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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I JS7 NS 4 THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. XL . t . •*. THE NEW \*i>- - \- V y STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. VOL. XI. / FORFAR-KINCABDINE. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. • . • FORFAR. :y*£-*r '^*-' CONTENTS. ABBRLBMNO, PAGE 6S6 AIRLIB, 670 ARBIRLOT, 332 ARBROATH, 74 AUCBTBRHOUSB, 648 BARRIE, 659 BRBCHIN, 129 CARBSTON, 518 CARMTLIB, 351 CORTACHY AND CLOYA, 434 CRAIG, 244 DUN, 123 DUNDBB, 1 DUNNICHEN, 142 BASSIE AND NBVAY, 475 EDZBLL, 621 FARNBL1., 109 FEARN, 311 FINHAVBN OR OATHLAW, 291 FORFAR, 691 FOWLI8, 460 GLAMMISS, 337 GLBNISLA, 421 GUTHRIE, 489 INYERARITT, 234 INVBRKEILOR, 239 KBTTINS, 641 KINOOLDRUM, 611 KINNELL, 393 KIN NETTLES, 206 KIRKDBN, 383 KIRRIRMUIR, 158 LBTHNOT AND NAVAR, . . . 687 LIFF AND BENYIK, 568 LINTRATHEN, 640 LOCHLBE, 191 LOGIB PERT, 263 LUNAN, 320 LUNDIB AND FOWLIS, 455 VUl CONTENTS. MAINS AND STRATRMARTINE, PAGE 54 MARYTOWN, 115 MENMUIR, .... 656 MONIFIETH, . . . 539 MONIKIE, . . 485 MONTROSE, . . 271 MURROBS, .... 591 NEWTVLE, . . . • . 558 OATULAW OR FINIIAVEN, . 291 PANRRIDR, ... 67 RBSCOBIE, .... 596 RUTHVEN, .... 413 ST VIGEANS, .... 489 STRICKATHROW, , . . 662 TANNADICE, .... 198 TRALING, .... 378 ■ ^ 5a^»3'!as8'ima«Jtrm:iS. Wi^fj ^^^fe^^^' K' ^^^pi^~* * ^^^K "^ ff ' -.^ ■ 1 PARISH OF DUNDEE. PRESBYTERY OF DUNDEE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. Ministers of the Old and South Churches^ THE REV. ARCHIBALD M*LACHLAN, D. D. THE REV. PATRICK M*VICAR, D.D. THE REV. CHARLES ADIE, D. D. Ministers of the Cross and Steeple Churches^ THE REV. JAMES THOMSON, M. A. THE REV. ALEXANDER PETERS, D.D. Minister of St David* Sy * THE REV. GEORGE TOD.' I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries^ ^c. — Dundee, a large manufacturing town and parish, is situate on the northern bank of the river Tay, about sixty miles from its source, and twelve from the open sea. The name was anciently written Dunde or Dundie. Some regard it as a contracted form of Dei Donum, which is the designation of the town in law Latin. There can be no doubt, however, that the word is Celtic, and was originally either Dunde or Duntaw, (in Latin Taodunum ;) the former signifying the Hill of God, the latter the Hill of Tay, — both probably in allusion to an insulat- ed conical hill immediately behind the town, which rises to the height of about 525 feet above the level of the river, and which would in all probability be the first object to receive a name from our Celtic forefathers. The parish extends along the river about six miles. At its west- ern branch it is about two miles broad, but it gradually narrows towards its eastern limits, at which it strikes off from the river at right angles, so as to extend above five miles in a northerly direc- tion. The Tay forms the boundarj- of the parish on the south ; * In this Account the branch of Natural History has been drawn up by Mr M*"Vicar; Civil History by Dr Adic; Population by Dr Peters and the Rev. G. Tod ; Industry by the Rev. J. Thomson ; Parochial Economy !)y the Ilev. G. Tod. FORFAR. A 2 FORFARSHIRE. the united parishes of Liff and Benvie on the west; the united parishes of Mains and Strathmartine on the north; and the parishes of Murroes and Monifieth on the east. Climate. — All those places lying to the south of the line of great- est elevation, (which runs nearly east and west,) possessing not only a better exposure to the sun, but also his reflexion from the • river in summer, and the radiation from it in winter, enjoy a finer climate than those situate on the northern aspect And of all the places in the parish, none is better sheltered than the town. But, either on account of the exhalations arising from silt of which a great extent is uncovered twice every day by the recess of the tide, or from the original swampiness of the bottom on which a con- siderable part of the town stands, or from the impurity of the at- mosphere arising from the smoke of steam-engines used in the ma- nufactories, or from the denseness of the population in many dis- tricts, or from the negligent habits of the people as to cleanliness, or from a combination of several, or of all these causes, the town must be regarded as still rather unhealthy. Diseases. — Asthma, (which, however, seems scarcely to impair the longevity of those who are affected with it,) typhus fever, and even dysentery, though not to the same extent as formerly, are still in some measure endemic. In 1819, typhus fever prevailed to an alarming extent, number- ing, during seven months, 1264 seizures, and 95 deaths. And in 1832, malignant cholera made two eruptions, one in July, the other in October, and prevailed more or less for the same length of time as the typhus of 1819, (but at the opposite season,) carrying off 612 persons out of 808 seized. In 1833, this dreadful malady again revisited the town, but though it was very fatal in certain quarters, (Seagate and Black's Croft,) it did not become generally diffused, and the number carried off* by it was comparatively small. Cholera has now (December 1833) been succeeded by small-pox. Hydrography. — Full tide in the estuary of the Tay, which, as has been stated, washes the southern limits of the parish, is gene- rally said to occur on the days of the new and full moons, at a quar- ter past two o'clock, but it flows in the harbour of Dundee till about half past two. The average height of the spring tides, as measur- ed by an index at the entrance to King William's Dock, is about seventeen feet, while that of the neap tides is about eleven feet. The water opposite the town, though saline, is not wholly oceanic, being diluted to a considerable extent by the fresh water flowing DUNDEE. 3 down the river; and this probably is the reason why marine in- sects never attack the piles, buoys, or. beacons about the harbour. The river opposite the town is rather less than two miles broad. The channel across is much interrupted by a sand bank,* which, though formed within the last forty years, has now at full spring tides only about ten feet water over its summit ; and at neap tides scarcely more than four. Its position is not far from midway across. Its form is spindle-shaped ; its length, as seen at low water, upwards of a mile ; and its course parallel to that of the river. At present its lower or eastern extremity is stretching down in the form of a curve concave towards the harbour of Dundee. It is, however, so constant- ly altering its features, that no other remark need be made upon it, but that it is always increasing in quantity, and slowly moving down the river. Of the water, which is carried through the town in pipes, there is but a very inadequate supply ; and this is the more deeply to be regretted, since it has been lately estimated, that for a sum be- tween L. 40,000 and L. 50,000, a supply of 200,000 cubic feet daily of good water may be obtained from any of three sources at no great distance. Geoloff^.—^The whole parish, along with all the surrounding country, consists of rocks subjacent to the carboniferous strata, and interposed between them and the members of the primitive series. Of the last mentioned class of rocks, the nearest to the parish is mica-slate, (whidh forms a great part of the Grampian range,) lying about twenty miles to the north; while the nearest coal-pits are in Fifeshire, about fifteen miles to the south. That part of the intermediate series which forms the parish of Dundee is composed chiefly of porphyry, sandstone, and amygdaloid, which are here mentioned in their apparent order of superposition in an ascending series. In the sandstone, and especially in the amyg- daloid, there also occur included masses and alternating beds of * As this bank is an object of great interest, in reference to the navigation of the Tay, and as it may be important in some future age to ascertain its present magni- tude and position somewhat accurately, we have thought it might be worth while to gire the following data, with which we have been favoured by one of the engineers at the harbour. The base line, being the sea wall of Earl Grey*s dock, at present known by the name of the West Protection Wall, a line 817 feet in length ; the two eitremities of the middle bank at low water, on December dd, 1833, being the ^2d day of the moon*s age, make the following angles : With the base line at its eastern extremity, 57'' 54' and 26^ 2' With the base line at its western extremity, 112* 23' and 150° 10 4 FOUFARSHIKE. trap; and the sandstone often possesses such characters, as to identify it with the different varieties of what is often called clay- stone. The porphyry is most fully displayed on the precipice which forms the bank of the river, about two miles west from the town. Its colour is brownish-red, and the porphyritic structure is indicated by crystalliform spots, differing from the basis rather in the paleness of their tint than in their composition. It is traversed by veins, consisting usually of jasper, heavy spar, and sparry iron ore, with occasionally acicular crystals of manganese. Its junctions with the sandstone (which usually overlies it, but at other times dips be- neath it,) are extremely interesting. In some places the transi- tion is violent and abrupt, and accompanied by dislocations ; at other places the porphyrj' gradually passes into the sandstone, and large masses occur of a stnicture every way intermediate. The physical characters of the two rocks are, indeed, often very similar, both being usually of a brick colour, both at some places displaying a stratified structure, and at other places both seeming to want it. The sandstone also is occasionally trsCVersed by veins similar to those which have been already described as traversing the porphyry. Upon the whole, the phenomena displayed by these two rocks in the district alluded to are very interesting. • To describe them more minutely would be incompatible with the limits of this work. But a good idea of them may be formed, by supposing that both rocks resulted from the same materials, those parts which contained most alumina and alkaline matter having been softened, and in some places fused and thrust up among the beds of the more silicious strata, thus giving rise to the porphyry ; while the more silicious parts, having been softened merely where most powerfully heated, •still retain more or less perfectly the characters of sandstone. Sandstone forms the greatest part of the substratum of the pa- rish. In the western parts it has usually a westerly dip, and in the eastern an easterly ; but the descent of the strata is usually more or less towards the tide. The uppermost strata are gene- rally of a red colour. This gradually passes through a purplish tint into grey ; having attained which, the rock is of excellent quality for architectural purposes, and many quarries of it are worked in different districts of the parish. Reposing on the sand- stone are the remains of a great bed of amygdaloid, which, though still forming some of the hills, and a great part of the coast on the opposite side of the river, and of the uplands which bound the DUNDEE. 5 Carse of Gowrie on the north and west, lias mostly disappeared from this parish; leaving only the more durable masses of trap, which had been formerly included in it. Such appears to be the geological history of the rocks which form the hill of Balgay, the Law, and other eminences of whin in the parish. On the eastern shoulder of the Law, indeed, the trap is still, at a considerable ele- Tation, immersed in the amygdaloid, through which a tunnel has lately been cut in forming the line of a railway into Strathmore. In the place named the Den^ at the east end of the town, the junc- tion of the sandstone with the trap may be observed, presenting phenomena well worthy of the attention of the geologist. Much of the trap in the parish is of a tufaceous nature, and though, when newly opened upon, seemingly very fit for road metal, moulders away in the course of a few months, generally weathering in concentric lamellae. Nor, indeed, is the trap of the Law much worthy of confidence as a road metal. Its most remarkable features are its almost resinous lustre and highly conchoidal fracture. Other masses of trap in the parish, however, such as that forming the rock of the Magdalene Yard, and the quarry near Stobs' Muir, are ex- tremely durable. Zoology. — Under this head the parish presents little that is in- teresting. In none of the strata have organic remains (so far as we are aware) been met with, though, in the analogous rocks of tha neighbourhood, even those of vertebrated animals have been found.* It is perhaps worthy of remark, that the golden-crested wren (Regvlus cristatus) occasionally nestles in the hill of Balgay, and that the water-shrew fSorex fodiens) is by no means rare in the brooks of the neighbourhood. The fish of greatest conside- ration in the river is the salmon ; but a description of the manner of fishing it belongs more properly to other parishes. Among the Invertebrata^ few species occur worthy of notice. In pools of water on the rock at Broughty Ferrj', however, a very beautiful Sabella ( Cuv.) seemingly the T. Fabricia of the Fauna Grcmlajidica^ which does not appear to have been previously recognized as an inhabitant of our countrj', is to be met with. At the point of the Magdalene Yard, also, the student will always be able to procure alive, at the proper season, several interesting zoophytes, and, among others, the Campanularia gehiinosa^ and Coryna squamata. ( See Flem. Phil. Zool. PI. V. fig. 1 and 3.) • See a paper by the Rev. Dr Fleming of Clackmannan, Edin. Journal of NaV. History and Geographical Science^ New Series, No, 2. 6 FORFARSHIRE. Botany, — The botany of the parish is ako devoid of peculiar interest. It may be merely remarked, that a variety of Centaurea scabiosa with white flowers, Potentilla vema, and P. reptans, Spirea JUipendula^ and Allium vineale, are met with on the bank of the Tay to the west of the town. To the east some rare mosses, such as Didymodon rigidulum^ and Grimmia ovata, (the latter abundantly on the Hare- Craig,) occur; and within water-mark the usual species of Alyce^ of which Fucus nodosus, F. vesiculosus, and F. canaliculatus^ are the most characteristic In the fissures and emptied veins of the red porphyry and sandstone, the Cera-- mium Rothii frequently forms a covering resembling the richest crimson velvet. II. — Civil History. Accounts of the Parish. — There is no history of the town and parish, properly so called, of later date than the very able one which was furnished by the late Dr Small in the former Statisti- cal Account of Scotland. In the life of General Monck, written by Gamble, his own Chaplain, we learn several particulars of im- portance respecting it ; such as its being a very rich and thriving place, — having had sixty ships taken in the harbour, which were sent away laden with plate and money; and' condemning the ra- pacity of the plunderers, the writer mentions, with some degree of satisfaction, the loss of the whole fleet in crossing the bar of tiie river. In 1678, there was published, in Latin, a description of the county of Angus, which is still extant, by the Rev. Robert Edward, who was a native of Dundee, and minister of the neighbour- ing parish of Murroes. The only copy of this work that could be procured was found among some papers in the house of Pan- mure in 1781. In 1793, it was translated into English, and has lately been republished in this town. According to this writer, the harbour, by very great labour and expense, had been rendered a very safe and agreeable station for vessels — " the citizens emi- nent in regard to their skill and industry in business." He adds, ** so remarkable were the people of this place for their adherence to the true religion, that, at the time of the Reformation, it was honoured with the appellation of the second Geneva," Historical Notices. — Although the early history of Dundee is involved in much obscurity, the town appears to have been long a place of considerable note. It was occupied by an English garrison DUNDEE. 7 under Edward L It was considered of such consequence in giving security for the observance of national treaties in the reigns subse- quent to that of Robert Bruce, as to rank the third town in Scotland after Edinburgh. It bore a large share of the taxes in the reign of James L^ and of the 1200 merks im)M)sed upon the adjoining towns, for fitting out a yacht to bring home the King and Queen from DenmarL The proportion paid by Dundee was 700 merks. In the troubled times of Bruce and Baliol, the town suffered severely. It was twice taken by Edward I., and as often retaken by Wallace and Bruce. In each of the reigns of Richard 11. and Edward VI. it was almost reduced to ashes. But it experienced its last and most destructive calamity when it was stormed by Monck, in the year 1651. It was estimated that not less than a sixth part of the inhabitants perished, among whom were many strangers of eminence, and not a few respectable clergj-men, from the south, who had fled thither as to a city of refuge. Besides the immense loss of lives and property, the greatest part of the ancient records of the town is said to have been carried off or destroyed ; and, a seven years' dearth happening about the beginning of the following century, the town did not soon recover from the effects of these disasters, — indeed, not until several years after the Rebel- lion in 1745. The union of England and Scotland was doubtless productive of many beneficial consequences to both nations, especially to the latter ; and if by the loss of our Dutch and French privileges it was the occasion of destroying one branch of our trade, that of plaidinffj or the spinning and weaving of coarse woollens, which was then the staple manufacture of the place, it opened up a new source of commerce and wealth, in the manufacture of linens of various kinds, particularly those of coarser fabric, and which go under the name of Osnaburghs, canvas, bagging, &c. which are exported to the foreign markets, and from which not a few for- tunes have been realized. The manufacture of cottons was attempted here about 1780, but was not found to succeed, and has long since been given up. The manufacture of thread, for which this town was famous for a period of sixty years, and the manufacture of glass, which em- ployed at one time about a hundred persons, not having been found productive, have been entirely relinquished. The manufacture of linen is now, and for the last fifty years has been, our principal ar- ticle of trade ; its different operations employ the greater part of 8 FORFARSHIRE. the population ; and Dundee is considered, in regard to this kind of manufacture, the first town in Great Britain. With the increase of the trade and wealth of th6 place, there has been, especially during the last twenty years, an immense ad- dition to its size. It has produced many enterprising merchants and adventurers. There have been introduced many improvements and inventions, which were unknown to our forefathers, and are the boast of later times, and which tend at once to give employment to the industrious, to facilitate the intercourse of conunerce, and to contribute to the sum of human enjoyment. Among these the first in the order of time, and perhaps not the least worthy of being noticed in any point of view, is the Steam-boat which plies on the Tay between Dundee and Newport, on the opposite coast of Fife ; of which an account will be found in the sequel under the branch of Industry, Police Establishment. — In consequence of the rapid increase of the population of Dundee and surrounding district, and the ordinary provision of the law for preserving the public peace hav- ing become inadequate for the purpose, in 1824, the magistrates, with the concurrence of the inhabitants at large, applied to Par- liament for an act to provide for the better paving, lighting, watch- ing, and cleansing, the burgh, and for building and maintaining a Bridewell there. The bounds comprehended within the Act, which was readily obtained, were extended considerably beyond the an- cient royalty ; including Blackness toll upon the west, Clepington upon the north, Mayfield upon the east, the southern boundary being the river Tay. The town, by this Act, is divided into ele- ven wards ; each ward yearly elects two general and two resident commissioners. The resident ones, who are all head constables of their wards, have a general superintendence, and have also a charge of the measures necessary for promoting the peace of the in- habitants. To the general commissioners, again, is committed the general execution of the act. Besides the officers annually elect- ed from the different wards, the following are general commis- sioners ex officio^ viz. the provost, the four bailies, the dean of guild and councillor, the convener of the town trades, the sheriflf- depute and his substitute, residing within the bounds of the police. The general commissioners elect a superintendent, who is respon- sible for all the inferior officers, and vested with discretionary powers of dismissing or appointing them at his pleasure. The electors of these commissioners are those who possess dwelling-houses or DUNDEE. 9 Other places of L. 5 of yearly rent. The qualification for a ge- neral commissioner is, that he possesses property within the ward of L. 10 yearly rent ; and of a resident one, property of L, 5. The expense of the establishment is defrayed by an assessment, levied according to the rental of all shops, warehouses, and dwel- ling-houses, situate within the limits of the act. The rate of as- sessment is fixed by the general commissioners, but cannot exceed one shilling and threepence per pound of the rent ; and it has been declared that the total sum collected In any one year shall not ex- ceed L. 4000. The Judges of the Police Court, which sits every morning at , ten o'clock, are declared to be the provost, the magistrates, and dean of guild, the sheriff and his substitute, who are empowered to take cognizance of, and to punish crimes committed within the bounds of police, and also of all offences against the regulation of the act ; but in no case can they fine to a greater amount than L. 5, nor imprison for a longer period than sixty days. The amount of the assessment levied under the act has never been suf- ficient to enable the general commissioners to erect a bridewell, — an institution for which there seems to be great need ; and at this present time an appUcation is about to be made to Parliament for a new act, having for its object, among others, the erection of this necessary establishment. The police establishment has been of essential service to the in- habitants, with respect to the protection of their persons and pro- perty ; although it cannot be denied that the streets are not much improved. The number of watchmen is too limited for the extent of the bounds ; and the suburbs, which are generally the haunts of the disorderly, are but poorly lighted. But as the facilities for lighting the town have been greatly in- creased by a late establishment, it is hoped, that, along with the provision, the commissioners will ere long be furnished with the means of carrying their wishes into effect. For, in the year 1825, an event took place of no small importance in the history of the town ; this was the establishment of a Gas Company. Gas Company. — The proposal originated with some spirited in- dividuals. Several attempts had been made, upwards of twenty years before the period referred to, in the way of lighting separate shops by mean^ of gas ; but as the scale according to which these were constructed was too limited, and as the expense was found to ex- ceed the profit, the plan had long been abandoned. By means of our 10 FORFARSHIRE. Gas Company, the town and neighbourhood are now supplied with a cheap and beautiful light. The work is situate to the eastward of the High Street, about a mile; and it sends out light both to the north and westward, to the distance of more than two miles. Not only are the lamps in the public streets supplied, but Ukewise .almost all the shops and spinning-mills, and a great proportion of dwelling-houses. The prospect of another Gas Company, threatened to be formed sometime ago, induced the proprietors in the original Company to reduce considerably the price of their article. The concern is > understood to be profitable ; and it has now partners in Perth, Aberdeen, and London, and seems to work so well as to supersede the necessity of any other like establishment. Royalty of the Town. — The privileges of the town of Dundee, as a free and royal burgh, are of very ancient date. The place appears to have enjoyed many immunities previous to the reign of King William, who is supposed to have first erected it into a royal burgh in 1210, before conferring the town on his brother, David Earl of Huntingdon, and is reported to have granted all the privi- leges to Dundee that had been bestowed on the most favoured Royal Burghs. These rights appear to have been confirmed and enlarged by many succeeding princes, in particular, by King James VI. in the charter dated Holyroodhouse 1601, and finally by Charles I. in 1641. Civil Constitution of the Burgh. — According to this sett or con- stitution, the town-council consisted of twenty persons, including the magistrates, that is the provost and four baiUes, who were elect- ed yearly at Michaelmas, as also the dean of guild and treasurer ; — the nine deacons of the trades assembling in the Town-hall, along with the members of the council, and proceeding to elect the new council from leets or lists transmitted them by the magis- trates. The formation of the new council was thus almost entirely de- pendent upon their predecessors ; and although, to use the words of Dr Small, it is due to " the honour of the magistrates to ac- knowledge, that in many instances they exerted themselves with laudable zeal and success in promoting the public good, yet a cor- poration thus constituted, without a greater degree of intelhgence and public spirit than what falls to the lot of ordinarj' men, was under strong inducement and temptations, to consider that as a fra- DUNDEE. 11 temity distinct from the community, and having separate rights." As, according to the sett^ five of the councillors must be taken from the guildry, — a body of free merchants, — and as this body had no voice in the nomination of these, or of their dean, and as three councillors, also, must be taken from any separate three of the in- corporated trades, who could vote for these only in the leets sent them by the magistrates, a spirit of dissatisfaction, with regard to the election of the magistrates, had for a considerable time been cherished by the inhabitants ; and, after many remonstrances upon the subject, the sett of the burgh, upon the application of the ma^ gistrates, was altered by the convention of Royal burghs assem- bled at Edinburgh in July 1818. By this alteration, the election of the dean and of his councillors was vested in the guildry ; and the convener of the nine trades, who was chosen by his own body, became a member of council. A dispute, however, having arisen some years after the alteration of the sett, about the election of the Dean of Guild, and the matter having been brought by the dis- appointed party before a civil court, the burgh of Dundee was dis- franchised by the Court of Session in March 1830 ; and upon the 11th of that month, seven persons, members of the late council, were appointed by the Court of Session as interim managers of the burgh. During this interregnum, meetings of the inhabitants were called from time to time, in order to consult about the measures to be employed in obtaining a new sett of the burgh, and for giving the burgesses at large a voice in the election of their rulers. Tlie King in Council was petitioned upon the subject ; and a poll election of the magistrates and town-council by the burgesses and heritors, in virtue of an order by the King in Council, dated 27th April 1831, took place in the Cross Church on 10th May, before the sheriffs of Forfarshire and Aberdeenshire, and the sheriff-substitute of Perthshire as commissioners. The proceedings having been re- ported by the sheriffs, an order of the King in Council was issued on 27th July 1831, confirming the election of the magistrates and council, made by the majority of the electors. The magistrates and council thus elected, accepted office on the 30th of July ; and on the 23d of August, an act of the 2d of William IV. extending the royalty of the burgh, and jurisdiction of the magistrates, and introducing new regulations as to the election of magistrates and municipal government of the burgh, received the Royal assent. It is provided by this set, that seven of the members of council re- 12 FORFAHSHIKE. tire from office annually. The seven new councillors were to be elected by the burgesses, and the council was then to appoint in- dividuals of its own number to its several offices. Since the passing of the Reform Bill for the Burghs of Scotland, the election of the members of council is extended to all persons residing within the burgh and extended royalty having a right to vote for a Member of Parliament, with the exception of the dean of guild, who is now chosen by the guild brethren, and who is ex officio chairman of the incorporation. The number of councillors is twenty-one, being the same as under the former constitution. The different offices are appointed by the councillors themselves ; and a third of them yearly retire from the council, but may all be re-elected. In consequence of the Reform Bill, Dundee, which formerly, along with St Andrews, Cupar, Perth, and Forfar, sent one mem- ber to Parliament, has now the privilege of being represented by a member of its own choosing. Its first representative in the Re- formed Parliament was George Kinloch of Kinloch, Esq. who died in London during its first session, and whose place is now supplied by Sir Henry Pamell, whose character is well known among poli- tical economists by his treatise on Finance. Ancient Documents, Sfc. — The common burying-ground, or houfT, as it is called, lies on the north side of the town, and contains about four acres. It is said that Devorgilla, mother of John Baliol, competitor for the crown of Scotland, in 1260, founded a convent and other religious houses in this ground, which was then, and long afterwards, used as a garden and orchard. About 200 i years afterwards. Lady Beatrice Douglas, widow of William Earl of Errol, granted a sum of money in aid of the common funds, and for keeping the convent in repair. An indenture was entered into between the Countess and JaiAes Lindsay, vice-general of the or- der in Scotland, and warden of the convent, that the friars should say mass daily at the high altar for the souls of Lady Beatrice, of William, her spouse, and of William, their son. The capitular act, signed by all the brethren of the convent, is dated at Dundee the 25th November 1483. Soon after the marriage of Qyeen Mary with Lord Darnley, she conveyed to the town the whole phurch-lands Snd revenues in and adjoining to the town, and, in particular, the site of the demolished convent of Franciscan friars, with the garden and orchard, for a burying-ground. Tliat the whole ground was not at that time, at DUNDEE. 13 least, applied to the above purpose, is evident from several inden- tures, seisins, and charters, which are still preserved. One of these is dated dlst December 1564, entitled on the back, Sasina Thomce Holland Horti in Vinella Fratrum Conventualium, The seal of the convent is appended, upon which is this inscription : " Sigil- lum commune Conventi de Dund,*^ This, together with another seisin dated August 1574, is in the possession of Mr Charles Roger, merchant in Dundee. A chapel in the neighbourhood of the bur}'- ing-ground is still standing, and was formerly used as a place of worship for the methodists. The ruins or foundation of the other parts of the convent are often laid bare in the digging of graves ; and latelv) the sextons discovered a leaden pipe about eight feet deep, and three inches in diameter, which went in the direction of the convent, and appeared to have come down from St Francis' Well, which also belonged to the convent, and which had seemed to supply them with water. * Eminent Men. — Among eminent characters connected with the parish by birth, residence, or burial, are Alexander Scrymseor, one of Wallace's heroic companions, whom he put in possession of the hereditary dignity of constable : also Sir John Scrymsoure, after- wards Viscount of Dudhope, who, in his adherence to Charles I. perished in the battle of Marston Muir, and whose son was creat- ed Earl of Dundee. The chiefs of this family were hereditary stan- dard-bearers of Scotland ; and they continued to be represented by the Scrymseoures of Birkhill and of Wedderbum. There are also to be noticed under this head Robert Pitilloch, now called PatuUo, who distinguished himself in the wars of Charles VII. of France, particularly on the expulsion of the English from Gasco- ny : James Halyburton, uncle to Halyburton of Pit cur, one of the most able promoters of the Reformation, who was provost of Dundee for thirty-three years, and whose funeral, from gratitude and respect to his memory, was defrayed at the public expense : and the famous Sir William Wallace, who is reported to have/eceived his education * 1 n the street called the Sea- Gate, the most ancient part of the town, and in whicli stood the former Tolbooth, (the stones showing the foundation of whicli are still to be seen,) a spot is pointed out where, in the times of ignorance and bigotry, one Grixzel Jeffrey was burnt for witchcraft, "[pie tradition is familiar to cvpry native of Dundee ; and not many years ago, when a gentleman of the law profession, from Edinburgh, was searching the records of die council and guildry, he discovered the whole of the docimients relative to the horrible transaction, — a deed which seems to brand with infamy the times' in which such tortures were sanctioned and inflicted by the law of the land. 14 FORFARSHIRE. at the school of Dundee, and in this situation to have begun his exploits by putting to death the son of the English governor. Among men of science and literature, Dundee can boast of John Marr, who received particular attention from James VIL, and who went with him to England as one of the royal household, and to whose grandson we owe a chart and soundings of the North Sea, remarkable for its accuracy, though made more than a hun- dred years ago, Dundee produced the well-known Hector Boece, the historian, who was principal of King's College in Aberdeen, and one of the restorers of learning in his time ; Dr Kinloch, physician to James VI ; Mr James Glegg, who resigned his professorship in St Andrews College for the rectorship of the grammar-school of Dundee ; and also Mr Goldman, a merchant. Some Latin poems of the three last-mentioned persons are still extant, ^^ and which," Dr Small says, ^^ for taste as poems, and for elegance as Latin composition, are inferior to no modern production." One of the most eminent citizens of Dundee during the last cen- tury was its provost, George Yeaman of Murie, who represented the burgh in the last Scottish Parliament, and who sat as repre- sentative for the district of burghs in the first British Parliament, and who rendered this town and county singular services, in re- sisting and defeating some attempts in the way of taxation on hides, barley, and coal. Nor must we omit in this account Dr Blair, an eminent physician in Dundee. A memoir which he drew up concerning the dissection of an elephant is to be found in the London Phi- losophical Transactions. The Rev. John Willison, an able and zealous minister of the Gospel, whose fame has been long spread throughout the kingdom by his religious writings, and, in particular, by his " Mo- ther's Catechism," was an inhabitant and minister of Dundee. Among eminent natives of modem date, is to be noticed George Dempster, Esq. of Dunnichen, a gentleman who represented this district in Parliament for many years, and whose patriotic character was such as to have obtained for him the appella- tion of Honest George Dempster. It was he who first suggest- ed the plan of sending fresh salmon to the London market pack- ed in boxes filled with ice, instead of being pickled as formerly, — an invention which has been the means of raising this fishing to a lucrative trade. The late Admiral Duncan was born in Dundee: he distin- DUNDEE. 15 guished himself during a mutiny in the British navy, and ob- tained a famous victory over the Dutch fleet at Camperdown in 1797 ; upon which account he was created Viscount Duncan of Camperdown and Lundie. His son is the present Earl of Cam- perdown. Sir James Ivory is a native of Dundee, now F. R, S. L. and E., and of Goettingen, and lately one of the professors in the Military College at Sandhurst, — a gentleman well versed in every branch of mathematical science, and not excelled in that department by any philosopher of Europe, and upon whom his Majesty William IV. has conferred the honour of Knight- hood. Last, though not least, is to be ranked the late Reverend Dr Small, who was for many years parish minister, and author of the former Statistical Account of Dundee ; a man of a sound under- standing, of considerable literary attainments, and an able preacher of the GospeL He was distinguished also for his philosophical researches, was the intimate friend of the late celebrated Professor Playfair, and himself the author of a profound work in astronomy entitled Kepler's Discoveries. Land-oumers. — The chief land-owners are the Heirs of the late Aleiiander Guthrie of Craigie ; Lord Douglas of the lands of Clay- pots, Milton, and West Ferry ; William Stirling Graham of Dun- tniin ; David Blair of Craighill ; George Kirkaldy of Baldouie ; Patrick Kerr of Drumgeills ; John Alison of Montpelier ; Mungo Dick of Pitkerro; William Brown Constable of the Wallace Craigie; James Lorimer of Kellyfield ; David Rankine of Dudhope ; David Arklay of Clepington ; the Heirs of Alexander Thorns of Wester Clepington ; David Hunter of Blackness. But this last estate, as well as those of Logic and Balgay, are said to lie in this parish only quoad sacra. None of these, except the lands of Dun- truin and those on the Douglas estates, have been above 100 years in possession of the family of its present proprietor. Parochial Registers. — The register of births and baptisms, and that of marriages, both began in 1645, and are continued, without interruption, till the present time. The former occupies six vo- lumes, the latter four volumes. The records of the kirk-session begin in 1682, and come down also to the present time. These registers are regularly and distinctly kept. Antiquities. — A prominent object in the natural history of Dun- dee is the Law or high hill, which rises about a mile towards the 16 FORFARSHIRE. north of the town to the height of 625 feet, and which commands a beautiful and extensive view in every direction. Upon the top of this hill are the remains of a fortified post, and the ditch is still vi- sible. From the quantity of human bones and pieces of armour which of late have been dug up in trenching the adjoining ground, it appears to have been a place of considerable strength in the early history of Scotland. Battle ofPitalpy. — There is a tradition noticed in Maule's His- tory of the Picts, that, when Brude or Brudas had encamped with the Pictish force on the Tothelbrow, in the parish of Strathmartine, about four miles to the northward of the Law, the Scottish army was encamped on the Law, and that a dreadful battle ensued in the plain ; the Picts being instigated with a desire of revenging the wrongs committed upon them the former year by Alpine, who had entered Lothian, the territory of the Picts, and perpetrated the greatest cruelties ; and the Scots being no less disposed to de- fend their King and country from the attacks of an exasperated enemy. After a desperate struggle, Alpine was conquered, t^ken prisoner, and beheaded at Pitalpy in 834. About a mile and a half north-west from Dundee, on the northern boundary of the parish, upon a small mount, stands a stone known by the name of the King's Cross, in the centre of which a hole is hewn ten inches by eight, and ten inches deep. In this aperture the royal standard of Alpine, the 68th Scottish king, was fixed on that day on which he fought the above-mentioned battle, and fell. The spot is called Pitalpine. Holinshed relates, that it was called Bas- Alpine, from the head of Alpine having been struck ofi* at the place ; and Buchanan adds, that the head was car- ried in triumph to Abemethy, the capital of the Picts. Vestiges of Royalty. — During the reigns of the Scottish kings Dundee was one of their places of residence ; and that part of the town where the palace stood retains, till the present day, the name of Whitehall. Upon the front of the building are the amis of Scotland, blazoned in the time of Charles IL ; and, in the entry or close is a long stone with the national arms, surmounted by an imperial crown, having the date 1588, with this inscription, " Obay ze King, King James VL" When the churches were repaired a few years ago, the back part of the throne or king's seat was found in a small apartment, for- merly used as a prison for delinquents, having engraven on it the ensigns of royalty. It is said to have been laid aside when the ?3 DUNDEE, 17 king^s gallery was fitted up for the magistrates in 1612, and is still in the possession of an inhabitant of Dundee. The iron rod, as tradition reports, about three feet in length, upon which was fixed the head of Lumsden, the governor of the to^Ti when it was taken by Monck in 1651, is in the possession of Mr Rogers before-mentioned. In 1831, while the workmen were clearing away the old houses and rock from the ground intended as a new street from the Cross to the Meadows, at the top of the Mint Close, they discovered the remains of our ancient mint, which was erected by llobert Bruce in 1311. The smelting furnace was almost entire.* Cotcgate Port. — In order to defend Dundee from the attacks of enemies, the town in ancient times was surrounded by a double wall ; and in each of the streets leading to the west, north, and east, were two gates or ports. There is now scarcely any part of the wall remaining, except a few yards at the burjing-ground ; and as the ports had ceased not only to be useful, but had become inconve- nient, these were removed about sixty years ago, except the Cow- gate Port, which is still kept in good preservation. This port has been allowed to stand, and has lately been re- paired, from respect to the memory of the famous Mr George Wishart, and his affectionate services to the inhabitants of Dun- dee during the dreadful plague in 1544. At that time, this mi* nister is said to have preached from the top of the Cowgate Port, from Psalm cviL 20 : ^^ He sent his word and healed them, and delivered them from their destruction ;" — the diseased being re- moved out of the town to booths or huts built for them without the port, and the healthy being placed in the inside of the gate, in which situation this good man administered consolation and ad- vice to both. On the lands of Balgay, there is one of those subterranean dwellings, or places of retreat, ascribed to the ancient Picts, and though it has never been explored, yet it is believed to be of great extents Modem Buildings. — Within these last forty years Dundee has been much improved, — new and spacious streets have been open- ed, — narrow lanes have been removed, — and in the place of old shabby houses, there have been built many substantial dwellings. * In the original MS. preserved among the Archives of the Church, there is a de- tailed account of ancient coins, a seal, and a royal ring, found in this parish. FORFAR. B 18 FORFARSHIRE. There arejseyeral large and handsome halls, and among the mo^ deni public buildings are to be noticed the Royal Infirmary ; the Royal Lunatic Asylum ; a splendid coffee-room ; and there is in the course of being built an elegant Academy. Churches. — The churches, with the exception of St David's, lately erected at the north-western district of the parish, stand in the centre of the town ; and as a new street has lately been open- ed from them leading to the river, — and as these buildings within these last six years have undergone great repairs, and their pris- tine look has in a great measure been restored, they now exhibit a magnificent spectacle to the beholder.* Spinning-Mills. — Among the modem buildings in this place, the spinning-mills are not to be overlooked, — upon account of their number, the multitude of persons employed, the capital therein vested, and the profits which from them have been derived. Till within these last thirty years, the spinning of yams was effect- ed by hand-wheels, and in this way a great proportion of the female population eamed their bread. But about or before that period, attempts had been made to spin flax by means of machinery erected in mills. The attempt was found to succeed so well, and to do the work so much better and cheaper, and more expeditiously than the former way, that the number of mills has increased in this town during the last twenty years. By this invention the wealth of many individuals has been much increased, the trade being now carried on to a much greater extent than what could possibly have becm done in the old way of hand-spinning. It is a question, however, whether the invention has contributed to the improvement of the morals of those employed. Aware of the demoralizing tendency of such great works, not a few of the masters have introduced schools into them, at which the labourers may have the benefit of educa- tion ; and in some there are also Sabbath schools. III. — Population. The destmction or abstraction of the ancient records of the town during its various sieges, and especially when it was stormed by Monck in 1651, prevents us giving any thing like a satisfactory account of its population in earlier times. There are some Coun- cil minutes dated as far back as 1587, and a record of the names of burgesses beginning in 1513; but these throw little light on the • See branch of Parochial Economy in this Account. DUNDKK. 19 subject. From calculations made by the late Dr Small, it would ap])ear that the population in 1651 was about 8047. From that time it rapidly decreased, in consequence, no doubt, x>{ many leav- ing the town from the horrors of the massacre, and the uncertainty and troubles which followed the siege; so that in 1746 the inha- bitants are said to have been only 5302. After that period a rapid increase must have taken place ; for, from actual enumera- tions, we know that In 176G the population was 12,426 1781 - - 15,700 1788 - - 19,«29 The state of the population subsequently, as taken from the go- vernment census, is as follows : In 1801 - 2G,H)4 1811 - 29,616 1821 - 30,575 1831 . 45,355 In this last return there are of males 20,910, and of females 24,445. The account of 1831 is exclusive of seafaring persons, who can- not be estimated at less than 2500. The cause of the extraordi- nary increase in population since 1821, is to be ascribed, perhaps, chiefly to the great advancement in the linen trade, which has pro- duced so many spinning-mills, and led to the extension of the har- bour ^ and which, by giving employment to thousands, has encou- raged early marriages, as well as brought families from other parts of Scotland and from Ireland. The number of inhabitants in the town and suburbs is 44,200, in villages connected with the parish 800, and in the country 335. The yearly average for seven years preceding 1831 of Births and l>aptisin.s is - 818 Marriages, - 393 Burials, - 923 At the same time, in regard to the accuracy of this list, it must be stated, that some burials take place in St Andrew's Chapel ground, where no register is kept; and several families of seceders and others do not, from principle or otherwise, always enrol their child- ren's names in the parish record. The number of families in the parish is 10,682; whereof 226 are 20 FORFARSHIRE. chiefly employed in agriculture ; and 6828 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft. ^ It may be mentioned, that, during the period when cholera vi- sited the town, the mortality was only 30 above what it was two years before, when measles and fever prevailed ; the number of burials being for these two years 1445 and 1476. There are no noble families in the town, but several of indepen- dent fortune. Of landed proprietors in the parish, there are six- teen having property worth upwards of L. 50 a-year. The number of inhabited houses in Dundee is 3892, of houses not inhabited about 68. Many houses are at present in the course of being built, in consequence of the opening of several new streets, and the rapid increase of population and trade. Character and Habits of the People. — Amongst the better classes in Dundee, from the. progress of education, and a wide and daily intercourse with other parts of the kingdom, as well as foreign lands, the style of conversation has rapidly improved. Among the lower classes there are still many expressions used which may be called Angvsisms^ — while the tone of speech is neither so drawling as in Fife, nor so sharp as in Aberdeen. From the number of wealthy families resident in the town, either engaged in business, or enjoying the fruits of their hard and ho- nourably earned affluence, the society of the place is extensive and pleasant. The hospitality of the merchants to strangers is almost proverbial. As business is transacted now chiefly before dinner, the evening is often devoted to domestic enjoyment, to useful instruction, to social parties, or to the club.* In the games in use there is nothing but what is common to similar places. Cricket, the favourite game of merry England, has of late been in- troduced among our youth ; and in winter, the curlers seek their " roaring play" under the auspices of one of our divines, highFy skilled and most successful in the art, who imported it from his na- * Many of the merchants^ manufacturers, writers, and shopkeepers, have IcfV the close streets of the town, and built handsome houses on either side of it, on the banks of the! river. The public works are advancing rapidly on the country. A spinning- mill, with its accompanying warehouses, occupies at present the site of the villa of the late Mr C'onstable, the acknowledged Monkbarns of the Antiquary of Sir W. Scott. The remains of what was once the largest and most splendid house in Dundee, is now inhabited by trades-people. It stands in the Nethergate, and belonged to the Craw- ford fiunily. In this house the marriage of Archibald Earl of Angus, called Bell the Cat, with Maud Lyndsay, daughter of the Earl of Crawford, was celebrated with un^ common pomp and festivity. DUNDEE. 21 tive Dumfries-shire. Public amusements, and especially theatrical ones, have been on the decline ; and a more rational, healthy, do- mestic tone of happiness has been introduced. The people have been improving in their style of living, and in their dress. The hodden grey and broad bonnets, for the manufacture of which Dun- dee was once famous, are almost abolished. A few patriarchs from the neighbouring country exhibit now the only specimens of this ancient costume. A flask of claret, which our forefathers drank without duty, cannot; now escape the tax to the crown ; and the illicit prowler from the hills, who formerly stole into the town under the cloud of night with his poney and his kegs, has become a productive labourer of the soil, and no longer contends with the exciseman. Brokers have been increasing, the bane of the poor, who may prefer their cordial to their family. City vices no doubt prevail to a great extent ; but, on the whole, there is a buoyant spirit of intelligence, enterprise, assiduous labour, and successful specula- tion, as will be seen when we come now to the department of In- dustry. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. The extent of land in the parish under cultivation, or oc- Imp. Acres. ca.sionally in tillage, is about . . . 9812 Never cultivated, . . . . . 195 Capable of being cultivated with a ])rofit, . . In undivided common, . Under wood, . . . . , 254 The soil of the parish is various. To the westward of the town, including Balgay and Blackness, it is thin and dry. Farther north and east it becomes deeper and richer, and the banks of Logic in- cline to clay. The land to the north of the hill of Balgay, and around the Law, is poor and thin, on a till bottom, excepting what lies between Dudhope Castle and Dundee, which is rich and fer- tile. The lands of Craigie lying along the river Tay, between Dundee and Broughty Ferrj', are generally good, and let at the highest rents. The south banks of Duntrune, Drumgeith, and Baldovie estates, on the north-east side of the parish, are of good deep soil. But Pitkerro, which adjoins these lands, and is almost on the same level with the two last, is dry and thin. Claypots, a farm belonging to Lord Douglas, consists of a strong deep soil ; 22 FORFARSHIRE. but towards Broughty Ferry the clay disappears, and is succeeded by sand. The best land in the parish is in the middle of theestate of Craigie, part of Logie and Blackness, and that between Dud- hope and Dundee. The worst is on the north side of the Law, and on the north side of Duntrune. In general, all the arable land is in a high state of cultivation, and is very valuable from its vicinity to a large manufacturing town, where any quantity of manure can be got at moderate prices, and where there is always a ready market for every kind of produce, especially green crops. The kinds of trees raised are Scotch fir, larch, and a few elms, ash, plane, and beech. None of these trees are old, nor is the wood in the parish valuable, otherwise than as it is generally orna- mentaL Ment of Land. — The highest rent given for land under the plough is L. 5, 7s. 6d. an acre per annum ; the lowest about L.l. The average rent of the whole parish is about L. 3, 15s. per acre. In 1791, the highest rent does not seem to have exceeded L.2 per acre ; and perhaps the farmer found more difficulty in paying that amount than the present occupier does, who pays more than twice the for- mer sum. Grass land, in enclosures from ten to fifteen acres each, lets for pasturage at about L. 3 per acre. The ground for pota- toes is generally let from L. 10 to L. 11 per acre to the labouring classes, who furnish and plant the seed, and who hand-hoe and clean the ground, — the farmer funiishing the dung and the horse labour. Mate of Wages. — The common wages of men-servants employed in agriculture are from L. 10 to L. 14 a-year, with two pecks of oat- meal per week, and a Scotch pint of sweet milk daily for the win- ter half year, and one and a-half Scotch pints for the summer half year. The yearly wages of female servants so employed are from L. 5 to L.6, besides victuals. Masons' daily wages are from Is. 8d. to 2s. 6d. ; carpenters from Is. 8d. to 2s. 2d. ; common labourers Is. 6d. to Is. 8d., excepting in harvest, when their wages are from 2s. to 2s. 6d. The sum paid for a rood of mason work of thirty- six yards is 36s. Much of the work both of the mason and car- penter is performed by contract. Prices. — A double-horse cart costs L. 12; a plough, L. 3; and a pair of harrows, L. 1. The average price of beef and mutton is 5s. per t^tone of 14 lb. imperial weight ; of pork, 4s. Hens, Is. 6cL DUNDEE. 23 each ; chickens, 6d. ; ducks, Is. ; geese from 2s. 6d. to ds. each ; turkeys from ds. to 4s. ; and pigeons, 7d. per pair. Live Stocks — There are no sheep bred or fattened for sale within the parish. The Dundee fleshers purchase their sheep fat in the north country markets, and keep them till they have occasion fof them in grass parks in the neighbourhood in summer, and feed them with turnips in winter. There are few cattle but milch cows kept. Those kept in the town are of all kinds ; those belonging to the farmer are selected with care. None of the short-horned breed, however, have yet been introduced, their superior qualities being little known in this part of the country. Husbandry. — The farm-buildings are pretty good. The greater part of them are built of stone and lime, and slated. They are of a square form generally,'jhe space within being used as a straw- yard for cattle. The fences are stone dikes, with a few hedges ; but little attention is paid to fences near the town, where there is no pasturage. At a distance, particularly at Craigie, Pitkerro, and Duntrune, where the fields are let for pasture, the fences are in the best state. The dikes are substantially built of stone, from four to five feet high, and cost for building about 10s. per rood. The ordinary length of the lease of a farm is nineteen years. The rent is paid in money ; but sometimes estimated in grain, as well as in money, converted according to the fiars of the year. The tegns of payment are Candlemas and Lammas for the half years preceding these terms respectively. The land under tillage may be said to be in a very improved state, no labour nor expense being spared to render it highly pro- ductive; and there are no particular obstacles to improvements The following is about the average number of acres at present pro- ducing difierent kinds of grain, and the annual gross amount of raw produce : Wheat, . 343 acres, at 32 bushels per acre, , and 7s. jiei bushel, L. .3841 12 Barley, . 661 at 44 and ds. 6d. 5089 14 Oats, . 762 at 48 and 2s. 9d. 5029 4 Potatoes, 470 at I.. 10 per acre, • • • 4700 Turnips, 521 at L. 12, 9 m • 6252 Grass, 635 averaged, new and old 1, at L. 7 per acre, 4445 Do. 555 do. inferior pasture and waste, at L. I, ;i55 L. 29,912 10 There is little or no hay made in the parish, — the horses and cows kept on the farms and in Dundee requiring all the grass 24 FORFARSHIRE. that can be produced green during the summer. The cow-feed- ers buy all the turnips also not necessary for the farm stock. The average price of an acre of good sown grass for cutting green is L. 12, and for an acre of good turnips about L. 13; sometimes the last is considerably higher on some farms near town. The land is generally cropped on a six-course rotation : — 1. grass; 2. oats ; 3. potatoes ; 4. wheat or barley ; 5. turnips ; 6. barley sown with grass seeds. The dung made on the farm is applied to the land for potatoes, at the rate of about twenty tons per acre, and the dung purchased in Dundee is applied to the land for turnips at the rate of about sixteen tons per acre. The average price of dung in Dundee is 5s. per ton. Oats are sown in March : barley is sown, and potatoes planted in April ; and turnips are sown from the 1st to the 20th of June. The potatoes are taken up about the 20th of October, and the ground is then sown with wheat. There is httle or no summer fallow made. Harvest commences about the 20th of August. The corn is cut down with the sickle, generally at a certain rate per threave, which consists of twenty-eight sheaves of wheat of one foot diameter, and of twenty-four sheaves of oats or barley of ten inches diameter. The average price of cutting, bind- ing, and stocking a threave of wheat is 4gd. and of a threave of oats or barley G^d. Manufactures. — The manufactures of this town and parish are become of great interest not only to Dundee, but to Scotland, and even to Britain. The proportion which they bear to the general produce of the industry of the state is very high ; and their rapid and continued progress encourages us to expect still greater acces- sions to every department of our trade. To go back to the early periods of the commerce of this place, and trace its progress down- wards, would lead to details too extended for this work. All that can be here attempted, is to present an accurate yet condensed view of the whole as it now exists. Linen Manufacture. — Of our manufactures the linen trade holds the first place. It employs the greatest number of hands, and the greatest capital^ and it gives a spur to all other branches of trade and commerce. It is probable that the trade in linen was early introdu- ced into this place, — at least to an extent equal to the demand of the town and neighbourhood, and nearly a century ago some was made for exportation. From the first the coarser fabrics only seem to have been made ; and, although these are still the prevailing fa- DUNDEE. 25 brics, their qualities have been varied and improved to suit the de- mands of the markets, and in proportion as the yarns have been improved, of which they are made by the use of machinerv. The materials for these manufactures are obtained from Russia, Prussia, Holland, and Brabant, chiefly from the two first ; and the conveyance of them employs a great number of ships and seamen. Our information as to the extent of either the imports or exports to and from Dundee, previous to the middle of the last century, is very defective. The following table may serve to mark our state in 1745, and the progress of our trade since that date. IMPORTS, 1745. 1791. 182a 1825. 1829. Flax, tons. 74 2,420 4,685 8,248 14,183 Heaotip, do. Nil 299 2,733 2,207 1,094 CodiUa,do. NU 24 74 2,743 EXPORTS, Osnaburghs, pieces, 10,000 78,400 71,601 73,974 100,079 SbeetiDgs, do. - - 70,364 94,084 101,324 Bagging, do. - - 4,080 62,591 55,176 59,969 Hup and sand bagging, do. 4,842 9,280 Sail-cloth, do. - - 7,000 22,705 45,284 65,683 Sacking, do. - - 14,572 25,348 51,619 Sundries, do. - - 21,570 44,675 51,701 Thirty years ago almost all the linen yarns used in the manu- factures here were hand-spun, — some of them in town, and the re- mainder in the country adjacent At that time the expense of spin- ning alone was about equal to that of the yarn at present ; while the quality of the article was very inferior to what is now made. The in- troduction of machinery for spinning linen yarn has been the com- mencement of a new era in our manufactures, — the starting post from which all our improvements in trade and commerce have rapidly advanced. Unless steam power had been successfully ap- pUed to the production of a better article, and a more adequate supply than ever the distaff or the spinning-wheel could have pro- duced, the linen trade had never been carried on to any great ex- tent, nor had we been able to cope successfully, either in the home or foreign markets, with countries where provisions and wages are lower, and less expense is incurred on the raw material. 2() FORFARSHIRE. In 1811, there were only four spinning-mills in Dundee driven by steam-engines, making altogether about sixty-one horse-power ; converting into yams about one and a-half tons of flax per day, or 468 tons annually, and producing about 224,640 spindles of yam. The whole capital then invested in machinery in Dundee did not exceed L. 22,000, and the whole flax imported into the whole of Scotland was then about 7000 tons. At present (1832) there are upwards of thirty flax spinning-mills in Dundee and the im- mediate neighbourhood, driven by a steam power equal to 600 horses, consuming 15,600 tons of flax, and producing 7,488,000 spindles of yarn per annum, while the sum invested in machinery has been estimated at L. 240,000. In these mills about 3000 persons are daily employed. Of these there are under eighteen years of age, 1073 individuals ; under fourteen, 600 ; some under twelve, and even from six to seven years of age. The number of manufac- turers is by last census, 363 ; and the number of families employed in the difierent departments of the linen trade is 6828; to which wages to the amount of L. 156,000 a-year are understood to be paid. More than one-half of those employed in the mills are boys and girls from ten to eighteen years of age ; the remainder are partly men and partly women of all ages. The time of labour daily in the mills at present is twelve and a- half hours, exclusive of the time allowed for meals ; which is half an hour for breakfast, and the same time for dinner. The work commences at about half-past five o'clock in the morning, and closes at seven in the evening. The following are the average wages at present paid at the mills, and generally in the linen manufacture in Dundee, viz. to flax-dressers from 10s. to 12s. weekly ; girls and boys, 3s. to 6s. ; women, 5s. to 8s. ; weavers, 7s. to 10s. ; mill-wrights, 14s. to 18s. These wages, though much lower than they once were, owing to the altered state of the prices of goods, as well as of the rate of wages in the country, yet, from the generally modemte rate of provisions in Dundee, the economy and prudence used in the families of the operatives, and their having regular employment^ are understood to afibrd to the persons engaged in the linen ma- nufacture here, as many comforts as are enjoyed by any similar description of persons in any other department of national indus- try; and that, notwithstanding the extraordinarv influx of the na- 4 DUNDEE. 27 tives of Ireland, who, from the low rate of wages they are accus- tomed to at home, are supposed to have contributed to the reduc- tion of the wages of labour here much below their proper level. The yams are generally sent from the mills to the bleachfield, or to the plash-mill, to be washed or whitened and prepared for the loom. No running water being found in the immediate vici- nity of the town suitable for these purposes, the operations of cleansing and whitening are carried on at the distance of two or three miles in the beautiful vale of the Dighty. Some of the merchants unport their own flax, spin their own yarns, manufac- ture them into cloth, and export the cloth to the various foreign markets. But more frequently the spinners sell their yarns to the manufacturers, who either have looms of their own, or employ others who have looms in their own houses. Some kinds of cloth require more conveniences than others, and for these factories are erected, and looms of a particular construction prepared. Tlie loom used generally is the common one with the fly-shuttle. Some very broad looms are employed for weaving floor-cloths for painting, for waggon-covers, and other purposes. Power-looms have not been employed here, or at least not to any advantage, and they are understood to be entirely laid aside. In weaving sail-cloth and other heavy goods, men only are em- ployed. But the women are employed in the lighter fabrics, and perform their work as well as the men. Formerly the women were employed in spinning only, and some of the very coarsest ma- terial is still hand-spun. But the general use of machinery has almost wholly superseded that of the spinning-wheel, and sent the females to a less appropriate labour for their support. Old men and old women no longer able to undergo the labour of the loom, and young persons of both sexes not yet strong enough for that work, are employed in winding for the warper and the weaver, and thereby contribute something to the general funds of the fa- mily. The following extract from the books of the custom-house, containing the returns connected with . our staple for the quarter ending the 5th January 1832, may serve to give to persons at a distance a not unfavourable specimen of the state of the linen ma- nufacture in Dundee at the present time. IMPORTS, Flitt, 107,552 cwts. I qr. 2o lb. Heinp, 1:3,902 cwts. I qr. 24 lb. 28 FORFARSHIRE. EXPORTS of Bounty Linen for the quarter ending as above. To Gibraltar. To Brazil. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 93,781 yds. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 836,798 yds. 6d. to Is. fKl. do. 486,873 do. 6d. to Is. 6d. do. 890,640 do. SaiUloth, - 36,243 ells. Exceeding Is. 6d. do. 2,134 do. SaU-cloth, - 40,478 do. To Canada. From 6d. to 6d. per yard, 42,985 yds. To Cuba. 6d. to Is. 6d. do. 215,1 12 do. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 36,223 yds. Sailcloth, - 46,638 do. 6d. to Is. 6d. do. 373»793 do. To Jamaica. To the United States. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 280,798 yds. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 968,998 yds. 6d. to Is. 6. do. 1,260,164 do. 6d. to Is. 6d. do. 3,361,257 do. SaU^loth, - 9,856 ells. Exceeding Is. 6d. da 55,617 do. SaiUloth, . 382,958 ells. To Hayti. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 634,1 77 yds. St Thomas. 6d. to Is. 6. do. 1 ,121,640 do. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 206,227 yds. Sail-cloth, - 2,878 ells. 6d.to ls.6d. do. 527,039 do. Making for one quarter, linen, 1 1,334,256 yards. SaiU-loth, 519,051 ells. It is proper to add here, that one reason why this quarter pre- sents such an amount of exports, is the ceasing of the bounties on linen on the 5th Januarj', leaving the trade to work its way in fu- ture without proving a burden on the other branches of our national industry. The total value of linens alone exported from Dundee for bounty during the year ending on the 6th January 1832, ap- pears, from the custom-house books, to be L. 596,424 Sterling, Hvhich, though necessarily inaccurate, may form an approximation to the real value of this branch of local commerce. The influence of the linen manufacture on the health of those employed in it will be difierently estimated by different persons ; but generally speaking, there does not appear to be any operation connected with it particularly prejudicial to health, unless it be the too long hours of labour, to which some of the youth of more tender years are no doubt exposed. The mills do not require to be over- heated for health; indeed they are well ventilated, while the cleans- ing and weaving departments seem to be as favourable to health and longevity as any other kind of labour. If some regulations were adopted as to the age at which young persons should be allowed to enter the mills, and also as to the number of hours per day during which they should be employed in them, all parties would be bene- DUNDEE. 29 fited. But it is extremely difficult to legislate betwixt master and servant in all cases ; and it will be found, on inquiry, that the wants of the parents, more than any desire on the part of their employers, have crowded our manufacturing establishments with very young persons ; while an avidity for higher wages than the manufacturers could afford to give for a shorter period, has induced them some- times to protract their labour beyond what is good for their health. After every drawback, however, persons visiting the mills and ma- nufactories will see with pleasure the appearances of health and cheerfulness every where exhibited. In health, every precaution is taken to guard against disease; and when any epidemic prevails, every attention is paid to such as are overtaken by it, and all due means used for their recovery. As to the influence of our manufactures on morals, it is to be regretted that wherever multitudes of human beings congregate, good morals are endangered. In almost all our public works there are dissolute parents, and consequently neglected children, whose bad example acts on the mind and the heart as a tainted atmo- sphere does on the body. But there is nothing in the Unen trade less friendly to good principles and good conduct than in works of a similar kind ; and it is due to the mill-masters to state, that most if not all of them have established schools for the instruction of their servants, and that some of them devote not a little time and attention personally to the education of those who are employed in their works. One other remark connected with this subject suggests itself here. It is well known that not a year passes by without accidents occurring to both old and young persons employed about machi- nery ; and these accidents are often so severe, as not only to lay aside those who receive them from working for a long time, but even to maim them for ever after, and thereby to disqualify them from earning their livelihood. Might not a method be devised to meet such exigencies as these ? If a weekly contribution from each of the operatives, at the rate of one penny for every crown earned, and an annual assessment on the masters proportioned either to the steam power, or to the number of hands employed by them, were thrown into one fund, and well managed, it would not only meet these cases as they occur, but in a little time would form such a fund as would render weekly pajments unnecessary. Navigatioiu — Dundee seems, from an early period, to have had 30 FORFARSHIRE. a considerable share of the commerce of Scotland, as, indeed, might be expected from the great advantages of its situation. In 1569, perhaps the remotest period to which authentic recOTds of the state of the flipping here reach, we find that the principal part of the fleet sent in pursuit of the worthless Bothwell consisted of three ships supplied by Dundee. In 1651, when the town was sur- prised and sacked by General Monck, one hundred ships, as before stated, were found to belong to it, of which sixty were loaded with booty captured by the besiegers. It is not improbable, howeTer, that some vessels from other parts had taken refuge in almost the only strong-hold that had hitherto successfully resisted the gold or the prowess of the invaders. From the year 1652, the progressive increase of the trade and commerce of Dundee showed the elasti- city of the national character, not easily nor permanently subdued. Yet it was not until the middle of the following century, when the people of Scotland began to prize and to take advantage of their connection with a larger, better cultivated, and richer country, that our trade and commerce showed signs not only of life, but also of health and vigour. In 1680, 85 vessels, small and large, entered the port of Dundee. 1731, 70 belonged to it of ... 2,309 tons. 1745, 4,780 do. 1791, vessels arrived from foreign and coastwise, &c. 72,777 do. 1822, 158: 1361 seamen, - 16,572 do. 1832, 259 : 2200 do. - - dl,3:i0 do. British ships from abroad, 253, - - 38,287 do. Foreign do. do. 54, - - 6,856 do. British cleared out for foreign with cargoes, 35, 7,854 do. Foreign do. do. do. 4, 519 do. Coasters arrived, 1858, ... 126,733 do. cleared, 1017, - - - 73,344 do. It was only in 1815 that the first great impulse was given to the manufactures and commerce of Dundee, by the renovation and extension of the harbour. Prior to that date, the accommo- dation provided for the shipping was adapted to the most limit- ed commerce only. One small pier, and two or three clumsy erections in a state of dilapidation, and which it required a boat to reach, constituted the whole protection for the shipping, and the whole convenience for discharging or loading. The spirit of enlightened enterprise had been ^t work for several years ; but it was only in the year above-mentioned that appli- cation was made to Parliament, and a bill obtained, for separating the harbour from the other branches of the common good, and DUNDEE. 31 for investing the management of it for a term of years in distinct commissioners. These commissioners were selected partly from the magistrates, and partly from other public bodies of the town. Much pains were taken to procure the most approved plans ; and after all preliminaries had been settled, the work was begun, and carried on with extraordinary spirit ; every thing was done in the most substantial manner ; and yet long within the time contem- plated, the present harbour, consisting of a wet dock of about six acres, — a tide harbour of much greater extent, — a graving-dock capable of containing at once three of the largest class of mer- chant vessels frequenting the Tay, — extensive carpenters' and other yards for ship-building, &c., — wide and spacious quays, affording birthage for about thirty vessels to load or discharge at the same time, — ^was happily completed. From the moment this superior ac- commodation was begun to be provided, the number and tonnage of our ships increased, and, of course, the extent of the trade and commerce of the port was greatly enlarged. Works so extensive, and from their nature so difficult to erect, necessarily created a very great expense ; but that expense has been incurred judiciously, and to great advantage, both to the trust and to the pubUc From 1815, the date of the commencement of the new harbour, down to May 1833, the following are the items both of the expenditure and of the receipt. — Building harbour and docks, - - - L. 163,901 14 24 Impkments necessary for carrying on the work, Quarry at Lochee and engine there, Dredging-machinc, Iron cranes, . ^ _ Compensation to the town for ground, &c. Interest paid on debts, Stamps, conveyances, &c. Cash reoeived : — Shore-dues, Graving dock, do. Sec, Rents of property. Money borrowed, Fines, i work. 2,427 4 9 - - 2,250 16 6 - 3,450 - 440 7 3 :. - 27,.500 - 41,515 8 4 - 517 16 11 L. 242.003 7 I04 L. 138,409 3 8 4,8d8 10 7 1,648 14 1 113,868 10 16 9 L. 258335 5 1 242,003 7 104 Cash on hand, including arrears of dues, L. 16,831 7 24 The following table shows the state and progress of the shore- 32 FORFARSHIRE. dues collected under the harbour bill, from the commencement of the trust to the end of May 1831, the date of last balance. Year end. July 181G, L. 4411 Expenses, L. 315, Net sum, L. 4096 1817, 5908 350, 5558 May 1818, - 5021 1819, 5605 1820, 5605 1821, 5910 1822, 5910 1823, 7145 462, 6683 1824, 8379 498, 7851 1825, 8478 563, 7915 1826, 8055 1827, 7841 379, 7462 1828, 9622 OoO, 9236 1829, 10,134 405, 9729 1830, 11,231 429, 10,602 1831, 10,599 417, 10,18-2 1832, 9374 6 04 9374 6 04 1833, 92(J6 5 5 9206 5 5 The blanks in the preceding table refer to the years in which the shore-dues were let to tenants ; during the other years in which the gross and net sums are given, and the expense of collecting the dues is noted, the commissioners themselves were the collectors. Besides the actual expense of collecting the dues, which varies from L.d, 16s. 4d. to L.5, 18s. lOd. per cent, there is a sum added for incidental expenses, varying from L. 79 to L. 170 a-year. It is proper to state here, that the rates levied at this port have been reduced more than once since 1821 ; and particularly, that, since the last act came into operation, in June 1830, the dues on several articles have been greatly reduced, — the reduction on coals and grain alone for the last year amounting to L. 450, and that on non-freemen, &c. to L. 951. When the plan for the new harbour was adopted in 1815, it was considered to be so extensive, especially when compared with what preceded it, that it was generally believed that the accom- modation it promised would exceed the necessities of the trade of Dundee for very many years to come. It was soon discovered, however, that this opinion was not correct. Several years since, the want of sufficient birthage was matter of complaint ; and mea- sures were taken as soon as possible for having the ground of this complaint removed. A new harbour bill was applied for, and ob- tained, vesting the shore-dues permanently in a board of trustees. A plan was adopted for extending the tide-harbour, and for con- verting the greater part of it into a wet dock, and for other im- 3 DUNDEE. 33 provements rendered necessary by the daily increasing trade and coQimerce of the town. This work is already begun ; and from the arrangements made already, and the well-known activity of those concerned, it is expected to afford the necessary accommo- dation to the shipping in a very short time. The following table shows the principal articles of Import and Export to and from the port of Dundee for the last two years, iM>ith the amount of all, and the increase on some, of these articles. IMPORTS. For the year ending 29th May 1830. Do. 31st May 1831. Do. 1832, Do. ias3. ¥\mx. Tons, 13,287 14,607 10,907 16,040 FUx, Cedilla, do. 2,912 3,907 4,103 2,737 Hemp, do. 1,218 2,179 1,607 2,875 do. 1,140 1,566 1,475 505 Lime, Bolls, 4,436 50,972 42,604 50,939 Coals, English, do. 137,734 125,426 131,621 139,194 — - Scots, - do. 143,149 150,005 168,015 189,530 Ashes, Cwts. 5,824 12,417 15,396 7,748 Timher, IXMUIS, 11,890 7,100 6,107 7,307 Iron, Tons, 1,325 1,395 1,417 1,602 Tar, Barrels, 380 2,539 222 2,547 Whale blubber, Tons, 1,283 126 750 1,981 bone, Cwts. 1,183 114 725 2,138 Oats, Qrs. 879 8,351 4,804 Barley, do. 130 2,022 4,605 Wheat, do. 6,771 18,898 10,525 5,130 Peaae, do. 53 589 875 Beans, do. 317 NU. Tares, do. 60 449 Rye, do. Na. 3,114 TaUov, Cwts. 1,148 367 123 905 EXPORTS. Linens. Osnaburghs, Pieces, 1 13,873 96,957 8,750 100,713 Sheetings, do. 109,161 131,660 143,250 148^7 Cotton bagging, do. 63,383 65,592 49,036 27,179 Sundries, do. 7,491 7,395 13,163 16,793 Sail-cloth, do. 59,827 72,268 S5,522 81,754 Saeking, do. 56,071 45,893 47,948 57,242 Dowlas, do. 30,096 40,915 68,448 69,774 Sundries, do. 24330 11,550 9,601 13,374 467,732 474,230 428,718 515,206 Grain. WTieat, Qrs. 1,565 2,958 2,729 750 Barley, do. 20,985 23,378 34,024 42,626 Oats, do. 2,647 8,135 782 734 Pease, do. 134 169 262 609 Flour, Sacks, 32 132 099 200 25,363 34>772 38,496 44,919 FORFAR. C • 34 FORFAUSmiU:. The following state shows the extent of the shipping and trade of Dundee^ at the time the last Statistical Account was drawn up in 1792, and in 1831. In 1792, Ships, 116 Tons, 8,5511 Men, 696 1832, do. 259 do. 31,330 do. 2,200 Dlff^ence, do. 143 do. 22,7794 do- 1^02 In 1792, do. Employed, Foreign, 34 Coasters, - 78 Whale ships, - 4 Custom-house dues received* L. 6,341 17 11 Year ending 5th January In 1831, do. do. 68,085 2 6 1833, dues L. 64000. Bounties paid, - 46,854 7 2 Ships entered from Foreign. 1. British, - 253 Tons, 38,287 2. Foreign, - 54 do. 6,856 Cleared with cargoes, 1. British. - 35 do. 7,854 2. Foreign, - 4 do. 519 Coasters arrived, 1558 do. 126,733 Do. cleared out, 1017 do. 73,344 Entries and clear- — — anccs. Ships, 2921 Tons, 253,593 There are several companies connected with the shipping belong- ing to this port, — such as the whale-fishing companies, which have among them nine ships of from 200 to 300 tons each ; and about 450 seamen, &c. employed in navigating them. The quantity of oil from the fishing of 1833 amounted to 2020 tons; the quantity of whalebone was upwards of 100 tons; and the total value about L. 54,000. There is also the Dundee, Perth, and London ship- ping-company, which began its operations in 1798 with four ves- sels of about eighty tons each. In 1801, this company added the Glasgow to the London trade, with two additional vessels of about sixty tons each. The late enterprising merchant, trader, salmon- fisher, and country gentleman, Mr John Richardson of Pitfour, had four vessels in the Tay and Thames' trade before the pre- sent company commenced. These were purchased by the com- pany in 1806, the company then consisting of many of the most re- spectable merchants and ship-owners belonging to Perth and Dun- dee. Since that time, the Perth trade has been carried on by lighters ; and a steam-tug is now employed to facilitate the inter- course between the two towns. A rival company started up a few years ago, but it was soon lost in the one that has been so long established ; and while the present company continues to serve the public as at present, it is not likely that they will soon meet with DUNDEE. 35 any very formidable opposition. The only thing likely to niter- fere with a monopoly, of which there is no complaint on the ])art of the public, will be an attempt to establish'a conveyance by steam betwixt Dundee and London, which the present company will pro- bably anticipate. The smacks belonging to Dundee are not ex- celled by any of their class anywhere, nor can vessels be better found, or more skilfully navigated; yet such is the preference given to the steam-packets, that many who were wont to go to Lon- don by the Dundee smacks now find their way thither by Leith or Aberdeen. * In 18^, the Dundee, Perth, and London shipping-company purchased the vessels in the trade between Dundee and Leith, and added that to their other business. At present they employ alto- gether twenty-five vessels; and sail one or more of them twice a-week regularly to London, Leith, and Glasgow, and every alter- nate day to Perth. The smacks in the London trade are from 150 to 200 tons burden ; the others of different sizes, are adapted to the trade in which they are employed. Those intended for the accom- ' modation of passengers are elegantly fitted up. In describing the state of our navigation, the passage-boats on the river betwixt Dundee and Newport must not be overlooked. Prior to the establishment of steam-boats on this passage, the small saiUng-boats were both unpleasant and often dangerous. Since the establishment of the present conveyance, the public have reaped the greatest benefit from it. There are two steam vessels, consisting of twin boats of sufficient size, and worked each of them by two sufficiently powerful engines. The thoroughfare is great, and would be much increased, provided the Pettycur passage was better. As it is, more than 90,000 persons have passed this ferry in twelve months, besides horses, carrijiges, and many cattle. Owing to causes which are not generally understood, the funds of this ferry are said to be not in the most prosperous state, — an evil • Since the above was written, two stsam ships have been launched by the ship- ping-company here, and arc in a state of forwardness for the London trade. These ships measure, on deck, 180 feet long, by 50 feet broad over paddles ; and each of them will be propelled by engines of 280 horse-power. Their cabins will be fitted up both elegantly and commodiously ; and their stowage for goo FORFAKSHIRE. which a le«5t antiquated agency might perhaps succeed in re- moving. Receipts for last year : — Passengers, - L. 3450 Cattle, - - 750 Goods, - - 756 12 L. 4956 12 Fishings. — The fishings in this parish, before alluded to, belong to four proprietors. Their yearly rents do not exceed L. 430. Horticulture. — In noticing other branches of our industry, we must not omit the state of our horticulture. Dundee has been long famous for its vegetables : so plentiful and cheap are they that even the poorest of the people may easily obtain them, while the rich have access to the finer and more expensive productions of the garden, and even of the hot-house, on very reasonable terms. There are about eighty acres occupied in the neighbour- hood of the town in raising vegetables for the Dundee market ; but great quantities are brought from a distance also, so that the supply is good and ample. The average annual value of garden- stuffs raised for sale within the parish does not exceed L. 2000. The neighbourhood of Dundee has long been distinguished for its fruits. In August, September, and October, large quantities are sold in the open market from the orchards and gardens in the Carse of Gowrie, Strathmore, &c. and in some of the fruit-shops the finest fruits are found in the best state of preservation almost all the year round, — a circumstance for which the public is chiefly indebted to one intelligent gardener. All that is wanting to com- plete success in this trial is a fair share of that patronage to which skill and enterprise are so justly entitled. The average annual va- lue of fruit sold in Dundee is not less than L. 3000 ; there being not more than one-twentieth part of the fruit raised in this parish. Of late years a considerable addition has been made to our nur- sery grounds; one establishment alone occupies about fifteen acres, and that was found sufficient for many years to supply the demand. At present, however, there are three nurseries, occupying altoge- ther about forty acres, — an extent of ground more than adequate to supply all the plants requisite for the neighbourhood. Indeed the home demand is much less than that from a distance. In 1826, one house sent to a distance upwards of five and a-half millions of young trees, and during the last ten years has furnished upwards of DUNDEE. 37 forty-five millions of plants of various kinds, making an average of four and a-half millions annually. In gardening, as in most other things, what is necessary and pro- fitable, rather than what is more ornamental and pleasing, is first studied. But the one generally follows the other at its proper distance ; and while other places have, in the progress of their improvement, exhibited these in beautiful combination, Dundee has not been regardless of what has been doing elsewhere. In- deed, the taste for the fairer and more admired productions of the parterre and the green-house, which prevails in our neighbourhood, has been rapidly increasing, and has been greatly encouraged and promoted by the formation of a district horticultural society. This society was established in 1824, and numbers among its members most of the nobility and gentry in the neighbourhood. It holds its meetings at least twice a-year, and at its competitions the va- riety, excellence, and abundance of the fruits, roots, flowers, and vegetables exhibited, have justly called forth expressions of ad- miration. In every department this society has been of use ; in ornamental gardening it has been eminently useful. It has awak- ened an attachment to the loveliest objects of cultivated nature ; given a taste and elegance to minds that otherwise had been en- grossed by very different scenes; and diffused a spirit of simplicity, of puritj', and of benevolence, inseparable from the study of na- ture in her most lovely forms. The collections of some of the amateur members are truly admirable, and may compare with any in Scotland. From the garden of one of the friends of this so- ciety originated the justly admired double varieties of the Ayrshire rose (Rosa arvensis^J or single white rambling rose. In the space of a few falls of ground this gentleman, who marks his attachment to the queen of flowers by calling his dwelling-place by her name, possesses a collection of roses and other flowers rarely met with. Having gathered the berries of the common Ayrshire rose, he reared from them a number of plants, some of which have produ- ced flowers equalling in beauty some of the dwarf garden roses. Others have successfully followed this example, and thus has been propagated a new species of double climbing roses, which in a few years may exhibit an endless series of rich and beautiful varieties. Tropical exotics are rare here. There are, however, some tole- rable collections of Cape, Australasian, and other green-house plants, and also a great variety of hardy ornamental exotics. One gentleman has some of the finest varieties of the Anriada:^ Pelar- 38 lORFAUSIllRE. t gonia, and GeorgiiuBj with various other el^^aiit plants. Another gentleman has from twenty to thirty varieties of the Camellia^ and a select assortment of other tender exotics, in a green-house of only a few feet in extent, the back part of which is occupied by an aviary ; the whole superintended by himself in the intervals of active life, — an example most worthy of imitation. In all the nurseries good collections are kept of hardy ornamental trees and shrubs, border flowers, roses, eglantine, &c. In the open air the Hydrangiaj Medicago arbor ea^ Buddlea globosa^ and other shrubs, which scarcely resist the severity of the winter in the vicinity of London, remain here almost uninjured ; as do myrtles and Fuch- sias^ Verbenas^ and some other Australasian plants, when planted out against walls and protected against the severest frosts of winter. Tanning. — There was once a number of tanners in Dundee; but there are not more than two considerable works now, — employing but a very few hands. The supply of native hides is good ; bark is brought from England and the continent, and dried hides from South America. There are seven curriers and leather-merchants, who employ sixteen men and apprentices altogether. Sail-cloth^ Cordage. — Dundee is eminent both for sail-cloth and cordage. Several companies are embarked in the trade of sail-making and rope-making, who are also ship-chandlers. Banksy Sfc. — There are at present seven banking offices; some of them of long standing. All of them are understood to be doing well, and have the character of being Uberal in their transactions. Companies. — Besides the gas company, already noticed, there are one local company for insuring against fire, &c. and various branches of life insurances. Butcher Markets. — The following may be stated as the average quantity and prices of vivres and butcher meat killed in Dundee for the last year, viz. Black cattle, from - 5,000 to 6,000 Sheep and lambs, - 10,000 to 11,000 Calves, 4,000 to 5,000 Pigs, 3,000 to 4,000 Prices. Beef, from 4^d. to 6d. Veal, 4d. to 6d. Mutton, 4d. to 6d. Pork, 4d. to 5d. Revenue to Government. — In 1705, the whole post-office revenue of Scotland did not amount to L. 2000 a-year. In 1791, the sum collected in Dundee was L. 1600, and the whole revenue from .68,085 2 6 14,246 3 6 1>238 2 2 846 7 7 6 4,290 13 5 746 19 4 88 5 u d,380 19 6 21,694 3 4 1,905 7 7 2,592 2 7 7,100 DUNDEE. 39 Dundee at that period amounted to about L. 57,000 per annum, the stamp duties included therein being L. 1000. The followinir state, though not scrupulously correct, is within the truth, and serves to show the progress of taxation, as well as of mercantile transactions, at the present time. Customs, Stamps, L<^^ac}'-duty, Coacli do. Pamphlet do. Malt, Candles, Bricks, Excise licences, British spirits used here, ( 190,165 gallons, S Land-tax and town^ss, I l*^ I I ^itjiput Imrgh. 1 2,592 2 7 within do. Post-office, Sundries, siy, - - 70,227 10 74 In the above sum the amount actually paid in Dundee is noted. The tax on tea, &c is paid in London and elsewhere, and would add greatly to the above. The taxes on candles, beer, and hides have been abolished; while those on glass, soap, &c. have not been received, — there being, as formerly stated, no works of those kinds in Dundee at present. Although the tax continues to be paid on the whole of these articles consumed in the parish, the last item in the preceding statement is calculated on an average of the present population with that of 1792, and the average is taken at not more than two-thirds of the probable amount, — making the whole paid in cess and taxes for the town and parish at least L. 196,392, 5s. Id. Sterling. This division of the Report may be concluded with the follow- ing statement, which is interesting, in connection with the recent alteration in the representation of Scotland. Number of houses within the old royalty of Dundee, rented above I^. 2 a-year, 2524. Rent of the above, - . - L. 21,141 Number of do. within do. above L. 10 a-year, 807. Rent of do. ... . 13,644 Total rent of property of all kinds within the ancient royalty of Dundee, .... L. 50,288 V. — Parochial Economy. Market Towns. — Dundee is the market town not only of the pa- rish, but the district. The market days are Tuesday and Friday ; 40 FORFARSHIRE. on the former, manufactures of all kinds are sold, together with ar- ticles of provision ; on the latter, in addition to these, grain. From the fertile district of the Carse of Gowrie, the upland parishes on the north, the rich tract that lies to the eastward, and from Fife, a plentiful supply of provisions and grain is at all times brought to the town. The fish-market is well and cheaply supplied ; haddock, cod, Ung, flounders, skate, and sometimes turbot, are caught at the mouth of the Tay ; fish from the south coast of Fife are sometimes conveyed to the town in carts, and women from Achmithie carry crabs, lobsters, and dried fish to Dundee, — a distance of twenty-four miles, and return with the price in the evening. These women are particularly strong and active. The Tay is also supplied with sal- mon in its season. The markets for provisions in Dundee, whe- ther as regards the quality or cheapness of the articles, are not excelled by any in the kingdom. The villages of Lochee and Broughty Ferry are partly in the/ parish of Dundee ; the former being about two miles distant, the latter about four. Means of Communication. — Dundee, from its situation, has am- ple means of communication with other places, both by land and water. The coast road to Aberdeen passes through the town, and there are turnpike roads to Cupar Angus, Forfar, and Brechin. The mail and other coaches to Aberdeen pass and repass daily. A coach starts in the morning direct for Glasgow, and the intercourse through Fife by means of several coaches connects Dundee inti- mately with Edinburgh. In addition to these, there are conveyan- ces which in summer minister to the health and pleasure of the in- habitants. A rumbUng, though capacious vehicle has hitherto plied betwixt Dundee and Broughty Ferry for the benefit of sea-bathers. The steam-boats to Perth invite passengers at an easy fare to a trip up the Tay, affording a prospect of uncommon beauty ; and of late the experiment has been tried, though not successfully, through the summer months, of plying a steam-boat betwixt Dundee and Leith. Rail-road. — In 1825 a rail-road was projected to connect Dmi- dee with Newtyle, and in 1826 was begun to be constnicted. It is now completely opened, and coaches and waggons are employ- ed to carry passengers and goods. The length of the rail-road is eleven miles, and the cost upwards of L. 50,000. leaving Dundee on the north, it ascends an inclined plane of about 800 yards in length, and rising one yard in ten ; at the top of this plane DUNDEE. 