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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through I lie lull lexl of 1 1 us book on I lie web al |_-.:. :.-.-:: / / books . qooqle . com/| L JEW •St>/ THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. IX. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OP SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLEROT. VOL. IX. FIFE— KINROSS. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. 00 S FIFE CONTENTS. ABBOT8HALL, • m PAGB 146 ABDIB, • m 47 ABBRCROMBIB, ff • 337 ABBRDOUR, • • 716 ANSTBUTHBR EASTER, ■ • 295 AN8TRUTHBR WESTER, ■ 611 AUCHTBRDBRRAN • 165 AUCHTBRM UCflTY , • 781 AUCBTBRTOOL, • a 249 BALLINGRY, • • 446 BALMBRINO, . • • 577 BBATB, . • • 174 BURNTISLAND, • • 404 CAMERON, • • 304 CARNBBB, • * 913 OARNOCK, • • 690 CERES, • • 517 COLLBSSIE, ■ • 21 CRAIL, • * # 959 CRBICH, • • 631 CULTS, • • 558 CUPAR, . • • 1 DAIBSIB, • • 770 D ALGETY, • « • 181 DUNBOO, • v 205 DUNFBRMLINB, • • 821 DUNINO, t 356 DY8ART, - ■ • 127 BLIB, * • ■ 278 FALKLAND, • • 920 FERRY PORT-ON-CRAIG, 81 FUSK, • • 595 FOR G AN, • a 505 INYBRKBITBING AND ROSYTH, 230 KBMBACK, m m 719 KBNNOWAY, • • 375 KETTLE, • • 102 KILCONQUHAR, t • 315 K1LMANY, .;0 532 VU1 00HTKHT8. KILKENNY, KINGHORN, KINQLASSIE, KING8BARN8, KIRKCALDY, LARGO,' LESLIE, LEUCHARS, LOGIE, MARKING H, MONIHAIL, MOONZIE, NBWBURGH, . NBWBURN, PITTBNWBEM, ST ANDREWS, 8T LEONARDS, ST MONANS, . SALINE, SCOONIE, 8TRATHMIGLO, TORRYBURN, WEMYS8,. PAGB 970 800 194 89 740 434 111 217 426 655 37 786 56 124 983 449 497 337 798 264 775 727 390 mm&msm&m smms. PARISH OF CUPAR. PRE8BYTERY OF CUPAR, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. LAURENCE ADAMSON, D.D. FIRST MINISTER. THE REV. JOHN BIRRELL, A. M. SECOND MINISTER* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries, fyc* — This parish consists of the two parishes of Cupar and St Michael of Tarvit, which were conjoined in the beginning of the seventeenth century, in 1618, — the boundary of separation betwixt them having been the small river of Eden, as it then flowed, f It is situated about the middle of the county or pe- ninsula of Fife, and is nearly equidistant, about 10 miles, from New- burgh, Ferry- Port-on- Craig, St Andrews, and Largo. It contains the town of Cupar, which was made a royal burgh, invested with extensive privileges and properties at an early period, and*is de- scribed by Cambden as " Burgus insignis." Though divested now, by the liberality or prodigality of its rulers, of nearly all its extensive properties, as a burgh Cupar enjoys still the privileges that are al- lowed by the late Reform Act, and ranks as the county town of Fife.} The parish is of a very irregular form, and is much indented by the parishes of Dairsie, Ceres, and Monimail. It measures from east to west nearly 5 miles, and about the same from north to south. Its surface is beautifully diversified by rising grounds, and intersected by the river Eden and the Lady Burn, or St Mary's Burn, which meet at an acute angle at the eastern extremity of the town. It is bounded on the north and east by Dairsie and Kern* back ; on the south by Ceres ; on the west by Cults and Monimail ; and on the north by Moonzie and Kilmany. Meteorology. — The climate of this parish is mild and salubrious. * Drawn up by the Rev. John Birrell, second minister of the parish. t Having been a fewyears ago straighted, a small portion of St Michael's is situat- ed to the north of the Eden, near the County-Hall. X By the ancient charters to the town of Cupar, preserved in the Register Office in Edinburgh, whereof an authentic duplicate is deposited with the town clerk, the magistrates possessed a much more extensive jurisdiction over the surrounding pa- rishes than what is now or has been for a long time exercised. FIFE. A 2 FIFESHIRK. Though the town of Cupar and the lower parts of the parish that lie along the banks of the Eden are liable to be enveloped in hoar frost at certain seasons, particularly in the spring and autumn, yet the air is in general dry and exhilarating. As the town is situated little more than twenty-five feet above the level of the sea, the temperature and climate are warm and agreeable. In consequence of this, there seems to be no particular disease incident to the parish. And while there are some instances of extreme old age in it, — two or three persons upwards of 90 and one above- 100, — there are many of an almost youthful vigour at the advanced period of three- score and ten and fourscore years. Hydrograpliy. — The small river of Eden, flows from west to east through the parish, as well as the strath to which it gives its name. It rises about sixteen miles west, near the north side of the West Lomond. It is joined, at the eastern extremity of the town, by the Lady Burn, which flows from north-west to south- east till . the point of junction. The bed of the Eden is very level, in consequence of which it flows sluggishly (lene fluit aquis.) Though Cupar is six miles from the sea, at Edenmouth, the river has a fall of only twenty-five feet. It is not available, therefore, for the purposes of machinery to the extent that the vo- lume of water which it contains would justify, were its descent more rapid. Through the enterprise of modem times, however, nearly every fall has been seized upon and turned to account And though there is not a wheel moved by it within the parish that has more than a breast-fall, yet there are several employed for the move- ment of powerful machinery. From entering the parish till leav- ing it, it is made available to the extent of eighty horse power. The course of the Lady Burn is more brisk and rapid ; but the volume of water is in general so small, that, except by much damming up and saving, it cannot be made to serve any other purpose than that of driving thrashing-mills. The junction of these two streams at the town gives to it a lively appearance, and contributes greatly to its cleanliness and healthfulness. There are many perennial springs in the parish. And at any place of the town, by sinking to the depth of 20 or 30 feet, an abundant supply of water can be pro- cured, fit for all domestic purposes except washing. Geology and Mineralogy. — While the surface of the parish is diversified and undulating, the geological construction and the cha- racter of the minerals is also various. Along the banks of the Eden on either side, white sandstone abounds, lying in strata of CUPAR. 3 various degrees of compactness according to their depth, and dip- ping on both sides towards the south. Along the banks of the Lady Burn, a sandstone conglomerate prevails, consisting of large masses of quartz and other flinty ingredients, and resembling a coarse puddingstone. Surmounting this rock, and at irregular and undulating distances from the Lady Burn, there runs a very singular mound, composed (when examined) of fresh water gravel Beginning at the distance of nearly a quarter of a mile from the point where the Eden and the Lady Burn meet, this mound runs in a serpentine direction, till it terminates, as it rises, abruptly, in what is now called the School, but anciently the Castle-hill. About the middle, there is a peak of greater elevation than the rest, which is called the Moot-hill, and on which, according to tradition, the Earls of Fife used to hold their councils of war, and dispense the awards of justice. Were one to look to appearance, or to listen to report without attending to the magnitude of this mound, he might conclude, as has been sometimes supposed, that it is artificial. But, looking to the size, this supposition is instantly checked. And ex- tending the view across from the Castle or School-hill to the op- posite side of the Eden, and remarking the same serpentine and mound-like appearance continuing, there is left no room to doubt that the mound is a natural deposit formed at some remote period, and broken through, as it now is, by the action of the Eden* Above this mound, and on the north and south sides of the Eden, there is an immense bed of clay of a very excellent quality, and peculiarly fitted for the making of brick and tiles, for which it has long been used. Recently, it has been employed for the making of coarse earthen-ware, and is found to answer well. Higher up, and behind this embankment, as it must have been till it was worn away by the water, lie what are called the Wards, — an extensive and fertile plain, all now under the plough, but wearing decided marks of having been at one time under water, and forming the bottom of a large lake or basin, which has been emptied and laid dry by the wearing down of the embankment The name of Fer- ry still attaches to some of the places on the sides of this plain ; and even at the period of the Reformation it was of such an impassable nature, that, while the royal forces lay on the hill or Garley Bank on the south side, and the Lords of the Congregation lay encamped on a moor on the opposite, this marsh formed a barrier of separa- tion betwixt them sufficiently strong to prevent them from advan- cing to or molesting each other. 4 FIFESHIRE. Above the gravel and sandstone strata which lie along the banks of the Eden and Lady Burn, trap rock, greenstone, and clinkstone, abound and are quarried extensively. Neither coal nor lime are to be found in the parish, nor in any part of the Strath of the Eden or How of Fife, — although both of these valuable articles are in abun- dance, and of excellent quality, about seven and ten miles to the south. The soil of the parish is very variable, from a light sandy soil to that of a strong and heavy clay. In general, however, it is good and fertile, and through the means of long cultivation, and from a full command of manure, it is highly improved, and produces the finest crops. Zoology. — The rarer species of birds to be found in the parish, are the jay, the golden crested -wren, the willow-wren, the water- hen, the water-ouzel, the kingfisher, the long- tailed titmouse, the goat-sucker. * II. — Civil History. There is a good map of the parish lately executed and litho- graphed by John Govan, Esq. W. S. common agent for the heri- tors in adjusting the localities, — and which, though not scientifically correct, gives a good view of the conjoined parishes. There is also a good plan of the town in Wood's Burgh Atlas, published several years ago. Antiquities. — The ancient Castle of Cupar stood on the termina- tion of the mound already described as running along the course of the Lady Burn. This is represented by Buchanan as a place of very considerable strength in the time of Edward Baliol. During the invasion of the English at that time, it was seized upon, and occu- pied by them till they were driven by famine to abandon it and re- turn across the Forth to their own country. Its position at the junction of the Eden and Lady Burn favours the opinion, that, at a time when these streams were not so well guarded within their banks as they now are by artificial means, it must have been a for- tress of considerable strength, and in a rude state of warfare must have presented considerable resistance to an assailing force. While workmen were employed some years ago in improving the line of road that runs to the east, several skeletons were found, which were conjectured to be those of the soldiers who had fallen while con- * A pack of fox hounds is kept at Cupar as head quarters, subscribed for by seve- ral gentlemen in the county, and as there are abundance of woods in Fife, the sport is generally good. There is also at Cupar a small subscription pack of harriers. 4 CUPAR. 5 ducting some assault upon this fortress. Now, however, there re- main no vestiges of the fortress. The hill has long been held as the property of the town, and occupied as the site of the schools and academy. In the times of Sir David Lindsay of the Mount, it is said to have been used as the play-field for the exhibition and the acting of his dramatic pieces. The name of Castle-hill has now pas- sed into the more peaceful name of School-hill, and the plays ex- hibited daily, are those of youths when just " let loose from school." Under this hill, on the south, stood a convent of Dominican or Blackfriars, belonging originally to the Island of May, and after- wards transferred to. St Andrews, which, like its more warlike neigh- bour, has now been completely removed. That part of the chapel " % built of cut freestone," which at the writing of the last Account is said to have been standing, has been taken away to make room for a very handsome street Near or on the very site of the cha- pel of the convent, stands now the Episcopal chapel, St James's, which is a very handsome building, meant to form part of the street when completed. And lately, when the grounds of the convent were trenched, to answer the purposes of a kitchen-garden, many re- ceptacles of the dead were disturbed, and their skeletons dug up. Another striking remembrancer of the olden times is a small co- nical eminence on the opposite side of the Eden, and lying a little further down the river than the School-hill. This, which, at the time of the last Account, was under cultivation, is now covered with a young thriving plantation belonging to the proprietor of Tarvit. It was the site of the church of the parish of St Michael, and formed the burying-ground of that parish. A few years ago, when an alteration was making upon the public roads, many of the depositaries of the dead were broken open, and the remains of their inmates brought to view after a repose of at least two centuries. This receptacle of the dead has thus been again converted into common earth. In the same manner, has the burial-ground of the parish of Cupar, which lay at a remoter period at a distance of fully a mile to the north-west of the town, and of the present burial- ground, where the church also stood, been converted again into common earth, and scarcely does a vestige remain to shew where it was. At the time of the last Account, it formed part of what was called the glebe of the first minister of the parish. An excambion has since been made to accommodate the proprietor of Springfield, in whose policy it lies. With the exception of its being a little more elevated than the surrounding field, nothing remains to tell 6 F1FESHIRE. the passing stranger that the dead lie there. To shew, howeyer, the effect of prejudice upon the mind, it may be noticed, that there are still individuals to be found who have aa unwillingness to pass the spot under night The present burial-ground haying been set apart and conse- crated in 1415, when the church was removed from its former si* tuation, and built nearer the town, can boast of few ancient monu- ments. One of the most ancient is that erected to the memory of Mr William Scott, who was for many years first minister of Cupar, and who built the spire of the steeple at his own expense, and ac- cording to his own design. This monument shews the burial-place of the ministers of the parish. But, in consequence of the action of the weather upon the stones of which it is composed, the inscrip- tion is completely obliterated* It is said to have been executed in Holland, and erected by the relatives of Mr Scott, who belonged to the family of Balwearie, shortly after his death, and must have been thought a work of taste in that time. As there is none to take an interest in its repair, it bids fair to go soon into com- plete decay. There is also a monument erected to the memory of some of those who suffered for conscience sake in the times of Charles II. * In the east end of the outside of the present church there is a niche shewing where St James's altar once stood. Within the church in the western wall, lies a full length statue of Sir John Arnot of Fernie, who fell in the last crusade. And in the same wall is a very handsome marble tablet, erected to the memory of the late * This is a simple 6tone> modern in its appearance, and bears this inscription. ** Here lies interred the heads of Laur. Hay, and Andrew Pitulloch, who suffered martyrdom at Edinburgh, July 13th 1681, for adhering to the word of God and Scotland's covenanted work of reformation ; and also one of the hands of David Hack- ston of Rathillet, who was most cruelly murdered at Edinburgh, July SOth 1680, for the same cause." On the obverse of this stone are the following lines, with the date at the top, 1680. Our persecutors filled with rage, Their brutish fury to aswage Took heads and hands of martyrs off, That they might be the people's scoff; They Hackstoris body cut asunder, And set it up a world's wonder In several places, to proclaim, These monsters gloried in their shame. At the bottom of these lines there is this intimation, " Erected July 13th 1792.* On inquiry, however, it is found that this present stone, which certainly was erected in 1792, was put up as a substitute for another which had become quite decayed, and which is supposed to have been erected immediately after the events recorded. The epitaph and the lines on the obverse are said to be the same as those that were in- scribed upon the original stone. This stone is newly painted once a year, as it has been, ever since it was set up, by private individuals, at their own expense. .CUPAR. 7 Dr Campbell, writer of the last Account, by his sons Sir George of Eden wood, and Sir John, the present Attorney- General The ancient cross of Cupar still stands, and is seen from a great distance on the top of the hill of Wemyss Hall. It was carried up and placed there by the late Colonel Wemyss, father of the pre- sent proprietor of Wemyss Hall, when it had been removed from its original position to make way for the improvements that were making upon the streets. It is a straight round column surmount- ed by the town arms, and placed now upon a strong pedestal, com- posed of the rock of the hill on which it stands. Parochial Records. — The records of the kirk-session reach back to the year 1648. The minutes of session contain many curious and interesting views of the character and manners of the times. Excepting a chasm from 1661-1695, they are complete. The re- gisters of baptisms, deaths, and marriages, reach back to 1654, and are brought down regularly, and without interruption, to the present time. Modern Buildings, $*c. — The modern buildings of the town are, the Town and County Halls, and an Episcopal chapel, standing in the New Street, otherwise called St Catherine Street, and form- ing part of it Also, a town and county jail, standing on the op- posite side of the Eden from the town, but built in the style of the New Street, and according to a plan by which it was to orna- ment that street Its present site, however, and the plan on which it is built, do not correspond. None of the modern build- ings can boast of much elegance. The County Buildings, when the plan by which they are now being enlarged shall have been completed, will be very spacious, and afford such accommodation for the county meetings, and the meetings of the Sheriff-courts, and Justice of Peace Courts, and also for the keeping of the pub- lic records, &c of the county, as will reflect great credit upon the county. In the County Hall, there are two very elegant portraits lately procured by the county. One of these is a portrait of the late General John Earl of Hopetoun, by Raeburn. The other is that of Thomas Earl of Kellie, Lord Lieutenant of Fife, by Wil- kie. They were procured by the gentlemen of the county in tes- timony of the high respect in which they held these noblemen, and in return for the high services which they rendered, by their atten- tion to the business of the county. The most ancient mansion-houses in the parish are those of Carslogie and Wemyss Hall. The former was built upwards of four 8 FIFESHIRE. hundred years ago ; and, having long served as the family seat of the Clephanes, has now passed by purchase into the hands of the Rev. Mr Laing, who resides at his living in Northumberland. The latter, according to Sibbald, was newly built in the beginning of last century, and has been lately enlarged by the present proprie- tor, James Wemyss, Esq. of Winthank. The famous iron hand of the Clephanes is said to be still in preservation, and in the pos- session of the heirs of the family. There is said, also, to be a charter, granted to the family by Malcolm Canmore, in the posses- sion of the heirs of the family. The modern mansion-house of Kilmaron, the country seat of James Cheyne, Esq. Edinburgh, built in the castellated form, according to a plan by Gillespie, is the only house that lays claim to any degree of magnificence. The other houses are plain, and suited to the modest and unpretending requirements of the pro- prietors. They are, the house of Tarvit, the property and fa- mily residence of James Home Rigg, Esq. of Downfield ; Spring- field, that of Colonel Don, E. I. C. S. ; Dalyell, that of John Dal- yell, Esq. of Lingo ; Hilton, that of William Tod, Esq. ; Cairnie Lodge, that of General Foulis, C. B., E. I. C. S. ; Pitblado, that of George Russell, Esq. ; Prestonhall, that of R. Swan, Esq ; Mid- dlefield, that of John Russell, Esq.; Foxton, that of Andrew West, Esq. ; Balas, that of Alexander Bogie, Esq. ; Ferrybank, that of Colonel Craigie, E. I. C. S. ; Bellfield, that of Captain Moncrieff of Balcurvie; Blalowne, that of John Govan, Esq. W. S.; and Westfield, that of Mr Walker of Pittencrieff. III. — Population. When the parishes of Cupar and St Michael were united in 1617, the population of the two did not much exceed 1000. Since that period it has continued to increase gradually and progres- sively. Population in 1801, 4463 1811, 4758 1821, 5692 1831, 6473 One mode of accounting for this gradual increase is the disposi- tion, engendered in some measure by necessity, on the part of the la- bouring classes, to repair to towns when old age and infirmity ren- der them unfit for the labours of the field. Another mode of ac- counting for it is, the increase of trade and manufactures of all kinds in the town, and the facility that exists of obtaining all the comforts and conveniences of life at a cheap and easy rate. It is CUPAR. 9 to be remarked, too, that the increase has taken place principally in the town of Cupar, and in the two villages of Springfield and Glaidney Cotton, — the one on the western, and the other on the southern extremity of the parish* In the landward part of the parish, the population has diminished rather than increased. Number of population in the town of Cupar is about 5000 That of Springfield and neighbourhood, . . 500 Glaidney, • . 300 the landward part, • 678 Number of families in the parish, - - 1482 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 142 in handicraft, - - 766 It is impossible to give any accurate average of the births in the parish, as the dissenters of all kinds are in the practice of declin- ing to register their children in the parish register. The funerals that take place in the parish amount to about 149 annually. Of these, some are brought from adjoining parishes ; while many of those that die in the parish are carried out of it for burial. The number of marriages, or at least of proclamations for marriage, amounts to 56 or thereby. Land-owners. — The parish can boast of no nobility resident in it, and none connected with it except the Earl of Glasgow, who, as heir to the Crawford estates, ranks as an heritor. There are, how- ever, residing in it 14 families of independent fortune. All these are landed proprietors, and with an yearly income from their land of L. 50 and upwards. There is nothing peculiar in the strength, size, complexion, or other personal qualities of the inhabitants. There are only two cases of confirmed derangement in the parish. Of late, the at- tention of the public to any instance of temporary derangement has been particularly favourable to their speedy recovery. By sending the patients, or, if paupers, by applying to have them sent, immediately to the very excellent and well-conducted asylum at Dundee, the effect -has been truly gratifying. Of five or six that have been sent within these ten years, all have been restored, af- ter one or two quarters' confinement, perfectly cured. There are four or five fatuous cases in the parish ; one of blindness, occa- sioned by accident ; none deaf and dumb. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The state of agriculture in this parish is the most approved. The number of acres is 5545, imperial measure. Where every acre is arable, and either under the plough or covered with plantations in various stages of advancement, every spot wears the ap- 10 FIFESHIRE. pearance of the highest cultivation. As a great many of the farms are in the natural possession of the proprietors, and either ma- naged by themselves or by skilful and experienced overseers, it may be said, that nothing remains to be done in the way of im- provement There are no wastes to be reclaimed, no commons to be divided, and no marshes to be drained* Rental) $c. — The total valued rent of the parish is L. 7237, 15s. 7d. Scots. Of this, L. 1912 Scots is assumed by the burgh as the value of the burgh lands, and other property in the town ; and in this they allow themselves to be liable for repairs of church and manse. This sum, however, holds no place in the cess books of the county. The real rental, as taken in 1829 for a process of augmentation before the Teind Court, was L. 9977, lis. 9d. Ster- ling. This rental was subsequently examined and generally ac- quiesced in by all concerned, as a fair rule for laying on the cho- lera assessment in 1832. This, therefore, may be taken as the actual rental of the whole parish ; and if the number of acres is taken to be 5545, imperial measure, we have the average rental per acre to be L. 1, 15s. 1 lfd. This includes what is under wood. Making a deduction for what is under wood and inarable, perhaps L. 2, 10s. per acre for what is under cultivation is as near an ap- proximation to the truth as any that can be found. According to its quality, or its distance from the town, the land varies from L. 5 to L. 1, 10s. Some small spots have let within these seven years as high as L. 7. The average rent of grazing during the year, may be set down at L. 6, 6s. per ox, and L. 1, 5s. per ewe or full-grown sheep. The rate of a mason's labour is 2s. 6d. and that of a carpenter's 2s. 3d. a day. Live-StocL — The common breeds of oxen are the ancient Fife breeds, which have gained the prizes at all the great cattle-shows in Scotland, and so excel other breeds, that the Highland Socie- ty have doubts about allowing them to enter for competition. Some specimens of the Teeswater breed have been introduced, and do very well ; but there seems to be a partiality for the old stock rather than for the new. And this arises from the impression that the for- mer are more hardy, equally profitable for feeding for the butcher, and more useful for all the purposes of the dairy. As sheep are little attended to except by those who feed their own. mutton, no- thing can be said of this kind of stock. Husbandry. — The mode of husbandry in the parish is much CUPAR. 11 the same as what prevails over the county* It is the five or six year's rotation, and as the soil is suitable both for wheat and tur- nips, the most luxuriant and productive crops are everywhere to be found* The general duration of leases is nineteen years, with entry at Martinmas* The farm-buildings are neat and commodi- ous, and suitable to the requirements of farms where all is under the plough* Quarries. — There are four quarries in the parish of excellent white sandstone, and two of greenstone fit for road metal and coarse kinds of building* Produce.— It seems quite impossible to state the gross amount of agricultural produce* The number of heritors liable to pay stipend, or rather the number of small properties in the hands of heritors so liable, amounts to 172* Any attempt at determining the gross produce, could lead to nothing but a distant approxima- tion to the truth* It is no uncommon thing, however, to find land yielding 3£ quarters of wheat, 6 do* of barley, 5£ do* of oats per acre* Of potatoes, of which a great many are grown' to be shipped for the London market, it is not very uncommon to find 50 or 60 bolls of 28 stones on the acre. Fifty bolls an acre, however, may be taken as an average crop of this valuable root Manufactures. — There are three spinning^mills in the parish, one of which is driven entirely by water, another partly by water and partly by steam, and a third altogether by steam. Of these tbe first two are occupied in spinning flax, and the last in making thread* The number of hands employed in the three amounts to 236. Besides these there are two corn and barley mills, and two flour mills, all well employed* The corn, barley, and flour mills at Cupar, especially since they were feued by the burgh of Cupar to the late John Inglis, Esq* of Colluthie, have been celebrated as the best in Fife ; and have been employed by bakers and meal- dealers from a great distance. There is a snuff-mill, to which to- bacco is sent to be manufactured, not only from all parts of Fife, but also from the counties to the north* It is said that about 60,000 lbs. of snuff are manufactured there every year. And whether it is owing to the greater consumption of that article, or to the growing celebrity of the mill, it has been found necessary of late to increase the power of the mill, and to add a steam power to that of the water, by which it was fonrierly driven. There is also a washing or fulling mill. There are two tan-works ; one for hides and another for sheep skins. To this latter a manufacture 12 FIFESHIRE. of glue has been added within these few years. There are three breweries ; a brick and tile-work, at which coarse earthen-ware is made ; and a rope-work. Though there are no linen manufactures upon a united scheme, and no power looms, yet the manufacture of linen is carried on to a considerable extent, and the number of weavers and others em- ployed is great. There are at least ten distinct manufacturers with their capitals embarked in the linen trade. By these different ma- nufacturers, there are employed within the parish not less than 600 weavers. And as every two weavers require one person to wind for them, the number employed and earning a comfortable subsist- ence from this trade may be reckoned at 900, all living in their own houses, and labouring in their own workshops. Besides those that are employed within the parish, the different manufacturers have weavers employed in the various towns and villages in the neighbourhood throughout the county. The linen manufactured is of various kinds and qualities, and is exported to the East and West Indies, as well as to all parts of the continent of Europe and of America. V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — Cupar has long been known as a leading and import- ant market-town. Besides the weekly corn-market, which is held every Thursday, there are a great many fairs for the sale of all kinds of stock, and domestic and agricultural utensils of all sorts. Till within these few years, these fairs took place on particular days of the month, and thus occasioned great confusion. Now, by an arrangement that has been generally approved of, they are held on the Thursday next to the day of the month on which they used to be held. Besides being a market-town, Cupar is also a post- town. And lying on the great road that leads from Edinburgh to Dundee and the north of Scotland, through Fife, there are three coaches that regularly pass through it every day except Sunday, to the north and to the south. There are also coaches to St An- drews and to Largo, where there is now a steam-boat ferry to New- haven. So that, with all the conveniences of excellent markets, the inhabitants of the town and parish can boast of as many advan- tages as are possessed in any town or parish of its size in the king- dom. The town of Cupar, along with St Andrews and Craill, the two Anstruthers, Kilrehny and Pittenweem, send a member to Par- liament. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated as nearly as CUPAR. 13 may be in the middle of the parish. It is a large and commodi- ous, though by no means an elegant building, according to the no- tions of elegance that are now entertained. It was built in 1785, and is in the plain and unattractive style of that period. It was originally built to accommodate 1196; but, by some slight altera- tions since made, it accommodates now 1300 sitters. This, how- ever, is far from being sufficient for a population of 6473. And did the law not define the extent of the accommodation that pa- rishes should have, it might be enough, to show the inadequacy of the accommodation in this instance, to mention that, in July 1635, the number of those that communicated at the dispensation of the Lord's supper was 1237. Another building of the same dimen- sions as the present would not furnish the requisite accommodation. To obviate the evils arising from this want, an application was made by the kirk-session to the heritors two years ago to hire the Mason's Hall, for the benefit of those who could not be provided with seats in the church. This they very readily did, and service is now performed in it by the collegiate ministers every Sabbath, to a congregation of not less than 300. The sittings in this place of temporary accommodation are all free. The sittings of the church are all occupied, and, with the exception of about 150, which are free, are all either let at a small rent, or are in the na- tural possession of the proprietors and their tenants. To get a permanent remedy for the want of accommodation, a subscription was entered into last year by a number of spirited and well-affect- ed individuals, among whom were almost all the heritors, to build another church in a convenient part of the town. The subscrip- tions were nearly completed. An application was made to the Presbytery to sanction the erection of the building, according to the conditions proposed by the subscribers. The Presbytery ap- proved and granted the application. But an application made to the General Assembly of 1835, to sanction the whole proceedings, was met by an injunction from that venerable court, which paralyz- ed all the proceedings of the subscribers and of the Presbytery ; and whether the building will now go on is very questionable. It is very much wanted* It was anxiously wished for, by the church- going people of the parish. And without it, the population of the parish, as they are daily increasing, must either go off, against their will, as they have hitherto done in many instances, to the dissen- ters, or they must sink, as in many other large towns, into a state of heathenism, and show all the evils of spiritual darkness in the 14 FIFESHIRE. midst of the very light in which the people of this country have so long rejoiced* Though there were originally two parishes in this locality, there is only a piece of land of about three acres got in exchange for the old kirk-yard, and which goes under the name of glebe for the first minister, belonging to the living. Till the decision of the House of Lords in the case of Ayr, there was not even one manse. Since that decision, a manse has been built for the first minister. The second minister, though his stipend is paid out of the teinds, has neither manse nor glebe. Since the last Account was written, the number of dissenting chapels has very much increased, in consequence, no doubt, of the increase of the population, added to the want of accommodation in the parish church. There is an Episcopalian chapel ; two cha- pels belonging to the Relief connection ; one to the Associate Sy- nod ; one to the Old Light Burghers, or Original Seceders ; one to the Baptists, and one to the Glassites. Till the late voluntary move* ments began in the country, the different dissenting bodies stood well affected to the church ; and, while they retained their own particular tenets, lived in a kindly understanding with the church. The mass of the people are still well affected as before, and show a disposition to go hand in hand with the church in all those mat- ters which tend to promote peace and good feeling. The exact number of Dissenters and Seceders in the parish, it has been found impracticable to ascertain. Divine service, is, in general, well attended in the Established Church, and also in the dissenting chapels. The average number of communicants in the church is 1237. The stipends of the Es- tablished ministers are 18 chalders each, half meal half barley, with L. 10 each for communion elements. The stipends allowed by their people to the dissenting ministers are from L. 80 to L. 120 per annum. There is a Bible Society and a Missionary Society in the pa- rish, but supported by contributors from adjoining parishes. Their contributions are not great, and not on the increase. The Bible Society suffered by the Apocryphal controversy a few years ago ; and the Missionary Society is suffering now by the voluntary dis- turbances, and by the misunderstanding that these have produced betwixt churchmen and dissenters. Education. — There is not, and, strictly speaking, never has been, CUPAR. 15 a parochial school in the parish. Up till the year 1823, there were two burgh schools, which were under the sole patronage and direction of the magistrates, — the masters' salaries being paid out of the funds of the burgh. In 1823, a subscription was entered into, to have an academy erected according to the approved model of modern times. An arrangement was made betwixt the magistrates and the sub- scribers, by which the former merged their rights of patronage and direction, and agreed to be represented at the meetings of the subscribers or patrons of the academy, by certain members of their own body. They agreed,' also, to pay a certain proportion of the teachers' salaries along with the patrons, and to grant the use of the buildings belonging to them as a corporation, for the academy. ' This arrangement still subsists. By the munificence of the late Dr Bell, the estate of Egmore in Galloway has been left under trustees, consisting of the Lord Lieutenant of the county, the Lord Justice- Clerk, the Sheriff of the county, the Provost, the Dean of Guild, and the two parochial ministers of Cupar, to be manag- ed for the purpose of forwarding the interests of education accord- ing to the Madras system. By special stipulation, Dr Bell wishes his institution to be amalgamated, under certain conditions, with the academy as already existing. Hitherto the arrangements have not been completed. The burgh have it in their power to make arrangements which may free them and the community from a great expense, and to secure for them a great advantage under this trust. But whether they will see their interests, remains to be proved. In the meantime, the business of education is conducted by Dr Bell's Trustees, in concert with the patrons of the academy. In the academy, there are three departments of teaching : English in all its branches ; the languages, ancient and modern, with geo- graphy ; arithmetic in all its branches and writing. The salaries of the masters are good, and the school-fees small ; but, as there is nothing as yet permanently fixed, and as Dr Bell's Trustees are burdened in the meantime with the payment of several annuities, and are therefore not yet come to the use of those funds which may enable them fully to develope their plans, it is premature to be more particular at present. The community are fully alive to the benefits of education. Dr Bell's trustees are required to be libe- ral. The result, consequently, must in time be highly salutary. Besides the academy, Dr Bell's trustees have opened three schools in the town, for the benefit of the industrious classes, at which education is to be had at the most moderate rates ; and in 16 FIFKSH1RK. cases where the parents are not able to pay these rates, it is to be had, as Dr Bell stipulates, upon making proper application, for nothing. There are, in addition, to all this, four female schools, and one promiscuous school, in the town. Of the female schools, one is un- der the patronage of the magistrates and ministers, as trustees of a fund of L. 500, left by the late Dr Gray of Paddington Green, Lon- don. And at Springfield, on the property of David Maitland M'Gill, Esq. of Rankeillor, there has been erected, and also endowed by him, a very handsome school for the benefit of that portion of the parish. Under these circumstances, there is not a child in the parish of five years of age and upwards, but is able to read, or is at school ac- quiring that power. And, with the attention that is paid to reli- gious instruction in the different schools, there is reason to believe, that, as the people have hitherto improved in- their conduct, and morals, and religious character, through the facility of acquiring education, — so, through the blessing of God, they will continue to improve. Literature. — There is one public library in the parish, founded in the year 1797, and which has increased gradually till now it contains upwards of 4000 volumes. Dr Gray also bequeathed his library to the subscribers, which contains many scarce and curious books. Its only regular source of increase is the annual subscriptions of the proprietors. There are two public reading-rooms, one frequented by the better classes, the other by the mechanics. There are five stationers' shops in the town. There are now two printing-presses. One of these, under the management of the late Mr Robert Tullis, had the credit of having sent out Hunter's immaculate editions of the classics. And there are two newspapers published weekly ;— one at the office of Mr Tullis, who was the first to publish a newspaper in Cupar, many years ago ; — another at the office of the Fifeshire Journal, recently set up. Charitable Institutions. — There is an alms-house, with a yard at- tached, containing 62 falls 9 ells Scotch measure. This is sup- posed to have been set apart for the benefit of the poor of the pa- rish, about the time that the church was removed from its former site, and placed where it now is in 1415. There is no exact trace of its original. It is in the management of the kirk-session, and, so far as their records go back, — to the year 1648, — it is found that it was under the same management as it is at present, kept in repair by the session, disposed of by the session for the accommodation CUPAR. 17 of their poor, and treated in all respects as if it were their sole and inalienable property. The house contains accommodation for ten or twelve paupers, living two together in the same apartment. And the yard is let every year for the behoof of the session. As there is a great want of room for burying in the present churchyard, the session have resolved to feu or let out the yards for burying-ground according to a plan which will reflect credit upon the place. In addition to this place of accommodation for the poor, which is of very ancient standing, the late David Knox, Esq. of London, who was a native of Cupar, has left the sum of L. 8000 Sterling, for the purpose of building and endowing an asylum for females above fifty years of age, who have seen better days. It is judiciously to be placed under trustees not officially connected with the town, and* according to the conditions expressed in Mr Knox's will, it pro- mises to be of great benefit The plan of the building has been already drawn out by an eminent architect in London, the site has been fixed upon, and, through the active benevolence of the testa- tor's sister, Miss Knox, the institution will, in all probability, be completed and occupied in the course of the present year. The trades' corporations were formerly the only friendly socie- ties that existed. Their funds, however, being now all squander- ed away, except those of the weaver trade, who have a piece of ground which they are feuing out for building, they contribute very little, if any thing at all, to their decayed members; and it is no un- common thing to find one who once plumed himself on the honour of some civic office, either becoming himself, or allowing his widow to become, a burden upon the funds of the session. Savings Bank. — There is a savings bank; but from the very low rate of interest which is allowed upon the money deposited in it, it meets with but little support. The deposits altogether do not ex- ceed L. 150. Poor and Parochial Funds* — The parish of Cupar presents still an engaging specimen of the working of the poor laws of Scotland. Great as the population is, there is no such thing as any regular assessment for the poor. They are supported, therefore, by the collections at the doors of the Established Church, — by a poors' box carried through the town on Saturdays, — by the due3 upon marriages and births, — by the exertions of a female society for the benefit of aged and decayed females, — by a fund of L. 450, left under the management of the town by the late Dr Gray already men- tioned, — and by voluntary charity, exercised by private individuals fife. B 18 FIFESHIRE. and families towards the well-deserving of their poorer neighbours. Twice during the last ten years, the heritors of the parish have been called upon to subscribe a sum in aid of the funds of the session, and at each of these times have subscribed L. 100, ac- cording to their valued rent Altogether, the sums distributed by the kirk-session from church collections and poors' box among the poor upon their roll amount yearly to L. 326, 9s. 0£d. or there- by. They make no distinction between the members of the church and dissenters, even though the latter do not contribute to their funds, and they allow to each pauper a sixpence or a shilling, or sometimes more, a week, according to their circumstances, making their distributions, in as far as they can, auxiliary to the industrious exertions of the individuals. The female society distributes about L. 35 annually, and the magistrates out of Gray's fund distribute L. 18 annually. The number of the poor upon the roll of the session who re- ceive a weekly allowance is 61. The number of those who re- ceive occasionally is 68. Those that receive from the female so- ciety amount to 30 females ; and those that receive from Gray's fund to 16 males and females. As many of those that receive from one fund receive also from another, the number of poor alto- gether may be rated as amounting to 150, and the total sum dis- tributed among them, as amounting to L.379, 9s. 0£d. The amount raised by church collections is L. 261, 9s. O^d. ; by the poors' box L. 65. As the kirk-session do not hold themselves liable for house rents, these are often raised by private application made by the needy themselves for subscription ; and there is generally a distribution of coals during the winter, procured by subscriptions or donations. Upon the whole, it may be said that they are well provided for. They are at the same time contented and industrious, and grate- ful, — very different from what the poor are found to be in parishes where the system of assessment is followed. Several cases have oc- curred of individuals refusing to take parochial aid, even when offer- ed and pressed upon them. And some have occurred, of individuals declining the allowance which has been for a time made to them, after they found themselves so improved in their circumstances as to be able to do without it. Prison. — There is a prison in the parish for the use of the town and county. The number of prisoners confined in it last year was 37. Of these, 15 were for debt, and 22 for stealing, assault, and such crimes as commonly occur in a populous country. The' com- CUPAR. 19 mitments before trial were 91. The prison is sufficiently secure, having been built upon the most secure plan within the last thirty years; but the accommodation that it affords is uniformly con- demned as most unworthy of the town and county. The lodging is bad, and reckoned unhealthy, — there is no room for the classifica- tion of criminals, — there is no chapel or place of worship attach- ed; and consequently, any attempt to reclaim or improve those that are once committed to it, becomes absolutely hopeless. The most unpractised being lodged in the same cells with the most hardened ; instead of a penitentiary, the prison may be said to be actually a school for confirming the one and ruining the other. Though the government and superintendence by a jailor acting under the Sheriff of the county and the Magistrates of the burgh be good, yet the construction and the defective accommodation destroy all their endeavours to soften or to reclaim its unhappy in- mates. Fairs. — These are numerous, as already stated. Inns. — Inns and alehouses within the burgh amount to 49; the number of alehouses in the country part of the parish amount to 4, — making a total of 53, besides several licenses granted to deal- ers in spirits, who do not keep public-houses. Fuel. — The fuel uniformly used is coal, which is to be had in great abundance from the southern and western parts of the county. The distance being six or ten miles, it is, however, not remarkably cheap. A railway would be of great service to the town, in furnish- ing the means of having this very essential necessary brought and laid down at a more reasonable rate. And as it is now in contem- plation to open a railway through Fife, it is to be hoped that the public will soon have the benefit. Cupar being nearly in the direct line of communication between Edinburgh and Dundee, it is hoped that the Royal Mail will be established to run by Cupar as soon as some water piers are formed on each side of the Frith of Forth, and which are now in contemplation. Miscellaneous Observations. When Buchanan wrote his history, he described St Andrews as " Fanum Andreae oppidulum memorabile propter bonarum ar- tium studia," and Cupar as the town or oppidulum " quo reliquis Fifani ad jus accipiendum conveniunt." The characters thus given to these towns they still retain. St Andrews is still the seat of learning; and, the local courts, and the public records of the county being all kept in Cupar, it is still the seat of the law and equity 20 FIFESH1RE. of the county, and there are no less than 28 procurators before the Sheriff-courts, who reside and carry on a respectable busi- ness, and hold a respectable rank in the town. Since the last Ac- count, the number of these procurators has increased from 12 to 28. Allowing to each of them 2 apprentices or clerks, there are no less than 84, all busied in directing the course of justice. Since the time of the last Account, a Sheriff-court has been esta- blished at Dunfermline for the western district. The principal change that has taken place in the town since the last account is the removal of the jail, and the town and county halls, so as to open up the streets and improve the thorough- fares. The consequence is, that Cupar wears now the appear- ance of a clean and comfortable English town. Being lighted up with gas, during the night it has a very attractive appearance. Its dimensions have been much extended by the suburbs called the Brae-heads, New Town, and Lebanon. The principal change that has taken place in the parish is the improvement of the cross roads, which are now, with few exceptions, kept like turnpikes. The villages of Springfield and Glaidney have also been much extended since last Account, and are still in- creasing. There have been three handsome stone bridges thrown over the Eden tolncrease the communication betwixt the north and south sides. And should the railway that is now talked of be car- ried through, it seems impossible to conceive the advantages that would accrue to the town of Cupar and the neighbourhood. The people are much the same in character as they were forty years ago, — greatly influenced by politics, and very excitable, but upon the whole far more temperate and reasonable than in many other places. March 1836. PARISH OF COLLESSIE. PRESBYTERY OF CUPAR, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. JOHN MACFARLANE, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries — Extent. — This parish is bounded on the north by Abdie ; on the south, by Kettle ; on the east, by Monimail ; and on the west, by Auchtermuchty. The village is easily accessible from any quarter, being near the place where the two roads cross each other by which the parish is intersected, — the one leading from Newburgh to Kirkaldy ; the other from Cupar to Kinross. The points of the parish most distant from each other, and which are between north-west and south-east, include a space of eight miles. The average breadth of the parish is about four miles. Name. — Collessie has always been the name of this parish. Al- though, from a few relics of antiquity that have been found in the neighbourhood, but principally, I believe, from the resemblance between the word and the Roman Colosseum, a classic origin has been claimed for it, it may with more truth be referred to a Gae- lic source. The name is a compound Gaelic word, signifying, the bottom of a glen. This derivation is corroborated by the fact, that it is exactly descriptive of the situation of the village which has given name to the whole parish. Soil, Sfc. — There is great variety in the quality of the soil. The northern and north-west parts of the parish are by far the most fertile. In these districts, there is a good deep sharp soil, principally upon a whinstone bottom. From the position of the ground, too, situat- ed upon the sloping sides of the hill* that form the northern boundary of the parish, it has a good southern exposure ; and, be- ing in a high state of cultivation, it produces early and excellent crops. The eight farms of Hall-hill, Collessie-mill, Corn-hill, Meadow-wells, Cold-wells, Weddersbie, Wester Rossie, and Lum- quhat, including in all about 1560 Scotch acres, present from the road to Auchtermuchty an appearance of considerable natural beauty, and great agricultural skill and industry. Although this 22 FIFESHIRE. may be described as the best part of the parish as to depth and fer- tility of soil, there are some fields of good ground both for tillage and pasturage, besides what have been mentioned, upon the properties of Rossie and Kinloch. Upon the estates of Rankeilour, Ramor- nie, and Pitlair, too, as well as belonging to the farms of Drumten- nant upon the banks of the Eden, and the Bowhouse and Shields of Lathrisk in the eastern and southern districts*, there are some parts scarcely inferior in soil and cultivation. Towards the centre and southern district of the parish, however, the soil for the most part becomes light and sandy. It is occupied to the extent of some miles by fir plantations. Much of the ground here does not seem capable of being turned to better account. Some recent attempts, at least, to clear and cultivate it have prov- ed unsuccessful. The wood, however, is of considerable value. Besides the country purposes to which it is applicable in fencing, and even roofing and flooring, large quantities of it are shipped from the port of Newburgh to Newcastle and other parts of Eng- land for planks and coal-props. When full grown it may bring from L. 40 to L. 50 ; when cut down at half-growth, it may be worth at the rate of about L. 20 per Scotch acre. The climate, which, in consequence of extensive draining and enclosure, and an advancing state of cultivation, has of late years been greatly improved, is dry and healthful. There are no dis- tempers or epidemics peculiar to the parish. Many instances of great age having been attained by the parishioners might be ad- duced in evidence of the salubrity of our atmosphere. There is at present an elder in the parish, who is in church every Sabbath, and who was born in the year 1745. Cases of no remote date are upon record, of parishioners having lived above a hundred years. Hydrography. — Since the draining of Rossie Loch, which was partially done in 1740, and more perfectly accomplished at a sub- sequent period, there is no lake worthy of notice in the parish. That was once, indeed, the largest sheet of water in the county, abounding in perch and pike. There are several rivulets that -di- versify and enliven the landscape; among which, one of the most considerable is the water of Keilour, which forms the eastern boundary of the parish, dividing it from • Monimail. The only stream we have, entitled to the name of a river, is the Eden, which gives its designation to the strath, and glides with noiseless current through the central vale or How of Fife. This river runs about three miles along the southern boundary of the parish, dividing it o COLLESSIE. 