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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I I He N S t \S^ THE NEW STATISTI CAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. XIV. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. VOL. XJV, INVELVKSS-ROSS AND CROMARTY. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. INVERNESS. { CONTENTS. nr > ALVIE, • • PAGE 81 ARDERSIRR, • • • 462 BARRAT, • , • 19& BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF, 51 BRACADALE, • • 295 CROMDALB, • • • 432 CROT AND DALCROSS, AAA. DAVIOT AND DUNLICHITY, 513 DORBS, 373 DUIRINISH, • • • 322 GLENELO, 128 HARRIS, • • • 155 INVERNESS, 1 KILMALIB, • • • 117 KILMONIVAIG, 503 KILMORACK, * • • 361 KILMUIR, 237 KILTARLITY, « • • 483 KINGUSSIE, 63 KIRKRILL, • • • 459 LAOOAN, 417 MOY AND DALAROSSIE, • 97 NORTH UIST, • • 159 PETTIE, • • 375 PORTREE, • • • 218 SLEAT, • • 317 SMALL ISLES, • • • 145 8NIZ0RT, • 287 SOUTH UIST, • • • 182 STRATH, • • 300 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON, 36 J J J .J..,. .* • '•■ y-v. i » • «. * ^ \ .v. .*>•« *' •^W«^ ^4^ 4.^ .* PARISH OF INVERNESS. PRESBYTERY OF INVERNESS, SYNOD OF MORAY, THE REV. ALEXANDER ROSE, D. D. ) ALEXANDER CLARK, J- MINISTERS. ♦ ROBERT MACPHERSON, J I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — From the earliest periods, this parish seems to have borne its present name, which is Celtic, and is supposed to refer to the celebrated Fall of Foyers, which discharges its streams into Loch Ness, (Loch *(m Ess^ i. e, the Lake of the Cataract,) and thence through the River Ness to the sea. Extent^ Sfc, — The parish stretches along the coast of the Moray Frith, and its prolongation the Beauly Frith. Its length, from north-east to south-west, is 14 miles; and its average breadth about 2^. It is bounded on the north-east by the friths ; on the west by the parishes of Kirkhill, Kiltarlity, and Urquhart ; south west by Loch Ness and the parish of Dores ; south and south-east by the parishes of Daviot and Croy; and on the east by the parish of Petty. Topographical Appearances. — The parish of Inverness consists chiefly of the eastmost portion of the great Caledonian valley, or " Great Glen of Albin," as it lies between the basin of the Moray Frith, which is the prolongation of that opening, and the waters of Loch Ness. It is also flanked on each side by the terminating chains of mountains which bound the Great Glen, and which con- stitute the only rocky or hilly parts of the parish. The surface of the valley, which is smooth and but little elevated above the pre- sent level of the sea, except where diversified by the alluvial hil- locks and terraces afterwards described, contains, of course, the richest and best cultivated lands in the parish. The mountains of the Great Glen, as they approach the east • Drawn up by the Rev. Dr Rose and George Anderson, Esq. F. R. S. E., In- verness. INVERNESS. A 2 INVERNESS-SHIRE. coast, gradually decrease in height and asperity ; and those on the southern side especially, as they enter this parish, subside into a smooth elevated ridge about 400 feet high, which ultimately tapers off, and loses itself among the flat sandstone plains of Nairnshire. On the opposite side, the granitic mountains which occur at the north-eastern extremity of Loch Ness are succeeded by an ex- tremely rough but picturesque group of sandstone and conglome- rate hills, which reach to the adjoining frith, and end in the well- known vitrified site of Craig Phadric, lying immediately to the west of the town of Inverness, and distinguished by its beautiful tabu- lar summit, and a succession of bold rocky escarpments along its acclivities. ^ The environs of Inverness are well cultivated, and adorned with a profusion of woods and young plantations, and the distant view is in all directions (except towards the east, where the eye is greet- ed by the waters of the Moray Frith,) closed in with screens of mountains greatly diversified in height and outline. The coast-line of this parish takes several extensive bends or sweeps ; and the adjoining flats are throughout highly cultivated, presenting a considerable breadth of corn land, with the exception of a portion westward of the village of Clachnaherry, where a rocky cliff* rises abruptly from the shore, leaving but a narrow slip of ground between it and the sea. Two large bays lie to the east and west of the town of Inverness,* and between them the River Ness empties itself on the right of the narrow strait called Kessock Ferry, which separates Inverness from Ross-shire, and the Moray Frith from the inner basin of Loch Beauly, or the Beauly Frith. Meteorology. — The climate of this parish, which is much influ- enced by the nature of its soil and position, is on the whole dry and salubrious. The low^r parts of the parish are warm, being well sheltered by trees; the heights are cold and exposed, but they have been much improved of late by drainage and planting. As the moun- tains, which lie to the south and west, intercept much of the va- pour which rises from the Atlantic Ocean, and bestows a peculiarly damp character on the climate of the west coast, so in like man- ner the inland position of this parish, with respect to the German Ocean, protects it from suffering so much as some of the adjoin- ing districts, by the raw and boisterous easterly winds which pre- vail in this country during spring, and the first months of summer. The west wind is here the most frequent and warmest, and yields INVERNESS. 3 the greatest quantity of moisture ; but the number of rainy days at this end of the Great Glen is about sixty less than at Fort- Wil- liam on the opposite shore. Rain is here speedily absorbed by the light gravelly seil, which is another cause of the comparative dry- ness of the climate. The great bodies of fresh water, however, which occupy so large a portion of the surface of Inverness-shire, are continually sending up immense quantities of mist and watery va- pour from their surface, and as these become immediately con- densed and attracted to the sides and summits of the mountains, Inverness in consequence presents peculiar advantages to the stu- dent of atmospheric phenomena. In spring especially, great volumes of mist arise from Loch Ness, (which is itself about 24 miles long, nearly 2 miles broad, and in some places 115 fathoms deep,) and are hurried by the winds to*the eastern sea, whence they descend in fertile showers on the neighbouring lands. After a snow storm, these vapoury columns, (particularly about the com- mencement of a thaw,) assume the most fantastic forms, and as their warmth gradually removes the white covering of the moun- tains, long parallel streaks and Unes of black appear on their sides and summits, indicating the course and relative temperatures of the prevailing currents of wind. During winter, our sea coast becomes the haunt of great num- bers of wild geese, ducks, herons, and cormorants, and occasionally of a few wild swans, and foreign birds. A few years ago the com- mon plover was known to nestle in the lower parts of the district, but now it is rarely seen but in the highest grounds. Hydrography.^-Mosi of the observations under this head appli- cable to the parish of Inverness are already embraced in the fore- going details. It is only necessary to add, that there are many perennial springs of pure water in the district, but few medicinal or otherwise distinguished. The Ness is the only river which flows through the parish. Its course from its parent lake to the sea is about 8 miles long ; its channel gravelly, and about 60 yards wide, with a uniform inclination, giving to the river a gentle but equable flow, and hence it affords peculiar advantages to the erection of mills and manufactures. Its average depth is in summer about 3 feet, in winter 6 or 7 feet The water of the River Ness possesses a purgative quality on persons unaccustomed to drink it. This pro- perty appears to be owing to decomposed vegetable matter, and to result from Confervae and Mosses, which its high temperature keeps 4 INVL'RNESS'SHIUE. continual!}' growing in its channel, and not to the influence of the tide, as many have supposed. Some of the burns, such as those of Inches, Holm, Dochfour, and Aberiachan, display small but beautiful waterfalls, associated with hazel copses and woodland scenery ; but none of them are so large as to merit particular description. Geology and Mineralogy. — The greater portion of the Highlands of Scotland consists of rocks of the oldest or primary class, that is, of such as have a highly crystalline structure, and are entirely de- void of organic remains or petrifactions. Where stratified or re- gularly disposed, the beds or strata usually maintain a course from south-west to north-east, are vertical or highly inclined to the horizon, but without any constant dip or position. Parallel to the prevailing direction of the strata, the mountains generally run in lines from south-west to north-east, with great longitudinal valleys or straths between them, into which the waters of the ocean have penetrated, forming large bays and friths ; or the surfaces of the valleys are occupied by a succession of fresh water lakes united to- gether, and with the sea, by whiding streams and rivulets. I^esser valleys, called glens and passes, traverse the mountain chains, or stretch along their rocky sides ; and it is generally among these that the most picturesque scenery, and most beautiful and romantic castles and seats of the Highland, gentry, and hamlets of their te- nants, are to be seen. Towards the south-western boundary of the Highlands, mica, chlorite, and clay slates prevail ; in the north, and especially in In- verness-shire, and the counties beyond it, gneiss is the most abun- dant rock ; and throughout and far above it, enormous masses of granite and of the oldest trap or porphyritic rocks shoot up, — such as the Grampians, and the alps of Glencoe and Ben- Nevis. On this great nucleus of primary rock, deposits of secondary strata, distinguished chiefly by their fragmentary structure and the presence of organic remains, both animal and vegetable, and con- sisting for the most part of sandstones, shales and limestDnes, re- pose. They are found on both sides of the island, and at its northern extremity. The secondary deposit on the easteni coast ^eems at one time to have filled the great basin of the Moray Frith, and to have extended far out into the German Ocean. Its re- mains may still be traced from the mouth of the River Spey in a continuous line along the coast to the westward and northward, ex- INVEUNESS. 5 tending inland from 1 to 6 miles, and in the Great Glen even 18 miles from the sea; and abutting against the primary mountains, where the formation terminates in highly inclined strata, or thick shapeless masses of a coarse semi-crystalline breccia or conglome^ rate. In Caithness, this secondary deposit developes itself in great horizontal sheets of rock, uninterrupted by primitive masses, and constitutes almost the whole of that champaign county, and the greater portion of the adjoining Orkneys. As already noticed, this secondary formation consists chiefly of sandstones and limestones, which are probably of several different geological eras. Thus a ridge of coarse conglomerate is usu- ally found on its inner margin next the primitive masses, from which undulating ridges and plains of softer rock extend towards the sea. But on the coast, and in the centre of the deposit, other masses of conglomerate sometimes appear ; and between them and the interior conglomerates, layers of a dark and soft argillaceous schist, abounding with bituminous matter, and occasionally with scales and impressions of extinct ^shes, also interpose in some places. The latter, in general, lie on soft red sandstone. Hence the question arises, are both the conglomerate ridges of the same sera, and the argillaceous schists of the same formation with the sandstones ; or are the former here the substitutes of the true coal deposits, and the latter of the old red sandstone of Werner ? So far as has yet been ascertained, it would appear, that the con- glomerate zone next the primary rocks may be classed as of the age of the old red sandstone ; but, on the other hand, some of the exterior conglomerate ridges and sandstone beds reclining on them .belong to the new red or variegated sandstone deposit. On the latter, also, as a base, members of the lias and oolite formations have been deposited, of which a few beds still remain, as at iEthie and Shandwick in Ross-shire, Brora in Sutherland, and on the Morayshire coast eastward of Burgh-head. They appear to have constituted the superior beds of a great basin of rock stretching across the Moray Frith, but which has been almost entirely wash- ed away by the encroachments of the sea. At Brora, these upper strata further display an unusual connection of coal with the lias formation ; and in the same vicinity also they exhibit a very inte- resting example of the intrusion of granite among secondary de- posits, and of the consequent fracture and dislocation of the latter. The foregoing details are necessary as an introduction to the short notice that now remains to be made of the rocks co\xv^^'^vw^ ^ INVERNESS-SHIRE. the hills in the vicinity of Inverness, — as, without a knowledge of the general structure of the country, it would be exceedingly diffi- cult for an observer to understand the true position of the rocky constituents of this district. The oldest sandstone deposit above-mentioned stretches along the ridge of the Leys, on the south side of this parish, towards Loch Ness, where it terminates near the Fall of Foyers on ledges of a gray sienitic granite. Between the softer sandstone and the , granite, a high rugged chain of conglomerate hills is interposed, which the reader will find particularly described in the account of the parish of Dores. On the opposite side of the Great Glen the sandstones do not penetrate so far inland. They may be traced, however, from the village of Clachnaherry, at the entrance of the Caledonian Canal, to the bum of Dochnalurg, or Dochgarroch, (about eight miles south-west from the town of Inverness,) where they are met by primary gneiss and granite. The sandstone in this line is soft, of a dark red colour, and it dips towards the south-east, or the centre of the adjoining valley. It is caped by great masses of coarse conglomerate, cut into beautiful rounded or rather tabular sum- mits, with bold rocky sides ; and a minute inspection of these de- monstrates that they have been greatly shattered and uplifted from their original positions by the neighbouring granite rocks, which, in fact, in one place (close by Clachnaherry pier) appear in a cliflF immediately beneath them. There the sandstone is super- imposed in thin strata, occasionally vertical in their position, but generally greatly contorted and waved like curved gneiss, and hardened where in immediate contact with the granite. * In the ridge of the Leys the sandstone strata have not been similarly affected. The layers, however, are considerably inclined to the horizon, and dip towards the north-east, a direction opposite to that of the beds on the other side of the valley. Indeed, it is ge- nerally the case that the rocks on the several sides of the Moray, Beauly, and Cromarty Friths dip in different directions, as if bearing towards a central plain, from which they have been upheav- ed. The sandstone of the Leys has many of its beds of a light blue colour, with an intermixture of micaceous scales and limestone. It is quarried and used as a building stone in Inverness. Prismatic calcareous spar, steatite, and heavy spar, abound in this stone. In • The sandstone at this point contains very beautiful specimens of a mineral rare io ScotUnd^foliated Celettine. INVERNESS. 7 several places the fundamental rock is covered with layers of the above-mentioned dark-coloured argillaceous schist, above which we again meet with newer sandstone strata. So far as seen in this parish^ one would be apt to conclude, that the schist was only an alternating bed with the sandstone, and of the same era with it ; but, on comparing it with the same deposits in the more open districts of Ross and Caithness, the schist swells out to an enormous extent, separating the sandstones by a wide in- terval, thereby giving countenance to the supposition, that the three are of different geological ages. The superior sandstone also pos- sesses more of the soft and spotted features of the new red or va- riegated formation of that rock than the lower beds; but data seem yet awanting to enable us to pronounce positively as to their diffe- rence or identity. In regard to the schist, its distinguishing characters are its abound- ing with bituminous matter minutely disseminated throughout it, and which is sometimes found in lumps or veins of compact bitu- men, and its occasionally containing, especially in Caithness, im- pressions of fishes. It has a fetid smell, and white streak, and has often been mistaken for the true bituminous shale of the coal formation, in consequence of which an unfortunate attempt in search t)f coal was once made in this parish. As yet no organic remains have been found in the rocks of this district, no metallic ores of any value, and no trap or porphyry rocks. The sandstone strata appear to be free of fissures and veins, and when the latter do occur, they are generally granitic Alluvial deposits. — But the most interesting geological appear- ances in this parish and the adjoining districts are unquestionably their sand and gravel beds. The neighbouring mountains are co- vered almost to their summits with deep gravelly deposits; the Great Glen has been partially filled up by them, and the necks or portions of land separating its various lakes are formed of the same materials. Hence the presence of the sea or of some other great body of water over the dry land is perhaps more unequivocally de- monstrated, and that on a larger scale, in this quarter than in any other place in Scotland. The elevation of the surface .of Loch Ness above the sea is only 46 feet; the intervening space, a distance of about eight miles, being entirely composed of gravel, which extends to an unknown depth ; and the River Ness flows through this deposit over a chan- nel slightly inclined towards the coast. A gravel terrace rises (to;^ 8 INVERNESS-SHIRE. its southern bank about 90 feet in height, which may be traced al- most in a direct line from Loch Ness to the town of Inverness, be- hind which it turns to the eastward, and stretches along the edge of the Moray Frith to Campbelltown, and thence through Nairn and Morayshires, nearly to the estuary of the river Spey. Westward of Inverness, a terrace bank of the same elevation encircles Loch Beauly, and traces of it may be seen along the Ross-shire coast as far down as Fortrose and Rosemarkie. The breadth of the terrace at Inverness is about a mile and a-half, and its elevation corresponds very nearly with the summit level of the Great Glen, which is situated at Laggan, between the lakes Oich and Lochy. Marine remains have been discovered in various places at the base of this bank, which is about ten feet above the pre- sent high water-mark, and its summit perhaps indicates the height at which the sea at one time stood throughout the whole basin of the Moray Frith. On the west bank of the. River Ness this regularly formed terrace bank does not exist There the gravelly materials were more con- fusedly thrown together, and, m fact, from the end of Loch Doch- four, (the lower basin of Loch Ness,) aperies of undulating knolls, composed of sand and gravel, proceeds, which terminate in the beautifully shaped ridge of Tor a'Bhean, which is nearly 300 feef in height, and lies about a mile to the south-west of Inverness. Between this ridge and Craig Phadrich on the north, a wide bay or opening appears to have been formed by currents of water with gravelly deposits; but that the cavity now existing was at one time filled up, seems clear from the occurrence of a broad shelf or ter- race lying near its upper edge, behind the farm-houses of Kinmy- lies and Charlestown, at an elevation of 330 feet above the sea. The house of Dunain stands on a similar terrace to the west- ward, but which is not quite so high as that just alluded to. Detached from all other eminences, but in front of Tor a'Bhean, and in the line where the Great Glen meets the recess or bay just described, stands the insulated and very conspicuous hill of Tom- nahurich, which is as interesting from its singular position and re- gular form, as from the important occurrences in the history of the parish with which its name is connected. It was in ancient days used both as a watch or ward hill, and a place for dispensing justice ; and, being the great gathering hill of the fairies in the north, its broad and level summit and smooth green sides waving with hare- INVERNESS. 9 bell, broom, and braken, afforded them ample space and seclusion for their elvish orgies. All the alluvial deposits now enumerated consist of rounded frag- ments of rocks, chiefly from the neighbouring primary district, and varying in size from the minutest particles of sand to that of large boulders several feet in circumference. They are sometimes dis- posed in alternate layers of fine and coarse sand and gravel, but most frequently in thick horizontal beds of gravel, having the boul- der stones confusedly mixed throughout them. In some instances the layers repose on one another in beautifully curved lines, show- ing that they were in motion when first brought in contact The direction also of the currents from which they were deposited ap- pears generally to have been from south-west to north-east, as the writer has recognized among the gravel beds at Inverness fragments of the peculiar and well known porphyries of Glencoe and Ben- Nevis, and of the very hard semi-crystalline conglomerate occur- ring near the Fall of Foyers. * It is remarkable that no peculiar sim])Ie minerals or gems have hitherto been found in these gravel beds, nor any organic remains or petrifactions, or even recent marine deposits. No human bones, nor bones of deer or other animals, have been met with at any con- siderable depth beneath the surface ; and in the excavations for the Caledonian Canal, the foreign substances found in the gravel were a few roots and stems of very large oak trees, some of which measured 24 feet in circumference. From these facts, we appear to be warranted in assigning a very high antiquity to the gravel beds of this neighbourhood, and to the belief that they were deposited from fresh, and not from salt water. Soil. — Finally, as might be expected from the foregoing geolo- gical details, the superior soil of this parish is light and sandy, with a subsoil of hard gravel. In the vicinity of the town of Inverness, however, it is enriched with a fine loam of clay deposited from the river, or cast up by the waters of the adjoining frith. The collec- tions of water which anciently covered the district appear also to have left a light clayish sediment even on the higher grounds, which has greatly improved their otherwise gritty and unproductive soil. Botany. — The writer has remarked that the indigenous Flora of * The conclusion here alluded to is further supported by the fact, that a peculiar flesh-coloured granite, composing some of the hills between the rivers Findhorn and Nairn, is found in small masses strewed over all the plains of Morayshire, but no- where to the westward of CuUoden ; and that an uncommon variety of gneiss, of a very large grain, occurring in the central districts of lloss-shire, has been carried to the shores of the Dornoch Frith, but not to the western sea. 10 INVERNESS-SHIRE. this parish are generally about two weeks later of coming into blooin than the same plants are about Edinburgh, and about an equal period earlier than in the north of Caithness and Orkney. Our woods and meadows yield much the same species as the neighbourhood of our Scottish metropolis, with some rather pecu- liar ones, such as Prunus padusy Paris quadrifolia, Linruea bo- realis^ Pyrola rotundifolia^ media^ minor and secundcj together with OrchidicB in great number and variety ; — while the herbage of the upper plains contains very many truly Alpine plants The woods and rocks abound with mosses, fungi, and lichens ; but the algae and other marine productions are here few and stunted, owing to the inland position of the coast and the freshness of the water, occasioned by the influx of the rivers Ness and Beauly. The following is a list of the herbaceous plants found within the wooded region about Loch Ness, which to the botanist will be sufficiently characteristic of the warmth and fertility of our soil and climate. Pinus sylvestris^ Betula alba, Taxus baccata, Cratcegus oxyacantha, Fraj:inus excelsior, Popultis tremula, Quercus robur. Ilex aquifolia, Ulmus campestris, Coryhis avellana, Prunus padus, Lonicera periclymenum. Viburnum opidus, Rosa canina, tomen- tosa, villosa et spinosissima ; Rubus idcsus, svberectus, saxatilis ; ChamcBmoms; Asperula odorata, Paris quadrifolia, Circea lute* tiana et alpina ; Fumaria claviculata, Vicia sylvatica, Rumex dyginiis, Sanicula Europcea, Geranium sylvaticum, lucidum, et san- ffuineum ; Saxifraya hypnoides et aizoides ; Rhodiola rosea, Alche- milla alpina. Digitalis purpurea et alba ; Arbutus uva ursi, Vao cinium tdiginosum etvitis idea ; Pyrola rotundifolia,^ media, minor et secunda ; Trientalis Europea, Epilobium angustifolium, HcUfe- naria viridis, albida, et bifolia ; Aquilegia vulgaris, II. — Civil History. During the reign of the early Scottish monarchs, subsequent to the union of the Picts and Scots, their power was but little known or respected in the Highlands; and it was not till the reign of James I., (a. d. 1424,) that the districts north of the Grampians were subjected to any thing like due obedience to kingly or national laws. Under the exclusive dominion of separate independent Celtic maormors and Saxon and Norman feudal warriors, but little is known of the condition or history of the Highland tribes, except from brief records preserved chiefly by ecclesiastics, of their in- roads upon the more settled inhabitants of the low countries, or * I1ic edges of Kingsmills dam, near Inverness, are the l)est habitat for this rare p)aut, Pyrola rolundi/biia. INVERNESS. 11 their encounters with the piratical Gothic hordes of Norway and Denmark, who occupied the greater portion of the Hebrides and the Orkney and Shetland Isles, with the northern parts of the main coasts of Scotland. Hence but little light could now be cast, even did the present work admit of such a disquisition, on the ancient state of this or of any of the adjoining parishes, were it not that the existence, at a very early period, of the Royal burgh of Inverness, ever since regarded as the capital of the High- lands, attracts the eye to the fortunes of its inhabitants"; and through their transactions a faint picture may be drawn, not only of their own condition, but of that also of the surrounding districts. Burgh of Inverness, — From the researches of the antiquarian writers, mentioned in the subjoined note,* it has been shewn that Inverness, if not existing in the time of the Roman invasions of Britain, was soon thereafter the seat of the Pictish monarchy, and was of some importance during the sixth century, when it was vi- sited by St Columba, the first great Christian missionary to the Highlands. Its local advantages early marked it out as a fit site for one of those large strongholds, by means of which the nobles and sovereigns were enabled to retain their sway over extensive dis- tricts, and hence we find that Macbeth, the Celtic maormor, or great Lord of Ross and Moray, had a castle here, which was pro- bably visited by the " good King Duncan," on account, as Shak- speare says, "of its pleasant seat ; the air nimbly and sweetly re- commending itself unto his gentle senses," but which, on the cruel murder of that monarch, was razed to the ground by his son, Mal- colm III. or Ceanmore, who erected a new fortress on a rising * See the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland, folio edition, passim ; Adamnan*8 Life of St Columba ; Arclueologia Scotica, or the Transactions of the Society of the Anti- quaries of Scotland ; J. Anderson's History of the Family of Fraser, and his Prize Essay on the State of the Highlands, published by the Northern Institution for the Promotion of Science and Literature ; Birt's Letters from the Highlands, (chiefly writ- ten from the old Castle of Inverness,) in 1725-26, 5tli edition, edited by Jameson, Loudon, 1822 ; Carey's Craig Phadric, and other poems published (with notes) at Inverness 161 1, 8vo. ; Chalmers' Caledonia, 3 vols. 1817; Cordiner's Antiquitit^s of the North of Scotland, London, 1780 : Culloden Papers, a collection respecting the Rebellions of 1715 and 1745, edited by the late H. R. Duff, Esq. of Muirtown, in the parish of Inverness ; Sir Robert Gordon's Genealogical History of the Earldom of Sutherland, folio, Edinburgh, 1813 ; Grose's Antiquities of Scotland ; Dr Johnson's Tour to the Hebrides; Keith's Catalogue of the Scottish Bishops; Dr MacCulloch's Letters to Sir Walter Scott on Uie Highlands, 4 vols. 8vo ; Bishop Forbes's Ja- cobite Memoirs, edited by Mr Robert Chambers, 8vo. 1834 ; ** Memorabilia of In- verness," published originally in the Inverness Courier, now out of print, though very valuable and entertaining ; Pitcairn's Ancient Criminal Trials ; Rev. Lachlan Shaw's History of the Province of Moray, second edition, by Mr Grant of Elgin, 4to ; Mr Eraser Tytler's History of Scotland so far as published, and Guide to. the High- lands and Islands of Scotland, by Messrs G. and P. Anderson of Inverness, in which a whole chapter treats of the ancient and modern state of the burgh of Inverness, Murray, London, 1834. 12 INVERNESS-SHIRE. bank, a little to the westward of the former, and which continued ever after to be held by some of the more powerful chieftains of the neighbourhood for the king, as a royal house or garrison, down to the year 1746, when it was blown up by the troops of Prince Charles Edward Stuart. It was under the protection of this second castle (the eastern outer screen or rampart of which is still partly standing) that the/ houses of the burgh were gradually congregated, consisting, with the exception of a few larger buildings belonging to the neigh- bouring gentry, even at no very remote period, for the most part, of cottages thatched with heather and straw, and which, being oc- cupied by a colony of foreign traders, (chiefly Flemish,) were con- stantly exposed to depredations and frequent burnings, by the marauding clans of the west coast, as well as to the severe exac- tions of the governors of their own castle. It was, however, the wise and uniform policy of the sovereigns to encourage the growth of such mercantile communities, as well for the general prosperity of the country in regard to commerce, as for a check on the exor- bitant power of the nobles, and as abounding in loyal subjects fa- vourable to personal liberty, industry, and peace. Hence, besides being frequently favoured with the presence of royalty, whether for the purposes of amusement, dispensing justice, or overawing and suppressing the rebellions of the northern chiefs, Inverness was early endowed with many privileges and immunities. It was erect- ed into a royal burgh by David I., and was styled by him one of the " loca capitalia per totum regnum." William the Lion grant- ed four charters to it, which were confirmed by succeeding mo- narchs ; and James III. conferred a new grant on it, which recites at length eight previous charters. The great charter of the town, however, was conferred by James VI. in the year 1591. These curious documents are still entire and legible, and are kept among the town's archives. Exclusive of the recent improvements in the town and parish, to be afterwards slightly noticed, no event of very great importance to either has occurred since the battle of Cullodenon the 16th April 1746; but, prior to that date, the whole neighbourhood was fre- quently disturbed by bloody clan conflicts and sackings of the town, the particulars of which will be found detailed in the works above referred to, and which are now worthy of remembrance only as indicative of the present happier condition of the people under the regular and impartial administration of equal laws. INVERNESS. 13 Heritors, — The parish contains about seven or eight principal heritors, whose estates in it yield each from L. 1000 to L. 2000 a year, while there are about 25 proprietors with smaller rentals. Registers. — The records of the proceedings of the kirk-session extend back to August 1602, between which year and 1655 they were irregularly kept; and afterwards down to 1673 no minutes vjiave been preserved. Since then, they are pretty regular, and registers of marriages and baptisms are kept separately, and lat- terly with great care and accuracy. Antiquities. — Our limits prevent us from doing little more than barely enumerating the objects of antiquity in this parish, and this is the less to be regretted, as they are fully described in the more recent works to which we have already referred. Commencing on the west side of the parish are seen, 1*^, the rocky eminences above the village of Clachnaharry (signifying the watchman's stone,) and on which in ancient times the magistrates of Inverness had a guard stationed to give notice of any hostile approach from Ross- shire or Strathglass. This spot is further marked by a large column erected by the late H. R. Duff, Esq. of Muirtown, com- memorative of a desperate battle fought here (a. d. 1333,) be- tween the Clanchattan and the Munroes of Fowlis. 2rf, The summit of the hill near the base of which these rocks occur, is crowned with the celebrated vitrified fortress of Craig Phadric, which is double walled, the ramparts exhibiting heaps of boulder stones strongly cemented together to the depth of three or four feet by fire, and which commands within sight of it a chain of si- milarly vitrified structures, about ten in number, extending in every direction into the central districts of the county, and by means of which signals by beacon fires were in ancient times carried across the island to the opposite coast. * 3(f, Below it is the detached hill, already alluded to, called Tomnahurich, or the Watchman's Hill, some of the fields adjoining being called Balliefearie, or the Watch- man's Town, and which, besides being thus a " ward hill," was also celebrated in the olden time, according to local belief, as the fa- vourite and chief resort in the north of the tiny race of fairies, and was further used by grosser mortals as a great moat, or gathering hill, on various occasions of public importance. The magistrates of Inverness used also in ancient times to patronise horse-races run round its base. 4^A, Close by, and a little to tRe west of, this cu- * The height of Craig Phadric has been often greatly overstated as exceeding 1 100 feet. Its barometrical elevation above the sea is only 4d5 feet. 14 INVERNESS-SHIRE. rious mount, is a high gravelly ridge called Tor-a'-Bhean, from its containing the cairn or sepulchre, according to some, of an early monk called Bean or Benjamin, but more likely of Donald Bane, an Hebridean chief, and leader of a body of islesmen, who, in 1187, encountered a party from the Castle of Inverness, headed by Dun- can Mackintosh, son of the governor, who, as well as his principal opponent, is said to have perished in the conflict. Part of this ridge is encircled with ditches and ramparts, as if it formed an ancient hill-fort, and at its base, along which the Caledonian Canal has been carried, a massive silver chain was discovered in the year 1808, consisting of thirty-three circular double links, neatly chan-* nelled round with a prominent astragal, and terminating at either end in two rings larger than the others, which were about two in- ches in diameter, the whole weighing 104 ounces, and extending to eighteen inches in length. This relic, now, we believe, in the possession of the Antiquarian Society in Edinburgh, was probably an ornjiment or ensign of office of the island chieftain. The estate of Bught, of which Tor-a'-Bhean is a part, is called in Gaelic Kil a Bhean or Bean's burying-ground. 5 having in front of it the Exchange, with the ancient Town Cross and Clach-na-cuddeny or " Stone of the Tubs," the palladium of the burgh, and on which the predecessors of the present race of maid-servants were wont in ancient days to rest their water-pails in passing to and from the river; — the Jail, built in 1791, to which is attached a remarkably handsome spire 150 feet high ; — the Aca- INVERNESS. 17 demy for the education of youth, endowed by Royal charter in 1793;-7-Raining's charity school ; — the oU grammar school or hos- pital, a bequest to the community in 1668 by Provost Alexander Dunbar, which is now used as a library, lady's school, and for several other public purposes. Near the top of Church Street is a high plain building, erected by subscription, and called the Northern Meeting Rooms, which contains an elegant ball-room and dining-room. The area of Cromwell's citadel is now occupied by a large hemp manu- factory, which has existed there since the year 1 765. There is also a woollen one in the town, and the parish contains three breweries and one distillery, with several water-mills, and one wind-mill, all of which are built of stone and lime. Neat villas, with gardens attached to them, are yearly increasing about the town. III. — Population. The population of the town and parish in the year 1 791 was 7980 1801, 8732 1811, 10,7.50 1821, 12,264 1831, 14,324 In the last census, 9663 belonged to the town ; and of the whole population about 529 families are chiefly employed in agriculture ; 1015 families in trade; and 1766 are not included in either of these classes. The number of inhabited houses in the town and parish is about 2130. With the burghs of Forres, Nairn, and Fortrose, Inverness returns one Member to Parliament; and its registered constituency the first season after the passing of the Reform Act amounted to 466; in 1834 it amounted to 489, — the constituency within the old royalty, entitled to vote for the election of burgh councillors, being at the last election 408. The gradual increase of population shown above exceeds a little the general ratio of increase throughout the kingdom, in conse- quence of Inverness having been resorted to by a great number of labourers during the formation of the Caledonian Canal, and now by the poor tenants and cottagers removing to it from the country. The average number of baptisms for the last ten years is 360 ; of deaths about 300 (though in 1832 and 1834, the ravages of cho- lera no doubt increased that ratio), and the marriages amount to about 106 a year. None of the nobility, except Lady Saltoun, reside in this parish ; but, in consequence of the increase of building in and about Inver- ness, the cheapness of living, and some of the country residences being occasionally to let, a considerable resort of strangers, gene- INVERNESS. B 18 INVERNESS-SHlRE. uerally of medium incomes, has taken place to this district of late years. We have been unable to procure data for ascertaining the pro- portions of bachelors, widowers, and unmarried females, in this densely peopled parish. Among the labouring classes marriage is almost a matter of pecuniary convenience ; for a man in narrow cir- cumstances finds it more economical to marry than to keep a ser- vant, and, if a widower with daughters, it is seldom the case that they choose to live long with him, as they are better fed and cloth- ed by going into service, or marrying for themselves, so that second and even third marriages by the same individual are not uncom- mon. The average number of children in each family is about 4, and, from the emigration of males abroad in quest of occupa- tions, and their fondness for a military life, there is, and it is thought there always has been, a considerable excess of females resident in this parish. Indeed, from Dr Cleland's population re- ports for Scotland, it would appear that when the census of 1821 was taken, the proportion o[ females above males was higher in In- verness than in any other town in the country, excepting Greenock. At that time there were in Inverness, 7001 females, and 5263 males, and if we suppose that, under the age of twenty, the sexes were equal, which the county returns prove them on the whole to have been, there would be then in the burgh under twenty years of age, 3500 fe- males, and 3500 males; leaving above twenty years of age, 3500 fe- males, and 1 763 males. Now, if one-third of the males above twenty be held as unmarried, which is a rather large proportion, and two- thirds to be married, (that is 588 of the former class, and 1175 males of the latter,) their will remain 2325 females above the age of twenty unmarried, to 588 males above that age unmarried, — a proportion nearly of 4 to 1 ! A similar result will be found appli- cable both to Greenock and Inverness, if the previous returns for 1801 and 1811 be similarly scrutinized. Language^ Customs^ Sfc. — In the remoter parts of the parish, and by some of the poorertlasses in town, the Gaelic language is exclu- sively spoken, but it is fast wearing out, and by the rising generation English is almost universally preferred, especially in the town of In- verness, where many of them are wholly ignorant of Gaelic There is nothing remarkable in the features or bodily strength or exercises of the inhabitants ; and, although the games of foot-ball, shintie, throwing the stone, hammer, and bowls, were formerly common among the lower orders, no amusements of the sort are now prac- INVERNESS. 19 tised, except among boys and apprentices on Christmas and New- year's day, — the sober realities and industrious habits of the present age having seemingly banished from the thoughts of the peasantry the pastimes of their forefathers. Pauperism has undoubtedly increased in the town of Inverness of late years; and a recent survey, occasioned by the distress arising from cholera, demonstrated#that there are about 800 per- sons (many of them having families) in Inverness in extremely in- digent circumstances. The habits of the lower orders in regard to cleanliness and in- dustry are daily improving, as are also the comforts of their cot- tages and household furnishings. On Sundays they all appear well dressed ; in town, more tastefully, and, but for the present cheapness bf manufactures, in some instances it might be thought rather expensively. The upper classes enjoy all the comforts and elegancies of life as fully as their equals in any part of the king- dom to whose manners their own are now assimilated, — the purity and correctness of their language, in particular, having been re- marked since the residence of Cromwell's troops in Inverness, as superior, and but little affected by the common broad dialect of Scotland. Labourers and farm-servants generally live on potatoes with milk, oat and barley-meal prepared in various ways, — to which the wealthier tradesmen are enabled to add fish and butcher-ineat. The general rate of ploughmen and farm-servants' wages is L. 8 in money, and 6 bolls of meal, with liberty to plant as much ground with potatoes as they can manure ; and, in common, female field work is reckoned about two-thirds of the value of a man's labour. Superior servants or grieves have higher wages, and perhaps grass and foddering for a cow, according to the extent of the farms under their charge. All classes are increasing in knowledge and intelli- gence ; and, while the upper are well educated, the inferior orders are pressing rapidly on them in all kinds of intellectual attainment; and although the increase of population in Ihe town has here, as elsewhere, been accompanied with a corresponding increase of vice, yet the moral character of the parishioners generally, as compared with that of other places, is high, — their attendance on church being exemplary and regular. There are generally about six illegitimate births in the parish yearly. 20 INVERNESS-SHIRE. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — In the western and higher parts of the parish, in the districts of Aberiachan and Caiplich, and the heights of Doch- four and Dunain, cultivation has been sparingly and in patches carried up to an elevation of perhaps 800 feet above the sea. In the vale of the Ness, the large and regularly fenced fields are little elevated above the bed of \\m river; and behind them, on the southern side, the terraced bank already noticed rises to the height of 90 feet, and stretches back to the base of the sandstone ridge of the Leys, with a flat or gently undulating surface, from one to one and a-half or two miles in breadth. The subsoil is universally a porous gravely the superior soil being generally sharp or sandy ; and hence, from the absence in many parts of the pa- rish of a due proportion of clay, the cultivated land, though warm and early, can scarcely be denominated rich, or favourable to the growth of large forest trees requiring deep loams. The number of acres under cultivation is supposed to be from 8000 to 9000; waste perhaps 3000; improvable about 1000, (there being scarcely any undivided ground) ; while the rest of the sur- face is under heath, or beautifully and usefully covered with woods of Scotch fir, and thriving plantations of larch, ash, elm, beech, and oak. Rent of Land, — The average rent of cultivated ground is from L. 1 to L. 2, 10s. per acre, except in the close vicinity of the town, where it fetches from L. 5 to L. 7 an acre. There is little or no ground set for grazing. Rate of Wages^ Sfc. — The rate of wages is from Is. to 2s. a- day to labourers, and from Is. 6d. to 2s. and 3s. for artisans. The prices of implements of husbandry and household furniture vary much, according to the kinds and qualities ; but generally, a good cart costs from L. 8 to L. 9 ; a wooden plough L. 2 ; but the plough most in use is formed of malleable iron-work, and costs from L. 4 to L. 5. The chairs and tables used by labourers are of common fir deals, and very plain, the former costing from 2s. to 6s. or 8s. ; but there is a regular gradation upwards till we find ar- ticles as finished and fashionable as are made in Edinburgh or Lon- don. The price of a rood of mason work is L. 1, 16s. ; and when scaffolding is required L. 2 or L. 2, 2s., or L. 8, including mate- rials per rood of ruble work ; and of carpenter work for roofing and sarking, 6d. to 8d. per yard; flooring and joisting, lOd. to Is. per yard ; pannelling, 6d. to 8d. per foot, and so on as to the other INVERNESS. 21 parts of a building. About 100 families are supported by sawing timber. Price of Provisions^ Sfc, — Good beef sells in Inverness at from4d. to 5d. per imperial lb. ; mutton, from 3d. to 5d. ; veal, 2id. to 5d. ; pork, of which no great quantity is exposed, on account of the de- mand for cured pork for export and shipping, 3 Jd. to 4id. There is an abundant supply of excellent haddocks, which sell at from three to six for 6d.; cod, from Id. to Is. a piece, according to the size and quantity ; superior skate, 3d. to Is. each ; herrings vary much in price, as boats only occasionally leave the fishery ground to dispose of this fish so far up the frith, — they sell at from ten to fifty for6d.; salmon are as high as Is. to Is. 6d. per lb., — the salmon fishers being under an engagement to send almost all that may be caught to the London market; grilse sell for 5d. Fowls, Is. 6d. to 2s. a pair; chickens half-price; ducks Is. 4d. to 2s. a-pair; geese and turkeys from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. each. Potatoes gene- rally 2s. per cwt. Shop goods sell pretty much as in other pro- vincial towns. House rents for the better classes are moderate, averaging from L. 15 to L.50, and shops the same. The wages of house-maids are L. 1, 10s. to L. 3 per half year — average L. 2. There are generally several country houses to let in the neigh- bourhood of Inverness at from L. 30 to L. 200 a-year, furnished and unfurnished, and with garden ground, office-houses, and grass parks, and other accommodations. Live-stock. — The breed of cattle common in this parish is a mixed one of the old Highland, Morayshire, and Ayrshire kinds, and considerable attention is paid to their improvement, both for the dairy and butcher. A five years' rotation of crop- ping is generally observed, and the system of husbandry followed is of the most improved description. Within the last twenty years a great extent of waste land has been drained and reclaimed, and much ground planted ; but none of any consequence has been irrigated or embanked. Husbandry. — The general duration of leases is for nineteen years, though some do not exceed fourteen, or even seven years ; and now, instead of allowing meliorations for improvements in buildings^ proprietors are beginning to erect office -houses themselves or their farms, charging the tenants with a yearly per centage on the outlay. Most of the heritors farm portions of their own estates, which are provided with excellent accommodations, — superior, of course, to the more plain but substantial squares of offices posses^ 22 INVERNESS-SHIRE. sed by the tenants. The fields are generally enclosed either with stone and mortar walls, or stone dikes without cement, or with hedges and rows of forest trees. Quarries. — Fresh water shell marl is found and dug out for manure in several parts of the district, especially on the estate of Essich ; and that of Nesscastle, in the parish of Dores, adjoining the other, abounds in this substance ; but there are no mines in the parish, and but a small number of quarries wrought, the red and gray sandstones of this neighbourhood being much inferior in compactness, hardness, and beauty to those brought by sea from Munlochy and Redcastle in Ross-shire, and to the white and yel- low freestone of Covesea, in the shire of Elgin. Fishings, — Salmon is the only fish caught within the bounds of the parish, the sea shore being unproductive, except occasionally that a few small herrings and cuddies^ or coal-fish, are got. For- merly the salmon fisheries in the Ness were extremely productive, and in ancient times their fish were known as luxuries in many ci- ties of the continent. Persons are still alive who recollect having seen eighty salmon taken at one cast of the net ; but, owing to causes not well understood, the value of the fishery has greatly decreased within the last thirty or forty years, so that what then fetched a yearly rent of L. 1 100 is now let for L. 370 ; and, we understand, the tacksmen are calling for a further reduction of the sums conditioned to be paid by them. Produce. — In the absence of authentic data, we have consulted agriculturalists, who regard the rental of the parish as about L. 20,000, and the whole yearly produce ought hence to be some- where about equal to L. 60,000. Taking the rotation to be five years, consisting of two white crops, one green, and two hay crops, the result will be that two-fifths of the produce are corn, and the remainder green or soft ; and, supposing both of nearly equal value, we have about L. 24,000 worth of com, and L. 36,000 of green crops. The annual produce of gardens and of the thinnings of plantations is inconsiderable. Manufactures. — Formerly a good deal of linen yarn and worsted thread was spun for the supply of home consumpt in this parish, but this is almost wholly superseded by the produce of the great manufacturing establishments of the south. Two hemp manufac- tories, for the making principally of coal and cotton bagging, ex- isted for a considerable time in Inverness, one of which was dis- continued some years ago. The subsisting establishment, occu- INVERNESS. 23 pying the area of Cromweirs fortress, employs about 110 men, 150 women, and 20 boys and girls, who work from ten to twelve hours a day, and earn, the men, from 4s. to 10s.; the women, from 2s. to 3s. 6d. and the children from Is. 6d. to 2s. a-week. For- merly, nearly double the number of persons just stated were em- ployed. These work people are in general healthy ; some of them have been long lived, and, in point of morals, they are not in the least inferior to the rest of the population in the town and parish. The hemp employed in this factory is imported from the Bal- tic, and is manufactured into cloth for bags, sacking, and tarpau- lin, chiefly for the London market, and the East and West Indies. In the woollen manufactory, for the weaving of coarse clothing and Highland plaids and tartan, there are employed from 20 to 25 persons, of different ages, from ten years and upwards, who earn from 3s. to 15s. a-week. The proprietor of it has also a carding-mill for the preparation and spinning of wool ; and there are also in the town and parish three tan- works, supporting a small )i umber of artisans. Navigation and Commerce. — Inverness in ancient times posses- sed a large share of the scanty commerce of Scotland. Boethius, who wrote full 300 years ago, states, that in ages long before " a concourse of German merchants annually resorted to the town for the purposes of trade," bringing with them the manufactures of their own nation, and taking away in return quantities of skins and other products of the Highlands ; but that, owing to the frequent burnings and plunderings to which the town had been subjected, its prosperity had been greatly impaired. Buchanan confirms this statement, and it would appear that, even for some years subse- quent to the final union of Scotland with England, the merchants of Inverness carried on their import trade with the ports of France and Holland, transferring it to that of London, only as convenience and the cheapness of British manufactures drew their attention to that great mart of commerce. Wine and ale were formerly more abundantly used in the Highlands than spirituous liquors; and, until the general introduction of tea, the trade in malting was a considerable one in Inverness, as in most of the northern burghs. Some of the old and large malt kilns and granaries used for it are still in existence. Weavers and glovers formed two of the incor- porated trades in the old set of the burgh, and these were for- merly numerous and rather influential bodies. In regard to trade, Inverness is now the centre of the Custom- 24 INVERNESS-SHIRE. house district, which extends from the mouth of the Spey to the Dornoch Frith on the east coast, and from Assynt Point to Ard- namurchan on the west. The tonnage of all the shipping belong- ing to the district is about 7200 tons, and the number of vessels 150 : the port of Inverness possessing about one-half of the ves- sels and nearly two-thirds of the tonnage. The west coasts of Ross-shire and Inverness-shire, with the Isle of Skye, possess about 1000 additional tons of shipping, and about 36 vessels. In- verness has six vessels, of about 130 tons burthen, regularly trad- ing with London, of which one sails from and to London every eighth day : with Leith it has three traders, and with Aberdeen two. Ship-building has recently been commenced here by one or two enterprising individuals with great spirit. A striking altera- tion has of late taken place in the trade in grain : within fifteen years, about 8000 to 10,000 bolls of oatmeal used to be imported to Inverness ; while now, from 4000 to 5000 bolls of oats are ex- ported from its piers. From Easter Ross and the vicinity of In- verness and Beauly, from 30,000 to 40,000 quarters of wheat are annually shipped, and large quantities of grain are exported from Caithness. About 100 cargoes of mixed goods are delivered in the course of the year at the port^ of the Moray Frith, lying be- tween Speymouth and the Dornoch Frith, from London, Leith, and Aberdeen. These supply the greater part of the counties to which the ports belong. The total coasting imports in this dis- trict are supposed to be about 60,000, and foreign imports about 1000 tons, and the coasting exports to be about 70,000 tons, con- sisting of wood, wool, grain, and hemp cloth. The foreign an- nual imports into Inverness consist of from 400 to 600 tons of hemp, and three or four cargoes of timber and Archangel tar. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — Inverness is the only market-town in the parish, and since the date of the last report, it has increased considerably in the style and number of its buildings, as well as of its popula- tion. Besides a more efficient system of police, and due attention to cleanliness, — during the year 1831, a great iniprovement in the paving of the streets was commenced. The whole have been causewayed anew with granite and hard sandstone, or quartz rock, from the banks of Loch Ness, and the side pavements laid with Caithness flag, while common sewers have been constructed under- neath the streets. These highly useful measures were effected by means of an assessment of 6d. per pound on rents, — the total ex- INVERNESS. 25 pense exceeding L. 6000. The town is exceedingly well lighted with coal gas, and supplied with water in pipes from the river. The original cost of the gas works, which are very complete, in- cluding the expense of forming the company, and procuring an act of Pariiament, was L. 8757 ; that of the water-wheel for raising the water from the river, and pipes, L. 4872. Certain parts of the pro- fits have been laid aside to pay the interest of borrowed money, and to form a contingent fund in case of unforeseen demands ; but since the year 1828 the company has paid dividends to the share- holders, which have gradually increased from 1^ to 4^ per cent. Subscriptions for the formation of this company were commenced in 1825. Villages. — The only villages in the parish are those of Clach- naberry, at the " Watchman's Stone," above-mentioned, about a mile to the west of the town, containing about 300 inhabitants, chiefly fishers and boat-builders, — and Culcabock village, one mile to the south-east of Inverness, which is occupied by about 100 la- bourers and masons. Coaches and Public Conveyances — Besides a four-horse daily mail-coach to Aberdeen on the one hand, and to Dingwall, Tain, and Thm-so on the other, two daily coaches proceed from Inver- ness on the coast road to Elgin and Aberdeen ; one twice a-week, and in certain seasons daily, to Perth by the great Highland road, and Diligences occasionally ply in summer between Inverness, Strathpeffer, and Cromarty, through the adjoining district of Ross- shire, called the Black Isle; and to these means of conveyance are to be added the steam and sailing vessels above described, and carriers by land in almost every direction. Caledonian Canal, — In this part of the statistics' of the parish, it would be improper to omit a short sketch of the history and di- mensions of the Caledonian Canal, which passes through the centre of the parish and Great Glen of Scotland, and the beneficial effects of which on the general commerce of the country, and the local improvement of this district, have scarcely as yet fully developed themselves. The subject of the Caledonian Canal, and connected with it va- rious other extensive improvements in the Highlands of Scotland, having been brought under the attention of Government, a prepa- ratory survey and report of the whole was made by the late Mr Telford, by command of the Lords Commissioners of the Trea- sury, in the autumn of 1802, and in September of the followvw^ 26 INVERNESS-SHlRE. year, the cutting of the canal was partially commenced ; but it was not until the year 1805 that the works were put in full operation. The north-eastern portion of the canal, as far as Fort- Augustus, was opened for navigation in the summer of 1818, a regular pas- sage between Inverness and Fort Augustus was established by means of steam-boats in 1820, and on the 23d and 24th October 1822, the first voyage was made from sea to sea. Since this period it has been regularly navigated, with scarcely any interruption, al- though not completed to the full extent of the original design, which contemplated a depth of 20 feet water. The depth at pre- sent afforded is 15 feet, — a further deepening of the summit level being the principal work required to attain the former depth, as almost the whole of the buildings and banks are constructed of the full dimensions to receive it The total expense of construction has been about one million of pounds Sterling, to which is to be added the expense of maintenance, since the opening of the navigation. The latter has hitherto exceeded the produce of the tonnage rates, which are extremely moderate. The canal extends about eight miles from the tide lock at Clachnaharry, to the north-east end of Loch Ness, being all in the parish of Inverness. It ascends in this distance a height of about 46 feet. The whole length of the canal from sea to sea is 62 miles, of which 40 miles pass through natural lakes (Loch Ness, Loch Oich, and Loch Lochy,) and there are 22 miles of cutting. From the singularly uniform direction of these lakes, and of the valley which they partially cover, the whole length of the canal when extended on a map, measures only four miles longer than a straight line drawn from one extremity to the other. There are twenty-eight locks on the line, fourteen ascend- ing to, and fourteen descending from, the summit level in Loch Oich, which is about 95 feet above ordinary high water at Inver- ness. The dimensions of the locks are 170 feet in length by 40 feet in width ; and the whole of the other works are on a scale of proportional magnitude. The present rate of tonnage duty levied on sailing-vessels or steam-boats, laden or unladen, passing along the canal in either direction, is one farthing per ton per mile, there be- ing no dues chargeable upon goods of any description. The pro- duce of these extremely low rates has averaged form L. 2000 to L. 3000 per annum ; and the aggregate tonnage passing through, inclusive of the steam-boats, may be rated at about 30,000 tons. Immediately on the opening of the canal, a regular communica- INVERNESS. 27 tion was established, and has since been maintained between In- verness, Glasgow, and the west coast, generally by means of steam- boats, and with all parts of the United Kingdom, for the ordinary carrying trade by means of sailing-vessels, which import all the pro- ducts of the south to the Highlands, and carry away timber, wool, grain, and the produce of the northern fisheries. For all these purposes the Canal presents important facilities, and would na doubt be much more frequented than it is, were steam tug boats established to insure at all times a speedy passage through the lakes, — the delay and uncertainty at present from adverse winds being sometimes considerable* The communication between Inverness and Liverpool through this canal, and directly with London by the German Ocean, is now about to be completed by steamersof a large size ; while with Aberdeen and Leith it has been open by steam for several years back. A company, indeed, has been formed, who intend, in course of next summer (1835,) to run a steam ship of 240 horse power between Inverness and London, touching at all the ports of the Moray Frith; and a powerful ves- sel already plies to Liverpool. The chief effect of the canal, so far as regards the town of Inverness, has hitherto been the com- mencement and gradual formation of a direct intercourse with the great western marts of Glasgow and Liverpool, and through them with the manufacturing districts with which these cities are so close- ly connected. Roads, — The principal roads which radiate from Inverness and intersect the parish in different directions, are under the manage- ment of the Parliamentary Commissioners for Highland roads and bridges, — a body appointed for opening up the communication by land, much about the same time that, under similar management, the Caledonian Canal was projected. They form portions, 1*^, of the great south road by Fort-George to Elgin and Aberdeen; 2rf, of the Highland road through Badenoch and across the sum- mit of the country to Perth ; 3rf, of the Old Military road along the south side of Loch Ness to Fort- Augustus and Fort- William ; 4^A, of the road along the north side of Loch Ness by Urquhart to Glenmoriston, Glenshiel, and Skye ; bth^ of the great north road by Beauly to Dingwall and Tain, and 6/A, the short piece of road to Kessock Ferry, which connects Inverness with the neighbour- ing parts of Ross-shire. The whole of these lines were either Military roads, improved and widened under the direction of the Commissioners, or originally constructed by them, with the aidoC 28 INVERNKSS-SHIRE. contributions from the county proprietors ; and they are maintain- ed under a system of the most efficient repair by the same means which effected their formation. The expense is defrayed in about equal proportions by Government aid and county assessment, the latter being of late years considerably relieved by the produce of tolls, which have been established on several of the roads. The other roads contained in the parish, which are of subordinate im- portance, are under the management of the district proprietors, as trustees, and are maintained by general assessment originally im- posed by virtue of certain local statutes, which were consolidated in a new act of Parliament passed 29th May 1 830. The expense of re- pairs on the parliamentary roads in the neighbourhood of Inverness, where the traffic is considerable, averages from L. 10 to L. 15 per mile. Bridges, — There are two bridges across the River Ness. One of stone with seven ribbed arches, erected in 1685 by contribu- tions throughout the kingdom, at a cost of L. 1300 ; and one of wood, finished in 1808, from public and private subscriptions, and which cost L. 4000. A pontage is levied at both bridges from strangers. Two small but beautifully wooded islands in the Ness, a mile above the town, are now in course of being connected with the opposite banks by airy chain suspension bridges, the interior being laid out in walks ; and when this improvement is completed, (one of the bridges has been in existence for many years, and funds have been recently collected for the other,) Inverness can boast of a set of public promenades almost unequalled for extent, variety, and beauty of scenery, by those of any town in the kingdom. Harbours, — Three harbours have been erected near the mouth of the river at different times, the lowest of which admits vessels of 250 tons burthen; while large ships have exellent anchorage ground in Kessock Roads, or can receive and deliver ofoods at the Caledo- nian Canal wharfs within a mile of the town. Churches and Ecclesiastical Affairs, — Both the parish churches are in the town. The High Church, in which English alone is preached, was built in 1772, and is a large plain building attached to an old square tower, said to have been erected by Oliver Crom- well, and is seated for 1800 persons. It is, however, found too small for the increasing congregation, and the erection of another or additional parish church is contemplated. The Gaelic church, which is properly the parish church, and in which Gaelic alone is preached, was erected in 1794, and contains about 1200 sitters, INVERNESS. 29 the poor having access to it and the other building gratis. It is provided with an old and elegantly carved oak pulpit. The other congregations in Inverness are, of Episcopalians about 150 mem- bers ; Seceders, 100 ; Independents,* including a few Baptists, 50 ; Methodists, 50 ; Roman Catholics, 230. The ministers of some of these congregations are paid by their flocks, and others are understood to be partly assisted by societies in the south. In 1798, a Chapel of Ease was erected in connection with the Esta- blished church, capable of containing 1100 sitters, the minister of which is supported by his own congregation alone. The Established clergy are three in number, the patronage to the first and third livings being vested in the Crown, — that to the second in Mr Eraser of Lovat, who also claims a vice-presentation of the first charge. None of the ministers have manses, but the first and second re- ceive a very trifling yearly sum, being the interest of the sums for which the old manses with the gardens attached to them were sold many years ago as ruinous, the Court of Session having decided, after a long and expensive litigation, that the heritors were not obliged to rebuild them. They also have each about four acres of glebe land, which they set for gardens, and on parts of which the tenants have erected many substantial houses. These yield at present each about L. 80 a year. The stipends of the first and second charges are 19 chalders of grain, with L. 10 for commu- nion elements ; and the stipend of the third minister, which is partly paid from the holders of the old Bishop of Moray's rents, and partly by Parliamentary grant, is L. 200, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. A parish catechist is employed, who is paid from the collections at the church doors, the rest of which, after paying beadles, &c. are appropriated to the poor, and for whom also there are four special quarterly collections in the year. The number of communicants in the two parish churches varies from 800 to 900, and in the chapel of ease from 300 to 350. Education and Societies. — The local Bible Society here for se- veral years collected an annual fund from L. 100 to L. 140, but its meetings have been discontinued for some time. It has sup- plied, on two occasions, every family in the parish with Bibles. Inverness Education Society. — In 1818, a society was institut- ed under the name of the " Society for Educating the Poor in the * The occasional sitters in these Seceding, Independent, and Methodist chapels augment considerably the usual attendance, the numbers stated being of those in full communion with each congregation. The numbers of Episcopalians and Roman Catholics given, include men, women, and children. 30 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Highlands," which erected a central or model school in Inverness of a large size, and which is generally attended by about 300 scho- lars. It has been of much use to the poor of the town, especially of the suburb on the Green of Muirtown, and the society's opera- tions extend beyond it to the establishment of schools in the more remote and thinly peopled parts of the Highlands, twelve of which sort it supports at present ; and towards the maintenance of schools already existing, and supported partly by local funds, by giving a small aid or allowance to the teacher. In these aid schools, which have been of incalculable use in encouraging the efforts of the people, the society has under its protection upwards of 1000 chil- dren during the winter half of each year. The sums expended by this society for the education of the poor, from its institution in 1818 to the 30th September 1834, amount to L. 8023. Raining* s School^ 6fc. — In the year 1747, Mr John Raining of Norwich bequeathed L. 1000 for building and endowing a school in any part of the Highlands the General Assembly should ap- point. The Assembly fixed on Inverness, and soon afterwards de- volved the management of the school on the Society for Propagat- ing Christian Knowledge, transferring the residue of the money to that body. At present it is conducted, as it has been for many years, by two excellent teachers, (having under their charge about 250 pupils,) on salaries of L. 48 and L. 40 a-year besides their lodgings and gardens. The society last mentioned support two other schools in the landward part of the parish, allowing to the teachers salaries of L. 17 and L. 15 a-year. The suburb of In- verness called Merkinch has also been supplied by subscription with a large public school for the poor, which is attended by from 200 to 300 scholars. There is also a school at Dochgarroch, sup- ported by the Committee of the General Assembly ; and both in the town and country there are many private elementary schools, (besides an infant school opened in the year 1832, and which is generally attended by about 90 children,) in some of which the classics and the principles of geography, mathematics, and naviga- tion are taught There are also several ladies' day and boarding schools in Inverness ; and the Sabbath evening schools for religious instruction in the burgh are attended by about 450 children, there being likewise a few of the same description in the landward part of the parish. In the year 1792, an academy was opened in Inverness, for the education of the families of the upper classes in the Highlands ge- INVERNESS. 31 nerally, as well as of the town and neighbourhood, the funds for that purpose having been collected by subscriptions at home and abroad ; and its directors, consisting of the magistrates of Inver- ness, the sheriff of the county, the moderator of the presbytery of Inverness, with five commissioners of supply, to be named annual- ly by their own body, subscribers of L. 50, and the heirs of sub- scribers to the extent of L. 100,. or upwards, being incorporated into a body corporate and politic, by royal charter. The old gram- mar school of Inverness has merged into this institution, to which the burgh transferred its annual grant for the support of the for- mer, and it is generally provided with from four to six teachers, includ- ing a rector, whose salary, besides a free house and garden, amounts to L. 90, and the other teachers' salaries from L. 30 to L. 40 a- year. All the branches of a good commercial and classical edu- cation are taught in this seminary, with the elements of mathema- tics and philosophy, there being a prospect also of the natural sciences being added to the branches taught, in consequence of a society established in the year 1825, and denominated the Northern Institution for the Promotion of Science and Literature, having made over to the academy directors their valuable museum of books, an- tiquities, and objects of natural history. For some years this aca- demy was the only seminary of the kind to the north of Aberdeen ; but, in consequence chiefly of similar institutions being opened in many of the neighbouring towns, the numbers attending it have somewhat decreased, the average amount of pupils being formerly upwards of 300, while at present it is only attended by from 200 to 250 scholars. Inverness, thus already more amply provided than many other towns with the means of education and improvement, has been further enriched by a munificent bequest of L. 10,000, 3 per cent, consols, left by the late Rev. Dr Bell, the ingenious author of the Madras system of education, and committed by him to the charge of the magistrates of Inverness, who contemplate, we understand, erecting another large charity school, and relieving the Education Society of the burthen of supporting their central or model school on the Green of Muirtown. Libraries^ §*c. — Besides its scientific and literary institution above-mentioned,- Inverness has also a mechanics institution, a va- luable parochial library, under the direction of the kirk-session, se- veral subscription and circulating libraries, two public reading- rooms, several printing-presses, two weekly newspapers, and four banking-offices. 32 INVERNESS-SHIRE. By an estimate of the state of education in this parish made in 1826, and published in the " Moral Statistics" of the Inverness Society for Educating the Poor in the Highlands, it appeared that at that time there were in this parish of persons from eight to twenty years of age who could not read, 1007, and above twenty years of age unable to read 1444. It is believed these numbers are now greatly reduced. The total number of scholars attending school in the parish in the course of a vear is about 1800. Infirmary. — In the year 1804, the large and handsome Infir- mary, already mentioned, was opened here, with a Lunatic Asylum attached to it, for the use of the northern counties of Scotland. Its accommodations are extensive and elegant : the rooms and wards are large, well- ventilated, and clean, and, from the recent addition of hot and cold baths, and several new rooms, and the entire se- paration of the maniac department from the rest of the establish- ment, this institution is surpassed by none of the same description in Scotland. The buildings were completed by subscription pro- cured chiefly through the exertions of the magistrates of Inverness, and more especially of William Inglis, Esq., many years provost of the town, and a man of uncommon activity, enterprise, and zeal for the public good. The institution is now under the manage- ment of the body just mentioned, joined to the Established minis- ters of the parish ; the moderator of the presbytery ; the sheriff of Inverness-shire; five commissioners of supply chosen annually; donors of L. 50, and upwards ; annual subscribers of L. 5 ; certain medical gentlemen ; and five persons annually elected at a gene- ral meeting of the whole managers. This hospital has a small in- vestment in money, but is chiefly dependent for support on private subscriptions and parochial collections throughout the Highlands. The annual expenditure was at one time about L. 700. Now it is considerably below that sum, and, while it would appear that the cost of each patient until his cure or dismissal was at first on an average L.4, 14s. l|d., it has since the year 1820 been reduced to the average of L. 2, 19s. 3d., and in some years did not exceed the very small sum of L. 2 ; — an expenditure clearly establishing the beneficial effects of union, economy, and co-operation, in af- fording relief to the diseased poor. From the institution of the hospital in 1804 up to the 20th December 1833, the number of patients (including those in the town of Inverness, who received advice and medicines in their own houses, and manaics,) amounted INVERNESS. 33 to 9247. A house-surgeon, a miitron, besides nurses and keepers, and the male and female-servants, constantly reside in the Infirmary ; and the medical managers in Inverness give their attendance gratis by rotation. Dispensary. — In 1832 a Dispensary was opened by subscription on the Green of Muirtown, for bestowing medicines gratuitously to the sick poor, and it has proved of much use, especially during the visitations of cholera. Friendly Societies. — There are at present nine Friendly Societies in Inverness, the average rates of contribution to which are from is. 6d. to 2s. per. quarter, with 10s. to 15s. of entry money, and a small extra contribution on account of the expense of a member's funeral. When ill a member receives from 3s. to 5s. a week ; but if he is disabled from work for more than six weeks he then gets a quarterly allowance proportioned to the state of the funds, which it is believed are not at present increasing. When prudently and honestly managed these societies have certainly done good. Savings 5awA.— There is no savings bank receiving deposits from the industrious poor at present, — a circumstance much to be regretted. It was discontinued on the death of the individual who latterly conducted it. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The Sunday collections for the poor average in the year amount to L. 100; four special quarterly collections at L. 42, to L. 1 68 ; rents of kirk-session lands, and in^ terest of money left by charitable persons for the parochial poor, L. 192 ; total, L. 460 ; out of which, besides providing for burials, orphans, and other contingencies, the kirk-session furnish pecuniary assistance to about 310 paupers, by stated weekly or quarterly al- lowances, varying from 6d. a week to L. 1 and L. 2 a year.* The magistrates of the town have also several charitable mor- tifications at their disposal, the interests of which are laid out for the poor. The lesser charities amount to L. 717. A fund left by the late Mr Jonathan Anderson of Glasgow, for the support of decayed householders, is now worth L. 3845. A German of the pame of Klien, in 1803, bequeathed a sum for the same purpose, of L. lOOO; and Captain William Mackintosh of Farr, and of the Hin- dostan East Indiaman, left a fund for the education of boys of the name of Mackintosh, of the families of Farr, Holm, Dalmigavy, and * Distributions of coals and meal are also occasionally made in quantities not ex- ceeding a shilling's worth to each applicant, the number so assisted being from 700 to 800 persons. For about fifteen of the last twenty years, from 200 to 400 poor have received broth from a soup kitchen supported by public subscription. INVERNESS. C 34 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Flichity, at the Inverness academy, now worth about L. 28,218. The annual products of these charities vary according as they are invested in the town's funds or Government securities. There is no compulsory assessment for the support of the poor ; and we trust there will not, as it would probably increase pauper- ism, by encouraging the habits which lead to it. Prisons. — The ancient jail of Inverness consisted only of a single damp dingy vault, in one of the arches of the stone bridge, and which (subsequently used as a mad-house) was only closed up about , fifteen years ago. It was succeeded by another prison in Bridge Street, which, from the notices of it in the burgh's records, must also have been a most unhealthy and disagreeable place of confine- ment. Tlie present jail was erected in 1791, and cost L. 1800, the spire having cost about L. 1600 more. Besides prisoners for debt, all those charged with crimes from the northern counties are sent here previous to their trial before the circuit courts of Jus- ticiary, which sit at Inverness twice a-year. Although a great im- provement at the time of its erection, this prison is now found to be too small and very inconvenient, there being no proper classi- fication of delinquents, while there is no open court or yard for them to walk in, nor can any manual employment be required of them at present. There is no bridewell or poors-house in this pa- rish. By the subsisting law the expense of the jail's support falls on the magistrates of the burgh, who are also answerable for the safe custody of the prisoners ; but the heritors of the northern counties contemplate the erection of a new jail on the Castlehill, on a large scale, and under a more modern system of prison dis- cipline. Unless subjected to some manual labour or solitary con- finement, it seems questionable whether the superior accommoda- tions of modern prisons do not render access to them, in many cases, a privilege rather than a punishment. Fairs. — ^"Anciently all classes of the community depended much for the supply of necessaries on the public fairs, held in such towns as Inverness, and which were in consequence attended by great crowds, the merchants' booths being kept open for weeks together. At present there are four great fairs held in the year at Inverness for the sale of dairy produce, and of manufactured goods, and coarse household stuffs, made by the Highland women in the neigh«> bourhood ; but the establishment of shops throughout the country has greatly diminished their importance, and the magistrates of the town, to avoid the rioting and intemperance which sometimes INVERNESS. 35 encroached on the quiet of Sunday, have lately curtailed the mar- ket time of each fair from the forenoon of Wednesday to the after- noon of Friday. The show of horses and cattle at the Inverness fairs is now much less than it used to be previous to the establish- ment of several cattle trysts in the neighbourhood. In the month of July, however, in each year, a great wool-market is held in this town, at which the principal Highland sheep-farmers, from all the northern counties, are wont to meet the south of Scotland and English wool-staplers and agents, and at which sales to the extent at least of 100,000 stones of wool are annually effected, besides numerous exchanges among the sellers and drovers from the south of their various kinds and ages of sheep, which exceed in amount 100,000 carcases a-year. The prices fixed at this fair generally regulate those of all the other markets in the country, as well as the subsequent sales of the farmers who are not present at it ; but these prices fluctuate so frequently, from causes little understood, that we do not conceive it necessary to quote them ; and, indeed, the prices of past years are not found to influence those of the next season. Besides the markets now alluded to, every Tuesday and Friday are ordinary market days in Inverness for butcher-meat, eggs, poultry, and farm and garden produce ; and on a certain day every half year there is a fair on the Exchange of Inverness for the hiring of farm-servants. /nn«.— Inverness has been long celebrated for the excellency of its inns — the Caledonian hotel especially being inferior to none in Scotland. Besides the accommodation of parlours, and large sit- ting-rooms, and a spacious ball-room, Mr Wilson, the keeper of the hotel, can make down upwards of eighty beds, and insure private lodgings in town to such strangers as require them. His coach and posting establishment is also great The number of licensed inns and alehouses is 52 in the burgh, and 19 in the landward portions of the parish.. Fuel. — Ck)als from Sunderland and Newcastle, and a small quan- tity of Scotch coals from the coal basin of the Forth, constitute the principal fuel in Inverness. Wood is not extensively used, but peats, employed principally for kindling coal-fires, are brought to town from the upland districts, and sell from Is. to Is. 6d. the small cart load. Coals sell from lOd. to Is. 6d. the barrel of two heaped imperial bushels. January 1835. UNITED PARISHES OF i URQUHART AND GLE NMORISTON. 1 PRESBYTERY OF ABERTARFF, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. JAMES DOUNE SMITH, MINISTER.* / I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The meaning of the word Urquhart is now unknown ; but as there are several parishes of that name in the Highlands, Urquhart on Loch Ness was anciently called Urchudin Cill ma Chrossan, as being the residence of Saint Crossan or Crostan, and latterly as Urchudin Thiama Ghrant, or the Laird of Grant's Ur^ quhart. Glenmoriston or Glenmore^EssaUy " the glen of the great waterfall," derives its name from the beautiful cascades on the river which flows through it, of which those near the mouth are the largest and most picturesque. Anciently, the parish of Glenmoriston was united to that of AbertarfiF, and it is believed that it was when the latter was con- nected with Boleskine that the former was joined to Urquhart. Since the suppression of Popery, at least, the two parishes have had but one minister, the glebe and parish church being situated at Kilmore, on the margin of the bay of Urquhart, a portion of Loch Ness, being thus placed at the extremity of the larger but more populous district of Glen Urquhart. Extent and Boundaries. — This exquisitely beautiful parish, which is more varied in mountain, hill, and dale, lake and stream, *^ the warbling wood, the pomp of groves and garniture of fields,** than perhaps any other in the Highlands, is about 30 miles long, and in general from 8 to 12 miles broad, though the extreme breadth along the northern bank of Loch Ness, from the confines of Aberiachan to Invermoriston, extends to about 15 miles. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Inver- ness, Kirkhill, and Kiltarlity ; on the east by Loch Ness ; on the south by the united parishes of Boleskine and AbertarfiF, and part of Kilmonivaig; on the south-west by the parishes of Glenshiel and • Drawn up by the Rev. J.D. Smith and George Anderson, Esq. Inverness. URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 37 Kintaii in Ross-sliire ; and on the west and north-west by the dis- trict and alpine valley of Strathglass, which lies in the parishes of Kilmorack and Kiltarlity. Topographical Appearances, — Glen Urquhart and Glenmoris* ton, which are the only transverse valleys branching ofiF from the north side of Loch Ness, form the principal and most populous divisions or portions of this parish, the rest being high and moun- tainous, and resorted to only for pasture, and peat, which consti- tutes the natural fuel of the district. These glens, proceeding in a south-west and nearly parallel direction, are respectively about nine and twelve miles long, and are separated by high heathy hills, which terminate immediately above Loch Ness, in the great round- backed mountain of Maulfuarmhonvie^ or Mealfuarvofiie^ (lite- rally, the height or lump of the cold moor,) whose dome-shaped summit attains an elevation of 3200 feet; while, in the opposite direction, these valleys usher us to the plain of Corrymony and the ridges overhanging Strathglass on the one hand, and on the other to the great moorland or table-ground which stretches around Loch Cluany and the bases of the peaked mountains of Kintaii. Glenmoriston, except near its mouth, where it is flat and deeply sunk among the high steep pine and birch-clad hills which rise ab- ruptly on both sides of it, is an inclined valley, expanding in width as we ascend, and displaying in great extent and luxuriance the pounded forms and lively green of a birch forest, which stretch far up the mountain sides from the dark and mingled masses of native pine, oak, and roan-tree lining the rocky banks of the impetuous torrent, which forces its tortuous course along the centre of the glen. It is hence but little cultivated, and the district is almost exclusively a pastoral one. The lower parts of the valley, indeed, are almost entirely covered with birches, and towards the interior the hills are crowned with noble woods of the Scotch fir or pine. Urquhart, on the other hand, expands first from the waters of Loch Ness into a beautiful semicircular plain, divided by regu- larly shaped fields and hedge-rows, and having all the hill sides above it beautifully diversified by woods and cultivated grounds, where persevering labour is seen overcoming all the obstacles of situation and climate, and carrying tillage to a great elevation. By the course of the river Coiltie^ which waters the southern side of this plain, the receding and smaller sized stripes of corn ground are seen extending into the natural domains of the birch tree and brown heath of the upland pastures ; while the Enneric water o^. 38 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the weist leads the eye past the white walls of the large and ex- cellent inn of Dnimnadrochit, (which corrupt word signifies " the height above the bridge,") beyond which a reach of two or three miles of haugh land (affording room for some of the best farms in the district, and the site of its most populous hamlets,) conducts to a rocky pass or gorge : on turning this we attain the upper or inland valley of Urquhart, which is almost circular, its centre being occupied by Loch Meikly, an elegant sheet of water, (about one mile long, and half a mile broad,) from the edges of which arise the green and highly improved lawns and cultivated grounds of Lakefield and Lochletter. Over a heathy ridge beyond these we reach, two or three miles farther on, the flat of Corrymony, which is adorned by some very large ash and beech trees, and where cultivation has been successfully introduced to a consider- able extent, at a distance of twenty-five miles from the sea, and at least 800 or 900 feet above it. Meteorology and Hydrography. — The parish, from its inland si- tuation, partakes of a mixed climate, intermediate between the ex- cessive moisture of the west coast and the cold dry atmosphere of some of the eastern counties, — the piercing blasts in spring which proceed from the German Ocean being less severely felt here than in the low country. The district is hence, on the whole, very heal- thy, and some of the inhabitants attain extreme old age. The line of junction between the primary and sandstone rocks described below is distinguished all round the parish by unusual- ly great excavations and undulations of the ground, which, being partially filled with rain-water, have given rise to an almost continu- ed chain of tenw, or small lakes or marshes in the higher districts ; and these being bordered with rushes and belts of the white and yellow water-lily, form the nestling places of large flocks of wild fowl. Of Loch Ness, the south-eastern boundary of the parish, no description need be given here, as an account of it more natu- rally belongs to another parish. At the base of the upper accli- vity of Mealfaurvonie, which is perpendicular on the north and south sides, nearly so on the west, and connected by a long taper- ing^ ridge with the rest of the mountain on the east, a small circu- lar lake exists which was once thought to be unfathomable, and supposed by the credulous neighbours to be united under ground with Loch Ness, but which has now been found to be compara- tively shaHow. From its western extremity it discharges a small streamlet called AuUsigh or « the Resting burn," which, tumbling URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 39 down along a rocky channel at the base of one of the grandest frontlets of rock in the Highlands, nearly 1500 feet high, empties itself into Loch Ness within three miles of Invermoriston. This burn constitutes the boundary between Urquhart and Glenmoris- ton ; and, besides the magnificent rocky and woodland scenery with which its course is lined, it is farther worthy of notice as display- ing near its mouth an unusually beautiful waterfall, and another equally fine one about two miles farther up, shaded with foliage of the richest dye. On the summit of the hill to the west of the burn, there is a rocking-stone, which two persons can move, about twenty feet in circumference. This burn's parent lake is also supposed occasionally when swol- len to send off a streamlet towards the north ; or, at least, the hol- low or rather deep ravine which collects the infant waters of the Coiltie, which flows along the southern margin of the vale of Ur- quhart, begins very near the northern extremity of this loch. The Coiltie, from the elevation of its springs, is a most rapid and sometimes dangerous rivulet, which carries down enormous masses of stone that choke up its channel, and cause it to overflow its banks, and destroy, not only the corn-land, but sometimes also houses and bridges. A tributary of this water, called the Divach^ amid beautiful and dense groves of birch, displays a waterfall as high and picturesque as that of Foyers ; and near the source of the Enneric river, which flows from Corrymony into the still basin of Loch Meikly, another smaller, though highly picturesque cascade, called the Fall of Mo- raU is to be seen. Near it, is a cave capable of receiving sixteen or twenty persons, in which several of the principal gentlemen of the district for a time concealed themselves from the Hanoverian soldiers after the Rebellion of 1745. The Falls of Divach are sel- dom supplied with a sufiiciency of water to give them that decided grandeur which they possess when the rivers are in speat^ as their swollen state is significantly called; but then the mountains sides are everywhere streaked round with foaming cataracts, which disappear on the return of fair weather. The burn which falls from Abe^ riachan on the confines of the parish of Inverness, displays a suc- cession of beautiful perpendicular falls and running cataracts; and that of Avdtguish^ (or the Fir-tree burn,) in the forest of Ruisky, eastward of Aultsigh, presents a continuous cataract, which, from the lake below, looks like a long white ribbon streaking the moun- 40 INVBRNESS-SHIRE. tain side, and part of which consists of a single leap at least 100 feet high. Geology. — The whole neighbourhood of Loch Ness seems for- merly to have been subjected to great volcanic action and large eruptions of granite ; and although this parish does not exhibit much granite en masse, yet its primitive rocks everywhere display the intrusion of various sets of granitic veins. At the summit of Glenmoriston, and around Loch Cluany, a beautiful white porphy- ritic granite, with large distinct crystals of felspar, occupies an extensive tract of country. Beneath, in the glen itself, and along both sides of the river Moriston, stratified gneiss prevails ; but at the eastern boundary of Urquhart, on the confines of the parish of Inverness, another large deposit of whitish granite occurs, which constitutes several of the hills encircling the moss of Caiplich, and is connected with the red granites of Dochfour and Aberiachan, described in the account of the parish of Inverness. From behind the farm of Polmailly in Glen Urquhart, a formation of unstrati- fied Serpentine rock proceeds in a north-west direction, constitut- ing three prominent summits, with several subordinate ridges, and extending 2^ or 3 miles in length, and about 1 mile or 1^ in breadth. It is distinguished by the dirty-brown colour of the surface, and the extreme sterility of the hills formed of it, — the serpentine here as elsewhere permitting but few trees, and hardly a blade of grass, to grow upon it. No beds of chromate of iron or other useful mine- rals have as yet been discovered in this deposit, which, however, has not been minutely examined, nor has the serpentine been po- lished or employed as an ornamental stone. It is contained in strata of gneiss, which abound in beds of gray and white primitive granular limestone, which is partially burnt and used for domestic purposes by the farmers of the district. The limestone contains very beautiful and numerous suits of actynolite, tremolite, and asbestus; besides which, several varieties of mica, hornblende, and bronzite, are occasionally found, — the hornblende also occurring, both massive and slaty, and highly crystallized, in beds of various sizes, and discovered generally in contact with veins of granite. But the most important rock, in a geological point of view, in this district, has yet to be noticed. It consists of a great over- lying and unconformable deposit of old red sandstone and its asso- ciated coarse conglomerate, and constitutes the summits next to Loch Ness, and the lower and more fertile portions of the vale of Urquhart. This deposit has been superimposed on the gneiss URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 41 rocks, and upheaved in very many places from its original horizon* tal position by the granitic invasion from below. To what extent the altitude of Mealfaurvonie may be owing to granitic displace- ment we have no means of determining ; but it is remarkable that the great upper dome or rounded summit of this mountain, which is elevated, as already noticed, 3200 feet above the sea, is one en- tire mass of conglomerate rock, (the abraded portions consisting of granite, gneiss, mica-slate, quartz rock, and sandstone, cohering together almost without any basis or cement,) and that the strati- fied sandstone at its base has been so indurated, probably from the influence of a subjacent but contiguous mass of granite, as in many places to have lost its distinctly stratified disposition, and to have acquired so hard and crystalline a texture as has rendered it fit to be used as a causeway stone for the streets of Inverness. The hardened variety has sometimes been described as quartz rock. This enormous sandstone deposit is now disjoined from the simi- lar rocks which composed the eastern termination of the Great Glen by Loch Ness, and the granitic hills of Caiplich and Doch- four; but when surveyed from Mealfaurvonie the conglome- rate ridges of Foyers and Balliechemock, described in the Ac- count of Dores parish, appear once to have been connected with it ; while on the north, across the valleyof Urquhart, the junction with the main eastern deposit of sandstone is completed through the upper braes of Kiltarlity. We have mentioned that the portion of Glen Urquhart next Loch Ness consists of the stratified sandstone and its associated conglomerate. Of the latter, almost all the eminences which sur- round it are composed ; and beneath their rough and bare sum- mits a broad plateau, gently declining towards the centre of the valley occurs, — on the inner lip or edge of which the sides of the glen sink rapidly down, showing that the bases of the higher summits were at one time washed by a great body of water, which rested on the plateau just mentioned, and which subsequently dis- charged itself by the trough below forming the present course of the river Enneric. In causing these excavations, the waters ap • pear to have encountered three principal barriers ; one now open- ed into Loch Ness, at the mouth of the valley, one stretching across from Craigmony, a little to the west of Drumnadrochit, and one at or above Dalshangy, where the separation between the upper and lower valleys is still visible. Several beautiful terraced banks, indicative of more recent ef- 42 INVBRNESS-SIIIRE. fects of water, encircle the vale of Urquhart on all sides, of which two are particularly distinct, (being elevated about 20 and 50 feet respectively above the level of Loch Ness,) and which, from their horizontal surface and smooth sloping sides, furnish fine banks for young plantations, and picturesque sites for cottages. The soils in this parish, though light, are on the whole warm and productive, and, from the prevalence of secondary rocks, rather more clayish than is common in Highland districts. The subsoil is (except where peat mosses have been reclaimed) universally gravel, more or less porous, and with which every hill side and every valley has been strewn over by ancient currents of water to a considerable depth. There are no metalliferous mines in the district, and no beds of lime quarried to any great extent, — the burnt lime of England, from the want of coals here, being on the whole to be got nearly as cheap as the local deposits could be wrought. Boulder, or loose field stones, are much used in the construction of houses and en- closures, and the only extensive quarry in the district is one which was opened in the sandstone (inclining to quartz rock) of Ruisky in front of Mealfaurvonie, and not much above the edge of Loch Ness, for supplying with large stones the works of the Caledonian Canal at Fort Augustus. It has not been used for some years, except to furnish paving or rather causeway stones for the streets of Inverness. Botany, — The banks of Loch Ness, and especially the portion between the bay of Urquhart and Invermoriston, are distinguished for the richness and variety of their vegetable productions. The space just mentioned contains the old forest of Ruisky, the top of which consists of native pine trees, with oaks, ashes, and hoary hawthorns, stretching in detached stems and clumps along the pre- cipitous rocks, and which, descending below, mingle themselves with the dense woods of birch which cover all the lower acclivities to the water's edge. The sloe, holly, guelder-rose, trembling poplar, alder, mountain-ash, or rowan-tree, with long trailing brambles, and the largest sized white and red rose bushes, increase the variety and beauty of the foliage, and when mixed with hazel and rasp bushes, create an almost impassable copse. Here and there are seen some enormous indigenous elms and gean trees ; and throughout the dis- trict the beautiful white flowering bird-cherry or hackberry, as it is called, (Prunuspadus), is most abundantly distributed, and attains an uncommonly large size ; while the gardens and pleasure-grounds URQUHiVRT AND GLENMORISTON. 43 at Invermoriston, Balmacaan, Polmailly, Kilmore, Lakefield, and Corrymony, show that the soil and climate are adapted for the growth of the finest larches, planes, sycamores, beeches, walnuts, and all sorts of fruit trees. In Ruisky are to be seen the remnants of the larger sized birch trees, which are now become scarce in the country, many of the trunks being 5 or 6, and a few even 8 or 9 feet in circumference. Their wrinkled and hoary branches sup- port great quantities of parasitic mosses and lichens, and the green sward around them abounds in an unusual variety of wood and meadow plants ; but the moors scarcely attain a sufficient elevation * for the support of the truly Alpine flora. Even Mealfaurvonie, notwithstanding its great height, hardly shows any Alpine plants, except Saxifraga aizoides^ Hieracium alpinum^ and Alchemilla aU pincu Among the rarer small plants of the parish may be enumerat- ed Adoxa moschntellina^ Agrimonia Eupatorium, Betula nana^ Cir" cea Lutetiana et alpina, JEpilobium anffustifolium. Geranium luci-^ duntj Habenaria viridisj albida et bifolioj Paris quadrifolia^ Pyrola medioj minor^ et secunda^ Saxifraga hypnoides^ Vaccinium oxycoo cosf Arbutus alpina. The bogs and peat mosses abound in trunks and roots of oaks and fir trees, greater in size than are now seen in the native forests, and when these cannot be dug out in large pieces, they are split up for fire wood. Ahimah. — The only wild animals now found in this district are, the fox, badger, polecat, weasel, and wild-cat Tradition, and some faint notices in old chronicles, assert that the beaver as well as the wolf inhabited the sides of Loch Ness. The capercaillie or cock of the wood, (Urogallus vulgaris^) was seen in Glenmoris- ton, and the neighbouring hills of Strathglass, about seventy years ago, but is now quite extinct. Red-deer, roe, black and red grouse,, ptarmigan, with brown and white or Alpine hares, still abound on all the estates in the district. Goats were formerly numerous, but they have of late been greatly discountenanced, as injurious to the woods and plantations. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — The state of property, and the history of this dis- trict in ancient times, would be utterly unknown, but for the few gleams of light thrown on them by the annals of the Castle of Ur- quhart, one of the chain of fortresses (several of them royal) which, from the earliest times, stretched across the Great Glen from Inverness to Inverlochy, and secured the country from foreign invasion, and the excess of civil discord. In the present &kA<5A\-> 44 INVERNESS-SHIRE. therefore, this castle merits our first regard. Perched on the west- ern promontory of Urquhart bay, it overhangs Loch Ness, and is built on a detached rock, separated from the adjoining hill, at the base of which it lies, by a moat about 25 feet deep, and 16 broad. The rock is crowned by the remains of a high wall, or curtain, sur- rounding the buildings, the principal of which, a strong square keep of three stories, is still standing, surmounted by four square hang- ing turrets. This outward wall encloses a spacious area, and is in some places terraced ; and in the angles were platforms for the convenience of the defending soldiery. The entrance was by a spacious gateway, between two guard-rooms, projected beyond the general line of the walls, and was guarded by more than one mas- sive portal, and a huge portcullis. These entrance-towers are much in the style of architecture peculiar to the castles of Edward I. of England ; and in front of them lay the drawbridge across the outer moat The whole works were extensive and strong, and the masonry was better finished than is common in the generality of Scottish strongholds. They could have accommodated 500 or 600 men. The first siege Urquhart Castle is known to have sustained was in the year 1303, when it was taken by the officers of Edward L, who were sent forward by him to subdue the country from Kil- drummie, near Nairn, — beyond which he did not advanbe in per- son ; and, of all the strongholds in the north, it was that which longest resisted the efforts of his arms. Alexander de Bois, the brave governor, and his garrison, were put to the sword. Sir Ro- bert Lauder of Quarrelwood, in Morayshire, was governor of the castle, A. D. 1334, and maintained it against the Baliol faction. His daughter, marrying the laird of Chisholm in Strathglass, the offspring of their union, Sir Robert Chisholm of that ilk, be- came laird of Quarrelwood in right of his mother, and constable of Urquhart Castle in right of his grandfather. After this period, it is known to have been a royal fort or garrison ; but it is very likely it was so also at the commencement of the fourteenth cen- tury, and existed as such in the reigns of the Alexanders, and other early Scottish sovereigns. A gentleman in Inverness is in possession of an original charter of this Sir Robert Chisholm to the church of the Holy Cross, in Inverness, of certain lands near the town, dated on the feast of the Epiphany, 1362. In 1359, the barony and castle of Urquhart were disponed by David 11. to William Earl of Sutherland and his son John. URQUHART AND GLENMORlSTON. 45 Subsequently it was held for the king by the great family of Grant of Freuchie, now styled Grant of Grant, who obtained pos- session of most of the lands around it, constituting the domains of the castle, as the crown's chamberlains ; and finally, in the year 1509, when King James IV. was empowered by .Parliament to set out in feu-farm the Royal lands, both annexed and unannexed, he granted three charters of the lordship of Urquhart and baronies of Urquhart and Glenmoriston, in different portions, to John Grant of Freuchie and his two sons, from the latter of whom are descended the families of the Grants of Glenmoriston and Corty- mony. On the brow of the hill fronting Loch Ness, and near the ham- let of Bunloit, there is a small vitrified fort called Dunscriben, which communicated with similar signal stations at the east end and centre of the great Caledonian valley; and about two miles west of the castle in Glen Urquhart rises a very prominent rocky hill, styled Craigmoni, which was partly encircled on the summit with rude walls of stone, and on which, tradition says, the ancient bea- con fires were lighted, besides its being used as the gallows hill of the old castle. In Argyleshire, a tradition prevails that a Danish or Norwegian prince of the name of Moni having landed in the dis- trict of Crinan, (still known as the pass of Moni,) and laid waste the country, was afterwards attacked by the native inhabitants, who routed his troops, and pursued him and a few of his followers, who with difficulty regained their ships, and fled northward towards Lochaber. Having reached Craigmoni, and established himself in the adjoining valley, still called Dalmoni, this son of the king of Lochlin or Norway, as he is styled in the country, seems afterwards to have been driven farther up into the interior, and to have perish- ed at Corrymony or Coiramhoni, the valley of Moni, where his grave ( Uai Mhoni) is still to be seen. The beautifully exposed and fine sloping grounds on the east side of the bay of Urquhart were early brought into culture, and belonged to the order of Knights Templars, or the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, some of whom were probably constables of the adjoining king's castle, and founders of a small religious house which stood on the point still called Temple, on the farm of Saint Ninians. The public burying-places in this parish were all probably formed round the shrines of saints or ancient chapels ; and in Urquhart there is one at Kilmore, the great burying-ground, within which the 46 INVBRNESS-SHIRE. present parish church stands; one at CilUSantninianj near Temple; one at CiUtnhichaelj a short distance west of Drumnadrochit; and another in the height of the country at Corrymony, called Claodh CkurtdaTii the burial-place of Curidan. In Glenmoriston, the se- questered and picturesquely lying burial place called Clachan au Inair^ that is, the burying-ground of the lower district, is situated at the mouth of the valley, and another higher up is denominated, in honour of an old saint, Clachan Merechardy the word Clachan, literally a stone, being the distinctive appellation for a fane or church. Numerous sepulchral cairns and circles of upright stones or ancient Pagan temples exist in the district, but none so large as to merit a particular description. Connected with antiquities, it is necessary to be borne in mind, that, owing to the inaccessible state of the country, and to the dis- tance at which the chiefs of the clan Grant resided from it, this district was, till after the suppression of the Rebellion in 1746, in a very unsettled and rather lawless condition. At that time, also, the population was beginning to be excessive, and the resident gen- try, from the want of employment for the young and daring minds with whom they were surrounded, had such di£5culty in keeping them in subjection, that by some the breaking out of the Rebellion was regarded almost as a relief to their restlessness. But if such was the state of the districts bordering on the lowlands, those far- ther to the west were still more unhappy and unsettled ; and the in- habitants of Urquhart, who, besides the tending of cattle, had also begun to devote themselves to agriculture, were exposed to fre- quent depredations from the clans inhabiting the districts around Glengarry, Loch Eil, and Kintail. It may be added, that the burn of Aultsigh was, in the early part of the seventeenth century, the scene of a conflict, which is one of the most memorable connected with the parish, betwixt a party of the Macdonells of Glengarry, and the Mackenzies of Ross-shire. This has been commemorated in a celebrated pibroch called " the Raid of Cill- Christ," said to have been composed by the Glengarry piper during the conflagration of the church which oc- casioned the conflict Land-owners. — The heritors or absolute proprietors of the lands in this parish are. Sir Lewis Alexander Grant of Grant, Baronet ; Earl of Seafield, whose seat in this district is at Balmacaan, in the lower valley of Urquhart ; James Murray Grant, Esq. of Glenmo- riston and Moy; Patrick Grant, Esq. of Lakefield; and Thomas URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 47 Ogilvie, Esq. of Corrymony ; all of whom have residences on their estates. Pvblic Work. — About sixty years ago a manufactory for linen cloth, and for instructing the youths of the neighbourhood in Eng- lish reading and the principles of the mechanical arts, was opened at Invermoriston, in a set of buildings erected for the purpose. Wea- vers and spinners, with a schoolmaster and mistress, or governess, were brought from the low country, and the management of the business was committed to a Mr Shaw of Inverness; but after a few years trial, the scheme was abandoned, without having materially promoted the purposes intended. It deserves to be remembered, however, as several attempts of a similar description were made much about the same time in various parts of Inverness-shire and Ross-shire, and which, unquestionably, had some effect in introducing the arts and industrious habits among the Highlanders. No other public work or manufactory exists at present in the united parishes, except a distillery recently commenced at Inver- moriston. III. — Population. 'I'he population in the parish of Urquhart in 181 1 was 1944 Glenmoriston, 689 2633 Urquhart in 1821, 2180 Gienmoriston, 608 2788 Urquhart in 1831, 2383 Glenmoriston, 559 2942 ITie decrease in the district of Glenmoriston has been occasion- ed by emigration, consequent on the introduction of sheep-farming, to the partial exclusion of cattle, — that district of the parish having at no time been capable of supporting an agricultural population. Tlie yearly average of births for the last seven years has been 82, and of marriages, 17. The register of baptisms is now regu- larly kept ; but there is none of deaths. Language. — Gaelic is still universally spoken in this parish, though many even of the poorest inhabitants have acquired a know- ledge of the English language, which is daily gaining ground. Character of the People, — The people are a hardy industrious race, and, from the recent suppression of the trade in smuggled whisky, there is no doubt of their morals being in the course of improvement. Many of them marry young, notwithstanding that they are extremely poor. Their attachment to their landlords is 48 INVERNESS-SHlRE. still very great ; and we have no doubt, that, were occasion to re- quire it, the families of Grant of Grant and Glenmoriston could easily muster on their own estates, as they did during the last con- tinental war, a numerous and most active and intrepid body of sol- diers, willing to follow wherever their superiors would lead. IV. iNDUSTRjr. Agriculture. — In the district of Urquhart farming is carried on according to the most approved system of the south, and it would be useless to recapitulate here the particular features of it. The lands are now well limed, and produce crops of wheat, sown grasses, barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips ; besides a considerable quan- tity of meadow hay obtained from the natural wet pastures. Al- most all the wheat raised, with a considerable portion of the oats, is in general sent to market to Inverness, but is occasionally ship- ped at Temple direct for London ; and for some years past a con- siderable quantity of potatoes has been exported for the London market, * Besides the cattle kept in the low grounds, there are betwixt 20,000 and 21,000 sheep supported on the hills of this parish. V. — Parochial Economy. Hamlets, — There are no towns in this district, but in Glen Ur- quhart there are several hamlets of labourers, with a few trades- men, most of whom, besides working in the fields as hired ser- vants to the neighbouring farmers, have small crofts or gardens of their own. The principal hamlet, called Milntown, contains about 36 cottages and 150 inhabitants, including women and children. The other small scattered hanilets may, in all, contain about 115 inhabitants. Means of Communicatioiu — Till towards the close of last cen- tury, the roads in the Highlands generally were exceedingly bad, and those in this parish were no better than bridle tracks. Soon after the year 1760, a better sort of road (but in many places wanting drains and parapets) was commenced between Inverness and Drumnadrochit by Loch Ness side, and, by dint of persever- ing exertions in applying the proceeds of the local statute labour money, and private subscriptions, aided by grants from the county of Inverness, it was at length completed, and even prolonged over the shoulder of Mealfaurvonie to Glenmoriston, where it ceased till the communication with the west coast was opened up through * The writer r^rets that he has not been able to obtain an accurate account of the agricultural produce of the parish. 4 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON. 49 that valley by the Parliamentary Commissionersi appointed in the beginning of the present century for the formation of roads and bridges in the Highlands. Portions of the old road may still be seen winding along the impending rocky cliffs above Loch Ness ; and, although few travellers would now a-days trust themselves on such a promenade, persons are still alive who recollect that it was a day of great rejoicing in the district when three gentlemen of Ur- quhart were first enabled to ride abreast all the way from Inverness. A branch of this district road was conducted up to the top of the glen at Corrymony, and another off-shoot across the hill of Coille Shallach (or the boggy copse) into the valley of Glenconvinth, thereby communicating with the Aird and the post-road from Ross-r shire. Both of these district roads are at present kept in good repair. The southern boundary of the parish is now skirted all along by the new Parliamentary road, which proceeds from Inver- ness by the north side of Loch Ness, through Glenmoriston to Kintail and Skye. Its surface is excellent, but it is in some places rather narrow, too steep, and in need of continuous parapets. Portions of it were excavated out of the solid rock at great ex- pense and labour, the under side being propped up with high walls and buttresses. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church, which stands in the lower part of the valley of Urquhart, within about half a mile of Loch Ness, was built in 1630. It is rather an ill constructed house ; and, although repaired in 1814, is in so dilapidated a state, (besides being inadequate to accommodate the people who attend,) that it will be necessary to make immediate application for a new and larger building. The minister officiates here two Sundays out of three, and the third at Miklie, six miles up the glen, where a commodious chapel or meeting-house was built about six years ago. There is a missionary minister settled in Glenmoriston by the Committee for Managing the Royal Bounty, — who preaches alternately at Invermoriston and in the upper part of the glen, at each of which stations there is a comfortable meeting-house. Both Gaelic and English are preached in the different places of worship within the parish, — with the exception of the one in the braes of Glenmoriston, where there is seldom occasion for service in the latter language. There are no Dissenting or Seceding chapels in the parish, the inhabitants all belonging to the Established church, with the ex- ception of 55 individuals of the Roman Catholic persuasion in INVERNESS. D 50 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Glenmoriston. The people are regular in their attendance on divine ordinances ; and the number of communicants at present on the roll is 108. The stipend is 16 chalders, half barley and half meal, with L.8, 6s, 8d.' for communion elements. The glebe consists of about six acres of arable land, and about half an acre of pasture. The manse was built in 1800; and, having been repaired about seven years ago, is in tolerable condition. Education. — By the Parochial School act, the heritors of exten- sive Highland parishes being allowed to divide the salary into two or three parts, advantage was taken of this clause in regard to Urquhart and Glenmoriston ; and, in consequence, there are three parochial schools in the parish, — one within half a mile of the pa- rish church, to which is allotted the half of the maximum salary allowed to schoolmasters ; one at Miklie in the braes of Glen Ur- quhart ; and the third at Invermoriston, — the other half of the sa- lary being equally divided between the teachers of the two latter. There are two schools in the parish supported by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge, — one in Bun- loit of Urquhart, and the other in the braes of Glenmoriston. Besides these, there are three other schools taught by individuals, who depend entirely for remuneration on the school fees. In two of the parochial schools, and in one of those taught by the latter mentioned individuals, Latin, English, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping, are taught; and the fees exacted are from Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. the quarter, according to the branches taught. In the other schools the same education is afforded, with the exception of Latin. In the schools supported by the Society, great attention is paid to the teaching of the Gaelic language ; and in the other schools, it is taught to those who wish to acquire it. The total amount of fees actually paid to the three parochial schoolmasters is about L. 50 per annum. During six months of the year all these schools are well attend- ed. From the 1st of November 1833 to the beginning of May fol- lowing, there were 552 children attending at these different schools; but in the summer months the number is diminished by one-half. The people in general are so much alive to the benefits of educa- tion, that, in the course of a few years, it is supposed there will be few or no individuals between the ages of seven and twenty unable to read the Bible. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF. 51 receiving parochial aid amounts to 60, among whom is divided in different proportions from L. 25 to L. 30, arising from the collec- tions made in the churches on Sundays, and the interest of L. 160 of mortifications. Inns. — At Drumnadrochit and Invermoriston are two excellent inns ; and at Ruisky is a public-house where travellers can bait their horses, and, if required, get a boat across Loch Ness to see the Fall of Foyers, or the wild but beautiful scenery at Inverfar- rikaig. April 1835. UNITED PARISHES OF BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF. PRESBYTERY OF ABERTARFF, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. WILLIAM ERASER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and. Natural History. The period is not very far distant when these two parishes were united ; but the writer cannot at present ascertain the exact date of their union. Abertarff and Glenmoriston had been previously joined together The junction of the former with Boleskine has been injudicious, — there being a hill seven miles long interven- ing between the inhabited districts of the two parishes, and the greater part of the intervening space being, from its height, fre- quently impassable in winter. Names. — In Abertarff, there are two rivers or rivulets which fall into Loch Ness within a very few yards of each other, called the Oich and the Tarff, — the former a considerable stream arising from two pretty large lakes, — the latter, except when swollen by occa- sional mountain torrents, or the dissolution of the winter snow, only a brook, though it gives name to the district of Abertarff. " The parish of Boleskine is so termed," says the writer of the former Account, " from a farm contiguous 'to the Fall of Foyers called Bail^os-cionn, which signifies in Gaelic, the town hanging above the loch," (Loch Ness.) The name appears rather to be compounded of these three words, " Boile^eas-ceannj* " ceann" signifying height, summit, " eo*" a cataract, and ^^boile'^ fury, rage, 52 INVERNESS-SHIRE. madness. Hence Boleskine appears to signify the summit of the furious cascade. The cascade here in view is now extensively known under the name of the Fall of Foyers. Extent^ Boundaries. — The united parish from the N. E. to the S. W. following the course of the Military Road, measures 21 miles. It is of unequal breadth, being partly indented by Loch Ness ; but the average breadth may be stated at 10 miles. On the south it is bounded by the parish of Laggan ; on the W. S. W. by Kilmanivaig ; on the north by Urquhart ; on the N. E. by Do- res ; and on the east by Daviot. There is one farm in the dis- trict of Boleskine which is completely detached from the rest of the parish, and is surrounded by the parishes of Daviot and Dores ; and in like manner there is another farm locally situated within the parish, but which belongs to Dores. Topographical appearances, — The parish of Boleskine embraces a portion of the country called Strath-herric, composed of flat lands interspersed with some undulating banks. Adjoining to the strath there is a great extent of high hill ground, Corry-yearrig ; over which the old military line of road passes from Fort- Augustus to the south ; and adjoining it to the east, a range of equally high hills called Monadhliath. There is a considerable extent of low and flat lands in the pa- rish, favourable in good seasons for the growth of oats, barley and potato crops. Climate. — Boleskine is often parched during the summer months, while Abertarfi* is favoured with fostering dews and gentle rains. The clouds which swiftly fly along the high hills on each side of Loch Ness carrying rain in their bosom to other quarters* disap- point the anxious wishes and hopes of Boleskine, day after day, and are to it literally clouds without rain. The prevailing winds are the W. S. and S. W., — which, from the adjacent elevated hills, acquire irresistible force, and sometimes overthrow houses, and spread havoc among the woods. The climate of Boleskine is, on the whole, severe,— owing to the great number of lakes, to the elevation of the parish above the level of the sea, and to its lofty and extensive chain of hills. The ri- gorous climate, induces rheumatism and pulmonary complaints ; and the spare diet on potatoes, particularly if coupled with a habit of tippling, is thought to occasion the frequent occurrence of dropsy. These are the prevalent distempers of the parish. Hydrography. — There are at least a dozen lakes in the parish, — BOLESKINE AND ABBRTARFF. 53 exclusive of Loch Ness, which is 24 miles long, and averages 1^ in breadth. The depth of Loch Ness in the middle is from 106 to 130 fathoms, and towards the sides from 65 to 75. From its gr^it depth it never freezes. On both sides of Loch Ness, the ground rises to a considerable altitude, and is adorned with ash, oak, fir, and birch. The scenery of this and the other lakes, all of which pay tri- bute to Loch Ness, is wild and romantic. — The rivers in this parish are inconsiderable in point of number, extent, and magnitude ; but they are frequently much enlarged by the autumnal rains and the thawing of the snow in spring. They all fall into Loch Ness. Fall of Foyers. — There are two remarkable cascades in the pa- rish formed by the same river within less than half a mile from one another, and known by the name of the Fall of Foyers. Directly in front of the upper one, there is a bridge of one arch thrown across the river, from which travellers can view it in perfect security. A httle above the cascade, the 'river is very much contracted between two rocks ; and previous to the erection of the bridge, a log was thrown over this chasm, reaching from one rock to the other, sind serving as a bridge to the]more courageous foot-passengers. * Many other views, all of them very interesting, may be had of this fall. Ascending a narrow rugged path on the west side of the river, about 200 feet, to a level eminence, where there are a few dwarfish trees, and looking thence southwards, — the visitor will see to advantage the arch, the cascade, and the abyss below, where the current forces its way over piles of stones and fragments of rocks ; and about a quar- ter of a mile to the south on the high road leading to Fort- Augus- tus there is a charming view of the bridge seen through the branches of the pendant trees. Advancing from the less to the greater fall, the prospect gradu- ally increases in interest The large stones in the channel of the river over which the waters roll and foam, — the weeping birch lin- ing the precipitous banks at irregular distances — the projecting mis- shapen rocks overhanging the tremendous gulf, and the impetuous torrent below-^form a scene that cannot be beheld without admira- tion and awe. There are different positions from which the prin- cipal fall may be viewed to great advantage. One of the best is from the edge of the rock nearly opposite to it on the west side of the river ; but it is believed that strangers are seldom directed to * There is a tradition, that a person who resided in the heights of the country, while in a state of intoxication, passed on horseback along the log bridge in a moonlight night ; and that, having gone afterwards to the place, he was so horror-struck at the peril he escaped, that he returned home, went to bed, and soon after died. 54 INVEBNESS-SHIRE. this spot. The favourite view is from what is called ^^ the green point,*' which fronts the body of the water in its descent ; it is a thin rock projecting forward beyond the common bank, covered with a green sward, almost always saturated by the spray which ascends from the fall, and which, particularly when the wind blows from the north, rises some hundred feet high. The access to " the green point" has now been rendered easy and safe by a footpath made to it„ within these few years, from the high road. Geology. — There is limestone of a good quality both in Bole- skine and Abertarff ; but it has never been wrought to any great ex- tent ; and now lime can be had at as cheap, if not a cheaper rate, from Sunderland, through the Caledonian Canal, than perhaps the native lime could be manufactured and sold at. This at least is true as regards Abertarff, because almost all the tillable lands are nearly on a level with the canal. But it is otherwise with Boleskine, where the arable grounds, with the exception of the place of Foyers, is at the distance of some miles up hill all the way, from the nearest landing-plnce on the banks of Loch Ness, — which deters farmers from UHJng imported lime as a manure ; whereas, were a person, of no groat C4ipital, but judicious and experienced, to obtain a lease of the lime rock, and to manufacture and sell it at the rate that the English lime can be purchased at, this invaluable article of manure would be brought within the reach of every farmer in the parish, and the poorest would avail himself of it. The soil would thereby be enriched, the harvest would be earlier and more produc- tive, and the climate, by means of additional planting, greatly me- lionited. ITie whole of the Boleskine district may be said to be nearly one continued rock of grdnite, both blue and red, but chiefly the former. There is a well in Abertarff, slightly impregnated with iron-ore. The soil, which is from six to ten or twelve inches deep, is not, on the whole, bad ; but is various, partaking of gravel, clay, till, loam, and peat moss. If left but a few years, it is commonly overrun with heath. There is abundance of peat moss over a bed of compact gravel and clay. Zoology. — At one period, the largest deer in Scotland were sup- posed to be in this parish, and the hill called Monadhliath, was their favourite haunt. This hill is covered almost all over with a species of fungus, or that apparently unproductive and useless plant called gray moss, which is the natural provision of the deer, with- out which they cannot thrive. Clover is rich pasture for cattle; but BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF. 55 were the deer confined to it, or to verdant meadows, they would soon die amidst the luxurious abundance. There are still a good many deer in the parish ; but these grace- ful and noble animals, which enliven our lonely heaths, and adorn our barren mountains, are much degenerated and greatly reduced in number and size. They have given way to that homely and ti- mid but more profitable race which contributes so much to our daily food and raiment. The hart and the roe seek their food and shelter in the lower grounds amongst the woods. AH the interior lakes abound in trout, both red and white, of an excellent quality; and some years ago salmon was plentiful in Loch Ness, but since the Caledonian Canal has been opened they have very much decreased. The diminution is partly attributed to steam navigation, but chiefly to* the fry missing their proper course to the sea. Instead of coming down the River Oich, as of old, they de- scend by the canal ; and, its water being smooth, myriads of them fall a prey to the voracious pike, and most of those which escape this foe perish in getting through the locks. Botany. — Oaks, ash, fir, and birch are the sorts of timber most congenial to the soil of this parish. There is only one tree in it known to the writer, remarkable for age, size, or form. It is of that species which, before the invention of artillery, when the issue of battle greatly depended on the bow and arrow, was in so much request. It is a yew growing on the farm of Foirbeg, on the banks of Loch Ness. It is now noticed, however, not on account of its magnitude, for it measures in circumference at the bottom only 14^ feet, and in height 33 feet 6 inches ; but for its antiquity. It has stood for time immemorial. Tradition itself is silent as to its age. Its branches are not so extended and luxuriant as might be expect- ed, because all its visitors, native and strangers, have been strip ping it of these ornaments. II. — Civil History. Land^Otvners. — The chief land-owners are, Mr Fraser of Lo- vat, Mr Fraser of Foyers, and Mr Fraser of Abertarff. Parochial Registers. — In regard to the parochial registers, it may be observed, that in Abertarfl*, a separate, partial, and incom- plete register of baptisms has been kept since January 1737, and of marriages from November 1739, under the management of the successive resident missionary ministers at Fort- Augustus. The present incunibent had at first followed the same plan, and for se-? veral years the registers were correctly kept ; but subsequently, oa 56 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the appointment of another missionary, to whose charge they were given, they were totally neglected for a period of ten years. It is said that, during the long incumbency of the Rev. Thomas Fra- ser, a register of the births and marriages had been kept, but that the person to whom it was entrusted lost it in the act of passing a rapid stream. There is no register of the Boleskine district pre- vious to the year 1798. There are now two distinct ones, kept for both Abertarff and Boleskine, which are regularly transmitted about the first of January, every year, to the incumbent ; and their entries transcribed under his immediate superintendence, according to their respective dates, into one volume. Antiquities. — In the vernacular language of the county, the pre- sent glebe is called " Druim-a-dhampuil," signifying Temple Ridge, it being a ridge on which were the ruins of several Druidical temples of a circular form, the greatest number of which have been removed by the present incumbent, as they were generally placed in the centre of the fields, and interrupted the operation of the plough. There are still some left to exercise the industry and pa- tience of his successor.* There is a farm in Boleskine called ^^ Tom-a-bhoid," and ano- ther of the same name in Abertarfi*, derived from ^^ TW," a green eminence, which describes the local position of both, and ^' modj" an assembly or court, — the term being still appUed to an assembly of persons qualified to administer justice. Each of these farms overlooks the rest of the country. In the Great Glen of Scotland, through which the Caledonian Ca- nal passes, are to be seen the remains, at various distances, of seve- ral vitrified forts ;— of which there is one, on the west, on the farm of Auchteran in Abertarfi*, and another on the eastern boundary of Boleskine, but properly speaking in the parish of Dores, which is there separated from Boleskine by a very small and contempti- ble rivulet. These towers or forts are every where called by the same appellation, namely, ^^ Dungeardal," literally signifyingva pro- tecting eminence, or a guarded fortified hill. They were compact- ed or cemented in a manner more firm, indissoluble, and inde- structible than any modem building, notwithstanding the vaunted improvements made in architecture. Across the hill of Suidh-Chuiman is the great Military Road from Inverness to Fort- Augustus; and on its very summit, within two yards of the road, there is a small cairn, such as is commonly * For some account of the minor antiquities of the parish see MS. BOLESRINE AND ABERTARFF. 57 found where persons have perished from the inclemency of the wea- ther, or died suddenly. It is said that, on this spot, ode of the chieftains of the clan Cummin, so powerful in their day, while on the way to visit some of his dependents, fell sick and died. Modem Buildings. — The only buildings in the parish meriting the slightest notice are those of the garrison of Fort- Augustus. The ground on which this fort is built, and the farm connected with it, were originally part of the Lovat estate, but were appropriated by Government, in the year 1729, for the purpose of erecting a fortifi- cation to overawe some clans who were inclined to disturb the peace of the country, and to restore the forfeited and exiled family of Stewart. The garrison is now become unnecessary and useless ; and Government some years ago ordered the ramparts to be dis* mantled,2and the ordnance to be sent to Fort-George. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1755^ - 1961> 1811, . 1462, 1821, . 2096, 1831, . 1829, The cause of the late decrease of the population may be partly, emigration to America, — which has been occasioned by the intro- duction of the sheep-farming system. There are no towns in the parish, and only two small villages, Cill Chuiman, including the garrison, inhabited by 216 souls; and Balfrishel by 159. The yearly average of births of the Protestant population for the last seven years is . . • - " 88^ of marriages, - - - 14 7 Average number of persons under 15 years of age, - 702 betwixt 15 and 90, - 437 dO and 50, - . 371 50 and 70, - - . 234 upwards of 70, - . . 85 Bachelors upwards of 50 years of age, - - - . 10 Unmarried women upwards of 45, . - - - 42 Widows, - - • • • 79 Average number of children in each family, - - - 4 j (j Number of families in the parish, ----- 375 chiefly employed in agricultiu*e, - - 108 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, G6 The number of heritors in the parish, including the Crown, is 10; and each of them is proprietor of land of the yearly value of L. 50, and upwards. Language^ S^c. of the Peopfe.— Gaelic is the language generally spoken, and although it has not lost ground, the English has be- 58 INVEUNESS-SHIBE. come more generally known within the last three-and-thirty years. Within the last few years a striking improvement has taken place in the dress of the peasantry. About fifteen years ago, some va- grant preachers began to make their appearance in the parish. Elated with their supposed attainments in heavenly knowledge and grace, they undervalued the ministrations of the established pastor, and endeavoured to mislead the people. ^ IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There is no undivided common in the parish ; but, as there are few enclosures, there are frequent trespasses by cattle and sheep, throughout the winter and spring. The trees indigenous to the parish are, the oak, fir, ash, birch, mountain-ash, poplar. There is hazel, but it is never allowed to come to any beneficial size. Rent of Land. — The annual rent of sheep grass is from 2s. 6d. to ds. per acre, which is by far too high, considering the price of the product for some years past. Killin is the most valuable grazing; and if the limits of this account permitted, the writer would be tempted to essay a description of this charming dell. Rate of Wages. — The demand for labour beyond what the year- ly hired servants perform, is of rare occurrence. Where, there is oc- casion for additional hands for ordinary work, the rate is from 9d. to Is. per day, with victuals; reapers get Is. ; mowers Is. 6d.; ma- sons, 2s. with provisions. Husbandry. — From the nature of the land, husbandry is prac- tised in a very limited degree ; but, as far as circumstances permit, it is conducted as in the low country. The mountain torrents fre- quently encroach on the arable ground, and commit great injury ; for unfortunately no embankments have been made to ward off the damage. A few respectable tenants have commodious and well-construct- * A tradition, illustrative of the superstitions of the county, has been handed down from one generation to another, — that one of those persons favoured with the superna- tural gift of conveying the milk of their neighbours* cattle to their own, a native of Strathherric, had goneto the adjoining country of Badenoch, with the view of practising his art in favour of his own country generally, and succeeded so &r as to be able to con- fine the Badenoch milk in a withe, which he carried across the hill of Monadhliath to the height of Killin, where it burst (in virtue, perhaps, of a counter spell by the be- reaved country,) and overflowed that delightful plain, — which has been the cause of the richness of its pasture, and of the superior quality and quantity of milk it produces. The good effects of this untoward accident were not circumscribed to the dell of Kil- lin, for some of its streamlets kindly glided down to Strathherric, which accounts for the reputation, and deserved reputation, of the excellence of the milk, cream, and butter in that district. BOLESRINE AND ABERTARFF. 59 ed farm buildings, and their arable ground partially enclosed; but in general there are not many enclosures in the parish. No improvements deserving notice have recently been made ; nor does the mountainous nature of the country admit of extended melioration, otherwise than by planting, which would interfere with the pasture of the sheep, and consequently reduce the current rents, — though at the distance of eighty years hence these would be considerably augmented. Breeds ofLive-Stock. — There are upwards of 30,000 sheep in the parish, almost all of the Cheviot breed. Though the carcase does not grow to a very extraordinary size, the wool is esteemed of superior quality, and has always fetched the highest price at mar- ket. Most of it is sold to woolstaplers in the north of England, and the wedders and sheep are generally purchased by south country storemasters, who frequent the great annual sheep and wool fair at Inverness ; but sometimes they are sent by the breeders to the Fal- kirk September or October tryst, in expectation of getting a bet- ter price than what they had previously been offered in the country. If disappointed, they must dispose of them at a reduced price, or win- ter them in the south, which increases the expense, and eventually diminishes the gain, or drive them to England, which places them still more at the mercy of the buyer. The parish being better calculated for sheep than for any other stock, there is comparatively little attention paid to the rearing of other stock. A few gentlemen, however, are careful in procuring the breed of genuine Highland cattle, and there is of late years an evi- dent disposition to improve the race of horses, by crossing the na- tive breed with the south country draught horse. Goats would prosper here, but would not remunerate ; and sheep- farmers are universally hostile to a mixed stock. Fisheries, — There is only one small salmon fishery in the parish, which rents at L. 30 a-year. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised : Produce of grain of all kinds, potatoes, - - . hay, turnips, L.4dl3 V. — Parochial Economy. Inverness, distant twenty-one miles from the manse, is the nearest town to the parish. Means of Communication. — There is a post-office at Fort-Au- L.2262 1334 567 150 60 INVERNESS-SHIRE. gustus, to which there is a post from Fort- William thrice in the week, and a daily one from Inverness, which travels alternate days by the south and north side of Loch Ness, and passes within a mile of the manse. At present, there are no turnpike roads but the old Military road. It runs through the parish on the south side for about twenty-two miles ; it is under the management of the Parlimentary Commis- sioners for Highland roads and bridges, and is kept in good re- pair. The county have lately come to the resolution of placing toll- bars on this road ; but it is not supposed that the proceeds will suffice to defray the necessary expense of erecting the bars, &c. With this road a branch of one of the Parliamentary roads on the west side of the parish unites at Fort- Augustus. A branch of a county dis- trict road, extending about three miles, commencing at the east boundary of the parish, passes by the manse, and joins the main road half a mile to the west of it. There are other two district roads across the country : these are not kept in such good repair. With one exception, the bridges on the great lines of road on both sides of the lake are kept in good condition. There has been, time immemorial, a wooden bridge on the river Tarff, close to the walls of Fort- Augustus, kept in constant repair and rebuilt when requisite by government ; but a few years ago, it was greatly dama- ged, and is now in a most ruinous state, so that it has become ha- zardous even to foot-passengers. The Caledonian Canal runs through the parish. When the ca- nal was opened, a certain rate was paid by every vessel navigating it, ac- cording to its tonnage. A good many vessels then frequented it. The rate was soon doubled, and fewer ships resorted to it. The commis- sioners, finding that while they grasped the shadow, the substance slipped through their fingers, reverted to the original rate; but this has not yet restored the shipping. It affords means of communica- tion by steam packets and other vessels ; but it is not likely ever to increase the national revenue, nor to improve the bordering districts, which, except a few specks here and there, are mountainous and in- capable of cultivation. The commissioners' 27th Report, states the total sum received in the previous year from tonnage rates at L. 2144, 17s. lid. ; and a sum of L. 169, 19s. 7d. arising from mis- cellaneous sources, increases the amount of receipts to L. 2314, 17s. 6d. The expenditure was L.d6d5, 9s. dd., leaving a balance against the canal of L. 1320, lis. 9d. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is inconveniently situated BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFF. 61 for the bulk of the inhabitants; it is distant from the eastern extre- mity scarcely two miles; but from the western extremity, in which the population is more than double, it is sixteen miles. It was built in 1777, and is at present in good repair, though uncomfort- able both for preacher and hearers, — being long and narrow, and resembling a bam more than a house meant for public worship. The walls and roof are bare, and only one-half of it has galleries. During the writer^s incumbency, L.570 have been bequeathed by four persons of the name Fraser ; and L. 70 more have been realized from fines recovered from delinquents. The interest of these sums is disbursed among the poor of Boleskine, to whom it is limited ; and the interest of L. 20 is divided among the Protestant poor of Abertarff. The parish church affords accommodation to 428 persons, and the one at Fort- Augustus to about 300. There is no rent paid for seats in the parish church ; but at Fort- Augustus there are a few seats belonging to the kirk-session, which are let for behoof of the poor. The galleries are understood to be Government property, and the rest belongs to private individuals. The manse was built in 1773, and, from its exposed situation, requires to be frequently repaired. The last repairs given to it were two years ago. It is incommodious and extremely uncomfortable. The extent of the glebe is 52 acres, 2 roods, 10 falls ; but of these upwards of 20 acres are rocks, stones, and worthless moor ; and the incumbent derives very little benefit from the residue, which is not properly enclosed, and is surrounded by tenants whose cat- tle and sheep constantly trespass and destroy the crop. As stated in the old Statistical Account, there were, till about sixty years ago, two glebes in the united parishes, — one near Fort- Augustus, on the banks of the Tarff, forming chiefly a level plot of ground without a stone or any impediment to interrupt a plough; and the other on the banks of Loch Ness, at the place peculiarly styled Boleskine, of easy tillage, and having some valuable wood of spontaneous growth in the hollow of some brooks. But an exchange was recommended, and effected, though not regularly, formally, or legally completed, if the record states the .transaction correct- ly ;' by this exchange, the legal guardians of the rights of the church sacrificed the comfort and interest of every succeeding incumbent; for the exchange has been from a charming spot and salubrious air, to heathy, stony, rocky ground — to an elevated position exposed 62 INVERNESS-SHIRE. to every blast that blows, without a tree to shelter, or a shrub to variegate the dreary inhospitable place. The amount of stipend, by decree of the Court of Teinds, is six- teen chalders of victual, half barley and half oatmeal; but as yet it is uncertain whether there are teinds in this parish to make this amount good. There is a missionary clergyman at Fort- Augustus, who is sup- ported from the Royal Bounty granted for the Reformation of the Highlands and Islands. There is a very snug, comfortable church there, originally built and kept in repair by voluntary subscrip- tion, to which Government a few years ago liberally contributed. There is a Popish meeting-house on the farthest farm west in the parish, adjoining Glengarry. The number of Papists in the parish is 318. What proportion of those attend their meeting-house, the writer does not know. There are no Dissenters or Seceders. In good weather, divine service at the Established church is ge- nerally pretty well attended. The average number of communi- C4UitH used to be about 280 ; but in 1831 there are not so many. liducation. — There are one parochial school and three other Hchools in the parish. In the parochial school, and in one of the other schools, the branches taught are, English and Gaelic read- ing, writing, arithmetic, Latin, and sometimes book-keeping. In the two other schools are taught English reading, and arith- metic The salary of the parish school is L. 30; garden allow- ance about L. 2, 2s. ; school fees L. 12. The emoluments of the other teachers consist entirely of school fees, and are both very small and precarious. The parochial teacher thinks he has not the legal accommodation. The expense of reading is 8s. in the year; reading and writing, 10s.; all other branches, 12s. The number of the young betwixt six and fifteen years of age who can- not read is 167. The number of persons upwards of fifteen years of age who cannot read is 451; of those who can read but cannot write, 235. The people in general have very inadequate notions of education, and do not continue their children at school long enough for their making any valuable progress. In a parish where the population is thin and scattered over so large an extent, there must be some so distant from school as to be unable to attend, particularly in winter, when, being least occu- pied with their vocations, they are most disposed to attend. One school at Fort- Augustus, with an efficient teacher, having a KINGUSSIE. 63 suitable salary, would be of incalculable betiefit; but the people are universally poor. Two other schools would be useful. There is another school in the parish with a salary of L. 7 for female children, who are taught English reading, writing, and sewing, on the establishment of the Society in Scotland for Propa- gating Christian Knowledge. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving aid from the funds under the management of the kirk- session is 41 ; and the average sum annually allotted to each is about 20s. Instead of being disinclined, they solicit to be receiv- ed on the poors roll, notwithstanding of the small pittance in the power of the distributors to bestow. The parish is not assessed for their maintenance, — so that they depend on casual and volun- tary charity, eked out by the produce of a plot of potato ground, given to every one of them. Fairs. — There are two fairs held annually at Fort- Augustus, in the beginning of June and end of September, for the sale of cattle chiefly. Pedlars and shoemakers from various quarters attend to dispose of their merchandise. There are besides occasional trysts, in spring and autumn, for black-cattle. WriUen September 1831. Revised February 1835. PARISH OF KINGUSSIE. PRESBYTERY OF ABERNETHY, SYNOD OF MORAY, THE REV. GEORGE SHEPHERD, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Ceannghiubhsaiche^ the Celtic term for Kingussie, ap- pears to have been adopted as the name of the parish, from its being so descriptive of the site of the parish church. It signifies the " Ter- mination or Head of the Fir Wood." When the name was given, the church stood upon a plain at the eastern extremity of a clump of wood, forming part of an immense forest of fir, which then co- vered the face of the country. Extent, Sfc. — Including hill and dale, the parish extends from east to west a distance of about 21 miles, and from north to soutk G4 INVERNESS-SHIRE. about 18; but from the extreme irregularity of its surface and figure, it is difficult to specify its precise extent in square miles. It is situated in the Lordship of Badenoch, and must undoubtedly rank among the most elevated and the most inland parishes in Scotland. The bed of the Spey is reckoned about 850 feet above the level of the sea. The parish is bounded on the east by Alvie; on the north by the united parishes of Moy and Delarossie ; on the west by Laggan ; and on the south by Blair in AthoU. Within the parish, the Monadhliadh * mountains stretch along the boundary for a considerable way, serving as a northern frontier, while the Grampians, rising in bold perspective in the distance, bound the parish to the south. Topographical Appearances. — Both these ranges are generally elevated, but contain no individual hills of sufiicient altitude to me- rit particular notice. From the Monadhliadh and Grampian hills^ the descent is pretty gradual, and terminates in an extensive valley of arable meadow land, intersected by the Spey, -which, with the narrow stripes along the various tributaries of that river, and the rising grounds to the south and north of it, forms most of the cul- tivated land of the parish, — the remainder consisting principally of bleak hills, covered chiefly with heath, and fitted only for pasturage. Meteorology. — The following results of a thermometrical regis- ter kept at Belleville in the neighbourhood, in 1821, has been hand- ed to me by Sir David Brewster: Belleville, latitude, 57.5"; longitude, 47. W ; annual mean temperature of the air, 44.3 ; mean temperature of the winter, 36.1; spring, 41.2; summer, 53.68; mean temperature in harvest, 46.67 ; mean temperature for month of October, 47.52. The prevailing winds in the parish are the west and north-east, the former geiberally accompanied with rain, and the latter with in- tense cold. In consequence of the great elevation of the parish, and its distance from the sea, the climate is cold and changeable, and subject, in the beginning and close of the season, to heavy dews and frost. These, although of late years much less frequent and less severe, still prove sometimes very injurious to the crops, espe- cially to potatoes, — an article of food upon which the peasantry in a great measure depend for subsistence. From the numerous marshes which at one time covered the low grounds, there arose an immense quantity of vapour, which, upon a depression of temperature, fell in the form of dew and frost upon the surrounding fields, carrying * Gray Mountain. KINGUSSIE. 