41 it is carried through a tunnel 340 yards in length, to the north side of the Law of Dundee. There are other two inclined planes be- fore reaching Newtyle. Up these planes the carriages are drawn by. means of fixed steam engines. This rail-road will be of great importance in connecting the fertile district of Strathmore with Dun- dee and the navigation of the Tay. Goods are already carried on it at one-third the expense formerly paid on the turnpike. The carriages are now impelled by locomotive engines. JScclesiastical State. — The early ecclesiastical state of Dundee is covered with much obscurity. The principal church in former times was St Clement's, dedicated to the tutelar saint of the town. It stood on the site of the present town-house. In the neighbour- hood of this place stone coffins and other remains of a burial ground have of late years been discovered. The church that has been used as the parish church since the Reformation was called St Mary's. It was built towards the end of the twelfth century by David Earl of Huntingdon and Garioch, brother of William L Returning, it is said, from the Holy Land, he was overtaken by a tempest at sea, and when in danger of ship- wreck, vowed that, if spared, he would erect a church to the mother of our Lord on the spot where he reached the shore. Having en- tered the Tay in safety, and gained the land, he was not unmind- ful of his vow ; for his danger and deliverance, together with the pious purpose which he formed, are all commemorated by the re- mains of the edifice, which, with its splendid tower, still graces our town. Tradition says that this church was destroyed by Edward I. If so, it was again destroyed in the time of Edward VI. by the Eng- lish, who were in possession of Broughty Castle. In 1588, the cross part of the building, which seems to have been in ruins, was roofed in; and what is now called the South Church, was used, along with the old church, (the choir of the original building,) as a place of worship. In 1759, the part which is now occupied by the Cross Church was fitted up as a Chapel of Ease, and a cate- chist appointed. In 1789, the Steeple Church was built, and this and the Cross (which has been rebuilt in 1829) erected into churches. After the Reformation, there seems to have been two ministers who officiated in the Old and South Churches. To these a third was added in 1609, and the arrangement has continued since. In 1789 two more were added by the erection of the Cross 42 FORFARSHIRE. aiid Steeple Churches, — there being four churches and five mi- nisters in the same edifice. The appearance of these churches, with their lofty, massy, and time-worn tower, is on the whole imposing. From their situation they are highly ornamental, and they are convenient, too, as places of worship. The tower which adjoins their western end is 156 feet in height. The top is surrounded with a battlemented stone rail, and on the summit stands a small house, which disfigures the beauty of the structure. The use or object of this house it is idle to con- jecture. In 1823, St David's Church, in North Tay Street, was erected. Built by the Independents in 1800, and used by them for several years, it is now an Established church, handsomely fitted up, con- taining nearly 2000 sitters, and most convenient for the population on the north-west of the town. By the constitution of this church, the town-council became bound to erect an additional church, when the three incumbents then in the Old and South Churches should be removed, the New Church to be supplied by one of their suc^ cessors. By this arrangement every minister will have in time his own church and congregation. Dundee has three chapels of ease, — St Andrew's Chapel, built in 1772 by the kirk-session and trades, and still under their ma- nagement ; the Chapelshade Chapel, built in 1789 by a Relief congregation, and now in connection with the Church of Scotland ; and a small Gaelic Chapel, in which our Highland population hear the gospel preached in their mountain tongue. The minister of the first charge of Dundee has a stipend of twenty chalders, which, by the fiars of 1831, produce about L. 309; he has also L. 10 in money; a glebe of five and a-half acres, worth, for cultivation, about L. 5 an acre ; — in all about L. 347 : — and lately he has obtained a substantial manse. The stipends of the other five ministers are L. 275 each. In St Andrews and Chapelshade Chapels the stipends are about L. 200. In the former an assistant is employed, in consequence of the men- tal affliction of the incumbent. The Gaelic minister, in addition to his other emoluments, has hitherto enjoyed L. 10 a-year from the Society for the Diffusion of Christian Knowledge. Though possessing eight churches and chapels, and nine mi- nisters connected with the establishment, Dundee is as yet one parish ; and the discipline and poors' fund are managed by a ge- neral session, containing at present, in addition to six ministers. DUNDEE. 43 upwards of 100 elders^ This is no doubt an anomaly in paro- chial legislation ; but, though attempts have been made to obtain a change of system, the majority have hitherto declared that, in this particular, matters shall remain as they are. Until lately there were only four seceding congregations in Dun- dee, — two belonging to the United Secession Church ; one to the Associate Synod of Original Burghers ; and one to the Associate SjTiod of Original Seceders. In consequence, however, of a division in electing a minister to the chapel in School Wy nd, a party formerly be- longing to its congregation are at present building a place of worship in Tay Square. The numbcrbelongingtoeachof these chapels may be from 700 to 1200. There is also a new and handsome chapel in connection with the Congregational Union of Scotland, containing about 1200; a small meeting of Scotch Independents; a Relief chapel, attended by about 400; a Methodist chapel, with about 500 ; an old Scotch Baptist meeting, attended by 300 ; two other Baptist parties, averaging from 30 to 50 each ; and a pretty large con- ' gregation of Glassites, formed originally by Mr John Glass on his being deposed from the charge of Tealing. The ministers of these chapels (with the exception of those whose principles prevent them receiving stipend) are paid by fhe seat rents, and contribu- tions from their hearers. Dundee possesses two Episcopalian Chapels, — St Paul's, with two clergjmen, and from 400 to 500 hearers ; and the New Chapel, a secession from the former, with one clergyman and about 100 hearers. There is a Roman Catholic chapel, with a congregation of about 300, chiefly of the Irish population. The bishop resides in Edinburgh. There are about 10,000 communicants in the Established Church, — a greater number fully than there arc sittings in the churches and chapels. Only a very few free seats are provided for the poor. A great numberof families are, no doubt, most regular, attentive, and exemplary in waiting upon the public worship of God, and support- ing everj^ religious and benevolent institution; but at the same time, from the nature of the population, it must be admitted, that there are also many who, from their deficiencies in those respects, scarcely entitle us now to the honourable name which the holy zeal of the inhabitants procured for the town at the time of the Refor- mation. Religious Societies, — About two years ago, a City Missionary So- ciety was formed. L. 160 has been raised during the last year, by 44 FORFARSHIRE. subscriptions and collections, for its support ; and four missionaries are employed daily in going from house to house, among the poorer and more ignorant of the people. At present there is a plan form- ing to obtain another society in connection with the Church of Scot- land, so as to employ, if possible, a missionary in the district of each of the estabUshed ministers. The average amount of contributions by religious societies in Dundee (including the city mission) is about L. 550. The ex- traordinary collections for charitable and religious purposes in the churches and chapels of all denominations may amount to about L. 600. Education, — The whole number of schools in Dundee is 80, at which, by the nearest calculation, 3700 children are receiving education. There is no parochial school, properly so called ; but a Sessional School, conducted on Mr Wood's plan, has lately been established for poor children. It is attended at present by 165 children ; and the salary of the teacher is L. 80. ♦ In the Royal Orphan Institution, in addition to eighteen orphans who reside in the house, 116 scholars receive education at Is. a quarter, the funds providing books, &c A seminary in Tay Square, built by private individuals, and superintended by three teachers, has at pre- sent about 230 scholars, and is successful. In the private schools there is no salary, and the fees for reading, writing, and arithmetic, average 4s. 6d. a quarter. There are also several boarding-schools for young ladies, of very great and deserved respectability. In the grammar-school, there are two masters for Latin and Greek. Their fees, 10s. 6d. a quarter, producing to each L. 60 a year ; and their salaries L. 50 each. The. public English school has also two masters, one for English, the other for writing and arithmetic. Their fees, 6s. a quarter, yielding to each about L. 70 a year ; and their salaries L. 30 and L. 20. The academy was begun about forty years ago, and became more prosperous and per- manent, from a legacy of L. 6000 by Mr Webster of London, which became available in the year 1800. From this the academy derives an income of L. 100 a-year, which pays the fees of twenty- five bursars, attending the mathematical classes. There are in the academy at present four masters ; the branches taught being ma- thematics, natural philosophy, chemistry, moral philosophy, logic, * At present there is a committee appointed, and a scheme in progress to obtain a Sessional School to contain about 500, which would doubtless be a great boon to the town. The Town-Council, on an application being made to them, have agreeti to ^ire ground for the purpose. DUNDEE. 45 drawings and the modern languages. The salaries of tlie teachers are L. 80 to the first teacher, L. 50 to the second, L. 35 to the French, and L. 35 to the drawing-master. Their corresponding fees, according to the arrangement made at the last appointment of a teacher, are L. 178, L. 140, L. 70, and L. 35. The building for the public schools having long been unsuitable for the town, new seminaries are in the course of being erected. They are to cost, it is supposed, about L. 8000, three-fourths of which has already been procured, partly from subscriptions, and partly from a tax on beer. In order to encourage subscriptions, the magistrates have divided the patronage with the public. A plan by Mr Angus of Edinburgh having been adopted, and a site procured at the meadows, in the very centre of the town, the ground is to be laid out by Mr Brewster, architect, and a handsome edifice already raises its head soon to receive our generous youth, and form a splendid termination to the new street which has just been opened in front of the Town- House. When the building is finished, the classes of the academy and of the grammar-school will all be taught under its roof. Five schools have lately been opened in connection with several of our spinning-mills, the rooms provided, and the teachers paid, by the masters of the works. The branches taught are reading, writing, arithmetic, and sometimes geography; the number at pre- sent attending is about 500 ; and it is no unusual thing to see the masters of the works kindly assisting their teachers, after the business of the day, in instructing this hitherto much neglected class of children. The system of infant schools was introduced into the town about three years ago, by a committee of enlightened and benevolent ladies. They have a school at the Hawk Hill, and another at the Wallace Feus (with which is connected a school for instructing girls in plain work) under their direction. A third has lately been esta- blished at the Hill Town, under the management of gentlemen. These institutions have been suppofted by subscription, and at one time they received L.178, from a sale of ladies' work, origi- nated by the ladies, who are interested in their success. The habits of attention and subordination produced in the children by this method of instruction are highly beneficial, and the religious knowledge which is communicated must be useful. The number attending at present is 400. A school has also been opetied lately for girls of the working-classes^ at which those who leave the infant schools are preferred. It is attended by sixty-five. 4() FORI AUSHIRE. The Dundee Sabbath School Society has thirty schools under its superintendence, which are attended by 1500 children. There are other schools not in connection >\ith the society, affording in- struction to about 250, — in all 1750 scholars. In these schools the Bible and catechism are taught, and a number of pious and be- nevolent individuals give their labour as teachers, gratuitously, on the evening of the Lord's day. On the whole, the people seem alive to the importance of edu- cation. It does not consist with the knowledge of the writer that there are many between six and fifteen years of age who are unable in some measure to read ; and he has only met with two above twenty years of age who could not read at all ; and one of them was a native of the Highlands, and the other of Edinburgh. The same statement, however, cannot be made as to writing ; many in our public works are entirely ignorant of it ; but the means cm- ployed of late, and those yet to be introduced, may remedy the evil. On the whole, much has been done by the wealthier classes, to produce and encourage a greater attention to the instruction of the young ; and it is to be hoped the effect may be to make the rising generation better than their fathers. Libraries. — The town is well supplied with libraries. A collection of books in the vestry of the Old Church, evidently belongs to Ro- man Catholic times, — ^but of its commencement or design there is no history. The subscription library contains 6000 volumes, and received lately from government 69 folio volumes of the national records. There are also district libraries connected with St David's Church and St Andrew's Chapel, containing about 1000 volumes each. Some of the seceding congregations have similar libraries. Watt Institution. — On the death of James Watt, the various towns in the kingdom vied with each other in honouring the me- mory of a man whose genius and skill had done so much to advance the manufactures and commerce of the country. His application of steam to machinery was the introduction, at a single stride, of a power so prodigious that future times only will be able to discover and to estimate its full value and triumph. For Watt no proud mausoleum nor splendid cenotaph was necessarj' ; — nor heeded he that " storied urn or animated bust" should perpetuate his name. Of him it might be truly said, looking to our town bristling with its lofty stalks, si qiuBras vionvmejitum circumspice! The honour paid to this great man in Dundee was one which his own benevolent mind would have prized : it was the establishment of a Watt In- DUNDKE. 47 stitution for instructing young tradesmen and others in art and science, — that, like him whose name it bears, they might be stimu- lated to pursue the honourable course of improvement. A liberal subscription having been obtained, two lecturers procured, appara- tus provided, and a Ubrary formed, the institution was opened in Ja- nuary 1826. The session extended to six months, and 460 persons, paying a small fee, enrolled their names. In subsequent years the number attending has much decreased. A conversation class, how- ever, among the students, has begun ; and though the funds do not allow of a regular lecturer, a number of learned and benevolent individuals are accustomed to give instruction through the winter. The average number of students during last session was 30 ; that of annual members, 110. The library is now large, and seems well used ; and the tickets sold defray the expenses of the institution, exclusive of the purchase of books. An Artisans' Reading- Room was established in 1831 by seve- ral members of the Watt Institution. It is provided with news- papers and other periodicals, and has at present 200 members. Temperance Society. — An association of this name commenced here in 1829,. and was regularly organized in 1830. Its great cham- pion and most indefatigable advocate was William Cruickshank, a coal carter in the place, who devoted himself with uncommon ener- gy to the cause. He delivered several lectures to crowded audien- ces, consisting of all classes in the town. Possessed of considerable reading, a strong and ready memory, great conrniand of language, variety and force of illustration, he produced at the time a very powerful impression. The society now contains upwards of 1000 members. That drunkenness is an evil of wide and increasing prevalence, admits of no manner of doubt. Whether temperance societies, restricting the number of licenses to venders of whisky, a tax upon ardent spirits, or whether a moral remedy is to be looked for to effect a cure, we cannot tell ; but that some measure is necessary, few who have reflected on the subject will be dis- posed to deny. The able advocate of the society here, whom we have mentioned, has himself exhibited the practical benefits of temperance. After receiving and accepting invitations to plead the cause in many parts of Scotland and England, he has long since left his original employment, and has lately been appointed a preacher to a meeting of Wesleyan Methodists at Leeds. Reading-rooms. — A splendid reading-room has lately been open- ed near the harbour, allied the Exchange Coffee-room. It is at- 48 FOUFAKSHIRE. a tended by about 400 subscribers, its terms being L. 1, 5s. a-year. A reading-room has been provided by Messrs J. and W. Brown, for the work-people in their spinning-mills. Newspapers^ ^c, — Two newspapers are published weekly in the town, — the Advertiser and Constitutional, — the former on Friday, and the latter on Tuesday. There is also at present a monthly pub- lication called the Presbyterian Magazine. Infirmary. — In 1782, the lat« Dr Small and Mr Stewart, sur- geon, established a Dispensary. The success of this, and the in- creasing wants of the population, led to the erection of the pre- sent infirmary. Subscriptions and collections for this purpose were obtained in Dundee and the neighbouring parishes. The foimda- tion stone was laid in 1794, and the house opened for the recep- tion of patients in 1798. In this good work, great exertions were made by the late Mr David Jobson of Haugh-head. The infir- mary receives at present thirty patients, besides those in fever ; the patients being of all country parishes which make an annual collec- tion for its support; and many of the poor in Dimdee receive me- dical attendance and medicines in their houses. The expenses of the house are upwards of L. 1000 a-year, and are made up by sub- scriptions, collections, and occasional legacies. Lujiatic Asylum, — The success of the infirmary gave rise to the lunatic asylum. Several benevolent individuals began by solicit- ing subscriptions, — the first name on the list being that of Lord Panmure, the then member for the county. The foundation stone was laid in 1812, in an airy and commanding situation to the north- east of the town. The house was opened for the reception of pa- tients in 1820, and upwards of 120 are at present confined within its walls. In the erection and management of this asylum, the ex- ertions of Mr David Blair of Cookstone deserve to be recorded. As a tribute to his services, a subscription was raised in 1830, and a full length portrait of him obtained, painted by Mr Colvin Smith, and now placed in the house. The propriety or safety of affording religious instruction to the inmates of the asylum was for some time a matter of doubt and discussion. The experiment, however, was made, (as it has been in other places,) and with complete success. The members of the Presbytery officiated at first in rotation. The service was hail- ed by the desolate worshippers as giving them at once pleasure and peace ; the prayers, and especially the praise,- seemed to renew in some of them a tie long snapped, which connected them again 4 DUNDEE. 49 with their early associations. So convinced were the directors of the benefit arising from the measure, that they have appointed a r^ular chaplain, a preacher of the Church of Scotland, who con- ducts the service every Lord's day. The average number of 100 during the year have attended his ministrations. Savings Bank* — A bank for savings was established in June 1815. In November 1831, the deposits amounted to L. 8312, 7s. 8d. and the number of depositors to 1217. During that year, L.6384» 19s. 9d« was received, and L. 6254, 8s. 7d. withdrawn. The in- terest paid is three per cent. ; and any sum is received, from Is. to Lb 9. The persons who lodge money in this bank are generally from the working-classes. Friendly Societies. — There are about 20 Friendly societies; and no example of persons receiving support from them becoming paupers. Poor. — During the year ending at February 1832, the follow- ing sums have been collected for the support of the poor : CoUectioiis in Established churches, L. 660 Proclamation dues, - - - 160 Feu-duties and ground annual, - - ISO Rents of land, - - - - 152 Interest of money, - - - - 24 Paupers* effects, - - - - 4 Aawssment, ..... 2000 L.dldO The average number of paupers receiving assistance during the same period (exclusive of temporary supplies, board for children, clothing, &c) is 744. They have been paid L. 2057, 9s. 6d. or Is. OJd. each a-week. Twenty-seven patients in the lunatic asylum cost the parish for board L. 380. The seceding and other chapels have contributed during the last year the following sums for the support of their own poor. Independent Chapel, (Mr Russell), - L. 102 Old Scotch Baptist Do. - - - Mr Eraser's do. - - - - Mr Duncan's do. > - - - School- Wynd do. .... Mr Aitken*s do. - - - - St Paul's do. - . - - - Glassite Chapel, .... L.476 Several mortifications* connected with the town afford bursaries to children, or small sums to persons in reduced circumstances. * Thcae Mortifications are under the patronage of the town-council, the kirk-ses- voot private indi? iduals, or certain ministers or magistrates, ex officihfm^-or se\'eral of these combiiied. 75 25 10 30 24 30 180 50 FORFARSHIRE. By Mr Webster's bequest, (already-mentioned,) thirty boys, (ex- clusive of those at the academy,) and as many girls, receive, the boys L. 2, and the girls L. 1, 10s. each a-year, for the purposes of education. The trustees on this charity are, the provost of the burgh, James Webster of Balmuir, Sir D. Wedderburn, Mr R. Graham, merchant in London, Mr D. Wedderburn of Percy, Dr Stormonth, and Mr C. Kerr. Captain Ramsay's mortification, in 1774, affords to eight boys, two of them L. 6, 10s. each, and six of them L. 4 each, and to three aged persons, L. 5 each annually. This same individual also bequeathed the interest of L. 20, for the preaching of a sermon yearly, on the " Wonders of Divine Provi- dence;" the preachers to be the ministers of the presbytery of Dundee in rotation. This sermon has only been three times preached; and the money bequeathed amounts now to L. 73. Bailie William Roger's mortification, in 1658, gives to seven bursars, for four years, L. 4 each annually, and L. 3, 6s. 8d. as apprentice fee. By Guthrie's bequest, in 1674, thirty-eight bursars have about L. 8 each yearly ; and by James PuUar's mortification, in 1804, the capital sum of L. 3000 affords annually L. 10 to the infirmary, L. 5 to the poor of the nine trades, and the same sum to the poor of the parish, — the remaining annualrent being for the mainte- nance and education of ten poor boys, and the support of as many old men or women. By Dr John Brown's mortification, in 1768, twenty bursars receive to an amount not exceeding L. 6 each a-year, and the boys L* 8 as an apprentice fee. The widows' fund, begun by the spouse of Bailie William Roger, and increased by others, af- fords to thirty-two widows Is. 6d. a week; and Anderson's bequest gives the same sum to twelve old men. By Whyte's mortification, twenty-two bursars receive L. 5 a-year, — the original patrons still acting, being Messrs James Jobson and Andrew Pitcairn. We shall state only the sums paid yearly for education, &c. by other five mortifications: — Steven's, L. 70; Constable's, L. 112; George Brown's, L. 60 ; Ferguson's, L. 50 ; and Halyburton's, (for maiden ladies of respectable families,) L. 41. The following are the payments made yearly to charities, or the support of members, by another class of institutions : The Hospital,* * The Hospital of Dundee was founded several centuries ago by the Earl of Craw- ford and Lyndsay, who bequeathed, for the maintenance of the poor citizens of Dun- dee, certain buildings upon the site of the old academy at the foot of South Tay Street, and some yearly rents to be used in maintaining them, as a Poor-House, or Afaison Dieu. This establishment was afterwards augmented by bequests and donations fVx>m other individuals ; and Queen Mary, in 1567, granted to the Hospital of Dun- dee, the lands, tenements, 8cc, belonging to the Dominican and Franciscan Frinrs DUNDEE. 51 Lb 515 ; Seaman's Fraternity, L. 1500; Guildry, L. 200; Mailmen, L.56; Nine Trades about L.700; and three United Trades, L. 13a Three benevolent societies distribute to the poor, yearly, as follows : The Indigent Sick Society, L. 160; the Female Society, L. 190; and the Clothing Society, L.40. Notwithstanding of all these and other resources, such as Grieve's mortification, (which maintains a patient in the lunatic asylum) and much private charity, and not- withstanding, too, that employment is at present readily procured, the assessment for the year ending February 1833 is L.2500; and for the year ending February 1834, it has advanced to L. 4000. The whole sum given annually, at present, for charitable purposes in Dundee, arising from assessment, collections, dues, subscrip- tions, mortifications, and corporations, (exclusive of what is expend- ed by religious societies,) does not amount to less than L. 11,000. In addition to the endowments already-mentioned, it may be re- corded, that Mrs Gibson of Edinburgh has this year placed L. 100 in the hands of the magistrates ; the interest to be applied for the preaching ,of a sermon yearly against cruelty to the brute creation. JaiL — The Jail of Dundee is, and has been for many years, al- together inadequate to the wants of the town. It forms part of the present Town- House ; and has room neither for the classifica- tion of prisoners, nor the insuring of their health. It will not do to allow the means we employ to correct vice to become nurseries for it. The administration of the law ought to be for the moral im- provement of the people ; and the personal comfort even of the most worthless is not to be unnecessarily destroyed. At present there are sixty-three persons in confinement, besides children ; eight for debt, and the rest for crime. A new jail, however, we have no doubt, will soon be built. The magistrates, who have the superin- tendence, have been accustomed to do every thing in their power, consistent with safety, to promote the health of the prisoners. The Graelic minister has been employed for many years back to officiate in the jail weekly as chaplain. * and Grey Sisters, consisting of the present burying-ground, and monastic buildings to the south, Serres-haugh, or Manorgons- Croft, now Hospital-waid, part of the pre- sent meadows and adjoining ground. From certain old records it would appear, that the lands and revenues of the hospital were once much more extensive and valuable than now. It is not above seventy years since decayed burgesses resided in the hos- pitaL The minister of the Cross church officiated to the establishment ; and he still reoetves part of his stipend from, the funds of the institution. It has since been found more wise to distribute the funds to persons residing in their own houses. * Means have been taken of late to obtain a new jail and bridewell ; and while we revise this statement, (in December 1833,) preparation is making to fit up part of the old steeple as a temporary receptacle for the prisoners. 52 FORFARSHIRE. In the administration of justice, Dundee has obtained a great boon by the appointment, a few years ago, of a sheriff-substitute. Formerly litigants and others aggrieved were compelled to resort to Forfar, the county town, a distance of fourteen miles. Consider- ing our population, the presence of a local judge is of great im- portance ; and the present sheriff, Mr Irving Henderson (as was the case with his predecessor), is an advocate of most respectable standing at the Scottish Bar. Inns. — There are three principal inns in Dundee, besides a number of respectable taverns. The whisky shops are most nu- merous and pernicious. Fuel. — The fuel used in Dundee is coal, Scotch and English. It is calculated that 30,000 bolls of Alloa coals are yearly consum- ed by the steam-engines alone ; 20,000 more of Scotch coal, and 100,000 of English coal, by private families. Taking these at 4s. a boll, the price will amount to L, 35,000 a-year. Miscellaneous Observations. Of late years the progress of improvement, especially in manu- facturing towns, has been rapid beyond all former experience ; and perhaps a better illustration of this can nowhere be found than in Dundee. In looking to the public works, the harbour, seminaries, spinning-mills, and opening of new streets, — the greater number of them have been undertaken within the last few years ; and there seems scarcely a limit, except change of trade, to the advancement and prosperity of the town. . Nor in the midst of public measures have more minute details been neglected. The rough pavement of our streets, which formerly seemed only of use for proving the springs of carriages, or affording exercise to the invalid within, is giving way to the system of Macadam ;* and our burying-ground, which lately presented an aspect gloomy to the eye, and uncom- fortable to the foot, has been beautified with walks and shrubs; so that the stranger lingers in this lone repository of the dust of many generations, and the mourner may be seen planting or tending * Our representative in Parliament, Sir Henry Parnell, has just published a vo- lume on road-making, containing great and varied information, in which he contro- verts some of the principles of Macadam. The plan recommended by Sir Henry is that employed by Mr Telford in constructing the Holyhead road and others. It con- sists in " making a r^ular bottom of rough dose-set pavement,*' and then a coating of broken stones added. Sir Henry describes the New Highgate Archway lload, which passes through a wet soil, as having a foundation of Roman cement and gra- vel, in place of pavement. The advantages of the plan recommended by Sir Henry are soitdUyy and consequent ease of traction^ besides being df icr, especially after frosts. DUNDEE. 53 flowers over the ashes of those she deplores. The example of this ought to influence those in other parishes who allow the rest- ing-place of the departed to remain covered with a desolation which is loathsome and sickening to the imagination and the heart. Why should they who believe in the immortality of the soul and the resurrection of the body, be rebuked in this respect even by the savage, and not love and honour the place where the ashes of their dead repose ? In concluding this account of the parish of Dundee, it seems un- necessary to add any farther remarks of our own. To draw a compa- rison betvirixt what it is now, and what it was forty years ago, when the last Report was published, would almost be to repeat what we have written. Its population has been more than doubled; its cha- rities have risen from L« 1900 to L. 7000; its shipping has increas- ed fourfold; and its linen trade been almost entirely called into ex- istence. But the reverse side of the picture must not be conceal- ed. The assessment for the poor has advanced tenfold. In 1791 it was L.400; it is now L. 4000. This, perhaps, is an evil inse- parable from prosperous communities. The poor generally flock to, or are rapidly increased in them ; and where multitudes are ga- thered together at various employments, example does not always favour economy, industry, and virtue. Nor is it easy, amidst the spirit of enterprise which is abroad, to suggest any improvement for the town, which is not in the course of being attempted. A new Jail and Bridewell, or perhaps House of Refuge, a supply of water, and a new burying-ground — the present one being fearfully over-crowded, — are generally believed to^be indispensably necessary ; and measures, as before intimated, are in progress to procure them. In population, manufactures, and trade ; in the luxury and comfort which prevail, Dundee has perhaps advanced faster than any similar town in the kingdom. There are men alive in it who remember when its po- pulation was only onc'-jifth of what it is now ; when its harbour was a crooked wall, often inclosing but a few fishing or smuggling craft ; when its spinning-mills were things unknown and unthought of; and its trade hardly worthy of the name. And curious would it be could we anticipate the future, and tell what will be its state, when another generation shall have passed away, and other hands shall perhaps be called to prepare a record of its progress or decline. Drawn up in \8S2— Revised Dec. 1833. PARISH OF MAINS AND STRATHMARTINE. PRESBYTERY OF DUNDEE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID CANNAN, D. D. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name J Boundaries^ 8fc. — The originaLname of Mains was Strath- dighty ; and no name could have been more descriptive, the parish being in the form of a valley or strath, and the rivulet of Dighty running through its whole length, and dividing it into nearly two equal parts. It appears to have been afterwards called the Mains of Fintry, the castle of that name being the principal object in the parish. The church and manse adjoining were considered perti- nents, and were designated accordingly. For a number of years past, the parish has been called by the name of Mains. It is not very clear how the name of Strathmartine came to be applied to the other parish. There is an erect stone on the north side of it called Martin's Stone ; and there is a traditionary story that this was erected in memory of a hero of the name of Mar- tin, who killed a dragon which had devoured nine maidens. It is probable that the whole parish derived its name from this person- age, and was called Martin's Valley or Strath. The united parish is six miles long, and from one to three broad, and contains about twelve square miles. A part of the parish of Murroes is said to belong to it quoad sacra ; but it is probable that no other annexation took place than that the people preferred to attend the church of Mains, as more convenient for them in respect of distance than their own. The parish is bounded by Dundee on the south, LiflF and Auch- terhouse on the west, Tealing on the north, and Murroes and Dundee on the east. Topographical Appearances. — The rising grounds on each side are nearly all cultivated ; they scarcely deserve the name of hills, MAINS AND STRATHMARTfNE. • 55 and are not 400 feet above the level of the sea. The valley has al- ways been considered a pleasant spot, affording a diversified landn scape of considerable richness and beauty. Climate^ — As the valley extends to the sea, it is subject to easterly winds and fogs, and the harvest is not so early, nor is the climate so genial, as in some of the inland parts of the countr}-. The Dighty, being the most considerable stream of water in the vicinity of Dundee, is used as a powerful engine in different ma- nufactures ; but since public works have been erected in the parish, the picture of pastoral life has been withdrawn, and the eye of the spectator is presented with a busy scene of human industry, and of the arts brought into practical operation for the benefit of man. There are few improvements that are not accompanied with some mixture of evil ; volumes of smoke are now seen issuing from en- gines along the whole line of the valley ; the bleachfields have ren- dered the water unfit for the use of cattle and for domestic purj)oses; the fish have disappeared ; the fumes emitted from the works are offensive to travellers, but still more to those residing on the spot, whose first sensation in the morning when they awake is that of the dilation of their lungs from a mixture of muriatic acid and chlorine gas. The health of the inhabitants, however, does not seem to he impaired ; nor are they peculiarly subject to fever or any other disease. Hydrography. — Tlie Dighty, the only stream of water in the parish, rises from two lakes in the parish of Lundie, and running with somewhat of a uniform declivity, falls into the sea, near the bar of the River Tay, in the parish of Monifieth ; its whole course not exceeding fifteen miles. It seldom overflows its banks, nor does it fall so low in dry weather as many streams of greater magnitude. As the branches or small rivulets that run into the Dighty are often drj' in summer, and the water in the river itself adulterat- ed, and rendered unfit for ordinary use, pit wells have become ne- cessary, not only for the accommodation of houses and farms, but fre<|uently for the benefit of grass-fields. There were formerly some bogs and marshes in the parish; but they have now all been drained, and only a few traces of them can be distinguished. There is only one spring that claims to be no- ticed. It is called Sinavey, and issues from the crevice of a perpen- dicular rock at the castle of Mains. It fills the whole aperture even in the driest weather, and consequently suflers no diminution. The water is considered in the neighbourhood as pccuharly sweet 56 FORFARSHIRE. and salubrious It has not as yet been analyzed with any correct- ness. Geology. — The greater part of the parish abounds with strata of gray slate ; the direction of which is chiefly to the north-west, and the dip an angle from 20^ to 25^ with the horizon. Beds of trap, however, are frequently interspersed, and the different knolls on the elevated situations are composed of that rock. The soil is almost entirely black loam, incumbent on rock, gravel, or clay. It abounds in alluvial deposits ; and there are numerous ridges ad- joining the Dighty which are masses of gravel or pure sand. The land is of ordinary fertility, and its situation near the har- bour and town of Dundee affords the means of high cultivation. With the exception of some pieces of moor and rocky knolls, which are generally planted, it is all under the plough ; and few oppor- tunities remain of observing what plants are indigenous to the soil. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — The union of the parishes of Mains and Strathmartine took place in the year 1799. The object of uniting these parishes was to lessen the pressure of the parochial burdens to the heritors, and to augment the living of the clergyman. A central church and manse was built soon after the union was effect- ed ; and adjoining them a piece of land was allotted to the minis- ter in lieu of the former glebes; and though the two schoolmasters continue, and there be now three burying-grounds, in all other respects the parishes are regarded as one. There are few historical events connected with the parish that have been preserved, and probably few that, if recorded, would be of much interest to the general reader. The present proprietors have acquired their lands in recent times; and any events that might be memorable in the lives of their forefathers, will fall to be recorded elsewhere. The chief proprietor for some centuries was Graham of Fin try. He was originally a cadet of the house of Montrose, and ac- quired his property in this parish and county by his marriage with a daughter of the Earl of Angus. His lands in this parish are now held by Mr Erskine of Linlathen, and the mausoleum in the church-yard is the only vestige of the ancient possessor. It may not be improper to mention, that Claverhouse, the residence of Lord Dundee, is likewise situate in this parish, and that an edi- fice, in the form of a ruin, has lately been erected on the site of MAINS AND STBATHMAUTINE. 57 his mansion, by his lineal male descendant, Mr Webster, former- ly Graham of Balmuir. Two obelisks, and some vestiges of a Roman camp, are the on- ly objects that excite the curiosity of the antiquary. Parochial Register. — The register of Strathmartine does not ex- tend fiarther back than the year 1783. The school-house having accidentally caught fire at that time, the parish records were con- sumed. The parish register of Mains commences with the year l6QSi and for a considerable time all the miscellaneous transac- tions of cash, as well as baptisms and marriages, and the nume- rous cases of discipline, which were carefully taken up and minutely examined at that period, are recorded promiscuously, as the events occurred, in one volume. From the nature of the offences that were subjected to pubUc censure, and the examination of the wit- nesses, much information may be obtained concerning the mo- rals, habits, and customs of the people. Incidental information is likewise procured concerning the state of agriculture. It may be true, that parochial discipline has relaxed as the people have be- come more refined ; but the cases reported in this register do not give us a favourable view of the morals of the seventeenth century. III. — Population. In 1801 y the population of the united parishes amounted to - 1442 1811, 1738 1821, 1779 1831, 2011 If the register of baptisms has been correctly kept, (and there is evidence that it has not been neglected,) we may calculate pretty nearly what has been the population of Mains for the space of two centuries. The number of baptisms in 1636 amounted to 24 ; in 1685, to 33 ; in 1734, to 31 ; in 1783, to 19 ; and in 1832, to 31. It is probable that the parish, after the middle of the se- venteenth century, reached to its present amount of population ; and that, after the middle of the eighteenth century, it reached its lowest point of depression. It is admitted, that, after the Union, Scotland did not flourish fgr more than half a century. The ca- pital engaged in trade was of trifling amount, and, by the suppres- sion of the Scottish Parliament, no small proportion of the rental of the kingdom being spent in England, labourers were thrown out of employment, and the spirit of improvement was restrained. When commerce began to flourish, agriculture revived; farms were enlarged ; cottagers, finding that higher wages could be ob- 58 FORFARSHIRE. tained in manufacturing labour, removed into towns, and the di- vision of labour effected a more complete separation between our town and country population. The yearly average of births in the united parish for the last^ seven years is 50 ; of deaths, 17 ; of marriages, 27. The average number of persons under fifteen years of age is 766 ; upwards of seventy, 41. The number of unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, up- wards of fifty years of age, is 13 ; and of unmarried women upwards of f<5rty-five, 6. The number of children in each family is from 4 to 5. There are two insane persons in confinement. There is also one fatuous, and one blind. The number of families in the parish is 354 ; whereof 89 are chiefly employed in agriculture, and 204 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft. Land'^xoners. — The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 is ten. Only Sir John Ogilvy, Baronet, of Inverquha- ritv, and Mr Laird of Strathmartinc, have mansion-houses in the parish ; and at the present time there is not a resident proprietor. Character^ Manners^ Sfc. of the People. — A considerable im- provement has taken place in the language of the people within the last forty years. Many Scottish phrases are becoming obsolete; and a number of trades-people speak English with considerable propriety. The low price of cotton and other stuffs has enabled the people to effect a great improvement in their dress. Their houses, with few exceptions, are white-washed in the inside, once, and many of them twice a-year; and there is an appearance of comfort wherever there are habits of industry or virtuous conduct. It would have been satis- factory to add, that there was also an improvement in morals, and in the discharge of religious duties ; but, while there arc many in- stances of zeal and real piety among the labouring classes, it must be admitted, that there is also much coldness and neglect. The introduction of bothies^ or apartments where servants are lodged by themselves, though advantageous in an economical point of view, has an opposite effect in regard to moral and intellectual improvement. The natural intercourse that subsists between the members of the same family ought to be very cautiously interfered with, or the young will inevitably suffer. A boy, when training to the labour of husbandry, and lodged in the same apartment with others of riper years, has often to listen to conversation which is but an indifferent substitute for parental instruction, prudent dis- MAINS AND STRATHMAnXINE. :>9 cipline, and affectionate reproof. In bothies attached to manufac- turing establishments, the evil is felt more severely, as tlie number of inmates is greater ; and, being assembled from a greater dis- tance, their modes of life are more varied, and bad example is more forcible and pernicious. The food of the male servants engaged in husbandry is a week- ly allowance of milk and oatmeal ; while, among tradesmen, fish, butcher-meat, pork of their own rearing, sugar, and tea, are in con- stant use. No article of food has increased so much in consump- tion as potatoes, which now constitute the chief sustenance of the poorer classes for one-half of the year. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The whole extent of land in the parish is about 7063 imperial acres. Of moor, rocky knolls, and steep banks that cannot be ploughed, there are 144 acres. A considerable part of the latter might no doubt be cultivated, but the capital at present would not be profitably laid out There is scarcely any natural wood in the parish; but 'the number of acres planted is 436. A considerable proportion of this wood is fir and oak, planted on ground unfit for tillage; and the thin- ning of the firs as they advance in growth is certainly too much neglected. The extent of ground occupied by roads, water-cour- ses, houses^ gardens, fences, plantations, moor, &c. is about 880 acres, — so that the amount of acres in actual cultivation is 6183. The parish is well-wooded ; hedge-rows are generally found on the boundaries of fields ; and the gentlemen's seats are adorned with thriving plantations. On moors of inferior soils the larch is not found to live above thirty or forty years. All the ordinary sorts of forest trees have been planted. The easterly winds, how- ever, seem rather adverse to their growth. At one glance it can be observed that the beech is the most prosperous. Th^re is a beech on an eminence at the castle of Mains seventeen feet in girth, a foot and a-half above the level of the ground, and, when in foliage, the appearance of its head is truly majestic. The names of numerous visitors are cut out on its trunk and branches. Its age is unknown. It is probable, however, that it has withstood the blasts and hurricanes of nearly two centuries. Rent of Land. — The average rent of cultivated land is nearly L.2, 10s. per acre ; but in this calculation is included a considerable extent of moorish ground, which has not been a long time in cul- 60 FORFARSHIRE. tivation. The old infield is let at L. 3, 5s ; but there are fields which, if let by themselves, would not yield more than 12s. or 14s. per acre, and obviously do not pay the expenses of their improve- ment. Rate of fVoffeSj Sfc-^The average rate of wages during the year for males employed in husbandry is L. 12 ; for females L. 6, inclusive of board. Labourers, without victuals, receive Is. 8d. per day in sunmicr, and Is. 6d. in winter: Masons, carpenters, &c. 2s. 6d. in summer, and 2s. in winter. Artisans, however, are now seldom paid by the day, but contract for different pieces of work. A plough will cost L. 3, 3s., a cart L. 14, the shoeing of a farm-horse for a year 12s. Husbandry. — The usual period of a lease is now only nineteen years. The character of the husbandry of the parish is derived from its vicinity to the populous town of Dundee, where abun- dance of manure can be procured, and where a ready sale is found for grass, turnips, and potatoes. The crop that yields the highest price is the most extensively cultivated, though the rules of good husbandry should be for a while suspended. A rotation of, 1. oats ; 2. turnips or potatoes ; 3. barley or wheat ; 4. grass — was for sometime commonly adopted. This rotation is now abandoned, and the land allowed either to remain above one year in grass, or the cropping is otherwise extended, so as to prevent the necessity of sowing with grass every fourth year. Some of the farmers, in- stead of selling their crops to the Dundee cow-feeders, have ex- tensive dairies themselves ; and several persons reside in the parish who have no land, but keep a number of cows, and are every day busily employed in conveying the crops they have purchased from the neighbouring farmers to their abodes, and again, in disposing of the produce of their dairies among the inhabitants of Dundee. A large extent of waste ground has been reclaimed within the last sixty years. About the year 1772, Mr Graham of Fintry began to improve an extensive waste in the neighbourhood of Dundee; and in 1790, Admiral Laird was actively employed in various improvements on the estate of Strathmartine ; and the plantations which he reared, particularly on the higher grounds, enrich the landscape, improve the climate, and afford a useful supply of timber for agricultural purposes. The agriculture of the parish remains very much in the same state to which it was raised by the high prices of grain during the war. The land may be said to be all drained ; and yet a little is still done in this MAINS AND STRATHMARTINE. G 1 way every year, to render the operation more complete. Most of the fields are inclosed with stone dikes and hedges ; and the farm- buildings are in tolerable repair; but it cannot be said, that in the last twenty years either houses or fences have been in any respect improved* The parish, however, has not suffered so much by the fall in the price of grain as many others. The great increase and pros- perity of the town of Dundee has afforded a ready market for green crops ; and there has not been a failure among the tenants during the existing leases. Quarries, — Perhaps there is no part of the country better sup- plied H-ith stone for every useful purpose than this district. Quar- ries abound everywhere, furnishing stones well adapted for every kind of building and inclosure ; and if the roads be not in excel- lent repair, it is not from the want of the best materials. In stating the gross amount of the raw produce raised in the parish, it is not easy to approach to anything like exactness. The quantity of produce, the price, and mode of cropping, vary in different years. The following statement, however, may give a general view of the subject to the reader :— 1296 acres of oats at L.7, - - L. 8G52 809 barley at L. 8, - - 0472 404i wheatatL.ll, - - 4449 10 618 turnips at L. 8, - - 4944 618 potatoes at L. 10, - - 6180 1296 new grass at L. 6, - - 7416 1236 pasture, at L. 2, 10s. - 3090 Uncultivated pasture, • - 36 Pasture in woods, . - . 72 10 Thinning of woods, - - - 210 Produce of gardens, ... 192 Total value of raw produce, - L. 41,714 Manufactures. — It has already been remarked, th«it the water of the Dighty is employed as a powerful auxiliary in the Dundee manufactures. Every fall that it affords is occupied with ma- chinery ; and three-fourths of the population of the parish are employed in works that have been established on its banks.. There are four bleach fields, two of which are of great extent, and four flax spinning-mills; and the machinery of the whole of these works is partly driven by steam. Besides the yam that is clean- ed at the bleachfield, there are other five mills of inferior con- struction, where yarn is washed and prepared for the loom. There 62 FORFARSHIRE. are two flour-mills, one of which, built two years ago by the Baker Corporation of Dundee, is of large dimensions, and in which steam is used in aid of the water-power. Several of the oatmeal-mills were displaced to make way for these manufacturing establish- ments; five of them, however, yet remain, which, being better constructed than formerly, are quite sufficient for manufacturing all the oatmeal consumed in the neighbourhood. A saw-mill, and several of the thrashing-mills are likewise driven by water. The hours of labour in the spinning-mills are from six in the morning to eight in the evening : the hours at the bleachfields are from six in the morning to seven in the evening ; and in both cases two intervals during the day are allowed for meals. The work at the bleachfields cannot be considered as very heavy, as the materials to be moved are light, and the labour, in general, performed in the open air. There are, however, sometimes extra hours of working; but the wages are increased in proportion to the time employed ; and while this labour is optional, it is expected that only the strong and healthy will engage in it. Though the wages given at the public works furnish the means of procuring the necessaries of life, and employment to those who may not be engaged in agricultural labour, — though a ready mar- ket be thus afforded for the produce of the soil, and the wealth of the country be greatly increased, — it is very questionable whe- ther these advantages be not counterbalanced by greater and very obvious evils. The Irish and Highlanders that are sometimes employed at the bleachfields are not of such habits as to improve public morals. V: — Parochial Economy. Market Toum. — As the parish reaches to the outskirts of Dun- dee, it is conveniently situate in regard to a market town. It is to Dundee that all the produce of the parish is carried for sale ; and it is there that all the articles required by the parishioners are purchased. Besides the two market days, Tuesday and Friday, there is an intercourse every day with the town. Tlie articles of ma- nufacture are constantly passing from the one place to the other ; labourers from Dundee are employed every day at public works ; children from the parish attend the seminaries in town ; and coun- try lodgings in this parish were at one time eagerly sought after by the inhabitants of the town during the summer months. Means of Cfnnmunication. — Three turnpike roads pass through MAINS AND STRATHMARTINE. G3 the parish, in length nearly eight and a half miles. On the one, leading from Dundee to Forfar, there are several public cojiches. There is likewise a railway from Dundee to the fertile vale of Strathmore, undertaken in the memorable year 1825, and since executed at an expense of nearly L. 100,000. At present it ter- minates on its entrance into the Strath ; and, as there is no trade in the district to which it reaches, it is not supposed that it can be a profitable concern until branches be formed to the nearest towns. In the meantime, it has opened up some excellent quarries, which supply the town and neighbourhood with stones at a cheaper rate than formerly. There are nine bridges over the Dighty, all of which are of small dimensions. EcclesiaMtical State, — The church is conveniently situate near the centre of the parish, and none of the inhabitants are distant from it above three miles. It was built in the year 1 BOO ; and contains 900 sitters. There are twenty-eight free sittings in it. Wlien it was built, it was thought to be too large for the parish, and some space was left unoccupied. Seats to accommodate 100 persons have been lately erected by the kirk-session ; and are let annually at the rate of two shillings to each sitter. I'he manse was built in 1801, is commodious, and kept in a good state of repair. The new glebe consists of twenty-two acres imperial, and might let for L. 3 per acre. The stipend consists of 3 b. 2 f. 1 p. 2? lip. wheat; 63 b. 2 f. 1 p. barley ; 106 b. 1 f. 1 p. 2 lip. meal ; I^. 72, Os. 2/3 d. ; and the teinds are exhausted. The total yearly amount of stipend, on an average of the last seven years, converted to money, is L. 251 Sterling. There is only one place of worship in the parish. Many of the labourers at the public works have no fixed residence, and spend the Sundays with their friends in Dundee or elsewhere. The number of families belonging to the Established Church is 328, and of Dissenters 32. Two of these Dissenters are Irishmen, who have married natives of the parish, and are Roman Catholics. There are no Episcopalians at present* The parish chitrch has hitherto been well attended, and the average number of communi- cants is 720. There is an annual collection for the Dundee Infirmary, which gives free admission to all the sick-poor of the parish. There is also an annual collection for religious purposes. The amount of such collections is generally about L. 10 a-year. Education. — There are two parochial schools; and two parochial 64 FORFARSHIRE. schoolmasters, who have all the emoluments and accommodations which the law requires. Practical mathematics, Latin, and some- times French and Greek, are taught. Each of the schoolmasters has the maximum salary, L. 34, 4s. 4Jd., and handsome dwelling- houses of two stories, lately built The average amount of school fees received by the schoolmaster at Strathmartine is L. 30 ; at Mains, L. 40 a-year. The yearly expense of a scholar for learning merely to read is 10s. ; when writing is added, the expense is 14s.; with the addition of arith- metic it is L. 1. The charge for Latin is L. 1, 10s. There are no persons belonging to the parish that cannot read, and few that cannot write ; but there are about sixteen children employed in the spinning-mills, some of whom have not been taught, and others can read very imperfectly. There is also a female school endowed by Dowager Lady Ogilvy, and two others, chiefly for sewing, taught by females. A subscription school in the parish of Dundee accommodates a few children who are farthest distant from the school of Mains ; but, in general, the distance from the schools is attended with little inconvenience. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 28 ; but the greater number of them have families. The al- lowances vary from L. 2 to L. 10 yearly. Four orphan children receive L. 22, 2s. besides clothes. L. 16 is paid yearly to the Dundee Lunatic Asylum. Annual amount of collections at the church for behoof of the poor, L. 82 1 1 dues of hearse and mortcloths, . . 9 16 9 seat rents, . . . . . 14 4 interest of money, . . . . 19 9 6 'fines, . . . . 19 1 beadle*s house rent, . . . . d 10 ■ contributed by heritors, . . . 9 110 L.ia9 11 5 There is certainly less aversion in the public mind to receive public aid than there was fifty years ago. With many, however, the spirit of independence is not yet broken, and some are ready to submit cheerfully to much inconvenience, rather than endure the degradation of receiving public charity. In this parish some coals are supplied gratis to the poor at the new year. Fairs. — There are two fairs held in the parish : one on the 26th of August, the other on the 15th of September. Sheep, cattle, and horses, are exposed at these fairs ; and servants are en- gaged. The dues of one of the fairs belong to the town of Dundee ; 4 MAINS AND STUATHMARTINK. 05 the dues of the other to Lord Douglas ; and disputes are settled by persons appointed by his Lordship. Alehouses. — There are six small alehouses in the parish, three of which are toll-houses. They are felt as a great nuisance to the sober and industrious part of the population. FueL — Coals from Sunderland, imported at Dundee, are the only fuel used in the parish ; and the carriage by water is not a heavy addition to the expense. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account was written, many changes of much importance have taken place in the parish. The increase of population has been in the manufacturing, and not in the agricul- tural class. By the introduction of machinery and improved im- plements, the manual labour employed in husbandry is gradually diminishing ; and, notwithstanding the extent of ground that has been reclaimed from barrenness, perhaps the number of agricul- tural labourers was never smaller than at the present moment. It is said in the last Statistical Account of Mains, that the erection of the first spinning-mill was then scarcely completed. Its history is not one of continued prosperity. Great profits were occasionally realized, cherishing sanguine hopes, which were blasted by sudden and extensive losses. The property has fre- quently changed owners ; and about twelve years ago, the works were diverted from their original purposes, and now constitute a part of the premises of the Claverhouse Bleaching Company. The mills that were erected at a later period have undergone similar changes. In the course of the last ten years, however, the linen trade has been greatly increased ; improved machinery has been in- troduced ; a much greater quantity of work has been performed ; experience has taught us how former errors may be avoided ; the mills have been greatly enlarged, and have been actively, and for the most part profitably, employed. The bleachfields have likewise been greatly increased and im- proved. Not only has the linen trade been much extended ; but a finer fabric of cloth is now manufactured. Improved modes of bleaching have been adopted ; and this branch of business is now in such a flourishing state, that new works would be erected if they were not opposed by the neighbouring proprietors as a public nui- sance. Trade and manufactures have advanced more within the vale of the Dighty, in the course of the last forty years, than they FORFAR. ' E 66 FORFARSHIRE. had done during the whole period that has elapsed since any of our race settled on its banks. The progress in agriculture has not been nearly so distinguish- ed ; but here also the improYements have been many and valuable. It is in this period that thrashing-mills have been introduced ; that the land has been drained ; that the alternate husbandry has been practised; that wheat has been regularly cultivated; and there can be no doubt that the culture of potatoes has increased from 70 to 80 per cent Many of the inhabitants of Dundee take a piece of ground from the farmers annually, plant, hoe, and take up their potatoes themselves ; and the exercise is considered to be salutary to those who are used to sedentarj^ employments. It was former- ly the custom, particularly among small farmers, to raise a quanti- ty of flax annually, which the females were employed in spinning during the winter months ; and the cloth when manufactured, and not used for household purposes, was sold, and constituted one of the items of profit or of rent The spinning-mills have abolished this practice, — the sound of the wheel is no longer heard in the far- mer's dwelling, — for this good reason, that the cloth can be bought at a cheaper rate than the former expense of spinning, which has been reduced from 2s. to 22d. per spindle. Females who formerly gained their livelihood by spinning, have now taken to weaving, and under certain restrictions, they do not suffer from the change of employment. There can be no doubt that our agriculture is susceptible of much improvement. The great evil under which this parish is now suffering, is the frequent repetition of the same crop on the same soil. There is a steady demand in Dundee for turnips, potatoes, and grass ; and these crops, particularly the grass, have become deficient from frequent repetition. Indeed clover is now so com- monly a failure, that tares are not unfrequently sown as a substi- tute. Turnips, potatoes, and sown grasses, have been introduced at a comparatively recent period. The appearance of the whole face of nature has thus been changed ; and the value of the pro* duce of the soil has increased to an extent that cannot be well con- ceived. December 1833, PARISH OF PANBRIDE. PRESBYTERY OF ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID TRAIL, D. D- MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries, — The name of the parish is evidently connected with St Bridget ; and it is more than probable that the prefix Pan is derived, not from the Latin word fanum^ a church, as has been supposed by some, but from the Celtic word pallin or bailing signifying a town ' or hamlet The historian Buchanan accordingly calls the parish Balbride, which signifies St Bride's town. The parish is fully more than five miles long in the direction of north-west to south-east, by about two broad. It is bounded by the sea on the south ; by the parishes of Barry and Monikie on the west; by Carmylie on the north; by Arbirlot on the north-east; and by a detached part of St Vigeans on the south-east. Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the parish and inmiediate neighbourhood is rather flat than hilly ; but there is a considerable declivity for some miles from the north to the south throughout the whole line of country between Dundee and Arbroath. The sea shore, which bounds the parish, is flat and very rocky, with a considerable accumulation of gravel along the margin of the water, among which a variety of pebbles is to be found fit for the lapidary. It is evident, from the state of the coast in this quarter, that formerly the ocean must have covered a great part of what is now dry and solid land; for along our shores a succession of banks may be traced, composed of sand and gravel; which must have been the boundaries of the sea at different and probably very widely separated periods. There are, indeed, a few partial inroads by the sea at various places ; but these are trifling, and must have been occasioned merely by the dashing of the waves against the softer banks during the storms of winter. 68 FORFARSHIRE. Throughout the parish the soil varies considerably : it is light and sandy on the coast : loam, and in some places approaching to clay in the middle : and moorish, with a till bottom in the northern extremity. Hydrography, — There is one mineral spring of the chalybeate kind in the parish, which might easily be formed into a well : but little attention is paid to it; and it has never been much frequent- ed, unless by persons in the immediate neighbourhood. Two small streams run through the parish, and unite about a mile from the sea. In various places along their course, these ri- vulets are bounded by pretty high rocks, from 25 to 50 feet, nearly perpendicular. Geology. — The range of the strata in the rocks above alluded to is from N. W. to S. E. The rocks in this place, as well as those on the sea-shore, are composed of soft sandstone, intermixed with masses of very hard compact limestone. These are very durable, and the weather seems to make no impression on them. Towards the head of the parish, within the woods of Panmure, there is a quarry of good hard freestone, which is fit for any purpose of ma- sonry, and of a fine colour. At a little distance, slates and pave- ment may also be got. It should be added, that the limestone is not in such quantities as to render it worth quarrying ; and that it is not pure, yielding only about 75 per cent. Botany, — The dpuble flowering Geum^ which I believe is a very rare plant in most parts of Scotland, I have sometimes met with on the banks of the rivulets which run through the parish. The greater part of the more showy wild flowers which formerly adorn- ed our fields have almost entirely disappeared. This is a proof that the soil is now better cultivated, and cleared of those plants and weeds which formed near half its produce about the middle of last century, except on a few fanns where the improved system of hus- bandry had been introduced. II. — Civil History. Eminent Persons. — The ancestors of Hector Boetius were Tor several generations proprietors of the barony of Panbride ; and that celebrated historian is generally supposed to have been born in this parish.* * About sixty years ago, there was found among some loose papers in the house of Panmure a short history of the county of Angus, written in elegant Latin, by Mr Edward, minister of Murrocs, containing both a geographical description of the PAXBUIDK. 69 One of the most ancient families of An^s is that of Panmure, to which the whole property of this parish belongs. Galfred de Maule appears to have held all the lands of Panmure by a charter from Edgar King of Scotland, signed and sealed in the year 1072. Parochial Registers. — These commence in the year 1693, and are regularly kept. Modem Buildings. — In the N. E. of the parish stands the spa- cious and massy house of Panmure, — the principal seat of the no- bleman to whom it belongs. It is built in an elevated situation, surroimded by extensive enclosures and plantations, and commands a fine prospect, especially to the south and east. — At a little distance, are still to be seen the vaults and foundations of the old castle of Panmure, long the residence of the Earls of that name. III. — Population. In 1801 the population amounted to 1583 1811 - - - 1412 1821 - - - 1275 1831 - - - 1268 The decrease has been owing to the removal of some villages, and to the uniting of a few small fanns into one. The average number of baptisms yearly for the last seven years is 32 ; of marriages, 13 ; of deaths, 22. The number of families in the parish is 300 ; whereof 88 are chiefly employed in agriculture ; 103 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft; and 109 not comprised in the two preceding classes. Character and Habits of the People. — The people in general are sober and moral in their habits ; and regular in their attendance on public ordinances. They are also, as might be expected, in- dustrious and frugal ; and are altogether a very respectable por- tion of the community. The ordinary food of the peasantry consists chiefly of potatoes, and of the various preparations of oatmeal ; with occasionally a little butcher-meat, generally pork, at dinner. Tea is in universal use, from the highest to the lowest On the whole, though many are liable to participate in the occasional depressions of trade, it may be stated that the people enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of society. eountyy and an account of every family of note belonging to it. lliis literary curio- aty, of which, after particular inquiry, no other copy could be found, was translated and published by Mr Traill, the Late minister of St Cyrus, in the year 1793. 70 FORFARSHIRE. IV, — Industry, Agriculture and Rural Economy. The quantity of land in the parish now in cultivation, and occasionally Acres, in tillage, is - - - - 4100 Uncultivated, In moor and natural pasture, - - 700 In wood, ... 600 1300 Capable of being cultivated with a profitable application of capital, - In undivided common, - - - . . Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants' wages may be stated at L. 11 per annum ; with 6| bolls meal rated at L, 6; and three choppins of milk for one-half of the year, and two for the other half, which may amount to L. 3. A certain quantity of potatoes, as may be agreed on, is frequently given ; and, if married, the ser- vants generally have a house and small garden in addition. La- bourers' wages per day in summer are Is. 8d. ; in winter Is. 3d. for good hands, and for ordinary hands. Is. Husbandry. — The improved system of husbandry is generally, almost imiversally adopted. The fields are well cultivated, and kept in good order. Draining and lime are the two great means of improvement in this quarter: Common dikes and thorn hedges, the usual fence. Common black cattle are best for this part of the country. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, so far as can be ascertained, is as fol- lows : — m 11,000 bolls of grain, at 25s. per boll, on an average of each kind, L. 13,750 425 acres of turnips, at L. 6, consumed on the farm, - 2,550 225 acres of potatoes, at L. 10 per acre, - - 2,250 1,000 acres of grass, from which is made into hay from 7500 to 8000 stones, say 7725, at 8d per stone, - . 257 10 L. 18,807 10 Flax, which some years ago was raised in considerable quanti- ties on almost every farm, is hardly to be seen in any part of the pa- rish. It may be added, that, of three farms consisting of 370 Scots acres, the average produce is 1300 bolls grain, 925 bolls potatoes, turnips in proportion, and 1000 stones of hay : 80 acres are in pas- ture. Fisheries. — At East and West Haven, fishing-boats are in con- stant operation. Each boats-crew (of which there are three at East Haven,,) pays 5s. 6d. as teind to the proprietor ; and the ground- rent for a dwelling-house is Is. 6d. At West Haven, the ground- PANBRIDE. 71 rent is 2s. 6d. ; and the boat's teind (for the privilege of fishing) payable by each of the three crews there, is 5s. 3d. In the proper season, which is between the beginning of Febru- ary and end of May, lobsters are caught in great quantities for the London market, and carried up alive in vessels fitted for the pur- pose with what are called wells, which freely admit the sea-water during their passage. Sea-weed is also put into the wells, on which the lobsters may feed. Such as are caught before the arrival of the smacks, which come along the coast every two weeks, are put into a large chest fixed among the rocks, within flood-mark, with their claws tied with small cord, so as to prevent their destroying one another; and in this state they remain until they reach the Thames. — Crabs are also got in abundance, but they are all disposed of in the neighbourhood.* — Cod, in winter, is often caught in great quantities, and salted in casks for exportation. Haddocks, like- wise, are abundant, and form the principal part of our fishery, fur- nishing an ample supply for the surrounding country, especially for Dundee and Forfar, where they find a ready market. Indeed, the fishery on this part of the coast is of great advantage to the whole neighbourhood, as it produces a very considerable supply of whole- some food for all classes of the inhabitants. Manufactures, — There is only one mill, — a flax-spinning one, in the parish. It is on a very limited scale ; but, limited as it is, it is quite sufficient to show the demoralizing effects which such esta- blishments have on those who are engaged in them. Hitherto, in these establishments a great proportion of the rising generation has been trained up in ignorance, profligacy, and vice, and afterwards sent abroad into the world to corrupt and contaminate all who come into contact with them. It is to be hoped that these abuses will now be corrected by legislative enactments. Navigation. — There are four vessels belonging to this parish j from 43 to 65 tons burden each. V. — Parochial Economy. Villages. — There are several villages in the parish ; but only two of considerable extent, — East and West Haven, about a mile distant from each other. The first contains 118 inhabitants; the other, with a small landward village adjoining it, 304. Means of Communication. — There is no built harbour at either • It may be worth recording, that a few years ago a lady in lliis neighbouihootl found half a guinea in the l>ody of a crab, after it was boiled and brought to table. 72 FOKFARSlllRE. of the villages above-mentioned ; but there is an open loading- place, where vessels of from 60 to 80 tons burden may deliver their cargoes, which are chiefly of coal and lime. During the sum- mer there is a considerable trade in this way ; but in winter it is entirely at a stand, as no ships could with safety put into so un- sheltered a situation. There is the convenience of a post-office at Muirdrum, a small village on the great line of road between Dundee and Arbroath; and a daily post by the mail-coach both to the north and south; be- sides three other public coaches regularly at difierent hours of the day, and carriei-s generally twice a-week to Dundee and Arbroath. Ecclesidstical State. — The church here is undoubtedly very old, though it is impossible to specify the date when it was built. It appears that the original form of the house was a cross. The arms to the south and east, as they first stood, were removed, and the one to the east was rebuilt in the year 1681. The external fabric is not so handsome and regular as might be wished, owing to the addition now noticed, and the great irregularity of the windows both in size and situation ; but within, it is in excellent repair, and even elegant In the year 1775, it was completely repaired. It accommodates nearly 600 sitters. The average number of communicants annually for the last twelve years is 508 ; and the church is in general well attended. The number of Seceders in the parish is 53 ; of Episcopalians, 5 ; of Independents, 2. The stipend is, of wheat, 18 b. 3 f. 3J lip. ; of barley, 78 b. 2 f. 1 p. ; of meal, 105 b. 2 f. 1 p. ; of money, L. 43, 15s. 5 Jd. ; and in lieu of pasture, L. 1, 13s. 4d. The teinds are now exhaust- ed ; and of course there is no allowance for communion elements. The total amount of the stipend, converted ta money, on an ave- rage of the last three years, is L. 245, 4s. 4d. a-year. The glebe consists of 4 acres, 1 rood, and some falls of good land. The manse was built in 1765; repaired in 1799; and it received a large addition in 1811. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, with excel- lent teachers. One of these is parochial, the teacher having a sa- lary of L. 34, 4s. 4d., and fees to the amount probably of L. 30 a-year. The other is merely for girls to be instructed in needle- work and English reading. But besides these, there is a small private school in the upper part of the parish, for the benefit of such as are too remote from the parochial school. There is also PAXBRIDE. 73 a Sabbath school regularly kept The means of elementary in- struction are thus sufficiently provided to the parish, and there are DO persons in the parish betwixt 6 and 15 years of age unable to read. Library. — There is a parish library, consisting ahnost entirely of religious publications. Poor. — The number of poor on the roll varies from twelve to eighteen ; and they are all maintained in their own houses. But besides these, there is a considerable number of householders in indigent circumstances, who receive each a boll of coals from the poors' funds. The poors* funds, bearing interest, amount only to L. 73 ; but a considerable sum arises from the mortcloth and hearse fees, and the rent of one of the galleries in the church, which belongs to the session ; and also from the back seats in the Panmure loft, which Lord Panmure has for some years past permitted to be let for behoof of the poor. The average yearly amount of coUections in the church for the last seven years is L. 37, lis. lO^d. There are no assessments for the ordinary poor. But there are three lunatic paupers connected with this parish, in different asylums, the expense of whose board is L. 50 ; of this sum the heritor pays one-half, and the tenants the other. Alehouses. — Of these there are five in this parish, and two of them might well be spared. It is, I think, the remark of Kotze- bue, in his Travels through Russia, that wherever he came to the neighbourhood of a public house, he uniformly found the morals of the people corrupted, and their character debased ; and perhaps the same observation will hold good in every part of the world, where such haunts of idleness and profligacy are to be met with. December 1833. PARISH OF ARBROATH. PRESBYTERY OF ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. GEORGE GLEIG, MINISTER.* THE REV. WILLIAM STEVENSON, ASSISTANT AND SUCCESSOR. THE REV. JOHN COOPER, ASSISTANT. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries. — The ancient name of the parish was Aberbrothock, of which Arbroath is a corruption. Amongst the peasantry in many parts of the counties of Forfar and Kincardine, it is pronounced Arbroad. The original name is descriptive of the situation at the mouth of the Brothock, a small river, which here discharges itself into the German Ocean, and which, in the Gaelic language, is said to signify the muddy stream. The parish is about three miles in length, varying in breadth from one to ten furlongs. Its extent may be estimated at 820 English acres, and in shape it may be said to bear some resem- blance to a boot. Topographicai Appearances. — Within the limits thus described, there is nothing approaching in elevation to a hill. The ground rises gradually as it recedes from the shore, till at the farther ex- tremity of the parish it attains to a height of about 160 feet above the level of the sea. The extent of coast is nearly a mile and a-half. The shore is flat, with a rocky bottom, and forms the ter- mination of the level coast, which extends eastward from the mouth of the river Tay. In the adjoining parish of St Vigeans, it as- sumes a very bold appearance, presenting a line of elevated rocks, with numerous caves and fissures. Hydrography. — It may be noticed that there is a spring near the west end of the town of a chalybeate nature, and which, although now in a great measure overlooked, was at one time much resorted • This Account has been drawn up by the Rev. Thomas Doig» Minister of Tor- ryburn, formerly Assistant in this parish. ARBROATH. 75 to. About two miles from the town there was formerly a small lake, which has been drained these many years. It still retains the name of Bishop's Loch. The only stream in the parish, with the exception of a small burn which falls into it, is the Brothock. Unless when flooded after rain, it discharges a very inconsiderable quantity of water into the sea. It takes its rise in the parish of St Vigeans, and, after a course of about six miles, enters the pa- rish of Arbroath, through which it flows about a quarter of a mile, when it falls into the ocean. As the source whence the stream is gathered which drives a considerable number of spinning-mills, it is of no little value to the place. Geology and Mineralogy. — The country part of the parish be- ing a narrow strip of land, is distinguished by no peculiarity under this head which may not be described with more propriety in the account of the adjoining parishes of Arbirlot and St Vigeans. At the farther eixtremity, where the ground is from 140 to 160 feet above the level of the sea, the soil is thin, with a clay bottom ; nearer the town of Arbroath it is black loam ; and along the coast it is light and sandy. Zoology. — The zoologist will find none of the more rare species of animals in the parish. In the neighbouring ocean is to be had an abundant supply of fish, consisting chiefly of the haddock, the cod, and the flounder, with herring and mackerel in their season. Stake-nets were erected a few years ago, in the hope of establish- ing a salmon fishery, but the success has not been such as to de- fray the expense. Shell-fish, viz. crabs and lobsters, are procured in great plenty. II. — Civil History. Illustrative of this department, there do not appear to be any ancient or modern accounts of the parish in print or manuscript, with the exception of a series of brief notices in the Arbroath Ma- gazine, — a publication which was begun and ended in the year 1800. The only other historical or descriptive statements regarding Ar- broath, are those to be met with in works which refer to Scotland in general. A " Description of the Abbey of Arbroath, by James Thomson," was published at Arbroath in 1829, which contains a good deal of interesting, and, seemingly, correct, information, in a condensed form. Historical Events. — In ancient times, one of the most important of these was the celebrated Assembly of the Estates of Scotland, 76 FORFARSHIRE. held in the Abbey in 1320, when a declaration was drawn up and signed, asserting the independence of the Scottish Church and kingdom, in language to which the Roman pontiff was not much accustomed in these days. In 1445, in consequence of a dispute about the election of a bailie of regality, a battle was fought near the town between the families of Lindsay and Ogilvie, in which the leaders of both houses fell, with about 500 of their followers. The next event of importance known to have taken place was the destruction of the buildings of the Abbey in the sixteenth century. The particulars have not been fully ascertained ; only, the demo- lition appears to have taken place before the Reformation. Tra- dition says, it was accomplished by Ochterlony of Kelly, a pro- prietor in the neighbourhood, who had quarrelled with the monks, and had recourse to this method of avenging himself. In more recent times the town acquired a sort of notoriety, in consequence of a visit from one Captain Fall, commander of a French privateer, who appeared in sight with his vessel on the 23d May 1781, and commenced firing on the place. Having thus exhibited a speci- men of his intentions, he sent several of his men, with a flag of truce, on shore, demanding L. 30,000 Sterling as the ransom of the town, and six of the principal inhabitants as hostages till the siun should be paid. Considerable alarm followed. But at last, after a variety of proposals had been made, a few of the townsmen presented themselves on the beach with such fire-arms as could be most readily procured, and bade defiance to the threats of the privateer. After expending some more of his shot during the night, and finding next morning that he had done little or no damage, the captain made off in all haste, and found an oppor- tunity of gratifying his desire of plunder, by making prizes of se- veral sloops that fell in his way. A battery was afterwards erected in front of the harbour as a means of defence, but was dismantled after the last general peace. Maps^ Plans. — No separate map of the parish is known to exist. A plan of the town, including the suburbs in the parish of St Vi- geans, was drawn, and published by Wood in 1822. Letters^ Papers^ Sfc. — Of these, in the possession of resident in- dividuals, and tending to illustrate the biography, history, or anti- quities of the parish, there appear to be none. The ancient re- cords of the burgh have been lost. Several papers, however, re- lating to the Abbey of Arbroath, which are the property of Lord ARimOATII. 77 Panmure, have of late been intrusted to the care of the ma^strates and are preserved among the existing records of the town. Amongst the documents in the possession of the kirk-session is a roll, 1)eau- tifully written on parchment, dated 1445, exhibiting a statement of the dues payable from several crofts in the town and its immediate vicinity, for upholding lights in the Lady Chapel, which appears to have stood near to the present harbour. In this document the following streets and crofts are enumerated, viz. Neugate, Seygate, Keumarcatgate, Marcatgate, Grjmysby, Mylgate, Lortburngjite, Appylgate, Ratonraw, and Cobgate. These are all now built upon as streets, with the exception of Newgate, which is only partially occupied with houses. Grimsby was built upon during the latter part of the last century. To what extent the other places men- tioned in the roll were built upon in the fifteenth centur\', we have no means of determining. In ancient times, Cobgate was the name given to that part of the High Street which is below, and Raton- raw to that part of it which is above, the present parish church. Eminent Characters. — We are not aware of any distinguished warrior, statesman, or author, connected with the parish, either by birth or residence. It is the burial-place, however, of one of the kings of Scotland ; William the Lion having been interred in the Abbev, which he founded. Ijond-cvofners. — The superiority of the property is vested in the corporation of Arbroath. Parochial Registers. — These consist of the kirk-session minutes, whose earliest date is 1669 ; and of the records of births and bap- tisms, and of marriage-contracts and marriages, which commence in 1659. They are in general in a good state of preservation. The entries of marriages are defective in 1659, 1661, 1696, 1697, 169B, and 1700; and of births and baptisms in 1660, 1661, 1696, 1697, 1698, 1699, and 1700; and the volume or volumes contain- ing both, from 1735 to 1748 inclusive, have been lost. There is no record of the proceedings of the kirk-session from 1684 to 1732, nor from 1735 to 174a Antiquities. — Under the head of antiquities Arbroath has been long celebrated for the ruins of its abbey. This edifice was founded by King William the Lion in T178, and dedicated to the memory of Thomas a Beckct, Archbishop of Canterbury. The precincts of the abbey were inclosed with a stone wall from 20 to 24 feet in height; and formed an area 1150 feet in length from 78 FORFARSHIRE. north to south, and in breadth 706 feet at the north, and 484 at the south end. At the north-west comer there is a tower, still entire, 24 feet square and 70 feet high, formerly used as the Re- gality prison. The ground-flat is now converted into a butcher's shop. Another tower, somewhat smaller, stood at the south-west corner of the inclosure ; which, with the addition of a slated spire, served for many years as a steeple to the present parish church. Having become ruinous, it was taken down in 1830, and a remark- ably handsome spire, 152 feet in height, has been erected in its place. The main entry to the area was by a stately porch on the north side. If it had not been that, a few years ago, the vaulting was taken down under an apprehension of insecurity, this would have been entire. For defence it appears to have been furnished with a portcullis, which now forms the armorial bearings of the town of Arbroath. There was another entry, but far inferior in architectural display, at the south-east corner, known by the name of the Damgate, A considerable portion of the north side of the inclosure was occupied by the abbey church. The dimensions of this building were, — length, 270 feet; length of transept, 132 feet; of the nave, 148 feet; and of the choir, 76 J feet; breadth of transept, 45 J feet; of the central aisle, 35 feet; and of each of the side aisles, 16 J feet From marks, visible on the walls, the height from the pavement to the roof appears to have been 67 feet The building is now in a state of ruin. All that remains is the south wall, with part of the east and west ends. A por- tion of the two western towers still exists in a very mutilated condition. The great entrance at the west end of the church is entire, with indications of a circular window above. A similar window, on a smaller scale, is to be seen in the upper part of the wall of the south transept The other windows which remain* are in the early-pointed or lancet-shaped style. The pillars which supported the roof of the church are all demolished ; but their foundations may be traced without difficulty. Adjoining to the south transept, on the east, is a building, said to have been the charter-house of the abbey. It consists of two vaulted apart- ments, the one above the other, in a state of good repair. Imme- diately in front of this, and of the south transept, appear to have been the cloisters ; and at a short distance from the south wall of the nave, are the remains of the abbot's house, which is still inha- bited as a private mansion. On the whole, the buildings, although, 4 ARBROATH. 79 when entire, they must have had an imposing aspect, were infe- rior, in point of magnificence, to some others of which Scotland could boast Little is known respecting the historj^ of the abbey, although it was much celebrated in its day. The monks were brought from Kelso, and were of the Tyronensian order. The abbot exercised episcopal jurisdiction within his precincts, and had a seat in Parliament Of those invested with this dignity, two may be mentioned as distinguished, — Gawin Douglas, who was afterwards bishop of Dunkeld; and Cardinal Beaton, who held this along with his other dignities, and who appears, during his incum- bency, to have alienated part of the property of the abbey. After the Reformation, the revenues and unalienated possessions of this wealthy estabUshment were erected into a temporal lordship in fa- vour of Lord Claude Hamilton, third son of the Duke of Chatel- herault. Lord Arbroath is one of the present titles of the Duke of Hamilton. These revenues afterwards came to the Earl of Dysart, from whom Patrick, first Earl of Panmure, in 1642, pur- chased them, including the patronage of thirty-four parish churches. In Thomson's account of the abbey the following statements are given of the revenues at the time of the reformation. " At the visitation of the monasteries in the years 1561 and 1562, by the commissioners appointed by the privy-council, the revenues of this establishment, as registered in the various books of the commis- sioners, were found in money and in kind to be : — 1*^, By the Re- gister of the Collectors of the third of the ecclesiastical benefices, L. 2483, 5s. Wheat, - 26 Chalders. 9 Bolls. 1 Firlots. Pecks Bear, . 118 7 2 Meal, . 168 8 2 Oats, 27 10 3 2i Salmon, 1 Last, 3 Barrels. 2d^ By the Register of Assumptions of the whole benefices, L.2553, 14s. ^licat, - 3 Chalders. 3 Bolls. 3 Firlots. 2 Pecks. Bear, - 143 9 2 Meal, - 196 9 2 Oats, - 27 11 Salmon, 3 Lasts, 1 Barrel. Omitted, capons, grassums, dawikis^ and all other services and ffmall duties, as also the dependent churches of Abernethy, Moni- t 80 FOKFARSHIRE. fieth, and Tannadice." A Latin rent roll in the Book of Assump- tions, which was returned soon after 1561, gives, in addition to the salmon, three barrels o{ glyssort (grilses), and the valuation of the churches of Abernethy, Tannadice, and Monifieth, thus : — Aber- nethy, L.273; Tannadice, L.237, 5$. 4d. ; Monifieth, wheat, 4 ch. 12 bolls; bear, 12 ch. 9 bolls; meal, 15 ch. 10 bolls. The ■ books, both of surplus and annexation of the third of the ecclesias- tical benefices, give L.2594 as the money revenue; and in all the other articles they agree with the registers of the collectors and of assumptions, except in the single article salmon. In, 1530, the order issued for the yearly provision for the abbey was, to purchase 800 wedders, 180 oxen, 11 barrels of salmon, 1200 dried cod fish, 82 chalders of malt, 30 o'f wheat, and 40 of meal, in addition to the rent in kind paid by the tenants. This may seem extraordi- nary, inasmuch as the number of monks was only twenty-five. But it is accounted for when we consider that visitors of all ranks, in- cluding at times the king himself, with a retinue of nobles, were gratuitously entertained in such establishments. The churches, the patronage of which belonged to the abbey, were Arbroath, Ar- birlot, Panbride, Lunan, CongschoUis, now Inverkeillor, Inver- keillor or St Murdoch's, Monikie, Murroes, Mains, Monifieth, Dunnichen, Clova, Ruthven, Glammis, Kirriemuir, Kingoldnim, Newtyle, Garvock, Dunivaig, Abernethy in Stratheme, Inverness, Mornack or Auchterarder, BanflF, Gamry, Langley, Guild, Kin- gennie, Banchory or Trinity, Bethlehem or Bethelney, Forgue, Ty- rie, Tarves, Nigg, and Fetterangus. In the year 1815, the Barons of Exchequer ordered the ruins of the abbey to be so far repaired as to preserve them from total dilapidation. On this occasion the rubbish was removed, and a portion of the pavement of the church again exposed to view. A search was also made with a view to discover, if possible, the tomb of the royal founder. The lid of a stone coffin was found, with the mutilated figure of a man in alto relievo. But no evident tokens of King William's sepulchre ap- peared, although, since that time, the old wily sexton has been ac- customed to exhibit to credulous visitors a few mouldering bones in a wooden box as those of the monarch ; — and, although bone af- ter bone has been abstracted, new ones have always been found to supply their place. Modem Buildings. — Dedicated to the purposes of religion, the most conspicuous of these are the parish church and chapel of ease. There is nothing, however, worthy of remark in the appear- 3 ARBROATH. 