23 from that of Kettle. Even this stream is not more than twenty-five feet broad in any part of its course along the confines of the pa- rish ; nor does it become considerable till it reaches the Guard Bridge in the parish of St Andrews, where it forms an estuary of the German Ocean. Geology. — As no mines of any description are wrought in this parish, and no considerable portion of the strata or formation of its rocks is exposed to view, it presents no feature of interest to the eye of the geologist. The only organic remains of any consequence of which I have heard being found in the parish, were the large branching horns and almost the entire skeleton of an elk of great size, which were dug up a few years ago in the marl pits of Pit- lair, in the eastern part of the parish. At the same place were found several segments of the oak, denoting great circumference and corresponding length in the trees of which they had formed a part ; probably a portion of the primeval timber that grew in the district, and so few traces of which are now to be found. There is excellent whin or greenstone open in the parish ; it is much used for building, for which purpose it is at once durable and ornamental. Sandstone has also been exposed on the proper- ty of Rankeilour, though not wrought to any considerable extent. Great quantities of marl too, both shell and clay, are found in the parish. It was formerly much used, and some of it even shipped to the Carse of Gowrie. It is now little in demand, except for top- dressing and forming compounds for grass. It may perhaps have been formerly applied in too large quantities, or the cropping may have been too severe after it. Botany. — I have been kindly furnished by one of the heritors with the following notice of the rarer plants found in the parish. It may be proper, however, to mention, in reference to this enu- meration, that, although part of the banks of the Black Loch are in this parish, the loch itself lies in the adjoining parish of Abdie. There is nothing in this parish which would, a priori, seem to indicate a great variety in its botany ; but, when more accurately viewed, we find that, being bounded by water on the north and south, and occupied in the centre by a wood of several miles in extent, in which there are several large marshes, few parishes are in this re- spect more favourably situated. A very brief view of the rare plants to be found within it will not disappoint the botanist. The Hippuris is found at Monkstown, and near the edges of the Black Loch ; the Scirpus sylvaticw is found on Edensmuir, and 24 F1FESH1RK. the Eriophorum polystachion is common there and in the other marshes of the district ; the Alopecurus geniculates, var. 7. is found at Lawfield ; the Agrostis alba, var. £. (the Fiorin grass) on the banks of the Eden; the Glyceria Jluitans is not uncommon, and is noticed here as forming the chief grass in a meadow at the north end of the Black Loch ; the Poa nemoralis grows in patches on Edensmuir ; the Triodia decumbent is to be found on the farm of Birns; the Lolium temulentum is occasionally met with. It is supposed the intoxicating and noxious effects of its weeds is exagge- rated. The smooth variety of the Scabiosa arvensis, a plant which, Sir James Smith says, has never been seen in England, grows on Ballomill. The Potamogeton lanceolatum, var. |3. (without any floating leaves) grows on the Black Loch ; and P. pusillum in the old bed of the Eden near Pitlessie Bridge, and it is not uncommon in the district The minute Radiola millegrana is found on Edens- muir, on those places overflowed in winter. The Cynoglossum of- ficinale is found near Trafalgar. The Echium vulgare is only men- tioned, because dangerous to bees, as it tears their wings, and should be eradicated by each bee-master. The Solatium dulcamara, sup- posed by Hooker to be rare in Scotland, grows in many places of the district ; it grows on the banks of the Eden, on the farm of Lawfield. The Gentiana campestris grows at Daftmill and near Ramornie. The poisonous Conium maculatum is to be found near Trafalgar. The Sambucus Ebulus grows near Kinloch, where it was found by the late Dr Malcolm. The beautiful Drosera ro- tundifolia is found plentifully in the marshes of Edensmuir, and a dead fly is not unfrequent in its leaves. Luciola congesta (Luzula congesta, Hooker,) is found near Ramornie. The Rumex sangui- neus grows near Melville. The R. acutus grows in many places ; it is used by the country people as a vulnerary. The CaUuna vul- garis and Erica tetralix and cinerea are all occasionally found with white flowers ; and the variety of JB. cinerea, named by Loddiges E. cinerea, also purpurea, grows in considerable quantity near Ra- mornie. The Polygonum aviculare is noticed, because horses are particularly fond of it, and it will grow on the poorest soils. The Pyrola minor is the only Pyrola as yet found in the parish ; it grows on many places of Edensmuir. Arenaria rubra grows on Hetherinch. The Sedum Telephium on Ballomill, and near the Eden. A white flowering variety of Lychnis Flas-Cuculi is not un- common. The Cerastium aquaticum is rare in this part of the country. A single plant of it was found near Pitlessie dam-dike. COLLESSIE. 25 The Lythrum salicaria grows on Hetherinch, on the banks of the Eden. The Reseda lutea has been found on Ballomill. The Spircea Filipendula grows on the farm of Birns ; — this beautiful plant is only found in two other places in the county, viz. North Queensferry and Aberdour. The Tormentilla reptans has been found in the willow grounds near Ramornie. The beautiful Nym- phaa alba and Nuphar lutea are found abundantly in the Blaek Loch ; the latter also grows in the river Eden, near Pitlessie Bridge. The Ranunculus Flammula, var. d. is very common in Edensmuir. The R. auricomus is met with in Melville plantations. The Trol- lius Europeans (the Luckan gowan of Allan Ramsay) grows in con- siderable quantity on Ballomill. The Mentha viridis 9 not yet no- ticed as a native of Scotland, grows betwixt Collessie and Kinloch. As it has been met with at two other places within the county, it seems an undoubted native. The Galeopsis versicolor is plentiful in the parish. The Thymus serpyllum, var. y. grows on Edensmuir. The Digitalis purpurea var. fiore aJbo is found on Peterhead, where the Camelina sativa has also been found growing. The Nasturtium terrestre is found at a pond near the Earl of Leven's cottages, and on the edges of the Black Loch. The Barbarea vulgaris grows near Collessie, on the burn. The Erodium cicu- tarium, both with pink and white flowers, is pretty common ; also the beautful Geranium pratense is found near Pitlessie Bridge. The Malva moschata grows near Lumquhat The Genista anglica grows plentifully on Edensmuir and near Ramornie. The beauti- ful AnthyUis vulneraria will be found near the road betwixt Hether- inch and Daftmill. The Trifolium officinale has been found on Lawfield. The Leontodon palustre is found occasionally in the marshes. The Hieracium murorum is found on the walls. The H. sylvaticum is frequent in the woods. The Cichorium Intybus grows at Daftmill, and is not uncommon in the district. The Bi- dens tripartita grows on Drumtennant, and at the south end of the Black Loch. The Gnaphalium diotcum, uliginosum 9 and germa- nicum grow on Edensmuir. The Senecio lividus and sylvaticus grow in the parish ; the former sparingly, the latter abundantly. These specie3 are perfectly distinct, and cannot be mistaken. The S. aquaticum is also to be found. The Orchis bifolia grows near Monkstown ; the O. mascula on Lawfield ; the O. latijblia, ma' eulata, and Conopsea on Edensmuir. The Sparganium simplex grows on the edges of the Black Loch only 2 or 3 inches high ; while i in Pitlessie dam it has leaves 6 or 8 feet long. There is a con- } 26 FIFESHIRE. siderable number of Carices on Edensmuir : the C. pulicaris grows near Ramornie ; the C. stellvlata, curta, pendula, Jlava, pracox, piluligercL) paludosa, and riparia on Edensmuir ; while the C. hirta grows near the Black Loch. The C. armaria, so common on the sea coast, is found on the lands of Ramornie, running among the sand at a distance of ten miles from the sea. Littorella lacus- tris grows round the Black Loch. The Poterium sanyuisorba was found near Birns farm. The Betula alba, var. 0. grows at Rankeilour, while the Pinus sylvestris, either planted or native, covers the lands of Edensmuir. Besides the cultivated willows, such as the Triandra, fragilis, decipiens, Rwselliana, rubra, cine- rea, mminalis, and alba; the repens, aquatica, and caprea are found in their native situations. Myrica Gale grows abundantly in the marsh at Muirside. The Aspidium Oreopteris is found on Edensmuir, along with the Blechnum boreale and the Lycopodium clavatum. Botrychium lunaria is found on the pastures of Ballo- mill. It would be improper here to enter the names of the other cryptogamic plants, but it may be mentioned that it is supposed there is no parish in Scotland where there is an equal number of agarics ; 125 species were gathered previous to the dry summer in 1826. They have not been so numerous since that year ; but many sorts which had not been seen for years have again made their ap- pearance, so that it is probable they will now rather exceed than fall short of that number. II. — Civil History. Pictures. — Under this head it may be mentioned, that there is in the possession of Charles Kinnear, Esq. of Kinloch, three original paintings by our countryman Wilkie. They are interesting not only as some of the earliest productions of his genius, but as indicating by their history, the good feelings of his heart They were painted for the late Mr Kinnear, and presented to him by the artist, in testi- mony of the kindness and friendship he experienced at Kinloch in early life, and on this account are much valued by the family. They are in that peculiar style of his art in which he has acquired the greatest celebrity. It was by the largest of these pictures, indeed, that he first came into notice. The subject is " Pitlessie fair," con- taining upwards of 150 figures, the labour of a year. The size is 3 feet 9 inches by 2 feet. The grouping is admirable. The princi- pal figures in the piece are characters who were well known in the neighbourhood during the early life of the artist, which gives a COLLESSIE. 27 greater interest and value to his painting as a record of the times. It is considered equal in merit to some of the more recent and most admired productions of his pencil Eminent Men. — Among the eminent characters connected with this parish, is the distinguished courtier Sir James Melville, who figured during the reign of Mary Queen of Scots, and who, according to bis own relation, performed so* many feats of dexterous diplomacy between the rival queens of Scotland and England. He was. proprie- tor of the estate of Hall-hill. This property, it appears, originally belonged to Henry Balnaves, who, in 1542, was Deputy- Keeper of the Privy- Seal, and the following year, Secretary- Depute. The lands of Hall-hill were by him disposed of to Sir James Melville, who was third son to Sir John Melville of Raitb, one of the early promoters of the Reformed faith. The property continued in his family till the reign of Charles IL, when it was purchased by the Earl of Melville. No trace of the house now remains, and the ground where it stood forms part of the present enclosures of Melville.* The celebrated Dr Hugh Blair commenced his ministry in this parish, to the pastoral charge of which he was ordained on the 23d September in the year 1742. I have in my possession a list of the names of the ministers of the parish as far back as 1578. There have been fifteen ministers since that year, previous to the present incumbent, of whom it appears that four were removed to other charges. One, Mr John Ogilvie, was ejected during the attempt to establish Episcopacy in Scotland before the Revolution of 1688; and the rest seem to have died in the parish. Antiquities. — There are several antiquities in the parish as to * The family burying-ground of Sir James is in the churchyard of Collessie, upon one of the walls of which the following inscription can still be decyphered, though much obliterated by the hand of time. 1609. Te * loadin * pilgrims * passing * langs . this • way, Paus * on * your * fall, * and * your * offences • past. Hou * your • frail * flesh, * first * formit * of ' the * clay. In * dust * mon * be * dissolvit • at - the * last * Repent * amend * on - Christ * the * burden • cast . Of • your • sad • sinnes • who • can • your • savls • refresh • Syne * raise * from • grave * to * gloir • your * grislie * flesh * Defyle • not • Christ's • kirk • with • your • carion • A * solemn • sait * for * God's * service * prepar'd * For * praier ; * preaching * and * communion • Your * byrial * should * be * in * the * kirk * yard On • your • uprysing • set • your • great • regard • When • savll • and ■ body • joyncs • with • joy • to • ring • In • Heaven * for * ay • with • Christ * our * head • and * king * 28 FIFESH1RE. which no very certain information is possessed, but which might fur- nish interesting subject of investigation to those who devote them- selves to such inquiries. One of the most prominent of our me- morials of past times is a mound, consisting of a cairn of stones, a short distance south of the village of Collessie, usually called the Gash-hill. It is about twelve feet above the level of the ground. It has been supposed to be the remains of a Roman station. It consists of loose stones, now grown over with turf. A few years ago a sword, about eighteen inches in length, with one edge, and so formed that it might be used either for cutting or thrusting, but much corroded by time, was dug up from among the stones. Some fragments, too, of human bones were found here, enclosed by a few large flat stones. From their appearance, position, and mixed state, and their having evidently been subjected to the action of fire, it would require less effort of fancy, than antiquarians sometimes exert, to suppose these remains to have consisted of what the Ro- mans called the o&silegium, or gathering up of the bones, after the body was burnt. About a quarter of a mile east of the village, and within the grounds of Melville, there is one of those large whinstones placed on its end, so frequently seen in other parts of the country. It is upwards of nine feet above the ground, and about six feet in cir- cumference. This stone is near the spot where the house of Hall- hill stood, but probably of much greater antiquity. Tradition marks two spots near the hamlet of Trafalgar, and at about equal distances to the east and the west of the inn known by that name, as the sites of two ancient military forts, which were probably intended to secure the pass leading from Newburgh to the central part of Fife. This must have been a station of great importance in times of war, as, with the exception of one other pass, it formed the only access to the interior of the county from the north. The loch that lies upon the road between this place and Newburgh has in consequence received the name of Lindores, (Linne-doris) the water of the pass. The eastern fort was called Agabatha, or marsh-field castle. This name was appropriate to its situation, as, within the last forty years, the fields adjoining the little eminence called a castle, were a complete marsh, although now under cultivation. The eminence itself was surrounded by a ditch or moat, forming in a remote age the most effective kind of fortification. Several relics of antiquity have been found at this place. Among others a quern or hand- COLLBSSIE. 29 mill of mica slate, a mineral not belonging to Fife. A number of coins also, belonging to the reign of Edward I. of England, were here turned up by the plough. They are the coinage of different towns, as London, Canterbury, and York, but are evidently all of the same reign* The western fort is called the Maiden Castle. A clump of trees planted by the late proprietor, Mr Thomson, points out its situa- tion. The tradition as to the origin of this name is, that during a siege laid to this station, the governor died, and that his daugh- ter, concealing the event, gave the necessary orders in his name, and that the castle thus defended held out till the enemy was obliged to retire. There is scarcely any thing in the external ap- pearance of the grounds in either of these places that would ar- rest the attention of an observer unacquainted with these tradi- tions. But in the fields adjoining, and particularly in the inter- vening space between these two stations, there are many traces, in the human bones, stone coffins and urns, which from time to time have been dug up, — that point out this place to have been, at a re- mote period, the scene of battles and of sepulture. Among the most entire of these remains may be mentioned two urns, said to be perfect specimens of the ancient Celtic urn, for de- positing the ashes of the dead. One of these, still to be seen at Kinloch, is made of bluish clay. Its height is about eighteen inches, and its diameter at the widest part about fifteen inches, like a bee's cap, a little more conical. It was found at the depth of a foot below the surface, in an inverted position, on a flat slab of stone, and enclosing several human bones which have been partial- ly burnt The other urn, which has been carried away in frag- ments by different visitors, was in every respect similar, only its dimensions, somewhat smaller than that described.* • From its proximity to Falkland, the frequent residence of James VI. this parish is recorded to hare been the scene of some of the eccentric feats and munificent acts of that facetious prince. The following is one of the most authentic. It is related that in the disguise, which he often assumed, of a poor travelling man, he knocked one evening at the door of the miller's house of Ballooiili. After some little difficul- ty he obtained quarters for the night. He joined the circle round the miller's fire- side, and partook of their social glee, as well as of their homely cheer. The miller's frank and honest bearing gained upon the good opinion of the King, bis hospitality and kindness increasing as he became more intimate with the stranger. In the morn- ing, accompanying his unknown guest in familiar converse to the extremity of the farm, they were met, according to previous appointment, by the royal guards. Hie miller then saw with astonishment that he had had the honour of entertaining the . King. At parting, to reward his hospitality, and at the same time to try his know- ledge of fractions, his Majesty asked the miller, whether he would have the fourth part, or the eighth part, or the sixteenth part of the lands on which they stood. The miller pondered a little a question so important, and said to himself, to ask the sax- 30 F1FESHIRE. III. — Population. It appears from the account of this parish, published in the for- mer Statistical Account, that in the year 1791, the population was 949 souls. By the last census of 1831, the population amount- ed to 1162, viz. 559 males, and 603 females. The increase is to be referred to the steadily advancing prosperity and improve- ment of the country. Besides the village of Collessie, which con- tains 180 inhabitants, there are several other villages and ham- lets in the parish. Three of these are of recent erection, viz, Gifferton, Edenston, and Monkston. The houses of which they are formed are well arranged, neat, and comfortable. That a greater increase of the population has not taken place in conse- quence of the recent erection of these villages, is accounted for by the almost entire removal of the village of Kinloch, which, not many years ago, was the largest in the parish, containing 191 in- habitants. A considerable number of the families formerly resid- ing there now occupy Monkston. This village consists of twenty- four houses forming one line, with an interval of twelve feet between every four houses, so that the whole is divided into six squares. The place originally called Monks-moss takes its name from the district where it is situated, having been granted to the monks of St Mary's at Lindores Abbey to supply them with heather and moss for fuel. Number of families in the parish, ... 247 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 73 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 104 Upwards of 100 of the families live in the several villages, the rest in the country part of the parish. The yearly average, as ap- pears from the sessional books, which have recently been kept with considerable accuracy, is, for the last seven years, of births, 18; of deaths, 14 ; of marriages, 9. Resident Land-owners. — This parish has the advantage of the permanent residence of most of its landed proprietors. To begin at the western extremity : — John Cheape, Esq. of Rossie ; Miss Arnot of Lochie Head ; Charles Kinnear, Esq. of Kinloch ; Wil- liam Walker, Esq. of Pitlair ; D. Maitland Makgill, Esq. of Ran- keilour ; of whom the two last mentioned gentlemen are also elders in the parish, — all reside upon their estates. teenth part wud be o'er greedy, to ask the fourth part would be cheat in mysell, I'll ] e'en strike between the twa and ask the aught. In consequence of this decision the eighth part of the lands of Ballomill was measured off to him, which long remained in the miller's family. The description in the title deed still runs " All and whole of the one-eighth part of the lands of Ballomill." The royal charter by which it was conveyed is still preserved in the parish. COLLESSIE. 31 So many of the heritors permanently resident, not only form a pleasant neighbourhood, but their residence exerts a very favour- able influence upon the condition and moral character of the whole population. Anxious as the gentlemen of the parish are to give employment to the labouring-classes, and to relieve the necessities of the poor, their liberality, as will appear in a subsequent part of this account, is of great benefit to the parish. And it may be said of the people at large, that they enjoy, in a very considerable de- gree, the comforts and advantages of society. During the last three years there have been 2 illegitimate births. IV. — Industry. Manufactures* — There are no manufactories or public works in this parish. Yet more than a hundred families are supported by hand- loom weaving, the materials beingsupplied by agents, and the manu- factured goods transmitted by them to Glasgow, Dundee, and Aber- deen. It requires great industry to enable a weaver to make 9s. a- week. Females are also employed in this occupation, whose earn- ings are scarcely so good. Agriculture. — The number of acres, imperial measure, cultivated or occasionally in tillage, is about 5000. There may be between 200 and 800 imperial acres of marshy and barren land lying continually waste, almost the whole of which might be improved for pasture, or planted to advantage. The only common in the parish, viz. Edens- muir and Monks-moss, was divided by Adam Holland, Esq. advo- cate, as arbiter, about forty years ago. Plantations. — The greater part of that common, extending in all to 967 imperial acres, has been planted, chiefly in fir. Weddersbie hill, also, extending to upwards of 200 imperial acres, was planted upwards of twenty years ago by William Johnston, Esq. of Lathrisk, the proprietor. The plantations in the neighbourhood of the man- sions in the parish extend to 60 or 70 acres, — so that the total wood- land may be about 1237 imperial acres. In Edensmuir and Monks-moss the wood planted is chiefly fir, too generally of a soft yellow pine, by mistake, instead of the Scotch fir. This great forest did not, in due time, receive judicious pe- riodical thinnings, which, from the lightness of the soil, it particu- larly required. It is, consequently in many places, not in a thriv- i ing state, and the trees will not reach above two-thirds of the size to which they might otherwise have attained. Upwards of twenty years ago, a large fir plantation on the bor- ders of the common, belonging to the Earl of Leven and Melville, 32 FIFESHIBE. suddenly died, when come to about two-thirds of its growth. The decay was so rapid that little value was secured. Numbers of in- sects were found on the trees. This extraordinary effect is pro- bably to be referred to the want of proper thinning, the poor soil being unable to sustain so large a crop. The space once occupied by this plantation still retains the name of the " Dead Wood." In the thriving plantation of Weddersbie hill, there is, along with the fir in the better parts of the soil, a judicious admixture of larch and the ordinary forest trees. In planting Edensmuir, the genuine Scotch fir ought to be introduced ; and everywhere except on the poorest parts of the soil, an admixture ought to be supplied of larch and of the hardy species of forest trees. Rent — The rent of arable land in the parish varies according to its quality, from 10s. to L. 2, 10s. per Scotch acre. Stock. — The Fifeshire breed of black cattle is reared. It is much crossed with various breeds, chiefly, however, with the short-horned or Teeswater, and with the Angus polled breed. More attention should be given to preserving and propagating the pure breed of the county. It combines in a great degree the hardiness of the Highland with the size of the southern breeds. Husbandry. — The mode of farming pursued in the parish is si* milar to that of the district at large. The common duration of leases is nineteen years. And the rents are now generally fixed, partly in money and partly in grain, according to the fiars of the county. The farm-buildings are generally good and commodious, and the fields for the most part enclosed with stone dikes or thorn hedges. Improvements. — Besides that this parish, in common with the coun- try at large, advances progressively in agricultural improvement, seve- ral extensive undertakings have been executed which have proved very beneficial. One of these was the embankment of the Eden by the late Mr Johnstone of Lathrisk, the father of the present proprie- tor. That river flowing through a level country, very often over- flowed its banks, and considerably injured the grounds on either side by washing away the soil. To prevent this, Mr Johnstone caused a spacious canal to be made for the water, 12 feet wide at the bottom and 30 feet at the top, secured on the sides by em- bankments and hedges, which include a space 70 feet in breadth, so that in time of a flood there is sufficient space for containing the water, and preventing its overflowing and damaging the adja- cent grounds. COLLESSIE* 33 Extensive improvements have also been effected upon the flat lands of Rankeilour- Makgill, and Pitlair. A quantity of ground has here been reclaimed from marsh, by the spirited improve- ments of the late Charles Maitland, Esq. of Rankeilour. In ac- complishing this, he deepened the water of Keilour, to give greater descent to his drainage. So beneficial has been the effect of his operations in this neighbourhood, that it is difficult now to believe the tradition, that in 1745, when the horses at Rankeilour were seized for the use of the Pretender's army, those of Pitlair remain- ed secure, the Highlanders being unwilling to approach it by the single road which led to it through the surrounding morass. In connection with these improvements, Mr Maitland worked marl on Pitlair, to the extent of 83,010 bolls fine, and 28,721 black do., which he used largely for his own estate, and sold besides to the surrounding landlords, to the value of L. 1461, lis. O^cL Draining of Rossie Loch, §*c. — But the most remarkable of all the improvements effected in the parish was the draining of Rossie Loch. The first attempt to accomplish this object was made in 1740. Notwithstanding the means then used, however, the ground was still left a kind of morass in summer, and almost covered with water in winter. It continued in this unsatisfac- tory state till 1805-1806, when Captain Cheape, the present proprietor, deepened and extended the drains, leading off the water to the Eden, at an expense of L. 3000. The land was thus brought into a comparatively dry state. About 250 acres of it have been made capable of producing good crops of grain, although about 40 acres in the middle of the former loch still remain marshy, producing only natural hay. In carrying for- ward his operations, Captain Cheape found it very advantageous occasionally to pasture the reclaimed fields with sheep. They consolidated the land, and prepared it for the plough, without breaking the surface, as heavier cattle must have done. The ex- tensive drainage which has been effected by the active and intel- ligent proprietor of Rossie has at once improved and beautified his estate, and greatly promoted the healthfulness of the neigh- bourhood. The system of draining has not only been successfully employ- ed upon the lands of Rossie, but upon the estate of Kinloch and other adjacent districts. It might be suggested, however, that, although little remains to be done in reclaiming, much might still fife. c 34 FIFESHIRE. be effected in improving the more retentive soils, by means of the system of furrow or frequent drainage. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain, 9000 quarters, . . . . L. 13*500 Potatoes, turnips, &c 6000 tons, ..... 5000 Hay, 1550 tons, . . . • • • 8875 Dressed flax, 4 or 5 tons, ... . 150 Land in pasture, 9000 or 10,000 acres of various qualities and some wood pasture, at L. 3 per cow or full-grown ox grazed, and 7s. per ewe or full-grown sheep pastured, ..... 1800 Gardens, ........ 120 Thinnings of plantations, ...... 300 I- 24,745 Agricultural Society. — A society, formed with the view of giving encouragement to the raising of live-stock and other agricultural produce, holds its meetings in this parish. It is one of the oldest associations for this purpose in the county. Its annual meeting, known by the name of the Trafalgar show, is held on the 21st of Oc- tober, the anniversary of the great victory of Trafalgar. The system of sweepstakes has lately been substituted for the premiums for- merly given by the society; and the competition excited, in improv- ing the breed of stock, and introducing improved seeds, is consi- derable. The Chevalier barley and the Italian rye-grass were lately brought into general notice in this district, by means of this society. It is supported by the neighbouring landed proprietors, and a considerable body of the tenantry. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — As the parish is situated upon the road between Cupar and Auchtermuchty, our means of communica- tion are easy and direct There is a runner between these towns every day, who leaves letters and parcels at Trafalgar inn, and at the lodges of the mansions upon the road. No coach now passes through the parish ; the nearest point at which a public conveyance can be got is three miles distant from Collessie. We are six miles from the New Inn, where coaches to and from Edinburgh, Dundee, and Aberdeen, pass three times a-day. The projected railway, for connecting the Forth and Tay, will run through the centre of the parish. There are carriers almost every day to various parts of the country, and one regularly twice a week between Cupar and Auchtermuchty. Ecclesiastical State. — The great majority of the people are mem- bers of the Established Church. There is no dissenting meeting- COLLESSIE. 35 house of any description in the parish ; but there are about 80 families of dissenters, who go to their several places of worship in adjoining parishes. There are 135 male heads of families upon the parochial roll, who have the right of exercising the veto, in conformity with the recent enactment of the General Assembly, among whom are included all the heritors, and every farmer in the parish. There are 330 communicants in the Established Church, and 8 elders. The manse is a very comfortable and commodious house, much improved and enlarged, — almost, indeed, renewed within the last fourteen years. If, for the personal comfort of the minister and his family, it is, like many of the manses in Fife, too much in the village, he has the advantage at least of being near the scene of his ministerial labours. The glebe is of not more than the le- gal size, but the land is of good quality. The stipend is 15 chal- ders of grain, half meal, and half barley, a small sum for vicarage and grass money, with the usual allowance for communion ele- ments. The last augmentation was granted in 1822. There is a considerable amount of unexhausted teind. The church is an exceedingly uncomfortable and ill-adapted structure. It is one of the few remaining long and narrow build- ings, that seem to have been common in the country in Ro- man Catholic times. It is 75 feet long, by 25 broad. The pul- pit is in the middle, and there are galleries to the right and left of it. Some of the old seats that remain bear the date of the fifteenth century. From its original situation, or by the accumu- lation of graves in the church-yard in which it stands, it is sunk some feet below the level of the ground, and is in the winter sea- son cold and damp in the extreme. It cannot, at the utmost, be seated for more than 400 hearers ; and, besides being too small for the po- pulation of the parish, it is irremediably defective in form, and can by no repair be rendered commodious or comfortable. There is no remedy but in a new one, which it is hoped will soon be erected. Poor.— The poor of the parish are amply supported by the volun- tary collections made at the church doors. Our heritors for the most part being resident, and such of them as are not so occasionally coming to church, or sending their contributions, — although there is no fund or vested property for charitable purposes, — the kirk-ses- sion has been able, for the last three years, during the incumbency of the present minister, to meet, from the source alluded to, the exigencies of the poor. There is a prevailing opinion of the 36 F1FESHIRE. advantages to all parties attending this mode of parochial admi- nistration. The number of stated pensioners on the poors' roll is eleven, — 3 men and 8 women. The highest allowance is 10s. a month, — the lowest to any pensioner in the parish, 4s. The average sum collected yearly for the last three years is L. 58. This includes sums collected upon sacramental occasions twice a- year, and which, for the most part, are appropriated to the tem- porary relief of such of the poor as are not regular pensioners. It includes also the amount of annual collections made upon the first Sabbath of every year, being at an average L. 7 for coals to the poor. The kirk-session have thus been able to distribute upwards of thirty cart loads of coals annually, the heritors and farmers, in addition to their collections, giving the carriage free. Societies for Religious purposes. — Besides these collections for the temporal necessities of the poor, there is collected at the church door, for religious purposes, from L. 12 to L. 15 annually. The money thus raised for promoting Christian objects constitutes the funds of a parochial society, which are placed at the disposal of a committee, consisting of the kirk-session, ex officio, and three other members of the congregation, annually elected. And these funds have been principally appropriated to the support of insti- tutions connected with the Established Church. Education. — The facilities for education in the parish are con- siderable. There is the parochial school, where the usual branches are taught. It is attended, at an average, by 65 scholars. The schoolmaster has the maximum salary ; a comfortable and well-si- tuated house and garden. His fees may amount to L. 23 per an- num : he has also about L. 5 a-year from other sources. There is also a female school, a neat and well adapted building in the cot- tage style, near Collessie village, erected at the expense of the Mel- ville family, and partly endowed. It is attended by 50 girls, and a few boys under six years of age They are not only well in- structed in the elementary branches of general education, but the girls are taught knitting and needlework in its several branches, and, what is scarcely less important, are trained to habits of order and exactness. Our only other school is a small one at Monkston, attended by about 25 scholars, the teacher of which is wholly dependent on the fees of his pupils, and the voluntary kind- ness of his employers. Some endowment for a school in this part of the parish would be highly desirable. The number of children, in all, receiving a public education, is 140, being about MONIMAIL. 37 1 to 8£ of the whole population. A Sabbath school, well attend- ed by the children, and also by many of their parents, is taught at Collessie ; one at Rankeilour, and another at Monkston. We have a Parochial Juvenile and Adult Library, containing 370 well se- lected volumes. March 1836. PARISH OF MONIMAIL. PRE8BYTERY OF CUPAR, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. JAMES BRODIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of this parish is spelt in several different ways ; but appears to have been the same in pronunciation from time immemorial. The first part of the word seems to be derived from the Celtic word Man or Monath, a hill ; while the latter part may be either mile, a mile ; or meal, honey ; or meille, a mill. Extent, Boundaries. — The parish forms an irregular oval, of which the extreme length is 6 miles, and the extreme breadth 5 ; and con- tains about 16 square miles. It is entirely inland ; and is bounded on the north and east by the parishes of Abdie, Dunbog, Moonzie, and Cupar; and on the south and west by Cults and Collessie. The northern part of the parish consists of a range of whinstone hills, of which the Mount Hill is the highest The southern part is more level, being a portion of the hollow which occupies the centre of Fifeshire. Meteorology, fyc — The general temperature of the atmosphere, as ascertained by a register kept at Melville House, in which the greatest heat of each day, and greatest cold of each night, are re- gularly noted, is as under : Jan. Feb. Mar. Ap. May. June. July. Aug, Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. 1833, 37.1 38.5 40.8 45.3 548 52.8 59 56.1 5&4 49.3 38.5 38.1 1834, 31.3 38 38.5 43 55.1 56.4 59.6 1835, 35.2 38.8 40.5 46.1 49.3 55.2 57.2 58.3 50.6 43.1 39.1 35.5 Generally speaking the climate is mild. The hills to the north and east break the force of the wind from these quarters, while the abundance of plantations add to the warmth, as well as to the beauty of the district The lower part of the parish was formerly sub- 38 FIFESHIRE. ject to damps and hoar frosts ; but, by means of thorough drain- ing, these evils have been almost entirely removed. In conse- quence of its dry and sheltered situation, it is considered by medi- cal men as peculiarly healthy. Agues are unknown, and fevers occur but seldom, and are generally milder in their character than in other places. Hydrography. — There are several rivulets in the parish, all of which fall into the river Eden. There is only one of them of such a size as to turn a mill-wheel without the aid of a dam. In some places, owing to the porous nature of the subsoil, the supply of water is deficient ; but in general the springs are abundant, and the water good, without any trace of mineral impregnation. Geology. — The northern half of the parish consists of a mass of whinstone, full of rents, speedily yielding to the action of the at- mosphere, and, consequently, unfit for building. There are, how- ever, isolated portions of a harder and more durable nature* In some places, agates are found imbedded in the rock* Besides these portions, which seem to have been formed at the same time as the softer rock by which they are surrounded, there are two contigu- ous veins, or seams, of a more recent formation, running nearly east and west for many miles. The one to the north is a very tough, heavy, and coarse-grained stone, and varies in thickness from 15 to 40 feet. The other is harder and closer in the grain, and is from 10 to 20 feet thick. Between these veins there some- times occur cavities* in which very beautiful crystals of carbonate of lime and sulphate of barytes have been found. The southern half of the parish contains some sandstone, be- longing to the coal formation, which is spread over a large portion of the county. The more hilly parts present very evident proofs of the action of a strong current, flowing from the west or south-west. On that side of the different rising grounds, the soil rests immediately on the whinstone, and consists of decomposed rock and vegetable mould. Wherever it is of sufficient thickness, it produces abun- dantly all the different species of cultivated plants. On the east and north, the whinstone is covered by a deposit of clayey till se- veral feet in thickness. The soil in such places is more tenacious, and generally less productive. In the more level district, the coal strata are covered with a thick bed of gravel and sand, apparently deposited by an extensive lake, which had at some former period extended over the " Laigh of 3 MONIMAIL. 39 Fife." This gravel is composed of fragments of many different rocks ; and the soil above it is light and thin. Botany. — The greater part of the land having been under culti- vation from time immemorial, and the rest affording good pasture for cattle and sheep, there is no secluded corner to afford a ha- bitat for any of the rarer indigenous plants. The yellow aco- nite grows in great abundance in the shrubberies at Melville, and the Geranium lucidum on the old walls round Monimail. The va- rious kinds of grasses and vetches are especially abundant. In the soils formed from the decomposition of the whinstone, we find Poa arvensis, P. trivialis, Festuca duriuscula, Cynosurus cri&tatus, Phleum pratense, and Holcus avenaceus most commonly occurring; on the soils lying above sand or gravel, the Festuca ovina, and Agrostis communis are most frequently found ; while the Holcus lanatus and DadyKs glomerata are everywhere abundant.. All the diffe- rent kinds of trees commonly planted seem to thrive ; some of the oaks in particular have been noted for an unusually rapid growth. Zoology. — Owing to the sheltered situation of the parish, and the number of plantations, there is a superabundance of the fea- thered tribes. Occasionally, some of the rarer species have been met with. Among others may be mentioned, the Bohemian and silken chatterers, the grossbeak, the siskin, th% kingfisher, and the passenger pigeon, — the last being the only specimen hitherto discovered in Britain. A few foxes and roe-deer are found in the plantations, but none of the rarer quadrupeds have been observed. The jealousy of the gamekeeper has destroyed almost all the birds and beasts of prey (not excepting the cat) ; wood-pigeons, rabbits, rats, and other vermin, are in consequence numerous and very de- structive. The rivulets supply a few t routs and eels. The only shell-fish is the fresh water muscle. II. — Civil History. Eminent Men, — Of eminent men connected with the parish we may mention, Sir David Lindsay of the Mount, whose family Cor many years retained that property. Several individuals belonging to the noble family of Melville have also received an honourable place in the history of their country. Melville of Raith, (ancestor of the present Earls of Leven and Melville,) was one of the first who embraced the Reformed religion. His sons, James and Andrew Melville, were distinguished for their diplomatic talent in the times of James and Mary. George, the first Earl of Melville, had the honour, as His Majesty's Commissioner to the General Assembly, 40 FIFESHIRE. of announcing that church patronage had been abolished. He was also one of the most active instruments of bringing about the Revolution of 1688. In later times, this parish was the residence of Sir John Hope, afterwards Lord Niddry and Earl of Hopetoun, who acted so distinguished a part in the peninsular war. Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are, the Earl of Leven and Melville ; General the Hon. Sir Alexander Hope of Ran- keilour, G. C. B. ; Francis Balfour, Esq. of Fernie, (nearest heir- male to the attainted title of Burleigh ;) George Paterson, Esq. of Cunoquhie ; and Thomas Webster, Esq. of Balgarvie. Parochial Registers* — The parish registers commence in the year 1626. They are in general pretty well kept; but several portions have been lost. Some of the entries show that the for- mer state of the country was very different from the present Thus, from the treasurer's accounts, we learn, that, besides maintaining the poor, and assisting in educating young men for the ministry, the collections made at church were applied to the repairing of roads, bridges, and harbours. Antiquities. — Of antiquities the number is but small. An old tower yet stands, which is said to have been built by Cardinal Bethune or Beaton, who resided here in 1562. It seems to have formed an addi- tion to a building»which had previously been one of the country resi- dences of the Archbishops of St Andrews. There are several dis- tinct heads of the Cardinal in his cap, in relievo upon the walls. The arms of the family of Bethune are also entire. The house of Fer- nie is believed to have been one of Macduff's castles ; it is very old, and has evidently been a place of strength. In taking down the old church, a stone coffin was found in the wall, formed of a single stone, with a cavity cut of the shape of the body. Another stone formed the cover. Some remnants of what seemed to have been gold lace were found among the mouldering bones and dust ; but who was the person thus immured, could not be ascertained. About a mile from the site of the old church, there is a strong spring of very pure water, which is known by the name of Cardan's well ; so called from a celebrated physician, who is said with this water to have cured Hamilton Archbishop of St Andrews, of dropsy. A belief long prevailed, that this spring was possessed of peculiar me- dicinal properties, and within the last fifty years many persons used to frequent it ; but now its very name and situation are almost for- gotten. Its reputation perhaps arose from a cunning device of the physician, who praised its virtues, that he might induce a lazy eccle- MON1MA1L. 41 siastic to take the exercise necessary for his health, in walking to the well.* Buildings. — The parish is rich in gentlemen's seats; Melville, Rankeilour, Cunoquhie, and Balgarvie, are elegant modern man- sions. Fernie Castle, as before observed, is more ancient, and re- tains marks of having been a place of strength. A beautiful pil- lar, upwards of 100 feet in height, has been erected on the top of the Mount-hill, in memory of the late Lord Hopetoun. The materials generally used in building are freestone for the hewn work, and whin- stone for the ruble. They form together a very solid and durable wall. A few of the cottages are covered with thatch ; but most of them are roofed with tiles, and the better class of buildings with slates. HI. — Population. Judging from the entries in the session registers, the population of the parish does not appear to have made any great increase for the last two hundred years. Dr Webster states it at 884, but this seems to be too low. The increase has arisen from the number of additional hands employed in weaving. The amount of the agri- cultural population is less than in former times. The numbers at each census are as follows : In 1791, .1101 1811, 1160 1821, . 1227 1831, . 1230, of whom 599 were males; and 631 females. Number of persons residing in villages, .... 560 the country, ... 670 children under 12 years of age, ... 426 individuals of 70 and upwards, - - 50 The yearly average of births is - - 28} of illegitimate births is ... 1 of marriages, ..-•££ of deaths, .... 19 Of these last there are at an average, of children either still-born or under a week old, 2 Of persons of 70 and upwards, ..... 8 In the roll of heritors, there are one Earl and one Knight G. C. B. There are ten proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, four are non-resident, and six have their mansion-houses in the parish. The number of families is 277, (including in this number single and unmarried persons, having houses of their own.) * A stone coffin containing two skeletons was lately found at Uthrogal, in trench- ing a piece of ground, which is said by tradition to have been a Roman Catholic burying-placc Uthrogal was formerly a leper hospital, and with the lands of Hos- pital mill in the adjoining parish of Cults, was given by Mary of Gueldres, the wi- dow of James II. to the Trinity Hospital at Edinburgh. On the suppression of religious houses it became the property of the town of Edinburgh, and now belongs to the Earl of Leven. 42 FIFESHIRE. The number of families chiefly employed in agriculture, . . • 147 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 108 There are in the parish 1 insane person, 1 fatuous, 2 blind, and 1 deaf and dumb. During the last three years there have been 3 illegitimate births in the parish. Language. — The language spoken is the dialect peculiar to Fifeshire, which contains a good many words not to be found in Johnson, though their number is gradually diminishing. The pro- nunciation is slow and rather drawling. The double oo, as in fool, is sounded as the French u in un. The / after p and b is often changed into a short i ory, plough and blue being pronounced piu and bin, a corruption similar to the change of the Latin planus into the Italian piano. The a in haste, hate, &c. has a sound interme- diate between the ay in may, and the e in me, which is in fact a dis- tinct vowel, peculiar to the " kingdom of Fife." The short 1, as in him, is pronounced nearly as the u in tub. IV. — Industry. Provisions and Wages. — The price of provisions and rate of wages at different periods may be stated as under : In 1750. 1790. 1810. 1834. Provisions, 9 sed of his property in this parish, found it in a very rugged and un- productive condition,* yet capable of right culture, and of produc- ing good crops. With other proprietors, he took an active part in deepening and straighting a burn, which obstructed the agri- culture of a large district, and affected the whole of the north side of his property. Here he succeeded completely, by drain- ing effectually the parts contiguous to the bum, and also by providing sufficient levels for all the other arrangements. The chief ingredient of the soil is clay. The surface was a good deal encumbered with stones, many of them of an unwieldy size, but all obstacles have been surmounted, and by a liberal encou- ragement to his tenants, and by a judicious superintendence, the farms are well drained, well enclosed, and well cultivated. Up- wards of twenty years ago, the late J. Reddie, Esq. of Redhouse, planted a large piece of peat moss, of about fifteen Scotch acres with Scotch firs. The ground was previously drained and levelled ; and although the moss be in several places upwards of seven feet deep, of a substance entirely moss, yet the trees have thriven, and now the place formerly so gloomy and ugly, presents a pleasant prospect of verdure and utility ; and the surrounding grounds, for- merly marshy and insalubrious, are become wholesome. A good many years ago, Robert Ferguson, Esq. of Raith, took under his management a tract of ground, at that time remarkably ugly, almost waste, and very unproductive. This he has converted into an arable farm, and adorned with thriving plantations. The farm itself is well enclosed, well cultivated, and very productive. It rents, I understand, at the rate of L. 1, 5s. the acre. The extent is 200 acres ; and it is pleasant to learn, that while the country is hereby improved, the original improver has already been indemni- fied for outlays, and continues to draw very good interest for his money. The name of the farm is East Cardon. What a benefit to a country are resident proprietors ! Produce. — Potatoes, 160 acres Scots, at 40 bolls per acre. Turnips, 160 acres. Hay, water meadow, 100 acres, at 150 stone per acre. Pasture, one-third of the whole parish ; the other two-thirds (with the above deductions,) grow wheat, barley, pease and beans, and oats. The quantity of oats sown amounts to perhaps more than that of all the other grains. Quarries* — We have good limestone quarries, and coal is found 170 FIFESHIRE. in every quarter of the parish. The average output of the Cluny coal, belonging to R. Ferguson, Esq. Raith, has been for the last four years: Great coal, per year, 70,499 loads, sold at lid. per load, — 22 stone Dutch each load, or 24 stone 1 pound English ; the whole sold for home consumption. Above and under ground, at the colliery, 74 hands at present are employed, including men and boys. The quantity just now thrown out at Lord Minto's coal work, Lochgelly, is 900 loads per week, 21 stone Dutch, at lid. per load; also 400 ditto, chews, 8d. per load ; exported 300 loads per week. Men employed, 32 colliers ; women, 12, under ground ; men, 7, above ground. The quantity now brought up from Robert Wardlaw Ramsay's coal-work, Dundonald, is 133 loads per week, at 8d. of 22 stone Dutch ; the men employed 7. V. ��� Parochial Economy. The chief village is Lochgelly. We have now useful metalled roads in various directions. The lines have not been well chosen ; but we are thankful for the roads as they are. In the present de- pressed state of agriculture, nothing but the improvement of roads could have kept us up. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is central. It was built in 1789; the manse in 1784. There are no free sittings. The heritors divide the area, according to their valued rent, among their dependents. The glebe is 14£ Scotch acres in extent, and, including the glebe, the living is about L. 300 a-year. The pay- ment of the grain of stipends by the county fiars is an excellent arrangement At present, the average number of communicants at the Established Church is 300. All our dissenters are Presby- terians : and there is a meeting-house at Lochgelly. About one- half of the population is dissenting or seceding. Education. — There are three schools within the parish, and a border school; one is the parish school, the other two village schools. The parish schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and the required accommodations. The border school, supplied with more than one-half of its scholars from this parish, has upwards of 50 scholars. The other two have about 70 each : and the mas- ters have no salaries. The parish school has at present upwards of 90 scholars ; the wages 2s., 2s* 6d., and 3s. per quarter. Clas- sical learning is little in request, even in the parish school. The branches commonly taught are, English, grammatically, the English Bible, English collections, writing, accounts, a religious catechism, AUCHTERDERRAN. 1 7 1 geometry, mensuration, geography, navigation, book-keeping, church music Considering their moderate means, the parents are remarkably anxious to procure education for their children, and none of these grow up without being put to school. Our paro- chial schools have been much improved by the augmenting of the salaries, — a measure equally wise and benevolent Savings Bank. — A savings bank has been kept in this parish ever since that kind of institution was introduced into Scotland. It was for some years managed by Mr Greig, the dissenting minister of Lochgelly, and myself jointly. Upon Mr Greig*s death the ma- nagement devolved wholly upon my family. The amount of de- posits has varied from L. 900 to L. 400. The persons depositing are all of the industrious and poorer classes. The sums deposited are sometimes as low asLl, and never of great amount They are deposited with the Kirkaldy branch of the Bank of Scotland. It is to be regretted that this sort of institution has not become more prevalent Perhaps it would become more prevalent, if, instead of dividing into single parishes, a number of parishes were group- ed together, such as those of a presbytery or a small county. The small county of Kinross carries on with success a county savings bank, kept at the county town. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Our poor are supplied from our collections at the church, and from the interest derived from a sum of money (about L. 700) in the management of the kirk-session. But though our collections have increased, yet, for the last two years, the interest of our money has decreased in a greater propor- tion. Yet we are averse to frequent assessments ; for although our heritors are well inclined to our poor, we think it would not prove ultimately for the public benefit to apply often to this resource. Dur- ing my long incumbency we have had only three assessments on the heritors for the poor, and these were for very moderate sums. Our number of poor upon the monthly list runs from 15 to 22 families. To each of these families the kirk-session distri- butes monthly 3s. at an average. But our greatest disburse- ments the session reserves for occasional charities, for sickness, for severe accidents, for house rents, for school wages to poor children, for defraying the expenses of patients going and coming to or from an infirmary, &c Every individual case is inquired into, and care- fully judged of by the session. Alehouses. — We have 12 of these in the parish. 172 fifeshire. Miscellaneous Observations. I mentioned in my last report, that a turnpike road, running from east to west through this district, had been projected, and even at that time had obtained the sanction of Parliament ; but it has never been executed. It was to run from the Plasterers' Inn on the Leven to Kirk of Beath. It was to give a shorter and better line of travelling towards St Andrews, Dundee, Cupar, on the one hand, and towards Queensferry, Dunfermline, Edinburgh, Glas- gow, on the other. Several roads have since been made here with various views, but none directly or properly laying open this great thoroughfare. Were the lines now referred to adopted, the other roads would fell into country bye roads. It is surprising how slow- ly even in this mercantile country improved lines of communica- tion are adopted. But this direction of road will, from its obvious benefits, still force itself upon the public attention. Another turnpike still more universally important, running from south to north, and crossing the above at right angles, is projected, and engrosses much attention. It is proposed to carry this road from Burntisland to the Inn of Farg in Strathearn, there to join the great Queensferry and Perth road. From Burntisland the line runs on to Auchtertool, from Auchtertool to Auchterderran, from Auchterderran to Portmoak, passing the east end of Loch- leven near to Scotland Well From this, the line runs through part of Strathmiglo parish, near to Edenhead and to the old castle of Balvaird, and then joins the Queensferry and Perth road near the Inn of Farg. Whoever casts his eye upon a map will per- ceive how much space is cut off by this line, compared to that round by Queensferry. The district is also much more level From the day when it was first ascertained that steam-vessels could with advantage ply the Frith of Forth, this road might have been expected to commence. But it was immediately found that, to have the benefit of such a road, a low water pier would be necessary at Burntisland, and this became a preliminary obstruc- tion which has not yet been surmounted. If we compare the outlay that would be necessary for this plan of road to the inn of Farg, with outlays made upon other great roads and works, it appears compa- ratively trifling. The new road from Glasgow to Carlisle, for in- stance, is said to have cost upwards of L. 60,000. This Fife road could be executed for less than a third of that sum : yet the city of Glasgow alone derives almost all the benefit from that conveyance, whereas here all Scotland north of Forth would be essentially be- AUCHTERDERRAN. 1 73 nefited by rendering their travelling to Edinburgh and London, and all the south-east parts of the island shorter, far more speedy and pleasant,— not to speak of the great local advantages that would attend it It has not yet been ascertained by experiment whether, from our clayey close-bottomed strong soil, spade culture could, with a sure prospect of remuneration, be introduced into general practice in farming. From the effects produced by this practice on our kitchen gardens, we have the fullest conviction, that the crops thus raised are far better than those from the plough furrow. We sow our grains earlier than formerly, particularly barley, which was wont to be sown in May, but now generally in April; and ex- perience confirms the advantage of the change. There is a full crop, and the grain is weightier and better ripened. Drunkenness, formerly rare, is now lamentably frequent — Forty years ago, emigration was thought of with much reluctance ; now the predilection for the native spot has diminished, and emigration is more readily embraced. — Forty years ago, we were accustomed to regard increase of population as increase of national prosperity ; now such increase seems regarded as an obstruction.— -Forty years ago we had no medical gentlemen in the parish ; at present two are resident — Since the draining of our soil and marshes obtained, the heron has nearly disappeared, and since our district became wood- ed, pheasants have reached our latitude. — Forty years ago, ser- vants for husbandry were few in number, at present they seem re- dundant—Formerly coal-hewers were inferior to other classes in morals and respectability, here they are now nearly on a level. — Forty, nay twenty, years ago, we had not one metalled road, now we have several. — Forty years ago, irregularity, multiplicity and con- fusion of weights and measures pervaded all transactions, now we have one philosophical and just standard. — Forty years ago, the ministers of the Established Church generally delivered all their discourses from the pulpit without reading ; now they are general- ly read. — Forty years ago, land was sold in Fife at thirty-five years' purchase of the existing rental, now it sells at twenty-six years' pur- chase of the present rental The valued rent of this parish is upwards of L. 7000 Scotch. The present real rent is about L. 7000 Sterling. — Forty years ago, rents were all paid here in money ; now they begin to be paid in grain, at the rate of the county fiars. — Forty years ago, resurrec- tionists, as they are called, were unheard of; now, even the poor 174 FIFESHIRE. labourer is under the hardship of providing safes for the graves of his friends. — Forty years ago, thrashing machines were unknown to us; now, they are become general and so beneficial that it is difficult to believe how farming could be carried successfully on without them. — Forty years ago, the different ranks in society were distinguished from each other by their dress ; at present there is little distinction in dress. — Forty-nine years ago, I was the youngest minister of the presbytery, now I am the oldest. Revised May 1836. PARISH OF BEATH. PRESBYTERY OF DUNFERMLINE, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. JAMES FERGUSSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name.— The name of the parish was anciently spelt Baith, and signifies, in Gaelic, birchwood,— of which there is not a vestige now to justify the etymology. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is about 4 miles long, and 3 broad, and is of an irregular figure. It is bounded on the west by the parish of Dunfermline ; on the south by Dunfermline and Aberdour ; on the south-east and east by Aberdour and Auchter- tool ; on the north-east by Auchterderran ; on the north and north- west by Ballingry and Cleish. Topographical Appearances. — Its surface is rugged and hilly; but there are no mountains. The beautiful hill of Beath, in re- gard to the excellence of its pasture, and the fine and extensive view it affords, is well entitled to the description given of it in the last Statistical Account The Saxifraga granulata is found on it in abundance. Owing to the elevation of the parish, and to the quantity of wet land in and around it, the climate, during the greater part of the year, is cold and humid. The only lake in the parish is Loch Fitty (not Tilly, as, by mistake, in the last account) It is about three miles in circumference, rather shallow, adorned with little scenery, and contains pike, perch, and muscle. 3 BEATH. 175 At present there are three collieries in operation in the parish. The rocks in the hills and plains are, so for as known, of whin and free or sandstones. Some years ago, a lime rock was discovered in the west end of the parish, and partially wrought The soils, all untransported, are brown earth upon whinstone, till, and moss. II. — Civil History. Land-owners.— -There are thirteen land-owners connected with the parish, all of whom, except one, possess property in it above L. 50 a-year. The principal proprietors are, the Earl of Moray, patron; Mr Dewar; and the Lord Chief- Commissioner Adam. Several others have lands of considerable extent and value. Only five of the heritors are at present resident Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, consisting of mi- nutes of session, records of marriages, births and burials, have been pretty regularly kept The earliest entries were in 1642, and were prefaced with a very curious and interesting account of the causes which led to the rebuilding of the church, — which it is thought proper here to subjoin. * • « A short andjlne Naration concerning the Kirk qfBalth, 1640 The kirk of Baith, a most fittand convenient place for the situatione of a kirk, being upone the roade way, and in the just midis betwixt Kinross and Innerkethine. Sua it is to rememberit that tho* it be amongst the smallest, yit the name of it is amongst the antientest par- roches in Scotland. Wherefore, a most reverend and worth ie brother, Mr William Scott, sometime minister at Couper, reported that the first place of meeting that ever the Protestant Lords of Scotland had for the covenante and Reformation*) at the kirk of Baith. This kirk in some sorte myght be compared to Gideon's fleece, which was dry, when all the earth was watered. " When all the congregations of Fyfe were planted, this poore kirk was neglected and overlooked, and lay desolate then fourteene yeeres, after the Reformatione eighty yeeres. The poore parochiners being always lyke wandering sheep without a sheep- hard, and whairas they should have conveened to bear a pastoure preiche, the princi- pal cause of the people's meetinge, wes to heere a pyper play upone the Lord's daye, which was the daye of thair profaine mirth, not being in the workes of thair calling. Which was the caus that Sathane had a most faire name amongst them, stirring many of them up to dancing, playing at foot-ball, and excessive drinking, falling out and wounding one another, which wes the exercise of the younger sort, and the older sort played at gems and the workes of their calling without any distinction of the weeke daye from the daye of the Lord, and thus they continued, as said is, the space of eighty yeeres : this poore kirk being always neglected, became a sheepe hous in the night. " And becaus some of the poore people desyred to have yr poore little ones (being young maydes for the most pairt) brought up at school, what abominatione was com- mitted by the profaine Mr, I will not expresse : let it suffice the world to know, that the poore criminall, after his flight, was overtaken and brought to justice, for such ane vile and hard misdemaner ; this which hath been wreatten, may be sufficient to make any hart melt for the most abominable estate of this poore kirk. In end, recourse wes hadd to the Yerle of Moray, lord and patrone of the lands of the parroch, to try if it might pleis Lo. to kntribute any thing to the building of that poore kirk, or iff he would pittye the poore people, and such a long soul murther that hadd been amongst them. The Countess of Home, his mother-in-law, was also dealt with to the samine purpose, but both refuissed. Sua when that poore people hadd been so long excluded from all hopes to gett their kirk builded, or any pastoure to speakc a word of comfort to the parrochiner's souls, it pleised the Lord to put it in the hart 176 FIFESHIRE. III. — Population. In 1821, the amount of population was 729. By the census of 1831, very accurately taken, it was 921, — males, 459 ; females, 462. Of this amount there were 23 above 70 years of age. About 400 of the population live in the villages of Kelly and Oakfield. of Mr Alexander Collville of Blair, having no relatione to doe for this poore people, but being only their neere neighboure, and beholding from his own window* thair pyping and dancing, revelling and deboshing, their drinking and excesse, thair ryote everie Sabbath day, was moved by the Lord, and mightilie stirred up to undertake something for that poore people, and having assembled some of the speciall men of the parroch, at the village of Sheills, sounded thair mindes, if they might be bold to ad- venture to assist and help him with horses for drawing of timber and'stones, (he and they both fearing the oppositione and discountenance of the lord and patrone of the paroch,) the parrochiners present did give this comfortable answer, that they woud both doe and adventure to kntribute thair best endeavores with men and horses, for building of their kirk, but becaus of their povertie, they were not able to kntribute anie of their owne private monnie, but amongst others that were present, none was found more foreward with his horse and assistance than Mr Johne Hodge, tennent in Leuchat's Baith, of whome I made electione to oversee the worke and the work- men, and did presentlie advance him some monnie for that effect. "It pleised the Lord, so be blessed our endeavores that the worke prospered in our hand, and was brought to great perfectione in a short tyroe, even to the admiratione of the people and passengers, who marvelled to see the worke goe on so sudanlie, neither knowing the way nor the instruments. And becaus it wes impossible, when the walls were up to get the kirk slaitted in such haist, the slaittes being at Tippermoore, which was at sizteene miles distance ; thairfor it wes thought expedient for the present yeere, that it should be sarked with dealles, which being done with very great diligence, 1 thought good to send for ane old reverend brother, Mr John Row Law, minister at Carnocke, who after some refuisalls, without the consent of the minister of Aberdour, (becaus into his kirk, the parroches of Dalgetie and Baith were annexed,) he ooud not undertake to preach, yet after muche intreattie he was moved to come to such ane eflamished congregatione, in such a retyred place. The people understanding that scrmone was to be at the kirk of Baith so unexpectedlie, and so suddeolie builded ; did resort from all places, and much out of everie sitie, being new tangled with such a suddan change, thronged in so to kirk, that thair wes scarce anie place left to raise up some height for a place to the pastoure. And while the pastoure was in a most moveing and elegant straine for the kindness and mercie of God to that people that hadd lived so long in darkness, it pleised the Lord out of his free and immense love to bring such a suddain rushe of joye upone my hart, that I had almost fainted, but in end remembering myseiffe, I was comforted to think that the Lord had shewed a pledge of his goodnesse towards me, and accepted of my weake and unworthie obedi- ence, to make me instrumentall for the worke of his majestic 1 shall not insist to speike anie thing at all of my actings and doings, or sufferings, to be instrumentall in the worke of the Lord, but one thing I must dec 1 aire, that Sathanebath beene, is, and will be bussie against all those that will be instrumental for the service of God, so be- came he my enemy in stirring up some to scourge me with the tongue/and put grie- vous aspersions upone my name and reputatione ; in stirring up some to slander mee, as iff I had intervened something that was given by some few friendes for that proud use. But I declaire in the presence of God, to all after ages, that .such reports are but false calumnies and lyes ; thair wes never suche a thing as one penny intervened or withheld by me from the work of the Lord. And becaus my conscience beares mee wttnesse of the honestie of ray carriage therein, it is also borne in upon mee to pronunce from God, that he who devysed to scourge me with the tongue shall be punished without repentance. And more, to shew my integrity, where ane promise that ever I had in the worke of the Lord, was from a most religious Christiane, Wil- liam Breggs of Athernie, and becaus I did alwayes rest confident of the certaintie of the helpe of such a religious man ; I suspendit it last of all, and would not goe to vi- sile this worthie man without the presence of ane elder, whom I chose to be John Hodge, who accompanied mee to Athernie, and when wee came to Bennochie, it was reported to us, that he was depairted this life, which wes so ; and so wee were frus- trat altogether of our greatest hopes. (Signed) Jo. Hunttzr. m BEATH. 177 The number of families is 180, containing each, of individuals, on an average, somewhat more than 5 ; a fact, perhaps, rather uncom- mon ; and to be accounted for by early marriages, chiefly among the colliers, who earn higher wages than any other class of labourers. There are 4 houses at present in progress of building ; all the rest, amounting to 161, are inhabited. The increase of population is owing to the additional number of hands employed at the collieries, and to a system of feuing lately introduced. The annual average ofbirths for the last seven years, appearing from the parish records, was 15; of marriages, 5; and of deaths, 13. But, as the deaths of all who are interred in the churchyard are recorded, although some of them are from other parishes, and as some parents neglect to have the births of their children register- ed, the exact number of births and deaths cannot be ascertained. In general the people enjoy the advantages and comforts suited to their stations in life. In dress and the decoration of their per- sons, they keep pace with the times. They are, upon the whole, moral and religious. There have been, as there still are, several instances of longevity among them. During the last three years there have been 4 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — In this parish, there is not much land that is not capable of being rendered arable ; and by far the greater part has been at one period under the plough. Of late years a good deal has been done in the way of reclaiming waste land, and improv- ing such as had been neglected by bad husbandry ; and the result has been a fair remuneration. Number of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, .... 5270 * Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain con- stantly waste, or in pasture, - - - - . 516 Number of acres that might, with a profitable application of capital, be ad- ded to the cultivated land of the parish, whether that land were afterwards to be kept in occasional tillage or in permanent pasture, - - 394 f Number of acres under wood, whether natural or planted, - . 530 -Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of all kind?, ..... L. 5479 Potatoes, turnips, cabbages, &c. .... 2040 * Although all this has been at one period in tillage, a considerable portion of it ha* been long in pasture, and, as such, is now of inferior quality. f If the spirit for improvement at present manifested by the tenantry does not relax, all th« improvable land will, in a few years, have bean under crop. FIFE. M 178 FIFESH1UE. Hay, ....... L. 1055 Flax, ....... 32 Ijand in pasture, rating it at L. 2, 10s. per cow or full-grown ox, graced, or that may be graied for the season, - - 2216 Gardens and orchards, - . - . - - 55 00 Annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, plantations, (most of which are young,) and copse, - - - - 150 Mines. — Amount of sales at the Kclty colliery from January 1834 to January 1835. The other two collieries have been at a stand for a year or two, ------ 2920 13 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 13947 13 Rent of Land. — The average price of land may be stated at about L. 1 per Scotch acre. The value of different parts of the same farm differs very widely. Several farms have been for many years under pasture for black cattle, and pay fully as well as in til- lage. The state of farming is, upon the whole, rapidly improving, owing partly to the encouragement afforded by the landlords, and partly to a more judicious mode of husbandry, and greater industry on the part of the tenants. Paring and burning, draining, liming, and earlier sowing, are the more striking and beneficial improve- ments. The farm-buildings are, in several instances, pretty good, and suited to the value of the farms and to the district. Those on the property of the Earl of Moray have been lately erected. That nobleman has also improved the appearance and value of his lands by judicious plantations. And it were much to be wished, that some of the other proprietors, whose lands afford abundant capa- bility, would, in this respect, follow his Lordship's example, and that of the Lord Chief- Commissioner, by which means their own ad- vantage would be promoted, and the parish be no longer prover- bial for bleakness. The duration of leases is, in most cases, for nineteen years, which is considered to be favourable to the occu- pier. The productions of the parish are, oats, barley, wheat par- tially, peas, beans, potatoes, turnips, a little flax, and cultivated and meadow hay.* A day-labourer earns from Is. 6d. to 2s. a-day. Male farm-servants are hired at from L. 10 to L. 12 per annum ; and female servants receive from L. 5 to L. 6 per annum. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — There are no markeUtownsin this pa- rish. The nearest are Dunfermline and Kinross, each distant about ■ From the results of experiments made, for several years past* by the writer of this account, he has reason to believe that carrots sown in our kitchen gardens, about the middle of May, are much less liable to the depredations of the worm, than those sown at an earlier period. It will be an additional advantage to sow them in the beds in which leeks were reared the preceding vear. 4 BEATII. 179 six miles from the centre of the parish. Blair- Adam Inn, in the parish of Cleish, is the post-office, nearly three miles from the manse. The great north road from Queensferry to Perth, one of the best in the kingdom, passes through the parish, a length of four miles. There are three public daily coaches, including the mail, travelling on it The bridges are in good repair, and the parish is all en* closed and subdivided, chiefly with good stone fences, called Gallo- way dikes. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is the only place of pub- lie worship. Its situation is convenient for the population, but not so its size, affording accommodation to only 250 sitters* It is an old, cold, damp, fabric. In 1808, it underwent a repair, and stands greatly in need of another. If the heritors consulted their own in- terest, and the accommodation and comfort of the people, they would cause its foundation to be dug up.* In good weather the church is remarkably well attended. The average number of communicants is above 200, and the number is annually increasing. Of the population nearly 200, old and young, are Burgher Seceders, the only description of Dissenters in the pa- lish. Their number has greatly diminished within the last twenty years. The manse was built in 1801, and a small addition was made to it four years ago. The glebe consists of 8 acres, and may be worth from L. 16 to L. 20 yearly. The teinds are exhausted, and the stipend is the minimum. Education.— The parochial school is the only one in the parish. Its situation is central. The usual branches of education are taught in it For the last fourteen years, owing greatly to the su- perior merits of the teachers, Mr William Beatton, lately called to the parish of Kennoway, and his brother, who has succeeded him, it has been attended by an average of 100 scholars. The fees are, per quarter, for English reading, 2s. 6d. ; reading and writing, 3s. ; do. do. and arithmetic, 4s. ; Latin and Greek, 5s. The school- master's house and school-room were lately erected, and are good and commodious. The salary is the maximum: the fees may amount to L. 30 per annum. There are very few persons in the parish above six years of age who cannot read. In general, the people are alive to the benefits of education. There are, however, some exceptions, chiefly among the colliers. • Since the above account was given in, a handsome and excellent church has been erected, calculated to afford ample accommodation to the parishioners, and which re- flects (peat credit upon the liberality of the heritors. 180 FIFESHIRE. Some years ago, Francis Berry, a native of the parish, and who spent the greater part of his life in it, in the capacity of a small for- mer, (in consequence of the death of his only child, a student in divinity,) bequeathed a feu in land and houses, the fruit of honest industry, for educating poor children, natives of the parish. The property is subject to the liferent of his widow, an elderly woman. It is let in lease for L. 28, 10s. per annum. The kirk-session are appointed sole trustees. Poor. — The maintenance of the poor has long been a light burden. At present there are only 5 on the roll, three of whom receive each Is. a- week, and the other two, in more indigent circumstances, Is. 9d. each. Their wants are supplied out of the ordinary collec- tions, which amount to about L. 1 1 annually ; the interest of L. 100 due by promissory-note to the session, and the dues upon marriages and burials. The poor evince no unnecessary disposition to soli- cit parochial aid. Inns. — There are one inn and four public-houses in the parish, and their effects are notoriously injurious to the morals of the people. Fuel — The fuel used is coal, of which there is great abundance at a reasonable price. Miscellaneous Observations. The more striking variations between the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Ac- count, consist in an improved mode of farming, better farm-build- ings, plantations, collieries, roads, population, school, and number of resident heritors, which is smaller. The standard weights and measures are in use. There is still much room for improvement in the way of drain- ing, reclaiming waste land, and planting. What might be profit- ably done in this last respect, is sufficiently evinced in the exten- sive and thriving plantations on the estate of the Lord Chief- Com- missioner, a gentleman to whose taste, liberality, and public spirit, this district, generally, is highly indebted. Given in April 1833, Revised April 1836. PARISH OF DALGETY. PRESBYTERY OF DUNFERMLINE, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. ALEXANDER WATT, A.M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent, Boundaries. — This parish is situated on the northern coast of the Frith of Forth. Its southern boundary stretches about 4 miles along the wooded broken line of beach, that lies betwixt the village of Aberdour and the borough of Inverkeithing. It is near- ly of a triangular form, extending in length about 4 miles from south to north, and not exceeding in many places a mile in breadth. It is bounded by Inverkeithing on the west ; by Aberdour on the east and north ; and by a small part of the parish of Dunfermline on the north-west Topographical Appearances. — There is a gradual ascent from the southern to the northern extremity, which stands about 436 feet above the level of the sea. From some of the higher ground on the estates of Fordel and Cockairney, the views are very extensive. They command at one sweep the whole range of the opposite coast from Queensferry as far as the Isle of May. It may be said that we have two distinct climates in this small parish. In the lower division on the sea coast, which is well wood- ed, and in a state of good cultivation, the thermometer generally stands some degrees higher than in the upper district, which con- tains an extensive coal-field, and the soil of which is of a much in- ferior quality. In spring, the whole parish, like most of those along the sea-coast, is much exposed to the chilling influence of the pre- vailing east winds. The inhabitants, however, are generally very healthy, and there is no disease peculiar to them except some cases of asthma and rheumatism amongst the colliers, which are occa- sioned by the nature of their occupation. Hydrography. — There are no rivers in this parish. There is a lake, however, of considerable extent. It is about three-quarters of a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in breadth. At the east end of it, stands the old mansion-house of Cockairnev, the re- 182 F1FESHII&E. sidence of Sir Robert Mowbray, Knight, one of the heritors of the parish. On the northern bank, is situated the old mansion-house of Otterston, whence the lake derives its name, which is at present occupied by Lady Torrens, widow of the late Sir Henry Torrens. The lake and all the lands of Otterston form part of the estate of Sir Robert Mowbray of Cockairney. The blending of hill and dale, of wood and water, in this spot, renders it a scene of no com- mon beauty. There is a picturesquely situated waterfall on the adjoining grounds of FordeL The stream which forms it winds its course for a considerable way through a darkly wooded glen, where it meets with the outlet of water from the great drainage level of the Fordel colliery, and then rushes over a broken rocky precipice of about fifty feet in height Near the termination of this glen there is a mineral well, a minute analysis of which is to be found in Professor Jameson's Philosophical Journal for the year 1829. Geology and Mineralogy. — The minerals known in this parish belong to the secondary series of rocks ; and, so far as they have yet been discovered, may be said to abound in sandstone, bitumi- nous shale, quartz, rock-limestone, and coal. The general dip of the strata is north-east, varying, in some places, from the disloca- tions of the minerals by dikes, which, according to their magni- tude, more or less derange and alter it Sandstone abounds all over the parish ; but it is of more value in the southern than in the northern division. About the centre of the parish there is a thick bed of exceedingly hard quartz rock. It does not ap- pear at the surface, except in two or three places, being generally concealed by a thick covering of earth. Limestone, which con- stitutes the basis of the coal formation, extends regularly through- out the parish, under the coal. It is found about 50 fathoms underneath the lower bed of coal, and from the basin shape of the minerals, the lime seldom or ever makes its appearance at the surface ; but it is to be found in considerable quantities, both to the east and west, in the adjoining parishes of Aberdour and In- verkeithing. Fordel coal-works. — Coal, the mineral of the greatest importance, abounds in considerable quantities in this parish. The extensive coal-works on the estate of Fordel, the property of Admiral Sir P. C. H. Durham, G. C. B. form the principal feature of this parish, and the great source of its trade and revenue. The coal on the lands of Fordel has been wrought for nearly 240 years. This has been a valuable property ; but its value is now much diminished, in con- DALGETV* 183 sequence of the great extent of coal which has been wrought out of it As Sir Philip Durham, however, has in lease the adjoining coal-fields on the estate of Cuttlehill, it is certain that coal will be conveyed through the parish for upwards of 150 years to come. And even when it is exhausted, the extensive minerals to the north, in the neighbouring parish, will, in all probability, be brought through this parish to the shipping port of St David's. From a recent inspection of the strata throughout this parish, and, parti- cularly, from a minute examination of that part of it connected with the mining operations, it is found that the coal-field is much in- tersected with dikes and dislocations, which very much elevate and depress the strata forming this extensive coal country. From the harbour of St David's, the southern boundary of the parish, as far north as the drainage level of the Fordel colliery ope- rations, — a distance of about two miles, — the strata appear some- what regular, dipping to the north-east. They cannot, however, be correctly ascertained in many places, as they have a conside- rable cover of earth upon them. From the latter point, northwards, they can be most accurately traced. The outlet of water from the drainage level of the Fordel col- liery is 120 feet above the level of the sea, and it is continued north- wards nearly three miles through the solid rock. During its course ten dikes are met with of various magnitudes ; in some places they do not alter the strata many feet ; in others, they are found 100 feet thick, and elevating the strata sixty fathoms. Their direction often varies as well as their angle of inclination from nearly a horizontal to a vertical position. The materials of which these dikes are com- posed are generally sandstone, more or less indurated with quartx and limestone. From the point at which coal is first found, the surface rises gently northwards, till it reaches the height of 436 feet above the level of the sea ; this forms the northern boundary, and the highest part of the parish. It is found as we proceed northwards, that the strata assumes a greater dip in some places, varying from 1 in 8 to 1 in 3. In very few instances, however, do these dikes deterio- rate the coal in quality, but the reverse; for as the miner ap- proaches these dikes, the coal becomes harder, and more difficult to work, and in many cases an extra expense is paid for labour. The coal mines in this parish were not wrought to any considerable extent until within the last thirty years, when the consumption of coal has been very much increased, particularly for steam naviga- 184 FIFESHIRE. tion. And as this coal-field produces the finest coal for that pur- pose, the working of it has been much more extensively carried on. The depth of the mining operations at the northern boundary of the parish is 300 feet from the surface, and that of the main drain- age level is only about 250 feet ; consequently machinery is required to raise the water from the mines, a distance of about 50 feet, in- stead of which, had the level been carried duly horizontal, the whole of the coal now drained by machinery would have been level free. And thus had due regard been paid at first to the drainage level, the expensive machinery now erected on the works would, in a great measure, have been unnecessary. The coal-field of this parish extends two miles north and south, and one mile east and west, and forms the basin or trough of the coal-fields in the neighbourhood. For, upon drawing a line in a north-eastern direction from the point at which coal is first found to the extremity of the parish, it appears that the coal and its ac- companying strata uniformly rise to the east as well as to the west of that line. To the east it rises rapidly, and throws out the crop of the upper coals before it goes out of the parish ; the under ones are found on the verge of the Aberdour parish. At every dike or dislocation of the strata northwards, the coals are thrown further east, until the same coals in quality, though not the same in num- ber, or in thickness, are found to extend into Lochgelly parish, and so on eastwards, throughout the whole of that coal country. To the westward of this line, the same takes place, but not so rapidly, and this forms the most interesting and valuable coal-field in the western district of Fife. The same dikes and coals can be traced with great regularity from the east of this, to the west of the parish of Dunfermline, with little or no variation in the line of bear- ing, although they are more or less depressed by the intersection of diagonal dikes changing the direction of the strata. In order more fully to shew the metals passed through in the progress of sinking for coal, we shall here annex a correct section of the strata as taken from actual measurement Section of a pit at Fordel Colliery. Fath. Feet. In. Surface sand and clay, 4 2 6 Dark-grey freestone, White freestone, 1 2 Soft: light freestone, Dark yellow da 2 3* Blae, Soft blae and bands, I 4 Blawlowan coal, Blue blae, 1 1 2 Grey freestone bands, Dark grey freestone, . 2 1 *k Light yellow freestone, Do. with bands, 4 3 Dark-yellow do. Yellow freestone, 1 3 5 Do. mixed with blae, Fath. Ft. In. 2 1 8 2 9 2 10 1 3 1 J0 1 2 <* 2 8 3 3* DALGETY. 185 Fath. Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In. Lighter mixed with blae, 1 ]0J Yellow freestone, . 12 9 Very hard freestone, .054} Blae, . • 046 Blae and bands, . .018 Coaltbief coal, . .058 Mynheer coal, • .040 Freestone post, . 149 Do. hard grey freestone, 2 4 Grey bands, . .030 Light do. . . 1 5 7£ White freestone, . 3 Blae, . . . 1 2 4£ Very bard do. . 5 Grey freestone, . 15 6 Coal, . . .013 Do. . . .025 Blae, . . .040 Very hard freestone, .118 White freestone, . 13 6 Softer do. . .027 Ironstone bands, . 005 Blae, . . .039 Freestone, . 247 Black blae, • .10 5 Blae and bands, . 10 2 Very hard do. bands, • 5 2 Main splint coal, . 4 9 Blae and freestone, . 2 3 7 • Dark-grey bands, . 2 8 Total depth, . , 49 2 Ofr There are thus only four workable seams of coal, named the Blawlowan, Coalthief, Mynheer, and Splint — The Blawlowan is a soft cubical coal, it is generally used in lime-works, burns slow- ly, and produces white ashes. — The Mynheer is an excellent splint coal, burns with little ashes, is used for steam-machinery, but it is best adapted for household purposes.—- The Coalthief is a strong cubical coal, free of all iron pyrites, burns clean, works large, and is principally used by distillers and manufacturers. — The Main Splint is a very superior coal to the other three. It burns free of ashes, leaves a small cinder, is very bituminous, works large, and has an exceedingly strong flame when burning, and from its durability and superior quality, is considered the best in Scotland for steam navi- gation and household purposes, for which immense shipments are made all over the continent. Having given a short account of the coal-6eld of this parish, and its connection with those of the adjoining parishes, we shall shortly state the quantity of coal still remaining to be wrought This, we are sorry to say, is reduced to a comparatively small extent, as may be easily conceived from the length of time during which it has been wrought There is, it is generally believed, coal to work on the Fordel estate for thirty years at a moderate rate, as there still remains one or two coal-fields untouched, but the mining appara- tus not being directed in that quarter, it may be some time before they are explored. I am also inclined to think that there are se- veral great coal seams throughout the parish, particularly in the southern division, and which may soon be examined, especially those lying in the direction of the strath, in front of Fordel House, where evident proofs of a coal formation have been traced. It may be sufficient at present to mention, that in the parishes of Aberdour, Dalgety, Inverkeithing, and Dunfermline, there are coal-fields 186 FIFESUIRE. which will last many centuries at the present extent of sales, which may be estimated at nearly 230,000 tons. The average annual sales from Fordel colliery may be estimated at nearly 70,000 tons. The mode by which the coals are conveyed to the shipping harbour is by a wooden railway laid with beech and fir, having wood-sleepers every two feet apart. The road is laid double, having one fir rail below, and a beech rail above. Wag- gons containing three tons are drawn by one and sometimes by two horses, to the shipping port of St David's, and emptied into the vessels by machines erected for that purpose. This waggon way is upheld at a very great expense ; but extensive operations have been going on for some time, preparing a new line of road for an iron railway, which, when finished, will be an immense saving annu- ally, independently of the greater facility and expedition with which shipments may then be made. The superior quality of the Fordel coal is now known over the whole of Europe, and being particular- larly adapted for steam navigation, it has gained an ascendency over most of the Scotch and English coal for that purpose. Besides being so well adapted for all household uses, it is also much in request by bakers, brewers, manufacturers; and large exports are made to the continent and to America, which is in a great measure to be attributed to the exertions of the spirited proprietor of the works, Admiral Sir Philip Durham, G. C. B. who has used every means, and has spared no expense, in proving the superior qualities of the Fordel coal, especially for the purpose of raising steam. In the present state of the coal trade in the river Forth, there is little encouragement to make any extensive improvements. It has undergone a complete change within the last twenty-five years. And this has been particularly the case since 1820, when a more exten- sive sale of English coal was introduced into the Scotch market In 1824, the prices revived a little, which gave a new stimulus to the coal proprietors, but at present they are again much reduced. The following are the prices at which coals are put on board ves- sels at the harbour of St David's from the Fordel colliery : Best splint great coal, 9s. per ton ; chew coal, 6s. 6d. ; mixed house- hold coal, 6s. 6d. ; small coal, 3s. lOd. And even at these very re- duced prices it is difficult to effect the ordinary sales ; and in many cases coals are sold at the cost price. Salt-works. — In connection with the colliery and railway for the exportation of coal at St David's, there are very extensive salt-works upon the best principles. There is a steam-engine for drawing the DALGETY. 187 salt water at flood tides into a large reservoir, which contains as much water as is necessary for a week's consumption. This com- pletely secures the deposition of all mud and sand, so that the water becomes quite pure before it is used for making salt There are large salt pans, which make annually about 30,000 bushels, the sales of which amount to about L. 1600. Harbours. — The harbour at St David's seems originally to have been very indifferently constructed, as appears from the remains of the old pier. Within these four years, the proprietor, Sir Philip Durham, has made great improvements, at an expense of nearly L» 2000, so that vessels of 460 to 500 tons burden can come in and load with safety, and command from seventeen to eighteen feet of water. These extensive additions were much wanted, without which it would have been impossible to have effected the present exten- sive sales. All that is now wanting is the finishing of the new railway to make Fordel colliery, with the harbour of St David's, one of the most complete coal- works in Scotland. The annual circulation of money at the Fordel and Cuttlehill collieries, and at the salt-works at St David's may be estimated at nearly L. 22,000. The number of men, women, and children who derive their support from the above works exceeds 800, or nearly two-thirds of the whole parish. When we consider the various advantages of which such works are pro- ductive to the parish, and to the neighbourhood, they reflect the highest honour on their benevolent proprietor, who for many years has received little emolument from them. The number of houses occupied by the families of work-people belonging to the colliery is about 130. The number of men employed is 100; unmar- ried men and boys, 186; women and girls, 120; making a total of 536, actually employed. This number is independent of those who are engaged in the shipping of coals, in the salt-works, and in driving waggons, which require upwards of 50 horses. These people are paid every fourteen days. Their wages are very good ; a collier, when the work is going on well, can earn about 3s. per day. They have likewise very comfortable houses and gardens, which are kept up at the expense of the proprietor. The only fossil remains found in the strata are some simple petrifac- tions of a species of fern now extinct. There are also some bi- valves, and other shells amongst the argillaceous schistus. In the upper part of the parish, there are frequently found trunks of trees, next to the strata beneath the moss, petrified into a soft sandstone ; 188 FIFESH1RE. the outer part of them is generally very perfect, and is covered with coaly matter. The soil in this parish is very various. In the southern parts it consists generally of a deep strong loam, mixed with clay. The sloping banks lying to the south are of a lighter and drier nature. Where the coal formation commences the soil is generally wet and stiff, and there are also a few mossy swamps covered with heath. II. — Civil History. Land-owners. — The whole lands in the parish belong to three proprietors, who are generally resident, viz. the Right Honour- able the Earl of Moray, who resides at Donibristle; Admiral Sir P. C. H. Durham, G. C. B. at Fordel House ; and Sir Ro- bert Mowbray, Knight, at Cockairney. There has lately been built on the grounds of the Earl of Moray, a dwelling-house, which is at present occupied by P. Anislie, Esq. who acts as his Lord- ship's Commissioner. It has been named St Col me House, be- ing situated nearly opposite the island of that name in the Frith of* Forth. III. — Population. In 1755, the population of the parish was stated to be 761. Since that period it has been nearly doubled. The principal cause of its increase is to be attributed to the extension of the Fordel coal-works, and to several small feus, which have been granted by the proprietor on his lands in the neighbourhood of the colliery. The population in the southern division of the parish has greatly diminished of late. The old village of Dalgety, along with the parish school, and some other houses which were situated near the old church, have all been removed, as the properties in that neighbourhood have gradually come into the possession of the Earl of Moray, and have been thrown into his Lordship's exten- sive enclosures. The number of individuals residing in villages is as follows : At St David's, a small village on the sea cost, . 142 Hill End, only a small part of which is in the parish, . 43 At Crossgates, . . . . . 176 At Fordol Square, . . . . . . 141 Rows of Collier houses, ..... 798 Population of the parish in 1801, - 890 1811, - 816 18-21, - 912 1831, - 1300 There has been no obituary kept in the parish for the last fifty years. DALGETY, 189 The average number of marriages for the last seven years is . 11 persons under 15 years of age, . . . 540 betwixt 15 and 30, . . . 357 30 and 50, . . .248 50 and 70, . 118 upwards of 70, ... 37 Total 1300 Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 1 1 females above 45, . . 13 The average number of children in each family may be stated at . 4 The number of insane, blind, and dumb, ... 4 Number of families in the parish, - 253 chiefly employed in agriculture, - • 41 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - 39 Character, fyc. of the People. — The people in general are very sober and industrious. Those of them who are not employed in the coal-works consist principally of labourers and farm-servants. The colliers who compose such a large proportion of the parishioners are, with a few exceptions, the most sober and civilized of that class of the community any where to be found. They are quite a dis- tinct class from the agricultural population. Their prejudices, their domestic habits, and even their style of dress are altogether pecu- liar. So completely have they kept themselves apart, and so much have intermarriages prevailed, that for centuries back the same family names have generally obtained amongst them. The ame- liorated condition of the Fordel colliers, when compared with that of many others, is principally to be traced to the effects of educa- tion. Before the parish school was removed to their immediate neighbourhood, where it has been for upwards of thirty years, it was their uniform practice to maintain by subscription a teacher amongst themselves. This fact may be of some importance to those pro- prietors, many of whose colliers are so far behind the other classes of the community, both as regards general education and moral improvement. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Agriculture is generally in a very improved state in this parish. Its situation affords the farmer many advantages. There is abundance of lime in the neighbourhood. Fuel is very moderate in price, and manure to any extent can be obtained from Leith by water carriage. As the soil, especially toward the northern parts of the parish, is naturally wet, draining has been much resort- ed to, and with the most beneficial effects. Such a complete change have some of the lands on the estate of Fordel undergone that a farm, which twenty years ago brought only a rental of L. 15, now 190 F1FESHIUE. lets for L. 240. This estate has also been much improved and sheltered by extensive thriving plantations. There are about 40 acres of moss and swampy ground in the northern division of the parish, a part of which is grazed during the summer months. The number of acres in the parish which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage is about 1005. There are about 240 acres of wood. The average rent of land is from L. 2 to L. 3 per acre, and in the northern division from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2. Produce. — The average value of raw produce raised in the parish is the following : White crop, - - L. 4930 Pasture, - - - 1080 Hay, - - - 690 Potatoes, ... 1465 Turnips, - - 340 Salt- works, - - - 1600 Sales at Fordel colliery, - - 28000 Total yearly value of raw produce, - L. 380A6 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Towns. — The nearest market-town is Inverkeithing. There are no villages in the parish except the small shipping port of St David's. Ecclesiastical State. — A very handsome parish church was erect- ed in the year 1830. The style of the building is Gothic It is seated to accommodate 500 individuals. It does great honour to the liberality and taste of the heritors, being one of the most hand- some small country churches in Scotland ; and furnishes a proof of the great improvement which has lately taken place in the style of ecclesiastical architecture. It is more conveniently situated for some of the parishioners than the old church, which stood close to the sea side, while the most populous part of the parish is about four miles distant The site of the new church is about a mile to the north of the former one, close to the public road, which lies be- twixt Aberdour and Inverkeithing. It is still, however, about three miles from the great body of the parishioners. There are a number of individuals really attached to the Esta- blishment, who are thus unwillingly necessitated to become dissen- ters, on account of the inconvenient distance at which they are placed from the parish church. The old church is a very ancient building. It was for many years in a great state of disrepair, and was never well adapted, from its uncentrical situation, to be a place of worship for the parish. It stands about two miles from Donibristle House, close to the sea DALGETV. 1JM shore. It was formerly a Chapel of Ease to the monastery on the Island of Inch Colme, when the seat of the Earl of Moray be- longed to the abbots of that monastery. On one of the small gal- leries is rudely emblazoned the heraldric arms of the Earl of Dun- fermline, a family now extinct Chancellor Seaton, who was creat- ed Earl of Dunfermline in 1605, lies interred in a part of the area of the church, along with some other individuals of distinction. A substantial and well-finished new manse and offices have also been built within the last five years. They are situated on the glebe, and are a few minutes walk from the new church. The glebe is 12 acres in extent, and lets for about L. 1, 12s. per acre. The teinds of the parish are exhausted ; their amount is about 15 chal- ders. There are no dissenting chapels in the parish, and those of the parishioners who do not belong to the parish church, attend a Burgher meeting-house either at Inverkeithing or at Crossgates. The latter place is very conveniently situated for the colliers, being only about a mile distant from most of them. The number of in- dividuals attending the Established Church is about 400. Education. — There are two schools in the parish. The paro- chial schoolmaster has the maximum salary and the legal accom- modation. The other school is supported entirely by the fees of the scholars, and a free school-room. The expense of education at the parish school is, 8s. for reading; writing, 10s. ; and arith- metic, 12s., — which are the only branches taught There are no persons in the parish from six years and upwards who cannot read. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons upon the poor roll is from 25 to 30, and the sum distributed is from Is. to Is. 6d. per week. The annual disbursement is about L. 40. It does not appear that compulsory assessments have ever been intro- duced into this parish. The three heritors have been in the habit for a considerable period of assessing themselves to make up any deficiencies in the poors' funds. Besides the weekly collections, there is the interest of Lb 130 arising from legacies left by indivi- duals to the poor of the parish. Since the new church was open- ed, however, the weekly collections have been more than sufficient to meet all the demands upon the poor funds, though the number of paupers is rather upon the increase. The heritors had former- ly to contribute about L. 10 annually. At present the rare, though much-wished for state of things here obtains, viz. the voluntary Sabbath day offerings of the parishioners supporting all the poor, 192 FIFESHIRE. and the aged, and the infirm amongst them. This is principally to be assigned to the regularity of the attendance of the heritors , fa- milies, and of others, since a comfortable place of worship has been provided. The state of complete disrepair in which the old church remained for upwards of thirty years had the effect of alienating many individuals from the Establishment, who could easily obtain comfortable accommodation in the numerous dissenting chapels in the neighbourhood. And thus many who during life had week- ly contributed toward the support of a dissenting place of worship, and towards the maintenance of its poor, have themselves ultimate- ly become applicants for parochial relief. This has had the effect of greatly increasing the demand upon the heritors ; and had they not come forward and assessed themselves, and had not many cases of indigence been supplied by the private benevolence of the pro- prietor of the Fordel coal-works, this parish might long ere now have been subject to all the numerous evils which never fail to attend that self-increasing evil, a legal assessment, and from which, we trust, it is now in. the way of farther and farther re- ceding. And we are persuaded that in many country parishes this evil might have been prevented, had the non-resident heritors voluntarily contributed to the parish funds such a sum as might have been reasonably expected from them, had they been weekly in their places in the parish church. * Had this much to be depre- cated system ever been introduced into this parish, its principal cause must have been traced to the long period during which no suitable accommodation was provided for the people in their pa- rish church. Much evil results from want of due attention to the comfort of the parishioners in this respect. It not only increas- es the demand upon heritors to supply their diminished poors' funds, and may thus lead to the introduction of legal assessments, but it goes directly to foster those loose principles, and to induce those habits of idleness and dissipation which give rise to pauperism it- self. For an excuse is hereby furnished to the parishioners for withdrawing themselves from the salutary influence of the weekly lessons and ministrations of the gospel, which every enlightened mind will acknowledge are the most efficient of all means for pro- i * This statement is fully corroborated by an experiment made in one of the pa* rishes in East Lothian, where, by pursuing a plan somewhat similar to that which we have suggested, legal assessments were not only prevented, but actually abolished af- ter they had obtained a long and firm footing in the parish. — See an interesting work on this subject, entitled " Considerations addressed to the Heritors and Kirk- sessions of Scotland, 17 by the late Rev. W. Stark, Dirleton. DALGETY. 193 motkig industry, frugality, and prudence amongst our peasantry, and for cherishing that spirit of honest independence which will ever associate degradation with a state of pauperism. We cannot say that any disposition is evinced on the part of the people to re- frain from applying for parochial relief. A strict attention, how- ever, is paid to withholding assistance from those who have any pri- vate sources of charity from which supplies ought to be afforded them. Miscellaneous Observations. In a small parish like this, where there are only three proprie- tors, and where one-half of the parish. belongs to a single noble- man, few changes of any consequence have taken place within the last forty years. The effects of steam-navigation upon our popula- tion are very perceptible. In consequence of the increased faci- lities of communication with the metropolis, their original charac- ter has given place, in many respects, to the habits and tastes which more peculiarly distinguish those who are living in the immediate vicinity of a large town. Nothing would be of greater advantage to our coal population than a well-regulated savings bank. A want of prudence and foresight seems to be a very prominent feature in the character of colliers. However great may be their wages, they are sure to make their weekly expenditure keep pace with them. Any system, therefore, which would introduce habits of eco- nomy amongst them, might render our colliers the most indepen- dent and comfortable class of the labouring community. Revised June 1836. FIFE. n PARISH OF KINGLASSIE. PRESBYTERY OF KIRKALDY, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. J. M. CUNNYNGHAME, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — While some have supposed that the village after which the parish is called, derives its appellation from a spring denominated St Glass's Well, others, with apparently greater reason, have traced the name to Gaelic words signifying the head of gray land. This idea seems to be corroborated by the large extent of inundated, marshy, and mixed surface which, al- though much reduced from its former size, still stretches itself to the immediate vicinity of the village. The preferable conjecture concerning the derivation of the name acquires additional support from the circumstance, that a locality, somewhat elevated above the channel, along which the water runs from the swamp alluded to, has received the appropriate designation of Finglassie 9 signify- ing the termination of the gray land, or mixed bog. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish of Kinglassie, some- what irregular in figure, is computed to be about 5 miles and 3 furlongs long, by the road leading through the village from west to east The breadth varies from 1 mile to 3£. The total surface comprises about 5800 Scots acres. It is bounded on the east by the parishes of Markinch and Dvsart ; on the south by the latter, but chiefly by that of Auchterderran, also stretching along the western limits to the north-west corner, which is touched by parts of Portmoak and Ballingry ; and its northern extremity is washed by the Leven, on the opposite side of which the parishes of Portmoak and Leslie meet From this point of junction, Port- moak takes a small jutting to the south bank of the Leven. Topographical Appearances. — Three ridges, of varied height, steepness, and width, run towards the east, where they assume a lower elevation. From the northern limits, a very considerable acclivity arises, which extends along the whole length of the pa- rish. The lands of Goatmilk, situated on this range, contain two KINGLASSIE. 195 proximate hills of no very diminutive size. A square tower, 52 feet from the base, was erected, in the year 1812, on the summit of one of those heights, and marks at a great distance the hill of Red- wells, whose southern banks slope towards the village of Kinglas- sie, in a declivity of about 160 feet The ground on the south of the village, forming the middle parallel ridge, rises into a height of considerable, though somewhat inferior altitude, on both sides of which the surface gradually subsides into gentle inclinations or nar- row planes, whose elevation above the level of the sea is about 200 feet Soil and Climate. — Considerable varietv characterizes both the substratum and the surface. Clay, loam, and gravel are often in- termingled. The greater proportion of soil is strong close-bot- tomed clay. The remainder is chiefly diversified by moss and sand. Although some localities seem peculiarly subjected to stagnant damps, or exposed to the severities of the weather, yet, upon the whole, the climate is decidedly wholesome and desirable. Hydrography. — The Leven, proceeding from the renowned loch of that name in the north-west vicinity, runs eastward, and forms, as has been already mentioned, the northern boundary of the pa- rish. Bennarty hill, in the contiguous neighbourhood, sends forth a stream which, 'acquiring accession from Bog Lochty, the marshy ground to which allusion has been made, is known by the name of Lochty. This rivulet, intersecting the village of Kinglassie, glides along the dale situated betwixt the northern and midland heights. The Orr, which takes its rise from the loch in Ballin- gry parish, bearing that designation, traverses the southern level. These small waters can furnish the angler with perch, pike, and eels. They empty themselves into the Leven at a very small distance beyond the eastern boundary of the parish. A diminutive streamlet called Sauchie, which pervades a few fields in the immediate vi- cinity of the village, speedily joins Lochty. There are many springs, both perennial and occasional. Mineralogy. — Although, at no very remote period, coal-works were in operation, yet during several preceding years that occupa- tion has been entirely suspended within the parish. There is rea- son to believe, however, that were coal pits less numerous in the neighbourhood, a copious supply of this fossil could be obtained. In various parts, ironstone, the constant companion of coal, is found. Limestone was lately wrought on a moderate scale. Whin- stone rock is very abundant: indeed, with rare exceptions, the whole 196 F1FESHIRE. soil overlays it. Freestone quarries have been opened. Red rotten rock prevails in one or two small localities. Zoology. — Deer are found in the parish. Pheasants are plenti- ful. The woodcock takes up his abode during the winter months. The fowl familiarly called the cock of the north is generally con- sidered as the forerunner of stormy weather. IL — Civil History. Land-owners, Sfc. — In a strictly literal sense, there are 15 pro- prietors, from whose lands the minister's stipend is levied. But as one estate is the joint property of the four family representatives of the antecedent owner, the number of heritors may be said to be 12. The principal of these, in point of valued and real rental, are Robert Ferguson of Raith, Esq. ; the elder son, a minor, of the deceased John Aytoun of Inchdairnie, Esq. ; Lieutenant-Ge- neral Balfour of Balbirnie ; and the Right Honourable the Earl of Rothes, patron. There are numerous feudal possessions, the more ancient of which generally pay to the superior the yearly ac- knowledgment of 7£d. per fall, or Lb 5 per acre ; while those of recent grant are held at the advanced rate of Is. per fall, or L. 8 per acre. The feus in the village, amounting to about 40, hold of General Balfour, who, by ancestral purchase, is proprietor of various lands, which belonged to William Aytoun Douglas, Esq. Eminent Men. — To those who are conversant with the his- torical circumstances connected with the origin of the Secession church, the name of the Rev. John Currie cannot be unknown. That devout man was inducted to the pastoral charge of this parish, on the 28th September 1705, and died on the 22d Sep- tember 1765, in the ninety-second year of his age, and within a few days of the completion of the sixtieth year of his minis- try. He was the intimate friend and epistolary correspondent of Ebenezer and Ralph Erskine, who were both grieved and astonished that they could not persuade him to act in accord, ance with those views of ecclesiastical discipline and economy which had led them and others to renounce subjection to the judi- catories of the national religious establishment His opinions con- cerning the popular prerogative in regard to the election of Chris- tian pastors are set forth in a treatise designated " Vox Populi vox Dei." — Whatever estimate may be formed of that production, or of other writings which emanated from his pen, it is undeniable that the venerable author was eminently characterized by the purity and simplicity of his manners, and by the pious and affectionate as- 4 K1NGI.ASSIE. 197 siduity which accompanied the discharge of his pastoral duties. During the last fifteen years of his life, his ministerial labours were lightened, and his tottering steps sustained by the faithful and un- wearied services of his son William, who had been ordained assist- ant and successor on the 13th March 1750. In less than five years the son, after a protracted illness, followed the father to the grave, in the forty-ninth year of his age. Antiquities. — A pillar of hewn stone, 4 feet 9 inches in height above the socket in which it is embossed, 1\ inches broad, and 1 1 inches thick, has, from time immemorial, stood upon the farm of Dogtown. It bears the remaining marks of some hieroglyphical emblems or ornamental sculpture in relief, which have been defa- ced by the " peltings of the pitiless storm," or the rude touch of de- structive man. Antiquarians have conjectured that this column was set up by the Danes, to commemorate the exploits of some il- lustrious warrior who had fallen on the spot, during an engage- ment consequent upon their hostile invasion of Fife, in the reign of Constantine II. ; while others have supposed that it was rear- ed by the Scots to perpetuate their successful resistance of the foreign foe, who had encamped on both sides of the Leven. We learn from the page of the historian, that those depredators hav- ing been prevented from uniting their forces, in consequence of the sudden and extensive swelling of the river, were speedily and effectually routed by the Scots. Goat-milk-hill constituted one of the links in the chain of Danish forts, which stretched from Fifeness to Stirling. While those positions were occupied by the invaders, a mill was erected on the Leven, which retains the name of Mill-danes. During the recent operations of levelling the chan- nel of that water, several heads of iron spears, a Roman sword, and battle-axe presented themselves. A dagger of antique appear- ance, 18 inches long, having a wooden handle, partially overlaid with brass, was lately found in a draw-well on the farm of west Finglassie, which was reopened after having remained shut, so far as can be ascertained, for centuries. Parochial Registers. — The most remote records of baptisms and sessional procedure bear the date of a. d. 1627. Those of mar- riage contracts commence twenty years subsequent to that period. Instead of classification having been always duly observed, there is an occasional commingling of matters belonging to these separate de- partments. Unless by those familiar with obsolete manuscripts, some of the ancient registers are not legible. For many years past, 198 FIFESHIRE. discipline proceedings, births, marriages, and poors' funds have had each their distinct and appropriate register. IIL— Population. The official report of Dr Webster, eighty years ago, states that the total number of inhabitants then amounted to 998. The Parlia- mentary census of 1821 represents the population at 1027; and that of 1831 at 958, of whom there are 488 males, and 470 fe- males. According to this last return, there are 224 families resi- dent under 198 roofs. Of those families, 66 are employed in agriculture; 153 in manufactures, trade, and handicraft; and 5 in other avocations. It may not be irrelevant to mention, that, during a course of pastoral visitation, which was made in the months of February and March of the present year, when a mi- nute numerical survey was taken, the total population was ascertain- ed to be 1050 souls. Of that number, 755 are above twelve years of age, and 295 have not yet reached that period. Resident Heritors. — The country seat of one of the principal heritors is usually occupied by himself and family during one-half of the year. With this exception, and that of a small proprietor, there are no residing heritors. The annual average of births during the last seven years has been about 26; deaths, 13; of marriages, 11. Character and Habits of the People. — Sobriety, industry, and respect for religion are qualities, which, with few exceptions, mark the great mass of the population. Considerable attention is paid to neatness of dress and cleanliness of personal appearance. And in such estimation is neatness of apparel held, that the want of rai- ment equal in quality to that of a next door neighbour is, in some instances, viewed as a valid apology for absence from church, not only when there exists no decided disinclination, but, on the contrary, a seeming anxiety to attend. While a commendable regard to per- sonal and domestic spruceness is often observable, yet some of those families and individuals occasionally discover a neglect of various essential branches of comfort and convenience. Now and then the stagnant puddle and the nauseous dunghill form a striking contrast to the interior aspect of the contiguous dwelling. — On old handsel Monday, there is a general cessation of professional labour; neighbourly visits are interchanged, and raffles are practised. During the three years preceding the 1st June last, the number of illegitimate births in the parish was 9. KINGLASSIE. 199 • IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish contains about 34 farms, the largest of which amounts in whole to 377 Scots acres. No other ex- ceeds 234 Three of these are below 60 acres. Smaller portions of land are also occupied upon nineteen years leases. Besides, two farms, whose steadings are beyond its limits, stretch themselves into the parish. Such has been the encouragement given by considerate and liberal landlords to skilful and industrious tenants, that the quantity of ground now brought under the plough can scarcely be estimated below 5200 Scots acres. 356 acres are covered with thriving plantations. The remaining 244 are unarable, being either overlaid with rock, steep on the surface, or laid out in roads. Not- withstanding the difficulties which discourage improvements, a con- siderable deal of soil might, with a profitable application of capital, be added to the cultivated land, or to that which is already covered with wood. The prevailing trees are larch, spruce, fir, and ash. One considerable plantation abounds with excellent beech and oak. Rent — As variety characterises the soil, a diversity of rents like- wise obtains. The extreme rates at which land is let per Scots acre are, L. 1 and L. 3, 15s. It is a small proportion, however, which is leased at either of these sums; L. 1, 9s. 9d. per Scots acre may be considered as the average rent of arable ground. Pasturage for a cow generally costs L. 3, 10s., and that for a sheep L. 1, 5s. Grass parks usually bring about L. 2 per acre. Draining. — During the last twenty years nearly 300 acres have been reclaimed. The cultivators of the soil have of late been par- ticularly careful in drawing off that superabundance of moisture which is so inimical to the production of healthy and luxuriant crops. In practical attention to this department of rural economy, the late Mr Aytoun of Inchdairnie was very active, judicious, and successful. The depth of the close drains made under his direc- tion was determined by the nature of the soil which they were in- tended to improve. Some of those on strong clay are eight feet below the surface. Livestock, fyc. — Almost the whole cattle are of the pure Fife breed, of which the black horned are the most prevalent The number of calves annually reared may be estimated at 300. In regard to farm-steadings, material improvements have taken place. Towards their tenantry, landlords have in this and other respects manifested a judicious and benevolent regard. With very rare exceptions, the different farms have thrashing- 200 FIFESHIUE. mills attached ; three of these are propelled by water, and one by steam. This last, seven horse power, has been in operation two years. Iron ploughs are almost universally used* The mode of hus- bandry varies according to circumstances. Some farmers apportion their land in the following ratio : two-sevenths, oats ; one-seventh wheat and barley; one-seventh green crop and summer fellow; three-sevenths grass pastured, sometimes for three years. One boll is the usual quantity of oats and wheat allotted to the Scots acre, from which the return is often tenfold. Three firlots constitute the ordinary measure of barley sown on the acre, which not seldom issue in the production of ten bolls. The rearing of flax, which for a series of years had been very much given up, has of late become more frequent and remunerative. Three mills are employed in manufacturing this article. . Rate of Wages. — A male farm-servant who is married usually receives as his anual payment L. 11 or L. 12 in money, 6± bolls of meal, and about a Scots pint of milk daily, together with the use of a dwelling house and a small garden plot. The additional privilege of twenty-four falls of potatoe ground is, in most cases, enjoyed. Full-grown young men are often hired on nearly the same pecuniary terms as the former, and receive their victuals in their master's house. The ordinary wages of a domes- tic female servant are L. 5, 10s. Harvest reapers are almost al- ways engaged in the course of the preceding winter, and become bound to remain with their respective employers twenty-four law- ful days, or until the labours peculiar to autumn shall be complet- ed. The rate at which a man is hired for that season is commonly L. 2, 10s., and a woman L. 1, 10s. or L. 1, 15s. with lodging aud victuals. Shearers whose houses are at hand receive a little more money. The highest pay given to a male is L. 9» and to a female L. 2. A hay-cutter earns 2s. 6cL daily. The summer hire of an ordinary labourer is Is. 8d. ; women employed in field labour usu- ally gain 9d. Produce. — Grain of all kinds, ..... L. 14970 Potatoes, turnips, &c. - 4080 Hay, whether meadow or cultivated, .... 2500 Flax, . . . . . . 270 Land in pasture, rating it at L.3, 10s per cow or full-grown ox, graft- ed, or that may be grazed for the season ; — at L. 1, 5s. per ewe or full-grown sheep, pastured, or that may be pastured for the year, . 2032 10 Gardens and orchards, . • . . 180 Annual and periodical thinning of woods, plantations, and copse, . 536 Total yearly value of raw produce raised . . L. 24568 10 KINGLASSIE. 201 V. — Parochial Economy. Village and Means of Communication. — The only village in the parish is that of Kinglassie, whose present population is 375. Its inhabitants consist principally of weavers, and other handicraft tradesmen. About twenty-four looms are now in use, — several of which are plied by females. The comparatively small income arising from that occupation induced, of late years, a considerable proportion of men to exchange it for agricultural employments. There are 3 public-houses, and the same number of small gro- cery shops. Brewing of small-beer, ale, and porter is regularly carried on. Bread and butcher-meat are constantly supplied by professional tradesmen. Two fairs occur in the course of the year ;— one on the third Wednesday of May, old style; the other on the Thursday immediately preceding Michaelmas, old style. An agricultural association, formed upwards of ^twenty years ago, holds its annual meeting here in the month of August. It consists of about forty practical farmers ; and its objects are countenanced by the membership of several landed proprietors. Last season there were exhibited 110 head of cattle and 43 horses. The village lies about six miles to the northward of Kirkaldy, which is the post-town. Communication with that burgh is enjoy- ed by means of several individuals, whose business as carriers re- peatedly leads them thither in the course of the week. Easy ac- cess to metal has, in connection with other circumstances, produ- ced a very material improvement on the state of the principal roads. But although much «has been done in this respect, it must be con- fessed, that not a little remains unaccomplished. There are no toll- bars within the parochial precincts. The east end of the parish is intersected by the road leading from Kirkaldy to Cupar, on which coaches betwixt Edinburgh and Dundee run daily. It has lately been aleo traversed regularly by a coach betwixt the metropolis and Perth. There are about twelve small stone bridges. Ecclesiastical State. — The only place of public worship is the parish church. Situated within a mile of the south-west boundary, and distant several miles from a considerable proportion of the po- pulation, its locality subjects not a few to great inconvenience. But although some parishioners are so remote as nearly five miles ; yet as the village, where the church is placed, contains a third of the population, and as its immediate vicinity is interspersed with seve- ral agricultural hamlets, the ecclesiastical edifice may, upon the whole, be viewed as standing in the most eligible spot. The 202 FIFESHIRE. exterior of the fabric has a heavy appearance, beings nearly 90 feet long, and of very subordinate and disproportionate dimensions in height and breadth. The east gable, and part of the contigu- ous side walls are supposed to have stood for at least two centuries. The remainder was rebuilt in 1773, when the whole received a new roof. For many subsequent years, however, the church con- tinued with unplastered walls, and without any ceiling. About fif- teen years ago, the inside underwent such repairs as have render- ed it a very comfortable place of worship. There are sittings for nearly 350. The pews are allocated among the heritors accord- ing to their respective valued rents, and are occupied, without any pecuniary remuneration, by tenants, feuars, and other classes of persons. A distinct appropriation of a greater number of sittings for such parishioners as are not connected with landed proprietors by any peculiar tie would certainly be beneficial ; — for it cannot be denied, that, although no seat rents are exacted or paid, yet the fear of being viewed as unwelcome intruders, by those who have obtained a previous occupancy, may sometimes operate as a dis- couragement of regular attendance. Fully four-fifths of the peo- ple professedly belong to the Established Church. Of these about 350 are communicants. The dissenting or seceding portion of the population are generally connected either with the United Se- cession church, or with the religious denomination adhering to the Associate Synod of Original Seceders. A very limited number are of the Relief and Baptist persuasions. The manse, which is hard by the church, was built in 1774, and was repaired in 1818. The glebe contains a little more than 6 Scots acres. The stipend, augmented in 1823, is 15 ch al- ders of victual, half meal and half barley, payable according to the highest county fiars. The sum of L. 8, 6s. 8d. is paid under the name of communion element money. • The parochial register of 1682 acknowledges the receipt of four silver communion cups as the donation of Mr Melvill, formerly mi- nister of this parish. Those cups are still used in the celebration of the sacrament of the Lord's Supper. Each bears the following inscription : — " Haec quatuor pocula ejusdem ponderis et mensu- rae ecclesiae de Kinglassie sacravit Mr Thomas Melvill non ita, pridem pastor ibidem." Education. — The parochial school is situated in the village. • The teinds of Kinglassie were, a. n. 1234, mortified by the Bishop of St An . drews, " Deo St Margaretc et monachis de Dunfermline," as the records of that abbacy bear. KINLGASSIE. 203 Besides the maximum salary, amounting to L. 34, 4s. 4£d., along with a dwelling-house and garden, the schoolmaster annually re- ceives six bolls of oats, the bequest of an ancient proprietor. This seminary is at present attended by about 100 scholars. The or- dinary branches of education, including English grammar and the elementary principles of general knowledge, are taught with dili- gence and ability. Means of instruction in mathematics and clas- sical learning are also furnished. The principles of revealed re- ligion are sedulously instilled. Forty are employed in arithmetic, 20 more are learning to write. The teacher may receive about L. 34 a-year of fees. * The village has also a small female school, in which knitting and sewing are taught for a very moderate sum. On the southern boundary, there is a school, which is pretty well attended. Its erection proceeded from the kindness of Mr Fer- guson of Raith, who has allotted to its teacher a free dwelling- house and garden, with a yearly pecuniary allowance. So commendably desirous are parents of furnishing their chil- dren with the means of education, that there is hardly an instance in which an individual beyond six years of age is unable to read more or less accurately. To the same praiseworthy feeling, is to be ascribed the comparatively small number among the youthful portion of the population, altogether unskilled in the arts of writ- ing and arithmetic Children are usually sent to school about five years of age ; although in several instances, distance of locality and badness of roads forbid that early initiation. But in these and other cases, some elementary training is for the most part practis- ed at home. A Sabbath school in the village is numerously attended, and judiciously conducted. Library. — Access to a small parochial library is obtainable at a very moderate rate ; and through the generosity of a benevolently disposed lady, the youth belonging to the village Sunday school are gratuitously furnished with the weekly perusal of interesting and instructive books. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Various individuals receive a fixed monthly aliment, others get only occasional aid, and several house • The schoolmaster lately retired from the charge of the school on account of his advanced age ; but is secured for life in the enjoyment of the legal salary, and of the house and garden. He is entitled to the trifling sums which arise from making up the Parliamentary census and registering voters for a Member of Parliament. The acting teacher, beside the school fees, receives from the heritors annually L. 20, and draws the fiars price of the six bolls of oats to which reference has been made. 204 F1FESH1RE. rents are annually paid, in whole or in part The first of these classes is composed at present of 12 families, more or less nu- merous, and requiring of course different degrees of pecuniary re- lief. Temporary supplies are afforded to others when visited with sickness, or otherwise deprived of the means of earning a liveli- hood. This description of beneficiaries generally comprises about 15 families. On these different objects of parochial charity, about L. 72 communibus annis are laid out in the course of the year. The funds from which the poor receive relief arise from church door collections, land, marriages, mortcloths, erection of tomb- stones, and interest on bank deposits. As the means of supply are very much strengthened by the second of these sources, the weekly contributions (not generally amounting to L. 13 per annum) are less liberal than in other circumstances they would be. Although the pa- rishioners are the reverse of wealthy, yet handsome sums have been collected at church for pious and benevolent purposes. The land- ed property, to which reference has been made, lies in the parish of Abernethy, Perthshire, and was purchased in the year 1726 for 6600 merks. What rent was paid at that period is not exactly as- certained ; but in terms of a tack granted in 1 762, it was fixed at 200 merks. It was subsequently raised to L. 36, and afterwards to L. 50, with the additional obligation of discharging public burdens to an amount somewhat exceeding L. 6. The immediately succeeding lease of the poors' farm, extending to nineteen years from Martinmas 1 835, stipulates that the tenant shall annually pay L. 1 00, and advance the various legal assessments due from the land, for which, on the production of discharges, he is entitled to discount out of the rent. As these imposts are considerable, and as the joint administrators for the poor incurred great expense in building a dwelling-house and stone fences, and in otherwise enhancing the value of the pro- perty, the pecuniary return has been much abridged. Beside emer- gencies, the regular annual drawbacks on the farm amount to about L. 10. The only marriage fee payable to the poors' fund is 2s. when the bride's residence is within the parish. Three parish mort- cloths are severally lent at 5s., 3s. 6d., and 2s. The united sa- laries of synod, presbytery, and session-clerks, precentor, and kirk- officer amount to L. 10, 10s. In several instances of known or suspected indigence, a strong aversion to receive parochial aid has been occasionally evinced, — while, in cases less urgent, a very different spirit has appeared. DUNBOG. 205 Miscellaneous Observations. Among the many improvements which have taken place since the last Statistical Account was drawn up, — the great accession made to the cultivated land, — the appropriation of unproductive wastes to valuable plantations, and the increased attention paid to draining, are deserving of high commendation. In consequence of the recent deepening and widening of the Leven water- course, the circumjacent soil has been rendered far less suc- culent, and more susceptible of melioration. Similar beneficial alterations are in progress on a part of the Lochty. Although there is no savings' bank in the parish, yet some individuals with laudable prudence and propriety, deposit a portion of their earn- ings in some of those excellent institutions which happily exist in the vicinity. June 1836. PARISH OF DUNBOG. PRESBYTERY OF. CUPAR, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. ADAM CAIRNS, D.D. MINISTER I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of the parish is variously written in the an-* cient records as Dinbug, Denbuig, Dunbog, Dunbolg, and Dun- boig. It is evidently of Celtic derivation, and may be translated " the bog of the hill" Like all Celtic names, it is descriptive of the general character of the district Within the memory of man, the low-lying part of the parish was an extensive marsh, which ran along the base of the highest hill in the north of Fife, anciently denominated Dunmore, or the great hill, though now known by the Saxon name Norman's Law. The Gaelic appellation, how- ever, is still given to the property to which the mountain belongs, and from this we infer that Dunbog is the original and correct name of the parish. Extent, Boundaries. — The parish of Dunbog is of irregular figure and diminutive extent It ranges from south-east to north-west, . its greatest length not exceeding 4 miles ; its ex- treme breadth being about 1£, and its least not more, perhaps, 206 FIFESHIRE. than half a mile. On the north it is* bounded by the parish of Flisk; on the east by a section of Abdie ; on the south by Mom- mail ; and on the west by Abdie. Topographical Appearances. — The parish consists of two ridges or prolongations of two chains of hills that intersect this portion of Fife ; and of the valley enclosed between them. The north- ern ridge is a continuation of Norman's -law. It is cultivated to the top, and produces every description of grain of excellent quality. From the farm-house of Higham, which is perched on the summit, it descends precipitously to the level carse land that borders the Tay from Newburgh to Birkhill, and which is gene- rally known by the name of the Barony. A narrow stripe of Dun- bog parish reaches the banks of the river, to the westward of Balinbriech Castle, and is called Higham Plouts. From any point of this northern elevation, the prospect that meets the view is of equal grandeur and beauty. The eye from this commanding po- sition takes in a vast extent of country, diversified with all the fea- tures of the most interesting scenery, on a scale of unusual mag- nitude. The rugged Grampians fill up the horizon to the north, towering above the intervening range of the Sidlaws, which form the southern boundary of Strathmore. To the westward, the eye follows the windings of the Tay, till it is lost behind a projecting shoulder of the hill of Kinnoul, and surveys almost with the same glance the valley of the Earn intersected by its shining river. Opposite, is spread out the Carse of Gowrie, smooth and level as a floor, and confessedly one of the most fertile districts of Great Britain ; and to the east appears the flourishing town of Dundee, and the Tay, now increased to an estuary, mingling its waters with those of the German Ocean. The southern ridge, again, is, at least in the parish of Dunbog, of greater altitude than the one to the north. Generally speak- ing, it is uncultivated and almost barren. Patches of it have in- deed, of late years, been brought under tillage by the use of bone manure ; but improvement in this way seems to be carried as far as nature will allow ; the prevailing character of the hill being rocky and sterile. The greatest, and perhaps the only, improve- ment of which these dreary heights are susceptible, is that which would be accomplished by planting them with wood ; and it is im- possible not to regret, and that deeply, that this very obvious and simple improvement had not been attended to long ago. The val- ley included between these hills is composed of excellent soil, pro- 3 DUN DOG. 207 during abundant crops of wheat, barley, oats. What was former* ly a noxious morass is now good and valuable land. The exact elevation of the hills above the level of the sea has not been as- certained with perfect accuracy, but the extreme height is comput- ed to be about 500 feet. The climate is mild and salubrious, and no better proof of this can be adduced than the robust health of the inhabitants, and the great old age to which many of them attain. Geology and Mineralogy. — The hills and the basin that lies be- tween them are composed of whinstone or trap rock. The dip of such parts as have been exposed to view is nearly vertical. On the very summit of the hill, rolled blocks of granite are met with, some of them of considerable size. In the valley, the whinstone is covered by a rich black mould of no great depth, and through which the rock pierces in numerous places, forming barren spots, or snobs, in the midst of the best fields. The greatest portion of the soil in the parish is of this sort, resting immediately on the rock, or on a bed of gravel interposed. We have indeed a few fields of a clay- ey texture, and towards the east the soil becomes of much sharper quality, though equally productive. From the nature of the subsoil, the ground is easily drained, and is therefore dry and early. A considerable part of the arable ground consists of the reclaimed bog. This great improvement was effected about thirty years ago by the united contributions of the proprietors through whose do- mains it ran. Previous to the execution of this measure, an exten- sive tract of ground was covered with brushwood, with large stag- nant pools of bog water ; and in the more favourable spaces, with a coarse and rank grass, which afforded a scanty nourishment to the few half-starved cattle that waded about in search of subsistence. It is now converted into fruitful corn-fields. The soil, however, is soft or mossy, and not well qualified for growing wheat The sub- soil is various. In some places, it is cold clay, in others a hard till, but generally it is composed of sand and gravel. In this mossy soil, there are still found pieces of oak trees, black as ebony, but other- wise in a state of excellent preservation, and which must in all pro- bability have lain there for many centuries. Zoology. — There is nothing remarkable in the zoology of this parish. It may perhaps be worthy of notice that a pair of starlings built their nest and brought out their young last summer in the shrubbery of Dunbog House* The young birds were taken from the nest, when nearly fledged, and are still alive in the neighbour- 208 FIFESHIRK. hood, amusing their captors with their mimic song. A few years ago, a fine specimen of the Strixjlammea, or white owl, was caught in this vicinity, and is now stuffed and in possession of the author. It is so very rare in this quarter, that no person could give it a name, or say they had ever seen such a bird before. The speci- men, however, though full-grown, is evidently a young bird ; and we have no doubt that the white owl, which is very common in many parts of England, and not by any means a stranger in Scot- land, had bred in the woods both of Dunbog and Aytori, when there was more shelter for it than there is now. A few roe -deer frequent the hills and plantations, and are known to breed hdre ; but they are so destructive to the young corns that they will not be permitted to increase to any extent Besides these, we have the usual sorts of game, but not in such abundance as to hurt the in- terests of the farmer. Botany. — There is very little wood in the parish. Did it pos- sess the benefit of a resident proprietor, this glaring defect would speedily be remedied. The greater portion of the parish belongs to Lord Dundas, who has of course little personal interest in or- namental improvement But it is impossible to look on the naked hills, overrun with gorse and bracken, without indulging a wish to see them clothed and beautified with forest trees. In their present state, they are comparatively worthless, but were they covered with wood, they would not only become of much greater value to the proprietors in the course of a few years, but they would afford shel- ter both to the flocks and subjacent fields, and sensibly ameliorate the climate. At no distant period, the valley of Dunbog was pretty well wooded ; but now little remains except within the pleasure ground of the old mansion-house. Even there, the trees are ra- pidly decaying, and a few years more will witness their total disap- pearance. The kinds that seem to thrive best are the plane, the ash, and the elm. II. — Civil History. The only historical notice of this parish that we are acquainted with, is contained in Sibbald's History of Fife, first published in 1682. In a book entitled " Reliquiae Divi Andreae," by Martine of Clermont, who appears" to have been secretary to Archbishop Sharpe, there are allusions to persons and places in the parish, which are of some use in illustrating its condition at that distant time. Family of Barclay of Collairney. — The most ancient and ho- nourable name connected with the history of Dunbog is that of the family of Barclay, who seem to have been proprietors DUNBOG. 209 of Collairney for many ages— it is presumed, for not less a pe- riod than 500 years. We find in a list of the Lords of the Re- galities within Fife in the reign of Charles IL, that Barclay of Collairney was heritable bailie of the regality of Lindores, while the other jurisdictions were in the hands of the Marquis of Tweeddale, Lords Balmerino and Anstruther, and Sir Tho- mas Hope of Craighall. The possession of this office implied the existence. of great personal influence or high rank, while it con- ferred civil authority of the most varied and extensive description. This once powerful family is now extinct ; their name is scarcely known. About forty years ago, the estate was purchased from the last of the Barclays, by the late Dr Francis Balfour of Fernie, whose son inherits it at the present moment The Castle of Col- lairney is now in ruins, though enough remains to attest its origi- nal magnitude. In the only tower that has survived the wreck of time, and the despoiling hand of modern improvement, there are two small rooms, the roofs of which are divided into numerous com- partments, in which are painted in vivid colours the armorial bear- ings of the old chivalry of Scotland. The mottos as well as the devices of a few are yet distinctly legible. But it cannot be ex- pected that they will remain long uneffaced, as no sufficient care can be now taken to preserve them from perishing. In the ap- pendix to Sibbald's history,- there is a list of those natives of Fife who had risen to distinction in literature or science. Among others he mentions " the famous William Barclay, (father of John,) Pro- fessor of the Laws at Angiers, who derives his pedigree from Bar- clay of Collairney in this shire." Estate of Dunbog.— The next place of consequence in the parish is the estate and mansion-house of Dunbog. This pro- perty formed in remote times a part of the extensive barony of Balinbriech, which belonged to the family of Rothes. It subse- quently passed into the hands of Lord Home. In the reign of James IV., Alexander Lord Home sold it to David Bethune of XMech, in whose family it remained till 1658, when it was sold to James Bethune of Balfour, an elder branch of the same house. After passing through several other hands, it was purchased in 1694 by Major Henry Balfour of Starr, who forfeited in the Re- bellion of 1715. It was restored, however, to his son, and finally disposed of in 1766, to Sir Lawrence Dundas, to whose descend- ant Lord Dundas it now belongs, and again forms a part of the barony of Balinbriech. The vulgar tradition of the country as- fife. o 210 FIFESHIRE. signs the building of the house to Cardinal Bethune of St Andrews. There is every reason to believe that it was erected by a Bethune of Balfour, of which house the celebrated Cardinal was a mem- ber. But as a decided proof that neither the Cardinal nor his uncle David Bethune, his predecessor in the archbishoprick, and who was also a son of one of the lairds of Balfour, had any thing to do with the erection of the mansion-house of Dunbog, it is suf- ficient to state, that the Cardinal was put to death in 1546, nearly a century before this property came into the possession of his fa- mily. Long before the time of which we now speak, the - monks of the abbacy of Balmerino had a small building or preceptory on the site of the present house of Dunbog. It was called the pre- ceptory of Gadvan, tenanted in general by two or three of the brotherhood, whose chief occupation we presume to have been the culture of some 24 acres of ground attached to their cell. A small portion of this land is comprehended in the glebe — but it is principally laid out in the garden and enclosures of Dunbog. Sib- bald mentions also, that the parish church of Dunbog was given by Alexander Cumin Earl of Buchan, to the abbacy of Aber- brothock, in the reign of King Alexander II. There was a con- siderable village here, in which a weekly market was held within the memory of man. But it has totally vanished before the rapid extension of the farming system. The parish is divided among three proprietors, — Lord Dundas, Balfour of Fernie, and Joseph Francis Murray of Ayton. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers extend no far- ther back than the year 1666. The first entry is dated September 23d of that year. . From that period they have been kept with to- lerable accuracy. The records are not very full, but they are sometimes interesting, as illustrative of the manners of a former age, of the comprehensive charity and national usefulness of the Established Church. It is impossible to glance over them without a feeling of surprise, at the frequency and largeness of parochial contributions to a great variety of benevolent purposes. Not sa- tisfied with the comfortable maintenance of their own poor, — with relieving every unfortunate person that applied to them for a little aid,— rwith paying their proportion of the expense incurred by the education and support of the presbytery bursar, — we find the ses- sion sending collections to the most distant parts of Scotland, to assist in repairing the damage occasioned by fire,) at that time a very frequent disaster,) in alleviating the misery of the victims of such calamities, — in building or improving harbours, bridges, and public DUNBOG. 211 works of a like nature,— -and in ransoming those of our countrymen who had been carried into a terrible slavery by the Sallee rovers or Turkish corsairs. Towards the close of the seventeenth century we find such entries as the following : " Given out to ane indigent gentle- man 6 B. Given to ane dumb man 4 B. Given to ane poor sojer 1 B. A collection for ane Pollonian minister 4 B. Given to a ship- broken man 4 B. To ane indigent gentlewoman 10 R To a de«- posed minister's wife 6 B. To a distressed minister L. 1, 8s. To ane Episcopal minister called James Spark, who came from Ire- land, 12 B. To Mr John Constantine, a Neapolitan and Ca- puchin friar, who had renounced Poperie, as he said, 12 B. To a suppliant John Lauder, 12 B, having lost 25,000 merks in ane ship coming from France to Greenock." Of another sort, we have such entries as these : " 1671. Given to John Rule and John Cunninham, two men that had their houses burnt at Sligo, 12 sh. 1675, De- cember 25, a voluntary contribution for rebuilding of the town of Kelso, which was burnt down." Some years after a collection is made to assist in rebuilding Newburgh, which had been burnt down. The instances of relief granted to individual sufferers by fire are almost without number. Of a class still more interest- ing, we may venture to give a few specimens. " In 1 678, February 10, the minister did intimate a voluntar contribution this day eight days for the relief of some Montrose seamen taken by the Turks." Again, October 3d, 1680, " There was two acts read for a voluntar contribution, the one in favour of John Atchison, skipper in Pittenweem, his mate, Alexander Black, ten mariners and two passengers, taken by Turkish men of war, and carried up to Sallee and there ever since slaves. The other in favour of Robert Angus, skipper in Burntisland, who was taken by a Turkish man of war belonging to Algiers and was kept as a slave since/' — The Bar* bary corsairs seem to have been the terror and scourge of British sailors in the seventeenth century. A few years in advance we fall on the traces of a new enemy. " 1707, July 20, Given to George Hamilton, a man taken by the French pirates, and retaken by the Dutch, and who had five children, 1 Osh." Again " November 80, this day there was given to James Forbes and his wife, in their distress, they being robbed by the French pirates, 12 R" But it is curious and instructive to remark how effectually the church was made to promote the general interests of the country. For example, in 1677, September 16, the minister "read an order of the privy-council, for a contribution this day eight days, for help- 212 FIFESHIBE. ing the harbour of Eyemouth." Again, in 1682, " A voluntary con- tribution is ordered for building a stone bridge over the water of Ness, at Inverness." And again in the same year, we find three acts of the privy-council quoted, ordering collections in favour of " the harbour at Burntisland, to repair it ; in favour of Dumbarton, to erect a bridge across the water of Leven ; and in favour of my Lord Pitsligo, for repairing the harbour at ." There are many more of the same kind ; but the above will amply suffice to 6hew the many practical benefits the church has been the instru- ment of conferring on almost every town and sea-port of our na- tive land. It was the practice in the seventeenth century for par- ties intending to be married, to enter into a public contract, and to deposit with the kirk-session a sum of money in pledge of their sincerity and good behavour. The form observed is record- ed with amusing simplicity. As, for instance, " Contracted George Brewhouse and Helen Kinloch, and consigned their pledges ac- cording to order, that they should marry within the space of forty days, and carry themselves civillee till their marriage." It did happen occasionally that the pledges were forfeited for lack of the requisite civility, and sometimes too for other reasons, as, for instance, on the 28th of February 1675, there is given to the bursar " be Andro Law, 4 lbs. being his daughter's pledge, which was given because of her fail in not taking of William Buist in mar- riage, after being thrice proclaimed." The oldest register is lull of proclamations, read by order of the King and Council, which forcibly mark the unquiet aspect of the times, and the grow- ing jealousy of the government, as the eventful era of the Revolu- tion approached. We shall conclude this branch of our account, by extracting an entry of a peculiar interest: " 1678> May 18, a proclamation was read from the pulpit by the minister, ordaining the whole heritors within the parish to cause their tenants, cottars, servants, and all others on their grounds to compear at Cupar on Friday the 23d of May instant, to clear and vindicate themselves from the late murder of my Lord Archbishop of St Andrews." III. — Population. The population of this parish has gradually but regularly de- clined since the end of the last century. At that time the popu- lation was nearly 400. By the census of 1831, it amounted to no more than 195, and this year it has been reduced to 170 of all ages, which we sincerely hope will prove its minimum. This rapid decrease is to be attributed to the extinction of the village ; and DUNBOG. . 213 the absorption of the small farms. There is now only one farm where formerly there were three or four. That the depopulating system has been carried much too far is now painfully evident to every one connected with agriculture. The farmers not only experience a difficulty in procuring labourers to work the green crop, but they find it impossible to get them at any price, and must have recourse to some unusual means of obtaining an adequate sup- ply. The average number of births since my induction does not exceed 8 per annum ; of marriages not more than 4 ; of deaths about the same number. Number of persons under 1 5 years of age, 67 between 15 and 30, . 25 30 and 50, . 55 50 and 70, .12 upwards of 70, . 