



mmor 
Chrysosplenium altemifo- 

lium 
Saxifraga stellaris 
aixoides 
caespitosa 
granulata 
Stellaria nemorum 
Holostea 
Arcnaria trinervis 

verna 
Sedum Telephium 
villosum 
Anglicum 
Oxalls Acetosella 
Reseda I.uteola 
Prunus Padus 
Rosa arvensis 
Rubus Jdaeus 
Saxatilis 
Cbamaemorus 
Comarum palustre 
Papaver Argemone 
Cistus Heliautbemum 
Anemone ncmorosa 
Ranunculus Lingua 

Hederaccus 
auricorous 
Trolllus Europaeus 
Galeobdolon luteum 
Mclampyrum sylvaticum 



Lathrea squamaria 
Linaria Cymbalaria 
Scrophularia aqumtioi 
Cardamine amara 
Draba verna 
Barbarea yulgaris 
Hesperis matronalis 
Geranium sylvaticum 
pratense 
lucidum 
dissectum 
columbinum 
Malva Moscbata 
Fumaria claviculata 
Genista ang^ca 
Ulex nanus 
Orobus tuberosus 
Vicia sylvatica 
Omithopus perpusillus 
Hypericum buoiifusum 

pulchrum 
Bidens cemua 

tripartita 
Eupatorium cannabinum 
Orchis latifolia 
mascula 
maculata 
Gymnadenia conopcea 
Listera ovata 
cordata 
nidus-avis 
Habenaria viridis 
albida 
bifolia . 
Epipactis latifolia 
Salix herbacea 
Empetrum nigrum 
Polypodium Phegopteris 
Dryopteris 
Scolopendrium vulgare 
Botrychlum Lunaria 
Equisetum Drummondii 
Agaricus campestris 
Peziza aurantia. 



Trees. — The parish throughout is interspersed with plantations, 
belts, and hedge-row trees, of all the sorts usually cultivated in 
this country, viz. oak, ash, and elm, beech, plane, and the fir 
tribes. The rowan and the birch appear indigenous in Castle- 
Campbell Glen ; the alder to the banks of the Devon ; and the 
wild-cherry or gean is also a native tree. Of late years, the more 
rare hardy trees, as t\\e c\\esluv\\.%,\<^tN\\\^Tcv^^e^^^xA^>\\V^^ ^\v\ 



DOLLAR. 93 

American oaks have been introduced into ornamental plantations. 
In general, the whole, both common and uncommon, appear to 
grow in the greatest luxuriance. The soil in the low grounds is 
more congenial to the growth of hard-wooded trees, where they 
have, with few exceptions,. been planted. The high grounds are 
more suitable for the larch and Scotch fir. Fruit-trees have been 
planted with variable success. The apple, for a few years, grows 
with vigour, and bears fruit ; but as soon as the roots penetrate 
the subsoil — which is in many places a retentive clay — the trees 
begin to canker, and gradually decay. The soil appears more 
r adapted to the growth of the pear; even the oldest trees are, for 
the most part, healthy, and in favourable seasons produce fruit in 
abundance. The plum and the cherry are seldom planted. 

Although there are a number of old trees scattered over the 
parish, few present any remarkable appearance for size or singula** 
rity of form. About thirty yards from the entrance to Castle-Camp- 
bell, on the north, there stands a group of aged plane trees, one 
of which measures 13 feet in circumference, at about 8 feet from 
the ground. This tree is remarkable for the singular beauty and 
symmetry of its form. From the earliest remembrance, it has 
borne the name of ^^ the Maiden Tree." The whole group are 
very old, but still retain the vigour of health. 

Near the church there are a few old trees, chiefly ash. One 
of them, some years since, presented a curious study to the vege- 
table physiologist. The trunk had become hollow, with an aper- 
ture at the bottom. A considerable quantity of decayed matter 
had accumulated within. A root, apparently from the insertion of 
a large limb, descended, lining the internal cavity with its long 
and slender rootlets, many of them luxuriating in the vegetable 
substance below. This decayed vegetable matter has been gra- 
dually exhausted, and the roots have since disappeared. 

II. — Civil History. 
Eminent Men. — We cannot omit to take some notice of Dean 
Thomas Forrest, commonly called the Vicar of Dollar, who suf- 
fered martyrdom for his liberal opinions. Spottiswood, in his His- 
tory of the Church of Scotland, informs us, that there was a meet- 
ing of Bishops held at Edinburgh, in the month of February 1538, 
when five persons were accused of heresy. Among these was 
the Vicar of Dollar, Thomas Forrest, who, some time before the 
meeting, " had been called before the Bishop of Dunkeld, his or* 
dinary, for preaching every Sunday to his parishioners upon the 



94 CLACKMANNANdHIRB. 

Epistles and Gospels of the day, and desired to forbear, seeing 
his diligence that way brought him in suspicion of heresie. If he 
could 6nd a good Gospel or a good Epistle that made for the li- 
berty of the holy Church, the Bishop willed him to preach that to 
hts*people, and let the rest be. The honest man replying, That 
he had read both the New Testament and the Old, and that he 
had never found an ill Epistle or an ill Gospel in any of them, 
the Bishop said, I thank God I have lived well these many years, 
and never knew either the old or new. I content me with my por- 
tuis and pontificall ; and if you, Dean Thomas, leave not these 
fantasies, you will repent when you cannot mend it. Dean Tho- 
mas answered. That he believed it was his duty to do what he did, 
and that he had laid his accompt with any danger that might fol- 
low. So at this time being brought in question with the other 
four persons, they were all together condemned, and burnt in the 
fire upon the Castlehill of Edinburgh." 

John Macnah, — Dollar Institution. — There is another person, 
a native of this parish, whom we must not pass over with a sum- 
mary notice, as he was the endower of what now forms the most 
remarkable feature in the parish, viz. the Dollar Institution. We 
mean^John Macnab. He was not distinguished by his parentage 
or learning, but eminently so by the munificent bequest which he 
made to his native parish. His parents were poor. It appears 
from the session records that John Macnab was baptized in the 
church of Dollar, on 14th May 1732. He attended occa^^ion- 
ally the parish school: and it is said he herded cattle, even 
after he became a grown lad ; but, being tired of this occupation, 
he set off one day to Kincardine, the nearest sea-port, and engag- 
ed himself with a coasting trader. Afterwards, he went to sea 
again, and determined to try his fortune on the deep. We are 
told upon very good authority, that when he set out for Leith to 
get on board a sliip there, he had not a farthing in his pocket; 
and that when he came to the Queensferry, he was unable to pay 
his passage across, though the demand was only three half- 
pence. Out of this difficulty he was relieved by the kindness of 
a person who lived in Dollar, and who knew him. After crossing 
the ferrv, they both walked together to Edinburgh. Tbev 
separated at Edinburgh, and at parting his kind acquaintance 
gave him a sixpence to enable him to make his way to Leith ; 
where he engaged himself with the master of a ship. While 
at sea he saved some money, and afterwards became wjiat is 



DOLLAR. 95 

called a ship-husbaDd. In this business, he was very success* 
ful, and amassed a considerable fortune. He came to London, 
and settled in the neighbourhood. It was there that he added 
considerably to his former fortune, by several fortunate specu- 
lations in buying stock. At his death, it was found that he had 
amassed a very considerable fortune, invested in ships, and in the 
funds and other Government securities. By his will, he ordered 
the whole to be collected into one sum, the half of which he be- 
queathed to his cousin, John Macnab. The other half of his for- 
tune he ordered to be laid out in the public funds, or some such 
security, to bring an annual income for the benefit of a charity or 
school for the poor of the parish of Dollar, his native parish. The 
half of his property thus bequeathed to Dollar was of a conside- 
rable amount, being no less than L. 90,000 three per cents, be- 
sides certain small legacies. The stock set apart to pay these an- 
nuities was at the death of the annuitants to be added to the Dollar 
charity or school fund, and which has now been actually done. 

His will is dated 8th of May 1800, a few months after he had 
paid a visit to his native parish, in Scotland, with the view of as- 
certaining to what purposes, and under what management, the le- 
gacy which he was then meditating could be best applied. He 
added a codicil on 12th January 1802, bequeathing to his house- 
keeper an additional L.50. The will, though oddly worded, from 
his defective scholarship, was sustained as a legal deed in Doctors 
Commons. But, in consequence of his executors refusing to act, 
the money was thrown into Chancery, which led to a long-pro- 
tracted litigation. The Court of Chancery admitted that the mi- 
nister and elders of the parish were the trustees of the fund accord- 
ing to the will ; but, before handing over to them the money, it 
was at first insisted that the kirk-session should exhibit, for the 
approbation of the Court, a scheme of the way in which they 
meant to dispose of the legacy. In compliance with this request, 
on the part of the Court of Chancery, the kirk session of Dollar 
laid before it a plan for erecting a great hospital or poor house, 
(misinterpreting, as we think, the meaning of the word charity in 
the will). When this intended scheme came to the ears of the 
heritors, they became naturally alarmed for their properties, — see- 
ing at once the injury it might eventually do them, if poor were 
collected from all quarters, and the whole parish converted into a 
great lazar-house. Accordingly they, and especially Mr Tait of 
Harviestoun, the principal heritor, who was most anxious for the es- 



96 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

tablishment of a great seminary for educatioD, made every eflFort 
to defeat the scheme* But as the heritors were not trustees, and 
consequently had no right to interfere in the management, the 
Court of Chancery was disposed to give in to the views of the mi- 
nister and elders. Accordingly, after certain modifications of the 
scheme proposed, the court was inclined to sanction the erection 
of a poor's house. Sir William Grant, then Master of the Rolls, 
had actually approved of the scheme of a poor's house ; but, be- 
fore he issued his order, Mr Watson, the then minister, died, and 
the writer of this account was presented to the living, by Mr Tait, 
the patron. On becoming minister of the parish, he immediately 
put into the Court of Chancery, his claim to be heard on the 
subject of the appropriation of the legacy, and, by the advice of 
an eminent lawyer. Sir Islay Campbell, late President of the 
Court of Session, he urged this plea, — that, since the legacy was 
left for behoof of persons residing in Scotland, the Court of Chan- 
cery in England had no right to dictate or control the trustees \n 
the disposal of the funds ; and since they had already found that 
the ministers and elders of the parish were the trustees named in 
the will, they should at once put them in possession of. the money 
bequeathed, leaving it to them to dispose of the legacy pursuant 
to the will of the testator, but subject to the control of the courts 
in Scotland. Lord Eldon, who was Lord Chancellor at the time, 
entered into these views, and pronounced a decretal order, that 
the half-yearly dividends, accruing from the stock belonging to 
the Dollar School, which had been vested in the funds in the name 
of the Accountant- General of Chancery, should be paid over to 
the minister and elders of the parish of Dollar, to be by them ap- 
plied for the benefit of a charity or school for the poor of the said 
parish of Dollar, pursuant to the will of the testator, John Macnab. 
We then urged a new plea, viz. that, since the Lord Chancellor 
had ordered the half-yearly dividends arising from the stock in the 
funds belonging to the Dollar School at the death of the testator, 
to be paid to the minister and elders of Dollar, ^he should also 
order that the dividends which had been accumulatinc: for more 
than sixteen years since the death of the testator in January 1802, 
should be paid over to the said minister and elders. This Lord Eldon 
admitted to be reasonable, and pronounced an order accordingly. 
The legacy paid into Chancery, by Mr Macnab's executors, for be- 
hoof of the Dollar School, when vested in the 3 per cents, amount- 
ed to L. 55,110, 9s. 2(1. of that kind of stock; and on the Slst 

c 



DOLLAR. 97 

December 18*25, with the accumulated dividends, and after pay- 
ing all previous expenses of buildings, salaries, &c. it amounted to 
L* 74,256, 9s. 1 Id. of 3 per cent stock, yielding an yearly income 
of L. 2227, 13^ 8d. Sterling. 

Since then, the legacy of L. 100, left to Mrs Jellard, and the 
legacy of L 50, left to Miss Edwards, has fallen into the Dollar 
school fund, which gives an addition of L.150 to the yearly in- 
come. But thi^ annual income has somewhat diminished since 
1325, by the trustees buying up the superiority of the grounds be- 
longing to the school, and certain feus adjoining ; and also by 
building another teacher^s house. The superiority and the new 
house together cost nearly L.7500. 

Now to meet this outlay, it was necessary to sell out L.7111, 
lis. three per cent, stock, which has reduced the yearly income to 
L.2057. To this may be added something more than L.lOO, aris- 
ing from school-fees, and the small feus which the trustees have 
purchased ; and the feu-duty formerly payable to the superior is 
now saved. 

The next point to be noticed is the mode in which these ample 
funds have been disposed of. The trustees having made up their 
minds that a school and not an alms-house was meant by the tes- 
tator, the next point was, how the funds could best be expended, 
seeing that they were more ample than was necessary for procur- 
ing for the poor the mere ordinary branches of education, taught 
at parish schools. After serious deliberation, they adopted the 
opinion, that it was within the sound exercise of the latitude given 
them by the very general terms of the will, for them to establish 
a great seminary of education in the parish ; in which, while the 
immediate object would be that of teaching the poor the ordinary 
branches of instruction, classes should be opened for the higher 
branches of education, in order that the more industrious and ta- 
lented among the poor scholars might be enabled to obtain that 
knowledge, which might fit them for rising above their present le- 
vel in society, and for acquiring both riches and reputation in the 

world. 

But, before taking the necessary steps for this purpose, the 
trustees deemed it prudent to take the opinion of counsel, both 
with regard to the extent of their powers under the will, and also 
the soundness of the views which they entertained repecting the 
application of the funds intrusted to them. In these views, they 
were confirmed by the opinion of the most eminent counsel at the 

CL<VCKMANNAN. O 



98 CLACKMANNANSHIllE. 

bar, Messrs Cranston, Thomson, and Jeffrey. Proceeding on 
the same advice, the trustees allowed a free admission to the chil- 
dren of the poor of the parish of Dollar, and to all others, whether 
natives of the parish or occasional settlers, on payment of school- 
fees. Counsel were also of opinion that the trustees might make 
allowances to assist the more deserving of the poor scholars after 
they had left school, either in the farther prosecution of their 
education, or in following any of the mechanical professions. The 
trustees, therefore, set about the erection of a large public build- 
ing, corresponding to the ample means thdy possessed, and to the 
number of classes they intended to open — giving to each class a 
separate class-room. For some of the more important of the 
classes they appointed teachers iniimediately — providing temporary 
accommodation for them, and the rest they added when the build- 
ing was completed. The design of the building was given by 
William Playfair, Esq. architect, Edinburgh. It is a Grecian 
building, 186 feet in length, and 63 feet in breadth. In the 
centre of the front, which looks to the west, there is an ele- 
gant portico of six columns, and the top of the wall all round 
is surmounted with a block course to conceal the different roo& 
and chimneys. The whole of the centre of the building is occu- 
pied by a great hall, or library, 45^ feet in length, and 45 feet io 
breadth, which is lighted by a cupola in the roof, the height from 
the upper part of the dome, which is supported by fluted columns, 
being 45 feet to the floor. The rest of the building is occupied 
by commodious and lofty class-rooms, the trustees' room, in which 
is a museum, and the janitor's house. 