65 certain ruin along with them. By the improyements in agriculture, however, these noxious influences have been to a great degree re- moved. The wet swampy lands^ have now nearly all given place to dry cultivated fields, — a circumstance which has benefited the country in regard at once to temperature, salubrity, and appearance. The prevailing distempers in the parish are inflammation, dropsy, apoplexy, and rheumatism. These are to be ascribed chiefly to the nature of the food upon which the peasantry in general subsist, and to the variableness and rigour of the climate. Hydrography. — Although the parish contains several lakes, scarcely any of them merit particular notice. Loch Errochd is a fine sheet of water, generally reckoned about sixteen miles long, but of these only about six lie within the boundaries of Kingussie. Throughout the greater part of this extent, the sce- nery is rather tame and bleak, — till towards the point where the parish terminates, when the banks assume a precipitous aspect, and are slightly wooded. None of the other lakes exceed a mile and a- half in length, by three quarters of a mile in breadth ; but, though small, they are by no means devoid of natural beauty. One of them. Loch Gynag, contains a small island, on which can be still traced the remains of what is said to have been a castle. The prin- cipal river is the Spey, which, as already noticed, intersects the parr rish. After leaving Laggan, where it has its rise, it meanders from west to east in a series of beautiful curves, for upwards of seven miles, through a rich vale slightly wooded with natural birch and alder. Its average velocity in this parish may be about three miles an hour. Its depth varies from 2 to 16 feet ; its width may be on an average, from 80 to 100 feet. The other rivers in the parish are the Truim, which, for a considerable distance, forms its western boundary ; the Tromie, which serves to divide it from Insh, on the east, both running in a northerly direction ; the Gynag and the Calder, which flow to the south ; all of these are tributary to the Spey. Most of them have their sources within the parish, and vary in length from 5 to 1 1 miles. The Spey, after a course of nearly 100 miles, discharges itself into the Moray Firth. The soil in the meadows, and along the banks of the several streams, consists in general of three strata. The upper of these is alluvial, and composed of a sort of sandy slime, covering a light loam^ which forms the second, — and this last generally incumbent on a bed of clay. The higher grounds are for the most part of a loamy nature, and generally intermixed with sand. The meadow grounds INVERNESS. E 66 INVERNESS-SHIRE. are of great extent, stretching along the Spey for its whole length in the parish, and extending on both sides of the river, in some places to three-quarters of a mile in breadth. They are likewise very deep and fertile, measuring in many places from 10 to 12 feet, and yield natural grass in great abundance, and in general of a fine quality. Many years ago, a mine of silver was discovered at a little distance from the church, but was never turned to any ac^ count. Some specimens also of silver and lead ores, have been found in the river Gynag before referred to, but in very small quan- tities. Zoology. — In common with the rest of the district, this parish was at one time much infested with vnld bears and wolves ; but these have long since disappeared, and none of the rarer kinds of animals are now to be found. The fishes caught in the rivers and lakes are, trout, pike, and salmon ; — the two first of which are pretty plentiful. Char appear in the Spey for about a fortnight in the month of October. Salmon come up to spawn about the end of August, and return towards the end of October, or begin- ning of November. Pike spawn in March ; and trout continue out in the small brooks, to which they go for the purpose of spawn- ing towards the end of September, till compelled to return by hard frost. The fresh-water mussel, containing pearls, is fished up in considerable quantities from the Spey. The forest of Gaick, the only one in the parish, abounds in deer, and is much frequented by sportsmen. It contains no wood, with the exception of here and there a few birch trees ; but the scenery is very wild and romantic. The plantations, of which there are several in the parish, of greater or less extent, consist chiefly of common fir and larch, interspersed with mountain-ash and oak. For these the soil seems well fitted ; but the species of wood to which it appears most congenial are, alder, hazel, and birch, which are found growing naturally in many parts of the parish. The most plentiful of these is birch, which covers extensively the rising grounds upon the southern bank of the Spey. II. — Civil History. Family of the Comyns. — The whole district of Badenoch, of which Kingussie is the central parish, was originally the property of the Comyns, who were at an early period of Scottish history one of the most wealthy and influential families in the kingdom. It is matter of doubt, at what time, and in what manner, this family, who came from England during the time of David I., acquired pos-* KINGUSSIE. 67 session of it; but we find John Comyn first Noticed as Lord of Ba- denoch as early as the reign of Alexander III. This nobleman, who was related to some of the former kings, laid claim to the crown upon the death of Margaret in 1291, but soon after withdrew his pretensions. Being the superior lord of Scotland, he was summon- ed by Edward I. to serve in his wars in Gascony.* He was suc- ceeded in his title and estates by his son, John, who was a brave and patriotic nobleman, and chosen one of the guardians of Scot- land about the year 1299. From this period down to the year 1305, we meet with incidental notices of this heroic character in his relation to Badenoch ; but the principal scenes of his life lay in the south. In 1302, with the assistance of another warrior, he successfully repelled the English forces near Roslin ;f and two years thereafter, he made a last fruitless struggle for Scottish in- dependence at Stirling ; but was obliged to yield, along with his country, to the overwhelming power of Edward 1. 1 In the suc- ceeding year, he fell a victim to the relentless fury of Bruce, after- wards King, for having discovered to Edward the designs of the former upon the crown of Scotland. For about nine years after Comyn's death, we find no mention of a successor to his lands or title. According to Fordun, soon after Bruce ascended the throne in 1306, he so weakened the influence, and reduced the numbers of the family of Comyn, that the name became almost extinct in the kingdom. In all probability, Badenoch, upon the murder of its original owner, was taken possession of by Bruce, as we find it -noticed among the lands belonging to him in Moray, which he erected into an earldom about the year 1314, and bestowed upon his nephew, Thomas Randolph, under the title of Earl of Moray. § In the hands of this nobleman, and his successors, it seems to have continued till the year 1371, or thereabouts, when it became the property of the family of Stuart, which was nearly allied to that of Bruce. Robert II., the grandson of Robert Bruce, and the first of the Stuarts who ascended the Scottish throne, con- stituted his fourth son, Alexander, his lieutenant from the southern boundaries of Moray to the Pentland Firth ; || in whom the title of Lord of Badenoch appears to have been first revived after Comyn's death. The ferocity of disposition, and predatory character of Alexander, soon gained for him the appellation of the Wolf of Badenoch. He resided for the most part at his castle of Ruthven, • Rymcr, Fcedcra, ii. 643- f Heningford. + Trivet, 334 ; Ryley, 369. § Survey of Province of Moray , p. 13. || Robertson's Index, 11%, 68 INVERNKSS-SHIRE. reared by the Comyns, on a green conical mound on the southern bank of the Spey, in this parish, — a situation chosen, no doubt, on account of its beauty and security, as well as for the exten- sive and delightful view which it commanded of the valley of the Spey. Here the Wolf, considering himself secure, and presum- ing upon his connection with the Crown, exercised a despotic sway over the inhabitants of his own immediate district, and spread terror and devastation everywhere around. His life was characterized throughout by the most cruel and savage conduct. It was he who, in 1390 and the following year, from some personal resentment against the Bishop of Moray, set fire to the towns of Forres and Elgin, which, with the magnificent cathedral, canons' houses, and several other buildings connected with the latter, he burnt to ashes, carry- ing off at the same time all that was valuable in the sacred edifice.* For this sacrilegious deed the Wolf suffered excommunication, — the effects of which he soon felt even in his den ; and having made what reparation he could to the see of Moray, he was subsequent- ly absolved, f The Wolf died not long after, in 1394, and was buried in the cathedral church of Dunkeld, where a Latin inscrip- tion was placed upon his tomb, f By the death of " Alastairmdr mac an Ri/jfh"§ which was a name sometimes applied to the Wolf, his possession fell to his natural son, Duncan, who seems to have inherited the vices as well as the property of his father. This is the last of the Stuarts connected with Badenoch of whom there is any account, written or traditional. The district some time after this period, passed into the hands of the first Earl of Huntly, who received part of it in 1452, for his valuable services to James H.in defeat- ing the Earl of Crawfurd at Brechin. The lands adjacent to the castle of Ruthven were given him at an earlier period ; || and the principal part of the Lordship continued in the hands of the Gordon family, till of late years, when some of it has been disposed of. Land-oumers. — The landholders of Kingussie at present are five in number : George Macpherson Grant of Ballindalloch ; James Baillie, Esq. merchant in Bristol ; Miss Macpherson of Belleville ; .Cluny Macpherson ; and Colonel George Gordon of Invertromie.^ • Wyntown, Vol. ii. 863. f Chart. Moravien. $ " Hie jacet Alexandei^ Senescallus filius Robcrti regis Scotorum, et Elizabethie More, Dominus de Buchan et Badenoch, qui obiit A. D. 1394." — Vide Scotichro- nicon, VoL ii. circa Goodall, Edinburgi, 1759. § Big Alexander, the King's son. y Survey of the Province of Moray, p. 17. 5. At the commencement of the present century, an occurrence took place, in a re- mote part of the parish, which will long be remembered by the Inhabitants. The story has found a place from time to time in several periodical works ; in some of which it 4 KINGUSSIE. 69 Eminent Men, — The parish has produced, at several timesi men who have distinguished themselves in the literary, but espe- has been related with great inaccuracy. The statement we are about to submit is in substance the account given by an elder of the parish, who was an eyewitness of most' of what he relates, and whose story is corroborated by other old people in the district. Early on the morning of Monday the 1st or 2d of January 1800, a mi. litary gentleman, who resided in the parish. Captain M*P accompanied by four attendants, went out a deer-stalking among the wild and rugged mountains that skirt the parish to the south. The immediate intention of this expedition, it is said, was to kill some game for a Christmas feast : and they took provisions with them sufficient to serve until the following Friday, on which day they had determined to return. They were to lodge in a house in the valley of Gaick, at that time unoccupied, but generally in the possession of herdsmen, who used to tend their flocks upon the surrounding pas- tures. This house was a very good and substantial building of stone, and probably mortar, with strong couples c^ wood, driven into the ground after the manner of some of the houses of this country, which are constructed in this way for the purpose of greater stability. It stood on rather a rising ground, at the foot of one of those lofty mountains with which the valley is almost surrounded, fronting nearly the north-west, and, from the peculiarity of its situation, combined with its strength, might have been thought secure from the utmost fury of a storm. The first two days after Captain M'P and his party left home, were very calm and frosty. Towards Wednesday evening, however, there came on a dreadful storm of wind and drifUng snow from the south-east, which increased throughout the night to a hurricane. This continued unabated till the morning and forenoon of Friday, when it gradually settled down again into fine weather. As the house in which Captain M'l' and his party were to lodge was known to be good, no fears were entertained of the slightest danger, till the circumstance of their non-appearance on Friday evening excited a suspicion that all could not be right. A messenger was accordingly despatched on Saturday morning to discover the cause of their delay, who, on coming near the place where the house had stood, was surprised to find that it had quite disappeared, while its site was covered with an immense depth of snow. This induced a strong dread that Captain M'P and his companions had all perished ; and the fiu;t of his having found a hat and powder-flask partially buried among the snow, which he immediately recog- nized as the property of some of the party, confirmed his fears. On communicating these particulars upon his return in the evening, a party of about twelve men collect- ed, and set off for the spot early on Sabbath morning. As they approached the place, the stones which had formed part of the waUs, along with the wood and divots of the roof, were seen among the snow between the house and the bottom of the valley, at various distances, some of them from two to three hundred yards from the house. The lintel of the door, which was a stone of large size, lay at least 150 yards distant. Nothing being seen but one extended bank of snow, with stones, wood, and turf, here and there rising through it, the men had the utmost difficulty in discovering the site of the building ; and it was only afler a diligent and fatiguing search of at least six hours, that they succeeded in discovering the only remaining vestige of it, under at least six feet depth of snow. What they discovered of the house, was a part of the back wall about a foot high, which had been preserved by its being sunk below the sur- rounding earth ; the rest of the house was completely swept away. Four of the Inxlics were found soon after, within the area of the building, cold and lifeless, and, from the position and other circumstances in which some of them were, it appeared that the un- fortunate men had been retiring to bed, or at least reclining, when the sad event befel them. Captain M*P was sitting with his coat off, upon the remains of a bed, leaning forward with his elbows upon his knees, and the one hand grasping the wrist of the other, which supported his head. Other two of the party lay in each other*s embrace, half out of bed, from which it would seem they had made a fruitless effort to escape, when they felt themselves in danger. A fourth of the bodies was lying upon the back, on the fragment that remained of a kind of long seat opposite to Cap- tain M*P , with one thigh broken, and covered with stones and turf. Two guns were also found in the middle of the floor, one of them bent, and, if our infor- mant recollects rightly, the other in pieces. The body of the remaining sufferer was not found till two or three months thereafter, when the snow had somewhat abated, lying at the distance of 200 yards, partly undressed* The«»e melancholy particulars, taken in connection with the supposed security of the situation, and the i!»iiddewTw«sv». 70 INVERNESS-SHIRE. cially in the military world. James Macpherson, Esq. the cele- brated translator of the poems of Ossian, and author of several original works in prose and vefse, was a native of this parish. He was bom in 1738, in the village of Ruthven, where he afterwards for some time taught the parish school. Mr Macpherson's lite- rary history is well known, and his talents as a writer universally acknowledged. His version of the bard of the Gael has acquired for him a high, extensive, and lasting fame. About the year 1790, he purchased a beautiful property lying chiefly in this, and partly in the neighbouring parish, to which he gave the name of Belle- ville. On this property he resided occasionally till the period of his death in 1796, when his remains were, at his own request, de- posited in the Poet's Corner of Westminster Abbey. His estates descended to his eldest son, who possessed them till he died in April ISaO, when they fell to his elder sister, who now enjoys thcjni. The natives of this parish, who have risen to high rank in the army, are so numerous, that it would be both tedious and use- Umn to particularize them. It has the honour of numbering among tRoHC, the late Lieutenant- General John Maclntyre of E. L C. S. and Sir John M'Lean, who is still alive,— the former born at Knap- nuch, the latter at Pitmain, men who have eminently distingufshed themselves in the service of their country. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers up to the year 1724> were unfortunately burnt, so that the earliest entry of those exist- ing is dated at that period. The earlier parts of the records now of the calamity, led the common people in the country to refer it to some supernatu- ral agency, or at least to the shock of an earthquake or to lightning. But an avalanche^ or fall of snow, seems to account for all the circumstances connected with it. llie im- mense bank of snow referred to as involving the building lay in a straight line from the foot of a very steep part at the top of the hill, to very near a stream which mean- dered at its base. The snow was very broad and deep throughout, but gradually de- creased in depth as it approached its termination below. Beyond the boundaries of this bank, the snow was quite thin on all sides, and in a few days was completely gones. The rubbish of the house, as well as the body last found, all lay in the direction of the valley below ; the bodies of Captain M*P and another of the party, were in- clined in this direction also ; clearly indicating that the force which destroyed them operated in the direction of a line from the top of the hill to its base ; and it is known that the wind blew with terrific violence in this direction likewise, which would of course greatly augment the weight and force of the falling snow. The notion of an avalanche being the cause of the sad catastrophe, is further supported by the fact, that in the interval between the time of its occurrence and the discovery of the body last found, in the middle of spring, an immense body of snow fell from the same hill, and rested immediately at the l)ack of where the house had stood, and in all probability would have proceeded farther, had it not been stopped by the opposing force of the snow that fell before, which was still very deep. This lump measured 24 feet deep by 16 broad. And several years thereafter, a similar fall from a hill about a mile to the east, had force sufficient to break ice of a foot thick, which covered a small lake l)clow, and to dash the water of it to a considerable distance upon the opposite hill. The event now described eicited a deep interest among all classes. .«> KINGUSSIE. 71 extant were regularly kept, and are very voluminous. The later books have been also regularly preserved, but are neither large nor numerous, and contain few minutes of session of any great interest. Antiquities. — Among the antiquities of the parish, may be no- ticed the remains of the barracks of Ruthven, which stand upon a conical mound, thought to be partly natural, partly artificial, upon the southern bank of the Spey, on the site of the old castle of Ruthven, the seat of the Lords of Badenoch. The present build- ing, which is now in a dilapidated state, began to be built by Government about the year 1718, for the purpose of keeping the country in subjection after the rebellion of 1715. It consisted of two parallel buildings of equal length, running nearly east and west, connected by two of much less height lying in a trans- verse direction, and forming a complete square, large enough, it is said, to accommodate two companies of men. There was, be- sides, a pretty large house which served the purpose of a stable for a number of horses. The party who were stationed here joined Cope when on his march to Inverness in 1745) with the exception of a Serjeant and twelve men, who were left to defend the barracks in case of an attack by the rebels. In the following month, these few kingsmen gave a successful resistance to a body of 200 insur- gents. In February of the succeeding year, this small band sustained a severe attack from 300 rebels, headed by Gordon of Glenbucket, and, after a brave defence of three days, obtained an honourable capitulation.* Not long thereafter, the insur- gents set fire to the building, and all that now remains of it is but a mouldering pile, fast sinking into decay. Ruthven of Badenoch is known as well for its antiquity as its celebrity in history. It is one of the few places in the north mentioned by Ptolemy, in his Geographical Account of Britain, about the year 140. This an- cient Greek writer says, it is situated in the province of Moray, and gives it the name of Bavaria. — There are still to be seen in the parish the faint traces of a building said to have been a priory ; but little is known respecting it. There was also a monastery, of which no satisfactory account can be given. " The parish con- tains, likewise, some Druidical circles, and the appearance of a Roman encampment. This last is situated on a moor between the Bridge of Spey and Pitmain. In clearing some ground adja- cent, an urn was found full of burnt ashes, which was carefully • Survey of Province of Moray, p. 258. 72 INVERNESS-SHIRE. preserved, and is still extant. A Roman tripod was also found some years ago, concealed in a rock, and is deposited in the same hands with the urn."* Where the last two relics of antiquity now are, we have not discovered. III. — Population. The population, at least for a good many years back, has gra- dually increased. At the date of the last Statistical Account, it amounted to 1803, and at the successive Parliamentary surveys of 1811, 1821, 1831, the respective results were, 1981, 2004, and 2080; of the last of which numbers, 941 were males, and 1139 females. In 1833, however, the district of Insh, which previously formed part of this parish, was erected into a separate charge, quoad sacra^ and, consequently, its population comes now to be de- ducted. This deduction leaves for Kingussie, by a survey com- pleted in October 1833, a population of 721 males, and 912 fe- males, total, 1633. The increase observable at the successive dates of census, greatly owing, no doubt, to the erection of vil- lages, which have attracted people from the neighbouring parishes, would probably have been much greater, were it not for emigra- tion, and the want of sufficient employment for the young of the working classes and for tradesmen, who are in consequence obliged to seek the means of a livelihood elsewhere, and chiefly in a fo- reign land. No fewer than eighty souls left the united parish in 1833 for America. The inhabitants are distributed in the fol- lowing proportions : Residing in villages, 704 ; in the country, 929. The annual average of births for the last seven years is 47 ; of mar- riages, 13. No register of deaths is kept. Number of persons under J 5 years of age, 574 between 15 and 30, 405 so and 50, 350 50 and 70, 249 upwards of 70, 55 Total, - ^ - 1633, as above. There are but few people of independent fortune amongst us. Each of the five landholders possesses property in the parish to a much greater amount than L. 50. The number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of fifty years of age is 25 ; and of unmarried women, upwards of forty-five, 62. As the census of 1831 was taken before the disjunction of Insh from Kingussie, the following particulars, extracted from that census, must be given for * Old Statistical Account. KINGUSSIE. 73 both as united : Number of families, 481 ; average number of children in each family, probably about 4. Number of inhabited houses, 440; number uninhabited, 16; building, 10. There are 1 fatuous and 1 blind person in the parish. The number of fami- lies chiefly employed in agriculture is 152 ; in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 100. The language of the common people is Gaelic, but most of the young, and many of the old inhabitants understand Enghsh: among the better classes, the latteris preferred. The Gaelic has lost ground very much within the last forty years ; and it is highly probable the time is not very far distant when it will cease to be a living language in this part of the country. The dress of the people is assuming much of the lowland cast ; and the once characteristic garb is now seldom used, but on extraordinary occasions, or by young children. The common food of the peasantry consists of potatoes, and oat- meal in its various preparations, with now and then a little butcher- meat, cheese, and milk. Character^ §"c. of the People. — It is true that the young of the poorer sort are now more inured to labour, and more willing to en- gage in it, than they once were, — and that the march of improve- ment in agriculture and knowledge has been accompanied with many advantages, — as in the erection of villages which have in- creased the facility of disposing of their little country produce, and brought in return the necessaries, and some of the comforts, of life to their doors. Still from the shortness of most of their leases, — the non-residence of some of the proprietors, which drains the country of money, — the still uncertain state of their crops, and the length of land carriage, which is at least forty-six miles, the com- mon people continue in a very poor and uncomfortable state. They have many good qualities of character. The bravery of many of them has been well proved, and they maintain a high reputation for hospitality and politeness. But these virtues are too often found in union with vices, by which their value is much impaired : and quarrelling, intemperance, and an artfulness of address, are still features in their character. We have, however, pleasure in adding, that these defects, especially the two first, are now less fre- quent, than when the last Account was written. The facilities now afforded for acquiring a good education, and consequently of read- ing and hearing the Scriptures read, are obviously producing, by the blessing of God, a salutary impression ; religious principle is ac- quiring a greater sway over the conduct, and, while there is but too 74 INVERNESS-SHIRE. much reason to complain of insincerity even in religious profession, and of mere formality in religious observances, there are still, com- paratively speaking, but few instances of open profanation, and of a marked contempt of the ordinances of religion. Smuggling, which at one time prevailed to a great extent, and tended more to demo- ralize the people than any thing ever introduced into the country, has been of late years entirely abandoned, and a sensible ameliora- tion in the morals of the inhabitants has in consequence taken place. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish, so far as known to the writer, not having at any time undergone a regular measurement, no statement to be relied upon can be given of the relative quantities of land, arable or uncultivated, or of the number of acres which may be un- der wood. It may be mentioned, however, that it must always be more a pastoral than an agricultural parish ; and, consequently, the land susceptible of regular culture is, comparatively speaking, but of limited extent. The greater part of it now consists of large sheep walks. The management of plantations, in respect of prun- ing and thinning, is pretty good ; and they are in a very thriving condition. Rent of Land. — Land rents at an average of from L. 1, 5s. to L. 1, 10s. per acre, so far as we can ascertain. Rate of Wages. — Day-labourers receive in summer Is. per day with, and Is. 6d. without, victuals ; * and women 6d. or 9d., ac- cording as they supply themselves with food or not; when en- gaged at harvest work, they receive Is. per day, vrith victuals. Mason's work, at from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d., when hired by the day, and carpenters at 2s. Carpenter work, per yard of roofing or flooring, including materials, 3s. 6d., and per foot of windows, including glass, 2s. 6d. ; mason work, per rood, materials included, L. 6, 10s. or exclusive of materials, L. 2. Plasterers work. Is. 6d. per yard ; slaters, L. 6 per rood, both including materials ; blacksmiths when hired by the day receive in general about 2s. 6d. Prices of Provisions. — Oatmeal on an average of seven years has sold for about 20s. the boll, of nine stones ; bear or big-meal, the same as oatmeal, with ten stones to the boll : beef, 6d. or 6d. per lb. ; mutton, 6d. per ditto ; cheese, 7s., and butter 18s., the stone of 24 lbs. Husbandry. — The sheep reared here are generally of the black- faced kind, with a very few Cheviots for family use; and the cattle consist chiefly of the Highland, with a few of the Ayrshire breed.. 3 KINGUSSIE. 75 The system of agriculture followed by all the respectable tenantry is the modern one of cropping by rotation ; but the crofters and poorer tenants, partly from their aversion to the new scheme, and partly from their indigent circumstances, still pretty generally ad- here to the old plan. The villagers of Kingussie, however, form an exception to this remark. Some of the feuars in this village farm with great spirit and taste, according to the most approved system ; — in consequence of which, the lands in its vicinity have been brought to a state of high cultivation. The proprietors, we understand, are desirous to introduce the new mode of farming over all their estates, and some of them have taken their tenants bound, that, at the expiry of the leases lately granted, the farms shall all be put under a regular rotation. Of late years, much has been done in the way of reclaiming waste land, embanking and draining; and the improvements in this way are still proceeding. The general length of leases, when such are granted, is nine or ten years ; a number of the smaller tenants, however, hold their possessions from year to year, which is certainly unfavourable to improvement. The capabilities of the lower grounds are generally very great, and under the management of skilful and industrious tenants, with a mode- rate capital, and leases of sixteen or nineteen years, might, notwith- standing all disadvantages, be turned to excellent account. Some sheep-farmers have leases of fifteen years ; and one tenant holds his farm for nineteen years. The farm-buildings of the better classes are good, but those of the poorer sort are very indifferent. The enclosures consist chiefly of stone, and some of them of turf; those of the former kind are very substantial. The writer has not been able to obtain an accurate account of the amount and value of the raw produce yearly raised in the pa- rish. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication^ Sfc, — The nearest market-town is In- verness, at a distance of forty-six miles. There are two villages in the parish, both of which are on the increase. Kingussie, the larger of these villages, contains a post-oflice, through which there is a regular communication, both with the south and north, thrice a-week. The great Highland road from Perth to Inverness pas- ses through the parish, extending in the directions of south and north, a distance of sixteen miles ; upon which the Caledonian coach runs daily, either south or north, between the towns just mentioned. There are regular carriers once a-week from Kin- 76 INVERNESS-SHIRE. gussie to Inverness and Perth by this road also, — ^which in sum- mer is very much frequented by travellers, being the most direct communication between the northern Highland counties and the south of Scotland. It crosses the Spey four miles above the village of Kingiysie, by a large brici^, which is in excellent repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands in the village of Kingussie, on a beautiful wooded eminence, about a mile and a-half from the eastern verge of the parish. Its situation is by no means centrical, — though, on the whole, convenient enough for the great body of the population. Although built so late as the year 1792, it is now in such a state as to require a thorough repair and ad- dition : or rather perhaps a new one should be built. In its pre* sent form, it is by far too small for the population, affording ac- commodation only for between 600 and 700 persons. The church seats follow the farms upon the several estates, and the villagers pay for their seats to the tenantry who have any to spare. There is no manse in the parish, but an annual sum is allowed by the heritors in lieu of one. The glebe contains upwards of forty acres, and is very capable of being improved; and when the improvements which are now going on shall have been completed, it will be worth about L. 50 per annum. The present incumbent has planted upwards of 3000 young trees upon it, and got the whole enclosed. The stipend by a late augmentation is sixteen chalders, half meal, half barley, pay- able in money, with L. 10 for communion element money. There are do missionaries, no chapels of ease, and no Dissenting chapels of any kind, except a Baptist meeting-house ; and the Government church at Insh, formerly connected with this parish, has been late- ly converted into a parish church, and the charge, as already re- marked, rendered, quoad sacra, separate and independent. There being no Dissenters of any kind, with the exception of a few Bap- tists, and one Roman Catholic family, there is in consequence a full attendance at the Established church. The average number of communicants is upwards of 200. Several years ago, a Bible and School Society was established by the parishes of Kingussie, and Insh, and Laggan ; the contri- butions of which are given to those religious institutions, which furnish Bibles at a cheap rate to the country, and aid in the esta- blishment of schools. To this society, the parish of Kingussie con- tributes at an average, from L. 22 to L. 23 per annum. There KINGUSSIE. 77 are besides, occasional collections in aid of the Northern Infir- mary. There is a catechist in the parish, with a salary of L. 20, one- half of which is paid by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and the other half by the present iij^umbent Education. — In the parish, there are, the parochial school, — two seminaries supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, one of which is a female school, — and one supported by the Glasgow Auxiliary Society : and in the Insh district, one school supported by the General Assembly's Committee. There is also an infant school maintained by individual subscription. Besides these, there have been for some years past, two aid schools during the winter and spring months, in remote and necessitous parts of the parish, supported by the Inverness Education Society. The salary of the teacher of the infant school is L. 10, besides some perquisites ; and the branches taught are, English reading, writing, sewing, and knitting. Latin and mathematics are taught at the parochial school. . The salary of the parish schoolmaster is the maximum : that of the teacher appointed by the General Assembly's Committee, L. 20 ; of the Society's teacher, L. 15 per annum. The parochial teacher is in the annual receipt of about L. 16 for school fees. The schoolmaster furnished by the Glasgow Auxiliary Society re- ceives L. 14 from that society, and L. 8 from the people of the district in which he teaches for school fees. The parochial school- master has the accommodation required by law ; and the heritors, in the most handsome manner, came forward some years ago, and erected a large and commodious school-house, far beyond the legal requirement. There is scarcely any part of the parish so distant as not to be within the reach of one or other of the schools we have mentioned ; and the people seem in general anxious for the benefits of education to their children, provided they can be obtained at a cheap rate. The number of young people betwixt six and fifteen years of age who cannot read or write amounts to about 39. The schools are obviously producing a very beneficial effect; Literature, — About four years ago, a Subscription Circulating Library was established in the village of Kingussie, and consists now of upwards, of 300 volumes, comprising books in divinity, his- tory, and general literature. Besides this, there is a small library for the benefit of the scholars connected with the parish school. 78 INVERNESS-SHIRE. containing nearly seventy volumes, which are eagerly read, and found to be of great use to the rising generation. There is also a library connected with the General Assembly's school at Inverness. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of paupers in the parish is 6Q, — who receive aid from the funds according to their several necessities, from 2s. 6d. to L. 1 per annum. The amount realized annually for church collections may be about L. 27. The funds derived from the fines of delinquents are very variable. These sources of relief, along with common begging, are the only ones known here ; assessment for the support of the poor has never yet been resorted to in this country. In regard to the disposition manifested by those dependent upon parochial aid, it must be stated, that they are rather anxious to procure it than otherwise, and that the degradation seems to be fully compensated in their eyes, by the accession to their comforts which it confers. It ought, how- ever, to be remarked, that none but those who are really needful obtain any assistance. Prisons. — In 1806, a house was erected in the village of Kin- gussie, consisting of a neat court room, for holding the meetings of the district, and two cells for the confinement of ofienders, where they are detained only till they can be conveyed to the county prison. Tliese cells by a late repair have been rendered very se- cure; they are kept by a jailor, who is accountable to the authori- ties of the district. We are not aware that there has been a single prisoner during the last year. Fairs. — There are commonly five or six markets in the parish throughout the year ; the principal one of which is held in June for selling wool, lambs, &c. Another is held in November for set- tling accounts, and engaging servants ; and a third in February. Other three are held for buying and selling cattle, at different times, so as to suit dealers passing from the southern and northern markets. Inns and Alehouses. — The parish contains two inns, and ten or eleven alehouses, — the effects of which, especially of the ale- houses, upon the morals of the people, are certainly of a perni- cious tendency. •• Fuel. — The common fuel used here is peat, procured, at a very great expense, from mosses in some places four and five miles dis- tant. KINGUSSIE. 79 Miscellaneous Observations. Within the last forty years, the parish has undergone many im- portant alterations in its physical as well as its moral character. Great part of the bleak and barren land, formerly supposed fit to be only the abode of wild beasts, has been brought under cultivation. Although the parish, as before noticed, must always be more a pas- toral than an agricultural one, and though the utmost extent of im- provable soil is and must always be far exceeded by the extent of mountain and other land incapable of cultivation, still were the part of the parish, which can be cultivated, to be brought under a system of regular rotation, it might be nearly, if not entirely adequate to the supply of the wants of the population, a good which has never yet been accomplished. Nothing has proved more ruinous to this parish than the necessity of bringing meal from other districts, with the additional expense of a long land- carriage. Since the date of the last Statistical Account, regular carriers have been established, and roads made in various direc- tions, by which intercourse can be carried on with ease between the several parts of the district, as also between this and the neigh- bouring countries ; indeetd, there is now no district in the High- lands better accommodated with roads. The coach before -men- tioned as running through the parish, has been established, too, within the same period. Forty years ago, " there was not a vil- lage in the parish or in the whole district ;" * there are now two in this parish alone ; of a combined population of upwards of 700. Onet^f these villages contains thirteen or fourteen merchants, who deal in almost every necessary commodity, and there are several others throughout the parish ; circumstances which present a strik- ing difference from the state of things when there was but one or at most two merchants in the whole district The village above mention- ed contains, besides, a number of mechanics and tradesmen. Near- ly half a century has witnessed a great change likewise in the in- habitants themselves. The melioration discernible in their moral character has been noticed. The Highland garb will soon entire- ly disappear. The Gaelic language, too, besides having materially lost ground, has suffered considerably from the intermixture with English words and phrases, — as the latter language is now gene- rally understood by the rising generation. But the difference between the state of matters now, and that which existed at the * Old Statistical Account. 80 INVERNESS-SHIRE. time in question, is in nothing more apparent or more pleas- ing, than in the increased facilities of education. The means of instruction have been rendered accessible to the poorest, and, with the exception, perhaps, of a few solitary instances, to the most remote of our population. There was but one, the parish school, at the time of the former Statistical Account. In some of the present schools, but more particularly in those conducted on the Sabbath evenings, several aged people have been taught to read, with an ease and accuracy credible only by those who have heard them ; while the general diffusion of knowledge, and the comparative fewness of those who are unable to read, furnish a most pleasing contrast to the gloomy picture of two score years ago, when the "greater number of the people were so illiterate, that they could neither read nor write."* In conclusion, we would only remark, that, were the old sys- tem of smaller and more numerous possessions returned to, which has been of late years relinquished for that of large extensive sheep-walks, and were the system we recommend, to be adopted in connection with the approved mode of agriculture, in regard to the arable land, the change would tend greatly to prevent emigra- tion, and contribute much to the happiness and the prosperity of the country at large. * Old Statistical Account* February 1835. PARISH OF ALVIE. PRESBYTERY OF ABERNETHY, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. JOHN MACDONALD, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish derives its name from the small peninsula that constitutes the Glebe, and on which the church and manse are built The etymology given of Alvie in the former Statisti- cal Account is not in the least probable, and must have been ha- zarded without a careful examination of the Celtic name. The name is in Gaelic pronounced Ealgbhi^ sounding bh like v in Eng- lish; a word compounded of ealabh, swans, and i, an island, which, correctly translated, signifies the island of swans. What tends in a great measure to establish this etymology is, that the lake of Alvie, from time immemorial, has been annually visited by a number of swans in the spring season. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish consists of two divisions, separated by the river Spey. The largest and the most populous of those divisions, situated on the north-west side of that river, mav be considered a parallelogram, of which the longest side may mea- sure 10, and the shortest 6 miles ; it is bounded on the south-east bv the Spey ; on the north-west by the parish of Moy ; on the south- west by the parish of Kingussie ; and on the north-east by the parish of Duthel. The other division of the parish, situated on the opposite side of Spey, extends from north to south in the form of a rhomboid, of which the longest sides may measure about 10, and the shortest 2^ miles ; it is bounded on the east by Rothiemur- chus; on the west by the Insh district of Kingussie; on the north by the Spey ; and on the south by the parish of Blair. The surface covered by the parish of Alvie may be computed at 84 square miles. The parts of the Grampian mountains, at which the southern ex- tremity of the parish terminates, form the highest hills in Scotland, being ascertained, by actual measurement, to be 4500 feet above the level of the sea. The mountains forming the north-west boun- dary of the parish are considerably lower than the Grampians ; but, INVERNESS. F 82 INVERNESS-SHIRE. as these have not been measured, their elevations above the level of the sea cannot be correctly stated. Meteorology. — According to a register kept by Sir David Brews- ter at Belleville, about 700 feet above the level of the sea, the mean temperature of 1834 was about 45°, and the hour of mean temperature about 7^ 33" a. m., and 6** 47' p. m. The prevail- ing winds in this parish, and over the whole valley of Badenoch, are the south-west and north-east. In the immediate vicinity of the Grampians, through the narrow valley of Glenfeshie, the wind some- times blows down from the hills in violent gusts, resembling the hur- ricanes of tropical climates, — unroofing houses, tearing the largest trees from the root, and carrying all loose substances in its progress irresistibly before it. There is no other wind that claims particular notice, if we except the whirlwind, which occurs seldom, and only in the summer season. The ignorant country people, particularly the old, who are strongly wedded to the absurd superstitions of their venerated ancestors, consider the whirlwind as indicative of a procession of the imaginary beings called fairies. This supersti- tion, however, is wearing fast away ; and it is probable that in less than half a century, not a trace of it will remain, providing the pro- gress of education shall not be obstructed by the failure of adequate means to support the schools at present so extensively in operation. The venerable Principal Baird, whose labours of love will be long remembered with heartfelt gratitude in the Highlands of Scotland, has contributed, by his benevolent exertions, in an eminent degree to the expulsion of fairies from the Highland hills. The Strath of Badenoch being at this place probably not less than 650 feet above the level of the sea, it cannot be expected that there should be the same quantity of genial warmth as iu lower situations. There is nothing in which the inferiority of the climate is, in these respects, so perceptible as in the partial and often total failure of orchard fruit, such as apples, pears, and plums, &c. which never ripen suflSciently in any garden in this parish, except on wall-trees. But when the ground is well culti- vated and manured, there are as rich crops of corn raised in this parish, though somewhat later in ripening, as in any district of the low country. The circumstances connected with the climate most unfavourable to the produce of the soil are, the long continu- ance of frost in the month of May, and the early visit of mildew in the month of August. The former retards vegetation, and oc- casions a late harvest; the latter, by blasting potatoe crops and ALVIE. 83 green corn, often disappoints the industrious farmer's expectation, even when built upon the most promising appearance. The cli- mate has, however, of late been much improved, for neither frost nor mildew have done any harm for the last seven years. Diseases, — The diseases most prevalent in the parish are scrofula, dropsy, and palsy. These diseases, which are chiefly confined to the poorer class of the people, have not the most dis- tant connection with any peculiarity in the climate ; for though the air is keen and sharp, it is salubrious in a very high degree ; as a proof of which, strangers who come to the country in delicate health, after a few weeks' residence in the bosom of the hills, be- come vigorous and healthy. The principal cause to which the prevalence of those diseases may probably be ascribed, is a poor watery diet, consisting, for the most part, of vegetable substances, such as potatoes, kail, turnips, &c. which, without a due propor- tion of animal food to correct their natural tendency, relax the so- lids, vitiate the blood, and bring on at last a general debility of the system. Hydrography. — There are no springs in this parish that merit particular notice. The only lake is Loch Alvie, if we except Loch Inch, formed by the Spey, the one-half of which may be said to be within the parish of Alvie. The length of Loch Alvie, which almost surrounds the glebe, may be computed at a mile; the breadth half a mile ; and the greatest depth 65 feet or 1 1 fa- thoms. Its temperature, for want of a proper instrument to ascer- tain it, cannot be correctly stated. The Spey is the only river passing through the parish. Its source is in the Braes of Bade- noch, near the border of Lochaber, at a distance of not less than 30 miles from this place. Its mean breadth may be reckoned at 50 yards; the average depth of the deepest pools at from 10 to 12 feet ; and its length from its source to Garmouth cannot be less than 100 miles. The direction of the Spey is nearly from west to east. From the south-west extremity of the parish to Loch Inch, a distance of five miles, the course of the Spey is slow and gentle ; but from Loch Inch to the other extremity of the pa- rish, it flows with considerable rapidity. Geology and Mineralogy, — This parish does not furnish much matter for geological researches. Under this head, therefore, the following information, in popular rather than scientific terms, must suffice. The mountains of this parish are composed solely of gneiss, which is intersected with veins of granite and red porphyry, of 84 INVERNESS-SHIRE.* which there are fine specimens in the Burn of Raitts at Belleville, liimestone is quarried at Dunachton, a part of Mackintosh's pro- perty, and veins of lead occur in the gneiss in the Burn of Raitts, and at Tyncaim, both on the property of Belleville. The granite is of two kinds, red and white. The red granite is harder and more durable, but the white is preferred in building, because it is more easily dressed. The soil of this parish is in general light, and the substratum either sand or gravel, with the exception of meadow ground on the banks of Spey, where the soil is in some places very deep, lying on a substratum of clay. Botany. — The only herb of rare occurrence peculiar to this parish is the Nymphea alba, or white water-lily, which grows abundantly in the Lake of Alvie. On the north side of Loch Alvie, a consi- derable way up the hill, and on the moors of Belleville, is to be found the Betula nana, or dwarf birch, a rare plant, which has not been elsewhere discovered in this country. The French willow also grows on the rock behind the house of Belleville. The trees indigenous to the soil of this parish are, birch, alder, mountain-ash, oak, hazel, pine, and aspen tree. Plantations. — On the south-west side of Kinrara, the delightful and romantic residence of the late Duchess of Gordon, her Grace, upwards of thirty years ago, planted an extensive piece of barren moor, chiefly with Scots firs, mingled with some larch trees, that now combine shelter with ornament A few years later, she plant- ed, on the north-east side of Kinrara, a piece of equally barren ground, and nearly of the same extent, with the same kind of wood, which is considerably advanced in growth. The present Duchess of Gordon, following the example of her illustrious predecessor, planted another piece of ground a few years ago, between the Spey and the approach to the cottage of Kinrara, with larch, spruce, and Scotch firs, which are very thriving. Several years before the late Duchess of Gordon began her plantations, James Macpherson, Esq. M. P., the celebrated translator of Ossian's poems, planted several clumps of larch and Scotch firs at Belleville, by which, be- sides the shelter they afibrd, the appearance of the place is beau- tified, and much improved. Mr Macpherson also planted about 200 acres of the same wood, now grown to a large size, on a rock called Craigbuie. II. — Civil History. Historical events, Sfc. — The only historical occurrence of any , interest or importance that has taken place in this parish within ALVIE. 85 the memory of man, is an incident connected with the retreat of some rebels through the parish after the battle of CuUoden. These rebels, after the defeat of the Pretender's army, being reduced to the last extremity, applied to the Rev. Mr William Gordon, then minister of Alvie, for relief. Mr Gordon feelingly sympathised with them in their sufferings, received them hospitably into his house, and humanely afforded them all the relief in his power. Informa- mation was directly conveyed to the Duke of Cumberland, then stationed at Inverness, that the minister of Alvie favoured the rebel- lion by harbouring rebels in his house, and Mr Gordon was in con- sequence summoned to appear before the Duke of Cumberland at Inverness, to answer for his conduct, — when he fearlessly addressed the Duke to the following effect: " May it please your Royal High- ness, I am exceedingly straitened between two contrary commands, both coming from very high authority. My Heavenly King's Son commands to feed the hungry, to clothe the naked, to give meat and drink to my very enemies, and to relieve, to the utmost of my power, all objects in distress indiscriminately, that come in my way. My earthly king's son commands me to drive the houseless wanderer from my door, to shut my bowels of compassion against the cries of the needy, and to withhold from my fellow mortals in distress the relief which is in my power to afford. Pray, which of these com- mands am I to obey ?" — " By all means," replied the Duke, " obey the command of your Heavenly icing's Son ; your character is very different from what it has been represented ; go home in peace, act conformably to the benevolent spirit of that Gospel which you are professedly employed to preach and to explain." Thus ended an interview, from which a very different result had been anticipated ; in a manner equally honourable to the character, both of the hum- ble pastor of the parish of Alvie, and the illustrious Commander- in-Chief. Eminent Characters, 8^c. — The parish of Alvie, although situat- ed in a remote Highland glen, has been honoured for nearly half a century, particularly during the last forty years, with the occa- sional residence and frequent visits of distinguished personages. The late Duchess of Gordon, upwards of thirty years ago, se-. lected for her summer residence, Kinrara, a romantic situation, within less than two miles from the church of Alvie, where she usually resided every year during the remainder of her life, from the beginning of July to the beginning of November. In that de- lightful residence, to which her Grace was enthusiastically at- 86 INVERNESS-SHIRE. tached, she was frequently visited by ladies and gentlemen of the first distinction in both kingdoms. Her remains were brought, at her own' desire, from London, where she died, and inter- red at Kinrara, on the 12th day of May 1812, in a spot of ground which she often pointed out in the course of her walks, as the place where she wished her mortal remains to lie. This spot is marked by a monument erected by her husband, the late Duke of Gordon, constructed of beautiful hewn granite selected among the Grampian mountains, some of them at a distance of more than twenty miles. Soon after the decease of the Duchess of Gordon the Marquis and Marchioness of Huntly took possession of Kinrara, where for several years they resided annually from the beginning of August to the beginning of November, and were visited during that period by their numerous noble friends, from all parts of the kingdom. ♦ Since the Marquis succeeded to the Dukedom of Gordon, their annual visits to Kinrara have been discontinued, and the place has boon let for shooting-quarters to Sir George Sitwell, Baronet. Belleville, a district of this parish, has been rendered classical ground by the residence of James Macpherson, Esq. the collector and translator of Ossian's Poems. By his literary works, Mr Macpherson raised himself from the humble situation of a paro- chial schoolmaster to a distinguished reputation among men of let- ters, and realised an ample fortune, by which he was enabled to purchase a good deal of landed property in his native country. His remains were carried from Belleville, where he died, to West- minster Abbey, and deposited, agreeably to his own particular in- struction, in Poefs Comer. Belleville is now the residence of Sir David Brewster, whose scientific acquirements entitle him to no- tice here, and to whom the writer of this account is indebted for some important information. It is unnecessary to add, that Sir David is a valuable acquisition to the society of this remote but beautiful Highland glen, where he enjoys ease with dignity. Land-owners. — According to Mr Shaw, in his history of the pro- vince of Moray, the Barony of Dunachton came into the possession of the Laird of Mackintosh about the year 1500, by his marrying the heiress, daughter of the Baron of Dunachton. Here Mackintosh had a castle, which was burnt in the year 1689, and was never rebuilt South Kinrara and Dalnavert, the remaining part of Mackintosh's • In autumn 1821, Kinrara was honoured by a visit from Prince Leopold, now King of Belgium ; where he remained ten days, highly gratified with the princely entertainment of Kinrara cottage. ALVIE. 87 property in this parish, commonly called Davochs of the Head, are a part of the compensation given for the head of William the 15th laird of Mackintosh, who was beheaded by order of the Earl of Huntly in the year 1550, when he was paying a friendly visit at Huntly Castle. The lands of Belleville, purchased by the transla- tor of Ossian, were formerly the property of Ned Mackintosh of Borlam, the leader of an infamous gang of robbers, who was ap- prehended, but fled from justice upwards of sixty years ago. The properties of Invereshie and Belleville were held in feu of the Duke of Gordon, till a few years ago, when the superiority was purchased from the late Duke. Parochial Register. — The oldest parochial register of this pa- rish commences in the year 1713, has been very irregularly kept, and throws little or no light on the civil history of the parish. Du- ring the periods in which it was kept with tolerable regularity, it is filled up with disagreeable narratives of sexual immoralities and public exhibitions of feigned repentance on the cutty^stooL Antiquities. — Contiguous to the barrows or tumuli mentioned in the former Statistical Account, there is an extensive plain on which a bloody battle is said to have been fought; but with respect to the cause of-the battle, the time when it was fought, the clan or clans of which the conflicting armies were composed, and the leaders that commanded them, tradition is silent. At Delfour, about a mile west from the church of Alvie, are to be seen the remains of a Druidical cairn, inclosed by a circle of large stones closely set up on end, 55 feet in diameter. Within this circle, and concentric to it, is another circle, similarly inclosed, with stones less in size, 25 feet in diameter. At the distance of 25 feet west from the cairn stands an obelisk, 8 feet 6 inches high, 5 feet broad at the bottom, and 15 inches thick, diminishing gra- dually in breadth from the bottom, till it terminates at the top in 6 inches. Whether this obelisk had any connection with the ido- latry practised at the cairn contiguous to it, or whether it was placed to mark the grave of some distinguished personage, is not known. Such, however, is the veneration in which these relics of an- tiquity are held even at the present day, that although both the cairn and the obelisk stand in the middle of an arable field, and oc- casion a considerable interruption to the operation of the plough, no attempt has been hitherto made to remove the one or the other.* * Within a clump of larch trees, planted about half a mile south-west from tlic house of Belleville^ and contiguous to the public road, a beautiful marble obelisk 88 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Concerning the cave at Raitts near Belleyille, slightly noticed in the former Statistical Account, several ciuious facts have been handed down by tradition, which here deserve to be recorded. This cave, of which the excavation when entire amounted to 145 solid yards, was artificially built round with dry stones, and covered on the top with large gray flags, by a desperate band of depredators, nine in number, commonly called Clannmhicgillena'- oidh. It is not certain to what particular clan these depredators belonged. Instigated by implacable revenge against the Macpher- sons, on account of some deadly feud, they secretly dug the cave, which is called, after their name, Uaigh Clannmhicyillenaoidh^ as a place of concealment, from which they occasionally sallied forth in the night time to steal and to slaughter the cattle of the Mac- phersons, wherever they could be found. Over the cave was erect- ed a turf cottage or dwelling-house, such as the people of the coun- try inhabited at the time, the inmates of which enjoyed the con- fidence of ClannmhicffiUenaoidhj were the depositaries of their se- crets, and participated along with them in the spoils of the Mac- phersons. The Macphersons finding the number of their cattle daily diminishing, made a strict search after them, but for a long time without efiect. At length appearances were noticed about the hut erected over the cave, which excited a strong suspicion that the lurking place of those depredators could not be very dis- tant from that hut. This suspicion was increased by the inhospi- table churlishness of the landlord, who, contrary to the custom of the times, would permit no stranger to lodge for a single night in his house. Accordingly the Macphersons sent one of their number as a spy in the garb of a beggar, to solicit a night's lodging in the sus- pected hut ; and feigning illness from a fit of the gravel, the beggar was allowed to remain in a barn or outhouse for the night. The beggar being thus disposed of, the most active preparations com- menced within the house for a sumptuous entertainment ; and the feast being prepared, a large flag was raised in the centre of the house, on which Clannmhicgillenaoidh came out, feasted on the Macpherson's choicest beef, along with the inmates of the house, and then spent the remainder of the night in search of a fresh sup- stands, on which is sculptured a bust, exhibiting a very striking likeness of the tran- slator of Ossian. On the summit of Tor Alvic, a conspicuous hill, situated north-west from the ro- mantic cottage of Kinrara, a monument has been erected by his Grace the present Duke of Gordon, with a beautiful brass plate on the side fronting Kinrara. On this plate is an inscription commemorative of the officers of the 42d and 92d Regiments who fell at Waterloo. ALVIE. 89 ply. The beggar observed all that passed through an aperture on the side of the hut, and returned to report what he had seen. In consequence of the discovery thus made, the Macphersons collect- ed a strong party on the following night, seized and massacred the whole band of CUmnmhicgiUenaoidh, in the cave, demolished the hut erected over it, and thus put an end to these freebooters, and to all their depredations. The pretended beggar by whom Clann- mhicffillenaoidh were betrayed was called Ian Mac Eoghaiwn, or John Macewan, and the tribe of the Macphersons descended from him are distinguished by the appellation of Sliochd Ian Mhiceo^ ffhainn, that is John Macewan's descendants. It is said that all this tribe have ever since been peculiarly liable, at some period of life, to be more or less afflicted with gravel. On the meadow of Belleville, between the public road and the Spey, is to be seen Lochandu, celebrated in Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's novel of that name. This is a pond nearly of an oval shape, formed by the Spey, before any embankment had been rais- ed to protect the adjacent meadows from the inundations of that river. Lochandu was surrounded with a thick belt of natural birch trees, that hid 'it from the sight, till the late Mr Macpherson of Belleville, in the course of his improvements, laid it open to view, by rooting out the trees, and converting the ground about it to arable land. The dark grove, formed by the trees about Loch- andu, is said to have been a place of nocturnal rendezvous, where Borlum of infamous memory, and his gang of depredators, usually met to plan their predatory excursions.* Modern Buildings. — There are only two buildings in the parish entitled to particular notice. The first of these is the house of Belleville, built by the translator of Ossian, after a design by the celebrated architect, Robert Adam, Esq. It stands on a beauti- ful eminence, conspicuous from the public road, sheltered on the north by a plantation of Scotch fir and larch, now grown to a consi- derable size, and by the beautiful rock of Craigbuie, covered with natural birch, among which are some trees of unusual magnitude. The lawn in front of the house is adorned with upwards of 100 large trees of hard wood, and a fine row of elms along the Old Mi- litary Road, planted by Brigadier Mackintosh in 1715. The other is the house of Kinrara, built by the late Duchess of Gordon, in the form of a cottage, on a very sequestered and romantic spot, * Here Borlum murdered, or caused to be murdered, a senrant of his own, for re- fusing to go alone with him across the Spey to rob the house of a weaver in Killi. huntly, who was known to have a good deal of money. 90 INVERNESS-SHIRE. and embosomed in wood. It has been so enlarged from time to time, that it has now become an extensive building, and affords con- siderable accommodation. III. — Population. The population of the parish of Alvie, as far back as it can be traced, is as follows, viz. According to the return to Dr Webster in 1755, - 1021 By the last Statistical Account in 1792, - 1011 By the Government census in 1811, - 961 Do. do. 1821, - 963 Do. do. 1831, - 1092 The cause of increase in the population at the last census was the return of pensioners, who were serving in the army, during the late war, and the continuance of young men in the country, on account of the difficulty of procuring employment elsewhere since the ter- mination of the war. The annual average of births for the last seven years is 30 Do. do. of deaths, for do. 15 Do. do. of marriages for do. 8 The average number of persons under ]5 years of age is 387 Betwixt 15 and 30 - - - - 269 Betwixt 30 and 50, .... 2.51 Upwards of 70, - - - - • 48 The number of unmarried men upwards of 50 years is 18 of unmarried women upwards of 45, 42 of fatuous persons, - - 2 of persons deaf and dumb, > 1 The average number of children in each family, - 3 The number of families in the parish, - - - - 238 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - • 91 in trade, manufactiu-es, or handicraft, 36 Character^ S^c. of the People. — The inhabitants of the parish in . general are below the middle size; but they are uncommonly hardy, and capable of enduring much fatigue and privation. The lan- guage spoken by the common peoplef, particularly by the old, is the Gaelic; but the young of both sexes speak and understand the Eng- lish language, and are daily becoming more and more indifferent about their native tongue. The only amusements prevalent in this parish are camack matches, raffles, and dancing. The old people are rather slovenly in their dress ; but the young have a laudable taste for cleanliness, and an ambition for finery sometimes beyond their means. Potatoes and milk may be said to constitute the prin- cipal food of the peasantry : for all the meal which the small tenants can raise on their farms, in their mode of cultivating them, would not support their families during one- third of the year. The great- est part of the little butter and cheese they make, they must sell to pay the rent ; and in regard to animal food, such as beef, mutton, ALVIE. 91 and poultry, that is a luxury in which the small tenants never in- dulge, except at marriage feasts, baptisms, Christmas, and new year. They are on the whole, however, contented with their situation : and considering their limited means of information, they are sur- prisingly intelligent and well informed, naturally inquisitive and shrewd in their remarks, and always ready to communicate what they know in exchange for the information they receive. They are sober and industrious in their habits, just and honest in their dealings, and, with a few exceptions, correct and regular in their moral conduct. Their attainments in religious knowledge are not high; but the measure of knowledge to which they have attained is ^ solid and rational, tending more to influence their conduct than tq^ puff" them up with self-conceit. They are not readily carried about by every wind of doctrine, nor captivated by the noisy declamation of vagrant preachers. There have been three illegitimate births in the parish during , the last three years. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres in the parish, distinguish- ing arable, meadow, pasture, ground covered with wood, moor, and hill, together with the rental of the different properties may be stated as follows, viz. Proprietors, - Arable. ▲. &. F. Pasture. A R. r. Wood, bill, &c. A. &. F. Total. A. &. F Rental. L. 8. D. Duke of Gordon, Invereshie, - - Belleville, - - Mackintosh, - 520 1 7 347 3 17 620 3 554 1 4 312 2 27 220 3 30 313 3 20 314 1 28 12945 3 8675 3 28 4760 11784 3 25 13797 3 27 9244 3 3 5964 2 20 12653 2 21 500 329 13 8 790 803 17 6 41660 3 35 2423 11 2 RcTit of Land. — The average rent of arable land is from 15s. to L, 1 per acre Scotch. The average rate of grazing a cow is K 1, 10s., and for a full-grown sheep 2s. per annum. The rate for farm la- bour is, in winter. Is., and in summer Is. 6d. per day, including maintenance. The rate of carpenter work is 2s. and of mason work, 2s. 6d. per day, when the day admits of working from six o'clock in the morning till six o'clock in the evening. Live-stock. — The breed of sheep commonly reared in the pa- rish is the black-faced. In general no great attention has been paid hitherto, to the improvement of sheep or black cattle, and still less attention has been paid by the common or small tenants to the cultivation of the soil. Htubandry. — The absurd and unproductive system of farming 92 INVERNESS-SHIRE. pursued by their rude ancestors from time immemorial is still con- tinued by the tenants who have but small holdings, to the preju- dice of their own interest, as well as to the deterioration of the small pendicles of land which they occupy. The little manure they collect, they lay on the patches of ground nearest to their dwelling-houses, which they keep in perpetual rotation of potatoes, barley, and oats, without ever resting them, till the ground is very greatly reduced. The distant parts of the farm, which they call but-fields, never receive a single load of manure, but are allowed to lie waste for three years, and cropped again for three years alternately, — the last crop scarcely returning the seed. They seldom or never think of removing a stone out of their way, or of draining away the redundant moisture that chills the ground, and renders it unfit for bearing. The tenants occupying small pendi- cles have neither skill nor capital for carrying on an improved sys- tem of farming ; but if they had both, it cannot be denied that very little encouragement has been hitherto given by the proprie- tors of land, to improving tenants. On a lease of from seven to ele- ven years, the longest given till of late in the parish, without any security to an improving tenant for payment of his outlays, in case of being removed from his farm at the expiration of a short lease, no expensive improvement will ever be attempted. Another in- surmountable obstacle in the way of agricultural improvement is the absurd division of the land among the small tenants. It is not uncommon to see a piece of land, not half an acre in extent, di- vided into five or six lots, called run-rigs; which makes it impossi- ble for any one of the six to improve his small lot, unless the other five concur with him. With the exception of two or three farms, there are no farm enclosures of any description in the parish; and the farm-buildings of the common tenants are most wretched ho- vels, consisting of a few wooden couples, joined together with cross spars, and covered with a turf roof, that requires to be renewed al- most every second year. Recent improvements, — Considerable improvements in agricul- ture have been made of late by a few individuals, whose example, it is to be hoped, others will be induced to follow. Mr Mac- pherson of Belleville made very extensive improvements on that part of his property which he himself farmed. By embankments, draining, paring, grubbing, &c he reclaimed upwards of 300 Scotch acres of meadow ground, naturally fertile, but rendered comparatively unproductive by the overflowing of the river Spey, 3 ALVIE. 9J which he converted to fine arable land, capable of yielding verj rich crops. He also converted a considerable extent of ground covered with wood to arable land, which is at present under a re- gular rotation of crops, along with the rest of the farm. Mr John Russel, tacksman of Kincraig, the property of the Laird of Mackin-* tosh, is a very industrious and improving tenant. On a low mea- dow attached to his farm, he has, by draining, paring, and digging up large blocks of moss-fir, converted about twenty acres of in- different pasture to rich arable land. At Dalnavert, also the pro- perty of the Laird of Mackintosh, Mr James Clark, the present tacksman, nearly doubled the arable land of that farm, by drain- ing, grubbing, and embanking, since he came into the possession of it. At Dalraddy, the property of Mr Macpherson Grant of Ballindalloch, an improved system of farming has been recently commenced, which, when carried into effect, will greatly increase the value of that part of Ballindalloch's property. The Duke of Gordon's lands having been lately divided into improveable lots, it is to be hoped that the tenants will adopt a more improved system of farming. Produce. — Produce of grain of all kinds in the parish, - - L. 3586 5 Potatoes and turnipS) &c - - - - - J16440 Clover and meadow-hay, ..... 586 3 4 Land in pasture, at 30s. per full-grown ox> and 2b. for a full grown sheep, ....... 1936 8 Total yearly value of raw produce, L. 7273 4 V. — Parochial Economy. Market'TotmiSy Sfc. — There is no market-town in the parish : the nearest market-town, to which the people can bring the over- plus of their farm produce, is Inverness, situated not less than thirty- five miles from the northern extremity of the parish. A village has been commenced near the southern, or rather south-west ex- tremity of the parish, called Lynchat, on the property of Belle- ville : — it is yet only in its infancy. Means of Communication, — The parish has a communication by post with the south, three times a-week, by Kingussie, Blair-in- Athol, and Perth ; and also with the north by Grantown, Forres, and Inverness. There is no post-office in the parish ; but there is a receiving-house or sub-office, at Lynviulg, within less than half a mile from the church, which affords great accommodation. Pvblic Roads and Carriages. — The great public road from Edin- burgh to Inverness passes through the whole length of this parish ; but although toll-gates have been lately placed upon this road, it 94 INVERNESS-SHIRE. is in some places so narrow as scarcely to admit of two carriages passing abreast The only public carriage that travels on this road is the Caledonian, or, as it is commonly called, the Highland coach. It runs three times a-week for nine months of the year, and for the other three, only twice a-week. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is ex- tremely inconvenient to the greater part of the population. It is situated in a corner of the parish, at the distance of eight miles from the one, and only two miles from the other extremity. It was built in the year 1798, and was substantially repaired two years ago. There are seats for 500, all free, — which affords sufficient ac- commodation for as many of the parishioners as can attend 'public worship in the parish church; but had the church been centrical- ly situated, the accommodation would be deficient. The manse was built in 1810, and was repaired last year. The glebe is very small. At the admission of the present incumbent in 1806, there were scarcely three acres of arable ground ; but by trenching, grub- bing and liming, the arable land may now be estimated at about ten acres. The stipend is one of those augmented by the Govern- ment, and consequently amounts only to L. 150 per annum, exclu- sive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There is a Govern- ment church at Inch, within four miles of the church of Alvie ; and the district assigned to it includes a portion of this parish called Da- voch of Invermarkie, containing a population of nearly 200. There are no sectaries in the parish, with the exception of two Roman Ca- tholics and one Baptist Owing to the inconvenient situation of the church, alreadv adverted to, it is not so well attended as it would have been otherwise, more particularly in the winter season. The number of communicants, exclusive of those residing in the district connected with the Government church at Inch, is 100. The number of male heads of families in communion with the Church, exclusive of the district connected with the parish of Inch quoad sacruj is 38. Education, — There are only two permanent schools in the parish ; the parochial school, and a school supported by the Committee of the General Assembly. There is a private school taught at Raitts, a remote district of the parish, only in the winter season, and sup- ported by the parents of the children attending; a situation in which a permanent school is much required. The branches of education taught in the parochial school are, Latin, English read- ing, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and geography. The same branches are taught in the two inferior ALVIE. 95 schools, with the exception of Latin, book-keeping and geography, and with the addition of Gaelic^ The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 30, exclusive of two guineas in lieu of a garden. The school fees may be estimated at L. 20 per annum ; and the accommodation is liberal. The salary of the teacher of the As- sembly's school is L. 20, and the school fees may amount to about L. 10 per annum. It was estimated in 1833, that there were in the parish, upwards of six years of age unable to read, 342 per- sons ; and betwixt six and fifteen years of age, 26. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor on the parish roll is from 20 to 24. The annual amount of contribu- tion for their relief is from L. 12 to L. 15 per annum, arising from collections in the church and penalties exacted from delinquents ; and this small sum is distributed among them only once a year. The poor in general depend, for the most part, on their own in- dustry, and the assistance of their nearest relations. They are very reluctant, till compelled by dire necessity, to make application for parochial aid. To receive assistance from the parish fund is con- sidered degrading, and consequently is the last resource of the helpless and indigent Fuel. — Peats and wood are the fuel commonly used in the parish. Both these kinds of fuel are at so great a distance, and procured at so enormous an expense, that coals carried from Inverness to a distance of forty miles, are considered, by those who understand the management of them, cheaper fuel than either of these kinds. VI. — Miscellaneous Observations. Since the time of the former Statistical Account, various changes have taken place in the state of the country, the mode of cultivation, the value of land and farm produce ; and in the manners, character, and circumstances of the people. In re- gard to the state of the country and the mode of cultivation, it may be observed, that a spirit of improvement has been lately ex- cited among the tenants in general, which, if suitably encouraged by their landlords, will, in the course of some time, greatly ame- liorate their condition. Farming operations are at present con- ducted with more taste and better skill than they formerly were. Turnip and grass husbandry has of late years been carried on by tenants even of small holdings. Here and there pieces of waste ground, which, in the state of nature, were of little or no value, have been brought into culture by trenching and liming, &c. and rendered productive of both grass and corn. In consequence of these improvements, the parish, even in its present state, pro- 96 INVERNESS-SniRE. duces meal more than sufficient for the consumption of all the in- habitants, which renders it independent of the supplies formerly procured at a high price from Strathspey, from the low parts of Moray, and sometimes even from Banffshire. But all the advantages resulting from these improvements are more than counterbalanced by a variety of adverse circumstances, with which the farmer has to contend. Since the commencement of the late expensive war, besides taxes and public burdens, the rent of the land and the wages of farm-servants have been more than tripled over the whole parish. During the continuance of the war, the price of cattle and sheep, on which all High- land tenants chiefly depend, was so high, that the tenants were enabled to bear those heavy burdens ; but in the present state of things, it is entirely out of their power to pay the rents then im- posed upon them. Since the peace, the price of cattle has been so much reduced, that sometimes three can scarcely be sold at the price formerly received for one; while the rent, the expense of farm labour, and public burdens, continue still the same without any sensible diminution. The unavoidable consequence of keep- ing up the rent in those circumstances, is the accumulation of arrears to a most enormous amount ; which, if rigorously exacted, would totally ruin the tenants presently in possession, and eventu- ally affect the interests of the land proprietors. The means most likely to remedy those evils would be, to give longer leases to improving tenants, to make an adequate allowance for liming the land, to reduce the rent so as to meet the pressure of the times, to make the reduction annually dependent upon im- proving the fifth or sixth part of the arable land, according to the plan of improvement agreed upon, and to continue the reduction, till the land is brought under a complete rotation. A farm thus improved would enable the tenant to live more comfortably, and, at the same time, to pay a much higher rent than he can possibly do with all his industry in the present scourged state of the land. It wodd also very much encourage industry and improvement, if the tenants were allowed to build comfortable dwelling-cottages, and farm-houses proportionate in extent to the value of their respec- tive farms, with security of indemnification for their outlays, at the expiration of their lease ; instead of the miserable huts in which they and their cattle are on the present system so wretchedly ac- commodated. April 1835. UNITED PARISHES OF MOY AND UALARROSSTE. PRESBYTERY OF INVERNESS, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. JAMES M'LAUCHLAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. There is perhaps not a parish in Scotland which has undergone less change than this, since the time of the former Account. The face of the country, the state of agriculture, and the manners of the people, are still the same; the latter perhaps a little modified by the influence of education. Names. — As may seen by the title, this parish is divided into two, one called Moy, and the other Dalarrossie ; they were united at a time of which we have no record either written or traditionaL The name of the former is derived from the word Maghj a plain, corresponding with the nature of the ground which lies within the distance of two miles round the church ; while the name of the latter is generally supposed to be from the Gaelic Dalferghaisj signifying Fergus's Dale, — this being, as tradition says, one of the hunting grounds of Fergus the First of Scotland. This is, however, usurping too high a dignity for the place, which at least, in its pre- sent state, offers few attractions for a kingly residence. Extent J Boundaries. — The united parishes extend, in length, to about 30 miles in a south-westerly direction, and in breadth to about 5 miles. Topographical Appearances. — The greater part of the parish is composed of cold bleak hills ; while the inhabited portion is merely a narrow stripe lying along each side of the river Findhom. It is, in fact, merely a mountain glen, — through which this river flows, hav- ing rapid streams joining it, which pour down their torrents through every hollow in the mountains. The glen is at an average about three quarters of a mile in breadth, and at every turn of the river is studded with farm housei, to which a few arable acres are at- tached. Towards the lower end of the glen, the river is joined by another smaller stream called the Funtack, which issues out of INVERNESS. G 98 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Loch Moy ; on the banks of which, the church of Moy is situated. The larger glen or strath, together with the smaller one of the Funtack, form the whole parish. It is commonly called Strath- dearn, from uisge Eire^ the Gaelic name of the river Findhorn. The whole of the strath was formerly under wood, the remains of which are still extant in the shape of bog-fir. The mountain ranges are not remarkable either for their height or their formation ; the high- est is perhaps not more than 2500 feet above the level of the sea. There is but one range of any importance, — called the Monadh^lia hills, which extend from Strathdearn, in both directions, towards Badenoch and Stratherrick. It is one of the widest ranges in Scotland, and is stocked with deer and abundance of game. This range is intersected with numerous valleys or glens ; through the largest of which flows the Findhorn, before it enters the inhabited part of the district This stream rises out of a very extraordinary stone, called the Clach Sgoilte^ or cloven stone, from the stream issuing through a rent in the stone. This stone is at the very head of the valley, which, below this, is joined by various other minor glens, each contributing its share to swell the waters of the Findhorn. These glens are called shealings ; and the High- landers were in the habit of driving their cattle to feed in them during the warm season, — where they found abundance of the rich- est natural grass. After entering the inhabited country, there are few valleys in the mountains, — with the exception, perhaps, of a few pretty deep hollows formed by burns, and which are generally cul- tivated for about half a mile. In the mountains, there are no caverns or natural excavations, if we except one spot called Ciste Chraig an Eoin (the chest of Craig an Eoin,) which is a circular hollow surrounded with high rocks, and accessible only through one narrow entrance. This hollow is situated about a mile from the church of Moy ; and from being quite close to the pass called Starsach na Gael, " the gate of the Highlands," it was used as a place of concealment for their wives and children by the Highlanders during their predatory excursions into the low country. Here it was that Donald Fraser Smith, at Moy, defeated Lord Loudon, who commanded the King's troops at Inverness during the Rebellion of 1745 and 1746. * Quite • Loudon had obtained information, that Prince Charles Stuart was at Moy Hall ; upon which he immediately set off from InverneA witli a considerable body of troops, in order to take him prisoner. Lady Mackintosh being apprised of this movenient, ordered Fraser to collect as many men as he could, and to endeavour to stop him. Fraser obeyed her orders, and on coming to Craig an Eoin stationed his men in such MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 99 close to this place, is also a green spot called Uaigh an duine^ bheOf " the living man's grave," with which the following tradition is connected : A dispute having arisen concerning their marches, between the Laird of Mackintosh and Dunmaglass, the latter offered to find a man who would declare upon oath that the spot indicated by him was the exact march, with the condition, that if found to swear falsely, he was to be buried alive. The man was brought forward to the spot, swore by the head under his bonnet and the earth under his feet, that he stood on Dunma- glass's land. On being examined, however, it was found, that he had filled his shoes partly with soil from the acknowledged property of Dunmaglass, and that he had a cock's head in his bonnet, probably that he might save his own, and that he might not be considered perjured for swearing by the head of a cock. He was, however, found guilty, and paid the penalty of his temerity by be- ing buried alive. Meteorology, — From the elevation of this district above the level of the sea, (about 800 feet at an average,) and the number of high hills which surround it, the temperature is very cold. In summer, the average height of the thermometer is about 68° Fahrenheit in the shade ; but often it is much higher. In winter, it is remarkable as being perhaps the coldest district in Scotland. There are of- ten great falls of snow, when at Inverness, which is only twelve miles distant, the plough may be seen at work. Indeed, for some years before the winter of 1834, the frost has been so severe, that Loch Moy has been frozen over for two months; and in March 1833 the ice was so firm, that a gentleman drove a tandem round the island which is in the middle of it. Funerals also often cross the Find- horn on the ice. The Aurora Borealis is very common, and some- times vies in brilliancy with the description given by Captain Parry of its appearance on the coast of North America. In autumn 1833, it was visible every clear night for two months; and some- times, the prismatic colours are as distinct as if formed by a prism. This strath is very subject to high winds, which come down sometimes in fearful eddies through the glen, unroofing houses, and tearing up trees. The prevailing winds are the westerly and the south-easterly, the former blowing during part of the summer, the whole of autumn, and part of the winter months ; the latter, generally during the remaining months, especially those of March, a manner, that Loudon thought there wris a groat body of men opposed to him; on which he immediately fell back upon Inverness. 100 INVERNESS-SHIRE. April, and May. The inhabitants here, as in every other part of the Highlands, are particularly accustomed to foretel the weather from natural phenomena. — This parish is perhaps one of the most healthy in Scotland, if we may judge from the number of people who arrive at a very advanced age. There are many now in the parish who are eighty, eighty-five, and ninety years old, and still retain their faculties entire ; and some years ago a woman died at the age of a hundred. Scrofulous affections are becoming com- mon ; and consumptions, fevers, and nervous disorders, are by no means unknown. Hydrography > — This parish is wholly inland, and is, at the near^ est point, ten miles distant from the sea. There is but one lake of any importance, — called Loch Moy ; it is about a mile and a half long, and about half a mile broad. Its depth in some places has been found to be eighteen fathoms ; this is, however, far from be- ing the average. The lake is situated close to the House of Moy Hall, which stands on the north side, and to the manse and church of Moy, situated on the south. It is surrounded by wood, and the hanging birch copse has in summer a beautiful appearance. There are two islands in the lake, in one of which stands the ruins of the old residence of the family of Mackintosh. A street has also been traced in it, so that it is probable that part of his clan lived in the island with their chief. There stands also on the is- land a handsome monument, built in 1824, by Lady Mackintosh, in memory of her husband, Sir ^neas Mackintosh, Bart. It is an elegant building, in the shape of a tapering square pillar, and cost about L. 1000. The other island is merely a heap of stones, pro- bably artificial, and was used by the lairds of Mackintosh as a pri- son. In the memory of men now living, there was a gallows standing upon it, which the lairds used for execution. Some years ago, there was a cannon ball of about ten pounds weight, found buried in the large island; and on the south side of the lake there was a sort of causeway discovered, in the middle of which there was a large paved circle, with an immense stone perforated like a mill-stone in the centre. This was supposed to be a way made for carrying cannon, and perhaps the ball may go so far to prove this; but the true nature of it is difficult to ascertain. Towards the north-west end of the lake, there are a number of chalybeate springs ; one of them seems to be impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen, but the exact pro- portions have not been ascertained. These have been tried as to their medical properties and with considerable success. The cha- MOy AND DALARROSSIE. 101 lybeate springs (one in particular) throw up an immense quantity of slimy red matter, which very soon chokes up the fountain, if not cleared away. From the quantity thrown up, the mineral body which impregnates the water must exist in great abundance. There is but one river of importance which flows through the pa« rish ; that, as mentioned already, is the Findhom. It rises in the Monadh'lia hills, and, after a very rapid course of sixty miles, falls into the Moray Frith at Findhoni, near Forres. Its Gaelic name is Eirij or, as pronounced, Eur. It is renmrkable for the rapidity with which it rises and falls. It has been known to rise within such a short space of time, that persons crossing it, where it was quite low, have been overtaken in a moment, and carried away by the irresistible torrent. Its course is so rapid that it never me- anders, and often carries away great portions of the soil, in forming a straight course for itself. The stream is, however, easily forded in summer. It is crossed by two bridges within the parish ; and when practicable, the people cross it in other parts upon stilts. One of the bridges is entirely built of wood ; and a temporary sub- stitute for the stone one was carried off by the great flood in 1829. The other is a fine new building with stone pillars and a wooden frame-work, built by Messrs Gibb of Aberdeen, at the cost of L. 2600 Sterling. It is unnecessary here to give an account of the losses occa- sioned by the flood in 1829, as there is such an accurate one af- forded by Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, and likewise because the loss in this district, though great, was not so great as in many others, if we except that of bridges, all of which, we believe, with the ex- ception of two, were carried off by the force of the streams. These are now replaced, and, except in one place, where the river changed its course entirely, and destroyed one of the richest flats of land in the parish, the country is in the same state as it was in, before that awful visitation. Geology. — There is little interesting in the geological formation of this parish. The primitive rocks are granite and gneiss, which are rarely if ever covered with secondary strata. The action of great bodies of water is everywhere evident from the nature of the surfaces of the hills. In the upper part, where the fall is greatest, the hills rise almost perpendicularly from the river ; lower down, the nature of the soil admitted of a greater excavation, — whence the strath widens, and at the lower extremity there seems to have been the bed of a lake, which was drained by the water cutting through 102 1NV£RN£SS-SH1RE. the barrier of hills which restrained it Whether this was a dilu- vian or a post-diluvian action, it is impossible to say; but the quan- tity and the power of the water must have been prodigious. Tliis circumstance is noticed with great clearness in Sir. Thomas Dick Lauder's Account. His estimate of the height of the lake of Moy above the river, however, is erroneous ; instead of being eighteen, it is about thirty feet ; and the ascent from that till the river could fall into the Nairn, is at least thirty more, — so that the lake must have extended all the way up to this extreme height, which is at least eight miles, or the river must have excavated its channel to the present level below that height ; — the latter is the more likely supposition, and if it could be ascertained what time the river takes to excavate a certain depth, the time at which the change of course took place might be discovered. Zoology. — The animals in this district are the same as those com- mon to the other parishes around. They are red-deer, roe, hares, foxes, polecats, wild cats, weasels, &c. There have been two of a species not common in the Highlands shot lately in the parish. It is, we believe, called the martin cat, brown over the back, and white along the belly and neck, and about two feet and a half in length from the point of the nose to the tip of the tail, and nine inches in height. It generally lodges in old birds' nests. Except these two, no others of the kind have been here seen. There are no other animals any way remarkable now existing ; but there are numerous indications of the wolf, chiefly in the traps formed for taking them.* The fish in the waters of this parish are chiefly salmon, river trout, char, and eel. The former come up the Findhorn, — though of late years the strictness maintained in the cruives at Forres has rendered them very scarce. This has led people to kill them with torches in close-time, — by which means they destroy more fish than they could kill in twenty years by the rod. The Findhorn is an excellent trouting stream ; there is not perhaps a better in the north. The fish, though not particularly large, are excellent, and they take a fly with great readiness. Loch Moy is more noted for its char than for its trout. The former are caught in great abundance • Tlie method of taking this animal practised in the Highlands was as follows : a large deep hole was dug in some place frequented by the wolf; half way across the mouth of the pit a broad plank was projected, about half of which lay upon the ground, and had upon the end farthest from the pit a weight sufficient to balance a wolf, until pretty fir advanced above the pit ; on the other end was placed a bait, and the remainder of the pit was covered over with brush- wood, so as to de- ceive the animal. The wolf advanced to the bait along the plank which, when he overbalanceti the weight on the other end, immediately fell in, and he was precipi- tated into the piu Numerous remains of these pits are still in existence. 4 MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 103 with a net, as they do not take the fly ; and if properly prepared they would, we doubt not, equal the potted char of the Cumberland lakes. The trout go up the burns to spawn in the beginning of November, — when immense numbers of them are killed with spears, — a practice which ought to be stopped by the legislature, as it is most destructive to the fish, not only here but all over the High- lands. The char spawn by the sides of the lake in October ; and this is the time in which they are considered most delicate. The parish is well stocked with grouse, ptarmigan, &c. ; and their usual accompaniments, English sportsmen, are not wanting. In fact, the one seems now to be as closely connected with the other, as cause and effect, and the only thing which will ever put a stop to it, is the annihilation of the grouse — an event which does not seem far distant. Botany, — The plants in the parish are those common in every Highland district ; and, as far as is yet known, there is but one very rare plant to be found. This is the Orobus niger^ which was dis- covered in the year 1820 by Dr Alexander M'Lauchlan; and a specimen was sent by him to Dr Hooker, Glasgow. The locali- ty of the plant is in Craig an Eoin, the rock already referred to, as being about a mile to the west of the church of Moy. Many sci- entific gentlemen have searched for it since, but I believe have always failed of obtaining it, probably from not being acquainted with the exact situation in which it is to be found. The plants used as medicine are chiefly the leaf of the whortleberry, tussila- go, &c. and the people generally bind up wounds with a blade of common cabbage, or a leaf of tobacco. In dyeing, they use the bark of the common alder, which, with copperas, produces a fine black. They also dye green and yellow with heather. They likewise dye various other colours, but black, blue, green, and red are those universally used for their clothing. The common alder is prevalent about lakes, and on the borders of rivers, and in marshy places ; but the country also affords fir, ash, aspen, larch, (lately introduced,) birch, mountain-ash, and some other hard- wood trees when planted in favourable situations. Fir, birch, and mountain-ash are, however, the most general. Of the former there are several plantations belonging to Mackintosh of Mackin- tosh, which are very thriving ; but the largest are on the property of Mr Macbean of Tomatin. He has about 80 acres in full growth, and has lately planted trees to the number of one million and a 104 INVERNESS-SHIRE. half. There are also some very thriving plantations on the pro- perties of Corrybrough (H. Macqueen Esq.) and of Dalmigavie (Campbell Mackintosh, Esq.) Larch is now coming into general use, and in every plantation it forms the one-half at least There are some fine old plane and ash trees in the island of Loch Moy, which must have stood there several centuries ; and there are still to be traced there the remains of a garden, in some cherry and gean trees, which surround part of the old castle. IL — Civil History. Any account which can be obtained of the ancient history of the parbh must be derived from tradition, as there are few if any writ- ten records. There is, however, one manuscript kept in Moy Hall, written by Lady Ann Duff, giving an account of the Rebellion in 1715, with a very interesting account of many other events, which took place prior to that period. This lady was the wife of Lach- lan Mackintosh, Esq. of Mackintosh, and acted a conspicuous part during the Rebellion. The Presbytery records carry the history back as far as 1680 ; but part of the session records were destroyed several years ago, from the school-house taking fire. We learn from the former, that Episcopal jurisdiction continued till about the year 1727, when the first Presbyterian minister (Mr Leslie) was settled. It is related in proof of the barbarous state of the country, that the first time Mr Leshe went to preach in Dalarros- sie, he found a great multitude of people putting the stone, and amusing themselves otherwise about the church. He found it impossible to gain a hearing, until he agreed to try his strength in putting the stone, on condition that they would agree to join him af- terwards in the church, if he should be found to surpass them. Mr Leslie being a powerful man distanced them all, — which so attract- ed the respect of the people, that he soon brought them round to regularity and order. The traditional history is principally taken up with the feuds of the Mackintoshs and the Cummings; and many tumuli are pointed out as the graves of the slain. Some of these have been opened and bones found ; and stone arrow-heads and dirks have also been discovered on the battle fields, several of which are now deposited in the Inverness museum. There is one extra- ordinary coup du main, related of a Mackintosh during these wars, which has been referred to in a very correct work, lately published, by the Messrs Anderson, Solicitors, of Inverness. The circumstances of the case were as follows .-—During a long war between these two MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 105 hostile dans, the Cummings had at length driven the Mackintoshs for refuge into the island of Loch Moy. Here they formed the re- solution of damming the loch, where the Funtack issues from it, and thus, by raising the water, to cover the island and drown them. They proceeded with their plan till the Mackintoshs were on the eve of destruction, when one of the latter offered, if allowed, to liberate themselves and destroy the Cummings. He accordingly got a raft made, and supplying himself with corks or wooden plugs and twine, he descended in the dead of night to the dam. This was lined, towards the water, with boards, through which the adventurer bor- ed a number of holes with an auger, and in each hole he put a plug with a string attached. All these were attached to one general rope, which, when all was ready, he pulled. When the plugs were extracted, the water rushed out with fearful force, carried away the turf bank, and the whole army of the Cummings, who were encamp- ed behind it. It is said that the daring adventurer perished with his enemies, the force of the water being so great, when the dam gave way, that it swept raft and man along with it That this event took place at Loch Moy is evident from uniform tradition, from the nature of the place where the dam was erected, it being a narrow gorge easily admitting of such a construction, and also from the fact, that in cleaning the mouth of the lake, some years ago, a number of stakes and beams were discovered fixed about six feet under the surface of the ground, which were evident- ly fitted for cross boards, and which, from their appearance, must have lain there from time immemorial. Both lakes may claim the honour of this transaction ; but Lochindorb does not seem so well fitted for it, and £dward HI. was not a man to be taken in such a manner. Eminent Men. — The only eminent literary individual of whom the parish can boast, is Sir James Mackintosh, Knight, a name wel^fitted to cast a lustre round any spot in the world. He was descended of the ancient family of Killachy ; and although born in the parish of Dores, whither his mother had gone to visit a rela- tion, he spent the greater part of his youth on his paternal pro- perty. Although obliged to part with his paternal inheritance, and remove from the land of his youth, by his numerous literary and political avocations, he never forgot it, but during his whole life- time took an interest in every thing which regarded it. Land-oioners. — -The number of heritors is eleven, most of them with very small holdings. These are Mackintosh of Mackintosh ; 106 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Mackintosh of Holm ; Mackintosh of Killachy ; Macbean of To- matin; Mackintosh of Aberarder; Earl of Moray; Mackintosh of Dalmigavie; Mackintosh of Balnespuk; Macqueen of Corry- brough ; the Earl of Cawdor ; and Mackintosh of Raigmore. Of these not one resides in the parish, except Mr Macbean of To- matin, who spends part of the summer months in it. This is a great disadvantage to the district, as non-resident proprietors are the bane of any country. Till of late the niunber of gentlemen farmers made up the loss ; but of these, there is not one now to whom the country people can refer, so that the clergyman is oblig- ed to take on himself the duty of a Justice of Peace. Parochial Registers. — As mentioned already, the old parochial registers were destroyed by fire. There is now, however, one of births kept. The other business which comes before a session is generally of such a nature, that the recording of it could be of no use. Mansion Houses. — Only two or three of the proprietors have residences in the parish ; the principal of these is Moy Hall, situ- ated at the north end of Loch Moy. It is a modern house, con- sisting of a middle square with two wings, and is in every respect a commodious residence. It is now inhabited by the Dowager Lady Mackintosh, the proprietor himself living at Daviot. The other residences are plain, though generally comfortable buildings. III. — Population. The earliest census of the parish is that of Dr Webster in 1755, at which time the population amounted to 1693. At the time of the last Statistical Account, the number was 18ia In 1821, however, it had decreased to 1334; and in 1831, when the last Government census was taken, there were only 1098, viz. 427 males, and 471 females. This decrease must be wholly attri- buted to emigration. The proprietors in many places have turn- ed away the whole body of their tenantry, and let their landswout in large sheep farms. This system is a most injurious one to the country ; for in the event of a war, Britain is deprived of a set of the best soldiers in existence. Besides, there is no doubt that land well subdivided returns a better rent than large farms ; and it is reasonable to suppose that three or four tenants could raise more on the same piece of land than one could do. There are no towns or villages in the parish, and hence the peo- pie are thinly scattered over the whole district. The average of births for the last seven years is about 20, of marriages 7, and of MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 107 deaths, about 15. The number of persons under fifteen years of age is supposed to be, at an average, about 350; between fifteen and thirty, about 270 ; betwixt thirty and fifty, about 228; betwixt fifty and seventy, 200 ; and above seventy, 50. The number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of fifty years of age, is about 68, and of unmarried women about 180, including wi* dows. The number of families is 262, in each of which there is, at an average, three children. The number of inhabited houses is 212; and the number of uninhabited or now building is 22. llie number of fiitnilics chiefly employed in agriculture is . . 108 trade» manufactures, or handicrafl, 48 There are two insane persons in the parish, one blind and one deaf and dumb. Character^ Sfc, of the People, — The people are generally of a hardy constitution, and remarkably well-formed, — so that as hand- some a company of soldiers could be got in this district as in any part of Scotland. This is owing to their constitutions not being broken by hard labour when young, — as they then generally oc- cupy their time in herding cattle, or in driving them to the southern markets. The language spoken is the Gaelic, which is generally spoken very correctly, but, from the increasing admixture of Eng- lish, we doubt not that, in a few years, it will be lost altogether. The old customs of the Highlanders are also in a great measure neglected ; few or none wear the kilt and belted plaid ; and the ancient superstitions, with the ceremonies connected with them, are vanishing away. The game chiefly played is the club and ball, which forms the winter amusement, and the collecting of the people for a trial of skill at this game is the only remnant of the old mode of celebrating the Christmas and new year holydays. The belief in ghosts and fairies still exists, but in a very modified degree. At funerals the whole people of the parish are generally collected, if the deceased be a person of respectability ; and those who are invit- ed, alternately by two and two, watch the body in the churchyard, — a very unnecessary trouble. They do not drink much of ardent spirits at funerals, since they are limited by the Justices of Peace to three glasses of whisky, — two in the house before starting and one in the churchyard. On marriage occasions, a bagpipe always precedes the parties on their way to the church, and in the even- ing there is a dinner given gratis, and drinking afterwards, for which each pays a certain sum. There are always music and dancing. Up- on the whole, however, the character of the people is very moral 108 INVERNESS-SHIRE. They seldom drink to excess, and drunken brawls are rare. They are regular in their attendance on divine worship ; and it may safely be said that there is scarcely a family in the whole parish in which family devotion is not maintained morning and evening. With all this, there is not much vital Christianity; a sort of rigid, cold morality is the characteristic of their religion. The people generally live comfortably, considering their station. They have bread, potatoes, milk, butter and cheese, and many of them ani- mal food ; and for the most part they are cheerful and contented, and particularly kind to the poor. If any thing can be particu- larized as unfavourable in their character, it is, that they are pos- sessed of their full share of that sly, low cunning which is so com- mon among Highlanders. The houses are generally built like those of their ancestors; but there are a good many stone and lime houses building now. They retain the dirty habit of having the dunghill before the door, — a habit which it seems impossible to cure. Poaching is little known; and the game laws are very strict, and readily put in force against offenders. The fishing of the streams is not prevented by the proprietors, and, indeed, is scarce- ly worth the prohibiting, — as they are non-resident, and the num- ber of fish killed can have little effect upon the fishing. Killing the fish by torch light, at spawning time, is, however, much practised, and is most injurious to the fishing, as they are then in shallow water, and utterly helpless. Smuggling prevails to a considerable extent, especially in winter ; but it has not been found to be accompanied by those heinous effects which have accompanied it in many places. They merely resort to it as a more profitable method of getting quit of their barley, than selling it in raw grain ; and, in fact, it is not looked upon as a breach of the law. The people have strong prejudices against medical advice ; and often require the sanction of their minister before they take such medicines as are prescribed. There is an Infirmary at Inverness for affording medical relief to the poor ; but this, although often of great benefit, is only used in extreme cases, and even then with great reluctance. The people themselves have little medical knowledge, and whether for a fever or a cold, or consumption, or a pleurisy, whisky is the universal an- tidote. Within the last year or two, they are improving in this respect ; but their prejudices, although shaken, are far from being removed. IV. — Industry. This parish is wholly agricultural, so that the whole males are MOT AND DALARROSSIE. 109 employed in farm labour, except the few artisans employed by the inhabitants. There is nothing in the way of manufacturing, if we except the home-made cloths manufactured by the families. The quantity of this, however, is diminishing, as they find it more pro- fitable to sell their wool, and to purchase cloth. There are weav- ers, 6 ; tailors, 5 ; blacksmiths, 3 ; and carpenters, 7 ; and 1 cooper. These are kept in employment by the country people. There are also a few dry-stone masons for building houses, dikes, &c. Every man is his own shoemaker, or rather brogue-maker ; a shoemaker has, however, lately settled in the country. Some of the people ge- nerally keep a few articles, such as snufi*, tobacco, &c. for retail; but there is no regular shop in the parish. Few of the tenants keep men-servants, since their children generally remain with them un- til they marry, or settle otherwise ; but on large farms there are, between agriculturists and shepherds, above the age of twenty, about 25 male servants, and under that age, 53; female servants, 37. Agriculture. — There is little of the parish, in proportion to its size, under cultivation ; at the utmost, it is but 2820 acres, and a great part of this is merely outshot, or occasionally under tillage. Besides this, the number of acres in waste, including the hill pasture, is 93,180 imperial acres. There is little of this which could be pro- fitably made arable, since sheep pay so well ; and probably not more than 1300 acres are improvable with advantage. A considerable part of the hill pasture is in common, especially where there are two or three tenants in one farm ; and the extent of this commonty may be fairly estimated at 23,000 acres. Wood is generally scarce of late years ; but planting is becoming more general. Mr Macbean of Tomatin has planted about a million and a-half of larch and fir trees, on his property ; and there are con- siderable old'plantationson the estate of Mackintosh near Moy Hall. The total extent under wood is On the estate of Mackintosh, Tomatin, Raismore, Lord Moray, DalmigaTie, Kylachy, - Corrybrough More, Laggan, Corrybrough, 472 1154 . Fir and larch are the timber generally planted; but birch, moun- tain-ash, and aspen, are indigenous to the whole parish. The Planted, Natural. 155 acres. - - - 500 acres. 280 8 8 . - - 20 - . - - - 150 15 - - - . 3 8 . 10 ►re,0 - - - . 400 . 50 6 . - - - 13 no INVERNESS-SHIRE. thinning, &c. does not proceed upon a regular system, so that the management is not particularly good. The thinnings of fir wood generally sell at about 6d. per dozen. Rent of Land. — Arable land does not let high. In fact, there is little grain raised beyond what is necessary for the inhabitants them- selves, and often not even that, as the only profitable stock is black- cattle and sheep. Land in cultivation lets at about L. 1 per acre. The rent of grazing may be taken at about L. 1, 15s. per cow, and Is. 9d. per sheep, allowing two and a-half acres to a cow, and perhaps six acres of hill pasture to a sheep. Rate of Wages. — Country labour is about the same rate as in the neighbouring districts. It averages, summer and winter. Is. 3d. per day to a man without victuals ; and for a farm-servant about L. 4, 10s. in the half year : masons, carpenters, &c get 2s. per day, and other artisans at the same rate. Live Stock. — The breed of sheep and cattle has been much im- proved of late. The black-faced sheep has superseded the small white Highland breed, and the Highland biack cattle are daily im- proving in size and quality. The Highland Society gave some prizes a few years ago, which roused the spirit of emulation, and raised a desire for better cattle. Husbandrj/, — The general system of husbandry is, however, not good. Lime is unknown, except among the more wealthy ; and black oats are the most common grain. After a series of crops, the land is left for a year in ley ; which they manure again, and so on, giving the greater portion of the manure to the ley land, in- stead of laying it on green crop, which only consists of a few po- tatoes. Were lime introduced, the improvement would be astonish- ing ; for where this has been the case, the soil has been so rich as to give in one place fifteen returns of wheat, and in another seven- teen returns of barley. The soil is in most parts alluvial, and where this is not the case it is fine black mould. The nature of the leases is much against improvement. The tenants are almost all tenants at will, or from year to year; and, besides, their lands are so subdivided, being ridge about, as it is called, that improvement is almost out of the question. This state of things is changing now, and nineteen years leases are becoming common ; good farm steadings are in the course of being built, and many comfortable houses erected, espe- cially on the estate of Mackintosh, and also on that of Tomatin. The people themselves are not very spirited ; they are- unwilling to give up old customs, so that the landlords have the trouble of forcing MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 1 1 1 their good things on the tenants. By degrees, however, they are improving, and in a few years we may expect to see as comfortable and substantial a set of tenantry here as we can see any where. Produce. — The amount and value of the raw produce raised in the parish, as far as can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds whether cultivated for feod of man or of domestic animals, . . . . . L. 5640 Potatoes and turnips . . ..... 700 Hay, whether meadow or cultivated, .... 225 Of land pasture for cows, rating it at L.l, I5s. per cow, . . 822 Of land in pasture for sheep, rating it at Is. 9d. per sheep per year, 1333 6 8 Besides this the value of wool is at an average of the last seven years, 13s. per double stone, ...... 700 Annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, . . . 30 Miscellaneous produce* . . . . . . . 25 Total value of raw produce, L. 9475 6 8 V. — Parochial Economy. Markets^ S^c, — The nearest market-town is Inverness, which is dis- tant about twelve miles from Moy. Here the people sell all their com- modities, such as butter, cheese, &c. There are three principal mar- kets held there in the year, the Marymas in August, Martinmas in November, and Candlemas in February. Inverness is also the near- est post-town ; but it is in contemplation to bring the mail by the Highland road, and then letters can be had quite at hand. This road passes through the parish for ten miles, and has lately under- gone a great improvement, both as to the line, which was formerly very steep, and as to the length, it being now shortened by about three miles. The Highland coach to Perth from Inverness passes along it, once every day, and is generally well filled with passengers. Besides this, there are various district roads intersecting the pa- rish, which are made by the converted Statute Labour. The bridges on the district roads are all wooden, and are often swept away by the streams. The stone bridge over the Findhorn was swept away in 1829, and has been replaced by a handsome edifice, the arches of which are of wood supported on stone pillars. This bridge was built at an expense of L. 2600. Ecclesiastical State. — There are two churches in this parish, one at Moy and the other at Dalarrossie, in which divine service is per- formed alternately. The one at Moy is very ill situated, being quite in a corner of the parish, and far from the great body of the po- pulation. That at Dalarrossie is perfectly centrical, and, except when the river is high, easily accessible by the whole parish. Both the churches are old. The church at Moy was built in the year 1765, and was substantially repaired in 1829. It is, however, 112 INVERNESS-SHIRE. cold in winter, there being no less than five doors to it Tlie church of Dalarrossie was built in 1790, and is in every respect as good as the church of Moy, except in not being ceiled ; that is, however, easily remedied. Both churches are situated in a church- yard. That at Dalarrossie is remarkable as not having a stone the size of an egg to the depth of seven feet, although surrounded by stony soil. The tradition is, that it was sifted by the Druids. The churches contain about 450 sitters each. These seats are all free except that the tenant, on taking possession, pays a few shil- lings, — which on vacating is repaid by the incoming tenant The manse is situated at the church of Moy, nine miles from Dalarrossie, and was built in 1765. A wing was added in 1810 ; but it is far frdiBi being comfortable. There are glebes in both pa- rishes, to both of which are attached commonties on the neigh- bouring farms, and, including this, they may each be worth about L. 6 per annum. The stipend amounts to 15 chalders victual, half barley, half meal, besides L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. From 1797, when it was first augmented, until 1812, it was only L. 105 Sterling. In 1812, it was raised to 12 chalders victual ; and in 1832 it was augmented to the present amount of 15 chalders, with barley substituted for bear, which constituted half of the old stipend. Besides the parish churches, there is no other place of worship in the parish ; indeed, there are only one or two Dissenters (Episcopalians) in the parish, and these are regular in their attend- ance on the Established Church. Divine service is very well at- tended in both churches ; but the population being more dense around that of Dalarrossie, the congregation is generally larger. The sacrament is dispensed once each year, and is generally at- tended by all the neighbouring parishes, so that on Sabbath the number is seldom less than 5000. As in most parts of the High- lands, there is a meeting for discussing religious topics on the Fri- day before the communion, in which pious men from all parts of the country take a part The number of communicants is very small ; at an average it is not above 30 ; but including communicants from neighbouring parishes, about 250 generally communicate here. There are various reasons for there being so few in the parish ; but it is chiefly owing to the peculiar doctrines instilled into the minds of the people, chiefly by demagogues, in r^j^ard to the sa- crament of the supper. There are few collections made for religious and charitable pur- poses* The people are poor. There are few gentlemen of wesdUi ; MOY AND DALARROSSIE. 113 and, with the exception of the little they get from the poors' fund, the poor are entirely supported by the benevolence of the parishion- ers. There is, however, generally about L, 12 Sterling per annum, collected chiefly for the General Assembly's India Mission, the Inverness Education Society, and the Northern Infirmary. This may appear small; but when the situation of the people is consider- ed, the sum will appear very considerable. These collections are al- most all made either in the church, or by sending some persons round as collectors. This is generally done by the district schoolmasters, who know the situation and circumstances of most of the people. Educatioru — There is perhaps not a parish in Scotland where education is carried on to a greater extent than here. There is a school in almost every nook, and there is at present one individual out of every 3| under education. This is what can be said of no other parish in Scotland, although we have lately seen the number at school in a good many of them stated at 1 in 4^ or 1 in 5. The schools are as follows : Parochial school, 1 ; aid schools by Societies, 6 ; school for girls by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge, 1. The branches taught are, reading (English and Gaelic,) English grammar, writing and arithmetic, with Latin and book-keep- ing in some instances. The pupils are carefully instructed in the Shorter Catechism in both languages, and religious instruction forms a great part of the course of education. They are also habituated to writing original letters, bills, receipts, &c and this has been found to be of great advantage. The parish schoolmaster has a salary of L. 30, with a good house and garden ; and, inrf uding fees, the yearly income will amount to about L. 40 Sterling. The fees are the same in all the schools, and amount to Is. 6d. per quarter for reading and writing, and 2s. 6d. for the higher branches, as arith- metic, book-keeping, &c. The other schools are upon the aid scheme, and supported partly by the people, and partly by the In- verness Education Society. Some of the best informed country lads are employed during the winter half-year, by the people who have the choice of the schoolmaster; and each gets Is. per quarter for each scholar from the Society. This system has answered uncom- monly well; and, were it introduced more generally in the Highlands, would be productiveof the most beneficial consequences, and the ex- pense of supporting it is a mere trifle. The six schools in the parish were sustained last year at an expense of only L. 12 to the Society, and of little beyond the living of the schoolmaster to the people. Indeed, the masters have little above L. 5 each in the half-year for INVERNESS. H 114 INVERNESS-SHIRE. their services, yet they are satisfied. There is a great emulation be- tween the different teachers, and the great question is, who will have the best school on the day when they are all brought together for examination. This is a day looked forward to as one of the most important in the whole year, by both young and old, and it has always proved a source of great satisfaction to those who at* tend at the examination. The state of education is improving yearly ; and there is one fault peculiar to the Highlands, which has been got quit of, and that is, the long drawl with which the words are pronounced in reading. This is now removed, and the style of reading is generally excellent There is a school for girls sup- ported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, in which the pupils are taught sewing and all sorts of needle-work, and are kept in mind of their reading and writing. The school is gene- rally attended by from 15 to 20 scholars. The salary is L. 5 a-year to the mistress, besides some trifling fees. From the number of schools, there is not one person in the parish between the ages of six and fif- teen, who cannot read or write ; and above that age, the number can- not be above 125 ; the number at the last enumeration being 145. These are, however, all old people, and are dying fast away, so that soon there will not be an uneducated person in the parish. Education is prized very highly. Every one who can, goes to school, and this desire has been so well met by the Inverness Society, that there is not a single additional school wanted,-— except that it would be highly advantageous were one of the schools permanent, t. e. kept up for the whole year, since the aid schools only continue six months, and sometimes not quite so much. The General Assem- bly's Committee has been petitioned to this effect ; and it is hoped that the petition may be attended with success, as the object is highly praiseworthy, and the people and heritors are willing to af- ford every accommodation. This prevalence of education has had a great effect on the intelligence of the people. Every two or three villages join in getting a newspaper, and this has as yet had no bad effect ; and it is to be hoped will have none. As to their morals, they have always been remarkable for sobriety, steadiness, and ho- nesty ; and education has perhaps in general tended to confirm these good qualities. Education takes a long time to produce a com- plete change upon the manners and views of a country ; it lies for a long time on the surface, and it has not yet taken deep enough root here, to produce any visible effect upon the morals of the inhabitants. It, however, promises fair ; and we hope in a few MOY AND DALAROSSIE. 115 years to see education take its full effect, and attended by those beneficial results which it is calculated to produce. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor is great for the population ; and the sum to meet their support is in general very low. The average number of poor is 40 ; these are divided into classes, which receive according to their necessities. They receive at an average, the first class, 12s. per annum ; second do. 10s. do. ; third do. 7s. do. The annual collections amount to about L. 13, 14s. lid. exclusive of donations. These generally amount to about L. 8 per annum ; besides which, the sum of L. 54 has been bequeathed for the use of the poor, viz. L. 10 by the lateLodo- vick Macbean, Esq. of Tomatin, and L. 44 by the late ^neas Mac- bean, Esq. Junior of do. This is all the support the poor have ; and in bad years goes but a very little way. They are, however, gene- rally very unwilling to seek relief from the session, and they only ask it when necessitated to do so for the means of subsistence^ Fairs, — There are seven fairs held in the parish, viz. six cattle trysts, being one during each of the summer and autumn months, and one lamb market, on the third Friday of August These are held at the Inn of Freeburn, which is situated about the middle of the parish, and are generally well attended by dealers, — the time for holding them being regulated so as to suit the dealers, when on their return from the great northern markets. Inns. — There are three inns in the parish ; two of the houses are good, and the third merely a dram-house. They are all on the line of the Highland road, and are in summer well supported, — the num- ber of travellers being then great. These are of no advantage certain- ly to the morals of the people, but they are not productive of much evil ; the country people do not frequent them much, and drunken quarrels are rare, except perhaps at markets. FueL — The common fuel used is peats. These are found in abun- dance all over the parish, and the quality is as good as is to be found any where. They are cut in the end of May, and in the month of July are fit for carrying home and stacking. The expense of cutting is trifling, — about L.2, 10s. for a quantity which would supply a large family during the year; but there is the additional trouble of leading, which for that quantity would require ten days with three horses, bringing them from the distance of two miles. Miscellaneous Observations. In husbandry, there is no doubt the parish is susceptible of immense improvement. The soil is excellent, and all it wants is 1 10 INVERNESS-SHIRE* proper management. Lime is, however, expensive. Besides the carriage from Inverness or Strathspey, there is the expense of tolls ; and until this useful article is quarried within the parish, little can be expected. That it does exist within the parish is 'beyond a doubt; but the property on which it has been found is under trust, and improvement requires the fostering hand of a resident landlord. A spirit of improvement is, however, rising up among the tenantry, and in a few years we hope to see a new system introduced. In fact, this is the only thing that can put a stop to emigration. Our young men, for want of employ- ment, are leaving us to seek their fortunes in America, and the old, whom prejudice has fixed in favour of old measures, are left to proceed in the routine pointed out by their ancestors, centuries ago. The young men can see the benefit of improvement, and can act upon it. They go to work in other parts of the country, and see the improvements carrying on there, and can apply them on their return ; but these are all leaving us for the new world, where, from the great and spirited improvements carrying on, they hope to better their fortunes. Emigration is so far useful as an outlet for our super- abundant population ; but the ease with which it is accomplished raises a spirit of discontent, and a desire of change in our people, which makes them feel restless and uneasy in their present con- dition. The only true method of preventing it is by introducing a spirit of improvement among our tenantry ; and when this is met by the liberality of the landlord, we shall hope to see the popula- tion of our Highland glens comfortable and happy, and not wish- ing to change their native land for what they may suppose to be the comforts of a foreign soil. January 1836. PARISH OF KILMALIE.* PRESBYTERY OF ABERTARPH, SYNOD OF GLENELG. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parishes of Kilmalie and Kilmonivaig were an- ciently united, and called the parish of Lochaber ; but they Were disjoined upwards of two hundred years ago. The name Kilmalie is evidently derived from a burying-ground consecrated to the Vir- gin Mary, — Kile signifying a burying-ground, and Malie being a diminutive for Mary. Extent — The length from north-west to south-east is about 60 miles; the greatest breadth 30 miles. It is bounded on the east and south-east by the parish of Kilmonivaig ; on the south- east by Rannoch, in Perthshire ; on the south and south-west by the parish of Appin ; on the west by the parishes of Morven and Ardnamurchan ; on the north by Glenelg. It lies partly in Inver- ness-shire, and partly in Argyllshire. Mountains. — The mountains are very numerous, but none of them deserves particular notice except Benevis^ which is the highest mountain in Britain. It is situated near Fort William. Its height is 4370 feet above the level of the sea, which lies within three-quarters of a mile from the base of this stupendous mass. The etymo- logy of this mountain has afforded a large field of conjecture ; but the writer is satisfied that the following is the true one ; Beinn in Gaelic signifies mountain ; niamh^ the heavens or clouds ; and Ba- thaisy that part of the human head which is between the forehead and the crown of the head. The compound word written in Gaelic would be Beinn-niarnh'-bhathais. It is naturally enough contracted to BenSvisj — the mountain with its summit in the clouds, or, as in Pope's Homer, " cloud kissing hilU* The view from the top of Benevis is very extensive ; but it is a Herculean labour to reach its top, and the attempt should not be made but by able bodied and healthy persons, with a proper guide. There are, in this parish, about sixty-seven miles of sea coast, * Drawn up by the late incumbenti the Rev. Donald M'Gillivray. 1 18 INVERNESS-SHIRE. along which there are several spots of sandy arable land ; but not of any great extent Wherever the mountains are high, the val- leys are narrow and the acclivity very steep. Where the mountains are not very high, the acclivity is more gentle, and the arable land extends farther from the shore ; one-third at least of the very high hills are quite barren, and appear white at a distance. This is par- ticularly the case with respect to Benevis and the range of moun- tains to the east and west of it. Benevis differs from them all, not only by its height, but also by its round massy top. The deep clefts on the north-east side of Benevis are never without snow. For two seasons when ice failed, the snow gathered and condensed into ice in these clefts, was of great service to the salmon-curers. The country peasants with their small hardy horses carried it down in panniers on horseback. Meteorology. — The atmosphere in general is moist, but not cold. The high mountains attract the clouds, which pour down torrents of rain in our valleys at all seasons ; hence the difficulty of rais* ing a corn crop in this climate. It requires the utmost skill and activity to secure crops in this country, particularly in late harvests. The wind blows in general from south €nd south-west. When it comes round to the west and north, it is an indication of the approach of fair weather ; with the south wind we have rain in general. In some seasons, there is a continuation of cold easterly wind for six or seven weeks, the effects of which are severely felt. The climate^ upon the whole, is healthy. Rheumatism is a prevailing disease* There are persons at present in this parish bordering on a hundred years old. Hydrography. — There are three arms of the sea in this parish. The first and farthest south is Lochleven, which branches out from Linne Loch ten miles below Fort William, and penetrates between the lofty mountains of Glenco and Lochaber for ten or twelve miles towards Rannoch. It has two currents, one at Balachulish Ferry, the other about three miles farther up at Caolus-na'Con. Linne Loch terminates at Fort William ; and then Locheil commences, being a continuation of Linne Loch, bending to the north-west at Fort William, and extending ten miles towards Arisaig and Skye. It has a current at Annat. Linne Loch has a strong current at Corran Ardgour Ferry. There is an excellent bay at Corran Ardgour, and another at Camus-na-gaul, near the south entrance of the Caledonian Canal, directly opposite to Fort William. Lakes and Rivers. — Locharkaig, which is sixteen miles long, and RILMALIE. 119 one broad, is the only fresh water lake of any consequence in this parish. Loch Lochy is chiefly in the parish of Kilmonivaig ; but about nine miles of its coast are in the parish of Kilmalie. It is on the line of the Caledonian Canal. The distance between it and Locharkaig is about a mile and a-half. The top of Achnacarry House, the seat of Locheil, is seen from Loch Lochy. There is a most beautiful valley between the two lakes, called in Gaelic cl mili dorchj or dark mile, being about a Scotch mile in length. It re- sembles the Trosachs between Loch Catherine and Loch Auchray in Perthshire, but far surpasses the Trosachs in extent and in the beauty of the scenery. The dark mile commences at the farm- house of Clunes, and ends at Locharkaig. There is an excellent road through this truly picturesque valley. The river Lochy comes out of Loch Lochy, by a new channel cut out for it about 600 yards to the south of the line of the Caledonian Canal. It falls into the river Spean at Mucomre Bridge, and for a quarter of a mile it is called the Spean, but resumes its own name the Lochy, when it and the Spean fall into the old channel at Gearlochy. It runs eight miles, separating the parishes of Kilmalie and Kilmonivaig, and then falls into the sea at Fort William, where the water of Nevis also meets it. There is a ferry on this river about two miles from Fort William, having a good quay on either side, which is of very great use ; but since the roads are so good on both sides, and the intercourse increasing, the want of a substantial stone bridge is severely felt by travellers and cattle-dealers. It is to be hoped that the day is not dists^nt when this want will be supplied. Steam-boat travellers would find great benefit from a bridge at Lochy Ferry, on account of the intercourse between Banvie Locks and Fort William. • Geology, — ^The predominating rocks in this parish are gneiss and mica slate ; and subordinate to these are beds of qitartz rock, hornblende rock, &c. These various primitive rocks are traversed by rocks of granite, syenite, and porphyry. Rocks considered as belonging to the transition class also occur. The great Benevis is worthy the particular attention of the geologist, and, even in fine weather, will afford him many days of delightful and instructive employment The lower part of the mountain is composed of mica slate and gneiss, higher up we meet with syenite, at a greater elevation granite ; the upper parts are composed of different va- rieties of porphyry. Many years ago Professor Jameson read an account of the geology of the mountain to the Wemerian Society ; 120 INVERNESS-SHIRE. afterwards, an eloquent writer, the present Dr Macknight of Edin- burgh, wrote a description of its scenery and geology, which was published in the Memoirs of the Wernerian Natural History So- ciety. Some years afterwards, Dr MaccuUoch, who set at nought every thing done by his predecessors, attempted, but unsuccess* fully, to make geologists believe that the mountain was unknown geologically till he set foot on it. Several foreign geologists also have published remarks on this, the highest mountain in Great Britain. Zoology, — Much attention is paid to the management of sheep farms in this parish, as well as in the neighbouring Highland pa- rishes. Wedders from extensive farms here, are considered in the south country markets, second only to wedders reared on the farm of Audi in Glenorchy, on the Marquis of Breadalbane's property. Goats are scarcely known now in this parish. They are very de- structive to oak wood. Salmon, herrings, red-cod, lythe, skate, flounders, whitings are found in the salt water lakes. Formerly, salmon were found in Locharkaig ; but a cascade at Mucomre Bridge has cut up the com- munication between the sea and Locharkaig, so that no salmon is now to be found where they abounded of old. This is one disad- vantage which has followed the making of the Caledonian Canal. Woods and Plantations. — There was a very extensive and ex- cellent wood on Mr Cameron of Lochiel's property ; but much of it was cut down about twenty years ago. There is still remaining, on the south side of Locharkaig, a considerable quantity of excel- lent fir, and of great size. On Lochiel and Ardgour's properties there is a good deal of oak wood, and kept in the best order, par- ticularly by Colonel McLean of Ardgour, who is enthusiastically fond of wood. He has several spots planted with fir, well enclos- ed, which no doubt will be profitable hereafter. In the meantime, it is a great ornament to the country. IL — Civil History. This parish was a nursery for the army, particularly in the late war.* There is a good deal of tradition relative to events which • There is an obelisk erected in this parish. It han the following inscription, which is given at length, as it indicates the character and achievements of an eminent individual connected with this parish : — " Sacred to the memory of Colonel John Cameroni eldest son of Sir Ewcn Cameron of Fassfern, Haronct, whose mortal remains transported from the field of glory, where he died, rest here witli those of bis fore- fathers. During twenty years of active military service, with a spirit which knew no fear, and shunned no danger, he accompanied or led, in marches, sieges, and battles, the gallant 92d Regiment of Scottish Highlanders, always to honour, almost always to vie- 4 KILMALIE. 121 took place in this parish during the rebellion of 1745. Lochiel hav- ing joined Prince Charles, Clan Cameron followed their chief, a mea- sure of which they had sufficient cause to repent The royal army, after the Prince was finally defeated at CuUoden, pitched their camp at Fort Augustus, and sent plundering parties to Lochaber, who drove away all the cattle in the country, burnt the houses, and drove the miserable inhabitants, old and young, without food or clothing, to the hills. They killed several persons in cold blood. About 400 of the royal army, passing up Locharkaig side, found a young man of the name of Cameron, having a gun in his possession. Without civil or military trial, the unfortunate youth was posted up and shot, by an order from Grant of Knoc-ceanach, who com- manded a party of the Ross-shire militia. Dugal Roy Cameron, the incensed father of the slain youth, watched the party as they were returning with their plunder. Grant of Knoc-ceanach, whe- ther designedly or not, gave his horse to Major Munro of Culcairn ; and Dugal, mistaking his man, shot the amiable major. Dugal es- caped, after throwing away the discharged musket. He got again before the party, and took his stand in a narrow pass, with the view of doing more execution ; but the party were so long detained, that they escaped without meeting their incensed enemy again ; — but he taught them not to come back on a similar expedition. There was no more burning or plundering in Lochaber, though a party of the royal army were quartered for years at the head of Locharkaig. Dugal Roy Cameron was never discovered. He served afterwards as a private in the royal army. Many of his connections are still in this country.* Land^oumers. — The land-owners in this parish are, Mr Came- ron of Lochiel; Colonel M*Lean of Ardgour; Sir Duncan Came- ron of Fassfern, Bart. ; Mr Patrick Cameron of Glenevis ; and Mr John Cameron of Berbice. Parochial Registers, — The parish register commences in 1772, tory ; and at length in the 42d year of his age, upon the memorable 16th day of June A. D. 1815| was slain in the command of that corps, while actively contributing to achieve the decisive victory of Waterloo, which gave peace to Europe. Thus closing his military career with the long and eventful struggle in which his services had been so often distinguished, hudtcd^ lamented by that unrivalled General to whose long train of success he had so often contributed ; by his country, from which he had repeatedly received marks of the highest consideration ; and by his Sovereign, who graced his sur- viving family with those marks of honour which could not follow to this place, him whose merit they were designed to commemorate. Reader, call not his fate untime- ly, who, thus honoured and lamented, closed a life of fame by a death of glory.** * Samuel Cameron, who, by his Lochaber axe, killed tlic pious and brave Colonel Gardiner at Prestonpans, was a native of this parish. His grandson is one of the elders of this parish at present. He used to say, that he and his comrade acted in self-defence, for that the Colonel galloped up to them and attacked them. 122 INVERNESS-SHIRE. but has been very irregularly kept, — ^partly owing to the scattered state of the parish, and partly owing to the number of Episcopar- lians and Roman Catholics in the parish, who do not record the names of their children in the parish register. Modem Buildings. — The only modern building of consequence in this parish is Lochiel's mansion-house at Achnacarry, the an- cient family seat The house is a large, handsome, and substan- tial building, but it is not yet finished. Colonel McLean of Ard- gour's house was burnt some years ago, and has been since rebuilt and enlarged. It is situate near Corran Ferry, and surrounded with planting and shrubbery laid out with great taste. III. — Population. In 1755, the population was . 8093 1792, . . 4225 1801, . 4600 1811, . . 5000 1821, . . 5527 1831, . . 4210 The people employed on the Caledonian Canal are included in the census of 1811 and 1821 ; but if the census of 1831 had been correctly taken, the population would certainly have been found to be more than 4210, notwithstanding of the number that left the country when the Canal was finished. In 1831, there was in the Inverness part of the parish, . 2745 souls, in Argyleshire, .... 1465 fiunilies in Inyerness-shire, . . . 457 in Argyleshire, . . . 230 males in Inverness-shire, 1340, females in ditto, 1405. males in Argyleshire, 725, females in ditto, 740. About 1200 reside in the village of Fort William, which is situat- ed in Inverness-shire. The yearly average of births cannot be as- certained on account of the number of Episcopalians and Roman Catholics in the parish. There is no register of burials kept The yearly average of marriages for seven years may be about 30. The number of children in each family at an average is 3^. There are 610 inhabited houses. LangtLogej Sfc. — The prevailing language is the Gaelic, but the English is gaining ground. The people are very desirous to ac- quire the English language. When one person wishes evil to an- other, it is not uncommon to hear a Highlander say, ^^ Don beurla orta^^ I. e. may you never speak properly in English. The inter- course with the south country by steam-boats, and the number of schools in particular, have tended to spread the English language among the inhabitants ; but they prefer to receive religious in- RILMALIE. 123 struction in Gaelic ; indeed, many of them who can speak in com- mon conversation in English cannot follow an English discourse. The rising generation imitate their equals in the south country in their dress. Tartan among men, and cotton cloth among women, are the common costume. The common diet of the peasants is potatoes, with herrings or milk. Such as are in better circumstances may have a little meal and mutton ; but potatoes is their principal food for three-fourths of the year. Smuggling and poaching are still carried on secretly, but not to any great extent. When the proprietors are absent from the coun- try for any length of time, idle persons use liberty with the game on their property. IV. — Industry. There is not much arable land in this parish, so that the people are employed chiefly as fishers or shepherds ; neither is there any cotton or woollen manufactory. There is one bank agent at Fort William ; and about twenty merchants between Fort William and Corpach. There are three medical gentlemen at Fort William, four lawyers, and a Sheriff-substitute. There is a sufficient number of carpenters, masons, shoemakers, and tailors, between Fort Wil- liam and Corpach, to supply the wants of the parish and adjacent country. Agriculture. — There is not one acre out of 300 cultivated or capable of cultivation in this parish. Considerable exertions have been made by some of the proprietors to drain and improve por- tions of land near their own residence ; and wherever the attempt has been made, the returns have fully repaid the expenses. Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land is about L. I, lOs. per acre ; the average rent for grazing a cow is L. 2 per annum ; the rate per ewe is from 2s. to ds. per annum. Quarries. — There is a slate quarry on Lochiel's property at north Balachulish ; but it has not been much wrought hitherto. There is also a stone quarry at Fassfern, which was of great advan- tage at the time of making the Caledonian Canal, and lately in building a quay at Fort William. Fisheries. — Salmon and herring are the principal fisheries in this parish. The river Lochy is famed for the excellency of its salmon. There are stake-nets in several places along the coast, and extra- ordinary exertions are making to improve the salmon-fishing. Time will tell how the present speculation will pay the adventurers, but 124 INVERNESS-SHlRE. no expense is spared to insure success. The herring-fishing is the great source of support to the country people; but when it fails, they are destitute, particularly in the village of Fort- William. V. — Parochial Economy. Fort William is a market-town ; but the market-day is scarcely distinguished from another day, so little business is doing. The village of Corpach, at the south end of the Caledonian Canal, is the only other village in the parish. There are no houses of any value in Corpach, and there is no appearance at present of any improvement. Means of Communication. — There is a regular communication with Inverness and Glasgow by steam in summer twice a-week, and in winter once a-week, besides a daily post from the south and from Inverness ; also three times a week to and from Arisaig. There is a penny post-oflSce established lately at Corpach. Caledonian Canal, — The south end of this stupendous work be- gins at Corpach in this parish, and runs eight miles through it along the river Lochy to Loch Lochy. It was a work long in con- templation before it was begun. It occupied about twenty years from its commencement to its completion, and it cost nearly a million of money to the nation. No one can yet say how useful it may prove ; but already it has attracted thousands of travellers, British and foreign. The number is increasing every year ; and the steam navigation is improving and increasing in proportion, to meet the wishes of travellers and traders. All admire the magnificent scene- ry along its banks for sixty miles, but particularly at the south en- trance, from whence the traveller has a full view of Benevis. The only disappointment to which the traveller can be exposed is, that the monarch mountain may be in a mournful mood, — half co- vered with mist. To escape this disappointment, travellers should visit the scenery in the months of June, July, and August, when they have every chance of seeing the mountain free of clouds and mist, but never free of snow. Every encouragement should be given by the Honourable Com- missioners to the navigation of the Caledonian Canal. At present, the Greenock merchants complain of the high dues, notwithstand- ing that these dues have been reduced one-half from what they were at first. The consequence is, that vessels which would other- wise pass through the canal, are sent round the north coast The steam-boats, in particular, ought to be encouraged ; and were a tty boat allowed to pass free^ in order to expedite the navigation on KILMALIE. 125 the canal) there is reason to expect that more dues would be drawn. The same number of men are employed waiting the locks as if there were vessels passing every hour of the day ; since these men are in Government pay, and since overseers, &c. are also in Govern- ment pay, every facility and encouragement should be given to steam-boats and other vessels to pass through the canal. The only harbour of consequence in this parish is at Fort Wil- liam. A quay has been recently built there, partly by the Fishery Commissioners and partly by private subscription. It is expected to be of some benefit to the place, if indeed any thing can benefit a place without any public or private employment for a poor and numerous population. There is a very safe anchorage at Camus- nagaul, between Corpach and Fort William. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is at Ck)rpach, at the south entrance of the Caledonian Canal, which is the most cen- trical spot in the whole parish. There is a population of from 500 to 600 souls within three miles of the church. It is distant about thirty-six miles from the extremity of the parish, and was built in 1783 for L. 440. It will accommodate about 900 or 1000 sit- ters. All the seats are free, which is an immense advantage to a poor population. It removes a common excuse for absence from church. The manse and its appendages of garden and office- houses were built about seventeen years ago, and cost the heritors triple of what the church cost them in 1783. The glebe is large, partly arable and partly pasture, but not valuable, on account of its unprotected and fenceless state, in the immediate neighbourhood of many poor cottagers. The stipend is not fixed, as there is only an interim decreet The living, upon the whole, is considered re- spectable. There is a missionary at Fort William; and a church that can ac-* commodate 300. The Society in Scotland for Propagating Christ- ian knowledge allow L. 50 per annum to the missionary ; and the Duke of Gordon, while proprietor of Fort William and neighbour- ing land, allowed L. 10 per annum for house rent. The place is at present vacant. « There are two Government churches in this parish, one on each side of Linne Loch near Corran Ferry : one minister preaching every alternate Sabbath in each supplies both. There is a popu- lation of upwards of 11 00 souls connected with his charge ; and the place was very destitute before the Government church was erect- ed. There was a missionary for some time officiating between 126 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Locharkaig in this parish, and Brae Roy, in the parish of Kilmo- nivaig; but he was obliged to resign on account of bad health. He had not a place of residence within the bounds of his charge. The preaching stations (four in number) assigned to him were so dis- tant from one another, and some of them so diflScult of access, as to make his labours difficult for himself, and of less value to the people. This mission is at present vacant There is a popula- tion of 220 souls in the district of Locharkaig. The nearest part of this district is eleven miles, and the remotest part thirty-six miles from the parish church. There is an Episcopalian and a Roman Catholic chapel at Fort William, each having an officiating ecclesiastic The number of Episcopalians in the whole parish is about 400, and of Roman Catholics about 200. The Established Churches at Kilmalie and at Fort William are so crowded every Sabbath day, that, from the aspect of the congregation, a stranger would conclude there could be no other sect in the parish, but that the whole body of the people belonged to the Established Church. The average number of communicants in the Established Church is about 800. There is a Bible Society at Fort William, and a Religious As- sociation at Kilmalie. The probable average amount of the con- tribution yearly for both may be about L. 20 or L. 24. Education. — There are eleven schools in the whole parish: one, a parochial school, at Fort William, — the salary the maxi- mum ; six schools supported by different societies, of which three are supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge ; four schools supported by private individuals. The branches generally taught in the parochial school and in that supported by the Committee of the General Assembly at Corpach, are English reading, writing, arithmetic, Latin, Greek, book-keeping, geogra- phy. The fees of the parochial school may amount to about L. 50 per annum ; but the teacher has to pay an assistant The Society schoolmaster's income may be from L. 16 to L. 25 per annum, in- cluding school-fees, which are not well paid in general. The Gaelic schools have conferred no small benefit on this parish. They have been instrumental in introducing the word of God into families where it was not before ; and the teachers in general being per- sons of a serious cast of mind, have been a check upon the prevail- ing sins of drunkenness, swearing, and Sabbath profanation. KILMALIE. 127 Libraries. — There are two libraries at Fort William, one lite- rary, the other religious ; but no great demand for books from ei- ther of them. There is a good selection of books in each of them, but the frequent changes and vacancies in the mission of Fort William is against the taste for reading religious books ; and the numerous spirit-shops in that village, and in other parts of the pa- rish, prove a great snare to those who ought to employ their time in reading. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor may be about 1 60, chiefly supported by collections at the church door, with occasional donations from heritors, and alms received by their going from house to house through the parish. The most needy re- ceive Is. per week; but the average given to ordinary paupers may be from 5s. to 7s. in the year. The people are very kind to such as are in distress. They send potatoes, milk, peats, &c. to their houses. Some are very anxious to get upon the poors' list ; but others abstain from applying for aid as long as possible. Prison. — There is no prison in this parish. The garrison of Fort William is used as a place of temporary confinement till the accused be liberated or sent to Inverness or to Inverary jaiL Fairs. — There bxb two annual fairs at Fort William, one about the Idth of June, the other about the ISth of November, — both well attended, and considerable business transacted at each. Inns. — There are three inns in the parish ; and dram-houses without number, — some of them licensed to sell spirits, some selling without license. May 1835. PARISH OF GLENELG. PRESBYTERY OF LOCHCARRON, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. ALEXANDER BEITH, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Glenelg is the ancient and modern name, derived from or compounded of Gleann and seilg^ or gleann and elid; in the for- mer case signifying the valley of hunting^ in the latter the valley of the roey — both equally appropriate, whether meant to be descriptive of the regular and extensive sweep of the mountains, or of the rich verdure and covert by which they are distinguished. Extent^ Boundaries. — The parish is about 20 miles in length, and the same nearly in breadth, bounded on the N. E.and E. by the parish of Glensheal, county of Ross; on the S. E. and S. by Glen- garry and Lochaber ; on the S. W. by lake ^orar, separating it from Ardnamurchan ; and on the W. and N. W. by the sound of Sleat, separating it from the Isle of Skye. The coast runs nearly from N. to S. and, excepting in the bay of Glenelg, and within the lochs or arms of the sea hereafter to be mentioned, where good anchoring ground is to be met with, is generally high and rocky. Climate^ Sfc. — In common with other parts of the north-west coast of Scotland, Glenelg is remarkable for the quantity of rain which falls at all seasons of the year. The prevailing winds are the west and south-west, which convey the clouds from the Atlantic heavily laden with treasures, which are most plentifully dispensed by them as they travel along and come in contact with the summits of our lofty mountains. Our severest gales are from those quarters, and are in winter, especially at night, accompanied by frequent peals of terrific thunder. North-east, east and south-east winds bring dry weather, particularly the two latter ; but they are of rare oc- currence. Our storms usually commence with a strong, gusty, but dry, gale from the south-east, which after a time almost instantan- eously veers to the south-west ; from which quarter it rages with fury, accompanied with torrents of incessant rain. The usual prog- nostic of those storms is the low and sullen flight of the sea birds GLENELG. 129 through the valleys into the interior of the country, as if they re- treated from the advance of a resistless enemy. Notwithstanding the excessive moisture of the climate the inhabitants of the country are singularly healthy. Hydrography. — The parish is intersected by two arms of the sea, I^ch Hourn and Lochnevis, and is thus divided into three districts, Glenelg Proper, Knodyart, and North Morar. Loch Hourn is navi- gable for twenty miles, being about five broad at the entrance, which breadth it retains for about one-half its extent, when, for the remainder, it contracts into less than half this. Lochnevis also extends about twenty miles, being in point of breadth much of the same description as the former. Both are remarkable for the romantic beauty of the scenery of their coasts, especially Loch- Hourn. The mountains rise from their margin, and are covered with wood. As in all parts of the Highlands, so here many fresh water lakes are to be met with, supplied with trout ; but nothing in the na- tural history of any of them requires particular notice. The same remark applies to the rivers which, along the coast, empty them- selves into the friths. a Soili Sfc, — The soil in Glenelg Proper is loamy^and fertile, not- withstanding the quantity of rain which falls. By this, however, the average weight of the grain is necessarily much deteriorated ; yet it is no unusual thing for the conunon bear or big to weigh fifty pounds imperial bushel, and Flemish oats forty-eight pounds. In the district of Knodyart the soil is much lighter, but good crops are raised, with the advantage of a harvest always two weeks earlier than in Glenelg. PropttP* Mineralogy. — Beds of Htnestone are met with in various parts of the parish, but it is burned neither for building nor for agricul- tural purposes. This may be accounted for by the rock being of a very hard description, and by^the want of suitable fuel. Peat would hardly suffice for the purpose, and the expense of coals, it is supposed, would be greater than the benefit derived from the use of lime could compensate. An excellent substitute is found in the shells ; it abounds on the coast, and is obtained at the expense of the conveyance. Plumbago also is to be met with in considerable quantity. The rocks of this parish, as Professor Jameson informs us, are chiefly gneiss, with subordinate mica slate, quartz rock, horn« blende rock, granite, syenite, and serpentine. The serpentine af- INVERNESS. I 130 INVERNESS-SHIRE. fords veins of asbestus and also of amianthus ; actynolite, zoisite, and tremolite occur in other rocks. Fishings. — The sea along the coast, and the various lochs branch- ing off from it, have long been famed for the number and quality of herrings frequenting them ; but, of late years, the Gshing has failed, as on all the west coast of Scotland, to the impoverishment of a large population who subsisted by it. Other fish are caught to the extent used by those employed in taking them, and the sup- ply required by the country, — the prevalent kinds being ling and cod ; but few, if any, are exported. IVood, — A considerable quantity of natural oak, ash, birch, alder, (kc. grows in the glens and on the sides of the mountains, which overhang the lochs by which the parish is intersected. One or two instances, on a small scale, of plantations made at a remote period, also show that hard woods generally, but the ash and plane particularly, are the trees most congenial to the soil and climate. About twenty years ago, considerable tracts of land were laid un- der larch, pine, and spruce, intermingled with oak and ash, by Mr Bruce, then proprietor of Glenelg Proper, all which have grown well. As these plantations have been laid out with admirable taste, they add in a great degree to the beauty of scenery, otherwise of a high order. Mr Bruce, at the same time, expended a considerable sum of money in the formation of an orchard near the opening of the larger glen of the district, which he sheltered from the prevail- ing winds by quick growing wood, and supplied with every descrip- tion of fruit tree, and of rare and valuable plant : but, being secured only by a temporary dry stone dike, and common thorn hedged and he himself ceasing soon after to reside in the country, it became a prey to depredators of various kinds, and consequently suffered loss. Still, however, the large fruit trees, especially the pear and plum, yield good crops ; and the orchard, even thus wasted, with its mag- nificent beech hedge running throughout its whole length — for one- half the way being double, so as to form a sheltered and shaded walk of considerable extent— and with its parallel lines of graceful silver firs closely planted, running across its whole breadth, con- stitutes a striking object in the scenery of this, one of the first of Highland glens. II. — Civil History. Land-owners.— The landowners of the parish are three in num- ber : The Right Honourable Baron Glenelg of Glenelg, present Secretary of State for the Colonies, proprietor of Glenelg Proper GLENELG. 131 bounded on tlie north by Ross-shire, on the south by Loch Hourn ; iEneas Ranaldson Macdonell, Esq. of Clanranald and Glengar- ry, proprietor of Knodyart, bounded on the north by Loch- Hourn, on the south by Lochnevis ; and T. A. Fraser, Esq. of Lovat, pro- prietor of North Morar, bounded on the north by Lochnevis, and on the south by Lake Morar. Eminent Men. — Lord Glenelg, late Mr Charles Grant, eminent no less for his literary taste than for his talents and success as a statesman, both being graced and sanctified by his unostentatious and unfeigned piety, has a place in the history of his country, as one of those great men who, in the capacity of rulers, have been raised up in the time of her need. The early period in his pub- lic life, at which he was called to take a share in the councils of the nation, — the anxiety of each successive government to secure the benefit of his valuable services, — shews the estimation in which he has been uniformly held by those best able to judge of his character ; and the master-hand with which he has conducted each department of the state entrusted to his care, with his consequent progressive advancement in public confidence, proves that he has not been overrated. His Lordship's Parliamentary career has been from the beginning connected with Inverness-shire, first, as the Re- presentative of that district of burghs of which Inverness is the principal, and subsequently, of the county, — on the death of his father, whom he succeeded, — until his elevation to the Peerage. The services he has rendered his country are well known. For three years, he held the Secretaryship of Ireland, which country he governed with great prudence and popularity. In the course of this period he obtained for Ireland, the benefit of measures which it required no ordinary sagacity to devise, boldness to advociite, and labour to carry into effect. As President of the Board of Trade, at a subsequent period, it fell to him to introduce that measure for the protection of the corn interests (the most intricate of sub- jects) which still forms the law of the kingdom, on a point so im- portant, — none better to supersede it having hitherto been devis- ed. As head of another department, it also fell to him to pre- pare and bring forward the new law for our East India dominions, — an act affecting so large a portion of the human race, and which, in the face of opposing interests and able adversaries, was passed, without any change in its material parts, with general approbation. And in his new and extended sphere, similar important and be- neficial results may well be anticipated, from the exercise of hi^ 132 INVERNESS-SHIRE. high and energetic talents, the influence of which will not ultimate- ly prove the less availing that, from natural taste, the notoriety of public exhibition seems to be avoided rather than courted by him. Antiquities. — Under this head the parish can boast of the most entire specimens, in the southern parts of the Highlands, of the ancient Beorgs, Burghs^ or Duties^ usually called Pictish Towers., They are two in number, and situated near each other in Glenbeg, the smaller of the two valleys to which the name Glenelg belongs in common. The foundation and ruins of a third are also seen in this, and part of the materials of what must have been two more, in the larger, valley or Glenmore. Affording too convenient a supply of useful stones for modern architecture, scarcely one-half of the original building, even of the most entire, remains ; whilst of the others little else is to be found than that portion of the ma- terials which it would have been useless to remove. They are all situated at no great distance from the sea, and, it has been alleg- ed, decidedly within the ancient Scandinavian boundary. The height of those of which a portion remains is about 30 feet ; but they probably were several feet higher. The diameter within walb is also about 30 feet, but above 50 outside, or over walls. Within, the building is perpendicular, but the external wall is curved, bul- ging out at top after the form, but not to the extent, of the Ed- dyston Light-house. This, with their circular shape, and their hav- ing no opening on the outside wall, (the building, though without mortar of any kind, being, at the same time, so closely jointed that no footing could have been had in any attempt at scaling,) shows that the " towers" certainly were places of refuge and defence. The walls are double, and exceed 10 feet in thickness. Between or within the walls are tiers of galleries, respectively about 6 feet high and 2^ wide. One of the dunes which we describe has four such tiers, of the dimensions stated, one over the other. The se- cond has only two whose dimensions approach this, the high- er galleries contracting almost to a single wall. The access to the galleries was by openings, left for the purpose, inside the dune, about 3 feet wide, and 5 high,— the communication of each tier with the other being by an aperture in the floor above, or rather by a gap in the large flags which, stretching across both walls, bind the building firmly together, and form the floor of each successive gallery. The external entrance to these places of re- fuge and defence was by a very low door, close to the ground, to pass through which it is necessary to creep on the hands and knees. 3 GLENELO. 133 As this entrance still remains, in the case of one of the dunes, it is evident, from the construction, that a single stone dropped, after the manner of a portcullis^ from the opening between the double walls, must have formed a barrier which no intruder could force. In some instances of similar erections, the external entrance is said to have been subterraneous ; and it is true that a passage of this kind from one of the Glenelg towers was shut up a few years ago, by the farmers in the neighbourhood, the loss which they sustain- ed by sheep and cattle falling into it having led to this. The passage never was explored by any of the existing generation ; but the tradition is, that it communicated both with the neighbouring river and the second tower. It is probable that the dwelling-houses of the inhabitants, in the troublous times which gave origin to the structures which we have attempted to describe, were erected close by the burghs or duncs^ aud that when the lighting of the beacons on the neighbouring i/ountains, gave intimation of the approach of an enemy, or his de- /ient on the coast, they forsook their habitations, conveyed their / noveable property, with provisions, within the walls of the fortress, / if not always kept there, and, having previously driven their cattle off / from the coast, or dispersed them over the mountains, awaited the / event or prepared for defence. The protection afforded by such strongholds, usually built upon eminences, must have been consi- derable. The galleries described above provided perfect shelter for women and children, from arrows and other missiles, which might be thrown into the fort ; for they do not seem to have been roofed over. The form of the dune precluded the prospect of capture by scaling : whilst from the summit, where, from the projecting stones which remain, it is evident there must have been some description of platform, the besieged could hurl destruction on the enemy who, either by this means or the battering-ram, sought their ruin. From the construction of the castles, and the nature of the assaults made by the predatory adventurers, for defence against whom they were intended, it must have seldom occurred that they were taken by an enemy, unless by surprise. The generally received opi- nion of their origin is, that they were not the workmanship of any purely Celtic tribe, there being many circumstances to render it probable that they were erected by the Danes or Norwegians. It is necessary only to state further, that the stones, large and small, with which those of Glenelg are built, were conveyed a distance of more than a mile, from a neighbouring mountain, of which the 134 INVERNESS-SHIRE. proof is, — the traces of the transportation afforded by those drop- ped by the way. The tradition accounting for the erection of the dunes is sufficient- ly wild. According to this, they were built by two giants, of sta- ture and strength so immense, that one placing himself at a con- venient distance, between the mountain from which the materials were quarried, and the site on which the dunes are reared, handed the stones to his companion, who without further trouble, construct- ed the fabrics in all the magnitude in which, it is said, they once appeared. As evidence and illustration of the powers of this Ti- tanic race, a huge rock, of at least fifty tons, is shown as a missile which the one brother hurled at the other, on an occasion when detected by him, in the act of carrying off from his castle the fire which he had left on the hearth on going forth to the chase. The straits of Kyle Rhea and Kyle Akin^ separating Skye at two points from the mainland, are said to bear their names, because their usual mode of passage was by leaping over them. In confirmation of the whole history, their place of sepulture, for they perished in war at last, was long shown and is still distinguished by the name of " Imear nam Fear Mora." That we may be accurate in our history, it may be proper to add, that one account bears, that Bhea perished by drowning, according to the following distich : — I^dupi gad) Fear air ceann a shieagh, Is dhuirich Mac Rhea 'sa chaol. — The " barrow" or tumulus distinguished by the foregoing name is situated in a little plain near Kyle Rhea. Superstition had long attached sacredness to the spot, and predicted wrath from above on the intruder who, with unhallowed hands, should force it to reveal its secret. Several years ago, however, a party of gentlemen con- nected with the country resolved to brave the danger; and proceed- ed, but with selection of a cloudless day, to put tradition to the test. For a time all went well ; but their task was only half completed and the wished-for discovery but half made, when the sky became sud- denly overcast, and a thunder storm of unusual character compelled them to desist, and to restore matters, so far as might be, to their previous condition. They had, however, in their search come upon two sarcophagi, formed of large flags, containing the remains of human skeletons, imbedded in the finest sand, of most extraordinary size. The bones on being exposed to the air, soon crumbled into dust; but an idea of their dimensions is well given by an eye-witness, who states, that when the under jaw-bone of one of the skeletons was OLENELG. 135 applied around the lower part of the face of a very large and fat man present, it could so be held without touching him; being at the extreme points nearly twelve inches apart. The circumstances at- tending the exhumation long secured to " Imear nam Fear Mora" an immunity denied to the adjacent locality. But the lapse of time brought it at last into the occupation of those, who were strangers to the impression produced by such a cause. An attempt was made to subdue the stubborn soil. Warnings of most portentous cast were given, but the sturdy agriculturist, nothing daunted, pursued his task, and the traces of the peaceful plough have now rendered it difficult to point out the site of the " gigantic heroes' resting- place." Mansion^ House. — The only mansion-house in the parish, is that of Inverie, on Glengarry's Knodyart property, where he now re- sides. It is beautifully situated on the banks of Lochnevis, and was built by the late Colonel Macdonell, father of the present proprie- tor, who has been described as the last of that class of Highland Chiefs, of whom he formed so perfect a specimen in all his feelings and habits. The house is remarkable, inasmuch as the two prin- cipal rooms are finished with strong wattle work from the floor to the roof-tree, for there is no cieling. The couples which support the fabric are of native fir, of great strength and size, also rising from the ground and meeting in massive arches over-head. The floor is of clay and hard sand, the whole finishing being truly Cel- tic, and in excellent keeping with the tartans which grace its hos- pitable and accomplished inmates. In Knodyart and Glenelg Proper, there are several large and comfortable houses, occupied by extensive sheep-farmers. Of those the principal are at Barrisdale, Beolary, and Elian reach. The last especially is commodious, well finished, and finely situat- ed near the sea. III. — Population. Popolation in 1801, 2834 IHll, 2611 1821, 2807 1831, 2874 The ancient population must have been very considerable, pro- bably double at least of what it is now. The decrease is to be ac- counted for solely by emigration ; for to such an extent has this prevailed, that America too rejoices in a Glenelg, with a popu- lation, at least equal to that which the parent parish still possesses. This emigration was at first of necessity and not of choice. The 136 INVERNESS-SHIRE. letting of large tracts of land to single individuals caused the ori- ginal banishment of the hardy and numerous race, who had for so many generations possessed the soil. This class of emigrants did not quit their native shores empty-handed. On the contrary, they carried with them the means of procuring a comfortable home be- yond the Atlantic The population which remained consisted of those who were too poor to follow, and of a few others, who, wil- ling to forego some advantages for the privilege of residing in their much loved native land, tried to content themselves with sadly re- duced possessions, until, finding that thus they were losing their all, and induced by the flattering tidings which reached them from the western continent, they too, though in different circumstances from their predecessors, bade farewell to a country, tb which they had clung till they could do so no longer. Of this description of in- habitants few (that is, not more than a dozen families,) are left be- hind ; and of those, as they are able to effect their object, occa- sional families take their flight to what they consider a happier shore. Besides the tacksmen of the large possessions into which the country has been divided, — four of whom possess Glenelg Pro- per, and about as many more the other districts, — besides them and the shepherds and servants whom they require, the population con- sists of those who dwell in villages near the sea ;— divided into two classes, — such as possess from one acre, to perhaps six of arable ground, and the grazing of from one to three cows, and others who have nothing but the cottage that shelters them, who depend on the kindness of neighbours for patches of ground for potatoes, and supply all their other wants by fishing, and such viork ^ they may obtain at home or abroad. It is but fair to remark, that the banishment of the original population, and the throwing of the country into a few large possessions, took place long before the time of the present race of proprietors, so that, whether matter of regret or satisfaction, to them belongs neither the blame nor praise. Whatever the views of political economists on this interesting topic, as to the nation's loss or gain, it is impossible not to contemplate it in reference to those exiles themselves, and, in doing this, not to lament, especially, over the injury sustained by them in a moral point of view. Amidst the plenty for their bodily support which they enjoy in America, they dwell there in a barren wil- derness as to provision for their souls. Deprived of the ordinances of religion, or but scantily and occasionally supplied, deprived also • of the means of instruction for their children, the many careless \ GLENELG. 137 and indifferent who go thither become confirmed in their spiritual deadness, whilst those of them who quit their native land under more serious impressions, also yield to the secularising influence of such an order of things ; and though they retain their integrity, and hold fast their profession in their day, yet, leaving no successors, the harps 'which for a time had awakened echoes, that previously enjoyed an unbroken sleep, are at last hung upon the willows, and the Songs of Zion cease to be heard by the streams of the fo- reign land ! How worthy this subject of the consideratiou of a pa- triotic and parental Legislature ! Nay, how imperative that the thousands who yearly go to swell the population of our growing co- lony, should not be left to perish for the lack of knowledge ! Number of families inrthe purish, • . . . . 511 chiefly employed in agriculture* . . . 211 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, . 61 Language, — Glenelg being a purely Highland district, the lan- guage spoken is almost exclusively Gaelic A few individuals un- derstand a little English, and are able to speak it ; but Gaelic is the language in which alt business is transacted, and will probably long continue to be so. Here, as throughout the whole High- lands, there exists the greatest ambition for the acquirement of English. Without it, it is well known there is little probability of advancing in the world ; but from the system pursued in our schools, the progress hitherto made in introducing English has been limited indeed. The disadvantages under which our High- land population labour in acquiring knowledge from this cause, are unspeakable ; and it were well worthy of those whose atten- tion is now, directed to the subject of training teachers for the duties of their important office, to take into consideration the ob- stacle which has to be overcome in reference to our Highland youth, and to devise the mode by which this may be fairly expect- ed to be done. The simple reading of English is easily taught ; but the difficulty lies in making this language the medium of com- munication with the minds of our youth. If children who under- stand English require what is called the intellectual system, i, e, the translation of complex into simple terms, Highlanders require a double translation ; this, and also the second rendering into their mother tongue ; and all, moreover, with the aim of ultimately sub- stituting the more for the less perfect language. With ordinary advantages the population of this parish might certainly be much raised in the scale of intelligence, being natu- rally remarkably acute, shrewd, and active. With this character, 138 INVERNESS-SHIRE. and enjoying the facilities which they do in the more remote dis- tricts, it is not he wondered that smuggling should prevail to some extent, in the pursuit of which their ingenuity and activity are so much called into exercise. Amidst all their disadvantages they are contented, and upon the whole comparatively comfortable, — there being nothing in their circumstances to prevent their possessing that happiness which is the fruit of, and can exist only in connection with, the influence of the blessings of the gospel. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The climate of the north-west coast of Scotland generally unfits it for the purposes of agriculture. In Glenelg such quantities of rain fall, and at all seasons, that an agriculturist might calculate on losing almost every fourth crop. This, and the small comparative amount of arable land, plainly point it out as adapted for pasture, — the farmer having in this line only the prospect of success, — sheep pasture, too, principally ; as the arable land could not afford sufficient supply of winter provender for any other de- scription of stock. Yet few districts of this coast, if any, equal Glenelg as to the quantity of arable land and the richness of soil. We cannot be wrong in estimating the number of acres in the whole parish that are occasionally in tillage, or might be, at about 1000. There are probably about 2000 acres under wood. The wealth of the country, however, consists in the luxuriance of its pasture. This remark applies to Knodyart and Morar, in common with Genelg Proper, but especially to the last. Good rents are con- sequently paid ; the average rent of grazing for a cow or ox being L. 2 Sterling for the season, and of pasture for a ewe or full-grown sheep, f3s. The black-cattle are generally of the pure Highland breed, kept free of all southern taint with extreme care. The old black-faced sheep stocks are rapidly disappearing before the white- faced or Cheviot, which are found uniformly more hardy, and, from the superior quality of their wool, vastly more profitable than the other description. Much attention is paid to the improvement of sheep stock, which soon finds its reward in the increased prices ob- tained for the various sorts disposed of, as well as for the wool. From the character of the climate, smearing with tar and butter is universally practised, so that white wool is not at all known among us. Every advantage, as might be naturally expected, is afforded the sheep-farmer as to the duration of his lease, which is seldom, if ever, under nineteen years. The requisite fences and buildings GLENELG. 139 for the management of this description of stock are in every case fully granted ; indeed, every facility is afforded both for rearing and improving. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish may be stated as follows : Grain of all kinds, .... L. 1000 Potatoes, ..... . 650 HHy, 585 Pasture of black-cattle and sheep, at L. 2 for cow or ox, and at ds. for a ewe or full-grown sheep, - - 7900 Gardens and orchards, - - - - ' 5(r Annual fellings and thinning of woods. - - - 200 Herring fishery, ... . - 250 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, - L. 106*35 V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication^ Sfc, — The nearest market-town is In- verness, which is at the same time the county town, and situated at the distance of about seventy miles. The means of communi- cation are good, inasmuch as the Parliamentary road into the Isle of Skye passes through the principal glen to the ferry of Kyle Rhea. This road, leading from Glensheal into Glenelg, over the stupend- ous pass of Mam Rataan, is excellent, — the bridges across the va- rious mountain streams being of the best construction, and always preserved in good repair. The Kirkton of Glenelg can boast of being a village of some extent, having' the principal street of slated houses, and displaying the attractions of some well-stocked shops. The bay upon which the village is built affords good anchorage with south-east, east, and north-east wind ; but the safest harbour with all winds is upon the opposite coast of Skye, and at the distance of one or two miles. The whole appearance of Kirkton is truly picturesque, including, as it does, the church, factor's residence, and street already allud- ed to, with its numerous train of straw-covered cottages, intersper- sed with various kinds of ornamental trees, surmounted by a thriv- ing planting of fir that towers majestically over it, and having lines of trees along the various roads that lead from it All this, combin- ed with the beauty of the extensive bay and back-ground, has pro- cured for Kirkton, from the lovers of fine scenery, much admira- tion. Under the head of villages may also be mentioned Arnis- dale, possessing a population of 600, and situated at the south- ern extremity of the district of Glenelg Proper, on the banks of LochHourn. The Alpine scenery of this locality owes nothing to art Its native grandeur, however, more than compensates this neglect. ' In this extensive parish there is no post-office. Lochalah^ in the county of Rqss, and, by the high road, at the distance of twenty 140 INVERNESS-SHIRE. miles from Glenelg, is the post-town. Thither we send, in the meantime, at our own expense, by the ferry of Loch Duich ; but it is expected that representations which have lately been made in the proper quarter, may lead to speedy improvement in this de- partment.* Ecclesiastical State. — It has been already noticed that the church is situated close by Kirkton, consequently in the northern extremi- ty of the parish ; in fact, it is within two miles of the boundary of the neighbouring parish of Glensheal. The population of the Glenelg district comprises nearly two-thirds of the whole parish, and is, with the exception of a few families, exclusively Protes- tant. It is divided between the northern and southern extremities, in the proportions of 1100 souls to the former, and 700 to the latter. Arnisdale, the capital of the latter, is distant from the church and school-house at least thirteen miles, consequently can derive very little benefit from either. The distribution of the po- pulation, and not any error in placing the church, thus renders it the place of religious assembly merely of one section of the pa- rish. Situated as it is, it accommodates the largest division ; built any where else, it either would accommodate a smaller proportion, or none at all. The former would be the case had it been erected at Arnisdale ; the latter had it been placed at an intermediate point, with the view of serving both extremities of the district, as, from the distance and difficulty of access on each hand, seldom could any, and never the weak and infirm, come up to the house of God. The accommodation afforded by the church has ac- cordingly never exceeded what is required for the northern section of the Glenelg district, with its population of 1100, as it never contained more than from 300 to 400 sittings. About six years ago, it underwent a thorough repair, and now affords, so far as it goes, very comfortable accommodation. The attendance on pub- lic worship is always good ; and the average number of communi- cants for the whole parish is about 200. The two districts of Knodyart and Morar, bounded and sepa- rated as already described, have a population, with few exceptions, entirely Catholic. To this portion of the parish the Committee of the General Assembly for the management of the Royal Boiintj has, for a number of years, assigned a missionary, — the order of his services being, that he preach two successive Sabbaths at two dif- ferent points in Knodyart, and the third at Arnisdale. From this • Sififiirfhe foregoing was written, SLpeftni/.pott, three times a week, has been esta- blished frcMn Lochalsh by the above route. GLENELG. 141 arrangement, in connection with the distance of the parish church, Arnisdale, with its large Protestant population, is truly inadequately supplied with the means of grace. Its circumstances, and also those of Knodyart, have been brought under the notice of the Religious Instruction Commission and of the General Assembly's Church Extension Committee; and it may be safely averred, that no station in Scotland can prefer a stronger claim, or come more clearly under the description of destitution, to the removal of which the Go- vernment and our church have, we trust, now resolved to apply their energies. In the Knodyart and Morar districts two Catholic priests of- ficiate, supported exclusively by the fees raised for their services. In the former there is a chapel, if the half dilapidated and straw- covered hut, which serves as a place of worship, may be dignified with that name; in the latter another is in course of erection. The attendance at the first, from the dimensions of the house, can never exceed 100. For Knodyart the Honourable the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, three years ago, granted an annual sum of L. 8 in support of a catechist ; but as grants in such circumstances, by this Society, are made on the condition of an equivalent being provided by those benefited, that an ade- quate provision may be secured, this bounty has not hitherto been made available. The present manse of Glenelg was built four years ago. It is situated at a distance of more than a mile from the church, and a little way beyond the entrance of the larger glen. Of consider- able extent, and handsome structure, from the commanding si- tuation in which it stands, and in full view of the sea, it forms a striking object in connection with the surrounding exquisite scenery. The glebe, if it may be called by this name, is of great extent ; being above 360 acres, 50 of which nearly are good arable, the remainder being pasture ; and all this, exclusive of a shealing, at the distance of a few miles, calculated to be large enough for the pasture of a hundred sheep. The farm of Buarblach, of which this forms the description, constitutes the glebe, under the burden of an annual rent paid to the proprietor, of L. 19, Os. 7d. Sterling; and became so under the following circumstances : Subsequently to the Rebellion of 1715, Government resolved to erect in this part of the county a fort or barracks, the remains of which are still extant, and the proprietor of Glenelg, the M*Leod of the day, being in London at the time, sold for the purpose the portion of land on which the building stands, and grounds to a considerable extent 142 INVERNESS-SHIRE. around. In these, however, were included the original glebe; in lieu oiF which, in a subsequent arrangement with the presbytery, the farm of Buarblach, burdened as above, was given by regular deed, in- serted in the records, to the incumbent of the parish in all time to come. At the period of the transaction, it was no more than a fair equivalent, but the increase in the value of land since makes the glebe an important addition to the income of the minister. The teinds of the parish are exhausted, and the heritors, having resign- ed them on the occasion of the last augmentation, the stipend is fixed at the annual sum of L. 237, 7s. 9^d. Sterling. Education, — We have at present five schools : one parochial, and four from the Edinburgh Gaelic School Society. The paro- chial school is situated at a short distance from the manse ; has a salary of L. 30 Sterling, with the legal accommodations, and a large attendance of scholars, too poor to pay almost anything. The branches taught are, English and Gaelic reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and sometimes Latin. Though the full legal accommodations are provided for the schoolmaster, not L. 5 a year are drawn in the shape of school fees. The principle ap- plied in selecting the situation for the church has also been ap- plied in the case of the school-house. Not only is it in the north- ern portion of the Glenelg district, so as to be useless to Arnis- dale, Knodyart, and Morar, but, in addition to this, there being no central point between the two glens, which form this northern portion, convenient for the children of both, it has been placed within the reach^of the chief population, viz. near the opening of the larger glen, where it can easily be attended by 200 scho- lars. Its distance from Glenbeg is thus three miles, from Arnis- dalc fourteen, from Knodyart eighteen and a broad ferry, and from Morar twenty, and two such ferries. In short, it is conve- nient only to about a fourth of the whole population. The immense deficiency in the means of education has hitherto been met solely by the Gaelic School Society, — a society which it is impossible to mention without rendering it the tribute of our gratitude for the unspeakable benefit it has conferred on so large a portion of the Highlands. Glenelg owes it much. But the schools established by this society being circulating, and their object limited to teach- ing to read the scriptures in Gaelic, however valuable, considering the character of the people for whom they are intended, they can- not be held to be a sufficient substitute for parochial schools. Three additional parochial schools at least, we require, one for Arnisdale, one for Knodyart, one for Morar; and besides these. GLENELG. 143 there are several situations within our wide bounds which would still plead for such valuable aid as we now derive from the patriotic and Christian society to which allusion has been made. The prevalence of Catholicism in the southern districts of the parish declares the necessity of some measure for the supply of the means of instruction ; the want of which has, doubtless, prin- cipally maintained the ascendency of that form of religion there and elsewhere. Though the gospel be preached within the reach of Catholics they will not hear ; it is a virtue, in their esteem, so to act ; and if at any time they be enticed to give their bodily pre- sence, they come so panoplied in ignorance and prejudice, .that of them it may be literally said, " they are like the deaf adder that stop- peth her ear, and will not hearken to the voice of charmers charm- ing never so wisely." If, however, this ignorance and prejudice were removed, might we not expect another character ? If the way were thus prepared through the means of instruction, might we not expect that the gospel would have free course and be glorified among them, hopeless though their case at present seems ? The number of the young betwixt six and fifteen years of age who can neither read nor write may be reckoned, for the whole parish, at 100 ; the number of persons upwards of fifteen years, in similar circumstances, at 900. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of poor on the roll is about 40, — being thus small, from the circumstance that the Ca- tholics never have applied for any portion of the funds. The bene- fit to the other poor from this cause is more than counterbalanced by the fact, that no proclamation of banns in the case of Catholic marriages ever takes place at the parish church, and consequent- ly no payment of the ordinary dues to us. The only funds possessed by the parish are the collections at the church doors, the fees for the proclamation of banns, exclusive of what fall to the share of the session-clerk and beadle ; and the mulcts or tines that are imposed by the kirk-session for various de- linquencies which come within their jurisdiction. The whole never amounts to more than L. 20 Sterling per annum, subject to pay- ment of a small salary to the precentor, stationery for the clerk, and part of the expense incurred on the interment of paupers. The average sum allotted to each person receiving aid is conse- quently small, not exceeding 8s. annually ; which is thankfully re- ceived, and never asked nor allotted, save in cases absolutely requiring it. Of the district of Glenelg .Proper, it has^long been a distinction that few travel from it as beggars into other quar- 144 INVERNESS-SHIRE. ♦ ters, and that those who require aid come not to their neighbours who are able to give, as common beggars, to receive from day to day, or from week to week, a miserable pittance ; but on some few occasions, in course of the year, when they know it will be both convenient and agreeable to bestow the required boon. It follows that the poor among us are comparatively well provided for, upon the whole, without the aid of any public assessment, and purely from the inexhaustible and grateful source of private benevolence. The truly parental leniency of the proprietor produces in a great degree this happy result. Fairs, — In this parish are held three fairs; to correspond with the great fairs in the south ; in the months of May, July, and Sep- tember respectively. Inns, — ITie number of inns is three. Fuel, — The only fuel is peat or turf, excepting that a few of the more wealthy sheep-farmers burn a proportion of coals imported, at considerable expense, from Clyde, and sometimes from Liverpool, Miscellaneous Observations. The most striking variation betwixt the present state of the pa- rish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Ac- count, consists in its being opened up by the road which runs through it ; and by the liebdomadal visits of a steam-boat, regu- larly paid, save during the stormy months of winter. By these means we have learned that there is a world beyond Glenelg. The Chinese-like self-preference which once existed, accompanied by a contempt of those, who, less fortunate than we, had been ordained to draw breath first in some other district, is passing away, and giving place to a more enlightened, a more rational, and Christian feeling. Since the period alluded to, also, the large farm system has come more fully into operation, and its evils have been developed. By it the country has been bereaved of her worthiest children, and, in the exaltation of a few individuals, thousands are doomed to po- verty. The ease to the land-owner in securing the returns of his property can be no compensation for this evil ; and, difficult though the re establishment of another order of things may now be, the gra- dual breaking up of the present system, and engaging the energies of the population who now live without an object, in that line of industry to which they have been accustomed, which they under- stand and love, seems to be the improvement that religion, patri- otism, and sound policy demand in behalf of so large, so valuable and important a portion of the community. January 1836. PARISH OF SMALL ISLES. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. DONALD MACLEAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name of the parish. — This parish derives its name from the islands of which it consists. The chief of these are four in number. They form a part of the western Hebrides, and are surrounded by the Atlantic. Their names are Eigg, Muck, Rum and Canna. To three of them, three lesser islands are respectively attached, or nearly so : — To Eigg, Ellain Chaistal^ or Castle Island ; to Muck, Ellain no *n Eachj or Horse Island ; and to Canna, Ellain Gainmhich or Sandy Island. These lesser islands, with the excep- tion of the last mentioned, are uninhabited. Ei^(/. — The island of Eigg is supposed to derive its name from the Gaelic word -Ec, signifying a niche, nick, or hollow. This ap- pellation is descriptive of the appearance of the island, which is intersected in the middle by a glen, running across from sea to sea. On each side of this glen, the land rises to a considerable elevation, terminating towards the south-west in Scur Eigg, or the lofty rock of Eigg, and towards the north-east in Bein vui, or the yellow mountain. Viewing it from a distance, it appears as if it were two islands separated by an arm of the sea. Extent of Eigg. — Eigg is about 5 or 6 miles in length, and about 3 in breadth, containing about 5580 acres, exclusive of the glebe. Topographical Appearances of Eigg. — The land upon the south side of this island rises gradually from the shore to a considerable elevation. The lower ground is alternately covered with fine grass and heath ; and arable and fertile spots are intermingled with those of a less fertile description. The soil being thin and gravelly, is well adapted for the culture of potatoes and turnips ; but, more especi- ally, the land is fitted for the rearing both of black-cattle and sheep. There are about 3649 acres of moor land in the middle of the island, which are covered with heather and coarse grass, interspersed in some places with a few small fresh water lakes, in which no fish is INVERNESS. K 146 INVKRNESS-SIIIRE. to be found. On the north-west side, is a fine sandy bay, above which there is a considerable extent of low rich ground, very fer- tile, and yielding excellent crops of potatoes, bear, and oats. Here, there is a great quantity of limestone, which might easily be worked, and made available for agricultural and other useful purposes. No attempt of this kind, however, has been as yet made. It is entirely formed of shells. ScurEigg. — Scur Eigg is an immense rock, placed on the summit of the highest land in the island. The front of it looks towards the east, and from the sea assumes a bold and picturesque appearance. From the base it is about 400 feet in perpendicular height. In a clear serene day, the prospect from the top of this rock is beau- tiful and extensive. From this, you see the ocean studded with islands ; ships of all sizes passing and repassing on their various courses ; hills and dales, mountains and glens, — with one continu- ed outline of coast ; all of which to the eye of the beholder must be indeed very interesting. Numerous caves are around the coast ; some of them wide and spacious, and some low and narrow. Among these, is one called in Gaelic naimh Fhraing^ signifying the cave of Frances, — so narrow at the mouth, that a person must creep on hands and knees to obtain an entrance. Within, it is lofty and ex- tensive. In this cave, a great many human bones are still to be seen, said to be the bones of the inhabitants of the island, who were Macdonalds, and who had taken refuge in it as a place of safety, where they were discovered and suffocated by the Macleods, then at enmity with them. Professor Jameson gives the following account of this cave : — " The minister of this parish, who was so good as to accompany us to several parts of the island, led us by a very rugged path to a wild sequestered spot where there is a cave, remarkable, in the annals of this isle, for the murder of the Macdonalds^ inhabitants of Eigg, by the Macleods of Skye. As this story is truly charac- teristic of the state of society in those parts at that period, 1 think it will not be uninteresting to relate it shortly. " A party of the Macleods having landed upon the small island of Eillan Chastel, behaved so outrageously to the women who were there tending cattle, that their friends instantly pursued and put several of them to death. This so enraged the clan of Mac- leod, that they determined to take revenge, by ravaging the isle and putting to death the murderers of their brothers. The island- ers, sensible of their weakness, prepared to shelter themselves upon SMALL ISLES. H7 the first appearance of an enemy. Soon afterwards a number of boats were seen approaching the isle ; when the trembling inhabi- tants retired in despair to this cave, their only refuge. The Mac- leods soon landed and traversed the whole island ; but as they could discover no human being, they concluded that the Mac- donalds had made their escape to the mainland, or to some of the adjacent islands. Disappointed and enraged, they were about to leave Eigg to return to Skye, when unfortunately one of the horde observed the mark of footsteps on the snow ; and thus they were enabled to discover the cave where the WTetched inhabitants had taken refuge. Shrieks of despair were interrupted for a little by a proposal of the Macleods, that, if the murderers were given up to punishment, the other lives should bespared. This was only a cruel aggravation of their sufferings, as the Macleods were the ag- gressors. Connected, as the Macdonalds were, by the dearest ties, they were determined to perish together rather than to give up one of their number. The Macleods, with the most savage barbarity, instantly kindled great fires at the mouth of the cave, which soon suffocated the whole of the miserable inhabitants. " One often listens even to such a tale, as to the description of a battle, without much interest ; but the view of the scene never fails to awaken a keener sympathy, — the circumstances are brought nearer to the mind, and seem to be passing before us. We stood on the very ground where this tragedy was acted, and felt our sen- sibility increased by the sequestered and dreary place in which the deed was done. But even this interest was faint when compared to that we felt when, after creeping a considerable way through a low and narrow entrance, half-covered with brushwood, we found ourselves at last within a large and gloomy cave, the extent and height of which we could not distinguish, and perceived the gleams of the lights we carried reflected from the bones and skulls of the unhappy Macdonalds. The force with which the truth and all the circumstances of this dreadful tale struck at this moment upon our minds, and the strange variety of sensations excited by an event so extraordinary, it is not easy to find words to express. " The entrance of the cave is low and narrow for about 12 feet, the breadth 14 feet, and in length it extends inwards nearly 213 feet. The air was damp and raw. Our lights struck faintly on the black sides of the caves, without dispelling that deep and solemn gloom which harmonized so well with its melancholy story. The projecting masses of rock were dimly illuminated, while the 148 INVERNESS-SHIRE. skulls and scattered bones catched a strong light Our figures, too, touched with the paley flame, showed the features, or an out- stretched arm, while the parts of the body removed from the light were lost in the gloom. Even the deep and sonorous voide of the parson had its effect. The whole scene was admirably adapted for the canvass; but it would require a very rare talent in the painter who should attempt it."* There is no safe harbour in this island for large shipping ; but a quay sufficiently secure for their own purposes has been built by the inhabitants. Name of Much. — The Island of Muck derives its name, it is said, from the monks of lona, — having been first called Monk Island, which afterwards by corruption was changed into Muck. It was in former times church lands, attached to that celebrated monastery. Extent and Topographical Appearances of Muck. — Muck is reck- oned 2 miles long, and 1 broad. It is a low fertile island, well adapted for the rearing of black cattle, and for the cultivation of green and corn crops. With the exception of a little hill in the north end, whose summit is covered with heath, it is all green. The grass is of the finest description. Upon the whole, it is a beautiful little island. There is no safe harbour in it, but small boats are secured by means of a quay, built by the inhabitants. Here there is no peat for fuel, so that the people are under the necessity of importing this necessary article of household economy from the mainland of Ardnamurchan. Name of Rum. — The Island of Rum derives its name from its magnitude and extent, in comparison with the other islands ; Rum signifying in Gaelic roominess or capacity. Extent and Topographical Appearances of Rum. — It is of a circu- lar form, and about 18 or 20 miles in circumference. The island is lofty and mountainous; and although a few of the hills are green, yet the most of them exhibit a rough, abrupt, and craggy appear- ance. From the rocky materials of which they consist, they are^ especially in winter during snow, dangerous and unsafe for shep- herds, who frequent them in quest of sheep, so that upon more than one occasion, some of them have been lost. Upon the east- south-east and north-east sides, the ground is covered for the most part with heath, strong heather, and coarse grass. The soil is soft and wet, composed of peat earth over a substratum of rock. On the west and north-west sides, it is almost all covered with a green • Jameson's Mineralogy of the Scottish Isles, Vol. ii. p. 41, &c. SMALL ISLES. 149 sward ; the grass is fine, and exhibits a striking contrast to the other parts of the island. Some of the hills are here green to the very summits. The soil, the grass, the land and rocks, bear a striking resemblance to those of the opposite coast of Sandy Island, and seem to indicate that, at some former period, they had been separated by some powerful operation of nature. About the middle of the island, among the mountains, are several fresh water lakes of considerable dimensions. Small trout are abundant in some of them. Around this islands the coast is bold and wild ; more especially, the south and west sides are nearly altogether sur- rounded with one continued rampart of rock. Upon the east side, there is a good, safe, and commodious harbour, for all manner of shipping ; and lately an excellent quay has been made there by the present tacksman of the island. Namcj Extent^ S^c. of Canna. — The etymology of Canna is to me unknown. The island is about 5 or 6 miles in length, and 2 or 3 in breadth, containing, exclusive of Sandy Island, 2253 acres, of which 459 are arable, and 1794 are pasture. This island, together with Sandy Island adjoining, are both very fertile, yielding great crops of potatoes, and barley or bear. From 100 to 200 quarters of barley or bear are annually disposed of, and about 3200 bushels of potatoes, — being all the produce of the island, over and above the quantity which the inhabitants re- quire for their own maintenance. The island is all clothed with verdure. The grass is fine and short, and well adapted for the rearing of black-cattle, of which a good many are annually sent to the markets in the south and sold. Here is an excellent har- bour; well sheltered, safe and commodious. In former times, it was much frequented, particularly by the Baltic traders, and is still frequented by shipping of every description. In its vici- nity is an eminence called Compass hill, which is said to disar- range the compass so much, as to cause it to whirl round, so that, when placed near it, no faith can be placed in its magnetic virtue. Geology. — The geology of this parish was first examined by Professor Jameson ; afterwards Dr MacCulloch, in his usual style, published an account of this interesting groupe of islands, but with- out acknowledging the source from which he derived the principal details of its mineralogy. More lately, several continental natu- ralists have visited aad published observations on these islands ; and their natural history has at various times engaged the atten- 150 INVERNESS-SHIRE. tion of British observers. The following notice of the geology of these islands is all we can spare room for : 1. Eigg. — Is composed of those newer secondary strata of sand* stone, limestone, and slate-clay, named lias, and of various trap and pitchstone rocks. The sandstone^ which is generally white, is composed of grains of quartz held together by a basis of marl. Often it exhibits the globular structure first observed in sandstone rocks by Professor Jameson. The limestone is grey, with a com- pact fracture, and contains various organic remains, such as am- monites, belemnites, gryphytes, &c. The slate chy^ which has the usual characters of that substance, contains various organic remains. Fossil plants, still retaining their woody structure, occur in it. The trap rocks, which form so considerable a portion of this island, are of the species known under the names greenstone, amyg- daloid, wacke, and tuflFa. These rocks contain in cavities and small veins various beautiful minerals, such as stilbite, mesotype, analcime, calcareous spar, quartz crystals, and calcedony. The pitchstone rocks are pitchstone, properly so called, and pitchstone porphyry. The pitchstone, which is of various colours, as black, green, blue, sometimes contains mineral oil. This oil, which is the colouring matter of some of the varieties of the pitchstone, oc- curs also in cavities of the rock. The pitchstone prophyry contains in a base of pitchstone crystals of glassy felspar. The rock of the Scuir exhibits one of the most splendid displays of the columnar ar- rangement hitherto discovered in this or in any other country. Pro- fessor Jameson, who first made known this splendid scene in his " Mineralogy of the Western Islands," has the following remarks: " We now ascended from this point to the Scuir Eigg, which we have before observed to be the highest part of the island. This hill, from its peculiar shape, has at a distance a singular appear- ance ; but as we approach nearer, it rises much in grandeur, and at length a stupendous columnar promontory bursts on our view. The whole of this promontory is perfectly mural, and extends for upwards of a mile and a-half, and rises to a height of several hun- dred feet It is entirely columnar, and the columns rise in suc- cessive ranges until they reach the summit, where, from their great height, they appear, when viewed from below, diminutive. Staffa is an object of the greatest beauty and regularity ; the pillars are as distinct as if they had been reared by the hand of art; but it has not the extent or sublimity of the Scuir Eigg. The one may be compared with the greatest exertions of human power ; the SMALL ISLES. 151 Other is characteristic of the wildest and most inimitable works of nature." The Scuir Eigg Dr MacCulloch maintains to be the old- est of the igneous rocks in the island, although even the merest tyro in geology could show that it is the newest. 2. Rum. — This rugged island is composed of an old red sand- stone, which is traversed and overlaid by various plutonian or ig- nigenous rocks. The red sandstone, which is distinctly stratified, dipping generally to the south-west, alternates with beds of a red- coloured slate clay. The plutonian rocks are the following : au- gite-greenstone, (in some parts forming an augite rock,) amygda- loid, basaltic greenstone, and porphyry sometimes assuming the syenitic character. In cliffs of amygdaloid opposite the island of Canna, there occur beautiful varieties of heliotrope or blood-stonfe, of calcedony, and other minerals usually met with in cavities and veins in amygdaloidal rocks. 3. Canna. — Is composed chiefly of ignigenous rocks of the trap series, — very small portions only of the lias, a secondary rock, occur- ring in the island. The ignigenous rocks are common augite- greenstone, basaltic greenstone, amygdaloid, and trap tuffa. The trap tuffa, which occurs very abundantly in the island, is made up of rounded fragments of trap, sandstone, granite, &c. cemented by a trap base. In some places, Professor Jameson observed pieces of wood, resembling the surturbrand of Iceland, imbedded in it ; also thin seams of brown coal. Cavities in the amygdaloid are lined with zeolites of different species, much prized by collectors of mi- nerals, also crystals of calcareous spar. II. — Civil History. Land'Owners. — Dr Hugh Macpherson, Professor of Greek in King's College, Aberdeen, is proprietor of the Island of Eigg. It became his property by purchase at Whitsunday 1828. Before that period, it, with the Island of Canna, formed a part of the large and extensive possessions of the ancient family of Clanranald. The Islands of Rum and Muck belong to Maclean of Coll, and the Is- land of Canna to Macneil, who likewise got possession of it by pur- chase in 1828. Parochial Registers. — Parochial registers have never been regu- larly kept in this parish. Antiquities. — Two fortifications seem to have been in the Islands of Muck and Canna (one in each,) though now so much defaced by time, that scarce any vestige ofthemcanbe traced. Each of them had the name of Dun^ signifying a castle or fort, — the one in Muck 152 INVERNESS-SHIRE. being named Dun Ban or White Castle ; and that in Canna, Corra Dhun or unsteady fort, from the small extent of its foundation, it being placed on a high and very narrow rock. From this castle, one of the farms in the island still takes its name. About the centre of the Island of Rum, long dikes may still be traced, which, beginning at considerable distances from each other, gradually approach, until at last they draw pretty near to one another. These are said to have been intended as toils for deer, which were once, as is well known, numerous in that island. To these enclosures the inhabit- ants collected them, and, forcing them by degrees to their narrow- est recesses, they were finally caught by their pursuers. The places where these enclosures were made still maintain the names of TigKn Sealffy that is, the hunting-houses; so that it is likely that at the termination of the dikes, houses were erected, into which the deer were constrained to enter, and in this manner a number of them would be at once secured. Mansion^Houses, — With the exception of Mr MacneiPs house in Canna, there are no other mansion-houses. He is the only heritor that resides within the bounds of the parish. His house was originally intended for a farm-house, but lately he improved it considerably, — insomuch, that it is now a large, commodious, and comfortable habitation. Behind the dwelling-house is his garden, which is well stocked both with ornamental and fruit trees, and is otherwise exceedingly productive — in greens and roots. In this garden are the only trees which are to be seen upon the island. In the Island of Rum, a good dwelling house, with splendid of- fices, was erected by Dr Maclean, the present tacksman, in 1826, who spared neither pains nor expense in draining, fencing, and planting around his residence, at the end of the harbour in that is- land. His improvements have been carried on, on a very exten- sive scale. They exhibit both taste and judgment, and to reward his diligence, his plantation of trees is now in a forward and thriv- ing state. The other islands may be said to be as nature left them, saving that in Eigg tolerable farm-houses are to be found. III. — Population. In 1831, the population of the parish was found to be 1015 souls. Some years previous it was much greater. In 1826, all the inhabitants of the Island of Rum, amounting at least to 400 souls, found it necessary to leave their native country, and to seek for new abodes in the distant wilds of our colonies in America. Of all the old residenters, only one family remained upon the SMALL ISLES. 153 island. The old and the young, the feeble and the strong, were all united in this general emigration, — the former to find tombs in a foreign land, — the latter to encounter toils, privations, and dan- gers, to become familiar with customs, and to acquire habits, — to which they had formerly been entire strangers. A similar emigra- tion took place in 1828^ from the Island of Muck, so that the pa- rish has now been much depopulated. The population of Rum was thus reduced from 400 to 100 or 130. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, with the rearing of black-cattle and sheep, is the prevailing occupation in these islands. The sea-weed, both that which is cut, and that which is cast ashore by the winter storms, is the chief manure. With the aid of this, the people generally raise as many potatoes, (on which they for the most part subsist,) as are requisite for their maintenance during the whole of the year, — each family requiring from 240 to 320 bushels. From 300 to 400 heads of black-cattle are annually sold in the parish to deal- ers at home, who again bring them to the south country markets for sale. The number of sheep pastured in the Island of Rum atone is about 8000, which are all of the black-faced kind, and which are likewise all salved or smeared. Among the inhabitants are some artisans, such as weavers, boat-builders, smiths, tailors, and one shoemaker : but although these devote some of their time to the various employments of their calling, yet they chiefly depend upon their agricultural occupations for their subsistence. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no villages ; and no inns, excepting one in the Island of Eigg. In each of the islands, there was formerly an inn. There is no packet, nor any regular means of communication with the post-office or main-land from any one of the islands. For this and other reasons, every person is under the necessity of keeping a boat always in readiness for his own comfort and convenience. The distance between the Island of Eigg and the nearest post-office at Arisaig is thirteen or fourteen miles. The other islands are at much more considerable distances. A road has been carried across the Island of Eigg, by the statute labour of the inhabitants. Ecclesiastical State. — There is no church on any of the is- lands. In Eigg we assemble in the school-house for public wor- ship ; but in the other islands we sometimes meet in the fields, when we cannot conveniently get a house to receive us. The manse was erected in the Island of Eigg in 1790. It has been often repair- INVERNESS. L 154 INVERNESS-SHIRE. ed, but it is so much exposed to the winter gales, and so high above the level of the sea, that it is hardly possible to make it comfort- able, or to keep it so for any length of time. The glebe is a grass glebe, and may maintain sixteen soums of black-cattle The stipend is one of the small livings, and Government pays L. 64, 16s. annually. Education. — There is but one parochial school in the parish. It is in the Island of Eigg. The house was built in 1829, and made very comfortable. The salary was, the same year, in- creased from L. 18 to L. 30. The school fees may amount to L. 10 a year. The present schoolmaster is not noted for atten- tion to his scholars, or diligence in the discharge of his duty. He seldom has more than from 20 to 30 scholars, and often he has none, the parents withholding them from the school, as knowing that they make no progress in their education under him. Ex- cepting in the Island of Muck, where the Gaelic School Society has had a teacher for the last three years, there is no other school in any of the islands. Principal Baird, has, however, promised to send one, if the requisite accommodations can be obtained from the heritor. There are about 600 persons above six years of age in this parish who can neither write nor read. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor upon the roll in this parish is 10. They live in their own houses, or with their nearest relations. The only fund from which they derive any be- nefit is one of L. 30, bequeathed by the late Captain Mackaskill of Morinish, in the Island of Mull. Any addition to the interest of this sum is made up by fines. We have no beggars. January 1836. ■i SMALL ISLES. 153 island. The old and the young, the feeble and the strong, were all united in this general emigration, — the former to find tombs in a foreign land, — the latter to encounter toils, privations, and dan- gers, to become familiar with customs, and to acquire habits, — to which they had formerly been entire strangers. A similar emigra- tion took place in 1828, from the Island of Muck, so that the pa- rish has now been much depopulated. The population of Rum was thus reduced from 400 to 100 or 130. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, with the rearing of black-cattle and sheep, is the prevailing occupation in these islands. The sea-weed, both that which is cut, and that which is cast ashore by the winter storms, is the chief manure. With the aid of this, the people generally raise as many potatoes, (on which they for the most part subsist,) as are requisite for their maintenance during the whole of the year, — each family requiring from 240 to 320 bushels. From 300 to 400 heads of black-cattle are annually sold in the parish to deal- ers at home, who again bring them to the south country markets for sale. The number of sheep pastured in the Island of Rum alone is about 8000, which are all of the black-faced kind, and which are likewise all salved or smeared. Among the inhabitants are some artisans, such as weavers, boat-builders, smiths, tailors, and one shoemaker : but although these devote some of their time to the various employments of their calling, yet they chiefly de- pend upon their agricultural occupations for their subsistence. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no villages ; and no inns, excepting one in the Island of Eigg. In each of the islands, there was formerly an inn. There is no packet, nor any regular means of communication with the post-office or mainland from any one of the islands. For this and other reasons, every person is under the necessity of keeping a boat always in readiness for his own comfort and convenience. The distance between the Uland of Eigg and the nearest post-office at Arisaig is thirteen or fourteen miles. The other islands are at much more considerable distances. A road has been carried across the Island of Eigg, by the statute labour of the inhabitants. Ecclesiastical State, — There is no church on any of the islands. In Eigg we assemble in the school-house for public worship ; but in the other islands we sometimes meet in the fields, when we c;m- not conveniently get a house to receive us. The manse was erected in the Island of Eigg in 1790. It has been often repair- is ./.a nbss. L 154 INVERNESS-SHIRli. ed, but it is so much exposed to the winter gales, and so high above the level of the sea, that it is hardly possible to make it comfort- able, or to keep it so for any length of time. The glebe is a grass glebe, and may maintain sixteen soums of black-cattle. The stipend is one of the small livings, and Government pays L.64, 16s annually. Education. — There is but one parochial school in the parish. It is in the Island of Eigg. The house was built in 1829, and made very comfortable. The salary was, the same year, in- creased from L. 18 to L. 30. The school fees may amount to L. 1 a year. The present schoolmaster is not noted for atten- tion to his scholars, or diligence in the discharge of his duty. He seldom has more than from 20 to 30 scholars, and often he has none, the parents withholding them from the school, as knowing that they make no progress in their education under him. Ex- cepting in the Island of Muck, where the Gaelic School Society has had a teacher for the last three years, there is no other school in any of the islands. Principal Baird has, however, promised to send one, if the requisite accommodations can be obtained from the heritor. There are about 600 persons above six years of age in this parish who can neither write nor read. Poor and Parochial jFimcfe.— The number of poor upon the roll in this parish is 10. They live in their own houses, or with their nearest relations. The only fund from which they derive any be- nefit is one of L#. 30, bequeathed by the late Captain Macaskill of Morinish, in the Island of Mull. Any addition to the interest of this sum is made up by fines. We have no beggars. January 1836. PARISH OF HARRIS. PRESBYTERY OF UIST, SYNOD OF 6LENELG. THE REV. JOHN M ACIVOR, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Till of late, this parish was designed Kilbride. It is now denominated in English, Harris; and evidently derives its name from " na hardibhj* — a Gaelic expression signifying the heights, — this parish being the highest and most mountainous part of the long island in which it is situated. Extent and Boundaries. — Its extent from north to south is 50 miles, and its breadth varies from 8 to 24 miles. Its superficial extent is upwards of 146 square miles. It is bounded on the north, by the parishes of Lochs and Uig in Lewis ; on the west, by the Atlantic Ocean ; on the east, by the channel ; and on the south, by the parish of North Uist, from which it is separated by a nar- row sound, running betwixt the Island of Bernera and Uist, called Caolas Uisty t. e. the Sound of Uist. A chain of mountains run along from the sound of Harris to the boundaries of Lewis, the highest average from 2000 to 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The shore along the west coast is, in some parts, sandy, in other parts rocky and precipitous. The east coast is indented with harbours, bays, and creeks. Islands. — A multitude of islands lie irregularly interspersed through the sound of Harris. Four of these are inhabited, viz. Bernera, Pabba, Ensay, and Killigray ; the rest are consigned to pasturage. The other islands of any extent in the parish are Scalpa, Tarrensay, and Scarp : these are all peopled. Meteorology^ Sfc. — The temperature of the atmosphere for eight months is cold and moist ; during^ the rest of the year, it is mild. The winds blow more frequently from the south and west than any other point. The greatest quantity of rain falls in the months of September, October, and November. The most prevalent com- plaint is rheumatism. The climate is considered very salubrious. The fresh water lakes and rivulets that intersect the country are so numerous, that it is impossible to particularize them. The 156 INVBRNESS-SHIRE. waters of Lacksta, Scunt, and Obbe teem with salmon and trout, and aSbrd delightful sport to the angler. Geology. — The predominating rock in this parish is gneiss, but subordinate to it are many other rocks of the primitive class. It is much to be regretted that hitherto no skilful geologist has fully examined the numerous mineralogical and geological relations of the rocks of Harris. Zoology. — Grouse, which were very plentiful on the moors, some years ago, have lately suffered from the depredations of the pole- cat and other vermin. Large herds of deer range among the hills and glens. Innumerable flocks of geese, plover, and pigeons fre- quent the low grounds and islands. The eagle visits the inacces- sible rocks. The natives occasionally capture with the harpoon the sun-fish, which loiters along the coast during the summer months, and slaughter with clubs a considerable number of seals in the island of Gaasker. Oysters are very abundant, and several boats are engaged in the fishing of lobsters, which are regularly forwarded bv smacks to the London market. Particular attention has been^paid to the rearing of black-cattle and sheep. Cheviots have been introduced into the country, and are found to answer uncommonly well. II.-— Civil History. Land'OWTur. — The Earl of Dunmore is sole proprietor of the parish. Parochial Register. — It is only within the last few years that a parochial register of marriages and births has been^regularly kept. Antiquities. — At Rodil stand the ruins of the church['attached to the Priory of St Clements. It was once used as one of the pa- rochial places of worship in this parish, but has been deserted froQi its dilapidated state. Among the remains ascribed to Druidism are two stones raised on end, about eight feet above the ground, and surrounded by a circle of smaller stones. There is scarcely a vestige of the Danish fortresses extant, the materials having been applied to other buildings. HI. — Population. In the year 1755, the population amounted to 1969 souls; in 1792, to 2536; and at the present period, it is upwards of 4000. By the last census, there were, males, 1 863 ; females, 2037 ; fa- milies, 777 ; houses inhabited, 759. Language. — The Gaelic language is universally spoken. Character and Habits of the People, — The people are generally sober and industrious. Some of their articles of dress are of the HAUIilS. 157 most primitive description, and of the coarsest materials, all n>a- nnfactured by themselves. Their food principally consists of po- tatoes, fish, and meal. They seldom can indulge themselves in the luxury of either beef or mutton. Crime is very rare among them. There is not a tradition of a murder, and thefi; is also un- frequent. A powerful religious revival took place among them five years ngo, and in consequence the Sabbath is strictly observed. IV. — Industry. Agrictdture, — The arable ground is of very small extent The district is more adapted for pasture. Some of the most fertile farms, possessed by small tenants, have been depopulated, and con- verted into extensive sheep-walks. RerUn — When kelp was in great demand, the rental of this pro- perty amounted to L.7000 a year ; it is now reduced to L.8500. The estate was purchased a few years ago by Lord Dunmore for L.60,000. Rate ofWagesn — Farm-servants receive from L.3 to L.3, 10s. in the half-year, and female servants from L.I, 5s. to L.], 10s. during the same period. Masons and carpenters from Is. 6d. to 2s. per diem, exclusive of victuals. No leases have been hitherto given to small tenants on the estate, which must necessarily prevent the improvement of the soil. The cottages occupied by these humble men are of very small dimensions, composed of unhewn stone and earth for mor- tar, thatched with straw, in which they and their families, as well as their cows and horses, live for seven months in the year. The most respectable farm-steadings are built of stone and lime, but, from long unoccupancy, are now generally, if not wholly, falling rapidly into decay. Fisheries. — Various attempts were made by Alexander Mac- leod, Esq., the late worthy and benevolent proprietor, to establish fishing colonies in several parts of this parish ; but they all proved unsuccessful. Produce. — The average annual value of raw produce raised in the country may be estimated as follows : — Oats and barley, about - L.2500 Potatoes, aooo Hay, 400 Sheep, Black.cattlc, 1200 1500 Wool, - 1600 Fisheries, 400 Kelp, 1300 Total raw produce, . L. 11,900 158 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Manufactures. — There is no manufacture of any kind but that of kelp, in which all the population capable of manual labour is employed for two months in the year. Navigation. — There are only four small vessels belonging to owners on this property. They are employed in transferring kelp to market. The harbour of Scalpa is much resorted to by foreign shipping. V. — Parochial Economt. Ecclesiastical State. — The year in which the parish church (which is now in ruins) was built cannot be accurately ascertained. It is about the centre of the parish, and formerly accommodated t250 sitters. The present incumbent has applied for a new church.* The manse was built in 1827, and the value of the glebe is about L#.16. The stipend has been made up by Government to L.150. A Government church was erected at Bernera in 1829. The district assigned to the pastor comprehends all the islands in the Sound of Harris. A missionary is supported by the Royal Bounty at Tarbart. A church and manse were granted for his ac« commodation by the late proprietor, A. N. Macleod. All the pa- rishioners profess to belong to the Established Church. The an- nual church collections amount to L.2. Education. — The total number of schools in the parish are four, — one parochial, and three supported by the Gaelic School So* ciety. The branches taught in the parish school are, Latin, aritb- metic, writing, and English reading. The parochial schoolmaster has only L.21 of salary, and fees are seldom exacted. The school-house is in such a wretched state of repair, that parents have been under th6 necessity of withdrawing their children. Very few above thirty years are able to read. The young people read the Scriptures in their native tongue. Poor. — The church collections are so trifling, that a distribution of the funds rarely takes place. They are expended in the inter- ment of paupers. It would be highly desirable that the proprie- tors should give an annual allowance for the support of the poor in the parish. Fairs. — The annual cattle-tryst takes place in the month of July. /ww.— There are two licensed inns in the parish. They are seldom frequented by the natives. -^wtf/. — Peat is the only fuel used by the inhabitants. • A new church was erected last season capable of accommodating 400 sitters. north uist. 159 Miscellaneous Observations. The condition of the people might be ameliorated by enlarging their tenements of land, granting leases, and giving encouragement to schools. Churches and school-houses have been hitherto much neglected. r Dravm up Dece^nber 18^9, revised J nuary 184L PARISH OF NORTH UIST. PRESBYTERY OF UIST, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. FINLAY M*RAE, MINISTER, L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The term Uist may be distinctly traced to the word VUt^ which the Danes and other northern nations are said to use, signifying the west Extent J §*c — The length of North Uist is about 30 miles, and its breadth varies from 8 to 14 miles. The exact number of square miles it contains, it is not easy very accurately to ascer- tain, the greater part of it being, beyond description, indented by arms of the sea and fresh water lakes. North Uist lies nearly in the middle of the range of islands from the But, or northernmost point of the Lewis to Barra Head, the southernmost part. This range taken together b denominated the Long Island. Boundaries. — It is bounded on the north-east by the Sound of Harris, varying in breadth from 1 to 8 miles, and which separates it from the parish of the same name ; on the south-east, by the Minch, or a channel of about 16 miles breadth, which divides it from Skye ; on the south-west, it is divided from Benbecula, a part of the parish of South Uist, by sands of some extent, passable on foot at low-water, but covered by the sea at about half-tide ; and OD the north-west, by the Atlantic Ocean. Topographical Appearances. — Its figure is almost triangular* Along the east coast, there is a range of hills, scarcely deserving the name of mountains, rising gradually from the north to the south, and varying in height from 300 to above 700 feet. These are intersected, not by ravines, valleys, and rivulets, but by inlets IGO INVERNESS-SHIUE. of the sea, forming safe and commodious harbours, and supplying shelter and safety to the weather-beaten ship and to the storm- weary sailor. Within this range, towards the west, is a large extent of soft, deep, barren moor, intersected in every direction by fresh water lakes of several miles in length. Farther on still, in the same di- rection, another less regular range of hills, of no great height, arises covered with heath and some coarse pasture ; and beyond, is a thin black moor, covering hard gravel, and occasionally inter- spersed with flats and meadows. Next to this, still to the west, is the part principally appropriated to pasture and culture, which exhibits a striking contrast to the barren, boggy, and useless scene behind. With the exception of a few bold rocky headlands, the west coast is all along bounded with light white sands, chiefly formed of shells, crumbled and pounded by the irresistible force of the Atlantic waves, gathering strength as they unintemiptedly roll their magnificent, awfully grand, and incalculable force upon the shores. The sand, or rather shells, thus literally ground to beautiful fineness, is, when dry, wafted by the winds into the interior of the country to a very considerable distance; and possessing the qualities of lime, it adds much to the productive qualities and the beauty of the belt over which it extends. This belt which, generally speaking, is the only cultivated part of the west side, is ex- ceedingly beautiful and pleasant in the summer and autumn months. If these seasons be accompanied with warmth and mois- ture, this part yields the richest pasture of white and red clover, . and other plants and herbs delighting in dry sandy situations. It also yields luxuriant crops of barley or bear, and^ under proper management, grain crops of every description. In dry seasons, however, by the heat of the sand, the grass becomes sickly, wither- ed, and of a burnt appearance; the crops on the machirs^ a term used for sandy soil, fail ; and vegetation appears almost destroyed. Although, during a favourable summer season, the country exhibits a delightful prospect of beauty and luxuriance, the scene is totally changed during the winter and spring months. Without high hills, and destitute of trees to shelter from the tremendous gales which during these seasons prevail, bare and unprotected, the face of the country lies exposed to their influence. The .finer, the softer, the more tender, and the more valuable grasses are melted away by the rain, the frost, and storms ; and the cattle, at NORTH UIST. 161 this time of the year, principally depend for their sustenance on the stores of the corn-yards ; and if this source prove not sufficient, the loss of many valuable cattle is the consequence, and a scarcity of provisions among the poorer of the inhabitants in summer. The cattle being out-liers, or not housed, in the circumstances I have stated, they must suffer. But the remark does not apply to the east side of thd country, where there are excellent winterings for cattle. The west side of Uist is not, for the reason stated, so valuable for wintering as the less fine and more rough pasture of Skye and Harris. Caves. — Of caves or caverns — there are only two worth" describ- ing. One of these is at the point of Tighary, situated at a short dis* tance from the parish church. It is hollowed, a considerable space in the rock, by the action of the waves, which beat with violence against the point where it is formed. The outer or external side of the cave is naturally yet regularly arched through the solid rock. Within this arch, from the superincumbent surface, is an opening of about twelve feet diameter. The immense volume of flood poured into the cave, too copious at once to recede, rises during and after a storm, as if from the bowels of the earth, in splendid magnificence, to the height of upwards of 200 feet. It is called Sloch-a-chorry, or cave of the kettle. Three miles from this, on the farm of Scol- peg, is the other cave, similarly formed, but more extensive and capacious, and in consequence not producing the like phenome- non ; but exhibiting awful grandeur to such as admire ** cliffs of darkness, caves of wonder. Echoing the Atlantic*s thunder.** Harbours, — It has been already observed that the greater.part of the coast washed by the Atlantic is bordered with flat sands. This renders it inaccessible and unsafe for vessels of considerable size. There are some places, however, on the west coast, where vessels belonging to the country and others take shelter, and ship kelp in the summer season. These places are Digmore, on the farm of Bal- ranald, not far from the middle of the parish. The bay of Houg- whary, a few miles farther north, where, at an inconsiderable ex- pense, a key or breakwater might be erected to protect small ves* sels while shipping or discharging such produce as might be ex- ported from or imported to the very populous district in its imme- diate neighbourhood. At a distance of about six miles farther north, at each end of the Island of Vallay, there is a safe anchorage. That at the 162 INVKRNESS-SHIRE. east eDd of the island, if better known, might afford safety to ships in distress. At the Island of Lingay, ten miles farther north still, there is an excellent anchorage. The best of these are, during the stormy season, dangerous on account of the rocks, shoals, and breakers by which they are sur- rounded, and will only be sought for in cases of extremity and danger. In order to afford a chance of relief and safety, it is pro* per they should be known. Six miles to the west of North Uist lies the Island of Husker, about two miles long but very narrow. In this island there is likewise an anchoring-place. From its situation, and a short dis- tance to the west of it being clear of rocks, it would prove an eli- gible station for a lighthouse, which, in connection with that lately erected at Barrahead, would undoubtedly be the means of warn- ing many ships of the danger of getting embayed and wrecked on a dangerous coast. If nature has denied to one side of North Uist places of pro- tection and security for shipping, she has amply remunerated the deficiency to the other. The south-east coast is very bold, bound- ed all along by the range of hills or mountains already described, except where intersected by inlets of the sea. These inlets, situated at nearly regular distances of six miles from each other, form safe and commodious harbours. That farthest north, situated at the boundary of the parish in that direction, is Cheesebay, a har- bour of easy access from the south-east, and safe for vessels of any burden at all seasons of the year. South of this is Lochmaddy, which, by the rising ground on either side, and the numerous islands it contains, forms not a harbour only, but harbours, numerous, safe, and capacious, sufficient to sup- ply accommodation for almost any amount of shipping. It likewise affords an admirable outlet for vessels going either north or south. It is well-known and is much frequented. It derives its name from three bold rocks, called Madies or dogs, nearly in a line, a little beyond the entrance of the harbour. Two of these rocks are decidedly basaltic, rising precipitously from the deep to the height of about eighty feet; and although within 100 yards of the coast, they are of a character and species totally different from any rock along its shores. As lighthouses are, in this age, fortunately multiplying for the encouragement of commerce, and the safety of human life, few stations are more suitable than Maddy More^ the 4 NORTH UIST. 163 highest of the basaltic pillars mentioned, which points to, or ra- ther is at the very entrance of one of the finest harbours in Scot- land. South of this is Loch-west, which extends six miles into the country. The entrance is narrow, but the anchoring-ground safe, and would undoubtedly be more frequented, did not its more capa« cious and better-known neighbour, Lochmaddy, almost monopolize the trade. Southward still is the harbour of Rhueva, which, likewise, is very narrow at its inlet, but safe when entered. And lastly, at the southern extremity of the parish, is the harbour of Keallin, formed by the point of the same name and the Island of Ronay. It is considered safe for vessels of no large burden. The grounds along these harbours, generally barren and mossy, afford no idea of the fertility and beauty which the west side pre- sents. Islands. — About two miles from North Uist, and to the north of it, lies Boveray, an island a mile and a-half long and half-a mile broad. It is very fertile, supporting thirty families in comfort equal to that possessed by others of their class in this part of the coun- try. Further south, and adjoining the main-land of North Uist, is Orinsay, about half-a mile long, and insulated only at high water. Of this description there are several along the west and south- west coast of the parish. Four miles from this coast to the west- ward lies Vallay, likewise an island at high water, and separated from the shore by a spacious strand of nearly two miles, which is dry within two hours of high water, and at low neap-tides is not covered by the sea. It is two miles long, and about a quarter of a mile broad ; nearly the whole of it sandy. It is beautiful in pasture, and fer- tile in crops when the summer is rainy, but produces very little of either when that season is dry. The next island is Husker, al- ready mentioned. The islands of Kirkebost and Illeray stretch along the west coast, both insulated only at high water. The latter is aboutfour miles long ; the former, or Kirkebost, is a mile long, but of no great breadth. This island was at one time of considerable value. It is composed of the fine sand already described, and being exposed to the western gales, a great part of it was literally blown away, and the sea now occupies fields which formerly produced fine crops of bear or barley. This destruction took place before a process now practised to obviate such a misfortune was known, to which we shall in the proper place advert. Along the south-west coast, the strand, dividing North Uist from 16*4 INVKRNKSS-SHIttE. Benbecula, is studded with a great cluster of islands of various Sizes. Grimisay, the largest of these, formerly considered of little value, now supports 40 families. At the southernmost point of North Uist is the island of Ronay, which at one time was of little^value, but is now improved by culture, and considered one of the most valuable gratings in the parish. Besides those described, there are three islands or large rocks which lie opposite the west coast, and which, from time immemo- rial, have been attached to the farms opposite to them, in various divisions. These are still retained possession of, not for their pas- ture, — for pasture there is none, — but for the seals they pro- duce. In the proper season, under certain regulations, a boat is sent to each rock, the crew being furnished with large clubs, which they use dexterously. When successful, the division is made according to ancient rule, with scarcely a murmur or dispute.^ The proprietor is entitled to four, and the minister to one seal* This the latter receives not as a tithe, but because the glebe compre- hends a part of a farm which is entitled to a share of the rock. There are a great number of islands in the inlets of the sea ; and also in the fresh-water lakes. The larger and more important islands in the latter have become the principaVresort of the red deer. Diseases. — Typhus fever, formerly so fatal, is now hardly known. This may undoubtedly be ascribed to the change in the habitations of the people, which took place in consequence of the lotting system. Before this system was introduced, the whole houses on a farm, to the number of from 20 to 60, were crowded and huddled together in a manner most unfriendly to cleanliness ; but now, every small tenant has his cottage on his own croft, each at some distance from his neighbour's. The climatei notwithstanding, cannot be said to be unhealthy, and, though hu- mid, less rain falls here than in Skye, where the exceedingly high mountains attract the clouds with a force conveying them over and beyond this comparatively flat country. Hydrography. — We have stated that there are numerous fresh water lakes of considerable extent; with some of these the sea communicates at high tides. They are inhabited by a few salmon and trout of various kinds, and of good quality and flavour. Though there are no fresh water streams deserving the name of river, there are some inlets of the sea of great strength and rapi- dity. Over three of these, wooden bridges have been erected, which have immensely shortened the line of road. NORTH UIST. 165 Geology, — The chief rock in this parish is the stratified species called gneiss. Intermingled with this interesting primitive depo- sit, other rocks occur more or less abundantly in beds, veins, &c. We trust, that, ere long, some one competent will be induced to visit us, and examine the numerous interesting geological arrange- ments of our district. Zoology. — The variety of aquatic birds along the coast, and in the innumerable islands of the fresh water lakes, is numerous be- yond description : there, thousands of the duQk tribe build their nests and hatch their young. Of these the largest and most beau- tiful is the eider-duck, valuable more for its feathers than flesh, the flavour of which is coarse, fishy, and rank. The male is ele- gantly streaked with white along the sides, and the other part is a dusky brown, the last being the prevailing colour of the female. This kind, though now numerous, was unknown, I am informed, not many years ago. Besides those that rear their young on our shores, vast numbers emigrate and winter with us, such as the widgeon and many others. Swans, too, annually pay us a visit, and by their early or late appearance, the natives anticipate a severe or mild winter. The gray wild geese are inhabitants of, and hatch in, the islands and along the shores of the fresh water lakes ; whence in August, they come to the cultivated plains, in flocks of five and six hundred, and attack the barley fields. To obviate their destructive attacks, fires are lighted, clappers driven by the jwind are erected, and some other devices used to scare them away. In winter, they are joined by innumerable flocks of the barnacle goose, and both are seen in flocks of incredible numbers. The green plovers in large flocks are here for the whole year^ and also the curlew. The May fowls, a species of curlew, pay us a visit, and remain with us during that month. Moorfowl, snipe, and woodcock are inhabitants of our hills and moors, and pigeons of our caves ; so that to the sportsmen there is presented a great variety of amuse- ment, at all seasons of the year. To these may be added other animals, in compassing the destruction of which, the sportsman seems to enjoy no small delight. Of these, along the shore are the otter and the seal; and in the larger islands on the fresh wafer lakes so often mentioned, is a considerable number of red-deer. The mode of stalking the last is so peculiar that we are tempted briefly to describe it. The sportsmen ren- dezvous at a place previously fixed on, and each with an attend- 1G6 INVERNESS-SHIRE. ant is appointed to a pass along the lakes, which he cautiously approaches, and when all are presumed to be at their stations, an- other party, with a small boat provided for the purpose, come up as quietly as possible. The deer, scared from their fastnesses in the islands,' make for some of the passes, and it very rarely hap- pens that a chance of a good shot is not afforded to some one or more of the sportsmen concealed under the cover of the heather. The black-cattle, sheep, and horses, which formerly were bred here, like those throughout the Long Island, were small, and a very great proportion of the sheep still reared are the indigenous breed, and of very diminutive size. Their numbers are considerable, but they never thrive so as to enable their possessors to sell or export any of them beyond the island. Their mutton is deliciously fine-fla- voured ; their quantity of wool, though very fine, is exceeding small, each fleece being from one and a-half to two pounds in weight Stocking with sheep has been introduced lately in a few favour- able situations, and on a limited scale ; and they appear to answer well. All the sheep exported or sold from the parish, do not exceed from six to seven hundred. The breed of black-cattle has been immensely improved, within the last twenty years, by the introduction of superior Highland cattle and bulls from various quarters, at an enormous expense ; and in consequence, there are some stocks which yield to none in the Highlands, in point of united symmetry and weight. The cattle of the small tenants, too, are on a scale of rapid improvement, in consequence of the liberal and wise measure which the proprietor some years ago commenced, and still continues, of giving premiums annually for the best hulls exhibited by the small tenant farms. There can be no doubt, that, by a similar regulation and encou- ragement, the small breed of sheep would be rendered more va- luable, and would amply compensate for the necessary outlay. The horses used by the tacksmen are of equal size and value as those kept for similar purposes in the south of Scotland ; and in general, the horses of the small tenants are of a larger and bet- ter description than formerly. We have already mentioned that the lakes are stocked with trout. In some of them with which the sea communicates, sythe and some other fish are found of large size and of fine quality, and partaking in some degree of the flavour of fresh water trout The inlets of the sea are not very productive of many varieties offish. On the east side are some good red or rock cod, and on the west, along the fords- NORTH UI8T. ^67 or channels of the strands, and on the adjacent shallows without, are very fine large flounder, little inferior to turbot. The great re- source for sustenance, particularly in a season of scarcity, is the cockle — a shell-fish of no large dimension, which is found in inex- haustible abundance on the strands, where, on the retiring of the tide, hundreds of people are seen collecting them. They are an ex- cellent and nutritious food ; made up into stews with some milk and with a little bread, they form a principal part of the diet of poor people in seasons of scarcity. As an article of luxury, they form excellent sauce with fish of every description, and used raw they are little inferior to oysters. Besides this valuable shell-fish, there are razor- fish, spout-fish, welks, muscles, limpets, and in many parts lobsters, crabs, clams, &c. The cockle, besides its importance as an article of food, is of importance in some manufactures. Its shell when burned forms the best lime known. In strength, it is superior to any other, and in whiteness it vies with snow itself. In a manufacture of kelp in- to soda, lately erected by Lord Macdonald at Lochmaddy, the cockle shell is used in place of lime. The quantity required for this, and used for lime in this parish, cannot be of less value than L.200 a-year. Botany. — It is not our intention to enter into any lengthened de- tail on this subject, but merely to mention a few grassies and plants which are converted to the immediate benefit of the inhabitants. Amongst these the most generally and beneficially used is the bent, a grass which grows in the driest sand-banks to the height of from one to two feet It is very tough, and in some degree elastic, and is used by the poor people for many purposes, such as mounting for their crooksaddlesand creels, sacks for their corn, meal, &c. It makes excellent mats for doors and passages. But its principal use is, to plant it for the suppression of sand drift. The wild spinage and wild carrot are used for food ; the tormentil root, for barking leather ; the rue water-lily root and crottle, for dyes ; the hemlock, foxglove, tussilago, wild thyme, and tre- foil are used medicinally ; the black and red slock or laver, found on the rocks, makes excellent soup ; and dulse is used in a raw and boiled state. Here we may mention also, a kind of earth found in the moors, used for cleaning metals, called moine nan umud^ and an earth termed dubhoch^ used with other mixtures for dyes. The insect most injurious to vegetation, and particularly de- 168 INVERNESS-SHIRE. structive to corn at an early stage of its growth, is the grub-worm^ against whose inroads no effectual means have been devised. At some remote period, woods undoubtedly had extensively grown in this quarter, although now no trees naturally grow in it. That this had been the case is evident from the fact, that the roots of trees are found in peat mosses, and, what is still more remarkable and unaccountable, they are found under high* water mark, nearly as low as the water recedes at spring-tides, im- bedded in black soil or moss, exposed to view in places where the sand, by the action of the sea, has been washed away. This is par* ticularly the case, on no limited scale, near my residence. From this circumstance it may be inferred, that the land must have largely extended its bounds beyond its present limits. This is still less doubtful from the f^ict, that several miles from the shore, moss is taken up on the flukes of anchors, where, covered by the sea, it could never have grown. But we must repress speculate ing and return to statistics. An opinion had long prevailed that the sea-air prevents the growth of trees. This, in fact, is not the cause, but the want of shelter. Were the experinient fairly tried, there is not the shadow of a doubt that trees would grow in shel- tered situations, and from these the plantations might be extended. This was put to the test some years ago by a gentleman, who was then factor of North Uist. He planted a corner of a field in a well sheltered situation with trees, which have grown and continued to thrive beyond expectation ; and the black thorn hedge has been planted by another, which is flourishing. Neither of these is at a distance from the sea. II. — Civil History. Amongst the remarkable characters connected, but not exclu- sively, with this parish, we may notice a class of persons who have passed away for ever, with the age and habits which encouraged and fostered them. In the last generation, every farm and hamlet possessed its oral recorder of tale and song. The pastoral habits of the inhabitants led them to seek recreation in listening to, 4ind in rehearsing the tales of other times ; and the senackie and the bard were held in high esteem. As — to use the language of commerce — demand produces supply, so a number of bards arose, possessing various grades of genius and excellence. Amongst tlie!>e was John MacCodrum, who lived in the last generation — a man in low circumstances, born and brought up in this parish, and wini scarcely ever went beyond its bounds — who possessed NORTH UI8T. 169 a poetical genius of the highest order ; and composed in the Gae« lie language, the only one he understood, poems and songs on va- rious subjects ; some solemnly sublime, some pleasantly humo- rous, some bitterly sarcastic* Such is the rapid change that has taken place in the habits of the people, that productions such as his, which in former ages would have been repeated with delight, and handed down through numberless successive generations, are already, since they are not in print, greatly forgotten, and in a few years more will be entirely lost Macpherson seized on the last moments it was possible to pre- serve the sublime and majestic Ossian from passing to forgetfulness. LfOrd Macdonald, the representative of the great Macdonald of the Isles, is sole proprietor of this parish. His ancestors posses- sed it almost from time immemorial, at least for centuries back ; indeed, sinc^ the time of the great Somerled, Rex Insularum^ the founder of the clan. And in ages gone by, some of the chiefs, and always several near branches of the family, lived in it. Parochial Reffisters.-^Ho parochial registers were kept till late- ly in this parish ; and even now, the entries from the more remote districts of it are irregular. Antiquities.-'^In some of the burying-grounds, particularly in the island of Husker, (anciently named lollen na Moinoch^ or /«- land of the Monhs^) are foimd several crosses rudely cut on stone. There are also two stones or obelisks of large size ; the one at Balmartin, near the centre of the parish, named Caracrom, re- garding the erection of which tradition is totally silent. The other is opposite the island of Kirkebost. It is called clack whore a chi, and is said by universal tradition to have been erect- ed to commemorate a battle of the same name ; but when or by whom fought, I have not been able to ascertain. At Carinish, the south-west point of the parish, there is a ruin of large dimen-* sions, called Teampul na Trianaide^ or Trinity Temple, which, by the tradition of the inhabitants, is said to have been built by the daughter of Lorn, when she was separated from the Lord of the Isles. I have in my possession a document, which is a copy of what is said to have been the original charter of dedication of some lands in Uist to the Trinity and blessed Virgin Mary Church at Carinish, by Godfrey Macdonald, Lord of Uist, in the year 1389. This, should it be genuine, does not contradict the tradition. Near the tops of two hills in this parish are immense beaps of stones ; some of them of large size. They are called barps, a JNVERNISS. M 170 INVKllNESS-SHIRE. i word evidently not of Celtic origin. It may probably ha?e been derived from barrow, a heap or mound. Be this as it may, the uses for which these immense piles were, with Herculean labour, put together, are now unfortunately unknown ; and, in the absence of all authentic record and tradition, conjecture, at best uncertain, is all that can be substituted. Some, from tneir formation, suppose them to have been Druidical circles or Temples. Some, that they were towers forming places of defence and protection at a very early period, against the incursions of enemies, while they likewise served the purpose of beacons to give warning to the inhabitants of the approach of danger. This conjec- ture is in some degree supported by the circumstance, that above Roudh in Harris, and also in Barra, there are similar constructions, but of less magnitude, and all so uninterruptedly in a line, that a beacon-fire lighted in any of them would be seen by all. It is, however, more probable that they were the tumuli of eminent war- riors. Modem Buildings. — Other remarkable buildings in this parish are the Danish forts or castles. They are generally built of a circular form, in the middle of fresh water lakes of no great depth, and accessible from the shore by causeways, some now, and for- merly most probably all, above the level of the water. Many of them have outer protecting walls. These duns, as they are called, are about twenty in number. They were occupied as places of residence by the more powerful families, after the Danes ceased to infest these parts. One of them was built in Lochscolpeg, a distance of four mile^ from the parish church. Donald Herroch, (so called from his having been born in Harris,) a descendant of one of the Lords of the Isles, and himself a very powerful individual, occupied this dun as his place of residence.* * The tradition of his tragical end is confirmed by a great variety of cireumitaD- ces. Some of his relatives, jealous of his influence and power, and detirout to ttiM upon both, along with his property, fell upon the following expedient to oompua hit destruction : —They employed an accomplice of the name or Paul, a low mean wr«Ccli| to put their intention into execution. On an occasion when many of hU rdaikmi and pretended friends went to visit him, — after enjoying for some daya bis hospitali- ty, they proposed various athletic exercises for pastime. Amongst these, it was ng^ gested to try who should leap highest, they knowing that Donald Herroch^ ali a mth and agility would carry the palm of victory. Paul had previously prepared a akraiif leathern thong, with a running loop or noose, right over the place where the leap was to be taken, and at such a height that it might easily be reacbccL He was himaair in the next apartment, — which was divided by a wooden partition from that in whiA the company were collected, — holding the end of the thong. Another aecompliiMP was employed to give the signal when Donald Herroch leaped ; and Paul, at tha ifwmtwt Donald's head was within the loop, drew the thong with savage determinatioii, and NORTH UI8T. 171 Last summer some silver coins were found in a sand hillock, in the island of Boreray. They are various coins of James VI. and are in an excellent state of preservation. The greater number of the tacksmen occupy comfortable and commodious slated houses; and many of the farm-offices are of the same description. Besides these, the church, three mills, and three public houses are slated. The cottages occupied by the small tenants are, in general, annually .thatched, at a great sacrifice of time and labour. III. — Population. The population in 1801 was 3010 1811 8863 1821 4971 1831 4603 The diminution has been caused by upwards of 600 souls hav- ing emigrated in the year 1828 to British America ; and, though a few have since followed their friends across the Atlantic, the population is still excessive. It is now considerably greater than it was in 1831. The census of that year we shall keep in view, in the following statements. The average of the various ages of the population is as follows : Males under 15 years of age, 911— females, 988 => 1899 betwixt 15 and 30, 588 do. 625 » 1213 30 and 50, 379 do. 453 = 832 50 and 70, 236 do. 254 » 490 above 70, - . 83 do. 86 = 169 2197 2406 » 4603 strangled him. From this circumstance he was called Paul na ilclltdh^ or Paul of the Thong. His life was short. Revenge, which, in barbarous ages, takes a summary mode of inflicting punishment, soon overtook him. In a few weeks thereafter, while Paul was building a stack of corn, from the top of it he observed, at some distance, a person of large stature rapidly moving towards the place. He hastily asked those about him from what airt tlie wind had blown thetlay before. On being informed it was from the cast, and a leading wind from Skyc, he exclaimed, the person at a distance must be Angus, commonly called Atmas Fionn or Fair, son of Donald Hcr- roch, who possessed some part of Troternish in Skyc, and that it was time for him to look to his own safety. At full speed, he fled to the church sanctuary at Kilmuir, a distance of about three miles. Angus saw him at a distance, and, following him with ■till greater speed, just as he was crossing a small rivulet that bounded the sanc- tuary on the south side, bent his unerring bow, and the arrow pierced Paul in the heel. He fell ; his legs in the water and the rest of his body on the land within the aanctuary, which to this day is called Shead PhoU, or PauPt Field, lliis field forms part of Uie glebe of this parish. It is immediately adjoining the church ; and the scene is pointed out about 100 yards from it, A blind man, a Chomhali of Donald Herroch, is said to have taken a brutal and indescribable revenge on Paul, which put an end to his lingering life. The memory of Paul na Hettidh is still held in universal detestation, while the de- icendants of Donald Herroch have since bis time possessed and still possess large fiinns in North Uist. Lochscolpeg, in which is, or rather was the dun, where Do- nald Herroch was so barbarously sacrificed to the evil passion of avarice, wi^ some years ago drained by a gentleman living in its immediate neighbourhood; and on the side of the dun he has erected a small octagonal b^Wd'ing. 1/2 INVERNESS-SIIIRE. Of those above ninety, there are 2 ; and last month one man died aged 1 02 years. It has been already stated, that Lord Macdonald is sole proprie- tor of the parish. He does not reside in it. The number of fa^ milies in the parish is 833. Inhabited houses are 797 ; uninha- bited and now building, 17. Number of fatuous persons, 9; dumb, 2; deaf, 2; deaf and dumb, 1. There are 3 blind, two of whom support themselves by their own industry. Language^ 8fc. — The language spoken is the Gaelic, which the people speak with uncommon fluency and elegance. One- fifth of the whole population above the age of twelve years understand and speak English. Such of them as arc in the habit of going to the south of Scotland for trading or for working, are fond of inter- larding some English or Scotch phrases with their own beauti- tiful and expressive language. This bad taste is confined to so limited a number, that it has but slightly affected the general cha^ racter of their native tongue. There are only five individuals in the parish who do not understand the Gaelic, and some of these have made considerable progress in its attainment It was for- merly noticed, that taste for song is, among the lower order, fast on the decline; so also is that for music, of which they were remark- ably fond. At funeral processions, which had been, and still are conducted with remarkable regularity, the pipes, in strains of pathos and melody, followed the bier, playing slow, plaintive dirges, com- posed for and used only on such occasions. On arriving near the church-yard, the music ceased, and the procession formed a line on each side, between which the corpse was carried to its nar- row abode. But the custom of accompanying burials with musicy is now almost universally abandoned ; and there are some indivi- duals — doubtless with good intentions — whose zeal has not been wanting to put down the practice. The people are remarkably cleanly in their habits. Though far from woods, their houses in general are more capacious, and in every respect of a better description than the habitations of many of the same class in more favoured situations. Many of these have their chimneys and their glass windows, and their beds boxed with timber at the back, on the top, and at both ends; and all sweep and sand their earthen floors daily. They dress, too, in a style superior to that of most of the islanders ; and are even fastidious in this respect, and will not appear in public places without being well dressed. The men dress in kelt or cloth of NORTH UIST. 173 native manufacture ; and the women are seen to most advantage in- beautiful strips and tartans of their own manufacture. Of late years, however, the cottons and calicoes of Glasgow, in se- veral instances, have superseded the native female dress ; and the straw bonnets have pretty extensively overcome the neat head-dress, the hair kept together by a single comb, and preserved from con- fusion by a slight kerchief. Neither of these innovations are im- provements, but the reverse. The ordinary food is potatoes and barley-bread, which are almost exclusively used among the poorer class. The small tenants of a better class use, in addition, some milk in summer, and mutton and beef in winter. The gentlemen farmers live genteely, comfortably, and economi- cally. The peasantry enjoy a considerable share of happiness. Their chief earthly anxiety is to pay their rents, retain their small possessions, and keep their families about them. The gentlemen are well educated, and add to their other comforts many of the men* tal enjoyments which the overflovnng press of the age so extensively furnishes. The common people are sober, industrious, sagacious, and acute, full of curiosity and exceedingly inquisitive. They are insinuating and even artful in their address, obliging and peace- . able in their dispositions. Those of them in more comfortable cir- cumstances are honest ; but amongst the poorer and more ignorant, some are addicted to petty theft. It is amongst the last class alone, that this vice and other immoralities more frequently are found. The greater part of the better sort are most regular in their at- ' tendance on religious worship and ordinances, and correct in their moral habits. In this last respect, the gentlemen farmers set a praiseworthy example, which undoubtedly has a happy influence. ^ Smuggling has for years been completely abolished, not so much by the exertions of the excise, as by the wise and determined mea- sures adopted by the proprietor and his managers for the purpose. IV. — Industry. The number of families employed in agriculture, 602 ; in trade, manufactures, &c 69 ; retail trade and handicraft, 103; wholesale capitalists, professional persons, &c. 18; other males, 39; male servants upwards of twenty years of age, 92; male servants under twenty, 29 ; female serv^ts, 111. Agriculture. — The number of acres (Scotch measure) in the parish which are cultivated or otxtu fcionally in tillage, . . • 1I»200 The number of acres constantly in pasture, . • 42,350 In sand drift, • • . 1,668 174 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Properly speaking, there is no undivided common, as the whole parish is the property of one individual. Such parts of the moor as have hitherto Been grazed or held in common by the tenants of several farms, are now about to be divided, and its own share given respectively to each farm. Wages. — The rate of labour for farm-servants for the year is from L.5 to L. 9 Sterling, with victuals ; and grieves or overseers receive from L.10 to L.15, with victuals. Country artisans from 2s. to -Ss. 6d. per day, without victuals. Masons and carpenters, about 3s. per day, without victuals. Husbandry. — The number of black-cattle kept by the small te- nants is by far too great, and a less number well kept would un- doubtedly be more profitable. This remark applies with greater force to the number of horses kept. The evil arises partly from the difficulty of breaking off old habits ; but principally from the small subdivisions into which the allotments are reduced, the cause of which will be afterwards specified. Measures are now being tiiken by the proprietor to remedy the evil, in respect to both. On the character of the husbandry pursued much might be said> if the limits permitted. The occupiers of land may be divided into two classes, 1. The gentlemen farmers or tacksmen, each of whom possesses one or more farms ; and 2. The small tenants, who for- merly occupied their farms conjunctly, the arable land possessed in run-rig, or subject to annual division amongst themselves. In the year 1 81 4, a better system was adopted. The arable lands were measured and lotted ; and each small tenant put in possession of his own croft or share, while the grazing was left still in com- mon. This naturally gave a powerful impetus to improvement. The industrious was no longer clogged by the carelessness or sloth of his neighbour, nor by the consideration that the labour of the former would benefit the latter. On the contrary, the slothfiil was spurred on by the example and never-failing reward of the industrious. Accordingly, larger and better crops have been raised since. The manure principally used is the sea-ware (Alga marina Jf cast in considerable quantities on many parts of the western shores ; and where that is not the case, a certain quan- tity of the same weed cut from the rocks. I formerly took no* tice that the small belt subjected to cropping on the west coast is rendered productive by the sand that has been deposited on it. In fact, the most productive part is nothing more than moss mixed with and decomposed by the limy particles of the NORTH UIST. 175 sand. The process nature thus pointed out was reonarked by some individuals of sagacity and observation, who persuaded a few to follow this guide. In consequence, along some of the shores where the moss was washed by the sea, a certain quantity of sand was led to the moss in the immediate neighbourhood, which pro- duced crops in most instances sufficient to remunerate the trou- ble and expense ; and which renders what was before of small value, of permanent benefit as pastufe ground. This improvement, by due encouragement, might be carried on to an immense extent by what we call draining and sanding moss. It is exceedingly facilitated by the cross roads, which almost through every farm have of late years been made. Some of the tacksmen carry on a system of husbandry, in every department of farming and grazing, which cannot sufier by a com- parison with the best managed farms in the south of Scotland, though labouring under many local and other disadvantages. Recovering lands from the sea by embankments has been carried on by various spirited individuals to a considerable extent, to the amount of about eighty-six Scotch acres ; and lakes have been drained, principally by the same persons, to about the same quantity. These improvements might be carried on extensively and advantageously in many parts of this parish. Another improvement, which has been tried in other parts as well as in this quarter, is what is generally termed the planting of stones in the sea for the growth of sea-ware. A great and important improvement also has been for some years extensively carried on, in the suppression of the sand-drift ; an evil formerly of great magnitude in these parts. The suppression of sand-drift is effectually secured, by sloping the sand-banks, and covering them with sward from the neighbourhood ; they thus be- come firm, and produce grasses of the same kind as in the situ- ations whence they were taken. Bent is also employed successfully for the same purpose. Very near the sea shore, and on extensive sand- flats, the planting of bent is the best method hitherto discover- ed for the suppression of sand- drift. Leases. — The tacksmen only have leases in this parish. Their duration varies from sev^n to fourteen years ; a period greatly too short to remunerate for the necessary outlay in making permanent and substantial improvements. Nevertheless, a number of the tacks- men on this property, have made most substantial and permanent im- provements, under the conviction, and in the unbounded confidence justly reposed in the justice and generosity in the Noble family of 176 INVERNESS-SHIRE. whom they hold, that they would be remunerated by long posses- sion, or by a pecuniary consideration. The small tenants have no leases at all. But amongst them, there are few instances in which they are removed from their possessions without a just cause ; and this unwillingness to remove them has powerfully promoted an ex- cess of population, and the subdivisions of crofts, contrary to the established regulations. To them, various encouragements for making improvements are held out Premiums are annually given by the proprietor to the small or conjoint tenants who shall bring a certain quantity of moss or other land under culture. They are supplied with tools for making cross-roads through or along their farms from the shores to the moss ; and accordingly, there are few parishes, if any, in which roads, the 6rst means to every improve- ment, have been, for a few years back, so extensively carried on. Far removed firom the seats of manufactures and constant employ- ment, a great part of the time of these small tenantry b wast- ed, which might be more profitably applied. Early marriages, which have become habitual for ages back, increase the popula- tion in a ratio almost incredible ; and the croft or lots, originally too small for the first possessor, is necessarily subdivided amongst the married sons and daughters, and become totally unfitto supply them with the comfortable or even the necessary means of subsistence. In these circumstances, some means for their profitable employ- ment must be devised, or emigration encouraged ; otherwise, in years of scarcity, they must fall an intolerable burden on the pro- prietors, and those in better circumstances, or have recourse for relief to a generous public. Here it may be remarked, that the changes which have taken place in the incomes of the proprietor of this parish and other proprietors in the West Highlands, aris- ing from the low prices of kelp, in consequence of the removal of protecting duties from other articles that come in competition with it, — put it entirely out of the power of the proprietor, how generous and how liberal soever he may be, to extend relief when so largely required. The clear proceeds from the kelp alone in this parish,jn 1812, after deducting every expense, exceeded L. 14,000; and for several years thereafter, it came little short of that sum. Now it puts little into the pocket of the proprietor, and in many; instances is only manufactured to enable the crofters to I^ay for their small possessions. In these circumstances, is it not reasonable' to expect that Government, who reduced the income of the proprietor from L. 17,500 to L. 8500, the present rental, by NORTH UIST. 177 the change of law, and abolition of duties, is bound, if not to give a compensation, at least to give grants of lands, and afford facili« ties of locating on them, to an interesting class of people, at once moral, peaceable, loyal, and industrious, necessarily getting year by year less employment? While it is a source of sincere sa- tisfaction to narrate the well directed exertions of the greater num* ber of the large farmers, truth demands that some at least of the disadvantages and discouragements under which they labour should likewise be stated. Formerly, all the kelp ware on their farms was allowed them with their other possessions. For some time back, they have been deprived of this advantage. This, perhaps, from the pre- sent low price of kelp, is no great pecuniary loss. But another evil attends it. The small tenants are sent every summer to the farms possessed by tacksmen, to manufacture the kelp, with a train of horses, which eat up a large proportion of the summer grass. Not only is this in itself a grievous loss, but it renders it impossible to divide and manage the pasture in a systematic and profitable manner. The number of horses might be reduced, and in many instances they might entirely be dispensed with. Measures are now about to be adopted for the removal of this grievance. Fisheries. — The ordinary routine of employment, in which the generality of the people are engaged, precludes them from en- gaging in fisheries. In the winter season, the sea around the island is too boisterous to admit of their carrying on the fisheries, with any degree of regularity or success. During the summer ^eason, the most proper for this employment, much the greater part of the population is occupied in the manufacture of kelp, ia providing fuel, in cutting and securing crops. And, though many might be spared from these occupations, they want the necessary capital and skill to attempt to prosecute the fisheries with any reasonable prospect of success. Thus, though surrounded by the sea and its hidden resources of wealth, we can scarcely be said to have fishing. That large shoals of herrings and other fish annu- ally visit this coast, and ling and cod may be found in the proper season in abundance around it, which might be turned to profit- able account, can hardly admit of a doubt. Under this impres- sion, a few patriotic individuals attempted to form liberal subscrip- tions, in order fairly to try whether this might not be made avail- able for the benefit of the country ; but the limited number wil- ling to make the experiment, and the smailness of the sum as yet subscribed, render the r^ult doubtful. ,1500 900 2400 5040 400 200 178 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Produce. — The following is an estimate of the average amount of raw produce : 500 small tenants, 4 cows each, or 2000 at an aterage of 15s. per cow I « • • a « Tacksmen have in all about 900 cows, at L. 8 each, ?)000 bolls of grain, at 16s. .... Pototocs, &c, 50,400, at 2s., Sheep, including all kinds, .... xiay, • • • • • * U 10,440 Kelp Manufacture. — The only branch of general manufacture carried on, is that of kelp. At an average, there are 400 femi« lies employed in this, from the beginning of June to the 1st of August. In wet weather, no progress can be made in it ; and dur-^ ing the dry weather they work hard, sometimes fifteen hours. The amount earned by each individual, during that period, is smalL Yet, as all the family work together, the sum becomes considerable, ave- raging about L.4 to each family. This work enables the class of te- nants to exist. With small possessions, without fisheries, with few cattle, and these of little value, if deprived of this resource, they are unable to meet their rents. Nuv'ffation. — There are eleven deckcd-vessels, varying from twenty to sixty tons each. The largest and some of the smaller were built in the parish. With the exception of the Packet, they are all employed in the local and coasting trade. V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market-town in this parish, and the nearest for ge- ral beneficial purposes are those of Greenock and Glasgow, distant by sea about 200 miles. With the latter the principal intercourse is held, for supplying this part of the country with almost all the goods and groceries imported ; while the exports to these places to meet them are so scanty, as to be hardly worth mentioning, with the exception, indeed, of kelp, which is wholly for the benefit of the proprietor. Were a direct communication opened by meaDs of steam, the case would be far otherwise, as I shall show before concluding. At Lochmaddy there was, for many years, a post-ofiice, under the name of Carinish : it is now converted into a sub-office to Dun- vegan. It is difficult to assign any good reason for this. From Lochmaddy a packet of sixty tons burthen sails, when the weather permits, twice a week to Dunvegan, the nearest safe harbour in Skye. Letters and papers are received in this place, in the surpris- ingly short time of four days from Edinburgh. This packet is NORTH UIST. 1 79 supported by an assessment, which bears heavily upon all classes of the inhabitants, together with a small sum allowed by the post- oflSce. The internal communication has been immensely improved, with- in the last twenty years. There are now no less than eighty miles o fgood roads. 0{ these nearly 6fly miles have been made by the statute labour, and a heavy assessment on the occupiers of the land. With the extension of roads, the introduction of carts has kept pace; of which there are, at this moment, in the parish 180. From the rapid increase which has taken place in regard to this excellent improvement, it may be sanguinely anticipated that at no distant period every person able to keep a horse will have his cart also. The rootle^ too, and the clumsy plough de- scribed in the former statistics, have given way to the modem plough. The greater number of the tacksmen use Morton's iron plough ; and every small tenant has a plough of a lighter descrip- tion, quite sufficient for his purposes. Including all, there are nearly as many ploughs as are families in this parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the centre of the parish, about fifteen miles from each extremity. The densest part of the population is within four miles on either side. It was built in the year 1764, when the number of inhabi- tants was comparatively small. It affords accommodation for no more than 400, being about one- fifth of the population within reach of it. There are no seat rents paid. In this parish, there has never been a manse. The minister always occupied a farm-house, with a farm. The glebe is worth about L.40 Sterling. The proprietor pays L. 61, 13s. 4d. of the stipend, with L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The balance of L.88^ 6s. 8d. is paid from the Exchequer, to make up the stipend to L. 150. In the northern section of the parish, there is a Government church, which was finished in 1828. In the south part of the parish or district of Carinish, is placed a missionary minister, supported by the Committee for Managing the Royal Bounty. It is hoped that, at no distant period, this district will likewise form a separate pa- rish, with endowment for church and school. Excluding the Go- vernment church parish from the calculation, the average number of communicants is 490. This number includes the Mission dis- trict Divine service is well attended at all the places of public worship. The population is wholly Presbyterian, with the excep- tion of two Episcopalian families, and two individuals Roman Ca- ISO INVERNESS-SHIUK. tholics. The people have very little money circulating amongst them, and in consequence the contributions for religious purposes are very limited. The collections for charitable objects are of small amount. To make up for this deficiency, the people are remarkably attentive and charitable to the poor; and the pro- prietor allows L. 60, from the multure of the mills, to the most destitute. This private charity is almost the sole resource^ from which the poor and destitute are supported. Education. — There are nine schools of various descriptions in the parish : — One parochial, with a salary of L. 34, 4s. 4^d., and about L. 16 annually of school fees, of which only L.5 is paid in cash ; the rest in produce. Two schools, supported by the General Assembly's Education Committee, of which one is in the Mission district, and the other within the bounds of the Government church. Each of these has a salary of L. 25, and the school fees may amount to L. 5, the greater part of which is paid not in cash, but in produce. One school supported by the Glas- gow Auxiliary Gaelic School Society ; one at Carinish, supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge; two other schools by that Society ; and four by the Gaelic School Society. Besides the above, there are two schools for females ; and pri- vate tutors are kept by some families. The people are most anxious to confer the blessings of instruction on their children. But six additional permanent schools are still required. The only inlets to general knowledge are the libraries attached to the Ge- neral Assembly schools. Fairs. — There are only two fairs held annually in this parish. One about the middle of July, the other the beginning of Sep- tember, — both for the sale of black-cattle and horses. Inns. — The inns in the parish are four. One at the packet station at Lochmaddy, another at Carinish, the opposite extre- mity of the island, and the other two at proper intermediate dis- tances along the road. Fuel, — The fuel universally used is peats, which in quality are far superior to any in the Highlands. Miscellaneous Observations. We add a few observations on what appears best calculated at present, to promote the industry, and advance the temporal com- fort of the inhabitants. First, it is necessary to find some proper outlet for the excess of the population by emigration, and thus to increase the quantity of NORTH UIST. 181 land possessed by each family. At present, it is notorious, that there are no less than 390 families not paying rents, but living chiefly on the produce of small spots of potato ground given them by some of their neighbours and relatives. Subdivisions of this kind, from the purest motives of humanity, will and must take place. To force the people away, has been entirely repug- nant to the humane feelings of the Noble proprietor and his ma- nagers. A few years ago, when it was necessary to remove some of the inhabitants from a place where they could hardly earn a scanty subsistence. Lord Macdonald very generously afforded them assistance to emigrate to British America* Steam navigation, judiciously arranged and properly conducted, would in some degree supply the wan^ of local manufactures, by affording facilities of export, and of communication with the south. No regular steam-boats are employed to ply to this quarter : and the failure of the attempts that have been made to establish them has arisen from the circumstance, that the boats were not well fit- ted for the kind of trade proper to the district. They should have been adapted to convey cattle, &c instead of being splendidly fit- ted up for passengers. In conjunction with the projected plan of sending cattle and other produce from the West Highlands to the Liverpool and Glasgow markets, were a steam-boat of proper construction for the conveyance of cattle established, to ply during the season alter- nately, along the west side of Skye, with the Long Island coast, and the east side of Skye with the opposite part of the main- land, — no doubt can exist that the speculation would succeed, and would prove extensively beneficial to these remote quarters. The great variety of other raw produce that might be exported, and the goods of various kinds required for the overgrown popu- lation, would, in a short time, create a trade which must inevi« tably spur the industry, and promote the comfort of all classes of the inhabitants. 1837. PARISH OF SOUTH UIST. PRESBYTKRY OF UIST, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. RODERICK MACLEAN, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History, Boundaries, Extent, Sfc — South Uist is bounded on tbe north by a sound which separates it from North Uist, 2 miles broad, and which is dry at low water ; on the south, by the sound which se- parates it from the islands and parish of Barra, and which, in the narrowest part, is about 6 miles across ; on the west, by the At- lantic Ocean ; and on the east, by the Minch, which divides it from the island of Skye, and which is about 20 miles where narrowest, and 26 where broadest. Its length, from its boun- dary with North Uist to its southern extremity, including the island of Erisca, opposite to Barra, is 38 miles. Its breadth va- ries between 6 and 8 miles. Its superficies consists of about 137 square miles. This parish consists of three principal islands : but there are others of smaller dimensions, the largest of which is Wia, on the south-east side of Benbecula. The principal islands are, 1. Benbe- cula, on the north, 8 miles long and 8 miles broad, of a round form, and separated from South Uist, the largest island, by a small chan- nel half a mile broad in the narrowest part, dry at low water, but which at high water in springtides has a depth of about 2 fathoms in the deepest parts. 2. South Uist proper, 27 miles long, and at an average 7 miles broad. 3. Erisca, 3 miles long, and 1^ mile broad, separated from the largest island by a channel 2 miles broad. Topographical Appearances. — All the west side of the parish (Erisca excepted) is low, flat, and sandy ; and the east side moun- tainous, hilly, and mossy. The highest mountain in South Uistb named Heacle, Heacam-hall, or Hecla, supposed to be so named by the Danes, from Mount Hecia in Iceland, perhaps from a similarity in their figure or appearance. It is about 2500 feet above the level of the sea, and lies between Loch Skipport on the north, and Loch SOUTH UIST. 183 Eynort on the south, extending a length of about 8 miles. It is formed of three distinct heights, that in the middle being the lowest ; — the whole, when arrangements may be made for such purpose, together with the lands on the west side, adjoining there- to, being well adapted for an extensive sheep-walk. The whole mountain-range is still a common for pasturing the sheep of the small tenants in the neighbouring farms, who, but for this induU gence on the part of the prQprietor, would, in their present state of poverty and destitution, be wretchedly ill provided with cloth- ing. The range of hills north of Loch Skipport and south of Loch Eynort, varying in height between 1200 and 1300 feet, con- tain good pasture for black-cattle, horses, and sheep, and are at- tached to the different farms on the west side. The moss, ex- tending from the bottom of these mountains and hills to the arable part of the parish, is generally deep, and furnishes excellent peats for fuel. Once the surface is dry, and that the peats are stacked, they resist the rain ; and though the stacks are as broad above as below, and not thatched or covered with divot, as in Skye and the mainland, the peats keep dry, and make excellent fuel. The only cave in this parish worth mentioning, is that at Corodale, on the east side, between Loch Skipport and Loch Eynort, close by the sea, at the foot of a lofty mountain range. It is called the Prince's Cave, from the circumstance of Prince Charles Edward having, for some days, found shelter in it in summer 1746, from the pursuit of his enemies. Marshal Mac- donald, whose father followed the Pretender to France in that year from this parish, visited it in 1 826, and carried away some of the stones. The shore on the west side, as already mentioned, is sandy, with the exception of certain small rocky promontories, viz. Oron- say, near the sound of Barra ; Ardmile, about eight miles north of Oronsay ; Ardmichael, (where there is a burying place,) four miles north of Ardmile; and Ardivachar, eight miles north of the last men- tioned headland. The only headland on the east side is the Point of Ushinish, which projects about 1^ mile into the Minch. The east shore is all rocky ; and in most places where the rocks are not high or perpendicular, grow large quantities of sea-weed, used for kelp and manure ; but especially on the shores of the three lochs, viz. Loch Boisdale, Loch Eynort, and Loch Skipport, which are excellent harbours. Climate. — In this parish the air is generally mild and pure. In 184 INVERNESS-SHIRE. winter, when there are accounts of very heavy falls of snow through- out the kingdom, snow very seldom falls in great quantity, or con- tinues long on the ground ; mdeed, for the last twelve years, there has been very little snow or frost. The prevailing winds are south and south-west, which are almost always accompanied with rain. Polar lights have been observed more frequently, and under more extraordinary appearances during the last two years, than during the memory of the oldest persons. They sometimes ap- peared of a deep-red colour, extending farther south than they wero before observed by any person living, which gave occasion to the ignorant to say, that they prognosticate war and bloodshed. These appearances were always followed by rainy, windy, and coarse weather. It is matter of wonder to the people here, that the luminous meteor, called Will o' the Wisp, was never seen in this parish previous to the year 1812. Since then, it is seen very frequently every year. This circumstance has given rise to some supersti- tious ideas among the lower class. It is said amongst them, that a woman in Benbecula went at night to the sand-banks, to dig for some rue {Galium verumj) used for dyeing a red co- lour, against her husband's will ; that when she left her house, she said with an oath, she would bring some of it home, although she knew there was a regulation by the factor and magistrates prohibiting people to use it or dig for it, by reason that the sand-banks, upon being excavated, would be blown away with the wind. The woman never returned home, nor was her body found. It was shortly thereafter that the meteor was first seen ; and it is said that it is the ghost of the unfortunate and profane woman that appears in this shape. It is observed that the climate of this parish, though very rainy, is generally milder in winter, than that of the east and midland parts of Scotland ; although, in summer, it is not generally so warm and genial. Considering the very great number of lakes with which the parish abounds, and the inhabited parts being so flat and low, it is, on a superficial view, surprising how healthy the country is. But this may be accounted for from the prevalence of high winds, and the contiguity of the great Atlantic Ocean, which render the air more pure and salubrious than in inland parts of the kingdoDL The most prevalent distempers are, cholic, in- flammation, rheumatism, asthma, cough, dyspepsia, and nervous fevers. Poor living and weak food very generally bring on sto- SOUTH UIST. 185 mach compIaintS) enhaDced no doubt by tbe general and excessive use of tobacco, in every shape, when it can possibly be obtained. Notwithstanding this, there are many instances of longevity, be- tween 80 and 100 years. Hydrography. — There are not many good springs of water in this parish* The water is generally soft, and partakes of the quali- ty of the lakes by which the springs are surrounded. The water in the hilly parts is of a brown colour, being tinged by the moss through which it flows, but is found wholesome. It is pro- per to observe here, that a chain of lakes runs almost all the length of the parish. The largest, named Loch Bee, is about three miles in length, and a mile in breadth, being about two fa- thoms deep in the deepest parts. The sea enters this lake in spring-tides, so that it not only abounds in fine trout, but also in flounder and mullet, a most delicious fish, called in Gaelic, Jasg drimionrif which is not found in any other part of the parish. It is a sucking fish, with large scales, the stomach of which is like the gizzard of a common hen. The lake next in size to Loch Bee is named Loch Druidibeg, situated a little to the north of Heackle. It is very little inferior to the other in size, and furnishes a copi- ous stream of water to the principal mill in the parish. On this lake there are several small islets, on which there is plenty of gull, goose, and duck eggs found in the months of May and June, every year. These islets were, some years ago, much frequented by deer ; but there is none now to be seen in the whole parish but one bind, the rest having disappeared, and found their way to North Uist Besides these two lakes, there is an immense num- ber of smaller lakes on the west side, and in tbe moor of the three islands of which the parish is composed, especially the largest. There are only two streams in which salmon find their way from the lakes to the sea, and vice versa ; but the fishing is inconsidera- ble. The lakes in the moor abound in black trout of a watery, insipid taste ; but in most of the lakes on the west side, surround- ed by arable land, and having a sandy or muddy bottom, the trout are of a delicious flavour, weighing between one and three pounds. Geology and Mineralogy.'^The rocks are of the primitive class. There are no ores, no marble, limestone, sandstone, or slate, (with the exception of some grey coarse slate in a small island on the east side called Staslay) ; but rocks consisting of gneiss, coarse granite, and hornblende rock. Some mica-slate INVERNESS. N 186 INVEKNESS-SHIRE. is seen in a few places. No fossils or petrifeictioDs. The soil between the west shore and the lakes is all sandy for almost the whole length of the parish, varying in breadth between half a mile and a mile. The soil, in those parts lying between the lakes, and the moorland and hills, is partly black loam, and part- ly moss. There is no clayey soil in the parish. The most fruit- fill soil, when well manured, is what is called mixed soil, consist- ing of black soil and sand. The soil is thin, resting o?er gravel or rock ; but produces good crops in favourable seasons. Zoology. — There are many kinds of birds which migrate to this country, and remain in it during the winter and spring, from Oc- tober till April, such as swans, barnacle geese, several species of ducks, teals, &c. Besides these migrating birds, there is a vast number of wild geese, common wild ducks, a considerable number of eider duck along the western shore, cormorants, curlews, herons, sea-larks, sea-gulls of different species ; but of aqua- tic birds, which never land, but may be seen in the neighbour- hood of the shore, the writer of this account is not possessed of sufficient information to supply a correct account Besides these aquatic birds, there is abundance of pigeons, grey and green plover, larks, thrushes, linnets, and other birds common to the adjoining parishes. Game consists of grouse, woodcock, and snipe. The carnivorous birds are, eagles, hawks, falcons, kites, ravens, hooded-crows. As to quadrupeds ; — besides black-cattle, horses^ sheep, swine, and goats, there are rabbits, otters, rats, and mice. There are no snakes nor serpents of any kind ; no lizards, toads, nor frogs. There is no species of fish in the lakes and streams, but those already described, including salmour Salmon comes up the two streams already mentioned, to spawn, from the middle of Sep- tember to the beginning of November, and they return to the sea in December and January ; but the months of July and August, and beginning of September, are the time when the scanty fishing is most successful. The coast, for several years past, (at least the lochs on the east side of the parish) has not been much frequented by herring. Vast shoals of this fish are, every year, seen on the west coast of the parish ; but from the want of capital, skill, and encourage- ment, the people are not enabled to take the benefit of them. Besides, there is a very great disadvantage arising from the want of harbours on the west side, and the impossibility of finding a proper landing-place when there is a strong breeze. Though SOUTH UIST. 187 the sea on the east and west side of this parish abounds with cod, ling, and other kinds of fish, the inhabitants, from the causes above stated, cannot avail themselves of this branch of industry ; and no fishing to any extent is carried on in the pa- rish, except in the southern extremity, by a few of the Boisdale tenants, who, at an average, send about 28 tons of cod and ling annually to market. Since the Government bounty has been with- drawn, the fishing has considerably decreased. But such is the wretchedness of the labouring poor generally in some places, that this bounty, instead of being serviceable to the poor fishermen, went to the pockets of those persons who call themselves fish- curers ; and even now, the poor fishermen are compelled to sell the fish to their landlord, or the factor on the Boisdale estate, at a diminished price. About thirty years ago, there was a considerable fishing carried on in dog-fish and sun-fish or basking-shark. But since the bounty on the oil of these fishes has been withdrawn, this branch of in- dustry has been altogether discontinued. The most important and useful shell-fish on the shores of this pa- rish, is the cockle. It is found in great abundance in the sands between Benbecula and North Uist, and between South Uist and Benbecu- la. Great crowds of people, with horses and baskets or creels, are seen every summer, but especially in years of scarcity, picking up this shell-fish, as a most useful article of food, upon which, with a little milk, and sometimes without that addition, the poor people, in years of scarcity, principally subsist for two months. The shells, which make excellent lime for building, and particularly for plaster- ing, are sold at 4d. to 6d. per barrel. Besides cockles, there is plenty of razor or spout-fish, limpets, mussels, welks or periwinkles, lob- sters, and crabs. Oysters are only found on the shore of Loch Skip- port, and, being rock oysters chiefly, they are large and delicious. Botany. — It may be observed, that a botanist would find very little to attract his attention in this parish, and nothing which is not also found in the other Hebridean islands. The grass on the west side of the hills is of fine quality, and well calculated to yield milk and to &tten cattle in summer ; but from its fineness, melts away in winter with rain and frost Owing to the number of small horses necessarily kept by the tenantry for carrying their peats, kelp, and sea-ware for tillage, &c. their cows are not so W6ll pas^ tured as to be a profitable concern to the owners. 