81 ance of either. Only it deserves to be noticed that the spire of the church, which was rebuilt in 1831, is one of the most elegant structures of the kind to be seen in Scotland, and reflects much credit od the architect, Mr Henderson of Edinburgh. It is in what is commonly designated the Gothic style, and was erected at the expense of L#.1300, a considerable part of which was raised by voluntary subscription. The Episcopal chapel has a plain exterior, but is neatly fitted up within. The dissenting meeting-houses are of a very homely aspect, but most of them, nevertheless, are groan- ing under a load of debt The Town-house is a handsome build- ing, erected in 1806. Besides the great hall, which is an elegant room, it contains an office for the use of the town-clerk, and apart- ments for the meeting of the town-council and the small-debt court In the upper part of the building is the prison, which is now made secure, and is kept in excellent order. The Guild-hall is a plain unostentatious edifice. The Trades-hall was erected in 1814, at an expense, the weight of which is still felt by the incorpora- tions. The academy, built partly by private sub^ription in 1821, has a chaste appearance.* In front is an excellent play- ground for the scholars. Amongst the public buildings in the pa- rish may be mentioned the Signal-tower for communicating with the Bell-Rock light-house, which is twelve miles distant, on a rock in the ocean. Several of these structures are built of stone brought from the shores of the Firth of Forth, whilst others are composed of a red sandstone from quarries in the immediate neighbourhood. Of this last kind of stone most of the houses in Arbroath are built The colour, however, does not appear to be a favourite one, as many of the proprietors have lately painted the outside of their houses, so as to give them the appearance of a light gray. The town, as a whole, cannot be called handsome. Part of the High Street looks well ; but most of the other streets are narrow. And although elegant houses are to be met with in most quarters of the town, the generality have a very ordinary appearance ; and, in the cross streets, many of the houses are only one storey in height III. — Population. The registers of marriages and baptisms furnish the only means by which an estimate may be formed of the population of the parish in ancient times. Taking these as data, the number of in- habitants may be calculated to have been 1500 about the time of * Tlie building of the Academy cost L. 1600. FORFAR. F 82 • FORFARSHIRE. the Restoration,^ in the year 1660. At the Revolution, in 1688, the number appears to have been 1400. In 1707, the year of the Union, it had apparentlyrisen to 2000 ; and in 1715, the year of the first RebeUion, to 2300. As the result of actual enumera- tion, the population is stated to have been 2098 in the year 1755 ; 3943 in 1776 ; and 4676 in 1792. The following are the returns which have been made since the conmiencement of the present century. In 1801, 2057 Males. 2886 Females. 4943 in all. 1811, . . 2267 3013 52B0 1821, ■ . 2694 3315 6009 182d, . . 2927 3550 6477 1831, . 3203 3740 6943 In the enumerations of 1801 and 1811, resident seamen are not included. In the three subsequent enumerations they are in- cluded. The increase which the returns successively exhibit may be ascribed chiefly to the establishment and extension of the staple manufactui:e of the place. Of the population, as above stated, nearly the whole must be viewed as belonging to that part of the town of Arbroath which is situated within the parish. Divided into town andxountry, the population at the following periods may be stated thus : — In 1792, 4545 Town. 131 Country. 1801, 4763 180 181 r. 5068 J212 1821, 5751 258 1823, 6217 260 1831, 6624 319 The' yearly average of births recorded during the last seven years is 197 ; to which may be added 20 as the average of those not recorded, making in all an average of 217 births yearly, or 1 to 32 of the existing population. For the same period, the year- ly average of marriage-contracts, where both parties resided in the parish, was 39f ; where the man only resided, \S\ ; and where the woman only was resident, 15^. It is only since the beginning of the year 1828 that a register of burials has been accurately kept. During a period of four years from that date, there have been interred in the church-yard of Arbroath, on an average each year, 140^ persons who died in the parish ; 73^ who died in the suburbs of the town, in St Vigeans' parish ; 7 9 who died in the country part of the parish of St Vigeans ; and 3 who died else- where. Probably 10 persons may die annually in the parish of 3 ARBROATH. 83 Arbroath, who are interred elsewhere. This would exhibit 150 deaths yearly in the parish, or 1 out o{ 46 of the existing popu- lation* Ages of the persons interred. Ages. 1— 2 2— 5 6—10 10—15 15—20 ao— 40 - Persons. 150 65 75 47 28 di 66 55 Ages. Persons. Ages. Persons. 40—50 - 49 91-3 50-60 - 48 92 - 1 * 60—65 - 48 94-2 65—70 - 52 95-1 70—75 - 47 98-1 75—80 - 45 99-1 80—85 - 46 Unknown, 11 85—90 - 22 Total, 898 The foIIowiDg is a statement of the diseases, of which the per- lons above enumerated are understood to have died. The state- ment depends altogether on the report of the relatives or friends of the deceased, and has therefore no pretensions to scientific ac- curacy; yet, as it may not be wholly useless, it is here exhibited. Consumption, - 198 Age and decay, 184 Water in the bei^, 50 Hooping-cough, - 49 SdU-bom, - 45 Bowel complaint, - 44 Croup, - - 41 Ferer, - - 40 Inflammation, - 31 Accidents, viz. killed, drowned, scalded, 28 Apoplexy and paralysis, 23 Bowel-hive, - 22 Dropsy, - - 17 Inward complaint, 17 Child-birth, - 16 Asthma, . . 15 Smdl-pox, - 15 MefialeSf - 13 Cramp, - - 11 Teething, - 10 Cancer, - 4 Jaundice, - 3 Complaint in the head, 3 Hysterical fits, - 2 Gravel, - - 2 Mortification, - 3 Stomach complaint, 2 Vomiting of blood, 2 Sore throat. Exposure to cold, . White-swelling, Broken I^, Wound in the 1^, Untimely birth, Suicide, - Jj^ Not suted, - i Total, . 898 The following is a tabular view of the population in 1831, above 20 years of age, exhibiting the number of persons who are single, married, and widowed. Males. Females. Total. , Widowers Ages. Single. Married. Widowers. Single Married. Widowi Single. Married. and Widows. 20-^.30 339 176 1 404 250 11 741 426 12 30—40 95 298 11 162 336 37 267 634 48 40—45 19 97 4 42 109 16 61 206 20 45—50 11 130 8 23 102 38 34 232 46 above 50 41 331 84 128 254 308 169 1262 565 392 1 Total 505 1032 108 757 1051 410 2083 518 N. R — Of the population under twenty years of age there are four males and four females married, and one female a widow. *'" FQBFABSHIRE. Tabular view of the number of families and bouses. Funiltes, Inhabited homes. Uninhabited bouies, Houwe building, The following is a tabular view of the employments of tlie whole population of the parish of Arbroath.* MJ,* l.-™al« T...»1 1 ai. lull '"'" 'J(P. 2o.|Toui 411 ifi .V 13 a ]>) 53 id 75 47J IH, m; :iv 17; ,-1* lllfi 14.^ I.V w IHT 771 17. 941 Wholesale, cspitsllsu. banlcra, ) 1.' i-jj ■ji l»l 1! (4. » 'f IH X .s; i I2f Shi|.m«.er» -nd n,Brinfr«, . (fi 'JK UK 67 28! J );.i v.v, 15- I02 25< All otlier pcTsoni, Tot«l at) lltUI l'27!i I4W laia ^(Jl 1587 2399 39B( i64a 1556 »203 »22() 152( 1740 SB65307e G94fl It may be here remarked, that the parish can boast of no family of noble blood ; and that almost all depend, more or less, on some line of business as a means of subsistence. The number of pro- prietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, who are resident in the parish, and have property within the same, is two; and even these are only feuars from the corporation of Arbroath. The people do not appear to be remarkable for any peculiarity in strength, size, or complexion, or other personal quality. As is common in most places, the appearance of a man indicates in some measure the trade or occupation which he follows ; and, perhaps, a degree of huskiness in the voice may be viewed as characteristic of the females employed at spinning-mills. In the census of 1631, 9 males and 15 females were returned as insane or Jatnout ; 2 males and 3 females as blind ; and 1 male and 3 females as deaf and dumb. Langiiage, Habits, and Genial Character of the Pe^Ie. — The language generally spoken is the Forfarshire dialect of the Scot- tish tongue, with a peculiarity of accent distinct from that which is observable in the neighbouring towns of Dundee and Montrose. Amongst the genteeler classes, however, correct pronunciation is * On ttaii nibject, w tabular detkila vitl be found in the original ARBROATH. 85 much more attended to than it was thirty or forty years ago. The shibboleth, by which a native of Arbroath may be detected most readily, is his pronunciation of any word in which the letters o and i are found in conjunction, as in the words otV, spoils anoint^ pointy &C. It is impossible to exhibit on paper the sound which a na- tive of Arbroath gives to these words; but a stranger who has once heard it, will never forget it In regard to the general habits of the population, if it be asked whether the working-classes are cleanly or otherwise, the reply must be in the affirmative, when compared with the appearance of the same classes in some of the larger towns. And if the question be put, whether the people in general enjoy, in a reasonable de- gree, the comforts and advantages of society, it may be stated, that most of the old men and women belonging to the class of operatives are very poor, in consequence of the difficulty of finding employment in that particular department of work, viz. winding yarn, and spinning at the wheel, by which they were enabled, some years ago, to earn a living. Many also in the same class, who have not passed the vigour of mature age, are in very straitened circumstances, — especially weavers, whose wages are extremely low. This is particularly the case where there is a family of young children who have not arrived at an age to be able to do any thing for themselves. In a great many, however, of those cases where extreme poverty is observable, the people are the main cause of their own wretchedness. The head of the family frequents the tippling-house, where he spends no inconsiderable portion of his earnings ; and thus the wife and children are left in misery. In connection with this, and as accounting for much of the prevailing poverty, it may be noticed, that comparatively few young men or women in the operative class, while they remain unmarried, ever think of saving any part of their wages ; and that most of them enter into the married state without any previous provision for the probable expenses even of a humble family establishment. Nine-« tenths of the distress to be found in Arbroath may be traced to these sources. And if potatoes, with a sprinkling of salt, have in many instances been almost the only species of food attainable in families, it becomes a serious question, involving a high moral re- sponsibility, how far absence from the tippling-house, combined with previous habits of economy, might have elevated such fami- lies above the necessity of subsisting on such scanty fare. The evil, however, exists already ; and it is no easy matter to cure it. \ 86 FORFARSHIRE. especially as a great majority of the sufferers seem to think, or at least wish it to be understood, that they are not themselves blame^ able. All their evils, they conceive, are to be ascribed to the go- vernment of the country ; and they look, with a delusive hope, to a reformed parliament as a cure for their every sorrow ! At the same time, it is not to be conceived that these apparently condem- natory remarks are universally applicable. Amongst the operative class of society in Arbroath, we have found a numerous body of men and women whose habits are alike industrious and frugal, — who are exemplary in a discharge of the duties of morality and re- ligion, — and have evinced a commendable patience in the endur- ance of that adversity which may have fallen to their lot Not a little of the theological attainment. Christian practice, and evan- gelical zeal existing in the parish, is to be found in this rank of life. Several of the most enlightened and efficient of the Sabbath- school teachers in the place belong to the same class ; and the ex- ample they have given of a well-ordered conversation has been blessed to many around them. The state of society in Arbroath has, we believe, been affected considerably by the great number of bankruptcies which took place in the year 1826. In that memorable year several of the most in- dustrious and honest men in the town, who had realized what was to them an ample fortune, were ruined ; but, on the other hand, many of the failures were altogether inexcusable, — the bankrupts having scarcely ever had a penny which they could legally call their own. Not a few of this latter class have been driven, appa- rently for ever, from the circle in which they once affected to move, but into which they ought never to have been admitted. In conse- quence, both the commercial and the moral atmosphere of the town have been in some degree purified. These would-be-gentlemen have shrunk back to their original obscurity; or, if any of them are still occasionally heard of, it is only as the rallying point of local excitement amongst the revolutionary and ill-doing portion of the conununity, or as acknowledged superiors in the revelries of the pot-house. The cause of religion has gained not a little by the fall of the class of persons now adverted to. In the day of their glory, all that wore the aspect of genuine piety or Christian zeal was avowedly the object of their scorn ; and their vulgar slang was obtruded officiously wherever they had an opportunity of pre- senting themselves. But their unhallowed influence's now hap- pily at an end. 4 ARBROATH. ft? As illustrative of the general character of the population, it is worthy of notice, that, considering the limited extent of means, subscriptions for any public or benevolent purpose, which of late have been frequent, have, in almost every instance, met with dis- tinguished success. In proof, also, of an improved tone of senti- ment, it may be observed, that the smuggling of gin from the con- tinent, which, thirty or forty years ago, was in such repute as to enable smugglers from the coast of Kent to aspire after matrimo- nial alliances with respectable families in the town, would now sub- ject the man who was known to engage in traffic of this kind to pubUc scorn. One great source of demoralization in large towns has not yet found a place in Arbroath, viz. pawn-hroking establishments ; — al- though we regret to be under the necessity of stating, that in some of the low public houses, articles of wearing apparel, and even bed- clothes, are taken as a pledge for payment of the liquor consumed. From the foregoing remarks it will be seen, that^ as is the case in other communities of the same extent, there is a mixture of good and evil in the society of Arbroath; — whilst some of the particulars here noticed may serve to indicate where and how the application of moral means may be used with a view to the cure of existing evils. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — The whole of the land in the parish is in a state of cultivation ; and the only portion of it appa- rently which has never been under the plough, is a common of twenty-six acres, which is in pasture. The ordinary rotation of crops is, \8t^ grass ; 2cf, oats ; 3 made of the Bell-Rock Light-House, — 1\\\ ostablisluuont of int^timable l>enefit to the east coast of SiHMland in gtMioral. In pursuance of an act of Parliament pass- otl in 1800, o)H^rations with a \iow to this important erection wort^ conuuonotHl in 1807. The buildii^ was finished in Octo- Iwr 1810; and tho light exhibiteil for the first tinH» on the even- ing of Kobnmry 1% 181 K l>uriug the progress of the works, a floating light was kept up in a vessel moonnl at a short distance from the place. The light-house is erected on a rock in the oceaiH distant abinit twelve miles frvnn Arbroath, and thirtv from 4 ARBROATH. 93 St Abb's Head* When the tides are neap, the rock is scarcely uncovered at low water. But at spring tides, when the ebb is great- est, that part of the rock which is exposed to view at low water, measures about 427 feet in length by 230 feet in breadth ; and at this state of the tide, its average heidjfht above the surface of the sea may be stated at four feet. From the higher part of the rock a reef extends, in a south-western direction, about 1000 feet At high water the rock is wholly covered, to the depth of from ten to twelve feet. The light-house is of a circular form. The two first courses of the masonry are sunk into the rock ; and the stones of all the courses are of dove-tailed work. The ground-course is 42 feet in diameter ; and the building gradually diminishes, till, as it rises to the top of the parapet wall of the light-room, it is only 13 feet in diameter. The total height of the masonry is 100 feet ; but, including the light-room, the height is 115 feet. From the foundation, the edifice is solid to the height of 30 feet. Here is the entry, to which there is an ascent by means of a rope-ladder with wooden steps. At the door the walls are seven feet thick ; but gradually diminish, till, at the parapet wall of the light, the thickness is only one foot. The light-room, which is 15 feet in height by 12 in breadth, is of an octagonal form. The windows have cast-iron frames, with plates of polished glass a quarter of an inch thick. The light, which in clear weather is visible at sea at the distance of eighteen miles, is from oil, with argand burners placed in the focus of silver-plated reflectors, of the form of a pa- raboUc curve, and of the diameter of two feet The light revolves, turning on its axis once in six minutes, in the course of which, a bright and a dark-red light are alternately exhibited. Two large belL^ attached to the light-house are tolled in foggy weather, by means of the machinery which moves the lights. At Arbroath a suit of buildings has been erected, where each light-keeper has three apartments for the accommodation of his family. Three of the light-keepers are always at the light-house, where they remain six weeks at a time, after which they are a fortnight on shore with their families. Connected with the apartments for their accom- modation, a signal-tower has been erected, about fifty feet in height, to communicate with the keepers at the rock. The total expense of this magnificent and important erection was about L.60,000. Ecclesiastical State. — The parishes of Arbroath and St Vigeans were originally one ; and both names seem to have been applied indiscriminately. The disjunction appears to have taken place 94 FORFARSHIRE. soon after the Reformation. At first the parish was viewed as con- sisting only of the bui^h ; but afterwards, the grounds inclosed within the walls of the abbey garden, with the croft of Barn-green, were also considered as belonging to it The parish church is si- tuated near the centre of that part of the town which is on the east side of the Brothock. There are no means, apparently, of ascer- taining the date of its foundation. In the year 1764, it was con- siderably enlarged by removing the south wall eight feet back, and by adding to the accommodation in the aisle on the north side of the church. In each end, and in the aisle, there is a double tier of galleries. By recent measurement, it has been found to contain 1412 sittings, allowing eighteen inches to each. Some of the seats in the galleries are very inconvenient, being so near to the ceiling that it is difficult for a man of ordinary size to stand in them up- right. There are no free seats for the poor ; the whole being the property either of individuals, or of corporate bodies, who let, ge- nerally to the highest bidder, the sittings not required for their own immediate use. This has often proved a very serious evil, and has been justly complained of. Tlie minister of the parish has neither manse nor glebe. In the year 1701, the arable ground and grass within the abbey gar- den (which had been bestowed on the Bishop of Brechin during the reign of protestant episcopacy, and had reverted to the Crown at the Revolution,) were granted in lease-hold to Mr Fergusson, then minister of Aberbrothock, in aid of his stipend. But after his death, the magistrates petitioned for a lease of the said grounds, which was granted to them in 1737. And again, in 1753, they applied for, and obtained a grant of them in perpetuity for pay- ment of an annual feu-duty of L. 8 Sterling. All that was assigned to the minister in lieu of the abbot's house and garden was the yearly sum of L. 4, 8s. lid. Sterling, in name of house-rent. The first notice of the stipend of the minister of Arbroath, of which we are aware, is that appended to Dr M*Crie's Life of the celebrated Andrew Melville. His brother, James Melville, appears to have been minister of this parish, — probably its first incumbent In the year 1591, Thomas Ramsay, in Kirktown, bound himself " to pay to the richt worchipfull Mr James Melvill, minister of Aberbrothock, 4 bolls bier, wt. ane peck to the boll, and twa bolls aitmaill wt. the cheritie, guid and sufficient stuff" — the mail to be for the sd. Mr James awin acting, all guid and fyne as ony gentill man sail eat in the country adjacent about him ; — or fail- ARBROATH. 95 zeing delivery, to pay for every boll 4 lib.' of money." — (Register of Contracts of the Commissariot of St Andrews.) — " He was alive in March 1596, when he obtained decreet against John Richard- son, for the few farme of the kirk-lands of Aberbrothock, assigned to him by the Lords of Counsel, viz. 2 bolls wheat, 28 bolls bear, and 20 bolls aitmeal." The stipend of Arbroath is stated by Playfair in his Description of Scotland, to have amounted in 1755 to L. 71, 18s. OJd. In the Statistical Account of the parish, writ- ten in 1792, it is said to have consisted of 6 b. of wheat; 22 b., 2 f. 3 p. and 1 lip. of barley ; 23 b. 2 f. and 2 p. of meal ; and L. 54, 8s. lOd., including the rent for the church-yard grass, but not including L. 4, 3s. 4d. for communion elements, and L. 4, 8s. 1 Id. for house-rent It has since been augmented, and now consists of wheat) 6 b. ; meal, 69 b. 1 f. 3 p. and 1 1 lip. ; and barley, 68 b. 2 f. and 2 J lip. ; besides L. 72, 15s.; a teind of fish yielding L. 6 ; and L. 4, 8s. 1 Id. for house-rent* There is also a permanent assistant minister in the parish, who officiates as a colleague, «nd has the charge of one of the two dis« tricts into which the parish is divided. His stipend arises partly from the proceeds of an endowment of L. 790, the commencement of which was a bequest of L. 565 by a Convener Mill in 1776. The scanty income which this could afford was made up by the people, at first to L. 60, and afterwards to L. 60 or L. 70. A large portion of the emoluments of the session clerkship has since been added, and the sum given by the people greatly increased ; so that, during the last year of the incumbency of the writer of this, the proceeds amounted to L. 180. The patronage of the parish belonged formerly to the Earl of Panmure, but was forfeited to the Crown in 1715. The patronage of the office of assistant-minister of the parish is vested in the kirk- session. The population of the parish having greatly increased, a chapel of ease was erected in 1797, in the north-east comer of the abbey grounds, under the name of the Abbey Chapel. It accommodates 1268 persons, allowing eighteen inches to each sitter. As in the parish church, so here also the seats are private property. No parochial district is assigned to the minister, which we regard as a great evil. But he may dispense the ordinance of the Lord's supper, and baptize the children of those parishioners who are * The allowance for communion elements is L. 8, 6s. 8d. ; and the grass of the church-yard yields annually L. 4, lOs. 96 FORFARSHIRE. members of the Established church, provided they are sitters in the chapeL His stipend is L. 102, arising from a rate imposed on the seats or pews, according to their valuation at the time when the chapel was built. The patronage is vested in those of the proprietors of pews who are members of the Established church. But it is not necessary, in order to qualify a proprietor to vote, that he should be a sitter in the chapel. In fact, it cannot be said that the congregation have the choice of their pastor. By the constitution it is provided, that a majority of the committee of management must be members of the kirk-session of the parish. * Arbroath is the seat of a presbytery, consisting of eleven pa- rishes, within the bounds of the synod of Angus and Meams. From the presbytery, two ministers and a ruling elder are sent to the General Assembly of Church of Scotland. As might be expected, there are several dissenting meeting- houses, viz. one Episcopal, containing 381 sittings ; two belong- ing to the United Secession Synod, the first of which has accom- modation for 780, and the latter for 600 sitters ; one Relief, seat^ ed for 400 ; and one Congregational or Independent, with 400 sittings ; besides smaller places of meeting for Glassites, Bereans, and Baptists. The church accommodation for all classes of dis- senters may be stated at 2700 sittings ; while that within the pale of the Established church is 2680 sittings. In the suburbs in the parish of St Vigeans, there is a Wesleyan Methodist meeting- house, which will accommodate 300 ; and one belonging to the Original Secession, which is seated for 300. For the town and suburbs, the total amount of church acconunodation is, in the Establishoient, for 3910 sitters, — and, amongst other denomina- tions, for 3300. By adverting to the state of church accommoda- tion merely, the numerical strength of the dissenters might seem to be considerable. But it must be borne in mind, that most of the dissenting places of worship are miserably ill attended. It is difficult, in some cases, to ascertain exactly the amount of stipend paid to the ministers of those congregations that do not belong to the Established church. That of the Episcopal minister is es- timated, including the Easter offerings, at L. 150. The minister of the first Secession congregation has, we believe, L. 105, be- sides a house and garden/ The second Secession congregation * Another Chapel of Ease was erected in 1829, for the accommodation of that portion of the suburbs of Arbroath which belongs to the parish of St Vigeans. It affords room for 1290 sitters, allowing eighteen inches to each. ARBROATH. 97 profess to allow to their minister the same sum, without a house and garden. However it may be at present, a few years ago the members were unable, or unwilling, to raise that. sum; and the minister, who is since dead, having obtained a grant of any collec- tions which might be made at an evening service, was supported, in a great measure, by the voluntary contributions of members of the Established church, who attended that service and pitied his case. The Relief minister is understood to have L. 60 per an- num allowed to him ; whilst all that can be said of the emoluments of the Congregational or Independent minister is, that they must be miserably poor. Amongst the Glassites, Bereans, and Baptists, the ministerial service is gratuitously performed. From the fore- going statement it will be seen, that none of the livings, whether in or out of the Establishment, are great. And it may be noticed in passing, that, within the period of a very few years, three dis- senting ministers have been literally starved out of the town by their congregations. The following tables will serve to exhibit the classification of the inhabitants of the parish, according to their religious profes- sion, and are the result of actual enumeration. The first table, exhibiting the state of religioas profession in the year 1823, in- cludes not only the parish of Arbroath, but the suburbs also in St Vigeans parish. The other tables, which exhibit the state of religious profession in 1831, refer to the parish of Arbroath only. State of religious profession in 1823. Parish of Suburbs in Total. Arbroath. St Vigeans. Established Church, 5209 2806 8015 Episoopalians, 423 117 540 United Secession, 305 232 537 Original Secession, 24 107 131 MeUiodists, 221 61 282 Glassites, 99 35 134 Congr^^onalists, 57 42 99 Bereans, 17 15 32 Dalites, 5 5 10 Baptists, 1 5 6 Socinians, 2 2 Universalist, 1 1 No denomination. 113 73 186 Total, 6477 3496 9975 Summary, riz. Established Church, 5209 2806 8015 Dissenters, 1155 619 1774 No denomination. 113 73 186 Total, 6477 3498 9975 FORFAR. G 98 FORFARSHIRE. In the above table, those are entered as belonging to the Esta- blished church, who, whilst members of the same, were sitters at the time in other places of worship, in consequence of the want of church accommodation in the Establishment. In the subsequent tables, all are entered according to the church, chapel, or meet- ing-house, in which they professed to attend worship in ordinary. Some, in consequence, are entered as dissenters, who profess to be members of the Establishment. Eftabluhed Church, Arbroath Church, Arbroath Chapel) St Vigeans* Chapel, St Vigeans* Church, Arbirlot Church, No fixed place in the ^ Establishment, D'usenterg. 1st United Secession, 2d United Secession, Original Secession, Episcopalians, ReUef, Wesleyan Methodists, Congregationalists, Glassites, Bereans, Baptists, Papists, No denomination. Summary, viz. Established church. Dissenters, No denomination, S Persons profenitiff toattena wonhip. 2865 1481 690 76* • 8 ,296 250 257 13 4a3 2oa 142 84 69 U 9 13 41 5418 1484 41 r>^^ Persons above I wno are not *^^ Communicants. 1474 693 360 33 6 78 127 HI 7 214 74 48 24 27 8 3 3 2624 646 236 132 51 7 90 106 26 28 1 42 24 25 31 12 1 3 7 24 532 200 24 Families or por* tions of families amongst whom are no Commu* nicants. •-27 32 6 2 41 13 19 4 17 7 12 15 4 1 1 5 21 106 96 21 Number of persons in such families, or portions of families. 63 108 14 2 112 21 34 4 56 16 38 35 21 1 4 6 41 299 236 41 Total, - 6943 3290 756 227 576 It appears by the foregoing table, that, amongst every 1000 persons professing to attend worship, there are, in the Establish- ed church, 484 communicants; and among the dissenters, 435 communicants ; — that, in the EstabUshed church, the proportion of persons above twenty years of age who are not communicants is 98 in 1000 : and, amongst the dissenters, 134 in 1000; — and that in the Established church, .the proportion of the number of persons in families, and portions of families, amongst whom there is not a single communicant, is 55 in 1000 ; whilst, amongst the dissenters, the proportion is 157 in 1000. ARBROATH. 99 The following table exhibits the number of sittings in the Established church occupied as private property, or rented, by persons residing in the parish of Arbroath ; with the number of per- sons for whose accommodation they are thus occupied or rented ; and also the number of persons amongst whom, while professing to attend worship in the Establishment, there is not a single sit- ting occupied as property, or rented. Ftoish diiurch of Arbroath, Arbroath Chi4>el of Ease, St Vigeans Chapel of Ease, Parish church of St Vigeans, Pariah church of Arbiriot, No fixed place in the Esta- 1 blishment, i Total, Sittings occu- pied as proper- ty, or rented. Persons by whom they are thus oc- cupied, or rented. Persons by whom no sittings are ei- ther occupied as property, or rent- ed. 1388 2499 426 729 1297 184 442 650 40 24 56 20 — — 8 — 296 2583 4442 976 Divine service in the Established church is in general well at- tended. There is evening service in the parish church during five months in the year, commencing in the month of April. Such a service, — even if it were continued all the year round, — may be deemed almost necessary, as, in many families, circumstances, often unavoidable, occur, which prevent some of the inmates from getting out to church during the day. Yet it is to be feared that the lau- dable object for which " the exercise^** as it is familiarly termed, was originally established, has come to be abused. Many of those who attend might be better employed in instructing their children at home. Among the dissenters, with whom such services are common, the evening is accounted the grand diet. The best pre- pared discourse is reserved till then, and seats are provided for all who contribute a halfpenny to the collection, and thus assist in keeping up the money concerns of the meeting-house. Amidst the good which might result from evening services in Arbroath, if at- tended only by those for whom they are necessary, this evil has arisen, that they have tended to add to the number of those be- longing to the Established church who rent no sittings, but who might easily, in most cases, pay a moderate seat rent These have got into the way of trusting to free seats at the " evening exercise;" and their families are brought up in habits of carelessness in regard » » • ' * 100 FORFARSHIRE. to that which was deemed essential to the respectability of the men of a former generation. In the Established church the Lord's supper is dispensed twice a year. The average number of conununicants each^time may be stated at about 850 in the parish church, and 680 in the Abbey chapel of ease. Amongst the operative classes, it is very common for the husband to communicate at the one time, and the wife at the other; while, it is to^be feared, not a few, under the pretence of family cares, do not conununicate so often as once in the year. Societies for Religious Purposes. — At the head of these may be placed the Sabbath evening school society, which comprehends within the field of its operations the parishes of Arbroath and St Vigeans. It has been in active operation upwards of twenty years. Dissenters are admitted to teach in its schools, but only on the condition of declaring their adherence to the doctrinal standards of the Established church. A library of 1100 volumes is connected with the institution ; and, besides the ordinary religious books for children and young persons, contains several works of a valuable description. The receipts of the society during the year 1831 amounted to L.dl, Os. S^d. and the expenditure to L.dd, 14s. 4d. The number of male teachers at the same period was 49, and of female teachers 6 ; while the number of male scholars at- tending the schools was 437, and of female scholars 593, in all, 1030. The population of the district, included within the field of the society's operations, is 14,078 ; so that 1 of 13§ of the exist- ing population is receiving Sabbath school instruction. The re- ports of the society do not distinguish the number of scholars resid- ing respectively in the parishes of Arbroath and St Vigeans. But the enumeration of the inhabitants of the parish of Arbroath in 1831, exhibited, in regard to this, the following result: Age. Males. Females. Total. Age. Males. Females. Total. Under 6, - 12 11 23 13-20, - 11 29 40 e-10, - 82 104 186 20-30, - 7 7 10-15, - 84 124 208 Totel, - 189 275 464 A Bible society has existed in the parish since the year 1812. It has been auxiliary to the Edinburgh Bible Society since the British and Foreign Bible Society showed no sign of amendment in the matter of promoting the circulation of the Apocrypha. The average annual income of the institution during the years 1829 and 1830 was L. 38. A society for religious purposes in general, which, a few years ago, was in a flourishing condition, has since in a great ARBROATH. 101 measure fallen away. A home missionary society for the town and suburbs was established in 1830. The expenditure during the year ending March 1832 was L. 43, lOs. Od., leaving a balance against the society of L. 5, 13s. 4d. Deputations from most of the leading religious institutions in the united kingdom visit Arbroath in the course of the season. A few years ago, when it was presumed that a Catholic spirit pervaded the several bodies of Dissenters, the collections, made up chiefly of what was given by members of the Established church, were in general liberal. But they have fallen much off* since the Dissen- ters began to exhibit a spirit of sectarian virulence against the Es- tablishment In the parish church and chapel of ease, collections have been made from time to time in aid of the Scottish Mission- ary^, the Bible and the Gaelic school societies, as well as the Ge- neral Assembly's schools, and the General Assembly's mission to India. No record, apparently, has been kept of these collections, so that the amount cannot be exhibited. On the whole, however, the total amount subscribed and collected annually in the parish for religious purposes may be stated at about L. 130 or L. 140. Education. — Illustrative of the state of education, the following table exhibits the number of persons residing in the parish, who were returned in the census of 1831 as being then at school. Ages. 2- 6, 6-10, 10-15, 15-20, 20-30, Number at School. Males. Females. TotaL 131 107 238 263 236 499 147 135 282 13 23 36 2 3 5 Totol, -556 504 1060 The above includes those attending week-day schools of every description. On the same occasion, a return was made of the num- ber of persons above six years of age who could neither read nor write, of which the following is an abstract : Number who cannot read. Number who cannot write. Ages. Males. , Females. Total. Males. Females. TotaL 6-10, 2 7 9 170 239 409 10-15, - 1 1 29 98 127 1^-30, 3 3 6 17 208 225 30-50, - - 5 5 11 220 231 Above 50, 2 7 23 275 298 Total, . T 21 ^ 250 1040 1290 6-15, - "2 "i 10 199 337 536 Above 15, 5 13 18 51 703 754 102 FORFARSHIRE. In the foregoing table, are included, as unable to read or write, those only, who, by their own confession, or that of their parents or guardians, have never been taught even the first principles of reading or writing. But those are not included, whose inabiUty to read or write has been occasioned by bUndness, insanity, or any other physical defect. It may likewise be stated, that many of those who have left school, and who profess to be able to read or write, can do so very imperfectly. We have not, however, the means of distinguishing such from others who have so profited by their education as to enjoy the advantages arising from it. In the parish there are in all twenty-four schools ; four of which, connected with an establishment which has of late been termed the Arbroath Academy, are under one roof. These four are endowed, — and may be viewed as having come in place of what was originally the parochial school. The other schools in the parish are unendowed. One of them is supported by an associa- tion, termed the Arbroath Female Benevolent Society, for the in- struction, gratuitously, of poor children. The school-house was erected out of funds raised by subscription. An infant school was established in 1831, — and is supported partly by subscription, and partly by means of school fees. Besides these, there are two schools for the instruction of young ladies in the useful and ele- gant branches of female education. And, in addition to these, there are ten schools, intended chiefly for beginners, taught by elderly women in the more humble walks of life. The academy is under the superintendence of a rector, and three masters, to each of whom a separate department is assigned. The salary of the rector is L. 34, and L. 6, lOs. in name of house rent Including the emoluments derived from a mortification by the late town-clerk, Mr Colvill, for the education of five poor children, his income, apart from fees, may be estimated at about L. 50 per annum. The other masters have each a salary of L. 25 per annum. The fol- lowing is a list of the branches taught at the academy, with the fees annexed, as authorized by the magistrates and directors. I. Classical and Mathematical Department. Latin and Greek, with antiquities and ancient geography, per quarter, L. 8 6 French, - - - - - - - -0 10 6 French, with either Latin or Greek, or all three, - - - 13 6 Mathematics, - - - - - - -0 10 6 Navigation, - - - - - - - 10 6 Do. per courte, - - - - - - 1116 Do. with lunar observations, per course, - - - 2 2 ABBROATU. 103 Geography, ttrA eaant otsu. mcwtiw, • - I* 1 1 Dd. with history and eoostniccioQ of maps. 13 Elements of chraoolofy and Britofa hirtory. > 10 6 II. Commercial Dqpartmcnt. Writings plain and ornamental, per quarter, .... 040 Writing, arithmetie with the demonstrations, and geography, so fiv a^ rv>- lates to places upon maps, ..... Book-keeping in aD its forms, ..... III. English Department. English reading and recitation, per quarter, ... Do. dow and English grammar, including compositim) if required. Grammar by itself ...... • IV. General Schools. English, .-....--- English and writing, ...... Engliah, writing, and arithmetic, - ... The above, with English grammar or Latin, ... When the erection of the academy was contemplated, in ld!20, the ma^trates, with a view to obtain the assistance of the public, pro- posed that every person, subscribing L. 10, or upwards, to the in- tended building, should be a director for Ufe, and have a vote in the appointment of the masters, with the exception of the rector, the nomination of whom remains with the magistrates and the pa- rish minister as before. In the unendowed schools in the parish, taught by males, the average fees, per quarter, are, — English 4s.; do. with writing, 5s. ; do. do. with arithmetic, 6s. 6d. The fees at schools taught by elderly women, are, commonly, three half-pence per week. In the first established of the two schools in the parish, for the board and education of young ladies, the following are the terms on which the subjoined branches are taught, per quarter, — 6 6 10 6 5 6 S S 6 4 4 6 Music, three lessons a-weck, Ditto, five lessons a- week, Drawing, ... French, - . . Italian, . . _ Geography and history, Writing and arithmetic, Fancy work, Plain work. Ditto, wjtii Englisli and grammar, L. 1 5 2 1 1 10 1 10 6 10 a 6 10 G 6 10 G Young ladies are taught all the branches for L. 12 per annum. Board, exclusive of education, at this seminary, is L* 25 per annum, and washing L. 4 per annum. Literature. — It cannot, perhaps, be said that there is much tastes 104 FORFARSHIRE. in the town for the higher branches of literature. Few parents think of giving their children a classical education. Of late, how- ever, there is an improvement in this respect. — There is a public library, the property of which is vested in the shareholders. The purchase money is L. 5, besides half a guinea of annual subscrip- tion. The number of volumes in the library is upwards of 4000, of which one-fourth consists of novels and romances, and one- eighth of voyages and travels. It contains the leading monthly and quarterly reviews and magazines. But works of a theological nature have, in a great measure, been excluded. — A small library, consisting of theological and miscellaneous publications, is attach- ed to the Abbey Chapel of Ease, and another of a similar de- scription to the Chapel of Ease in the parish of St Vigeans. — A mechanics' library was instituted in 1824. It contains upwards of 500 volumes, of a theological as well as scientific description. With this it is intended to connect a mechanics' institution or school of arts; and a building for the purpose has just been erected. This comprises also a mechanics' reading-room, which is open every day of the week. Sabbath excepted. There is another public read- ing-room in the town, frequented by most of the merchants and higher class of shopkeepers ; which, we regret to remark, is kept open on the Lord's day. There is no newspaper or other perio- dical work published in the town. The provincial newspaper, which has the greatest circulation in the place, is the Montrose Review. Charitable and other Institutions, — There is neither alms-house, poor-house, hospital, dispensary, nor lunatic-asylum in the town. Still, however, there are several charitable institutions connected with the parish. The most ancient of these is Carmichael's mor- tification for the benefit of seven shipmasters' widows. The be- quest is dated 29th August 1733; and, at present, the net pro- ceeds arising from land-rent, feu-duties, and the interest of L. 600, amount to L. 130. By deed of mortification, 6th July 1811, the late John Colvill, Esq. town-clerk of Arbroath, left property for the following pur- poses connected with the parish, viz. L. 30 per annum to the pa- rochial schoolmaster of Arbroath, for the education of five poor children of that town, he furnishing each of them with pens, ink, paper, and books, to the value of L. 2 ; — ^also L. 10 yearly to the clergyman of the Scotch Episcopal chapel of Arbroath; and L. 10 yearly to the poor of Arbroath, under the direction of the minis- ARBROATH. 105 ter and Kirk-session ; and, in addition to this, a sum annually to twenty poor householders, which at present yields about L. 3, 10s. to each. A Destitute Sick Society was instituted in 1812. Several sums have been bequeathed to it since that period, which will have the effect of rendering it permanent ; but it depends for support chiefly on voluntary contribution. The sums distributed weekly to each patient, vary from one shilling to half-a-crown ; — the average may be stated at eighteen pence. The average annual expenditure is about L.7d. That during the year 1831, was L.75, 15s. There have been several Friendly Societies connected with the parish, some of which have failed in consequence of the inaccuracy of the calculations made at the outset. The Glovers* Friendly Society, which was instituted in 1802, has since been remodelled on approved principles. Another, styled the Arbroath and St Vigeans' Friendly Society, was established in 1830, on principles which bid fair to enable it to succeed. Savings Bank. — This useful institution was established in 1815. The following table exhibits the transactions for each year : From May 1815 to January 1817, L. January 1817 to 1818, 1818 to 1819, 1819 to 1820, 1820 to 1821, 1821 to 1822, 1622 to 1823, 1823 to 1824, 1824 to 1825, 1825 to 1826, 1826 to 1827, 1827 to 1828, 1828 to 1829, 1829 to 1830, 1830 to 1831, 1831 to 1832, 1832 to 1833, Of 648 depositors at last balance, there were 344 adult females, 267 adult males, and 37 children. The first class of depositors consists principally of maid-servants in the town and neighbour- hood, of unmarried women not in service, and of girls at spinning- mills. The second class are principally weavers, and other low- paid tradesmen. And here it may be stated as a fact worthy of notice, that very few of the deposits are by tradesmen who receive what may be termed very high wages. Among this class, likewise, Receipts. Disbursements. 684 6 6 L. 319 13 6 379 16 3 309 9 489 17 3 329 7 5 516 13 3 342 7 11 553 4 454 15 4 876 2 11 518 18 5 1181 2 7 790 15 3 1214 9 3 1104 17 7 1756 4 1294 17 4 2519 13 10 1775 8 1 1543 7 5 2596 7 5 1273 4 4 1127 4 4 1753 17 10 1457 1 10 2437 12 11 1849 13 5 2282 1 3 1999 15 8 2720 8 5 2298 8 4 2937 10 8 2614 6 7 In 1831. InlS32. 45 44 L. 135 10 7 L.128 1 141 137 L. 62 4 6 L. 73 18 106 FORFARSHIRE. there are accounts kept in the name of individuals for behoof of temporary societies, consisting of from 50 to 80 individuals, who pay each sixpence or a shilling weekly, which accumulates till a term, when it is uplifted for the purpose of paying rents, &c Since 1830, two societies have been formed in the village of Auchmithie, in the adjoining parish of St Vigeans, among the fishermen, each consisting of 25 members, who pay sixpence weekly, and deposit the amount in the savings bank. Thus, the ramifications of the institution are much farther spread than the number of depositors would at first sight appear to indicate. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The parish of Arbroath is not sub- jected to the curse of an assessment for the support of the poor. The following is the number of persons, in the years 1830, 1831, and 1832, receiving parochial aid, with the sums allotted for their maintenance. In 1830. Weekly pensioners, ... 48 Sum expended in supporting them, L. 141 16 6 L. 135 10 7 L. 128 1 3 Persons receiving occasional aid, . 147 Sum expended in relieving them, L. 74 14 The allowance to weekly pensioners on the poors' roll varies from 9d. to 4s. per week. The usual allowance may be stated at Is. per week. There is also expended annually by the kirk-session about L. 45 for coals to the poor. The annual cost of lunatics is from L. 30 to L. 40. The amount of funds for the support of the poor, under the management of the session, during the years 1830, 1831, and 1832, is as follows : In 1830. In 1831. In 1832. Aiising from collections at the parish church and chapel of ease, . L. 202 11 94 L. 194 11 3 L. 194 19 10^ Arising from mortifications and other sources, . . . . 162 1 2^ 150 16 1 121 13 94 Total, . . L.364 13 L.345 7 4 .L.316 13 8 • The total expenditure for the poor has been, in 1830, L. 375, 6s. 2d.; in 1831, L. 357, 7s. 2d. ; and, in 1832, L.866, 19s. 5d. It appears, from the above statement, that, during these years, the expenditure has exceeded the income. This has arisen, partly, from " untoward events^* in connection with the chapel of ease, where the collections have fallen off one-half of what they were some time ago. But the cause of this defalcation of revenue, will, it is hoped, be speedily removed, that the evils of a compulsory assessment may be avoided. Prisons. — There is a jail in the burgh of Arbroath. It is well ARBROATH. 107 secured, and every means observed for preserving the health, and promoting the comfort, of the prisoners. The jailor is under the superintendence of one of the bailies of the town by turns. The number of persons confined in the jail, during the year 1831, was 55, of whom 46 were imprisoned for debt, 6 for theft, and 3 for desertion of service. Fairs. — Of these there are two held in the parish. Whatever may have been the business transacted at them formerly, the whole is now confined to the sale chiefly of ready-made shoes, sweet- meats, &C. ; while, in the evening, the public houses are crowded with the idle and intemperate. Inns and Alehouses, — Of these there were, in 1832, within the royalty, 85 ; in the parish, without the royalty, 10 ; total within the parish 95. Thus there is in the parish, on an average, one public house, or place where spirituous liquors are sold, to every 18 fa- milies, or to every 40 individuals, of the population of both sexes, above 20 years. We have already said that a very large portion of the misery which afflicts the labouring classes may be traced to habits of intemperance. And one of the causes of Ihe prevalence of this vice may fairly be ascribed to the number of public houses which are licensed. liieL — The fuel made use of in the parish is coal, imported by^sea from the counties of Durham and Northumberland. Coal is likewise imported from the Firth of Forth, chiefly for the use of large manufacturing establishments, where steam is employed as the moving power. Miscellaneous Observations. Table showing wages, per week, of the following classes of artisan labour : — 1812. 1819. 182G. 1833. Ship-carpenters, L.i 2 L.0 15 LI L.0 14 House-carpenters, 14 15 12 Maacns, 12 8i 9 10 3 10 H Founders, I 1 1 1 1 I 1 Blacksmiths, 16 1 16 15 Tailors, 15 15 15 18 Curriers, 1 12 1 8 1 8 I 8 Tanners, • . 15 14 13 13 MDlwrights, 12 1 17 15 WeaTcrs, 16 12 12 12 6 Flax -dressers. 15 9 10 G 10 G Shoemaker^ lOs. to . 12 12 12 12 108 FORFARSHIRE. Table showing the prices of provisions and other necessaries of life, during the following years, for the working-classes : — 1812. 1819. 1826. ia33. Wheaten bread per quart, loaf, I..0 1 6 L.0 u L.0 10 L.O 8 Oatmeal per peck of 81b. Dutch, 1 4 1 4 1 Potatoes per stone of 161b. Dutch, 1 H *4 4 Barley per lb. avoirdupois. 2i 24 2 Beef do. 8 7 6 5 Mutton do. 8 7 6 54 Cheese do. 4 4 4 Butter do. 104 10 8 Beer per barrel of 18 gallons, 10 10 10 9 Soap per lb. 94 7 64 Candles per lb. e 11 7 6 Brown sugar per lb. 104 84 7 Tea per lb. 7 6 6 5 6 Salt per lb. . 2 Oj^g 4 Coals per imperial barrel. 1 34 1 34 1 2 1 1 Hats each, 7 6 6 6 5 6 Shoes for men per pair. 10 10 10 9 6 Shoes for women per pair, 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 Coarse calico per yard. 1 1 I 7 6 House-rent per year, 3 2 15 2 15 2 15 Since the preceding account was printed, the following state- ment has been obtained of the average gross amount of raw pro- duce yearly raised in the parish : — Grain of aU kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic ani- mals, .... . . Potatoes, turnips, &c cultivated in the fields for food, Hay, meadow or cultivated, - - . - Land in pasture, - - ' - Gardens and orchards, .... Annual thinning and periodical felling of woods. Fisheries, - . . . . L.14d0 302 10 340 820 850 1200 L.4142 10 December 1833. PARISH OF FARNELL. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. HENRY BREWSTER, MINISTER.* L — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries, Sfc. — The name of this parish was ancient- ly written Femell, afterwards Femwall or Famwall ; but now com- monly FarnelL Femell is said to be of Gaelic origin,— ^/mi signifying a den, and nell a swan ; from which it would appear that the name had been taken from a den near the church, which may once have been the abode of swans. The parish of Kinnaird was disjoined from Famell, and formed into a separate parish, about the year 1633; but was again an- nexed (all except a small part, which fell into the parish of Bre- chin,) in 1787. The parish is about three EngUsh miles long, by two broad, and consequently contains about six square miles. This, however, is exclusive of a large plantation or forest which is attached to it, of 1500 or 1600 acres, in a moor called Mon- teith-mont Muir: and the property in this parish holds, along with others, a right over an extensive undivided common, lying on the south, called Rossie muir. It is bounded on the east by the parish of Marytown ; on the south by Rossie muir ; on the west by the parishes of Kinnell and Brechin ; and on the north by the parish of Brechin and the river South Esk. Topographical Appearance and Soil. — The lands are generally flat, — rising towards the north and along the south side of the parish. Extending into the parishes of Marytown and Craig, there is a ridge of hills, but of no considerable height In these higher grounds, as well as in the western district, which has been more lately brought under culture, the soil is of an inferior quality, con- sisting chiefly of light black earth. The rest of the parish is of * This Account was drawn up by the late incumbenti the Rev. Alexander Doug- las. 110 FORFARSHIRE. a very rich clay and loamy soil, much resembling that in the Carse of Gowrie, between Perth and Dundee ; and is admirably adapted for carrying heavy crops of wheat. Hydrography, — The South Esk is the only river of any con- sequence connected with the parish. It takes its rise among the Grampian mountains, — runs close by the south side of the town of Brechin, and, after meandering beautifully through the strath, discharges itself into the basin formed by the reflux of the sea on the west side of Montrose. The part of it which separates Far- nell from Brechin is particularly beautiful. The banks are taste- fully wooded ; and there is a pleasure drive along them, which opens up at several places into views highly pleasing and pic- turesque. Near the church, also, there is a small rivulet, which, though inconsiderable in its ordinary state, swells in rainy seasons to an amazing height^ overflowing the banks, and laying the ad- joining fields under water. Means, however, have been recently taken for keeping it within its channel, and thus preventing the injury which it was apt to occasion. IL — Civil History. Land-OwMr. — The whole parish is the property of Sir James Carnegie, Baronet, of Southesk. A plan of his estates is in the course of being formed, every farm being surveyed and inserted at the letting of a new lease. That part which lies within this parish is already almost completed. Parochial Registers, — These extend back to the year 1699, are full and distinct, and apparently kept with great regularity. But those of Kinnaird, while it existed as a separate parish, have been altogether lost ; and no trace or history of them can be found. Antiquities, — On the north side of the church, and almost en- circled by the den from which the parish is supposed to take its name, stands an old castle, once the property and residence of the Ogilvies of Airly. It is kept in good repair, and part of it is al- lotted as a free dwelling to some infirm and indigent people. Modem Buildings, — Kinnaird Castle, the mansion of the South- esk family, is an elegant and spacious modern building. It is of a square form, with a square tower at each comer, and has a very imposing and princely appearance. The lofty trees around the extensive lawn in front, the flower garden, and other ornamental appendages, harmonize well with the building itself, and contribute not a little to its elegance and beauty. The whole pLice is on a FARNELL. Ill seale of magnificence hardly exceeded, if equalled, by any in this part of the country. The are two meal and two saw-mills in the parish, but no ma- Du&ctories or other milb. One of these saw-mills is occasionally employed (between twenty and thirty circular saws being fixed upon the same axis, at a Uttle distance from each other,) for cut- tmg into dust the jaw bones of whales to make manure for land, especially for raising turnip crops. III. — Population. In 1800 the population amounted to 57(5 1811 - - - 582 1821 . 8 . 599 1831 - - - 592 The population has of late been rather on the decrease, owing principally to the uniting of farms, by which the number of tenants and labourers and residing families is necessarily diminished. 1. Number of families in the parish, - - . - - - 128 of &milic8 chiefly engaged in agriculture, ... {18 in trade, manufactures, or handicraA, - 17 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, G of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 30 3L The average number of births yearly for the last seven years, . . 20 of deaths, .... - 8 of marriages, . - . . 4 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - > 230 upwards of 70, . ... 35 IV. — Industry. AffricuUure and Rural Economy, — There are about 3325 acres of cultivated land in the parish ; and 562 under wood, besides the forest of 1500 or 1600 acres, already alluded to. There are about 600 acres in undivided common, which fall to be divided among the parishes of Famell, Kinnell, Marytown, and Craig. About 50 of these, in the parish of Farnell, are supposed to be capable of being profitably improved. Waste ground is hardly to be seen in the parish. The wood is planted, and the management as to pruning, &c. is judicious. Scotch and larch firs seem to be the species of trees best adapted for the soil, and of these chiefly the plantations consist; but the different kinds of hard-wood might also be cultivated with success, as appears from some large old trees about the policies of Kinnaird, as well as from the thriving state of such as have boen 112 FORFARSHIRE. more recently planted. The average rent of arable land is about 40s. per acre. Rate of Wages. — The rate of wages for different kinds of farm- labourers and country artisans is, per day, from Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. in winter ; and from Is. 6d. to 2s. in summer. Husbandry. — Husbandry is in a highly advanced state; and much especially has been done in the way of draining. The leases are in all ordinary cases for nineteen years, and are considered favour- able to the tenant The farm-houses and other buildings and en- closures are in general excellent ; and every encouragement seems to be given to the industry and spirit for improvement which exists amongst the farmers. The ordinary kinds of farm stock are rear- ed with great success ; and of the prizes given for such by the For- farshire Agricultural Association, the produce of this parish has for many years carried off a distinguished share. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish may be as follows : Wheat, - 1763 boUa, L . 2557 I 6 Barley, - 2575 - 2877 13 Oats, . 3377 m 3180 2 Pease and beans, -1133 m 901 13 7 Turnips, 201 acres, - 1005 Potatoes, 1 194 acres. m 1195 New grass cut, 1874 acres. • 1125 New grass pasture, 4674 Acres, - I860 Natural pasture, 90, a L. 15 14,716 8 3 Fishery. — There is a salmon fishing in the river South Esk, which at present yields a rental of L. 250 a-year. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town^ Means of Communication. — The parish contains neither town nor village. The nearest post and market-town is Brechin, which is distant between three or four miles from the church. A turnpike road is at present in the course of being made between Montrose and Forfar, two miles of which lie in this parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is very conveniently situate,' not a house in the parish being more than two miles distant, and the greater part not above half that distance. It is a Gothic building of oblong form, with vaulted roof, and has a very tasteful appearance both within and without. It was built in the year 1806, 3 FARNELL. 113 ud is still in good repair. It is capable of accommodating above 330 sitters. The manse was built at different periods ; but all of it since the year 1794. It is in good repair. There are about seven acres of glebe, valued at L. 18 or L. 20 ar-year. The stipend, since 1811, when it was last augmented, has been 134 bolls. If pecks meal; 32 bolls potatoe-oats ; and 97 bolls, 3 firlots, 3| pecks barley ; besides the usual allowance of Lb 8, 6s. 8d. for conmiunion elements. There are twelve grown up persons in this parbh who attend worship at' Dissenting chapels in Brechin ; two families, both nu- merous, comprising about fourteen members in all, commonly re- siding in this parish, attend Episcopalian chapels. The rest of tlie populaticMi belongs to the Established church ; and divine service is in general well attended* The average number of communicants at the Established church for some years past lias been about 275. An annual church collection is made for religious purposes; which, after deducting the average collection for the poor, has hitherto amounted to L. 9 or L. 10 a-year. JEducation. — Besides the parish school, there are two schools taught by females for young children, and for the branches pecu- liar to girls. These are supported by school fees, and the teachers have each a salary and free house allowed by the family of South- esk; there are also two Sabbath schools, both numerously attended. The salary of the parochial teacher is L. 30 ; the amount of school fees received probably from L. 20 to L. 24 a-year. He has the legal accommodations. The school fees per quarter arc 2s. 6d. for reading; and 6d. additional, either for writing or arithmetic; and Is. for both. It is believed that all person'^ in the parisli above six years of age are able to read. Library, — There is a parish Ubrary, consisting of religious books; and a fair proportion of readers resorts to it. /Vwr.— The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is from fifteen to twenty ; and the average allowance to each is from three to six shillings per month ; though in some instances consider- ably more, according to the necessities of the case. Besides those on the regular roll, others get occasional help, and a share of the money which is distributed for purchasing coals. The several sums expended on the poor amount to L. 50 or L. 60 ; of this L. 25 is the interest of legacies * and other lying- • The legacies are as follows : — ^in 1762, one of COO mcrks, by Dean Carnegie, of FORFAR. li 114 FORFARSHIKE. • money, amounting in all to L. 500, for which the heritor gives five per cent ; the rest being made up by church collections and liberal donations received from time to time from the heritor and his lady. Besides those supported by the session-funds, there are several who have free houses, pensions, or other privileges ; so that, upon the whole, the condition of the poor in this parish is rather un- usually comfortable. There are still occasional and very decided manifestations of an unwillingness to receive parochial relief; but that spirit is here, as elsewhere, visibly on the decline. Inns. — In this parish there is neither an inn nor an alehouse, nor is the want of them regretted by any. Fuel. — Coals are the fuel chiefly in use. They are brought from Montrose, or from a harbour on the west side of the basin at Old Montrose, by which two miles of land-carriage are saved. Decayed wood and loppings of trees, which are sold publicly from time to time, and at a moderate rate, are found very serviceable in this respect. the family of Craigo, once minister of this parish; in 1815, one of L. 200 by David LyaU, Esq. of Gallery, intended chiefly to be distributed for purchasing coals ; and in 1830, one of L. 200 by Thomas Webster, Esq. Heathfield, for the general benefit of the poor. January 1833. PARISH OF MARYTOWN. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ANDREW FERGUSSON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries^ Sfc. — The name of Marjtown was probably giTen to this parish in honour of the Virgin Mary, — a well on the border of the parish still retaining the name of Mary well. The parish is bounded by the river South Esk, and the basin (commonly called the back sands,) of Montrose on the north; by the parish of Craig on the east ; by the sea and the parish of Lunan on the south ; and by the parish of Farnell on the west. Its extent from east to west is about a mile and a-half ; and from north to south three miles. Topographical Appearances. — A small ridge of hills run through it from east to west, dividing it into two estates, — Old Montrose and Dysart. The sea coast, which forms the boundary- of the latter, consists of very high rocks, which afford shelter to a variety of sea fowL Marytovm Law^ which forms a part of that ridge, is a con- siderable eminence founded on a rock 300 or 400 feet above the level of the sea. It is evidently artificial, and probably in old times was either an alarm-post, as it commands a very extensive view, both of sea and land ; or a place where the great family of Mon- trose administered justice to its vassals. The top of it affords one of the most beautiful prospects in Scotland. To the north, close imder the eye, is the rich and fertile strath extending from Brechin to Montrose, marked with the windings of the river South Esk, and with gi number of elegant country seats; there is also a fine view of both these towns, with the basin and harbour of Montrose; and in the back ground are the Grampian mountains, and part of the adjoining county of Kincardine. To the east and south lies the well cultivated parish of Craig, adorned with several gentlemen's seats, and the prospect is terminated by an extensive view of the German Ocean. 116 FORFARSHIRE. Zoology. — In the river South Esk, which forms the northern boundary of the parish, there is abundance of salmon, grilse, sea- trout, &c In the month of May, a great quantity of beautiful clear small trout called smouts make their appearance. It is said that they are the salmon fry spawned the preceding autumn, and are then go- ing down from the river to the sea, where they arrive at maturity. A vast variety of aquatic birds frequent the basin or back sands, es- pecially in the winter season, viz. wild geese, ducks of various kinds, gulls, sea-magpies, curlews, herons, &c. The wild geese arrive in great flocks about the end of October, and generally remain till March. They frequent the fields on the low grounds throughout the day, where they feed upon the wheat stubble in autumn, and the green wheat in winter; and they return to the basin at night. The ducks, on the contrary, remain in the basin through the day; but when the night falls, they go to the land, and feed upon the stubble fields. In severe storms, swans are also to be seen in the basin ; but they do not remain long. There is a great abundance of partridge in the parish, and some quails and pheasants. Botany. — The only rare plant in the parish is the AtrojHi Bella- donna^ or deadly nightshade, which grows in the Den of Bonny- town. Its berries are of a dark-purple colour, and highly injuri- ous when taken internally. Their juice forms a beautiful ink of a bluish colour, which is durable on paper, if used when pressed from the berry ; but, if kept in a phial, it in a few days loses both strength and colour. II. — Civil History. The parish, as already mentioned, consists of two estates. Old Montrose and Dysart, which are separated half a mile from each other by a part of the parish of Craig intervening. Old Mon- trose was the property of the great family of Montrose till the reign of Charles II. when it came into the possession of the Earl of Middleton. Since that time it has passed through many hands, and is now the property of Sir James Carnegie of Southesk, Baronet. From its name, one would suppose that there had been a town here before the present town of Montrose was built ; but of that there is no tradition. Bonnytown, formerly a separate pro- perty, but now a part of the estate of Old Montrose, was once the residence of the family of Wood. The foundation of the castle they inhabited is still to be seen ; and of a moat or broad deep ditch by which it was surrounded and fortified, the vestige still re- MARYTOWN. 117 mains. The other estate, Dysart, belongs to David Camegj-, Esq. of Craigo. Neither of the heritors reside in the parish. Parochial Re^fisters. — The parochial register begins in 1738, and has been regularly kept since that time ; and part of a previ- ous register remains. IH. — Population. By Dr Wcbster^s report in 1755, the population was - 633 By last Statistical Account in 1793, - - 529 By the census in 1801, .... 596 in 1821 451 in 1831, .... 419 A decrease of 177 thus appears to have taken place in the last thirty years. It may be remarked, however, that, when the census was taken last year, there were twenty men employed at an em- bankment of the river South £sk, who will remain in this parish no longer than while employed at that work ; so that the real popu- lation of the parish at present is not more than 400, being a de- crease of 200, or one-third of the whole population, since the be- ginning of the present century. Tlie cause of that decrease is evi- dently the enlargement of the farms, and the consequent removal of the cottagers. Thirty years ago, the number of farmers resid- ing in the parish was fourteen. At present the whole land is occu- pied by seven, of whom only four reside in the parish. 1. The number of families in the parish, ... -92 of families engaged chiefly in agriculture, • . 45 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 12 2. The number of unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, upwards of 50, - 14 of unmarried women, including widows^ upwards of 45, 19 3. Average number of births yearly for the last seven years, . . of burials, - - ... .J of marriages, - - . . ,S 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age is - . 149 upwards of 70, .... 7 Character and Habits of the People. — The ordinary food of the peasantry is oatmeal and milk. They enjoy in a reasonable de- gree the comforts and advantages of society, and appear to be con- tented with their situation and circumstances. Their general cha- racter may be termed moral and religious. They are regular in their attendance on public worship ; and they show a desire to read religious books given out from the parish library. 118 FORFARSHIRE. IV. — Industry. Agricvlture and Rural Economy. — Almost the whole of the land in the parish is cultivated, and in a high state of improvement. The number of acres in cultivation being ... 2080 In pasture, ...... 32 Under vood, . - - - . - 70 Capable of being cultivated with a profitable application of capital, - In undivided common, .... . The lands of Old Montrose consist either of a strong deep clay, conmionly called in Scotland carse landj admirably adapted for wheat, or of a very fine loam. The lands of Dysart lying higher, are of a lighter quality, but have been much improved of late years, and bear good crops. Husbandry. — The usual mode of cropping the clay land is a rotation of six parts, Ist, fallow, the land well-dunged, and, if ne- cessary, limed ; '2rf, wheat ; Sdy pease or beans ; 4^A, barley sown with grass seeds ; 5^A, grass ; 6^A, oats. There are two modes of cultivating the lighter lands. The first is in four parts, 1^^, turnips or potatoes, the soil well dunged ; 2rf, barley after the tur- nip, or wheat after the potatoes, sown with grass seeds ; Qd, grass ; and 4tth, oats. Another mode is in five parts, viz. fallow or pota- toes ; next wheat or barley, sown with grass seeds ; then two years in grass ; and lastly a crop of oats. The average return per acre is as follows, — ^wheat 10 bolls on clay land, and on the lighter soil, 7 or 8 bolls of 4 bushels; barley, 8 bolls; oats 8 bolls of 6 bushels; beans from 10 to 14 bolls, wheat measure, according to the season ; and pease from 6 to 10. The grain in general is of a fine quality. An acre of turnips, if sold upon the field, is reckoned worth L. 10 ; but if consumed upon the field, is not reckoned worth more than L. 5 or L. 6. The price of potatoes varies according to the season. The average price of an acre may be stated at L. 12 ; but it will often fetch L. 14 or L. 15. The ploughing is all carried on by horses. No oxen are used. A plough drawn by two horses is considered as sufficient for fifty acres. A considerable number of horses are reared upon the farms ; and it is acknowledged that the breed, both of horses and cattle, has of late years been much improved by associations form- ed by the farmers for that purpose in this and the neighbouring counties. A great many cattle are fed in this parish during the winter upon turnip and straw, and sold to the butchers. On one MAUYTOWN. 119 of the farms, eighty are at present feeding, which will weigh from forty to sixty stones each. The farms are usually let on leases of nineteen years. The farm-houses and offices are good and substantial. On some of the farms the fields are inclosed with stone dikes, which are evi- dently the best and most durable fences, but on the lower lands thorn hedges are still in use. Valued rent. Old Montrose, - . L.2d66 13 4 Scotch. Dysart, - - 033 6 8 L. 3000 Scotcli. Real rent. Old Montrose, - - L. 3780 Dysart, - - 1000 L.4780 Salmon fishing South £sk, - - - 100 Rental of the parish, - - L. 4880 RtTit of Land. — The best land let^ from L. 3 to L.3, 10s. per acre; the inferior land at L. 1, 10s. Wages of Labour. A ploughman, from L. 10 to L. 12 a-year ; I Scotch pint of sweet milk, and 1 boll Scotch, or 8 barrels English coals a-year ; with (S\ bolls meal. A maid-aerrant, L. 6, with diet. A day-labourer, Is. 4d. in winter, and Is. 8d. in summer, per day. Wrights, masons, &c. 2s. 6d. and Ss. Quarries. — Several quarries have been opened of late years, but they are all of the coarse stone called trap, or scurdy^ chiefly used for building dikes or making roads. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce raised in the parish may be as follows : Wheat, - 1778 bolls, at L. I 8 6 J being the liars average of last four years, L. 2535 10 0^ Barley, - 2870 do. 12 do. - 3228 15 Oats, - 3346 do. 18 2 do. - 3039 5 8 Pease and beans, 1034 do. 16 11 do. . 874 11 10 Turnip, - 182 acres, valued at L. 7t 10s. per acre, - 1365 Potatoes, - 62 do. 10 do. - - 620 Grass, - 141 acres cut green, and hay 200 to 250 stones per acre, } ^^..,^ - 284 value from 5d. to 8d, per stone, J - 284 acres pastured, value from 30s. to 35s. per acre, 461 10 Fallow - 160 acres. L. 14,508 7 6i It may be added, that thirty acres have of late been regained from the sea green of the basin at Old Montrose, and are embank- ed and now under crop. As much might also be recovered by 120 FOBFABSHIRE. embankment along the side of the basin, within the boundary of this parish. It may also be added, that the yearly value of the garden fruits raised in the parish is about L. 80 ; and of river fishing about L.100. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Toum. — This parish derives much advantage from its vicinity to the town of Montrose, where the farmer has always a ready market for everything he can raise, and where in return he can purchase whatever he needs for his farm or his family. Means of Communication. — Another great benefit is the open navigation from Montrose to Old Montrose, where eoals are im- ported for fuel to this and the adjoining parishes ; and likewise great quantities of lime for manure. Vessels of fifty or sixty tons burden can, at stream tides, land their cargoes at that harbour. Grain and potatoes are also sometimes shipped from the same place. This, and the parishes to the westward, will also derive another great benefit from a turnpike road just now making, and leading from Montrose to Forfar, which will open the communi- cation, and shorten the distance betwixt these towns about four miles. This road, passing the whole way through a very level country, will afibrd to the farmer easy access to the harbour of Montrose for the delivery of his grain, while it will also facilitate the carriage, from quarries situate to the westward, of slates and pavement, for which there is a great demand at that town and harbour. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands on the east comer of the parish ; nevertheless, it is very accessible to all the inhabit- ants, — none of the people being at a greater distance from it than two miles. It was built in 1791, and some years ago underwent a thorough repair ; and is now a very commodious house for public worship. It may accommodate nearly 300 people, or about 100 more than in the present state of the population can be supposed to attend. The number of families attending the Established church is 90. The manse is partly an old, and partly a new, building. The principal part of it was buih in 1789 ; the rest is of a much older date. The offices were all rebuilt five years ago, and, by the kindness of the heritors, on a larger scale than usual ; and they now afford very complete accommodation. The glebe measures MARYTOWN. 121 six acres of good land. The stipend is L. 85, 6s. lid. Sterling, including communion element money ; 1*24 bolls meal and barley, one-half each, and 1 boll 2 firlots oats, being the whole teinds of the parish, amounting at an average to L. 200. The Crown is patron. Education, — At the parochial school, the usual branches of edu- cation, besides Latin, are taught. The schoolmaster's salary is L.dO, and the other emoluments of his office may amount to L. 15. He is provided with a dwelling-house, which was lately re- paired at a considerable expense, and with a garden of nearly the extent required by law. All persons in the parish upwards of 6 years of age can read. Sunday schools were established in this parish many years ago. At present there are two, which are attended by sixty scholars. The best scholars at the week-day-school are always to be found among those who have attended a Sunday school. Libraries. — Parish libraries have become general, and have l>een productive of beneficial effects. There was one established here several years ago, which consists of more than 200 volumes, be- sides nearly 100 pamphlets. There are not a few of the people who shew a laudable desire for these books, and avail themselves of them. Poor. — The number on the poors' roll receiving parochial aid monthly, is 12; and the average sum allowed to each is 3s. 9d. ; but besides the monthly allowance, there are occasional dis- tributions to the most indigent. The poors' funds arise from the interest at five per cent, of a stock of L. 400, lodged with the principal heritor, and the collections at the church, amounting to L. 18 or L. 20 a-year, — together with a small perquisite for the use of the mortcloth. The demand upon the funds is in some re- spects greater than it was some years ago. In consequence of the introduction of machinery to a great extent in manufactories, fe- males in the country can find little or no employment, except when hired to the field for a short time in summer and harvest. Spinning, which formerly afforded them employment throughout the year, now brings no return, and the wheel has therefore been un- willingly laid aside. Nevertheless, the poor are not discontented ; they thankfully receive from the kirk-session the sum allotted to them, and they strictly apply it to their subsistence. There are no beggars belonging to this parish; but the parish is much infest- 122 FORFARSHIRE. ed with beggars and vagrants from other quarters, who consume not a little of what should go to the support of the parochial poor. Alehouses^ Sfc. — There is much reason to complain of the num- ber of houses licensed for selling spirits on the public roads, though there is only one house of that description in this parish : it is on the highway leading from Montrose to Arbroath. Fuel. — The fiiel chiefly used is coals, brought from the harbours of Montrose and Old Montrose, which cost 14d. or 15d. the English barrel, weighing nine stones odds. But coals are now sold at Montrose by the standard barrel of one and a-half hundred weight, which on trial has been found to contain from seven to fourteen pounds, according to the quality of the coal, more than the former heaped measure' of two imperial bushels. Wood arising from the thinning and pruning of the forest-trees in the neighbourhood can also be purchased at a reasonable rate. December 1833. PARISH OF DUN. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JOHN EADIE, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name J Boundaries^ S^c. — The name Dun seems to be taken from that of the proprietor, who was called Dun of that Ilk. It is said that a person named Erskine married the heiress. But at what time that happened, it is difficult to say ; as it is known only by fa- mily tradition. Others derive the name from the Gaelic Dunisj which signifies a hill or rising ground ; and it is, indeed, on a ground pretty much elevated above the river South Esk, or South Water; for Esk is said in Gaehc to signify water. Its greatest extent is about four miles in length, and as much in breadth ; but as it runs out into narrow points to the north-west and south-east, it does not contain more than twelve square miles. There is a small part separated from the rest of the parish by the basin or estuary at Montrose, called the Fort-hill, the land at the end of the bridge, and several houses which belong to Montrose quoad sacra. It is bounded on the west by the parish of Brechin ; on the east by that of Montrose ; on the north by the parishes of Strickathrow and Logic Pert ; and on the south by the parishes of Marytown and Kinnaird, which last is now united to Farnell. Topographical Appearance, — Its figure is very irregular. The low lands by the river side, and towards the basin, where the water is kept off by dikes, are clayey and very productive; along the side of the basin by Broomley, Gilrivie, and Tayocks, the land rises more abruptly, and the soil is light and sandy. Leaving the fields along the river and basin, and going*north, the land rises gradually into rich fields of black earth, on the farm of Balwyllo and Mains of Dun, — the grass parks about Dun and Langley Park, and the farm of Well-hill, having a southern exposure. In the middle are the farms of Balnillo, Leys of Dun Fordis, Tetherewe, Glenskenno, and Higham, which are good land. To the north of these the 124 FORFARSHIRE. land becomes flattened, wet, and miry, and, except the farm of North Mains and several small places, the greater part of it is under wood. On the north of Balnillo Wood is Dun's Dish, a lake covering about forty acres of land, collected from the adjoin- ing fields and springs for the use of mills. II. — Civil History. There is no history of the parish printed or in manuscript; nor are there any historical occurrences worthy of notice. Land-oumers, — The chief land-owners are the most noble Mar- quis of Ailsa ; James Cruickshank, Esq. of Langley Park ; David Camegy, Esq. of Craigo; and Patrick Cruickshank, Esq. of Glens- kenno. Parochial Registers. — The date of the earliest entry on the pa- rochial register of births and baptisms is the 10th July 1642; of marriages, the 14th September 1646. There are three vo- lumes of these registers, but they do not appear to have been very regularly kept, and the first is scarcely legible. There is also a register of burials in the parish, begun in the year 1777, and continued to the year 1793; but from that time it has been very irregularly kept. The records of the kirk-session begin on the 19th July 1702, and consist of four volumes. III. — Population. In 1801, the population amounted to 651 1811, - - 680 1821, - - 605 And in 1831, - - 514 The recent decrease is said to be owing to a number of cottar- houses, and several other houses that had a few acres of land attach- ed to them, having been taken down. There is no town or village in the parish. 1. Number of families in the parish, ^ .... 97 of fiimilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 88 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 9 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 5 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 27 3. The average number of births yearly for the last seven years, - 11 of marriages, ----- 3^ 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 169 upwards of 70, - - - 10 There is only one family of independent fortune resident at DUN. 125 present ; but there are in the parish four proprietors of land up- wards of L. 50 in yearly value. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — There are about 2600 stand- ard imperial acres under cultivation in the parish; besides 230 acres around the houses of Dun and Langley Park, whieli have been a number of years in grass, and rent from 30s. to 80s. per acre. There are about 550 acres under wood, and about 100 acres of uncultivated moor. There is also a large track of ground covered by the tides that might be embanked ; but it is doubtful whether it would yield a fair return. Hutbandry, — Several different rotations are practised, accord- ing to the quality of the soil. Upon the wet strong low-lying land, a six-shift rotation, namely, 1«^, fallow ; 2^, wheat ; 3^/, pease or beans; 4^A, barley sown down with grass seeds; 5M, grass generally cut for hay ; 6^, oats. Upon a drier class of strong land, likewise a six-shift, 1^^, potatoes, or drilled pease or beans ; 2 V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated within the Mar- quis of Ailsa's enclosures, is very convenient for the greater part of the population, and about two or three miles from the extremi- ties of the parish. It is said to have been a chapel belonging to the family of Dun, the mansion-house of the family having been built very near to the churchyard. The roof and ceil- ing is so much decayed, that it is proposed at present to have the church renewed.* It affords accommodation to nearly 400 persons. There are no free sittings; but there are several pews, belonging to the session, let yearly for a very small sum. It is not known when the oldest part of the manse was built ; but an addition of two rooms was made to it about fourteen years ago. Some repairs in the manse and offices, and also some addi- tions to the offices, were made in 1828. The extent of the glebe is betwixt five and six acres of very good land, which may be valued at L. 20 a-year. The amount of stipend is L. 150 yearly, including L. 33, 8s. 5d. from Government. There are about 100 families, and 260 persons, attending the Established * A new church has been built since the above was written. DUN. 127 diurch. There are 8 persons attending the nearest chapels of Dissenters and Seceders ; 6 attending the Episcopalian chapel m Montrose. Divine service at the Established church is generally veil attended. The average number of communicants at the Esta- blished church is 225. ____ • Educatioiu — The total number of schools in the parish is three, — one parochial and two unendowed. The salarj- of the parochial schoolmaster is the maximum, and the school-fees amount to about L. 12 yearly. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accom- modation. The general expense of education is ds. per quarter for reading ; 4s. for reading and writing ; and 5s. for reading, wTit- ing, and arithmetic. There are no persons above six years of age who cannot either read or write. The people in general are very much alive to the benefits of education, and arc very anxious to have their children well instructed in all the useful branches. UJbrary. — There is a small parochial library, mostly of religious books, of which the people are verj- fond. Savinffs Bank. — There is a savings bank in the parish, which was instituted on the 8th June 1818. The average amount depo- sited yearly, from 1818 to 1830, is L. 50, 14s. 4|d., and withdrawn, L.d8) Is. 5|d. The investments are generally made by the la- bouring class of people. JPoor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is eleven, and the average sum jillotted to each, yearly, is nearly L. 3. There are also various sums given to persons who are occasionally in difficulty, before they are placed regularly upon the poors' roll. The heritors, according to their valued rent, pay for the keeping of a lunatic, belonging to the parish, in the Montrose asylum, at the rate of L. 12 ; and for another per- son at the rate of L. 10 yearly. The average amount from collec- tions at the church is L. 26 ; interest of money, L. 1 1 ; seat-rents, mortcloth, &c. L. 2. There is little disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief, and they do not consider it de- grading. Fairs. — Two fairs used to be held in the parish on Dun's Muir, — the first in May, on the Tuesday before the first Wednesday, old style ; the second in June, third Wednesday. But last season they were removed to a piece of waste ground about a mile to the north, on the side of the Strickathrow road on the estate of Dun, and in the parish of Logic Pert. 128 FORFARSHIRE. Innsj Sfc. — There is on the turnpike road a toll-house and an alehouse, where spirituous liquors are sold ; they are frequented chiefly by the people travelling the turnpike road, but very seldom by the people of this parish. Fuel. — English coal, procured at the shore in Montrose, from Is. to Is. dd. per barrel, is the fuel generally used. January 1833. PARISH OF BRECHIN. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JAMES BURNS, A.M.,! TurvTCTTTPQ* THE REV. GEORGE WHITSON, | MAJ>'AoiiJ.K&. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, Batmdaries^ 4*^.— The name Brechin is derived from a Gaelic term, signifying a brae ; and is descriptive of the sloping bank beside the river South £sk, on which the town is situated. The parish extends in length from east to west about seven English miles, and in breadth from north to south about six. It consists of 24| square miles. It b bounded by the parish of Dun on the east ; by Carriston on the west ; by Strickathrow and M enmuir on the north; and by Famell on the south; while on the south-west it marches with Aberlemno. It is not of a very regular shape^ al- though no part of it extends much above three miles in each di- rection from the burgh. The Grampian mountains are seen at no great distance to the north ; but there is no eminence which can be called a mountain within the parish, excepting Burghill, or Burkle, (as it is usually pronounced,) which lies on the south side of the town. The greater part of the parish is level, or diversi- fied by gently sloping grounds. The climate is justly reckoned temperate and salubrious. From the extensive draining of wet lands of late years, we hear of no complaints of ague, which were common in former times. No pre- valent distemper can be said to exist in the district Meteorology. — On this head the writer presents the following meteorological table, drawn up by Mr George Henderson, from a journal kept about the centre of the parish, 190 feet above the level of the sea, during the years 1830 and 1831. * This account has b«en drawn up by the Ret. James Burns. FORFAR. I FORFARSHIRE. ISA). N.|S.IE| W. ■al 't E i! 1 1| 1 li ^i h j_ ill 1 Jnn. 3,4 11 ■)> 32 7 nch 211, 24 iOlh 28.34 30.4( 1)1 39.50 2 lit 1-VI.. 4 G IS 12 42 i2 12th 37. 35 eth 211.63 3 17 £4 7* 30ih 43 ao 2d 39 25 29-93 JSlh 2B.Bi 24tli M.y, S 6 1! II Id 67 GO 23d 49 40 Blh 29 W 2986 I4ih 29.02 28ih Ju/e, IS 3 IS 67 ;« Oih G9 47 l»(h 2».05 20.8.' inth 29.02 2«th July. 3 G 15 84 28th 50 l2ll. SOJiU 30.12 mb S9.06 Blh flug. IB B m Sfl l>8 3d 53 bO 2&ih 29.53 2908 ISlh 29.10 I2lh Si'jJt. 6 12 19 a? S6 SI Id IOtl> 3S.3fl 29.84 28.80 iOih Ocl. 7 H ao 9 fiS Olh 46 32 18th 29.113 30.S( lOlh 29.11) 2Blh Not. 6 14 .s 1, 14 46t 56 34 40 30 i4th 29.41 30. 1( 28.70 lOth Dec. 13 7 8 3 16 3fl 16 21m 32i 16 ^6th 29.2U 30.05 I5di 2B.7G 22d 7!) fiB 70 14r. IB3 IF IM 44 15 2D.49 30 40 28.72 1831? iHT ■^ "; 14 11 liii 46 3th 33 z M^ iOAC 30.00 6lh 20.00 ~ Feb. 2 lb 1^ 42 W I2tli 3« 2b Gth 2a25 29.87 22d 28,65 7th Mw. 7 2« 10 4J) l>3 2Slh 39 i4 29.32 30.15 SlM 2a42 I2lh Apr. 10 8 fl N JU 7« Ifilh 4.1 a vteh 29.34 30.16 Ut 28.80 8th M«T, * IS eo 74 lltli 43 ifl Gth 29.44 2ft 72 23d 28 90 Itt jJl ft 9 (14 76 I3tb 6S Ml 5(h 29 34 29.63 2a93 llth Tulj. 4 17 11 70 RO 3Ut 69 ^5 I4 28.48 7th Dec. e _[ 32 " 4a 'lU fllh %6 28 lOih 29.0fl 29 941 J8th 2ft3J 7lh 49 75 63 I7« 37 54 ii IT 34 29.:mi 30.11 28.24 Hydrography. — The only streani deserving llie name of a river is the South Esk, which intersects the whole of the parish from west to east, — taking its rise in the Grampians above Cortachie, and falling into the sea at the basin of Montrose. The general breadth is such that it is crossed by bridges of one, two, or three arches. Geology and Mineralogy. — The northern part of the parish is composed of the old red sandstone, the strata of which range from east to west. Its dip rs to the north ; its inclination about thirty-five degrees. It incloses within it two beds of limestone, of various dimensions. The fore bed is from eighteen inches to two feet in thickness. The back bed is composed of loose boulders, mixed with thin layers of argillaceous sandstone, having the same dip as the above. There are no animal or vegetable remains in the beds or the strata. There are found in the limestone veins of calcareous spar, which sometimes inclose crystals of sulphate of barytet. There are three lime- works in operation. The site of the town is partly on clay, and partly on alluvial BRECHIN. 131 sandy reposing on a gray sandstone. In the northern part of the parish there are several quarries in o))eration, wliich exiiibit a fine section of the gray sandstone. This rock is well ad£4)ted for building, being susceptible of a high polish, and bein^r of great du- rability, as the tower and spire attached to the cathedral (which have stood for 800 years without decomposition or decay,) abundantly prove. The position of the sandstone is nearly horizontal. No metals have been discovered in any part of the parish, so far as is known. Botany, — There are no native plants peculiar to this parish. The Linnea borealis^ which is very rare, is found in the woods of Kinnaird, lying partly in this and the neighbouring parish of Far- nelL The insects which are most injurious to fruit trees are the while American bugs imported from the London nurseries about thirty years ago, and now very prevalent in gardens around the town. Thej attack only apples. The various means for destroying them are washing with the refuse of gas-works, with black soap, whale oil, and with scalding-water, especially if potatoes have been boiled with it IL — Civil History. A map of the town and suburbs was published by Mr John Wood a few years ago, which seems sufficiently accurate and de- scriptive. Brechin Castle was, before the invention of artillery, a place of considerable strength, being romantipally situated on the top of a precipice. A ravine of considerable depth separates it on the east and north from the town; while the South Esk, here formed into a fine sheet of water, washes its southern base. Access to the for- tress was attained only through the gate in a wall, which was built to defend it on the western quarter. The brave Sir Tliomas Maule, proprietor of this stronghold, in the time of King Edward III. defied the forces of that prince sent to reduce it. Nor did it fall until a stone thrown by an engine slew the valiant defender, when the castle surrendered at discretion to the terms of the English inva- der. The proprietors of this place of renown, and of the extensive estates connected with it, have since that period boasted of the name of Maule. They were afterwards elevated to the peerage by .the title of Earls of Panmure. They lost this title in conse- quence of the Rebellion in 1715; but his present Majesty was pleased at his coronation to grant the title of Baron of Panmure 132 FORFARSHIRE. to the present proprietor, who had for many years considered it no small honour to be descended from his distinguished progenitor above alluded to. Eminent Persons. — Mr John Willison was settled here as ono of the ministers in times of Episcopacy, although a strict Presby- terian. He was translated to Dundee at the beginning of last century. He is the well-known author of various plain and prac- tical works on theology, particularly of the Afflicted Man's Com- panion, and of two treatises on the Lord's Supper, — not to mention the Mother's Catechism. Dr James Fordyce, the eloquent writer of Sermons to Young Women, of Addresses to Young Men, &c was ordained to the second charge of this parish about the time of the Rebellion in 1745. He continued in it for eight years, when he removed to Alloa, and soon afterwards to London. No less renowned than either of these, but of an earlier date, was Mr William Guthrie, proprietor of Pitforthy, in the neighbour- hood of this town, minister of Fenwick, in Ayrshire, author of a Scriptural and Practical Treatise on the way of obtaining and evidencing an Interest in Christ He died in JBrechin, and his re- mains are interred in the cathedral under the seat belonging to the ground of Pitforthy. He had been deprived of his charge at Fen- wick, to the great grief of his people, because of his resistance to Episcopacy. Of illustrious men still alive, it is sufficient to mention the names of Dr John Gillies, historiographer to his Majesty for Scotland, and of his brother, the Honourable Adam Gillies, one of the Sena- tors of the College of Justice. * Heritors. — The chief heritors or land-owners, are Sir James Carnegie of Southesk, Bart., the Honourable Lord Panmure, the Earl of Fife, Mr Chalmers of Auldbar, Mr Hunter of Esk- mount, Mr Cruikshank of Keithock, and Mr Speid of Ardovie. These three last named have mansion-houses within this parish, — in general very commodious and elegant. Parochial Registers. — The acts or minutes of session commence in the year 1615, and are contmued from thence until 1700, at which period there is a break for two or three years. After this they are continued to May 1724, when another blank occurs, till 1786; * Patrick de -Senebay, George Shorewood) John Sinclair, William Maitland, and Norman Sievrigfat) were also eminent persons connected with this parish. See Sir John Sinclair's Statistical Account. BRECHIN. 