The different teachers appointed by the trustees of the Dollar 
Institution are as follows : A teacher of English, a teacher of 
writing and arithmetic, a teacher of Latin ^nd Greek, a teacher 
of modern languages, a teacher of drawing, a teacher of 
mathematics, and also a female teacher of sewing and fancy- 
work for the girls of the parish. A class for geography is like- 
wise taught for six months during summer, and an infant school- 
house has been added to the establishment. There is also a class 
for botany taught during the summer months. The appoint- 
ments of all the masters are during the pleasure of the trus- 
tees. The first arrangement, with regard to the income of the 
masters, was to give each a fixed salary, with a house, for teach- 
ing the poor children of the parish gratis ; and they were farther 
allowed to exact from those pupils who were not entitled to gratis 



DOLLAU. 99 

education, certain fixed fees for each class thev attended. But as 
this arrangement of allowing masters to exact fees was represented 
as creating an invidious distinction between the children who paid 
fees to the masters, and those who paid nothing, the system was 
changed, and no fees were allowed to be received by the masters ; 
but the fees fixed by the trustees were appointed to be levied 
quarterly by the treasurer of the institution, from the pupils not 
entitled to gratis education. The fees paid to the institution are 
quite trifling ; and rise by a graduated scale corresponding to 
the supposed ability of parents to pay. The highest fees are 
paid by boarders, or those who have no domicile in the parish. 
The quarterly payments made by them are 5s. for each class 
they attend ; while those on the lower grade, or the income of 
whose parents is supposed not to exceed L.30, pay only 8d. perquar« 
ter for each class they attend ; and if there are more than one attend- 
ing school in the same family, the rest are admitted at half-price. 
Besides the school-fees, each pupil, not on the foundation, pays a 
small sum quarterly for coals, cleaning the school and library ; and 
this contribution, like the school-fees, is levied upon a gradual 
scale, and with the same deduction, if more than one of a family 
are in attendance on school at the same time. 

For some years after the.first opening of the Dollar Institution, 
besides the education of the parishioners, it had considerable ce- 
lebrity as an establishment for boarders from oth^r parts of the 
country, the masters being allowed to receive boarders into their 
houses, who are admitted to the different classes of the institution 
on paying the highest rate of fees. Of late years, the number of 
boarders has much diminished, which may in a great measure be 
attributed to the short-sighted conduct of certain wrong-headed 
persons among the parishioners. The trustees were anxious to 
encourage the boarding system, both because it was beneficial to 
the master, and more especially with a vi^w to the benefit of the 
parish generally, and particularly to the shop-keepers and trades- 
men, to whom boarders give a great deal of employment : but 
certain of the parishioners set themselves, in almost every re- 
spect, against the system which the trustees, on the opinion of the 
first counsel of the time, had adopted, and, amongst other things, 
had the indiscretion to advertise in the newspapers, that they hoped 
no gentleman would send his children to Dollar, to derive any ad- 
vantage from a legacy, which was destined solely for the benefit 
of the poor. This, as may be well supposed, had the worst eflect ; 



100 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

and though the sentiments, even of those who were hostile to the 
trustees, are now much changed, yet the injury done by this rash 
step is scarcely retrievable ; and although the jealousies and dis- 
putes which had been excited, have now much subsided, they have 
necessarily operated to the prejudice of the school* Notwithstand- 
ing these unpleasant occurrences ; and although in as far as con- 
cerns the trustees, and more especially the minister, Macnab's 
legacy has not added to their comfort ; — at the same time, there can 
be no doubt, considerable good has been done. Many of the 
children of the poor have received a liberal education, which, had 
it not been for the legacy, they had little chance of obtaining. 
Many of them, it is but right to state, have been the most distin- 
guished scholars in all the different classes, and have regularly 
carried off the most valuable prizes ; and although, as is to be ex- 
pected, many of them lose the advantages of such an education, by 
entering into professions where it is not required, and in some in- 
stances contract bad habits, which render their superior education 
a curse, rather than a blessing, by increasing their powers and 
means of doing mischief; yet many of the children of the poor, 
in consequence of the superior education they have received at 
Macnab's school, have risen to respectable situations in life. 
Some of them have become distinguished parochial schoolmasters, 
and tutors in gentlemen's families. Others of them have got si- 
tuations as clerks in mercantile houses ; and not a few have be* 
come merchants themselves in different lines, and have been hiffhly 
successful in business. A great number of pupils from the academv, 
after Bnishihg their education, have been sent out as gardeners, 
and have got into very respectable situations in the gardens of the 
nobility and gentry in various parts of the country. We omitted 
to mention, that, besides an extensive lawn around the public 
building, the grounds on the north of the academy park, consisting 
of several acres, have been formed into a garden and nursery, where 
every kind of culinary and horticultural produce, besides shrubs, 
trees, and flowers, are raised. A certain number of the pupils of 
the academy, who have finished their general education, are al- 
lowed to enter the garden as apprentices, where, under' the super- 
intendence of an experienced and scientific gardener, they are in- 
structed in all the branches of gardening. They also attend a 
class for drawing in the evening; and with some other pupils, both 
male and female, receive lessons in botany from the master gar- 
dener. In this way they become qualified for places in o-cntlc- 



V. DOLLAR. lOl 



*% 



* ^%ien's gardens. The number of pupils of both sexes who attend 
' the different classes is at present above 200.* 

* •• Land'Owners, — The principal land-owners in the parish are, the 
^ Globe Insurance Ccimpany, (formerly Crawfurd Tait, Esq.); Wil- 
liam Clark of Dollarbeg ; Robert Haig of Dollar6eld ; Mrs Diin- 
canson of Wester Sheardale ; John M* Arthur Moir of Hillfoot ; 
and James Erskine of Aberdona. 

Parochial Registers. — The minutes of the kirk-session of Dollar 
commence in May 1701, and continue to the present time, with 
the exception of six years, viz. from October 1736 to May 1742^ 
during which period no register seems to have been kept There 
are three volumes of minutes, containing the transactions of thekirk- 
session, from 1701 till October 1834, with the above exception, and 
one in progress. The register contains nothing deserving of notice ; 
it is entirely filled with notices of births, deaths,- marriages, and 
cases of church discipline. The two first volumes are very care- 
lessly kept. The names of the persons who compose the sederunt 
of the meeting are seldom given, so that it is often difficult to as- 
certain who was minister at the time. 

Ministers. — There have been four ministers in Dollar since the 
Revolution, the present incumbent making the fifth. The names of 
the four first are, John Gray, William Walker, Robert Finlay, and 
John Watson ; but, from the want of sederunts, we are unable to 
give the time when they first began their ministry. In the former 
Statistical Account, Mr Gray is said to have been ordained in 
1709; but this is incorrect; for we find his name in the minutes 
several years previous to that date.f Mr Gray died in the year 

* Reference may here be made to the notice in the Old Account of^he Literary 
Shepherd, John Christie, who tended his own sheep on the farm of Craiginnan on the 
White Wisp Hill, one of the Ochills. 

f Mr Gray received the nickname of the Baron, from the circumstance of his hav- 
ing purchased two baronies during his incumbency, the one in Fifeshire, and the 
other in Fossaway parish. See further particulars respecting these purchases in a 
note, page 166 of the former Statistical Account. It is said he pM for the two ba« 
roniea. "nearly L. 5000— a large sum in those days ; and that the custom of his pa- 
rishioners depositing in his hands the smaU sums they scraped toMtfier supplied him 
with the money for making these purchases. On one occasion, wbtn a run was made 
upon him from his credit having become doubtful, it is said he arranged along the 
wall of his deposit room, k number cf pewter pint stoups, filled nearly to the mouth 
with sand. Into the few inches near the top, not filled with sand, he put a 
number of guineas, half guineas, crowns, half crowns, shillings, &c. The first who 
came for his money, was frankly told he would have it, and it was immediately dealt 
out to him from the pewter stoups. The poor man, on seeing there was no want of 
money, as he supposed, returned what he had drawn, and begged the minister to keep 
it for him, as he had no use for it. Tliis incident had a similar effect upon the o'.hcr 
claimants; and by this ing^ious contrivance, did the minister of Dollar stave off a 
rather formidable run upon Jps resources, for be bad reaUy laid out the greater part 
of his deposits in buying lat^.'- 



102 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

1745 ; and left at his death a small legacy of 300 merks Scots for 
the behoof of the poor of the parish. He bequeathed hb whole 
property to his only daughter, Jean Gray, who died in the year 
1792. A few years before her death, she sold all the landed pro- 
perty left her by her father, viz. the two baronies» by whidi she 
realized no less than L. 20,000. At her death, she left several 
considerable legacies ; among the rest, L.50 to the poor of the pa- 
rish of Dollar, and a very beautiful larfi^ folio Baskerville Bible to 
the kirk-session, for the use of the minister. 

The only other minister of Dollar who attracted any kind of 
public notice, was Mr Robert Finlay, the third minister after 
Presbytery was again established. He was much esteemed by the 
parish, and was a person of great humour.* 

Antiquities, — There are no crosses or obelisks or ruins of reli- 
gious houses in the parish, and no medals or coins have been dug 
up. There are two tumuli, the one in the north-east corner of the 
old village, and the other about half a mile to the west, on the 
borders of the old turnpike road. Both of them have been open- 
ed, and they are found to contain urns filled with bones : but oo- 
thing is known of their history. A man is said to have been burnt 

* The following incident in bis history .is too remarkable to pass unnoticed : 
About the year 1767, Sir John Stewart of Allanbank gave a presentation to Mr !)»• 
vid Thomson, minister of Gargunnock, to the vacant parish of St Ninians. Mr 
Thomson was not acceptable to the parishioners of St Ninians, « ho opposed it, and 
were joinei! in their opposition by the Presbytery of Stirling, who refused to trans- 
late Mr Thomson to St Ninians, on the ground that in their opinion he bad noti 
sufficient call. The settlement or translation was, for one re^ison or another, bung up 
for about eight years. At last, the General Assembly gave a peremptory order to the 
Presbytery of Stirling to proceed with the settlement, and even name^l the particular 
day on which they were to induct Mr Thomson ; ordering at the same time every 
member of Presbytery to be present at the induction. The Presbytery, after this* 
considered it unsafe to delay the induction longer, and therefore they resolved, though 
with great reluctance, to obey the order of the supreme court. The question now 
was, which of their number was to act as Moderator on the occasion. All of them 
wished to decline what they reckoned a disagreeable duty ; but Mr FinUy raidily 
undertook it." Accordingly, on the day named by the Assembly, (the last Tuesday of 
June,) the Presbytery met at St Nii.ians, and after the usual sermon, Mr Finlay 
proceeded with the induction ; but, whether from forgetfulness, or by way of showing 
his contempt for the presentee, he omitted to put to him the questions which are usu- 
ally put on the occasion ; but, what was worse, when he came to pronounce the xftrba 
so/cmnlu o{ the induction^ instead of saying — I, in the name of the Presbytery of 
Stirling, declare you, Mr 1 homson, minister of the parish of St Ninians, with all the 
privileges and emoluments thereunto belonging ; he merely said, I apfxiint you, Mr 
Thomson, to be stipend lifter of this parish. 'J'his, as mi^ht well be supposed, gave 
great offence to the parishioners of St Ninians, and to the churches in general. The 
consequence was, that six of the elders and a number of the heritors of the parish gave 
in a petition and complaint to the General Assembly against Mr Finlay, which was 
served upon him, and he was appointed to be summoned to appear at the bar of the 
Assembly to answer the said complaint. Mr Finlay compeared at the bar, and nmdc 
such an acknowledgement as satisfied the Assembly, after being &harply rebuked ly 
the Moderator. 



DOI.I.AR. 103 

as a wizard, at the foot of Gloomhill, a little to the north-east of 
Dollar, towards the close of the sixteenth century. The wood'^n 
stake to which he was tied by the executioner, was still standing, fifty 
years ago ; but, being completely rotten, one of the lairds of Hillfoot 
on whose property it stood, removed it and put a stone in its place to 
mark the site, which still remains. The principal antiquity in the 
parish is the ruins of Castle Gloom or Castle Campbell. It is a 
place obviously of great antiquity ; but it is not known, when or by 
whom the castle was first built. The thickness of the walls, and 
the facilities which it possesses for annoying assailants and de- 
fending those within, plainly show that it was intended for a place 
of security in those times when Scottish barons were continually 
at war with one another. It seems to have been built at different 
times ; or at least large additions have been made to the origin- 
al structure. The latest built is obviously the southern part, 
which is now in a state of perfect ruin ; — but the keep, which ap- 
pears to be the oldest part of the edifice, is still comparatively 
in a state of good preservation. The outlines of the hall with its 
lofty ceiling, and other rooms of the same magnitude, are still 
easily traced, with the narrow openings for windows in walls of 
enormous thickness, which must have given the rooms an air of 
magnificence and of gloomy grandeur to their inmates, as well as 
a feeling of great security. The steps of the spiral staircase, 
which leads to the top, are a good deal wasted by time and the 
weather; but they still afford a safe ascent, though steep and fa- 
tiguing. The roof of the tower or keep is a square, or rather ob- 
long, of considerable dimensions, covered with turf, where many a 
fete champetre has been of late years held, and where dancing par- 
ties have amused themselves in the moon-light. From the top of 
the keep, the view to the south is extremely beautiful, including 
the Kills of Linlithgow and Stirlingshire, and Tinto,*in Lanark- 
shire, in the distance, with the quiet village of Dollar immediately 
below, and its tiny stream, like a silver thread, winding its way to 
the Devon. The view of the wooded banks on both sides of the 
castle, is picturesque in the highest degree. There appears to 
have been large vaults under the south part of the castle, for 
stables, cellars, and other purposes. These vaults seem to have 
run under ground for a considerable extent beyond the wails of 
the castle ; at least the reverberating sound which is heard on strik- 
ing with the foot the green swarJ in front of the building, would 
lead to this conclusion. 



104 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

We believe it is pretty generally known that this castle, venera- 
ble for its antiquity, was consigned to the flames by the Marquis 
of Montrose in the year 1644. After the battles of Auldeame and 
Alford, in the north, in which the gallant Marquis was completely 
successful, he determined to march to the south of Scotland, in 
order to put a final period, as he boasted, to the power of the Co- 
venanters; and the decisive victory which he gained next year at 
Kilsyth, nearly showed that it was no empty boast. On his way 
to the south, after his great success in the north, he made a halt 
at Kinross, and proceeded westward to Dollar, to burn the castle 
there, and the houses in the neighbourhood belonging to the vas* 
sals of the Earl of Argyle. Not content with wreaking their veo* 
geance on the proud castle of their feudal enemy, they burnt at 
the same time every house in Dollar and Muckhart; the inha- 
bitants of both parishes being vassals of the Duke of Argyle. It 
is said two houses, the one in Dollar and the other in Muckhart, 
escaped the vengeance of the savage clans, through a mistake on 
their part. The one in Dollar they imagined belonged to the ab« 
bey of Dunfermline; and the other being situated on the borders 
of Fossaway parish, they supposed to belong to- that parish, and 
not to Muckhart. 