188 INVERNESS-SHIRE. II. — Civil History. T^nd'Owners. — The only land-owners are Ranald G. Macdo- nald, Esq. of Clanranald ; Hugh Macdonald, Esq. of Boisdale ; and Ranald Macdonald, Esq. of Bornish. Parochial Registers. — There was not a parochial register kept of the births and marriages among the Protestant population, till within the last two years. Two-thirds of the population are Ro- man Catholics ; and, without an act of Parliament, it is impossible to keep a regular register of the whole population in a parish so circumstanced. Antiquities. — In the island of Benbecula, there was a nunnery on the farm now called Nuntown. The building was taken down, and the stones used in the building of Clanranald's mansion and office-houses. About two miles to the north of the site of the nunnery, on a hxm called Bailivanich, or the &nn of the monks, still stand the remains of the monastery on a small islet in a lake. There are also at Benbecula, on the west side, the remains of an old castle named Caistal Bhuirbhj or the Castle of Borve, a very an- cient building, the residence of the lairds of Benbecula in ancient times. There is no tradition in regard to the time or person by whom it was built. In Loch Druidibeg, one of the lakes already mentioned, is an islet or rock, on which appear the remains of a building, evidently erected in ancient times as a place of refuge from barbarous incursions. There is also on a small islet in-a lake near Hoghmore, where the parish church is to be built, a small square building almost entire, named Caistal Eilen bheg riim^ signifying the castle in the island of small dimensions^ in which the captain of Clanranald resided with his family of old, when he dreaded inva- sion from his neighbouring foes. There was on a rock of consider- able elevation, in a small island in the southern extremity of the parish, near Eriscay, and opposite to Barra, a very ancient build* ing, named Caistal a Bhrebider^ or the Weaver's Castle, a part of which still stands, and which, as it was built on a rock of consider- able elevation, is still a conspicuous object at the distance of a few miles. A part of the wall lately fell. A better place for de- fence could scarcely have been selected. Modem Buildings. — The modern buildings are, two churches or chapels in the missionary districts of Benbecula and Boisdale : -^three chapels built by, and at the expense of, the Roman Catho- lic population ; also, — it may be stated in the account of a paridi like this, — three farm-houses, erected within the last five year^ SOUTH UIST. 189 all substaotially built of stone and lime, and slated. There are four mills in the parish built of the same materials, and supplied with good machinery and copious waterfalls. IIL — Population, From the reports of old people in the parish, it is believed that the population must have more than doubled during the last cen- tury, notwithstanding the frequent emigrations which have taken place to North America since the year 1772. The increase has been owing to early and improvident marriages, the healthiness of the climate, and the facility of parents in giving to their sons a por- tion of their lands, small enough for their own subsistence. There are no towns, villages, or hamlets in the parish. Mr Macdonald of Bomish is the only resident heritor. Four- fifths of the lands belong to Clanranald, whose rental is about L.4d00 ; Boisdale's, L.900 ; and Bornish's about L.200. There are 17 bachelors, and 36 widowers, upwards of fifty years of age ; and 98 unmarried women above forty-five. Average num- ber of children in each family, 5. There are 17 persons fatuous, 6 blind, 4 deaf and dumb, and 2 insane in the parish. Character and Habits of the Peopk. — The language used by the inhabitants is Gaelic, which is spoken with considerable purity, and has not lost ground within the last forty years. The people, in general, are not cleanly in their habits. Their ordinary dress is the sailor's jacket and trowsers of home-made woollen stuff, called c&>, or kelt They use the hat and bonnet indiscriminately. The ordinary food of the peasantry is barley-bread, potatoes, milk, oat- gruel or brochan, and occasionally fish, and shell-fish in summer. In good seasons, they have abundance of bread and potatoes ; but there are too many cottars and poor people who have no employ- ment, and can find none, and are consequently a burden on the farmers, who not only supply them with patches of land for pota- toes, but also support them but of their stock of provisions, when they see them in a state of destitution. The people, both Protest- ants and Catholics, are really very kind to the poor, which is a fortunate circumstance, as there are no parochial funds for reliev- ing their wants. The inhabitants, in general, are a moral, well-be- haved set of people ; but it must be confessed, that petty thefts are carried on to too great an extent among a certain class of them, owing to the extreme poverty of many, the^antof the wholesome 190 INVEKNESS-SHIRE. terror of a jail, and the great distance of the county town. Smug- gling has been entirely put down by the proprietors and their factors. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres on Clanranald's es- tate is 67,908, of which about 1 6,250 are arable. Boisdale's proper- ty consists of about 1 1,000 imperial acres, of which about 2500 are arable, and the rest all moorland, — a considerable part of which might be brought to a state of cultivation. Bomish's property con- tains about 1600 acres, of which about 260 acres are arable. In all there are 80,508 acres, of which 19,010 acres are arable, and the rest consists of mountain, hill, and moorland. In such an ex- tensive parish, it is impossible to state with accuracy what quan- tity of the waste land might be cultivated. For years past, the tenantry, particularly in Benbecula, and in the northern part of South Uist, have been bringing considerable portions of moss lands into cultivation. Roads have been made on some of the farms, from the west, or inhabited part, through the moss; by which roads the tenants carry manure to the moss, and bring home peats in return. There is, I believe, very little undivided common in the parish. A dispute exists between Clanranald and Bomish as to a servi- tude claimed by the latter over a considerable tract of bill ground belonging to the former. Great attention has, for some years back, been paid to the im- provement of black-cattle. There are in the parish some stocks inferior to none in the West Highlands. Some Cheviot and black- faced sheep have of late been introduced ; but the small tenants still continue the old breed of sheep: these are of small size, but the mutton is of uncommonly fine flavour, and the wool, though small in quantity, is very fine. Previous to the year 1818, the tenantry had their tillage and grass in common. This system was attended with ruinous effects ; the people were not so industrious as they have been since ; nor did they preserve their corn and potatoes from being damaged by cattle ; the consequence was, that the proprietors had to supply them with meal every year. The average of meal imported from 1812 to 1818 for the use of Clanranald's tenants, is 1500 bolls. Since then, none was imported till last year; and in ordinary years a good deal was exported. This change was effected by the stimulus which tb9 crofting system had given to the industry of the tenantry, by their crop being better preserved from cattle SOUTH UIST. 191 aod by some improvements in their mode of agriculture. The work formerly done by fi?e men and fi?e horses at the plough, is now performed by one man and two horses. It is not more than twenty years since the old plough with one stilt, named crom-- naU'^adj was entirely discontinued ; and it was only a few years ago that the small plough called ristk, which was used for cut- ting the ground, to enable the other plough to turn the sod with more ease, was disused. Indeed, . it is still used by a few of the tenants in strong sandy ground. Formerly, the tenants had all their potatoes in lazy beds, or narrow rigs, three or four feet broad, in ley strong ground. This practice is still followed. It was only a few years ago, that they began to plough the ground for their potatoes, and to set them in drills. The quality of the potatoes is consequently improved, and the quantity considerably increased. There are no trees in this parish ; but it appears that there was much wood in this country, in ancient times ; for in digging peats, branches of trees with hazel-nuts are found in several places ; and in some places at low water, in great spring-tides, trunks of trees are seen in moss in the sea on the west side, among rocks and sand. This evidently shows that the sea has been, from time im- memorial, encroaching on the land. It needs be no matter of surprise, that such changes should have taken place on the low flat western shore of this parish, the sand being from the edge of the sea drifted on the land, and then over moss, forming high banks, which in the course of time '^were covered with a sward of grass, and which subsequently, from the want of care on the part of the inhabitants, were broken up for folds for their cattle, and cots for their sheep, and then drifted in different directions. How- ever, though late, this sand-drift was in a great measure remedied in several places, within the last twenty years, as far as was practi- cable. In five or six farms, the sand-banks which were repairable, were, at great expense, covered with green sod, taken from the neighbouring ground, and in the course of a year, defied the strongest gales, and which, but for this prevention, would soon have been entirely blown away, and have left a barren desert; whereas, they are now covered with fine grass bent (Jrundo arenarioj) and afford both shelter and food to cattle. Another method has also been tried, on a small scale, to prevent sand- drift. Bent, or sand-grass, has been planted in two farms in the Dutch style, and found to answer the purpose exceedingly well. 192 INVERNESS-SHIRE. This bent is used by the parishioDen in making sacks for carrying their corn to the mill, and for horse graith, &c. There is a large sandy tract near the northern extremity of South Uist, named Madiari mxanach^ consisting of about 600 acres, which, for the last hundred years, has been of no use whatever, now partly brought into cultivation, being contiguous to abundance of sea-ware occa- sionally cast ashore. There were about 160 acres of it under bear or bigg last year, which, notwithstanding the inclemency of the season, produced about 500 bolls* If this ground, tilled last spring, were allowed to remain without crop for a few years, and if the adjoining part of 450 acres were brought into cultivation in succession in the same way, the whole (now a complete waste) would, in the course of a few years, be a delightful piece of ground, yielding abundance of fine grass. So backward were the tenants of the district to commence cropping this waste, under the idea that they should have nothing for their labour, that Clanranald's factor, in order to stimulate them to exertion, was obliged to pro- mise each a certain quantity of grain, if the crop should fail. B.ent. — With regard to the average rent of grazing, it is to be observed, that the lands arc let according to the amount of black- cattle they are calculated to maintain. The average sum for a milk cow with a two year old and stirk, is L. % 15s. The grass rent of the sheep is included in this sum. Wages. — The wages of farm-servants are from Li.4, I2s. to L.8. Price of butter, L.1 ; of cheese, 7s. per stone, Dutch weight. The crofters are tenants at will, and have no leases : but there is scarcely an instance of any of them being dispossessed of their lands, unless when guilty of bad conduct towards their neighbours, or gross immorality. The tacksmen, or principal farmers, have leases of fourteen years' endurance. There are very few enclo- sures in the parish, and farm-office houses are in a very indifferent state in general. There are fifteen slated farm-houses in the pa* rish. The principal improvements, as already stated, 9XB^ road* making, stopping sand drift, and bringing moss lands into cultiva* tion. Much land of excellent quality might be recovered from the water, by draining some of the lakes ; the largest of which> Loch Bee, in the immediate vicinity of the extensive sand waste before described, might, by an outlay of an inconsiderable sum of money, or by the labour of the tenants, now much in arrears* from the low price of cattle, be nearlji all drained, — whereby a SOUTH UIST. 193 large surface of fertile land, now covered with water, might be brought into cultivation, to the great benefit of the proprietor. The obstacles to improvement are, want of capital, want of roads to the moorland, and want of drains and inclosures. The sand, which consists of about three parts of lime and one of silex, is found to answer well as manure, when laid on moss, by which crops of bear and oats are produced ; so that if good roads were made through the different farms, from the shore to the moss, extending at an average for three or four miles, large tracts of moorland, with the aid of sea-ware and sand, might be brought ioto cultivation, particularly as the small tenants are beginning to use carts in husbandry, and as the quantity of sea-weed cast on the west shore is very great. Produce* — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — 7,719 botli of bear, oats, and rye, at L. 1 per boll, - L. 7719 82,760 barrels ofpotetoes, at 2s. per barrel, - . 8276 lOacres turnip, at L. II, - - - - 110 00 29,000 atones meaiclow hay, at 6d. per stone, - - 575 1,000 do. cultivated hay, at ^. - - - - 33 6 1 ,600 cattle, at an average of L. 3, - - • - 4800 400 pigs, at 10s. - - - - . 200 Eggs sent to Glasgow, at 2s. 6d. per 100, - - 625 25 tons ofood and ling fish, at L. 20 per ton, - - 500 l,570tonsofkelp, atL.d, .... 4710 Total valve of yearly raw produce, L. 27,548 6 The quantity of rye raised is but small, and confined to four or five farms. There are only four or five gardens in the parish. There are scarcely any cabbages raised by the small tenants, or any garden vegetable, or roots. The egg trade is carried on by young able-bodied men, who go about through the country with baskets, buying up all the eggs they can get at Sd. per dozen. These are shipped off for Glasgow and Greenock from Loch Boisdale, Loch Eynort, and the Sound of Eriscay, in open boats, of from 1 7 to 20 feet keel ; in return for which, the dealers bring home goods, such as dye-stuffs, tobacco, cotton goods, crockery^ and some other articles of convenience. It was only a few years ago that turnips were introduced. They are only cultivated on two or three farms. They answer uncom* monly well ; and I cannot doubt, that when inclosures become general, they will be extensively cultivated. Artificial grasses, such as rye-grass and clover, are only raised on two ferms, where they are found to thrive well. The want of inclosures is the great 194 INVERNESS-SHIRE. obstacle to this article of husbandry, as well as to turnip. The meadow hay is generally of very fine quality. Live-Stock. — The number of black-cattle in the parish, includ- ing stirks, is 5254 ; of horses, 2145 ; of sheep, 7042. There are not above 100 goats. Manufactures, — Kelp is the only article manufactured in this pa- rish. While the price continued good, the proprietors were en- abled to pay high wages for the manufacture, and the people were thereby enabled to maintain themselves comfortably. But, by the taking off the duty on salt and sulphur, the price of kelp has been so much reduced, that the article is hardly worth the mak- ing. In this way the value of the principal estate in the parish has been reduced from L. 15,000 to less than L.5000 a year. The wages of kelp-makers has been consequently reduced, and, indeed, the manufacture would not be continued at all, but to enable the tenants to pay their rents. The number of persons employed in the manufacture of kelp is 1872, including young persons of both sexes between twelve and sixteen years. It is a healthy employ- ment, and has no bad effect on the morals of the young persons en- gaged in it In dry weather, the work is carried on at an average of eight hours a day. But the persons employed in burning the ware^ and working it when burnt till it becomes liquid, with their irons fixed on long poles, have a. very warm and troublesome task, and are often engaged for sixteen hours together. The quality has been liiuch improved during the last twenty years. The weed is allowed only two years growth before it is cut, instead of three and four years, as formerly, — which is considered by some peo- ple to be prejudicial to the qualify and strength of the kelp. The wages have been lately reduced from L.d, 8s., and L.2, 12s. 6d.» to L.2 per ton ; the latter of which is still considered a fair remu- neration in good seasons, but very inadequate in rainy sununera. The work begins about the middle of June, and is finished when the weather ts propitious, between the beginning and middle. of August Shipping. — There are only four decked-vessels of small burden in the parish. They are chiefly employed* in ferrying cattle to Skye and the mainland, and in carrying kelp to Liverpool and Glasgow. The custom*house of the district is Stomoway. Parochial Association. — There is a local Association in coiinec- tion with the neighbouring parish of North Uist, for improving the breed of black- cattle and horses. SOUTH UIST. 195 V. — Parochial Economy. There is a good road the whole length of the parish, which is kept in repair by statute labour and commutation money. The nearest post-office is at Lochmaddy in North Uist, about sixty-six miles distant from the south extremity of the parish. The county town, Inverness, is distant 192 miles from the parish ; but the principal communication is with Glasgow and Greenock. Two fairs are annually held in the parish, at Ormaclet and Benbecula, in July and September, for the sale of black-cattle and horses. There are three principal harbours, Lochboisdale, Loch Eynort, and Loch Skipport, — to the first two of which there are good roads. Lochboisdale, near the south extremity of the parish, is one of the best, safest, and most capacious harbours in the kingdom, and is the' resort of shipping to and from the Baltic, in tempestuous weather. Loch Eynort, near the middle of the parish, is also a good harbour, but has the disadvantage of being very narrow at the entrance^ where there is a low flat rock in the middle covered at high water : in the inside, there are several excellent places of anchorage. Loch Skipport, about ten miles north of the latter, is as safe and good though not so capacious as Lochboisdale, the entrance to the harbour being roomy, clean, and free of danger. There are three other harbours to the north of Loch Skipport, of inferior note, which are very seldom entered by decked craft, ex- cepting vessels receiving kelp. These are. Loch Charnan, Loch Shelliva, and Loch Uisgava. Ecclesiastical State. — There is no parish church. About eighteen years ago, the late incumbent, with consent of the Presbytery, agreed to have the walls of an old house roofed and thatched, for a temporary place of worship, until circumstances should render it necessary to build a parish church. Measures are now in progress for this purpose, as the present house is in a ruinous state. The church is to be built near the centre of the parish, about twenty miles from the south extremity, and eighteen from the north end, close by the si(e of the house now used as a parish church, and conveniently situate for about 439 out of a population of 6890. There is no manse nor glebe. The minister receives L.50 a year for these accommodations. A process of augmentation of stipend is still pending before the Court of Session, so that the amount of stipend cannot be stated at present. There are two missionaries in the parish, one at Boisdale, in the south part of it, and the other at Benbecula. They are paid out 196 INVERNR8S-SHIRE. of the Royal Bounty for the Reformation of the Highlands and Islands, at the rate of L.60 a year ; and L.20 a year is given by the heritor in lieu of accommodations. There are no catechists. The Catholics, who form more than two-thirds of the population, have three chapels. The bishop resides at Glasgow. The number of families attending the Established Church is about 354, of indi- viduals, 980. Divine service is generally well attended in sum- mer ; in winter, such as are at a considerable distance cannot re- gularly attend, some of them having to travel nine miles to the church. The people are quiet and peaceable, and sectarianism has not obtaincNd any footing among them. 'J^hose of the Ester blished Church live on the best terms with their Catholic neigh- bours. There are no church collections, the people being so poor that nothing can be collected in that way for religious and charitable ob- jects. Attempts were made, several years ago, in better times, to have regular church collections for the poor, but they proved abortive. Education, — There are 10 schools in the parish, viz. 1 parochial school ; 2 of the Assembly's schools ; 2 from the Society for Pro« pagating Christian Knowledge ; 1 from the Gaelic School Society ; 1 from the Glasgow Auxiliary'Society ; 1 in the Island of Eriscay, supported by individual subscription ; and 2 female schools for knit- ting, sewing, and reading Gaelic Latin and Greek are only taught in the parish school and one of the Assembly's : in all, (the female schools excepted,) reading English and Gaelic, writing, arithme- tic, and book-keeping are taught The school-fees are from Gs. to 12s. a year, and, owing to the poverty of the people, are very ill paid. The number of those between six and fifteen years who cannot read or write, is about 600 ; and of those above fifteen years, 414& An additional school is required in a place called Stonybridge, which is a populous district, and distant from any of the other schools. The people are not, in general, alive to the benefits of education. This is partly owing to their poverty and consequent inability to pay the school -fees, and partly to the necessity of their employing the children at work, and herding cattle. Indeed, the poor children in general are so ragged and destitute of clothes and shoes, that in some districts most of them cannot attend school in winter, which is the season of the year when they could most conve- niently attend. This destitution is very general, but is particularly observable at Ichdar, where there is one of the schools from the SOUTH UlST. 197 Society (ot Propagating Christian KnowledgOi which, for this cause, is very ill attended, although the district contains a popula- tion of 756 persons. It is really grievous to see how ill all the schools in the parish are attended, owing to the causes above stat-p ed, with the exception of the Assembly's school at Bailivanich. Inns, — There are four inns in the parish, which, with the ex- ception of one, are ill kept. Miscellaneous Observations. Forty years ago, the rental of the parish was L.2200 ; it is now L. 5600. The produce has been more than tripled since 1796. This increase is owing to the improvements in agriculture, and the necessity of rearing more cattle, and raising more crop, for a po- pulation nearly doubled since that time. The crofts are too small to enable the tenantry to rear good cattle ; and the number of horses kept by them (by far too many) renders it impossible for them to do justice to their cows. If the crofts were enlarged, by joining every two or three of them together, cattle of a superior description might be reared, and a better sys* tem of husbandry followed. But it is impossible to adopt such a plan, while the parish is overstocked with people ; and matters must remain in a miserable state, unless the surplus population emigrate, which they cannot do, owing to their poverty, unless Go- vernment send them to some of the colonies, free of expense. In* closures and drains are very much required; and good roads to the moorland, through the different farms in the parish, would be one of the most essential improvements of which it is susceptible. A great deal might also be done, as already stated, by draining some of the lakes; by which, an extensive surface of excellent soil might be brought into cultivation. 1837. N. B. — Since this Account was drawn up, the property of Ranald G. Macdonald, Esq. of Clanranald, lying in the islands of Benbecula and South Uist, has been purchased by Colonel Gordon of Cluny.— Jan. 1841. PARISH OF BARRAY. PRESBYTERY OF UIST, SYNOD OF GLENBLO. ' THE REV. ALEXANDER NICOLSON, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — Some have supposed that the parish derives its name from St Barr, who was always considered by the natives as the tutelar saint of Barray, to whom the principal Romish churches in the island are dedicated, and called Killbar in honour to him. Nothing can show better the estimation in which this personage was held in the eyes of the people, than their having set apart a day annually as a holiday to his memory. On that day (25th of September,) all the Roman Catholic population convene in their chapel in the forenoon to hear mass, from whence they set off to Killbar, each man riding his small pony, with his wife or favourite lass mounted behind him ; who, after riding thrice round the sacred edifice, return to the place from whence they set out The females provide, before-hand, quantities of wild field carrots for this occasion, with which they treat their partners. This superstitious ceremony, which has been adhered to for ages, is still countenanced by their priests, although they acknowledge that the Roman calendar has never been honoured with St Barr^s name. But it must be observed that, by the intermixture of strangers with the natives, this ceremony is felling greatly into disuse. With due respect for St Barr, it is much more probable that the name of Barray was originally derived from its particular situation or bearing, t. e. from Ay or /, an island, and Bar^ a point or top ; Barray forming the point or top island of the Hebrides. Boundaries J Extent^ i^c. — The parish is formed of that cluster of islands lying at the south-west end of Lewis Islands, or the Western Hebrides. It is bounded on the north by a channel of six miles, separating it from South Uist; the islands of Canna and Rum are the nearest lands to it on the east, distant about twenty-six miles; the islands of Coll and Tyrie, are the nearest lands to it on the south, distant about thirty miles ; and on the west it is bounded by BARRAY. 199 the Atlantic Ocean. The parish consists of the main island of Barray, properly so called, besides several other islands of con- siderable sizO) amounting in all to upwards of twenty. About ten of these are inhabited, and the others used as grazings. The main island of Barray is about 12 miles in length, but varying in breadth from 6 to 3 miles, being much indented by bays and arms of the sea, principally on the east side. The other islands vary in extent from 4 acres to 1800 acres. Those to the south-west stretch out in one line from the mainland to Berneray or Barray- head, about 15 miles. The currents and tides run with great ra- pidity between these islands, increased by the immense swell from the Atlantic Ocean, so as to render the intercourse betwixt them and the other islands not only hazardous, but at times impossible. Topographical Appearances, — Although Barray cannot boast of high mountains, yet there are some of considerable height, yield- ing fine pasture to their very tops, with very little heather inter- mixed. And though, at first sight, the aspect of the island appears rocky in the eyes of a stranger, yet, upon a more minute examina- tion, it will be found interspersed with pleasant and fruitful hol- lows and valleys, together with some low rich meadow land. In- deed, the whole island, as well as its numerous appendage islets, yield to no other place of their extent in the Highlands of Scot- land, for pasture of every description. The west coast of the island, with the exception of two or three sandy bays, is defended against the powerful attacks of the Atlantic billows, by a barrier of im- mense rocks, many of which are, by the constant action of the waves upon them, excavated into a variety of deep caves and dread- ful fissures, some of which are so very steep as to render it impossible for any person, not possessed of strong nerves, to look down from the top of the rock to the frightful gulf below. The islands of Berneray and Mingalay are particularly distinguished for the height of their rocks. That immediately below the light-house, erected a few years since, at Berneray or Barray-head, is about 700 feet above the level of the sea, and there is another rock in the adja- cent island of Mingalay reckoned to be 1 400 feet of perpendi- cular height The extent of the parish firom Scirrival, the most northerly point of the main island, to Berneray, the most southerly island belonging thereto, may be estimated about 28 miles, includ* ing the different channels intervening. On the east shore, the land is rocky, with heath and moss, with the exception of one great bay, which is sandy, as also some of the land to the north. The 200 INVERNESS-SHIUE. west shore is both rocky and sandy* The principal bays are on the east side, and constitute excellent and safe harbours for ship- ping, such as Bayhierava (or inland bay), Uilevay, Castlebay, Watersaybay, Flodday sound, and Ottirvore. All these are enters ed from the east. The principal headland in Barray is Bemeray or Barray-head, from whence many ships steer their course for America. The names of the larger islands of which the parish of Barray is formed, and which are mostly inhabited, are as follows : Watersay, Sanderay, Pabbay, Mingalay, and Berneray to the south ; Flodday, Hellisay, Gighay, Uidhay, and several others of a smaller description, not inhabited, to the east and north-east* Meteorology. — The most prevalent winds in Barray, as well as in the rest of the Western Isles, are south-west and north-west The most violent gales that blow are generally from the south- west, and their dreadful effects are visible on such parts of the islands as are composed of loose drifting sand, and exposed to the Atlantic gales. There, the sand is driven to and fro by every suc- cessive gale, leaving nothing behind but the rocky skeletons of granite or whinstone, where once the ground was clothed with a beautiful variety of red and white natural clover. The same wind carries along with it great quantities of rain during a part of the autumn, and most of the winter ; but in the month of March, the wind occasionally veers round to the east, with cold dry weather. Due north and south winds are not very frequent, and rarely con- tinue above two or three days at a time. Although the climate is, in general, variable and fluctuating, yet it is &r from being unfavourable to the human constitution, as in- stances of longevity have occurred here, as frequently as in any other part of Scotland ; and there are still to be found in the pa^ rish a few who have exceeded a hundred years, with all their men- tal faculties unimpaired. The quantity of rain that falls cannot with any degree of accuracy be ascertained, as no regular meteo- rological tables are kept ; but the quantity that falls in Barray is in general far less than what falls in any of the adjacent islaodsb perhaps owing to the lowness of its hills. The climate is^ upon the whole, mild, from its being surrounded by the sea^ and the reflection of the sun upon the sandy soil, of which a great part of the island is composed, to which also may be ascribed the early vegetation and ripening of corn and grasses. Sown hay has been cut down here in the month of June, and barley sometimes at early as the latter end of July or beginning of August ; and in- 3 ARRAY. 201 stances haye been known of barley sown on the 20th of June being cut down ripe in September. Snow and frost are little known in fliis island, and when they appear, seldom continue more than a few days at a time. The diseases most prevalent are rheumatism, fevers, croup, asthma, bowel-complaints, cutaneous eruptions, sore l^s in consequence of frequent immersion in salt-water during the boating and fishing, and such other diseases as are the usual concomitants of poor living, want of cleanliness, and destitution of clothing. Besides the other various evils to which the inhabit- ants are subject, the want of a medical practitioner among them 18 not the least; neither is there any of that profession within twenty miles, to whom they can apply for advice, under the most distressing circumstances. The consequence is, that people are often cut off in the prime of life, who, under the management of a skilful medical man, might be spared to their families. Rainbows, halos, and polar lights are seen often in this quarter* It is universally admitted that the aurora borealis or polar lights make their appearance much more frequently in our hemisphere now, than ever they did in former times, and in much greater splen- dour. They generally prognosticate a change of weather from good ' to bad, or from bad to good. The halo about the moon indicates in summer rain, and in the winter snow or frost. As the south-west and north-west are the prevailing winds, when the atmosphere thickens to the west, it prognosticates rain and bad weather ; but while the west keeps clear, no change of weather is apprehended. The Island of Berneray, (anciently denominated the Bishop Island,) and the adjacent island of Mingalay, are particularly dis- tinguished (as already observed) for the height of their rocks, and their romantic appearance in every other respect; but what adds greatly to the splendid scenery of these precipices, are the innu- merable tribes of aquatic fowls by which they are inhabited, during the whole of the summer season. These birds pay their first visit to the rocks on the 1st day of February, early in the morning, when they clean oift the rubbish of last year's nests. Betwixt that period and the month of May, ihey pay cursory visits to the rocks. Early in the month of May, they lay their eggs on the shelves of the rocks, so close to each other that it appears wonderful how they can distinguish their own eggs from those that surround them. Each of these birds has but one egg, and as soon as the young one is hatched, ^nd INVERNESS. O *202 INVEUiNKSS-SHIUK. gathers strength about the end of July, the old bird gets it upon its own back, and throws itself and the young one headlong into .the sea below, from whence it returns no more that season. Of these fowls there is no great variety visiting the above rocks ; but few as they are, each tribe keeps possession of a certain division of the rocks, which its neighbours dare not approach. Thus from the bottom to the top of the rock, each keeps its own divi- sion. Nothing can possibly exceed the grandeur of beholding the myriads of these aquatic fowls standing erect on the ledges of these precipices, sometimes three and four deep, with their white breasts and red bills, resembling files of soldiers standing at ease, and so very tame, that a person might catch them with his' hands, were he able to approach them; and when roused from their slumber by the firing of a shot, they rise over your head like a cloud of locusts, deafening by their cries, and darkening the sky by their numbers. The natives, at very great risk, de- scend into the rocks, and not only rob the poor birds of their eggs, but kill them for their carcase and feathers. The fi.rst they reckon good eating, and the feathers they sell for beds. This desperate robbery has 'cost some of the natives their lives. No less than two melancholy instances of this kind have occurred within a few years. It is hardly possible to point out a scene more worthy of being visited for grandeur and variety than that of these rocks, particularly during the months of June and July. St Kilda, so often resorted to by strangers, Coruisge, Cuiraing, or any other place on the coast of Scotland, cannot come in competition with the scenery of the southern isles of Barray, during the period above-mentioned. Hydrography. — There are only four fresh water lakes in the island, none of which exceed half a mile or a mile in length, or deserve any farther notice, than that they abound in small black trout and eels, and have each an old dun built upon one of. their small rocks or islands. Neither are there any rivers or streams of consequence, as in a place so confined, and so intersect- ed by arms of the sea, rivers of any considerable size cannot be formed. Although the island abomids in springs of excellent fresh water, yet there is none of any medicinal quality. Geology -and Mineralogy. — The rocks in this parish are gene-^ rally of coarse granite : but in the Island of Berneray a quarry of granite has been discovered of a very superior quality, beauti- BARKAY. 203 fully marled, and said to be inferior to none of the kind in Scot- land. Of this stone the light-house and its appendages are built. It bears to be dressed and polished in a superior style. The soil of this place is of different kinds and qualities, such as moss, light sand, light black soil, and meadow land. Zoology* — Barray can boast of no species of animals peculiar to itself, nor any birds but such as are common along the whole coast of the Western Isles. Deer appear to have been inhabitants of it at one time, from the number of their horns still found buried in the earth. No part of the west coast of Scotland abounds more in fish of every description than Barray, such as ling, cod, tusk, hake, turbot, flounders, together with the various other kinds that frequent the western isles ; and the coast is frequently visited by immense shoals of herrings, which the inhabitants seldom take the advantage of catching, for want of proper tackling. The grub-worm often proves destructive to the labour of the farmer, more especially in cold wet weather, and the caterpillar no less hurtful to that of the gar- dener. Various means have been resorted to for their destruction, but none have proved effectual. With regard to shell-fish, no place on the western coast abounds more in this article of food than Barray. Here are to be found lobsters, crabs, clams, razor- fish, muscles, welks, limpets, and the still more important shell- fish the cockle, constituting, in scarce years, a principal part of the subsistence of the inhabitants. Cockles are to be found in the sands of Barray in such immense quantities, that scores of horse loads may be taken up during a single tide, and the people con- sider them the most nourishing shell-fish on their shores. Some- times they eat them when boiled, out of the shell, at other times, such as have milk, boil it and the cockles together, making them into soup, which they consider a very nutritious diet. They com- mence the use of them in times of scarcity in April, and continue the use of them till the beginning of August. The people allege that the quantity of this fish found on the shores is much greater in scarce seasons than at any other time. Botany. — Under this head, little or nothing can be said, as there is no herb or plant in Barray but such |as are common to every other parish in the Western Hebrides. Barray is as defec- tive in the article of timber, as any of its neighbouring isles. It is said that wood will not grow in any part of the Long Island, but the truth is, that no trial has ever been made. It is beyond doubt, 20 4 INVERNESS-SIIIUE. that these islands were once clothed with woods, from the in- numerable trunks of large trees still found under ground, even some of them below high water-mark. Certain it is, however, that young plantings will not thrive very close to the west shores, exposed to the sea spray ; but there are many sheltered spots in every island, where there is hardly a doubt that trees would thrive. As a proof of this, Colonel Macneil, the late proprietor of Barray, had a spot on the east side of the island planted with various kinds of trees which grew in a few years as well as could be expected any- where; but the proprietor transplanted them to the ground about his mansion house, where they had not the same shelter, and where the soil was light sand ; in consequence of which, they pined away ; whereas, had they been left where they were originally planted, they might in a few years have been large trees. This limited trial proves that it is not impossible to rear trees in Barray, by proper care. Fruit trees when lined to garden walls, thrive well, and yield ex- cellent fruit, but not otherwise. II. — Civil History. As this parish was only disjoined from that of South Uist in 1733 -34, there can be no historical account of it previous to that date, but as connected with South Uist. Dean Munro, however, who wrote his history of the Western Isles in 1540-49, thus describes Barray : " Not far from the Isles Watersay, (one of the islets belonging to Barray,) towards the north by twa myle of sea, lyes the Isle of Barray, being seven myle in lengthe from the south-west to the north-eist, and be north, and foure in breadthe from the south-eist to the north-west, ane fer- till and fruitful ile in cornes, abounding in the fishing of kielling, ling, and all uther quhite fish, with ane paroche kirk namit Kill- bare. Within the south-west end of this ile, there enters a salt water loche, verey narrow in the entrey, and round and braid with- in. Into the middis of this loche ther is ane castle in an ile, up- on an strengthey craige, callit Kilclerin, (now called Kismul) per- taining to Mr Mack Neil of Barray. In the north end of this ile of Barray, there is ane rough heigh know, mayne grasse and greine round about it to the head, on the topof quhilk ther is ane spring and fresh water well. This well truely springs up certain little round white things, less nor the quantity of confeit come, lykest to the shape and figure of an little cokill, as it appeared to me. Out of this well runs ther an little strype downwith to the sea, and nARRAY. 205 quher it enters into the sea ther is ane myle braid of sands, quhilk ebbs ane myle, callit the Fray more of Kilbaray, that is, the grate sandes of Barray. This ile is full of grate cokills, and al* ledgit by the ancient countrymen that the same cokills comes down out of the foresaid hill through the said strype, in the first small forme that we have spoken of, and after ther coming down to the sandes growis grate cokills always. Ther is na fairer and more profitable sands for cokills in all the warld. This ile pertaines to MacNeil of Barray." Nothing can show the credulity of the Deao more than this account of the cockles beincr formed in cm- bryo on the top of a hill, in a fresh water spring, and thereafter car- ried down to the sea where they grow large. There certainly is such a spring yet to be seen, but no visible appearance of any thing like cockles forming there. Martin, who wrote about ICO years later than the Dean, repeats the same incredible story of the cockles. This parish was surveyed in 1820-21, and plans drawn, when the superficial contents were found to be about 22,000 imperial acres, including the several islands connected with it. Colonel Macneil is the only owner ; but the property is now under seques- tration and in the hands of creditors.* Family of Macneil. — The family of the Macneils have held possession of Barray for time immemorial. Martin sa\s that when he visited this place in 1703, the Highland chro- niclers alleged that the Macneil then in possession was the thirty-fourth lineal descendant from the first who obtained it. Whether this account be correct or not to the full extent, it is cer- tain that the Macneils possessed these islands for a great length of time. In the Register Office a charter may be seen by Alexander Lord of the Isles and Earl of Ross, giving to Gilleownan, the son of Rodrick, the son of Murdoch Macneil, not only all the lands of Barray, but also Boisdale in South Uist, on condition of as- sisting the Lord of the Isles, as well in peace as in war, against all enemies whatsomever, men and women, by sea and land, litis charter was given at Finlagan, in Islay, in 1427; and was con- firmed by King James IV. at Stirling in 1495, after the power of the Lords of the Isles had been broken down. The Macneils were of old a great terror to their neighbours, as, being expert sea- men, they carried 'their depredations to every creek in the VVo>(- • Since the abovo was written, the whole estate of Uarray has been i»urcha.sul by Colonel Gordon of Cluny. 206 INVERNESS-SHIRE. • ern Islands, which might be a powerful reason with the Lord of the Isles for making them his allies. One of them in particular was remarkable for his activity and turbulence (called Resary an Tartair) or the noisy or troublesome Bodricky who spared neither friend or foe, until at last he committed piracy on one of Queen Eli- zabeth's ships, when a reward ^as offered for his apprehension, which was at length accomplished with very great ingenuity by the tutor of Kintail, as may be seen more fully detailed in the former Statistical Account Martin relates, that ** the inhabitants of this and the other islands belonging to Macneil make application to^him for wives and husbands, he names the persons, and gives them a bottle of strong waters for the marriage feast. Their usual address to him is, that they want a wife or a husband to manage their affairs, and beget him followers ; and he makes up the match without any long court- ship, for he takes what care he can that their circumstances may suit one another. The people preserve their sea-fowl by salting them with the ashes of sea-ware, by putting them up in cow hides." Parochial Register^ — There is no parochial register kept in this parish, nor can we learn that any was ever kept This may be accounted for by the parishioners having been, till of late, almost all Roman Catholics, over whom the minister could exercise no control. Antiquities.^— liheTe are several ruins of religious houses in Barray, some of which appear to be of ancient structure. The prin- cipal ones are at Killbar. Each of these has an altar of rough stones in one end, and the pedestal of a cross stands at a short distance from the buildings. These churches were dedicated to St Barr; and of old a wooden figure of the saint was stuck up for the adoration of the deluded people. This figure was dressed up in its best habiliments on the saint's anniversary, and we are credibly informed, that it was customary for persons proceed- , ing on a journey to make some present to the saint, of clothes or linen, to insure prosperity to their undertakings. No trace of this figure is now to be seen. Numerous watch-towers are over the whole of the islands of Barray, — as also Duns upon every lake in the place, supposed to be built by the Scandinavians, when in possession of these islands. There are likewise many Druidi- cal circles, as they are designated ; but a Danish gentleman, who lately visited these parts as historiographer to the Kjng of Denmark, maintains that they are of Scandinavian origin, and were intended by these people as places for their heathen wor- BARRAY. 207 ship* In several of the islands are to be seen immense heaps of human bones : and we have been credibly informed by a gentleman of some information, and a native of the place, that he had seen, on the island of Watersay, the entire skeleton of a trooper and his horse, where they had fallen side by side on the sand, with some pieces of the armour pretty entire, where the sand-drift had exposed them to view. Although this gentleman's veracity can- not be doubted, it is difficult to account for the fact. There are several tumuli over the country in which, when opened, were found human bones along with deer horns. The most entire and regular ancient building in Barray is KismuU Castle, the ancient residence of the Macneils of Bar- ray. It is built upon a small rock in the middle of a beautiful bay, (Kilelerin of Dean Munro). The whole rock is covered by the sea at high water ; the castle is of an irregular 6gure, strongly built, with anchorage for small vessels on every side of it. It is about 60 feet high, with a square tower in one corner, overtopping the rest of the wall by many feet. Tradition says that delinquents were let down by a rope and conBned there. Immediately over the entry to the castle, the gockman or watchman stood all night, repeating some rhyme to keep himself awake, and throwing stones down over the outside of the gate through a hole made in the wall for the purpose, to prevent a surprise. On the area within the walls, the dwelling-houses were built, which, if we may judge by their size and appearance, must have a£forded but very indif- ferent accommodations. In the centre of the area a large circular well is sunk ; but it is doubtful whether it was used as a reservoir for rain-water, or sunk for the purpose of raising water from beneath. The well is now filled up with stones thrown into it by the natives, in order to prevent accidents. Attached to this castle, at the entrance to the gate, there is a dock built for the galley, adapted to the exact length and breadth of the boat, and defended on the west by a strong wall from the action of the sea. Martin says that the na- tives informed him, that the castle was 500 years old when he vi- sited the island, and that it had then its regular officers and guards, keeping watch upon the walls to prevent surprise. Both coins and arms have often been found in Barray, but none of them have been preserved. About three years ago, in trench- ing the clergyman's garden, a gold medal, nearly the size of a half-crown-piece, was dug up. It was cast for the coronation of 208 INVERNESS-SHIRK. Augustus, the second King of Poland ; but how it found its way to this distant corner, is not easily understood, unless we suppose that it belonged to some person on board of a Dutch ship which was wrecked on this coast, when on her way to Batavia, about the be- ginning jof the last century, when every person on board was lost, including several people of rank. As the bodies of these men were washed ashore, it is more than probable that this medal was found upon one of them. Modem Buildings. — The mansion-house of Barray at Eoligary, built by the late proprietor, is a most commodious building, situat- ed in a sheltered place, and surrounded by fields of fine improve- able lands, not inferior in quality or appearance to any in the Western Isles. The manse, which is very commodious, was built in 1816, but stands now in need of some repairs. A church was built a few years since, and can accommodate 250 sitters in the ground area, and is fitted for galleries to accommodate 200 more, if necessary. There are three other excellent farm-houses slated^ and in good condition. A mill has lately been erected for grind- ing of corn, on a better construction than any that had been there before. There is likewise an extensive soda manufactory, which has been working for several years,' but it was found at last neces- sary to discontinue it, after it had involved the proprietor in such expenses as obliged him to sequestrate his whole property fori)ehoof of his creditors, and now to advertise it for sale. Of late, a most splendid lighthouse has been erected on the island of Berneray or Barray-head, the farthest south of all the Barray isles, with that beautiful granite found upon the island itself. The roof of it, as well as the houses built for the keepers, are all covered with sheet- lead. IIL — Population. According to the church records the population of the parish in 1750 was I28& Dr Webster's return, - - - J 755 1150 Dr Walker's return, - - . 1771 ISftS Sir John Sinclair's Account, . . 1791 1604 Gavernnient census, ... IgQl 1925 Do. Do. - - . 1811 1969 Do. Do. , . . 1821 2803 Do. Do. - - . 1831 2097 The increase in the population would have been very great, ow- ing to early marriages, and the reluctance of the people to leave the country for work in the south, — had not emigration to Cape Briton and Nova Scotia carried off the island a great many almost every year. In some years, several hundreds leave it for those places* At present, there are 278 families who possess lanxls, and 93 femi* BARRAY. 209 lies who hold no lands whatever. Of the last, 70 persons are upon the poor's roll ; 3 are fatuous : 4 deaf and dumb ; and 2 blind. The average of births, deaths, and marriages, cannot with accuracy be ascertained, for want of a parochial register, and from the great nugodty of the population being Roman Catholics. Very few attain the age of thirty before they marry, and some- times they enter into that state at twenty. This may account for the fewness of illegitimate children born in the parish, — instances of which are very rare. HabiiSf S^c of the People. — The inhabitants are of the middle size) patient and hardy in enduring cold and fatigue. They are expert seamen, and considered the best boatmen in the Western Isles. No instance has occurred of a Barra boat being lost for upwards of twenty years, although boats are generally at sea both summer and winter. Gaelic is the language universally spoken, and it is very pure and still unmixed with many English words. The Eng- lish language has made little or no progress, because schools have been wanting. The people of Barray have no games or amuse- ments but what are common to the surrounding islands. Dancing, with music of the bagpipes, is a favourite pastime. They are not remarkable for cleanliness in their habits or dress in general, yet on holidays their appearance is decent enough. The men dress in jackets and trowsers of home-made or south country cloth ; the women wear clothes made by themselves, and, at times, south country droggets or prints. They wear a handkerchief about their head instead of a cape, and a petticoat about their shoulders for a cloak. The women are slovenly in their manners, and not very active or cleanly. The people are so very poor, that many of them are destitute of bed-clothes. Their ordinary food consists of barley-meal, potatoes, and milk^ and attimes fish, with which those placed in the more favourable situa- tions are abundantly supplied. All the fishermen export their cod and ling to Glasgow and other markets, and reserve such fish as is not marketable for the use of their own families. In very scarce years^ such as 1836 and 1837, they subsist, in a great measure, upon cockles and other shell-fish, with very little bread and milk. Under all these destitutions, it is surprising how contented they are with their lot With regard to their intellectual powers, little can be said. Their want of education, together with their seclusion from the society of other countries, must confine the exercise of their 210 INVRRVESS-SHIRG. intellectual powers within very narrow limits. Still they are shrewd and inquisitive, but too indolent and indiSerent to provide for them- selves or families any of those comforts or necessaries of life which, by a little more exertion and prudence, they might easily acquire. They are extremely addicted to the use of both spirits and tobac- co-smoking. There are more spirits consumed in Barray than in any other place of its extent in the Western Islands. In point of religion, the natives, who are mostly Roman Catholics, are not worse than their neighbours of the same persuasion. They are regular in their attendance on their own worship, without, perhaps, bringing forth those fruits which such attendance should naturally produce. As soon as the congregation is dismissed, the inn is their common resort, where they drink to such excess as often ends in a quarrel. The Protestants, who are comparatively few in num- ber, and mostly strangers from other parts of the Highlands, are, with few exceptions, sober and industrious, and in their religious attainments, are noways behind their neighbours in the adjacent islands. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — By a survey made of this parish in 1820-21, it was found to contain 22,072,943 imperial acres, distinguished into arable, machir or sandy ground, hill-pasture, moss or meadow, as follows : Ara))1c, . , 3921.9377 Mnchir or fiandy, . 1540.453 Hill pasture. . 16139.5089 Moss or meadow, . 470.9938 Total, 22072.943 As all the lands in Barray are let either in farms or in crofb, consisting of arable and pasture ground intermixed, it is not pos- sible to ascertain the exact rent of an arable acre. Rent of Land. — The average price of a cow's grass depends much on the quality of the pasture, which varies much in diffe- rent parts of the parish. It may, however, be stated at L. 1, IDs. or L. 2 per annum ; that of a sheep, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per an- num. Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants receive from L. 4 to L. 7 per annum, exclusive of maintenance ; and women from L.2 to ll 3 per annum, besides maintenance. Daily labourers receive Is. 6d. in summer, and Is. in winter, per day, without maintenance. Ma- sons receive 2s. 6d. per day ; house carpenters 2s. ; and all country BARRAY. 211 artisans, such as tailors, shoemakers, weavers, charge according to the quality of the article wrought, or the labour bestowed upon it The black-cattle of Barray are very good. The stock reared by the proprietor himself was considered as one of the best in the Highlands. The small horses reared by the crofters are much esteemed, both for their symmetry and hardiness ; of these they keep too many, to the detriment of their black-cattle, at the same time that they find them exceedingly useful for the manufacture of their kelp, and for leading sea-weed from their shores for manure, although a much fewer number might serve them for every use- ful purpose. No regular sheep stock had been introduced into this parish until last year, and those who are the best judges are of opinion, that no place in the Highlands is better adapted for the rearing of sheep than Barray. The prices of black-cattle have been, for a few years back, less than they formerly were, and have varied so much every year that it is hardly possible to state an average price. Corn, meal, and potatoes, are all sold here by measure ; never by weight. The boll of meal consists of twenty pecks ; the peck contains 5^ pints English liquid measure ; the country people,- however, have a measure among themselves, used nowhere else, which they call an omer^ containing two pecks. Po- tatoes are sold by barrel measure, containing 35 English gallons. Meal sells at Is. per peck, and potatoes at an average of 2s. per barrel. The imperial measure has not as yet been introduced into this parish, except in the case of spirits or other liquids. Husbandry. — As the parish is better adapted for grazing than agri- culture, it cannot be supposed that the latter has made much pro- gress. There are but few farms fit for a regular system of agricul- ture, and these are now let to graziers, who seldom crop much of their ground.- The chief part of the lands is let to small tenants in crofts, from year to year ; and it cannot be supposed that much improvement can be carried on in clearing or inclosing land, under such a precarious holding. Notwithstanding all the disadvantages under which they labour, they now turn their small patches of ground to much better purpose than they formerly did ; for every crofter has his own small plough and couple of ponies, with which he turns up his ground with much more ease and in a better style than under the old system with the machine called crom-na^ffaddj which required the labour of four men and three horses. By sim- plifying their agriculture, the people are now enabled to raise a 212 INVERNESS-SHIRE. sufficiency of corn and potatoes for their own consumption, un- less in very unfavourable seasons, such as the two last, when the most part of the Western Highlands suffered a destitu- tion similar to what they experienced. They plant their potatoes, in general, with the plough, when the ground admits of it ; and when it does not, they plant them with the dibble, and have returns of from 6fteen to twenty. The principal manure is sea-weed, which they lay upon the ground at all periods from November to the end of May ; but the earliest laid on always yields the best quality of potatoes. After their potato crop, crops ofbarley and oats succeed. Without giving the tenants a more permanent tenure of their lands by leases, making their crofits larger, and encouraging them in clearing, draining, and enclosing and following a more regular system of crofting than what has been hitherto pursued, — it is impossible to expect that any great improvement in their manage- ment can take place. The common buildings or dwellings of the peasantry are of a most miserable description ; the wall is formed of loose undressed stone, without mortar of any kind, the centre being filled up with common earth, roofed and covered over with divot and straw, bound together by heather ropes. There are neither windows nor chimneys. For the first, they have round holes in the thatch for admitting the light; and one or more holes on each side of the house, which are opened or shut, according as the wind blows ; and a hole in the roof for emitting the smoke of their peat-fires, which are placed in the middle of their bare earthen floor. In one end of this miserable habitation they live, with their cows and horses in the other, during the winter and spring seasons. The natives have little or no idea of cleanliness or comfort. They have seldom much furniture to boast of; some- times not a chair to sit upon, a bed to sleep on, or bed-clothes to cover them from the severity of the night air ; yet these very people resort to the dram-house as often as they can spare a shil* ling for that purpose. There are, however, some exceptions from this, in the conduct of those who have come to Barra from other countries* These have built for themselves more comfortable dwellings* They are more cleanly in their habits and dress, and far more industrious and of more sober habits than those they found on the spot ; and it is hoped that their example in this respect will have a salutary influence on the manners^ habits, and industry of their neighbours. Under the late proprietor of BARUAY. 213 Barray, the people enjoyed every comfort consistent with their rank and situation in life. He was remarkable for his kind treat- ment of them. Another great obstacle to the improvement of their lands, is the manufacture of kelp, at which the people are bound by their holdings to labour during the summer season, and even sometimes to the end of August, the fittest time for the im- provement of their lands, and attending to the management of the crop in the ground. Although this article of manufacture was a source fi*om whence the Highland proprietors derived great bene- . fit while it sold at high prices, and employed the people at remu* nerative wages, yet it has turned out in the end ruinous to both proprietors and tenants, — whose dependence had been placed much upon it. The tenantry have thus been reduced to the utmost po- verty ; and are unable to pay their high rents, and still less able to betake themselves to any other country by emigration. Colonel Macncil, the late proprietor, while he resided in the parish, (which he did for some years,) made some useful improve- ments in the farm of Eoligary, which he kept in his own posses- sion, by draining and inclosing. Fisheries. — Barray is perhaps one of the best fishing stations on the west coast, and might prove, were proper means taken, a considerable source of wealth. The people at present are too poor to carry on fishing on an extensive scale, from their in- ability to purchase or build boats capable of encountering the boisterous seas they have to contend with, or to provide sufficient materials for their fishing ; yet, under every disadvantage to which they are subject, they generally employ from 20 to 30 boats, of about three tons each, in the fishing, with five men to each boat ; but, from the smallness of their size, they are often unable to put to sea, or to carry on the employment systematically. They are, in some seasons, however, pretty successful when the weather is fa- vourable : and then they go with their own boats to Glasgow or Greenock, with what ling or cod they take. The people of Bar- ray were in former years very successful in harpooning cearbans or sail-fish, from which they extracted a good deal of oil, and receiv- ed a premium from the Board of Trustees for Fisheries ; but this productive source of wealth has been discontinued, from their in- ability to provide the necessary tackling; and although hundreds of these fishes appeared last season on the coast, no one was in a condition to take advantage of the circumstance. Barray was in 214 INVERNESS-SHIRE. former times much frequented by great shoals of herrings ; but its lochs are now almost entirely deserted by that useful fish. Produce. — The average amount of raw produce raised in this parish cannot with any degree of accuracy be ascertained, as the most part of the lands (as already stated) is let in small lots to tenants who require the whole crop they raise for their own con- sumption. Krlp. — The only manufacture now carried on in this parish . is that of kelp, in which all hands, young and old, are employed for about eight or nine weeks, at L.l, 15s. or L.2 per ton, but for which they formerly received L. 4, 4s. per ton. Kelp, which on former occasions, sold at from L. 1 6 to L. 20 per ton, is now re- duced to L. 2, 10s. or L. 4 per ton at market, from barilla and salt being used as substitutes for it. There are only fi)ur vessels belonging to this place, there being little or no trade to employ more. V. — Parochial Economy. Market^Tmon. — There is no market-town in the parish. The nearest to this is Tobermory, in the county of Argyle, distant fifty miles by sea. Means of Communication. — The only means of communication by post with Barray is by Dunvegan, in the Isle of Skye, where the nearest post-ofiice is established. There is, however, a re- ceiving-house at Lochmaddy, from whence the packet sails to Dunvegan once or twice a week. A letter from this must of course pass by the ferry from Barray to South Uist, through the whole length of South and North Uist to Lochmaddy receivirig- house, and from thence by the packet to Dunvegan Post-OfiiQe, a distance by sea and land, including ferries, of not less than 100 miles. The Commissioners for Lights employ a small vessel from Barray- Head Lighthouse, to sail to Tobermory once a month with the monthly returns, as a quicker conveyance than by Dunvegan. The country boats, too, ply at all seasons of the year to Glasgow with fish and such other articles as the country produces ; so that the communication with the mainland is pretty frequent. The harbours in Barray (as already stated) are extremely com- modious and safe, which should be a great inducement to the prosecution of the fishing upon a more extensive scale than has been hitherto attempted. Ecclesiastical State. — The parochial church, which was built only a few years ago, is situated in the very centre of the parish, BAURAY. 215 pretty close to the manse. It is about six miles from each extre- mity of the main island ; of course, convenient for the attendance of all the parishioners resident on the main island. All the seats are free. The manse was built in 1816, with offices and garden. The glebe is a grass one, sufficient for the grazing of sixteen soums of cattle. It is of considerable extent ; but much broken up by rocks and stones. The present incumbent has, however, converted a good deal of it into excellent arable land, which yields good crops. Its value at present may be about L. 40 per annum. The stipend is one of those augmented by Government to L. 150, ex- clusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There is one Roman Catholic Chapel in the parish ; the bishop under whose jurisdiction it is, resides in Greenock. The number of Protestant families in the parish is 65 ; the number of families attending the Roman Catholic Chapel is 306. Divine service is pretty well attended in the Established Church, as also in the Roman Catholic Chapel. The number of communicants in the Esta- blislied Church may average about 70. Owing to the poverty of the people, no contributions are made for charitable purposes; neither are there any collections in the church. Education. — The parochial is the only school now in the pa- rish. English and writing only are taught there at present, although the teacher is qualified to teach Greek, Latin, arithmetic, book- keeping, and geography ; but as the school has but lately been opened, there are no scholars as yet advanced farther than Eng- lish reading. The salary of the parish schoolmaster is L. 26, exclusive of L.2, 2s. in lieu of a garden. No school- house has been built as yet, but the school is accommodated in the meantime in a house which is not fitted to accommodate any tolerable number of the parishioners. The fees generally exacted are. Is. 6d. for Eng- lish ; 2s. for English and writing ; reading, writing, and arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; Latin, &c. ds. per quarter. The number of scholars at last examination amounted to 40. The clergyman keeps a private tutor for his own family, who teaches the highest branches of education. There was formerly a school in the parish supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, which has for some time back been sup* pressed, for want of requisite accommodations. There was like- wise a female school from the same Society ; but it is not taught at present, as the mistress has been superannuated for some years 216 INVERNESS-SHIRE. back. To accommodate the people of this parish with the requisite means of education, three schools are required. Few of the natives can either read or write. Most of the Pro- testants who come from other places, are, however, able to read the Scriptures, either in English or Gaelic. The number of Pro« testants in Barray, when the present incumbent came to the parish, did not exceed 60 souls ; now they amount to about 880. There is not, perhaps, a single parish in Scotland in which the minister is put to so much trouble and expense in at- tending to his ministerial duties. The Presbytery seat is about forty miles distant, exclusive of fords and ferries; he has to tra- vel about 100 miles to the seat of Synod, besides ferries ; and the expense of travelling in the Highlands is very great. Poor and Parochial -Flum/*.— The average number of poor up- on the roll is about 70. The only fund in the hands of the kirk*session for the relief of these, is the interest on an heritable bond of L.400, left by two tacksmen, natives of Barray, which is distributed among them annually, according to their necessities. There is no church collection made, nor has there been any as- sessment for the support of the poor as yet resorted to. The peo- ple are, in general, very kind to their poor, who live in small houses of their own, where they are supplied by those around them with the necessaries of life, and thus they are prevented from begging fi*om door to door, or even leaving the parish for subsistence. They, however, show no reluctance in applying for relief, nor do they consider it as any ways degrading to do so. Markets. — The only markets in Barray are held in the summer and autumn seasons, for disposing of the surplus cows and horses to dealers from the mainland, who carry them to the southern mar- kets. Inns. — There are no fewer than three inns in the parish, where a great quantity of spirits is sold, the effects of which on the morals of the people are most pernicious. Fuel, — The only fuel used in Barray is peat, which is procured ffom a distance at great expense and trouble. Miscellaneous Obseryations. The face of the country has undergone a material change for the better, since the former Statistical Account was written. There are now excellent roads made through the greatest part of the Main Island, where a horse could then hardly walk. These roads were executed by the country people, under the Statute 3 BARRAY. 217 Labour Act : and they form an improvement of the highest conse- quence, as without roads no other improvement can be carried on. The state of the natives is truly deplorable, when compared with that of every other place, where education has found its way. The introduction of strangers into the parish has, however, given a spur to industry, to which the old inhabitants had little or no inclina- tion, their timQ having been chiefly occupied by boating and fish- ing during the best part of the spring season, and the tillage of their lands having been left to the women and children ; in con- sequence of which, the proprietor had annually to import a large quantity of low country meal to support his people during the sum- mer season, so as to enable them to manufacture the kelp : they now rai^ as much corn and potatoes as will supgly themselves, unless in very scarce years. The only way to render the people comfortable and industrious would be, to grant each tenant a larger portion of lands than what be presently possesses, as he could manage that with the same number of hands, and the same number of horses which he re- quires for the small lot ; and to grant the tenants a more permanent holding of their lands, by leases of nine or ten years, with stipula- tions for improvements, and other regulations. Rents should be paid in money instead of services, and such services as the land- lord requires ought to be commuted for an adequate sum in money, and every shadow of vassalage done away. Rents should be re- duced to a conformity with the real value of the lands, and ade- quate compensation given at the end of their leases for every use- fill and permanent improvement The tenants should be encourag- ed to build more comfortable houses for themselves, and their cow- houses should be separated : and each tenant should have a kit- chen-garden attached to his house, well fenced round with stone wall. Another great benefit to the parish would be the es- tablishment of a more constant communication with the mainland, by means of a regular packet boat, — which would enable the peo- ple to hold more regular intercourse with other countries, and so to have some insight into the manners, habits, and industry of other people. Were these improvements attended to, and due encourage- ment given to prosecute the fisheries, there is hardly a doubt that this small portion of the Western Islands might rival in wealth and happiness, any country of the same extent in the Highlands of Scotland. January 1840. INVERNESS. T PARISH OF PORTREE. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. COLL MACDONALD, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of the parish is Ceilltarraglan. In the Gaelic language, Ceill signifies a btirying-ground, taVj bottom, and gleann^ a glen ; Ceiltarraglan then signifies a burying-- ground placed at the bottom of a glen^ and no name can be more appropriate. The modern name of the parish is Portree, compounded of two Gaelic words, port signifying a harbour, and righ^ a king, the King's Harbour. This name was given to the parish in consequence of King James the Fifth, when on an aquatic excursion through this northern part of his dominions, having anchored and remained for some time in the harbour of Portree. Extent. — This parish is about 17 miles long, 12 miles broad, and contains 204 square miles. It is bounded on the north by the pa- rish of Snizort ; on the south by the parish of Strath ; on the east by that arm of the sea which separates it from the parishes of Gair- loch and Applecross ; and on the west by the parish of Bracadale. Topographical Appearances. — It is an oblong figure, and none can possibly be more irregular, being indented in various places and at short distances by arms of the sea. From the southern to the northern extremity, a glen runs through nearly the centre of the parish, and on each side of this glen, and along the whole length of it, there is a range of hills of various heights and dimensions. The most remarkable of these, is that which is distinguished by the name oi aite suidhe Fhin^ the sitting place of Fingal; where tradition says that hero sat, directing his followers at the chase. This hill rises with an ascent less or more gentle from the head of Loch Portree to the height of upwards of 2000 feet from the level of the sea ; and on the east side of the harbour of Portree, and nearly as high, stands the hillof Peindinavaig, the name of which signifies the hill of protection. To the south of this hill, and to. the north o! Loch Sl^ichan, stands the hill of Beioligh, which is not ISLAND OF SKYE — PORTREE, 219 quite 80 high as those above-mentioned. On the south side of Loch Sligichan stands the hill of Glamaig, of nearly equal height with the hills of Cullins in its immediate neighbourhood. At the top of Glamaig, there is a green plot of considerable extent, in the centre of which there is a spring which discharges an immense quantity of the purest and most salubrious water. With the ex- ception of Glamaig, a part of the top and sides of which is stripped of the soil by the heavy rains and high winds to which it is exposed, these hills are covered with the finest verdure from their bases to their summits. They abound with small rivulets and the best springs imaginable. They afford good pasture to both sheep and cattle, and, from the circumstance of these hills being almost surrounded by sea water, the pasture is not only abundant but salubrious to all the animals which frequent them. On the sea side in different places, both on the mainland part of the pa* rish and in the island of Rasay, there are small caves of various dimensions. With regard to these, there appears nothing worthy of particular attention, excepting that they furnish places of re- sort to the wild pigeons and water-fowls, which frequent the sea shore. The coast of this parish is of great extent. Along the shore, it frequently rises into grand, lofty, and almost perpendicular rocks, towering towards the skies. In some places, and more especially at the heads of lochs, the coast sinks almost into a level with the sea at high water. When the sea admits of examining the coast, it appears to be in some places sandy, in some muddy, in some clayey, and not un- frequently rocky. The principal bays inihis parish are Loch Inord, Loch Sligi- chan, the bay of Belmeanach, the bay of Camistinavaig, Loch Portree, together with the Big Harbour, and Dry Harbour, and several small bays in the island of Rasay. In no quarter of the world is the temperature of the atmosphere more variable than in this parish. All the changes of frost, snow, rain, storm, and dead calm, are frequently experienced in the short period of twenty-four hours. As might naturally be expected, the variable and humid state of the atmosphere in all seasons of the year is found highly injurious to the human constitution, and pro- duces among the inhabitants many diseases, — rheumatism, asthma, fever, and consumption. Hydrography .— k branch of the Atlantic Ocean divides Rasa^^ 220 INVERNESS-SHIUE. Uona, and other small islands belonging to Macleod of Rasay, from the great body of the parish. This arm of the sea runs along the whole length of the parbh, and is of various breadth and depth. It has, at all times, a sufficient depth of water to make it navigable to a first-rate ship of war. From the immense quantity of fresh water discharged into it from the adjacent hills of Rasay and Portree, together with the great admixture of soil carried into it by the rapid streams rushing from the neighbouring high-grounds with which it is surrounded, the water frequently, and more especially near the shore, acquires a dark and reddish colour; but in the summer season,- and when the weather has been for any length of time dry, the water along the coast is perfectly clear, and transparent as crystal. Near the shore, those arms of the sea, which in various places intersect the parish, are quite shallow, but as they recede from high* water mark, they acquire great depth, and a much greater degree of saltness ; but this latter quality is much less nearer the shore, from the immense quantity of fresh water which is discharged from the rivers and lakes which abound in the parish, and in its immediate vicinity. In this same channel, which divides Rasay and its ap- pending small isles from the main body of the parish, and more especially in spring tides, the current is most rapid in the nar* rows, and so much so ihat it greatly impedes, and sometimes alto- gether suspends, the progress of vessels sailing in a contrary direc- tion. Springs of greater number, and more salubrious water, are not to be seen in any quarter, than in this parish. In every season of the year, they discharge inexhaustible streams of the purest, the sweetest, and most wholesome water. Indeed, in the driest summer season, scarcely any of them is found to fail in fiimish- ng an abundant supply both for the use of animals and of the human species. Though none of the springs is of any great mag- nitude, their immense number amply compensates for this defi- ciency. They are found on the very summits of high hills, — they are seen on plain and level ground, — they frequently issue from the sides of hills, — they make their passage for the most part through a vast extent of gravelly soil, which is the soil most pre- valent in this parish, — and they are seen sometimes to spout from the fissures of black and flinty rocks. There are six fresh-water lakes in this parish, — the whole of them of different dimensions, ISLAND OF SKYE — PORTREE. 221 and the largest not above a mile long. With the exception of one, they all abound with trouts, — ^the fish of which is most nutri- tbus and agreeable to the taste. Round and about the edges or borders, the water is quite shallow. Towards the centre, they are sujppoised to be of very considerable depth. The soenery all around these lakes and their vicinity, is most romantic and beautiful. In some places, they are surrounded with high and perpendicular rocks ; in other places, as in Rasay, they are fringed with clumps of natural wood, and from them may be seen the grand, the picturesque hills of CuUins, in the parish of Bracadale, and Store, in the parish of Snizort, so much, of late years, a subject of admiration to travellers and scientific persons. From a lake in Rasay in a clear day may be seen all the hills on the mainland of this parish, and to the point of Hunish, and all the expanse of sea betwixt and the Island of Lewis. The rivers in this parish are not of considerable magnitude. They take their source from fresh-water lakes situated in the interior of the pa- . rish, or in a neighbouring parish ; and in time of heavy rain, which, in this quarter, is of no rare occurrence, they receive a vast addition to their body of water, from rain falling on the high hills, rushing down the sides with amazing rapidity, and overflow- ing their usual channeb and banks. These streams, meeting with obstructions in their descent from rocks, stones, and other superficial inequalities, often spread over a great portion of a hill, and, as they proceed, foaming and purling in all directions, they form one of the grandest scenes imaginable. All the rivers in this parish run in diflerent directions, and discharge themselves into various arms of the sea. The only cascade worth mentioning, is that which falls from one of the lakea in the northern extremity of the parish^ and is thrown from a projection of a rock many feet high ; and at the bottom of the rock, and betwixt the rock and the waterfall, several persons might walk abreast without being touched by the water in its fall. There are other smaller cascades in the parish. Geohgy and Mineraloffy. — About forty years ago, Lord Mac- donald, principal heritor of the parish, attempted to work a coal mine, in two different parts of the parish. He was at the expense of getting a number of hands from the low country, experienced colliers ; but, after repeated trials, from the smallness of the vein, and the great difiiculty of working it, imbedded as it was under high 222 INVERNKSS-SHIRE. rocks and below high-water mark, it was ultimately discovered that the quantity of coal procured would pay but a small propor- tion of the expense incurred. The work was then abandoned, and has never since been resumed. In different parts of the parish, but more especially in the island of Rasay, there is a species of granite, which, though not of equal transparency with that of Aberdeen, is still of a very valuable quality. It is of a very hard consistency, and most useful, as mill-stones are made of it, which are most suitable for grinding oats and barley ; and with these, all the mills in the island and in the adjacent parishes in the mainland are supplied. They are found in large thick blocks be^ low high-water mark, lying horizontally ; and after they are form^ ed and dressed by a mason, they are sold at from L. 9 to L. 12 Sterling per pair, according to size and quality. On both sides of the harbour of Portree, there are immense high and almost per- pendicular rocks, formed of freestone, which, though not of the very best quality, being rather soft, is used in building, and serves as guards for chimney-heads and comer-stones. But in the island of Rasay, there is a freestone of the best quality and in the greatest abundance. Some years isigo, it was made use of in building a most elegant house by the late proprie- tor of that estate. In the district of Sconcer, there is an inex* haustible quantity of limestone. Both limestone and freestone are covered with different kinds of deposits, s^uch as sand, loam, clay» but more frequently with gravel. The quality of soil most common in this parish is gravelly, though^ not unfrequently, sheets of deep moss are interspersed between the hills. The soil in every part of the parish is wet and spouty. Even in places which appear dry, springs of the finest water are found to rise, and consequently on the low grounds the grass is intermixed with watery plants and herbs, and these scarce furnish any food for animals. They wither and decay very early in the season. Zoology. — With the exception of some deer in Lord Macdonald^s deer forest at Sconcer, there are no animals in this, but such as are common to all other Highland parishes. The breed of cattle is small but hardy ; and, for the most part, they lie out, exposed to the inclemency of the weather, at all seasons of the year. They are scantily fed in winter with straw, and, consequently, in the months of March and April, they are low in condition, and very much emaciated. As soon, however, as the moss grass, the kind ^ ISLAND OF SKYE — POKTBEE. 22S of pasture most common in the parish, comes on in the spring of the year, they acquire strength, agility, and condition. They are much looked after, and in high estimation with deal- ers in cattle from the southern parts of the empire ; and when pastured for any length of time in the south of Scotland or Eng- land, they grow to a much larger size, and their flesh is found to be superior in point of taste and flavour. The sheep in the pa- rish, till within the last twenty or thirty years, was the old High- land breed, verj* small in size ; but the fineness of their wool ap- proached, or was nearly equal to that of the Cheviot sheep, and the quality of their flesh was far superior. The old native sheep of this parish are now crossed with the black-faced sheep of the south country, and have degenerated much from the original stock, both in regard to flesh and wool, though they have certainly improved much in size. The horses possessed by the small te- nants are very small, but hardy ; easily fed ; and never housed in winter. They are served with little hand-feeding in the fields, and still they maintain their condition, so as to be able to work in the spring season of the year. This facility in feeding and supporting the small breed of horses, induces the small tenants and cottars, in some instances, to keep too many of them, and thereby greatly to injure their other and more valuable stocks. As to hogs and goats, of the former there are very few in the pa- rish ; and Liord Macdonald has, for many years pa<»t, prohibited the latter to be kept on his property, as they were considered by him highly injurious to wood plantations. The rivers lakes, and sea coast all round the parish, abound with various kinds of fishes, and all of the most delicious and nutritive qualities. In the chan- nel which separates Rasay from the. main body of the parish, and on all sides of the Island of Rasay, cod, ling, lythe, skate, had- docks, whitings, cuddies, flounders, and herrings abound. In the rivers and estuaries, there is salmon. Salmon does not go up the rivers in this parish, till late in the month of July ; and even then they show every disposition to return in a short time, and before the channel of the rivers dries up. They seem also to anticipate a change from dry to rainy weather, as, a short time previous to rain, they are- seen in numbers at the entries of rivets, and the moment rain comes on, and a sufficient depth of water to aflbrd them a passage, they rush up with the greatest rapidity ; but at this period, salmon show a great discernment in perceiving the 224 INVERNESS- SHIRE. approach of dry weather, when they run back into the sea with equal care and dispatch. It appears to be the opinion of Bshermen, that saUnon do not remain in rivers, though they occasionally ascend till they b^in to spawn in the latter end of the month of September. When they commence this operation, they continue at all hazards, disregarding every danger in deep pools of water in the rivers, till the work is completed in the month of December ; and then they are so much emaciated and enfeebled, that they are per- ceived to move slowly and with much difficulty in the water, and they never recover their condition till they return to the sea in the month of December, some sooner and spme later. Botany. — There are in this parish some herbs that are bene* ficially employed in curing diseases, such as burdock, tussilago, (Filius ante patrem). This last is usefully employed in cases of cough, asthma, and consumption. In the Island of Rasay, as well as about the village of Portree, there are small plantations of wood in a very thriving condition ; indeed, more rapid growth cannot be seen in any part of the low country of Scotland* The plantations consist of Scotch fir, larch^ birch, ash, oak, alder, and some others. Larch is the kind most suitable to the soil, as it appears to thrive better than any of the other kinds of wood. The greater part of these plantations are only a few years old, and therefore the trees cannot be of any great size. At Rasay» however, and near the mansion-house, there are old trees of con- siderable size, such as are seen in the vicinity of towns, castles, and in forests, either in the Highlands, or in the low country of Scotland. And it appears to be a matter which admits of no doubt, that, in a place such as this parish, where there are so many localities favourable to the growth of timber, no improve- ment whatever could be more profitable, or of greater advantage both to proprietors and tenants, than the planting of wood. This, however, under existing circumstances, is a matter more to be wished for than expected. II. — CivcL History. Land-owners. — The Right Honourable Lord Macdonald and Macleod of Rasay, are the only land-^owners in the parish. Parochial Register. — A parish register of births and marriages was commenced in the year 1800, but discontinued six years ISLAND OF SRYE — POUTREE. 225 thereafter. It was resumed five years from that date. From a va- riety of causes which could not be prevented, it has hitherto beeu irregularly kept. Mantion^Houie. — In Rasay, there is a very splendid modem house, of the most elegant architecture, — built by the late proprie- tor. The front of the house has a very superb appearance, and is oonstructed of freestone found in the place. There is also a large and commodious church in the village of Portree, which was erected about sixteen years ago, and is now in excellent repair. IIL— PoPULATIOr?. In th^ absence of all written record, our information regarding the ancient state of the population must .be limited, and depend on vague and uncertain tradition. From this source, however, it appears that the people were very thinly spread over the whole ex- tent of the parish ; and though they lived in a rude, and almost savage state, they seldom suffered under the pressure of famine or destitution. Situate in localities remote from one another, each family had a sufficient extent of land to support a number of sheep and cattle. At the period to which we allude, the parish abounded with game of all sorts. In the rivers and estuaries, there was sal- mon in abundance ; and, being free from the restraints of the present game laws, the people may be said to have had a sufficiency of flesh, fish, milk, and venison. They cultivated small portions of the best part of the land, which yielded them some meaL It is, therefore, certain, that in old times, the people were more abundantly supplied with the necessaries and comforts of life than they are at present. In Uie year 181 1 the amount of population was 2729 1821 . . 3174 1831 - - a441 By an enumeration since taken, • 4000 This number is diminished by from 500 to 600 souls, who emigrated to North America in the course of this and last sum- mer. The immense increase that has taken place in the number of the people, may be ascribed to the introduction of vaccine ino- culation — the subdivision of lands among the crofter-tenants, by which two or three families occupy one lot, and sometimes one house. Character of the People. — They are powerfully under the influ* ence of moral principle, so much so, indeed, that heinous crimes are seldom or ever seen or heard of among them. They are attach- 226 fNVKRNESSSHIRE* ed to their superiors — obedient to the laws — dutiful and loyal tc their sovereign — charitable to the poor, and hospitable to strangers. They are all of the Established Church of Scotland, and Brmly attached to her constitution, worship, and doctrine. So inviolable is their attachment, that lately some of them, hearing of the dis- putes which at this moment unfortunately disturb and agitate our venerable Church, and dreading that these arose from the ascen- dency and hostility of Roman Catholic or other sectarians, were beard solemnly to declare in presence of the writer of these pages, that sooner than the church of their fathers should suffer violence or change, and far less annihilation, they would suffer their heads to be cut off. But with all their admirable mental quali6cations, they labour under the greatest poverty, which never fails to carry along with it many disadvantages and many evils. And certainly, the want of cleanliness is not the least of these. From the great scarcity of timber, there being none 6t for use growing in the place, and the utter inability of the people to purchase and import wood, they are much at a loss for the necessary accommodations in regard to dwelling and other houses. The poor tenants are almost invariably under the necessity of having their cattle under the same roof with themselves without partition, without division, and without a chimney ; their houses, therefore, are smoky and filthy in the extreme; and, having little either of night or day clothing, and their children nearly approach- ing to absolute nakedness, they are fully as much without cleanli- ness in their persons as they are in their houses. No people on earth live on more simple or scanty diet, than those in this parish. The greater number of them subsist on potatoes of the worst kind, sometimes with, but oftener without fish. The language generally spoken in the parish is Gaelic From the facility of intercourse with the low country, by means of steam- navigation and Parliamentary roads, the people have acquired a taste for the English language, and are desirous to learn it. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — A complete survey of the whole parish has never been made, and consequently the number of imperial standard acres in cultivation cannot with accuracy be ascertained ; indeed the extent of arable land, compared to that of pasture or moorland, is so very inconsiderable, that it appears a matter of little or no importance whether it be ascertained with mathematical precision. ISLAND OF SKYE — PORTREE. 227 And scarce, very scarce, indeed, as arable land is, no speculation whatever could be more precarious and less pro6table than the conversion of either moor or pasture into arable land. The ex- pense attending such an operation would far exceed any advantage that could reasonably be expected from such a process. The soil, naturally barren and unproductive, is everywhere interspersed with springs and spouts of water, and to drain it to any extent would be an endless work. Even where draining was resorted to in a pretty regular and systematic manner, and when the land was allowed to remain for any length of time out of culture, it would, in the course of a few years, revert to its original raw, sour, and unproductive fitate, and all the expense incurred would be irredeemably lost ; and being kept in cultivation, the produce would fall far short of compensation for the time, trouble, and expense necessarily and unavoidably employed. The small patches of land cultivated by the cottar-tenants, though they are at some pains to improve them, often yield no more than two returns. Even on the supposition that a person would succeed, with much expense and labour, upon an improved system, to improve the lands in this parish, by drains, enclosures, and all other plans successfully pursued in the south country for bringing it into cultivation, — after all this, he would ul- timately be disappointed by the climate. It is very rare, indeed, that in this parish there is a favourable seed-time, and in harvest, heavy rains and strong gales of wind prevail, by which the corn crops are either lodged or shaken, and thus all the hopes of the husbandman are in a great measure frustrated. Top-dressing, which in other quarters is found a profitable improvement either for pasture or natural hay, would not pay on the sterile soil of the parish of Portree. As neither the lands nor the climate in this parish are suitable for agricultural purposes, so neither is the pas- ture land under the best arrangement. There is a great extent of hill grazing which is occupied as a common, not only by the small tenants to whose farms that common is attached, and by whom rent is paid for it, but also by cattle-dealers, and likewise by persons from every part of the island indiscriminately, who send cattle and horses to graze there in the summer months. This mode of tenure is productive of many disadvantages and evils ; it occasions disputes and quarrels among the immediate neighbours in possession ; it excites in their minds envy, anger, and even ma- lice one to another. It is highly injurious to the interest of the 228 INVERNESS-SHIRE. tenants, and equally prejudicial to that of the landlord ; it encou- rages and protects sheep-stealing ; and it is troublesome in the ex- treme to the neighbours in its immediate vicinity. The diffiQuU ties which occur in other parts of the country for dividing a com- mon in which different proprietors have an interest, some more and some less, and which require the interposition of the Supreme Court for allocating to each his due proportion, are not applicable to that here alluded to. It is altogether the property of one land- lord, and he might at once attach it to any farm he chose, or as best suited his interest. And, notwithstanding the &cility for divid- ing this common, and the many disadvantages and evils resulting from its undivided state, it has been continued undivided from one ge- neration to another, from time immemorial, till this very moment Wood — In this parish there is no natural wood growing, with the exception of a small quantity in the Island of Rasay, and even this was almost annihilated in the years 1836 and 1887; those years of memorable destitution, when the people, from the wet- ness of the season, were unable to secure their peats, and the wood was made use of as fuel. There is, however, a little still re- maining, which is of no other use than for building small houses for the poor people. There is a considerable extent in Rasay of planted wood, and about'a third of that extent around the village of Portree. The trees are, fir, ash, oak, birch, mountain-ash ; they are under good management as to thinning, pruning, and they ap- pear to be in a thriving state. Indeed, from all that can be seen, a more profitable improvement of land in this parish cannot, be aclopted than planting wood in certain favourable situations. Rent. — The arable and pasture lands are let together ; the rent of the former, therefore, per acre, cannot be ascertained. For every sheep clipped, whether young or old, the grazier pays at the rate of 4s. each per annum ; and for every cow L. 2 Sterling ; in both cases the expense of management is included. Wages. — The rate of payment to men-servants employed in agricultural pursuits is from L. 5 to L. 10 Sterling per annum, and to female-servants from L. 3 to L. 4 Sterling for the same period, together with bed, board, and washing. A mason and house-carpenter receive at the rate of from 2s. 6d. to Ss. per day. But there is so little mechanical work carried on in the parish, that persons bred to these occupations are often, and for a great ISLAND OP SKYE — PORTREE. 229 part of the year, without employment, so that a tradesman is not at the end of the year in possession of more comfort, or in better circumstances, than a common labourer. Live-stocks — The greatest attention is now paid to the improve- ment of both cattle and sheep, and the labours of the great Highland and Agricultural Society in Scotland, together with the local associations formed, after the constitution of that society, and adopt- ing its plans, are most instrumental in accomplishing this desirable purpose. The prizes annually awarded by those to meritorious and successful rearers, — the easy intercourse by means of Parliamentary and district roads, together with the facility of communication by steam navigation with other parts of the country, where both skill and capital are employed in the rearing and improvement of live- stock, — contribute their share in this parish to produce the same beneficial effect. Husbandry, — The kind of husbandry prevalent in this parish, is performed with the crooked spade ; an instrument most awkward in appearance and operation, but none is better fitted for the land. For here, the land is for the most part hanging on steep braes and precipices, and encumbered with rocks and ponderous stones. In these circumstances, it is evident that the plough coulc| never be employed, and the straight spade, which is made use of in other parts of the Highlands, is far more fatiguing to the workman, and, with the same exertion, would not perform half the work in the same period of time. But the most painful of all the operations is the finishing part After the ground is turned up with the crooked spade, and the seed sown, a male, or more frequently* a female, takes a kind of hand-harrow, and with this the person works with both hands backward and forward, up and down, till the whole surface is made quite smooth, and all the hollows ren- dered completely level : or otherwise, a person gets a small har- row made of light wood, to which he fixes a rope, which he takes in his hand, and over his shoulder or round his breast, and, by dragging it after him, he harrows and finishes his land. This mode of working is peculiar to those who have small divisions of land, and cannot keep horses ; but these are by far the greater number. It is quite obvious that such tenants as these can never improve land. On the^ contrary, they are constantly in arrears to the proprietors, and frequently to the amount of two and some- times three years rent The poverty of the people is an insur- 230 INVELINKSS-SHIRE. mountable obstacle in the way of any rural improvement To per- sons in such low circumstances a lease would be of no advantagef and as little would the proprietors be disposed to grant them one. In the whole parish, there is only one farm held on lease. Fisheries^ — There is a kind of stake salmon-Bshing in the pa- rish. The tenant is a south countryman, in company with some others. They hold the whole fishing on Lord Macdonald's pro- perty. The fish is cured in the village of Portree, and is sent off by steam for Glasgow, and sometimes thence for London. They pay a certain small rent for the whole fishing of five parishes. One of those stations is relinquished, as not paying the expense. The station in this parish is the next to that in point of success, and con- sequently cannot be productive to any profitable extent. There is no separate rent exigible for the fishing of it.^ The herring fishing, some years ago, was carried on here with considerable 8\|c- cess. In a fine evening in the month of July or August, when all the boats belonging to this parish, together with those belonging to the adjacent parishes of Glenelg, Lochalsh, Lochcarron, Ap- plecross, Gairloch, and Lochbroom, and with them boats belong- ing to vessels from fifty to seventy sails in number, appeared in the sound of Rasay, — a most delightful scene was exhibited. But the most agreeable and the most useful of all exhibitions was their return to the harbour next day, deeply laden with the rich- est and most delicious herrings. It is a matter deeply to be re- gretted, that the herring .fishing in this quarter has been much on the decline for several years pastj so much so, that failure in this branch of industry, together with other causes operating in- juriously, produced the ever-memorable destitution of the years J 836 and 1837. And were it not for the seasonable relief afford- ed by public contributions in every part of the British empire, both at home and abroad, the great body of the lower order of the community would have been swept off by the most appalling star- vation. Indeed, there is reason to fear that the herring-fishing will altogether disappear on the coast of this parish. This sta- tion was never so productive in herrings as were once Lochmad- dy in North Uist, Lochrog in Lewis, several arms of the sea in South Uist, and on the west side of the Isle of Skye ; and now in all these different localities, there is no fishing of any consequence. And why may not that happen also on the coast of this parish ? And should that unfortunately be the case, what will become ISLAND OF SKYE — FORTBEE. 23t of its immensely redundant/population, already sunk in the low- est degradation of misery and poverty ? This is a matter high- ly deserving the most serious attention and consideration of all those having influence and power ; and it cannot fail to af- ford the highest satisfaction to every well-regulated mind, to see the efforts now made by noblemen, proprietors, and others connected with the HigMands of Scotland, for transferring the poor and labouring classes of the community in these districts to the British colonies in North America, and more especially to Ca- nada. This appears to be the most eligible resort to the poor expatriated Highlander, in order to escape from his misery, to ac- quire comfort and independence, and where he will find employ- ment congenial to his habits and pursuits at home. The highest praise is due to Lord Macdonald for his liberality in this beneficent and patriotic enterprise, — he having this and last year expended large sums of money in conveying the poor people on his proper- ty (tenants or not tenants) to North America. And it is a matter devoutly to be wished, that other landed proprietors would follow his beneficent example, as well as the Legislature of the country, and thus provide comfortably for a noble race of men, — strengthen the hands of the local government in the American colonies, — and for ever put an end to disaffection to the state in that quarter. V. — Parochial Economy. ^ Markets, — The village of Portree is the only place in the pa- rish in which markets are held for the sale of black-cattle. The population is nearly 300, including those in its immediate vicinity. There are several shop-keepers in the place who import meal and other commodities for the use of the country people. To the village of Portree there is a steam*boat plying from Glasgow once a-week, with a short cessation in the winter season. An excel- lent road has been constructed from one extremity of the parish to another, under the direction of the Parliamentary Commission- ers for building bridges and making roads in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. This road is kept in repair by an assessment on the heritors of the county of Inverness. In the village there is a post-office, to which there is a post three times a week. Than the harbour of Portree there can hardly be a better. It is spacious enough to contain several hundred sail* It is shelter- ed on all sides, and from every wind that blows. From the very 232 INVERNESS-SHIRE. high lands with which it is surrounded, the entry can very easily be found in the darkest night. The holding ground is of deep clay, and so firm and strong that it is very seldom, indeed, that a vessel is driven ashore, — and even should that unfortunately hap- pen, if she escapes from two or three rocky points, she will only be cast on a clayey or sandy bank. It is a good outlet for any quarter of the globe. At the entry, there is a breakwater formed by the hand of nature, which makes it narrow, but, at the same time, the water is very deep and the rock perpendicular at the edge. There are other harbours in the parish, but none to be compared to that of Portree. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated in the vil* lage of Portree, at a distance of about two miles from the northern, and fifteen from the southern extremity of the parish, and conse- quently not only not convenient, but altogether inaccessible to the great body of the people. It was built about sixteen years ago, and is in an excellent state of repair. It will accommodate about 800 sitterF, and no payment is exacted from any of them. The manse was built about thirty years ago, and, as soon as any thing is wanted in the way of repair, it is immediately supplied by the liberal heritors of the parish, on the application of the incum- bent. The glebe is sufficiently extensive, and, for the most part, consists of moss and hill pasture. It is, however, very susceptible of improvement In its present state, it is worth L.20 Sterling per annum. In the course of a few years,]]and in the possession of a person able and willing to improve, it may be made doubly valuable. The amount of stipend is the minimum, — L.150 Ster- ling, payable partly by the heritors, and partly by the Grovern- ment. There is no Government church, but there is a missionary minister in the parish, on the establishment of the Committee of the General Assembly for promoting the knowledge of Christianity in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. His salary is paid by the Committee from the bounty annually allowed by the Crown for the reformation of the Highlands and Islands. There are no sectarians of any description in the parish. The attendance at the difierent preaching stations in the pa- rish is from 300 to 400 souls, but frequently less in bad weather, when the people have a great distance to travel. The number of communicants in the parish, of late years, has greatly diminished, from a kind of delusion among the people. They seem now, how- ISLAND OF SKYE — POUTREE. 233 ever, to come to a better understanding, and, from present appear- ances, there is reason to believe that the number of communicants will soon be considerably increased. Educatioru — In ibis parish, there are two parochial schools, one by a society in Glasgow, and two Gaelic schools. In the paro- chial school situated in the village, English reading, writing, English grammar, arithmetic, book-keeping, geography, Latin, and the elements of Greek, &c are taught. In the branch paro- chial school in Rasay, the elementary branches are only taught, and the same is the case in the Glasgow Society school. The pa- rochial teachers have all the accommodations to which they are by law entitled. The parochial school salary is the maximum, but the school- fees are only nominal. The people are so poor that they can scarcely afford to pay any fees ; and if the teacher insists on his right to receive fees from the scholars, their parents threaten to withdraw, and, in some instances, do actually withdraw their children from the school. As to the ex^iense of education in these schoolst there are no pupils in attendance from distant quarters. It is only the children in the immediate vicinity of the school that attend, and all the charges to which they are liable are the small sums ex- pended in buying books, and the trifle of school-fees which they occasionally pay. This is an expense to which they with reluc- tance subject themselves, as they are not by any means so desirous as could be wished to have their children educated. The blessing of education having been for the most part denied themselves, by their predecessofs, they are not particularly anxious to bestow it on their successors. There are two districts in this parish so remote, that they are inaccessible to the parochial and all other schools. These are the districts of Glenmore and the Braes. In the former of these places, 50 scholars might attend a school, and in the latter, from 60 to 100, under a well-educated and systematic teacher. In both these localities, a subscription school has been taught occasionally, but the teachers were invariably so little qua- lified to discharge the duties of their office, and the remuneration fDr their labours so very inadequate, that little progress has hitherto been made in promoting the important object of education, and, consequently, many instances of gross immorality occur among the people. At the same time, it is a matter of common observation, that profane swearing, intemperance, drunkenness, and the dese- INVBRNESS. Q 234 INVERNESS-SHIRE . cration of the Sabbath, are not so common as they were twenty or thirty years ago. Pool* and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor receiving aid is 89, and they receive from 2s. to 15s. each, and that only once a-year. ' The fund in aid of the poor arises from the in- terest of money, from the collection in the church, from occa- sional gratuities and benefactions by individuals, and from small sums exacted as fines from delinquents. The number of the poor has been on the increase annually, for Some years past They are sup- ported not so much from parochial funds or contributions, as they are by the charity and benevolence of their neighbours. The poorest of the people go about in the parish, and they are fed, and, in some instances clad, by the liberality of the inhabitants. It is only the most dire necessity that could ever induce the people to submit to the degradation of public begging; and nothing is so repugnant to their minds as to have their names inserted in the poor-tist of the i>ari$h. /Vi^»f««, — There is one jail in the parish, and it has been occu- pioil for tho last year by sixteen offenders, eleven for riotous con- duot« four for housebreaking and theft, and one for forgery. The y\\\ huH biHMi most insecure for some time past, and this has been l\illv evinced by the circumstance, that some prisoners have broken ihrtkugh it and made their escape. And certainly it is no matter uf surprise, that every possible effort should be made by them for that purpose, when the bad treatment to which they are subjected is taken into consideration. Into the jail they are thrown without bed, without bedding, without fire, and with but a small allowance for their subsistence. By the humanity, however, and charity of some benevolent persons in the neighbourhood, these privations have been partly alleviated, if not removed. The jail has a keeper, who has a certain small allowance made to him annually for his trouble by the county of Inverness. And the general superintendence is committed to the sheriff-substitute of the district of Skye, who holds his courts in the court room of the jail. Fairs. — There are three fairs held in the parish, one in the month of May, one in the month of July, and one in the month of November. The two former for the sale of black-cattle, and the latter for hii-ing servants, and for transacting other country busi- ness. Inns. — For the accommodation of persons who attend these ISLAND OF SKYE — PORTREE. 535 fairs, as well as travellers and others, there is an excellent public- house in the village of Portree. There is another public-house in the district of Sconcer. Both these inns are kept by very re- spectable individuals, and, in so far as the writer has been able to learn, they have no pernicious effects on public morals. PueL — The fuel chiefly used in this parish is peat Every family may cut as much out of a peat bank as will serve them throughout the year. This they do in the commencement of the dry weather, in the months of April or May. And, as this operation is performed by the people at a time when they would otherwise be idle, it may be said to cost them no money. Miscellaneous Observations. On the surface of the parish, the greatest change has been produced by the Parliamentary and other district roads throughout the parish. In the architectural department, some very important variations have taken place. Since the date of the old Statistical Ac- count the elegant house of Rasay, the house occupied by Lord Mac- donald's chamberlain at Portree, the bank-house built by the National Bank of Scotland, the jail, and several other houses erected in the village by Lord Macdonald and other individuals, together with the church and manse, are all constructed. The parish is rather a pastoral than an agricultural district. To produce the greatest advantage, therefore, to proprietor and te- nants, it should be cut into sizable farms, with distinct boundaries to each, and of sufficient extent to support a family. These farms should be let on leases of from fifteen to twenty years endurance, and given to persons who have a sufficient capital to stock, and skill to manage them. But with the present immense population, in a place without commerce, without manufactures, without agriculture, and without any kind of permanent employ- ment for the people, no system that can be adopted will render them comfortable. To accommodate the people, the proprietors have tried many experiments. Previous to the year 1811, almost all the farms on Lord Macdonald's property in this parish were held in common, or, as it is termed, on runrig. About that period, finding that the people were rapidly increasing in number, and a great demand among them for land, with few exceptions, all the farms in pos- session of small tenants were cut into lots or crofts, and each of these was let to a family. In the course of a few years, a tenant 236 INVERNESS-SHIRE. on a lot had a son, who, in opposition to every advice that could be given him, by parents, relatives, and friends, would, whether right or wrong, be married. To provide for this son, his wife, and his family, there was no other alternative than to give him a share of the lot. The same individual lotter has a daughter, to whom some young man becomes attached ; marriage is proposed and agreed upon ; but in the matrimonial contract, it is express- ly stipulated, that this new ally of the family shall have an esta- blishment on the lot. Thus on one portion of land, too small for the support of the original, there are now three families. It is easily seen that the si- tuation of these must be poor in the extreme. The proprietors show every kindness and indulgence. Their rents are not rigidly exacted at a term. There are instances of tenants being allowed to remain in arrear, some two, some three, and some even four years. It is, however, perfectly evident that no liberality on the part of proprietors can render the present immense surplus population in any measure comfortable. And there is, humanly speaking, no other way to provide for them than by emigration ; though cer- tainly, it would be for ever a matter of deep regret, that so noble a race of men should be under the necessity of leaving their native land and seeking an asylum on a foreign shore. But, as they are unable to effect this by any means within their own reach, they should be conveyed to any British settlement which may be thought eligible — all the expense defrayed, and lands provided for them in their adopted settlement, by the Government of the country. January 1841. ISLAND OF SKYE. PARISH OF KILMUIR. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENEL6. THE REV. ROBERT MACGREGOR, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Kilmuir is the most northern parish in the island of Skye. The name signifies the " Church of Mary," and is de- rived from the Gaelic words Ci//, a chapel, or burying-ground, and Muire, Mary. The parish of old was frequently desig- nated St Mary's, as may be seen in Martin's History of the Isles, and in other ancient documents. Although the whole civil parish is now comprehended under the name Kilmuir, yet in former times only a small district of it went under that denomina- tion, viz. that in which the parish church was formerly built. The parish originally consisted of a variety of Ci7&, which were dedi- cated to their respective tutelary saints, such as Kileana, Kilmar- tin, Kilmorie, Kildorais, Kilmaluag, Kilvaxter, Kilbride, &c. to each of which was attached a portion or district of the parish. Boundaries. — Kilmuir being a section of the northern end of Skye, is bounded for the most part by sea, viz. on the north, by the channel which intervenes between Skye and the islands of Lewis and Harris, commonly called the Minsh ; on the east by the sound of Gairloch ; on the south, by the parish of Snizort ; and on the west, partly by the Minsh, and partly by Loch Snizort The dimensions of the parish vary considerably, and its almost semicircular form is rendered very irregular by a variety of small indentations and promontories. The extreme points of it may be distant in a straight line about 16 English miles ; its breadth, taken at right angles, varies from 6 to 10 miles ; and it is supposed to contain about 50 square miles. The centre of the parish is in la- titude 57'' 34' north, and in longitude 6° 15' west. * Drawn up by Mr Alciander Macgrcgor, A. M. licentiate of the Church of Scotland, and son of the incumbent. 238 INVEUNESS-SHIRE. Topographical Appearances.-^liWvanxr is in a manner bisected by the extremity of a range of hills, which passes through it and the ad- jacent parishes of Snizortand Portree. The highest may be com- puted to be about IfiOO feet above the level of the sea. There is a variety of small hills, which are principally green, forming in some parts little glens through which small rivulets run to the sea; in other parts, they cause the formation of little lakes, of which there are many in the parish. These little hills are, also, in some places totally di« vided from the rest of the mountains, and, from their isolated and conical appearance, there are to be found here and there truly pictu- resque scenes. There is one hill in particular, to the top of which the access is easy by a gentle acclivity, while it is found abruptly to terminate in a huge perpendicular precipice about 600 feet high, overhanging a dark circular lake of great depth. This rock affords a secure nestling-place to eagles and other birds of prey. One scene in this parish — that of Quiraing — must be particu- lurly noticed. This remarkable formation of nature consists of a secluded piece of level and fertile ground, which is concealed in the face of an almost inaccessible precipice. The hill in which it is situated, is about 1000 feet in height, and slopes by a steep de- clivity towards the west ; but towards the north-east, it presents a face of rugged precipices, much variegated by being here and there composed of huge basaltic columns, or massy fragments of fluted rocks. In other parts, large spaces, formed into concave sections, present themselves to the view, and have a majestic ap« |)earance, from being ribbed transversely either by small fissures, or protuberant seams, over which a little rivulet drizzles in moist seasons of the year. In the face of this huge precipice, then, Quiraing is enshrined, and entirely hidden from the view of the visitor. This interesting spot consists of a green plot of ground, formed into an oblong platform of sufficient extent to contain six or seven regiments of soldiers. It is studded all round with mas- sive columns of rock, rising up in lofty peaks, by the intervention of deep chasms, which are for the most part inaccessible. On ap- proaching the great inlet to the eagerly looked-fbr platform, the passage is much obtruded by heaps of stone and rubbish, which have been washed down from the crevices by the gradual waste of successive ages. When these obstacles are overcome, the visitor finds himself at the entrance of a steep passage, which would seem to lead to the top of the hill. To the right of this entrance ISLAND OP 8KYE — KILMUIR. 239 stands an isolated pyramid of rock, called the Needle. By considerable exertion the tourist gains the top of the pass, and be- holds with indescribable wonder the scene which opens to his view ! Instead of seeing, as he would expect, some narrow cave, he beholds a spacious opening before him, in the centre of which stands the above-mentioned platform. By descending a short dis- tance, and threading his way by a small path, he is instantly led to the beautiful green plain which it was all along his object to at- tain. He now feels utterly bewildered, and quite at a loss what to examine first, or to admire most ! He beholds the rocks frown- ing aloft, and the rugged cliffs ranging themselves in circles around him. Rocky pyramids, like a bulwark, encompass the fairy plain on which he stands. All is felt to be a dreary solitude ; yet there is a pleasing beauty in the silent repose. The golden eagle is seen soaring aloft in the blue firmament. A panoramic view of the distant sea and district below is visible, only in detached frag- ments, through the rugged clefts and chasms between the sur- rounding pyramids. The rocks which compose these huge co- lumns are so streaked and variegated, that the visitor's imagination cannot fail to delineate hundreds of grotesque figures, of the wildest description, on their surface. The nature of the day on which this interesting place is visited has a great effect upon its appearance. It is so studded and encompassed with columns and pinnacles, of all heights, sizes, and figures, that their flickering shadows, on a sun- shine day, have an enchanting effect on all who behold them I Light and shade are then so uncommonly divided, and so con- stantly changing positions, that the place, in consequence, is greatly enhanced in beauty. But -ehould a dense mist envelope the spot, as is frequently the case, the scene is greatly changed. Instead of being lively and enchanting, a night-like gloom falls over it, like a shroud of darkness ! The thick mist slowly floating through the pyramids, and concealing their rugged pinnacles from the view, gives a sombre appearance to the whole ! The visitor's imagination will lead him to think that the gloomy pyramids be- fore him bind earth and Heaven together ! He cannot but ad- mire ; yet, at the same time, he is filled with a sort of awe, which causes him to ascribe the niarvellous works which lie shrouded be. fore him, to the wonderful doings of that Omnipotent Being who created all things ! The cultivated part of the parish is a kind of circular belt along its shores, about two miles of average breadth. It is naturally di- 240 INYRRNBSS-SHIRE, vided into three districts, that of Kilmuir, of Kilmaluag, and of Steinscholl or East-side. The surface of each of these districts is almost wholly seen at one view from either extremity. The coast is bold, high, and rocky. Its extent, owing to the vast num- ber of small bays and headlands, is supposed to be no less than forty miles. In many places, the land is hemmed in by tracks of lofty and perpendicular precipices, most regularly formed into large parallel, square, round, and triangular pillars of basalt. There are varieties of small caves to be found concealed among these columns. In one place, there is a little spar-cave; and in another, there is one known by the name of Udmh an dir^ — " the cave of the gold," respecting which several traditions are afloat among the natives. None of these caves, however, is pos- sessed of peculiarities worthy of any lengthened observations. Headlands, — The principal headlands are, Rutha-chuirn-leith, Rutha Bhorniskittaig, Rutha-hunish, Rutha-bheannachain, Rutba- ghara-fada, and Rutha-nam-braithrean. The principal bays or lochs are those of Cammusmore, Duntulm, Kilmaluag, and Al- tivaig or Staffin, none of which afford a safe anchorage, with the exception of Duntulm. Islands. — The principal islands are, lasgairor Yesker, Fladda- chuain, Tulm, Trodda, Altivaig, and Fladda. Of these Trodda is tho most extensive and valuable. With the exception of Flad- da-chuain, tho second largest of the group, none of them possess any remarkable peculiarities. They are all uninhabited, being uieroly rented for grazing by tacksmen, who look upon them as useful appendages to their ikrms. Fladda-chuain is about six miles from the nearest part of Skye, and is about three-fourths of a mile in length, and three hundred yards in average breadth. Tho quality of its grass is remarkably fine, and perhaps superior to any in the parish for pasturing a few sheep. It is surrounded by four lesser islands, which are capable of rearing only two or three sheep a piece. It is a remarkable feet, that in this little island, which is so far from any other land, and situated in the midst of a very salt, deep, and rapid channel, there are two or three fresh water springs. In former ages, it was inhabited by a family or two, who had a considerable portion of it under cultiva- tion. Although so remote and distant from the shore, it was an- ciently the site of a Druidical place of worship, which will be af- terwards mentioned. It is a curious phenomenon, well worthy the attention of tho naturalist, that such animals as the toad. ISLAND OF SKYK KILMUIB. 241 firog, mouse, rat, snail, &c. can have no existence in it, although all the other islands of the parish abound with them. It is credi- tably reported, that mice have been carefully carried thither several times for experiment, but upon landing them that they instantly died.. Names of Hamlets^ Sfc^ — In this and in most other parishes of the Hebrides the names of hamlets, hills, bays, promontories, &c« are evidently, for the most part, of Scandinavian origin. In some cases, however, Gaelic roots with Scandinavian terminations, and vice versa, are to be met with. It is a remarkable fact, that the names given to certain localities by the natives of a foreign land, have been retained for so many ages and generations, as is the case here and elsewhere. When the prevalence of Scandinavian names is taken into consideration, and the great disproportion which they bear to those of Celtic origin, it will appear evident, that the number, power, and influence of the aboriginal popu- lation was but small in comparison with that of the Norwe- gian invaders. Most promontories end with the termination '* nish," which must be the same with the French " nez," the Latin *^ nasus," the English ^* nose," the Gaelic ^^ innis," an island or promontory, all meaning the projecting feature. We have therefore Hunish, Vaternish, Skernish, &c In other parts of Scotland, such places have the termination ^* uess," as Strom- ness, Tarbetness, Buchanness, &c. The barony of Troternish seems evidently to derive its name from Trodda, a sms^^U island which is situated near the northern point of it, and the termination " nish," — that is Trodda-ni^A, now pronounced Troternish, the point or territory of Trodda. A great variety of places terminate in *' host," as Orbost, Libost, Skeabost, Carbobt, &c. ; so do a number in " burg," as Resaburg, Scuddeburg, &c. Many ham- lets end with ** garry," as Flodigarry, Osmagarry, &c; many with " latter," as Hunglatter, Seoglatter, &c. ; many with " shad- der," as Elishadder, Marishadder, &c. ; many with ** sta" and ^* stadt," as Shulista, Delista, Herbusta, Monkstadt, Brunistadt, &c. As has been already observed, many places derive their appellations from saint^ such as the followers of St Columba, and others ; but these, although frequently much corrupted, are pure- ly of Celtic origin. It is most remarkable, that no trace or vo- cable of the Scandinavian language is found, in any shape, in the language of the country, except names of hamlets and other loca- lities. The language of the inhabitants is purely Celtic. Meteorology, — As the parish is so much encompassed by sea. 24-i INVERNESS-SHIRE. the temperature of the atmosphere, although exceedingly variable, seldom descends very low. No meteorological tables have been kept in the parish, whereby the changes of temperature and varia* tions of climate might be stated with accuracy ; yet, it may be as- serted, generally, that the climate is very moist, rainy, and bois- terous. The mercury in the thermometer seldom falls below 25, or rises (with the exception, perhaps, of a few days in summer,) above 76° of Fahrenheit The barometer, however, indicates frequent and sudden changes in the pressure of the atmosphere. The mercury, which generally stands at or near 29^% has often been observed to rise or fall more than half an inch in the course of a day. The cold of winter is less intense, and the heat of summer less oppressive than in most other parts of the kingdom. Torrents of rain fall in all seasons of the year, and the moisture which descends in the Highlands of Scotland, in the form of snow, descends here, for the most part, in sleet and rain. For many years back, snow seldom lay on the ground above a day or two ; whereas, in former periods, severe snow storms were prevalent, and generally of long duration. In this respect, the seasons, from some unknown cause, have undergone a sensible ehange. Ow- ing to the prevalence of dampness, and the moist nature of the atmosphere, it is no easy matter to preserve polished iron, steel, and other metals free from rust. Knives, fire-irons, and all such utensils of polished metallic surfaces must be frequently rubbed or brushed, otherwise they would rust in a single day, unless kept in places heated by constant fires. The frequent rains of the place can only be accounted for, from its vicinity and exposure to the Atlantic, the exhalations of which, appearing in dark clouds, are conveyed eastward by the westerly breeze, and are naturally attracted by the hills and mountains of the Hebrides in general. The most prevailing wind is the south-west ; and, from the cause already stated, it is generally attended with rain. This wind, by sweeping across the western ocean, is necessarily saturated with moisture ; and, while it passes from a warmer to a colder climate, naturally deposits its humidity on the first land which obstructs its course. From the effects of this wind the hopes of the hus- bandman are frequently blasted ; and if it happen to prevail in the ripening months of autumn, the fruits of his industry and labour are in danger of being destroyed. Wind from the opposite quar- ter, viz. north-east, though frequently cold, is for the most part dry. ISLAND or SKYE KILMUIR. 243 There is scarcely any thunder except in winter and spring, when it is very prevalent. Lightning is to be seen at all seasons, and some of the oldest inhabitants prognosticate the weather with a wonderful degree of correctness, both from the colour of the elec- tric fluid, and the time of day when it appears. It is generally observ- ed, that when vivid flashes of lightning are seen early in the morning, the ensuing. weather will be unfavourable; but while seen towards the evening, better hopes are entertained. It is remark- ed also, that when the aurora borealis is seen ascending high into the heavens, and when some rays have a reddish appearance, and in* stantly vanish to give place to others of a darker hue, then the weather will certainly change, and continue to be unfavourable for a length of time. The forms and colouring of Nature are frequently magniflcent* ly grand. Scenes at times present themselves which are both in- teresting and impressive. Who can behold without a pleasing elevation of mind, the tempestuous Atlantic battling with the fury of the elements ? What can be more beautiful than to witness the clouds of mist receding, in thickening folds, from the moun- tains, to the higher regions of the atmosphere, and leaving the landscape again to rejoice in the brightness of sunshine I At times, they present phenomena like celestial mountains tinged with the riches and variety of prismatic colouring I The splendour of the morning and evening drapery frequently baffles all descrip- tion. The aurora borealis, or polar lights, are often exceedingly brilliant ; as are likewise the solar rainbow, and the lunar halo. Such luminous meteors, certainly surpass in magniflcence any ap- pearance of the kind in other parts of the kingdom. The natives prognosticate the weather in various ways. It may be noticed also, that they attribute much importance, not only here, but in most parts of the Highlands, to the phases of the moon, not solely in regard to the weather, but likewise to the season best fitted for performing many acts of labour. They imagine that an increasing moon com- municates a growing quality to most substances, while a decreas- ing moon has an opposite tendency, and causes such substances to decay or wither. Actuated by this supposition, they avoid, in ge- neral, slaughtering animals in the wane of the moon, as then, ac- cording to their idea, the meat 'will shrink and decrease while in process of cooking. On the other hand, they prefer cutting tim- ber, mowing hay, casting turf, and delving ground, between full and new moon, as they are under the belief, that by so doing, the 244 INVERNESS-SHIRE. processes of seasoning will be accelerated, and that the sap, or na- tural juicoi weeds, &c. will more speedily decay* Diteaut. — The diseases to which the inhabitants are most liable, and from which they suffer most, are of an inflammatory kind, proceeding from their being continually exposed to damp and cold. During the spring and part of the winter, they are daily in the fields in all weathers, cultivating their patches of land ; consequently they are but seldom either dryly clad or shod. The complaints most prevalent are, acute rheumatism, pleuritic dis- orders, typhus fevers, pneumonia, asthma,' dyspepsia, erysipela* tons affections, and a diseased action of the lymphatic system. SmalUpox, and other contagious diseases, at times make their ap- pearance, being generally brought to the parish by the labourers who frequent the towns and cities of the kingdom in quest of employment Vaccination has been partially introduced, and the prejudice which the people had against it for a length of time, isgra- dually vanishing. There is no medical practitioner nearer than the village of Portree, upwards of twenty miles distant ; and the consequence is, that he is never sent for but in cases of extreme danger. Three or four individuals lately died at the age of 100. In the district of Steinscholl, a man died about twelve years ago, named John Nicolson, or MacCormaic, at the very advanced age of 105. There is one circumstance connected with this old man's history worthy of notice, which is, that he could repeat the most of Ossian's Fingal, Temora, &c with great fluency and precision. The writer of this heard him say that he committed these beau- tiful poems to memory, from hearing them repeated, when a boy, by his grandfather. If this fact be not sufficient to establish the authenticity of these unparalleled poems, it must surely establish the truth, that they existed before thetime of Macpherson, who attempt- ed to translate them into the English language. The silly allegation by some, that Ossian's poems were Macpherson's own production, is palpably confuted by MacCormaic and others, who could repeat them before Macpherson was born. But should that not have been the case, and should none have been found who could re- hearse them before Macpherson's time, the allegation, that they were either by Macpherson, or by any other in the age in which he lived, appears ridiculous in the sight of such as know the con- struction and beauty of the Celtic language. Hydrography.~K\\mw, as has been already stated, is bounded on the one side by the channel called the Minsh, and on the ISLAND OF SKYE — KfLMUHU 245 Other by the Gairloch Channel, each being about twenty miles in average breadth. The water of these channels is exceedingly salt. The currents, although regular, are very strong and rapid. The bottom of these channels must be very rugged, as the depths, which are generally great, vary in almost every place. The pa- rish is supplied with numerous excellent perennial fresh water springs, some of which have a copious discharge. There are also a few of the chalybeate nature, but not very much impregnated. The temperature of these springs varies but little at any season of the year, as they seem to issue immediately from a great depth. On the form of Steinscholl, there is a spring which was disco- vered, only a few years ag^o, whose water is supposed by some to be similar to that of Strathpefier ; but such is not the case, as it is saline, and exhibits no trace of sulphuretted hydrogen. Six ounces of this water were analyzed by a celebrated chemist in the south, who found them to contain, muriates of lime and potash, sulphates of soda, lime, and magnesia, carbonate of lime, and a trace of peroxide of iron and organic matter. At a certain place in the parish, there is an accidental conflux of pure fresh-water springs, which form a small elliptical pond of considerable depth. The bottom consists of whitish sand, which, by being visible through the transparent water, gives a beautiful greenish tinge to the whole. This small lake is surrounded by a little brushwood, and the rivulet which flows from it into the sea is pleasantly hemmed and edged with a few shrubs and bushes. The pond was anciently called Ix>ch Sianta or Seunta, which means the sacred lake, and it retains the name to this day. The hallowed appearance of the situation did not escape the fancy of the ancient Highlanders, whose veneration for such places was carried to a ridiculous excess. Owing to the crystalline purity of the water, its copiousness, and the sequestered situation of this little Hebridean Siloam, they conceived it to be favoured with its divinity, to whom, in the early ages of darkness and ignorance, they were extremely punctual in making offerings of various kinds. In- valids always resorted thither, and imagined that they were bene- fited by drinking of its water, and by thoroughly washing them- selves in a bath erected for the purpose. These superstitions have, however, long ago ceased, and Loch Sianta, though beauti- ful as ever, has lost its ancient charms in this more enlightened age. On the sea-shore, where the rivulet which issues from Loch 246 INVERNESS-SHIBE. Sianta discharges itself into the deep^ dilsoi or Fucus palmatuSf of most superior quality is found, which is much prized by the natives, who frequently cook it like greens, and other vegetables, and reckon it a salutary dish. A little fresh water lake in the parish, called Loch Miaghailt, discharges its water by a subterraneous passage, through the rocks between it and the sea. Near where the stream from this loch spouts out from the precipice, may be seen the form of a High- lander, in full garb, in the face of the rocL From the striking resemblance of this cliff to a Highlander in complete costume, it received the name of Creap naJeiUy the rock of the kilt, and has been frequently admired by tourists in search of the picturesque. It can only be seen to advantage from a little distance at sea. Near the ancient house of Flodigarry, there is an eminence in closa vicinity to the sea-shore, upon which, when a person stands, he hears under him a loud rumbling noise, which must be caused by the sea finding an entrance under the eminence, by means of •omo hollow recesses which are too deep to be seen. Not far from the house of Aird-mhic-ceolain, there is a remark- nUlt» natural formation called Slochd a' mhadaidh, where the sea ilanhos under a natural arch into a circular pool beyond it From this pool there is a subterraneous passage of some hundred yards in length, through which a person may scramble, .at low-water, and come out at the other end. At the place where the person comes out of that rough, dark passage, he sees before him a huge, iso- lated rock of considerable height, called Stachd-Lachlain. This rock is encompassed with quadrangular columns of basalt, and covered on the top with grass. As no one can scramble to its summit, marine fowls take possession of it for a nestling-place. In another place on the same farm, there is a variety of arches and passages, through which the sea dashes with a hollow rumbling noise. There are five little lakes in the parish, which abound with small black and yellow trout. The largest of the lakes was that of St Columba, which is now drained. It was proposed to drain this sheet of water as early as the year 1715, and the work was commenced under the superintendence of Sir Donald Macdonald, who, from his great achievements, was commonly called Donull a* chogaidh, that is wariike Donald. The work was, however, re- linquished in an unfinished state, owing to the disturbances occa- sioned in this and other parts of the kingdom by the battle of ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 247 Sheriffmuir. It is said that although the draining was not then thoroughly accomplished, yet it was so to such an extent, that a con- siderable quantity of water escaped. The proprietor set about redraining this loch about the year 1763, and succeeded ; but, from neglect in keeping the trenches in proper repair, it was allowed again to fill. The work was commenced anew in 1824, by the late Right Honourable Lord Macdonald, and after a period of five years, during which time a great number of labourers were employed, the lake was converted into arable land. Geology and Mineralogy. — Some mineralogists who have visited this and the adjacent parishes, have justly pronounced them to be store-houses of geology, in which several of the more rare minerals have been found. The hills abound with moss, which is also met with in many parts of the low grounds. The remains of various kinds of wood are very prevalent in the black solid moss. Roots, bark, and branches are found in some parts in great quantities, while in other parts solid trunks of trees are met with, some of which are much decayed. Ill almost every peat-bog, quantities of hazel-nuts have been dug up, and even the leaves of that wood have been seen in a state of wonderful preservation. The soil in general is of a glu- tinous, clayey description, interspersed in low situations by tracks of alluvial earth. Even in places where the surface is a light dark mould, the subsoil, by digging some feet, is found to be a stiff al- luvial clay. In some parts the soil consists chiefly of decomposed trap-rock, and other substances, which have undergone changes, by the action of the elements. In the localities where the deep heavy clay predominates, the soil speedily hardens in dry weather to such a degree, that the operations of agriculture are with diffi- culty performed, while in wet weather it softens so much as to cause similar inconvenience. The general aspect of the shores is bold, wild, and rocky. The whole range from the south-east boundary of the parish to the bay of Altivaig, presents an uninterrupted front of columnar precipices of basalt. In some parts, the monotony of the scene is relieved by lofty, isolated cliffs, jutting forth in fantastic forms, while in others, horizontal walls, rising above each other in successive gra- dations, shoot across the perpendicular rocks. Natural arches, vertical chasms, and dark, gloomy caverns, are found in several localities. Some of the hills slope gradually on the one side from their summits to their bases, while on the other they suddenly 2 18 INVBRNESS-SHIKK. present vertical fronts of great height, with blocks and detached fragments strewed in piles below^ which must have fallen down from the impending cliffs, by the waste of time. The hill in which Quiraing is situated, Creag-Nisdale, and a hill to the south of Duntulm, &c. afford striking instances of this. The trap rock more generally undergoes the process of decomposition, and on that account, where it is formed into lofty cliffs, the decomposed parts slope away from their bases to considerable distances. The stratiBed rocks exhibit, in several places, extensive ranges of natural masonry, over which the trap rises in the columnar form to considerable altitudes. While the more perishable rock is washed away, that which is more durable remains in the shape of isolated pillars of all sizes and altitudes. Such changes and de- compositions cause the formation of numberless pinnacles and conoidal points, which resemble at times the turrets or ornaments of artificial masonry. Detached columns are therefore frequent, and some of them rise to a great height over bases of small di- mensions. The stratified rocks in the parj^h are very irregularj and in many parts so greatly distorted and broken, that their dip, angle of in- clination, and other properties, can hardly be ascertained. Near the north boundary of the parish, the trap deiscends to the water's edge, and conceals entirely fnyn view what may exist under it. A little to the south the strata reappear, but to a very small extent. Near the Castle of Duntulm, and southward, the shore presents thin beds of limestone, with shales of various co- lours, verging to flinty slate. Some specimens of carbonized wood are here found, sometimes in detached pieces, and sometimes imbedded in blocks of coarse sandstone. Under the lofty cliffs of the eastern boundary of the parish, fragments of coal, chert, and flinty slate are met with. At Borniskittag-point, west of the manse, there are three caves, one of which, called Uamh an oir, hash een said by many to resemble in miniature, Fingal's cave in Staffa. In the whole range of this highly interesting headland, facing the north, the shore, for nearly a mile, is hemmed with precipices, which have assumed the columnar disposition, and which display picturesque combinations of form. Near the point where the caves are, the columns, broken above and below, present squa^ flat sur- faces. The parts of them which remain below, rise above each ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 249 Other in ttepsy as if hewn out of the solid rock by arti6cial means* These eaves can only be entered at low -tide. Near the northern boundary of the parish, the continual dash- ing of the waves against the opposing rocks has hollowed out ho- rizontal chasms, which emit sounds like the report of cannon, when the sea is lashed into them by the violence of a northern gale. In a storm, the sounds occasioned by these dark recesses are so loud as to be heard at the distance of many miles, and, from their re- semblance to the peals of ordnance, the place is called, Na gun« naichean, or the guns. In a small cave near these recesses, there are concretions of stalactites, which appear on its roof in the form of cream-coloured icicles. At one time the water which dropped from the roof of this little cave formed a beautiful spar-basin below, which was about four feet in diameter ; but people, from curiosity, demolished it, in order to carry pieces of it away. In some parts, gneiss is the lowest rock, and in apparent connec- tion with it, sandstone, greywacke slate, and common slate. Fel- spar, quartz, and chlorite slate constitute another variety met with in some places — masses of hornblende and hornblende slate alternate in several parts with the prevailing rock, while in other places beds of chlorite slate are seen passing into blue argillaceous or talcaceous slate. Beautiful specimens have been found of white felspar traversed by slender veins of hornblende. There is no red -sandstone in the parish, with the exception of some detached blocks on the shores of the island of Fladda, which are supposed by some to have been conveyed thither from the opposite island of Rona, by the force of some stream or cur- rent. Others entertain the opinion, that red-sandstone and gneiss exist in beds under the sea in the vicinity of Fladda^ and that the detached blocks just-mentioned have been thrown up from the bot- tom. Beds of common black shale make their appearance in two or three places, as also calcareous strata alternating with common shale. In many parts, the whole body of the rock seems to be one mass of petrified shells. The same when broken exhibits distinct impressions of bivalves of different sizes. The shores abound with stones of all sizes, which are so full of little cavities including shells, that when taken up and shaken, they make a rattling noise Uke a child's toy. It is quite impracticable in a work of this kind to mention and INVERNESS. R 250 1NVKRNESS-SHIRE. describe the various unstratified rocks, or to give a minute account of their several changes and intricate combinations. There is little or no granite in the parish, and mica-slate is but seldom met with. In some parts, the rocks are beautifully studded with the crys- tals of quartz. Several varieties of greenstones are found. Spe- cimens of asbestus and rock-crystal exist, but are rare. Porphyry, syenite, breccia, &c. are seen in more or less abundance. Several minerals, which principally belong to the zeolite family, are found. Chabasite and analcime exist, although comparatively rare. Stilbite and steatite, on the other hand, are very abundant. The former is found in great quantities among the remains of the decomposed trap-stone. Petrifactions of shells, fishes, and sea-plants, have been frequent- ly met with, but the specimens found of animal remains were not sufficiently perfect to enable the mineralogist to determine to what class they belonged. Zoology. — A catalogue of most of, if not all, the feathered tribes, which frequent the parish and the channels by which it is encom- passed, is sent along with the MS., and, if required, will be found in retentis along with it. It embraces the six orders of the Aves mentioned by Linnaeus, under his second class of natural history, and these will be found in the above-mentioned catalogue, viz. 1. Accipitres ; 2. Picaj ; 3. Anseres ; 4. Grallae ; 5. Gallinae ; and 6. Passeres. The cuckoo and other migratory birds pay their annual visits at their periodical seasons. The cuckoo's egg has been fre- quently found in the titlark's nest Until St Columba's lake was drained, it was yearly frequented by large flocks of swans, which seldom rested on any other lake in the parish. They appeared on the 25th of October annually, passed the winter on the lake, and remained in all about five months. In autumn after the lake was drained, they made their appearance at the usual time, but, on observing the destruction of their fj.vourite haunt, they hover- ed with a cry of sadness for a brief period ever it, then disappear- ed, and have ssldom been seen since near the place. Perhaps the most remarkable species of birds which' frequent the coast of the parish, is the puffin (Fratercula arcticaj) which appears annually in immense numbers at the island of Fladda- chuain, but seldom approaches nearer the shores of the parish. The bill of this bird is beautifully streaked with red and white gtripes, and its form is singular, resembling two short broad blades of a knife, placed with their edges in opposition, and forming an ISLAT^D OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 251 -ttcute spherical triangle. It is migratory, and most regular in its arrival and departure. About the beginning of May, this species of the aquatic tribes appears in vast numbers, literally covering the locks, cliffs, and eminences of the island, and disappear exactly OD the 12th of August. They are so rigidly impelled by instinct to observe their migrations, that, although thousands are seen on this little island on the 1 1th of August, there are scarcely any to be found on the ISth of the same month. Soon after their arri- val, they prepare for laying their eggs and hatching their young. It is said that the male, contrary to the usual economy of birds, undertakes the most arduous part of the process, and labours hard to prepare a secure locality for the deposition of the egg. They lay in burrows, which are dug horizontally in the ground, not in a straight line from the entrance, but in winding little passages from 10 to 15 feet in length. The male, for the most part, undertakes the task of forming this little circuitous tunnel, and for that pur- pose he throws himself on his back, in which position he picks and digs with his hard sharp bill, and casts out the loose earth or mould with his broad webbed-feet. Where the ground is such that they cannot conveniently scoop out a passage, they enter the crevices of rocks and cairns, where they form a well-fortified nest. They lay only one egg, but if robbed of it, as they generally are by the natives, they lay again and again, but never more than a single egg. They are easily caught in their burrows, but when they find themselves closely hemmed in, and in great danger, they resort for security to the remote end of their subterraneous little passage, and thrust out their solitary egg, no doubt as a peace-of- fering to their relentless pursuers ; but although the egg is accept- ed, yet the enemies rest not satisfied until the hapless tenants of the burrows fall victims to their merciless depredators.