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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I I He N S t \S^ THE NEW STATISTI CAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. XIV. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. VOL. XJV, INVELVKSS-ROSS AND CROMARTY. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. INVERNESS. { CONTENTS. nr > ALVIE, • • PAGE 81 ARDERSIRR, • • • 462 BARRAT, • , • 19& BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF, 51 BRACADALE, • • 295 CROMDALB, • • • 432 CROT AND DALCROSS, AAA. DAVIOT AND DUNLICHITY, 513 DORBS, 373 DUIRINISH, • • • 322 GLENELO, 128 HARRIS, • • • 155 INVERNESS, 1 KILMALIB, • • • 117 KILMONIVAIG, 503 KILMORACK, * • • 361 KILMUIR, 237 KILTARLITY, « • • 483 KINGUSSIE, 63 KIRKRILL, • • • 459 LAOOAN, 417 MOY AND DALAROSSIE, • 97 NORTH UIST, • • 159 PETTIE, • • 375 PORTREE, • • • 218 SLEAT, • • 317 SMALL ISLES, • • • 145 8NIZ0RT, • 287 SOUTH UIST, • • • 182 STRATH, • • 300 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON, 36 J J J .J..,. .* • '•■ y-v. i » • «. * ^ \ .v. .*>•« *' •^W«^ ^4^ 4.^ .* PARISH OF INVERNESS. PRESBYTERY OF INVERNESS, SYNOD OF MORAY, THE REV. ALEXANDER ROSE, D. D. ) ALEXANDER CLARK, J- MINISTERS. ♦ ROBERT MACPHERSON, J I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — From the earliest periods, this parish seems to have borne its present name, which is Celtic, and is supposed to refer to the celebrated Fall of Foyers, which discharges its streams into Loch Ness, (Loch *(m Ess^ i. e, the Lake of the Cataract,) and thence through the River Ness to the sea. Extent^ Sfc, — The parish stretches along the coast of the Moray Frith, and its prolongation the Beauly Frith. Its length, from north-east to south-west, is 14 miles; and its average breadth about 2^. It is bounded on the north-east by the friths ; on the west by the parishes of Kirkhill, Kiltarlity, and Urquhart ; south west by Loch Ness and the parish of Dores ; south and south-east by the parishes of Daviot and Croy; and on the east by the parish of Petty. Topographical Appearances. — The parish of Inverness consists chiefly of the eastmost portion of the great Caledonian valley, or " Great Glen of Albin," as it lies between the basin of the Moray Frith, which is the prolongation of that opening, and the waters of Loch Ness. It is also flanked on each side by the terminating chains of mountains which bound the Great Glen, and which con- stitute the only rocky or hilly parts of the parish. The surface of the valley, which is smooth and but little elevated above the pre- sent level of the sea, except where diversified by the alluvial hil- locks and terraces afterwards described, contains, of course, the richest and best cultivated lands in the parish. The mountains of the Great Glen, as they approach the east • Drawn up by the Rev. Dr Rose and George Anderson, Esq. F. R. S. E., In- verness. INVERNESS. A 2 INVERNESS-SHIRE. coast, gradually decrease in height and asperity ; and those on the southern side especially, as they enter this parish, subside into a smooth elevated ridge about 400 feet high, which ultimately tapers off, and loses itself among the flat sandstone plains of Nairnshire. On the opposite side, the granitic mountains which occur at the north-eastern extremity of Loch Ness are succeeded by an ex- tremely rough but picturesque group of sandstone and conglome- rate hills, which reach to the adjoining frith, and end in the well- known vitrified site of Craig Phadric, lying immediately to the west of the town of Inverness, and distinguished by its beautiful tabu- lar summit, and a succession of bold rocky escarpments along its acclivities. ^ The environs of Inverness are well cultivated, and adorned with a profusion of woods and young plantations, and the distant view is in all directions (except towards the east, where the eye is greet- ed by the waters of the Moray Frith,) closed in with screens of mountains greatly diversified in height and outline. The coast-line of this parish takes several extensive bends or sweeps ; and the adjoining flats are throughout highly cultivated, presenting a considerable breadth of corn land, with the exception of a portion westward of the village of Clachnaherry, where a rocky cliff* rises abruptly from the shore, leaving but a narrow slip of ground between it and the sea. Two large bays lie to the east and west of the town of Inverness,* and between them the River Ness empties itself on the right of the narrow strait called Kessock Ferry, which separates Inverness from Ross-shire, and the Moray Frith from the inner basin of Loch Beauly, or the Beauly Frith. Meteorology. — The climate of this parish, which is much influ- enced by the nature of its soil and position, is on the whole dry and salubrious. The low^r parts of the parish are warm, being well sheltered by trees; the heights are cold and exposed, but they have been much improved of late by drainage and planting. As the moun- tains, which lie to the south and west, intercept much of the va- pour which rises from the Atlantic Ocean, and bestows a peculiarly damp character on the climate of the west coast, so in like man- ner the inland position of this parish, with respect to the German Ocean, protects it from suffering so much as some of the adjoin- ing districts, by the raw and boisterous easterly winds which pre- vail in this country during spring, and the first months of summer. The west wind is here the most frequent and warmest, and yields INVERNESS. 3 the greatest quantity of moisture ; but the number of rainy days at this end of the Great Glen is about sixty less than at Fort- Wil- liam on the opposite shore. Rain is here speedily absorbed by the light gravelly seil, which is another cause of the comparative dry- ness of the climate. The great bodies of fresh water, however, which occupy so large a portion of the surface of Inverness-shire, are continually sending up immense quantities of mist and watery va- pour from their surface, and as these become immediately con- densed and attracted to the sides and summits of the mountains, Inverness in consequence presents peculiar advantages to the stu- dent of atmospheric phenomena. In spring especially, great volumes of mist arise from Loch Ness, (which is itself about 24 miles long, nearly 2 miles broad, and in some places 115 fathoms deep,) and are hurried by the winds to*the eastern sea, whence they descend in fertile showers on the neighbouring lands. After a snow storm, these vapoury columns, (particularly about the com- mencement of a thaw,) assume the most fantastic forms, and as their warmth gradually removes the white covering of the moun- tains, long parallel streaks and Unes of black appear on their sides and summits, indicating the course and relative temperatures of the prevailing currents of wind. During winter, our sea coast becomes the haunt of great num- bers of wild geese, ducks, herons, and cormorants, and occasionally of a few wild swans, and foreign birds. A few years ago the com- mon plover was known to nestle in the lower parts of the district, but now it is rarely seen but in the highest grounds. Hydrography.^-Mosi of the observations under this head appli- cable to the parish of Inverness are already embraced in the fore- going details. It is only necessary to add, that there are many perennial springs of pure water in the district, but few medicinal or otherwise distinguished. The Ness is the only river which flows through the parish. Its course from its parent lake to the sea is about 8 miles long ; its channel gravelly, and about 60 yards wide, with a uniform inclination, giving to the river a gentle but equable flow, and hence it affords peculiar advantages to the erection of mills and manufactures. Its average depth is in summer about 3 feet, in winter 6 or 7 feet The water of the River Ness possesses a purgative quality on persons unaccustomed to drink it. This pro- perty appears to be owing to decomposed vegetable matter, and to result from Confervae and Mosses, which its high temperature keeps 4 INVL'RNESS'SHIUE. continual!}' growing in its channel, and not to the influence of the tide, as many have supposed. Some of the burns, such as those of Inches, Holm, Dochfour, and Aberiachan, display small but beautiful waterfalls, associated with hazel copses and woodland scenery ; but none of them are so large as to merit particular description. Geology and Mineralogy. — The greater portion of the Highlands of Scotland consists of rocks of the oldest or primary class, that is, of such as have a highly crystalline structure, and are entirely de- void of organic remains or petrifactions. Where stratified or re- gularly disposed, the beds or strata usually maintain a course from south-west to north-east, are vertical or highly inclined to the horizon, but without any constant dip or position. Parallel to the prevailing direction of the strata, the mountains generally run in lines from south-west to north-east, with great longitudinal valleys or straths between them, into which the waters of the ocean have penetrated, forming large bays and friths ; or the surfaces of the valleys are occupied by a succession of fresh water lakes united to- gether, and with the sea, by whiding streams and rivulets. I^esser valleys, called glens and passes, traverse the mountain chains, or stretch along their rocky sides ; and it is generally among these that the most picturesque scenery, and most beautiful and romantic castles and seats of the Highland, gentry, and hamlets of their te- nants, are to be seen. Towards the south-western boundary of the Highlands, mica, chlorite, and clay slates prevail ; in the north, and especially in In- verness-shire, and the counties beyond it, gneiss is the most abun- dant rock ; and throughout and far above it, enormous masses of granite and of the oldest trap or porphyritic rocks shoot up, — such as the Grampians, and the alps of Glencoe and Ben- Nevis. On this great nucleus of primary rock, deposits of secondary strata, distinguished chiefly by their fragmentary structure and the presence of organic remains, both animal and vegetable, and con- sisting for the most part of sandstones, shales and limestDnes, re- pose. They are found on both sides of the island, and at its northern extremity. The secondary deposit on the easteni coast ^eems at one time to have filled the great basin of the Moray Frith, and to have extended far out into the German Ocean. Its re- mains may still be traced from the mouth of the River Spey in a continuous line along the coast to the westward and northward, ex- INVEUNESS. 5 tending inland from 1 to 6 miles, and in the Great Glen even 18 miles from the sea; and abutting against the primary mountains, where the formation terminates in highly inclined strata, or thick shapeless masses of a coarse semi-crystalline breccia or conglome^ rate. In Caithness, this secondary deposit developes itself in great horizontal sheets of rock, uninterrupted by primitive masses, and constitutes almost the whole of that champaign county, and the greater portion of the adjoining Orkneys. As already noticed, this secondary formation consists chiefly of sandstones and limestones, which are probably of several different geological eras. Thus a ridge of coarse conglomerate is usu- ally found on its inner margin next the primitive masses, from which undulating ridges and plains of softer rock extend towards the sea. But on the coast, and in the centre of the deposit, other masses of conglomerate sometimes appear ; and between them and the interior conglomerates, layers of a dark and soft argillaceous schist, abounding with bituminous matter, and occasionally with scales and impressions of extinct ^shes, also interpose in some places. The latter, in general, lie on soft red sandstone. Hence the question arises, are both the conglomerate ridges of the same sera, and the argillaceous schists of the same formation with the sandstones ; or are the former here the substitutes of the true coal deposits, and the latter of the old red sandstone of Werner ? So far as has yet been ascertained, it would appear, that the con- glomerate zone next the primary rocks may be classed as of the age of the old red sandstone ; but, on the other hand, some of the exterior conglomerate ridges and sandstone beds reclining on them .belong to the new red or variegated sandstone deposit. On the latter, also, as a base, members of the lias and oolite formations have been deposited, of which a few beds still remain, as at iEthie and Shandwick in Ross-shire, Brora in Sutherland, and on the Morayshire coast eastward of Burgh-head. They appear to have constituted the superior beds of a great basin of rock stretching across the Moray Frith, but which has been almost entirely wash- ed away by the encroachments of the sea. At Brora, these upper strata further display an unusual connection of coal with the lias formation ; and in the same vicinity also they exhibit a very inte- resting example of the intrusion of granite among secondary de- posits, and of the consequent fracture and dislocation of the latter. The foregoing details are necessary as an introduction to the short notice that now remains to be made of the rocks co\xv^^'^vw^ ^ INVERNESS-SHIRE. the hills in the vicinity of Inverness, — as, without a knowledge of the general structure of the country, it would be exceedingly diffi- cult for an observer to understand the true position of the rocky constituents of this district. The oldest sandstone deposit above-mentioned stretches along the ridge of the Leys, on the south side of this parish, towards Loch Ness, where it terminates near the Fall of Foyers on ledges of a gray sienitic granite. Between the softer sandstone and the , granite, a high rugged chain of conglomerate hills is interposed, which the reader will find particularly described in the account of the parish of Dores. On the opposite side of the Great Glen the sandstones do not penetrate so far inland. They may be traced, however, from the village of Clachnaherry, at the entrance of the Caledonian Canal, to the bum of Dochnalurg, or Dochgarroch, (about eight miles south-west from the town of Inverness,) where they are met by primary gneiss and granite. The sandstone in this line is soft, of a dark red colour, and it dips towards the south-east, or the centre of the adjoining valley. It is caped by great masses of coarse conglomerate, cut into beautiful rounded or rather tabular sum- mits, with bold rocky sides ; and a minute inspection of these de- monstrates that they have been greatly shattered and uplifted from their original positions by the neighbouring granite rocks, which, in fact, in one place (close by Clachnaherry pier) appear in a cliflF immediately beneath them. There the sandstone is super- imposed in thin strata, occasionally vertical in their position, but generally greatly contorted and waved like curved gneiss, and hardened where in immediate contact with the granite. * In the ridge of the Leys the sandstone strata have not been similarly affected. The layers, however, are considerably inclined to the horizon, and dip towards the north-east, a direction opposite to that of the beds on the other side of the valley. Indeed, it is ge- nerally the case that the rocks on the several sides of the Moray, Beauly, and Cromarty Friths dip in different directions, as if bearing towards a central plain, from which they have been upheav- ed. The sandstone of the Leys has many of its beds of a light blue colour, with an intermixture of micaceous scales and limestone. It is quarried and used as a building stone in Inverness. Prismatic calcareous spar, steatite, and heavy spar, abound in this stone. In • The sandstone at this point contains very beautiful specimens of a mineral rare io ScotUnd^foliated Celettine. INVERNESS. 7 several places the fundamental rock is covered with layers of the above-mentioned dark-coloured argillaceous schist, above which we again meet with newer sandstone strata. So far as seen in this parish^ one would be apt to conclude, that the schist was only an alternating bed with the sandstone, and of the same era with it ; but, on comparing it with the same deposits in the more open districts of Ross and Caithness, the schist swells out to an enormous extent, separating the sandstones by a wide in- terval, thereby giving countenance to the supposition, that the three are of different geological ages. The superior sandstone also pos- sesses more of the soft and spotted features of the new red or va- riegated formation of that rock than the lower beds; but data seem yet awanting to enable us to pronounce positively as to their diffe- rence or identity. In regard to the schist, its distinguishing characters are its abound- ing with bituminous matter minutely disseminated throughout it, and which is sometimes found in lumps or veins of compact bitu- men, and its occasionally containing, especially in Caithness, im- pressions of fishes. It has a fetid smell, and white streak, and has often been mistaken for the true bituminous shale of the coal formation, in consequence of which an unfortunate attempt in search t)f coal was once made in this parish. As yet no organic remains have been found in the rocks of this district, no metallic ores of any value, and no trap or porphyry rocks. The sandstone strata appear to be free of fissures and veins, and when the latter do occur, they are generally granitic Alluvial deposits. — But the most interesting geological appear- ances in this parish and the adjoining districts are unquestionably their sand and gravel beds. The neighbouring mountains are co- vered almost to their summits with deep gravelly deposits; the Great Glen has been partially filled up by them, and the necks or portions of land separating its various lakes are formed of the same materials. Hence the presence of the sea or of some other great body of water over the dry land is perhaps more unequivocally de- monstrated, and that on a larger scale, in this quarter than in any other place in Scotland. The elevation of the surface .of Loch Ness above the sea is only 46 feet; the intervening space, a distance of about eight miles, being entirely composed of gravel, which extends to an unknown depth ; and the River Ness flows through this deposit over a chan- nel slightly inclined towards the coast. A gravel terrace rises (to;^ 8 INVERNESS-SHIRE. its southern bank about 90 feet in height, which may be traced al- most in a direct line from Loch Ness to the town of Inverness, be- hind which it turns to the eastward, and stretches along the edge of the Moray Frith to Campbelltown, and thence through Nairn and Morayshires, nearly to the estuary of the river Spey. Westward of Inverness, a terrace bank of the same elevation encircles Loch Beauly, and traces of it may be seen along the Ross-shire coast as far down as Fortrose and Rosemarkie. The breadth of the terrace at Inverness is about a mile and a-half, and its elevation corresponds very nearly with the summit level of the Great Glen, which is situated at Laggan, between the lakes Oich and Lochy. Marine remains have been discovered in various places at the base of this bank, which is about ten feet above the pre- sent high water-mark, and its summit perhaps indicates the height at which the sea at one time stood throughout the whole basin of the Moray Frith. On the west bank of the. River Ness this regularly formed terrace bank does not exist There the gravelly materials were more con- fusedly thrown together, and, m fact, from the end of Loch Doch- four, (the lower basin of Loch Ness,) aperies of undulating knolls, composed of sand and gravel, proceeds, which terminate in the beautifully shaped ridge of Tor a'Bhean, which is nearly 300 feef in height, and lies about a mile to the south-west of Inverness. Between this ridge and Craig Phadrich on the north, a wide bay or opening appears to have been formed by currents of water with gravelly deposits; but that the cavity now existing was at one time filled up, seems clear from the occurrence of a broad shelf or ter- race lying near its upper edge, behind the farm-houses of Kinmy- lies and Charlestown, at an elevation of 330 feet above the sea. The house of Dunain stands on a similar terrace to the west- ward, but which is not quite so high as that just alluded to. Detached from all other eminences, but in front of Tor a'Bhean, and in the line where the Great Glen meets the recess or bay just described, stands the insulated and very conspicuous hill of Tom- nahurich, which is as interesting from its singular position and re- gular form, as from the important occurrences in the history of the parish with which its name is connected. It was in ancient days used both as a watch or ward hill, and a place for dispensing justice ; and, being the great gathering hill of the fairies in the north, its broad and level summit and smooth green sides waving with hare- INVERNESS. 9 bell, broom, and braken, afforded them ample space and seclusion for their elvish orgies. All the alluvial deposits now enumerated consist of rounded frag- ments of rocks, chiefly from the neighbouring primary district, and varying in size from the minutest particles of sand to that of large boulders several feet in circumference. They are sometimes dis- posed in alternate layers of fine and coarse sand and gravel, but most frequently in thick horizontal beds of gravel, having the boul- der stones confusedly mixed throughout them. In some instances the layers repose on one another in beautifully curved lines, show- ing that they were in motion when first brought in contact The direction also of the currents from which they were deposited ap- pears generally to have been from south-west to north-east, as the writer has recognized among the gravel beds at Inverness fragments of the peculiar and well known porphyries of Glencoe and Ben- Nevis, and of the very hard semi-crystalline conglomerate occur- ring near the Fall of Foyers. * It is remarkable that no peculiar sim])Ie minerals or gems have hitherto been found in these gravel beds, nor any organic remains or petrifactions, or even recent marine deposits. No human bones, nor bones of deer or other animals, have been met with at any con- siderable depth beneath the surface ; and in the excavations for the Caledonian Canal, the foreign substances found in the gravel were a few roots and stems of very large oak trees, some of which measured 24 feet in circumference. From these facts, we appear to be warranted in assigning a very high antiquity to the gravel beds of this neighbourhood, and to the belief that they were deposited from fresh, and not from salt water. Soil. — Finally, as might be expected from the foregoing geolo- gical details, the superior soil of this parish is light and sandy, with a subsoil of hard gravel. In the vicinity of the town of Inverness, however, it is enriched with a fine loam of clay deposited from the river, or cast up by the waters of the adjoining frith. The collec- tions of water which anciently covered the district appear also to have left a light clayish sediment even on the higher grounds, which has greatly improved their otherwise gritty and unproductive soil. Botany. — The writer has remarked that the indigenous Flora of * The conclusion here alluded to is further supported by the fact, that a peculiar flesh-coloured granite, composing some of the hills between the rivers Findhorn and Nairn, is found in small masses strewed over all the plains of Morayshire, but no- where to the westward of CuUoden ; and that an uncommon variety of gneiss, of a very large grain, occurring in the central districts of lloss-shire, has been carried to the shores of the Dornoch Frith, but not to the western sea. 10 INVERNESS-SHIRE. this parish are generally about two weeks later of coming into blooin than the same plants are about Edinburgh, and about an equal period earlier than in the north of Caithness and Orkney. Our woods and meadows yield much the same species as the neighbourhood of our Scottish metropolis, with some rather pecu- liar ones, such as Prunus padusy Paris quadrifolia, Linruea bo- realis^ Pyrola rotundifolia^ media^ minor and secundcj together with OrchidicB in great number and variety ; — while the herbage of the upper plains contains very many truly Alpine plants The woods and rocks abound with mosses, fungi, and lichens ; but the algae and other marine productions are here few and stunted, owing to the inland position of the coast and the freshness of the water, occasioned by the influx of the rivers Ness and Beauly. The following is a list of the herbaceous plants found within the wooded region about Loch Ness, which to the botanist will be sufficiently characteristic of the warmth and fertility of our soil and climate. Pinus sylvestris^ Betula alba, Taxus baccata, Cratcegus oxyacantha, Fraj:inus excelsior, Popultis tremula, Quercus robur. Ilex aquifolia, Ulmus campestris, Coryhis avellana, Prunus padus, Lonicera periclymenum. Viburnum opidus, Rosa canina, tomen- tosa, villosa et spinosissima ; Rubus idcsus, svberectus, saxatilis ; ChamcBmoms; Asperula odorata, Paris quadrifolia, Circea lute* tiana et alpina ; Fumaria claviculata, Vicia sylvatica, Rumex dyginiis, Sanicula Europcea, Geranium sylvaticum, lucidum, et san- ffuineum ; Saxifraya hypnoides et aizoides ; Rhodiola rosea, Alche- milla alpina. Digitalis purpurea et alba ; Arbutus uva ursi, Vao cinium tdiginosum etvitis idea ; Pyrola rotundifolia,^ media, minor et secunda ; Trientalis Europea, Epilobium angustifolium, HcUfe- naria viridis, albida, et bifolia ; Aquilegia vulgaris, II. — Civil History. During the reign of the early Scottish monarchs, subsequent to the union of the Picts and Scots, their power was but little known or respected in the Highlands; and it was not till the reign of James I., (a. d. 1424,) that the districts north of the Grampians were subjected to any thing like due obedience to kingly or national laws. Under the exclusive dominion of separate independent Celtic maormors and Saxon and Norman feudal warriors, but little is known of the condition or history of the Highland tribes, except from brief records preserved chiefly by ecclesiastics, of their in- roads upon the more settled inhabitants of the low countries, or * I1ic edges of Kingsmills dam, near Inverness, are the l)est habitat for this rare p)aut, Pyrola rolundi/biia. INVERNESS. 11 their encounters with the piratical Gothic hordes of Norway and Denmark, who occupied the greater portion of the Hebrides and the Orkney and Shetland Isles, with the northern parts of the main coasts of Scotland. Hence but little light could now be cast, even did the present work admit of such a disquisition, on the ancient state of this or of any of the adjoining parishes, were it not that the existence, at a very early period, of the Royal burgh of Inverness, ever since regarded as the capital of the High- lands, attracts the eye to the fortunes of its inhabitants"; and through their transactions a faint picture may be drawn, not only of their own condition, but of that also of the surrounding districts. Burgh of Inverness, — From the researches of the antiquarian writers, mentioned in the subjoined note,* it has been shewn that Inverness, if not existing in the time of the Roman invasions of Britain, was soon thereafter the seat of the Pictish monarchy, and was of some importance during the sixth century, when it was vi- sited by St Columba, the first great Christian missionary to the Highlands. Its local advantages early marked it out as a fit site for one of those large strongholds, by means of which the nobles and sovereigns were enabled to retain their sway over extensive dis- tricts, and hence we find that Macbeth, the Celtic maormor, or great Lord of Ross and Moray, had a castle here, which was pro- bably visited by the " good King Duncan," on account, as Shak- speare says, "of its pleasant seat ; the air nimbly and sweetly re- commending itself unto his gentle senses," but which, on the cruel murder of that monarch, was razed to the ground by his son, Mal- colm III. or Ceanmore, who erected a new fortress on a rising * See the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland, folio edition, passim ; Adamnan*8 Life of St Columba ; Arclueologia Scotica, or the Transactions of the Society of the Anti- quaries of Scotland ; J. Anderson's History of the Family of Fraser, and his Prize Essay on the State of the Highlands, published by the Northern Institution for the Promotion of Science and Literature ; Birt's Letters from the Highlands, (chiefly writ- ten from the old Castle of Inverness,) in 1725-26, 5tli edition, edited by Jameson, Loudon, 1822 ; Carey's Craig Phadric, and other poems published (with notes) at Inverness 161 1, 8vo. ; Chalmers' Caledonia, 3 vols. 1817; Cordiner's Antiquitit^s of the North of Scotland, London, 1780 : Culloden Papers, a collection respecting the Rebellions of 1715 and 1745, edited by the late H. R. Duff, Esq. of Muirtown, in the parish of Inverness ; Sir Robert Gordon's Genealogical History of the Earldom of Sutherland, folio, Edinburgh, 1813 ; Grose's Antiquities of Scotland ; Dr Johnson's Tour to the Hebrides; Keith's Catalogue of the Scottish Bishops; Dr MacCulloch's Letters to Sir Walter Scott on Uie Highlands, 4 vols. 8vo ; Bishop Forbes's Ja- cobite Memoirs, edited by Mr Robert Chambers, 8vo. 1834 ; ** Memorabilia of In- verness," published originally in the Inverness Courier, now out of print, though very valuable and entertaining ; Pitcairn's Ancient Criminal Trials ; Rev. Lachlan Shaw's History of the Province of Moray, second edition, by Mr Grant of Elgin, 4to ; Mr Eraser Tytler's History of Scotland so far as published, and Guide to. the High- lands and Islands of Scotland, by Messrs G. and P. Anderson of Inverness, in which a whole chapter treats of the ancient and modern state of the burgh of Inverness, Murray, London, 1834. 12 INVERNESS-SHIRE. bank, a little to the westward of the former, and which continued ever after to be held by some of the more powerful chieftains of the neighbourhood for the king, as a royal house or garrison, down to the year 1746, when it was blown up by the troops of Prince Charles Edward Stuart. It was under the protection of this second castle (the eastern outer screen or rampart of which is still partly standing) that the/ houses of the burgh were gradually congregated, consisting, with the exception of a few larger buildings belonging to the neigh- bouring gentry, even at no very remote period, for the most part, of cottages thatched with heather and straw, and which, being oc- cupied by a colony of foreign traders, (chiefly Flemish,) were con- stantly exposed to depredations and frequent burnings, by the marauding clans of the west coast, as well as to the severe exac- tions of the governors of their own castle. It was, however, the wise and uniform policy of the sovereigns to encourage the growth of such mercantile communities, as well for the general prosperity of the country in regard to commerce, as for a check on the exor- bitant power of the nobles, and as abounding in loyal subjects fa- vourable to personal liberty, industry, and peace. Hence, besides being frequently favoured with the presence of royalty, whether for the purposes of amusement, dispensing justice, or overawing and suppressing the rebellions of the northern chiefs, Inverness was early endowed with many privileges and immunities. It was erect- ed into a royal burgh by David I., and was styled by him one of the " loca capitalia per totum regnum." William the Lion grant- ed four charters to it, which were confirmed by succeeding mo- narchs ; and James III. conferred a new grant on it, which recites at length eight previous charters. The great charter of the town, however, was conferred by James VI. in the year 1591. These curious documents are still entire and legible, and are kept among the town's archives. Exclusive of the recent improvements in the town and parish, to be afterwards slightly noticed, no event of very great importance to either has occurred since the battle of Cullodenon the 16th April 1746; but, prior to that date, the whole neighbourhood was fre- quently disturbed by bloody clan conflicts and sackings of the town, the particulars of which will be found detailed in the works above referred to, and which are now worthy of remembrance only as indicative of the present happier condition of the people under the regular and impartial administration of equal laws. INVERNESS. 13 Heritors, — The parish contains about seven or eight principal heritors, whose estates in it yield each from L. 1000 to L. 2000 a year, while there are about 25 proprietors with smaller rentals. Registers. — The records of the proceedings of the kirk-session extend back to August 1602, between which year and 1655 they were irregularly kept; and afterwards down to 1673 no minutes vjiave been preserved. Since then, they are pretty regular, and registers of marriages and baptisms are kept separately, and lat- terly with great care and accuracy. Antiquities. — Our limits prevent us from doing little more than barely enumerating the objects of antiquity in this parish, and this is the less to be regretted, as they are fully described in the more recent works to which we have already referred. Commencing on the west side of the parish are seen, 1*^, the rocky eminences above the village of Clachnaharry (signifying the watchman's stone,) and on which in ancient times the magistrates of Inverness had a guard stationed to give notice of any hostile approach from Ross- shire or Strathglass. This spot is further marked by a large column erected by the late H. R. Duff, Esq. of Muirtown, com- memorative of a desperate battle fought here (a. d. 1333,) be- tween the Clanchattan and the Munroes of Fowlis. 2rf, The summit of the hill near the base of which these rocks occur, is crowned with the celebrated vitrified fortress of Craig Phadric, which is double walled, the ramparts exhibiting heaps of boulder stones strongly cemented together to the depth of three or four feet by fire, and which commands within sight of it a chain of si- milarly vitrified structures, about ten in number, extending in every direction into the central districts of the county, and by means of which signals by beacon fires were in ancient times carried across the island to the opposite coast. * 3(f, Below it is the detached hill, already alluded to, called Tomnahurich, or the Watchman's Hill, some of the fields adjoining being called Balliefearie, or the Watch- man's Town, and which, besides being thus a " ward hill," was also celebrated in the olden time, according to local belief, as the fa- vourite and chief resort in the north of the tiny race of fairies, and was further used by grosser mortals as a great moat, or gathering hill, on various occasions of public importance. The magistrates of Inverness used also in ancient times to patronise horse-races run round its base. 4^A, Close by, and a little to tRe west of, this cu- * The height of Craig Phadric has been often greatly overstated as exceeding 1 100 feet. Its barometrical elevation above the sea is only 4d5 feet. 14 INVERNESS-SHIRE. rious mount, is a high gravelly ridge called Tor-a'-Bhean, from its containing the cairn or sepulchre, according to some, of an early monk called Bean or Benjamin, but more likely of Donald Bane, an Hebridean chief, and leader of a body of islesmen, who, in 1187, encountered a party from the Castle of Inverness, headed by Dun- can Mackintosh, son of the governor, who, as well as his principal opponent, is said to have perished in the conflict. Part of this ridge is encircled with ditches and ramparts, as if it formed an ancient hill-fort, and at its base, along which the Caledonian Canal has been carried, a massive silver chain was discovered in the year 1808, consisting of thirty-three circular double links, neatly chan-* nelled round with a prominent astragal, and terminating at either end in two rings larger than the others, which were about two in- ches in diameter, the whole weighing 104 ounces, and extending to eighteen inches in length. This relic, now, we believe, in the possession of the Antiquarian Society in Edinburgh, was probably an ornjiment or ensign of office of the island chieftain. The estate of Bught, of which Tor-a'-Bhean is a part, is called in Gaelic Kil a Bhean or Bean's burying-ground. 5 having in front of it the Exchange, with the ancient Town Cross and Clach-na-cuddeny or " Stone of the Tubs," the palladium of the burgh, and on which the predecessors of the present race of maid-servants were wont in ancient days to rest their water-pails in passing to and from the river; — the Jail, built in 1791, to which is attached a remarkably handsome spire 150 feet high ; — the Aca- INVERNESS. 17 demy for the education of youth, endowed by Royal charter in 1793;-7-Raining's charity school ; — the oU grammar school or hos- pital, a bequest to the community in 1668 by Provost Alexander Dunbar, which is now used as a library, lady's school, and for several other public purposes. Near the top of Church Street is a high plain building, erected by subscription, and called the Northern Meeting Rooms, which contains an elegant ball-room and dining-room. The area of Cromwell's citadel is now occupied by a large hemp manu- factory, which has existed there since the year 1 765. There is also a woollen one in the town, and the parish contains three breweries and one distillery, with several water-mills, and one wind-mill, all of which are built of stone and lime. Neat villas, with gardens attached to them, are yearly increasing about the town. III. — Population. The population of the town and parish in the year 1 791 was 7980 1801, 8732 1811, 10,7.50 1821, 12,264 1831, 14,324 In the last census, 9663 belonged to the town ; and of the whole population about 529 families are chiefly employed in agriculture ; 1015 families in trade; and 1766 are not included in either of these classes. The number of inhabited houses in the town and parish is about 2130. With the burghs of Forres, Nairn, and Fortrose, Inverness returns one Member to Parliament; and its registered constituency the first season after the passing of the Reform Act amounted to 466; in 1834 it amounted to 489, — the constituency within the old royalty, entitled to vote for the election of burgh councillors, being at the last election 408. The gradual increase of population shown above exceeds a little the general ratio of increase throughout the kingdom, in conse- quence of Inverness having been resorted to by a great number of labourers during the formation of the Caledonian Canal, and now by the poor tenants and cottagers removing to it from the country. The average number of baptisms for the last ten years is 360 ; of deaths about 300 (though in 1832 and 1834, the ravages of cho- lera no doubt increased that ratio), and the marriages amount to about 106 a year. None of the nobility, except Lady Saltoun, reside in this parish ; but, in consequence of the increase of building in and about Inver- ness, the cheapness of living, and some of the country residences being occasionally to let, a considerable resort of strangers, gene- INVERNESS. B 18 INVERNESS-SHlRE. uerally of medium incomes, has taken place to this district of late years. We have been unable to procure data for ascertaining the pro- portions of bachelors, widowers, and unmarried females, in this densely peopled parish. Among the labouring classes marriage is almost a matter of pecuniary convenience ; for a man in narrow cir- cumstances finds it more economical to marry than to keep a ser- vant, and, if a widower with daughters, it is seldom the case that they choose to live long with him, as they are better fed and cloth- ed by going into service, or marrying for themselves, so that second and even third marriages by the same individual are not uncom- mon. The average number of children in each family is about 4, and, from the emigration of males abroad in quest of occupa- tions, and their fondness for a military life, there is, and it is thought there always has been, a considerable excess of females resident in this parish. Indeed, from Dr Cleland's population re- ports for Scotland, it would appear that when the census of 1821 was taken, the proportion o[ females above males was higher in In- verness than in any other town in the country, excepting Greenock. At that time there were in Inverness, 7001 females, and 5263 males, and if we suppose that, under the age of twenty, the sexes were equal, which the county returns prove them on the whole to have been, there would be then in the burgh under twenty years of age, 3500 fe- males, and 3500 males; leaving above twenty years of age, 3500 fe- males, and 1 763 males. Now, if one-third of the males above twenty be held as unmarried, which is a rather large proportion, and two- thirds to be married, (that is 588 of the former class, and 1175 males of the latter,) their will remain 2325 females above the age of twenty unmarried, to 588 males above that age unmarried, — a proportion nearly of 4 to 1 ! A similar result will be found appli- cable both to Greenock and Inverness, if the previous returns for 1801 and 1811 be similarly scrutinized. Language^ Customs^ Sfc. — In the remoter parts of the parish, and by some of the poorertlasses in town, the Gaelic language is exclu- sively spoken, but it is fast wearing out, and by the rising generation English is almost universally preferred, especially in the town of In- verness, where many of them are wholly ignorant of Gaelic There is nothing remarkable in the features or bodily strength or exercises of the inhabitants ; and, although the games of foot-ball, shintie, throwing the stone, hammer, and bowls, were formerly common among the lower orders, no amusements of the sort are now prac- INVERNESS. 19 tised, except among boys and apprentices on Christmas and New- year's day, — the sober realities and industrious habits of the present age having seemingly banished from the thoughts of the peasantry the pastimes of their forefathers. Pauperism has undoubtedly increased in the town of Inverness of late years; and a recent survey, occasioned by the distress arising from cholera, demonstrated#that there are about 800 per- sons (many of them having families) in Inverness in extremely in- digent circumstances. The habits of the lower orders in regard to cleanliness and in- dustry are daily improving, as are also the comforts of their cot- tages and household furnishings. On Sundays they all appear well dressed ; in town, more tastefully, and, but for the present cheapness bf manufactures, in some instances it might be thought rather expensively. The upper classes enjoy all the comforts and elegancies of life as fully as their equals in any part of the king- dom to whose manners their own are now assimilated, — the purity and correctness of their language, in particular, having been re- marked since the residence of Cromwell's troops in Inverness, as superior, and but little affected by the common broad dialect of Scotland. Labourers and farm-servants generally live on potatoes with milk, oat and barley-meal prepared in various ways, — to which the wealthier tradesmen are enabled to add fish and butcher-ineat. The general rate of ploughmen and farm-servants' wages is L. 8 in money, and 6 bolls of meal, with liberty to plant as much ground with potatoes as they can manure ; and, in common, female field work is reckoned about two-thirds of the value of a man's labour. Superior servants or grieves have higher wages, and perhaps grass and foddering for a cow, according to the extent of the farms under their charge. All classes are increasing in knowledge and intelli- gence ; and, while the upper are well educated, the inferior orders are pressing rapidly on them in all kinds of intellectual attainment; and although the increase of population in Ihe town has here, as elsewhere, been accompanied with a corresponding increase of vice, yet the moral character of the parishioners generally, as compared with that of other places, is high, — their attendance on church being exemplary and regular. There are generally about six illegitimate births in the parish yearly. 20 INVERNESS-SHIRE. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — In the western and higher parts of the parish, in the districts of Aberiachan and Caiplich, and the heights of Doch- four and Dunain, cultivation has been sparingly and in patches carried up to an elevation of perhaps 800 feet above the sea. In the vale of the Ness, the large and regularly fenced fields are little elevated above the bed of \\m river; and behind them, on the southern side, the terraced bank already noticed rises to the height of 90 feet, and stretches back to the base of the sandstone ridge of the Leys, with a flat or gently undulating surface, from one to one and a-half or two miles in breadth. The subsoil is universally a porous gravely the superior soil being generally sharp or sandy ; and hence, from the absence in many parts of the pa- rish of a due proportion of clay, the cultivated land, though warm and early, can scarcely be denominated rich, or favourable to the growth of large forest trees requiring deep loams. The number of acres under cultivation is supposed to be from 8000 to 9000; waste perhaps 3000; improvable about 1000, (there being scarcely any undivided ground) ; while the rest of the sur- face is under heath, or beautifully and usefully covered with woods of Scotch fir, and thriving plantations of larch, ash, elm, beech, and oak. Rent of Land, — The average rent of cultivated ground is from L. 1 to L. 2, 10s. per acre, except in the close vicinity of the town, where it fetches from L. 5 to L. 7 an acre. There is little or no ground set for grazing. Rate of Wages^ Sfc. — The rate of wages is from Is. to 2s. a- day to labourers, and from Is. 6d. to 2s. and 3s. for artisans. The prices of implements of husbandry and household furniture vary much, according to the kinds and qualities ; but generally, a good cart costs from L. 8 to L. 9 ; a wooden plough L. 2 ; but the plough most in use is formed of malleable iron-work, and costs from L. 4 to L. 5. The chairs and tables used by labourers are of common fir deals, and very plain, the former costing from 2s. to 6s. or 8s. ; but there is a regular gradation upwards till we find ar- ticles as finished and fashionable as are made in Edinburgh or Lon- don. The price of a rood of mason work is L. 1, 16s. ; and when scaffolding is required L. 2 or L. 2, 2s., or L. 8, including mate- rials per rood of ruble work ; and of carpenter work for roofing and sarking, 6d. to 8d. per yard; flooring and joisting, lOd. to Is. per yard ; pannelling, 6d. to 8d. per foot, and so on as to the other INVERNESS. 21 parts of a building. About 100 families are supported by sawing timber. Price of Provisions^ Sfc, — Good beef sells in Inverness at from4d. to 5d. per imperial lb. ; mutton, from 3d. to 5d. ; veal, 2id. to 5d. ; pork, of which no great quantity is exposed, on account of the de- mand for cured pork for export and shipping, 3 Jd. to 4id. There is an abundant supply of excellent haddocks, which sell at from three to six for 6d.; cod, from Id. to Is. a piece, according to the size and quantity ; superior skate, 3d. to Is. each ; herrings vary much in price, as boats only occasionally leave the fishery ground to dispose of this fish so far up the frith, — they sell at from ten to fifty for6d.; salmon are as high as Is. to Is. 6d. per lb., — the salmon fishers being under an engagement to send almost all that may be caught to the London market; grilse sell for 5d. Fowls, Is. 6d. to 2s. a pair; chickens half-price; ducks Is. 4d. to 2s. a-pair; geese and turkeys from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. each. Potatoes gene- rally 2s. per cwt. Shop goods sell pretty much as in other pro- vincial towns. House rents for the better classes are moderate, averaging from L. 15 to L.50, and shops the same. The wages of house-maids are L. 1, 10s. to L. 3 per half year — average L. 2. There are generally several country houses to let in the neigh- bourhood of Inverness at from L. 30 to L. 200 a-year, furnished and unfurnished, and with garden ground, office-houses, and grass parks, and other accommodations. Live-stock. — The breed of cattle common in this parish is a mixed one of the old Highland, Morayshire, and Ayrshire kinds, and considerable attention is paid to their improvement, both for the dairy and butcher. A five years' rotation of crop- ping is generally observed, and the system of husbandry followed is of the most improved description. Within the last twenty years a great extent of waste land has been drained and reclaimed, and much ground planted ; but none of any consequence has been irrigated or embanked. Husbandry. — The general duration of leases is for nineteen years, though some do not exceed fourteen, or even seven years ; and now, instead of allowing meliorations for improvements in buildings^ proprietors are beginning to erect office -houses themselves or their farms, charging the tenants with a yearly per centage on the outlay. Most of the heritors farm portions of their own estates, which are provided with excellent accommodations, — superior, of course, to the more plain but substantial squares of offices posses^ 22 INVERNESS-SHIRE. sed by the tenants. The fields are generally enclosed either with stone and mortar walls, or stone dikes without cement, or with hedges and rows of forest trees. Quarries. — Fresh water shell marl is found and dug out for manure in several parts of the district, especially on the estate of Essich ; and that of Nesscastle, in the parish of Dores, adjoining the other, abounds in this substance ; but there are no mines in the parish, and but a small number of quarries wrought, the red and gray sandstones of this neighbourhood being much inferior in compactness, hardness, and beauty to those brought by sea from Munlochy and Redcastle in Ross-shire, and to the white and yel- low freestone of Covesea, in the shire of Elgin. Fishings, — Salmon is the only fish caught within the bounds of the parish, the sea shore being unproductive, except occasionally that a few small herrings and cuddies^ or coal-fish, are got. For- merly the salmon fisheries in the Ness were extremely productive, and in ancient times their fish were known as luxuries in many ci- ties of the continent. Persons are still alive who recollect having seen eighty salmon taken at one cast of the net ; but, owing to causes not well understood, the value of the fishery has greatly decreased within the last thirty or forty years, so that what then fetched a yearly rent of L. 1 100 is now let for L. 370 ; and, we understand, the tacksmen are calling for a further reduction of the sums conditioned to be paid by them. Produce. — In the absence of authentic data, we have consulted agriculturalists, who regard the rental of the parish as about L. 20,000, and the whole yearly produce ought hence to be some- where about equal to L. 60,000. Taking the rotation to be five years, consisting of two white crops, one green, and two hay crops, the result will be that two-fifths of the produce are corn, and the remainder green or soft ; and, supposing both of nearly equal value, we have about L. 24,000 worth of com, and L. 36,000 of green crops. The annual produce of gardens and of the thinnings of plantations is inconsiderable. Manufactures. — Formerly a good deal of linen yarn and worsted thread was spun for the supply of home consumpt in this parish, but this is almost wholly superseded by the produce of the great manufacturing establishments of the south. Two hemp manufac- tories, for the making principally of coal and cotton bagging, ex- isted for a considerable time in Inverness, one of which was dis- continued some years ago. The subsisting establishment, occu- INVERNESS. 23 pying the area of Cromweirs fortress, employs about 110 men, 150 women, and 20 boys and girls, who work from ten to twelve hours a day, and earn, the men, from 4s. to 10s.; the women, from 2s. to 3s. 6d. and the children from Is. 6d. to 2s. a-week. For- merly, nearly double the number of persons just stated were em- ployed. These work people are in general healthy ; some of them have been long lived, and, in point of morals, they are not in the least inferior to the rest of the population in the town and parish. The hemp employed in this factory is imported from the Bal- tic, and is manufactured into cloth for bags, sacking, and tarpau- lin, chiefly for the London market, and the East and West Indies. In the woollen manufactory, for the weaving of coarse clothing and Highland plaids and tartan, there are employed from 20 to 25 persons, of different ages, from ten years and upwards, who earn from 3s. to 15s. a-week. The proprietor of it has also a carding-mill for the preparation and spinning of wool ; and there are also in the town and parish three tan- works, supporting a small )i umber of artisans. Navigation and Commerce. — Inverness in ancient times posses- sed a large share of the scanty commerce of Scotland. Boethius, who wrote full 300 years ago, states, that in ages long before " a concourse of German merchants annually resorted to the town for the purposes of trade," bringing with them the manufactures of their own nation, and taking away in return quantities of skins and other products of the Highlands ; but that, owing to the frequent burnings and plunderings to which the town had been subjected, its prosperity had been greatly impaired. Buchanan confirms this statement, and it would appear that, even for some years subse- quent to the final union of Scotland with England, the merchants of Inverness carried on their import trade with the ports of France and Holland, transferring it to that of London, only as convenience and the cheapness of British manufactures drew their attention to that great mart of commerce. Wine and ale were formerly more abundantly used in the Highlands than spirituous liquors; and, until the general introduction of tea, the trade in malting was a considerable one in Inverness, as in most of the northern burghs. Some of the old and large malt kilns and granaries used for it are still in existence. Weavers and glovers formed two of the incor- porated trades in the old set of the burgh, and these were for- merly numerous and rather influential bodies. In regard to trade, Inverness is now the centre of the Custom- 24 INVERNESS-SHIRE. house district, which extends from the mouth of the Spey to the Dornoch Frith on the east coast, and from Assynt Point to Ard- namurchan on the west. The tonnage of all the shipping belong- ing to the district is about 7200 tons, and the number of vessels 150 : the port of Inverness possessing about one-half of the ves- sels and nearly two-thirds of the tonnage. The west coasts of Ross-shire and Inverness-shire, with the Isle of Skye, possess about 1000 additional tons of shipping, and about 36 vessels. In- verness has six vessels, of about 130 tons burthen, regularly trad- ing with London, of which one sails from and to London every eighth day : with Leith it has three traders, and with Aberdeen two. Ship-building has recently been commenced here by one or two enterprising individuals with great spirit. A striking altera- tion has of late taken place in the trade in grain : within fifteen years, about 8000 to 10,000 bolls of oatmeal used to be imported to Inverness ; while now, from 4000 to 5000 bolls of oats are ex- ported from its piers. From Easter Ross and the vicinity of In- verness and Beauly, from 30,000 to 40,000 quarters of wheat are annually shipped, and large quantities of grain are exported from Caithness. About 100 cargoes of mixed goods are delivered in the course of the year at the port^ of the Moray Frith, lying be- tween Speymouth and the Dornoch Frith, from London, Leith, and Aberdeen. These supply the greater part of the counties to which the ports belong. The total coasting imports in this dis- trict are supposed to be about 60,000, and foreign imports about 1000 tons, and the coasting exports to be about 70,000 tons, con- sisting of wood, wool, grain, and hemp cloth. The foreign an- nual imports into Inverness consist of from 400 to 600 tons of hemp, and three or four cargoes of timber and Archangel tar. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — Inverness is the only market-town in the parish, and since the date of the last report, it has increased considerably in the style and number of its buildings, as well as of its popula- tion. Besides a more efficient system of police, and due attention to cleanliness, — during the year 1831, a great iniprovement in the paving of the streets was commenced. The whole have been causewayed anew with granite and hard sandstone, or quartz rock, from the banks of Loch Ness, and the side pavements laid with Caithness flag, while common sewers have been constructed under- neath the streets. These highly useful measures were effected by means of an assessment of 6d. per pound on rents, — the total ex- INVERNESS. 25 pense exceeding L. 6000. The town is exceedingly well lighted with coal gas, and supplied with water in pipes from the river. The original cost of the gas works, which are very complete, in- cluding the expense of forming the company, and procuring an act of Pariiament, was L. 8757 ; that of the water-wheel for raising the water from the river, and pipes, L. 4872. Certain parts of the pro- fits have been laid aside to pay the interest of borrowed money, and to form a contingent fund in case of unforeseen demands ; but since the year 1828 the company has paid dividends to the share- holders, which have gradually increased from 1^ to 4^ per cent. Subscriptions for the formation of this company were commenced in 1825. Villages. — The only villages in the parish are those of Clach- naberry, at the " Watchman's Stone," above-mentioned, about a mile to the west of the town, containing about 300 inhabitants, chiefly fishers and boat-builders, — and Culcabock village, one mile to the south-east of Inverness, which is occupied by about 100 la- bourers and masons. Coaches and Public Conveyances — Besides a four-horse daily mail-coach to Aberdeen on the one hand, and to Dingwall, Tain, and Thm-so on the other, two daily coaches proceed from Inver- ness on the coast road to Elgin and Aberdeen ; one twice a-week, and in certain seasons daily, to Perth by the great Highland road, and Diligences occasionally ply in summer between Inverness, Strathpeffer, and Cromarty, through the adjoining district of Ross- shire, called the Black Isle; and to these means of conveyance are to be added the steam and sailing vessels above described, and carriers by land in almost every direction. Caledonian Canal, — In this part of the statistics' of the parish, it would be improper to omit a short sketch of the history and di- mensions of the Caledonian Canal, which passes through the centre of the parish and Great Glen of Scotland, and the beneficial effects of which on the general commerce of the country, and the local improvement of this district, have scarcely as yet fully developed themselves. The subject of the Caledonian Canal, and connected with it va- rious other extensive improvements in the Highlands of Scotland, having been brought under the attention of Government, a prepa- ratory survey and report of the whole was made by the late Mr Telford, by command of the Lords Commissioners of the Trea- sury, in the autumn of 1802, and in September of the followvw^ 26 INVERNESS-SHlRE. year, the cutting of the canal was partially commenced ; but it was not until the year 1805 that the works were put in full operation. The north-eastern portion of the canal, as far as Fort- Augustus, was opened for navigation in the summer of 1818, a regular pas- sage between Inverness and Fort Augustus was established by means of steam-boats in 1820, and on the 23d and 24th October 1822, the first voyage was made from sea to sea. Since this period it has been regularly navigated, with scarcely any interruption, al- though not completed to the full extent of the original design, which contemplated a depth of 20 feet water. The depth at pre- sent afforded is 15 feet, — a further deepening of the summit level being the principal work required to attain the former depth, as almost the whole of the buildings and banks are constructed of the full dimensions to receive it The total expense of construction has been about one million of pounds Sterling, to which is to be added the expense of maintenance, since the opening of the navigation. The latter has hitherto exceeded the produce of the tonnage rates, which are extremely moderate. The canal extends about eight miles from the tide lock at Clachnaharry, to the north-east end of Loch Ness, being all in the parish of Inverness. It ascends in this distance a height of about 46 feet. The whole length of the canal from sea to sea is 62 miles, of which 40 miles pass through natural lakes (Loch Ness, Loch Oich, and Loch Lochy,) and there are 22 miles of cutting. From the singularly uniform direction of these lakes, and of the valley which they partially cover, the whole length of the canal when extended on a map, measures only four miles longer than a straight line drawn from one extremity to the other. There are twenty-eight locks on the line, fourteen ascend- ing to, and fourteen descending from, the summit level in Loch Oich, which is about 95 feet above ordinary high water at Inver- ness. The dimensions of the locks are 170 feet in length by 40 feet in width ; and the whole of the other works are on a scale of proportional magnitude. The present rate of tonnage duty levied on sailing-vessels or steam-boats, laden or unladen, passing along the canal in either direction, is one farthing per ton per mile, there be- ing no dues chargeable upon goods of any description. The pro- duce of these extremely low rates has averaged form L. 2000 to L. 3000 per annum ; and the aggregate tonnage passing through, inclusive of the steam-boats, may be rated at about 30,000 tons. Immediately on the opening of the canal, a regular communica- INVERNESS. 27 tion was established, and has since been maintained between In- verness, Glasgow, and the west coast, generally by means of steam- boats, and with all parts of the United Kingdom, for the ordinary carrying trade by means of sailing-vessels, which import all the pro- ducts of the south to the Highlands, and carry away timber, wool, grain, and the produce of the northern fisheries. For all these purposes the Canal presents important facilities, and would na doubt be much more frequented than it is, were steam tug boats established to insure at all times a speedy passage through the lakes, — the delay and uncertainty at present from adverse winds being sometimes considerable* The communication between Inverness and Liverpool through this canal, and directly with London by the German Ocean, is now about to be completed by steamersof a large size ; while with Aberdeen and Leith it has been open by steam for several years back. A company, indeed, has been formed, who intend, in course of next summer (1835,) to run a steam ship of 240 horse power between Inverness and London, touching at all the ports of the Moray Frith; and a powerful ves- sel already plies to Liverpool. The chief effect of the canal, so far as regards the town of Inverness, has hitherto been the com- mencement and gradual formation of a direct intercourse with the great western marts of Glasgow and Liverpool, and through them with the manufacturing districts with which these cities are so close- ly connected. Roads, — The principal roads which radiate from Inverness and intersect the parish in different directions, are under the manage- ment of the Parliamentary Commissioners for Highland roads and bridges, — a body appointed for opening up the communication by land, much about the same time that, under similar management, the Caledonian Canal was projected. They form portions, 1*^, of the great south road by Fort-George to Elgin and Aberdeen; 2rf, of the Highland road through Badenoch and across the sum- mit of the country to Perth ; 3rf, of the Old Military road along the south side of Loch Ness to Fort- Augustus and Fort- William ; 4^A, of the road along the north side of Loch Ness by Urquhart to Glenmoriston, Glenshiel, and Skye ; bth^ of the great north road by Beauly to Dingwall and Tain, and 6/A, the short piece of road to Kessock Ferry, which connects Inverness with the neighbour- ing parts of Ross-shire. The whole of these lines were either Military roads, improved and widened under the direction of the Commissioners, or originally constructed by them, with the aidoC 28 INVERNKSS-SHIRE. contributions from the county proprietors ; and they are maintain- ed under a system of the most efficient repair by the same means which effected their formation. The expense is defrayed in about equal proportions by Government aid and county assessment, the latter being of late years considerably relieved by the produce of tolls, which have been established on several of the roads. The other roads contained in the parish, which are of subordinate im- portance, are under the management of the district proprietors, as trustees, and are maintained by general assessment originally im- posed by virtue of certain local statutes, which were consolidated in a new act of Parliament passed 29th May 1 830. The expense of re- pairs on the parliamentary roads in the neighbourhood of Inverness, where the traffic is considerable, averages from L. 10 to L. 15 per mile. Bridges, — There are two bridges across the River Ness. One of stone with seven ribbed arches, erected in 1685 by contribu- tions throughout the kingdom, at a cost of L. 1300 ; and one of wood, finished in 1808, from public and private subscriptions, and which cost L. 4000. A pontage is levied at both bridges from strangers. Two small but beautifully wooded islands in the Ness, a mile above the town, are now in course of being connected with the opposite banks by airy chain suspension bridges, the interior being laid out in walks ; and when this improvement is completed, (one of the bridges has been in existence for many years, and funds have been recently collected for the other,) Inverness can boast of a set of public promenades almost unequalled for extent, variety, and beauty of scenery, by those of any town in the kingdom. Harbours, — Three harbours have been erected near the mouth of the river at different times, the lowest of which admits vessels of 250 tons burthen; while large ships have exellent anchorage ground in Kessock Roads, or can receive and deliver ofoods at the Caledo- nian Canal wharfs within a mile of the town. Churches and Ecclesiastical Affairs, — Both the parish churches are in the town. The High Church, in which English alone is preached, was built in 1772, and is a large plain building attached to an old square tower, said to have been erected by Oliver Crom- well, and is seated for 1800 persons. It is, however, found too small for the increasing congregation, and the erection of another or additional parish church is contemplated. The Gaelic church, which is properly the parish church, and in which Gaelic alone is preached, was erected in 1794, and contains about 1200 sitters, INVERNESS. 29 the poor having access to it and the other building gratis. It is provided with an old and elegantly carved oak pulpit. The other congregations in Inverness are, of Episcopalians about 150 mem- bers ; Seceders, 100 ; Independents,* including a few Baptists, 50 ; Methodists, 50 ; Roman Catholics, 230. The ministers of some of these congregations are paid by their flocks, and others are understood to be partly assisted by societies in the south. In 1798, a Chapel of Ease was erected in connection with the Esta- blished church, capable of containing 1100 sitters, the minister of which is supported by his own congregation alone. The Established clergy are three in number, the patronage to the first and third livings being vested in the Crown, — that to the second in Mr Eraser of Lovat, who also claims a vice-presentation of the first charge. None of the ministers have manses, but the first and second re- ceive a very trifling yearly sum, being the interest of the sums for which the old manses with the gardens attached to them were sold many years ago as ruinous, the Court of Session having decided, after a long and expensive litigation, that the heritors were not obliged to rebuild them. They also have each about four acres of glebe land, which they set for gardens, and on parts of which the tenants have erected many substantial houses. These yield at present each about L. 80 a year. The stipends of the first and second charges are 19 chalders of grain, with L. 10 for commu- nion elements ; and the stipend of the third minister, which is partly paid from the holders of the old Bishop of Moray's rents, and partly by Parliamentary grant, is L. 200, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. A parish catechist is employed, who is paid from the collections at the church doors, the rest of which, after paying beadles, &c. are appropriated to the poor, and for whom also there are four special quarterly collections in the year. The number of communicants in the two parish churches varies from 800 to 900, and in the chapel of ease from 300 to 350. Education and Societies. — The local Bible Society here for se- veral years collected an annual fund from L. 100 to L. 140, but its meetings have been discontinued for some time. It has sup- plied, on two occasions, every family in the parish with Bibles. Inverness Education Society. — In 1818, a society was institut- ed under the name of the " Society for Educating the Poor in the * The occasional sitters in these Seceding, Independent, and Methodist chapels augment considerably the usual attendance, the numbers stated being of those in full communion with each congregation. The numbers of Episcopalians and Roman Catholics given, include men, women, and children. 30 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Highlands," which erected a central or model school in Inverness of a large size, and which is generally attended by about 300 scho- lars. It has been of much use to the poor of the town, especially of the suburb on the Green of Muirtown, and the society's opera- tions extend beyond it to the establishment of schools in the more remote and thinly peopled parts of the Highlands, twelve of which sort it supports at present ; and towards the maintenance of schools already existing, and supported partly by local funds, by giving a small aid or allowance to the teacher. In these aid schools, which have been of incalculable use in encouraging the efforts of the people, the society has under its protection upwards of 1000 chil- dren during the winter half of each year. The sums expended by this society for the education of the poor, from its institution in 1818 to the 30th September 1834, amount to L. 8023. Raining* s School^ 6fc. — In the year 1747, Mr John Raining of Norwich bequeathed L. 1000 for building and endowing a school in any part of the Highlands the General Assembly should ap- point. The Assembly fixed on Inverness, and soon afterwards de- volved the management of the school on the Society for Propagat- ing Christian Knowledge, transferring the residue of the money to that body. At present it is conducted, as it has been for many years, by two excellent teachers, (having under their charge about 250 pupils,) on salaries of L. 48 and L. 40 a-year besides their lodgings and gardens. The society last mentioned support two other schools in the landward part of the parish, allowing to the teachers salaries of L. 17 and L. 15 a-year. The suburb of In- verness called Merkinch has also been supplied by subscription with a large public school for the poor, which is attended by from 200 to 300 scholars. There is also a school at Dochgarroch, sup- ported by the Committee of the General Assembly ; and both in the town and country there are many private elementary schools, (besides an infant school opened in the year 1832, and which is generally attended by about 90 children,) in some of which the classics and the principles of geography, mathematics, and naviga- tion are taught There are also several ladies' day and boarding schools in Inverness ; and the Sabbath evening schools for religious instruction in the burgh are attended by about 450 children, there being likewise a few of the same description in the landward part of the parish. In the year 1792, an academy was opened in Inverness, for the education of the families of the upper classes in the Highlands ge- INVERNESS. 31 nerally, as well as of the town and neighbourhood, the funds for that purpose having been collected by subscriptions at home and abroad ; and its directors, consisting of the magistrates of Inver- ness, the sheriff of the county, the moderator of the presbytery of Inverness, with five commissioners of supply, to be named annual- ly by their own body, subscribers of L. 50, and the heirs of sub- scribers to the extent of L. 100,. or upwards, being incorporated into a body corporate and politic, by royal charter. The old gram- mar school of Inverness has merged into this institution, to which the burgh transferred its annual grant for the support of the for- mer, and it is generally provided with from four to six teachers, includ- ing a rector, whose salary, besides a free house and garden, amounts to L. 90, and the other teachers' salaries from L. 30 to L. 40 a- year. All the branches of a good commercial and classical edu- cation are taught in this seminary, with the elements of mathema- tics and philosophy, there being a prospect also of the natural sciences being added to the branches taught, in consequence of a society established in the year 1825, and denominated the Northern Institution for the Promotion of Science and Literature, having made over to the academy directors their valuable museum of books, an- tiquities, and objects of natural history. For some years this aca- demy was the only seminary of the kind to the north of Aberdeen ; but, in consequence chiefly of similar institutions being opened in many of the neighbouring towns, the numbers attending it have somewhat decreased, the average amount of pupils being formerly upwards of 300, while at present it is only attended by from 200 to 250 scholars. Inverness, thus already more amply provided than many other towns with the means of education and improvement, has been further enriched by a munificent bequest of L. 10,000, 3 per cent, consols, left by the late Rev. Dr Bell, the ingenious author of the Madras system of education, and committed by him to the charge of the magistrates of Inverness, who contemplate, we understand, erecting another large charity school, and relieving the Education Society of the burthen of supporting their central or model school on the Green of Muirtown. Libraries^ §*c. — Besides its scientific and literary institution above-mentioned,- Inverness has also a mechanics institution, a va- luable parochial library, under the direction of the kirk-session, se- veral subscription and circulating libraries, two public reading- rooms, several printing-presses, two weekly newspapers, and four banking-offices. 32 INVERNESS-SHIRE. By an estimate of the state of education in this parish made in 1826, and published in the " Moral Statistics" of the Inverness Society for Educating the Poor in the Highlands, it appeared that at that time there were in this parish of persons from eight to twenty years of age who could not read, 1007, and above twenty years of age unable to read 1444. It is believed these numbers are now greatly reduced. The total number of scholars attending school in the parish in the course of a vear is about 1800. Infirmary. — In the year 1804, the large and handsome Infir- mary, already mentioned, was opened here, with a Lunatic Asylum attached to it, for the use of the northern counties of Scotland. Its accommodations are extensive and elegant : the rooms and wards are large, well- ventilated, and clean, and, from the recent addition of hot and cold baths, and several new rooms, and the entire se- paration of the maniac department from the rest of the establish- ment, this institution is surpassed by none of the same description in Scotland. The buildings were completed by subscription pro- cured chiefly through the exertions of the magistrates of Inverness, and more especially of William Inglis, Esq., many years provost of the town, and a man of uncommon activity, enterprise, and zeal for the public good. The institution is now under the manage- ment of the body just mentioned, joined to the Established minis- ters of the parish ; the moderator of the presbytery ; the sheriff of Inverness-shire; five commissioners of supply chosen annually; donors of L. 50, and upwards ; annual subscribers of L. 5 ; certain medical gentlemen ; and five persons annually elected at a gene- ral meeting of the whole managers. This hospital has a small in- vestment in money, but is chiefly dependent for support on private subscriptions and parochial collections throughout the Highlands. The annual expenditure was at one time about L. 700. Now it is considerably below that sum, and, while it would appear that the cost of each patient until his cure or dismissal was at first on an average L.4, 14s. l|d., it has since the year 1820 been reduced to the average of L. 2, 19s. 3d., and in some years did not exceed the very small sum of L. 2 ; — an expenditure clearly establishing the beneficial effects of union, economy, and co-operation, in af- fording relief to the diseased poor. From the institution of the hospital in 1804 up to the 20th December 1833, the number of patients (including those in the town of Inverness, who received advice and medicines in their own houses, and manaics,) amounted INVERNESS. 33 to 9247. A house-surgeon, a miitron, besides nurses and keepers, and the male and female-servants, constantly reside in the Infirmary ; and the medical managers in Inverness give their attendance gratis by rotation. Dispensary. — In 1832 a Dispensary was opened by subscription on the Green of Muirtown, for bestowing medicines gratuitously to the sick poor, and it has proved of much use, especially during the visitations of cholera. Friendly Societies. — There are at present nine Friendly Societies in Inverness, the average rates of contribution to which are from is. 6d. to 2s. per. quarter, with 10s. to 15s. of entry money, and a small extra contribution on account of the expense of a member's funeral. When ill a member receives from 3s. to 5s. a week ; but if he is disabled from work for more than six weeks he then gets a quarterly allowance proportioned to the state of the funds, which it is believed are not at present increasing. When prudently and honestly managed these societies have certainly done good. Savings 5awA.— There is no savings bank receiving deposits from the industrious poor at present, — a circumstance much to be regretted. It was discontinued on the death of the individual who latterly conducted it. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The Sunday collections for the poor average in the year amount to L. 100; four special quarterly collections at L. 42, to L. 1 68 ; rents of kirk-session lands, and in^ terest of money left by charitable persons for the parochial poor, L. 192 ; total, L. 460 ; out of which, besides providing for burials, orphans, and other contingencies, the kirk-session furnish pecuniary assistance to about 310 paupers, by stated weekly or quarterly al- lowances, varying from 6d. a week to L. 1 and L. 2 a year.* The magistrates of the town have also several charitable mor- tifications at their disposal, the interests of which are laid out for the poor. The lesser charities amount to L. 717. A fund left by the late Mr Jonathan Anderson of Glasgow, for the support of decayed householders, is now worth L. 3845. A German of the pame of Klien, in 1803, bequeathed a sum for the same purpose, of L. lOOO; and Captain William Mackintosh of Farr, and of the Hin- dostan East Indiaman, left a fund for the education of boys of the name of Mackintosh, of the families of Farr, Holm, Dalmigavy, and * Distributions of coals and meal are also occasionally made in quantities not ex- ceeding a shilling's worth to each applicant, the number so assisted being from 700 to 800 persons. For about fifteen of the last twenty years, from 200 to 400 poor have received broth from a soup kitchen supported by public subscription. INVERNESS. C 34 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Flichity, at the Inverness academy, now worth about L. 28,218. The annual products of these charities vary according as they are invested in the town's funds or Government securities. There is no compulsory assessment for the support of the poor ; and we trust there will not, as it would probably increase pauper- ism, by encouraging the habits which lead to it. Prisons. — The ancient jail of Inverness consisted only of a single damp dingy vault, in one of the arches of the stone bridge, and which (subsequently used as a mad-house) was only closed up about , fifteen years ago. It was succeeded by another prison in Bridge Street, which, from the notices of it in the burgh's records, must also have been a most unhealthy and disagreeable place of confine- ment. Tlie present jail was erected in 1791, and cost L. 1800, the spire having cost about L. 1600 more. Besides prisoners for debt, all those charged with crimes from the northern counties are sent here previous to their trial before the circuit courts of Jus- ticiary, which sit at Inverness twice a-year. Although a great im- provement at the time of its erection, this prison is now found to be too small and very inconvenient, there being no proper classi- fication of delinquents, while there is no open court or yard for them to walk in, nor can any manual employment be required of them at present. There is no bridewell or poors-house in this pa- rish. By the subsisting law the expense of the jail's support falls on the magistrates of the burgh, who are also answerable for the safe custody of the prisoners ; but the heritors of the northern counties contemplate the erection of a new jail on the Castlehill, on a large scale, and under a more modern system of prison dis- cipline. Unless subjected to some manual labour or solitary con- finement, it seems questionable whether the superior accommoda- tions of modern prisons do not render access to them, in many cases, a privilege rather than a punishment. Fairs. — ^"Anciently all classes of the community depended much for the supply of necessaries on the public fairs, held in such towns as Inverness, and which were in consequence attended by great crowds, the merchants' booths being kept open for weeks together. At present there are four great fairs held in the year at Inverness for the sale of dairy produce, and of manufactured goods, and coarse household stuffs, made by the Highland women in the neigh«> bourhood ; but the establishment of shops throughout the country has greatly diminished their importance, and the magistrates of the town, to avoid the rioting and intemperance which sometimes INVERNESS. 35 encroached on the quiet of Sunday, have lately curtailed the mar- ket time of each fair from the forenoon of Wednesday to the after- noon of Friday. The show of horses and cattle at the Inverness fairs is now much less than it used to be previous to the establish- ment of several cattle trysts in the neighbourhood. In the month of July, however, in each year, a great wool-market is held in this town, at which the principal Highland sheep-farmers, from all the northern counties, are wont to meet the south of Scotland and English wool-staplers and agents, and at which sales to the extent at least of 100,000 stones of wool are annually effected, besides numerous exchanges among the sellers and drovers from the south of their various kinds and ages of sheep, which exceed in amount 100,000 carcases a-year. The prices fixed at this fair generally regulate those of all the other markets in the country, as well as the subsequent sales of the farmers who are not present at it ; but these prices fluctuate so frequently, from causes little understood, that we do not conceive it necessary to quote them ; and, indeed, the prices of past years are not found to influence those of the next season. Besides the markets now alluded to, every Tuesday and Friday are ordinary market days in Inverness for butcher-meat, eggs, poultry, and farm and garden produce ; and on a certain day every half year there is a fair on the Exchange of Inverness for the hiring of farm-servants. /nn«.— Inverness has been long celebrated for the excellency of its inns — the Caledonian hotel especially being inferior to none in Scotland. Besides the accommodation of parlours, and large sit- ting-rooms, and a spacious ball-room, Mr Wilson, the keeper of the hotel, can make down upwards of eighty beds, and insure private lodgings in town to such strangers as require them. His coach and posting establishment is also great The number of licensed inns and alehouses is 52 in the burgh, and 19 in the landward portions of the parish.. Fuel. — Ck)als from Sunderland and Newcastle, and a small quan- tity of Scotch coals from the coal basin of the Forth, constitute the principal fuel in Inverness. Wood is not extensively used, but peats, employed principally for kindling coal-fires, are brought to town from the upland districts, and sell from Is. to Is. 6d. the small cart load. Coals sell from lOd. to Is. 6d. the barrel of two heaped imperial bushels. January 1835. UNITED PARISHES OF i URQUHART AND GLE NMORISTON. 1 PRESBYTERY OF ABERTARFF, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. JAMES DOUNE SMITH, MINISTER.* / I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The meaning of the word Urquhart is now unknown ; but as there are several parishes of that name in the Highlands, Urquhart on Loch Ness was anciently called Urchudin Cill ma Chrossan, as being the residence of Saint Crossan or Crostan, and latterly as Urchudin Thiama Ghrant, or the Laird of Grant's Ur^ quhart. Glenmoriston or Glenmore^EssaUy " the glen of the great waterfall," derives its name from the beautiful cascades on the river which flows through it, of which those near the mouth are the largest and most picturesque. Anciently, the parish of Glenmoriston was united to that of AbertarfiF, and it is believed that it was when the latter was con- nected with Boleskine that the former was joined to Urquhart. Since the suppression of Popery, at least, the two parishes have had but one minister, the glebe and parish church being situated at Kilmore, on the margin of the bay of Urquhart, a portion of Loch Ness, being thus placed at the extremity of the larger but more populous district of Glen Urquhart. Extent and Boundaries. — This exquisitely beautiful parish, which is more varied in mountain, hill, and dale, lake and stream, *^ the warbling wood, the pomp of groves and garniture of fields,** than perhaps any other in the Highlands, is about 30 miles long, and in general from 8 to 12 miles broad, though the extreme breadth along the northern bank of Loch Ness, from the confines of Aberiachan to Invermoriston, extends to about 15 miles. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Inver- ness, Kirkhill, and Kiltarlity ; on the east by Loch Ness ; on the south by the united parishes of Boleskine and AbertarfiF, and part of Kilmonivaig; on the south-west by the parishes of Glenshiel and • Drawn up by the Rev. J.D. Smith and George Anderson, Esq. Inverness. URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 37 Kintaii in Ross-sliire ; and on the west and north-west by the dis- trict and alpine valley of Strathglass, which lies in the parishes of Kilmorack and Kiltarlity. Topographical Appearances, — Glen Urquhart and Glenmoris* ton, which are the only transverse valleys branching ofiF from the north side of Loch Ness, form the principal and most populous divisions or portions of this parish, the rest being high and moun- tainous, and resorted to only for pasture, and peat, which consti- tutes the natural fuel of the district. These glens, proceeding in a south-west and nearly parallel direction, are respectively about nine and twelve miles long, and are separated by high heathy hills, which terminate immediately above Loch Ness, in the great round- backed mountain of Maulfuarmhonvie^ or Mealfuarvofiie^ (lite- rally, the height or lump of the cold moor,) whose dome-shaped summit attains an elevation of 3200 feet; while, in the opposite direction, these valleys usher us to the plain of Corrymony and the ridges overhanging Strathglass on the one hand, and on the other to the great moorland or table-ground which stretches around Loch Cluany and the bases of the peaked mountains of Kintaii. Glenmoriston, except near its mouth, where it is flat and deeply sunk among the high steep pine and birch-clad hills which rise ab- ruptly on both sides of it, is an inclined valley, expanding in width as we ascend, and displaying in great extent and luxuriance the pounded forms and lively green of a birch forest, which stretch far up the mountain sides from the dark and mingled masses of native pine, oak, and roan-tree lining the rocky banks of the impetuous torrent, which forces its tortuous course along the centre of the glen. It is hence but little cultivated, and the district is almost exclusively a pastoral one. The lower parts of the valley, indeed, are almost entirely covered with birches, and towards the interior the hills are crowned with noble woods of the Scotch fir or pine. Urquhart, on the other hand, expands first from the waters of Loch Ness into a beautiful semicircular plain, divided by regu- larly shaped fields and hedge-rows, and having all the hill sides above it beautifully diversified by woods and cultivated grounds, where persevering labour is seen overcoming all the obstacles of situation and climate, and carrying tillage to a great elevation. By the course of the river Coiltie^ which waters the southern side of this plain, the receding and smaller sized stripes of corn ground are seen extending into the natural domains of the birch tree and brown heath of the upland pastures ; while the Enneric water o^. 38 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the weist leads the eye past the white walls of the large and ex- cellent inn of Dnimnadrochit, (which corrupt word signifies " the height above the bridge,") beyond which a reach of two or three miles of haugh land (affording room for some of the best farms in the district, and the site of its most populous hamlets,) conducts to a rocky pass or gorge : on turning this we attain the upper or inland valley of Urquhart, which is almost circular, its centre being occupied by Loch Meikly, an elegant sheet of water, (about one mile long, and half a mile broad,) from the edges of which arise the green and highly improved lawns and cultivated grounds of Lakefield and Lochletter. Over a heathy ridge beyond these we reach, two or three miles farther on, the flat of Corrymony, which is adorned by some very large ash and beech trees, and where cultivation has been successfully introduced to a consider- able extent, at a distance of twenty-five miles from the sea, and at least 800 or 900 feet above it. Meteorology and Hydrography. — The parish, from its inland si- tuation, partakes of a mixed climate, intermediate between the ex- cessive moisture of the west coast and the cold dry atmosphere of some of the eastern counties, — the piercing blasts in spring which proceed from the German Ocean being less severely felt here than in the low country. The district is hence, on the whole, very heal- thy, and some of the inhabitants attain extreme old age. The line of junction between the primary and sandstone rocks described below is distinguished all round the parish by unusual- ly great excavations and undulations of the ground, which, being partially filled with rain-water, have given rise to an almost continu- ed chain of tenw, or small lakes or marshes in the higher districts ; and these being bordered with rushes and belts of the white and yellow water-lily, form the nestling places of large flocks of wild fowl. Of Loch Ness, the south-eastern boundary of the parish, no description need be given here, as an account of it more natu- rally belongs to another parish. At the base of the upper accli- vity of Mealfaurvonie, which is perpendicular on the north and south sides, nearly so on the west, and connected by a long taper- ing^ ridge with the rest of the mountain on the east, a small circu- lar lake exists which was once thought to be unfathomable, and supposed by the credulous neighbours to be united under ground with Loch Ness, but which has now been found to be compara- tively shaHow. From its western extremity it discharges a small streamlet called AuUsigh or « the Resting burn," which, tumbling URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 39 down along a rocky channel at the base of one of the grandest frontlets of rock in the Highlands, nearly 1500 feet high, empties itself into Loch Ness within three miles of Invermoriston. This burn constitutes the boundary between Urquhart and Glenmoris- ton ; and, besides the magnificent rocky and woodland scenery with which its course is lined, it is farther worthy of notice as display- ing near its mouth an unusually beautiful waterfall, and another equally fine one about two miles farther up, shaded with foliage of the richest dye. On the summit of the hill to the west of the burn, there is a rocking-stone, which two persons can move, about twenty feet in circumference. This burn's parent lake is also supposed occasionally when swol- len to send off a streamlet towards the north ; or, at least, the hol- low or rather deep ravine which collects the infant waters of the Coiltie, which flows along the southern margin of the vale of Ur- quhart, begins very near the northern extremity of this loch. The Coiltie, from the elevation of its springs, is a most rapid and sometimes dangerous rivulet, which carries down enormous masses of stone that choke up its channel, and cause it to overflow its banks, and destroy, not only the corn-land, but sometimes also houses and bridges. A tributary of this water, called the Divach^ amid beautiful and dense groves of birch, displays a waterfall as high and picturesque as that of Foyers ; and near the source of the Enneric river, which flows from Corrymony into the still basin of Loch Meikly, another smaller, though highly picturesque cascade, called the Fall of Mo- raU is to be seen. Near it, is a cave capable of receiving sixteen or twenty persons, in which several of the principal gentlemen of the district for a time concealed themselves from the Hanoverian soldiers after the Rebellion of 1745. The Falls of Divach are sel- dom supplied with a sufiiciency of water to give them that decided grandeur which they possess when the rivers are in speat^ as their swollen state is significantly called; but then the mountains sides are everywhere streaked round with foaming cataracts, which disappear on the return of fair weather. The burn which falls from Abe^ riachan on the confines of the parish of Inverness, displays a suc- cession of beautiful perpendicular falls and running cataracts; and that of Avdtguish^ (or the Fir-tree burn,) in the forest of Ruisky, eastward of Aultsigh, presents a continuous cataract, which, from the lake below, looks like a long white ribbon streaking the moun- 40 INVBRNESS-SHIRE. tain side, and part of which consists of a single leap at least 100 feet high. Geology. — The whole neighbourhood of Loch Ness seems for- merly to have been subjected to great volcanic action and large eruptions of granite ; and although this parish does not exhibit much granite en masse, yet its primitive rocks everywhere display the intrusion of various sets of granitic veins. At the summit of Glenmoriston, and around Loch Cluany, a beautiful white porphy- ritic granite, with large distinct crystals of felspar, occupies an extensive tract of country. Beneath, in the glen itself, and along both sides of the river Moriston, stratified gneiss prevails ; but at the eastern boundary of Urquhart, on the confines of the parish of Inverness, another large deposit of whitish granite occurs, which constitutes several of the hills encircling the moss of Caiplich, and is connected with the red granites of Dochfour and Aberiachan, described in the account of the parish of Inverness. From behind the farm of Polmailly in Glen Urquhart, a formation of unstrati- fied Serpentine rock proceeds in a north-west direction, constitut- ing three prominent summits, with several subordinate ridges, and extending 2^ or 3 miles in length, and about 1 mile or 1^ in breadth. It is distinguished by the dirty-brown colour of the surface, and the extreme sterility of the hills formed of it, — the serpentine here as elsewhere permitting but few trees, and hardly a blade of grass, to grow upon it. No beds of chromate of iron or other useful mine- rals have as yet been discovered in this deposit, which, however, has not been minutely examined, nor has the serpentine been po- lished or employed as an ornamental stone. It is contained in strata of gneiss, which abound in beds of gray and white primitive granular limestone, which is partially burnt and used for domestic purposes by the farmers of the district. The limestone contains very beautiful and numerous suits of actynolite, tremolite, and asbestus; besides which, several varieties of mica, hornblende, and bronzite, are occasionally found, — the hornblende also occurring, both massive and slaty, and highly crystallized, in beds of various sizes, and discovered generally in contact with veins of granite. But the most important rock, in a geological point of view, in this district, has yet to be noticed. It consists of a great over- lying and unconformable deposit of old red sandstone and its asso- ciated coarse conglomerate, and constitutes the summits next to Loch Ness, and the lower and more fertile portions of the vale of Urquhart. This deposit has been superimposed on the gneiss URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 41 rocks, and upheaved in very many places from its original horizon* tal position by the granitic invasion from below. To what extent the altitude of Mealfaurvonie may be owing to granitic displace- ment we have no means of determining ; but it is remarkable that the great upper dome or rounded summit of this mountain, which is elevated, as already noticed, 3200 feet above the sea, is one en- tire mass of conglomerate rock, (the abraded portions consisting of granite, gneiss, mica-slate, quartz rock, and sandstone, cohering together almost without any basis or cement,) and that the strati- fied sandstone at its base has been so indurated, probably from the influence of a subjacent but contiguous mass of granite, as in many places to have lost its distinctly stratified disposition, and to have acquired so hard and crystalline a texture as has rendered it fit to be used as a causeway stone for the streets of Inverness. The hardened variety has sometimes been described as quartz rock. This enormous sandstone deposit is now disjoined from the simi- lar rocks which composed the eastern termination of the Great Glen by Loch Ness, and the granitic hills of Caiplich and Doch- four; but when surveyed from Mealfaurvonie the conglome- rate ridges of Foyers and Balliechemock, described in the Ac- count of Dores parish, appear once to have been connected with it ; while on the north, across the valleyof Urquhart, the junction with the main eastern deposit of sandstone is completed through the upper braes of Kiltarlity. We have mentioned that the portion of Glen Urquhart next Loch Ness consists of the stratified sandstone and its associated conglomerate. Of the latter, almost all the eminences which sur- round it are composed ; and beneath their rough and bare sum- mits a broad plateau, gently declining towards the centre of the valley occurs, — on the inner lip or edge of which the sides of the glen sink rapidly down, showing that the bases of the higher summits were at one time washed by a great body of water, which rested on the plateau just mentioned, and which subsequently dis- charged itself by the trough below forming the present course of the river Enneric. In causing these excavations, the waters ap • pear to have encountered three principal barriers ; one now open- ed into Loch Ness, at the mouth of the valley, one stretching across from Craigmony, a little to the west of Drumnadrochit, and one at or above Dalshangy, where the separation between the upper and lower valleys is still visible. Several beautiful terraced banks, indicative of more recent ef- 42 INVBRNESS-SIIIRE. fects of water, encircle the vale of Urquhart on all sides, of which two are particularly distinct, (being elevated about 20 and 50 feet respectively above the level of Loch Ness,) and which, from their horizontal surface and smooth sloping sides, furnish fine banks for young plantations, and picturesque sites for cottages. The soils in this parish, though light, are on the whole warm and productive, and, from the prevalence of secondary rocks, rather more clayish than is common in Highland districts. The subsoil is (except where peat mosses have been reclaimed) universally gravel, more or less porous, and with which every hill side and every valley has been strewn over by ancient currents of water to a considerable depth. There are no metalliferous mines in the district, and no beds of lime quarried to any great extent, — the burnt lime of England, from the want of coals here, being on the whole to be got nearly as cheap as the local deposits could be wrought. Boulder, or loose field stones, are much used in the construction of houses and en- closures, and the only extensive quarry in the district is one which was opened in the sandstone (inclining to quartz rock) of Ruisky in front of Mealfaurvonie, and not much above the edge of Loch Ness, for supplying with large stones the works of the Caledonian Canal at Fort Augustus. It has not been used for some years, except to furnish paving or rather causeway stones for the streets of Inverness. Botany, — The banks of Loch Ness, and especially the portion between the bay of Urquhart and Invermoriston, are distinguished for the richness and variety of their vegetable productions. The space just mentioned contains the old forest of Ruisky, the top of which consists of native pine trees, with oaks, ashes, and hoary hawthorns, stretching in detached stems and clumps along the pre- cipitous rocks, and which, descending below, mingle themselves with the dense woods of birch which cover all the lower acclivities to the water's edge. The sloe, holly, guelder-rose, trembling poplar, alder, mountain-ash, or rowan-tree, with long trailing brambles, and the largest sized white and red rose bushes, increase the variety and beauty of the foliage, and when mixed with hazel and rasp bushes, create an almost impassable copse. Here and there are seen some enormous indigenous elms and gean trees ; and throughout the dis- trict the beautiful white flowering bird-cherry or hackberry, as it is called, (Prunuspadus), is most abundantly distributed, and attains an uncommonly large size ; while the gardens and pleasure-grounds URQUHiVRT AND GLENMORISTON. 43 at Invermoriston, Balmacaan, Polmailly, Kilmore, Lakefield, and Corrymony, show that the soil and climate are adapted for the growth of the finest larches, planes, sycamores, beeches, walnuts, and all sorts of fruit trees. In Ruisky are to be seen the remnants of the larger sized birch trees, which are now become scarce in the country, many of the trunks being 5 or 6, and a few even 8 or 9 feet in circumference. Their wrinkled and hoary branches sup- port great quantities of parasitic mosses and lichens, and the green sward around them abounds in an unusual variety of wood and meadow plants ; but the moors scarcely attain a sufficient elevation * for the support of the truly Alpine flora. Even Mealfaurvonie, notwithstanding its great height, hardly shows any Alpine plants, except Saxifraga aizoides^ Hieracium alpinum^ and Alchemilla aU pincu Among the rarer small plants of the parish may be enumerat- ed Adoxa moschntellina^ Agrimonia Eupatorium, Betula nana^ Cir" cea Lutetiana et alpina, JEpilobium anffustifolium. Geranium luci-^ duntj Habenaria viridisj albida et bifolioj Paris quadrifolia^ Pyrola medioj minor^ et secunda^ Saxifraga hypnoides^ Vaccinium oxycoo cosf Arbutus alpina. The bogs and peat mosses abound in trunks and roots of oaks and fir trees, greater in size than are now seen in the native forests, and when these cannot be dug out in large pieces, they are split up for fire wood. Ahimah. — The only wild animals now found in this district are, the fox, badger, polecat, weasel, and wild-cat Tradition, and some faint notices in old chronicles, assert that the beaver as well as the wolf inhabited the sides of Loch Ness. The capercaillie or cock of the wood, (Urogallus vulgaris^) was seen in Glenmoris- ton, and the neighbouring hills of Strathglass, about seventy years ago, but is now quite extinct. Red-deer, roe, black and red grouse,, ptarmigan, with brown and white or Alpine hares, still abound on all the estates in the district. Goats were formerly numerous, but they have of late been greatly discountenanced, as injurious to the woods and plantations. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — The state of property, and the history of this dis- trict in ancient times, would be utterly unknown, but for the few gleams of light thrown on them by the annals of the Castle of Ur- quhart, one of the chain of fortresses (several of them royal) which, from the earliest times, stretched across the Great Glen from Inverness to Inverlochy, and secured the country from foreign invasion, and the excess of civil discord. In the present &kA<5A\-> 44 INVERNESS-SHIRE. therefore, this castle merits our first regard. Perched on the west- ern promontory of Urquhart bay, it overhangs Loch Ness, and is built on a detached rock, separated from the adjoining hill, at the base of which it lies, by a moat about 25 feet deep, and 16 broad. The rock is crowned by the remains of a high wall, or curtain, sur- rounding the buildings, the principal of which, a strong square keep of three stories, is still standing, surmounted by four square hang- ing turrets. This outward wall encloses a spacious area, and is in some places terraced ; and in the angles were platforms for the convenience of the defending soldiery. The entrance was by a spacious gateway, between two guard-rooms, projected beyond the general line of the walls, and was guarded by more than one mas- sive portal, and a huge portcullis. These entrance-towers are much in the style of architecture peculiar to the castles of Edward I. of England ; and in front of them lay the drawbridge across the outer moat The whole works were extensive and strong, and the masonry was better finished than is common in the generality of Scottish strongholds. They could have accommodated 500 or 600 men. The first siege Urquhart Castle is known to have sustained was in the year 1303, when it was taken by the officers of Edward L, who were sent forward by him to subdue the country from Kil- drummie, near Nairn, — beyond which he did not advanbe in per- son ; and, of all the strongholds in the north, it was that which longest resisted the efforts of his arms. Alexander de Bois, the brave governor, and his garrison, were put to the sword. Sir Ro- bert Lauder of Quarrelwood, in Morayshire, was governor of the castle, A. D. 1334, and maintained it against the Baliol faction. His daughter, marrying the laird of Chisholm in Strathglass, the offspring of their union, Sir Robert Chisholm of that ilk, be- came laird of Quarrelwood in right of his mother, and constable of Urquhart Castle in right of his grandfather. After this period, it is known to have been a royal fort or garrison ; but it is very likely it was so also at the commencement of the fourteenth cen- tury, and existed as such in the reigns of the Alexanders, and other early Scottish sovereigns. A gentleman in Inverness is in possession of an original charter of this Sir Robert Chisholm to the church of the Holy Cross, in Inverness, of certain lands near the town, dated on the feast of the Epiphany, 1362. In 1359, the barony and castle of Urquhart were disponed by David 11. to William Earl of Sutherland and his son John. URQUHART AND GLENMORlSTON. 45 Subsequently it was held for the king by the great family of Grant of Freuchie, now styled Grant of Grant, who obtained pos- session of most of the lands around it, constituting the domains of the castle, as the crown's chamberlains ; and finally, in the year 1509, when King James IV. was empowered by .Parliament to set out in feu-farm the Royal lands, both annexed and unannexed, he granted three charters of the lordship of Urquhart and baronies of Urquhart and Glenmoriston, in different portions, to John Grant of Freuchie and his two sons, from the latter of whom are descended the families of the Grants of Glenmoriston and Corty- mony. On the brow of the hill fronting Loch Ness, and near the ham- let of Bunloit, there is a small vitrified fort called Dunscriben, which communicated with similar signal stations at the east end and centre of the great Caledonian valley; and about two miles west of the castle in Glen Urquhart rises a very prominent rocky hill, styled Craigmoni, which was partly encircled on the summit with rude walls of stone, and on which, tradition says, the ancient bea- con fires were lighted, besides its being used as the gallows hill of the old castle. In Argyleshire, a tradition prevails that a Danish or Norwegian prince of the name of Moni having landed in the dis- trict of Crinan, (still known as the pass of Moni,) and laid waste the country, was afterwards attacked by the native inhabitants, who routed his troops, and pursued him and a few of his followers, who with difficulty regained their ships, and fled northward towards Lochaber. Having reached Craigmoni, and established himself in the adjoining valley, still called Dalmoni, this son of the king of Lochlin or Norway, as he is styled in the country, seems afterwards to have been driven farther up into the interior, and to have perish- ed at Corrymony or Coiramhoni, the valley of Moni, where his grave ( Uai Mhoni) is still to be seen. The beautifully exposed and fine sloping grounds on the east side of the bay of Urquhart were early brought into culture, and belonged to the order of Knights Templars, or the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, some of whom were probably constables of the adjoining king's castle, and founders of a small religious house which stood on the point still called Temple, on the farm of Saint Ninians. The public burying-places in this parish were all probably formed round the shrines of saints or ancient chapels ; and in Urquhart there is one at Kilmore, the great burying-ground, within which the 46 INVBRNESS-SHIRE. present parish church stands; one at CilUSantninianj near Temple; one at CiUtnhichaelj a short distance west of Drumnadrochit; and another in the height of the country at Corrymony, called Claodh CkurtdaTii the burial-place of Curidan. In Glenmoriston, the se- questered and picturesquely lying burial place called Clachan au Inair^ that is, the burying-ground of the lower district, is situated at the mouth of the valley, and another higher up is denominated, in honour of an old saint, Clachan Merechardy the word Clachan, literally a stone, being the distinctive appellation for a fane or church. Numerous sepulchral cairns and circles of upright stones or ancient Pagan temples exist in the district, but none so large as to merit a particular description. Connected with antiquities, it is necessary to be borne in mind, that, owing to the inaccessible state of the country, and to the dis- tance at which the chiefs of the clan Grant resided from it, this district was, till after the suppression of the Rebellion in 1746, in a very unsettled and rather lawless condition. At that time, also, the population was beginning to be excessive, and the resident gen- try, from the want of employment for the young and daring minds with whom they were surrounded, had such di£5culty in keeping them in subjection, that by some the breaking out of the Rebellion was regarded almost as a relief to their restlessness. But if such was the state of the districts bordering on the lowlands, those far- ther to the west were still more unhappy and unsettled ; and the in- habitants of Urquhart, who, besides the tending of cattle, had also begun to devote themselves to agriculture, were exposed to fre- quent depredations from the clans inhabiting the districts around Glengarry, Loch Eil, and Kintail. It may be added, that the burn of Aultsigh was, in the early part of the seventeenth century, the scene of a conflict, which is one of the most memorable connected with the parish, betwixt a party of the Macdonells of Glengarry, and the Mackenzies of Ross-shire. This has been commemorated in a celebrated pibroch called " the Raid of Cill- Christ," said to have been composed by the Glengarry piper during the conflagration of the church which oc- casioned the conflict Land-owners. — The heritors or absolute proprietors of the lands in this parish are. Sir Lewis Alexander Grant of Grant, Baronet ; Earl of Seafield, whose seat in this district is at Balmacaan, in the lower valley of Urquhart ; James Murray Grant, Esq. of Glenmo- riston and Moy; Patrick Grant, Esq. of Lakefield; and Thomas URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 47 Ogilvie, Esq. of Corrymony ; all of whom have residences on their estates. Pvblic Work. — About sixty years ago a manufactory for linen cloth, and for instructing the youths of the neighbourhood in Eng- lish reading and the principles of the mechanical arts, was opened at Invermoriston, in a set of buildings erected for the purpose. Wea- vers and spinners, with a schoolmaster and mistress, or governess, were brought from the low country, and the management of the business was committed to a Mr Shaw of Inverness; but after a few years trial, the scheme was abandoned, without having materially promoted the purposes intended. It deserves to be remembered, however, as several attempts of a similar description were made much about the same time in various parts of Inverness-shire and Ross-shire, and which, unquestionably, had some effect in introducing the arts and industrious habits among the Highlanders. No other public work or manufactory exists at present in the united parishes, except a distillery recently commenced at Inver- moriston. III. — Population. 'I'he population in the parish of Urquhart in 181 1 was 1944 Glenmoriston, 689 2633 Urquhart in 1821, 2180 Gienmoriston, 608 2788 Urquhart in 1831, 2383 Glenmoriston, 559 2942 ITie decrease in the district of Glenmoriston has been occasion- ed by emigration, consequent on the introduction of sheep-farming, to the partial exclusion of cattle, — that district of the parish having at no time been capable of supporting an agricultural population. Tlie yearly average of births for the last seven years has been 82, and of marriages, 17. The register of baptisms is now regu- larly kept ; but there is none of deaths. Language. — Gaelic is still universally spoken in this parish, though many even of the poorest inhabitants have acquired a know- ledge of the English language, which is daily gaining ground. Character of the People, — The people are a hardy industrious race, and, from the recent suppression of the trade in smuggled whisky, there is no doubt of their morals being in the course of improvement. Many of them marry young, notwithstanding that they are extremely poor. Their attachment to their landlords is 48 INVERNESS-SHlRE. still very great ; and we have no doubt, that, were occasion to re- quire it, the families of Grant of Grant and Glenmoriston could easily muster on their own estates, as they did during the last con- tinental war, a numerous and most active and intrepid body of sol- diers, willing to follow wherever their superiors would lead. IV. iNDUSTRjr. Agriculture. — In the district of Urquhart farming is carried on according to the most approved system of the south, and it would be useless to recapitulate here the particular features of it. The lands are now well limed, and produce crops of wheat, sown grasses, barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips ; besides a considerable quan- tity of meadow hay obtained from the natural wet pastures. Al- most all the wheat raised, with a considerable portion of the oats, is in general sent to market to Inverness, but is occasionally ship- ped at Temple direct for London ; and for some years past a con- siderable quantity of potatoes has been exported for the London market, * Besides the cattle kept in the low grounds, there are betwixt 20,000 and 21,000 sheep supported on the hills of this parish. V. — Parochial Economy. Hamlets, — There are no towns in this district, but in Glen Ur- quhart there are several hamlets of labourers, with a few trades- men, most of whom, besides working in the fields as hired ser- vants to the neighbouring farmers, have small crofts or gardens of their own. The principal hamlet, called Milntown, contains about 36 cottages and 150 inhabitants, including women and children. The other small scattered hanilets may, in all, contain about 115 inhabitants. Means of Communicatioiu — Till towards the close of last cen- tury, the roads in the Highlands generally were exceedingly bad, and those in this parish were no better than bridle tracks. Soon after the year 1760, a better sort of road (but in many places wanting drains and parapets) was commenced between Inverness and Drumnadrochit by Loch Ness side, and, by dint of persever- ing exertions in applying the proceeds of the local statute labour money, and private subscriptions, aided by grants from the county of Inverness, it was at length completed, and even prolonged over the shoulder of Mealfaurvonie to Glenmoriston, where it ceased till the communication with the west coast was opened up through * The writer r^rets that he has not been able to obtain an accurate account of the agricultural produce of the parish. 