133 mfter which they are complete to the present date. In the register <»f baptisms, the earUest entry is in 1612; from which time the re- pster is continued without any interruption to 1725, when it be- comes imperfect, and consists of occasional entries made on de- tached leaves, or folded sheets, till the year 1753; from which time it is continued to the present. The register of marriages, or rather of proclamations, conunences in 1700, and continues for a few yearsj but downwards to 1784 it is very defective. There are some proclamations recorded betwixt 1749 and 1781 ; but for many years prior to 1749 there is no record existing. JbUiquiiiet. — There are in the upper part of th& town ruins of the ancient chapel of Maison Dieu, an alm's-house connected with the cathedral, now covered with a roof, and used for the humble purpose of a stable. The round-tower adjoining the cathedral, complete and well built, probably of Pictish origin, has been often and long admired, while the purposes for which it has been erect- ed have been matter of various conjecture. Two bells, formerly placed within it, have been of late years transferred to the square tower beside it, which contains another large bell and a good clock. The west end of the cathedral, repaired upwards of twenty years ago, and forming a handsome parish church, was originally built by King David L in the eleventh century. It has two rows of pil- lars, with Gothic arches, and a large and elegant window on the west. The eastern part or choir, in which some special rites of the church of Rome were performed, was thrown down at the time of the Reformation. There is a burial place ^t the eastern extremity of the parisli, which receives the name of Magdalene's Chapel, although no traces of a place of worship now remain. Modem Buildings. — Towards the north end of the town, near the old chapel in Maison Dieu Wynd, there is a chapel for the use of the Scottish Episcopalians, built about twenty years ago, and enlarged and beautified last year, particularly on the west end, which is neatly finished iivith two minarets on each side of the cross in the centre. There are four Presbyterian meeting-houses, whicli are plain, commodious edifices ; — one of them was till lately used as an English Episcopal chapel. The town-house, in the middle of the town, near the cross or market-place, was almost wholly rebuilt about thirty years ago, and is now a respectable edifice. It con- tains an excellent guild-hall on the second floor, with two smaller rooms for the meeting of council, and a court-room and prison be- low. The public school-rooms, three in number, built by sub- 134 FORPARSHIR^. scription several years ago, are a great ornament to the west end of the town, being surrounded by a neat belfry and dial-plate. There are threshing and spinning-mills, named East and Meikle Mill, ad- joining the town ; and one at Arrat's Mill, towards the eastern ex- tremity of the parish. III. — Population. At the date of last Statistical Account in 1790-91, the population was - 5000 By the census in 1811, ..... 5559 1821, ..... 5906 1831, ..... 6508 Of which number about 5000 reside in the burgh, and the remainder in the country. 1. Number of fiimilies in the parish, .... 1673 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 300 chiefly employed in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, 1030 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 144 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 469 3. The arerage number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, (conjectural, — as the dissenters do not register the baptisms of their children,) - 150 ofdeaths, ..... 100 of marriages, .... 55 4. The number of houses inhabited, ..... 900 uninhabited, .... 32 5. The number of fatuous persons, ..... 24 blind, ... - - 10 deaf and dumb, - - . . 3 The only nobleman who resides in this parish is Lord Panmure at Brechin Castle. Few of the other chief heritors have residences in the parish. All of them are proprietors of land of L. 50 a-year and upwards, excepting the feuars at Little Brechin, who possess and occupy a few acres each taken from what was lately the com- mon moor. Character and Habits oftlie People. — Not much can be said in favour of the habits of the ordinary class of inhabitants, as to clean- liness in their persons and habitations. There are, however, many honourable exceptions. The usual food of the peasantry is milk and meal, and potatoes. The poorer people in the town use as much of the same articles as they can procure. Now and then a little butcher-meat is added. They enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of society, and seem in general contented with their situation. It is but seldom that insubordination or other effects of discontent ap- pear among them. Some of them are very shrewd and intelligent. Many of them are fond of reading, especially history and practical BllECIIlN. 135 dieology. Their moral and religious character is fully equal to tliat of their neighbours in the adjacent towns and villages ; and though there are instances of intemperance and dishonesty, it will bear a comparison with that of most towns in Scotland. In former times it was remarked, that the Sabbath was better observ- ed here than in some other places of equal or greater extent. But the increase of inhabitants has been attended with no improvement in the manner of keeping that sacred day. Poaching in the river is sometimes practised. Smuggling is almost unheard of since the l^al distilleries were established. IV. — Industry. AgTricuUwre and Rural Economy. Land cultiTatedy or occasionally in tillage, ... f>S0t2 Acres. never cultivated, ..... 2770 capable of being cultivated with a profitublu application of capitiU, in undivided conunon, .... under plantation, ..... 3268 m natural woods, ..... o Total number of imperial acres in the parish, 15840 The kinds of trees generally planted on moors are Scotch firs, with sometimes a mixture of larch and spruce, sometimes larch alone. In belts of planting, and in gentlemen's policies, and where there is depth of soil, there is no more soft wood planted than is necessary for shelter to the hard-wood of different kinds. The soft wood is cut out after a few years. Rent of Land. — The average rent of land may be about L. 1, 7s. per imperial acre. Land in grass is generally let for the season at from 20s. to 35s. per imperial acre. The real rent of the parish is about L. 13,000. Rate of Wages. — Labourers for draining and other farm work, receive about 9s. per week for the year ; women for out-of-door work, 4s. The rate of wages for masons runs from 12s. to 14s. per week, according to the season of the year; that of carpenters is 2s. per day. Breeds of Live Stock. — The breed of sheep is in general the black-faced; but few of this description of animals are kept. The breed of cattle is mostly that of the county of Angus ; but of late years there is a mixture of the short-horned or Tees-water breed, and a few Ayrshire cows. Hnsbandri/. — The management of cattle is well understood and 136 FORFARSHIRE. attended to ; so also is draining of land. No irrigation, and but little embankment, is required. The length of leases is generally nineteen years,— leases of this duration being considered as more favourable than those for a shorter period. The state of farm-build-* ings and enclosures is good, the buildings being usually of stone and lime, and slated. Improvements have been general throughout the parish during the last twenty or thirty years. Defective leases and insufficient accommodation are unknown. From the fifth to the sixth part of the farms is sown with turnips, or planted with pota- toes, unless when they are adapted for wheat, in which case a pro* portion is fallowed. Very few beet or cabbages are cultivated. No meadow hay is raised in the parish. Of flax there are only a few acres for domestic purposes. Land in pasture is let at a certain rate per head of cattle, or by the acre, — from 20s. to 25s. per im- perial acre, and sometimes as high as 45s. and even 60s., according to the soil and situation. Agricultural Society. — The Eastern Forfarshire Farming Asso- ciation was instituted here in 1814, under the patronage of the Honourable William Maule, now Lord Panmure, who is its per- petual president The Association holds two shows annually on the Trinity Muir, in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, the one in spring, the other in autunm, at which premiums are award- ed for cattle of different ages and breeds ; for fat cattle of the best synmietry and weight ; for brood mares and breeding cows ; for stallions and young horses of various ages, and occasionally for im- proved agricultural implements. The average number of members who pay one guinea or upwards yearly to the funds is about 160. The institution has all along continued to prosper under the aus- pices of its munificent patron and president, and has been very be- neficial to the interests of agriculture in the eastern part of For- farshire. Manufactures. — The branches of manufacture are heckling, spinning, weaving, and bleaching. There may be employed in heckling about 30 men and women; in spinning 200; in weaving from 1000 to 1500 ; in bleaching from 40 to 50. The hours of la- bour are twelve each day for those employed in the spinning and bleaching works. The wages paid them may be considered as a pretty fair remuneration. Those employed in the above branches are in general healthy. Some of the young people attending the mill receive week-day and Sabbath evening instruction at school : but education is on the wliole not much attended to; and instances BRECHIN. 137 of immorality now and then occur. Besides the above branches of manufiuturey two distilleries for spirits from malt have been for some time erected in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, and are in full operation. Quarries^ — There are three lime-works at present in full opera- tion, and several freestone quarries of excellent quality. Nuneries. — There are three nurseries in the neighbourhood of the town, consisting of about twenty-five imperial acres, and sup- plying a large district with forest trees of all kinds, as also fruit trees, ornamental shrubs, and bushes, &c All of these are in full employment, and kept in the best order. The principal green crop is turnips, but a considerable extent of land is planted with potatoes for domestic purposes, and feeding cattle ; very few potatoes are raised for exportation. Wheat is generally sown after the potatoe crop. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish may be as follows. Ofgrain of aU kinds, &0. .... L. 37,713 Of potatoes, &c ...... 10,500 Of haj, whether meadow or cultivated, ... 3^200 Of crops cultiyated for the arts, as flax, - - almost none. Ofknd in pasture, &c ..... 3^15 Of gardens and orchards, .... 800 Of the annual thinning, &c. of woods, &c - 300 Of fisheries, &c. in South £sk, . - ... 50 . . (stone, 800 ^^^^' {lime, 1,200 Of miscellaneous produce, &c. Nurseries, • - 1,000 L. 59,678 V. — Parochial Economy, Market'Toum. — Brechin is the only market-town in this district, and serves for several miles of the country adjacent The trade here is mostly that of weavers, besides the usual handicrafts. There is no great establishment of police, — there being only three town- officers, and three men for sweeping the streets; besides a body of constables, consisting of the younger part of the inhabitants. Means of Communication, — There is a regular daily post The postman arrives on foot from Montrose about eight in the morn- ing, and departs at half-past three in the afternoon; and there is a ninnpr to Forfar every lawful day. There are about seven miles of turnpike road, — one-half towards Forfar, the other towards Aberdeen. Nearly the half of the turnpike of eight miles to Mon- 12S FORFARSHIRE. tn»e is in this pansh. Two coaches run every lawful day betwixt Edinbofgh and Aberdeen, passing through the town. There is also a noddy to and from Montrose* and a caravan to and from Arbroath on Tuesday, which is market-day. There is an ancient bridge at the fewer part of the town, or tenements, on the old roads to Arbroath and For€ur, necessary for the adjoining country to the south ; — and a new one fauehr erected at Stannachy ford, which is intended to serve for a Une of rood just now b^un, both for Dun« dee and Arbroath. The fences of hedges and stone-dikes are in good condition. They are mudi increased and improved of late vears.. A rait-road to Montrose has often been talked of, but no- thing is yet done. We have heard also of the project of a canal, and of deepening and widenii^ the river South Esk. Ekxk^iasikmJ Siaite. — The ^urch is in the centre of the town and parish* in exceUent repair, but very dedcient in acconunoda- tion &vr the part^xiers. — containing only 1500 sittings. There is iK» place above four nules distant. The pastoral charge is collegiate. The first minister has neither nMiise nor gtebei but possesses a house built from the fonds of the KxclHH|uor up^'iurds of fifty years ago, in place of the bishop's pa- laiHS and some excellent garden ground, of neariy an acre in ex- tent. The sti[Hnut, as lately augmented and modified, consists of 19 cImUlors of gniin, half barley, half oatmeal, including 3 J bolls of whoat, l)osides L. 10 for furnishing communion elements. The MH'ond minister has both manse and glebe. The manse was re- luiilt about thirty years ago. The glebe is six acres of good ground to tlio west of the town, near Brechin Castle; he has 17 chalders of Kriiin, besides L.21 from Bishop's rents, and L. 10. for conunu- nion olements. Each minister dispenses the communion once in llio ytmr, in the months of May and October. The stipend of mvU minister converted to monev varies from L. 230 to L. 300 M-yiMir. Tluire are no less than four Presbyterian meeting-houses in lliM (own ; two of the United Secession Church, one of the Ori- g\ml hwjceders, formerly called Antiburghers, and a Relief, for- merly lui English Episcopal chapel. There is one Scotch Epis- iMtniil chapel, attended by most of the gentlemen's families in the MMi|llil>ourhood ; and by a good many of all ranks in the town. The mlMi>*t^r has a good dwelling-house, given to him individually by W\W ^f his richest hearers. One of the United Secession mini- as part of his living. None of the above clergy- BRECHIN. 139 ■ gBC give above Lb 100 a-year, arising from seat rents and col- lections. Tbejre are 2 or 3 Roman Catholics in this parish, but there is no priest nearer than Dundee, The number of families attending the Established church is about 900 ; of families attending the chapels of Dissenters about 400; of fiEunilies attending the chapel of Episcopalians about 60, Tlie average number of conununicants at the parish church is about 1400 each time the communion is dispensed. Tliere is a Bible and missionary society in the town. The ave- rage amount of their subscriptions and donations is about L. 50 a-year, nearly the half of that sum being contributed by each, be- sides occasional collections. These last vary from L. 10 to L.20 annually. Education. — There are nine schools in the parish, besides three or four for females only. Two of the former in the town, and one of the latter have each a salary. Two in the country are supported partly by the kirk-session ; one of them from a small sum mortified by Mr Johnston, minister here, about sixty years ago. There is one parochial school ; in which the branches of education taught are, reading English, writing, arithmetic, English grammar, geography, Greek, Latin, French, book-keeping, and practical mathematics. The same are taught, more or less, in the other schools. The pa- rochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 34, 4s. 4d. The amount of school fees for some years has been about L. 70. No house or garden is given by the heritors. In lieu of the parochial school acconuno- dation an allowance of L. 10 a-year is granted by the magistrates from the funds of the burgh, agreeably to a stipulation entered in- to betwixt them and the heritors in the year 1808, when a regu- lar parish school was first established. The yearly expense of education, in reading only, is 10s. ; in reading and writing, 16s. ; when arithmetic is added, it is 18s. ; and with Latin, it is L. 1, 4s. A vacancy having lately occurred in one of the public schools, steps are in the course of being taken, before filling up the vacancy, to remodel the system of education that has hitherto prevailed in this place, and to put the schools on a more efficient footing, by adopting the modem plan of dividing the branches among three different teachers, each of them having a salary independently of the others. The people in general set a high value on education. Very few, indeed, can neither read nor write ; and none in the parish are at a very inconvenient distance from one school or another. 140 forfahshire. Seldom does so touch ignorance appear as sometimes did twenty or thirty years ago. Yet morals cannot be said to have improved in proportion to the means of instruction. LMerature. — There is a parish library, consisting of about 600 books of a useful and religious kind : and each of our two booksel- lers has a circulating library. There is usually a public news- room : and a printing press has lately been established. Charitable Institutions. — There is here an institution called the Hospital of Maison Dieu, which gives small weekly allowances to poor residenters, widows, and children of burghers. There is also a public dispensary, established several years ago, chiefly by means of a legacy from the late Mrs Speid of Ardovie, and supported by subscription from some of the heritors and other inhabitants. It is very usefuL The patients average 73 in number for the last eight years. There are several friendly societies, both for males and females in distress ; but most of them are expiring from want of encouragement, or from wrong calculations. They surely tend to create a spirit of independence and of frugality. We have also a society of ladies for relieving aged and indigent women, about 60 in number, who receive one shilling monthly. It was instituted in 1810. Savings BanL — There is a savings bank chiefly employed by servants, who are sober and industrious. The amount invested from September 1832, to September 1833, was L. 595, 9s. lid. : with- drawn in the same time L. 659, 12s. 9d. Poor and Poori Funds. — From 60 to 200 paupers receive aid from the session funds. The former number consists of weekly pen- sioners, at Is.; on an average, widows with children receive from Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. according to their necessities. The funds for their relief arise from the collections at church, and some garden rents belong- ing to the session ; besides 200 sittings in the church, fines and mort- cloths, — the whole amounting to about L. 250. Last year they rose as high as L. 340, 7s. ; but an extraordinary call was then made upon the heritors. There is as yet no assessment, but it is feared, if the poor and abo Dissenters increase in number, that recourse must be had to it. Some are slow in applying for parochial aid, but others are too ready to seek it. An assessment, it is well known, greatly increases this propensity. Prisons. — There are too often some prisoners in our jail, usual- ly for debt, sometimes for bad conduct. During the last year (1831) there were confined for debt, 14j on criminal charges, 20. BRECHIN. 141 Tbe prison is tolerably well secured. An attempt was made about two years ago to escape by the ceiling, but was discovered in time to prerent it. To promote a current of air, an iron door with grating has been lately erected. Two apartments have each a window ; the black hole has a small opening only to let in air, and a feeble light. The superintendence is in the hands of the ma- gistrates* Fairsj Sfc* — There are several fairs or markets in the parish. TIic celebrated Trinity Muir market is held at a mile's distance from the town, four times in the year. The one held in the month of June is by &r the best attended. At the terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas there are very considerable markets held on the streets for the hiring of servants, as well as for the sale of merchants' goods. Maikets for horses and cattle are held for several weeks in winter and spring every Tuesday, which is the weekly market day ; but butcher-meat of the best quality, and especially mutton, can be had at any time in abundance. iimtw— There are by far too many inns and other public houses,— upwards of sixty in the town and tenements, — besides three or four in the country part of the parish. Their effects on morals arc in many cases very bad. Fueh — The chief fuel is coal brought by land-carriage from Montrose. An ordinary cart-load costs 5s. in addition to the price of the coals at the shore. Some wood is got in the neigh- bourhood, on which the poor depend much for fueL It is not al- ways honestly come by. There arc no peats nearer than Amhall in the Meams ; of course they are but little made use of. Miscellaneous Observations. There are striking changes, both in the personal appearance of the people and in places, within the last thirty years. Much bet- ter houses are built, both in the town and country. Far more hedges are planted ; and other kinds of fences are more complete. The alteration in the dress of both sexes is very remarkable. Bonnets and plaids, then common, are now almost exploded. The desire of knowledge is increasing, and a love of reading is pretty ge- neral. On the whole, the people have many advantages of which it is to be hoped not a few of them are sensible. Drawn up January 1833. Revised December 1833. PARISH OF DUNNICHEN. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JAMES HEADRICK, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries. — Some difference of opinion exists con- cerning the origin of the name Dunnichen. Most people derive it from Nechtan, a Pictish chieftain, who is said to have resided in the parish. But although it has been the uniform practice of the Gael to name persons from their place of residence, they never named places from persons. I am, therefore, disposed to think that Dun- nichen is a corruption of Dun-Achan^ the hill or fort of the val- ley. This is exactly descriptive of the hill of Dunnichen, which, on the north, looks down on the lochs of Rescobie and Balgaies ; towards the east, upon the whole valley of the Lunan ; towards the west, upon Forfar and its contiguous loch, and through Strathmore, until the view is bounded by ShehaUien and the Perthshire Gram- pians. From the west of this hill the water flows down through Strathmore, and from the east it flows towards the Lunan and Lunan Bay. From the south side of the hill a low shoulder is projected, on which there once stood a fort built with dry stone, without any cement It is agreed at all hands that the parish de- rived its name from this fort or castle. The foundation of a si- milar fort is still visible on the hill of Dunbarrow, a detached part of this parish. The parish consists of three estates or properties, detached from each other ; and in whole contains 4024 Scotch acres. Topographical Appearances. — There are no elevations in this parish which can claim the name of mountains. The hill of Dunnichen is the most elevated part; its highest pinnacle was ascertained to be 800 feet above the level of the sea. This hill, with a few exceptions, is covered with soil, and is planted or cultivated to its summit The hill of Dunbarrow may be about 700 feet above the sea. Dunnichen House, situated near the DrNMCIIEN. 143 foot of the southern slope of Dunnichen Hill, is the most northern house of the parish, and was ascertained to be 400 feet above the sea, and distant from the sea, at Arbroath, about ten miles. The medium elevation of the whole parish may be about 360 feet above the sc^a leveL The lands of Dunnichen consist of gentle undula- tions or ridges running from west to east, their greatest and most rapid descent being towards Vinney Water on the south. The lands of Tulloes have a very gentle rise from Vinney Water to the summit of the ridge which separates them from Carmyllie on the south ; and this ridge may be about 600 feet above the sea. The lands of Duubarrow rise in all directions towards the hill, their steepest acclivity being towards the north-west ileteoTohgy. — In general, the cHmate is very similar to that which prevails over a great part of the east of Scotland. The trees, where fully exposed, lean somewhat towards the north-east, showing the prevailing winds to be from the south-west. During spring, and sometimes even in summer, chilling blasts from the east and north-east prevail, with their usual injurious effects : and they are often accompanied by hazy mist, here named eastern hoar. Geology and Mineralogy. — Excepting where they have been laid open by quarries, and a few juttings of whinstone rocks, the strata are uniformly covered by a considerable depth of soil. Sandstone, or freestone, constitutes the great body of our solid strata. These are sometimes seen to alternate with beds of indu- rated clay, which consist of thin plates of a whitish gray, reddish, or bluish colour, here known by the name of cam-stone, because they are used for writing on slates, and, when pounded, are used for whitening hearths, stairs, &c. These clay strata are some- times penetrated by the roots of plants, of a blackish colour ; and sometimes impressions of plants, and of their leaves, are seen upon the surfaces of their plates. Numerous fragments of what appears to have been rushes, of a bluish-green colour, appear in some of these indurated clay strata. Some of the freestone beds are subdivisible into plates of various thickness, the surfaces of which exhibit woody fibres, and have a striking resemblance to polished boards of wainscot. Although our sandstone beds be in- tersected by numerous fissures, which subdivide them into masses which more or less affect a parallelepiped form, having two opposite angles acute, and the other two obtuse ; they are nowhere seen to be intersected by veins of trap or whinstone, or of any other 144 FOHFARSHIRE. materiaL I once picked up a few fragments of heavy spar, some of which were tinged with a green colour from copper, on the southern declivity of the highest pinnacle of Dunnichen Hill, which must have come from a vein of that material which is con- cealed by the soil. But the greatest metallic repositories in the world have been discovered by accident, or exposed to view by streams of water. For this purpose, in Cornwall and other places, they conduct streams of water artificially across the decli- vity of the mountains. The sandstone in the castle quarry of Dunnichen dips to the north about five feet in twenty -four, making an angle with the ho- rizon of 12^. This quarry furnishes excellent mill-stones for grinding com. It also furnishes stones of large dunensions, which can be easily dressed and polished immediately after they are raised, but if allowed to remain some time, no tool can penetrate them. In some of its beds there are rounded pebbles of jasper, quartz and agate, mterspersed. The sandstone of Tulloes dips to the south-east four feet eight inches in twenty-four, mak- ing an angle with the horizon of IP. Our sandstone, or free- stone, is generally of a grayish-white colour. Some of it inclines to blue. Where the trap or whinstone rocks jut above the smface, they appear to be a confused mass, without any stratification or regular arrangement of parts. But where they have been dug into, they are found to be as regularly stratified as the sandstone on which they rest, and by which they are covered towards the dip. On the southern face of the hill of Dunnichen, there are a few jutting rocks of trap, some of which is fatiscent, as it decomposes in concentric scales. Other parts have numerous particles of steatites, of a dirty yellowish-white colour, interspersed, and, from the resemblance to that animal, have obtained the name of toad-stone. On the farm of Pinkerton, there is a confused very porous stratum of trap cover- ing a freestone quarry. On the farm of Broadlea, there is another jutting rock of that species of trap which is called greensttme. This rock has of late been much quarried for stones to mend the roads, and is found to be composed of several very regular strata, each of which is made up of blocks of various dimensions, of which some afiect the rude columnar form. These strata dip to the north- east at the rate" of nine feet in twenty-four, and malce an angle with the horizon of 21*^. All the visible rocks of the hill of Dum- 4 DUNNICHEN. Uf) barrow are trap ; and these include all the visible tnip rocks in this parish. A thin silicious incrustation sometimes intersects our trap rocks. In other cases there are hollows lined with a silicious in- crustation, from which beautiful rock crystals project towards the centre of the hollow. On the summit and sides of the hill of Dunnichen there are seve- * ral large loose masses of mica-slate and granite. Large granite stones, which interrupted the plough, were dug up some years ago, on the farm of Broadlea. A large mass of granite was lately blasted to the north of Letham ; and many stones of these kinds occur, or have been discovered, in various parts of the parish, all more or less rounded by attrition. There being no rock of these stones nearer than the Grampians, we are puzzled to account for their getting into their present position. In the beautiful mass of granite that was blasted near Letham, I observed fragments of dark- blue whinstone interspersed in the body of the stone. Tlie quality of our soils may be inferred from that of the rocks which they cover, and from whose decomposition th^ have been formed. A large sheet of good soil slopes from the south side of Dunnichen Hill. In the upper part, this soil is too shallow, and too near the rock. It deepens as it descends, and may be de- scribed as a friable loam, in which sand predominates. It seems to have been made up of particles washed down from the hill above. In the different ridges of the parish, where the soil is .primary, the subsoil is always tenacious, or impervious to mois- ture. Of course it is apt to throw up nishes, Sphagnum palus" trey and other moss-plants. This sort of soil prevails on the summit of those ridges of which the estate of Dunnichen is com- posed. The only exception is that of soils formed from the decom- position of trap-rocks, which are always fertile, provided they be of sufficient depth. On the estate of Tulloes, the lower part is an alluvial haugh soil, and becomes less fertile as you advance to the higher grounds. The same observation applies to the estate of Dumbarrow, which is least fertile at the higher parts, where the soil is primary, but becomes deeper and more fertile as we descend. In a word, the soils of this parish may be ranked under two classes, — ^friable loams, in which sand predominates ; and friable clays, with a retentive subsoil. Most of the stones which were injurious to agriculture have been removed to make drains, mend the roads, FORFAR. K 146 FORFARSHIRE. and for other purposes : some operations of these kinds arc, how- ever, still necessary. Hydrography. — There is a small chalybeate spring on the north side of the drain leading*from the loch of Dimnichen ; from which some people have thought they found relief in stomach complaints. A much more copious spring of the same quality, although not so strongly impregnated, has its fountain head on the north-west cor- ner of Dumbarrow, although it breaks out in the parish of Kirkden. The only loch in the parish is what is commonly called the Mire of Dunnichen. This occupies a space of about fifty acres, and has been partially drained for marl, and converted into pasture land. But, to render the improvement effectual, the drain would require to be made five or six feet deeper, and concealed drains thrown out on each side of it, to take off springs which rise from different parts of its bottom. The only running-water in the parish is the small rivulet of Vinney Water, which rises in the parish of Forfar, from what was the loch of Lower, but is now completely drained, and converted into fertile land. This rivulet, after receiving some smaller streams in its pro- gress, joins Lunan Water near Pitmuies, in the parish of Kirkden. IL — Civil History. Antiquities, — The stones of the fort or castle, before referred to, have been removed to build fences ; and its area has been nearly obliterated by a quarry. On its floor was found a thick bed of wood ashes, mixed with numerous bones, which seem to have be- longed to the animals on which the inhabitants fed. In one place there is said to have been found a number of small golden bullets, which seem to have been the current coin of the times when they were formed. A confused tradition prevails of a great battle having been fought on the East Mains of Dunnichen, between Lothus King of the Picts, or his son Modred, and Arthur King of the Britons, in which that hero of romance was slain. Buchanan, no doubt, places the scene of that battle upon the banks of the Humber, in England. But it is probable that some battle had been fought here ; for, a good many years ago, on the East Mains of Dunnichen, there was turned up with the plough a large flat stone, on which is cut a rude outline of an armed warrior's head and shoulders ; and not many years ago, the plough also uncovered some graves on another part of the same fann. These graves consisted of flat stones on all DUNNICHEN. 147 sides. They were filled with human bones, and urns of red clay, with rude ornaments upon them ; the urns being fdled with whitish- gray ashes. By exposure to the air, the bones and the urns moul- dered into dust In a round gravel knoll near the Den of Letham, a consider- able number of similar graves was found. The graves were situ- ated in a thick bed of fine sand, which intersected the knoll; and were constructed every way similar to the former. They contain- ed human bones, which seem to have been crammed together without much regard to arrangement. The urns with their ashes were every way similar to the former. The neck-bones of some were adorned with strings of beads. These were of a beautiful glossy black colour, neatly perforated longitudinally, and strung together by the fibres of animals. They were of an oval figure; laige and small ones were arranged alternately ; the large ones flat on the two opposite surfaces, the small ones round. They seemed to consist of ebony, or of some fine-grained species of wood, which had been charred, and then finely polished. On keeping them some time, they split into plates, and the woody fibres sepa- rated. The bones also, and the urns, mouldered into dust. In some of these graves rusty daggers were found, which fell in pieces by handling. It appears the bodies had been first burnt, as the ashes contained numerous particles of charcoal of wood. Land-aumers. — The parish, as formerly stated, is divided into three properties, namely, Dunnichen, Tulloes, and Dumbarrow. James Hawkins, Esq. advocate, is heir-apparent to the estate of Dunnichen. He resides at Dininichen House, and is the onlv re- siding heritor. Tulloes belongs to John Oughterlony, Esq. of Guynd. Dumbarrow belongs to Alexander Lyall, Esq. of Gardyne. Eminent Persons. — The only person of eminence we ever heard of connected with the parish, is the late George Dempster, Esq. who was many years member of Parliament for the Forfar, Dundee, &c district of burghs ; but his character and conduct are too well known to require any illustration. III. — Population. The population, as taken by the Government census, was In the year 1801, - - 1049 1811, . - 1233 1821, . . 1433 1831, - . 1513 In the census of 1831, there were foimd in the parish 331 inha- OVi^l'^^ '"''"■ Wveft:/ <^^s"f ^'" 3^» Canutes? ^' ite o^ >":_.„ bands. ^^ ^^^.^ »nd ^^'^_^ ^otn ^«^ jses. o«« ^rlsX^"""' \tvto tY\e \3^ ea^ >to \st Jatvu*^ \893, 16 \6 \4 16 16 ft VI 13 \6 19 32 36 3^ 1830, \83\ 2D 2D 16 IB 13 \^ 2D 23^ 2D1 33 33 4D 40 33 43B \1 .w lt9» iVvati e(¥ nsAs, eats, tVe ^^^^^ ^eo caxtv tou' c\v tbe e%<=«*i:;n tVveT"*' a gres g' eat«^' of to a\e9 «««^^f Ia. Aanng over aiv - . , B«t, «« ^^f, "' oHetoa^"gVn*e¥*^* a ^^"^^ Vat fids *»* indwa'^' «r returned. s ^^^Xo^etA^ .^ ^r^^ WaJa^°:^? „ Vrov\- o\eT setv vievet CV^«^^ «-^«"l'et^ tVve«^- ' v.o«vetv,t\,tbNtVve*«¥«' tobeiVvei:;^:„wV)Ot- tiv\i to V^^ »ViAe tor A^i>^ st^v. i? ri ■nd l\l\9 ^^ iv.- \tv u\\»«<^ IS of Scotch actc» suHWai .ted ot '^^^""rc.^HWsted, ,^,,tedotV- AflXiteA, \3ivc TViat toig^^ be ex T^\e s^f """i;!* *>««' ^"^ aWsV^^^^ IS vfbs^^ '^^ ca 494 494 4\4 A\cA t\^^ ste«t^ DUNMCIIEN. Hf) ternate, which consists of interposing a gri^en crop, or naked fallow, between every two corn crops. At first breaking up from lea, oats •re sown ; then turnips and potatoes drilled ; next barley, witb rye- grass and clover; next pasture, for one or more years. Sometimes, when the land is in very good heart, two or more crops of oats arc taken al first breaking up. Sometimes wheat is sown after pota- toes, and sometimes on clover-lea, with addition of manure: if after potatoes, or naked fallow, the grass seeds are always sown dong with it. But for some years past the seasons have l)een so unfavouralile at the critical time of flowering and fructifying, and the wheat has been so much destroyed by the fly, that the cuhi- vation of this grain has been almost abandoned, and barley substi- tuted in its place. Formerly wheat was always sown after naked fallow ; and a part sometimes after ])otatoes or clover leiu Now, with wheat, the extent of naked fallow is very much reduced, and barley is sown upon the potatoe and tuniip Umd, which receives all the manure. Of late the turnip husbandry has been extended by bone dust, which raises a good crop on light sandy ground, but does not seem to succeed so well on stiff* clays. The store-masters of the Grampians send down their flocks of sheep to feeil on these turnips during winter, and they are confined to three drills at a time by means of flakes. They prefer these wooden flakes to nets, because the sheep being of the horned black-faced breed, their horns might get entangled in the nets, and tear them in pieces. The kinds of turnips cultivated here are the globe, the green and red-tops, or rather a mixture of all. A portion of (he yellow turnip is in every field ; but, unless the seeds themselves were to be raised, they seldom can be got unmixed. Every farmer has also a few drills of curly kail in his turnip field. The grains cultivated are the potatoe -oat, of which they frequently change the seed ; the two-rowed barley ; the white Essex wheat, of which they receive frequent change of seed from London or the Carse of Gowrie; graypeasin some places, — drilled beans having been tried, but not found to succeed. Some farmers also sow portions of vetches, as green fodder for their live stock. Various kinds of potatoes have prevailed here at different times ; but the kinds most in vogue at present are the large globidar red, and the small Ame- rican of a white colour. Shell marl from the Loch of Ilestenneth, which belongs to the estate of Dunnichen, although in the parish of Forfar, has been a powerful instrument of improvement in this quarter. It is com- 150 FORFARSHIRE. inonly applied in compost with earth and dung to turnips or to wheat when sown upon naked fallow, or upon hay-stubble. The ploughmen here are very expert, and some of them have been carried to Ireland, and other distant places. Some of them are mar- ried, and live in cottages annexed to the farm-house. But most of them are unmarried, and live in what are called bothies^ contiguous to the farm-house. Each receives a certain allowance of meal and milk, potatoes and other articles, besides wages, which vary from L. 10 to L. 15 or L. 20, according to circumstances. The reap- ing is mostly performed by threaving, but partly by the scythe. Much of the estate of Dunnichen is but one step removed from the runrig, or rig and rennel system, which still prevails in some parts of the Highlands. However, as leases fall, it is now in the course of being lotting into separate farms, and commodious farm- offices are building. The two-horse plough, of Small's construction, is universally in use. The cattle, and sometimes also the horses, are fed on turnips during winter, along with straw or other fodder. Sometimes, also, they get a feed of yams or other potatoes ; but the surplus of potatoes generally goes to feed pigs. There are two corn-mills upon the estate of Dunnichen, at Craichy and Letham; the latter also fabricates pot-barley. Tliere is also a corn-mill at Dumbarrow. There are four thrashing-ma- chines at Dumbarrow, two of which are moved by water, one by horses, and one by wind. There are two on the estate of Tulloes, one moved by horses, the other by water. On the estate of Dun- nichen there are seven thrashing-machines, one moved by water, the rest by horses, — in ?ill thirteen in the parish. Breeds of Live Stock. — There are no sheep kept in the parish. The kind of cattle which most generally prevails is the Galloway breed, sometimes here called humlies^ because they have no horns. Although this breed has been much cultivated in Gralloway, it does not seem to be peculiar to that district; for I have seen individuals without horns among the middle-horned breeds in various parts of the Highlands and Isles. There are also a very few of the middle- horned breed of Fife extraction, and still fewer of the short-horned or Tees-water breed. The milch cows here, during the best of the season, yield from twelve to fourteen Scotch pints of milk a-day. The milk is generally skimmed, the cream made into butter, and the milk into skimmed-milk cheese. The cattle that are put to pasture in DUNMCHEN. 151 grass^parks are of all descriptions, and .are bought at the neigh- bouring fairs. Produce, — The average gross amount and value of raw produce raised yearly, on an average of the last five years, is as follows : — 1240 acres of com and other grains of all kiiids, valued at an average of L. 7 |>cr Scotch acre, - - - - - L. 8680 465 acres of potatoes, turnips, and other green crop, valued at L. 10 peracre, - ..... 46j0 150 acres of summer fallow, .... 465acre8of hay, valued at L. 6 per acre, ... 2790 792 acres of pasture, valued at L. 2 per acre, - - 1584 968 acres of uncultivated land at 5s. per acre, ... 247 414 acres of wood, thinnings of which valued at, - - 20 Produce of quarries, - - - - - - - 2000 Dairy produce, 399 10 Sales oflive stock annually, ..... 1240 Gross amount of value, L. 19630 10 Manufacture8.^^T!\ie principal, indeed the only staple manufac- ture of the parish, is the weaving of coarse linens, called Osna- burghs. Along with this, some occasional work is done in sheeting and shirting, but chiefly for private use. Many of the families en- gaged in this work have small farms, held either in lease or feu, which they cultivate at their leisure hours. There is a spinning- mill in the Den of Letham, moved by the water of Vinney, for spinning lint and tow into yarn. This mill is furnished with a steam- engine to move the machinery when the water is deficient But I understand they have had no occasion to have recourse to steam these several years past Formerly, spinning was the peculiar province of the women. But since the spinning-mills have become so numerous, they have betaken themselves to weaving, and there are nearly as many women now employed at the loom as men. Al- though some attempts have been made to introduce power-looms, they have not been found to answer for the coarse fabrics of this district All weaving is done by the piece. At present, every person who is willing to work finds employment There is, how- ever, a general complaint of the lowness of wages, although none of the highness of provisions. V. — Parochial Economy. Marhet'Townsj Sfc. — The principal village in the parish is Le- tham, which, with its adjuncts, contains upwards of 900 souls. It was laid out on a very regular plan by the late Mr Dempster, and is yearly increasing. There are two markets here for all kinds of 152 FORFARSHIRE. bestial, hiring of servants, &c There is a linen-hall in this vil- lage, which is now converted into a school-room,* North of Letham there is a long straggling village called Drum- mietermon, chiefly inhabited by small formers, most of whom are weavers. There are also small villages at Bouriefad, at Craichy, Cotton of Lownic, and Kirkton of Dunnichen. To the west of Dunnichen there is another straggling village, called Cotton of Lownie, chiefly inhabited by small farmers, most of whom are also weavers. In the Kirkton of Dunnichen an annual fair is held on the third Wednesday of March, Old Style. This is said to have been a great market in former times, and was held with continuation of days. Now very little business is done there ; and only a few idle people assemble at it for amusement. Means of Communication* — The old roads of this parish are ge- nerally very ill contrived. The principal road upon the estate of Dunnichen is too narrow, and is always miry in wet weather. A new toll road from Dundee to Brechin has long been in contempla- tion, which will pass through Letham. This road has been com- pleted in some places to the northward, and has been already formed in so far as it passes through the estate of Dunnichen. It cannot fail to be of great advantage to this district, by opening an easy communication with the distinguished port of Dundee. There are only four bridges in the parish, each of one arch. Ecclesiastiad State.-^T\\e earliest place of worship in the parish was situated in the shallow lake, or Mire of Dunnichen, on what has some appearance of having been an artificial island, and of which some of the foundations are still visible. A deep ditch had separated it from the solid land ; and the ditch seems to have been crossed by a draw-bridge. This place obtained the name of St Cows- land's Chapel. After William the Lion had granted all the lands an- nexed to Red Castle, and many others, to the monastery of Ar- broath, of which he was the founder, it appears that this fraternity converted Cowsland's Chapel into a parish church, and constitut- ed all their lands in this quarter into a parish annexed to this church. There not being a sufficient quantity of produce to afibrd a stipend to a clergyman, farm-bolls and feu-duties were allotted from the cultivated lands on Lunan Water for his support, f *' At a fiur which was held here on a Saturday in 1832, the Sabbath was largely encroached upon, and on that morning an atrocious murder was committed. ThQ;olBrcn- dcr having pled culpable homicide, was sentenced to one year*s imprisonment. / A circumsianQv may be mentioned that shows the state of agriculture in these DUNMCHEN. 15;) The present diurch is situated on a rising ground at the lower psrt of the kirk-4own of Dunnichen. It is on the outside of the parish, — tliere being only three inhabited houses, (of which the oiansioii-house of Dunnichen is one,) near to it on the north. This dmrch was built from the foundation in 1802, but in a very im- perfect manner. It is in a damp situation, was covered with heavy nnd-stone flags, and the cupples, being of young unseasoned wooil, vere so completely rotten, that in 1817, it became necessary to famish it with a new roof, covered with blue slates. It can ncconi- modate about 500 sitters, and is lotted into three divisions, corre- iponding to the valuation in the county books of the three estates in the parish. Each proprietor subdivides his portion of the church among his tenants. Since the people of Kirkden have ^ot a spa- cious and elegant new church in the neighbourhooil of Lethmn, most of these people have got accommodation there. There are no free sittings in the church; and the number of communicants always somewhat exceeds 500. The old manse was situated immediately under the church-yard, which overtopped its eaves. After a long and expensive litigation before the Court of Session, a new manse and offices were built in a dry and well-aired situation in 1814-15; but, as the cheapest estimate was accepted, and no proper inspector was appointed, every thing was done in the most insufficient manner, and the un- dertakers were discharged before the work was finished. A more effectual repair of the offices was agreed upon last spring ; but it has been delayed from various causes, until they are in danger of falling down. There were two adjudications of a glebe by the presbytery. The first allotted four acres of arable or tilled land, with two acres of meadow pasture, besides the garden and stance of manse and offices, which are half an acre. There were included some patches which never had been tilled, but which have since been trcnclied and times. Forty-eight bolls of oats, iMiyable to the parson of Dunnichen, were after- wards eichanged for 19^ bolls of meal. This shows that black oats were then culti- vated on the best of the monastic lands, as they arc in some parts of the Highlands and Isles to this day, and of which two bolls only yield one boll of nK>al. The meal being more portable, it was reckoned a just equivalent for the oats, after paying the mill dues. Ilaving thus provided what was reckoned a sufficient stipend for the mi- nister of Dunnichen, these monks were allowed to alienate the lands of Dunnichen, ram decimU incluMlt, But if these l>olls sliould be evicted, (and part of them has been evicted to augment the stipend of the minister of the parish,) it may become a ques- tion at law, whether recourse may not be competent upon the tciiids of Dunnichen. 154 FORFARSHIRE. brought into cultivation. The next adjudication was for straiglit- ing marches and inclosing. Former ministers also had a right of pasturing their cattle on the hill of Dunnichen, in name of turf and divot land, which was taken from them without such an equivalent as is granted in other cases in this comitry. The minister has also a right to cast peats in the moss of Dunnichcn. There was formerly a road up to the church, passijig through the glebe, which, during a vacancy, was shut, and along with it a very valuable part of the grass glebe was taken off. The consequence is, that there is no road to the remainder of the grass glebe but through the arable ground, which occasions so much destruction of the crops, that the glebe is of little value. Several years ago the General Assembly granted warrant to prosecute the redress of these griev- ances from the funds of the church ; but the present incumbent has waited, though in vain, expecting to get them amicably settled. The only stipend payable from the parish is from the estate of Dumbarrow, — 6 J b. bear, 24b. 6 p. oatmeal, and 18s. vicarage; and from the estate of Dunnichen L. 2, 16s. 4d. vicarage. All the rest of the stipend is paid by Lord Panmure and other proprietors of land which belonged to the monastery of Arbroath : also by the Earl of Strathmore. By the 50th Geo. III., L. 22, 5s. Id. were added to raise the stipend to L. 150 ; but when the victual fell much lower than was established by that act, in cheap years the stipend hardly exceeded L. 100. To remedy this, by the 5th Geo. IV., L. 15, 17s. 7d. were added, which maljps the whole allowance from Go- vernment amount to L. 38, 2s. 8d. From this it can easily be seen, that, when the fiars' prices exceed the valuation of that act, the stipend proportionally exceeds L. 150 ; but when the fiars are below that valuation, which is the case at present, and likely to continue, the value of the stipend is proportionally below L. 150. In this parish there is a meeting-house belonging to the sect of Congregationalists. The hall of Letham also is used as a place of public worship by a congregation of Seceders. The preacher in the latter is paid partly from collections, partly from their synod fund : the other is also paid partly from collections, and partly from a fund established by the adherents of his sect. Some time ago, Mr James Hawkins, advocate, heir apparent of the estate of Dunnichen, became a convert to the famous Row heresy, which he preached in this parish, in a chapel which he him- self built. The chapel has been for some time vacant : but it is said DUNMCHEN. 155 he is in quest of a person of his own sentiments, to be established in it as a settled ministen In this he has not yet succeeded. Upon the whole, however, the parish church is very well attended. The number of persons frequenting the chapel of the Congrega- tionalists, and who reside in this parish, amounts to 20. Of Se- ceders, there are probably about 60 individuals in the parish. — All the rest of the parishioners adhere to the established church. Education. — The parochial school is situated at Craichy. The onginal object of placing it there was to accommodate the people on the estate of TuUoes. But these people being mostly removed, there are few children within reach of the school. The teacher has enjoyed a complete university education, and is well qualified m classical literature, in arithmetic, algebra, and the higher branches of calculation ; also in mathematics, and their application to prac- tical purposes. He sometimes has a scholar or two in Latin, but seldom has any demand for the higher branches of education. The dwelling-house consists of only two apartments, and the school-room has a cold damp floor, which is very uncomfortable for children in winter. The number of scholars is sometimes about 30, but is often below that number. The salary is the maximum. The fees_ are the lowest allowed in country schools, namely, 2s. 6d. a quarter for beginners; 3s. for those advanced to writing; and 4s. for those learning arithmetic. The amount of school fees actual- ly received is very various, and in a course of years may ave- rage from L. 5 to L. 6 per annum. The teacher is also session- clerk, at a salary of L. 2, 7s. : but he gives L. 2 of that to the precentor, and receives only such perquisites as accrue. He is also collector of the parish road-money, for which his remuneration is very trifling. Since the village of Letham began to advance in population, there has always been a school kept there. There was also a dwelling-house built for him by subscription, which the feuars of Letham took from him without legal authority. Mr Millar, con- nected with the Secession, is their present teacher. The same branches are taught, and the same fees are charged, as in the parish school. The number of scholars varies from 85 to 105. They are not all from this parish, but partly from the neighbouring parishes of Rescobie and Kirkden, which are contiglious to Le- tham. There is another private school at the bridge of Dumbarrow, * taught by a Mr Dickeson, who belongs to our church. Tlie 156 FORFARSHIRE. same branches are taught, and the same fees paid, as in oilier schools. The people there have built a commodious house and school-room for the teacher. I cannot learn whether they afford any salary. The number of scholars varies from 65 to 85. They are not all from the district of Dumbarrow, but a considerable pro- portion of them from the neighbouring parishes of Kirkden and Carmyllie. Library. — We have a library at Letham, containing from 400 to 500 volumes. These treat of religion and morality ; of civil history, especially that of our own country; of agriculture; na- tural history; and various branches of the mechanical sciences. This library was made up, partly by donations of books from va- rious individuals, partly by annual subscriptions of persons in this parish, and in those parts of the neighbouring parishes of Kirkden and Rescobie, which are contiguous to Letham, partly also from collections in the churches of Dunnichen and Kirkden. Poor and Parochial Funds. — It appears from the session books, that there were L. 100 at one time accumulated for the use of the poor. But it also appears, that when times of distress occurred, the heritors would give nothing until this stock was exhausted. For a considerable time, the funds arising from collections, mort- cloth dues, proclamation of banns, and fines, amounted to from L. 45 to L. 48 per annum, by which the session contrived to sup- port the poor, with a little aid, in times of distress, from the late Mr Dempster. At last, on the occasion of its being found neces- sary to send to the lunatic asylum at Dundee a deranged woman whose maintenance and clothing cost about L. 20 per annum, this sum was raised by subscriptions ; which mode of collecting conti- nued several years. It was afterwards found necessary to establish an assessment, since which time the collections havo fallen very much off. The assessment was the more necessary, as we Were obliged to send another person to the Asylum at Dundee. Meanwhile the session, on account of certain calumnies that were raised against them, were induced to resign the active manage- ment of the poor, which is now vested in a committee appoint- ed by the heritors. Some of the poor receive Is. or a peck of meal, a-week ; one receives 2s. and another family 3s. With the exception of a few individuals, they are verj' averse to come upon the poors' funds. The following is an account of the receipts and expenditure of DUNNICHEX, i:>7 poor's money, from Ist Januan* 1802, to 31st December same year: Concctions in the church, .... From BottTd of Health, ..... MortclotlM, ..... ProchRuiUonsofbMiiu, .... To which add, Aausmient ofad April 1832, Do. oTlft October 1892, CoDcctione received bj the managers of the poor. From Mary Loimie*8 roup, ..... L. u 4 I 74 1 8 (> 17 L.15 16 s GO 40 4 7 10 1 8 Sum raiwd, - . . I^ 121 12 » Expenditure of the kirk-WMion from Itt January 18*12, to .*)lst l>c- cember aamc year, - . L. II 13 OJ Expended by committeo of managers, 64 18 3 To collector of aneatment, - 2 To aaylum, Dundee* for two lunatics - - 93 10 I i Sum expended, - . L. 112 2 2^ Balance rcnuiinipg. . - 1^0 il^ Alehouses. — There is a general com])laiiit that the public houses in the parish are too numerous ; but the great scarcity of money seems to prevent them from having any sensible effect upon the morals of the people. FueL — The fuel chiefly used here is EngHsh coals, which the farmers or their servants bring from Arbroath or Dundee. December 1833. PARISH OF KIRRIEMUIR. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. THOMAS EASTON, D. D. MINISTER. L T6P0GRAPHY AND NATURAL HiSTORY. Name^ Boundaries^ Sfc. — Kirriemuir lies at the north side of the extensive and fertile valley of Strathmore, in the county of Angus, and is about eighteen miles from Dundee, twenty from Arbroath, and as many from Montrose. The name is by some supposed to be compounded of two words, Corrie-mdr^ the large hollmo or den ; by others, it is said to be a Celtic word, which means the " large quarter or district,** The position of the town, on the side of a ravine or den, which extends nearly a mile in length, and is upwards of 100 feet in depth, supports the former derivation; while the latter may be supposed to have reference to the great extent of country which the parish embraces. The parish is divided into two considerable districts, which are separated from each other by part of the parish of Kingoldrum : the one, the northern, usually called Glenprosen, is chiefly pastoral, — the other, the southern, is agricultural and manufactur- ing. The southern division is nearly square in its form, being, according to Mr Blackadder, about five miles in each direction ; and contains about 16,000 imperial acres. The northern division is about nine miles in length, and varies, according to the same authority, from two to four miles in breadth. It contains about 18,000 imperial acres. The southern division of the parish is bounded on the west by Airly and Kingoldrum; on the north by Kingoldrum; on the east by Cortachy, Tannadice and Oathlaw ; and on the south by Forfar and Glammis. The northern division is bounded on the west by Lintrathen and Glenisla ; on the south by Kingoldrum ; on the east by Cortachy ; and on the north by Clova. Topographical Appearances. — Nothing can be more dissimilar than the two districts into which the parish has been divided ; KIRRIEMUIR. l.V.) vUe the southenx division is chiefly level, the northcrii divlsioi) is Dorlv all mountainous. In Tie¥riiig the southern division of the parish from the hill of Kirriemuir, from which it is nearly all visible, we find that for about a mile to the north of the parishes of Forfar and Glani- mis it is nearly level ; and that then it rises gently, fonniiig al- most one continued sloping bank, till within a few hundred yards of the town, which stands nearly in the centre, and is separated from this bank by a deep hollow or ^^ den," to which we have already alluded. To the east and west of the town the parish is nearly flat ; to the north it is almost level, till we reach the braes of Inverquharity, the summits of which are covered with thriving plantations, which contribute greatly to their beauty. The northern division of the parish may be described sis consist- ing of a large glen along the Proscn, flanked by lofty mountains wUch rise on either side, but which are intersected by numerous small glens and openings. The most remarkable mountain in the parish is Catlaw, part of which is in the parish of Kirriemuir, and part in the parish of Kingoldrum. This mountain forms the foremost of the Grampian ridge, which extends in an uninterrupted chain from the German Ocean to the Atlantic, and is by some supposed to be the Mons Grampius of Tacitus. It is 2264 feet above the level of the sea. The braes of Inverquharity, and the hill of Kirriemuir, the only eminences of any consequence in the southern division of the pa- rish, are under cultivation up to their summit ; but the mountains of Glenprosen are in general covered with heath, interspersed with patches of grass, produced or cherished by the many rills of water which run down their sides. Meteorology — Climate. — The climate of the parish varies consi- derably, — the lower part being milder and more temperate than the higher, except in the middle of summer, when, owing to the reflexion of the sun's rays from the hills, the latter is perhaps warmer than the former. About the boundaries of the parishes of Forfar and Glam- mis, the air is milder than near the town, and to the northward of it. Upon the whole, the climate of the southern division of the parish may be described (especially since the ground has been so much drained,) as more dry than moist, more clear than foggy, and more salubrious than otherwise; and the sun is often to be seen shining on Kirriemuir while the low parishes in the Strath are enveloped in mist. Many persons of both sexes arrive at the age 160 FORFARSHIRE. of three-score and ten and even fourscore years. In the district of Glenprosen, the population of which amounts to 295, there are ten persons above eighty years of age ; and some time ago I noticed four persons conversing together on the street whose united ages amounted to 338. In 1833 the deaths amounted to 1 in 62 — of which 34 averaged 73, and 13, 80. There is an instance of a married couple who have lived together 64 years. One of their daughters has had twenty children. The heaviest rains come from the east and south-east I be- lieve that as much rain falls in Kirriemuir as in most of the parishes on the west coast of Scotland ; but we have more of it at a time than they have who get more or less of it every day. I understand that the smallest quantity of rain falls in some of the western isles, the inhabitants of which seldom see the sun, from its being enve- loped in a continual fog. The weather with us has been observed for many years to continue steadily of the same kind for certain pe- riods of time. Geology. — The greater part of the southern division of the pa- rish consists partly of the old red sandstone formation, and partly of red schistose sandstone, with occasional rocks of the trap family. At Shielhill a vein of trap cuts the strata in an easterly direction ; and at the bridge of Prosen a bed of conglomerate forms the first line of eminences along the north side of the valley of Strathmore. Under the conglomerate is a stratum of gray roofing-slate, con- taining some vegetable impressions, as in the corresponding beds of the Sidlaw Hills. But the most interesting feature in the geology of the district is a dike of serpentine on the farm of Balloch, de- scribed by Mr Lyell in the third volume of the Edinburgh Journal of Science. The direction of the dike is about east and west ; it is nearly vertical, but with a slight inclination to the north ; and is considered by Mr Lyell as interesting in showing the geological connection between greenstone and serpentine, and the manner in which stratified rocks are affected by their contiguity to dikes of serpentine. In Glenprosen the primitive formation appears to consist of mica-schist, hornblende slate, and gneiss, containing rock-crystal and garnets. Limestone is quarried, and burnt with peat in small rude kilns. Soil — In the southern division of the parish, the soil may in general be classed under two distinct heads, — a margin of sand and gravel, but chiefly of the latter, contiguous to the water on the north, and varying from half a mile to one mile in breadth, — stretching from the Prosen, across the valley of the Carity, KIRRIEMUIR. U)l to some distance on its south side, and contracting into very narrow limits, when it approaches the South Esk, and still con- tinuing along the banks of the latter to the east side of the parish. This species of soil is not confined to the flat haughs on the sides of the waters, which are of no great extent, but stretches orer most of the elevated grounds within the above limits ; and in the lowest portion of the parish, on the south-west, there is an extensive flat tract, about two miles long and one mile broad, of ^ a similar description. The whole of the remainder, forming the centre of this division of the parish, is incumbent on a thick bed of clay, intermixed with stones, provincially termed mortar. Upon many of the heights this deposit is of little depth, but it is rarely altogether awanting, and in few cases does the subjacent rock reach to the soiL This deposit consists of a heterogeneous mixture of clay, sand, and stones of all sizes, from those of many tons weight down to the smallest pebble ; and is in its nature imper- vious to water. The soil on it is therefore more or less damp, unless when possessed of considerable depth, which is frequently the case on the face of sloping grounds, on moderate elevations, or in flats and hollows, where there is an alluvial deposit. In such situations, the richest soil of the parish is found, consisting of black and brown loams of excellent quality, but comparative- ly of little extent In the low gravelly tracts the soil is all dry, but generally thin- ner than the mortar, unless where there happens to be an al- luvial deposit on the flats and hollows, which are in such cases of very rich soil. The tracts on the northern side contain the greatest proportion of good soil, that on the south being chiefly very bare gravel, having a thin black moorish soil on it, equally barren with the coldest and worst soils on the mortar. There is not a pebble to be seen which cannot readily be referred to the parent rock. Within the limits of the mortars there are numerous specks of sandy and gravelly soils, but none of such an extent as to deserve notice in such a general view as this ; and, strictly speaking, there is no strong clay soil, for all the mortar soils arc in general more of a sandy than clayey nature, when compared with clays in other quarters of the county, and those of other districts of Scot- land. In many of the hollows over all this portion of the parish, there are deposits of moss, some of which have been completely, and others partially, drained. In the former case, a considerable FORFAR. L 162 FORFARSHIRE. extent of them has been improved and cultivated, and forms a very productive soil, On the whole, this division of the parish may be stated to be, in respect of soil, fully equal to any of those conti- guous. With respect to the northern division of the parish, the cultivated ground is confined to the bottom of the glen, and in some cases to partial spots, stretching up the sides of the rising grounds. The greatest part of this soil is of a gravelly nature, exactly similar both in kind and in fertility to that which we have already de- scribed on the north side of the lower division. Farther up, on the sides of the mountains, the soil is at first composed of the decayed subjacent roclfl, intermixed with vegetable matter, forming a very good soil ; but in general the ground is both too steep, and of too great elevation, to be cultivated. A very large extent on the sides, the summits, and the hollows of the mountains, is deeply covered with moss. When there is a due mixture of earthy soil, and no excess of surface water, the mountain pasturage is finely intermixed with tender grass and heath, forming valuable sheep-walks ; but, when the soil is damp or mossy, the herbage is of a coarser de- scription. This division of the parish is, in the particulars now referred to, on a par with any of the contiguous mountain dis- tricts, and even superior to some of them. Gravel Pits. — From the description which I have given of the soil of the parish, it may be seen that there are in it many gravel pits, the pebbles imbedded in which partake of the nature of Gram- pian rock, or the subjacent rocks; and the trap does not appear to be a stratified deposit, but a heterogeneous and disordered accumula- tion. It has been remarked, that the particles of the sand at the Loch of Kinnordy and at Roundy Hill, are globular, whereas those of the sand at Auchlishie are angular ; on which account this sand, when mixed with lime, is in high repute as a cement. Peat-Moss, — There are many peat-mosses in the parish. The moss of Kinnordy has been wrought of late in a systematic man- ner. Previous to 1810, the inhabitants of Kirriemuir were al- lowed to dig peats in this moss for themselves; but they con- ducted their operations in a manner so irregular, that the whole surface had become covered with deep pits, and the belief had be- come general, that the moss was exhausted. At this time, at a considerable expense, the person who superintended the work drained the moss according to a plan given by the eminent Mr KIRRIEMUIR. 163 Johnston, — levelling eminences, and filling up excavations ; and, in the course of three years, he found that the whole moss had subsided about three feet, and, in consequence, had become more compact and dry. Having divided the moss into fields, he began at the lower end by trenching the ground ; the peats he laid aside for sale ; but that part of the moss which was of no value he levelled,-— covering the whole with a tramp of clay taken from the bottom, so that the whole of what has been treated in tliis way presents a regular surface. For the last seventeen years, the value of peats sold has amounted annually to a sum from L. 100 to Li 150 Sterling ; and the ground from which the peats are dug, amounting now to twenty or thirty acres, fonnerly of no use, has already produced good crops of grass and corn. Such moss lands should be allowed to lie long in grass ; and, before being broken up, they should be pared and burned, — a small quantity of Ume, if possible, being added. The moss of the Balloch is of considerable extent. It is in some places twenty-two feet in depth. The average depth is sixteen feet The first layer, consisting of unconsolidated moss, is five feet^ There is then an average layer of eleven feet of moss fit for peats ; and at the bottom is a layer of white sandy clay. There is no marl. Beds ofMarL — Shell-marl is well known to be the remains of myriads of small testaceous animals which commonly inhabit pools of water, and which have lived and died in this situation. There are two beds of marl of considerable extent in the parish ; the one the Loch of Kinnordy, the other the meadows of Logie. In the up- per bed of marl there was lately found the skeleton of a stag, Cer- mts elephasj of large dimensions. The horns had nine branches, and weighed when dry nearly eighteen pounds. The skeleton was in a vertical position, the tips of the horns nearly reaching to the surface of the marl, and the feet nearly two yards below. The marl was immediately covered by peat, in which also the skeletons of stags are occasionally discovered. The meadows of Logie were drained under the able direction of Mr Abercrombie. The water which falls into the loch is con- veyed through the contiguous property by an arched under-ground tunnel ; while an embankment around the north side keeps off the land floods, and collects a sufficient quantity of water to serve the purpose of a mill-pond. An immense drain is led from the tunnel 164 FORFARSHIRE. up through the centre of the loch, and exposes the marl to its bot- tom on each side. The whole bed consists, first, of a layer of moss, mixed with alluvial earth ; then a layer of marl ; and at the bottom, a layer of clay. The bed is wrought in a systematic man- ner ; first, the moss is removed, and thrown into a bed prepared for it ; then the marl is taken away ; and then a layer of clay is thrown upon the moss, which is thus converted into land of great fertility. The marl occupies about 100 acres, and varies from four to six feet in depth. From this bed of niarl, horns of deer and of other ani- mals are occasionally dug: In particular, there was dug up one pair of antlers with seven branches, which is preserved in the house of Logic. In the meadows of Logic the shells are abundant. When taken up they are frequently entire ; but, after a short exposure to the atmosphere, they crumble into a fine white powder, which effer- vesces with acids. This is not always, however, the' case ; for I have a quantity of shells which were collected in this locality, and, although they have been for some time in my possession, thiey still retain their form. Prevalent Distempers. — The parish may be said to be in general healthy. Asthmatical complaints, so common in some districts, are scarcely known here; the diseases to which the people are most lia- ble are inflammatory complaints, which, about twenty years ago, were often fatal, but which now, from the improved mode of treat- ment, and the free use of the lancet, in general end favourably. These complaints do not arise, so far as we can discern, froni any local cause. Scrofulous affections were once common, but the symptoms have been mitigated by the improvement which has taken place in the food of the people, their clothes, and their houses. In this last respect there is still abundance of room for improvement, especially in the town. Of the diseases once com- mon in this parish and neighbourhood, which have in a great mea- sure disappeared, by far the most remarkable is what is provincially called the leaping ague. The curious reader will find an interest- ing account of this extraordinary disease in the third volume of the Edinburgh Medical Journal, and in Dr Jamieson's Statistical Account of Tannadice. It may be said to consist in a morbid propensity to running, leaping, or tumbling, which the patient is unable to resist. During the paroxysm he has all the appearance of madness. Cold bathing is said to be the only remedy; but KIRRIEMUIR. 165 when the fit of running or leaping comes on, nothing was found tending to abate the violence of the disease, so much as allowing the patient to exercise himself till nature was exhausted. There is only one person in the parish who is known to me as at present now liable to be afBicted with this singular disease. Hydrography — Rivers. — The only streams in the parish are the South Esk, the Prosen, the Carity, and the Garie. The South EmA takes its rise round the mountains of Clova ; and after receiv- ing many tributary streams in its progress, falls into the sea at Montrose. The Prosen has its source in the north-west extre- mity of the northern division of the parish, and runs through the whole of Glenprosen. It is fed by the rivulets of Lednathy, Glenoig, Glenlogy, and many others, and falls into the South Esk, near Inverquharity. The Carity rises at Bahntore, in the parish of Lintrathen, and is lost in the South Esk, near Inverquha- rity. The Garie has its source in the Loch of Kinnordy, and falls into the Dean a little to the eastward of Glammis Castle. Before the loch was drained the Garie was a considerable stream ; but it is now so small that often in summer it is scarcely suffi- cient to turn a mill. Loch of Kinnordy. — The only lake or loch of considerable ex- tent in the parish is the Loch of Kinnordy. It was drained in 1740 and 1741 by Sir John Ogilvy, for the sake of the marl. It is about a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth, and abounded, as the Rev. George Ogilvy assures us, in pike, perch, and the large silver-coloured eeL This lake being but imperfectly drained at first, Mr Jobson, when proprietor of the lands of Balfour in Kin- goldrum, undertook to drain it completely ; but after he had ex- pended a great deal of money in the attempt, he desisted. In its present state it is both unsightly and unhealthy ; and it certainly should either be drained effectually, or restored to its pristine con- dition, by allowing the water once more to cover it. This last alternative could easily be accomplished ; and it is a matter for consideration whether the value of the water, as a reservoir for the mills on the Garie, might not compensate for the loss of the marl, the demand for which has become of late very limited. Zoology. — From the extent of the parish, and from the great va- riety of soil and climate which it embraces, it possesses perhaps as many varieties in zoology as most others in the kingdom. No per- son is better acquainted with this branch of natural history than John 166 ' FORFARSHIRE. Kiuloch, Esq. of Kilry, who has kindly communicated to me a list of birds and quadrupeds, most of which have been seen by himself. It ought to be mentioned, that a collection of wild animals and birds of the rarer sort was made by the late Mr John Bell, in conjunc- tion with Mr Kinloch, which was-presented to the University of St Andrews. I content myself with mentioning a few of the most re- markable birds. The golden eagle {FaJco Chrysojetos) — builds in Clova, but is often seen in Glenprosen. The hen-harrier or blue hawk (F. cyaneus) ; the female is called ring-tail ( F.pygargus)^ and is often mistaken for a different species. The merlin {F. JSsalon), the least of the genus Falcoj and very rare. The horned or long- eared owl often seen in the forest muir, and at Balnaboth ; the pther species are common. Lanius ezcubitorj the great butcher-bird ; this bird is rare. The raven {Corvus comix) ; the carrion crow (C corone) ; the hooded crow (C. corax) ; and the rook (C.frugilegus) ; . all common : the crows from the rookeries in the neighbour- hood, from Cortachy, from Inverquharity, from Dunnichen, from Glanmiis, and from the Bakie, have been long observed to assemble every day during the month of February within a mile of the town of Kirriemuir. The jackdaw {C. monedula) ; the magpie (C.pica); and the jay (C glandarius) : this last species seen in the forest moor. The starling {Stumtisvitlgaris); this species used formerly to build at Logie, but has not been seen for several years : I caught one on the hill of Kirriemuir. The missel-thrush ( Tur- dus viscivorus) breeds at Logie ; the field-fare ( T. pilaris) ; the redwing ( T. iliojcus) ; both migratory, but visiting us every winter, frequenting those places where wild berries are most abundant. The ring or rock-ouzel, (T. torquatvLs)^ though it breeds among the cairns of the Grampians, is sometimes to be seen in the gar- dens of the low country in autumn. The snow-bunting (Emberiza nivalis) makes its appearance in severe winters, lighting always on the ground, and never on trees. The goldfinch (Fringilla carduelis) breeds in the gardens of Kinnordy and Logie. The mountain-finch (F. montifringilla) ; this beautiful little bird visits Logie in severe winters to feed on beech-mast, its favourite food. The wood-lark (Alauda arborea) very rare. The long-tailed tit- mouse. {Pants caudatits); Mr Kinloch has seen this species at Logie, and in the forest moor, but it is not common. The sedge bird (Motacillaphragmitis) frequenting flags and reeds and sedges, and often heard, but seldom seen. The wood-wren (M. sibilatrix) KIRRIEMUIR. 167 not generally known, and not very common. The golden-crested wren {M* regulus)^ the least of all European birds ; Mr Kinloch says it is tolerably plentiful in the forest moor and Logie, and is generally to be seen on the largest trees. The land-rail or corn- crake (Rallus crex). The water-rail {R, aquaticus) is sometimes to be seen in the marshes on the estates of Kinnordy and Logie. The spotted rail (22. porzana) is very rarely seen. The king-fisher (Alcedo ispida) ; Mr Kinloch has seen several at Logie, generally in winter ; but has never heard of their breeding there. The bit- tern {Ard^a stellaris) ; Mr Kinloch has heard of their frequenting the marshes of Strathmore before they were drained; but they have not been seen for many years. The woodcock (Scolopax rusticola) is conmion. The goodwit {Limosa melanura)^ and the red-shank or pool-snipe ( Totantis cali^ dris), have both been shot at Logie and Kinnordy. The water- faen (JFkUica ckloropua) is to be found in all the marshes and ditches with reeds in them ; Mr Kinlocli has seen the coot (F* atra) in a marsh to the eastward ^f Logie. The wild swan {Anas cygmu fertut) ; the wild goose (A. anserferus) ; and the white fronted goose (A. albifrons), all visit us in the course of their migrations. The teal (A. crecca) and the wild duck {A* hoschas)^ are common in the Loch of Kinnordy. The spotted flycatcher ( Mui^ cipula ffrisola) breeds at Logie, and is not generally known. I need scarcely mention, that the different kinds of swallows, the chimney-swallow, the window-swallow, the sand-martin, and the i»wift, are conmion. The goatsucker {Caprimulffus Europaeus) has been shot at Logie and Kinnordy. The pheasant (Phasianus colehicus) is oc- ca^onally to be seen. Black-cock ( Tetrao tetrix) is conmion in Glenprosen and in the forest moor. The ptarmigan ( T. loffopus) is common in Glenprosen. The red-grouse or muirfowl {T. ScoHcus) is nowhere more abundant than in Glenprosen. The quail {Perdix cotumix) is an occasional visitant to the corn-fields in Strathmore, and was killed at Logie in the winter of 1828. Quadrupeds. — The red deer or stag {Cervits elephas) may be first mentioned. This species, though not so frequently as for- merly, b still occasionally to be seen in Glenprosen. I have often seen the roebuck (C. capreolus) in the forest moor and in the woodis of Lindertis. The wild-cat (Felis catus) is often seen in the woods of Balnaboth. The weazel {Mustela vulgaris) is often met with ; but the stoat or ermine (M, erminea) is not so common. The 168 FORFARSHIRE. stoat becomes white in winter, and is to be distinguished from the weazel by its tail being always black at the end ; it is also larger. The polecat (M. putorius) is common. The martin has been found in the woods of Balnaboth ; the other frequents the banks of the Esk, and of the bum of Ballandarg. The badger is com- mon ; one was killed some years ago in the poultry-house at Logic. There are two varieties of the fox, the large black-legged grey- hound fox, or hill fox, and the cur fox, or low country fox, which is smaller. The hare is common. The white or Alpine hare {Ijepus variablis) is often to be seen in Glenprosen ; it becomes white in winter, except the tips of the ears, which remain black. I have been told by a mole-catcher that he once found a white mole near Newtyle. The large-eared bat (Vespertilio auritus^) and the short-eared bat ( V. murinus), are equally common about old buildings; of the latter sp^'cies I counted thirty-six, which came out one after another from a crevice in the wall of the manse. Mr John Fergusson has sometimes seen the viper or adder (Coluber berusj in the hill of Gleuoig. My late friend, Mr John Bell, brought two nimble lizards (Lacerta agilis) from the moun- tains of Glenprosen, and on placing them on the carpet they show- ed that the name was well applied. Pearls. — Mr George Donn says, that the pearl mussel (Mya margaritifera) is common in the South Esk ; and Dr Jamieson as- sures us, that at one time there was a considerable fishery carried on to procure pearls. He mentions that some of them were so va- luable that L. 4 were given for them in the first market One was got as large as the ball of a pocket pistol. The principal bank where they were found was between the house of Bankhead and the house of Inshewan. About two years ago, a quantity of pearls was sold to a jeweller in this town, found in the South Esk, six miles above Cortachy. Insects, — There are several insects which have lately been ob- served, and which have proved injurious to vegetation and fruit trees. I shall mention a few of them as they occur. Curcidio pinu Though the ravages of this destructive insect have not been so great as in other places, they have been felt here. This little animal, as Mr Headrick observes, cuts holes into the tender vessels of the larch and birch, which allow much of the sap to escape. The extravasated sap dries in the air, forming small KIRRIEMUIR. 1G9 « white flakes of turpentine, resembling hoar frost, on the tender branches. C.pyri. This insect is very common on the fruit trees of the garden walls of Kinnordy, and does great damage. The gardener informs me, that in summer he is obliged to hunt them with candle light, as they do not make their appearance during the day. The caterpillar, — The larvae of various species of butterfly commit great devastation on the leaves of gooseberry bushes, white and red currant bushes, and on cabbages. I have never seen them attack the black currant. The eggs are laid with great regularity on the under part of the leaf ; and I know of no remedy so effec- tual as picking off the leaves as soon as the eggs are observed on them. Mr Donn remarks, that the larvae of Mumft/jfitmeiariui and M.JritBTe sometimes injurious; the one to wheat, ^and the other to barley. What is provincially called the wire-worm is the larva of the Tipida oleracea^ a long-legged large fly, common about meadows, and also sometimes the larvae of the T. crocata. This grub sometimes does much mischief to oats, after grass, par- ticularly old grass. The Limax dgrestis^ or what is commonly cal- led the grub, does much injury in some quarters in eating up the young wheat in spring, and also the oats in the month of May. Vari- ous plans have been tried for their destruction; but none have been effectual. The most common is to roll the ground at night with a heavy roller, which crushes them, and puts a stop to their work of destruction. Papilio napi is often destructive to the braird of turnips, and I am acquainted with no remedy. But no insect has of late years been more destructive to the fruits of the earth than Tipula tritici^ or the wheat-fly, — ^an account of which is to be found in the Transactions of the Linnean Society by the Rev. Mr Kirby, and in the 8th Number of the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture by Mr Archibald Gorrie. This last gentleman es- timates the loss sustained by the farming interest in the carse and braes of Gowrie to exceed L. 90,000 Sterling. Like others of the insect tribe, the wheat-fly in winter is in a state of larva; and about the beginning of June, having assumed the shape of flies, they begin to appear in those fields where wheat has been grow- ing during the preceding year. When the wheat comes into ear, the fliies are led to it ; but if they arrive at a field of wheat before it is in ear, they conceal themselves among the foliage within a foot of the ground, and as soon as any of the ears have appeared with one side out of the sheath, the female flies ascend to the ears. 170 F0RFARSH1H£. and commence laying their eggs. In the years 1827, 182d, and 1829, in shedding aside the wheat at the flowering season, the flies were to be seen in myriads. In stormy and windy weather, they are so slender that they are not able to rise and sit upon the ear to lay their ^gs; but in calm weathor, at this critical season, they accomplish this with ^ase. The efiect is the almost total ruin of the crop ; for, from the moment the eggs are thus laid, vegetation ceases^ the anthers do not expand, and the filaments that support them are glued to the chafil The stigma continues to appear fresh, and the anthers retain their fresh colour till with- in nine days from the eggs being laid; when the caterpillars ap- pear fully formed, and of a white colour, which ultimately turns to a bright sulphur ; they thus devour the embryo grain. The flies do not live more than three days after they have laid their eggs. I know of no effectual remedy to arrest the progress of this destructive insect It is in vaiif to expect that it can be extirpated by ex- posure to frost. Mr Gorrie is of opinion, however, that, having succeeded in burying other caterpillars of large growth, the wheat-fly maggot might be also kept under. This, says he, could be easily performed, if^ in ploughing the wheat stubbles, a scarifier or skinmier were fixed on the beam before the coulter, of such construction as would cut and lay about an inch of the sur- face in the bottom of the furrow. If this were done correctly, and the subsequent ploughing kept so shallow as' not to touch the bu- ried surface, it is not likely that the maggots could seek their way up through the superincumbent soil. It is plain that, in this case, grass seeds are not to be sown with the wheat ; but some other crop must in the meantime be substituted. If this plan do not succeed, farmers for a few years ought to abandon the raising of wheat, and turn their attention to some other crop not liable to be injured. * . Botany — Forests and Plantations. — The forest of Plater or Pla- tane lies in the eastern part of the parish ; and the tradition is, that, from the hill of Kirremuir to the hill of Finhaven, the wood at one time was so thick that the wild cat could leap from one tree to another between the two places. This wood consisted of oak, birch, and other trees, which no doubt had witnessed the rites of the Druids ; * In the original MS. preserved among the Archives of the Church, there is added a list of a small number of new or rare insects, which have been taken at Kinnordy, or in some part of the parish of Kirremuir within the last four years. They have been attentively examined by Mr Curtis, and some of them are described in his Bri- tish Entomology. There is also an elaborate article on the botany of the parish. 3 KIRRIEMUIR. 171 and Mr George Ogilvy remarks, that, in his time, the roots of them were dug up in the moor by people casting peat and turf. This wood belonged of old to the Earls of Crawford, who set a fbrester o?er it. It afterwards belonged to the Earl of Strathmore, one of whose titles was Heritable Forester of the Forest of Plater. It now belongs to Charles Lyell, Esq. of Kinnordy. One of the inia^'i«« of war, which was bequeathed by King Robert Bruce as a legacy to his countrymen, was " Let wood for walls be." There is a tradition, accordingly, (and it is countenanced by Fordoun,) that Sir Andrew Moray, the friend of Wallace, and the Regent of Scotland, on a memorable occasion, having been pressed by the English, had recourse to the forest of Plater, where he concealed himself for the winter, and from which he issued and marched straight to Panmure, when a bloody battle was fought, and when a distinguished victory was obtained, — 4000 men, among whom was Lord Henry Mountfort, having been left dead on the spot. ♦ The natural timber in the parish is now very limited in quantity, being confined chiefly to birch, alder, hazel, black-thorn, and willows, on the sides of the waters at the northern extremity of the parish, and in Glenprosen. On dry ground, though bare, there is no tree that thrives better than the larch ; but for wet land the Scotch fir is to be preferred. The best situations for the growth of most kinds of trees are found by experience to be the steep banks of dens, and the sloping sides of hills. It has been remarked, that oak thrives better than any other kind of hard-wood in inferior soils. In low moors, where the soil is thin, and the subsoil retentive, trees seldom come to any considerable size ; but when the subsoil is porous the case is otherwise. Mr Chalmers, who has had great experience as a fo- rester, having planted nearly 1000 acres on the estate of Kinnordy, is an advocate for thin planting, — a practice which he justifies by many arguments. There are around Inverquharity Castle a few old chestnut trees, not so remarkable for their size as for their age. There are here also many very fine ash-trees, some of which are supposed to contain upwards of 100 cubic feet of wood of the best quality. I measured an ash-tree, which is upwards of 13 feet in circumference, and an elm, which is nearly 12 feet. But the largest trees in the parish arc to be found around the mansion- house of Logie. The periphery of the great ash-tree is nearly * On the question of what has become of the oaks of the forest of Plater, the writer bcgt to refer to Uie Notes to Mr Tyt]er*s History of Scotland, where they will find the subject discussed in a satisfactory manner. 172 FORFARSHIRE. 21 feet There are several others of considerable size. There are also a great many fine beeches, many of which are from 12 to 14 feet in circumference. At Kinnordy there is a considerable variety of all the different ornamental kinds of wood. At Balna- both the plantations are chiefly of Scotch fir, with a few larch ; both are of excellent quality, particularly the former. The late Earl Walter, who planted them, very properly took the precaution of sending to the Mar forests for his plants. 