It appears from charters belonging to the family of Argyle, that 
the Lordship of Campbell, on which the castle stands, was in the 
possession of that family as far back as the year 1465, and con- 
tinued in their possession till 1805, when the lordship of Camp- 
bell, with the castle, was purchased by Crawfurd Tait, Esq. the pro- 
prietor of the adjoining estate of Harviesloun, In the year 1489, 
by Act of the Scottish Parliament, the name of Castle- Gloom 
was changed to Castle- Campbell, by which name it is now gene- 
rally known. It is correctly stated in the former Statistical Ac- 
count of Ddlar, that the lands called the lordship of Campbell 
were held of the Bishop of Dunkeld : but it has been said errone- 
ously by others, that Castle- Campbell was given by Shevez, Bi- 
shop of St Andrews, to the Earl of Argyle, as a reward for his 
having been an abettor in the disputed title of precedency between 
the Archbishop of St Andrews and the Archbishop of Glasgow. 
This is a mistake, as appears from the Reliquiae Divi Andreae, pub- 
lished by George Martine in 1683. It is not said, in the Reliquiae 
Divi Andreae, that Castle-Campbell was given to the Earl of Ar- 
gyle by the Bishop of St Andrews. It was Muckhartshire, which 
was a separate barony to the east of Dollar, that was so given, 



DOLLAR. 105 

and at that time it appears that Castle- Campbell belonged to the 
family of Argyle. The words are, " It is reported that Muck« 
bartshire was then (1491,) feued out by Shevez of St Andrews to 
the Earl of Argyle for siding with him; and I have heard that the 
first feu-charter thereof was granted at Dollar Castle, now Castle- 
Campbell, then and still a house belonging to Argyle.''* 

* lu the former Statistical Account it is said, *' we cannot discover how or when 
Castle-Campbell, with the adjoining lands, cftme into the possession of the Argyle fa- 
mily.'* There is certainly some difficulty in ascertaining that point. But, having 
got access to the charter deeds of the family, and having made a considerable research 
to get at the truth on the subject, we shall lay the result of our inquiries before the 
public. In the statute 1489, which we have given above, the Castle is described as 
belonging to Colin, Earl of Argyle. This Colin was the first Earl of Argyle, having 
been created an Earfby King James II. in 1457. We find that this Colin, first Earl 
of Argyle, married Isabella, said in Douglas's Peerage to be the eldest daughter, and 
co-heiress of jJohn, third Lord of Lorn and Innermeath. It is stated in Oou* 
glas*s Peerage, that this Lord Lorn made a destination by charter of his whole estate, 
to the heirs-male of his body, whom failing, to his brothers, Walter, Allan, David, 
«ind Robert. Walter, the eldest, became the fourth Lord Innermeath, as his brother 
Lord John lefl no male issue. It is stated by Douglas that this Lord Innermeath 
exchanged the lands of Lorn with the Earl of Argyle, for the lands of Baldoning, 
Invcrdoning, &c. in Perthshire, and that after that exchange he dropped the title of 
Lorn, which was then assumed by the Earl of Argyle. Now, although Walter, the 
elder brother, succeeded in virtue of his brother's will, to the principal part of the 
landed property of John, third Lord Lorn, we have reason to think that the lands of 
Dollar and Gloom must have belonged to this John — Lord Lorn and Innermeath, 
(who had lands in different parts of the country,) and that these lands descended to 
his daughters as heirs-portioners. Whether the lands of Dollar and Gloom had been 
part of the Lorn property, or part of the Innermeath property, we have not been 
able to ascertain ; but it is probable they belonged to Innermeath, for the Lorn pro- 
perty was afterwards added to Innermeath by a John Stewart, proprietor of Inner- 
meath, marrying the daughter of Krgadia, the old Celtic proprietor of Lorn, some- 
where about the year 1386. But, be that as it may, there are good grounds for sup- 
posing that the lands of Dollar and Gloom did not go along with the other property 
to Walter, the heir at law, but descended to his three nieces, daughters of Lord 
Lorn, as heirs-portioners. 

What these grounds are, will appear from what we are now to state. John, third 
Lord of Lorn and Innermeath, had no son, as may be inferred from his brother suc- 
ceeding him ; but he had three daughters, Isabell Stewart, married to Colin, first 
Karl of Argyle ; Margaret Stewart, married to Sir Colin Campbell of Glenurchie ; 
Marion Stewart, married to Arthur Campbell of Ottar. Now, in looking to the 
inventory of the Argyle title-deeds, which we have compared with the title-deeds 
themselves, we find first mentioned a sasine dated 9th April 1465, of all and haill 
*^ the third part of the lands of Dollar and Gloom in favour of Duncan Campbell, 
son of Sir Colin Campbell, Knight." Out Douglas (voce Hreadalbane) tells us, that 
the eldest son of Sir Colin Campbell and Margaret Stewart, daughter of Lord 
Lorn, was called Duncan ; and hence we are entitled to infer, that the Sir Colin 
Camobell mentioned in the sasine was the laird of Glenurchie, who married Mar- 
garet iStewart. 'i'he next sasine mentioned in the inventory of the Argyle title-deeds, 
and which is of the same date as the last mentioned, is in favour of Dame Isabell Stewart 
Countess of Argyle, who was the daughter of the said John, third Lord of I^orn and 
Innermeath, and married to Colin, first Earl of Argyle. The third s:i8ine in the Ar- 
gyle papers, of the same date with the other two, is in favour of Marion Stewart, 
sister to the said Countess. Now, supposing the lands of Dollar and Gloom to have 
belonged to John, third Lord of Lorn and Innermeath, and that they were not in- 
cluded in the entail in favour of his brothers, failing heirs of his own body, they must 
have descended to bis three daughters, each of whom would have a right to a third 
port pro indiviao till a division took place. But it may be asked, what proof have 
we, that each of these three parts came into the possession of the Argyle family ? As 



106 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

Castle Campbell, with its romaDtic scenery, has been so often 
described, that we can add nothing new on the subject. Its ma- 
jestic ruins are situated on a knoll or eminence-— occupying a nar- 
row glen of the Ochill hills. The view of the castle from the pub- 
lic road, as we pass through Dollar on our way either to Stirling or 
Kinross, is peculiarly striking : but it is impossible to form an ade- 
quate idea of the grandeur and variety of the scenery, without ad- 
vancing nearer to the castle. After leaving the old bridge in the 
village of Dollar, and advancing northward along the banks of the 
rivulet, which descends from the Castle — as we approach Camp- 
bell wood, (as the people here call it,) and which covers the whole of 
the ravine — through which the stream forces its way — the casdeis 
now more distinctly seen, and seems more elevated than it did 
when seen from the public road. It now appears perched on the 
top of a lofty knoll, or conical hill — embosomed in the surround- 
incr mountains. The acclivities on each side of the ravine are cover- 
ed with continuous woods, which gives the whole a truly pictu- 
resque appearance. Several attempts have been made to reach the 
castle, by tracing the bed of the stream upwards ; but they ha^ 
all proved unsuccessful. After great fatigue and risk, some have 
forced their way upwards to the place where the two streams, that 
surround the castle, make a junction; but beyond this, the over- 
hanging rocks in the bed of the stream, and which nearly meet at 
the top, form an insuperable barrier. But though the castle is 
inaccessible by the bottom of the nivine, it may be approached on 
foot, both on the east and west side of the wooded hollow. The 
road on the east side, through the village of Dollar, is the only 
approach for carriages, or rather carts. It is a steep and rugged 

to one of these tlirce parts, there is no difficulty. It was .ncquired by Cdl in, first 
Earl of Argyll', in right of his wife Isa!)ella, who was one of the daughters of the said 
John Lord Lorn and Innermeath; and we rather think the eldest daughter, from 
the circumstance of the castle being situated in thdt portion of the lands which fell 
to her share, as appears from what is said in a charter of confirmation by James IV. 
llie third of the lands which came into the possession of Duncan Campbell of Glen- 
iirchy, through his mother Mar;^aret Stewart, daughter of l^ord Lorn, &c., became 
part of Argyle lands., by a deed of renunciation on the part of the said Duncan Camp- 
bell, of all rights he had to the tliiid part of the lands of Dollar ; which renunciation 
he made in favour of Colin, first Earl of Argylc, of date 1481, as appears from the 
inventory of the Argyle title-deeds. We cannot find any deed conveying to Argyle 
the third portion, which belonged to Marion Stewart, wife of Campbell of Ottar ; 
but there can be no doubt that Argyle acquired this third part also, cither by disjio- 
sition or force ; for in a charter of confirmation by James 1 V. of a charter liy the 
IJishop of Dunkeld. it is expressly stated that the bishop gives to Archibald, Earl of 
Argyle, all and tiaill the lands of Campbell, aliax Dollar or Gloom. This charter of 
confirmation is dated 1 1th May 1497. The preceding remarks, we hope, will help 
to solve the question how and when Castle Campbell, with the lands of Dollar or 
Gloom, came into the possession of the family of Argyle. 



DOl.I.AR. 107 

ascent, and passes the castle on the east, and then winds round to 
a low bridge, which forms the entrance to the castle on the north, 
the only point where the prominence on which the castle is situ- 
ated, is connected with the surrounding mountains. The tourist 
on foot, instead of clambering up the whole of this rugged path, 
leaves it about half-way up, or less, and takes a footpath on the 
left, which leads down to the stream in the bottom of the valley, 
and, after crossing the rivulet, ascends by a narrow and difficult foot- 
path, which winds round the knoll on which the castle is situated—- 
gradually ascending, till it joins the carriage road at the north entry 
of the castle. The castle may be approached also on the west side, 
but there is no regular footpath. This last mentioned approach 
is peculiarly interesting on account of the diversiBed views which 
it gives of the old ruin and the wooded banks on the opposite side. 
After reaching the highest part of the bank on the west side — 
nearly opposite the castle, we descend to the bottom of the ravine 
below by a narrow winding footpath, at each turn of which, new 
views of the castle, and the surrounding scenery are presented. 
We then, by means of a wooden bridge, made of the trunks of two 
trees, and without any hand-rail, pass a considerable torrent, which 
comes down from the hills, and flows round the castle on the west 
side, and then joins the stream on the other side, immediately 
south of the castle. There are several very beautiful waterfalls 
on this mountain stream ; but they are so much hid by the woods, 
through which the torrent forces its way, that they seldom attract 
the attention of the traveller. After passing the wooden bridge, 
we have to climb a very steep pathway, before we reach the car- 
riage road, we formerly mentioned, which leads to the entrance 
at the back of the castle, where are the remains of the principal 
gateway looking to the north. It must have had a very strik- 
ing appearance, when complete. A little to the north of this en- 
trance, are seen a few ancient and noble sycamores, seemingly the 
remains of an aVenue, which add much to the picturesque effect 
of the ruin. 

The area around the castle is so narrow and conflned, that it is 
impossible to quit its walls, but for a few yards, without the risk 
of being hurled into the depths below. On the east side, the 
steep acclivity terminates close to the bottom of the walls, and ren- 
ders it impracticable to get round the ruin on that side* On the 
south side, there is a beautiful green area of considerable extent, 
which slopes gradually from the bottom of the ruin to the edge of 



108 CLACKMANNANSHIUC. 

the precipice in front of the castle. Near the south-western ex« 
tremity of this area, is seen the entrance to Kenop's Score, a fright- 
ful chasm in the rock, which we formerly noticed. Immediately 
adjoining this chasm, we find the remains of an old outwork now 
in ruins, which gives a highly picturesque effect to the scenery. 
Passing this outwork, and advancing a few steps towards^the brink 
of the precipice, we find a concealed half-formed footpath, which 
winds down the wooded front of the rocks, and leads to a projec- 
tion about twelve feet above the bed of the torrent, which is here 
seen forcing its way beneath shelving rocks, which now and then 
conceal it from the view of the spectator. This is certainly the 
most romantic part of the scenery of the castle, and will amply re- 
pay the labour of those who have sufficient nerves to undertake 
the descent ; for it is not without some degree of risk that the 
attempt is made — as one false step would infklliably precipitate the 
traveller into the abyss below ; and it is only by laying hold of 
shrubs and roots of trees, with which the path is strewed, that 
the descent and re-ascent can at all be effected. 

It has been matter of surpris^e to many, how a place like Cas- 
tle-Campbell, almost inaccessible, by its steep approach and rug- 
ged road, should have been chosen as the residence of a noble &• 
mily. But there can be no doubt that the family of Argyle fre- 
quently resided here, and indeed made it their favourite residence, 
till it was burnt by Montrose in 1644. That the family frequent- 
ly lived here, appears from the various feu-charters given to cer- 
tain inhabitants of Dollar, conveying to them portions of land, on 
the condition of their performing certain services to the family, 
when they resided in the castle.* One piece of land, for instance, 
was given to one person for supplying bread to the family, to an- 
other for furnishing butcher-meat, and oats for the horses ; 
to another for supplyinnr coals; to another for providing beer, 
&c. On the grounds given to the brewer of the family, 
there is a small eminence or knoll, called the brewer s knowe 
— which name it still retains. But independent of the evidence 
arising from the feu -charters, we know from general history, 
that the castle was frequently made the residence of the Ar- 
gyle family. About the year 1556, Archibald, the fourth Earl of 
Argyle, lived here. Knox, in his history, informs us that he vi- 

• In some of the charters, the vassals are taken' bound to carry the wine used in 
the castle from the Port of Alloa, and iu others, to furnish horses to bring their supe- 
rior and his family from Stirling. 



DOLLAR. 109 

sited the old Earl (as he calls him,) and preached for some days 
in his house of Castle- Campbell. The aged Earl seems to have 
received durable impressions from his instructions, and was, there- 
fore, anxious that Knox should remain with him for some time : 
but, having received letters from the English congregation at Ge- 
neva, stating that they had made choice of him as one of their 
pastors, and urging him to come and take the inspection of them, 
Knox had made up his mind to comply with their request and to 
leave Scotland. Among those who listened to his discourses in 
Castle- Campbell, was the laird of Grlenorchy, one of the ancestors 
of the present family of Breadalbane, who was much edified by 
what he heard from Knox, and, therefore, he joined Argyle in 
his endeavours to prevail upon him, to abandon the thought of go- 
ing to Geneva, and to remain in Scotland. But as the congregation 
at Geneva was a favourite flock — and as he regarded the invitation 
sent to him, a call in Providence to go there — he considered it his 
duty to obey the call : and, therefore, no entreaties could prevail 
upon him to remain longer. On parting with them, he said, " If 
God so blessed their small beginnings, that they continued in god- 
liness, whensover they pleased to command him, they would find 
him obedient ; but, once he must needs visit that little flock, which 
the wickedness of men had compelled him to leave." 