4 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 49 that valley by the Parliamentary Commissionersi appointed in the beginning of the present century for the formation of roads and bridges in the Highlands. Portions of the old road may still be seen winding along the impending rocky cliffs above Loch Ness ; and, although few travellers would now a-days trust themselves on such a promenade, persons are still alive who recollect that it was a day of great rejoicing in the district when three gentlemen of Ur- quhart were first enabled to ride abreast all the way from Inverness. A branch of this district road was conducted up to the top of the glen at Corrymony, and another off-shoot across the hill of Coille Shallach (or the boggy copse) into the valley of Glenconvinth, thereby communicating with the Aird and the post-road from Ross-r shire. Both of these district roads are at present kept in good repair. The southern boundary of the parish is now skirted all along by the new Parliamentary road, which proceeds from Inver- ness by the north side of Loch Ness, through Glenmoriston to Kintail and Skye. Its surface is excellent, but it is in some places rather narrow, too steep, and in need of continuous parapets. Portions of it were excavated out of the solid rock at great ex- pense and labour, the under side being propped up with high walls and buttresses. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church, which stands in the lower part of the valley of Urquhart, within about half a mile of Loch Ness, was built in 1630. It is rather an ill constructed house ; and, although repaired in 1814, is in so dilapidated a state, (besides being inadequate to accommodate the people who attend,) that it will be necessary to make immediate application for a new and larger building. The minister officiates here two Sundays out of three, and the third at Miklie, six miles up the glen, where a commodious chapel or meeting-house was built about six years ago. There is a missionary minister settled in Glenmoriston by the Committee for Managing the Royal Bounty, — who preaches alternately at Invermoriston and in the upper part of the glen, at each of which stations there is a comfortable meeting-house. Both Gaelic and English are preached in the different places of worship within the parish, — with the exception of the one in the braes of Glenmoriston, where there is seldom occasion for service in the latter language. There are no Dissenting or Seceding chapels in the parish, the inhabitants all belonging to the Established church, with the ex- ception of 55 individuals of the Roman Catholic persuasion in INVERNESS. D 50 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Glenmoriston. The people are regular in their attendance on divine ordinances ; and the number of communicants at present on the roll is 108. The stipend is 16 chalders, half barley and half meal, with L.8, 6s, 8d.' for communion elements. The glebe consists of about six acres of arable land, and about half an acre of pasture. The manse was built in 1800; and, having been repaired about seven years ago, is in tolerable condition. Education. — By the Parochial School act, the heritors of exten- sive Highland parishes being allowed to divide the salary into two or three parts, advantage was taken of this clause in regard to Urquhart and Glenmoriston ; and, in consequence, there are three parochial schools in the parish, — one within half a mile of the pa- rish church, to which is allotted the half of the maximum salary allowed to schoolmasters ; one at Miklie in the braes of Glen Ur- quhart ; and the third at Invermoriston, — the other half of the sa- lary being equally divided between the teachers of the two latter. There are two schools in the parish supported by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge, — one in Bun- loit of Urquhart, and the other in the braes of Glenmoriston. Besides these, there are three other schools taught by individuals, who depend entirely for remuneration on the school fees. In two of the parochial schools, and in one of those taught by the latter mentioned individuals, Latin, English, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping, are taught; and the fees exacted are from Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. the quarter, according to the branches taught. In the other schools the same education is afforded, with the exception of Latin. In the schools supported by the Society, great attention is paid to the teaching of the Gaelic language ; and in the other schools, it is taught to those who wish to acquire it. The total amount of fees actually paid to the three parochial schoolmasters is about L. 50 per annum. During six months of the year all these schools are well attend- ed. From the 1st of November 1833 to the beginning of May fol- lowing, there were 552 children attending at these different schools; but in the summer months the number is diminished by one-half. The people in general are so much alive to the benefits of educa- tion, that, in the course of a few years, it is supposed there will be few or no individuals between the ages of seven and twenty unable to read the Bible. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF. 51 receiving parochial aid amounts to 60, among whom is divided in different proportions from L. 25 to L. 30, arising from the collec- tions made in the churches on Sundays, and the interest of L. 160 of mortifications. Inns. — At Drumnadrochit and Invermoriston are two excellent inns ; and at Ruisky is a public-house where travellers can bait their horses, and, if required, get a boat across Loch Ness to see the Fall of Foyers, or the wild but beautiful scenery at Inverfar- rikaig. April 1835. UNITED PARISHES OF BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF. PRESBYTERY OF ABERTARFF, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. WILLIAM ERASER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and. Natural History. The period is not very far distant when these two parishes were united ; but the writer cannot at present ascertain the exact date of their union. Abertarff and Glenmoriston had been previously joined together The junction of the former with Boleskine has been injudicious, — there being a hill seven miles long interven- ing between the inhabited districts of the two parishes, and the greater part of the intervening space being, from its height, fre- quently impassable in winter. Names. — In Abertarff, there are two rivers or rivulets which fall into Loch Ness within a very few yards of each other, called the Oich and the Tarff, — the former a considerable stream arising from two pretty large lakes, — the latter, except when swollen by occa- sional mountain torrents, or the dissolution of the winter snow, only a brook, though it gives name to the district of Abertarff. " The parish of Boleskine is so termed," says the writer of the former Account, " from a farm contiguous 'to the Fall of Foyers called Bail^os-cionn, which signifies in Gaelic, the town hanging above the loch," (Loch Ness.) The name appears rather to be compounded of these three words, " Boile^eas-ceannj* " ceann" signifying height, summit, " eo*" a cataract, and ^^boile'^ fury, rage, 52 INVERNESS-SHIRE. madness. Hence Boleskine appears to signify the summit of the furious cascade. The cascade here in view is now extensively known under the name of the Fall of Foyers. Extent^ Boundaries. — The united parish from the N. E. to the S. W. following the course of the Military Road, measures 21 miles. It is of unequal breadth, being partly indented by Loch Ness ; but the average breadth may be stated at 10 miles. On the south it is bounded by the parish of Laggan ; on the W. S. W. by Kilmanivaig ; on the north by Urquhart ; on the N. E. by Do- res ; and on the east by Daviot. There is one farm in the dis- trict of Boleskine which is completely detached from the rest of the parish, and is surrounded by the parishes of Daviot and Dores ; and in like manner there is another farm locally situated within the parish, but which belongs to Dores. Topographical appearances, — The parish of Boleskine embraces a portion of the country called Strath-herric, composed of flat lands interspersed with some undulating banks. Adjoining to the strath there is a great extent of high hill ground, Corry-yearrig ; over which the old military line of road passes from Fort- Augustus to the south ; and adjoining it to the east, a range of equally high hills called Monadhliath. There is a considerable extent of low and flat lands in the pa- rish, favourable in good seasons for the growth of oats, barley and potato crops. Climate. — Boleskine is often parched during the summer months, while Abertarfi* is favoured with fostering dews and gentle rains. The clouds which swiftly fly along the high hills on each side of Loch Ness carrying rain in their bosom to other quarters* disap- point the anxious wishes and hopes of Boleskine, day after day, and are to it literally clouds without rain. The prevailing winds are the W. S. and S. W., — which, from the adjacent elevated hills, acquire irresistible force, and sometimes overthrow houses, and spread havoc among the woods. The climate of Boleskine is, on the whole, severe,— owing to the great number of lakes, to the elevation of the parish above the level of the sea, and to its lofty and extensive chain of hills. The ri- gorous climate, induces rheumatism and pulmonary complaints ; and the spare diet on potatoes, particularly if coupled with a habit of tippling, is thought to occasion the frequent occurrence of dropsy. These are the prevalent distempers of the parish. Hydrography. — There are at least a dozen lakes in the parish, — BOLESKINE AND ABBRTARFF. 53 exclusive of Loch Ness, which is 24 miles long, and averages 1^ in breadth. The depth of Loch Ness in the middle is from 106 to 130 fathoms, and towards the sides from 65 to 75. From its gr^it depth it never freezes. On both sides of Loch Ness, the ground rises to a considerable altitude, and is adorned with ash, oak, fir, and birch. The scenery of this and the other lakes, all of which pay tri- bute to Loch Ness, is wild and romantic. — The rivers in this parish are inconsiderable in point of number, extent, and magnitude ; but they are frequently much enlarged by the autumnal rains and the thawing of the snow in spring. They all fall into Loch Ness. Fall of Foyers. — There are two remarkable cascades in the pa- rish formed by the same river within less than half a mile from one another, and known by the name of the Fall of Foyers. Directly in front of the upper one, there is a bridge of one arch thrown across the river, from which travellers can view it in perfect security. A httle above the cascade, the 'river is very much contracted between two rocks ; and previous to the erection of the bridge, a log was thrown over this chasm, reaching from one rock to the other, sind serving as a bridge to the]more courageous foot-passengers. * Many other views, all of them very interesting, may be had of this fall. Ascending a narrow rugged path on the west side of the river, about 200 feet, to a level eminence, where there are a few dwarfish trees, and looking thence southwards, — the visitor will see to advantage the arch, the cascade, and the abyss below, where the current forces its way over piles of stones and fragments of rocks ; and about a quar- ter of a mile to the south on the high road leading to Fort- Augus- tus there is a charming view of the bridge seen through the branches of the pendant trees. Advancing from the less to the greater fall, the prospect gradu- ally increases in interest The large stones in the channel of the river over which the waters roll and foam, — the weeping birch lin- ing the precipitous banks at irregular distances — the projecting mis- shapen rocks overhanging the tremendous gulf, and the impetuous torrent below-^form a scene that cannot be beheld without admira- tion and awe. There are different positions from which the prin- cipal fall may be viewed to great advantage. One of the best is from the edge of the rock nearly opposite to it on the west side of the river ; but it is believed that strangers are seldom directed to * There is a tradition, that a person who resided in the heights of the country, while in a state of intoxication, passed on horseback along the log bridge in a moonlight night ; and that, having gone afterwards to the place, he was so horror-struck at the peril he escaped, that he returned home, went to bed, and soon after died. 54 INVEBNESS-SHIRE. this spot. The favourite view is from what is called ^^ the green point,*' which fronts the body of the water in its descent ; it is a thin rock projecting forward beyond the common bank, covered with a green sward, almost always saturated by the spray which ascends from the fall, and which, particularly when the wind blows from the north, rises some hundred feet high. The access to " the green point" has now been rendered easy and safe by a footpath made to it„ within these few years, from the high road. Geology. — There is limestone of a good quality both in Bole- skine and Abertarff ; but it has never been wrought to any great ex- tent ; and now lime can be had at as cheap, if not a cheaper rate, from Sunderland, through the Caledonian Canal, than perhaps the native lime could be manufactured and sold at. This at least is true as regards Abertarff, because almost all the tillable lands are nearly on a level with the canal. But it is otherwise with Boleskine, where the arable grounds, with the exception of the place of Foyers, is at the distance of some miles up hill all the way, from the nearest landing-plnce on the banks of Loch Ness, — which deters farmers from UHJng imported lime as a manure ; whereas, were a person, of no groat C4ipital, but judicious and experienced, to obtain a lease of the lime rock, and to manufacture and sell it at the rate that the English lime can be purchased at, this invaluable article of manure would be brought within the reach of every farmer in the parish, and the poorest would avail himself of it. The soil would thereby be enriched, the harvest would be earlier and more produc- tive, and the climate, by means of additional planting, greatly me- lionited. ITie whole of the Boleskine district may be said to be nearly one continued rock of grdnite, both blue and red, but chiefly the former. There is a well in Abertarff, slightly impregnated with iron-ore. The soil, which is from six to ten or twelve inches deep, is not, on the whole, bad ; but is various, partaking of gravel, clay, till, loam, and peat moss. If left but a few years, it is commonly overrun with heath. There is abundance of peat moss over a bed of compact gravel and clay. Zoology. — At one period, the largest deer in Scotland were sup- posed to be in this parish, and the hill called Monadhliath, was their favourite haunt. This hill is covered almost all over with a species of fungus, or that apparently unproductive and useless plant called gray moss, which is the natural provision of the deer, with- out which they cannot thrive. Clover is rich pasture for cattle; but BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF. 55 were the deer confined to it, or to verdant meadows, they would soon die amidst the luxurious abundance. There are still a good many deer in the parish ; but these grace- ful and noble animals, which enliven our lonely heaths, and adorn our barren mountains, are much degenerated and greatly reduced in number and size. They have given way to that homely and ti- mid but more profitable race which contributes so much to our daily food and raiment. The hart and the roe seek their food and shelter in the lower grounds amongst the woods. AH the interior lakes abound in trout, both red and white, of an excellent quality; and some years ago salmon was plentiful in Loch Ness, but since the Caledonian Canal has been opened they have very much decreased. The diminution is partly attributed to steam navigation, but chiefly to* the fry missing their proper course to the sea. Instead of coming down the River Oich, as of old, they de- scend by the canal ; and, its water being smooth, myriads of them fall a prey to the voracious pike, and most of those which escape this foe perish in getting through the locks. Botany. — Oaks, ash, fir, and birch are the sorts of timber most congenial to the soil of this parish. There is only one tree in it known to the writer, remarkable for age, size, or form. It is of that species which, before the invention of artillery, when the issue of battle greatly depended on the bow and arrow, was in so much request. It is a yew growing on the farm of Foirbeg, on the banks of Loch Ness. It is now noticed, however, not on account of its magnitude, for it measures in circumference at the bottom only 14^ feet, and in height 33 feet 6 inches ; but for its antiquity. It has stood for time immemorial. Tradition itself is silent as to its age. Its branches are not so extended and luxuriant as might be expect- ed, because all its visitors, native and strangers, have been strip ping it of these ornaments. II. — Civil History. Land^Otvners. — The chief land-owners are, Mr Fraser of Lo- vat, Mr Fraser of Foyers, and Mr Fraser of Abertarff. Parochial Registers. — In regard to the parochial registers, it may be observed, that in Abertarfl*, a separate, partial, and incom- plete register of baptisms has been kept since January 1737, and of marriages from November 1739, under the management of the successive resident missionary ministers at Fort- Augustus. The present incunibent had at first followed the same plan, and for se-? veral years the registers were correctly kept ; but subsequently, oa 56 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the appointment of another missionary, to whose charge they were given, they were totally neglected for a period of ten years. It is said that, during the long incumbency of the Rev. Thomas Fra- ser, a register of the births and marriages had been kept, but that the person to whom it was entrusted lost it in the act of passing a rapid stream. There is no register of the Boleskine district pre- vious to the year 1798. There are now two distinct ones, kept for both Abertarff and Boleskine, which are regularly transmitted about the first of January, every year, to the incumbent ; and their entries transcribed under his immediate superintendence, according to their respective dates, into one volume. Antiquities. — In the vernacular language of the county, the pre- sent glebe is called " Druim-a-dhampuil," signifying Temple Ridge, it being a ridge on which were the ruins of several Druidical temples of a circular form, the greatest number of which have been removed by the present incumbent, as they were generally placed in the centre of the fields, and interrupted the operation of the plough. There are still some left to exercise the industry and pa- tience of his successor.* There is a farm in Boleskine called ^^ Tom-a-bhoid," and ano- ther of the same name in Abertarfi*, derived from ^^ TW," a green eminence, which describes the local position of both, and ^' modj" an assembly or court, — the term being still appUed to an assembly of persons qualified to administer justice. Each of these farms overlooks the rest of the country. In the Great Glen of Scotland, through which the Caledonian Ca- nal passes, are to be seen the remains, at various distances, of seve- ral vitrified forts ;— of which there is one, on the west, on the farm of Auchteran in Abertarfi*, and another on the eastern boundary of Boleskine, but properly speaking in the parish of Dores, which is there separated from Boleskine by a very small and contempti- ble rivulet. These towers or forts are every where called by the same appellation, namely, ^^ Dungeardal," literally signifyingva pro- tecting eminence, or a guarded fortified hill. They were compact- ed or cemented in a manner more firm, indissoluble, and inde- structible than any modem building, notwithstanding the vaunted improvements made in architecture. Across the hill of Suidh-Chuiman is the great Military Road from Inverness to Fort- Augustus; and on its very summit, within two yards of the road, there is a small cairn, such as is commonly * For some account of the minor antiquities of the parish see MS. BOLESRINE AND ABERTARFF. 57 found where persons have perished from the inclemency of the wea- ther, or died suddenly. It is said that, on this spot, ode of the chieftains of the clan Cummin, so powerful in their day, while on the way to visit some of his dependents, fell sick and died. Modem Buildings. — The only buildings in the parish meriting the slightest notice are those of the garrison of Fort- Augustus. The ground on which this fort is built, and the farm connected with it, were originally part of the Lovat estate, but were appropriated by Government, in the year 1729, for the purpose of erecting a fortifi- cation to overawe some clans who were inclined to disturb the peace of the country, and to restore the forfeited and exiled family of Stewart. The garrison is now become unnecessary and useless ; and Government some years ago ordered the ramparts to be dis* mantled,2and the ordnance to be sent to Fort-George. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1755^ - 1961> 1811, . 1462, 1821, . 2096, 1831, . 1829, The cause of the late decrease of the population may be partly, emigration to America, — which has been occasioned by the intro- duction of the sheep-farming system. There are no towns in the parish, and only two small villages, Cill Chuiman, including the garrison, inhabited by 216 souls; and Balfrishel by 159. The yearly average of births of the Protestant population for the last seven years is . . • - " 88^ of marriages, - - - 14 7 Average number of persons under 15 years of age, - 702 betwixt 15 and 90, - 437 dO and 50, - . 371 50 and 70, - - . 234 upwards of 70, - . . 85 Bachelors upwards of 50 years of age, - - - . 10 Unmarried women upwards of 45, . - - - 42 Widows, - - • • • 79 Average number of children in each family, - - - 4 j (j Number of families in the parish, ----- 375 chiefly employed in agricultiu*e, - - 108 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, G6 The number of heritors in the parish, including the Crown, is 10; and each of them is proprietor of land of the yearly value of L. 50, and upwards. Language^ S^c. of the Peopfe.— Gaelic is the language generally spoken, and although it has not lost ground, the English has be- 58 INVEUNESS-SHIBE. come more generally known within the last three-and-thirty years. Within the last few years a striking improvement has taken place in the dress of the peasantry. About fifteen years ago, some va- grant preachers began to make their appearance in the parish. Elated with their supposed attainments in heavenly knowledge and grace, they undervalued the ministrations of the established pastor, and endeavoured to mislead the people. ^ IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There is no undivided common in the parish ; but, as there are few enclosures, there are frequent trespasses by cattle and sheep, throughout the winter and spring. The trees indigenous to the parish are, the oak, fir, ash, birch, mountain-ash, poplar. There is hazel, but it is never allowed to come to any beneficial size. Rent of Land. — The annual rent of sheep grass is from 2s. 6d. to ds. per acre, which is by far too high, considering the price of the product for some years past. Killin is the most valuable grazing; and if the limits of this account permitted, the writer would be tempted to essay a description of this charming dell. Rate of Wages. — The demand for labour beyond what the year- ly hired servants perform, is of rare occurrence. Where, there is oc- casion for additional hands for ordinary work, the rate is from 9d. to Is. per day, with victuals; reapers get Is. ; mowers Is. 6d.; ma- sons, 2s. with provisions. Husbandry. — From the nature of the land, husbandry is prac- tised in a very limited degree ; but, as far as circumstances permit, it is conducted as in the low country. The mountain torrents fre- quently encroach on the arable ground, and commit great injury ; for unfortunately no embankments have been made to ward off the damage. A few respectable tenants have commodious and well-construct- * A tradition, illustrative of the superstitions of the county, has been handed down from one generation to another, — that one of those persons favoured with the superna- tural gift of conveying the milk of their neighbours* cattle to their own, a native of Strathherric, had goneto the adjoining country of Badenoch, with the view of practising his art in favour of his own country generally, and succeeded so &r as to be able to con- fine the Badenoch milk in a withe, which he carried across the hill of Monadhliath to the height of Killin, where it burst (in virtue, perhaps, of a counter spell by the be- reaved country,) and overflowed that delightful plain, — which has been the cause of the richness of its pasture, and of the superior quality and quantity of milk it produces. The good effects of this untoward accident were not circumscribed to the dell of Kil- lin, for some of its streamlets kindly glided down to Strathherric, which accounts for the reputation, and deserved reputation, of the excellence of the milk, cream, and butter in that district. BOLESRINE AND ABERTARFF. 59 ed farm buildings, and their arable ground partially enclosed; but in general there are not many enclosures in the parish. No improvements deserving notice have recently been made ; nor does the mountainous nature of the country admit of extended melioration, otherwise than by planting, which would interfere with the pasture of the sheep, and consequently reduce the current rents, — though at the distance of eighty years hence these would be considerably augmented. Breeds ofLive-Stock. — There are upwards of 30,000 sheep in the parish, almost all of the Cheviot breed. Though the carcase does not grow to a very extraordinary size, the wool is esteemed of superior quality, and has always fetched the highest price at mar- ket. Most of it is sold to woolstaplers in the north of England, and the wedders and sheep are generally purchased by south country storemasters, who frequent the great annual sheep and wool fair at Inverness ; but sometimes they are sent by the breeders to the Fal- kirk September or October tryst, in expectation of getting a bet- ter price than what they had previously been offered in the country. If disappointed, they must dispose of them at a reduced price, or win- ter them in the south, which increases the expense, and eventually diminishes the gain, or drive them to England, which places them still more at the mercy of the buyer. The parish being better calculated for sheep than for any other stock, there is comparatively little attention paid to the rearing of other stock. A few gentlemen, however, are careful in procuring the breed of genuine Highland cattle, and there is of late years an evi- dent disposition to improve the race of horses, by crossing the na- tive breed with the south country draught horse. Goats would prosper here, but would not remunerate ; and sheep- farmers are universally hostile to a mixed stock. Fisheries, — There is only one small salmon fishery in the parish, which rents at L. 30 a-year. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised : Produce of grain of all kinds, potatoes, - - . hay, turnips, L.4dl3 V. — Parochial Economy. Inverness, distant twenty-one miles from the manse, is the nearest town to the parish. Means of Communication. — There is a post-office at Fort-Au- L.2262 1334 567 150 60 INVERNESS-SHIRE. gustus, to which there is a post from Fort- William thrice in the week, and a daily one from Inverness, which travels alternate days by the south and north side of Loch Ness, and passes within a mile of the manse. At present, there are no turnpike roads but the old Military road. It runs through the parish on the south side for about twenty-two miles ; it is under the management of the Parlimentary Commis- sioners for Highland roads and bridges, and is kept in good re- pair. The county have lately come to the resolution of placing toll- bars on this road ; but it is not supposed that the proceeds will suffice to defray the necessary expense of erecting the bars, &c. With this road a branch of one of the Parliamentary roads on the west side of the parish unites at Fort- Augustus. A branch of a county dis- trict road, extending about three miles, commencing at the east boundary of the parish, passes by the manse, and joins the main road half a mile to the west of it. There are other two district roads across the country : these are not kept in such good repair. With one exception, the bridges on the great lines of road on both sides of the lake are kept in good condition. There has been, time immemorial, a wooden bridge on the river Tarff, close to the walls of Fort- Augustus, kept in constant repair and rebuilt when requisite by government ; but a few years ago, it was greatly dama- ged, and is now in a most ruinous state, so that it has become ha- zardous even to foot-passengers. The Caledonian Canal runs through the parish. When the ca- nal was opened, a certain rate was paid by every vessel navigating it, ac- cording to its tonnage. A good many vessels then frequented it. The rate was soon doubled, and fewer ships resorted to it. The commis- sioners, finding that while they grasped the shadow, the substance slipped through their fingers, reverted to the original rate; but this has not yet restored the shipping. It affords means of communica- tion by steam packets and other vessels ; but it is not likely ever to increase the national revenue, nor to improve the bordering districts, which, except a few specks here and there, are mountainous and in- capable of cultivation. The commissioners' 27th Report, states the total sum received in the previous year from tonnage rates at L. 2144, 17s. lid. ; and a sum of L. 169, 19s. 7d. arising from mis- cellaneous sources, increases the amount of receipts to L. 2314, 17s. 6d. The expenditure was L.d6d5, 9s. dd., leaving a balance against the canal of L. 1320, lis. 9d. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is inconveniently situated BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF. 61 for the bulk of the inhabitants; it is distant from the eastern extre- mity scarcely two miles; but from the western extremity, in which the population is more than double, it is sixteen miles. It was built in 1777, and is at present in good repair, though uncomfort- able both for preacher and hearers, — being long and narrow, and resembling a bam more than a house meant for public worship. The walls and roof are bare, and only one-half of it has galleries. During the writer^s incumbency, L.570 have been bequeathed by four persons of the name Fraser ; and L. 70 more have been realized from fines recovered from delinquents. The interest of these sums is disbursed among the poor of Boleskine, to whom it is limited ; and the interest of L. 20 is divided among the Protestant poor of Abertarff. The parish church affords accommodation to 428 persons, and the one at Fort- Augustus to about 300. There is no rent paid for seats in the parish church ; but at Fort- Augustus there are a few seats belonging to the kirk-session, which are let for behoof of the poor. The galleries are understood to be Government property, and the rest belongs to private individuals. The manse was built in 1773, and, from its exposed situation, requires to be frequently repaired. The last repairs given to it were two years ago. It is incommodious and extremely uncomfortable. The extent of the glebe is 52 acres, 2 roods, 10 falls ; but of these upwards of 20 acres are rocks, stones, and worthless moor ; and the incumbent derives very little benefit from the residue, which is not properly enclosed, and is surrounded by tenants whose cat- tle and sheep constantly trespass and destroy the crop. As stated in the old Statistical Account, there were, till about sixty years ago, two glebes in the united parishes, — one near Fort- Augustus, on the banks of the Tarff, forming chiefly a level plot of ground without a stone or any impediment to interrupt a plough; and the other on the banks of Loch Ness, at the place peculiarly styled Boleskine, of easy tillage, and having some valuable wood of spontaneous growth in the hollow of some brooks. But an exchange was recommended, and effected, though not regularly, formally, or legally completed, if the record states the .transaction correct- ly ;' by this exchange, the legal guardians of the rights of the church sacrificed the comfort and interest of every succeeding incumbent; for the exchange has been from a charming spot and salubrious air, to heathy, stony, rocky ground — to an elevated position exposed 62 INVERNESS-SHIRE. to every blast that blows, without a tree to shelter, or a shrub to variegate the dreary inhospitable place. The amount of stipend, by decree of the Court of Teinds, is six- teen chalders of victual, half barley and half oatmeal; but as yet it is uncertain whether there are teinds in this parish to make this amount good. There is a missionary clergyman at Fort- Augustus, who is sup- ported from the Royal Bounty granted for the Reformation of the Highlands and Islands. There is a very snug, comfortable church there, originally built and kept in repair by voluntary subscrip- tion, to which Government a few years ago liberally contributed. There is a Popish meeting-house on the farthest farm west in the parish, adjoining Glengarry. The number of Papists in the parish is 318. What proportion of those attend their meeting-house, the writer does not know. There are no Dissenters or Seceders. In good weather, divine service at the Established church is ge- nerally pretty well attended. The average number of communi- C4UitH used to be about 280 ; but in 1831 there are not so many. liducation. — There are one parochial school and three other Hchools in the parish. In the parochial school, and in one of the other schools, the branches taught are, English and Gaelic read- ing, writing, arithmetic, Latin, and sometimes book-keeping. In the two other schools are taught English reading, and arith- metic The salary of the parish school is L. 30; garden allow- ance about L. 2, 2s. ; school fees L. 12. The emoluments of the other teachers consist entirely of school fees, and are both very small and precarious. The parochial teacher thinks he has not the legal accommodation. The expense of reading is 8s. in the year; reading and writing, 10s.; all other branches, 12s. The number of the young betwixt six and fifteen years of age who can- not read is 167. The number of persons upwards of fifteen years of age who cannot read is 451; of those who can read but cannot write, 235. The people in general have very inadequate notions of education, and do not continue their children at school long enough for their making any valuable progress. In a parish where the population is thin and scattered over so large an extent, there must be some so distant from school as to be unable to attend, particularly in winter, when, being least occu- pied with their vocations, they are most disposed to attend. One school at Fort- Augustus, with an efficient teacher, having a KINGUSSIE. 63 suitable salary, would be of incalculable betiefit; but the people are universally poor. Two other schools would be useful. There is another school in the parish with a salary of L. 7 for female children, who are taught English reading, writing, and sewing, on the establishment of the Society in Scotland for Propa- gating Christian Knowledge. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving aid from the funds under the management of the kirk- session is 41 ; and the average sum annually allotted to each is about 20s. Instead of being disinclined, they solicit to be receiv- ed on the poors roll, notwithstanding of the small pittance in the power of the distributors to bestow. The parish is not assessed for their maintenance, — so that they depend on casual and volun- tary charity, eked out by the produce of a plot of potato ground, given to every one of them. Fairs. — There are two fairs held annually at Fort- Augustus, in the beginning of June and end of September, for the sale of cattle chiefly. Pedlars and shoemakers from various quarters attend to dispose of their merchandise. There are besides occasional trysts, in spring and autumn, for black-cattle. WriUen September 1831. Revised February 1835. PARISH OF KINGUSSIE. PRESBYTERY OF ABERNETHY, SYNOD OF MORAY, THE REV. GEORGE SHEPHERD, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Ceannghiubhsaiche^ the Celtic term for Kingussie, ap- pears to have been adopted as the name of the parish, from its being so descriptive of the site of the parish church. It signifies the " Ter- mination or Head of the Fir Wood." When the name was given, the church stood upon a plain at the eastern extremity of a clump of wood, forming part of an immense forest of fir, which then co- vered the face of the country. Extent, Sfc. — Including hill and dale, the parish extends from east to west a distance of about 21 miles, and from north to soutk G4 INVERNESS-SHIRE. about 18; but from the extreme irregularity of its surface and figure, it is difficult to specify its precise extent in square miles. It is situated in the Lordship of Badenoch, and must undoubtedly rank among the most elevated and the most inland parishes in Scotland. The bed of the Spey is reckoned about 850 feet above the level of the sea. The parish is bounded on the east by Alvie; on the north by the united parishes of Moy and Delarossie ; on the west by Laggan ; and on the south by Blair in AthoU. Within the parish, the Monadhliadh * mountains stretch along the boundary for a considerable way, serving as a northern frontier, while the Grampians, rising in bold perspective in the distance, bound the parish to the south. Topographical Appearances. — Both these ranges are generally elevated, but contain no individual hills of sufiicient altitude to me- rit particular notice. From the Monadhliadh and Grampian hills^ the descent is pretty gradual, and terminates in an extensive valley of arable meadow land, intersected by the Spey, -which, with the narrow stripes along the various tributaries of that river, and the rising grounds to the south and north of it, forms most of the cul- tivated land of the parish, — the remainder consisting principally of bleak hills, covered chiefly with heath, and fitted only for pasturage. Meteorology. — The following results of a thermometrical regis- ter kept at Belleville in the neighbourhood, in 1821, has been hand- ed to me by Sir David Brewster: Belleville, latitude, 57.5"; longitude, 47. W ; annual mean temperature of the air, 44.3 ; mean temperature of the winter, 36.1; spring, 41.2; summer, 53.68; mean temperature in harvest, 46.67 ; mean temperature for month of October, 47.52. The prevailing winds in the parish are the west and north-east, the former geiberally accompanied with rain, and the latter with in- tense cold. In consequence of the great elevation of the parish, and its distance from the sea, the climate is cold and changeable, and subject, in the beginning and close of the season, to heavy dews and frost. These, although of late years much less frequent and less severe, still prove sometimes very injurious to the crops, espe- cially to potatoes, — an article of food upon which the peasantry in a great measure depend for subsistence. From the numerous marshes which at one time covered the low grounds, there arose an immense quantity of vapour, which, upon a depression of temperature, fell in the form of dew and frost upon the surrounding fields, carrying * Gray Mountain. KINGUSSIE. 65 certain ruin along with them. By the improyements in agriculture, however, these noxious influences have been to a great degree re- moved. The wet swampy lands^ have now nearly all given place to dry cultivated fields, — a circumstance which has benefited the country in regard at once to temperature, salubrity, and appearance. The prevailing distempers in the parish are inflammation, dropsy, apoplexy, and rheumatism. These are to be ascribed chiefly to the nature of the food upon which the peasantry in general subsist, and to the variableness and rigour of the climate. Hydrography. — Although the parish contains several lakes, scarcely any of them merit particular notice. Loch Errochd is a fine sheet of water, generally reckoned about sixteen miles long, but of these only about six lie within the boundaries of Kingussie. Throughout the greater part of this extent, the sce- nery is rather tame and bleak, — till towards the point where the parish terminates, when the banks assume a precipitous aspect, and are slightly wooded. None of the other lakes exceed a mile and a- half in length, by three quarters of a mile in breadth ; but, though small, they are by no means devoid of natural beauty. One of them. Loch Gynag, contains a small island, on which can be still traced the remains of what is said to have been a castle. The prin- cipal river is the Spey, which, as already noticed, intersects the parr rish. After leaving Laggan, where it has its rise, it meanders from west to east in a series of beautiful curves, for upwards of seven miles, through a rich vale slightly wooded with natural birch and alder. Its average velocity in this parish may be about three miles an hour. Its depth varies from 2 to 16 feet ; its width may be on an average, from 80 to 100 feet. The other rivers in the parish are the Truim, which, for a considerable distance, forms its western boundary ; the Tromie, which serves to divide it from Insh, on the east, both running in a northerly direction ; the Gynag and the Calder, which flow to the south ; all of these are tributary to the Spey. Most of them have their sources within the parish, and vary in length from 5 to 1 1 miles. The Spey, after a course of nearly 100 miles, discharges itself into the Moray Firth. The soil in the meadows, and along the banks of the several streams, consists in general of three strata. The upper of these is alluvial, and composed of a sort of sandy slime, covering a light loam^ which forms the second, — and this last generally incumbent on a bed of clay. The higher grounds are for the most part of a loamy nature, and generally intermixed with sand. The meadow grounds INVERNESS. E 66 INVERNESS-SHIRE. are of great extent, stretching along the Spey for its whole length in the parish, and extending on both sides of the river, in some places to three-quarters of a mile in breadth. They are likewise very deep and fertile, measuring in many places from 10 to 12 feet, and yield natural grass in great abundance, and in general of a fine quality. Many years ago, a mine of silver was discovered at a little distance from the church, but was never turned to any ac^ count. Some specimens also of silver and lead ores, have been found in the river Gynag before referred to, but in very small quan- tities. Zoology. — In common with the rest of the district, this parish was at one time much infested with vnld bears and wolves ; but these have long since disappeared, and none of the rarer kinds of animals are now to be found. The fishes caught in the rivers and lakes are, trout, pike, and salmon ; — the two first of which are pretty plentiful. Char appear in the Spey for about a fortnight in the month of October. Salmon come up to spawn about the end of August, and return towards the end of October, or begin- ning of November. Pike spawn in March ; and trout continue out in the small brooks, to which they go for the purpose of spawn- ing towards the end of September, till compelled to return by hard frost. The fresh-water mussel, containing pearls, is fished up in considerable quantities from the Spey. The forest of Gaick, the only one in the parish, abounds in deer, and is much frequented by sportsmen. It contains no wood, with the exception of here and there a few birch trees ; but the scenery is very wild and romantic. The plantations, of which there are several in the parish, of greater or less extent, consist chiefly of common fir and larch, interspersed with mountain-ash and oak. For these the soil seems well fitted ; but the species of wood to which it appears most congenial are, alder, hazel, and birch, which are found growing naturally in many parts of the parish. The most plentiful of these is birch, which covers extensively the rising grounds upon the southern bank of the Spey. II. — Civil History. Family of the Comyns. — The whole district of Badenoch, of which Kingussie is the central parish, was originally the property of the Comyns, who were at an early period of Scottish history one of the most wealthy and influential families in the kingdom. It is matter of doubt, at what time, and in what manner, this family, who came from England during the time of David I., acquired pos-* KINGUSSIE. 67 session of it; but we find John Comyn first Noticed as Lord of Ba- denoch as early as the reign of Alexander III. This nobleman, who was related to some of the former kings, laid claim to the crown upon the death of Margaret in 1291, but soon after withdrew his pretensions. Being the superior lord of Scotland, he was summon- ed by Edward I. to serve in his wars in Gascony.* He was suc- ceeded in his title and estates by his son, John, who was a brave and patriotic nobleman, and chosen one of the guardians of Scot- land about the year 1299. From this period down to the year 1305, we meet with incidental notices of this heroic character in his relation to Badenoch ; but the principal scenes of his life lay in the south. In 1302, with the assistance of another warrior, he successfully repelled the English forces near Roslin ;f and two years thereafter, he made a last fruitless struggle for Scottish in- dependence at Stirling ; but was obliged to yield, along with his country, to the overwhelming power of Edward 1. 1 In the suc- ceeding year, he fell a victim to the relentless fury of Bruce, after- wards King, for having discovered to Edward the designs of the former upon the crown of Scotland. For about nine years after Comyn's death, we find no mention of a successor to his lands or title. According to Fordun, soon after Bruce ascended the throne in 1306, he so weakened the influence, and reduced the numbers of the family of Comyn, that the name became almost extinct in the kingdom. In all probability, Badenoch, upon the murder of its original owner, was taken possession of by Bruce, as we find it -noticed among the lands belonging to him in Moray, which he erected into an earldom about the year 1314, and bestowed upon his nephew, Thomas Randolph, under the title of Earl of Moray. § In the hands of this nobleman, and his successors, it seems to have continued till the year 1371, or thereabouts, when it became the property of the family of Stuart, which was nearly allied to that of Bruce. Robert II., the grandson of Robert Bruce, and the first of the Stuarts who ascended the Scottish throne, con- stituted his fourth son, Alexander, his lieutenant from the southern boundaries of Moray to the Pentland Firth ; || in whom the title of Lord of Badenoch appears to have been first revived after Comyn's death. The ferocity of disposition, and predatory character of Alexander, soon gained for him the appellation of the Wolf of Badenoch. He resided for the most part at his castle of Ruthven, • Rymcr, Fcedcra, ii. 643- f Heningford. + Trivet, 334 ; Ryley, 369. § Survey of Province of Moray , p. 13. || Robertson's Index, 11%, 68 INVERNKSS-SHIRE. reared by the Comyns, on a green conical mound on the southern bank of the Spey, in this parish, — a situation chosen, no doubt, on account of its beauty and security, as well as for the exten- sive and delightful view which it commanded of the valley of the Spey. Here the Wolf, considering himself secure, and presum- ing upon his connection with the Crown, exercised a despotic sway over the inhabitants of his own immediate district, and spread terror and devastation everywhere around. His life was characterized throughout by the most cruel and savage conduct. It was he who, in 1390 and the following year, from some personal resentment against the Bishop of Moray, set fire to the towns of Forres and Elgin, which, with the magnificent cathedral, canons' houses, and several other buildings connected with the latter, he burnt to ashes, carry- ing off at the same time all that was valuable in the sacred edifice.* For this sacrilegious deed the Wolf suffered excommunication, — the effects of which he soon felt even in his den ; and having made what reparation he could to the see of Moray, he was subsequent- ly absolved, f The Wolf died not long after, in 1394, and was buried in the cathedral church of Dunkeld, where a Latin inscrip- tion was placed upon his tomb, f By the death of " Alastairmdr mac an Ri/jfh"§ which was a name sometimes applied to the Wolf, his possession fell to his natural son, Duncan, who seems to have inherited the vices as well as the property of his father. This is the last of the Stuarts connected with Badenoch of whom there is any account, written or traditional. The district some time after this period, passed into the hands of the first Earl of Huntly, who received part of it in 1452, for his valuable services to James H.in defeat- ing the Earl of Crawfurd at Brechin. The lands adjacent to the castle of Ruthven were given him at an earlier period ; || and the principal part of the Lordship continued in the hands of the Gordon family, till of late years, when some of it has been disposed of. Land-oumers. — The landholders of Kingussie at present are five in number : George Macpherson Grant of Ballindalloch ; James Baillie, Esq. merchant in Bristol ; Miss Macpherson of Belleville ; .Cluny Macpherson ; and Colonel George Gordon of Invertromie.^ • Wyntown, Vol. ii. 863. f Chart. Moravien. $ " Hie jacet Alexandei^ Senescallus filius Robcrti regis Scotorum, et Elizabethie More, Dominus de Buchan et Badenoch, qui obiit A. D. 1394." — Vide Scotichro- nicon, VoL ii. circa Goodall, Edinburgi, 1759. § Big Alexander, the King's son. y Survey of the Province of Moray, p. 17. 5. At the commencement of the present century, an occurrence took place, in a re- mote part of the parish, which will long be remembered by the Inhabitants. The story has found a place from time to time in several periodical works ; in some of which it 4 KINGUSSIE. 69 Eminent Men, — The parish has produced, at several timesi men who have distinguished themselves in the literary, but espe- has been related with great inaccuracy. The statement we are about to submit is in substance the account given by an elder of the parish, who was an eyewitness of most' of what he relates, and whose story is corroborated by other old people in the district. Early on the morning of Monday the 1st or 2d of January 1800, a mi. litary gentleman, who resided in the parish. Captain M*P accompanied by four attendants, went out a deer-stalking among the wild and rugged mountains that skirt the parish to the south. The immediate intention of this expedition, it is said, was to kill some game for a Christmas feast : and they took provisions with them sufficient to serve until the following Friday, on which day they had determined to return. They were to lodge in a house in the valley of Gaick, at that time unoccupied, but generally in the possession of herdsmen, who used to tend their flocks upon the surrounding pas- tures. This house was a very good and substantial building of stone, and probably mortar, with strong couples c^ wood, driven into the ground after the manner of some of the houses of this country, which are constructed in this way for the purpose of greater stability. It stood on rather a rising ground, at the foot of one of those lofty mountains with which the valley is almost surrounded, fronting nearly the north-west, and, from the peculiarity of its situation, combined with its strength, might have been thought secure from the utmost fury of a storm. The first two days after Captain M'P and his party left home, were very calm and frosty. Towards Wednesday evening, however, there came on a dreadful storm of wind and drifUng snow from the south-east, which increased throughout the night to a hurricane. This continued unabated till the morning and forenoon of Friday, when it gradually settled down again into fine weather. As the house in which Captain M'l' and his party were to lodge was known to be good, no fears were entertained of the slightest danger, till the circumstance of their non-appearance on Friday evening excited a suspicion that all could not be right. A messenger was accordingly despatched on Saturday morning to discover the cause of their delay, who, on coming near the place where the house had stood, was surprised to find that it had quite disappeared, while its site was covered with an immense depth of snow. This induced a strong dread that Captain M'P and his companions had all perished ; and the fiu;t of his having found a hat and powder-flask partially buried among the snow, which he immediately recog- nized as the property of some of the party, confirmed his fears. On communicating these particulars upon his return in the evening, a party of about twelve men collect- ed, and set off for the spot early on Sabbath morning. As they approached the place, the stones which had formed part of the waUs, along with the wood and divots of the roof, were seen among the snow between the house and the bottom of the valley, at various distances, some of them from two to three hundred yards from the house. The lintel of the door, which was a stone of large size, lay at least 150 yards distant. Nothing being seen but one extended bank of snow, with stones, wood, and turf, here and there rising through it, the men had the utmost difficulty in discovering the site of the building ; and it was only afler a diligent and fatiguing search of at least six hours, that they succeeded in discovering the only remaining vestige of it, under at least six feet depth of snow. What they discovered of the house, was a part of the back wall about a foot high, which had been preserved by its being sunk below the sur- rounding earth ; the rest of the house was completely swept away. Four of the Inxlics were found soon after, within the area of the building, cold and lifeless, and, from the position and other circumstances in which some of them were, it appeared that the un- fortunate men had been retiring to bed, or at least reclining, when the sad event befel them. Captain M*P was sitting with his coat off, upon the remains of a bed, leaning forward with his elbows upon his knees, and the one hand grasping the wrist of the other, which supported his head. Other two of the party lay in each other*s embrace, half out of bed, from which it would seem they had made a fruitless effort to escape, when they felt themselves in danger. A fourth of the bodies was lying upon the back, on the fragment that remained of a kind of long seat opposite to Cap- tain M*P , with one thigh broken, and covered with stones and turf. Two guns were also found in the middle of the floor, one of them bent, and, if our infor- mant recollects rightly, the other in pieces. The body of the remaining sufferer was not found till two or three months thereafter, when the snow had somewhat abated, lying at the distance of 200 yards, partly undressed* The«»e melancholy particulars, taken in connection with the supposed security of the situation, and the i!»iiddewTw«sv». 70 INVERNESS-SHIRE. cially in the military world. James Macpherson, Esq. the cele- brated translator of the poems of Ossian, and author of several original works in prose and vefse, was a native of this parish. He was bom in 1738, in the village of Ruthven, where he afterwards for some time taught the parish school. Mr Macpherson's lite- rary history is well known, and his talents as a writer universally acknowledged. His version of the bard of the Gael has acquired for him a high, extensive, and lasting fame. About the year 1790, he purchased a beautiful property lying chiefly in this, and partly in the neighbouring parish, to which he gave the name of Belle- ville. On this property he resided occasionally till the period of his death in 1796, when his remains were, at his own request, de- posited in the Poet's Corner of Westminster Abbey. His estates descended to his eldest son, who possessed them till he died in April ISaO, when they fell to his elder sister, who now enjoys thcjni. The natives of this parish, who have risen to high rank in the army, are so numerous, that it would be both tedious and use- Umn to particularize them. It has the honour of numbering among tRoHC, the late Lieutenant- General John Maclntyre of E. L C. S. and Sir John M'Lean, who is still alive,— the former born at Knap- nuch, the latter at Pitmain, men who have eminently distingufshed themselves in the service of their country. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers up to the year 1724> were unfortunately burnt, so that the earliest entry of those exist- ing is dated at that period. The earlier parts of the records now of the calamity, led the common people in the country to refer it to some supernatu- ral agency, or at least to the shock of an earthquake or to lightning. But an avalanche^ or fall of snow, seems to account for all the circumstances connected with it. llie im- mense bank of snow referred to as involving the building lay in a straight line from the foot of a very steep part at the top of the hill, to very near a stream which mean- dered at its base. The snow was very broad and deep throughout, but gradually de- creased in depth as it approached its termination below. Beyond the boundaries of this bank, the snow was quite thin on all sides, and in a few days was completely gones. The rubbish of the house, as well as the body last found, all lay in the direction of the valley below ; the bodies of Captain M*P and another of the party, were in- clined in this direction also ; clearly indicating that the force which destroyed them operated in the direction of a line from the top of the hill to its base ; and it is known that the wind blew with terrific violence in this direction likewise, which would of course greatly augment the weight and force of the falling snow. The notion of an avalanche being the cause of the sad catastrophe, is further supported by the fact, that in the interval between the time of its occurrence and the discovery of the body last found, in the middle of spring, an immense body of snow fell from the same hill, and rested immediately at the l)ack of where the house had stood, and in all probability would have proceeded farther, had it not been stopped by the opposing force of the snow that fell before, which was still very deep. This lump measured 24 feet deep by 16 broad. And several years thereafter, a similar fall from a hill about a mile to the east, had force sufficient to break ice of a foot thick, which covered a small lake l)clow, and to dash the water of it to a considerable distance upon the opposite hill. The event now described eicited a deep interest among all classes. .«> KINGUSSIE. 71 extant were regularly kept, and are very voluminous. The later books have been also regularly preserved, but are neither large nor numerous, and contain few minutes of session of any great interest. Antiquities. — Among the antiquities of the parish, may be no- ticed the remains of the barracks of Ruthven, which stand upon a conical mound, thought to be partly natural, partly artificial, upon the southern bank of the Spey, on the site of the old castle of Ruthven, the seat of the Lords of Badenoch. The present build- ing, which is now in a dilapidated state, began to be built by Government about the year 1718, for the purpose of keeping the country in subjection after the rebellion of 1715. It consisted of two parallel buildings of equal length, running nearly east and west, connected by two of much less height lying in a trans- verse direction, and forming a complete square, large enough, it is said, to accommodate two companies of men. There was, be- sides, a pretty large house which served the purpose of a stable for a number of horses. The party who were stationed here joined Cope when on his march to Inverness in 1745) with the exception of a Serjeant and twelve men, who were left to defend the barracks in case of an attack by the rebels. In the following month, these few kingsmen gave a successful resistance to a body of 200 insur- gents. In February of the succeeding year, this small band sustained a severe attack from 300 rebels, headed by Gordon of Glenbucket, and, after a brave defence of three days, obtained an honourable capitulation.* Not long thereafter, the insur- gents set fire to the building, and all that now remains of it is but a mouldering pile, fast sinking into decay. Ruthven of Badenoch is known as well for its antiquity as its celebrity in history. It is one of the few places in the north mentioned by Ptolemy, in his Geographical Account of Britain, about the year 140. This an- cient Greek writer says, it is situated in the province of Moray, and gives it the name of Bavaria. — There are still to be seen in the parish the faint traces of a building said to have been a priory ; but little is known respecting it. There was also a monastery, of which no satisfactory account can be given. " The parish con- tains, likewise, some Druidical circles, and the appearance of a Roman encampment. This last is situated on a moor between the Bridge of Spey and Pitmain. In clearing some ground adja- cent, an urn was found full of burnt ashes, which was carefully • Survey of Province of Moray, p. 258. 72 INVERNESS-SHIRE. preserved, and is still extant. A Roman tripod was also found some years ago, concealed in a rock, and is deposited in the same hands with the urn."* Where the last two relics of antiquity now are, we have not discovered. III. — Population. The population, at least for a good many years back, has gra- dually increased. At the date of the last Statistical Account, it amounted to 1803, and at the successive Parliamentary surveys of 1811, 1821, 1831, the respective results were, 1981, 2004, and 2080; of the last of which numbers, 941 were males, and 1139 females. In 1833, however, the district of Insh, which previously formed part of this parish, was erected into a separate charge, quoad sacra^ and, consequently, its population comes now to be de- ducted. This deduction leaves for Kingussie, by a survey com- pleted in October 1833, a population of 721 males, and 912 fe- males, total, 1633. The increase observable at the successive dates of census, greatly owing, no doubt, to the erection of vil- lages, which have attracted people from the neighbouring parishes, would probably have been much greater, were it not for emigra- tion, and the want of sufficient employment for the young of the working classes and for tradesmen, who are in consequence obliged to seek the means of a livelihood elsewhere, and chiefly in a fo- reign land. No fewer than eighty souls left the united parish in 1833 for America. The inhabitants are distributed in the fol- lowing proportions : Residing in villages, 704 ; in the country, 929. The annual average of births for the last seven years is 47 ; of mar- riages, 13. No register of deaths is kept. Number of persons under J 5 years of age, 574 between 15 and 30, 405 so and 50, 350 50 and 70, 249 upwards of 70, 55 Total, - ^ - 1633, as above. There are but few people of independent fortune amongst us. Each of the five landholders possesses property in the parish to a much greater amount than L. 50. The number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of fifty years of age is 25 ; and of unmarried women, upwards of forty-five, 62. As the census of 1831 was taken before the disjunction of Insh from Kingussie, the following particulars, extracted from that census, must be given for * Old Statistical Account. KINGUSSIE. 73 both as united : Number of families, 481 ; average number of children in each family, probably about 4. Number of inhabited houses, 440; number uninhabited, 16; building, 10. There are 1 fatuous and 1 blind person in the parish. The number of fami- lies chiefly employed in agriculture is 152 ; in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 100. The language of the common people is Gaelic, but most of the young, and many of the old inhabitants understand Enghsh: among the better classes, the latteris preferred. The Gaelic has lost ground very much within the last forty years ; and it is highly probable the time is not very far distant when it will cease to be a living language in this part of the country. The dress of the people is assuming much of the lowland cast ; and the once characteristic garb is now seldom used, but on extraordinary occasions, or by young children. The common food of the peasantry consists of potatoes, and oat- meal in its various preparations, with now and then a little butcher- meat, cheese, and milk. Character^ §"c. of the People. — It is true that the young of the poorer sort are now more inured to labour, and more willing to en- gage in it, than they once were, — and that the march of improve- ment in agriculture and knowledge has been accompanied with many advantages, — as in the erection of villages which have in- creased the facility of disposing of their little country produce, and brought in return the necessaries, and some of the comforts, of life to their doors. Still from the shortness of most of their leases, — the non-residence of some of the proprietors, which drains the country of money, — the still uncertain state of their crops, and the length of land carriage, which is at least forty-six miles, the com- mon people continue in a very poor and uncomfortable state. They have many good qualities of character. The bravery of many of them has been well proved, and they maintain a high reputation for hospitality and politeness. But these virtues are too often found in union with vices, by which their value is much impaired : and quarrelling, intemperance, and an artfulness of address, are still features in their character. We have, however, pleasure in adding, that these defects, especially the two first, are now less fre- quent, than when the last Account was written. The facilities now afforded for acquiring a good education, and consequently of read- ing and hearing the Scriptures read, are obviously producing, by the blessing of God, a salutary impression ; religious principle is ac- quiring a greater sway over the conduct, and, while there is but too 74 INVERNESS-SHIRE. much reason to complain of insincerity even in religious profession, and of mere formality in religious observances, there are still, com- paratively speaking, but few instances of open profanation, and of a marked contempt of the ordinances of religion. Smuggling, which at one time prevailed to a great extent, and tended more to demo- ralize the people than any thing ever introduced into the country, has been of late years entirely abandoned, and a sensible ameliora- tion in the morals of the inhabitants has in consequence taken place. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish, so far as known to the writer, not having at any time undergone a regular measurement, no statement to be relied upon can be given of the relative quantities of land, arable or uncultivated, or of the number of acres which may be un- der wood. It may be mentioned, however, that it must always be more a pastoral than an agricultural parish ; and, consequently, the land susceptible of regular culture is, comparatively speaking, but of limited extent. The greater part of it now consists of large sheep walks. The management of plantations, in respect of prun- ing and thinning, is pretty good ; and they are in a very thriving condition. Rent of Land. — Land rents at an average of from L. 1, 5s. to L. 1, 10s. per acre, so far as we can ascertain. Rate of Wages. — Day-labourers receive in summer Is. per day with, and Is. 6d. without, victuals ; * and women 6d. or 9d., ac- cording as they supply themselves with food or not; when en- gaged at harvest work, they receive Is. per day, vrith victuals. Mason's work, at from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d., when hired by the day, and carpenters at 2s. Carpenter work, per yard of roofing or flooring, including materials, 3s. 6d., and per foot of windows, including glass, 2s. 6d. ; mason work, per rood, materials included, L. 6, 10s. or exclusive of materials, L. 2. Plasterers work. Is. 6d. per yard ; slaters, L. 6 per rood, both including materials ; blacksmiths when hired by the day receive in general about 2s. 6d. Prices of Provisions. — Oatmeal on an average of seven years has sold for about 20s. the boll, of nine stones ; bear or big-meal, the same as oatmeal, with ten stones to the boll : beef, 6d. or 6d. per lb. ; mutton, 6d. per ditto ; cheese, 7s., and butter 18s., the stone of 24 lbs. Husbandry. — The sheep reared here are generally of the black- faced kind, with a very few Cheviots for family use; and the cattle consist chiefly of the Highland, with a few of the Ayrshire breed.. 3 KINGUSSIE. 75 The system of agriculture followed by all the respectable tenantry is the modern one of cropping by rotation ; but the crofters and poorer tenants, partly from their aversion to the new scheme, and partly from their indigent circumstances, still pretty generally ad- here to the old plan. The villagers of Kingussie, however, form an exception to this remark. Some of the feuars in this village farm with great spirit and taste, according to the most approved system ; — in consequence of which, the lands in its vicinity have been brought to a state of high cultivation. The proprietors, we understand, are desirous to introduce the new mode of farming over all their estates, and some of them have taken their tenants bound, that, at the expiry of the leases lately granted, the farms shall all be put under a regular rotation. Of late years, much has been done in the way of reclaiming waste land, embanking and draining; and the improvements in this way are still proceeding. The general length of leases, when such are granted, is nine or ten years ; a number of the smaller tenants, however, hold their possessions from year to year, which is certainly unfavourable to improvement. The capabilities of the lower grounds are generally very great, and under the management of skilful and industrious tenants, with a mode- rate capital, and leases of sixteen or nineteen years, might, notwith- standing all disadvantages, be turned to excellent account. Some sheep-farmers have leases of fifteen years ; and one tenant holds his farm for nineteen years. The farm-buildings of the better classes are good, but those of the poorer sort are very indifferent. The enclosures consist chiefly of stone, and some of them of turf; those of the former kind are very substantial. The writer has not been able to obtain an accurate account of the amount and value of the raw produce yearly raised in the pa- rish. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication^ Sfc, — The nearest market-town is In- verness, at a distance of forty-six miles. There are two villages in the parish, both of which are on the increase. Kingussie, the larger of these villages, contains a post-oflice, through which there is a regular communication, both with the south and north, thrice a-week. The great Highland road from Perth to Inverness pas- ses through the parish, extending in the directions of south and north, a distance of sixteen miles ; upon which the Caledonian coach runs daily, either south or north, between the towns just mentioned. There are regular carriers once a-week from Kin- 76 INVERNESS-SHIRE. gussie to Inverness and Perth by this road also, — ^which in sum- mer is very much frequented by travellers, being the most direct communication between the northern Highland counties and the south of Scotland. It crosses the Spey four miles above the village of Kingiysie, by a large brici^, which is in excellent repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands in the village of Kingussie, on a beautiful wooded eminence, about a mile and a-half from the eastern verge of the parish. Its situation is by no means centrical, — though, on the whole, convenient enough for the great body of the population. Although built so late as the year 1792, it is now in such a state as to require a thorough repair and ad- dition : or rather perhaps a new one should be built. In its pre* sent form, it is by far too small for the population, affording ac- commodation only for between 600 and 700 persons. The church seats follow the farms upon the several estates, and the villagers pay for their seats to the tenantry who have any to spare. There is no manse in the parish, but an annual sum is allowed by the heritors in lieu of one. The glebe contains upwards of forty acres, and is very capable of being improved; and when the improvements which are now going on shall have been completed, it will be worth about L. 50 per annum. The present incumbent has planted upwards of 3000 young trees upon it, and got the whole enclosed. The stipend by a late augmentation is sixteen chalders, half meal, half barley, pay- able in money, with L. 10 for communion element money. There are do missionaries, no chapels of ease, and no Dissenting chapels of any kind, except a Baptist meeting-house ; and the Government church at Insh, formerly connected with this parish, has been late- ly converted into a parish church, and the charge, as already re- marked, rendered, quoad sacra, separate and independent. There being no Dissenters of any kind, with the exception of a few Bap- tists, and one Roman Catholic family, there is in consequence a full attendance at the Established church. The average number of communicants is upwards of 200. Several years ago, a Bible and School Society was established by the parishes of Kingussie, and Insh, and Laggan ; the contri- butions of which are given to those religious institutions, which furnish Bibles at a cheap rate to the country, and aid in the esta- blishment of schools. To this society, the parish of Kingussie con- tributes at an average, from L. 22 to L. 23 per annum. There KINGUSSIE. 77 are besides, occasional collections in aid of the Northern Infir- mary. There is a catechist in the parish, with a salary of L. 20, one- half of which is paid by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and the other half by the present iij^umbent Education. — In the parish, there are, the parochial school, — two seminaries supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, one of which is a female school, — and one supported by the Glasgow Auxiliary Society : and in the Insh district, one school supported by the General Assembly's Committee. There is also an infant school maintained by individual subscription. Besides these, there have been for some years past, two aid schools during the winter and spring months, in remote and necessitous parts of the parish, supported by the Inverness Education Society. The salary of the teacher of the infant school is L. 10, besides some perquisites ; and the branches taught are, English reading, writing, sewing, and knitting. Latin and mathematics are taught at the parochial school. . The salary of the parish schoolmaster is the maximum : that of the teacher appointed by the General Assembly's Committee, L. 20 ; of the Society's teacher, L. 15 per annum. The parochial teacher is in the annual receipt of about L. 16 for school fees. The schoolmaster furnished by the Glasgow Auxiliary Society re- ceives L. 14 from that society, and L. 8 from the people of the district in which he teaches for school fees. The parochial school- master has the accommodation required by law ; and the heritors, in the most handsome manner, came forward some years ago, and erected a large and commodious school-house, far beyond the legal requirement. There is scarcely any part of the parish so distant as not to be within the reach of one or other of the schools we have mentioned ; and the people seem in general anxious for the benefits of education to their children, provided they can be obtained at a cheap rate. The number of young people betwixt six and fifteen years of age who cannot read or write amounts to about 39. The schools are obviously producing a very beneficial effect; Literature, — About four years ago, a Subscription Circulating Library was established in the village of Kingussie, and consists now of upwards, of 300 volumes, comprising books in divinity, his- tory, and general literature. Besides this, there is a small library for the benefit of the scholars connected with the parish school. 78 INVERNESS-SHIRE. containing nearly seventy volumes, which are eagerly read, and found to be of great use to the rising generation. There is also a library connected with the General Assembly's school at Inverness. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of paupers in the parish is 6Q, — who receive aid from the funds according to their several necessities, from 2s. 6d. to L. 1 per annum. The amount realized annually for church collections may be about L. 27. The funds derived from the fines of delinquents are very variable. These sources of relief, along with common begging, are the only ones known here ; assessment for the support of the poor has never yet been resorted to in this country. In regard to the disposition manifested by those dependent upon parochial aid, it must be stated, that they are rather anxious to procure it than otherwise, and that the degradation seems to be fully compensated in their eyes, by the accession to their comforts which it confers. It ought, how- ever, to be remarked, that none but those who are really needful obtain any assistance. Prisons. — In 1806, a house was erected in the village of Kin- gussie, consisting of a neat court room, for holding the meetings of the district, and two cells for the confinement of ofienders, where they are detained only till they can be conveyed to the county prison. Tliese cells by a late repair have been rendered very se- cure; they are kept by a jailor, who is accountable to the authori- ties of the district. We are not aware that there has been a single prisoner during the last year. Fairs. — There are commonly five or six markets in the parish throughout the year ; the principal one of which is held in June for selling wool, lambs, &c. Another is held in November for set- tling accounts, and engaging servants ; and a third in February. Other three are held for buying and selling cattle, at different times, so as to suit dealers passing from the southern and northern markets. Inns and Alehouses. — The parish contains two inns, and ten or eleven alehouses, — the effects of which, especially of the ale- houses, upon the morals of the people, are certainly of a perni- cious tendency. •• Fuel. — The common fuel used here is peat, procured, at a very great expense, from mosses in some places four and five miles dis- tant. KINGUSSIE. 79 Miscellaneous Observations. Within the last forty years, the parish has undergone many im- portant alterations in its physical as well as its moral character. Great part of the bleak and barren land, formerly supposed fit to be only the abode of wild beasts, has been brought under cultivation. Although the parish, as before noticed, must always be more a pas- toral than an agricultural one, and though the utmost extent of im- provable soil is and must always be far exceeded by the extent of mountain and other land incapable of cultivation, still were the part of the parish, which can be cultivated, to be brought under a system of regular rotation, it might be nearly, if not entirely adequate to the supply of the wants of the population, a good which has never yet been accomplished. Nothing has proved more ruinous to this parish than the necessity of bringing meal from other districts, with the additional expense of a long land- carriage. Since the date of the last Statistical Account, regular carriers have been established, and roads made in various direc- tions, by which intercourse can be carried on with ease between the several parts of the district, as also between this and the neigh- bouring countries ; indeetd, there is now no district in the High- lands better accommodated with roads. The coach before -men- tioned as running through the parish, has been established, too, within the same period. Forty years ago, " there was not a vil- lage in the parish or in the whole district ;" * there are now two in this parish alone ; of a combined population of upwards of 700. Onet^f these villages contains thirteen or fourteen merchants, who deal in almost every necessary commodity, and there are several others throughout the parish ; circumstances which present a strik- ing difference from the state of things when there was but one or at most two merchants in the whole district The village above mention- ed contains, besides, a number of mechanics and tradesmen. Near- ly half a century has witnessed a great change likewise in the in- habitants themselves. The melioration discernible in their moral character has been noticed. The Highland garb will soon entire- ly disappear. The Gaelic language, too, besides having materially lost ground, has suffered considerably from the intermixture with English words and phrases, — as the latter language is now gene- rally understood by the rising generation. But the difference between the state of matters now, and that which existed at the * Old Statistical Account. 80 INVERNESS-SHIRE. time in question, is in nothing more apparent or more pleas- ing, than in the increased facilities of education. The means of instruction have been rendered accessible to the poorest, and, with the exception, perhaps, of a few solitary instances, to the most remote of our population. There was but one, the parish school, at the time of the former Statistical Account. In some of the present schools, but more particularly in those conducted on the Sabbath evenings, several aged people have been taught to read, with an ease and accuracy credible only by those who have heard them ; while the general diffusion of knowledge, and the comparative fewness of those who are unable to read, furnish a most pleasing contrast to the gloomy picture of two score years ago, when the "greater number of the people were so illiterate, that they could neither read nor write."* In conclusion, we would only remark, that, were the old sys- tem of smaller and more numerous possessions returned to, which has been of late years relinquished for that of large extensive sheep-walks, and were the system we recommend, to be adopted in connection with the approved mode of agriculture, in regard to the arable land, the change would tend greatly to prevent emigra- tion, and contribute much to the happiness and the prosperity of the country at large. * Old Statistical Account* February 1835. PARISH OF ALVIE. PRESBYTERY OF ABERNETHY, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. JOHN MACDONALD, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish derives its name from the small peninsula that constitutes the Glebe, and on which the church and manse are built The etymology given of Alvie in the former Statisti- cal Account is not in the least probable, and must have been ha- zarded without a careful examination of the Celtic name. The name is in Gaelic pronounced Ealgbhi^ sounding bh like v in Eng- lish; a word compounded of ealabh, swans, and i, an island, which, correctly translated, signifies the island of swans. What tends in a great measure to establish this etymology is, that the lake of Alvie, from time immemorial, has been annually visited by a number of swans in the spring season. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish consists of two divisions, separated by the river Spey. The largest and the most populous of those divisions, situated on the north-west side of that river, mav be considered a parallelogram, of which the longest side may mea- sure 10, and the shortest 6 miles ; it is bounded on the south-east bv the Spey ; on the north-west by the parish of Moy ; on the south- west by the parish of Kingussie ; and on the north-east by the parish of Duthel. The other division of the parish, situated on the opposite side of Spey, extends from north to south in the form of a rhomboid, of which the longest sides may measure about 10, and the shortest 2^ miles ; it is bounded on the east by Rothiemur- chus; on the west by the Insh district of Kingussie; on the north by the Spey ; and on the south by the parish of Blair. The surface covered by the parish of Alvie may be computed at 84 square miles. The parts of the Grampian mountains, at which the southern ex- tremity of the parish terminates, form the highest hills in Scotland, being ascertained, by actual measurement, to be 4500 feet above the level of the sea. The mountains forming the north-west boun- dary of the parish are considerably lower than the Grampians ; but, INVERNESS. F 82 INVERNESS-SHIRE. as these have not been measured, their elevations above the level of the sea cannot be correctly stated. Meteorology. — According to a register kept by Sir David Brews- ter at Belleville, about 700 feet above the level of the sea, the mean temperature of 1834 was about 45°, and the hour of mean temperature about 7^ 33" a. m., and 6** 47' p. m. The prevail- ing winds in this parish, and over the whole valley of Badenoch, are the south-west and north-east. In the immediate vicinity of the Grampians, through the narrow valley of Glenfeshie, the wind some- times blows down from the hills in violent gusts, resembling the hur- ricanes of tropical climates, — unroofing houses, tearing the largest trees from the root, and carrying all loose substances in its progress irresistibly before it. There is no other wind that claims particular notice, if we except the whirlwind, which occurs seldom, and only in the summer season. The ignorant country people, particularly the old, who are strongly wedded to the absurd superstitions of their venerated ancestors, consider the whirlwind as indicative of a procession of the imaginary beings called fairies. This supersti- tion, however, is wearing fast away ; and it is probable that in less than half a century, not a trace of it will remain, providing the pro- gress of education shall not be obstructed by the failure of adequate means to support the schools at present so extensively in operation. The venerable Principal Baird, whose labours of love will be long remembered with heartfelt gratitude in the Highlands of Scotland, has contributed, by his benevolent exertions, in an eminent degree to the expulsion of fairies from the Highland hills. The Strath of Badenoch being at this place probably not less than 650 feet above the level of the sea, it cannot be expected that there should be the same quantity of genial warmth as iu lower situations. There is nothing in which the inferiority of the climate is, in these respects, so perceptible as in the partial and often total failure of orchard fruit, such as apples, pears, and plums, &c. which never ripen suflSciently in any garden in this parish, except on wall-trees. But when the ground is well culti- vated and manured, there are as rich crops of corn raised in this parish, though somewhat later in ripening, as in any district of the low country. The circumstances connected with the climate most unfavourable to the produce of the soil are, the long continu- ance of frost in the month of May, and the early visit of mildew in the month of August. The former retards vegetation, and oc- casions a late harvest; the latter, by blasting potatoe crops and ALVIE. 83 green corn, often disappoints the industrious farmer's expectation, even when built upon the most promising appearance. The cli- mate has, however, of late been much improved, for neither frost nor mildew have done any harm for the last seven years. Diseases, — The diseases most prevalent in the parish are scrofula, dropsy, and palsy. These diseases, which are chiefly confined to the poorer class of the people, have not the most dis- tant connection with any peculiarity in the climate ; for though the air is keen and sharp, it is salubrious in a very high degree ; as a proof of which, strangers who come to the country in delicate health, after a few weeks' residence in the bosom of the hills, be- come vigorous and healthy. The principal cause to which the prevalence of those diseases may probably be ascribed, is a poor watery diet, consisting, for the most part, of vegetable substances, such as potatoes, kail, turnips, &c. which, without a due propor- tion of animal food to correct their natural tendency, relax the so- lids, vitiate the blood, and bring on at last a general debility of the system. Hydrography. — There are no springs in this parish that merit particular notice. The only lake is Loch Alvie, if we except Loch Inch, formed by the Spey, the one-half of which may be said to be within the parish of Alvie. The length of Loch Alvie, which almost surrounds the glebe, may be computed at a mile; the breadth half a mile ; and the greatest depth 65 feet or 1 1 fa- thoms. Its temperature, for want of a proper instrument to ascer- tain it, cannot be correctly stated. The Spey is the only river passing through the parish. Its source is in the Braes of Bade- noch, near the border of Lochaber, at a distance of not less than 30 miles from this place. Its mean breadth may be reckoned at 50 yards; the average depth of the deepest pools at from 10 to 12 feet ; and its length from its source to Garmouth cannot be less than 100 miles. The direction of the Spey is nearly from west to east. From the south-west extremity of the parish to Loch Inch, a distance of five miles, the course of the Spey is slow and gentle ; but from Loch Inch to the other extremity of the pa- rish, it flows with considerable rapidity. Geology and Mineralogy, — This parish does not furnish much matter for geological researches. Under this head, therefore, the following information, in popular rather than scientific terms, must suffice. The mountains of this parish are composed solely of gneiss, which is intersected with veins of granite and red porphyry, of 84 INVERNESS-SHIRE.* which there are fine specimens in the Burn of Raitts at Belleville, liimestone is quarried at Dunachton, a part of Mackintosh's pro- perty, and veins of lead occur in the gneiss in the Burn of Raitts, and at Tyncaim, both on the property of Belleville. The granite is of two kinds, red and white. The red granite is harder and more durable, but the white is preferred in building, because it is more easily dressed. The soil of this parish is in general light, and the substratum either sand or gravel, with the exception of meadow ground on the banks of Spey, where the soil is in some places very deep, lying on a substratum of clay. Botany. — The only herb of rare occurrence peculiar to this parish is the Nymphea alba, or white water-lily, which grows abundantly in the Lake of Alvie. On the north side of Loch Alvie, a consi- derable way up the hill, and on the moors of Belleville, is to be found the Betula nana, or dwarf birch, a rare plant, which has not been elsewhere discovered in this country. The French willow also grows on the rock behind the house of Belleville. The trees indigenous to the soil of this parish are, birch, alder, mountain-ash, oak, hazel, pine, and aspen tree. Plantations. — On the south-west side of Kinrara, the delightful and romantic residence of the late Duchess of Gordon, her Grace, upwards of thirty years ago, planted an extensive piece of barren moor, chiefly with Scots firs, mingled with some larch trees, that now combine shelter with ornament A few years later, she plant- ed, on the north-east side of Kinrara, a piece of equally barren ground, and nearly of the same extent, with the same kind of wood, which is considerably advanced in growth. The present Duchess of Gordon, following the example of her illustrious predecessor, planted another piece of ground a few years ago, between the Spey and the approach to the cottage of Kinrara, with larch, spruce, and Scotch firs, which are very thriving. Several years before the late Duchess of Gordon began her plantations, James Macpherson, Esq. M. P., the celebrated translator of Ossian's poems, planted several clumps of larch and Scotch firs at Belleville, by which, be- sides the shelter they afibrd, the appearance of the place is beau- tified, and much improved. Mr Macpherson also planted about 200 acres of the same wood, now grown to a large size, on a rock called Craigbuie. II. — Civil History. Historical events, Sfc. — The only historical occurrence of any , interest or importance that has taken place in this parish within ALVIE. 85 the memory of man, is an incident connected with the retreat of some rebels through the parish after the battle of CuUoden. These rebels, after the defeat of the Pretender's army, being reduced to the last extremity, applied to the Rev. Mr William Gordon, then minister of Alvie, for relief. Mr Gordon feelingly sympathised with them in their sufferings, received them hospitably into his house, and humanely afforded them all the relief in his power. Informa- mation was directly conveyed to the Duke of Cumberland, then stationed at Inverness, that the minister of Alvie favoured the rebel- lion by harbouring rebels in his house, and Mr Gordon was in con- sequence summoned to appear before the Duke of Cumberland at Inverness, to answer for his conduct, — when he fearlessly addressed the Duke to the following effect: " May it please your Royal High- ness, I am exceedingly straitened between two contrary commands, both coming from very high authority. My Heavenly King's Son commands to feed the hungry, to clothe the naked, to give meat and drink to my very enemies, and to relieve, to the utmost of my power, all objects in distress indiscriminately, that come in my way. My earthly king's son commands me to drive the houseless wanderer from my door, to shut my bowels of compassion against the cries of the needy, and to withhold from my fellow mortals in distress the relief which is in my power to afford. Pray, which of these com- mands am I to obey ?" — " By all means," replied the Duke, " obey the command of your Heavenly icing's Son ; your character is very different from what it has been represented ; go home in peace, act conformably to the benevolent spirit of that Gospel which you are professedly employed to preach and to explain." Thus ended an interview, from which a very different result had been anticipated ; in a manner equally honourable to the character, both of the hum- ble pastor of the parish of Alvie, and the illustrious Commander- in-Chief. Eminent Characters, 8^c. — The parish of Alvie, although situat- ed in a remote Highland glen, has been honoured for nearly half a century, particularly during the last forty years, with the occa- sional residence and frequent visits of distinguished personages. The late Duchess of Gordon, upwards of thirty years ago, se-. lected for her summer residence, Kinrara, a romantic situation, within less than two miles from the church of Alvie, where she usually resided every year during the remainder of her life, from the beginning of July to the beginning of November. In that de- lightful residence, to which her Grace was enthusiastically at- 86 INVERNESS-SHIRE. tached, she was frequently visited by ladies and gentlemen of the first distinction in both kingdoms. Her remains were brought, at her own' desire, from London, where she died, and inter- red at Kinrara, on the 12th day of May 1812, in a spot of ground which she often pointed out in the course of her walks, as the place where she wished her mortal remains to lie. This spot is marked by a monument erected by her husband, the late Duke of Gordon, constructed of beautiful hewn granite selected among the Grampian mountains, some of them at a distance of more than twenty miles. Soon after the decease of the Duchess of Gordon the Marquis and Marchioness of Huntly took possession of Kinrara, where for several years they resided annually from the beginning of August to the beginning of November, and were visited during that period by their numerous noble friends, from all parts of the kingdom. ♦ Since the Marquis succeeded to the Dukedom of Gordon, their annual visits to Kinrara have been discontinued, and the place has boon let for shooting-quarters to Sir George Sitwell, Baronet. Belleville, a district of this parish, has been rendered classical ground by the residence of James Macpherson, Esq. the collector and translator of Ossian's Poems. By his literary works, Mr Macpherson raised himself from the humble situation of a paro- chial schoolmaster to a distinguished reputation among men of let- ters, and realised an ample fortune, by which he was enabled to purchase a good deal of landed property in his native country. His remains were carried from Belleville, where he died, to West- minster Abbey, and deposited, agreeably to his own particular in- struction, in Poefs Comer. Belleville is now the residence of Sir David Brewster, whose scientific acquirements entitle him to no- tice here, and to whom the writer of this account is indebted for some important information. It is unnecessary to add, that Sir David is a valuable acquisition to the society of this remote but beautiful Highland glen, where he enjoys ease with dignity. Land-owners. — According to Mr Shaw, in his history of the pro- vince of Moray, the Barony of Dunachton came into the possession of the Laird of Mackintosh about the year 1500, by his marrying the heiress, daughter of the Baron of Dunachton. Here Mackintosh had a castle, which was burnt in the year 1689, and was never rebuilt South Kinrara and Dalnavert, the remaining part of Mackintosh's • In autumn 1821, Kinrara was honoured by a visit from Prince Leopold, now King of Belgium ; where he remained ten days, highly gratified with the princely entertainment of Kinrara cottage. ALVIE. 87 property in this parish, commonly called Davochs of the Head, are a part of the compensation given for the head of William the 15th laird of Mackintosh, who was beheaded by order of the Earl of Huntly in the year 1550, when he was paying a friendly visit at Huntly Castle. The lands of Belleville, purchased by the transla- tor of Ossian, were formerly the property of Ned Mackintosh of Borlam, the leader of an infamous gang of robbers, who was ap- prehended, but fled from justice upwards of sixty years ago. The properties of Invereshie and Belleville were held in feu of the Duke of Gordon, till a few years ago, when the superiority was purchased from the late Duke. Parochial Register. — The oldest parochial register of this pa- rish commences in the year 1713, has been very irregularly kept, and throws little or no light on the civil history of the parish. Du- ring the periods in which it was kept with tolerable regularity, it is filled up with disagreeable narratives of sexual immoralities and public exhibitions of feigned repentance on the cutty^stooL Antiquities. — Contiguous to the barrows or tumuli mentioned in the former Statistical Account, there is an extensive plain on which a bloody battle is said to have been fought; but with respect to the cause of-the battle, the time when it was fought, the clan or clans of which the conflicting armies were composed, and the leaders that commanded them, tradition is silent. At Delfour, about a mile west from the church of Alvie, are to be seen the remains of a Druidical cairn, inclosed by a circle of large stones closely set up on end, 55 feet in diameter. Within this circle, and concentric to it, is another circle, similarly inclosed, with stones less in size, 25 feet in diameter. At the distance of 25 feet west from the cairn stands an obelisk, 8 feet 6 inches high, 5 feet broad at the bottom, and 15 inches thick, diminishing gra- dually in breadth from the bottom, till it terminates at the top in 6 inches. Whether this obelisk had any connection with the ido- latry practised at the cairn contiguous to it, or whether it was placed to mark the grave of some distinguished personage, is not known. Such, however, is the veneration in which these relics of an- tiquity are held even at the present day, that although both the cairn and the obelisk stand in the middle of an arable field, and oc- casion a considerable interruption to the operation of the plough, no attempt has been hitherto made to remove the one or the other.* * Within a clump of larch trees, planted about half a mile south-west from tlic house of Belleville^ and contiguous to the public road, a beautiful marble obelisk 88 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Concerning the cave at Raitts near Belleyille, slightly noticed in the former Statistical Account, several ciuious facts have been handed down by tradition, which here deserve to be recorded. This cave, of which the excavation when entire amounted to 145 solid yards, was artificially built round with dry stones, and covered on the top with large gray flags, by a desperate band of depredators, nine in number, commonly called Clannmhicgillena'- oidh. It is not certain to what particular clan these depredators belonged. Instigated by implacable revenge against the Macpher- sons, on account of some deadly feud, they secretly dug the cave, which is called, after their name, Uaigh Clannmhicyillenaoidh^ as a place of concealment, from which they occasionally sallied forth in the night time to steal and to slaughter the cattle of the Mac- phersons, wherever they could be found. Over the cave was erect- ed a turf cottage or dwelling-house, such as the people of the coun- try inhabited at the time, the inmates of which enjoyed the con- fidence of ClannmhicffiUenaoidhj were the depositaries of their se- crets, and participated along with them in the spoils of the Mac- phersons. The Macphersons finding the number of their cattle daily diminishing, made a strict search after them, but for a long time without efiect. At length appearances were noticed about the hut erected over the cave, which excited a strong suspicion that the lurking place of those depredators could not be very dis- tant from that hut. This suspicion was increased by the inhospi- table churlishness of the landlord, who, contrary to the custom of the times, would permit no stranger to lodge for a single night in his house. Accordingly the Macphersons sent one of their number as a spy in the garb of a beggar, to solicit a night's lodging in the sus- pected hut ; and feigning illness from a fit of the gravel, the beggar was allowed to remain in a barn or outhouse for the night. The beggar being thus disposed of, the most active preparations com- menced within the house for a sumptuous entertainment ; and the feast being prepared, a large flag was raised in the centre of the house, on which Clannmhicgillenaoidh came out, feasted on the Macpherson's choicest beef, along with the inmates of the house, and then spent the remainder of the night in search of a fresh sup- stands, on which is sculptured a bust, exhibiting a very striking likeness of the tran- slator of Ossian. On the summit of Tor Alvic, a conspicuous hill, situated north-west from the ro- mantic cottage of Kinrara, a monument has been erected by his Grace the present Duke of Gordon, with a beautiful brass plate on the side fronting Kinrara. On this plate is an inscription commemorative of the officers of the 42d and 92d Regiments who fell at Waterloo. ALVIE. 89 ply. The beggar observed all that passed through an aperture on the side of the hut, and returned to report what he had seen. In consequence of the discovery thus made, the Macphersons collect- ed a strong party on the following night, seized and massacred the whole band of CUmnmhicgiUenaoidh, in the cave, demolished the hut erected over it, and thus put an end to these freebooters, and to all their depredations. The pretended beggar by whom Clann- mhicffillenaoidh were betrayed was called Ian Mac Eoghaiwn, or John Macewan, and the tribe of the Macphersons descended from him are distinguished by the appellation of Sliochd Ian Mhiceo^ ffhainn, that is John Macewan's descendants. It is said that all this tribe have ever since been peculiarly liable, at some period of life, to be more or less afflicted with gravel. On the meadow of Belleville, between the public road and the Spey, is to be seen Lochandu, celebrated in Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's novel of that name. This is a pond nearly of an oval shape, formed by the Spey, before any embankment had been rais- ed to protect the adjacent meadows from the inundations of that river. Lochandu was surrounded with a thick belt of natural birch trees, that hid 'it from the sight, till the late Mr Macpherson of Belleville, in the course of his improvements, laid it open to view, by rooting out the trees, and converting the ground about it to arable land. The dark grove, formed by the trees about Loch- andu, is said to have been a place of nocturnal rendezvous, where Borlum of infamous memory, and his gang of depredators, usually met to plan their predatory excursions.* Modern Buildings. — There are only two buildings in the parish entitled to particular notice. The first of these is the house of Belleville, built by the translator of Ossian, after a design by the celebrated architect, Robert Adam, Esq. It stands on a beauti- ful eminence, conspicuous from the public road, sheltered on the north by a plantation of Scotch fir and larch, now grown to a consi- derable size, and by the beautiful rock of Craigbuie, covered with natural birch, among which are some trees of unusual magnitude. The lawn in front of the house is adorned with upwards of 100 large trees of hard wood, and a fine row of elms along the Old Mi- litary Road, planted by Brigadier Mackintosh in 1715. The other is the house of Kinrara, built by the late Duchess of Gordon, in the form of a cottage, on a very sequestered and romantic spot, * Here Borlum murdered, or caused to be murdered, a senrant of his own, for re- fusing to go alone with him across the Spey to rob the house of a weaver in Killi. huntly, who was known to have a good deal of money. 90 INVERNESS-SHIRE. and embosomed in wood. It has been so enlarged from time to time, that it has now become an extensive building, and affords con- siderable accommodation. III. — Population. The population of the parish of Alvie, as far back as it can be traced, is as follows, viz. According to the return to Dr Webster in 1755, - 1021 By the last Statistical Account in 1792, - 1011 By the Government census in 1811, - 961 Do. do. 1821, - 963 Do. do. 1831, - 1092 The cause of increase in the population at the last census was the return of pensioners, who were serving in the army, during the late war, and the continuance of young men in the country, on account of the difficulty of procuring employment elsewhere since the ter- mination of the war. The annual average of births for the last seven years is 30 Do. do. of deaths, for do. 15 Do. do. of marriages for do. 8 The average number of persons under ]5 years of age is 387 Betwixt 15 and 30 - - - - 269 Betwixt 30 and 50, .... 2.51 Upwards of 70, - - - - • 48 The number of unmarried men upwards of 50 years is 18 of unmarried women upwards of 45, 42 of fatuous persons, - - 2 of persons deaf and dumb, > 1 The average number of children in each family, - 3 The number of families in the parish, - - - - 238 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - • 91 in trade, manufactiu-es, or handicraft, 36 Character^ S^c. of the People. — The inhabitants of the parish in . general are below the middle size; but they are uncommonly hardy, and capable of enduring much fatigue and privation. The lan- guage spoken by the common peoplef, particularly by the old, is the Gaelic; but the young of both sexes speak and understand the Eng- lish language, and are daily becoming more and more indifferent about their native tongue. The only amusements prevalent in this parish are camack matches, raffles, and dancing. The old people are rather slovenly in their dress ; but the young have a laudable taste for cleanliness, and an ambition for finery sometimes beyond their means. Potatoes and milk may be said to constitute the prin- cipal food of the peasantry : for all the meal which the small tenants can raise on their farms, in their mode of cultivating them, would not support their families during one- third of the year. The great- est part of the little butter and cheese they make, they must sell to pay the rent ; and in regard to animal food, such as beef, mutton, ALVIE. 91 and poultry, that is a luxury in which the small tenants never in- dulge, except at marriage feasts, baptisms, Christmas, and new year. They are on the whole, however, contented with their situation : and considering their limited means of information, they are sur- prisingly intelligent and well informed, naturally inquisitive and shrewd in their remarks, and always ready to communicate what they know in exchange for the information they receive. They are sober and industrious in their habits, just and honest in their dealings, and, with a few exceptions, correct and regular in their moral conduct. Their attainments in religious knowledge are not high; but the measure of knowledge to which they have attained is ^ solid and rational, tending more to influence their conduct than tq^ puff" them up with self-conceit. They are not readily carried about by every wind of doctrine, nor captivated by the noisy declamation of vagrant preachers. There have been three illegitimate births in the parish during , the last three years. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres in the parish, distinguish- ing arable, meadow, pasture, ground covered with wood, moor, and hill, together with the rental of the different properties may be stated as follows, viz. Proprietors, - Arable. ▲. &. F. Pasture. A R. r. Wood, bill, &c. A. &. F. Total. A. &. F Rental. L. 8. D. Duke of Gordon, Invereshie, - - Belleville, - - Mackintosh, - 520 1 7 347 3 17 620 3 554 1 4 312 2 27 220 3 30 313 3 20 314 1 28 12945 3 8675 3 28 4760 11784 3 25 13797 3 27 9244 3 3 5964 2 20 12653 2 21 500 329 13 8 790 803 17 6 41660 3 35 2423 11 2 RcTit of Land. — The average rent of arable land is from 15s. to L, 1 per acre Scotch. The average rate of grazing a cow is K 1, 10s., and for a full-grown sheep 2s. per annum. The rate for farm la- bour is, in winter. Is., and in summer Is. 6d. per day, including maintenance. The rate of carpenter work is 2s. and of mason work, 2s. 6d. per day, when the day admits of working from six o'clock in the morning till six o'clock in the evening. Live-stock. — The breed of sheep commonly reared in the pa- rish is the black-faced. In general no great attention has been paid hitherto, to the improvement of sheep or black cattle, and still less attention has been paid by the common or small tenants to the cultivation of the soil. Htubandry. — The absurd and unproductive system of farming 92 INVERNESS-SHIRE. pursued by their rude ancestors from time immemorial is still con- tinued by the tenants who have but small holdings, to the preju- dice of their own interest, as well as to the deterioration of the small pendicles of land which they occupy. The little manure they collect, they lay on the patches of ground nearest to their dwelling-houses, which they keep in perpetual rotation of potatoes, barley, and oats, without ever resting them, till the ground is very greatly reduced. The distant parts of the farm, which they call but-fields, never receive a single load of manure, but are allowed to lie waste for three years, and cropped again for three years alternately, — the last crop scarcely returning the seed. They seldom or never think of removing a stone out of their way, or of draining away the redundant moisture that chills the ground, and renders it unfit for bearing. The tenants occupying small pendi- cles have neither skill nor capital for carrying on an improved sys- tem of farming ; but if they had both, it cannot be denied that very little encouragement has been hitherto given by the proprie- tors of land, to improving tenants. On a lease of from seven to ele- ven years, the longest given till of late in the parish, without any security to an improving tenant for payment of his outlays, in case of being removed from his farm at the expiration of a short lease, no expensive improvement will ever be attempted. Another in- surmountable obstacle in the way of agricultural improvement is the absurd division of the land among the small tenants. It is not uncommon to see a piece of land, not half an acre in extent, di- vided into five or six lots, called run-rigs; which makes it impossi- ble for any one of the six to improve his small lot, unless the other five concur with him. With the exception of two or three farms, there are no farm enclosures of any description in the parish; and the farm-buildings of the common tenants are most wretched ho- vels, consisting of a few wooden couples, joined together with cross spars, and covered with a turf roof, that requires to be renewed al- most every second year. Recent improvements, — Considerable improvements in agricul- ture have been made of late by a few individuals, whose example, it is to be hoped, others will be induced to follow. Mr Mac- pherson of Belleville made very extensive improvements on that part of his property which he himself farmed. By embankments, draining, paring, grubbing, &c he reclaimed upwards of 300 Scotch acres of meadow ground, naturally fertile, but rendered comparatively unproductive by the overflowing of the river Spey, 3 ALVIE. 9J which he converted to fine arable land, capable of yielding verj rich crops. He also converted a considerable extent of ground covered with wood to arable land, which is at present under a re- gular rotation of crops, along with the rest of the farm. Mr John Russel, tacksman of Kincraig, the property of the Laird of Mackin-* tosh, is a very industrious and improving tenant. On a low mea- dow attached to his farm, he has, by draining, paring, and digging up large blocks of moss-fir, converted about twenty acres of in- different pasture to rich arable land. At Dalnavert, also the pro- perty of the Laird of Mackintosh, Mr James Clark, the present tacksman, nearly doubled the arable land of that farm, by drain- ing, grubbing, and embanking, since he came into the possession of it. At Dalraddy, the property of Mr Macpherson Grant of Ballindalloch, an improved system of farming has been recently commenced, which, when carried into effect, will greatly increase the value of that part of Ballindalloch's property. The Duke of Gordon's lands having been lately divided into improveable lots, it is to be hoped that the tenants will adopt a more improved system of farming. Produce. — Produce of grain of all kinds in the parish, - - L. 3586 5 Potatoes and turnipS) &c - - - - - J16440 Clover and meadow-hay, ..... 586 3 4 Land in pasture, at 30s. per full-grown ox> and 2b. for a full grown sheep, ....... 1936 8 Total yearly value of raw produce, L. 7273 4 V. — Parochial Economy. Market'TotmiSy Sfc. — There is no market-town in the parish : the nearest market-town, to which the people can bring the over- plus of their farm produce, is Inverness, situated not less than thirty- five miles from the northern extremity of the parish. A village has been commenced near the southern, or rather south-west ex- tremity of the parish, called Lynchat, on the property of Belle- ville : — it is yet only in its infancy. Means of Communication, — The parish has a communication by post with the south, three times a-week, by Kingussie, Blair-in- Athol, and Perth ; and also with the north by Grantown, Forres, and Inverness. There is no post-office in the parish ; but there is a receiving-house or sub-office, at Lynviulg, within less than half a mile from the church, which affords great accommodation. Pvblic Roads and Carriages. — The great public road from Edin- burgh to Inverness passes through the whole length of this parish ; but although toll-gates have been lately placed upon this road, it 94 INVERNESS-SHIRE. is in some places so narrow as scarcely to admit of two carriages passing abreast The only public carriage that travels on this road is the Caledonian, or, as it is commonly called, the Highland coach. It runs three times a-week for nine months of the year, and for the other three, only twice a-week. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is ex- tremely inconvenient to the greater part of the population. It is situated in a corner of the parish, at the distance of eight miles from the one, and only two miles from the other extremity. It was built in the year 1798, and was substantially repaired two years ago. There are seats for 500, all free, — which affords sufficient ac- commodation for as many of the parishioners as can attend 'public worship in the parish church; but had the church been centrical- ly situated, the accommodation would be deficient. The manse was built in 1810, and was repaired last year. The glebe is very small. At the admission of the present incumbent in 1806, there were scarcely three acres of arable ground ; but by trenching, grub- bing and liming, the arable land may now be estimated at about ten acres. The stipend is one of those augmented by the Govern- ment, and consequently amounts only to L. 150 per annum, exclu- sive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There is a Govern- ment church at Inch, within four miles of the church of Alvie ; and the district assigned to it includes a portion of this parish called Da- voch of Invermarkie, containing a population of nearly 200. There are no sectaries in the parish, with the exception of two Roman Ca- tholics and one Baptist Owing to the inconvenient situation of the church, alreadv adverted to, it is not so well attended as it would have been otherwise, more particularly in the winter season. The number of communicants, exclusive of those residing in the district connected with the Government church at Inch, is 100. The number of male heads of families in communion with the Church, exclusive of the district connected with the parish of Inch quoad sacruj is 38. Education, — There are only two permanent schools in the parish ; the parochial school, and a school supported by the Committee of the General Assembly. There is a private school taught at Raitts, a remote district of the parish, only in the winter season, and sup- ported by the parents of the children attending; a situation in which a permanent school is much required. The branches of education taught in the parochial school are, Latin, English read- ing, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and geography. The same branches are taught in the two inferior ALVIE. 95 schools, with the exception of Latin, book-keeping and geography, and with the addition of Gaelic^ The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 30, exclusive of two guineas in lieu of a garden. The school fees may be estimated at L. 20 per annum ; and the accommodation is liberal. The salary of the teacher of the As- sembly's school is L. 20, and the school fees may amount to about L. 10 per annum. It was estimated in 1833, that there were in the parish, upwards of six years of age unable to read, 342 per- sons ; and betwixt six and fifteen years of age, 26. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor on the parish roll is from 20 to 24. The annual amount of contribu- tion for their relief is from L. 12 to L. 15 per annum, arising from collections in the church and penalties exacted from delinquents ; and this small sum is distributed among them only once a year. The poor in general depend, for the most part, on their own in- dustry, and the assistance of their nearest relations. They are very reluctant, till compelled by dire necessity, to make application for parochial aid. To receive assistance from the parish fund is con- sidered degrading, and consequently is the last resource of the helpless and indigent Fuel. — Peats and wood are the fuel commonly used in the parish. Both these kinds of fuel are at so great a distance, and procured at so enormous an expense, that coals carried from Inverness to a distance of forty miles, are considered, by those who understand the management of them, cheaper fuel than either of these kinds. VI. — Miscellaneous Observations. Since the time of the former Statistical Account, various changes have taken place in the state of the country, the mode of cultivation, the value of land and farm produce ; and in the manners, character, and circumstances of the people. In re- gard to the state of the country and the mode of cultivation, it may be observed, that a spirit of improvement has been lately ex- cited among the tenants in general, which, if suitably encouraged by their landlords, will, in the course of some time, greatly ame- liorate their condition. Farming operations are at present con- ducted with more taste and better skill than they formerly were. Turnip and grass husbandry has of late years been carried on by tenants even of small holdings. Here and there pieces of waste ground, which, in the state of nature, were of little or no value, have been brought into culture by trenching and liming, &c. and rendered productive of both grass and corn. In consequence of these improvements, the parish, even in its present state, pro- 96 INVERNESS-SniRE. duces meal more than sufficient for the consumption of all the in- habitants, which renders it independent of the supplies formerly procured at a high price from Strathspey, from the low parts of Moray, and sometimes even from Banffshire. But all the advantages resulting from these improvements are more than counterbalanced by a variety of adverse circumstances, with which the farmer has to contend. Since the commencement of the late expensive war, besides taxes and public burdens, the rent of the land and the wages of farm-servants have been more than tripled over the whole parish. During the continuance of the war, the price of cattle and sheep, on which all High- land tenants chiefly depend, was so high, that the tenants were enabled to bear those heavy burdens ; but in the present state of things, it is entirely out of their power to pay the rents then im- posed upon them. Since the peace, the price of cattle has been so much reduced, that sometimes three can scarcely be sold at the price formerly received for one; while the rent, the expense of farm labour, and public burdens, continue still the same without any sensible diminution. The unavoidable consequence of keep- ing up the rent in those circumstances, is the accumulation of arrears to a most enormous amount ; which, if rigorously exacted, would totally ruin the tenants presently in possession, and eventu- ally affect the interests of the land proprietors. The means most likely to remedy those evils would be, to give longer leases to improving tenants, to make an adequate allowance for liming the land, to reduce the rent so as to meet the pressure of the times, to make the reduction annually dependent upon im- proving the fifth or sixth part of the arable land, according to the plan of improvement agreed upon, and to continue the reduction, till the land is brought under a complete rotation. A farm thus improved would enable the tenant to live more comfortably, and, at the same time, to pay a much higher rent than he can possibly do with all his industry in the present scourged state of the land. It wodd also very much encourage industry and improvement, if the tenants were allowed to build comfortable dwelling-cottages, and farm-houses proportionate in extent to the value of their respec- tive farms, with security of indemnification for their outlays, at the expiration of their lease ; instead of the miserable huts in which they and their cattle are on the present system so wretchedly ac- commodated. April 1835. UNITED PARISHES OF MOY AND UALARROSSTE. PRESBYTERY OF INVERNESS, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. JAMES M'LAUCHLAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. There is perhaps not a parish in Scotland which has undergone less change than this, since the time of the former Account. The face of the country, the state of agriculture, and the manners of the people, are still the same; the latter perhaps a little modified by the influence of education. Names. — As may seen by the title, this parish is divided into two, one called Moy, and the other Dalarrossie ; they were united at a time of which we have no record either written or traditionaL The name of the former is derived from the word Maghj a plain, corresponding with the nature of the ground which lies within the distance of two miles round the church ; while the name of the latter is generally supposed to be from the Gaelic Dalferghaisj signifying Fergus's Dale, — this being, as tradition says, one of the hunting grounds of Fergus the First of Scotland. This is, however, usurping too high a dignity for the place, which at least, in its pre- sent state, offers few attractions for a kingly residence. Extent J Boundaries. — The united parishes extend, in length, to about 30 miles in a south-westerly direction, and in breadth to about 5 miles. Topographical Appearances. — The greater part of the parish is composed of cold bleak hills ; while the inhabited portion is merely a narrow stripe lying along each side of the river Findhom. It is, in fact, merely a mountain glen, — through which this river flows, hav- ing rapid streams joining it, which pour down their torrents through every hollow in the mountains. The glen is at an average about three quarters of a mile in breadth, and at every turn of the river is studded with farm housei, to which a few arable acres are at- tached. Towards the lower end of the glen, the river is joined by another smaller stream called the Funtack, which issues out of INVERNESS. G 98 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Loch Moy ; on the banks of which, the church of Moy is situated. The larger glen or strath, together with the smaller one of the Funtack, form the whole parish. It is commonly called Strath- dearn, from uisge Eire^ the Gaelic name of the river Findhorn. The whole of the strath was formerly under wood, the remains of which are still extant in the shape of bog-fir. The mountain ranges are not remarkable either for their height or their formation ; the high- est is perhaps not more than 2500 feet above the level of the sea. There is but one range of any importance, — called the Monadh^lia hills, which extend from Strathdearn, in both directions, towards Badenoch and Stratherrick. It is one of the widest ranges in Scotland, and is stocked with deer and abundance of game. This range is intersected with numerous valleys or glens ; through the largest of which flows the Findhorn, before it enters the inhabited part of the district This stream rises out of a very extraordinary stone, called the Clach Sgoilte^ or cloven stone, from the stream issuing through a rent in the stone. This stone is at the very head of the valley, which, below this, is joined by various other minor glens, each contributing its share to swell the waters of the Findhorn. These glens are called shealings ; and the High- landers were in the habit of driving their cattle to feed in them during the warm season, — where they found abundance of the rich- est natural grass. After entering the inhabited country, there are few valleys in the mountains, — with the exception, perhaps, of a few pretty deep hollows formed by burns, and which are generally cul- tivated for about half a mile. In the mountains, there are no caverns or natural excavations, if we except one spot called Ciste Chraig an Eoin (the chest of Craig an Eoin,) which is a circular hollow surrounded with high rocks, and accessible only through one narrow entrance. This hollow is situated about a mile from the church of Moy ; and from being quite close to the pass called Starsach na Gael, " the gate of the Highlands," it was used as a place of concealment for their wives and children by the Highlanders during their predatory excursions into the low country. Here it was that Donald Fraser Smith, at Moy, defeated Lord Loudon, who commanded the King's troops at Inverness during the Rebellion of 1745 and 1746. * Quite • Loudon had obtained information, that Prince Charles Stuart was at Moy Hall ; upon which he immediately set off from InverneA witli a considerable body of troops, in order to take him prisoner. Lady Mackintosh being apprised of this movenient, ordered Fraser to collect as many men as he could, and to endeavour to stop him. Fraser obeyed her orders, and on coming to Craig an Eoin stationed his men in such MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 99 close to this place, is also a green spot called Uaigh an duine^ bheOf " the living man's grave," with which the following tradition is connected : A dispute having arisen concerning their marches, between the Laird of Mackintosh and Dunmaglass, the latter offered to find a man who would declare upon oath that the spot indicated by him was the exact march, with the condition, that if found to swear falsely, he was to be buried alive. The man was brought forward to the spot, swore by the head under his bonnet and the earth under his feet, that he stood on Dunma- glass's land. On being examined, however, it was found, that he had filled his shoes partly with soil from the acknowledged property of Dunmaglass, and that he had a cock's head in his bonnet, probably that he might save his own, and that he might not be considered perjured for swearing by the head of a cock. He was, however, found guilty, and paid the penalty of his temerity by be- ing buried alive. Meteorology, — From the elevation of this district above the level of the sea, (about 800 feet at an average,) and the number of high hills which surround it, the temperature is very cold. In summer, the average height of the thermometer is about 68° Fahrenheit in the shade ; but often it is much higher. In winter, it is remarkable as being perhaps the coldest district in Scotland. There are of- ten great falls of snow, when at Inverness, which is only twelve miles distant, the plough may be seen at work. Indeed, for some years before the winter of 1834, the frost has been so severe, that Loch Moy has been frozen over for two months; and in March 1833 the ice was so firm, that a gentleman drove a tandem round the island which is in the middle of it. Funerals also often cross the Find- horn on the ice. The Aurora Borealis is very common, and some- times vies in brilliancy with the description given by Captain Parry of its appearance on the coast of North America. In autumn 1833, it was visible every clear night for two months; and some- times, the prismatic colours are as distinct as if formed by a prism. This strath is very subject to high winds, which come down sometimes in fearful eddies through the glen, unroofing houses, and tearing up trees. The prevailing winds are the westerly and the south-easterly, the former blowing during part of the summer, the whole of autumn, and part of the winter months ; the latter, generally during the remaining months, especially those of March, a manner, that Loudon thought there wris a groat body of men opposed to him; on which he immediately fell back upon Inverness. 100 INVERNESS-SHIRE. April, and May. The inhabitants here, as in every other part of the Highlands, are particularly accustomed to foretel the weather from natural phenomena. — This parish is perhaps one of the most healthy in Scotland, if we may judge from the number of people who arrive at a very advanced age. There are many now in the parish who are eighty, eighty-five, and ninety years old, and still retain their faculties entire ; and some years ago a woman died at the age of a hundred. Scrofulous affections are becoming com- mon ; and consumptions, fevers, and nervous disorders, are by no means unknown. Hydrography > — This parish is wholly inland, and is, at the near^ est point, ten miles distant from the sea. There is but one lake of any importance, — called Loch Moy ; it is about a mile and a half long, and about half a mile broad. Its depth in some places has been found to be eighteen fathoms ; this is, however, far from be- ing the average. The lake is situated close to the House of Moy Hall, which stands on the north side, and to the manse and church of Moy, situated on the south. It is surrounded by wood, and the hanging birch copse has in summer a beautiful appearance. There are two islands in the lake, in one of which stands the ruins of the old residence of the family of Mackintosh. A street has also been traced in it, so that it is probable that part of his clan lived in the island with their chief. There stands also on the is- land a handsome monument, built in 1824, by Lady Mackintosh, in memory of her husband, Sir ^neas Mackintosh, Bart. It is an elegant building, in the shape of a tapering square pillar, and cost about L. 1000. The other island is merely a heap of stones, pro- bably artificial, and was used by the lairds of Mackintosh as a pri- son. In the memory of men now living, there was a gallows standing upon it, which the lairds used for execution. Some years ago, there was a cannon ball of about ten pounds weight, found buried in the large island; and on the south side of the lake there was a sort of causeway discovered, in the middle of which there was a large paved circle, with an immense stone perforated like a mill-stone in the centre. This was supposed to be a way made for carrying cannon, and perhaps the ball may go so far to prove this; but the true nature of it is difficult to ascertain. Towards the north-west end of the lake, there are a number of chalybeate springs ; one of them seems to be impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen, but the exact pro- portions have not been ascertained. These have been tried as to their medical properties and with considerable success. The cha- MOy AND DALARROSSIE. 101 lybeate springs (one in particular) throw up an immense quantity of slimy red matter, which very soon chokes up the fountain, if not cleared away. From the quantity thrown up, the mineral body which impregnates the water must exist in great abundance. There is but one river of importance which flows through the pa« rish ; that, as mentioned already, is the Findhom. It rises in the Monadh'lia hills, and, after a very rapid course of sixty miles, falls into the Moray Frith at Findhoni, near Forres. Its Gaelic name is Eirij or, as pronounced, Eur. It is renmrkable for the rapidity with which it rises and falls. It has been known to rise within such a short space of time, that persons crossing it, where it was quite low, have been overtaken in a moment, and carried away by the irresistible torrent. Its course is so rapid that it never me- anders, and often carries away great portions of the soil, in forming a straight course for itself. The stream is, however, easily forded in summer. It is crossed by two bridges within the parish ; and when practicable, the people cross it in other parts upon stilts. One of the bridges is entirely built of wood ; and a temporary sub- stitute for the stone one was carried off by the great flood in 1829. The other is a fine new building with stone pillars and a wooden frame-work, built by Messrs Gibb of Aberdeen, at the cost of L. 2600 Sterling. It is unnecessary here to give an account of the losses occa- sioned by the flood in 1829, as there is such an accurate one af- forded by Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, and likewise because the loss in this district, though great, was not so great as in many others, if we except that of bridges, all of which, we believe, with the ex- ception of two, were carried off by the force of the streams. These are now replaced, and, except in one place, where the river changed its course entirely, and destroyed one of the richest flats of land in the parish, the country is in the same state as it was in, before that awful visitation. Geology. — There is little interesting in the geological formation of this parish. The primitive rocks are granite and gneiss, which are rarely if ever covered with secondary strata. The action of great bodies of water is everywhere evident from the nature of the surfaces of the hills. In the upper part, where the fall is greatest, the hills rise almost perpendicularly from the river ; lower down, the nature of the soil admitted of a greater excavation, — whence the strath widens, and at the lower extremity there seems to have been the bed of a lake, which was drained by the water cutting through 102 1NV£RN£SS-SH1RE. the barrier of hills which restrained it Whether this was a dilu- vian or a post-diluvian action, it is impossible to say; but the quan- tity and the power of the water must have been prodigious. Tliis circumstance is noticed with great clearness in Sir. Thomas Dick Lauder's Account. His estimate of the height of the lake of Moy above the river, however, is erroneous ; instead of being eighteen, it is about thirty feet ; and the ascent from that till the river could fall into the Nairn, is at least thirty more, — so that the lake must have extended all the way up to this extreme height, which is at least eight miles, or the river must have excavated its channel to the present level below that height ; — the latter is the more likely supposition, and if it could be ascertained what time the river takes to excavate a certain depth, the time at which the change of course took place might be discovered. Zoology. — The animals in this district are the same as those com- mon to the other parishes around. They are red-deer, roe, hares, foxes, polecats, wild cats, weasels, &c. There have been two of a species not common in the Highlands shot lately in the parish. It is, we believe, called the martin cat, brown over the back, and white along the belly and neck, and about two feet and a half in length from the point of the nose to the tip of the tail, and nine inches in height. It generally lodges in old birds' nests. Except these two, no others of the kind have been here seen. There are no other animals any way remarkable now existing ; but there are numerous indications of the wolf, chiefly in the traps formed for taking them.* The fish in the waters of this parish are chiefly salmon, river trout, char, and eel. The former come up the Findhorn, — though of late years the strictness maintained in the cruives at Forres has rendered them very scarce. This has led people to kill them with torches in close-time, — by which means they destroy more fish than they could kill in twenty years by the rod. The Findhorn is an excellent trouting stream ; there is not perhaps a better in the north. The fish, though not particularly large, are excellent, and they take a fly with great readiness. Loch Moy is more noted for its char than for its trout. The former are caught in great abundance • Tlie method of taking this animal practised in the Highlands was as follows : a large deep hole was dug in some place frequented by the wolf; half way across the mouth of the pit a broad plank was projected, about half of which lay upon the ground, and had upon the end farthest from the pit a weight sufficient to balance a wolf, until pretty fir advanced above the pit ; on the other end was placed a bait, and the remainder of the pit was covered over with brush- wood, so as to de- ceive the animal. The wolf advanced to the bait along the plank which, when he overbalanceti the weight on the other end, immediately fell in, and he was precipi- tated into the piu Numerous remains of these pits are still in existence. 4 MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 103 with a net, as they do not take the fly ; and if properly prepared they would, we doubt not, equal the potted char of the Cumberland lakes. The trout go up the burns to spawn in the beginning of November, — when immense numbers of them are killed with spears, — a practice which ought to be stopped by the legislature, as it is most destructive to the fish, not only here but all over the High- lands. The char spawn by the sides of the lake in October ; and this is the time in which they are considered most delicate. The parish is well stocked with grouse, ptarmigan, &c. ; and their usual accompaniments, English sportsmen, are not wanting. In fact, the one seems now to be as closely connected with the other, as cause and effect, and the only thing which will ever put a stop to it, is the annihilation of the grouse — an event which does not seem far distant. Botany, — The plants in the parish are those common in every Highland district ; and, as far as is yet known, there is but one very rare plant to be found. This is the Orobus niger^ which was dis- covered in the year 1820 by Dr Alexander M'Lauchlan; and a specimen was sent by him to Dr Hooker, Glasgow. The locali- ty of the plant is in Craig an Eoin, the rock already referred to, as being about a mile to the west of the church of Moy. Many sci- entific gentlemen have searched for it since, but I believe have always failed of obtaining it, probably from not being acquainted with the exact situation in which it is to be found. The plants used as medicine are chiefly the leaf of the whortleberry, tussila- go, &c. and the people generally bind up wounds with a blade of common cabbage, or a leaf of tobacco. In dyeing, they use the bark of the common alder, which, with copperas, produces a fine black. They also dye green and yellow with heather. They likewise dye various other colours, but black, blue, green, and red are those universally used for their clothing. The common alder is prevalent about lakes, and on the borders of rivers, and in marshy places ; but the country also affords fir, ash, aspen, larch, (lately introduced,) birch, mountain-ash, and some other hard- wood trees when planted in favourable situations. Fir, birch, and mountain-ash are, however, the most general. Of the former there are several plantations belonging to Mackintosh of Mackin- tosh, which are very thriving ; but the largest are on the property of Mr Macbean of Tomatin. He has about 80 acres in full growth, and has lately planted trees to the number of one million and a 104 INVERNESS-SHIRE. half. There are also some very thriving plantations on the pro- perties of Corrybrough (H. Macqueen Esq.) and of Dalmigavie (Campbell Mackintosh, Esq.) Larch is now coming into general use, and in every plantation it forms the one-half at least There are some fine old plane and ash trees in the island of Loch Moy, which must have stood there several centuries ; and there are still to be traced there the remains of a garden, in some cherry and gean trees, which surround part of the old castle. IL — Civil History. Any account which can be obtained of the ancient history of the parbh must be derived from tradition, as there are few if any writ- ten records. There is, however, one manuscript kept in Moy Hall, written by Lady Ann Duff, giving an account of the Rebellion in 1715, with a very interesting account of many other events, which took place prior to that period. This lady was the wife of Lach- lan Mackintosh, Esq. of Mackintosh, and acted a conspicuous part during the Rebellion. The Presbytery records carry the history back as far as 1680 ; but part of the session records were destroyed several years ago, from the school-house taking fire. We learn from the former, that Episcopal jurisdiction continued till about the year 1727, when the first Presbyterian minister (Mr Leslie) was settled. It is related in proof of the barbarous state of the country, that the first time Mr Leshe went to preach in Dalarros- sie, he found a great multitude of people putting the stone, and amusing themselves otherwise about the church. He found it impossible to gain a hearing, until he agreed to try his strength in putting the stone, on condition that they would agree to join him af- terwards in the church, if he should be found to surpass them. Mr Leslie being a powerful man distanced them all, — which so attract- ed the respect of the people, that he soon brought them round to regularity and order. The traditional history is principally taken up with the feuds of the Mackintoshs and the Cummings; and many tumuli are pointed out as the graves of the slain. Some of these have been opened and bones found ; and stone arrow-heads and dirks have also been discovered on the battle fields, several of which are now deposited in the Inverness museum. There is one extra- ordinary coup du main, related of a Mackintosh during these wars, which has been referred to in a very correct work, lately published, by the Messrs Anderson, Solicitors, of Inverness. The circumstances of the case were as follows .-—During a long war between these two MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 105 hostile dans, the Cummings had at length driven the Mackintoshs for refuge into the island of Loch Moy. Here they formed the re- solution of damming the loch, where the Funtack issues from it, and thus, by raising the water, to cover the island and drown them. They proceeded with their plan till the Mackintoshs were on the eve of destruction, when one of the latter offered, if allowed, to liberate themselves and destroy the Cummings. He accordingly got a raft made, and supplying himself with corks or wooden plugs and twine, he descended in the dead of night to the dam. This was lined, towards the water, with boards, through which the adventurer bor- ed a number of holes with an auger, and in each hole he put a plug with a string attached. All these were attached to one general rope, which, when all was ready, he pulled. When the plugs were extracted, the water rushed out with fearful force, carried away the turf bank, and the whole army of the Cummings, who were encamp- ed behind it. It is said that the daring adventurer perished with his enemies, the force of the water being so great, when the dam gave way, that it swept raft and man along with it That this event took place at Loch Moy is evident from uniform tradition, from the nature of the place where the dam was erected, it being a narrow gorge easily admitting of such a construction, and also from the fact, that in cleaning the mouth of the lake, some years ago, a number of stakes and beams were discovered fixed about six feet under the surface of the ground, which were evident- ly fitted for cross boards, and which, from their appearance, must have lain there from time immemorial. Both lakes may claim the honour of this transaction ; but Lochindorb does not seem so well fitted for it, and £dward HI. was not a man to be taken in such a manner. Eminent Men. — The only eminent literary individual of whom the parish can boast, is Sir James Mackintosh, Knight, a name wel^fitted to cast a lustre round any spot in the world. He was descended of the ancient family of Killachy ; and although born in the parish of Dores, whither his mother had gone to visit a rela- tion, he spent the greater part of his youth on his paternal pro- perty. Although obliged to part with his paternal inheritance, and remove from the land of his youth, by his numerous literary and political avocations, he never forgot it, but during his whole life- time took an interest in every thing which regarded it. Land-oioners. — -The number of heritors is eleven, most of them with very small holdings. These are Mackintosh of Mackintosh ; 106 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Mackintosh of Holm ; Mackintosh of Killachy ; Macbean of To- matin; Mackintosh of Aberarder; Earl of Moray; Mackintosh of Dalmigavie; Mackintosh of Balnespuk; Macqueen of Corry- brough ; the Earl of Cawdor ; and Mackintosh of Raigmore. Of these not one resides in the parish, except Mr Macbean of To- matin, who spends part of the summer months in it. This is a great disadvantage to the district, as non-resident proprietors are the bane of any country. Till of late the niunber of gentlemen farmers made up the loss ; but of these, there is not one now to whom the country people can refer, so that the clergyman is oblig- ed to take on himself the duty of a Justice of Peace. Parochial Registers. — As mentioned already, the old parochial registers were destroyed by fire. There is now, however, one of births kept. The other business which comes before a session is generally of such a nature, that the recording of it could be of no use. Mansion Houses. — Only two or three of the proprietors have residences in the parish ; the principal of these is Moy Hall, situ- ated at the north end of Loch Moy. It is a modern house, con- sisting of a middle square with two wings, and is in every respect a commodious residence. It is now inhabited by the Dowager Lady Mackintosh, the proprietor himself living at Daviot. The other residences are plain, though generally comfortable buildings. III. — Population. The earliest census of the parish is that of Dr Webster in 1755, at which time the population amounted to 1693. At the time of the last Statistical Account, the number was 18ia In 1821, however, it had decreased to 1334; and in 1831, when the last Government census was taken, there were only 1098, viz. 427 males, and 471 females. This decrease must be wholly attri- buted to emigration. The proprietors in many places have turn- ed away the whole body of their tenantry, and let their landswout in large sheep farms. This system is a most injurious one to the country ; for in the event of a war, Britain is deprived of a set of the best soldiers in existence. Besides, there is no doubt that land well subdivided returns a better rent than large farms ; and it is reasonable to suppose that three or four tenants could raise more on the same piece of land than one could do. There are no towns or villages in the parish, and hence the peo- pie are thinly scattered over the whole district. The average of births for the last seven years is about 20, of marriages 7, and of MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 107 deaths, about 15. The number of persons under fifteen years of age is supposed to be, at an average, about 350; between fifteen and thirty, about 270 ; betwixt thirty and fifty, about 228; betwixt fifty and seventy, 200 ; and above seventy, 50. The number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of fifty years of age, is about 68, and of unmarried women about 180, including wi* dows. The number of families is 262, in each of which there is, at an average, three children. The number of inhabited houses is 212; and the number of uninhabited or now building is 22. llie number of fiitnilics chiefly employed in agriculture is . . 108 trade» manufactures, or handicrafl, 48 There are two insane persons in the parish, one blind and one deaf and dumb. Character^ Sfc, of the People, — The people are generally of a hardy constitution, and remarkably well-formed, — so that as hand- some a company of soldiers could be got in this district as in any part of Scotland. This is owing to their constitutions not being broken by hard labour when young, — as they then generally oc- cupy their time in herding cattle, or in driving them to the southern markets. The language spoken is the Gaelic, which is generally spoken very correctly, but, from the increasing admixture of Eng- lish, we doubt not that, in a few years, it will be lost altogether. The old customs of the Highlanders are also in a great measure neglected ; few or none wear the kilt and belted plaid ; and the ancient superstitions, with the ceremonies connected with them, are vanishing away. The game chiefly played is the club and ball, which forms the winter amusement, and the collecting of the people for a trial of skill at this game is the only remnant of the old mode of celebrating the Christmas and new year holydays. The belief in ghosts and fairies still exists, but in a very modified degree. At funerals the whole people of the parish are generally collected, if the deceased be a person of respectability ; and those who are invit- ed, alternately by two and two, watch the body in the churchyard, — a very unnecessary trouble. They do not drink much of ardent spirits at funerals, since they are limited by the Justices of Peace to three glasses of whisky, — two in the house before starting and one in the churchyard. On marriage occasions, a bagpipe always precedes the parties on their way to the church, and in the even- ing there is a dinner given gratis, and drinking afterwards, for which each pays a certain sum. There are always music and dancing. Up- on the whole, however, the character of the people is very moral 108 INVERNESS-SHIRE. They seldom drink to excess, and drunken brawls are rare. They are regular in their attendance on divine worship ; and it may safely be said that there is scarcely a family in the whole parish in which family devotion is not maintained morning and evening. With all this, there is not much vital Christianity; a sort of rigid, cold morality is the characteristic of their religion. The people generally live comfortably, considering their station. They have bread, potatoes, milk, butter and cheese, and many of them ani- mal food ; and for the most part they are cheerful and contented, and particularly kind to the poor. If any thing can be particu- larized as unfavourable in their character, it is, that they are pos- sessed of their full share of that sly, low cunning which is so com- mon among Highlanders. The houses are generally built like those of their ancestors; but there are a good many stone and lime houses building now. They retain the dirty habit of having the dunghill before the door, — a habit which it seems impossible to cure. Poaching is little known; and the game laws are very strict, and readily put in force against offenders. The fishing of the streams is not prevented by the proprietors, and, indeed, is scarce- ly worth the prohibiting, — as they are non-resident, and the num- ber of fish killed can have little effect upon the fishing. Killing the fish by torch light, at spawning time, is, however, much practised, and is most injurious to the fishing, as they are then in shallow water, and utterly helpless. Smuggling prevails to a considerable extent, especially in winter ; but it has not been found to be accompanied by those heinous effects which have accompanied it in many places. They merely resort to it as a more profitable method of getting quit of their barley, than selling it in raw grain ; and, in fact, it is not looked upon as a breach of the law. The people have strong prejudices against medical advice ; and often require the sanction of their minister before they take such medicines as are prescribed. There is an Infirmary at Inverness for affording medical relief to the poor ; but this, although often of great benefit, is only used in extreme cases, and even then with great reluctance. The people themselves have little medical knowledge, and whether for a fever or a cold, or consumption, or a pleurisy, whisky is the universal an- tidote. Within the last year or two, they are improving in this respect ; but their prejudices, although shaken, are far from being removed. IV. — Industry. This parish is wholly agricultural, so that the whole males are MOT AND DALARROSSIE. 109 employed in farm labour, except the few artisans employed by the inhabitants. There is nothing in the way of manufacturing, if we except the home-made cloths manufactured by the families. The quantity of this, however, is diminishing, as they find it more pro- fitable to sell their wool, and to purchase cloth. There are weav- ers, 6 ; tailors, 5 ; blacksmiths, 3 ; and carpenters, 7 ; and 1 cooper. These are kept in employment by the country people. There are also a few dry-stone masons for building houses, dikes, &c. Every man is his own shoemaker, or rather brogue-maker ; a shoemaker has, however, lately settled in the country. Some of the people ge- nerally keep a few articles, such as snufi*, tobacco, &c. for retail; but there is no regular shop in the parish. Few of the tenants keep men-servants, since their children generally remain with them un- til they marry, or settle otherwise ; but on large farms there are, between agriculturists and shepherds, above the age of twenty, about 25 male servants, and under that age, 53; female servants, 37. Agriculture. — There is little of the parish, in proportion to its size, under cultivation ; at the utmost, it is but 2820 acres, and a great part of this is merely outshot, or occasionally under tillage. Besides this, the number of acres in waste, including the hill pasture, is 93,180 imperial acres. There is little of this which could be pro- fitably made arable, since sheep pay so well ; and probably not more than 1300 acres are improvable with advantage. A considerable part of the hill pasture is in common, especially where there are two or three tenants in one farm ; and the extent of this commonty may be fairly estimated at 23,000 acres. Wood is generally scarce of late years ; but planting is becoming more general. Mr Macbean of Tomatin has planted about a million and a-half of larch and fir trees, on his property ; and there are con- siderable old'plantationson the estate of Mackintosh near Moy Hall. The total extent under wood is On the estate of Mackintosh, Tomatin, Raismore, Lord Moray, DalmigaTie, Kylachy, - Corrybrough More, Laggan, Corrybrough, 472 1154 . Fir and larch are the timber generally planted; but birch, moun- tain-ash, and aspen, are indigenous to the whole parish. The Planted, Natural. 155 acres. - - - 500 acres. 280 8 8 . - - 20 - . - - - 150 15 - - - . 3 8 . 10 ►re,0 - - - . 400 . 50 6 . - - - 13 no INVERNESS-SHIRE. thinning, &c. does not proceed upon a regular system, so that the management is not particularly good. The thinnings of fir wood generally sell at about 6d. per dozen. Rent of Land. — Arable land does not let high. In fact, there is little grain raised beyond what is necessary for the inhabitants them- selves, and often not even that, as the only profitable stock is black- cattle and sheep. Land in cultivation lets at about L. 1 per acre. The rent of grazing may be taken at about L. 1, 15s. per cow, and Is. 9d. per sheep, allowing two and a-half acres to a cow, and perhaps six acres of hill pasture to a sheep. Rate of Wages. — Country labour is about the same rate as in the neighbouring districts. It averages, summer and winter. Is. 3d. per day to a man without victuals ; and for a farm-servant about L. 4, 10s. in the half year : masons, carpenters, &c get 2s. per day, and other artisans at the same rate. Live Stock. — The breed of sheep and cattle has been much im- proved of late. The black-faced sheep has superseded the small white Highland breed, and the Highland biack cattle are daily im- proving in size and quality. The Highland Society gave some prizes a few years ago, which roused the spirit of emulation, and raised a desire for better cattle. Husbandrj/, — The general system of husbandry is, however, not good. Lime is unknown, except among the more wealthy ; and black oats are the most common grain. After a series of crops, the land is left for a year in ley ; which they manure again, and so on, giving the greater portion of the manure to the ley land, in- stead of laying it on green crop, which only consists of a few po- tatoes. Were lime introduced, the improvement would be astonish- ing ; for where this has been the case, the soil has been so rich as to give in one place fifteen returns of wheat, and in another seven- teen returns of barley. The soil is in most parts alluvial, and where this is not the case it is fine black mould. The nature of the leases is much against improvement. The tenants are almost all tenants at will, or from year to year; and, besides, their lands are so subdivided, being ridge about, as it is called, that improvement is almost out of the question. This state of things is changing now, and nineteen years leases are becoming common ; good farm steadings are in the course of being built, and many comfortable houses erected, espe- cially on the estate of Mackintosh, and also on that of Tomatin. The people themselves are not very spirited ; they are- unwilling to give up old customs, so that the landlords have the trouble of forcing MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 1 1 1 their good things on the tenants. By degrees, however, they are improving, and in a few years we may expect to see as comfortable and substantial a set of tenantry here as we can see any where. Produce. — The amount and value of the raw produce raised in the parish, as far as can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds whether cultivated for feod of man or of domestic animals, . . . . . L. 5640 Potatoes and turnips . . ..... 700 Hay, whether meadow or cultivated, .... 225 Of land pasture for cows, rating it at L.l, I5s. per cow, . . 822 Of land in pasture for sheep, rating it at Is. 9d. per sheep per year, 1333 6 8 Besides this the value of wool is at an average of the last seven years, 13s. per double stone, ...... 700 Annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, . . . 30 Miscellaneous produce* . . . . . . . 25 Total value of raw produce, L. 9475 6 8 V. — Parochial Economy. Markets^ S^c, — The nearest market-town is Inverness, which is dis- tant about twelve miles from Moy. Here the people sell all their com- modities, such as butter, cheese, &c. There are three principal mar- kets held there in the year, the Marymas in August, Martinmas in November, and Candlemas in February. Inverness is also the near- est post-town ; but it is in contemplation to bring the mail by the Highland road, and then letters can be had quite at hand. This road passes through the parish for ten miles, and has lately under- gone a great improvement, both as to the line, which was formerly very steep, and as to the length, it being now shortened by about three miles. The Highland coach to Perth from Inverness passes along it, once every day, and is generally well filled with passengers. Besides this, there are various district roads intersecting the pa- rish, which are made by the converted Statute Labour. The bridges on the district roads are all wooden, and are often swept away by the streams. The stone bridge over the Findhorn was swept away in 1829, and has been replaced by a handsome edifice, the arches of which are of wood supported on stone pillars. This bridge was built at an expense of L. 2600. Ecclesiastical State. — There are two churches in this parish, one at Moy and the other at Dalarrossie, in which divine service is per- formed alternately. The one at Moy is very ill situated, being quite in a corner of the parish, and far from the great body of the po- pulation. That at Dalarrossie is perfectly centrical, and, except when the river is high, easily accessible by the whole parish. Both the churches are old. The church at Moy was built in the year 1765, and was substantially repaired in 1829. It is, however, 112 INVERNESS-SHIRE. cold in winter, there being no less than five doors to it Tlie church of Dalarrossie was built in 1790, and is in every respect as good as the church of Moy, except in not being ceiled ; that is, however, easily remedied. Both churches are situated in a church- yard. That at Dalarrossie is remarkable as not having a stone the size of an egg to the depth of seven feet, although surrounded by stony soil. The tradition is, that it was sifted by the Druids. The churches contain about 450 sitters each. These seats are all free except that the tenant, on taking possession, pays a few shil- lings, — which on vacating is repaid by the incoming tenant The manse is situated at the church of Moy, nine miles from Dalarrossie, and was built in 1765. A wing was added in 1810 ; but it is far frdiBi being comfortable. There are glebes in both pa- rishes, to both of which are attached commonties on the neigh- bouring farms, and, including this, they may each be worth about L. 6 per annum. The stipend amounts to 15 chalders victual, half barley, half meal, besides L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. From 1797, when it was first augmented, until 1812, it was only L. 105 Sterling. In 1812, it was raised to 12 chalders victual ; and in 1832 it was augmented to the present amount of 15 chalders, with barley substituted for bear, which constituted half of the old stipend. Besides the parish churches, there is no other place of worship in the parish ; indeed, there are only one or two Dissenters (Episcopalians) in the parish, and these are regular in their attend- ance on the Established Church. Divine service is very well at- tended in both churches ; but the population being more dense around that of Dalarrossie, the congregation is generally larger. The sacrament is dispensed once each year, and is generally at- tended by all the neighbouring parishes, so that on Sabbath the number is seldom less than 5000. As in most parts of the High- lands, there is a meeting for discussing religious topics on the Fri- day before the communion, in which pious men from all parts of the country take a part The number of communicants is very small ; at an average it is not above 30 ; but including communicants from neighbouring parishes, about 250 generally communicate here. There are various reasons for there being so few in the parish ; but it is chiefly owing to the peculiar doctrines instilled into the minds of the people, chiefly by demagogues, in r^j^ard to the sa- crament of the supper. There are few collections made for religious and charitable pur- poses* The people are poor. There are few gentlemen of wesdUi ; MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 113 and, with the exception of the little they get from the poors' fund, the poor are entirely supported by the benevolence of the parishion- ers. There is, however, generally about L, 12 Sterling per annum, collected chiefly for the General Assembly's India Mission, the Inverness Education Society, and the Northern Infirmary. This may appear small; but when the situation of the people is consider- ed, the sum will appear very considerable. These collections are al- most all made either in the church, or by sending some persons round as collectors. This is generally done by the district schoolmasters, who know the situation and circumstances of most of the people. Educatioru — There is perhaps not a parish in Scotland where education is carried on to a greater extent than here. There is a school in almost every nook, and there is at present one individual out of every 3| under education. This is what can be said of no other parish in Scotland, although we have lately seen the number at school in a good many of them stated at 1 in 4^ or 1 in 5. The schools are as follows : Parochial school, 1 ; aid schools by Societies, 6 ; school for girls by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge, 1. The branches taught are, reading (English and Gaelic,) English grammar, writing and arithmetic, with Latin and book-keep- ing in some instances. The pupils are carefully instructed in the Shorter Catechism in both languages, and religious instruction forms a great part of the course of education. They are also habituated to writing original letters, bills, receipts, &c and this has been found to be of great advantage. The parish schoolmaster has a salary of L. 30, with a good house and garden ; and, inrf uding fees, the yearly income will amount to about L. 40 Sterling. The fees are the same in all the schools, and amount to Is. 6d. per quarter for reading and writing, and 2s. 6d. for the higher branches, as arith- metic, book-keeping, &c. The other schools are upon the aid scheme, and supported partly by the people, and partly by the In- verness Education Society. Some of the best informed country lads are employed during the winter half-year, by the people who have the choice of the schoolmaster; and each gets Is. per quarter for each scholar from the Society. This system has answered uncom- monly well; and, were it introduced more generally in the Highlands, would be productiveof the most beneficial consequences, and the ex- pense of supporting it is a mere trifle. The six schools in the parish were sustained last year at an expense of only L. 12 to the Society, and of little beyond the living of the schoolmaster to the people. Indeed, the masters have little above L. 5 each in the half-year for INVERNESS. H 114 INVERNESS-SHIRE. their services, yet they are satisfied. There is a great emulation be- tween the different teachers, and the great question is, who will have the best school on the day when they are all brought together for examination. This is a day looked forward to as one of the most important in the whole year, by both young and old, and it has always proved a source of great satisfaction to those who at* tend at the examination. The state of education is improving yearly ; and there is one fault peculiar to the Highlands, which has been got quit of, and that is, the long drawl with which the words are pronounced in reading. This is now removed, and the style of reading is generally excellent There is a school for girls sup- ported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, in which the pupils are taught sewing and all sorts of needle-work, and are kept in mind of their reading and writing. The school is gene- rally attended by from 15 to 20 scholars. The salary is L. 5 a-year to the mistress, besides some trifling fees. From the number of schools, there is not one person in the parish between the ages of six and fif- teen, who cannot read or write ; and above that age, the number can- not be above 125 ; the number at the last enumeration being 145. These are, however, all old people, and are dying fast away, so that soon there will not be an uneducated person in the parish. Education is prized very highly. Every one who can, goes to school, and this desire has been so well met by the Inverness Society, that there is not a single additional school wanted,-— except that it would be highly advantageous were one of the schools permanent, t. e. kept up for the whole year, since the aid schools only continue six months, and sometimes not quite so much. The General Assem- bly's Committee has been petitioned to this effect ; and it is hoped that the petition may be attended with success, as the object is highly praiseworthy, and the people and heritors are willing to af- ford every accommodation. This prevalence of education has had a great effect on the intelligence of the people. Every two or three villages join in getting a newspaper, and this has as yet had no bad effect ; and it is to be hoped will have none. As to their morals, they have always been remarkable for sobriety, steadiness, and ho- nesty ; and education has perhaps in general tended to confirm these good qualities. Education takes a long time to produce a com- plete change upon the manners and views of a country ; it lies for a long time on the surface, and it has not yet taken deep enough root here, to produce any visible effect upon the morals of the inhabitants. It, however, promises fair ; and we hope in a few MOY AND DALAROSSIE. 115 years to see education take its full effect, and attended by those beneficial results which it is calculated to produce. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor is great for the population ; and the sum to meet their support is in general very low. The average number of poor is 40 ; these are divided into classes, which receive according to their necessities. They receive at an average, the first class, 12s. per annum ; second do. 10s. do. ; third do. 7s. do. The annual collections amount to about L. 13, 14s. lid. exclusive of donations. These generally amount to about L. 8 per annum ; besides which, the sum of L. 54 has been bequeathed for the use of the poor, viz. L. 10 by the lateLodo- vick Macbean, Esq. of Tomatin, and L. 44 by the late ^neas Mac- bean, Esq. Junior of do. This is all the support the poor have ; and in bad years goes but a very little way. They are, however, gene- rally very unwilling to seek relief from the session, and they only ask it when necessitated to do so for the means of subsistence^ Fairs, — There are seven fairs held in the parish, viz. six cattle trysts, being one during each of the summer and autumn months, and one lamb market, on the third Friday of August These are held at the Inn of Freeburn, which is situated about the middle of the parish, and are generally well attended by dealers, — the time for holding them being regulated so as to suit the dealers, when on their return from the great northern markets. Inns. — There are three inns in the parish ; two of the houses are good, and the third merely a dram-house. They are all on the line of the Highland road, and are in summer well supported, — the num- ber of travellers being then great. These are of no advantage certain- ly to the morals of the people, but they are not productive of much evil ; the country people do not frequent them much, and drunken quarrels are rare, except perhaps at markets. FueL — The common fuel used is peats. These are found in abun- dance all over the parish, and the quality is as good as is to be found any where. They are cut in the end of May, and in the month of July are fit for carrying home and stacking. The expense of cutting is trifling, — about L.2, 10s. for a quantity which would supply a large family during the year; but there is the additional trouble of leading, which for that quantity would require ten days with three horses, bringing them from the distance of two miles. Miscellaneous Observations. In husbandry, there is no doubt the parish is susceptible of immense improvement. The soil is excellent, and all it wants is 1 10 INVERNESS-SHIRE* proper management. Lime is, however, expensive. Besides the carriage from Inverness or Strathspey, there is the expense of tolls ; and until this useful article is quarried within the parish, little can be expected. That it does exist within the parish is 'beyond a doubt; but the property on which it has been found is under trust, and improvement requires the fostering hand of a resident landlord. A spirit of improvement is, however, rising up among the tenantry, and in a few years we hope to see a new system introduced. In fact, this is the only thing that can put a stop to emigration. Our young men, for want of employ- ment, are leaving us to seek their fortunes in America, and the old, whom prejudice has fixed in favour of old measures, are left to proceed in the routine pointed out by their ancestors, centuries ago. The young men can see the benefit of improvement, and can act upon it. They go to work in other parts of the country, and see the improvements carrying on there, and can apply them on their return ; but these are all leaving us for the new world, where, from the great and spirited improvements carrying on, they hope to better their fortunes. Emigration is so far useful as an outlet for our super- abundant population ; but the ease with which it is accomplished raises a spirit of discontent, and a desire of change in our people, which makes them feel restless and uneasy in their present con- dition. The only true method of preventing it is by introducing a spirit of improvement among our tenantry ; and when this is met by the liberality of the landlord, we shall hope to see the popula- tion of our Highland glens comfortable and happy, and not wish- ing to change their native land for what they may suppose to be the comforts of a foreign soil. January 1836. PARISH OF KILMALIE.* PRESBYTERY OF ABERTARPH, SYNOD OF GLENELG. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parishes of Kilmalie and Kilmonivaig were an- ciently united, and called the parish of Lochaber ; but they Were disjoined upwards of two hundred years ago. The name Kilmalie is evidently derived from a burying-ground consecrated to the Vir- gin Mary, — Kile signifying a burying-ground, and Malie being a diminutive for Mary. Extent — The length from north-west to south-east is about 60 miles; the greatest breadth 30 miles. It is bounded on the east and south-east by the parish of Kilmonivaig ; on the south- east by Rannoch, in Perthshire ; on the south and south-west by the parish of Appin ; on the west by the parishes of Morven and Ardnamurchan ; on the north by Glenelg. It lies partly in Inver- ness-shire, and partly in Argyllshire. Mountains. — The mountains are very numerous, but none of them deserves particular notice except Benevis^ which is the highest mountain in Britain. It is situated near Fort William. Its height is 4370 feet above the level of the sea, which lies within three-quarters of a mile from the base of this stupendous mass. The etymo- logy of this mountain has afforded a large field of conjecture ; but the writer is satisfied that the following is the true one ; Beinn in Gaelic signifies mountain ; niamh^ the heavens or clouds ; and Ba- thaisy that part of the human head which is between the forehead and the crown of the head. The compound word written in Gaelic would be Beinn-niarnh'-bhathais. It is naturally enough contracted to BenSvisj — the mountain with its summit in the clouds, or, as in Pope's Homer, " cloud kissing hilU* The view from the top of Benevis is very extensive ; but it is a Herculean labour to reach its top, and the attempt should not be made but by able bodied and healthy persons, with a proper guide. There are, in this parish, about sixty-seven miles of sea coast, * Drawn up by the late incumbenti the Rev. Donald M'Gillivray. 1 18 INVERNESS-SHIRE. along which there are several spots of sandy arable land ; but not of any great extent Wherever the mountains are high, the val- leys are narrow and the acclivity very steep. Where the mountains are not very high, the acclivity is more gentle, and the arable land extends farther from the shore ; one-third at least of the very high hills are quite barren, and appear white at a distance. This is par- ticularly the case with respect to Benevis and the range of moun- tains to the east and west of it. Benevis differs from them all, not only by its height, but also by its round massy top. The deep clefts on the north-east side of Benevis are never without snow. For two seasons when ice failed, the snow gathered and condensed into ice in these clefts, was of great service to the salmon-curers. The country peasants with their small hardy horses carried it down in panniers on horseback. Meteorology. — The atmosphere in general is moist, but not cold. The high mountains attract the clouds, which pour down torrents of rain in our valleys at all seasons ; hence the difficulty of rais* ing a corn crop in this climate. It requires the utmost skill and activity to secure crops in this country, particularly in late harvests. The wind blows in general from south €nd south-west. When it comes round to the west and north, it is an indication of the approach of fair weather ; with the south wind we have rain in general. In some seasons, there is a continuation of cold easterly wind for six or seven weeks, the effects of which are severely felt. The climate^ upon the whole, is healthy. Rheumatism is a prevailing disease* There are persons at present in this parish bordering on a hundred years old. Hydrography. — There are three arms of the sea in this parish. The first and farthest south is Lochleven, which branches out from Linne Loch ten miles below Fort William, and penetrates between the lofty mountains of Glenco and Lochaber for ten or twelve miles towards Rannoch. It has two currents, one at Balachulish Ferry, the other about three miles farther up at Caolus-na'Con. Linne Loch terminates at Fort William ; and then Locheil commences, being a continuation of Linne Loch, bending to the north-west at Fort William, and extending ten miles towards Arisaig and Skye. It has a current at Annat. Linne Loch has a strong current at Corran Ardgour Ferry. There is an excellent bay at Corran Ardgour, and another at Camus-na-gaul, near the south entrance of the Caledonian Canal, directly opposite to Fort William. Lakes and Rivers. — Locharkaig, which is sixteen miles long, and RILMALIE. 119 one broad, is the only fresh water lake of any consequence in this parish. Loch Lochy is chiefly in the parish of Kilmonivaig ; but about nine miles of its coast are in the parish of Kilmalie. It is on the line of the Caledonian Canal. The distance between it and Locharkaig is about a mile and a-half. The top of Achnacarry House, the seat of Locheil, is seen from Loch Lochy. There is a most beautiful valley between the two lakes, called in Gaelic cl mili dorchj or dark mile, being about a Scotch mile in length. It re- sembles the Trosachs between Loch Catherine and Loch Auchray in Perthshire, but far surpasses the Trosachs in extent and in the beauty of the scenery. The dark mile commences at the farm- house of Clunes, and ends at Locharkaig. There is an excellent road through this truly picturesque valley. The river Lochy comes out of Loch Lochy, by a new channel cut out for it about 600 yards to the south of the line of the Caledonian Canal. It falls into the river Spean at Mucomre Bridge, and for a quarter of a mile it is called the Spean, but resumes its own name the Lochy, when it and the Spean fall into the old channel at Gearlochy. It runs eight miles, separating the parishes of Kilmalie and Kilmonivaig, and then falls into the sea at Fort William, where the water of Nevis also meets it. There is a ferry on this river about two miles from Fort William, having a good quay on either side, which is of very great use ; but since the roads are so good on both sides, and the intercourse increasing, the want of a substantial stone bridge is severely felt by travellers and cattle-dealers. It is to be hoped that the day is not dists^nt when this want will be supplied. Steam-boat travellers would find great benefit from a bridge at Lochy Ferry, on account of the intercourse between Banvie Locks and Fort William. • Geology, — ^The predominating rocks in this parish are gneiss and mica slate ; and subordinate to these are beds of qitartz rock, hornblende rock, &c. These various primitive rocks are traversed by rocks of granite, syenite, and porphyry. Rocks considered as belonging to the transition class also occur. The great Benevis is worthy the particular attention of the geologist, and, even in fine weather, will afford him many days of delightful and instructive employment The lower part of the mountain is composed of mica slate and gneiss, higher up we meet with syenite, at a greater elevation granite ; the upper parts are composed of different va- rieties of porphyry. Many years ago Professor Jameson read an account of the geology of the mountain to the Wemerian Society ; 120 INVERNESS-SHIRE. afterwards, an eloquent writer, the present Dr Macknight of Edin- burgh, wrote a description of its scenery and geology, which was published in the Memoirs of the Wernerian Natural History So- ciety. Some years afterwards, Dr MaccuUoch, who set at nought every thing done by his predecessors, attempted, but unsuccess* fully, to make geologists believe that the mountain was unknown geologically till he set foot on it. Several foreign geologists also have published remarks on this, the highest mountain in Great Britain. Zoology, — Much attention is paid to the management of sheep farms in this parish, as well as in the neighbouring Highland pa- rishes. Wedders from extensive farms here, are considered in the south country markets, second only to wedders reared on the farm of Audi in Glenorchy, on the Marquis of Breadalbane's property. Goats are scarcely known now in this parish. They are very de- structive to oak wood. Salmon, herrings, red-cod, lythe, skate, flounders, whitings are found in the salt water lakes. Formerly, salmon were found in Locharkaig ; but a cascade at Mucomre Bridge has cut up the com- munication between the sea and Locharkaig, so that no salmon is now to be found where they abounded of old. This is one disad- vantage which has followed the making of the Caledonian Canal. Woods and Plantations. — There was a very extensive and ex- cellent wood on Mr Cameron of Lochiel's property ; but much of it was cut down about twenty years ago. There is still remaining, on the south side of Locharkaig, a considerable quantity of excel- lent fir, and of great size. On Lochiel and Ardgour's properties there is a good deal of oak wood, and kept in the best order, par- ticularly by Colonel McLean of Ardgour, who is enthusiastically fond of wood. He has several spots planted with fir, well enclos- ed, which no doubt will be profitable hereafter. In the meantime, it is a great ornament to the country. IL — Civil History. This parish was a nursery for the army, particularly in the late war.* There is a good deal of tradition relative to events which • There is an obelisk erected in this parish. It han the following inscription, which is given at length, as it indicates the character and achievements of an eminent individual connected with this parish : — " Sacred to the memory of Colonel John Cameroni eldest son of Sir Ewcn Cameron of Fassfern, Haronct, whose mortal remains transported from the field of glory, where he died, rest here witli those of bis fore- fathers. During twenty years of active military service, with a spirit which knew no fear, and shunned no danger, he accompanied or led, in marches, sieges, and battles, the gallant 92d Regiment of Scottish Highlanders, always to honour, almost always to vie- 4 KILMALIE. 121 took place in this parish during the rebellion of 1745. Lochiel hav- ing joined Prince Charles, Clan Cameron followed their chief, a mea- sure of which they had sufficient cause to repent The royal army, after the Prince was finally defeated at CuUoden, pitched their camp at Fort Augustus, and sent plundering parties to Lochaber, who drove away all the cattle in the country, burnt the houses, and drove the miserable inhabitants, old and young, without food or clothing, to the hills. They killed several persons in cold blood. About 400 of the royal army, passing up Locharkaig side, found a young man of the name of Cameron, having a gun in his possession. Without civil or military trial, the unfortunate youth was posted up and shot, by an order from Grant of Knoc-ceanach, who com- manded a party of the Ross-shire militia. Dugal Roy Cameron, the incensed father of the slain youth, watched the party as they were returning with their plunder. Grant of Knoc-ceanach, whe- ther designedly or not, gave his horse to Major Munro of Culcairn ; and Dugal, mistaking his man, shot the amiable major. Dugal es- caped, after throwing away the discharged musket. He got again before the party, and took his stand in a narrow pass, with the view of doing more execution ; but the party were so long detained, that they escaped without meeting their incensed enemy again ; — but he taught them not to come back on a similar expedition. There was no more burning or plundering in Lochaber, though a party of the royal army were quartered for years at the head of Locharkaig. Dugal Roy Cameron was never discovered. He served afterwards as a private in the royal army. Many of his connections are still in this country.* Land^oumers. — The land-owners in this parish are, Mr Came- ron of Lochiel; Colonel M*Lean of Ardgour; Sir Duncan Came- ron of Fassfern, Bart. ; Mr Patrick Cameron of Glenevis ; and Mr John Cameron of Berbice. Parochial Registers, — The parish register commences in 1772, tory ; and at length in the 42d year of his age, upon the memorable 16th day of June A. D. 1815| was slain in the command of that corps, while actively contributing to achieve the decisive victory of Waterloo, which gave peace to Europe. Thus closing his military career with the long and eventful struggle in which his services had been so often distinguished, hudtcd^ lamented by that unrivalled General to whose long train of success he had so often contributed ; by his country, from which he had repeatedly received marks of the highest consideration ; and by his Sovereign, who graced his sur- viving family with those marks of honour which could not follow to this place, him whose merit they were designed to commemorate. Reader, call not his fate untime- ly, who, thus honoured and lamented, closed a life of fame by a death of glory.** * Samuel Cameron, who, by his Lochaber axe, killed tlic pious and brave Colonel Gardiner at Prestonpans, was a native of this parish. His grandson is one of the elders of this parish at present. He used to say, that he and his comrade acted in self-defence, for that the Colonel galloped up to them and attacked them. 122 INVERNESS-SHIRE. but has been very irregularly kept, — ^partly owing to the scattered state of the parish, and partly owing to the number of Episcopar- lians and Roman Catholics in the parish, who do not record the names of their children in the parish register. Modem Buildings. — The only modern building of consequence in this parish is Lochiel's mansion-house at Achnacarry, the an- cient family seat The house is a large, handsome, and substan- tial building, but it is not yet finished. Colonel McLean of Ard- gour's house was burnt some years ago, and has been since rebuilt and enlarged. It is situate near Corran Ferry, and surrounded with planting and shrubbery laid out with great taste. III. — Population. In 1755, the population was . 8093 1792, . . 4225 1801, . 4600 1811, . . 5000 1821, . . 5527 1831, . . 4210 The people employed on the Caledonian Canal are included in the census of 1811 and 1821 ; but if the census of 1831 had been correctly taken, the population would certainly have been found to be more than 4210, notwithstanding of the number that left the country when the Canal was finished. In 1831, there was in the Inverness part of the parish, . 2745 souls, in Argyleshire, .... 1465 fiunilies in Inyerness-shire, . . . 457 in Argyleshire, . . . 230 males in Inverness-shire, 1340, females in ditto, 1405. males in Argyleshire, 725, females in ditto, 740. About 1200 reside in the village of Fort William, which is situat- ed in Inverness-shire. The yearly average of births cannot be as- certained on account of the number of Episcopalians and Roman Catholics in the parish. There is no register of burials kept The yearly average of marriages for seven years may be about 30. The number of children in each family at an average is 3^. There are 610 inhabited houses. LangtLogej Sfc. — The prevailing language is the Gaelic, but the English is gaining ground. The people are very desirous to ac- quire the English language. When one person wishes evil to an- other, it is not uncommon to hear a Highlander say, ^^ Don beurla orta^^ I. e. may you never speak properly in English. The inter- course with the south country by steam-boats, and the number of schools in particular, have tended to spread the English language among the inhabitants ; but they prefer to receive religious in- RILMALIE. 123 struction in Gaelic ; indeed, many of them who can speak in com- mon conversation in English cannot follow an English discourse. The rising generation imitate their equals in the south country in their dress. Tartan among men, and cotton cloth among women, are the common costume. The common diet of the peasants is potatoes, with herrings or milk. Such as are in better circumstances may have a little meal and mutton ; but potatoes is their principal food for three-fourths of the year. Smuggling and poaching are still carried on secretly, but not to any great extent. When the proprietors are absent from the coun- try for any length of time, idle persons use liberty with the game on their property. IV. — Industry. There is not much arable land in this parish, so that the people are employed chiefly as fishers or shepherds ; neither is there any cotton or woollen manufactory. There is one bank agent at Fort William ; and about twenty merchants between Fort William and Corpach. There are three medical gentlemen at Fort William, four lawyers, and a Sheriff-substitute. There is a sufficient number of carpenters, masons, shoemakers, and tailors, between Fort Wil- liam and Corpach, to supply the wants of the parish and adjacent country. Agriculture. — There is not one acre out of 300 cultivated or capable of cultivation in this parish. Considerable exertions have been made by some of the proprietors to drain and improve por- tions of land near their own residence ; and wherever the attempt has been made, the returns have fully repaid the expenses. Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land is about L. I, lOs. per acre ; the average rent for grazing a cow is L. 2 per annum ; the rate per ewe is from 2s. to ds. per annum. Quarries. — There is a slate quarry on Lochiel's property at north Balachulish ; but it has not been much wrought hitherto. There is also a stone quarry at Fassfern, which was of great advan- tage at the time of making the Caledonian Canal, and lately in building a quay at Fort William. Fisheries. — Salmon and herring are the principal fisheries in this parish. The river Lochy is famed for the excellency of its salmon. There are stake-nets in several places along the coast, and extra- ordinary exertions are making to improve the salmon-fishing. Time will tell how the present speculation will pay the adventurers, but 124 INVERNESS-SHlRE. no expense is spared to insure success. The herring-fishing is the great source of support to the country people; but when it fails, they are destitute, particularly in the village of Fort- William. V. — Parochial Economy. Fort William is a market-town ; but the market-day is scarcely distinguished from another day, so little business is doing. The village of Corpach, at the south end of the Caledonian Canal, is the only other village in the parish. There are no houses of any value in Corpach, and there is no appearance at present of any improvement. Means of Communication. — There is a regular communication with Inverness and Glasgow by steam in summer twice a-week, and in winter once a-week, besides a daily post from the south and from Inverness ; also three times a week to and from Arisaig. There is a penny post-oflSce established lately at Corpach. Caledonian Canal, — The south end of this stupendous work be- gins at Corpach in this parish, and runs eight miles through it along the river Lochy to Loch Lochy. It was a work long in con- templation before it was begun. It occupied about twenty years from its commencement to its completion, and it cost nearly a million of money to the nation. No one can yet say how useful it may prove ; but already it has attracted thousands of travellers, British and foreign. The number is increasing every year ; and the steam navigation is improving and increasing in proportion, to meet the wishes of travellers and traders. All admire the magnificent scene- ry along its banks for sixty miles, but particularly at the south en- trance, from whence the traveller has a full view of Benevis. The only disappointment to which the traveller can be exposed is, that the monarch mountain may be in a mournful mood, — half co- vered with mist. To escape this disappointment, travellers should visit the scenery in the months of June, July, and August, when they have every chance of seeing the mountain free of clouds and mist, but never free of snow. Every encouragement should be given by the Honourable Com- missioners to the navigation of the Caledonian Canal. At present, the Greenock merchants complain of the high dues, notwithstand- ing that these dues have been reduced one-half from what they were at first. The consequence is, that vessels which would other- wise pass through the canal, are sent round the north coast The steam-boats, in particular, ought to be encouraged ; and were a tty boat allowed to pass free^ in order to expedite the navigation on KILMALIE. 125 the canal) there is reason to expect that more dues would be drawn. The same number of men are employed waiting the locks as if there were vessels passing every hour of the day ; since these men are in Government pay, and since overseers, &c. are also in Govern- ment pay, every facility and encouragement should be given to steam-boats and other vessels to pass through the canal. The only harbour of consequence in this parish is at Fort Wil- liam. A quay has been recently built there, partly by the Fishery Commissioners and partly by private subscription. It is expected to be of some benefit to the place, if indeed any thing can benefit a place without any public or private employment for a poor and numerous population. There is a very safe anchorage at Camus- nagaul, between Corpach and Fort William. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is at Ck)rpach, at the south entrance of the Caledonian Canal, which is the most cen- trical spot in the whole parish. There is a population of from 500 to 600 souls within three miles of the church. It is distant about thirty-six miles from the extremity of the parish, and was built in 1783 for L. 440. It will accommodate about 900 or 1000 sit- ters. All the seats are free, which is an immense advantage to a poor population. It removes a common excuse for absence from church. The manse and its appendages of garden and office- houses were built about seventeen years ago, and cost the heritors triple of what the church cost them in 1783. The glebe is large, partly arable and partly pasture, but not valuable, on account of its unprotected and fenceless state, in the immediate neighbourhood of many poor cottagers. The stipend is not fixed, as there is only an interim decreet The living, upon the whole, is considered re- spectable. There is a missionary at Fort William; and a church that can ac-* commodate 300. The Society in Scotland for Propagating Christ- ian knowledge allow L. 50 per annum to the missionary ; and the Duke of Gordon, while proprietor of Fort William and neighbour- ing land, allowed L. 10 per annum for house rent. The place is at present vacant. « There are two Government churches in this parish, one on each side of Linne Loch near Corran Ferry : one minister preaching every alternate Sabbath in each supplies both. There is a popu- lation of upwards of 11 00 souls connected with his charge ; and the place was very destitute before the Government church was erect- ed. There was a missionary for some time officiating between 126 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Locharkaig in this parish, and Brae Roy, in the parish of Kilmo- nivaig; but he was obliged to resign on account of bad health. He had not a place of residence within the bounds of his charge. The preaching stations (four in number) assigned to him were so dis- tant from one another, and some of them so diflScult of access, as to make his labours difficult for himself, and of less value to the people. This mission is at present vacant There is a popula- tion of 220 souls in the district of Locharkaig. The nearest part of this district is eleven miles, and the remotest part thirty-six miles from the parish church. There is an Episcopalian and a Roman Catholic chapel at Fort William, each having an officiating ecclesiastic The number of Episcopalians in the whole parish is about 400, and of Roman Catholics about 200. The Established Churches at Kilmalie and at Fort William are so crowded every Sabbath day, that, from the aspect of the congregation, a stranger would conclude there could be no other sect in the parish, but that the whole body of the people belonged to the Established Church. The average number of communicants in the Established Church is about 800. There is a Bible Society at Fort William, and a Religious As- sociation at Kilmalie. The probable average amount of the con- tribution yearly for both may be about L. 20 or L. 24. Education. — There are eleven schools in the whole parish: one, a parochial school, at Fort William, — the salary the maxi- mum ; six schools supported by different societies, of which three are supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge ; four schools supported by private individuals. The branches generally taught in the parochial school and in that supported by the Committee of the General Assembly at Corpach, are English reading, writing, arithmetic, Latin, Greek, book-keeping, geogra- phy. The fees of the parochial school may amount to about L. 50 per annum ; but the teacher has to pay an assistant The Society schoolmaster's income may be from L. 16 to L. 25 per annum, in- cluding school-fees, which are not well paid in general. The Gaelic schools have conferred no small benefit on this parish. They have been instrumental in introducing the word of God into families where it was not before ; and the teachers in general being per- sons of a serious cast of mind, have been a check upon the prevail- ing sins of drunkenness, swearing, and Sabbath profanation. KILMALIE. 127 Libraries. — There are two libraries at Fort William, one lite- rary, the other religious ; but no great demand for books from ei- ther of them. There is a good selection of books in each of them, but the frequent changes and vacancies in the mission of Fort William is against the taste for reading religious books ; and the numerous spirit-shops in that village, and in other parts of the pa- rish, prove a great snare to those who ought to employ their time in reading. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor may be about 1 60, chiefly supported by collections at the church door, with occasional donations from heritors, and alms received by their going from house to house through the parish. The most needy re- ceive Is. per week; but the average given to ordinary paupers may be from 5s. to 7s. in the year. The people are very kind to such as are in distress. They send potatoes, milk, peats, &c. to their houses. Some are very anxious to get upon the poors' list ; but others abstain from applying for aid as long as possible. Prison. — There is no prison in this parish. The garrison of Fort William is used as a place of temporary confinement till the accused be liberated or sent to Inverness or to Inverary jaiL Fairs. — There bxb two annual fairs at Fort William, one about the Idth of June, the other about the ISth of November, — both well attended, and considerable business transacted at each. Inns. — There are three inns in the parish ; and dram-houses without number, — some of them licensed to sell spirits, some selling without license. May 1835. PARISH OF GLENELG. PRESBYTERY OF LOCHCARRON, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. ALEXANDER BEITH, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Glenelg is the ancient and modern name, derived from or compounded of Gleann and seilg^ or gleann and elid; in the for- mer case signifying the valley of hunting^ in the latter the valley of the roey — both equally appropriate, whether meant to be descriptive of the regular and extensive sweep of the mountains, or of the rich verdure and covert by which they are distinguished. Extent^ Boundaries. — The parish is about 20 miles in length, and the same nearly in breadth, bounded on the N. E.and E. by the parish of Glensheal, county of Ross; on the S. E. and S. by Glen- garry and Lochaber ; on the S. W. by lake ^orar, separating it from Ardnamurchan ; and on the W. and N. W. by the sound of Sleat, separating it from the Isle of Skye. The coast runs nearly from N. to S. and, excepting in the bay of Glenelg, and within the lochs or arms of the sea hereafter to be mentioned, where good anchoring ground is to be met with, is generally high and rocky. Climate^ Sfc. — In common with other parts of the north-west coast of Scotland, Glenelg is remarkable for the quantity of rain which falls at all seasons of the year. The prevailing winds are the west and south-west, which convey the clouds from the Atlantic heavily laden with treasures, which are most plentifully dispensed by them as they travel along and come in contact with the summits of our lofty mountains. Our severest gales are from those quarters, and are in winter, especially at night, accompanied by frequent peals of terrific thunder. North-east, east and south-east winds bring dry weather, particularly the two latter ; but they are of rare oc- currence. Our storms usually commence with a strong, gusty, but dry, gale from the south-east, which after a time almost instantan- eously veers to the south-west ; from which quarter it rages with fury, accompanied with torrents of incessant rain. The usual prog- nostic of those storms is the low and sullen flight of the sea birds GLENELG. 129 through the valleys into the interior of the country, as if they re- treated from the advance of a resistless enemy. Notwithstanding the excessive moisture of the climate the inhabitants of the country are singularly healthy. Hydrography. — The parish is intersected by two arms of the sea, I^ch Hourn and Lochnevis, and is thus divided into three districts, Glenelg Proper, Knodyart, and North Morar. Loch Hourn is navi- gable for twenty miles, being about five broad at the entrance, which breadth it retains for about one-half its extent, when, for the remainder, it contracts into less than half this. Lochnevis also extends about twenty miles, being in point of breadth much of the same description as the former. Both are remarkable for the romantic beauty of the scenery of their coasts, especially Loch- Hourn. The mountains rise from their margin, and are covered with wood. As in all parts of the Highlands, so here many fresh water lakes are to be met with, supplied with trout ; but nothing in the na- tural history of any of them requires particular notice. The same remark applies to the rivers which, along the coast, empty them- selves into the friths. a Soili Sfc, — The soil in Glenelg Proper is loamy^and fertile, not- withstanding the quantity of rain which falls. By this, however, the average weight of the grain is necessarily much deteriorated ; yet it is no unusual thing for the conunon bear or big to weigh fifty pounds imperial bushel, and Flemish oats forty-eight pounds. In the district of Knodyart the soil is much lighter, but good crops are raised, with the advantage of a harvest always two weeks earlier than in Glenelg. PropttP* Mineralogy. — Beds of Htnestone are met with in various parts of the parish, but it is burned neither for building nor for agricul- tural purposes. This may be accounted for by the rock being of a very hard description, and by^the want of suitable fuel. Peat would hardly suffice for the purpose, and the expense of coals, it is supposed, would be greater than the benefit derived from the use of lime could compensate. An excellent substitute is found in the shells ; it abounds on the coast, and is obtained at the expense of the conveyance. Plumbago also is to be met with in considerable quantity. The rocks of this parish, as Professor Jameson informs us, are chiefly gneiss, with subordinate mica slate, quartz rock, horn« blende rock, granite, syenite, and serpentine. The serpentine af- INVERNESS. I 130 INVERNESS-SHIRE. fords veins of asbestus and also of amianthus ; actynolite, zoisite, and tremolite occur in other rocks. Fishings. — The sea along the coast, and the various lochs branch- ing off from it, have long been famed for the number and quality of herrings frequenting them ; but, of late years, the Gshing has failed, as on all the west coast of Scotland, to the impoverishment of a large population who subsisted by it. Other fish are caught to the extent used by those employed in taking them, and the sup- ply required by the country, — the prevalent kinds being ling and cod ; but few, if any, are exported. IVood, — A considerable quantity of natural oak, ash, birch, alder, (kc. grows in the glens and on the sides of the mountains, which overhang the lochs by which the parish is intersected. One or two instances, on a small scale, of plantations made at a remote period, also show that hard woods generally, but the ash and plane particularly, are the trees most congenial to the soil and climate. About twenty years ago, considerable tracts of land were laid un- der larch, pine, and spruce, intermingled with oak and ash, by Mr Bruce, then proprietor of Glenelg Proper, all which have grown well. As these plantations have been laid out with admirable taste, they add in a great degree to the beauty of scenery, otherwise of a high order. Mr Bruce, at the same time, expended a considerable sum of money in the formation of an orchard near the opening of the larger glen of the district, which he sheltered from the prevail- ing winds by quick growing wood, and supplied with every descrip- tion of fruit tree, and of rare and valuable plant : but, being secured only by a temporary dry stone dike, and common thorn hedged and he himself ceasing soon after to reside in the country, it became a prey to depredators of various kinds, and consequently suffered loss. Still, however, the large fruit trees, especially the pear and plum, yield good crops ; and the orchard, even thus wasted, with its mag- nificent beech hedge running throughout its whole length — for one- half the way being double, so as to form a sheltered and shaded walk of considerable extent— and with its parallel lines of graceful silver firs closely planted, running across its whole breadth, con- stitutes a striking object in the scenery of this, one of the first of Highland glens. II. — Civil History. Land-owners.— The landowners of the parish are three in num- ber : The Right Honourable Baron Glenelg of Glenelg, present Secretary of State for the Colonies, proprietor of Glenelg Proper GLENELG. 131 bounded on tlie north by Ross-shire, on the south by Loch Hourn ; iEneas Ranaldson Macdonell, Esq. of Clanranald and Glengar- ry, proprietor of Knodyart, bounded on the north by Loch- Hourn, on the south by Lochnevis ; and T. A. Fraser, Esq. of Lovat, pro- prietor of North Morar, bounded on the north by Lochnevis, and on the south by Lake Morar. Eminent Men. — Lord Glenelg, late Mr Charles Grant, eminent no less for his literary taste than for his talents and success as a statesman, both being graced and sanctified by his unostentatious and unfeigned piety, has a place in the history of his country, as one of those great men who, in the capacity of rulers, have been raised up in the time of her need. The early period in his pub- lic life, at which he was called to take a share in the councils of the nation, — the anxiety of each successive government to secure the benefit of his valuable services, — shews the estimation in which he has been uniformly held by those best able to judge of his character ; and the master-hand with which he has conducted each department of the state entrusted to his care, with his consequent progressive advancement in public confidence, proves that he has not been overrated. His Lordship's Parliamentary career has been from the beginning connected with Inverness-shire, first, as the Re- presentative of that district of burghs of which Inverness is the principal, and subsequently, of the county, — on the death of his father, whom he succeeded, — until his elevation to the Peerage. The services he has rendered his country are well known. For three years, he held the Secretaryship of Ireland, which country he governed with great prudence and popularity. In the course of this period he obtained for Ireland, the benefit of measures which it required no ordinary sagacity to devise, boldness to advociite, and labour to carry into effect. As President of the Board of Trade, at a subsequent period, it fell to him to introduce that measure for the protection of the corn interests (the most intricate of sub- jects) which still forms the law of the kingdom, on a point so im- portant, — none better to supersede it having hitherto been devis- ed. As head of another department, it also fell to him to pre- pare and bring forward the new law for our East India dominions, — an act affecting so large a portion of the human race, and which, in the face of opposing interests and able adversaries, was passed, without any change in its material parts, with general approbation. And in his new and extended sphere, similar important and be- neficial results may well be anticipated, from the exercise of hi^ 132 INVERNESS-SHIRE. high and energetic talents, the influence of which will not ultimate- ly prove the less availing that, from natural taste, the notoriety of public exhibition seems to be avoided rather than courted by him. Antiquities. — Under this head the parish can boast of the most entire specimens, in the southern parts of the Highlands, of the ancient Beorgs, Burghs^ or Duties^ usually called Pictish Towers., They are two in number, and situated near each other in Glenbeg, the smaller of the two valleys to which the name Glenelg belongs in common. The foundation and ruins of a third are also seen in this, and part of the materials of what must have been two more, in the larger, valley or Glenmore. Affording too convenient a supply of useful stones for modern architecture, scarcely one-half of the original building, even of the most entire, remains ; whilst of the others little else is to be found than that portion of the ma- terials which it would have been useless to remove. They are all situated at no great distance from the sea, and, it has been alleg- ed, decidedly within the ancient Scandinavian boundary. The height of those of which a portion remains is about 30 feet ; but they probably were several feet higher. The diameter within walb is also about 30 feet, but above 50 outside, or over walls. Within, the building is perpendicular, but the external wall is curved, bul- ging out at top after the form, but not to the extent, of the Ed- dyston Light-house. This, with their circular shape, and their hav- ing no opening on the outside wall, (the building, though without mortar of any kind, being, at the same time, so closely jointed that no footing could have been had in any attempt at scaling,) shows that the " towers" certainly were places of refuge and defence. The walls are double, and exceed 10 feet in thickness. Between or within the walls are tiers of galleries, respectively about 6 feet high and 2^ wide. One of the dunes which we describe has four such tiers, of the dimensions stated, one over the other. The se- cond has only two whose dimensions approach this, the high- er galleries contracting almost to a single wall. The access to the galleries was by openings, left for the purpose, inside the dune, about 3 feet wide, and 5 high,— the communication of each tier with the other being by an aperture in the floor above, or rather by a gap in the large flags which, stretching across both walls, bind the building firmly together, and form the floor of each successive gallery. The external entrance to these places of re- fuge and defence was by a very low door, close to the ground, to pass through which it is necessary to creep on the hands and knees. 3 GLENELO. 133 As this entrance still remains, in the case of one of the dunes, it is evident, from the construction, that a single stone dropped, after the manner of a portcullis^ from the opening between the double walls, must have formed a barrier which no intruder could force. In some instances of similar erections, the external entrance is said to have been subterraneous ; and it is true that a passage of this kind from one of the Glenelg towers was shut up a few years ago, by the farmers in the neighbourhood, the loss which they sustain- ed by sheep and cattle falling into it having led to this. The passage never was explored by any of the existing generation ; but the tradition is, that it communicated both with the neighbouring river and the second tower. It is probable that the dwelling-houses of the inhabitants, in the troublous times which gave origin to the structures which we have attempted to describe, were erected close by the burghs or duncs^ aud that when the lighting of the beacons on the neighbouring i/ountains, gave intimation of the approach of an enemy, or his de- /ient on the coast, they forsook their habitations, conveyed their / noveable property, with provisions, within the walls of the fortress, / if not always kept there, and, having previously driven their cattle off / from the coast, or dispersed them over the mountains, awaited the / event or prepared for defence. The protection afforded by such strongholds, usually built upon eminences, must have been consi- derable. The galleries described above provided perfect shelter for women and children, from arrows and other missiles, which might be thrown into the fort ; for they do not seem to have been roofed over. The form of the dune precluded the prospect of capture by scaling : whilst from the summit, where, from the projecting stones which remain, it is evident there must have been some description of platform, the besieged could hurl destruction on the enemy who, either by this means or the battering-ram, sought their ruin. From the construction of the castles, and the nature of the assaults made by the predatory adventurers, for defence against whom they were intended, it must have seldom occurred that they were taken by an enemy, unless by surprise. The generally received opi- nion of their origin is, that they were not the workmanship of any purely Celtic tribe, there being many circumstances to render it probable that they were erected by the Danes or Norwegians. It is necessary only to state further, that the stones, large and small, with which those of Glenelg are built, were conveyed a distance of more than a mile, from a neighbouring mountain, of which the 134 INVERNESS-SHIRE. proof is, — the traces of the transportation afforded by those drop- ped by the way. The tradition accounting for the erection of the dunes is sufficient- ly wild. According to this, they were built by two giants, of sta- ture and strength so immense, that one placing himself at a con- venient distance, between the mountain from which the materials were quarried, and the site on which the dunes are reared, handed the stones to his companion, who without further trouble, construct- ed the fabrics in all the magnitude in which, it is said, they once appeared. As evidence and illustration of the powers of this Ti- tanic race, a huge rock, of at least fifty tons, is shown as a missile which the one brother hurled at the other, on an occasion when detected by him, in the act of carrying off from his castle the fire which he had left on the hearth on going forth to the chase. The straits of Kyle Rhea and Kyle Akin^ separating Skye at two points from the mainland, are said to bear their names, because their usual mode of passage was by leaping over them. In confirmation of the whole history, their place of sepulture, for they perished in war at last, was long shown and is still distinguished by the name of " Imear nam Fear Mora." That we may be accurate in our history, it may be proper to add, that one account bears, that Bhea perished by drowning, according to the following distich : — I^dupi gad) Fear air ceann a shieagh, Is dhuirich Mac Rhea 'sa chaol. — The " barrow" or tumulus distinguished by the foregoing name is situated in a little plain near Kyle Rhea. Superstition had long attached sacredness to the spot, and predicted wrath from above on the intruder who, with unhallowed hands, should force it to reveal its secret. Several years ago, however, a party of gentlemen con- nected with the country resolved to brave the danger; and proceed- ed, but with selection of a cloudless day, to put tradition to the test. For a time all went well ; but their task was only half completed and the wished-for discovery but half made, when the sky became sud- denly overcast, and a thunder storm of unusual character compelled them to desist, and to restore matters, so far as might be, to their previous condition. They had, however, in their search come upon two sarcophagi, formed of large flags, containing the remains of human skeletons, imbedded in the finest sand, of most extraordinary size. The bones on being exposed to the air, soon crumbled into dust; but an idea of their dimensions is well given by an eye-witness, who states, that when the under jaw-bone of one of the skeletons was OLENELG. 135 applied around the lower part of the face of a very large and fat man present, it could so be held without touching him; being at the extreme points nearly twelve inches apart. The circumstances at- tending the exhumation long secured to " Imear nam Fear Mora" an immunity denied to the adjacent locality. But the lapse of time brought it at last into the occupation of those, who were strangers to the impression produced by such a cause. An attempt was made to subdue the stubborn soil. Warnings of most portentous cast were given, but the sturdy agriculturist, nothing daunted, pursued his task, and the traces of the peaceful plough have now rendered it difficult to point out the site of the " gigantic heroes' resting- place." Mansion^ House. — The only mansion-house in the parish, is that of Inverie, on Glengarry's Knodyart property, where he now re- sides. It is beautifully situated on the banks of Lochnevis, and was built by the late Colonel Macdonell, father of the present proprie- tor, who has been described as the last of that class of Highland Chiefs, of whom he formed so perfect a specimen in all his feelings and habits. The house is remarkable, inasmuch as the two prin- cipal rooms are finished with strong wattle work from the floor to the roof-tree, for there is no cieling. The couples which support the fabric are of native fir, of great strength and size, also rising from the ground and meeting in massive arches over-head. The floor is of clay and hard sand, the whole finishing being truly Cel- tic, and in excellent keeping with the tartans which grace its hos- pitable and accomplished inmates. In Knodyart and Glenelg Proper, there are several large and comfortable houses, occupied by extensive sheep-farmers. Of those the principal are at Barrisdale, Beolary, and Elian reach. The last especially is commodious, well finished, and finely situat- ed near the sea. III. — Population. Popolation in 1801, 2834 IHll, 2611 1821, 2807 1831, 2874 The ancient population must have been very considerable, pro- bably double at least of what it is now. The decrease is to be ac- counted for solely by emigration ; for to such an extent has this prevailed, that America too rejoices in a Glenelg, with a popu- lation, at least equal to that which the parent parish still possesses. This emigration was at first of necessity and not of choice. The 136 INVERNESS-SHIRE. letting of large tracts of land to single individuals caused the ori- ginal banishment of the hardy and numerous race, who had for so many generations possessed the soil. This class of emigrants did not quit their native shores empty-handed. On the contrary, they carried with them the means of procuring a comfortable home be- yond the Atlantic The population which remained consisted of those who were too poor to follow, and of a few others, who, wil- ling to forego some advantages for the privilege of residing in their much loved native land, tried to content themselves with sadly re- duced possessions, until, finding that thus they were losing their all, and induced by the flattering tidings which reached them from the western continent, they too, though in different circumstances from their predecessors, bade farewell to a country, tb which they had clung till they could do so no longer. Of this description of in- habitants few (that is, not more than a dozen families,) are left be- hind ; and of those, as they are able to effect their object, occa- sional families take their flight to what they consider a happier shore. Besides the tacksmen of the large possessions into which the country has been divided, — four of whom possess Glenelg Pro- per, and about as many more the other districts, — besides them and the shepherds and servants whom they require, the population con- sists of those who dwell in villages near the sea ;— divided into two classes, — such as possess from one acre, to perhaps six of arable ground, and the grazing of from one to three cows, and others who have nothing but the cottage that shelters them, who depend on the kindness of neighbours for patches of ground for potatoes, and supply all their other wants by fishing, and such viork ^ they may obtain at home or abroad. It is but fair to remark, that the banishment of the original population, and the throwing of the country into a few large possessions, took place long before the time of the present race of proprietors, so that, whether matter of regret or satisfaction, to them belongs neither the blame nor praise. Whatever the views of political economists on this interesting topic, as to the nation's loss or gain, it is impossible not to contemplate it in reference to those exiles themselves, and, in doing this, not to lament, especially, over the injury sustained by them in a moral point of view. Amidst the plenty for their bodily support which they enjoy in America, they dwell there in a barren wil- derness as to provision for their souls. Deprived of the ordinances of religion, or but scantily and occasionally supplied, deprived also • of the means of instruction for their children, the many careless \ GLENELG. 137 and indifferent who go thither become confirmed in their spiritual deadness, whilst those of them who quit their native land under more serious impressions, also yield to the secularising influence of such an order of things ; and though they retain their integrity, and hold fast their profession in their day, yet, leaving no successors, the harps 'which for a time had awakened echoes, that previously enjoyed an unbroken sleep, are at last hung upon the willows, and the Songs of Zion cease to be heard by the streams of the fo- reign land ! How worthy this subject of the consideratiou of a pa- triotic and parental Legislature ! Nay, how imperative that the thousands who yearly go to swell the population of our growing co- lony, should not be left to perish for the lack of knowledge ! Number of families inrthe purish, • . . . . 511 chiefly employed in agriculture* . . . 211 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, . 61 Language, — Glenelg being a purely Highland district, the lan- guage spoken is almost exclusively Gaelic A few individuals un- derstand a little English, and are able to speak it ; but Gaelic is the language in which alt business is transacted, and will probably long continue to be so. Here, as throughout the whole High- lands, there exists the greatest ambition for the acquirement of English. Without it, it is well known there is little probability of advancing in the world ; but from the system pursued in our schools, the progress hitherto made in introducing English has been limited indeed. The disadvantages under which our High- land population labour in acquiring knowledge from this cause, are unspeakable ; and it were well worthy of those whose atten- tion is now, directed to the subject of training teachers for the duties of their important office, to take into consideration the ob- stacle which has to be overcome in reference to our Highland youth, and to devise the mode by which this may be fairly expect- ed to be done. The simple reading of English is easily taught ; but the difficulty lies in making this language the medium of com- munication with the minds of our youth. If children who under- stand English require what is called the intellectual system, i, e, the translation of complex into simple terms, Highlanders require a double translation ; this, and also the second rendering into their mother tongue ; and all, moreover, with the aim of ultimately sub- stituting the more for the less perfect language. With ordinary advantages the population of this parish might certainly be much raised in the scale of intelligence, being natu- rally remarkably acute, shrewd, and active. With this character, 138 INVERNESS-SHIRE. and enjoying the facilities which they do in the more remote dis- tricts, it is not he wondered that smuggling should prevail to some extent, in the pursuit of which their ingenuity and activity are so much called into exercise. Amidst all their disadvantages they are contented, and upon the whole comparatively comfortable, — there being nothing in their circumstances to prevent their possessing that happiness which is the fruit of, and can exist only in connection with, the influence of the blessings of the gospel. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The climate of the north-west coast of Scotland generally unfits it for the purposes of agriculture. In Glenelg such quantities of rain fall, and at all seasons, that an agriculturist might calculate on losing almost every fourth crop. This, and the small comparative amount of arable land, plainly point it out as adapted for pasture, — the farmer having in this line only the prospect of success, — sheep pasture, too, principally ; as the arable land could not afford sufficient supply of winter provender for any other de- scription of stock. Yet few districts of this coast, if any, equal Glenelg as to the quantity of arable land and the richness of soil. We cannot be wrong in estimating the number of acres in the whole parish that are occasionally in tillage, or might be, at about 1000. There are probably about 2000 acres under wood. The wealth of the country, however, consists in the luxuriance of its pasture. This remark applies to Knodyart and Morar, in common with Genelg Proper, but especially to the last. Good rents are con- sequently paid ; the average rent of grazing for a cow or ox being L. 2 Sterling for the season, and of pasture for a ewe or full-grown sheep, f3s. The black-cattle are generally of the pure Highland breed, kept free of all southern taint with extreme care. The old black-faced sheep stocks are rapidly disappearing before the white- faced or Cheviot, which are found uniformly more hardy, and, from the superior quality of their wool, vastly more profitable than the other description. Much attention is paid to the improvement of sheep stock, which soon finds its reward in the increased prices ob- tained for the various sorts disposed of, as well as for the wool. From the character of the climate, smearing with tar and butter is universally practised, so that white wool is not at all known among us. Every advantage, as might be naturally expected, is afforded the sheep-farmer as to the duration of his lease, which is seldom, if ever, under nineteen years. The requisite fences and buildings GLENELG. 139 for the management of this description of stock are in every case fully granted ; indeed, every facility is afforded both for rearing and improving. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish may be stated as follows : Grain of all kinds, .... L. 1000 Potatoes, ..... . 650 HHy, 585 Pasture of black-cattle and sheep, at L. 2 for cow or ox, and at ds. for a ewe or full-grown sheep, - - 7900 Gardens and orchards, - - - - ' 5(r Annual fellings and thinning of woods. - - - 200 Herring fishery, ... . - 250 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, - L. 106*35 V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication^ Sfc, — The nearest market-town is In- verness, which is at the same time the county town, and situated at the distance of about seventy miles. The means of communi- cation are good, inasmuch as the Parliamentary road into the Isle of Skye passes through the principal glen to the ferry of Kyle Rhea. This road, leading from Glensheal into Glenelg, over the stupend- ous pass of Mam Rataan, is excellent, — the bridges across the va- rious mountain streams being of the best construction, and always preserved in good repair. The Kirkton of Glenelg can boast of being a village of some extent, having' the principal street of slated houses, and displaying the attractions of some well-stocked shops. The bay upon which the village is built affords good anchorage with south-east, east, and north-east wind ; but the safest harbour with all winds is upon the opposite coast of Skye, and at the distance of one or two miles. The whole appearance of Kirkton is truly picturesque, including, as it does, the church, factor's residence, and street already allud- ed to, with its numerous train of straw-covered cottages, intersper- sed with various kinds of ornamental trees, surmounted by a thriv- ing planting of fir that towers majestically over it, and having lines of trees along the various roads that lead from it All this, combin- ed with the beauty of the extensive bay and back-ground, has pro- cured for Kirkton, from the lovers of fine scenery, much admira- tion. Under the head of villages may also be mentioned Arnis- dale, possessing a population of 600, and situated at the south- ern extremity of the district of Glenelg Proper, on the banks of LochHourn. The Alpine scenery of this locality owes nothing to art Its native grandeur, however, more than compensates this neglect. ' In this extensive parish there is no post-office. Lochalah^ in the county of Rqss, and, by the high road, at the distance of twenty 140 INVERNESS-SHIRE. miles from Glenelg, is the post-town. Thither we send, in the meantime, at our own expense, by the ferry of Loch Duich ; but it is expected that representations which have lately been made in the proper quarter, may lead to speedy improvement in this de- partment.* Ecclesiastical State. — It has been already noticed that the church is situated close by Kirkton, consequently in the northern extremi- ty of the parish ; in fact, it is within two miles of the boundary of the neighbouring parish of Glensheal. The population of the Glenelg district comprises nearly two-thirds of the whole parish, and is, with the exception of a few families, exclusively Protes- tant. It is divided between the northern and southern extremities, in the proportions of 1100 souls to the former, and 700 to the latter. Arnisdale, the capital of the latter, is distant from the church and school-house at least thirteen miles, consequently can derive very little benefit from either. The distribution of the po- pulation, and not any error in placing the church, thus renders it the place of religious assembly merely of one section of the pa- rish. Situated as it is, it accommodates the largest division ; built any where else, it either would accommodate a smaller proportion, or none at all. The former would be the case had it been erected at Arnisdale ; the latter had it been placed at an intermediate point, with the view of serving both extremities of the district, as, from the distance and difficulty of access on each hand, seldom could any, and never the weak and infirm, come up to the house of God. The accommodation afforded by the church has ac- cordingly never exceeded what is required for the northern section of the Glenelg district, with its population of 1100, as it never contained more than from 300 to 400 sittings. About six years ago, it underwent a thorough repair, and now affords, so far as it goes, very comfortable accommodation. The attendance on pub- lic worship is always good ; and the average number of communi- cants for the whole parish is about 200. The two districts of Knodyart and Morar, bounded and sepa- rated as already described, have a population, with few exceptions, entirely Catholic. To this portion of the parish the Committee of the General Assembly for the management of the Royal Boiintj has, for a number of years, assigned a missionary, — the order of his services being, that he preach two successive Sabbaths at two dif- ferent points in Knodyart, and the third at Arnisdale. From this • Sififiirfhe foregoing was written, SLpeftni/.pott, three times a week, has been esta- blished frcMn Lochalsh by the above route. GLENELG. 