* Kilmuir is not perhaps so much given to the rearing of sheep and cattle as some other parts of the island. This is accounted for by the great quantity of crop which is raised, in comparison with what is raised in other districts of Skye. Quadrupeds^ Sfc. — The following are frequently met with, viz. foxes, wild-cats, (polecats rare,) otters, terriers, weasels, rats, mice, toads, lizards, frogs, &c Serpents, although not numerous, are • When the poor puffin finds himself in great jeopardy, and unable to effect his es- cape, he pushes out his egg to his pursuer, and cries ** lig, ftg, f&g, — na briith, na briith/* which the natives think is pure Gaelic, namely ** leave, leave, leave* bruise not, bruise nut ;*' but it is almost unneces^ary to say, that this earnest and thricQ* repeated cry to be left, is cruelly disregarded. 252 INVERNESS-SHIRE. sometimes seen ; but there is no instance known of their sting being deadly. The natives, in general, entertain an idea that cattle are stung or bitten by the toad, and some, by means of su- perstitious frets, pretend to effect a cure by certain charms, or by the repetition of some nonsensical rhyme. There seems to be no proper evidence that such swellings on cattle as are attributed to the poisonous bite of the toad are caused thereby, but may with greater propriety be laid to the charge of the serpent, which is well known to sting any animal which comes within its reach. Where cattle are stung by the serpent, the cure invariably resort- ed to is to wash the affected part of the suffering animal with wa- ter which had been poured over the preserved head of a serpent, and this process is considered an effectual remedy. Serpent's heads are, therefore, considered very valuable, and are preserved with every possible care, provided the sting is retained in them, in which the healing virtue is supposed to exist. Insects, — No species of rare or uncommon insects are known to exist in the parish. In warm summer evenings the midge or He- bridean musquito, and the gad-fly or gleig, prove very annoying to labourers and others, and particularly so before rain. There are no bee-hives in the place ; but wild bees are some seasons nu- merous, and such as are generally seen are the Apis lapidaria and the A, muscorum. The caterpillars, as in most places, prove very destructive to fruit-trees and bushes, as well as to garden vege- tables. The most effectual remedy yet found to prevent their ravages, is to pick them carefully off all places where they appear. Grasshoppers are seldom seen ; but butterflies, white, scarlet, and spotted, are quite common. Fishes. — The various sorts of sea-fish are abundant. There are, however, no regularly established fisheries. Every family supplies itself; but it is only in calm weather that the people can go in quest of it, as the sea which surrounds the parish is ex- posed to almost every wind. Among the different kinds and classes of the finny tribe which frequent the coast are, the cod, ling, her- ring, thornback, skate, turbot, mackerel, horse-mackerel, whiting, eel, bream, hake, sythe, cuddy, cole-fish, dog-fish, king-fish, pipe* fish, pollack or lythe, grey and red gurnard, flounder, &c« In the cetaceous order the spout or herring whale merits the first place. Greenland whales are also seen at times, and of an immense size. The porpoise or sea-hog, and whales of small size, are frequently observed playing in the Minsb. Seals are nume- ISLAND OP SKYE — KILMUIR. 253 rouS) but particularly so upon a dangerous reef of sunk rock call- ed Sgeir-nara«maol, which runs across part of the channel or Minsh^ from Hunish point. Of cartilaginous fishes, the skate is reckoned by the natives the most valuable. The common sea« eel is taken in great quantities by means of long lines, and some of them are of great size. The lythe is looked upon as fine and de- licate in quality. Some autumns the gurnard appears in immense shoals, when boat loads of it are taken in a short period of time. The most successful bait for it is a piece of gurnard itself. Had- docks are comparatively rare, but were about half a century ago the most numerous of all fishes. The sythe, though dry and in- sipid, may be said to be of all fish the most useful to the natives, as it supplies them with oil for light, and other purposes. This oil is preferable for burning to train oil. The best season for it is autumn, when 80 to 100 sythes will yield an imperial gallon of oil. Fisheries. — At one period, the herring appeared in prodigious shoals, not only around the coast of the parish, but in all the lochs, creeks, and bays of the island. It then formed an exten- sive and lucrative source of traffic, and the benefits derived from it, by the country in general, were very great It was caught at comparatively little expense, as the natives could, for the most part, make their own nets, and reach their own homes. In every creek and bay large fleets of schooners, brigs, sloops, wherries, and boats of all sizes and descriptions, were to be seen eagerly engaged in the securing of stores for private families, and of car- goes for the southern markets. Now the irregular appearance of this migratory fish, together with the small quantities of it which frequent, at the present day, its wonted haunts, have deprived the natives of one of their best sources of support, and have been in no small degree the means of reducing the redundant population to poverty, and of unfitting them to meet such seasons of destitu- tion as those of 1836 and 1837. Salmon is plentiful on the coast, but the only place where it spawns is the small river which runs into the bay of Altivaig. It goes up that stream if a little swollen with rain, about the 12th of August, and returns to the sea about Michaelmas. A salmon- fishery has been established for the last ten years, on the proper- ty of Lord Macdonald in this island, and the bay of Altivaig has proved one of its most successful stations. The whole is present- ly rented by John Wilson, Esq. Berwick-on- Tweed, and five years 254 INVERNESS-SHIRS. are still to expire of his lease. The quality of the salmon of this parish is considered decidedly superior to that of any other station in Skye. It is caught solely by bag-nets, — preserved by pickling, — and sold at the London market. The shores abound with most, although not with all common shell-Bsh. Bivalves of various kinds are frequently found attach- ed to the Bshermen's long lines, when lifted from the bottom of the deep. Lobsters, crabs, whelks, buckies, mussels, limpets, clams, cockles, &c. are found in more or less abundance. Oys- ters and spout-fish are very rare. Some of these afford tempo«- rary relief to many of the poor inhabitants in years of dearth. Dur- ing the late memorable seasons of scarcity the shores were literally covered with the starving natives, in quest of such little supplies of shell-fish as were left exposed by the ebbing of the tide. Limpets arc much used as bait for catching sythe, cod, had- dock, and other fishes. There is no regular fishing apparatus for catching lobsters, crabs, clams, &c. and on that account there are but small quantities of them procured for family use. Botany, — All sorts of vegetables for culinary purposes suc- ceed well, both in field and garden. There is also a variety of plants to which the natives attribute great medicinal virtues* No doubt some are found to be of use. The Geranium ro» hertianum is applied to sores and cutaneous eruptions, and the Cicuta virosoy or hemlock, to deeply-rooted tumours. Chamo- mile tea, and the juices of several other plants are used with benefit Some of the natives pretend to great skill in point- ing out medicinal herbs, and the proper manner of applying them. It is supposed, however, that the healing quality of many of the herbs resorted to for cures, is more in the imagination of the people, than in the herbs themselves. Such medicinal pro- cesses are often attended with much nonsensical manoeuvres, and superstitious ceremonies. Besides the medicinail plants, others are successfully used for the purposes of dyeing colours and tanning leather. By means of the common heath, a yellow is produced, and with the addition of indigo, a green. The bark or branches of the alder-tree, with sulphate of iron or copperas, dyes an excellent black. Although in bygone ages, the parish must have been wooded, as is proved by the remains of trees found in mosses and in other situations, yet it does not seem to be now adapted for the growth of almost any species of timber. Where trees attain a certain ISLAND OF SKVE^KlLUlUIR. 255 height, they invariably wither. None are therefore found in it, with the exception of a little brush-wood in two or three places. With the view of making a fair experiment, as to the growth of wood, the late noble proprietor planted, in 1831, about ten acres of enclosed ground, with the following kinds of trees, viz. larch, ash, spruce, mountain -ash, silver-fir, elm, beech, and Huntingdon willow ; but all of them have long ago decayed. Bushes for small fruit thrive well, provided ihey be enclosed, and sheltered in fen- ced gardens. The rocks and rugged recesses abound with garlic iind other strongly scented herbs, which frequently, in consequence of their being cropped by cattle, give a disagreeable taste to milk and but- ter. There seem to be no uncommon plants in the parish. The following list embraces a few of such as are met with in more or less abundance. I^obelia Dortmaniia Cotyledon umbilicus Valeriana ofiicinalit Digitalis purpurea Geranium robertianum Lamium album Carlina vulgaris Ranunculus rcpens ^..i^_- purpureum Bellis perennis Stellaria holostca Leontodon taraxacum au- Convolvulus Soldanella Mentha gentilis tumnale Drosera rotundifolia Lithosperraum maritimum Epilubium Thymus serpyllum — — officinale Tussila^o Scolopendrium vulgare Tormcntilla officinalis Lycopodium sclago Lathyrus pratensis Euphrasia officinalis Cicuta virosa. The very rare plant, the Eriocaulon, though not found in this parish, is in great abundance in the parish of Strath. II. — Civil History.* The early history of the parish is involved in impenetrable ob- scurity. The aborigines of this and the surrounding isles, ac- cording to the best historical traditions, were a mixture of the ancient Caledonians or Picts, and the Albanaich, or first settlers, in what is now known by the kingdom of Scotland. The general character of the original population, it is said, was considerably changed by an influx of the cognate Celtic race of Scots, imme* diately after the Scottish conquest ; but this change was, in rea- lity, small, in comparison with that effected by the Vikingr, or pi- ratical kings from Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. These Scan- dinavian rovers appeared on the east coast of England about A. D. 785, and a century, at least, before they obtained a footing in any of the north Hebrides. The accession of the bloody King, > Harold Harfager, to the entire kingdom of Norway, a. d. 880, urged many of his opponents and powerful subjects to escape his * \'ide Buchanan's Ilintory of Scotland ; Chalmers's Caledonia ; Gordon*8 Hit.* tory of Sutherland ; Gregory's History of the Isles. 256 INVERNESS-SHIRE. vengeance, by leaving their native land, and by procuring a set- tlement for themselves by force of arms in this and other islands around. Having, once obtained possession of their new territo* ries, they resolved to make piratical attacks upon their native land, on account of Harold's previous cruelty and vengeance ; — and this procedure provoked the King of Norway and his allies to dispatch a fleet to the Isles, by which they were ultimately sub- dued, and added to the crown of Norway. The aborigines of the Isles had cause to deplore the barbarities of their new oppressors, by whom the ^^ cills" and places of worship erected some centuries before, by the Culdees, the pious disciples of St Columba, were entirely demolished ; and ravages and desolations of the most sweeping description ensued. That the territory which consti- tutes this parish suffered from the effects of these disturbances is evident, from its situation being such, that it would be the first landing place of the enemy in their piratical excursions from the north, and from the fact, that it was strongly secured by the erec- tion of many duns or forts, the ruins of which are still distinctly visible. It would be needless, and would serve no useful end in this ac« count, to attempt making mention of the succession of Vikingrs, or Kings of the Isloss up to the beginning of the twelfth century, when the powerful dynasty of MacDh^nuiU, or Lords of the Isles, had its origin. The great and warlike family of MacDhonuill sprung from Somerled, Lord of Argyle,^ and were, for a succes- sion of centuries, justly renowned for their many achievements and military prowess. At the defeat of the Norwegians at the battle of Largs in Ayrshire, in the reign of Alexander III. the Western Isles were ceded to the kingdom of Scotland, part of which they form to this day. Numerous and intricate were the feuds and quarrels which existed between the septs and clans of the Western Isles, by which the peace of these localities was molested for many subsequent centuries. The islanders were so frequently divided by factions, and their mutual feuds were at times so violent, that Government more than once deemed it prudent to interfere, for the purpose of reconcilia- Of Somerled there arc many traditions still floating among the natiTes. He iras known bv the appellation of *• Soirle Mac Ghillebride na h- Uimba**— Somerled, the son of Gilbride of the cave. A full length portrait of Somerled is beautifully cwcuukI in stained glass in one of the windows of Armadale Castle, Lord Mac. doDald*s seat in Skyo. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 267 tion. lu the year 1528, great disturbances arose in this, and the adjoining parishes of Troternish, in consequence of a feud between the Clann Donuill and the Macleods of Harris. The office of Balliary of all Troternish was granted by royal charter to Alex- ander Macleod of Dunvegan, while, a few weeks afterwards, the same office was similarly granted to Torquil Macleod of Lewis. Under these circumstances, DonuU Gru^mach mac Dhonuill Ghallaich of Sleat assembled his forces, and was successful in ex^ pelUng Macleod of Dunvegan and his clan from the barony of Tro-* ternish. After the death of Donull Gruamach, Dunvegan renew- ed hostilities, and resolved by every possible means to regain pos- session of Troternish. Donull Gorm, the son and successor of Donull Gru^ach, entered Troternish in May 1539, and, with a strong body of his adherents, laid waste the country with 6re and sword. There are still traditions of the hardships and calamities to which the inhabitants of this parish were then exposed. Some days subsequent to this invasion, Donull G6rm passed over from Troternish to Kintail, with a view to be revenged on Mackenzie, on account of his hostility to his pretensions. In an attempt to take Mackenzie's castle at Elandonnan by surprise, DonuU G6rip lost his life, by an arrow directed against him from the battlements of the fortress.* The excesses to which these disastrous feuds were carried ar- rested the attention of James V. ; and, with a determination to check them in future, not only in this part of Skye, but in all the Western Isles, he resolved to appear in person before the various chieftains of the Isles. For this purpose, his Majesty, with a considerable fleet, left the Forth in May 1540, and, saihng round the north of Scot- land, called at Lewis, where he took on board Macleod of that island, whence, passing over to Skye, he took along with him Mac- leod of Dunvegan, and then directing his course eastward, visited Troternish, still bearing marks of its late desolation. Tradition says, that his Majesty minutely inspected and greatly admired the fortress of Duntulm, the residence, in this parish, for many cen- turies, of the noble Clann Donuill. Here he was met by a num- ber of chieftains, who claimed relationship to the Lords of the Isles.f * Elandonnan fortress, at the time, had but few men in garrison, and Mackenzie being absent, it is very probable that it would have been, taken, were it not that DonuU Gorm received a wound in the thigh, from a barbed arrow, which he pulled out with such violence as to sever the main artery. The blood, of course, flowed copi- ously, and all the means which were used to check its effusion proved ineffectual. He was hastily conveyed' to a little island at some distance, where he had been but a short period when he died, f After his Majesty had taken on board Ruairidh Macleod, and his kinsmen^ at 258 INVKRNESS-SUIRE. Setting sail from Duntulm, the fleet doubled the northern point of Skye, and coasting it southward in the channel which separates Skye from the mainland, cast anchor at Portree, now the capital of the island, and deriving its name from that royal visit.* Leav- ing this harbour, his Majesty proceeded southward through the Kyles of Skye, and, after visiting in succession the rest of the He- brides, landed at Dumbarton Castle. About the year 1580, a secret plot was laid to deprive DonuU Gorm Mor of his property. This Donull Gorm Mor was the grandson of Donull Gorm, who died at Elandonnan. The plot was devised and artfully carried on against the proprietor by his own nephew, Uistean Mac Ghilleaspuig Chlirich, (Hugh, the son of Archibald, the Clerk), who was a very powerful and treacherous man. Seeing that his uncle, Donull Gorm, had no issue, and that the property would, in consequence, devolve upon his elder brother, Donull Gorm og Mac Ghilleaspuig Chleirich, he resolv- ed to usurp it by power and stratagem. For this purpose, he se- cretly contrived to gain over to his cause as many of the clan as possible, at the same time pretending to his uncle to be on the best possible terms with him. The 6rst preparation for the ac- complishment of his schemes, was the building of a large tower or castle on the farm of Peinduin, in the adjoiuing parish of Sni- zort. This tower, still called " caisteal Uistein," t. e. Hugh's Castle, was never entirely finished. It was erected on a rock by the sea side, and had neither door nor windows, but was to be entered on the top, by means of ladders, which could be pulled up and let down at pleasure. The ruins of this castle are still seve- ral feet in height. It is said that Donull Gorm had but little suspicion of his nephew's intrigues, until he commenced the build- ing of this unique fortress, which he did under other pretences, by the permission of his uncle. A few years afterwards, however, Donull Gorm had more direct proof of his nephew's intentions. Having had occasion to pay a visit to his kinsman at Dunyveg, in Isla, he set out from his castle at Duntulm, with a retinue of his vassals and Lewis, as also Alexander Macleod of Dunvegan, and his chief vassals in that part of Skye, he was met at Duntulm by Glengarrvi several principal men of the Clann' Donuiilf Iain Muideartach, and others, who severally accompanied the fleet to the south. The King having landed at Dumbarton, sent the fleet, with the captive chiefs, and their principal adherents, round by the north to Leith. * Portree is a Gaelic name, which signifies the King's harliour. The name of the bay at Portree, previous to the royal visit in question, vas *' Loch Choluim* Cille/* that is, St Columba's bay. There is a small island in the bay, which ttiU retains the nimc of'' F.ilan Choluim Cille,** viz. the Island of St Coluraba. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR, 259 friends. When on the coast of Jura, they were overtaken by a storm, which forced them to land on the property of Maclean of Duart, in that Isle. It happened that the same storm made the usurper, Uislean, and some of his adherents, take shelter in a bay, quite contiguous to where his uncle had landed. As soon as night had come on, Uistean, fully aware of his uncle's situation, carried off a number of Maclean's cattle, and set sail for the ilorth, know* iDg well that, as his visit to the place was unknown to Duart, Donull G6rm and his retinue would be accused as the perpetra- tors. Such was the case next dav, — when the cattle were amis- sing, the Skyemen were attacked by a strong bcrdy of Duart's re- tainers. Many of the Macdonalds fell in the skirmish, and their chief narrowly escaped, by getting into one of his galleys, and set- ting sail for Skye. This insidious conduct on the part of Uistean was the cause of a violent feud between the Macdonalds and the Macleods, and matters assumed an aspect so serious that the king had to interfere to effect a reconciliation. Soon after Donull G6rm's return at that time to his castle at Duntulm, he had a letter from his treacherous nephew Uistean, which was the means of bringing his plots clearly to light. Uistean being in Uist, with a view to procure as many adherents as possible, wrote a letter to- one of his confederates in Skye, revealing all his plans, while, at the same time, he wrote another letter, full of friendly expres- sions, to his uncle at Duntulm. It is said, that while both letters were closed and sealed, he committed an egregious mistake for his own unrighteous cause, by addressing his confederate's letter to his uncle, and vice versa ; by which awkward oversight, Donull Gorm was, from Uistean's own handwriting, led to a knowledge of all his schemes. Before the usurper was aware of what he had done, Donull Gorm despatched a messenger to his kinsman and relative, Donull Maclain 'ic Sheumais in Uist, to seize Uistean, and bring him prisoner to Duntulm. Without loss of time Donull Maclain put his liege* lord's instructions into execution. He re-* sorted to the house where Uistean resided, and as he approached it with a strong retinue of men, the usurper, dreading that all was not right, and seeing the impossibility of effecting his escape, had barely time to dress himself in female attire, and to commence grind- ing with a quern, or hand-mill, at which the inmates had been at the time engaged. The size, and masculine appearance of the grinder soon attracted the notice of the party when they entered the house. They laid hold of him, but his great agility and bodily 260 INVERNBSS-SHIIIE. Strength^ together with his being rendered violent through despair, made it doubtful for a time whether or not the party could re- tain him. At length, being encumbered with his dress, and unable any longer to defend himself against the men who surrounded him, he was seized, and fastly bound, and carried prisoner to the family Beat in this parish. He was cast into the dungeon of the castle, which was a dark, secluded vault on the ground-floor of theedifice^ whero he was chained in the centre of the apartment. He was fed on ^salt beef, and when he stretched forth his hand to grasp a covered pitcher which was placed near him, and which he no doubt supposed to contain water, he found it empty ! Writhing in agony with thirst, he found neither alleviation nor repose, until death put an end to his suflTorings.* The next circumstance which merits particular notice^ as hav- ing occurred in the parish and districts adjacent, is the letting of Ihejands of Troteroish, together with the Island of Lewis, to a Lowland Company, at a stipulated rent, that they might improve the same, according to directions prescribed by the King, (James VL) The Company, however, soon found cause to relinquish their engagements, and to leave the lands to the management of those chieft who maintained a preferable right of occupancy/f Three years after the granting of the above lease, viz. in a. d. 160], the peace of the parish, in common with the rest of Mac- JDhonuill's estates in Skye and Uist, was in no small degree dis- turbed. by a bloody feud which broke out between the two power- ful chiefs MacDhonuill and Macleod of Dunvegan. The quar- rel arose from some private affairs connected with their families. Ruairidh Macleod of Dunvegan, having assembled his vassals and clan, invaded the barony of Troternish, and carried fire and sword into every district of it DonuU Gorm mor, on the other hand, with a powerful retinue of his clan, entered the Island of Harris, then the property of Macleod of Dunvegan, and caused it to suf- fer in a similar manner. For the purpose of being revenged, * Ui8tean*8 remains were interred in the parisli burying-ground. Some ages after* wards, his skull and thigh bones were exhumed, no doubt as curiosities, owing to their immense size. ^ They were lying for many years about the walls and recesses of the old church, until they were again committed to the dust about sixteen years ago. f According to Gregory and others, the Lowland company consisted of theUuke of Lennox; Patrick, Commendator of Lindores ; William, Coromendator of Pitien* weem ; Sir James Anstruthcr; Sir James Sandilands of Slamanno; James Leir- mont of Balcolmy ; James Spens of Wormestown ; John Forret of Fiogask ; David Home of Wedderbume; and Captain William Murray. The annual rent for Troternish was fixed at 400 mcrks; and the date of the lease was May 1506. ISLAND OP SKYfi— KILMUIR. 261 Macleod sent a party of men under a choice leader to destroy MacDhonuiirs estate in Uist, but they were there met and rout- ed with much bloodshed, by MacDhonuill's kinsman already men- tioned, yiz. DonuU Maclain 'ic Sheumais. During thefie dis- astrous conflicts, the estates of both chiefs were very much injured ; and the natives were reduced to great hardships, by being daily in terror of their lives, and by neglecting to cultivate their lands to make provision for themselves and families. At length, affairs came to be decided by a pitched battle. MacDhonuill collected his forces, and Macleod did the same. The two great chiefs at the head of their warriors, met in close vicibity to the lofty mount CuUin, and after a desperate and bloody conflict, in which both clans fought with distinguished bravery, the Macleods were rout- ed with great slaughter. It would be impossible within the limits of this account to relate the various little feuds and differences which disturbed the repose of the parish, in common with the rest of the estates of the power- ful Macdonald family, down to the period of the battle of Killie- crankie in 1689, and of Sheriffmuir in 1715. No fewer than five cousins of Sir Donald Macdonald of the Isles fell on the bloody field of Killiecrankie, fighting on the side of Dundee. Sir Donald Macdonald, commonly called Donull a' chogaidh, led forth a strong body of chosen men from this and the adjacent parishes, to the battle of Sheriffmuir, where they distinguished themselves by their wonted bravery. But neither of these engagements created such a sensation in this place as did the Rebellion of 1745. It is well known, that, had Sir Alexander Macdonald and Macleod of Dun- vegan joined the standard of the unfortunate Prince Charles Ed-* ward Stuart, the fate of Culloden would have been different. The joint forces of these powerful chiefs were at the time nearly 4000 strong. Clanranold was despatched to Skye to hasten the two chiefs just named, to join the Prince's cause. He found them both at Monkstadt, in this parish, the residence at that time of Sir Alexander Macdonald. The envoy's entreaties were in vain, for, however much disposed these chieftains might have been at first to assist the Chevalier, they evidently saw by that time that his cause was hopeless, and they prudently kept aloof.* * It is said, when the Duke of Cumberland met Sir Alexander Macdonald, after the battle of CuUoden, that be addressed him — *'*• Ho! is this the great rebel of the Isles?** — and that Sir Alexander instantly replied—** No, my Lord Duke, for had 1 been the rebel of the Isles, your Graee vould not have crossed the Spey.** 262 INVBRNESS-SHIRE. Mis$ Flora Macdonald. — The story of the heroic conduct of Miss Flora Macdonald in conducting the unfortunate Charles in the dis- guise of a maid-servant from the Long Island to Monkstadt in this parish, is so well known that any detail of it here is unnecessary. Many were the trials and severe thehardships which fell to the lot of the gallant Miss Flora, subsequent to this adventure. She was soon seized and brought prisoner to London, where she was, with Kingsburgh, and many others, confined in the Tower. All admired the dauntless part which she had acted, and her case ex*- cited so much irxterest, that she was visited by the great and noble of the land. Among^ the rest, she had the honour of a visit from Prince Frederick of Wales, great- grandfather of her present Ma- jesty Queen Victoria. This generous prince was so much struck with the simplicity and dignity of the fair prisoner's character that he interested himself to procure her liberation.* When she had obtained her freedom, she found refuge in the house of Lady Primrose of Dunnipace, where she was visited and loaded with honours by distinguished personages of all ranks and shades of politics. Returning to her native isle, she was married in the month of November 1750, to Allan, son of Mr Alexander Mac- donald of Kingsburgh, who resided at the time of his marriage at Flodigarry, in this parish. Upon the death of her husband's father, his son, Allan, succeeded him, and Flora, then Mrs Allan Macdonald, became lady of the mansion of Kingsburgh. She afterwards went to North Carolina with her husband, where he took part in the civil war which then disturbed the peace of that country. After undergoing many hardships in that quarter, they deemed it prudent to return to Skye. The vessel in which they sailed from America was met by a French privateer, and an *. It is said that when Flora was liberated, she used her influence to procure the liberation of Kingsburgh, as also of Donald Maclcod of Galtrigal, and of Calum inac lain mhic Iain, who went in the capacity of guide with the Prince ftt>ni Raaay to Kilinorie in Strathaird. It is said that Kingsburgh was anested in the following manner : Some days after the Prince was there, Captain Ferguson of the Govern- ment war ship, cast anchor at the ** Crannag,** near Kingsburgh House, and, haTlng gone ashore, met Kingsburgh*s dairy.maid attending some cattle. He entered into conversation with* the maid, and, suspecting that she might have some news for bim» induced her to go to see the vessel. When on board he treated her kindly, and gave her some little presents ; then asking her about various circumstances relative to country news, she not knowing who her entertainer was, told, with an air of prid^ that she had seen Prince Charles ; that he was a night at her master's house ; that her mistress and other ladies who were there at the time, got beautiful locks of his hair ; and that his appearance pleased her much. This was all that Ferguson wanted, and, by means of this imprudent disclosure on the part of the unsuspecting maid, the first' certain proof was obtained of the manner in which Kingsburgh had acted, as weU as of the certainty that the Prince bad landed in Skye from Uist. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 263 action took place, in which Flora appeared on deck, where, with her wonted magnanimity, she inspired the seamen with courage, and assured them of success. Although her arm was broken in the engagement, yet her native spirit of heroism was not in the least degree damped. She never more left Skye. She had seven children, five sons and two daughters, besides some who died in infancy ; all her sons were officers, who distinguished themselves in the service of their king and country. Her daughters, on the other hand, became officers' wives. Ann was the lady of Major Alexander Macleod, and died at Stein, in this island, about six years ago. Her second daughter, Frances, was married to Lieu- tenant Donald Macdonald of Cuiderach. Of this interesting far mily, none are now alive. The celebrated Flora lived to an ad- vanced period of life, and retained to the last that vivacity of cha- racter and that amiableness of disposition, by which she was al- ways distinguished. On the 5th of March 1790, she departed this life, little more than two vears before the death of her hus- band. Her remains were interred in the burying-ground of this parish, within a square piece of coarse wall, which was erected about the year 1766 to enclose the tombs of the Kingsburgh fa- mily. Her funeral, it is said, was attended by no fewer than 3000 individuals, of every rank and class, and all were liberally served with refreshments.* Now that the spirit of Jacobitism is gone, and the world at large * In the same burjing- place various members of the Kingsburgh fimily were in- terred, as may be seen from the following inscription on a marble slab* which wai procured many years ago by Lieutenant- Colonel John Macdonald of £xeter» to be placed over his mother's ( Fiora^s) grave. The slab was, however, broken in convey- ing it to this place from the south ; and no fragment of it is now left by touristSi who have carried it off in pieces as curiosities, 'i'be inscription was as follows : *' In the family mausoleum at Kilmuir, lie interred the remains of the following members of the Kingsburgh family, viz. Alexander iMacdonald of Kingsburgh ; his son Allan, his sons Charles and James ; his son John, and two daughters ; and of Flora Macdonald, who died in March 1790, aged 68 \ name that will be mention- ed in history, and if courage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour.'*—** She was a woman of middle stature, soft features, gentle manners, and elegant presence. So wrote Johnson.** The abov£ confused inscription embraces the names of most of the Kingsburgh family, whose remains sluml>er within the square piece of rude building, already al- luded to. The remains of Flora's last surviving daughter, Mrs Mijor Macleod, were consigned to their kindred dust about six years since, 'l^e said Mrs Mtgor Macleod has left only one daughter, Miss Mary Macleod, still alive at Stein. Dr Johnson and bis fellow-traveller Boswell, while on their tour through the He- brides in 1773, visited Flora and family at Kingsburgh, and were much struck with that lady's appearance, and elegance of manners. So great was Flora's enthusiasm for the prince and his success, that she carried with her to America a part of the sheet in which he slept at Kingsburgh, intending that, when, or where she might die, it should be used for her shroud. She brought it back from America, and it is said, that, according to her own request, it was the shroud in which the waa lowered into the grave. 264 INVERNESS-SHIRE. has ceased to regard the claims of the house of Stuart, it is a mat- ter of regret that the dust of the memorable Flora, in whose bosom that spirit, so lofty and chivalrous, burned with such unexampled fervour, should be allowed to moulder without a monument of the meanest description to mark her tomb. In this age, so remark- able for the zeal displayed in rearing memorials for distinguished characters, it is surprising that no spirited individuals have stepped forward to erect, by public subscription or otherwise, some monu- ment over the ashes of one so justly celebrated and so universally admired. In all quarters of the kingdom, burying-grounds are to be seen crowded with every variety of tombs, excelling each other in neatness of workmanship, and in elegance of inscriptions ; while the remains of the memorable Flora are allowed to crumble un- der a green solitary turf, without a stone to mark the spot, or even a rude flag with the initials of her name to catch the traveller's eye. Soon after the suppression of the Rebellion^ when the isles were rans!v:ked bv Government forces in search of the ill-fated Prince* Major Allan Macdonald, alias Ailean a Chnoic^ who was a staunch adherent of the Government, harboured,as it would appear, some ill will towards his chief, Sir Alexander Macdonald. In consequence of this, it is alleged that he informed Captain Ferguson that Sir Alexander possessed a great stock of arms at Monkstadt; i)o doubt, insinuating that they might be used at some future period in the cause of the Chevalier. Sir Alexander having heard what Allan had done, and in order to avoid any such suspicions being entertained against him, gave instructions to throw the arms into the sea. They were accordingly conveyed to a boat, and consign- ed to the deep near Kilbride, the place at which the Prince and Flora landed in this parish.* Ancient Families. — The Macqueens of Garafad, the Martins, and others, were ancient families of some note in the parish. Tra- dition says, that, at some remote period, twenty young men, of each of three clans, or tribes, were given to the proprietor, as a dowry with his wife, Nighean Chathain, from Ireland, as men in those days were more valuable than money. It is alleged, that the Macqueens, Martins, &c. are their descendants. The Mac- queens had the farm of Garafad for many centuries free, with the * Ailean a* Chnoic was father to General Donald Mac'lonald, Colonel of the 55th foot, who was wounded in Holland in 1799, and died in London. Major Allan used the Jacobites very harshly in Uist, and in other quarters, so that he was no favourite with any who hacf embraced the Prince's cause. After the Rebellion, he left the coun- try, and died in the town of Ayr. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 266 exception that they had to give a certain number of salmon, at a fixed price, annually to the proprietor. It is said that they got deeply in arrears with their salmon rent, and, being unable to pay the same when demanded, lost their tenure* A Mrs Macqueen, the relict of the last of the family, had a pendicle of the farm un« til the day of her death. Landnnoners and Residence. — The most entire ruin in the pa- rish, is the magnificent Castle of Duntulm, the ancient residence of the family of Macdonald, the illustrious descendants of So« merled, Rex Insularum. This dun or fort was built on a lofty, perpendicular, sea-beaten rock, and, from its situation, must have been impregnable, both from sea and land. It was originally a Danish fort, which was rebuilt by the powerful Clann Donuill for a family seat. It is said that this distinguished clan made choice of this place as the site of their castle, because it was, at the time of the Norwegian Conquest, the residence of David, one of the most powerful of the Vikingr, or piratical kings, who in- vaded the island. It was anciently known by the name of Duu Dhaibhidh, or David's Fort, and the word David was inscribed on a stone in the front of the original tower, but that stone, and many others, having sculptured figures upon them, were taken away as curiosities. This superb edifice was, from time imme- morial, the birth-place of many gallant heroes, renowned charac* ters, and eminent men of that powerful clan. Most of these, though hot all, were interred in a plot in the parish burying-ground, called Reileag Mhoir Chloinn Donuill, or the large cemetery of the Macdonalds. The Macdonalds have for ages been justly distinguished as the best and most indulgent of proprietors. The family residence is now Armadale Castle, in the parish of Sleat. Antiquities, — The ruins of cills, or Culdee chapels, as has al- ready been noticed, are very numerous. The monastery, which was erected by St Columba on an island, in the now drained lake of Colum-cille, bears every mark of having been an extensive and firmly-built edifice. It is now almost level with the ground ; still the foundation can be distinctly traced. There was a fane, or temple, now in ruins, in the above-men- tioned island of Fladda-chuain, supposed to have been built by the Druids, who, according to tradition, went thither once a year to worship and feast. There were nine smooth stones used by them in their religious ceremonies, each about a foot in length. They remained entire, and might still have been seen there had INVERNESS. S 266 INVERNESS-SHIRE, they not been, of late years, stolen as curiosities by some persons unknown. There were three burying-places in this small island, one of which is named to this day Cladh-Mhanaich, that is, the monks* burying-place. The forts of the parish are six in number, viz. Dun-Scudde- burgh, Dun-Liath, Dun-Bhannerain, Dun-Barplacaig, Dun-Tulm, and Dun-Deirg. It is well ascertained, that most of these duns, or forts, are Danish. The last mentioned, however, seems to have been erected by tHe Druids. It is known that Dargo was a brave and warlike Druid, who attempted to restore the fallen dig- nity of his order. Ossian, the celebrated Celtic bard, makes mention of Dearg nan Druidhean, that is, Dargo of the Druids, or Dargo the Druid. We have, therefore, here, Dun-Deirg, which is, the fort of Dargo, about which many little traditions are still afloat among the old men of the country. Several tiers of stone still remain in some of these forts ; and, from the immense size of most of the blocks which were used, it appears wonderful how they could have been raised from the ground, unless very strong mechanical powers were made to act upon them. It is evident from the situation of these forts that they were intended to give each other an alarm at the approach of an enemy, as they are in- variably found to be in sight of each other. The signal which was given, as may be gathered from ancient traditions and songs, consisted of something which was set on 6re for the purpose, and tlie burning light was held up upon the turrets of the Fort, by what was called the crois-tdraidh^ or crdnn-tdraidhy that is, a fire-cross, or gathering-beam. The crois-taraidh was made use of in various manners. Sometimes it consisted of a piece of wood half-burnt, then dipped in the blood of a goat, lamb, or any other animal, and finally circulated by emissaries as a signal of distress. Under the feudal system, the crann-taraidh was used at a period not very remote. It is spoken of by Ossian, and Ullin, as well as by several modern Celtic bards.* When one chief had a feud with another, and wished to call his retainers speed!* ly together, he dispatched a messenger to the nearest hamleU with the blood-stained beam of alarm, who would deliver it to the first he met, and would only mention the place of rendezvous. The beam would then be similarly delivered in the next bam- let, and so on until it passed through the hamlets of several districts, and thus the vassals of the chief would appear at the appointed gathering station, in a few hours. Should any one presume to disobey the call of this blood-stained, though mute mes. senger of slaughter, he speedily forfeited his life for his neglect. It is said, that, in the year 1745, the crann taraidh was made to pass through ever^ hamlet in Breadal- bane in three hours. *< Ach ciod so*n solus ann Innisfail, O chr^nn-taraidh an fhuathais ? ISLAND or SKYE — KILMUIR. 267 There was an old chapel in the parish called Petn-na-citt^, where there were two erect stones^ at which the Druids are said to have worshipped. These stones were evidently part of a Druidical cir- cle, but were taken down some time ago, and human bones were discovered around them. Old men remark that there were an- ciently many Druidical circles and places of worship, the remnants of which have been destroyed by the progress of agriculture and other causes. There are vestiges of cairns and circles near the farm-house of Lonfern, at a place still called Totagan nan Druid'- hean. i. e. the little knolls of the Druids. Of old there were many erect stones in the place, as also cairns piled up in the form of a cone, with flat stones on their top, on which, it is said, sa(;ri6cing fires were kindled ; but most of these relics have been destroyed. When the lake of Colum-cille was drained, in or about the year 1760, there was an oaken boat discovered deeply imbedded in the bottom of the lake. It would seem, from its situation, that it must have been there for many ages. This boat, although not large in size, is said to have been much stronger, and far more firmly built than any of modern date. The iron rings which were fastened in the ends of it, were of almost incredible thickness, so much so, that they were converted into sockets for instruments used in the parish for tilling the ground. Parochial Registers. — Kilmuir has not the advantage of a pa- rochial register, of a later date than 1822. If there were any pre- vious to that date, they were either lost or destroyed. There are several excellent maps and surveys of the parish in the proprie- tor's possession, and in particular a nicely executed plan by Mr Matthew Stobie, in the year 1766. The Presbyterian ministers in the parish have been, Mr Kenneth Bethune, officiating in Kilmuir and in part of Snizort ; Mr Do- nald Macqueen ; Mr Donald Martin, late of Abernethy, in Strath- spey ; Mr Donald Ross, presently minister of Loth, in Suther- landshire ; and the present incumbent These, with the exception of some missionaries, are supposed to have been the only Presbyterian ministers who were settled in the parish. Messrs Donald and Alex- Togaibh bbur siuil, tairnibh bhur raimh, Grad ruithibh gu traigb, is buaidh leibh.**— Ullin. « But wbat light is this in Innis^fail, From the gathering beam of terror? Unfurl your sails, — ply your oars, Make haste to the beach, and may victory be yours.** 368 INVERNES8-SHIRE. » ander Nicolson, and others were in the place, but it is said that they belonged to the Episcopalian Church. Modem Buildings* — There are no modern buildings in the pa- rish, with the exception of the Government church and manse at SteinschoU, and it may be added, the parochial schoolmaster's dwel- ling-house, and farm-steadings. Both Scotch and foreign timber is used for building. As no lime is manufactured in the parish, it is generally conveyed by sea from Broadford, where Lord Macdonald allows it to his tenants, at a lower rate than what it can be disposed of to those from another property. The hamlets and cottages of the letters or small tenants are but of inferior construction. They are generally built of rude stone, and the intervening chinks are filled with dry mould in place of lime or mortar. As no wood for roofing grows in the place, the same is purchased on the mainland, and conveyed by sea to the parish. The roof of a letter's dwelling consists of six or eight rude cupples, made of unsquared timber, over which a few beams are laid transversely to support the " keb- hers," which in their turn support the turf and straw made use of as thatch. It must be acknowledged that there is as yet a want of cleanliness and comfort displayed in the construction of many of these dwellings. Notwithstanding the march of general improve- ments, still many of the Hebridean crofters, actuated by ancient prejudices and mistaken ideas, admit their cattle under the same roof with themselves. The houses generally consist of three apartments, which are separated either by stone walls or partitions made of wattled-work, straw, or reeds. The middle apartment is the one principally occupied by the family, who have the fire in the centre of the floor, over which the crook is suspended from the raflers above. On the one side of the 6re, a wooden bench or rude sofa is placed, of sufficient size to contain five or six people, while on the other side is found the good-wife's ** sunnag" or rus- tic arm-chair, of plaited straw, near which are the cradle, spin- ning-wheel, *' amraidb," or cup-board, a large covered pot con- taining the kelt for family dress, undergoing the slow process of indigo dye, and the other paraphernalia which are indispensable for immediate family use. The inmost apartment serves the pur- poses of barn or bed-room, sometimes both, while that next the door is occupied by the cattle. The houses are, for the most part, annually unroofed, for the purpose of applying the sooty turf and thatch, as manure for the potato ground. There are three meal-mills in the parish, one in each district. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 269 and all impelled by water. They are firmly built, slated, and well- finished. They consist of strong machinery, and are kept in good repair. Mill-stones, when required, are procured in the island of Rasay, of a suitable quality for the grinding of oats and barley. 1 1 1. — Population. It is quite impossible, in the present day, to specify numerically ihe amount of population in remote times. It is, however, per- fectly well ascertained, that tt must have been very small, as is evident from the fact, that farms which presently support fifty or sixty families were occupied, about half a century ago, by no more than the tenth part of that number. The civil parish consists of three districts, as already specified, viz. those of Kilmuir and Kilmaluag, which now constitute that part of the parish which remains attached to Kilmuir church ; and the district of Steinscholl, which is attached. to the Government church some time ago erected there. By a census which was carefully taken up by the writer of this account, in January 1837, the population of these several districts stood as follows : I. — Kilmuir District. Number of families in Kilmuir district, . . . 296 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . . 338 under 12 years of age, . 529 males in do. ... . 740 females in do. ... . . 865 Total population of Kilmuir district, . . 1605 II. — Kilmaluag District. Number of families in Kilmaluag district, . . .123 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . . 188 under 12 years of age, . . 203 males in do. . • . . .311 females in do. . . . • . • • . 359 Total population of Kilmaluag district, . . . 670 III. — Steinscholl District Number of families in Steinscholl district, . . . 320 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . . 376 under 12 years of age, . . 583 males in do. ... . . 795 females in do. ... . . 941 Total population of Steinscholl district, . . • 1736 IV. — Kilmuir and Kilmaluag Districts, Number of families in said two districts now attached to Kilmuir church, 421 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . • 476 J under ISS years of age, . • 732 males in do. . . . , • 1051 females in do. ..... 1224 Total population of the two districts attached to Kilmuir church, . ^275 270 INVERNESS-SHIUE. v.— Whole Civil Parish. Number of families in the three districts of the original civil parish, . 741 individuals in do. under 7 years of age, . . 85*2 under 12 years of age, . . 1315 males in do. • • 1846 females in do. . • •2165 Total population of the whole original undivided parish, . . 401 1 The population of the whole united parish was in the year 1736 only 1230 souls. Nineteen years afterwards it amounted, accord- ing to Dr Webster, to 1572. In the year 1771, it was, according to Dr Walker, 1900 1791, . . 2060 1801, . . . 2555 1808, . 2995 1831, . . 3415 By the census taken in January 1837, . 401 1 souls. * The annual average number of marriages for the five years im- mediately preceding 1827 was about 21, while the same (owing to the adoption of salutary checks, which will be afterwards ad- verted to,) does not exceed 6 for the last twelve months. The average number of individuals in each family is 5§ nearly. In the two districts attached to Kilmuir church, there were 421 families in Januarv 1837, and onlv 190 divisions of land, in the shape of lots, croflts, and farms. Of these 421 families, 231 held no possessions whatever from the proprietor, but lived as a burden and drawback on the occupiers of the 190 divisions, either in the humble capacity of cottars, or as under tenants, who held shares of the said 190 divisions under the baneful system of sub- letting. As this process of sub-letting was annually progressing, the popu- lation, as a matter of course, was rapidly increasing, until it accu- mulated to an amount by far too large for being comfortably sup- ported by the produce or agricultural returns of the parish. Hence the origin of a redundant population ; and while that re- dundancy is permitted to continue, destitution and poverty, toge- ther with a train of concomitant evils, will be the sure but unhap- py results. From what has been stated, it will be seen, that, during the last six- * It will be observed that there is an apparent increase of 596 souls in the parish in the six years between 1831 and 1837 ; but it is only apparent, as the census of 1831, by being taken in summer, was under the real amount of population, as many were out of the country in quest of employment, who were not taken into the account. Tlie time of the year in which the census is taken has a material cflfect on the results arrived at. If taken in the summer months, many of the inhabitants arc out of the parish at fishing stations and public works. A census taken in the Hebridean parishes in the summer season is sure to give incorrect returns, unless the Government rt^ula- tions in regard to the census were deviated from, so fkr as to include the absent,nicm* bert of the several families. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. * 271 ty years, the population has rapidly increased, although at various times considerable numbers have emigrated to foreign lands. Within that period, the country has frequently been visited with scarcity ; but it was so at four diiTerent times to such a degree of severity, as to call forth public sympathy and aid. The general scarcity of Bliddhna na peasrachy or the pease-meal year of 1782, is not yet forgotten. In the same manner, the hardships of want were severely felt in the years 1807 and 1817 ; but the dis- tress of those seasons was trifling in comparison with that of 1836 and 1837, which will ever be memorable in the annals of this and other parishes.* It is impossible by any description to give an adequate idea of the calamities of the late destitution. The spring of 1835 was cold and inclement Sowing was of necessity late, and, owing to the moist state of the soil, a large portion of the seed never vege- tated. Potatoes were planted, but, from an unaccountable disease in that prolific and alimentary root, as well as from the coldness of the soil, the greater part decayed in the ground. In harvest the unripe fields were deluged with rain. The straw lost its sub- stance. The' grain remained unfilled, and the hopes of the hus- bandman for the support of his family and cattle were simulta- neously blasted. For the spring of 1836 the people were ill pre- pared. Their oats were damaged and scanty. Their potatoes were few, and of the worst quality. The fields were with difficul- ty tilled for the reception of seed, which gave but feeble hopes of vegetation. In many places, tracts of lands were cultivated which remained unsown. The cattle became emaciated on the sapless straw. The season advanced with every appearance of fearful re- sults. The natives, so justly characterized by their sense of pride and patience under the hardships of indigence, were forced to ac- knowledge their want of the necessaries of life. Already the re- sidence of the clergyman was daily frequented by groups of the helpless, as if he could procure immediate relief. The shores were ransacked late and early, and at all hours, for sea-weed and shell-fish, to afibrd a scanty repast. The fields were of unpro- mising appearance, and, before they arrived at any thing like ma- turity, October came in, with its piercing frost, and destructive storm of snow. Sad and distressing were the scenes of. hardship * An essay by the writer of this Account may be seen in No. 42 of Blackwood's Quarterly Journal of Agriculture, in which the causes which led to the destitution uf 1836 and 1837 are discussed at some length. 272 INVEKNESS-SHIllE. and waDt then witnessed. All classes of the lower orders, cottars and crofters, letters and land-occupiers of every grade, were si- multaneously overwhelmed in the general calamity. The atten- tion of gentlemen, both clerical and lay, was speedily aroused. The clergy who were located in the regions of distress, and were eye-witnesses to scenes of hardship which they can never forget, lost no time in framing and forwarding representations of the ca- lamity to all and sundry in the kingdom, who, they supposed, could afford relief. The British capital was visited by a deputa- tion of gentlemen, who relinquished for a time their several avo- cations, and, with minds teeming with philanthropy, aroused the sympathies, and the noblest feelings of the English nation, by ap- peals adorned alike with eloquence and truth. Those appeals the benevolent English could not resist, and the amount of liberality displayed on that occasion surpasses all admiration and praise.* The primary cause of the late destitution was a redundancy of population, occasioned by an injudicious system of manage- ment. The error of the system of management lay in the frequency of early and improvident marriages, encouraged by the introduction of the lotting system, which, in its turn, gave rise to bad husbandry. These several causes operated on each other with mutual influence, and acted in concert against the prosperity of the inhabitants. The amount of population was rapidly increas- ing, while the amount of the means of support for each family was, in the same ratio, diminishing. Poverty was speedily making in- roads among the people, and the seeds of wretchedness at a future period were rapidly growing up. The natives, however, might have for years borne up under the pressure and influence of these unfavourable circunistances, had not other external causes come to operate in unison with those just mentioned, to reduce them with accelerated speed, to poverty. These other causes were the fall in the price of cattle, — the failure of herring-fisheries, — the cessa- tion of kelp manufacture, — and the want of remunerating employ- * The writer of this Account cannot omit to notice, that, by the indefatigable ex- ertions in this cause of the Her, Norman Maclcod, D. D. of St Columba^s, Glasgow, and John Bowie, Esq., W. S., Edinburgh,— these gentlemen have won themselves a title to lasting honour. They not only exerted themselves with devoted industry to procure relief for the distressed in the years of scarcity already referred to, but they still exert themselves, in their different spheres, to get the Highlanders esta- blished on such a footing as to prevent (under Providence) the recurrence of fimihr destitution. A reduction of the overgrown amount of population is the only reme- dy for this desirable end. The people themselves are sensible of it ; and the gentle* men just mentioned are so sensible of it, that they are even now using their utmost endeavours to obtaiu a boon so loudly called fcr. ISLAND OF 8KYE — KILMUIU. 273 ment The only preventive remedy is to reduce the population by a Government system of emigration. The proprietor and managers of this estate, fully sensible of the truth of these statements, have already made a bold stand to arrest the progress of the evils complained of. The subdivision of lots and crofts has been prevented. The possessor of a few acres of land is not permitted, as formerly, to cut them up in shreds and patches, to afford a new and separate dwelling for each of his sons and daughters who resolve to get married. The yearly average of marriages is therefore not one-fourth of what it was some years ago. Measures are therefore prudently adopted to en- large the possessions of the tenant, by adding the lands of such as emigrate to the adjoining allotments. Even this year (1840), a good deal has been accomplished in this way, as about 700 souls have emigrated to America from this and the adjoining parishes, by means of assistance which was benevolently afforded them by the Noble proprietor and the Edinburgh Destitution Committee. But much remains to be yet effected, were Government to see the propriety of removing the redundant population, so as to give am- ple scope to the working of the salutary system now introduced. Character of the People. — The character of the people is great- ly influenced by the effects of a redundancy of their number. These effects, however are so obvious, that they need not here be specified. Notwithstanding the many unfavourable circumstances under which the natives are placed, they are peaceable, orderly, and dis- tinguished for general good conduct. In no place can a popula- tion be found more hospitably inclined in their own humble way, or more kind and attentive to strangers. They are naturally shrewd and sensible, and possess considerable acuteness and viva- city of intellect. They are certainly a temperate people, and taint- ed with few vices. The language both spoken and preached is the Gaelic The higher orders, of course, speak English, and most of the young men partially understand it Although the Gaelic has perhaps lost no ground for half a century back, yet it has suffered materially in purity. As the young men resort annually to the south country in quest of employment, they invariably acquire a smattering of English, many words of which, they unfortunately intermix, by a sort of pride, with their own emphatic and venerable language. The Highland dress is now worn by none in the parish. Owing 274 INVERNES3-SH1RE. to the excess and poverty of the population, and the high price of wool, the natives, notwithstanding their exertions and industry, are generally but scantily^supplied with bed-clothes and wearing ap- parel. The females, for the most part, weave the country cloths of all kinds, and are very expert in dyeing all colours to much per- fection. The country people tan their own leather, sometimes with the bark of the birch tree, but for the most part with the roots of the Tormentilla vulgaris. They generally make their own shoes or brogues, which they finish very neatly with no sort of hempen thread, but with a thong cut from the dressed hide of a calf. Superstitions. — The age of superstition may be said to be now gone, as the vestiges which remain of it are but comparatively few, and have but little influence over the minds of the greater portion of the natives. At one period, however, the case was otherwise, when the existence of second-sight, and of other super- natural phenomena, was as firmly believed in the Hebrides, as the writings of the Apostle Paul. On this subject there have been many arguments, and keen discussions among the learned, and much has been written on both sides of the question. The person who had the misfortune to be gifted with the second- sight was called Taibhsear^ or seer. He was considered by him- self and others to be unhappily gifted, and on that account no one envied him for his unnatural .attainments. The visions were ge- nerally about shrouds, funerals, corpses, the appearance of friends or others, who were at the time in distant countries, — the arrival of strangers, swamping of boats, drowning at sea, dropping sud- denly dead, and numberless other subjects. The faculty which a taibhsear was said to possess had a strik- ing resemblance to the clairvoyance of the animal magnetists. Many astonishing cases might be mentioned of taibhsearachd, or second-sight, wherein it would appear impossible that either fraud or deception could exists It may, however, be naturally asked, if the gift was at one time so common, and if so many were, with so much certainty, possessed of it, why it has wholly disappeared from those very localities in which it was once so prevalent? Martin, in bis book on the Hebrides, alludes to many even in this parish who were, according to him, undoubted taibhsears ; but although we have now four individuals in the place, for every one individual in his day, we would look in vain among the whole population for a single taibhsear. ISLAND OF SKYE — KILMUIR. 275 Dr Beattie ascribes the pretended faculty to the influence of physical causes on superstitious and unenlightened minds. He endeavours to trace it to the effects which wild scenery, inter- spersed with valleys, mountains, and lakes, has upon the imagi- nation of the natives. But were this the case, second-sight would still exist, as the rocks, valleys, and mountain-scenery still exist as wild and fantastic as ever, to affect the imagination of the people. Others maintain that second-sight arose from optical il- lusions, and others from ignorance, the great mother of all super- stitions. It is remarkable, when Dr Samuel Johnson visited this Island in 1778, and heard a variety of plausible instances of the prophetic powers of the second-sight, that he gave credit to it, and expressed his surprise that it was disbelieved by the clergy, while all others were inclined to believe in its existence and truth** Somewhat analogous to the pretended faculty just described, yet different from it, are certain prognostications of death, which are seen in the shape of blue quivering lights, resembling the fee- ble flame of a taper. These have been observed moving along in the course which some funeral procession would soon thereafter take, or perhaps twinkling in or about the bed in which some in- dividual was soon to die. Of the existence of such lights, what- ever their cause, no shade of doubt can be entertained, as they have been frequently seen by several individuals at the same time, whose minds were tinctured neither by prejudice nor by the reve- ries of any superstition. Some time ago the natives flrmly believed in the existence of the " Gruagach," a female spectre of the class of Brownies, to whom the dairy-maids made frequent libations of milk. The <^ Gruagach" was said to be an innocent supernatural visitor, who frisked and gambolled about the pens and folds. She was armed only with a pliable reed, with which she switched any who would annoy her, either by uttering obscene language or by neglecting to leave for her a share of the dairy production. Even so late as 1770, the dairy-maids who attended a herd of cattle in the Island of Trodda, were in the habit of pouring daily a quantity of milk on a hollow stone for the " Gruagach." Should they neglect ta * Should the reader feel inclined to have more information about the second-sight, and to know the arguments for and against it, let him consult Martin's Book on the Hebrides; Maoleod of Hammer's do. on second>sight ; Theophilus Insulanus'a word on do. ; Dr Beattie's works ; Dr Samuel Johnson's do. ; General Stewart's Sketches on the Highlanders ; Dr Ferriar on Apparitions ; Sir J. G. Dalyell on the Darker Superstitions of Scotland, &c. 276 INVERNBSS-SIIIRE. do 80, they were sure of feeling the effects of Miss Brownie's wand next day. It is said that the Rev. Donald Macqueen, then minister of this parish, went purposely to Trodda to check that gross superstition. He might then have succeeded for a time in doing so, but it is known that many believed in the Gruagacb's ex- istence, long afier that Reverend gentleman's death. Besides the votaries of this ridiculous superstition, there are others who confidently believe in the existence of a malignant look, or evil eye, by which cattle and all kinds of property are said to suffer injury. The glance of an evil eye is consequently very much dreaded. No doubts are entertained that it deprives cows of their milk, and milk of its nutritive qualities, so as to render it unfit for the various preparations made from it This supersti- tion can certainly lay claim to great antiquity. ** Nescio quia teneros oculus mihi fascinat agnos.**— Viro. IV. — Industry. Apiculture, — The following table exhibits the contents of the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained : Arable. Green Pasture. A H, F A R F Steinscholl district, 1187 2 35 956 1 l' Kilmaluag district, 1036 2 27 1648 3 8 Kilmuir district, . 2603 5 1734 1 5 Hill pasture common to the whole parish^ Hill Pasture. A. R. F. 7160 2 24 614 1 38 244 36 Sum total. A. R. P. 9304 2 20 3299 3 33 4581 2 6 12101 2 8 Whole original parish, 29287 2 27 Immense tracts of waste ground are found in the place, which might be brought into cultivation by a proper system of manage- ment, at comparatively small expense. By means of trenching, and the application of lime, the agricultural value of the parish might be greatly enhanced. The average prices of the various commodities in the place, to- gether with the rates of labour, &c. are given as correctly as pos- sible in the following list : Rent of arable land per acre, 8s. Grazing and -wintering a cow or ox, L. 3. Grazing a ewe, or full-grown sheep, 48. Wages of male servants per annum, L. 5. Do. maid do. L. 2, lOs. Rate of labour per day, 1 s. 6d. Do. of country artisans per day, 2s. Do. masons, carpenters,&c. per day,28.6d. Butter per lb. 9d. Cheese per lb. 3td. Potatoes per barrel. Is. 9d. Oats per peck, Is. 2d. Small bearded-oats per peck, (now near« ly extinct) 6d. A barrel of cured herring, L. 1, 5t. Barley per peck. It. 2d. Oatmeal per sack of 280 imperial lbs. L.2. Barley. meal per do. L- 1, 12b. Sythe oil per gallon, 2s. 6d. Coarse country cloth per yard, 28* Strong home*hich formerly prevailed here, as well as in other parts of the Highlands, is wearing away. Such as pretended to be gifted with this supernatural quality seem now to think their first sight is quite sufficient for all necessary and useful purposes, without the aid of the second ; and that the reali- ties of the present world give them enough to do, without troub- ling themselves about what is going on in the world of spirits. Habits, — In cleanliness and other domestic comforts, there is ample room for improvement. The Highland dress is wholly extinct, and their clothing now consists of kelt or tartan of their own manufacture. The walls of their mean huts are commonly built of stones, and, instead of mortar or lime, the middle is cram- med with earth to keep out the cold air. The interior is divided into two or three apartments by a thin partition of boards, or a few small sticks woven with straw. The apartment next the door being appropriated to the cattle, is much lower than the rest of the house, in order to give room to the dung to accumulate, which is seldom removed oftener than once or twice a year. Of the other two apartments, one is the sitting-room of the family, and the other both bed-room and barn ; but some have a separate place for thrashing their corn. The fire is placed in the middle of the floor, and the smoke finds its way through a hole in the roof, or by the door. The leading articles of furniture, which is of the humblest despription, consist of a table of very rough workmanship, a few stools, two or three chairs, and an easy chair called sunnag^ made of straw, and the sole property of the goodwife. In the more respectable houses, there is along the wall a bench made in the form of a sofa, on which half-a-dozen of people can sit. In such as want this convenience, there is a row of stones covered with turf. The door is the principal aperture for the admission of air, which, as the cattle enjoy the benefit of it first, cannot be of the purest description when it reaches the rational inmates. Light is admitted through a few panes of glass placed in the thatch. Character, — The people are kind and hospitable as far as their limited means permit. The stranger is always a welcome guest. It must, however, unwillingly be acknowledged, that they do not live upon terms of such sincere and cordial friendship with one another as they did some thirty or forty years ago. Passions which interrupt the peace and harmony of the neighbourhood prevail ; petty thefts are on the increase ; litigations are more frequent ; and disputes, which used to be amicably settled ISLAND OF SKYK — SNIZOIIT. 293 through the intervention of kind friends and neighbours, are now brought for decision before courts of justice. For the truth of this statement, the great number of cases brought before the local courts is a suflScient proof. This decline of morals is chiefly to be attributed to their poverty. In consequence of the crowded state of the population, the tenants have sunk to the rank of let- ters, having but a small portion of the land which they occupied when there were but few to cultivate the soil. Want is driving many to seek in the wilds of America for the comforts denied them in their native land. The ordinary food of the peasantry consists of oat-bread, fish, and potatoes, the last of which constitutes the principal part of it. IV. — Industry. Jgriculture. — From the physical quality of its surface, a great part of this parish must remain an uncultivated waste. Pas- turage forms the principal employment of a great part of the in- habitants. Like the Germans of Tacitus, ^^ their pride consists in the number of their flocks and herds : these are their only riches, and in these they place their chief delight." Their cows are more celebrated for their fine symmetry, than for the quantity of * milk which they yield. On the large farms, agriculture is now conducted on scientific principles. Carts, ploughs, and other im- proved implements of husbandry have been introduced, and the system of cropping in rotation is practised to a considerable extent. But on the small lots, the mode of tillage pursued is tedious and extremely defective. Crooked ridges, stretching in every direction, and separated by broad useless spaces, from which the soil has been scraped to enrich the arable portion, meet the eye. The soil is broken up by the caschrom^ and when sown is harrowed by women, who are also employed in carrying out the manure in creels to the field, and other drudgeries of the same nature. It cannot but give pain to every benevolent mind to see not only young women whose delicate frame should exempt them from such hard labours, but even mothers employed as beasts of bur- den. Fisheries. — There is a fishing-station at the head of Loch Sni- zort, where salmon are caught. Several tons of cod and ling are annually sent to Glasgow and Liverpool. The herring-fishing at one time, besides aflbrding a plentiful supply of provisions to the people, formed a very lucrative article of commerce. Herrings were, some years ago, caught in such abundance in the y ares or cairidliSj (large circular mounds erected at the head of tVv^ ^"k^^ '294 INVERNESS-SHIRE. in shallow water), as to become a nuisance before they could be salted ; but now they seldom visit the coast. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication^ — There is an excellent road running through the whole length of the parish, and affording an easy communication with Portree, the nearest market-town ; and there is a receiving-house at Uigg, to ^hich the Harris packet comes once a-week for the mails. Ecclesiastical State, — The church, which is situated at the head of Loch Snizort, near the southern extremity of the parish, was built about forty years ago. It was originally intended to accom- modate 450 sitters; but, from the great increase of population, being considered too small, it was lately enlarged by the addi- tion of 300 sittings ; the expense of which was defrayed by private subscription. The manse, which is 'situated near the church, was built at the same time, and has lately undergone repairs. The stipend amounts to L. 150, and the value of the glebe is about L. 15 a -year. The minister of the parish preaches also every third Sunday at Uigg, one of the most destitute localities in the Highlands. The Antipaedobaptists, who are the only Dissenters in the parish, have a meeting-house here, and have been making some converts ; but, from recent events, there is reason to believe that their progress is more rapid than lasting. There are not more than thirtv members in full communion with their church. Education. — Besides the parish school, there are two other schools in the parish, one at Uigg, on the Assembly's scheme, and the other called Macdermid's Institution, from the name of the benevolent individual who endowed it, in the district of Borve. Mr Donald Macdermid, late of South Carolina, bequeathed L. 1000 to endow a school in Borve, where he was born, for the purpose of teaching English, writing, and arithmetic gratis to the poor children of that district. In building a suitable school- house, and improving an acre of land for the schoolmaster, about L.200 were expended by the trustees, which lessened considera- bly the original fund ; yet, by accumulation of interest and good management, they expect to give a salary of L.35 to the school- master, who is allowed to take moderate fees from such scholars as can afford them. The school is in high repute and numerous- ly attended. Lord Macdonald's factor, the ministers of Portree, Snizort, Kilmuir, and Donald Macdonald, Esq. of Skeabost, his ISLAND OF SKYE — BUACADALE. 295 heirs and successors, are trustees, with unlimited power as to the management of the school, and appointment of the teacher. Ow- ing to the poverty of the people, the fees in each of these schools are very inconsiderable. Fuel. — The fuel is peats, which the women carry home in creels on their backs, from a very great distance. April 1840. PARISH OF BRACADALE. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLEKELQ. THE REV. JOHN R. GLASS, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of the parish, which appears to be com- pounded of the Celtic adjective breac (spotted,) and the Norse word dale (field,) has been the same from time immemorial. Extent — Its length is about 20, and its extreme breadth about 8 miles. Boundaries^ tfc. — It is bounded on the south and south-west by the sea ; on the north, by the parish of Duirinish ; on the east, by the parishes of Snizort and Portree; and on the south-east, by the parish of Strath. Its form is very irregular, being intersected by arms of the sea in various directions. The only hills in it of par- ticular interest are part of that ranged called Coullin, stretching along the boundary between it and the parish of Strath, and so justly celebrated for their picturesque appearance ; and a hill call- ed Priosmheallj overhanging the farm-house of Tallisker. But the surface is in general very hilly. In that district of the parish called Minginish, there are various valleys which form almost the only low and flat lands ; but that of Tallisker b the only one worthy of particular remark, its forma- tion being highly romantic, and its soil particularly fertile. In the other district, there are several detached fields along the coast * Drawn up by the Rev. Roderick Macleod, formerly Minister of Bracadalc, now of Snizort. 296 INVEWNESS-SHIUE. The extent of coast is probably about 60 miles : it is flat in some places, but, for the most part, high and rocky. In the bays the shore is either sandy or clayey ; but in the more exposed parts of the coast very rough and stony. The principal bays are Lochs Bracadale and Eynort, both af- fording safe and commodious anchorage to vessels of any burden. The head-lands are Rhuandunan, the southernmost point of the parish, and Tallisker-head to the west, at the southern entrance of Loch Bracadale. The islands are Soay, Wiay, and Taarner ; the first lying about south-east by east of the point of Rhuandu- nan, opposite to Loch Skavaig, at the head of which is the cele- brated Coiruisffy (for a description of which and the surrounding scenery, the reader is referred to the notes appended to Sir Wal- ter Scott's poem of the Lord of the Isles) ; the two last lying at the mouth of Loch Bracadale, opposite Tallisker-head to the north. 11. — Civil History. Land-owner. — Macleod of Macleod is sole proprietor. Parochial Register. — The parochial register is but of a recent date, and is as regularly kept as the present state of the law will admit ; for, without a legislative enactment rendering it imperative on par- ties to register births and deaths, no regularity can ever be expect- ed in the matter. Antiquities, — There are no antiquities worthy of notice, unless it be the ruins of two circular towers, the most entire of wliich is close by, and seen from, the Parliamentary road, about a mile and a-half from the manse northwards. Modem Buildinffs.-r-The only modern buildings are the church, a distillery, two slated houses on feued ground lately built, and some farm-houses, all of the ordinary materials. III. — Population. At the time of the last Statistical Account, the population was 2250 souls. By the last census it was 1769, and since that pe- riod there has been a farther decrease. This decrease is solely to be ascribed to the system of farming which has for some time been adopted, viz. throwing a number of farms into one large tack for sheep-grazing, and dispossessing and setting adrift the small tenants. The aYcrage number of persons under 15 years of age is 589 betwixt 15 and aO, - 565 so and 50, - 295 50 and 70, . 221 upwards of 70, - 57 BIIACADALE. 297 There is only one gentleman of supposed independent fortune residing in the parish. There are about 20 unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers upwards of fifty years of age, and about 150 unmarried women upwards of forty* five years of age. The average number of chil^ dren in each family is 4. Language. — The language generally spoken is Gaelic ; and it has lost no ground within the last forty years. Habits ofthM People, — The habits of the people are far from cleanly. In their dress, they are not diflferent from the other inhabi- tants of the Hebrides ; and as to their food they are generally not considered ill provided, who can feed on potatoes and salt; and dur* ing the last season even that would have been a luxury to many of them. Regarding their comforts as to clothing, it may be suflS- cient to mention, that, when it was apprehended the cholera would spread to these quarters, inquiries were directed to be made on this point, and there were 140 families found in the parish who had no change of night or day-clothes. From the above remarks as to food and clothing, it must appear evident, that the people are far from enjoying the ordinary comforts of society ; and, un- der such circumstances, it is but natural they should feel discon- tented with their situation ; and if their complaints are not more loudly heard, one great reason is, that the system of farming pur- sued has placed them in such absolute dependence on the tacks- men, as to preclude any hope of amelioration. Charaeter.'-^Tlie people, in general, are shrewd and sagacious, and manifest a good degree of intellect as to the ordinary afiairs of life ; as to morality and religion, it is yet but a day of small things. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The number of arable acres, according to survey, is 4878 ; of pasture and hill- grazing, 68^811. From the system of farming already mentioned, the proportion of the arable ground in cultivation is inconsiderable. There is no arable land rented separately. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 3 per cow, and at the rate of 2s. 6d. per ewe for the year. Leases. — The general duration of leases is fifteen years. The staple produce of the parish is sheep and cattle, on the rearing of which considerable attention is bestowed. Of sheep, there are annually exported about 4500, and of black-cattle about 450. INVERNESS. U '298 INVKRNFSS-SHIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — There is a post-office at Struan^ about half a mile west from the manse, close by the Parliamentary road, which, from one end of the parish to the other, is in extent about twenty miles. The road and bridges are always kept in good repair. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated in a hollow spot of ground on the north side of a small arm of Loch Braca-i dale, called Lochbeg, within a few yards of the public road, about a quarter of a mile below the manse, as conveniently ds it could well be placed ; the greater part of the population being dis- tant six miles from the northern, and about fourteen miles from the southern extremity of the parish. It was built in 1831, and affords accommodation to between 500 and 600 sitters. The sit- tings are all free. The manse was built about forty years ago, and received some additions and repairs in 1828. The glebe contains about 30 acres, and its value is about L. 15. The amount of the stipend is L. 150. There is one missionary supported by the Royal Bounty. There is a catechist supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. Divine service is always well attended. The average number of communicants is about 20. Education, — There are five schools in the parish ; the paro- chial school, and other four schools, supported partly by societies, and partly by private subscriptions. The branches generally taught, are, Gaelic, English, writing, and arithmetic The sa- lary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 28. Those of the rest vary from L. 8 to L. 25. The amount of school fees, in all cases, is merely nominal. The parish schoolmaster is provided with the legal accommodation. The general expense of education is quite trifling. The number of the young between six and fifteen years of age who cannot write or read is nearly 400 ; the number of persons upwards of fifteen years who cannot read or write is near 800. The people, in general, are not so much alive to the benefits of education as could be wished ; at the same time, their poverty is such as to prevent them from following up their inclination in tliat respect, even to the degree in which it exists. There are some parts of the parish with a considerable popula- tion, several miles distant from any school. Two or three schools BRACADALE. 299 would supply this deficiency. The Gaelic schools, wherever they have been established, have evidently been instrumental in pro- moting the interests of morality and religion. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 64. The average sum allotted to each person is between 4s. and 5s. ; the annual amount of contribu- tion is L. 20, 12s.; of which L. 7 arise from church collections, L. 10 from a bequest, and L. 3, 12s. from money at interest To receive parochial relief was, till of late, almost universally consi- dered as degrading ; but that feeling is now rapidly giving way. There is an annual tryst held within the parish in the month of September. ^feAou5e«.— There are five licensed whisky houses; and whisky is retailed in various other places within the parish, to the mani- fest injury of the temporal interests of the people, and the pro- gressive and sure destruction of their morals. FueL — The only fuel used in the parish, except in gentlemen's houses, is peat. Miscellaneous Obsbrvations. The most striking variations betwixt the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, are, 1. The formation of a Parliamentary road, which goes nearly over its whole length : 2. The system of farming for some time followed, of several farms being thrown into one graz- ing: d. The erection and establishment of a whisky distillery. The first of these variations is a decided benefit to the parish ; the second, as decided a disadvantage to its general population ; and the third, one of the greatest curses which, in the ordinary course of Providence, could befall it or any other place. December 1840. PARISH OF STRATH. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. JOHN MACKINNON, MINISTER. 1, — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish is known by the names of Srath Mhic Jonmhuinrij or Mackinnon's valley, and of Strath'Swordale^ from the Gaelic word Srathj signifying a valley through which a river runs, and Swordale^ a place situated in the centre of the parish. But, for the sake of brevity, it is always called Strath. Exterd and Boundaries. — The extreme length of the parish may be estimated at about 26 miles, and its mean breadth at about 6 miles. It is bounded on the north, by the parish of Portree ; on the south, by the parish of Sleat ; on the east, by the sea, which divides it from the mainland of Applecross and Lochalsh ; and on the west, by the parish of Bracadale. Topographical Appearances. — To the admirer of nature, this pa- rish presents objects of noordinary interest. On its western boun- dary is situated a landscape of unparalleled grandeur. No place, perhaps, affords more picturesque subjects for the painter than parts of this parish. In it he meets with such prodigality of natural won- ders, that he must feel as if bewildered, and at a loss to make a choice. The scenery shifts at every step, and each successive view seems to excel the rest. The cloud-capped Cuillin raises its inacces- sible pinnacles beyond the other mountains, and is visible in almost every part of the island. Next in order Marsco, Blatk-Bheinn and Beilig shoot themselves forth in every variety of fantastic figure and appearance, each struggling for supremacy with its ^ neighbour, and each possessing every imaginable characteristic of native rudeness and grandeur. On entering the Bay of Scavaig, the spectator is struck with the rugged outline presented by the spiry and serrated peaks of the lofty Cuillin. On landing, he finds himself surrounded by rocks denuded of every vestige of vegeta- tion. As he advances, a valley, enclosed by mountains of the most precipitous character, opens to the view, thus encircling and form- ISLAND OF SKYE — STRATH. 30 1 ing the dark lake of QSir-Uisge, which is here and there studded with small green islands, contrasting remarkably with the surround* ing barrenness. ■ Rarely human eye has known A scene so stern as that dread lake. With its dark ledge of barren stone. Seems that primeval earthquakes sway Had rent a strange and shatter*d way Through the rude bosom of the hill. And that each naked precipice, Sable ravine, and dark abyss,^ Tells of tlie outrage still. The wildest glen, but this, can show Some touch of nature's glow ; On high Benmore green mosses grow, And heath bells bud in deep Glencroe, And copse on Cruachan-Ben ; But here, above, around, below, On mountain or in glen, Nortree— nor shrub.— nor plant— nor flower. Nor aught of vegetative power The weary eye may ken. For all is rocks at random thrown* Black waves— bare crags — and banks of stone. As if were here denied. The summer sun, thd spring's sweet dew. That clothe with many a varied hue The bleakest mountain side. — Lord of the Isles. A few miles to the south of this scene is a cave which has of late been frequently resorted to by travellers, from being one of the numerous places of refuge occupied by Prince Charles Ed- ward Stuart during his eventful career. Proceeding again to the northward, we soon reach the far-famed Spar-cave of Strathaird. Here we have another most striking specimen of nature's grandest workmanship. Every visitor must admire this lof^y vaulted cave, resplendent with pure white icicles of semitransparent spar, — and having its roof supported, and its sides decorated, with massive co- lumns and drapery of the same sparkling material. At the inmost recess, is a circular pond formed of shining spar, which nature has located there as a reservoir to contain the water which oozes through chinks of the roof. But of this fairy spot a more correct idea may be formed from the following lively description of it** • « The first entrance to this celebrated cave,*' says the author of Waverley, ** is rude and unpromising ; but the light of the torches with which we were provided was soon reflected from the roof, floor, and walls, which seem as if they were sheeted with marble— partly smooth, partly rough— seeming to be wrought into statuary. The floor forms a steep and diflBcult ascent, and might be &ncifully compared to a sheet of water which, while it rushed whitening and foaming down a declivity, had been suddenly arrested by the spell of an enchanter. Upon attaining the summit of the ascent, the cave opens into a splendid gallery, adorned with the most dasiling crystal- lizations, and finally descends with rapidity to the brink of a pool of the most lim- 302 INVERNESS- SHIRE. Meteorology. — The prevailing winds are the south and south- west, which generally prognosticate rain. North and east winds, on the contrary, are in summer the harbingers of fine weather, — but in winter of sleet, frost, and snow. The climate is cold, damp, and changeable ; and the complaints over which it may be said to exercise any influence, are, as may be supposed, acute rheumatism, pleuritic affections, consumption, and other pulmonary ailments. From the purity of the atmosphere, however, as well as from the refreshing nature of the sea air, the climato must be acknowledged upon the whole to be salubrious. Hydrography. — The parish presents an irregular figure, being much intersected by arms of the sea, all of which afibrd safe and commodious anchorage for ships of any burden. Fresh water springs are both numerous and copious. Many of them are strongly impregnated with iron. It also abounds with lakes, which, though of inconsiderable extent, are well stocked with trout, and some of them with salmon. Geology, — The mountains chiefly consist of trap and syenite ; the lower grounds and valleys of limestone. A bed of marl of the finest quality extends across the parish from the farm of Tor- ran on Loch Slappen, to Skinidean on the Sound of Scalpay. In some localities, the calcareous strata are to be found alter- nating with brown calcareous sandstone, and with shale, contain- ing the organic remains of fish and shell-fish. In the Island of Pabbay, on the eastern shore of the parish, petrified fish, princi- pally eels, from six to eighteen inches long, have been found in a high state of preservation. A variety of other kinds of fish, and also oysters, mussels, welks, and limpets, are frequently met with in the same state. From the head of Loch Slappen, a considerable alluvial deposit may be traced through the valley of Strathmore to Loch Eynort. Near Kyleakin, a deposition of greater importance occurs, occu- pying a space of about a mile along the shore. Dr MacCulloch regarded this as the remains of a plain formerly much more ex- tensive. He says that it exhibits the appearances which charac- terize the alluvial valleys through which active rivers have cut their way ; and that the supposition of this being the result of the pkl water, about four or five yards broad. This pool, surrounded by the most fanciful mouldings in a substance resembling white marble, and distinguished by the depth and purity of its waters, might have been the bathing grotto of a iV^/fo^."— Note V. Canto HI. of the Lord of the Isles. ISLAND OF SKYE STRATH. 303 decay of the mountains which back the plain, is invalidated by the presence of gneiss, hornblende, and schist, which do not occur in these mountains. Zoology. — Mammalia. — Red-deer abound in Lord Macdonald's forest ; and roe-deer are to be found in the woods. We have the fox and wild-cat, both particularly destructive to lambs, game, and poultry. We have likewise the weasel ; but the only polecat ever seen in the island was some years ago killed in this parish^ in the vicinity of one of the ferries to the mainland. From this circumstance, it is probable that it might have unobserved found its way across in the ferry-boat. The otter and seal are common, and are very destructive to salmon. Land Birds. — These are, grouse, black-game, ptarmigan, and partridges, the eagle, and a variety of hawks ; the raven, the hood* ed-crow, &c. &c. A grouse with white wings was last season shot on the property of Mr Macalister of Strathaird, and a rook with white wings has been observed in the parish. Aquatic Birds. — Wild geese, the cormorant, the scart, the teal, the mallard, the tern or sea-swallow, and a variety of gulls. Waders. — The heron, the water-hen, the corn -rail, the wood- cock, the snipe, the golden plover, the lapwing, &c. The corn-^ rail appears Qarly in May, and takes its departure in September. The woodcock appears early in October, and leaves early in March. Fishes. — These are, the salmon and trout, which ascend the rivers for spawning about the middle of September, and are suppos- ed to return to the sea in February : the cod, haddock, whiting, ling, lythe, coal- fish, skate, sand-eel, conger-eel, thornback, floun- der, sole, and, occasionally, a John Doree ; the angler or sea-devil, ihe grey and red gurnard, the mullet, the dog-fish, the king-fish, and cuttle-fish, &c. Shell-Fish. — At the Sound of Scalpay there is an extensive bed of oysters of a superior quality, but of small size. We have also the mussel, the cockle, the razor-fish, the welk, the crab, the limpet, and the lobster ; all of which are of considerable import- ance in an economical point of view, being much used as food by the lower orders during the summer months in particular, and du- ring seasons of scarcity in general. Botani/.-^The only plants peculiar to this parish are the rare Eriocaulon septan gulare ; and the Dryas octopetala of tho limestone, which occurs in great profusion. All the varieties of planted 304 INVERNESS-SHIRE. timber thrive well when duly fenced and properly preserved. An ash has beep observed to grow nearly four feet in the course of one season. Of all the indigenous timbers, the soil seems most congenial to ash, birch, and haiel. Apples, pears, cherries, goose- berries, and currants thrive well, and are found in all the gardens. It is evident that the pine must have, at some remote period, been a native of the parish, as the trunks of fir trees of considerable size are found deeply imbedded in the moss in different parts of it. II. — Civil History. This parish is known to have been, as far back as the year 1354, the family property of the Mackinnons, who took a prominent part in the turbulent proceedings of that period, as well as in the more recent disturbances of 1715 and 1745. The Mackinnon of that day, who espoused the cause of the Pretender, was arrested and taken to London to stand his trial for high treason ; and, after being confined for nearly twelve months in Tilbury Fort, the Go- vernment, in consideration of his advanced age, and seeing that he had been involved in these revolts rather from a spirit of chi- valry than of rebellion, set him at large, with liberty to return home. Being reminded by Sir Dudley Ryder, then Attorney- General, of tbe debt of gratitude which he owed to his sovereign for this act of clemency, when, by rebellion, he had forfeited both his life and property, Mackinnon quaintly replied, ^* Had I the King in my power, as I am in his, I would return him the com- pliment, by sending him back to his own country." William Alexander Mackinnon, Esq. M. P. for Lymington, and author of a work of great merit on Public Opinion, now represents the an- cient family of Mackinnon. The late Colonel Mackinnon of the Coldstream Guards, so well known for the elegance of his man- ners, and for his extraordinary feats of strength and agility, as well as for his distinguished bravery during the peninsular war, and in the ever memorable battle of Waterioo, was brother to the present chief. General Henry Mackinnon, so frequently and honourably mentioned in the Duke of Wellington's Despatches, and who fell at Cuidad Roderigo, after having in the most gallant style secured possession of that fortress, was his uncle. Land'oumers, — The only heritors in the parish are Lord Mac- donald and Mr Macalister of Strathaird. This parish, originally the property of Mackinnon, was purchased about eighty years ago by the Trustees of the great and good Sir James Macdonald, then a minor, from the Trustees of Mackinnon of Mackinnon, when a ISLAND OF 8KYE — STRATH. ' 30S minor also. The sale was afterwards reduced by the Court of Session, but, on s^peal to the House of Lords, it was confirm* ed« Although the people at the time, from feelings of clanship and attachment to their chieftain, were much displeased with the decision which had been come to by the House of Lords, yet they had no cause to regret the change, as each successive proprietor of the Noble family of Macdonald was invariably kind, attentive, and indulgent to their tenants ; and it is pleasant to observe, that the young and Noble Lord who now represents that ancient family, promises fairly to walk in the footsteps of his truly excellent pre- decessors. The property of Strathaird was purchased fifty-four years ago by Mr Macalister, who likewise proved a most kind and indulgent proprietor. He is now represented by his grandson, Mr Macalister of Loup, in Argyleshire, — a young man of much promise. Parochial Register. — The earliest entry in the parochial regis- ter is dated 1821 ; from that period it has been regularly kept* Antiquities* — There are the remains of several places of wor- ship, which were, in all probability, erected by the Culdees, who are well known to have, many centuries ago, built a great number of *^ Cills," or places of worship throughout the Hebrides, which they invariably dedicated to the most renowned of their saints. There is one at a place in the parish called *^ Ashig." But there can be no doubt that it was primarily dedicated to Saint Asaph, which appellation was gradually corrupted into Ashig. There is also one at Kilbride, (St Bride); one at Kilmarie, (cella Ma^ ricBf or St Mary's) ; and one in the Island of Pabbay. On the farm of Boreraig, we have Teampull Choaiuy or the Temple of St Coan ; and in the Island of Scalpay, Teampull Frangaig^ or the Temple of St Francis. In front of the minister's house, there are the ruins of a place of worship ; and close to it stands a rude obelisk of granite, about ten feet high, perfect* ly erect. It is known by the appellation of Clach na h-Annaity that is, the stone of Annat, — a goddess mentioned by mytholo* gists. Near this stone, is a copious well of excellent water, call- ed Tobar na h^Annait^ or Annan's Fountain, in which it is proba- ble the worshippers purified themselves. It frequently happens that the purest and most copious springs of water are dedicated by such worshippers to their tutelary saints ; and among the excellent springs with which this parish abounds one is considered superior to all, and is called Tobar Ashiffy or St Asaph's Well. We have 306 INVERNESS-SHIRE. also Tohar Chliamen^ or St Clement's Well. The principal place of worship was at Kilchrist, evidently Cella Christie — a burying- ground consecrated to Christ. This is in the centre of the pa- rish ; but, being found inconvenient on account of its remoteness from the more populous part of it, the new and handsome church, now building, is situated at Broad ford. On the west side of the parish are the ruins of seven Danish forts or duns. They are situated on high rocks or lofty head- lands, and were built without iportar. One of them was always built in view of one cr more of the rest, so that the first alarm of an approaching foe was almost instantaneously communicated to the whole country by the Crois-tdraidh or fiery-cross ; being a rude process of telegraphing by fire the intelligence of an enemy's ap- proach. This watch-fire was lighted on the tower from which the danger was first discerned. The process was repeated by the next tower in view, and so on until the intimation was transmitted with inconceivable celerity throughout the whole chain of towers with which the country was surrounded. On the east side are a number of tumuli, and in all of them which have been opened stone-cofiins, containing human bones or urns full of ashes, have been found. In these urns, small copper coins have generally been discovered. An urn, containing ashes and bones partially burnt, and a very thin copper coin, was found when digging the foundation of the minister's house. It is very probable that those whose remains were thus disturb- ed were strangers, and that the coins were de|)osited for the pur- pose of purchasing a right to the burying-ground. This opinion is greatly corroborated by the fact, that, in many parts of the High- lands still, when the remains of a stranger are committed to the dust, a coin is usually thrown into the grave^ so that he may, by purchase, acquire an undisputed right to his resting-place. A great variety of coins have been dug up at different times and places ; but, owing to their being much defaced, it could not be as- certained to what period they belonged. A coin of the reign of Henry VIIL, in a state of high preservation, was recently turned up on the glebe, and is now in the possession of the incumbent. Near the village of Broadford there is a cairn or barrow, in which a very remarkable vault has been discovered. It is arched in with a concave roof, having its top covered with a flag. This curious little chamber is securely although rudely built with stone, without any lime or mortar, and is of sufficient dimensions to permit ISLAND OF SKYE — STRATH. 307 a person to stand in it erect It was evidently the burying-place of some renowned character of old, and within it was found a rude buckle, probably belonging to the shroud of the person consigned to the dust ; and also a dark-green stone, about four inches long by two and a half in breadth, a quarter of an inch in thickness, and beautifully polished. It had a hole perforated in each corner, with one side partially concave, and the other convex. It appear- ed like an ornament belonging to the Highland belt. This stone and buckle were given to the late Donald Gregory, Esq., Secretary to the Antiquarian Society, Edinburgh. Eminent Men, — I am not aware that this parish ever gave birth to any person eminently distinguished in any walk of life. Some, however, were born in it, who have by their own merits attained a high and honourable rank in the army. Sir John Macdonald, the present Adjutant-General of Her Majesty's Forces, is son to the late Mr Macdonald, tacksman of Scalpay, an island belonging to this parish ; as was also Colonel Archibald Macdonald, who held the same situation in India ; and a third and no less distinguished member of the same familv? Colonel Alexander Macdonald of the Horse Artillery, whose devotion to his profession, as well as his bravery at the taking of Monte Video, the Cape of Good Hope, the whole of the peninsular war, and the battle of Waterloo, re- peatedly gained for him the approbation of the Duke of Welling- ton and Lord Hill. Colonel Macdonald is now Governor of Hon* duras. Modem Buildings. — The houses of the tacksmen are comfort- able and commodious, yielding in this respect to none of the same class in the Highlands. A village was commenced at Kyleakin, under the auspices of the late Lord Macdonald, but, from the want of capital in the country, it has made little, or no progress. There are, however, about a dozen of good slated houses at this place, including some shops, and a very comfortable well-kept inn. At Broadford, there are likewise a good inn, two shops, a mill, and a smithy. III. — Population. PopuUUon in 1801, . 1748 1811, 2107 1821, 2619 1831, 2962 Within the last forty years, the population of this parish has been more than doubled. In 1837, it amounted to 3450 souls ; but since that period, about 200 have emigrated to Australia. 308 INVERNESS-SIIIRE. The great increase of the population is to be attributed to the lotting system, by which tenants are supplied with small portions of land inadequate for their support But this is not all, for the possessions which were originally too contracted, were subsequently subdivided by the parents among the various members of the fa- mily as they got married. There was in this manner an accumu- lation of houses and families without any means for their support, or any prospect of comfort. This evil (for evil it must be called, when three, and in many cases four families are to be found occu- pying the lands which were originally barely sufficient for the sup- port of one family,) has been, and will continue to be productive of the worst effects here, as well as over a great part of the High- lands. And unless some method be devised to provide for the superfluous population, and to check its increase in future, the most disastrous consequences may be anticipated. Language. — Gaelic is the language of the country, and that for the most part preached ; but of late, in consequence of the con- stant intercourse held by the natives with the low country, it is very much corrupted with a mixture of English words and phrases. Habits and State of the People, — It is to be regretted that the people have not more regard to cleanliness. The cattle and poultry are generally to be found undef the same roof with the rational inmates, and separated only by a tallan or partition, for the most part made of stone or wattled-work, a few feet iu height. They wear home-made woollen clothes, and are very expert at dyeing almost all colours. Their diet chiefly consists of potatoes and herrings, occasionally varied with meal and milk. They are, however, contented with their condition, and, singular to relate, contemplate with uneasiness a permanent removal from their na- tive soil. As their possessions are too limited to afford employment for all who are located on them, almost all the young men leave the country annually, and resort to the south, in vast numbers, in quest of any employment which they may procure. In the same man- ner, many of the young women go to the Lothians in harvest to procure employment in reaping. They are generally most mind- ful and attentive in sending a part of their earnmgs home to their parents, to pay the rents, as well as for other useful purposes. C/uiracter, — They are, with few exceptions, of sober and cor- rect habits, — charitable to their less fortunate neighbours, — hos- pitable and attentive to strangers, — and obedient and respectful ISLAND OF SKYK — STRATH. 309 to their superiors. Flagrant breaches of the peace are almost un- known, there being but two instances on record of criminal prose- cutions against natives of this parish. . Longevity. — We have had several instances of longevity. A woman of the name of Mary Innes, a native of Ross-shire, died here some years ago at the advanced age of 1 10. The father of the present incumbent, who was for sixty-five years an ordained clergymen, and fifty-two years minister of this parish, died at the age of ninety-six, and to the last retained all his faculties unim- paired. Mr Macalister of Strathaird, died at the age of eighty* nine, and his sister, who departed this life last winter, attained the age of ninety-two. There are a few others now living between eighty and ninety years of age ; and one man in his eighty- fourth year, who never wore any dress but the kilt, and this year walk- ed twenty-four miles in one day. The number of illegitimate children for the last three years has been four. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Liord Macdonald's property in this parish con- sists of 54,768 acres, of which about 1800 are arable, 594 under wood, and the rest almost entirely green and hill pasture. The estate of Strathaird consists of 16^000 acres, of which about 300 are arable, and the remainder green and hill pasture. It is ob- served, that, where limestone abounds, the pasture is invariably rich and luxuriant ; but where whin and granite prevail, it is of very in- ferior quality. Husbandry. — The only grain raised is oats and bear. The cul- tivation of wheat has been attempted, but with no prospect of ade- quate remuneration. Potatoes, however, form the principal crop. They are planted in April and May, and are manured chiefly with sea-ware. In favourable seasons they yield an increase of about ten returns ; but even in the most favourable years, the supply is inadequate to the wants of the population. It is a remarkable fact, that in wet sea- sons, the quality of the potatoes is much superior to what it is in dry seasons, although the quantity is diminished. Turnips and clover are cultivated, and are found amply to remunerate the far- mer from their efficacy in the prevention of braxy. A consi- derable quantity of waste land was reclaimed by the late Mr Mackinnon of Corry. The district in the neighbourhood of his residence afforded the means of carrying on improYements, such 310 INVERNESS-SHIRE. as sea-ware, lime, marl, and shell-sand ; and of these facilities he amply availed himself, as did his active and vigorous mind of every thing that could benefit the country. He also did much in the way of draining, fencing, and enclosing his fields, as well as in plant- ing hedges and hedge-rows, which are now in a thriving condition. Although the crofting system was in many respects baneful and injurious, yet it had the perceptible advantage of improving the aspect of the country, as each crofter, by having a small allotment for himself, was anxious to turn it to the best account, which could not be efiected by the old run -rig system. Bone dust has been used with encouraging success, and amply remunerated the expense of applying it. Rent of Land, — The value of arable land may be estimated at 10s. per acre. The grazing of a cow at L.2, 10s. per annum^ and of a sheep at 2s. 6d« Wages. — Good fiirm-servants receive from L.6 to L.10 per an- num ; women from L.2, 10s. to L.3, 10s. ; carpenters and masons about 2s. per day with their victuals. Shepherds, instead of money wages, are generally allowed a house, 6^ bolls of meal ; the graz- ing of two cows, and of from 40 to 60 sheep per annum. Live-Stock. — The principal sheep stocks are of the Cheviot breed'; but there are some small flocks of the black- faced descrip- tion, which are esteemed more hardy. To the improvement of each breed their respective owners pay particular attention. A breed of black-cattle, of the most exquisite symmetry and beauty, was produced by the late 'Mr Macdonald of Scalpay and the late Mr Mackinnon of Corry, who, by much attention and expense in the selection of breeding stock, raised their cattle to a value never before attained in this country. The cattle of the small tenants in this parish are superior to those reared in the northern districts of the island, in consequence of their stocks having been always supplied with bulls by the individuals already mentioned. Quarries. — Freestone and marble, which abound in this parish, have been worked by Lord Macdonald, the former for building, and the latter for architectural ornaments in his elegant castle at Armadale. The marble quarries have also been worked by the Duke of Hamilton for paving the lobby of Hamilton Palace, and by the Board of Ordnance for powder-mill stones. It was, how- ever, abandoned by the Board, from the impracticability of finding blocks sufficiently large for their purpose. A lime-kiln is in operation in the vicinity of Broadford, which ISLAND OF SK YE— STRATH. 31 1 supplies an extensive district with lime of a superior quality. To the public it is sold at 9d. per boll ; but Lord Macdonald, with his usual attention to the interests of his tenants, binds the lessee of the lime kiln to supply them with lime for building at 6d. ; and for land at 4d. per boll. Fisheries. — The herring-fishing was at one time so productive in the bays of the parish, that 60 or 70 vessels, averaging about 40 tons, were annually engaged in it, and many of them carrying away several cargoes in the course of the year. It is still prose- cuted with considerable vigour, but for many years back with very indifferent success ; so much so, indeed, that where 60 or 70 vessels could formerly be loaded in a few weeks, one could not now be loaded in the course of a whole season. The failure of this most important source of emolument to many a poor and industrious fisherman on the west coast, is coeval with, and by many ascribed to the destruction of such countless multi- tudes of this prolific fish at the spawning season, on the east coast of Scotland. The cod and ling fishing is carried on during the months of January, Februacy^ March, and April. In favourable years, those engaged in it realize from L. 3 to L. 4 per man, be- sides having an abundant supply of other fish for the use of their own families. Salmon-fishing is carried on, but not on a very ex- tensive scale. It closes on the 14th of September, and does not generally commence until the middle of MayT V. — Parochial Economy. Alarket^Town. — At Broadford three markets are annually held for the sale of black-cattle and horses. Means of Communication. — Broadford is likewise a post-town, where the mails arrive and are despatched three times a week. Within the incumbent's recollection, letters from London took ten days in reaching Broadford, but now they arrive there on the third night. From Broadford the mails are carried across Kyleakin ferry, by a runner to Liochcarron, whence they are conveyed to Dingwall by a gig, having accommodation for the conveyance of passengers. About thirty miles of Parliamentary road, and ten of statute la« bour, pass in different directions through the parish. During the summer and harvest months we have a regular weekly communi- cation with Glasgow by steam-boats ; but in winter they ply only once a fortnight. Not many years ago, the voyage from Skye to the Clyde generally occupied from ten to fifteen days, while now it is usually performed in about thirty-six hours. 312 INVKUNESS-SHIRE. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated in the burying* ground of Kilchrist, and might accommodate about 200 sitters. It is very old, and was formerly a Roman Catholic place of wor- ship. It is now in a very ruinous condition, so much so, indeed, that for nearly two years back there has been no preaching in it. A very handsome and commodious church, to be seated for 600, has just been commenced at Broadford, as being a locah'ty more accessible to the bulk of the population. In the district of Strath- aird, in which divine service is performed every third Sabbath, a comfortable church was last year fitted up by the Trustees of Mr Macalister. But previous to this there was no church in that dis- trict ; and the incumbent's father when he preached there, officiat- ed in the recess or cavity of a rock, for a period of fifty- two years. There has never been a manse in this parish, the incumbents always occupying farm-houses in the vicinity of the glebe, which consists of 44 acres, and is valued at about L. 15 per annum. The stipend is L.271, 2s. 6d. The Crown is patron. An intel- ligent catechist, paid by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, is constantly employed. A Baptist missionary has been stationed here for the last twelve years ; but, from the firm attach- ment of the people to the Established Church, only sixteen con* verts have been made, and of these six are not natives of the pa- rish. Public worship is generally well attended ; but, owing to the extent of the parish, the ruinous state of the church, and the re- mote distance from it at which the ^eat majority of the people reside, their attendance is much influenced by the state of the weather. Education. — There are five schools in the parish, — one paro- chial, two unendowed, and supported by the parents of the chil • dren, and two on the establishment of the Graelic School Society. The parochial school is in the possession of an efficient teacher, and is well attended, particularly during the winter. The branches usually taught are, English reading, writing, and arithmetic. Very few now prosecute the study of Latin and Greek, although the teacher is well qualified to give instruction in those branches. From the detached position of the diflerent hamlets in the parish, the parochial school can never be generally useful to the inhabit- ants. Three additional schools would supply all our wants in the way of education, in a manner sufficient for the diffusion of useful and salutary knowledge ; and it is pleasant to observe that the peo- ISLAND OF SKYE STUATH. 313 pie in general are becoming more alive to the advantages of edu- cation. Fuel. — The fuel chiefly, it may be said entirely, used is peat, of which the supply is abundant and the quality excellent. It is pro- cured at comparatively little expense, being secured at a season of the year when there is a cessation from all other labour. Coal has been discovered on the estate of Strathaird, but was never wrought. The smith in that district tried its quality, and found it to answer his purpose well. Inns, — We have three inns, and in situations necessary for the accommodation of travellers. It cannot be said that they have any bad effect on the morals of the people. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the former Statistical Account of this parish was drawn out, various changes of importance have been effected. The means of diffusing useful knowledge have greatly increased, and the facilities for the attainment of general improvement have been extensively afforded. Improvements have taken place in the modes of communication with other parts of the kingdom. The mails have been accelerated — roads have been formed in all directions — steamers and other packets have been established. But al« though the benefits arising from such modes of communication are great, yet some of them are attended with disadvantages, as they are the means of introducing into the country a variety of vagrants, such as gipsies, rag-men, venders of crockery, tinsmiths, egg- dealers, and old-clothes-men. By characters of this description, manners and habits, which were formerly unknown to the lower orders, are gradually introduced, such as tea •drinking, tobacco chewing and smoking. The disadvantages of such habits are sufficiently apparent ; and while temperance and total absti- nence societies, in regard to spirituous liquors, are establish- ed with such noted success throughout the kingdom, we would earnestly recommend anti-tea and tobacco societies to be set on foot here, — much more money being uselessly lavished on these ar- ticles than on intoxicating liquors of any description. Of late years, the sale of eggs for the Glasgow market has be- come a general and useful traffic ; but it is matter of regret that the money thus realized, which must amount to at least L.100 per annum, should not be laid out more usefully than in the procur- ing of tea and tobacco. Great improvements have taken place in the agriculture of the INVERNESS. X 314 INVERNESS-SHIRE. parish, from draining, trenching, fencing, and the application of lime, marl, and shell-sand. The cdschrom, or crooked-spade, is giving place to the plough, which is now drawn by two horses in- stead of four, as was the case not many years ago. The pannier or creel is also giving place to the cart, which is now in common use. The small oat is also fast disappearing, and, from the diflFer- cnt varieties of great oats, we have fair returns ; but unless the seed is frequently changed, they soon degenerate, owing no doubt to the moist and cold nature of our climate. The crops, however, in the most favourable seasons, are inadequate to the support of the superabundant population. The consequence is, that they annually suffer privations in a greater or less degree. In the years 1836 and 1837, this parish, in common with the rest of the Highlands, experienced the effects of the alarming des- titution, which was so prevalent in consequence of the failure of the crops in general, and of the potatoes in particular, from some unaccountable causes. And had it not been for the laudable and philanthropic exertions of John Bowie, Esq. W.S., agent for Lord Macdonald, and of Dr Norman Macleod of Glasgow, and the timeous relief procured by the appeal of these gentlemen to a li- beral public, a fearful loss of life must have been the consequence. The recurrence of similar calamities can only be prevented by striking the evil at the root, — by the establishment of a systematic emigration conducted upon proper principles, and holding out such inducements as will overcome the amor patricB so strongly im- planted in the breast of every Highlander. If the indefatigable exertions of Mr Bowie to benefit the High- lands, and to promote emigration, were responded to by the High- land proprietors, with that energy which his judicious suggestions on this subject so well merit, and which the state of the country so loudly calls for, not only would they find it for their own ulti- mate advantage ; but their people might again be restored to the enjoyment of a competency of the necessaries of life, and to that status in society which they held until the introduction of the lot- ting system, at which period some of the best of the small tenants of this parish left it for North Carolina, one of whom brought more capital along with him than is now in the joint possession of all the tenants who occupy the farm which he left. All traces of the feudal system have now disappeared, and most of the ancient manners and customs peculiar to the Highlanders have long ago sunk into oblivion. At one time the feudal lairds ISLAND OF SKYE — STBATH. 3|5 and chieftains had full power over the life and death of their vas- sals, and their injunctions, however unreasonable and severe, were peremptory. The following is a striking instance of the remarka- able habits that prevailed even in times comparatively modern. Until within the last ninety years, it was customary in this is« land when a tenant died, that the best horse in the possession of the widow was claimed by the laird, who sent his ground-oflScer or under factor to demand it immediately after the interment This barbarous custom was tamely submitted to until it was checked by the following occurrence : A man of the name of Mackinnon in this parish, having died, the best horse in the possession of the poor widow was as usual claimed for the laird by the ground- olBSccr, who, in executing his cruel order, experienced so much resistance from the poor widow, that he beat and bruised her to the effusion of her blood, when she told him that she hoped her son, then about a year old, would some day be revenged of him for the treatment she had that day received. Some years thereafter, the same ground-officer came upon a similar errand to a neighbouring farm, when he behaved with his usual insolence to another poor wi- dow, whom he likewise deprived of her best horse. This having come to the knowledge of young Mackinnon, then in his eigh- teenth year, and considered the strongest man in the parish, he pursued the ground-officer, whom he overtook within three miles of the laird's house, and desired him immediately to deliver to him the widow's horse, at the same time putting him in mind of the treat- ment which his mother had received at his hands. The ground- officer refused to part with the horse, upon which battle was offered and accepted, but soon decided in favour of Mackinnon, who, with his dirk, cut off the head of his antagonist, washed it in a well by the road-side, which is still known by the name of Tobar a^chinrij or the well of the head, — mounted the horse, and appeared at the laird's gate, having the head on the point of his dirk. Such an unusual spectacle attracted the notice of the servants, who in- formed the laird that Donnuchadh Mor, alias Big Duncan, was at the gate with the ground-officer's head, very anxious to see him. The laird could not at first believe that such a diabolical deed could be perpetrated, not knowing the causes which led to it. But, upon coming out, he was shocked to find the report correct; and, upon hearing Donnuchadh Mor'saccount of the recent trans- action, as well as the inhuman treatment which the mother had received seventeen years previously, he granted him a free pardon 3!C INVERNESS-SIIIllE. and appointed him ground-officer, telling him, at the same time, that no widow upon his estate should ever again be deprived of any part of her property. About thirty years ago, an old man of the name of John Mac- innes died in this parish, who was one of the crew which ferried Prince Charles Stuart from Strathaird to the mainland. The Prince was at this time accompanied by the chief of Mackinnon, who remained along with him until he should see him safely embark- ed for France. Such being Mackinnon's intention, he despatch- ed the boat and crew home; Before, however, they landed on their native island, they were espied by Captain Fergusson, who was at the time in search of the luckless Pretender, and were taken on board his sloop of war to undergo an examination as to their knowledge of the Royal wanderer's movements. Macinnes be- ing the principal man in the boat, and refusing to give any intelligence on the subject, and spurning at the reward offered for betraying the person whom he conceived to be the king of his chief, was ordered to the yard-arm to receive 500 lashes. At every fifty, he was asked to give the necessary information, which he scornfully refused to give ; and at last, after having en- dured the full amount of the punishment awarded to him, he was set at liberty, or rather thrown into his boat apparently more dead than alive. The writer of this Account has a perfect recollection of seeing the marks of the " cat-o'-nine-tails" on Macinnes's back, and of hearing him relate the cruel treatment which he had received. The poor man always became furious when Captain Fergusson's name was mentioned. There is an immense block of granite on the glebe, weighing at least six tons, which is so nicely balanced on a level lime rock, that it moves by the slightest pressure of the finger. It has been evidently placed there by the ingenuity of man, but in what man- ner, or by what mechanical power, is a subject for the antiquarian to discover. Within the last three years, about 200 souls have emigrated to Australia from this parish. It is earnestly hoped that the favour- able accounts of those who have settled there, will induce many of the people to avail themselves of the great boon which is now offered to them, viz. a free passage, with every necessary and de- sirable comfort during the voyage. And so satisfied is the writer of this Account of the prosperity of that colony, that he has done all in his power to persuade his poor countrymen to emigrate to ISLAND OF SKYE — SLEAT. 3J7 that country; and, to convince them of his good intentions, as well as to prove the sincerity^ of his advice, he has himself sent thither three of his sons within the last two years, and, if spared for a few months longer, he proposes to send a fourth. Jpril 1840. PARISH OF SLEAT. PRESBYTERY OF SKYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. ^ THE REV. ALEXANDER M'lVOR, MINISIER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent^ Boundaries^ §y.' — Sleat forms the soiUh*eastern part of the Island of Skye. The parish commences to the north at Kylc-rhea, — a narrow ferry which separates Skye from the mainland of Glenelg, and it extends to the south-west along the sea. To the north, it is bounded by the parish of Strath, from which it is divided by a high ridge of hill from Kyle-rhea to Loch-in-daal. Opposite to Loch-in-daal, another branch of the sea, called Loch-Eishart, comes in from the westward, and is se- parsited from Loch-in-daal by a narrow isthmus, about half a mile in breadth. * The parish from Loch-in-daal forms a peninsula, ex- tending westward to the point of Sleat The population is locat- ed on both sides of this peninsula. The length of the parish is about 25 miles, and its average breadth 5. Topographical Appearances, — The appearance of the parish is ill many places interesting. The plantations around Armadale Castle, and towards the manse, give it an aspect of high cultiva- tion, not expected in such a remote district ; and the extent of land in culture is considerable. Above the plantations and the cultivated land, the low and bleak moorland forms a contrast to the bold character of the Strath hills seen over it, and more es- pecially to the precipitous and serrated outline of the Cuillin hills, which are at no great distance. The climate is humid, and the people are, in consequence, subject to severe rheumatic com- plaints. Hydrography. — There are no lakes of any extent in the parish ; but there are a few moorland lochs, containing trout, that some- 3 18 INVERNESS-SHIRE. times afifora sport to the angler. The narrowness of the peninsula, of which the parish chiefly consists, precludes an accumulation of water sufficient to form a river of any magnitude. Botany. — The only thing worth mentioning under this head is, that the rare plant Eriocaulon septangulare is found in a lake Qear Loch-in*daal. 11. — Civil History. Land-owners. — Lord Macdonald is sole proprietor of the parish. Ancient and Modern Buildings. — The only ancient buildings deserving of any notice are two, viz. Dun-scaich, on the west side of the parish, and the Castle of Knock, on the east Botlf, I bor lieve, were the residences of the Barons of Sleat at a very remote period. Dun-scaich is the more extensive building ; and, from the remains of a prison and a draw*well, it must have been a place of considerable strength. The only mansion-house is Lord Macdonald's castle at Arma- dale. It is a modern Gothic building, erected about twenty- five years ago, after a design by Gillespie Graham, Esq. The lobby and staircase, from the correctness of architecture, and ele- gance of finish, are universally admired. The staircase windo w contains an elegant portrait of Somerled, Lord of the Isles, the founder of the family, in full Highland costume, done in stained glass by Egginton of Birmingham. This window gives^the lobby and staircase a splendid and dignified appearance. The public rooms are all handsome and well proportioned. Parochial Registers. — The only register belonging to the pa- rish is that of births and marriages, commencing in 1813) and re- gularly kept since that period. III. — Population. In the year 1755 the population amounted to 1250. When the former Statistical Account was written, the number of souls was 1788. In 1821, it amounted to 2237; in 1831, to 2756; and in 1837 it had increased to 3000. Character of the People. — If the absence of crime be taken as a test by which to judge of the character of a population, the people of Sleat will stand high. Interference on the part of the police of the country among them is unknown. Since my connection with the parish, fourteen years ago, I recollect only one case of theft, and the person then accused was evideitfly imbecile. The inhabitants may be characterized as sober and active; but it must be admitted that they want that persevering industry which is ne- ISLAND OF SKYE — SLEAT. 319 cessary to improve their condition. The able-bodied among them, after their potatoes are planted in the end of spring, go to the south in search of employment. They return again at Martinmas ; and their earnings go to pay the landlord's rents, and to support the weaker members of their families. The winter is almost altogether spent in idleness. There is no demand for labour in the parish, and hence there is only occasional exertion on the part of the people. As the summer's earnings are spent during the winter, there is sel- dom or never a fund laid up for sickness or old age ; and when either of these comes, there is great poverty and privation. Their clothing consists of cloth of their own manufacture. This they find fitter to resist the weather, than any manufactured in the south. Their food consists principally of potatoes. Oatmeal is a luxury among them, and butcher-meat is seldom tasted. Their poverty arises very much from over-population. There are 500 families in the parish. Of these only 6 pay upwards of L.50 yearly rent ; 269 pay from L. 10 to 7s. 6d. per annum ; and there are 225 families, comprising up- wards of 1100 individuals, located in different parts of the parish, who pay no rents, deriving their subsistence from small por^ tions of land given them by the rent-payers for raising potatoes. These are a burden to the proprietor, inasmuch as they destroy the land in cutting fuel and turf ; and are a grievous burden to the inhabitants generally, from the extent of pauperism prevail- ing among them. An adequate correction for such an evil is dif- ficult to be found. Their abject poverty stands in the way of any stimulus that may be applied for enabling them to better their condition ; and if matters are left as they are, there will very soon be such a mass of pauperism as it is alarming to contemplate. The most efficient remedy appears to be an extensive and well-regulated emigration. IV. — Industry. The parish consists of 1335 acres arable ; 3956 acres green pas^ ture ; 18,265 acres hill pasture ; and 500 acres wood. I believe the rental of the parish is about L.2400. Husbandry. — The management of the land depends very much on the tenant The tacksmen in the parish farm their arable lands regularly, — have a rotation of crops, — and pay great attention to the rearing of their sheep and cattle stocks. The case is different with the crofters. Their principal object is to raise potatoes ; and, as they use little manure except sea- weed, the quality of the root is bad, and the ground impoverished. Their cattle and sheep stocks 320 INVEUNESS-SHIRE. are also mistnannged. They keep nearly a double stock on their hill pastures ; hence the animals are stinted in their growth, and are generally worth little. Were a moderate stock kept, and their arable lands properly tilled, I have no doubt the people's comfort would be materially improved. Leases. — The five tacksmen in the parish alone possess leases, the duration of which is generally fifteen years. The others are all tenants at will. Improvements. — Extensive improvements have been made on Lord Macdonald's farm of Armadale. Much land has been re- claimed, and the fields are regularly divided by ditches and hedges. Planting has been carried on there also on an extensive scale, and the parish has now the advantage of being able, from thinnings of wood, to supply itself with such timber as is required for boat-building and agricultural purposes, — an advantage it possesses over the other parishes in the island. Among some who have made improve- ments in the parish, Mr Elder of Knock, and late of Isleornsay, is conspicuous. The extensive fields of luxuriant and healthy pasture, both at Isleornsay and Knock, bear ample testimony to his industry, judgment, and enterprise, and form a strong contrast to the poor crops and bare pastures on the farms around Uim. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no towns or villages in the parish. Means of Communication, — A parliamentary road runs through the parish, opening the communication from Armadale to Broad- ford, a distance of sixteen miles. There are also district roads connecting different parts of the parish. A steam-boat from Glasgow to Portree calls once a week in summer, and once in three weeks in winter. Thus an easy access is opened by sea and land to other parts. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated at Kilmore about the middle of the parish. Itis an old building, and has the date 1631 marked on it It has been lately repaired, and is seated for nearly 500. Manse, §*c. — The manse was built about thirty years ago, and is a handsome building, near to the church. The glebe is arable, and may be of the yearly value of L.6. The teinds amount to L.62, 7s. 4d. per annum. '^Ttie balance of stipend is made up from the Exchequer allowance. There are 5 families Dissenters, viz. 3 Ro- man Catholics, and 2 Baptists. The people, for the most part» ISLAND OF StCYE — SLEAT. 321 are regular in attending on religious ordinances. Many come to church in winter, a distance of five and six miles. The average number of communicants is 200. Education. — There are three endowed schools in the parish : viz. the parochial school, near the church — an Assembly school at Tormore, in the southern part of the parish, and one from the So- ciety in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge. These three schools have suitable houses for their accommodation. A school from the Gaelic School Society has been established at the ferry of Kyle-rhea, opposite to Gienelg. Another schoo is wanted at Isleornsay, to place the means of education within easy reach of nil the inhabitants. A large proportion of the old people are unable to read or write ; but they all seem desirous that their children should be educated. Poor and Parochial Funds. — When the season is good and the crops plentiful, the poor having more or less crop, do not require the same extent of aid as in bad seasons. During the destitu* tion of 1837, nearly 1500 required aid; but in ordinary years, about 200 are left to depend more or less on others. The ave- rage amount of the collections from* 1826 to 1836 was L. 10 a-year. Since that period, owing to the landlord's absence from the parish, and other causes, the collections became merely nomi- nal, 80 that in 1836 the kirk^session came to the resolution of having no stated collection. The poor are now supported by the charity of their neighbours. All the rent-payers consider it a duty to appropriate a certain portion of their potatoes and corn for the poor, and in this way their wants have been hitherto supplied. When a case of extraordinary distress occurs, an occasional col- lection is made for its relief. This plan for the support of the poor may answer well in good seasons. But should a bad season come, and the crops fail, similar destitution to what took place in 1837 must recur. To afford to the poor the aid of food and clothing which their destitution requires, a permanent fund must be provid- ed, and this can only be secured by an assessment ; but, in the cir- cumstances of the parish from over-population, and its consequent poverty, this would introduce such evils^ that other means must fail before it be resorted to. At present, the situation of the people is gradually but surely tending to make an assessment ne- cessary. Fuel. — The only fuel is turf, which is good and abundant. 322 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the former Statistical Account was written, various im- provements have taken place in the parish. Excellent roads have been opened — extensive plantations have been made — and a large extent of land reclaimed. Steam-boats ply regularly, and facili- ties are afforded for the introduction of the comforts of civilized life. But no permanent improvement has taken place in the circum- stances of the people generally. Population has increased from 1788 to 3000, and lands which were then possessed by labour- ing tenants are now converted to sheep-farms. This has redu- ced the people's means of support. There are no manufactures, and, as they depend on land exclusively for their subsistence, an extent of poverty prevails among them now, to which formerly they were strangers. As yet, however, crime is unknown among them. A high degree of moral feeling has hitherto restrained them ; but it is to be feared that grinding poverty will break down this check, and introduce crimes at which they hitherto have shud- dered. December 1840. PARISH OF DUIRINISH. PRESBYTERY OF 8KYE, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. ARCHIBALD CLERK, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Duirinish, or more properly Duriniahy is by some resolved into two words of Scandinavian origin, signifying the pro- montory of Deer ; but more probably, the name is derived from the Gaelic Dur^ which, like the Latin Durus, signifies hard or rocky, and Irmisj a very common Celtic term, signifying indifTer- ently promontory or island. Dur-innis in the case before us, then, signifies the rocky promontory ; a designation which every one ac* quainted with the parish will acknowledge to be a very appropriate one, — as it forms a large promontory, singularly rocky and bold. This parish is, both in conversation and in writing, sometimes designated Kilmuir, a corruption of CilUMhuirey i, e. a place con- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 323 secrated to the Virgin Mary ; but Duirinish is the name by which it is generally known. Extent. — The extreme length of the parish from Unish to Idrigil is 19 miles; breadth, from Vaterstein to Lynedale, 16 miles. Its extent in square miles is about 100. But these dis- tances convey no idea of the difficulty of traversing it, it being in- tersected by arms of the sea, by hills and morasses, which render travelling through it a very arduous task. Boundaries. — It is bounded on the west by what is called the Minch, the channel which separates Skye from the Outer Hebrides ; on the north and north-east, by Loch Grieshcrnish, or Arnizort, a branch of Loch Snizort (except that a small strip of land to the east of this loch belongs to it) ; on the south and south-east, by Loch Bracadale, and one of its branches called Loch Carroy, and on the east partly by the parish of Snizort, and partly by that of Bracadale. Figure. — The form of the parish is as irregular as may well be conceived, and defies all power of minute description. On a general view, it presents the appearance of a large promontory, or rather peninsula, separated from the rest of Skye by a neck of low moorish land, about four miles in breadth, stretching from Loch Carroy to Loch Grieshernish already noticed. But this penin- sula is first subdivided by Loch Follart, or Loch Dunvegan, which, branching off the Minch, stretches due south to within less than two miles of Loch Carroy. These two large subdivisions are again cut up by Loch Bay and Loch Poltiel, each of which is near two miles in length, and by so many creeks and inlets as would be te- dious to enumerate. Of the two larger divisions, the western one is known as Duirinish proper, while the northern portion of the east one is called Vatemisk or Waternish^ and forms a separate parish quoad aacra^ being one of the recent Parliamentary erections* Mountains^ <$-c.— -The only mountains in the parish deserving the name, are two which are situated in the western peninsula, and known to the country people as the Greater and Lesser Helvel (probably a corruption of sealbh mheall^ the charmed or fortunate hill ; and evidently of the same derivation with Helvellyn io Wales.) These rise each to the height of 1700 feet, and are re- markable for the verdure of their surfiice, and the regularity of their slope, while their summits are perfectly level. This last peculiarity has procured for them, especially among sailors, the name of Macleod's Tables; and I believe that they arc more 324 INVERNESS-SHIRE. completely tabular in their forms than any other mountains of equal size in Scotland. From the Larger Helvel, a range of elevated hilly ground extends to the north, and terminates in Dunvegan or Galtrigil Head, a singularly bold and precipitous headland, which is upwards of 300 feet in perpendicular height ; while, from the Lesser Helvcl, a similar range strikes off to the south, ending in the Points of Idrigil and Waterstein, the cliffs of the former of which rise abruptly from the sea to the height of 400 feet ; those of the latter to near 600. With the exception of the hiBadland of Tallisker in the neighbouring parish of Bra- cadale, these two are by far the highest and grandest in the coun- try. A few hundred yards from the Point of Idrigil are ta be seen three very remarkable basaltic pillars, rising perpendicularly out of the sea ; the highest of which is about 200 feet in height, the other two about 100. These pillars are generally known as Macleod's Maidens ; but the country people designate them as a mother and her two daughters, calling the matron Nic Cleosgeir Mhor. There was at one time a fourth pillar, but k yielded to the action of the storms and waves, and has now disappeared in the deep. They certainly present at a distance no indistinct re- semblance to gigantic females clad in cloaks and hoods, while the superior size of one of them entitles her at least to the honour of being thought the eldest. Sir Walter Scott compares them to the Norwegian Riders of the storm, or chusers of the slain ; and the tradition which says that the mother is constantly engaged in weaving a web of cloth which one of the daughters is occupied in fulling or thickening, is probably of Scandinavian origin. I have not learned what is the office of the third, nor, with the ex- ception of the above, could I gather any legend connected with them. There are two other scries of hills in the parish ; but as they neither rise to any considerable height, nor have anything pecu- liar in their formation, they do not merit a particular description. The surface of the ground is generally sloping, and the few tracts of level land which are to be met with consist almost wholly of deep peat moss. There is one valley, called Glendale, about two miles in length, which stretches from the head of Loch Poltiel in a southerly di- rection, until it reaches near the base of the Smaller Helvel. Its breadth is from half a mile to three-quarters of a mile ; its sides sloping gradually, and covered with very rich pasture. It is di- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINIfJH. 325 vided by a considerable stream, here called the Amhainn Mhor^ the Large River ; a title which, however, it scarcely deserves to enjoy. There are neither streams nor valleys in any other por- tion of the parish worthy of mention. Cavesy 8^c. — There are some caves, and an immense number of caverns and hollows in the rocks along the coast, formed evidently by the action of the waves on the barrier which opposed their progress. Indeed, the coast for several miles presents the ap- pearance of an almost endless variety of Gothic arches, some of them only a few feet in height, others rising as high as fifty or sixty feet ; some regular and symmetrical, according to the strictest rules of art ; while others look as if the builder in constructing them had taxed his powers to heap together all that was grotesque and incongruous. Some of these caves are above tide-mark, but into many of them the sea rushes with a deep and hollow murmur, which is most solemn and awe-inspiring. One of them, called \Jamh a Choinnleir^ or the Cave of the Candlestick, possibly be- cause on account of its darkness, it requires to be entered with a candle, is near 100 feet in length, about 50 feet in height, and ' presents a scene of gloomy grandeur well worth[the visiting. An- other which I examined is 120 feet in length, 40 feet in height, and about 10 in breadth. A third, called Idrigil Cave, which is but small in comparison with those now mentioned, has yet a me- lancholy interest attached to it, as having been for some time one of the many dismal prisons in which the unfortunate and ill-used Lady Grange was confined. It is now frequently resorted to as a dwelling by the fishermen who follow their trade on the coast. They here hang up their nets to dry, cure their fish, cook their victuals, and sleep soundly on the dry sand with which part of the cave is strewn. It is somewhat singular regarding these caves, that while there is water oozing through most of them, there is no stalactitic for- mation, no calcareous accretion of any kind to be found in them. The basaltic rock appears black and bare in all of them. Coast. — The coast, owing to the numerous arms of the sea, al- ready adverted to, is no less than 70 miles in extent. It presents many headlands of stupendous height, and fqrming scenes of singular wildness and magnificence. Within the lochs, however, the ground shelves down with a moderate declivity, and afibrds a great variety of commodious landing-places. Lochs Dunvegan and Grieshernish form safe roadsteads for vessels of the largest 326 INVERNESS-SHIRE. size, from whatever quarter the wind may blow, and Loch Bay, Loch Poltiel, and Loch Carroy, though more exposed, afford good anchorage in ordinary weather. A small branch of Ix)ch Carroy, called Pol Roag, forms an anchorage as safe as can be imagined ; but, owing to the narrowness of the entrance, it is adapted to small •craft only. The high water line is almost everywhere composed of a rocky ledge, but between this and low water-mark, a beach is found, ge- nerally consisting of gravel and large stones, sometimes of sand, and in a few instances of mud. Islands. — There is a number of small islands belonging to the parish, but none of tbem is inhabited except one, called £ilean Isa, ^^ the island of Jesus," which, is only a few miles in circumfe- rence ; yet, from its fertility, supports fourteen or fifteen families in considerable comfort. Meteorology. — It is well known that along all the Western Isles a great quantity of rain falls annually. Skye, owing to local causes, the height of its mountains and headlands, receives more than its due proportion of this quantity. The island of Uist, though lying further west, yet being much lower, enjoys a comparatively dry climate, especially as regards the partial and generally heavy showers of summer. Clouds loaded with the vapours of the At- lantic pass over it unbroken ; but, when dashed against the lofty hills of Skye, discharge their contents in torrents. The winters are very boisterous, but far from being cold. In this parish snow seldom lies above a few days, except on the top of the Helvels, and very little ice is formed. Climate. — The climate, though moist, is far from being un- healthy. On the contrary, it is highly salubrious. While so much rain falls, there are no stagnant pools or marshes to retain or corrupt it, and the vicinity of the sea tends to preserve an equa- ble temperature, which is highly conducive to health. Some fatal diseases, frequent in other places, are unknown or nearly so here ; among which may be mentioned that fatal scourge of Britain ge- nerally, consumption. The most prevalent complaints are, dys- pepsia, dysentery, slow fevers, and cutaneous diseases, which are almost entirely confined to the humbler classes, and arise from lowness of diet, and want of attention to cleanliness. There is one very loathsome disease, commonly called the sevens or sibbens^ which is very prevalent here ; but whether it be indigenous or im« ported, I have not been able to learn. ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 327 It is worthy of mention, that, while vaccination is generally ne- glected, those of the people who remain at home, with few excep- tions, escape the ravages of small-pox ; but those who go to the south or low country are almost universally attacked by it, and many of them fall victims to it. Geology and Mineralogy. — The geology of the parish is remark- ably uniform, being almost entirely of the trap formation. Hori- zontal beds of amorphous basalt and trap tuff are surmounted by columnar basalt, the angles of which are, however, seldom regu- lar or well defined. It may be said to show only an incipient ten- dency to crystallization. These beds are very frequently intersect- ed by veins or dikes of basalt, harder, darker, and more splintery than that of which the columns are composed. Minerals. — The simple minerals imbedded are zeolites of every variety and-in great abundance; steatite likewise abundant, espe- cially about Dunvegan ; augite and olivine more rarely. Beds of limestone occur in two localities, Xst^ at Waterstein (or Vaterstein,) in a very remarkable situation, — the immensely high cliffs already noticed, overhanging the sea ; and 2(/, more exten- sively at Loch Bay, in the district of Vatemish. In this latter lo- cality, the limestone contains numerous fossil shells, and in some instances is entirely composed of them. They seem all to belong to a comparatively recent era, — a fact which might be easily as- certained by a skilful geologist, as they are very Uttle changed from their original state. One of these beds of shelly limestone lies under an immense cliff of basalt, which is near 200 feet in height. Veins of sandstone occur at Loch Bay, along with the limestone, and both here and at Vaterstein seams of coal are to be met with. The sandstone is very soft and friable, consequent- ly utterly unfit far the purposes of building. The coal, which is hard and brittle, resembling cannel-coal, though scarcely so lus- trous, is to be found in seams of only a few inches in thickness. Repeated attempts have been made to discover a workable seam ; but they failed ; and it is evident, from the geological formation of the surrounding district, that all such attempts must end in disap- pointment. Soils. — The soils are generally peat moss, or a mixture of peat moss and decomposed trap. There are a few tracts of clayey soil to be met with, and still fewer of gravelly ; but no instance of sandy soil occurs. Zoology and Botany. — Very liitlp can be said on these heads* 328 INVERNESS-SHIRE. The quadrupeds common on tlie mainland of Scotland, are all to be found here, except the hare, mole, and polecat, which are not to be met with in Skve. Hares have been introduced once or twice; but they very speedily disappeared, whether owing to the jealousy of those who feed them, but have not the privilege of shooting them, or to the unsheltered nature of the country, I have not the means of ascertaining. The other two species of animals have, I believe, been never seen in the island, — a fact which Ihe inhabitants have no cause to regret. Of fishes, the herring is undoubtedly the most important in an economical point of view, next to which come the cod and ling, large quantities of which are annually caught along the shores, — quantities capable of very considerable increase, were the inhabit* ants active or enterprising fishers. Turbot, mackerel, skate, had- dock, and flounder, are likewise to be met with, but not in large numbers. Shell-fish is very abundant whenever the beach is smooth, and is much prized by the poorest of the people, to many of whom it affords sustenance in the latter end of summer, when, generally, every other provision fails. It is worthy of remark regarding the herring, that they are found of very different qualities in the different lochs that indent the parish, and that they are almost always found of the same quality and appearance in the same loch. This would seem to warrant the belief, that herrings, like salmon, have peculiar localities to which they regularly resort. Botany. — The botany of the parish is, like its geology, very uniform, and consequently uninteresting. No rare plant has been discovered in it except the Mimulus luteuf, an American plant, which is to be found in a ditch close by the inn at Dunvegan ; and it is supposed, though there is no certain proof of this, that it is not indigenous to Duirinish, but has been thrown out of some garden into its present situation. There is one culinary vegetable — the cabbage, which thrives better in this parish, I believe, than anywhere else in Scotland. The Glendale Cabbage is known and sought after not only through- . out all Skye, but likewise in many places on the mainland ; and its immense size, combined with its delicacy of flavour, entitles it to the pre-eminence which it has attained. The seed is said to have been obtained from a foreign vessel which was wrecked at the foot of Glendale many years ago. Whether it be a distinct species I am not able to determine. ISLAND OF 8KYE — DUIRINISH. 