It is generally believed that Castle- Campbell was the place 
where the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper was first dispensed 
after the Reformation began.* This is extremely probable, for Knox, 
as we have already seen, preached there for several days, in the 
year 1556, and it is likely he would dispense the sacrament at the 
same time. Some go the length of pointing out the precise spot 
on the green sward, in front of the castle, where the ordinance was 
celebrated. But this is certainly going too far ; for field-preach- 
ing and dispensing ordinances in the open air, though common af- 
terwards, was then quite unknown. 

Modern Buildings, — There is a new parish church building this 
year (1841), upon a plan by Mr Tite, architect, London, which 
promises to be a very handsome structure. Its site is peculiarly 
well chosen, being a piece of rising ground immediately south of 
the present church, and gradually sloping to the south and west. 
The old church is but of recent date, having been built in the year 
1775; but, owing to bad materials and insufiicient workmanship, the 

* The sacrament of the Lord*8 supper was dispensed by Knox for the first time 
after the Reformation in the castle at ^ Andrews. 



no CLACRMANNANSIIIRB. 

walls and roof are in a state of decay ; and besides, it afforded only 
thehalf of accommodation in sittings, which the parish were legally 
entitled to. 

The principal manufacture in the parish is bleaching of linen. 
There are besides two collieries, which have an extensive sale; 
one of them properly speaking is in Muckhart parish, but the work- 
men all live in Dollar. Two tile-works have recently been set 
agoing. The largest of the two is situated a few yards beyond the 
eastern boundary of the parish, and may, therefore, be considered 
as belonging to Muckhart, but the workmen all reside in Dollar. 
There is besides a small woollen manufactory connected with the 
mills in Alva- It is used chiefly for carding and spinning of wool, 
and the yarn is sent to Alva to be made into blankets, shawls, and 
other fabrics of that "sort. 

III. — Population. 
The amount of the population, as appears from a survey taken 

(May 1841) is about 1500, which is nearly triple of the number 
in 1755. This great increase has been chiefly of late years, and 
owing principally to the erection of Macnab's school or Dollar 
Institution, which hath brought to Dollar a great number of mas- 
ters with their families, besides a number of boarders. Several 
families have come to reside in the parish, with a view to the edu- 
cation of their children. The increasing prosperity of the bleach- 
field, a new coal* work on the south of the Devon now in active 
operation, and the two new tile-works, have created a great demand 
for labourers, who, with their families, have lately settled in Dol- 
lar. Those who reside in the villages, or what are called the old 
and new towns of Dollar, with the mains, amount to 1058. The 
remaining population reside in country villas, and in detached 
houses, scattered over the parish. 

The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 36f- 

deaths for the same period^ \4^ 

marriages, - - 14^ 

Tile average number of persons under 15 years of age, 536 

between 15 and 30, a^ 

30 and 50, 380 

50 and 70, 202 

above 70, - 45 

No nobility reside in the parish. 

Of those who follow no profession, but have an independent fortune, 

the number is about - - - - . ]0 

Proprietors of land, of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, . 9 
The number of unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, upwards 

of 50 years of age, is - - - - - 22 

The number of unmarried women, above 45 years of age, is - 76 
The average number ot children in a family is - - 41 

The people in general are shrewd and intelligent, and sufficiently 



DOLLAR. Ill 

capable of managing their own affairs to the best advantage. The 
morality of the people is upon the whole praiseworthy, though 
the minutes of the kirk-session record too many aberrations, on 
the part of young people, from the rules of strict morality; and the 
scenes that sometimes occur at fairs, and other merry-makings, 
give much annoyance to the more orderly and well.-behaved portion 
of the community. Their religious character, compared with other 
parishes, is quite unexceptionable. 

IV. — Industry. 
AffricuUure, — The following is a statement of the amount in 

imperial acres of the lands in Dollar parish, — in a state of culti- 
vation, — also of the lands that have never been cultivated^ — and 
of the lauds under wood :— - 





Globe Insurance Company, 






Never cultivated, but in 




Arable and frr^^ss parks. 


pasture. 


Under wood. 


46L778 


1,990 988— in Ocbils 
Shcardalc. 


91.125 


227.742 


110.609 
Dollarbeg and VVell-hall,-.aark 


18.288 


350 


60 
Dollar Field, &c Haig. 


26.356 


246.561 


none 
Hiliroot— Moir 


59.275 


136.207 


380.876 
West Shear dale — Duncanson 


25.223 


110.983 


17.656 waste none except brushwood. 




Lawmuir — Erskine 




79.454 


none 
Lower Main8-..late Futt 


13.872 


40.357 


none 
Upper Mains— Izatt 


none 


25.223 


none 
Three small Heritors 


none 


17.024 


none 
Lower Mains — Lamb 


none 


46.663 


none 


none 



Toul 1741.992 2560.129 234.139 

There are about twenty acres of moss in easter Dollarbeg, which, 
by draining and burning, &c. might be brought into a state of cul- 
tivation ; there are also about forty acres of waste land in Shear- 
dale moor, which, by a similar process, might be converted into 
arable land : great improvements have with this view been car- 
rying on in that district, for two years past, by an active and spirit- 
ed tenant. There are also about fourteen acres in the lower grounds 
of wester Sheardale, which are, at present, in a marshy state, and 
covered with brushwood ; but we fear nothing can be done to im- 
prove it, as the ground lies low, and draining is rendered imprac- 
ticable by the Devon at every flood, closing the drains and for- 
cing back the water. 



112 CLACKMANNANSHIUE. 

There are no undivided commons in the parish. The trees 
usually planted are, the oak, elm, ash, beech, and plane or sycamore, 
the larch, Scotch fir, and the spruce. The hard-wooded kinds, 
with the spruce and larch as nurses, have been generally planted 
in the lower parts of the parish, and the larch and Scotch fir as 
timber trees, on the higher grounds. In the older plantations, the 
beech and the plane are found in considerable numbers ; hot tbe 
timber of these trees being now less valuable, they are not so much 
planted as formerly. The oak, ash, and elm, prevail in recent 
plantations. The woods on the estates of the principal proprietors 
have been regularly attended to in thinning and pruning, from the 
time of planting ; and generally present a healthy and luxuriant 
appearance. The few patches of trees found on the lands of tbe 
smaller proprietors, are usually left in a state of nature, and felled 
without distinction of seasons, whenever required for home use. 

The ash and gean or wild-cherry are found in abundance grow- 
ing in a native state, in the woods on the estates of Castle- Camp- 
bell and Harviestoun ; the birch, rowan» and bird-cherry, in Castle 
Campbell glen ; the alder, on the banks of Devon ; and the holly 
and hazel, in the copse-woods on the estates of Sheardale and 
Dollar-beg. 

Bent ofl4and8. — The average rent of arable land is about L.3 
per annum. The rent of some lands of excellent quality is so 
high as L. 5 : of inferior lands, where the soil is not good, and 
tbe exposure bad, about L.I. The annual rent of grazing an ox 
or cow on good pasture is about L. 4, 10s. A full-grown sheep 
may be pastured on the Ochills for the year at about 6s. or 7s. 
The black-faced breed of sheep is the most common. Theyare 
much improved by getting rams or young ewes from the south; 
this keeps them pure, and prevents them from becoming dwarf- 
ish. This also preserves the quality of the wool, for when sheep- 
farmers breed too long with their old stock, without a change, the 
wool becomes grey. The Leicester breed, or a cross between Lei- 
cester and black-faced, is also a good deal tried here, and found 
to do well. The cattle here seem to be the old or Scots breed 
crossed with the short-horn or Ayrshire breed. 

Wages. — The rate of wages for labourers in country work is from 
12s. to 15s. per week in summer, and from 10s. to 12s. in winter. 
'J' he wages of a farm -servant are from L. 14 to L. 1.5 per annum 
in money, with 6J bolls of oatmeal, L. 2, 12s. for what is called 
kitchen, five or six bolls of potatoes, a free house and small gnr- 



DOLLAR. 113 

den, and the privilege of driving his own coals. Women employ- 
ed in farm work get Id. per hour or 9d. per day. In harvest- 
time, when employed in reaping, the wages generally given are Is. 
6d. per day, with 4d. for dinner, and Is. with 4d. for dinner when 
gathering potatoes. A mason at present gets 18s. and some L. 1 
per week in summer and 17s. in winter; a carpenter 18s. in sum- 
mer and J 5s. in winter; a mason's labourer 12s. in summer and 
10s. in winter; slaters get the same wages as carpenters; black- 
smiths get 6s. to 7s. per week, with board ; bakers 10s. with board, 
tailors 7s. with board ; shoemakers are paid by the piece ; they 
get for men's shoes from 2s. 4d. to 2s. 6d., for women's from Is. 
lOd. to 28. Colliers are paid according to the quantity of coal 
they lay out, at the rate of 2s. 2d. or 2s. dd. per ton, furnishing 
for themselves picks, lamps, and oil. A good hand will gain about 
Us. 6d. per day, but they work only nine days in the fortnight. 
Workmen at the tile-work, when paid by the week, generally get 
12s. ; but those who work by the piece make 15s. or 16s. per 
week. The wages at the bleachiield for men are 8$. per week, 
and for women ds. 6d. 

Articles of Raw Produce. — The price of oatmeal varies accord- 
ing to the rate of the Edinburgh and Stirling markets. For se- 
veral months past, it has been selling at 17s. or 18s. per boll of 
140 lbs. avoirdupoise, and barley-meal at 14s. per boll. The 
price of potatoes depends upon the season being either favourable 
or unfavourable ; but for some years past, they have been selling 
at Is. per bushel or 6s. per boll. The usual price of carrots is 
Id. per lb. or Is. 4d. per stone of 16 lbs. Hay was selling last 
year at Is. per stone or rather higher; but this year, it cannot 
brinor that price with us, and, from the favourable prospect of the 
hay harvest this season, it is likely the price next year, (1842,) 
will be considerably reduced. Butcher-meat has been selling for 
many months past at 6d. per lb. of 16 oz. ; but the price has re- 
cently, (May 1841,) risen to 7d. per lb. A good hen may be 
bought for Is. 6d. or Is. 8d., and chickens Is. 4d. per pair. Eggs 
sell at 6d. to 8d. per dozen; butter at lid. or Is. per lb., and 
country cheese at d^d. and 4d. per lb. of 16 oz. Sweet milk sells 
at l^d. per chopin ; skim milk }d. ; butter milk, ^d. and cream 
at lOd., though some charge a little higher, under the plea that 
their milk is better. ' 

The Character of the Husbandry* — The system of a rotation of 
crops is universally followed. Supposing the land to be in grass^ 
there is taken first a crop of oats ; and if the land has been for se- 

CLACKMANNAN. II 



lU CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

vcral years in pasturage, a second crop of oats is taken ; tben it is 
laid down for potatoes or turnips, or both. After potatoes, it is 
sown with wheat or barley and grass -seeds, and the fourth year 
there is a crop of hay from the rye-grass seeds and clover, sown 
with the barley of the preceding year. If the grass seeds sown are 
perennial, the ground is sometimes allowed to remain in pasture 
for one, two, or three years, and then the same rotation is repeat- 
ed ; but if the tenant considers pasturing less proBtable than til- 
lage, and more especially if he has a short lease, he generally fol- 
lows the four years rotation above-mentioned, though there cao be 
no doubt that tearing up the ground so often exhausts the soil. 

I'he land in the parish has, for some years past, been greatly im- 
proved by liming and draining. The common duration of leas^ 
is fifteen or nineteen years — too short a period certainly for leaants 
venturing to lay out money in the improvement of the soil. But most 
of the proprietors who let their lands are all so eager to get high 
rents (for a reason to be mentioned immediately, ) that the tenants 
find great difficulty in paying their rents, and often congratulate 
themselves upon the shortness of their leases. The chief obsta- 
cle to improvement in the parish is the unfortunate circumstance, 
that by far the greatest part of the property has, for many years, 
been under trust, or in the market for sale. The great object of 
a landlord, in these cireumstances, is to increase the amount of bb 
rent-roll by every means in his power ; and this leads him to ask 
extravagant rents for his land, which are seldom paid, but which 
involve the tenant in ruin. Old pasture land is sometimes let 
for tillage for two or three years, and a great rent is thus obtained; 
but the soil is greatly deteriorated. The fences at the same time 
are often entirely neglected. Most of the farm-buildings are in a 
good condition. Such of the proprietors as farm their own lands, 
keep their fences in excellent order. 

Quarries and Mines. — There are two excellent stone quarries, 
which furnish well-coloured and durable materials for building. 
The chief mines are coal, which are worked to a great extent, and 
supply Strathearn and its neighbourhood with coals, which are not 
foimd anywhere to the north of Dollar. Copper mines were at- 
tempted to be worked in the Ochills connected with Dollar, but 
did not succeed. 

Produce. — The average annual amount of agricultural produce, 
as near as can be calculated, is aS follows. 

Oats. 30854 IwHs, at 19f. per boU, ... L. 2916 18 

Wheat, 1818 bolls, at L. 1.4s. per boU, - « - ±217 12 

Barley, 1799 bolK at 1^1, Is. per boll, - - - 18S9 9 6 

Cultivated \Aay, ^l.oC^O sioivw «\ V..^, VQs. ^er linndrcd stones, 2837 <> 



DOLLAR. 115 

Turnips, 204^ acres, at L. 12 per acre* - - - 2448 

Potatoes, 2044 acres, at L. 13 per acre, - - • 2672 19 

Land formerly in a state of cultivation, now laid down as permanent 

pasture, • - - - - - - 95 00 

Meadow hay, - - - - - - -9300 

Total, - L. 15,219 18 6 

llie above calculation has been made on the presumption, that 
the land is cultivated in a regular rotation of crop, which it gene- 
rally is. The fractional parts of acres, on the different estates, 
have not been taken into account, which, if done, would add some- 
thing to the yearly amount. It will be seen from the above table, 
that the oats, wheat, and barley are the principal grains cultivated. 
Beans and peas have been found not so productive, and are seldom 
sown. Bear was formerly in use, but has now given place to bar- 
ley. Bone dust begins to be in use for the culture of turnip, when 
the crop is usually eaten off with sheep, or if sold for that purpose, 
the value of an acre is from L. 2 to L. 3, according to the quality 
of the root. 