11. — Civil History. Accounts of the Parish, — There is an account of this parish ex- tant in manuscript, drawn up in 1 748 by the late Rev. George Ogilvy. It embraces the history of Christianity, from its first in- troduction into Scotland ; but it has an especial reference to the ec- clesiastical state of Kirriemuir, of which he was long the respect- able minister. This history has been transcribed into the book which is kept for the registration of baptisms, and is of consider- able value. As the validity of any but Episcopal ordination was keenly contested at the time when Mr Ogilvy lived, the principal object which he seems to have had in view was to prove, by a refe- rence to acknowledged facts, that our first Protestant ministers had no other but Presbyterian ordination. In 1825, the present incumbent published " Statements rela- tive to the Pauperism of Kirriemuir." * Historical Events. — Tradition furnishes us with few particulars respecting the early history of Kirriemuir. There can be no doubt that the inhabitants of this and of the neighbouring parishes zeal- ously attached to the Ogilvies, shared in their fortunes, shedding their blood as often as it was required in their service. When Donald, the Lord of the Isles, who ranked himself among the al- lies of England, and made war and peace as an independent prince, advanced in 1411 to prosecute his claims to the earldom of Ross, he was opposed by Lord Ogilvy, the sheriff of Angus, who brought up his own martial clan, some of whom were no doubt inhabitants of Kirriemuir, and at Harlaw, along with the powerful Earl of Mar and others, gained the victory which decided, as Sir Walter Scott observes, the superiority of the more civilized regions of Scotland over those inhabited by the Celtic tribes. In the famous battle between the Ogilvys and Lindsays, which * For an account of the many interesting localities of the parish, see the original MS. KIRRIEMUIR. 173 • was fought in 1447, no fewer than 500 Ogilvys fell, which must haye been a severe stroke to Kirriemuir. The Catherines. — At no very remote period it was not accounted dishonourable for polite clans to commit depredations on each other. It was usual for the Highlanders beyond the Grampians to put themselves under the command of some warlike chieftain, to form themselves into bands of Catherines, as they were called, and to levy from all the farmers in their neighbourhood a contribution, under the name of black-mail, to secure their forbearance or pro- tection. The fine country of Strathmore could not escape their depredations, and many a tale is told of their incursions. We are informed, that, even so early as 1392, three chiefs of the name of Donnechy, instigated or commanded by Duncan Stewart, a natural son of the turbulent Earl of Buchan, came down to ravage this district ; and that a bloody battle took place in the Stormonth, in which Sir John Ogilvy, of this parish, was slain, with many of his followers. Feud between Forfar and Kirriemuir. — At one time feuds were not uncommon between rival towns, as well as between rival fami- lies. The feud between Perth and Dundee is alluded to by Dr Small in his Statistical Account of the latter of these towns. There was one equally bitter, though not equally important, be- tween the royal burgh of Forfar and the baronial burgh of Kirrie- muir. The origin of this feud was trifling, — a dispute respecting a piece of ground, called the Muir Moss, which was claimed by both parishes, but which was of little value to either. The con- test was exceedingly violent. There is a humorous story connect- ed with, this feud, which is found recorded in the brief biographi- cal notice of Drummond the poet, the friend of Johnson and Shakspeare, prefixed to the folio edition of his works. * * In the year 1645, when the plague was raging in Scotland, this eminent person came accidentally'to Forfar, but was not allowed to enter any house, or to get lodg- ing in the town ; which forced him, though it was very late, to direct his course to Kirriemuir, where he was well received and kindly entertained. Being informed of the feud which subsisted between the two towns respecting the Muir moss, he wrote a letter to the Provost of For&r, to be communicated to the town-council in haste. It was imagined that this letter came from the Estates, then sitting at St Andrews. The common council was summoned with all expedition, and the minister was sent for to assist them with his advice, and the letter was opened in a solemn manner. It con- tained the following lines : The Kirriemorians and Forfarians met at Muir moss. The Kirriemorians beat the Forfarians back to the Cross ; Sutors ye are, and sutors ye'll be, Fye upon Forfar, Kirriemuir bears the gree. Some anecdotes connected with the llebellion of 1715 and 1745, also with the 174 FORFARSHIRE. Eminent Persons — FamilyofOgilvy of Airly. — The noble family of Airly is descended from Gilbert, a near relation of Gilchrist, Earl of Angus, a gentleman of high distinction in the reign of William the Lion, who succeeded to the crown of Scotland in 1165. He ob- tained from that prince a charter to the lands of Powrie, Ogilvy, and Lintrathen ; and he took the name, Ogilvy, from his barony, as was customary in these days. Sir James Ogilvy was so highly es- teemed by King James IV. and his court, that he was created a peer by the title of Lord Ogilvy of Airly, and sat in his Parlia- ment in 1491. The eighth Lord Ogilvy, from his great merit and eminent services done to King Charles L, and for the great loyalty and fideUty of his ancestors, was farther dignified with the title of Earl of Airly in 1639. David, the then Earl of Airly, had two sons, James and John ; of whom James, the eldest son, Lord Ogilvy, having engaged in the rebellion of 1715, was attainted of high trea- son ; but his estate was saved by being in his father's person, who was then alive. He was afterwards pardoned ; but died without issue. He was succeeded by his brother John, the fourth Earl of Airly. His son. Lord Ogilvy, having engaged in the rebellion of 1745, was attainted of high treason, and escaped into France, where he had the command of a Scotch regiment called Ogilvy 's Regiment. The title was for some time in abeyance ; but was re- stored in 1826 to David, the present Earl, to the satisfaction of the whole county, and the enthusiastic joy of Kirriemuir and its neighbourhood. • This family has produced many individuals, no less eminent for their patriotism than for their loyalty to their sovereigns ; of these none were so distinguished as the first Earl and his two gallant sons. It was against this noble family that the Marquis of Ar- gyle had orders to proceed ; and 5000 men were levied for that purpose. Airly, in possession of Lord Ogilvy, and-Forthar, their two principal seats, were destroyed, and the tenantry ingloriously plundered of their com and cattle. Though the Marquis was ap- parently only the instrument, he was the secret mover of this se- vere measure, — a feud between the family of Campbell and Ogilvy having subsisted for several centuries. It was in commemoration of this event that the popular song of the " Bonny House of Air- lie" is said to have been written ; Argyle himself, according to the comic event, called the ** Battle of Cloisterbank,** in 1782y will be found iu the ori- ginal MS. KllUUEMUlR. 175 traditioiiy having taken a hammer, and assisted in the demolition of the doorways and hewing of the stone-work till he was overcome with fatigue. - The Earl of Airly, now referred to, was eminent as a soldier, and distinguished himself in Montrose's campaigns, in particular at the battle of Kilsyth. Ninuno, in his History of Stirlingshire, informs us, that a body of 1000 Highlanders in Montrose's army, without orders, marched up the hill to attack the enemy. That consummate general sent a strong detachment, under the command of the Earl of Airly, to their assistance, whose arrival not only preserved this resolute corps from being overpowered by a superior force, with which they were going to engage, but turned the balance against their anta- gonists, who were obliged to retreat. This was the most complete victory which Montrose ever gained. The loss on his side was small,— only seven or eight persons having been slain, three of whom were named Ogilvy, being relations of the noble family of Airly. Family of Ogilvy of Inverquharity. — This family, according to Douglas, traces its origin to the third son of the deceased Walter Ogilvy of Auchterhouse, by name Sir John, who received from his brother the lands and barony of Inverquharity in 1420. This fa- mily was ever held in the highest estimation,— its members hold- ing the highest civil and military appointments. It is not always easy, however, to distinguish their exploits from those of the house of Airly, to which they were allied. Alexander, second son of Sir John, was a youth of extraordinary parts, according to Guthrie in his Memoirs of Montrose, — valiant above his age, and of a fervent and daring spirit. He joined that distinguished war- rior ; was taken prisoner in the battle of Philiphaugh ; and, for his firm adherence to the Royal cause, was executed at Glasgow in the flower of his age, in 1646. The song, " It was a' for our rightful King," is said to have been the production of Captain Ogilvy, son of Sir David Ogilvy of Inverquharity. He was along with King James at the battle of the Boyne, and afterwards fell in an engagement on the Rhine. It is said that he was one of the hundred gentlemen who volunteered to attend their royal master in his exile. The present representative of this ancient family is Sir John Ogilvy, an ofiScer in the Guards. Family ofKinloch. — This family is very ancient, and may be traced to the twelfth, if not the ninth century. There is a charter without date to Sir John de Kinloch, which was confirmed by King 176 FORFARSHIRE. William. This family also has produced many individuals emi- nent for their literature, their patriotism, and their loyalty ; in par- ticular David, bom in 1560, and educated a physician, who travel- led much in foreign parts, and became eminent in his profession. He was some time confined in the Inquisition in Spain ; but from this he was at last liberated, on performing an extraordinary cure upon the Inquisitor General, when given over by his physicians. He after- wards returned to this country, and having acquired considerable wealth by the most honourable means, he purchased lands, which were confirmed to him by a charter from James VI. in 1616. He was a gentlemaix of great genius and learning, and wrote several works on physic. Dr Small, in his Statistical Account of Dundee, men- tions him as physician to James VI., and as author of some poems in the Latin language of great eloquence and beauty, and which are to be found in the collection of the Poetae Scotigeni. There is a portrait of this eminent person in the house of Logic, the re- sidence of the family. The baronetcy of the family was forfeited in 1746. John Kinloch, Esq. of Kilry, an officer in the Guards, is the legal heir to this honour, as being the lineal descendant and representative of James Kinloch, progenitor of the Kinlochs of Kilry, who was second son of James Kinloch of Aberbrothy, and father of Sir David Kinloch, created a baronet by King James VII., but whose family in that line has become extinct Land-oioners. — The chief of these, with their valued rents, as recorded in the valuation roll published by the Michaelmas Court of the county, 1822, are the following. Charles Lyelly Esq. of Kinnordy, John Kinloch, Esq. and feuars, G. L. Meason, Esq.- of Lindertis, The Hon. Colonel OgUvy of Clova, and feuars, Francis Graham, Esq. of Morphie, Miss II. Brown of Glasswell, John Adamson, Esq. of Hillhcad, and feuars, Parochial Registers^ — The parochial registers are of a late date. It appears that they were taken possession of in 1713, by the Rev. James Rait, and were never afterwards recovered. The registers of marriages, births, and deaths, which have been kept since 1713, are as correct as most others, but far from being in a satisfactory state. Antiquities — Rocking-stones. — Dr Smith, in his History of the Druids, says, that the Highlanders called the rocking-stones " Clacha Breath^'' that is, the stones of judgment ; but Mr Hud- L.d568 13 6 1150 1027 533 6 8 426 13 4 390 380 KIRRIEMUIR. 177 dleBtODey in his learned notes to his edition of Toland, objects to UuB appellation, in as much as no two rocking-stones are to be found together. It is singular, however, that there are two a little to the north-west of the hill of Kirriemuir, within a few yards of each other. The one of them is a block of whinstone, nearly oval, and is three feet three inches in height, nine feet in length, and four leet ten inches in breadth. The other, of Lintrathen porphyry, is two feet in height, eight feet in length, and five feet in breadth. The purpose for which these stones were erected is involved in mystery. Siandinff'Sianes. — Of these, the most early of all monuments, there are several in Kirriemuir, none of which have inscriptions of any kind* The most remarkable in this parish is the ^^ Standing-stone" in the hill of Kirriemuir, which has been evidently at some period split into two ; one part of it is still standing, the other is lying. The standing part is nine feet in height above the surface of the ground. At the base it is six feet and six inches in breadth, and at the top it is four feet and six inches ; it cannot be less than three or four feet in the ground ; and in the memory of man it tapered towards the top, but the projecting part has been knocked off. The lying part of the stone is twelve feet and nine inches in length. Tra- dition is silent as to the purpose for which it was erected.* Caves. — Tacitus observes, in his account of the manners of the Grermans, that it was their custom to dig caves in the earth, where they laid up their grain and lived in winter ; and that in these caves they would find shelter from their enemies. Of such caves several have been discovered in Kirriemuir. The most remarkable is the ** Weems Hole," on the top of the hill of the Meams, — ^built, as the Rev. George Ogilvy describes, with stone, and covered above with large unpolished stones about six feet wide. The entry lies towards the south ; and its course may be traced the length of sixty or seventy yards. The stones now covering the cave are over- grown with earth, and the total length of it is not perceptible. I have conversed with a person who was present at the opening of this cave, and who informs me, that a great many human bones, with some querns and other curiosities, were found in it The cave at Auchlishie, the " Weems Park," is another of these subterranean re- cesses; it was opened by the late Mr Wilkie of Auchlishie, when a currach and some querns were discovered. * Three other Rtanding-stoncs, and a variety of tumuli in tlic paritih, arc described in the original MS. FORFAR. M >. fc 178 FORFARSHIRE. Currachs. — I have just mentioned that a currach, or boat, was found in the cave of Auchlishie ; but as the proprietor, who would have preserved it, did not reside on his estate at the time, it was cut up for firewood by his farm-servants. In the summer of 1820, a canoe was found jn the peat of the loch of Kinnordy, — one extre- mity being scarcely below the surface.* This relict is not without its value to the geologist, as well as to the antiquarian, since it shows that some part even of the peat, which overlies all the marl, is of a date anterior to the historical records of the country.f It is the general opinion, that Christianity was early introduced into this parish ; but no tradition respecting the precise time lias come down to us. The parish abounds with the ruins of religious ho uses. Modem Buildings. — In 1815, the Trades-hall was built, the pro- perty of the different friendly societies of the town ; the lower part is let for shops, and the upper, a hall of considerable size, is re- served for the meetings of the societies and for other purposes. % Kinnordy is the residence of Charles Lyell, Esq. The garden is enriched by many rare plants ; and there is a museum, consisting of minerals, bones of animals, and antiquities ; there is also a col- lection of insects. Balnaboth, in the upper part of the parish, is the residence of the Honourable Colonel Ogilvy of Clova, the brother of the Earl of Airly. Logic is the residence of John Kinloch, Esq. of Kilry. The mansion-house of Balinshoe, the residence of the late Mr Fletcher, now in a ruinous state, appears to have been originally built without reference to any settled plan. Ballandarg is the seat of Francis Graham, Esq. of MoqAie, a member of the ancient family of Graham ; which, as Sir Walter Scott says, can boast of as great historical renown as any in Scot- land. To this family belonged Sir John the Graham, the friend of Wallace, who fell in the field of Falkirk ; the Marquis of Mon- • For an accurate description and figure of the canoe, the reader is referred to Mr LyelVs paper on a recent formation of fresh water limestone. f The original MS. contains an account of some querns, celts, or battle-axes, and arrow-heads found in the parish : also of the remains of the religious houses of Kil- hill, Chapelton, &c. There is also in the original MS. under this head, a notice of some remains of a Roman road, with an interesting discussion on the question, whether the great battle betwixt Agricola and the aboriginal inhabitants was fought in this parish. In the original MS. will be found also a lengthened description of the castle of In- Terquharity, with an elegant drawing. I It has lately been converted inlo a chapel for the Relief congregation. KIRRIEMUIR. 179 trose, in whom De Retz saw realized the abstract idea of the heroes of antiquity ; and Viscount Dundee, who fell in the arms of Tictory, although the severity of his temper, and the rigour with which he executed the oppressive mandates of the princes whom he served, can never be justified or palliated. Shielhill, on the banks of the South Esk, the property of Charles Lyell, Esq. of Kinnordy, enjoys perhaps the finest situa- tion inthe parish. * III. — Population. In 1801, the population, by the census, amounted to - 4421 1811, - - - - - 4791 1821, . - . - . 5036 1881, ----- 6425 The increase of population is supposed to be owing to the policy which has of late prevailed, of converting small farms into large ones. The surplus population of country parishes being obliged in consequence to congregate in towns, Kirriemuir has receiv- ed its full share of this emigration, from the increased facility for building, occasioned by the division of a commonty long in dispute, and the prospect of employment which the thriving state of the linen manufacture held out. The number of the population re- siding in the town, including the suburbs, is 4014 ; residing in the villages of Marytown and Ellenertown, 236 ; and residing in the country^ 2125. 1. Number of families hi the parish, .... 1526 of fimiilics chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 182 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 894 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 53 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, • 68 3. The average number of births yearly for the last 7 years, - . 160 of deaths, - - - . . 86 of marriages, - • - - 50 4. Tlic number of persons at present under 15 years of age is - . 2382 upwards of 70, - - -. 185 Resident Heritors. — The family of the Honourable Colonel Ogilvy of 'Clova, that of Charles Lyell, Esq. of Kinnordy, and that of Mrs Kinloch, relict of Colonel Thomas Kinloch of Kilry, reside in the parish. Language^ Character^ Sfc. of the People. — It has been remarked, * See original MS. for a detail of the various superstitions still prevailing in this, as in other parishes of Scotland, — in particular those of borrowing days, halloween, new moon, fairies^ &c. 180 FORFARSHIRE. that the people of Angus, as well as that of Aberdeen and the Mearns, are in many respects different from the rest of the Scottish nation. These counties having been the chief part of the Pictish kingdom, it is probable that they retain the greatest share of the characteristics of that peculiar people ; — ^having been less subject to the invasion of the English, but more frequently intruded upon by the adventurers of the north of Europe than the population of the southern lowlands. The language of the people, accordingly, is in many respects different from that which is current in the more southern districts of Scotland. Dr Jamieson, who lived long in this neighbourhood, remarks, in his introduction to his Scottish Dictionary, that the language of his country is spoken here in greater purity and more copiously than in any part of Scotland with which he was acquainted. His words are, " Having resided for many years in the county of Angus, where the old Scottish is spoken with as great purity as any where in Great Britain, I col- lected a vast number of words unknown in the southern and west- em dialects of Scotland. Many of these I found the classical terms in the language of Iceland, Sweden, and Denmark." It was here, accordingly, that he formed the resolution of writing a dic- tionary of the Scottish language. I have much pleasure in inserting the character of the parishion- ers, as given by the Rev. George Ogilvy in 1784: " They are not at all defective in Christian knowledge ; they can almost all of them read and write; among the tradesmen and trading-men there are not a few abundantly knowing. They attend ordinances on the Lord's day exceeding well ; live generally in good neighbourhood with one another, and carry kindly and respectfully enough to their minister. They were never fond of the English service-book and ceremonies ; but much better pleased with the worship of the Es- tablished Church." * Mr Alexander Peat, assistant to the Rev. Thomas Ogilvy, adds, " This account will in a great measure apply to the present state of the parish (1801). The people are not behind their neighbours in knowledge ; in their attendance on public ordinances they are in general very regular ; the higher ranks are regular in their at- tendance on worship in the places of meeting of their own persua- sion." It is believed that when Mr Ogilvy wrote, there was no " There are many traditions that seem to indicate a great rdughness of manners in the inhabitants of this and the adjoining parishes. See original MS. 3 KIRRIEMUIR. 18 L dissenting meeting in the town, except a Scots Episcopalian one ; since then the people have had their share of those jarrings and unchristian resentments which always accompany the introduction of new opinions. The Dissenters, who have been some time esta- blished here, live on a friendly footing with their neighbours ; and the members of the Established Church, the Episcopalians, and Seoeders, do not look upon one another as of different species, be- cause they happen to differ in opinion. I may add, that while ignorance and vice still abound, my parishioners are in general remarkably well-informed; and many of them are distinguished for the benevolence of their dispositions, their piety towards God, and the strictest integrity, sobriety, and temperance. For many years there has scarcely been a prosecution for poaching in game, or in the salmon fishing in the Esk. Smuggling has entirely dis- appeared. IV. — Industry. , Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of acres stand- ard imperial measure in the lower division of the parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, according to Mr Blackadder, is 11,000; and in the higher division there are of arable intersected with meadow and fine pasture, 2000 acres. The number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which re- main constantly waste, or in pasture, in the lower part of the pa- rish, is 2500, and in the higher part of the parish 15,500. The number of acres that might with a profitable application of capital be added to the cultivated land of the parish is extremely small. There is no part of the parish in a state of undivided common. In the lower division of the parish there are 2000 imperial acres in plantations, and in the higher there are 500. The waste sur- face of roads, houses, water, 8cc. may be estimated at 500 imperial acres. Rent of Land. — Mr Blackadder is of opinion that the average rent of arable land in the parish cannot be stated at less than L. 1 Sterhng the imperial acre. The average rent of grazing an ox three years old on fine pasture is L. 3; a milch cow, L. 3, 15s. ; and a ewe and Iamb, 12s. 6d. Hudnmdry. — It may be remarked, that there is in general a spi- rit of improvement apparent through the whole parish, and that the land is drained and cultivated according to the most approved me- thods. 182 FORFARSHIRE. Irrigation is practised in several parts of the parish, but espe- cially at Logie, the residence of John Kinloch, Esq. of Kilry. The enclosures are flooded by the Garie in November, and are continued so till the beginning of April. These enclo- sures have been in grass since 1770; and in consequence of the above practice, says the Rev. Thomas Ogilvy in 1792, " they are now the earliest and best grass fields in the country, and there is not perhaps any in Scotland superior to them. Before the above period," continues he, " they let at from 10s. to 12s. the Scotch acre, but last season from 60s. to 90s. per acre." Mr Peat adds, that in 1801 the rent had increased to L.5 Sterling per acre. The first six or seven years of watering promised no great advan- tage, but perseverance has increased their value ten times, and that, too, at a trifling expense. In 1830, these fields, after being fifty years in grass, were let for a course of cropping, some of them as high as L. 9, 5s. per Scotch acre. Last season was wet, but some of the fields produced 14 bolls of 6 bushels per acre. The advantage of irrigation is thus demonstrated not only in improving the grass, but also in ameliorating the soil. I only add, farther, that grass fostered by irrigation is found to be better adapted for cattle than for sheep. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. The state of farm-houses is in general good. A considerable part of the parish is enclosed ; partly with hedges, but chiefly with stone walls. The greater part of the parish is in the hands of industrious tenants, who follow the most approved methods of husbandry. Produce, — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish may be as follows : 1518 acres of turnips at L.6 per acre, - - L. 9108 539 acres of potatoes at L. 8 per acre> - - - 4112 250 acres of clean fallow, .... 2907 acres of new grass at L. 3, 10s. per acre, 2914 acres of two and three year old grass at L. 1, 10s. per acre, 31 14 acres of oats at five bolls per acre, ... 1864 acres of barley at five bolls per acre, 150 acres of wheat at seven bolls of four busheb per acre, 345 acres of Scotch bear at five bolls per acre, Produce of gardens and orchards, after deducting seed and labour. Produce of sale of wood after serving the state. Produce of moss, marl, and quarries, ... L. 56,615 10 Manufactures. — The only manufacture in the parish is that of 8074 10 - 4371 15.570 11,650 1575 1725 100 330 KIRRIEMUIR. 183 brown linen, introduced into the country after the Rebellion in 1745. It is supposed that not fewer than 3000 individuals are engaged in it, and that the number of webs woven may be 52,000 per an- num, containing 6,760,000 yards. This trade has increased three- fold since the beginning of the centurj. From November 1798 to November 1799, there were stamped 1,814,874 yards, and from Noyember 1799 to November 1800, 1,846,516 yards. There is no peculiarity in the mode of conducting this manufacture ; the manufacturers being all practical tradesmen, are well qualified to judge of the work when executed ; and the fabrics being few in number, the work is both well and expeditiously done. This ma- nufacture, when flourishing, has certainly afforded a fair remune- ration and support to those engaged in it, but for several years past it has not done so to those who have pursued it on a small scale. V. — Parochial Economy. Market- Town. — The only market-town is Kirriemuir; from which the parish takes its name. It is a burgh of royalty of great anti- quity, whose baron, the Lord Douglas, the representative of a fa- mily long the most powerful in Scotland, enjoys a fixed jurisdic- tion, both civil and criminal, which he may exercise by himself or his deputy. Before the abolition of hereditary jurisdiction in Scotland, his powers were exceedingly extensive, in virtue of which, " per fossam et furcam," that is, drowning in a ditch or pool, or by suspending on a gallows, he could punish all per- sons guilty of certain crimes, from the Law of Dundee to the Grampian mountains. If he imposed fines on criminals, he was allowed to appropriate them to himself. Mr Wood is said to have been the last deputy who exercised the power of life and death. For some goods stolen, he condemned and executed two individuals. Walker and Rob by name, and seized on their pro- perty ; and it is generally said, that avarice influenced him as much as a sense of justice. The functionaries who succeeded Mr Wood seem to have conducted themselves with propriety, — the most of them keeping " brewseats ;" and, as there is " more law in good ale than in any in Westminster-hall," the lieges were accustomed, under their auspices, to make up their disputes under a quaich of their favourite beverage. Since 1748, the bailie can judge in no civil actions where the debt or damage exceeds forty shillings Ster- ling; and in cases of assault, battery, and minor offences, he can impose a fine not exceeding twenty shillings Sterling, or set the de- 184 FORFARSHIRE. linquent in the stocks in the day time, for not more than three hours. The fine is to be levied by poinding the delinquent's goods, and in default of these, by imprisonment for a period not exceeding one month. The restrictions lying upon the baron are now so heavy, that Mr Erskine says, they amount nearly to a prohibition of the criminal part of his jurisdiction. The town of Kirriemuir stands in a healthy and pleasant situa- tion, partly on a flat, and partly on an inclined plane, about 400 feet above the level of the sea. The form of the town may be fanci- ed to resemble an anchor. The view from the lower part of it is bounded by the southern brow of the Den ; from the higher part is seen nearly the whole extent of the magnificent valley of Strath- more. But the most extensive view in the parish is from the hill of Kirriemuir,— the summit of which is a place of considerable ex- tent, terminated by a bold and precipitous front on the south, but descending in every other direction with a gentle inclination. Here the spectator has only to turn his eyes towards the east where the hills of the Mearns present themselves washed by the German ocean ; from the top of which hills blazed of old " the baleful fire," warning the inhabitants of the district of the approach of danger. In this direction, too, are seen the picturesque heights of Fin- haven, which resemble vast undulations. When satisfied with this part of the prospect, the spectator may turn his eyes to the north, where a wilder scenery presents itself, — a sea of hills, around whose sununits ^^ the stormy mist gathers," reach- ing the confines of dark Lochnagar " with its steep frowning glories." From these hills the Prosen and the Esk, and other mountain-streams, come down with " thundering din." Towards the west, are the lofty mountains of Perthshire with " Birnam wood," and ^^ high Dunsinnan hill," rich with classical associations, and hal- lowed by the footsteps of the bard of Avon. Towards the south, on either hand, as far as the eye can reach, the glorious valley of Strathmore presents itself, with its hundred towns, its churches, castles, villas, plantations, lakes, and streams, bounded by the Sidlaws, whose sides are either clothed with woods, or enriched with luxuriant crops of corn ; in shorty there is nothing wanting to render the scenery unrivalled, but a huge arm of the sea or a mighty river, rolUng its current along the strath. The population of Kirriemuir, including the suburbs, amounts to 4014; and no town in the county has a better weekly market. It is the seat of a Justice of Peace Court for the district, includ- KIRRIEMUIR. 185 ing the parishes of Glenisla, Lintrathen, Airly, Kingoldrum, Cor- tachy, Tannadice, and Oathlaw : and the peace of the town is kept by a nomerous constabulary. Several years ago, G. L. Meason, Esq. of Lindertis feued two parts of his property, which have now swelled into villages, — Ihe one, Marytown, containing 136 inhabitants ; and the other, Elli- norton, the inhabitants of which amount to 108. Means of Communication. — The north mail arrives at Kirrie- muir every morning. About fifty years ago, the revenue from the post-office amounted in one year, after paying the necessary ex- pense, to no more than 8d. ; it now amounts to L. 360 per an- num. lliere is only one turnpike-road at present in the parish, and it does not extend to more than three miles. The most import- ant bridge is at Shielhill, over the Esk. The bridge over the Pro- sen was widened lately at the sole expense of the Earl of Airly. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is conveniently situated for the lower part of the parish ; and no part of the population of this district is distant above three or four miles from it. The pa- rish church was built in 1787, and is in an excellent state of re- pair. It is seated for 1260. There are no free sittings. The manse was built in 1774, but so insufficiently, that it was repaired in 1787. It was again repaired in 1802. This year it will undergo a thorough repair. The glebe consists of four acres and one rood. The minister is allowed L. 20 Scots, in lieu of a grass glebe. The teinds of the parish were valued in 1634. The stipend, as modified in 1812 by the court of teinds, amounts to 191 bolls of grain, — two-thirds meal and one-third barley, — and L. 72 Sterling, inculding L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There are no chapels of ease attached to the Established Church ; but there is a missionary minister on the Royal Bounty, who officiates alternately in Clova, one of the united parishes of Clova and Cor- tachy, and in GlenprosJBn, connected with Kirriemuir. There is one meeting-house in connection with the Original Constitutional Synod; another in connection with the United Secession Church; and a third in connection with the Relief. There is also a small congregation of Independents, who meet in the afternoon of the Lord's day for worship and mutual edification. The ministers are respectably supported by the contributions of their hearers. The 186 FORFARSHIRE. • Rev. Mr Aitken, and his colleague, the Rev. Mr Anderson, have each L. 60 per annum. There is also an Episcopalian chapel. The great body of the people, however, is attached to the Esta- bUshed Church, and the number of Dissenters and Episcopalians caonot be estimated at more than one-seventh part of the population. About 300 (1831) attend the meeting in connection with the Ori- ginal Constitutional Synod, 200 of whom are conununicants; fully more attend the meeting in connection with the United Secession church ; 220 are communicants, 13 of whom come from adjoining parishes. The congregation in connection with the Relief is only forming, and the communicants (1831) are not above 40. There are now upwards of 200 communicants. The Independents consist only of a few families. The Episcopalians are not numerous. Divine service at the Established Church, and, I understand, also at the several chapels, is generally well attended. The com- municants in connection with the Established Church are not fewer than 2500. In 1830, the number of actual communicants was 2021, and in the chapel at Glenprosen, 189; in all, 2210. Societies for Religious Purposes. — There are several societies for religious purposes established in the parish. 1. Bible Society, auxi- liary to the Bible Society of Edinburgh ; 2. Missionary Society, auxiliary to the Missionary Society of Edinburgh ; 3. Ladies' So- ciety for promoting the Education of Females in India ; 4. Sabbath School Society. Probable average amount of the yearly contribu- tions to the societies: — The Bible society was instituted in 1821, since which, L. 122, 8s. Id. have been collected ; or on an ave- rage, L. 12, 4s. 9Jd. per annum; the Missionary society was insti- tuted in 1821, since which, L. 368, 2s. 7d. have been collected ; or on an average, L. 36, 16s. 3d. per annum ; the Ladies' society was instituted in 1823, since which, L. 45 have been collected ; on an average L. 5, 12s. 6d. per annum ; Sabbath School society was instituted in 1817, since which, L. 18 per annum have been col- lected. The probable annual amount of church collections for religious purposes, exclusive of what is collected for the poor, is about L. 14. Education, — The total number of schools in the parish (1831) is 16, — 1 parochial school, 2 endowed schools, 12 unendowed schools, and one supported by subscription of individuals. The Greek, Latin, and French languages, with practical mathematics and geo- graphy, are taught in the parochial school, where the average num- 4 KIRRIEMUIR. 187 ber of scholars is 200. One teacher has the charge of the clas- sical department, another of the commercial, and a third of the English. Heimf$ Mortification. — Mr Henry of Kensington, a native of Kirriemuir, bequeathed in trust the sum of L. 1400 to the mini- ster and elders ; the interest of L. 1200 to be laid out in educat- ing and furnishing with school-books, pens, ink, and paper, twelve boys, or as many more as the money would educate ; and the inte- rest of the remaining L. 200 to be paid to the parochial school- master for keeping the accounts. In consequence of some diffi- culties which had arisen respecting some part of Mr Henry*s pro- perty, the whole matter came before the Lord Chancellor, who settled it in the following manner : The capital having been placed in the funds at an advantageous time, his Lordship found to be L.2192, 3s. 6d. 3 per cent with L.394, 12s. SterUng of accu- mulated interest: he determined L. 50 Sterling of this interest to purchase ground for building a school-house, and L. 100 Sterling to be expended on the building ; the interest of L. 200 Sterling was allotted to the schoolmaster, and the interest of the remaining sum was to be applied to the education of as many boys at the pa- rochial school as could be admitted on it, at the rate paid for the education of other boys. The boys are entitled to remain at school four years, and on completing that period, they are entitled to re- ceive a Bible. They are treated in all respects as other scholars, and in case of a competition for admission, a preference is given to boys of the name of Henry. They are taught the common branches of education. On this fund, there are educated about 50 boys. The Webster Bequest. — John Webster, Esq. writer, and agent for a branch of the British Linen Company, in 1829, left by his will the whole of his property, amounting to upwards of L. 8000, to Charles Lyell, Esq. of Kinnordy, to the minister and elders of the parish, and the officiating baron-bailie of Kirriemuir, for insti- tuting, erecting, perpetually endowing, and for regulating a school in the town of Kirriemuir, at which the youth of the town and pa- rish might be instructed in the arts and sciences, or in such branches of education as his trustees might think most suitable. The trus- tees are at present engaged in collecting the money, which they are securing in the funds ; and, as soon as the amount is ascertain- ed, they will erect suitable buildings, and endow schools, in terms of the will. As they are anxious that the poor should receive in 188 FOBFARSHIRE. the meantime benefit from the bequest, they have agreed to pay the parish schoohnaster for the education of twenty boys at the same rate as for the boys who are educated on Henry's mortifica- tion. They have also erected a female school for educating fifty poor girls in such branches of education as are suitable to their years and sex. Both of these plans are temporary, and may at any time be altered or superseded. The parochial teacher's salary is L. 36, 7s. 2d. including L. 2, 2s. 9 Jd. in Ueu of garden-ground ; and the amount of school fees received may be L. 100. The salary of the schoolmistress on the Webster bequest is L. 40 per annum, including L. 5 for rent of school-room and for coals. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations. The number of the young betwixt six and fifteen years of age who are not receiving instruction in reading and writing is small. The number of persons upwards of fifteen years of age who cannot read or write is not one to a thousand. The people through the whole parish are alive to the benefits of education ; and there can be no doubt that a visible change may be observed in the conduct and morals of the people since the facilities of education have been in- creased. Libraries. — A subscription hbrary was instituted in 1830. There is also a library attached to the Sabbath schools, contain- ing 800 volumes and tracts ; and a circulating library. There is a public reading-room, which is furnished with two London daily papers, two Edinburgh papers, published twice a-week, and two provincial papers. The people, in general, are attached to this species of reading. About fifty years ago there was but one news- paper, which served the whole parish. Now about 200 copies of various newspapers come weekly through the post-office. Friendly Societies. — There are 11 or 12 friendly societies in the parish, some of which are upwards of thirty years' standing. I regret to say, that, as in other places, they have been constructed on false calculations ; and the time will come when they must either die a natural death, or be dissolved. This has been the fate of some of them already ; and unless their articles be revised, as those of the Gardeners' Society have lately been, that of others will soon be the same. Savings Bank. — For three years the minister, in conjunction with James Forrest, Esq. agent for the British Linen Company's branch, superintended a saving bank ; but, owing to the small rate 1823, L. 180 6 4 1824, 212 18 m 1825, 250 4 6;( 1826, 227 14 2 1827, 804 5 4i 1828, 264 17 2i 1829, 291 4 9) 1830, 290 6 I0| KIRRIEMUIR. 189 of interest on the sums deposited, few availed themselves of the priyOegew Poor and Parochial Funds, * 1814» - - L. 215 7 11 1815, - - 200 12 3 1816, - - 208 2 Hi 1817, - - 544 17 di 1818, - - 219 13 Oi 18ia - - 271 17 6i 1820, - - 199 15 7i 1821, - - 184 1 10 1822; - - 174 12 In 1830, the collections for the poor were as follows : Church collection, L. 141, 5s. lid.; mortcloth, L.22, 6s.; penalties, L. 18^ 12s. 6d. ; donations, L. 15, 5s. 3d. ; legacies, L. 13; retum- ed, 1m 6, 10s.; proceeds of effects of paupers, L.5, 7s. 8Jd.; in- terest on stock, L. 2 ; in all, L. 224, 7s. 3d. There is no other regular mode of procuring funds for the poor besides that of church collections. There has hitherto been a strong disposition among the poor in general to refrain from seeking parochial relief, but I regret to observe it is fast declining. Prison. — There is a lock-up place of considerable strength, chiefly employed for confining vagrants till they are brought to justice. Fairs. — There are two great annual fairs held on the hill of Kirriemuir, the one in July, and the other in October, for sheep, cattle, and horses; there are two smaller ones held at the same place, the one in June, and the other in December, for the same purpose. Innsj Sfc. — There are in the -parish 6 brewers, 1 maltman, 1 chandler, 1 tobacco-manufacturer, 52 dealers in tea, 48 in to- bacco, 4 in vinegar, 31 in beer, 31 in spirits, and 7 in wine. The effects of the number of spirit-sellers on the morals of the people are obvious. Fuel. — The fuel commonly used is coals from Dundee, peats from the mosses in the neighbourhood, and wood from Glammis, Lindertis, and Kinnordy. Miscellaneous Observations. This parish has so few advantages of situation, that all the luxu- * For an account of the annual amount of contributions for the relief of the poor, from 1814 to 1824 inclusive, see statement relative to the pauperism of Kirriemuir, drawn up by the minister for the information of the heritors, and published in 1825. 190 FORFARSHIRE. ries, and many of the necessaries of life, are brought from the coast, a distance of twenty miles ; and the nearest road is across a range of hills, in many places steep, and difficult of access. The want of water is at all times justly complained of, and in years of drought much inconvenience is experienced ; but it is with no small degree of satisfaction that I have to remark, that all these disad- vantages have been in great measure surmounted by my parish- ioners. By the skilful hand of culture, our " muirs" have become garden^, and the wilderness hterally blossoms as the rose. The landholders have laid out their estates in fanns of a convenient size, and thriving woods and plantations wave in all directions. Our morasses have been drained ; and corn crops, of the most extraor- dinary luxuriance, now grow on lands which had lately been the habitation of the lapwing and other water-fowls. The water of the Garie is also carefully collected by us into dams ; and it is wonder- ful how many com and plash mills, on the most improved con- struction, are set in motion by it. Although the yarns must be carried from the shores in carts and along roads constructed on the common principles, * and although the cloth, when manufac- tured, must be carried back by the same rude conveyance, such is the ingenuity of our weavers, and such their industry, that we are not only able to compete with our rivals in the more favoured towns on the coast, but even to bear away from them the palm of victory. In proof of this, I have only to mention, that upwards of 50,000 pieces of linen, of various fabrics and qualities, are annual- ly manufactured among us ; and that several mill-spinners in Mon- trose and Dundee, — towns possessing many natural advantages to which we can lay no claim, — have been accustomed, for some time past, to send their yams to be woven in this distant quarter, — a measure which they never would have had recourse to, did they not find it their interest to do so. Our streets are regularly cleaned and lighted, as in larger towns ; and the landholders in the neigh- bourhood have only to countenance our undertakings, and the ob- structions complained of by them and by us will be removed. It may be remarked, in concluding, that there is an immense tract of country, with a numerous population, on the northern side of the Grampians, to which Kirriemuir is by many miles the nearest market ; but the inhabitants have been hitherto prevented from ^ It gives me the greatest pleasure to say, that, since the above was written, there is now Uic greatest probability that the Newtilc rail-road will ere long be extended to Kirriemuir, which cannot fail to be of the greatest advantage to the parish. LOCHLEE. 191 sTaiUng themselves of it from the want of a road over the Capul Mount. I am happy that this want has seriously attracted the notice of the landholders on either side of the Grampians, — that the country has been surveyed, — and that a line of road has been chalked out by Mr Blackadder for the sanction of Parliament I have no doubt that in time it will be carried into effect ; and that, while it will be of incalculable advantages to the parishes of the north, it cannot fail of being of the greatest use to the trade of Kirriemuir. by die Writer December 183a PARISH OF LOCHLEE. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID INGLIS, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries^ Sfc. — The parish of Lochlee derives its name from a lake in the west end of the parish. Its extent from east to west is about 15 miles, and its mean breadth 7 miles; — but the inhabited part does not extend above 8 miles in length, and 3^ miles in breadth. Its superficial extent is upwards of 100 square miles. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Birse, Aboyne, and Glenmuick, in Aberdeenshire ; on the west by Cortachie and Clova ; on the south by the united parishes of Lethnot and Navar; and on the east by Edzell. Its form is a parallelogram. It is situate among the Grampian mountains, the highest range of which separates it from Aberdeenshire. The elevation of Mount Keen, (the summit of which forms the division between the two coun- ties,) on the north-west, is about 4000 feet; and Mount Bat- toch, on the north-east, is 3465 feet. The various mountains on the north-west and south are from 2000 to 3000 feet above the level of the sea. Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere for eight months is cold and sharp : for the other four months, it is mild. In July and August the weather is sometimes very hot ; but throughout the year the climate may be considered as •generally healthy. In the months of August, October, and November, the greatest quan« FORFAR. N 192 FORFARSHIRE. tity of rain falls ; and, owing to the elevation of the parish above the level of the sea, there are frequently heavy falls of snow during winter. The rainbow, halo, and particulariy the polar lights, sometimes make a brilliant appearance. During spring, the wind blows generally from the east; and during winter, from the north. Hydrography. — In this parish there is a vast number of fine springs, whose waters, for their medicinal virtues, are not excelled by any in Britain, and have been found extremely beneficial in cases of strangury and gravel. The loch or lake before referred to is formed by the cavity of high rocky mountains, which encompass it on all sides except the east ; and is supplied with water by rivers, springs, and streams. Its length is a mile and a quarter; and its mean breadth half a-mile : the depth towards the middle, twenty fathoms. The principal rivers are the Lee, and the Unick, which joins the Lee a mile above the west end of the loch. The water which issues from the loch at the east end retains the name of Lee. The Lee, the Mark, and Brany, — all three unite opposite the new church, and form the North Esk. This river in its course through the parishes receives the Effock, Tarf, Keeny, and Turret, with many tributary streams : it runs very rapidly until it emerges from the Grampian mountains at the Gannachy Bridge, and falls into the German Ocean three miles north-east of Montrose. From the sources of the Mark and Lee, including its windings, it runs about fifty miles. Geology. — The strata generally dip in an easterly direction, fol- lowing the course of the North Esk. The mountains and hills are composed of primitive rocks, of mica-slate, trap, limestone: and granite forms the summits of the highest mountains. A vein of lead-ore runs through the parish in a direction nearly east and west. In the year 1728, a company of miners were em- ployed in making trial of it, but the quantity was so small, that it would not defray the expense of working. Since that time no other trial has been made. The mountains and great part of the valleys are covered with heath, strong benty grass, and peat-moss. The soil through the whole parish rests on a tilly gravelly bot- tom ; is thin, but when lime is applied, becomes tolerably produc- tive, provided the crop be not blasted with early frosts, which often happens. In that case, it is of little or no use, except for the straw. This has taken place four times within the last twenty-five years. LOCHLEE. 193 * Zoology. — The foxes in the parish have been very destructive to lambs; but by hunting, and other means used for their de- stnictioD, their number has of late been greatly diminished. Many badgers and wild cats are found among the rocks and cairns ; but they seldom do hurt to the sheep. Foxes and wild cats destroy a great number of grouse, which in a favourable season are plenti- ful on the moors. The Alpine hare abounds on the hilb ; and deer and roebucks traverse the glens. The high inaccessible rocks are frequented by largo eagles and hawks. There are a few com- mon bares and partridges on the low grounds. Vipers or adders, some of very large size, are numerous in the parish ; and lizards abound in all the moors. Wild geese and swans visit the loch sometimes in winter. The breed of cattle, sheep, and horses is the same as in the low country ; but the cattle never attain to the same weight. A small flying insect during the evenings of August and September is very troublesome to the people from its bite ; but the least breath of wind makes it disappear. Botany. — An immense quantity of bog-myrtle abounds in the marshy ground ; and foxglove and other plants of various kinds are found on the hills and in the valleys. There are several acres of natural birch wood of the very best kind growing on the sides of the hills ; there are also a few ash- trees, mountain-ash, alders, or Scotch mahogany. Several of the hills are well adapted for Scotch fir ; and larches in particular, though at present there are no plantations of these in the parish, would thrive remarkably well, if the sheep were kept from hurting theoL II. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — It may be worth while to record, that Alexan- der Ross, A.M. parochial schoolmaster, and author of the For^ tunate Shepherdess, a pastoral poem of considerable merit, was interred in this parish. He died forty-eight years ago, at the ad- vanced age of eighty-four. Land-^xcner. — The Right Honourable Lord Panmure is sole proprietor of the parish. Parochial Register. — The parish register of births extends as far back as the year 1730. This parish was disjoined from Lethnot, and erected into a separate charge in 1723. Parochial registers of marriages, baptisms, and burials are now regularly 194 FORFARSHIRE. kept. The age and diseases (if known) of all persons dying are carefully recorded. Antiquities. — Several tumuli occur upon the low barren ground of the parish. One of these was opened some time ago by a black- smith, who found in it the head of a battle-axe, which he did not scruple to make into hob-nails. The only building of antiquity is the old castle of Invermark, situate opposite to the manse. It was built in 1526. It was long the residence of the Lindsays, the proprietors of the parish. The rdof was taken off forty years ago : but the walls, which are up- wards of three feet thick, and remarkably strong, may stand for other three centuries. III. — Population. The population has varied little for the last hundred years. At present it is rather less than at the census of 1821, in consequence of the stop that has been put to smuggling within the last four years. In 1821, the population was 572; in 1831, it was 553. There are no villages in the parish. 1. Number of families in the parish, - - 120 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - 60 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 8 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 1 3 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 13 S. Tlie average number of births yearly for the last seven years, . 15 of deaths, - .9 of marriages, - - 5 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - 150 upwards of 70, - 25 Character and Habits of the People, — In general, the people a«*c i*emarkably cleanly in their houses and persons ; as also in their food, which is plain and substantial. They enjoy all the neces- saries, and many of the comforts, of life. Kindness to strangers .is one of their distinguishing characteristics ; and, being content- ed with the lot which Providence has assigned them, they can feel for the distresses of others ; their hospitable doors are ever open, and the beggar is not sent empty-handed away. They are pos- sessed of much natural shrewdness, which many of them have im- proved by extensive reading ; and they attend punctually to the ordinances of religion. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The arable land is so much scattered throughout the parish, that the number of imperial acres cannot be very accurately ascertained, except by actual measure- ment. Probably 1400 acres may be very near the gross amount; LOCIILEE. 195 while there are upwards of 60,000 acres that have never been under tillage, 200 of which might be reclaimed at an expense of from L. 12 to L. 16 per acre. There are about 100 acres of natural wood, consisting almost entirely of birch, with a few ash, alder, and rowan-tree or mountain-ash. Sent ofLcmd* — When the arable land bears so small a propor- tion to the waste, it is impossible to say what the average rent of the former is ; but it is generally considered not worth more than 15s. per acre, the hill pasture in many small farms being given along with it Bate of Wages. — Labourers, besides victuals, get from lOd. to Is. per day during winter, and from Is. to Is. dd. per day during sunmier;— carpenters, masons, &c generally receiving about twice as much. Farm-servants and shepherds get from L. 5 to L. 7 during the half year; and female servants, during the same period, from L. 2 to L. 3, 10s., exclusive of victu&ls. Breeds of Live^Stock. — ^Much attention has of late been paid to the breeding of cattle, horses, and sheep. The two former are of the Angus breed, but the cattle are small ; the latter, principally black-faced, are bought in the south country when lambs, at from L. 5 to L. 7 and L. 8 the clad score. About 3000 lambs are reared from ewes within the parish. To encourage the rearing of sheep within the parish, or the importation from the south country. Lord Panmure has, with his usual liberality, established an annual show at Millden, where he gives prizes to those of his tenants who bring forward the best samples of sheep. Husbandry. — Most of the farmers observe a rotation of six years in cropping, viz. a white, a green, two white, and two grass crops. All the new leases are for nineteen years ; but there are still a few liferenters in the parish. There are a very few enclosures; and, in general, the farm-houses and steadings are in good repair, and are upheld by the tenants. Great improvements have of late years been made by many individuals in trenching baulks, '&c. and in making close fields. Prorfifce.— The average annual value of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows :— ^ Oats and big about - - - L. 2000 Potatoes and turnips, - - 800 Haj, principally cultivated) - - 200 Land for pasture, viz. for 340 full-grown cows and osen, at 15s. per head, 180 Land for 16000 sheep, at Is. per head, - - 800 Wool from the same, about - 600 Total raw produce, - L. 4580 196 FORFARSHIRE. V.*— Parochial Economy. Market'Tawn and Means of Communication. — The nearest mar- ket-town is Brechin, 22 miles from the manse, and 15 from the lowest end of the parish; and there are two weekly carriers to Brechin, who also bring up letters and newspapers. A new line of road, 7 J miles in length, has been formed since 1829 from the east end of the parish to the manse ; which road is now in good repair, the greatest acclivity being about one foot in twenty- four. There are three stone bridges in the parish, — one over the Tarf, built in 1830, of superior workmanship; and two others in tolerably good repair. Besides these, there are many wooden bridges, two of which are over the North Esk, and others are for the private accommodation of the farmers in their neighbourhood. Ecclesiastical State — The church is situate near the west end of the inhabited part of the parish, and the greater part of the po- pulation resides to the westward of it. It was built in 1803, re- paired and enlarged in 1824, and is seated for 270 persons. The seats are divided among the tenants, and are all rent free. The manse was built in 1803, repaired and enlarged in 1828. The glebe is of very large extent, but contains only twenty-four acres arable, and is worth about L. 24 per annum. The stipend is made up by Government from L. 89, Is. to L. 150. There is an Episcopalian chapel in the parish attended by 25 families, or about 1 13 individuals, exclusive of those who come from the neighbouring parishes. The EstabUshed Church is attended by 96 families, consisting of 440 individuals of all ages. The ave- rage number of communicants is 250 ; and the average amount of church collections is L. 22 yearly. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, one parochial, and the other endowed. Latin, Greek, and geography are some- times taught at the parish school. The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, L. 34, 4s. 4d. besides what was mortified to a catechist, both offices being conjoined about 100 years ago. The emoluments of the latter office are from 100 merks, 6 bolls of meal, and 10 imperial acres of land, of which 8 are arable. The nominal fees are, for reading, 2s. ; for reading and writing, 2s. 6d. ; for arithmetic and Latin, 5s. per quarter ; but no fees have been exacted for a considerable time past. The schoolmaster of the endowed school has a salary of L. 10 from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge in Scot- land ; a house, garden, and six acres of land from Lord Panmure ; LOCHLEE. 197 part of the land is not arable, but can easily be made so. He also recenres from L. 10 to L. 12 yearly in fees. There are no persons in the parish above six years of age who cannot read, and very few who cannot write. Ubrwry. — There is a parochial library containing upwards of 130 volumes, principally of a religious nature. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is from 8 to 10; and they receive from Is. to Is. 6d. per week. The total amount yearly distributed among the poor may be about L. 24 ; of which L. 2 is the interest of mortified money, and the remainder from church collections. luM^ 8^c. — There is one licensed alehouse in the parish, which is too much frequented, especially during winter. FueL — Peat and turf is the fuel on which the inhabitants prin- cipally depend. Miscellaneous Observations. The yearly rent of the whole parish in 1714, amounted to L.284, 4s. 6§d. Sterling: in 1792 it was L.385, 12s.: in 1832 it was L. 984 Sterling. A number of the farms which have been lately let have been raised to 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 times the former rent. Some of them let within these twelve years are from 10 to 25 per cent, above the real value, considering that the price of cattle, wool, and sheep, has fallen more than one-half since that time. December 183a PARISH OF TANNADICE. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. J. BUIST, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries. — The name of this parish was formerly spelt Tannadyse ; but in more modem times it is spelt Tannadice. Both are obviously resolvable into Taynatas^ a Gaelic word, which signifies " a low warm green plat upon the water." A better de- scription could not be given in any number of words, of the low shel- tered bottom, situated on the South Esk, on which the church, manse, and kirk-town or village stand. But although peculiarly ap- plicable to these, it is not so to much of the rest of the parish, which is in the form of an obtuse-angled triangle; the side sub- tending the obtuse angle, which is from 11 to 12 miles lor^, separating on the E. and N. E. the parish of Tannadice from those of Careston, Fern, and Navar; and the sides which contain the obtuse angle, separating Tannadice on the S. E., S. W. and N. W. from the parishes of Aberlemno, Oathlaw, Kirriemuir, and Cor- tachy. The boundary lines contain not less than 60 square miles of surface, or 38,400 imperial acres. The longitude of the parish is about two degrees east, and its latitude forty degrees north. Topographical Appearances, — From the S. E. point of the triangle, the surface of the parish gradually rises in undulating ridges to the foot of the Grampians. Of these, the most eleva- ted is called St Arnold's seat, which is nearly 500 feet higher than the parish church, and not less than 800 above the level of the sea. Nothing of the history of this saint is known, nor is any rea- son assigned for his resting on this lofty eminence, surmounted by a large cairn. The view from this height extends to the Scottish capital, — having the Pentland and Lammermuir hills in the back ground, with much varied and interesting scenery intervening. Hydrography. — There are two beautiful streams in the parish, the one called the South Esk, the other, the Noran, on whose banks a showy house and court of offices were lately erected, and TANNADICE. 199 from their situation called Noranside. The former of these arises from Loch Esk, in the parish of Clova, about twenty miles above the kirk of Tannadice ; within which parish the latter also arises ; and both unite at the south-east angle of the parishr The course and quantity of water of the former arc treble that of the latter. Both afford' excellent amusement to anglers ; but it is only in the Esk that salmon is found, and that in quantities so inconsiderable that no one has appropriated them. Mussels may be found in the Esk ; but neither so numerous nor valuable as they are reported to have formerly been, when many of them were annually collect- ed for sake of the pearls of uncommon size which they contained. Geology. — A dike of whinstone rock runs from east to west the whole breadth of the parish. No other stone appears on the south of this dike ; but close to it, and on the north, there lies a reddish coarse sandstone, which is quarried at various places, and fit for different purposes, particularly for building dikes. This stone gra- dually grows darker in the colour, till it reaches nearly the summit of the lower Grampian ridge, where blue slates are found ; but these are small, and considerably warped, — circumstances which, together with the ease and abundance with which gray slates can be got, prevent the blue from being much quarried. This vein appears to be a continuation of that which originates at Johnshaven, in the Mearns, and terminates at Easdale, in Argjleshire, and is advantageously quarried in the neighbourhood of Dunkeld, New- tyle, and other places. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — Three conical tumuli called Laws have in this pa- rish been levelled, and the ground on which they stood cultivated within these few years. In these tumuli, coarse earthen pots or urns were found, protected and surrounded by six flat square stones, and containing a quantity of black ashes, probably the re- mains of the illustrious dead ; while the remains of the less eminent seem to have been deposited in, and covered by the same number of stones, called coffins, but without any urns or ashes, or accumula- tions of earth. Perhaps the bodies of the former were burned, while those of the latter were not so honoured. Modern Buildings. — Downiepark is a splendid mansion, and ele- gantly furnished. It was erected by the late Lieutenant- Colonel Rattray of the Bengal artillery, and is occasionally inhabited by his widow, the liferentrix of this and his other property. This house has, on the north, a near view of the towering summits of the 200 FORFARSHIRE. lower Grampain range, covered with native heath, or clothed with thriving larch, lately planted by the Earl of Airlie ; and nearer still, the castles of Cortachy and Innerquharity, with their policies of aged wood, the South £sk winding amongst them its dark, troubled, and noisy way to the ocean. — About two miles farther down the stream, stands the house of Inshewan, very lately built by its present worthy occupant, John Ogilvy, Esq. who constantly resides there with his family. On the north of this house is a moor lately planted, which promises soon to become a great orna- ment, and to afford much shelter. — About four miles still farther down, stands the house of Tannadice, built about thirty years ago by Charles Ogilvy, Esq. who acted about twenty years as a sur- geon in the East India Company's Service. It has in front, the Esk, with a bridge over it of three arches, and the castle and hill of Finhaven, and is surrounded by young planting of the proprietor's own raising. — Nearly opposite, and on the other side of the water, is the house of Whitewell, the property of Gemmel, Esq. which he inherits from a paternal grandfather. There are also the houses of Easter Ogle and Wester Ogle, and Glenquiech ; and on Wester Markhouse, Major Swinbum has just built a hand- some dwelling in the style of the English cottage. Land-Owners. — There are, in all, twelve proprietors in the pa- rish, — none of whom draw a rent of less than L. 300 Sterling. Their valued rents are as follows : — Peter Wedderburn Ogilvy, Esq. of Ruthven, - - L. 1218 6 8 George Lyon, Esq. of Glen Ogle, W. S. Edinburgh, - 800 John Ogilvy, Esq. of Inshewan, ... 533 6 8 The Right Honourable David Earl of Airlie, - - - 449 3 10 Charles OgUvy, Esq. of Tannadice, - - - - 386 10 Donald Sinclair M^Lagan, Esq. of Glenquiech, ... 266 13 4 Mrs Rattray, relict of Lieutenant- Colonel Rattray, Esq. of Downicpark, 220 16 8 John Kinloch, Esq. of Kilrie Logic's Cairn, - - - 216 13 4 Alexander Simpson, Esq. of Easter Ogle, .... 200 Migor Swinbum of Markhouse, - - - - 180310 The Honourable Lord Fife, - - - - 180 Gemmel, Esq. of Whitewells, - - 145 Scots, L. 4796 14 4 Parochial Registers. — In these no funerals and but few mar- riages are recorded; and the register of baptisms, which com- mences in the year 1693, has not always been very regularly kept. III. — Population. On a map, engraven about fifty years ago from a survey of the county made by Mr Ainslie, the population of this parish is stat- ed to be 2000. By the census of 1801, the population is nearly TANNADICE, 201 ISOO. At the former of these periods, there were many small holdings in Glenquiech, and more particularly in Glen Ogle, the dwellings on which have been demolished, their patches of plough- ed land and gardens converted into pasture, and the whole let as sheep-forms. From these circumstances the decrease of popula- tion may be easily and satisfactorily accounted for. By the cen- sus of 1831, the population was 1560. This increase may be ac- counted for from several feus having been granted, and good houses erected on them, and from a number of new houses having been built by one proprietor, in the village. The spinning and plash- mills have also tended to increase the population. The number of fiunilics in the parish is - - • 294 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 120 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 72 Nine licensed ale and whisky-houses, spinning and plash-mills, bothies, and a heckling-house, contribute nothing to improve the morals of the population. Nevertheless, the people are generally moral in their conduct, and regular in attending public worship. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There are 106 holdings of land in the parish di- rect from the proprietors; but of these more than a half are under forty acres ; some of them not exceeding four or five. The re- mainder are divided into farms, extending from 100 to 400 acres of arable land, the greater part of which are enclosed with dikes of reddish sandstone. The soil is so various that the produce may be calculated at from three to four times as many bolls per Scot- tish acre. Rent of Land. — The maximum of rent is about L. 3, 10s. per Scottish acre. Husbandry, — Alternate husbandry is universal. The rotation varies from four to seven years; and small slight two-horse ploughs, some of them of iron, and more of thems)f wood, are exclusively used. On almost every farm, and indeed on several pendicles, the grain is separated from the straw by mills driven by water or horse. The offices and farm-houses are constructed of stone and lime, and covered with slate, and all of them are comfortable and commo- dious. The hills or lower part of the Grampians, comprehending up- wards of two-thirds of the surface of the parish, are pastured by about 2400 sheep, which, when lambs, were brought from Lin- ton at nearly double the price which they would have cost four years ago. During the two or three years they are kept, they yield 202 FORFARSHIRE. from two to three pounds per fleece of very indifferent wool yearly. The carcases, when fattened on the hill, as they sometimes are, weigh from eight to ten pounds per quarter of well-flavoured mut- ton. But the far greater part, when rising three or four years old, are sold in October, to be fed off with turnips, — when they in- crease generally to about fifteen per cent, both in weight and value. Cattle and Horses. — Many black-cattle are raised, and when ris- ing three years old are stall-fed to the weight of from thirty to sixty stones of excellent beef, much of which is sent to Glasgow or London. The breed of horses is good, and few are used of an inferior description. Spinning Mills, Sfc. — There are two spinning, and twice as many plash-mills, — the former of which may each throw off from 1300 or 1400 spindles weekly. No flax produced in this parish is spun at the mills, which are suppHed from Dundee and Montrose. Much yarn is brought from the same places to be cleaned, where w^ter and water-power are abundant ; and opportunities are not wanting in Forfar and Kirriemuir of converting the yarn into cloth, in which form it is returned to the ports already mentioned. V. — Parochial Economy. . Means of Communication. — Of the great thoroughfare by Dun- dee to the north, there are about three miles in this parish, viz. from the bridge over the Esk at Finhaven, to that over the No- ran at Nether Careston. This piece of turnpike, on which there is a toll-bar, is both nearly straight and level, and is easily kept in excellent order. There are two principal lines in the parish that lead to this turnpike ; these, from the great number of very heavy loaded carriages daily, almost hourly, traversing them with coals, grain, flax, yarn, &c. are expensively kept up, and are now in indifferent repair. The other lines of road are numerous and long, and are barely passable in winter. There are four stone bridges over the Esk, — one of them with an arch of 105 feet span, being wholly, and the other three partially, in this parish. Ecclesiastical Stale. — The Archbishop of St Andrews had been in use to let the teinds ; and the tacksmen levied the ipsa corpora. St Mary's College having become titulars, continued the former practice of uplifting the teind till the year 1718, when the whole annual value of the parish was, upon oath, ascertained to be 15,000 merks Scots, of which a fifth, or 3000 merks, became teind ; of this, the College allowed a third to the officiating resi- dent clergyman: of the remaining two-thirds, they were finally TANNADICE. 203 relieved, by a decreet of augmentation obtained thirty years ago. StUl the living is very inadequate to the charge. The glebe, ex- clusive of garden, &c consists of eight Scotch acres, and if valued at the same rate as a few additional acres which the incumbent rents, would be worth L. 28 Sterling. The church has had a choir and an oriel window, — indications of a Roman Catholic origin. It is in a tolerable state of repair, but otherwise verj' inconvenient and uncomfortable. The manse was built in 1797, and has since received an addition, and, as a whole, is substantial, comfortable, and most delightfully situated. The other accommodations are of later erection than the manse, and are spacious and substantial. The parish church, which is but indifferently seated, may contain 650 persons. The communicants are about 570, besides about 100 who annually communicate at Cortachy ; in all, nearly 700. Three of the heritors are of the Episcopalian persuasion, and two are Presbyterians. There are three women and one man who attend the Secession. An Episcopalian minister officiated in the parish church till the year 1716; but, being favourable to the rebellion, he was dismissed, and his son was hanged. The people then elected and got a Presbyterian minister ordained and admit- ted ; but in the course of six years he became so unpopular, and was so grossly slandered, as to be deposed ; but upon a review of the sentence, it was found so iniquitous that it was cancelled in a few years ; yet the poor man had neither opportunity nor encou- ragement to exercise his restored privileges, as another had in the meantime been installed in his place. Nor did the latter long en- joy his situation. On his death, St Mary's College wished to fill up the vacancy, but the person they recommended being rejected, another was popularly elected. At next vacancy the patrons exer- cised their right, and after going more than once the round of all the church courts, made it good. If the three former incumben- cies were stormy, this was a hurricane, terminated only by death, the settler of all controversies, and leaving a large debt for law expenses. Education. — The parochial schoolmaster has an excellent dwell- ing-house, and teaching-room apart, — both beautifully situated. His accommodations are good, and his salary the maximum. There are other three male teachers in the parish, — one of whom depends nearly altogether upon school-fees ; but besides fees, the otlier two have teaching-rooms, dwelling-houses, and gardens, free, and not less than L. 10 annually, by subscription or otherwise. There are about as many female as male teachers in the parish ; 204 FORFARSHIRE. of these, one has a beautiful cottage, and well kept garden, some bolls of meal yearly, and a supply of milk daily, all from the gene- rosity of Lady Airly. The reading of English, the various uses of the needle, French, and music, are taught in this female seminary, where boarders are kept The two nrst branches only are taught in the other schools, and the mistresses have no sources of support except the fees* About 200 children receive instruction in the elementary and higher branches of education. There are also two Sabbath schools, one of them taught gratuitously by some mem- bers of the minister's family, and other well-disposed individuals. All persons in the parish above seven years of age can read, and there are but very few who have not made some additional lite- rary attainments. Libraries. — We have two parochial libraries, viz. oto in the vil- lage, kept by the parochial schoolmaster; the other in Glen Ogle, kept by the schoolmaster in that district. The latter consists prin- cipally of moral and religious books and tracts, with a few historical works ; the former consists of all these, with not a few fictitious compositions. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Nearly a century ago, there ap- pears to have been, during several years, a parochial assessment for the support of the poor, which was found to be not only trouble- some and expensive, but also demoralizing. There being a small sum, or parochial fund, belonging to the poor, it was raised by donations and collections, until in the year 1796 it amounted to L. 210 Sterling. This stock, though reduced by the four very se- vere seasons of 1799, 1800, 1816, and 1822, amounts at present to L. 318 Sterling, bearing four per cent, interest on good security. The interest, with the weekly collections made in the church, mort- clotK money, and occasional donations, amounts in all, according to the annual balance-sheets of the three last years, to from L. 75 to L. 78 annually. This sum is distributed amongst four families and eight individuals, whose allowances range from 2s. 6d. to 10s. monthly ; besides house rent, fuel, shoes, &c. But there are many who receive privately donations in money, meal, flannel, &c. — they eking out, by their own industry or the aid of others, what farther is necessary for their support. In this way, they are either not known, or not considered, as paupers. Savings Bank. — A savings bank, on a sure foundation, has existed twenty years in the parish, in which there are deposited upwards of L. 300, greatly to the benefit of both male and female shareholders. 4 TANNADICE. 205 The latter always draw out on the certain prospect of marriage; and the former, when any situation of independence casts up. The in- terest is a comfortable addition to the incomes of many. FueL — Eyerything capable of ignition is used as fuel, viz. whins, broom, brushwood, turf, peats, and coals; the last can be pur- chased at Montrose for Is. Id., or a little more per barrel, of 10 stones English weight, or 160 pounds. The upper part of the parish, to which coals were almost inaccessible, can now be as easily supplied from the depot at Newtyle by the rail-road, as the lower from Montrose. There are thirteen taxable carriages at pre- sent running in the parish, some of them with four, and others with two wheels. Forty years ago there was not one of either descrip- tion. Few c{f the roads, indeed, were suitable for such vehicles. Miscellaneous Observations. The principal improvements within the last forty years have been already mentioned. It may be added, that, if we may judge by the longevity of many, the parish is very healthy. A few years ago seven men and a maiden lady died in one year, all upwards of eighty years of age : and last winter, a man, who had been at the battle of CuUoden, died at the age of 104, and another only twelve years younger. Tliere are at present upwards of ten persons alive about eighty years of age; and three nearly ninety. January 1835. PARISH OF KINNETTLES. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ROBERT LUNAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish appears to have derived its name from the GaeHc word Kinnettles^ signifying " the head of the bog." The following circumstances probably gave rise to. it. The bottom of the extensive vale of Strathmore, which comprehends the northern part of the parish, appears, from several internal and external evi- dences, to have formed, at a remote period, the bed of a large river or lake, which, finding a pretty level passage into a small valley among the Siedlaw hills, formed a kind of bay or bason, — which, when the water was diverted into another channel, formed a bog or marsh : at the head of that bog, a church was built, probably in the twelfth century, — which gave the name of Kinnettles to the pa- rish. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish is about 2 imperial miles in length, 2 in breadth, and, comprehending 3078 imperial acres, contains about 4J imperial square miles. It is bounded on the west by the parish of Glammis ; on the north by the parishes of Glammis and Forfar ; on the east by the parishes of Forfar and Inverarity ; and on the south by the parish of Inverarity. Its fi- gure is nearly a square. Tojwgraphical Appearances. — Being pretty equally divided from east to west by an oblong hill, the parish is situated partly in the vale of Strathmore, and partly in the valley formed among the Siedlaw hills. In consequence of this oblong hill rising nearly in the centre of the parish, the surface of the ground is generally far from being flat. The west, north, and east sides of the hill have a gentle declivity to the extremities of these sides ; and the south side de- clines more rapidly towards the rivulet, where the ground begins to rise with a gentle acclivity towards the southern extremity. Hence the parish has four different aspects, of which the one to the north is the largest. Now, the hill which produces all these varieties of aspect is one of the detached Siedlaw hills, called sometimes the KINXETTLES. 207 hill of Brigton, and sometimes the hill of Kinnettles, because it is divided betwixt the proprietors of those two estates. This hill, whose form approaches to that of an ellipsis, whose flattish top rises about 356 feet above the level of the sea, and whose attractive appearance strikes the eye of every beholder, especially when viewed from the south, instead of disfiguring, adds considerable beauty to the parish. Its beauty arises chiefly from its gentle acclivity, from its great fertility, and from its being all arable and under various agricultural crops, except a very few acres on its brow, which, being very steep, somewhat rocky, and not easily approach- ed by the plough, are closely covered with various kinds of thriv- ing wood. Tlie view on all sides is grand and extensive. Meteorology^ Sfc. — This parish, owing to its vicinity to the German Ocean, and the situation, at least of nearly the one-half of it, among the Siedlaw hills, has an atmosphere of considerable humidity. Among the prognostics of weather, it may be noticed that a small acquaintance with physiological botany, finds in the economy of some plants several satisfactory indications of the state of the weather. Thus, the Convolvulus arvensis^ Anagallis arveitsis^ Ca- lendula pluvialisy shut up their flowers against the approach of rain; whence the anagallis has been called the poor man's weather- glass. There is, in the parish, a species of soft gray sandstone, which, when built in the wall of a dwelling-house, and not coated on the inside with lime or clay, indicates rain, by becoming gloomy and moist before rain. This parish enjoys a variety of climate, corresponding to the variety of its elevations and exposures. Those parts of it which are little elevated above the valleys, have a mild and genial cUmate ; whereas those that are more elevated on the north, east, and west sides of the hill of Kinnettles, and on the north side of the hill of Kincaldrum, whose summit, and part of whose base, are situated in the parish of Inverarity, enjoy a purer and colder climate. But, as the highest grounds in the parish have only a moderate elevation above the level of the sea, the climate is, on the whole, justly entitled to the character of good and salubrious. It was not so, however, forty years ago, because a considerable portion of tfie parish was then in a state of marsh and meadow, saturated with stag- nant water. But in consequence of a general drainage throughout the parish in the course of the last twenty years, there is little or no stagnant water to be found. Of course the air, although occa- sionally moistened with eastern haars or fogs, which come from the FOIIFAR. o 208 FORFARSHIRE. German Ocean, and with the hoar-frosts to which the lower parts of the parish are more exposed than the higher, is remarkably pure and healthful. In proof of this, we have no diseases that can be said to be local. Agues, which were prevalent before drainage commenced, are now unknown ; fevers of every kind occasionally make their appearance, yet they are not epidemical. Consump- tion, scrofula, hooping-cough, croup, measles, inflammation, and typhus fever, may be said to be our most prevalent diseases. Hydrography. — This parish is generally well supplied with water by means of the numerous springs in which it abounds. These springs are partly perennial, and partly periodical. The perennial springs appear all to flow from sandstone rocks, and probably from the rocks composing the basis of the southern range of the Sicdhiw hills. Their water is pure and soft. Their temperature generally corresponds to that of the atmosphere; and they have no peculia- rities worthy of remark. There is one perennial spring, however, at the Kirktown, that justly deserves observation, not so much on account of the quality of its water, which is excellent, as on account of the quantity which it discharges. To convey some idea of its uncommon strength, it was found, on pretty accurate measurement, to discharge no less a quantity than 25 imperial gal- lons per minute, 1500 per hour, and 36,000 per day. In some parts of the parish, particularly the more elevated, there are a few periodical springs, which flow during winter and spring, and then cease to flow till the return of winter. Their water is, compara- tively, much inferior in quality to that of the perennial springs. Being chiefly the offspring of surface-water imbibed by the earth, it is impure, hard, and strongly impregnated with the properties of the media through which it is conveyed. Besides the two kinds of springs already mentioned, there are several mineral springs, generally distinguished by the name of chalybeate, because they contain a portion of iron in solution. Their waters are exc'^ced- ingly hard, unpleasant, and ill adapted for washing and bleaching clothes, and for culinary purposes. There are also two beautiful mineral springs from copper ore, the waters of which, though ex- hibiting a glistening surface, are extremely impure, of an offensive smell, and a disagreeable taste. Although this parish can boast of no river, yet it is beautifully diversified by a large rivulet, called Kerbit, which, taking its rise in Dilty-Moss, in the parish of Carmylie, seven miles distant east- ward, follows a north-west direction, till it forms a junction with the KINNETTLES. 209 Dean, then with the Isla, and finally with the Tay ; and after fol- lowing tf most circuitous and somewhat ellipticjil course of seventy- two miles, it falls into the German Ocean, about ten miles to the southward of its source. It is a gentle flowing stream, about 20 feet in breadth, 2 feet in depth, and flows with a velocity of one mile per sixty-six minutes. It drives a multitude of mills, abounds in large and excellent trout, and afibrds much sport to anglers, with whom its winding banks are sometimes thickly planted, during the spring and summer months. It is naturally pacific : but after a great fall of rain, or an efiectual thaw of a winter storm, when the melted snow and ice run down in torrents from the hills, it swells to an almost incredible extent, and lays hundreds of acres of arable and meadow ground under water. Geohgy and Mineralogy, — The rocks, which enter into the com- position of the hill and of the inclined planes of the parish, are whinstone, sandstone, and slate. The whinstone rock makes its appearance under the varieties of pure whinstone, trap, and basalt, in three distinct parts of the parish. But although it thus appears in a detached state, it is in all probability related to the Siedlaw range, where a zone of whinstone strata seems to be formed, run- ning, with occasional interruptions, from S. W. to N. E. Its ex- tent is considerable, particularly in the hill of Kinnettles, where it shows itself almost uninterruptedly from the one end of the hill to the other, whose length is not less than three-fourths of a mile. Although its depth is very considerable, varying from 40 to 100 feet, yet the thickness of its strata is not great. In consequence of its numerous intersections, the blocks of which it is composed are generally small, and very irregular. The three varieties of this rock are worked in the parish. Two of these, situated in the north- em district, furnish stones of a dark blue colour; and the third, situated in the southern district, furnishes stones of a paler colour on the fracture, and externally muddy, resembling the colour of a toad. In all the three the rock is very difiicult to work, and the stones which they furnish, being extremely hard in their texture, of small size, and irregular in their shape, are useful only as road- metal, and for filling drains. The sandstone or freestone rock, whose colour is partly gray and partly tinged with red, is very con- siderable in its extent. It not only forms the base of the hill which rises in the centre of the parish, but traces, at a certain depth, its unbroken connection with the extensive range of freestone which per- vades the whole chain of the Siedlaw hills. This rock is stratified to 210 FORFARSHIRE. the very surface, has four strata of puddingstone regularly intersper- sed among the strata, and detached yolks imbedded in the pure strata. It furnishes stones of very large dimensions. Its strata towards the surface are thin, but, thickening downwards, they be- come so massy that they cannot be raised without the assistance of gunpowder. The slate-rock, which is a species of fine gray sand- stone, and the only rock of the kind yet discovered and opened in the parish, does not appear to be very extensive. It is situated on the north bank of the rivulet, and appears to form part of that slaty range which extends, with several interruptions, from the commencement to the termination of the Siedlaw hills. It fur- nishes slates, but particularly flags, of good quality, of considerable size, and of a dark gray colour. From a minute examination of the component parts of our globe, geologists and mineralogists have been led to conclude, that its structure has been formed by the junction of various formations. In support of this conclusion, all the rocks in this parish discover evident marks of stratification and seams of distinct concretions. The strata and beds of the whihstone rocks have a direction from E. to W., an inclination of 7** 12' to the W., and a dip of 9° 45' to the N. The strata and beds of the sandstone rock have a di- rection from E. to W. nearly, an inclination of 11° 45' to the S. W., and a dip of 15^ 30' to the N. W. The strata and beds of the slate-rock have a direction from E. to W., an inclination of 15° 28' to the W., and a dip of 18° 10' to the N. W. In the three spe- cies of rock which have just been described, numerous veins are quite discernible. They frequently cut across the strata, and occasion- ally derange their structure. But while the veins, which cut the whinstone strata in all directions, are generally filled with a ferru- ginous cement, those which ramify in the freestone and slate strata are generally filled with clay, and sometimes with camstone, — which appHes more particularly to the veins of the slaty strata. In the different species of rock already mentioned, various ores are to be found. The sandstone contains copper imbedded, and lead disseminated in veins ; but the quantity is so small, that it would not pay the expense of extraction. The whinstone, parti- cularly that species of it called basalt, abounds in manganese, dis- seminated in veins, but is not worth working. The freestone rocks contain various minerals, — such as garnet, mica, calc-spar,' quartz, lime-spar. The solid rocks of whinstone, sandstone, and slate, which com- KINNETTLES. 211 pose the interior parts of the area of the parish, are covered, al- most universally, with a coating of various materials, which con- ceals them, with a very few exceptions of basalt, from our view. That coatmg, whether thick or thin, as it varies from one foot to six feet, is composed of alluvial deposits, generally imposed in layers. The lowermost layer generally consists of reddish sand or gravel ; and the uppermost is composed sometimes of sandy loam, and sometimes of loam mixed with clay. Soil. — To the agriculturist, variety of soil, corresponding to the variety of crop which he grows, must be extremely useful. Accord- ingly, this parish fortunately enjoys the various soils which are suited to the purposes not only of the agriculturist, but also of the horticulturist, the botanist, the florist, and the nurseryman. Tliese soils are the clayey, loamy, sandy, gravelly, and mossy. However diversified may be the strata of the subsoil, they all, with the ex- ception of the mossy, appear to rest, at various depths, on sand- stone or freestone. Their adjuncts and concomitants may be stated as follows : — o M Extent in Varying depth ,«^_^ , t, j . Soils. . • • u Wetness or dryness. Productiveness* imp. acres. in inches. ' * *w«uvn»ci««:w». Clayey, 434 From 12 to 36 Dampish. Most productive. Loamy, 1881 10 to 18 Moderately dry. Nearly as productive. Saudy, 252 8 to 15 Dry. Less productive. Gravelly, 839 6 to 13 Generally dry^ Still less productive. Mossy, 172 14 to 48 Wcttish. Least productive. From the stratifications discernible in all these soils, it appears highly probable that they have been transported. That this has been the case with regard to the sandy, gravelly, and mossy soils in particular, must be obvious to every intelligent geologist In former times, when the superficial area of the parish presented one continuous field, without dike or ditch, and when it was par- tially cultivated by a great number of small tenants, who tilled their parcels in alternate ridges, depositing all the stones which they collected on the cultivated ridge, on the intermediate uncul- tivated one, boulders prevailed to a great extent in the several soils ; but, as soon as the spirit of cultivation began to operate with new energy, and on a more extended and efficient plan, many of the most manageable of these boulders were either blasted with gunpowder and carted away, or trailed off the ground by means of a strong sledge, drawn by oxen and horses. And, now that agriculture has reached a degree of perfection unknown to our forefathers, few, comparatively, of these stones are to be seen on the surface of the 212 FORFARSHIRE. ground. A few of them, indeed, are still to be met with in the ground ; but when they are found, they are either blasted, or sunk into the earth beyond the reach of the plough. Being frequently of great magnitude, some of them of two or three tons weight, the removing of them was often a task of Herculean labour. As some of them are granites, some mica-schiSts, some porphyries^ and some globular masses of quartz or silicious spar, they appear to demon- strate that they are not natives of the place, — and that, by means of attrition, they have been rounded and diminished in size, in pro- portion to the distance they have travelled. The following is a view of the plants and animals most fre- quently and peculiarly attached to the soils, and to the banks of the Kerbit : Soil. Plants. Animals. Clayey, - Spcar-thistle, xnilk-tbistle, dock, smear- Plover, wild-goose, dock, rcsthanrow, redshank, mush- grub, slug, worm, room, daffodil, wild-hyacinth. Loamy, - Ragwort, crowfoot, dandelion, wild vio- Hare, partridge, corn- let, mountain, daisy, sorrel, spearmint. craik, hedgehog. Sandy and gravelly. Knot-grass, couch-grass, whin, broom, Lark, mole, centi- wild raspberrj'. pcde, beetle, toad, ant, lizard. Mossy, - Rush, flag, horsetail, colts-foot, cotton- Lapwing, snipe, wild> grass, marsh-marigold. duck, frog. Banks of Kerbit, Willow, elder, queen of the mead, water- Water-rat, otter, ho - cress, fungi. ron, kingsfisher. Although several springs in the parish strongly indicate the presence of iron and copper ores, there is not a mine of any de- scription worked. In an inclined plane, on the north-west base of the hill of Kinnettles, coal was, long ago, supposed to exist. About seventy years ago, the supposition became generally so strong, that the proprietor of Brigton employed some practical miners to make a search. This they did by boring to a considerable depth ; and tradition says, that, in conducting the search, a stratum of coal was actually found, but that the miners were bribed. There is still an idea that coal might be extracted from the place referred to. Zoology. — The only species of animals among our native qua- drupeds, which are seldom to be found in some neighbouring pa- rishes, are, the fox, badger, polecat, squirrel, weasel, hedgehog, and otter. Tlie migratory birds are, the lapwing, plover, swallow, cuckoo, landrail, kingsfisher, woodcock, wild-goose, and heron. With the exception of the woodcock and wild-goose, which generally appear in the beginning of winter, these birds make their appear- ance about the beginning of May, for the purpose of breeding, and KINNETTLES. 