329 The district is entirely destitute of natural wood, — some scraggy hazel and stunted birch bushes to be met with in a few localities^ not deserving the name. It is evident from the remains of trees found in the peat mosses, that the country was not always equally bare ; but as these remains are neither very numerous nor of a large size, it may be concluded that it has not been welUwooded for many ages back. Until about sixty years ago, there seem to have been no attempts made by art to remedy the deficiency of nature. Butaboutthat time, General Macleod of Macleod commenced plant- ing around his castle of Dunvegan ; and his example has been fol* lowed by his two successors, so that now there is an extensive and thriving plantation, where formerly all was bleak and bare. The late Mr Macdonald of Lynedale, about fifty years ago, likewise planted to some extent around his own dwelling, where now trees of some size are to be seen. Mr Macleod of Orbost, and Mr Gumming of Grieshernish have followed the example set to them. Their houses will soon be completely sheltered, as they are already or- namented by wood of their own rearing. But, with these excep- tions, nothing has been done to redeem the district from its na- turally naked character. The larch is decidedly the most congenial tree to the soil and climate of this place ; but a great variety of other trees, such as oak, ash, plane, beech, alder, and birch, are found to thrive pretty well, notwithstanding the violence of the sea«blast to which they are constantly exposed. Scotch fir has not succeeded well, though tried more than once. 11. — Civil History. Tradition speaks of some sanguinary battles fought between the Macleods and the Clann Raonnuill or Macdonalds of Uist, who made repeated attempts either to possess themselves of the country, or at least to plunder and ravage it. The fiercest and bloodiest of these battles was fought at a place called Ardmore, in the district of Yaternish, on the beach below the old church of Trumpan. Many of the Macleods were assembled in this church, when the enemy came suddenly upon them, surrounded the building, set fire to it, and destroyed all the worshippers ; one woman alone excepted, who made her escape during the confu- sion of the fray. This barbarous and sacrilegious work, however, did not pass unrevenged. The inhabitants of other parU of the country had observed the boats of their foe. The beacon-lights and Crot8 Tara (fiery-ctoaa^ «oou\JitQ\^^^.\»^^^'t\s^s®i^^^^ff^^^ 1NV£RN£88. ^ ^ 330 INVERNESS-SHlRE. accustomed to war, and delighted in it. The smoke and flames of their church, which were visible from many parts of the parish, caused them to redouble their speed ; and before the Macdonalds had regained their vessels, they were beset by the infuriated Macleods, who took full revenge for the slaughter of their friends. The booty was recovered, and the greater number of the Mac- donalds left dead on the shore. The burial given by the Mac- leods to those of their enemies who fell on this occasion, was dif- ferent from that which the Highlanders generally gave to brave opponents. The bodies, it is said, were ranged in a line by the side of a stone wall which stood near the scene of combat, and the wall thrown down upon them. Hence the battle is still known as Blar Milkadh Gdraidh^ (t. e.) the battle of the destruction of the dike. Whether this be or be not a correct account of the origin of the name, it is very certain that a deadly conflict did take place on the spot pointed out as the battle-field of MiUeadli Gdraidh ; for large quantities of human bones are still to be seen there, on turning over some loose stones by which the ground is covered. The smothering of the Macdonalds by the Macleods in the Cave of Eigg, while a barbarous, was not an inappropriate retaliation for the work at Waternish. There are indistinct accounts preserved of another battle fought by these hostile clans, known as Bldr Bhattemishf- the battle of Vaternish. There the Macleods lost many men, and were on the point of being completely discomfited, when the celebrated Fairy Flag or enchanted banner of their chief was unfurled, which immediately (this being one of its three miraculous pro- perties) multiplied the number of the Macleods threefold, or rather made their enemies believe that they were so multiplied. The Macdonalds, seeing themselves beset by so large and unlooked for a host, were seized with a sudden panic, sought safety in flight, and were completely routed. So says tradition ; and there are «ome who still give implicit credence to its reports, however absurd they be. Family of MacUod. — The Macleods obtained peaceable pos- session of this parish in the tenth century, through the marriage of the first Tormoid, or Norman of the name, with the only daugh- ter of MacRailt, the original possessor of the soil ; and, despite the repeated attempts which have been made by their enemies to deprive them of it, and of the changes which time usually produces in families, they still retain possession of all of it, except what has ISLAND OF SKYE DUIRINISH. 331 been voluntarily alienated. The chief historical interest of the parish may be said, indeed, to rest on the fact, that in it is situated the principal stronghold and residence of this very ancient family ; and it may not be foreign to such an account as the present, to say a few words regarding their early history. In a statement, professing to be drawn from the chronicles of Iceland, it is said, that several Norwegian chiefs, tired of the ty- ranny of Harold Har6nger their king, abandoned his dominions, and betook themselves to the sea in quest of a habitation where they might enjoy liberty. They landed on the Pharo Islands, which they found uninhabited, and of which they took immediate possession. After this they subdued Orkney and Shetland, the Isle of Man, and all the Hebrides, as well as several tracts on the mainland, from Caithness to the Mull of Cantyre. These scat- tered possessions were formed into two principalities, or rather a kingdom, and an earldom, — the seat of the former being in the Isle of Man, — that of the latter in Orkney. Both the King of Man and the Earl of Orkney exercised for a time an independent sway ; but they were soon found out by their old master, who com« pelled them again to acknowledge his supremacy, — at least nomi- nally. These islands then continued attached to the Crown of Norway until the battle of Largs in 1261, when Magnus, son of King Haco, surrendered them to Scotland; guaranteeing, how- ever, to the Norwegian settlers all the rights and privileges which they formerly possessed. The first Earl of Orkney was Torf-Einar, son of Rognvallar Earl of Maeria, in Norway, and brother to the famous Rolf- Gaunger, or Rollo the Dane, the founder of the Duchy of Nor- mandv. One of his descendants. Thorfinn, left a numerous fa- mily of sons, who quarrelled about the paternal inheritance, ap- pealed to arms, and deluged the island with blood. Liot or Leod (as it is now written by us), one of the number, apparently more peaceably disposed than his brothers, left the scene of contest, and settled himself in the Island of Lewis, — the Gaelic name of which, Leodhas^ signifies the habitation of Leod. He was the common ancestor of the numerous and powerful clan of Macleod, which became divided into two main braixches, springing respectively from his sons, Tormoid, and Torgil or Torquil. From Tormoid is de- scended the chief of the Macleods of Skye, sometimes styled of Harris, of Dunvegan, of Macleod* From Torquil are descended the Macleods of Lewis, now represented, though not in the direct 332 INVERNESS-SHIRE. male line, which has lon^ ago become extinct, by Macleod of Raasay. They at one time had extensive possessions and sway ; but forfeited the greater portion of their lands in the reign of James VI. The Macleods of Dunvegan have been more fortunate, and have retained, as already observed, through the lapse of many ages, and through various vicissitudes of fortune, all their original possessions, except what they voluntarily disposed of. There is a striking proof of the complete subjugation of the Island of Skye to the Norwegian invaders in the fact, that very many of the proper names still used in it are traceable to a Norse origin. The inhabitants have Tormoid, Harold, Olaus, and Mag- nus, — all Norwegian names, still common among them. But it is much more remarkable than this, that nearly every farm, every hill, every stream, has a Norwegian appellation, while, at the same time, not the remotest trace of Norse can be discovered in any part of the language of the country, except the proper names. The Gaelic spoken throughout the island is remarkably pure, and free of foreign admixture. It is worthy of observation at the same time, that, while in this country, where the Celts were subdued, but from which they were never expelled, they adopted foreign names to designate almost all the places; in the south again, from which they migrated, or were expelled ages ago, where now not a word of their language is spoken, yet places are almost universally designated by names which they have left behind them, that is, by Celtic names. This, however, is not the place where to follow out the conclusions which might be drawn from such facts. The descendants of Leod still retain their Scandinavian names ; but, in every other respect, they have long ago conformed to the habits of the Celtic tribes among which they dwelt, especially in regard to the clan or patriarchal system of government which pre- vailed among the Scotch and Irish Celts, but was utterly unknown among the branches of the great Gothic family. Notwithstanding that the Macleods have had their principal residence in this parish for many centuries, none of the heads of the family have been interred in it, (their burial-place being at Rodil, in Harris), except the late chief, who ordered his remains to be buried on his own estate. There is now a plain but taste- ful monument erected over them by his successor, in the church- yard of Duirinish. In the same burying-place, there is an obelisk erected by the noted Simon Lord Lovat on the grave of his father, who died at ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 333 Dunvegan, and was a near relation of the Macleod family. It is now, however, considerably decayed, and threatens soon to crum- ble into ruins except it be repaired. Lady Granffe. — There are the ruins of two religious houses to be seen in the parish,— one in the valley of Glendale, the other at Trumpan, in the district of Vatemish. The history of both seems to be completely lost In the latter place is interred the ill' fated Lady Grange, whose singular history accords betted with the dark ages of barbarism than with the general character of the times in which she lived and died. Some very romantic and fabulous accounts have been given of this lady's sufferings ; but the following particulars have been stated to us on authority which deserves regard. She was the daughter of Cheisly of Dairy, a man of violent passions, whose temper she unfortunately for herself inherited. She became the wife of Mr Erskine of Grange, who was made a Lord of Session, in 1707, by the title of Lord Grange, and was Lord Justice- Clerk during the latter years of Queen Anne's reign. He was brother to the Earl of Mar, who headed the ill-conducted Rebellion of 1715 against the House of Hanover; and though he did not openly join the rebels, yet he aided them with his counsel and wealth. His house was a frequent rendezvous to the disaffected gentry and nobility; and his wife,. who was not privy to the con- spiracy, soon became suspicious of such frequent and numerous meetings under her roof. With the curiosity natural to her sex, she resolved to possess herself of the secret of their proceedings, and accomplished her object by hiding herself under a sofa during one of the conferences. She was warmly attached to the reign- ing family. Her love to Lord Grange, who treated her with much harshness and unkindness, was by no means deep or cordial. A quarrel — no rare occurrence — took place between them, when she threatened to revenge herself by disclosing his traitorous purposes to the Government under which he lived. He knew her violence and her resolution too well to doubt of her fulfilling her pro- mise ; and seeing that his own safety and that of all his accom- plices were at stake, he instantly called a meeting of them, in or- der to devise a remedy against the danger which surrounded them. It was agreed at this confei-ence that she should immediately be locked up ; that a report of her death should be spread abroad ; and that the Lairds of Macleod of Dunvegan, and Macdonald of Sleat, whose territories were very remote, should remove her, in 334 INVEIINESS-SUIUE. convenient time, to some secluded spot on tlieir estates, where slic might be no more heard of. This barbarous plan was accordingly acted upon. News of her death were spread abroad; a mock funeral took place; while shortly afterwards she was forced away from her home and family, and, by devious routes, carried as far as Skye. She manifested her characteristic spirit in resisting those who were sent to carry her oiT; and so violent was the struggle, that two of her teeth were knocked out before she was overpowered. But she was over- powered, and so dexterously was her abduction managed, that her friends knew nothing of her fate for several years, but believed that she was in reality dead. She was at first confined in the hut of some poor retainer of Macleod in Skye. When afraid that her residence might possibly become known, he sent her to Uist among Macdonald's followers. From thence she was banished to the remote island of St Kilda, where she remained for seven years. She was again taken back to Uist, and thence to Skye. While here a second time, she fell on a very ingenious expedient for com- municating with her friends. The poor people among whom she lived were accustomed to manufacture their wool into yarn, which they annually sent in large clues to the Inverness market, for sale. Lady Grange acquired the art of spinning, and, having possessed herself of writing materials, she wrote a letter to one of her relatives, which she secretly enclosed in a clue of her own thread that was sent to the market along with others. The purchaser of the yam forwarded the letter to its destination. Her friends were filled with indignation, and instantly applied to the Govern* ment for the liberation of the unfortunate lady from her captivity. The Government sent a sloop of war to the coast of Skye, in or- der to make search for her ; but her gaolers were far too well ac- quainted with the many fastnesses and hiding-places of the coun-* try to allow her to be thus taken. They immured her for some time in the cave of Idrigil already noticed, as being situated on the west of this parish. After this she was transferred to Uist, the person who had the management of the boat having beside him a rope, with a running noose at one end, and a heavy stone at the other, intending, according to his orders, to fix the noose round the prisoner's neck, and to consign her immediately to the deep, should the sloop of war come in sight during the passage. The passage was accomplished without such a tragical catastrophe as was contemplated. Lady Grange was confined for some time ISLAND OF 8KYE — DUIRINISH. 335 longer in Uist, and again brought back to the district of Water* nish, in this parish, where she ended her days. Her persecutors showed throughout the utmost anxiety to con- ceal her place of residence, knowing well the vengeance that would fall upon them if this were discovered. They resolved, that, if possible, even the grave should not bear witness against them ; for after her death they filled a coffin with sods, and, with much form, interred it in (he church-yard of Duirinish, having invited many people to the funeral of the strange lady, while, meantime, her remains were secretly deposited in the church-yard of Trumpan, at Waternish. There are few persons who have had so many funerals as Lady Grange ; and few, also, who have had more cause to long for a real one, for that place ^^ where the wicked cease to trouble, and the weary are at rest." On the recital of this story, it is impossible to avoid a feeling of surprise, that such an outrageous act of injustice and oppres- sion as that above detailed should have been allowed, and that within less than a century back, to escape unpunished by the Government of Great Britain. Antiquiiies. — First among the antiquities are to be noticed Duns or forts, of which there is a large number throughout the parish ; no fewer than fifteen ; all of them contiguous to the sea, and evidently at one time of very great strength. 'J'hey are generally of a circular shape, built of dry stone without lime or mortar ; frequently of such large blocks as would apparently re- quire the aid of powerful mechanical engines to raise them to the height at which they are found. Some of these forts had a wind- ing stair in the middle of the wall, ascending to the top of the building, and secret cells near the base. Others again seem to have contained no hiding-place, except recesses in the wall might be called so. The diameter of the largest which I have examined is about 40 feet ; the thickness of the wall 12 feet How these buildings were roofed, it is not easy to understand ; as it is gene« rally asserted that no wood was used for the purpose. There are also several tumuli or barrows to be met with through- out the parish, the two most remarkable of which are near the head of Loch Carroy. These, like the forts, are built on ele« vated ground, but are merely piles of loose stones. The two ad- verted to are known by the name of the Barpunan. None of them has been opened up, ' but if opened up, they would, like others, be probably found to contain, in vaulted chambers, urns. 336 INVERNESS-SHIRE. in which were deposited the ashes of once renowned, but now forgotten heroes. Subterranean dwellings, or earth-houses, of considerable size, ure to be met with in the parish. These seem evidently to have been intended for hiding-places in times of danger. There is one of them situated on the farm of Vatten, having its entrance in the face of a very precipitous bank, overhanging a deep ravine. This door, or more appropriately fox-hole, is completely covered over with heather and moss, so that its existence would never be suspected even after a minute examination of the bank. A passage about three feet in height, and near the same breadth, roofed by stones laid on as lintels, leads inwards to the distance of sixty or seventy feet, when it opens into what appears to have been a cen- tral room of considerable extent, arched over with stone, and from four to five feet in height Off this room, several narrow galleries branch off in various directions, but to what extent has never been ascertained, as it is difficult and even dangerous to explore them until they be opened from above, and free air admitted into them. How these dwellings were ventilated, so as to be fit for the habi- tation of human beings, it is not easy now to discover, (as for light they seem to have been utterly destitute of it,) but in all probabi- lity the ingenuity of our rude ancestors discovered expedients, more simple, if not more effective, than those boasted of by our scientific age. There is another interesting specimen of these earth-houses on the farm of Clagan ; but it is neither so extensive nor so well constructed as that already adverted to. The only relics of antiquity excavated in the parish are some urns, apparently of Celtic manufacture, which were dug up about four years ago, in an old burial-place near the site of the parish church. These are composed of a very coarse reddish clay ; but have several rude ornaments upon them, or rather are notched and scolloped throughout, and are much more elegant in shape than those generally known as Celtic urns, frequently are. One of them is in the possession of Macleod of Macleod. . Another is believed to be in the Glasgow Hunterian Museum. All the rest were broken to pieces through the carelessness of the excavator, who was more anxious to fit the ground for bearing a crop of po- tatoes, than to bring to light any relics of antiquity which it con- tained. The Castle of Dunvegan is a very interesting monument of by- gone ages. The oldest part of it is said to have been built in the ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 337 ninth century. Another portion, consisting of a very high tower, was added by Alastair Crotach, or the Humphbacked, 400 years later. These two towers were conjoined, by means of a long low edifice, erected by Rory Mor, who was knighted in the days of James VI. Various additions have been made to it since, and the whole now forms a large mass of gray building, which, espe- cially at a distance, presents a very imposing appearance. It is situated on a precipitous rock, washed on one side by the sea ; on another, by a stream of some size ; on a third, it is guarded by what was at one time a moat, consisting of a natural hollow between the castle rock and another steep rock at some yards' distance ; on the fourth, the base is easily accessible, but owing to the height of the rock, and to its being surmounted everywhere by a wall with deep embrasures, even here it would be difficult to storm it, if at all well garrisoned. The entrance was of old from the sea side, by a very long, steep, and narrow stair ; but a new approach has been of late formed by throwing a bridge over the chasm already noticed, which now renders it of easy access. There is a small but very convenient harbour right before it, and a spring of exceU lent water rising on the top of the rock which forms the court- yard. These were the two circumstances which probably went farthest to determine the site of this fortalice when its foundation was laid.* Among the ancient relics preserved in the castle, the ** Fairy flag," which, according to tradition, is the palladium of the Mac- leod family, the hinge on which their fortune turns, claims the first notice. This once celebrated banner, partly owing to the- inroads of moths, and partly to the still more destructive inroads of curious visitors, many of whom carried off portions of it, is now dwindled down to very small dimensions. The fabric is of strong silk of a yellow colour. It is said to have been taken as a prize by one of the Macleods from a Saracen chief during the Crusades, and to possess three miraculous properties, — first, when displayed in bat* tie, to multiply the number of the Macleods threefold ; second, when spread on the nuptial bed, to make it productive ; and third, * Sir Walter Scott, iii his Diary of 1814, gives a minute aoeount of the Castle of Dunvegan, which, notwithstanding his unrivalled power, and generally minute accu- racy in the description of old towers and castles, is more picturesque than correct ; and in describing the scene to be witnessed from the window of the ^* haunted chamber,** he allows his imagination to deceive him completely, when he states that ** Macleod*s Maidens,** formed an interesting part of it. These pillars are not visible firom any point within four miles of the castle. *^ Aliquando dormitat bonus Homerus.** 338 INVERNESS-SHIRE. to bring shoals of herring into Dunvegan loch. According to the original instructions given regarding the flag, it was to be pub- licly displayed only on three occasions: 1. when the clan was in imminent peril of being overthrown in battle, on which occasion the unfurling of it would turn the tide of victory completely in their favour ; 2. when the sole heir and hope of the family was near death, and then it would restore him to health ; and 3. when, through some cause not explained, the whole race of Macleod are to be on the verge of utter extinction, in which emergency the flag will save them ; but flag and flag-bearer are to be swept away by a whirlwind, and never more to be seen on earth. Laying fiction aside, the ^' Fairy flag," according to the most probable accounts, is a consecrated banner which once belonged to some order of the Knights Templars, and is undoubtedly of very high antiquity. There is also in the castle a very ancient cup or chalice, gene^ rally known by the name of Nidi Glundubh^ %. e. ^^ Niel of the Black Knees," and said to have been taken by one of the Mac- leods along with other spoils, from an Irish chief, called Nial Glundubh many centuries ago. This cup is hollowed out of a so- lid block of very dark wood, stands on four silver legs, has a rim of silver fibout two inches in depth around the lips, and is orna- mented by several vertical stripes of silver, raised considerably, and wrought with great elegance, having numerous sockets in them for the reception of precious stones, a few of which still re- main.* Rory Mar's Horn. — A drinking cup, of much larger dimen- sions than that now adverted to, ought not to be passed over in silence, especially as it has found a place in one of the Bacchana- lian songs of Burns, and is briefly described by Sir Walter Scott. This is a very large horn, which was probably at one time worn by a long-horned kyloe ox, and is destitute of any ornament ex- * The description given of this chalice by Sir Walter Scott, in his Notes to the Lord of the Isles, and the drawing by Daniell, published in some of the miscel- lanies of the day, must have made its form and appearance familiar to many readers ; but we may here give the inscription which it bears, copied from Sir Walter's version • of it. ** Ufo Johannis Mich magni principis dc H.U. Manas Vich Siabia Magry- neil et sperat Domino Jhesu dari clementiam iilorum opera. Fecit anno Domini, 993, Onili Oimi.** The inscription is in Saxon black letter, and the numerals 93 are perfectly distinct ; but it is very difficult, indeed, to discover the preceding 9. and from the facts that the Arabic numerals were not at all known in Europe till 991 , very little used in Western Europe for a couple of centuries after this, and very rarely, if ever, used in the midst of Latin inscriptions in the middle ages, it must be doubtful whether the inscription should not be referred to a. later period than the tenth century. ISLAND OF SKYE — ^DUIKINISH. 339 ccpt a broad rim of silver, chased and carved, around the edge. It is said to have been the favourite drinking cup of Ritari Mar^ u e. ^' Big Roderick/' one of the Macleods already referred to : but from its containing three ordinary bottles, that is upwards of five English pints, it is probable that he did not often empty it The quaffing off its contents in claret is one of the ceremonies regu- larly gone through at the inauguration of the chief of Macleod. It is believed, however, that in modern days a piece of cork is on these occasions fixed in the horn, much nearer the top than the bottom. Bagpipe. — It is well known that the great bag-pipe, the in- strument on which the national music of Scotland was chiefly played for so long a time, and which has still so striking an effect in rousing the martial spirit of the Highlanders, was cul- tivated with greater success by the Macrimmons, the hereditary pipers of the Macleods, than by any others in the Highlands. The name of Macrimmon, whether on fanciful or on conclusive ground we pretend not to say, has been derived from the fact of the first musician who bore the name having studied his profes- sion at Cremona in Italy. Certain it is that, what rarely happens, high musical talent as well as high moral principle and personal bravery, descended from father to son during many generations in the family of the Macrimmons. They became so celebrated that pupils were sent to them from all quarters of the Highlands, and one of the best certificates that a piper could possess was his hav- ing studied under the Macrimmons. Findinc]^ the number of pu- pils daily increasing, they at length opened a regular school or college for pipe music on the farm of Boreraig, opposite to Dun- vegan Castle, but separated from it by Loch Follart. Here, so many years of study were prescribed, regular lessons were given out, certain periods for receiving the instructions of the mas- ter were fixed. The whole tuition was carried on as syste- matically as in any of our modern academies ; and the names of some of the caves and knolls in the vicinity still point out the spots where the scholars used to practise, respectively on the chanter, the small pipe, and the Piob mfiaTf or large bagpipe, before exhibiting in presence of the master. Macleod endowed this school by granting the farm of Boreraig to it, and it is no longer ago than seventy years since the endowment was withdrawn. It was owing to the following cause : The farm had been originally given only during the pleasure of the proprietor. For many ages 340 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the grant was undisturbed : but when the value of land had risen to six or seven times what it was when the school was founded, Macleod very reasonably proposed to resume one-half of the farm, offering at the same time to Macrimmon, a free lease of the other half in perpetuum ; but Macrimmon, indignant that his emoluments should be curtailed, resigned the whole farm, and broke up his establishment, which has never been restored. The Macrimmons were well educated 9 intermarried with highly respectable families, and were universally regarded as vastly supe- rior to the common class of the country people. A son of the last family piper holds the rank of captain in the British army, and is said to inherit the musical talents of his race. There are a few of them still residing in this parish, but they are born of what was reckoned a very low marriage for Macrimmon, and they do not possess either the talents or respectability of their progenitors. A Macrimmon still acts as piper to Macleod^ but he is not descend- ed of the Boreraig Macrimmons, who appear to have renounced their profession with their endowment. We know not whether there were establishments similar to that of Boreraig in other parts of the Highlands ; but it certainly is to bo regretted that it was dissolved, and also that we have not mi- nuter information as to the mode of training pursued by those who were universally acknowledged to be the first masters of bagpipe music. Eminent Persons. — Among the distinguished persons who were born in the parish, may be noticed Mary Madeod,.or ^^ Mairi Nigh inn Alastair Ruaidh," t. e. Mary, the daughter of red-haired Alexander, who lived at Dunvegan about 200 yeai*s ago, and was a near relative of the Chief of Macleod. Her fame is confined by the narrow bounds of the Gaelic language ; but wherever it is . known she is known, and admired as a poetess of the first order that has appeared in the Highlands for many ages back. Her concep- tions are remarkably vivid, and display much poetic fire ; her lan- guage is certainly very rich and varied ; and some of her composi- tions present instances, both of melting pathos and of rousing en- ergy, which might well bear comparison with many of the eulo« gized productions of modern days. She had a sister named Jean, who also composed songs and lyrics ; but the higher fame of Mary has caused Jean to be com- paratively forgotten. Many individuals born in this parish have distinguished them- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 341 selves both Id camp and council, especially in the former. Seve- ral might be named, of whom some are still living, who, born and reared in thatched cottages, have attained the rank of generals, and the dignity of knighthood ; and have held highly responsible offices under the Government of the country ; but we consider it foreign to the object of such an account as this to particularize them all. Land'Otoners. — Of the land-owners of the parish, Macleod of Macleod, who possesses about one-half of ther parish, is 6rst to be mentioned. Major Macdonald of Waternish ranks next to him in extent of territory. Mr Macleod of Orbost ; Mr Macleod of St Kilda ; Mr Maclennan of Lyndale ; Mr Gumming of Griesher- nish ; Mrs Murray of Cushledder ; Mr Nicolson of Husabost ; and Mr Macdonald of Skeabost, compose the remciinder. Nine in all. The only ^mansion-houses in the parish besides the Castle of Dunvegan, are those of Orbost, of Grieshernish, and of Waternish. Parochial Registers. — The parochial' registers have been very much neglected ; there being none extending farther than thirty years back ; and session-records, it may be mentioned, were not kept with any degree of fulness before the commencement of the year 1840. III. — Population. The number of the inhabitants of the parish was given in 181 1 at 3227; in 1821, at 4174; in 1831, at 4765; and now it is closely bordering on 5000. We do not here see any remarkable increase of population ; but the number bears a vast disproportion to the resources of the parish ; and is far greater than the soil can support This has been the case for many years back, — known and felt by every intelligent person connected with the country ; and thus it becomes interesting to inquire why such a state of things has been permitted by those who had it in their power to prevent it, and also how the popula- tion manage to subsist when the resources of the country are in- sufficient for them, and they have so little means of paying for imports from other countries. We answer the second question first, by stating that the people generally live on the poorest and scantiest fare, and many of thera for a part of the year are supported mainly by shell-fish ; that, by sending their families annually to the south to labour there, the parents are, to a certain extent, upheld; and that, when every other 342 INVERNESS-SHIRE. resource fails tbem, they live on their wealthier neighbours, some by begging, and some by stealing. As to the first question, the answering it will occupy some time, and in considering it, we should remember, both that population has, in all circumstances, a strong natural tendency to multiply it- self, and that among an uneducated people this tendency always increases in the direct ratio of their poverty. We see, then, that in this island strong checks were necessary to prevent an over- growth of population ; and we shall endeavour to state some of the causes which prevented and still prevent the application of these checks. In the olden time, the number of a chiefs followers constituted his wealth, his power, and his safeguard. He then, for the most obvious reasons, gave the produce of his lands to the support of his retainers, and thus the country was capable of supporting a larger number than it is now, when so much of its produce is given as rent ; and if scarcity were felt in these lawless days, a few forays or creaghs from some other district soon supplied it. After the abolition of the clan system, and when rents, whicii were at first very light, came to be exacted, the wars in which Britain was constantly engaged for such a series of years, afforded an outlet, to a considerable extent, to the superabundant popula- tion ; and many of those who did not avail themselves of this out- let emigrated to the North American colonies ; thus showing much more enterprise than is manifested by their descendants. Later still, the manufacture of sea-ware into kelp afforded abundant employment to all the islanders who were not engaged in the tillage of the soil, and amply rewarded their labour, so as to enable them to purchase such necessaries and comforts of life as they needed. During these times, then, the pressure of the population on the means of subsistence was but slightly and seldom felt, and consequently there was little cause to check its growth. Now, however, matters are completely changed. There is no recruit- ing for war. The kelp trade is completely at an end. The people do not emigrate. There are no public works where they may find employment. They raise but a very inadequate quantity of food, and they are, as the natural result, in great want and dis- tress. Yet there are reasons which still induce some persons ra- ther to encourage than to stop the increase of the inhabitants. We may first mention, as what in some instances, though unin- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 343 tentionally and indirectly, helps to aggravate the evil complained of, — the kindness of the proprietor of the soil. He sees his people increase too rapidly ; but they consider a separation from their native place the greatest of all earthly evils. While they can manage to procure a meal or two of potatoes in the day, they are contented, and implore permission to remain as they are. He can sympathize in their feelings of attachment to the place where they were born, and where their fathers are interred. He feels for them as his people, and, rather than inflict on them the misery of removal, he allows them to shift as they best may. But the selfishness both of tenants and proprietors does much more to augment the evil under consideration than the cause now referred to. Thus a tenant takes a &rm without sufficient capital to stock it, or to pay the rent. He has, however, a remedy at hand in letting portions of the farm as crofts to some of the poor people in the vicinity, who are always eager to get any piece of ground. These, for a time, pay part of his rent, perform much of his agri- cultural work, and yield him considerable profit. But frequently in the course of no long period, they also get into difficulties, when they betake themselves to their master's expedient of subletting. The half of the croft is given to the oldest son, who immediately marries ; a farther portion is perhaps given to some other relative. The crofts, or lots as they are here called, dwindle down into the most insignificant patches, incapable of yielding food even for a quarter of a year to the many families which occupy them. The wages earned by labour must then go to purchase food. The cow is sold to pay the rent, and the unfortunate crofter sinks into a state of the most abject poverty. Again, when land is purchased with the sole view of pecuniary gain, it is undoubtedly the purchaser's interest to subdivide it as minutely as possible, for it is well-known that when there is a re- dundant population, the smaller that the lots of land are the greater will be the number of competitors for them, and of course the more will the rent exceed the actual value. Such proprietors take care to give no leases to their letters. They keep them as tenants at will, and thus it is easy to eject them if they become unable to pay the rent, and just as easy to get others to occupy their place, to subject themselves to the same fleecing process. Sometimes the reduced letter, though deprived of his cow, is not driven away from the estate, but is sent to the sea shore, where he may get fish for his own support, and for payment to the landlord for his hut, and 344 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the liberty of cultivating a small patch of waste land. If these unhappy individuals, as very frequently happens, under the dread of starvation, forget the laws of God and man, so as to "put forth their hand to steal," their master knows perfectly that, like the fox, they will not plunder near their own den, — that they will go to a distance to forage; and he needs not fear that his sheep will be touched by them, while there are some belonging to any other person within reach of a long night's journey. Thus an avaricious proprietor may at any time increase his rent- al in this country, by the subdivision of his farms, and for some years he will succeed in exacting every penny of his rack-rent. Again, if he wish to sell his properly, the long rent-roll duly at< tested will enhance the value of it in the market. If he be de- sirous of borrowing money, through the same roll he may induce a money lender, ignorant of the actual state of matters, to advance on the security of the property a sum double its actual value. There are here strong temptations for hard-hearted avarice to deepen the evil under which the island already groans, to encou- rage the increase of the already teeming population, and there is an open door for cruelty on the one hand, and for fraud on the other ; but we are glad to say that there are few who have yielded to the wicked solicitation, — that the more enlightened of the land- owners and of the tacksmen of this parish are sincerely anxious to promote the comfort of their people. It must be evident, at the same time, to every thinking man, that, while some of the land-owners and tacksmen may be to blame for the present state of things, yet that the main cause of the evil is to be found in the ignorance of the people themselves. Were they enlightened, they would not submit to extortion or to want. They would seek in other quarters of the world the means of independent and comfortable subsistence. They might fare much better where they are. But generally they are unen- lightened — they are deplorably ignorant, and, being so, they are destitute of the true spirit of independence— of the proper ambi- tion to better their circumstances. They feel a blind, and, there- fore, a very powerful attachment to the rocks and glens amid which they were brought up-^an almost invincible aversion to abandon them. They are improvident as to their marriages, and also as to the husbanding of the slender resources which are within their reach. Many of them are utterly careless regarding the future. The immediate and most obvious remedy for the evils arising ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISTI. 345 from the superabundant |)opulation of the parish is confessedly the removing of numbers of the people, by emigration, to places where they may support themselves in comfort by the labour of their hands. This is a measure which is loudly called for by the circumstan- ces of the country,-^lemanded more loudly and imperiously each succeeding year, — and a measure which, if now neglected, will speedily force itself on the notice both of the land-owners, and the government of the kingdom, not only by the piteous wailing of want and of famine, — not only by the sad spectacle of a once mo- ral people becoming, through the hardening and animalizing in- fluence of grinding poverty, the reckless slaves of low passions, — but by the still more alarming, though not more woeful, spectacle of a loyal and peaceable people giving themselves up to robbery and rapine. The flocks of the large sheep-owners are annually thinned by those who feel the pinching of famine ; and to such an extent is this system carried now, that it has led to the proposal of establishing a rural police throughout the island, which is ex- pected to come into immediate operation ; a measure completely unprecedented in the history of the Highlands, We do not expect, of course, that the evil is to be completely cured by emigration : but if the population were once thinned by that means, education would go far to do the rest. And besides the improvuig effects of education on the character and habits of those who remain at home, it is well known to those who are acquainted with Skye, that the best educated among its common people generally, almost universally, have sought a foreign coun- try where to advance their fortunes; that very few of those who receive even the rudiments of a good education remain at home ; and were knowledge generally given them, there would be no call either for the Government or for the land-owners to interfere with them. Habits of the People. — The habits of the people are far from being cleanly. Shaving is only a weekly work, sometimes not so frequent ; water is but sparingly employed for the ablution of the person, while clothes are very rarely changed. The houses are wretchedly filthy, so much so, that it is cause of wonder that their occupiers enjoy such a measure of health as they do. These houses have but one door, opening at the end. Next to the door is the byre, where the cattle stand every night during the year, — the cows sometimes fas- tened by a straw rope to one of the raflers in the roof, while the INVERNESS. Z 346 INVERNESS-SHIRE. young animals go at large. The byre is cleaned only twice in the year, — at the beginning of winter, and at the end of spring, when the potatoes are planted ; and, previous to these respective periods, there are many feet of dung and straw in the dwelling. Over this height, however, it is necessary to climb in order to enter the kitchen, which is at the opposite end of the house, and separated from the byre only by a very thin partition of boards or wattles, that does not reach above half-way to the roof. There is seldom any other apartment than this, except it be a small space railed off where the potatoes and fish are stowed. The furniture is very scanty and rude. A couple of bedsteads, filled with straw or hea- ther or ferns, a few chairs, and a table, generally complete the list. Such of the family as cannot find room in the beds sleep on the floor, and a stone is always deemed a good substitute for a chair. Indeed, there are sonie houses where no chair is used, — stones, pieces of dried turf, and one or two small stools or settles consti- tuting the only seats. The mode in which these comfortless dwel- lings are built, is worthy of notice, as being very peculiar. The walls are uncommonly broad, in some instances six or even seven feet. Properly speaking, there are two walls, built at the distance of eighteen inches or two feet from each other. This vacant space is filled up with earth, and the whole covered over at the top with green sod. The rafters are rested on the inner edge of the inner wall, instead of being placed on the outer edge, as in other places, consequently there is a considerable breadth of the wall left com- pletely exposed, and the rain of course enters here, and continually deluges the house. But the people, while they are anxious to ex- clude the wind, seem to have no dread of damp. I have seen two sheep grazing abreast on the top of one of these walls, and they might easily give room to a third. Two men might walk round on some of them, without any danger of falling off. The fire is always placed on the middle of the floor, and the only outlet provided for the smoke, is a small circular aperture in the roof. There is seldom more than one window in a house. This is placed at the inner edge of the wall, where it gives least light; but very often, the hole where the window should be, is left open, except during a very strong wind, when it is stuffed up with some straw or rags of old clothes. Thus, owing to the exclusion of the light, and to the smoky atmosphere within the house, it is always enveloped in a twilight obscurity, which does not tend to the pro- motion of cleanliness or comfort. ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 34? The ordinary food of the peasantry is potatoes and fish, some- times potatoes and salt, and sometimes potatoes alone. Butcher- meat is almost unknown to them, and very little meal is used. Considering this wretchedly low diet on which they subsist, it is astonishing what work they perform, and what fatigue they un- dergo. Character. — The intellectual character of the people is good, — insomuch that, if a comparison were instituted between the advance- ment made by such Highland boys as attend school for a year or two, and that made by the boys of the peasantry in the Low- lands in similar circumstances, it would be found very much in fa- vour of the former. If we compare the amount of crime committed in our parishes here with that committed even in rural parishes in the south, the balance will still be found in favour of the Highlands. But it is too apparent, at the same time, that crime in this part of the coun- try has been much on the increase for several years back. This is partly owing to the poverty of the people : but in a great degree to the kind of intercourse which they carry on with the Lowlands. The great majority of the young women go thither annually dur- ing the harvest season, where they are not only withdrawn from the superintendence of their parents and friends, and destitute of the ordinances of religion, but are exposed to the contami- nation of the worst and most degraded society, and the effects are sadly visible in their loss of modesty and virtue. Many of them, after their return, give birth to children, who are unacknowledged by a father, and grow up without being received by the church, or much cared for by their mothers. There are several in the parish, of this unfortunate outcast class, unbaptized and unedu- cated. The young men generally go south in the latter end of spring, and continue at such work as they may find, until the begin- ning of winter, when they return home, and contribute of their earnings to the payment of their parents' crofts, but spend the remainder amid utter idleness* until the ensuing spring, when they resume their travels and their toil. Many of the aged men again, pass the months of June, July, and August, in fishing herring on the east coast of Scotland, and return to their homes only when their presence becomes necessary for the securing of their crops. Thus the population is quite a fluctuating one. The people, old and young, especially the latter, are for a considerable portion of 348 INVERNESS-SHIRE. the year removed from the salutary restraints of the presence of acquaintances and friends, and from the still more important re- straints of pastoral superintendence and gospel ministrations. The service of the sanctuary conducted in English is to them in an un- known tongue, from which they derive no benefit, and on which consequently they do not wait They are, while in the south, strangers, in whose moral or religious circumstances no one feels an interest ; and thus abandoned to their own wills, and exposed to the contact of society worse than themselves, they become each year more and more callous, and lawless, more and more confirm- ed in vice. A provision for the religious instruction of these poor wanderers who annually migrate from their own homes in quest of subsistence would certainly be a desirable boon. The people universally have a sense of religion, — of the religion of nature. Indeed, I have never met with a common Highlander who did not shudder at the mere mention of Atheism. At the same time, however, they are very ignorant of the religion taught in the Bible, — of the way of salvation through Christ Jesus. A strict profession of holiness is, it may be remarked, more honour- ed here than in many other parts of Scotland, the neighbouring county of Ross alone excepted, and there are some who act up to their profession. Yet the people generally are unacquainted both with the letter and the spirit of true religion, and there is much superstition, the sure concomitant of ignorance, still lingering among them. Our limits forbid us to enter at any length on this subject, but we may remark, that while it is now rare, though not unknown, to use charms or incantations for curing the diseases of the human frame, these means are daily resorted to for curing the diseases of cattle. " Silver water," as it is called, " fairy arrows,'* and " charmed stones," are still held to be possessed of much ef- ficacy, and they who have power to call forth their virtues are held in high estimation. There is at least one man in the parish who professes to be pos- sessed of the mysterious power known as the " second-sight" He affirms that he frequently foresees coming events ; but he wishes not to be spoken to on the subject, and seems to consider his gift a misfortune more than a benefit Smuggling may be said to be unknown now throughout the isl- and. A cask of foreign brandy or Hollands, and a roll of smug- gled tobacco are occasionally, but very rarely, received from some ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISII. 349 of the Baltic traders; and there is no illicit distillation carried on. Poaching is also nearly unknown. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Almost the whole population is engaged more or less in agriculture, lliere are five proprietors of land residing in the parish, all of whom farm to some extent, except one. There are seven tacksmen, or occupiers of large farms. There are 40 individuals who support themselves mainly by handicraft, or re- tailing merchandise : but all these have patches of land. There are two ministers, one surgeon, and ten schoolmasters in the pa- rish. There are at least 1200 grown up males employed in agri- culture during a considerable portion of the year, either as croft- ers, or as farm-servants. There are no retired capitalists among us. There are 1900 acres now in cultivation, and upwards of 3000 which were once cultivated, but are now in pasture. Thus there are about 40,000 acres which have always remained waste. There are 12,000 acres of these that might be brought into tillage, 4000 of which would probably yield a good return for the expense. The remainder, however, would require a greater outlay of capital than it would be prudent to expend upon them. 100 acres under wood ; no undivided common. The rate of grazing varies both according to the quality of the pasture, and the will of him who lets it. That of a cow ranges from L.1 to L.d, 10s. ; of a sheep from Is. to 4s. per annum. Wages, — The common wages of labourers are, in summer Is., in winter 9d. ; of artisans, 2s. 6d. without victuals ; of female ser- vants, from L.d to L.4, 10s. in the year ; of men, from L.6 to L.1 8, according tothe charge entrusted to them. I Ave- Stock, — There are still some of the caoirich bheaga^ or little sheep, — that is, the breed of sheep indigenous to the High- lands, — kept by the poor people ; but they are very worthless com- pared with the larger kinds introduced from the south. They are very diminutive in size, seldom weighing more than 30 ])Ounds, and are to be found of a great variety of colours, white, black, grey, brown, and sometimes with a mixture of all these. They are, however, useful to the common people, as they require very little food to support them, and are so tame as to allow themselves to be milked daily. Their wool is of a fine quality ; and their mutton possesses a delicacy of flavour which far surpasses that be- longing to the best fed of the larger kinds. These sheep constituted at one time all the flocks of the coun- 350 INVERNESS-SH!RE. try; and it is not above forty years since the caoirich mhora, or black-faced breed of the south, were introduced here. The gentleman who did introduce them is still living, though of an ad- vanced age. The black-foccd sheep were found to answer very well ; but they are now rapidly giving place to the Cheviots, which are found to answer still better. Every extensive farmer in the parish has adopted them as the most profitable stock ; and great attention has been paid to their improvement, so much so, that it is generally admitted that there are not better sheep in the whole county, than are reared in this parish. The black-cattle may be said to have given place almost en- tirely to the sheep. The crofters still keep them ; but those that they have, are of a very inferior description. There are only two of the gentlemen who retain what is called a fold of cows. These, however, are of very fine quality ; and it is evident that the soil is well adapted for the rearing both of sheep and black-cattle. Husbandry. — The most improved methods of husbandry were adopted several years ago by the land proprietors and the wealthy tacksmen ; but their example seems to have produced no effect on the common people, who still pursue a very antiquated, laborious, and unprofitable mode of tilling their land. It is rarely that they use a plough ; and though they are sufficiently well ac- quainted with the use of the spade, they never apply it to this purpose. The instrument in use among them is called cas^chrom^ literally the crooked leg, a kind of clumsy spade, or rather a very rude and primitive plough ; probably the primitive one which was subsequently so much improved on in various parts of the world. The cas^chrom is pointed with a piece of iron nearly half an inch in thickness, about ten inches in length, and four in breadth, which may be called its sock. Into this is fixed the sok, a strong piece of wood from two to three feet in length ; and to the sole is fastened, by means of nails, the handle or stilif which is about five feet in length, considerably thicker than a man's wrist, and forms a very obtuse angle with the sole or lower part At the junction of the sole and handle, there is a wooden pin, called sffonnatiy fixed in at right angles to the sole, for the foot to rest upon when the implement is used in digging. With this implement, rude and unwieldy as it is, accomplishing the work very superficially, do thousands of the inhabitants of this island, and of a few other portions both of Inverness and Ross- ISLAND OF SKYE DUIRINISH. 351 sliires, cultivate their lands ; not only plant, but hoe and dig their potatoes ; and it is difficult or apparently impossible to convince them, that there is any other which is better suited for these pur- poses. When oats or barley are put into the ground ploughed by the cas-chrom, it is harrowed, sometimes by means of a large rake made for the purpose, sometimes by a light harrow made of the or- dinary shape, but having wooden teeth, and drawn either by men or by women. I have seen this kind of harrow drawn by a horse ; but it was fastened in a very primitive, and, to me, a very new mode. The whole harness consisted of two straw ropes, the one of which was attached to the head, and the other to the tail of the animal. The one supplied the place of reins, the other of traces, collar, and hems. The harrow was tied to the tail by this straw rope, and the horse pulled away, apparently not much in- commoded by the weight fastened to it. In shearing their corn, the people use the common scythe hook ; but in tedding their hay, they use no rakes for gathering it This is done either by means of straight poles, or by the hands, and of course some of the hay is left on the ground, while much time is very needlessly lost The crofters have no notion of the advantage of following the rotation system in cropping. The only change is from oats to po- tatoes, and from potatoes to oats. But they do not always give such an advantage to the soil as is implied, even in this limited range. It is by no means uncommon to sow oats for three or four years running in the same spot, and that without giving it-any ma- nure. When it is getting out of heart, as it almost always does on the second year, the only mode of enriching it that is resort- ed to, is the heaping it up into narrower compass, — gathering in the edges of the broad ridges. This will ensure a tolerable crop from the centre of the ridge for another year, but meantime the sides be- come utterly unproductive. In the course of another year or two, the centre becomes equally so, and when the soil is thus complete- ly scourged and exhausted, it is left uncultivated for some four or five years, until it regains strength. But during this process of renovation it may be said to be totally useless, yielding nothing but weeds ; and even these in very small quantities. The oats sown are generally known as black oats, which are very small in the grain, and consequently yield little meal when ground. The potatoes also j^re of a soft and watery description. There is no attempt at draining or irrigation made. So little do the peo- 352 INVERNKSS-SniUK. pie know of the unfavourable effects of water on their crops, that many of them when cultivating slopes, or declivities, draw the fur- rows right across the face of the slopes, instead of drawing them up and down, so as to carry off* the water. The raising of clover, rye-grass, or turnip, is utterly unknown among them. It may be noticed, that the grain which is sent to the mill is ge- nerally dried in an iron pot over a common fire. The meal thus made is called mhi Urdraidli^ and is preferred both by the com- mon people and gentry to the meal dried on the ordinary kilns. It is also worthy of remark, that the grain is carried to the mill, not in sacks of the common description, but in sacks made of bent or rushes, or some other kind of grass. These are used as keep- ing places for grain and for meal. Indeed, they are the only sacks in use atnong the people, and are universally known by the name o( pidtdcltan. It was customary, not very many years ago, to per- form the processcsof thrashing and of kiln-drying the grain simul- taneously, by passing the sheaf of corn through a fire made of straw. The filaments that attach the grain to the stalk were rea- dily consumed, the grain fell down into the fire, which was so re- gulated as to scorch but not to consume it, and the remainder of the straw was thrown aside as useless litter. When the burning process was over, the grain was separated from the ashes and dust in which it had been buried, and ground by the quern or hand- mill. The meal thus made was called min ghrddaiu, and was very highly prized by all classes. It is not more than thirty years since this expensive and tedious mode of making meal was in al- most any instance departed from. So necessary to be followed was this method thought, that many intelligent farmers allowed their cattle to starve for want of provender during spring, while in order to have min ghradain^ they daily burnt more straw than would keep the cattle alive. I have it on undoubted authority, that a tacksman who died only a few years ago, a man of wealth and information, who used to quote the Georgics, and passages of Horace, over his bottle of wine, allowed, just thirty years ago, ten milch cows to die of starvation, while he had six stacks of corn in the barn-yard, all reserved lot min glirddain. Such are the effects of old habits. The general duration of leases is fifteen years. The fai-m- buildings are generally good, and the fences quite sufficient. There has been great advancement made within the last forty years in regard to draining, rotation of crops, introducing good seed, new ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 353 and effectual fanning implements, and in general all the improve- ments in agriculture known in the south by the upper classes. The chief obstacles to farther improvement by the gentlemen and tacksmen are the raininess of the climate, which renders it diffi- cult to secure a crop, though it should be reared ; in some instan- ces, want of capital, and in others, indifference to the subject. Among the cottars, again, one obstacle is want of leases ; (it should be remembered that they are only the occupiers of extensive farms who generally have leases, — that the cottars are almost universally tenants at will) ; want of capital, ignorance, and the rooted at- tachment that they feel to the habits in which they have been brought up. They know that the system which they follow is an unproductive one. They see a proper system pursued by the gen- tlemen around them : but some will say that they will not bestow their labour on improving land which may become another's be- fore the end of a year. Others again, that they cannot afford to ])urchase good farming implements, to drain or to enclose ; and many, that they will live as their forefathers did. Fisheries. — There are no fisheries for which rent is exacted ; but there is a\;onsiderable quantity offish caught in the creeks and lochs on the coast. The average annual value may be stated at L. 900. The fish is chiefly cod and ling, which are split up, salt* ed, dried, and in this state sent to the market. Raw Produce. — The total value of raw produce raised in the parish I am unable to state. The rental is L.4200, and the crop is not sufficient for food to the inhabitants, during more than eight or nine months of the year. Kelp. — There are about eighty tons of kelp manufactured an- nually in the parish. It does little more than repay the bare expense of making ; but it is taken as payment of rent by one of the landed proprietors ; and thus he turns the labour of the people to some account. Navigation. — There are three wherries, each about ten tons burden, belonging to the parish. No foreign vessels visit it for the purpose of trading. V. — Parochial Economv. Market'Town^ §-c. — There is no market-town in the parish. The nearest is that of Portree, which is twenty-four miles distant from the central part of the parish. There is a village called Stein, in the district of Waternish, built several years ago by the North British Fishery Society, which, however, has not in any 354 INVERNESS-SHIRE. degree answered the benevolent purposes contemplated by its builders. Means of Communication, — There is one post-office, where there are arrival?, and from which there are despatches of letters three times a-week. The length of turnpike road is about thirty-five miles. There are no canals or railroads. The harbours have been noticed in an early part of the account. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated in the centre of the parish, and is accessible to as many of the parishioners as will fill it ; l)ut it is very remote from nearly two-thirds of the po- pulation, many of them being eleven miles distant from it. It was built nine years ago, and is both substantially and tastefully finish- ed. It is seated for nearly 600. All the seats are rent free. There is no manse in the parish, the heritors allowing L.57 an- nually in lieu of it. The extent of the glebe is very great, being a mile and a quarter long by a mile broad ; but, owing to the poverty of the soil, the annual value of it is not more than L.dO. The stipend paid by the heritors is L.96. The deficiency is made up by the Exchequer. There is a church, built by the Church Extension Committee, situated in the district of Flasheddar or Arnizort, about twelve miles from the parish church. It contains 330 sitters, and is a very great convenience to the district ; but no minister has been appointed to it. There is a Government church, as already mentioned, in the district of Waternish, which forms a parish quoad sacray having a population of 1700. There are neither mission- aries nor catechists in the parish, though both are very much needed. There is no Dissenting chapel of any description. All the parishioners profess to belong to the Established Church, ex- cept four families, who attend an Episcopalian chapel, which is situated in the neighbouring parish of Bracadale. The sacrament of the Lord's Supper has not been dispensed at the parish church for the last eleven years until 1840, when only 35 communicants partook of the ordinance. In the Government church of Waternish, there was about the same number. It may be noticed here, that there is in this parish, as in almost every other parish in Skye, a set of men who regard " sealing ordinances" as of very little importance, — who seem to think that their efficacy depends to a great extent on him who ad- ministers them, and thus will receive them from the hands of a minister whom they approve of in every respect, but will, on no account, receive them from a person to whom they have an objec- ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRTNISH. 355 tion, however trivial ; who, again, think that the efficacy will be completely taken away by the presence, at the same table with them, even of one unconverted person, — and being very uncharita* ble in forming an estimate of the character of those whose opinions differ in any respect from their own, they are remarkably scru- pulous as to those with whom they will partake. Through the in- fluence of these men (among whom there are some lay-preachers), aided by others who ought to have known better, the majority of the people have been brought to regard the sacraments, especially that of the Lord's Supper, with a degree of horror which causes almost all of them to avoid partaking of it. Thus there are nearly 200 children in the parish unbaptized, and the table of the Lord is unfrequented. It has, to a certain extent, become a proof of piety to avoid partaking of the sacraments ; and it is much to be feared that, when Christ's commands in regard to one subject have come to be set aside for the opinions of men. His commands in re- gard to others will, in process of time, be treated with equal dis- regard. Yet the unscriptural notions under consideration are daily gaining ground in the place. There have been L.64 contributed in the parish this year for religious and educational purposes. Education. — There are ten schools in the parish, — one paro- chial ; five supported by the Assembly's Education Committee ; three by the Gaelic School Society ; one by an Episcopalian So- ciety ; and one unendowed. Gaelic alone is taught in the three schools supported by the Gaelic School Society. In all the others English and arithmetic are taught The salaries of the school- masters do not average more than L.23 per annum. The school fees everywhere, except in the parochial school, where they amount to about L.8 a-year, are merely nominal, or very nearly so, not averaging L.I in each school. The fees charged in the parish school range from 8s. to 1 2s. in the year, according to the branches taught One-third of the children between six and fifteen years are unable to read, and of the grown-up population there are two* thirds in the same condition. The people, in general, are very indifferent regarding education, and keep their children from school for very trifling reasons. They are so very apathetic on this subject, that it would be highly de- sirable to introduce the compulsory regulations of Prussia among them. There is a portion of the parish where there are 150 chil- dren capable of attending school, who are so distant from a school- :]56 INVERNESS-SHIRE. house as to render attendance impossible ; but we have a promise of a school in this locality from the Assembly's Education Com- niittee. Still, there are three additional schools required, in order to render it easy for all the children to attend. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There arc 100 persons who rank as ordinary paupers, besides from 40 to 50 who receive occasional relief. The sum annually contributed for their support is a mere trifle. During the last year they got L. 10 as a legacy ; L.14 as donations from two individuals connected with the parish ; L.10 from two of the heritors ; and L.7 from church door collections ; mak- ing a total of L.41. Those who received the highest allowance did not oret more than 10s. The sum annually collected at the church door, does not amount to more than L.10, und there is no regular provision whatever made for the poor. They beg from place to place, and are always liberally assisted both by the tacks- men and by the crofters, who have anything at all to spare. But| at the same time, the condition of those who are bed-rid is a very wretched one ; while some of those who go about^ though they re- ceive food, are miserably ill off in regard to clothing. Some time ago, it was thought degrading to apply for aid from the poor's funds ; but this is not so by any means now, and there are many applying for relief who have no title to it. Fairs. — There is one fair annually held at a place called Fairy Bridge, which is three miles from Dunvegan. It is held for the purpose of disposing of black-cattle, but very few are sold there. luns, — There are two inns and three dram-houses or ale-houses* as they are sometimes called, in the parish. The principal inn, which is at Dunvegan, is remarkably well kept ; and it is always found, that where the inn-keeper is a man of right principle, there are few excesses committed in his house. Two of the other houses are entirely supernumerary, yet, much to the credit of the people, there is no great quantity drunk in them. The people generally are remarkably sober. Fuel. — The only fuel used by the common people is peat& MiSCELLANEOTIS OBSERVATIONS. Very great changes have taken place in the parish, both in re- gard to the aspect of the country, and to the habits of the people, since the last Statistical Account was published. The formation of roads and bridges may be first adverted to* Twenty-five years ago, there was only one bridge in the parish) and not a mile of carriage road. Now, there are lines of excellent 4 ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIIilNISlI. 357 road traversing it in various directions, and every stream that crosses these lines is spanned by a bridge. The district of Glendale is the only part that is yet left in its original inaccessible state. It may not be undeserving of notice, as illustrative of the effects of long-formed habits, and of that prejudice against innovation which is natural to a primitive race, that, for some years after the con- struction of roads, the common people would not on any account travel on them. They said that the stones and gravel both bruis- ed the feet, and wore the shoes, and they preferred to follow the old paths, uneven and boggy as they were. Now, however, they have become reconciled to level, dry, and hard roads, and the old paths are almost undistinguishable, being covered with heather and moss. The mode of agriculture pursued on the larger farms has like- wise undergone a total change. Now, fields of clover and turnip are to be seen, where at one time there was nothing but use* less bog-grass growing ; and a system of five years' rotation is adopted instead of the old one of two. New agricultural imple- ments have likewise been introduced. No longer than twenty years ago, ploughs made entirely of wood, with the exception of the sock and coulter^ were to be seen dragged by four horses, which required two men to drive them, and whose work was so imper- fectly done, that three men were employed in beating down the only half-turned furrows, and levelling the very uneven surface left behind. Wooden harrows, and carts of very clumsy workman- ship, in the few places where carts were available, were the only ones used; while generally, the articles to be transported from one place to another were carried on horses' backs. Now, one man drives a pair of horses with an iron plough, and does more than the work of six men with four horses. Iron harrows, carts of the best description, and indeed every farming implement used in the south of Scotland, are to be seen every day. Both dwelling-houses and farm-offices have undergone an equal- ly great improvement ; and the stock has been completely changed. About thirty-five years ago, black-cattle and horses constituted the wealth of the tenantry, and were found grazing on the tops of the highest hills. The few sheep kept were almost exclusively used for the table. The gentleman who broke in upon this sys- tem, is still living in a neighbouring parish, and has seen black- faced sheep universally introduced, and again give place to Che- viots, which now graze from the summits of the hills to the 358 INVERNESS-SUIllE. lowest meadows^ constitutinjg^ almost the sole stock of the tacks- men. The habits of the upper classes have likewise altered to some extent. They pay much more attention to literature than it was formerly customary to do; and the boisterous conviviality whicli, thirty years ago, was in very high estimation among them, is now almost universally abandoned raid discountenanced. Their hospi- tality continues as unbounded as ever, but in the exercise of it the rules of temperance or decorum are very rarely violated, and every excess is condemned and discouraged. The immensely increased facilities of attaining education make a great and most beneBcial change in the situation of the common people. Now, there are not more than 200 or 300 children in the parish who may not, without any very long journeys, attend school daily. Twenty years ago, there was not that number who could attend school. Schools have not yet produced the effects which they are fitted to do. Rut their influence is felt more and more each succeeding year ; and could the parents be prevailed upon to keep their children regularly in them for the space of a few years, they would ?oon work a total and most beneficial change in the condition of the community. The people have become less social, but much more peaceable in their conduct towards one another, and more temperate than they formerly were. It was, as is well known, customary for neighbours to visit each other*s houses nightly, and to while away part of the long winter evenings, in reciting tales and traditions, singing songs, or playing some musical instrument. Now, all this is completely given up. It is with difficulty that a tradition re- garding the once most popular characters or events can be picked up. " The Tales," or " Sgeulachdan^'' seem to be totally forgot- ten. It is rare to hear a song sung, and still rarer to hear the sound of pipe or violin. Each family confines itself to its own dwelling, or, if a visit is paid, the time is spent in retailing the silly gossip of the day. People certainly may be far more beneficially employed than the old Highlanders used to be ; yet we conceive the change in their habits to be a subject of regret on various grounds. The traditions of a country — the only source of infor- mation concerning bygone days in the absence of written records — are always interesting and instructive ; and it is to be lamented that the traditions of the Highlands have been to a great degree irrecoverably lost. Still more is it to be deplored that the d ISLAND OF SKYE — DUIRINISH. 359 " Sgeulachdan" or tales, which were at one period so universally prized, are now so conipletely forgotten ; for they were not only couched in apt and beautiful language, showing that the Gaelic, now become so harsh, and rusty, and unmanageable, was at one time smooth, euphonous, and pliable ; but the imagery employed ill them displayed often a rich and highly cultivated fancy ; while they almost universally contained a moral, highly important and well-pointed. In these and in the proverbs of the country, were the collective wisdom and intelligence of the Highlands to be seen. But both tales and proverbs are now nearly lost ; and while most interesting fragments might yet be recovered and preserved, the time for making a complete collection is for ever past. It is at the same time sincere cause of joy to every one truly interested in their welfare, that the people have abandoned their old customs in solemnizing funerals and marriages. Not many years ago, the memory of a person even in the humblest ranks would be thought dishonoured, unless from fifty to sixty individuals accompanied his remains to the grave. During the ^^fdrair^^ or wake, and especially on the day of the interment, such a quantity of meat and drink was distributed as kept the nearest surviving relatives for several years in the greatest poverty, in order to pay them, and what was far more to be lamented, so much whisky was drunk in the church, or in the churchyard after the ititerment, that people often forgot the sacredness of the place, and the so- lemnity of the occasion, renewed old feuds and dissensions, and fought fiercely amid the graves of their ancestors. The sod which, but a short time previous, was bedewed with the tears, and wit- nessed the lamentations of relatives mourning for him who was laid underneath, was stained with the blood, and became witness to the oaths and imprecations of other relatives, perhaps equally sincere in their attachment to the deceased, but for a time under the ungovernable influence of intoxication. Happily, however, these savage scenes are known now, only as the things of bygone days. Indeed, what may be termed a violent reaction has taken place in the feelings and customs of the people in regard to the funeral obsequies of their friends, which are at the present day conducted more quietly and privately than perhaps in any other portion of Scotland* Only a very few friends, generally from ten ' to fifteen, assemble to the interment of a common man, and the expense incurred does not amount to more than a very trifling sum, from L.I to L.1, 10s. SnO INVKRNKSS-SMIRK. The cliatige in regard to marriages is equally great. Formerly, from 60 to 1 00 persons used to assemble, and to pass at least two days in feasting and dancing. Now the average number does not exceed five or six ; the bridal feast is often nothing more than the usual poor fare of potatoes and herrings, with the addition of a glass of whisky to each individual present, and music and dancing are generally discontinued. Balls and dancing parties have also been given up throughout the parish. Indeed, all public gather- ings, whether for shinty playing, or throwing the putting-stone, for drinking and dancing, for marriages or funerals, have been discontinued, and people live very much apart. There is not a- tenth part of the whisky consumed that was consumed in the olden time ; nor is there one fight for ten that were then fought. Disputes are now referred to the arbitration of the Sheriff, instead of being settled bv club-law. In regard to the general morals of the parish, — a change which, upon the whole, may be pronounced decidedly favourable, has taken place. An open and unshrinking profession of religion, of the faith of Christ, is more frequent and more honoured than it was not many years ago ; and while there are some guilty of more glaring immorality than was then known, yet there are others leading lives of stricter purity and godliness. Thus the two ex- tremes are separating more widely, and it is cause of rejoicing to think, that, though the wicked are becoming more bold in their wickedness, believers are at the siime time becoming more cou- rageous in the cause of the Lord, and that, being engaged in his cause, they will assuredly prevail. Tehruary 1841. PARISH OF KILMORACK. PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. SIMON ERASER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History, Name^ Situation^ and Extent — The parish of Kilmorack, like many other parishes in the Highlands of Scotland, derives its name from its having afforded burial ground to some reputed saint or person of distinction — Kill MhoraCj signifying the bury- ing-ground of young Marion. From what family the lady sprung, cannot with certainty be determined ; though it seems most like- ly she was a descendant of one of the lairds of Chisholm, who, long before the Reformation, was the principal resident heritor in the parish, and to whose family a large proportion of it still belongs. The parish is bounded on the south, by the River Beauly, the parishes of Kirkhill and Kiitarlity ; on the north and east, by the parishes of Urray and Killearnan ; and on the west, by the pa- rish of Kintail. Topographical Appearances, — To a spectator placed on an emi- nence where an extensive view of this parish could be obtained, it would present a scene of sublimity and grandeur, united with rich- ness and beauty, almost unrivalled. Its eastern extremity consists of a large open plain, about three miles in diameter. Along its southern boundary, the river Beauly gently glides. About two miles west from the village of Beauly are situated the celebrated Falls of Kilmorack, which are annually visited by hundreds from all parts of the empire. They are less remark- able for their height than for their breadth, and the great volume of water poured over the precipice. The beautiful accompani- ments of lofty rocks, green banks, and hanging woods, which encir- cle them$ greatly add to the charms of the scene. As the water ap- proaches the precipice, 20 feet in height, it ** hovers doubtful, ^is it were, for a moment over the gulf, and as if forced reluctantly by the unconscious river behind, it is poured down without resistance, in one unbroken ponderous mass," into a deep cavern, which cannot INVERNESS. K\)l 302 INVERNESS-SHIRE. be viewed without feelings of apprehension. It then, for a short distance, gently pursues its course, and slowly forces its passage through a narrow opening between two lofty precipices, when it suddenly expands into an open semicircular basin, through which it glides with a sluggish motion, and is then precipitated over the low- er falls in a variety of cataracts. On the northern brow of the cliff, stands a little handsome summer-house, from which an advanta- geous view of this romantic scene can be obtained. The falls not be- ing suflSciently high or powerful, when the river is in any measure flooded, the salmon attempt to leap over the cascades ; often, how- ever, in the act of springing, they fall aprey to those who stand watch- ing them on the banks with hooks, or spears fixed to long rods ; or from the constant agitation of the water where they swim, on ac- count of the height from which it falls, they mistake their direc- tion and land on the dry rock. Branches of trees have been arrang- ed along the edges of these shelves, to prevent them from regain- ing the river, and by this means from eight to twelve of them have been caught in one night. It is reported of one of the Lords of Lovat, that, having met, on a certain occasion, an English gentle- man, and the conversation turning on the objectsof curiosity on their properties, he (Lovat) boasted that there was a kettle of boiling water on the south side of the river which flowed through his estate, in- to which the salmon from the river frequently leaped. The true ac- count of this apparently wonderful fact is, that, at the bottom of the southern precipice, there is a circular pit, kept constantly in a state of agitation by the descending volume of water, into which the salmon are driven back, when attempting to ascend the stream. For the space of two or three miles west of the parish church, the course of the Beauly is most romantic. This spot is called the Dhruim, (the back.) On cither side the mountain acclivities are co- vered with birch and fir, and the edges of the river are beautifully lined all along with rows of oak, weeping-birches, and alders. The river, during this part of its course, consists of a series of cascades, precipitated over shelving masses of red sandstone, while in the middle of the strath, close by the farm-house of Teanassie, tUe waters plunge through a rocky passage, encircling high pyramids of stone, standing in the midst of the stream. At the farther end of the Dhruim, stands the Island of Aigrsh, on which the present proprietor has built a beautiful dwelling-house* The western division of the parish assumes a wilder and rough- er aspect : it is of decidedly Alpine character. It consists of the KILMORACK. 363 three great glens of Stratliglass, Glenstrafarrar, and Glencannich, so called from the different streams which run through each. Meteorology, — The climale may be said to be generally humid and mild. The thermometer in the hot season ranges between 70° and 80°, while in the depth of winter it has not for some years past been observed below 24° of Fahrenheit. The average temperature may be stated about 48°. The changes in the baro- meter are frequent and rapid, often rising and falling half an inch in the course of an hour. Hydroyraphy, — 'I'he principal river is the Beauly, compos- ed of the three lesser streams Farrar, Cannich, and Glass, in- cluding Dheaick. Lakes are found almost in every district of the parish. The principal of these, are Loch Monar, Loch Beinevean, and Loch Affric, which are surrounded by the re- mains of an extensive pine forest. The scenery of these lakes is of singular grandeur: and perhaps, in that respect they are un- equalled by any in Scotland. On the mountain of Maum Soule, on the north side of Loch Beinevean, is the largest known body of perennial snow in Britain. In the middle of June, when the sun is vertical, a very little part of it only is dissolved. At the re- mote end of Glen-Strathfarrar lies Loch Muilie. In the centre of this loch, there is a small island, to which it is reported the late Lord Lovat retired, after the total defeat of his party at Cul- lodpn. Here, there is now a very neat shooting-box, which the present proprietor erected. Four or five miles further to the west, Loch Monar occupies a wild hollow a little to the north of the mountain Scour- nalapich, which in height almost equals Bennevis, Here there is an excellent fishing station, which is frequently resorted to by those who are fond of this sport. Geology and Mineralogy, — The prevailing rocks in the parish are gneiss, the old red sandstone, and the conglomerate rock, near Little Struy. A black lead mine, situated in a thick vein of heavy spar, traversing gneiss, was opened some years ago by Lovat, but it did not turn out profitable, the rock being exceedingly tough and hard, and the quality of the plumbago rather inferior. The soils in this parish are various — rich loamy, clayey, sandy, and gravelly. Zoology, — Most of the animals found in this parish are such as are common to the Highlands in general. In the western glens the red-deer are found in abundance ; — ^polecats, weasels, and liares are numerous. In many parts, the rabbits are a vwvsir 304 INVERNESS-SIIIRE. sance. They excavate their burrows in the lower slopes of sandy hillocks, whence they issue in scores, greatly damaging the corn in the neighbourhood. Two or three hundred of them have been often killed on some farms, in the short space of ten days. The fox is still an inhabitant of our glens. In the precipices among the higher mountains, the eagle builds its nest ; hawks of different species abound, as do also the owl, rook, hooded-crow, jackdaws, and raven. Magpies are not unfrequent. Blackcock and grouse of different varieties are numerous ; the ptarmigan is frequently met with ; and partridges are abundant. The rock and wood-pigeon often occur. Fishes. — The Beauly abounds in salmon, grilse, and trout. The fishing season of the salmon commences on the 1st of Fe- bruary ; of the grilse, on the 1st of June ; and of the trout, on the 1st of July. A stray pike is found now and then. Yellow trout are also sometimes met with. The lakes in the different districts abound in pike and trout Botany. — There is nothing very peculiar in the Flora of this parish. The Vaccinium oxycoccos^ called the badge of the clan Grant, is found in the hills of Strathglass. The edges of many small pools are encircled with broad and beautiful belts of the Nywphea alboj or white water-lily. The trees indigenous to the soil are, oak, birch, fir, and alder. Larch, hazel, and spruce were some time ago introduced, and seem to be quite congeniaL In the upper districts of the country, there were formerly extensive pine forests ; the only relics of which are a few solitary trees, that still cling to the precipices, or trunks dug up from the mosses. II. — Civil History. Eminent Persons. — The first individual worthy of notice, is the Rev. John Farquharson, well known as the first collector of Gaelic poetry. He resided, for upwards of thirty. years, in the Strath- glass district of the parish, in the capacity of Jesuit missionary. Some time after the Rebellion of 1745, Mr Farquharson was ap- pointed Prefect of Studies in the Scots College of Douay, where he remained till the year 1773. Having returned to Scotland at this period, he left his MSS. behind him ; but these papers having fallen into the hands of persons unacquainted with the language, were to- tally mutilated and destroyed. Information, however, was after- wards obtained from those who were students at Douay during Mr Farquharson's residence there, that after Macpherson's translation of Ossian's Poems appeared, they had a distinct recollection of Far- KILMOUACK. 365 quharson comparing them with some of those in his collection ; and remarking, that in many places, the translation fell far short of the original. The poems of Fingal and Temora were parti- cularly mentioned as having been thus compared. The late Chisholm of Chisholm, chief of the clan of that name, cannot pass unnoticed in any account of this parish. His eminent classical and scientific attainments, graced and sanctified by his unostentatious and unfeigned piety, rendered him peculiarly fitted for the honourable situation of representing his native county in Parliament. To that situation he was called at an early period of his life ; but death cut short his career almost in its commence- ment. The schemes of usefulness which he projected and carried on in the midst of his poor tenantry, remain, however, to testify his unbounded generosity and philanthropy. Antiquities. — In different parts of the parish, are to be seen the remains of many Druidical temples; and there is a chain of walled structures within sight of one another, proceeding up the river Beauly, and along the course of its parent streams, the Farrar and the Glass, and from the latter to Glen Affric. But what most attracts the attention of the traveller is the ruins of the Priory of Beauly, which rears its venerable walls above the aged trees which surround it. It belonged to the order of Valliscaulium, — a reformed portion of the Cistercians, following the rule of St Bennet, who were brought into Scotland in the beginning of the thirteenth century, by Malvoison, Bishop of St Andrews. This priory was founded by James Bisset of Lovat in the year 1230. The conditions in behalf of its founder were, ** ut pro ipso, dum viveret, ora- rent Monachi ; post mortem, funus corpusque exciperent, atque animam de corpore abeuntem, per continua sacrificia et opera pie- tatis prosequerentur." His charter is confirmed by Pope Gregory III. Rom. Julii, pontificatus sui anno quarto. The ruins bear no trace of turret or steeple, and are entirely destitute of sculpture or ornament ; but the area they enclose is nearly covered with tomb- stones of an unknown antiquity. The north aisle belongs to the Mackenzies of Gairloch, and the efiigy of a recumbent knight in full panoply under an arched canopy, marks the resting-place of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, eighth laird of Kintail, who died in 1493. The other divisions of it consist of the burying-grounds of the principal branches of the clan Fraser, of the Chisholms, and other tribes of Strathglass. From the total absence of letters on manv of the tombstones, it may be inferred that writing was unknown 366 INVERNKSS-SIllRE. in this country when these were constructed. The earliest inscrip- tions are dated 300 years after its foundation. They are all id the Saxon character, and are formed on the margin of an effigy of the deceased. On the north side of the front door, there is an im- pression similar to that made by the fingers of a man's hand : and the following legend commemorates the origin of that impression : A report having gone abroad that a stranger from the invisible world was paying his nightly visits to the priory, there was a gene- ral dread of approaching it after sunset A tailor in the neigh- bourhood, engaged, however, to finish two pairs of hose in it on a certain night, at an appointed hour. While he was busily occu- pied in performing his task, there appeared before him a huge spec- tre, stretching out its bony arm, and exclaiming, ^' See, tailor, a great hand without flesh and blood ;" to which the valiant tailor re- plied, ^^ I see that, and I sow this." The same expression was uttered thrice, and the tailor's work being finished, he rose to depart, when the spectre pursued with uplifted hand, attempting to strike him. The hand, however, missed its aim, and struck the side of the door, upon which it left the impression of its fingers.* On the Muir of Ord, to the east of Beauly, there are two up- right stone pillars, nearly six feet high, commemorative of a feat of ancient warfare, and connected, it is said, with a prophecy re- garding the extinction of the clan Mackenzie. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers of this parish ex- tend as far back as the sixteenth century; but, from the irregular manner in which they have been kept till within the last thirty or forty years, no information of importance can be derived from them. Land-Owners. — The landed proprietors of the parish are, the Honourable Lord Lovat, and Chisholm of Chisholm. III. — Population. The population of the parish at tlie time of the last Statistical Accoubt was 2818 by l!he census in 1831, - ... 2709 of the village of Beauly, .... 50B Consequently the country population amounts to - • 2201 The increase of population during the last thirty years has been principally owing to the influx of people from other quarters into the village of Beauly. The native inhabitants have increased but * In the house of the priests who officiated in this priory, Queen Mary, it is said, was entertained for a night ; and upon seeing in the morning the beautiful Tiew from its windows, she exclaimed, <' C*est un beau lieu ;" and hence the name. Beau- ty* was given to the vilkige and river. KILMORACK. 367 little. The letting of large tracts of land to single individuals has occasioned the banishment of many of them, who, for many gene- rations, possessed the soil. They have been forced to seek an asy- lum in a foreign land, where they enjoy Nature's bounties in richer abundance. In a parish of such extent, it is impossible to ascertain with exactness the number of deaths, marriages, and births. Of the first no register is kept ; and there are so many Roman Catholics in the Highland part of it, that even the marriages and births can* not be ascertained. Of the Protestant population, however, the average number of baptisms for the last seven years may be reckon- ed at 46 annually ; and marriages, 9. The number of insane persons in the parish is 14, and of blind, 4. Character and Habits of the People. — In many of the western parts of the country, the march of improvement has been very slow, and the strongholds of superstition are not yet demolished. The people are in general below the middle size, but uncom- monly hardy, and capable of enduring privation. They are fond of performing long journeys in the night season ; and it is nothing strange to see a married man travelling with his horse and cart a distance of thirty miles, without a bonnet on his head. The language generally spoken in the inland part is the Gaelic, white, in the eastern extremity, few are found, who cannot speak the English. There is among all classes an earnest desire that their children should acquire a knowledge of the latter. Little can be said i(i praise of their sobriety. The quantity of ardent spirits consumed is immense. A great deal, however, of that rioting at marriages and funerals, which formerly existed, has been done away with. Their favourite amusements are shinty matches and dancing. They are particularly fond of being neat and clean : and the ambition for articles of finery is widely spread among the rising youth. Poaching and smuggling are nowjalmost discon- tinued. IV. — Industry. From the great extent of this parish, and the various directions in which the large and small farms lie, the number of acres which are cultivated, in pasture, or under wood, cannot with any certainty be determined. On the Lovat property, about 200Q acres may be in tillage; while, on the estate of the Chisholm, the average is about 900. The upper district of the parish is in general pastoral ; and much attention is not paid to tillage^ 368 INVERNESS-SHIUE. except to obtain what is requisite for family use. There are many thousand acres under wood, paitly natural and partly planted. Great attention is bestowed on the management of trees ; they are thinned annually, and most of the fir trees felled are sold for railway sleepers; while the birch is manufactured into staves for barrels. Rent of Land. — The rent of arable ground varies with the qua- lity of the soil. A few lots are rented at L. 4, 10s. and L. 4 per acre; many large farms at L. 2, L.2, 5s. and L.2, 10s.; many others from L.1, lOs. to L.I. The average rent may be stated at L.1, 1 5s. per acre. The average rent of pasture is reckoned at L.4 or L.4, lOs. for each ox or cow, including pro- vender for winter. Hill pasture, however, in summer, with pro- vender in winter, may be obtained for L.1, 10s. The average rent paid for a ewe or full-grown sheep pastured for a year, is from 2s. 6d. to ds. Wages. — Farm-servants are usually hired for the year. If married, they receive, together with a small dwelling-house, from L. 12 to L. 15 a year; 6 barrels of coals; 6 bolls of oat- meal; and 6 bolls of potatoes. Some also receive pasture for a cow. Unmarried farm-servants frequently, and female-servants commonly, are boarded in their master's house, and receive only money wages, the former from L. 8 to L.10, and the latter from L. 3 to L. 4 per annum. Common labourers receive Is. 6d. per day in summer, and Is. per day in winter without victuals. Masons and carpenters 2s. 6d. per day. Cheviot wool sell sat 14s. per stone, cross 12s.; cheese 6s., and butter 18s. per stone; meal from 17s. to 20s. per imperial boll; and potatoes from 7s. to lOs. per boll of 4 barrels (each barrel containing 32 gallons.). Live-stock. — Formerly, the sheep in the parish were the few possessed by the farmers for their own consumption; the rearing for the use of .others was little attended to ; while now, the rich pasture of our country is occupied by thousands of the different breeds. The most common are the Cheviot and black-faced. Much attention is bestowed upon the improvement of this titock. Husbandry. — Improvements in agriculture have made rapid pro- gress in this parish, of late years. The mode pursued is not in- ferior to that in the most improved districts. Lime is generally used. Bone dust has also been lately introduced, for raising tur- nips, and with good effect. As the soil, in many places, is rather wet| agreat deal of draining is required, which has only as yet been 3 KILMORACK. 3(/9 partially effected. According to the terms of agreement, a regu- lar rotation of cropping is observed so far as soil and season will permit The shift is every five years. The first year is generally bare fallow or potatoes ; 2d, wheat or barley ; Sd, grass ; 4th, grass ; and the 5th, barley or oats, but most commonly oats : after that, the land is dunged before the rotation commences again. The general duration of leases is fifteen years ; latterly, it has been increased to nineteen. The former of these is very unfavourable to the tenant, as it affords little time for making improve- ments. There are scarcely any enclosures in the parish; and, with very few exceptions, the farm-buildings are very indifferent. The deficiency of capital with many, and the want of encourage- ment by proprietors, are greatly felt as drawbacks to improve- ment. Quarries^ Fisheries^ and Manufactures. — The only quarries in the parish are of red sandstone : it is of inferior description, and used for common purposes. The only fishery is on the Beauly ; the annual rental of which is L.1600. Many thousand trees are annually cut down in the Lovat and Chisholm woods. These are sawn into square timber, planks, deal, staves, sleepers, &c. for the home and English markets. Navigation. — There are only two small vessels belonging to the parish. A great number of vessels, however, from other quarters, trade to the place with coals, lime, &c : and in return, they are supplied with cargoes of wood. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Taum. — The nearest market-town is Inverness, which is situate at the distance of eleven miles. The means of com- munication are excellent, inasmuch as the Parliamentary road traverses the whole length of the parish, and is kept in such excellent repair, that it may vie with the roads of more southern districts. The village of Beauly is pleasantly situate at the eastern ex- tremity of the parish. It is a village of some extent — having its principal street formed generally of slated houses, and exhibiting some well-stocked shops. A post-office has been established in it for the last fifty years ; the north mail daily passes through it ; and foot-runners go from it through various parts of the country. A sheriff- officer constantly resides in it ; and there has lately been established a branch of the North of Scotland Banking Company, which promises to be of great advantage to the agricultural and 370 INVL'ttNESS-SHIRE. inei'caiitiie interests of the district. The harbour is small, and iioC of the best description. The principal bridges in the parish are, the handsome granite one, of five arches, erected some years ago near the influx of the Farrar into the Glass; and the Lovat Bridge, built in 1810, across the Beauly. This latter bridge was built at an expense of nearly L. 10,000. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands a few miles from the eastern extremity of the parish, in a very convenient situation for the greater part of the population. The village of Beauly, and the space of four or five miles round about it, comprise nearly two- thirds of the population of the parish, that is a population of about 1800. Of these, upwards of 100 are Roman Catholics, and about 50 Episcopalians. The accommodation aflbrded by the churcli falls far short of what is required, as there are not sittings for one* third of the population. A few years ago, it underwent a thorough repair; and now, as far as it goes, the accommodation is very com- fortable. The attendance on worship is generally good* The popu- lation of the upper district of the parish is chiefly Roman Catholic The Committee of the General Assembly for the management of the Royal Bounty has, for many years, supported a Missionary to this and the neighbouring parish of Kiltarlity. He officiates for three successive Sabbaths at Cannich school, and the fourth at Glenstrathfarrar. The late Chisholm of Chisholm, two years ago, built a very neat church on his own property, which aflbrds accommodation to 300 individuals. Though built in the parish of Kiltarlity, it is acces- sible to the inhabitants of Kilmorack. A fixed stipend of L.70 per annum, with other perquisites, which amount to L.80, is to be granted by the present proprietor ; and it is expected, that, in a very short time, a minister will be ordained to the vacant charge. Worship has been performed in it, since it was opened, by the aid of the neighbouring clergy. In this district, also, two Roman Catholic priests officiate. They have two places of worship, capable of affording accommodation to upwards of 500. The one is situated at Wester Eskadale, on the south side of the Beauly ; the other lies at no great distance from the house of Fasnakvle. The manse is an old building, situated close by the parish church, on a rising eminence, whence a commanding view of the exquisite scenery around it may be obtained. The glebe is very small, and worth only L»5 per annum. The amouoi KiLMoiiACK. :ni of the stipend since its augmentation, in 1815, is, in money L.212, 5s. 6d., 9 bolls of bear, and 24 bolls, 2 firlots, 1 peck, 2^ lippies of meal, which includes L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The number of communicants connected with the parish is 84 ; but, including those from the neighbouring parishes, it amounts to about 300. Collections are occasionally made for the Gene- ral Assembly's missionary schemes; and there is a. contribution made to the Inverness Royal InBrmary once in three years. Education, — The number of schools is three — two parochial, and one supported by the Chisholm ; but the parish has also the benefit of two schools which belong to the neighbouring parish. The salary of e«ich parochial teacher is the minimum, with the legal accommodations. In some of the schools, the amount of school-fees does not exceed L.8 or L.IO, while in the principal they fall little short of Li20. The branches taught are, English and Gaelic read- ing, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, the elements of Algebra and mathematics, Latin and Greek. The immense advantage in respect of education which the Strathglass district of this parish, for the space of twenty-three miles, possesses over many parishes in the Highlands, is entirely owing to the munificent generosity of the family of the Chisholm, — a family which it is impossible to men- tion without gratitude, for the benefits it has conferred on so large a portion of this dark and unenlight^ened district. There is still, however, a great deficiency of school accommodation in the village of Beauly. 4 Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 6) ; but occasionally, assistance is given to many others. The average sum allotted to each of those upon the poor's roll is 6s., 8s., and 10s. per annum. The only funds possessed by the parish are the collections at the church doors. They never amount to more than L.12 Sterling per annum ; occasional donations are granted by the heritors. Few of the inhabitants go out of the parish in search of relief, and these only when compelled by necessity. Fairs, — On the Muir of Ord, is now held the most important cattle fair in the north of Scotland, for the purpose of accommodat- ing dealers from the south, and every part of th^ country. The following have been appointed as the days on which the market holds: \st market, the Miiir of Ord, on third Wednesday of April ; 2d, second Wednesday of May ; 3, and a piece of land given at the church of Petyn equal to the two glebes. They seem to have been always united as one parish since the Reformation. In the minutes of session of date June 80, 1662, the people of Flemington are ordered to attend catechising in the church of Bracholy. A similar intimation is noticed March 18, 1688. But at what time Divine service ceased to be alternately performed in each, we have not been able to ascertain. • Registrum, p. 72. f IWd. 366. 376 INVERNKSS-SIllRE. Name. — The name Bracholy, vulgarly called Braichlich, is obvi- ously derived from the church or district being situated above or behind the wood, (eaglais a bhraighe'ChoUle) ; a wood at one time having grown on the declivity to the moss. The etymology of Pettie is by no means agreed upon. Could we be certain that the name Lunyn or Lunnin in the Chartulary refers to the farm of Lonie, ad- jacent to Castle Stuart, to the east of which is a delta of land, from time immemorial called the Island, or Island Macmartin, (and as i or inn means an island,) — the names Lunyn and Petynmay perhaps have their etymons traced to the meadow, (Celtic, &m), and to the hollow, (Celtic, pit)^ or to the promontory, (Celtic, Pait hil- lock) by the island. The topographical description of Lunnin, given in the charter granted by the bishop, and conGrmed by King William at Inverness, between 1171 and 1 184, corresponds to that of Lonie, to the east of which is the island. By that charter, the hermit, John, obtains exclusive right to the island, ^'qu« est in lacu de Lunnin ab orientali parti." It lends some probability to our supposition, of Lunnin being Lonie in Pettie, that Bishop An- drew in his grant of lands to Walter de Petyn names the lands of Lunnin* after those of Ardtrillen, ( Altirlies), part of the present Culloden property, with which Lonie is conterminous. It mili- tates, however, against our opinion, that Lunnin is spoken of as a church in connection with Croyn (Croy), when Petyn and Bra- choly are spoken of as united churches. It seems scarcely pro- bable that there would be a church at Lonie, if the church of Pet- tie was in its present site, and that, too, connected with Croy ; unless, indeed, we suppose that the lake between Lonie and Petyn was such at one time as to render intercourse between the two places somewhat difficult or impracticable, except by boat. Indeed, until Lord Moray, about sixty years ago, opened the main drain, the whole vale was a morass. At about the same distance as from the old church of Bracholy to Dalcross, there is, as we advance on the hill-side towards Inverness, Chapeltown ; and below it on the sea shore at Altirlie Point, (where there are the traces of a burying- ground), tradition says that a chapel once stood, and that out of its ruins the boiling-house of the first salmon-fishers who came to the Point was built. It would thus appear that there was a succession of churches on the hill side, and others at the shore, every two of which were served as one cure. Extent. — The length of the parish is about 8 miles along the • ChartuVy, p. 23. PETTIE. 377 shore of the Moray Frith ; or from about a mile from Fort George till it comes to within four miles from the town of Inverness. It varies- from 2 to 3 miles in breadth^ and extends about 9 miles on the interior side, connecting the parishes of Nairn and of Inverness. Boundaries and Figure. — The boundaries on the eastern and western extremities were, at one time, two brooks or burns, the courses of which can yet be traced, although the compulsory spirit of modern improvement no longer admits of their <^ wandering at their own sweet will." That which separates Pettie from Invert ness, a little beyond the fourth milestone from that town, is called Ault^an^fhiler^ or fiddlers' burn. It is now no better than a small drain, if it was ever much more, except after a heavy fall of rain or snow. That which separates Pettie from Ardersier on the east, formed at one time the boundaries between the properties of the Earls of Moray and Cawdor, where the villages of Stewarton and Campbelton now rise together. That bum has been, however, beyond the recollection of any one now living, turned to supply a mill, and to empty itself into the sea, on the west, instead of, as originally, on the east side of Stewarton. On the south, the parish is bounded by Croy, and by the Moray Frith on the north* Topoffraphical Appearances. — Though situated in the High-* lands, and the entire population, till recently, speaking the Gaelic language, the parish is the reverse of mountainous. The land rises like a broken wave from the sea, in some places with a bank of considerable steepness and height, then sinks into a vale of moss land, (from which, till reduced to cultivation, the town of Invert ness used to be supplied with rushes) : thence it ascends again to the parish of Croy, and the Moor of Culloden, which extend along the ridge. Towards the sea the soil is of a clayey sand or of a light character. The Braes, as they are called, form- ing the ascent from the moss to Croy, are of a stronger and more fertile quality of soil. Several brooks fall over a bed of rocks into the vale ; and from the advantage of these streams, some of the farmers in the braes and low grounds have thrash- ing-mills which are wrought by water. From this advantage, smuggling was very common, formerly, among the small farmers in the braes ; and when they were removed, one of the first tenants of the enlarged farms, a Mr Collie, established a distillery, which was carried on, for several years, till his death* Even the greatest winding along the shore scarcely deserves the name of bay. It is between Altirlie Point, where a commodious harbour could be INVERNESS. B b 378 INVEKNESS-SHIRK. formed, and the promontory on which the church is built: On this beach, coals and lime are landed, and further east, on the beach of Connage, towards Campbeltown and Fort George, the woods cut down in the eastern district are shipped. As nothing greater than a boulder is found along this sandy shore, vessels could land their cargo at any place, except for the danger of the tides being too low to carry them ofl^ The sea recedes to a great distance at low-water, except at Altirlie Point, where, in conse- quence of the water receding very little, families from Inverness frequently take lodgings during summer and autumn, in the Gshing village, and with the neighbouring farmers, for the purpose of sea- bathing. Meteorology. — The climate of the parish is of the same cha- racter witli that which prevails along the coast of Moray ; and were the soil as rich as the climate is genial, no district in Scot- land would surpass it in fertility. The superior fanners note, oc- casionally, in their books, the character of the weather, especially in seed-time and harvest, but, except by the writer, (whose register, however, is of too recent a date and too irregularly kept to be of any use,) no observations on the temperature by the thermometer, nor estimates of the quantity of rain by the guage, have ever been systematically made in the parish. The following notices of the time of sowing and reaping are taken from the farm-books of John Gollan, Esq. of GoUanfield, and James Strother, Esq. one of our most intelligent and systema- tic farmers. Note of sowing and reaping at Balmachree, west end of Pettie, by Mr Strother:— Sowing began and ended. Reaping began 1832, March 11, AprU 9. August 29. 1833, 13, March 90. September 1. 1834, 13, April 6. August 20. 1835, 25, 17. -_. 19. 1836, 19, 25. September 1. 1837, April 5, 30. August 28. 1838, March 28, May 2.* September 17. At the east end of Pettie, about six miles east of Mr Strother's farm, J. Gollan, Esq. of GoUanfield, has recorded his sowings as follows : — * For the last four years less wheat has been sovrn in November, which presents a greater breadth of barley in spring, and accounfs for the lateness of concluding the spring sowing. The harvest is generally concluded in six weeks. In 1826 it re- quired eight weeks. PETTIB. 379 Sowing began and ended. 1826, March 17, May 12. 1834, 17, April 21. ]8d5, 23, 28. 1886, 22, May 10. lSiY7, April 6, June 6 in the mosH, 1838, 2, May 12. 1839, March 29, April 17. Dr James Tolmie of Campbeltown writes, " The medical to- pography of Pettie presents few of those features which are pro- ductive of insalubrity. A line of morass, extending with occa- sional breaks through nearly the length of the parish, exhibits, from the improved system of agriculture and draining, a continua- tion of fertile fields, rather than a source of marsh miasmata. Indeed, indigenous cases of intermittent fever are very rare. The climate in summer and autumn is dry and bracing ; but in the winter months, the cold and humid south-west wind, to which, from lying in the mouth of a mountain defile, the parish is much exposed, is sharply felt. In common with the parishes around it, it presents a fair proportion of the maladies of our climate, al- though it is not distinguished by the prevalence of any particular disease. Erysipelas and rheumatism may be said to be common. In tracing the etiology of the former, (when it does not appear in an epidemic form,) a morbid predisposition may with more justice be attributable to exposure to cold and wet, and to other causes, than to any insalubrious locality. As a therapeutic agent in this exantheni, the peasantry place implicit confidence in the virtues of the herb Geranium Rohertianumi used internally in the form of decoction, and externally as a stupe. I believe its efficacy to be more traditional than real, and probably entitled to the same praise as another curative process in this disease, often adopted by th^ Highlanders, which is the application of a piece of scarlet cloth to the inflamed skin. This latter is of great an- tiquity, possibly a Pictish relic. Whilst the matrons profess a thorough knowledge of ^ baleful weeds, and precious juiced flow- ers,' they evince anything but discrimination in the use of them. Thus the Glechama hederaceoy an useless herb, is administered in almost every disease * that flesh is heir to.' And, as showing the remote antiquity of the use of some herbs, and their extensive ce- lebrity^ it may be mentioned, that the plantain leaf, PUxntago majovy in Gaelic, slan-lus^ which, upwards of two centuries and a- half ago, was declared by our great English bard to be * excellent for your broken shin,' is here very generally known, and applied to recent wounds and old ulcers. If instances of longevity con- aSO 1NVBRKESS-8HIRB. stituted the comparative salubrity of a place, this ^)arish may be said to possess it. But the want of mortuary registers, &c. ne- cessarily renders this branch of medical statistics imperfect." Hydrography. — There are several excellent and copious springs. There are some at the very top of the highest and sandiest part of the bank of the sea, and others on a level with the sea, and overflowed by it, at every high tide. Below the promontory on which the church stands, there is one with a copious rill, proved to be of the most uniformly cold temperature in the neighbourhood of Inverness. At Tornagrain there is tohar na guly or the boiling fountain, where, on a level flat, there are various inter- mittent spouts, and with every ejection of the water, the purest sand rises and spreads round the orifice from which the water is thrown, till the weight of the sand changes the orifice, and this sand is distributed by the same process anew. At Culernie is tobar na clerick. Between Culblair and Mid Coul, is Bruach-na ftwraiij or Brae of the Well, where the old inhabitants say Loch- andunty empties its waters. Some of the farmers, however, towards the sea shore, are put to inconvenience from deficiency of water^ if there be any continued drought in summer. From a register of observations, &c. kept by Mr Adam, Ex- Rector of the Inverness Academy, we give the temperature of the two first mentioned springs. The spring at the church, Mr Adam found, during the whole years of 1821-22; to be uniformly at 47° Fahrenheit; but Tobar na gul varied in 1821, between 45^"" and 46^% and in 1822, between 45^^ and 45^^ Lakes. — The only lakes or lochs we have to mention are Loch Flemington and Lochandunty ( Lochan-dun-duibh^) the loch of the black hillock. They are both situated on th6 ridge towards Croy, and in the old parish of Bracholy. Geology. — " The ridge which bounds the parish on the south belongs to the old red sandstone formation, and its bed consists either of red or of a bluish-grey micaceous sandstone with little or no conglomerate, and no subordinate layers, except a few thin ones of limestone and a bituminous shale, which is not abundant. No scales or other impressions of extinct fishes or other organic remains have as yet been found, though, on the south side of the ridge, on the estate of Cantray, the sands there have been found to exhibit traces of sauroid reptiles."* It requires little skill in decyphering the monuments of past * G. Anderson^ Es^ Invernen. PETTIE. 381 revolutions on the earth's surface, to be able to trace the appear* ances and formations of the undulating plain, lying between the foot of the ridge and the shore of the Frith, to aqueous causes. Some seem inclined to regard the appearances which this district presents, as indicative that it once formed the estuary, on which the waters which flowed from the Great Glen of Scotland strug- gled with those of the Moray Frith ; and that the undulating sur- face consists of the accumulation of sand and soil then thrown up, and before which the sea has retreated. Others have adopted the theory, that the sea formerly covered a, channel, extending from the Moray Frith to the western coast, along the Great Glen, or the line of the Caledonian Canal ; and that the land which now separates the two seas is an upheaved bed or beach of the sea. Whatever facts other districts may furnish in support of these views, nothing has been brought to light in this parish, so far as we know, which would indicate that the formations in the plain are from marine deposit. Lyell, in his account of the en- croachments of the sea on the land in difierent places round our island, notices, that *^ there have been inroads of the sea at Fort- George, and other places in Morayshire, which have swept away the old town of Findhorn." This supposes the sea to have ad- vanced inwards in the Glen, and not to have retreated. Anterior to such irruption of the sea, the parish must haveTormed the basin of a fresh water lake, and the formations must be the efibct of a fluviatile, not marine deposit. The greatest excavations which have been made in the bwest parts of the vale do not penetrate deeper than, if so deep as, the pre- sent level of the water in the Frith. The lowest stratum is compos- ed of arenaceous clay and marl, rarely capable of being applied to any useful purpose. It is not unlikely that this rests on the sand- stone on which Fort- George is built, almost in the very waters of the Frith. This lower stratum forms the bed of the moss; and on it, where the ground ascends from the moss, we find superim- posed a stratum of very varying thickness, of a very fine white and compact dead sand. On the top of this, and sometimes in its mass towards the top, are very Ihin layers of sand, looking as if coloured with oxide of iron. In some places there is no soil over this sand — not a sufficient growth of grass to conceal it — but a feathering of broom, rising so spontaneously, as to show that, if it were not uprooted for fuel by the poor, the surface would soon bo clothed with it. On much of the land in cultivation, the broom 382 INVERNESS-SHIRE. threatens to dispute the ground, if left under grass three years. In other places a kind of sandy loam, varying from a mere sprink- ling to the depth of many feet, covers the compact sand : and to- wards the east, soil of a less sandy, but more stony character, and less pervious to water, is found. Such stratification gives evidence of an aqueous sediment, very gently and gradually deposited in all but the uppermost stratum. From the height above the present level of the Frith, to which the deposit has been made, the waters of the lake must have flowed a considerable distance before they emptied themselves into the sea, or else the whole basin — from Beauly to Fort- George — has been uniformly upheaved, because the ground at these extremes presents corresponding elevations. But whether at the period when the sea broke in at Fort- George, and gained upon the land along the shores of the Moray Frith at Find- horn, there was a convulsion of nature, by which the lacustrine basin of Pettie was elevated, and the shores at Findhom depres- sed ; or whether the sea only gradually ate away the eastern bar« rier, so as to drain the lake while it made a farther entrance for itself, we have no means of determining. There is evidence, that, on the beach between Campbelton and Fort-George, the sea has encroached upon the land ; for I have heard Dr Tolmie repeatedly say, that he has dug up peat-moss, bearing the evidence of terrestrial flora, nearly two hundred yards within flood-mark. But, except at this place, at Campbelton, where the waves, deflected from Chanonry Point, would soon cut their way, unless obstacles were interposed, into the moss of Pettie, and reduce the bank between that and Castle Stuart to an island, (which it obviously once was), the land is gaining from the sea along the rest of the coast of Pettie. For there are now fields of cultivated land, and stretches of pasture, bearing obvious marks of being reclaimed sea-beach. We wish we could ascertain whe- ther there be any difierence between the soundings lately made, in the Trigonometrical Survey of this coast, and any previous sound- ings,' so as to show the rapidity with which, it is likely, the Frith is adding to the land between Inverness and Fort- George. II. — Civil Histoiiy. The history of the north of Scotland, previous to the twelfth century, with the exception of some few particulars, may be class- ed with that of the ages of fable and romance. By that time we find the name of Petyn noticed in history ; and mention made of a fortalice or castle, which seems to have been erected either as PETTIK. 383 defence in case of invasions by the Danes from the sea, or as a, stronghold, in order to retain possession of the country upon the subjugation of the Moraymen in the reign of Malcolm IV. The ancient territory of Petty and Brachly, comprehending at least the whole modern parish, first occurs in record as part of the possessions of a branch of the great family of De Moravia, who seem to have held these lands as^rmant, or tenants of the Crown^ from the end of the twelfth century ; and, early in the thirteenth, Walter.De Moravia conferred the parsonage tithes of the churches of Petty and Brachly on the cathedral church of Moray, of which they thenceforward formed one of the prebends, the patronage remaining with the family of the granter. In 1226, Bishop Andrew enters into an agreement with Wal- terus de Petyn, relative to the lands of Ardtrillen, Lunyn, Dul- davy, and Croyn, which lands his father, William, it is said, had held, and affirmed that they belonged to him by hereditary right. It is not improbable that Petyn had been possessed by Freskyn himself. In charter 6) of the chartulary of Moray, which establishes pre- bends in Elgin cathedral, this is said to be done as to Pettie and Bracholy, with the consent of Walter de Moravia, then patron* In the preface to the chartulary we have an account of successive possession of these lands by Sir Andrew Murray, and Archibald the Grim, third Earl of Douglas, by his marriage with the heiress of Bothwell and Pettie. It is probable that the lands of Petty and Brachly formed part of the territory contained in the successive erections of the Earl- dom of Moray^ while, at the same time, the neighbouring fami- lies of Mackintosh and Kilravock had acquired some title to va- rious parts of them, under which the former occupied the lands of Hallhill, and the latter those of Flemington and Easter Brach- ly, until the old tenure of Flemington was changed into a feu from the Earls of Moray about the beginning of the seventeenth cen- tury. The greater part of the parish is still the property of the Noble family of Moray. The family manuscript history of the Mackintoshes, in posses- sion of the chief at Moyhall, states, that the Mackintoshes became possessed of Pettie and Bracholy, formerly possessed by the Mo- raymen, who were entirely destroyed in the rebellion. In 1281, the Earl of Ross, having injured the churches of Pe- tyn and Bracholy, came to terms with the church, by assigning the lands of Kattepol and Pitkanny to the Elgin cathedral, as a 384 INVERNESS-SHIRE. propitiation for his own souU the souls of his wife and children, and all his predecessors, and all his successors. (Charter 220.) The people of Pettie were engaged in the battle of Clachna- henry, (see Sir R. Gordon or Brown's History of the Highlands, Vol. L p. 151,) for the Moyhall manuscript states, that the fiery cross was sent by Mackintosh to Pettie, calling out the people to the pursuit of Munro of Fowlis. In 1368, the Moyhall manuscript makes William, the seventh Laird of Mackintosh, to have his residence in Connage, Pettie. From 1314, when the Crown lands in Moray were erected into an earldom by King Robert Bruce, and bestowed on his nephew, Randolph, Pettie seems to have always formed part of the lands belonging to the Comitatus or Earldom of Moray. In 1455, (Shaw, Part II.) the lands of the Earldom were an- nexed to the Crown ; and some time after the Laird of Findlater held the barony of Pettie of the Crown, and afterwards of the Earl of Moray. In 1495, the Moyhall manuscript states, that the Earl of Hunt* ly kept possession of Connage, sixteen years, till King James V. was born ; at which time the feu of Petyn was given by King James IV. to Sir William Ogilvie of Banff, because his wife, called Nannie Pant, an English woman, was the first advertiser of the birth of his son, James V. Sir William, shortly there- after, begged the Castle of Petyn, and dwelt therein till the Clan Chattan, under the conduct of Dougal Mor M^Ghille Challum, besieged and burnt it, and slew a son of Sir William's, and eight- een men, whom they found there. Upon this the said Dougal put himself in possession of Connage, and chased John Ogilvy, possessor thereof, and brother of Sir William, with his wife and children, out of the country, and crushed the same for some five or six years, till himself and his two sons, Farquhar and Duncan Roy, were slain in the castle of Inverness. In a manuscript his- tory of the Roses of Kilravock, in possession of Dr Rose of In- verness, Hugh Rose of Kilravock, who is called a grandchild of the Mackintosh, is said to have aided in this destruction of Hallhill Castle, which is stated to have happened in or about 15 la* The * In the Charter- room of Kilravock is preserved a charge upon a decree of Council against **• Lauchlane M'Kintoshc of Dunachtane; Donle More M*Gilleoallum ; Per- qubsrd hissone ; Robert Stewart of Clavalge, Huchoun Ross of Kilravock ; Henry Dolnce of Contrav ; Walter Ross of Kinstary, and Donald Glasche M'Kintosche,** for the masterful destruction and downcastiug of the ** Houss of Petty, called Hal- hill," pertaining to *• Umqubilc Williame Ogilvy of Stratheme, Kny«., and now to John Ogilvy, his son and are." It narrates minutely the g'oods tpulzied by tho Mac- PETTIE. 385 circumstaDces which led to this violent proceeding on the part of the Mackintoshes are to be found detailed at length in Lesly's and Sir R. Gordon's histories. They record it as occurring in 15*26, and give twenty-four of the Ogilvies as the number killed. There are other discrepancies between the manuscript and the pub- lished histories. In May 1548, the Moyhall manuscript states that William, the fifteenth laird of Mackintosh, got a new liferent tack of Pettie and Brachly, from the Queen Regent. Likewise on May 15, 1546, being Saturday, Mackintosh, in revenge for what had been done by the Clan Ronald, at Abertarf, in July 1544, to the people of Pet- tie, did harry and spoil all the lands of Glengarry, and killed such of the people as made opposition. In 1548, Mackintosh having received Lachlan, the son of John Malcolmson, into favour, gave him possession and tenandry of Connage. In 1548, The Earl of Huntly had the Earldom of Moray be- stowed upon him : and about two years afterwards, in virtue of the powers with which he was entrusted, as Lieutenant-General in the north, he seized and put to death the chief of the Mackintoshes, and declared his lands to be forfeited. It was believed that Lach- lan Mackintosh, a near kinsman of the chief, had falsely accused or betrayed the chief to Huntly. At all events, the fact, that Lach- lan was made, by Huntly, joint sheriff-depute of Inverness, with Munro of Fowlis, and Chamberlain of the lands of Pettie, gave colour to the imputation. Determined not to let the murder of their chief go unrevenged, the clan Chattan entered the Castle of Petyn by stratagem, the last day of September 1551 ; apprehend- ed Lachlan, and slew him. (Moyhall MS.) Greater, commo- klntoshes and their party, and on the whole affords a good idea of the plenishing and modes of life of a Baron of Inverness-shire in the reign of James V. It is dated in 1616, the fourth year of that King's reign. We regret that we can find- room for only one or two extracts from this curious document* It enumerates inter aiia^ ** tua chieris carrit, price of y* pece xl s. — ane lang sadill of estland burd— tua thousand candellb of taldb, price of y* peee ourheid iii d.— -ane barrell of ^npowder price x L. —ane pare guardivianis, price iiii L. — tua hale stand of Domwick small napry — yuI hale stand of napry of Bertane clat^-xxiiii halbertis and axis— xii Jedburgh stavis— xv hand bollis (bows)— x dosane of arrois— xvi pare of splentis (greaves )— iiii jakkis— yiii sellets (helmets)— viii stele bonettis— Ix elnis of lynning clat, price ofy*eln xv! d. *— xxvi kirtillis and gomis for women, price of the piece xii s— viii pare of doubill solit schone, price of the pare ii s.- xii Murray gimalis— v punchionis of allacant, battaidy musoade, and caprik wine, price of y* tun xx L.-»xxxix bollis of mele, prico of y* boll ix 8. — ly bollis of malt, price of ye boll xiii s. and iiii d— ▼ bollis of thresohin quhete, price of ye boll xxviii s.- hekkis, spadis, hewin axis, cultar sokkis, and yr pertinend— sleddis with quhelis, harrois, saddills — ime bandis, snekkis and platis for durris and windois of costlie werk— tua bellesis, with all the grath pertcning to ano smyth— tua abbis with chesabillis, and all grath pertcning to the altar for saying of mess,** &c. &c. 386 INVERNESS-SHIRK. tion might have ensued, says Sir R. Gordon, but for the prudence of the Queen Regent, who recalled the act of forfeiture. The Mackintoshes seem never to have forgiven the Earl of Hunt- ly the murder of their chief. For, besides obeying with reluctance his commands, even when he was clothed with a royal commis- sion, they took every opportunity of wasting his estates. In 1561, Queen Mary conferred the Earldom of Moray on her brother, the Regent. Upon the murder of the bonny Earl of Moray at Donnybristle in 1591, by the Earl of Huntly, the Mackintoshes of Pettie, under the conduct of Angus of the Brazen Face, the intrepid head of the house of Kylachy, who lived at Culerney, (Pettie,) and whose impadenco and prowess still form the subject of a winter's evening tale, — ra- vaged Strathdee and Glenmuic, and slew, with others of local note, the old Baron of Bregley ; Huntly retaliated by wasting and spoil- ing the district of Pettie, and killing many of the Mackintoshes. Huntly had scarcely returned home and disbanded his army, when he was informed that the Mackintosh, 800 strong, had invaded Ach- indown and Cabrach. This outrage led to his making a second expedition into Pettie, in which he left traces of his vengeance, of a more terrible charac* ter than he did in the former. The Kilravock manuscript con6rms these accounts of Huntly's raids given us by Sir R. Gordon. " The Earl of Huntly, Allan M*Dhomhuil Duibh, (Lochiel), Macronald of Glengarry, designing an expedition against Pettie and the clan Chattan, give assurance under their hands to Hugh Rose, that himself, kin, and tenants, should be free from their ar- mies, March 18> 1592-a** Spalding and Sir R. Gordon contain an account of a com- motion of rather an alarming character, which had arisen in 1624, when the Earl of Moray brought north an army of his de- pendents from Doune, Menteith, and Balquidor, and began to dis- possess the Mackintoshes of lands which he had given them in Pettie. • * In the Inverness Courier, there appeared, some months ago, a statement of an- cient rentals. The proprietor of that journal informs me, that it was found by John Macqueen, Esq. among some old law papers. It is entitled ** The Book of the Va- lued Rents of the Sheriffdom of Inverness and Ross, as the same was appointed and rectiBcd by the Commissioners appointed by the Act of Convention of Estates.** Paroehin of Pettie and Breachlie. Jamet Erie of Moray, . . L.6478 5 John Ros of Spellasnaldick, . 300 John Macintosh of Lony, . 212 6 8 Angus Macqueene of Corribrock, . 80 Q. PETTIE. 387 It was on this occasion that Duncan Forbes, Provost of Inverness, the first of the CuUoden family, went to London with a remon- strance to the King against the oppressive proceedings of the Earl of Moray : and it might have been, both on account of the annoy- ance which they received from the Earl of Moray at this period, and as an acknowledgement of what they owed to the friendship of the provost and inhabitants of Inverness, that the Mackintoshes, in 1626, sold their estate of Culloden to Duncan Forbes. In the ge- nealogy of the family of Forbes by M. Lumsden, (reprinted with additions at Inverness in ) 819, by the late Major Duff of Muirtown,) we are informed, that, when this purchase took place, the old ^^ cas- tle was' built up but to the second story, and that this estate was afterwards much enlarged by the purchase of lands contiguous, made from Lord Moray, Lord Lovat, the town of Inverness, Rose of Altirlies, and Rose of Kilravock.* It is a curious fact, that it was never known which half of Altirlies belonged to either proprie- tor; and there is an elder in this parish, Mr David Eraser, late of Breachnish, who recollects that his father, and all the tenants, in paying their rent in kind, used to go with the one-half to Bal- nain, and with the other to Culloden House. Next in importance, in territorial extent, to the property of Culloden, was that of Flemington, at the period when the former Statistical Account was written. In the notice of the seventh laird of Kilravock, in the manuscript to which I have already re- ferred, it is said, *^ this Hucheon was the king's tenant on the lands of Flemington, Easter Brachlie and Hallhill, within the lord- ship of Pettie." A gentleman possessed of intimate knowledge of the antiquities of the province of Moray, writes to me, " there are symptoms of Flemish intercourse, and even of Flemish co- James Cuthbcrtof Aldtirlies, L.846 William Macintosh of Holme, . 142 6 8 William Roa of Kilrack, . . 255 Mr Macqueen coi\jectures the original to have been prepared early in the seven- teenth century. It is probably the Macintoshes mentioned here whom Lord Moray dispossessed. * The first trace we can find of the title to one-half of Altirlies, Breaknish, and fishings, is a charter under the Great Seal, dated 20th January, and sealed 8th Fe- bruary 1688, in favour of George Gumming, merchant-burgess of Inverness, and Robert Ron, name-son of the Provost of the burgh. On the death of James Gum- ming, (son of George) the succession opened to James Hay Gumming, his son, who on 10th September 1723, disponed the lands to Alexander Mackintosh of Termit. In 1723-25, he sold the lands and fishings for 7000 merks to John Forbes of GuUodcn, elder brother of the Lord President. Tlic lands of CuUemies, of which the Earl of Moray is superior, came into the possession of the family of Culloden in 1730 ; and about 1768, the other half of Altirlies, of which the superior is Fraser of Balnain, was purchased by John Forbes of Culloden, great grandfather of the present proprie- tor, Arthur Forbes, Esq. 388 INVEnNESS-SHIRE. Ionization in so many parts of our eastern coast, that it seems reasonable to take the name as it stands, and to suppose it to mark an early settlement of some enterprising or discontented colony from Flanders. Hugh, the seventh laird of Kilravock, had an as- sedation of these lands from King James IV., 6th July 1439, which narrates the previous possession by his family. Many subsequent leases are preserved in the Kilravock charter chest In July 1639, the Earl of Moray, having then acquired the lordship, changed the leasehold into a feu, and the lands of Flemington and part of Bracholy continued to be held in feu of the Moray family, }is far down as I have investigated." The manuscript already quot« ed, records that Flemington was obtained from the Earl of Moray for 3000 merks, since the Earl, being very kindly, gave them a good bargain. Shaw in his history of Moray, Part ii. Family of Kilravock, gives a minute account of the manner in which, by a de- cision of the House of Liords, 1787, Flemington became separated from the Kilravock estate. Since the last Statistical Account was written, Flemington has been sold. Flemington is now divided into two estates. The chief part, now called GollanBeld, has been purchased by the present proprietor, John Gollan, Esq. and the other part, perhaps about a sixth of the whole, by Major Fraser of Fort- George, who has retained the name of Flemington. Lford Cawdor is the only other proprietor in this parish. He possesses a narrow stripe of land descending from the ridge of Crov to the moss. It is called Calder Brachlaich, and from this name must have belonged to the family of Calder. There is no vestige of a record as to either the manner or the time in which it came into the possession of the Calders. The factor writes me, "^* the earliest charter I can find is of February 1662 ; but from it there seems no doubt that it was, long before, that time, in the fa- mily, and is understood to be comprehended in the more general description of the thanage and barony of Calder, now called Caw- dor." The local tradition is, that Calder Brachlaich went as pin money, or to grow lint to one of the Earl of Moray's daughters, who married a laird of Cawdor. This account is, we think, un- founded ; for there is no evidence that the Earl of Moray ever pos- sessed it It is not improbable that it was acquired by the Cald- ers, from Rose of Kilravock, and was at one time considerably larger. In the manuscript history of the seventh laird of Kilra- vock, it is stated that the Bishop (Andrew) and Hugh Rose, dis- puted their boundary ; and a story is told, which would imply that PETTIE. 389 Hugh was, by means of perjury, cheated out of part of his pro- perty by the Bishop. We close our civil history of the parish by noticing that, in the session records of November 1649, v^e have, on the 4th, this entry, <* That day the minbter made intimation to the elders to be prepared again the next day to give their oaths whether ilk ane of them did know of others anent the engagement and insurrection at Inverness. On the 5th, the elders underwritten being present, and being all sworn, deponed they knew nothing, but that they went ip Moray and Inverness, with my Lord of Moray, their maister." They were desired to appear before the Presbytery at Inverness. The Presbytery, we regret to say, has no records earlier than 1702. And we have had no opportunity of consulting those of the towo- council, to ascertain the cause or character of this insurrection, which is probably noticed rn the records of the burgh. In the continuation of Sir R. Gordon's history, among other instances of anarchy which followed the death of Charles I., this year, it is record- ed, that, in February, Sir Thomas Urquhart of Cromarty, Colonel U. Fraser, and others, assaulted and took the town of Inverness, expelled the garrison, razed and demolished the walls and fortifi- cations of the town, pretending that the Parliament had sent pri- vate conmfiissions to apprehend them; whereupon Lieutenant- Ge- neral D. Leslie was directed, with his forces, to apprehend them. The Kilravock manuscript says, ^^ the Mackenzies, Frasers, &c. take arms for the king, surprise and demolish the fortifications about Inverness ; but are defeated and dispersed by Colonel Ker and Major Strahan, at Balvouie. Our session records show, that the Earl of Moray was in the north at the end of the year, his pre- sence being probably required by the commotions which • had arisen ; but what part he took in the local affairs of this neighbour- hood, at that period, we have not been able to ascertain."" Eminent Characters. — The only individual of eminence con- nected with this parish by birth was Dr James Fraser, the liberal benefactor of King's College, Aberdeen. He was the son of Mr Alexander Fraser, minister of this parish from 1633 till 1683. By a note in Kennedy's History of Aberdeen, we learn that he enter- ed as a student in King's College, Aberdeen, about the time of the * The records of the Inverness kirk* session may throw light on this rising. We have -been told, that there are among the papers of Mr Robertson of Inches, letten written by the Earl of Moray, from Castlestewart to the Laird of Inches, llie date has not been told us. They might throw light on the events of this period, or of 1626, if examined. 390 INVERNESS«SHIKE. Restoration, in the Bfteenth year of his age; and, after complet- ing his education, took the degree of A. M. Having gone to England, he was entrusted with the care of several young men of quality, with whom he travelled on the continent. One of his pupils was the eldest son of the Earl of Berkley. He was afterwards appointed by Charles H. preceptor to the Duke of St Albans, and nominated Secretary of Chelsea Hospital. This office he held during the reign of James H., William and Mary, Queen Anne, and George I. He died in 1731, in the eighty-sixth year of his age. About the year 1725, he contributed about L.1400 Sterligg towards repairing the College, and furnishing additional books to the library. Besides making this liberal donation, he founded two bursaries, — one in philosophy, and another in theology, — a short time before his death. He left his library, partly to the presbytery of Inverness, of which his father was a member, and partly to the College, and gave the presentation to the bursaries to the magis- strates of Inverness, with concurrence of the presbytery. By the careful and skilful administration of the Professors of King's Col- lege, Dr Fraser's mortification has so greatly increased, that addi- tional bursaries have been established upon it. Lord President Forbes is more connected with the parish as a proprietor than by residence. He was born at Bunchrew in Kirkhill, which, for more than thirty years, was his favourite residence, and the place where he pursued his studies and wrote his works. It is greatly to be regretted, that no memoir deserv- ing of the name exists of a man to whom Sir James Mackintosh pays this noble testimony in his review of the CuUoden Papers :* *^ There are various lords and lairds who make but a shabby figure in this collection. But our great pride and consolation is in the ever-clear honour and open heart of him to whom they address themselves. For Duncan Forbes no descendant will ever have to blush or feel ashamed ; and the perusal of this book will prove that Scotland, even since she ceased to be a separate kingdom, has had at least one statesman whose principles were as pure as his understanding was enlightened ; and whose concern for his coun- try was not so much as suspected to be quickened by any regard to his own power or emoluments.'' We wish we could mention Sir James Mackintosh himself as a native of the parish. His parents and ancestors,' for many genera- tions, lived at Connage, although the family property was Kylochy, * Edinburgh Reyiew, PETTIE. 391 where his father resided when Sir James was born. The family burying-ground, in which his father was the last who was interred, was withiti the walls in the east end of the old church of Pettie, on the foundations of which the present one has been erected. Besides the eminent names which we have mentioned, we are en- titled to notice also that of James Clark, Esq., who died at Naples about the close of the last century. He had evinced a genius for painting when a youth, and, by the aid of contributions from the lo- cal gentry, and some assistance from relatives, he was enabled to visit and reside for some time in Italy. In token of his attachment to his native country, and of his obligations to those who had befriended him, he bequeathed ^* to the Directors and Governor of the new es- tablished Academy in Inverness a picture of the Holy Family, Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and St John, by Sassoferato, to be placed in the hall of the Academy," where the picture is now to be seen. The records of the Inverness Academy contain the extract from his will, and the correspondence with his brother, Mr Alexander Clark, Liondon. We have reason to believe that these gentlemen belonged to the Clarks of Pettie. We can claim but one native author, a man in humble life, who could neither write nor read. He died about two years ago, at the age of fourscore and upwards. He was a man, although eccentric, of decided piety and genius, and much esteemed by all who knew him. His memorial on earth is a small volume of ^^ Spiritual Songs, by Donald M'Rae." Although this may fall into oblivion, — a fate which good judges say it does not deserve, — there is reason to believe that his record on high will be eternal. Antiquities. — The chief object of antiquity is Castle Stuart, a fine and very entire specimen of the baronial architecture of the country during the period of feudal grandeur. It is remarkable for the extent of its projections, square and round, which spring from a series of corbels, on several angles of the buildings. The date of its erection, inscribed on one of the front windows, is 1625. But Sir R. Gordon, in recording an event which had happened in 16*24, describes the Castle as a house *^ now of late built." In the plantation opposite the school-house is Tom-u-mhoid or Court-hill, and Tom^a^chroich or Gallow-hill. The former is said to have been the favourite abode of fairies : and a story is told of a farmer's wife having been detained amongst them for a whole year, without being sensible of the lapse of time, and afterwards returning home, to the surprise and delight of her friends. It is 4 392 INVERNESS-SHIRE. also said, that, about the commencement of my predecessor's in- cumbency, the fairies endeavoured to steal a new-born infant from its mother, at Lag-chree. Of this nefarious attempt, and of the sensation which it occasioned, there is a history in MS* by a vene- rable person who was parish ^schoolmaster at the time. When Darnaway was building, the joists of Castle Stuart were taken out, nearly to the entire destruction of its beautiful mouldings and friezes ; but they could be put to no use in the new edifice. For several years, the Castle had stood unroofed ; and from neglect, the heavy projections were tearing the walls asunder. Of late years, the eastern wing has been rendered habitable ; the whole building has received a roof sufficient to preserve the walls ; and, by the introduction of long bars of iron, the progress of the rentp in the walls has been stopped, and their existence can now scarcely be detected* The interior of the building is one open space, from the vaults which cover in the lowest story and form the floor of the second, to the roof. The garden of Castle Stuart, about twenty-five years ago, was the favourite resort of the school-boy, who used to repair, from Inverness and other quarters, to it as a paradise in which to spend his holiday. The turrets of the castle could scarcely be seen at that time, surrounded as it was by an old and flourishing orchard. The Castle now stands in naked majesty, in an arable field, only distinguished from other fields, by a hedge of ash-trees, which have weathered some hundred winters. It must be added, that the destruction of the trees was accomplished with- out the knowledge and to the vexation of the Earl of Moray. In 1 796, when the Earl of Moray was made a British peer, he took the title of Lord Stuart of Castle Stuart. There are several of those circles of stones called Druidical circles. Besides those still existing, there were, about thirty years ago, two more on Flemington, the stones of which were taken to build the offices. On the farm of Hillhead, there is a large cairn, in the immediate neighbourhood of which a stone coffin was ex- cavated, many years ago. At Loch Flemington, there are what are supposed to be the traces of a Flemish camp. Some years ago, pis- tols rudely mounted with silver, and marked A. M. P., were found in the mud of the same loch, where they had probably lain since the battle of Culloden. It is also said that a castle at one time stood on an island in this loch, and that in very dry summers its foundations can be discerned. A clay urn, protected in a frame of square stones, was discovered, in clearing the foundation for a PETTIE. 393 liouse, near the loch. On the farm of Balmachree, there was a inoat*hil), where stone-coffins containing urns were discovered* On the farm of Culblair, a shilling of Queen Elizabeth's time, as also a fragment of something like a battle-axe, delicately flow- ered, have been found in the moss. On the old Nairn road, at the boundary line between Petyn and Bracboly, is dach^ ari'tuilj or holed stone, the use of which is unknown; but the water collected in it was imagined to cure wens. The Messrs Anderson of Inverness, in their Guide to the Highlands and Isles, say, " Near the church are two of the largest tumuli, called moat-hills, in this country. The circumference of each at the base is 120 feet, and the height 42. On the south side of the bay, an immense stone, weighing at the least eight tons, which marked the boundaries between the estates of Lord Moray and Culloden, and called c/acA-an-aian, or beach-stone, was, on the night of Saturday, 20th February 1799, carried forward into the sea 260 yards. Some suppose that nothing short of an earthquake could have moved such a mass ; but the more probable opinioti is, that a large sheet of ice, which had collected to the thickness of lb inches round the stone, had been raised by the tide lifting the stone with it, and that their motion forward was aided and in- creased by a tremendous hurricane, which blew from the land." In the Edinburgh Wernerian Transactions for 1817-20, Sir T. Dick Lauder gives a minute account of this *^ travelled stone.'' There are places which, it is said, have derived their names from Fingalean heroes who were buried there. Among these Pipan and Ian Beag nam Fion may be mentioned. We must not omit what seems to be a notice of the latter, apigmy of 14feet, given us by Lesly. " Apud Moravos ineccelesia cujusdampagi Petyn no- mine servantur ossa cujusdam Johannisquam antiphrasticos parvum appellant, qui vix tercentis ab liinc annis vita decessit, quem ossium vasta magnitude quatuordecem pedes longum fuisse docet. In hujus coxendicem nemo est apud nos, qui non manum simul et brachium facile immittere posset." The histories of Robin Hood make his friend Little John to retire like a smitten deer from his gay green wood and companions, in order to rest his weary bones in the dry sands of Petyn. To these we must add ^' Johannes eremites," men- tioned in the fourth charter of the chartulary ; so that there would seem to be some ground for regarding the name of the parish as Fait or Pit-Ian* In the church-yard lies the chief of the Macgillivrays pr Dun- INVERNE88. CC 394 INVERNESS-SHIRE. maglass, who was killed at the battle of Cullodeti. It is said, that after the battle, his body with fifty others was thrown into a pit ; and, that so far did the King's troops carry their animosity, that for six weeks they guarded the field, and would not grant the consolation to his friends of placing the body in the family bury- ing-ground. At the end of that period, it is said, that, by pouring some ankers of whisky into the opened grave, it was found possible to remove the body to the church-yard of Pettie. Since the year 1606, when Lachlan, the third of that name, and sixteenth Laird of Mackintosh, was buried in Pettie, it has been the family burying -ground of the chiefs of clan Chattan. In 1651, Duncan Mackintosh was buried in Dunlichity, it being found impossible to bury him in Pettie, from the number of English troops then in the place. * The remains of four chiefs and two of their ladies are laid in the vault ; the other members of the family are interred within the enclosure. (Moyhall MS.).' It is said that in 1746, when the Highlanders under Prince Charles found themselves at a loss for balls, they meditated a re* surrection of the chiefs and their ladies, with the view of converting the leaden cofiSns into bullets. IIL — Population. Were one to form a judgment merely from the uncommonly crowded aspect of the churchyard, which is almost literally paved with all varieties of ancient tombstones, bearing the curiously wrought emblems of the avocations in which life was spent, and those of mortality blended together ; or from witnessing the fre- quent funerals from neighbouring parishes, he would at once conclude that the parish must have been very populous in former times. This conclusion is supported by the evidence of the re- gister of marriages and baptisms for many years subsequent to 1704. Average of both for seven years, from 1704 inclusive, bap- tisms, 62 ; marriages, 16 ; and we must remember that there was less care in recording births at that period than in the present day. Amount of popuUtion by census of 1 821 , 1 758 1831, . 