Manufactures. — The principal manufacture in the parish is 
bleaching. It was begun by the late Mr Haig in the year 1787, 
and since that period, the quantity of cloth bleached has bsen 
yearly increasing. The field for the first two years consisted only 
of four acres ; at present the cloth covers about 30 acres. The use 
of oxymuriatic acid in bleaching was early introduced here, and 
Mr Haig obtained a premium from the Board of Trustees, for his 
success in applying it. It is said, in the former Statistical Account, 
that cotton goods, to a great extent, are bleached at this field, but 
this is a mistake ; for the field, at least at present, is exclusively 
appropriated to the bleaching of linen goods. There are employ- 
ed at the bleachfield 31 men, 26 women, and 5 boys, in all 62 ; 
at the brick and tile-works, 14 men, I woman, and 4 boys and 
girls. The woollen mill employs 2 men, 4 boys and girls. The 
usual hours of labour are twelve, including the breakfast and din- 
ner hours. The work people seem all contented ; at least, we hear 
of no murmurings about the smallness of wages. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Towns, — The nearest market-town is Alloa, about seven 

miles distant from Dollar. A runner, paid by the General Post- 

Oifice, arrives daily from Alloa about one o'clock p. m., and, after 

going and returning from Muckhart, sets out again to Alloa, after 

an interval of nearly six hours. The turnpike-road from Kinross 

to Stirling passes through the pariali^ for about a mile and a quarter 

and the turnpike- road to DuDfemdine^fcrir about a mile and a-half. 

A public carriage or stage-dMUsb began, a few years ngo, to run 



1 16 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

from Perth to Glasgow by Dollar; but has been. given up for 
want of encouragement There is a wooden bridge over the De- 
von at the Rack-mill ; but in a very ruinous state, and often im- 
passable, which proves a great inconvenience to parishioners who 
live on the south side of the Devon, in going to church, and also 
to children going to school. 

Ecclesiastical State,— The parish church is situated about a tenth 
of a mile or less from the eastern boundary of the parish, but is 
very convenient for the great body of the population, who reside 
chiefly in the old and new villages of Dollar, which are in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood of the church. The old church was built 
in 1775. A new church is building at present, (1841.) The 
most important benefaction to the parish is Macnab's legacy, 
which has been fully noticed already. There are, besides, a few 
small donations to the poor, amounting to L. 319, and the interest 
of L. 31, left for the behoof of the schoolmaster. 

The old church afforded accommodation to about 300 sitters; 
the new church will accommodate above 600. There are no free 
sittings. The whole seats, with the exception of the minister's, 
schoolmaster's, and elders' seats, are divided among the heritors 
and feuars. The kirlc-«ession have, for several years, been in the 
habit of letting the communion table seats at a small annual rent, 
for the benefit of the poor, but of late it has amounted to almost 
nothing. The manse was built in 1795. It was repaired and a 
considerable addition made to it in 1817, and new offices were built 
in 1820. The glebe consists of four acres of good land. The stipend 
is in general below L. 150. The augmentation from the Exchequer 
amounts to L. 23, 6s. 8d. There is a Dissenting chapel connect- 
ed with the Associate Synod of Original Seceders. The minister's 
stipend is paid from seat-rents, and collections at the door of the 
chapel. The stipend promised is L. 90, but he has no bond for 
security of payment* There are no Episcopal or Catholic 
chapels in the parish. Several Episcopalians reside in the parish, 
and attend public worship regularly in the Established Church, ex- 
cept on the great festivals of their own church, when they gene- 
rally go to Alloa, where a new Episcopal chapel has been lately 
erected. There are 262 families who attend the Established 
Church, and 1306 persons of all ages, connected with the Esta- 
blished Church. Thirty-one families, consisting of 140 individuals, 
attend the meeting-house in the parish. Six families, consisting 
of 25 individuals, attend the meeting house in Muckhart. Two 
families of 10 persons go to Tillicoultry meeting-house. There 
are, besides, ouc ^^vcvAn oil Wx hiWi profess to be Methodists : one 



DOLLAR. 117 

consisting of eight connected with the Relief Synod ; and one 
family of six, who give out that they are Baptists. 

Divine service is generally well attended in the Established 
Church ; and we believe also in the meeting-house ; making allow- 
ance for the small number of Dissenters. 

llie average number of communicants in the Established Church 
is about 350. There are no societies for religious purposes es- 
tablished in the parish, except a ladies missionary society, lately 
formed. The average amount of collections yearly for the As- 
sembly's different schemes, including an annual public collection 
for the poor, may be about L. 15. 

Education, — The schools in the parish are three : 1^/, the pa- 
rochial school ; 2dj Macnab's school ; Sdy a girl's school. The 
branches of education taught in the parochial school are, reading, 
writing, and arithmetic None of the higher branches, — such as 
Latin and mathematics, — are taught : indeed, the parish school is 
almost superseded by Macnab's school. The parochial school- 
master's salary is L.25, 17s. 9^d : he receives besides, L. 3 as ses- 
sion-clerk ; and about L. 1, 6s. as interest on mortified money, 
which varies with the rate of interest His school fees, at an aver- 
age, amount annually to L. 11 or L. 12 ; — say L. 11. The fol- 
lowing branches of education are taught at Macnab's school or 
Dollar Institution, under separate masters, viz. 1. English and 
English grammar ; 2. writing and arithmetic ; 3. Latin, Greek, 
and oriental languages ; 4. modern languages ; 5. mathematics ; 
6. drawing ; 7. geography. There is also a numerous infant school 
in connection with this establishment. 

The amount of salaries of the masters in Macnab's school was, 
at one time, made partly dependent on the number of their pupils ; 
but, of late, the minimum of salary to each master has been fixed at 
L. 140 per annum, with a large house and garden. No fees are 
paid by the pupils attending Macnab's school to the master, but are 
paid quarterly to the treasurer of the institution. The fees former- 
ly amounted yearly toabout L.100; but, in consequence of their being 
lately lowered, they now average about L. 80 yearly. Boarders 
pay 10s. per annum for library and other school dues, and 5s. per 
quarter for each class they attend; consequently, if they attend three 
classes, the yearly expense will be L. 3, 2s. 6d. ; if four classes, 
the yearly expense will be L. 4. The children of residenters who 
have been three years in the parish, and are supposed to be in 
good circumstances, pay 2s. per.t|aartBr for library, &c and 5s. per 
quarter, for each class they atteiJd|eoilliqnMltly, if they attend three 
classes, the yearly expense #i|[^L.2, 19s. Gd. ; if four classes^l\^ft 



1 18 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

yearly expense will be L. 3, 17s. The children of arttsans or la- 
bourers who have beeo three years in the parish, pay 6d. per quar- 
ter for the library, &c, and 8d. per quarter for each class they attend; 
consequently, if they attend three classes, the annual expense nill 
be 8s. 9d. per annum ; if four classes, it will be lis. Id. per aD- 
num. 

The above statement ofoxpense of education at Macnab's school 
is made upon the supposition, that one pupil only out of each family 
attend ; but when more than one of a family enter, the first only 
pays at the rate now stated ; but if more than one, all the rest are 
admitted at half-price. The fees for teaching in the parochial 
school are, for English 86. 9d. per annum ; for English with writ^ 
ing, 10s. 6d. per annum ; for English, writing, and antbmetic, 
14s. per annum. In the girl's school, English, writing, and sew- 
ing are taught, and the fees are 2d. per week, or 2s. per quarter. 

Library, — There is a very extensive and well-chosen collection 
of books belonging to Macnab's school or Dollar Institution, to 
which the parishioners have access. 

Friendly Society. — A Friendly Society was instituted herein the 
year 1829, and is doing well. Its object is to give a weekly al- 
lowance to sick members, and such as are not able to work. Its 
funds are regularly on the increase ; at present, they amount to 
L. 220. Besides the weekly aliment to the sick, small pensions 
are given to the more destitute widows of deceased members. 

There is no savings bank in the parish ; and the nearest lo 
Dollar is in the parish of Tillicoultry, about three miles distant, 
and was established about the year 1835. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
on the poor's roll, and who receive regular parochial aid, has for 
some years past been about 12 or 13. Of late, the number has been ou 
the increase, amounting occasionally to 19 and 20. Various causes 
may be assigned for this increase of pauperism ; among others, we 
may notice Macnab's legacy, which has been the means of indu- 
cing a number of worthless, at least not very respectable, charac- 
ters from other parishes to settle in Dollar. In corroboration of 
this opinion, we may mention that the number of illegitimate chil- 
dren has, of late years, considerably increased. During the three 
years preceding 1841, there have been no less than 12 illegitimate 
children born in the parish. 

The average monthly allowance to those who have got ujwn 
the poor's roll is 5s. or 6s. Besides those upon the poor's roll, 
who get regulariy their monthly allowance, there are others 
not ou t\\e ^oot'^ toW, \<\\q to^iem^ *«iall sums to help them 



DOLLAR. l\(J 

in cases of sickness and want of work. In addition to the money 
distributed to the poor from the kirk-session funds, a collection is 
made annually at the church-door, and a subscription paper is 
handed round the parish, to obtain a fund for the supply of coals, 
&c. for the poor in general, during the severity of winter. The 
money raised in this way is very considerable, and does great credit 
to the more wealthy of the parish. The collections at the church- 
door have, for some years past, amounted to something more than 
L.50. There was paid into the poor's box last year, after de- 
ducting the session-clerks dues, L.2, lOs. for proclamations of mar- 
riage, L. 1, 18s. 6d. for the use of the mortcloth, and U 1, 7s. for 
lairs or ground purchased for burying. To the above must be 
added the interest of L.319, the amount of several bequests to 
the poor, and a small sum derived from the letting of the commu- 
nion seats. Both heritors and kirk-session are very averse to have 
recourse to an assessment ; but, if the number of the poor increase 
as rapidly as it has done of late years, it will be impossible much 
longer to stave off an assessment. 

Fairs. — There are four fairs, according to the Almanacks, 
held in Dollar, but only two of them deserve to be noticed, the 
fairs in May and October. In both of these fairs, cattle are chiefly 
sold ; horses or sheep are seldom seen in these markets. At the 
May fair, the chief transaction is the sale of cattle that have been 
kept during the winter on straw and a few turnips. They are 
bought up by butchers and others, who have grass parks to stock 
during the summer. At the October fair, young cattle chiefly are 
sold as winterers to farmers and others, who require manure, and 
are resold at the May market. 

Inns. — There is only one inn in the parish ; but about five or six 
alehouses. There are, besides, four or five houses where spirits and 
malt liquors are sold over the counter. The number of alehouses 
and retail-shops for spirits, has of late dimiitished, but without the 
effect of increasing temperance. Clubs are now formed for drink- 
ing in houses. We are sorry to be obliged to add, that whisky 
is often sold in retail-shops on Sabbath. One of the greatest nui- 
sances arising from whisky- drinking, is the licensing of the house 
at the toll-bar. 

Fuel — Coal is universally used as fuel, of which there is an abun- 
dant supply, as two extensive collieries are wrought in the parish, 
or in the immediate neighbourhood. The price of coal at the 
coal-hill or fold, is only 5s. per ton, and the distance to the vil- 
lage is so inconsiderable, that the driving makes only a trifling 
addition to the price. 



lis 



Cr.ACKMANNAN8HIBE. 






A' -'■ 



yearly expense will be L. S, 17s. The chil^ 
bourers who have been three yeare in thej / 
ter for the library, &c^and 8d.per quartf > C 
consequently, if they attend three ^ ^ .^ .:. 
be 8s. 9d. per annum ; if fonr oFC k k r: 
num. 

The above statement cfeir^ 

is made upon the suppoHlio!; 
attend; but wbea iqoni.'';'/j 
pays at the rate DQwy. / >''. 
admitted at haltpiir / ff ' 
school are^ for ViffK ' 
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PARISH OF CLACKMANNAN. 

PRESBYTERY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING. 

THE REV. PETER BALFOUR, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natcral History. 

Name. — It has been plausibly stated by the author* of the 
former Statistical Account of this parish, ^^ that Clackmannan 
signifies the kirk town, or village of Annan, from a well known 
Gaelic word, Annand^ the original name of the family of Annan- 
dale; that in the beginning of the twelfth century, one of the 
first of the Bruces who settled in Scotland, married Agnes Annand, 
heir to the lordship of Annandale ; and that, soon after that period, 
the Bruces were in possession of Clackmannan.'' 

Boundaries^ 4*c. — This parish is bounded on the south by the 
river Forth, and on the north by the river Devon. Were a per- 
son to leave the margin of the Forth at the south-east extremity 
of the parish, and to move along its boundary, until he reached 
the Forth at its south-west extremity, he would pass in succession 
the following parishes : — Tulliallan, Saline, Fossa way, Dollar, 
Tillicoultry, Alva, and Alloa. Although the form of the parish 
of Clackmannan be very irregular, it seems to present upon the 
whole a slight resemblance to that of a truncated cone. Along 
the edge of the Forth, it does not extend above two miles and a 
half; but on advancing inland, or towards the north, it so expands 
that a straight line drawn from the north-west to the north-east 
extremity of the parish, would be at least six miles in length. 

Topographical Appearances^ ^c, — In proceeding from the Forth 
to the Devon, the country presents to the eye of the tourist a varied 
and undulating surface, and to the observation of the agriculturist, 
a very considerable diversity of soil. In going northward from 
the Forth, the country is almost level for the space of about one 
mile and a-half. This part of the parish forms a portion of the 
** carse of Clackmannan." On leaving the carse, and entering on 
the *^ dryfield" district, there occurs the commencement of a range 

* The late Kcv. Dr Robert M(K>dic. 



1212 CLACKMANNANSIHUE. 

of pretty high ground. After crossing this somewhat elevated 
track, we reach the valley along which the ^* Black Devon'' runs. 
Immediately to the north of this stream, the elevation of the 
land begins again to increase, and it continues to rise, sometimes 
with a gentle and sometimes with a steep acclivity, for the space 
of more than a mile. On reaching the summit of this compara- 
tively high ground, the beautiful and extensive district, through 
which ^' the clear-winding Devon" flows, spreads itself out to the 
view. And we are then conducted, by a somewhat steep descent, 
to the margin of that river, by which on the north the parish of 
Clackmannan is bounded. 

Where this parish is situated, the rivers Forth and Devon are 
almost parallel to one another ; but they flow in opposite directions, 
and the distance between them is more than four miles. Although 
most of the intermediate country be under cultivation, there 
occur some fine woodland scenery, and likewise two very pretty 
lakes. To the youth of the surrounding country and neighbour- 
ing villages, one of the lakes is, on the evenings of summer, an 
object of peculiar attraction, not on account of its romantic ap- 
pearance and secluded situation, but because it abounds with percb, 
and contains very eligible places for bathing. 

The only rivers connected with this parish are the Devon, the 
Black Devon, and the Forth. The source of the Devon is on 
the northern declivity of the Ochil hills ; and, after running ten 
or eleven miles in an easterly direction, it is forced by the rela- 
tive position of the hills and valleys to make a turn towards the 
west, at a place called ** the Crook of Devon." After pursuing 
a westerly course, through a beautiful and romantic countrvj for 
twelve or thirteen miles, it pours its waters into the Forth, at a 
point nearly straight south from the locality of its source. 

The Black Devon has its origin in the high and hilly country, of 
which the western division of the parish of Saline is composed, 
and, after pursuing a somewhat devious, but upon the whole 
westerly course, it makes a sort of semicircular sweep round the 
western base of the hill on which the tower and town of Clack- 
mannan are situated. It subsequently runs in a south-easterly di- 
rection, and unites with the Forth about two miles from Clack- 
mannan. 