213 take their departure about the end of September. The heron, however, is frequently to be seen in winter on the banks of the Kerbit. In regard to their live-stock in general, the farmers in this pa- risli, though generally more disposed to graze and feed than to breed and rear, are equalled by few, and surpassed by none in the county. Whether they breed and rear, which they do to a con- siderable extent, or whether they purchase to supply the deficiency, which they often do, but always with the greatest care, they gene- rally make a point of keeping a live-stock of superior quality, large size, and great value; and thus, since the introduction of en- closures, turnips, potatoes, and sown grasses, there has been a re- markable improvement of every species of live-stock. The cattle, formerly of small, are now of large size; and when well fed on turnips, potatoes, or grass, — a practice extensively followed in the parish, — they are much esteemed in the Edinburgh and Glasgow markets, where they bring high prices. Nor are the farmers less conspicuous for the superior stock of horses which they keep. Wliether they breed and rear their own horses, which they gene- rally do in a great measure, or whether they make purchases from the south and west country dealers to make up the deficiency of rearing, which they occasionally do, but with the utmost caution and nicest selection, they never fail to keep up a choice stock. Tlie case was different in former times. When roads were bad, and when most carriages were performed on horseback, and when the plough and wain were drawn chiefly by oxen, the breed of horses was comparatively small. But the native breed has been improved, both in size and shape, in proportion as they have been regularly worked, well fed, and amply provided with winter pro- vender. To such perfection have they been brought, that a pair are now sufficient for the cart or plough ; and, in drawing these implements, they perform more work, and to better purpose, in a given time, than six oxen, preceded by two horses, did in the days of our fathers ; and in such estimation are the horses that have been reared in the parish held, that a pair, when sold, often bring from L. 60 to L. 80. The number of swine reared and fed in the parish has been greatly on the increase for several years past. Two breeds of swine, with various mixtures and crosses of these, are to be found in the parish. The first kind has large slouched oars, long bristles on the dorsal ridge, long shaggy hair, and a long 214 FORFARSHIRE. tapering snout Tliey feed to eighteen or twenty stones, imperial weight, and, when well fed, make excellent pork ; but the small Chinese breed abounds most, and feeds from eight to ten stones, imperial weight Those who keep a stock of hogs generally keep them in good condition, and feed them highly. Every species of corn grown in the parish is less or more ex- posed to the depredations of insects. Wheat suffers from slugs ; but the greatest eneniy that has yet assailed it, is a fly that was introduced in 1826, and that made its appearance in 1827. This insect inserts into the ear its ova, which, soon becoming small worms, injure it very much. In consequence of the rapid and ex- tensive depredations of this insect, wheat has been almost banished from the parish for the last six years. Fortunately, however, the last crop has suffered but little from its ravages, and hopes are en- tertained that it will soon disappear from this quarter. II. — Civil History. The ancient history of this parish appears to be involved in great obscurity. Although the old church and tower, which stood in the present churchyard, and which were taken down in 1812, exhi- bited strong presumptive evidence of their having been erected in the twelfth century, yet no authentic account of the parish can be traced beyond the era of the Reformation. At that period, and for about 200 years after, its extent was much less than it is at present; then, the Bishop of Dunkeld was proprietor of about 200 Scotch acres of land, which, though locally situated in the parish of Caputh, lay conterminous with the southern extremity of the parish, and were held on lease by a tenant called Alexander Pyott. From his principles and practices, Pyott appears to have been a discerning, selfish, staunch, papist Alanned at the pro- gress of the Reformation, he repaired to Dunkeld, in order to hold an interview with his bishop concerning the state of public affairs. The bishop received him most cordially : and on Pyott's assuring him that he would strain every nerve to resist the progress of tlie Reformation, he immediately wrote out a disposition of the said lands in Pyott's favour. On receiving this document, Pyott, exult- ing at the success of his visit, returned home with his new acquisi- tion ; and, without loss of time, he repaired to his hoHness at Rome, and got the deed of conveyance confirmed by a Popish bull, — in virtue of which it is held at the present day. The last Popish pro- prietor of the lands in question, sinking into poverty, sold them in KINNETTLES. 215 1758 to the Earl of Strathmore; and in 1773 the General As- sembly of the Church of Scotland annexed them, quoad sacra^ to the parish of Kinnettles. Eminent Men. — Only two eminent men seem to have been con- nected with this parish for the last 100 years. The first is Colonel William Patterson, son of a gardener to Mr Douglas of Brig- ton, about the middle of the last century. Honoured with the patronage of Lady Mary Lyon of Glammis, he rose to the dignified station which he filled during the greatest part of his remarkably diversified life. He was connected with the parish by birth, as well as by residence in his early years. * The other eminent character alluded to is John Inglis Harvey, Esq. of Kinnettles. He was born and resided in this parish till he attained the age of sixteen years. After receiving a classical education in his father's house, he was sent to one of the English universities, where he was instructed in general literature and science, but in the law department in particular, and where he car- ried several prizes. Having thus qualified himself for some con« spicuous station, he, about twelve years ago, obtained an appoint- ment to a very honourable and distinguished ofiice in the East In- dies ; and afterwards ascended the bench as a civil judge in that country. Land-Burners. — The land-owners in the parish are, the Earl of Strathmore ; Robert Douglas, Esq. of Brigton ; John Inglis Har- vey, Esq. of Kinnettles ; Captain John Laurenson of Invereighty ; and Mr John Wighton of Muiryknows. Parochial Registers. — The kirk-session is in possession of six • The cenotaph in the church-yard of his native parish bears the following inscrip- tion : Sacred to the memory of Colonel William Patterson, Fellow of the Uoyal So- ciety, Member of the Asiatic and Linnean Societies, Lieutenant-Colonelof the 102d Kegiment, and for many years Lieutenant-Governor of New South Wales. He served thirty years in the army, — twenty-five of which were passed in the East Indies^ and in New South W^ales ; and, in fulfilling his duty to his country, he twice circum- navigated the Globe. His taste for Natural History induced him in the earlier part of his life, to travel from the Cape of Good Hope into the interior of Africa, into which country he penetrated farther than any European had ever done before him. His unwearied assiduity in the pursuit of science, supported in an unusual di^ee by talent and zeal, enabled him to collect, and bring to England, specimens of plants and other curiosities till then unknown. He discharged with honour and fidelity the trust reposed in him as an ofiicer ; and his services were particularly valuable in New South Wales, as I^ieutenant- Governor of that settlement. Nor did he there neglect his favourite pursuit, but continued to enrich both public and pri\'ate museums, by employing his leisure hours in useful researches. His life was not less amiable than useful ; and his happy dis(>osition endeared him to his dependents, to society, and to his friends. After a long period of ill health, he attempted to return to lus native country, but it pleased God to take him during his voyage. He was born in this parish on the 10th of August 1755, and died on the 21st of June I8I0. 216 FORFARSHIRE. volumes of old parochial registers, comprising entries of the pro- clamation of the banns of marriage, baptisms, deaths, discipline, collections, and disbursements. These entries, however, are ex- ceedingly irregular, intermixed, and imperfect; and marriages, births, and burials, are entirely omitted; but in 1806 the mode of entry was altered, and a new arrangement adopted. A new set of registers, six in number, neatly bound and titled, were introduced in 1820. Vol. 1. contains an entry of the proclamation of the banns of marriage, and of the marriage itself; vol. 2. births and baptisms; vol. 3. deaths and burials; vol. 4. income; vol. 5. expenditure; vol. 6. discipline. All the volumes, twelve in number, including old and new, are carefully and regularly kept. Antiquities^ 8fc. — In the churchyard are to be found some tomb- stones of considerable antiquity. One is distinctly dated 1626, another 1630. A few, from the quality of the stone, the form of the letters, and the strange figures engraven on them, ap- pear to be somewhat older ; but the inscriptions which they bear are nearly effaced. There are also a few stones exhibiting un- known characters, apparently very old : and there are two other mo- numents, somewhat of a colossal kind, designed with much taste, and executed in a masterly style. But of all the sepulchral mo- numents, those erected in 1814, by and for the families of Brig- ton, Kinnettles, and Invereighty, are by far the largest, and the most substantial. — Not many yards distant from the south bank of the rivulet, stands a rising ground, somewhat conically shaped, which, from its having been, time immemorial, called Kirkhill, is generally supposed to have been at some remote period the site of a religious house. — After the parish church was filled with Protestants, the proprietor of Foffarty, aided by the Papists in the neighbourhood, set about building a popish chapel on his property, and appointed a priest to conduct the Romish service, to whom he gave a manse, offices, garden, glebe, and salary. That chapel was erected on the margin of a den at the foot of Kincaldrum hill. It was burnt by a par- ty of royal dragoons in 1745, and remained roofless and ruinous for many years. The area of the building, and a considerable por- tion of the walls, were distinctly visible so late as 1816. Then the ruins were dug up from the very foundation, and carried away to fill up drains. Mr Bower of Kincaldrum, a Roman Catholic, to- gether with the male part of his family, removed the stone which held the holy water, as a precious relict, to his own premises, where 4 KINNETTLES. 217 it is still to be seen. The glebe, which belonged to the priest, and which consisted of four Scotch acres, lay at no great distance from the chapel. It remained for many years unclaimed by any person, after the chapel had been burnt and deserted. Even after the Earl of Strathmore had purchased the lands of Foffarty, ho did not venture, for a considerable time, to break ground upon it, although it lay a kind of waste in the midst of his cultivated fields. At last, however, he did take possession of it, and bring it into cul- tivation. But as it was locally situated, with the other lands of Foffarty, in the parish of Caputh, the present minister of that pa- rish advanced his claim to it, once and again, between twenty and thirty years ago ; but lost it in the Court from the want of a charter, and from the want of occupancy. The whole lands of Foffarty being church lands, pay no minister's stipend, but hold cum deci^ mis inclusis. But although the chapel above described had been long burnt and deserted, the late Mr Bower of Kincaldrum did not renounce, but stedfastly adhered to, the Roman Catholic reli- gion: and he converted one of the rooms in the old mansion- house of Kinnettles (of which he was then proprietor) into a cha- pel, — erecting an altar in it, arid employing the Catholic priest of Dundee to officiate at stated times, when he himself, his family, and a few scattered Papists in the neighbourhood, attended wor- ship, and celebrated mass.* — In 1833, one of the ploughs in a grass- field, dug up in a pretty entire state of preservation, what an anti- quarian would be disposed to consider a great curiosity in this part of the kingdom, an " upper millstone of a hand-mill." It is 25^ inches in diameter, IJ inch thick, nearly quite circular, neatly hewn with the chisel, and displays the nicest workmanship around the small circular opening in the centre. The stone of which it is composed is mica-schist, has a leaden colour, contains a mixture of silicious spar, and is thickly studded with small garnets. It is probably of great antiquity. The mortar appears to have been the earliest instrument that was used in combination with the pes- tle, for grinding corn. But as this proces was very laborious, at- tended with little execution, and productive of the coarsest manu- facture, it was probably soon superseded by the invention of the mola manuaria^ or hand-mill, which was for ages worked by bond- men and bondwomen. As this mill was more effective, and fur- nished mecii of better quality than that produced by the mortar * The MS. contains a description of several coins of Jaines I.» George I., &c. found in the parish. 218 FORFARSHIRE. and the pestle, it was probably invented in the earliest ages. But, being originally imperfect and susceptible of improvement, it was gradually improved as the sphere of mechanical knowledge was enlarged. With a view to abridge manual labour, it came in pro- cess of time to be so constructed as to be worked by oxen and horses. This improved forjn of it appears to have existed at an early period ; for we find that moles jumentarice were employed from the very origin of the Roman republic. And as Strabo, Vitruvius, and Palladius inform us, that water-mills were introduced in the reign of Julius Caesar, hand-mills were probably laid aside about the beginning of the Christian era ; and, of course, the millstone above described, may be 1600 or 2000 years old. Modem buildinffs, — Most of the buildings in the parish are of modern erection. The church was built in 1812, of stone and lime, and roofed with blue slate. With the exception of the old man- sion-house of Kinnettles, a part of the large mansion-house of Brig- ton, the mansion-house of one of the farmers of Ingliston, the man- sion-house and mill of Invereighty, and the mill of Kinnettles, which was greatly enlarged and repaired in 1830, — all the man- sion-houses in the parish have been built within these fifty years. While those mansion-houses which were built upwards of fifty years ago are generally built of stone and clay, and covered partly with gray slates and partly with thatch ; those that have been built since are generally of stone and lime, and covered partly with gray slates, and partly with blue. But the mansion-houses of all the proprietors and of some of the farmers are covered with blue slates. The large and spacious spinning-mill at Douglastown four stories high, and of proportionate length and breadth, was built of stone and lime towards the end of the last century, and covered with blue slate. IIL — Population. In 1775, the population amounted, according to a pretty accurate statement, to GIG And in 1790 to . - - - 621 In 18G0, 260 males, 307 females. - - 567 1811, 242 280 - - 522 1821, 273 293 ... 566 1831, 246 301 - - 547 The causes of the decrease of population are, non-residence to a limited extent, emigration, enlarging of farms, and razing cottar- towns or hamlets, of which three, called the Frouchment, Cotton of Invereighty, and Cotton of Ingliston, were razed towards the end of the last century, while their inhabitants, amounting to upwards KINNETTLES. 219 of dOOy were driven from their habitations ; also the resorting of the poor and of operatives to towns, where they more readily find a residence, and where they meet with more employment and on easier terms than in the country. Number of the population residing in two villages, . . 214 in the country, . - 33:) The yearly average of marriages for the last 7 years, ^ . . 0^ of births, - - . . 16 of deaths, .... 9 The average number of persons under I d years of age, - . 197 betwixt 1.J and JJO, • . 143 l)etwixt &0 and 50, - - 134 betwixt 50 and 70, - - 56 upwards of 70, - - 17 The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of Ij. 50 and upwards, 5 of families in the parish is - . . 106 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 35 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 51 Number of bachelors upwards of 50 years of age,* 6 ; of widow- ers, 4 ; of widows, 10 ; of unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age, 9 ; number of families, 106 ; average number of children in each family, 3^ g ; number of inhabited houses, 96 ; number of houses uninhabited, ; number of insane persons not natives, in the parish, 2 ; of fatuous 1 ; of blind, 2. Customs J Character of the People. — The dress of the people, if not the same as that of the English, must be allowed to be a very close imitation of it; and no class is so poor as not to have an abun- dance of plain, wholesome food. The people generally live in commodious houses, follow agreeable occupations, enjoy a compe- tency of the means of subsistence, live on friendly terms, and main- tain a reciprocal exchange of good offices. They bear generally a fair moral character ; nor are they inattentive to the duties of religion. The best proofs which they can give of the esti- mation in which they hold the Bible, and the character which it is calculated to form, are, their acquaintance with the Holy Scriptures, their observance of the Sabbath, their celebration of the sealing ordinances of the Gospel, and their earnest endeavour to conform their temper and conduct to- the example of Christ Poaching in game, and purchasing contraband spirits from the Grampian smugglers, long prevailed to a considerable extent in the parish ; but, through the vigilance and severity of the excise, they * A few years ago died a native of this parish named Boath, at the age of OS. Though not of great stature, he possessed extraordinary strength, and swiftness in running. He was at the same time of eccentric character. Instances of longevity are frequent in the parish. One man is going 93 years of age ; a husband and wire 87 each ; two gentlemen 80 each. 220 FORFARSHIRE. have several years ago been completely suppressed, and are now unknown. IV, — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of acres, standard imperial meaiure, in the parish, which are regularly cultivated, --..-. 2848 Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly waste, -----__ 106 The number of acres that might, with a profitable application of capital, be added to the cultivated land of the parish, - - - - 106 The number of acres under planted wood in the parish, - - - 124 The kinds of trees generally planted are, Scots fir, silver fir, spruce, larch, oak, ash, elm, plane, beech, lime, birch, gean, hornbeam, poplar, chestnut, aspen, laburnum, hazel, willow. Their ma- nagement in general cannot be said to be the best, their thinning and pruning being but occasionally, partially, and imperfectly performed. Rental. — The valued rent of the parish in Scotch money is L. 1865, 3s. 4d. The gross rent of the parish, arising from arable land, L. 4162, 19s. Sterling; from village-houses and gardens, L. 138, 15s.; from cottar-houses and gardens, L. 51, 10s.; total, L. 4353, 4s. Rent ofLafuL — The average rent of arable land per acre in the parish, L. 1, 9s. 2f d. ; the average rent of grazing per acre, at the rate of 40s. per ox or cow grazed for the season, L. 2 ; at the rate of 10s. per ewe or full-grown sheep pastured for the year, L. 2. Husbandry. — The following may be considered as the rotations generally adopted throughout the parish. First rotation. 1. oals after grass; 2. green crop, with manure ; 3. barley, with grass-seeds ; 4. grass cut or pastured; 5. grass pastured. Second rotation. 1. oats after grass ; 2. oats a second time ; 3. green-crop, with ma- nure ; 4. barley ; 5. naked fallow : 6. wheat, with manure and gnass-seeds ; 7. grass, cut for hay ; 8. grass pastured. Third ro- tation. 1. barley after grass ; 2. turnips (with bone-dust) the one- Jialf being drawn, and the other half consumed with sheep ; 3. bar- ley, with grass-seeds ; 4. grtiss, cut or pastured ; 5. grass pastured. The following is a tabular view of the average extent annually sown, and of the average produce annually reaped, in the parish : Number of Average produce Aggregate produce Si>ccies of grain sowed. acres under in stand, imp. in standard impe- crop. measure per acre. rial quarters. 448 Quarters 1648 4 2552 2ft 24 47(X) Wheat, Barley, Oats, Rye, Pease, 112 412 638 7 6 1175 acres KINNETTLES. 221 Acres under turiiii)s, 280 ; under potatoes, 101 ; under sown- grass, 1178; under meadow-grass, 106; under fallow, 108. Implements of Husbandry^ §'c. — In the parish there are, gene- rally, carts, 35; ploughs, 35; harrows, 105; drill-harrows, 18; turnip-machines, 15; rollers, 18; fanners, 19; thrashing-mills, 8; meal-mills, 2 ; barley-mills, 1 ; spinning-mills, 1 ; yarn-mills, 2 ; chaises, 2; gigs, 3; cars, 1. Permanent Live-Stock, — Work-horses, 70 ; riding-horses, 16 ; fillies, 11; asses, 2; milch-cows, 104; cattle, 422; calves, 86; sheep, 320; swine, 64. Prices. — The average seUing prices of the different kinds of grain grown in the parish are as follows : wheat, 54s. ; barley, 27s. ; oats, 22s.; rye, 21s.; pease, 21s. per imperial quarter. The average price of different articles of parochial produce and manufacture required for the different purposes of niral and do- mestic economy : Oat-meal, per imperial stone. Is. 7d. ; bafley-meal, per ditto. Is. 4d. ; barley-flour, per ditto, Is. 7d. ; pot-barley, per ditto, 3s. 4d. ; cheese, per ditto, 6s. 6d. ; potatoes, per ditto, 3d. ; milk, per imperial quart, 2d.; butter, per imperial lb., 7d. ; honey, ditto, Is. ; eggs, per dozen, 6d. ; hens, per each. Is. 2d. ; chickens, ditto, 4d. This parish affords but little scope for the husbandry of sheep. About 320, however, are generally kept throughout the year by gentlemen and farmers, who keep them partly for do- mestic purposes, but chiefly for enriching their fields. The kinds kept are various. The proprietors of the parish usually keep in their lawns a small mixed flock of the Linton, South Down, and Merino breeds, which in summer are subsisted on grass, and in winter, partly on grass, and partly on turnips, hay, and straw ; and, from the excellent shelter afforded them, they thrive uncommonly well, and are generally very productive. Some« of the farmers keeping sheep, particularly in winter, more for the market than for family use, generally keep the Linton, Che- viot^ and Leicester breeds. In summer, such as keep them, graze them in their enclosures ; and in winter, when the great- est stock is kept, after drawing the one-half of their turnips in alternate drills, or in alternate doublets, they employ their sheep in consuming the other half, which they usually do, enclosed in nets or hurdles, provincially called flakes, constructed for the pur- pose, and which easily shift from one place to another. Along ■«« 222 FORFARSHIRE. with the turnips, they receive daily a quantity of hay or straw, which they eat from covered hecks. And if the winter prove dry and favourable, they are generally fed off, and found in excellent condition for the butcher by the month of April, when they bring from L. 1 to L. 1, 8s. per head. The complement being thus re- duced by the sale of the fat sheep, is made up partly by the re- maining ewes and lambs, and partly by purchases at the sheep- markets. The rearing, grazing, and feeding of cattle are favourite objects with our farmers, because they are profitable in regard to manure, as well as to money. But not rearing a number sufficient for consuming their grass and turnips, they supply the deficiency by purchases made at the several fairs, from the famed cattle-rear- ing counties of Mearns, Aberdeen, and Moray. If not sold at the end of the grazing season, they are fed off on turnips and straw during winter, and bring very high prices in the Edinburgh or Glasgow markets. As great attention is thus paid to rearing, graz- ing, and feeding, the parish contains a large and valuable stock of cattle. Besides a permanent and flying stock of cattle, the far- mers generally keep a considerable stock of cows, partly of the Angus, and partly of the Ayrshire breeds, for yielding milk for rearing calves, and for dairy purposes : And it is reckoned a very good cow that yields four or five imperial gallons of milk per day during the best of the season. DraminffjSfc. — About thirty years ago, there was a considerable extent of waste land in the parish ; but, by means of draining within these twenty-five years, it has been, with the exception of about 106 imperial acres of flat marshy ground along the northern extremity of the parish, subjected to the plough, and converted into corn land. And now that the trustees of the late Earl of Strathmore have wid- ened and deepened the great drain which extends from the loch of Forfar to the back of the Castle of Glammis, the whole waste land alluded to will be easily drained and reclaimed, and twenty acres of it will be under corn crop this season. In the course of two years, the whole superficial area of the parish, the rocky brow of the hill of Kinnettles only excepted, will be in an arable state. Seve- ral years ago, paring and burning were the two great expedients employed here in reclaiming waste land ; but, having been found, on experience, to reduce and deteriorate the most productive part of the soil, these have been laid aside for ten years in the improvement of waste land. The plan now generally adopted in reclaiming land of this description is, to plough it very deep, «3 KINNETTLES. 223 to let it lie in the ploughed state till the swardy furrows have rot- ted, next to cross plough it, and then to finish the process by break- ing and pulverizing it by the action of the harrow. — Irrigation, which in many cases meliorates the soil, is not attempted in the parish, because there is not a sufficiency of water convenient for the purpose, and because, though there were a sufficiency, the wa- t^r, owing to the intersected state of the fields by covered drains, would not extend, as was found by experiment in 1826, but sink down into the first intersection. — The only specimens of embank- ing in the parish are those raised on the banks of the Kerbit, to protect the adjacent flat fields from the violence of its destructive inundations ; and they have the desired effect In former times, when the land in the parish was far behind in cultivation, and when it required a considerable outlay on the part of the occupant to bring it into a proper productive state, the pro- prietors were accustomed to grant long leases, generally thirty-nine years, with the lifetime of the occupant after the years specified in his lease had expired. But as soon as the cultivation of their pro- perties had attained to a considerable degree of perfection, they, from a desire of regulating the progressive rise of rent by the progres- sive improvement of the times, abandoned this system of leases, first, by lopping off* the lifetime period after the stipulated number of years, and then by abridging the length of the lease to twenty-one years. , At the last general letting in the parish, the period was re- duced to nineteen years, which is now the duration of almost every lease in the parish, there being no liferenter in it since 1831. The complaint brought by many farmers in other districts of the county, against the backwardness of their landlords in affording them the necessary accommodations in respect of dwelling-houses and steadings, cannot with propriety be brought against the pro* prietors of this parish. On all their farms, exceeding ten imperial acres, commodious and substantial dwelling-houses and steadings have been erected. But although all the farm-steadings may be thus reported to be in a good state of repair, the same favourable report cannot be made of the farm-enclosures. The great bulk of the parish, indeed, is well enclosed with substantial stone-dikes ; but there are about 400 imperial acres on which there is hardly the shadow of an enclosure. Quarries. — The various kinds of quarries discovered and opened in the parish are of whinstone, sandstone, and greywacke flag, and slate. The whinstone, which appears under three varieties, is work- FORFAR. p L.6296 4 2036 242 10 i 2228 12 60 14 140 10 66 6 3 8 224 FORFARSHIRE. ed by the road trustees, for the purpose of furnishing metal for the turnpike and parish roads. The sandstone quarries are occasion- ally worked by the gentlemen to whom they belong, not for public sale, but for their own private architectural uses. And the grey- wacke flag and slate quarry is worked only by its proprietor for his own accommodation. Produce, — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is exhibited under the following heads : Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man, or the domestic animals, - - - <• - Of potatoes and turnips, cultivated in the fields for food, Of hay, both cultivated and meadow, - - - Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 2 per cow, or full-grown ox, grazed for the season, or rating it at lOs. per ewe, or full-grown sheep, pas- tured for the year, .... Of gardens, - - - - Of the annual thinning and periodical felling of plantations. Of wool, - - - . - Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 1 1,070 11 o Manufactures. — The great manufactorj' in the parish is the spinning-mill of Douglastown, erected in 1792, and consisting of twelve horse-power, driven partly by water, and partly by steam, — the steam-engine being seven horse-power. It gives steady employment to 10 flax-dressers, 12 preparers, 16 spinners, 7 reelers, 2 turners, 1 steam-engineman, and 1 clerk, who superintends the whole establishment ; and, consisting of 14 frames, of t30 spindles each, it throws off" 234 spindles per day, and 1404 per week. The yarn is all manufactured into cloth, and exported by the tenant to fo- reign markets. The other branches of manufacture in the parish, with the number of hands employed in each, are as follows: — The number of hands employed in weaving osnaburgs, 5 males and 18 females ; hessians, 2 males and 1 female ; bleached sheet- ings, 5 males ; brown sheetings, 2 males ; in mill-spinning of yarn, 26 males and 23 females ; in washing yarn at 2 yarn-mills, 5 males and 2 females. In weaving these fabrics, men and women usually work five days per week, and fifteen hours per day. In conducting the spinning of yarn at the spinning-mill of Douglastown, the men, wom^n, and children, by whom that branch of manufacture is conducted, usual- ly work six days per week, and, now that the Factory Bill is in operation, twelve hours per day, except Saturday, when they cease working at three o'clock in the afternoon. Whether these manufactures afford a fair remuneration and KINNETTLES. 225 support to those engaged in them, may be ascertained from the following statement : — The average rate of weaving a web of osna- burgs, 150 yards long, 8s.; of hessians, 124 yards long, 8s.; of bleached sheetings, 110 yards long, 14s.; of brown sheetings, 104 yards long^ 1 Is, Thus it appears, that, when provisions are mode- rate in price, the manufacturer, by receiving 2s. 9^d. per day for his highest manufacture, (which he weaves in five days,) and Is. 7d. for the lowest, is comparatively pretty well remunerated for his labour ; and, since the males employed in the said spinning-mill receive each on an average 2s. 3d. per day, and the females 4s. 6d. per week, they are enabled to live in a tolerably comfortable state. Mill-spinning and weaving, from the long daily confinement at- tending them, the imperfect ventilation of manufacturing houses, and noxious flaxen dust inhaled into the lungs in respiration, — seldom fail to produce bad effects on the constitution ; disposing those that are exposed to them to assume prematurely the pale emaciated countenance, and to contract asthmatical and dropsical diseases, which not unfrequently adhere to them through life. Spinning-mills and manufacturing shops, in which many young of both sexes are frequently blended together, have, at the same time, not always the best effect on the morals of youth. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Town. — The nearest market-town is Glammis, where three cattle and sheep-markets are periodically held in the course of the year. At Forfar, the county-town, distant about three miles, seven or eight markets are periodicaHy held during the year, for cattle, horses, and sheep. Besides, a cattle-market, commonly called the crafts^ is held on every Wednesday from Martinmas to the mid- dle of April ; and a weekly market every Saturday for butter, cheese, eggs, and poultry. Villages. — There are two villages in the parish. Douglastown, so called from the late Mr Douglas of Brigton, was erected by that gentleman and his partners, at a great expense, in 1792, chiefly for the accommodation of the hands employed at the spinning-mill. It, however, contains a vintner, a blacksmith, a shoemaker, two tailors, a cloth and grocery merchant, various mechanics, and a population of 162 persons. — The other village is the Kirktown, a small but handsome village, built in 1813, and containing, in a population of 52 persons, the parish schoolmaster, a female teacher of sewing and fancy-work, a carpenter, a grocery merchant, and various mechanics. 226 FORFARSHIRE. Means of Communicatioru — The means of communication en- joyed by the parish are various. 1. Although it has no post-office, yet letters, newspapers, and parcels are regularly brought to and car- ried from the inn at Douglastown by the post, which runs daily be- twixt Forfar and Glanmiis* 2. The Strathmore turnpike-road passes, upwards of two miles, nearly through the centre of the parish ; and the turnpike-road betwixt Dundee and Forfar passes, nearly a mile, through the eastern parts of the parish. 3. The Defiance coach, which runs between Edinburgh and Aberdeen, travels every lawful day on the Strathmore turnpike-road, and also the Glasgow carrier once a-week ; and on the turnpike-road betwixt Dundee and Forfar, travel, every lawful day, the Union and Sir Henry Parnell coaches, betwixt Edinburgh and Aberdeen, via Fife ; be- sides other public carriages betwixt Dundee and Forfar on stated days of the week. 4. There are, in different parts of the parish, five arched and parapeted bridges, built with stone and lime, and one chain-bridge across the Kerbit at the Kirktown. The hand- some stone bridge across the Kerbit at Douglastown, and consist- ing of three arches, was erected in 1770: two of one arch each, and two consisting of two arches each, across the Spittle-bum, were built neatly and substantially towards the end of the last century. These bridges are in good condition. — The fences, partly thorn- hedges, but chiefly dry-stone dikes, are generally in good con- dition. Ecclesiastical State. — Owing to the hill of Brigton and Kinnettles rising nearly in the centre of the parish, it was judged by our fore- fathers to be inexpedient to build the parish church in a centrical place; but, although it stands at the south-west side of the hill, and consequently near to the western extremity of the parish, it is not inconvenient for any part of the population, being nearly centrical between the northern and southern extremities of the parish, and not exceeding two miles from the remotest comer, while that dis- tance is considerably diminished by means of a kirk-road along the top of the hill. The church was built in 1812, solely at the expense of the heri- tors, the parishioners contributing not so much as a single carriage towards its erection. From its having been so recently built, and that, too, in a neat, commodious, and substantial style, it is at pre- sent in a state of tolerably good repair. The church, galleried upon the principles of modern architec- ture, affords accommodation for 420 sitters. The free sittings are, KINNETTLES. 227 the front seat of all the galleries, accommodating thirty-six sitters, and reserved by the heritors for themselves and their families ; one seat, on the ground floor, for the minister's family, accommodating six sitters ; and one seat, also on the ground floor, for the elders, accommodating six sitters. All the other seats are let annually at 2s. per sitter. The communion-table, which is neat and commo- dious, extends, with the exception of the east and west passages, the whole length of the church, and accommodates fifty communi- cants at each service. The manse was built in 1801 ; repaired in 1807 and 1811 ; and, owing to its small size and superficial workmanship, cannot be said to be in a good state of repair at present But, from the disposi- tion of the heritors to grant comfortable accommodation, hopes are entertained of its being enlarged and repaired in the course of the season. The glebe contains 8^ imperial acres, and is now all arable. Its annual value is not easily ascertained. Consisting of various kinds of soil, and containing two acres of poor gravel, it cannot be esti- mated at more th:in L. 12, 15s. per annum, which is at the rate of L. 1, 10s. per acre. Hence the glebe, though an accommoda- tion, is by no means a profit to the incumbent As the teinds of the parish were at different periods all valued in money at a very low rate, they fell short of the minimum stipend by L. 30, Is. yearly ; but the deficiency is made up by the Govern- ment bounty. The number of families attending the Established church is 102; the number of persons of all ages attending the Established church, 530 ; the number attending the chapels of Dissenters and Sece- ders, 2; of Episcopalians, 16. Divine service at the Established church is generally well attended. The average number of com- municants at the Established church, 240. The average amount of church collections yearly, for religious and charitable objects, L. 22, 7s. 3d. Education, — There are two schools in the parish, the parochial and a sewing school. The branches of instruction taught in the parochial school are, English reading, writing, arithmetic, book- keeping, the elements of algebra and mathematics, English grammar, geography, Latin, and French. The branches taught in the female school are, English readings and several varieties of needle and fancy work. The salary of the schoolmaster is 228 FORFARSHIRE. L. 34, 4s. 4|d. As the school is always well attended, the school- fees amount, on an average, to L. 50 a-year, which, with the salary and perquisites, realize an income of about L. 84, 4s. 4^d. per an- num, and, of course, aflFord a pretty fair remuneration for the ar- duous labour of teaching a parochial school. The income of the schoolmistress, however, is disproportionate. She has, indeed, a free house and garden, but no salary. With the exception of her house and garden, which she holds by grant from the benevolent family of Kinnettles, she is left entirely to depend on her preca- rious school-fees. But, by her attention and accomplishments, she has hitherto been enabled to earn a tolerably comfortable live- lihood. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations. He has a well-finished two-story dwelling-house, an excellent school-room, and two bolls of oatmeal in lieu of a garden. The four rates of school-fees, fixed about thirty years ago by the competent judges, are, per quarter, 2s. 6d. for beginners ; 3s. for reading and writing ; 4s. for arithmetic ; and 5s. for the learned languages ; but, as teachers in general have the practice of mul- tiplying books in the hands of their scholars, the quarter fees sel- dom amount to much more than one-half of the total expense of education per quarter. All young persons in the parish betwixt six and fifteen years of age can read, and nearly all write also ; and the number of per- sons in the parish, upwards of fifteen years of age, who can neither read nor write, is only 1. The people, in general, are alive to the benefits of education ; and parents, in particular, make great ex- ertions to have their children well educated. The total number of scholars at school in the parish is 1 12. Poor and Parochial Funds, — Public begging is unknown in the parish. Its paupers are all supported by the parish funds; and the average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 6. The average sum allotted to the first is 3s. per month ; to the second, 3s. 6d. ; to the third, 4s.; to the fourth, 5s.; to the fifth, 10s. ; to the sixth, L. 1, Is. 8fl. The whole monthly expenditure, L. 2, 7s. 2d. ; yearly, L. 28j 6s. The contributions to the parochial funds arise from various sources ; as follows: The annual average amount of church collections, L. 22, 7s. 3d.; mortcloth dues, L. 1, 7s. lO^d. ; civil penalties, L. 1, 5s. S^d. ; marriage proclamations, 6s. 2d. ; — amount of annual income, L. 25, 6s. 1 1 Jd. But, as the expenditure KINNETTLES. 229 exceeds the income, the deficiency is made up, sometimes by draw- ing on a small fund created in better times, and sometimes by oc- casional extraordinary collections at the church. Besides, the late Mr James Maxwell, mill-wright, who was bom, and lived in the parish till within a few years of his death, bequeathed, in a most charitable and exemplary manner, about four years ago, L. 50, subject to the legacy-duty, to be distributed, within a specific pe- riod, in coals, among the poor of the parish ; and from this bequest, the poor have derived, and will continue for several years to de- rive, much comfort and relief during the inclemency of winter. By a judicious application of these resources, the managers of the poor have as yet been enabled to go on without allowing any parochial begging, and without calling in the aid of an assessment. In former times, the Scottish spirit, generally, could not brook the idea of seeking parochial relief; but this spirit of independ- ence has now been greatly and generally abated. Inns and Alehouses, — Prior to Martinmas 1833, there was one inn and one alehouse in the parish, both situated on the Strathmore turnpike-road ; but the alehouse has since been abolished. Fuel, — For ages, peat and wood, whin and broom, constituted the fuel of the parish ; but now, that the neighbouring peat-mosses are nearly exhausted, and whins and broom nearly exterminated, the ordinary fuel is wood and coal in summer, and coal, with a small proportion of wood, in winter. Both English and Scotch coals are used; but the English chiefly. These coals are pro- cured at Dundee, twelve miles distant; the English at from 4s. to 6s. per 6 cwt or 1 boll of 42 imperial stones ; and the Scotch at from 4s. 8d. to 6s. 8d. per 6 cwt or 1 boll of 42 imperial stones. The ordinary price of driving 6 cwt. or 1 boll of coals from Dundee to the parish is 3s. Hence the necessity of a ca- nal, or efficient railway, from some of the sea-port towns into the interior of the country. Miscellaneous Observations. In 1792, the best arable land in the parish was rented at L. 1, 5s. per Scottish acre; but now it is rented at L. 2, 1 Is. 5d. — a fact which shows that the value of land is still more than double of what it was at the publication of the last Statistical Account. In 1792, a male-servant's yearly wages, including L. 8 in money, and L. 6, lis. 5d. the estimated value of maintenance was L. 14, 1 Is. 5d.; but now, including L. 10, 15s. in money, and L. 9, 15s. lOd., the esti- 230 FORFARSHIRE. mated value of maintenance, it is L.20, 10s. lOd. In 1792, a fe- male-servant's yearly wage, including L. 3 in money, and L. 4, 6s« 8d. the estimated value of maintenance, was L. 7, -Gs. 8d. ; now it is, including L. 5, 15s. in money, and L.6, 8s. 2^d. the estimat- ed value of maintenance, L. 12, Ss. 2^d. In 1792, the wages of a day-labourer per day, without victuals, were Is. Id. ; of a car- penter. Is. 4d. and of a mason. Is. 6d. ; now the wages of a day- labourer, without victuals, are Is. lOd. ; of a carpenter, 2s. ; and of- a mason 2s. 6d. Comparing the fiars prices of grain, as struck at Forfar for crop 1833, with the prices of grain in 1792, it is found that wheat, barley, and oats, are a^ low-priced at present as they were forty years ago. The general aspect of the parish, as well artificial as natural, has unquestionably been much improved within the last forty years. Many parts of it which were then wet have been drained ; many wastes reclaimed, and at least 300 acres brought from a state of nature into a state of cultivation, while about 20 acres have been added to the plantations. Farming, in all its branches, is conducted upon the most approved principles, by a body of men who are gene- rally enlightened practical farmers. Formerly, the rotations of cropping prescribed to the tenants were often found to be disad- vantageous ; but now the farmers enjoy a more liberal system of cropping, and are tied down by no rotations that are hurtful either to themselves or their farms. Formerly, flax, pease, and beans, were cultivated to great extent, but the first being found to be a scourging crop, and the two last to encourage foulness, have been almost completely laid aside. By adopting the system of alternate husbandry in corn crop, green crop, and grass, and by applying lime and marl, with a proportionate quantity of dung, the farmers have generally put the arable land in excellent con- dition. Hence there is not only a greater extent put under corn crop, green crop, and artificial grasses, but the same extent yields a produce very much superior, both in quantity and quality, to the produce of former times. Indeed, it may with safety be said that the produce of grain and green-crop is about double of what it was in 1792. Since that period, the progress of agriculture has been rapid. This rapidity has in no small degree been promoted by the introduction of some valuable machines, and by the adop- tion of new modes of growing and consuming turnips. Besides, the arrangement of the former enclosures has been greatly alter- KINNETTLES. 231 ed ; many new fences have been erected, and the whole system of enclosing, so far as it goes, has been very much improved. Within these twenty years, the cottages and village-houses, many of which have a but and a ben^ have in general been made comfortable to their inhabitants, and let at rents ranging from L. I, 5s. to L.2, IDs. per house and garden. Within the same period the farm-houses, with the offices thiereto attached, have been generally put in excellent order, and are found to afford ample and commodious accommodation. Forty years ago, personal services were exacted and performed in the parish. Occupiers of a house and garden, or of a house and^ garden with one or two acres of land, performed some days work occasionally, as the proprietor might happen to require them in the course of the year. Such tenants as possessed ground sufficient to enable them to keep a horse, besides the above services, were bound to perform two horseback carriages in the course of the year, as far as Dundee, which is distant about twelve miles, or to a similar distance. Greater tenants were bound to convey a certain number of bolls of coals from Dundee to the proprietors' houses, which re- quired two or three days' work of their men, horses, and carts. They were likewise bound to give a day's work of all their reapers, commonly called a bonage^ for cutting down the proprietor's corns. Besides, they were bound to give annually so many spindles of yam, so many poultry, called kain^ and were restricted to particular meal- mills, where they were obliged to pay heavy multures, and to per- form mill services. From these rigorous remains of feudal slavery, the inhabitants of the parish are now happily set at liberty. — About twenty years ago, females were chiefly employed in working the spinning-wheel: but this useful and congenial employment has now been completely stopped. On the introduction, however, of the spinning-mill, which banished from the parish at least 250 spinning-wheels, females betook themselves, some to the easier parts of agriculture, some to the yarn-mill, some to the spinning- mill, some to sewing and knitting, and some, especially the aged, to the filling of pirns, and not a few to the loom : and now they are better fed and better clothed than they were in the days of the spinning-wheel. Improvements recommended. — It would certainly be a great im- provement to plough every field, as it comes periodically into a state of fallow or green crop, with a trench-plough, which, by pe- netrating the subsoil, would bring up a fresh mould that would 232 FORFARSHIRE. strengthen the soil, and render it more absorbent of rain, and more impervious to drought Since the large drain between the Castle of Glammis and the Loch of Forfar, which was opened about sixty years ago, and which extends about 2 miles in length, has been re- cently deepened and widened, about 106 acres of meadow and mossy land, running parallel with the northern boundary of the parish, will be easily brought into a state of tillage, — 20 acres of which have been drained and put under corn-crop this season. This will make a valuable acquisition to the arable land. Much still remains to be done also in the way of enclosing, and in thinning and prun- ing of plantations. — Although turnips and potatoes, of excellent quality, and in great abundance, are grown in the parish, yet there seems to be here, as well as in the county at large, a great deside- ratum in the mode of preserving them in good condition. On an ave- rage, one-tenth of the turnips may be said to be annually destroy- ed by frost ; and potatoes, which, as an article of food, are so use- ful to the inhabitants of the island, become unpleasant and rather unwholesome food by the middle of the month of April. * Obstacles to Improvement, — One of the great obstacles to the im- provement of the husbandry and manufactures of the parish is its distance from a sea-port, Dundee being 12 miles distant This distance, over a succession of hills and dales, occasions long and expensive carriages, accompanied with a great deal of tear and * To thesti two great evils the following simple remedies might be a})p1ie(i with success. Those turnip fields which are designed for consumption by sheep should be consumed before the severity of winter sets in ; and a great proportion of those that are designed to stand over the winter, for the benefit of young stock, milch-cows, and the feeding-byre, should be pulled in the beginning of winter, carted home, di- vested of their stems, piled up in a heap, and carefully thatched and roped. By tliese means they would be secured from the effects of frost, and preserved in good con- dition till the commencement of grazing — With a view to prolong the season of potatoes, the following scheme is humbly proposed. Every potatoc-grower should select a dry rising ground, in which he should dig a pit 6 or 8 feet deep, 6 feet wide, and proportioned m length to the qiuintity to be stored ; should face up the sides and ends with stone from top to bottom : should deposit the potatoes in it, cover it over with thin stone flags, and then lay over it a quantity of earth to the depth of four feet, for the purpose of excluding all air and rain from themj and, of course, for preventing their vegetation. In order that the owner of the depository niny have a fresh supply of potatoes weekly, or at pleasure, a small stone-built and eartiicn- covered passage should be constructed at one of the ends of the depository, (the lower end being preferable,) and closely built up with turf at the outer end, for the purpose of excluding air from the depository. If a dry bank cannot 1>e found for the construc- tion of such a depository, an artificial mound of earth should be raised, and a depo- sitory constructed in it as above described. In whichsoever of these ways the depo- sitory may be constructed, it behoves to be made perfectly dry by means of an under drain. Such a depository may be somewhat expensive in the construction ; but, when once constructed, it would serve the purpose in all time coming. By means of this simple scheme, potatoes might be preserved from sprouting, and the season of their freshness prolonged till they ushered in the new potatoes. KINNETTLES. 233 wear. With the exception of some parcels of oats sold to the home millers, the whole disposable grain of the parish is driven, partly to Arbroath, but chiefly to Dundee, whence all the coal, lime, foreign wood, salt, iron, flax, seeds, and groceries, which the parish requires, are transported with carts. These grievances would have been completely redressed, had the canal between Ar- broath and Forfar, projected, surveyed, and estimated by the town- councils of these boroughs in 1817, been carried into execution. But this practicable and useful scheme of inland navigation was completely overruled, at a county-meeting, by a number of gen- tlemen who, with a view to promote the trade of Dundee, proposed the plan of the railway between Dundee and Newtyle, which is now open and in full operation. But, in consequence of its being opened towards the western extremity of the county, it is of no benefit what- ever to this parish. Of this defect the trustees on that road are aware ; and, with a view to supply it, are proposing to extend the railway through Strathmore to Glammis. But although this proposal were executed, the railway would still be of little benefit to the parish, because its circuitousness would render the road very long, and, consequently, would increase the rate of carriage so much, that there would be little difference between driving to and from Dundee with carts and the railway waggons. If, on the contrary, the canal above-mentioned, or a railway between Arbroath and Forfar, had been executed, they would, on account of their easy extension to Cupar- Angus, have afforded increased facilities of tra- velling, and have brought many commercial advantages to all the neighbouring districts. January 1835. PARISH OF INVERARTTY.i PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. GEORGE LOUDON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — Under this name are comprehended the contiguous and united parishes of Inverarity and Meathie. Like most pa- rishes in Scotland, where the Celtic language formerly prevailed, it seems to owe its name to its particular locality. The situa- tion of the church generally suggested its own appellation, and that of the whole parish to which it belonged : and it appears to have done so in the present case. For till 1754, when it was built on its pre- sent site, the church of Inverarity had, for a considerable period at least, been situated near the present house of Fothringham; at a small distance from which, the river Arity, running from east to west, is joined almost at right angles by the Corbie Burn. The name of this parish, therefore, refers to that spot where the Arity and Corbie Burn form one river. ExteiU and Boundaries. — The parish is about 3 miles square. It is bounded on the north by the parish of Forfar ; on the south by the parishes of Monikie and Murroes ; on the east by those of Guthrie and Dunnichen ; and on the west by Kinneftles, Tealing, and Glammis. Its figure approaches that of a circle, the circum- ference of which forms, in general, an elevated boundary, from which the radii descending, may be conceived to meet at the centre, occupied by the church. Topographical Appearances. — Although consisting principally of a valley or little strath, yet none of its crowning eminences can claim the name of mountains. But, " si parva componere mjignis liceat," from whatever point the traveller approaches this valley, he may be conceived to experience, in some degree, sensations re- sembling his who, having crossed the rugged Alps, finds himself at length descending to the tranquil plains of Italy, watered by the Po, and sheltered by the Apennines ; for, on almost every side are INVERARITY. 235 wooded hills, such as Fothringham, Kincaldrum, Lawrence, and Carrot, — ascending gently from the valley, and terminating the landscape as it receded to the horizon. From its natural position, this parish contains no small portion of low flat land, admitting of the best divisions for agricultural convenience and ornamental land- scape. Climate, §*c. — The atmosphere, from the neighbourhood of the parish to the coast, and its comparatively low situation, is in spring and autumn often foggy ; but during the other seasons is mild and dry. The east wind, blowing almost directly from the sea, pre- vails in the early part of the year, and, towards evening, fre- quently during summer. Freestone and gray-slate quarries abound here, and are con- verted to the most useful purposes. The soil is various, — prin- cipally clay, — in many parts alluvial, and rests upon beds of freestone or slate ; and in the more elevated districts, a dark loam, on sand- coloured freestone. Roe-deer abound in the parish, and find a ready shelter in the numerous young plantations. The birds mentioned in the former Account, such as dotterel, rails, wood and black-cock, still visit, and abound in, the parish. The small squirrel, not noticed in the former Account, is found on Fothringham hill. Botany, — There are many plants here, though not of a kind peculiar to the place. On Fothringham hill, Trienialis Europcea, Oxalis acetoseHaj Vaccinium Vitis Idea* In other parts of the parish. Erica tetralix, Veronica beccabunga. Ranunculus, Meny^ anthes trifoliata, Pamassia palustris, &c There has been a very great increase of plantations since the last account of the parish was written^ The property of Fothringham is ornamented with extensive and varied plantations, consisting of oak, beech, plane, spruce, ash, larch, and Scots fir. Near the house of Fothring- ham are several beech trees of very large size; and the approach to it from the south, through a winding den, presents clumps of spruce trees of distinguished beauty. On the other properties, the greatest attention has been paid to the improvement of waste land, and to the ornamenting of enclosures and fields, by plantations, and with handsome trees. In this respect, Colonel Lawrenson, of Inverighty, has earned a just claim to distinction in this district for his judicious and successful disposal of such trees, of consider- able size, as are both suited to the soil, and an ornament to the neighbourhood. The soil, indeed, seems well fitted for trees in 236 FORFARSHIRE. general ; and the thriving plantations, which, at the publication of the former Account, had not commenced their growth, prove that every encouragement is held out to continued perseverance in such improvements. II. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Among those who have reflected honour on this, the place of their birth, we may mention James Webster, Esq. Student of the Inner Temple, fifth son of the Rev. John Webster, minister of this parish. After discovering great acute- ness and ardour, and securing the highest opinion of his instructors, in the prosecution of his academical studies in Scotland, this yoiing gentleman, with a view to practise at the English Bar, be- took himself to his studies at the Inner Temple. The pious im- pressions of his earliest life afterwards prompted him to pay a visit to the countries of the east. With this object he travelled to the continent ; visited Egypt, and parts of Turkey ; and, with increasing ardour, at last, set off for Mount Sinai, and ascended its memorable heights. The effect of this fatiguing expedition, however, on his return to Cairo, was a fever, which, in a few days, cut him off. * Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are. Colonel Fothring- ham, Robert S. Graham, Esq., and Captain Lawrenson. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers, consisting of four volumes, regularly kept, commence in the year 1710. Antiquities. — As mentioned in the former Account, there is a Roman camp, called " Haer Faads," in one extremity of the pa- rish, or rather partly in the parish of Guthrie, on the property of Carbuddo. The outer ditch and rampart can still be traced, though the ground is now planted and covered with wood. It possesses the rectangular parallelogram of the Roman camps. Several tu- muli are met with on the ridges of the hills, containing, when ex- amined, stone coffins and charred bones, as in other parts of Scot- land. III. — Population. The ancient population was greater than the present ; being, about 100 years ago, 996. At that period, many cottars were at- tached to farms that do not now require them. The improved state of agriculture, and the enlargement of farms, have rendered fewer * A Memoir of his life has been prefixed to an account of his Travels : and re- mains, as a faint delineation to his parent and friends, of the many valuable qualities, which his character and talents already possessed. 3 INVEUARITY. 237 hands necessary for the labours of the field, and led many families to betake themselves to towns. The whole population resides in the country. Under 15 years of age, the number of persons may be - - 560 Between 1*5 and 30, the number may be - - - 140 aO and 50, - - • - - 120 50 and 70, - - - - - 46 Upwards of 70, ... - - 20 The average annual births for the last 7 years may be stated at - - 20 deaths, - - - - - 10 marriages, . - - . 9 Thenumberof families in the parish is -" - 176 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 81 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 52 The only families of independent fortune residing in the parish are those of Fothringham and Kincaldrum. The number of pro- prietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 is 5. The number of bachelors and widowers upwards of fifty years of age is 1 1 ; and of unmarried women upwards of forty-five, 10. The average num- ber of children in each family may be stated at 3. The peo- ple are of an ordinary size, — few of them tall. There is one deaf and dumb boy, and one deaf and dumb girl. The boy has been well educated at the institution in Edinburgh ; the girl is a mere child. The inhabitants are a contented people ; disposed to re- vere the institutions of religion, and distinguished for their morals and good conduct. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of cultivated acres in the parish is about 4000. The number of acres of waste or uncultivated ground, consisting of plantations, moor, &c. may be stated at 2000. The number of acres under wood may be about 1000. The trees generally planted are, larch, spruce, plane, beech, Scots fir, and oak. There is much more attention paid to thinning, periodical felling, and judicious pruning, than formerly, there being sales of wood about twice a-year. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1. The average grazing for an ox or cow is L. 2. Husbandry. — The common breed of cattle is what is denomi- nated the Angus, or black-cattle of the county, which, from the Associations for the improvement of stock in this country, is rapidly improving. The husbandry is that pursued in the most agricul- tural parts of the country. As the parish has been almost com- pletely drained, and the farms almost all subdivided, and enclosed by stone dikes or hedges, little is left for original improvement of waste ground. Nineteen years form the duration of leases. \ ..13500 1136 1505 1100 100 238 FORFARSHIRE. Produce. — The yearly raw produce of the parish may be esti^ mated as follows : Oats, barley, and wheat, 12,290 bolls. Potatoes, turnips, ... Hay, cultivated, - - - Pasture grassy ... Annual sales of wood, L. 17341 V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUTown. — The nearest market-town is Forfar, four miles distant. A turnpike-road from Forfar to Dundee passes through the parish, for four miles. Two public coaches travel on the road daily, one from Aberdeen to Edinburgh, the other from Brechin to Dundee. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is conveniently situated for the parishioners, being three miles from the extreme points of the parish. It was built in 1754, is in a good state of repair, and can accommodate 600 persons. The manse was built long ago, but has been enlarged and repaired at different periods. The last alterations and additions were made in 1831, soon after the admis- sion of the present incumbent. The glebe is upwards of twelve acres in extent, equal in quality to the average land of the parish. In 1813, the Court give a stipend of 14 chalders, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. All the families in the parish attend tlie Established church except six ; consisting of four Independents, five Seceders, and three Episcopa- lians. The Established church is well attended, and the people are much attached to our national establishment. The communicants amount to about 400. The amount of church collections for cha- ritable and religious purposes annually is about L. 6. Education, — There are two schools in the parish, the parochial and a private one, taught by a female. In both, English and writ- ing are taught ; in the parish school, Latin and the ordinary branches of education. Tlie salary of the parochial teacher is the maximum ; and the yearly amount of his school fees is about L. 27. The school fees vary from 2s. to lOs, 6d. per quarter. There are no persons, from six to fifteen years of age, who cannot read. The parents, in general, have a becoming sense of the value of education. Some parts of the parish are pretty far from the parish school, but there is a subscription school in the neighbourhood. The total number of scholars at schools in the parish is 80 ; but there are also about 30 attending schools on the borders of the parish. INVERKEILOR. 239 Poor and Parochial Fufids. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid is 15, at the rate of L. 3 a-year each. The amount of collections for their relief, being those in church only, is, on an average, L. 50. But the proprietors on whose ground they reside furnish many comforts to the poor, which lessen their claims on the poors fund of the parish. They do not generally apply to the fund of the parish till necessity compels them ; and, even then, they attach a degree of degradation to their allowance. Ahhotises — There are four alehouses in the parish, at present, which have no good effect on the morals of the people. January 1835. PARISH OF INVERKEILOR. PRESBYTERY OF ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ALEXANDER CARNEGIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — It appears from a charter describing the lands of Boy- sack, that the ancient name of this parish was Conghoillis. The name Inverkeilor describes the situation of the parish at the mouth of the Keilor^ — a rivulet which empties itself into the sea about a mile south from the village, at the southern termination of the bay of Lunan. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is of an oblong form, ex- tending from the sea westward about 7 miles. Its greatest breadth is from Gighty burn, its north boundary, to the bold rocky shore that bounds the land on the south, about 4^ miles. It gra- dually becomes narrower as it extends westward, and its medium bceadth may be about 2^ miles. Topograpkieal Appearances. — It is in general pretty level, ex- cept on the north side of the river Lunan, from which the ground rises, foranng a gently sloping bank of good arable land; and from the south side of the Keilor the ascent is gradual till it ter- minates in the high rocky coast, where there is a remarkable pro- montory, the Redhead, 45 fathoms in height. It is seen at a great distance from sea, and abounds with a variety of sea-fowls. The extent of coast in this parish, from the mouth of the Lunan round FORFAR. Q 240 FORFARSHIRE. to near the fishing village of Airthmithie, is from 5 to 6 miles. That part of it along the bay of Lunan (which affords a safe an- chorage for ships, except when the wind blows from any point of the east,) is fiat firm sand, over which the tide flows till it reaches a sandy bank overgrown with bent Frqm this point there is a beau- tiful extent of table land westward betwixt the Lunan and the Keilor, where the soil is of a free fertile quality; but on the other side of both the Lunan and the Keilor it is of a deep rich loam. The climate is good, and the soil, being of a fertile quality, has encour- aged the landlords and tenants to drain the land completely, so that the air is pure and salubrious ; and we have no very prevalent distemper. Hydrography. — The river Lunan has its source from a well near Forfar, called Lunan Well; it passes through a chain of lochs, viz. Restenet, Rescobie, and Balgaves, and is in its course fed by several burns. It then runs eastward through this parish with a clear current, and, after a variety of beautiful windings, falls into the sea at Redcastle in Lunan bay. On the north side of the Lunan there is no quarry of freestone ; only a hard bluish whinstone, very useful for road-making : but between the Lunan and Keilor, quar- ries of fine freestone fit for hewn work abound. Geology, — The prevailing rock in the parish is red sandstone, intermingled with trap and porphyry rocks. Of these there is a fine display at the Red Head. Agates are found in the trap rocks ; and the rocks of this district are used in building, and for road- making. Dr Fleming and Professor Jameson have described the geology of the Red Head. n. — Civil History. Land-^tcners. — The land-owners are the Earl of Northesk, Lord Panmure, Messrs F. L. Carnegie, Rait, Johnstone, and Skair. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers of this parish com- mence in the year 1739; since which period they have been regular- ly kept Antiquities. — At the mouth of the Lunan, upon an eminence that rises almost perpendicular on the side of the sea, and is steep all round, stands an old venerable ruin, named Redcastle, which tradition represents to have been a royal hunting seat ; and the names of some adjacent farms are supposed to give it coun- tenance. But if ever this was the case, it must have been at some very early period ; for Chalmers in his Caledonia, quotes a chartulary of Abroath, which ascribes the building of Redcastle INVEKKEILOR. 241 to Walter de Berkley, in the reign of William the Lion, who was therefore called the Lord of Redcastle. About a mile north-east from Ethie House, the seat of the Earl of Northesk and near the sea, stand the remains of a church with an enclosed burying-ground around it. It is called St Mur- doch's chapel. A considerable part of the walls is still standing. It is said to have been a parish church. Ethie House was built 'by Cardinal Beaton, and was his residence. At a place called Chapelton, nearly three miles west from the church, there are the remains of a chapelry of Quytefield, now the burying-ground of the family of Boysack. Modem Buildings. — There are five spinning mills in the parish driven by water, and partly by steam. They manufacture flax brought from the Baltic at a cheaper rate than it can be grown in this country. Their hours of working are regulated by the late act of Parliament III. — Population. In Dr Webster's report, the amount of the population is 1286 : but it has since increased, as agricultural improvements advanced ; for at the period of the former Statistical Account, the number was 1747, and in the year 1821 it was 1785. But the amount by the census of 1831 is only 1655, showing a decrease of 130. The accidental absence of a few families may account for the diminu- tion in part, but the principal cause appears to be the tendency in all agricultural populations to fall off*, in consequence of agricul- tural improvements. Besides, the old lint-mills on the Lunan, which formerly gave employment to numbers, are now very little employed. Nor does spinning with the hand or weaving af- ford sufficient encouragement to the many who are thrown upon that resource, to continue in the country, at a distance from the advantages they have in a town. Of late, too, it has become cus- tomary, as a precaution against pauperism, to take down every house not necessary for carrying on the operations of the farm. The village of Inverkeilor contains 30 families in separate houses. As far as can be judged from the register, the yearly average for the three preceding years is of births, 45, — of mortcloths, 34^ but there may be ten or twelve of these used at funerals from other parishes, — and of proclamations for marriage, 20; but when the parties belong to different parishes, proclamation is made in both. 242 FORFARSHIRE. The average number of persons under 15 years of age, - - 605 betwixt 15 and aO ... 442 80 and 50 - . 362 50 and 70 - - . 193 upwards of 70 - - - 53 The number of fomilies in the parish, - ... 375 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 130 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 114 IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — There are about 6000 Scotcli acres in cultivation, and about 100 acres in waste and pasture, very little fit for cultivation, but not unsuitable for planting. About 1 12 Scotch acres are under wood, of which about 12 are in hard-wood, such as plane, beech, oak, elm, and birch; and the remaining 100 acres are planted with Scotch fir and larch, to which the soil s^ems most congenial. Rent of Land. — The average rent of the arable land is rather above L. 1, 15s. per Scotch acre; but in some very old leases it is much lower. The average rent of grazing for the grass season is generally at the rate of L: 1, 10s. per ox or cow grazed, and at the rate of 5s. per ewe or full-grown sheep. Husbandry. — The cattle reared are the Angus breed, generally black, and without horns. Most of them are bought up for the English markets when three or four years old, where they are much approved of; others are fed either for home use, or to be driven to the Glasgow market. This being a fertile corn part of the country, a considerable number of the cattle are bought at markets from inland situations, instead of being reared in the parish. Some few enterprising individuals have of late introduced the Teeswater or short-horned breed of cattle, which come sooner to a much greater weight. The sheep are in general the black-faced breed from the Highlands, and the ewes are crossed with a Leicestershire tup, to make the lambs heavier. Black-faced wethers and some of the Che- viot kind are fed by being flaked in turnips through the winter. Husbandry is carried on in this parish in the most approved style. The mode of cropping in general is, that no two grain crops shall succeed each other, without a clean fallow or a drilled green crop intervening, with one, and in many cases of late with two, years grass, — before being taken up. The grain is in general among the best in the county, and brings the highest price in the market. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. The farm- steadings are generally very good, and many of the farms are en- closed with stone fences. Fishivy. — There is a small fishing village called Ethie-haven INVERKEILOR. 243 situated a little from the south end of Lunan bay, among the rocks. But it is now seldom that a boat can go out to fish, as the old men are afraid to venture, and the young men seek employment where there is greater encouragement. There is a salmon-fishing in the sands of Lunan bay by a stake-net ; and one has been lately com- menced in the sea belonging to the estate of Ethie by a suspension net, as the rocky shore will not admit of stakes. The rents of these are about L. 140. Produce. — Tlie yearly amount of wheat, barley, and oats, is about 18,000 bolls. The produce of potatoes, turnips, and all greeo crops cultivated for food is about L. 5,400 ; of hay and sown grass, (no meadow hay,) about L. 3,600 ; of land in pasture there may be about 2500 acres. The annual thinning of woods may bring about L. 100. Quarry. — There is at Leysmill, in this parish, a quarry for pavement, where it is dressed by machinery driven by a steam- engine. This work gives employment to about fifty men. It be- longs to Mr Carnegie of Boysack. V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUTown. — The nearest market-town is Arbroath. A post- office is situated near the church at Chance inn. Means of Communication, — The length of turnpike road in the parish is, of the road betwixt Arbroath and Montrose, by Chance inn, nearly two miles ; and of the road betwixt Arbroath and For- far, through the west end of the parish, two miles.. Besides the mail-coach, there are other two coaches passing and repassing every day by Chance inn; and carriers' carts every day. There ai*e five bridges in the parish over the Lunan in good condition. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the east end of the parish, and is not convenient for the western part of it. It was built 100 years ago, is in decent repair, and was lately enlarged by an aisle. It affords accommodation to about 700 ; but the people at the west end, being at a great distance, generally at- tend divine service at Kinnell, which lies nearer them. There are no free sittings. The manse was built in 1795, and received an addition a few years ago. The glebe is five acres in extent. The stipend 16 chalders, Linlithgow measure, of victual, payable at the Bars prices. No chapels of ease ; and no Seceding chapels : and there are but one family of Dissenters in the parish, and two of Episcopalians. Divine service at the Established church is well attended, and the 244 FORFARSHIRE. communicants are 670, besides about 45 who are admitted at Kin- nell. The average yearly amount of the collections at church for the poor for the last seven years is L. 50, 4s. 9d. Education, — There is one parochial school, the teacher of which has the maximum salary, and about L. 23 a-year of fees ; and an- other school, towards the west end of the parish, with a salary of from L. 5 to L. 7 from a deed of mortification, the teacher having a free school, and dwelling-house and garden. All the usual branches of instruction are taught at both. The people are so alive to the benefits of education, that hardly a child is to be met with that has not been at school. The total number of scholars at school in the parish is 142. Library. — There is a library, chiefly of a religious description, formed by voluntary subscriptions. Savings i?awA.—!- There is a Savings bank, which was instituted in 1820, for this parish and Lunan. On the Slst May last, to which day the annual accounts were brought up and settled, the managers found the sum deposited to be upwards of L. 500, but particular circumstances have occasioned a greater amount than usual to be withdrawn since. The investments have hitherto in general exceeded the sums withdrawn. The deposits are made by cottagers and tradesmen. Poor's Funds. — The average number of regular poor receiving parochial aid is 28; and the average sum to eacli per month is 5s. besides some coals in winter, — and several of them have their house rents paid. The occasional poor receive about L. 17 in the year. The chief source of relief arises from the collections at church, also from seat rents in the aisle, lately built, amounting yearly to L. 23; from legacies there are about L. 10 yearly; and from the mortcloths and proclamations about L. 7, 14s. But, in addition to these, it is sometimes necessary to recruit the fund by a voluntary subscription from the heritors and tenants. There are no assessments as yet. Some of the poor retain the old reluctance to receive parochial charity; but of late it is too frequently claim- ed as a right. January 1835. PARISH OF CRAIG. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARN8. THE REV. JAMES BREWSTER, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, Sfc. — The parish of Craig comprehends twojdistinct ti- tularides, viz. Inchbrayock or Craig, and St Skeoch or Dunni- nald ; which were united in the year 1618, and appear from that period to have received the common name of Craig. Inchbrayock^ or Inchbroyock, a word of Gaelic origin, is supposed to signify " the island of trouts ;" and the greater part of the fishing ground on this island is still called ^^ the trout-shot ;" or, according to another etymology, " Inis^Breic, the church or chapel island," as the church. formerly stood on this island, and the spot is still occupied as the parish burial-place. St Skeoch^ or St Skay, as it is usually pronounced, appears to have received its name from some of the northern saints. * A very picturesque spot on the coast is usually called the Chapel of St Skay ; but no ruins remain to mark the existence of any former edifice. A small burying-place is preserved around the spot, which is occasionally used for inter- ments ; and the site of the manse is still pointed out in an adjoin- ing field. An annual payment of L. 40 Scots also is still paid as rent of the glebe to the Earl of Strathmore, as superior of Res- tennet Craig was formerly the name of one of the principal properties in the parish, " the barony of Craig ;" and may have originated in the circumstance of a succession of rocky strata extending along the whole of the sea coast, and occurring also throughout the in- terior, very near the surface of the ground. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish extends about 6 miles in length, and nearly 2^ at its greatest breadth ; comprising a sur- • Several years ago, some of our fishermen found a boat at sea with the name, " St Skieou, Wolgast,** painted on the stern, which I personally examined and noted at the time. If pronounced SkieoflT, according to the analogy of the northern language, it would approach very near to the appellation Skeoch. 246 FORFARSHIRE. face of 6 J square miles. Its figure bears some resemblance to that of a battledore ; the broader part of which forms a sort of promontory between the river Southesk on the north, and the bay of Lunan on the south ; while the other extremity, resembling the handle, runs straight towards the west, and intersects the adjoin- ing parish of Marytown in its course. The river Southesk, which flows through a basin about 9 miles in circumference, filled by the tide at high water, separates the parish from the town and harbour of Montrose on the north ; while the whole of the eastern, and part of the southern, boundary is washed by the German Ocean. " Topographical Appearances, — The greater part of the parish towards the east forms a sort of table-land, gradually rising from the north and east towards the south-west, till it reaches an eleva- tion of 400 feet above the level of the sea. Dunninald is the highest ground on the south coast ; Govan hill, in the middle ; Pitarris hill and Mountboy towards the west. The extent of coast washed by the sea is not less than five miles. The shore is very rocky ; and towards the south is quite precipi- tous. The bays and headlands are, Montrose bay and Montrose ness on the north, and Lunan bay and Boddin point on the south. Climate, Diseases, Sfc. — The climate is more than usually healthy, compared with the adjoining districts. The most common dis- eases are rheumatism, fevers, consumption, dysenteries. " A sin- gular distemper, called the louping ague, has sometimes made its appearance in this parish. The patients, when seized, have all the appearance of madness, and their bodies are variously dis- torted. They run, when they find opportunity, with amazing swiftness, and over dangerous passes ; and, when confined to the house, they jump and chmb in an astonishing manner, till their strength be exhausted. Cold bathing is found to be a nxost effec- tual remedy." (Former Account)- One case of more recent date was remarkably checked and cured by terror. A singular instance of somnolency, or stupor, occurred at Dunninald in the year 1815, — an account of which, drawn up at the time by the writer of this article, is recorded in the Transactions of the Edinburgh Philoso- phical Society, and entitled " Remarkable Case of Margaret Lyell." Springs.* — Many perennial springs of excellent water are found in the parish, but only one little burn towards the west, which • The description of llic river Southesk and Its circular basin, which hound llic parish on the north, is considered as belonging to the account of Montrose. CRAIG. 247 forms a part of the boundary with the parishes of Mary town and Lunan, in that direction. Soil and Rocks. — Towards the eastern extremity of the parish the soil is of a sandy description ; towards the west, rather moorish ; and in the middle, which is by far the largest portion, it is a strong rich loam. The whole rests upon a mountain-mass of amygda- loidal trap rock, in which is imbedded a great variety of beautiful agates or pebbles. In many parts of the precipitous rocks along the southern boundary, little streams of water issue out and trickle down the face of the rocks, and which are found to be strongly im- pregnated with the carbonate of hme. The rocks in this parish arc old red sandstone and limestone, intermingled with various trap rocks, as amygdaloid, greenstone, &c Zoology. — Besides the ordinary wild animals of the country, such as the fox, weazel, hedgehog, &c. there are occasionally found in the parish the roebuck, the polecat, and the ermine. Seals are frequently seen among the rocks on the eastern coast ; and the otter regularly breeds in a cave at St Skay rock. Many birds of prey are natives and visitors of the parish. The osprey or sea-eagle, common buzzard-hawk, moor buzzard-hawk, goshawk, sparrowhawk, merlin, or kestril; which last builds in the tower of the parish church. The long-eared, short-eared, and tawny owls build in Mountboy wood, and the white owl at the rock of St Skay. The great ash-coloured butcher-bird is found at Mountboy wood ; the raven and jackdaw at St Skay ; the car- rion-crow, hooded-crow, and rook at Rossie. The magpie, jay, starling, blackbird, fieldfare, redwing, throstle thrush, and cuckoo. The great-spotted woodpecker, and the creeper; the greenfinch, bulfinch, bunting, yellow bunting, black-headed bunting, and snow-bunting. The house-sparrow, chaffinch, mountain-finch, goldfinch, siskin, canary-finch, gray linnet, red linnet ; the sky- lark, pippit-lark, woodlark, titlark ; the pied wagtail, yellow and gray wagtail ; the pied fly-catcher ; the redbreast, blackcap, white- throat, yellow wren, willow wren, least willow wren, gold-crested wren, common kitty-wren, white-rump, whin-chat, and stone-chat; the greater, blue, cole and long-tailed titmouse, all in Mountboy wood; the chimney-swallow, window-swallow, sand martin, swift or black-martin, nightjar or goatsucker, in Mountboy wood ; the wood-pigeon, and turtle-dove ; the pheasant, black grouse, par- tridge, quail, and land-rail ; the pee-wit, and golden plover, which 248 FORFARSHIRE. last builds in Rossie moor, and the ring-dotterel on Usan beach. The woodcock also is found in Mountboy wood. A vast variety of aquatic birds frequent the basin in the South- esk, which forms the boundary of the parish on the north-west ; namely, the oyster-catcher, and sea-pyot ; water-rail, water-ouzel ; a stork was lately seen in the basin, and afterwards shot at Ethie House ; the common heron and bittern, the curlew and whimbrel ; the common snipe and jack-snipe; the common godwit, Cambridge greenshank, and redshank ; the shore sandpiper, common sand- piper, brown sandpiper, black sandpiper, spotted sandpiper, dun- lin, purre, little stint, and turn-stone ; the common gallinule ; the commot coot ; the tippit, dusky, little, and black-chin grebes ; the razor-bill, penguin, puffin, and little auk ; the common, black, and spotted guillemot ; the great northern diver, imber, lesser, first- speckled, second-speckled, red-throat, and black-throat clivers; the common, lesser, Sandwich, and brown terns, or sea swallows ; the black-backed, herring, wagel, common, winter, black-headed, kittiwake, and Arctic gulls ; the stormy petrel ; the goosander, dun-diver, red-breasted merganser, and smew merganser ; the wild swan (seen in flocks in^ the basin in 1822) ; the gray lag-goose, white-fronted, bean, bernacle, brent, eider-duck, velvet, scoter, mallard, hook-bill, scaup, gadwale, wigeon, aiTd shieldrake, pochard, pintail, long-tailed, golden-eye, and tufted ducks ; the teal-duck also has been found on its eggs in Mountboy wood ; the cormorant, crested, shag or skart, crested-shag, gannet or solan goose. * Botany. — Though the parish of Craig does not include any mountainous district within its boundaries, still the plants which it produces are numerous, and in many cases rare. They are as- sociated, in general, with the secondai^ strata, and chiefly with the old red sandstone formation. The greenstone porphyry and other trap-rocks, which occur occasionally among the strata, exhibit their usual luxuriant vegetation, — a luxuriance arising probably from the alkali contained in the felspar, which enters into their composi- tion. The situations in which the vegetable productions occur ^re considerably varied. Besides the plants commonly found in fields and by road-sides, we meet with those which are peculiar to * I have given the above list of birds entire, as it was drawn up by Mr lliomas Molison of Montrose, whose practical acquaintance with the ornithology of this dis- trict may be compared to that of the celebrated Don, in botany ; iind wliose unas> suming merits as a collector and preserver of specimens are too little known and ap- preciated. His researches, however, in his favourite pursuit, are sadly cramped by the restrictions of the game laws. 3 CRAIG. 249 the sea-shore and to maritime cliffs, as well as those found on the banks of rivers, and in hilly, woody, and marshy places. The principal habitats of the rare plants are the steep banks close to th6 sea at Dunninald and Usan, the woods of Dunninald, Rossie, Mountboy, FuUarton, * and the loch at HolemilL On the sea shore, atid in the marshy places near it, besides various species of Atriplex, Arenaria^ Salicorniaj Glauxy Erodiunij Cakile^ and Aster, we have in abundance the Scirpus maritimua, Triglochin maritimum, Saffina maritimay Liffusticum Scoticum^ Lithospermum maritimum, and the Elynrna arenarius ; which last) along with the Triticum junceum, Ammophila arundinacea, Carex vidpina and arenariay is useful in binding together the loose sand along the coast. On the sloping rocky banks and the red sandstone cliffs at Dunninald and Usan, we meet with many rare plants. Among these may be enumerated the Astragalus glyq/phyllus, Carlina vul- garis. Campanula glomerata, and Artemisia maritima, which are all very abundant. In the same situation are found the fragrant Origanum or marjoram, and the aromatic Clinopodium, the Solidago virgaurea, the Oxytropis uralensis, the Gentiana campestrisy the beautiful blue Geranium pratense, the fine blood-red Geranium sanguineumy and, not far from the Dunninald cliffs, the elegant Campanula rapuncidoides. In the woods, fields, and by the road-sides generally, in addi- tion to the usual- plants, we find the Clielidonium mojusy Pyrethrum Partlieniumy Radiola miUegranay Pyrola mediay Solanum dul- camaray Verbascum Thapsusy Anchusa sempervirensy Cynoglossum officinaUy Echium vulgarey Dipsacus sylvestrisy Doronicum Parda^ lianches ; various species of mallow, especially the Malva moschata ; several Gnaphalia^ and the Dianthus deltoidesy which is met with in great abundance on the porphyry rocks. In a glen -[• bordering on the parish, there is a profusion of the Atropa belladonnoy the dark-purple shining berries of which, from their attractive ap- pearance, have so often proved fatal to children. In the lakes and marshes, the chief plants deserving notice are, the beautiful white water-lily, or Nymphcea alba; the yellow spe- cies, or the Nuphar lutea ; the Menyantlies trifoliatay or elegant buck-bean ; the Potamogeton pusillusy gramineusy and pectinatus ; * FuUarton is wiUiin the parish of Marytown, but touches the north-west boundary of Craig. •f* The glen of Bonny ton, in the parish of Mary town. 250 FORFARSHIRE. the Scutellaria galericulata ; the Sxibularia aquatica; the Cicuta virosoy or deadly water-hemlock ; the Sium hitifolium^ Ranunculus lingua^ Typha latifblia^ Hydrocotyle vulgaris^ Pamassia palustris^ Comarum palustre, Hippuris vulgaris^ Utricularia vulgaris^ and various species of Orchis.^* * The principal woods in the parish are, Govan hill, extending to about forty imperial acres; Mountboy wood, covering about 154 acres ; and Dunninald dean about six acres. The two former arc situated inland towards the western extremity of the parish^ and consist chiefly of the Scotch and larch firs ; the latter is close to the sea-shore oi> the south side of the parish, and consists rather of what are called the hard-woods, ash, beech, elm, and plane-tree. The silver fir is also found to thrive better on the coast than the Scotch fir. II. — Civil History. Correct plans of the different properties in the parish have been drawn very recently by surveyors ; and a map of the whole parish was prepared for the former Statistical Account by Colonel Colqu- houn, nephew of the late Mr Ross of Rossie, and at that time a young officer in the army. This map appears to have been co- pied in a map lately published of the basin of the Tay ; and ex- cept that a new manse has been built in the vicinity of the church, and the villa of Inchbrayock on the site of the old manse, besides a few changes made on the lines of road, it still presents a very correct view of the localities. Eminent men, — Among the eminent characters connected with the parish, may be mentioned the truly eminent and excellent Archbishop Leighton, who was descended from a family of consi- derable celebrity in former times, proprietors of the lands of Usan, but whose immediate relationship cannot now be traced with any degree of certainty ; Andrew Melville, who was born at Baldovie, in the north corner of the parish, and whose life by Dr M'Crie, has rendered his name and character familiar to the readers of Scottish history ; David Scott, Esq. of Dunninald, who, for a long period, acted a distinguished part in the direction of the East In- dia Company's affairs, was born and brought up in the parish ; and his nephew, David Scott, Esq. not less distinguished by his * The above notices respecting the botany of the parish of Craig have been kindly supplied by a highly promising and much esteemed young friend, Dr John Hutton Balfour of Edinburgh, who has been distinguished from his earliest years by what may justly be denominated a Linniean spirit of enterprise and research in this inte- resting department of natural science. CRAIG. 251 services in tlie Indian Empire, and to whose memory a monument has been erected by the Supreme Government in India, was the second son of Archibald Scott, Esq. of Usan. A brief memoir of his life has been published at Calcutta, by Msgor White, author of " Considerations on the state of British India*" Land-^wtiers. — The present land-owners are, Horatio Ross, Esq. M. P., proprietor of Rossie, 2471 imperial acres; Patrick Arkley, Esq. a minor, proprietor of Dunninald, 721 ; George Keith, Esq. proprietor of Usan, 862 ; Sir James Carnegie, Bart, proprietor of Baldovie, 98; and also of Pittarris, 60; undivided common, about 757. Parochial Registers, — The kirk-session records commence in the year 1653; and, though not voluminous, are regularly kept from that period, with the exception of a blank between 1694 and 1714.