1826 A considerable decrease in the population would have been mani- fested at the last census, compared with that immediately preceding it, from the extent to which the conversion of clusters ofcrofts and * Kirk-session record has this entry:— -Htb September 1651. No session, for many elders were absent through the report of the approach of the English army. PETTIE. 395 small farms into large ones, was effected about twenty years ago on the Earl of Moray's property, were it not that a compensation was found for the decrease of tenants in the growth of tlie village of Stu- artown, and of hamlets on the property of GoUanfield. A few years ago, about fifty persons of all ages emigrated to Canada. Some fa* milies of fishers have also been obliged to remove from the parish ; some of them have gone to Tarbet (Ross-shire,) and others to Burghhead. The village of Stuartown (on the Earl of Moray's pro* perty,) whieh may be called the suburbs, and forms about a third of Campbeltown in Ardersier, (which is Lord Cawdor's property,) and which is the only village in Pettie, contains about 30 families of fishers, pensioners, and labourers. BirUis. Maks. Females. Total. 1832, 22 17 89 1833, - 21 14 35 1834, 14 14 28 1835, 13 19 32 1836, 23 14 37 1837, 28 6 34 1838, . 22 15 37 Marriages. M. &F. Fern. Males TolaL in parish. only. only. 1 1 3 5 3 6 2 11 3 6 3 12 9 6 4 19 3 1 3 7 6 6 4 16 7 1 3 11 35 27 ^ 81 143 99 242* ATerage of births is nearly d5i ATerago 5 nearly 4 3 II4 Only one heritor can be said to be resident, viz. the proprietor of GoUaqfield. Members of the Earl of Moray's family spend, occasionally, a few days of the partridge-shooting season, in Castle Stuart. Major Fraser of Flemington, having duties to discharge as Acting Governor of Fort George, generally resides in the Fort. Neither of the other two heritors have a residence in the parish. Of insane and fatuous persons there are six, three of each sex : and there are three persons totally blind. Language. — English is the sole language of some of the fami- lies, but chiefly on the Earl of Moray's estate. The greater pro- portion of the farm-servants, and all the old aboriginal tenantry, prefer to speak Gaelic A man now living recollects the time when there was not on all the Culloden estate, one who could tell a tra- veller the road to Inverness, in English. Forty years hence, we ap- prehend it will be nearly as difficult to find many in the parish, who, if questioned in Gaelic, will be able to answer m that lan- guage. * Of these, sU males were UlegtUmate. ^ 396 INVEnNESS-SIIIRE. The customs and habits of the people are more like those of a Lowland than of a Highland population. We may be per- mitted to notice two customs, said to have been common when the former Account was written. At marriages, which were wont to take place in the church, the children of the parish school were in the habit of barricading the door, and of refusing admittance to the party till the bridegroom should either make a present of fourpence to buy a new foot- ball, or earn exemption from the exaction by kicking the old ball over the church. If the bridegroom could not achieve the exploit of kicking the ball, or would not pay the pence, " the cleverest fellow might take off the bride's shoes," and thus degraded he might enter the church. At funerals, also, it was a custom peculiar to this parish to run as fast possible, so that often persons fell when carrying the body to the grave. Hence, in the neighbouring parishes, if rain came on, or if it was wished to quicken the progress of a funeral, it used to be said let us take " the Petie step" to it. This custom was revived a few years ago by some lads, at the funeral of a woman, known as Camronach-na-peasairacKs wife, and who was long dreaded and consulted as a witch. The Pettie step at funerals is now as decorous ^ that of their neighbours; and the school impost at marriages has gone into desuetude. The Bshers are the only class who now come, with a piper at their head, to be married in the church ; and till they muster in less force, it is the only place which can afford sufficient room. — The Highland costume is never worn as com- mon dress. Upon the whole, I would say, that the population are in as com- fortable and apparently contented circumstances as those, of any Highland district As to the tenantry, if the transmission of farms from sire to son for many generations, and the possession of means rather beyond what is requisite for their agricultural enterprise, be ismy evidence of their enjoying, in a reasonable degree, the com- forts and advantages of society, several of the aboriginal tenantry may be said to be contented with their situation. And if the prin- ciple, which has been acted upon by P. B. Ainslie, Esq., the Earl of Moray's. Commissioner, and which, both from its equity, and no- velty at least in the north Highlands, deserves to be noticed, be taken as a criterion, (and by which, instead of setting the farms up to roup, or accepting the highest offer in writing, as most of landlords do, the farm is valued by a competent judge brought from the south at his Lordship's expense, and is let, after a con- PETTIE. 397 siderate estimate and investigation, in some instances, even at less than the tenant has actually offered, and under the valuator's appre- ciation,) — if this be a system of dealing between landlord and tenant, embodyingthe favourite sentiment, " live and let live," — we may in- fer that, upon the whole, the tenants are satisfied with their cir- cumstances. And, since poverty is as often the parent as the off- spring of vicious habits, the character of the people, who are in general orderly and moral, may be taken as presumptive evidence that they are not ground down by the extortion of unreasonable landlords. Smuggling at one time existed, but it has entirely disappeared of late years. As to the religious state of the people, there is no denying that an universal opinion prevails in the Highlands, and it is not entirely confined to laymen, that piety was more flourishing in the days of their fathers than in their own day. If we consult, however, the records of session of this parish, it will be found, that the instances of gross immorality and indecency which crowd and contaminate their earlier pages, become gradually fewer as we approach the present day. Some of these have for years been unknown. . ' From the habits of society in former days, when the Strathdearn feuars used to meet the tenantry of this parish and the factor at Castle Stuart, and spent not days but weeks in uncontrolled revelry, scenes were then witnessed, such, that the very mention of them makes people of ordinary stomachs thankful that they have been born out of season. On the other hand, we must recollect that, if a man was then actuated at all by religious princi- ples, he was obliged to stand more entirely apart from the common intercourse of society, and his religion would shine forth in stronger relief than would the character of the very same man if living now, when a general decency of deportment prevails. Besides, the absence of the variety of books and newspapers now circulated made our forefathers very much, and of necessity, men of one business and one book. Their small adjacent farms made it as convenient to them to meet often as if they dwelt in a village, and gave them neither poverty nor riches, but a competency and leisure. Frequent prayer and fellowship meetings became naturally the fuel and the fruit of piety in such a state of things. Such reli- gious men would be justly and greatly venerated as lights shining in a dark place. Besides, the custom unknown to the Lowlands, by which men of this description, at stated monthly meetings, and on the Friday preceding the dispensatioa ot \Jaa ^.k^^'^ '^scc^^'^n \ 398 INVERNESS-SHIRE. « ^^eve called upon to express their opinion or experience upon some religious question before the congregation, — gave then} an opportu- nity of becoming prominent among their neighbours for any supe- rior knowledge, zeal, or eloquence. If the piety of the decidedly religious among our forefathers was thus more eminently exhibit- ed than that of the present time, the number of such individuals, it must be recollected, was but few ; the passions of the mass were far less restrained than in the present day, when decorum seems as if almost graduating into religion ; and it may safely be question- ed whether, on the whole, the former or the present state of things is to be regarded as the more flourishing, in a religious respect. In addition to non-resident proprietors, the parish labours un- der an almost greater evil — non-resident tenants. No proprietor who has the moral well-being of a community at heart should ever tolerate such a system. Its evils are obviously manifold. We question also whether the modern system of the entire absorption of small farms by large ones, will not ultimately tend to generate a worse moral-conditioned rural population, than if there were left a proportion of small farms, — establishment in which might be with- in the reach of industrious men, who had earned a character and small capital in serving the occupiers of the larger farms. It would be an advantage to the district, if, at some central points, such as where a smithy is found, a few small houses on the cottage system were erected, for a carpenter, gardener, merchant of small articles commonly in demand, tailor, and labourers. The members of all their families would be of service to the farmer at certain seasons of the vear. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Pettie may be described as an entirely agricultural parish, since the whole population, with the exception of the fish- ers, are employed directly in agriculture, or the subservient arts. The Earl of Moray's properties, " the lordship of Petyn," and the barony of Connage, comprise, apart from small crofts, 24 iarms, at the average of about L. 160 of rent The estate of CuUo- den in the parish contains, apart from crofts, 6 farms, at the average rent of L. 104. Gollanfield, now chiefly farmed by its proprietor, contains 7 farms, at the average rent of perhaps L. 60* Flemington contains, besides the Mains, one farm of about L. 50. The Mains may be of the same value. The rental of the parish is, including feus and crofts, fully L. 5000. The extent of the difiereut estates is shown by the following tables : — PETTIE. 399 Arable. UncultivAted Wood. ToUl. includ. moss* Lord Moray, 3800 700 1200 5700 Imp. acres. Lord Cawdor, . . 210 48 79 887 CuUoden, . . 565 378 218 1181 Gollanfield and Flemington, 880 143 77 900* ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^m^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^m^i^^m 5275 1269 1574 8118 The valued rent, and the cess paid by such proprietors as have no other property in this county, except in this parish, are given in the subjoined table : Lord Moray pays L. 28, 178. Id., effeiring to valued rent, L. 2423 10 LordCawcfor, - . . * - - 120 CuUoden, - - - - - - 441 15 GoUanfidd, pays L. 1, 10s. 9d.. ... 130 19 Remington, 68. 2d., 26 3 Total valued rent, - L.3142 7 The assessed taxes paid by the parish last year were L. 62, 19s. 3d.t In 1814, it was L. 221, 7s. By the six-shift rotation, under which the farms have hitherto been managed, there would be under Potatoes and turnips, - 880 acres. Pasture, grass, and bay, - 1760 Wheat, barley, and oaU, - 2640 About - 5280 Raw Produce, — The average gross amount of raw produce may be as under : 880 acres in turnips and potatoes, at L.3, IQs., L.3080 1 760 acres in pasture, grass, and bay, at L.l, 10s. 2640 1940 acres oaU, producing 5820 quarters, at L.1, 4s., 6984 550 acres barley, producing 1925quarter8, at L.l,lQi., 2887 10 150 acres wheat, producing 450 quarters, at L2, Ids., 1 192 10 ■■ _i... - L. 16784 5280 acres straw, of 8195 quarters, at 5s. - - 2048 15 1269 acres unculUvated, at 2s. . - - - 126 18 Wood sold yearly about L.200, or - - - - 150 L.19109 13 The harvest work is generally done by threaving, for barley and oats at 2^. per threave of two stooks, and Sd. for wheat; the sheaves 32 inches in circumference. When shearers are engaged for the harvest, the wages for men are from L.1, Ids. to L4.2, and for women L^l, 48. to L.1, 6s., with victuals; and they are bound to assist in taking up the potatoes. The scythe is occasionally used by some of the farmers, but not to any great extent Com is never let out to be cut by the acre, except when a tenant may * It is not specified whether these be Scots or imperial acres. t In the adjacent parishes there was paid in 1814 by Adersier, L.205 14 2 by Calder & Croy, 322 2 0^ by Daviot, 156 3 3 400 INVEBNESS-8HIRE. ' be leaving his farm, and has not the requbite establishment of ser- vants. In that case, it is generally let at about 9s. per Scotch acre, for cutting and stookihg. The 1200 acres of plantations on Lord Moray's estates may be divided as follows : — About 200 acres of about the age of sixty years ; 250, thirty-two years ; 500, from fifteen to twenty years ; 150 to 200, from one to ten years : including about twenty acres of oak coppice, managed in the most approved manner. The cutting of wood on the estate extends little beyond what is required for thinning, and the supply of timber requisite for local purposes, such as in fences and the erection of farm-build- ings. A vessel landing coals may occasionally obtain a cargo of props or deals. The only instance of sawing by a steam-engine ever seen in this district, took place in the manufacture of part of the woods of Cul- loden into staves, by that enterprising gentleman, J. Inglis Nicol, Esq. M. D., Inverness. So soon as the fir-wood on Lord Moray's estate is sufficiently cleared, oak is planted in its stead. Major Fraser has surrounded Flemington with a flourishing belting of fir, larch, and spruce. The parish is not remarkable for any particular breed of cattle, as attention is only paid to feeding and agriculture. Since few, if any, of the farmers have an outrun of pasture, the system pursued is to purchase at the Moor of Ord and Bogbain trysts, stots for winterers, and sheep to eat off turnips. The dryness of the soil is favourable " to the feeding off" of sheep; but this system is ob* viously regulated by the fertility of the season in the produce of straw and turnip. Some of the tenants occasionally, let the run of their farms and a proportion of their turnips to sheep-farmers for the winter; but no yearly average per head or per acre can well be stated. So seldom are fields let for grazing, or cattle received for this purpose, that it is almost impossible to state any average per head or per acre. The Aberdeen or Buchan black and pol- led breed of cows is preferred to the Ayrshire. Some of the farmers select for winterers the short-horned species, or crosses from that breed. But, in general, the stots are either of the High- land or Buchan breed. No leases under nineteen years are ever offered or taken. The landlords sometimes build all the offices, and, at other times, leave * The wood on Lord Cawdor's property was only in process of planting, and that on the CuUoden property had just been sold when this Account was written. 4 PETTIE. 401 tli6 tenant wholly, or in part, to erect the buildhigs, as may happen to be agreed upon, when the lease is taken. The rule or understanding on the Earl of Moray^s estate is, that the main drains or levels are kept in repair or efficient by the landlord, and the tributary drains by the tenant. There is a feeing-market for servants held at Inverness, about a month before each term. Wages, — The rate of wages for the half-year may be given as follows: — A foreman, from L. 6, 10s. to L. 8; a ploughman, L.4 to L.d ; herd-boy, L.l, 10s. to L.2 ; a female, L.1, 10s. to L.2 ; an able-bodied day-labourer in summer, from Is. Od. to Is. 6d. ; do. in winter, Is. or 2d. per hour; females for common work, 6d. per day. Formerly when the tenants sold their produce of oats almost entirely in meal, and rarely in grain, there were four mills in the parish ; and the district thirled to each was called the siucam of that mill. The only one of these now existing is the mill of Con- nage, at Campbeltown. There was another at Culblair. The third was at Loddack or Tomagrain. The fourth was a salt water mill, which was double, or had two wheels. Its ruins still stand towards the entrance of the bay near the church. Across this bay a dike was erected, and the keeping in repair of so many feet of the dike was assigned to each tenant on the Earl of Moray's es- tate. A considerable supply of water for this mill was obtained from a burn which flows into the bay ; but the object of the dike was not merely to dam up the waters of this burn, but, first to exclude and then to admit the flow-tide at sluices so constructed, as that the mill might be turned both by the flow and the ebb- tide. This mill was given up about flfteen years ago. The follow- ing extract of minute of kirk-session shows that its erection was of an old date : — 17th Sept. 1682, " P. F. and M. English, millers of the salt water mill, charged by the officer for setting it, and grinding on the Lord's day." What is now the bog, was the old pond of the mill, which has been raised nearly to a level with the adjacent ground by the sand carried down by the burn, and the wreck driven in by the sea. Beans are not sown ; and pease and rye only occasionally, and to so small an extent as not to deserve notice. Tares are grown to a small extent. Bear or big is not now, and has not been in the memory of any now living, grown in this parish. Both Che- valier 'and common barley are sown. The Hopetoun and potata oats are sometimes sown ; but the oats commonly sown in the dis- 402 INVERNESS-SHIRE. trict are the late Angus. The Saody oats now threatens to dis- place the Hopetoun and potato oats. The tenants find that the ground will not stand wheat at every rotation* It may be stated here, that, until the introduction of the system of large farms, and the modem system of agriculture, flax was uni- versally cultivated in this parish, for which it was even famed* The cheapness of cotton articles has had the effect of putting an end to the cultivation of flax. Lime has been in use at least since the large farms have been formed, and it may be said that turnips are never put down except with bone dust. At the season when they are sown, it is sup- posed that common manure keeps our light soils too open in the heat which then prevails ; at all events, the bones give the best produce. From 20 to 25 bolls of lime per acre is the rule followed* Second liming of a field does not seem to answer so well as was an- ticipated ; and subsoil ploughing and trenching seem not unlikely to become common on all the farms, before lime is laid on a se- cond time. The majority of the agricultural servants come from the interior Highlands. Native lads seem to prefer acquiring a trade when they have an opportunity. There has existed for upwards of fifty years, the Pettie and Ar- dersier Farmers' Society. Premiums are yearly awarded to those who are adjudged to be the best ploughmen at a public competi- tion. A prize has been added this year, to be given to the lad whose horses appear best groomed, and their harness best kept. The description of horses used in agriculture seems to be a cross between the Highland garron and the finest heavy horses from the south. They are both hardy and active, but not remarkably large. A pair of horses are considered sufficient for every fifty acres of a farm. They are in some request for double harness. Fisheries. — There are two stake-nets on the property of the Earl of Moray, and one on the property of Culloden at Altirlie- Point The erection of the former is of recent date, and it is said they have not as yet been found a very remunerating enterprise. The annual rent of all these salmon fishings is under L. 60* The Messrs Hogarth of Aberdeen rent the entire beach belonging to the Earl of Moray, and Mr R. Mackinnon, Altirlies Point, has for many years possessed the fishing at that station, with other fishings in different places of the Highlands. There are 24 boats belonging to the parish engaged in the PETTIE. 403 herring-fishing. They are the property of four, we may say five, crews, or bands of eight men, who fish in company in one boat for haddocks, but who, in the herring-fishing, as they may happen, in- dividually, or conjointly, to possess a boat, break up, and hire as many as may give a crew of five hands and a boy to each boat. Lads from the West Highlands are engaged for the her- ring-season at the rate of about L.4. They receive in addi- tion, perhaps, a barrel of herrings. When they fish haddocks, eight men form the crew. The fishers look to the herring-season as the great source of their income. Some of them almost despise the haddock-fishing as scarcely worth their pains. They are absent at the herring-fishing at Helmsdale, Wick, or Burghhead, about six weeks from the middle of July.* It may safely be stated, that there is not along the coast of the Moray Frith, on either side, any colony of fishers morb deserving of encouragement, and who receive less, than the fishers of Pettie. They are like thd order to which they belong, very stationary in their knowledge, not a few of the parents being unable to read, and all of them too little disposed to keep their children either long or regularly at school. But they are almost to a man order- ly and irreproachable in their conduct, and of industrious habits. They are ready to enter the service of the farmers for the labours of the harvest, on their return from the herring-fishing; and from their residence in the vicinity, they render it practicable to some of the farmers to relieve themselves of the necessity of bringing shearers from a distance, and of finding them accommodation. While they increase the advantages of the district by the supply offish, they purchase from the farmers what they require of meal, which, with fish, is their chief, we may say their only food. From there being no pier within a given distance of their dwelling, they are not entitled to certain aid, for the repair of their boats, which other fishers near a pier receive from the Fishing Board. A pier, to the erection of which the Fishery Board would contribute so largely, would be an advantage, not only to the fisher, but to the farmer, in the saving of strain to his horses in drawing coals and lime through a soft beach, without being obliged, as at present, to avail himself of moonlight or daylight to suit the state of the tides ; and by facilitating the shipping of grain or wood. * Lesly mentions, that, long beforehis time, herrings were taken at Inverness. *' Mag- na halecum ad ipsius littus captura olim percelebrc." We can believe the fiust sooner than the reason vulgarly assigned, which he gives for their forsaking that coast. We have heard some of the older fishers say, that they have caught fish to the west <\C Altirlies, which they now seek to the east of Fort. George. 404 INVERNESS-SHIRE. On what principle Government aid for the repair of boats is only given to fishers M^itliin a certain distance of a pier, vre know not; but it is obvious, that fishers who have to bring their boats ashore on an open beach, nin the risk of greater injury to their boats than those who have the advantage of a pier. And a per- son ignorant of the reason of such a rule, as the writer confesses himself to be, would suppose that those who have a pier, and incur less tear and wear, should not be the parties to receive any pecu- liar favour or aid. Those who have no pier are at the expense of two pounds more a year in ropes and anchors, by having *^ to hinff at anchor'' so often in deep water before they can bring their boats ashore. If we might judge fronri' the public prints, it would seem to be no great national outlay to extend the Go- vernment aid to all fishers, wheresoever resident : *' It appears that the total sum voted by Parliament during the last ten years amounted to L.144,000, of which there has been paid for building or repairing ports or quays in Scotland, L. 27,666, or an avenige of L.2766 yearly ; for repairing the boats of fishermen in Scotland, L.4435, or an average of L.44d yearly; and for salaries and allowances of the ofiScers, and incidental expenses of the esta- blishment, L. II 6,364, or a yearly average of L. 1 1,636." It is another disadvantage of which the fishers of this coast complain, that, although their business be on the great waters, they are obliged to pay road-money on land. The fishers of Ross-shire are said to be relieved from this impost; and there are perhaps twenty fishers in Ross-shire for every one in Inverness-shire. . The fishers both of Petlie and of Connage were formerly in possession of crofts, by which one or more of a crew supported a horse. They were thus enabled, except iivhen they had a large take of fish, to leave their boats at home, and, independent of the tide, to carry their fish to market, and to return home when they had sold their fish, without loitering till the next tide on the streets of Inverness, by which means they escaped many temptations to tip- pling. For some years they had been deprived of these crofts. But recently a crew has been removed from the estate, and crofts assign- ed to the rest of those in Pettie. If the possession of crofts should, as some think, make them less industrious in their calling as fishers, and enable them to carry to Inverness small takes of fish which they wouldi otherwise, sell in the parish, the moral benefit resulting to the men themselves should reconcile us to their possessing them. It were desirable that some plan or order were adopted, according to which their houses should be built and placed : for their straggling turf PETTI E. 405 huts are hardly in keeping with the agricultural advancement of the district. It would be well, also, if their possession of crofts had been made dependent on their sending their children, female as well as male, to school, till able to read and write ; and that, as a precaution against pauperism, in case of disasters at sea, they should be required to contribute to the Shipwrecked Fishermen and Mariners' Benevolent Society.* Oysters of an inferior description may be fished between Artirlie-^ Point and Avoch. The grandfather of the present proprietor of Culloden had taken some pains to form and foster a bed, by pro- curing oysters from a distance, and placing them at the Point. More recently another hed has been formed. V. — Parochial Economy. Mar ket-- Town, — Inverness is the great market to which the po- pulation bring all their marketable commodities : the tenant, his well fed stot and grain ; the cottar's wife, her fowls, eggs, and dairy produce; and the fisher, his nocturnal capture of cod, skate, whiting, haddock, flounder, sole, or herring. Since steamers have begun to ply regularly between London and Inverness, any un- c/)mmonly fine beast is sent to Smithfield. The coach-road from Aberdeen to Inverness, by which two stage-coaches and the mail daily leave and reach each place, runs through the entire length of the parish, making a bend so as to pass near Fort George through the village of Campbelton. Every obstacle to the forma- tion of a line of road higher up, keeping nearly the track of the old Nairn road, is now removed ; and the making of it has been com- menced. This line will nearly bisect the parish along its entire , extent from east to west, will save about two miles in the distance between Nairn and Inverness, avoid a good deal of hill, and open up a better access towards Cawdor and Croy. At present there is, strange to say, not even a receiving-house for . letters in the parish.. To the advantage of the new line of road, that of a post-ofiice will doubtless be added. The nearest post-offices are at Fort George, (Ardersier,) and Inverness. The only tryst held in the parish is the long established and much frequented Camp- belton market, held .on the confines of Pettie and Ardersier, at Lammas. It is here that farmers from Morayshire and round In- verness engage their shearers ; a good deal of business is done in the sale of lambs, cattle, horses, and small quantities of wool not worth being ofiered at the Inverness wool market. * All that is required to eontcitute a member it a yearly contribution of 2i. 6d. 406 INVBRNESS-SHIRE. Ecclesiastical History. — In the history of the Reformatioo from Popery, or of the struggles between Presbytery and Episcopacy, we find no mention of this parish, or of any names connected with it Indeed, the changes of the national forms of religion seem, to have extended to the North Highlands, with comparatively little excitement in the public mind, and without having led to much personal or domestic suffering. Hence we have no places render- ed interestiiig by a martyr's grave, nullum saxum cum nomine. As to the north, generally, all that Wodrow can say is, ** that the seed sown by Hog, Dickson, Bruce, and M'Killigan, took root in the soil, and that, though there were but few comparatively with the west and south, yet there were more than many imagine dissatisfied with Prelacy/' This assertion derives confirmation from the diary of a religious lady called Lilias Dunbar of Torreich, a manuscript co- py of which is in the possession of Captain Shaw, Culblair, in this parish. By the year 1570, when the celebrated Robert Pont was visiter and the commissioner of Moray in the General Assembly, Shaw states that almost all the parishes in Moray bad Protestant teachers. He gives the names of those in Pettie and Bracholy : Andro Braboner, 1568; James Dunbar, 1579. Of these we know nothing, and of Donald Macqueen, who served from 1618 to 1630, the only notice we find is in this entry in the synod books ; Mr Macqueen ^* regrets that Mr P. Dunbar, (minister of Dores) bis travels are unfruitful in the place where he serves, and that only through want of the language." From 1630 to 1633, there seems to have been no minister. For the synod appointed a ^* Committee , to entreat my Lord of Moray to present some qualified man." From 1633 till 1683^ Alexander Fraser, father of Dr Fraser of Chelsea, was incumbent We have a regbter of births during his whole in- cumbency ; but not of marriages. The session-records begin in 1644 ; but the first few leaves of the volume were destroyed from its not having been bound till recently. ' The following extracts are given as illustrative of the times and of the character of the man.* * " September 29, 1644. This day the minister did inquire of the elders and dea- oont if they knew of anv persons that were sick in their ahmouB, • . • the minister promised to visit them on Monday. The minister desired them to search if there were any Sabbath breakers, and to delate them. *' October 1644. Intimation made that no mills grind on the Sabbath, under paio of censure, penalty, and repentance. ** November 24. All the elders and deacons exhorted upon ane form before the pul- pit after the sermon respecting their duty and diligence in the work of God. «( 16th March 1645. J. M*Dougal is declared iMinished, and declaration made, if any shidl harbour her within the parish they shall pay, &c. •« The penult of May 1647. — — -* being accused for their violating of the PETTIE. 407 • Mr Fraser's long incumbency extended over the most troubled times of Scottish ecclesiastical history. Judging of his character by all that is known of him, we would regard him not as a mere temporizer, but as a man of a gentle and Catholic spirit, anxious to fulfil the ends of his ministry inhis own parish, and who, for the sake of peace, would approve of Leighton's " Modest De- fence of a Moderate Episcopacy." The synod records show that he incurred some censure during the period of Presbyterian ascendency ; but if he was considered by the Presbyterians as de- ficient in zeal in proceeding against Papists, compliers, f.nd malig- nants, he showed equal inaction in the times of Episcopacy, in compelling conformity by attendance at the Lord's table« The Lord's day in drunkenness and biding from church, were sharply reproved, and or- dained to stand at the piUar the next day, . . . under the pain of banishment. « August 1647. rebuked for his disobedience to his father and mother, and exhorted to crave of God mercy and grace to behave iiimself towards the said old persons as dutiful chUdren ought. *< August 20, 1648. That day there was ane fast intimated to be celebrated for these reasons : That God would move the King's heart to peace and unity with his sub- ject*— that it would please God to remove the extraordinary rain which threatened universal famine. That day there was read from the pulpit an act dTthe General Assembly, against the acts of approbation of the unlawful engagement. <( December 14, 1648. lliat day the solemn acknowledgment of the sins of tha land about the breach of the League and Covenant was read and explained out of the pulpit ** December 2d» 1649. That day the minister made premonitions to the parishioners that no days be kept for feasting or abstaining from work. (To abolish Christmas.) ** 1651, July 27. All and every «£ the el&rs and deacons, and heads of families are ordered to search out how many had withdrawn and absented themselves from the Lord's table, that they may be censured as recusants. August 10, 1651. Many said to be of the baser sort and ignorant, from Fleming- ton, were asked, every one apart, what was the cause they did not communicate. Their excuses were found frivolous. They were ordained to do public repentance the next Lord's day for their high contempt. August 17. All recusants stood in public, confessed their contempt and ignorance^ and promised never to do the like again. Feb. 2, 1662. That day the minister did report to the session that there came ane order from Parliament, inhibiting all church meetings till further orders. May 26, 1662. This day the minister did intimate to the people that Wednesday next be set apart for public thanksgiving for the late deliverance, and that all beseech God to bring our King safely to his throne. Prom 2d February till 7th July, every Sunday, the entry is, that day no sessioDy for the cause aforesaid. On the 7th July, it was intimated that there was ane order from the estates, sanc- tiuolng church meetings. May 25, 1661. A thanksgiving for the King's restoration to his three kingdoms is intimated for Wednesday after, and people ordained to meet frequently that day. From 1658, scarcely a week passes the whole year round without catechising. September 16, l^iSO. That day Dougall Macandrew, being found ignorant in the grounds of religion, and being sharply rebuked therefor, he inacted himself conjoint- ly with Donald Maooill, his cousin, that he shall, through the Lord'k strength be well grounded within a month, and that under the failure of ten pounds. February 1665. Mr James Praser, (could this be Dr Praser of Chelsea, the minis- ter's son,) is elected schoolmaster by the session, and 12 bolls of good and sufficient victuals promised to be paid him out of the parish, and lOs. out of every chalder of free rent victuaJ, with all the casualties of baptisms and^marriages, as likewise L. 20 Scotch money for being clerk to sesrion and precentor in the church. 408 INVERNESS-SHIRE. session records bear sufficient evidence that he was not slothful as a parish minister. " No priest supinely droning o*er his charge : But the best portion of the good man's life, His little, common, unrecorded acts Of kindness and of love.** His son seems to have inherited the same liberality of sentiment, for, although resident the greater part of a long life in Eng- land, he left his fortune for the promotion of science and religiqp in the Presbyterian institutions and land of his fathers. Mr Eraser was succeeded bv a Mr A. Denune, said to have been a native of the parish. Shaw says he was ordained privately. From the record of session, we could gather no confirmation of that statement. For 12th November 1682, ^^ Understand that from this day, Mr Alexander Denoon is helper till Whitsunday." In April Mr Fraser dies ; and it is often noticed in the record that certain things could not be done, as there was no actual minister. On 6th April 1684, Mr ^Eneas Macbean of Inverness intimates, that Mr Denoon was to be institute. The minutes of the earlier part of his incumbency lead us to believe that tippling was in his time very prevalent in the parish,* In 1704, a process was commenced before the Presbytery against this incumbent, which ended in his deposition. A great part of the first volume of the Presbytery's records is taken up with the libel and evidence in this case. From some cause or other he was never ejected. In 1710, the Lord Advocate applies to the Presbytery for " a double of the process ;" and it is likely that the civil law lent no aid; for in 171 1, the Presbytery resolve to peti- tion the Lords of Justiciary, then sitting at Inverness, to eject him. In December 1708, the Presbytery appoint the ministers of Inverness to apply to the sheriff to declare the church vacant ; and in March 1709, ^Uhey report that the sheriff refuses to assist iq that affair without a warrant from the Government, in regard that there was a riot in that place formerly, and that the people were ill set." It would seem that the people were on the side of the de- posed Episcopalian minister. In April 1712, Mr James Calder says he did not supply at Pettie, because Mr Denoon'*s wife would * March 1, 1685. If any sold ale or other liquor on the Sabbath day, especially in time of divine serTice* except to sick persons, they should pay 4. 0. 0. penalty, and stand three days in sackcloth, toticM quoti€9. May 31, 1691. Two elders are ordered to go firom alehouse to alehouse next Lord's day, and report diligence. June 28. The minister resolves to call the several wives by name who sold ue after sermon, to prevent miscarriages in time of divine service^ and to fine the absent in 19b. 4d*, t4ftki quoikt. PETTIE* 409. not'give him the key of the kirk. In 1709, the Presbytery are relieved from their perplexity by Mr Denoon's death. Mr Denoon was succeeded by Mr Daniel Mackenzie, who was translated to Inverness in 1727. A Mr J. Duncanson, translated from Ardclach, succeeded Mr Mackenzie, and died in 1737. Mr Lewis Chapman, from Alvie, who died in 1741, was Duncanson's successor. Between the years 1704-39, the school of Pettie, taught by: Mr John Clark, son-in-law of Mr Denoon, rose to high repute as a classical seminary, and sustained its character under sub^quent teachers. The tradition is, that the farmers' sons in the parish understood Latin about as well as Gaelic. From the fame of thei teachers, gentlemen's children from great distances were board-r ed in the parish. It was at this school that James Grant, latQ of Corrymony, author of " The Origin and Descent of the Gael,*^ &c. acquired the rudiments of his education ; and General Fraser, and his brother Archibald, the sons of the Lord Lovat, who wa? beheaded, were among the pupils. On the death of Mr Chapman, Mr ^neas Shaw was translated to "Pettie from Comrie in 1742, and was removed to Forres 1 758. ThQ tradition is, that at the time of the battle of Culloden, by giving certificates of character to the rebels of his neighboin'hood,- and asking no questions for conscience sake, he saved the lives of a great many. It may^ serve to show with what wanton disregard of life the King's army conducted themselves at that time, that, in pas* sing the road, they seized this minister's servant and hung him on a tree, from which he was cut down, before life was extinct, by the minister himself. In 1759, a Mr John Morrison became minister of Pettie. We are ignorant of the place of his birth, and of his parentage. It appears that he was missionary at Amulree in April 1745, where he continued until translated to Pettie. There is to this day a prevalent belief in the North Highlands, that he was endowed with the gift of prophecy, and anecdotes in confirmation of this are related. He went by the name of the bard^ and besides a song in praise of his patron, the Earl of Moray, beginning thus, ** Deoch slainte an laria chluiteach ; Thug smuid dhuinn sa bbaile so," which means, *^ health to the famous Earl who has placed me by this hearth," the two following popular Gaelic songs are said to INVERNESS. D d 410 INVKRNESS-SHIUK. be of tiis composition, and to have been written in praise of the lady whom he baptised, and who became his wife : 1 Mo Dighean dubh, tha boidheach dubh, Mo, &c. 2 Ho mo Mhari laodhach. Ho, &€.• A schoolmaster of the name of Allan was ejected at this period, after a tedious process before the Presbytery. His recriminations against Mr Morrison are of an amusing nature. From the year 1739, the time when Mr Clark had either died, or had ceased to act as session-clerk, till 1749, there are no session* records, nor baptismal registers. In 1765, there is a minute of sesr sion, complaining that previous session-clerks had taken away the records for not being paid their fees, *^ and no wonder then at the blanks to be found here." But from 1749, till the present day, there are regular baptismal and marriage registers. From 1774 till October 1833, Mr William Smith, a native of Rafford, who had acquired Gaelic^ was minister of this parish. In strength of mind, ecclesiastical knowledge, and methodical habits, be had few equals. It is to be regretted that he did not publish, as he at one time intended, an edition of Shaw's History of Mo- * All that is related of bim, indicates that he was a man of great sagacity, much humour, and fervent piety. The manner in which he became the minister of Pettie, jnay be noticed as illustrative of the tiroes. There was a merchant in Invemesa to whom a follower of the I^ovat family in the Aird was deeply in debt. As no attorney, in Inverness would undertake to recover the debt, the merchant employed a writtr in Edinburgh, Mackenzie of Delvin, who was factor to the Earl of Moray and other proprietors m the north. Mr Mackenzie succeeded in forcing payment of the debt. Th^ Prasers consulted bow they might best avenge this audacious interference with the liberty of their clansman. As Mackenzie was in the habit of coming to the north at certain periods of the year, it was resolved to waylay him in Slocmuic on the firtt occasion ; and to put him to death. A Mr Nicolson, minister of Kiltarlity, was pre- sent at dinner when this scheme was concocted, in the house of the chief or some lead* ing clansman. To send a letter to Mackenzie by a bearer, or by post, would at that time scarcely have escaped discovery ; and, if ever discovered, would end in the ruia of Mr N., as a traitor to his friends. The contrivance he fell upon was to write to Mr Morrison, to visit him on urgent business. .Morrison accordingly came to the Aird, was informed by Mr Nicolson of the intentions of the Fraser*s, and was dis- patched to Mackenzie of Delvin, to caution him never to come to the north with* out a strong escort of friends.* On his neit visit to the Highlands, a numerous body of tenantry was requested to met him at Dalwhinnie ; and the Frasers, finding him so protected, did not venture to make their attack. Mackenrie rewarded Mr Mor- xlran for his service by procuring his appointment to the church of Pettie, on the removal of Mr Shaw to Forres, f * We have been informed by a descendant of Mr Morrison's that Mackenzie was related to Mr Morrison. t From the session records of Mr Morrison*s time, we give the following extract : 19th October 1772. It being complained, that, upon the 11th, the tenants and herdsmen of Wester Dalyiel, gathered in a mob, and buckled together in such a tu* multuous manner as caused the cfl\ision of blood before they parted, which is said to be contrary to the rules of Christianitv and decency on the Lord's day. The per- sons that smguUrized themselves in this tumult, as reported, were summoned to ap- pear ; and having attended accordiiiglyi their depositions are recorded. PETTIE. 411 ray, with additions and notes. From access to family documents, and intercourse in early life with many whose oral narrations could furnish materials for interesting local history of the former half of the last century, and from the singular retentiveness of his memory, he was peculiarly qualified for this undertaking. A copy of Shaw's work, full of his marginal notes and corrections, which it is said had been borrowed for the assistance of agents in an important le- gal process, it has been found impossible to recover. The writer of the present account became assistant to Mr Smith in 1832, and his successor in 1834. It was during the lat- ter part of Mr Smith's time, that the change from small to large farms, and the introduction of lowland tenantry, took place. Till this change was effected, it was, only occasionally, necessary to preach in English. English has, for several years, been scarcely less ne- cessary than a Gaelic service, every Sabbath. The church is by no means conveniently situated for the greater part of the people, even of the parish of Pettie. The inhabitants of the parish of Bracholy are nearer to Ardersier, or Croy, or Cawdor, and, at the extreme east, to Nairn, than to their parish church. Hence comparatively few from Bracholy at- tend at alL Nearly the entire parish of Bracholy should be appor- tioned to Ardersier and Croy, as it virtually is quoad sacroy since all the people have ever been in the habit of attending in these churches. ^The church is about seven miles from the extreme eastern point, and not fully two from the western boundary, which is only four from Inverness. It contains 596 sittings. On ordi- nary occasions, a less number would sufiSce, as, both from the inconvenient situation of the church, and the existence of the two languages, the church-going population are only in part, ai^d never at the same time in church. We give the several outlays upon the parochial buildings of this parish, as we find them noticed in the records of Presbytery, from the beginning of the last century to the present day. In 1720, on the manse, L.968, Is. 4d. Scots, and on the same, L. 1026, 2s. Scots in the year 1747. The church was built in 1 767, without any decreet of Presbytery, so that the expense is not mentioned. It could not have been great, for the west gable of the preceding church, part of which continues in the present church, was left standing, and the bare walls and roof with the pulpit were all that the heritors erected. The walls were never plastered nor the roof ceiled, and each farmer on the separate 412 INVEKNESS-SHIRE. properties paid for the pew which he occupied. The fishers erected one gallery and the session another, for which they took rent for a time, and which they ultimately sold. The tradition is, that it was.for this church that the first ship laden with lime came to the beach ; and the point where the lime was landed ob- tained the name it bears. Rue an-aoil. In 1810, the church-yard and the garden were enclosed with a sunk fence, and repairs made on the church and manse, and the offices built, the cost of which amounted to L. 827 Sterling. In 1811, on repairs, L. 100. In J 828, for the school-house, L. 200. We have not found the ex* pense of the preceding school-houses. Between 1836 and 1839, the church, manse, and garden wall were rebuilt, and the offices repaired, which, including plans, &c. cost L. 2022, 12s. A draw* back of L. 113 on glass and timber used in the church was ob* tained. It is due to the heritors to say, that all that was found requisite, they in the most prompt and liberal manner resoWed to provide. The church is a model for a country church ; and the entire accommodations are sufiScient and satisfactory in every re- spect. Some approximation may be made from this statement towards ascertaining how far the free teind in the heritors' hands has been consumed, or a tax on the rental occasioned by the cost of the parochial buildings, for the last century. The glebe of Pettie was enlarged by an excambion, so as to in- clude the equivalent for that of Bracholy. The arable glebe, ex- clusive of the garden, and of the declivity from the churchyard to the marsh, is upwards of twelve acres in extent. About six acres are made to differ from the unreclaimed sand only by the force of cultivation. The stipend is 15 chalders. When the stipend was modified on the 1st July 1829, there appeared a free teind of L.238, 15s. 1 Id., out of which there was allocated 29 bolls, 2 fir« lots, 2| lippies meal, and same of barley. The population, with the exception of two Roman Catholics, and two families belonging to the Secession, are of the Establish- ed Church. The number of communicants in the parish is as fol- lows: — Males, 36; females, 45; in all, 81. The church collections for the last seven years are shown b^ the following table : — Ordinary. Extraordinary. Object of cxtraord. collections. 1«»32, - L.I4 14 9^ - L.3 7 44 . Inverness Infirmary. 1833, . 9 11 11 - 4 5 9 . India Mission. * The collections of this year were raised above the average of that period, in con* sequence of the alarm occasioned by the appearance of the cholera at Inverness bar* ing led the inhabitants of that parish^ on the east, to attend at Pettie. PETTIE. 415 Ordinary. Extraordinary. Object of eztraord. collections. 1834, - L.9 19 10 . L.3 19 7 - Infirmary. 1835, - 13 6 3 . I7 9 - Gollanfield school. 1836, . 13 18 51 - 2 9 10 - Assembly's Schemes. 1837, . 10 9 2 ; ji » « : ,„,^-„y; ^^ 1838, - 15 2 :{llt^ : I'xiT """""" Mortcloth proceeds may average L.3 yearly. Education, — In 1838, the Society in Scotland for Propagating- Christian Knowledge received on their scheme the school of Gol- lanBeld, at the east end of the parish.* The school accommodates a district of Croy, as the Society's school at Culloden (Inverness) is available to the west end of this parish. The parish and other school in Ardersier and Crov are more convenient for some of the parishioners than are the schools within the parish ; and hence^ of the children of this parish, there are, on an average yearly, at the parish school of Pettie about 50 ; Ardersier, 12 ; Croy, 40 ; Society school, Gollanfield, 55 ; Culloden, (Inverness,) 48. In Campbeltown, (Forsyth's,) 15 ; female (reading school,) 6 ;• Long's, 21 ; infant, 3; total, 250. Id the Society's schools, Cul- loden and Gollanfield schools are kept on the Sabbath evening ; and during the summer months, in the church, also, before service, a school is open to all who choose to attend ; but is chiefly designed for those in service, of whom there are many more in the parish unable to read than, for its credit, we should like to state in round numbers. We fear there are not few parents, who are indiffe- rent to the education of their male children, and consider it entirely superfluous for females. The above observation is by no means confined to the fishers of our population. But we hope that such feelings and views are daily losing ground among the people. The want of a school for the instruction of females is much felt.- Were the heritors to give a house and a small contribution for this purpose, they could hardly bestow a greater boon upon the people. It is lamentable to see poor girls under the necessity of expending the earnings of one term, at a period of life when they become almost ashamed to confess their ignorance, in board- ing themselves at Inverness, as long as they can during the next, in order to possess those common qualifications with which others more favourably situated begin service. Were the proprietors resi- dent, the female members of their families would consider such a * Govei nmcnt have allowed L.40 to aid the erection of the school-house here ; but, i^lthough the building is finished, we are not yet ia circumstances to inipkait3blisbed at Inverness, and is available to the surrounding dls* tricts. 416 INVERNESS-SHIRE. fHrtn-house, have long since yielded to the axe, and one fiinn em- bnices what was of old three, four, or eight small farms. The former Account states, " A few of the occupiers of th e larger farms have adopted the modes of cultivation introdu- ced into the more improved parts of the country. But the whole of the ordinary tenantry still retain the same practices that were followed by their predecessors. Barley is sown with manure, and oats without it, so long as the land will produce more than the seed sown in it ; after which it is allowed to rest three years as lea, and then it is broke up to undergo the same treatment From improper management the land does not produce so much grain as it other- wise might." It may now be said that in no district is a superior style of farming to be witnessed. The six-shift rotation has been fol- lowed, but the tenants are already returning to the five. The smallest &rmer endeavours to emulate the most spirited of his neighbours. As soon as any improvement in agriculture has fairly been ascertained in other places, it is found to be adopted by the enterprising tenants of the large farms ; so that the system of hus- bandry is of the most approved description. From the lightness of the soil, it not unfrequently happens that much loss is sustain- ed at the sowing of the turnip crop by strong westerly winds* We have, oftener than once, seen acres of flourishing young tur^ Dip braird, shrivelled and wafted away, both root and leaf, in the course of one hour, by one of these gales occurring after a few scorching days. This very year, a stone dike, about four feet high, saved a field on the Brae side, for an extent of one hundred yards from it From the clouds of dust rising from the recently sown turnip fields, a stranger could scarcely imagine how vegeta- tion makes any progress in so arid a soil, until he observes the great counteraction to the want of humidity in the ground, which is derived from the exceedingly heavy dews, which are the effect of the porousness of the soil. Before the moss was sufiSciently drained, the potatoes used to suffer in the beginning of autumn, on some farms, from a mildew, which advanced along an invaria- ble course, and blighted the potatoes, but without affecting any other crop. This now happens more rarely than in former years. The interruption of trees would furnish, if not an entire, yet a con- siderable preservative from the damage occasioned by this mildew, as well as by the wind. If beltings of trees between the several farms, or even single rows between the fields, were planted, the influence of these in dry summers would more than countervail the LAGOAN. 417 damage which some farmers lay to the account of trees, — while they would exceedingly beautify the aspect of the parish. As respects horticulture, this parish can advance no claims equal to some others, with a less favourable climate. Some of the cottages have a pleasing patch of garden attached to them, and in these we generally find one or more hives of bees, which seem to thrive in this district Each of the large farms has its garden^ and the best farmer is not always the worst gardener. But, except at Fleming- ton, Freetown, and Culblair, no garden engages the entire labour of a gardener. The fine garden of CuUoden House is in Inver- ness parish. Were the parish so wooded as to afibrd protection from the north and east winds, the soil and climate would encou- rage more attention to horticulture, even with the disadvantage of having no resident proprietors to set an example. In conclusion, we cannot but anticipate, that with landlords and tenantry, such as, in the main, the parish can boast of, its agri- cultural management will continue to bear comparison with that of any other parish in similar circumstances ; that, with the remo- val of those economic disadvantages, to which truth required that we should allude, the former, fisher, and pauper will have little to envy, when he contrasts his own condition with that of his com- peers anywhere else. JVriUen autumn 1839. Revised February 1841. PARISH OF LAGGAN. PRESBYTERY OF ABBRTARFF, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. DONALD CAMERON, MINISTER I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries, and Extent. — The name is supposed to be derived from the Gaelic word lag, signifying a small round hollow plain or dimple. Laggain or Laggun is the plural of the word lAig ; Laggan is also the diminutive of the same term. The extent of this parish from north to south, and from east to west, is about 22 English miles in each direction. It is bounded on the north, by Boleskine ; on the east, by Khigussie ; 4)8 INVERNESS-SHIRE. on the west, by Kilmanivaig ; on the south, by parts of the pa- rishes of Fortingal and Blair Athole. Its form is so irregular that a description of it would be unintelligible. Topographical Appearances. — A stranger entering the parish, from the south or east, would be apt to conclude that he is ap- proaching a wild region of barren and heath-covered mountains, unBtted by nature for the habitation of man. The eye sees no- thing, but *^ Hills peep o*er hills, and Alps o*er Alps arise.** I'he aspect of the country appears so dreary and gloomy, that he is ready to imagine he has left behind him every spot in which the wit and industry of man can be exercised to any bene- ficial purpose; and, judging from the prospect before him, he could hardly conceive how fields to any extent could exist in a locality where the mountains are crowded together, and seem to have been thrown on the tops of each other for the want of room. But, arriving at certain places, where a proper view of the coun- try is obtained, this delusion is vanished. Instead of the barren- ness and desolation which he anticipated, he is astonished at find- ing himself introduced, at once and on a sudden, into a beautiful level country, having a much greater resemblance to the fertile fields of the lowlands, than what could be supposed to exist in the bosoms of so many hills. The hills, at the same time, seem as if they had modestly retired, and to have taken up their position at a respectful distance on the back-ground ; and a scene,, as sweet and picturesque as it is unexpected and enchanting, opens to the view. Amongst the first objects that meet the eye, is the Vale of Spey, ex- tending to the west upwards of twenty miles in length, and about two in breadth. In the foreground is Cluny Castle, the residence of Cluuy Macpherson, surrounded with thriving plantations of fir and larch, and other symptoms of improvement. In the back-ground, to the north, stands the Monadliay (gray. mountain), a prodigious ridge that rises on the confines of Lochaber, continuing its eastern course for upwards of eighty miles, until it terminates in the vici- nity of Nairn. This pile rises about 3000 feet above the level of the sea; in some parts, it is thirty miles broad, and divides the Vale of the Spey on the south from the Basin of Lochness on the! north side. The hills of Drummond are seen in the distance to the west. These divide the Vale of Spey from that of Lochlag- gan. To the south of Lochlaggan is the Benalder range, the favourite haunt of the red-deer or mountain stag, before sheep LAGOAN. 419 were introduced to invade its territories. This range is as lofty as the Monadlia, and far more picturesque in appearance. The scenery around and in the vicinity of Lochlaggan, is real- ly splendid. To the traveller, in approaching it, the view is very imposing. The hills to the south of the lake rise in sharp precipitous peaks, one above another, as if they had been torn asunder and thrown into their present position by some violent convulsion of nature. To the spectator, as he moves along, they seem to change their general outline, and also their relative posi- tion, like a moving panorama, every five minutes, and thus present a succession of landscapes always pleasing. Hydrography. — We have thousands of springs among the hills and also in the valleys, but none of them claiming any particular notice. The principal river is the Spey. It rises in a small lake of the same name in the western part of the parish, and follows an easterly course, until it enters the parish of Kingussie, below Loch Uvie. The Pataig is a small stream that runs westward to Lochlaggan. We have several other smaller ones, such as the burns of Markie, of Gorgask, of Cluny, of Meshie, of Breakachy, and the Bronach. The whole of these in dry weather are very low, but a few hours of heavy rain swell them at times into roar- ing and destructive torrents. One occurrence to which we shall advert shews the violence and impetuosity which these mountain streams are, at times, capable of assuming. On the 22d of May 1831, a memorable day in Laggan, a dark cloud was seen sailing slowly from the north across the Monadlia. About three o'clock in the afternoon, it burst over the centre of the parish, discharging in the most terrific manner, a storm of thunder, lightning, and rain. The thunder and lightning were such, that a gentleman who resid- ed eighteen years in Jamaica declared, he never witnessed, even there, such a war of the elements. The rain fell on the hills, in such profusion, as to give them the appearance of being shrouded in tinfoil. Every burn and streamlet within the range of the cloud swelled in an instant, carrying banks, stones, and everything be- fore them. At Sherrobeg, a' small stream almost dry in summer, came down with such violence, that, ** at one fell swoop," it car- ried away a bridge of stone and lime that had stood there, since the days of General Wade. The burn of Bronnoch, which passes within a few yards of the clergyman's house, contains in summer hardly any water : on this occasion, it beat against the walls of the house, and, entering, covered in a moment the ground floor of all 420 INVEUNESS-SHIRE. tlic rooms with water two feet deep, occasioning no small damage- to the furniture. The family were obliged to make a hasty retreat^ and to seek shelter in the neighbourhood, during the night. Lakes. — In this parish, there are several lakes of various sizes. Lochericht is the principal one. It is supposed to be upwards of twenty miles in length, and somewhat less than two miles in breadth. Its north end is near Dalwhinnie ; its southern extremity termi- nates in the braes of Rannoch, and forms one of the reservoirs of the river Tay. This splendid sheet of water runs in a straight line in a southern direction from Dalwhinnie ; and in its course divides the ancient forest of Drimachtor on the east, from that of Benalder ou the west side. About one-third of this lake belongs to, and lies within the territory of the parish of Fortingal, as it leaves the boundaries of this parish before it has run above two- thirds of its course to its southern termination. In the autumn of 1746, the Pretender spent two weeks in a place of concealment near the banks of Lochericht. Here, he had the pleasure of meeting Lochiel and Cluny, and other companions in tribulation, who took shelter in this sequestered place, after their defeat at Culloden. At the side of Lochericht, the Prince enjoyed an asy- lum as inaccessible to the Duke of Cumberland's troops, as the tracks of the Highlanders were to his troops. Here he recruited his strength and spirits ; and it was from this spot, that he set out to embark in the ship that conveyed him to France. Next to Lochericht is Lochlaggan. It is reckoned eight miles long, and about one broad. All the lakes are stored with fish. To Lochlaggan, the best spawning ground perhaps in existence, the salmon has no access. The sum of about L.50 in all probability would remove the only obstacle — a rock in the river Spean, about eight miles from the west etid of the lake. It is reported that the Marquess of Abercorn, who has a shooting lodge on the banks of Lochlaggan, Cluny Macpherson, and other gentlemen, are about to get this obstacle removed. Soil and Climate. — The soil in the lower valleys is alluvial, and is in some places from ten to twelve feet deep. In favourable seasons, it yields splendid crops of oats, bear, potatoes, sown and natural grasses. Towards the end of July, these have a most lux- uriant appearance. But the climate, although generally healthy, is any thing but favourable to agriculture. Frost, snow, and rain during winter and spring, retard the labours of the field ; sowing, LAGGAN. 421 therefore, is unavoidably late; and the grain is late in ripening. Frost in August and September frequently occurs, and destroys, the potatoes and corn crops. This was the case in the last three years, not merely in Laggan, but through the whole of Badenoch. The writer has heard people say that they remembered years, when a chalder of oats would not in the mill yield a boll of meal, from the ravages of frosts and mildews. Geology. — This subject, as far as we know, has never been fully investigated in reference to this parish. The chief rocks be- long to the gneiss formation, of which many interesting varieties are met with. We have an excellent bed of limestone that runs through the centre of the parish. Slate of inferior quality is also found ; but since the Parliamentary road was opened to Fort- Wil- liam, this kind of slate is seldom used, — BallachuUish slate being reckoned far superior to it. Zoology, — Salmon, sometimes in summer, and always in the season of spawning, come up even as far as Loch Spey. There are some 6ne small trouts in the rivulets and burns. But the vo« racious pikes, which are very plentiful in the deep pools of the river Spey, and the no less voracious otter, which is everywhere, are destructive foes to all kind of 6sh. Black-cock, grouse, and partridges, and hares, are plentiful on the moors and low grounds* Ptarmigan are found on the tops of the high hills. We have been sometimes visited with wild swans and geese. Wild ducks are abundant. The summer always brings the swallow and the cuckoo. The mountain-deer and timid roe are found in the se- questered glens. Besides these and some others, we have foxes, polecats, wild cats, weasels, ravens, hawks, owls, and eagles, not- withstanding that, for many years, fox-hunters, gamekeepers, and shepherds, have waged a war of extermination against the whole tribe. Wood. — The natural wood is birch, alder, hazel, willow : the planted, Scotch fir, birch, — with some other hard-wood, of late years, planted around Cluny Castle. II. — Civil History. Land'Owners. — We have four heritors in the parish, namely, James Evan Baillie, Esq. of Kingussie ; Ewen Macpherson, Esq. of Cluny Macpherson ; Major Macpherson of Glentruim ; and John Walker, Esq. of Crawfordtown and Lochtreig. Mr Baillie is the principal heritor. Cluny Macpherson resides in the parish^ 4 22 INVERNESS-SHIRE. and Glentruim is purposing to do the same, having lately built a mansion-house upon his estate. The Duke of Gordon was proprietor, nearly of two-thirds of this parish, till within the last ten years. Cluny bought a part of it, contiguous to his property. Much about the same time, Glen- truim bought another part, for which he paid nearly L.20,000. In the year 1834, Mr Baillie purchased the rest of it. Eminent Characters, — The late Mrs Grant, who was married to the Rev. James Grant, formerly minister of this parish, and was favourably known to the public as the authoress of several popular publications,— was the daughter of Mr Macvicar, an officer in the British army. She was born' in Glasgow in the year 1755, and descended by her mother's side from the Stewarts of Inver- nahyle, in Argyllshire. When an infant, she and her mother followed her father to America, whither he went along with his regiment. When four years of age, her ' mother taught her to read. A sergeant in a Scottish regiment gave her the only lessons in penmanship she ever received. About the year 1768, her father came to Scotland, and was appointed barrack- master at Fort- Augustus ; the office of chaplain to the fort being then 611ed by the Rev. James Grant, a gentleman of accomplished mind and man- ners. In the year 1775, Mr Grant was settled as minister of the parish of Laggan; and in 1779, was united in marriage to Miss Macvicar. Mr Grant died in December 1801, and Mrs Grant left Laggan in 1803, and went to reside in the neighbourhood of Stir- ling. She had twelve children, four of whom, in infancy or early life, predeceased their parents ; eight of them survived their father. The youngest, a writer to the Signet in Edinburgh, survives his mother, who died at Edinburgh on the 7th November 1838, in the 84th year of her age.* * Mrs Grant*8 works are the following :— 1. *^ The Highlanders/* and other poems on yarious subjects. In one volume, published in London in 1803. 2. •*' Letters from the Mountains,*^ being a series of correspondence, addressed by Mrs Grant, when resident nt Fort- Augustus and Laggan, to her friends in the south- ern parts of the kingdom. In three volumes, published in l^oodon in 1806. The friends to whom the letters were chiefly addressed, were Miss Isabella Reid, now Mrs Smith of Jordanhill; Miss Dunbu- of BoAth; Mrs Brown of Glasgow, and others. 3. *' Memoirs of an American Lady," being an account of the author's residence in very early life in North America*, before the American Revolution, containing descriptive sketches of Colonial Society and manners in these primitive times, and par- ticularly of a lady of distinguished birth, and character, and accomplishments, who then resided in the province of Kew York. In two volumes, published in London in 1810. LAOOAN. 423 II may be mentioned as an interesting circumstance, that Mrs Grant was among the last surviving individuals^ who met with the celebrated Dr Samuel Johnson, while upon his memorable Tour in Scotland in 1773. Mrs Grant, then a girl of eighteen, resided at Fort- Augustus, when Dr Johnson spent part of a day in visiting and inspecting the fort She has been heard to describe the strong impression made upon her memory by the ponderous figure, and peculiar costume, of the great moralist and lexicographer.* This lady, who resided twenty-four years in this parish, posses- sed talents of a very high order, sanctified by sincere, fervent, un- obtrusive piety, producing an enlarged benevolence to her fellow- creatures. Parochial Registers. — ITie first entry of baptism in our register is dated 1775; and the first of marriage, five years later. The register has not been always very regularly kept : and the burials have not been recorded. Historical Notices* — There is a tradition that, in ancient times, the Kings of Scotland were often wont to come, upon hunting excur- sions, to the side of Lochlaggan, and that one, if not more, of the Kings Fergus was buried there. The place is still called Ardveirge^ or the Aird (height) of Fergus. About three years ago, the Mar- quess of Abercorn commenced building a shooting-lodge there. A piece of ground was trenched for a garden, in the immediate vicinity of the grave, and a silver coin about the size of a sixpence was found by the trenchers. This coin is of a very ancient date, -^ Henry II. There are two small islands in Lochlaggan, nearly abreast of Ardveirge, which are termed Eilean an Righ (King's Island), and Eilean nan Con (Dog's Island.) It is supposed that, in the last-mentioned place, the dogs were tied or secured afier the chase. When the Rebellion of 1745 broke out, the dilatory function- aries of Government sent Sir John Cope, with about 1400 men, to check the career of the Pretender, and to scatter his daring follow- ers. Sir John accordingly set off upon his expedition, and appeared to be so observant of the punctilios of military etiquette in his move- ments, that if the Highlanders had been led by Montrose or Dundee, 4. ** Essays on the Superstitions of the Highlanders of Scotland," with transla- tions from Gaelic poems. In two yolumes, published in London in 1811. 5. ** Eighteen Hundred and Thirteen,"— a poem descriptive of remarkable public events at home and abroad during that year. One volume, published in London in 1814. * A short Memoir cf Mrs Grant appeared in the Edinburgh Evening Courant, of the 22d November 1838, from which these remarks have been chiefly abridged. 424 INVERNESS-SHIRE* instead of the Prince, they might have been half-way to London be* fore he had crossed Drimachtor. The English general, with his men on their journey northwafd, encamped one night near Dalwhinnie, within this parish. On the same night, the Prince, without any ap- prehension of an unceremonious visit from the Lord Advocate,* was on the north side of Carry-yarrac It is reported, that Sir John was very far from putting conBdence in the prowess of his troops : and at day-break the following morning, he took a very simple method to try the firmness of their nerves. Pointing to a clump of wood about two miles distant, he exclaimed, '^ yonder are the Highlanders." The result evinced that his companions in arms were, by no means, in a fighting humour ; for it is said, that the whole seemed to tremble from head to foot A council of war was then held by the officers. It was there judged that the better part of valour was discretion, and, with the exception of one, they re- solved to let the Prince alone, and to march to Inverness. Much ridicule has been cast upon the hapless general, for this measure. But, most assuredly, had he gone to meet his opponent, the na- ture of the ground is such, that, in all probability, every individual, would have been killed or taken prisoner. Sir John's advanced guard marched as far as Blargybeg, on the south side of the Spev, nearly opposite to the church of Laggan, and then directed their course to Inverness. This was soon made known to the High- landers ; for a deserter from Cope's army fled to the^ Prince, and told him what had happened. It was then suggested that the Prince and his followers should march along the Monadlia, and * For some time after the Rebellion, the government was very vigilant in dis- covering, and vindictive in punishing every symptom of attachment to the exiled fami- ly ; and numberless were the instances of ferocious and brutal vengeance exercised^ often upon very slight grounds, against the faithful but deluded Jacobites. The Jaco- bites, on the other hand, were only exasperated by these proceedings ; and were led to adopt ingenious devices to display their principles, without becoming entangled in the meshes of the law. We hope to be pardoned for relating the following anecdote: Mr Oliphant of Gask was a staunch adherent to the Stuarts ; and regularly every even* ing, drank the healths of King James, Prince Charles, and Duke Henry, after din- ner, whoever happened to be present. One evening the Lord Justice-Clerk happened to be a guest at his table, and as Mr 01ipbant*s principles and practices were not a secret, his Lordship had no small degree of curiosity to see how his worthy host would comport himself, so as to manifest his loyal feelings towards his King dc jure^ without committing treason in such dangerous company, against his sovereign de facto. He was not kept long in suspense upon the subject, fur after dinner, the first health proposed, was the King James, — nodding to his eldest son; next. Prince Charles, nodding lo his second son ; lastly, the Duke Henry, nodding to his third son. Til is ingenious ceremony being gone through with the utmost gravity, to the great amusement of the amiable judge, who found that the laird was a match for the lawyer, his Ix)rdship, addressing his worthy host in agood natured manner, said, ** Well, my friend, you sail as near the wind as any man I ever met with.** LAG CAN. 425 wait Copers arrival at Slochdmuichd^ a narrow pass within twenty- three miles of Inverness. Had this sagacious advice been followed, Sir John and his men would probably have fared even worse than they afterwards did at Prestonpans. Charles and his followers marched) however, through the parish without obstruction. Cluny Macpherson was then Captain in the King's army. His company was then stationed at Ruthven Castle, about ten miles down the Spey ; and the laird happened to be at his own Castle at the time. This being made known to the Prince, it was proposed that a detachment should be sent to seize the Rebel Cluny, as the Prince was pleased to call him. The order was given ; and Lochiel was commissioned to sec it executed. That chieftain, no doubt, thought it a hazardous enterprise to attempt making prisoner of a chief- tain in his own castle, in the midst of his own clan, and preferred to send a detachment consisting of one many who surprised Clun}', and brought him prisoner to the Prince. The Prince was of so forgiving a disposition, that he was graciously pleased to pardon all his past treasojis, on condition of his leaving the service of the Usurper, and joining his own standard. The chief, it is said, acquiesced. Afterwards, however, Cluny accompanied Charles to Edinburgh, was present with his regiment at the battle of Prestonpans, — followed him to England, — had the rear-guard in the skirmish at Clifton or Penrith : and with about 600 Mac- phersons, put two regiments of the Duke of Cumberland's dra- goons to flight. Had he and his gallant followers been present at CuUoden, it is more than probable that the fate of the day would be different from what it was. After Culloden, he was the object of the Duke of Cumberland's special vengeance. But, in spite of all that he and his spies could do, the chief continu- ed to set their vigilance at deflance, and to conceal himself for nine years in Laggan. He had, however, many narrow escapes, in which he evinced much adroitness and presence of mind. On one occasion, when residing at a gentleman's house in this parish, a party of soldiers was seen approaching the house. Escape was impossible ; but, having quickly equipped himself in the habiliments of one of the Gillies in the house, with hands and face half-black- ened for the occasion, and with head and legs quite bare, he went out to meet his pursuers. The officer gave him his horse to keep, while he and his party conducted the search for the obnoxious chief within the house, and rewarded him with half a crown for his pains, after the search was over. Cluny at last escaped to INVERNESS. E 426 INVERNESS-SHIRK. France, where he died. His estate was forfeited ; but it was re- stored along with the other forfeited estates. Antiquities. — ^^ In the middle of the parish, there is a rock which is upwards of 100 yards perpendicular, and very difficult of access ; yet on the very summit, there are considerable remains of * a fortification. The wall is built, outside and inside, with large flags or broad stoties, without mortar. It is upwards of three yards in thickness. The area will measure 500 feet in length, and 250 in breadth." (Former Account) We believe that this rock is at least GOO feet above the level of the adjoining valley. At the east end of Loch Laggan, the ruins of the old church are to be seen. The walls are still standing, but the roof is gone. Some suppose it to have been dedicated to St Kenneth, others to St Killen.* * There is an amusing tradition connected with the building of this church, and which we shall give here, as it may afford some idea of the ignorance, superstition » and the barbarity of the times to which it refers. It is said that this church was built by " Allan nan Creagh,** or Allan of the spoils, a soubriquet given to one of the family of Lochiel. The following anecdote has been gravely told, and gravely believed by the good people of Locbaber and Badenoch, as giving an account of the circumstances that led to the building of this and of six other churches. It is said that Allan was very active, and at first rather successful in levying contributions from his neighbours, and in driving ofif their cattle without ceremony, for his own special use. But the tide of plunder does not always run smooth, any more than that of love. Allan, having met with some disasters in his predatory expeditions, was resolved upon having some communication with the inhabitants of the invisible world, in order to find out the cause. There was a celebrated witch in his neighbourhood, called Gorm Shuil, or blue-eyed. She was such an adept in her profession, that she could trans* form herself and others into hares, and crows, raise hurricanes from any quarter of the compass she pleased, and perform other wonderful exploits, too tedious to men« tion. Under the direction of this and other similar advisers, Allan, to attain the ob<- ject he had in view, took a living cat, and with his servant, went at night to a corn<- kiln, near Torcastle, in Strathlochy. The cat was put living on a spit ; and the ser- vant commenced the process of roasting it befoi'c a slow fire, while Allan stood at the entrance leading to the fire, with a drawn sword, to keep off all intruders. The cat set up doleful lamentations, when a crowd of cats immediately gathered, as it were, to its rescue ; — but they were kept at a respectful distance, by the redoubtable Allan. Every cat as it came exclaimed in Gaelic " Sole an carabh cait sin," that is ^< bad treatment of a cat.** *^ It will not be better just now,*' was Allan's response; and every moment he would address the man at the fire, saying, ** whatever you may hear or see, keep turning the cat.** At last, a black cat with one eye came, and calmly remonstrated with the guardian of the passage, on his cruelty,— and told him that his late reverses were a punishment for his wick^ness, in plundering his neigh- bours; and that, in order to atone for his guilt, and obtain forgiveness for his sln8» lie must build seven churches,— a church for every creagh that he raised. The cat Camdubb (the one- eyed cat,) added, that if Allan would persevere in his present amusement, until the cat with the long banging ears, his brother, (Cluosa leabhra mo bhrathair,) should arrive, he would take such summary vengeance, that Allan would never see his MakeT*8 face in mercy. This lecture having struck terror into Allan*s soul, he released the cat at the fire ; and did not wait the arrival of the dread- f ul Cluasan leabhra, but retired immediately from the scene, and lost no time in com- mencing his church building scheme, according to the directions of his monitor,— he erected, ere he died, the seven churches, which are still pointed out : and it is saUi thit the old church of Laggan was one of the seven. In St Mungo*s Island, at the entrance of loch Leven, near Glenco, in Argyle* shire, there is a burial-place ; and there we find another of Allan nan Creagh*B 3 LAQGAN« 427 Modem Buildittffs.'^These are, Cluny Castle and Glentruim House. There is a very splendid shooting- lodge, built by the Mar- quess 'of Abercorn, on the margin of Loch Laggan, at Ardveirge, on Cluny property. The scale on which this lodge is erectedi may be inferred from the fact, that it is taxed for sixty windows. It is erected on a fine romantic spot Mr Baillie of Kingussie and Glenelg has built another, though not on so large a plan, at .Glen* shirra, on the margin of another lake. 1 1 1. POPULATI ON. At the date of the former Statistical Account, the number of people in this parish was 1512. At the census of 1831, it had decreased to 1196. This decrease may be accounted for by the introduction of sheep, and throwing several small farms into sheep-walks. Many of the inhabitants have emigrated into Ame- rica ; and many more are preparing to go to Australia. In some parts of the parish, where, about eighty years ago, there was a dense population, there are to be found now only a few scattered shepherds' huts. Laiiguage. — The language of the {leople is Gaelic ; but many understand English, which is always spoken by the better sort of people. The English is gradually gaining ground. The people are most anxious to acquire a knowledge of it. Games and Amusements. — There is one amusement, to which we are called on to allude. It is called camac^ or shinty matches. It is conducted as follows : A gentleman announces that he is to give a shinty play, on a certain day, in a certain place. The meaning of this announcement is that a certain quantity of whisky is to be dis-^ tributed, at the place, to the players and spectators. The quantity churches. The following story is reported, and firmly beliered at this day in that part of the country : About the middle of the last century, a man was buried in the island. For several nights after, the dead man disturbed the whole neighbour- hood in Glenco, calling in a most dolorous strain, on a certain individual, to come and to relieve him. Tlie man at last set off for the island, in the dead hour of niffbtf and having arrived at the grave, found the dead man with his head and neck fiurly above the ground : *^ What is your business with me,** says the Glenco man, <' and why are you disturbing the neighbourhood with your untimely lamentations after this fa- shion ?** ^* I have not,*' says the dead man, *^ rest night or day since I lay here, nor shsU I as long as this head is on my body ; I shall give you the reason, in my younger days I swore most solemnly, that I would marry a certain woman, and that I never would forsake her, as long as this head remained on my body. At this time I had a hold of a button, and the moment we parted, I separated the head of the button from the neck, thinking that then all was righL I now find my mistake. You must, therefore, cut off my head^** The other, fetching a stroke, cut off the head close to the surface of the ground ; and then the dead man dragged the rest of the body back to the grave, leaving the head to shift for itself. This story is as firmly bdieved In Glenco this day, by some people, as any truth of holy writ. 428 INVBKNKSS-dHIRE. of whisky provided on these occasions varies, according to the wealth, the liberality, or the vanity of the donors, from four to ten, or perhaps fourteen imperial gallons. Hundreds of people^ old and young, gather together on those occasions, and the scene is closed, in many instances, by drunkenness, fighting, and blood- shed. This practice is most injurious to the morals of the people, and ought certainly to be discontinued by the gentry. Character of the People^ &e. — The people are strong, health j, active, and hardy. They are remarkably shrewd, intelligent, af- fable, and polite. With very few exceptions, they are regular ia attendance on the ordinances of religion. There are some, how- ever, to whom the opposite description would be more applicable : they show a cunning, quarrelsome, and crafty disposition. But, considering the disadvantages under which the people labour— « their temptations — the countenance which they receive in their folly from some of their influential superiors — the negligence, apathy, and want of activity on the part of the conservators of the peace, the wonder is, not that any exceptionable characters are found amongst us, but that they are not more numerous. Under proper encouragement, and especially under a judicious system of police, we are firmly of opinion, that the population of this country would form as regular, as orderly, and as industrious a peasantry as any in the kingdom. The dress of the common people is made, for the most part^ of home-made cloth of various colours. Young gentlemen, and such of the common people as feel disposed to ape their betters, wear the philabeg, with the other paraphernalia of the ^^ garb of old Gaul." IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres in cultivation cannot be as- certained. By capital and industry, much land could be brought into tillage. But it is doubtful whether the returns would repay the outlay ; and good judges consider such land to be more pro- fitably laid out in pasture for sheep. Tenants at will, or with short leases of from five to nine years, have no inducement to improve the soil by draining, trenching, and liming. If we connect with these disadvantages the blasting operations of the frost in harvest, the agriculturist has little encouragement to cultivate the soil ac- cording to any approved system of husbandry. Beta. — Rents are determined by the number of sheep any place is supposed to pasture. It is reckoned that 2s. a-year for a sheep LAGOAN. 429 is full rent, and if the wool does not pay the rent, that the farm is too h\gh set. Cows are pastured at from L. 2 to L. 8 during sum- mer. The rental of the whole parish is about Lb4800 ; valued rent, L.1801 Scots. Wages. — Men-servants receive from L. 4 to L. 6 during the half-year, exclusive of victuals; women from L.I, 15s, to L. 2, ds. The ordinary wages of labourers are Is. per day with, and Is. 6d. without victuals; women receive 6d. Carpenters, Is. 6d.; masons, 2s. per day. Tailors, shoemakers, and smiths charge according to their work. Husbandry and Produce, — The system of farming by a regular rotation of cropping is well understood in this parish, and would be practised by the tenantry, if adequate encouragement was held out to them to do so. But short leases, and sometimes no leases at all, with rack-rents, and harvest frosts, do not afford such an encouragement. The produce is bear, oats, and potatoes. In plentiful years, the growers can get but little for these commodi- ties, on account of their distance from a regular market ; and in scarce years, when prices are high, and a market could be got at home, they have then unfortunately little or nothing to sell. We are of opinion, that, during the last two years, more than 2000 bolls of oatmeal have been imported to this parish from Strathspey, Athole, and Fort- William. Live-Stock. — The common breed of sheep in this parish is the black-faced. This kind is supposed to be more hardy, and to stand the winter better, than a Cheviot stock. The number of sheep that pasture on our hills, we should suppose to exceed 40,000. The rearing of sheep yields a somewhat sure return, at a comparatively small expense. At the same time, sheep*farmers are liable to heavy losses, in stormy winters and unfavourable springs. Black-* cattle are also reared. The system followed with respect to them is to sell the stots to south country drovers, when six-quarters old, and to keep the queys. None is fed for the butcher, except for home consumption ; and such are fed for the most part on sum- mer grass. The small quantity of turnip grown is given to the cows that are giving winter milk. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — The nearest market-town is King- ussie, distant ten miles ; Fort- William is distant forty to the west ; Inverness, fifty-five to the north-east. We have had a daily post for the last three years. There is a regular intercourse with these 430 INVERNESS-SHIRE. places, and also with Pertb, by carriers ; and the Highland mail passes twice a-day north and south, through a corner of the parish. Roads. — Till within the last twenty years, the roads in this pa« rish were very bad indeed. About that time, the Parliamentary road from Fort- William, till it meets the Highland road at the Bridge of Spey, near Kingussie, was made under the direction of the late Mr Thomas Telford. This road has been of very great advantage not merely to this parish, but to the whole of Badenoch. There is a handsome wooden bridge over the Spey, at the church of Laggan. There is another stone bridge on the line of the mi- litary road at Garvamore, one at the burn of Cluny, and two over the Mathie. There are few inclosures in the parish. This is felt to be a very great want* Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated in the centre of the population. It is seven miles east from the old church, and about the same distance from the eastern extremity of the parish. It was built in 1785, and is now very much out of repair. Mr Baillie IS willing to build a new one, and it is probable that the other he- ritors will consent to this. The church may hold about 600 sitters. All the seats are free. The glebe, at one time, was contiguous to the old church. It was exchanged, about forty-six years ago, for a piece of ground adjoining the new church. The terms on which the presbytery were to consent to the excambion, are recorded in the presbytery books. But the actual deed of excambion was not recorded, — if, indeed, such a deed was ever executed. The pre- sent glebe contains about 24 acres of very inferior, hard, miserable soil. In consequence of a privilege of pasture in the adjoining hills, it sets for L.18 a year of rent The clergyman has no manse, but receives L.50 a year in lieu of one, and lives on a small farm in the vicinity of the church. The stipend is the minimum, of which L.7d» 2s. 7d. are paid by Government, with L.11 for communion elements. The number of male heads of families in communion with the church is 36. The number of communicants is about 120. There is a Roman Catholic chapel in the parish. The number belong- ing to this class, may be about 200. With the exception of these and of a few others who belong to no sect, the whole inhabitants attend the parish church, very regularly, except in bad weather. Poor. — The number upon the poor's roll is about 50. Our yearly collections fluctuate from L.12 to L.26. The whole col- lections, along with fines on ecclesiastical delinquents, and on poachersf who are sometimes caught in their misdeeds^ after pay- LAG6AN. 431 ing necessary expenses, are divided among the poor, in various pro- portions, according to their necessities. There is, besides, a sum of L.51 of mortified money, the interest of which is divided among certain persons mentioned in the will of the donor. Caiechist-^The minister catechises the people once a year. Diets of catechising are well attended. For some years previous to 1832, there was a catechist employed between this parish and the neighbouring parish of Kingussie. The half of his salary was paid by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, the other half by the ministers. Education. — At present, the only school we haVe is the parochial, which is attended, throughout the year, by from 100 to 150 scho- lars on an average. The parents are very anxious to procure the means of education to their children. But a great proportion are so poor that they cannot afford to keep them long at school ; and even during their attendance, three and sometimes four read from one book, — the parents not being able to supply a sufficient num- ber. There is another district in the parish very much in need of a teacher. It is on Mr Baillie's property ; and we have sanguine hopes that he will afford the necessary accommodations. In that event, we trust that we shall not appeal in vain to the Committee of the General Assembly for an endowment. The schoolmaster receives the maximum salary, and teaches gratis such poor children as the minister recommends. The school fees, in general, are not well paid. The school-house is in tole- rably good repair ; but the dwelling-house is in a very uncomfort- able state. This, however, is very much the schoolmaster's own fault, in not applying to have it repaired ; for the heritors are not backward in doing what is just and proper in matters of this kind. Irms and Whisky Shop^ — We have a superabundance of these in the parish ; and their influence on the morals of the people is most injurious. Fuel — The fuel generally used is peats. In some parts of the parish, peat mosses are becoming rather scarce, in others they are abundant Some people drive coals from Fort- William, a dis- tance of forty miles, and find them in the end cheaper than peats> which they procure at a mile's distance. There is such a quantity of wood and roots of trees in the peat mosses, that, to procure fuel from among them, is a work of great labour and expense. February 1839. PARISH OF CROMDALE. PRESBYTERY OF ABERNETHY| SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. JAMES GRANT, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of the parish is evidently derived from two Gaelic words, crom, signifying curved or crooked ; and daily signifying a plain or meadow. Close by the place where the church and manse are situated, the river Spey forms nearly a semicircle ; and hence Cromdale, or the crooked dale. The pa- rishes of Inverallan and Advie are united to Cromdale ; but at what time the union took place is not ascertainable. Ewlenty 4'c. — The united parish, which, in its shape, is extreme- ly irregular, extends to about 18 miles in length on the north side of the Spey, and about 9 on the other. Its greatest breadth is 10 miles. It is situated in the counties of Inverness and Moray, but the greater part lies in the former 'county. It is bounded on the east, by the parishes of Inveravon and Knockando ; on the west, by Abernethy and Duthill ; on the south, by Kirkmichael ; and on the north, by parts of the parishes of Edinkillie, and Ardclach. Topographical Appearances. — There is' a complete "mountain- chain of very considerable height, and covered with heath, on the southern part of the parish, which divides it from Kirkmichael, called '* Cromdale hill." This chain extends in an eastern and west* em direction, a distance of seven or eight^iles. The north side of the river forms rather a contrast to that already described. Its sloping hills, for several miles along the course of the river, are clothed with deep forests of pine, larch, oak, &c. It may here be mentioned, that, within the last sixteen years, 1500 acres have been planted on the south side of the river, towards the lower extremity of the parish ; and it is intended, by the noble and spirited pro- prietor, to follow out the same system, — to plant every acre on which timber will grow, and which cannot be added to the culti- vated part of the parish with a profitable application of capital. Soil. — The soil of the parish, in general, is good, and yields rich CROMDALG. 433 crops ; but early frosts, frequently occur in the months of August and September, and in one night blasts all the crops in several parts of the parish. Climate. — The climate is allowed to be extremely healthy, but, owing to the great elevation of the parish above the level of the sea, probably 600 feet, rather cold and changeable. Winter leaves us reluctantly, continuing during the ^'greater part of spring,' and it often arrives so early as the end of October. The most fre- quent winds are the west and north-east. Geology. — Limestone (Primitive) of the best quality is found in great abundance in some parts of the parish. Large quantities of it are prepared by the tenants for sale, and also for their own use in agriculture and building. There is scarcely a tenant in the parish, occupying a L. 5 farm, who has not his lime-kHn. There is also great abundance of granite, presumed, by well qualified judges, to be equal, both in appearance and durability, to the famous Aber- deen granite. Associated with the granites are various other rocks of the primitive class of geologists. Zoology. — The only wild animals now found in the parish are» the fox, badger, polecat, and weasel. Roe, partridges, black and red grouse, with brown and white hares, still abound. Ptarmigan also, it is said, have been shot on the highest parts of Cromdale hill. Hydrography. — There are no springs in the parish worthy of notice. There are several small lakes, but the most famous is that of Lochindorb, which, with its castle, shall be afterwards noticed. The Spey is the only river of note passing through the parish. Notwithstanding all the precautions used in securing the fish at the mouth of the river, the salmon contrive to pass, and force their way this length, and even to the source of the stream, afibrding the angler many an hour's pleasant amusement. There are seve- ral pools in the parish inferior to none, for angling, in the whole course of the river. Plantations. — There is not now a parish in Scotland, it is be- lieved, which contains an equal extent of plantations. Upwards of 2500 acres have been planted within the last twenty-six years, and there is a fully larger extent of old plantations, A vast num- ber of the old trees, larch and common fir, have grown to a very large size. Several trees measure 80 inches diameter at the root, and 8 inches at 70 feet in height. Many of the old trees from these plantations, especially from the close neighbourhood of 434 INVERNESS-SUIUC. Castle Grant, have been taken to Garmouth for ship masts. They are of great value ; no less than L. 7 were offered the other day for a larch tree just as it stood in the forest There is also a very considerable extent jof natural wood, oak, birch, alder, &c It may here be mentioned, that in the church-yard of Cromdale, there is a venerable beech tree of great antiquity ; its branches are of such enormous extent, that it is capable of overshadowing up- wards of 1000 people. II. — Civil History. Historical Events, — This parish was the scene of many sangui- nary feudal conflicts ; but the battle which took place on the *^ Haughs of Cromdale," on the 1st of May 1690, was the most memorable. The cause of James IL having become desperate by the death of John Graham, of Claverhouse, Viscount Dundee, at Killiecrankie, in 1689, he made a bold effort to renew the war in the Highlands. General Buchan was dispatched with 150O men, of different clans, to lay wsiste the low country. On their march through Strathspey, they plundered as they went along, and committed many serious depredations in the lower parts of the country. By this time. Sir Thomas Livingstone, who had been stationed at Inverness with a large Jorce of cavalry and infantry, resolved to check them. Buchan and his force, hearing of his determination and approach, returned to the Highlands. On the 1st of May 1690, by break of day, Livingstone arrived with his troops at Derraid, near Castle Grant; and, in order that their movements might not be known, they were directed down the vaU ley of Auchinarrow, a very sequestered spot, and to cross the Spey below Dellachapple. General Buchan and his army had come to Cromdale on the SOth of April, and, considering it prudent to keep near the hills, encamped that night at Lethendy, a iarm at the foot of the hill of Cromdale. They had some advanced guards or sentries placed near the church of Cromdale, close by the river; and these, observing Livingstone's troops fording the Spey, immediately alarmed the camp ; but the King*s troops attacked them, before they were even able to dress themselves, much less to form, or prepare for action. They fought gallantly notwithstanding ; but were at length compelled to take to flight. According to some accounts, there were above one hundred killed, and sixty made prisoners. Others have it that the Highlanders had four hundred killed and taken prisoners; and state Living- stone's loss at about one hundred killed, and several prisoners. CROMOALE. 435 Eminent Men — Family of Grant. — The names and biography of the family of Grant of Grant are honourably interwoven in the his- tory of the British empire. Historians do not exactly agree about the origin of the Grants, the precise time of their settlement in Scotland, or whether they were of the aborigines of the country. It is, how- ever, most fully ascertained, from the best authenticated sources, that they were a very powerful family, and made a considerable figure in Scotland upwards of 600 years ago. The first of this family found on record is Gregorius, or Gregory de Grant, she- rilT principal of Inverness, Ross, Sutherland, and Caithness-shires, in the reign of King Alexander II., who succeeded to the crown of Scotland in the year 1214, and died in 1249. At this time Gregory was also proprietor of the lands of Stratherrictk. Sir John Grant, great-grandson of Gregory, was the first of his family, it is believed, who got possession of part of the lands of Strathspey, by a royal gift from King David II., about the year 1346. This gentleman frequently distinguished himself, both in the field, and as a diplomatist He commanded a battalion of his clan and followers, in the right wing of the army, at the battle of Hallidon hill. In the year 1359, he and two other distinguish- ed individuals were appointed ambassadors to the court of France, to renew the ancient league between Scotland and that kingdom, and to transact other state affairs. This embassy they discharg- ed with much credit and abihty. Sir John, after this period, was frequently sent to the court of England, to negotiate state affairs. The necessary brevity of this Account precludes the possibility of taking notice of many individuals of the family of Grant, who greatly signalized themselves in the two opposite professions of the gown and the sword ; and, therefore, we shall only mention one more, Alexander Grant of Grant, who, doubtless, was one of the most distinguished men of his day in Scotland. He rose to the rank of Brigadier- General; and, during the war in the] reign of Queen Anne, he served with great applause, and performed many brilliant exploits. Brigadier Grant was the inseparable compa- nion and bosom friend of that great] man, John, Duke of Argyle. He was one of the commissioners who settled the articles of union between England and Scotland, and a member of the first five Bri- tish Parliaments ; and withal, according to the testimony of an im- partial historian, equally qualified for the camp and court, and alike uncorrupted and faithful in both. Brigadier Grant died at Edin- 436 INVEBNESS-SHIRE. burgh in 1719, and was interred in the Abbey church of Holy rood House. Mr Colquhoun Grant, of the Buniside family, in this parish, and uncle to Captain Gregory Grant, R. N., now at Burnside, when a young man, greatly signaHzed himself in the army of Prince Charles Edward Stuart He was present at the battle of Prestonpans, where he evinced great bravery. He, in particular, displayed the utmost boldness and courage in chasing a band of dragoons, from the field of battle, up to the very gates of Eklin- burgh Castle ; and showed great dexterity subsequently in making his escape from the town. Colquhoun Grant was the intimate friend and companion of the celebrated John Roy Stuart, and fre- quently shared the same fate with him in the dangers of the field. On the downfal of the Stuart cause, they were alike compelled to seek concealment ; and, with blasted hopes, spent many a weari- some day and night, amongst the bills of Cromdale. Mr Grant afterwards settled in Edinburgh as a Writer to the Signet, and realized a very handsome fortune. He died in the year 1790. The late Sir William Grant, Master of the Rolls, if not a na« tive of this parish, came to reside in it, while very young. His father, James Grant, was tenant of the farm of Delchroy, on the north side of the Spey, directly opposite the Old Kirk of Advie. There are several second and third cousins, and one first cousin of Sir William's still in the parish.* It is well known that Sir William Grant distinguished himself in the House of Commons as an able debater and coadjutor of Pitt After filling several high appointments connected with the law department, he was made Master of the Rolls in 1801, the functions of which office he continued to discharge for a period of sixteen years with great credit to himself and advantage to the public. Mr Charles Butler, in his Reminiscences, speaks of him in the following terms : ** The most perfect model of judicial eloquence which has come under the observation of the reminiscent, is that of Sir William Grant In hearing him, it was impossible not to think of the character given of Menelaus by Homer, or rather by Pope, that < he spoke no more than just the thing he ought"' Sir William retired from public life in 1817, and died on the 25th of May 1832. It must be added under this head, that Sir James M^Grigor, Bart, who has, for a period of twenty-six or twenty-seven years^ 80 ably presided over the medical department of the army, is a * He was descended of Uie Craigchrochkan Grants. CROMDAI.E. 437 native of this parish. Sir James has given many proofs decisive of his ardent attachment to his native parish, and of the lively in* terest he takes in the welfare of its inhabitants. This amiable and distincfuished man is well known as the author of some valuable medical works. His services, at the head of his department, du- ring the whole of the Peninsular war, were allowed to be uf the greatest importance, and frequently mentioned in the Duke of Wellington's Dispatches in the most laudatory terms. According to the parochial register. Sir James M^Grigor was born on the 9th of April 1771, so that the worthy Baronet has just completed his seventieth year. Land-Owners, — The Right Honourable the Earl of Seafield is sole proprietor of the parish. It was before-mentioned that the Grants got possession of part of the lands of Strathspey, by a royal gift, about 500 years ago. Parochial Registers. — There are three volumes of parish re- gisters, the oldest commencing in 1726; but all have been im- perfectly kept, till about 1780. Antiquities, — The old Castle of Muckerach, in the north-west part of the parish, is rather a picturesque ruin, and beautifully situated ; but il is now much dilapidated ; the roof has entirely fallen away. Muckerach was the l^rst possession of the Grants of Rothiemurchus. The castle was built by Patrick Gfant, se- cond son of John Grant of Freuchy, and fourteenth laird of Grant, and Margaret Stewart, daughter of the Earl of Athol, his spouse, in 1598. To this sou the Laird of Grant gave a feu-charter on the lands of Muckerach ; but on his subsequently acquiring the lands of Rothiemurchus, he gave them to his son, and redeemed Muckerach. The celebrated Castle or Fort of Lochindorb is the only other antiquity of note in the parish. The castle is built on an island in a large lake of that name, distant about seven or eight miles north of Castle Grant The island is fully more than a Scotch acre in extent,, and every part of it is occupied by the cas- tellated wall, in many places 20 feet high, and supposed to have been much higher. According to Mr Shaw, in his History of the Province of Moray, when the Earl of March defeated and killed the Earl of Athol at Kilblair in 1335, and raised the siege of Kildrummie Castle, the Earl of Athol's Lady fled to the Castle of Lochindorb. Sir Alexander Gordon laid siege to it ; but next year, he was obliged to raise the siege. The castle and adjacent 438 INVERNESS-SHIRB. / grounds belong to the Earl of Seafield. On the south side of the lake, a neat and commodious shooting lodge is built, sur- rounded with thriving belts of plantations, which afford much shelter, and are at the same time highly ornamental. Mansion-Houses^ — Castle Grant, one of the seats of the family of Grant, is the only building in the parish entitled to particular notice. The house is a very ancient and magnificent building, beautifully situated on the north side of the Spey, and about the distance of two miles from that river. It is environed with ex- tensive forests of aged trees of amazing stature and variety. The house is a high quadrangular pile of several storeys, with lower wings added to the length of the opposite sides. Within the last few years, the castle has undergone very extensive repairs and im- provements. The view from the house is truly magnificent. In the distance, the Grampians are seen towering in majestic grandeur, and their bases clothed with forests of dark waving pines. The internal arrangements of the house are in excellent keeping with its venerable and commanding exterior. The apartments are large, well finished, and superbly furnished. The dining room, which is 47 by 27 feet, and of a proportionable height, is a most magnificent hall, altogether worthy of the chieftain of a powerful clan. There are many valuable paintings in the house by Van- dyke, Guide, Rubens, Poussin, &c. ; but the Death of Patrocles, by Hsimilton, is reckoned the best in the collection. In the front hall, there are from 30 to 40 portraits of gentlemen of the name of Grant, said to be excellent likenesses. In the castle there is also a very extensive armoury, where there are to be seen specimens of the most rare and ancient armour. " Every thing within and without," says Robertson in his View of Agriculture in the County of Inverness, ^^ denotes the habitation of a chieftain, and brings to remembrance those days in which the head of every tribe was surrounded by his own clan. His castle was their fortress ; his approbation was their pride ; his protection was both their duty and their interest. In his safety their own fate was involved ; in his hall, stood the board to which they were always welcome ; there he sat with all the feelings of a father in the midst of his chil- dren ; he acted as their general in the day of battle, their judge in the time of peace, and was at all times their friend." IIL — PorULATION. Amount of population in 1755, . «306d 1821, 2907 18:11, . 3294 C ROM DALE. 439 The only villngc in the united parish is Grantown, containing a population of 954. The annual average of births for the last seven years is 84; of marriages, 20. No register of deaths is kept. Number of persons under 15 years of age, 1166 between 15 and SO, 917 3D and 50, 648 50 and 70, 377 upwards of 70, 126 Lmiguage of the People. — Gaelic is the language generally spoken by the great body of the common people, particularly the old ; but almost the whole population, young and old, speak and understand the English language. Indeed, in the lower part of the parish, English is preferred, from its proximity to Inveravon and Knockando, where no Gaelic is spoken. Character of the People. — The inhabitants of the parish are, on the whole, sober, honest, and industrious. They are remark- able, in common with the other people of Strathspey, for their warmth of attachment to their chief; they are uniformly respect- ful to those in stations superior to their own, and have seldom been charged with the commission of crime. They are, with very few exceptions, regular in their attendance on religious ordinances, and it is hoped that a few among them are decidedly pious. Smuggling is entirely abandrmed by them ; but they cannot yet be altogether acquitted of poaching in game or salmon. Their ordinary food consists of oat and barley meal, milk and potatoes. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The latest survey of the united parish was com- pleted in IdlO. According to it, the parish contained at that time. A B, T* 1. Of arable land, . . 5,306 23 2. Under wood, partly natural, partly planted, 3,283 3 1 3. Hills, moors, mosses, &c. . 45,756 4. Lakes, . . 396 1 26 54,744 1 10 The ground planted since 1810 falls to be deducted from No. 3, and added to No. 2, and in like manner the land brought into tillage to be deducted from No. 3, and added to No. 1. As to these, then, it is believed, that about 2500 Scots acres have been planted, and at least 500 brought into cultivation. It is difficult to condescend upon the number of acres that might be added to the cultivated part of the parish, with a profitable application of 440 INVERNBSS*SHIRE. capital, but it is not below the mark to say that above 1000 acres might be thus added. Rent of Land. — The average rent of the land may be stated at about L.1 per acre, including the privilege of hill common, and peat moss, which, in general, the tenants enjoy. Rate of Wages, — The allowance to day-labourers without main- tenance, is from Is. 6d. to 2s. per day ; to masons, from 15s. to 18s. per week ; to carpenters, from 12s. to 15s. per week. Men- servants receive, includingmaintenance, from L.5 to L.6 half-year- ly; women, from L.1, 15s. to L.2; and boys, from L. 2 to L.2, 10s. Husbandry, — The few sheep reared in the parish, are generally of the black-faced kind. There are also a few Cheviots, which the gentlemen and principal tenants keep for family use. The black- cattle consist chiefly of the West Highland breed, and are rec- koned very superior. At the Highland Society great cattle-show held at Inverness in 1839, the first premium was awarded to a te- nant of this parish, for the best Highland bull. The breed of horses has likewise been greatly improved, during the last twenty years. Farming is carried on in the parish on the most improved system. The rotations of cropping are the five and six years' shifts. Trenching and draining have been done to a very great extent, on almost every farm in the parish. The duration of leases is nineteen years. The farm-buildings, and many of the fences, paling, and dry-stone dikes are substantial. V. — Parochial Economy. Markef-Town. — Grantown is the only market-town in the pa. rish. It was founded in the year 1776, by the late inestimable Sir James Grant of Grant, Bart, in the midst of an extensive uncul- tivated moor. Its appearance, since that period, has undergone a great change. According to Mr Anderson, the talented author of an interesting volume on the Highlands and Islands, '^ no vil- lage in the north of Scotland can compare with Grantown in neat- ness and regularity, and in beauty of situation." The town stands at the distance of nearly two miles to the west of Castle Grant, and about half a mile north of the Spey. Near the centre of the town, there is a spacious oblong square, 180 by 700 feet in length. On the south side of the square, stands the Speyside Orphan Hos«> pital, built on a neat design in 1824. Many years ago, a consi- derable sum of money was left by Lady Grant of Monymusk, for charitable purposes. A third part of this fund was allocated by CUOMDALE. 441 Ker Ladyship for Scotland, the object and place to be fixed by the late Dr Gregory Grant of Edinburgh, a native of this parish, and brother of Mr Colquhoun Grant, already mentioned. Considera- ble additions have since been made to the original fund by the fa- mily of Grant. There are at present about thirty children in the hospital, boys and girls. None are admitted under seven, or con- tinued above fourteen years of age. According to the deed of settlement, the children admitted must be natives of either of the parishes of Cromdale, Abernethy, Duthill, Inveraven, or Knock- ando. All the children are supplied with clothing, board, and education. The boys attend during the day in the Grantown school, and the girls are taught by a matron, in the house, who also superintends the establishment. The institution is under the direction and management of the Earl of Seafield, Captain Gre- gory Grant, R. N., Burnside, Captain Grant, factor of Strath- spey, and the ministers of the parishes already mentioned. The sum available for the yearly expenditure of the institution, is nearly L.200. A remarkably neat and commodious school-house, capable of containing 200 scholars, was built by the proprietor two or three years ago, on the north side of the town, at a very con- siderable expense. The church is situated a little to the north of the town, and affords accommodation for about 900 people. A branch of the National Bank of Scotland was established in Gran- town in 1829, and a branch of the Caledonian Bank in 1839. There are several handsome shops in the town, and considerable business transacted. Its population is close upon 1000. Means'" of Communication* — There is a post-ofBce in Grantown, through which there is a daily communication with Carr bridge, Forres, and Ballindalloch. The roads leading to these places are excellent, and kept in thorough repair. There are also regular carriers from Grantown to Forres and Inverness every week. Aber* deen carriers come to Grantown weekly. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church of Crom- dale, on the south back of the Spey, which intersects the parish, is by no means convenient to thegreatbulkof the population. Abridge on the Spey, opposite the church, wftuld confer an unspeakable boon on the people of Cromdale, and it is hoped that this want will ere long be supplied. The church was built in 1809, and is in good repair. It affords accommodation for about 900 sitters, and the sittings are free. Since September 1835, there.has been an ordained minister in Grantowii, who regularly preaches there, and admini- INVERNESS. F f 442 INVERNESS-SHIRE. sters the other ordinances of religion. He is paid L. 60 by the Earl of Seafield, and L. 20 by the Committee for the Mangement of the Royal Bounty. Both churches are, in general, well at- tended ; and the number of communicants in the parish is upwards of 300. Numerous Sabbath schools, which are remarkably well attended by both young and old, are established throughout the parish. There are no Dissenting chapels of any kind, except a Baptist meeting-house in Grantown. The. manse, which was built in 1834, is a commodious and handsome house. There are two glebes, one at Cromdale, and the other at Advie, both of the yearly value of about L. 25. The stipend by the last augmentation in 1819, is 16 chalders, half meal, half barley, with L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion clement money. Education. — The total number of endowed schools in the pa- rish is six. Of these, four are parochial, each teacher receiving a salary, L. 12, 16s. 7d. per annum, with school fees. The school* master of Advie, situated in Morayshire, is entitled to a share of the Dick Bequest. This rather uncommon number of parochial schools was deemed necessary, on account of the extent and po- pulation of the parish. The other two schools are in the village of Grantown, and both gratuitously supported by the proprietor. The teacher of the grammar school receives a salary of L.25 a-year, and the school fees are very considerable, the average number of scholars during the year being not under 150. The other is an infant school, established by the late Honourable ? be- ing carefully marked from the time of thinning, till the whole was sold, about twelve years ago, were found to exceed the simple fee of that part of the Cantray property, yielding now about L.1000 of renti by nearly double the original purchase price : besides, the moor, formerly useless, is now, by the foliage of the trees, con- verted into excellent pasture. Such a remarkable fact shows the benefit of planting waste ground. That venerable patriot, at va- rious periods, planted nearly 1000 acres. Plantations were made to much the same extent, and much about the same time, by the late Mrs Elizabeth Rose of Kilravock, — a lady remarkable for all those graces and accomplishments that adorn the female character, as well as for high literary acquirements and practical good sense. The proprietors of Culloden, Holm, and Leys contributed their share in beautifying the country by planting ; and lately, the pro* prietor of Inches has planted upwards of 400 acres with larch, oaky and other kinds of wood. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — As formerly stated, it cannot now be de- termined when the parishes of Croy and Dalcross were annexed ; it is, however, certain, that, in the year 1226, Croy was a parsonage on which Moy or Strathdearn depended as vicarage, and cessed that year in L.40 Scots for the entertainment of the Bishop of Moray and his court at the annual visitation. In 1 128, the lands of Dalcross, with the patronage thereof, were annexed to the priory of Urquhart, founded three years before by David I.; and in 1343, the vicar of Dalcross, by order of the prior, was to offi- ciate in the private chapel of Kilravock. The remains of DaU cross Church are nearly gone; not so much from the lapse of years, as from the blind zeal and incorrigible stupidity of the people of that district, who considered the building a relic of Popery ; and never was the remark of the philosopher more truly verified than by those Anti-popish dilapidators, ** Nosmet ipsos noscere est difficillimum." In the south of the parish, are the remains of a chapel dedicated to St Dorothy, who is mentioned in the Romish calendar as hav- ing suffered for the Faith, early in the fifth century. Be that as it may, it is highly probable that this chapel was built at the very earliest dawn of Christianity in these northern parts of the king- dom, while the people retained some lingering veneration for the place where their fathers bowed over the cromkac in the Druids' INVERNESS. G g 458 INVEUNESS-SHIRE. Fane, in the centre of which the Christian chapel was erected* There were other two chapels, — one at the east end of the parish^ and the other at Galcantray ; so that few places were better sup- plied with the means of instruction. The present church was built in 1767, and repaired in 1829 ; seated for 527. It is most inconveniently placed, nearly border- ing on the parish of Petty ; but this inconvenience is, in some measure, obviated by the circumstance, that though the parish is upwards of twenty miles in length, there is not a point within it much more than three miles from some parish church. What a contrast to its spiritual destitution in 1567, when there was only one reader (Mr Vause,) for this and the extensive parish of Moy, whose yearly salary amounted to the sum of 13s. 4d. Sterling ! Since that year until 1823, there have been eight clergymen, the average incumbency of each being for thirty-two years. This ac- count would be defective, were the name of the Reverend James Calder passed without notice. Of this truly good and eminent pastor of the parish, it i^ difficult to determine, whether he was most distinguished for his knowledge of the Scriptures, his unre- mitting zeal for the glory of God, or his singular success in preach- ing the Gospel of Christ His manners were gentle, his charity un- bounded, and his piety fervent. Genius, taste, and judgment di- rected his pulpit oratory ; and his powers of persuasion were proved by their uncommon success. This highly honoured serw vant of Christ entered into his rest on the 24th of December ITTS, in the 64th year of his age, and d5th year of his ministry. The stipend is 16 chalders, half meal, halfbarley, of Linlithgow bolls measure, according to the fiars prices of the county. Un- appropriated teinds amount to L. 240, 4s. lOd. Education. — The parish school has been very respectably at- tended for many years, where the modern branches of education are successfully taught on the most approved intellectual princi- ples. The salary of the present teacher is the maximum, and the house accommodation reflects credit on all the heritors and factors connected with the parish. Poor.— Average number of poor on the permanent roll, for the years 1835, 1836, and 1837, 37. Average amount of church coI« lections in their behalf, for these years, L.17, lis.: of other con- tributions! L.3, 68.; of mortifications, mortcloth dues, &c. L.4, ISs. September ^84h PARISH OF KIRKHILL. PRESBYTERY OF INYBRNESS, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. ALEXANDER FRASER, MINISTER.* L — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Situation^ tfc. — Kirkhill consists of two united pa- rishes, called Wardlaw and Farnua. Wardlaw is the name of the hill on which the church was built, and is a corruption of the Gae- lic Bar'^hf that is, ** kindly summit." Farnua or Feamaie^ as it is called in Gaelic, is probably derived from the wordy^am, sig- nifying '^ allar," because the parish did and still does abound with allar trees. The name of the united parishes in Gaelic is Ou^e- mhoiVf or ^^ Mary's hill." In the neighbourhood, it is called, by way of eminence, the Hill : hence the English translation of it, Kirkhill. This parish is about 8 miles long, and from 1 to 8 miles broad. It is bounded on the east and south, by the parish of Inverness ; on the west, by the parish of Kiltarlity ; on the north, by the parishes of Kilmorack, Urray, and Kilternan, being separated from the three last mentioned by the river Beauly and the Moray Frith. For four miles it is a narrow strip, on the declivity of a hill, inclining to the Moray frith, with a north-west aspect. The soil is various. The climate, when compared with many places in the same country, is mild and temperate. (Old Statis- tical Account.) There is a chalybeate spring in this parish at Auchnagairn ; vfhich was once much frequented. Hilby Rivers, 4^. — The hills that run along the south-east of the parish, are pretty high, and covered with heath. The pasture they afford is miserably scanty, the surface being constantly car- ried off for fuel. There are some natural woods of birch and al- der, and a great extent of plantations. The river Beauly runs along the north-west boundary of the parish, for about two or three miles^ It is navigable at high-water by ships of about 50 tons burdcDi so * From notes farniBhed by Mr Thomas Frawr. 4G0 TNVERNESS-SHIBE. fjir as the village of Beauly, in the parish of Kilmorack. It pro- duces abundance of excellent salaion, and several kinds of trouts. 11. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — These are of two kinds ; one for mar- riages, the other for births. The former was commenced in Ja- nuary 1817; the latter in July 1755. Properties, — Rental. LordLovat*8, . . . L. 780 11 2 Keelick, 212 19 6 Newton, . . . . 455 Lentram, . . • . . 217 ' Bunchrew, . . . . . 133 6 8 Auchnagairn, . . . . 173 8 2 Fingask, . . . . . 96 11 6 Newton, about . . . IGOO Auchnagairn is let at present for L.708 2 And the house and garden for 100 808 2 Fingask is entirely in the proprietor's hands, but valued at a rent of L. 500. Mansion-Houses, — The mansion-houses in the parish are those of Newton, Lentram, Auchnagairn, Fingask, Reelick. That of ,Bunchrew of Culloden is not at present inhabited by the family. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1801, . 1582 1811, . 1477 1821, . 1572 1881, . 1715 Number of families in the parish in 1831, . . 381 chiefly employed in agriculture, . 228 in trade, manu&cture, or handicraft, 75 illegitimate births within the last 3 years, . . 2 IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The highest rent of land in the parish is about L. 2, 15s. per acre ; but there is a great deal of very poor land, which lets low. Rent of the land belonging to Lord LoTat in the parish for crop 1840, L. 2120 . Keelick, real rent of, iucluiiing what is in proprietor's hands, about . 640 Rent of what is at present let about . . . 260 Lentram, rent of land let . . . , tMX) but there is a great part in proprietor's hands. Bunchrew, ...... . 310 . Newton, Auchnagairn, Fingask : All in proprietor's hands. On the part belonging to Lord Lovat, and on the Keelick pro- perty, agricultural improvements have been carried on to a very great extent. On the farm of Wester Lovat, there are about 50 acres, yielding the finest crops of corn, which used, not many years ago, to be covered by the tide. This space has been embanked prin* cipally at the proprietor's expense; but on the same farm, about ten RIRKHILL. 461 acres more have been recovered (summer 18409) solely at the te- nant's own expense. In several parts of the parish, a great deal of moorland also is in course of being brought under cultivation, partly at the expense of the proprietor, (Lord Lovat,) and partly at the expense of the different tenants. Also, on the estate of fleelick, which is almost altogether now in the proprietor's own hands, a great deal of waste land, and what had ever before been a perfect morass, has been improved by thorough draining, &c., and yields now the finest crops. About L. 1100 have been ex- pended, during last season, in improving different portions of this property ; and such improvements are still carried on. Navigation, — A considerable number of vessels land at two places on the Beauly Frith, viz. Fopachy and Wester Lovat ; but there is no harbour nor any proper sort of landing-place. These import lime and coals, and export timber and grain. The former has, of late, been exported to a great extent from this parish. These vessels are scliooners, brigs, and sloops. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The whole population belongs to the Esta- blished Church, with the exception of six families : and there are five families of Roman Catholics. The glebe is ten acres in ex- tent, and worth about L. 2 per acre. The manse is at present in very good condition, having been greatly enlarged and entirely repaired, about fourteen years ago. Education. — There are two schools in the parish. The paro- chial schoolmaster's salary is L. 30 : his fees may amount to L. 15 or L. 20. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is about 60. The amount of contributions for their relief is betwixt L. 20 and L. 90, all arising from church collections, excepting aa occasional donation from proprietors. September 1841. PARISH OF ARDROSSER OR ARDERSIER. PRESBYTERY OF NAIRN, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. JOHN MATHESON, MINISTER.* L— Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries. — There are many conjectures and tra* ditions regarding the etymology of Ardersier, or, as it is variously written in the records of the Presbytery of Chanonry, to which it was attached till the year 1773, '^Ardersuir, Artbursire ;" and in a map of Moray, from drawings by Sir Robert Gro'rdon of Stra« loch, taken in 1640, it is spelt Ardyrsyir. It is pronounced in Gaelic ** Ardnasaor^*^ which may signify " the height of the car- penter;" tradition having preserved a vague story, that several carpenters were drowned in the ferry, during the period that the cathedral of Chanonry was being built Although this derivation is plausible, it may reasonably be supposed that the parish had a name before this accident befell the craftsmen. So far back as the year 1226, in a deed of agreement between the Bishops of Moray and Ross, affecting this parish, and transcribed in the ** Registrum Moraviense,** it is written " Ardrosser." This is probably derived from the Gaelic Ard^ high, Ross^ a promontory or peninsula, and tar, west ; or the adjunct may be an arbitrary termination. This interpretation is in consonance with the fea- tures of the parish, which towards its western and northern limits exhibits a front of verdant hill, at some points 200 feet above the level of the sea. This hill does not extend to the point of land which juts into the sea, and which is occupied by Fort- George, but terminates by a gradual slope within a mile of it, and suggests the idea that the cape had been washed away by some early inun- dation. The length of the parish, from north-west to south-east, is about four miles; its breadth upwards of two miles. It is bounded on the north, by the Moray Frith, whose waters also wash its grace- * J>niini up by James Tolmia, Esq. SuigeoD, C«mpbe1ton. ARDERSIER. 463 fully winding coast on the west ; on the souths by the parish of Pettie, a narrow cuneiform pendicle of which interposes between part of its western face, and the bay of Campbelton ; and on the east by the parish of Nairn. Its figure may be compared to that of an irregular delta. The northern coast, which stretches upwards of three miles along the Moray Frith, is flat and sandy ; varied in some localities with dunes of blown sand, grown over with Amtnophila arundinacea^ (bent,) in others with heathy ridges, clumps of furze, and patches of gravel. The face of this flat is further diversified by inconsi* derable extents of morass along the ridges ; and in some of the lowest spots, which are scarcely above the level of the sea, by ex« pauses of water hardly deserving the name of lochs, though one of them is called Lietchfield loch, the other Lochineghtac. The landscape loses somewhat of its wildness towards the eastern boun- dary of the parish, where, in the carse, some small farms are culti^ vated ; not, however, with uniform success, as the drifting sands make occasional inroads. On this coast, upwards of a mile east from Fort*.George, a sand bank, called Whiteness-head, juts in an oblique direction far into the frith, and, being only seen at low- wa- ter, renders the navigation dangerous. The western coast extends with a curved outline nearly two miles along the margin of a picturesque bay, its level and smooth- ly pebbled beach forming a commodious bathing-place. From the top of the hill already noticed, a plain of cultivated land extends backwards towards the confines of Nairn, terminat- ing in pasture or heath, and towards the south in a moss whence peats are obtained. Meteorology, — No regular register of the temperature, nor of the pressure of the atmosphere^ is kept in the parish. Nor has any been kept in the neighbourhood for a sufficient number of years to furnish the annual average. At the manse of Pettie, (a dis- tance of four miles,) which is not so exposed as the higher parts of this parish, and not so sheltered as the lower grounds around Campbelton, and which, in consequence, enjoys the average cli- mate of the district, a register of temperature has* been kept for the last few years from the commencement of seed-time till the end of harvest ; and occasionally, if any great deviation from the ave- rage temperature of the season took place, during the winter months. From that register, I find that during the severe snow-storm in Janu<* June. July. Higbeiton Highest on 10th, • 7.2.0 25th, . 72.' Lowest on Lowest on 16th, . 41. • 9th, 46.'* Aver. max. 60.37 Aver. max. 57.25 min. 48.7 min. 50.81 Rain oii 13 Rain on 21 464 INVERNESS-SHIBE. ary last, when birds were said to have been found frozen to the bran* ches of trees in different parts of Scotland, the lowest temperature was on the night of the 8th, when the thermometer fell to 10°. Dur* ing that day its highest indication was 22^. The lowest tempera- ture in March was on the 8th, d?""; the highest on the 16th, 62^. Of the obsenrations during the four following months, the result is as follows : ApriL May* Highest on Highest on 28th, . 64." 26th, 29th, 74.' Lowest on Lowest on 2d, 16th, 86." 3d, . 82.* Average max. 51.8 Aver. max. 60.03 Average min. 88.6 min. 45.5 Rain on 13 Rain on 7 days &qiiant.2. 1196 days &quant. 1.2800 dayn&quant.2.61 10 days & quant 3.8668 In 1840,i»as,0.d286 In 1840, 2.8286 In 1840, 1.6700 In 1840, 2.12R0 In the register from which the above is taken, it is remarked that the ash trees before the manse were not so expanded in leaf on the 10th June 1840, as on the 28th May 1841 ; also that a brood of fully fledged starlings was seen in the church-yard on the 5th June. Among the prognostics of the weather, there is one which is pretty generally known, and very frequently correct When the lloss-shire hills are seen very distinctly in the morning, coming rain is foretold ; when a haze or drv mistiness renders these hills or any distant object less distinct, a dry day is indicated. Darwin, in his Zoonomia, somewhat fancifully explains this atmospheric phenomenon on the principle, that the increase of transparency, by filling the pores with fluid, is seen by soaking white paper in oily which, from an opaque, becomes a transparent body. The atmosphere is dry and salubrious. As illustrating in some measure the salubrity of the climate, we may mention the follow- ing fact, for which we are indebted to the Rev. Mr Campbell of Croy, to whom the parties were well known. About forty years ago, there were living in the parish fourteen individuals, ten males, and four females, whose respective ages at the time of their death, (and the last of them lived till about six years ago,) were as fol- lows : one 106 years, one 104, one 103; these three were Chel- sea pensioners; one 100, two 98, one 96, two 94, one 92, two, 90, and two 88. The rains of spring and autumn readily perco- late through the shingly and porous subsoil which characterizes the lower parts of the parish, between which and the higher part there is a well-marked climatic difference. While the upper part ARDEBSIEH. 4C5 is exposed to storms from the east and north, the village of Camp* belton, from the shelter of the line of hill which rises behind it like a screen, enjoys an almost perfect immunity. On the 26th June 1826, the thermometer indicated 84^ in the village, while on the height, from the fanning effect of a light sea breeze, it did not exceed 82^. In cold weather, the difference is more marked. The weather in spring is rather variable ; one day, or a succession of days, may simulate the genial warmth of summer, and be abruptly followed by the chilling rigour of winter. We have no endemic disease. As the prevalent distempers of the district, rheumatism, erysipelas, and catarrhal affections may be instanced. In estimating the influences which act upon organized beings in the production or modification of disease, other agencies than at- mospheric or miasmatic must be taken into account Thus, the vicissitudes of the circulation produced by hard labour and expo- sure to cold, irregular and innutrient meals, and the use of ardent spirits, operate in producing disease, or begetting a suscepti- bility to it Erysipelas is certainly a common affection in the dis- trict. All cutaneous diseases, however, (not even excepting the national opprobrium,) are made to personate it by the indiscrimi- nating rustics. Derangement of the functions of the skin, from inattention to ablution, may contribute to the frequency of this ex- anthem. Hydrography, — The Moray Frith washes the northern coast of the parish, and an extension of it, which, to the south of YovU George, acquires the name of the Frith of Beauly, forms a bay on the western shore, which, from the bold and picturesque contour of the hills on the opposite coast of Ross-shire, presents a beauti- ful landscape. From the hill behind Campbelton, there issues in a continuous jet, a strongly chalybeate spring, which has deserved- ly acquired a high character as a tonic, and is frequented by ner- vous, dyspeptic, and cachectic invalids. Geology. — There is not an exposed rock in the parish. Two or three small- sized boulders of gneiss occur within the high water- mark. The terrace or line of hill which skirts the western and northern coasts, shows its alluvial origin from the alternate strata of sand and clay observable in exposed sections. No sea shells have been found in this ridge. Along the coast there are manifest im- pressions of geological changes. On the west, the sea has, at a remote period, made considerable encroachments. Peat is found several hundred yards within high-water mark, under a la^^t ^^ 466 1NVERNESB-SHIRE. sand of about a foot in thickness. From the agency of successive tides and currents, this encroachment is slowly becoming less, as is evi- denced by the beach of loose shingle thrown up in the course of ages, which extends along the coast for nearly two miles, and which is in parts upwards of a quarter of a mile in breadth. That the causes which produced this marine deposit are still in operation, is known by the fact that, within the last twenty years, the access to the pier at Fort- George has been completely blocked up by a barrier of this shingly debris.* The northern coast bears marks of extensive inundation. Upwards of a mile inland from the present flood- mark are distinctly visible two beaches of shingle or water-worn pebbles, parallel to each other in their winding outline, and dis- tant from each other only a few yards. Parts of the reclaimed land have been, time immemorial, under tillage. If the inundation happened within the historical a^ra, it was probably in the year 1097, when we are told by BoethiiTs, Buchanan, and other histo- rians, that the Goodwin estate was overwhelmed by sand, and the lands of Moray desolated by an inundation of the German Ocean. . In the banks of the rill which divides Ardersier from Fleming- ton, and which has a channel of some depth, logs of black oak, lying horizontally, are seen at depths varying from three to five feet below the surface level. At many points the sides and bot- tom of the channel present extensive patches of bog-iron ore. Zoology* — Quails have been frequently shot in the parish, and starlings have hatched young broods in the neighbourhood. In the winter months, the coast is frequented by flocks of aquatic fowl. Barnacle, sheldrake, teal, and widgeon are the frequent prey of sportsmen. And some of the rarer species, as the red- breasted merganser (Mergus serrator,) have been shot in the bay. Of shell-fish, the cockle (Cardium eduhy) which abounds in the sea sands, deserves notice. They are gathered in quantities by the fisher girls, and conveyed to the Inverness market ; and they afibrd a savoury variety to the humble repast of the poorer classes, whose children are sent to collect them. Muscles and periwin- kles are also common on the coast. Botany, — The flora of the parish does not comprehend any very rare species of plants. The maiden-pink {Dianthus deltoides) * At one locality, Mine hundred yards from the shore, and about eighteen inches beneath the suiface of the sea sands, a mass of sandstone with a mixture of carbonate of lime, and enclosing innumerable fossil shells, all of existing species, is discoverable. The shells seem to be in difTerent stnges of fossilization, the texture of the stone be- ipg softer near the surface. ARDEUGIER. 467 has a locality on Cromal mount, as has likewise the Myosolis co^ linaj (a plant rare in this neighbourhood.) That magnificent aqua- tic, the white water lily, {Nymphaa alba,) grows in gorgeous pro- fusion in Lochineghtac. The surface of this miniature Jake is li- terally obscured by the plentiful display of this splendid flower. Of the other plants found in the parish, the following, as not be* ing very generally distributed, may be mentioned : • -Agrimonia eupatoria Erythraea littoralis Reseda latedla Astragalus hypoglottis Fumaria capreolata Rhinanthus migor Cakile xnaritiroum Hyacinthus nonseriptus Senecio riscosus Centaurea seabiosa Knautia anrensis Solidago virgaurea Chenopodium maritimiim Lithoapermum maritimum Sazifraga granulate Drosera Angllca Malva rotundifolia Vicia sylvatica. Ecbium Tulgare Primula yulgaris The Erythr» verness market. For short voyages along the coast in the summer time, the fishermen have sharp-built and fast -sailing yawls. By their industry, many of these men have been enabled to save some money ; but the hazardous nature of their calling, renders highly commendable their present intention of establishing, in conjunction with the fishers of Fettie, a branch of the '^ Shipwrecked Fisher^ men and Mariner's Society." Navigation. — Three vessels, of about 100 tons burthen each, which are employed in the Sunderland trade, belong to a family in the village. V. — Parochial Economy. Campbelton is the only village and market-town in the parish. Inverness is distant ten miles, and Nairn seven miles. The population of Campbelton proper, according to the census of the present year, is 730 ; of the back-street, which, though belonging to the pa- rish of Pettie, is dove-tailed and connected with it in civil and mu- nicipal interests, 228, — making in all 958. There is a post-office in the village, and, besides the mail, two stage-coaches pass daily to the south and north. The great post*road from Inverness to Aberdeen passes through the village, as does also the military road from Fort-George to Perth, projected by General Wade, and be- gun inl 753. Ab outtwenty-four fcuars in Campbelton possess votes in the election of a Member of Parliament for the county, and the number of qualifications may be increased. The County Co». stabulary Committee have lately established a policeman ; and the county Prison-Board have, at a recent meeting, come to the resolu- tion of erecting a lock-up-house. A small debt court is held every month. There is no harbour. This is a great desideratum, as, independently of the usual traffic in coals and lime, the beach is much frequented as a shipping place for pit-props and other tim- ber from adjacent properties ; as well as for grain from the sur« ARDEUSIER. 477 rounding country. A harbour would be a great boon to the Gsher- men of the village, a very industrious class of people, who, from their remoteness from a pier, are precluded from participating in the gratuities given by the Fishery Board to others of their voca-^ tion resident within a mile of a harbour. Ecclesiastical State. — Although Ardersier be now, and very na- turally, comprehended within the bounds of the provincial synod of Moray, yet, for some years even subsequent to the Revolution, it was connected with the synod of Ross. Previous to the Reforma- tion, it had belonged to the diocese of Ross. In what manner it came to be claimed by the Bishop of Ross, we do not know. Perhaps, previous to the irruption of the sea at Fort-Geojge, part of Ardersier might have been geographically more connected with Ross than with Moray : Be this as it may, we find that both the bishops laid claim to the parish, as pertaining to their respec- tive sees : and that it was necessary, in 1226, to terminate the dispute by a formal arrangement, according to which the Bishop of Moray agrees to relinquish his pretensions to Ardersier, and the Bishop of Ross, to renounce claims which he had advanced to Kiltarlity, as part of the diocese of Ross. In the chartulary of Moray, (Charter 75), we have the formal composition of their dif- ferences as to these parishes, and the engagement of the Bishop of Ross to pay to the cathedral of Elgin '^ unam petram cerae, pro confraternitate et orationibus et aliis beneficiis ibidem faciendis habenda." Among the witnesses to this agreement is the name of Mauritius, who combined in his own person the offices of '* canon of Rosmarkyn, and parson of Ardrosser." Ardersier was the seat of tlie sub-dean of Ross. We find that, after the Refor- mation, it was successively attached to the presbyteries of Ross, Dingwall, and Chanonry, till the year 1707, when it was con- nected with the Presbytery of Forres, or the Presbytery of Inver- ness, which about this period were divided into two presbyteries while they had been previously united. In 1711, the records of Chanonry state that Ardersier is now of this date reunited to Chanonry. In 1773, Ardersier was, by an act of Assembly, dis- joined from Chanonry, to make part of the newly erected Presby- tery of Nairn, within the synod of Moray, to which it has since continued to be connected. The earliest notice of the incumbents of this parish which we have been able to obtain, is the following, which occurs under the head " Ministers in Ross" — in the Register of lavwUvaxs, ^^^cv^\^ftx%, 478 1NVERNESS-8HIKE. and readers, and of their stipends 1563-76," printed for the Malt* land Club in 1 830. " Ardorseir, Awath, Suddie, Kylmuir Webster, Ardorsier — John Smyth, reidar, xxti November 1569. Dischargit sen No- yember 1571, again the same time as the commissionaris writing beris. Andro Mill, minister, jc merkis November 1569, xxti mscir sen November 1571, and for thir twa kirkis xx merkis sen Lambmes 1572. The vicarage of Awath, extending to viijti vijs id in part of payment of foresaid stipend." Mr A. S. Allan, Kincardine, to whom we are indebted for the preceding notice, mentions that in the Advocates' Library, there is an MS.roll of the names of the ministers in the Kirk in Scotland, who refused to submit to Prelacy, and continued stedfast in own- ing Presbyterian Government after the re-establishment of Epis- copacy in 1661-1662, in which the name of Mr John M^Culloch at Ardersire occurs. In 1686, Mr John Dallas was Dean of Ross, and parson of Ar- thursire, as appears from a mortification by the Bishop, Dean, and Chapter of Ross, given in General Hutton's MS. collection in the Advocates' Library. From another MS. in the same library, entitled *' Ane account of the names of the ministers and parishes in the several synods and presbyteries of Scotland, at and since the late Revolution, 1689, &c." written in 1711 or 1712, we have this extract: " Presbytery of Chanonry, Arthursire, Mr John Dallas, Dean of Ross, outed and deprived by the return of Mr John M'Kulloch, late Presbyterian minister, 1697, and upon Mr M'Kul loch's leav- ing 'the place, Mr Dallas intruded again, and remained till he died. Mr Lachlan M^Bean, also Episcopal incumbent, intruded then — afterwards received by the commission, and now (1711 or 1712) deposed for immorality." Mr M^Bean had been previously settled in 1688^ as Episcopal minister of Calder, but demitted that charge in 1698, and went to Ardersier as above. He was the last Episcopal incumbent of the parish, and his continuance as such was connived at both in Calder and Ardersier. Mr Hugh Campbell, ordained in 1707, translated to Kiltearn in 1 708. In the records of the Presbytery of Chanonry is a mi- nute bearing that the Presbytery, after some trouble v^ith the Laird of Calder, the sole heritor, of this date (September 1713,) ordained Daniel Beaton minister. In 1717, Mr Beaton complained that ARDBRSIER. 479 the stipend being only two chalders of victual, and some 'small vi- carage tithes, worth 26 pounds Scots, at most, and two pounds Scots, and no grass, he could not live on this. The same year he was translated to Rosskeen. Alexander Falconer, ordained in 1718. In the Chanonry re- cords are notices of sundry collections made during Mr Falconer's incumbency ; as for the distressed Protestants of Lithuania ; for the French Protestants ; for the Scots congregation in New York ; for a bridge over the river Dee, by order of the General Assem. bly ; for the piers at Banff and Aberbrothick. In 1728, Gray of Skiboll, and Gordon of Garty, were guilty of a violent outrage, and were made to submit to public discipline in the church of Ardersier, and to pay a fine of L.dO. This year Mr Falconer was translated to Ferrintosh. Duncan Macintosh ordained 1729, died in 1736. James Calder ordained 1737. In 1741, Mr Calder refused an earnest call to Inverness. In 1747, he had a call from Kilmuir- Wester, and another from Croy ; he accepted the latter. On one of these occasions, he declines the call on the ground of the inabi- lity of the minister of Sffir an leth dusaUy (the parish of the half- dozen), to discharge the duties of a large parish. The Laird of Calder presented Mr William Barron, minister of Ardclach, to Ardersier, but the Presbytery of Forres refused to translate him. In 1749, he presented Mr Daniel Brodie. In 1751, the glebe of Ardersier seems to have been removed on ac- count of the grounds required for the Fort. The following year Mr Brodie is translated to Calder, on which occasion the laird wishes to have Ardersier united to Calder ; but the Presbytery re- fuse their consent to the proposed union of the charges. It was probably from the delay occasioned by the attempt to unite these parishes, that no minister was settled in Ardersier till 1757, when Mr Harry Gordon was ordained to the charge. The stipend at this period hardly amounted to L.100 a-year, as we are told by Major Pryse Gordon, son of the incumbent, in his Personal Me* moirs and Reminiscences ; but Mr Gordon was also chaplain to the neighbouring garrison, for which he received a further remu- neration of 15s. per week. Mr Gordon was succeeded in 1764 by Mr Walter Morison, the " Aristophanes of the North," or " the Witty Walter." Anecdotes of his wit, humour, and face- tiousness, are still current in the district. From the records of the Presbytery of Nairn, of date May I3th 1777, we give thefol- ing extract: ** There was laid before iVie PresV^V^t'^ ^'^^>iyjCviwV» ^SO INVERNESS-SHIUK. the Committee for managing the Royal Bounty, signed the L(.- Governor, and principal inhabitants of Fort- George, craving that the Committee would grant a proper salary to Mr Walter Mori- son, minister of Ardersier, for encouraging him to preach in the Fort every Sabbath, at an hour not interfering with his parish kirk, which petition the Presbytery did highly approve, and did, and do hereby recommend it to the serious consideration of the Com- mittee." We quote this minute, to show the activity evinced in former times, in regard to the provision for a minister or chaplain in the Fort. At the union of Scotland with England, it was sti- pulated that chaplains should be maintained in the three castles of Edinburgh, Stirling, and Dumbarton. It being considered un- necessary to continue the chaplaincy at Dumbarton, this situation was some years ago abolished. But in order to fulfil the act of Union in spirit, if not in letter, the chaplaincy of Fort-George was substituted in its room. And yet this chaplaincy has been dealt with, as if, in maintaining it, a boon to which they had no claim, was conferred on the garrison. We observe the Presbytery of Edinburgh taking steps, in order to give the chaplain of that 4:astle a seat in the Presbytery. But the Presbytery of Nairn seems to overlook the fact that the chaplain of Fort-George has an equal title to a seat in the Presbytery of Nairn. The situation of chaplain is a very important one, and should have an adequate provision, instead of the present pittance allowed by Government. Mr Pryse Campbell succeeded Mr Morison, as appears by the following extract from the Presbytery of Nairn records of date 6th March 1781 : " The moderator asked the people if they had any objection to the presentee ; they replied they had none, as he agreed to preach in Erse." In December 1839, Mr John Matheson was ordained assistant and successor to Mr Campbell. In February 1840, Mr Camp- bell died at the advanced age of 86. He was distinguished for cheerfulness of disposition, liveliness of imagination, and disinte- rested benevolence. The parish church is situated in the eastern and interior part of the parish, and is convenient for the bulk of the population, three-fourths of which reside in Campbelton, about a mile distant. It was finished in 1802, and is in a good state of repair. It aflbrds accommodation for upwards of 500. No seat rents are now paya- ble. The manse, which is commodious and modern, was built in 1828. The glebe extends to 17 acres arable, and about five of pas- lure. It is worth about L. 25. The amount of stipend paid by ARDERSIEB. 