Opposite to the parish, the river Forth is not now, even at spring- 
tides, much more than a mile in breadth. A great contraction 
and deepening of the river have been occasioned by the very ex- 



CLACKMANNAN* 123 

tensive embankments, which have been, from time to time, erect- 
ed along its margin. Along the north side of the river, for ex- 
ample, embankments extend from a point, a few miles below Stir- 
ling, to a considerable distance below Kincardine. These em- 
bankments must be at least fifteen or sixteen miles in length. As 
to the average breadth of the rich alluvial soil which has been 
thereby reclaimed along the whole line of country, to which allusion 
has been made, the writer cannot hazard an opinion. But in the 
carse of Clackmannan, it is fully a mile in breadth. 

The depth of the Forth, opposite to the parish, being now very 
considerable, and there being a harbour at Kennetpans, and pretty 
extensive piers at the mouth of the Black Devon, the utmost fa- 
cilities are enjoyed by the inhabitants of the southern division of 
the parish, as to the shipping of agricultural produce, coal, &c. 
A peculiarity connected with the tides in the river Forth is thus 
described in the former Statistical Account of the parish of Clack- 
mannan : ^* The tides in the river Forth, for several miles, both 
above and below Clackmannan, exhibit a phenomenon not to be 
found, (it is said) in any other part of the globe. This is what 
the sailors call a ** leaky tide," which happens always in good 
weather during the neap-tides; and sometimes also during the 
spring-tides, if the weather be uncommonly fine. When the water 
has flowed for three hours, it then runs back for about an hour 
and a-half, nearly as far as when it began to flow. It returns im- 
mediately, and flows during another hour and a-half to the same 
heighth it was at before : and this change takes place both in the 
flood and ebb tides. So that there are actually double the num- 
ber of tides in this river that are to be found anywhere else. In 
very boisterous weather, however, these leaky tides are by no 
means regular — the water only swells and gorges, without any per- 
ceptible current, as if the two tides were acting against each other." 

CoaL^ — The coal-field in the parish of Clackmannan contains 
eleven workable seams of coal, all of which have been wrought to a 
greater or less extent by the different collieries. They are of va- 
rious thickness, viz. 

1. 2 feet cubical coal. 

2. 3 do. splint and cubical. 

3. 3 do. cherry coal. 

4. 54 do. splint called upper five-feet coal. 

5. 4 do. cherry and splint, with a stone in the middle. 

* This part of the article was furnished to the Editor l>y Mr James Wilson, 
manager of the Clackmannan Coal Works. 



124 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

6. 7 do. 4 fiset splint, and 3 feet cherry, called nine-fret coal, with bands of imo. 
stone on top. 

7. 2 feet splint and cherry, with 9 inches of black baud ironstone on tbc top. 

& 3 feet cherry. 

9. 4 do. cherry coal, also called under»five«feet. 

10. 34 do. splint coal. 

11. 4 do. splint ond cherry, called Coalsnaugfaton BDuo eoaL 

The above seams are contained in a space of 1 10 fathoms, 
the under seam of four feet being 110 fathoms below the two feet. 
The coals are separated from each other by strata of various 
thickness, composed chiefly of sandstone, slaty sandstone, bitu- 
minous and argillaceous shale, fire or indurated clay, and beds of 
silicious and argillaceous ironstone. 

The principal collieries in the parish are the Clackmannan 
colliery, the Devon colliery, Kennet and Gurtary colliery. The 
Alloa Coal Company, although their works are not situated in 
the parish, have eztejided their underground operations consider- 
ably into it 

The seams of coal that are chiefly worked, are the upper 6ve*feet, 
the nine-feet, the under-five-feet or cherry, and the three-feet and 
a-half or splint coal. These are all of the best quality, and most ex- 
tensive ; the others are inferior, except the upper two-feet seam, 
which is excellent, but has only been found on the northern part of 
the parish, and worked to a small extent by the Devon Iron Com- 
pany. The lower seam is not a bad furnace-coal, but will not 
answer for house use, and has been very little worked here. The 
upper five and nine-feet coals are only worked at present by the 
Devon Iron Company, and the produce is mostly used for melt- 
ing iron. The under five-feet is worked by the Alloa Coal 
Company, and the cherry and splint by the Clackmannan Coal 
Company. The splint is also worked at Kennet colliery. 

C/oal has been worked here for upwards of 200 years, and to 
a great extent. The wastes in many of the seams extend over 
several hundred acres ; yet the greater part of the coal remains to 
be worked, and would last, at the present rate of working, for more 
than 200 years. 

The quantity of coals put out daily by the above works ave- 
rages about 500 tons, 200 tons of which are consumed in the 
parish, mostly at Devon Iron-works for melting iron ; the rest is 
shipped to various parts of Scotland. A considerable quantity 
is albO shipped to the continent yearly The value of each ton 
is about 5s., making the value of the daily produce L. 125. Up- 



CLACKMANNAN. 125 

wards of 500 individuals are employed in working, transporting, 
and shipping the above quantity of coals. 

The nine*ieet seam of coal contains three bands of ironstone 
immediately above; which has been worked by the Devon and 
Carron Iron Companies. 

The two-feet or M^Neish coal is worked extensively by the 
Devon Iron Company at present, chiefly for the seam of black 
band ironstone lying on its roof, which has only been lately dis- 
covered here, and is of very limited extent, existing only in the 
neighbourhood and under the town of Clackmannan. Besides 
these, there are several seams of argillaceous ironstone which are 
worked by the Devon Iron Company. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land'Otoners, — The chief land-owners are, the Earl of Mans- 

6eld, to whom the estate of Sauchie, which forms the north-west 
division of the parish, belongs ; the Earl of Zetland, who is pro- 
prietor of the estate, &c. of Clackmannan ; the Earl of Mar, 
whose property in the parish is extensive and valuable ; the Right 
Honourable Lord Abercromby, proprietor of the estate of Bruce- 
field, and eldest son of the late Sir Ralph Abercromby, which 
distinguished officer and most exemplary excellent man was con- 
nected with the parish ; Robert Bruce Esq. of Kennet, the worthy 
and influential representative of a long line of useful, honourable 
men; and James Erskine, Esq. of Aberdona, grandson of the 
late Lord Alva. 

Parochial Registers. — The records of the kirk- session com- 
mence in the year 159«3, and, being pretty entire from that pe- 
riod, are of course somewhat voluminous. 

*^ Clackmannan was for many generations the seat of the chief 
of the Bruces in Scotland. It is not certain, however, at what 
precise period John de Bruce, third son of Robert, one of the 
Earls of Annandale, became proprietor of it. King David II. gave 
it to his kinsman, Robert Bruce, the first laird of Clackmannan. 
( Dilecto consanguineo, saith the charter, dated at Perth the 9th 
of December, A. regni 39,) which must have been a very short 
time only before his death. It is probable, indeed, that King 
David resided at Clackmannan, at least during the first part of his 
reign, since we find that, in the year 13**30, his chamberlain, Regi- 
nald More, settled his public accounts there.''* 

Antiquities. — " The old tower, which still remains, is said to have 

* StatUtlcal Account l)y the late Rev. Dr Moodie. 



1 26 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

been built by King Robert Bruce. From the styleof the building 
indeed (for there is no date u|)on it,) it appears to have been erect- 
ed about this time ; and from several names of places, we may 
conclude that it actually was the residence of some of the kings--- 
as the following names seem to indicate '* King's Seat HiU," 
** King's Meadow Park/' and others of a similar nature, in the 
vicinity of the tower.* The greatest height of this tower is 79 feet 
It contains a variety of apartments, and has been surrounded by a 
moat, with a draw-bridge. Adjoining the tower stood the old man<» 
sion, the residence of the family, till the direct line became extinct" 
To the top of the tower, the tourist may ascend by a spiral stair. 
In going round its summit, the views vary at every step, and, whe- 
ther contemplated separately or in conjunction, are truly grand. 
There is another old tower situated on the banks of the Devon, 
belonging to the Earl of Mansfield. This tower and the estate of 
Sauchie, with which it is connected, were long in the possession of 
the family of Lord Cathcart The Sauchie tower is still more en- 
tire than that of Clackmannan. There was also one of the same kind - 
at a place called Hart Shaw, which belonged originally to the 
Stewarts of Rosyth. It was probably the hunting-seat -of that 
family, as the name appears to denote. 

Modem Buildings. — The present parish church was erected about 
twenty-four years since. It is a handsome structure, with a tower 
of considerable height, and, occupying as it does, an elevated and 
commanding pohilion, is seen from a great distance ; it contains 
1250 sittings. An extension church is being erected in the north- 
west division of the parish ; it will contain 620 sittings. Thesite^ 
of ii is an exceedingly eligible one, being perfectly centrical in re- 
ference to the district for whose population it is intended, and al- 
so adjacent to fine woodland scenery, whose general aspect will be 
rendered more interestinor bv the handsome tower of the new 
church. At the cross in the town of Clackmannan, there remains 
a gable and tower, which were formerly connected with the Coun- 
ty Hall, prison, &c. The present County Hall, which is of mo- 
dern erection, is situated immediately to the north of the town. 

There are several mansion-houses in the parish. On the es- 
tate of Sauchie, in the north-west division of the parish, the vene- 
rable mansion of Schaw Park, one of the seats of the Earl of 
Mansfield, is situated. It is an old and very large building, and 

• See accounts of the Cha-nberlain of Scotland in the year 13*29, 183t\ and 1331, 
from the originals in the Exchequer, published by Mr John Davidsi^n in 1771. 



CLACKMANNAN, 127 

some of the apartments are spacious and elegant ; but the exter- 
nal appearance of the mansion-house, and of the buildings connect- 
ed with it, as well as the general aspect of the grounds, impress 
deeply on the mind of the spectator the idea of decaved grandeur. 
The mansion-house of Kennet is delightfully situated on the ris- 
ing ground which overlooks the basin of the Forth, and ia about a 
mile distant from the river. Its external appearance, although 
handsome, is not fitted to convey an adequate impression of the 
internal elegance by which it is characterized. The existing pro- 
prietor and his excellent lady being in general resident, Kennet 
House is the scene of much hospitality to the rich, and of the most 
liberal charity to the poor. 

The reverend and venerable Thomas Boston of Ettrick, 
whose memory and writings are embalmed in the hearts of so 
many of the Scottish people, did, in his youth, officiate for 
a time at Kennet, in the capacity of tutor. Under the sha- 
dow of a particular pear tree in the retired orchard, he was in 
the habit of engaging in those exercises, and of enjoying that 
communion by which he might be fitted and prepared for working 
that work which his Heavenly Father might give him to do. By 
those individuals <ibout the place, who sympathised with the spirit 
which animated Boston, the pear tree was long viewed with a pe- 
culiar interest. When, at lengthy the symptoms of decay and disso- 
lution became strikingly apparent, the present proprietor resolved 
to cause a chest to be made of the timber of its root, that he might 
present it with a suitable inscription to the Presbytery of Stirling, 
as an appropriate repository for their records. But, on examina- 
tion, the whole was found to be in such a state of decay that the 
design could not be executed. The mansion-house of Aberdona 
is about four miles and ahalf north-east from Clackmannan. Its 
position is retired and interesting. In travelling towards it from 
the south, one passes through a country whose surface is undulat- 
ing and varied ; and there is a very pleasing intermixture of cul- 
tivated fields with sylvan scenery. Straight east from Clackman- 
nan about three miles, the mansion-house of Brucefield is situat- 
ed. There are about the place many fine old trees, and the plan- 
tations are very extensive. But the house and grounds and gar- 
dens appear to have been long neglected. About two miles from 
Clackmannan, and near to the margin of the Forth, stands the 
mansion-house of Kennetpans, belonging to John Stem, Esq. Im- 
mediately in front and towards the west and south-west, there is a 



12.H CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

pretty extensive and beautifully level lawn. This lawn and the 
ground adjacent to it are bounded on the south by a strong per- 
pendicular sea-wall, whose summit is on a level with the ground 
which it protects. From the lawn and house, one can view with 
the utmost distinctness, the miscellaneous assemblage of individuals, 
who are, in the course of the fine summer days, borne along 
by the steamers between Granton and Stirling. The only other 
mansion-house which I shall mention is that of Kilbagie, Robert 
Stein, Esq. It is about two miles south-east from Clackmannan, 
and one mile from the river. 

The Devon Iron- Works are in the parish of Clackmannan. 
Thev are situated beside the river Devon, about four miles from 
Clackmannan, and three from Alloa. From these works there is 
one railroad which extends to Clackmannan-pow, at the mouth of 
the Black or South Devon. The length of this railroad is about 
six miles. There is another railroad from the neighbourhood of 
the works to the harbour of Alloa. Its length is about three 
miles. The latter is under the control of the Alloa Coal Com- 
pany ; but, by an arrangement between the two companies, the 
Devon Iron Company also enjoy the use of it. The ironstone re- 
quired is obtained ia the neighbourhood of the works, and also 
from the estate of Clackmannan, and likewise from a particular lo- 
cality along the margin of the Devon, about five miles east from 
the works. The intermixture of different kinds of ironstone is 
thought to improve the quality, and of course to enhance the value, 
of the pig-iron produced. The limestone employed is brought 
from the neighbourhood of South Qucensferry by the Forth, and 
the railways which have been mentioned. The coal used is ob- 
tained beside the works, and is exceedingly well adapted to the 
purpose to which it is applied. There are three furnaces in ope- 
ration, and they now make, on an average, about 6000 tons of 
pig-iron annually. There being an extensive foundry connected 
with the iron-work?, the Company convert a considerable propor- 
tion of their pig-iron into cast-iron goods. 

There are five collieries and a portion of a sixth in the parish 
of Clackmannan ; the Clackmannan, the Devon, a portion of the 
Alloa, the Kennet, the Aberdona, and the Brucefield collieries. 

Distilleries, — There are in the parish two distilleries, — Kilbagie 
and Clackmannan. The former is a work of lonff standinof and 
of great extent. There is a space of nearly seven acres covered 
by the various buildings, &c. ; and the whole of said space is en- 



CLACKMANNAN. 129 

closed by a very high wall. There are byres for the feeding of 
700 cattle ; and about 850 acres of land have been cultivated in 
connection with the distillery. The business of distilling has been 
here carried on for the London market. The Clackmannan dis- 
tillery, which is adjacent to the town, is a work of much less ex- 
tent. Whisky has been' here made for the home or Scotch mar- 
ket. 

There is also a very extensive brick and tile work in the pa- 
rish; and there are three saw-mills driven by the water of the 
Black or South Devon. 

III. — Population. 



The population in 1755, 


• 


1913 


1791, 


• 


2528 


1831, 


• 


4266 


1841, 


• 


5159 



The increase which has taken place in the population of the 
parish of Clackmannan is to be ascribed chiefly to the great exten- 
sion of mining operations, particularly in that department of min- 
ing which relates to the working of coal. 