141 arrangement, in connection with the distance of the parish church, Arnisdale, with its large Protestant population, is truly inadequately supplied with the means of grace. Its circumstances, and also those of Knodyart, have been brought under the notice of the Religious Instruction Commission and of the General Assembly's Church Extension Committee; and it may be safely averred, that no station in Scotland can prefer a stronger claim, or come more clearly under the description of destitution, to the removal of which the Go- vernment and our church have, we trust, now resolved to apply their energies. In the Knodyart and Morar districts two Catholic priests of- ficiate, supported exclusively by the fees raised for their services. In the former there is a chapel, if the half dilapidated and straw- covered hut, which serves as a place of worship, may be dignified with that name; in the latter another is in course of erection. The attendance at the first, from the dimensions of the house, can never exceed 100. For Knodyart the Honourable the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, three years ago, granted an annual sum of L. 8 in support of a catechist ; but as grants in such circumstances, by this Society, are made on the condition of an equivalent being provided by those benefited, that an ade- quate provision may be secured, this bounty has not hitherto been made available. The present manse of Glenelg was built four years ago. It is situated at a distance of more than a mile from the church, and a little way beyond the entrance of the larger glen. Of consider- able extent, and handsome structure, from the commanding si- tuation in which it stands, and in full view of the sea, it forms a striking object in connection with the surrounding exquisite scenery. The glebe, if it may be called by this name, is of great extent ; being above 360 acres, 50 of which nearly are good arable, the remainder being pasture ; and all this, exclusive of a shealing, at the distance of a few miles, calculated to be large enough for the pasture of a hundred sheep. The farm of Buarblach, of which this forms the description, constitutes the glebe, under the burden of an annual rent paid to the proprietor, of L. 19, Os. 7d. Sterling; and became so under the following circumstances : Subsequently to the Rebellion of 1715, Government resolved to erect in this part of the county a fort or barracks, the remains of which are still extant, and the proprietor of Glenelg, the M*Leod of the day, being in London at the time, sold for the purpose the portion of land on which the building stands, and grounds to a considerable extent 142 INVERNESS-SHIRE. around. In these, however, were included the original glebe; in lieu oiF which, in a subsequent arrangement with the presbytery, the farm of Buarblach, burdened as above, was given by regular deed, in- serted in the records, to the incumbent of the parish in all time to come. At the period of the transaction, it was no more than a fair equivalent, but the increase in the value of land since makes the glebe an important addition to the income of the minister. The teinds of the parish are exhausted, and the heritors, having resign- ed them on the occasion of the last augmentation, the stipend is fixed at the annual sum of L. 237, 7s. 9^d. Sterling. Education, — We have at present five schools : one parochial, and four from the Edinburgh Gaelic School Society. The paro- chial school is situated at a short distance from the manse ; has a salary of L. 30 Sterling, with the legal accommodations, and a large attendance of scholars, too poor to pay almost anything. The branches taught are, English and Gaelic reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and sometimes Latin. Though the full legal accommodations are provided for the schoolmaster, not L. 5 a year are drawn in the shape of school fees. The principle ap- plied in selecting the situation for the church has also been ap- plied in the case of the school-house. Not only is it in the north- ern portion of the Glenelg district, so as to be useless to Arnis- dale, Knodyart, and Morar, but, in addition to this, there being no central point between the two glens, which form this northern portion, convenient for the children of both, it has been placed within the reach^of the chief population, viz. near the opening of the larger glen, where it can easily be attended by 200 scho- lars. Its distance from Glenbeg is thus three miles, from Arnis- dalc fourteen, from Knodyart eighteen and a broad ferry, and from Morar twenty, and two such ferries. In short, it is conve- nient only to about a fourth of the whole population. The immense deficiency in the means of education has hitherto been met solely by the Gaelic School Society, — a society which it is impossible to mention without rendering it the tribute of our gratitude for the unspeakable benefit it has conferred on so large a portion of the Highlands. Glenelg owes it much. But the schools established by this society being circulating, and their object limited to teach- ing to read the scriptures in Gaelic, however valuable, considering the character of the people for whom they are intended, they can- not be held to be a sufficient substitute for parochial schools. Three additional parochial schools at least, we require, one for Arnisdale, one for Knodyart, one for Morar; and besides these. GLENELG. 143 there are several situations within our wide bounds which would still plead for such valuable aid as we now derive from the patriotic and Christian society to which allusion has been made. The prevalence of Catholicism in the southern districts of the parish declares the necessity of some measure for the supply of the means of instruction ; the want of which has, doubtless, prin- cipally maintained the ascendency of that form of religion there and elsewhere. Though the gospel be preached within the reach of Catholics they will not hear ; it is a virtue, in their esteem, so to act ; and if at any time they be enticed to give their bodily pre- sence, they come so panoplied in ignorance and prejudice, .that of them it may be literally said, " they are like the deaf adder that stop- peth her ear, and will not hearken to the voice of charmers charm- ing never so wisely." If, however, this ignorance and prejudice were removed, might we not expect another character ? If the way were thus prepared through the means of instruction, might we not expect that the gospel would have free course and be glorified among them, hopeless though their case at present seems ? The number of the young betwixt six and fifteen years of age who can neither read nor write may be reckoned, for the whole parish, at 100 ; the number of persons upwards of fifteen years, in similar circumstances, at 900. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of poor on the roll is about 40, — being thus small, from the circumstance that the Ca- tholics never have applied for any portion of the funds. The bene- fit to the other poor from this cause is more than counterbalanced by the fact, that no proclamation of banns in the case of Catholic marriages ever takes place at the parish church, and consequent- ly no payment of the ordinary dues to us. The only funds possessed by the parish are the collections at the church doors, the fees for the proclamation of banns, exclusive of what fall to the share of the session-clerk and beadle ; and the mulcts or tines that are imposed by the kirk-session for various de- linquencies which come within their jurisdiction. The whole never amounts to more than L. 20 Sterling per annum, subject to pay- ment of a small salary to the precentor, stationery for the clerk, and part of the expense incurred on the interment of paupers. The average sum allotted to each person receiving aid is conse- quently small, not exceeding 8s. annually ; which is thankfully re- ceived, and never asked nor allotted, save in cases absolutely requiring it. Of the district of Glenelg .Proper, it has^long been a distinction that few travel from it as beggars into other quar- 144 INVERNESS-SHIRE. ♦ ters, and that those who require aid come not to their neighbours who are able to give, as common beggars, to receive from day to day, or from week to week, a miserable pittance ; but on some few occasions, in course of the year, when they know it will be both convenient and agreeable to bestow the required boon. It follows that the poor among us are comparatively well provided for, upon the whole, without the aid of any public assessment, and purely from the inexhaustible and grateful source of private benevolence. The truly parental leniency of the proprietor produces in a great degree this happy result. Fairs, — In this parish are held three fairs; to correspond with the great fairs in the south ; in the months of May, July, and Sep- tember respectively. Inns, — ITie number of inns is three. Fuel, — The only fuel is peat or turf, excepting that a few of the more wealthy sheep-farmers burn a proportion of coals imported, at considerable expense, from Clyde, and sometimes from Liverpool, Miscellaneous Observations. The most striking variation betwixt the present state of the pa- rish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Ac- count, consists in its being opened up by the road which runs through it ; and by the liebdomadal visits of a steam-boat, regu- larly paid, save during the stormy months of winter. By these means we have learned that there is a world beyond Glenelg. The Chinese-like self-preference which once existed, accompanied by a contempt of those, who, less fortunate than we, had been ordained to draw breath first in some other district, is passing away, and giving place to a more enlightened, a more rational, and Christian feeling. Since the period alluded to, also, the large farm system has come more fully into operation, and its evils have been developed. By it the country has been bereaved of her worthiest children, and, in the exaltation of a few individuals, thousands are doomed to po- verty. The ease to the land-owner in securing the returns of his property can be no compensation for this evil ; and, difficult though the re establishment of another order of things may now be, the gra- dual breaking up of the present system, and engaging the energies of the population who now live without an object, in that line of industry to which they have been accustomed, which they under- stand and love, seems to be the improvement that religion, patri- otism, and sound policy demand in behalf of so large, so valuable and important a portion of the community. January 1836. PARISH OF SMALL ISLES. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. DONALD MACLEAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name of the parish. — This parish derives its name from the islands of which it consists. The chief of these are four in number. They form a part of the western Hebrides, and are surrounded by the Atlantic. Their names are Eigg, Muck, Rum and Canna. To three of them, three lesser islands are respectively attached, or nearly so : — To Eigg, Ellain Chaistal^ or Castle Island ; to Muck, Ellain no *n Eachj or Horse Island ; and to Canna, Ellain Gainmhich or Sandy Island. These lesser islands, with the excep- tion of the last mentioned, are uninhabited. Ei^(/. — The island of Eigg is supposed to derive its name from the Gaelic word -Ec, signifying a niche, nick, or hollow. This ap- pellation is descriptive of the appearance of the island, which is intersected in the middle by a glen, running across from sea to sea. On each side of this glen, the land rises to a considerable elevation, terminating towards the south-west in Scur Eigg, or the lofty rock of Eigg, and towards the north-east in Bein vui, or the yellow mountain. Viewing it from a distance, it appears as if it were two islands separated by an arm of the sea. Extent of Eigg. — Eigg is about 5 or 6 miles in length, and about 3 in breadth, containing about 5580 acres, exclusive of the glebe. Topographical Appearances of Eigg. — The land upon the south side of this island rises gradually from the shore to a considerable elevation. The lower ground is alternately covered with fine grass and heath ; and arable and fertile spots are intermingled with those of a less fertile description. The soil being thin and gravelly, is well adapted for the culture of potatoes and turnips ; but, more especi- ally, the land is fitted for the rearing both of black-cattle and sheep. There are about 3649 acres of moor land in the middle of the island, which are covered with heather and coarse grass, interspersed in some places with a few small fresh water lakes, in which no fish is INVERNESS. K 146 INVKRNESS-SIIIRE. to be found. On the north-west side, is a fine sandy bay, above which there is a considerable extent of low rich ground, very fer- tile, and yielding excellent crops of potatoes, bear, and oats. Here, there is a great quantity of limestone, which might easily be worked, and made available for agricultural and other useful purposes. No attempt of this kind, however, has been as yet made. It is entirely formed of shells. ScurEigg. — Scur Eigg is an immense rock, placed on the summit of the highest land in the island. The front of it looks towards the east, and from the sea assumes a bold and picturesque appearance. From the base it is about 400 feet in perpendicular height. In a clear serene day, the prospect from the top of this rock is beau- tiful and extensive. From this, you see the ocean studded with islands ; ships of all sizes passing and repassing on their various courses ; hills and dales, mountains and glens, — with one continu- ed outline of coast ; all of which to the eye of the beholder must be indeed very interesting. Numerous caves are around the coast ; some of them wide and spacious, and some low and narrow. Among these, is one called in Gaelic naimh Fhraing^ signifying the cave of Frances, — so narrow at the mouth, that a person must creep on hands and knees to obtain an entrance. Within, it is lofty and ex- tensive. In this cave, a great many human bones are still to be seen, said to be the bones of the inhabitants of the island, who were Macdonalds, and who had taken refuge in it as a place of safety, where they were discovered and suffocated by the Macleods, then at enmity with them. Professor Jameson gives the following account of this cave : — " The minister of this parish, who was so good as to accompany us to several parts of the island, led us by a very rugged path to a wild sequestered spot where there is a cave, remarkable, in the annals of this isle, for the murder of the Macdonalds^ inhabitants of Eigg, by the Macleods of Skye. As this story is truly charac- teristic of the state of society in those parts at that period, 1 think it will not be uninteresting to relate it shortly. " A party of the Macleods having landed upon the small island of Eillan Chastel, behaved so outrageously to the women who were there tending cattle, that their friends instantly pursued and put several of them to death. This so enraged the clan of Mac- leod, that they determined to take revenge, by ravaging the isle and putting to death the murderers of their brothers. The island- ers, sensible of their weakness, prepared to shelter themselves upon SMALL ISLES. H7 the first appearance of an enemy. Soon afterwards a number of boats were seen approaching the isle ; when the trembling inhabi- tants retired in despair to this cave, their only refuge. The Mac- leods soon landed and traversed the whole island ; but as they could discover no human being, they concluded that the Mac- donalds had made their escape to the mainland, or to some of the adjacent islands. Disappointed and enraged, they were about to leave Eigg to return to Skye, when unfortunately one of the horde observed the mark of footsteps on the snow ; and thus they were enabled to discover the cave where the WTetched inhabitants had taken refuge. Shrieks of despair were interrupted for a little by a proposal of the Macleods, that, if the murderers were given up to punishment, the other lives should bespared. This was only a cruel aggravation of their sufferings, as the Macleods were the ag- gressors. Connected, as the Macdonalds were, by the dearest ties, they were determined to perish together rather than to give up one of their number. The Macleods, with the most savage barbarity, instantly kindled great fires at the mouth of the cave, which soon suffocated the whole of the miserable inhabitants. " One often listens even to such a tale, as to the description of a battle, without much interest ; but the view of the scene never fails to awaken a keener sympathy, — the circumstances are brought nearer to the mind, and seem to be passing before us. We stood on the very ground where this tragedy was acted, and felt our sen- sibility increased by the sequestered and dreary place in which the deed was done. But even this interest was faint when compared to that we felt when, after creeping a considerable way through a low and narrow entrance, half-covered with brushwood, we found ourselves at last within a large and gloomy cave, the extent and height of which we could not distinguish, and perceived the gleams of the lights we carried reflected from the bones and skulls of the unhappy Macdonalds. The force with which the truth and all the circumstances of this dreadful tale struck at this moment upon our minds, and the strange variety of sensations excited by an event so extraordinary, it is not easy to find words to express. " The entrance of the cave is low and narrow for about 12 feet, the breadth 14 feet, and in length it extends inwards nearly 213 feet. The air was damp and raw. Our lights struck faintly on the black sides of the caves, without dispelling that deep and solemn gloom which harmonized so well with its melancholy story. The projecting masses of rock were dimly illuminated, while the 148 INVERNESS-SHIRE. skulls and scattered bones catched a strong light Our figures, too, touched with the paley flame, showed the features, or an out- stretched arm, while the parts of the body removed from the light were lost in the gloom. Even the deep and sonorous voide of the parson had its effect. The whole scene was admirably adapted for the canvass; but it would require a very rare talent in the painter who should attempt it."* There is no safe harbour in this island for large shipping ; but a quay sufficiently secure for their own purposes has been built by the inhabitants. Name of Much. — The Island of Muck derives its name, it is said, from the monks of lona, — having been first called Monk Island, which afterwards by corruption was changed into Muck. It was in former times church lands, attached to that celebrated monastery. Extent and Topographical Appearances of Muck. — Muck is reck- oned 2 miles long, and 1 broad. It is a low fertile island, well adapted for the rearing of black cattle, and for the cultivation of green and corn crops. With the exception of a little hill in the north end, whose summit is covered with heath, it is all green. The grass is of the finest description. Upon the whole, it is a beautiful little island. There is no safe harbour in it, but small boats are secured by means of a quay, built by the inhabitants. Here there is no peat for fuel, so that the people are under the necessity of importing this necessary article of household economy from the mainland of Ardnamurchan. Name of Rum. — The Island of Rum derives its name from its magnitude and extent, in comparison with the other islands ; Rum signifying in Gaelic roominess or capacity. Extent and Topographical Appearances of Rum. — It is of a circu- lar form, and about 18 or 20 miles in circumference. The island is lofty and mountainous; and although a few of the hills are green, yet the most of them exhibit a rough, abrupt, and craggy appear- ance. From the rocky materials of which they consist, they are^ especially in winter during snow, dangerous and unsafe for shep- herds, who frequent them in quest of sheep, so that upon more than one occasion, some of them have been lost. Upon the east- south-east and north-east sides, the ground is covered for the most part with heath, strong heather, and coarse grass. The soil is soft and wet, composed of peat earth over a substratum of rock. On the west and north-west sides, it is almost all covered with a green • Jameson's Mineralogy of the Scottish Isles, Vol. ii. p. 41, &c. SMALL ISLES. 149 sward ; the grass is fine, and exhibits a striking contrast to the other parts of the island. Some of the hills are here green to the very summits. The soil, the grass, the land and rocks, bear a striking resemblance to those of the opposite coast of Sandy Island, and seem to indicate that, at some former period, they had been separated by some powerful operation of nature. About the middle of the island, among the mountains, are several fresh water lakes of considerable dimensions. Small trout are abundant in some of them. Around this islands the coast is bold and wild ; more especially, the south and west sides are nearly altogether sur- rounded with one continued rampart of rock. Upon the east side, there is a good, safe, and commodious harbour, for all manner of shipping ; and lately an excellent quay has been made there by the present tacksman of the island. Namcj Extent^ S^c. of Canna. — The etymology of Canna is to me unknown. The island is about 5 or 6 miles in length, and 2 or 3 in breadth, containing, exclusive of Sandy Island, 2253 acres, of which 459 are arable, and 1794 are pasture. This island, together with Sandy Island adjoining, are both very fertile, yielding great crops of potatoes, and barley or bear. From 100 to 200 quarters of barley or bear are annually disposed of, and about 3200 bushels of potatoes, — being all the produce of the island, over and above the quantity which the inhabitants re- quire for their own maintenance. The island is all clothed with verdure. The grass is fine and short, and well adapted for the rearing of black-cattle, of which a good many are annually sent to the markets in the south and sold. Here is an excellent har- bour; well sheltered, safe and commodious. In former times, it was much frequented, particularly by the Baltic traders, and is still frequented by shipping of every description. In its vici- nity is an eminence called Compass hill, which is said to disar- range the compass so much, as to cause it to whirl round, so that, when placed near it, no faith can be placed in its magnetic virtue. Geology. — The geology of this parish was first examined by Professor Jameson ; afterwards Dr MacCulloch, in his usual style, published an account of this interesting groupe of islands, but with- out acknowledging the source from which he derived the principal details of its mineralogy. More lately, several continental natu- ralists have visited aad published observations on these islands ; and their natural history has at various times engaged the atten- 150 INVERNESS-SHIRE. tion of British observers. The following notice of the geology of these islands is all we can spare room for : 1. Eigg. — Is composed of those newer secondary strata of sand* stone, limestone, and slate-clay, named lias, and of various trap and pitchstone rocks. The sandstone^ which is generally white, is composed of grains of quartz held together by a basis of marl. Often it exhibits the globular structure first observed in sandstone rocks by Professor Jameson. The limestone is grey, with a com- pact fracture, and contains various organic remains, such as am- monites, belemnites, gryphytes, &c. The slate chy^ which has the usual characters of that substance, contains various organic remains. Fossil plants, still retaining their woody structure, occur in it. The trap rocks, which form so considerable a portion of this island, are of the species known under the names greenstone, amyg- daloid, wacke, and tuflFa. These rocks contain in cavities and small veins various beautiful minerals, such as stilbite, mesotype, analcime, calcareous spar, quartz crystals, and calcedony. The pitchstone rocks are pitchstone, properly so called, and pitchstone porphyry. The pitchstone, which is of various colours, as black, green, blue, sometimes contains mineral oil. This oil, which is the colouring matter of some of the varieties of the pitchstone, oc- curs also in cavities of the rock. The pitchstone prophyry contains in a base of pitchstone crystals of glassy felspar. The rock of the Scuir exhibits one of the most splendid displays of the columnar ar- rangement hitherto discovered in this or in any other country. Pro- fessor Jameson, who first made known this splendid scene in his " Mineralogy of the Western Islands," has the following remarks: " We now ascended from this point to the Scuir Eigg, which we have before observed to be the highest part of the island. This hill, from its peculiar shape, has at a distance a singular appear- ance ; but as we approach nearer, it rises much in grandeur, and at length a stupendous columnar promontory bursts on our view. The whole of this promontory is perfectly mural, and extends for upwards of a mile and a-half, and rises to a height of several hun- dred feet It is entirely columnar, and the columns rise in suc- cessive ranges until they reach the summit, where, from their great height, they appear, when viewed from below, diminutive. Staffa is an object of the greatest beauty and regularity ; the pillars are as distinct as if they had been reared by the hand of art; but it has not the extent or sublimity of the Scuir Eigg. The one may be compared with the greatest exertions of human power ; the SMALL ISLES. 151 Other is characteristic of the wildest and most inimitable works of nature." The Scuir Eigg Dr MacCulloch maintains to be the old- est of the igneous rocks in the island, although even the merest tyro in geology could show that it is the newest. 2. Rum. — This rugged island is composed of an old red sand- stone, which is traversed and overlaid by various plutonian or ig- nigenous rocks. The red sandstone, which is distinctly stratified, dipping generally to the south-west, alternates with beds of a red- coloured slate clay. The plutonian rocks are the following : au- gite-greenstone, (in some parts forming an augite rock,) amygda- loid, basaltic greenstone, and porphyry sometimes assuming the syenitic character. In cliffs of amygdaloid opposite the island of Canna, there occur beautiful varieties of heliotrope or blood-stonfe, of calcedony, and other minerals usually met with in cavities and veins in amygdaloidal rocks. 3. Canna. — Is composed chiefly of ignigenous rocks of the trap series, — very small portions only of the lias, a secondary rock, occur- ring in the island. The ignigenous rocks are common augite- greenstone, basaltic greenstone, amygdaloid, and trap tuffa. The trap tuffa, which occurs very abundantly in the island, is made up of rounded fragments of trap, sandstone, granite, &c. cemented by a trap base. In some places, Professor Jameson observed pieces of wood, resembling the surturbrand of Iceland, imbedded in it ; also thin seams of brown coal. Cavities in the amygdaloid are lined with zeolites of different species, much prized by collectors of mi- nerals, also crystals of calcareous spar. II. — Civil History. Land'Owners. — Dr Hugh Macpherson, Professor of Greek in King's College, Aberdeen, is proprietor of the Island of Eigg. It became his property by purchase at Whitsunday 1828. Before that period, it, with the Island of Canna, formed a part of the large and extensive possessions of the ancient family of Clanranald. The Islands of Rum and Muck belong to Maclean of Coll, and the Is- land of Canna to Macneil, who likewise got possession of it by pur- chase in 1828. Parochial Registers. — Parochial registers have never been regu- larly kept in this parish. Antiquities. — Two fortifications seem to have been in the Islands of Muck and Canna (one in each,) though now so much defaced by time, that scarce any vestige ofthemcanbe traced. Each of them had the name of Dun^ signifying a castle or fort, — the one in Muck 152 INVERNESS-SHIRE. being named Dun Ban or White Castle ; and that in Canna, Corra Dhun or unsteady fort, from the small extent of its foundation, it being placed on a high and very narrow rock. From this castle, one of the farms in the island still takes its name. About the centre of the Island of Rum, long dikes may still be traced, which, beginning at considerable distances from each other, gradually approach, until at last they draw pretty near to one another. These are said to have been intended as toils for deer, which were once, as is well known, numerous in that island. To these enclosures the inhabit- ants collected them, and, forcing them by degrees to their narrow- est recesses, they were finally caught by their pursuers. The places where these enclosures were made still maintain the names of TigKn Sealffy that is, the hunting-houses; so that it is likely that at the termination of the dikes, houses were erected, into which the deer were constrained to enter, and in this manner a number of them would be at once secured. Mansion^Houses, — With the exception of Mr MacneiPs house in Canna, there are no other mansion-houses. He is the only heritor that resides within the bounds of the parish. His house was originally intended for a farm-house, but lately he improved it considerably, — insomuch, that it is now a large, commodious, and comfortable habitation. Behind the dwelling-house is his garden, which is well stocked both with ornamental and fruit trees, and is otherwise exceedingly productive — in greens and roots. In this garden are the only trees which are to be seen upon the island. In the Island of Rum, a good dwelling house, with splendid of- fices, was erected by Dr Maclean, the present tacksman, in 1826, who spared neither pains nor expense in draining, fencing, and planting around his residence, at the end of the harbour in that is- land. His improvements have been carried on, on a very exten- sive scale. They exhibit both taste and judgment, and to reward his diligence, his plantation of trees is now in a forward and thriv- ing state. The other islands may be said to be as nature left them, saving that in Eigg tolerable farm-houses are to be found. III. — Population. In 1831, the population of the parish was found to be 1015 souls. Some years previous it was much greater. In 1826, all the inhabitants of the Island of Rum, amounting at least to 400 souls, found it necessary to leave their native country, and to seek for new abodes in the distant wilds of our colonies in America. Of all the old residenters, only one family remained upon the SMALL ISLES. 153 island. The old and the young, the feeble and the strong, were all united in this general emigration, — the former to find tombs in a foreign land, — the latter to encounter toils, privations, and dan- gers, to become familiar with customs, and to acquire habits, — to which they had formerly been entire strangers. A similar emigra- tion took place in 1828^ from the Island of Muck, so that the pa- rish has now been much depopulated. The population of Rum was thus reduced from 400 to 100 or 130. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, with the rearing of black-cattle and sheep, is the prevailing occupation in these islands. The sea-weed, both that which is cut, and that which is cast ashore by the winter storms, is the chief manure. With the aid of this, the people generally raise as many potatoes, (on which they for the most part subsist,) as are requisite for their maintenance during the whole of the year, — each family requiring from 240 to 320 bushels. From 300 to 400 heads of black-cattle are annually sold in the parish to deal- ers at home, who again bring them to the south country markets for sale. The number of sheep pastured in the Island of Rum atone is about 8000, which are all of the black-faced kind, and which are likewise all salved or smeared. Among the inhabitants are some artisans, such as weavers, boat-builders, smiths, tailors, and one shoemaker : but although these devote some of their time to the various employments of their calling, yet they chiefly depend upon their agricultural occupations for their subsistence. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no villages ; and no inns, excepting one in the Island of Eigg. In each of the islands, there was formerly an inn. There is no packet, nor any regular means of communication with the post-office or main-land from any one of the islands. For this and other reasons, every person is under the necessity of keeping a boat always in readiness for his own comfort and convenience. The distance between the Island of Eigg and the nearest post-office at Arisaig is thirteen or fourteen miles. The other islands are at much more considerable distances. A road has been carried across the Island of Eigg, by the statute labour of the inhabitants. Ecclesiastical State. — There is no church on any of the is- lands. In Eigg we assemble in the school-house for public wor- ship ; but in the other islands we sometimes meet in the fields, when we cannot conveniently get a house to receive us. The manse was erected in the Island of Eigg in 1790. It has been often repair- INVERNESS. L 154 INVERNESS-SHIRE. ed, but it is so much exposed to the winter gales, and so high above the level of the sea, that it is hardly possible to make it comfort- able, or to keep it so for any length of time. The glebe is a grass glebe, and may maintain sixteen soums of black-cattle The stipend is one of the small livings, and Government pays L. 64, 16s. annually. Education. — There is but one parochial school in the parish. It is in the Island of Eigg. The house was built in 1829, and made very comfortable. The salary was, the same year, in- creased from L. 18 to L. 30. The school fees may amount to L. 10 a year. The present schoolmaster is not noted for atten- tion to his scholars, or diligence in the discharge of his duty. He seldom has more than from 20 to 30 scholars, and often he has none, the parents withholding them from the school, as knowing that they make no progress in their education under him. Ex- cepting in the Island of Muck, where the Gaelic School Society has had a teacher for the last three years, there is no other school in any of the islands. Principal Baird, has, however, promised to send one, if the requisite accommodations can be obtained from the heritor. There are about 600 persons above six years of age in this parish who can neither write nor read. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor upon the roll in this parish is 10. They live in their own houses, or with their nearest relations. The only fund from which they derive any be- nefit is one of L. 30, bequeathed by the late Captain Mackaskill of Morinish, in the Island of Mull. Any addition to the interest of this sum is made up by fines. We have no beggars. January 1836. ■i SMALL ISLES. 153 island. The old and the young, the feeble and the strong, were all united in this general emigration, — the former to find tombs in a foreign land, — the latter to encounter toils, privations, and dan- gers, to become familiar with customs, and to acquire habits, — to which they had formerly been entire strangers. A similar emigra- tion took place in 1828, from the Island of Muck, so that the pa- rish has now been much depopulated. The population of Rum was thus reduced from 400 to 100 or 130. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, with the rearing of black-cattle and sheep, is the prevailing occupation in these islands. The sea-weed, both that which is cut, and that which is cast ashore by the winter storms, is the chief manure. With the aid of this, the people generally raise as many potatoes, (on which they for the most part subsist,) as are requisite for their maintenance during the whole of the year, — each family requiring from 240 to 320 bushels. From 300 to 400 heads of black-cattle are annually sold in the parish to deal- ers at home, who again bring them to the south country markets for sale. The number of sheep pastured in the Island of Rum alone is about 8000, which are all of the black-faced kind, and which are likewise all salved or smeared. Among the inhabitants are some artisans, such as weavers, boat-builders, smiths, tailors, and one shoemaker : but although these devote some of their time to the various employments of their calling, yet they chiefly de- pend upon their agricultural occupations for their subsistence. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no villages ; and no inns, excepting one in the Island of Eigg. In each of the islands, there was formerly an inn. There is no packet, nor any regular means of communication with the post-office or mainland from any one of the islands. For this and other reasons, every person is under the necessity of keeping a boat always in readiness for his own comfort and convenience. The distance between the Uland of Eigg and the nearest post-office at Arisaig is thirteen or fourteen miles. The other islands are at much more considerable distances. A road has been carried across the Island of Eigg, by the statute labour of the inhabitants. Ecclesiastical State, — There is no church on any of the islands. In Eigg we assemble in the school-house for public worship ; but in the other islands we sometimes meet in the fields, when we c;m- not conveniently get a house to receive us. The manse was erected in the Island of Eigg in 1790. It has been often repair- is ./.a nbss. L 154 INVERNESS-SHIRli. ed, but it is so much exposed to the winter gales, and so high above the level of the sea, that it is hardly possible to make it comfort- able, or to keep it so for any length of time. The glebe is a grass glebe, and may maintain sixteen soums of black-cattle. The stipend is one of the small livings, and Government pays L.64, 16s annually. Education. — There is but one parochial school in the parish. It is in the Island of Eigg. The house was built in 1829, and made very comfortable. The salary was, the same year, in- creased from L. 18 to L. 30. The school fees may amount to L. 1 a year. The present schoolmaster is not noted for atten- tion to his scholars, or diligence in the discharge of his duty. He seldom has more than from 20 to 30 scholars, and often he has none, the parents withholding them from the school, as knowing that they make no progress in their education under him. Ex- cepting in the Island of Muck, where the Gaelic School Society has had a teacher for the last three years, there is no other school in any of the islands. Principal Baird has, however, promised to send one, if the requisite accommodations can be obtained from the heritor. There are about 600 persons above six years of age in this parish who can neither write nor read. Poor and Parochial jFimcfe.— The number of poor upon the roll in this parish is 10. They live in their own houses, or with their nearest relations. The only fund from which they derive any be- nefit is one of L#. 30, bequeathed by the late Captain Macaskill of Morinish, in the Island of Mull. Any addition to the interest of this sum is made up by fines. We have no beggars. January 1836. PARISH OF HARRIS. PRESBYTERY OF UIST, SYNOD OF 6LENELG. THE REV. JOHN M ACIVOR, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Till of late, this parish was designed Kilbride. It is now denominated in English, Harris; and evidently derives its name from " na hardibhj* — a Gaelic expression signifying the heights, — this parish being the highest and most mountainous part of the long island in which it is situated. Extent and Boundaries. — Its extent from north to south is 50 miles, and its breadth varies from 8 to 24 miles. Its superficial extent is upwards of 146 square miles. It is bounded on the north, by the parishes of Lochs and Uig in Lewis ; on the west, by the Atlantic Ocean ; on the east, by the channel ; and on the south, by the parish of North Uist, from which it is separated by a nar- row sound, running betwixt the Island of Bernera and Uist, called Caolas Uisty t. e. the Sound of Uist. A chain of mountains run along from the sound of Harris to the boundaries of Lewis, the highest average from 2000 to 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The shore along the west coast is, in some parts, sandy, in other parts rocky and precipitous. The east coast is indented with harbours, bays, and creeks. Islands. — A multitude of islands lie irregularly interspersed through the sound of Harris. Four of these are inhabited, viz. Bernera, Pabba, Ensay, and Killigray ; the rest are consigned to pasturage. The other islands of any extent in the parish are Scalpa, Tarrensay, and Scarp : these are all peopled. Meteorology^ Sfc. — The temperature of the atmosphere for eight months is cold and moist ; during^ the rest of the year, it is mild. The winds blow more frequently from the south and west than any other point. The greatest quantity of rain falls in the months of September, October, and November. The most prevalent com- plaint is rheumatism. The climate is considered very salubrious. The fresh water lakes and rivulets that intersect the country are so numerous, that it is impossible to particularize them. The 156 INVBRNESS-SHIRE. waters of Lacksta, Scunt, and Obbe teem with salmon and trout, and aSbrd delightful sport to the angler. Geology. — The predominating rock in this parish is gneiss, but subordinate to it are many other rocks of the primitive class. It is much to be regretted that hitherto no skilful geologist has fully examined the numerous mineralogical and geological relations of the rocks of Harris. Zoology. — Grouse, which were very plentiful on the moors, some years ago, have lately suffered from the depredations of the pole- cat and other vermin. Large herds of deer range among the hills and glens. Innumerable flocks of geese, plover, and pigeons fre- quent the low grounds and islands. The eagle visits the inacces- sible rocks. The natives occasionally capture with the harpoon the sun-fish, which loiters along the coast during the summer months, and slaughter with clubs a considerable number of seals in the island of Gaasker. Oysters are very abundant, and several boats are engaged in the fishing of lobsters, which are regularly forwarded bv smacks to the London market. Particular attention has been^paid to the rearing of black-cattle and sheep. Cheviots have been introduced into the country, and are found to answer uncommonly well. II.-— Civil History. Land'OWTur. — The Earl of Dunmore is sole proprietor of the parish. Parochial Register. — It is only within the last few years that a parochial register of marriages and births has been^regularly kept. Antiquities. — At Rodil stand the ruins of the church['attached to the Priory of St Clements. It was once used as one of the pa- rochial places of worship in this parish, but has been deserted froQi its dilapidated state. Among the remains ascribed to Druidism are two stones raised on end, about eight feet above the ground, and surrounded by a circle of smaller stones. There is scarcely a vestige of the Danish fortresses extant, the materials having been applied to other buildings. HI. — Population. In the year 1755, the population amounted to 1969 souls; in 1792, to 2536; and at the present period, it is upwards of 4000. By the last census, there were, males, 1 863 ; females, 2037 ; fa- milies, 777 ; houses inhabited, 759. Language. — The Gaelic language is universally spoken. Character and Habits of the People, — The people are generally sober and industrious. Some of their articles of dress are of the HAUIilS. 157 most primitive description, and of the coarsest materials, all n>a- nnfactured by themselves. Their food principally consists of po- tatoes, fish, and meal. They seldom can indulge themselves in the luxury of either beef or mutton. Crime is very rare among them. There is not a tradition of a murder, and thefi; is also un- frequent. A powerful religious revival took place among them five years ngo, and in consequence the Sabbath is strictly observed. IV. — Industry. Agrictdture, — The arable ground is of very small extent The district is more adapted for pasture. Some of the most fertile farms, possessed by small tenants, have been depopulated, and con- verted into extensive sheep-walks. RerUn — When kelp was in great demand, the rental of this pro- perty amounted to L.7000 a year ; it is now reduced to L.8500. The estate was purchased a few years ago by Lord Dunmore for L.60,000. Rate ofWagesn — Farm-servants receive from L.3 to L.3, 10s. in the half-year, and female servants from L.I, 5s. to L.], 10s. during the same period. Masons and carpenters from Is. 6d. to 2s. per diem, exclusive of victuals. No leases have been hitherto given to small tenants on the estate, which must necessarily prevent the improvement of the soil. The cottages occupied by these humble men are of very small dimensions, composed of unhewn stone and earth for mor- tar, thatched with straw, in which they and their families, as well as their cows and horses, live for seven months in the year. The most respectable farm-steadings are built of stone and lime, but, from long unoccupancy, are now generally, if not wholly, falling rapidly into decay. Fisheries. — Various attempts were made by Alexander Mac- leod, Esq., the late worthy and benevolent proprietor, to establish fishing colonies in several parts of this parish ; but they all proved unsuccessful. Produce. — The average annual value of raw produce raised in the country may be estimated as follows : — Oats and barley, about - L.2500 Potatoes, aooo Hay, 400 Sheep, Black.cattlc, 1200 1500 Wool, - 1600 Fisheries, 400 Kelp, 1300 Total raw produce, . L. 11,900 158 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Manufactures. — There is no manufacture of any kind but that of kelp, in which all the population capable of manual labour is employed for two months in the year. Navigation. — There are only four small vessels belonging to owners on this property. They are employed in transferring kelp to market. The harbour of Scalpa is much resorted to by foreign shipping. V. — Parochial Economt. Ecclesiastical State. — The year in which the parish church (which is now in ruins) was built cannot be accurately ascertained. It is about the centre of the parish, and formerly accommodated t250 sitters. The present incumbent has applied for a new church.* The manse was built in 1827, and the value of the glebe is about L#.16. The stipend has been made up by Government to L.150. A Government church was erected at Bernera in 1829. The district assigned to the pastor comprehends all the islands in the Sound of Harris. A missionary is supported by the Royal Bounty at Tarbart. A church and manse were granted for his ac« commodation by the late proprietor, A. N. Macleod. All the pa- rishioners profess to belong to the Established Church. The an- nual church collections amount to L.2. Education. — The total number of schools in the parish are four, — one parochial, and three supported by the Gaelic School So* ciety. The branches taught in the parish school are, Latin, aritb- metic, writing, and English reading. The parochial schoolmaster has only L.21 of salary, and fees are seldom exacted. The school-house is in such a wretched state of repair, that parents have been under th6 necessity of withdrawing their children. Very few above thirty years are able to read. The young people read the Scriptures in their native tongue. Poor. — The church collections are so trifling, that a distribution of the funds rarely takes place. They are expended in the inter- ment of paupers. It would be highly desirable that the proprie- tors should give an annual allowance for the support of the poor in the parish. Fairs. — The annual cattle-tryst takes place in the month of July. /ww.— There are two licensed inns in the parish. They are seldom frequented by the natives. -^wtf/. — Peat is the only fuel used by the inhabitants. • A new church was erected last season capable of accommodating 400 sitters. north uist. 159 Miscellaneous Observations. The condition of the people might be ameliorated by enlarging their tenements of land, granting leases, and giving encouragement to schools. Churches and school-houses have been hitherto much neglected. r Dravm up Dece^nber 18^9, revised J nuary 184L PARISH OF NORTH UIST. PRESBYTERY OF UIST, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. FINLAY M*RAE, MINISTER, L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The term Uist may be distinctly traced to the word VUt^ which the Danes and other northern nations are said to use, signifying the west Extent J §*c — The length of North Uist is about 30 miles, and its breadth varies from 8 to 14 miles. The exact number of square miles it contains, it is not easy very accurately to ascer- tain, the greater part of it being, beyond description, indented by arms of the sea and fresh water lakes. North Uist lies nearly in the middle of the range of islands from the But, or northernmost point of the Lewis to Barra Head, the southernmost part. This range taken together b denominated the Long Island. Boundaries. — It is bounded on the north-east by the Sound of Harris, varying in breadth from 1 to 8 miles, and which separates it from the parish of the same name ; on the south-east, by the Minch, or a channel of about 16 miles breadth, which divides it from Skye ; on the south-west, it is divided from Benbecula, a part of the parish of South Uist, by sands of some extent, passable on foot at low-water, but covered by the sea at about half-tide ; and OD the north-west, by the Atlantic Ocean. Topographical Appearances. — Its figure is almost triangular* Along the east coast, there is a range of hills, scarcely deserving the name of mountains, rising gradually from the north to the south, and varying in height from 300 to above 700 feet. These are intersected, not by ravines, valleys, and rivulets, but by inlets IGO INVERNESS-SHIUE. of the sea, forming safe and commodious harbours, and supplying shelter and safety to the weather-beaten ship and to the storm- weary sailor. Within this range, towards the west, is a large extent of soft, deep, barren moor, intersected in every direction by fresh water lakes of several miles in length. Farther on still, in the same di- rection, another less regular range of hills, of no great height, arises covered with heath and some coarse pasture ; and beyond, is a thin black moor, covering hard gravel, and occasionally inter- spersed with flats and meadows. Next to this, still to the west, is the part principally appropriated to pasture and culture, which exhibits a striking contrast to the barren, boggy, and useless scene behind. With the exception of a few bold rocky headlands, the west coast is all along bounded with light white sands, chiefly formed of shells, crumbled and pounded by the irresistible force of the Atlantic waves, gathering strength as they unintemiptedly roll their magnificent, awfully grand, and incalculable force upon the shores. The sand, or rather shells, thus literally ground to beautiful fineness, is, when dry, wafted by the winds into the interior of the country to a very considerable distance; and possessing the qualities of lime, it adds much to the productive qualities and the beauty of the belt over which it extends. This belt which, generally speaking, is the only cultivated part of the west side, is ex- ceedingly beautiful and pleasant in the summer and autumn months. If these seasons be accompanied with warmth and mois- ture, this part yields the richest pasture of white and red clover, . and other plants and herbs delighting in dry sandy situations. It also yields luxuriant crops of barley or bear, and^ under proper management, grain crops of every description. In dry seasons, however, by the heat of the sand, the grass becomes sickly, wither- ed, and of a burnt appearance; the crops on the machirs^ a term used for sandy soil, fail ; and vegetation appears almost destroyed. Although, during a favourable summer season, the country exhibits a delightful prospect of beauty and luxuriance, the scene is totally changed during the winter and spring months. Without high hills, and destitute of trees to shelter from the tremendous gales which during these seasons prevail, bare and unprotected, the face of the country lies exposed to their influence. The .finer, the softer, the more tender, and the more valuable grasses are melted away by the rain, the frost, and storms ; and the cattle, at NORTH UIST. 161 this time of the year, principally depend for their sustenance on the stores of the corn-yards ; and if this source prove not sufficient, the loss of many valuable cattle is the consequence, and a scarcity of provisions among the poorer of the inhabitants in summer. The cattle being out-liers, or not housed, in the circumstances I have stated, they must suffer. But the remark does not apply to the east side of thd country, where there are excellent winterings for cattle. The west side of Uist is not, for the reason stated, so valuable for wintering as the less fine and more rough pasture of Skye and Harris. Caves. — Of caves or caverns — there are only two worth" describ- ing. One of these is at the point of Tighary, situated at a short dis* tance from the parish church. It is hollowed, a considerable space in the rock, by the action of the waves, which beat with violence against the point where it is formed. The outer or external side of the cave is naturally yet regularly arched through the solid rock. Within this arch, from the superincumbent surface, is an opening of about twelve feet diameter. The immense volume of flood poured into the cave, too copious at once to recede, rises during and after a storm, as if from the bowels of the earth, in splendid magnificence, to the height of upwards of 200 feet. It is called Sloch-a-chorry, or cave of the kettle. Three miles from this, on the farm of Scol- peg, is the other cave, similarly formed, but more extensive and capacious, and in consequence not producing the like phenome- non ; but exhibiting awful grandeur to such as admire ** cliffs of darkness, caves of wonder. Echoing the Atlantic*s thunder.** Harbours, — It has been already observed that the greater.part of the coast washed by the Atlantic is bordered with flat sands. This renders it inaccessible and unsafe for vessels of considerable size. There are some places, however, on the west coast, where vessels belonging to the country and others take shelter, and ship kelp in the summer season. These places are Digmore, on the farm of Bal- ranald, not far from the middle of the parish. The bay of Houg- whary, a few miles farther north, where, at an inconsiderable ex- pense, a key or breakwater might be erected to protect small ves* sels while shipping or discharging such produce as might be ex- ported from or imported to the very populous district in its imme- diate neighbourhood. At a distance of about six miles farther north, at each end of the Island of Vallay, there is a safe anchorage. That at the 162 INVKRNESS-SHIRE. east eDd of the island, if better known, might afford safety to ships in distress. At the Island of Lingay, ten miles farther north still, there is an excellent anchorage. The best of these are, during the stormy season, dangerous on account of the rocks, shoals, and breakers by which they are sur- rounded, and will only be sought for in cases of extremity and danger. In order to afford a chance of relief and safety, it is pro* per they should be known. Six miles to the west of North Uist lies the Island of Husker, about two miles long but very narrow. In this island there is likewise an anchoring-place. From its situation, and a short dis- tance to the west of it being clear of rocks, it would prove an eli- gible station for a lighthouse, which, in connection with that lately erected at Barrahead, would undoubtedly be the means of warn- ing many ships of the danger of getting embayed and wrecked on a dangerous coast. If nature has denied to one side of North Uist places of pro- tection and security for shipping, she has amply remunerated the deficiency to the other. The south-east coast is very bold, bound- ed all along by the range of hills or mountains already described, except where intersected by inlets of the sea. These inlets, situated at nearly regular distances of six miles from each other, form safe and commodious harbours. That farthest north, situated at the boundary of the parish in that direction, is Cheesebay, a har- bour of easy access from the south-east, and safe for vessels of any burden at all seasons of the year. South of this is Lochmaddy, which, by the rising ground on either side, and the numerous islands it contains, forms not a harbour only, but harbours, numerous, safe, and capacious, sufficient to sup- ply accommodation for almost any amount of shipping. It likewise affords an admirable outlet for vessels going either north or south. It is well-known and is much frequented. It derives its name from three bold rocks, called Madies or dogs, nearly in a line, a little beyond the entrance of the harbour. Two of these rocks are decidedly basaltic, rising precipitously from the deep to the height of about eighty feet; and although within 100 yards of the coast, they are of a character and species totally different from any rock along its shores. As lighthouses are, in this age, fortunately multiplying for the encouragement of commerce, and the safety of human life, few stations are more suitable than Maddy More^ the 4 NORTH UIST. 163 highest of the basaltic pillars mentioned, which points to, or ra- ther is at the very entrance of one of the finest harbours in Scot- land. South of this is Loch-west, which extends six miles into the country. The entrance is narrow, but the anchoring-ground safe, and would undoubtedly be more frequented, did not its more capa« cious and better-known neighbour, Lochmaddy, almost monopolize the trade. Southward still is the harbour of Rhueva, which, likewise, is very narrow at its inlet, but safe when entered. And lastly, at the southern extremity of the parish, is the harbour of Keallin, formed by the point of the same name and the Island of Ronay. It is considered safe for vessels of no large burden. The grounds along these harbours, generally barren and mossy, afford no idea of the fertility and beauty which the west side pre- sents. Islands. — About two miles from North Uist, and to the north of it, lies Boveray, an island a mile and a-half long and half-a mile broad. It is very fertile, supporting thirty families in comfort equal to that possessed by others of their class in this part of the coun- try. Further south, and adjoining the main-land of North Uist, is Orinsay, about half-a mile long, and insulated only at high water. Of this description there are several along the west and south- west coast of the parish. Four miles from this coast to the west- ward lies Vallay, likewise an island at high water, and separated from the shore by a spacious strand of nearly two miles, which is dry within two hours of high water, and at low neap-tides is not covered by the sea. It is two miles long, and about a quarter of a mile broad ; nearly the whole of it sandy. It is beautiful in pasture, and fer- tile in crops when the summer is rainy, but produces very little of either when that season is dry. The next island is Husker, al- ready mentioned. The islands of Kirkebost and Illeray stretch along the west coast, both insulated only at high water. The latter is aboutfour miles long ; the former, or Kirkebost, is a mile long, but of no great breadth. This island was at one time of considerable value. It is composed of the fine sand already described, and being exposed to the western gales, a great part of it was literally blown away, and the sea now occupies fields which formerly produced fine crops of bear or barley. This destruction took place before a process now practised to obviate such a misfortune was known, to which we shall in the proper place advert. Along the south-west coast, the strand, dividing North Uist from 16*4 INVKRNKSS-SHIttE. Benbecula, is studded with a great cluster of islands of various Sizes. Grimisay, the largest of these, formerly considered of little value, now supports 40 families. At the southernmost point of North Uist is the island of Ronay, which at one time was of little^value, but is now improved by culture, and considered one of the most valuable gratings in the parish. Besides those described, there are three islands or large rocks which lie opposite the west coast, and which, from time immemo- rial, have been attached to the farms opposite to them, in various divisions. These are still retained possession of, not for their pas- ture, — for pasture there is none, — but for the seals they pro- duce. In the proper season, under certain regulations, a boat is sent to each rock, the crew being furnished with large clubs, which they use dexterously. When successful, the division is made according to ancient rule, with scarcely a murmur or dispute.^ The proprietor is entitled to four, and the minister to one seal* This the latter receives not as a tithe, but because the glebe compre- hends a part of a farm which is entitled to a share of the rock. There are a great number of islands in the inlets of the sea ; and also in the fresh-water lakes. The larger and more important islands in the latter have become the principaVresort of the red deer. Diseases. — Typhus fever, formerly so fatal, is now hardly known. This may undoubtedly be ascribed to the change in the habitations of the people, which took place in consequence of the lotting system. Before this system was introduced, the whole houses on a farm, to the number of from 20 to 60, were crowded and huddled together in a manner most unfriendly to cleanliness ; but now, every small tenant has his cottage on his own croft, each at some distance from his neighbour's. The climatei notwithstanding, cannot be said to be unhealthy, and, though hu- mid, less rain falls here than in Skye, where the exceedingly high mountains attract the clouds with a force conveying them over and beyond this comparatively flat country. Hydrography. — We have stated that there are numerous fresh water lakes of considerable extent; with some of these the sea communicates at high tides. They are inhabited by a few salmon and trout of various kinds, and of good quality and flavour. Though there are no fresh water streams deserving the name of river, there are some inlets of the sea of great strength and rapi- dity. Over three of these, wooden bridges have been erected, which have immensely shortened the line of road. NORTH UIST. 165 Geology, — The chief rock in this parish is the stratified species called gneiss. Intermingled with this interesting primitive depo- sit, other rocks occur more or less abundantly in beds, veins, &c. We trust, that, ere long, some one competent will be induced to visit us, and examine the numerous interesting geological arrange- ments of our district. Zoology. — The variety of aquatic birds along the coast, and in the innumerable islands of the fresh water lakes, is numerous be- yond description : there, thousands of the duQk tribe build their nests and hatch their young. Of these the largest and most beau- tiful is the eider-duck, valuable more for its feathers than flesh, the flavour of which is coarse, fishy, and rank. The male is ele- gantly streaked with white along the sides, and the other part is a dusky brown, the last being the prevailing colour of the female. This kind, though now numerous, was unknown, I am informed, not many years ago. Besides those that rear their young on our shores, vast numbers emigrate and winter with us, such as the widgeon and many others. Swans, too, annually pay us a visit, and by their early or late appearance, the natives anticipate a severe or mild winter. The gray wild geese are inhabitants of, and hatch in, the islands and along the shores of the fresh water lakes ; whence in August, they come to the cultivated plains, in flocks of five and six hundred, and attack the barley fields. To obviate their destructive attacks, fires are lighted, clappers driven by the jwind are erected, and some other devices used to scare them away. In winter, they are joined by innumerable flocks of the barnacle goose, and both are seen in flocks of incredible numbers. The green plovers in large flocks are here for the whole year^ and also the curlew. The May fowls, a species of curlew, pay us a visit, and remain with us during that month. Moorfowl, snipe, and woodcock are inhabitants of our hills and moors, and pigeons of our caves ; so that to the sportsmen there is presented a great variety of amuse- ment, at all seasons of the year. To these may be added other animals, in compassing the destruction of which, the sportsman seems to enjoy no small delight. Of these, along the shore are the otter and the seal; and in the larger islands on the fresh wafer lakes so often mentioned, is a considerable number of red-deer. The mode of stalking the last is so peculiar that we are tempted briefly to describe it. The sportsmen ren- dezvous at a place previously fixed on, and each with an attend- 1G6 INVERNESS-SHIRE. ant is appointed to a pass along the lakes, which he cautiously approaches, and when all are presumed to be at their stations, an- other party, with a small boat provided for the purpose, come up as quietly as possible. The deer, scared from their fastnesses in the islands,' make for some of the passes, and it very rarely hap- pens that a chance of a good shot is not afforded to some one or more of the sportsmen concealed under the cover of the heather. The black-cattle, sheep, and horses, which formerly were bred here, like those throughout the Long Island, were small, and a very great proportion of the sheep still reared are the indigenous breed, and of very diminutive size. Their numbers are considerable, but they never thrive so as to enable their possessors to sell or export any of them beyond the island. Their mutton is deliciously fine-fla- voured ; their quantity of wool, though very fine, is exceeding small, each fleece being from one and a-half to two pounds in weight Stocking with sheep has been introduced lately in a few favour- able situations, and on a limited scale ; and they appear to answer well. All the sheep exported or sold from the parish, do not exceed from six to seven hundred. The breed of black-cattle has been immensely improved, within the last twenty years, by the introduction of superior Highland cattle and bulls from various quarters, at an enormous expense ; and in consequence, there are some stocks which yield to none in the Highlands, in point of united symmetry and weight. The cattle of the small tenants, too, are on a scale of rapid improvement, in consequence of the liberal and wise measure which the proprietor some years ago commenced, and still continues, of giving premiums annually for the best hulls exhibited by the small tenant farms. There can be no doubt, that, by a similar regulation and encou- ragement, the small breed of sheep would be rendered more va- luable, and would amply compensate for the necessary outlay. The horses used by the tacksmen are of equal size and value as those kept for similar purposes in the south of Scotland ; and in general, the horses of the small tenants are of a larger and bet- ter description than formerly. We have already mentioned that the lakes are stocked with trout. In some of them with which the sea communicates, sythe and some other fish are found of large size and of fine quality, and partaking in some degree of the flavour of fresh water trout The inlets of the sea are not very productive of many varieties offish. On the east side are some good red or rock cod, and on the west, along the fords- NORTH UI8T. ^67 or channels of the strands, and on the adjacent shallows without, are very fine large flounder, little inferior to turbot. The great re- source for sustenance, particularly in a season of scarcity, is the cockle — a shell-fish of no large dimension, which is found in inex- haustible abundance on the strands, where, on the retiring of the tide, hundreds of people are seen collecting them. They are an ex- cellent and nutritious food ; made up into stews with some milk and with a little bread, they form a principal part of the diet of poor people in seasons of scarcity. As an article of luxury, they form excellent sauce with fish of every description, and used raw they are little inferior to oysters. Besides this valuable shell-fish, there are razor- fish, spout-fish, welks, muscles, limpets, and in many parts lobsters, crabs, clams, &c. The cockle, besides its importance as an article of food, is of importance in some manufactures. Its shell when burned forms the best lime known. In strength, it is superior to any other, and in whiteness it vies with snow itself. In a manufacture of kelp in- to soda, lately erected by Lord Macdonald at Lochmaddy, the cockle shell is used in place of lime. The quantity required for this, and used for lime in this parish, cannot be of less value than L.200 a-year. Botany. — It is not our intention to enter into any lengthened de- tail on this subject, but merely to mention a few grassies and plants which are converted to the immediate benefit of the inhabitants. Amongst these the most generally and beneficially used is the bent, a grass which grows in the driest sand-banks to the height of from one to two feet It is very tough, and in some degree elastic, and is used by the poor people for many purposes, such as mounting for their crooksaddlesand creels, sacks for their corn, meal, &c. It makes excellent mats for doors and passages. But its principal use is, to plant it for the suppression of sand drift. The wild spinage and wild carrot are used for food ; the tormentil root, for barking leather ; the rue water-lily root and crottle, for dyes ; the hemlock, foxglove, tussilago, wild thyme, and tre- foil are used medicinally ; the black and red slock or laver, found on the rocks, makes excellent soup ; and dulse is used in a raw and boiled state. Here we may mention also, a kind of earth found in the moors, used for cleaning metals, called moine nan umud^ and an earth termed dubhoch^ used with other mixtures for dyes. The insect most injurious to vegetation, and particularly de- 168 INVERNESS-SHIRE. structive to corn at an early stage of its growth, is the grub-worm^ against whose inroads no effectual means have been devised. At some remote period, woods undoubtedly had extensively grown in this quarter, although now no trees naturally grow in it. That this had been the case is evident from the fact, that the roots of trees are found in peat mosses, and, what is still more remarkable and unaccountable, they are found under high* water mark, nearly as low as the water recedes at spring-tides, im- bedded in black soil or moss, exposed to view in places where the sand, by the action of the sea, has been washed away. This is par* ticularly the case, on no limited scale, near my residence. From this circumstance it may be inferred, that the land must have largely extended its bounds beyond its present limits. This is still less doubtful from the f^ict, that several miles from the shore, moss is taken up on the flukes of anchors, where, covered by the sea, it could never have grown. But we must repress speculate ing and return to statistics. An opinion had long prevailed that the sea-air prevents the growth of trees. This, in fact, is not the cause, but the want of shelter. Were the experinient fairly tried, there is not the shadow of a doubt that trees would grow in shel- tered situations, and from these the plantations might be extended. This was put to the test some years ago by a gentleman, who was then factor of North Uist. He planted a corner of a field in a well sheltered situation with trees, which have grown and continued to thrive beyond expectation ; and the black thorn hedge has been planted by another, which is flourishing. Neither of these is at a distance from the sea. II. — Civil History. Amongst the remarkable characters connected, but not exclu- sively, with this parish, we may notice a class of persons who have passed away for ever, with the age and habits which encouraged and fostered them. In the last generation, every farm and hamlet possessed its oral recorder of tale and song. The pastoral habits of the inhabitants led them to seek recreation in listening to, 4ind in rehearsing the tales of other times ; and the senackie and the bard were held in high esteem. As — to use the language of commerce — demand produces supply, so a number of bards arose, possessing various grades of genius and excellence. Amongst tlie!>e was John MacCodrum, who lived in the last generation — a man in low circumstances, born and brought up in this parish, and wini scarcely ever went beyond its bounds — who possessed NORTH UI8T. 169 a poetical genius of the highest order ; and composed in the Gae« lie language, the only one he understood, poems and songs on va- rious subjects ; some solemnly sublime, some pleasantly humo- rous, some bitterly sarcastic* Such is the rapid change that has taken place in the habits of the people, that productions such as his, which in former ages would have been repeated with delight, and handed down through numberless successive generations, are already, since they are not in print, greatly forgotten, and in a few years more will be entirely lost Macpherson seized on the last moments it was possible to pre- serve the sublime and majestic Ossian from passing to forgetfulness. LfOrd Macdonald, the representative of the great Macdonald of the Isles, is sole proprietor of this parish. His ancestors posses- sed it almost from time immemorial, at least for centuries back ; indeed, sinc^ the time of the great Somerled, Rex Insularum^ the founder of the clan. And in ages gone by, some of the chiefs, and always several near branches of the family, lived in it. Parochial Reffisters.-^Ho parochial registers were kept till late- ly in this parish ; and even now, the entries from the more remote districts of it are irregular. Antiquities.-'^In some of the burying-grounds, particularly in the island of Husker, (anciently named lollen na Moinoch^ or /«- land of the Monhs^) are foimd several crosses rudely cut on stone. There are also two stones or obelisks of large size ; the one at Balmartin, near the centre of the parish, named Caracrom, re- garding the erection of which tradition is totally silent. The other is opposite the island of Kirkebost. It is called clack whore a chi, and is said by universal tradition to have been erect- ed to commemorate a battle of the same name ; but when or by whom fought, I have not been able to ascertain. At Carinish, the south-west point of the parish, there is a ruin of large dimen-* sions, called Teampul na Trianaide^ or Trinity Temple, which, by the tradition of the inhabitants, is said to have been built by the daughter of Lorn, when she was separated from the Lord of the Isles. I have in my possession a document, which is a copy of what is said to have been the original charter of dedication of some lands in Uist to the Trinity and blessed Virgin Mary Church at Carinish, by Godfrey Macdonald, Lord of Uist, in the year 1389. This, should it be genuine, does not contradict the tradition. Near the tops of two hills in this parish are immense beaps of stones ; some of them of large size. They are called barps, a JNVERNISS. M 170 INVKllNESS-SHIRE. i word evidently not of Celtic origin. It may probably ha?e been derived from barrow, a heap or mound. Be this as it may, the uses for which these immense piles were, with Herculean labour, put together, are now unfortunately unknown ; and, in the absence of all authentic record and tradition, conjecture, at best uncertain, is all that can be substituted. Some, from tneir formation, suppose them to have been Druidical circles or Temples. Some, that they were towers forming places of defence and protection at a very early period, against the incursions of enemies, while they likewise served the purpose of beacons to give warning to the inhabitants of the approach of danger. This conjec- ture is in some degree supported by the circumstance, that above Roudh in Harris, and also in Barra, there are similar constructions, but of less magnitude, and all so uninterruptedly in a line, that a beacon-fire lighted in any of them would be seen by all. It is, however, more probable that they were the tumuli of eminent war- riors. Modem Buildings. — Other remarkable buildings in this parish are the Danish forts or castles. They are generally built of a circular form, in the middle of fresh water lakes of no great depth, and accessible from the shore by causeways, some now, and for- merly most probably all, above the level of the water. Many of them have outer protecting walls. These duns, as they are called, are about twenty in number. They were occupied as places of residence by the more powerful families, after the Danes ceased to infest these parts. One of them was built in Lochscolpeg, a distance of four mile^ from the parish church. Donald Herroch, (so called from his having been born in Harris,) a descendant of one of the Lords of the Isles, and himself a very powerful individual, occupied this dun as his place of residence.* * The tradition of his tragical end is confirmed by a great variety of cireumitaD- ces. Some of his relatives, jealous of his influence and power, and detirout to ttiM upon both, along with his property, fell upon the following expedient to oompua hit destruction : —They employed an accomplice of the name or Paul, a low mean wr«Ccli| to put their intention into execution. On an occasion when many of hU rdaikmi and pretended friends went to visit him, — after enjoying for some daya bis hospitali- ty, they proposed various athletic exercises for pastime. Amongst these, it was ng^ gested to try who should leap highest, they knowing that Donald Herroch^ ali a mth and agility would carry the palm of victory. Paul had previously prepared a akraiif leathern thong, with a running loop or noose, right over the place where the leap was to be taken, and at such a height that it might easily be reacbccL He was himaair in the next apartment, — which was divided by a wooden partition from that in whiA the company were collected, — holding the end of the thong. Another aecompliiMP was employed to give the signal when Donald Herroch leaped ; and Paul, at tha ifwmtwt Donald's head was within the loop, drew the thong with savage determinatioii, and NORTH UI8T. 171 Last summer some silver coins were found in a sand hillock, in the island of Boreray. They are various coins of James VI. and are in an excellent state of preservation. The greater number of the tacksmen occupy comfortable and commodious slated houses; and many of the farm-offices are of the same description. Besides these, the church, three mills, and three public houses are slated. The cottages occupied by the small tenants are, in general, annually .thatched, at a great sacrifice of time and labour. III. — Population. The population in 1801 was 3010 1811 8863 1821 4971 1831 4603 The diminution has been caused by upwards of 600 souls hav- ing emigrated in the year 1828 to British America ; and, though a few have since followed their friends across the Atlantic, the population is still excessive. It is now considerably greater than it was in 1831. The census of that year we shall keep in view, in the following statements. The average of the various ages of the population is as follows : Males under 15 years of age, 911— females, 988 => 1899 betwixt 15 and 30, 588 do. 625 » 1213 30 and 50, 379 do. 453 = 832 50 and 70, 236 do. 254 » 490 above 70, - . 83 do. 86 = 169 2197 2406 » 4603 strangled him. From this circumstance he was called Paul na ilclltdh^ or Paul of the Thong. His life was short. Revenge, which, in barbarous ages, takes a summary mode of inflicting punishment, soon overtook him. In a few weeks thereafter, while Paul was building a stack of corn, from the top of it he observed, at some distance, a person of large stature rapidly moving towards the place. He hastily asked those about him from what airt tlie wind had blown thetlay before. On being informed it was from the cast, and a leading wind from Skyc, he exclaimed, the person at a distance must be Angus, commonly called Atmas Fionn or Fair, son of Donald Hcr- roch, who possessed some part of Troternish in Skyc, and that it was time for him to look to his own safety. At full speed, he fled to the church sanctuary at Kilmuir, a distance of about three miles. Angus saw him at a distance, and, following him with ■till greater speed, just as he was crossing a small rivulet that bounded the sanc- tuary on the south side, bent his unerring bow, and the arrow pierced Paul in the heel. He fell ; his legs in the water and the rest of his body on the land within the aanctuary, which to this day is called Shead PhoU, or PauPt Field, lliis field forms part of Uie glebe of this parish. It is immediately adjoining the church ; and the scene is pointed out about 100 yards from it, A blind man, a Chomhali of Donald Herroch, is said to have taken a brutal and indescribable revenge on Paul, which put an end to his lingering life. The memory of Paul na Hettidh is still held in universal detestation, while the de- icendants of Donald Herroch have since bis time possessed and still possess large fiinns in North Uist. Lochscolpeg, in which is, or rather was the dun, where Do- nald Herroch was so barbarously sacrificed to the evil passion of avarice, wi^ some years ago drained by a gentleman living in its immediate neighbourhood; and on the side of the dun he has erected a small octagonal b^Wd'ing. 1/2 INVERNESS-SIIIRE. Of those above ninety, there are 2 ; and last month one man died aged 1 02 years. It has been already stated, that Lord Macdonald is sole proprie- tor of the parish. He does not reside in it. The number of fa^ milies in the parish is 833. Inhabited houses are 797 ; uninha- bited and now building, 17. Number of fatuous persons, 9; dumb, 2; deaf, 2; deaf and dumb, 1. There are 3 blind, two of whom support themselves by their own industry. Language^ 8fc. — The language spoken is the Gaelic, which the people speak with uncommon fluency and elegance. One- fifth of the whole population above the age of twelve years understand and speak English. Such of them as arc in the habit of going to the south of Scotland for trading or for working, are fond of inter- larding some English or Scotch phrases with their own beauti- tiful and expressive language. This bad taste is confined to so limited a number, that it has but slightly affected the general cha^ racter of their native tongue. There are only five individuals in the parish who do not understand the Gaelic, and some of these have made considerable progress in its attainment It was for- merly noticed, that taste for song is, among the lower order, fast on the decline; so also is that for music, of which they were remark- ably fond. At funeral processions, which had been, and still are conducted with remarkable regularity, the pipes, in strains of pathos and melody, followed the bier, playing slow, plaintive dirges, com- posed for and used only on such occasions. On arriving near the church-yard, the music ceased, and the procession formed a line on each side, between which the corpse was carried to its nar- row abode. But the custom of accompanying burials with musicy is now almost universally abandoned ; and there are some indivi- duals — doubtless with good intentions — whose zeal has not been wanting to put down the practice. The people are remarkably cleanly in their habits. Though far from woods, their houses in general are more capacious, and in every respect of a better description than the habitations of many of the same class in more favoured situations. Many of these have their chimneys and their glass windows, and their beds boxed with timber at the back, on the top, and at both ends; and all sweep and sand their earthen floors daily. They dress, too, in a style superior to that of most of the islanders ; and are even fastidious in this respect, and will not appear in public places without being well dressed. The men dress in kelt or cloth of NORTH UIST. 173 native manufacture ; and the women are seen to most advantage in- beautiful strips and tartans of their own manufacture. Of late years, however, the cottons and calicoes of Glasgow, in se- veral instances, have superseded the native female dress ; and the straw bonnets have pretty extensively overcome the neat head-dress, the hair kept together by a single comb, and preserved from con- fusion by a slight kerchief. Neither of these innovations are im- provements, but the reverse. The ordinary food is potatoes and barley-bread, which are almost exclusively used among the poorer class. The small tenants of a better class use, in addition, some milk in summer, and mutton and beef in winter. The gentlemen farmers live genteely, comfortably, and economi- cally. The peasantry enjoy a considerable share of happiness. Their chief earthly anxiety is to pay their rents, retain their small possessions, and keep their families about them. The gentlemen are well educated, and add to their other comforts many of the men* tal enjoyments which the overflovnng press of the age so extensively furnishes. The common people are sober, industrious, sagacious, and acute, full of curiosity and exceedingly inquisitive. They are insinuating and even artful in their address, obliging and peace- . able in their dispositions. Those of them in more comfortable cir- cumstances are honest ; but amongst the poorer and more ignorant, some are addicted to petty theft. It is amongst the last class alone, that this vice and other immoralities more frequently are found. The greater part of the better sort are most regular in their at- ' tendance on religious worship and ordinances, and correct in their moral habits. In this last respect, the gentlemen farmers set a praiseworthy example, which undoubtedly has a happy influence. ^ Smuggling has for years been completely abolished, not so much by the exertions of the excise, as by the wise and determined mea- sures adopted by the proprietor and his managers for the purpose. IV. — Industry. The number of families employed in agriculture, 602 ; in trade, manufactures, &c 69 ; retail trade and handicraft, 103; wholesale capitalists, professional persons, &c. 18; other males, 39; male servants upwards of twenty years of age, 92; male servants under twenty, 29 ; female serv^ts, 111. Agriculture. — The number of acres (Scotch measure) in the parish which are cultivated or otxtu fcionally in tillage, . . • 1I»200 The number of acres constantly in pasture, . • 42,350 In sand drift, • • . 1,668 174 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Properly speaking, there is no undivided common, as the whole parish is the property of one individual. Such parts of the moor as have hitherto Been grazed or held in common by the tenants of several farms, are now about to be divided, and its own share given respectively to each farm. Wages. — The rate of labour for farm-servants for the year is from L.5 to L. 9 Sterling, with victuals ; and grieves or overseers receive from L.10 to L.15, with victuals. Country artisans from 2s. to -Ss. 6d. per day, without victuals. Masons and carpenters, about 3s. per day, without victuals. Husbandry. — The number of black-cattle kept by the small te- nants is by far too great, and a less number well kept would un- doubtedly be more profitable. This remark applies with greater force to the number of horses kept. The evil arises partly from the difficulty of breaking off old habits ; but principally from the small subdivisions into which the allotments are reduced, the cause of which will be afterwards specified. Measures are now being tiiken by the proprietor to remedy the evil, in respect to both. On the character of the husbandry pursued much might be said> if the limits permitted. The occupiers of land may be divided into two classes, 1. The gentlemen farmers or tacksmen, each of whom possesses one or more farms ; and 2. The small tenants, who for- merly occupied their farms conjunctly, the arable land possessed in run-rig, or subject to annual division amongst themselves. In the year 1 81 4, a better system was adopted. The arable lands were measured and lotted ; and each small tenant put in possession of his own croft or share, while the grazing was left still in com- mon. This naturally gave a powerful impetus to improvement. The industrious was no longer clogged by the carelessness or sloth of his neighbour, nor by the consideration that the labour of the former would benefit the latter. On the contrary, the slothfiil was spurred on by the example and never-failing reward of the industrious. Accordingly, larger and better crops have been raised since. The manure principally used is the sea-ware (Alga marina Jf cast in considerable quantities on many parts of the western shores ; and where that is not the case, a certain quan- tity of the same weed cut from the rocks. I formerly took no* tice that the small belt subjected to cropping on the west coast is rendered productive by the sand that has been deposited on it. In fact, the most productive part is nothing more than moss mixed with and decomposed by the limy particles of the NORTH UIST. 175 sand. The process nature thus pointed out was reonarked by some individuals of sagacity and observation, who persuaded a few to follow this guide. In consequence, along some of the shores where the moss was washed by the sea, a certain quantity of sand was led to the moss in the immediate neighbourhood, which pro- duced crops in most instances sufficient to remunerate the trou- ble and expense ; and which renders what was before of small value, of permanent benefit as pastufe ground. This improvement, by due encouragement, might be carried on to an immense extent by what we call draining and sanding moss. It is exceedingly facilitated by the cross roads, which almost through every farm have of late years been made. Some of the tacksmen carry on a system of husbandry, in every department of farming and grazing, which cannot sufier by a com- parison with the best managed farms in the south of Scotland, though labouring under many local and other disadvantages. Recovering lands from the sea by embankments has been carried on by various spirited individuals to a considerable extent, to the amount of about eighty-six Scotch acres ; and lakes have been drained, principally by the same persons, to about the same quantity. These improvements might be carried on extensively and advantageously in many parts of this parish. Another improvement, which has been tried in other parts as well as in this quarter, is what is generally termed the planting of stones in the sea for the growth of sea-ware. A great and important improvement also has been for some years extensively carried on, in the suppression of the sand-drift ; an evil formerly of great magnitude in these parts. The suppression of sand-drift is effectually secured, by sloping the sand-banks, and covering them with sward from the neighbourhood ; they thus be- come firm, and produce grasses of the same kind as in the situ- ations whence they were taken. Bent is also employed successfully for the same purpose. Very near the sea shore, and on extensive sand- flats, the planting of bent is the best method hitherto discover- ed for the suppression of sand- drift. Leases. — The tacksmen only have leases in this parish. Their duration varies from sev^n to fourteen years ; a period greatly too short to remunerate for the necessary outlay in making permanent and substantial improvements. Nevertheless, a number of the tacks- men on this property, have made most substantial and permanent im- provements, under the conviction, and in the unbounded confidence justly reposed in the justice and generosity in the Noble family of 176 INVERNESS-SHIRE. whom they hold, that they would be remunerated by long posses- sion, or by a pecuniary consideration. The small tenants have no leases at all. But amongst them, there are few instances in which they are removed from their possessions without a just cause ; and this unwillingness to remove them has powerfully promoted an ex- cess of population, and the subdivisions of crofts, contrary to the established regulations. To them, various encouragements for making improvements are held out Premiums are annually given by the proprietor to the small or conjoint tenants who shall bring a certain quantity of moss or other land under culture. They are supplied with tools for making cross-roads through or along their farms from the shores to the moss ; and accordingly, there are few parishes, if any, in which roads, the 6rst means to every improve- ment, have been, for a few years back, so extensively carried on. Far removed firom the seats of manufactures and constant employ- ment, a great part of the time of these small tenantry b wast- ed, which might be more profitably applied. Early marriages, which have become habitual for ages back, increase the popula- tion in a ratio almost incredible ; and the croft or lots, originally too small for the first possessor, is necessarily subdivided amongst the married sons and daughters, and become totally unfitto supply them with the comfortable or even the necessary means of subsistence. In these circumstances, some means for their profitable employ- ment must be devised, or emigration encouraged ; otherwise, in years of scarcity, they must fall an intolerable burden on the pro- prietors, and those in better circumstances, or have recourse for relief to a generous public. Here it may be remarked, that the changes which have taken place in the incomes of the proprietor of this parish and other proprietors in the West Highlands, aris- ing from the low prices of kelp, in consequence of the removal of protecting duties from other articles that come in competition with it, — put it entirely out of the power of the proprietor, how generous and how liberal soever he may be, to extend relief when so largely required. The clear proceeds from the kelp alone in this parish,jn 1812, after deducting every expense, exceeded L. 14,000; and for several years thereafter, it came little short of that sum. Now it puts little into the pocket of the proprietor, and in many; instances is only manufactured to enable the crofters to I^ay for their small possessions. In these circumstances, is it not reasonable' to expect that Government, who reduced the income of the proprietor from L. 17,500 to L. 8500, the present rental, by NORTH UIST. 177 the change of law, and abolition of duties, is bound, if not to give a compensation, at least to give grants of lands, and afford facili« ties of locating on them, to an interesting class of people, at once moral, peaceable, loyal, and industrious, necessarily getting year by year less employment? While it is a source of sincere sa- tisfaction to narrate the well directed exertions of the greater num* ber of the large farmers, truth demands that some at least of the disadvantages and discouragements under which they labour should likewise be stated. Formerly, all the kelp ware on their farms was allowed them with their other possessions. For some time back, they have been deprived of this advantage. This, perhaps, from the pre- sent low price of kelp, is no great pecuniary loss. But another evil attends it. The small tenants are sent every summer to the farms possessed by tacksmen, to manufacture the kelp, with a train of horses, which eat up a large proportion of the summer grass. Not only is this in itself a grievous loss, but it renders it impossible to divide and manage the pasture in a systematic and profitable manner. The number of horses might be reduced, and in many instances they might entirely be dispensed with. Measures are now about to be adopted for the removal of this grievance. Fisheries. — The ordinary routine of employment, in which the generality of the people are engaged, precludes them from en- gaging in fisheries. In the winter season, the sea around the island is too boisterous to admit of their carrying on the fisheries, with any degree of regularity or success. During the summer ^eason, the most proper for this employment, much the greater part of the population is occupied in the manufacture of kelp, ia providing fuel, in cutting and securing crops. And, though many might be spared from these occupations, they want the necessary capital and skill to attempt to prosecute the fisheries with any reasonable prospect of success. Thus, though surrounded by the sea and its hidden resources of wealth, we can scarcely be said to have fishing. That large shoals of herrings and other fish annu- ally visit this coast, and ling and cod may be found in the proper season in abundance around it, which might be turned to profit- able account, can hardly admit of a doubt. Under this impres- sion, a few patriotic individuals attempted to form liberal subscrip- tions, in order fairly to try whether this might not be made avail- able for the benefit of the country ; but the limited number wil- ling to make the experiment, and the smailness of the sum as yet subscribed, render the r^ult doubtful. ,1500 900 2400 5040 400 200 178 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Produce. — The following is an estimate of the average amount of raw produce : 500 small tenants, 4 cows each, or 2000 at an aterage of 15s. per cow I « • • a « Tacksmen have in all about 900 cows, at L. 8 each, ?)000 bolls of grain, at 16s. .... Pototocs, &c, 50,400, at 2s., Sheep, including all kinds, .... xiay, • • • • • * U 10,440 Kelp Manufacture. — The only branch of general manufacture carried on, is that of kelp. At an average, there are 400 femi« lies employed in this, from the beginning of June to the 1st of August. In wet weather, no progress can be made in it ; and dur-^ ing the dry weather they work hard, sometimes fifteen hours. The amount earned by each individual, during that period, is smalL Yet, as all the family work together, the sum becomes considerable, ave- raging about L.4 to each family. This work enables the class of te- nants to exist. With small possessions, without fisheries, with few cattle, and these of little value, if deprived of this resource, they are unable to meet their rents. Nuv'ffation. — There are eleven deckcd-vessels, varying from twenty to sixty tons each. The largest and some of the smaller were built in the parish. With the exception of the Packet, they are all employed in the local and coasting trade. V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market-town in this parish, and the nearest for ge- ral beneficial purposes are those of Greenock and Glasgow, distant by sea about 200 miles. With the latter the principal intercourse is held, for supplying this part of the country with almost all the goods and groceries imported ; while the exports to these places to meet them are so scanty, as to be hardly worth mentioning, with the exception, indeed, of kelp, which is wholly for the benefit of the proprietor. Were a direct communication opened by meaDs of steam, the case would be far otherwise, as I shall show before concluding. At Lochmaddy there was, for many years, a post-ofiice, under the name of Carinish : it is now converted into a sub-office to Dun- vegan. It is difficult to assign any good reason for this. From Lochmaddy a packet of sixty tons burthen sails, when the weather permits, twice a week to Dunvegan, the nearest safe harbour in Skye. Letters and papers are received in this place, in the surpris- ingly short time of four days from Edinburgh. This packet is NORTH UIST. 1 79 supported by an assessment, which bears heavily upon all classes of the inhabitants, together with a small sum allowed by the post- oflSce. The internal communication has been immensely improved, with- in the last twenty years. There are now no less than eighty miles o fgood roads. 0{ these nearly 6fly miles have been made by the statute labour, and a heavy assessment on the occupiers of the land. With the extension of roads, the introduction of carts has kept pace; of which there are, at this moment, in the parish 180. From the rapid increase which has taken place in regard to this excellent improvement, it may be sanguinely anticipated that at no distant period every person able to keep a horse will have his cart also. The rootle^ too, and the clumsy plough de- scribed in the former statistics, have given way to the modem plough. The greater number of the tacksmen use Morton's iron plough ; and every small tenant has a plough of a lighter descrip- tion, quite sufficient for his purposes. Including all, there are nearly as many ploughs as are families in this parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the centre of the parish, about fifteen miles from each extremity. The densest part of the population is within four miles on either side. It was built in the year 1764, when the number of inhabi- tants was comparatively small. It affords accommodation for no more than 400, being about one- fifth of the population within reach of it. There are no seat rents paid. In this parish, there has never been a manse. The minister always occupied a farm-house, with a farm. The glebe is worth about L.40 Sterling. The proprietor pays L. 61, 13s. 4d. of the stipend, with L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The balance of L.88^ 6s. 8d. is paid from the Exchequer, to make up the stipend to L. 150. In the northern section of the parish, there is a Government church, which was finished in 1828. In the south part of the parish or district of Carinish, is placed a missionary minister, supported by the Committee for Managing the Royal Bounty. It is hoped that, at no distant period, this district will likewise form a separate pa- rish, with endowment for church and school. Excluding the Go- vernment church parish from the calculation, the average number of communicants is 490. This number includes the Mission dis- trict Divine service is well attended at all the places of public worship. The population is wholly Presbyterian, with the excep- tion of two Episcopalian families, and two individuals Roman Ca- ISO INVERNESS-SHIUK. tholics. The people have very little money circulating amongst them, and in consequence the contributions for religious purposes are very limited. The collections for charitable objects are of small amount. To make up for this deficiency, the people are remarkably attentive and charitable to the poor; and the pro- prietor allows L. 60, from the multure of the mills, to the most destitute. This private charity is almost the sole resource^ from which the poor and destitute are supported. Education. — There are nine schools of various descriptions in the parish : — One parochial, with a salary of L. 34, 4s. 4^d., and about L. 16 annually of school fees, of which only L.5 is paid in cash ; the rest in produce. Two schools, supported by the General Assembly's Education Committee, of which one is in the Mission district, and the other within the bounds of the Government church. Each of these has a salary of L. 25, and the school fees may amount to L. 5, the greater part of which is paid not in cash, but in produce. One school supported by the Glas- gow Auxiliary Gaelic School Society ; one at Carinish, supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge; two other schools by that Society ; and four by the Gaelic School Society. Besides the above, there are two schools for females ; and pri- vate tutors are kept by some families. The people are most anxious to confer the blessings of instruction on their children. But six additional permanent schools are still required. The only inlets to general knowledge are the libraries attached to the Ge- neral Assembly schools. Fairs. — There are only two fairs held annually in this parish. One about the middle of July, the other the beginning of Sep- tember, — both for the sale of black-cattle and horses. Inns. — The inns in the parish are four. One at the packet station at Lochmaddy, another at Carinish, the opposite extre- mity of the island, and the other two at proper intermediate dis- tances along the road. Fuel, — The fuel universally used is peats, which in quality are far superior to any in the Highlands. Miscellaneous Observations. We add a few observations on what appears best calculated at present, to promote the industry, and advance the temporal com- fort of the inhabitants. First, it is necessary to find some proper outlet for the excess of the population by emigration, and thus to increase the quantity of NORTH UIST. 181 land possessed by each family. At present, it is notorious, that there are no less than 390 families not paying rents, but living chiefly on the produce of small spots of potato ground given them by some of their neighbours and relatives. Subdivisions of this kind, from the purest motives of humanity, will and must take place. To force the people away, has been entirely repug- nant to the humane feelings of the Noble proprietor and his ma- nagers. A few years ago, when it was necessary to remove some of the inhabitants from a place where they could hardly earn a scanty subsistence. Lord Macdonald very generously afforded them assistance to emigrate to British America* Steam navigation, judiciously arranged and properly conducted, would in some degree supply the wan^ of local manufactures, by affording facilities of export, and of communication with the south. No regular steam-boats are employed to ply to this quarter : and the failure of the attempts that have been made to establish them has arisen from the circumstance, that the boats were not well fit- ted for the kind of trade proper to the district. They should have been adapted to convey cattle, &c instead of being splendidly fit- ted up for passengers. In conjunction with the projected plan of sending cattle and other produce from the West Highlands to the Liverpool and Glasgow markets, were a steam-boat of proper construction for the conveyance of cattle established, to ply during the season alter- nately, along the west side of Skye, with the Long Island coast, and the east side of Skye with the opposite part of the main- land, — no doubt can exist that the speculation would succeed, and would prove extensively beneficial to these remote quarters. The great variety of other raw produce that might be exported, and the goods of various kinds required for the overgrown popu- lation, would, in a short time, create a trade which must inevi« tably spur the industry, and promote the comfort of all classes of the inhabitants. 1837. PARISH OF SOUTH UIST. PRESBYTKRY OF UIST, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. RODERICK MACLEAN, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History, Boundaries, Extent, Sfc — South Uist is bounded on tbe north by a sound which separates it from North Uist, 2 miles broad, and which is dry at low water ; on the south, by the sound which se- parates it from the islands and parish of Barra, and which, in the narrowest part, is about 6 miles across ; on the west, by the At- lantic Ocean ; and on the east, by the Minch, which divides it from the island of Skye, and which is about 20 miles where narrowest, and 26 where broadest. Its length, from its boun- dary with North Uist to its southern extremity, including the island of Erisca, opposite to Barra, is 38 miles. Its breadth va- ries between 6 and 8 miles. Its superficies consists of about 137 square miles. This parish consists of three principal islands : but there are others of smaller dimensions, the largest of which is Wia, on the south-east side of Benbecula. The principal islands are, 1. Benbe- cula, on the north, 8 miles long and 8 miles broad, of a round form, and separated from South Uist, the largest island, by a small chan- nel half a mile broad in the narrowest part, dry at low water, but which at high water in springtides has a depth of about 2 fathoms in the deepest parts. 2. South Uist proper, 27 miles long, and at an average 7 miles broad. 3. Erisca, 3 miles long, and 1^ mile broad, separated from the largest island by a channel 2 miles broad. Topographical Appearances. — All the west side of the parish (Erisca excepted) is low, flat, and sandy ; and the east side moun- tainous, hilly, and mossy. The highest mountain in South Uistb named Heacle, Heacam-hall, or Hecla, supposed to be so named by the Danes, from Mount Hecia in Iceland, perhaps from a similarity in their figure or appearance. It is about 2500 feet above the level of the sea, and lies between Loch Skipport on the north, and Loch SOUTH UIST. 183 Eynort on the south, extending a length of about 8 miles. It is formed of three distinct heights, that in the middle being the lowest ; — the whole, when arrangements may be made for such purpose, together with the lands on the west side, adjoining there- to, being well adapted for an extensive sheep-walk. The whole mountain-range is still a common for pasturing the sheep of the small tenants in the neighbouring farms, who, but for this induU gence on the part of the prQprietor, would, in their present state of poverty and destitution, be wretchedly ill provided with cloth- ing. The range of hills north of Loch Skipport and south of Loch Eynort, varying in height between 1200 and 1300 feet, con- tain good pasture for black-cattle, horses, and sheep, and are at- tached to the different farms on the west side. The moss, ex- tending from the bottom of these mountains and hills to the arable part of the parish, is generally deep, and furnishes excellent peats for fuel. Once the surface is dry, and that the peats are stacked, they resist the rain ; and though the stacks are as broad above as below, and not thatched or covered with divot, as in Skye and the mainland, the peats keep dry, and make excellent fuel. The only cave in this parish worth mentioning, is that at Corodale, on the east side, between Loch Skipport and Loch Eynort, close by the sea, at the foot of a lofty mountain range. It is called the Prince's Cave, from the circumstance of Prince Charles Edward having, for some days, found shelter in it in summer 1746, from the pursuit of his enemies. Marshal Mac- donald, whose father followed the Pretender to France in that year from this parish, visited it in 1 826, and carried away some of the stones. The shore on the west side, as already mentioned, is sandy, with the exception of certain small rocky promontories, viz. Oron- say, near the sound of Barra ; Ardmile, about eight miles north of Oronsay ; Ardmichael, (where there is a burying place,) four miles north of Ardmile; and Ardivachar, eight miles north of the last men- tioned headland. The only headland on the east side is the Point of Ushinish, which projects about 1^ mile into the Minch. The east shore is all rocky ; and in most places where the rocks are not high or perpendicular, grow large quantities of sea-weed, used for kelp and manure ; but especially on the shores of the three lochs, viz. Loch Boisdale, Loch Eynort, and Loch Skipport, which are excellent harbours. Climate. — In this parish the air is generally mild and pure. In 184 INVERNESS-SHIRE. winter, when there are accounts of very heavy falls of snow through- out the kingdom, snow very seldom falls in great quantity, or con- tinues long on the ground ; mdeed, for the last twelve years, there has been very little snow or frost. The prevailing winds are south and south-west, which are almost always accompanied with rain. Polar lights have been observed more frequently, and under more extraordinary appearances during the last two years, than during the memory of the oldest persons. They sometimes ap- peared of a deep-red colour, extending farther south than they wero before observed by any person living, which gave occasion to the ignorant to say, that they prognosticate war and bloodshed. These appearances were always followed by rainy, windy, and coarse weather. It is matter of wonder to the people here, that the luminous meteor, called Will o' the Wisp, was never seen in this parish previous to the year 1812. Since then, it is seen very frequently every year. This circumstance has given rise to some supersti- tious ideas among the lower class. It is said amongst them, that a woman in Benbecula went at night to the sand-banks, to dig for some rue {Galium verumj) used for dyeing a red co- lour, against her husband's will ; that when she left her house, she said with an oath, she would bring some of it home, although she knew there was a regulation by the factor and magistrates prohibiting people to use it or dig for it, by reason that the sand-banks, upon being excavated, would be blown away with the wind. The woman never returned home, nor was her body found. It was shortly thereafter that the meteor was first seen ; and it is said that it is the ghost of the unfortunate and profane woman that appears in this shape. It is observed that the climate of this parish, though very rainy, is generally milder in winter, than that of the east and midland parts of Scotland ; although, in summer, it is not generally so warm and genial. Considering the very great number of lakes with which the parish abounds, and the inhabited parts being so flat and low, it is, on a superficial view, surprising how healthy the country is. But this may be accounted for from the prevalence of high winds, and the contiguity of the great Atlantic Ocean, which render the air more pure and salubrious than in inland parts of the kingdoDL The most prevalent distempers are, cholic, in- flammation, rheumatism, asthma, cough, dyspepsia, and nervous fevers. Poor living and weak food very generally bring on sto- SOUTH UIST. 185 mach compIaintS) enhaDced no doubt by tbe general and excessive use of tobacco, in every shape, when it can possibly be obtained. Notwithstanding this, there are many instances of longevity, be- tween 80 and 100 years. Hydrography. — There are not many good springs of water in this parish* The water is generally soft, and partakes of the quali- ty of the lakes by which the springs are surrounded. The water in the hilly parts is of a brown colour, being tinged by the moss through which it flows, but is found wholesome. It is pro- per to observe here, that a chain of lakes runs almost all the length of the parish. The largest, named Loch Bee, is about three miles in length, and a mile in breadth, being about two fa- thoms deep in the deepest parts. The sea enters this lake in spring-tides, so that it not only abounds in fine trout, but also in flounder and mullet, a most delicious fish, called in Gaelic, Jasg drimionrif which is not found in any other part of the parish. It is a sucking fish, with large scales, the stomach of which is like the gizzard of a common hen. The lake next in size to Loch Bee is named Loch Druidibeg, situated a little to the north of Heackle. It is very little inferior to the other in size, and furnishes a copi- ous stream of water to the principal mill in the parish. On this lake there are several small islets, on which there is plenty of gull, goose, and duck eggs found in the months of May and June, every year. These islets were, some years ago, much frequented by deer ; but there is none now to be seen in the whole parish but one bind, the rest having disappeared, and found their way to North Uist Besides these two lakes, there is an immense num- ber of smaller lakes on the west side, and in tbe moor of the three islands of which the parish is composed, especially the largest. There are only two streams in which salmon find their way from the lakes to the sea, and vice versa ; but the fishing is inconsidera- ble. The lakes in the moor abound in black trout of a watery, insipid taste ; but in most of the lakes on the west side, surround- ed by arable land, and having a sandy or muddy bottom, the trout are of a delicious flavour, weighing between one and three pounds. Geology and Mineralogy.'