11 170 There are no heritors or families of independent fortune resident in the parish. There are 42 families altogether. There are 42 inhabited houses, besides 4 bothies. Habits and Character of the People. — The farmers are an en- lightened, active, and enterprising body of men, who embrace every opportunity of extending their knowledge of the important subjects connected with the cultivation of the soil, and eagerly adopt every suggestion that may conduce to the improvement of the rapidly ad- vancing science of husbandry. Perhaps no class of men is more free from prejudices, — more unaffectedly kind, — more sound and steady in their principles, — and full of solid and useful information, than that of the farmers of Fifeshire. Besides these, the only other class of people belonging to this parish is that of their dependents or ploughmen. Speaking generally, we would say of the married ploughmen, that they are a quiet, sober, and industrious race. Their lot is one of incessant toil, alleviated by few advantages. Their ordinary food consists of oatmeal and sweet milk, with po- tatoes and occasionally pork. While young they enjoy uninter- rupted health, and exhibit in their form all the appearances of ro- bust and sinewy vigour. But long before old age has arrived, most of them, from perpetual exposure to the weather, are crippled with violent rheumatism. But no class of men, we are persuaded, labours under more blighting evils than does that of out ploughmen. Their education, both religious and intellectual, is exceedingly neglected from their earliest youth. There may be' 214 FIFESH1RE. found a few bright exceptions to the prevailing character of the body ; but it is a melancholy truth that this interesting race of our people has been allowed to sink into a state of great ignorance and debasement One chief cause of this calamity, we do not hesitate to say, b the practice universal in Fife, of making the young un- married men live together in bothies. No sooner are boys capable of attending cattle in the fields, than they are sent from their fa* ther's house,— consigned to these wretched bothies, — and left in the midst of dangers to their own will. The results are grievous, though not more so than might be anticipated. In these hovels the wicked very speedily corrupt the good. The old ensnare the young; and the hardened profligate leaves no effort untried to seduce the scrupulous and timid to imitate his reckless exam- ple. Until this horrid system be abolished, it will be in vain to expect any happy alteration in (he character and condition of our ploughmen. Another grand cause of this flagrant evil is to be found in the fluctuating and wandering lives of the ploughmen themselves. The married men frequently, the unmarried always, flit at the end of one year's service. They thus acquire vagrant habits and uncontrollable minds. They are never long enough in one place to form useful connections, — to feel themselves influen- ced and benefited by the exertions of the minister, — or to receive any sufficient advantage to their children from the care and super- intendence of a parochial teacher. They thus virtually cut them- selves off from all the blessings of Christianity and civilization, and in a laud of light are literally roaming about in darkness. That an evil so virulent and so widely diffused as this can be soon oreasily re- medied, is not to be believed. But. were the masters and cler- gy to unite in a zealous endeavour to reclaim to better habits the labouring class of our people, they would, we have no doubt, do much good even to the present generation ; and, at all events, they would commence a wbrk of improvement, which another and a more fortunate age would carry on and complete. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There are in the parish about 1820 acres impe- rial of arable land ; about 270 of hill pasture or waste ground ; and about 30 under wood. The average rent of the arable land is about L. 2 per acre ; but this varies in the majority of cases with the price of grain, as a considerable proportion of the rental is determined by the fiars of the county. The wages of unmar- ried ploughmen are L. 11 per annum and their board. Married men DUNBOG. 215 receive in money L. 9, a house, a bit of garden-ground, milk and meal, 9 bolls of potatoes, and their coals driven from the pit. Sheep and Cattle. — There is no particular species of sheep or cattle reared in the parish. The tenants buy in sheep, in the autumn, to put on the stubbles, and to feed off on turnip during the winter and following spring. The sheep are generally Cheviots, with a sprinkling of black-faced. This practice is universal, and is now carried to a great extent. By the use of bone-dust, turnips can now be raised, where previously cultivation was either very dif- ficult or altogether impossible. But where turnips can be thus raised, the eating them off with sheep thoroughly enriches the soil, and secures invariably an abundant after-crop. The cattle are very much mixed ; so much, indeed, that it would be no easy matter to say what breed predominates. For many years, the old Falkland breed of cattle fell into general disrepute. Short-horns were introduced; and in several instances, were and are still rais- ed in high perfection. The opinion was, that they fattened more easily than the native cattle, and at an earlier age, and therefore were a profitable stock to the farmer. This opinion, however, is beginning to be questioned. It is now thought by many that the old Fife breed have as many good qualities as the short-horns, and are a much less hazardous stock. That they feed to as great a weight as the short-horns after they are five years old is well known ; and eminent judges say, that, by proper attention and care, they may be brought to fatten at as early an age. There is, how- ever, great difficulty experienced in obtaining pure blood. The state of husbandry is very good, as good as any where in Scotland. A six-shift rotation* is pursued in this neighbourhood, viz. summer fallow or potatoes, wheat, green crop, barley, grass, and then oats. The great defect is the want of fences. The fields are all open and unenclosed. This is a serious hinderance in the way of improvement. The land requires rest, for it has been over- cropped ; the farmer is most anxious to reap the advantages pro- mised by sheep husbandry ; but neither of these objects can be at- tained until the land is properly enclosed. The leases universally extend to a period of nineteen years ; and under the system of farming which has prevailed up to the present time, a term of such duration was equally convenient for the land- lord and tenant But now that a great and decided improvement in the mode of farming has taken place, and is increasing rapidly in all the purely agricultural districts, it will be expedient and 216 F1FESH1RE. equitable to give a considerable extension to the period of a lease* It is on every account desirable that the tenant should enjoy at least three, or perhaps four, returns of his rotation. But if by al- lowing the fields to lie in grass for two or three years, he extend his rotation from five or six, to seven or eight years, he cannot re- ceive this advantage unless his lease be for twenty-four years^ .instead of nineteen. No sound objection, as far as we can judge, .can be offered to this proposed alteration on the part of landlords, — be- cause rents being now very generally paid according to the fiars, the landlords will always share in any rise that takes place in the value of farm produce, and because the land, under the new system of resting for three years out of eight, would always be kept in the highest order. The average amount of raw produce.— The gross amount of all descriptions of grain raised annually in the parish may be estimated at 8336 bolls, which will average - L.8336 Potatoes and turnips grown in the fields, at - 2765 Grass at fe - - - - - - - 606 Total, L. 11,707 The gross rental of the parish will average nearly L. 3000. V. — Parochial Economy. Newburgh is the nearest market and post-town, being distant about four miles. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated in the centre of the parish, and at a convenient distance from the remotest houses. It was built in 1 803, and is in excellent repair. It is seated for 200, allowing eighteen inches to a seat The sittings are all free. The manse was built in 1792. A considerable addition was made to it fourteen years ago. It is both comfortable and commodious. The glebe consists of about 5 acres imperial of good land. The stipend is 14 chal- ders of barley, bear, meal, and oats ; but nearly L. 70 of it is paid in money. There is not a dissenting family in the parish. The farm-servants, with very few exceptions, all belong to the Establish* ed church. They change every year, yet there is never above one or two individuals among them that are members of any other de- nomination, which may be received as a decided proof that the whole body of the agricultural population are still attached to the Establishment. The average number of communicants is 135, which number comprehends a good many from the adjoining parishes of Flisk and Abdie, who always attend on ordinances in the church of Dunbog* The annual amount of collections for the poor do not exceed LEI CHARS. 217 L, 12. We have contributed liberally to the schemes of the Gene- ral Assembly for education in the Highlands of Scotland, and for the propagation of the Gospel in India. Education. — There is only one school in the parish. The ordi- nary branches of instruction are taught The salary is the maximum. The fees are small, and do not produce above L. 15 per annum. There is no person in the parish unable to read and write, but very many who read and write very ill. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The poor roll is at present a heavy one. We have many aged persons, and two families of orphan children. There are 13 in the receipt of a weekly aliment* We very seldom give the allowance in money, but authorize the tenant under whom the paupers reside, to give as much meal and potatoes as will keep them with comfort Our annual outlay is nearly L. 30. Of this sum we have about L. 12 from church col- lections, — the rest is drawn from money belonging to the poor. Fuel. — The only fuel used in this neighbourhood is coal, which is driven from the mouth of the pit The nearest mines are those of Coul and Balbirnie, about nine miles distant The fuel from both is good, and the price is moderate. July 1836. PARISH OF LEUCHARS- PRESBYTERY OF ST ANDREWS, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. DAVID WATSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of the parish seems to have been Lough-yards, which is now changed to Leuchars. The low and level grounds, extending for miles to the east and west of the vil- lage, were under water for the greater part of the year, and might well be considered a loch before the lands were drained. The elevated ground in the immediate vicinity might be the yards at- tached to the village. According to some, Leuchars is a Celtic word, and signifies a rushy or marshy flat. Sibbald says, the name is " a Locro, Pictorum magnate ejusdem possessore.** Extent^ Boundaries. — This parish, from north-east to south-west, 218 FIFESHIRE. extends 9 miles ; its greatest breadth from north-west to south-east is 5 miles. It is bounded by the bay of St Andrews, on the east ; the river Eden, on the south ; by the parishes of Dairsie and Logie, on the west; by Forgan and Ferry-Port-on-Craig, on the north ; and is of a very irregular figure. Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of the parish is that of an extensive flat rather bare of wood, for many square miles,-— not exceeding 15 feet in elevation above the level of the sea. As it verges westward, however, the ground rises gradually, till it reaches the top of the range of hills which separates it from Logie, when its elevation may be about 250 or 300 feet above the level of the sea* These hills are a branch of the terminating range of the Ochils, and are called Lucklaw, Airdit, and Craigfoodie. Of these, the summit of Airdit only is in this parish ; but the whole range, of four miles extent, forms a beautiful boundary and a shelter to the level ground on the south-east. The land is now well drain- ed both by deep and surface draining ; and the lighter land, at the east and north sides of the parish, is well enclosed for sheep hus- bandry, which has prevailed of late to a considerable extent, and is found a great improvement for such soils. The west division of the parish contains six farms. These are on elevated ground, inclining with a gentle slope, and are composed of soils consisting of clay, soft loam, and gravel. The soil in which gravel abounds, notwithstanding the thorough draining to which it has been subjected, retains much of its former spongy and wet cha- racter. The sea shore is jlat and sandy. The tide retires from the shore about half a-mile on ebbing. There is no alluvial soil deposited by the Eden ; but the sand banks are always on the increase. The bar of sand at its mouth is dangerous for shipping ; and, the noise with which the motion of the tide over it, is frequently accompanied, indicates a coming or retiring storm. Hydrography. — The river Eden, which forms the southern boun- dary for four or five miles, is navigable as far as the Guard bridge. Here is a small harbour, which, from its commodious situation, serves as the emporium of this part of the country. At spring-tides, ves- sels of considerable burden can make their way to it without diffi- culty. At the Guard bridge, a few salmon trouts are caught in au- tumn. Near the mouth of the river, are mussel beds of considerable value. These are let by the proprietors for a period of four or five years, to a tenant who pays every attention to their cultivation and LEUCHARS. 219 propagation. These mussel beds furnish bait to many fishers along the east coast of Scotland. The other streams are the Moultry, which traverses the parish in a direction from north to south, discharging itself into the Eden, and tlie Monzie burn, flowing from the west, and joining the Moul- try. On both of these streams are meal and barley mills. Otology and Mineralogy. — There is nothing remarkable as to the geology of the parish. The whole of the extensive flat known by the name of the Tents moor seems, from the appearance of its surface, to have been abandoned by the German Ocean at no very remote period. On advancing westward from the Tents moor to the Moultry, the character of the soil improves, till we find exten- sive beds of strong blue clay. In various parts of the Tents moor, frequent bores have been sunk to a considerable depth ; but by these nothing has been discovered but the same indurated sand by which this vast plain is so uniformly characterized. It is supposed that, a good way beneath the surface, a subordinate range of the prevailing rock of the high ground district to the north-west, which is whinstone, runs across the Tents moor in an eastern direction. This whinstone affords numerous excellent quarries, and is much esteemed both for the purposes of building and road-metalling. Lucklaw hill is composed of rocks of the trap formation. Augite greenstone, traversed by ill-defined veins of coarse calcareous spar, forms one prominent member in its composition, and felspar por- phyry another. This felspar porphyry is well exhibited by a cut which was made by the proprietor, on the face of the hill, many years ago, with a view to quarry it Quarrying operations are no longer conducted, though this rock, from its extreme solidity and durabi- lity, cannot fail to be esteemed of considerable importance in an economical point of view. Within a quarter of a mile of the Eden, on the farm of Brock- lay, is a stratum of new red sandstone, which, from the coarseness of its texture, and the imperfect consolidation of its component parts, is little used as a building material. It is of a brick colour, and bears the marks of a rapid deposition from water, with the ma- terials of each successive deposit distinctly traceable. Vegetable impressions have been discovered, associated with this rock. The specimens which -have been procured, we believe, are of the fern spe- cies ; but those that have been obtained are few. Deer's horns have been dug up in the Tents moor. Fossil re- mains of oaks of a large species have been found in the alluvial 220 PIFESHIRE. lands situated round the village. These were found to be in a very entire state, and useful for domestic purposes. Every variety of soil, from the richest loam and clay, to the poorest sand or moorish clay, is found in this parish ; but no marl, lime, or coal. This parish seems to have been cultivated from the' earliest times. Its productiveness is best evidenced by its affording teinds to the ministers of other parishes, even to the parish of Dull, in Perthshire. Wood. — In the north-east part of the parish, where the soil is ex- tremely light and sandy, the Scotch pines grow to a considerable size. This parish does not abound much in hard wood ; that which seems to thrive best, is the ash. Some fine old trees are found at Earlshall, Pitlethie, Pitcullo, and Airdit. II. — Civil History. The Earls of Southesk and the Bruces of Earlshall were the oldest proprietors of the greater part of the parish ; but their his- tory contains nothing so important as to merit a place in this work. The famous Alexander Henderson, who was minister of this pa- rish for more than twenty years, is so well known to the public, and his life and character so fully delineated in the late work of Dr Aiton, that any observations of ours upon the history of that re- markable individual, would be superfluous. Land-owners. — The present land-owners are, 1. Colonel Lindsay, who has just succeeded to his much lamented father, the Honour- able Robert Lindsay, who purchased the estate of Leuchars from Sir David Carnegie; 2. Lieutenant- Colonel Long, who purchased Earlshall from the late Sir Robert Bruce Henderson ; 3. A. B. Stewart, the late purchaser of Airdit; 4. Cheape of Pusk and Welfield ; 5. The Bank of Scotland ; 6. George Macgill of Kem- back, the proprietor of Lucklaw; 7. Russell of Hayston and Brocklay; 8. William Lawson of Pitlethie; 9. Mr Pitcairn of Pitcullo ; 10. Peter Walker of Muirhead. Four of the proprietors only are resident, and farm their own estates. Parochial Registers, — The earliest register extant of births and the session records commence with the year 1665. In the register of births, there is a hiatus of seven years, extending from 1699— 1705. The session minutes consist of three volumes, the first reaching from 1666-1737; the second from 1737 to 1762; the third from 1762 to the present year. No register of deaths pre- vious to 1766. Antiquities. — The chief object worthy of the attention of the ELEVATION #' 'A* ttttdaU jxtrt f f a*. J>urt#h, CKtwv*. .f LtUCHARS. with- tkr altered, arid defaced pttsl.t rettortd.. UL1i±lLlS <£ SS 3! J2 S» LEUCHARS. 221 antiquary is the church, a view of the elevation of the ancient part of which, together with a description of its architecture, we are en- abled to embody in these pages, through the kindness of John M'Kinlay, Esq. Bo-ness, who is well versed in the antiquities of this country. This church appears to have been built at three several periods. The eastern division forming the chancel consisted of a square building, havingasemicircular apsis towards the east, in which the altar was placed, and is built in the style usually called Saxon,- of which it is one of the most entire and interesting specimens to be found in Scotland. The second division was the original nave of the church, having an aisle projecting to the north. This portion of the building also is in the Saxon style, but later than the for* mer ; and the third division is comparatively modern, being pro- bably not more ancient than the time of the Reformation. The two last divisions have been greatly altered and modernized, and are fitted up as the parish church, and, although neat and comfortable enough, do not merit any particular description. The eastern portion consists of two parts. The apsis or semicir- cular recess to the east, for the reception of the altar, is narrower, and not quite so high as the body of the chancel. Externally, it is of two stages or storeys, the lower one consists of a range of ten semicircular arches, with zig-zag or chevron mouldings, resting on plain double pillars. Above those arches, there is a band or fillet, and resting upon this, is a range of nine smaller arches, supported by short pillars, each pair of which are separated by a small interven- ing pier. Each of the arches connecting the tops of those pillars consists of two rows of stones, the lower one ornamented with the zig-zag moulding, and the upper one with the billet moulding. The pillars of this upper arcade are placed over the centre of each of the lower arches. There are three windows in the upper tier, placed in* the intervals between the pillars; they are narrow and round topped, and widen internally. At some distance above the upper tier of arches, there is a range of corbels carved into gro- tesque heads, supporting the upper part of the wall, which projects a little. The roof appears, from marks on the gable of the other portion of the chancel, to have been a semicone of a pretty high pitch, — but this has been removed, together with two courses of stone off the walls, to make room for a belfry erected about half a century ago, in the degenerate style then in vogue ; and in order to support this mass of incongruity, a rude arch has been thrown across within, which partially blocks up two of the windows, and spoils the 222 FIFESH1RE. appearance of the groined ceiling. In the inside, the windows are decorated with pillars similar to the outside* The roof consists of a simple cross rib of three reeds, with two half arches meeting it in the centre, and groined between. Those arches spring from short pillars supported on projecting corbels, representing heads of ani- mals. A lofty arch opened from the apsis into the body of the chancel, and a similar one opened from thence into the nave. The sides of those arches are each formed of three slender pillars, the middle one projecting beyond the others. The arches connecting them above are ornamented with the zig-zag and fillet mouldings. This portion of the building has two windows to the south, and one to the north. They are ornamented on the inside with pillars, and rich mouldings from the soffits of the arches. The outside of this part of the building, like the apsis, consists of two tiers of arches, the lower rests upon four double and two single pillars on each front, and the tops of each alternate pillar connected by intersect- ing semicircular arches, so that the spaces between each two pil- lars have the form of Gothic arches. Over these arches, there is a band or fillet, on which is placed an upper range of pillars and arches similar to those on the apsis, but the pillars stand directly over those of the lower tier. Above this tier of arches, there is a range of corbels representing faces, supporting the upper part of the wall. The roof is high in the pitch, and the timbers are open to the view inside, the body of the chancel not having been arch- ed. Ancient gravestones form the pavement, and this portion of the building is now little else than a tomb. From the style of ar- chitecture, it Ls probable that this portion of the church was built about the year 1 100, when the Saxon style prevailed. At or about the period of the Reformation, the two windows on the south side of the body of the chancel were built up, and two square windows with a single stone mullion in each were substituted ; and one Qf the same in the apsis ; and although they are somewhat interesting, as showing the degraded style which succeeded the Gothic, it were desirable to have them removed, and the original appearance re- stored. The original nave is probably not much later in date than the chan- cel ; but as it only consists of plain dead walls with a single hatched fillet, there is not much from which its date can be ascertained. From the unbroken appearance of the side walls, there does not ap- pear to have been any windows. It was probably lighted by windows in the west gable, which is now removed. A wide and lofty arch LEUCHARS. 223 opens into the aisle, the walls of which were formerly only about half their present height, and a similar arch opens into the more modern part of the nave, forming together what is now used as the parish church. Where the parish school now stands, . there once was a chapel called St Bennet's, of which Sir Thomas Wemyss was chaplain at the Reformation. No vestige of it remains; but many human bones are found near the spot inclosed in stone coffins ; which, being by no means entire, point to a remote date. To the north of the village, there is a curious circular elevation where stood the castle of Leuchars. It has all the appearance of having been artifi- cially formed, with a moat around it, and a deep well in the centre. It occupies about an acre of ground. * There are three ruins of old mansions of a castellated form, kept in partial repair, — these are Earlshall, Pitcullo, and Airdit. Earls- hall is an interesting object. Its large, venerable hall, whose roof and walls are crowded with crests, inscriptions, &c is well worthy the attention of the antiquary, f The most interesting relic of antiquity that has been found in this parish is an earthen jar, which was discovered on Craigiehill, in the year 1808. This jar was found to contain nearly a hundred silver coins in perfect preservation. Unfortunately the jar itself was shiv- ered to pieces by the plough, by which it was thrown up. But most of the coins were secured by the proprietor, the late Hon. Robert Lindsay of Balcarres, where they remain. The coins are stamped with the heads of Roman emperors, such as Severus, An- toninus, Faustina, &c. III. — Population. There has been very liftle variation in the number of inhabit- ants in this parish from the earliest times till now, as is the case in most agricultural districts. The only change upon the popu- lation is that of locality. The Tents moor, which pf old used to be studded with turf built cottages, and gardens and crofts attached to them, is now, in a great measure, depopulated, from the extensive farms which h^ve been formed upon it. Many of the former inha- bitants of the moors shifted their quarters to the village, and other parts of the parish. * The castle was anciently a place of strength, and one of the strongholds of the Earls of Fife ; dismantled, however, by the English in the fourteenth century. f The dates inscribed in the hall show the building to have been founded \m 1546, and finished in 1017. 224 FIFESHIRE. No. of inhabitants residing in the village' of Leuchars in 1831, . 614 in Balmullo, another village belonging to this parish, 250 The yearly average of births for seven years ending with 1681 is, « 47 of deaths for 1831 is, ... 22 of marriages, . . . . . 16 In 1831, the average number of persons under I ft years of age, 689 betwixt 15 and 30, 475 30 and 50, . . 432 50 and 70, . . 214 upwards of 70, 59 Number of bachelors in 1831 upwards of 50 years of age, ... 6 old maids upwards of 45, ... . 25 In 1831 the number of hearths was, . . 412 of families, in which there are children, . . 209 of children, ....... 627 which makes an average of exactly 3 to each. Number of insane, 3 ; blind. 3; dumb, 1. Character and Habits of the People. — The inhabitants are late- ly much improved in point of cleanliness and dress. Their arti- cles of diet, which formerly consisted chiefly of potatoes and oat- meal, now embrace* a greater variety. Instead of the homely ban- nock, kneaded at his own hearth, you find the cottager enjoying his loaf from the baker, which he accompanies with beer, milk, or tear. Pork and rabbit during winter, fish and cockles during summer, constitute at once a rich and varied diet. By furnishing manure to the neighbouring farmers, the villagers obtain abundant crops of potatoes at an easy rate. They get a certain portion of land, in which they deposit their own sets, and cultivate and clean the land during the summer months, which tends much to promote their health and enjoyment. Indeed, our villagers are in possession of many privi- leges and comforts which are denied to the inhabitants of wealthier towns ; and, on the whole, they are a contented, industrious, intel- ligent, religious, and happy people. The demoralizing practice of smuggling, formerly so extensively prevalent on the shore, has, by the operation of the excise laws, been abolished for many years. During the last three years, there have been 9 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — In this parish agriculture is conducted in the most approved style. The deep soils undergo regular rotation by alter- nate husbandry. The five or six years' course is observed on the loams and deep clays ; the eight years' rotation suits the lighter or weaker soils ; by allowing the land to rest in pasture for two, three, or more years. On these, turnips are often flaked and eat off by sheep, which is found a prodigious improvement to the soil. Draining of all kinds is universally practised. By the large drain cut between the Tay and the Motiltry, of 5 miles extent, 20 (eel LEUCHARS. 225 « wide, and 12 or 14 feet deep, an immense extent of rich land has been gained. Numerous side cuts have been made into it. Tile or furrow draining is also practised successfully. The only incon- venience from this extensive draining is the great multiplication of the grey rat Inclosing by dikes of stone and lime has gone on with great spirit within these twenty years past, and greatly bene- fited the lighter soils. The introduction of the steam-engine into the thrashing-mills on two farms is found a great saving of horse power. The steadings are now universally in good condition, and on se-« vera] farms have very excellent accommodation for cattle. There is, however, still a want of cottars' houses for farm-servants, which obliges the farmer to crowd young ploughmen into bothies, which is unfavourable to their improvement in morals. It would perhaps remedy the evil, to distribute the young men among the families of those that are married, and lodge one or two of them with the tenant himself, that all may be under some superintendence, and be profitably employed at leisure hours. Indeed, the bothy system is universally reprobated. The farm roads that are not on the sta- tute labour books, are in the worst condition, especially in winter. This is a subject of loud complaint with those who pay so heavily for statute labour, and reap so little benefit from it No. of acres in the parish amounts altogether to abojit, . 9800 Scotch acres, under regular cultivation, and not in pasture are 6310 poor clay, and light land, often in pasture, . 3060 in plantations, 860 in roads, 70 Rent of Land. — There are 81 farms (beside, small feus) of every variety of soil and size; and 140 ploughs, averaging fifty acres for each plough. The average rent of good land is L. 2, 1 0s. per acre, or rather L. 1, with one-half boll of wheat, one-half boll barley, and one-half boll oats. Many acres are still valued at L 4 each. Poor soils are from L. 1, 10s. to 7s. 6d. per acre, the average value of the Tents moor. The long tract of bents is fit for nothing but har- bouring rabbits, a species of stock once in greater repute, but now nearly extirpated, on account of its diminished value, and its de- predations on the neighbouring crops. About a thousand acres of such links may be considered not worth cultivating. The valued rental is L. 10,541 Scots. The allowed real rental at last valua- tion of stipend was L. 13,660, and it is thought that if the farms were out of lease, they could not at present bring much beyond that sum. But it is difficult to ascertain the real rental, as there fife. p 22C FIPESHIRE. are nine proprietors who at present farm their own property, and the rents of the farms in lease vary every year, as they are paid by the Bars. The Clydesdale horse is most in use here, and the Teeswater breed of cattle, crossed with the Fife, is in greatest repute. We have every variety of sheep, — Leicester, Cheviot, and Highland. The last are fed with turnip in winter, for the butcher. The two first are kept for lambing in spring. Produce. — The average amount and value of gross produce > yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of grain from • »£©<> acres at L. 7 per acre, - L. 22000 potatoes and turnips at L. 7 per acre, - - 6000 hay at 7d per stone, ..... 4000 pasture land, good and bad, ... 5000 fisheries, &c. - ... 300 L. 37300 Little flax or hay is raised for the market. Manufactures. — Besides the employment of about 30 families as masons, carpenters, smiths, tailors, shoemakers in this parish, there are a great many engaged in weaving. Independent of the wea- vers who are employed in towelling and sheeting for home con- sumption, there are about two-thirds who work coarse linens, chief- ly Dowlas, Osnaburghs, and Silesias for the Cupar and Dundee manufacturers, who export them for America and the West In- dies. Many of our young females take to the loom during the winter months, but in summer they prefer out-door work. Since the introduction of machinery, hand-spinning has almost ceased to be a branch of industry. A spindle of yarn will occupy a woman three days and a-half, for which she will earn Is. ; a spindle of shirting yarn will yield double that sum. The number of looms altogether in this parish may be estimated at about 130. Our weavers are most industrious, working many of them ten hours, sometimes even more. Before the salutary change which the weav- ing interest has lately experienced, the gain per day at the loom, with the deduction of 4d. for expenses, did not exceed 8d. Now, however, provisions being moderate, their labour commands a fair remuneration. An extensive distillery was erected at Seggie, upon the river Eden, twenty-six years ago, and has, with the exception of this year, been all along in successful operation, distilling about 100 quar- ters of grain per day, during the cool season. Several scores of 4 LEUCHARS. 227 cattle were annually fed within the premises. It yielded constant employment to about 100 workmen, who received ample wages. The advantages of such an establishment ttj the farmers in the neighbourhood have been fully appreciated ; as a ready market was afforded them for the disposal of grain. A saw-mill, barley, lint, and two oatmeal-mills are in the parish. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Toicns. — The market-towns of Cupar, St Andrews, and Dundee, situated at seven, six, and eight miles' distance respec- tively, with daily communication by post and carriers, afford every advantage to the parish for buying and selling. Villages. — The two villages, — Leuchars, with £14 inhabitants, and Balmullo, a straggling village on the Dundee public road, with 250 inhabitants, — are dry, well-aired, well-watered, and healthy vil- lages, with excellent turnpikes through them. Means of Communication. — The soil being dry, the roads throughout the parish are kept without difficulty in the best repair. There are fourteen miles of turnpike, and nearly ten of statute la- bour roads. Three four-horse coaches have continued to pass through the parish daily from Edinburgh to Aberdeen for many years, but their number is now reduced to two: Coaches run twice a-week by way of Leuchars between Dundee and St Andrews- Besides the Guard-bridge pier already mentioned, there is another at Seggie, which is chiefly for the convenience of the distillery. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, situate in the village of Leuchars, is distant from the east end of the parish about four miles, and from the western extremity nearly six miles. A more centrical position for the bulk of the population would be about a mile farther to the westward. It is a commodious, well-light- ed, and comfortable building, accommodating 850 sitters. There are not more than a dozen free sittings in the church; Is. 3d. only is the average of each seat per annum. A deep gallery, holding 150 persons, erected out of the poor's funds, accommo- dates the householders at prices graduating from 2s. 6d. to 6d. each. As many more are also supplied with seats, at a small rent, by the principal heritors, after the tenants and their cottars are provided. The manse was built in 1806, and is still considered a respect- able and well-finished house, and pleasantly situated. The glebe, together with the garden, contains about 9 Scots acres of such land as would rent at about L. 4 per acre. The stipend al- located in 1820 amounts to 16 chalders, which, for the last four 228 FIFESHIRE years averages at L. 218 Sterling, with L. 8, 6s 8d for commu- nion elements. There is only one church of Original Seceders, stationed at Balmullo, with about 70 joined members, and a respectable minis- ter, whose stipend is of small and variable amount But to supply the deficiency, his supporters have built him a small manse and a few offices, and granted two acres for a cow's grass. The attendance at the Established Church throughout the year is steady and full. The number of persons attending church may be estimated at 600 generally. The 4 number of communicants average 700. Some are induced, from convenience, usually to at- tend the neighbouring parish churches. The number of dissen- ters throughout the parish is perhaps not more than 100. A society has been established for twelve years for promoting religious purposes at home and abroad, which has contributed about L. 40 annually. However, it is now fast declining. The collections throughout the year at the church door average L. 23, and have varied little in amount for the last twenty-five years. The fanners seem to prefer giving their charity to their cottars, with whom they are more immediately connected. The villagers assist their poorer neighbours in a similar way, without troubling the kirk-session, by rendering it the medium of com- munication. A mistaken idea prevails among many that the ses- sion funds are so rich as to require no addition to them. Education. — There are four schools; one parochial and three unendowed. Of the latter, one is for teaching sewing chiefly, and English reading, — is supported by the Balcarres family, and the fees of the scholars. The remaining two are supported by fees alone. The branches taught in the parish school are, English, Latin, Greek, arithmetic, practical mathematics, writing, gram- mar, and geography. At present there are no Latin or Greek scholars. The amount of fees in the parochial school is L 20 ; do. in the Balmullo school at present L. 40 nearly. The amount of fees in the other two varies much. The parish schoolmaster now enjoys the maximum salary; and interest of 2000 merks Scots, also a glebe of two acres, bequeathed by the Rev. A. Henderson. The children generally attend only two or three quarters in the year, and pay 6s., 7s. 6d., or at most 9s. per annum each, but often pay weekly. No person is known to be incapable of read- ing, and very few who cannot write after nine years of age. There LEUCHARS. 229 is also a flourishing Sabbath school, which has subsisted for twen- ty years. No additional school is needed. Literature. — A parish library was lately instituted by private subscription in Leuchars, cqijtaining sopie hundred volumes of va- rious useful and entertaining reading, calculated to promote men- tal and moral improvement. Poor. — The multiplication of paupers is owing to the growing impression, that heritors are bound to support the poor. Dilapida- tions are annually making on the lying capital, and are in the course of annihilating it The number now receiving aid regularly from the kirk-session is 30 persons ; occasionally, 36. The average number for a few years past is about 25. Average of aliment per week for each is Is. 3d. The annual amount of charitable contri- butions is L. 75; collections, L.23; land-rent, L.24; church seat rents, L. 12; interest, mortcloth, hearse, L. 11. Fairs. — Two fairs are held at Leuchars each year for the sale of cattle and small wares. But of late years they have been little frequented. Alehouses. — There are 6 alehouses in the village of Leuchars, and other 6 along the great roads of the parish. Fuel — Coal is brought from Newcastle and the Frith of Forth by sea ; also by land from the coal districts in the county. Wood is much used as a burning material by the villagers, who enjoy the valuable privilege of carrying home the debris from the plantation on Colonel Lindsay's estate* Advantage is often taken of the savings banks in the neighbour- ing towns. ' Miscellaneous Observations. Since last survey, the greatest change is the enlargement of our villages, and the depopulation of the country parts of the parish, which has not been attended with an improvement in the morals of the people in general September 1836. UNITED PARISHES OF IN VERKEITHING AND ROSYTH. PRESBYTERY OF DUNFERMLINE, SYNOD OF FIFE, THE REV. ANDREW ROBERTSON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History,* Name. — The name is variously written ; formerly, it was Enderkey- den, Henderkeyden, Enderkeithen, and Innerkeithing ; at present, it is Inverkeitbing. It is said to be derived from the Gaelic, accord- ing to one etymology, signifying " the mouth of the Keith," the rivulet which at this place falls into the sea ; according to another, " the confluence of the slow misty water with the sea ;" according to a third, " the entrance of the water into the sea between little hills," — with which last, appearances best correspond, Rosyth, formerly Rosaith, is said to be also from the Gaelic, and to de- note a tongue of land extending into the water. The parishes were united in 1636. The deed of annexation be- ing lost, nothing certain is known about the terms of the union; but it is said that the incumbent was. to preach for two Sabbaths successively in Inverkeithing, but on every third Sabbath at Ro- .syth. Topographical Appearances. — This parish is of a very irregular figure. The Ferry hills form an indented, and somewhat circular pe- ninsula^upward of a mile in diameter, with a neck about 300 yards broad. From this neck of land, the parish extends west* ward upwards of three miles, (including the harbour of Bruce- haven, and a small portion of Limekilns,) and runs northward to Crossgates, 4£ miles, and eastward to Letham hill, about 1 mile. Its general figure, (exclusive of the Ferry hills,) resembles two arms stretched out nearly at right angles, embracing a part of the parish of Dunfermline, and nowhere much exceeding a mile in breadth. At one place, the parish of Dunfermline approaches with- in half a mile of the burgh. The Frith of Forth is the southern and * The scientific part of this account prepared by the Rev. Andrew Robertson, Junior. INVERKEITHING. 231 part of the eastern boundary of the parish ; it adjoins to Dalgety on the east ; and is next to Dunfermline on the north and west* This parish may be viewed as consisting, in the soutl^part, of a range of greenstone hills, not exceeding 300 feet above the level of the sea ; of a rising ground with a southerly exposure in the north part; and of a valley between, running east and west There are about six miles of sea coast ; a small portion sandy, an- other rocky and rather high ; the remainder intermingled mud and rock. The bay of St Margaret's Hope, the islet of Inch Garvie, and the rock Bimar, which last has often been the cause of ship- wreck, are within the parish. Meteorology. — More rain falls, a few miles inland, either to the north or south than here, — it being observed that the clouds, mov- ing towards the Frith before a westerly wind, divide about Stir- ling, and keep the higher range of country on both sides of the estuary, leaving the lower grounds near it comparatively free. Some- times the rain is so strongly electrical, that the common electrome- ter for rain will charge a coated -jar very smartly in a few minutes. Hydrography.- — The adjoining Frith has strong currents during the flowing and ebbing of the tides, with many eddies and counter- currents, particularly near the Ferry, where it is about a mile and a half only broad. Between Inch Garvie and the north side, the greatest depth is about 40 fathoms ; south of that rock it is not more than 22. Near Bimar, there is one point where it is said to be upwards of 50 ; but a mile farther up it does not exceed 11, with a bank in the middle on which there is still shoaler water. There is no submarine moss known to exist on the shores. of the parish, though frequently these are covered to a considerable depth, with the moss thrown into the water at Blair Drummond, and floated down with the ebbing tide. There is, however, a con- siderable concretion of the sea sand going on in several places, forming flat reefs, some of them covered with sea-weed, and not much softer than the sandstone rock. The water of the springs in this neighbourhood is generally im- pure, with a few exceptions, — carbonate of lime, and in the upper part of the parish, iron, being the characteristic contaminating sub- stances. The composition of one of them may be seen in Jame- son's Edinburgh Philosophical Journal for April 1829. There are none of these springs of note or considerable size, and most of them fail in dry weather. The temperature of such of them as have been tried is 47° or 48° F. Two burns or streamlets run through the parish, unite and fall into the harbour. 232 FIFESHIRE. Geology. — With the slight exceptions of a few hill tops and steep faces, almost the whole of the parish is in a high state of cultivation. In the southern part, the soil is a decomposed green- stone, light on the eminences, but very fertile. More in the in- terior, it is clayey or sandy, having chiefly sandstone for its sub- stratum, but still excellent in quality. On the higher grounds in the north of the parish, it consists of a ferruginous sand or clay, or of moss, very poor, and not susceptible 'of much improvement, the effect of labour and manure upon it being in a great measure destroyed by the first wet season. There is a good deal of al- luvial soil on the banks of the streamlets running through the pa- rish, and in some places near the sea, a few acres of deposits of sand or clay. From the state of cultivation in which the parish is, there are often, in the interior part of it, no exposures of the subjacent strata for spaces of a square mile together. There are, however, some very good sections along the east and south-west sides of it, where it is washed by the sea ; on the north-east, where it is bounded by a rivulet with steep banks ; and in several quarries. The stratified rocks are wholly of the coal formation of the secondary series, in many places broken through, distorted and overlaid by various modifications of trap rock, usually greenstone. In the north part of the parish coal exists, but it crops out about a mile north, of the town, and, in the greater part of the parish, the strata underly the coal, and consist of the mountain limestone, sandstone, slate-clay, clay-ironstone, bituminous shale, and a stratified whitish slate-clay or marl ; these being deeply buried in many places beneath the trap rocks, with alluvial matter, chiefly clay. The small islands and rocks in the Frith, which are in the parish, are wholly of greenstone. The stratified rocks, in the southern part of the parish particu- larly, bear the marks of having been acted on by a disturbing force producing disruption of the strata, and inclination of them in va- rious directions, this inclination often changing abruptly within very short distances. This disturbing force appears to have been inti- mately connected with the masses of trap rock which penetrate the strata in many places, and it has generally acted by depres- sing the strata, and causing them to dip all round towards the cen- tre of the mass of greenstone, in very few instances by upraising them, and giving them a dip away from it Few simple minerals are contained in the rocks of this neigh- 3 >x 1NVERKEITH1NG. 233 bourhood. Quartz crystals, some of them purple, steatite, sul- phate of bar ytes, felspar, and some zeolites, are found in the green- stone ; calcareous spar both in the greenstone and limestone ; and pyrites is abundant in the ironstone, slate-clay, greenstone and limestone. Galena* and flinty slate also exist, and boulders of chlo- rite and mica slate, sometimes of large size, are not uncommon, — though within these few years, four of the largest of these have been blasted to pieces for building materials, or for making drains. The greenstone rocks frequently assume' the columnar form. Zoology. — The most noted wild quadrupeds are the hare, badger, fox, otter, weasel, but all very scarce. Among the birds may be enu- merated the pheasant, partridge, sparrow-hawk, kite, a blue-look- ing hawk, the common and a white owl, raven, carrion-crow, rook, wood-pigeon, thrush and blackbird, both of which are much on the increase, fieldfare, redwing, stonechat, snow and common bunting, three species of linnet, whin-sparrow, reed-sparrow, several of the creepers, jay, magpie, blue and yellow wagtails, chaffinch, wren, &c; wood-cock, snipe; green, gray and golden plovers; curlew, whimbrel, brown dotterel, and several more of the scolopax tribe ; several species of gull, the black-headed tern, pied oys- ter catcher, several species of duck, the teal, widgeon, auks, the plane and hooked-beaked marrots, the cormorant, heron, wild goose, swan, solan-goose, and, though very rarely, a large species of Anas with a red mark of a horse-shoe form on the breast Most of these birds desert the place in summer and return in winter. Of amphibia and fishes, there are two species of seals, the porpoise, the finner, so named from its long dorsal fin, the bottle-nosed whale, a much larger species of whale, salmon, sea-trout, cod, cod- ling, podley, seathe, flounder, skate, herring, white-bait, &c The common cuttle is frequently thrown upon the beach, and oc- casionally that deformed fish the Lophius of a large size. A large Opah was thrown on shore on the 23d July 1835, but it was cut into several pieces, as the first step in the process of frying, before it was seen by any one who knew its. value. This exceed- ingly rare and most beautiful fish must be seen in the recent state, before any conception can be formed of its superb appearance. The spots, and green, gold, and silver lustre of the skin, contrast- ed with the bright red of the fins and tail, constitute a whole which * Vide for particulars, " Analysis of Galena, from Ca&tleland Hill, near Inver- keithing, by the Rer. A. Robertson, Junior," in Vol. vii of Edinburgh New Philo- sophical Journal. 234 FIFESHIRE. surpasses description. The skin of it was uncommonly thick and of a whitish texture ; the flesh resembled dark-coloured beet Some of the medusas abound in autumn. There are no shell-6sh of con- sequence. Botany. — The following rather rare plants have been gathered during the last five years in the parish, or within half a mile of its boundaries* and any doubtful ones verified by the highest authori- ty. The names are those of Hooker's British Flora. Salicornia herbacea Veronica scuteUata — — polita — — Bauzbaumii Fedia dentate — auricula - mixta Eriophorum angustifolium Eleocharis pauciflora Scirpus maritimus - sylvaticua Iris fetidissima Alopecurus agrestia Poa distans — -rigida Hordeum murinum Brachypodium sylvaticum Rotbollia incurvata Polypogon monspeliense Setaria viridis Catabrosa aquatica, dwarf single-flowered variety Festuca myurus rubra Triticu-u loliaceum Bromus rigidus — — — — arvensis Dipsacus sylvestris Parietaria officinalis Sagina maritima ■ apetala Primula veris ■ elatior Myosotis collina ■ — cespitosa sylvatica Salaola kali Chenopodium maritimum ■ album — — - urbicum - bonus Henricus Cicuta yiroea Heliosciadum inundatum Myrrhis odorata (Enanthe crocate Torilis nodosa Parnassia palustris Sambucus ebulus Drosera Anglica Allium vineale arenanum Galanthus nivalis Triglochin maritimum palustre Tulipa sylvestris Alisma ranunculoides Acer campestre Adoxa moschatellina Paris quadrifolia Sclcranthus annuus Chrysosplenium alternifolium Saxifraga granulate Silene Anglica noctiflora nutans Saponaria officinalis Arenaria rubra — maritima — trinervis Symphytum officinale tuberosum Viola hirta — - odorata 1 palustris Convolvulus sepium Cynoglossum officinale Erythrrca centaurium Solanum dulcamara - nigrum Hyoscyamus niger Campanula trachelium Anchusa semper-vireus Gentiana campestris Ligusticum scoticum Pirapinella saxifraga Spergula subulate Scdum telephium — — reflexum villosum Reseda lutea luteola Prunus domestica - insititia Tormentilla reptans Potentilla reptans Spirea filipendula Helianthemum vulgare Glaucium lutcura Thalictrum flavum majus — - minus Ranunculus sceleratus auncomus A tin os vulgaris INVEBKE1THING. 235 Mentha viridis piperita Marrubium vulgare Origanum vulgare Ballota nigra Stachys arvensis ambigua Linaria repens Coronopus Ruellii Sisymbrium sopbia Nasturtium sylvestre Lepidium latifulium — ^-^— . campestre — — — — ruderale Camelina sativa Thlaspi arvense Hesperis matronalis Barbarea precox Sinapis nigra alba . tenuifolia — muralis Geranium pyrenaicum — — — eolumbinum sanguineum Malva sylvestris moachata Lavatera arborea Ononis ramossissima Vicia lutea — Bobartii — sativa — lathyroides Oxytropis uralensis Astragalus glycyphyllus Ornithopus perpusillus Ervum tetraspermum Melilotus officinalis — — leucantha Trifolium scabrum striatum ornithopodioides Medicago sativa — - maculata Hypericum perforatum — — — pulchrum . hirautum _— quadrangulum Clcborium Intybus Carduus acanthoidea — — tenuiflorus mananus nutans Bidens cernua ■ tripartita Tragopoffon majus Artemisia absynthium GnaphaUnin dioicum ————— minimum germanicutn rectum sylvaticum uliginosum Aster tripolium Pyrethrum parthenium Matricaria chamomilk Antbemis arvensis — eotula Habenaria viridis Gymnadenia conopsea Malaxis paludosa Epipactis latifolia Euphorbia Lathyris — — — exigua — paralia — portlandica Arum maculatum Carex limosa, and other rare carices Myrica gale Atriplex angustifolia littoralis laciniata Cistopteris fragilis Aspidium lobatum Asplenium marinum — — - ruta-muraria — trichomanes -~ adiantum nigrum This is given as the only Scottish station of Verbena officinalis, but it has not been found for many years back. Uses, &fc. — Reseda luteola has sometimes been collected in cartloads, for the dyers ; Menyanthes trifoliata is given occasion- ally as a bitter, particularly to sick calves, and also Teucrium sco- rodonia. Nettles (Urtica dioica) and the Caltha palustris are used as an ingredient in rennet for curdling milk ; St John's wort (Hy- pericum perforatum and pulchrum) in an herb mixture for coughs ; and an infusion of black horehound (Ballota nigra,) for colds. This last, however, appears to be but a rough medicine. A per- son who took it, said that it made him very " sick and ill," though it cured him. The leaves of Tussihgo farfara have been smoked 236 PIFBSHIRE. by asthmatic people, instead of tobacco, it is said, with considerable benefit; and infusion of agrimony is a favourite beverage with some old persons, instead of tea.