About four-fifths of the population reside in the town of Clack- 
mannan, and in villages, and in the rows and squares of houses 
adjacent to them. 

There are two or three families of independent fortune resident 
in the parish. There are six proprietors of land of the yearly 
value of L. 50 and upwards. There are about 1200 families in 
the parish, and the average number of children in each family 
is five. The people are not characterized by any distinctive pe- 
culiarity as to strength, size, complexion, or any other personal 
qualities. There are three insane, three fatuous, three blind, and 
two deaf and dumb persons connected with the parish. 

IV. — Industry. 

A decided majority of the population derive a subsistence from 
the different collieries in the parish, and more than three-fourths 
of the inhabitants are connected with them and with the other 
works which have been mentioned. There is also a considerable 
part of the population employed in agriculture, several act in the 
capacity of carters, shopkeepers, and public-house keepers ; and 
some are engaged in the weaving of woollen fabrics for the manu- 
facturers of Alva and Tillicoultry. During a considerable part of 
the year, some of the women in the parish continue to sew for the 
Glasgow manufacturers, but the earnings from this source aro 
now most lamentably small. Most of the females to which the 

CLACKMANNAN. I 



I '>0 CLACKMANNANSUIRE. 

writer has been referring, derive the greater part of their annual 
subsistence from field-labour, the preparing of bark, &e. 

Agriculture. — There are about 5000 Scotch* acres in the parish, 
which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage. There are 
about 400 acres which have never been cultivated, and which re- 
main constantly waste or in pasture. Of these, very few are 
susceptible of being cultivated with' advantage. There is no Ijuid 
in the parish in a state of undivided common. About 1600 
acres of land are covered by plantations. There is a very consi- 
derable variety of trees, but the prevailing kinds are, Scotch 6r, 
larch, spruce, and oaL On the estates of the Earls of Zetland 
and Mansfield, in particular, the management, as to yearly thin- 
ning, periodical felling, pruning, and the like, seems to be very 
judicious and successful. 

As to the average rent of arable land, per acre, in the parish, 
the writer deems it proper to separate the land into three distinct 
divisions: Ist^ carse land, (893 acres) ; 2<f, good dry field, (2137 
acres) ; and 3rf, inferior dryfield, (1970 acres.) The rent of the 
first of these three descriptions of land may be said to average 
L.3, Ss. per acre; that of the second, L. 1, 10s.; and that of 
the third, 15s. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L.S, 
10s. per ox or cow grazed for the season. As to farm-servants, 
the average rate is about L. 12, 12s. a-year of money wages, and 
6 J bolls of oatmeal, and 1 Scotch pint of milk, per diem. Coun- 
try labourers are commonly paid at the rate of 10s. a week in 
summer, and 9s. in winter. 

In Clackmannanshire, the number of public works, and the 
amount of the population, being great in proportion to the superfi- 
cial extent of the county, all kinds of agricultural produce sell 
comparatively high. This general remark applies particularly to 
the price of barley. Owing to the number of breweries about Al- 
loa, and distilleries in the county, there is a very large annual 
importation of barley from other parts of the united kingdom. 
Hence the price received for this kind of grain, grown in the 
county, is in general equal to the amount, both of the price and 
of the expense of transportation, &c. of the barley which is im- 
ported. 

As to the kinds of sheep and cattle, it may be mentioned that 
it is only among the Ochil hills, or in their immediate vicinity, that 
much attention is. paid, in this district, to the breeding and main- 
tenance of sheep ; and that the preference seems to be oiven 



CLACKMANNAN. 131 

either to the pure black-faced, or to a cross between them and the 
Leicester. In regard to cattle, great attention and much rivalry 
have been shown as*to the improvement of the breeds. Some lead- 
ing public-spirited gentlemen connected with the county have been 
long in the habit of rearing and exhibiting the short-horned, or 
Teeswater breed ; and the success which has crowned their exer- 
tions, both at local exhibitions, and at the Highland Society's 
shows, evinces the high degree of superiority to which they have 
attained. Among the Clackmannanshire cows, in general, the 
characteristics which distinguish the Ayrshire and short-horned 
breeds seem to predominate, and as milkers, they are accordingly 
very superior. The cows which the writer has had, from time 
to time, may be regarded as average specimens of the prevailing 
kinds ; and he understands that they have, in common, given dur- 
ing the summer months, at the rate of from ten to twelve Scotch 
pints of milk each per diem. 

The Clackmannanshire Agricultural Society is a very flourish- 
ing institution, and, in regard to all departments of agriculture, 
has been productive of the most beneficial effects. By the meet- 
ings of the society, all the landed proprietors who are resident, 
and the various farmers, &c. throughout the county, are periodi- 
cally brought together. On such occasions, the reciprocal com- 
munication of rural intelligence, the cultivation of friendly inter- 
course, and the reception and announcement of the most cheering 
encouragement, and the most animating rewards, have promoted 
in the most direct and influential manner every kind of agricultu- 
ral improvement Although the soil along the surface in the. pa- 
rish of Clackmannan exhibits considerable diversity of character, 
yet the subsoil is found to possess almost invariably the same cha- 
racter — that of hard cold till. Hence the applicableness of tho- 
rough or furrow-draining to all the different districts of which, the 
parish is composed. Within the last few years, there has been ac- 
cordingly an immense deal done in this particular department. The 
agriculturist, Thomas Ritchie, Esq. for example, who has gained 
the two last seasons the Clackmannanshire Society's highest prize, 
on account of draining, had, in the course of the two years, complet- 
ed drains with drain-tile, on a farm in this parish «eventy-three 
miles in length. Leases are commonly granted for the period of 
nineteen years. In some instances, money rents are paid ; but in 
a great*majority of cases, specific quantities of grain are stipulated 
for, convertible into money at the highest fiar prices of the county. 



132 CLACKMANNANSHIRE, 

As to the state of farm-buildings, &c. in the parish, a faronr- 
able report must be giren. Some of the farm-houses are of a 
most superior description. 

As to quarries, there is one of considerable extent about half-a 
mile south-west from Clackmannan, which belongs to the Earl of 
Zetland. The stone which it produces is a light-coloured, hard, 
and durable sandstone. There are also one or two quarries in the 
neighbourhood of the Black or South Devon. But, both as to 
appearance and durability, the stones which they produce are very 
inferior. On the Earl of Mansfield's estate of Sauchie, there are 
different quarries. They do not, however, exhibit any difference 
as to geological phenomena. The stoQe extracted from them is 
a reddish-coloured sandstone. When taken from the quarry, it 
is comparatively soft, and is very easily moulded into any form ; 
but by exposure to the weather, it acquires additional hardness, 
and ultimately proves exceedingly durable. 

Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in 
the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained : 

Estimated value of gnun of all kinds, whether cultivated lor food of 

man or the domestic animals, . . * L». 15,340 

Estimated value of potatoes and turnips, . . 6,500 

l}o. of hay, . ' . . • , . 4,860 

Do. of pasture, . ... 9,000 
Do. of the annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, 

plantations, and copse, . • . 1,100 

Do. of eool, . . . . . a6,000 

Do. of ironstone, , ... 8,000 

"Do, of quarries, . . . . 300 



L. 75,100 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
The only town in the parish is that of Clackmannan. It is still 
the county town, but the courts of law, &c. are held in Alloa. In 
the town of Clackmannan, and in the rows and squares of houses 
in its immediate vicinity, there is a population of 1600. In the 
course of the year, there are two markets held, but there is not 
now much business transacted in them. In Clackmannan, there are 
bakers, butchers, and a superabundance of shopkeepers ; but the 
town of Alloa being only two miles distant, and the shops, &c. there 
being very superior, a very considerable proportion of the commo- 
dities required by the inhabitants of Clackmannan are purchased in 
Alloa. The principal villages in the parish are those of Newton- 
Shaw, Kennet, and Westfield. There is a post-office in Clackman- 
nan, and the post from North Queensferry to Alloa and Stirling pas- 
ses through the town about ten o'clock in the morning; and that from 



CLACKMANNAN. 133 

Stirling and Alloa to North Queensferry about three o'clock in 
the afternoon. There is a coach from Alloa to Glasgow, which 
passes Clackmannan, every week-day morning a little after six 
o'clock, and returns every week-day evening about half-past eight 
clock. The steaA-boats which sail between Stirling and Granton 
pier, afford to the inhabitants of Clackmannanshire a very cheap and 
very agreeable mode of visiting Edinburgh, and all intermediate 
places. Alloa and Kincardine are the places where Clackmannan- 
shire passengers are received and landed. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated beside the 
town of Clackmannan, and its position in reference to the popula- 
tion of the parish is as eligible as any that could have been select* 
ed. But the extent of the parish, and the amount of the popu- 
lation are so great that neither any one church nor any one minister 
could be regarded as sufficient for them. 

From the church of Clackmannan, the parish extends towards 
the north-east, six and a-half miles : and towards the north* west, 
fully four miles. In the north-west division of the parish, there is 
a population of 1800, whose average distance from the parish 
church is more than three miles. The writer, feeling deeply con- 
scious of his utter inability to do anything like justice to a population 
of about 5000, scattered over a surface of nineteen square miles, 
set himself to the task of endeavouring to raise money for the 
erection of an Extension church in the north-west division of the 
parish. By the Divine blessing, on the exertions which were em- 
ployed by himself and others, funds for the purpose were at length 
realized, and the new church will be finished by the beginning of 
January 1842. The writer now entertains the cheering hope of 
seeing, ere long, an ordained minister labouring in the new parish 
of Sauchie, and of being thereby himself enabled to concentrate 
his exertions on a somewhat manageable field. The Extension 
church of Blairingone, in the parish of Fossaway, is not a mile 
distant from the north-east extremity of the parish of Clackmannan, 
and, accordingly, a district of considerable extent, but of small po- 
pulation, has been detached ecclesiastically from the writer's pa- 
rish, and connected with the quoad spiritualia parish of Blairingone. 
After deducting the amount of the population of the two districts 
to which allusion has been made, there will remain under the wri- 
ter's own pastoral superintendence about 3,300 souls. And when 
the parish has been circumscribed in the manner which has been 
mentioned, none of its population will be more than four and a- 



134 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

half miles, aud seven-eighths of the people will be less than two 
miles, from the parish church* 

It has been already stated that the present church was built 
about twenty-four years since, and that it is seated to accommodate 
1250 persons. The soil under and around the (fhurch being very 
strong clay, and very retentive of moisture, the church was felt 
during the winter months to be exceedingly cold and damp. But 
in the summer of 1839, the heritors and people were induced to 
subscribe for the erection of one of the heating and ventilating ap- 
paratus of the Messrs Haden, Wiltshire. The experiment bar- 
ing proved a most successful one, the church of Clackmannan is 
now, even in the most trying weather, perfectly comfortable* After 
the erection of the church, the sittings were apportioned to indivi- 
duals, and those under them, according to the existing law on the 
subject But, although, in consequence, there has not been any 
adequate provision made for not a few individuals, yet the practice 
of taking seat^rents has never been introduced. 

The manse is comparatively large, and has been judiciously 
planned. It is situated to the south of the town, and towards the 
summit of the rising ground on which Clackmannan stands. The 
views from it, and from the walks about it, are very beautiful and 
extensive. From the immediate neighbourhood, when the atmo- 
sphere is clear, both Ben Lomond and the Pentland Hills are 
within the range of one's vision. 

There are about four Scotch acres of glebe, whose annual value 
may be estimated at L. 16. The stipend is 18 chalders, one-half 
barley, and the other half oatmeal, convertible into money at the 
highest fiar-prices of the county. There is besides an allowance 
of L. 10 for communion elements, and also L. ], Ids. lOd. of 
" grass-mail." 

The only other place of worship in the parish, besides the pa- 
rochial church, is a Relief meeting-house. It was erected towards 
the close of the last century, and its 6rst minister died about seven 
years since. His successor having resigned his charge several 
months ago, without obtaining any other appointment, the congre- 
gation, which is small, is at present without any minister. To 
the last incumbent they paid L. 75 of stipend. 

A great majority of the inhabitants of the parish are in connection 
with the Established Church. But, owing to a variety of causes, 
which the writer deems it unnecessary to mention here, there is not 
that regard shown to the sanctity of the Sabbath, or to the ordi- 



CLACKMANNAN. 135 

nances of Christianity, which it were so desirable to see universally 
evinced. 

Education: — There are 7 day-schools in the parish, and there 
are also evening and Sabbath-evening schools. The parish school, 
which is adjacent to the town, is efficiently taught and numerous-; 
ly attended. The teacher has the maximum salary, and being 
both session-clerk and clerk to the heritors, and since, from the 
amount of the population of the parish, there are very many regis- 
trations and certificates required, his annual income must be highly 
respectable. 

Annual number of proclamations on an average of three years, - - 47 

Annual number of persons buried in the buryiog-ground of Clackmannan, on an 

average of three years, - - - .65 

Annual number of children baptized by the writer on an average of three year8,*132 

In the village of Kennet, which is about a mile from Clack- 
mannan, Mr and Mrs Bruce have built an exceedingly handsome 
schoolmaster's house and school-house. To these they have at- 
tached an endowment, and a very neat garden. The teacher's 
house has been so planned that a large room in it is used as a 
school-room for young females, who are taught by his wife. In 
the Kennet village school-rooms, the usual branches of education 
are taught, but the imparting of scriptural knowledge is made to 
occupy an unusually prominent place ; and since the teacher is a 
man of much Christian zeal, and of exemplary diligence, his pupils 
exhibit the most pleasing proofs of the extent and the accuracy of 
their religious knowledge. When decided symptoms of intellec- 
tual and moral superiority are displayed by any of the young fe- 
males, they are encouraged by Mrs Bruce to engage in those stu- 
dies and occupations, which are fitted to prepare them to fill su- 
perior situations as servants in genteel families. 

About seven years since, there were a schoolmaster's house 
and very large school-room, erected at the Devon Iron- Works, 
The teacher has a house, garden, and coal, and also his fees 
guaranteed to him by the Devon Iron Company. The day-school 
is numerously attended ; and since the teacher also teaches an 
eveningand Sabbath-evening school, much benefit has been there- 
by imparted to the rising generation in that district of the parish. 
In the large school-room at the Devon Iron- Works, the writer has 

* It is believed that the number which has been mentioned (Id2,) may be re- 
garded as being about one-third of the children born in the parish ; and if this sup- 
position be nearly correct, the average number of births will be, of course, about 220. 
Tlie writer is disposed to think that the mortality is comparatively great among the 
infant portion of the population connected with the different collieries in the parish. 



136 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 



• 



all aloog preached ODce a month on the Sabbath-evenings, for the 
bene6t of those of his people in that district who either cannot, 
or will not, come four miles to the parish church. 

At the village of Westfield, on the estate of the Earl of Zet- 
land, there are a schoolmaster's house, school-house, &c. sup- 
ported and maintained in a manner similar to those at the Devon 
Iron- Works. Here, too, much good is doing by the impart- 
ing of general knowledge, and by the inculcation of Christian prin- 
ciples. 