^The rocks are of the primitive class. There are no ores, no marble, limestone, sandstone, or slate, (with the exception of some grey coarse slate in a small island on the east side called Staslay) ; but rocks consisting of gneiss, coarse granite, and hornblende rock. Some mica-slate INVERNESS. N 186 INVEKNESS-SHIRE. is seen in a few places. No fossils or petrifeictioDs. The soil between the west shore and the lakes is all sandy for almost the whole length of the parish, varying in breadth between half a mile and a mile. The soil, in those parts lying between the lakes, and the moorland and hills, is partly black loam, and part- ly moss. There is no clayey soil in the parish. The most fruit- fill soil, when well manured, is what is called mixed soil, consist- ing of black soil and sand. The soil is thin, resting o?er gravel or rock ; but produces good crops in favourable seasons. Zoology. — There are many kinds of birds which migrate to this country, and remain in it during the winter and spring, from Oc- tober till April, such as swans, barnacle geese, several species of ducks, teals, &c. Besides these migrating birds, there is a vast number of wild geese, common wild ducks, a considerable number of eider duck along the western shore, cormorants, curlews, herons, sea-larks, sea-gulls of different species ; but of aqua- tic birds, which never land, but may be seen in the neighbour- hood of the shore, the writer of this account is not possessed of sufficient information to supply a correct account Besides these aquatic birds, there is abundance of pigeons, grey and green plover, larks, thrushes, linnets, and other birds common to the adjoining parishes. Game consists of grouse, woodcock, and snipe. The carnivorous birds are, eagles, hawks, falcons, kites, ravens, hooded-crows. As to quadrupeds ; — besides black-cattle, horses^ sheep, swine, and goats, there are rabbits, otters, rats, and mice. There are no snakes nor serpents of any kind ; no lizards, toads, nor frogs. There is no species of fish in the lakes and streams, but those already described, including salmour Salmon comes up the two streams already mentioned, to spawn, from the middle of Sep- tember to the beginning of November, and they return to the sea in December and January ; but the months of July and August, and beginning of September, are the time when the scanty fishing is most successful. The coast, for several years past, (at least the lochs on the east side of the parish) has not been much frequented by herring. Vast shoals of this fish are, every year, seen on the west coast of the parish ; but from the want of capital, skill, and encourage- ment, the people are not enabled to take the benefit of them. Besides, there is a very great disadvantage arising from the want of harbours on the west side, and the impossibility of finding a proper landing-place when there is a strong breeze. Though SOUTH UIST. 187 the sea on the east and west side of this parish abounds with cod, ling, and other kinds of fish, the inhabitants, from the causes above stated, cannot avail themselves of this branch of industry ; and no fishing to any extent is carried on in the pa- rish, except in the southern extremity, by a few of the Boisdale tenants, who, at an average, send about 28 tons of cod and ling annually to market. Since the Government bounty has been with- drawn, the fishing has considerably decreased. But such is the wretchedness of the labouring poor generally in some places, that this bounty, instead of being serviceable to the poor fishermen, went to the pockets of those persons who call themselves fish- curers ; and even now, the poor fishermen are compelled to sell the fish to their landlord, or the factor on the Boisdale estate, at a diminished price. About thirty years ago, there was a considerable fishing carried on in dog-fish and sun-fish or basking-shark. But since the bounty on the oil of these fishes has been withdrawn, this branch of in- dustry has been altogether discontinued. The most important and useful shell-fish on the shores of this pa- rish, is the cockle. It is found in great abundance in the sands between Benbecula and North Uist, and between South Uist and Benbecu- la. Great crowds of people, with horses and baskets or creels, are seen every summer, but especially in years of scarcity, picking up this shell-fish, as a most useful article of food, upon which, with a little milk, and sometimes without that addition, the poor people, in years of scarcity, principally subsist for two months. The shells, which make excellent lime for building, and particularly for plaster- ing, are sold at 4d. to 6d. per barrel. Besides cockles, there is plenty of razor or spout-fish, limpets, mussels, welks or periwinkles, lob- sters, and crabs. Oysters are only found on the shore of Loch Skip- port, and, being rock oysters chiefly, they are large and delicious. Botany. — It may be observed, that a botanist would find very little to attract his attention in this parish, and nothing which is not also found in the other Hebridean islands. The grass on the west side of the hills is of fine quality, and well calculated to yield milk and to &tten cattle in summer ; but from its fineness, melts away in winter with rain and frost Owing to the number of small horses necessarily kept by the tenantry for carrying their peats, kelp, and sea-ware for tillage, &c. their cows are not so W6ll pas^ tured as to be a profitable concern to the owners. 188 INVERNESS-SHIRE. II. — Civil History. T^nd'Owners. — The only land-owners are Ranald G. Macdo- nald, Esq. of Clanranald ; Hugh Macdonald, Esq. of Boisdale ; and Ranald Macdonald, Esq. of Bornish. Parochial Registers. — There was not a parochial register kept of the births and marriages among the Protestant population, till within the last two years. Two-thirds of the population are Ro- man Catholics ; and, without an act of Parliament, it is impossible to keep a regular register of the whole population in a parish so circumstanced. Antiquities. — In the island of Benbecula, there was a nunnery on the farm now called Nuntown. The building was taken down, and the stones used in the building of Clanranald's mansion and office-houses. About two miles to the north of the site of the nunnery, on a hxm called Bailivanich, or the &nn of the monks, still stand the remains of the monastery on a small islet in a lake. There are also at Benbecula, on the west side, the remains of an old castle named Caistal Bhuirbhj or the Castle of Borve, a very an- cient building, the residence of the lairds of Benbecula in ancient times. There is no tradition in regard to the time or person by whom it was built. In Loch Druidibeg, one of the lakes already mentioned, is an islet or rock, on which appear the remains of a building, evidently erected in ancient times as a place of refuge from barbarous incursions. There is also on a small islet in-a lake near Hoghmore, where the parish church is to be built, a small square building almost entire, named Caistal Eilen bheg riim^ signifying the castle in the island of small dimensions^ in which the captain of Clanranald resided with his family of old, when he dreaded inva- sion from his neighbouring foes. There was on a rock of consider- able elevation, in a small island in the southern extremity of the parish, near Eriscay, and opposite to Barra, a very ancient build* ing, named Caistal a Bhrebider^ or the Weaver's Castle, a part of which still stands, and which, as it was built on a rock of consider- able elevation, is still a conspicuous object at the distance of a few miles. A part of the wall lately fell. A better place for de- fence could scarcely have been selected. Modem Buildings. — The modern buildings are, two churches or chapels in the missionary districts of Benbecula and Boisdale : -^three chapels built by, and at the expense of, the Roman Catho- lic population ; also, — it may be stated in the account of a paridi like this, — three farm-houses, erected within the last five year^ SOUTH UIST. 189 all substaotially built of stone and lime, and slated. There are four mills in the parish built of the same materials, and supplied with good machinery and copious waterfalls. IIL — Population, From the reports of old people in the parish, it is believed that the population must have more than doubled during the last cen- tury, notwithstanding the frequent emigrations which have taken place to North America since the year 1772. The increase has been owing to early and improvident marriages, the healthiness of the climate, and the facility of parents in giving to their sons a por- tion of their lands, small enough for their own subsistence. There are no towns, villages, or hamlets in the parish. Mr Macdonald of Bomish is the only resident heritor. Four- fifths of the lands belong to Clanranald, whose rental is about L.4d00 ; Boisdale's, L.900 ; and Bornish's about L.200. There are 17 bachelors, and 36 widowers, upwards of fifty years of age ; and 98 unmarried women above forty-five. Average num- ber of children in each family, 5. There are 17 persons fatuous, 6 blind, 4 deaf and dumb, and 2 insane in the parish. Character and Habits of the Peopk. — The language used by the inhabitants is Gaelic, which is spoken with considerable purity, and has not lost ground within the last forty years. The people, in general, are not cleanly in their habits. Their ordinary dress is the sailor's jacket and trowsers of home-made woollen stuff, called c&>, or kelt They use the hat and bonnet indiscriminately. The ordinary food of the peasantry is barley-bread, potatoes, milk, oat- gruel or brochan, and occasionally fish, and shell-fish in summer. In good seasons, they have abundance of bread and potatoes ; but there are too many cottars and poor people who have no employ- ment, and can find none, and are consequently a burden on the farmers, who not only supply them with patches of land for pota- toes, but also support them but of their stock of provisions, when they see them in a state of destitution. The people, both Protest- ants and Catholics, are really very kind to the poor, which is a fortunate circumstance, as there are no parochial funds for reliev- ing their wants. The inhabitants, in general, are a moral, well-be- haved set of people ; but it must be confessed, that petty thefts are carried on to too great an extent among a certain class of them, owing to the extreme poverty of many, the^antof the wholesome 190 INVEKNESS-SHIRE. terror of a jail, and the great distance of the county town. Smug- gling has been entirely put down by the proprietors and their factors. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres on Clanranald's es- tate is 67,908, of which about 1 6,250 are arable. Boisdale's proper- ty consists of about 1 1,000 imperial acres, of which about 2500 are arable, and the rest all moorland, — a considerable part of which might be brought to a state of cultivation. Bomish's property con- tains about 1600 acres, of which about 260 acres are arable. In all there are 80,508 acres, of which 19,010 acres are arable, and the rest consists of mountain, hill, and moorland. In such an ex- tensive parish, it is impossible to state with accuracy what quan- tity of the waste land might be cultivated. For years past, the tenantry, particularly in Benbecula, and in the northern part of South Uist, have been bringing considerable portions of moss lands into cultivation. Roads have been made on some of the farms, from the west, or inhabited part, through the moss; by which roads the tenants carry manure to the moss, and bring home peats in return. There is, I believe, very little undivided common in the parish. A dispute exists between Clanranald and Bomish as to a servi- tude claimed by the latter over a considerable tract of bill ground belonging to the former. Great attention has, for some years back, been paid to the im- provement of black-cattle. There are in the parish some stocks inferior to none in the West Highlands. Some Cheviot and black- faced sheep have of late been introduced ; but the small tenants still continue the old breed of sheep: these are of small size, but the mutton is of uncommonly fine flavour, and the wool, though small in quantity, is very fine. Previous to the year 1818, the tenantry had their tillage and grass in common. This system was attended with ruinous effects ; the people were not so industrious as they have been since ; nor did they preserve their corn and potatoes from being damaged by cattle ; the consequence was, that the proprietors had to supply them with meal every year. The average of meal imported from 1812 to 1818 for the use of Clanranald's tenants, is 1500 bolls. Since then, none was imported till last year; and in ordinary years a good deal was exported. This change was effected by the stimulus which tb9 crofting system had given to the industry of the tenantry, by their crop being better preserved from cattle SOUTH UIST. 191 aod by some improvements in their mode of agriculture. The work formerly done by fi?e men and fi?e horses at the plough, is now performed by one man and two horses. It is not more than twenty years since the old plough with one stilt, named crom-- naU'^adj was entirely discontinued ; and it was only a few years ago that the small plough called ristk, which was used for cut- ting the ground, to enable the other plough to turn the sod with more ease, was disused. Indeed, . it is still used by a few of the tenants in strong sandy ground. Formerly, the tenants had all their potatoes in lazy beds, or narrow rigs, three or four feet broad, in ley strong ground. This practice is still followed. It was only a few years ago, that they began to plough the ground for their potatoes, and to set them in drills. The quality of the potatoes is consequently improved, and the quantity considerably increased. There are no trees in this parish ; but it appears that there was much wood in this country, in ancient times ; for in digging peats, branches of trees with hazel-nuts are found in several places ; and in some places at low water, in great spring-tides, trunks of trees are seen in moss in the sea on the west side, among rocks and sand. This evidently shows that the sea has been, from time im- memorial, encroaching on the land. It needs be no matter of surprise, that such changes should have taken place on the low flat western shore of this parish, the sand being from the edge of the sea drifted on the land, and then over moss, forming high banks, which in the course of time '^were covered with a sward of grass, and which subsequently, from the want of care on the part of the inhabitants, were broken up for folds for their cattle, and cots for their sheep, and then drifted in different directions. How- ever, though late, this sand-drift was in a great measure remedied in several places, within the last twenty years, as far as was practi- cable. In five or six farms, the sand-banks which were repairable, were, at great expense, covered with green sod, taken from the neighbouring ground, and in the course of a year, defied the strongest gales, and which, but for this prevention, would soon have been entirely blown away, and have left a barren desert; whereas, they are now covered with fine grass bent (Jrundo arenarioj) and afford both shelter and food to cattle. Another method has also been tried, on a small scale, to prevent sand- drift. Bent, or sand-grass, has been planted in two farms in the Dutch style, and found to answer the purpose exceedingly well. 192 INVERNESS-SHIRE. This bent is used by the parishioDen in making sacks for carrying their corn to the mill, and for horse graith, &c. There is a large sandy tract near the northern extremity of South Uist, named Madiari mxanach^ consisting of about 600 acres, which, for the last hundred years, has been of no use whatever, now partly brought into cultivation, being contiguous to abundance of sea-ware occa- sionally cast ashore. There were about 160 acres of it under bear or bigg last year, which, notwithstanding the inclemency of the season, produced about 500 bolls* If this ground, tilled last spring, were allowed to remain without crop for a few years, and if the adjoining part of 450 acres were brought into cultivation in succession in the same way, the whole (now a complete waste) would, in the course of a few years, be a delightful piece of ground, yielding abundance of fine grass. So backward were the tenants of the district to commence cropping this waste, under the idea that they should have nothing for their labour, that Clanranald's factor, in order to stimulate them to exertion, was obliged to pro- mise each a certain quantity of grain, if the crop should fail. B.ent. — With regard to the average rent of grazing, it is to be observed, that the lands arc let according to the amount of black- cattle they are calculated to maintain. The average sum for a milk cow with a two year old and stirk, is L. % 15s. The grass rent of the sheep is included in this sum. Wages. — The wages of farm-servants are from Li.4, I2s. to L.8. Price of butter, L.1 ; of cheese, 7s. per stone, Dutch weight. The crofters are tenants at will, and have no leases : but there is scarcely an instance of any of them being dispossessed of their lands, unless when guilty of bad conduct towards their neighbours, or gross immorality. The tacksmen, or principal farmers, have leases of fourteen years' endurance. There are very few enclo- sures in the parish, and farm-office houses are in a very indifferent state in general. There are fifteen slated farm-houses in the pa* rish. The principal improvements, as already stated, 9XB^ road* making, stopping sand drift, and bringing moss lands into cultiva* tion. Much land of excellent quality might be recovered from the water, by draining some of the lakes ; the largest of which> Loch Bee, in the immediate vicinity of the extensive sand waste before described, might, by an outlay of an inconsiderable sum of money, or by the labour of the tenants, now much in arrears* from the low price of cattle, be nearlji all drained, — whereby a SOUTH UIST. 193 large surface of fertile land, now covered with water, might be brought into cultivation, to the great benefit of the proprietor. The obstacles to improvement are, want of capital, want of roads to the moorland, and want of drains and inclosures. The sand, which consists of about three parts of lime and one of silex, is found to answer well as manure, when laid on moss, by which crops of bear and oats are produced ; so that if good roads were made through the different farms, from the shore to the moss, extending at an average for three or four miles, large tracts of moorland, with the aid of sea-ware and sand, might be brought ioto cultivation, particularly as the small tenants are beginning to use carts in husbandry, and as the quantity of sea-weed cast on the west shore is very great. Produce* — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — 7,719 botli of bear, oats, and rye, at L. 1 per boll, - L. 7719 82,760 barrels ofpotetoes, at 2s. per barrel, - . 8276 lOacres turnip, at L. II, - - - - 110 00 29,000 atones meaiclow hay, at 6d. per stone, - - 575 1,000 do. cultivated hay, at ^. - - - - 33 6 1 ,600 cattle, at an average of L. 3, - - • - 4800 400 pigs, at 10s. - - - - . 200 Eggs sent to Glasgow, at 2s. 6d. per 100, - - 625 25 tons ofood and ling fish, at L. 20 per ton, - - 500 l,570tonsofkelp, atL.d, .... 4710 Total valve of yearly raw produce, L. 27,548 6 The quantity of rye raised is but small, and confined to four or five farms. There are only four or five gardens in the parish. There are scarcely any cabbages raised by the small tenants, or any garden vegetable, or roots. The egg trade is carried on by young able-bodied men, who go about through the country with baskets, buying up all the eggs they can get at Sd. per dozen. These are shipped off for Glasgow and Greenock from Loch Boisdale, Loch Eynort, and the Sound of Eriscay, in open boats, of from 1 7 to 20 feet keel ; in return for which, the dealers bring home goods, such as dye-stuffs, tobacco, cotton goods, crockery^ and some other articles of convenience. It was only a few years ago that turnips were introduced. They are only cultivated on two or three farms. They answer uncom* monly well ; and I cannot doubt, that when inclosures become general, they will be extensively cultivated. Artificial grasses, such as rye-grass and clover, are only raised on two ferms, where they are found to thrive well. The want of inclosures is the great 194 INVERNESS-SHIRE. obstacle to this article of husbandry, as well as to turnip. The meadow hay is generally of very fine quality. Live-Stock. — The number of black-cattle in the parish, includ- ing stirks, is 5254 ; of horses, 2145 ; of sheep, 7042. There are not above 100 goats. Manufactures, — Kelp is the only article manufactured in this pa- rish. While the price continued good, the proprietors were en- abled to pay high wages for the manufacture, and the people were thereby enabled to maintain themselves comfortably. But, by the taking off the duty on salt and sulphur, the price of kelp has been so much reduced, that the article is hardly worth the mak- ing. In this way the value of the principal estate in the parish has been reduced from L. 15,000 to less than L.5000 a year. The wages of kelp-makers has been consequently reduced, and, indeed, the manufacture would not be continued at all, but to enable the tenants to pay their rents. The number of persons employed in the manufacture of kelp is 1872, including young persons of both sexes between twelve and sixteen years. It is a healthy employ- ment, and has no bad effect on the morals of the young persons en- gaged in it In dry weather, the work is carried on at an average of eight hours a day. But the persons employed in burning the ware^ and working it when burnt till it becomes liquid, with their irons fixed on long poles, have a. very warm and troublesome task, and are often engaged for sixteen hours together. The quality has been liiuch improved during the last twenty years. The weed is allowed only two years growth before it is cut, instead of three and four years, as formerly, — which is considered by some peo- ple to be prejudicial to the qualify and strength of the kelp. The wages have been lately reduced from L.d, 8s., and L.2, 12s. 6d.» to L.2 per ton ; the latter of which is still considered a fair remu- neration in good seasons, but very inadequate in rainy sununera. The work begins about the middle of June, and is finished when the weather ts propitious, between the beginning and middle. of August Shipping. — There are only four decked-vessels of small burden in the parish. They are chiefly employed* in ferrying cattle to Skye and the mainland, and in carrying kelp to Liverpool and Glasgow. The custom*house of the district is Stomoway. Parochial Association. — There is a local Association in coiinec- tion with the neighbouring parish of North Uist, for improving the breed of black- cattle and horses. SOUTH UIST. 195 V. — Parochial Economy. There is a good road the whole length of the parish, which is kept in repair by statute labour and commutation money. The nearest post-office is at Lochmaddy in North Uist, about sixty-six miles distant from the south extremity of the parish. The county town, Inverness, is distant 192 miles from the parish ; but the principal communication is with Glasgow and Greenock. Two fairs are annually held in the parish, at Ormaclet and Benbecula, in July and September, for the sale of black-cattle and horses. There are three principal harbours, Lochboisdale, Loch Eynort, and Loch Skipport, — to the first two of which there are good roads. Lochboisdale, near the south extremity of the parish, is one of the best, safest, and most capacious harbours in the kingdom, and is the' resort of shipping to and from the Baltic, in tempestuous weather. Loch Eynort, near the middle of the parish, is also a good harbour, but has the disadvantage of being very narrow at the entrance^ where there is a low flat rock in the middle covered at high water : in the inside, there are several excellent places of anchorage. Loch Skipport, about ten miles north of the latter, is as safe and good though not so capacious as Lochboisdale, the entrance to the harbour being roomy, clean, and free of danger. There are three other harbours to the north of Loch Skipport, of inferior note, which are very seldom entered by decked craft, ex- cepting vessels receiving kelp. These are. Loch Charnan, Loch Shelliva, and Loch Uisgava. Ecclesiastical State. — There is no parish church. About eighteen years ago, the late incumbent, with consent of the Presbytery, agreed to have the walls of an old house roofed and thatched, for a temporary place of worship, until circumstances should render it necessary to build a parish church. Measures are now in progress for this purpose, as the present house is in a ruinous state. The church is to be built near the centre of the parish, about twenty miles from the south extremity, and eighteen from the north end, close by the si(e of the house now used as a parish church, and conveniently situate for about 439 out of a population of 6890. There is no manse nor glebe. The minister receives L.50 a year for these accommodations. A process of augmentation of stipend is still pending before the Court of Session, so that the amount of stipend cannot be stated at present. There are two missionaries in the parish, one at Boisdale, in the south part of it, and the other at Benbecula. They are paid out 196 INVERNR8S-SHIRE. of the Royal Bounty for the Reformation of the Highlands and Islands, at the rate of L.60 a year ; and L.20 a year is given by the heritor in lieu of accommodations. There are no catechists. The Catholics, who form more than two-thirds of the population, have three chapels. The bishop resides at Glasgow. The number of families attending the Established Church is about 354, of indi- viduals, 980. Divine service is generally well attended in sum- mer ; in winter, such as are at a considerable distance cannot re- gularly attend, some of them having to travel nine miles to the church. The people are quiet and peaceable, and sectarianism has not obtaincNd any footing among them. 'J^hose of the Ester blished Church live on the best terms with their Catholic neigh- bours. There are no church collections, the people being so poor that nothing can be collected in that way for religious and charitable ob- jects. Attempts were made, several years ago, in better times, to have regular church collections for the poor, but they proved abortive. Education, — There are 10 schools in the parish, viz. 1 parochial school ; 2 of the Assembly's schools ; 2 from the Society for Pro« pagating Christian Knowledge ; 1 from the Gaelic School Society ; 1 from the Glasgow Auxiliary'Society ; 1 in the Island of Eriscay, supported by individual subscription ; and 2 female schools for knit- ting, sewing, and reading Gaelic Latin and Greek are only taught in the parish school and one of the Assembly's : in all, (the female schools excepted,) reading English and Gaelic, writing, arithme- tic, and book-keeping are taught The school-fees are from Gs. to 12s. a year, and, owing to the poverty of the people, are very ill paid. The number of those between six and fifteen years who cannot read or write, is about 600 ; and of those above fifteen years, 414& An additional school is required in a place called Stonybridge, which is a populous district, and distant from any of the other schools. The people are not, in general, alive to the benefits of education. This is partly owing to their poverty and consequent inability to pay the school -fees, and partly to the necessity of their employing the children at work, and herding cattle. Indeed, the poor children in general are so ragged and destitute of clothes and shoes, that in some districts most of them cannot attend school in winter, which is the season of the year when they could most conve- niently attend. This destitution is very general, but is particularly observable at Ichdar, where there is one of the schools from the SOUTH UlST. 197 Society (ot Propagating Christian KnowledgOi which, for this cause, is very ill attended, although the district contains a popula- tion of 756 persons. It is really grievous to see how ill all the schools in the parish are attended, owing to the causes above stat-p ed, with the exception of the Assembly's school at Bailivanich. Inns, — There are four inns in the parish, which, with the ex- ception of one, are ill kept. Miscellaneous Observations. Forty years ago, the rental of the parish was L.2200 ; it is now L. 5600. The produce has been more than tripled since 1796. This increase is owing to the improvements in agriculture, and the necessity of rearing more cattle, and raising more crop, for a po- pulation nearly doubled since that time. The crofts are too small to enable the tenantry to rear good cattle ; and the number of horses kept by them (by far too many) renders it impossible for them to do justice to their cows. If the crofts were enlarged, by joining every two or three of them together, cattle of a superior description might be reared, and a better sys* tem of husbandry followed. But it is impossible to adopt such a plan, while the parish is overstocked with people ; and matters must remain in a miserable state, unless the surplus population emigrate, which they cannot do, owing to their poverty, unless Go- vernment send them to some of the colonies, free of expense. In* closures and drains are very much required; and good roads to the moorland, through the different farms in the parish, would be one of the most essential improvements of which it is susceptible. A great deal might also be done, as already stated, by draining some of the lakes; by which, an extensive surface of excellent soil might be brought into cultivation. 1837. N. B. — Since this Account was drawn up, the property of Ranald G. Macdonald, Esq. of Clanranald, lying in the islands of Benbecula and South Uist, has been purchased by Colonel Gordon of Cluny.— Jan. 1841. PARISH OF BARRAY. PRESBYTERY OF UIST, SYNOD OF GLENBLO. ' THE REV. ALEXANDER NICOLSON, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — Some have supposed that the parish derives its name from St Barr, who was always considered by the natives as the tutelar saint of Barray, to whom the principal Romish churches in the island are dedicated, and called Killbar in honour to him. Nothing can show better the estimation in which this personage was held in the eyes of the people, than their having set apart a day annually as a holiday to his memory. On that day (25th of September,) all the Roman Catholic population convene in their chapel in the forenoon to hear mass, from whence they set off to Killbar, each man riding his small pony, with his wife or favourite lass mounted behind him ; who, after riding thrice round the sacred edifice, return to the place from whence they set out The females provide, before-hand, quantities of wild field carrots for this occasion, with which they treat their partners. This superstitious ceremony, which has been adhered to for ages, is still countenanced by their priests, although they acknowledge that the Roman calendar has never been honoured with St Barr^s name. But it must be observed that, by the intermixture of strangers with the natives, this ceremony is felling greatly into disuse. With due respect for St Barr, it is much more probable that the name of Barray was originally derived from its particular situation or bearing, t. e. from Ay or /, an island, and Bar^ a point or top ; Barray forming the point or top island of the Hebrides. Boundaries J Extent^ i^c. — The parish is formed of that cluster of islands lying at the south-west end of Lewis Islands, or the Western Hebrides. It is bounded on the north by a channel of six miles, separating it from South Uist; the islands of Canna and Rum are the nearest lands to it on the east, distant about twenty-six miles; the islands of Coll and Tyrie, are the nearest lands to it on the south, distant about thirty miles ; and on the west it is bounded by BARRAY. 199 the Atlantic Ocean. The parish consists of the main island of Barray, properly so called, besides several other islands of con- siderable sizO) amounting in all to upwards of twenty. About ten of these are inhabited, and the others used as grazings. The main island of Barray is about 12 miles in length, but varying in breadth from 6 to 3 miles, being much indented by bays and arms of the sea, principally on the east side. The other islands vary in extent from 4 acres to 1800 acres. Those to the south-west stretch out in one line from the mainland to Berneray or Barray- head, about 15 miles. The currents and tides run with great ra- pidity between these islands, increased by the immense swell from the Atlantic Ocean, so as to render the intercourse betwixt them and the other islands not only hazardous, but at times impossible. Topographical Appearances, — Although Barray cannot boast of high mountains, yet there are some of considerable height, yield- ing fine pasture to their very tops, with very little heather inter- mixed. And though, at first sight, the aspect of the island appears rocky in the eyes of a stranger, yet, upon a more minute examina- tion, it will be found interspersed with pleasant and fruitful hol- lows and valleys, together with some low rich meadow land. In- deed, the whole island, as well as its numerous appendage islets, yield to no other place of their extent in the Highlands of Scot- land, for pasture of every description. The west coast of the island, with the exception of two or three sandy bays, is defended against the powerful attacks of the Atlantic billows, by a barrier of im- mense rocks, many of which are, by the constant action of the waves upon them, excavated into a variety of deep caves and dread- ful fissures, some of which are so very steep as to render it impossible for any person, not possessed of strong nerves, to look down from the top of the rock to the frightful gulf below. The islands of Berneray and Mingalay are particularly distinguished for the height of their rocks. That immediately below the light-house, erected a few years since, at Berneray or Barray-head, is about 700 feet above the level of the sea, and there is another rock in the adja- cent island of Mingalay reckoned to be 1 400 feet of perpendi- cular height The extent of the parish firom Scirrival, the most northerly point of the main island, to Berneray, the most southerly island belonging thereto, may be estimated about 28 miles, includ* ing the different channels intervening. On the east shore, the land is rocky, with heath and moss, with the exception of one great bay, which is sandy, as also some of the land to the north. The 200 INVERNESS-SHIUE. west shore is both rocky and sandy* The principal bays are on the east side, and constitute excellent and safe harbours for ship- ping, such as Bayhierava (or inland bay), Uilevay, Castlebay, Watersaybay, Flodday sound, and Ottirvore. All these are enters ed from the east. The principal headland in Barray is Bemeray or Barray-head, from whence many ships steer their course for America. The names of the larger islands of which the parish of Barray is formed, and which are mostly inhabited, are as follows : Watersay, Sanderay, Pabbay, Mingalay, and Berneray to the south ; Flodday, Hellisay, Gighay, Uidhay, and several others of a smaller description, not inhabited, to the east and north-east* Meteorology. — The most prevalent winds in Barray, as well as in the rest of the Western Isles, are south-west and north-west The most violent gales that blow are generally from the south- west, and their dreadful effects are visible on such parts of the islands as are composed of loose drifting sand, and exposed to the Atlantic gales. There, the sand is driven to and fro by every suc- cessive gale, leaving nothing behind but the rocky skeletons of granite or whinstone, where once the ground was clothed with a beautiful variety of red and white natural clover. The same wind carries along with it great quantities of rain during a part of the autumn, and most of the winter ; but in the month of March, the wind occasionally veers round to the east, with cold dry weather. Due north and south winds are not very frequent, and rarely con- tinue above two or three days at a time. Although the climate is, in general, variable and fluctuating, yet it is &r from being unfavourable to the human constitution, as in- stances of longevity have occurred here, as frequently as in any other part of Scotland ; and there are still to be found in the pa^ rish a few who have exceeded a hundred years, with all their men- tal faculties unimpaired. The quantity of rain that falls cannot with any degree of accuracy be ascertained, as no regular meteo- rological tables are kept ; but the quantity that falls in Barray is in general far less than what falls in any of the adjacent islaodsb perhaps owing to the lowness of its hills. The climate is^ upon the whole, mild, from its being surrounded by the sea^ and the reflection of the sun upon the sandy soil, of which a great part of the island is composed, to which also may be ascribed the early vegetation and ripening of corn and grasses. Sown hay has been cut down here in the month of June, and barley sometimes at early as the latter end of July or beginning of August ; and in- 3 ARRAY. 201 stances haye been known of barley sown on the 20th of June being cut down ripe in September. Snow and frost are little known in fliis island, and when they appear, seldom continue more than a few days at a time. The diseases most prevalent are rheumatism, fevers, croup, asthma, bowel-complaints, cutaneous eruptions, sore l^s in consequence of frequent immersion in salt-water during the boating and fishing, and such other diseases as are the usual concomitants of poor living, want of cleanliness, and destitution of clothing. Besides the other various evils to which the inhabit- ants are subject, the want of a medical practitioner among them 18 not the least; neither is there any of that profession within twenty miles, to whom they can apply for advice, under the most distressing circumstances. The consequence is, that people are often cut off in the prime of life, who, under the management of a skilful medical man, might be spared to their families. Rainbows, halos, and polar lights are seen often in this quarter* It is universally admitted that the aurora borealis or polar lights make their appearance much more frequently in our hemisphere now, than ever they did in former times, and in much greater splen- dour. They generally prognosticate a change of weather from good ' to bad, or from bad to good. The halo about the moon indicates in summer rain, and in the winter snow or frost. As the south-west and north-west are the prevailing winds, when the atmosphere thickens to the west, it prognosticates rain and bad weather ; but while the west keeps clear, no change of weather is apprehended. The Island of Berneray, (anciently denominated the Bishop Island,) and the adjacent island of Mingalay, are particularly dis- tinguished (as already observed) for the height of their rocks, and their romantic appearance in every other respect; but what adds greatly to the splendid scenery of these precipices, are the innu- merable tribes of aquatic fowls by which they are inhabited, during the whole of the summer season. These birds pay their first visit to the rocks on the 1st day of February, early in the morning, when they clean oift the rubbish of last year's nests. Betwixt that period and the month of May, ihey pay cursory visits to the rocks. Early in the month of May, they lay their eggs on the shelves of the rocks, so close to each other that it appears wonderful how they can distinguish their own eggs from those that surround them. Each of these birds has but one egg, and as soon as the young one is hatched, ^nd INVERNESS. O *202 INVEUiNKSS-SHIUK. gathers strength about the end of July, the old bird gets it upon its own back, and throws itself and the young one headlong into .the sea below, from whence it returns no more that season. Of these fowls there is no great variety visiting the above rocks ; but few as they are, each tribe keeps possession of a certain division of the rocks, which its neighbours dare not approach. Thus from the bottom to the top of the rock, each keeps its own divi- sion. Nothing can possibly exceed the grandeur of beholding the myriads of these aquatic fowls standing erect on the ledges of these precipices, sometimes three and four deep, with their white breasts and red bills, resembling files of soldiers standing at ease, and so very tame, that a person might catch them with his' hands, were he able to approach them; and when roused from their slumber by the firing of a shot, they rise over your head like a cloud of locusts, deafening by their cries, and darkening the sky by their numbers. The natives, at very great risk, de- scend into the rocks, and not only rob the poor birds of their eggs, but kill them for their carcase and feathers. The fi.rst they reckon good eating, and the feathers they sell for beds. This desperate robbery has 'cost some of the natives their lives. No less than two melancholy instances of this kind have occurred within a few years. It is hardly possible to point out a scene more worthy of being visited for grandeur and variety than that of these rocks, particularly during the months of June and July. St Kilda, so often resorted to by strangers, Coruisge, Cuiraing, or any other place on the coast of Scotland, cannot come in competition with the scenery of the southern isles of Barray, during the period above-mentioned. Hydrography. — There are only four fresh water lakes in the island, none of which exceed half a mile or a mile in length, or deserve any farther notice, than that they abound in small black trout and eels, and have each an old dun built upon one of. their small rocks or islands. Neither are there any rivers or streams of consequence, as in a place so confined, and so intersect- ed by arms of the sea, rivers of any considerable size cannot be formed. Although the island abomids in springs of excellent fresh water, yet there is none of any medicinal quality. Geology -and Mineralogy. — The rocks in this parish are gene-^ rally of coarse granite : but in the Island of Berneray a quarry of granite has been discovered of a very superior quality, beauti- BARKAY. 203 fully marled, and said to be inferior to none of the kind in Scot- land. Of this stone the light-house and its appendages are built. It bears to be dressed and polished in a superior style. The soil of this place is of different kinds and qualities, such as moss, light sand, light black soil, and meadow land. Zoology* — Barray can boast of no species of animals peculiar to itself, nor any birds but such as are common along the whole coast of the Western Isles. Deer appear to have been inhabitants of it at one time, from the number of their horns still found buried in the earth. No part of the west coast of Scotland abounds more in fish of every description than Barray, such as ling, cod, tusk, hake, turbot, flounders, together with the various other kinds that frequent the western isles ; and the coast is frequently visited by immense shoals of herrings, which the inhabitants seldom take the advantage of catching, for want of proper tackling. The grub-worm often proves destructive to the labour of the farmer, more especially in cold wet weather, and the caterpillar no less hurtful to that of the gar- dener. Various means have been resorted to for their destruction, but none have proved effectual. With regard to shell-fish, no place on the western coast abounds more in this article of food than Barray. Here are to be found lobsters, crabs, clams, razor- fish, muscles, welks, limpets, and the still more important shell- fish the cockle, constituting, in scarce years, a principal part of the subsistence of the inhabitants. Cockles are to be found in the sands of Barray in such immense quantities, that scores of horse loads may be taken up during a single tide, and the people con- sider them the most nourishing shell-fish on their shores. Some- times they eat them when boiled, out of the shell, at other times, such as have milk, boil it and the cockles together, making them into soup, which they consider a very nutritious diet. They com- mence the use of them in times of scarcity in April, and continue the use of them till the beginning of August. The people allege that the quantity of this fish found on the shores is much greater in scarce seasons than at any other time. Botany. — Under this head, little or nothing can be said, as there is no herb or plant in Barray but such |as are common to every other parish in the Western Hebrides. Barray is as defec- tive in the article of timber, as any of its neighbouring isles. It is said that wood will not grow in any part of the Long Island, but the truth is, that no trial has ever been made. It is beyond doubt, 20 4 INVERNESS-SIIIUE. that these islands were once clothed with woods, from the in- numerable trunks of large trees still found under ground, even some of them below high water-mark. Certain it is, however, that young plantings will not thrive very close to the west shores, exposed to the sea spray ; but there are many sheltered spots in every island, where there is hardly a doubt that trees would thrive. As a proof of this, Colonel Macneil, the late proprietor of Barray, had a spot on the east side of the island planted with various kinds of trees which grew in a few years as well as could be expected any- where; but the proprietor transplanted them to the ground about his mansion house, where they had not the same shelter, and where the soil was light sand ; in consequence of which, they pined away ; whereas, had they been left where they were originally planted, they might in a few years have been large trees. This limited trial proves that it is not impossible to rear trees in Barray, by proper care. Fruit trees when lined to garden walls, thrive well, and yield ex- cellent fruit, but not otherwise. II. — Civil History. As this parish was only disjoined from that of South Uist in 1733 -34, there can be no historical account of it previous to that date, but as connected with South Uist. Dean Munro, however, who wrote his history of the Western Isles in 1540-49, thus describes Barray : " Not far from the Isles Watersay, (one of the islets belonging to Barray,) towards the north by twa myle of sea, lyes the Isle of Barray, being seven myle in lengthe from the south-west to the north-eist, and be north, and foure in breadthe from the south-eist to the north-west, ane fer- till and fruitful ile in cornes, abounding in the fishing of kielling, ling, and all uther quhite fish, with ane paroche kirk namit Kill- bare. Within the south-west end of this ile, there enters a salt water loche, verey narrow in the entrey, and round and braid with- in. Into the middis of this loche ther is ane castle in an ile, up- on an strengthey craige, callit Kilclerin, (now called Kismul) per- taining to Mr Mack Neil of Barray. In the north end of this ile of Barray, there is ane rough heigh know, mayne grasse and greine round about it to the head, on the topof quhilk ther is ane spring and fresh water well. This well truely springs up certain little round white things, less nor the quantity of confeit come, lykest to the shape and figure of an little cokill, as it appeared to me. Out of this well runs ther an little strype downwith to the sea, and nARRAY. 205 quher it enters into the sea ther is ane myle braid of sands, quhilk ebbs ane myle, callit the Fray more of Kilbaray, that is, the grate sandes of Barray. This ile is full of grate cokills, and al* ledgit by the ancient countrymen that the same cokills comes down out of the foresaid hill through the said strype, in the first small forme that we have spoken of, and after ther coming down to the sandes growis grate cokills always. Ther is na fairer and more profitable sands for cokills in all the warld. This ile pertaines to MacNeil of Barray." Nothing can show the credulity of the Deao more than this account of the cockles beincr formed in cm- bryo on the top of a hill, in a fresh water spring, and thereafter car- ried down to the sea where they grow large. There certainly is such a spring yet to be seen, but no visible appearance of any thing like cockles forming there. Martin, who wrote about ICO years later than the Dean, repeats the same incredible story of the cockles. This parish was surveyed in 1820-21, and plans drawn, when the superficial contents were found to be about 22,000 imperial acres, including the several islands connected with it. Colonel Macneil is the only owner ; but the property is now under seques- tration and in the hands of creditors.* Family of Macneil. — The family of the Macneils have held possession of Barray for time immemorial. Martin sa\s that when he visited this place in 1703, the Highland chro- niclers alleged that the Macneil then in possession was the thirty-fourth lineal descendant from the first who obtained it. Whether this account be correct or not to the full extent, it is cer- tain that the Macneils possessed these islands for a great length of time. In the Register Office a charter may be seen by Alexander Lord of the Isles and Earl of Ross, giving to Gilleownan, the son of Rodrick, the son of Murdoch Macneil, not only all the lands of Barray, but also Boisdale in South Uist, on condition of as- sisting the Lord of the Isles, as well in peace as in war, against all enemies whatsomever, men and women, by sea and land, litis charter was given at Finlagan, in Islay, in 1427; and was con- firmed by King James IV. at Stirling in 1495, after the power of the Lords of the Isles had been broken down. The Macneils were of old a great terror to their neighbours, as, being expert sea- men, they carried 'their depredations to every creek in the VVo>(- • Since the abovo was written, the whole estate of Uarray has been i»urcha.sul by Colonel Gordon of Cluny. 206 INVERNESS-SHIRE. • ern Islands, which might be a powerful reason with the Lord of the Isles for making them his allies. One of them in particular was remarkable for his activity and turbulence (called Resary an Tartair) or the noisy or troublesome Bodricky who spared neither friend or foe, until at last he committed piracy on one of Queen Eli- zabeth's ships, when a reward ^as offered for his apprehension, which was at length accomplished with very great ingenuity by the tutor of Kintail, as may be seen more fully detailed in the former Statistical Account Martin relates, that ** the inhabitants of this and the other islands belonging to Macneil make application to^him for wives and husbands, he names the persons, and gives them a bottle of strong waters for the marriage feast. Their usual address to him is, that they want a wife or a husband to manage their affairs, and beget him followers ; and he makes up the match without any long court- ship, for he takes what care he can that their circumstances may suit one another. The people preserve their sea-fowl by salting them with the ashes of sea-ware, by putting them up in cow hides." Parochial Register^ — There is no parochial register kept in this parish, nor can we learn that any was ever kept This may be accounted for by the parishioners having been, till of late, almost all Roman Catholics, over whom the minister could exercise no control. Antiquities.^— liheTe are several ruins of religious houses in Barray, some of which appear to be of ancient structure. The prin- cipal ones are at Killbar. Each of these has an altar of rough stones in one end, and the pedestal of a cross stands at a short distance from the buildings. These churches were dedicated to St Barr; and of old a wooden figure of the saint was stuck up for the adoration of the deluded people. This figure was dressed up in its best habiliments on the saint's anniversary, and we are credibly informed, that it was customary for persons proceed- , ing on a journey to make some present to the saint, of clothes or linen, to insure prosperity to their undertakings. No trace of this figure is now to be seen. Numerous watch-towers are over the whole of the islands of Barray, — as also Duns upon every lake in the place, supposed to be built by the Scandinavians, when in possession of these islands. There are likewise many Druidi- cal circles, as they are designated ; but a Danish gentleman, who lately visited these parts as historiographer to the Kjng of Denmark, maintains that they are of Scandinavian origin, and were intended by these people as places for their heathen wor- BARRAY. 207 ship* In several of the islands are to be seen immense heaps of human bones : and we have been credibly informed by a gentleman of some information, and a native of the place, that he had seen, on the island of Watersay, the entire skeleton of a trooper and his horse, where they had fallen side by side on the sand, with some pieces of the armour pretty entire, where the sand-drift had exposed them to view. Although this gentleman's veracity can- not be doubted, it is difficult to account for the fact. There are several tumuli over the country in which, when opened, were found human bones along with deer horns. The most entire and regular ancient building in Barray is KismuU Castle, the ancient residence of the Macneils of Bar- ray. It is built upon a small rock in the middle of a beautiful bay, (Kilelerin of Dean Munro). The whole rock is covered by the sea at high water ; the castle is of an irregular 6gure, strongly built, with anchorage for small vessels on every side of it. It is about 60 feet high, with a square tower in one corner, overtopping the rest of the wall by many feet. Tradition says that delinquents were let down by a rope and conBned there. Immediately over the entry to the castle, the gockman or watchman stood all night, repeating some rhyme to keep himself awake, and throwing stones down over the outside of the gate through a hole made in the wall for the purpose, to prevent a surprise. On the area within the walls, the dwelling-houses were built, which, if we may judge by their size and appearance, must have a£forded but very indif- ferent accommodations. In the centre of the area a large circular well is sunk ; but it is doubtful whether it was used as a reservoir for rain-water, or sunk for the purpose of raising water from beneath. The well is now filled up with stones thrown into it by the natives, in order to prevent accidents. Attached to this castle, at the entrance to the gate, there is a dock built for the galley, adapted to the exact length and breadth of the boat, and defended on the west by a strong wall from the action of the sea. Martin says that the na- tives informed him, that the castle was 500 years old when he vi- sited the island, and that it had then its regular officers and guards, keeping watch upon the walls to prevent surprise. Both coins and arms have often been found in Barray, but none of them have been preserved. About three years ago, in trench- ing the clergyman's garden, a gold medal, nearly the size of a half-crown-piece, was dug up. It was cast for the coronation of 208 INVERNESS-SHIRK. Augustus, the second King of Poland ; but how it found its way to this distant corner, is not easily understood, unless we suppose that it belonged to some person on board of a Dutch ship which was wrecked on this coast, when on her way to Batavia, about the be- ginning jof the last century, when every person on board was lost, including several people of rank. As the bodies of these men were washed ashore, it is more than probable that this medal was found upon one of them. Modem Buildings. — The mansion-house of Barray at Eoligary, built by the late proprietor, is a most commodious building, situat- ed in a sheltered place, and surrounded by fields of fine improve- able lands, not inferior in quality or appearance to any in the Western Isles. The manse, which is very commodious, was built in 1816, but stands now in need of some repairs. A church was built a few years since, and can accommodate 250 sitters in the ground area, and is fitted for galleries to accommodate 200 more, if necessary. There are three other excellent farm-houses slated^ and in good condition. A mill has lately been erected for grind- ing of corn, on a better construction than any that had been there before. There is likewise an extensive soda manufactory, which has been working for several years,' but it was found at last neces- sary to discontinue it, after it had involved the proprietor in such expenses as obliged him to sequestrate his whole property fori)ehoof of his creditors, and now to advertise it for sale. Of late, a most splendid lighthouse has been erected on the island of Berneray or Barray-head, the farthest south of all the Barray isles, with that beautiful granite found upon the island itself. The roof of it, as well as the houses built for the keepers, are all covered with sheet- lead. IIL — Population. According to the church records the population of the parish in 1750 was I28& Dr Webster's return, - - - J 755 1150 Dr Walker's return, - - . 1771 ISftS Sir John Sinclair's Account, . . 1791 1604 Gavernnient census, ... IgQl 1925 Do. Do. - - . 1811 1969 Do. Do. , . . 1821 2803 Do. Do. - - . 1831 2097 The increase in the population would have been very great, ow- ing to early marriages, and the reluctance of the people to leave the country for work in the south, — had not emigration to Cape Briton and Nova Scotia carried off the island a great many almost every year. In some years, several hundreds leave it for those places* At present, there are 278 families who possess lanxls, and 93 femi* BARRAY. 209 lies who hold no lands whatever. Of the last, 70 persons are upon the poor's roll ; 3 are fatuous : 4 deaf and dumb ; and 2 blind. The average of births, deaths, and marriages, cannot with accuracy be ascertained, for want of a parochial register, and from the great nugodty of the population being Roman Catholics. Very few attain the age of thirty before they marry, and some- times they enter into that state at twenty. This may account for the fewness of illegitimate children born in the parish, — instances of which are very rare. HabiiSf S^c of the People. — The inhabitants are of the middle size) patient and hardy in enduring cold and fatigue. They are expert seamen, and considered the best boatmen in the Western Isles. No instance has occurred of a Barra boat being lost for upwards of twenty years, although boats are generally at sea both summer and winter. Gaelic is the language universally spoken, and it is very pure and still unmixed with many English words. The Eng- lish language has made little or no progress, because schools have been wanting. The people of Barray have no games or amuse- ments but what are common to the surrounding islands. Dancing, with music of the bagpipes, is a favourite pastime. They are not remarkable for cleanliness in their habits or dress in general, yet on holidays their appearance is decent enough. The men dress in jackets and trowsers of home-made or south country cloth ; the women wear clothes made by themselves, and, at times, south country droggets or prints. They wear a handkerchief about their head instead of a cape, and a petticoat about their shoulders for a cloak. The women are slovenly in their manners, and not very active or cleanly. The people are so very poor, that many of them are destitute of bed-clothes. Their ordinary food consists of barley-meal, potatoes, and milk^ and attimes fish, with which those placed in the more favourable situa- tions are abundantly supplied. All the fishermen export their cod and ling to Glasgow and other markets, and reserve such fish as is not marketable for the use of their own families. In very scarce years^ such as 1836 and 1837, they subsist, in a great measure, upon cockles and other shell-fish, with very little bread and milk. Under all these destitutions, it is surprising how contented they are with their lot With regard to their intellectual powers, little can be said. Their want of education, together with their seclusion from the society of other countries, must confine the exercise of their 210 INVRRVESS-SHIRG. intellectual powers within very narrow limits. Still they are shrewd and inquisitive, but too indolent and indiSerent to provide for them- selves or families any of those comforts or necessaries of life which, by a little more exertion and prudence, they might easily acquire. They are extremely addicted to the use of both spirits and tobac- co-smoking. There are more spirits consumed in Barray than in any other place of its extent in the Western Islands. In point of religion, the natives, who are mostly Roman Catholics, are not worse than their neighbours of the same persuasion. They are regular in their attendance on their own worship, without, perhaps, bringing forth those fruits which such attendance should naturally produce. As soon as the congregation is dismissed, the inn is their common resort, where they drink to such excess as often ends in a quarrel. The Protestants, who are comparatively few in num- ber, and mostly strangers from other parts of the Highlands, are, with few exceptions, sober and industrious, and in their religious attainments, are noways behind their neighbours in the adjacent islands. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — By a survey made of this parish in 1820-21, it was found to contain 22,072,943 imperial acres, distinguished into arable, machir or sandy ground, hill-pasture, moss or meadow, as follows : Ara))1c, . , 3921.9377 Mnchir or fiandy, . 1540.453 Hill pasture. . 16139.5089 Moss or meadow, . 470.9938 Total, 22072.943 As all the lands in Barray are let either in farms or in crofb, consisting of arable and pasture ground intermixed, it is not pos- sible to ascertain the exact rent of an arable acre. Rent of Land. — The average price of a cow's grass depends much on the quality of the pasture, which varies much in diffe- rent parts of the parish. It may, however, be stated at L. 1, IDs. or L. 2 per annum ; that of a sheep, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per an- num. Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants receive from L. 4 to L. 7 per annum, exclusive of maintenance ; and women from L.2 to ll 3 per annum, besides maintenance. Daily labourers receive Is. 6d. in summer, and Is. in winter, per day, without maintenance. Ma- sons receive 2s. 6d. per day ; house carpenters 2s. ; and all country BARRAY. 211 artisans, such as tailors, shoemakers, weavers, charge according to the quality of the article wrought, or the labour bestowed upon it The black-cattle of Barray are very good. The stock reared by the proprietor himself was considered as one of the best in the Highlands. The small horses reared by the crofters are much esteemed, both for their symmetry and hardiness ; of these they keep too many, to the detriment of their black-cattle, at the same time that they find them exceedingly useful for the manufacture of their kelp, and for leading sea-weed from their shores for manure, although a much fewer number might serve them for every use- ful purpose. No regular sheep stock had been introduced into this parish until last year, and those who are the best judges are of opinion, that no place in the Highlands is better adapted for the rearing of sheep than Barray. The prices of black-cattle have been, for a few years back, less than they formerly were, and have varied so much every year that it is hardly possible to state an average price. Corn, meal, and potatoes, are all sold here by measure ; never by weight. The boll of meal consists of twenty pecks ; the peck contains 5^ pints English liquid measure ; the country people,- however, have a measure among themselves, used nowhere else, which they call an omer^ containing two pecks. Po- tatoes are sold by barrel measure, containing 35 English gallons. Meal sells at Is. per peck, and potatoes at an average of 2s. per barrel. The imperial measure has not as yet been introduced into this parish, except in the case of spirits or other liquids. Husbandry. — As the parish is better adapted for grazing than agri- culture, it cannot be supposed that the latter has made much pro- gress. There are but few farms fit for a regular system of agricul- ture, and these are now let to graziers, who seldom crop much of their ground.- The chief part of the lands is let to small tenants in crofts, from year to year ; and it cannot be supposed that much improvement can be carried on in clearing or inclosing land, under such a precarious holding. Notwithstanding all the disadvantages under which they labour, they now turn their small patches of ground to much better purpose than they formerly did ; for every crofter has his own small plough and couple of ponies, with which he turns up his ground with much more ease and in a better style than under the old system with the machine called crom-na^ffaddj which required the labour of four men and three horses. By sim- plifying their agriculture, the people are now enabled to raise a 212 INVERNESS-SHIRE. sufficiency of corn and potatoes for their own consumption, un- less in very unfavourable seasons, such as the two last, when the most part of the Western Highlands suffered a destitu- tion similar to what they experienced. They plant their potatoes, in general, with the plough, when the ground admits of it ; and when it does not, they plant them with the dibble, and have returns of from 6fteen to twenty. The principal manure is sea-weed, which they lay upon the ground at all periods from November to the end of May ; but the earliest laid on always yields the best quality of potatoes. After their potato crop, crops ofbarley and oats succeed. Without giving the tenants a more permanent tenure of their lands by leases, making their crofits larger, and encouraging them in clearing, draining, and enclosing and following a more regular system of crofting than what has been hitherto pursued, — it is impossible to expect that any great improvement in their manage- ment can take place. The common buildings or dwellings of the peasantry are of a most miserable description ; the wall is formed of loose undressed stone, without mortar of any kind, the centre being filled up with common earth, roofed and covered over with divot and straw, bound together by heather ropes. There are neither windows nor chimneys. For the first, they have round holes in the thatch for admitting the light; and one or more holes on each side of the house, which are opened or shut, according as the wind blows ; and a hole in the roof for emitting the smoke of their peat-fires, which are placed in the middle of their bare earthen floor. In one end of this miserable habitation they live, with their cows and horses in the other, during the winter and spring seasons. The natives have little or no idea of cleanliness or comfort. They have seldom much furniture to boast of; some- times not a chair to sit upon, a bed to sleep on, or bed-clothes to cover them from the severity of the night air ; yet these very people resort to the dram-house as often as they can spare a shil* ling for that purpose. There are, however, some exceptions from this, in the conduct of those who have come to Barra from other countries* These have built for themselves more comfortable dwellings* They are more cleanly in their habits and dress, and far more industrious and of more sober habits than those they found on the spot ; and it is hoped that their example in this respect will have a salutary influence on the manners^ habits, and industry of their neighbours. Under the late proprietor of BARUAY. 213 Barray, the people enjoyed every comfort consistent with their rank and situation in life. He was remarkable for his kind treat- ment of them. Another great obstacle to the improvement of their lands, is the manufacture of kelp, at which the people are bound by their holdings to labour during the summer season, and even sometimes to the end of August, the fittest time for the im- provement of their lands, and attending to the management of the crop in the ground. Although this article of manufacture was a source fi*om whence the Highland proprietors derived great bene- . fit while it sold at high prices, and employed the people at remu* nerative wages, yet it has turned out in the end ruinous to both proprietors and tenants, — whose dependence had been placed much upon it. The tenantry have thus been reduced to the utmost po- verty ; and are unable to pay their high rents, and still less able to betake themselves to any other country by emigration. Colonel Macncil, the late proprietor, while he resided in the parish, (which he did for some years,) made some useful improve- ments in the farm of Eoligary, which he kept in his own posses- sion, by draining and inclosing. Fisheries. — Barray is perhaps one of the best fishing stations on the west coast, and might prove, were proper means taken, a considerable source of wealth. The people at present are too poor to carry on fishing on an extensive scale, from their in- ability to purchase or build boats capable of encountering the boisterous seas they have to contend with, or to provide sufficient materials for their fishing ; yet, under every disadvantage to which they are subject, they generally employ from 20 to 30 boats, of about three tons each, in the fishing, with five men to each boat ; but, from the smallness of their size, they are often unable to put to sea, or to carry on the employment systematically. They are, in some seasons, however, pretty successful when the weather is fa- vourable : and then they go with their own boats to Glasgow or Greenock, with what ling or cod they take. The people of Bar- ray were in former years very successful in harpooning cearbans or sail-fish, from which they extracted a good deal of oil, and receiv- ed a premium from the Board of Trustees for Fisheries ; but this productive source of wealth has been discontinued, from their in- ability to provide the necessary tackling; and although hundreds of these fishes appeared last season on the coast, no one was in a condition to take advantage of the circumstance. Barray was in 214 INVERNESS-SHIRE. former times much frequented by great shoals of herrings ; but its lochs are now almost entirely deserted by that useful fish. Produce. — The average amount of raw produce raised in this parish cannot with any degree of accuracy be ascertained, as the most part of the lands (as already stated) is let in small lots to tenants who require the whole crop they raise for their own con- sumption. Krlp. — The only manufacture now carried on in this parish . is that of kelp, in which all hands, young and old, are employed for about eight or nine weeks, at L.l, 15s. or L.2 per ton, but for which they formerly received L. 4, 4s. per ton. Kelp, which on former occasions, sold at from L. 1 6 to L. 20 per ton, is now re- duced to L. 2, 10s. or L. 4 per ton at market, from barilla and salt being used as substitutes for it. There are only fi)ur vessels belonging to this place, there being little or no trade to employ more. V. — Parochial Economy. Market^Tmon. — There is no market-town in the parish. The nearest to this is Tobermory, in the county of Argyle, distant fifty miles by sea. Means of Communication. — The only means of communication by post with Barray is by Dunvegan, in the Isle of Skye, where the nearest post-ofiice is established. There is, however, a re- ceiving-house at Lochmaddy, from whence the packet sails to Dunvegan once or twice a week. A letter from this must of course pass by the ferry from Barray to South Uist, through the whole length of South and North Uist to Lochmaddy receivirig- house, and from thence by the packet to Dunvegan Post-OfiiQe, a distance by sea and land, including ferries, of not less than 100 miles. The Commissioners for Lights employ a small vessel from Barray- Head Lighthouse, to sail to Tobermory once a month with the monthly returns, as a quicker conveyance than by Dunvegan. The country boats, too, ply at all seasons of the year to Glasgow with fish and such other articles as the country produces ; so that the communication with the mainland is pretty frequent. The harbours in Barray (as already stated) are extremely com- modious and safe, which should be a great inducement to the prosecution of the fishing upon a more extensive scale than has been hitherto attempted. Ecclesiastical State. — The parochial church, which was built only a few years ago, is situated in the very centre of the parish, BAURAY. 215 pretty close to the manse. It is about six miles from each extre- mity of the main island ; of course, convenient for the attendance of all the parishioners resident on the main island. All the seats are free. The manse was built in 1816, with offices and garden. The glebe is a grass one, sufficient for the grazing of sixteen soums of cattle. It is of considerable extent ; but much broken up by rocks and stones. The present incumbent has, however, converted a good deal of it into excellent arable land, which yields good crops. Its value at present may be about L. 40 per annum. The stipend is one of those augmented by Government to L. 150, ex- clusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There is one Roman Catholic Chapel in the parish ; the bishop under whose jurisdiction it is, resides in Greenock. The number of Protestant families in the parish is 65 ; the number of families attending the Roman Catholic Chapel is 306. Divine service is pretty well attended in the Established Church, as also in the Roman Catholic Chapel. The number of communicants in the Esta- blislied Church may average about 70. Owing to the poverty of the people, no contributions are made for charitable purposes; neither are there any collections in the church. Education. — The parochial is the only school now in the pa- rish. English and writing only are taught there at present, although the teacher is qualified to teach Greek, Latin, arithmetic, book- keeping, and geography ; but as the school has but lately been opened, there are no scholars as yet advanced farther than Eng- lish reading. The salary of the parish schoolmaster is L. 26, exclusive of L.2, 2s. in lieu of a garden. No school- house has been built as yet, but the school is accommodated in the meantime in a house which is not fitted to accommodate any tolerable number of the parishioners. The fees generally exacted are. Is. 6d. for Eng- lish ; 2s. for English and writing ; reading, writing, and arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; Latin, &c. ds. per quarter. The number of scholars at last examination amounted to 40. The clergyman keeps a private tutor for his own family, who teaches the highest branches of education. There was formerly a school in the parish supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, which has for some time back been sup* pressed, for want of requisite accommodations. There was like- wise a female school from the same Society ; but it is not taught at present, as the mistress has been superannuated for some years 216 INVERNESS-SHIRE. back. To accommodate the people of this parish with the requisite means of education, three schools are required. Few of the natives can either read or write. Most of the Pro- testants who come from other places, are, however, able to read the Scriptures, either in English or Gaelic. The number of Pro« testants in Barray, when the present incumbent came to the parish, did not exceed 60 souls ; now they amount to about 880. There is not, perhaps, a single parish in Scotland in which the minister is put to so much trouble and expense in at- tending to his ministerial duties. The Presbytery seat is about forty miles distant, exclusive of fords and ferries; he has to tra- vel about 100 miles to the seat of Synod, besides ferries ; and the expense of travelling in the Highlands is very great. Poor and Parochial -Flum/*.— The average number of poor up- on the roll is about 70. The only fund in the hands of the kirk*session for the relief of these, is the interest on an heritable bond of L.400, left by two tacksmen, natives of Barray, which is distributed among them annually, according to their necessities. There is no church collection made, nor has there been any as- sessment for the support of the poor as yet resorted to. The peo- ple are, in general, very kind to their poor, who live in small houses of their own, where they are supplied by those around them with the necessaries of life, and thus they are prevented from begging fi*om door to door, or even leaving the parish for subsistence. They, however, show no reluctance in applying for relief, nor do they consider it as any ways degrading to do so. Markets. — The only markets in Barray are held in the summer and autumn seasons, for disposing of the surplus cows and horses to dealers from the mainland, who carry them to the southern mar- kets. Inns. — There are no fewer than three inns in the parish, where a great quantity of spirits is sold, the effects of which on the morals of the people are most pernicious. Fuel, — The only fuel used in Barray is peat, which is procured ffom a distance at great expense and trouble. Miscellaneous Obseryations. The face of the country has undergone a material change for the better, since the former Statistical Account was written. There are now excellent roads made through the greatest part of the Main Island, where a horse could then hardly walk. These roads were executed by the country people, under the Statute 3 BARRAY. 217 Labour Act : and they form an improvement of the highest conse- quence, as without roads no other improvement can be carried on. The state of the natives is truly deplorable, when compared with that of every other place, where education has found its way. The introduction of strangers into the parish has, however, given a spur to industry, to which the old inhabitants had little or no inclina- tion, their timQ having been chiefly occupied by boating and fish- ing during the best part of the spring season, and the tillage of their lands having been left to the women and children ; in con- sequence of which, the proprietor had annually to import a large quantity of low country meal to support his people during the sum- mer season, so as to enable them to manufacture the kelp : they now rai^ as much corn and potatoes as will supgly themselves, unless in very scarce years. The only way to render the people comfortable and industrious would be, to grant each tenant a larger portion of lands than what be presently possesses, as he could manage that with the same number of hands, and the same number of horses which he re- quires for the small lot ; and to grant the tenants a more permanent holding of their lands, by leases of nine or ten years, with stipula- tions for improvements, and other regulations. Rents should be paid in money instead of services, and such services as the land- lord requires ought to be commuted for an adequate sum in money, and every shadow of vassalage done away. Rents should be re- duced to a conformity with the real value of the lands, and ade- quate compensation given at the end of their leases for every use- fill and permanent improvement The tenants should be encourag- ed to build more comfortable houses for themselves, and their cow- houses should be separated : and each tenant should have a kit- chen-garden attached to his house, well fenced round with stone wall. Another great benefit to the parish would be the es- tablishment of a more constant communication with the mainland, by means of a regular packet boat, — which would enable the peo- ple to hold more regular intercourse with other countries, and so to have some insight into the manners, habits, and industry of other people. Were these improvements attended to, and due encourage- ment given to prosecute the fisheries, there is hardly a doubt that this small portion of the Western Islands might rival in wealth and happiness, any country of the same extent in the Highlands of Scotland. January 1840. INVERNESS. T PARISH OF PORTREE. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. COLL MACDONALD, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of the parish is Ceilltarraglan. In the Gaelic language, Ceill signifies a btirying-ground, taVj bottom, and gleann^ a glen ; Ceiltarraglan then signifies a burying-- ground placed at the bottom of a glen^ and no name can be more appropriate. The modern name of the parish is Portree, compounded of two Gaelic words, port signifying a harbour, and righ^ a king, the King's Harbour. This name was given to the parish in consequence of King James the Fifth, when on an aquatic excursion through this northern part of his dominions, having anchored and remained for some time in the harbour of Portree. Extent. — This parish is about 17 miles long, 12 miles broad, and contains 204 square miles. It is bounded on the north by the pa- rish of Snizort ; on the south by the parish of Strath ; on the east by that arm of the sea which separates it from the parishes of Gair- loch and Applecross ; and on the west by the parish of Bracadale. Topographical Appearances. — It is an oblong figure, and none can possibly be more irregular, being indented in various places and at short distances by arms of the sea. From the southern to the northern extremity, a glen runs through nearly the centre of the parish, and on each side of this glen, and along the whole length of it, there is a range of hills of various heights and dimensions. The most remarkable of these, is that which is distinguished by the name oi aite suidhe Fhin^ the sitting place of Fingal; where tradition says that hero sat, directing his followers at the chase. This hill rises with an ascent less or more gentle from the head of Loch Portree to the height of upwards of 2000 feet from the level of the sea ; and on the east side of the harbour of Portree, and nearly as high, stands the hillof Peindinavaig, the name of which signifies the hill of protection. To the south of this hill, and to. the north o! Loch Sl^ichan, stands the hill of Beioligh, which is not ISLAND OF SKYE — PORTREE, 219 quite 80 high as those above-mentioned. On the south side of Loch Sligichan stands the hill of Glamaig, of nearly equal height with the hills of Cullins in its immediate neighbourhood. At the top of Glamaig, there is a green plot of considerable extent, in the centre of which there is a spring which discharges an immense quantity of the purest and most salubrious water. With the ex- ception of Glamaig, a part of the top and sides of which is stripped of the soil by the heavy rains and high winds to which it is exposed, these hills are covered with the finest verdure from their bases to their summits. They abound with small rivulets and the best springs imaginable. They afford good pasture to both sheep and cattle, and, from the circumstance of these hills being almost surrounded by sea water, the pasture is not only abundant but salubrious to all the animals which frequent them. On the sea side in different places, both on the mainland part of the pa* rish and in the island of Rasay, there are small caves of various dimensions. With regard to these, there appears nothing worthy of particular attention, excepting that they furnish places of re- sort to the wild pigeons and water-fowls, which frequent the sea shore. The coast of this parish is of great extent. Along the shore, it frequently rises into grand, lofty, and almost perpendicular rocks, towering towards the skies. In some places, and more especially at the heads of lochs, the coast sinks almost into a level with the sea at high water. When the sea admits of examining the coast, it appears to be in some places sandy, in some muddy, in some clayey, and not un- frequently rocky. The principal bays inihis parish are Loch Inord, Loch Sligi- chan, the bay of Belmeanach, the bay of Camistinavaig, Loch Portree, together with the Big Harbour, and Dry Harbour, and several small bays in the island of Rasay. In no quarter of the world is the temperature of the atmosphere more variable than in this parish. All the changes of frost, snow, rain, storm, and dead calm, are frequently experienced in the short period of twenty-four hours. As might naturally be expected, the variable and humid state of the atmosphere in all seasons of the year is found highly injurious to the human constitution, and pro- duces among the inhabitants many diseases, — rheumatism, asthma, fever, and consumption. Hydrography .— k branch of the Atlantic Ocean divides Rasa^^ 220 INVERNESS-SHIUE. Uona, and other small islands belonging to Macleod of Rasay, from the great body of the parish. This arm of the sea runs along the whole length of the parbh, and is of various breadth and depth. It has, at all times, a sufficient depth of water to make it navigable to a first-rate ship of war. From the immense quantity of fresh water discharged into it from the adjacent hills of Rasay and Portree, together with the great admixture of soil carried into it by the rapid streams rushing from the neighbouring high-grounds with which it is surrounded, the water frequently, and more especially near the shore, acquires a dark and reddish colour; but in the summer season,- and when the weather has been for any length of time dry, the water along the coast is perfectly clear, and transparent as crystal. Near the shore, those arms of the sea, which in various places intersect the parish, are quite shallow, but as they recede from high* water mark, they acquire great depth, and a much greater degree of saltness ; but this latter quality is much less nearer the shore, from the immense quantity of fresh water which is discharged from the rivers and lakes which abound in the parish, and in its immediate vicinity. In this same channel, which divides Rasay and its ap- pending small isles from the main body of the parish, and more especially in spring tides, the current is most rapid in the nar* rows, and so much so ihat it greatly impedes, and sometimes alto- gether suspends, the progress of vessels sailing in a contrary direc- tion. Springs of greater number, and more salubrious water, are not to be seen in any quarter, than in this parish. In every season of the year, they discharge inexhaustible streams of the purest, the sweetest, and most wholesome water. Indeed, in the driest summer season, scarcely any of them is found to fail in fiimish- ng an abundant supply both for the use of animals and of the human species. Though none of the springs is of any great mag- nitude, their immense number amply compensates for this defi- ciency. They are found on the very summits of high hills, — they are seen on plain and level ground, — they frequently issue from the sides of hills, — they make their passage for the most part through a vast extent of gravelly soil, which is the soil most pre- valent in this parish, — and they are seen sometimes to spout from the fissures of black and flinty rocks. There are six fresh-water lakes in this parish, — the whole of them of different dimensions, ISLAND OF SKYE — PORTREE. 221 and the largest not above a mile long. With the exception of one, they all abound with trouts, — ^the fish of which is most nutri- tbus and agreeable to the taste. Round and about the edges or borders, the water is quite shallow. Towards the centre, they are sujppoised to be of very considerable depth. The soenery all around these lakes and their vicinity, is most romantic and beautiful. In some places, they are surrounded with high and perpendicular rocks ; in other places, as in Rasay, they are fringed with clumps of natural wood, and from them may be seen the grand, the picturesque hills of CuUins, in the parish of Bracadale, and Store, in the parish of Snizort, so much, of late years, a subject of admiration to travellers and scientific persons. From a lake in Rasay in a clear day may be seen all the hills on the mainland of this parish, and to the point of Hunish, and all the expanse of sea betwixt and the Island of Lewis. The rivers in this parish are not of considerable magnitude. They take their source from fresh-water lakes situated in the interior of the pa- . rish, or in a neighbouring parish ; and in time of heavy rain, which, in this quarter, is of no rare occurrence, they receive a vast addition to their body of water, from rain falling on the high hills, rushing down the sides with amazing rapidity, and overflow- ing their usual channeb and banks. These streams, meeting with obstructions in their descent from rocks, stones, and other superficial inequalities, often spread over a great portion of a hill, and, as they proceed, foaming and purling in all directions, they form one of the grandest scenes imaginable. All the rivers in this parish run in diflerent directions, and discharge themselves into various arms of the sea. The only cascade worth mentioning, is that which falls from one of the lakea in the northern extremity of the parish^ and is thrown from a projection of a rock many feet high ; and at the bottom of the rock, and betwixt the rock and the waterfall, several persons might walk abreast without being touched by the water in its fall. There are other smaller cascades in the parish. Geohgy and Mineraloffy. — About forty years ago, Lord Mac- donald, principal heritor of the parish, attempted to work a coal mine, in two different parts of the parish. He was at the expense of getting a number of hands from the low country, experienced colliers ; but, after repeated trials, from the smallness of the vein, and the great difiiculty of working it, imbedded as it was under high 222 INVERNKSS-SHIRE. rocks and below high-water mark, it was ultimately discovered that the quantity of coal procured would pay but a small propor- tion of the expense incurred. The work was then abandoned, and has never since been resumed. In different parts of the parish, but more especially in the island of Rasay, there is a species of granite, which, though not of equal transparency with that of Aberdeen, is still of a very valuable quality. It is of a very hard consistency, and most useful, as mill-stones are made of it, which are most suitable for grinding oats and barley ; and with these, all the mills in the island and in the adjacent parishes in the mainland are supplied. They are found in large thick blocks be^ low high-water mark, lying horizontally ; and after they are form^ ed and dressed by a mason, they are sold at from L. 9 to L. 12 Sterling per pair, according to size and quality. On both sides of the harbour of Portree, there are immense high and almost per- pendicular rocks, formed of freestone, which, though not of the very best quality, being rather soft, is used in building, and serves as guards for chimney-heads and comer-stones. But in the island of Rasay, there is a freestone of the best quality and in the greatest abundance. Some years isigo, it was made use of in building a most elegant house by the late proprie- tor of that estate. In the district of Sconcer, there is an inex* haustible quantity of limestone. Both limestone and freestone are covered with different kinds of deposits, s^uch as sand, loam, clay» but more frequently with gravel. The quality of soil most common in this parish is gravelly, though^ not unfrequently, sheets of deep moss are interspersed between the hills. The soil in every part of the parish is wet and spouty. Even in places which appear dry, springs of the finest water are found to rise, and consequently on the low grounds the grass is intermixed with watery plants and herbs, and these scarce furnish any food for animals. They wither and decay very early in the season. Zoology. — With the exception of some deer in Lord Macdonald^s deer forest at Sconcer, there are no animals in this, but such as are common to all other Highland parishes. The breed of cattle is small but hardy ; and, for the most part, they lie out, exposed to the inclemency of the weather, at all seasons of the year. They are scantily fed in winter with straw, and, consequently, in the months of March and April, they are low in condition, and very much emaciated. As soon, however, as the moss grass, the kind ^ ISLAND OF SKYE — POKTBEE. 22S of pasture most common in the parish, comes on in the spring of the year, they acquire strength, agility, and condition. They are much looked after, and in high estimation with deal- ers in cattle from the southern parts of the empire ; and when pastured for any length of time in the south of Scotland or Eng- land, they grow to a much larger size, and their flesh is found to be superior in point of taste and flavour. The sheep in the pa- rish, till within the last twenty or thirty years, was the old High- land breed, verj* small in size ; but the fineness of their wool ap- proached, or was nearly equal to that of the Cheviot sheep, and the quality of their flesh was far superior. The old native sheep of this parish are now crossed with the black-faced sheep of the south country, and have degenerated much from the original stock, both in regard to flesh and wool, though they have certainly improved much in size. The horses possessed by the small te- nants are very small, but hardy ; easily fed ; and never housed in winter. They are served with little hand-feeding in the fields, and still they maintain their condition, so as to be able to work in the spring season of the year. This facility in feeding and supporting the small breed of horses, induces the small tenants and cottars, in some instances, to keep too many of them, and thereby greatly to injure their other and more valuable stocks. As to hogs and goats, of the former there are very few in the pa- rish ; and Liord Macdonald has, for many years pa<»t, prohibited the latter to be kept on his property, as they were considered by him highly injurious to wood plantations. The rivers lakes, and sea coast all round the parish, abound with various kinds of fishes, and all of the most delicious and nutritive qualities. In the chan- nel which separates Rasay from the. main body of the parish, and on all sides of the Island of Rasay, cod, ling, lythe, skate, had- docks, whitings, cuddies, flounders, and herrings abound. In the rivers and estuaries, there is salmon. Salmon does not go up the rivers in this parish, till late in the month of July ; and even then they show every disposition to return in a short time, and before the channel of the rivers dries up. They seem also to anticipate a change from dry to rainy weather, as, a short time previous to rain, they are- seen in numbers at the entries of rivets, and the moment rain comes on, and a sufficient depth of water to aflbrd them a passage, they rush up with the greatest rapidity ; but at this period, salmon show a great discernment in perceiving the 224 INVERNESS- SHIRE. approach of dry weather, when they run back into the sea with equal care and dispatch. It appears to be the opinion of Bshermen, that saUnon do not remain in rivers, though they occasionally ascend till they b^in to spawn in the latter end of the month of September. When they commence this operation, they continue at all hazards, disregarding every danger in deep pools of water in the rivers, till the work is completed in the month of December ; and then they are so much emaciated and enfeebled, that they are per- ceived to move slowly and with much difficulty in the water, and they never recover their condition till they return to the sea in the month of December, some sooner and spme later. Botany. — There are in this parish some herbs that are bene* ficially employed in curing diseases, such as burdock, tussilago, (Filius ante patrem). This last is usefully employed in cases of cough, asthma, and consumption. In the Island of Rasay, as well as about the village of Portree, there are small plantations of wood in a very thriving condition ; indeed, more rapid growth cannot be seen in any part of the low country of Scotland* The plantations consist of Scotch fir, larch^ birch, ash, oak, alder, and some others. Larch is the kind most suitable to the soil, as it appears to thrive better than any of the other kinds of wood. The greater part of these plantations are only a few years old, and therefore the trees cannot be of any great size. At Rasay» however, and near the mansion-house, there are old trees of con- siderable size, such as are seen in the vicinity of towns, castles, and in forests, either in the Highlands, or in the low country of Scotland. And it appears to be a matter which admits of no doubt, that, in a place such as this parish, where there are so many localities favourable to the growth of timber, no improve- ment whatever could be more profitable, or of greater advantage both to proprietors and tenants, than the planting of wood. This, however, under existing circumstances, is a matter more to be wished for than expected. II. — CivcL History. Land-owners. — The Right Honourable Lord Macdonald and Macleod of Rasay, are the only land-^owners in the parish. Parochial Register. — A parish register of births and marriages was commenced in the year 1800, but discontinued six years ISLAND OF SRYE — POUTREE. 225 thereafter. It was resumed five years from that date. From a va- riety of causes which could not be prevented, it has hitherto beeu irregularly kept. Mantion^Houie. — In Rasay, there is a very splendid modem house, of the most elegant architecture, — built by the late proprie- tor. The front of the house has a very superb appearance, and is oonstructed of freestone found in the place. There is also a large and commodious church in the village of Portree, which was erected about sixteen years ago, and is now in excellent repair. IIL— PoPULATIOr?. In th^ absence of all written record, our information regarding the ancient state of the population must .be limited, and depend on vague and uncertain tradition. From this source, however, it appears that the people were very thinly spread over the whole ex- tent of the parish ; and though they lived in a rude, and almost savage state, they seldom suffered under the pressure of famine or destitution. Situate in localities remote from one another, each family had a sufficient extent of land to support a number of sheep and cattle. At the period to which we allude, the parish abounded with game of all sorts. In the rivers and estuaries, there was sal- mon in abundance ; and, being free from the restraints of the present game laws, the people may be said to have had a sufficiency of flesh, fish, milk, and venison. They cultivated small portions of the best part of the land, which yielded them some meaL It is, therefore, certain, that in old times, the people were more abundantly supplied with the necessaries and comforts of life than they are at present. In Uie year 181 1 the amount of population was 2729 1821 . . 3174 1831 - - a441 By an enumeration since taken, • 4000 This number is diminished by from 500 to 600 souls, who emigrated to North America in the course of this and last sum- mer. The immense increase that has taken place in the number of the people, may be ascribed to the introduction of vaccine ino- culation — the subdivision of lands among the crofter-tenants, by which two or three families occupy one lot, and sometimes one house. Character of the People. — They are powerfully under the influ* ence of moral principle, so much so, indeed, that heinous crimes are seldom or ever seen or heard of among them. They are attach- 226 fNVKRNESSSHIRE* ed to their superiors — obedient to the laws — dutiful and loyal tc their sovereign — charitable to the poor, and hospitable to strangers. They are all of the Established Church of Scotland, and Brmly attached to her constitution, worship, and doctrine. So inviolable is their attachment, that lately some of them, hearing of the dis- putes which at this moment unfortunately disturb and agitate our venerable Church, and dreading that these arose from the ascen- dency and hostility of Roman Catholic or other sectarians, were beard solemnly to declare in presence of the writer of these pages, that sooner than the church of their fathers should suffer violence or change, and far less annihilation, they would suffer their heads to be cut off. But with all their admirable mental quali6cations, they labour under the greatest poverty, which never fails to carry along with it many disadvantages and many evils. And certainly, the want of cleanliness is not the least of these. From the great scarcity of timber, there being none 6t for use growing in the place, and the utter inability of the people to purchase and import wood, they are much at a loss for the necessary accommodations in regard to dwelling and other houses. The poor tenants are almost invariably under the necessity of having their cattle under the same roof with themselves without partition, without division, and without a chimney ; their houses, therefore, are smoky and filthy in the extreme; and, having little either of night or day clothing, and their children nearly approach- ing to absolute nakedness, they are fully as much without cleanli- ness in their persons as they are in their houses. No people on earth live on more simple or scanty diet, than those in this parish. The greater number of them subsist on potatoes of the worst kind, sometimes with, but oftener without fish. The language generally spoken in the parish is Gaelic From the facility of intercourse with the low country, by means of steam- navigation and Parliamentary roads, the people have acquired a taste for the English language, and are desirous to learn it. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — A complete survey of the whole parish has never been made, and consequently the number of imperial standard acres in cultivation cannot with accuracy be ascertained ; indeed the extent of arable land, compared to that of pasture or moorland, is so very inconsiderable, that it appears a matter of little or no importance whether it be ascertained with mathematical precision. ISLAND OF SKYE — PORTREE. 227 And scarce, very scarce, indeed, as arable land is, no speculation whatever could be more precarious and less pro6table than the conversion of either moor or pasture into arable land. The ex- pense attending such an operation would far exceed any advantage that could reasonably be expected from such a process. The soil, naturally barren and unproductive, is everywhere interspersed with springs and spouts of water, and to drain it to any extent would be an endless work. Even where draining was resorted to in a pretty regular and systematic manner, and when the land was allowed to remain for any length of time out of culture, it would, in the course of a few years, revert to its original raw, sour, and unproductive fitate, and all the expense incurred would be irredeemably lost ; and being kept in cultivation, the produce would fall far short of compensation for the time, trouble, and expense necessarily and unavoidably employed. The small patches of land cultivated by the cottar-tenants, though they are at some pains to improve them, often yield no more than two returns. Even on the supposition that a person would succeed, with much expense and labour, upon an improved system, to improve the lands in this parish, by drains, enclosures, and all other plans successfully pursued in the south country for bringing it into cultivation, — after all this, he would ul- timately be disappointed by the climate. It is very rare, indeed, that in this parish there is a favourable seed-time, and in harvest, heavy rains and strong gales of wind prevail, by which the corn crops are either lodged or shaken, and thus all the hopes of the husbandman are in a great measure frustrated. Top-dressing, which in other quarters is found a profitable improvement either for pasture or natural hay, would not pay on the sterile soil of the parish of Portree. As neither the lands nor the climate in this parish are suitable for agricultural purposes, so neither is the pas- ture land under the best arrangement. There is a great extent of hill grazing which is occupied as a common, not only by the small tenants to whose farms that common is attached, and by whom rent is paid for it, but also by cattle-dealers, and likewise by persons from every part of the island indiscriminately, who send cattle and horses to graze there in the summer months. This mode of tenure is productive of many disadvantages and evils ; it occasions disputes and quarrels among the immediate neighbours in possession ; it excites in their minds envy, anger, and even ma- lice one to another. It is highly injurious to the interest of the 228 INVERNESS-SHIRE. tenants, and equally prejudicial to that of the landlord ; it encou- rages and protects sheep-stealing ; and it is troublesome in the ex- treme to the neighbours in its immediate vicinity. The diffiQuU ties which occur in other parts of the country for dividing a com- mon in which different proprietors have an interest, some more and some less, and which require the interposition of the Supreme Court for allocating to each his due proportion, are not applicable to that here alluded to. It is altogether the property of one land- lord, and he might at once attach it to any farm he chose, or as best suited his interest. And, notwithstanding the &cility for divid- ing this common, and the many disadvantages and evils resulting from its undivided state, it has been continued undivided from one ge- neration to another, from time immemorial, till this very moment Wood — In this parish there is no natural wood growing, with the exception of a small quantity in the Island of Rasay, and even this was almost annihilated in the years 1836 and 1887; those years of memorable destitution, when the people, from the wet- ness of the season, were unable to secure their peats, and the wood was made use of as fuel. There is, however, a little still re- maining, which is of no other use than for building small houses for the poor people. There is a considerable extent in Rasay of planted wood, and about'a third of that extent around the village of Portree. The trees are, fir, ash, oak, birch, mountain-ash ; they are under good management as to thinning, pruning, and they ap- pear to be in a thriving state. Indeed, from all that can be seen, a more profitable improvement of land in this parish cannot, be aclopted than planting wood in certain favourable situations. Rent. — The arable and pasture lands are let together ; the rent of the former, therefore, per acre, cannot be ascertained. For every sheep clipped, whether young or old, the grazier pays at the rate of 4s. each per annum ; and for every cow L. 2 Sterling ; in both cases the expense of management is included. Wages. — The rate of payment to men-servants employed in agricultural pursuits is from L. 5 to L. 10 Sterling per annum, and to female-servants from L. 3 to L. 4 Sterling for the same period, together with bed, board, and washing. A mason and house-carpenter receive at the rate of from 2s. 6d. to Ss. per day. But there is so little mechanical work carried on in the parish, that persons bred to these occupations are often, and for a great ISLAND OP SKYE — PORTREE. 229 part of the year, without employment, so that a tradesman is not at the end of the year in possession of more comfort, or in better circumstances, than a common labourer. Live-stocks — The greatest attention is now paid to the improve- ment of both cattle and sheep, and the labours of the great Highland and Agricultural Society in Scotland, together with the local associations formed, after the constitution of that society, and adopt- ing its plans, are most instrumental in accomplishing this desirable purpose. The prizes annually awarded by those to meritorious and successful rearers, — the easy intercourse by means of Parliamentary and district roads, together with the facility of communication by steam navigation with other parts of the country, where both skill and capital are employed in the rearing and improvement of live- stock, — contribute their share in this parish to produce the same beneficial effect. Husbandry, — The kind of husbandry prevalent in this parish, is performed with the crooked spade ; an instrument most awkward in appearance and operation, but none is better fitted for the land. For here, the land is for the most part hanging on steep braes and precipices, and encumbered with rocks and ponderous stones. In these circumstances, it is evident that the plough coulc| never be employed, and the straight spade, which is made use of in other parts of the Highlands, is far more fatiguing to the workman, and, with the same exertion, would not perform half the work in the same period of time. But the most painful of all the operations is the finishing part After the ground is turned up with the crooked spade, and the seed sown, a male, or more frequently* a female, takes a kind of hand-harrow, and with this the person works with both hands backward and forward, up and down, till the whole surface is made quite smooth, and all the hollows ren- dered completely level : or otherwise, a person gets a small har- row made of light wood, to which he fixes a rope, which he takes in his hand, and over his shoulder or round his breast, and, by dragging it after him, he harrows and finishes his land. This mode of working is peculiar to those who have small divisions of land, and cannot keep horses ; but these are by far the greater number. It is quite obvious that such tenants as these can never improve land. On the^ contrary, they are constantly in arrears to the proprietors, and frequently to the amount of two and some- times three years rent The poverty of the people is an insur- 230 INVELINKSS-SHIRE. mountable obstacle in the way of any rural improvement To per- sons in such low circumstances a lease would be of no advantagef and as little would the proprietors be disposed to grant them one. In the whole parish, there is only one farm held on lease. Fisheries^ — There is a kind of stake salmon-Bshing in the pa- rish. The tenant is a south countryman, in company with some others. They hold the whole fishing on Lord Macdonald's pro- perty. The fish is cured in the village of Portree, and is sent off by steam for Glasgow, and sometimes thence for London. They pay a certain small rent for the whole fishing of five parishes. One of those stations is relinquished, as not paying the expense. The station in this parish is the next to that in point of success, and con- sequently cannot be productive to any profitable extent. There is no separate rent exigible for the fishing of it.^ The herring fishing, some years ago, was carried on here with considerable 8\|c- cess. In a fine evening in the month of July or August, when all the boats belonging to this parish, together with those belonging to the adjacent parishes of Glenelg, Lochalsh, Lochcarron, Ap- plecross, Gairloch, and Lochbroom, and with them boats belong- ing to vessels from fifty to seventy sails in number, appeared in the sound of Rasay, — a most delightful scene was exhibited. But the most agreeable and the most useful of all exhibitions was their return to the harbour next day, deeply laden with the rich- est and most delicious herrings. It is a matter deeply to be re- gretted, that the herring .fishing in this quarter has been much on the decline for several years pastj so much so, that failure in this branch of industry, together with other causes operating in- juriously, produced the ever-memorable destitution of the years J 836 and 1837. And were it not for the seasonable relief afford- ed by public contributions in every part of the British empire, both at home and abroad, the great body of the lower order of the community would have been swept off by the most appalling star- vation. Indeed, there is reason to fear that the herring-fishing will altogether disappear on the coast of this parish. This sta- tion was never so productive in herrings as were once Lochmad- dy in North Uist, Lochrog in Lewis, several arms of the sea in South Uist, and on the west side of the Isle of Skye ; and now in all these different localities, there is no fishing of any consequence. And why may not that happen also on the coast of this parish ? And should that unfortunately be the case, what will become ISLAND OF SKYE — FORTBEE. 23t of its immensely redundant/population, already sunk in the low- est degradation of misery and poverty ? This is a matter high- ly deserving the most serious attention and consideration of all those having influence and power ; and it cannot fail to af- ford the highest satisfaction to every well-regulated mind, to see the efforts now made by noblemen, proprietors, and others connected with the HigMands of Scotland, for transferring the poor and labouring classes of the community in these districts to the British colonies in North America, and more especially to Ca- nada. This appears to be the most eligible resort to the poor expatriated Highlander, in order to escape from his misery, to ac- quire comfort and independence, and where he will find employ- ment congenial to his habits and pursuits at home. The highest praise is due to Lord Macdonald for his liberality in this beneficent and patriotic enterprise, — he having this and last year expended large sums of money in conveying the poor people on his proper- ty (tenants or not tenants) to North America. And it is a matter devoutly to be wished, that other landed proprietors would follow his beneficent example, as well as the Legislature of the country, and thus provide comfortably for a noble race of men, — strengthen the hands of the local government in the American colonies, — and for ever put an end to disaffection to the state in that quarter. V. — Parochial Economy. ^ Markets, — The village of Portree is the only place in the pa- rish in which markets are held for the sale of black-cattle. The population is nearly 300, including those in its immediate vicinity. There are several shop-keepers in the place who import meal and other commodities for the use of the country people. To the village of Portree there is a steam*boat plying from Glasgow once a-week, with a short cessation in the winter season. An excel- lent road has been constructed from one extremity of the parish to another, under the direction of the Parliamentary Commission- ers for building bridges and making roads in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. This road is kept in repair by an assessment on the heritors of the county of Inverness. In the village there is a post-office, to which there is a post three times a week. Than the harbour of Portree there can hardly be a better. It is spacious enough to contain several hundred sail* It is shelter- ed on all sides, and from every wind that blows. From the very 232 INVERNESS-SHIRE. high lands with which it is surrounded, the entry can very easily be found in the darkest night. The holding ground is of deep clay, and so firm and strong that it is very seldom, indeed, that a vessel is driven ashore, — and even should that unfortunately hap- pen, if she escapes from two or three rocky points, she will only be cast on a clayey or sandy bank. It is a good outlet for any quarter of the globe. At the entry, there is a breakwater formed by the hand of nature, which makes it narrow, but, at the same time, the water is very deep and the rock perpendicular at the edge. There are other harbours in the parish, but none to be compared to that of Portree. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated in the vil* lage of Portree, at a distance of about two miles from the northern, and fifteen from the southern extremity of the parish, and conse- quently not only not convenient, but altogether inaccessible to the great body of the people. It was built about sixteen years ago, and is in an excellent state of repair. It will accommodate about 800 sitterF, and no payment is exacted from any of them. The manse was built about thirty years ago, and, as soon as any thing is wanted in the way of repair, it is immediately supplied by the liberal heritors of the parish, on the application of the incum- bent. The glebe is sufficiently extensive, and, for the most part, consists of moss and hill pasture. It is, however, very susceptible of improvement In its present state, it is worth L.20 Sterling per annum. In the course of a few years,]]and in the possession of a person able and willing to improve, it may be made doubly valuable. The amount of stipend is the minimum, — L.150 Ster- ling, payable partly by the heritors, and partly by the Grovern- ment. There is no Government church, but there is a missionary minister in the parish, on the establishment of the Committee of the General Assembly for promoting the knowledge of Christianity in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. His salary is paid by the Committee from the bounty annually allowed by the Crown for the reformation of the Highlands and Islands. There are no sectarians of any description in the parish. The attendance at the difierent preaching stations in the pa- rish is from 300 to 400 souls, but frequently less in bad weather, when the people have a great distance to travel. The number of communicants in the parish, of late years, has greatly diminished, from a kind of delusion among the people. They seem now, how- ISLAND OF SKYE — POUTREE. 