* From the high state of cultivation in which the parish is, it cannot well be ascertained what plants are attached to certain soils, excepting the well known distinctions of aquatic, bog, and rock plants. The rarer plants are usually found in the greenstone soil, but in general the plants do not affect soils so much as localities ; a plant being often abundant in one spot, while in another, under exactly similar circumstances, not a particle of it is to be seen. There are few plantations of trees, and these but of very small extent. When young these contain principally larch and fir, which, as they grow up, are thinned out to make room for the elm, oak, ash, and beech, planted along with them. The only trees appa- rently indigenous are a few alder and willow bushes on the banks of the streamlets. IL — Civil History. Burgh. — Inverkeithing isa Royal Burgh of a very ancient date. It has a charter from William the Lion, confirming another still older ; and James VI., by one dated 1598, recognizes the privileges be- stowed by former monarchs, and declares its rights of custom, &c to extend from the water of Leven on the east, to that of Devon on the west, and as farnorth as Kinross. Most of these have been sold or disposed of; but there are still retained the duties at the markets held at Kinross and Tulliebole, and the customs at North Ferry passage. Even Edinburgh at one time paid a trifling acknow- ledgment of superiority for some parts of the Calton-hill, but it was bought up or fell into desuetude. According to the first print* ed return of the treasurer under the new regulations of burghs, " the funds, property, and effects" of the burgh are valued at L. 7437, 10s. 5 T 8 gd* exclusive of the town-house, jail, and "other property," and the debts at L. 2029. The burgh affirirs are at present managed by a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a * This rustic practice, however, ia sometimes not unattended with danger. Once, upon inquiry being made what had become of a patch of hyoscyamus, which had disappeared just as the plants were about coming into flower, information was re- ceived that two persons of the common working class had taken the whole up, to make " excellent medicine.** Shortly after this, a farm- labourer was met carrying an immense sheaf of digitalis, who, upon being asked, from a humane motive, what he intended to do with it, replied, " to make fine herb* tea for the cold. 1 * He was of course informed of the risk of poisoning which he might incur by drinking the said tea. INVERKEITHING. 237 treasurer, and nine councillors. The constituency of the burgh for parliamentary elections is about 57 ; for the election of town-councillors, about 26. It sends a Member to Parliament along with Culross, Queensferry, Stirling, and Dunfermline. By a grant from Queen Mary and Henry Darnley, the ancient family of Henderson of Fordel, having a part of their estate within the parish, held the office of hereditary provost and sheriff; but this right was never exercised. In the ridings of the Scottish Parliament, the provost was entitled to ride next to the provost of Edinburgh. The Magistrates had the power of pit and gallows within their jurisdiction, that is, of inflicting the punishment of drowning or hanging, — in testimony of which, a rising ground fac- ing the town, still bears the name of the Gallow-bank, and there is still in it a Gallow-tower. The court of four burghs, authorized by James 1IL to draw up a set of mercantile regulations, had their sittings here ; and before the convention of burghs was appointed to be held at Edinburgh, Inverkeithing was the usual place of its meeting. The last assemblage of the Culdees took place in the church. Some battles have been fought here, the last in 1651, by Crom- well's troops against the Scots. There is a tradition that, in the reign of Alexander HI. the Jews proposed to establish a fortified commercial city on the Ferry hills, but the design somehow mis- gave. A document confirmatory of this is said to exist in one of the libraries or public offices in Edinburgh. St Margaret's Hope is so called, because it was the place where Margaret, who after- wards became Queen of Malcolm HI., landed during a storm in her flight from England. The adjacent ferry is also named from ' her, (Buchanan calls it Margarita Portus,) supposed to be from her frequently using it in her passage to or from the palace at Dunfermline. Ferry. — At this ferry, is a flourishing village inhabited by the boat- men, principally, and much resorted to in summer, as sea-bathing quarters. The piers are unrivalled, and there is an elegant and com- modious inn, lately built In old times, this ferry was subject to the Abbots of Dunfermline, who drew the fortieth penny of pas- sage money to repair their Quair, and also one-fourth to supply boats. The present superior of whom the ground of the village is feued, is the Marquis of Tweeddale. Of later years, the right of ferry belonged to neighbouring proprietors, the Earl of Rose- 238 FIFESHIRE. bery, Dundas of Dundas, &c to whom a rent was paid, but up- wards of twenty years ago, it was vested by act of Parliament in trustees. The rent, under this act, once amounted to L. 2300, but now it yields about L. 1500 only. The currents of the tide here are so peculiar, that, as was proved upon trial when an at- tempt was made about the beginning of the century to turn off the old boatmen, no sailor, unless brought up upon the passage, can navigate the boats without much delay and risk. At one time, a visionary project of a tunnel beneath the Frith a little way above the ferry, was entertained ; and more lately, another of a chain bridge across it, having Inch Garvie in the middle for an intermediate step. There is at the ferry a battery, at present dismantled, erected after the visit of Paul Jones. Eminent Men. — The settlement of the last incumbent of this parish is a conspicuous event in the history of the church. It took place in 1752, and occasioned the deposition of Mr Gillespie, mi- nister of Carnock, on account of his refusal to attend the meetings of presbytery held for that purpose. This was the origin of the Relief church. The parish has produced no eminent men, unless Admiral Greig, who rose to the chief command of the Russian navy, and died in 1 788, is to be accounted one. Land-owners. — The valued rent is L. 6866, 16s. lOd. Scots money, and the proprietors are rated as follows : Earl of Hopetoun, L. 2268 ; Sir Robert Preston's Heirs, L. 1947, 19s. 4d. ; Sir Philip C. H. Durham, G. C. B., L. 750, 16s. 8d.; Rev. John Kellock Cuninghame, L. 482, 19s. 4d. ; James Hunt, Esq. L. 425 ; John Newton, Esq. L. 392, 16s. lid.; Heritors of Ferry hills, (several) L. 246 ; John Cuninghame, Esq. L. 159, 14s. 9d. ; Marquis of Tweeddale, L. 86, 15s. Id; David Peat, Esq., L.63; Ferguson Sharp, Esq., L. 31, 12s. 6cL ; Captain Spittal's Disponees, L. 7 ; Andrew Tulloch's Heirs, L. 5, 2s. 3d. Parochial Registers* * — The minutes of session are regular and * There are some curious notices of old customs to be found in the old minutes. Money appears to have been often given from the poor's funds, to enable students to prosecute their studies, and there was a fine to the poor on baptisms and marriages, when these took place in the parties' own houses. The session also assumed the power of appointing who should sit in the vacant seats in the church, and it seems to have been acquiesced in. Persons are prohibited from receiving into their houses, or let- ting houses to those from another parish, who do not bring " Usttficates." and the civil powers are called upon to enforce this. Persons recusant are compelled to ap- pear before the kirk- session, and to submit to the discipline enjoined, under penalty of imprisonment by the magistrates, until they consent to do so. The exercise of discipline also appears to have been what would at present be ac- counted rigorous. During the first thirty years of last century, there are instances INVERKE1THING. 230 without blanks, from 1 676 to the present date. The register of baptisms and marriages also extends from 1676 to the present date, though from 1676 to 1698, in the same books with the ses- sion minutes, and intermixed with them as they occurred, and with the exception of a blank from 1711 to 1748, caused by the loss of a book, which, according to an entry in the session minutes about 1755, was taken to London as evidence in a law-suit about 1750, and never returned. There is a register of burials from 1702 to 1708, and for 1710, and of testimonials given and re- ceived from 1701 to 1711. Antiquities. — On the top of Letham hill, there is what is said to be the remains of a Druidical temple. To uninitiated eyes, it ap- pears to be a few blocks of greenstone, somewhat circularly arranged on the top of a greenstone hill, where such loose fragments of the rock below are to be expected. In the north part of the parish, there is a stone 10 feet high, 2£ broad, and 1 thick, with rude figures of men and horses cut upon it, but now much defaced, sup- posed to be a Danish monument Situated on a small rock, con- nected by a causeway with the main-land, stands the Castle of Ro- sy th, noticed in the novel of the Abbot. It is a ruinous square tower, forming the north-east angle of what must have been a pretty large square of buildings. Over the gateway is a mouldered armorial bearing, surmounted by a crown, and M. R. 1561. On the stone bars of the great windows of the hall, which are evidently much more recent than the original loop-holes, is " F # S" and M # N" of persons rebuked before the congregation for swearing, drunkenness, stealing, for not attending public worship, for being out of doors unnecessarily, or carrying water on the Sabbath, for ferrying people across on the Sabbath without an order from the minister, for abusive language or calling names, very frequently women for scolding, once, a man for cursing and striking his wife, and another for consulting a " wiz- ard." An offender, in addition to the usual censures and fine, is ordered to learn to read within a year, under penalty of censure, if he shall be found " deficient in learning." According to order of the Lord Ordinary, there is, in 1701, a guardian of morality appointed in the parish* to put the laws in execution against immorality and profaneness, and there appears to have been a strict system of espionage esta- blished in regard to these. In 1702, there is a named list of the communicants, chiefly females, amounting to seventy-eight in all, and a few years after, a named list of elders, amounting to nine- teen. During this period it is customary to mark in the minutes the name of any stranger who may have preached, and very often the subject of his sermon. Even on solemn occasions, decorum was evidently not very strictly observed in those days, as at every sacrament there is a regular entry of a sum of money paid to the town officers " for keeping off the thronge." Many irregular marriages are also recorded. About 1720, the parish seems to have been in a sad state so far as morality was concerned, and also in the years preceding 1745, both periods of great political ex- citement, Offenders during the time between these dates were also exceedingly re- fractory and contumacious, and there appear to be good grounds for concluding that the present generation and their fathers have improved very much upon their ances- tors in those days, at least in sobriety and decency of behaviour. 240 FIFRSHIRE. " Anno 1639." Upon the south side of the Castle near the door is this inscription : — IN DEV TYM DRAW YIS CORD YE BEL TO CLINK, QVHAIS MERY VOCE VARNIS TO 'MEAT AND DRINK, There appear to be the remains of a four gun battery on the side of the rock next the sea. This Castle is said by Sir Robert Sibbald to have been the seat of Stewart of Rosyth or Durisdeer, a descend- ant of James Stewart, brother to Walter, the great Steward of Scotland, and father of Robert II. There is a tradition that the mother of Oliver Cromwell was born in it, and that the Protector visited it when he commanded the army in Scotland. It is now the property of the Earl of Hopetoun. At the place of encampment of Cromwell's troops on the Ferry hills, swords and English coins have been, dug up, and cannon shot, almost consumed by rust, have been found near the field of battle. In the North Ferry, there was once a Roman Catholic chapel, found- ed by Robert L, which was a dependency of the Abbey of Dun- fermline, and subsisted till destroyed by the English in 1651. Its ruins still remain, and the burial ground is still in use. Between the ferries is Inch Garvie, on which Sir Archibald Dundas of that Ilk obtained from James IV. leave to build a castle, with import- ant privileges. It was anciently fortified, and used as a state pri- .son, and was repaired and mounted with cannon during the late war. At present, it is abandoned. Besides this building, there is on the west end of the rock, a ruined round tower or redoubt, and on the east end, what is said to be the remains of a battery, — ac- cording to tradition, both erected by Cromwell's soldiers. In the burgh there are still houses pointed out as the town residences of the Rosebery and Fordel families, and it is asserted that there was even here a palace of David I. An old tenement, named " the Inns," is said to have been the residence of Annabella Drummond queen of Robert II L By a charter from her husband, the magis- trates were to pay to her a hundred shillings a year at the feast of Pentecost She died here in 1403. The house is exempted from burgh jurisdiction, though in the middle of the town, and is said to contain, among other conveniences, a subterraneous passage to the sea. Numerous vaults and ruins are near it, and the founda- tions of the " chapel" were lately dug up. These are supposed to have belonged either to the Franciscans or Dominicans, both of whom had once monasteries in the place. When the late church was repaired in 1806, there was found a font made of fine sand- stone, which has been placed in the porch of the present church. INVERKEITHING. 241 Its form is hexagonal, the extreme breadth being a little more than three feet, and, with its pedestal, it is about four feet high. The bowl of it is a sort of hemisphere, two feet broad, and one deep, with a hole of about an inch diameter, pierced through the bottom* It had been carefully buried and surrounded with straw, ttje remains of which were still beside it, and it contained within the bowl of it a quantity of human bones, probably relics, and an ink-glass. The six angles of it are wrought into a kind of ornamental pillar, and on every one of the six faces, there is the bust of an angel with expanded wings, having on its breast, and supported by its hands, a shield of a triangular form with curved outlines. These shields contain ancient armorial bearings. By persons skilled in heraldry, these are said to be the arms of Scotland; those of David Bruce and Margaret Logie, his queen, or of Robert III. and Annabella Drummond, who were probably reigning when the font was made ; those of Gourlay of Kincraig ; those of Alderston, the heiress of which married the laird of Kincraig of that time being, or of a Stuart (Rosytb,) a Clerk, a Lindsay, &a — probably those of Lowis of Menar, or of Loren of Harwood, or of a Fowlis, •—the arms of Melville, old Lords of Melville in Fifeshire, or of Craigie of CraigiehalL The difficulty of fixing some of these more precisely arises from the bearings not being coloured or hatched to represent colouring. The communion cups, dated 1643, are of rather curious form, Deing narrow and deep, with a long stalk and foot like a wine glass. The workmanship is rude, and they have been made in three pieces, and roughly soldered together. What is remark- able, as shewing the state of the arts at the time, is, that there is a border round the foot, which appears to have been a ribband of metal, figured in a cress, or chased in a rolling machine, then turned round till the ends met, and the ring thus made rudely soldered to the foot of the cup, in the same manner as chased plate brass articles are done in the present day. The silver is whiter and brighter than the most of modern plate. Modern Buildings. — The town is beautifully situated on a ris- ing ground immediately above a small bay adjoining the Frith, with a south exposure. It consists of a main street, and a smaller one branching off it, besides some wynds. There have been many houses built or rebuilt within the last twenty years, so that the place has been considerably extended and improved. It contains a new church, replacing thatwhich was burnt in 1825, a new school-house, FIFE. Q 242 FIFESHIRE. and a grain stock-market, all of most handsome appearance, and a curious and rather lofty stone pillar at the cross ; also a town-house, and a Meeting-house belonging to the United Associate Synod. There is a building intended for a Lazarette between Inverkeithing and the Ferry, which, however, had been little used for a dozen of years past, and was sold last year by Government for a trifling sum, having a heavy feu-duty upon it, — the frigate Dartmouth, stationed in St Margaret's Hope, being now employed for the quarantine service in its stead. The buildings in this neighbourhood are of white sandstone or greenstone. Ill — Population. According to the return made to Dr Webster this was in 1755. By an accurate private list made in By the Government census 1755. 1694 1793, 2210 1801, 2228 1811, 2400 1821, 2512 1831, 3189 Of this last return, 1569 are males, and 1620 females. The number residing in the burgh is 2020, being 978 males, and 1042 females ; in the village of North Ferry, 434, being 203 males, and 231 females ; in that of Hillend, 279, being 146 males, and 133 females ; and in the country part of the parish, 458, be- ing 243 males, and 215 females. The increase in the number of parishioners between 1821 and 1831 is 677. This great increase may be partly accounted for by the establishment of a large distillery between these periods, but it arose principally from a large influx of labourers employed about 1831, to work in the greenstone quarries supplying materi- als for the extension of Leith pier, and the erection of the new bridge at Stirling. These quarries being abandoned upon the com- pletion of the works, the labourers and their families have gone elsewhere, and it is supposed that the population is not now so nu- merous as in 1831. The number of families was in 1831, 712, of inhabited houses 438, and of other houses, 12. The average number of a family nearly 4£. There are two persons only of independent fortune residing in the parish, and one of them is but a very small proprietor in it. There are no noblemen resident, and but one of the larger heri- tors. The proprietors of lands in the parish of more than L. 50 rental, are 11 in number. IV. — Industry. There are 25 occupiers of land, employing sixty-eight labourers INVBRKEITHING. 243 or servants, and there are -282 males engaged as retail-dealers, or in handicraft trades, either as masters or workmen. Agriculture. — From the number of heritors in the parish, and the accurate measurement of many of the lands being unknown, and also from the many subdivisions of lands, nothing approach- ing even to a good approximation of the number of acres in it could be obtained without actual admeasurement, or a very great degree of trouble in collecting information, often inaccurate. It may be stated, however, in general, that almost every piece of ground capable of cul- tivation is under the plough ; that there is but a very small propor- tion of wood, and that chiefly young ; and that there is no pasture ex- cepting a small quantity on the steepest acclivities of the hills. There are no commons. The lowest rent of land in the parish is L. 1, 5s. the highest approaches L. 4, per acre ; but as many of the rents are partly in grain, convertible at the flars' prices, they are of course variable. The average rent is nearer the higher than the low- er rate. From the vicinity to Edinburgh, the rate of labour, and the prices of raw produce and manufactures, are regulated by the prices there. The husbandry follows different systems of rota- tion. The crops raised are, wheat, barley, oats, beans and pease, potatoes, hay, turnips. Much waste land from moss has, of late years, been reclaimed in the upper part of the parish, and there has been a great deal of draining, some of it tile, but the most of the farmers prefer stones, as better, and also more economical. A good many sloop loads of manure are imported from Leith. The leases are almost, without exception, for nineteen years. Many of the farm buildings have lately been erected in the most com- modious style ; they are almost all good, and the fields are well enclosed with thorn hedges chiefly, though sometimes with stone walls. Quarries. — Greenstone for building, paving, and road-making, is quarried in several places, and often sent off by sea. A good many years ago, great quantities were shipped from the Ferry hills for paving the streets of London ; but the granite of Aberdeen is now preferred for that purpose. Sandstone is also quarried in two places, chiefly for exportation coastwise, and limestone in several, for home consumption, or sending to a distance by sea. These are wrought by the aid of gunpowder, wedges, and levers, — the work- men being particular in keeping a face upon the quarry. There are no mines. There are no coal-pits, though there are many closely adjoining in the neighbouring parishes. 244 FIFESHIRE. Fisheries. — The herring fishery in winter was once of great im- portance, but for several years back it has been all but annihilat- ed. There is a very trifling stake-net salmon fishery. Produce. — No estimate of the quantity of raw produce raised in the parish can be given, for the reasons mentioned above. Manufactures. — There is a large distillery in which whisky is made, both for the English and home markets, by Coffey's pa- tent steam apparatus. There are also two founderies in the parish, where large articles are cast, and steam-engines and other machi- nery made. There is a tan-work, a ship-building yard, a salt-work, a magnesia manufactory, and a brick-work, where very excellent fire-bricks are made, and also chimney cans of elegant patterns, a^pd other ornamental work, exactly resembling a fine freestone* A mill driven by steam has also been erected for crushing bones for agricultural purposes. These bones are chiefly imported from abroad, and are exported when ground down to supply the con- sumption of the east coast of Scotland, — little of them being used in the district There are two mills for making meal and flour, and a barley mill. A considerable number of the usual tradesmen reside in the parish, and also some weavers employed by the da- mask table cloth-manufacturers of Dunfermline. " The distillery employs about 80 men when in operation, the two founderies from 40 to 50, and there are a considerable number of carpenters in the building yard. The usual time of working is ten hours a day; the employments are healthy and the payment good. Navigation. — There are twenty vessels of from 20 to 100 tons burden belonging to the port, employed chiefly in the coasting trade. A considerable number of foreign and English vessels load coal here, and some occasionally bring bark, timber, and bones to be ground down for manure. V.— Parochial Economy. There is in this parish, the burgh of the same name, having, as before stated, a population of 2020. It has not much trade, the coal and stone shipped here being brought from the interior parts. The distillery is carried on by a company. The whisky made is chiefly sent to the London market Fire-bricks, and a lit- tle magnesia are also exported ; but there are no import or export merchants in the proper sense of the word. There are two villa- ges, North Ferry and Hillend. Means of Communication. — There is in the burgh a principal or assorting post-office, from which bags are daily dispatched INVERKEITHING. 245 to the neighbouring places and chief towns. At about a mile from the North Ferry the main road sends branches to Torryburn, Dunfermline, and Kirkaldy, respectively running nearly three, and two miles through the parish, — the great north road from which these strike off extending through it for six miles. There are two four-horse coaches, which run every lawful day from Edin- burgh through the burgh, one to Perth, and the other to Aberdeen, besides the mail daily. There are two two-horse coaches between Dunfermline and Edinburgh, which pass within a little distance of the burgh. There is also an easy communication from North Ferry by several steam-boats to Leith, Stirling, and intermedi- ate ports. The bridges in the parish are small, the streams be- ing of a trifling description. The fences on the sides of the pub- lic roads in several places are certainly not the best in the parish* There is an iron rail-road, made about twenty-five years ago, re- placing a wooden one of a much older date, used for conveying coals from Halbeath, and stone to be shipped at the harbour. The length of it is five miles, one of which is within the parish, and three upon the very boundary between it and that of Dun- fermline. The harbour is a pretty good one, and may be greatly improved and deepened by the removal of the mud. Vessels of 200 tons burden can load and sail from it at the spring-tides ; but it is generally frequented by smaller vessels. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated in the middle of the burgh. The town population are all within five minutes walk of it, and the greater part of the country people within two miles ; about an hundred may be farther distant ; but none farther than three miles except the inhabitants of one family in a small cottage. It was built in 1826, replacing the one which was partly burnt the year before, and is in a good state of repair. No benefac- tions are on record. The church has a handsome appearance, commodious and elegant within, and ornamented with two rows of pillars running through it, having arches in the style of a Gothic cathedral. There is a very old steeple adjoining the west end of it, containing a large bell and a public clock. The building accommodates nearly a thousand persons. It has only one gallery, opposite the pulpit, which is allotted to the magistrates and eouncil, and four of the principal heritors ; but, by the erection of side galleries, which the heritors have pledged themselves to exe- cute when necessary, it would contain about three hundred more, —almost the amount of accommodation legally required for the 246 F1FESHIRE. whole population of the parish. Nearly the whole of the sittings are free. Two-thirds of them belong to the landward heritors, who give the use of them to their tenants and their servants, and many others. The other third belongs to the burgh, for the use of the inhabitants. An attempt was made to let those of the burgh, but so ill did it succeed, that, in the Treasurer's printed accounts for 1834, the sum received for seat rents, "is stated to be 7s." In the meantime, the people occupy these seats with- out ceremony. The manse was built in 1798, and has attached to it the usual legal accommodations, a barn, stable, byre, and wash- ing-house. The garden wall is six feet high, with a coping. There was no manse before that date, but only an allowance of L. 40 Scots paid for house rent. There was a small manse of a " but and a ben" in the parish of Rosyth, which was pulled down about thirty years ago, — and at that place there are still the ruinous walls of the church and a considerable space of burying-ground, around it. There are two glebes,— one for each of the united parish- es. They originally consisted of about 8 acres, but when excambed about twenty years ago, a greater quantity was given on account of the ground being inferior in quality, so that, including the grass ground, the glebe now amounts to 12£ acres, and might rent for about L. 40. The stipend has been thrice augmented since 1792 ; the last was. in 1823, and is now seventeen chalders, half meal, and half barley, convertible at the county fiars, with L. 10 money for communion elements. It is understood that the free teinds are nearly exhausted. There is a dissenting meeting-house in the town, belonging to the United Associate Synod. The stipend of the minister is L. 130, paid from the seat rents, together with a house, garden, and small grass park. The patronage of the parish is held by Lady Baird Preston, relict of General Sir Da- vid Baird, Baronet. The number of families belonging to the Establishment, according to the minister's visitation list, is about 400, containing about 1625 persons, — the usual proportion of whom attend public worship in the church. The communicants are ge- nerally about 400. The number of persons in connection with the dissenters residing within the parish is, according to a list of the late incumbent, about 1125. The ministers and the people, both of the Established and the Dissenting churches, maintain a friendly in- tercourse with each other, and show a good feeling and a Christian spirit The people in their general character are industrious and active, peaceable and contented, well affected, and much attached INVERKEiTHING. 247 to their ministers, and attend duly upon the public ordinances of religion. That are some Penny a-week Societies for mis- sionary and religious purposes ; and there are occasional collec- tions made at the church door for Highland Schools, the India Mission, and other similar objects. Education. — There is a parochial school, in which are taught English, writing, arithmetic, Latin, Greek, French, geography,, mathematics, &c. The teacher has the maximum salary ; there is a good dwelling-house, and an elegant adjacent school-house* The school fees may amount to about L. 70. There are six pri- vate schools, in which the ordinary branches of education are taught, and in which the teachers are supported by the school fees alone. One is a female school for the higher and ornamental branches of education. There is also a Sabbath day school, which meets both before and after public worship, and is supported by subscriptions and collections, and attended by numerous scholars. The expense of education is moderate, being per quarter 3s. for English ; 4s. for English and writing; 5s. for arithmetic ; 7s. for Latin ; and the same for French. The number of scholars attending all these schools is very nearly 400. Literature. — There are three libraries, — a subscription, a circu- lating, and a congregational one belonging to the dissenters, but none of them contain any great number of books. Poor and Parochial Funds* — The number of poor receiving pa- rochial aid belonging to the Established Church, was, during last year (1835) 43. The accounts of the current year cannot be made up, until the end of it. The allowances given them vary from 6d. to 2s. 6d. per week, proportioned according to their wants. The collections at the church door are upon an average, L. 20 annually, and the subscription or assessment upon the heri- tors for the year above-mentioned was L. 110, out of which there are L. 10 given to the dissenters in aid of their paupers. There are some small salaries paid to clerks, and church-officers. The heritors pay according to their valued rents. Prisons. — The jail is by no means secure, — several escapes have been made from it. Excepting a vagrant or rioter upon the streets, and that for a night, incarceration in this prison is a rare event. It is superintended by one of the town-officers. Fairs. — There are 5 fairs appointed to be held in this burgh, which were once well attended by dealers in horses, cattle, and merchant's goods ; but they are now merely nominal, no business 248 FIFESHIRE. being dote. There is, however, one upon the first week of Au- gust, which is frequented in the afternoon by numbers of people from the country districts. There being a horse and a foot race for small prizes given from the funds of the burgh, there is abund- ance of gingerbread and sweetmeats for sale, as well as drink, with many of which the people regale themselves and their friends in 'the public houses in the evening. Inns. — Including the back shops of grocers, there are 23 houses in the burgh where spirits may be bought in small quantities, and drunk upon the premises. Two of them only are inns for the reception and entertainment of travellers. In the North Ferry, there are 13 such places, including the great inn, and a secondary one, and in the rest of the parish there are three, making in all 30 ; but some of these are required to accommodate passengers at North Ferry, and travellers upon the public road from Edinburgh to Perth and Inverness. Fuel. — The fuel is coal of various kinds, procured from diffe- rent pits, and at the distance of from four to seven miles from the burgh. The price, including carriage, may be from 5s. to 9s, per ton, according to the quality and distance from the colliery. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the Statistical Account in 1793 was published, a remark- able difference has taken place in the parish. The state of agricul- ture has been greatly advanced, and the general appearance of the town much improved. It is rather against the interest of the burgh, that none of the great heritors reside within the parish. The place is favourable for carrying on manufactories of various kinds, hav- ing numerous facilities, — yet no person of capital and enterprise has ever engaged in trade or commerce upon a large and exten- sive scale. There used to be some years ago, strong political con- tests in the burgh, which frequently led the parties to the Court of Session, and when these regarded the election of a Member of Parliament, they were sometimes carried to the House of Commons* This arose from the very peculiar set of the burgh. The members of council continued in office during life and residence, and the minority could not be turned out, and their places filled up with more friendly adherents. * The struggle between the parties was thus kept up, and maintained with much activity and contentious- ness. It is recorded in the session books, in 1720, " that the kirk-session unanimously twice postponed, and finally omitted the celebration of the sacrament at that time," " on account of the great animositie and disagreement that is in the place." Several AUCHTERTOOL. 249 instances could be given at a latter period of the same political and contentious spirit Matters are now more quietly and peace- ably managed. The burgh and parliamentary elections excite no great interest among the inhabitants. November 1886. PARISH OF AUCHTERTOOL, PRESBYTERY OF KIRKALDY, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. DAVID GUILD, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Auchter is said to be a Gaelic word, signifying a height, and Tool seems to be a corruption of Tiel, a rivulet which rises in the parish and runs through it ; hence Auchtertool signifies the higher grounds on the Tiel. It does not appear that its name has undergone any alteration from that originally given it Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is about 3 miles long, and about 1J wide on the average, comprising 4 square miles, equal to 2570 imperial acres. It is bounded on the north by the parish of Auchterderran ; on the north-west, by the parish of Beath ; on the south, by the parishes of Kinghorn, Burntisland, and Aberdotir ; on the east and north-east, it is at some points conterminous with the parishes of Kinghorn and Abbotshall. Topographical Appearances. — Its figure is irregular, but ap- proaches nearer to that of a parallelogram than any other regular figure. There is a range of hills at the west end of the parish, commonly called Cullalo hills; their acclivity on the south side is very steep, and the elevation of the highest above the level of the sea is 750 feet. In regard to each other, the difference of eleva- tion is inconsiderable. The climate is temperate and salubrious. The dryness of the soil throughout the most populous part of the parish, its moderate distance from the sea, and its elevation above it, must naturally contribute to its salubrity, and to the healthiness of its inhabitants. Hydrography. — There are springs by which the inhabitants of this parish are abundantly supplied with water ; some of these are 250 FIFESHIRE. intermittent ; but generally they are perennial. The former being produced by the excess of surface water, are commonly impure, and the water of course fit for few purposes; but the latter are sufficiently numerous and copious for the accommodation and comfort of the in- habitants. Some of these seem to flow from freestone, others from whinstone. There are no mineral springs in the parish. There is not a river; but there are several perennial streams of water, which run through the parish, one of which runs into Camilla-loch, situ- ated near the east end of the parish. The loch derives its name Camilla from the old house of Camilla, anciently called Hallyards, belonging to the family of the Skenes; but acquired the name of Camilla from the residence of one of the Countesses of Moray, whose name was Campbell. It contains perch, pike, and eels. Its surface extends to 18 acres ; its greatest depth is 22 feet The site of the loch is capable of much ornamental and not unprofitable im- provement. Its north side is bounded by a steep eminence cover- ed with furze, interspersed with spots of a rocky substance appear- ing through them, which nature seems to have intended for wood plantation, as it is fit for nothing else. There are grounds scatter- ed around it of the same description. These, covered with planta- tions, with the ruin of the ancient house of Hallyards, together with remaining traces of old baronial style, adjacent to the loch, would present to the eye a romantic and interesting aspect. There are two cascades, one of which is on the boundary of the south side of the parish. There is another contiguous to Camil- la loch, at the head of a deep narrow ravine, the sides of which are extremely steep, rising in nearly a perpendicular direction. They consist of rugged rocks interspersed with spots of soil, where some very rare plantsare to be found, and, accordingly, it is occasion- ally the resort of botanists. The streams of water which form these cascades are commonly small ; but after a heavy fall of rain, or ef- fectual thaw of snow, they swell to a considerable extent Geology and Mineralogy. — There are freestone, trap, or whin- stone, and limestone in the parish. The first is not in much repute, and is .seldom wrought The second is used chiefly for road metal, rarely for building. The last, which is on the property of Lord Moray, and of Captain Erskine Wemyss, is wrought by their tenants, and exclusively for their form purposes ; none has ever been wrought for sale. In the kinds of rocks mentioned no species of ore is found. There are various kinds of soil in the parish ; the loamy ; the clayey, partaking considerably of the nature of till; and the mossy. 51 AUCHTERTOOL. 2)& The first is the most productive ; some parts of the second, which have been drained and well cultivated, are little less fruitful ; but by far the greater part of this kind, remaining in its original wet and sour state, is much less productive. By far the greater part of the mossy is entire moss, and has never been cultivated: from its great depth, and the impracticability of draining, it seems in* capable of cultivation. The loamy soil lies chiefly on the south side of the parish, where the climate is best; the clayey and mossy on the north and west sides of the parish, where the climate is worse. The loamy soil varies from less than a foot to five feet deep. Its subsoil is what is commonly called rotten rock, which, when trenched and exposed to the varieties of weather, is soon converted into soil apparently of the same kind with the surface. Zoology, — There are few species of animals here which are not to be found in the parishes bounding the north and west sides of this. m The only species here not common to all other parishes, are a few grouse at the west end of the parish, and lapwings much more numerous. The heron, too, sometimes makes its appearance in winter. The live-stock consists almost wholly of horses and black-cattle. Of the former, few are purchased ; almost the whole of them are bred and reared by the farmers, for their farm pur- poses, rarely for sale ; and what are retained for farm-work are kept in high order, with full feeding and full work. Almost all the black-cattle in the parish are bred or reared in it ; few com- paratively are purchased for feeding ; but as most of the farmers cannot have bred on their farm as many as are required to be rear- ed for feeding and for sale, the deficiency is supplied by purchas- ing calves wherever they find them, in consequence of which the stock is invariably mixed ; but with regard to what is bred on the farms, the greatest care and judgment are exercised to obtain the best kind. The Fife breed is the kind generally preferred, and sought ; but if that breed exists pure, it is rarely if ever to be seen. There are many very good cows in Fife; but it is doubted whether there be a pure Fife cow in the county. But though what would be preferred may not be obtained, yet the care and skill in breed- ing the choicest kinds to be had, appears in the value to which the animals are brought One farmer has of late years preferred the Teeswater ; a kind not known to be bred or reared in the pa- rish before. They came to great value; some rising three years old have been sold at L. 20, when markets were low. There is only one farm in the parish, on which any sheep are 252 FIFESH1RB. grazed ; and it is within the last three years, that these have been introduced ; they are all of the Cheviot breed. About 860 are purchased annually, about the month of July, and sold again at different times, according as they advance to condition for the shambles, till the whole be sold off, to give place for a new lot at the usual time of purchasing. They have been found a profitable species of stock. On the farm alluded to, the number is on the increase, and though the parish be rather adapted to corn growing than grazing, yet the success of the experiment already made, is so decided, and so well known, that that species of stock is likely to become more numerous in the parish. Botany. — There is a great variety of plants, among which the rarer species are the Imperatoria ostruthium (at Camilla ruins ;) Gagea lutea, Petasites albus, Saxifraga wnbrosa, Viola odorata, ( Auchtertool Linn.) A few trees, scattered throughout the parish, are to be seen, but not the semblance of a plantation. However, as that species of improvement has lately advanced to the very boun- daries of thef parish, it is to be hoped that it will not stop there. There are many places within its bounds which invite the planter, encouraging him by holding out to view an improvement both pro- fitable and ornamental. There is little doubt that the capability of these grounds will in course draw the attention of the Noble pro- prietor, whose taste, like that of his noble ancestors, for both useful and ornamental improvements (particularly plantation) is so ap- parent in other parts of his extensive domains. II. — Civil History. Land-owners, — With the exception of three portions of land held in feu from Lord Moray, amounting to twenty acres or there- about, the Earl of Moray and Captain Erskine Wemyss are the only land-owners in the parish. Parochial Registers. — These extend as far back as 1670 ; but till within the last fifty or sixty years, they have been, very irregu- larly kept Modern Buildings. — There are none in the parish worthy of particular remark. The church and manse will be noticed under the head Ecclesiastical State. All the other houses in the parish are of no ancient date, and consist of farms, villagers and cottagers' houses, and a corn mill, which are all built with stone and lime. Till within the last forty or fifty years, there was but one house in the parish covered with blue slate ; the rest were generally covered with wheat straw, a few with tile, and one with gray slate. Most AUCHTKRTOOL. 253 of the houses that have been built recently are covered with blue slate or tile. The use of thatch is almost universally relinquished in the parish. III. — Population. Population in 1 80 1 , - 996 1811, - 501 1821, - 536 1631, - 527 The only apparent probable cause of the increase of popula- tion, is the progress of agricultural improvement. By that and the increased attention to the improvement of roads, a much greater number of labourers is necessary for the latter, and many more, both of males and females, are in demand for the former now, than in former times, whose labour is remunerated with ample wages ; and though the price of their labour does occasionally rise and fall somewhat, yet it is much more steady and uniform than that of the labour of operatives in manufactures. The demand for country labour too, scarcely ever varies, if it does not increase. But the same cannot be said of the labour of operatives in manufacturing towns. Formerly too, females were but little employed in agri- cultural work ; but, with the progress of improvement, the demand for their labour has increased so much that every farmer pre- fers for his cottager, the man who has daughters that will work in his field, for which they are liberally paid. Their labour consists in hoeing potatoes, in hoeing and hand-weeding turnips, and other drilled crops. In harvest they are employed in reaping, and of course receive reaper's wages. Nor are they without employment in winter. They are frequently employed at thrashing-mills, and in pulling and preparing turnips for cattle. It is obvious that, in this state of things, there is a tendency to induce the labouring classes of both sexes to resort to country villages and cottar-houses for residence, where employment is always to be had. The rate of wages, compared with the price of grain, is always high, and less fluctuating than in trade and manufactures ; accordingly the num- ber of village and cottar-houses has been increasing, and latterly with great rapidity. K umber of persons residing in two villages, - . .404 in the country, - - 128 The yearly average of marriages for the last 7 years, . 6 of births, - • 11 No registers of deaths. The average number of persons under 16 years of age, - - 176 between 15 and 30, - - 136 30 and 50, 124 60 and 70, - .69 upwards of 70, 27 3 254 FIFESHIRE. Proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, 2 Number of bachelors upwards of 50 years of age, - 7 of widowers 8 of widows, 12 of unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age, • 24 of families, . . J 25 Average numl>er of children in each family, - ' . 3£ Of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - 27 in trade, manufacture, and handicraft, - 32 Number of inhabited houses, - . 116 of houses uninhabited, 6 No Insane or fatuous. One blind, (the disease not natural, but contracted.) None deaf or dumb. Character, $*c. of the People. — The people are without any thing peculiar in their manners or customs, and enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts suitable to their respective places in society, and are moral and religious, regular in their attendance on divine service, and in their observance of the ordinances of the gospel. During the last three years, there were 4 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — According to the best information to which the writer of this Account has had access, the number of acres of standard imperial measure which are either cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, is ... 1660 Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly waste or in pasture, . .... 900 Number of acres that might, with a profitable application of capital, be added to the cultivated land of the parish, whether that land were afterwards to be kept in occasional tillage or in pasture, . . • 450 Rent of hand. — Average rent of arable land per imperial acre in the parish L. 1, 3s. ; average rent of grazing, rating it at L. 2, 6s. per cow or full-grown ox, grazed for the season, or ) 0s. per sheep, grazed for the year, is, per imperial acre, L. 1, 3s. The real rent of the parish is L. '2165. Husbandry. — The rotations generally adopted in the parish are as follows: viz. First rotation, 1. green crop; 2. wheat, barley, or oats, with grass seeds ; 3. hay ; • 4. oats. Second rotation, I. green crop; 2. wheat, barley, or oats, with grass seeds; 3. pasture ; 4. pasture ; 5. oats. . Rate of Labour. — Ploughmen for the year, L. 12, with victuals ; labourers for the day in summer, without victuals, Is. 8d. to 2s. 6d., in winter Is. 6d."to 2s.; women's wages in summer without vic- tuals 9d. per day, in winter 7d. In harvest, men with victuals generally 2s. per day ; women with victuals Is. 6d. per day, wrights and masons by the day, without victuals, in summer, 3s., in winter, 2s. to 2s. 6d. AUCHTERTOOL. 255 Prices. — The selling price, in common years, of the different kinds of grain grown in the parish may be rated as follows : Wheat, L. 2, 13s. lOd. ; barley, L. 1, 9s. lid.; oats, L. 1. 2s. 4d. per im- perial quarter. The average price of different articles of parochial produce re* quired for the purpose of domestic economy. — Oat-meal per im- perial stone, Is. 7£d. ; pot barley, 2d per imperial lb. ; cheese made of milk after the cream is taken from it, 4d. per imperial lb. ; ditto made with the cream in it, 6d. per imperial lb. ; eggs per dozen, 6d. ; hens each Is. 6d. ; chickens, 7d. each ; potatoes, Is. 6d. per bushel. Live^Stock. — Of late years, the farmer's attention has been turn- ed to the rearing and feeding of black-cattle, much more than in former times, when the price of grain was higher. They find that this branch of husbandry makes a better return in money, than the growing of grain at the low prices, during a currency of years past ; while it enriches the land, by increasing the quantity of ma- nure. Accordingly, the growing of turnips and potatoes is now much increased. Every farmer is desirous to have as much land in pas- ture, and green crop, as the nature and extent of his farm will, allow. Till within these last three or four years, little had been done in draining and reclaiming waste land. There is but one farm in the parish, on which either of these improvements has been carried to any considerable extent. On the farm alluded to, much has been done in both. The same improvements are becoming more general in the parish than formerly ; but the progress is slow. The reclaimed lands extend to 40 acres or thereby ; they consist chiefly of eminences formerly covered with furze, on some parts of which the soil was extremely thin. But the nature of the sub- soil renders it comparatively easy to add to its depth. The subsoil consists of what is commonly called rotten rock, which, when turned up by the plough, or any other implement, (though in pieces similar to that of road metal,) is soon reduced by the va- rieties of weather, and converted into fertile soil. Where the - plough may not be convenient and efficient, the pick and spade can be used with complete success ; and the labour, though more expensive, will still be profitable. In this way, the thin soil on the tops of knolls, in which some fields in the parish abound, might be deepened at a cost which the improvement would amply repay. The present manse garden was made of a piece of ground where the average depth of soil did not exceed two inches. It was 256 FIFESHIRE. trenched with the pick and the spade, planted with potatoes the subsequent spring, the crop of which repaid the outlay; and now it is excellent garden ground. On the farm alluded to, draining also has been carried to con- siderable extent, and is still progressing. Surface draining is the kind appropriate to the nature of the soil there, and also to the chief portion of land in the parish, where draining is necessary. On the north side of the parish it consists chiefly of clay or till, — on soine parts, with a thin surface of softer mould. Of course, the efficiency of the drains depends much on their closeness to one another. Till of late, that method of draining seems to have been little understood in the parish, as it has been resorted to only re- cently, and there remains great scope for the extension of that im- provement Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years. In most if not in all cases, it would be advantageous both to proprie- tor and tenant, to have the leases extended a few years longer. It would give greater encouragement to the tenant to lay out capital on permanent improvement, by holding out to his view a more cer- rf tain prospect of remuneration for that outlay. The nature and condition of the farm, the nature and extent of the improvement it needs, and of which it is capable, ought to determine the length of the lease. Farm-Buildinffs and Inclosures. — With the exception of one, every farm in the parish is accommodated with buildings adequate to its value and extent, and in a good state of repair. The same cannot be said of farm inclosures. The parish is almost all inclosed, partly with stone dikes, and partly with thorn hedges. Part of the former is new and substan- tial, the rest is less sufficient As to the hedges, there is not an enclosure sufficiently fenced, where a hedge is the fence. This is owing to the very general inattention to the proper method of plant- ing and training, together with the no less frequent neglect of cleaning. Instead of the plants being assorted, and the weak planted apart from the strong, they are mixed together, and thus the former are hurt and kept down by the more vigorous growth of the latter. In training, too, instead of cutting only the lateral growth till the hedge has advanced to the height at which it is in- tended to remain, the top is cut as often as the sides ; and in this way the hedge is converted into a thicket of small twigs, without stamina sufficient to resist the force of cattle attempting to pene- trate through it Cleaning, too, is seldom sufficiently attended to ; AUCHTERTOOL. 257 and from these causes, together with the various accidents to which hedges are liable, there is not a field in the parish sufficiently in- closed where a hedge is the fence. In all cases, to mend a hedge is difficult ; but throughout this parish the hedges, in many parts, are so far gone, that to reclaim them effectually is impracticable. Quarries* — There are several whinstone quarries opened in the parish, for metal to the turnpike and other roads ; also a free- stone quarry, used sometimes for building village and other cottar houses. The stone is of inferior quality, and is never wrought for sale. There is a limestone quarry on Lord Moray's ground ; also one on Captain Erskine Wemyss's property, which the tenants are permitted to work for farm purposes exclusively; none is wrought for sale. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is exhibited under the following heads : Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man, or domes- tic animals, ..... L. 4849 Of potatoes and turnips, * - - 2184 Of hay, both cultivated and meadow, ... I20O Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 2, 6s. for coir or full grown oi, or sheep at 10s. pastured for the year, - - - - 989 Of cottagers and villagers gardens, - - 40 Total yearly value, L. 9262 Manufactures. — The only thing in the parish that may be con- sidered as allied to manufactures, is an extensive brewery in the village of Auchtertool, which has been long in good repute for its ales, porter, and table-beer. It supplies private families, inns, and alehouses in various places, but the greater part of its ales are usually shipped at Kirkaldy for London. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Totsm. — Kirkaldy is five miles distant from the centre of the parish, where an excellent grain stock-market is held every Saturday ; a cattle-market thrice a-year, and a weekly market for butter and cheese. Villages. — There are two villages in the parish, Auchtertool and Newbigging, the former containing a population of 329, the lat- ter of 75. Means of C irrmunication* — There is no post-office in the pa- rish, nor does any post-office runner pass within five miles of its boundaries, — an inconvenience very much felt However, there are other means of communication which the parish enjoys. 1. The turnpike road between Kirkaldy and Dunfermline runs rather FIFE. R 258 F1FESIIIRE. more than three miles through the parish, and through the most populous part of it — the two villages. About six years ago, a coach commenced running between Kirkaldy and Glasgow on that road, leaving Kirkaldy at half an hour past six o'clock in the morning in summer, at seven in winter, and returning in the afternoon about six o'clock. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the church, with reference to the boundaries of the parish, is central, but inconvenient for the greater part of the population. The villages, which contain by far the greater part of it,, are a mile distant from the church. In 1833) it was thoroughly repaired, and much improved. Its in- terior is finished in a plain, but neat style. It affords accommo- dation for 280 sitters, and the sittings are all free. The manse was built in 1812 in the cottage style, and of Gothic architecture. It is substantially built, handsomely finished, and affords sufficient accommodation. The plan was furnished by Mr Gillespie Graham, architect The glebe, including the site of the manse and the garden, con- tains six imperial acres or thereby, of good dry arable land. The money rent, together with the value of services performed by the tenant, is equal to L. 5, 5s. per imperial acre. There is no grass glebe. The stipend is the minimum, the funds are exhausted, and the sum of L. 81, 9s. is paid annually from the Exchequer, to make up the stipend to L. 150. The number of families attending the Established Church, 92 ; number of families attending the chapels of dissenters and seceders 28. The younger branches of two of these families attend the Established Church. Divine service at the Established Church is generally well attended* The average number of communi- cants there is 185. The average amount of church collections yearly for religious and charitable purposes, L. 12, 14s. Education. — There are 3 schools in the parish ; — the parochial school, a private school, and an infant school. The branches of instruction taught in the parochial school are, reading, English, writing, and arithmetic. Greek and Latin are very rarely requir- ed. The branches taught in the private school, are the same as in the parochial school. In the infant school, are taught reading English, writing, arithmetic, needle-work, and knitting. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 29, 186. lOd. The teacher of the private school receives a gratuity of L. 15 per an- num from Miss Boswell of Balmuto, at whose expense he is fur- AUCHTERTOOL. 259 nished with a school-room also. The infant school is taught by a female, and admits girls only between two and six years old. The teacher receives from Miss Boswell of Balmuto L. 20 per annum, together with a dwelling-house, small garden, and school-room. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodations, dwel- ling house, school-room, and garden. The rates of school fees are, per quarter, reading English, 2s. ; reading English and writing, 2s. 6d. ; arithmetic and writing, 3s. Latin, 5s. The cost of books, stationery, &c. is commonly nearly equal to the fee. There are no young persons in the parish betwixt six and fifteen years of age who cannot read ; and none upwards of fifteen years of age who can neither read nor write. The people in general duly appreciate the benefits of education, and parents in particular feel deep interest in the education of their children. This appears in the average amount of children attending the three schools in the parish, 150. Literature*— There is a parish library in the village of Auch- tertool, established in March 1824. It was established and books purchased, with contributions from the families of Donibristle and Balmuto, and from the minister of the parish. The library, and all its concerns, are under the direction of such of these original contributors as choose to attend to it, whether one or more. The library is now furnished with 215 volumes, consisting of history, travels, voyages, and books on moral and religious subjects. Savings-Bank. — A savings-bank was established in the year 1827. The following is a tabular view of the sums invested yearly, com- pared with the sums annually withdrawn, the last seven years. Years* Deposited. WWidrawn. 1880, L.37 13 6 L. 78 8 9 1831, 56 8 10 39 13 6 183-2, 77 16 10 15 9 9 183.% 35 8 7 106 3 10 1884, 82 5 10 72 7 5 1835, 99 18 3 44 13 11 1886, 148 3 9b 10 7 Balance remaining in the bank at this time, L. 267, 17s. 7 • • • 15 8$ L.12 14 5( Government Bounty, . • • - 82 19 4 Total money, L. 45 13 9 J There was no communion element money in my predecessor's time. The want of this was considered, and allowed for in my Govern- 350 FIFRSH1RE. ment Bounty. The glebe now exceeds the measurement given by my predecessor, 1 acre. 3 roods, and 29 falls. This is owing to an excambion, in which the minister got quantity for quality. The glebe is now much more convenient for the minister than former- ly. He draws a rent for the grass in the church-yard. To return to the church itself, after this view of the temporali- ties of the benefice, it is said, I believe on good traditional autho- rity, to have been built about the fortieth year of David IL's reign. (1369.) His father Robert L had died 1329. Tradition says, that David and his Queen, narrowly escaping shipwreck on the " stormy frith," had found a landing on the shore, hard by St Monan's, and that, as an expression of gratitude for their delive- rance, they had caused to be erected a chapel to St Monan, the tute- lary saint of the place. By David's charter, dated Edinburgh, he grants to this chapel the lands of Easter Birney in Fife, and some lands in the sheriffdom of Edinburgh. James IIL gave it to the Black-friars. It had afterwards a convent at Cupar annexed to it, and both it and the convent were annexed by James V. to a con- vent at St Andrews. The condition which this well known fabric exhibited ten years ago had been its condition for ages. Situated at the west end of St Monan's, and separated from it by a small brook, and within fifty yards of what is shown as St Monan's Cell, it exhibited a beautiful specimen of Gothic archi- tecture, in the form of a cross, with a steeple of hewn stone in the centre, square so far, and terminating in aspire of eight sides. There remained no vestige of building from the steeple westward ; but to the north and the south of it, were to be seen the unroofed remains of a transept, or wings, at right angles to the body of the fabric The main part of the building, extending eastward from the spire, with vaulted roof, as well described by my predecessor, and in Sibbald, was used, as above-mentioned, as the parish church. How- ever interesting to the antiquarian, it was most uncomfortable as a place of worship ; damp, cold, its walls covered with green mould, and presenting altogether an aspect of chilling desolation. In 1772, the late incumbent, in respect of its uncomfortable and ruinous condition, raised a process for repairs before the Presby- tery, and obtained a decreet against the heritors for repairs, ex- tensive and substantial The heritors conceived that this was not an expense with which they otight to be burdened, forasmuch as the feuars of St Mo- 4 ABERCROMBIE. 351 nan's, by their charter as above quoted, were bound to uphold the fabric. The heritors accordingly had recourse upon the feuars — the latter resisted, and the matter came before the Court of Session. The feuars were found liable to uphold the building in terms of their charter. They did therefore apply a repair, but very partial, and by no means amounting to what had been decerned by the Presbytery, " and nothing more," says my predecessor in 1790, " has yet been done/' Down to 1825, it continued the uncomfortable decaying fabric above described. But a great deal has now been done. Early in February 1826, the present incumbent brought the state of the church before the Presbytery. A visitation in the usual form took place, the heri- tors being competently represented, and tradesmen attending, ac- cording to citation. Upon thorough inspection, the tradesmen for- mally condemned the church. The heritors* representatives crav- ing delay, the Presbytery did not immediately decern. Another meeting was appointed, against which the heritors engaged to have the opinion of Mr Burn, architect This gentleman being applied to, visited the church, and with strong professional enthusiasm, de- precated the idea of its being abandoned to ruin, and gave his de- cided opinion as to its capability of being repaired into a beautiful specimen of ecclesiastical architecture, and a place of worship sin- gularly well adapted for seeing and hearing. This report coinciding with the previous views of the heritors, and approved by the Pres- bytery, was immediately acted upon ; and after all the tedious forms connected with so great a work, we were, in June 1828, put into occupation of one of the most beautiful places of worship of which the country can boast There was a lofty communication opened under a splendid arch betwixt the main building and the area of the steeple. The side-wings to the north and south, forming the transept, were raised to the height of the principal building, and finished in the same style with the original roof. The pulpit was removed to the west end, immediately in front of a magnificent Go- thic window. There were opened four similar windows in the south wall, and two in the north, and we were provided with a commodi- ous vestry behind the church. The heritors abandoned the claim they had upon the feuars for upholding the fabric; but thought it reasonable that, as an in- demnification for the great sum laid out by them, (not less than L. 1780,) they should receive a moderate seat rent from the feuars. This arrangement (consented to by the feuars) still subsists, one 352 PIFESHIRE. of the most reasonable instances that can be conceived of seat rents drawn by heritors. It appears the more reasonable in the following views ; that the rents have been twice reduced ; that they are now only Is* a sitting; and that, besides the original sum of L. 1730, the heritors, upon two different occasions, 1829-1836, have come forward, and at an expense, 1st, of L. 40, and 2d, of L. 17, have ordered a strengthening of the roof by additional couples, for the removal of apprehensions, in regard to the safety of the building. This unfortunate state of matters, in regard to the church, makes it somewhat difficult to say, who are or are not members of the Established Church. We are in a transition state. Respect- able parishioners are still absenting themselves. But we are not aware of many having joined Dissenting congregations. There is no Seceding or Dissenting place of worship in the parish ; nor are there now, we should think, above twenty-five grown up per- sons in the bounds who acknowledge any dissenting minister as their adopted pastor. The church is seated for 528; deduct free sittings for the poor 36 ; preserved for heritors, their families, and their servants, farmers, their children and servants, the elders and minister's, and schoolmaster's seats, 200 ; there remain for letting, 292 ; an ample supply for the parishioners, and considerably ex- ceeding the number of applicants. The number of persons of all ages attending the Established Church, we cannot, in present circumstances, state with accuracy. But, without reference to our late alarms, we might say, towards 300. There should be many more, and we lament that there are not. Clerical means are used to augment the attendance, but we are apt to have offered as excuses, the difficulty of hearing, the want of decent clothing, the coldness of the church, especially in winter, — artificial heat, by means of stoves or otherwise, never having been introduced. The average number of communicants may be given at 210. It is low compared with the population. Many are absent at sea, when the sacrament is dispensed in summer, and when we have it in February, when the men are at home, it fells in with the throng of the winter herring-fishing. There is in the parish an Abercrombie and St Monan's Bible and Missionary Society of some years standing. But, from want of unanimity among the members as to the disposal of the funds, ABERCROMBIE. 353 it has greatly declined from its original efficiency, and seems verg- ing to total extinction. Education. — We have one parochial school. The average num- ber attending was given in at last examination at 51 boys and 35 girls = 86. The schoolmaster has the legal accommodations, and the maximum salary. His fees are, reading per quarter, 2s. ; writing 2s. 6d. arithmetic, 3s. ; Latin, 5s. ; no additional charge has hither- to been made for English grammar or geography. The fees may amount to L. 25, or L. 30 a year. The parochial schoolmaster, altogether proprio motu 9 carries on efficiently and acceptably a Sabbath evening schooL There is another school in St Monan's upon the teacher's own adventure. I do not understand his fees or the branches taught to be different from those of the parochial school. He is of the Established Church, his num- bers 67. There has been recently established in the parish by Lady Anstruther of Balcaskie, an infant school, which is also supported by her ladyship, and promises to be of great benefit to the place. None of the children at other schools in the pa- rish, cost less than 2s per quarter, none more than 5s. There is no quarter of the parish so distant from school, as to be a bar to attendance.- There are no additional schools required. But a sewing school might possibly be of advantage. From the irregular attendance of children at school the people here might be thought less alive to the benefits of. education than they really are. But they are so dependent upon the services of the children in some of the fishing departments, that they are constrained to keep them from school when they would be glad that they could attend it. Many parents, however, are culpably remiss in enforcing atten- dance. Friendly Societies. — Of friendly societies we have the following: The Sea-box Society, supposed to have been instituted about the time of the union of the Crowns. Its articles are fair and judicious, but too numerous and complicated for insertion, and it were diffi- cult to make a selection. There is one important improvement which the society have recently sanctioned. While they pronounce it necessary, that sea-faring people shall always constitute a clear majority of the members of the society; and while they find coun- tenance in this from the practice of the generality of friendly so- cieties, they resolve, "that, with the preference specified, persons, of whatever occupation, shall be alike eligible as to admission, and equally so, with regard to the benefits, as well as the offices and fife, z 354 FIFESHIRE. honours of the Sea- Box Society, conforming to their regulations/' &c. The society's funds are represented as in a flourishing state, and answering the end of the institution. There is also distinct from this, the Brotherly Society, insti- tuted July 1821. Savings Bank. — There are two sayings banks, one of a good many years standing; the other instituted December 1835. With regard to it, I have been informed that its deposits (in the National Bank, Anstruther,) amount to about L. 2 per week. There is also a female savings bank, reported to be doing well. The invest- ments in these banks are by the fishing and labouring classes. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The heritors and session have a re- gular meeting every half year about the middle of June and the middle of December, when they audit the treasurer's accounts, ad- just the poor's roll for the ensuing half year, and come to a deci- sion upon matters of parochial business. Our average, taken half yearly, from 1st January 1335, to 31st December 1836, gives us of pensioners 19, at 3s. 2d. nearly per month. . The session's yearly income from all sources, from 1st October 1835, to 30th September 1836, amounts to L. 39, Is. 9£d. ; * ses- sion's expenditure for the said year L. 9.1, 5s., leaving a deficit, supplied by the heritors in voluntary assessment, L. 52, 3s. 2£d. Prisons. — There are two prisons in St Monan's, under one roof, one on the upper floor of the town-house, the other on the ground floor. They are equally well secured ; the lower, by much the more dismal of the two. Prisoners are committed to the one or the other according to their pre-eminence in delinquency. The ma- gistrates imprison as sudden emergency calls for it ; but they do not impose fines, except with the formalities of a regularly con* stituted court So far as I have occasion to hear, imprisonment is a rare occurrence. Inns, Sfc. — As this place is no thoroughfare, there can hardly be • Sessional means of meeting expenditure. Collections at church door, exclusive of those at the sacrament, L. 8 18 U£ Rent for land belonging to the session, . . . 21 Rent for a house, . . . . . . 2 12 Interest of money, . . . . . 2 16 Collections at the sacrament twice in the year, including all the preach- ing days, . . . . . 2 17 6 L.38 4 5^ Add to the collections -Id. each Sabbath to beadle, . 17 4 L.39 1 94 ABERCROMBIE. 355 said to be in it one traveller's inn, where there is regular stabling or posting. But there are too many ale-houses, and their effect upon the morals of the people is highly unfavourable. . • Fuel. — Fuel is an expensive article here. Coal, exclusive of toll, may be stated at Is. 3d. the load of 22 stone ; Is. 4d. if toll be in- cluded ; a cart load of 4£ stone laid down at Abercrombie, with hire and toll included, would stand 8s. 5£d. It is a coal at four miles distance that is referred to, — Earlsferry. Sir Ralph An- struther has lately opened a coal in the neighbourhood at Is. a load of 22 stone. Miscellaneous Observations. There is one variation of rather an unpleasant kind betwixt the present state of the parish and people, and that which subsisted at the time of the last Statistical Account They are certainly less shy than formerly in applying for and receiving parochial aid. My predecessor says, " There are now upon the poor's list three persons and two orphans." At present there are nineteen. There are no indications of such an increase of poverty as can account for this difference. The truth is, that the spirit of independence, which shrunk from being troublesome in coming upon the fund, is now greatly broken down. It is natural to think that the fine edge of delicacy will be blunted as the number of receivers increase, to keep one another in countenance. Whatsoever is given, how- ever, is received thankfully, and it is so far consoling that pauperism has not been upon the increase these some years. It is, at the same time, a compensating fact, that our collections, though still extremely moderate, are very far beyond what they were forty years ago. Within these last twenty years, there has been a marked improve- ment in the style of the farm-houses and farm offices in the parish. It seems to be no unwarranted assertion, that the people are im- proving in general intelligence, and in their acquaintance with the truths of religion.* January 1837. * In stating the amount of stipend, the author has omitted the stipend from Bal- caskie. The following is the actual grain stipend : Qr. B. P. L. Qr. B. P. Abercrombie, . Barley, 32 3 1 1 Oats, 4 5 \\ Balcaskie, 28 7 3 28 7 3 PARISH OF DUNINO. PRESBYTERY OF ST ANDREWS AND SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. JAMES ROGER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Etymology. — The parish of Dunino, pronounced by the inhabitants Dununie, is of more consideration for its antiquity, neighbourhood, and recent rapidity of improvement, than for its ex- tent, or value as a section of its county. The reporter to Sir John Sin- clair on this parish 6rst assumes that its name is Den-ino, which it is not ; and then proceeds to account for its derivation from words signifying " a village on a large and deep den." But there has not been, time out of mind, any thing which can be called a village in the parish : and the " den, so deep and large," is no- thing more than the beds which have been formed by two little streams, which after their union are able to turn a saw-mill. For fifty-four years after the commencement of the parochial register in 1643, the name of the parish is uniformly spelt Duynyno, Du- nynow, or Dunnonow, the first syllable always being Dun, till 1697, when it was first corrupted into " Dennino." The highest eminence in the parish is 1J furlong north of the church, scarcely 300 feet above the level of the sea, and on which tradition relates there was a nunnery ; and the foundation stones of it were removed, twenty-two years ago, during the present minister's incumbency. There is as much evidence that the parish received its name from the nunnery, as can generally be obtained in cases of this kind. The register of the priory of St Andrews, append- ed to the second volume of Mr Pinkerton's History, and drawn up about the year 1250, shows that the ancient names of places in this parish and neighbourhood are Gaelic. Martine of Clermont, Secretary to Archbishop Sharpe, in his " Remains of St Andrews,'* written in 1685, calls the parish of Dunino, " the Rectory of Dunnenaucht," or the hill of young women, evidently referring to the nunnery. The same author gives a copy of a charter granted by the Archbishop of St Andrews, so far back as October 4, 1479, DUNINO. 357 in which Dunino is called " Dynnenoch," precisely of the same import Situation and Extent — This parish, including Kingsmuir, ap- proaches to a square form, about 3 miles long, and as many broad. The church is 4 miles south-east of St Andrews, which town is si- tuated North Lat 56°. liK. 33"., and West Long. 2°. 50'. from the Observatory at Greenwich. Dunino parish is bounded by St An- drews and Cameron parishes on the north and west; by those of St Leonards and Kingsbarns, on the north-east and east ; by Crail parish, on the east and south ; and by Carnbee, on the south. It lies 13 miles east of Cupar, the county town ; the same distance south-east from Dundee ; and 37 miles north of Edinburgh. The highway from St Andrews to Anstruther, an extent of nine miles, bisects the parish, and forms the eastern angle of the peninsula, or provincially, the East Nook of Fife. Climate. — The effect of the proximity of Dunino to the sea- coast, added to the recent drainage of the ground, the application of calcareous and putrescent manures, the inclosing by stone fences in every part but Kingsmuir, the partial shading by plantation, — and the wind blowing two-thirds of the year from the south-west, and only one-third from the cold north-east, — has been of much advantage not onlv to the soil, but to the inhabitants. The writer of the for- mer Account mentions that, from thirty to forty years before his time, " scorbutic disorders" prevailed in the parish. These were obviously caused by want of sufficient lodging, clothes, and food* The writer of the former Account, adds, that, in his time, " rheu- matism and hysteric complaints were the chief disorders." An in- stance of rheumatism may no doubt here still occur as in other places ; but certainly the complaint is not general. Hysterical af- fections are here unknown : and intermittent fevers have vanished. Though the chalybeate fountains, eulogized in the former Account, and of which no trace remains, were still available, they would be held useless, from the general health of the present inhabitants. Geology, Mineralogy, and Hydrography. — The parish of Du- nino is situated on the north-east part of the great coal basin of Scotland, supposed to be 90 miles long, and 33 miles broad. It is. believed that a square mile of this space will answer the demand yearly. Coal began first to be used in Scotland, near Dunferm- line, in Fifeshire, about 1215. On every estate in the parish, are vestiges of coal- working at some former period ; and very frequent- ly at the surface, appears bituminous schistus or blaes, denoting 358 FIFESHIRE. the presence of this mineral. No coal is at present wrought in the parish, from a belief it would not pay the expense ; and no- thing is more difficult to calculate than the profits of coal-working. The strata unexpectedly may be disturbed by mounds of stone, or may wholly break off or dip beyond reach. Beside the upland path to the church from Bridge -end, there is a projection of disintegrated trap, provincially ratchel or rotten-stone ; across which, are some narrow vertical veins of felspar. Proceeding up Dunino burn- side southward, a few projections of red sandstone, in regular strata, appear. Farther upward, the bed of the burn becomes limestone, and in that proximity the coping of the ministers' out- field glebe under the surface is also limestone. Here also, a stra- tum of coal, 3 feet thick, has been discovered 32 feet under the surface, dipping considerably towards the north. The regulation as to finding coal in glebes gives little encouragement to the incum- bent. His operations may be suspended by the presbytery or any heritor, till, after paying expenses, he deposit his profits in some bank or other sure place, and have only the interest of his deposit for his pains. Some mineralogists assert that coal under limestone is not good, but under sandstone excellent. Now two-thirds of the rocks in this parish are sandstone, not of a large grit called con- glomerate, but small, and often very white, without tinge of ferru- ginous mixture. The exports from the sandstone quarries of Mylnefield, four miles west of Dundee, have brought to the pro- prietor large sums of money. The sandstone quarries of Dunino are as durable in the material, finer in the texture, and better coloured than, those of Mylnefield. Were these Dunino quarries placed within the county of Middlesex, near the great southern metropolis, their value would be incalculable. Some years ago, on the farm of Tosh, in this parish, on a search for marl, there was discovered a considerable quantity of steatites or soap-rock. Had this mass of steatites been preserved, it would have contributed to form a manufactory of porcelain. A mile east from the junction of the three rivulets alluded to above, as passing through the parish, and on the south bank of their united stream called the Kenly Burn, is a cavity containing excellent specimens of stalactites, or dropstone. Along the shore of the German Ocean, to which the Kenly surrenders its waters, is a mass of marble rock, that would suffice to build three of the largest cities in the empire. There may be seen " cochlea marina" and other shells imbedded in thp limestone rock. A small part of those marble rocks have been DUNINO. 359 burned into lime, to manure the adjacent fields. When the mar- ble 19 polished, it presents a beautifully striated appearance of yel- low and white, and might be made a lucrative article of com- merce. Except on the clay soils of Stravithy Mains and Kings- muir, where an ochreous mixture is sometimes found, the water in the rest of the parish passing through a sandy soil is excellent Our fountains in summer are not only cool, but, in their ordinary state, may be compared with those of the most celebrated purity -^-containing not more than three parts in a thousand of saline particles and vegetable matter. Over the fields of Dunino parish, may sometimes be found agates and chalcedonies, and fragments of light blue whinstone or trap, or of black whinstone or basalt ; but there is nothing to throw light on any of the two fashionable theories of geology. Ironstone or haematites is not uncommon in the parish. Recently, a person collected forty tons of that mine- ral from the side of the rivulet which turns Stravithy- mill, and .sent it cost free to Newcastle as ballast. Zoology. — We have all the usual domestic fowls and ordinary birds. Of the two species of Scottish deer, the stag and the roe, only a few of the last mentioned peaceful and timid kind occa- sionally visit .the parish ; and so do a few pheasants and foxes. The vast colonies of rabbits described in the former Statistical Ac- count are now nearly extirpated. It appears from an old charter, that, one hundred and fifty years ago, moorfowl abounded in Kingsmuir, but they have been expelled by the progress of agri- cultural improvement. An attempt was made, a few years ago, to rear a stock of goats of the Angora kind in this parish. They were fed with clover in summer, and with hay and tur- nips in winter, and were very prolific, the female generally having three kids at a birth. But they were so mischievous in their habits, and their milk in so little request in a healthy district like Dunino, and at a distance from a great town, that in five years they were disposed of as unprofitable. There is abundance of pigeons in the parish, of which the minister has annexed to his benefice the principal dovecot. Before 1617, any person at pleasure might erect a pigeon-house, and probably the minister's dovecot was constructed prior to that period. Af- terwards, by law, it was incompetent to build a pigeon-house, unless there was a qualification in the builder, of ten chalders of grain in heritage within two miles of the dovecot, or unless it was purchas- ed from a licensed proprietor. Had it not been for the penalty 3C0 FIFE9HIRE. of L. 1 1 Scotch, or 18s. 4d. Sterling, for the first offence of break- ing into a dovecot or shooting a pigeon, and double that sum for every subsequent offence, the race had been extinct Complaints have been made against the acts of Parliament supporting dove- cots; but it is with the complaints against pigeons as against crows, people think of the grain devoured, without reckoning on the benefit received. Pigeons pick up much grain that would be lost, may- destroy insects in the soil, and certainly feed on wild mustard seed that deteriorates the crop. Sixty-eight pairs, besides keeping up the stock, may furnish yearly an hundred pairs of young to be disposed of at 5d. or 6d. a pair ; and pigeon dung is a most valuable manure. It is sown in Persia with the hand over the corn-fields, to great advantage. For the last seven years, the minister of the parish has manured his garden with it not sparingly, but as co- piously as with the usual animal or vegetable dung; and not only what, is sown or planted prospers generally, but during that space, no instance has occurred of ihe insect touching the gooseberries. Amidst the modern improvements of conveying speedy intelligence by telegraph, by steam navigation and railroads, it is singular that the plan of letter- carrying by pigeons has not been attempted in Britain, so common at the present day in oriental countries. It is well known that a pigeon when young can easily be domesticated. Tne Turks of Aleppo, in Syria, carry on a correspondence with the city of Alexandria in Egypt, with our common domestic pigeons of bluish plumage. They are conveyed in cages to show them the route ; the letter is rolled up under their wing, and in an hour, barring accidents, the pigeon courier arrives at his home destina- tion, over a space which would require four days travel to a human express. From experiments made by the writer of these pages, he has reason to believe, that hares never go far from their native spot. The same observation applies to blackbirds, and perhaps to game of every kind. The redbreast, supposed by some to migrate dur- ing the warm months, lives in the minister's garden all the sum- mer over. II. — Civil History. All the Scottish historians assert, that, on the land-side of St Andrews, was a large district, Called " Cursus Apri," or the Boar's chace, and there is a considerable village, three miles east of that town, still called Boarhills. One of the old names of St Andrews, too, was Mucross, the promontory of the Boars. John Major re- 3 DUNINO. 361 lates, that the boar's chace was conferred by Alexander the Brave, about the year 1107, on some religious establishment in St An- drews; and Marline of Clermont describes this space as What would now amount to from eight to nine English miles long, and from six to seven miles broad. It may appear strange that this forest was permitted so near the gates of a city, the primacy of the kingdom. Dr Southey, in his Travels through Spain, men- tions a " Sierra de Busaco," a desert about Busaco, of four miles circuit, to preserve the solemnity of the enclosed religious esta- blishment; and Caesar, in his sixth book of the wars of Gaul, states, that, in Germany, it was usual to have a wilderness round every city, to avoid a sudden incursion of the enemy. Perhaps reasons more probable than either of the above might be assigned why this waste was allowed to remain so near St Andrews. The bishop of that diocese could cultivate no part of this ** Cursus Apri" before he had a grant of it from King Alexander, as, prior to this, it might be royal hunting ground ; and part of it that was cultivated, unde- niably, as appears from the chartulary of Aberbrothock, paid sti- . pend to the Culdees of Iona. Beside this, at the time of the grant, the diocese of St Andrews not only included many of the most fertile parts of Fife, Angus, and Mearns, East and West Lothian, and the Carse of Gowrie, but twenty-seven Scottish nobles held their lands as its vassals. The Bishop of St Andrews, who was but a Hferenter, might consider the agricultural improve- ment of the " Cursus Apri" as a matter of very inferior conse- quence. In 1244, OLe hundred and thirty-seven years after the royal grant, some agricultural stir had arisen in the " Cursus Apri," then held by the Archdeacon of St Andrews of his superior, the Bishop. This waste extended farther south than the parish of Dunino, and included it ; and the register of the priory of St An- drews, among other places in this vicinity within the " Boar's chace," mentions the following now belonging to this parish, namely, " In- dunnenochen," certainly Dunynach or Dunino. — " Balecately," now Balcaithly ; " Bale," now Bely ; " Pittendruch and Strath- fatha," now Pittendruch and Stravithy ; " Kinaldin," now Kinal- dy. Pittairthy, Kingsmuir, and Primrose, are of far later origin. Dunino had become a parish in 1458, according to Maitland's History, " when it was annexed by Bishop Kennedy to support a collegiate church in St Andrews." It must have, however, been afterwards disjoined from the college church, now called St Leo- nards ; yet there are still two farms belonging to that parish, and 362 FIFESHIUE. unconnected with any other part of it, on the north-east border of Dunino. The parish of Dunino was once much more extensive than at present. It contained the estate of Bonnyton adjoining on the north, and which lately rented at L. 530 a-year ; and it contained on the west* the farm of Brigton, containing 222 acres imperial, and worth now L. 300 annually. Of late years, it has been con- tended by Mr Hannah, proprietor of Kingsmuir, that his proper- ty, consisting of 844 acres Scotch, does not lie in Dunino parish, but in that of Crail. This theory has not the slightest founda- tion. Kingsmuir had originally belonged to the Earl of Fife, but was forfeited to the Crown. It was bestowed by James V. on a gentleman, for assisting to carry military stores to France, about the year 1540; and in 1600, there is an infeftment in favour of the same gentleman's family. Latterly, Kingsmuir became part of the town's revenue of Crail, and afterwards was purchased by the town's revenue of Leith. It became again the property of the Crown, and, posterior to the Restoration, was gifted by Charles II. to a follower of his fortunes, Colonel Borthwick, and who, in 1683, is stated, by the kirk-session register, as also proprietor of the estate of Dunino. In 1710, according to Sir Robert Sibbald, it was wholly waste. In 1727, according to the presbytery record, it contained but four families, the pastoral care of which people was then annexed by the presbytery to the parish of Dunino. This pastoral charge has since been twice repeated by the presbytery, the last time so recently as the year 1829. The poor in 'Kings* muir have been regularly supported by the parish of Dunino. The father and uncle of the present proprietor of Kingsmuir, in eleven of their leases, assert that Kingsmuir lies in Dunino parish ; and in a part of Kingsmuir sold by them to the then proprietor of Bal- caithly, it is declared thrice in the charter of conveyance, that Kingsmuir is situated in Dunino parish, and there is no opposite evidence whatever. The present proprietor of Kingsmuir's name is inserted in the baptismal register of Dunino. A few years ago, the heritors of Dunino raised an action before the Court of Ses- sion against the proprietor of Kingsmuir, to find the property, quoad temporalia 9 in the parish of Dunino, and both the Outer and Inner House decerned in favour of the heritors. At last, weary of the contest, both parties withdrew, each paying his own ex- penses. But neither the United College of St Andrews, who are patrons of Dunino parish, nor the minister of Dunino, had any DUN I NO. 363 hand in the withdrawal ; and they are determined to retain Kingsmuir as part of Dunino parish, which, in case of a new aug- mentation, has funds to benefit the church living, at least L. 60 a-year. Parochial Registers. — When the restoration of Presbyterian go- vernment was ratified by Parliament in 1641, parochial registers were recommended to be kept From April 30, 1643, in a re- gular series to the present period, there are eight volumes of pa- rochial records in tolerable preservation. There is a regist-er of deaths since the year 1752. For many years after 1643, near- ly the whole heritors and principal tacksmen were elders, — an ex- ample worthy of imitation at the present day. The office of the elders was no sinecure, nor were they shy of using their authority. It appears that they were not only the protectors of good morals, but assumed a civil and criminal jurisdiction. In 1660, two men and four women were convicted on their own confession, of " promiscuous dancing," that is, of dancing together at a mar- riage. They escaped with being " sharplie rebuked ;" but the poor piper John Moore, from the next parish of " Carnbie," who acted as minstrel on that occasion, was obliged " to put his hand to the pen," not to repeat the offence, " under a penalty toties quo- ties," which would now be equivalent to a couple of pounds Sterling. Moreover, on the following Sunday, "he was humbled on his knees before the pulpit in face of the congregation," in public penance for his conduct. In 1649, " Alexander Brune was put into the joggs from the second bell to the last bell before sermon on forenoone, and afterwards entered on the place of repentance for the sin of un- cleanness with Elpeth Berown." Though it be stated in the re- cord, that during the above period, the Presbytery on several oc- casions issued their pastoral admonitions against prevailing vices, yet delinquencies were frequently brought before the kirk-session, which would be deprecated in these latter and less zealous days. Weavers are sometimes cited for carrying home their webs to their customers on Sundays, and millers are cited for grinding corn, and reapers for cutting down corn on that holy day. In 1652, the kirk-session of Dunino not only acted as civil and criminal judges, but were patrons of the parish, and settled the minister. Thus, May 30th of that year, it is stated in the record, " that after the afternoon's exercise, the minister intimated out of the pulpit to the people, that the elders had nominate and chosen unanimously, Mr Alexander Edward, Regent in the Old Colledge, to be minister of 364 FIPESHIRE. their said parish ;" and, accordingly, on Wednesday, 18th October following, the presbytery did meet at the church, " for admission of Mr Alexander Edward to the function of the ministrie, and they did admit hira." Notwithstanding the active oppression of Arch- bishop Sharpe in Fifeshire for eighteen years, no county in Scot- land was more zealous for Presbyterianism against Episcopacy ; and during that period, according to Wodrow's history, the inhabitants of " Dunyno," for their opposition, were fined in a sum that would now be equal to L. 1200 Sterling. Eminent Men. — John of Fordun, author of the Scotichronicon, the oldest Scottish historian, is said to have resided for a consider- able time in this parish, — which is the more probable, that he was a native of St Andrew's diocese, of which Dunino formed a part. He spent much of his time in journeying. He travelled over the three kingdoms, in quest of information ; and his history may be called that of the world, as well as of Scotland. * John Winram, Subprior of St Andrews under the excellent and comely Lord James Stuart, eldest of the three illegitimate brothers of Mary Queen of Scots, — after the celibacy of the clergy had been done away by the establishment of the reformed faith — was married to the widow of the proprietor of Kinaldy, in this parish. Both Knox and Buchanan assert, that Mr Winram was appointed by Cardinal Beaton to preach a sermon in the church of St An- drews, on occasion of condemning to death the pious Mr Wishart. Knox gives notes of the sermon, and Beaton was offended at Winram treating a heretic more mildly than he thought a heretic deserved. Buchanan in his history, gives Winram an appropriate text, which he must have had from report, as it is not to be found in Scripture. Mr James Wood, who, according to the parish record, " as mi- nister of Dunonow, preached his valedictorie sermon, May 10, 1646," previous to his becoming minister of St Andrews, was one of the Commissioners who brought over from the continent, King Charles IL, at the era of the Restoration. Mr Wood is said to have been the brother of the proprietor of Stravithy. Lnnd-owners. — The heritors of the parish are as follows, in the orders of their valued rents : Mr Douglas of Dunino and Balcaithly; His reflections on the fair part of the creation, arising from the marriage of King David II. with Miss Logie, whose dispositions were the counterpart of ber beautiful face, and handsome person, are very unchivalrous, " feraina fax Satana, rosa fetens, dulce yenenum." DUNINO. 365 Mr Cleghom of Stravithy ; Mrs Mouat of Pittairthy ; Mr Purves of Kinaldy; Mr Hannah of Kingsmuir, and the Kirk-session of El ie on the south coast All those properties have come into the possession of the families of the present land-owners, within the last thirty-two years, save Pittairthy, Kingsmuir, and Primrose. It is said that Pittairthy, forfeited to the Crown, was sold by Royalty to the Earl of Glencairn, and has continued in a younger branch of that illustrious family till the present day. Kingsmuir has been at least eighty- one years in the family of Mr Hannah. Primrose was a section sold from Balcaithly, within the last forty-six years. Antiquities* — Until within the last few years, there were three war castles or fortalices in the parish. One was on the east of it, over- hanging the south bank of the Kertly, called the Castle of Draffan, supposed to have been built by the Danes, who often invaded the east coast of Fife, and slew one of the Scottish kings at Crail. The second was the Castle of Stravithy, a little west from the centre of the parish. It is described by Sir Robert Sibbald as entire, about a hundred and twenty-seven years ago ; it was a regu- lar fortalice, situated in a bog with ditch and drawbridge — and, accordiug to the son of a feuar who lived hard by, was surround- ed with ornamental walks and lofty trees, some of which trees at present remain. The bog has been drained, and the site of the castle been converted into corn-land. The third is the Castle of Pittairthy, built on a declivity towards the south part of the parish, and commanding a wide prospect of the German sea. Though it has long been unroofed and unrepaired, it may defy the assault of the elements for centuries to come. This structure appears to have been erected at two separate periods. The west or first built is a large square tower, the date of erection uncertain. Near the west top, was a keep or donjon, very common in those military abodes, with a strong iron grating across an opening in the wall, to serve for a window. The whole under part is vaulted, which probably served for cellars, kitchen, and bed-rooms. The upper part of the castle is perforated with holes, by which to an- noy the besiegers. The east or modern part, according to the inscription on it, was built in 1653, by Sir William Bruce of Kin- ross. It contained only a baronial hall, and two sleeping apart- ments, stone-paved. About one furlong and a third north of the church, on Dunino Law, from which it has been shown the parish probably derives its name, the ruins of a nunnery were dug up and removed in .the 366 FIFESHIRE. year 1815. The height of the walls is unknown, but the struc- ture consisted of unhewn stones, cemented with mortar, instead of lime. The internal space was formed into two divisions, and the door fronted the east. There are three stones nearly close to the west wall of the mi- nister's garden, which seem to have been part of a Druidical circle. This is rendered probable by several circumstances. There, the ris- ing sun may be seen ; and a few yards westward, is part of a sand* stone rock artificially tubulated, in which, tradition relates that the priests of the Druid faith collected dew on the first day of May or Bel-tien^ and sprinkling the people, pronounced a blessing on them from the God of Fire, that is the sun in the firmament, which they ignorantly worshipped. A short mile westward is a farm mention- ed in the register of the priory of St Andrews in the thirteenth cen- tury, still caMe&Pittan-druidhy the grave of the Druids, vulgarly Pittendrieeh. From the chartulary of Aberbrothock, it appears that, in 1242, Stravithy estate, in this parish, paid stipend to the Culdees at Iona, and afterwards to some disciples of the Romish faith, which appears to have continued at Dunino, notwithstanding the zeal of presbyteries, till near the Union. For within the last ten years, some copper coins of Charles I. and II., and William and Mary, were found in a grave in the churchyard, which money, it is sup- posed, bad been destined to pay the passage of the party interred, out of purgatory. Twenty years ago, two coins, one gold, and the other silver, struck in the reign of Philip IL of Spain, were dug up, the one in the parish, the other in the neighbourhood. Both of these coins had probably been brought by the vessels of the Armada that were stranded on the coast of Fife. They were sent to an eminent an- tiquary in Dundee; In spring 1836, in afield belonging to Balcaithly, in this parish, there was torn up by the plough an urn containing probably the reliques of some Roman chief. III. — Population. In 1793, the population, judging from the records of baptisms, was 383, same as in 1831. 1800, - - m .826 1805, .--. 320 1811, 140 males and 167 females, - - total, 307 1821, 151 do. 192 do. - - 342 1831, 183 do. 200 do. - - - 383 DUNINO. 367 The annual average of births, &a for 1834 and six years pre- ceding, was as follows :— Births, n» Marriages, 8f Deaths, - 3» There are 71 persons occupied in agriculture, and but 15 in retail trade and handicraft. There are 99 males above twenty ; 12 beyond seventy; and 1 nearly ninety. Within the last twenty years, 2 died above ninety. There are 78 families living in 74 houses, at very nearly 5 in a family. Two new houses are in the progress of building, and there is no uninhabited house. There are no blind or deaf in the parish ; and three, a man, woman, and child, in separate families, are insane. IV. — Industry. The parish of Dunino may be described as wholly agricultural. A corn-mill stands on the estate of Stravithy ; and it may be noti- ced, that the roof of the mill is supported by oak rafters that once covered Cardinal Beaton's proud castle at St Andrews. This corn-mill is of powerful operation, and skilfully manufactures into meal, at lOd. Sterling, a boll of oats of the old Scottish measure. Within seventy years, there were five corn-milk in the parish, one on every estate save Kingsmuir, to which all the farmers were bound for multure. These astrictions are now unknown. The extent of the different properties in the parish in Scotch acres, and the rent in the year 1836, may be found in the follow- ing tables : Acre*. • Plantations. Dunino and Balcaithly, - 1310 130 StraWthy, . - 700 130 Pittairthy, - 187 * None South Kinaldy, - - 175 10 Kingsmuir, ... 844 None Primrose, - - 36 Do. Glebe, - - - 23 Do. Total acres, 3275 270 Rent of the parish in 1836, in Sterling money : Dunino and Balcaithly - - - L. 1368 Stravithy, - - - - - 927 Pittairthy, 250 South Kinaldy, - - -•- -23700 Kingsmuir, - - - - - 300 Primrose, - - - - 17 Glebe, - - - - - - 28 L.3122 Real rent in 1793, according to Sir J. Sinclair's statistics, 1157 Increase in forty-three years, L.1965 As Kingsmuir lay waste in the seventh year of Charles II. when 368 FIFESHIRE. Cromwell's prior valuation was fixed as the standard of estimation, — deduct from L. 3122, the present rent of the parish, — the pre- sent rent of Kingsmuir, and the balance is L. 2822 ; so that the rent of Dunino parish has increased above fourteen times in 169 years, — the valued rent in Scotch money being L. 2334, 6s. 8d., orL. 194, 10s. 6j 8 2 d. Sterling. The plantations have increased since the former Account was drawn up, 210 acres; and, deducting 120 acres for ground still waste that may be cultivated, 2444 acres have been added to the cultivated soil. The value of live-stock on the farms, including horses, black-cat- tle, sheep, swine, and poultry in 1836, amounted to L. 5670 ; im- plements of husbandry, including eleven thrashing machines, L. 1800; total, L. 7470. Value of stock forty-three years ago, L. 2476 ; increase, L. 4994. Kind and value of the crop for the year 1836, as under : Wheat, - - - L.2I05 Barley, Oats, - Pease and beans, Potatoes, - Turnips, . Grass, ... Flax, 64 stones at Annual produce of crop in 1793, Increase in forty -three years, L.8676 It is stated in the former Statistical Account, that the soil is " adapted chiefly for oats and barley ;" but there is now raised more value of wheat than barley, and the quality is excellent. The fiars for wheat were first struck in 1649, as appears by the Sheriff- Court books of Fife ; and that year, the boll of wheat was so high- priced as L. 1, 0s. lfd. Sterling. The Chevalier barley, as well as the common kind, is in general use ; but though estimable for its great weight, it is costly, by requiring a rich soil, and hazardous in late seasons, requiring six weeks longer to mature, after sowing than ordinary barley. In 1643, by the Fife fiars, a boll of " bear" was 10s. Sterling. Several sorts of oats, as the Drummond and Tartar kind, are tried. The potato oats, from their speedy arrival at maturity, bid fair to be preferable. The boll of " aits and meall," by the Fife fiars in 1643, was 8s. 4d. Sterling. Flax is nearly discontinued in the parish, and will be so generally, when calcareous manures are introduced. Cotton, too, in many respects, supplies the use of flax at a much cheaper rate ; 18-23 2728 505 1229 765 2076 . 46 L. 11272 2596 DUNINO. 369 and where linen is wanted, fabrics of that kind from Ireland can be purchased at a far lower price by the farmer, than by home ma- nufacture. Every advantage which can be derived from good agri- cultural seeds is studied. The eleven thrashing-mills and other implements of husbandry are generally of the best construction. The breed of black-cattle, neat-limbed, horned, and of a dark colour, common at Dunino and over the county, and called the Fife breed, is celebrated. This race is known to have originated from the bounty of James VI. of Scotland. That monarch, on his accession to the English throne, had drawn largely on his for- mer neighbours at Falkland, to support his royal dignity ; and to remunerate them, he selected and sent down a race of excellent black-cattle, from the early cultivated region of south Britain, which have been improved for two centuries, in the luxuriant pas- tures of Fifeshire. At Dunino, cattle of the yellow or spotted Ayr- shire breed, may also be found ; but the Fife breed is most ap- proved for fast feeding in grass parks, during summer, and the cows of that race are distinguished as milkers. In the parish, about 190 sheep of the .Linton and Biggar or Northumberland breed, are fatted for the owners' tables, or sold to the butchers in the neighbourhood. Except in Kingsmuir, there are only two farms under L. 50 of rent, the rents of the other farms running from L. 100 to nearly Lb 600. On Kingsmuir, the rents of farms proceed in a regular gra- dation from L. 5 to L. 83. A domain like Kingsmuir, beginning to emerge into agricultural importance, may be well cultivated as at present by small tenants. A man and his family with twelve acres will raise far more corn and cattle in proportion, than he who rents ninety-six acres, because he must employ strangers to assist him. A tacksman on a large scale on the east part of Kingsmuir has recent- ly exhibited such proofs of enterprise, as to show, that if he and a few other similar tacksmen had the whole 844 acres in their hands, they would improve them, more quickly at least, than small te- nants. Seventy years have not elapsed since the best farmers here had but a thin partition between their bedrooms and bestial. Now, the principal tenantry either inhabit houses of two stories, or a handsome house of one storey ; in both cases, with a suitable es- tablishment of offices. Straw roofs for cottages are going into disuse, and slate or tile roofs are generally adopted. The great promoter of agricultural improvement in the parish fife. a a 370 FIFKSH1RE. of Dunino, was the public-spirited Sir William Areskine of Torry, predecessor and relative of Captain Areskine Wemyss, at present Member of Parliament for the county of Fife. About 1767, Sir William, as proprietor of the estate of Dunino, made the same fe- licitous attack on the asperities of the soil, as he had previously done on the rebels in America. In Sir Robert Sibbald's descrip- tion of Fife, which was published about 1710, he says, when you come to the east moors of Fifeshire, by which he meant Kingsmuir, the first place which attracts attention is the castle of Stravithy ; Dunino estate, Sir Robert Sibbald held unworthy of notice. At this period, the conterminous heritors had a right " to dig feal and divot" on Kingsmuir, and to " pasture their cattle ;" which usages were bought up, by granting them sections of land in recompense. The rest of the parish, like Kingsmuir, lay open and uninclosed, and the whole bestial of the forty- four farms, in addition to those of Kingsmuir, were in autumn sent forth, as at present in Iceland, for promiscuous pasture, — though the act of James VII. had ex- isted for ninety years, prohibiting such destructive practice. It was in this state of agricultural barbarity, that Sir William Ares- kine commenced his operations. He enclosed his whole estate with substantial stone fences five feet high; and ditches along side of them were superadded. He introduced wheat, potatoes, and turnips ; and these two latter crops were so scarce in the east of Fife, that at night they were plundered, like apples from an orchard. The horses were shod not only as formerly on the fore feet, but also on the hinder feet Metal plates were appended to the timber ploughs, as mould boards; the cart wheels of solid wood were abandoned ; recourse was had to the saddler, instead of the flax-dresser, for harness ; large stones which impeded agricultural operations were removed from the fields ; the crooked ridges were made straight ; and plantations were formed to shelter the higher grounds. For some years the tacksmen of Dunino were looked up to, as presenting to the public, experimental farms. Such an example was not lost The properties of Kinaldy, Pittairthy, Balcaithly, and the most of Stravithy, have been in- closed with stone fences, and in general substantially drained. The empire of bog-plants is on the wane, and the parish, de- scribed in the former Account as " wet and spongy," will soon, in every part, deserve the opposite character. The rents, as has been shown, are moderate ; the tenants are in good terms with DUNINO. 