At Forest Mill, a hamlet about three miles and a-balf north- 
east from Clackmannan, there are a schoolmaster's house and 
school-room, and some ground, to insure, if possible, the perma- 
nent residence of a teacher. That part of the parish, however, 
being thinly inhabited, it has been found impossible to give to a 
good teacher anything like an adequate remuneration. There has 
been accordingly a succession of young men, who have merely 
alighted there, oh their way to some higher region. In 1766, 
Michael Bruce, the author of *^ Lochleven" and other poems, was 
the teacher at Forest Mill. In the days of other years, his poe- 
try was very popular, but it has fallen into the shade ; and the 
opinion of Sir Walter Scott, as quoted by Lockhart in his Life of 
the " Great Minstrel," will not tend to revive its celebrity. 

In the populous village of Newton-Shaw there are a school- 
room and garden, and a few pounds a year, given by the Earl of 
Mansfield, to assist in the maintenance of a teacher for the bene- 
fit of the children of his Lordship's feuars. The Newton- Shaw 
school has been, for some years, well taught and well attended. 
The only remaining day-school in the parish is in the neighbour- 
hood of Clackmannan. The teacher is altogether dependent on 
his own exertions. He has, in common, a pretty numerously at- 
tended school. At the seven day-schools which have been men- 
tioned, there are on an average about 500 scholars, being very 
nearly one-tenth of the entire population of the parish. The wri- 
ter is decidedly of opinion, that in the town of Clackmannan a 
well conducted infant-school would be the means of doing very 
much good. 

In the town of Clackmannan, there are two libraries — the one 
intended for the more wealthy portion of the community, and the 
otlier for the common people. But a desire for knowledge, and a 
thirst for reading, do not appear to be by any means prevalent. 



CLACKMANNAN. 137 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — 

Number of paupers on permanent roll, excIusiTe of lunatics and those receiving 

occasional relief, on an average of four years, . • - 61 

Number of persons dependent on these, - - - 32 

lunatics, - - - - - 3 

persons not on permanent roll, but receiving occasional relief 46 

Average number of poor of all classes, . 142 

Average of three years collections at church-doors, - - L. 66 2 
Average amount of other voluntary contributions, being annual sub- 
scriptions by the heritors und people, - • 120 13 4 
Average amount of mortclotb dues and other sessional funds, - 14 4 

L. 200 15 8 
Average amount distiibuted among paupers on perma- 
nent roll, . - - L. 160 
Average amount distributed fur support of lunatics under 
' superintendence, - • - - 45 
Average amount distributed among persons not on per- 
manent roll, - - - 25 
Average amount disbursed annually in the education of 
children, - - - - 6 

236 



Amount of annual expenditure over annual income, L. 35 4 4 

To obviate the evils arising from what the preceding financial 
statement represents, the heritors resolved, ]st, to allow them- 
selves to be assessed for the amount of the arrears. And 2dlt/f to 
allow themselves to be assessed annually for such sums as might 
be found necessary for the maintenance of all lunatics — thereby 
of course, relieving the ordinary sessional funds of the burden of 
supporting lunatics. This plan being now in operation, the be- 
lief is entertained that the sessional income will be made to meet 
the sessional expenditure. Among the purely agricultural part of 
the population, a determination is shown to '* fend for themselves" 
as long as possible. But among the persons connected with the 
different collieries, there is, in general, a disposition evinced to 
come upon the session as soon and as much as possible. 

The great multiplicity of public-houses in the parish is an evil 
exceedingly to be deplored, since it might be shown to have been 
productive of the most disastrous efiects. It must, however, in 
consistency with truth, be stated, that the amount of intemperance 
has been of late considerably diminished by the influence exercis- 
ed by the advocates of total abstinence. 

Coal is the fuel used by all classes of the people. The price 
on an average is about 6s. per ton. And since the whole of the 
numerous colliers families in the parish have an allowance of coal, 
as well as free houses and yards ; and since, in the parish, this fuel 
is at all times comparatively cheap, the blazing fires by which the 

CLACKMAN K 



if' 



l38 CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 

cottages of the people are warmed, conduce very much to tbeir 
comfort, and, of course, to their health and longevity. 

MiSCBLLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 

Since the former Statistical Account of the parish of Clack- 
mannan was written, there have been a great extension and im- 
provement of the embankments along the side of the Forth; 
thorough-draining, liming, and manuring, have been practised od 
a continually extending scale ; the character and value of all the 
different kinds of farm-stock has been now much enhanced ; a 
great additional length of rail-roads has been formed, and their 
general character, in common with that of other roads, has been 
very much improved. The climate, too, has been ameliorated, 
and the aspect of the country been made more attractive by ad- 
ditional plantations. And it is pleasing to observe, that a propor- 
tional degree of improvement has taken place in regard to the 
food, and the raiment, and the dwelling-houses, and all the other 
constituents of comfort, of the people. 

November 1841. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE COUNTY OF CLACKMANNAN. 



This county is situated between 56^5', and 56** 14° north lati- 
tude, and between 3® 33' and 3° 56' west longitude from Green- 
wich. It is the smallest county in Scotland, containing only about 
fifty-two square miles. It is bounded on the south and south-west 
by the river Forth ; by Fifeshire on the south-east ; and in other 
directions by Perthshire. About three-fourths of its surface are 
computed as under cultivation. 

The rent of the county for the year ending April 1811 was re- 
turned at L. 32,047 : and for the same year the rent of houses 
was stated at L. 2827. The annual value of real property, as as- 
sessed in 1815, was L. 37,978. The old valuation, L. 26,482, 
10s. Scots. 

This county returns a member to Parliament along with the 
county of Kinross. But by the Reform Bill, there were added to 
it for election purposes the neighbouring parishes of Curloss, Tul- 
liallan, Alva, and the Perthshire part of Logic. The Parliamentary 
constituency in 1840 amounted to 836. 

I. Table shewing the number of persons committed for trial 
or bailed for different offences in the county of Clackmannan, 
in the year 1840 : 

Offences against persons, . . 10 

Offences against property, committed with violence, 1 

without violence, ]9 

Foi^ery and offences against the currency, * . 2 

Other offences, ...... 4 

ToUl, , 36 





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TKINTED BY JOUN STAllK, OLD ASSEMBtY CLOSE, EDINBURQII, 



[ 14.1 ] 

CORRIGENDA TO DOLLAR. 

Dollar. — Since the preceding account of Dollar was printed^ 
certain evidence has come to our knowledge, which leads us to be- 
lie ve> that a slight error has been fallen into in the note on page 
105, relative to the ancient titles to the lands and Castle of Gloom 
or Campbell, which it is proper to correct. We have there given 
our reasons for believing that Colin, Earl of Argyle, married the 
eldest daughter of John, third Lord of Lorn and Innermeath, 
which reasons appeared satisfactory, and they are supported by 
Douglas, who, in his Peerage, states that Colin, Earl of Argyle, 
married Isabell, the eldest daughter of the said Lord Lorn. In 
the Black Book of Taymouth, which is a family manuscript kept 
at Taymouth Castle, and which was commenced about a century 
after the marriage, it is, however, stated, that Sir Colin Campbell 
of Glenurchy, who was the uncle and guardian of Colin, first Earl 
of Argyle, married the eldest daughter of the said John Lord 
Lorn, whose name was Janet and not Margaretj as she is called 
in the note ; and this statement we have reason to believe is true. 
The uncle. Sir Colin, was married some years previous to his ward, 
the Earl ; and it is not likely that the wife of the latter would be 
older than her sister, the wife of the former ; and in some old 
papers connected with the Argyle and Glenurchy families in the 
seventeenth century, Argyle is charged with ingratitude for hav- 
ing forgotten that Sir Colin Campbell, the husband of the elder 
sister, had consented to hold his third of the lordship of Lorn, 
&c. (the right to which in the brother or heir-male of John, third 
Lord Lorn and Innermeath, was given up by an agreement to the 
heirs-female), of the husband of his wife's younger sister, to increase 
the dignity of the family of Campbell, of which the latter was the 
chief, which statement is not denied in the papers for the Earl of 
Argyle. This family arrangement accounts for the Castle of 
Gloom being on that portion of the lands that fell to the Countess 
of Argyle, although she was not the eldest sister. The main 
point in the note is untouched, and seems to be indisputable, viz. 
that Castle Campbell came into the possession of the Argyle 
family in consequence of the marriage of Colin, first Earl of Ar- 
gyle, with Isabell, daughter of John third Lord of Lorn and In- 
nermeath, grandson of John first Lord Innermeath and Lorn, 
who married the daughter of John de Ergadia, the former pro- 
prietor of Lorn. 

P. 80, 1. 12, delete ^^ is reckoned a good breeding stream for 
salmon." 

CLACKMANNAN. L 



INDEX. 



Abercrombyi George, 89 
Aberdona mansion. bouse, 127 
Academics, see Education 
Agriculture and rural economy, 45, 72, 

111, lao 

Agriculture of the county, general obser- 
vations on, 1S9 

Alexander, Bishop, 40 

Allan, Dayid, the celebrated painter, 39 

Alloa, parish of, 1<— park, 17— ^:ivil his- 
tory of, 35 — house, burning of, 37— 
tower of, 42^ Park mansion, 43— town 
of, 52 — banks, 53— ministers of, from 
first settlement, 60 

AntiquiUes, 41, 71, 102, 125 

Argyle, family of, 108 

Banks, 53, 72 

Benclough hill, 77 

Birds, 10, 69, 91 

Boston, Thomas, of Ettrick, 127 

Botany, 15, 70, 92 

Breweries, 51, 128 

Bridge, the Vicar's, 80 — the Bumbling, 
81 

Brownhill, James, miller, 53 

Bruce, Michael, the poet» ISO 

Bruce, Robert, Esq. of Kcnnet, 47 

Bruceficld mansion, 127 

Cambus village, 8 

Carscbridge collie^, 25 

Castle Campbell, 103, I06~remarkable 
fissure in front of, 78— burning of, 104 

Cauldron Linn, 81 

Churches and chapels, KstaMished, see 
Ecclesiastical statistics — i^issvnting, 
sec Dissenters. 

Clackmannan, parish of, 121— collieries, 
123— tower, 125— county hall, 126— 
its history, civil, 125 — ecclesiastical, 
133— town of, 136— miscellaneous ob* 
•icrvations on, 138 

Climate and meteorology, 3, 5, 79, 80 

Club, Shakespeare, 63 

Coal-mine slavery, abolition of, 29 

Coal, prices of, 32, 88, 124 — varieties of, 
21,23,83 

Cogg and run machine, 26 

Collieries, 22, 25, 82, 124 

Colliers, condition of, 33— wages of, 31, 
88 

Communication, means of, 53, 74, 115, 

132 
Court, the Colliery Bailie, 34 

CLACKMANNAN. 



Craigwood cottage, 4 

Customs, shipping, &c. 51 

Daiglen-bum, 67 

Deirs mill, the, 81 

Devon, North, 7 — South, 8— Crook of,<^ 

Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 59, 
74,116,134 

Distilleries — Carsebridgc, 49— Cambus, 
49 

Dollar, parish of, 76 — institution, 94 — 
ministers of, since the Revolution, 101 
--^Id and new towns of, 110 

Education, suti&tica of, 61, 74, 117, 135 

Erskine, James, Esq. of Aberdona, 125 

Fairs, 65, 119 

Fisheries, 47 

Fishes, 12 

Fordyce, Dr James, 40 

Forrest, Dean Thomas, 56, 93 

Forth, the river, 6, 122 — peculiarity con* 
nected with its tides, 123 

Gartmom dam, origin of, 26 — ^hill of, 3 

Gases, 29 

Gas-work, 50 

Geology and mineralogy, 19,68, 81, 123 

Glass-works, Alloa, 49 

Gluming.side burn, 67 

Harviestoun house, 72 

Hills, the Ochills, 77 — DolUr, 77— 
King's seat, 126— the Wisp, 77 

Husbandry, systems of, 45, 72, 113. 130 

Insects, 14 

Inns and alehouses, and their effects, 65, 
75,119,137 

Institution, Alloa Mechanics, 63 — Dol- 
lar, 94 

Ironstone, 68 

Iron- works, the Devon, 128 

Kemp's score, 108 

Kennetpans mansion-house, 127 

Kennet village, 135 

Kilbagie mansion-house, 128 

King's seat, 77 

Libraries and literature, 62, 118, 136 

Lock law, Thomas, 50 

Macnab, John, 94 

Maddie moss, 77 

Mans6cld, Earl of,. 39 

Mann factories, 4, 50 
Manufactures, woollen, 48, 73, 1 15 
Mar, family of, 37 
Markets, see Fairs 
Meteorology, see Climate 

M 



144 



CLACKMANNANSHIRE. 



Millfl— Alloa, 51-^be DeU'i, 81— Fo- 

rest, 136 
Mineralogy, see Geology 
Newton>Shaw Tillage, 136 
PlanUtions and planting, 16, 45, 70, 92,- 

130 
Population returns, 44, 72, 110, 129 
Pottery, the Alloa, 50 
Produce, average agricultural, 47, 132 
Quarries, 47, 68, 83 
Railway, the Alloa coal, progressive im- 

provements on, 29 
Registers, parochial, 40, 7], 101, 118 
Rent of land, rates of, 45, 72, 112, 130 
Rivers and waters— Forth, 6— Devon, 7, 

67, 78— Gu-troom dam, 8, 26— King's 

well, 6— Lady's well, 6— Throsk ford, 

21— Tillicoultry bum, 67— Dollar. 

burn, 77 — Dollar mineral, 80— Black 

Devon, 122 
Rope and sailmaking, 50 
Rumbling-brig, 81 
Salmon, die, 13 
Schools, see Education 
Shaw>park house, 43 
Ship-building, 50 



SocieUes. 35, 47, 48, 60. 63, 131 

Stamp-office. Alloa, 33 

Stirling, Michael, 53 

Stone cross, the, 42 

Sword, ancient, 71 

Tannery, Tullibody, 49 

Tides, 7 

Tillicoultry, parish of, 66— hills of, 68— 
civil history of, 70— house, 72 — vil- 
lage, 73 

Tirly.bothy, 55 

Towns and villages^ Alloa, 37 — Tulli- 
body, 54— Tillicoultry, 73— 'Dollsr, 
110— Kennct, 1 35— WestSeld,' 136— 
Newton-Shaw, 136 — Cambus, 8 

Trees, remarkable, 18 

Tullibody, house of, 43— village, 64 

Wages, rates of, 31, 45, 73, 1 12 

Weather, prognostics of, 5 

Westfield village, 136 

Wisp-hill, the, 77 

Woods, see Plantations 

Works, brick and tile, 50 

Zedand, Earl of, 125 

Zoology, 9, 69, 88 



PRINTED BY JOHN STARK, 
OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDINBURGH. 



UNIVERSITY OF MICHIQAN 



3 9015 06374 2657 



I 




UNIVERSITY OF MICHIQAN 
3 9015 06374 2657 



I