233 ever, to come to a better understanding, and, from present appear- ances, there is reason to believe that the number of communicants will soon be considerably increased. Educatioru — In ibis parish, there are two parochial schools, one by a society in Glasgow, and two Gaelic schools. In the paro- chial school situated in the village, English reading, writing, English grammar, arithmetic, book-keeping, geography, Latin, and the elements of Greek, &c are taught. In the branch paro- chial school in Rasay, the elementary branches are only taught, and the same is the case in the Glasgow Society school. The pa- rochial teachers have all the accommodations to which they are by law entitled. The parochial school salary is the maximum, but the school- fees are only nominal. The people are so poor that they can scarcely afford to pay any fees ; and if the teacher insists on his right to receive fees from the scholars, their parents threaten to withdraw, and, in some instances, do actually withdraw their children from the school. As to the ex^iense of education in these schoolst there are no pupils in attendance from distant quarters. It is only the children in the immediate vicinity of the school that attend, and all the charges to which they are liable are the small sums ex- pended in buying books, and the trifle of school-fees which they occasionally pay. This is an expense to which they with reluc- tance subject themselves, as they are not by any means so desirous as could be wished to have their children educated. The blessing of education having been for the most part denied themselves, by their predecessofs, they are not particularly anxious to bestow it on their successors. There are two districts in this parish so remote, that they are inaccessible to the parochial and all other schools. These are the districts of Glenmore and the Braes. In the former of these places, 50 scholars might attend a school, and in the latter, from 60 to 100, under a well-educated and systematic teacher. In both these localities, a subscription school has been taught occasionally, but the teachers were invariably so little qua- lified to discharge the duties of their office, and the remuneration fDr their labours so very inadequate, that little progress has hitherto been made in promoting the important object of education, and, consequently, many instances of gross immorality occur among the people. At the same time, it is a matter of common observation, that profane swearing, intemperance, drunkenness, and the dese- INVBRNESS. Q 234 INVERNESS-SHIRE . cration of the Sabbath, are not so common as they were twenty or thirty years ago. Pool* and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor receiving aid is 89, and they receive from 2s. to 15s. each, and that only once a-year. ' The fund in aid of the poor arises from the in- terest of money, from the collection in the church, from occa- sional gratuities and benefactions by individuals, and from small sums exacted as fines from delinquents. The number of the poor has been on the increase annually, for Some years past They are sup- ported not so much from parochial funds or contributions, as they are by the charity and benevolence of their neighbours. The poorest of the people go about in the parish, and they are fed, and, in some instances clad, by the liberality of the inhabitants. It is only the most dire necessity that could ever induce the people to submit to the degradation of public begging; and nothing is so repugnant to their minds as to have their names inserted in the poor-tist of the i>ari$h. /Vi^»f««, — There is one jail in the parish, and it has been occu- pioil for tho last year by sixteen offenders, eleven for riotous con- duot« four for housebreaking and theft, and one for forgery. The y\\\ huH biHMi most insecure for some time past, and this has been l\illv evinced by the circumstance, that some prisoners have broken ihrtkugh it and made their escape. And certainly it is no matter uf surprise, that every possible effort should be made by them for that purpose, when the bad treatment to which they are subjected is taken into consideration. Into the jail they are thrown without bed, without bedding, without fire, and with but a small allowance for their subsistence. By the humanity, however, and charity of some benevolent persons in the neighbourhood, these privations have been partly alleviated, if not removed. The jail has a keeper, who has a certain small allowance made to him annually for his trouble by the county of Inverness. And the general superintendence is committed to the sheriff-substitute of the district of Skye, who holds his courts in the court room of the jail. Fairs. — There are three fairs held in the parish, one in the month of May, one in the month of July, and one in the month of November. The two former for the sale of black-cattle, and the latter for hii-ing servants, and for transacting other country busi- ness. Inns. — For the accommodation of persons who attend these ISLAND OF SKYE — PORTREE. 535 fairs, as well as travellers and others, there is an excellent public- house in the village of Portree. There is another public-house in the district of Sconcer. Both these inns are kept by very re- spectable individuals, and, in so far as the writer has been able to learn, they have no pernicious effects on public morals. PueL — The fuel chiefly used in this parish is peat Every family may cut as much out of a peat bank as will serve them throughout the year. This they do in the commencement of the dry weather, in the months of April or May. And, as this operation is performed by the people at a time when they would otherwise be idle, it may be said to cost them no money. Miscellaneous Observations. On the surface of the parish, the greatest change has been produced by the Parliamentary and other district roads throughout the parish. In the architectural department, some very important variations have taken place. Since the date of the old Statistical Ac- count the elegant house of Rasay, the house occupied by Lord Mac- donald's chamberlain at Portree, the bank-house built by the National Bank of Scotland, the jail, and several other houses erected in the village by Lord Macdonald and other individuals, together with the church and manse, are all constructed. The parish is rather a pastoral than an agricultural district. To produce the greatest advantage, therefore, to proprietor and te- nants, it should be cut into sizable farms, with distinct boundaries to each, and of sufficient extent to support a family. These farms should be let on leases of from fifteen to twenty years endurance, and given to persons who have a sufficient capital to stock, and skill to manage them. But with the present immense population, in a place without commerce, without manufactures, without agriculture, and without any kind of permanent employ- ment for the people, no system that can be adopted will render them comfortable. To accommodate the people, the proprietors have tried many experiments. Previous to the year 1811, almost all the farms on Lord Macdonald's property in this parish were held in common, or, as it is termed, on runrig. About that period, finding that the people were rapidly increasing in number, and a great demand among them for land, with few exceptions, all the farms in pos- session of small tenants were cut into lots or crofts, and each of these was let to a family. In the course of a few years, a tenant 236 INVERNESS-SHIRE. on a lot had a son, who, in opposition to every advice that could be given him, by parents, relatives, and friends, would, whether right or wrong, be married. To provide for this son, his wife, and his family, there was no other alternative than to give him a share of the lot. The same individual lotter has a daughter, to whom some young man becomes attached ; marriage is proposed and agreed upon ; but in the matrimonial contract, it is express- ly stipulated, that this new ally of the family shall have an esta- blishment on the lot. Thus on one portion of land, too small for the support of the original, there are now three families. It is easily seen that the si- tuation of these must be poor in the extreme. The proprietors show every kindness and indulgence. Their rents are not rigidly exacted at a term. There are instances of tenants being allowed to remain in arrear, some two, some three, and some even four years. It is, however, perfectly evident that no liberality on the part of proprietors can render the present immense surplus population in any measure comfortable. And there is, humanly speaking, no other way to provide for them than by emigration ; though cer- tainly, it would be for ever a matter of deep regret, that so noble a race of men should be under the necessity of leaving their native land and seeking an asylum on a foreign shore. But, as they are unable to effect this by any means within their own reach, they should be conveyed to any British settlement which may be thought eligible — all the expense defrayed, and lands provided for them in their adopted settlement, by the Government of the country. January 1841. ISLAND OF SKYE. PARISH OF KILMUIR. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENEL6. THE REV. ROBERT MACGREGOR, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Kilmuir is the most northern parish in the island of Skye. The name signifies the " Church of Mary," and is de- rived from the Gaelic words Ci//, a chapel, or burying-ground, and Muire, Mary. The parish of old was frequently desig- nated St Mary's, as may be seen in Martin's History of the Isles, and in other ancient documents. Although the whole civil parish is now comprehended under the name Kilmuir, yet in former times only a small district of it went under that denomina- tion, viz. that in which the parish church was formerly built. The parish originally consisted of a variety of Ci7&, which were dedi- cated to their respective tutelary saints, such as Kileana, Kilmar- tin, Kilmorie, Kildorais, Kilmaluag, Kilvaxter, Kilbride, &c. to each of which was attached a portion or district of the parish. Boundaries. — Kilmuir being a section of the northern end of Skye, is bounded for the most part by sea, viz. on the north, by the channel which intervenes between Skye and the islands of Lewis and Harris, commonly called the Minsh ; on the east by the sound of Gairloch ; on the south, by the parish of Snizort ; and on the west, partly by the Minsh, and partly by Loch Snizort The dimensions of the parish vary considerably, and its almost semicircular form is rendered very irregular by a variety of small indentations and promontories. The extreme points of it may be distant in a straight line about 16 English miles ; its breadth, taken at right angles, varies from 6 to 10 miles ; and it is supposed to contain about 50 square miles. The centre of the parish is in la- titude 57'' 34' north, and in longitude 6° 15' west. * Drawn up by Mr Alciander Macgrcgor, A. M. licentiate of the Church of Scotland, and son of the incumbent. 238 INVEUNESS-SHIRE. Topographical Appearances.-^liWvanxr is in a manner bisected by the extremity of a range of hills, which passes through it and the ad- jacent parishes of Snizortand Portree. The highest may be com- puted to be about IfiOO feet above the level of the sea. There is a variety of small hills, which are principally green, forming in some parts little glens through which small rivulets run to the sea; in other parts, they cause the formation of little lakes, of which there are many in the parish. These little hills are, also, in some places totally di« vided from the rest of the mountains, and, from their isolated and conical appearance, there are to be found here and there truly pictu- resque scenes. There is one hill in particular, to the top of which the access is easy by a gentle acclivity, while it is found abruptly to terminate in a huge perpendicular precipice about 600 feet high, overhanging a dark circular lake of great depth. This rock affords a secure nestling-place to eagles and other birds of prey. One scene in this parish — that of Quiraing — must be particu- lurly noticed. This remarkable formation of nature consists of a secluded piece of level and fertile ground, which is concealed in the face of an almost inaccessible precipice. The hill in which it is situated, is about 1000 feet in height, and slopes by a steep de- clivity towards the west ; but towards the north-east, it presents a face of rugged precipices, much variegated by being here and there composed of huge basaltic columns, or massy fragments of fluted rocks. In other parts, large spaces, formed into concave sections, present themselves to the view, and have a majestic ap« |)earance, from being ribbed transversely either by small fissures, or protuberant seams, over which a little rivulet drizzles in moist seasons of the year. In the face of this huge precipice, then, Quiraing is enshrined, and entirely hidden from the view of the visitor. This interesting spot consists of a green plot of ground, formed into an oblong platform of sufficient extent to contain six or seven regiments of soldiers. It is studded all round with mas- sive columns of rock, rising up in lofty peaks, by the intervention of deep chasms, which are for the most part inaccessible. On ap- proaching the great inlet to the eagerly looked-fbr platform, the passage is much obtruded by heaps of stone and rubbish, which have been washed down from the crevices by the gradual waste of successive ages. When these obstacles are overcome, the visitor finds himself at the entrance of a steep passage, which would seem to lead to the top of the hill. To the right of this entrance ISLAND OP 8KYE — KILMUIR. 239 stands an isolated pyramid of rock, called the Needle. By considerable exertion the tourist gains the top of the pass, and be- holds with indescribable wonder the scene which opens to his view ! Instead of seeing, as he would expect, some narrow cave, he beholds a spacious opening before him, in the centre of which stands the above-mentioned platform. By descending a short dis- tance, and threading his way by a small path, he is instantly led to the beautiful green plain which it was all along his object to at- tain. He now feels utterly bewildered, and quite at a loss what to examine first, or to admire most ! He beholds the rocks frown- ing aloft, and the rugged cliffs ranging themselves in circles around him. Rocky pyramids, like a bulwark, encompass the fairy plain on which he stands. All is felt to be a dreary solitude ; yet there is a pleasing beauty in the silent repose. The golden eagle is seen soaring aloft in the blue firmament. A panoramic view of the distant sea and district below is visible, only in detached frag- ments, through the rugged clefts and chasms between the sur- rounding pyramids. The rocks which compose these huge co- lumns are so streaked and variegated, that the visitor's imagination cannot fail to delineate hundreds of grotesque figures, of the wildest description, on their surface. The nature of the day on which this interesting place is visited has a great effect upon its appearance. It is so studded and encompassed with columns and pinnacles, of all heights, sizes, and figures, that their flickering shadows, on a sun- shine day, have an enchanting effect on all who behold them I Light and shade are then so uncommonly divided, and so con- stantly changing positions, that the place, in consequence, is greatly enhanced in beauty. But -ehould a dense mist envelope the spot, as is frequently the case, the scene is greatly changed. Instead of being lively and enchanting, a night-like gloom falls over it, like a shroud of darkness ! The thick mist slowly floating through the pyramids, and concealing their rugged pinnacles from the view, gives a sombre appearance to the whole ! The visitor's imagination will lead him to think that the gloomy pyramids be- fore him bind earth and Heaven together ! He cannot but ad- mire ; yet, at the same time, he is filled with a sort of awe, which causes him to ascribe the niarvellous works which lie shrouded be. fore him, to the wonderful doings of that Omnipotent Being who created all things ! The cultivated part of the parish is a kind of circular belt along its shores, about two miles of average breadth. It is naturally di- 240 INYRRNBSS-SHIRE, vided into three districts, that of Kilmuir, of Kilmaluag, and of Steinscholl or East-side. The surface of each of these districts is almost wholly seen at one view from either extremity. The coast is bold, high, and rocky. Its extent, owing to the vast num- ber of small bays and headlands, is supposed to be no less than forty miles. In many places, the land is hemmed in by tracks of lofty and perpendicular precipices, most regularly formed into large parallel, square, round, and triangular pillars of basalt. There are varieties of small caves to be found concealed among these columns. In one place, there is a little spar-cave; and in another, there is one known by the name of Udmh an dir^ — " the cave of the gold," respecting which several traditions are afloat among the natives. None of these caves, however, is pos- sessed of peculiarities worthy of any lengthened observations. Headlands, — The principal headlands are, Rutha-chuirn-leith, Rutha Bhorniskittaig, Rutha-hunish, Rutha-bheannachain, Rutba- ghara-fada, and Rutha-nam-braithrean. The principal bays or lochs are those of Cammusmore, Duntulm, Kilmaluag, and Al- tivaig or Staffin, none of which afford a safe anchorage, with the exception of Duntulm. Islands. — The principal islands are, lasgairor Yesker, Fladda- chuain, Tulm, Trodda, Altivaig, and Fladda. Of these Trodda is tho most extensive and valuable. With the exception of Flad- da-chuain, tho second largest of the group, none of them possess any remarkable peculiarities. They are all uninhabited, being uieroly rented for grazing by tacksmen, who look upon them as useful appendages to their ikrms. Fladda-chuain is about six miles from the nearest part of Skye, and is about three-fourths of a mile in length, and three hundred yards in average breadth. Tho quality of its grass is remarkably fine, and perhaps superior to any in the parish for pasturing a few sheep. It is surrounded by four lesser islands, which are capable of rearing only two or three sheep a piece. It is a remarkable feet, that in this little island, which is so far from any other land, and situated in the midst of a very salt, deep, and rapid channel, there are two or three fresh water springs. In former ages, it was inhabited by a family or two, who had a considerable portion of it under cultiva- tion. Although so remote and distant from the shore, it was an- ciently the site of a Druidical place of worship, which will be af- terwards mentioned. It is a curious phenomenon, well worthy the attention of tho naturalist, that such animals as the toad. ISLAND OF SKYK KILMUIB. 241 firog, mouse, rat, snail, &c. can have no existence in it, although all the other islands of the parish abound with them. It is credi- tably reported, that mice have been carefully carried thither several times for experiment, but upon landing them that they instantly died.. Names of Hamlets^ Sfc^ — In this and in most other parishes of the Hebrides the names of hamlets, hills, bays, promontories, &c« are evidently, for the most part, of Scandinavian origin. In some cases, however, Gaelic roots with Scandinavian terminations, and vice versa, are to be met with. It is a remarkable fact, that the names given to certain localities by the natives of a foreign land, have been retained for so many ages and generations, as is the case here and elsewhere. When the prevalence of Scandinavian names is taken into consideration, and the great disproportion which they bear to those of Celtic origin, it will appear evident, that the number, power, and influence of the aboriginal popu- lation was but small in comparison with that of the Norwe- gian invaders. Most promontories end with the termination '* nish," which must be the same with the French " nez," the Latin *^ nasus," the English ^* nose," the Gaelic ^^ innis," an island or promontory, all meaning the projecting feature. We have therefore Hunish, Vaternish, Skernish, &c In other parts of Scotland, such places have the termination ^* uess," as Strom- ness, Tarbetness, Buchanness, &c. The barony of Troternish seems evidently to derive its name from Trodda, a sms^^U island which is situated near the northern point of it, and the termination " nish," — that is Trodda-ni^A, now pronounced Troternish, the point or territory of Trodda. A great variety of places terminate in *' host," as Orbost, Libost, Skeabost, Carbobt, &c. ; so do a number in " burg," as Resaburg, Scuddeburg, &c. Many ham- lets end with ** garry," as Flodigarry, Osmagarry, &c; many with " latter," as Hunglatter, Seoglatter, &c. ; many with " shad- der," as Elishadder, Marishadder, &c. ; many with ** sta" and ^* stadt," as Shulista, Delista, Herbusta, Monkstadt, Brunistadt, &c. As has been already observed, many places derive their appellations from saint^ such as the followers of St Columba, and others ; but these, although frequently much corrupted, are pure- ly of Celtic origin. It is most remarkable, that no trace or vo- cable of the Scandinavian language is found, in any shape, in the language of the country, except names of hamlets and other loca- lities. The language of the inhabitants is purely Celtic. Meteorology, — As the parish is so much encompassed by sea. 24-i INVERNESS-SHIRE. the temperature of the atmosphere, although exceedingly variable, seldom descends very low. No meteorological tables have been kept in the parish, whereby the changes of temperature and varia* tions of climate might be stated with accuracy ; yet, it may be as- serted, generally, that the climate is very moist, rainy, and bois- terous. The mercury in the thermometer seldom falls below 25, or rises (with the exception, perhaps, of a few days in summer,) above 76° of Fahrenheit The barometer, however, indicates frequent and sudden changes in the pressure of the atmosphere. The mercury, which generally stands at or near 29^% has often been observed to rise or fall more than half an inch in the course of a day. The cold of winter is less intense, and the heat of summer less oppressive than in most other parts of the kingdom. Torrents of rain fall in all seasons of the year, and the moisture which descends in the Highlands of Scotland, in the form of snow, descends here, for the most part, in sleet and rain. For many years back, snow seldom lay on the ground above a day or two ; whereas, in former periods, severe snow storms were prevalent, and generally of long duration. In this respect, the seasons, from some unknown cause, have undergone a sensible ehange. Ow- ing to the prevalence of dampness, and the moist nature of the atmosphere, it is no easy matter to preserve polished iron, steel, and other metals free from rust. Knives, fire-irons, and all such utensils of polished metallic surfaces must be frequently rubbed or brushed, otherwise they would rust in a single day, unless kept in places heated by constant fires. The frequent rains of the place can only be accounted for, from its vicinity and exposure to the Atlantic, the exhalations of which, appearing in dark clouds, are conveyed eastward by the westerly breeze, and are naturally attracted by the hills and mountains of the Hebrides in general. The most prevailing wind is the south-west ; and, from the cause already stated, it is generally attended with rain. This wind, by sweeping across the western ocean, is necessarily saturated with moisture ; and, while it passes from a warmer to a colder climate, naturally deposits its humidity on the first land which obstructs its course. From the effects of this wind the hopes of the hus- bandman are frequently blasted ; and if it happen to prevail in the ripening months of autumn, the fruits of his industry and labour are in danger of being destroyed. Wind from the opposite quar- ter, viz. north-east, though frequently cold, is for the most part dry. ISLAND or SKYE KILMUIR. 243 There is scarcely any thunder except in winter and spring, when it is very prevalent. Lightning is to be seen at all seasons, and some of the oldest inhabitants prognosticate the weather with a wonderful degree of correctness, both from the colour of the elec- tric fluid, and the time of day when it appears. It is generally observ- ed, that when vivid flashes of lightning are seen early in the morning, the ensuing. weather will be unfavourable; but while seen towards the evening, better hopes are entertained. It is remark- ed also, that when the aurora borealis is seen ascending high into the heavens, and when some rays have a reddish appearance, and in* stantly vanish to give place to others of a darker hue, then the weather will certainly change, and continue to be unfavourable for a length of time. The forms and colouring of Nature are frequently magniflcent* ly grand. Scenes at times present themselves which are both in- teresting and impressive. Who can behold without a pleasing elevation of mind, the tempestuous Atlantic battling with the fury of the elements ? What can be more beautiful than to witness the clouds of mist receding, in thickening folds, from the moun- tains, to the higher regions of the atmosphere, and leaving the landscape again to rejoice in the brightness of sunshine I At times, they present phenomena like celestial mountains tinged with the riches and variety of prismatic colouring I The splendour of the morning and evening drapery frequently baffles all descrip- tion. The aurora borealis, or polar lights, are often exceedingly brilliant ; as are likewise the solar rainbow, and the lunar halo. Such luminous meteors, certainly surpass in magniflcence any ap- pearance of the kind in other parts of the kingdom. The natives prognosticate the weather in various ways. It may be noticed also, that they attribute much importance, not only here, but in most parts of the Highlands, to the phases of the moon, not solely in regard to the weather, but likewise to the season best fitted for performing many acts of labour. They imagine that an increasing moon com- municates a growing quality to most substances, while a decreas- ing moon has an opposite tendency, and causes such substances to decay or wither. Actuated by this supposition, they avoid, in ge- neral, slaughtering animals in the wane of the moon, as then, ac- cording to their idea, the meat 'will shrink and decrease while in process of cooking. On the other hand, they prefer cutting tim- ber, mowing hay, casting turf, and delving ground, between full and new moon, as they are under the belief, that by so doing, the 244 INVERNESS-SHIRE. processes of seasoning will be accelerated, and that the sap, or na- tural juicoi weeds, &c. will more speedily decay* Diteaut. — The diseases to which the inhabitants are most liable, and from which they suffer most, are of an inflammatory kind, proceeding from their being continually exposed to damp and cold. During the spring and part of the winter, they are daily in the fields in all weathers, cultivating their patches of land ; consequently they are but seldom either dryly clad or shod. The complaints most prevalent are, acute rheumatism, pleuritic dis- orders, typhus fevers, pneumonia, asthma,' dyspepsia, erysipela* tons affections, and a diseased action of the lymphatic system. SmalUpox, and other contagious diseases, at times make their ap- pearance, being generally brought to the parish by the labourers who frequent the towns and cities of the kingdom in quest of employment Vaccination has been partially introduced, and the prejudice which the people had against it for a length of time, isgra- dually vanishing. There is no medical practitioner nearer than the village of Portree, upwards of twenty miles distant ; and the consequence is, that he is never sent for but in cases of extreme danger. Three or four individuals lately died at the age of 100. In the district of Steinscholl, a man died about twelve years ago, named John Nicolson, or MacCormaic, at the very advanced age of 105. There is one circumstance connected with this old man's history worthy of notice, which is, that he could repeat the most of Ossian's Fingal, Temora, &c with great fluency and precision. The writer of this heard him say that he committed these beau- tiful poems to memory, from hearing them repeated, when a boy, by his grandfather. If this fact be not sufficient to establish the authenticity of these unparalleled poems, it must surely establish the truth, that they existed before thetime of Macpherson, who attempt- ed to translate them into the English language. The silly allegation by some, that Ossian's poems were Macpherson's own production, is palpably confuted by MacCormaic and others, who could repeat them before Macpherson was born. But should that not have been the case, and should none have been found who could re- hearse them before Macpherson's time, the allegation, that they were either by Macpherson, or by any other in the age in which he lived, appears ridiculous in the sight of such as know the con- struction and beauty of the Celtic language. Hydrography.~K\\mw, as has been already stated, is bounded on the one side by the channel called the Minsh, and on the ISLAND OF SKYE — KfLMUHU 245 Other by the Gairloch Channel, each being about twenty miles in average breadth. The water of these channels is exceedingly salt. The currents, although regular, are very strong and rapid. The bottom of these channels must be very rugged, as the depths, which are generally great, vary in almost every place. The pa- rish is supplied with numerous excellent perennial fresh water springs, some of which have a copious discharge. There are also a few of the chalybeate nature, but not very much impregnated. The temperature of these springs varies but little at any season of the year, as they seem to issue immediately from a great depth. On the form of Steinscholl, there is a spring which was disco- vered, only a few years ag^o, whose water is supposed by some to be similar to that of Strathpefier ; but such is not the case, as it is saline, and exhibits no trace of sulphuretted hydrogen. Six ounces of this water were analyzed by a celebrated chemist in the south, who found them to contain, muriates of lime and potash, sulphates of soda, lime, and magnesia, carbonate of lime, and a trace of peroxide of iron and organic matter. At a certain place in the parish, there is an accidental conflux of pure fresh-water springs, which form a small elliptical pond of considerable depth. The bottom consists of whitish sand, which, by being visible through the transparent water, gives a beautiful greenish tinge to the whole. This small lake is surrounded by a little brushwood, and the rivulet which flows from it into the sea is pleasantly hemmed and edged with a few shrubs and bushes. The pond was anciently called Ix>ch Sianta or Seunta, which means the sacred lake, and it retains the name to this day. The hallowed appearance of the situation did not escape the fancy of the ancient Highlanders, whose veneration for such places was carried to a ridiculous excess. Owing to the crystalline purity of the water, its copiousness, and the sequestered situation of this little Hebridean Siloam, they conceived it to be favoured with its divinity, to whom, in the early ages of darkness and ignorance, they were extremely punctual in making offerings of various kinds. In- valids always resorted thither, and imagined that they were bene- fited by drinking of its water, and by thoroughly washing them- selves in a bath erected for the purpose. These superstitions have, however, long ago ceased, and Loch Sianta, though beauti- ful as ever, has lost its ancient charms in this more enlightened age. On the sea-shore, where the rivulet which issues from Loch 246 INVERNESS-SHIBE. Sianta discharges itself into the deep^ dilsoi or Fucus palmatuSf of most superior quality is found, which is much prized by the natives, who frequently cook it like greens, and other vegetables, and reckon it a salutary dish. A little fresh water lake in the parish, called Loch Miaghailt, discharges its water by a subterraneous passage, through the rocks between it and the sea. Near where the stream from this loch spouts out from the precipice, may be seen the form of a High- lander, in full garb, in the face of the rocL From the striking resemblance of this cliff to a Highlander in complete costume, it received the name of Creap naJeiUy the rock of the kilt, and has been frequently admired by tourists in search of the picturesque. It can only be seen to advantage from a little distance at sea. Near the ancient house of Flodigarry, there is an eminence in closa vicinity to the sea-shore, upon which, when a person stands, he hears under him a loud rumbling noise, which must be caused by the sea finding an entrance under the eminence, by means of •omo hollow recesses which are too deep to be seen. Not far from the house of Aird-mhic-ceolain, there is a remark- nUlt» natural formation called Slochd a' mhadaidh, where the sea ilanhos under a natural arch into a circular pool beyond it From this pool there is a subterraneous passage of some hundred yards in length, through which a person may scramble, .at low-water, and come out at the other end. At the place where the person comes out of that rough, dark passage, he sees before him a huge, iso- lated rock of considerable height, called Stachd-Lachlain. This rock is encompassed with quadrangular columns of basalt, and covered on the top with grass. As no one can scramble to its summit, marine fowls take possession of it for a nestling-place. In another place on the same farm, there is a variety of arches and passages, through which the sea dashes with a hollow rumbling noise. There are five little lakes in the parish, which abound with small black and yellow trout. The largest of the lakes was that of St Columba, which is now drained. It was proposed to drain this sheet of water as early as the year 1715, and the work was commenced under the superintendence of Sir Donald Macdonald, who, from his great achievements, was commonly called Donull a* chogaidh, that is wariike Donald. The work was, however, re- linquished in an unfinished state, owing to the disturbances occa- sioned in this and other parts of the kingdom by the battle of ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 247 Sheriffmuir. It is said that although the draining was not then thoroughly accomplished, yet it was so to such an extent, that a con- siderable quantity of water escaped. The proprietor set about redraining this loch about the year 1763, and succeeded ; but, from neglect in keeping the trenches in proper repair, it was allowed again to fill. The work was commenced anew in 1824, by the late Right Honourable Lord Macdonald, and after a period of five years, during which time a great number of labourers were employed, the lake was converted into arable land. Geology and Mineralogy. — Some mineralogists who have visited this and the adjacent parishes, have justly pronounced them to be store-houses of geology, in which several of the more rare minerals have been found. The hills abound with moss, which is also met with in many parts of the low grounds. The remains of various kinds of wood are very prevalent in the black solid moss. Roots, bark, and branches are found in some parts in great quantities, while in other parts solid trunks of trees are met with, some of which are much decayed. Ill almost every peat-bog, quantities of hazel-nuts have been dug up, and even the leaves of that wood have been seen in a state of wonderful preservation. The soil in general is of a glu- tinous, clayey description, interspersed in low situations by tracks of alluvial earth. Even in places where the surface is a light dark mould, the subsoil, by digging some feet, is found to be a stiff al- luvial clay. In some parts the soil consists chiefly of decomposed trap-rock, and other substances, which have undergone changes, by the action of the elements. In the localities where the deep heavy clay predominates, the soil speedily hardens in dry weather to such a degree, that the operations of agriculture are with diffi- culty performed, while in wet weather it softens so much as to cause similar inconvenience. The general aspect of the shores is bold, wild, and rocky. The whole range from the south-east boundary of the parish to the bay of Altivaig, presents an uninterrupted front of columnar precipices of basalt. In some parts, the monotony of the scene is relieved by lofty, isolated cliffs, jutting forth in fantastic forms, while in others, horizontal walls, rising above each other in successive gra- dations, shoot across the perpendicular rocks. Natural arches, vertical chasms, and dark, gloomy caverns, are found in several localities. Some of the hills slope gradually on the one side from their summits to their bases, while on the other they suddenly 2 18 INVBRNESS-SHIKK. present vertical fronts of great height, with blocks and detached fragments strewed in piles below^ which must have fallen down from the impending cliffs, by the waste of time. The hill in which Quiraing is situated, Creag-Nisdale, and a hill to the south of Duntulm, &c. afford striking instances of this. The trap rock more generally undergoes the process of decomposition, and on that account, where it is formed into lofty cliffs, the decomposed parts slope away from their bases to considerable distances. The stratiBed rocks exhibit, in several places, extensive ranges of natural masonry, over which the trap rises in the columnar form to considerable altitudes. While the more perishable rock is washed away, that which is more durable remains in the shape of isolated pillars of all sizes and altitudes. Such changes and de- compositions cause the formation of numberless pinnacles and conoidal points, which resemble at times the turrets or ornaments of artificial masonry. Detached columns are therefore frequent, and some of them rise to a great height over bases of small di- mensions. The stratified rocks in the parj^h are very irregularj and in many parts so greatly distorted and broken, that their dip, angle of in- clination, and other properties, can hardly be ascertained. Near the north boundary of the parish, the trap deiscends to the water's edge, and conceals entirely fnyn view what may exist under it. A little to the south the strata reappear, but to a very small extent. Near the Castle of Duntulm, and southward, the shore presents thin beds of limestone, with shales of various co- lours, verging to flinty slate. Some specimens of carbonized wood are here found, sometimes in detached pieces, and sometimes imbedded in blocks of coarse sandstone. Under the lofty cliffs of the eastern boundary of the parish, fragments of coal, chert, and flinty slate are met with. At Borniskittag-point, west of the manse, there are three caves, one of which, called Uamh an oir, hash een said by many to resemble in miniature, Fingal's cave in Staffa. In the whole range of this highly interesting headland, facing the north, the shore, for nearly a mile, is hemmed with precipices, which have assumed the columnar disposition, and which display picturesque combinations of form. Near the point where the caves are, the columns, broken above and below, present squa^ flat sur- faces. The parts of them which remain below, rise above each ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 249 Other in ttepsy as if hewn out of the solid rock by arti6cial means* These eaves can only be entered at low -tide. Near the northern boundary of the parish, the continual dash- ing of the waves against the opposing rocks has hollowed out ho- rizontal chasms, which emit sounds like the report of cannon, when the sea is lashed into them by the violence of a northern gale. In a storm, the sounds occasioned by these dark recesses are so loud as to be heard at the distance of many miles, and, from their re- semblance to the peals of ordnance, the place is called, Na gun« naichean, or the guns. In a small cave near these recesses, there are concretions of stalactites, which appear on its roof in the form of cream-coloured icicles. At one time the water which dropped from the roof of this little cave formed a beautiful spar-basin below, which was about four feet in diameter ; but people, from curiosity, demolished it, in order to carry pieces of it away. In some parts, gneiss is the lowest rock, and in apparent connec- tion with it, sandstone, greywacke slate, and common slate. Fel- spar, quartz, and chlorite slate constitute another variety met with in some places — masses of hornblende and hornblende slate alternate in several parts with the prevailing rock, while in other places beds of chlorite slate are seen passing into blue argillaceous or talcaceous slate. Beautiful specimens have been found of white felspar traversed by slender veins of hornblende. There is no red -sandstone in the parish, with the exception of some detached blocks on the shores of the island of Fladda, which are supposed by some to have been conveyed thither from the opposite island of Rona, by the force of some stream or cur- rent. Others entertain the opinion, that red-sandstone and gneiss exist in beds under the sea in the vicinity of Fladda^ and that the detached blocks just-mentioned have been thrown up from the bot- tom. Beds of common black shale make their appearance in two or three places, as also calcareous strata alternating with common shale. In many parts, the whole body of the rock seems to be one mass of petrified shells. The same when broken exhibits distinct impressions of bivalves of different sizes. The shores abound with stones of all sizes, which are so full of little cavities including shells, that when taken up and shaken, they make a rattling noise Uke a child's toy. It is quite impracticable in a work of this kind to mention and INVERNESS. R 250 1NVKRNESS-SHIRE. describe the various unstratified rocks, or to give a minute account of their several changes and intricate combinations. There is little or no granite in the parish, and mica-slate is but seldom met with. In some parts, the rocks are beautifully studded with the crys- tals of quartz. Several varieties of greenstones are found. Spe- cimens of asbestus and rock-crystal exist, but are rare. Porphyry, syenite, breccia, &c. are seen in more or less abundance. Several minerals, which principally belong to the zeolite family, are found. Chabasite and analcime exist, although comparatively rare. Stilbite and steatite, on the other hand, are very abundant. The former is found in great quantities among the remains of the decomposed trap-stone. Petrifactions of shells, fishes, and sea-plants, have been frequent- ly met with, but the specimens found of animal remains were not sufficiently perfect to enable the mineralogist to determine to what class they belonged. Zoology. — A catalogue of most of, if not all, the feathered tribes, which frequent the parish and the channels by which it is encom- passed, is sent along with the MS., and, if required, will be found in retentis along with it. It embraces the six orders of the Aves mentioned by Linnaeus, under his second class of natural history, and these will be found in the above-mentioned catalogue, viz. 1. Accipitres ; 2. Picaj ; 3. Anseres ; 4. Grallae ; 5. Gallinae ; and 6. Passeres. The cuckoo and other migratory birds pay their annual visits at their periodical seasons. The cuckoo's egg has been fre- quently found in the titlark's nest Until St Columba's lake was drained, it was yearly frequented by large flocks of swans, which seldom rested on any other lake in the parish. They appeared on the 25th of October annually, passed the winter on the lake, and remained in all about five months. In autumn after the lake was drained, they made their appearance at the usual time, but, on observing the destruction of their fj.vourite haunt, they hover- ed with a cry of sadness for a brief period ever it, then disappear- ed, and have ssldom been seen since near the place. Perhaps the most remarkable species of birds which' frequent the coast of the parish, is the puffin (Fratercula arcticaj) which appears annually in immense numbers at the island of Fladda- chuain, but seldom approaches nearer the shores of the parish. The bill of this bird is beautifully streaked with red and white gtripes, and its form is singular, resembling two short broad blades of a knife, placed with their edges in opposition, and forming an ISLAT^D OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 251 -ttcute spherical triangle. It is migratory, and most regular in its arrival and departure. About the beginning of May, this species of the aquatic tribes appears in vast numbers, literally covering the locks, cliffs, and eminences of the island, and disappear exactly OD the 12th of August. They are so rigidly impelled by instinct to observe their migrations, that, although thousands are seen on this little island on the 1 1th of August, there are scarcely any to be found on the ISth of the same month. Soon after their arri- val, they prepare for laying their eggs and hatching their young. It is said that the male, contrary to the usual economy of birds, undertakes the most arduous part of the process, and labours hard to prepare a secure locality for the deposition of the egg. They lay in burrows, which are dug horizontally in the ground, not in a straight line from the entrance, but in winding little passages from 10 to 15 feet in length. The male, for the most part, undertakes the task of forming this little circuitous tunnel, and for that pur- pose he throws himself on his back, in which position he picks and digs with his hard sharp bill, and casts out the loose earth or mould with his broad webbed-feet. Where the ground is such that they cannot conveniently scoop out a passage, they enter the crevices of rocks and cairns, where they form a well-fortified nest. They lay only one egg, but if robbed of it, as they generally are by the natives, they lay again and again, but never more than a single egg. They are easily caught in their burrows, but when they find themselves closely hemmed in, and in great danger, they resort for security to the remote end of their subterraneous little passage, and thrust out their solitary egg, no doubt as a peace-of- fering to their relentless pursuers ; but although the egg is accept- ed, yet the enemies rest not satisfied until the hapless tenants of the burrows fall victims to their merciless depredators.* Kilmuir is not perhaps so much given to the rearing of sheep and cattle as some other parts of the island. This is accounted for by the great quantity of crop which is raised, in comparison with what is raised in other districts of Skye. Quadrupeds^ Sfc. — The following are frequently met with, viz. foxes, wild-cats, (polecats rare,) otters, terriers, weasels, rats, mice, toads, lizards, frogs, &c Serpents, although not numerous, are • When the poor puffin finds himself in great jeopardy, and unable to effect his es- cape, he pushes out his egg to his pursuer, and cries ** lig, ftg, f&g, — na briith, na briith/* which the natives think is pure Gaelic, namely ** leave, leave, leave* bruise not, bruise nut ;*' but it is almost unneces^ary to say, that this earnest and thricQ* repeated cry to be left, is cruelly disregarded. 252 INVERNESS-SHIRE. sometimes seen ; but there is no instance known of their sting being deadly. The natives, in general, entertain an idea that cattle are stung or bitten by the toad, and some, by means of su- perstitious frets, pretend to effect a cure by certain charms, or by the repetition of some nonsensical rhyme. There seems to be no proper evidence that such swellings on cattle as are attributed to the poisonous bite of the toad are caused thereby, but may with greater propriety be laid to the charge of the serpent, which is well known to sting any animal which comes within its reach. Where cattle are stung by the serpent, the cure invariably resort- ed to is to wash the affected part of the suffering animal with wa- ter which had been poured over the preserved head of a serpent, and this process is considered an effectual remedy. Serpent's heads are, therefore, considered very valuable, and are preserved with every possible care, provided the sting is retained in them, in which the healing virtue is supposed to exist. Insects, — No species of rare or uncommon insects are known to exist in the parish. In warm summer evenings the midge or He- bridean musquito, and the gad-fly or gleig, prove very annoying to labourers and others, and particularly so before rain. There are no bee-hives in the place ; but wild bees are some seasons nu- merous, and such as are generally seen are the Apis lapidaria and the A, muscorum. The caterpillars, as in most places, prove very destructive to fruit-trees and bushes, as well as to garden vege- tables. The most effectual remedy yet found to prevent their ravages, is to pick them carefully off all places where they appear. Grasshoppers are seldom seen ; but butterflies, white, scarlet, and spotted, are quite common. Fishes. — The various sorts of sea-fish are abundant. There are, however, no regularly established fisheries. Every family supplies itself; but it is only in calm weather that the people can go in quest of it, as the sea which surrounds the parish is ex- posed to almost every wind. Among the different kinds and classes of the finny tribe which frequent the coast are, the cod, ling, her- ring, thornback, skate, turbot, mackerel, horse-mackerel, whiting, eel, bream, hake, sythe, cuddy, cole-fish, dog-fish, king-fish, pipe* fish, pollack or lythe, grey and red gurnard, flounder, &c« In the cetaceous order the spout or herring whale merits the first place. Greenland whales are also seen at times, and of an immense size. The porpoise or sea-hog, and whales of small size, are frequently observed playing in the Minsb. Seals are nume- ISLAND OP SKYE — KILMUIR. 253 rouS) but particularly so upon a dangerous reef of sunk rock call- ed Sgeir-nara«maol, which runs across part of the channel or Minsh^ from Hunish point. Of cartilaginous fishes, the skate is reckoned by the natives the most valuable. The common sea« eel is taken in great quantities by means of long lines, and some of them are of great size. The lythe is looked upon as fine and de- licate in quality. Some autumns the gurnard appears in immense shoals, when boat loads of it are taken in a short period of time. The most successful bait for it is a piece of gurnard itself. Had- docks are comparatively rare, but were about half a century ago the most numerous of all fishes. The sythe, though dry and in- sipid, may be said to be of all fish the most useful to the natives, as it supplies them with oil for light, and other purposes. This oil is preferable for burning to train oil. The best season for it is autumn, when 80 to 100 sythes will yield an imperial gallon of oil. Fisheries. — At one period, the herring appeared in prodigious shoals, not only around the coast of the parish, but in all the lochs, creeks, and bays of the island. It then formed an exten- sive and lucrative source of traffic, and the benefits derived from it, by the country in general, were very great It was caught at comparatively little expense, as the natives could, for the most part, make their own nets, and reach their own homes. In every creek and bay large fleets of schooners, brigs, sloops, wherries, and boats of all sizes and descriptions, were to be seen eagerly engaged in the securing of stores for private families, and of car- goes for the southern markets. Now the irregular appearance of this migratory fish, together with the small quantities of it which frequent, at the present day, its wonted haunts, have deprived the natives of one of their best sources of support, and have been in no small degree the means of reducing the redundant population to poverty, and of unfitting them to meet such seasons of destitu- tion as those of 1836 and 1837. Salmon is plentiful on the coast, but the only place where it spawns is the small river which runs into the bay of Altivaig. It goes up that stream if a little swollen with rain, about the 12th of August, and returns to the sea about Michaelmas. A salmon- fishery has been established for the last ten years, on the proper- ty of Lord Macdonald in this island, and the bay of Altivaig has proved one of its most successful stations. The whole is present- ly rented by John Wilson, Esq. Berwick-on- Tweed, and five years 254 INVERNESS-SHIRS. are still to expire of his lease. The quality of the salmon of this parish is considered decidedly superior to that of any other station in Skye. It is caught solely by bag-nets, — preserved by pickling, — and sold at the London market. The shores abound with most, although not with all common shell-Bsh. Bivalves of various kinds are frequently found attach- ed to the Bshermen's long lines, when lifted from the bottom of the deep. Lobsters, crabs, whelks, buckies, mussels, limpets, clams, cockles, &c. are found in more or less abundance. Oys- ters and spout-fish are very rare. Some of these afford tempo«- rary relief to many of the poor inhabitants in years of dearth. Dur- ing the late memorable seasons of scarcity the shores were literally covered with the starving natives, in quest of such little supplies of shell-fish as were left exposed by the ebbing of the tide. Limpets arc much used as bait for catching sythe, cod, had- dock, and other fishes. There is no regular fishing apparatus for catching lobsters, crabs, clams, &c. and on that account there are but small quantities of them procured for family use. Botany, — All sorts of vegetables for culinary purposes suc- ceed well, both in field and garden. There is also a variety of plants to which the natives attribute great medicinal virtues* No doubt some are found to be of use. The Geranium ro» hertianum is applied to sores and cutaneous eruptions, and the Cicuta virosoy or hemlock, to deeply-rooted tumours. Chamo- mile tea, and the juices of several other plants are used with benefit Some of the natives pretend to great skill in point- ing out medicinal herbs, and the proper manner of applying them. It is supposed, however, that the healing quality of many of the herbs resorted to for cures, is more in the imagination of the people, than in the herbs themselves. Such medicinal pro- cesses are often attended with much nonsensical manoeuvres, and superstitious ceremonies. Besides the medicinail plants, others are successfully used for the purposes of dyeing colours and tanning leather. By means of the common heath, a yellow is produced, and with the addition of indigo, a green. The bark or branches of the alder-tree, with sulphate of iron or copperas, dyes an excellent black. Although in bygone ages, the parish must have been wooded, as is proved by the remains of trees found in mosses and in other situations, yet it does not seem to be now adapted for the growth of almost any species of timber. Where trees attain a certain ISLAND OF SKVE^KlLUlUIR. 255 height, they invariably wither. None are therefore found in it, with the exception of a little brush-wood in two or three places. With the view of making a fair experiment, as to the growth of wood, the late noble proprietor planted, in 1831, about ten acres of enclosed ground, with the following kinds of trees, viz. larch, ash, spruce, mountain -ash, silver-fir, elm, beech, and Huntingdon willow ; but all of them have long ago decayed. Bushes for small fruit thrive well, provided ihey be enclosed, and sheltered in fen- ced gardens. The rocks and rugged recesses abound with garlic iind other strongly scented herbs, which frequently, in consequence of their being cropped by cattle, give a disagreeable taste to milk and but- ter. There seem to be no uncommon plants in the parish. The following list embraces a few of such as are met with in more or less abundance. I^obelia Dortmaniia Cotyledon umbilicus Valeriana ofiicinalit Digitalis purpurea Geranium robertianum Lamium album Carlina vulgaris Ranunculus rcpens ^..i^_- purpureum Bellis perennis Stellaria holostca Leontodon taraxacum au- Convolvulus Soldanella Mentha gentilis tumnale Drosera rotundifolia Lithosperraum maritimum Epilubium Thymus serpyllum — — officinale Tussila^o Scolopendrium vulgare Tormcntilla officinalis Lycopodium sclago Lathyrus pratensis Euphrasia officinalis Cicuta virosa. The very rare plant, the Eriocaulon, though not found in this parish, is in great abundance in the parish of Strath. II. — Civil History.* The early history of the parish is involved in impenetrable ob- scurity. The aborigines of this and the surrounding isles, ac- cording to the best historical traditions, were a mixture of the ancient Caledonians or Picts, and the Albanaich, or first settlers, in what is now known by the kingdom of Scotland. The general character of the original population, it is said, was considerably changed by an influx of the cognate Celtic race of Scots, imme* diately after the Scottish conquest ; but this change was, in rea- lity, small, in comparison with that effected by the Vikingr, or pi- ratical kings from Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. These Scan- dinavian rovers appeared on the east coast of England about A. D. 785, and a century, at least, before they obtained a footing in any of the north Hebrides. The accession of the bloody King, > Harold Harfager, to the entire kingdom of Norway, a. d. 880, urged many of his opponents and powerful subjects to escape his * \'ide Buchanan's Ilintory of Scotland ; Chalmers's Caledonia ; Gordon*8 Hit.* tory of Sutherland ; Gregory's History of the Isles. 256 INVERNESS-SHIRE. vengeance, by leaving their native land, and by procuring a set- tlement for themselves by force of arms in this and other islands around. Having, once obtained possession of their new territo* ries, they resolved to make piratical attacks upon their native land, on account of Harold's previous cruelty and vengeance ; — and this procedure provoked the King of Norway and his allies to dispatch a fleet to the Isles, by which they were ultimately sub- dued, and added to the crown of Norway. The aborigines of the Isles had cause to deplore the barbarities of their new oppressors, by whom the ^^ cills" and places of worship erected some centuries before, by the Culdees, the pious disciples of St Columba, were entirely demolished ; and ravages and desolations of the most sweeping description ensued. That the territory which consti- tutes this parish suffered from the effects of these disturbances is evident, from its situation being such, that it would be the first landing place of the enemy in their piratical excursions from the north, and from the fact, that it was strongly secured by the erec- tion of many duns or forts, the ruins of which are still distinctly visible. It would be needless, and would serve no useful end in this ac« count, to attempt making mention of the succession of Vikingrs, or Kings of the Isloss up to the beginning of the twelfth century, when the powerful dynasty of MacDh^nuiU, or Lords of the Isles, had its origin. The great and warlike family of MacDhonuill sprung from Somerled, Lord of Argyle,^ and were, for a succes- sion of centuries, justly renowned for their many achievements and military prowess. At the defeat of the Norwegians at the battle of Largs in Ayrshire, in the reign of Alexander III. the Western Isles were ceded to the kingdom of Scotland, part of which they form to this day. Numerous and intricate were the feuds and quarrels which existed between the septs and clans of the Western Isles, by which the peace of these localities was molested for many subsequent centuries. The islanders were so frequently divided by factions, and their mutual feuds were at times so violent, that Government more than once deemed it prudent to interfere, for the purpose of reconcilia- Of Somerled there arc many traditions still floating among the natiTes. He iras known bv the appellation of *• Soirle Mac Ghillebride na h- Uimba**— Somerled, the son of Gilbride of the cave. A full length portrait of Somerled is beautifully cwcuukI in stained glass in one of the windows of Armadale Castle, Lord Mac. doDald*s seat in Skyo. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 267 tion. lu the year 1528, great disturbances arose in this, and the adjoining parishes of Troternish, in consequence of a feud between the Clann Donuill and the Macleods of Harris. The office of Balliary of all Troternish was granted by royal charter to Alex- ander Macleod of Dunvegan, while, a few weeks afterwards, the same office was similarly granted to Torquil Macleod of Lewis. Under these circumstances, DonuU Gru^mach mac Dhonuill Ghallaich of Sleat assembled his forces, and was successful in ex^ pelUng Macleod of Dunvegan and his clan from the barony of Tro-* ternish. After the death of Donull Gruamach, Dunvegan renew- ed hostilities, and resolved by every possible means to regain pos- session of Troternish. Donull Gorm, the son and successor of Donull Gru^ach, entered Troternish in May 1539, and, with a strong body of his adherents, laid waste the country with 6re and sword. There are still traditions of the hardships and calamities to which the inhabitants of this parish were then exposed. Some days subsequent to this invasion, Donull G6rm passed over from Troternish to Kintail, with a view to be revenged on Mackenzie, on account of his hostility to his pretensions. In an attempt to take Mackenzie's castle at Elandonnan by surprise, DonuU G6rip lost his life, by an arrow directed against him from the battlements of the fortress.* The excesses to which these disastrous feuds were carried ar- rested the attention of James V. ; and, with a determination to check them in future, not only in this part of Skye, but in all the Western Isles, he resolved to appear in person before the various chieftains of the Isles. For this purpose, his Majesty, with a considerable fleet, left the Forth in May 1540, and, saihng round the north of Scot- land, called at Lewis, where he took on board Macleod of that island, whence, passing over to Skye, he took along with him Mac- leod of Dunvegan, and then directing his course eastward, visited Troternish, still bearing marks of its late desolation. Tradition says, that his Majesty minutely inspected and greatly admired the fortress of Duntulm, the residence, in this parish, for many cen- turies, of the noble Clann Donuill. Here he was met by a num- ber of chieftains, who claimed relationship to the Lords of the Isles.f * Elandonnan fortress, at the time, had but few men in garrison, and Mackenzie being absent, it is very probable that it would have been, taken, were it not that DonuU Gorm received a wound in the thigh, from a barbed arrow, which he pulled out with such violence as to sever the main artery. The blood, of course, flowed copi- ously, and all the means which were used to check its effusion proved ineffectual. He was hastily conveyed' to a little island at some distance, where he had been but a short period when he died, f After his Majesty had taken on board Ruairidh Macleod, and his kinsmen^ at 258 INVKRNESS-SUIRE. Setting sail from Duntulm, the fleet doubled the northern point of Skye, and coasting it southward in the channel which separates Skye from the mainland, cast anchor at Portree, now the capital of the island, and deriving its name from that royal visit.* Leav- ing this harbour, his Majesty proceeded southward through the Kyles of Skye, and, after visiting in succession the rest of the He- brides, landed at Dumbarton Castle. About the year 1580, a secret plot was laid to deprive DonuU Gorm Mor of his property. This Donull Gorm Mor was the grandson of Donull Gorm, who died at Elandonnan. The plot was devised and artfully carried on against the proprietor by his own nephew, Uistean Mac Ghilleaspuig Chlirich, (Hugh, the son of Archibald, the Clerk), who was a very powerful and treacherous man. Seeing that his uncle, Donull Gorm, had no issue, and that the property would, in consequence, devolve upon his elder brother, Donull Gorm og Mac Ghilleaspuig Chleirich, he resolv- ed to usurp it by power and stratagem. For this purpose, he se- cretly contrived to gain over to his cause as many of the clan as possible, at the same time pretending to his uncle to be on the best possible terms with him. The 6rst preparation for the ac- complishment of his schemes, was the building of a large tower or castle on the farm of Peinduin, in the adjoiuing parish of Sni- zort. This tower, still called " caisteal Uistein," t. e. Hugh's Castle, was never entirely finished. It was erected on a rock by the sea side, and had neither door nor windows, but was to be entered on the top, by means of ladders, which could be pulled up and let down at pleasure. The ruins of this castle are still seve- ral feet in height. It is said that Donull Gorm had but little suspicion of his nephew's intrigues, until he commenced the build- ing of this unique fortress, which he did under other pretences, by the permission of his uncle. A few years afterwards, however, Donull Gorm had more direct proof of his nephew's intentions. Having had occasion to pay a visit to his kinsman at Dunyveg, in Isla, he set out from his castle at Duntulm, with a retinue of his vassals and Lewis, as also Alexander Macleod of Dunvegan, and his chief vassals in that part of Skye, he was met at Duntulm by Glengarrvi several principal men of the Clann' Donuiilf Iain Muideartach, and others, who severally accompanied the fleet to the south. The King having landed at Dumbarton, sent the fleet, with the captive chiefs, and their principal adherents, round by the north to Leith. * Portree is a Gaelic name, which signifies the King's harliour. The name of the bay at Portree, previous to the royal visit in question, vas *' Loch Choluim* Cille/* that is, St Columba's bay. There is a small island in the bay, which ttiU retains the nimc of'' F.ilan Choluim Cille,** viz. the Island of St Coluraba. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR, 259 friends. When on the coast of Jura, they were overtaken by a storm, which forced them to land on the property of Maclean of Duart, in that Isle. It happened that the same storm made the usurper, Uislean, and some of his adherents, take shelter in a bay, quite contiguous to where his uncle had landed. As soon as night had come on, Uistean, fully aware of his uncle's situation, carried off a number of Maclean's cattle, and set sail for the ilorth, know* iDg well that, as his visit to the place was unknown to Duart, Donull G6rm and his retinue would be accused as the perpetra- tors. Such was the case next dav, — when the cattle were amis- sing, the Skyemen were attacked by a strong bcrdy of Duart's re- tainers. Many of the Macdonalds fell in the skirmish, and their chief narrowly escaped, by getting into one of his galleys, and set- ting sail for Skye. This insidious conduct on the part of Uistean was the cause of a violent feud between the Macdonalds and the Macleods, and matters assumed an aspect so serious that the king had to interfere to effect a reconciliation. Soon after Donull G6rm's return at that time to his castle at Duntulm, he had a letter from his treacherous nephew Uistean, which was the means of bringing his plots clearly to light. Uistean being in Uist, with a view to procure as many adherents as possible, wrote a letter to- one of his confederates in Skye, revealing all his plans, while, at the same time, he wrote another letter, full of friendly expres- sions, to his uncle at Duntulm. It is said, that while both letters were closed and sealed, he committed an egregious mistake for his own unrighteous cause, by addressing his confederate's letter to his uncle, and vice versa ; by which awkward oversight, Donull Gorm was, from Uistean's own handwriting, led to a knowledge of all his schemes. Before the usurper was aware of what he had done, Donull Gorm despatched a messenger to his kinsman and relative, Donull Maclain 'ic Sheumais in Uist, to seize Uistean, and bring him prisoner to Duntulm. Without loss of time Donull Maclain put his liege* lord's instructions into execution. He re-* sorted to the house where Uistean resided, and as he approached it with a strong retinue of men, the usurper, dreading that all was not right, and seeing the impossibility of effecting his escape, had barely time to dress himself in female attire, and to commence grind- ing with a quern, or hand-mill, at which the inmates had been at the time engaged. The size, and masculine appearance of the grinder soon attracted the notice of the party when they entered the house. They laid hold of him, but his great agility and bodily 260 INVERNBSS-SHIIIE. Strength^ together with his being rendered violent through despair, made it doubtful for a time whether or not the party could re- tain him. At length, being encumbered with his dress, and unable any longer to defend himself against the men who surrounded him, he was seized, and fastly bound, and carried prisoner to the family Beat in this parish. He was cast into the dungeon of the castle, which was a dark, secluded vault on the ground-floor of theedifice^ whero he was chained in the centre of the apartment. He was fed on ^salt beef, and when he stretched forth his hand to grasp a covered pitcher which was placed near him, and which he no doubt supposed to contain water, he found it empty ! Writhing in agony with thirst, he found neither alleviation nor repose, until death put an end to his suflTorings.* The next circumstance which merits particular notice^ as hav- ing occurred in the parish and districts adjacent, is the letting of Ihejands of Troteroish, together with the Island of Lewis, to a Lowland Company, at a stipulated rent, that they might improve the same, according to directions prescribed by the King, (James VL) The Company, however, soon found cause to relinquish their engagements, and to leave the lands to the management of those chieft who maintained a preferable right of occupancy/f Three years after the granting of the above lease, viz. in a. d. 160], the peace of the parish, in common with the rest of Mac- JDhonuill's estates in Skye and Uist, was in no small degree dis- turbed. by a bloody feud which broke out between the two power- ful chiefs MacDhonuill and Macleod of Dunvegan. The quar- rel arose from some private affairs connected with their families. Ruairidh Macleod of Dunvegan, having assembled his vassals and clan, invaded the barony of Troternish, and carried fire and sword into every district of it DonuU Gorm mor, on the other hand, with a powerful retinue of his clan, entered the Island of Harris, then the property of Macleod of Dunvegan, and caused it to suf- fer in a similar manner. For the purpose of being revenged, * Ui8tean*8 remains were interred in the parisli burying-ground. Some ages after* wards, his skull and thigh bones were exhumed, no doubt as curiosities, owing to their immense size. ^ They were lying for many years about the walls and recesses of the old church, until they were again committed to the dust about sixteen years ago. f According to Gregory and others, the Lowland company consisted of theUuke of Lennox; Patrick, Commendator of Lindores ; William, Coromendator of Pitien* weem ; Sir James Anstruthcr; Sir James Sandilands of Slamanno; James Leir- mont of Balcolmy ; James Spens of Wormestown ; John Forret of Fiogask ; David Home of Wedderbume; and Captain William Murray. The annual rent for Troternish was fixed at 400 mcrks; and the date of the lease was May 1506. ISLAND OP SKYfi— KILMUIR. 261 Macleod sent a party of men under a choice leader to destroy MacDhonuiirs estate in Uist, but they were there met and rout- ed with much bloodshed, by MacDhonuill's kinsman already men- tioned, yiz. DonuU Maclain 'ic Sheumais. During thefie dis- astrous conflicts, the estates of both chiefs were very much injured ; and the natives were reduced to great hardships, by being daily in terror of their lives, and by neglecting to cultivate their lands to make provision for themselves and families. At length, affairs came to be decided by a pitched battle. MacDhonuill collected his forces, and Macleod did the same. The two great chiefs at the head of their warriors, met in close vicibity to the lofty mount CuUin, and after a desperate and bloody conflict, in which both clans fought with distinguished bravery, the Macleods were rout- ed with great slaughter. It would be impossible within the limits of this account to relate the various little feuds and differences which disturbed the repose of the parish, in common with the rest of the estates of the power- ful Macdonald family, down to the period of the battle of Killie- crankie in 1689, and of Sheriffmuir in 1715. No fewer than five cousins of Sir Donald Macdonald of the Isles fell on the bloody field of Killiecrankie, fighting on the side of Dundee. Sir Donald Macdonald, commonly called Donull a' chogaidh, led forth a strong body of chosen men from this and the adjacent parishes, to the battle of Sheriffmuir, where they distinguished themselves by their wonted bravery. But neither of these engagements created such a sensation in this place as did the Rebellion of 1745. It is well known, that, had Sir Alexander Macdonald and Macleod of Dun- vegan joined the standard of the unfortunate Prince Charles Ed-* ward Stuart, the fate of Culloden would have been different. The joint forces of these powerful chiefs were at the time nearly 4000 strong. Clanranold was despatched to Skye to hasten the two chiefs just named, to join the Prince's cause. He found them both at Monkstadt, in this parish, the residence at that time of Sir Alexander Macdonald. The envoy's entreaties were in vain, for, however much disposed these chieftains might have been at first to assist the Chevalier, they evidently saw by that time that his cause was hopeless, and they prudently kept aloof.* * It is said, when the Duke of Cumberland met Sir Alexander Macdonald, after the battle of CuUoden, that be addressed him — *'*• Ho! is this the great rebel of the Isles?** — and that Sir Alexander instantly replied—** No, my Lord Duke, for had 1 been the rebel of the Isles, your Graee vould not have crossed the Spey.** 262 INVBRNESS-SHIRE. Mis$ Flora Macdonald. — The story of the heroic conduct of Miss Flora Macdonald in conducting the unfortunate Charles in the dis- guise of a maid-servant from the Long Island to Monkstadt in this parish, is so well known that any detail of it here is unnecessary. Many were the trials and severe thehardships which fell to the lot of the gallant Miss Flora, subsequent to this adventure. She was soon seized and brought prisoner to London, where she was, with Kingsburgh, and many others, confined in the Tower. All admired the dauntless part which she had acted, and her case ex*- cited so much irxterest, that she was visited by the great and noble of the land. Among^ the rest, she had the honour of a visit from Prince Frederick of Wales, great- grandfather of her present Ma- jesty Queen Victoria. This generous prince was so much struck with the simplicity and dignity of the fair prisoner's character that he interested himself to procure her liberation.* When she had obtained her freedom, she found refuge in the house of Lady Primrose of Dunnipace, where she was visited and loaded with honours by distinguished personages of all ranks and shades of politics. Returning to her native isle, she was married in the month of November 1750, to Allan, son of Mr Alexander Mac- donald of Kingsburgh, who resided at the time of his marriage at Flodigarry, in this parish. Upon the death of her husband's father, his son, Allan, succeeded him, and Flora, then Mrs Allan Macdonald, became lady of the mansion of Kingsburgh. She afterwards went to North Carolina with her husband, where he took part in the civil war which then disturbed the peace of that country. After undergoing many hardships in that quarter, they deemed it prudent to return to Skye. The vessel in which they sailed from America was met by a French privateer, and an *. It is said that when Flora was liberated, she used her influence to procure the liberation of Kingsburgh, as also of Donald Maclcod of Galtrigal, and of Calum inac lain mhic Iain, who went in the capacity of guide with the Prince ftt>ni Raaay to Kilinorie in Strathaird. It is said that Kingsburgh was anested in the following manner : Some days after the Prince was there, Captain Ferguson of the Govern- ment war ship, cast anchor at the ** Crannag,** near Kingsburgh House, and, haTlng gone ashore, met Kingsburgh*s dairy.maid attending some cattle. He entered into conversation with* the maid, and, suspecting that she might have some news for bim» induced her to go to see the vessel. When on board he treated her kindly, and gave her some little presents ; then asking her about various circumstances relative to country news, she not knowing who her entertainer was, told, with an air of prid^ that she had seen Prince Charles ; that he was a night at her master's house ; that her mistress and other ladies who were there at the time, got beautiful locks of his hair ; and that his appearance pleased her much. This was all that Ferguson wanted, and, by means of this imprudent disclosure on the part of the unsuspecting maid, the first' certain proof was obtained of the manner in which Kingsburgh had acted, as weU as of the certainty that the Prince bad landed in Skye from Uist. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 263 action took place, in which Flora appeared on deck, where, with her wonted magnanimity, she inspired the seamen with courage, and assured them of success. Although her arm was broken in the engagement, yet her native spirit of heroism was not in the least degree damped. She never more left Skye. She had seven children, five sons and two daughters, besides some who died in infancy ; all her sons were officers, who distinguished themselves in the service of their king and country. Her daughters, on the other hand, became officers' wives. Ann was the lady of Major Alexander Macleod, and died at Stein, in this island, about six years ago. Her second daughter, Frances, was married to Lieu- tenant Donald Macdonald of Cuiderach. Of this interesting far mily, none are now alive. The celebrated Flora lived to an ad- vanced period of life, and retained to the last that vivacity of cha- racter and that amiableness of disposition, by which she was al- ways distinguished. On the 5th of March 1790, she departed this life, little more than two vears before the death of her hus- band. Her remains were interred in the burying-ground of this parish, within a square piece of coarse wall, which was erected about the year 1766 to enclose the tombs of the Kingsburgh fa- mily. Her funeral, it is said, was attended by no fewer than 3000 individuals, of every rank and class, and all were liberally served with refreshments.* Now that the spirit of Jacobitism is gone, and the world at large * In the same burjing- place various members of the Kingsburgh fimily were in- terred, as may be seen from the following inscription on a marble slab* which wai procured many years ago by Lieutenant- Colonel John Macdonald of £xeter» to be placed over his mother's ( Fiora^s) grave. The slab was, however, broken in convey- ing it to this place from the south ; and no fragment of it is now left by touristSi who have carried it off in pieces as curiosities, 'i'be inscription was as follows : *' In the family mausoleum at Kilmuir, lie interred the remains of the following members of the Kingsburgh family, viz. Alexander iMacdonald of Kingsburgh ; his son Allan, his sons Charles and James ; his son John, and two daughters ; and of Flora Macdonald, who died in March 1790, aged 68 \ name that will be mention- ed in history, and if courage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour.'*—** She was a woman of middle stature, soft features, gentle manners, and elegant presence. So wrote Johnson.** The abov£ confused inscription embraces the names of most of the Kingsburgh family, whose remains sluml>er within the square piece of rude building, already al- luded to. The remains of Flora's last surviving daughter, Mrs Mijor Macleod, were consigned to their kindred dust about six years since, 'l^e said Mrs Mtgor Macleod has left only one daughter, Miss Mary Macleod, still alive at Stein. Dr Johnson and bis fellow-traveller Boswell, while on their tour through the He- brides in 1773, visited Flora and family at Kingsburgh, and were much struck with that lady's appearance, and elegance of manners. So great was Flora's enthusiasm for the prince and his success, that she carried with her to America a part of the sheet in which he slept at Kingsburgh, intending that, when, or where she might die, it should be used for her shroud. She brought it back from America, and it is said, that, according to her own request, it was the shroud in which the waa lowered into the grave. 264 INVERNESS-SHIRE. has ceased to regard the claims of the house of Stuart, it is a mat- ter of regret that the dust of the memorable Flora, in whose bosom that spirit, so lofty and chivalrous, burned with such unexampled fervour, should be allowed to moulder without a monument of the meanest description to mark her tomb. In this age, so remark- able for the zeal displayed in rearing memorials for distinguished characters, it is surprising that no spirited individuals have stepped forward to erect, by public subscription or otherwise, some monu- ment over the ashes of one so justly celebrated and so universally admired. In all quarters of the kingdom, burying-grounds are to be seen crowded with every variety of tombs, excelling each other in neatness of workmanship, and in elegance of inscriptions ; while the remains of the memorable Flora are allowed to crumble un- der a green solitary turf, without a stone to mark the spot, or even a rude flag with the initials of her name to catch the traveller's eye. Soon after the suppression of the Rebellion^ when the isles were rans!v:ked bv Government forces in search of the ill-fated Prince* Major Allan Macdonald, alias Ailean a Chnoic^ who was a staunch adherent of the Government, harboured,as it would appear, some ill will towards his chief, Sir Alexander Macdonald. In consequence of this, it is alleged that he informed Captain Ferguson that Sir Alexander possessed a great stock of arms at Monkstadt; i)o doubt, insinuating that they might be used at some future period in the cause of the Chevalier. Sir Alexander having heard what Allan had done, and in order to avoid any such suspicions being entertained against him, gave instructions to throw the arms into the sea. They were accordingly conveyed to a boat, and consign- ed to the deep near Kilbride, the place at which the Prince and Flora landed in this parish.* Ancient Families. — The Macqueens of Garafad, the Martins, and others, were ancient families of some note in the parish. Tra- dition says, that, at some remote period, twenty young men, of each of three clans, or tribes, were given to the proprietor, as a dowry with his wife, Nighean Chathain, from Ireland, as men in those days were more valuable than money. It is alleged, that the Macqueens, Martins, &c. are their descendants. The Mac- queens had the farm of Garafad for many centuries free, with the * Ailean a* Chnoic was father to General Donald Mac'lonald, Colonel of the 55th foot, who was wounded in Holland in 1799, and died in London. Major Allan used the Jacobites very harshly in Uist, and in other quarters, so that he was no favourite with any who hacf embraced the Prince's cause. After the Rebellion, he left the coun- try, and died in the town of Ayr. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 266 exception that they had to give a certain number of salmon, at a fixed price, annually to the proprietor. It is said that they got deeply in arrears with their salmon rent, and, being unable to pay the same when demanded, lost their tenure* A Mrs Macqueen, the relict of the last of the family, had a pendicle of the farm un« til the day of her death. Landnnoners and Residence. — The most entire ruin in the pa- rish, is the magnificent Castle of Duntulm, the ancient residence of the family of Macdonald, the illustrious descendants of So« merled, Rex Insularum. This dun or fort was built on a lofty, perpendicular, sea-beaten rock, and, from its situation, must have been impregnable, both from sea and land. It was originally a Danish fort, which was rebuilt by the powerful Clann Donuill for a family seat. It is said that this distinguished clan made choice of this place as the site of their castle, because it was, at the time of the Norwegian Conquest, the residence of David, one of the most powerful of the Vikingr, or piratical kings, who in- vaded the island. It was anciently known by the name of Duu Dhaibhidh, or David's Fort, and the word David was inscribed on a stone in the front of the original tower, but that stone, and many others, having sculptured figures upon them, were taken away as curiosities. This superb edifice was, from time imme- morial, the birth-place of many gallant heroes, renowned charac* ters, and eminent men of that powerful clan. Most of these, though hot all, were interred in a plot in the parish burying-ground, called Reileag Mhoir Chloinn Donuill, or the large cemetery of the Macdonalds. The Macdonalds have for ages been justly distinguished as the best and most indulgent of proprietors. The family residence is now Armadale Castle, in the parish of Sleat. Antiquities, — The ruins of cills, or Culdee chapels, as has al- ready been noticed, are very numerous. The monastery, which was erected by St Columba on an island, in the now drained lake of Colum-cille, bears every mark of having been an extensive and firmly-built edifice. It is now almost level with the ground ; still the foundation can be distinctly traced. There was a fane, or temple, now in ruins, in the above-men- tioned island of Fladda-chuain, supposed to have been built by the Druids, who, according to tradition, went thither once a year to worship and feast. There were nine smooth stones used by them in their religious ceremonies, each about a foot in length. They remained entire, and might still have been seen there had INVERNESS. S 266 INVERNESS-SHIRE, they not been, of late years, stolen as curiosities by some persons unknown. There were three burying-places in this small island, one of which is named to this day Cladh-Mhanaich, that is, the monks* burying-place. The forts of the parish are six in number, viz. Dun-Scudde- burgh, Dun-Liath, Dun-Bhannerain, Dun-Barplacaig, Dun-Tulm, and Dun-Deirg. It is well ascertained, that most of these duns, or forts, are Danish. The last mentioned, however, seems to have been erected by tHe Druids. It is known that Dargo was a brave and warlike Druid, who attempted to restore the fallen dig- nity of his order. Ossian, the celebrated Celtic bard, makes mention of Dearg nan Druidhean, that is, Dargo of the Druids, or Dargo the Druid. We have, therefore, here, Dun-Deirg, which is, the fort of Dargo, about which many little traditions are still afloat among the old men of the country. Several tiers of stone still remain in some of these forts ; and, from the immense size of most of the blocks which were used, it appears wonderful how they could have been raised from the ground, unless very strong mechanical powers were made to act upon them. It is evident from the situation of these forts that they were intended to give each other an alarm at the approach of an enemy, as they are in- variably found to be in sight of each other. The signal which was given, as may be gathered from ancient traditions and songs, consisted of something which was set on 6re for the purpose, and tlie burning light was held up upon the turrets of the Fort, by what was called the crois-tdraidh^ or crdnn-tdraidhy that is, a fire-cross, or gathering-beam. The crois-taraidh was made use of in various manners. Sometimes it consisted of a piece of wood half-burnt, then dipped in the blood of a goat, lamb, or any other animal, and finally circulated by emissaries as a signal of distress. Under the feudal system, the crann-taraidh was used at a period not very remote. It is spoken of by Ossian, and Ullin, as well as by several modern Celtic bards.* When one chief had a feud with another, and wished to call his retainers speed!* ly together, he dispatched a messenger to the nearest hamleU with the blood-stained beam of alarm, who would deliver it to the first he met, and would only mention the place of rendezvous. The beam would then be similarly delivered in the next bam- let, and so on until it passed through the hamlets of several districts, and thus the vassals of the chief would appear at the appointed gathering station, in a few hours. Should any one presume to disobey the call of this blood-stained, though mute mes. senger of slaughter, he speedily forfeited his life for his neglect. It is said, that, in the year 1745, the crann taraidh was made to pass through ever^ hamlet in Breadal- bane in three hours. *< Ach ciod so*n solus ann Innisfail, O chr^nn-taraidh an fhuathais ? ISLAND or SKYE — KILMUIR. 267 There was an old chapel in the parish called Petn-na-citt^, where there were two erect stones^ at which the Druids are said to have worshipped. These stones were evidently part of a Druidical cir- cle, but were taken down some time ago, and human bones were discovered around them. Old men remark that there were an- ciently many Druidical circles and places of worship, the remnants of which have been destroyed by the progress of agriculture and other causes. There are vestiges of cairns and circles near the farm-house of Lonfern, at a place still called Totagan nan Druid'- hean. i. e. the little knolls of the Druids. Of old there were many erect stones in the place, as also cairns piled up in the form of a cone, with flat stones on their top, on which, it is said, sa(;ri6cing fires were kindled ; but most of these relics have been destroyed. When the lake of Colum-cille was drained, in or about the year 1760, there was an oaken boat discovered deeply imbedded in the bottom of the lake. It would seem, from its situation, that it must have been there for many ages. This boat, although not large in size, is said to have been much stronger, and far more firmly built than any of modern date. The iron rings which were fastened in the ends of it, were of almost incredible thickness, so much so, that they were converted into sockets for instruments used in the parish for tilling the ground. Parochial Registers. — Kilmuir has not the advantage of a pa- rochial register, of a later date than 1822. If there were any pre- vious to that date, they were either lost or destroyed. There are several excellent maps and surveys of the parish in the proprie- tor's possession, and in particular a nicely executed plan by Mr Matthew Stobie, in the year 1766. The Presbyterian ministers in the parish have been, Mr Kenneth Bethune, officiating in Kilmuir and in part of Snizort ; Mr Do- nald Macqueen ; Mr Donald Martin, late of Abernethy, in Strath- spey ; Mr Donald Ross, presently minister of Loth, in Suther- landshire ; and the present incumbent These, with the exception of some missionaries, are supposed to have been the only Presbyterian ministers who were settled in the parish. Messrs Donald and Alex- Togaibh bbur siuil, tairnibh bhur raimh, Grad ruithibh gu traigb, is buaidh leibh.**— Ullin. « But wbat light is this in Innis^fail, From the gathering beam of terror? Unfurl your sails, — ply your oars, Make haste to the beach, and may victory be yours.** 368 INVERNES8-SHIRE. » ander Nicolson, and others were in the place, but it is said that they belonged to the Episcopalian Church. Modem Buildings* — There are no modern buildings in the pa- rish, with the exception of the Government church and manse at SteinschoU, and it may be added, the parochial schoolmaster's dwel- ling-house, and farm-steadings. Both Scotch and foreign timber is used for building. As no lime is manufactured in the parish, it is generally conveyed by sea from Broadford, where Lord Macdonald allows it to his tenants, at a lower rate than what it can be disposed of to those from another property. The hamlets and cottages of the letters or small tenants are but of inferior construction. They are generally built of rude stone, and the intervening chinks are filled with dry mould in place of lime or mortar. As no wood for roofing grows in the place, the same is purchased on the mainland, and conveyed by sea to the parish. The roof of a letter's dwelling consists of six or eight rude cupples, made of unsquared timber, over which a few beams are laid transversely to support the " keb- hers," which in their turn support the turf and straw made use of as thatch. It must be acknowledged that there is as yet a want of cleanliness and comfort displayed in the construction of many of these dwellings. Notwithstanding the march of general improve- ments, still many of the Hebridean crofters, actuated by ancient prejudices and mistaken ideas, admit their cattle under the same roof with themselves. The houses generally consist of three apartments, which are separated either by stone walls or partitions made of wattled-work, straw, or reeds. The middle apartment is the one principally occupied by the family, who have the fire in the centre of the floor, over which the crook is suspended from the raflers above. On the one side of the 6re, a wooden bench or rude sofa is placed, of sufficient size to contain five or six people, while on the other side is found the good-wife's ** sunnag" or rus- tic arm-chair, of plaited straw, near which are the cradle, spin- ning-wheel, *' amraidb," or cup-board, a large covered pot con- taining the kelt for family dress, undergoing the slow process of indigo dye, and the other paraphernalia which are indispensable for immediate family use. The inmost apartment serves the pur- poses of barn or bed-room, sometimes both, while that next the door is occupied by the cattle. The houses are, for the most part, annually unroofed, for the purpose of applying the sooty turf and thatch, as manure for the potato ground. There are three meal-mills in the parish, one in each district. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 269 and all impelled by water. They are firmly built, slated, and well- finished. They consist of strong machinery, and are kept in good repair. Mill-stones, when required, are procured in the island of Rasay, of a suitable quality for the grinding of oats and barley. 1 1 1. — Population. It is quite impossible, in the present day, to specify numerically ihe amount of population in remote times. It is, however, per- fectly well ascertained, that tt must have been very small, as is evident from the fact, that farms which presently support fifty or sixty families were occupied, about half a century ago, by no more than the tenth part of that number. The civil parish consists of three districts, as already specified, viz. those of Kilmuir and Kilmaluag, which now constitute that part of the parish which remains attached to Kilmuir church ; and the district of Steinscholl, which is attached. to the Government church some time ago erected there. By a census which was carefully taken up by the writer of this account, in January 1837, the population of these several districts stood as follows : I. — Kilmuir District. Number of families in Kilmuir district, . . . 296 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . . 338 under 12 years of age, . 529 males in do. ... . 740 females in do. ... . . 865 Total population of Kilmuir district, . . 1605 II. — Kilmaluag District. Number of families in Kilmaluag district, . . .123 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . . 188 under 12 years of age, . . 203 males in do. . • . . .311 females in do. . . . • . • • . 359 Total population of Kilmaluag district, . . . 670 III. — Steinscholl District Number of families in Steinscholl district, . . . 320 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . . 376 under 12 years of age, . . 583 males in do. ... . . 795 females in do. ... . . 941 Total population of Steinscholl district, . . • 1736 IV. — Kilmuir and Kilmaluag Districts, Number of families in said two districts now attached to Kilmuir church, 421 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . • 476 J under ISS years of age, . • 732 males in do. . . . , • 1051 females in do. ..... 1224 Total population of the two districts attached to Kilmuir church, . ^275 270 INVERNESS-SHIUE. v.— Whole Civil Parish. Number of families in the three districts of the original civil parish, . 741 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . . 85*2 under 12 years of age, . . 1315 males in do. • • 1846 females in do. . • •2165 Total population of the whole original undivided parish, . . 401 1 The population of the whole united parish was in the year 1736 only 1230 souls. Nineteen years afterwards it amounted, accord- ing to Dr Webster, to 1572. In the year 1771, it was, according to Dr Walker, 1900 1791, . . 2060 1801, . . . 2555 1808, . 2995 1831, . . 3415 By the census taken in January 1837, . 401 1 souls. * The annual average number of marriages for the five years im- mediately preceding 1827 was about 21, while the same (owing to the adoption of salutary checks, which will be afterwards ad- verted to,) does not exceed 6 for the last twelve months. The average number of individuals in each family is 5§ nearly. In the two districts attached to Kilmuir church, there were 421 families in Januarv 1837, and onlv 190 divisions of land, in the shape of lots, croflts, and farms. Of these 421 families, 231 held no possessions whatever from the proprietor, but lived as a burden and drawback on the occupiers of the 190 divisions, either in the humble capacity of cottars, or as under tenants, who held shares of the said 190 divisions under the baneful system of sub- letting. As this process of sub-letting was annually progressing, the popu- lation, as a matter of course, was rapidly increasing, until it accu- mulated to an amount by far too large for being comfortably sup- ported by the produce or agricultural returns of the parish. Hence the origin of a redundant population ; and while that re- dundancy is permitted to continue, destitution and poverty, toge- ther with a train of concomitant evils, will be the sure but unhap- py results. From what has been stated, it will be seen, that, during the last six- * It will be observed that there is an apparent increase of 596 souls in the parish in the six years between 1831 and 1837 ; but it is only apparent, as the census of 1831, by being taken in summer, was under the real amount of population, as many were out of the country in quest of employment, who were not taken into the account. Tlie time of the year in which the census is taken has a material cflfect on the results arrived at. If taken in the summer months, many of the inhabitants arc out of the parish at fishing stations and public works. A census taken in the Hebridean parishes in the summer season is sure to give incorrect returns, unless the Government rt^ula- tions in regard to the census were deviated from, so fkr as to include the absent,nicm* bert of the several families. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. * 271 ty years, the population has rapidly increased, although at various times considerable numbers have emigrated to foreign lands. Within that period, the country has frequently been visited with scarcity ; but it was so at four diiTerent times to such a degree of severity, as to call forth public sympathy and aid. The general scarcity of Bliddhna na peasrachy or the pease-meal year of 1782, is not yet forgotten. In the same manner, the hardships of want were severely felt in the years 1807 and 1817 ; but the dis- tress of those seasons was trifling in comparison with that of 1836 and 1837, which will ever be memorable in the annals of this and other parishes.* It is impossible by any description to give an adequate idea of the calamities of the late destitution. The spring of 1835 was cold and inclement Sowing was of necessity late, and, owing to the moist state of the soil, a large portion of the seed never vege- tated. Potatoes were planted, but, from an unaccountable disease in that prolific and alimentary root, as well as from the coldness of the soil, the greater part decayed in the ground. In harvest the unripe fields were deluged with rain. The straw lost its sub- stance. The' grain remained unfilled, and the hopes of the hus- bandman for the support of his family and cattle were simulta- neously blasted. For the spring of 1836 the people were ill pre- pared. Their oats were damaged and scanty. Their potatoes were few, and of the worst quality. The fields were with difficul- ty tilled for the reception of seed, which gave but feeble hopes of vegetation. In many places, tracts of lands were cultivated which remained unsown. The cattle became emaciated on the sapless straw. The season advanced with every appearance of fearful re- sults. The natives, so justly characterized by their sense of pride and patience under the hardships of indigence, were forced to ac- knowledge their want of the necessaries of life. Already the re- sidence of the clergyman was daily frequented by groups of the helpless, as if he could procure immediate relief. The shores were ransacked late and early, and at all hours, for sea-weed and shell-fish, to afibrd a scanty repast. The fields were of unpro- mising appearance, and, before they arrived at any thing like ma- turity, October came in, with its piercing frost, and destructive storm of snow. Sad and distressing were the scenes of. hardship * An essay by the writer of this Account may be seen in No. 42 of Blackwood's Quarterly Journal of Agriculture, in which the causes which led to the destitution uf 1836 and 1837 are discussed at some length. 272 INVEKNESS-SHIllE. and waDt then witnessed. All classes of the lower orders, cottars and crofters, letters and land-occupiers of every grade, were si- multaneously overwhelmed in the general calamity. The atten- tion of gentlemen, both clerical and lay, was speedily aroused. The clergy who were located in the regions of distress, and were eye-witnesses to scenes of hardship which they can never forget, lost no time in framing and forwarding representations of the ca- lamity to all and sundry in the kingdom, who, they supposed, could afford relief. The British capital was visited by a deputa- tion of gentlemen, who relinquished for a time their several avo- cations, and, with minds teeming with philanthropy, aroused the sympathies, and the noblest feelings of the English nation, by ap- peals adorned alike with eloquence and truth. Those appeals the benevolent English could not resist, and the amount of liberality displayed on that occasion surpasses all admiration and praise.* The primary cause of the late destitution was a redundancy of population, occasioned by an injudicious system of manage- ment. The error of the system of management lay in the frequency of early and improvident marriages, encouraged by the introduction of the lotting system, which, in its turn, gave rise to bad husbandry. These several causes operated on each other with mutual influence, and acted in concert against the prosperity of the inhabitants. The amount of population was rapidly increas- ing, while the amount of the means of support for each family was, in the same ratio, diminishing. Poverty was speedily making in- roads among the people, and the seeds of wretchedness at a future period were rapidly growing up. The natives, however, might have for years borne up under the pressure and influence of these unfavourable circunistances, had not other external causes come to operate in unison with those just mentioned, to reduce them with accelerated speed, to poverty. These other causes were the fall in the price of cattle, — the failure of herring-fisheries, — the cessa- tion of kelp manufacture, — and the want of remunerating employ- * The writer of this Account cannot omit to notice, that, by the indefatigable ex- ertions in this cause of the Her, Norman Maclcod, D. D. of St Columba^s, Glasgow, and John Bowie, Esq., W. S., Edinburgh,— these gentlemen have won themselves a title to lasting honour. They not only exerted themselves with devoted industry to procure relief for the distressed in the years of scarcity already referred to, but they still exert themselves, in their different spheres, to get the Highlanders esta- blished on such a footing as to prevent (under Providence) the recurrence of fimihr destitution. A reduction of the overgrown amount of population is the only reme- dy for this desirable end. The people themselves are sensible of it ; and the gentle* men just mentioned are so sensible of it, that they are even now using their utmost endeavours to obtaiu a boon so loudly called fcr. ISLAND OF 8KYE — KILMUIU. 273 ment The only preventive remedy is to reduce the population by a Government system of emigration. The proprietor and managers of this estate, fully sensible of the truth of these statements, have already made a bold stand to arrest the progress of the evils complained of. The subdivision of lots and crofts has been prevented. The possessor of a few acres of land is not permitted, as formerly, to cut them up in shreds and patches, to afford a new and separate dwelling for each of his sons and daughters who resolve to get married. The yearly average of marriages is therefore not one-fourth of what it was some years ago. Measures are therefore prudently adopted to en- large the possessions of the tenant, by adding the lands of such as emigrate to the adjoining allotments. Even this year (1840), a good deal has been accomplished in this way, as about 700 souls have emigrated to America from this and the adjoining parishes, by means of assistance which was benevolently afforded them by the Noble proprietor and the Edinburgh Destitution Committee. But much remains to be yet effected, were Government to see the propriety of removing the redundant population, so as to give am- ple scope to the working of the salutary system now introduced. Character of the People. — The character of the people is great- ly influenced by the effects of a redundancy of their number. These effects, however are so obvious, that they need not here be specified. Notwithstanding the many unfavourable circumstances under which the natives are placed, they are peaceable, orderly, and dis- tinguished for general good conduct. In no place can a popula- tion be found more hospitably inclined in their own humble way, or more kind and attentive to strangers. They are naturally shrewd and sensible, and possess considerable acuteness and viva- city of intellect. They are certainly a temperate people, and taint- ed with few vices. The language both spoken and preached is the Gaelic The higher orders, of course, speak English, and most of the young men partially understand it Although the Gaelic has perhaps lost no ground for half a century back, yet it has suffered materially in purity. As the young men resort annually to the south country in quest of employment, they invariably acquire a smattering of English, many words of which, they unfortunately intermix, by a sort of pride, with their own emphatic and venerable language. The Highland dress is now worn by none in the parish. Owing 274 INVERNES3-SH1RE. to the excess and poverty of the population, and the high price of wool, the natives, notwithstanding their exertions and industry, are generally but scantily^supplied with bed-clothes and wearing ap- parel. The females, for the most part, weave the country cloths of all kinds, and are very expert in dyeing all colours to much per- fection. The country people tan their own leather, sometimes with the bark of the birch tree, but for the most part with the roots of the Tormentilla vulgaris. They generally make their own shoes or brogues, which they finish very neatly with no sort of hempen thread, but with a thong cut from the dressed hide of a calf. Superstitions. — The age of superstition may be said to be now gone, as the vestiges which remain of it are but comparatively few, and have but little influence over the minds of the greater portion of the natives. At one period, however, the case was otherwise, when the existence of second-sight, and of other super- natural phenomena, was as firmly believed in the Hebrides, as the writings of the Apostle Paul. On this subject there have been many arguments, and keen discussions among the learned, and much has been written on both sides of the question. The person who had the misfortune to be gifted with the second- sight was called Taibhsear^ or seer. He was considered by him- self and others to be unhappily gifted, and on that account no one envied him for his unnatural .attainments. The visions were ge- nerally about shrouds, funerals, corpses, the appearance of friends or others, who were at the time in distant countries, — the arrival of strangers, swamping of boats, drowning at sea, dropping sud- denly dead, and numberless other subjects. The faculty which a taibhsear was said to possess had a strik- ing resemblance to the clairvoyance of the animal magnetists. Many astonishing cases might be mentioned of taibhsearachd, or second-sight, wherein it would appear impossible that either fraud or deception could exists It may, however, be naturally asked, if the gift was at one time so common, and if so many were, with so much certainty, possessed of it, why it has wholly disappeared from those very localities in which it was once so prevalent? Martin, in bis book on the Hebrides, alludes to many even in this parish who were, according to him, undoubted taibhsears ; but although we have now four individuals in the place, for every one individual in his day, we would look in vain among the whole population for a single taibhsear. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 275 Dr Beattie ascribes the pretended faculty to the influence of physical causes on superstitious and unenlightened minds. He endeavours to trace it to the effects which wild scenery, inter- spersed with valleys, mountains, and lakes, has upon the imagi- nation of the natives. But were this the case, second-sight would still exist, as the rocks, valleys, and mountain-scenery still exist as wild and fantastic as ever, to affect the imagination of the people. Others maintain that second-sight arose from optical il- lusions, and others from ignorance, the great mother of all super- stitions. It is remarkable, when Dr Samuel Johnson visited this Island in 1778, and heard a variety of plausible instances of the prophetic powers of the second-sight, that he gave credit to it, and expressed his surprise that it was disbelieved by the clergy, while all others were inclined to believe in its existence and truth** Somewhat analogous to the pretended faculty just described, yet different from it, are certain prognostications of death, which are seen in the shape of blue quivering lights, resembling the fee- ble flame of a taper. These have been observed moving along in the course which some funeral procession would soon thereafter take, or perhaps twinkling in or about the bed in which some in- dividual was soon to die. Of the existence of such lights, what- ever their cause, no shade of doubt can be entertained, as they have been frequently seen by several individuals at the same time, whose minds were tinctured neither by prejudice nor by the reve- ries of any superstition. Some time ago the natives flrmly believed in the existence of the " Gruagach," a female spectre of the class of Brownies, to whom the dairy-maids made frequent libations of milk. The <^ Gruagach" was said to be an innocent supernatural visitor, who frisked and gambolled about the pens and folds. She was armed only with a pliable reed, with which she switched any who would annoy her, either by uttering obscene language or by neglecting to leave for her a share of the dairy production. Even so late as 1770, the dairy-maids who attended a herd of cattle in the Island of Trodda, were in the habit of pouring daily a quantity of milk on a hollow stone for the " Gruagach." Should they neglect ta * Should the reader feel inclined to have more information about the second-sight, and to know the arguments for and against it, let him consult Martin's Book on the Hebrides; Maoleod of Hammer's do. on second>sight ; Theophilus Insulanus'a word on do. ; Dr Beattie's works ; Dr Samuel Johnson's do. ; General Stewart's Sketches on the Highlanders ; Dr Ferriar on Apparitions ; Sir J. G. Dalyell on the Darker Superstitions of Scotland, &c. 276 INVERNBSS-SIIIRE. do 80, they were sure of feeling the effects of Miss Brownie's wand next day. It is said that the Rev. Donald Macqueen, then minister of this parish, went purposely to Trodda to check that gross superstition. He might then have succeeded for a time in doing so, but it is known that many believed in the Gruagacb's ex- istence, long afier that Reverend gentleman's death. Besides the votaries of this ridiculous superstition, there are others who confidently believe in the existence of a malignant look, or evil eye, by which cattle and all kinds of property are said to suffer injury. The glance of an evil eye is consequently very much dreaded. No doubts are entertained that it deprives cows of their milk, and milk of its nutritive qualities, so as to render it unfit for the various preparations made from it This supersti- tion can certainly lay claim to great antiquity. ** Nescio quia teneros oculus mihi fascinat agnos.**— Viro. IV. — Industry. Apiculture, — The following table exhibits the contents of the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained : Arable. Green Pasture. A H, F A R F Steinscholl district, 1187 2 35 956 1 l' Kilmaluag district, 1036 2 27 1648 3 8 Kilmuir district, . 2603 5 1734 1 5 Hill pasture common to the whole parish^ Hill Pasture. A. R. F. 7160 2 24 614 1 38 244 36 Sum total. A. R. P. 9304 2 20 3299 3 33 4581 2 6 12101 2 8 Whole original parish, 29287 2 27 Immense tracts of waste ground are found in the place, which might be brought into cultivation by a proper system of manage- ment, at comparatively small expense. By means of trenching, and the application of lime, the agricultural value of the parish might be greatly enhanced. The average prices of the various commodities in the place, to- gether with the rates of labour, &c. are given as correctly as pos- sible in the following list : Rent of arable land per acre, 8s. Grazing and -wintering a cow or ox, L. 3. Grazing a ewe, or full-grown sheep, 48. Wages of male servants per annum, L. 5. Do. maid do. L. 2, lOs. Rate of labour per day, 1 s. 6d. Do. of country artisans per day, 2s. Do. masons, carpenters,&c. per day,28.6d. Butter per lb. 9d. Cheese per lb. 3td. Potatoes per barrel. Is. 9d. Oats per peck, Is. 2d. Small bearded-oats per peck, (now near« ly extinct) 6d. A barrel of cured herring, L. 1, 5t. Barley per peck. It. 2d. Oatmeal per sack of 280 imperial lbs. L.2. Barley. meal per do. L- 1, 12b. Sythe oil per gallon, 2s. 6d. Coarse country cloth per yard, 28* Strong home*hich formerly prevailed here, as well as in other parts of the Highlands, is wearing away. Such as pretended to be gifted with this supernatural quality seem now to think their first sight is quite sufficient for all necessary and useful purposes, without the aid of the second ; and that the reali- ties of the present world give them enough to do, without troub- ling themselves about what is going on in the world of spirits. Habits, — In cleanliness and other domestic comforts, there is ample room for improvement. The Highland dress is wholly extinct, and their clothing now consists of kelt or tartan of their own manufacture. The walls of their mean huts are commonly built of stones, and, instead of mortar or lime, the middle is cram- med with earth to keep out the cold air. The interior is divided into two or three apartments by a thin partition of boards, or a few small sticks woven with straw. The apartment next the door being appropriated to the cattle, is much lower than the rest of the house, in order to give room to the dung to accumulate, which is seldom removed oftener than once or twice a year. Of the other two apartments, one is the sitting-room of the family, and the other both bed-room and barn ; but some have a separate place for thrashing their corn. The fire is placed in the middle of the floor, and the smoke finds its way through a hole in the roof, or by the door. The leading articles of furniture, which is of the humblest despription, consist of a table of very rough workmanship, a few stools, two or three chairs, and an easy chair called sunnag^ made of straw, and the sole property of the goodwife. In the more respectable houses, there is along the wall a bench made in the form of a sofa, on which half-a-dozen of people can sit. In such as want this convenience, there is a row of stones covered with turf. The door is the principal aperture for the admission of air, which, as the cattle enjoy the benefit of it first, cannot be of the purest description when it reaches the rational inmates. Light is admitted through a few panes of glass placed in the thatch. Character, — The people are kind and hospitable as far as their limited means permit. The stranger is always a welcome guest. It must, however, unwillingly be acknowledged, that they do not live upon terms of such sincere and cordial friendship with one another as they did some thirty or forty years ago. Passions which interrupt the peace and harmony of the neighbourhood prevail ; petty thefts are on the increase ; litigations are more frequent ; and disputes, which used to be amicably settled ISLAND OF SKYK — SNIZOIIT. 293 through the intervention of kind friends and neighbours, are now brought for decision before courts of justice. For the truth of this statement, the great number of cases brought before the local courts is a suflScient proof. This decline of morals is chiefly to be attributed to their poverty. In consequence of the crowded state of the population, the tenants have sunk to the rank of let- ters, having but a small portion of the land which they occupied when there were but few to cultivate the soil. Want is driving many to seek in the wilds of America for the comforts denied them in their native land. The ordinary food of the peasantry consists of oat-bread, fish, and potatoes, the last of which constitutes the principal part of it. IV. — Industry. Jgriculture. — From the physical quality of its surface, a great part of this parish must remain an uncultivated waste. Pas- turage forms the principal employment of a great part of the in- habitants. Like the Germans of Tacitus, ^^ their pride consists in the number of their flocks and herds : these are their only riches, and in these they place their chief delight." Their cows are more celebrated for their fine symmetry, than for the quantity of * milk which they yield. On the large farms, agriculture is now conducted on scientific principles. Carts, ploughs, and other im- proved implements of husbandry have been introduced, and the system of cropping in rotation is practised to a considerable extent. But on the small lots, the mode of tillage pursued is tedious and extremely defective. Crooked ridges, stretching in every direction, and separated by broad useless spaces, from which the soil has been scraped to enrich the arable portion, meet the eye. The soil is broken up by the caschrom^ and when sown is harrowed by women, who are also employed in carrying out the manure in creels to the field, and other drudgeries of the same nature. It cannot but give pain to every benevolent mind to see not only young women whose delicate frame should exempt them from such hard labours, but even mothers employed as beasts of bur- den. Fisheries. — There is a fishing-station at the head of Loch Sni- zort, where salmon are caught. Several tons of cod and ling are annually sent to Glasgow and Liverpool. The herring-fishing at one time, besides aflbrding a plentiful supply of provisions to the people, formed a very lucrative article of commerce. Herrings were, some years ago, caught in such abundance in the y ares or cairidliSj (large circular mounds erected at the head of tVv^ ^"k^^ '294 INVERNESS-SHIRE. in shallow water), as to become a nuisance before they could be salted ; but now they seldom visit the coast. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication^ — There is an excellent road running through the whole length of the parish, and affording an easy communication with Portree, the nearest market-town ; and there is a receiving-house at Uigg, to ^hich the Harris packet comes once a-week for the mails. Ecclesiastical State, — The church, which is situated at the head of Loch Snizort, near the southern extremity of the parish, was built about forty years ago. It was originally intended to accom- modate 450 sitters; but, from the great increase of population, being considered too small, it was lately enlarged by the addi- tion of 300 sittings ; the expense of which was defrayed by private subscription. The manse, which is 'situated near the church, was built at the same time, and has lately undergone repairs. The stipend amounts to L. 150, and the value of the glebe is about L. 15 a -year. The minister of the parish preaches also every third Sunday at Uigg, one of the most destitute localities in the Highlands. The Antipaedobaptists, who are the only Dissenters in the parish, have a meeting-house here, and have been making some converts ; but, from recent events, there is reason to believe that their progress is more rapid than lasting. There are not more than thirtv members in full communion with their church. Education. — Besides the parish school, there are two other schools in the parish, one at Uigg, on the Assembly's scheme, and the other called Macdermid's Institution, from the name of the benevolent individual who endowed it, in the district of Borve. Mr Donald Macdermid, late of South Carolina, bequeathed L. 1000 to endow a school in Borve, where he was born, for the purpose of teaching English, writing, and arithmetic gratis to the poor children of that district. In building a suitable school- house, and improving an acre of land for the schoolmaster, about L.200 were expended by the trustees, which lessened considera- bly the original fund ; yet, by accumulation of interest and good management, they expect to give a salary of L.35 to the school- master, who is allowed to take moderate fees from such scholars as can afford them. The school is in high repute and numerous- ly attended. Lord Macdonald's factor, the ministers of Portree, Snizort, Kilmuir, and Donald Macdonald, Esq. of Skeabost, his ISLAND OF SKYE — BUACADALE. 295 heirs and successors, are trustees, with unlimited power as to the management of the school, and appointment of the teacher. Ow- ing to the poverty of the people, the fees in each of these schools are very inconsiderable. Fuel. — The fuel is peats, which the women carry home in creels on their backs, from a very great distance. April 1840. PARISH OF BRACADALE. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLEKELQ. THE REV. JOHN R. GLASS, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of the parish, which appears to be com- pounded of the Celtic adjective breac (spotted,) and the Norse word dale (field,) has been the same from time immemorial. Extent — Its length is about 20, and its extreme breadth about 8 miles. Boundaries^ tfc. — It is bounded on the south and south-west by the sea ; on the north, by the parish of Duirinish ; on the east, by the parishes of Snizort and Portree; and on the south-east, by the parish of Strath. Its form is very irregular, being intersected by arms of the sea in various directions. The only hills in it of par- ticular interest are part of that ranged called Coullin, stretching along the boundary between it and the parish of Strath, and so justly celebrated for their picturesque appearance ; and a hill call- ed Priosmheallj overhanging the farm-house of Tallisker. But the surface is in general very hilly. In that district of the parish called Minginish, there are various valleys which form almost the only low and flat lands ; but that of Tallisker b the only one worthy of particular remark, its forma- tion being highly romantic, and its soil particularly fertile. In the other district, there are several detached fields along the coast * Drawn up by the Rev. Roderick Macleod, formerly Minister of Bracadalc, now of Snizort. 296 INVEWNESS-SHIUE. The extent of coast is probably about 60 miles : it is flat in some places, but, for the most part, high and rocky. In the bays the shore is either sandy or clayey ; but in the more exposed parts of the coast very rough and stony. The principal bays are Lochs Bracadale and Eynort, both af- fording safe and commodious anchorage to vessels of any burden. The head-lands are Rhuandunan, the southernmost point of the parish, and Tallisker-head to the west, at the southern entrance of Loch Bracadale. The islands are Soay, Wiay, and Taarner ; the first lying about south-east by east of the point of Rhuandu- nan, opposite to Loch Skavaig, at the head of which is the cele- brated Coiruisffy (for a description of which and the surrounding scenery, the reader is referred to the notes appended to Sir Wal- ter Scott's poem of the Lord of the Isles) ; the two last lying at the mouth of Loch Bracadale, opposite Tallisker-head to the north. 11. — Civil History. Land-owner. — Macleod of Macleod is sole proprietor. Parochial Register. — The parochial register is but of a recent date, and is as regularly kept as the present state of the law will admit ; for, without a legislative enactment rendering it imperative on par- ties to register births and deaths, no regularity can ever be expect- ed in the matter. Antiquities, — There are no antiquities worthy of notice, unless it be the ruins of two circular towers, the most entire of wliich is close by, and seen from, the Parliamentary road, about a mile and a-half from the manse northwards. Modem Buildinffs.-r-The only modern buildings are the church, a distillery, two slated houses on feued ground lately built, and some farm-houses, all of the ordinary materials. III. — Population. At the time of the last Statistical Account, the population was 2250 souls. By the last census it was 1769, and since that pe- riod there has been a farther decrease. This decrease is solely to be ascribed to the system of farming which has for some time been adopted, viz. throwing a number of farms into one large tack for sheep-grazing, and dispossessing and setting adrift the small tenants. The aYcrage number of persons under 15 years of age is 589 betwixt 15 and aO, - 565 so and 50, - 295 50 and 70, . 221 upwards of 70, - 57 BIIACADALE. 297 There is only one gentleman of supposed independent fortune residing in the parish. There are about 20 unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers upwards of fifty years of age, and about 150 unmarried women upwards of forty* five years of age. The average number of chil^ dren in each family is 4. Language. — The language generally spoken is Gaelic ; and it has lost no ground within the last forty years. Habits ofthM People, — The habits of the people are far from cleanly. In their dress, they are not diflferent from the other inhabi- tants of the Hebrides ; and as to their food they are generally not considered ill provided, who can feed on potatoes and salt; and dur* ing the last season even that would have been a luxury to many of them. Regarding their comforts as to clothing, it may be suflS- cient to mention, that, when it was apprehended the cholera would spread to these quarters, inquiries were directed to be made on this point, and there were 140 families found in the parish who had no change of night or day-clothes. From the above remarks as to food and clothing, it must appear evident, that the people are far from enjoying the ordinary comforts of society ; and, un- der such circumstances, it is but natural they should feel discon- tented with their situation ; and if their complaints are not more loudly heard, one great reason is, that the system of farming pur- sued has placed them in such absolute dependence on the tacks- men, as to preclude any hope of amelioration. Charaeter.'-^Tlie people, in general, are shrewd and sagacious, and manifest a good degree of intellect as to the ordinary afiairs of life ; as to morality and religion, it is yet but a day of small things. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The number of arable acres, according to survey, is 4878 ; of pasture and hill- grazing, 68^811. From the system of farming already mentioned, the proportion of the arable ground in cultivation is inconsiderable. There is no arable land rented separately. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 3 per cow, and at the rate of 2s. 6d. per ewe for the year. Leases. — The general duration of leases is fifteen years. The staple produce of the parish is sheep and cattle, on the rearing of which considerable attention is bestowed. Of sheep, there are annually exported about 4500, and of black-cattle about 450. INVERNESS. U '298 INVKRNFSS-SHIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — There is a post-office at Struan^ about half a mile west from the manse, close by the Parliamentary road, which, from one end of the parish to the other, is in extent about twenty miles. The road and bridges are always kept in good repair. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated in a hollow spot of ground on the north side of a small arm of Loch Braca-i dale, called Lochbeg, within a few yards of the public road, about a quarter of a mile below the manse, as conveniently ds it could well be placed ; the greater part of the population being dis- tant six miles from the northern, and about fourteen miles from the southern extremity of the parish. It was built in 1831, and affords accommodation to between 500 and 600 sitters. The sit- tings are all free. The manse was built about forty years ago, and received some additions and repairs in 1828. The glebe contains about 30 acres, and its value is about L. 15. The amount of the stipend is L. 150. There is one missionary supported by the Royal Bounty. There is a catechist supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. Divine service is always well attended. The average number of communicants is about 20. Education, — There are five schools in the parish ; the paro- chial school, and other four schools, supported partly by societies, and partly by private subscriptions. The branches generally taught, are, Gaelic, English, writing, and arithmetic The sa- lary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 28. Those of the rest vary from L. 8 to L. 25. The amount of school fees, in all cases, is merely nominal. The parish schoolmaster is provided with the legal accommodation. The general expense of education is quite trifling. The number of the young between six and fifteen years of age who cannot write or read is nearly 400 ; the number of persons upwards of fifteen years who cannot read or write is near 800. The people, in general, are not so much alive to the benefits of education as could be wished ; at the same time, their poverty is such as to prevent them from following up their inclination in tliat respect, even to the degree in which it exists. There are some parts of the parish with a considerable popula- tion, several miles distant from any school. Two or three schools BRACADALE. 299 would supply this deficiency. The Gaelic schools, wherever they have been established, have evidently been instrumental in pro- moting the interests of morality and religion. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 64. The average sum allotted to each person is between 4s. and 5s. ; the annual amount of contribu- tion is L. 20, 12s.; of which L. 7 arise from church collections, L. 10 from a bequest, and L. 3, 12s. from money at interest To receive parochial relief was, till of late, almost universally consi- dered as degrading ; but that feeling is now rapidly giving way. There is an annual tryst held within the parish in the month of September. ^feAou5e«.— There are five licensed whisky houses; and whisky is retailed in various other places within the parish, to the mani- fest injury of the temporal interests of the people, and the pro- gressive and sure destruction of their morals. FueL — The only fuel used in the parish, except in gentlemen's houses, is peat. Miscellaneous Obsbrvations. The most striking variations betwixt the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, are, 1. The formation of a Parliamentary road, which goes nearly over its whole length : 2. The system of farming for some time followed, of several farms being thrown into one graz- ing: d. The erection and establishment of a whisky distillery. The first of these variations is a decided benefit to the parish ; the second, as decided a disadvantage to its general population ; and the third, one of the greatest curses which, in the ordinary course of Providence, could befall it or any other place. December 1840. PARISH OF STRATH. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. JOHN MACKINNON, MINISTER. 1, — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish is known by the names of Srath Mhic Jonmhuinrij or Mackinnon's valley, and of Strath'Swordale^ from the Gaelic word Srathj signifying a valley through which a river runs, and Swordale^ a place situated in the centre of the parish. But, for the sake of brevity, it is always called Strath. Exterd and Boundaries. — The extreme length of the parish may be estimated at about 26 miles, and its mean breadth at about 6 miles. It is bounded on the north, by the parish of Portree ; on the south, by the parish of Sleat ; on the east, by the sea, which divides it from the mainland of Applecross and Lochalsh ; and on the west, by the parish of Bracadale. Topographical Appearances. — To the admirer of nature, this pa- rish presents objects of noordinary interest. On its western boun- dary is situated a landscape of unparalleled grandeur. No place, perhaps, affords more picturesque subjects for the painter than parts of this parish. In it he meets with such prodigality of natural won- ders, that he must feel as if bewildered, and at a loss to make a choice. The scenery shifts at every step, and each successive view seems to excel the rest. The cloud-capped Cuillin raises its inacces- sible pinnacles beyond the other mountains, and is visible in almost every part of the island. Next in order Marsco, Blatk-Bheinn and Beilig shoot themselves forth in every variety of fantastic figure and appearance, each struggling for supremacy with its ^ neighbour, and each possessing every imaginable characteristic of native rudeness and grandeur. On entering the Bay of Scavaig, the spectator is struck with the rugged outline presented by the spiry and serrated peaks of the lofty Cuillin. On landing, he finds himself surrounded by rocks denuded of every vestige of vegeta- tion. As he advances, a valley, enclosed by mountains of the most precipitous character, opens to the view, thus encircling and form- ISLAND OF SKYE — STRATH. 30 1 ing the dark lake of QSir-Uisge, which is here and there studded with small green islands, contrasting remarkably with the surround* ing barrenness. ■ Rarely human eye has known A scene so stern as that dread lake. With its dark ledge of barren stone. Seems that primeval earthquakes sway Had rent a strange and shatter*d way Through the rude bosom of the hill. And that each naked precipice, Sable ravine, and dark abyss,^ Tells of tlie outrage still. The wildest glen, but this, can show Some touch of nature's glow ; On high Benmore green mosses grow, And heath bells bud in deep Glencroe, And copse on Cruachan-Ben ; But here, above, around, below, On mountain or in glen, Nortree— nor shrub.— nor plant— nor flower. Nor aught of vegetative power The weary eye may ken. For all is rocks at random thrown* Black waves— bare crags — and banks of stone. As if were here denied. The summer sun, thd spring's sweet dew. That clothe with many a varied hue The bleakest mountain side. — Lord of the Isles. A few miles to the south of this scene is a cave which has of late been frequently resorted to by travellers, from being one of the numerous places of refuge occupied by Prince Charles Ed- ward Stuart during his eventful career. Proceeding again to the northward, we soon reach the far-famed Spar-cave of Strathaird. Here we have another most striking specimen of nature's grandest workmanship. Every visitor must admire this lof^y vaulted cave, resplendent with pure white icicles of semitransparent spar, — and having its roof supported, and its sides decorated, with massive co- lumns and drapery of the same sparkling material. At the inmost recess, is a circular pond formed of shining spar, which nature has located there as a reservoir to contain the water which oozes through chinks of the roof. But of this fairy spot a more correct idea may be formed from the following lively description of it** • « The first entrance to this celebrated cave,*' says the author of Waverley, ** is rude and unpromising ; but the light of the torches with which we were provided was soon reflected from the roof, floor, and walls, which seem as if they were sheeted with marble— partly smooth, partly rough— seeming to be wrought into statuary. The floor forms a steep and diflBcult ascent, and might be &ncifully compared to a sheet of water which, while it rushed whitening and foaming down a declivity, had been suddenly arrested by the spell of an enchanter. Upon attaining the summit of the ascent, the cave opens into a splendid gallery, adorned with the most dasiling crystal- lizations, and finally descends with rapidity to the brink of a pool of the most lim- 302 INVERNESS- SHIRE. Meteorology. — The prevailing winds are the south and south- west, which generally prognosticate rain. North and east winds, on the contrary, are in summer the harbingers of fine weather, — but in winter of sleet, frost, and snow. The climate is cold, damp, and changeable ; and the complaints over which it may be said to exercise any influence, are, as may be supposed, acute rheumatism, pleuritic affections, consumption, and other pulmonary ailments. From the purity of the atmosphere, however, as well as from the refreshing nature of the sea air, the climato must be acknowledged upon the whole to be salubrious. Hydrography. — The parish presents an irregular figure, being much intersected by arms of the sea, all of which afibrd safe and commodious anchorage for ships of any burden. Fresh water springs are both numerous and copious. Many of them are strongly impregnated with iron. It also abounds with lakes, which, though of inconsiderable extent, are well stocked with trout, and some of them with salmon. Geology, — The mountains chiefly consist of trap and syenite ; the lower grounds and valleys of limestone. A bed of marl of the finest quality extends across the parish from the farm of Tor- ran on Loch Slappen, to Skinidean on the Sound of Scalpay. In some localities, the calcareous strata are to be found alter- nating with brown calcareous sandstone, and with shale, contain- ing the organic remains of fish and shell-fish. In the Island of Pabbay, on the eastern shore of the parish, petrified fish, princi- pally eels, from six to eighteen inches long, have been found in a high state of preservation. A variety of other kinds of fish, and also oysters, mussels, welks, and limpets, are frequently met with in the same state. From the head of Loch Slappen, a considerable alluvial deposit may be traced through the valley of Strathmore to Loch Eynort. Near Kyleakin, a deposition of greater importance occurs, occu- pying a space of about a mile along the shore. Dr MacCulloch regarded this as the remains of a plain formerly much more ex- tensive. He says that it exhibits the appearances which charac- terize the alluvial valleys through which active rivers have cut their way ; and that the supposition of this being the result of the pkl water, about four or five yards broad. This pool, surrounded by the most fanciful mouldings in a substance resembling white marble, and distinguished by the depth and purity of its waters, might have been the bathing grotto of a iV^/fo^."— Note V. Canto HI. of the Lord of the Isles. ISLAND OF SKYE STRATH. 303 decay of the mountains which back the plain, is invalidated by the presence of gneiss, hornblende, and schist, which do not occur in these mountains. Zoology. — Mammalia. — Red-deer abound in Lord Macdonald's forest ; and roe-deer are to be found in the woods. We have the fox and wild-cat, both particularly destructive to lambs, game, and poultry. We have likewise the weasel ; but the only polecat ever seen in the island was some years ago killed in this parish^ in the vicinity of one of the ferries to the mainland. From this circumstance, it is probable that it might have unobserved found its way across in the ferry-boat. The otter and seal are common, and are very destructive to salmon. Land Birds. — These are, grouse, black-game, ptarmigan, and partridges, the eagle, and a variety of hawks ; the raven, the hood* ed-crow, &c. &c. A grouse with white wings was last season shot on the property of Mr Macalister of Strathaird, and a rook with white wings has been observed in the parish. Aquatic Birds. — Wild geese, the cormorant, the scart, the teal, the mallard, the tern or sea-swallow, and a variety of gulls. Waders. — The heron, the water-hen, the corn -rail, the wood- cock, the snipe, the golden plover, the lapwing, &c. The corn-^ rail appears Qarly in May, and takes its departure in September. The woodcock appears early in October, and leaves early in March. Fishes. — These are, the salmon and trout, which ascend the rivers for spawning about the middle of September, and are suppos- ed to return to the sea in February : the cod, haddock, whiting, ling, lythe, coal- fish, skate, sand-eel, conger-eel, thornback, floun- der, sole, and, occasionally, a John Doree ; the angler or sea-devil, ihe grey and red gurnard, the mullet, the dog-fish, the king-fish, and cuttle-fish, &c. Shell-Fish. — At the Sound of Scalpay there is an extensive bed of oysters of a superior quality, but of small size. We have also the mussel, the cockle, the razor-fish, the welk, the crab, the limpet, and the lobster ; all of which are of considerable import- ance in an economical point of view, being much used as food by the lower orders during the summer months in particular, and du- ring seasons of scarcity in general. Botani/.-^The only plants peculiar to this parish are the rare Eriocaulon septan gulare ; and the Dryas octopetala of tho limestone, which occurs in great profusion. All the varieties of planted 304 INVERNESS-SHIRE. timber thrive well when duly fenced and properly preserved. An ash has beep observed to grow nearly four feet in the course of one season. Of all the indigenous timbers, the soil seems most congenial to ash, birch, and haiel. Apples, pears, cherries, goose- berries, and currants thrive well, and are found in all the gardens. It is evident that the pine must have, at some remote period, been a native of the parish, as the trunks of fir trees of considerable size are found deeply imbedded in the moss in different parts of it. II. — Civil History. This parish is known to have been, as far back as the year 1354, the family property of the Mackinnons, who took a prominent part in the turbulent proceedings of that period, as well as in the more recent disturbances of 1715 and 1745. The Mackinnon of that day, who espoused the cause of the Pretender, was arrested and taken to London to stand his trial for high treason ; and, after being confined for nearly twelve months in Tilbury Fort, the Go- vernment, in consideration of his advanced age, and seeing that he had been involved in these revolts rather from a spirit of chi- valry than of rebellion, set him at large, with liberty to return home. Being reminded by Sir Dudley Ryder, then Attorney- General, of tbe debt of gratitude which he owed to his sovereign for this act of clemency, when, by rebellion, he had forfeited both his life and property, Mackinnon quaintly replied, ^* Had I the King in my power, as I am in his, I would return him the com- pliment, by sending him back to his own country." William Alexander Mackinnon, Esq. M. P. for Lymington, and author of a work of great merit on Public Opinion, now represents the an- cient family of Mackinnon. The late Colonel Mackinnon of the Coldstream Guards, so well known for the elegance of his man- ners, and for his extraordinary feats of strength and agility, as well as for his distinguished bravery during the peninsular war, and in the ever memorable battle of Waterioo, was brother to the present chief. General Henry Mackinnon, so frequently and honourably mentioned in the Duke of Wellington's Despatches, and who fell at Cuidad Roderigo, after having in the most gallant style secured possession of that fortress, was his uncle. Land'oumers, — The only heritors in the parish are Lord Mac- donald and Mr Macalister of Strathaird. This parish, originally the property of Mackinnon, was purchased about eighty years ago by the Trustees of the great and good Sir James Macdonald, then a minor, from the Trustees of Mackinnon of Mackinnon, when a ISLAND OF 8KYE — STRATH. ' 30S minor also. The sale was afterwards reduced by the Court of Session, but, on s^peal to the House of Lords, it was confirm* ed« Although the people at the time, from feelings of clanship and attachment to their chieftain, were much displeased with the decision which had been come to by the House of Lords, yet they had no cause to regret the change, as each successive proprietor of the Noble family of Macdonald was invariably kind, attentive, and indulgent to their tenants ; and it is pleasant to observe, that the young and Noble Lord who now represents that ancient family, promises fairly to walk in the footsteps of his truly excellent pre- decessors. The property of Strathaird was purchased fifty-four years ago by Mr Macalister, who likewise proved a most kind and indulgent proprietor. He is now represented by his grandson, Mr Macalister of Loup, in Argyleshire, — a young man of much promise. Parochial Register. — The earliest entry in the parochial regis- ter is dated 1821 ; from that period it has been regularly kept* Antiquities* — There are the remains of several places of wor- ship, which were, in all probability, erected by the Culdees, who are well known to have, many centuries ago, built a great number of *^ Cills," or places of worship throughout the Hebrides, which they invariably dedicated to the most renowned of their saints. There is one at a place in the parish called *^ Ashig." But there can be no doubt that it was primarily dedicated to Saint Asaph, which appellation was gradually corrupted into Ashig. There is also one at Kilbride, (St Bride); one at Kilmarie, (cella Ma^ ricBf or St Mary's) ; and one in the Island of Pabbay. On the farm of Boreraig, we have Teampull Choaiuy or the Temple of St Coan ; and in the Island of Scalpay, Teampull Frangaig^ or the Temple of St Francis. In front of the minister's house, there are the ruins of a place of worship ; and close to it stands a rude obelisk of granite, about ten feet high, perfect* ly erect. It is known by the appellation of Clach na h-Annaity that is, the stone of Annat, — a goddess mentioned by mytholo* gists. Near this stone, is a copious well of excellent water, call- ed Tobar na h^Annait^ or Annan's Fountain, in which it is proba- ble the worshippers purified themselves. It frequently happens that the purest and most copious springs of water are dedicated by such worshippers to their tutelary saints ; and among the excellent springs with which this parish abounds one is considered superior to all, and is called Tobar Ashiffy or St Asaph's Well. We have 306 INVERNESS-SHIRE. also Tohar Chliamen^ or St Clement's Well. The principal place of worship was at Kilchrist, evidently Cella Christie — a burying- ground consecrated to Christ. This is in the centre of the pa- rish ; but, being found inconvenient on account of its remoteness from the more populous part of it, the new and handsome church, now building, is situated at Broad ford. On the west side of the parish are the ruins of seven Danish forts or duns. They are situated on high rocks or lofty head- lands, and were built without iportar. One of them was always built in view of one cr more of the rest, so that the first alarm of an approaching foe was almost instantaneously communicated to the whole country by the Crois-tdraidh or fiery-cross ; being a rude process of telegraphing by fire the intelligence of an enemy's ap- proach. This watch-fire was lighted on the tower from which the danger was first discerned. The process was repeated by the next tower in view, and so on until the intimation was transmitted with inconceivable celerity throughout the whole chain of towers with which the country was surrounded. On the east side are a number of tumuli, and in all of them which have been opened stone-cofiins, containing human bones or urns full of ashes, have been found. In these urns, small copper coins have generally been discovered. An urn, containing ashes and bones partially burnt, and a very thin copper coin, was found when digging the foundation of the minister's house. It is very probable that those whose remains were thus disturb- ed were strangers, and that the coins were de|)osited for the pur- pose of purchasing a right to the burying-ground. This opinion is greatly corroborated by the fact, that, in many parts of the High- lands still, when the remains of a stranger are committed to the dust, a coin is usually thrown into the grave^ so that he may, by purchase, acquire an undisputed right to his resting-place. A great variety of coins have been dug up at different times and places ; but, owing to their being much defaced, it could not be as- certained to what period they belonged. A coin of the reign of Henry VIIL, in a state of high preservation, was recently turned up on the glebe, and is now in the possession of the incumbent. Near the village of Broadford there is a cairn or barrow, in which a very remarkable vault has been discovered. It is arched in with a concave roof, having its top covered with a flag. This curious little chamber is securely although rudely built with stone, without any lime or mortar, and is of sufficient dimensions to permit ISLAND OF SKYE — STRATH. 307 a person to stand in it erect It was evidently the burying-place of some renowned character of old, and within it was found a rude buckle, probably belonging to the shroud of the person consigned to the dust ; and also a dark-green stone, about four inches long by two and a half in breadth, a quarter of an inch in thickness, and beautifully polished. It had a hole perforated in each corner, with one side partially concave, and the other convex. It appear- ed like an ornament belonging to the Highland belt. This stone and buckle were given to the late Donald Gregory, Esq., Secretary to the Antiquarian Society, Edinburgh. Eminent Men, — I am not aware that this parish ever gave birth to any person eminently distinguished in any walk of life. Some, however, were born in it, who have by their own merits attained a high and honourable rank in the army. Sir John Macdonald, the present Adjutant-General of Her Majesty's Forces, is son to the late Mr Macdonald, tacksman of Scalpay, an island belonging to this parish ; as was also Colonel Archibald Macdonald, who held the same situation in India ; and a third and no less distinguished member of the same familv? Colonel Alexander Macdonald of the Horse Artillery, whose devotion to his profession, as well as his bravery at the taking of Monte Video, the Cape of Good Hope, the whole of the peninsular war, and the battle of Waterloo, re- peatedly gained for him the approbation of the Duke of Welling- ton and Lord Hill. Colonel Macdonald is now Governor of Hon* duras. Modem Buildings. — The houses of the tacksmen are comfort- able and commodious, yielding in this respect to none of the same class in the Highlands. A village was commenced at Kyleakin, under the auspices of the late Lord Macdonald, but, from the want of capital in the country, it has made little, or no progress. There are, however, about a dozen of good slated houses at this place, including some shops, and a very comfortable well-kept inn. At Broadford, there are likewise a good inn, two shops, a mill, and a smithy. III. — Population. PopuUUon in 1801, . 1748 1811, 2107 1821, 2619 1831, 2962 Within the last forty years, the population of this parish has been more than doubled. In 1837, it amounted to 3450 souls ; but since that period, about 200 have emigrated to Australia. 308 INVERNESS-SIIIRE. The great increase of the population is to be attributed to the lotting system, by which tenants are supplied with small portions of land inadequate for their support But this is not all, for the possessions which were originally too contracted, were subsequently subdivided by the parents among the various members of the fa- mily as they got married. There was in this manner an accumu- lation of houses and families without any means for their support, or any prospect of comfort. This evil (for evil it must be called, when three, and in many cases four families are to be found occu- pying the lands which were originally barely sufficient for the sup- port of one family,) has been, and will continue to be productive of the worst effects here, as well as over a great part of the High- lands. And unless some method be devised to provide for the superfluous population, and to check its increase in future, the most disastrous consequences may be anticipated. Language. — Gaelic is the language of the country, and that for the most part preached ; but of late, in consequence of the con- stant intercourse held by the natives with the low country, it is very much corrupted with a mixture of English words and phrases. Habits and State of the People, — It is to be regretted that the people have not more regard to cleanliness. The cattle and poultry are generally to be found undef the same roof with the rational inmates, and separated only by a tallan or partition, for the most part made of stone or wattled-work, a few feet iu height. They wear home-made woollen clothes, and are very expert at dyeing almost all colours. Their diet chiefly consists of potatoes and herrings, occasionally varied with meal and milk. They are, however, contented with their condition, and, singular to relate, contemplate with uneasiness a permanent removal from their na- tive soil. As their possessions are too limited to afford employment for all who are located on them, almost all the young men leave the country annually, and resort to the south, in vast numbers, in quest of any employment which they may procure. In the same man- ner, many of the young women go to the Lothians in harvest to procure employment in reaping. They are generally most mind- ful and attentive in sending a part of their earnmgs home to their parents, to pay the rents, as well as for other useful purposes. C/uiracter, — They are, with few exceptions, of sober and cor- rect habits, — charitable to their less fortunate neighbours, — hos- pitable and attentive to strangers, — and obedient and respectful ISLAND OF SKYK — STRATH. 309 to their superiors. Flagrant breaches of the peace are almost un- known, there being but two instances on record of criminal prose- cutions against natives of this parish. . Longevity. — We have had several instances of longevity. A woman of the name of Mary Innes, a native of Ross-shire, died here some years ago at the advanced age of 1 10. The father of the present incumbent, who was for sixty-five years an ordained clergymen, and fifty-two years minister of this parish, died at the age of ninety-six, and to the last retained all his faculties unim- paired. Mr Macalister of Strathaird, died at the age of eighty* nine, and his sister, who departed this life last winter, attained the age of ninety-two. There are a few others now living between eighty and ninety years of age ; and one man in his eighty- fourth year, who never wore any dress but the kilt, and this year walk- ed twenty-four miles in one day. The number of illegitimate children for the last three years has been four. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Liord Macdonald's property in this parish con- sists of 54,768 acres, of which about 1800 are arable, 594 under wood, and the rest almost entirely green and hill pasture. The estate of Strathaird consists of 16^000 acres, of which about 300 are arable, and the remainder green and hill pasture. It is ob- served, that, where limestone abounds, the pasture is invariably rich and luxuriant ; but where whin and granite prevail, it is of very in- ferior quality. Husbandry. — The only grain raised is oats and bear. The cul- tivation of wheat has been attempted, but with no prospect of ade- quate remuneration. Potatoes, however, form the principal crop. They are planted in April and May, and are manured chiefly with sea-ware. In favourable seasons they yield an increase of about ten returns ; but even in the most favourable years, the supply is inadequate to the wants of the population. It is a remarkable fact, that in wet sea- sons, the quality of the potatoes is much superior to what it is in dry seasons, although the quantity is diminished. Turnips and clover are cultivated, and are found amply to remunerate the far- mer from their efficacy in the prevention of braxy. A consi- derable quantity of waste land was reclaimed by the late Mr Mackinnon of Corry. The district in the neighbourhood of his residence afforded the means of carrying on improYements, such 310 INVERNESS-SHIRE. as sea-ware, lime, marl, and shell-sand ; and of these facilities he amply availed himself, as did his active and vigorous mind of every thing that could benefit the country. He also did much in the way of draining, fencing, and enclosing his fields, as well as in plant- ing hedges and hedge-rows, which are now in a thriving condition. Although the crofting system was in many respects baneful and injurious, yet it had the perceptible advantage of improving the aspect of the country, as each crofter, by having a small allotment for himself, was anxious to turn it to the best account, which could not be efiected by the old run -rig system. Bone dust has been used with encouraging success, and amply remunerated the expense of applying it. Rent of Land, — The value of arable land may be estimated at 10s. per acre. The grazing of a cow at L.2, 10s. per annum^ and of a sheep at 2s. 6d« Wages. — Good fiirm-servants receive from L.6 to L.10 per an- num ; women from L.2, 10s. to L.3, 10s. ; carpenters and masons about 2s. per day with their victuals. Shepherds, instead of money wages, are generally allowed a house, 6^ bolls of meal ; the graz- ing of two cows, and of from 40 to 60 sheep per annum. Live-Stock. — The principal sheep stocks are of the Cheviot breed'; but there are some small flocks of the black- faced descrip- tion, which are esteemed more hardy. To the improvement of each breed their respective owners pay particular attention. A breed of black-cattle, of the most exquisite symmetry and beauty, was produced by the late 'Mr Macdonald of Scalpay and the late Mr Mackinnon of Corry, who, by much attention and expense in the selection of breeding stock, raised their cattle to a value never before attained in this country. The cattle of the small tenants in this parish are superior to those reared in the northern districts of the island, in consequence of their stocks having been always supplied with bulls by the individuals already mentioned. Quarries. — Freestone and marble, which abound in this parish, have been worked by Lord Macdonald, the former for building, and the latter for architectural ornaments in his elegant castle at Armadale. The marble quarries have also been worked by the Duke of Hamilton for paving the lobby of Hamilton Palace, and by the Board of Ordnance for powder-mill stones. It was, how- ever, abandoned by the Board, from the impracticability of finding blocks sufficiently large for their purpose. A lime-kiln is in operation in the vicinity of Broadford, which ISLAND OF SK YE— STRATH. 31 1 supplies an extensive district with lime of a superior quality. To the public it is sold at 9d. per boll ; but Lord Macdonald, with his usual attention to the interests of his tenants, binds the lessee of the lime kiln to supply them with lime for building at 6d. ; and for land at 4d. per boll. Fisheries. — The herring-fishing was at one time so productive in the bays of the parish, that 60 or 70 vessels, averaging about 40 tons, were annually engaged in it, and many of them carrying away several cargoes in the course of the year. It is still prose- cuted with considerable vigour, but for many years back with very indifferent success ; so much so, indeed, that where 60 or 70 vessels could formerly be loaded in a few weeks, one could not now be loaded in the course of a whole season. The failure of this most important source of emolument to many a poor and industrious fisherman on the west coast, is coeval with, and by many ascribed to the destruction of such countless multi- tudes of this prolific fish at the spawning season, on the east coast of Scotland. The cod and ling fishing is carried on during the months of January, Februacy^ March, and April. In favourable years, those engaged in it realize from L. 3 to L. 4 per man, be- sides having an abundant supply of other fish for the use of their own families. Salmon-fishing is carried on, but not on a very ex- tensive scale. It closes on the 14th of September, and does not generally commence until the middle of MayT V. — Parochial Economy. Alarket^Town. — At Broadford three markets are annually held for the sale of black-cattle and horses. Means of Communication. — Broadford is likewise a post-town, where the mails arrive and are despatched three times a week. Within the incumbent's recollection, letters from London took ten days in reaching Broadford, but now they arrive there on the third night. From Broadford the mails are carried across Kyleakin ferry, by a runner to Liochcarron, whence they are conveyed to Dingwall by a gig, having accommodation for the conveyance of passengers. About thirty miles of Parliamentary road, and ten of statute la« bour, pass in different directions through the parish. During the summer and harvest months we have a regular weekly communi- cation with Glasgow by steam-boats ; but in winter they ply only once a fortnight. Not many years ago, the voyage from Skye to the Clyde generally occupied from ten to fifteen days, while now it is usually performed in about thirty-six hours. 312 INVKUNESS-SHIRE. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated in the burying* ground of Kilchrist, and might accommodate about 200 sitters. It is very old, and was formerly a Roman Catholic place of wor- ship. It is now in a very ruinous condition, so much so, indeed, that for nearly two years back there has been no preaching in it. A very handsome and commodious church, to be seated for 600, has just been commenced at Broadford, as being a locah'ty more accessible to the bulk of the population. In the district of Strath- aird, in which divine service is performed every third Sabbath, a comfortable church was last year fitted up by the Trustees of Mr Macalister. But previous to this there was no church in that dis- trict ; and the incumbent's father when he preached there, officiat- ed in the recess or cavity of a rock, for a period of fifty- two years. There has never been a manse in this parish, the incumbents always occupying farm-houses in the vicinity of the glebe, which consists of 44 acres, and is valued at about L. 15 per annum. The stipend is L.271, 2s. 6d. The Crown is patron. An intel- ligent catechist, paid by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, is constantly employed. A Baptist missionary has been stationed here for the last twelve years ; but, from the firm attach- ment of the people to the Established Church, only sixteen con* verts have been made, and of these six are not natives of the pa- rish. Public worship is generally well attended ; but, owing to the extent of the parish, the ruinous state of the church, and the re- mote distance from it at which the ^eat majority of the people reside, their attendance is much influenced by the state of the weather. Education. — There are five schools in the parish, — one paro- chial, two unendowed, and supported by the parents of the chil • dren, and two on the establishment of the Graelic School Society. The parochial school is in the possession of an efficient teacher, and is well attended, particularly during the winter. The branches usually taught are, English reading, writing, and arithmetic. Very few now prosecute the study of Latin and Greek, although the teacher is well qualified to give instruction in those branches. From the detached position of the diflerent hamlets in the parish, the parochial school can never be generally useful to the inhabit- ants. Three additional schools would supply all our wants in the way of education, in a manner sufficient for the diffusion of useful and salutary knowledge ; and it is pleasant to observe that the peo- ISLAND OF SKYE STUATH. 313 pie in general are becoming more alive to the advantages of edu- cation. Fuel. — The fuel chiefly, it may be said entirely, used is peat, of which the supply is abundant and the quality excellent. It is pro- cured at comparatively little expense, being secured at a season of the year when there is a cessation from all other labour. Coal has been discovered on the estate of Strathaird, but was never wrought. The smith in that district tried its quality, and found it to answer his purpose well. Inns, — We have three inns, and in situations necessary for the accommodation of travellers. It cannot be said that they have any bad effect on the morals of the people. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the former Statistical Account of this parish was drawn out, various changes of importance have been effected. The means of diffusing useful knowledge have greatly increased, and the facilities for the attainment of general improvement have been extensively afforded. Improvements have taken place in the modes of communication with other parts of the kingdom. The mails have been accelerated — roads have been formed in all directions — steamers and other packets have been established. But al« though the benefits arising from such modes of communication are great, yet some of them are attended with disadvantages, as they are the means of introducing into the country a variety of vagrants, such as gipsies, rag-men, venders of crockery, tinsmiths, egg- dealers, and old-clothes-men. By characters of this description, manners and habits, which were formerly unknown to the lower orders, are gradually introduced, such as tea •drinking, tobacco chewing and smoking. The disadvantages of such habits are sufficiently apparent ; and while temperance and total absti- nence societies, in regard to spirituous liquors, are establish- ed with such noted success throughout the kingdom, we would earnestly recommend anti-tea and tobacco societies to be set on foot here, — much more money being uselessly lavished on these ar- ticles than on intoxicating liquors of any description. Of late years, the sale of eggs for the Glasgow market has be- come a general and useful traffic ; but it is matter of regret that the money thus realized, which must amount to at least L.100 per annum, should not be laid out more usefully than in the procur- ing of tea and tobacco. Great improvements have taken place in the agriculture of the INVERNESS. X 314 INVERNESS-SHIRE. parish, from draining, trenching, fencing, and the application of lime, marl, and shell-sand. The cdschrom, or crooked-spade, is giving place to the plough, which is now drawn by two horses in- stead of four, as was the case not many years ago. The pannier or creel is also giving place to the cart, which is now in common use. The small oat is also fast disappearing, and, from the diflFer- cnt varieties of great oats, we have fair returns ; but unless the seed is frequently changed, they soon degenerate, owing no doubt to the moist and cold nature of our climate. The crops, however, in the most favourable seasons, are inadequate to the support of the superabundant population. The consequence is, that they annually suffer privations in a greater or less degree. In the years 1836 and 1837, this parish, in common with the rest of the Highlands, experienced the effects of the alarming des- titution, which was so prevalent in consequence of the failure of the crops in general, and of the potatoes in particular, from some unaccountable causes. And had it not been for the laudable and philanthropic exertions of John Bowie, Esq. W.S., agent for Lord Macdonald, and of Dr Norman Macleod of Glasgow, and the timeous relief procured by the appeal of these gentlemen to a li- beral public, a fearful loss of life must have been the consequence. The recurrence of similar calamities can only be prevented by striking the evil at the root, — by the establishment of a systematic emigration conducted upon proper principles, and holding out such inducements as will overcome the amor patricB so strongly im- planted in the breast of every Highlander. If the indefatigable exertions of Mr Bowie to benefit the High- lands, and to promote emigration, were responded to by the High- land proprietors, with that energy which his judicious suggestions on this subject so well merit, and which the state of the country so loudly calls for, not only would they find it for their own ulti- mate advantage ; but their people might again be restored to the enjoyment of a competency of the necessaries of life, and to that status in society which they held until the introduction of the lot- ting system, at which period some of the best of the small tenants of this parish left it for North Carolina, one of whom brought more capital along with him than is now in the joint possession of all the tenants who occupy the farm which he left. All traces of the feudal system have now disappeared, and most of the ancient manners and customs peculiar to the Highlanders have long ago sunk into oblivion. At one time the feudal lairds ISLAND OF SKYE — STBATH. 3|5 and chieftains had full power over the life and death of their vas- sals, and their injunctions, however unreasonable and severe, were peremptory. The following is a striking instance of the remarka- able habits that prevailed even in times comparatively modern. Until within the last ninety years, it was customary in this is« land when a tenant died, that the best horse in the possession of the widow was claimed by the laird, who sent his ground-oflScer or under factor to demand it immediately after the interment This barbarous custom was tamely submitted to until it was checked by the following occurrence : A man of the name of Mackinnon in this parish, having died, the best horse in the possession of the poor widow was as usual claimed for the laird by the ground- olBSccr, who, in executing his cruel order, experienced so much resistance from the poor widow, that he beat and bruised her to the effusion of her blood, when she told him that she hoped her son, then about a year old, would some day be revenged of him for the treatment she had that day received. Some years thereafter, the same ground-officer came upon a similar errand to a neighbouring farm, when he behaved with his usual insolence to another poor wi- dow, whom he likewise deprived of her best horse. This having come to the knowledge of young Mackinnon, then in his eigh- teenth year, and considered the strongest man in the parish, he pursued the ground-officer, whom he overtook within three miles of the laird's house, and desired him immediately to deliver to him the widow's horse, at the same time putting him in mind of the treat- ment which his mother had received at his hands. The ground- officer refused to part with the horse, upon which battle was offered and accepted, but soon decided in favour of Mackinnon, who, with his dirk, cut off the head of his antagonist, washed it in a well by the road-side, which is still known by the name of Tobar a^chinrij or the well of the head, — mounted the horse, and appeared at the laird's gate, having the head on the point of his dirk. Such an unusual spectacle attracted the notice of the servants, who in- formed the laird that Donnuchadh Mor, alias Big Duncan, was at the gate with the ground-officer's head, very anxious to see him. The laird could not at first believe that such a diabolical deed could be perpetrated, not knowing the causes which led to it. But, upon coming out, he was shocked to find the report correct; and, upon hearing Donnuchadh Mor'saccount of the recent trans- action, as well as the inhuman treatment which the mother had received seventeen years previously, he granted him a free pardon 3!C INVERNESS-SIIIllE. and appointed him ground-officer, telling him, at the same time, that no widow upon his estate should ever again be deprived of any part of her property. About thirty years ago, an old man of the name of John Mac- innes died in this parish, who was one of the crew which ferried Prince Charles Stuart from Strathaird to the mainland. The Prince was at this time accompanied by the chief of Mackinnon, who remained along with him until he should see him safely embark- ed for France. Such being Mackinnon's intention, he despatch- ed the boat and crew home; Before, however, they landed on their native island, they were espied by Captain Fergusson, who was at the time in search of the luckless Pretender, and were taken on board his sloop of war to undergo an examination as to their knowledge of the Royal wanderer's movements. Macinnes be- ing the principal man in the boat, and refusing to give any intelligence on the subject, and spurning at the reward offered for betraying the person whom he conceived to be the king of his chief, was ordered to the yard-arm to receive 500 lashes. At every fifty, he was asked to give the necessary information, which he scornfully refused to give ; and at last, after having en- dured the full amount of the punishment awarded to him, he was set at liberty, or rather thrown into his boat apparently more dead than alive. The writer of this Account has a perfect recollection of seeing the marks of the " cat-o'-nine-tails" on Macinnes's back, and of hearing him relate the cruel treatment which he had received. The poor man always became furious when Captain Fergusson's name was mentioned. There is an immense block of granite on the glebe, weighing at least six tons, which is so nicely balanced on a level lime rock, that it moves by the slightest pressure of the finger. It has been evidently placed there by the ingenuity of man, but in what man- ner, or by what mechanical power, is a subject for the antiquarian to discover. Within the last three years, about 200 souls have emigrated to Australia from this parish. It is earnestly hoped that the favour- able accounts of those who have settled there, will induce many of the people to avail themselves of the great boon which is now offered to them, viz. a free passage, with every necessary and de- sirable comfort during the voyage. And so satisfied is the writer of this Account of the prosperity of that colony, that he has done all in his power to persuade his poor countrymen to emigrate to ISLAND OF SKYE — SLEAT. 3J7 that country; and, to convince them of his good intentions, as well as to prove the sincerity^ of his advice, he has himself sent thither three of his sons within the last two years, and, if spared for a few months longer, he proposes to send a fourth. Jpril 1840. PARISH OF SLEAT. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. ^ THE REV. ALEXANDER M'lVOR, MINISIER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent^ Boundaries^ §y.' — Sleat forms the soiUh*eastern part of the Island of Skye. The parish commences to the north at Kylc-rhea, — a narrow ferry which separates Skye from the mainland of Glenelg, and it extends to the south-west along the sea. To the north, it is bounded by the parish of Strath, from which it is divided by a high ridge of hill from Kyle-rhea to Loch-in-daal. Opposite to Loch-in-daal, another branch of the sea, called Loch-Eishart, comes in from the westward, and is se- parsited from Loch-in-daal by a narrow isthmus, about half a mile in breadth. * The parish from Loch-in-daal forms a peninsula, ex- tending westward to the point of Sleat The population is locat- ed on both sides of this peninsula. The length of the parish is about 25 miles, and its average breadth 5. Topographical Appearances, — The appearance of the parish is ill many places interesting. The plantations around Armadale Castle, and towards the manse, give it an aspect of high cultiva- tion, not expected in such a remote district ; and the extent of land in culture is considerable. Above the plantations and the cultivated land, the low and bleak moorland forms a contrast to the bold character of the Strath hills seen over it, and more es- pecially to the precipitous and serrated outline of the Cuillin hills, which are at no great distance. The climate is humid, and the people are, in consequence, subject to severe rheumatic com- plaints. Hydrography. — There are no lakes of any extent in the parish ; but there are a few moorland lochs, containing trout, that some- 3 18 INVERNESS-SHIRE. times afifora sport to the angler. The narrowness of the peninsula, of which the parish chiefly consists, precludes an accumulation of water sufficient to form a river of any magnitude. Botany. — The only thing worth mentioning under this head is, that the rare plant Eriocaulon septangulare is found in a lake Qear Loch-in*daal. 11. — Civil History. Land-owners. — Lord Macdonald is sole proprietor of the parish. Ancient and Modern Buildings. — The only ancient buildings deserving of any notice are two, viz. Dun-scaich, on the west side of the parish, and the Castle of Knock, on the east Botlf, I bor lieve, were the residences of the Barons of Sleat at a very remote period. Dun-scaich is the more extensive building ; and, from the remains of a prison and a draw*well, it must have been a place of considerable strength. The only mansion-house is Lord Macdonald's castle at Arma- dale. It is a modern Gothic building, erected about twenty- five years ago, after a design by Gillespie Graham, Esq. The lobby and staircase, from the correctness of architecture, and ele- gance of finish, are universally admired. The staircase windo w contains an elegant portrait of Somerled, Lord of the Isles, the founder of the family, in full Highland costume, done in stained glass by Egginton of Birmingham. This window gives^the lobby and staircase a splendid and dignified appearance. The public rooms are all handsome and well proportioned. Parochial Registers. — The only register belonging to the pa- rish is that of births and marriages, commencing in 1813) and re- gularly kept since that period. III. — Population. In the year 1755 the population amounted to 1250. When the former Statistical Account was written, the number of souls was 1788. In 1821, it amounted to 2237; in 1831, to 2756; and in 1837 it had increased to 3000. Character of the People. — If the absence of crime be taken as a test by which to judge of the character of a population, the people of Sleat will stand high. Interference on the part of the police of the country among them is unknown. Since my connection with the parish, fourteen years ago, I recollect only one case of theft, and the person then accused was evideitfly imbecile. The inhabitants may be characterized as sober and active; but it must be admitted that they want that persevering industry which is ne- ISLAND OF SKYE — SLEAT. 319 cessary to improve their condition. The able-bodied among them, after their potatoes are planted in the end of spring, go to the south in search of employment. They return again at Martinmas ; and their earnings go to pay the landlord's rents, and to support the weaker members of their families. The winter is almost altogether spent in idleness. There is no demand for labour in the parish, and hence there is only occasional exertion on the part of the people. As the summer's earnings are spent during the winter, there is sel- dom or never a fund laid up for sickness or old age ; and when either of these comes, there is great poverty and privation. Their clothing consists of cloth of their own manufacture. This they find fitter to resist the weather, than any manufactured in the south. Their food consists principally of potatoes. Oatmeal is a luxury among them, and butcher-meat is seldom tasted. Their poverty arises very much from over-population. There are 500 families in the parish. Of these only 6 pay upwards of L.50 yearly rent ; 269 pay from L. 10 to 7s. 6d. per annum ; and there are 225 families, comprising up- wards of 1100 individuals, located in different parts of the parish, who pay no rents, deriving their subsistence from small por^ tions of land given them by the rent-payers for raising potatoes. These are a burden to the proprietor, inasmuch as they destroy the land in cutting fuel and turf ; and are a grievous burden to the inhabitants generally, from the extent of pauperism prevail- ing among them. An adequate correction for such an evil is dif- ficult to be found. Their abject poverty stands in the way of any stimulus that may be applied for enabling them to better their condition ; and if matters are left as they are, there will very soon be such a mass of pauperism as it is alarming to contemplate. The most efficient remedy appears to be an extensive and well-regulated emigration. IV. — Industry. The parish consists of 1335 acres arable ; 3956 acres green pas^ ture ; 18,265 acres hill pasture ; and 500 acres wood. I believe the rental of the parish is about L.2400. Husbandry. — The management of the land depends very much on the tenant The tacksmen in the parish farm their arable lands regularly, — have a rotation of crops, — and pay great attention to the rearing of their sheep and cattle stocks. The case is different with the crofters. Their principal object is to raise potatoes ; and, as they use little manure except sea- weed, the quality of the root is bad, and the ground impoverished. Their cattle and sheep stocks 320 INVEUNESS-SHIRE. are also mistnannged. They keep nearly a double stock on their hill pastures ; hence the animals are stinted in their growth, and are generally worth little. Were a moderate stock kept, and their arable lands properly tilled, I have no doubt the people's comfort would be materially improved. Leases. — The five tacksmen in the parish alone possess leases, the duration of which is generally fifteen years. The others are all tenants at will. Improvements. — Extensive improvements have been made on Lord Macdonald's farm of Armadale. Much land has been re- claimed, and the fields are regularly divided by ditches and hedges. Planting has been carried on there also on an extensive scale, and the parish has now the advantage of being able, from thinnings of wood, to supply itself with such timber as is required for boat-building and agricultural purposes, — an advantage it possesses over the other parishes in the island. Among some who have made improve- ments in the parish, Mr Elder of Knock, and late of Isleornsay, is conspicuous. The extensive fields of luxuriant and healthy pasture, both at Isleornsay and Knock, bear ample testimony to his industry, judgment, and enterprise, and form a strong contrast to the poor crops and bare pastures on the farms around Uim. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no towns or villages in the parish. Means of Communication, — A parliamentary road runs through the parish, opening the communication from Armadale to Broad- ford, a distance of sixteen miles. There are also district roads connecting different parts of the parish. A steam-boat from Glasgow to Portree calls once a week in summer, and once in three weeks in winter. Thus an easy access is opened by sea and land to other parts. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated at Kilmore about the middle of the parish. Itis an old building, and has the date 1631 marked on it It has been lately repaired, and is seated for nearly 500. Manse, §*c. — The manse was built about thirty years ago, and is a handsome building, near to the church. The glebe is arable, and may be of the yearly value of L.6. The teinds amount to L.62, 7s. 4d. per annum. '^Ttie balance of stipend is made up from the Exchequer allowance. There are 5 families Dissenters, viz. 3 Ro- man Catholics, and 2 Baptists. The people, for the most part» ISLAND OF StCYE — SLEAT. 321 are regular in attending on religious ordinances. Many come to church in winter, a distance of five and six miles. The average number of communicants is 200. Education. — There are three endowed schools in the parish : viz. the parochial school, near the church — an Assembly school at Tormore, in the southern part of the parish, and one from the So- ciety in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge. These three schools have suitable houses for their accommodation. A school from the Gaelic School Society has been established at the ferry of Kyle-rhea, opposite to Gienelg. Another schoo is wanted at Isleornsay, to place the means of education within easy reach of nil the inhabitants. A large proportion of the old people are unable to read or write ; but they all seem desirous that their children should be educated. Poor and Parochial Funds. — When the season is good and the crops plentiful, the poor having more or less crop, do not require the same extent of aid as in bad seasons. During the destitu* tion of 1837, nearly 1500 required aid; but in ordinary years, about 200 are left to depend more or less on others. The ave- rage amount of the collections from* 1826 to 1836 was L. 10 a-year. Since that period, owing to the landlord's absence from the parish, and other causes, the collections became merely nomi- nal, 80 that in 1836 the kirk^session came to the resolution of having no stated collection. The poor are now supported by the charity of their neighbours. All the rent-payers consider it a duty to appropriate a certain portion of their potatoes and corn for the poor, and in this way their wants have been hitherto supplied. When a case of extraordinary distress occurs, an occasional col- lection is made for its relief. This plan for the support of the poor may answer well in good seasons. But should a bad season come, and the crops fail, similar destitution to what took place in 1837 must recur. To afford to the poor the aid of food and clothing which their destitution requires, a permanent fund must be provid- ed, and this can only be secured by an assessment ; but, in the cir- cumstances of the parish from over-population, and its consequent poverty, this would introduce such evils^ that other means must fail before it be resorted to. At present, the situation of the people is gradually but surely tending to make an assessment ne- cessary. Fuel. — The only fuel is turf, which is good and abundant. 322 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the former Statistical Account was written, various im- provements have taken place in the parish. Excellent roads have been opened — extensive plantations have been made — and a large extent of land reclaimed. Steam-boats ply regularly, and facili- ties are afforded for the introduction of the comforts of civilized life. But no permanent improvement has taken place in the circum- stances of the people generally. Population has increased from 1788 to 3000, and lands which were then possessed by labour- ing tenants are now converted to sheep-farms. This has redu- ced the people's means of support. There are no manufactures, and, as they depend on land exclusively for their subsistence, an extent of poverty prevails among them now, to which formerly they were strangers. As yet, however, crime is unknown among them. A high degree of moral feeling has hitherto restrained them ; but it is to be feared that grinding poverty will break down this check, and introduce crimes at which they hitherto have shud- dered. December 1840. PARISH OF DUIRINISH. PRESBYTERY OF 8KYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. ARCHIBALD CLERK, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Duirinish, or more properly Duriniahy is by some resolved into two words of Scandinavian origin, signifying the pro- montory of Deer ; but more probably, the name is derived from the Gaelic Dur^ which, like the Latin Durus, signifies hard or rocky, and Irmisj a very common Celtic term, signifying indifTer- ently promontory or island. Dur-innis in the case before us, then, signifies the rocky promontory ; a designation which every one ac* quainted with the parish will acknowledge to be a very appropriate one, — as it forms a large promontory, singularly rocky and bold. This parish is, both in conversation and in writing, sometimes designated Kilmuir, a corruption of CilUMhuirey i, e. a place con- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 323 secrated to the Virgin Mary ; but Duirinish is the name by which it is generally known. Extent. — The extreme length of the parish from Unish to Idrigil is 19 miles; breadth, from Vaterstein to Lynedale, 16 miles. Its extent in square miles is about 100. But these dis- tances convey no idea of the difficulty of traversing it, it being in- tersected by arms of the sea, by hills and morasses, which render travelling through it a very arduous task. Boundaries. — It is bounded on the west by what is called the Minch, the channel which separates Skye from the Outer Hebrides ; on the north and north-east, by Loch Grieshcrnish, or Arnizort, a branch of Loch Snizort (except that a small strip of land to the east of this loch belongs to it) ; on the south and south-east, by Loch Bracadale, and one of its branches called Loch Carroy, and on the east partly by the parish of Snizort, and partly by that of Bracadale. Figure. — The form of the parish is as irregular as may well be conceived, and defies all power of minute description. On a general view, it presents the appearance of a large promontory, or rather peninsula, separated from the rest of Skye by a neck of low moorish land, about four miles in breadth, stretching from Loch Carroy to Loch Grieshernish already noticed. But this penin- sula is first subdivided by Loch Follart, or Loch Dunvegan, which, branching off the Minch, stretches due south to within less than two miles of Loch Carroy. These two large subdivisions are again cut up by Loch Bay and Loch Poltiel, each of which is near two miles in length, and by so many creeks and inlets as would be te- dious to enumerate. Of the two larger divisions, the western one is known as Duirinish proper, while the northern portion of the east one is called Vatemisk or Waternish^ and forms a separate parish quoad aacra^ being one of the recent Parliamentary erections* Mountains^ <$-c.— -The only mountains in the parish deserving the name, are two which are situated in the western peninsula, and known to the country people as the Greater and Lesser Helvel (probably a corruption of sealbh mheall^ the charmed or fortunate hill ; and evidently of the same derivation with Helvellyn io Wales.) These rise each to the height of 1700 feet, and are re- markable for the verdure of their surfiice, and the regularity of their slope, while their summits are perfectly level. This last peculiarity has procured for them, especially among sailors, the name of Macleod's Tables; and I believe that they arc more 324 INVERNESS-SHIRE. completely tabular in their forms than any other mountains of equal size in Scotland. From the Larger Helvel, a range of elevated hilly ground extends to the north, and terminates in Dunvegan or Galtrigil Head, a singularly bold and precipitous headland, which is upwards of 300 feet in perpendicular height ; while, from the Lesser Helvcl, a similar range strikes off to the south, ending in the Points of Idrigil and Waterstein, the cliffs of the former of which rise abruptly from the sea to the height of 400 feet ; those of the latter to near 600. With the exception of the hiBadland of Tallisker in the neighbouring parish of Bra- cadale, these two are by far the highest and grandest in the coun- try. A few hundred yards from the Point of Idrigil are ta be seen three very remarkable basaltic pillars, rising perpendicularly out of the sea ; the highest of which is about 200 feet in height, the other two about 100. These pillars are generally known as Macleod's Maidens ; but the country people designate them as a mother and her two daughters, calling the matron Nic Cleosgeir Mhor. There was at one time a fourth pillar, but k yielded to the action of the storms and waves, and has now disappeared in the deep. They certainly present at a distance no indistinct re- semblance to gigantic females clad in cloaks and hoods, while the superior size of one of them entitles her at least to the honour of being thought the eldest. Sir Walter Scott compares them to the Norwegian Riders of the storm, or chusers of the slain ; and the tradition which says that the mother is constantly engaged in weaving a web of cloth which one of the daughters is occupied in fulling or thickening, is probably of Scandinavian origin. I have not learned what is the office of the third, nor, with the ex- ception of the above, could I gather any legend connected with them. There are two other scries of hills in the parish ; but as they neither rise to any considerable height, nor have anything pecu- liar in their formation, they do not merit a particular description. The surface of the ground is generally sloping, and the few tracts of level land which are to be met with consist almost wholly of deep peat moss. There is one valley, called Glendale, about two miles in length, which stretches from the head of Loch Poltiel in a southerly di- rection, until it reaches near the base of the Smaller Helvel. Its breadth is from half a mile to three-quarters of a mile ; its sides sloping gradually, and covered with very rich pasture. It is di- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINIfJH. 325 vided by a considerable stream, here called the Amhainn Mhor^ the Large River ; a title which, however, it scarcely deserves to enjoy. There are neither streams nor valleys in any other por- tion of the parish worthy of mention. Cavesy 8^c. — There are some caves, and an immense number of caverns and hollows in the rocks along the coast, formed evidently by the action of the waves on the barrier which opposed their progress. Indeed, the coast for several miles presents the ap- pearance of an almost endless variety of Gothic arches, some of them only a few feet in height, others rising as high as fifty or sixty feet ; some regular and symmetrical, according to the strictest rules of art ; while others look as if the builder in constructing them had taxed his powers to heap together all that was grotesque and incongruous. Some of these caves are above tide-mark, but into many of them the sea rushes with a deep and hollow murmur, which is most solemn and awe-inspiring. One of them, called \Jamh a Choinnleir^ or the Cave of the Candlestick, possibly be- cause on account of its darkness, it requires to be entered with a candle, is near 100 feet in length, about 50 feet in height, and ' presents a scene of gloomy grandeur well worth[the visiting. An- other which I examined is 120 feet in length, 40 feet in height, and about 10 in breadth. A third, called Idrigil Cave, which is but small in comparison with those now mentioned, has yet a me- lancholy interest attached to it, as having been for some time one of the many dismal prisons in which the unfortunate and ill-used Lady Grange was confined. It is now frequently resorted to as a dwelling by the fishermen who follow their trade on the coast. They here hang up their nets to dry, cure their fish, cook their victuals, and sleep soundly on the dry sand with which part of the cave is strewn. It is somewhat singular regarding these caves, that while there is water oozing through most of them, there is no stalactitic for- mation, no calcareous accretion of any kind to be found in them. The basaltic rock appears black and bare in all of them. Coast. — The coast, owing to the numerous arms of the sea, al- ready adverted to, is no less than 70 miles in extent. It presents many headlands of stupendous height, and fqrming scenes of singular wildness and magnificence. Within the lochs, however, the ground shelves down with a moderate declivity, and afibrds a great variety of commodious landing-places. Lochs Dunvegan and Grieshernish form safe roadsteads for vessels of the largest 326 INVERNESS-SHIRE. size, from whatever quarter the wind may blow, and Loch Bay, Loch Poltiel, and Loch Carroy, though more exposed, afford good anchorage in ordinary weather. A small branch of Ix)ch Carroy, called Pol Roag, forms an anchorage as safe as can be imagined ; but, owing to the narrowness of the entrance, it is adapted to small •craft only. The high water line is almost everywhere composed of a rocky ledge, but between this and low water-mark, a beach is found, ge- nerally consisting of gravel and large stones, sometimes of sand, and in a few instances of mud. Islands. — There is a number of small islands belonging to the parish, but none of tbem is inhabited except one, called £ilean Isa, ^^ the island of Jesus," which, is only a few miles in circumfe- rence ; yet, from its fertility, supports fourteen or fifteen families in considerable comfort. Meteorology. — It is well known that along all the Western Isles a great quantity of rain falls annually. Skye, owing to local causes, the height of its mountains and headlands, receives more than its due proportion of this quantity. The island of Uist, though lying further west, yet being much lower, enjoys a comparatively dry climate, especially as regards the partial and generally heavy showers of summer. Clouds loaded with the vapours of the At- lantic pass over it unbroken ; but, when dashed against the lofty hills of Skye, discharge their contents in torrents. The winters are very boisterous, but far from being cold. In this parish snow seldom lies above a few days, except on the top of the Helvels, and very little ice is formed. Climate. — The climate, though moist, is far from being un- healthy. On the contrary, it is highly salubrious. While so much rain falls, there are no stagnant pools or marshes to retain or corrupt it, and the vicinity of the sea tends to preserve an equa- ble temperature, which is highly conducive to health. Some fatal diseases, frequent in other places, are unknown or nearly so here ; among which may be mentioned that fatal scourge of Britain ge- nerally, consumption. The most prevalent complaints are, dys- pepsia, dysentery, slow fevers, and cutaneous diseases, which are almost entirely confined to the humbler classes, and arise from lowness of diet, and want of attention to cleanliness. There is one very loathsome disease, commonly called the sevens or sibbens^ which is very prevalent here ; but whether it be indigenous or im« ported, I have not been able to learn. ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 327 It is worthy of mention, that, while vaccination is generally ne- glected, those of the people who remain at home, with few excep- tions, escape the ravages of small-pox ; but those who go to the south or low country are almost universally attacked by it, and many of them fall victims to it. Geology and Mineralogy. — The geology of the parish is remark- ably uniform, being almost entirely of the trap formation. Hori- zontal beds of amorphous basalt and trap tuff are surmounted by columnar basalt, the angles of which are, however, seldom regu- lar or well defined. It may be said to show only an incipient ten- dency to crystallization. These beds are very frequently intersect- ed by veins or dikes of basalt, harder, darker, and more splintery than that of which the columns are composed. Minerals. — The simple minerals imbedded are zeolites of every variety and-in great abundance; steatite likewise abundant, espe- cially about Dunvegan ; augite and olivine more rarely. Beds of limestone occur in two localities, Xst^ at Waterstein (or Vaterstein,) in a very remarkable situation, — the immensely high cliffs already noticed, overhanging the sea ; and 2(/, more exten- sively at Loch Bay, in the district of Vatemish. In this latter lo- cality, the limestone contains numerous fossil shells, and in some instances is entirely composed of them. They seem all to belong to a comparatively recent era, — a fact which might be easily as- certained by a skilful geologist, as they are very Uttle changed from their original state. One of these beds of shelly limestone lies under an immense cliff of basalt, which is near 200 feet in height. Veins of sandstone occur at Loch Bay, along with the limestone, and both here and at Vaterstein seams of coal are to be met with. The sandstone is very soft and friable, consequent- ly utterly unfit far the purposes of building. The coal, which is hard and brittle, resembling cannel-coal, though scarcely so lus- trous, is to be found in seams of only a few inches in thickness. Repeated attempts have been made to discover a workable seam ; but they failed ; and it is evident, from the geological formation of the surrounding district, that all such attempts must end in disap- pointment. Soils. — The soils are generally peat moss, or a mixture of peat moss and decomposed trap. There are a few tracts of clayey soil to be met with, and still fewer of gravelly ; but no instance of sandy soil occurs. Zoology and Botany. — Very liitlp can be said on these heads* 328 INVERNESS-SHIRE. The quadrupeds common on tlie mainland of Scotland, are all to be found here, except the hare, mole, and polecat, which are not to be met with in Skve. Hares have been introduced once or twice; but they very speedily disappeared, whether owing to the jealousy of those who feed them, but have not the privilege of shooting them, or to the unsheltered nature of the country, I have not the means of ascertaining. The other two species of animals have, I believe, been never seen in the island, — a fact which Ihe inhabitants have no cause to regret. Of fishes, the herring is undoubtedly the most important in an economical point of view, next to which come the cod and ling, large quantities of which are annually caught along the shores, — quantities capable of very considerable increase, were the inhabit* ants active or enterprising fishers. Turbot, mackerel, skate, had- dock, and flounder, are likewise to be met with, but not in large numbers. Shell-fish is very abundant whenever the beach is smooth, and is much prized by the poorest of the people, to many of whom it affords sustenance in the latter end of summer, when, generally, every other provision fails. It is worthy of remark regarding the herring, that they are found of very different qualities in the different lochs that indent the parish, and that they are almost always found of the same quality and appearance in the same loch. This would seem to warrant the belief, that herrings, like salmon, have peculiar localities to which they regularly resort. Botany. — The botany of the parish is, like its geology, very uniform, and consequently uninteresting. No rare plant has been discovered in it except the Mimulus luteuf, an American plant, which is to be found in a ditch close by the inn at Dunvegan ; and it is supposed, though there is no certain proof of this, that it is not indigenous to Duirinish, but has been thrown out of some garden into its present situation. There is one culinary vegetable — the cabbage, which thrives better in this parish, I believe, than anywhere else in Scotland. The Glendale Cabbage is known and sought after not only through- . out all Skye, but likewise in many places on the mainland ; and its immense size, combined with its delicacy of flavour, entitles it to the pre-eminence which it has attained. The seed is said to have been obtained from a foreign vessel which was wrecked at the foot of Glendale many years ago. Whether it be a distinct species I am not able to determine. ISLAND OF 8KYE — DUIRINISH. 329 The district is entirely destitute of natural wood, — some scraggy hazel and stunted birch bushes to be met with in a few localities^ not deserving the name. It is evident from the remains of trees found in the peat mosses, that the country was not always equally bare ; but as these remains are neither very numerous nor of a large size, it may be concluded that it has not been welUwooded for many ages back. Until about sixty years ago, there seem to have been no attempts made by art to remedy the deficiency of nature. Butaboutthat time, General Macleod of Macleod commenced plant- ing around his castle of Dunvegan ; and his example has been fol* lowed by his two successors, so that now there is an extensive and thriving plantation, where formerly all was bleak and bare. The late Mr Macdonald of Lynedale, about fifty years ago, likewise planted to some extent around his own dwelling, where now trees of some size are to be seen. Mr Macleod of Orbost, and Mr Gumming of Grieshernish have followed the example set to them. Their houses will soon be completely sheltered, as they are already or- namented by wood of their own rearing. But, with these excep- tions, nothing has been done to redeem the district from its na- turally naked character. The larch is decidedly the most congenial tree to the soil and climate of this place ; but a great variety of other trees, such as oak, ash, plane, beech, alder, and birch, are found to thrive pretty well, notwithstanding the violence of the sea«blast to which they are constantly exposed. Scotch fir has not succeeded well, though tried more than once. 11. — Civil History. Tradition speaks of some sanguinary battles fought between the Macleods and the Clann Raonnuill or Macdonalds of Uist, who made repeated attempts either to possess themselves of the country, or at least to plunder and ravage it. The fiercest and bloodiest of these battles was fought at a place called Ardmore, in the district of Yaternish, on the beach below the old church of Trumpan. Many of the Macleods were assembled in this church, when the enemy came suddenly upon them, surrounded the building, set fire to it, and destroyed all the worshippers ; one woman alone excepted, who made her escape during the confu- sion of the fray. This barbarous and sacrilegious work, however, did not pass unrevenged. The inhabitants of other parU of the country had observed the boats of their foe. The beacon-lights and Crot8 Tara (fiery-ctoaa^ «oou\JitQ\^^^.\»^^^'t\s^s®i^^^^ff^^^ 1NV£RN£88. ^ ^ 330 INVERNESS-SHlRE. accustomed to war, and delighted in it. The smoke and flames of their church, which were visible from many parts of the parish, caused them to redouble their speed ; and before the Macdonalds had regained their vessels, they were beset by the infuriated Macleods, who took full revenge for the slaughter of their friends. The booty was recovered, and the greater number of the Mac- donalds left dead on the shore. The burial given by the Mac- leods to those of their enemies who fell on this occasion, was dif- ferent from that which the Highlanders generally gave to brave opponents. The bodies, it is said, were ranged in a line by the side of a stone wall which stood near the scene of combat, and the wall thrown down upon them. Hence the battle is still known as Blar Milkadh Gdraidh^ (t. e.) the battle of the destruction of the dike. Whether this be or be not a correct account of the origin of the name, it is very certain that a deadly conflict did take place on the spot pointed out as the battle-field of MiUeadli Gdraidh ; for large quantities of human bones are still to be seen there, on turning over some loose stones by which the ground is covered. The smothering of the Macdonalds by the Macleods in the Cave of Eigg, while a barbarous, was not an inappropriate retaliation for the work at Waternish. There are indistinct accounts preserved of another battle fought by these hostile clans, known as Bldr Bhattemishf- the battle of Vaternish. There the Macleods lost many men, and were on the point of being completely discomfited, when the celebrated Fairy Flag or enchanted banner of their chief was unfurled, which immediately (this being one of its three miraculous pro- perties) multiplied the number of the Macleods threefold, or rather made their enemies believe that they were so multiplied. The Macdonalds, seeing themselves beset by so large and unlooked for a host, were seized with a sudden panic, sought safety in flight, and were completely routed. So says tradition ; and there are «ome who still give implicit credence to its reports, however absurd they be. Family of MacUod. — The Macleods obtained peaceable pos- session of this parish in the tenth century, through the marriage of the first Tormoid, or Norman of the name, with the only daugh- ter of MacRailt, the original possessor of the soil ; and, despite the repeated attempts which have been made by their enemies to deprive them of it, and of the changes which time usually produces in families, they still retain possession of all of it, except what has ISLAND OF SKYE DUIRINISH. 331 been voluntarily alienated. The chief historical interest of the parish may be said, indeed, to rest on the fact, that in it is situated the principal stronghold and residence of this very ancient family ; and it may not be foreign to such an account as the present, to say a few words regarding their early history. In a statement, professing to be drawn from the chronicles of Iceland, it is said, that several Norwegian chiefs, tired of the ty- ranny of Harold Har6nger their king, abandoned his dominions, and betook themselves to the sea in quest of a habitation where they might enjoy liberty. They landed on the Pharo Islands, which they found uninhabited, and of which they took immediate possession. After this they subdued Orkney and Shetland, the Isle of Man, and all the Hebrides, as well as several tracts on the mainland, from Caithness to the Mull of Cantyre. These scat- tered possessions were formed into two principalities, or rather a kingdom, and an earldom, — the seat of the former being in the Isle of Man, — that of the latter in Orkney. Both the King of Man and the Earl of Orkney exercised for a time an independent sway ; but they were soon found out by their old master, who com« pelled them again to acknowledge his supremacy, — at least nomi- nally. These islands then continued attached to the Crown of Norway until the battle of Largs in 1261, when Magnus, son of King Haco, surrendered them to Scotland; guaranteeing, how- ever, to the Norwegian settlers all the rights and privileges which they formerly possessed. The first Earl of Orkney was Torf-Einar, son of Rognvallar Earl of Maeria, in Norway, and brother to the famous Rolf- Gaunger, or Rollo the Dane, the founder of the Duchy of Nor- mandv. One of his descendants. Thorfinn, left a numerous fa- mily of sons, who quarrelled about the paternal inheritance, ap- pealed to arms, and deluged the island with blood. Liot or Leod (as it is now written by us), one of the number, apparently more peaceably disposed than his brothers, left the scene of contest, and settled himself in the Island of Lewis, — the Gaelic name of which, Leodhas^ signifies the habitation of Leod. He was the common ancestor of the numerous and powerful clan of Macleod, which became divided into two main braixches, springing respectively from his sons, Tormoid, and Torgil or Torquil. From Tormoid is de- scended the chief of the Macleods of Skye, sometimes styled of Harris, of Dunvegan, of Macleod* From Torquil are descended the Macleods of Lewis, now represented, though not in the direct 332 INVERNESS-SHIRE. male line, which has lon^ ago become extinct, by Macleod of Raasay. They at one time had extensive possessions and sway ; but forfeited the greater portion of their lands in the reign of James VI. The Macleods of Dunvegan have been more fortunate, and have retained, as already observed, through the lapse of many ages, and through various vicissitudes of fortune, all their original possessions, except what they voluntarily disposed of. There is a striking proof of the complete subjugation of the Island of Skye to the Norwegian invaders in the fact, that very many of the proper names still used in it are traceable to a Norse origin. The inhabitants have Tormoid, Harold, Olaus, and Mag- nus, — all Norwegian names, still common among them. But it is much more remarkable than this, that nearly every farm, every hill, every stream, has a Norwegian appellation, while, at the same time, not the remotest trace of Norse can be discovered in any part of the language of the country, except the proper names. The Gaelic spoken throughout the island is remarkably pure, and free of foreign admixture. It is worthy of observation at the same time, that, while in this country, where the Celts were subdued, but from which they were never expelled, they adopted foreign names to designate almost all the places; in the south again, from which they migrated, or were expelled ages ago, where now not a word of their language is spoken, yet places are almost universally designated by names which they have left behind them, that is, by Celtic names. This, however, is not the place where to follow out the conclusions which might be drawn from such facts. The descendants of Leod still retain their Scandinavian names ; but, in every other respect, they have long ago conformed to the habits of the Celtic tribes among which they dwelt, especially in regard to the clan or patriarchal system of government which pre- vailed among the Scotch and Irish Celts, but was utterly unknown among the branches of the great Gothic family. Notwithstanding that the Macleods have had their principal residence in this parish for many centuries, none of the heads of the family have been interred in it, (their burial-place being at Rodil, in Harris), except the late chief, who ordered his remains to be buried on his own estate. There is now a plain but taste- ful monument erected over them by his successor, in the church- yard of Duirinish. In the same burying-place, there is an obelisk erected by the noted Simon Lord Lovat on the grave of his father, who died at ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 333 Dunvegan, and was a near relation of the Macleod family. It is now, however, considerably decayed, and threatens soon to crum- ble into ruins except it be repaired. Lady Granffe. — There are the ruins of two religious houses to be seen in the parish,— one in the valley of Glendale, the other at Trumpan, in the district of Vatemish. The history of both seems to be completely lost In the latter place is interred the ill' fated Lady Grange, whose singular history accords betted with the dark ages of barbarism than with the general character of the times in which she lived and died. Some very romantic and fabulous accounts have been given of this lady's sufferings ; but the following particulars have been stated to us on authority which deserves regard. She was the daughter of Cheisly of Dairy, a man of violent passions, whose temper she unfortunately for herself inherited. She became the wife of Mr Erskine of Grange, who was made a Lord of Session, in 1707, by the title of Lord Grange, and was Lord Justice- Clerk during the latter years of Queen Anne's reign. He was brother to the Earl of Mar, who headed the ill-conducted Rebellion of 1715 against the House of Hanover; and though he did not openly join the rebels, yet he aided them with his counsel and wealth. His house was a frequent rendezvous to the disaffected gentry and nobility; and his wife,. who was not privy to the con- spiracy, soon became suspicious of such frequent and numerous meetings under her roof. With the curiosity natural to her sex, she resolved to possess herself of the secret of their proceedings, and accomplished her object by hiding herself under a sofa during one of the conferences. She was warmly attached to the reign- ing family. Her love to Lord Grange, who treated her with much harshness and unkindness, was by no means deep or cordial. A quarrel — no rare occurrence — took place between them, when she threatened to revenge herself by disclosing his traitorous purposes to the Government under which he lived. He knew her violence and her resolution too well to doubt of her fulfilling her pro- mise ; and seeing that his own safety and that of all his accom- plices were at stake, he instantly called a meeting of them, in or- der to devise a remedy against the danger which surrounded them. It was agreed at this confei-ence that she should immediately be locked up ; that a report of her death should be spread abroad ; and that the Lairds of Macleod of Dunvegan, and Macdonald of Sleat, whose territories were very remote, should remove her, in 334 INVEIINESS-SUIUE. convenient time, to some secluded spot on tlieir estates, where slic might be no more heard of. This barbarous plan was accordingly acted upon. News of her death were spread abroad; a mock funeral took place; while shortly afterwards she was forced away from her home and family, and, by devious routes, carried as far as Skye. She manifested her characteristic spirit in resisting those who were sent to carry her oiT; and so violent was the struggle, that two of her teeth were knocked out before she was overpowered. But she was over- powered, and so dexterously was her abduction managed, that her friends knew nothing of her fate for several years, but believed that she was in reality dead. She was at first confined in the hut of some poor retainer of Macleod in Skye. When afraid that her residence might possibly become known, he sent her to Uist among Macdonald's followers. From thence she was banished to the remote island of St Kilda, where she remained for seven years. She was again taken back to Uist, and thence to Skye. While here a second time, she fell on a very ingenious expedient for com- municating with her friends. The poor people among whom she lived were accustomed to manufacture their wool into yarn, which they annually sent in large clues to the Inverness market, for sale. Lady Grange acquired the art of spinning, and, having possessed herself of writing materials, she wrote a letter to one of her relatives, which she secretly enclosed in a clue of her own thread that was sent to the market along with others. The purchaser of the yam forwarded the letter to its destination. Her friends were filled with indignation, and instantly applied to the Govern* ment for the liberation of the unfortunate lady from her captivity. The Government sent a sloop of war to the coast of Skye, in or- der to make search for her ; but her gaolers were far too well ac- quainted with the many fastnesses and hiding-places of the coun-* try to allow her to be thus taken. They immured her for some time in the cave of Idrigil already noticed, as being situated on the west of this parish. After this she was transferred to Uist, the person who had the management of the boat having beside him a rope, with a running noose at one end, and a heavy stone at the other, intending, according to his orders, to fix the noose round the prisoner's neck, and to consign her immediately to the deep, should the sloop of war come in sight during the passage. The passage was accomplished without such a tragical catastrophe as was contemplated. Lady Grange was confined for some time ISLAND OF 8KYE — DUIRINISH. 335 longer in Uist, and again brought back to the district of Water* nish, in this parish, where she ended her days. Her persecutors showed throughout the utmost anxiety to con- ceal her place of residence, knowing well the vengeance that would fall upon them if this were discovered. They resolved, that, if possible, even the grave should not bear witness against them ; for after her death they filled a coffin with sods, and, with much form, interred it in (he church-yard of Duirinish, having invited many people to the funeral of the strange lady, while, meantime, her remains were secretly deposited in the church-yard of Trumpan, at Waternish. There are few persons who have had so many funerals as Lady Grange ; and few, also, who have had more cause to long for a real one, for that place ^^ where the wicked cease to trouble, and the weary are at rest." On the recital of this story, it is impossible to avoid a feeling of surprise, that such an outrageous act of injustice and oppres- sion as that above detailed should have been allowed, and that within less than a century back, to escape unpunished by the Government of Great Britain. Antiquiiies. — First among the antiquities are to be noticed Duns or forts, of which there is a large number throughout the parish ; no fewer than fifteen ; all of them contiguous to the sea, and evidently at one time of very great strength. 'J'hey are generally of a circular shape, built of dry stone without lime or mortar ; frequently of such large blocks as would apparently re- quire the aid of powerful mechanical engines to raise them to the height at which they are found. Some of these forts had a wind- ing stair in the middle of the wall, ascending to the top of the building, and secret cells near the base. Others again seem to have contained no hiding-place, except recesses in the wall might be called so. The diameter of the largest which I have examined is about 40 feet ; the thickness of the wall 12 feet How these buildings were roofed, it is not easy to understand ; as it is gene« rally asserted that no wood was used for the purpose. There are also several tumuli or barrows to be met with through- out the parish, the two most remarkable of which are near the head of Loch Carroy. These, like the forts, are built on ele« vated ground, but are merely piles of loose stones. The two ad- verted to are known by the name of the Barpunan. None of them has been opened up, ' but if opened up, they would, like others, be probably found to contain, in vaulted chambers, urns. 336 INVERNESS-SHIRE. in which were deposited the ashes of once renowned, but now forgotten heroes. Subterranean dwellings, or earth-houses, of considerable size, ure to be met with in the parish. These seem evidently to have been intended for hiding-places in times of danger. There is one of them situated on the farm of Vatten, having its entrance in the face of a very precipitous bank, overhanging a deep ravine. This door, or more appropriately fox-hole, is completely covered over with heather and moss, so that its existence would never be suspected even after a minute examination of the bank. A passage about three feet in height, and near the same breadth, roofed by stones laid on as lintels, leads inwards to the distance of sixty or seventy feet, when it opens into what appears to have been a cen- tral room of considerable extent, arched over with stone, and from four to five feet in height Off this room, several narrow galleries branch off in various directions, but to what extent has never been ascertained, as it is difficult and even dangerous to explore them until they be opened from above, and free air admitted into them. How these dwellings were ventilated, so as to be fit for the habi- tation of human beings, it is not easy now to discover, (as for light they seem to have been utterly destitute of it,) but in all probabi- lity the ingenuity of our rude ancestors discovered expedients, more simple, if not more effective, than those boasted of by our scientific age. There is another interesting specimen of these earth-houses on the farm of Clagan ; but it is neither so extensive nor so well constructed as that already adverted to. The only relics of antiquity excavated in the parish are some urns, apparently of Celtic manufacture, which were dug up about four years ago, in an old burial-place near the site of the parish church. These are composed of a very coarse reddish clay ; but have several rude ornaments upon them, or rather are notched and scolloped throughout, and are much more elegant in shape than those generally known as Celtic urns, frequently are. One of them is in the possession of Macleod of Macleod. . Another is believed to be in the Glasgow Hunterian Museum. All the rest were broken to pieces through the carelessness of the excavator, who was more anxious to fit the ground for bearing a crop of po- tatoes, than to bring to light any relics of antiquity which it con- tained. The Castle of Dunvegan is a very interesting monument of by- gone ages. The oldest part of it is said to have been built in the ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 337 ninth century. Another portion, consisting of a very high tower, was added by Alastair Crotach, or the Humphbacked, 400 years later. These two towers were conjoined, by means of a long low edifice, erected by Rory Mor, who was knighted in the days of James VI. Various additions have been made to it since, and the whole now forms a large mass of gray building, which, espe- cially at a distance, presents a very imposing appearance. It is situated on a precipitous rock, washed on one side by the sea ; on another, by a stream of some size ; on a third, it is guarded by what was at one time a moat, consisting of a natural hollow between the castle rock and another steep rock at some yards' distance ; on the fourth, the base is easily accessible, but owing to the height of the rock, and to its being surmounted everywhere by a wall with deep embrasures, even here it would be difficult to storm it, if at all well garrisoned. The entrance was of old from the sea side, by a very long, steep, and narrow stair ; but a new approach has been of late formed by throwing a bridge over the chasm already noticed, which now renders it of easy access. There is a small but very convenient harbour right before it, and a spring of exceU lent water rising on the top of the rock which forms the court- yard. These were the two circumstances which probably went farthest to determine the site of this fortalice when its foundation was laid.* Among the ancient relics preserved in the castle, the ** Fairy flag," which, according to tradition, is the palladium of the Mac- leod family, the hinge on which their fortune turns, claims the first notice. This once celebrated banner, partly owing to the- inroads of moths, and partly to the still more destructive inroads of curious visitors, many of whom carried off portions of it, is now dwindled down to very small dimensions. The fabric is of strong silk of a yellow colour. It is said to have been taken as a prize by one of the Macleods from a Saracen chief during the Crusades, and to possess three miraculous properties, — first, when displayed in bat* tie, to multiply the number of the Macleods threefold ; second, when spread on the nuptial bed, to make it productive ; and third, * Sir Walter Scott, iii his Diary of 1814, gives a minute aoeount of the Castle of Dunvegan, which, notwithstanding his unrivalled power, and generally minute accu- racy in the description of old towers and castles, is more picturesque than correct ; and in describing the scene to be witnessed from the window of the ^* haunted chamber,** he allows his imagination to deceive him completely, when he states that ** Macleod*s Maidens,** formed an interesting part of it. These pillars are not visible firom any point within four miles of the castle. *^ Aliquando dormitat bonus Homerus.** 338 INVERNESS-SHIRE. to bring shoals of herring into Dunvegan loch. According to the original instructions given regarding the flag, it was to be pub- licly displayed only on three occasions: 1. when the clan was in imminent peril of being overthrown in battle, on which occasion the unfurling of it would turn the tide of victory completely in their favour ; 2. when the sole heir and hope of the family was near death, and then it would restore him to health ; and 3. when, through some cause not explained, the whole race of Macleod are to be on the verge of utter extinction, in which emergency the flag will save them ; but flag and flag-bearer are to be swept away by a whirlwind, and never more to be seen on earth. Laying fiction aside, the ^' Fairy flag," according to the most probable accounts, is a consecrated banner which once belonged to some order of the Knights Templars, and is undoubtedly of very high antiquity. There is also in the castle a very ancient cup or chalice, gene^ rally known by the name of Nidi Glundubh^ %. e. ^^ Niel of the Black Knees," and said to have been taken by one of the Mac- leods along with other spoils, from an Irish chief, called Nial Glundubh many centuries ago. This cup is hollowed out of a so- lid block of very dark wood, stands on four silver legs, has a rim of silver fibout two inches in depth around the lips, and is orna- mented by several vertical stripes of silver, raised considerably, and wrought with great elegance, having numerous sockets in them for the reception of precious stones, a few of which still re- main.* Rory Mar's Horn. — A drinking cup, of much larger dimen- sions than that now adverted to, ought not to be passed over in silence, especially as it has found a place in one of the Bacchana- lian songs of Burns, and is briefly described by Sir Walter Scott. This is a very large horn, which was probably at one time worn by a long-horned kyloe ox, and is destitute of any ornament ex- * The description given of this chalice by Sir Walter Scott, in his Notes to the Lord of the Isles, and the drawing by Daniell, published in some of the miscel- lanies of the day, must have made its form and appearance familiar to many readers ; but we may here give the inscription which it bears, copied from Sir Walter's version • of it. ** Ufo Johannis Mich magni principis dc H.U. Manas Vich Siabia Magry- neil et sperat Domino Jhesu dari clementiam iilorum opera. Fecit anno Domini, 993, Onili Oimi.** The inscription is in Saxon black letter, and the numerals 93 are perfectly distinct ; but it is very difficult, indeed, to discover the preceding 9. and from the facts that the Arabic numerals were not at all known in Europe till 991 , very little used in Western Europe for a couple of centuries after this, and very rarely, if ever, used in the midst of Latin inscriptions in the middle ages, it must be doubtful whether the inscription should not be referred to a. later period than the tenth century. ISLAND OF SKYE — ^DUIKINISH. 