371 their landlords } and one tenant occupies the farm entered upon by his grandfather seventy years ago. The loss by corn-merchants is a theme on which some farmers dwell. Here, there is a persua- sion, that, without corn agents, farming would be at a stop. Ninety-one years ago, at the time of the last Rebellion, the scanty crops raised at Dunino could scarcely find market There was no wheat, and the oats were kept for support of the family ; the barley or rather bear was given, the one-half for rent, and the other half of the rent was paid by cattle. One-fourth of the bear was given in kind to the brewer in the parish, for beer to the family, and the other fourth was sold for cash either to him, or to some of the thirty- three brewers in St Andrews, to buy gin or brandy, which then and long after, were delivered in large quantities from con- traband ships on the coast. What clothes the family of the farmer required were manufactured by themselves. A great part of business was transacted bv barter. Plantations. — The plantations in the parish, wherever formed, are prosperous. Those beside the two streamlets consist of a va- riety of hard-wood trees. The other plantations are of larch or Scotch fir. Some parts of the plantations have of late been cut down ; but it is hoped they will soon be replaced by a new stock. Valued Rent. — The valued rent of Stravithy estate is somewhat larger than that of Dunino apart from Balcaithly, to which it is now united; so that in the 7th of Charles II., the property must have been superior. It fell in the rear by Sir William Areskine's improvements ; but the active skill of the present proprietor has well nigh raised it to its former pre-eminence, — though the soil be often less grateful than that of Dunino estate, which is sandy or alluvial, — whereas the other is in many places rather a stiff clay. The proprietor of Dunino deserves praise for the handsome ac- commodation he has afforded, and is still affording, to his tenantry, and the proprietor of Stravithy for his flourishing plantations, the drainage of his fields, and the handsome cottages he has erected, for the servants of his principal tacksman. The proprietor of Kinaldy, on the northern part of his estate, separatedjfrom this pa- rish only by a rivulet, has erected a splendid establishment of farm buildings. % V. — Parochial Economy. Dunino possesses good public roads, aud near markets. There 372 FIFESHIRE. is a turnpike road crossing the parish from St Andrews to An* struther, which are both sea-ports — and have both a weekly market for grain — the distance from four to five miles. Yearly, there are 15 horse and black-cattle fairs, within seven miles. We are sur- rounded by post-offices ; one is within three, another four, and an- other five miles. Other three post-offices are within seven miles. There is a curricle which plies thrice a week across the parish, from Anstruther to St Andrews. From St Andrews to Cupar, the county town, a distance of eleven miles, two coaches run weekly ; in a like space, they go twice to Dundee, the same distance as Cu- par. The fuel used in the parish is coal, which may be found sea- borne at either of the adjacent towns above-mentioned, or at the coal mines in the interior of the country, not more distant than those towns. Inns. — There are two inns in the parish, which are' sources of no intemperance. Ecclesiastical State. — The stipend of Dunino was augmented in 1709. About forty-two years ago, Dr Brown, then incumbent, received a considerable addition. The former and present mini- ster received also an augmentation, and the living, beside the sti- pend victual payable by the fiars, includes 63 old Scotch bolls, half oatmeal and half barley, at L. 85, Ids. Id. of surrendered teind, which, with a manse and offices erected about fifteen years ago, and 23 acres of glebe, may amount to L. 260 a year. The present incumbent, Mr Roger, is the eighth minister of the pa- rish since 1697, when Mr Knox, a relative of the great Re- former, John Knox, was inducted into office. The church of Dunino was built in 1826, and is a neat Gothic edifice, with an altaivwin- dow in the west gable. It contains thirty-two pews, designed for six sitters in each, but might hold seven, in all 224. The area in the church has been divided by the sheriff as under : — The patron, the United College of St Andrews, had the first choice, the minister next, and the heritors according to their valued rent. The parochial schoolmaster has a pew, and all the other pews are proportionally annexed to the estates, and divided among the far- mers and their dependents, excepting eight pews in front of the pulpit and adjoining, which are let by the kirk-session, and these form the sacred tables at the communion season. The number of communicants generally is from 130 to 160; but upwards of 200 have been known to communicate. The church is centri- DUNINO. 373 cally situated ; and there are but two or three families of Se- ceders. Poor's Funds. — The poor's revenue at Dunino requires no long recital. There is but a single pauper on the kirk-session fund, at 2s. a-month; but the heritors have, since autumn 1834, contribut- ed, according to their valued rent, L. 6, 4s. 5d. to support other four paupers, at 2s. or 3s. a-month each, as circumstances re- quire, with an additional boon out of this sum to buy coals. The kirk-session fund consists of the following items : a small sum for church seat-rent; a tax on the use of the mortcloth, and the pro- clamation of marriage banns; penalty on illegitimate births in certain cases (and two illegitimate births occur perhaps twice in three years;) the proceeds from collections at the church door, and from money deposited at interest, — forming a small total annually of about L. 9, 8s. 7d. From this little capital fall to be paid, be- sides the pauper, the session-clerk, precentor, kirk-officer, the sy- nod and presbytery clerk, and presbytery officer. Thus the pro- vision for the poor, and for the whole kirk-sessional business of the parish, does jiot exceed L. 15, 13s. a-year. Education.* — There has never been but one parochial school in * According to the parish register in the year 1648, a declaration was issued by the Presbytery of St Andrews, to be published in every parish within their bounds, and which was confirmed by the General Assembly, the tenor whereof follows : " That the woful ignorance, rudeness, stubbornness, incapacity seen among the common peo- ple, proceed from want of schools in landward, and not putting bairns to school where they are — therefore it is ordained that all possible means be used, that there be a school in every congregation, and that where there is one already, every one that hath children put them to school, if past seven years old — if the parents be poor, that the kirk-session take order for paying the schoolmaster either out of the poor's box, or by a quarterly collection— but if the parents be able, then let them be obliged both to send their bairns when the session gives order, and not to remove them till the Session be acquainted." In the spirit of this wise declaration, it is said in the regis- ter, that " Tuesday, 6th June 1643, the minister, with the heritors of the parish and elders of the session, did convene at the kirk : there was lent out of the box for ad- vancement to Mr James Richardsone, reader, for bypast service, 108 merks," (that is, L. 6, Sterling : ) •« As also it was ordained that Mr James should beginne his school on Moonday next, and that he should have a hundredth pound a year,'* (that is, L. 8, 6s. 8d. Sterling,) " and that the same should be payed to him at two terms in the yeir, viz. Whitsunday and Martinmasse." Whatever the school fees were, this was a handsome salary ; for, being twenty-four years before the seventh year of Charles II., when the valued rent taken by Cromwell was confirmed as the standard of va- luation, the L. 100 Scotch in the parish might be equal to L. 1400 Scotch now, or L. 1 16, 13s. 4d. After the act passed in the reign of William III. 1696, k< settling a school in every parish not already provided, by advice of the heritors and minister," leaving out the kirk-session, — Mr Dick was schoolmaster of Dunino for twenty years, from 1696 to 1718, whose salary was the maximum then allowed by law, or L. 1 1 2s. 2fd. Supposing his salary twelve times the present nominal amount, it would reach to L. 133, 6s., that is L. 16, 12s. 8d. more than Mr Richardsone's. In' addi- tion to this, provisions during Mr Dick's time were generally cheap, and his school fees enormous. Though in 1 6ij8, according to the Fife fiars register, the oatmeal a 37* FIFESHIRE. the parish, ll is centrically situated, and but a few yards from its ori- ginal ^ifo. The scale of fees, formed in 1805, has been continued to the present schoolmaster, who succeeded his brother, the author of " Anster Fair." His salary is the maximum; and this, with L.3, as session-clerk, dues on proclamation of banns of marriage, grant- ing certificates of character to those removing from the parish, and keeping the register of births — added to the school fees, and a neat new dwelling house and garden, may amount to L. 60 a year, There is nobody in the parish above seven years old, untaught to read ; and there are but few grown up persons who cannot also write. The desire of knowledge is ardent. There are several co- pies of the Bible in every house. Some new publications visit the parish ; and at present there are read in it weekly nine different newspapers. « November 1837. boll was 15s. Sterling, during the rest of his incumbency, the price of it ran from 3s. 4d. to Us. 8d. Sterling a boll; butcher meat sold at l£d. per pound; and a tailor wrought at 2d. a day. The parish register shows that the lowest quarter fee then was Is. 3d., which would have required the pay of more than seven and a half days of an ordinary tradesman, or 9s. 4£d at present, which in most cases would be equal to a prohibition of attending school. In 1805, two years after the new act in favour of parochial schoolmasters was framed, a schoolmaster of Dunino, a licentiate of the Scottish church, qualified not only to teach the ordinary branches of education, but French, Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, had the school fees raised to him, which had declined by the gradual influx of money into the kingdom. The quarter fee for English reading was made 2s. ; for writing, 3s. ; for arithmetic, 3s. 6d. ; and for La- tin, 4s. PARISH OF KENNOWAY. PRESBYTERY OF KIRKCALDY, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV. DAVID BELL, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, §c. — The village of Kennoway, which in all probability gave its name originally to the parish so called, is built along the top of a ridge which forms the head of a very sweet little glen, or den, as it is commonly called. Of this situation, the name Kenno- *way, as derived from the Gaelic language, is said to be exactly de- scriptive : Kean-nan-uiagh, signifying " the head of the den." ■ The parish of Kennoway is, in figure, nearly an oblong ; ex- tending about 3 miles from east to west ; and upwards of 2 from south to north. It is bounded on the south and west, by the parish of Markinch ; on the north, by that of Kettle ; and on the east, by that of Scoonie. Topographical Appearances. — In its general aspect, the parish of Kennoway is a sloping bank, ascending from south to north : having the surface abundantly and beautifully diversified, however, by irregular and gently rising heights, and corresponding declivi- ties. " The prospect from almost every part," as is accurately re- marked in the former Statistical Account of the parish, " is exten- sive and beautiful ; commanding a distinct view of the Island of May, of the Bass Rock, of Inchkeith, of the shipping on the Forth, of the coast south of the Forth, from Dunbar to the west of Edin- burgh, including the Lammermoor hills," and part of the Pentlands. " From the north part of the parish, which reaches the top of the bank, there is one of the most extensive views imaginable, taking in not only the fore-mentioned prospect to the south, but compre- hending almost all Fife, and a great part of the counties of Angus, Perth, and Stirling, and of the Grampian mountains." In the cot- house of Lalathan, situated on nearly the most elevated point of the ridge, is said to be the highest hearth-stone in the county. Meteorology. — The mean temperature of the atmosphere, taken at ten o'clock, a. m. for six successive years, is as under : — 376 FIFESHTRE. 1831, mean temperature 53°.6 1834, mem temperature, 56° 3 1832, 02.9 1835, 64*5 1833, 53.1 1836, 53.3 Climate. — The climate is, on the whole, far from being unpro- pitious. The atmosphere is, for the most part, mild and dry ; the harvests are earlier than the general average of the county ; and the healthiness of the situation has been long noted and abundant- ly experienced. Hydrography. — A few small rivulets or burns, some of which intersect the parish in different directions, while others form consi- derable portions of its boundaries, are the only water scenery of which it can boast. None of them are of any note : — but that which entering the parish on the north, near Balnkirk, and following a k circuitous course, till it meets another little stream on the south- east boundary, at the hamlet of Kennoway-burns, — whence thus aug- mented, it proceeds about a mile to the southward, to fall into the Leven, — is worthy of special mention. It is so, from this circum- stance, that, passing close to the village of Kennoway, its banks there are high, winding, and beautifully diversified ; in some places steep and rocky, jutting out into rugged points, which bring the opposite sides into near contact ; in other places, more sloping, and of course leaving a wider space between ; and everywhere, finely covered with wood. The channel of the stream at this place, with the enclosure formed by its elevated banks, receives the name of the den, which, though not on a large scale, is certainly a piece of scenery possessing many features of great beauty. Mineralogy.— The south part of the parish is incumbent upon freestone rock of a soft quality, which dips towards the south-east. Upon the high ground, on the north part of the parish, the soil is incumbent on a ridge of whinstone, which lies in the direction nearly east and west* The soil is of various qualities, and mostly all arable. On the south and east, it is principally light fertile land ; in the centre, it is loam and clay, upon a retentive subsoil ; and on the north, upon the rising ground, there is a small proportion of dry loam, incum- bent upon the whinstone rock. This whinstone, at various points, has been quarried and used for building ; but more commonly for road-metal. Freestone to a trifling extent is wrought in the den, also for the purposes of building ; but it is coarse and soft, and apt to moulder down, when exposed to the weather. There are some beds of red keel found in the den ; and they 4 KENNOWAY. 377 have been occasionally worked ; but, being only two inches thick, and not affording an adequate remuneration, nothing has been done in them for a number of years past . On the western boundary of the parish, there is a patch of peat- moss ; and towards the eastern boundary, beds of coal at various depths are found, some of which have been wrought, with scarcely any intermission, for nearly fifty years past. The line of dip of the strata lies in the form of a crescent Towards the east of the coal-field, it dips to the south-east, and towards the west, it ap- proaches to south-west. The dip of the strata is about one foot in twelve. Slips or fissures, generally running in a straight direc- tion from east to west, are found frequently to interrupt the seams of coal, throwing them up or down to a distance, varying from a few inches to eight feet The following journal shows the metals with their depths re- spectively, which have been gone through to reach the seams of coal at present wrought, lying upwards of fifty-four fathoms from the surface. Fath. Feet. In. Surface and clay, \ 5 Bands, 1 4 Freestone, 3 Bands. 3 Blaes with coal, 1 5 Dark atone. 1 Coal I. 6 Band*, 2 6 Coal II. 2 2 Bands, 2 4 Freestone, 3 r Coal III. 6 1 Black stone, 8 t Coal IV. 1 4 Bands. 1 6 Coal V. 5 White bands, 1 White freestone, 3 9 Blaes, 1 Dark freestone, 2 8 White freestone, 1 1 1 Bands, 4 1 Blaes with bands, 4 Dark blaes, 2 6 Bands, 1 1 4 Freestone, 1 4 Bands, 2 1 Blaes, 1 White freestone, 8 Fath. Feet. In. Coal VI. 1 4 Blaes, 1 2 Bands, 2 2 • Grey freestone, 2 Hard bands, 2 11 Dark blaes, 1 5 Bands, 6 Hard gray freestone, 3 10 White freestone, 9- 2 8 Black bands, 4 White bands, 3 5 Blue blaes, 3 5 Blaes and bands, 2 2 4 Blaes, 1 1 2 Bands, 5 3 Hard white bands, 3 Dark bands, 2 1 Soft blaes, 2 6 Dark bands, 1 2 White bands, 1 1 5 Gray bands. 1 9 Soft blaes with coal, 1 10 Freestone, 2 3 10 Bands, 2 5 Hard blaes, 1 6 C Coal VII. 4 2 1 Grey stone, ( Coal VIII. 9 1 IL — Civil History. Literary Production. — A rare and very curious work, u Com- prehending a Chronicle of the most remarkable events in Scot- land, particularly in Fife, from 1649 to 1671 , and containing va- 378 FIFESIIIRE. luable genealogical notices of almost every family of note in this part of the country/' has been generally ascribed to a Mr John Lamont, proprietor of Easter Newton in this parish. The work was first published in 1810, by the late Mr Constable, under the title of " The Chronicle of Fife." Another edition was printed at Edinburgh in 1830, under the title of " The Diary of Mr John Lamont of Newton." In the prefatory notice to this second edi- tion, doubts are expressed as to whether the author of the Diary " possessed the small property of Newton, in the parish of Ken- noway," as Mr Constable had stated, and as has generally been supposed : and we are sorry to say, as detracting from the little li- terary fame, to which the parish, through this channel, might be conceived to be entitled, that, on instituting an idquiry into the matter, by a careful perusal of the kirk-session records, and by re- ference to the inventory of the titles of Easter Newton, now the property of Miss Balfour of Kingsdale, the doubts that have been entertained are too well founded. * Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are, Mrs D. Bethune, of Balfour, who is proprietor of the lands of Kennoway and Trea- ton ; Miss Lundin, proprietor of Auchtermairnie and Gallowhill ; General Balfour of Balbirnie, proprietor of Lalathan and Dal- guinch ; Miss Balfour, proprietor of Kingsdale ; C. M. Christie, Esq. of Durie, proprietor of Drummaird ; Miss Wallace, proprie- tor of Newton Hall ; J. B. Fernie, Esq. proprietor of Kilmux ; Mrs Paston of Barnslee, proprietor of the lands of Brunton ; Mr * Through the kindness of Messrs Stevenson and Yule, W. S. Edinburgh, a friend to whom we applied was permitted to inspect the inventory of the titles of East- er Newton ; and we learn from him, that the first writ- in this inventory is a charter of Adjudication and Novodamus, by James Law of Brunton (the superior of Easter Newton ) of those lands, to John Lamont, skipper in Largo, who took infeftment thereon, and recorded the same in the general Record, 1st October and 26th Novem- ber 1695. This was evidently the first proprietor of Easter Newton of the name of Lamont, as the former owner of the lands was Euphemia Durie, widow of the Rev. Robert Mercer, minister of Kennoway. The next proprietor after the said John Lamont, in the course of the progress, is James Lamont, his eldest son. Now that John Lamont, who thus first became proprietor of Easter Newton in 1695, and was succeeded in the property by his son, James Lamont, could not be the author of a Diary which had commenced, if not earlier, at least in 1649, is evident from the particulars which follow. In the register of marriages and births of this parish, the marriage of John Lamont of Newton to Mary Lundin is recorded in 1697 ; and again the marriage of John Lamont of Newton Easter to Margaret Wat- son, is recorded in 1698; subsequently, the baptisms of eight children, the fruit of this second marriage, are recorded, the youngest named Robert being baptised on the 10th January 1715 ; and so late as in 1733, a silver communiou cup, as the in- scription on it bears, was presented to the parish of Scoonie, by Mr John Lamont of Newton. A comparison of the dates must satisfy every one that John Lamont, author of the Diary, conld not be the person of the same name who was proprietor of Easter New- ton in this parish. KENNOWAY. 379 Ballingall, proprietor of Balnkirk ; Patrick Wright, Esq. proprie- tor of Halfields ; George Forbes, Esq. proprietor of Balgrie ; John Lawson, Esq. of Carriston, &c. Parochial Register. — The date of the earliest entry in the pa- rochial register, is supposed to be in 1 634. The figures after anno at the top of the page have been removed through decay of the paper ; but an entry, about half way down the same page, bearing the date 1635, is perfectly distinct. After this, on a subsequent page, comes July 1638 ; and though the bbok in which these dates are found, is not in a state of very good preservation, yet the details of the transactions of the kirk-session, given with great minuteness, and often showing an extreme degree of vigilance and rigour in the exercise of authority, may be gathered from the last-mentioned date, with few, if any exceptions, continuously down to December 1675. From this time, however, to 1690, a period of about fif- teen years, there is an entire blank ; and the same thing'occurs be- tween 1755 and 1761. From this last date, up to the^ present time, the records are entire. What could have occasioned the blanks above referred to, it is impossible to say determinately : but the probability is, that the minutes had been originally kept, and that the books which con- tained them have been lost : for the volumes preserved are filled with minutes of transactions in regular succession, and the blanks occur in both cases between the conclusion of one volume and the commencement of another. Mansion-Houses. — The only mansion houses in the parish ^are those of Auchtermairnie, Kingsdale, and Newton Hall ; of which the two last-mentioned are modern buildings ; and the materials employed in their construction were brought from neighbouring parishes. * III. — Population. In the former Statistical Account of the parish, written in 1793, it is remarked, that the number of the people and houses seems to have been nearly the same for centuries ; and in regardjto the vil- lage of Kennoway, containing about one-half of the whole inhabi- tants, it is observed, that " very few houses were known to have been built on a new foundation." The population of the parish at that time, seems to have amounted to nearly 1300. Within the last forty years, however, the village and parish, re- taining nearly the same relative proportion in point of numbers, have made a very considerable increase of their population. In the 380 FIFESHIRK. village many new feus oh ninety-nine years leases have been obtain- ed and built on, principally along a new section of the line of road leading this way from Kirkcaldy to Cupar : — and in other parts of the parish, the number of dwelling-houses has been gradually en- larged, chiefly in the same way. The increase of population adverted to has been owing prin- cipally, it is presumed, to the gradually improving condition of this part of the country in general ; and may, perhaps, be in some measure assigned to the establishment and growing prosperity of several manufactories in the near neighbourhood. A number of individuals find constant work at Cameron Distillery, and the Haugh Spinning-mill, which are both in Markinch parish ; and the exten- sive manufacture of linens carried on, by wealthy individuals and companies, in most of the surrounding district, supplies the weavers, of whom there are a great many here, with regular employment. The amount of population at each census, taken at different pe- riods under the direction of Parliament, is as follows : In the year 1801, • 1466 1611, • 1517 1821, • 1649 1831, • 1721 • It is worthy of notice that, at the time of this last census, the number of males exceeded that of females by 9 ; there being of the former 865, and of the latter 856. Of the population residing in villages, there were at the same time in that of Kennoway, 862 ; in that of Star, 232 ; and in that of Baneton, 125 ; making in all 1219 ; and in the country there were 502. The average of baptisms for these last five years may be stated at 45 deaths, . . . . . .29 marriages, . .... . 14 The number of families in the parish at last census was, . 409 The average number of individuals in each family was, . . 4J Number of families chiefly employed in agriculture, . 110 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 158 All others, ........ 141 Number of professional or other educated men is, 7 The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, is 10, of whom only three are at present resident in the parish. • This number of 1721, ought to have been increased, we presume to think, by 234, the amount of population on the lands of Dalguinch, &c., in the west end of the parish, which are an annexation quoad $acra to Markinch. The census of popu- lation by order of Government is unquestionably a purely civil matter ; and, there- fore, the whole of the inhabitants of the pariah quoad civUia, ought to have been stated : —the more especially as the population on the lands of Duniface, in Maikinch pa- riah, which are an annexation quoad ttcrm to Kennoway, was also included in the Markinch lists. KENNOWAY. 381 Of fatuous individuals there are 4 ; of blind, 2 ; and of deaf and dumb, 7. Of the last mentioned class, 5 belong to the same fa- mily, viz. two sons and three daughters. The family, in all, con- sists of three son3 and four daughters, all of whom are of adult age. Illegitimate births in the course of the last three years, 13. Character of the People. — The people, in their general habits, are industrious, cleanly, and economical ; and their circumstan- ces are, for the most part, comfortable. In behaviour, the great bulk of them are worthy of commendation, as being sober, peace- able, decorous, and upright. Some few exceptions have, no doubt, always existed ; and these have of late years, it is to be fear- ed, been very considerably increased. Drunken brawls, and acts of wanton mischief, committed during the night by persons under the excitement of spirituous liquors, have, for a few years past, been frequent and outrageous beyond all former precedent in the history of the place ; and at this moment, a general movement is making by the respectable part of the community, to put an end, if pos- sible, to such things, by having the perpetrators of them uniform- ly prosecuted and punished ; — to take steps towards which, indivi- duals who have been aggrieved have hitherto felt a great reluct- ance. The grand remedy, if it could be applied, would be to lay a restriction on the improper use of ardent spirits. Drunkenness is certainly the prevailing vice amongst us ; and is the originator, or at least inciting cause, to almost every mischief. Imprisonment for violent assault under its influence has of late been in two in- stances inflicted. " A considerable proportion of the inhabitants of this parish, 19 says a discerningand impartial observer, who has lived long amongst them, the Rev. Dr Fraser, " appear to me to discover their own share of Scottish acuteness and intelligence. I have often seen evidence also of their readiness to assist each other ; particularly by personal service, in times of affliction." IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres in the parish, standard im- perial measure, may be stated at 3750. Of these, 3470 are under the plough ; 30 have never been cultivated, remaining constantly waste or in pasture ; and 250 are under wood. Larch and Scotch firs are the kinds of trees that have generally been planted ; but enough of hard-wood of various kinds has been here and there in- terspersed, to prove by its healthy and vigorous growth that the soil is congenial to its produce. 382 FIFESHIRK. Rent of Land. — The rent of land varies from 15s. to L. 3. The average may amount to L. 1, 10s. per imperial acre. The ave- rage rent of grazing an ox or cow is about L. 3. Till of late, there were few or no sheep in the parish ; but Mr Robert Balliri- gall, an intelligent and enterprising farmer, who is tenant both of Wester Treaton and of Newton of Kingsdale, has, within these two years, introduced them, and has at present a flock of between 13 and 14 scores. Wages. — The wages of the best day-labourers, until about six months ago, when they were considerably raised, had continued for eight or ten years past, both in winter and summer, at Is. 4d. a day. Masons 1 and wrights' wages, during the same period, va- ried from 12s. to 14s. a week, in summer, and from 10s. to lis. in winter. The wages of farm-servants have continued, for a long time, very stationary. Married men of this description receive from L. 9 to L. 10 in money, 6£ bolls of meal, a pint of milk a day, as it comes from the cow, 8 bolls of potatoes, a free house and gar- den, and coals driven. Young or unmarried men receive from L. 9 to L. 1 1 in money ; and get their meals in the farm-house. When these latter are in a bothie, they receive 6£ bolls of meal, and a pint of sweet milk a day. Women employed in farm-work receive from 7d. to 8d. per day of nine hours. The cattle reared in the parish are generally the native breed of the county. The chief characteristics of the Fife breed are their being mostly all black, with white horns, rather long in the legs, long and straight in the back, with broad hooks ; their hav- ing a fine silky skin, and prominent eyes. They are generally kindly feeders ; and are much esteemed by the butcher for the excellent quality of the beef, as well as for the great quantity of tallow to the size of the carcase. The cows are for the most part profitable milkers; producing a great quantity of butter from the milk. Some attempts have been made to improve the Fife breed by crossing the cow with a Teeswater bull. The offspring of this cross are nearly as valuable at three years old, as the pure Fife breed is at four. They are more easily fattened, and when kept till five years old, they are as heavy as the pure Teeswater breed at the same age. The crops generally cultivated are wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, and turnip, with a small proportion of beans. The rotations corn- 3 KENNOWAY 383 monly observed vary according to the nature of the soil. Upon the stronger soils, the following are practised: Summer fallow, wheat, beans, barley, hay, oats. Summer fallow or potatoes, wheat, hay, pasture, oats. Summer fallow, wheat, barley, hay, oats. Upon the lighter soils, the following are in use : viz. turnips or potatoes, barley or wheat, hay, pasture, oats. Turnips or potatoes, barley or wheat, pasture, pasture, oats. The high prices during the late war gave a stimulus to the im- provement of the soil ; and at this day, the exertions of the tenan- try have by no means slackened. Although suffering much, as they have done for a number of years past, from the very low state of the market, yet it appears as if their utmost efforts have been used to raise an increased quantity of produce, so as to indemnify themselves for the depression of price. By the improvements that . have been thus introduced, the fertility of the soil has been much in- creased. It can safely be averred, that now a fourth more pro- duce is raised from the soil than was obtained twenty years ago. This has been chiefly brought about by improved rotations of crop- ping, by draining and liming, and by the use of artificial manures, such as ground bones and rape dust. The drainage of the soil, hitherto, has been accomplished in most cases by deep drains cut across the field at the top of the spring ; but a new system has now been put into practice, which, if properly executed upon that portion of the parish which lies on a retentive sub-soil, will very much increase its value, and render it fit to carry all kinds of green crops. This new system, which is called the frequent-drain system, has been borrowed from Mr Smith of Deanston. It is executed by cutting small drains up every six or every twelve ell furrow, as occasion requires, from two and a- half to three feet deep, with small spades used for the purpose. At the top, the drains are of the width of a common spade ; and at the bottom, the small spade is used to cut them out four inches wide ; and a scoop finishes the process, by clearing out the loose earth at the bottom. The drains are, after this, filled to within eighteen inches of the surface, with stones broken to the size of road-metal ; and these stones are then covered with a turf. After the field has been gone over with these drains, it is ploughed by a trenching skeleton plough, sixteen inches deep, — which opens the hard sub soil below, and allows the water to percolate to the drains, so that the land is rendered perfectly dry. 384 FIFE6HIRE. Farms are generally let on lease for a period of nineteen years. The farm-buildings, with few exceptions, are by no means commodious* In too many instances, the ^occupier is fettered for want of suffici- ent accommodation for his bestial. Most of the land in the parish is inclosed, but many of the fences are by no means substantial* A very excellent and commodious steading was built in 1832, by Miss Balfour on her farm of Newton of Kingsdale. It is built of freestone, and covered with slate. The thrashing-machine is pro- pelled by a high-pressure steam-engine of six horse power. There is another thrashing-machine propelled by steam power in the pa- rish, on the farm of Wester Treaton, the property of Mrs D. Be- thune of Balfour. The greatest improvement which has recently been made in the parish, in agricultural matters, was executed by the late Captain Lundin on his estate of Auchtermairnie. By cutting ditches and planting hedges, — by draining and liming, — by removing embank- ments and levelling, — by planting and transplanting trees, — by building steadings and making roads, he nearly doubled the value of his property in the course of sixteen years. The appearance, also, of his estate in this time, was improved, perhaps, more than any other part of the county of a similar extent. This gentleman, whose many virtues, both private and public, will render his memory long dear, died in the prime of life, after an illness of only a few days, in the month of November 1832. Coal Mine. — It has been mentioned, that, in the eastern part of the parish, coal at different depths is found, and that it has been wrought with little intermission, for nearly fifty years past. The seams which have hitherto been chiefly dug are those marked No. III. and IV. in the journal before given. These seams were lat- terly wrought on what is called the long-wall method. After leav- ing sufficient pillars at the pit-bottom, every inch of coal, with the interjacent bed of black stone, was cut out progressively forward, and the whole superincumbent strata allowed to crush towards the stone or rubbish taken from the coal, which was used for gobbing the excavation. This coal was laid dry by a day-level of 350 fa- thoms in length. The seams above-specified having been nearly wrought out, the proprietor of the mine, J. B. Fernie, Esq. of Kilmux, a gentleman of great enterprise, well known, especially, as an eminent agricul- turist, and to whom the writer of this account is indebted for the information he supplies, both in regard to coal and agricultural KKXXOWAY. 385 matters, — has lately sunk a pit to a depth of more than 54 fa- thoms, where coal, marked VII. and VIII. in the journal, is found to the thickness of 5 feet 2 inches, with an interjacent bed of grey- stone 9 inches thick. To draw the water from this pit, an engine of forty-seven horse power has been erected. The coal, which has now been wrought for several months, is found to be of good quality, and it is believed that the field is extensive. There are at present between 40 and 50 colliers employed. . Raw Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce rais- ed in the parish may be stated as under : Produce of grain of all kinds, for food of man and beast, L. 9000 potatoes and turnips, . . J 000 hay cultivated, .... 700 land in pasture, .... 1200 mines and quarries, chiefly coal, . 2500 Total yearly value of raw produce, L. 14,400 Manufactures. — Besides two grind ing-mills for oats and barley in the parish, there is also a lint-mill for scutching flax, a plash- mill for washing yarn, and a spinning-mill for spinning tow. The three last-mentioned are on a very small scale, employing together not more than 18 or 20 hands. All the mills are driven by water. At the time when the former Statistical Account was written, it is remarked, that there was then, " a considerable quantity of coarse linen made in the parish, which was sold brown ; and some also of a better quality, which was bleached and sold at the sum- mer markets in the neighbourhood." This species of goods was commonly known by the name of Silesias^ and there were not a few individuals in this place who, in a small way, were engaged in the manufacture of them. The trade was for a long time brisk and profitable, but it entirely failed on the introduction of mill- spinning, through the consequent great reduction on the price of manufactured goods. There are still a great many weavers in the parish, not fewer than 300 male and female, connected with whom, at least 150 hands more, find employment as winders. But the business now is all transacted by agencies, on account of wealthy manufactur- ing companies or individuals in the surrounding district. There are none in this parish. The species x>{ goods now manufactured are dowlas sheetings of various widths, from three yards and under, Tweels, and a few diapers and Darlingtons. The quality varies from 700 to 1000 dowlas. The number of spindles woven in a year may be stated fife, b b 386 FIFESHIRE. at 68,000; and the average wage of each weaver at 7s. a week : — but a good and diligent worker will, without difficulty, make twice that sum. There are not fewer than 69 hands employed as shoemakers in the parish. The produce of their joint labour is of course much more than is requisite for meeting the wants of the neigh- bourhood ; and the surplus is, for the most part, carried to the ad- jacent market-towns, chiefly to Dundee, to supply the shoe- shops. A small proportion is also disposed of at the principal fairs in the neighbourhood. Reed Society. — The operative weavers of Kennoway, or at least the great majority of them, sensible of the advantages that might be derived from having the use of an extensive and proper assort- ment of reeds ; after having been, for a number of years, members of a society in the neighbourhood, instituted for promoting this object — about three years ago formed themselves into an associa- tion for the same purpose, denominated the " Kennoway Reed Society." The sole object of this society is to serve its members with reeds of any given order and breadth. It is open at all times for the admission of workmen properly qualified and recommend- ed, who are of good character, and living within two miles of the village of Kennoway. The entry-money is 3s. 6d. for one share, and a member may hold as many shares as he pleases. A certain rate is paid for the use of each reed, according to the description it is of, and according to the amount of spindles it is employed in the weaving of. This society is found to be of great benefit to its members. Of these, there are 122, holding in all 199 shares. The number of reeds which the society is possessed of, is 560 ; the average price of each of which, when new, might be 5s. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — There are no market-towns in the parish, but the access to Kirkcaldy and Cupar is easy, each being about nine miles distant ; the former in a south-westerly, and the latter in a north-easterly direction. The means of communication, in every part of the parish, are easy, the roads being in general good. Of these, there are about two miles of turnpike. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church, in the village of Kennoway, renders it convenient for by far the greater part of the population ; there being in thpt village, and within the compass of about half a mile around it, upwards of 1 1 00 inhabi- KENNOWAY. 387 tants. The distance of the church from the most remote extre- mities of the parish is between two and three thiles. The age of the church must, from its structure, and the height to which the surrounding burying-ground has accumulated above its foundation, be very great ; but there are no means of ascer- taining the exact period at which it was built. The lintel of a door, which is supposed to be of the same date with an addition that had been made to the original edifice, has 1619 inscribed on it. The present state of repair of the church, however, notwith- standing its great age, is exceedingly good. Perhaps it is to be regretted, considering its size, as compared with the population, that it is so good ; and that such a sum as nearly L. 200 was ex- pended in putting it into its present comfortable state, so lately as in the summer of 1832. The number of sittings in it is 463 ; while the number of families belonging to the Establishment in the parish is 238 ; and that of individuals of all ages 1027. The number of names on the communion roll at present is 507, from which, if 28 be deducted for the old and infirm, who cannot attend church, there is left still the number 479. This exceeds the num- ber of sittings in the church by 16. There are no free sittings, An excellent and commodious new manse, with offices and gar- den wall, was built in 1833, on a new and very eligible site, about five minutes walk from the church. The glebe consists of about 7 acres, and may be valued at L. 20 yearly. The stipend, which was augmented in 1832, amounts to 16 chalders, with L. 10 for communion elements. There are two Seceding congregations fn the parish, the places of worship of which are both also in the village of Kennoway. An unpopular settlement about the middle of last century gave occasion to the erection of the elder of these two congregations, which is connected with the United Associate Secession Synod. The present minister of this congregation, who was ordained to his charge upwards of forty-two years ago, is the learned and pious Rev. Donald Fraser, D. D., well known as the biographer of the Erskines, two of the fathers of the Secession, and as the author of other popular works. In his congregation, by particulars which he kindly furnished for this, account, the number of members is 428; besides whom, there are of the young with a few other hear- ers about 290. It is to be noticed, however, that about one-third of the whole reside within the bounds of other parishes. The 388 . FIFESIIIUE. amount of stipend is L. 120, with a comfortable dwelling-house and garden. The other Seceding congregation in the parish, which is in connexion with the Original Burgher Synod, has been in existence since 1 800. The number of its members is under 200, of whom about one-half reside within the parish. This congregation is at present without a minister; but the stipend of the one who lately left them for another situation was L. 75, with a dwelling-house and small garden. There are, besides those attached to these two congregations of Seceders, a very few individuals within the parish, belonging to the Relief and Independent denominations. The proportion which the whole number of Seceders and Dissenters taken together, bears to the number of those attached to the Established Church, is very nearly as 19 to 23. Among all denominations, the places of worship are in general well attended. Societies for Religious Purposes. — A society, denominated the Kennoway Female Bible and Missionary Association, was formed here in 1814; and another, styled the Kennoway Bible and Mis- sionary Association, was instituted in 1819. Their annual pro- ceeds average together rather more than Lr30. All denomina- tions concur in these institutions. Education. — Besides the Parochial School, which is attended on an average by 120 scholars, and is most efficiently taught, there are two unendowed schools in the parish, one of which is a female one : — and the children in the village of Star, in the West end of the parish, enjoy the benefit of a school which is taught just beyond the boundary. There are thus very few who can be said to be inconveniently situated with respect to the means of education. The parochial teacher has the maximum salary, with the legal accommodations. The amount of his school fees may be between L. 30 and L. 40. The list of fees for the parochial school is as under : English reading, 2s. 6d. per quarter ; reading and writing, 3s. per do. ; arithmetic, 4s. ; Latin and other branches, 5s. Library. — The only circulating library in the parish, is a juve- nile one connected with the Sabbath schools. It contains about 400 volumes, which are mostly very small. Savings Hank. — A savings bank was instituted for the parish and its vicinity in September 1834; the business of which has ever since been conducted principally by the writer of this Ac- KENNOWAV. 389 count. The amount of sums under L. 10, deposited up till this date, is L. 420 ; and the number of depositors at present is S3. Since the bank was opened, sixteen sums of L. 10 each, amount- ing in all to L. 1 60, have been removed at various times ; and the most, if not the whole of them, lodged in other banks. The Na- tional Bank of Scotland, at whose office in Kirkcaldy the money belonging to our savings' bank collectively is lodged, jnost gene- rously allows L. 4 per cent, interest on it ; and the same rate is allowed to the depositors in the savings' bank individually ; the interest in this latter case being calculated for pounds only, omit- ting odd shillings ; and for months, omitting odd days. Equitable Deposit Society. — A society was begun in May 18-35, entitled the Kennoway Equitable Weekly Deposit Society, each member of which pays Is. weekly. When a sufficient sum has in this way been collected, four shares of L. 30 each are drawn by ballot, and those receiving them give security that they will pay 4 per cent, interest thereon, in addition to continuing their weekly payments, until such time as all the members shall have drawn their shares respectively. The sum collected from the commence- ment of the association to the 26th December 1836, amounted to L. 882, 18s. 2d. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 22 ; and the sum allotted to each per calendar month varies from 2s. 6d. to 8s. 8d. The average an- nual amount of contributions, for the last five years, for the relief of the poor, has been L. 77 ; of which, L. 34 have been collected at the church door; L. 5 have come from mortcloth and marriage dues; and the remainder has been obtained by voluntary assess- ment of the heritors. For a considerable number of years past, a sum of between L. 30 and L. 40 has been raised in addition to the above, by ex- traordinary collections at the doors of the church and meeting- houses, and by donations from non-resident heritors, for the pur- pose of distributing about new-year time, amongst individuals and families of the poorer class, but who are not generally on the poor's roll, a quantity of coals and meal, and occasionally some Qther little necessary. By help of this fund also, for several years past, the spinning of flax has been obtained for some of the old people, who can find no other employment. Dressed flax is at present kindly supplied, as needed, by a mill-spinner in the neigh- bourhood, who allows 6d. per spindle for spinning it. To this 390 FIFESHIRB. the fund adds another 6d., so that the spinner receives Is. for her work, while the fund loses 6d. on each spindle. The sum earned in this way, by even a good spinner, is very small ; but whatever it may amount to, it is the fruit of labour, and it is prized as such. Fairs. — Two annual fairs are held in the village of Kennoway, the one in April, and the other in October. No business has for a long time been done at them. Inns and Alehouses. — There are no less than 13 houses in the parish licensed to sell spirituous liquors and ales. If so many can make profits by such a traffic, there is great reason to fear, that by far too much money is spent in them, and that an increase of intemperance must be the result The unnecessary multiplication of such places of resort is much to be deprecated ; for, besides affording facilities to those who are already addicted to drinking, it sets additional and powerful temptation to the worst of all vices, in the way of those who are sober and industrious. Fuel — Coal abounds in all the neighbourhood, and after what has been already said in regard to its being found of good quality, and wrought in the parish, it is scarcely necessary to add, that this is the fuel universally used. At Balgrie colliery, in the pa- rish, from which the great majority of the inhabitants are supplied, it is sold at present at 8s. 4d. per ton. January 1838. PARISH OF WEMYSS. PRESBYTERY OF KIRKCALDY, SYNOD OF FIFE. THE REV, JOHN M'LACHLAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries. — The name of this parish is of Gaelic origin, the word Weem or Wemyss signifying a cave, manifestly in allusion to the number of caves on the sea-shore. It is bound- ed by the parish of Dysart, on the west ; by Markinch, on the north and east ; and by the Frith of Forth, on the south. Its length from south-west to north-east is about 6 miles ; and its breadth about \\ : in whole, it contains about 9 square miles. WEMYSS. 391 Topographical Appearances. — The ground immediately above the sea-shore is, in some places, considerably elevated, and rises with a gentle slope to the north, and also to the west Along the sea-shore, there is a line of rocks which extends a good way into the sea, even at low water-mark. The whole beach is very rocky, and may well be designated iron bound. Climate. — The climate, upon the whole, may be said to be good. The air, as might be expected, is, during the winter months espe- cially, keen and bracing, and at all times the temperature of the atmosphere is sensibly felt to be colder than that of districts five or six miles up the country. Mineralogy. — This parish rests upon rocks which belong wholly to the coal formation. From the river Leven, even as far west as Wemyss Castle, the strata are composed of dark red sandstone of various degrees of hardness, colour, and durability; From Wemyss Castle, along the shore and western boundary, there are twelve workable seams of coal, of the aggregate thickness of 89 feet 5 inches. The rocks between these seams of coal are, shale, sandstone, slate clay, and argillaceous iron-stone, in bands and balls. These rocks alternate in beds of very various thick- ness. There is also a seam of yellow ochre, but not a particle of limestone ; neither is there any greenstone (or whin) belonging to the strata. The shore, however, is thickly strewed with bould- ers of it, and the soil when pierced to any depth abounds with them. The quantity of fossil organic remains belonging to the vege- table kingdom, is immense. Whole forests of fossil trees have been discovered in the beds of shale immediately above some of the coals, many of them of the most perfect form. The bodies of the trees are always composed of sandstone, (although found in shale,) while the bark, and sometimes the cellular tissue, round the pith, is composed of clear cherry coals ; and they are found in every variety of size, form, and position. And with regard to the soils, they are as various as the rocks on which they rest, being in some places only a few feet thick, and consisting of decom- posed sandstone, while in others they extend to a depth of from 30 to 40 feet, consisting of a strong matrix of dark-coloured clay, which is quite impervious to water. Wood. — The appearance of the parish within the last forty years has been greatly improved, in consequence of the great number of trees that have been planted in various quarters of it, and which 392 FIFESHIRE. are in a very thriving condition, and which shelter and benefit the crops. In the neighbourhood of Wemyss Castle, there is a num- ber of very old trees of various kinds, and which have grown to a large size, clearly showing that when trees are properly attended to, they will grow and prosper even near the sea-shore. II. — Civil History. Plan. — There is in the possessi