* Antiquities. — The ancient kings of Scotland possessed a right to a cadger road, from the shore of Usan to the cross of Forfar, the breadth of which was to be the length of a mill wand; and about seventy years ago the proprietor of Usan claimed a part of Monrithmont moor, equivalent to the extent of the said cadger road through that moor. A stripe of land, of about 30 acres along the shore of Usan, is said by tradition to have been the residence of the king's cadger. Craig, or Rossie, appears to have been an ancient feudal barony, as a field behind the house is still called Lawfield ; and as an adjoining farm-steading is still called Balgove, that is, the withie, or prison-house ; and a rising ground on the pro- perty, Govanhill, the withie-hill^ or place of execution. The castle of Craig, on the northern^ side of the parish, fre- quently mentioned in the chronicles of Scotland, appears to have been a place of considerable strength. A part of the building, still occupied as a dwelling-house, bears the date of 1634; but a square tower and gateway, still standing in a very compact condi- tion, bear the aspect of great antiquity. In the immediate vicini* ty of Boddin, on the south coast, may be seen the remains, or ra- ther the site of an old castle, which still retains the name of Black Jack, supposed to have been so named in comparison with Red- castle on the opposite side of the bay. — " At the extremity of the parish, to the east, where the Southesk falls into the sea, there * The register of baptisms commences in 1657» and that of marriages in 1661 ; but in the former there is a blank from 1700 to 1714; in the latter from 1662 to 1714; in both from 1717 to 1723. 252 FORFARSHIRE. were to be seen, about twenty years ago, the remains of an earthen fort, in the form of a square, each side of which was about 50 feet ; the walls 16 feet thick, and formerly as high or higher than a man's head. Within it there was a house for the purpose of af- fording shelter to the men, and holding stores and ammunition. Without the square, and facing the mouth of the river, there was a breast-work of earth, where cannon had been planted to defend the entrance of the river. Tradition reports that it had been made use of in Oliver Cromwell's time ; but whether erected by him, or in more ancient times, cannot now be ascertained. At this fort some cannon were placed so late as the year 1745." * Modem Buildings. — The modern buildings are, the parish church, built in the year 1799 ; the house of Rossie in 1800 ; the house of Dunninald in 1825; the house of Usan in 1820; the villa of Inchbrayock in 1813. These are aU constructed, as to the mass of the walls, of a stone found in the parish, called scurdy-stone ; but the fronts and more ornamental parts are built with freestone from quarries in the vi- cinity of Brechin, or in the county of Fife. III. — Population. The population in 1801, amounted to 1328 1811, - HGo 18-21, - - 1545 1831, - - 1552 There has been rather a diminution of the population in the more landward parts of the parish, in consequence of the demoli- tion of many cottages and hamlets ; and it is principally in the fishing villages that the increase has taken place. Several of those families, also, who were removed from their cottages, instead of leaving the parish, found a residence on Rossie island, adjoining to the town of Montrose, and which portion of the parish, as now included within the burgh of Montrose by the boundary bill, will, in a few years, become a sort of suburban appendage to that town. The number of the population residing in villages is as follows. 1. In F^jrryden, ----- 679 In Usan, - - - - - - 142 On Hossie island, - - - - - 119 In the country portion, - - . - - 690 2. The yearly average for the last 7 years of births, is - - - 51 deaths, - . - 26 marriages, - - - 15 3. The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is - - 663 betwixt 15 and 30, - - - 372 30 and 50, - - - 323 50 and 70, - - - 211 upwards of 70, - - - 61 • Former Statistical Account. CRAIG. 253 ^ The nuflibcrof indmdiMti or finmilifai of independent fortune reaidingiB the parish, is - - .5 proprietors of land, of the yearly value of L. 50 upwards, is 4 unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, is - - - 31 unmarried women upwards of 45, is - - 121 in which number is included widows, - . 41 5. Number of families, - - - - 371 Average number of children in each family, t. e. the average produce of each family, . - - . - 5 6. Number of inhabited houses, ... . 252 uninhabited or now building, . - 29 There is nothing remarkable in the personal qualities of the people. The number of insane is 2 ; fatuous, 3 ; blind, 2 ; deaf and dumb none. In their general character the people are intelligent and moral, and attentive to the public ordinances of religion. About thirty years ago, and even to a later period, the smuggling of gin and brandy from Holland prevailed to a great extent ; and great quan- tities of Highland whisky were brought into the parish by illicit traders. But the establishment of the coast guard has completely prevented the former practice ; and, since the smaller stills have improved the quality of their spirits, the latter has been almost en- tirely abolished. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — Imperial acres. There are in cultivation, - - - . 3509 2 37 waste or pasture, • - - 331 capable of tilkge, .... 250 undivided common,* most ofwhich are capable of tillage, 757 under wood, .... 291 The trees commonly planted are,* ash, elm, beech, birch, oak, plane, .willow, larch-fir, silver-fir, and Scotch -fir; and of late a greater degree of attention is paid to the management of planta- tions and woods. « Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre is L.3, 10s. The average rent of grazing for the year per ox or cow, is from L. 3 to L. 3, 10s. ; per ewe or full-grown sheep, from 12s. to 15s. Rate of Wages. — The rate of labour for farm-work per day is, for female labourers, 8d. ; for male labourers. Is. 6d. ; for masons, 2s. 6d. ; for carpenters, 2s. ; for mill-wrights, 3s. or 3s. 6d. ; for women servants in the family, but bound to labour at farm-work when required, from L. 5 to L. 6 per annum ; for ploughmen un- * This common belongs to four adjoining parishes, vii. Craig, Marytown, Famell and Kinnell. 254 FORFARSHIRE. married, and lodged in an out-house, called a bothie^ from L. 10 to L, 12, with an allowance of two pecks of oat-meal per week, and one Scotch pint of new milk per day ; for married ploughmen from L. 1 1 to L. 13, with the same allowance of milk and meal, a house, and commonly a small piece of garden ground, a cart-load of coals, and two bolls of potatoes. Husbandry. — The common breed of sheep in the parish is the Highland or black-faced; and of cattle, the Angus-shire black, with- out horns. The land, in general, may be said to be in a high state of cultivation, and managed according to the most approved system of husbandry. The duration of leases is almost universally for the period of nineteen years ; and their terms, in most cases, are sufficiently favourable to the occupiers. The farm-buildings are commodious in general ; and, in many instances, are of a very supe- rior description. A considerable portion of the land is also well inclosed. The principal improvements have been made in the draining of the lands, the application of manures, and the rotation of the crops. Quarries and Mines. — In various parts of the parish, there are quarries of the amygdaloidal trap-rock, mentioned under the head of rocks, called by the country people scurdy-stone, and com- monly employed in building, but not suitable for facing the doors and windows of dwelling-houses. There was a considerable body of limestone, forming a promontory or headland, at the southern extremity of the parish, about 12 or 13 acres in superficial extent, resting upon a soft sandstone ; both of which have been of subse- quent formation to the amygdaloidal trap-rock in the vicinity. This limestone is said to have been wrought so early as the year 1696 ; and is supposed to have been the first lime burnt in Angus-shire: 40,000 bolls of it have been made and sold in one year. But, after yielding a considerable revenue to the different proprietors of Dun- ninald, it is now nearly exhausted. The remaining portion, ex- cept at very low water, is almost constantly covered by the sea ; and the increased expense of working it, occasioned its being aban- doned in the year 1831. Fisheries. — There are very extensive fisheries in the parish, both of salmon and of white fish. " The salmon fisheries on the Southesk, belonging to the proprietors of Rossie and Usan, were formerly very productive. Those of Rossie, some seasons, yield- ed 10,000 salmon and grisles, but since the year 1781, they have fallen off greatly. The barrel of salmon sold twenty years ago for CRAIG. 255 about L. 3, ds. ^ and the fresh salmon for 2s. per Dutch stone : but of late the prices have increased to near double." * These fisheries became still more valuable during the period that stake- nets were employed in the river ; and at times the Rossie fishings have been let at L. 800. More recently these have only brought an annual rent of L. 650 ; and the fishing nearer the river mouth belonging to the estate of Usan, only about L. 50. In the year 182^9 a salmon fishery was established on the sea-coast close to the Boddin point, by the proprietor of Dunninald, which has proved remtrkably successful, and has brought a rent of nearly L. 400 per annum. The greater part of the salmon taken in this parish is packed in ice, and shipped for the London and Edinburgh mar- kets, and it is not easy to ascertain here the prices procured through- out the season. Those which are sold in this neighbourhood cost in the earlier part of the season, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per lb. ; and at other times from 8d. to lOd. The white or sea-fishing is carried on by the inhabitants of two villages, Ferryden and Usan,f, to a very great extent. The for- mer contains a population of 679, and the latter of 142, the greater part of whom are employed in the fishing, — in the one, 85 families^ or 590 souls ; in the other, 16 families, or 85 souls. In Ferryden 25 boats are regularly employed ; 18 of these, of a larger size, car- rying 6 men each ; 2 of a medium size, carrying 5 ; 5 of a smal- ler size, carrying 5 or 4. In Usan 6 boats, at an average, are em- ployed throughout the year, carrying 6 men each. In the winter season, during calm frosty weather, these boats go from eight to ten miles from land) nearly due east from the Bell- rock ; but in stormy weather, they rarely venture more than three or four miles from land. In summer, they go to a much greater distance^ and fish upon two banks called the north and south shold ; the first about eighteen, and the second twenty miles from Idnd. Four of the larger boats in Ferryden, and the same number in Usan, use in summer what are called the great lines, and some- times go thirty miles to sea. The boats with the great lines take principally, halibut, skate, cod and ling ; the other boats, cod and haddocks. The halibut is in best season from April to July, and the skate during the same period. The ling is best during the summer months, and the cod during winter, or from November to * Former Statistical Account. i- In the older records and graTe-stones, this village is denominated Ulysses-haven, probably from some Danish chief of that name. FORFAR. R 25G FORFARSHIRE. July. The haddock is good all the year, except the months of March and ApriL During the summer season, there may be frequently seen at Fer- ryd6n fifteen or sixteen boats, after an absence of twelye or four- teen hours, coming ashore in one day, with 1000 haddocks in each, which are currently sold in the Montrose market, or to retailers through the country, at little more than a farthing per lb. Fish- cadgere from the adjoining parishes, and from the towns of Forfar, Cupar- Angus, Perth, and Dundee, come at all times of the year to Ferryden for fresh fish ; and in the summer season, more^han a dozen of these carts, loaded chiefly with haddocks, may be seen tearing the village in one day. The greater proportion of the cod and ling are sold to fish-cu-* rers in Montrose ; and not less than 46,000 have been supplied in one year from the two fishing villages. Several boats also go to the herring-fishing at Fraserburgh, Peterhead, &c. ; and, at an average, they bring in 2000 crans or barrels in a season. The following list of fish has been given by one of our most in- telligent fishermen, as seen by himself on this coast in the course of his labours : The black whale, white whale, bafiert whale, bottle-nose, and porpoise ; the shark, seal, and dog-fish ; the blind-eye, so called from a membrane passing over its eyes when caught ; cod, ling, haddock, halibut, turbot; common skate, snack-skate, whap-skate, thomback-skate, and King James' s-skate; the white-flounder, sole- flounder, spotted-flounder, dab-flounder, Craig-flounder, and maid- en flounder ; the wolf, hog, cat, hawk, cole, and lied-fish ; herring, mackerel, pilchard, whiting; miller-thumb, golden-fish, banstickle, pirling; conger-eel, ramper-eel, fresh-water-eel, sand-eel; horse- mogral, camper-fish, gray-fish, stone-fish, and maiden-fish; sun- fish, goupney-fish, sea-mouse, sea-louse ; toad-fish, corie-fish, and star-fish; goose-tongue, anchor-fish, scaup, and clip-fish, which stick to rocky bottoms. The shell-fish are, lobsters, partens, crabs, fling-crab, hedge-hog, clampit, oyster, cockle, sea-buckie, river- buckie, black and white-wilks, rock and maiden-limpets, common mussel, horse-mussel, and spout-fish among the sand." The Ao- linia, sea anemone or sea marigold, is found in great abundance adhering to the rocks at St Skay, and is generally of a dark blood- red colour. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish : CRAIG. Produce of grain of all kinds,* ^ L. 12,482 Of potatoes, cabbage, turnips, &c. 5040 Of hay, including cut grass,f 2256 Of land in pasture, quite coarse, 35 Of gardens and orchards, • 400 Of thinning and ielling of wood. •i 25 Of fisheries, salmon, L. 2*220 sea-fishing, 4S18 herring, - 850 7888 257 L. 27,626 Manufactures. — In the manufacturing line, there is nothing car- ried on here to any great extent The reason may be, that the great object of pursuit in this district is agriculture ; and that the situation of the parish, much elevated and remote from rivers, does not furnish the water that would be requisite for extensive bleach- fields, and for the operation of mills." There are, however, thirty- six males employed in manufacture in the parish. Several years ago, small quantities of kelp were manufactured on the coast, but the process has for some time past been entirely dis- continued. Navigation. — Several inhabitants of the parish are joint proprie- tors of ships sailing from the port of Montrose, but there are no vessels which can be said to belong to the place. Many of the re- sidents in Ferryden and its vicinity are employed as seamen in na- vigating the Montrose shipping, and especially in the vessels en- gaged in the north-sea whale-fishing. Recently, however, the greater proportion of the crews of the whalers are taken on board from Shetland, where the hands required are easily procured at lower wages ; but our fishermen are ready to ascribe to this plan the di- minished success of the whale ships from this quarter, in conse- quence of the inferiority, as they allege, of the Shetlanders to our fishers, as vigorous and adventurous boatmen. The only navigable river is the South Esk, which separates thei parish from the town and harbour of Montrose. V. — Parochial Economy. The nearest market-town is Montrose, which is separated from the northern boundary of the parish only by the river South Esk, and to which there is access by a magnificent suspension bridge. Means of Communication. — The means of communication are, * I1ic value of the grain is estimated at the avcrnge prices for the years 1830, 1831, 1832. f About fifteen years ago considerable quantities of flax were raised on almost every fiirm in the parish ; but for several years past none has been sown. 1l^ FORFARSHIRE. K The pty^v-m the eastern, and four from the western, extremity of the parish ; but the great proportion of the inhabitants reside within a circle of a mile and a-half from the church. It was built in tbe year 1799, at the expense of the late Mrs Ross of Rossie, and present- ed by her to the parish. It is a very handsome structure} with a ^uare tower SO feet in height, and for a long period after its erection, it was the only country* church in the district possessed of any architectural beauty. It is preserved in a complete state of repair. The church is seated for 800 hearers. AH the sittings are free, that is, no rent is drawn from them by the heritors or kirk-session ; but there are occasional instances of entrants into the parish, such fts the men of the coast-guard, paying a trifling sum to any of the farmers who have more seats than their servants and cottars require. The present manse was built in 1805, and is in good repair. The glebe is six Scotch acres in extent, and would let at L. 20 or h, 24 per annum, besides an acre of ground around the manse. The stipend, which was previously small in proportion to the extent and wealth of the parish, received a considerable augmen- tation in the year 1830 ; and its average amount for the last three years is h, 268, 7s. lid. exclusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The whole population of the parish attend the Established 3 CRAIG, 259 Churchy with the exception of one old woman, who is an Episco- palian, another, who is an Independent, and one family of Se- ceders. It may also happen occasionally that some of the crew of the coast guard are Episcopalians, — but even in that case they usually attend the parish church. A fe^ families have returned from the Secession to the Established Church within the last twenty years. Divine service is generally well attended, both at the parish church and at the Sabbath evening lectures in the fish- ixig villages. The average number of communicants is nearly 500. An Association for religious purposes has existed for many year$ in the parish, chiefly under the direction of the ladies residing within its bounds; but it is at present in contemplation to connect this association more immediately with the missions and other re- ligious institutions under the direction of the Established Church. The average amount of the yearly contributions of said Associa- tion may be estimated at L. 10. The amount of church collec- tions for similar purposes, at the same sum. Education^ — The number of schools in the parish at present is 4. Of parochial schools, 1 ; of unendowed schools, 2 ; supported by individuals, 1. * In the parish school are taught, English, writing, arithmetic, geography, navigation, mathematics, Latin, and Greek. In one of th9 other schools, English, writing, and arithmetic ; and in the remaining two, which are taught by females, the only branch of education is English reading, with sewing and knitting. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 34 ; the amount of fees actually drawn, L. 17; The amount of session fees, &c. L. 13. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations ; and the dwelling-house is of a superior description to those usually pro- vided in the country. I am not aware of there being any individual in the parish who is altogether unable to read ; but many of the females, especially in the fishing villages, are unable to write. The people are very much alive to the benefits of education, and make great exertions to procure it for their children. No additional schools are required, except a female teacher for very young children at Usan. The greatest number of scholars at all the week-day schools during the year 1834 was 183. * This school is situated within the boundary line of the parish of Marytown, but is supported by Mrs Arkley of Dunninald, and attended principally by children from this parish. An in£int school was instituted in 1834 at Ferryden,( — at which 84 scholars under six years of age are taught. 260 FOBFABSHIUE. Literature. — A parochial library * was instituted in this parish in the year 1809, — the first in this district of these valuable institu- tions, and it now contains 590 volumes. More recently, a smaller collection of about 190 volumes l)as been provided for the village of Ferryden, and another of 96 volumes for the village of Usan. The books in all these libraries are principally of a moral and re- ligious description ; but they contain also several miscellaneous works of history and biography ; and in each library there is a set of the Kildare Street publications. The inhabitants of the parish have the use of these libraries gratis, which have been formed and upheld by donations of books, and oocasional collections in the pa- rish church. Charitable and other Institutions. — A considerable number of the inhabitants of the parish are members of friendly societies in the town of Montrose; but in the year 1819, a friendly society was instituted for the benefit of the fishermen of the parish, in- cluding also those who reside on the Montrose bank of the river, most of whom have originally belonged to the parish of Craig. This society has been attended with many good effects, and is in a very flourishing state. It consists of 160 members, and has a fund of about L. 500. A saving-bank was established in the parish in the year 1815, but, from various causes, has not received so much support as might have been expected. The investments have been principally made by unmarried domestic servants, fishermen, and coast-guard men, The sum invested yearly has been about L. 65, ds. 6d., and the amount drawn about L. 49, 16s. lOd. ; but a branch of the bank has been opened recently at the fishing village of Ferryden, which promises to prove very successful, — the sum of L. 43 having been invested, chiefly by young men, in the course of a few months. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving regular parochial aid is 26, and the average sum allotted to each is Is. Id. per week. There are occasional donations, how- ever, made to persons in temporary distress, who are not upon the weekly pension-list ; and two general distributions annually, from L. 8 to L. 10 each, are made among all the poor, — from 65 to 70 in number, chiefly widows and aged persons. " It may here * This originated in a donation of books from Andrew Balfuur, Esq. Edinburgh. A small library in Ferryden also took its rise from a similar donation by James Dou- glas, Esq. of Cavers, who, in the year 1827, expended L. 100 in donations of books to parish libraries and reading societies in Forihrshire. These donations not only laid the foundation of many parish libraries in this quarter, but became the means of inducing the ministers and inhabitants of other parishes to form similar institutions themselves. CRAIG. 261 be remarked, that, besides the private benefactions of residing heritors to the poor, they derive much benefit from the circum- stance of such families being of our own communion, and attend- ing the Established church, which has generally been the case for a century past During forty years and upwards, no poor have had occasion to beg, — the parish being both able and willing to maintain its own poor. Many, however, are apt to give liberally to strolling vagrants or sturdy beggars, who infest this district and the neighbourhood, — an evil severely felt, and which stands much in need of an effectual remedy." This description is still strictly applicable to the state of the poor in this parish. The average annual amount of contributions for their relief is about L. 136 ; arising from church collections, L. 70, Ids. ; from donations, L. 22 ; from interest of poor's funds, L. 43, 7s. * lliese funds are ordinarily sufficient for the stated supply of the poor in the parish ; and when any peculiar case of distress occurs, or any general pressure upon the more necessitous arises, which the kirk-session are unable to relieve, an extraordinary collection in the church, a subscription through the parish, or application to the heritors, never fails to procure the required supply. There is gradually less appearance of unwillingness among the poor to seek parochial relief, but in general they do not apply with- out necessity ; and several instances do still occasionally occur of great reluctance to accept of it, even when offered. One remark- able instance recently occurred, of a person living by his labour wishing to make some repayment of what his mother and sister had received from the poor-funds. Alehouses. — There is an undue proportion of alehouses in the parish, there being not less than thirteen already licensed, and two additional in preparation, which allows one alehouse to every twenty-four families in the parish. Their influence is most perni- cious in every respect ; and it is truly lamentable to perceive the in- sensibility so generally manifested by the more influential classes to the rapidly increasing evils among the lower orders of the commu- nity, which so obviously proceed from this fertile source of corrup- tion. Fuel, — The fuel generally used is coal, brought by sea from the English coast and the Firth of Forth, — the former at the rate of Is. 2d. per barrel, or about 12s. for a one-horse cart load, — and * Of the poor*8 fonds at interest, amounting in all to L. 850» the sum of L. 100 was presented in 1800 by the present Sir David Scott, Bart. Brighton ; L. 500 was left in 1806 by Robert Williamson, Esq. London, a native of the parish ; and L. dO was left in 1828 by Mrs Scott of Uson, long a resident in the parish. 262 FORFARSHIRE. the latter at 9s. 6d. per boll, which is nearly also the load of a single horse cart Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account, the real rental of the parish has been more than doubled, having increased from L. 4000 to L. 9500. The population has received an addition of more than 300 souls. The poor's fund, or principal at interest, has been increased by donations and bequests from L. 200 to L. 850 : the number of weekly pensioners has, at the same time, become more than double. The number of Dissenters from the Established church has decreased from 20 to 5. The church, manse, and school, all the mansions of the proprietors, and all the farm-houses except two, have been rebuilt The population in the villages has become greater in proportion to that in the country part of the pa- rish, in consequence of many cottages having been thrown down, and several pendicles of land added to the larger farms. There is, especially, a greater increase of the fishing population, who form, indeed, a most valuable class of the community, both pro- curing their own bread, and providing an abundant supply of whole- some food for others, at the daily peril of their lives, without trou- bling the public about rise of wages, or demands for employment. They are well treated in this parish by their immediate landlords ; but they still labour under some old feudal burdens, and are not so generally appreciated and encouraged as they deserve. There is a greater shifting of the agricultural population at the usual terms, especially among the unmarried servants, and a con- sequent deterioration of their morals, as they rarely remain long enough in the same parish to be properly brought under pastoral inspection and instruction, and seem to become less anxious to main- tain a good character in places where they are comparatively strangers, and from which they are likely so soon to remove. This evil appears to be owing, in no small degree, to the system of keep- ing the unmarried men-servants apart from the master's family, lodged in out-houses called bothies^ making their own food, and liv- ing, during their unemployed hours, much at their own discretion. There is a greater want of employment for the more aged females, who are not able to work, or to find work, in the fields ; and who cannot subsist upon the produce of their casual and poorly paid in- door occupations. Though there can be no question that large farms tend both to improve and uphold the agriculture of the country ; yet a few pen- dicles of land, from five to twenty acres in each parish, in the pro-> LOGIE PERT. 263 portion, perhaps, of one to every ten families of the agricultural labourers, would present a powerful stimulus to these labourers to save a little fund for the purpose of renting such a possession ; and though only one out of ten could thus succeed in his aim, yet, as all would be encouraged to cherish such a hope, all might feel an inducement to sobriety and mdustry, which, in present circum- stances, is greatly wanted. Another great benefit to country parishes, subsidiary, if not pre- paratory, to the last mentioned, would be the adoption of some systematic measures for diminishing the number of alehouses, and discouraging the use of ardent spirits, — an object which, on every consideration, moral and political, loudly demands the constant and united endeavours of the members of government, the gen- tlemen of the country, and the ministers of religion. Revised January 1835. PARISH OF LOGIE PERT. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARN8. THE REV. THOMAS HILL, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries^ Sfc. — The parish of Logie, or Logie- Mon- trose, as it was formerly called, was annexed to the parish of Pert about the year 1610 or 1615. The word Logie (which is very common throughout Scotland) is said to be of Gaelic origin, and to signify " a flat or low situation," which certainly corresponds to that of the old church of Logie, the remains of which are still romantically situated in a hollow or low ground close by the North Esk river. Pert is of uncertain origin. The old church of Pert is no less beautifully situated on the banks of the North Esk, near to the old North-water bridge, and three miles up the river from Logie. The united parish extends from east to west nearly 5 English miles, and from north to south 3 miles. Its boundaries are, on the north, the river North Esk ; on the south, the parish of Dun; on the east, the parish of Montrose; and on the west, the parish of Strickathrow. Topographical Appearances^ Sfc, — The figure of the parish is somewhat of an oblong or rather elliptical form, though by no 264 FORFARSHIRE. means regular. The lower part lies along the banks of the North Esk, which, by a beautiful curve, divides it, towards the north and east, from the adjoining parishes of Marykirk and St Cyrus. The upper part is pretty high, — ^generally, however, bending with a gentle declivity to the river, and commanding a noble and exten- sive view of the Grampians and Meams. In the lower part, the soil is a fine deep loam, while in the upper it is generally a black soil on a clay bottom. The temperature is in general keen, and apparently not unfavourable to longevity, although at times, par- ticularly in 1787-8, there have prevailed fevers highly infectious and epidemical. The other distempers most common amongst us are, the gravel, rheumatism, and consumptions. It is said that the plague raged here in 1648. Hydrography^ ^c. — There are several springs in the parish, but none of them of great celebrity. There was one in the old church- yard of Logic, formerly much resorted to for medicinal purposes, which is now completely dry. Another is situated near the spot where the old manse of Pert stood, and still yields a quantity of excellent water. The only river is the North Esk, already-men- tioned, more commonly called the North-water, which divides the two counties of Angus and Mearns. It takes its rise from the mountain torrents, and, after issuing from a small lake in the parish of Locblee, falls into the sea about three miles north of Montrose, by the South Esk, which also rises among the Grampians, and falls into an inland bay called the Basin of Montrose. The North -water produces in abundance excellent trout and sal- mon, — the fishing of which yields a considerable revenue to the different proprietors. The parish abounds with the usual sorts of game ; and, of late years, the pheasant, formerly a rare bird, has become very common. II. — Civil History. There are no historical events worthy of notice. Land'oumers. — The chief land- owners are the following, in the order of their valued rents: David Carnegy, Esq. of Craigo ; James Lyall, Esq. of Gallary; the Earl of Kintore; Lieutenant- Gene* ral Sir John Hope, K. C. B. ; the Most Noble the Marquis of Ailsa; and Alexander Cruickshank, Esq, of Strickathrow, — only the two first of whom reside in the parish. Parochial Registers, — There are no parochial registers in ex- istence of a date previous to the year 1716, — those prior to that date having probably perished amid the disturbances of 1715, — since which time they have been regularly kept, and arc now in good order. LOGIE PERT. 265 Antiquities. — -The only antiquities in the parish are the three tumuli, on three laws of Craigo, mentioned in the former Statisti- cal Account, and situated nearly a mile west of the house of Craigo. Two of these tumuli have been opened, and in one of them was found a stone coffin, containing a human skeleton almost entire, — the bones of an extraordinary size, of a deep-yellow colour, and vdry brittle. In the other tumulus opened, there were found, about a foot from the surface, four human skeletons of gigantic propor- tions, and near to these, a beautiful black ring like ebony, of a (ine polish, and in perfect preservation. The ring was 12 inches in circumference, and 4 in diameter, flat in the inside, rounded with- out, and capable of fitting a large wrist In the same tumulus was found an urn full of ashes. From the discovery of these skeletons of extraordinar}' size, both here and in other parts of Scotland, some confirmation would seem to be given to the ancient tradition, that at one time there was a race of giants in this country. III. — Population. There is no written record from which the state of the popula- tion can be exactly ascertained previous to 1791, when the amount was 999. In 1801 it had decreased about 100, in consequence of the junction of farms, and the demolition of cottar houses ; but since then it has gradually increased, and in 1831 it was 1360, — an increase, doubtless, owing principally to the flourishing state of the two manufacturing Establishments in the parish, which of late years have been greatly enlarged, and in the immediate vicinity of which, consequently, a great part, we may say about one-half, of the whole population is congregated. 1. The number of families in the parish is, ... 200 cliiefly employed in agriculture, - - 109 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 134 2. unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, above 50, - 9 unmarried women, including widows, above 45, - 50 3. Average number of births yearly for last 7 years, - - - 31 t deaths, ..... ]0 marriages, . ^ . . . 8 4. persons under 1 5 years of age, - - 50O upwards of 70, - - - ^ 30 The average number of children in each family is 5. There are 2 fatuous persons and 1 blind boy in the parish. Character and Habits of the People. — Their habits are generally cleanly and orderly. The ordinary food of the peasantry is oat- meal, milk, and potatoes. The people at large certainly seem to enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and advantages of so- ciety, and appear, moreover, to be contented with their situation and circumstances. Their character in general may be described as shrewd, industrious, moral, and religious. 266 FORFARSHIRE. IV. — Industry. jfyricuUure and Rural Economy. — There are few acres of waste land io this parish which could at present be profitably cultivated, and there are none of undivided common. The number of acres under cultivation is . d795 lying waste, about . 800 underwood, <- - 1100 The kinds of trees generally planted are, larches, spruce, and Scotch fir. , Husbandry. — The most usual mode of cropping in this parish is the four-shift, — that is, Ist, fallow ; 2dj a com crop sown down with grass seeds ; Sd, grass ; 4/A, oats. The grain raised is ge- nerally of excellent quality, and may be said to average as follows : wheat from 8 (o 10 bolls, barley 7 bolls, and oats 8 bolls per acre ; potatoes vary from 25 to 45 bolls, and bay from 150 to 200 stones per acre. There is little or no meadow-hay in the parish. Flax is not now raised, except for private use. Rent ofLsand. — The average rent of land in the parish is about L. 1, 10s. per acre; the valued rent is L. 3716, Ifte. 4d. Scotch; and the real rent may be stated at L. 5000 Sterling. Wages of Labour. — Women generally get from 8d. to lOd. per day, and men Is. 4d. in winter, and Is. 6d. or Is. 8d. in summer. Master wrights from 2s. 6d. to ds., and their apprentices Is. 6d. per day, without victuals. Unmarried ploughmen may be had at from L. 10 to L. 12 yearly, with 6^ bolls of meal, and a Scotch pint of sweet milk per day. The married men receive a little more money, with the addition of some coals and potatoes. The price of good carts is now from L. 12 to L. 14, and of ploughs from L. 3 to L. 4. There are generally a few sheep kept during the winter to consume the bone-dust turnip; and the kind of cattle in common use is the Angus-shire. The usual duration of leases is nineteen years. The state of the farm houses and offices is in general ex- cellent One steading was recently built at a cost of not less than L. 2000. There are almost no stone enclosures in the parish, and only a few thorn hedges, — the prevailing fence being composed of strong and moveable paling. With regard to improvements it may be added, that draining has been successfully carried to a great extent in this parish. Irrigation, however, is little practised ; and, except on the banks of the North Esk, embanking is not re- quired. Quarries. — There are some lime quarries in the west end of the parish, which were several years ago wrought to a considerable ex- tent, but are now completely given up. On the estate of Craigo, L.1100 672 4482 4d05 877 laeo 1425 250 50 LOGIE PERT* 267 also, there is a freestone quarry of excellent quality, but attended with such expense, that few stones now leave the estate. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish annually, as nearly as can be ascertained, may be stated as follows : 440 quarters wheat, at L. 2, lOs, 448 do. peas and beans, at L.ly lOs, 4075 do. oats, at L. 1 , 2s, 2870 do. barley, at L. 1, lOs, 234 acres hay, including what is cut green, 150 stones per acre, at 6d. per stone, ..... 196 acres potatoes, at L. 10 per acre, ... 285 do. turnips, at L. 5, Annual thinnings of wood, .... Salmon fishing, ..... L. 14,521 It may here be added, that a very productive source of income to many families is the dairy produce which is consumed in the pa- rish, and weekly, or oftener, sent to Montrose, amounting, it is be- lieved, to not less than several hundred pounds annually. Manufactures. — There are, as already mentioned, two great ma- nufacturing establishments in the parish, namely, those at Logie and Craigo. They are both situated on the banks of the North Esk, about half a mile distant from each other. The Logie works, which comprise a bleachfield and flax spinning-mill, belong to a company in Montrose. The bleachfield has been in existence nearly seventy years. At present, it is employed solely in bleach- ing linen yams, which are afterwards manufactured into various kinds of cloth for the home and foreign markets. The number of hands employed varies from 40 to 50, consisting of men, women, and boys, the boys earning from 4s. to 6s., the women from ds. to 6s., and the men from lOs. to 12s. weekly. The average work- ing time is eleven hours per day. The flax spinning-mill was erected upwards of thirty years ago, and has been lately much enlarged. It employs about 130 hands, consisting of men, women, and children. None are employed under ten, and but few un- der twelve years of age ; the wages vary from 3s. to 20s. and up- wards weekly, and the average working time, according to the late act, is sixty-nine hours weekly, or twelve hours per day, for five days of the week, and nine hours for the remaining working day. The Craigo works are still more extensive, comprising a flax spin- ning-mill of 31 frames, a bleachfield, cloth finishing machinery, and an alkali manufacture, giving constant employment to about 150 people, male and female, and paying about L. 100 weekly in wages. These latter works, which attained to their present extent 268 FORFARSHIRE. and importance in the hands of John Maberly, Esq. late Member for Abingdon, are now the property of Messrs Richards and Com- pany, London. Both works, the writer feels pleasure in adding, are under excellent management, and great attention is paid to the health, morals, and education of those employed at them. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no villages in the parish. The nearest market-town is Montrose, which is distant about four miles from the east end of the parish, and where the traffic during the week is very consi- derable. Means of Communication. — A daily post runs through the pa- rish from Montrose to Laurencekirk, and the Union and Defiance coaches from Edinburgh to Aberdeen daily pass in a different di- rection. The length of the turnpike roads is only about 3 miles, namely, 1 mile to the west, from the North-water bridge toll on the Brechin road, and 2 miles on the Marykirk road to Mon- trose ; the line of which last is now undergoing a considerable al- teration, with the view of avoiding the long ascent at the back of Rosemount. There are two great bridges connected with the pa- rish, — the old North-water bridge, which was built above 300 years ago, and. consists of three arches, and the Marykirk bridge, a handsome bridge of four arches, which was built in 1814, at a cost of L. 7000, by means of shares of L. 25 each, and under the sanction of an act of Parliament. This last erection was a great and decided improvement, and has very much facilitated the in- tercourse of the two counties. Ecclesioiiical State, — The situation of the parish church is ex- actly centrical, being about three miles distant from the two extre- mities. It was built in 1775, and has undergone sundry repairs. But it is neither a commodious nor a comfortable place of wor- ship, and, what is worse, it has of late become insufficient for the acc^immodation of the increasing population of the parish : the consideration of which circumstances will, it is hoped, soon lead to the erection of a new building, at once more comfortable and more adequate to the existing wants of the people. The number for which it at present affords suitable accommodation is 500, and there are free sittings for about 20 of these. The manse was built in 1776, and has at different times got repairs and additions, although still its accommodation is limited and confined. The glebe is about 9 acres in extent, and may be valued at L. 2 per atere. At the last augmentation in 1822, the stipend was fixed at 15 chalders, half barley and half meal, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for com- LOGIE PEllT. 269 munion elements. All the families in the parish belong to the Establishment, except 15, of whom 5 are Episcopalians, and the rest attend neighbouring Dissenting meeting-houses. When the weather permits, attendance on Divine service is' generally very regular and good. For the last five years, the average number of conmiunicants has been 500. There are no societies for reli- gious purposes in the parish. But the people, when appealed to publicly, as they frequently are, in behalf of such purposes as the * Assembly's Highland Schools and Indian Mission, seldom fail to respond in a very liberal manner, and for the last three years the average amount of church collections yearly, for special religious and charitable purposes, has exceeded L. 10. Education. — Besides the parochial, there are two unendowed schools, recently built, one at each of the mills, and also three smal- ler ones, taught by females, in different parts of the parish. The usual elementary branches are taught in them all. The parochial teacher's salary is the maximum, and his school fees amount to about L. 10. He is provided with all the legal accommodations* With the exception of the blind boy, and the two fatuous persons formerly mentioned, it is believed there are none in the parish above six years of age who cannot read or write. .The people in general are much alive to the benefits of education, and exert themselves to procure for their children the best teaching in their power. The total number of scholars attending all the schools in the parish is about 200. Literature. — There is a small parochial library, and also one at Logie Mill, the volumes of which, consisting of religious and in- structive books, are eagerly sought after by the young, and many of the older people. Savings Banks. — At each of the mills there is a bank kept ex* pressly for^he accommodation of the work people. Besides which, there has been a savings bank established in the parish, since 1815. For the last eight years, the deposits have averaged L.29, and the sums withdrawn L. 24 per annum. It is chiefly the la- bouring class by whom the investments are made, and there can be no doubt of the advant^e which they derive from so doing. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons on the poor's roll is 15, and the average sum allowed to each is Is. weekly, besides one or two extraordinary allowances during the year, and assistance in times of sickness. There are about 15 more who receive occasionally. In addition to which, exclusive of other less onerous demands, there are at present two imbecile ob- 270 FORFARSHIRE. jects who cost the session annually L. 15, 12s. The average an- nual amount of- the poor funds is L. 90, composed as follows : church collections, L. 40 ; donations, L. 20 ; interest of money lent, L. 15; and about L. 15 from seat rents, mortcloth, &c As yet, happily, assessment, either compulsory or voluntary, is ♦un- known amongst us ; and it is gratifying to remark, that there still exists among the people generally a feeling of independence which shrinks from asking parochial relief as long as possible, and which, at the same time, induces them to contribute to their poorer bre- thren so long as they have the means of doing so. Fairs. — There are two fairs now held in this parish, which for- merly used to be in the parish of Dun. They are still held on a part of the moor of Dun, on the second Tuesday of May and the third Thursday of June, and are for the sale principally of cattle and horses. Alehousesj Sfc. — There is a public house at one of the mills, be- sides those at the two toll-houses at the North-water and Mary* kirk bridges, which last are chiefly frequented by travellers, and are in general well kept. Fuel — The fuel commonly used is English coal, procured at the shore of Montrose at from Is. to Is. 3d. per barrel, and frequent- ly also hag or brushwood, which is to be had in great abundance in the parish, and at a very reasonable rate, varying from Is. to ds. per cart load. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the time of the last Statistical Account, (1791,) the two most stiking variations in the state of the parish appear to be the now highly improved system of husbandry, which is nowhere bet- ter understood, — And the great increase, as already mentioned, which has taken place in the manufacturing establishments. With regard to the improvements of which the parish is still susceptible, it may just be noticed, in conclusion, that the great desi- deratum, undoubtedly, is the improvement or amendment of the parish roads, nearly all of which are in a wretched state ; the money hitherto expended upon them being utterly inadequate to keep them in decent repair. But it is hoped and believed that soon more attention will be paid to them, and that the mode of keeping them up will be put on a better footing than at present, — one of them tending to increase the facility of internal communi- cation, and also greatly to enhance the value of property in the parish. January 1835. PARISH OF MONTROSE. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ROBERT SMITH, 1 MINISTERS THE REV. JOSEPH PATERSON, D. D. I I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — In a charter of Renovation and Confirmation, 23d David 11. dated Scone, 6th of March, and in another, 14th Ro- bert IL, dated Mouros, 2d February, — a charter believed to be by David I. to the burgesses of Montrose is engrossed, and al- though, from the tenor of that charter, it appears that Montrose viras a burgh even before, it is the earliest now known to exist, in which it is acknowledged as such. As that charter is rather a curi- osity in itself, and as it is not published in the public records of Scotland, it is given below.* In conformity with that charter, the ancient name of the town is said to have been Celurca or Salorky. The derivation of its present name from Mons Rosarum is evidently fanciful. It re- quires some stretch of imagination, to regard its site as a mountain; neither, from its soil and climate, can it be supposed to have at any time been distinguished for its roses. To this derivation, however, * David Rex Scocie, Episcopis, Abbatibus, Comitibus, Justiciariis, Baronibus, Vice* comitibusy Ministrisque, omnibus ct probis hominibus tocius regni sui, Francis, Scocis, Anglicis, et alils alienigenis tam pra>scntibus quam futuris, salutem. Sciant omnes me dedissie, ooncessisse, et hac prcsentc carta mea confirmassc, dilectis burgendbus meis, to- tam terram meam de Salorkiu, jacentem et situatam juxta portum de Stronnay ver- sus Aquilonem, sicut Raudus de Grantoun, Camerarius mcus, Thor. Vice Comes, et Ricardus Clericus, ca vice prompserunt, quando earn metiti sunt, pro quatuor ca- rucatis terre cum dimidia : Habcndam et tenendam dictam peciam terre, dictis Bur- genaibus meis, in libero burgo, cum omnibus rectitudinibus et liberatibus ad liberum burgum pertinentibus, adeo libere sicut bona villa mea de Perth de me tenetur ; et cum omnibus rectitudinibus empcionis ct vcndicionis legitime pertinentibus ad opus et ofitcium burgensium et mcrcatorum, de aqua de Tbawhoke usque Findonne, ct de Findonne per partes borealcs usque ad aquam de Carudy, et sic desceudendo per par- tes Australes usque ad aquam de Deychty, sicut currit in Drumlay : Volo itaque et concedo ut prcdicti burgenses ct heredes sui prcdictam peciam terre habeant de me, et heredibus meis in perpctuum, bene et in pace, in libero burgo, et quod tam ipsi, he- redes sui, quam omnes homines sui, et res eorundem, sint ad mcam pacem tirmam et protectionem, et heredum meorum in perpetuum, a calumpnia omnium hominum : Testibus, Duncano Comite, Herberto Marescallo, Uicardo Cancellario, Raudo Ca- merario, Alexandro de Straton, Raudo Sowlys, Thor. Vice Comite, Willielmo By- don. — Datum apud Foriare. FORFAR. S 272 FORFARSHIRE. the motto on the town's seal refers, mare ditatj ram decarat. The name in ancient charters, and which is still in common speech ap- plied to it, is Monross, — Ross signifying a promontorj, and Mon or Moinh the back : these two names are certainly descriptive of its situation at the back or more distant part of the promontory. Boundaries^ Extent — It is bounded on the east by the Ger- man Ocean ; on the north and south by the North and South Esk, — the latter separating it from the parish of Craig, and the former from the parish of St Cyrus. The North Esk is also the boundary of the counties of Forfar and Kincardine. On the west this parish is bounded by those of Dun and Logie Pert. Its length between the two rivers is about 3 miles ; its extreme breadth, about the same. Topographical Appearances. — Towards the south, the parish narrows to a peninsula of about a mile in width, formed between the. sea and the basin. On the west side of that peninsula the town is built. Above the bridge, which is nearly a mile from the sea, the river expands into what is called the Basin of Montrose, which at high water presents the appearance of a lake of about nine miles in circumference, — ^a circumstance which not only adds greatly to the beauty of the scenery, but is highly valuable in a commercial point of view, as the quantity of water carried to and from the sea every tide prevents the formation of a bar at the mouth of the river, thus rendering the harbour accessible, at all times of tide, to all except the largest class of vessels. The lower part of the pa- rish is level ; towards the north-west there is a gradual ascent nearly to its junction with the parishes of Dun and Logie. And although the greatest height is inconsiderable, yet, from that part of the pa- rish the view is rich and varied. Diseases. — There are no diseases that can be considered ende- mic in the parish, though it certainly has its due share of catarrhs, rheumatisms, sore throats, and all the common epidemics. In the summer of 1833 we had a very gentle visitation of malignant cholera. Sporadic cases of typhous fever are of frequent occurrence both in the town and neighbourhood ; but this disease has not prevailed to any extent, nor assumed a malignant type since 1819, when the mortality attending it was very great It has been remarked, that genuine Phthisis pulmonalis is less frequent here than in various other parts of the country, though the other forms of scrofula are by no means uncommon. Calculous disorders seem also to be com- paratively rare. Upon the whole, the parish must be considered MONTROSE. 273 healthy, — an inestimable advantage, for which it is probably in a great measure indebted to the dryness of its soil. Geology. — The lower part of the parish b sand to a great depth, and as that sand is mixed with sea shells, it is highly probable that the basin has at one time been a bay. The lower part is separated from the upper for the space of upwards of a mile, by a low mound running nearly parallel with the sea, formed of round water-worn stones or bowls ; whether this mound has been left in its present state by the retiring of the sea, or whether it is not in a great de- gree artificial, affords room for doubt. . The north road is carried along it, and a considerable portion of it has been removed for metal to the roads. Although it is only a few yards in breadth, the soil on the west side of it is of a totally different nature from that on the east, part of it being black loam with a clay bottom, part of it lighter with a gravel bottom. On the estate of Hedderwick there is a limestone quarry, and a great part of the higher grounds in the parish probably rests upon lime. The want of stone in the neighbourhood is, in an economical point of view, a great disadvan- tage to the town. The stones used in building have to be brought from Brechin, a distance of eight miles, or from other quarries about the same distance. Lately a considerable quantity of stone has been brought from the south coast of Fife by sea, and the dif- ference in price between these and what is brought by land is not material. There is a mineral well in the parish still resorted to by people in its immediate neighbourhood : but its reputation does not stand high. Zoology — Under this head, there is little deserving particular notice. The principal varieties of birds that frequent the basin are enumerated in the account of the parish of Craig, and it is unnecessary to repeat them here. The salmon-fishings in the ri- vers which bound the parish, and in stake-nets along the coast, are valuable. The market is abundantly supplied with white fish, chiefly cod and haddocks, also ling, whitings, halibut, turbot, flounders, &c. The families employed in the fishing reside chiefly in Ferryden and Usan, villages in the parish of Craig. From the same quarter, a great many fish are carted for the supply of the in- land parts of the country. Botany. — In this department, the parish does not produce much that is particularly deserving of attention, although it certainly possesses a considerable variety of indigenous plants. The sea 274 FORFARSHIRE. shore, which forms its eastern boundary, being a low sandy beach, aflbrds no support to the AlffCB^ except among the shingles toward the moutlis of tlie North and South Esk, where some of the Con- ftrtxBi Fuciy and iMininaricB occur. The other marine plants in this direction are chiefly the Sahdla Kaliy CakiU maritimoj Eryngium maritimum^ Arenaria jfeploides, Statice Armeria, The extensive range of sand hills skirting the beach is bound down and secured, as in other places, chiefly by the Arundo arenaria, Eltpnus arena-' riuSf and Triticum junceunu Here, also, and along the links, we find the Tragopoyon pratensis, Salix repens, Thalictruni minus^ Astragahis hypoglottis, Gentiana campestris. Ononis arvensis^ in great profusion : Trifoliuni arvense, Medicago lupulina, Convobm" Ills arvensisy &c. The Silene conica, a plant not hitherto recog^ nized as indigenous in Scotland, grows plentifully in the North Links, though it has probably been introduced along with tfie rye- seed, a considerable quantity of which is raised there, as agreeing best with the light sandy soil. Along the margin of the basin, westward of the town, we find the Arenaria marina, Glaux mari- timoy Chvnopodium niaritimum. Aster Tripolium, Triglochin mart" titnum, Cochlcaria officinalis^ Salicomia herbacea with one or two varieties, Scirpus maritimus, &c. Abundance of the curious Zt)stera marina is left by the tide; and, though it does not ap- pear to be actually produced within the boundary of the parish, it is mot with a little higher up the basin, growing in the sea water pools along with the still more curious liuppia maritima. In pastures and by road sides, grows the comparatively rare Ci- chorinm Intyhus ; also Echium vulgare, Papaver Argemone, Centau- rea scahiosa, Marru/rium vulgarc. Nasturtium terrestre, Tanacetum vnlgare, Venmica scutclluta, Lithospemnum aiTCJisc^ Conium macula'^ turn. In marshes and ditches occur the Menyanthes trijhliata, Iris Pseud^Acorus, Sparganium ramosum, Scirpus lacustris, Alisnia PlantayOy lianunculus aquatilis, hederaceus, and sceleratus ; several species of Potamoyeton, Myriophyllum spicatum. Orchis lifolia, Mario, &c. In the more elevated grounds we meet ^iith the Irientalis Europcea, Pyrola minor and secunda, Genista Anglica, Gymnadenia conopsia. In the Cryptoganiic Flora there seems to be nothing very remarkable, though a good many species of Fungi, some of them rare, grow on the links and sand-hills. Within these few years, a considerable quantity of forest trees of various kinds has been planted on the estate of Charlton. There is also some extent of fir on the north-west boundary of the pa- MONTROSE. 275 rish. These, together with the trees about the houses of the prin- cipal proprietors and some of the farm-steadings, constitute almost the whole of the wood in the parish, — so that, upon the whole, it is but scantily supplied with this important article in rural scenery. II. — Civil History. Land'Otoners. — A considerable portion of the land in the im- mediate neighbourhood of the town is in small properties or feus, extending from two to six or eight acres. The principal proprie- tors in the parish, with their valued rents, are George Fullerton Camegy of Charlton and Kinaber, L. 489, I6s. 4d. ; Alexander Renny Tailyour of Borrowfield and Newmanswalls, L.733, 6s. 8d.; John Duncan of Rosemount, L. 406, 4s. ; James Cruickshank of Newbigging, L. 169, lis. 8d. ; George Robertson Scott of Hed- derwick, L. 501, Is. 4d. ; total valued rent, L.2d00. The real rent of the whole parish, as ascertained by a valuation made about four years ago, is, of the burgh, L. 18,700; of the landward part, L. 6656 ; total, L. 25,326. Parochial Registers. — The proceedings of the kirk-session are recorded in seven volumes: 1*^, From 1633 to 1651; 2rf, from 1686 to 1691 ; 3c/, from 1696 to 1724; 4M, from 1724 to 1734; bth, from 1734 to 1787; 6^A, from 1787 to 1815; 7th, from 1815, &c. Historical Notices. — There are no printed histories of Montrose, except such as are to be found in Encyclopaedias, Gazetteers, &c. " 1296. This year, John Comyn, Lord of Strathbolgie, basely and traitorously, contrary to his faith, delivered King John (Bahol) to Edward King of England, at the Castle of Montrois in Angus, in the fourth year of John's reign, and there he surrendered his crown." The crown was snatched from his head, — the ermine torn from his mantle, — the sceptre wrested from his hand, — and every thing taken from him, belonging to the state and dignity of a king. Dressed only in his shirt and drawers, and holding a white rod in his hand after the fashion of penitents, he confessed that, by evil and false counsel, and through his own simplicity, he had grievously offended his liege-lord, recapitulated all the late trans- actions, and acknowledged himself to be deservedly deprived of his kingdom. ♦ * Historians, it is well known, are not agreed in regard to the place where Baliol resigned his crown ; and although the locality of that transaction is hardly a point so much worth contending for as the birth-place of Homer, yet, as among other places it has been assigned to Montrose, and as the opinion that it actually did take place 'there seems to accord with the account we have received of Edward's journey t it 276 FORFARSHIRE. It was from tbe port of Montrose that Lord James Douglas, at- tended with a numerous retinue of knights and esquires, set sail in the spring of 1330, in execution of the last charge committed to bis care by bis deceased master, King Robert Bruce, to carry his heart to Jerusalem to be deposited in the Holy Sepulchre. John Erskine, Laird of Dun, and grandfather to the associate of John Knox in promoting the Reformation in Scotland, treated the inhabitants of Montrose in the most tyrannical and arbitrary manner. The oppressions of him and of his family at length be- came 80 insupportable, that the town applied to the king for re- dress, and in the subjoined Royal warrant, issued in consequence of that application, we have a striking and interesting illustration of the state of the country in feudal times. * Thu John the Balliol dyspoyled he Of all bis robys of ryaltic. The pdure thai tuk off )iis tabart, Tume tabart he was callyt aftyrwart." WyNTON, Vol. ii. p. 68. been thought proper to mention it. The former part of the statement in the text is ex- tracted from Sir James Bal4»ur*s Annals, and a similar account is given by Wynton. This John the Balliol, on purpos, He tuk and browcht hym til Munros, And in the castell of that town, That then was famous in renown, * '* Summons of Spulzie, Burgh of Montrose v. Erskine of Dun, 4th October 1499. — James, be the grace of God, King of Scottis, till our Scheref of Forfare ande his deputis, & to our louittis, Alexander Bannerman, Js. Ramsav & John of Strauch- auchlin, St Andro Gardiner, oure Schereflis in that part, conjunctlies and severallie speciallic constitut, greeting, — Forsamekle as it is humily menit Sc complenlt to us, by our louittes, the bailzeis, burgcssis, & communitc uf our burgh of M ontross, that now of laite John of Erskin, lounger of Dun, Maister Robt Krskin, Walter Erskin, & Thomas Erskin, with their complicis, household folkis, & servitoris to John Erskin, elder of Dun, & of bis causing, has maisterfully eitc & distroit all yair cornis yat grew yis zere upone ye comraone landis of our said burgh : & incontinent thereafter, ye saidis pcrsonis, with yair complicis bodin in fere of, were with spcris and bowis come to our said burgh under silence of nycht for ye destruction 8c sluuchtere of oure ]eige% inhabitants yairo^ & bostit ye alderman of ye samyn, he being in his bed, saying yai suld pul down his houss above his bede : And alss, quhar ye fycharis of our said burgh, Jrair wyffis 8t servandis, were now of laite gederandc bait to yair lynis, in our watter, ikeas vaihafiTusit & done but impediment, sene yc first foundacion of our said burgh, ye said John Erskin, elder, send his servitoris & folkis & spoilzeit yaim of yair clathis, & as zit witbholdis ye samyn, & rydis bodln in fere of were, nychtly and dailie waltis ve nychtburis of our saide burgh for yair uttir distruction & slauchtcr ; and -haldis his folkis onbushit in his Innis, within our said burgh, to invaid ye nychtburis yairof in yat wise, yat for dreid of yair lyflis yai dare not pass utouth ye sain3ni to merkates, nor nain by-placis, bot are opprcssit and haldcn ondcr subjection by ye saidis personis & yair complices, by ye committing of yir injuiris, & mony uyeris oppressionis upon yaim, bath of aid Sc new, as diveriss billis & complaintis present to us, onder the se- crete sele of our said burgh yereupon proportis, to the grit lychtlying and dcrogacionc of our autorite riall in yat pairt, yat is oblist to defend al our legis fra oppressione both to burgh Sc land within our realme, & in evil example to uyeris to committ sic- lykc offenses, geff we suffer yir unpunist, — Our will is herefore, & we charge zou straitly, & commandis, yat ze peremptorilie summonde, warn, & charge yc siiidis Johne of Erskin, elder, John of Erskin, zounger, Maister Robert Erskin, Walter Erskin, & Thomas Erskin, to compere before us, & our counsale at Edinburgh, or quhare it MONTROSE. 277 In the year 1648, the town was visited by the plague, as appears from the following entry in the session record. ^^ Because of ane fearfull prevailing pestilence entered into the city, enlarging and spreading itself, dailie destroying and cutting down many, which occasioned ane scattering and outgoing of all the members of ses- sion to landward, for their refuge and saiftie, therefore there was no session nor collection in this our church of Montrose betwixt the last of May 1648, and the 1st of Februarii 1649." In February 1716, James, the first pretender, sailed from Mon- trose, a vessel having been prepared to carry him off, and the prin- cipal part of his chieftains. At eight o'clock at night, having ordered his horse to the door of the house where he lodged, with all his guards mounted in the usual manner, he went from his lodg- ings by a back door to those of the Earl of Mar, and thence, in company with the Earl and one domestic, by a private footpath, to the water side, where a boat was in waiting, which carried them aboard the Maria Teresa of St Maloes. Montrose was the only town in Scotland, so late as the com- mencement of the eighteenth century, where a person could be sail happen us to be fur ye time, ye secund day of November nixt to cum, gif it be lauehful, and faikeing yairof, ye nixt laucliful yairafter following, in the houre of cause, with continuacione of dais, to answere to us upon the committing of saidis spulzie> oppressionis, 8c injuris contenit in yc saidis billis, upon our leiges inhabitant of our said burgh, balth of old and new, and upon ye contcmpcione done to our au« torite riall yerthrow : And in it yat we sail mak be said to yem yairfore in our name at yair coming ; and to answere at ye instance of the alderman, bailzcis, burgesses, & communite of our said burgh, for the wranguiss dcstruccione of yair saidis cornis, ex- tending to XVI bollis of aitis, with yc fodcr, price viii merkis ; ande spoilzeing and withhalding of ye saidis claitlils fra ye saidis fycharis, yair wyffis, and servandis, ex- tending to ye avale of v libri, and ane m&st of a schip, with the tow & takle of yc sa- myn, spoilzeit fra yaim out of ye havin of ye saide burgh by ye saidis Johne & Johne ; price XX merkis ; and for ye costis, dampnage, & scaitht sustenit by yaim throw ye saidis oppressionis & injuris : and forycr, to answere to us and to yc party, in sa far as law will, making intimation to ye saidis personis, yat, quheyer yai compere or uocht ye saidis day & place with continuacciune of dais, we will proceed and minister justice in the saide mater, in sa far as we may of law ; and attour yat ve summonde Thomas Scote, John Scote, Nycole Malcolme, Thomas Wowar, & Alexander Lid- dale, to compere before us and our counsale ye saidis day 8c place, with continuacione of dais, to bear lele and suythfast witnessing, in sa far as yai know or sal be sperit at yaim in ye said mater, under al pane and charge yat cfter may follow : and attour yat ye pass & tak sikkcn sourte and lawborrows of ye saidis personis & yair complicis yat sail be given to you in bill, yat ye saidis alderman, bailzies, burgessoss, or comu- nite, will mak faitht before you yat thai dreid bodily harm of, yat is to sal, of ye saide John Erskin, elder, under ye pain of five hundredth pundis, & of ilk ane of his saidis •onis, jc. libri ; and ye remnant ilk gentilman landit, jc libri ; ilk gentilman unlandit, jc merkis ; & ilk zeman, xl. libri, yat ye saidis alderman, baUzeis, burgesses 8c com- munite of our said burgh, sal be harmless & scaitlilcss of yaim, and all yat yc ma lett but fraude, orgil, uyerwais yan ye common course of law will, and yis ye do as yc will answere to us hereupon. Tlie quhilke to do wc committ to zou, conjunctlie 8t severallie, oure full power by yir letteris, delivering yaim be you duely execute & en- dondte agan ye oyth berar. *' Given under our Segnete at Stiruoling, yc ferde day of October, & of oure regnc ye sext zere. " Per S. D. N. Rcgem in persona propria cum avisamcnto concillii, (Signed) ** J. Chkpmake." 27*^ FORFARSHIRE. found who understood the management of pumps in coal-works : this was John Young, a citizen of Montrose, who had been sent over to Holland by the magistrates, for the purpose of learning the most improved modes of constnicting and using windmills. Eminent Men. — James Graham, Marquis of Montrose, who makes so distinguished a figure in the civil wars of the seventeenth century, first as the champion of the covenant, and afterwards in the service of the king, was born at Montrose in 1612. In 1534, John Erskine of Dun, afterwards superintendant of Angus, brought from the continent a Frenchman of the name of Marsilliers, capable of teaching the Greek language, and establish- ed him in Montrose, which is believed to have been the first place in Scotland where this noble tongue, previously almost unknown in the country, and an acquaintance with which was deemed to imply a tendency to heresy, was taught. Andrew Melville, who has been styled the Father of Presbytery in Scotland, born in the neighbouring parish of Craig, was educat- ed in Montrose ; and when, in his fourteenth year he was removed to the University of St Andrew's, he surprised his teachers by his knowledge of Greek, with which they were wholly unacquainted. Here also James Melville, the nephew of Andrew, attended school, and gives, in his Diary, a very interesting account of the manner in which his education was conducted, and also of the kindness he ex- perienced from the then minister of Montrose. III. — Population. In 1755, the population of this parish was . 4150 1790, about the date of last Report, it was . G194 1801, by census, - - - 7974 1811, - - - 8955 1821. . - - 10338 1831, - - - ^ - 12055 In the last census sailors were not included. Tlieir number may be from 700 to 800. Since 1831 the population has still conti- nued to increase. In 1833 the proclamations were 89; baptisms registered, 140; burials, 293. The proclamations and burials are correct, but the baptisms are not nearly one-half of the actual number baptised, — a circumstance which shows clearly the neces- sity of a legislative enactment rendering it imperative upon parents to attend to this important matter. Besides the families employed in trade, manufactures, &c. there are considerable numbers who, from various causes, have chosen Montrose as their residence; and hence there is in it a class of society superior to what is to be found in many countrj' towns of like size. MONTROSE, 279 Language^ Customs^ S^c. — One great peculiarity which strikes a stranger from the south, in the language of the common people in this county, and in the neighbouring counties on the north, is the use of y for whj ^sfan^far^ &c. for when^ where, &c. Except by the better classes, the lowland Scotch is universally spoken with a strong provincial accent Amusements, — Golf playing, a pleasant and healthy exercise, for which the links afford one of the best grounds in Scotland, is much practised by all ranks and all ages. Cricket has also of late years been introduced. The theatre and horse-racing may be numbered among the things that were in Montrose, — the building for the former having been converted into dwelling-houses, and the race- course not having for a number of years been applied to its original purpose. Players, however, still occasionally visit the town, and per- form in places of temporary accommodation, — little, it is believed, either for their own profit, or the improvement of their audience. Habits and Character of the People. — When, a few years ago, cholera threatened the town, great exertions were made to promote among the lower ranks attention to cleanliness, the want of which was then ascertained to exist to an extent of which previously many had no idea ; and, although some may have been thus brought to see and to feel its advantages, yet there is still considerable room for improvement in this respect The general abundance and consequent cheapness of fish, while it is an advantage to all the inhabitants, is peculiarly > so to the poorer classes, as compared with those who live in more inland districts. There are very few grown up persons who cannot read ; and although here, as elsewhere, different opinions are entertained in regard to civil and ecclesiastical matters, these have not occa- sioned such asperities, nor so marred the pleasures of social inter- course, as in some other places; nor, upon occasions which bring the people together, and upon which their conflicting opinions are most likely to influence the conduct, has any of that tendency to rioting, of which we hear elsewhere, been manifested by them. The easy access to libraries, and the extent to which the inhabit- ants avail themselves of the privilege, have tended greatly to dif- use intelligence and general information among all ranks. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The whole number of acres in the parish is about 3080 Scotch measure, of which, with the exception of the beach along the sea shore, and some steep banks on tl\,e North Esk, the J 280 FORFARSHIRE. whole may be said to be arable. The character of the soil in the lower part of the parish has already been referred to. A consider rable portion of the estate of Borrowfield is moss, now completely improved, and in a state of high cultivation; the higher grounds to the north-west are thin and moorish. Rent of Land. — The average rent of land throughout the whole parish may be stated at about L. 3. Some of the acres in the im- mediate neighbourhood of the town let at from L. 6 to L. B. HuAandry, — The chief difference between the mode of forming in this and in the neighbouring parishes is perhaps the greater proportion of green crop which is raised, — grass and turnips always finding a ready market, and generally bringing a high price. Tlie exact amount of agricultural produce raised in the parish, it has been found impossible to ascertain. Manufactures. — The principal manufacture in Montrose is flax- spinning and weaving. There are five flax spinning -mills in the parish, — four of which are moved by steam power; the other, which is on the North Esk, is driven by water. On the same river there are, in the neighbouring parish of Logic, other two mills connected with those in Montrose. The steam power by which the four mills in the town are driven is equal to 129 horse power. The four mills in the tf>wn ^ produce annually 854,869 spindles ; the two in Logic |mriHh, «)02,224 ditto. Of the yarn spun part is manufactured by ihi! fnill Hpinners, and part of it sold to other manufacturers. The following \n as mxurate a statement as could be obtained of the iirnriMfit of cloth made hero, or at agencies in the neighbourhood. fyaf/rM,~''T\u} following are the present wages of manufacturing InlioiinrfN : muiwrn fnun Hh. to I4h. u-week, few so high as the lat- ter rate; children at the niillH from 2s to 3s. 6d. ; and women's wug years ago, when, having been rofidemned im diin^erous it was taken down. A new steeple is just roiiipleted from ii tle*«ign by Mr (lillespie Graham, architect It roiinintn nf an elegant imtl massy (lothic tower, upwards of 100 feet \\\\i\\% Hunnounted by a spire nearly of the same height. In iM'Jtl, It rliitp(«l of ease (now St John's Church) was open- eil for pnblir worrtliip. It is seated for about 1500, and is neatly lilted up ill the iiinitle. Ht Peter'n Mpim'opal chapel in the links was founded in 1722, mill ih a neat anti conimtMlious place of worship. The town-house, wliii'li htaiiilH ill the High Strt»et, and disfigures the street by en- eroai'liing ton far npeii it, contains the council-room, guild-hall, eoiirt room, eotUH»-rouring MX or seven months of the year, the Aberdeen steam-boats take in and land goods and passengers. There are three toll-roads in the parish ; — the Aberdeen road, one to Mar^kirk bridge, and the Brechin road; of each of the two former, about three miles are in the parish, and nearly a mile of the later. Ecclesiastical State. — The church of Montrose is collegiate; each minister has a district both of the town and country part of the pa- rish. These districts do not seem to have been assigned by any authority, but rather to have been adopted as matter of private ar- rangement, as they have occasionally been altered to meet the changes in the population. In terms of the act of last General Assembly, a district in the town, with a population of about 3000, has been assigned to the chapel of ease. The sacrament is dis- pensed twice a-year in the church and chapel. The number of communicants in the former varies from 1700 to 2200; the average may be about 2000; in the latter, 400. But, as a considerable proportion of those in regular communion with the church commu- nicate only once a-year, the above numbers are greatly below the actual number of communicants in the parish. There was neither manse nor glebe in the parish previous to the decision of the House of Lords in the case of Ayr in 1827. In consequence of that decision, the presbytery of Brechin, upon a pe- tition from the minister in the first charge, designed a glebe of the legal extent) viz. four acres, together with half an acre for the site of manse, garden, &c The glebe might rent for about L. 20. The manse was built in 1830. The stipend of the first charge, paid MONTROSE. 285 from the teinds, is 19 chalders, half meal and half barley, the va- lue of which, according to the fiars prices of the county, upon an average of the last seven years, is L. 295, 5s. lOd., with L. 10 for communion elements. The stipend in the second charge is paid from an annuity raised in terms of an act of the Scottish Parlia- ment, 1690. The act authorizes five per cent upon the rents of all houses in the burgh ; but, from the increase of the town, it has not for some time past been necessary to levy to that amount. A few years ago, the incumbent, and the magistrates who levy the as- sessment, not being able to agree as to the amount of stipend, an action was raised before the Court of Session, who fixed it at L. 840 ; and the assessment required to realize that sum, including the expenses of collection, is 2^ per cent. The minister in the second charge has neither manse nor glebe. The stipend of the minister in the chapel of ease is L. 150, with L. 12, at each of the sacraments, for communion elements. The only funds are the seat rents, and twelve collections allowed to be made yearly. There are two Episcopalian chapels in the town, one not in con- nection with the Episcopal church in Scotland, the other under the Bishop. There are two congregations in connection with the United Associate Synod, one of Methodists, one of Baptists, one x)f Glassites, and one of Independents. The greater part of these congregations are small, and a proportion of their members come from the neighbouring parishes. Although there are many who pay little or no attention to religious ordinances, yet in general the stated congregations are regular in their attendance upon their respective places of worship. Number of families attending Established church, 2072 ; fami- lies attending chapels of Dissenters and Seceders, 441 ; families attending Episcopalian chapels, ^93. Eight or 10 iamilies f)ro- fess to be Roman Catholics : and about 99 families are of no re- ligious persuasion. Societies for Religious purposes — There is in the town a So- ciety auxiliary to the Edinburgh Bible Society; an association in aid of the General Assembly's Highland Schools, and the Mission in India,' has lately been formed in this parish. There is a Penny a-week society, the funds of which are annually divided among se- veral school and missionary societies. There is also a Methodist missionary society. Education. — There are in the academy a rector, who teaches mathematics, geography, and French, two English teachers, two for writing and arithmetic, and two for Latin. The salary of the 286 FORFARSHIRE. rector is L. 50, thai of the first Latin teacher L. 40; with all the fees. The second has L. 50, paid from a mortification; one of the English teachers has L. 40, and the other, together with the teach- in^ of writing and arithmetic, L. 25 each. The number at pre- sent attending the academy is about 347. The fees in the rec- tor^s classes are 10s. 6d. a quarter, for each of the branches taught by him ; for Latin, 7s. 6d.; when Greek is taught along with Latin, it is 5s. additional; writing 6s. and with arithmetic 7s.; English, 5s. In the country part of the parish, there is a school under the ma- nagement of the kirk-session, the teacher of which has a school- rrxim, a dwelling-house and garden, with L. 2 of salary. The numlier attending it is about 80. There is a free school from a mortification by Miss Stratton, in which 42 boys and 35 girls are taught. The salary of the male and female teachers is the inte- rcut of L. 900. There is another free school founded by Mr David White, late merchant in Montrose, in which 100 scholars are taught The teacher's salary is L. 36, with dwelling-house and gar- den. In these two schools, the pupils pay no fees Two years ago, the trades erected a school of two departments, one for English, the other for writing and arithmetic. The teachers in these schools have no salaries. At last examination the number attending the Eng- lish school was 160, and those at the school for writing and arithme- tic, 80. In last autumn, an infant school was opened, and is attended by about 130. In addition to these, there are upwards of twenty pri- vate schools, male and female, attended by about 700 children. Although it cannot be said but that the means of instruction are within the reach of all, and although there are some who can neither read nor write, in consequence of the carelessness of pa- rents in neglecting to avail themselves of these means, yet there is still a want of public schools for a class who do not altogether stand in need of gratis teaching, but who cannot afford to pay the fees charged at any of the public schools. A private teacher is often constrained to teach in a small inconvenient room, unfavour- able to both the health and the progress of the children, and when he obtains a better situation his scholars are dispersed and forced to seek instruction elsewhere. Besides, in a moral and religious point of view, it is of great consequence that the teachers of so large a proportion of our youth should be so appointed and superintended, as to be ever kept in mind of the responsibility of their situation. Many of the teachers have evening schools for the benefit of such as have to work during the day ; and in this respect, the late Act of Parliament, shortening the time at the spinning mills, has beeii MONTROSE. 287 found to be very beneficial, — many of the young people who work at the mills attending these schools after working hours. The teachers of the free schools are bound to teach on Sabbath evening, and, besides these, there is a number of other Sabbath schools. The total number of children attending school is 1634 — after deducting 40 who attend both teachers of the Trades' School. Libraries. — A public Library was established in 1785, and con- 4;ains, along with many ephemeral publications, a fair collection of standard works in divinity, histor}', and literature. The subscrip- tion is a guinea a year; the number of subscribers is upwards of 100 ; and the number of volumes about 7000. There is a library belong- ing to the Montrose Reading Society, the subscription to which is 4s. 4d. annually, and which contains a pretty extensive collection of books. The session has a parish Library, consisting chiefly of re- ligious books ; and there is one of the same kind connected with the chapel. Lunatic Asylum^ Infirmary^ and Dispensary. — In 1779, the at- tention of the magistrates and of the influential persons of the town and neighbourhood was directed towards the importance of having a proper place for the confinement of lunatics, and for the reception of sick and diseased persons, in indigent circumstances. Contribu- tions were raised, and a building erected for the accomplishment of these purposes. The building having been repeatedly enlarged since then, is now extensive and commodious, and stands in a healthy and well-aired situation. In 181 1 a Royal charter was obtained for the institution. Its affairs are conducted by 50 managers. The provost and first bailie, and the two parish ministers, are ex officio managers. Of the others, thirty are required to be inhabitants of the burgh, eleven landed proprietors, and five clergymen of parishes in the neighbourhood. Besides a keeper and matron, there is in the house a resident medical superintendent In connection with the Infirmary and Dispensary, the town is divided into six districts, the poor in which are visited by six of the medical practitioners. From the report laid before the last annual meeting, it appears that there were then in the house 65 lunatics, and that in the course of the preceding year 1 1 had been discharged cured ; that in the infirmary, there were then 12 patients ; that during the year, 58 had been discharged cured, and 15 relieved ; and that 489 out-door patients had received advice and medicines. The institution hav- ing been originally erected as a charitable institution, by means of subscriptions, several lunatic patients from the parish of Montrose FORFAR. T 288 FORFARSHIRE. are admitted gratis, and some from the neighbouring pariaiicg at the reduced rate of L*. 12 a-year. There is a Society io the town for the relief of the destitute sick, supported by subscriptions and donations; the expenditure of which, in 1834, was L. 123, 14s. There is also a Society for the re- lief of indigent females. Friendly Societies. — Previous to the act passed a few years ago re- lative to Friendly Societies, there was a considerable number of these institutions in this place. The greater part of them, alarmed by the difficulties they apprehended in conforming to the enactments of that statute, have since been dissolved. Material injury has thus been done to many who trusted that in their dechning years they, with the aid to which they were entitled from that source, would have been enabled to avert the necessity of applying for parochial relief. The small dividends received by the members will soon be exhausted, and there is reason to fear an increase of pauperism even more rapid than hitherto. Saving Banks. — A Savings Bank was established here in April 1815, and has been continued ever since; and although it has been very useful to many, yet it has not proved sufficiently beneficial to that class it was intended to serve, nor do they seem to appreciate it The depositors are chiefly female servants, and industrious trades- men who are possessed of small sums under L. 10 ; the deposits, when they exceed that sum, being transferred to the other banks. There are few who make weekly or monthly payments agreeably to the intention of such institutions. There are at present 318 de- positors, and the amount belonging to them is L. 1307, which is lodged with the Montrose branch of the National Bank of Scot- land. There is also a Sarings bank connected with one of the spinning mills, for the accommodation of the labourers employed in it. Poor Funds. — The ordinary income and expenditure of the session for 1834 is as follows : — Expenditure* Monthly pensioners, 263, L. 273 d Occasional supply at ses- sion meetings, 229, - 25 16 1 Weekly pensions, 141, - 625 3 6 Pensioners residing in other parishes, - - 72 14 Lunatics, - - 40 16 10 Poors' coffins, - - 11 16 Salaries, minister's stipend, &c 40 16 8 Sundries, - - 47 13 7 L. C40 4 34 L. 1137 19 8 Income, Collections in the church and chapel, - L. 291 5 114 Mortcloth and burials, - 42 10 74 Rents of land and church scats, 273 4 54 Grave-stones, 2 8 7 Donations, 15 2 1 Pensioners* effects. 4 1 1 Penalties, 1 Sundries, 10 11 6 MONTROSE. 289 From the above statement, it will be seen that the ordinary ex- penditure of the session greatly exceeds its income. The de- mands upon the funds have of late been rapidly increasing. In order to meet them, and, if possible, to avoid the necessity of hav- ing recourse to a compulsory assessment, — an evil to be deprecated in any case, and which may eventually be rendered altogether un- necessary, when the prospects there are of considerable additions to the funds for the support of the poor in this place shall be rea- lized — the inhabitants have with great propriety agreed to a vo» luntary assessment, for the present year, of sevenpence a-pound upon the house rents. By the sum which this, if levied, will amount to, the session will be enabled to meet the demands upon it without increasing its debt One great cause of the increase of pauperism in towns is the shortness of the time requisite for acquiring a legal settlement Many men, with their families, after they are unable for the heavy work in the country, come to the town, and contrive, as day-labourers, to support themselves for a few years, when they find it necessary to apply for parochial aid. The dissolution of the Friendly Societies already referred to, and the unnecessary in- crease of public-houses, have also tended to increase the demands upon the session funds. Besides the funds under the management of the session, there is the Hospital Fund, consisting of certain lands and teinds granted to the town of Montrose by King James VL, 1587, out of church lands annexed to the Crown. From that fund, which is under the management of the town-council, monthly pensions are paid to a number of poor people. The sum divided last year was L. 160. From the guildry funds small collections are made to decayed bur- gesses, and to the widows of such. Martificaiions. — The family of Hedderwick mortified a small sum to the poor at large, both in the town and country parish, and another to purchase for the poor in the country parish Bibles and New Testaments. There are several sums of mortified money, the interest of which is annually divided by the trustees, who' are generally some of the magistrates and the ministers : — Miss Stratton's fund, the interest of L. 900 to 10 poor gentlewomen ; Mrs Innes' do. the interest of L. 1000 to 10 poor widows; Mr White's do. the inte- rest of L. 800 to 20 householders ; Bailie Auchterlony's do. the interest of L. 560 to the poor in general ; Miss Mill's do. the in- terest of L. 467; Miss Graham's do. the interest of h. 100; Mr 290 FORFARSHIRE. Frazer's do. the interest of L. 500 ; Mr Mill's do. the interest of L. 1000; Provost Christie's do. the interest of L*. 100; Mr Cooper's do. the interest of L«.50. John Erskine, Esq. of the parish of St James, in the county of Cornwall, Jamaica, left by his will, dated October 1786, the sum of L. 2000, the annualrent of which was to be applied, by trustees named by him, for the be- nefit of ten poor families, with three children each ; and also the sum of h, 3000, the annualrent of which, after paying L. 50 to an additional teacher in the grammar-school of Montrose, was to be divided among eight poor boys, who had lost one or both their parents, to attend said school. In 1801, the trustees laid out the above sum in the purchase of land, — a transaction which has proved highly advantageous to the charity. Last year, after paying the L. 50 to the teacher, each of the eight boys upon the charity re- ceived L. 17, 4s., and each of the ten families L. 12, 12s. The male heirs of the testator are patrons. Inns. — There" is one good Inn in the town. The number of persons licensed to sell spirits is about 130 ; and here as elsewhere we have often cause to complain of the demoralizing effects which the facility of procuring ardent spirits has upon the people; much of the poverty and wretchedness which exist, and a great propor- tion of the CfOscs requiring parochial relief, may be traced to that source. Fml. — The fuel used is coal. In the dwelling-houses, almost universally English coal, in the public works a great deal of Scotch coal in coriHumed. General Observations. Sinci; last Te\wri of the parish, the population has been doubled ; while the church accommodation, even then too scanty, has been increuMMl only about one-half; the tonnage of the shipping has \HSim more than trebled ; the exports and imports have increased in a Htill greater ratio; the manufactures have been almost entirely creatmmunion cups was also presented to the parish, and bears this inscription, — ^^ Ex dono Eliz. Smith, in usum parochias de Oathlaw, 17B9/' Kducatian. — Hie parish school is the only one in the parish. The branches commonly taught are, reading, writing, arithmetic, I^tin, and ge^igraphy. The salary is the maximum, L. 34, 4s;. 6d. and theamount of school fees may at present be about L. 1& llie Utwtthar has rather more than the legal accommodation. The general exi)ense of education per year may be about 15s. There are dmparatively few between 6 and 15 years of age unable to read or write, and fewer still above that age. There is no part of the |Mirif»h so distant as to prevent attendance, and no additional schools are re<|uired. The people are in general very much alive to the be- nefits of elatid*s History of the Druids. FORFAR. Y 328 FORFARSHIRE. profit, 100 ; undivided common, 90 ; and about 15 acres of Scotch fir. JRent of handy ^c. — The average rent of an imperial acre of cul- tivated land is about L. 2 SterUng. The price of grazing an ox or cow L. 2, and if kept through the winter on turnips and straw, L. 2 more. Sheep may be pastured for the year at L. 7 per score. The cattle are the pure Angus breed, and the black-polled. On > one farm, the Angus is crossed with the Teeswater breed, which makes them much stronger, more valuable, and fit for the butcher one year sooner. The state of husbandry is not inferior to that of any in the country. Two successive grain crops are never taken with- out a fallow or green crop intervening. The duration of leases is nine- teen years. The farm-steadings are in general very indifferent. Some of them, however, are undergoing repairs. Except on the farm of Arbikie, there are few fields in the parish that are inclosed ; the land being better adapted for grain than pasture. Inclosures would, no doubt, be highly beneficial, and if the farmer had less discourag- ingTprospects than he has, owing to the depressed state of the grain markets, these and other improvements would be made, which would mutually benefit the landlord and tenant. At the influx of the Lunan into the sea, and along the sea coast, salmon-fishing, by means of stake-nets, is carried on very success- fully. Produce. — The total value of the annual produce of grain raised in the pariah may be estimated at . L 4160 Potatoes and turnips. Hay and pasture, .... Flax, Gardens, .... Fisheries, ' .... L. 6,394 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-^oums. — The market-towns are Montrose and Arbroath, the former at a distance of four, and the latter of eight miles from the greater part of the parish. Means of Communication^ ^c. — The nearest post-oflice is that of Chance Inn, in the neighbouring parish of Inverkeilor. There are six publilj coaches that pass through the parish, each lawful day, — three to the south, and an equal number to the north. The coast road to Edinburgh, on which these coaches pass, intersects the parish. The other roads are maintained by the statute labour, and are, in general, well adapted to the wants of the population. 824 910 a 40 40 420 LUNAX. 329 There is no public-house in the parish, — a circumstance upon which we have good grounds to congratulate ourselves, if we consi- der the demoralizing effects which low ale-houses uniformly produce in other quarters. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated at the south-eastern g atr e mity of the parish, and would be very inconvenient for the great majority of the population, if the parish were not a small one. None of the parishioners, however, are more than two miles from the church. This fabric is very ancient There is no authentic account of its date. The manse was built in 1 783^ and repaired and enlarged in 1827. It stands on an elevated situation, about a mile to the north- east of the church. The extent of the glebe is 8.25 imperial acres. Its value may be estimated at L. 15 per annum. The stipend is 90.25 bolls of grain, L.d5, 7s. lid. in money, and (this being one of the small livings) L. 44, 10s. dd. from Government. There is only one Dissenter in the parish. The number of heads of families attending the parish church is 43^ and the average number of communicants is 158 ; but nearly 30 of these are from the neighbouring parishes. The amount of collections yearly, on an average of the last se- ven years, is L. 18, 4s. lid.; and for religious and charitable objects about L. 3, — a sum by no means small, considering the number and the nature of the population, which is entirely agricultural. Education. — The parish school has been found quite sufficient for the education of the parish, and is, at present, filled by a very efficient teacher. It is attended by about 60 scholars. The branches of education are those usually taught in parish schools ; and the fees for reading are 10s. ; reading and writing, 125.; and when arithmetic is combined, 16s.: the languages or mathematics L. 1 per annum. The salary of the schoolmaster is L. 31, including an allowance for a garden, and the school fees may amount to about L. 25 an- nually. It is believed that there are none in the parish above nine years of age, who cannot read and write with more or less accuracy. David Jamieson, a farmer in the parish, bequeathed, many years ago, 2000 merks Scots, one-half of the interest of which to go to the poor's funds, and the other half to the schoolmaster, for the education of six poor children. The kirk> session have lately appropriated the annuity of 6s. 8d. left by Mr Peddie's widow, for the purpose of forming a parish li- brary. 330 FORFARSHIRE. Savings Bank. — There is also a savings bank oonneoied with that of Inverkeilor. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The numb^ of iDdii^uals aHpran sent on the poor's roll is 10, and the average sum^ alloltod |q ea 46. lid. Ml«CBLLANBOU6 OBSSRVATfO^S. The rapid improvements, in. agricultiire that have- taJieii pbioe^ within the last forty years, bav/e considerably changed) the aspeel of the country. The Long serpentine, high ccowned ridges, so. uninemal undti the ancient mod& of husbandry^ have entirely, given place. to* tba straight, level, and well-formed ridge of modem agriculture. The old system of knoll and natural pasture, so hostile to tbe graas crop, and ruinous to the land, is nowhere to be met. with,, bub in the shape of noxious, weeds torn up with the harrow, and: laid out to rot for the purpose of manure. In the day« of our. fathen«^nfOv^ grass and clover were almost unknown ; and even when, they came to be used, it was some time before the old prejudice in favour of the natural grass would allow the farmer to make trial of them.. It is only within the last forty or fifty years, that the change hasbeiBn completely and happily effected. The farmers are now. every where alive to the modern syfiteoLof agriculture, so that it may be said with truth, the present is the age ^' where two blades of grass have been made to grow, where only one grew before." And it surely affords.no small proof of the rapid improvement in this branch of human industry to know, that, while the value of agricultural produce is, at present, much the same as it was forty years, ago, the fanners live in & style of comfort unknown to their forefathers, and that the finest fields, in the parish have^ within that period, increased their rental from ids. to Lb 3 per acre. Qot while such has been the universal improvement in agricuL ture, and, we may add, of society in general, it is a subject of deep regret, that comparatively little attention has. been paid to the bumble abodes of the poor, and the often comfortless habitations of the cottagers. Scotland, in this respect, is very far inferior to England. It is in vain that we look for the neatly white-washed LUNAX. 331 cottages, with roses and evergreens encircling their doors and win- dows, with the small but tasteful cottage garden in front, which is often to be met with, and so universally admired in England. And why should this be the case ? It is generally, though very errone- ously, ascribed*to the halnts and tastes of the Scottish peasantry. Itjs urged, that,*^although they had cottages not inferior to those in England, they have neither the taste nor the inclination to keep them in pro|)er order. From experience we cati contradict the truth of this statement, and we think it hard to cast a stigma up- on a whole nation, and ungenerous to pass this sweeping condem- nation, without giving them a fair trial. It were surely but justice to give them cottages neat and tottifortable^ and then to wait for the itsi]io» llie oottagts, at present, are, in general, incapable of being rendered either comfortable for the cottager, or a pleasing spectacle to the beholder ; nor can We hope for any great improve- ment, till the proprietors of land begin to take some interest in the matter. Of late years, our farm-houses have been very much improved, and farm steadings have been rendered commodious and iKeful) and in many instances, have been finished with much ele- gance and taste. But, amid improvements so general and useful, the cottage of the poor man has hitherto, with few exceptions^ te^ muned in its pristine state of wretchedness and want of coknfbrt. Would it not be for the mutual benefit of the proprietor and far- mer, aa it would mightily add to the comfort and happiness of the cottager, were the proprietor to build two or three neat, commo- dious cottages upon every large farm, with a small portion of gar- deb ground attached to each ? — the farmer to hold them in pos- i^esdion, and to keep them in repair during the currency of his lease, Md pay the proprietor a small per centage for the outlay of capi- tal, which Would amount to vei*y little. Three good subtantial cot- tages (the farmer to drive the carriages) might b& built for some- what less than L» lOO. This sum laid out on each exti^nsive farm, and g^aduaHy till the whole were completed^ would be no great slicrifioe to the landlord, while it would give a degree of comfoft to out 5ottage peasantry, wjiich it seldom falls to their lot to eit- perience* The cottages in Scotland have ever been proverbial for want of neatness and comfort. It is hoped that this stigma will not much longer i^est upoh our country. September 1886. PARISH OF ARBIRLOT. PRESBYTERY OF ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. THOMAS GUTHRIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Namcy Extent^ ^c. — Arbirlot seems to be a contraction of Aberelliot, the ancient name of this parish, which refers to the circumstance, that the river Elliot here enters the sea. The pa- rish is about 4 miles long and 3 broad, and is bounded on the south by the sea ; on the east by the parish of Arbroath ; on the west by the parish of Panbride ; and on the north by the parish- es of 8t Vigeans and Carmyllie. Topographical Appearances. — A considerable portion of the pa- rish consists of what may be called flat land, and the rest has a gradual elevation, not attaining such an altitude as to deserre being called hilly. The extent of sea coast is betweoQ two and three miles; and along its whole length, the shore is flat and sandy, affording excellent bathing ground to considerable numbers, who come here during the bathing season. Hydrography. — There is a chalybeate spring in the parish, of some little celebrity, though it is not now so much frequented as formerly. The Elliot is a stream which rises in Dilty Moss in the parish of Carmyllie ; from thence it pursues a south-easterly course, and after being joined by two or three smaller streams, it falls into the sea in the east part of the parish. Mineralogy^ Sfc. — The strata dip to the south ; the rocks are red sandstone and trap, containing considerable quantities of rock- crystal. The soil, though on some farms clayey, generally con- sists of a light rich loam lying on gravel; this applies to the lower parts of the parish. In the higher and northern parts again, the soil is wet and moorish ; and on the borders of Carmyllie, which bounds the parish on the north, there is a considerable extent of land still in a state of muir. Since the erection of some dam dikes, ahnost no salmon have been found in the Elliot. The only tish now caught in that stream ' A ARBIRLOT. 333 are common river trouts, and, though these are not numerous, they are large. Plantations. — There is very little wood in the parish. The grounds of Kelly, which were at one time so highly ornamented with beautiful trees, are now almost bare. There is one splendid tree still remaining beside the old castle ; it is a plain-leafed holly of great size, and believed to be of great age. II. — Civil History. lAind'-awner. — Lord Panmure is sole proprietor of the parish. Parochial Registers, — The oldest parochial register begins about the year 1640. • Antiquities. — The castle of Kelly, which stands upon a high rock that rises from the bed of the Elliot, had been at one-time a place of considerable strength, and is a very ancient building. It is now un- inhabited, though it cannot be said to be in a state of ruin. Before it came into the possession of the Panmure family,nt belonged to tbe Inrines of Drum. These Irvincs succeeded a family of the name of Ochterlony, and, according to tradition, it was by one of the Ochterlonies, a proprietor of Kelly, that the ancient abbey of Ar- broath was burned at some period prior to the Reformation. / Arrow heads made of flint, — or elf-arrows, as they are called, have been found, in considerable numbers, in the parish. Modtm Buildings. — The only mansion-house in the parish is the modern house of Kelly, which stands near to the old castle. On the Elliot, there are three meal mills, and one on a stream which is the boundary between Arbirlot and Panbride. ITiere is also a flax mill upon the Elliot, and close by the mouth of this stream, at a place called Wormy-hills, there is a work for bleach- ing yams. III. — Population. In the year 1755, the population was 865 1790, . . . 1055 1821, . . . 1062 1831, . 1026 Of these 1 026, there were 62 males engaged in weaving, and perhaps as many females. There is one blind person in the parish. Character of the People. — On this head, it is enough to observe, that there are few country parishes where the Sabbath is so well, and none, to the writer's knowledge, where it is better, observed. Poaching does not prevail. Many years ago, smuggling of foreign goods was carried on to a considerable extent, but now there is 334 FORFARSHIRE. no such thing. It is said thajtihe foreui^ n(ierch^t8 did npt receke ▼ery regular remittances, and that this, with the low price of whisky, and establishment of tjbe coast guard» stopped the trade of smug- gling on the east coast of Scotland. During the last three years there were r day-labourers, men, )s. 6d., and women, 8d.; for wrtiT sans per day, 23. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. About pne-r third of the leases are still for life, as they sji w^^e at one tim0» These liferents account for thp low average rent pf la^d in tbia parish. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised io the parish is Abou( 2000 boUs of wheat, L.dOOO 2658 bariey, . 3189 6769 oat9, .6144 920 peas and beans, 240 2) rye, . . 16 ^20Q potatoes 1224 925 acres turnips, • 1200 ^ hay, . . 1089 L. 15,102 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-town^ Means of Communication^ 8^c. — Arbroath, the suburbs of which reach almost to the east end of the parish, is the market-town. There are two small villages in the parish, one of them at the church, the other called Bonnyton, about two miles west of it In this parish there are four or five miles of turnpike road between Arbroath and Dundee, on which three or four eqaches run daily. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church, which is a very handsome building, is convenient for the greater part of the parishioners. The church was rebuilt about three years ago, when nearly 200 additional sittings were provided. It affords ac- commodation for 639 people, but contains no free sittings. The ABBIRLOT. 335 old cWch wsi$ ^lEted »t tixe enpeose ot the £ftnnens^ and its seate beiog used for the new ooe, the fanners oonsider themseh^es pro- prietors of the seats, and entitled to charge rent for the same ; and rents somie of them do charge. The aisle, which contains most of ihe additioaal sijtlings inentioned above, was buiU «t the expense Ung, Auchterhouse, and Newtyle ; oti the west, by Nevay and Es** sie ; on the north, by Airlie and Kirriemuir ; and on the east^ by Forfar and Kinnettles. The climate is now dry and early, over all the lowef portioDs of the parish, — the extensive drainage of the swamps and mosses which has taken place, of late years, having had a great effect ia its im*- provement. Agues, which formerly prevailed, and other complaints attendant upon a damp moist atmosphere, have now disappeared ; and the harvest is within a few days of being as early as along the coast side. Hydrography. — The Loch of Forfar is within the parish, and once extended to nearly 200 imperial acres, but was reduced, sixty years ago, by drainage, to about one-half the extent It is supplied chiefly by powerful springs, contiguous, and partly within itself and forms the head of the water of Dean, which flows westerly, draining Strathmore into the river Isla, and thence into the Tay ; it is the principal water in this quarter of the district, and is joined by three tributaries within the parish, 6rst by Ballandarg burn, from Kirriemuir on the north ; second, by the Kerbet water, from Kin* nettles on the south-east ; and third, by the Olammiss bum, from Seidlaw on the south, which flows down its centre. But the De- noon bum, also within the parish for some distance, leaves it be- fore its junction on the west. The united waters form a deep slug- gish stream, from twenty to thirty feet in width, and from one to six in depth, — much of it being nearly stagnant. The mineral wells are merely some weak chalybeates, and none of any celebrity. The soil along the flat division of the parish, on the north side of the water of Dean, consists chiefly of light gra- GLAMMISS. 339 velly and sandy loams, with a few portions of clay and a consider- able quantityof moss^^in the hollows surrounding the sandy and gra- icelly swells^, — the greater part of this division being of indifferent quality, notwithstanding its fine locality in the centre of the strath.. Along tli« side of the Kerbet water, and after its junction with the Deani, westerly along the south side of the latter,, there is some breadlli of fiat and deep alluvial brown loam of fine quality ; and> within the middle division, forming the rising grounds southerly, Ihere is a considerable extent of good soil along its centre^i — being black and brown loams incumbent on an absorbent bottom, and part-' bjr of very, fine quality,, but also intermixed, both above and below tbb central stsipe^ with damp inferior sanda,. and a mixture of day,. pm>?incially called mortar. Along the bottoms of the glens of Ogilvie and Denoon, there is also a fair proportion of sharp gravelly loams of good quality,* but defective in climate ; the hillsure mostly all of a moorish cast, and covered: with heath, unless some grassy swamps. The best soils contiguous to the village rent, in parks, at the rate ofl L. 3 per imperial acre, and downvmrds to L. 1. The average rent of. (arms nms from L. 1 to L. 1^ 10s. for the arable land ; but the rent of many o£them varies according, to the fiars prices of grain*. The size of farms ranges between 50 and 600 acres of arable land, with numerous possessions, chiefly from six to ten, held by manu&cturers and labourers. The woodlands, which are extensive, have been all planted ;. Bone are natural ;. the greater proportion are of larch, ^ruce, and Scotch fir, of seventy years and under. The park timber around* the castle is a century older, and is chiefly ash and elm, with some^ oak, birch, and other varieties. Some of the ash trees measures li5 feet in girth, and contain 200 cubic feet of timber; Much of the largest of the larch and spruce have been of late cut. away, for the behoof of the hard- wood. Some of them measured) 60 and 70 cubic feet of timber,, and a fewof that size still remain. The chief natural production of the lower portion of the parish^. where the soil is inferior, and not under cultivation, is broom with) heath ; and in the mosses there is heath with a mixture of ooarse. aquatic grasses ; the wood found in them is birch, al- der, and hazel, with some oak, but no fir, or very little Along; the faogber grounds at the foot of the glens, there is at places a o^Bsidtfrable mixture of whins amongst the broom, which stretch upon the flanks of the Seidlaw, the higher summits of which are 340 FORFARSHIRE. covered with heath, and very Httle mixture of grass, unless in swamps and sides of bums. The wild raspberry is common, but the bramble is very rare, although common in some other quar- ters of Strathmore. Botany. — Although there is no particularly rare plant lunring its locality in the parish, yet the dens and raiiDes afford a very rich and varied display of flowers during the season, in particular of the avens, geranium, anemonies, &c &c ; and the mftrshes along the Dean, of the yellow water-lily and others. Among the more rare plants, may be noticed the Orobus sylvaticus. Mineralogy. — The minerals consist chiefly of different beds of the oldest sandstone formation which flanks the Grampians, — the lowest of which are of a gray colour, and underlie all the southern side of the parish, from a line crossing it a short distance north- wards of the village, and form the Seidlaw range. Their direction is from the north-east to the south-west, and they dip very uniformly to the north-west, usually at an angle be- tween ten and twenty degrees. Along the northern side, in the centre of the strath, they are over- laid with beds of a dark brownish- red colour, having a conform- able direction and dip ; they are the newest beds in Strathmore, but yet much older than the coal, and hence there is none of that use- ful mineral in the district ; neither is there any limestone, beyond occasional nodules, within the sandstone and veins of calcareous spar. The grey beds of sandstone are occasionally overlaid with trap or whinstone, forming the summits of the rising grounds, and at others much disrupted with dikes and veins of it, having great va- riety in their mineral character, but not productive of agates ; and such as are to be found are very coarse. There are, however, occa- sionally beautiful quartz crystals in these rocks, in the Seidlaw district. The mineral character of the sandstone beds varies from coarse conglomerate or puddingstone, through the intermediate stages down to calmstone, which consists of impalpable powder, and when exposed to the weather, decompose into clay. The pebbles and grains are not crystallized, but are water-worn and conglutinated together by a paste of calcareo-ferruginated mat- ter, and are of great variety, the most abundant being brownish-red quartz, and a species of hornstone. Porphyry, jasper, Lydianstone, GLAMMISS. 341 are also to be found, and occasionally serpentine ; but granite and other compound rocks of the immediate Grampians are very rare. The conglomerate beds, as also those of calm, are turned to no practical use; and when they occur in the quarries, are thrown aside as rubbish. The intermediate beds afford valuable building mate- rials of all descriptions, as well as pavement and slates, and are ex- tensively wrought for these purposes. There is one quarry close upon the village, long known for the excellent millstones it pro- duces, some of which are exported : the stone having also the quality of withstanding the effects of fire, is in much request in Dundee and elsewhere, for oven soles. The beds of slate, which are thin grey flags, are in the Seidlaw district, and have at some very remote period been very extensive- ly wrought, both in this and the adjoining parishes, much beyond what the wants of the immediate country, inclusive of Dundee, could have required ; it has therefore been suggested, that the old town of Edinburgh and others in the Lothians might have had^ at that period, a supply from this quarter. These beds, by being now wrought deeper, produce the pavement so well known by the name of Dundee or Arbroath pavement. The whinstone affords excellent materials for roads, and is ex- tensively wrought for that purpose. Some veins of lead ore were wrought about sixty years back, but were abandoned as not being worth the expense. The mines are close upon the east end of the village, where the remains of them are still to [be seen ; the veins cross the burn, and traverse the grey sand- stone, andare accompanied with sulphate of barytes. Traces of car- bonate of copper are also occasionally to be met with in the trap rockfl of Seidlaw, but to no great extent. Shell marl is found along the northern side of the parish, with- in some of the mosses, and particularly in great abundance in the loch of Forfar, which was partially drained for the purpose sixty years ago. The drained portions having been very much exhausted, it has for many years been dredged up from below the water, by an apparatus attached to a boat, and many thousands of pounds of this useful manure have been obtained out of this loch. Of late years, however, it has been much less in request, partly owing to the greater part of the lands having been repeatedly marled, and partly from the depressed state of agriculture. Among the grey sandstone beds, impressions of plants and scales 342 FORPAltdHIRE. of fishes have been long observed ; and* of late yeans^ two entm specimens of a non-descript fish, besides various imperfect portions^ have been obtained ; one out of the millstone quarry, and another out of the quarry a short distance to tAie eastwwnd of it^ at Thom^ ton. They have always been enveloped in the solid portion of the rock, and not in the fissures. Similar fishes have been found in other quarries in the district^ but are very rare, and nt>ne of them so per- fect specimens as the two found here. The first one was got at* Thornton upon the splitting up a block into two rybats in- ISBl,- when a section of a fish was exposed in each of them^ from the nose* to the tail, along the centre of the back bone, as if it had been cut up purposely by a lapidary's wheeL The block was taken out of the bottom of the quarry, thirty feet down in solid rock. The second was found, two years afterwards, in the millstone- quarry, and was entire, the stony envelope having been removed ofi* its back in the breaking of a block. They were each about six inches in length, having a very large' head in the shape of a shield, with the eyes close together near the' centre, on the crown of it. Specimens of this curious fossil fish, which proves to be a spe- cies of a new genus, named by Agassis, fVom the peculiar sliape of its head, CephalaspiSy were, we are informed, many years ago» sent to Professor Jameson, and by him shown to the Wemerian Society of Edinburgh, Mr Lyell, Junior, of Kinordy, has also in- terested himself very much in bringing together specimens of the CephalaspiSy and M. Agassiz, we understand, intends figuring the Forfarshire animal flrom drawings of Professor Jameson's specimens, under the name Cephalaspis Lyelli^ in compliment to Mr Lyell, for'- the eminent services he has rendered to geological science. The im- pressions of plants are most numerous in the pavement beds, hav- ing the appearance of reeds and a clustered fruit, the points being star-shaped, something similar to that of the equisetacea when pressed flat Similar impressions, we understand, are not unfre- quently met with in the same formation in other parts of Scotland, and will be figured in Brongniart's great work on Fossil Plants, at present in the course of publication. There is also an impression frequently to be met with on the pavement, very like to that of an unshod colt's foot, and is proba- bly the impression of something organic Naturalists, however, GLAMMISS. 343 have been unable to come to any conclusion about it, although it is- also common in some parts of England. The whole of. these oi^nic remains are confined to the oldest or the grey beds of sandstone. No traces as yet have been found in the red beds, which are newer. Neither is there any in the clays or gravels which immediately overly the rocks, and underly the marl and moss ; but in both the latter, very large antlers of the red- deer are sometimes found, also tusks of the wild boar, and very large skulls and horn flints of the ox, and numerous shells of the fresh water testacea, — among which is ^e pearl mussel, also common in the Dean Water. All the sandstones and pebbles of the days and gravels are referable to the rocks of the district, or to the contiguous range of the Grampians. None have been transported furtfalBr, since the deposition of the conglomerate beds. But va- rious of the pebbles of the conglomerate beds, or rocks, are not to be found in any other locality, and do not belong either to the district or to the Grampian range. Zoology. — The wild animals found in the parish are the roe-deer, hares, and rabbits. The latter, at one period, were plentiful, and, after having been extirpated out of the district for many years, are now beginning again to appear. Foxes are also numerous. The badger occurs occasionally ; and otters are common at the Dean Water. Some pine-martins have also been killed, but they are rare ; polecats and weasels are common ; squirrels also are plentiful, though rare ten years ago. Among the feathered tribe, the cross-bill may be noticed as hav- ing appeared here since the introduction of the larch woods, upon the seeds of which they live. Black-cock are also becoming com- mon in Seidlaw, of late years. Grouse are not common ; partridge occurs in abundance, and pheasants occasionally. Jays are still very numerous ; and the drainage of swamps has in a great degree banished the wild goose, which seventy years ago was very com- mon along the Dean in winter. Pike of very large size and pendi are found in the loch of Forfar, and in the Dean ; and the trout of the Dean have been long famed for their fine quality; but it is remarkable that salmon do not enter it, although they cross the mouth of it, in passing up the Isla river. It may here be mentioned, however, that, fifty or sixty years ago, a solitary salmon was killed in the Dean. II. — Civil History. AntiqinHe8.^-'l!\ie Castle of Glammiss, a venerable, and majes- VORFAR . z 342 ^^4 .^ . "''** «»««■ '" ^^^ ^^ '^* angles, for a spiral staircase from ^jjitio^ ^ g„d of numerous small turrets on its top, with coni- f^tr<"^ ^ The wings were added, at the same time, by Patrick ^1 i^'^cj^thmore, who repaired and modernized the structure, ^ %0 direction of Inigo Jones. One of the wings has been * ted within the last forty years, and other additions made, **" J in harmony with Earl Patrick's repairs. * fhore is also a secret room in it, only known to two or at most three individuals, at the same time, who are bound not to reveal it, unless to their successors in the secret. It has been frequently the object of search with the inquisitive, but the search has been in vain. There are no records of the castle prior to the tenth cen- tury, when it is first noticed in connection with the death of Mal- colm II. in 1034. Tradition sourers, exceeding the number of those who come into it annually from other parishes. CABMLYIE. 361 good morals or to virtuous independence of spirit Christmas and New- Year's days, old style, are still kept as holidays by the gene- rality of the people, and convivial meetings are then held among friends and neighbours. The young men sometimes amuse them - selves with a wad or prize-shooting, on one or other of these days. Sometimes raffles take place of small ailicles. A few fires are still lighted on the Hallawe^en by the young people ; and some of the ancient spells are still practised at that time, not from any belief in their potency, but merely for the sake of amusement. The farm festival of harvest-home, or maiden play, as it is called, is still ob- served by some of the farmers at the close of their hai*vest labours. While the people of the more fertile and wealthy districts in the neighbourhood, were advancing in the career of improvement every way, the inhabitants of Curmylie, in their habits and dresses, re- mained, it should seem, like their soil, very much in the primitive state, and were, in consequence, superciliously denominated by their more polished neighbours, ^^ the bodies of Carmylie." Now, how- ever, all such peculiarities have disappeared, and all have partaken of the general improvement of the country. 1 he hodden dresses of home manu&cture are now exchanged for English cloths and cot- ton manufactures. A few blue bonnets of goodly extent among the old men, and a few tartan and scarlet plaids among the old women, are the only relics now to be seen of the holiday dresses of the last generation. A considerable change has taken place in the ordinary food, as well as in the clothing of all classes of the community. The use of tea and of wheaten bread is now common. About sixty years ago, there were, it is said, only two tea-kettles in the parish : now there is not, perhaps, a single house in it without one. Within the memory of some of the present generation, swine were kept only at mills, and an antipathy to swine's flesh was common : now there is scarcely a family without their pigs and bacon. Potatoes were then but little cultivated, now they form a considerable part of the maintenance of the labouring classes. Their usual food for break- fast is oatmeal porridge and milk ; sometimes tea, with oat-cakes and butter. Dinner frequently consists of pork and potatoes, sometimes fish, or preparations of milk ; and among the poorer clas- ses, sometimes potatoes chiefly. Tea in the afternoon is common, and potatoes for supper; but little small beer is used — the common beverage is water. The practice of tea drinking may refresh the wearied labourer at the close of the day ; but setting aside the ex- 3OT FORFARSHIRE. pense, it certainly does not tend to strengthen liini for his labours, like the home-brewed beer, formerly in use. The farm-servants who receive an allowance of meal and milk, and who are lodged in apartments separate from the fenn-house, called bothies^ cook their own victuals, which usually consist of milk-brose for breakfast, dinner, and supper. This bothie system^ so common at one time in the lowlands of this county, is but lit- tle prevalent in this parish ; and happily for the morals and man- ners of a numerous and important class of the conununity, seems rather getting into disuse. The social and substantial dish, and especial favourite of our forefathers ^^ the kail-brose of auld Scotland" is now in a' great measure unknown among the younger generation^ and very proba- bly the brose-bicker disappeared with the gudeman from the tabl^ head, when, in the progress of refinement, he ceased to preside at the family board, around which the whole household used to as- semble at meals, and where his presence and conversation produ- ced the most beneficial effects on the manners and morals of the domestics. The greater number of the agricultural population, being under an indulgent and liberal landlord, and various of them occupying under old leases, they enjoy in consequence a reasonable share of the comforts and advantages of society, and generally speaking, are con- tented with their situation and circumstances ; and if there be any of the parishioners less so, they are to be found chiefly amongst the ma- nufacturing classes, who are exposed to the fluctuations peculiar to their line of employment ; and yet these are far less felt in this quarter than in many other places, for several of the weavers rent small possessions of land ; others, when times are unfavourable to them, engage in farm labours ; and from there being always a con- siderable demand for labour at the quarries, those who are able and willing to work, seldom want employment Though the division of labour commonly observed among the agricultural part of the population, the unvarying task of the wea- vers, and the hard labour of the quarriers, be but little fiivourable to the acquisition of knowledge^ and though our distance from the colleges, and our vicinity to manufacturing towns, give but little taste for classical learning, yet the parishioners have all received an education suitable to their condition in life, and are on the whole as intelligent as their neighbours, and as can be reasonably ex- pected in their circumstances ; and considering their exemplary at^ CARMYLIE. 363 tendance on the public ordinances of religion, and their peaceable, industrious, and orderly conduct in private life, they may be justly characterized in general, as a moral and religious people ; and al- though it may not be affirmed that they are more so than their forefathers, yet there can be no doubt that they are less supersti- tious. Little credence is now given to stories of fisdries, ghosts, witches, and water-kelpies. Such legends have almost entirely dis- appeared.* IV. — Industry. Agriadiure, — According to the statement of the occupiers of the lands, there are in the parish, either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, 4159 acres Scots, exclusive of gardens. There are 734 acres Scots which remain constantly waste or in pasture, exclusive of a moss supposed to contain 200 acres, and of the ground occu- jMed by farm-steadings. About 200 acres might be added to the cultivated land of the parish, though not much more than the half of that number could be improved to any considerable advantage. Besides the moss alluded to, there are belonging to the principal heritor tracks of moor not annexed to any farm : their extent may be stated at not less than 100 acres ; and being connected with ex- tensive moors in neighbouring parishes, they are sometimes used for wintering sheep from the Grampians. Tliere are 335 acres of planted wood, consisting chiefly of larch, Scots, and spruce firs, with a proportion of the common kinds of hard-wood. Bent of Land. — The average rent of arable land in the parish is about 15s. l^d. per acre.-f- Nearly 1700 arable acres are occupied * In 1743, a reputed wizard was consulted by people in this parish as to the reco- very of stolen goods ; and so prevalent were such applications at that time in this 'neighbourhood, that the clergy thought it necessary to draw out an address on the subiect, which was i^pointed to be read in all the churches of the bounds. — Session ana Presbytery records. ^ In a copy of the chart ulary of (he abbey of Aberbrothock, which is in the li- tyrary at Panmure, it is stated, that, in 1485, a lease of the teinds of lands of the ba- rony of Carmylie, was granted to Robert Strachan and Janet his spouse, for the yearly payment of twenty merks Scots ; and that in 1 499, the lease was renewed to David Strachan for twenty-three merks Scots. Besides the money rent, some ser- vices were required from the tenant, as appears from the following extract from his lease : ** Volumus autem quod dictiis Robertus ubique locorum infra regnum Sco- ti« in nostra curia et in curiis successorum nostrorum equitet honeste ut decet in tempore quando ad hoc premonitus fuerit per nos aut successores nostros omnibus fraude et dolo et delatione post positis." ** Assedatio Gorbarum Decimalium Do- minii de Carmylie.** From the copy of the abbey rental formerly mentioned, it appears that, in the six- teenth century, the annual rent of the several lands now constituting the parish, amounted to 00 boUs of bear or barley, 160^ bolls of oatmeal, 80 bolls of horse com, and the teinds oAhe lands of Carmylie, amounting to L. 26, Ids. 4d. ; Guynd pro fir- mis, L. 4, 6s. 8J. ; pro rynmart, 6s. ; total, 31, ds. 8d. besides some poultry andcar- 'riages. 364 FORFARSHIRE. under long leases, let upwards of fifty years aga* A fulUgrown ox or cow may be grazed for the summer at L. 1, lOe., and may bt kept for the winter at L. 2, 10& or at L* 4 for the year. Wages. — The wages of farm-servants are from Lb 10 to L. 15 a-year ; of best servants from L. 14 to li. 10 a year, exclusive (if they lodge in bothies) of 6^ bolls of oat-meal, a Scots pint of un- skimmed milk, (sometimes a pint and a-half per day from the couh mencement of the seed-time till the end of harvest) 3 bolls of po- tatoed, (16 stones Dutch per boll,) and a certain allowance of fbeL But unmarried farm-servants frequently, and female servants copi- monly, are boarded and lodged in their master's house, and receive only money wages. Married men are generally preferred, who oo- cupy, at a certain rent, a house and kail-yard, and sometimes a few acres of land, the tillage of which is undertaken by their masters^ the house rent and expense of labour being reckoned as part of their wages. Female servants receive from L. 5 to L. 6 a year — a few L. 7, who are bound to assist at the lighter kinds of fiurm- work, such as turnips-hoeing, hay-making, &c» *(- There is a rent-roll at Panmure of the ** Lairdship of Canuylie,** and of other lands constituting neaily two-thirds of the paiish, for the year 1675 ;— a curious do- eumcnt, as shewing the varietT of articles then exacted in name of rent* as well as their prices at the time. Besides L. 2(i98, lOs. 8d. including teind and vicaragSi there were paid 2 bolls bear, stated as sold for L. 7 Scots per boll ; 134 ^^ of mMl at L. 4. 3s. 4d. per boll ; 3 bolls malt at L. 6 per boll ; 4 dosen capous at li. 4, lUs. per dozen ; 4 dozen hens at L. i), 10s. per dozen ; 28 dozen poultry at L. 2, lOs. per dozen; 7^ dozen ells of linen at L. 4 per dosen; U meat sheep at Li. 2, 13s. 4d. each ; 2 stones butter at L. ds. Cs. 8d. per stone ; 1 sow L.4; grease at JL.4per stone ; 17 gcrse at L. 8 per dozen ; 1 dozen chickens at L. 1, 4s. per dozen ; 14 spindles yarn at 16s. per spindle ; and 24 turses of straw. The price of wheat is thoo stated at L. 7 per boll. A cottage aad kail-yard were then rented at 1 dozen chick- ens a year, and some cottiiees puid only \i chickens a yeur. A small farm, which was let a lew years ago at L. 2(3 a year, was then rented at a sum now cqud to L. 4» *J%. 54(1* Sterling yearly. Valued rent of the whole parish, as per origind rent roll of 1683, L. 2281, Ids. 4d. Scots. In 1715, when the first augmentation of stipend was granted to the minister of Carmylie, the proven rental of all the lands of the pari&h, is stated in the account given into the Court at L. 'J62(), 19s. 4d. Scota. In 1757, rental of about threc-fuurlhs of the parish, (including L. 200 Scots as yearly rent of the Mains of Carmylie quarries) and value of kain fowls, amounted for that year to L. 3347, Os. 4d. Scots, the yearly reutal of which is at present not under L. IGOO Sterling, exclusive of quarries. In the last Statistical Account of the parish, the yeaily rental of it is stated at L. 1000 Sterling, and that it had risen one-third during the twenty years preceding. In l])Od, when the present 8ti])end was fixed by the Court, the annual rental of the parish is stated at L» 2074 Sterling. It is now upwoids of L. SOOO more than four- teen times its amount in 1715, * Since 1 }131 , the Icises of upwards of 500 of these acres have expired, and therent obtained under the new leases adds about Is, 6d, ])er acre to the average rent of ara- ble land in the parish. •f About eighty years ago, it was cu<«tomary for female- servants here, to receive, as part of their wages, a certain quantity of coarse grey woollen cloth, called Hodden, for CARMYLIE. 366 The usual hire of a plough of two horses and ploughman is Is. per hour employed, or 5s. per yoking of five hours. The mode of reaping * now commonly adopted in the parish is called ihreav^ ing. The farmer's cottars are bound to labour on these occasions : other hands are obtained in the parish, and sometimes from a dis- tance. . They receive dd. per threave of 24 sheaves, of a certain girth, for oats and barley, and djd. per threave for wheat of 28 sheaves, and sometimes an allowance in addition of milk and po* tatoes. An additional halfpenny per threave is allowed for bind- ing and stooking; but these operations are commonly performed by separate labourers, at 2s. per day with victuals, or 2s. 6d. without victuals. As thrashing-mills are not numerous in the pcuish, a good deal of our grain is thrashed by labourers, called &am-me;i, engaged for the season, who receive the twenty-fifth boll or part of whatever kind of grain is threshed, and two meals a day, when employed; or the twenty-first boll or part without victuals. We have only two corn-mills in the parish ; the seventeenth peck is paid for drying, grinding, and sifting. Common labourers and quarriers receive from Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. per day in summer, and from Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. per day in winter, without victuals. Labourers engaged for the year on days wages, receive about 9s. per week, without victuals ; — female labourers at tumip-hoeing, &c. receive 9d. per day without victuals. A wright receives 2s. a day besides victuals, f A mason from 2s. 4d. to 28. 6d. without victuals; a tailor Is. 2d. a day besides victuals; a wea- ver makes at present about Is. 6d. a day ; a journeyman smith's wages are 14s. a week without victuals, or from L#. 12 to L. 14 a year, besides victuals. Ditches and drains are generally done at a certain rate per rood of thirty-six running ells, according to their dimensions. Stone- dikers receive from lOs. to 1 Is. per rood of thirty-siK square ells* Wood And vrigbt work of a cart for 2 horses, L. 7« 7s. Do. including iron- work, - - 14 Wood and wright work of a common plough, L.l| Is. Do^ including iron- work, - - - 3 Wood and wright work of a pair of common harrows 15s. Do including iron- work, - - . 1 10 clothing, and of a coarse linen called Ham, for shifbi, — and from a document of that date, which I have lately seen, it appears that a ploughman's wages in this quar« ter were then L. 30 Scots a year; a carter's, L. 34 ; and a servant-maid's, L. 16, ex- clusive of board and lodging. * Sioec IQ3I, the oommon sesrthe has heen used in some instances fot tbiipiur- se. f A Wright's wages fifty years ago Were 8d. per day, besides victuals. 366 FORFARSHIRE. Wood and wright work of common roller, L. 3, Do, ineluding iron- work, L 7 Drill barrow for sowing turnips . 4 15 Barn fanners, - - 4 10 Thrashing mill of 6 horse power, - 150 Cart harness, bridles IDs. 6d. ; collar L. 1, 5s. ; saddle and breechin, L. 2 ; in all from L. 3 to L 5, Best harness for a pair of horses, - 10 4 shoes for a horse, iron- work and shoeing, - 3 Shoeing 1 horse for a year, iron and work, 10 A pair of stout shoes for a ploughman, - 110 A pair of lacing shoes for a do, - 15 PHces of wood.—- Yellow American Pine per cubical foot, 12 0. Norway pine per do, - •024 Hard-wood per do, from 2i. 6d. to - 3 Price of Slates per 1200, . 4 10 Price of pavement per superficial foot, from Id. to 3 Pl-ice of thick pavement rock suitable for steps, columns, &c per do from 6d.to - - - 2 Price of lime shells per boll of two imperial barrels, . Oj 2 6 Prices of iron.— Of British iron, per imperial stone Is. 2d. ; of best do per do •> - - 14 Of foreign iron per do. • 2 8 Price of butter per imperial lb. from 8d. to . 10 cheese per stone, from 7s* to - 8 of beef per imperial lb. from 6d. to - 6 or 6s. 6d. per imperial stone, of mutton per do do, - 6 of pork per Dutch stone, from 5s. to - 6 of veal per imperial lb., from 4d. to - 5 of hens from Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. a piece, - 18 of chickens, from 6d. to Od. each • 9 of eggs per dozen from 6d. to - - ^ 9 Live-Stock, — Before the green crop system of husbandry was in- troduced here, almost every farmer had a flock of sheep; but this prac- tice has been discontinued for many years, and though the attention of the farmer is now much directed to the raising of crops, it is nearly as much so to the rearing and grazing of cattle — as, in ordinary years, he depends for his profits as much upon the latter as upon the former. Every farmer rears a certain number annually, to keep up his permanent stock, and buys in whatever flying stock he may require to consume his pasture and turnips. Grass feeding of cattle is but little practised : numbers are sold off annually to be fed on richer pastures. The native breed of the county, so well known throughout the country, is most common. Considerable atten- tion has been paid, of late years, to improving the breed of the live- stock of the district, by the Eastern Forfeirshire Agricultural As- sociation. Husbandry. — Improvements in agriculture did not commence here so early as in the adjoining districts ; but since the beginning of the present century, these have made rapid progress, and the mode of agriculture now generally followed in the parish is not in- CARMYLIE. 367 ferior to tbat of the most improved districts, in consequence of which, and of the introduction of the earlier kinds of grain, our harvest is considered as, in orduiary years, about eight or ten days earlier than formerly. In the earlier stages of improvement, the application of marl was much practised ; but lime is now generally applied, which is procured from the Frith of Forth, and partly from Sunderland. Bone dust has been lately introduced in small quantities, for raising turnips, and with good effect. Owing to the nature of the sub- soil, the throwing down of the old ridges has not, in all cases, been an improvement More draining is required, and much of the old soil is buried out of reach of the plough, and some fields, in con- sequence, have scarcely recovered their former fertility. Great at- tention is paid, to lay the ridges so as not to retain the surface water, and to cut furrows in the hollows to carry it off. A regu- lar rotation of cropping is observed, so far as soil and season will permit. The usual rotation is as follows : 1. oats from ley ; 2. turnips and potatoes, and sometimes part fallow, with lime or dung or compost applied ; 3. barley or oats, with grass seeds, and wheat on the fallow where the soil answers, with grass seeds harrowed or rolled in in the spring ; 4. grass, part made into hay, and part in pas- ture ; 5. pasture. Oats form the most prevailing crop in the pa- rish. Formerly a species called shiocksj or black-oats, was much sown, and more lately what is called common oats; but now the po« tato oat has supplanted every kind. About 1^ boll is sown into the acre, and, in ordinary years, the boll yields about 17 pecks of meal. Considerable quantities of bear, here called Chester^ and of the coarser kinds of barley called branded and white barley, were for- merly sown ; and from their ripening earlier, and thriving on the poorer soils, they seem better suited to the parish than the English barley, now generally sown, which never attains the weight of the barley raised in the more fertile districts, seldom exceeding 52 lb. imperial per bushel. About a boll is sown into the acre. Though the soil in several quarters appears to be well adapted for the culture of wheat, yet there is not much sown in the parish, as it seldom comes to great perfection. The average annual produce of the grain sown in the parish, is about 5\ bolls per acre ; but the average quality is so inferior, that, in ordinary years, the price obtained for a boll of Carmylie wheat falls under the fiar price, about ds. ; for a boll of barley about 368 FORFARSHIRE. 2s. 6d. ; for a boll of oats Is. 6d. ; — a reduction which the new and certainly equitable plan lately introduced into our corn market, of buying by weight instead of measure, must tend still further to in- crease. A considerable extent of potatoes is planted, as they form a large proportion of the food of the labouring classes : pota- toes are also given to cows and horses, and a part is consumed by the pigs and the poultry. The culture of potatoes is well understood, and great pains are taken in pulverizing the clods, and in loosen- ing the soil around the plants when springing, with a three prongs ed instrument, called a clatt. The kinds commonly planted are the white and red kidney, a large round red kind, and the small American for the table. The quality is generally excellent Turnips are raised in considerable quantity. The white top, the red -top, and the globe, are the most common kinds. The Aberdeenshire yellow is also in general use, and is nmch esteemed. As the second crop of clover is now rarely so good as it was after the first application of lime, or marl, a proportion of tares or vetches is sown to supply its place, in the autumn. The fanners usually supply themselves with rye-grass seeds* From 1 to 2 bushels of it, with from 4 to 6 pounds red, and from 2 to 4 pounds white clover, are sown into the acre. Flax was formerly raised here in great quantities, as the soil in many places is thought to be well adapted to it ; but as this article can be procured by im- portation, at a cheaper rate, the sowing of it is now quite given up. The rents of the farms occupied under the old leases are paid partly in grain, and partly in money ; but the usual duration of the leases now granted is nineteen years, for a money rent only. And the rents under the modern leases are very moderate, and favour- able to improvement; yet they who occupy under the old leases, have in general carried their improvements farther than they either would or could have done, had they been less favourably situated. Farm Buildings^ — From the abundance of stones and slates in the parish, the farm buildings are, in most instances, substantially built and covered with slates; and not less than 1400 acres are inclosed and subdivided with stone fences, besides various other inclosures with whin hedge and ditch. Previous to 1770, various farms in the parish were, from the nature of the soil, " thought to be better adapted for pasture than for grain, and were occupied by farmers in the neighbourmg par rishes, as grazing farms (called out-rooms) for their cattle in the summer ; but ever since that time, the proprietors have obliged the cahmylie. 369 tsnuits to rettde in them." An unproved system of husbandry seems to have conunenced about that time, so that the ^* grain produced was increased fourfold in the course of twenty-six years thereafter." During the last thirty yeai-s, great additions have been made to the cultivated land of the parish, by cultivating wastes, drain- ing mosses, marshes, &c. ; the enclosures mentioned have been made, and almost all the wood has been planted. From the plan alluded to, of Lord Panmure's part of the pa- rish, it appears that, from 800 to 900 acres have been added since 1770 to thie cultivated land, upon that part ; and there is every reason to believe that, on the other parts of the parish, the acces- fion has been proportionably great. And while the parish in ge- neral, from the nature of its subsoil, requires much draining, it for- tunately abounds in the most suitable materials for this purpose ; an advantage which the tenantry have not failed to improve ; by which means, not only is its produce considerably increased, but its climate also is materially improved. The productiveness of its soil might indeed be still further increased, were it in the vicinity of a town where a supply of street manure could be procured ; but the price of that article in Arbroath (the nearest town) is so high, and the distance so considerable, that though this plan has been attempted, it is not likely to be followed out to any extent, or that it would be attended with any advantage sufficiently remunerat- ing- But improved as the parish is, and might still further be, in its soil, climate and productiveness, it must still continue, as is the case at present, inferior in these respects to most of the adjacent districts, owing to certain obstacles arising, not from any want of encouragement on the part of the landlord, nor of capital or skill on the part of the tenant, but from its high and exposed situation, and from its cold and retentive subsoil. Hence our spring opera- tions are retarded — the young grass is apt to be thrown out — vege- tation is late in commencing, never making much progress till to- wards the end of June : our harvest in general is about a fortnight later and therefore more precarious, and the quality of our grain, particularly of our wheat and barley, thereby considerably dete- riorated. Quarries, — Various quarries of excellent materials for common purposes, are worked in the parish ; but, so far as has yet been dis-* covered, the strata affording pavement and slates do not extend 370 FORFARSHIRE. beyond the range already mentioned, with the exception of some towards the north-western extremity of the parish. Though these have been quarried, for slates, for many years, yet it is only with- in the last thirty years that they have been worked for pavement to any extent * About sixty labourers are employed in them for the season. They are worked in the common way : as the seams which lay nearest the sur&ce consisted chiefly of slates, they have been mostly worked out The best pavement and slate strata can be split into plates of from 1 inch to 14 inches in thickness, for pave- ment, and of any portable dimensions, and of 1 inch to 1;^ inch in thickness for slates. The pavement is squared in the quarry. The slates are used in the neighbouring country. Upwards of thirty carts are employed in carrying the pavement to Arbroath, (at the rate of from 4s. to 6s. per 100 superficial feet,) where it is ship* ped for Leith, London, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and various other places ; that which is so well known by the name oi Arbroath pave^ ment being chiefly from this parish. The sales have increased considerably since the coast duty was taken oSl Pavement rock of a fine grain and of a bluish-colour, with a shade inclining to green, is found of sufficient thickness for stair steps of any size. It is also suitable for columns, balusters, and other archi- tectural ornaments. A stratum of light-coloured pavement is oc- casionally found, which is finely variegated with dark cloudy spots and veins, which, when polished and varnished, has a beautiful appearance, resembling dark-coloured marble, and answers well for chimney jambs, lobby tables, &c. The pumps required for drawing off the water from the quarries, are driven by windmills^ with moveable wooden frames."f- Produce, — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as stated by the occupiers of the several farms, exclu- * In the rental alluded to of I67^f no mention is made of the quarries. In 1739 Mr Garden of Troup, who then held the lands of the barony of Car- mylie in lease from the York Building Company, granted a sublease of the slate quar- ries on that barony (excepting those on the mains of Carmylie,) for 300 merks yearly. ^-Old Documents, At an after period, the tenants in their vicinity were allowed to quarry as they pleased, on their respective farms, upon their paying to the landlord a certain pro- portion of the value of the slates and pavement quarried. -f* Great difficulty has been experienced, for some time past, in getting rid of the water, which has increased in the principal quarry beyond the power of the common pump, owing to the increasing depth of the quarries from the dip of the strata. To remeidy this, a drain was commenced some years ago, at the distance of half a mile from that quarry, and has been pushed on at a great depth to within 400 yards of it, and a tunnel now in progress, 3^ feet in height, by about 3 feet in width, has been blasted for 180 yards of that disUnce, through a hard sandstone. It is a moat labori- ous and expensive operation, but will, when completed, effectually drain the quarries. CARMYLIE. 371 sive of produce of gardens and kail-yards, which cannot well be ascertained, the produce of the farms at present under grass being estimated as if they were under a regular rotation of cropping : Whest 782 boUs (county measure) at the average of the county fiars for the laat 10 years, and with the deduction per boll already mentioned, and stated in round numbers, . L. 997 Barley 1020 boUs at do. da do. 1788 Oata, 6348 bolls at do. do. do. 5683 Pease, 100 bolls at do. . . 186 Tiimips, 299 acres at various rates, per acre, as stated by the tenants, areraging from L. 4 to L. 5, • 1374 Potatoes, 126 acres at do. do. averaging from L. 7 to I^. 8, . 985 Pasture sown, 1532 acres at do. do. ; pasture natural and muir 1 19 acres at do. do. , 1941 Hay, 17370 stones at 8d. per stone, . . 579 L. 13483 Amount of sales from the quarries. Annual average amount of sales from the quarries belonging to Lord Pteimure for the years 1827-26-29, according to the statement of the derk, vis. Of pavements, . . . L. 2679 Ofslates, .... 172 Anmial average amount of sales from the quarries belonging to Alexander Smart, Esq. of Conansythe, for the last 8 years, according to the statement of the proprietor, . 400 3151 L. 16,634 There is another slate and pavement quarry upon the property of John Ouchterlony, Esq. of Guynd, which has not b«en worked for many years. Manufactures. — There are no spinning-mills in the parish. A considerable number of the population are employed in the weav- ing of coarse linens^ on account of merchants and mill-spinners in Arbroath and Dundee, from whom the yarns are obtained by car- riers weekly. Many families are supported, chiefly by this branch of manufacture. As the pavement quarries are not worked in win- ter, a few slates only being there raised when the weather permits, several of the quarriers having been bred to the loom, resume that employment, during that season. Since the year 1820 the spinning of flax by machinery has ra- pidly increased, in the neighbouring towns, and many of the young women have, in consequence, betaken themselves to weaving. This new employment for young women cannot be so conducive to health, as the ordinary labours of female servants ; and, in the event of their becoming wives, forms no good training for their management of household affairs. From^the increased number of hands employed in weaving, one very beneficial effect results, in the employment thus afforded to various old women in filling pirns, — the only work now left for them, since the improvements in machi* nery have rendered the gains at hard spinning, so very trifling. 372 FORFARSHIRE. V. — Parochial Ecohoiit. Means of Communication. — The nearest markelrtown is Ar- broath, which is about seven miles distant from the centre of the parish. The nearest post^ffice is at Muirdrum, a small village in the parish of Panbride, about four miles distant ; but our conunu- nication is chiefly with Arbroath. There is no tiim|ikg raai ni the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, though not in the cen- tre of the parish, is yet sufliciently convenient for the greater part of the population.* It is about 3} miles distant from the north- east extremity of the parish, and about 3 miles from the south-west extremity ; about 3^ miles from the western, and from the south- eastern extremities about 1^ mile; but the greater number of the population are only from 1 to 2 miles distant from the churdu It was built, probably soon after the erection of the parish ; but no date is to be seen. It is a substantial building of ashler work,^ is in good repair and decently fitted up. It aflbrds accoinmodaticHi for 500 sitters, but requires to be enlarged, as, from the increased po- pulation, there has been a considerable deficiency of church-room for some time past. The manse was built in 1820, and is substan- tial and commodious. The glebe, including the garden and site of manse and offices, and a mortification of about 7 acres, contains about 15 acres Scots.^ It is difficult to state the value of it very correctly, but I should think it not less than L. 30 annually. The stipend is one of the lowest class, and receives an addition of L. 31, 9s. 9d. Sterling, from the Exchequer, to make it up to L. 150 per annum, exclusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements.} * Tlie amount of ihe population in these })arts of the parish, which are more than two mileH diitUint from the parish church, is under 240. •f According to tradition, its erection is connected with an event of rare occurrence in modern tinien : the principal heiitor at that time became bankrupt, it is said, in coiisequenci' of his great exertions to have his parish church built in a superior man- ner. , X Previous to 1716, there wos no legal glebe at Carmvlie; but Uie |Mece of ground alluded to, which hwl been mortified, at an early period, by one of thie lairds of Car- mylie, for the encouragement of the mini&ter, was ])osse«ised by the iucumbeuts from time to time; but ui)on application to the presbytery by the incumbent in 1716» • glel)e and grass glebe were designed to the minister in the usual manner* from the adjoining lands, which have been possessed by his successors in office to the present time. $ About two- thirds of the stipend consist of money payments, viz. from Carmylie I^. 76, la. t2d. ; from lands in )>arish of Monikie, L. 2, 10s. ; from Exchequer L. 211 9s. tkl. Total, L 109, Os. lid. The other tliird consists of grain payments, payable at the fiar prices of the county, TIC. B. p* p. ' L. From Carmylie, bear, . 7 10^ Bear fVom various lands in the parish of Invsrkeiior 10 1 i. r. p. l. 17 2 Of CARMYLIE. 373 All the families of the parish, with the exception of two, attend the Established Church ; and nearly all, the parish church. There are 5 members of the United Associate Synod ; 3 independents ; 1 Baptist, and 1 Episcopalian. Divine service is well attended, and tiie regularity of the parishioners in this vefspect is very ex- emplary. The annual average number of comnranicants is 500, in- cluding about 35 from neighbouring parishes, who are remote firom their parish churches. Owing to the depressed state of the poor's funds for many years, and the consequent difficulty ofmeeting the demands for parochial relief) without having recourse to compulsory assessments, there have been but few collections in the church for extra-parochial purposes, either veiigious or charitable ; and the annual average of which for thm ten years preceding 1831, may be stated at L. 2.* EdycaAm. — Besides the parochial school, there is a private schody built by subscription, situated in the south-west part of the parish. *f- The branches of education generally taught in the pa- rish school are, English, reading, and grammar, writing, arithme- tic, and Latin ; and in the private school, reading, writing, and arithmetic The yearly salary of the parochial teacher is the maxi- mum, L. 34,4s., and the annual average amount of school fees, (in- cluding payment for some articles of stationery) is from L. 18to L. J 9. The teacher of the private school has his school-room rent free, but has no salary. The number of scholars, and consequently the amount of fees, vary with the teacher for the time. The present teacher states the annual average of his school fees for the lat^t two years, at about L. 20. The parochial teacher has the legal accom- modations. I am not aware of any young persons between six and fifteen years of age, who have not received or are not now receiving instruc- tions in reading; — nor of any persons in the parish upwards of fifteen years of age who cannot read. There may be many of the latter Meal from Cormylie, Do. firom InTerkeUor, Wheat from f rrrerkeilor. Annual average value of teind of Brjanton, Inverkeilor, payable to the minister of Cannylie, after the parish minister receives his proportion, L. 1, Ids. * In 1834, L. 14 were cither collected in the church or contributed in the parish, towards the erection of a Chapel of Ease in a neighbouriiig parish. *t* Since 1C31, another private school, in a populous part of the parish, which had been built by subscription some years ago, and latterly discontinued, has been re- opened. The branches taught, and the school fees, are the same as in the other pri- vate school. 23 1 t>i 2 2 2 3^ B. F. P. L. 25 3 3 1^ • 8 2 374 FORFARSHIRE. class who cannot write ; but there is reason to believe that nearly all the young people who have attended school of late years have received instructions in writing. The number of scholars present at the annual examination of the parish school for the three years preceding IQSly averaged 61 ; the number on the roll, 64. The greatest number attending school in 1831 amounted to 124, of whom 60 attended the parish school ; 40 the private school ; and the remainder, a private school adjoin- ing a remote part of the parish. The distance of that part, con- taining a population of about 100, is such as to prevent the at- tendance of the children at the parish school, more especially as the young are now sent to school at an earlier age than was usual in former days. There was a private school in that quarter, which has been discontinued of late, and no additional school seems to be required for their accommodation, as a parish school, and the private school alluded to, are in their neighbourhood. Though the number now attending school * be not so great as could be wished, it is yet greater in proportion to the population than the number stated as attending in my predecessor's time, when the population was 700, — a fact which seems to imply an increase of intelligence on the part of the parents, in appreciating more highly the benefits of education ; and, so far as I have had an opportunity of judging, I am inclined to think, that an increase of intelligence has become visible, particularly amongst the young, within the last twelve or fifteen years. Literature. — A parochial library was instituted here in 1828, and is under the management of the kirk-session. The readers pay Is. per annum, for the purpose of keeping the books in repair, and of purchasing a few additional volumes. It is hoped that this in- stitution, while it tends to increase the intelligence, will also tend to promote the religious and moral improvement of the people. There is another library in the parish, which was instituted se- veral years ago, by an ingenious young man, who taught at that time a private school in that quarter. It is managed and supported by the people in that part of the parish, and, so far as I can learn, is in a prosperous state, and likely to prove conducive to their im- provement Charitable and other Institutions. — A Friendly Society was in- * This number, I am glad to find, is increasing, for the number of scholars in Pebruary 1835, attending the parish school, and the private schools mentioned since last census, amounts to 1 47, — while the population since last census has increased about 12. CARMYLIE. 375 stitttled here in 1816, and consisted of about 200 members, be- longing to this and to some of the neighbouring parishes. It appear- ed to be in a very prosperous state ; but declining to adopt the re* guktioDs contained in a late Act of Parliamient, regarding such societies, it was, in 1830, dissolved by mutual consent, and the funds er cow or full grown ox, grazed, or that may be grazed; for tbe senson, - - • - 2202 ^^robaUe value of the annual thinning, and periodical felling of plantations, 200 WoduM of quarries, ... ... 300 I^ 17,5(ii> There are employed in the parish, in carrying on agricultural operations, about 140 work-horses. And there are maintained • about 280 milk cows, whose produce is very advantageously dis- posed of to the large and rapidly increasing population of Dun- dee. But the annual value thereof is of course intended to be in- cluded in the value which has been assigned to the produce on wliich the cows subsist. V. — Parochial Economy. The nearest market-town is Dundee, and the distance to it, as has been incidentally stated, is five or six miles. Mecais of Communication, — The turnpike road from Dundee to Aberdeen by Forfar intersects the eastern extremity of the parish, and the rail-road from Dundee to Newtyle passes through a por- tion of the parish near its south-west boundary. The parish roads have been of late much improved, but they are still very suscep- tible of improvement. Eeclegiastical State. — The parish church and the manse are nearly in the centre of the parish, and whether distance or popu- lation be considered, a more eligible situation for them could not have been chosen. The church was built about the year 1806 — is in excellent condition, and contains sittings for 700 individuals* The manse was built about the year 1803, and has undergone such alterations, and received such repairs, as make it very comfort- able. The extent of the glebe is 5 acres, and its annual value may be estimated at L. 14« As to the stipend, it is 10 chalders^ and L. 30. There is not any place for public worship in the pa- rish except the Established Church, and all the inhabitants of the 36S FORFARSHIRE. parish) with the exception of four or five individuals^ adhere to the establishment. Divine service at the Established Church is well attended* The average number of communicants is about 450. The average amount of church collections yearly for religious and charitable objects, is about L. 50. Edncatioru — There are 5 schools in the parish^ namely, 1 pa^ rochial school, and 4 schools in detached situations, for compara- tively young children. The parochial schoohABtster has the maiu^ mum salary, and his house and the schoolroom are in good con-^ dition. The general expense of education per month or year is so rea- sonable as to place it within the reach of almost alL The very few children whose parents cannot afibrd to pay for their educa- tion, have their school fees paid from those funds which are un- der the control of the session. All the inhabitcmts above six or eight years of age can read, and a great majority of them are qualifi- ed to write. The people in general are adequately alive to the benefits of education. There is one parochial library, which is re- garded by the inhabitants with a lively interest, and is flourishing accordingly. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 10, and the average sum allotted to each per month is 5s. or 6s. ; but, besides those persons who receive statedly parochial aid, there are some to whom money, according to their circumstances, is oc- casionally given ; and a considerable sum is annually expended on fuel and clothing. The ordinary collections made in the church for the support of the poor, amount to about L. 30 per annum. Tne other sources of revenue are the interest of money, mortcloth dues, &c. , There has not been remarked any tendency in individuals to throw them- selves unwarrantably on the parochial funds, nor has there on the other hand been observed any particular delicacy in accepting aid from these fimds, when it has been actually needed. There are in the parish one inn and two ale-houses, but they do not a{^)ear to have produced to any considerable extent, a deteriorating efiect on the morals of the people. FueU — Coals (chiefly English) brought from Dundee, are in common use ; but in certain districts of the parish, the quantities of broom and fiirze, which may be easily procured, tend to lessen considerably the annual expenditure of the people for fuel September, 18364 PARISH OF KIRKDEN.* ■ PRESBYTERY OP ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID CARRUTHERS, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name,-- This parish, which is landward, was anciently called Idvie, owing to the glebe being situated in the barony o( Id vies, — with the etymology of which vocable we are not acquainted. Its modern name, however, is Kirkden — evidently derived from the fact of the church being placed in a sort of dell or valley, which depressions are termed dens in this quarter. Extent and Boundaries, — In length from east to west, it mea- sures nearly 7 miles ; its greatest breadth is not more than 2 ; at one part, within a mile east of the church, it does not exceed a stone-cast in width ; and its whole superficies is nearly 7 square miles. It is bounded on the north, by Rescobie and Guthrie ; on the south, by Carmylie; by Kinnell and Ihverkeillor, on the east; and by Dunnicben, on the west Topographical Appearances. — The parish is of an irregular fi- gure, but its surface, though gently undulated, is comparatively level, with the exception of a considerable ascent towards the south, formed by the termination of the Sidlaw Hills. From this elefation, the eye ranges over a rich and extensive panorama. Im- mediately around, are the mansions, woods, and lawns of many of the country gentlemen ; to the west, is the fertile and picturesque valley of Strathmore, on the back ground of which are the aspir- ing summits and grand rugged passes of the Grampian mountains; and to the east, are the towns, and bays, and headlands, along the coast. Meteorologyj Sfc, — The prevailing wind is from the east, which, during the months of spring, carries dense aqueous vapours, here termed eastern haarsj exhaled from the German Ocean. No par- ticular disease can be said to prevail. * Drawn up by a nephew of the present incumbent. 70RFAR. C C 384 FOUFARSHIRK. Hydrography. — At the junction of the parishes of Kirkden and Dunnichen, is a perennial well of a chalybeate nature, to which there seems to have been assigned extraordinary virtues in the curing of swellings and ulcers, even "after the applications of se- veral physicians had proved ineffectual." The small river Vinny, rising in the marsh or mire of Lower, in the parish and neighbour- hood of Forfar, washes the northern boundary of this parish for more than four miles ; it then enters the parish, and is shortly af- terwards joined by the Lunan, when they form together a consider- able stream called Lunan Water, which falls into the bay of that name near Redhead. From the marshy nature of the Vinny's origin and course, an immense body of water is accumulated in rainy weather, and poured down like a mountain torrent, inundat- ing the lower lands through which it flows. Both the Vinny and Lunan are excellent trbuting streams, and the latter contains pike, owing to the circumstance of its rising out of the loch of Resten- net, and communicating with the lakes of Kescobie and Balgavies, which abound with that species of fish ; a few salmon ascend it in the spawning season, which commences in the middle of Septem- ber, and ends about a month thereafter. Geology and Mineralogy.''^ — The greater part of this parish rests upon a hard grey sandstone formation, similar to that which stretches through the valley of Strathmore. It seldom, however, presents itself in this neighbourhood, unless where artificial excavations or ravines, formed by the action of water, have laid it open. Hard masses of indurated clay are found to alternate ; but I am not aware that any remains of the animal or vegetable kingdoms have been discovered in these strata, although several indistinct impres- sions of the latter kind are occasionally manifested. Trap rocks exist in the southern extremity of the parish, which are evidently a continuation of the Sidlaw Hills ; and, as the plains of the ad- jacent sandstone strata possess a coinciding direction, so it seems highly probable that both received their present dip and position from the same internal convulsion. These strata vary in their dip from 10° to 20% inclining to the east and south-east. Boulders. — Irregular masses of primitive rocks of large dimen- sions are frequently met with in the recently cultivated portions of the parish. These chiefly consist of mica-slate, greenstone, gra- * For a complete account on this head, see the rc})ort of the neighbouring parish •f Duunicbcu, drawn up hy the Kev. Jaints Headrick, whose acijuaintance with this hranch ot science is universaUy known. KIRKDEV. 385 nite, and gneiss. They are all considerably attriturated, and whe- ther their transportation to their present locality is to be attributed to the Noachian deluge, or to whatever cause, the agency must have been tremendous. They are fully twenty miles distant from the Grrampians, where they abound in situ^ and in the interval there are very bold acclivities, which could not fail to impede their transference thither. There are very distinct traces of gla- cier action throughout the valleys of the Vinny and the Lunan. The morainen are exceedingly well marked. Soily ^c. — The soil being the debris resulting from the disinte- gration of our rocks, is chiefly a friable clay, sometimes mixed with graVel and arenaceous deposits. It is naturally cold and shallow, but owing to judicious tillage, and the importation of mar), which is abundant in the neighbouring lakes, it has of late been gready improved, and is now capable of bearing every sort of crop. Quarries. — There are two excellent freestone quarries wrought, as occasion requires, — which afford employment to a considerable * number of men. Botany. — There is abundance of plantation in many parts of this parish, but little or no natural wood. The soil, when left uncultivated, seems disposed to produce whins, broom, fern, and heather. That extensive natural forests, at one time, however, waved over this county, is abundantly vouched for by tradition. Among the plants seemingly indigenous, or now spontaneously produced by the soil, we find, besides the more ordinary kinds, the Orchtis sylvaticus^ Solanum Dulcamara^ Radiola millegrana^ Chelidonium majusy Dipsacus sylvestrisy Veronica Beccahunga^ CisiuM helianthemumy Trifolium ornithopodioidesy T. striatum^ T. campestrey the latter often mistaken for T. pratense. Among the habitats of marshy districts and woods, are found — Menyanthes tri^ fbliatay Nupkar luteuy and occasionally NympluBu alboy Cicuta tnrosOf Subularia aquaticoy Typha latifoliay &c besides three spe- cies of Orchis, viz. viridisy albiday and conopsea. The poisonous Atrnpa Belladonna and Digitalis purpurea are abundant; and Flora at the proper season unfolds on the banks of rivulets and ravines, a rich display of varied garniture of the classes geraniumy avensy anemoniesy &c Wild mustard, Sinapis arvensisy is plentiful on the cultivated lands, and proves highly pernicious to the crops. Zoology. — The breed of cattle reared here is superior, namely, the Galloway or polled kind ; although many people, not know- ing whence the aborigines were imported, ignorantly denominate them the Angus breed. 386 FORFARSHIRE. It cannot be said that we have any variety of birds or quadru* peds peculiar to this district. II. — Civil History. Land'owners. — The only heritors of the parish are, Henry Bax- ter, Esq. of Idvies ; ♦ Thomas Gardyne, Esq." of Middleton ;t Alexaoder Lyell, Esq. of Gardyne ; James Mudie, Esq. of Pit* muies; and John Watt, Esq. of Kinneries. The second and third mentioned gentlemen are natives of the parish, and dwell here ; the fourth also resides in it ; and the first did so occasion- ally, at a handsome cottage erected on his estate. Parochial Registers, — A register of parochial matters, from the year 1650 to 1690, after having been lost for a long while, was accidentally discovered by the predecessor of the present incum- bent ; one of the leaves having been casually sent from a shop in the neighbourhood. From the latter date to 1735, no records are known to exist ; but they have since been regularly preserved to the present time. Antiqvities, — Opposite the mansion-house of Pitmuies, close by the turnpike road, there is an obelisk which has obviously been shortened by violence, or the abrasive influence of time, but is yet five feet high, with some mutilated hieroglyphics on it. It Is nich- ed into a large stone, and is supposed to have been erected in the year 1010, by Malcolm II. upon the defeat of the Danes. About fifty years ago, a tumulus was opened in the immediate vicinity of the stone in question, and several urns containing ashes of the dead were discovered ; and in the plain adjoining, nearly a score of stone coffins, placed laterally, were dug up, each containing an entire human skeleton. Stone coffins were recently discovered in the farm of BractuUo, containing human bones, with strings of beads apparently made of charred wood. There are, in the parish, two artificial mounds of a conical fi- gure, termed laws^ from the circumstance of criminals having been executed there during the feudal times. Both are at present beautifully ornamented with trees. One of them named BractuUo (Bractie law) is on the estate of Idvies; the other, called the Gal- lows-hill, is on the lands of Gardyne. Ancient Buildings. — The Castle of Gardyne is a very fine spe- cimen of an old baronial residence, resembling in its style of ar- • Mr Baxter having lately died, his affairs are conducted by his trustees, in be- hoof of his two daughters. t Mr Gardyne died January 1841, leaving his nephew, M^jor William Bruce, who has assumed the surname of Gardyne, heir to his landed property. KIRKDEN. 38 IV chitecture the famous Castle of Glammis. It is luxuriantly em- bosomed io trees, on the precipitous bank of a beautiful ravine, ivhich is enlivened by a murmuring stream of water. Modern Buildings. — The mansion-houses of Pitmuies and Mid- dletoD are comparatively modern structures. They are situated on a plain near the banks of the Vinny, and the surrounding woods and lawns are as tastefully disposed as the equality of the ground will admit oC 1 1 1. — Population. In 1755^ ih« number of population was 563 1790, . . 627 1801, . ... 674 1811, ... 738 I82I, .... 813 1631, . . 1039 1836, .... 1137' 1841, 1437 Causes of increase. — The chief c^use of augmentation is evi- dently the increasing speculation in mai^u fact u res, which has re- cently induced operatives to feu houses, at a cheap rate, on the estate of Middleton. The village, called Friockheim, has, in con- sequence, a population of 803. Exclusive of hamlets, or cottons (cot-towns), according to the orthography of the district, this is the only village in the parish ; hence, when its complement of inhabitants is deducted from the total population, the remaining 537 may be said to reside in the rural parts. The births for the last twelve' years averaged 32 annually. There is no register of deaths kept ; but the marriages during that time have been at the rate of 11 yearly. Under 15 years of age, 421 pcnionf. Betwixt 15 and 30, . 327 30 and 50, . 21 1 50 and 70, . 143 Upwards of 70, . 35 Toul. 1137 lliere are no individuals or families in this parish who can pro- perly be said to be of independent fortune, except the heritors for- merly mentioned, all of whom are proprietors of land to the year- ly value of L.'*200 and upwards. The number of bachelors and of widowers above fifty years of age, is about 16; and of unmarried women upwards of 45, 2i. There are ^QQ families in the parish, and the average number * The census of 1836 was tm the house of Northesk ; and from them it passed by purchase, about 1740, to the late Ear) of Panmure, who entailed it along with his other estates, and transmitted it to his grandnephew, the present proprietor. In 1659, the lands of Muirmills, along with the keepership of Monthrewmont Moor, belonged to Archibald Wood of Hilton, and soon afterwards merged in the estate of Bolshan. In the castle of West Braky there exists a memorial of the Fra- sers, — a coat-ofarms with the date 1581. The blazon of the arms is azure, three cinquefoils argent, — the cognizance of Fraser. Impaled with quarterly, first and fourth, gules three crescents of the second, — the arms of Pierrepont ; second and third, three mul- lets of the second, — the arras of Murray. There is no crest. Above the shield are the letters t. f. ; and over the letters is the motto, " Soli Deo confido." The foundation of the castle of Whitchills, which stood on the south side of the Lunan, and considerably higher up than the farm-steading of KinnelPs Mill, was dug up by the tenant, whose lease, after an occupancy of forty-three years, terminated in 1811. But it was a ruin in the seventeenth century, and furnished the materials for building what was called the Stone house, in the Kirktown of Kinnell, where a chamberlain or baronial officer re- 3 KINNELL. 397 sided) with the name of^provost, in old time ; and latterlvy the tenant of the Kirktown, with the same appellation. The castle of Bolshan, which, as Monipenny's Scottish Chro- nicles tell us in 1612, was Lord Ogilvy's special residence, has passed away with the other monuments of feudal grandeur. The cemetery and site of the chapel were subjected to the plough be- fore 1767. The last remains of the castle were removed soon after. And now, for a long while, there has been no other remem- brancer of the ancient glory of the place, than the peculiar appear- ance of the soil, a little to the westward of the present farm-house. The OgiWies, as proprietors, perhaps, of Bolshan, seem to have had a sort of heritable claim to the bailiary of the abbey of Ar- broath.* In the minority of Sir John Ogiivy, the Master of Crawfurd, availing himself of the distractions which prevailed over all Scotland, in consequence of the similar minority of King James II., obtained possession of the office. But his insolence ttid oppression soon disgusted the monks ; and the Ogilvies, un- der the conduct of Sir. Alexander Ogiivy of Inverwharity, tutor of the claimant, took up arms to assert their right. The Earl of Crawford, who had hasted from Dundee to attempt a reconcilia- tion between the contending parties, was recklessly slain as he went forward to hold a conference with Sir Alexander. His death was the signal for a general engagement, and victory de- clared on the side of his son. About 500 of the Ogilvies were slain, and among them Sir John Oliphant of Aberdaigay, and five lesser barons. Sir Alexander Ogiivy was taken, and carried to the castle of his rival at Finhaven, where, in a few days, he died of grief and wounds ; and the Earl of Huntly, who, having been accidentally Sir Alexander's guest, chose to partake of his quarrel as well as his hospitality, escaped only by the swiftness of his horse. About 100 fell on the side of the victors. The battle was fought on the 24th January 1445-6, in the neighbourhood of Arbroath; and men did not fail to remark the speedy punishment.which over- took the leaders of the two clans, and which they were unwittingly constrained to execute upon one another. For acting in concert with the Earl of Douglas, who had greatly increased the distrac- tions of the times, they bad been jointly engaged in plundering the vassals of the Bishop of St Andrews, and, indeed, were but recently returned from Fife with their spoils. In memory of the battle, a spur and boot, which had belonged to one of the slain • nocthii Hist. Lib. 18, ful. .%,5. Par. 1574. 398 FORFARSHIRE. chieftains, were hung up in the south aisle of Kinnell Church. After the aisle was unroofed, and excluded from the church in ] 766, the boot speedily fell to decay ; but the spur still exists, measuring 8 inches in length, and 4^ in breadth, and haviDg a rowel as large as a crown piece. And the verses. In which the feats of the connbatants were sung, have not yet altogether passed away from the remembrance of the people. In 1790 and 1805, there was found between Hatton and Hatton- mill, in the face of the bank above the Lunan, a considerable number of silver pennies and halfpennies, which the owners had probably concealed in troublous times, and afterwards, through death or other accident, found no opportunity of bringing forth again for the purposes of life. In both cases, the earthen pots which contained them were but slightly sunk into the gravelly bank ; and, what is remarkable, they were in both cases discover- ed by boys going to school, and those boys were brothers. It is said that there was no specimen of any rare coin among them ; and accordingly, instead of passing into the cabinets of the curious, .they were almost all of them melted down ; and a portion of the latter 6nding still exists not far from the spot where they were found, in an article of convivial utility, a ladle for a punch bowl. A halfpenny, however, still remains of John Baliol, having on one side a head crowned in proGle and looking to the right, and a sceptre surmounted with a lily before it, with the legend, ** Jo^ hannes Dei Gra ;" and on the other side, a cross, with a spur revel in two of the quarters, with the legend " Rex Scotorum" The others were of Baliol's cotemporary, Edward King of England, with the full face and legend of' Edw. R. Ang. Dns. Hyb^** on one side, and on the other side, the cross, pellets, and place of coin- age, " Civitas London. Cantor. Dublinie, Bristolief" &c Three years ago, in time of harvest, a similar coin, from the mint of York, fEboraciJy was found in a field not far from the castle of West Braky. But a piece far more valuable, both for rarity and intrinsic worth, was found, in 1829, on the farm of Mainsbank, by the side of a ditch, out of which it had probably been cast. It was an aureus, a gold coin of the Roman Emperor Antoninus Pius, bearing on one side the Emperor's head, with the inscription '^ Antoninus Aug. Pius P. P. Imp. II. ;" and on the other a victory, with the inscription « Tr. Pot. XIX. cos. IIW that is, " Antoninus Au- gustus Pius, father of his country ; twice saluted with the title of 4 KINNELL. 399 Emperor (Imperator) by the army and senate; nineteen times invested with the tribunitian power ; and four times with the con- sulship." And consequently it refers to the year 156 of the Christian era. This 'emperor 6xed the northern boundary of the Roman empire to the Forth and Clyde ; and though it does not appear that any province was erected permanently farther north, yet the transactions of commerce and war were sufficient to con- Yey the Roman coin beyond the frontiers ; and we know, that, in the beginning of the following century, the Emperor Severus lost many thousands in pursuit of the natives along the whole line of the eastern coast of Scotland. On the top of the Wuddy-law, the highest point in the parish, there was a large tumulus or barrow, the diameter of which was about 45 yards, and the height 4. It was composed of alternate layers of stones and earth ; and while the stones were removed during a course of several years for the filling of drains, earthen ▼easels containing a black fattish mould were occasionally disco- vered. And not far off, are the Gallow-law and Pit, where, if we may believe tradition, capital punishments were inflicted in an- cieot times. Above fifty years ago, a tenant cut across the top of this law, in the hope of falling in with hiddeu treasure, but he found nothing save some urns and half- burnt bones. In 1835, on Westfield of Hattonmill, at the removal of a cairn about 15 yards in diameter, a grave was discovered, built of rude stones, and about five feet in length, lying north and south, and sunk two or three feet below the surface of the hillock on which the cairn stood. The bones which the grave contained, seemed large, and the skull had best resisted the work of decay. But the whole of them speedily crumbled down. Between the cairu and the original surface of the hillock, there was a flooring or coating of three or four inches of clay. The grave was not in the middle of the cairn*-— At the Glesterlaw and other places, also, urns and bones have been discovered. In the Battle Drum Wood, on the north* west of the parish, there are many cairns or circular heaps of moor stones. They lie chiefly in two lines, which arc parallel to the Drum or ridge of the hill on the north, and to the Battle Burn on the south ; and they might be inclosed within two acres of ground. A little far-* ther east, but not in this parish, there are also the Battle Cairn, and the Battle Well, additional memorials of an event which has now no other record than those names and appearances. Tradi* FORFAR. P d 400 FORFARSHIRE. tion calls it a battle between the Picts and tbe Romans, — perhaps because tbe common name of the moor is Manromanf although most probably that name is a corruption of Manihrewnioni^ and consequently of much later date than the cairns. The Battle Burn issaid to have flowed with blood as far as Fithy; and the herdsmen when they drank out of the well, used to throw into it a bit of their bread, lest the water should turn to blood,"-a rem- nant, perhaps, of a very ancient superstition, which, peopling every department of nature with divinities, sought by means of preaents to conciliate their favour, or avert their malignity. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence about 1657. But there are several chasms ; and indeed the records fre- quently contain nothing but the collections and disbursements for the poor. The average collection for one Sunday in the summer season, was, in 1657, lOd. Sterling; in 1701, 2s. 4^d.; in 1710, Is. 4d. ; in 1750, Is. lid. The collection on the communion Sunday, in 1657, was 14s. S^d.; in 1701, L.d, 7s. 2^d.; in 1710, L.2, Os. 3d.; in 1750, L.2, 5s. lid. And in these two last sums are included the collections on the other three sacramental days. Down to 1701, there was no other week-day service connected with the communion than the preparation service on Saturday at two o'clock. The last Episcopal incumbent died in the following year; and under the present ecclesiastical establishment, no com- munion was administered till 1710, when the fast-day and thanks- giving day also make their appearance. Previously to 1702, there were on the communion Sabbath three several services, those of the morning, forenoon, and afternoon. The minister generally had two assistants. One of them preached the sermon in the morning, and the other the " thanksgiving^* sermon in the after- noon. The first of these services began very early, probably not later than seven or eight o'clock. In 1660, the people were ap» pointed to keep the communion, one-half at six o'clock in the morning, and the other half at eleven o'clock, and all to be pre« sent at the " Doctrine of Thanksgiving^* at four o'clock in the af- ternoon. Of the collections on the communion Sunday, by fiir the greater part, probably more than two-thirds, were collected, not at the doors, but at the tables; and it was not till after 1729 that the practice of collecting at the tables was discontinued. Of all the original parochial churches within the Presbytery of Arbroath, two only, those on Kinnell and Kirkden, continued to be rectories or parsonages at the time of the Reformation. Rirry KINNELL. 401 had been gifted to the Abbey of Balmerino ; Guthry was itself become a kind of conventual establishment; and the other churches were in the hands of the Abbey of Arbroath. The lands of the parish, at one time at least, seem to have been partly within the regality of Arbroath and partly within the barony of KinnelU And both under the Papal and under the Episcopal polity, Kin- nell, as well as all the parishes of the Presbytery, save Guthry, Panbride, and a part of Carmylie, was in the diocese of St An- drews. The following list of the ministers of Kinnell ascends almost to the time of the Reformation : Arthur Fethy was presented to Kinnell by James VI. in 1587, and translated to Inverkeilor in 1598. John Guthrie, reader in Arbroath, was presented to Kinnell in' 1599, translated to Arbirlot in 1603, to Perth in 1610, to Edin- burgh in 1620; consecrated Bishop of Murray in 1623; depriv- ed, along with the other Scottish Bishops, in 1638; and expelled from the Episcopal castle of Spynie in 1640. According to Keith, he was a venerable, worthy, and hospitable prelate ; and having encountered the storm, from which such of the bishops, as did not submit to Presbytery, fled for refuge into England, he re- tired to his own house of Guthrie in Forfarshire, and died, says MiddletoQ, exercising his charity amongst the poor in the time of the civil wars. His brother and his son John were ministers of Arbroath and DufTus. William Kinnear, reader in Arbroath, was presented to Kinnell in 1603, and died in 1612. Henry Futhie was admitted by the Archbishop of St Andrews with assistants in J 612, and translated to Fowlis and Lundie. James Guthrie was translated to Arbirlot in 1625. David Kinnear died in 1638. James Thomson, Senior, died after May 1681. James Thomson, Junior, having received ordination from the Archbishop, and institution from the Archdeacon, (Dean), was admitted by the Presbytery to be conjunct minister with his father in 1675, and died in his father's lifetime in 1681. David Thomson was admitted conjunct minister with his father i