339 ccpt a broad rim of silver, chased and carved, around the edge. It is said to have been the favourite drinking cup of Ritari Mar^ u e. ^' Big Roderick/' one of the Macleods already referred to : but from its containing three ordinary bottles, that is upwards of five English pints, it is probable that he did not often empty it The quaffing off its contents in claret is one of the ceremonies regu- larly gone through at the inauguration of the chief of Macleod. It is believed, however, that in modern days a piece of cork is on these occasions fixed in the horn, much nearer the top than the bottom. Bagpipe. — It is well known that the great bag-pipe, the in- strument on which the national music of Scotland was chiefly played for so long a time, and which has still so striking an effect in rousing the martial spirit of the Highlanders, was cul- tivated with greater success by the Macrimmons, the hereditary pipers of the Macleods, than by any others in the Highlands. The name of Macrimmon, whether on fanciful or on conclusive ground we pretend not to say, has been derived from the fact of the first musician who bore the name having studied his profes- sion at Cremona in Italy. Certain it is that, what rarely happens, high musical talent as well as high moral principle and personal bravery, descended from father to son during many generations in the family of the Macrimmons. They became so celebrated that pupils were sent to them from all quarters of the Highlands, and one of the best certificates that a piper could possess was his hav- ing studied under the Macrimmons. Findinc]^ the number of pu- pils daily increasing, they at length opened a regular school or college for pipe music on the farm of Boreraig, opposite to Dun- vegan Castle, but separated from it by Loch Follart. Here, so many years of study were prescribed, regular lessons were given out, certain periods for receiving the instructions of the mas- ter were fixed. The whole tuition was carried on as syste- matically as in any of our modern academies ; and the names of some of the caves and knolls in the vicinity still point out the spots where the scholars used to practise, respectively on the chanter, the small pipe, and the Piob mfiaTf or large bagpipe, before exhibiting in presence of the master. Macleod endowed this school by granting the farm of Boreraig to it, and it is no longer ago than seventy years since the endowment was withdrawn. It was owing to the following cause : The farm had been originally given only during the pleasure of the proprietor. For many ages 340 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the grant was undisturbed : but when the value of land had risen to six or seven times what it was when the school was founded, Macleod very reasonably proposed to resume one-half of the farm, offering at the same time to Macrimmon, a free lease of the other half in perpetuum ; but Macrimmon, indignant that his emoluments should be curtailed, resigned the whole farm, and broke up his establishment, which has never been restored. The Macrimmons were well educated 9 intermarried with highly respectable families, and were universally regarded as vastly supe- rior to the common class of the country people. A son of the last family piper holds the rank of captain in the British army, and is said to inherit the musical talents of his race. There are a few of them still residing in this parish, but they are born of what was reckoned a very low marriage for Macrimmon, and they do not possess either the talents or respectability of their progenitors. A Macrimmon still acts as piper to Macleod^ but he is not descend- ed of the Boreraig Macrimmons, who appear to have renounced their profession with their endowment. We know not whether there were establishments similar to that of Boreraig in other parts of the Highlands ; but it certainly is to bo regretted that it was dissolved, and also that we have not mi- nuter information as to the mode of training pursued by those who were universally acknowledged to be the first masters of bagpipe music. Eminent Persons. — Among the distinguished persons who were born in the parish, may be noticed Mary Madeod,.or ^^ Mairi Nigh inn Alastair Ruaidh," t. e. Mary, the daughter of red-haired Alexander, who lived at Dunvegan about 200 yeai*s ago, and was a near relative of the Chief of Macleod. Her fame is confined by the narrow bounds of the Gaelic language ; but wherever it is . known she is known, and admired as a poetess of the first order that has appeared in the Highlands for many ages back. Her concep- tions are remarkably vivid, and display much poetic fire ; her lan- guage is certainly very rich and varied ; and some of her composi- tions present instances, both of melting pathos and of rousing en- ergy, which might well bear comparison with many of the eulo« gized productions of modern days. She had a sister named Jean, who also composed songs and lyrics ; but the higher fame of Mary has caused Jean to be com- paratively forgotten. Many individuals born in this parish have distinguished them- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 341 selves both Id camp and council, especially in the former. Seve- ral might be named, of whom some are still living, who, born and reared in thatched cottages, have attained the rank of generals, and the dignity of knighthood ; and have held highly responsible offices under the Government of the country ; but we consider it foreign to the object of such an account as this to particularize them all. Land'Otoners. — Of the land-owners of the parish, Macleod of Macleod, who possesses about one-half of ther parish, is 6rst to be mentioned. Major Macdonald of Waternish ranks next to him in extent of territory. Mr Macleod of Orbost ; Mr Macleod of St Kilda ; Mr Maclennan of Lyndale ; Mr Gumming of Griesher- nish ; Mrs Murray of Cushledder ; Mr Nicolson of Husabost ; and Mr Macdonald of Skeabost, compose the remciinder. Nine in all. The only ^mansion-houses in the parish besides the Castle of Dunvegan, are those of Orbost, of Grieshernish, and of Waternish. Parochial Registers. — The parochial' registers have been very much neglected ; there being none extending farther than thirty years back ; and session-records, it may be mentioned, were not kept with any degree of fulness before the commencement of the year 1840. III. — Population. The number of the inhabitants of the parish was given in 181 1 at 3227; in 1821, at 4174; in 1831, at 4765; and now it is closely bordering on 5000. We do not here see any remarkable increase of population ; but the number bears a vast disproportion to the resources of the parish ; and is far greater than the soil can support This has been the case for many years back, — known and felt by every intelligent person connected with the country ; and thus it becomes interesting to inquire why such a state of things has been permitted by those who had it in their power to prevent it, and also how the popula- tion manage to subsist when the resources of the country are in- sufficient for them, and they have so little means of paying for imports from other countries. We answer the second question first, by stating that the people generally live on the poorest and scantiest fare, and many of thera for a part of the year are supported mainly by shell-fish ; that, by sending their families annually to the south to labour there, the parents are, to a certain extent, upheld; and that, when every other 342 INVERNESS-SHIRE. resource fails tbem, they live on their wealthier neighbours, some by begging, and some by stealing. As to the first question, the answering it will occupy some time, and in considering it, we should remember, both that population has, in all circumstances, a strong natural tendency to multiply it- self, and that among an uneducated people this tendency always increases in the direct ratio of their poverty. We see, then, that in this island strong checks were necessary to prevent an over- growth of population ; and we shall endeavour to state some of the causes which prevented and still prevent the application of these checks. In the olden time, the number of a chiefs followers constituted his wealth, his power, and his safeguard. He then, for the most obvious reasons, gave the produce of his lands to the support of his retainers, and thus the country was capable of supporting a larger number than it is now, when so much of its produce is given as rent ; and if scarcity were felt in these lawless days, a few forays or creaghs from some other district soon supplied it. After the abolition of the clan system, and when rents, whicii were at first very light, came to be exacted, the wars in which Britain was constantly engaged for such a series of years, afforded an outlet, to a considerable extent, to the superabundant popula- tion ; and many of those who did not avail themselves of this out- let emigrated to the North American colonies ; thus showing much more enterprise than is manifested by their descendants. Later still, the manufacture of sea-ware into kelp afforded abundant employment to all the islanders who were not engaged in the tillage of the soil, and amply rewarded their labour, so as to enable them to purchase such necessaries and comforts of life as they needed. During these times, then, the pressure of the population on the means of subsistence was but slightly and seldom felt, and consequently there was little cause to check its growth. Now, however, matters are completely changed. There is no recruit- ing for war. The kelp trade is completely at an end. The people do not emigrate. There are no public works where they may find employment. They raise but a very inadequate quantity of food, and they are, as the natural result, in great want and dis- tress. Yet there are reasons which still induce some persons ra- ther to encourage than to stop the increase of the inhabitants. We may first mention, as what in some instances, though unin- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 343 tentionally and indirectly, helps to aggravate the evil complained of, — the kindness of the proprietor of the soil. He sees his people increase too rapidly ; but they consider a separation from their native place the greatest of all earthly evils. While they can manage to procure a meal or two of potatoes in the day, they are contented, and implore permission to remain as they are. He can sympathize in their feelings of attachment to the place where they were born, and where their fathers are interred. He feels for them as his people, and, rather than inflict on them the misery of removal, he allows them to shift as they best may. But the selfishness both of tenants and proprietors does much more to augment the evil under consideration than the cause now referred to. Thus a tenant takes a &rm without sufficient capital to stock it, or to pay the rent. He has, however, a remedy at hand in letting portions of the farm as crofts to some of the poor people in the vicinity, who are always eager to get any piece of ground. These, for a time, pay part of his rent, perform much of his agri- cultural work, and yield him considerable profit. But frequently in the course of no long period, they also get into difficulties, when they betake themselves to their master's expedient of subletting. The half of the croft is given to the oldest son, who immediately marries ; a farther portion is perhaps given to some other relative. The crofts, or lots as they are here called, dwindle down into the most insignificant patches, incapable of yielding food even for a quarter of a year to the many families which occupy them. The wages earned by labour must then go to purchase food. The cow is sold to pay the rent, and the unfortunate crofter sinks into a state of the most abject poverty. Again, when land is purchased with the sole view of pecuniary gain, it is undoubtedly the purchaser's interest to subdivide it as minutely as possible, for it is well-known that when there is a re- dundant population, the smaller that the lots of land are the greater will be the number of competitors for them, and of course the more will the rent exceed the actual value. Such proprietors take care to give no leases to their letters. They keep them as tenants at will, and thus it is easy to eject them if they become unable to pay the rent, and just as easy to get others to occupy their place, to subject themselves to the same fleecing process. Sometimes the reduced letter, though deprived of his cow, is not driven away from the estate, but is sent to the sea shore, where he may get fish for his own support, and for payment to the landlord for his hut, and 344 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the liberty of cultivating a small patch of waste land. If these unhappy individuals, as very frequently happens, under the dread of starvation, forget the laws of God and man, so as to "put forth their hand to steal," their master knows perfectly that, like the fox, they will not plunder near their own den, — that they will go to a distance to forage; and he needs not fear that his sheep will be touched by them, while there are some belonging to any other person within reach of a long night's journey. Thus an avaricious proprietor may at any time increase his rent- al in this country, by the subdivision of his farms, and for some years he will succeed in exacting every penny of his rack-rent. Again, if he wish to sell his properly, the long rent-roll duly at< tested will enhance the value of it in the market. If he be de- sirous of borrowing money, through the same roll he may induce a money lender, ignorant of the actual state of matters, to advance on the security of the property a sum double its actual value. There are here strong temptations for hard-hearted avarice to deepen the evil under which the island already groans, to encou- rage the increase of the already teeming population, and there is an open door for cruelty on the one hand, and for fraud on the other ; but we are glad to say that there are few who have yielded to the wicked solicitation, — that the more enlightened of the land- owners and of the tacksmen of this parish are sincerely anxious to promote the comfort of their people. It must be evident, at the same time, to every thinking man, that, while some of the land-owners and tacksmen may be to blame for the present state of things, yet that the main cause of the evil is to be found in the ignorance of the people themselves. Were they enlightened, they would not submit to extortion or to want. They would seek in other quarters of the world the means of independent and comfortable subsistence. They might fare much better where they are. But generally they are unen- lightened — they are deplorably ignorant, and, being so, they are destitute of the true spirit of independence— of the proper ambi- tion to better their circumstances. They feel a blind, and, there- fore, a very powerful attachment to the rocks and glens amid which they were brought up-^an almost invincible aversion to abandon them. They are improvident as to their marriages, and also as to the husbanding of the slender resources which are within their reach. Many of them are utterly careless regarding the future. The immediate and most obvious remedy for the evils arising ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISTI. 345 from the superabundant |)opulation of the parish is confessedly the removing of numbers of the people, by emigration, to places where they may support themselves in comfort by the labour of their hands. This is a measure which is loudly called for by the circumstan- ces of the country,-^lemanded more loudly and imperiously each succeeding year, — and a measure which, if now neglected, will speedily force itself on the notice both of the land-owners, and the government of the kingdom, not only by the piteous wailing of want and of famine, — not only by the sad spectacle of a once mo- ral people becoming, through the hardening and animalizing in- fluence of grinding poverty, the reckless slaves of low passions, — but by the still more alarming, though not more woeful, spectacle of a loyal and peaceable people giving themselves up to robbery and rapine. The flocks of the large sheep-owners are annually thinned by those who feel the pinching of famine ; and to such an extent is this system carried now, that it has led to the proposal of establishing a rural police throughout the island, which is ex- pected to come into immediate operation ; a measure completely unprecedented in the history of the Highlands, We do not expect, of course, that the evil is to be completely cured by emigration : but if the population were once thinned by that means, education would go far to do the rest. And besides the improvuig effects of education on the character and habits of those who remain at home, it is well known to those who are acquainted with Skye, that the best educated among its common people generally, almost universally, have sought a foreign coun- try where to advance their fortunes; that very few of those who receive even the rudiments of a good education remain at home ; and were knowledge generally given them, there would be no call either for the Government or for the land-owners to interfere with them. Habits of the People. — The habits of the people are far from being cleanly. Shaving is only a weekly work, sometimes not so frequent ; water is but sparingly employed for the ablution of the person, while clothes are very rarely changed. The houses are wretchedly filthy, so much so, that it is cause of wonder that their occupiers enjoy such a measure of health as they do. These houses have but one door, opening at the end. Next to the door is the byre, where the cattle stand every night during the year, — the cows sometimes fas- tened by a straw rope to one of the raflers in the roof, while the INVERNESS. Z 346 INVERNESS-SHIRE. young animals go at large. The byre is cleaned only twice in the year, — at the beginning of winter, and at the end of spring, when the potatoes are planted ; and, previous to these respective periods, there are many feet of dung and straw in the dwelling. Over this height, however, it is necessary to climb in order to enter the kitchen, which is at the opposite end of the house, and separated from the byre only by a very thin partition of boards or wattles, that does not reach above half-way to the roof. There is seldom any other apartment than this, except it be a small space railed off where the potatoes and fish are stowed. The furniture is very scanty and rude. A couple of bedsteads, filled with straw or hea- ther or ferns, a few chairs, and a table, generally complete the list. Such of the family as cannot find room in the beds sleep on the floor, and a stone is always deemed a good substitute for a chair. Indeed, there are sonie houses where no chair is used, — stones, pieces of dried turf, and one or two small stools or settles consti- tuting the only seats. The mode in which these comfortless dwel- lings are built, is worthy of notice, as being very peculiar. The walls are uncommonly broad, in some instances six or even seven feet. Properly speaking, there are two walls, built at the distance of eighteen inches or two feet from each other. This vacant space is filled up with earth, and the whole covered over at the top with green sod. The rafters are rested on the inner edge of the inner wall, instead of being placed on the outer edge, as in other places, consequently there is a considerable breadth of the wall left com- pletely exposed, and the rain of course enters here, and continually deluges the house. But the people, while they are anxious to ex- clude the wind, seem to have no dread of damp. I have seen two sheep grazing abreast on the top of one of these walls, and they might easily give room to a third. Two men might walk round on some of them, without any danger of falling off. The fire is always placed on the middle of the floor, and the only outlet provided for the smoke, is a small circular aperture in the roof. There is seldom more than one window in a house. This is placed at the inner edge of the wall, where it gives least light; but very often, the hole where the window should be, is left open, except during a very strong wind, when it is stuffed up with some straw or rags of old clothes. Thus, owing to the exclusion of the light, and to the smoky atmosphere within the house, it is always enveloped in a twilight obscurity, which does not tend to the pro- motion of cleanliness or comfort. ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 34? The ordinary food of the peasantry is potatoes and fish, some- times potatoes and salt, and sometimes potatoes alone. Butcher- meat is almost unknown to them, and very little meal is used. Considering this wretchedly low diet on which they subsist, it is astonishing what work they perform, and what fatigue they un- dergo. Character. — The intellectual character of the people is good, — insomuch that, if a comparison were instituted between the advance- ment made by such Highland boys as attend school for a year or two, and that made by the boys of the peasantry in the Low- lands in similar circumstances, it would be found very much in fa- vour of the former. If we compare the amount of crime committed in our parishes here with that committed even in rural parishes in the south, the balance will still be found in favour of the Highlands. But it is too apparent, at the same time, that crime in this part of the coun- try has been much on the increase for several years back. This is partly owing to the poverty of the people : but in a great degree to the kind of intercourse which they carry on with the Lowlands. The great majority of the young women go thither annually dur- ing the harvest season, where they are not only withdrawn from the superintendence of their parents and friends, and destitute of the ordinances of religion, but are exposed to the contami- nation of the worst and most degraded society, and the effects are sadly visible in their loss of modesty and virtue. Many of them, after their return, give birth to children, who are unacknowledged by a father, and grow up without being received by the church, or much cared for by their mothers. There are several in the parish, of this unfortunate outcast class, unbaptized and unedu- cated. The young men generally go south in the latter end of spring, and continue at such work as they may find, until the begin- ning of winter, when they return home, and contribute of their earnings to the payment of their parents' crofts, but spend the remainder amid utter idleness* until the ensuing spring, when they resume their travels and their toil. Many of the aged men again, pass the months of June, July, and August, in fishing herring on the east coast of Scotland, and return to their homes only when their presence becomes necessary for the securing of their crops. Thus the population is quite a fluctuating one. The people, old and young, especially the latter, are for a considerable portion of 348 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the year removed from the salutary restraints of the presence of acquaintances and friends, and from the still more important re- straints of pastoral superintendence and gospel ministrations. The service of the sanctuary conducted in English is to them in an un- known tongue, from which they derive no benefit, and on which consequently they do not wait They are, while in the south, strangers, in whose moral or religious circumstances no one feels an interest ; and thus abandoned to their own wills, and exposed to the contact of society worse than themselves, they become each year more and more callous, and lawless, more and more confirm- ed in vice. A provision for the religious instruction of these poor wanderers who annually migrate from their own homes in quest of subsistence would certainly be a desirable boon. The people universally have a sense of religion, — of the religion of nature. Indeed, I have never met with a common Highlander who did not shudder at the mere mention of Atheism. At the same time, however, they are very ignorant of the religion taught in the Bible, — of the way of salvation through Christ Jesus. A strict profession of holiness is, it may be remarked, more honour- ed here than in many other parts of Scotland, the neighbouring county of Ross alone excepted, and there are some who act up to their profession. Yet the people generally are unacquainted both with the letter and the spirit of true religion, and there is much superstition, the sure concomitant of ignorance, still lingering among them. Our limits forbid us to enter at any length on this subject, but we may remark, that while it is now rare, though not unknown, to use charms or incantations for curing the diseases of the human frame, these means are daily resorted to for curing the diseases of cattle. " Silver water," as it is called, " fairy arrows,'* and " charmed stones," are still held to be possessed of much ef- ficacy, and they who have power to call forth their virtues are held in high estimation. There is at least one man in the parish who professes to be pos- sessed of the mysterious power known as the " second-sight" He affirms that he frequently foresees coming events ; but he wishes not to be spoken to on the subject, and seems to consider his gift a misfortune more than a benefit Smuggling may be said to be unknown now throughout the isl- and. A cask of foreign brandy or Hollands, and a roll of smug- gled tobacco are occasionally, but very rarely, received from some ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISII. 349 of the Baltic traders; and there is no illicit distillation carried on. Poaching is also nearly unknown. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Almost the whole population is engaged more or less in agriculture, lliere are five proprietors of land residing in the parish, all of whom farm to some extent, except one. There are seven tacksmen, or occupiers of large farms. There are 40 individuals who support themselves mainly by handicraft, or re- tailing merchandise : but all these have patches of land. There are two ministers, one surgeon, and ten schoolmasters in the pa- rish. There are at least 1200 grown up males employed in agri- culture during a considerable portion of the year, either as croft- ers, or as farm-servants. There are no retired capitalists among us. There are 1900 acres now in cultivation, and upwards of 3000 which were once cultivated, but are now in pasture. Thus there are about 40,000 acres which have always remained waste. There are 12,000 acres of these that might be brought into tillage, 4000 of which would probably yield a good return for the expense. The remainder, however, would require a greater outlay of capital than it would be prudent to expend upon them. 100 acres under wood ; no undivided common. The rate of grazing varies both according to the quality of the pasture, and the will of him who lets it. That of a cow ranges from L.1 to L.d, 10s. ; of a sheep from Is. to 4s. per annum. Wages, — The common wages of labourers are, in summer Is., in winter 9d. ; of artisans, 2s. 6d. without victuals ; of female ser- vants, from L.d to L.4, 10s. in the year ; of men, from L.6 to L.1 8, according tothe charge entrusted to them. I Ave- Stock, — There are still some of the caoirich bheaga^ or little sheep, — that is, the breed of sheep indigenous to the High- lands, — kept by the poor people ; but they are very worthless com- pared with the larger kinds introduced from the south. They are very diminutive in size, seldom weighing more than 30 ])Ounds, and are to be found of a great variety of colours, white, black, grey, brown, and sometimes with a mixture of all these. They are, however, useful to the common people, as they require very little food to support them, and are so tame as to allow themselves to be milked daily. Their wool is of a fine quality ; and their mutton possesses a delicacy of flavour which far surpasses that be- longing to the best fed of the larger kinds. These sheep constituted at one time all the flocks of the coun- 350 INVERNESS-SH!RE. try; and it is not above forty years since the caoirich mhora, or black-faced breed of the south, were introduced here. The gentleman who did introduce them is still living, though of an ad- vanced age. The black-foccd sheep were found to answer very well ; but they are now rapidly giving place to the Cheviots, which are found to answer still better. Every extensive farmer in the parish has adopted them as the most profitable stock ; and great attention has been paid to their improvement, so much so, that it is generally admitted that there are not better sheep in the whole county, than are reared in this parish. The black-cattle may be said to have given place almost en- tirely to the sheep. The crofters still keep them ; but those that they have, are of a very inferior description. There are only two of the gentlemen who retain what is called a fold of cows. These, however, are of very fine quality ; and it is evident that the soil is well adapted for the rearing both of sheep and black-cattle. Husbandry. — The most improved methods of husbandry were adopted several years ago by the land proprietors and the wealthy tacksmen ; but their example seems to have produced no effect on the common people, who still pursue a very antiquated, laborious, and unprofitable mode of tilling their land. It is rarely that they use a plough ; and though they are sufficiently well ac- quainted with the use of the spade, they never apply it to this purpose. The instrument in use among them is called cas^chrom^ literally the crooked leg, a kind of clumsy spade, or rather a very rude and primitive plough ; probably the primitive one which was subsequently so much improved on in various parts of the world. The cas^chrom is pointed with a piece of iron nearly half an inch in thickness, about ten inches in length, and four in breadth, which may be called its sock. Into this is fixed the sok, a strong piece of wood from two to three feet in length ; and to the sole is fastened, by means of nails, the handle or stilif which is about five feet in length, considerably thicker than a man's wrist, and forms a very obtuse angle with the sole or lower part At the junction of the sole and handle, there is a wooden pin, called sffonnatiy fixed in at right angles to the sole, for the foot to rest upon when the implement is used in digging. With this implement, rude and unwieldy as it is, accomplishing the work very superficially, do thousands of the inhabitants of this island, and of a few other portions both of Inverness and Ross- ISLAND OF SKYE DUIRINISH. 351 sliires, cultivate their lands ; not only plant, but hoe and dig their potatoes ; and it is difficult or apparently impossible to convince them, that there is any other which is better suited for these pur- poses. When oats or barley are put into the ground ploughed by the cas-chrom, it is harrowed, sometimes by means of a large rake made for the purpose, sometimes by a light harrow made of the or- dinary shape, but having wooden teeth, and drawn either by men or by women. I have seen this kind of harrow drawn by a horse ; but it was fastened in a very primitive, and, to me, a very new mode. The whole harness consisted of two straw ropes, the one of which was attached to the head, and the other to the tail of the animal. The one supplied the place of reins, the other of traces, collar, and hems. The harrow was tied to the tail by this straw rope, and the horse pulled away, apparently not much in- commoded by the weight fastened to it. In shearing their corn, the people use the common scythe hook ; but in tedding their hay, they use no rakes for gathering it This is done either by means of straight poles, or by the hands, and of course some of the hay is left on the ground, while much time is very needlessly lost The crofters have no notion of the advantage of following the rotation system in cropping. The only change is from oats to po- tatoes, and from potatoes to oats. But they do not always give such an advantage to the soil as is implied, even in this limited range. It is by no means uncommon to sow oats for three or four years running in the same spot, and that without giving it-any ma- nure. When it is getting out of heart, as it almost always does on the second year, the only mode of enriching it that is resort- ed to, is the heaping it up into narrower compass, — gathering in the edges of the broad ridges. This will ensure a tolerable crop from the centre of the ridge for another year, but meantime the sides be- come utterly unproductive. In the course of another year or two, the centre becomes equally so, and when the soil is thus complete- ly scourged and exhausted, it is left uncultivated for some four or five years, until it regains strength. But during this process of renovation it may be said to be totally useless, yielding nothing but weeds ; and even these in very small quantities. The oats sown are generally known as black oats, which are very small in the grain, and consequently yield little meal when ground. The potatoes also j^re of a soft and watery description. There is no attempt at draining or irrigation made. So little do the peo- 352 INVERNKSS-SniUK. pie know of the unfavourable effects of water on their crops, that many of them when cultivating slopes, or declivities, draw the fur- rows right across the face of the slopes, instead of drawing them up and down, so as to carry off* the water. The raising of clover, rye-grass, or turnip, is utterly unknown among them. It may be noticed, that the grain which is sent to the mill is ge- nerally dried in an iron pot over a common fire. The meal thus made is called mhi Urdraidli^ and is preferred both by the com- mon people and gentry to the meal dried on the ordinary kilns. It is also worthy of remark, that the grain is carried to the mill, not in sacks of the common description, but in sacks made of bent or rushes, or some other kind of grass. These are used as keep- ing places for grain and for meal. Indeed, they are the only sacks in use atnong the people, and are universally known by the name o( pidtdcltan. It was customary, not very many years ago, to per- form the processcsof thrashing and of kiln-drying the grain simul- taneously, by passing the sheaf of corn through a fire made of straw. The filaments that attach the grain to the stalk were rea- dily consumed, the grain fell down into the fire, which was so re- gulated as to scorch but not to consume it, and the remainder of the straw was thrown aside as useless litter. When the burning process was over, the grain was separated from the ashes and dust in which it had been buried, and ground by the quern or hand- mill. The meal thus made was called min ghrddaiu, and was very highly prized by all classes. It is not more than thirty years since this expensive and tedious mode of making meal was in al- most any instance departed from. So necessary to be followed was this method thought, that many intelligent farmers allowed their cattle to starve for want of provender during spring, while in order to have min ghradain^ they daily burnt more straw than would keep the cattle alive. I have it on undoubted authority, that a tacksman who died only a few years ago, a man of wealth and information, who used to quote the Georgics, and passages of Horace, over his bottle of wine, allowed, just thirty years ago, ten milch cows to die of starvation, while he had six stacks of corn in the barn-yard, all reserved lot min glirddain. Such are the effects of old habits. The general duration of leases is fifteen years. The fai-m- buildings are generally good, and the fences quite sufficient. There has been great advancement made within the last forty years in regard to draining, rotation of crops, introducing good seed, new ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 353 and effectual fanning implements, and in general all the improve- ments in agriculture known in the south by the upper classes. The chief obstacles to farther improvement by the gentlemen and tacksmen are the raininess of the climate, which renders it diffi- cult to secure a crop, though it should be reared ; in some instan- ces, want of capital, and in others, indifference to the subject. Among the cottars, again, one obstacle is want of leases ; (it should be remembered that they are only the occupiers of extensive farms who generally have leases, — that the cottars are almost universally tenants at will) ; want of capital, ignorance, and the rooted at- tachment that they feel to the habits in which they have been brought up. They know that the system which they follow is an unproductive one. They see a proper system pursued by the gen- tlemen around them : but some will say that they will not bestow their labour on improving land which may become another's be- fore the end of a year. Others again, that they cannot afford to ])urchase good farming implements, to drain or to enclose ; and many, that they will live as their forefathers did. Fisheries. — There are no fisheries for which rent is exacted ; but there is a\;onsiderable quantity offish caught in the creeks and lochs on the coast. The average annual value may be stated at L. 900. The fish is chiefly cod and ling, which are split up, salt* ed, dried, and in this state sent to the market. Raw Produce. — The total value of raw produce raised in the parish I am unable to state. The rental is L.4200, and the crop is not sufficient for food to the inhabitants, during more than eight or nine months of the year. Kelp. — There are about eighty tons of kelp manufactured an- nually in the parish. It does little more than repay the bare expense of making ; but it is taken as payment of rent by one of the landed proprietors ; and thus he turns the labour of the people to some account. Navigation. — There are three wherries, each about ten tons burden, belonging to the parish. No foreign vessels visit it for the purpose of trading. V. — Parochial Economv. Market'Town^ §-c. — There is no market-town in the parish. The nearest is that of Portree, which is twenty-four miles distant from the central part of the parish. There is a village called Stein, in the district of Waternish, built several years ago by the North British Fishery Society, which, however, has not in any 354 INVERNESS-SHIRE. degree answered the benevolent purposes contemplated by its builders. Means of Communication, — There is one post-office, where there are arrival?, and from which there are despatches of letters three times a-week. The length of turnpike road is about thirty-five miles. There are no canals or railroads. The harbours have been noticed in an early part of the account. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated in the centre of the parish, and is accessible to as many of the parishioners as will fill it ; l)ut it is very remote from nearly two-thirds of the po- pulation, many of them being eleven miles distant from it. It was built nine years ago, and is both substantially and tastefully finish- ed. It is seated for nearly 600. All the seats are rent free. There is no manse in the parish, the heritors allowing L.57 an- nually in lieu of it. The extent of the glebe is very great, being a mile and a quarter long by a mile broad ; but, owing to the poverty of the soil, the annual value of it is not more than L.dO. The stipend paid by the heritors is L.96. The deficiency is made up by the Exchequer. There is a church, built by the Church Extension Committee, situated in the district of Flasheddar or Arnizort, about twelve miles from the parish church. It contains 330 sitters, and is a very great convenience to the district ; but no minister has been appointed to it. There is a Government church, as already mentioned, in the district of Waternish, which forms a parish quoad sacray having a population of 1700. There are neither mission- aries nor catechists in the parish, though both are very much needed. There is no Dissenting chapel of any description. All the parishioners profess to belong to the Established Church, ex- cept four families, who attend an Episcopalian chapel, which is situated in the neighbouring parish of Bracadale. The sacrament of the Lord's Supper has not been dispensed at the parish church for the last eleven years until 1840, when only 35 communicants partook of the ordinance. In the Government church of Waternish, there was about the same number. It may be noticed here, that there is in this parish, as in almost every other parish in Skye, a set of men who regard " sealing ordinances" as of very little importance, — who seem to think that their efficacy depends to a great extent on him who ad- ministers them, and thus will receive them from the hands of a minister whom they approve of in every respect, but will, on no account, receive them from a person to whom they have an objec- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRTNISH. 355 tion, however trivial ; who, again, think that the efficacy will be completely taken away by the presence, at the same table with them, even of one unconverted person, — and being very uncharita* ble in forming an estimate of the character of those whose opinions differ in any respect from their own, they are remarkably scru- pulous as to those with whom they will partake. Through the in- fluence of these men (among whom there are some lay-preachers), aided by others who ought to have known better, the majority of the people have been brought to regard the sacraments, especially that of the Lord's Supper, with a degree of horror which causes almost all of them to avoid partaking of it. Thus there are nearly 200 children in the parish unbaptized, and the table of the Lord is unfrequented. It has, to a certain extent, become a proof of piety to avoid partaking of the sacraments ; and it is much to be feared that, when Christ's commands in regard to one subject have come to be set aside for the opinions of men. His commands in re- gard to others will, in process of time, be treated with equal dis- regard. Yet the unscriptural notions under consideration are daily gaining ground in the place. There have been L.64 contributed in the parish this year for religious and educational purposes. Education. — There are ten schools in the parish, — one paro- chial ; five supported by the Assembly's Education Committee ; three by the Gaelic School Society ; one by an Episcopalian So- ciety ; and one unendowed. Gaelic alone is taught in the three schools supported by the Gaelic School Society. In all the others English and arithmetic are taught The salaries of the school- masters do not average more than L.23 per annum. The school fees everywhere, except in the parochial school, where they amount to about L.8 a-year, are merely nominal, or very nearly so, not averaging L.I in each school. The fees charged in the parish school range from 8s. to 1 2s. in the year, according to the branches taught One-third of the children between six and fifteen years are unable to read, and of the grown-up population there are two* thirds in the same condition. The people, in general, are very indifferent regarding education, and keep their children from school for very trifling reasons. They are so very apathetic on this subject, that it would be highly de- sirable to introduce the compulsory regulations of Prussia among them. There is a portion of the parish where there are 150 chil- dren capable of attending school, who are so distant from a school- :]56 INVERNESS-SHIRE. house as to render attendance impossible ; but we have a promise of a school in this locality from the Assembly's Education Com- niittee. Still, there are three additional schools required, in order to render it easy for all the children to attend. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There arc 100 persons who rank as ordinary paupers, besides from 40 to 50 who receive occasional relief. The sum annually contributed for their support is a mere trifle. During the last year they got L. 10 as a legacy ; L.14 as donations from two individuals connected with the parish ; L.10 from two of the heritors ; and L.7 from church door collections ; mak- ing a total of L.41. Those who received the highest allowance did not oret more than 10s. The sum annually collected at the church door, does not amount to more than L.10, und there is no regular provision whatever made for the poor. They beg from place to place, and are always liberally assisted both by the tacks- men and by the crofters, who have anything at all to spare. But| at the same time, the condition of those who are bed-rid is a very wretched one ; while some of those who go about^ though they re- ceive food, are miserably ill off in regard to clothing. Some time ago, it was thought degrading to apply for aid from the poor's funds ; but this is not so by any means now, and there are many applying for relief who have no title to it. Fairs. — There is one fair annually held at a place called Fairy Bridge, which is three miles from Dunvegan. It is held for the purpose of disposing of black-cattle, but very few are sold there. luns, — There are two inns and three dram-houses or ale-houses* as they are sometimes called, in the parish. The principal inn, which is at Dunvegan, is remarkably well kept ; and it is always found, that where the inn-keeper is a man of right principle, there are few excesses committed in his house. Two of the other houses are entirely supernumerary, yet, much to the credit of the people, there is no great quantity drunk in them. The people generally are remarkably sober. Fuel. — The only fuel used by the common people is peat& MiSCELLANEOTIS OBSERVATIONS. Very great changes have taken place in the parish, both in re- gard to the aspect of the country, and to the habits of the people, since the last Statistical Account was published. The formation of roads and bridges may be first adverted to* Twenty-five years ago, there was only one bridge in the parish) and not a mile of carriage road. Now, there are lines of excellent 4 ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIIilNISlI. 357 road traversing it in various directions, and every stream that crosses these lines is spanned by a bridge. The district of Glendale is the only part that is yet left in its original inaccessible state. It may not be undeserving of notice, as illustrative of the effects of long-formed habits, and of that prejudice against innovation which is natural to a primitive race, that, for some years after the con- struction of roads, the common people would not on any account travel on them. They said that the stones and gravel both bruis- ed the feet, and wore the shoes, and they preferred to follow the old paths, uneven and boggy as they were. Now, however, they have become reconciled to level, dry, and hard roads, and the old paths are almost undistinguishable, being covered with heather and moss. The mode of agriculture pursued on the larger farms has like- wise undergone a total change. Now, fields of clover and turnip are to be seen, where at one time there was nothing but use* less bog-grass growing ; and a system of five years' rotation is adopted instead of the old one of two. New agricultural imple- ments have likewise been introduced. No longer than twenty years ago, ploughs made entirely of wood, with the exception of the sock and coulter^ were to be seen dragged by four horses, which required two men to drive them, and whose work was so imper- fectly done, that three men were employed in beating down the only half-turned furrows, and levelling the very uneven surface left behind. Wooden harrows, and carts of very clumsy workman- ship, in the few places where carts were available, were the only ones used; while generally, the articles to be transported from one place to another were carried on horses' backs. Now, one man drives a pair of horses with an iron plough, and does more than the work of six men with four horses. Iron harrows, carts of the best description, and indeed every farming implement used in the south of Scotland, are to be seen every day. Both dwelling-houses and farm-offices have undergone an equal- ly great improvement ; and the stock has been completely changed. About thirty-five years ago, black-cattle and horses constituted the wealth of the tenantry, and were found grazing on the tops of the highest hills. The few sheep kept were almost exclusively used for the table. The gentleman who broke in upon this sys- tem, is still living in a neighbouring parish, and has seen black- faced sheep universally introduced, and again give place to Che- viots, which now graze from the summits of the hills to the 358 INVERNESS-SUIllE. lowest meadows^ constitutinjg^ almost the sole stock of the tacks- men. The habits of the upper classes have likewise altered to some extent. They pay much more attention to literature than it was formerly customary to do; and the boisterous conviviality whicli, thirty years ago, was in very high estimation among them, is now almost universally abandoned raid discountenanced. Their hospi- tality continues as unbounded as ever, but in the exercise of it the rules of temperance or decorum are very rarely violated, and every excess is condemned and discouraged. The immensely increased facilities of attaining education make a great and most beneBcial change in the situation of the common people. Now, there are not more than 200 or 300 children in the parish who may not, without any very long journeys, attend school daily. Twenty years ago, there was not that number who could attend school. Schools have not yet produced the effects which they are fitted to do. Rut their influence is felt more and more each succeeding year ; and could the parents be prevailed upon to keep their children regularly in them for the space of a few years, they would ?oon work a total and most beneficial change in the condition of the community. The people have become less social, but much more peaceable in their conduct towards one another, and more temperate than they formerly were. It was, as is well known, customary for neighbours to visit each other*s houses nightly, and to while away part of the long winter evenings, in reciting tales and traditions, singing songs, or playing some musical instrument. Now, all this is completely given up. It is with difficulty that a tradition re- garding the once most popular characters or events can be picked up. " The Tales," or " Sgeulachdan^'' seem to be totally forgot- ten. It is rare to hear a song sung, and still rarer to hear the sound of pipe or violin. Each family confines itself to its own dwelling, or, if a visit is paid, the time is spent in retailing the silly gossip of the day. People certainly may be far more beneficially employed than the old Highlanders used to be ; yet we conceive the change in their habits to be a subject of regret on various grounds. The traditions of a country — the only source of infor- mation concerning bygone days in the absence of written records — are always interesting and instructive ; and it is to be lamented that the traditions of the Highlands have been to a great degree irrecoverably lost. Still more is it to be deplored that the d ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 359 " Sgeulachdan" or tales, which were at one period so universally prized, are now so conipletely forgotten ; for they were not only couched in apt and beautiful language, showing that the Gaelic, now become so harsh, and rusty, and unmanageable, was at one time smooth, euphonous, and pliable ; but the imagery employed ill them displayed often a rich and highly cultivated fancy ; while they almost universally contained a moral, highly important and well-pointed. In these and in the proverbs of the country, were the collective wisdom and intelligence of the Highlands to be seen. But both tales and proverbs are now nearly lost ; and while most interesting fragments might yet be recovered and preserved, the time for making a complete collection is for ever past. It is at the same time sincere cause of joy to every one truly interested in their welfare, that the people have abandoned their old customs in solemnizing funerals and marriages. Not many years ago, the memory of a person even in the humblest ranks would be thought dishonoured, unless from fifty to sixty individuals accompanied his remains to the grave. During the ^^fdrair^^ or wake, and especially on the day of the interment, such a quantity of meat and drink was distributed as kept the nearest surviving relatives for several years in the greatest poverty, in order to pay them, and what was far more to be lamented, so much whisky was drunk in the church, or in the churchyard after the ititerment, that people often forgot the sacredness of the place, and the so- lemnity of the occasion, renewed old feuds and dissensions, and fought fiercely amid the graves of their ancestors. The sod which, but a short time previous, was bedewed with the tears, and wit- nessed the lamentations of relatives mourning for him who was laid underneath, was stained with the blood, and became witness to the oaths and imprecations of other relatives, perhaps equally sincere in their attachment to the deceased, but for a time under the ungovernable influence of intoxication. Happily, however, these savage scenes are known now, only as the things of bygone days. Indeed, what may be termed a violent reaction has taken place in the feelings and customs of the people in regard to the funeral obsequies of their friends, which are at the present day conducted more quietly and privately than perhaps in any other portion of Scotland* Only a very few friends, generally from ten ' to fifteen, assemble to the interment of a common man, and the expense incurred does not amount to more than a very trifling sum, from L.I to L.1, 10s. SnO INVKRNKSS-SMIRK. The cliatige in regard to marriages is equally great. Formerly, from 60 to 1 00 persons used to assemble, and to pass at least two days in feasting and dancing. Now the average number does not exceed five or six ; the bridal feast is often nothing more than the usual poor fare of potatoes and herrings, with the addition of a glass of whisky to each individual present, and music and dancing are generally discontinued. Balls and dancing parties have also been given up throughout the parish. Indeed, all public gather- ings, whether for shinty playing, or throwing the putting-stone, for drinking and dancing, for marriages or funerals, have been discontinued, and people live very much apart. There is not a- tenth part of the whisky consumed that was consumed in the olden time ; nor is there one fight for ten that were then fought. Disputes are now referred to the arbitration of the Sheriff, instead of being settled bv club-law. In regard to the general morals of the parish, — a change which, upon the whole, may be pronounced decidedly favourable, has taken place. An open and unshrinking profession of religion, of the faith of Christ, is more frequent and more honoured than it was not many years ago ; and while there are some guilty of more glaring immorality than was then known, yet there are others leading lives of stricter purity and godliness. Thus the two ex- tremes are separating more widely, and it is cause of rejoicing to think, that, though the wicked are becoming more bold in their wickedness, believers are at the siime time becoming more cou- rageous in the cause of the Lord, and that, being engaged in his cause, they will assuredly prevail. Tehruary 1841. PARISH OF KILMORACK. PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. SIMON ERASER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History, Name^ Situation^ and Extent — The parish of Kilmorack, like many other parishes in the Highlands of Scotland, derives its name from its having afforded burial ground to some reputed saint or person of distinction — Kill MhoraCj signifying the bury- ing-ground of young Marion. From what family the lady sprung, cannot with certainty be determined ; though it seems most like- ly she was a descendant of one of the lairds of Chisholm, who, long before the Reformation, was the principal resident heritor in the parish, and to whose family a large proportion of it still belongs. The parish is bounded on the south, by the River Beauly, the parishes of Kirkhill and Kiitarlity ; on the north and east, by the parishes of Urray and Killearnan ; and on the west, by the pa- rish of Kintail. Topographical Appearances, — To a spectator placed on an emi- nence where an extensive view of this parish could be obtained, it would present a scene of sublimity and grandeur, united with rich- ness and beauty, almost unrivalled. Its eastern extremity consists of a large open plain, about three miles in diameter. Along its southern boundary, the river Beauly gently glides. About two miles west from the village of Beauly are situated the celebrated Falls of Kilmorack, which are annually visited by hundreds from all parts of the empire. They are less remark- able for their height than for their breadth, and the great volume of water poured over the precipice. The beautiful accompani- ments of lofty rocks, green banks, and hanging woods, which encir- cle them$ greatly add to the charms of the scene. As the water ap- proaches the precipice, 20 feet in height, it ** hovers doubtful, ^is it were, for a moment over the gulf, and as if forced reluctantly by the unconscious river behind, it is poured down without resistance, in one unbroken ponderous mass," into a deep cavern, which cannot INVERNESS. K\)l 302 INVERNESS-SHIRE. be viewed without feelings of apprehension. It then, for a short distance, gently pursues its course, and slowly forces its passage through a narrow opening between two lofty precipices, when it suddenly expands into an open semicircular basin, through which it glides with a sluggish motion, and is then precipitated over the low- er falls in a variety of cataracts. On the northern brow of the cliff, stands a little handsome summer-house, from which an advanta- geous view of this romantic scene can be obtained. The falls not be- ing suflSciently high or powerful, when the river is in any measure flooded, the salmon attempt to leap over the cascades ; often, how- ever, in the act of springing, they fall aprey to those who stand watch- ing them on the banks with hooks, or spears fixed to long rods ; or from the constant agitation of the water where they swim, on ac- count of the height from which it falls, they mistake their direc- tion and land on the dry rock. Branches of trees have been arrang- ed along the edges of these shelves, to prevent them from regain- ing the river, and by this means from eight to twelve of them have been caught in one night. It is reported of one of the Lords of Lovat, that, having met, on a certain occasion, an English gentle- man, and the conversation turning on the objectsof curiosity on their properties, he (Lovat) boasted that there was a kettle of boiling water on the south side of the river which flowed through his estate, in- to which the salmon from the river frequently leaped. The true ac- count of this apparently wonderful fact is, that, at the bottom of the southern precipice, there is a circular pit, kept constantly in a state of agitation by the descending volume of water, into which the salmon are driven back, when attempting to ascend the stream. For the space of two or three miles west of the parish church, the course of the Beauly is most romantic. This spot is called the Dhruim, (the back.) On cither side the mountain acclivities are co- vered with birch and fir, and the edges of the river are beautifully lined all along with rows of oak, weeping-birches, and alders. The river, during this part of its course, consists of a series of cascades, precipitated over shelving masses of red sandstone, while in the middle of the strath, close by the farm-house of Teanassie, tUe waters plunge through a rocky passage, encircling high pyramids of stone, standing in the midst of the stream. At the farther end of the Dhruim, stands the Island of Aigrsh, on which the present proprietor has built a beautiful dwelling-house* The western division of the parish assumes a wilder and rough- er aspect : it is of decidedly Alpine character. It consists of the KILMORACK. 363 three great glens of Stratliglass, Glenstrafarrar, and Glencannich, so called from the different streams which run through each. Meteorology, — The climale may be said to be generally humid and mild. The thermometer in the hot season ranges between 70° and 80°, while in the depth of winter it has not for some years past been observed below 24° of Fahrenheit. The average temperature may be stated about 48°. The changes in the baro- meter are frequent and rapid, often rising and falling half an inch in the course of an hour. Hydroyraphy, — 'I'he principal river is the Beauly, compos- ed of the three lesser streams Farrar, Cannich, and Glass, in- cluding Dheaick. Lakes are found almost in every district of the parish. The principal of these, are Loch Monar, Loch Beinevean, and Loch Affric, which are surrounded by the re- mains of an extensive pine forest. The scenery of these lakes is of singular grandeur: and perhaps, in that respect they are un- equalled by any in Scotland. On the mountain of Maum Soule, on the north side of Loch Beinevean, is the largest known body of perennial snow in Britain. In the middle of June, when the sun is vertical, a very little part of it only is dissolved. At the re- mote end of Glen-Strathfarrar lies Loch Muilie. In the centre of this loch, there is a small island, to which it is reported the late Lord Lovat retired, after the total defeat of his party at Cul- lodpn. Here, there is now a very neat shooting-box, which the present proprietor erected. Four or five miles further to the west, Loch Monar occupies a wild hollow a little to the north of the mountain Scour- nalapich, which in height almost equals Bennevis, Here there is an excellent fishing station, which is frequently resorted to by those who are fond of this sport. Geology and Mineralogy, — The prevailing rocks in the parish are gneiss, the old red sandstone, and the conglomerate rock, near Little Struy. A black lead mine, situated in a thick vein of heavy spar, traversing gneiss, was opened some years ago by Lovat, but it did not turn out profitable, the rock being exceedingly tough and hard, and the quality of the plumbago rather inferior. The soils in this parish are various — rich loamy, clayey, sandy, and gravelly. Zoology, — Most of the animals found in this parish are such as are common to the Highlands in general. In the western glens the red-deer are found in abundance ; — ^polecats, weasels, and liares are numerous. In many parts, the rabbits are a vwvsir 304 INVERNESS-SIIIRE. sance. They excavate their burrows in the lower slopes of sandy hillocks, whence they issue in scores, greatly damaging the corn in the neighbourhood. Two or three hundred of them have been often killed on some farms, in the short space of ten days. The fox is still an inhabitant of our glens. In the precipices among the higher mountains, the eagle builds its nest ; hawks of different species abound, as do also the owl, rook, hooded-crow, jackdaws, and raven. Magpies are not unfrequent. Blackcock and grouse of different varieties are numerous ; the ptarmigan is frequently met with ; and partridges are abundant. The rock and wood-pigeon often occur. Fishes. — The Beauly abounds in salmon, grilse, and trout. The fishing season of the salmon commences on the 1st of Fe- bruary ; of the grilse, on the 1st of June ; and of the trout, on the 1st of July. A stray pike is found now and then. Yellow trout are also sometimes met with. The lakes in the different districts abound in pike and trout Botany. — There is nothing very peculiar in the Flora of this parish. The Vaccinium oxycoccos^ called the badge of the clan Grant, is found in the hills of Strathglass. The edges of many small pools are encircled with broad and beautiful belts of the Nywphea alboj or white water-lily. The trees indigenous to the soil are, oak, birch, fir, and alder. Larch, hazel, and spruce were some time ago introduced, and seem to be quite congeniaL In the upper districts of the country, there were formerly extensive pine forests ; the only relics of which are a few solitary trees, that still cling to the precipices, or trunks dug up from the mosses. II. — Civil History. Eminent Persons. — The first individual worthy of notice, is the Rev. John Farquharson, well known as the first collector of Gaelic poetry. He resided, for upwards of thirty. years, in the Strath- glass district of the parish, in the capacity of Jesuit missionary. Some time after the Rebellion of 1745, Mr Farquharson was ap- pointed Prefect of Studies in the Scots College of Douay, where he remained till the year 1773. Having returned to Scotland at this period, he left his MSS. behind him ; but these papers having fallen into the hands of persons unacquainted with the language, were to- tally mutilated and destroyed. Information, however, was after- wards obtained from those who were students at Douay during Mr Farquharson's residence there, that after Macpherson's translation of Ossian's Poems appeared, they had a distinct recollection of Far- KILMOUACK. 365 quharson comparing them with some of those in his collection ; and remarking, that in many places, the translation fell far short of the original. The poems of Fingal and Temora were parti- cularly mentioned as having been thus compared. The late Chisholm of Chisholm, chief of the clan of that name, cannot pass unnoticed in any account of this parish. His eminent classical and scientific attainments, graced and sanctified by his unostentatious and unfeigned piety, rendered him peculiarly fitted for the honourable situation of representing his native county in Parliament. To that situation he was called at an early period of his life ; but death cut short his career almost in its commence- ment. The schemes of usefulness which he projected and carried on in the midst of his poor tenantry, remain, however, to testify his unbounded generosity and philanthropy. Antiquities. — In different parts of the parish, are to be seen the remains of many Druidical temples; and there is a chain of walled structures within sight of one another, proceeding up the river Beauly, and along the course of its parent streams, the Farrar and the Glass, and from the latter to Glen Affric. But what most attracts the attention of the traveller is the ruins of the Priory of Beauly, which rears its venerable walls above the aged trees which surround it. It belonged to the order of Valliscaulium, — a reformed portion of the Cistercians, following the rule of St Bennet, who were brought into Scotland in the beginning of the thirteenth century, by Malvoison, Bishop of St Andrews. This priory was founded by James Bisset of Lovat in the year 1230. The conditions in behalf of its founder were, ** ut pro ipso, dum viveret, ora- rent Monachi ; post mortem, funus corpusque exciperent, atque animam de corpore abeuntem, per continua sacrificia et opera pie- tatis prosequerentur." His charter is confirmed by Pope Gregory III. Rom. Julii, pontificatus sui anno quarto. The ruins bear no trace of turret or steeple, and are entirely destitute of sculpture or ornament ; but the area they enclose is nearly covered with tomb- stones of an unknown antiquity. The north aisle belongs to the Mackenzies of Gairloch, and the efiigy of a recumbent knight in full panoply under an arched canopy, marks the resting-place of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, eighth laird of Kintail, who died in 1493. The other divisions of it consist of the burying-grounds of the principal branches of the clan Fraser, of the Chisholms, and other tribes of Strathglass. From the total absence of letters on manv of the tombstones, it may be inferred that writing was unknown 366 INVERNKSS-SIllRE. in this country when these were constructed. The earliest inscrip- tions are dated 300 years after its foundation. They are all id the Saxon character, and are formed on the margin of an effigy of the deceased. On the north side of the front door, there is an im- pression similar to that made by the fingers of a man's hand : and the following legend commemorates the origin of that impression : A report having gone abroad that a stranger from the invisible world was paying his nightly visits to the priory, there was a gene- ral dread of approaching it after sunset A tailor in the neigh- bourhood, engaged, however, to finish two pairs of hose in it on a certain night, at an appointed hour. While he was busily occu- pied in performing his task, there appeared before him a huge spec- tre, stretching out its bony arm, and exclaiming, ^' See, tailor, a great hand without flesh and blood ;" to which the valiant tailor re- plied, ^^ I see that, and I sow this." The same expression was uttered thrice, and the tailor's work being finished, he rose to depart, when the spectre pursued with uplifted hand, attempting to strike him. The hand, however, missed its aim, and struck the side of the door, upon which it left the impression of its fingers.* On the Muir of Ord, to the east of Beauly, there are two up- right stone pillars, nearly six feet high, commemorative of a feat of ancient warfare, and connected, it is said, with a prophecy re- garding the extinction of the clan Mackenzie. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers of this parish ex- tend as far back as the sixteenth century; but, from the irregular manner in which they have been kept till within the last thirty or forty years, no information of importance can be derived from them. Land-Owners. — The landed proprietors of the parish are, the Honourable Lord Lovat, and Chisholm of Chisholm. III. — Population. The population of the parish at tlie time of the last Statistical Accoubt was 2818 by l!he census in 1831, - ... 2709 of the village of Beauly, .... 50B Consequently the country population amounts to - • 2201 The increase of population during the last thirty years has been principally owing to the influx of people from other quarters into the village of Beauly. The native inhabitants have increased but * In the house of the priests who officiated in this priory, Queen Mary, it is said, was entertained for a night ; and upon seeing in the morning the beautiful Tiew from its windows, she exclaimed, <' C*est un beau lieu ;" and hence the name. Beau- ty* was given to the vilkige and river. KILMORACK. 367 little. The letting of large tracts of land to single individuals has occasioned the banishment of many of them, who, for many gene- rations, possessed the soil. They have been forced to seek an asy- lum in a foreign land, where they enjoy Nature's bounties in richer abundance. In a parish of such extent, it is impossible to ascertain with exactness the number of deaths, marriages, and births. Of the first no register is kept ; and there are so many Roman Catholics in the Highland part of it, that even the marriages and births can* not be ascertained. Of the Protestant population, however, the average number of baptisms for the last seven years may be reckon- ed at 46 annually ; and marriages, 9. The number of insane persons in the parish is 14, and of blind, 4. Character and Habits of the People. — In many of the western parts of the country, the march of improvement has been very slow, and the strongholds of superstition are not yet demolished. The people are in general below the middle size, but uncom- monly hardy, and capable of enduring privation. They are fond of performing long journeys in the night season ; and it is nothing strange to see a married man travelling with his horse and cart a distance of thirty miles, without a bonnet on his head. The language generally spoken in the inland part is the Gaelic, white, in the eastern extremity, few are found, who cannot speak the English. There is among all classes an earnest desire that their children should acquire a knowledge of the latter. Little can be said i(i praise of their sobriety. The quantity of ardent spirits consumed is immense. A great deal, however, of that rioting at marriages and funerals, which formerly existed, has been done away with. Their favourite amusements are shinty matches and dancing. They are particularly fond of being neat and clean : and the ambition for articles of finery is widely spread among the rising youth. Poaching and smuggling are nowjalmost discon- tinued. IV. — Industry. From the great extent of this parish, and the various directions in which the large and small farms lie, the number of acres which are cultivated, in pasture, or under wood, cannot with any certainty be determined. On the Lovat property, about 200Q acres may be in tillage; while, on the estate of the Chisholm, the average is about 900. The upper district of the parish is in general pastoral ; and much attention is not paid to tillage^ 368 INVERNESS-SHIUE. except to obtain what is requisite for family use. There are many thousand acres under wood, paitly natural and partly planted. Great attention is bestowed on the management of trees ; they are thinned annually, and most of the fir trees felled are sold for railway sleepers; while the birch is manufactured into staves for barrels. Rent of Land. — The rent of arable ground varies with the qua- lity of the soil. A few lots are rented at L. 4, 10s. and L. 4 per acre; many large farms at L. 2, L.2, 5s. and L.2, 10s.; many others from L.1, lOs. to L.I. The average rent may be stated at L.1, 1 5s. per acre. The average rent of pasture is reckoned at L.4 or L.4, lOs. for each ox or cow, including pro- vender for winter. Hill pasture, however, in summer, with pro- vender in winter, may be obtained for L.1, 10s. The average rent paid for a ewe or full-grown sheep pastured for a year, is from 2s. 6d. to ds. Wages. — Farm-servants are usually hired for the year. If married, they receive, together with a small dwelling-house, from L. 12 to L. 15 a year; 6 barrels of coals; 6 bolls of oat- meal; and 6 bolls of potatoes. Some also receive pasture for a cow. Unmarried farm-servants frequently, and female-servants commonly, are boarded in their master's house, and receive only money wages, the former from L. 8 to L.10, and the latter from L. 3 to L. 4 per annum. Common labourers receive Is. 6d. per day in summer, and Is. per day in winter without victuals. Masons and carpenters 2s. 6d. per day. Cheviot wool sell sat 14s. per stone, cross 12s.; cheese 6s., and butter 18s. per stone; meal from 17s. to 20s. per imperial boll; and potatoes from 7s. to lOs. per boll of 4 barrels (each barrel containing 32 gallons.). Live-stock. — Formerly, the sheep in the parish were the few possessed by the farmers for their own consumption; the rearing for the use of .others was little attended to ; while now, the rich pasture of our country is occupied by thousands of the different breeds. The most common are the Cheviot and black-faced. Much attention is bestowed upon the improvement of this titock. Husbandry. — Improvements in agriculture have made rapid pro- gress in this parish, of late years. The mode pursued is not in- ferior to that in the most improved districts. Lime is generally used. Bone dust has also been lately introduced, for raising tur- nips, and with good effect. As the soil, in many places, is rather wet| agreat deal of draining is required, which has only as yet been 3 KILMORACK. 3(/9 partially effected. According to the terms of agreement, a regu- lar rotation of cropping is observed so far as soil and season will permit The shift is every five years. The first year is generally bare fallow or potatoes ; 2d, wheat or barley ; Sd, grass ; 4th, grass ; and the 5th, barley or oats, but most commonly oats : after that, the land is dunged before the rotation commences again. The general duration of leases is fifteen years ; latterly, it has been increased to nineteen. The former of these is very unfavourable to the tenant, as it affords little time for making improve- ments. There are scarcely any enclosures in the parish; and, with very few exceptions, the farm-buildings are very indifferent. The deficiency of capital with many, and the want of encourage- ment by proprietors, are greatly felt as drawbacks to improve- ment. Quarries^ Fisheries^ and Manufactures. — The only quarries in the parish are of red sandstone : it is of inferior description, and used for common purposes. The only fishery is on the Beauly ; the annual rental of which is L.1600. Many thousand trees are annually cut down in the Lovat and Chisholm woods. These are sawn into square timber, planks, deal, staves, sleepers, &c. for the home and English markets. Navigation. — There are only two small vessels belonging to the parish. A great number of vessels, however, from other quarters, trade to the place with coals, lime, &c : and in return, they are supplied with cargoes of wood. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Taum. — The nearest market-town is Inverness, which is situate at the distance of eleven miles. The means of com- munication are excellent, inasmuch as the Parliamentary road traverses the whole length of the parish, and is kept in such excellent repair, that it may vie with the roads of more southern districts. The village of Beauly is pleasantly situate at the eastern ex- tremity of the parish. It is a village of some extent — having its principal street formed generally of slated houses, and exhibiting some well-stocked shops. A post-office has been established in it for the last fifty years ; the north mail daily passes through it ; and foot-runners go from it through various parts of the country. A sheriff- officer constantly resides in it ; and there has lately been established a branch of the North of Scotland Banking Company, which promises to be of great advantage to the agricultural and 370 INVL'ttNESS-SHIRE. inei'caiitiie interests of the district. The harbour is small, and iioC of the best description. The principal bridges in the parish are, the handsome granite one, of five arches, erected some years ago near the influx of the Farrar into the Glass; and the Lovat Bridge, built in 1810, across the Beauly. This latter bridge was built at an expense of nearly L. 10,000. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands a few miles from the eastern extremity of the parish, in a very convenient situation for the greater part of the population. The village of Beauly, and the space of four or five miles round about it, comprise nearly two- thirds of the population of the parish, that is a population of about 1800. Of these, upwards of 100 are Roman Catholics, and about 50 Episcopalians. The accommodation aflbrded by the churcli falls far short of what is required, as there are not sittings for one* third of the population. A few years ago, it underwent a thorough repair; and now, as far as it goes, the accommodation is very com- fortable. The attendance on worship is generally good* The popu- lation of the upper district of the parish is chiefly Roman Catholic The Committee of the General Assembly for the management of the Royal Bounty has, for many years, supported a Missionary to this and the neighbouring parish of Kiltarlity. He officiates for three successive Sabbaths at Cannich school, and the fourth at Glenstrathfarrar. The late Chisholm of Chisholm, two years ago, built a very neat church on his own property, which aflbrds accommodation to 300 individuals. Though built in the parish of Kiltarlity, it is acces- sible to the inhabitants of Kilmorack. A fixed stipend of L.70 per annum, with other perquisites, which amount to L.80, is to be granted by the present proprietor ; and it is expected, that, in a very short time, a minister will be ordained to the vacant charge. Worship has been performed in it, since it was opened, by the aid of the neighbouring clergy. In this district, also, two Roman Catholic priests officiate. They have two places of worship, capable of affording accommodation to upwards of 500. The one is situated at Wester Eskadale, on the south side of the Beauly ; the other lies at no great distance from the house of Fasnakvle. The manse is an old building, situated close by the parish church, on a rising eminence, whence a commanding view of the exquisite scenery around it may be obtained. The glebe is very small, and worth only L»5 per annum. The amouoi KiLMoiiACK. :ni of the stipend since its augmentation, in 1815, is, in money L.212, 5s. 6d., 9 bolls of bear, and 24 bolls, 2 firlots, 1 peck, 2^ lippies of meal, which includes L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The number of communicants connected with the parish is 84 ; but, including those from the neighbouring parishes, it amounts to about 300. Collections are occasionally made for the Gene- ral Assembly's missionary schemes; and there is a. contribution made to the Inverness Royal InBrmary once in three years. Education, — The number of schools is three — two parochial, and one supported by the Chisholm ; but the parish has also the benefit of two schools which belong to the neighbouring parish. The salary of e«ich parochial teacher is the minimum, with the legal accommodations. In some of the schools, the amount of school-fees does not exceed L.8 or L.IO, while in the principal they fall little short of Li20. The branches taught are, English and Gaelic read- ing, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, the elements of Algebra and mathematics, Latin and Greek. The immense advantage in respect of education which the Strathglass district of this parish, for the space of twenty-three miles, possesses over many parishes in the Highlands, is entirely owing to the munificent generosity of the family of the Chisholm, — a family which it is impossible to men- tion without gratitude, for the benefits it has conferred on so large a portion of this dark and unenlight^ened district. There is still, however, a great deficiency of school accommodation in the village of Beauly. 4 Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 6) ; but occasionally, assistance is given to many others. The average sum allotted to each of those upon the poor's roll is 6s., 8s., and 10s. per annum. The only funds possessed by the parish are the collections at the church doors. They never amount to more than L.12 Sterling per annum ; occasional donations are granted by the heritors. Few of the inhabitants go out of the parish in search of relief, and these only when compelled by necessity. Fairs, — On the Muir of Ord, is now held the most important cattle fair in the north of Scotland, for the purpose of accommodat- ing dealers from the south, and every part of th^ country. The following have been appointed as the days on which the market holds: \st market, the Miiir of Ord, on third Wednesday of April ; 2d, second Wednesday of May ; 3, and a piece of land given at the church of Petyn equal to the two glebes. They seem to have been always united as one parish since the Reformation. In the minutes of session of date June 80, 1662, the people of Flemington are ordered to attend catechising in the church of Bracholy. A similar intimation is noticed March 18, 1688. But at what time Divine service ceased to be alternately performed in each, we have not been able to ascertain. • Registrum, p. 72. f IWd. 366. 376 INVERNKSS-SIllRE. Name. — The name Bracholy, vulgarly called Braichlich, is obvi- ously derived from the church or district being situated above or behind the wood, (eaglais a bhraighe'ChoUle) ; a wood at one time having grown on the declivity to the moss. The etymology of Pettie is by no means agreed upon. Could we be certain that the name Lunyn or Lunnin in the Chartulary refers to the farm of Lonie, ad- jacent to Castle Stuart, to the east of which is a delta of land, from time immemorial called the Island, or Island Macmartin, (and as i or inn means an island,) — the names Lunyn and Petynmay perhaps have their etymons traced to the meadow, (Celtic, &m), and to the hollow, (Celtic, pit)^ or to the promontory, (Celtic, Pait hil- lock) by the island. The topographical description of Lunnin, given in the charter granted by the bishop, and conGrmed by King William at Inverness, between 1171 and 1 184, corresponds to that of Lonie, to the east of which is the island. By that charter, the hermit, John, obtains exclusive right to the island, ^'qu« est in lacu de Lunnin ab orientali parti." It lends some probability to our supposition, of Lunnin being Lonie in Pettie, that Bishop An- drew in his grant of lands to Walter de Petyn names the lands of Lunnin* after those of Ardtrillen, ( Altirlies), part of the present Culloden property, with which Lonie is conterminous. It mili- tates, however, against our opinion, that Lunnin is spoken of as a church in connection with Croyn (Croy), when Petyn and Bra- choly are spoken of as united churches. It seems scarcely pro- bable that there would be a church at Lonie, if the church of Pet- tie was in its present site, and that, too, connected with Croy ; unless, indeed, we suppose that the lake between Lonie and Petyn was such at one time as to render intercourse between the two places somewhat difficult or impracticable, except by boat. Indeed, until Lord Moray, about sixty years ago, opened the main drain, the whole vale was a morass. At about the same distance as from the old church of Bracholy to Dalcross, there is, as we advance on the hill-side towards Inverness, Chapeltown ; and below it on the sea shore at Altirlie Point, (where there are the traces of a burying- ground), tradition says that a chapel once stood, and that out of its ruins the boiling-house of the first salmon-fishers who came to the Point was built. It would thus appear that there was a succession of churches on the hill side, and others at the shore, every two of which were served as one cure. Extent. — The length of the parish is about 8 miles along the • ChartuVy, p. 23. PETTIE. 377 shore of the Moray Frith ; or from about a mile from Fort George till it comes to within four miles from the town of Inverness. It varies- from 2 to 3 miles in breadth^ and extends about 9 miles on the interior side, connecting the parishes of Nairn and of Inverness. Boundaries and Figure. — The boundaries on the eastern and western extremities were, at one time, two brooks or burns, the courses of which can yet be traced, although the compulsory spirit of modern improvement no longer admits of their <^ wandering at their own sweet will." That which separates Pettie from Invert ness, a little beyond the fourth milestone from that town, is called Ault^an^fhiler^ or fiddlers' burn. It is now no better than a small drain, if it was ever much more, except after a heavy fall of rain or snow. That which separates Pettie from Ardersier on the east, formed at one time the boundaries between the properties of the Earls of Moray and Cawdor, where the villages of Stewarton and Campbelton now rise together. That bum has been, however, beyond the recollection of any one now living, turned to supply a mill, and to empty itself into the sea, on the west, instead of, as originally, on the east side of Stewarton. On the south, the parish is bounded by Croy, and by the Moray Frith on the north* Topoffraphical Appearances. — Though situated in the High-* lands, and the entire population, till recently, speaking the Gaelic language, the parish is the reverse of mountainous. The land rises like a broken wave from the sea, in some places with a bank of considerable steepness and height, then sinks into a vale of moss land, (from which, till reduced to cultivation, the town of Invert ness used to be supplied with rushes) : thence it ascends again to the parish of Croy, and the Moor of Culloden, which extend along the ridge. Towards the sea the soil is of a clayey sand or of a light character. The Braes, as they are called, form- ing the ascent from the moss to Croy, are of a stronger and more fertile quality of soil. Several brooks fall over a bed of rocks into the vale ; and from the advantage of these streams, some of the farmers in the braes and low grounds have thrash- ing-mills which are wrought by water. From this advantage, smuggling was very common, formerly, among the small farmers in the braes ; and when they were removed, one of the first tenants of the enlarged farms, a Mr Collie, established a distillery, which was carried on, for several years, till his death* Even the greatest winding along the shore scarcely deserves the name of bay. It is between Altirlie Point, where a commodious harbour could be INVERNESS. B b 378 INVEKNESS-SHIRK. formed, and the promontory on which the church is built: On this beach, coals and lime are landed, and further east, on the beach of Connage, towards Campbeltown and Fort George, the woods cut down in the eastern district are shipped. As nothing greater than a boulder is found along this sandy shore, vessels could land their cargo at any place, except for the danger of the tides being too low to carry them ofl^ The sea recedes to a great distance at low-water, except at Altirlie Point, where, in conse- quence of the water receding very little, families from Inverness frequently take lodgings during summer and autumn, in the Gshing village, and with the neighbouring farmers, for the purpose of sea- bathing. Meteorology. — The climate of the parish is of the same cha- racter witli that which prevails along the coast of Moray ; and were the soil as rich as the climate is genial, no district in Scot- land would surpass it in fertility. The superior fanners note, oc- casionally, in their books, the character of the weather, especially in seed-time and harvest, but, except by the writer, (whose register, however, is of too recent a date and too irregularly kept to be of any use,) no observations on the temperature by the thermometer, nor estimates of the quantity of rain by the guage, have ever been systematically made in the parish. The following notices of the time of sowing and reaping are taken from the farm-books of John Gollan, Esq. of GoUanfield, and James Strother, Esq. one of our most intelligent and systema- tic farmers. Note of sowing and reaping at Balmachree, west end of Pettie, by Mr Strother:— Sowing began and ended. Reaping began 1832, March 11, AprU 9. August 29. 1833, 13, March 90. September 1. 1834, 13, April 6. August 20. 1835, 25, 17. -_. 19. 1836, 19, 25. September 1. 1837, April 5, 30. August 28. 1838, March 28, May 2.* September 17. At the east end of Pettie, about six miles east of Mr Strother's farm, J. Gollan, Esq. of GoUanfield, has recorded his sowings as follows : — * For the last four years less wheat has been sovrn in November, which presents a greater breadth of barley in spring, and accounfs for the lateness of concluding the spring sowing. The harvest is generally concluded in six weeks. In 1826 it re- quired eight weeks. PETTIB. 379 Sowing began and ended. 1826, March 17, May 12. 1834, 17, April 21. ]8d5, 23, 28. 1886, 22, May 10. lSiY7, April 6, June 6 in the mosH, 1838, 2, May 12. 1839, March 29, April 17. Dr James Tolmie of Campbeltown writes, " The medical to- pography of Pettie presents few of those features which are pro- ductive of insalubrity. A line of morass, extending with occa- sional breaks through nearly the length of the parish, exhibits, from the improved system of agriculture and draining, a continua- tion of fertile fields, rather than a source of marsh miasmata. Indeed, indigenous cases of intermittent fever are very rare. The climate in summer and autumn is dry and bracing ; but in the winter months, the cold and humid south-west wind, to which, from lying in the mouth of a mountain defile, the parish is much exposed, is sharply felt. In common with the parishes around it, it presents a fair proportion of the maladies of our climate, al- though it is not distinguished by the prevalence of any particular disease. Erysipelas and rheumatism may be said to be common. In tracing the etiology of the former, (when it does not appear in an epidemic form,) a morbid predisposition may with more justice be attributable to exposure to cold and wet, and to other causes, than to any insalubrious locality. As a therapeutic agent in this exantheni, the peasantry place implicit confidence in the virtues of the herb Geranium Rohertianumi used internally in the form of decoction, and externally as a stupe. I believe its efficacy to be more traditional than real, and probably entitled to the same praise as another curative process in this disease, often adopted by th^ Highlanders, which is the application of a piece of scarlet cloth to the inflamed skin. This latter is of great an- tiquity, possibly a Pictish relic. Whilst the matrons profess a thorough knowledge of ^ baleful weeds, and precious juiced flow- ers,' they evince anything but discrimination in the use of them. Thus the Glechama hederaceoy an useless herb, is administered in almost every disease * that flesh is heir to.' And, as showing the remote antiquity of the use of some herbs, and their extensive ce- lebrity^ it may be mentioned, that the plantain leaf, PUxntago majovy in Gaelic, slan-lus^ which, upwards of two centuries and a- half ago, was declared by our great English bard to be * excellent for your broken shin,' is here very generally known, and applied to recent wounds and old ulcers. If instances of longevity con- aSO 1NVBRKESS-8HIRB. stituted the comparative salubrity of a place, this ^)arish may be said to possess it. But the want of mortuary registers, &c. ne- cessarily renders this branch of medical statistics imperfect." Hydrography. — There are several excellent and copious springs. There are some at the very top of the highest and sandiest part of the bank of the sea, and others on a level with the sea, and overflowed by it, at every high tide. Below the promontory on which the church stands, there is one with a copious rill, proved to be of the most uniformly cold temperature in the neighbourhood of Inverness. At Tornagrain there is tohar na guly or the boiling fountain, where, on a level flat, there are various inter- mittent spouts, and with every ejection of the water, the purest sand rises and spreads round the orifice from which the water is thrown, till the weight of the sand changes the orifice, and this sand is distributed by the same process anew. At Culernie is tobar na clerick. Between Culblair and Mid Coul, is Bruach-na ftwraiij or Brae of the Well, where the old inhabitants say Loch- andunty empties its waters. Some of the farmers, however, towards the sea shore, are put to inconvenience from deficiency of water^ if there be any continued drought in summer. From a register of observations, &c. kept by Mr Adam, Ex- Rector of the Inverness Academy, we give the temperature of the two first mentioned springs. The spring at the church, Mr Adam found, during the whole years of 1821-22; to be uniformly at 47° Fahrenheit; but Tobar na gul varied in 1821, between 45^"" and 46^% and in 1822, between 45^^ and 45^^ Lakes. — The only lakes or lochs we have to mention are Loch Flemington and Lochandunty ( Lochan-dun-duibh^) the loch of the black hillock. They are both situated on th6 ridge towards Croy, and in the old parish of Bracholy. Geology. — " The ridge which bounds the parish on the south belongs to the old red sandstone formation, and its bed consists either of red or of a bluish-grey micaceous sandstone with little or no conglomerate, and no subordinate layers, except a few thin ones of limestone and a bituminous shale, which is not abundant. No scales or other impressions of extinct fishes or other organic remains have as yet been found, though, on the south side of the ridge, on the estate of Cantray, the sands there have been found to exhibit traces of sauroid reptiles."* It requires little skill in decyphering the monuments of past * G. Anderson^ Es^ Invernen. PETTIE. 381 revolutions on the earth's surface, to be able to trace the appear* ances and formations of the undulating plain, lying between the foot of the ridge and the shore of the Frith, to aqueous causes. Some seem inclined to regard the appearances which this district presents, as indicative that it once formed the estuary, on which the waters which flowed from the Great Glen of Scotland strug- gled with those of the Moray Frith ; and that the undulating sur- face consists of the accumulation of sand and soil then thrown up, and before which the sea has retreated. Others have adopted the theory, that the sea formerly covered a, channel, extending from the Moray Frith to the western coast, along the Great Glen, or the line of the Caledonian Canal ; and that the land which now separates the two seas is an upheaved bed or beach of the sea. Whatever facts other districts may furnish in support of these views, nothing has been brought to light in this parish, so far as we know, which would indicate that the formations in the plain are from marine deposit. Lyell, in his account of the en- croachments of the sea on the land in difierent places round our island, notices, that *^ there have been inroads of the sea at Fort- George, and other places in Morayshire, which have swept away the old town of Findhorn." This supposes the sea to have ad- vanced inwards in the Glen, and not to have retreated. Anterior to such irruption of the sea, the parish must haveTormed the basin of a fresh water lake, and the formations must be the efibct of a fluviatile, not marine deposit. The greatest excavations which have been made in the bwest parts of the vale do not penetrate deeper than, if so deep as, the pre- sent level of the water in the Frith. The lowest stratum is compos- ed of arenaceous clay and marl, rarely capable of being applied to any useful purpose. It is not unlikely that this rests on the sand- stone on which Fort- George is built, almost in the very waters of the Frith. This lower stratum forms the bed of the moss; and on it, where the ground ascends from the moss, we find superim- posed a stratum of very varying thickness, of a very fine white and compact dead sand. On the top of this, and sometimes in its mass towards the top, are very Ihin layers of sand, looking as if coloured with oxide of iron. In some places there is no soil over this sand — not a sufficient growth of grass to conceal it — but a feathering of broom, rising so spontaneously, as to show that, if it were not uprooted for fuel by the poor, the surface would soon bo clothed with it. On much of the land in cultivation, the broom 382 INVERNESS-SHIRE. threatens to dispute the ground, if left under grass three years. In other places a kind of sandy loam, varying from a mere sprink- ling to the depth of many feet, covers the compact sand : and to- wards the east, soil of a less sandy, but more stony character, and less pervious to water, is found. Such stratification gives evidence of an aqueous sediment, very gently and gradually deposited in all but the uppermost stratum. From the height above the present level of the Frith, to which the deposit has been made, the waters of the lake must have flowed a considerable distance before they emptied themselves into the sea, or else the whole basin — from Beauly to Fort- George — has been uniformly upheaved, because the ground at these extremes presents corresponding elevations. But whether at the period when the sea broke in at Fort- George, and gained upon the land along the shores of the Moray Frith at Find- horn, there was a convulsion of nature, by which the lacustrine basin of Pettie was elevated, and the shores at Findhom depres- sed ; or whether the sea only gradually ate away the eastern bar« rier, so as to drain the lake while it made a farther entrance for itself, we have no means of determining. There is evidence, that, on the beach between Campbelton and Fort-George, the sea has encroached upon the land ; for I have heard Dr Tolmie repeatedly say, that he has dug up peat-moss, bearing the evidence of terrestrial flora, nearly two hundred yards within flood-mark. But, except at this place, at Campbelton, where the waves, deflected from Chanonry Point, would soon cut their way, unless obstacles were interposed, into the moss of Pettie, and reduce the bank between that and Castle Stuart to an island, (which it obviously once was), the land is gaining from the sea along the rest of the coast of Pettie. For there are now fields of cultivated land, and stretches of pasture, bearing obvious marks of being reclaimed sea-beach. We wish we could ascertain whe- ther there be any difierence between the soundings lately made, in the Trigonometrical Survey of this coast, and any previous sound- ings,' so as to show the rapidity with which, it is likely, the Frith is adding to the land between Inverness and Fort- George. II. — Civil Histoiiy. The history of the north of Scotland, previous to the twelfth century, with the exception of some few particulars, may be class- ed with that of the ages of fable and romance. By that time we find the name of Petyn noticed in history ; and mention made of a fortalice or castle, which seems to have been erected either as PETTIK. 383 defence in case of invasions by the Danes from the sea, or as a, stronghold, in order to retain possession of the country upon the subjugation of the Moraymen in the reign of Malcolm IV. The ancient territory of Petty and Brachly, comprehending at least the whole modern parish, first occurs in record as part of the possessions of a branch of the great family of De Moravia, who seem to have held these lands as^rmant, or tenants of the Crown^ from the end of the twelfth century ; and, early in the thirteenth, Walter.De Moravia conferred the parsonage tithes of the churches of Petty and Brachly on the cathedral church of Moray, of which they thenceforward formed one of the prebends, the patronage remaining with the family of the granter. In 1226, Bishop Andrew enters into an agreement with Wal- terus de Petyn, relative to the lands of Ardtrillen, Lunyn, Dul- davy, and Croyn, which lands his father, William, it is said, had held, and affirmed that they belonged to him by hereditary right. It is not improbable that Petyn had been possessed by Freskyn himself. In charter 6) of the chartulary of Moray, which establishes pre- bends in Elgin cathedral, this is said to be done as to Pettie and Bracholy, with the consent of Walter de Moravia, then patron* In the preface to the chartulary we have an account of successive possession of these lands by Sir Andrew Murray, and Archibald the Grim, third Earl of Douglas, by his marriage with the heiress of Bothwell and Pettie. It is probable that the lands of Petty and Brachly formed part of the territory contained in the successive erections of the Earl- dom of Moray^ while, at the same time, the neighbouring fami- lies of Mackintosh and Kilravock had acquired some title to va- rious parts of them, under which the former occupied the lands of Hallhill, and the latter those of Flemington and Easter Brach- ly, until the old tenure of Flemington was changed into a feu from the Earls of Moray about the beginning of the seventeenth cen- tury. The greater part of the parish is still the property of the Noble family of Moray. The family manuscript history of the Mackintoshes, in posses- sion of the chief at Moyhall, states, that the Mackintoshes became possessed of Pettie and Bracholy, formerly possessed by the Mo- raymen, who were entirely destroyed in the rebellion. In 1281, the Earl of Ross, having injured the churches of Pe- tyn and Bracholy, came to terms with the church, by assigning the lands of Kattepol and Pitkanny to the Elgin cathedral, as a 384 INVERNESS-SHIRE. propitiation for his own souU the souls of his wife and children, and all his predecessors, and all his successors. (Charter 220.) The people of Pettie were engaged in the battle of Clachna- henry, (see Sir R. Gordon or Brown's History of the Highlands, Vol. L p. 151,) for the Moyhall manuscript states, that the fiery cross was sent by Mackintosh to Pettie, calling out the people to the pursuit of Munro of Fowlis. In 1368, the Moyhall manuscript makes William, the seventh Laird of Mackintosh, to have his residence in Connage, Pettie. From 1314, when the Crown lands in Moray were erected into an earldom by King Robert Bruce, and bestowed on his nephew, Randolph, Pettie seems to have always formed part of the lands belonging to the Comitatus or Earldom of Moray. In 1455, (Shaw, Part II.) the lands of the Earldom were an- nexed to the Crown ; and some time after the Laird of Findlater held the barony of Pettie of the Crown, and afterwards of the Earl of Moray. In 1495, the Moyhall manuscript states, that the Earl of Hunt* ly kept possession of Connage, sixteen years, till King James V. was born ; at which time the feu of Petyn was given by King James IV. to Sir William Ogilvie of Banff, because his wife, called Nannie Pant, an English woman, was the first advertiser of the birth of his son, James V. Sir William, shortly there- after, begged the Castle of Petyn, and dwelt therein till the Clan Chattan, under the conduct of Dougal Mor M^Ghille Challum, besieged and burnt it, and slew a son of Sir William's, and eight- een men, whom they found there. Upon this the said Dougal put himself in possession of Connage, and chased John Ogilvy, possessor thereof, and brother of Sir William, with his wife and children, out of the country, and crushed the same for some five or six years, till himself and his two sons, Farquhar and Duncan Roy, were slain in the castle of Inverness. In a manuscript his- tory of the Roses of Kilravock, in possession of Dr Rose of In- verness, Hugh Rose of Kilravock, who is called a grandchild of the Mackintosh, is said to have aided in this destruction of Hallhill Castle, which is stated to have happened in or about 15 la* The * In the Charter- room of Kilravock is preserved a charge upon a decree of Council against **• Lauchlane M'Kintoshc of Dunachtane; Donle More M*Gilleoallum ; Per- qubsrd hissone ; Robert Stewart of Clavalge, Huchoun Ross of Kilravock ; Henry Dolnce of Contrav ; Walter Ross of Kinstary, and Donald Glasche M'Kintosche,** for the masterful destruction and downcastiug of the ** Houss of Petty, called Hal- hill," pertaining to *• Umqubilc Williame Ogilvy of Stratheme, Kny«., and now to John Ogilvy, his son and are." It narrates minutely the g'oods tpulzied by tho Mac- PETTIE. 385 circumstaDces which led to this violent proceeding on the part of the Mackintoshes are to be found detailed at length in Lesly's and Sir R. Gordon's histories. They record it as occurring in 15*26, and give twenty-four of the Ogilvies as the number killed. There are other discrepancies between the manuscript and the pub- lished histories. In May 1548, the Moyhall manuscript states that William, the fifteenth laird of Mackintosh, got a new liferent tack of Pettie and Brachly, from the Queen Regent. Likewise on May 15, 1546, being Saturday, Mackintosh, in revenge for what had been done by the Clan Ronald, at Abertarf, in July 1544, to the people of Pet- tie, did harry and spoil all the lands of Glengarry, and killed such of the people as made opposition. In 1548, Mackintosh having received Lachlan, the son of John Malcolmson, into favour, gave him possession and tenandry of Connage. In 1548, The Earl of Huntly had the Earldom of Moray be- stowed upon him : and about two years afterwards, in virtue of the powers with which he was entrusted, as Lieutenant-General in the north, he seized and put to death the chief of the Mackintoshes, and declared his lands to be forfeited. It was believed that Lach- lan Mackintosh, a near kinsman of the chief, had falsely accused or betrayed the chief to Huntly. At all events, the fact, that Lach- lan was made, by Huntly, joint sheriff-depute of Inverness, with Munro of Fowlis, and Chamberlain of the lands of Pettie, gave colour to the imputation. Determined not to let the murder of their chief go unrevenged, the clan Chattan entered the Castle of Petyn by stratagem, the last day of September 1551 ; apprehend- ed Lachlan, and slew him. (Moyhall MS.) Greater, commo- klntoshes and their party, and on the whole affords a good idea of the plenishing and modes of life of a Baron of Inverness-shire in the reign of James V. It is dated in 1616, the fourth year of that King's reign. We regret that we can find- room for only one or two extracts from this curious document* It enumerates inter aiia^ ** tua chieris carrit, price of y* pece xl s. — ane lang sadill of estland burd— tua thousand candellb of taldb, price of y* peee ourheid iii d.— -ane barrell of ^npowder price x L. —ane pare guardivianis, price iiii L. — tua hale stand of Domwick small napry — yuI hale stand of napry of Bertane clat^-xxiiii halbertis and axis— xii Jedburgh stavis— xv hand bollis (bows)— x dosane of arrois— xvi pare of splentis (greaves )— iiii jakkis— yiii sellets (helmets)— viii stele bonettis— Ix elnis of lynning clat, price ofy*eln xv! d. *— xxvi kirtillis and gomis for women, price of the piece xii s— viii pare of doubill solit schone, price of the pare ii s.- xii Murray gimalis— v punchionis of allacant, battaidy musoade, and caprik wine, price of y* tun xx L.-»xxxix bollis of mele, prico of y* boll ix 8. — ly bollis of malt, price of ye boll xiii s. and iiii d— ▼ bollis of thresohin quhete, price of ye boll xxviii s.- hekkis, spadis, hewin axis, cultar sokkis, and yr pertinend— sleddis with quhelis, harrois, saddills — ime bandis, snekkis and platis for durris and windois of costlie werk— tua bellesis, with all the grath pertcning to ano smyth— tua abbis with chesabillis, and all grath pertcning to the altar for saying of mess,** &c. &c. 386 INVERNESS-SHIRK. tion might have ensued, says Sir R. Gordon, but for the prudence of the Queen Regent, who recalled the act of forfeiture. The Mackintoshes seem never to have forgiven the Earl of Hunt- ly the murder of their chief. For, besides obeying with reluctance his commands, even when he was clothed with a royal commis- sion, they took every opportunity of wasting his estates. In 1561, Queen Mary conferred the Earldom of Moray on her brother, the Regent. Upon the murder of the bonny Earl of Moray at Donnybristle in 1591, by the Earl of Huntly, the Mackintoshes of Pettie, under the conduct of Angus of the Brazen Face, the intrepid head of the house of Kylachy, who lived at Culerney, (Pettie,) and whose impadenco and prowess still form the subject of a winter's evening tale, — ra- vaged Strathdee and Glenmuic, and slew, with others of local note, the old Baron of Bregley ; Huntly retaliated by wasting and spoil- ing the district of Pettie, and killing many of the Mackintoshes. Huntly had scarcely returned home and disbanded his army, when he was informed that the Mackintosh, 800 strong, had invaded Ach- indown and Cabrach. This outrage led to his making a second expedition into Pettie, in which he left traces of his vengeance, of a more terrible charac* ter than he did in the former. The Kilravock manuscript con6rms these accounts of Huntly's raids given us by Sir R. Gordon. " The Earl of Huntly, Allan M*Dhomhuil Duibh, (Lochiel), Macronald of Glengarry, designing an expedition against Pettie and the clan Chattan, give assurance under their hands to Hugh Rose, that himself, kin, and tenants, should be free from their ar- mies, March 18> 1592-a** Spalding and Sir R. Gordon contain an account of a com- motion of rather an alarming character, which had arisen in 1624, when the Earl of Moray brought north an army of his de- pendents from Doune, Menteith, and Balquidor, and began to dis- possess the Mackintoshes of lands which he had given them in Pettie. • * In the Inverness Courier, there appeared, some months ago, a statement of an- cient rentals. The proprietor of that journal informs me, that it was found by John Macqueen, Esq. among some old law papers. It is entitled ** The Book of the Va- lued Rents of the Sheriffdom of Inverness and Ross, as the same was appointed and rectiBcd by the Commissioners appointed by the Act of Convention of Estates.** Paroehin of Pettie and Breachlie. Jamet Erie of Moray, . . L.6478 5 John Ros of Spellasnaldick, . 300 John Macintosh of Lony, . 212 6 8 Angus Macqueene of Corribrock, . 80 Q. PETTIE. 387 It was on this occasion that Duncan Forbes, Provost of Inverness, the first of the CuUoden family, went to London with a remon- strance to the King against the oppressive proceedings of the Earl of Moray : and it might have been, both on account of the annoy- ance which they received from the Earl of Moray at this period, and as an acknowledgement of what they owed to the friendship of the provost and inhabitants of Inverness, that the Mackintoshes, in 1626, sold their estate of Culloden to Duncan Forbes. In the ge- nealogy of the family of Forbes by M. Lumsden, (reprinted with additions at Inverness in ) 819, by the late Major Duff of Muirtown,) we are informed, that, when this purchase took place, the old ^^ cas- tle was' built up but to the second story, and that this estate was afterwards much enlarged by the purchase of lands contiguous, made from Lord Moray, Lord Lovat, the town of Inverness, Rose of Altirlies, and Rose of Kilravock.* It is a curious fact, that it was never known which half of Altirlies belonged to either proprie- tor; and there is an elder in this parish, Mr David Eraser, late of Breachnish, who recollects that his father, and all the tenants, in paying their rent in kind, used to go with the one-half to Bal- nain, and with the other to Culloden House. Next in importance, in territorial extent, to the property of Culloden, was that of Flemington, at the period when the former Statistical Account was written. In the notice of the seventh laird of Kilravock, in the manuscript to which I have already re- ferred, it is said, *^ this Hucheon was the king's tenant on the lands of Flemington, Easter Brachlie and Hallhill, within the lord- ship of Pettie." A gentleman possessed of intimate knowledge of the antiquities of the province of Moray, writes to me, " there are symptoms of Flemish intercourse, and even of Flemish co- James Cuthbcrtof Aldtirlies, L.846 William Macintosh of Holme, . 142 6 8 William Roa of Kilrack, . . 255 Mr Macqueen coi\jectures the original to have been prepared early in the seven- teenth century. It is probably the Macintoshes mentioned here whom Lord Moray dispossessed. * The first trace we can find of the title to one-half of Altirlies, Breaknish, and fishings, is a charter under the Great Seal, dated 20th January, and sealed 8th Fe- bruary 1688, in favour of George Gumming, merchant-burgess of Inverness, and Robert Ron, name-son of the Provost of the burgh. On the death of James Gum- ming, (son of George) the succession opened to James Hay Gumming, his son, who on 10th September 1723, disponed the lands to Alexander Mackintosh of Termit. In 1723-25, he sold the lands and fishings for 7000 merks to John Forbes of GuUodcn, elder brother of the Lord President. Tlic lands of CuUemies, of which the Earl of Moray is superior, came into the possession of the family of Culloden in 1730 ; and about 1768, the other half of Altirlies, of which the superior is Fraser of Balnain, was purchased by John Forbes of Culloden, great grandfather of the present proprie- tor, Arthur Forbes, Esq. 388 INVEnNESS-SHIRE. Ionization in so many parts of our eastern coast, that it seems reasonable to take the name as it stands, and to suppose it to mark an early settlement of some enterprising or discontented colony from Flanders. Hugh, the seventh laird of Kilravock, had an as- sedation of these lands from King James IV., 6th July 1439, which narrates the previous possession by his family. Many subsequent leases are preserved in the Kilravock charter chest In July 1639, the Earl of Moray, having then acquired the lordship, changed the leasehold into a feu, and the lands of Flemington and part of Bracholy continued to be held in feu of the Moray family, }is far down as I have investigated." The manuscript already quot« ed, records that Flemington was obtained from the Earl of Moray for 3000 merks, since the Earl, being very kindly, gave them a good bargain. Shaw in his history of Moray, Part ii. Family of Kilravock, gives a minute account of the manner in which, by a de- cision of the House of Liords, 1787, Flemington became separated from the Kilravock estate. Since the last Statistical Account was written, Flemington has been sold. Flemington is now divided into two estates. The chief part, now called GollanBeld, has been purchased by the present proprietor, John Gollan, Esq. and the other part, perhaps about a sixth of the whole, by Major Fraser of Fort- George, who has retained the name of Flemington. Lford Cawdor is the only other proprietor in this parish. He possesses a narrow stripe of land descending from the ridge of Crov to the moss. It is called Calder Brachlaich, and from this name must have belonged to the family of Calder. There is no vestige of a record as to either the manner or the time in which it came into the possession of the Calders. The factor writes me, "^* the earliest charter I can find is of February 1662 ; but from it there seems no doubt that it was, long before, that time, in the fa- mily, and is understood to be comprehended in the more general description of the thanage and barony of Calder, now called Caw- dor." The local tradition is, that Calder Brachlaich went as pin money, or to grow lint to one of the Earl of Moray's daughters, who married a laird of Cawdor. This account is, we think, un- founded ; for there is no evidence that the Earl of Moray ever pos- sessed it It is not improbable that it was acquired by the Cald- ers, from Rose of Kilravock, and was at one time considerably larger. In the manuscript history of the seventh laird of Kilra- vock, it is stated that the Bishop (Andrew) and Hugh Rose, dis- puted their boundary ; and a story is told, which would imply that PETTIE. 389 Hugh was, by means of perjury, cheated out of part of his pro- perty by the Bishop. We close our civil history of the parish by noticing that, in the session records of November 1649, v^e have, on the 4th, this entry, <* That day the minbter made intimation to the elders to be prepared again the next day to give their oaths whether ilk ane of them did know of others anent the engagement and insurrection at Inverness. On the 5th, the elders underwritten being present, and being all sworn, deponed they knew nothing, but that they went ip Moray and Inverness, with my Lord of Moray, their maister." They were desired to appear before the Presbytery at Inverness. The Presbytery, we regret to say, has no records earlier than 1702. And we have had no opportunity of consulting those of the towo- council, to ascertain the cause or character of this insurrection, which is probably noticed rn the records of the burgh. In the continuation of Sir R. Gordon's history, among other instances of anarchy which followed the death of Charles I., this year, it is record- ed, that, in February, Sir Thomas Urquhart of Cromarty, Colonel U. Fraser, and others, assaulted and took the town of Inverness, expelled the garrison, razed and demolished the walls and fortifi- cations of the town, pretending that the Parliament had sent pri- vate conmfiissions to apprehend them; whereupon Lieutenant- Ge- neral D. Leslie was directed, with his forces, to apprehend them. The Kilravock manuscript says, ^^ the Mackenzies, Frasers, &c. take arms for the king, surprise and demolish the fortifications about Inverness ; but are defeated and dispersed by Colonel Ker and Major Strahan, at Balvouie. Our session records show, that the Earl of Moray was in the north at the end of the year, his pre- sence being probably required by the commotions which • had arisen ; but what part he took in the local affairs of this neighbour- hood, at that period, we have not been able to ascertain."" Eminent Characters. — The only individual of eminence con- nected with this parish by birth was Dr James Fraser, the liberal benefactor of King's College, Aberdeen. He was the son of Mr Alexander Fraser, minister of this parish from 1633 till 1683. By a note in Kennedy's History of Aberdeen, we learn that he enter- ed as a student in King's College, Aberdeen, about the time of the * The records of the Inverness kirk* session may throw light on this rising. We have -been told, that there are among the papers of Mr Robertson of Inches, letten written by the Earl of Moray, from Castlestewart to the Laird of Inches, llie date has not been told us. They might throw light on the events of this period, or of 1626, if examined. 390 INVERNESS«SHIKE. Restoration, in the Bfteenth year of his age; and, after complet- ing his education, took the degree of A. M. Having gone to England, he was entrusted with the care of several young men of quality, with whom he travelled on the continent. One of his pupils was the eldest son of the Earl of Berkley. He was afterwards appointed by Charles H. preceptor to the Duke of St Albans, and nominated Secretary of Chelsea Hospital. This office he held during the reign of James H., William and Mary, Queen Anne, and George I. He died in 1731, in the eighty-sixth year of his age. About the year 1725, he contributed about L.1400 Sterligg towards repairing the College, and furnishing additional books to the library. Besides making this liberal donation, he founded two bursaries, — one in philosophy, and another in theology, — a short time before his death. He left his library, partly to the presbytery of Inverness, of which his father was a member, and partly to the College, and gave the presentation to the bursaries to the magis- strates of Inverness, with concurrence of the presbytery. By the careful and skilful administration of the Professors of King's Col- lege, Dr Fraser's mortification has so greatly increased, that addi- tional bursaries have been established upon it. Lord President Forbes is more connected with the parish as a proprietor than by residence. He was born at Bunchrew in Kirkhill, which, for more than thirty years, was his favourite residence, and the place where he pursued his studies and wrote his works. It is greatly to be regretted, that no memoir deserv- ing of the name exists of a man to whom Sir James Mackintosh pays this noble testimony in his review of the CuUoden Papers :* *^ There are various lords and lairds who make but a shabby figure in this collection. But our great pride and consolation is in the ever-clear honour and open heart of him to whom they address themselves. For Duncan Forbes no descendant will ever have to blush or feel ashamed ; and the perusal of this book will prove that Scotland, even since she ceased to be a separate kingdom, has had at least one statesman whose principles were as pure as his understanding was enlightened ; and whose concern for his coun- try was not so much as suspected to be quickened by any regard to his own power or emoluments.'' We wish we could mention Sir James Mackintosh himself as a native of the parish. His parents and ancestors,' for many genera- tions, lived at Connage, although the family property was Kylochy, * Edinburgh Reyiew, PETTIE. 391 where his father resided when Sir James was born. The family burying-ground, in which his father was the last who was interred, was withiti the walls in the east end of the old church of Pettie, on the foundations of which the present one has been erected. Besides the eminent names which we have mentioned, we are en- titled to notice also that of James Clark, Esq., who died at Naples about the close of the last century. He had evinced a genius for painting when a youth, and, by the aid of contributions from the lo- cal gentry, and some assistance from relatives, he was enabled to visit and reside for some time in Italy. In token of his attachment to his native country, and of his obligations to those who had befriended him, he bequeathed ^* to the Directors and Governor of the new es- tablished Academy in Inverness a picture of the Holy Family, Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and St John, by Sassoferato, to be placed in the hall of the Academy," where the picture is now to be seen. The records of the Inverness Academy contain the extract from his will, and the