461 Earl Cawdor, is L. 117, 15s. 7cl.,ihe remainder, raising the amount to L. 150, is paid by the Exchequer. At present there is no cate- chist There is no Dissenting or Seceding chapel in the parish. Divine service at the Established Church is generally well attend- ed. The number of male communicants is about 30. A Bible society was instituted at Campbelton fifteen years ago ; besides dis- tributing copies of the Scriptures in both languages, at reduced prices, and gratuitously, it grants donations of about L. 10 annually to other societies. The average annual amount of church collec- tions is about L. 20; for missionary and other purposes, L. 16. Education. — Besides the.parochial school, there are three other schools in the village of Campbelton ; one a private unendowed school ; a boarding-school for females ; and an infant school lately built under the auspices of Lady Anderson. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 36, 7s. Ifd. The late Rev. James Denoon of Rothsay, and Mr James Camp- bell of Baltimore, were among the early teachers in the parish school. The late Mr John Smith, for a period of forty-two jears, efficiently discharged the duties of parochial schoolmaster. His school, so long as his physical powers were adequate to the arduous duties of teaching, was crowded by scholars from the surrounding district. Of his extensive classical knowledge, and happy manner of communicating the same, many of his pupils, who have distin- guished themselves in the different learned professions, bear living testimony. Mr Smith was a teacher in Abernethy and Kirkmi- chael, for sixteen years before he came to this parish ; and the Cel- tic Society, two years before his death, presented him with a gold medal, in acknowledgement of his long and meritorious public services There is a Sabbath school in the village, which is well attended. Library. — A Subscription Library, on a small scale, was formed in Campbelton about two years ago, which, it is hoped, may tend to increase the intelligence, and promote the moral improvement of the people. - Charitable and other Institutions, — There are two Friendly So- cieties, which have existed for nearly forty years. Members pro- cure coals and meal at an easier rate, — the societies purchasing these articlesjwith ready money at wholesale prices, and distributing them to the members at prime cost ; and the funeral expenses of members or their wives are defrayed by the society. The real advantage of this latter arrangement is questionable, as it encoM- rages drinking at lyke-wakes and funerals, aivA c^xVivcvX^ fti^^^ tc^x. 482 INVBRNBS8-SHIRG. promote a desire of independence. It would be more advanta- geous if they deposited their earnings in a savings' bank ; but as yet there is none in the parish, — the nearest, established about two years[[ago, being in Inverness. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid is about 60. From the inadequacy of the church collections to meet the real wants of the poor, private sub- scriptions were set on foot in the parish for the last three or four years. L. 20 were raised in this way about two years ago, and Earl Cawdor liberally contributed L. 20 more. But, notwith* standing that the annual sum allowed^to each pauper was materi- ally increased by these voluntary contributions, they have been found insufficient to prevent the weekly applications of beggars. Fairs, — A great annual fair, the ^* Lammas Market," is held at Campbelton on the I2th of August, — being the only fair in the parish, and, its object and advantages being of a varied character, masses of people congregate. Numerous reapers, chiefly females, come from Ross-shire and the surrounding country, and they are readily hired for the harvest, by farmers from Moray and Nairn- shire, as well as from distant parts of this county. There is usu- ally a good show of lambs from Strathnairn, Stratherrick, and Strathglass ; some sheep and milk cows, and *a few horses. Wool and homespun plaidings, cheese, and fruits are among the com- modities of the country offered for sale. Inns^ (J-c. — 'Of inns, ale-houses, and spirit-shops, there are no fewer than ten in the parish ; all in the village of Campbelton. Whilst three or four inns for the accommodation of travellers would amply supply all reasonable demands for refreshment, it is too notorious, that, where there are so many competitors, the if)citements and facilities offered, and the idle and dissolute habits formed, exert the most baneful influence on the morals of the people. FneL — An abundant supply of coals from Sunderland and New- castle is brought to the beach at Campbelton, and is purchased for 15s. per ton. The carriage from the shore is lOd. per ton additional. There are two or three yards where coals are stored, and sold in the winter at a little increase of price. Peats are brought from the parish of Cawdor, and other places, in small carts, and sold at about Is. 6d. a load. Fire-wood is procured from the saw-mill at Kilravock and from Cawdor, at a reasonable rate. September 1841. PARISH OF KILTARLITY. I'RESbYTEHY of INVERNESS, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. C- FRASER, MINISTER.^ I. — Topography and Natural History, What now forms the parish of Kiltarlity consisted formerly of two parishes, Convinth and Kiltarlity. The date of their union is not known. Name. — It is supposed that the name Kiltarlity is derived from Gaelic words signifying the place of sepulture of TarraiL But of the individual named Tarrail, nothing is known. It may be noticed, however, that there is a stone, known, for time immemorial, by the appellation of Clack Tarrail (TarraiPs stone), still pointed out as that which covers his grave. This stone lies about half-a-mile south-west from the old churchyard of Kiltarlity. Another account of the origin of the name is, that the parsonage of Kiltarlity be- ing dedicated to St Thalargus, the burial-ground surrounding the church was called Cille Thalargus^ and, hence, by corruption, the Xi^xne Kiltarlity, The name Convinth is supposed to be derived from two Gaelic words, Conna Bheathach (a ravenous animal) j and tra- dition says that this district obtained the name in consequence of a wild boar having long infested and committed great havoc therein. Extent. — This is considered among the largest parishes in the Highlands. From the north-east boundary to the north-west ex- tremity, the distance is calculated at about 45 miles. The Par- liamentary road which intersects the parish from east to west is up- wards of 40 miles; the breadth of the parish is small in propor- tion to its great length, being, upon an average, only about six miles. Boundaries. — Kiltarlity is bounded by the united parishes of Ur- quhartand Glenmorriston on the south and south-west; by Glenshiel on the west; by Kintail on the north-west; by Kilmorack on the north ; Kirkhill on the east; and by the parish of Inverness on the south-east. The whole northern part is bounded by Kilmorack^ * Drawn up by Mr John Fraser, KWtaTUiy mv^K. 434 INVERNESS-SHIRE. The Davoch of Erchless and Annat, on the north side of the river Beauly, belong to this parish ; and another Davoch, consisting of three farms, called the Crochails, on the south side of the river Glass, belongs to the parish of Kilmorack : but, with the above ex- ceptions, Loch-AHaric, Loch-na- luire, and Loch-beinncmhian, together with the rivers Glass and Beauly, constitute the march be- tween the parishes of Kiltarlity and Kilmorack. Topographical Appearances, — There are hills on each side of the River Glass along the whole of its course : and, with the exception of a low- lying country, of about nine square miles at its eastern ex- tremity, the parish is composed of hilly and rocky ground, intersect- ed by valleys and glens, the most considerable of which are Strath- glass and Glenconvinth. The hills and mountains in this parish are not remarkably high ; probably the highest amongst them is Aonach Sassan, (English Htil), on the property of William Fraser, Esq. of Culbockie. It is estimated at about 2000 feet above the level of the sea. They generally present a roughly rounded outline ; few, if any, ascending in the form of peaks. They range from east to west, and from south-east to north-west. Indeed, by far the greater part of the surface of the parish is very rugged and rocky. In the western portion, many of the rocks are inaccessible to human tread, and are inhabited by goats, which have becbme so wild, that their owners are under the necessity of shooting, ere they can take them. The presence of these creatures gives much additional in- terest to the solemn grandeur of the surrounding scenery. On ledges of these high rocks, eagles form their eyries and rear their young in defiance of the attempts sometimes made by shepherds to dislodge them. The peregrine falcon, formerly so much prized by the falconer for its docility and courage ; the fork or salmon- tailed kite, the kestril, and the raven, dwell among the clifls and ravines. Few places in the Highlands of Scotland can vie with Strathglass in romantic beauty and grandeur. The black and barren appearance of the rugged and towering mountains on either • side, although happily relieved in many places by the presence of a considerable quantity of birch, hazel, and natural fir, contrasts well with the fertility and loveliness of the smiling vale below, through which the river Glass gently wends its serpentine course over a bed of purest sand, glistening like a silver thread in the light of a summer sun, and ever and anon concealed from view by the intervening foliage of a fringe of alder, mountain-ash, and weep- ing-birch, by which its banks are ornamented. So gently, indeed, does the river flow in many places, that a current is scarcely at all KILTAULITY. 4^5 perceptible, and its unrippled surface reflects, as from a mirror, the gaunt and hoary rocks ^hich overlook it, and which seem as if placed sentry there for the purpose of preserving the peaceful and rustic scene below from the assault of conflictincf elements or the intrusion of unhallowed strife. This romantic strath affords great attractions to tourists, many of whom visit it in the summer season. Gentlemen's seats are not numerous, but, the situations being generally very well chosen, they tend much to enliven theap« pearance of the country. The most prominent and remarkable amongst them is a lofty turretted building called Erchless Castle. It is said to have been built in the fifteenth century, but is still in a state of excellent repair, and is kept up as the family mansion of " The Chisholm," chief of that ilk. It overlooks a noble park, studded with venerable aged-looking trees, among which are some of the remains of the old Caledonian forest. Besides a very con- siderable quantity of natural timber, there have been about 1000 cicres in the neighbourhood of Erchless, planted with larch, oak, ash, elm, beech, plane-tree, Scotch fir, chesnut, &c. and all this has been done within the last twenty-four years. Of The Chisholm's property in this parish, there are about 750 imperial acres of arable land kept in regular cultivation. The hill ground was never measured, so that the number of acres cannot be stated. The real rent of the property belonging to him in this parish, is about L. 1036. At Fasnacoil, (which is upwards of twenty miles from where Beauly falls into the sea,) the river Deaothack* joins the Glass. This river is about forty feet in breadth, and from three to six feet in depth ; the stream is very rapid, and its course runs from west to east. It takes its rise from some springs and rivulets in the hills on the south side of Strathglass, and is upwards of twelve miles in length. The fishing upon it is very indifferent, consisting only of small trout and eels. For about four miles of the extent of this small river, there is a continuous succession of rapids and cascades, the most remarkable of which is Plodda Fall, situated about a mile and a half to the westward of Guisachan House. The proprietor, William Frascr, Esq. of Culbockie, has been at considerable expense in forming a pleasure-walk along the banks of this river, which possesses all the attractions which the most fanciful dispo* sition of rock and wood can contribute. The wood along the banks consists of old magnificent Scotch firs interspersed with oak and birch, which add much to the effect of the scenery, in * A Gaelic word signifying that it occasionuiV^ \)«CQmeA ^t>]« 486 INVKRNESS^SIIIRE. itself of a most grand and imposing nature. Some of the firs here measure from 14 to 16 feet in circumference, and are up- M*ards of 60 feet in height. About 400 yards from Guisachan House, which is a large and elegant mansion, surrounded by verdant lawns, there is a beautiful fall of water, well worthy of note. The stream is precipitated over a ledge of rock about 70 feet high into a circular basin of considerable dimensions, form- ing a deep dark linn, which, together with the very romantic ravine through which the water escapes, is overhung by many species of wood, exhibiting the most luxuriant foliage, and in some cases very fantastic vegetation — the productions of an un- commonly fertile soil, watered by the spray which is continually falling around them. Indeed, none but those who have visited this romantic spot can form any idea of the varied scenery presented to their observation. The soil is as rich as any in the Lothians, and there is about the place altogether a pleasant air of comfort and neatness, which is greatly enhanced by the striking contrast it pre- sents to the steep mountains and rugged wilds with which it is environed. The venerable and worthy proprietor of this estate has evinced great taste in improving its natural beauties, and has taken advantage of the capabilities of the soil by introducing the most approved system of modern agriculture to a district, which, •though now nearly able to maintain itself without having recourse to the importation of corn from other parts of the country, was, u^til within a few years ago, inhabited by a wild, irregular, po- verty-stricken people, among whom the demoralising practice of illicit distillation prevailed to a very great extent, favoured and encouraged as it was, by the inaccessible nature of the sur- rounding country. Happily, however, these days are now gone by, and, owing to the judicious measures adopted by the pro- prietors for the encouragement of industry and the promotion of education, a great and beneficial change has been effect- ed, not only on the appearance of the country, but on the ha- bits and dispositions of the peasantry of Strathglass, who now, though perhaps, indeed, more excitable in temperament and less regularly industrious than their neighbours in the lower part of the parish, are, upon the whole, happy and contented with their lot in life ; and, in their bearing towards strangers, as well as in their intercourse with one another, evince a high degree of native politeness and hospitality, — while, at the same time, their almost uniformly respectful demeanour towards superiors is a pleasant trait in their character, which recommends them to the notice. KILTARLITY. 487 and secures the good will of all who may have occasion to sojourn in these parts. On the Glass, about a mile above Fasnacoil, there is a fall of water about 30 feet high, called Easnambroc, from the number of badgers which frequent the sandy soil in its neighbourhood. At Invercannich, about four miles further down than Fasnacoil, the river Cannich enters the Glass, and this river is again joined by the river Farrar, in front of The Chisholm's seat, and assumes the name of the Beauly for the rest of its course. Two excellent bridges cross these rivers about a mile above their junction ; and near that which crosses the Farrar, and which is strongly built with granite, stands the house of Struy, the seat of an ancient and respectable branch of the clan Fraser, whose representative is the next in succession, as heir of entail, to the estates of Lovat, after the present chief, and the heirs-male of his body. The rivers Cannich and Farrar flow through districts of the parish of Kilmorack. The Beauly is the most considerable stream in the parish, and, though not navigable further than the village of Beauly, about a mile and a-half above where it falls into the sea, it is of considerable use as a means of transporting timber to where it can be conveniently shipped for exportation. The distance from the point of confluence between the rivers Farrar and Glass to the Beaulv Firth, is about nine miles. To account "... for the fact that the Ashing of this river belongs altogether to Lord Lovat, though proceeding through great part of the estates of conterminous proprietors, it is said that Simon Lord Lovat, on the occasion of the family possession being forfeited after the Re- bellion in 1715, requested his friend, the Duke of Gordon, who was then in favour at Court, to present a petition, which he had drawn out, to the king* The Duke did so, and it was found, on perusing its contents, that Lord Lovat's request was so modest and withal so strange, that the king, highly amused with the sup- posed eccentricity which dictated it, immediately gave orders tha it should be granted. His request was that *^ one lea rig behind the castle might be given to him and his heirs in perpetuity," The lea rig is said to have meant the river. The revenue to the Noble proprietor from this source alone is very considerable, being stated to be rented at nearly L. 2000 per annum. The fishing of it gives employment to twelve men. About four miles below Erchless, the river leads to a small rus- tic hamlet called Wester Eskadale, on an eminence above which, though half-concealed by birch trees, appear l\\^ \<\v\V^ ^^% "wA. 488 inverness-shirf:* pinnacles of a neat Roman Catholic Chapel, erected a few years ago by Lord Lovat at a considerable expense. Half-a-onile to the east of the chapel, the elegant mansion of Eskadale appears amid plantations and cultivated fields, and commands an extensive view of the Strath. On the opposite side of the river, and under the brow of a wooded hill, is the house of Aigas, a property which has lately been acquired by purchase and added to the other possessions of the family of Chisholm of Chisholm. Immediately below this, the river is divided into two streams, which, again unit- ing a littlo further down, enclose a very romantic piece of ground called the Island of Aigas. On this island, which is beautifully wooded with a profusion of oaks and weeping-birches, there has been lately erected, at the expense of the Right Honorable Lord Lovat, a very elegant mansion of the Elizabethan style of architec- ture; in which Messrs Hay Allan Stuart, said to be the only de- scendants of the unfortunate Prince Charles Edward, at present reside. These gentlemen have fitted it up in imitation of the style in which Highland chieftains were wont to decorate their rooms in times of yore. *^ Their spacious rooms are hung around with pikes und guns and bows, i\nd swords and bucklers, which hnve stood against old Scotland's foes. And there in ntate tlicy move about in kilt and tartan hose ; They quaff their quaichs of usquebaugh, and give poor men their brosc, Like true-bred Higliland gentlemen, who love the olden time.*' Eilean Aigas, as this island is generally called, is about three- quarters of a mile in length, and its banks rise abruptly to a pretty considerable height from the rocky channel of the river, which, at the lower end, forms a set of small but beautiful cascades. This place forms the eastern confines of the valley of Strathglass; and the river, now dashing along in an impetuous torrent, is wide- ly different in its aspect from the sluggish stream it appeared above. It plunges through a rocky channel at the bottom of a deep ravine, called the Dream or Druidhm, a place much famed for its romantic scenery. In some places, rocks ascend to a consi- derable elevation from the middle of the channel, and one of them, owing to its conical figure, is called the Sugar Loaf. In other places, the river subsides into deep dark linns, while the rocks give way to green banks, small parts of which have been cultivated : on both sides, the mountains are very steep and rugged, but their harshness is much redeemed by woods of birch and fir, with which they are clothed. The breadth of the valley is scarcely a quarter of a mile, and the roads on either side are at a very considerable height above the bed of the river, which is fringed all along with oak, weeping birches, and alders. The road on the north, or KiU RILTARLITT* 489 morack side, is that generally used by travellers, and is confessedly one of the most romantic drives in the Highlands. On a con- spicuous mountain on the south side, are the remains of a vitrified structure, called Dunfion. Near this, the river enters a chasm between high precipitous cliffs, and cuts a narrow passage through masses of red sandstone and conglomerate, — so narrow, indeed, in some places, that a man in dry seasons can almost leap across. A little onwards, the foaming torrent rushes tumultuously over a ledge of rock, forming what is called the Upper Fall of Kilmorack. It is about 10 or 12 feet in height, and is received into a capaci- ous basin of hard rock ; in the sides of which, fantastic caves and boil- ing caldrons have been formed by the action of the turbulent fluid. The summits of the rocks on either side of this deep ravine are hardly stone-cast distance asunder, and are ornamented with the light airy foliage of the birch and wild cherry ; while a little lower down, many weatherworn stunted trees of different kinds, growing out of fissures in the face of the almost perpendicular rock, rear up their gnarled and fantastic forms in defiance of the impetuosity of the wind. For a considerable way up from the stream, there is no vegetation of any kind to cover the barren nakedness of the rocks, with the exception of a thin sprinkling of marsh mallows and wild geraniums. In some sheltered nooks, however, luxuriant festoons of ivy and honeysuckle give evidence that these plants have been nurtured in a congenial soil. At a little distance below the up- per fall, the river, emancipated from its confinement, glides on smoothly and majestically in a broad stream over a large surface of rock, inequalities in which soon cause it to diverge into several different channels. Tlie rock here comes to an alirupt termination across the whole expanse of the river, which is very broad at this part ; and these different streams, falling from off the rock upon a bed of large rough stones, form what are called the Lower Falls of Kilmorack. These are only about 8 or 10 feet in height It is a very interesting sight to witness the persevering efforts of salmon to spring over these falls. Many succeed in the attempt, but it is not thought worth the expense to fish the river with nets beyond the falls. The former Lovats were in the habit of amus- ing their guests with a very novel spectacle, viz. salmon leaping, of their own accord, into a kettleful of boiling water, where they were speedily cooked for the purpose of satiating the appetites as well as the curiosity of the beholders. Marvellous though it may ap- pear, this extraordinary exhibition was easily effected. Jt was o\^- INVBRNE8S. \\ 490 INVERNESS-SHIRK. served that the fish, in their attempts to clear the Upper Fall, were frequently driven back by the force of the current, and thrown upon a particular rock near the foot, whence they dropped into their native element. Advantage was taken of this well-known fact, and the fish so falling were secured by laying branches of trees on the rock, in such a way as to prevent their sliding back into the river ; and the idea of lighting a fire upon the rock and suspending a kettle over it was afterwards suggested to some fer- tile fancy. No recognized means are now resorted to for taking fish At this place, though poachers may sometimes be observed standing on the brink of the fall, and holding in their hands long poles with hooks or cliques attached to their ends, wherewith they often succeed in seizing the salmon in their attempts to spring over the cascades. There is a cruive on one of the lower falls, whereby a number of fish are intercepted in their progress to the spawning grounds. There is also another cruive about a mile fur- ther down the river, extending from side to side. On the point of a rock on the south side, and overlooking the falls, there has been erected, at the expense of the Right Honour- able Lady Lovat, an elegant seat surmounted by a small dome, with miniature turrets, and having its floor causewayed with small stones of various colours, to represent different figures. A pleasant shady walk, ornamented not only by numerous birches, but with rhododendrons and evergreens planted by Lord Lovat, serves to facilitate the approach of the tourist to this romantic spot, and con- ducts him along the Dream to the island of Aigas. In some parts of it, the spectator is apt to feel dizzy while contemplating the foaming water struggling through the deep abyss ; while, far be- low, he sees the daw, the ring-dove, and the kestril harmoniously dwelling together, and, undisturbed by the overpowering din of the cataract, busily engaged in constructing their nests in the holes and clefts of the rock. The garden belonging to the minister of Kilmorack is picturesquely situated on a rock overhanging the north side, on a crag, at the utmost verge of which, there is a fine summer-house, also fitted up by Lady Lovat, in a style correspond- ing with the cupola already alluded to, on the opposite side. Hydrography^ — The number of lakes in the parish is very great. The largest and most remarkable for their surrounding scenery are Loch Affaric, Lochnaluire, and Ijochbeinnemhian. The ro- mantic grandeur of this section of the parish will bear comparison with that of any part of the Highlands of Scotland. The hills and mountains on either side are ornamented by the presence of RILTABLITY. 49l birch| mountain-ash, and magnificent firs, relics of the old Cale- donian forest. These lakes are very deep, and abound in various kinds of small trout. Loch Affaric is about seven miles in length by one in breadth; Lochnaluire is three miles by one-half; and Lochbeinnemhian, four miles by one. These lakes are joined to- gether by the river Glass, which takes its rise from Loch Affaric, and thence proceeds through the other two lakes, and a consider- able part of the country beyond them in a south-easterly direction. Near Guisachan, however, it takes a different course, and follows the bottom of the valley of Strathglass, which lies in a line from west to east. Probably the best trout in any lake in the parish is that found in Loch Bruiach, which lies somewhat more than four miles due west from the parish church, and is about three miles in circum- ference. There are said to be no less than seven different species of trout found in this loch. A great number of the finest char are caught here in September, when they repair to the shallows for spawning. A small loch, called Lochgarbhreachd, about a quarter of a mile to the west of Loch Bruiach, affords excel- lent sport, though the trout are smaller and inferior in flavour to those caught in the latter. In Loch Neattie, which is about a mile and a-half from Loch Bruiach, there is abundance of pike. Lochgorm, Lochnambreacdearg, and Lochcarnabattauy are, among others too numerous to mention, considered excellent for angling, though some of them require that a person should be able to cast the line skilfully, owing to the quantity of reeds grow- ing on their margins. Geology. — The higher and more inland portions of this parish con- sist of gneiss and granite rocks, chiefly the former, which is frequent- ly traversed by various granite veins of various sizes and different ages, being united to the great central masses of gneiss which con- stitute the bulk of Inverness-shire. The ridges declining towards the north, however, are skirted and overlain by deposits of the * In speaking of these lalces, the Messrs Anderson of Inverness, in their ingeni- ous and valuable work entitled ** Guide to the Highlands and Islands of Scotland/* eloquently but justly remark, that '* they are surrounded by the relics of an enor- mous pine forest ; their islands and their shores are almost impervious from the crowded stems of the trees; and the far-famed scenery of Loch Catrine and the Trossachs sinks into insignificance when contrasted with the similar assemblage of rock, wood, and water displayed in this neighbourhood, on a scale so much more extended and magnificent.— The dun deer of the forest here, in the centre of the isle, ' where hunters there are none,* have marshalled themselves in great numbers : the eagle builds his eyrie unmolested, and soars aloft sole lord of the high and wild scuirs which rise up from the west eoast, and which bewilder the senses of the spectatot Vv^ their multitude and utter blackness and sterility.** 492 INVERNESS-SHIRE. old red sandstone, which compose the great basin of the Moray Frith, and which here rests unconformably on the primary strata. Spurs of the gneiss and granite frequently cut across the sand- stone, thus rendering the scenery more rough and picturesque than it would otherwise be, while the softer rockgives rise to exceedingly beautiful and fertile valleys between them. The sandstone also appears at one time to have risen high above the older rocks, for^ in the south-western parts of the parish, bordering on that of Urquhart, there are very high detached rounded caps and sum- mits, as well as extensive ridges of the old red conglomerate, which, on passing through Glenconvinth, show themselves to have been at one time united both to the Moray Frith basin, and also to the great central deposit of sandstone at Mealfourvonie near Loch- Ness. Indications of extensive denudation everywhere exist ; and, underneath the highest xronglomerate summits, are a series of dark and deep lakes or tarns, which here, as elsewhere in this neighbourhood, are most numerous near the line of junction of the crystalline with the arenaceous deposits. The small forma- tion of serpentine behind Polmally in Glenurquhart stretches up- wards towards the confines of Kiltarlity, and numerous beds of primary granular limestone exist in the district, none of which, however, are extensively worked, it being a matter of general belief, though whether on good grounds I know not, that foreign lime produces a better effect on land than that manufactured from stone found in the same district as the land on which it is used. The most thriving woods and plantations are situated on the sandstone ridges, or on the gravel beds and terraces which extend from their bases to the river Beauly. Specimens of asbestos and rock-crystal are often met with in the hills. There are no mines in this parish, although the taste and colour of many of the springs indicate the presence of iron ore. It is believed that a mine was once worked in the Mains of Strathglass, but there is no certainty as to where it was situated or what the mineral found was, though it most probably was plumbago, of the same quality as that found in the parish of Kilmorack, and which has not as yet been very productive. In the upper part of the district of Strathglass, at Cugie, on the property of Guisachan, there is a cave of considerable dimen- sions ; the access to it is very narrow, owing to the propinquity of (wo shelving rocks. Another cave, in a glen called Corriedow, on the western extremity of the parish, is said to have afforded refuge KILTABLITY. 493 to the unfortunate Prince Charles £dward Stuart for some days. There is a cave in the rocks of Easter Main of considerable size. Sail. — The soil in the parish is, generally speaking, thin and light. There is not much good land throughout the whole of it. The most of the soil is of a reddish colour and very hard. It is found to be very difficult to trench it, from the number of stones which it contains, and it requires a great quantity of lime and manure ere a good crop can be raised from it. The expense of taking in new land may be estimated at about L. 12 per acre, but this in- cludes liming, clearing it of stones, &c. The expense of trenching it is generally about L. 8 per acre. There is always some com- pensation given to the tenant, by the proprietor, for reclaimed land. The eastern or lower part of the parish is more fertile than the upper, where, owing to the mossy nature of the soil, the crops at an early stage of their growth acquire a purplish sickly appear- ance. This parish suffers much in a dry season, from the natural dryness of the soil, as well as from the small supply of moisture in the air. The average rent of arable land in the parish may be stated at L. 1, 10s, per acre. Zoology. — The quadrupeds are such as are common to the neigh- bouring parishes. The hedgehog and squirrel have not yet reach- ed this district. The cross-bill breeds in the pine forests, and re- mains during the whole year. — The fishes in the lakes and rivers are such as are common to this part of the country, and require no par- ticular enumeration. Botany. — Plants found in the parish of Kiltarlity. — Veronica alpina Galium montanum Solanum Dulcamara Anagallis Plantago major Erythraaa centauriura Cbamsdrys Alchemilla vulgaris Hedera Helix Pinguicula vulgaris alpina Vinca minor Lemna minor Ilex anguifolium Ulmus campestris Antboxanthum odoratum Sagina procumbens Gentlana campestris Valeriana officinalis Myosotis palustris Sanicula Europea Iris Pseudacorus Anchusa sempervirens Viburnum Lantana Scirpus capspitosus Pulmonaria officinalis Sambucus Ebulus Eriophorum alpinum Sjrmpbytum tuberosum Statice Armeria vaginatum Ecbium vulgare Parnassia palustris angustifolium Primula vulgaris Drosera rotundifolia Nardus stricta farinosa .Myosurus minimb Phleum pratense Menyanihes trifoliata Galanthus nivalis Arundo Phragmites Lysimachla vulgaris Hyacinthus non-scriptus Briza media Anagalis arvensis Convallaria majalis Ilordeum pratense Azalea procumbens Lusula maxima Montia fontana Campanula rapunculoides pilosa Scabiosa succisa Viola canina Oxyria reniformis Asperula odorata tricolor Rumex aquaticus Galium verum Verbucum Thapsus Alisma Plantago 494 INVBRNES8-SHIRE. TrienUlis Europaet Epilobium angustifolium Vaccinium myrtillus Titis-Idsft oxycoccos Erica cinerea Tetralix Calluna vulgaris Polygonum bistorta viviparum Adoxa moscbateilina Arbutus alpina uva ursi Pyrola rotundifolia media minor CbrysoBplenium oppositifo- lium Saxifraga niTalis aizoides granulata hy|)noidc8 Silene inflata Stellaria neraorum bolostca Arenaria vema Sedum Telephium album Oxalis Acetosella Lychnis Flos cuculi dioica Spergula arvensis Agrimonia Eupatoria Reseda lutcola Euphorbia peplus Sempcnrivum tectorum Prunus podns Crauegus Oxyacaotha Spirea ulmaria Rosa rubiginosa canina Rubus idanis fhioticosQs saxatalis Chamannorus Fragaria vesca Potentilla anserina Tormentilla officinale Geum urbanum Dryas octopctala Comarum palustre Nymphflea alba Nupl^ar lutea Anemone nemorosa Thalictrum alpinum Ranunculus aquatilis flammula repens C!aUha palustris Ajuga rvptins Mciitlm hirsuta Glechoma hederacm Lam turn album Ballota nigra Thjrmus serpyllum Prunella vulgaris Euphrasia officinalis Melampyrum pratense Lathrsea squamaria Pcdicularis pahistris Scrophularia aquatica Digitalis purpurea Thlaspi arvense Cardamine pratensis hirsuta Arabia hispida Thaliana Nasturtium officinale amphibium Sinapis arvensis Geranium sylvaticum Robertianum Malva sylvestris Fumaria officinalis caprcolata Polygala vulgaris Genista scoparia Anglica Ulex Europsus Ononis arvensis Orobus tuberosus sylvaticus Lathyrus pratensii Vicia sylvatica cracca lutea Trifolium officinale repens pratense minus Lotus corniculatus Hypericum perforatum humifusum pulchrum Elodes Leontodon Taraxacum Hieracium alpinum pilosella Arctium Lappa Carduus nutans Marianus Onopcrdum acanthium Tanacctum vulgare Gnaphalium dioicum sylvaticum Tussilago farfara Senecio vulgaris viscosus sylvaticus aquaticus Bellis percnnis Chrysanthemum Leucan- themum Chrysanthemum segetum Fyrethrum Parthenium Matricaria chamomilla Achillea Ptarmica Millefolium Centaurea mgn cyaoua Orchis morio masmla latifiilia maculata Gymnadenia conop«e« Habenaria albida bilblia Listera ovata cordata nidus aris 2Samiichellia palustris Callitridie aquaUca Sparganium ramosiuiB simplex natans Carex dioica stellulata panicea Alnus glutinosus Urtica urens dioica Quercus robur Fagus sylvatica Betula alba Carpinus Betulus Corylus avellana Pinus sylvestris Salix rubra nigra berbaeea arenaria repens cinerea riminalis Empetrum nignim Myrica gale Populus alba Rbodiola rosea Mercurialis perennis Juniperus comnrania Taxus baccata FaxMs. Polypodium vulgare Aspidium lonchitb Thelypteria dilatatum Asplenium viride ruta mururia Scolopendrium vulgare Pteris cri^M Blecbnum boreale Hymenophyllum Tun- bridgcnse Botrychium Lunaria Lycopodium davatum alpinum selago Equisetum arvense palustre Mossxs. Sphagnum obtusifoUum KILTARLITY. 495 Sphagnum aoutifolium Hypnum riparlum Hypnum nitens Polytrichum undulatum undulatum alopecurum Tortula muralis medium striatum Didymodon purpureum molle palustre Funaria hygrometrica stramineura Ortbotrichum anomalum ruieaoen* Wood. — Strathglass, of old, was mostly altogether covered with wood, of which, with the exception of the forest 'of Cugie, on* the property of Guisachan, but few living remains now exist through- out the parish, though traces of it are everywhere to be met with in the peat mosses, where the poorer peasantry dig up great num- bers of the trunks, which, being very resinous, afford them a cheap and tolerably good light, during the long winter evenings. Some of the old firs in the forest of Cugie are immensely large, being between sixty and seventy feet in height, and sixteen feet in girth. The Protector Cromwell used a great quantity of timber from Strathglass, in the construction of his fortifications at Inverness, and, in fact, until within late years, wood was the only article ex- ported from the parish, many parts of which, owing to the gravelly nature of the soil, seem peculiarly adapted for its growth. Larch thrives amazingly, and it is not uncommon to find specimens of this valuable wood, which, at forty years of age, measure 30, and at fifteen years, measure 12 cubic feet; and a blemish is rarely found in this kind of timber. The ash, though slow in arriving at mar turity, is of excellent quality. Natural fir fetches at the rate of Is. 6d. per cubic foot when manufactured ; planted fir, 6d per cu** bic foot not manufactured ; do. do. Is. per do. when manufacture ed ; ash and oak generally sell at 2s. per cubic foot in the tree ; birch for barrel staves fetches L. 4, 4s. per thousand ; elm, beech, and plane tree, sell at Is. 6d. per cubic foot in the tree ; birch and oak bark average L. 6 per ton. The common Scotch fir is not planted so much as formerly, the preference being now decidedly in favour of larch, as not only more marketable bu^ of quicker growth. There are many new plantations in the parish, and the different heritors, of late years, pay much more attention than they were wont to do, to periodical and regular thinnings, being convinced that the value of their woods is much increased by this process. U. — Civil History. Parochial Register §» — The only public records of any kind kept in the parish, are those of births and marriages. The former be** gins in 1714, and the latter in 1812 ; but though the former was kept for the whcrle of the period since 1714, it is to be regretted 49f3 INVKRNCSS-SUlftE. that the entries were Dot by any means regularly made, and this circumstance is probably as much oWfng to a strong prejudice which obtained against it in the minds of the people, as fix>ai any remissness or neglect on the part of the clerk. Antiquities, — There are many Druidical remains in the parish, and also some ritriBed forts (supposed by most people to be where beacon fires used to be lighted in ancient times) : but I am not aware that any thing of a peculiarly interesting nature has ewer been discovered in or about them. There are three or four of the ^^ Druidical temples" within a mile of the parish church. Mansion-houses, — Beaufort Castle, the residence of the Right Honourable Lord Lovat, is a large and commodious but very plain- looking building, having been originally intended only as a resi- dence for the Government factor, during the time that the Lovat estate lay under forfeiture ; and, although the present chief of the clan Fraser, some time ago, had it in contemplation to erect a more magnificent habitation, the project appears to have been abandoned, at least for the present* It stands on the site of the old fortress of Beaufort or Downie ; and mention is made of it in Scottish story, so early as the era of Alexander I., when it sustained a regular siege by the royal troops, and the trenches theil made are still visible. It was also seized by Oliver Cromwell, and the citadel blown up ; and immediately after the battle at CuUo- den, it was burnt and razed to the ground by the Duke of Cum- berland's army, and the flames of the conflagration were witnessed by Simon, Lord Lovat, from a high mountain near Loch Muilie^ in Glenstratbfarrar, in which is a small island, whither he and a few faithful adherents had retreated. The accommodations of the fortress, at this time, appear to have been very limited indeed ; for Lord Lovat, as related by his own chronicler, " received company and dined with them in the same room in which he slept. His lady*s sole apartment was her bedchamber, and the only provision for lodging the domestics and the numerous herd of retainers was a quantity of straw on the four lower rooms of the tower ; some- times above 400 persons were kennelled here." It is said, that the present is the twelfth edifice which has been erected on the same site, and, indeed, a more eligible and delightful situation could not be pitched upon for the chieftain's residence. It commands an extensive view of the whole of the Aird or Fraser country, and the Beauly Frith. In front of the mansion, there are extensive parks» studded with large trees of various kinds, and a very considerable KILTARLITY. 407 extent of the ground in the vicinity of the castle has been taste* fully laid out as a rosary ancT flower-garden by the Right Honour- able Lady Lovat, Family of Froier of Lovat — Before the Frasers came into possession of them, the estates of Lovat, as also a great part of Stratherric and Abertarff, belonged to a very powerful fa- mily of the name of Bizzet. The Frasers appear to have come to Inverness-shire about the end of the thirteenth century, from the counties of Peebles and Tweeddale, in the former or latter of which the ruins of their principal residence, Castle Fraser, may still be seen. The prevalence of the name Fraser in this district is accounted for, by a tradition that the Biz* zets were induced, from various motives, to assume it instead of their own, on the occasion of the accession of the Fraser family to the estate. Be that as it may, there are certainly hardly any Biz* zets now to be met with in this country. The late Mr Fraser of Lovat died without issue, and the pro- perty (an entailed one) descended to a distant branch, possessing the estate of Strichen in Aberdeenshire. The present proprie* tor is the principal heritor of this parish, and was raised to the Peerage in 1837. He also possesses extensive lands in several of the surrounding parishes, and is much esteemed by his tenantry as a kind and considerate landlord. The family resides almost al- ways in the country, and his Lordship, by annually expending im- mense sums in improving and adorning his estate, provides employ- ment for a great number of the peasantry, who, were this not the case, might be obliged to migrate elsewhere in search of a livelihood. At the same time that the fact speaks volumes for the unosten- tatious charity, and active benevolence of Lady Lovat, it is very gratifying to have it to state, that the more necessitous of the poor in the parish are, by the directions and at the expense of this amiable lady, liberally supplied with nourishing food and warm clothing, and the best steps adopted for having their other wants relieved so soon as made known, llie number of poor privately comforted in this way is very considerable. The present family of Lovat professes the Roman Catholic reli- gion, and Lady Lovat is descended of one of the oldest and high- est Roman Catholic families in England, being daughter to Lord Stafford. Belladrum.'-^ About a mile southward from Beaufort, lies the ele- gant mansion house of Belladrum. It b about three or four hundred 498 INVERNESS-SHIRE. yards from the public road, which here serves as the boundary be- tween the two estates ; but the nuiAerous trees in the surround- ing pleasure-grounds are so disposed, that the passing traveller can hardly catch a glimpse of it. The house is quite a modern one, and is furnished in a most splendid manner. It was built at a very considerable expense by the late proprietor, James Fraser, Esq., who also erected in the neighbourhood a farm-steading of corresponding magnificence. The property was purchased by John Stewart, Esq. of Carnousie, for the sum of L. 80,000. For a great many years past, much care has been observed in lay- ing out the grounds and woods in the neighbourhood. The gar- dens, orchards, and shrubberies, together with the hot-houses and green-houses, are admirably kept, and evidences of a superior ' taste are every where discernible. A great part of the property is covered with valuable timber, consisting principally of Scotch fir and larch. The portions already disposed of and cut down have yielded a handsome sum to the present owner, who pays much at- tention to the thinning and proper management of his forests; and by his directions, the blanks caused by the cutting are in the course of being planted with timber of a different sort from that which formerly grew on the same- soil. The rental of the Bel- ladrum estate is supposed to be about L. 1600; and a considera* ble part of it is considered to be improvable. The most of it, however, consists of hilly pasture ground, abounding in various sorts of game, as roe, hare, black-game, grouse, partridge, &e. The lakes and marshes on the property, though not much worth for the angling to be got on them, are resorted to by various kinds of water-fowl. The number of acres on this estate is 4300, be- ing composed of about 700 acres of arable, 2600 acres of pasture^ and about 1000 acres under wood. Mr Stewart and his family ge« nerally reside for some months in the year at Beiladrum, where their warm and active benevolence command the esteem and re- spect of all around them. III. — Population. Population in 1801, - 2586 iSU, - 2601 1821, . 2429 18S1, . 2715 1841, - 2881.-dnal6s, 1329; females, 1552. The number of inhabited houses b 6SD. By a census taken under the direction of th» minister, in 1887, the population was estimated at 2669. 4 KILTABLITT. 499 Belonging to the EsUblisbed Cburch, . • . 2166 Do. do. of the poor and working classes, 1736 Belonging to other denominationty - - ' - 488 Do do. of the poor and working classes, - 970 Total in the parish of the poor and working population, • 2106 Do* those in affluent or comfortable circuxnsianceiy 553 2669 2669 Thus showing that fully three-fourths of the entire population were, at that time, of the poor or labouring classes, and I am of opinion that the proportions are still about the same. The only Dissenters in the parish are Roman Catholics. The language usually spoken is the Gaelic, but it is losing gf^o^^d rapidly. IV, — Industry Labourers receive from Is. to Is. 6d., and tradesmen from 2s. to ds. per day. Women earn Is. per day during the harvest season, but only receive from 6d. to 9d. per day for field labour, during the rest of the year. ' Farm-servants, besides a fair allowance of victual and fuel, receive from L. 8 to L. 12 per annum, accord- ing to their character and qualifications. Housemaids and other female domestics receive, on an average, firom L. 3 to L. 4 per an- num ; few of them obtain so much as L. 4, 10s. Agriculture has made rapid progress here within the last twenty years, and due attention is now paid to liming, draining, and the most approved rotation in cropping. To illustrate the rapid change which has taken place in Strath- glass within the last few years, I may mention that about eight years ago, when the existing leases were granted, the arable land would not average above 10s. per acre ; but now that such effec- tive measures have been resorted to for the prevention of smug- gling, the same land may be considered worth at least L. 1 per acre. V. — Parochial Economy. The. nearest post-ofiice is at the village of Beauly, which is about two miles from the eastern boundary of the parish, but there is a runner who daily traverses a great part of the parish, and leaves the letters at centrical receiving-houses. Ecclesiastical 5^a^^.— The parish church, which was built in 1829, is only about three miles from the eastern extremity of the parish, so that, unless the mission comprehended the district of Strathglass, its situation might be justly considered as extremely inconvenient for the parishioners at large. It is built on the same 500 INVEUNKSS-SHlRli:. foundation as the former church, which was erected in 1763, and, being on a rising ground in the midst of a clump of tall trees, its position is much admired. The surrounding ground has not been long in use as a place of sepulture, — the late incumbent, Dr Bayne, having been the first who was interred in it. The number of sit- tings in the church is about 800. The late Chisholm of Chisholm, who represented this county in Parliament for several years, and who was likewise much and deservedly esteemed, not only for his exemplary piety, but for his consistent and zealous support of the cause of Protestanism, short- ly before his death built at Erchless a very neat church in con- nection with the Establishment. In this church, which is capable of accommodating about 400 people, there is preaching regularly, the services of a clergyman being secured and paid for by The Chis- holm, whose liberality in this as well as in many other respects, is worthy of much commendation. The sittings in these churches are all free. The parishioners are decidedly a church-going people, and the several places of worship are respectably attended. The manse is very large and commodious, and was built in 1838. The glebe is also extensive, being nearly equal to 50 acres, but it is not valuable, the soil being very thin and poor. Upwards of the half of it is arable, and the annual value of the whole may be nearly L. 30. The stipend is L. 204, 10s. 8|d. in' money; 17 bolls, 1 firlot, and three pecks of oatmeal ; and 19 bolls, 1 peck, and 1 lippy, of barley, including allowance for communion elements. The value of the victual part varies according to the fiars prices ; but the sti- pend may be estimated at about L. 240, and it is wholly derivable from parsonage-teinds. The only privilege which the incumbent has, is that of cutting peats. The mission of Strathglass, to which reference is made above, comprehends not only the upper portion of the parish of Kiltarli- ty, but also that of Kilmorack, and the missionary preaches at three different stations. His income is about L. 80, of which he receives L. 60 from the Committee on the Royal Bounty, and the other L. 20 are contributed by his hearers. Nearly one^half of the population of the mission district belongs to the Roman Catholic faith. A Roman Catholic congregation has been established in the parish, for about fifteen or sixteen years, and consists of from 700 KILTARLITY. 501 to 800 individuals, of whom, however, a large proportion belongs to other parishes. There is a catechist in the parish, who is supported by volun- tary contribution. The number of communicants belonging to the Establishment is about 120.* Poor, — 'Vhe average amount annually expended on the poor is about L. 25, of which sum there arises from church collections about L. 16. The number of individuals deriving aid from the poor's roll is 77. The people have the greatest repugnance to apply for parochial aid, and there are many instances where they have submitted to the most abject penury and distress, rather than incur the degra- dation of becoming mendicants, or even soliciting such trifling as- sistance as the parochial funds could afford to give them. Education. — The number of schools in this parish is seven, and the branches generally taught in them are, reading, writing, and arithmetic, though in one or two of them a boy occasionally may be found studying the dead languages. The people appear to be alive to the benefits of a plain common education. There are no parts of the parish so distant as to prevent attendance at one or other of the schools. The average number in each is as follows : Kiltarlity, parish school, . • • . . 80 Mauld* do. ... . . 40 Knockfin, do. . . . • . 40 Fanellan, Assembly school, . . . .70 Bog; supported by individual subscription, ... 40 Glenconvinth, do do. ... . 60 Female school at Kiltarlityi endowed by the Ijtight Honourable Lady Lovat, 90 Average number of children in the parish attending school, . 360 The salary of the teacher in the principal parish school, (which is that of Kiltarlity,) is L. 25, 16s., and the fees may amount to from L.15 to L.20 annually. The scale of fees is much the same in the whole of these schools. The salary in each of the other two parochial schools, which have only been recently established, is L.12, 18s. ; but The Chisholm has liberally made up their sa- laries to L. 25. The continuance of this boon, however, is quite voluntary on the part of The Chisholm, though it is not likely that * Polrofi.-— Lord Lovat had the patronage of this as vrell as many other parishes, in his gift, until about four years ago, when he transferred this right of presentation to Hercules Scott, Esq. Professor of Moral Philosophy at King's College of Aber- deen. It is supposed that this was done in order to do away with any objections which might arise, in consequence of I^rd Lovat*s exercising his right of presenta- tion, he being of a different persuasion. 502 INVERNESS*SHIRE. it will be withdrawn, so long as he is satisfied that the duties of the offices are efficiently discharged. The female school was erected about twelve years ago by Lady Lovat, who gives the mistress a salary of L.15 per annum. The want of such a school as this was much felt, and it has been productive of great good. The building is a very neat and taste- ful structure, and, besides the school-room, includes ample accom- modation for the teacher. Irms. — There are only two or three inns in the whole parish, and even these are of an inferior description, and not much fre- quented. Whisky is the principal liquor retailed; malt liquor being seldom called for, and, indeed, not often to be had, if re- quired. Fud. — The fuel in general use is peat, and no charge whatever is made by the land-owners for the privilege of cutting it, which has been exercised, for time immemorial, by the tenantry and cot- tars on the several properties. £nglish coal is also used by those who can afford to purchase it, and abundance of this mineral can generally be got at Beauly, at prices varying from Is. 8d. to 2s. per barrel. Miscellaneous Observations. Generally, and in conclusion, I may remark that in Strathglass, sheep-farming is carried on to a considerable extent, and that with less risk than in most other Highland districts, owing to the excel- lent shelter which is afforded to the flocks in winter, by the natu- ral wood, with which the sheep-walks abound. The leases, for the most part, are too short to induce the tenantry to incur the ex- pense of planting, and the proprietors are only now becoming aware of the immense importance of warmth and shelter to almost all kinds of animals. Not half so much is lost by vermin now as formerly, owing to the number of keepers employed to preserve the game ; and, from the same cause, that grouse and ptarmigan are rapidly encreasing in number, few of the sheep or lambs are lost, and the rents, as a necessary consequence, must soon improve and amply repay the proprietors for the expense to which they may be put. It is matter of pride among the natives of the parish to have it in their power to say that, among the resident heritors, there are the honoured chieftains of two ancient and most respectable High- land clans. December 1841. PARISH OF Kir.MONIVAIG.* PRESBYTERY OF ABERTARFF, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. JOHN M*INTYRE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent and Boundaries. — The length of this parish from south to north, is about 60 miles, and its greatest breadth, 20. It is bounded by the parish of Kilmalie on the west ; by Fortingal on the south-east ; by Laggan on the east ; by Glenelg and Kintail on the north ; and by Boleskine on the north-east Mountains. — This is the most mountainous parish perhaps in the kingdom. The lofty range from Glennevis on the west ex- tends eastward a distance of nearly twenty miles, and is from ten to fifteen miles in breadth. At the western end of this range, is the lofty Bennevis, arising majestically about 4370 feet above the level of the sea. It has tremendous precipices where the eagle builds his eyrie, and sets at defiance the power and ingenuity of man to disturb his habitation. It consists for the most part of fine brown porphyry. It contains plutonic rocks at the very top, and in some parts red granite, of such a beautiful grain as to be capable of the finest polish, and to be unmatched by any in any part of the world. It is supposed to contain also veins of silver. In the fissures of this mountain, the snow has remained from the remotest ages. Some other peaks of this range rise considerably more than 4000 feet above the level of the sea.t * From notes furnished by the Rev. Donald Cameron, Laggan, and others. t The most splendid riew is obtained from the top of Benneris on a clear day. Persons that attempt the ascent without a guide often find themselves in awkward and sometimes in perilous situations. A few years ago, the Duchess of Buccleuch, while sojourning in this vicinity, with her brother-in-law. Lord John Scott, and others, set out accompanied only with a guide, on an excursion to the summit. They reached their destination in safety ; but in returning, night overtook them, and they lost their way. The party left behind felt alarmed for her Grace's safety, and re- solved on setting out in search of her. They^pplied to John McDonald, Esq. of the Bennevis distillery for his aid in this emergency. His ingenuity was not long in finding « plan, likely to discover the Duchess if she was alive, and the result proved successful. He took with him a large bell ; and with this, he and his party set off 604 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Bennevis and its satellites to the east, form the southern side or section of Glenspean. This glen commences about the foot of Ben- nevis, and extends to the north of High Bridge, about ten miles. It gradually becomes narrower for fourteen miles, until a little above Keppoch, the whole breadth is occupied by the bed of the rapid river Spean. Three miles above that, it begins again to ex- pand ; and it terminates at the west end of Loch Laggan. The hills forming the northern boundaries of this glen are not so ma- jestic, nor so continuous as those on the south side. Near the centre, it is joined by Glenroy. This glen rises in a north-east di- rection, and terminates at the confines of the parish of Laggan. The two sides of Glenroy are formed of pretty high hills. Through a part of this parish runs the great Caledonian glen, from the west end of Loch Lochy to the east end of Loch Oich, a distance of nearly fifteen miles. Between these two lakes a portion of the Caledonian Canal is cut for ^bout three miles. On each side this glen are lofty mountains rising precipitously from their base. Near- ly halfway between Inverness and Fort- William, Glenroy branches off to the north, at right angles from the great Caledonian Glen already mentioned, and joins Glenquoich ; and at its north-western extremity, it joins the district of Knoidart. Sheep and Sheep-walks. — The hills and glens of this parish af- ford the most excellent pasture for sheep and black-cattle, — par- ticularly the former. It is supposed that there are upwards of 100,000 sheep reared in this parish every year. Some of the sheep farms are upwards of 100 square miles in extent. Mr Cameron, Carychvilly, the most extensive grazier in the north, stated a few years ago, that the preceding year he had clipped upwards of 37,000 sheep. Some of his farms, however, are situated in other parishes. Mr Greig of Tullach, and the Messrs M*Donell of Keppoch, are supposed to have each near 100 square miles under sheep ; the one on the north, and the other on the south banks of the Spean. Gl nquoich at one time paid about L.1200 of yearly rent, and could graze perhaps 10,000 sheep, besides a proportionate number of black-cattle. Perhaps there is no part of the Highlands where nature has done more, and landlords so little, for the benefit of the inhabit- in the direction which they supposed the Duchesn to have taken. The sound of the bell reverberating against the rocks, reached the delighted ears of her Grace ; and she was thus ultimately rescued from the effects of her Sabbnth dny's excursion. 3 KILMONIVAIO. 505 ants, as some parts of the parish of Kilmonivaig. In Glenspean alone, there are upwards of 40,000 acres of excellent soil, which, by the application of skill and capital, could be brought into cul- tivation. Thus, in the course of thirty years, the value of land niight be increased tenfold. The character might be improved, and so might the habits, comforts, and morals of the inhabitants. Under a proper system of management, the people would have strong inducements to active exertion ; and the present practice of spending a great part of their time in idleness, or in balls, ra£3esy shinty-matches, and whisky shops, would disappear. An improv- ed system of husbandry, introduced into Lochaber, would be of signal benefit to a great portion of the Highlands. It would render meal and potatoes plentiful, and keep in the country the money sent out of it every year to procure these necessaries of life. Great quantities of butcher-meat could be reared, and easily sent to the Glasgow and Liverpool markets by means of the steam-boats. Ireland is not the only country that suffers from the system of middlemen and absenteeism. Rivers, — Glenspean, which constitutes the principal part of this parish, is in shape somewhat like an hour-glass. At the north-east corner it receives the Speap from Lochlaggan. About a quarter of a mile after it leaves the lake, it receives the Gulbin from the south. Three streams rise at the side of Benalder, in the parish of Laggan, within a few yards of each other. The one travels east and north for ten or twelve miles, and then turns west, and empties itself in Lochlaggan. In this locality, it is called the Pattak. The other runs out of the same black hillock, and, after travelling south for many miles, and receiving many tributary streamlets, it turns north ; and at a place called Moy, under the name of Gulbin, it meets the Pattak, coming out of Lochlaggan, transformed into the Spean. From the south-west angle of Glen- spean comes the river Treig. This river rises at the south side of Bennevis. It flows eastward to Lochtreig, then travels north, and meets the Spean, near to where the glen becomes narrow. It flows then north-west, till it joins the Lochy, at Mucomer, and after rising at the one side of Bennevis, and travelling upwards of fifty miles, it falls into the sea at Fort- William. Three mountain streams afford excellent trout-fishing. The only river of note in this parish besides the Spean is the Garry. Parallel roads ofGUnroy. — The following account of these ce- lebrated indented lines is taken from the Edinburgh Philosophi- INVKRNESS. K k 506 INVERNESS'SUIUE. cal Journal, Vol. xxvii. They are sit jated in Glenroy, a lateral branch of the larger Glen Spean, about ten miles to the north of Fort- William. Glenroy is about eleven miles in length, and one mile in breadth, with pretty sleep sides. The stream Spean falls into the river Lochy, near Loch Lochy, and the Roy falls into the Spean, five miles eastward. On both sides of Glenroy, there are three narrow terraces or roads, formed of gravel and clay, called the " Parallel roads." They project several feet from the sloping side of the mountain, forming three slightly marked lines along the valley from end to end, and exactly parallel to each other. At some parts they are not to be seen, such as when they cross the bare hard rock, where loose m\ or gravel would not rest, and where the surface of the bill is gently inclined, because the slope there coincides with that of the allu- vial cover. Very often the appearance is so faint, that a spectator may find himself standing on one without being aware of its exist- ence ; but, at other parts, they swell out into pretty broad terraces, and, what seemed obscure to a spectator iu juxtaposition with it, becomes more distinct when seen from the opposite side of the valley, where the eye takes in the line for a length of some miles. Each of these terraces, by the test of the level, have been found not only horizontal in their individual bearing longitudinally, but also horizontal as regards the corresponding terrace on the oppo« site side. The first or lowest terrace is 972 feet above the level ef the sea ; the second is 1 184 feet, while the third is 1266 feet. The base of the terraces have an inclination towards the centre of the valley. In the valley of Glen Gloy, in the vicinity, which is separated by a ridge of high ground of about half a mile thick, there is a terrace twelve feet higher than the highest in the for- mer, or 1278 feet above the sea level, but none lower. There is a remnant of a similar terrace at Kilfinnan, four miles northward, which is 40 feet higher than the highest in Glenroy, or 1806 feet above the surface of the sea. The three terraces of Glen* roy follow the line of the valley down to its junction with Glen Spean, passing into all its sinuosities and recesses. Here two of them disappear ; but the lowest continues its course up to the head of Glen Spean, and down nearly to its mouth, over a space of twenty miles, always preserving the same level. Portions of terraces have also been traced on the sides of the valley of the Spey, many miles eastward of those just described, and at a height of about 800 feet. Sir Thomas Dick Lauder and Dr MacuU KILMONIVAIQ. 507 loch,* who both about the same time described these roads, account for their formation thus : In lochs which have steep banks covered with somewhat loose materials, rains and storms hurry down earth and stones, which have their motion checked when thev reach the waters, and then form a projecting ledge or shelf, which is nearly on a level with its littoral surface, and slopes gradually onwards below its water, so that if the loch were partially drained a circu- lar terrace would thus be left at its former margin. If a second and third drainage took place at certain intervals,* other terraces would thus be formed till the whole waters were evacuated. It has been supposed, then, that Glenroy, Glen Gloy, and Glen Spean, originally formed distinct lochs, each closed in by a barrier at its end ; that the barrier at Glenroy gave way partially, so that the waters of the loch rushed out to a certain extent, and left the highest terrace ; succeeding evacuations formed the second and third terraces in a similar manner, till at last the loch was com- pletely emptied. At the period of the formation of the lowest terrace, it is supposed Glenroy and Spean formed one continue ous line of water, because the same terrace extends along the side of Glen Spean for twenty miles, while no trace of the higher ter- races are found in the latter. Glen Gloy is supposed to have formed a distinct loch, with the water elevated twelve feet above the others, when, its barrier giving way, it was at once emptied without the formation of any more terraces. It must be ad- mitted, however, that no vestiges of terraces or indications in the strata, are now to be found. Mr Darwin has lately pro- posed another theory : that the terraces are sea-beaches, form* ed at the period when the now elevated land constituted a low and level bay* of the ocean, and that the periodical elevation of this land gave time for the formation of two or three littoral indentations. Mr Darwin illustrates his theory by analogous phenomena in Peru« 11. — Civil History. Antiquities. — Inverlochy Castle, — Many stories are told, that as- sign a great antiquity to this castle. But since certain documents were brought to light by the late Donald Gregory, author of the History of the Western Islands, its claims to high antiquity have been reduced, as it appears to have been in still an unfinished state in the time of Charles IL Near this castle, was fought what • Transactions of Royal Society of Edin. Vol. ii. Transactions of Geological Society of London, Vol. iv. 1st Series. 508 INVERNESS-SHIRE* teas called a bloody battle, between Montrose and Argyld, in the year 1645. At that time, the population of Lochaber was enthu- siastically loyal to the unfortunate Charles. Argyle and an army of Covenanters went to Lochaber, to humble the adherents of the Royal cause, and in search of Montrose, who was with an army in the vicinity. Argyle's men appear to have committed some ex- cesses, and to have burned some houses, which roused the ire of John McDonald, alias Ian Lorn, the poet, who set off, as is report* ed, to make his complaint, and to lay the grievances of his coun* try before Montrose. The Marquis was not disposed to give heed to the poet ; but Alexander McDonald, the son of Colkitto, who acted as second in command to Montrose, said, with an Irish oath, ^' T will go, and see what is wrong in McDonald's country." Montrose gave him a wing of the army. They kept the ridge of the hill from Fort Augustus, where Ian Lom overtook them, to a farm on the braes of Lochaber, where Alexander McDonald ex- pected to see the devastations described by Ian Lom. But no such devastations appearing, Ian Lom was considered as a spy, and was in danger of having his poetical career brought to a tragical end on a tree by the son of Colkitto, when he pleaded that they should go to the next farm, then at a short distance, and if they did not see his account verified, they might do with him as they pleased. Fortunately for Ian, the houses there were reduced to ashes ; on seeing which, the son of Colkitto, with another Irish oath, said, ** Ho, ho, the smell or track of the Badachs is here" (Tha feu* leadh nam bodacha so.) They then followed Ian Lom, who con- ducted them quietly to the foot of Bennevis at night In the morning, Argyle's army, never dreaming that an army was near them, was attacked, and routed with great slaughter. Alexander McDonald pursued the fugitives for six miles towards the head of Lochleven. And a stone was placed, which even at this day marks the spot where Montrose's men stopped from the pursuit of the Campbells. It is said that this stone still remains as a monument of Highland loyalty. At the east end of Lochlochy, another battle was fought between the Frasers and a branch of the McDonalds. This skirmish took place on a hot day in summer, and the combatants on both sides stripped to their shirts. From this circumstance the battle was called la blar beine^ or the battle of the shirts. The Frasers on that day were almost all destroyed. The last feudal battle fought in Scotland between two Highland 3 KILMONlVAtG« 509 factions was fought near Keppoch, in the centre of this parish, at a place called Mulray. The circumstances that led to this bat- tle appear to have been the following. M'Intosh of Mcintosh possessed the lands of Keppoch, along with other lands in the vi- cinity. M^Ronald of Keppoch occupied this farm of Keppoch, as did his ancestors for many generations, partly by force, and partly by the connivance, and perhaps the weakness of the M'Intosh. M^ntosh would have been satisfied, it appears, with a slender ac-* knowledgement of his superiority; but this M'Ronald had too much Highland spirit to yield. After various fruitless negociations, M'ln- tosh was resolved to have recourse to the ultima ratio with his re- fractory vassal at Keppoch. He collected some hundreds of his clan, and, proposing to steal unawares on M^Ronald, he procured a com*- panyof regular troops commanded by Captain M'Kenzie of Sud- dy, to aid him in his expedition. But M^Rouald, being apprised of his intentions, collected his own retainers, and met his feudal lord at the mouth of Glenroy. There at Mulray a most sangui- nary engagement took place. The M'Intoshes were routed ; and Mcintosh himself was taken prisoner. Eminent Men. — Ian Lom, already alluded to, resided in this parish. He had a poetical genius of a very high order. His songs translated into English would exhibit a striking picture of the period in which he lived. He was, however, a frenzied Jacobite. He was when a very young man at the battle of Inverlochy in 1645, although he did not mingle in the conflict. It is asserted that the son of Colkitto said to him on the eve of the battle — " John, will you go with us?" " No, I shall be a spectator of your prowess, and if you do well to-day, I will tell it as well as I can to your praise to-mor- row." He did so no doubt, and in the song he composed on the occasion, he luxuriates like a fiend on the anticipated music of the widows and orphans of the Campbells in Argyleshire weeping and clapping their hands in agony over the fate of their husbands and fathers. John survived the union of the two kingdoms, and compos- ed a song against the measure. In the intervening period, he was en- gaged in various exploits, some of which led to tragical results. It is reported that some one procured him the office of Gaelic Poet Laureate to King Charles II., — an office which, I believe, died with himself. We find John describe in a song the march of Dundee from Lochaber to Athole in the year 1689, the year after the Revolu- tion. He appears to have been present at the battle of Killie- crankie, which he describes in a song, composed on the occasion, 510 INVERNESS-SHIRE. in such a manner as an eye-witness alone could describe it He la- ments the slaughter of the McDonalds by McKay's musketry at the commencement of the action ; and speaks in terms of bitter scorn of the cowardly expedient of blowing out heroes brains by such wretched missiles as leaden balls. He mentions also, that it was iu the pursuit that Dundee was killed. Ian Lom's songs more powerfully influenced the minds of his countrymen than all the legislation which was at that time employ- ed for that purpose. Children were taught to lisp them. They were sung in the family circle on long winter evenings, and at weddings, lykewakes, raffles, fairs, and in every company. They attributed to the Stewarts and their adherents the most exalted virtues ; and the opponents of that family they represented as in- carnate fiends. In the year 1 745, the parish of Kilmonivaig, and that track of ground lying between its eastern boundaries, and the west coast, was called *' the cradle of the rebellion." Ancf this was the very locality where the songs of Ian Lom and other Jacobite bards were allowed to leaven the whole mass of society with Jacobite senti- ments. It may be stated here, that it was in this parish that the first act of rebellion was perpetrated in 1745, by an attack of the M' Donalds of Keppoch, on two companies of regular troops, which the rebels attacked, and took prisoners, after killing two of their men, and wounding their commander, Captain Scott, after- wards General Scott. After the Rebellion was suppressed, Charles Edward found shelter for some time in the sequestered glens of this parish, and some of the inhabitants experienced the tender mercies of the Duke of Cumberland. Parochial Registers. — There is a register of births and marriages, which commences in 1780. It was irregularly kept till the year 1820. The Roman Catholic population seldom use this record for baptisms ; but most of their marriages are entered in it. There is also a minute-book kept by the kirk-session. Land'Otoners, — These are as follows : — Valuations. The Honourable Ix)rd Ward, proprietor of Glengarry, . L.86d 7 5 Edward EUice, Esq of Glenquoicb, . 310 11 4 Honourable Robert Campbell Scarlett of Inverlochy, . 804 4 2* John Walker, Esq. of Lochtreig, . . . 715 18 4i Andrew Belford, Esq. of Glenfintaig, . 156 4 lOf J. E. Baillie, Esq. Kingussie, lands of Glenturrct, &c. . 247 18 84 A. M*Intosh, Esq. of M'lntosh, lands of Keppoch, &c. 700 Lieutenant-Colonel H. J. Cameron of Letterfinlay, . 416 13 4 KILMONIVAIO. 511 The real rental of the parish is L. 10,71 7, 15s. 6d. The only resident proprietor is Colonel Campbell of Letterfin- lay, who resides in a cottage. Some of the other proprietors visit their estates during the shooting season. Mansion- Houses. — The only mansion-house in the parish is Invergarry House, belonging to Lord Ward. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1801, . 2541 1811, . 2407 1821, 2842 1881, . 2869 1841, . 2783 The parish is divided into two districts, Lochaber and Glen- garry. The population of Lochaber at this time is 1933; of Glengarry, 850 ; total 2783. Number of families, 505. Five illegitimate births are recorded in the session-books in the course of the last three years. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — No improvements in agriculture have lately taken place in this parish, to any considerable extent The respective quantities of arable and pasture land in these extensive bounds, it is impossible to state with accuracy. Manufactures. — There are no manufactures in the parish ex- cept that of whisky, at the Bennevis distillery, carried on by Mr John Macdonald. Fishings, — 'J'he salmon-fishings of the river Lochy are rented at L.320 per annum. They belong to Mr Scarlett. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State, — About one-half the population belongs to the Established Church, — the other half is Roman Catholic Of Episcopalians there are two families. Stipend 18^ chalders, half meal, half barley, with L.10 for communion elements. There is neither manse nor glebe ; but for these there is an allowance from the heritors of L.70 per annum. There is a mission established on the Royal Bounty embracing the districts of Brae and Lochaber, in this parish, and Locharkaig, in Kilmalie. The missionary officiates in rotation, and as often as circumstances admit, at various stations within his bounds. Education. — There are three regular schools in the parish, — the parochial at Blarour, — the Assembly's school at Bunroy, — and the Society school at Invergarry. But, besides these, there are a few private schools got up among the people in the winter months. 512 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Three or four more schools are required. The parochial school- master's salary is the maximum : and his fees do not exceed L. S per annum. His other emoluments may amount to L. 4 per annum. The Assembly's school is singularly efficient, and a great blessing to the district Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 35. Highest rate, 68. 6d. ; lowest, L.2> 10s. per annum. The fund is supplied by church collections, amounting to about L. 10 per annum. And there is occasionally a voluntary contribution of a few pounds per annum by the heritors, February 1849. UNIT6D PARISHES OF DAVIOT AND DUNLICHITY* PRBSBTTBRT OF INVERNESS, STNOO OF MO^AY. I.— Topography and Natural History. Name. — Dunlichity^ the larger, and probably the older of these parishes, is so called from a high mountain or rather hill, at the bottom of which stands the church ; Dun^U^CcUtij that is the hill which is in the middle of and bisects the territory of the Caiti. The descendants of this ancient, numerous, and warlike people, under the various appellations of Mackintosh, Macgillivray, Macbean, Macqueen, Shaw, Macph^il, Smith or Gow, Davidson, Clark, and others, who are all followers of Mackintosh of Mackintosh as their chief, and Captain of Clanchattan, are at least nine to ten at this time, of the proprietors and possessors of laiid for a great tract on either side of this hill. On its summit is a large upright stone, called the ** Watching Stone" There are also unequivocal marks of its having been used as a place of rendezvous, or for making sig- nals, according to the manner that prevailed among our ancestors in remote ages. Daviot or Davie is said to be a name given to this parish in me* mory of Dayid Earl of Crawford, who built the fort or stronghold to be hereafter described. But, by the manner in which it is pro* nounced in Gaelic, this etymology seems forced and unnatural ; yet tradition has not preserved any other. Extent^ Boundaries^ S^c — These parishes lie nearly south-west and north-east, 6n both sides of the river Nairn, and extend in length about 23 miles. Their greatest breadth of ground ave- rages from 4 to 5^ miles, and their least scarcely one and a-half. They contain from eighty to ninety square miles. They are bound- ed on the south and east by the united parishes of Moy and Da- larossie; on the west and north«-west, by the parishes of Boleskine and Dores; on the north and north-east, by those of Inverness, * Drawn up by the late incurobcnti the Rev. James Macphail. INVERNESS. !« 1 5l4 INVERNESS-SHIRE. and Croy and Dalcross. Their boundaries and figure are very ir- regular. The hills which bound the south side of the parishes are one continued chain, and form the northern range of the Munadh Leagh mountains. They run south-west and north-east. Their height, upon an c.l Sui«. I.l W.. jLLooi.l iii/i¥JJ TXI^I'J^'i ^. F t ^h i 3t S 8 1 rnTeraeu, 11,16 ... toA|19ch. ( - ™19eh.f •• Seeieit. _ Urquhmrt A ) %lcnmori.toa. loa ... 55.16 ch. LI7 8, 8 10 8 10 1 3 Baletkine, I87d ... ... 3ifl)l8eh. 4 ao 4 Ki»KUuU, 2ia ... Fe*. ... lech. S' 34 4 4 5 AI,ie. ew ... ee- SL.150. 3 30 5 6 Mo,, 971 ... 97C ... 15 ch. S: 30 7 Kilmalie, 4334 ... 1 ... 600 l> 34 4 BG!eQ,.lg, 2726 ... ... ... L.fi87 7 S 4 ao 9Sm^I.l«, 9M ... 1 ... ... L.I50. 1 30 1 H.rri., 3387 ... ... ... L.I50. 4' 21 lINonfa Uiit, 4403 ... ... "4 ... L.150. 9 34 4 12 SouUi Uiit, 7329 354 fm 10, 28 8 IS Bmmj, 2aw 66 306 L.I50. 1, 26 N Porlree, 3575 ... 3575 L.150. 5, 31 4 Q 16 Kilmuir, 4867 ... L.150. 3 ao 6 Snimrt, 31 7a "so L.I50. 3, 30 7 BrauiiUle, 1820 L.l.iO. A. 28 6 Slmtb, 3150 3i'44 "I6 L27I 2 6 5, 30 4 30 BSleB,.' 27« i'o L.I50. » Uuirnbh, 371!8 4 I..I5U. 30 21 Kilmofwk, 2874 8^ L.2I2, Ac. 3 as 1746 a L.153, 3 30 ia Petli^ 1749 4 15 cb. .. 36 L»4 Ugg.n, 1201 200 L.iao. l| 34 4 43 C.orad.lc, 3m: 16 ch. 1, See teat. 2fi Croy, 1688 18 ch. 1 » 4 WKifthill, 1829 "e S 30 1475 ... L.150. 4 36 7 I 25 le Ol 7 35 of 28 KUUrlily, 2873 See e«. L.a04 10 8, Ao. 25 oS 27B6 393 393 8tch. 3^ 34 4 „ DiTiM & Oun. ^ 4^...\ H.b. J 2S 01 i 25 Of COUNTY OF INVERNESS. 527 of Parishes in the County of Inverness. masters* Emoluments. Annual amount of contributions to the Poor. | From assess- ment or vo* From From Alms, Feas. Total. luntary con- Church Legacies, Total. tribution by Collectioni t. &c. 1 Heritors. See text. • •• ... L.I00 L.192. L.460 2 L.50 L.84 ... 27 Int. of L.160. ... 3 •• • ••• ... • • • ... 41 4 «•• • •• ... 27 ... ••• 5 20 50 ... 15 ... • •• 6 10 40 ... 13 L.8, &c. • • • 7 50 84 4 *•* • • • • •• • • • 8 4 34 ... 20 • • • 20 9 10 40 ... ... Int. of L.30. ... 10 •«• • • • ... 1 2 ••• ... 11 16 40 4 ... 3 ... ... 12 4 12 30 12 ... •«• ... ... 1^ • > • • • • . . • ••• Int. of L.400. ... ••• • . « ... ..• ••• ... 15 • • • . • • ... 5 •. ... 16 2 13 32 13 ... 12 6 ..• ... 17 • • • • •• ... 7 L.13 12 20 12 IH 8 38 ... 1 14 9 • • • •.. 19 3 33 ••• 10 • • • •.* 20 8 .«• ... 7 See text. ... 21 •• • •• • ... 12 «• • ... 22 14 44 ... 12 L22. 34 2S 4 40 ... 12 3 .. • •• 24 ••• • • • ... 23 •*• • • • 25 See text. • • • ... 55 L.20. 75 26 «• • • • •*• 17 11 L.a ... 27 15 45 ... 25 ... ... 28 •• ••• *•• *•• L.40. ... 2S 15 40 16 G ... 16 ... 25 SO ) 5 C 1 39 4 C ... 10 G ) ... 81 C 9 C ) 9 G » 134 C 1 ; 34 C ) ) 1 Sec i text. •*• Table II. shewing the number of persons committted for trial or bailed in the county of Inverness, for different offences during the year 1 840 :— Offences against persons, property with violence, without violence, Malicious offences against property. Forgery and offences against the currency, Other offences, 20 6 32 1 5 12 76 INDEX. Abbey of Kinloss, the, 15 Aberiacban, tbe burn of, 4 Academies, see Education Acbnacarry bouse, 119 Affric locb, 363 Agriculture aiid rural economy, 20, 48, 58, 74, 91, 109, 123, 138, 153, 157, 173, 190, 210, 226, 276, 298, 297, 309, 349, 367, 374, 398, 428, 489, 460,474,511,520 Aigas, house of, 488 Aigisb, island of, 862 Aldowrie mansion-house, 373 Altivaig, bay of, 240 — island o^, 240 Alvie parish of, 81 — loch of, 83 — civil history of, 84--character of its inha- bitants, 90 — miscellaneous observa- tions on, 95 Anderson, Mr Jonathan of Glasgow, 33 Annat, the stone of, 305 Antiquities, 13, 43, 56, 71, 87, 100, 132, 151, 156, 169, 188, 206, 265, 289^ 296, 305, 335, 365, 391, 426, 437, 448. 470, 496, 518 Aonach Sassan hill, 484 Ardersier, parish of, 462 — civil history of, 467 — character of its inhabitants, 473— ministers of, 477 — friendly so- cieties, 481 Ardgour's house, 122 Ardivacbar promontory, 183 Ardmichael promontory, 183 Ardmile promontory, 183 Armadale castle, 265, 318 Amisdale, village of, 139 Aucbnagairn spring, 459 — mansion- house, 460 Aultguish, tbe burn of, 39 Aultsigh, tbe bum of, 38 Badenoch, the lord of, 67 — the strath of, 82 Bagpipe, the, 339 Baird, Principal, 82 Balachulish ferry, 118 — quarry, 123 Balfrishel, village of, 57 Balliefearie, 13 Banks, savings — Inverness, 33— Pettie, 415 Barray, parish of, 198— civil history of, 204--mansion-house, 208 — character INVERNESS. of its inhabitants, 209 — miscellaneous observations on, 216 Barrisdale house, 135 Bay loch, 326 Beaufort castle, 496 Beauly frith, the, 2— river, 363, 459, 487— village of, 369 Bee, loch of, 185 Beinevean loch, 363 Beinligh, hill of, 218 Belladrum mansion-house, 497 Belleville, 86— house, 89 Belmeanach, bay of, 219 Benalder, bills of, 418 Benbecula, island of, 182 Ben Nevis, 4, 117,503 Beolary house, 135 Bernera, island of, 155 — quarry, 202-« lighthouse, 208 Bishop's castle, the, 15 Blargybeg, 424 Boisdale, locb of, 183 Boleskine and Abertarff, parishes of, 51 — dvil history of, 55--character of their inhabitants, 57 Bona, the old church of, 14 Botany, 9, 42, 55, 84, 108, 167, 187, 203, 224, 264, 303, 818, 328, 364, 466, 493, 516 Boveray, island of, 163 Bracadale, parish of, 295— loch of, 296 — civil history of, 296 — character of its inhabitants, 297 — miscellaneous ob- servations on, 299 Braes, district of the, 283, 377 Breakachy, bum of, 419 Brewster, Sir David, 86 Broadford, village of, 306 Bronach, the bum of, 419 Buarblach, farm of, 141 Cabbage, the Glendale, 328 Caiplich, the moss of, 14 — the hills of, 41 Caim arc, 15 Calder, the river, 65— Bracklaich, 888 Caledonian canal, 25, 124 Cameron, Dugald Roy, 121 Camistinavaig, bay of, 219 Cammusmore, bay of, 240 Campbeltown, village of, 476 Candlestick, the cave of tbe, 325 Mm 530 INVERNESS-SHIRE. Caiina, island of, 149 — mansion-house, 152 Cannich, the bum of, 363, 487 Caracrom obelisk, 169 Castle Grant, 438 Castlehill of Inverness, the, 16 Castle Spiritin, 14 Cave, Prince Charles', 301 Chapel field, the, 519 Charles Stuart, Prince, 517, 518 Charman loch, harbour of, 195 Cheesebay, harbour of, 162 Chisholm of Chisholm, 365 Churches and chapels — Established, see Ecclesiastical Statisdcs-^-Dissenting, see Dissenters Cill Chuiman, village of, 57 Clachaii an Inair, 46 Clachan loch, 515 Clachnaharry, village of, 25 Clach Sgoilte, or the cloven stone, 98 Clanchattan, residence of the, 513 Clava, 450 Climate and meteorology, 2, 38, 52, 64, 82, 99, 1 18, 128, 155, 183, 200, 241, 288, 294, 302, 826, 363, 878, 420, 433, 459, 463 Cluny, caaUe of, 418, 427— -bum, 419 Coiltie, the river, 89 Coire loch, 515 Coir-uisge, lake of, 301 Coll, island of, 198 Communication, means of, 25, 27, 48, 59, 75, 93, 111, 124, 139, 179, 195, 214, 231, 298, 311, 320, 354, 405, 429, 441, 476, 499 Comyns, family of, 66 Corran Ardgour ferry, 118 Corriedow cave, 492 Corrybrough, property of, 104 Corrymony, the plain of, 37 Craig-an-Eoin, the chest of, 98 Craigbuie rock, 84 Craigderg rocks, 14 Craig Phadric, 13 Creag-Nisdale, hill of, 248 Cromdale, parish of, 432— hill, 432— character of its inhabitants, 439 — mis- cellaneous observations on, 443 Cromwell's mount, 470 Croy and Dalcross, parishes of, 444 — ci • vil history of, 448 — character of their inhabitants, 453 Culcabock, village of, 25 CulUns, hills of, 219 Culloden, the field of, 14, 514 — house of, 16— moor of, 377— battle of, 451 Curridan, the burial place of, 46 Dalmigavie, property of, 104 Dalraddy farm, 93 Dalwhinnie, 420 [ Darochville mansion house, 16 David Earl of Crawford, 518 Daviot and Dunlichity, united parsbes of 513 Daviot, old castle of, 518 — ^house, church, &c. 519 Davochs of the head, 87 Deaothack, the river, 485 Deer's forest, the, 449 Delfour, 87 Dheaick, the bum of, 868 Digmore harbour, 161 Dispensary, the Invemess, 83 Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 29, 179,215,412 Divach, the water of, 89 Dochfour, the bum of, 4 — the house of, 16— hills of, 41 Dochnalurg, the bum of, 6 Dog's island, 423 Dorcs, parish of, 378— civil history of, 373 Dremmashie moor, 514 Druidibeg loch, 185 Drummond, hills of, 418 Duff, Lady Ann, 104 Duirinish, parish of, 822 — civil history of, 829 — character of its inbabttants, 845 — miscellaneous observations on, 856 Dunain, the house of, 8 Dundaviot, hill of, 519 Dunlichity, origin of the name, 513 Dunmore, the E^l of, 156 Dunacriben, the fort of^ 45 Duntelchaig, loch, 515 Duntulm, bay of, 240— castle of, 264 Dunvegan head, 324 — ^loch, 825-— castle, 336 . Ecclesiastical statistics, 28, 49, 60, 76^ 94, 111, 125, 140, 153, 158, 179, 195, 214, 232, 260, 294, 298, 812, 320, 354, 370, 374, 406, 430, 441, 457, 461, 477, 499,511,521 Education, statistics of, 29, 50, 62, 77, 94, 111, 126, 142, 154, 158, 180, 196, 214, 233, 281, 294, 298, 312. 321, 355, 371, 374, 413, 431, 442, 458, 461, 481, 501,511,522 Eigg, island of, 145 Eilean Aigas, 488 Eilcan Isa, 326 Ellanreach house, 135 Enneric water, 37 Ensay, island of, 155 Ercgie mansion house, 373 Erisca, island of, 1 82 Errochd, loch of, 65 Essich quarry, 22 Eynort, loch of, 183, 296 Fairs, 34, 63, 78. 1 1 1, 1 15, 127, 144, 158, 180,216,281,234,811,356,371,482 INDEX. 531 Fairy Flag, the, 337 Famua, parish of, 459 Farquharson, the Rev. John, 364 Farrar, water of, 363 Faasfern qitarry, 123 Fergus, the Aird of, 423 Findhorn river, the, 101 Fingal, the sitting-place of, 218 Fingask mansion house, 460 Fisheries, 22, 59, 123, 157, 177,213.230, 253, 293, 31 1, 353, 369, 402, 475, 51 1 Fishes, 66, 102, 120, 130, 185,223,252, 303, ;i28, 364, 491 Fladda, island of, 240 Fladdachuain, island of, 240 Flemington loch, 380 Flodday, island of, 200 Flood, remarkahle, in Laggan, 419 Forbes, Lord President, 390 Fort- Augustus, the garrison of, 57 Fort- George, 471 Fortrose, cathedral at, 15 Fort-William harbour, 125 Foyers, fall of, 53 Fraser of Lovat, family of, 497 Fraser, Donald, courageous expedient of, 517 Funtack, the bum of, 97 Gaick, the forest of, 66 Gairloch channel, 245 Garry, the river, 505 Geology and mineralogy, 4, 40, 54, 83, 101, 119, 129, 149, 156, 165, 185, 202, 221 . 247, 302, 327, 363, 380, 421 , 433, 446, 465, 491, 515 Gighay, island of, 200 Glaimaig, hill of, 219 Glass, the river, 363, 487 Glencoe, the Alps of, 4 Glenconvinth, 484 Glcnelg, parish of, 128 — character of its inhabitants, 137 — miscellaneous ob- servations on, 144 Glenfeshie, the valley of, 82 Glen Gloy, 506 Glenhaltin, 288 Glenhinisdl, 288 Glenmore, valleyof, 132— district of, 233 Glennevis, 503 Glenroy, 504 — parallel roads of, 506 Glenspean, 504 Glentruim, house of, 427 Gordon, the Duchess of, 85 Gorgask water, 419 Gortleg mansion-house, 373 C;range, Lady, 333 Grant, Sir Lewis Alexander, of Grant, 46 Grantown, town of, 440 Gricshernish loch, 325 Greemesay, island of, 164 Guisacban house, 486 Gynag loch, 65 Harbours, 28, 125, 161, 195, 200, 219, 231 Harris, parish of, 155 — character of its inhabitants, 156 — miscellaneous ob- servations on, 159 Heacle mountain, 182 Hellisay, island of, 200 Helvel mountains, the greater and lesser, 323 Herrock, Donald, 170 Hill, the Watchman's, 13 Holme, the bum of, 4 Hougwhary harbour, 161 Horn, Rory Mor's, 338 Houm loch, 127 Huntly, the Marquis of, 86 Husbandry, systems of, 21, 58, 74, 91 » 110, 174, 211, 229, 277, 309, 319, 350, 368, 429, 440, 454, 475 Hasken, island of, 162 Idrigil cave, 325 Infirmary, the Inverness, 32 Inns and alehouses, and their effects, 35^ 51, 78, 115, 127, 144, 158, 180, 197, 216. 234, 282, 299, 313, 356, 372, 415, 431, 482, 502 Inord loch, 219 Invereshie, 87 Invergary house, 51 1 Inverie mansion-house, 135 Inverlochy castle, 507 Inverness, parish of, I — civil history of, 10 — ^burgh of, 11 — ancient fort of, 15 — the castlehill of, 16 — united charity institutions, 16 — town-hall of, 16 — character of its inhabitants, 18 — har- bours of, 28 — general observations on^ 524 Jail, the Invemess, 34 Kebbock Stone, the, 470 Kelp manufacture, 178, 194, 214, 353 Kessock ferry, 2 Kilmalie, parish of, 117 — civil history of, 120 — character of its inhabitants, 122 Kilmaluag district, 240 Kilmonivaig, parish of, 503 — civil his- tory of, 507 Kilmorack, parish of, 361— falls of, 361 — character of its inhabitants, 367 — miscellaneous observations on, 372 Kilmore burying ground, 45 Kilmuir, parish of, 237 — civil history, 255 — character of its inhabitants, 273 — miscellaneous observations, 282 Kiltarlity, parish of, 483 — civil history of, 495---mi8cellaneou8 observations on, 502 King's island, the, 423 632 INVERNESS-SHIRE, Kingussie, parish of, 63 — civil history of, 66 Kinrara residence, 89 Kirkehost, bland, 163 Kirkhill, parish of, 459 Kirkton of Glenelg, village of, 139 KismuirCastle, 207 Knodyart, 127 Knock Castle, 318 Kyleakin village, 307 Lacksta water, 156 Laggan,^ parish of, 417 — civil history of, 421 — character of its inhabitants, 428 Lakefield, 38 Land, rent of, 20, 58, 74, 91, 1 10, 123, 157, 192, 210, 228, 276, 310, 319, 349, 368, 398, 428, 440, 454, 460, 474,511 Lentram mansion house, 460 Leslie, the Rev. Mr, 104 Leys, the ridge of the, 6 — castle of, 452 Libraries and literature, 31, 77, 127, 414, 481 Lietchfield loch, 463 Lingay, island of, 162 Linneloch, 118 Lochaber, 83 Lochalsh, post-town of^ 193 Lochandu, 89 Lochandunty, 380 Locharkaig, 118 Lochbeinnemhian, 490 Loch Duich, 140 Lochiel, 1 18 — mansion house of, 122 Loch Inch, 83 Lochindorb, 433— castle, 437 Lochlaggan, 420 Lochletter, 38 Lochleven, 118 Loch Lochy, 119 Lochmaddy, harbours of, 162 — post-of- fice, 178 Loch Moy, 100 Lochnaluire, 490 Loch Ness, 53 Loch Nevis, 129 Lochscolpeg, 170 Lorn, Ian, 509 Loudon^ Lord, attempt of to surprise Charles Stuart, 517 Lynchat, village of, 93 Lynviulg post-office, 93 Macbean, Mr, of Tomatin, 103 M'Codrum, John, 168 Macdonald, Lord, 169~-Flora, 262 Macgillivray, Colonel, 516 Macintosh, Captain William, of Parr, 33 Mackintosh, Ned, of Borlam, 87 — monu- ment to Sir Eneas, 100 — Sir James, 105— famUy of, 516 Macueil, family of, 205 Macpherson, Cluny, 68 — James, Esq., Translator of Ossian*s Poems, 70 Maidens, Macleo^ds, 324 Manufactures, 22, 47, 158, 178, 194, 214, 369,511 Markets, see Fairs Meikly loch, 38 Meshie, bum of, 419 Meteorology, see Climate Miaghailt loch, 246 Mineralogy, see Geology Mingalay, island of, 198 Minsh channel, 244 Monadh-lia hills, 98 Monadliath, the hills of, 52, 418 Monar loch, 363 Moral, the fall of, 39 Morar, north, 127 Moray, the Earl of, treachery of towards the Clanchattan, 517 Moray Frith, the, 465 Moriston, the river, 40 Mountains, the Grampians, 4 Moy and Dalrossie, parishes of, 97 civil history of, 104 — character of its inhabitants, 1Q7 — miscellaneous ob- servations on, 115 Moy hall, 100 Muck, island of, 148 Muckerach, casUe of, 437 Mucomre bridge, 120 Muirtown house, 16 Munadh Leagh mountains, the, 514 Murkie burn, 419 Nainie, the, river, 515 Navigation and commerce, 23, 158, 178, 194, 353, 369, 461, 476 Needle rock, the, 239 Ness, the river, 3 — bridge, the, 28 Ness castle quarry, 22 Nevis, the water of, 119 Newton mansion house, 460 North Uist, parish of, 159— civil history of, 168 — character of its inhabitants, 172 — miscellaneous observations on, 180 Obbe, water of, 156 Orbost mansion house, 341 Ord, the muir of, 366 Orinsay, island of, 163 Ottirvore, bay of, 200 Pabba, island of, 155 Parochial registers, 13, 55, 70, 87, 106, 121, 151, 156, 169, 188, 206, 224, 267, 296, 305, 318, 341, 366, 373, 406, 423» 437, 451, 460, 470, 405, 510 Pataig bum, 419 Peindinavaig, hill of, 218 INDEX. 533 Pettle, parish of, 375— civil history of, | 982~€haiacter of its inhabitants, 396 — ministers of, 407 — savings bank, 415 — misoellaneous observations on, 415 Petyn, parish of, 375 Plantations and planting, 10, 42, l^, 58, 66, 84, 103, 109, 120, 130, 224, 228, 254, 421, 433, 449, 456, 459, 485, 495, 516 Plodda fall. 485 Population returns, 17, 47, 57, 72, 90, 106, 135, 152, 156, 168, 171, 189, 208, 225, 269, 291, 296, 307, 318 341, 366, 374, 394, 427, 438, 453, 460,472,498,511,520 Portree, parish of, 218— loch of, 219— village of, 231 — character of its inha- bitants, 225— harbour of, 231 — mis- cellaneous observations on, 235 Prince's cave, the, 183 PriosmheaU, hiU of, 295 Prisons, 34, 78, 127, 234, 443 Produce, average annual, 22, 59, 93» 111, 139, 157. 178, 193. 214, 280, 399 Provisions, price of, 21, 74 Quarries, 22, 123, 202, 310, 369 Quiraing, 238 Raidof Petty, the, 517 Raigmore house,. 16 Raitts, bum of, ^¥l^v6 at, 88 Rannocb, braes of, 420 Rasay, island of, 219 — mansion-house, 225 Reelick mansion-house, 460 Rbulva, harbour of, 163 Rivers and waters, 3, 38, 53, 65, 83, 100, 118, 129, 155, 183, 220, 244, 289, 302, 325, 363, 380, 419, 433, 459, 465, 484, 490, 505,515 Rodil, church of, 156 Rout of Moy, the, 517 Rum, island of, 148 Ruthven loch, 515 Sanderay, island of, 200 Sconcer, district of, 222 Scunt, water of, 156 Scur Eigg, 146 Seafield, the Earl of, 46 Shelliva, harbour of, 195 Sianta loch, 245 Skipport, loch of, 182 — harbour of, 195 Skye, island of, 218 Slappen loch, 302 Sleat, parish of, 317 — dvil history of, — character of its inhabitants, 31 &— miscellaneous observations on, 322 Sligichan loch, 219 Small Isles, parish of, 145 — civil history of, 151 Snixort, parish of, 287— loch, 289— civil history of, 289— character of its inba- bitants, 292 Soay, island of, 296 Societies, 29, 33, 402 South Uist, parish of, 182 — character of its inhabitants, 189 — miscelUmeous observations on, 197 Spean, the river, 119, 505 Spey, the river, 4, 65, 83, 419 SpejTside Orphan Hospital, 440 Staslay, island of, 185 Stein village of, 353 Steiuschol district, 240 Storr hiUs, 287 Strath, parish of, 300— dvil history of, 304---character of its inhabitants, 308 — ^miscellaneous observations on, 313 Strathglass, 484 Strathnaim, valley of, 51 4 Suidh-Chuiman, 56 Taamer, island of, 296 Tables, Macleod*s, 323 Tigbary, the cave of, 161 Tomnahurich, 13 Tor a' Bhean, the ridge of, 14 Town Hall, the Inverness, 16 Towiis and viUages, 25, 48, 57, 93, 139^ 353 Trinity Temple, 169 Trium, the nver, 65 Trodda, island of, 240 Tromie, the river, 65 Tulm, island of, 240 Tvrie, island of, 198 Uidhay, island of, 200 Uilevay, bay of, 200 United Charity Institutions, the Inver- ness, 16 Urquhart and Glenmoriston, parishes of, 36 — dvil history of, 43 — character of their inhabitants, 47 Urquhart Castle, 43 Ushinish, the point of, 183 Uvie loch, 419 Vallay, island of, 161 Wages, rates of, 19, 20, 58, 74, 110, 167, 174, 192, 210, 228, 310, 349, 368, 401, 429, 440, 499 Watemish mansion-house, 341 Watersay, island of, 200 Wester £skadale, 487 White Castle, the, 152 Whiteness head, 463 \ria, island of, 182, 296 Yesker, island of, 240 Zoology, 54, 66, 102, 120, 156, 165, 186i 209» 222, 250, 303, 327, 36^ 421, 433, 466, 493 rRINTED BV JOHK STABK, OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, ZDINBUBOH. ^^^"^■■IWi ROSS AND CROMARTY. CONTENTS. I ALNESS, • • • PAGE 332 APPLECR0S8, 99 AVOCH, 381 BARVAS, • 141 CONTIN, 235 CROMARTY, • 1 DINGWALL, 210 EDDERTOUN, • 433 FEARN, 360 FODDBRTY, • OAA » OVT GAIRLOCB, 90 GLBNSHIEL, V 181 KILLBARNAN, 63 KILMDlR AND SUDDY, 57 KILMUIR EASTER, 300 KILTEARN, t 313 KINCARDINE, 403 KINTAIL, • 170 KIRKMICHAEL AND CULLICUDDBN, 37 LOCHALSH, • • • 260 LOCQBROOM, • • 72 LOCHCARRON, * • • 107 LOCHS, • • 157 LOGIB EASTER, '« • • 52 NIG6, • • 18 ROSEMARKIE, f • 1 > 348 ROSSKEBN, ■• • 233 STORNOWAY, « • • 115 TAIN, ' • • • 280 TARBAT, • • • 460 UIG, • • 151 URQUHART AND LOGIB WESTER, 363 URRAY, • • 399 I ^ — B*^ •^ H ■V I- 5 ?i ■■ 7- 1 4 I t J .1 J. L PARISH OF CROMARTY. PRESBYTERY OP CHANONRY, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. ALEXANDER STEWART, MINISTER. ♦ I. — Topography and Natural History. Situation^ Boundaries^ Sfc. — The parish of Cromarty lies in the extreme eastern angle of the old shire of that name, — abutting, on the south and west, on the parishes of Rosemarkie and Resolis ; and on the north and east, on the Cromarty and Moray Friths. It is of an irregularly oblong figure, averaging from 5 to 7 miles in length, and from 2 to 3 in breadth. On the east, it presents to the waves of the Moray Frith an abrupt and lofty wall of preci- pices ; and attains in this direction to its highest elevation, of about 470 feet above the level of the sea, at a distance of little more than 500 yards from the shore. On the north and west it sweeps gently towards the Frith of Cromarty ; but sinks abruptly over the beach into a steep continuous bank, which, from the shells occa- sionally dug up at its base, seems at some early period to have formed the coast line.* There now intervenes, however, in most places, a lower terrace between it and the shore. Viewed from the north, the parish presents a bold high outline, — rising towards the east, where it marks the junction of the Cromarty and Moray Friths, like a huge leviathan out of the sea, and descending to- wards the west into a long rectilinear ridge, of the character so pe* culiar to sandstone districts. An irregularly edged stripe of fir wood covers, for about six miles, the upper line ; a broad arable belt mottled with cottages and farm-steadings occupies the decli- vity ; while the terrace below, — near the eastern extremity of which the town is situated, and which, like the upper belt, is mostly ara- ble, — advances in some places on the sea in the form of low pro- montories, and is scooped out in others to nearly the base of the escarpment Name, — The parish is said to owe its name {Cromboj t. e, crook- * Drawn up by Mr Hugh Miller, Author of " Scenes and L^ends of the North of Scotland.'* ROSS AND CROMARTY. A ^ ROSS AND CROMARTY. ed bay) to the windings and indentations of its shores. It is surrounded by a highly picturesque country ; and is rich in pros- pects which combine the softer beauties of the lowlands with the bolder graces peculiar to an alpine district. Climate, — In climate, the parish differs considerably from most of the adjacent country. The entrance of the Frith is guarded by two lofty headlands about a mile apart ; and during the warm- er months, there sets in at noon a cool sea-breeze, which some- times hardly ruffles the water for more than half a mile beyond the opening, and rarely extends for more than five miles within. It seems occasioned by the rarefaction of the warmer air in the interior, and the compression of the denser current, — rushing in to restore the equilibrium, — in the narrow entrance of the Frith. The average heat of summer is, in consequence, lower than in most of the neighbouring parishes. I have observed that the acorn rarely attains the ordinary size, and almost never ripens. But the winters are moderate ; it is no uncommon occurrence to find our gooseberry bushes in full blossom at Christmas ; and in no part of Scotland do trees flourish nearer the sea. The parish is rare- ly visited in the summer months by fever, — an effect, it is probable, of the cool ventilating breeze ; and though the keen damp air is found to bear heavy on persons affected by pulmonary complaints or rheumatism, the inhabitants in general are a robust healthy race, and many of them attain to extreme old age. There is at present residing in the town, a woman who was employed in tend- ing a flock of sheep on the day of Culloden, and who still retains a vivid recollection of her terror on hearing the cannon ; and there died in it in one season, about seventeen years ago, three old men, the first of whom had completed his ninetieth, the second his hun- dredth, and the third his hundredth and first year. Bay 8^ Springs^ Cascades. — The bay of Cromarty was deemed one of the finest in the world, at a time when the world was very imper- fectly known, and modern discovery seems to have done nothing to lower its character. Almost all the black-letter historians dwell upon it in their quaint and impressive language, as the very para- gon of harbours. Stow in his Chronicles characterizes it as *^ an exceeding quiet and saue hauen." Boece eulogizes it in his preli- minary book as the hail (health) of seamen ; and it has been de- scribed by Buchanan in elegant and graphic Latin, (showing us that the poet was not wholly sunk in the historian,) as *^ formed by the waters of the German Ocean, opening a way through the stu- pendous cliffs of the most lofty precipices, and expanding within CROMARTY. 3 into a spacious basin, affording certain refuge against every tem- pest.'' As described by the historian, the entrance is narrow ; the headlands lofty and precipitous, and so exposed to the sea, that it is not uncommon during gales from the north-east to see waves breaking upon them to the height of fully 100 feet ; but so completely sheltered is the basin within, that from most points of view it presents the appearance of a lake. In breadth it varies from 2 to rather more than 5 miles ; its length is about 18 ; the depth averages from 9 to 12 fathoms, but in the entrance in some places it exceeds 30, — ^a depth which nearly doubles that of the frith into which it opens. It has frequently been described by sea- faring men, who ue universally acquainted with it, and who rarely speak of it without an enthusiasm, the result of many a grateful as- sociation, as sufficiently capacious to shelter the whole British navy. Most of the springs of the parish are of a petrifying quali- ty. The water of nearly all the draw-wells deposit inside our tea- kettles, in the course of a few years, a crust of lime fully a quarter of an inch thick; and some of our rock springs are so largely charged with this earth, as frequently to block up their older channels, and burst out in new ones, which are to be choked up in turn. There is one little spring which moistens a stripe of precipice notmore than a yard in breadth, which yet, by this process of shifting, has covered an extent of at least twenty yards with coral-like petrifactions of moss and lichens, intermingled with grass and nettle stalks, and with a hard breccia, which, more enduring than the rock on the edge of which it has formed, projects over like a cornice, for nearly four feet. There are no rivers in the parish, and the streams are mere runnels ; but there is one of these (the burn of Ethie) which from its cascades, and the beauty of its scenery, is highly deserving of notice. It forms the extreme boundary of the parish towards the south, and runs for the last two miles of its course through a nar- row precipitous gulf of great depth, which seems to have been scooped, by some frightful convulsion, out of an immense bed of sandstone, which in this part of the parish attains to an elevation of above 250 feet above the level of the sea. The traveller ad- vances a few yards along the course of the stream, and finds that he is shut in from almost the entire face of nature, and from the whole works of man. A line of mural precipices rises on either hand, — here advancing in gigantic columns like those of an Egyptian temple, — there receding into deep solitary recesses, tapestried with ivy, and darkened by birch and hazel. The cliffs vary their outlines 4 ROSS AND CROMARTY. at every step, as if assuming in succession all the various combina* tions of form which constitute the wild and the picturesque ; and the pale yellow hue of the stone seems, when brightened by the sun, the very tint a painter would choose to heighten the effect of his shades, or to contrast most delicately with the luxuriant profusion of bushes and flowers that wave over every shelf and cranny. A colony of swallows have built, from time immemorial, in the hollows of one of the loftiest precipices. As the traveller proceeds, the dell becomes wilder and more deeply wooded, the stream frets and toils at his feet, here leaping over an opposing ridge, there strug- gling in a pool, yonder escaping to the light from under some frag- ment of cliff: There is a richer profusion of flowers,a thicker mant- ling of ivy and honeysuckle, and after passing a semicircular inflec- tion of the bank, which, waving from summit to base with birch and hawthorn, may remind one of some vast amphitheatre on the morn- ing of a triumph, he finds the passage shut up by a perpendicular wall of rock, about thirty feet in height, over which the stream pre- cipitates itself in a slender column of foam into a dark mossy basin. A little cluster of hazels fling their arms half-way across, — trebling with their shade the apparent depth of the pool, and heightening in an equal ratio the effect of the white flicker of the cascade, and of the little bright patches of foam, which, flung from the rock, incessantly revolve on the eddy. The entire scene is exquisitely wild and picturesque, — such a one as the painter would love to transfer to his canvas, and the man of taste delight to contemplate ; but a larger body of water is wanting to raise it to the dignity of the sublime. There are two other cascades, scarcely inferior in beauty, in the upper part of the dell. Geology, — The eastern corner of the parish, which, from its superior elevation, bears the name of the hill of Cromarty, is com- posed of an immense primary mass of granitic gneiss, partially vein- ed with white quartz, and lined, in some places where it bounds on the Moray Frith, with huge blocks of hornblende. The strata are much twisted and broken, as if shattered by earthquakes when passing under the influence of extreme heat from a solid to a fluid state, and in many places they assume a nearly vertical position. The precipices of the hill are of great height, rising perpendicu- larly nearly an hundred yards above the shore, and they abound in caverns, which add much to the wildness of the scenery, and pre- sent us in several places with picturesque and highly uncommon combinations of form. In the gorge of a deep precipitous chasm 4 CROMARTY. 5 about two miles to the east of the town, there is a natural arch which yields a narrow and doubtful passage to what would have been otherwise an insulated pile of rock, at the height of about an hundred feet over the beach. A second pile of rock, which stands out of the sea like the ruins of an inundated temple, is perforated by no fewer than four natural arches, one of which is about forty feet in span ; and tliere is a cave near the extreme angle of the hill, which runs so deep into the rock, that at its inner extremity the light of the opening is hardly seen to glimmer along the hoar and dewy sides, — crusted with hardening moss, and ridged with stalactites ; and the objects beyond seem as if viewed through the tube of a telescope. The granitic gneiss extends over a space of about three square miles. The rest of the parish, which is secondary, is variously composed of sandstones, argillaceous shales, breccia, and minute veins of lime ; and the angle of the strata averages in most places from about twenty to thirty, except in the neighbourhood of the hill, where, like that of the granitic mass, it is nearly vertical. The older sandstone formations lie in this direction, — the more recent towards the west ; and between these, there intervene beds of a stratified clay, which seem in this part of the country, like the carboniferous shales of Caithness, to represent the coal measures of the south. They abound in ani- mal remains of an obscure but highly interesting class. In a little bay about three hundred yards to the east of the town, where the beds have been laid bare by the sea, and in which they assume a nearly horizontal position, we find their softer clays partially co- vered with nodules of a firmer texture, which, from their detached and rounded appearance, resemble floats of broken ice on a lake. Each of these, even the most minute, contains the remains of some animal, — plates resembling those of the tortoise, pieces of skin roughened like that of the dog-fish or shark, the scales and bones of fish ; and in some of the better specimens we can still trace the original form, with the fins and tail spread to the full, and the scales as regularly arranged as when they covered the liv- ing animaL The clays of the little bay, after losing themselves in the beach, reappear in the bottom of a deep ravine which inter- sects the old coast line ; and here, rather more than a century ago, they were perforated to a considerable depth in boring for coal. But the attempt was unsuccessful. On withdrawing the kind of augre used for the purpose, a bolt of water, which occupied the whole diameter of the bore, came rushing after like the jet of a 6 ROSS AND CROMARTY. fountain, and the work was prosecuted no fartiier ; for, as si engines were not yet invented, no pit could have been wrouj with so large a stream issuing into it. The spring, a fine chu beate, still continues to flow between its double row of cresses| the sea, at the mte, as was ascertained bv experiment about twi years ago, of nearly a hogshead per minute. A little dome of hen stone lias been raised over ii, and, with the wooded ravine ii back ground, and surrounded by trees and bushes, it would form, j the bands of Turner, no bad subject for a vignette. It is ( known to the towns-people aa " The well of the Coalheugb," name commemoraiive of its origin. The eastern part of the parish presents a highly interests field to the geologist, A few hundred yards beyond wher- bounds on the Moray Frith, there is a ridge of bilumit shale intersperEied with beds and nodules of limestone, w abound in the various fossils peculiar to the lias formi The ridge itself is covered by the walers of the Frith, but every fresh storm from the north-easl, we find fragments wh.> waves have detached from it strewed upon the beach. ^ contain ammonites, belemnites, scallops, both plain and i _ pieces of wood and charcoal, and the fleshy leaf of a 1 _ sembling the aloe. The boulders and water-worn pebU* ^ line the shores "of the parish, and abound in its alluviaV ^— gravels, are composed mostly of schistose gneiss, and a ^^ granite, of which no rocks are to be found nearer than coast of Ross-shire. The rounded and lialf-polish' _ the latter stone are often of immense size, cont' ^^^ hundred cubic feet ; and they seem to have been " *^T the island in the direction of the larger valleys, by S" •^^ flood setting in from the west. In most places, Ui parish is a stiff alluvial clay, which, on the edge ■■ line, overlies the sandstone to the dejiih of nearli but it thins oS'in the ascent to not more than t to the action of waier, and hence we lind th:!' in the parish has scooped out a channel for i below, and runs at the bottom of a deep most cases by steep precipitous han ks. Mosses, Fuel. — A short half n inflection of the bank, there j| covered over by a layerfl ago, it was laid opf *••'• of (lie Universily of .iingiiages, , like IS iiislory is tliat of many besides. He entered life .' knowledge which every pent his early days in a lons, which a spirit not in- 1^ the author of a Hebrew ist, Dr Alexander Murray, lobiography, his first iniro- 1 Boswell, in his Journal of ihoson when in Edinburgh .ibrary, and with the conver- u'ariaiu" lly a district of Scotland that il with it than the parish of ire various in their origin, or o character of the past ages. very early period, and seem 'ouring Highlands. There are as a remote sea port, inhabit- while a third and more recent .sUind colony. No single story, ■ciinen of the whole; and it is, ■.e choice of one, when there are 1 oven one, though taken at ran- I Iw the dryness of topographical a the eastern part of the parish, lie along the edge of a range of "aclies a tine spring of limpid wa- 'he side of a .•priiig has I: I'i more, by tl ludicinai ; ; tice through v 8 ROSS AND CROMARTY. flict, of which only these vestiges remain, seems to have taken place in a remote and misty period, ere the ingenuity of man had taxed itself to record the ravages of his fiercer passions. There was a second cairn on the moor, which, about thirty years ago, was carried away for building by a farmer of the parish, and there were found on its removal human bones of a gigantic size ; among the rest, a skull sufficiently capacious, according to the de- scription of one of the labourers, to contain " two lippies of bear." Cromarty owed little to its Highland neighbourhood; the inhabi- tants were lowland Scots ; and it seems to have constituted one of the battle-fields on which needy barbarism and the imperfectly formed vanguard of a slowly advancing civilization contended for the mastery. Early in the reign of James IV. it was ravaged by a combination of the nearer clans, and so complete was the spolia- tion, that the entire property of the inhabitants, to their very household furniture, was carried away. Restitution was afterwards enforced by the Lords of Council. We find it decreed in the Acta Dominorum Concilii for 1492, that Hucheon Rose of Kil- ravock (the main projector of the enterprise) do restore, content, and pay to Mr Alexander Urquhart, Sheriff of Cromarty, and his tenants, the various items carried off by him and his accomplices, viz. 600 cows, 100 horses, 1000 sheep, 400 goats, 200 swine, and 400 bolls of victual ; but how immense an amount of suffering must the foray have occasioned, from which nothing could be subtracted by any after sentence of the law ! Eminent Men. — Sir Thomas Urquhart, so famous for his Gene^ ahgy and his Universal Language^ was a native of Cromarty, and during the reign of Charles L proprietor of nearly the entire shire. He was born in 1613, and died on the continent after an eventful life, spent in courts and camps, in prison and in exile, on the eve of the Restoration. Few of his works survive. Nearly a hundred manuscripts, the labours of his studious hours, were lost on the disastrous field of Worcester, where he was taken prisoner by the army of the Commonwealth. Enough remain, however, to show the extraordinary mind of the writer. He was one of that singular and highly curious class of geniuses, in whom rare and uncommon talents seem to rest, not on their proper basis of prac- tical good sense, but on a substratum of extravagance and absurdity. A periodical critic of the present age describes him as ^^ not only one of the most curious and whimsical, but one of the most power- ful also, of all the geniuses our part of the island has produced.'* CROMARTY. 9 The late Dr James Robertson, Librarian of the University of Edinburgh, and Professor of the Oriental Languages, was, like Sir Thomas, a native of Cromarty. His history is that of many a scholar, and many a man of genius besides. He entered life poor and friendless, and with a thirst for knowledge which every fresh draught served only to increase, spent his early days in a long struggle with difficulties and privations, which a spirit not in- vincible could not have overcome. He is the author of a Hebrew grammar, to which the self-taught linguist, Dr Alexander Murray, owed, as he tells us in his interesting autobiography, his first intro- duction to Hebrew ; and we learn from Boswell, in his Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides, that Dr Johnson when in Edinburgh ^^ was much pleased with the College Library, and with the conver- sation of Dr James Robertson, the librarian." Traditional Stories. — There is hardly a district of Scotland that has more traditional stories connected with it than the parish of Cromarty, or whose legends seem more various in their origin, or are more distinctly impressed with the character of the past ages. Some of these belong evidently to a very early period, and seem to have floated into it from the neighbouring Highlands. There are other stories which are peculiar to it as a remote sea port, inhabit- ed for ages by sailors and fishermen ; while a third and more recent class belongs to it as an insulated lowland colony. No single story, therefore, can be regarded as a specimen of the whole ; and it is, besides, rather a nice matter to make choice of onej when there are hundreds from which to select ; but even one, though taken at ran- dom, may serve as a sort of relief to the dryness of topographical history. There is a little path which, in the eastern part of the parish, goes winding over rock and stone along the edge of a range of low-browed precipices, till it reaches a fine spring of limpid wa- ter, that comes gushing out of the side of a bank covered with moss and daisies. This beautiful spring has been known to the people of the town for a century and more, by the name of Fiddler's-well. Its waters are said to be medicinal ; and there is a tradition still preserved of the circumstance through which its virtues were first discovered, and to which it owes its name. Two young men of the place, who were much attached to each other, were seized at nearly the same time by consumption. In one, the progress of the disease was rapid ; he died two short months after he was attack- ed by it ; while the other, though wasted almost lo a shadow, had 10 ROSS AND CROMARTY. yet Strength enough left to follow the corpse of his companion to the grave. The simame of the survivor was Fiddler, — a name still common among the seafaring men of the town. On the even* ing of the interment, he felt oppressed and unhappy, — ^his imagi- nation was haunted by a thousand feverish shapes of open graves, with bones mouldering round their edges, and of coffins with the lids displaced ; and after he had fallen asleep, the images, which were still the same, became more grisly and horrible. Towards morning, however, they had all vanished ; and he dreamed that he was walking alone by the sea shore in a clear and beautiful day of summer. Suddenly, as he thought, some person stepped up be- hind, and whispered into his ear, in the voice of his deceased com- panion, " Go on, Willie, I shall meet you at Stormy" There is a rock in the neighbourhood of Fiddler's well so called, from the violence with which the sea beats against it when the wind blows strongly from the east. On hearing the voice, he turned round, and seeing no one, he went on, as he thought, to the place named, in the hope of meeting with his friend, and sat down on a bank to wait his coming; but he waited long, lonely and dejected; and then remembering that he for whom he waited was dead, he burst into tears. At this moment a large field-bee came humming from the west, and began to fly round his head. He raised his hand to brush it away ; it widened its circle, and then came humming into his ear as before. He raised his hand a second time, but the bee could not be scared oS*; it hummed ceaselessly round and round him, until at length its murmurings seemed to be fashioned into words, articulated in the voice of his deceased companion, « Dig, Willie, and drink," it said, « Dig, Willie, and drink." He accordingly set himself to dig, and no sooner had he torn a sod out of the bank than a spring of clear water gushed from the hollow ; and the bee taking a wider circle, and humming in a voice of triumph that seemed to emulate the sound of a trumpet, flew away. He looked after it, but as he looked, the images of bis dream began to mingle with those of the waking world; — the sce- nery of the hill seemed obscured by a dark cloud, in the centre of which there glimmered a faint light; — the rocks, the sea, the long declivity faded into the cloud ; and turning round, he saw only a dark apartment, and the first beams of morning shining in at a window. He rose, and after digging the well, drunk of the water and reco- vered. And its virtues are still celebrated ; for though the water be only simple water, it must be drunk in the morning, and as it gushes CROMARTY. 1 1 out of the bank ; and with pure air, exercise, and early rising for its auxiliaries, it continues to work cures. III. — Population. Ancient Inhabitants and early TVade of the Parish, — Though, from the older names of places in the parish, it is evident its ori- ginal population, like that of the neighbouring districts, was Cel- tic, the inhabitants about a century ago were so exclusively low- land that there was no Graelic service performed in its church. The character of the people, too, their dress, personal appearance, habits, and the simames common among them, identified them with their country fol^s of the south. They were the descendants, we may infer, of some such lowland colony as James VI. planted in the Isle of Lewis with the intention of civilizing the wild natives; and the facilities for trading afforded by the admirable harbour of the place would, it is probable, have directed their choice. The Scotch seem at a very early period to have been a seafaring people. We learn from Heron, that, prior to the reign of Robert the Bruce, they exported wool and salmon from the southern ports of the kingdom into Flanders and France ; and in charters of lands bordering on the sea the spoils of stranded vessels were either granted or reserved with much care, — a proof that shipwrecks were no unfrequent occurrences. Inverness and Cromarty, which seem to have been united by charter, appear to have shared at a remote period in the trade of the south. In the museum of the Northern Institution, there is an ancient custom-house seal or cocket of the united burghs of Invimis et d Chrombhte^ supposed to belong to the reign of Robert II. There were laid open, in trenching a piece of ground in the eastern part of the town about ninety years ago, se- veral ranges of vaults, apparently intended for store places, which must have belonged to our earlier merchants ; and of a collection of little pieces of copper coin which were dug up at different times in our fields and gardens, I have found that two-thirds were Scotch, and the remaining third French. And it seems improbable that the north country trader of the obscure period to which these re- mains belong, could be of other than lowland extraction ; — his con- temporary, the Highlander, was only conversant with the dirk. Cromarty seems to have sunk almost entirely during the seven- teenth century ; a dark era of distress and depression to Scotland ; but it rose almost immediately after the Revolution ; and early in the reign of Queen Anne, when it drove an extensive trade in her- rings, there were five large vessels connected with it, as the pro- 12 ROSS AND CROMARTY. perty of its wealthier merchants. But it again experienced a re- verse. Like many of the trading towns of Scotland, it suffered from the Union ; the* sudden failure of its herring fishery com- pleted its ruin ; and so low had it fallen before the year 1730, that a single shopkeeper, who was not such literally, for in the sum- mer season he travelled the country as a pedlar, more than sup- plied the inhabitants. It began, however, about thirty years af'- ter to emerge yet a third time, under the impulse of that general spirit of improvement, which, since the suppression of the last re- bellion, has operated throughout the kingdom; and the popu- lation, which has become much less exclusively lowland than formerly, has been steadily on the increase ever since. The break- ing up of the feudal system first introduced habits of comparative industry into the Highlands ; the breaking up of the small farm system has scattered many of the people over the low country, to avail themselves of these habits, as labourers, fishermen, or mecha- nics ; and so large a proportion of this class has fallen^^to the parish of Cromarty, that it was found necessary, about fifty years ago, to build and endow a Gaelic chapel, which is now attended by a con- gregation of at least 500 persons. The population of the parish in 1801 amounted to about 2413. It had increased to 2900 in 1831^ Fully three-fourths of the latter number are inhabitants of the town. During the last three years, there were about 6 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Number of acres cultivated or occasionally in tillage, is about, . 2047 constantly waste or in pasture, • - 8166 under wood, .... 1855 It is supposed that a considerable number of acres in the upper part of the parish might be profitably added to the cultivated land. The arable part of the parish towards the east is laid out into fields inclosed by fences of stone or hawthorn; and the offices of the various fiirms in this direction consist of those square- looking stone and lime erections, which always indicate the intro- duction of the modern system of agriculture. But in passing towards the west, we seem as if retrograding from the present to tlie middle of the past century ; we find the surface broken into irregular map-like patches, divided from each other by little strips and corners of land not yet reclaimed from the waste ; and the CROMARTY. 13 Steadings are composed of straggling groups of cottages built of undressed moor-stones, and covered with turf. In most instances, rows of gnarled and time-wasted elms form an accompaniment to these groups, as if to connect them more thoroughly with the past, by reminding us that the present occupants are growing old under the roofs which sheltered their grandfathers. The improved sys- tem of agriculture was first acted upon in Cromarty, on a scale suf- ficiently extensive to render it advantageous, by a Mr George Middleton, a gentleman from England, who settled in the parish about forty years ago. It had been introduced into the place by a spirited proprietor (of whom more anon) nearly twenty years before. Mr Middleton erected the first thrashing mill seen in this part of the country^ and exported the first wheat ; for it is a singular fact, that, forty years ago, there was not a field of this grain reared in the parish, though it now forms the staple of its agriculture, and one of the chief exports of its trade. The diflSculties which of late years have borne so heavily on our farmers, have done much towards the general introduction of the modern system. In the universal struggle with high rents on the one hand, and very low prices on the other, all have striven to restore the balance destroy- ed through the reduction in the value of their produce, by adding to its amount ; and the observation and experience of a full quar- ter of a century have convinced even the most prejudiced, that there is but one set of means through which the necessary amount can be obtained. During the last ten years every farmer in the pa- rish has reared and exported wheat ; but the inevitable effects of over-production have already become apparent ; the value of this grain is fast sinking below even that of oats and barley, and a con- sequent change of system must necessarily ensue. The lands of the parish, with the exception of a few little patch- es, are divided between two proprietors, Hugh Rose Ross, Esq. of Cromarty, and Captain George Mackay Sutherland of Udale. The extensive and beautiful estate of the former contains nearly 6500 acres, of which 1800 are arable, and the rest under wood and pasture. The highly cultivated property of the latter gentleman, one of the most beautiful in this part of the country, contains about 500. The rental of the parish is estimated at about L. 3300. Trade, Manufacture, Fishery. — About the year 1765, the estate of Cromarty was purchased by Mr George Ross, a gentleman of 14 ROSS AND CROMARTY. superior talents and singular energy of character, who had realiz* ed an immense fortune in England as an army agent. He owed his first advancement in life to the patronage of the celebrated Lord Mansfield ; and the redoubtable Junius, who spared no one out of respect to his lordship, alludes to him in one of his letters in no very friendly spirit, as " George Ross, the Scotch agent" And justly might the satirist have accused him of a true Scotch- man-like attachment to his country. No one ever did so much for this northern part of it, or pointed out with more statesman-like sa- gacity its hitherto neglected resources. He furnished the town, at a great expense, with an excellent pier; established in it a manufactory of hempen cloth, which has ever since employed about 200 persons within its walls, and fully twice that number without ; built a brewery, which at the time of its erection, was the most ex- tensive in the north of Scotland ; and first set on foot a trade in pork for the English market, which, for the last twenty years, has been carried on by the traders of the place to an extent of from about L. 15,000 to L. 20,000 annually. None of his various pro- jects seem to have been entered into with an eye to personal ad- vantage ; and though all of them were ultimately found to be be- nefits conferred on the country, not one of them proved remune- rative to himself. The Gaelic chapel, already referred to, and the town-house, a neat substantial edifice, with a large hall in the up- per storey, and a prison in the lower, and surmounted by a dome furnished with a clock, were two of his gifts to the place. There is but one branch of trade connected with Cromarty, whose his- tory is not comprised in that of this patriotic and generous pro- prietor. The herring fishery, which in the reign of Queen Anne furnished its only staple, was so successfully prosecuted about twelve years ago, that more than 20,000 barrels were exported in one season ; but of late years the fish seem almost to have desert- ed the frith, and many of the fishermen, in consequence of a se- ries of expensive and ill remunerated exertions, have sunk into ab- ject poverty. V. — Parochial Economy. Toums^ Villages. — Rather more than half a century ago, there was a small village in the parish, named Metkle-Famess ; but it has since disappeared under the influence of those changes, which, within the last fifty years, have new modelled the domestic econo- my of the country. The steam looms of Glasgow and Paisley have stripped the village weaver of his employment ; the manufac- CliOMABTY. 15 turers of ShefiSeld and Birmingham have discharged its smith ; the taste for fashionable furniture, to which the improved dwel- lings of our agriculturists naturally led, has shut up the workshop of its carpenter ; and the love of dress, so universally diffused in the present age, has levelled the domicile of its tailor, and the stall of its maker of Highland shoes. The town of Cromarty is pleasant- ly situated in the eastern part of the parish, on a low alluvial pro- montory, washed on two of its sides by the sea. It is irregularly built, exhibiting in its more ancient streets and lanes, that home- ly Flemish style of architecture characteristic of all our older towns of the north ; and displaying throughout that total disregard of general plan, which is said most to obtain in the cities and villages of a free country. The place is so surrounded by friths and arms of the sea, that its communications with neighbouring districts are frequently interrupted. Much, however, has been done to facili-^ tate the necessary intercourse. In the summer months, an omni- bus plies every day, except Sundays, between the town and Inver- ness, passing in its route through the towns of Chanonry, Rose- markie, and Avoch ; a steam-boat from Leith touches at it once a-week ; and a splendid vessel of this description, intended to trade between London and the upper towns of the Moray Frith, (Cro- marty among the rest,) is now in course of building. The town has its post-office, from which letters are sent once a-day to join the mail at Inverness ; and there has lately been established in it a branch of the Commercial Bank of Scotland, which promises to be of much advantage to the trading interests of the district. Ecclesiastical State. — Prior to the Reformation there were no fewer than six chapels in the parish, but a low broken wall and a few green mounds now form their only remains, — even the very names of three of the number have perished. Two of the others were dedicated to St Duthac and St Bennet, and two fine springs on which even time himself has been unable to effect any change, come bubbling out in the vicinity of the ruins, and bear the names of their respective saints. Of the last and most entire, which is still known as the chapel of St Regulus, it is said that there once belonged to it a valuable historical record, — the work, probably, of some literary monk or hermit, — wrhich at the Reformation was carried away to France by the priest The parish church, a true Presbyterian edifice, is situated in the eastern part of the town. Its first minister was a Mr Robert Williamson, whose initials may still be seen on a flat triangular stone, which bears date 1593, and 16 ROSS AND CROMARTY. whose name occurs oftener than once in Calderwood. We learn from the historian, that *^ Jesuits having libertie to passe thorough the countrey in 1583, during the time of the Earie of Huntlie's lieutenantry, great coldness of religion entered in Ross;'' and that by an act of council passed five years after, Mr Robert Wil- liamson was among the number empowered to urge matters to an extremity against them. Few parishes have been so fortunate in their clergymen as Cromarty. Since the days of Episcopacy, when its excellent and honest pastor, a Mr Hugh Anderson, was eject- ed from his charge, and a curate thrust into his place, there has not been a single instance of the induction of a minister in oppo- sition to the wishes of the people. All its clergymen, too, have been hard-working men of the evangelical school ; and it seems a natural consequence that there are at present not half-a-dozen dissenters in all its population, and not more than two persons op- posed to the principle of church establishments. The minister's stipend is 16 chalders. The glebe, which contains about five acres, has been valued at L. 15 per annum. Education, Poor, Friendly Societies, — The parish is amply fur- nished with the means of instruction. It has, like every other, its proper parochial school, furnished with all the legal accommoda- tions. A society school, in which Gaelic is taught, has been sta- tioned in the upper part of it for the last quarter of a century. Two qther schools have been opened in the town by masters who de- pend solely on the fees ; and a free school, taught on the system of Sheriff Wood, together with a female school, have been es- tablished in it for the last six years, by a Society of the place. There are one or two other schools besides; and a Sabbath school, which seems to have done more for the manners and morals of females in the lower ranks than any of the others, is taught by the ladies of the place. Our farmers and mechanics (in the main an intelligent race, and strikingly marked by those traits of character which are said to be peculiar to the lowland Scotch) seem fully alive to the benefits of education, — but these cannot be appreciated unless they be known ; and the poor fisher- men of the place, whose perilous and uncertain profession has a tendency to keep them ignorant, and who have been both dis- heartened and crippled in their means by the late failure of the herring fishery, are much more careless in availing themselves of its advantages. The poor of Cromarty, partly from the superior amount of CROMARTY. 17 the regular contributions made in the parish, and partly through legacies bequeathed for their support^ are more largely pro- vided for than the poor of most of the neighbouring districts; but it has been observed that every new addition to their funds has had the effect of adding less to their comforts than to their number. There is a continual influx of strangers who settle in the outer skirts in the parish, and who, after residing in it for the legal term, have recourse for support to its Session ; and that ex- cellent spirit of independence Which so ennobled the Scottish poor of the last age, and inspired them with so wholesome a dread of being indebted to aught save their own exertions, seems to be fast evaporating under the influence of a lower toned morality than that which characterized our fathers. In some degree, however, the spirit still survives among the more intelligent of the people ; and we owe to it the establishment of several friendly societies, which have the merit of ministering to the wants of the individuals which compose them, when overtaken by age or sickness, without trenching on their self-respect. One of these in particular, ** The Cromarty Friendly Society," which has been established since 1801, has distributed for the last ten years from L. 90 to L. 100 annually, among decayed and ailing members. The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 150; and the average annual amount of contributions for their relief is L. 172. The amount arising from church collections for the year ending April last was L. 70 : the amount of voluntary assessments for the year 1835, was L. 27, 9s. Sd. The annual amount from alms or legacies, seat-rents, mortcloth, &c L. 75. General Remarks. The people of Cromarty in general eat and dress rather better in the present day, than at the time of the last Statistical Account. Their employments, too, though affected by occasional depres- sions, are in the main less interrupted ; they work harder, are more ingenious, and more freed from the influence of superstition; their information embraces a wider range ; they are better acquainted with the principles of agriculture and of trade ; and they have learned to identify their interests as a body with those of the people everywhere. Their intelligence, too, is of a different cast from that of their fathers, and derived from a very opposite source; it is much less peculiar to them as Scotchmen and Presbyterians. Formerly, when there were comparatively few books and no peri- odicals in this part of the country, there was but one way in which ROSS and CROMARTY. B 18 ROSS AND CROMARTY. a man could learn to think. His mind became the subject of some serious impression ; he applied earnestly to his Bible and the stand- ards of the church ; and in the contemplation of the most import- ant of all concerns his newly awakened faculties received their first exercise. And hence the peculiar tone of his politics, and the exclu- sive character of the liberty for which he deemed it his duty to con- tend. Hence, too, the nature of his influence in the humble sphere in which he moved ; an influence which the constitution of his church, from her admission of lay members to deliberate in her courts, and to direct her discipline, tended powerfully to increase ; it was not more intellectual than moral, nor moral than intellectual. He was respected not only as one of the best, but also as one of the most intelligent men of the parish, and impressed the tone of his own character on that of his contemporaries. But a thorough, though noiseless revolution has taken place, — new sources of intel- ligence have been opened up, — it is the newspaper and the maga- zine, not the Catechism and the Confession of Faith, that are now stereotyped on the public mind ; and the older and better source, under the influence of causes which it might prove a melancholy, but no uninstructive task to trace, seems to have lost much of its efficacy. But on questions so open to prejudice, there must ob- tain an immense variety of opinion ; almost every one would hold the balance after his own fashion, and decide differently regarding the result ; nor is the subject one of those which can be discussed in a single paragraph, nor by a common pen. September 1836. PARISH OF NIGG. PRESBYTERY OF TAIN, SYNOD OF ROSS.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The derivation of the name of this parish from Neuk or Nook (a corner) seems improbable. In some old records of the parish, the name is spelled Wig and Wigg. It is probably, there- fore, of the same origin as the names of the parishes of Uig and Wick. Bailey, in his Etymological Dictionary says, that Wich or Vich is a Saxon word for bay or harbour. • Drawn up by the late incumbent, the Rev. Lewis Rose, now minister of Duke Street Church, Glasgow. NIGG. 19 Extent J 8^c. — The parish is situated in 57°, 44', north latitude; and 4° west longitude ; and forms the most southern point of the district called Easter Ross. It is nearly 6 miles in length ; from 2 to 3 miles in breadth; and contains about 14 square miles. It is bounded on the south-east by the Moray Frith ; on the south and west by the Cromarty Frith ; and on the north by the parishes of Logie Easter and Fearn. Topographical Appearances^ — About one-third of its extent con- sists of what is called the Hill of Nigg.* This hill is about five miles in length and one in breadth ; it extends along the shore of the Moray Frith, from the north Sutor of Cromarty (the southern extremity,) to the farm of Shandwick (the north-east extremi- ty,) and varies in height from 300 to 500 feet. The rock over- hanging the shore is generally 300 feet in perpendicular height ; in many parts covered with ivy trees of wonderful size, and stud- ded with caves and fissures, which must be seen in order to be ad- mired. From the highest part of the hill, nine counties may be seen by the naked eye, when the state of the atmosphere is favour- able, viz. Caithness, Sutherland, Ross, Cromarty, Inverness, Nairn, Moray, Banfi*, and Perth. The soil of this portion of the parish is generally poor, cold, and wet. The greater part has been plant- ed with Scotch firs, which thrive or fail according to the favourable or unfavourable circumstances in which they are placed. All the inhabitants are comprised in twelve families. The remaining two-thirds of the territorial extent of the parish consist of a naturally fertile slope on the north-west side of the hill, and an equally fertile plain betwixt the termination of the slo]ie and the boundaries of the parishes of Logie Easter and Fearn. Much has no doubt been done, of late years, by various proprietors in the way of improving this extensive slope and plain ; but still much remains to be done. Roads, and drains, and fences and trenching are required. In few cases has good taste in planning farms and dividing fields been hitherto shewn, and in as few have the cottages of the poor been located and built with a regard to cleanliness and freedom from damp. Indeed, the writer is con- strained to state, that, good as is the soil of this part of the parish, there is not a spot of it on which the eye can look with unmingled pleasure. The parish is inferior to none in Scotland in soil and other natural advantages. Why should it be at once proverbial for its fertility, and a bye-word for its ruggedness ?% * It was called of old the Bbhop*s Forest. 20 ROSS AND CROMARTY. The Sands of Nigg (a name given to a large bay of the Cro- marty Frith) belong partly to the parish of Nigg and partly to the parish of Logie Easter, a small rivulet (named the Pot) being the boundary. They are about one mile in breadth at the east end, and two at the west. During high water, and more especially at spring tides, they are covered by the sea to the depth of from 4 to 8 feet ; but at low water they are dry, and eminently useful. Here are to be found in abundance, in their respective seasons, cockles and mussels, and flounders and sand-eels; .and it is here, likewise, where the fishers of Nigg, Fearn, Cromarty, and many of those of Banffshire find the bait wherewith they catch cod and had- dock and whiting. On the Nigg side of the sands, vessels of light tonnage discharge cargoes of coals, lime, and slates, and take in tim- ber, potatoes, &c. There is no harbour excepting the level sand ; and it is only by following the channel of the Pot, that vessels can get, even at high water, a sufficient depth for their purposes. Pre- viously to the importation of lime from the south, the only lime used for building in this country was made of shells dug out of the sands of Nigg. The pits caused by this operation gradually be- came dangerous quicksands, and various individuals have lost their lives in them. But now quicksands are unknown ; and there is no danger to the traveller who keeps to the eastward of a line drawn betwixt Tarbat House and the church of Nigg. To the westward of this line, however, there are several deep pits in the Pot, in which several strangers have been drowned within the last few years. There is one, in particular, named PcMl nan Ron (the Seal's Pool,) fatal to every one that touches its waters. Climate. — In the more inhabited and fruitful parts of the parish, the climate is comparatively mild and warm, though damp. The insularity of the situation, and innumerable spring wells, and the shelter afforded by the hill from the east wind, have a considerable effect on the temperature of the atmosphere. It is no uncommon thing to find, in winter and spring, the roads quite soft in the parish of Nigg in the morning, while the roads are frozen and slippery in the neighbouring parishes, not many miles distant. Diseases. — Nervous disorders, and cough and asthma, are the prevailing complaints, and seem occasioned, in a great measure, by the damp of the houses, and the poor quality of the food. It is observable, that cough and asthma prevail most on the north-west face of the hill, where there is no morning sun, and where the damp oozing out of the ground is great. There arc no instances, now NIGG. 21 »i-days, of extraordinary longevity, — though a greater than ordinary proportion of the inhabitants arrive at a good old age, varying from seventy to eighty-five years. Epidemic diseases are not common. Hydrography, — The Moray Frith bounds the parish on the south-east side. The Cromarty Frith bounds the parish on the south and west sides. The Bay of Cromarty has the appearance of an inland lake, and is a remarkably safe &nd commodious place of anchorage for vessels of all sizes. It was known to the Romans as Partus Salutisr The springs of the parish, which are very numerous, are all pe- rennial, and excellent, though various in their qualities. Strong chalybeates are not uncommon. Sulphureous springs are likewise found, and even some containing a small quantity of magnesia. Of the latter description, there is at Wester Rarichie a very copious spring named in Gaelic Sul na ba, the cow's eye. There is a tra- dition that it flowed in olden times through the trunk of a tree that grew about 400 yards to the south-east of the present site, and that some injury or insult having been offered to this natural pump, the water disappeared, and afterwards came forth as Sul na ba. While the water discharged itself through the tree, many diseased persons from distant parts of the country flocked to it for healing. It does undoubtedly possess some medicinal qualities, operating as an aperient. * Half a mile to the eastward of Sul na ba is a spring, noted as a favourite of the fairies, before they were driven away from the parish. If, as is said to have happened in days of yore, any of the little people stole a child from a parent of the race of Adam, and left a puny bantling in its place, the child of the human parent might be got back by leaving the elfin near the well, late in the evening, and perhaps offering some presents to the King of Fairy- land. Half a mile to the eastward of this latter well, may be found, at the foot of the rock on the shore of the Moray Frith, a well dig- nified with the name of Tobar na Slainte, the well of health or salvation. The occasion of its having received this appellation is * It would appenr from the following extract from the records of the kirk-session, that even in comparatively modern tiraesi this well was much resorted to, and Sabbath profanation the consequence. ** July 7th 1707. In regard many out of the parish of Fearn and several other parishes within the sheriffdom, profane the Sabbath by coming to the well of Rarichics, John and William Gallie, &c. are appointed to Uke inspection every Saturday evening and Sunday morning of such as come to the well, and to report the same accordingly." 22 ROSS AND CROMARTY. unknown. It seems now a days as much neglected as that well of spiritual salvation, of which the Evangelical Prophet sweetly sung of old in the land of Judah. In the centre of the parish, near the Black Hill, is a well named John the Baptist's well. But why it has been so called, none can tell. At Dunskeathness, close to the ferry of Cromarty, there is a draw-well in the sand, the water of which deposits a siliceous sediment. Geology. — Professor Sedgwick of Cambridge, and Mr Murchi- son of London, examined the geological structure of this parish and coast a few years ago, and gave to the public the result of their in- quiries in the Transactions of the Geological Society of London. Last year, Messrs Anderson of Inverness favoured the public with a very good essay on the same subject in the ^^ Guide to the High- lands :" and Mr Hugh Miller of Cromarty has, in his " Scenes and Legends of the North of Scotland," given an interesting and beau- tifully descriptive, at the same time highly poetical chapter on the various processes, whereby the present structures of rocks, and hills» and vales, have been made to spring out of the original mass of chaotic elements. But all these learned authorities may speak for themselves ; and in the meantime the following sketch by a novice may suffice. A scientific one is not attempted. l5if. The more elevated part of the parish must at one time have been an island, — as throughout the whole extent of the neck of land betwixt the Cromarty bay to the west, and the village of Shandwick on the shore of the Moray Frith to the east, the substratum contains a layer of sea shells and shingle, mingled with such organic remains of land vegetable matter as the neighbouring shores may be sup- posed to have added. Even at Fearn, which is two miles distant from the present shores of either frith, the skeleton of a cetaceous animal has been found. ,2«?, This island must, at a previous period, have formed a con- tinuation of the Black isle, as an examination of the submarine strata betwixt the Sutors will testify. The disruption may have been caused by an agency comparatively local. dr^ The rocks of the parish may be described as follows : In an ascending order, i. The north Sutor consists of granitic gneiss, much foliated and nearly vertical ; conglomerate of rolled pieces of various size and composition ; white sandstone alternating with schistose limestone ; and red sandstone forming a terrace on the north-west side of the hill, from one extremity to the other. The NIGG. 23 two Strata of sandstone are highly inclined, and stretch in the same direction as the hill. 2. Passing along the top of the hill towards the north-east, the gneiss is succeeded by conglomerate, and this again by sandstone highly inclined, and subsiding at Shandwick, — where the different strata may be classed as follows, in an ascend- ing order, viz. 1. Hard red sandstone. 2. Soft white sandstone, containing coal apparently of woody origin, several veins about a foot broad, appearing just at the surface, and not easily distinguish- ed on account of the shingle. 3. Greenish clay passing into sand- stone, and containing fragments of shells and impressions of bivalves. 4. Hard greenstone containing many belenmites. 5. A series of shales and limestones. The strata are inclined at an angle of about 30% in the form of a curve, with the chord towards the hill, and dipping towards the south-east, under the sea. The shells are chiefly ammonites, be- lemnites, and GrypluBa gigantea and GrypJuea incurva. Nigg is very barren of minerals. Iron enters into the composi- tion of the gneiss in some places, and ironstone is found associated with the lias beds. Lime appears in the form of a crystallized carbonate in small veins at Shandwick, and of stalactites on the roofs and sides of the caves ; and when associated with some of the springs, petrifies the mosses, over which their waters flow. Garnet is, frequently after a storm at sea, spread in small fragments over a considerable extent of the shores, and so thickly, as to give the sand a deep purple colour. Soils. — The soils are various, and apparently transported. The west end of the parish, which has a very bleak appearance, consists of light sand. But a foot or two under the sand, there is a deep layer of fine loam intermixed with blue clay ; and there is a tradi- tion, on which some dependence may be placed, that the covering of sand is not of older date than the seventeenth century ; and that previously to that period, the west end of the parish of Nigg, which is now a sandy desert, was a fertile field. The sand is said to have performed its destructive work in the course of one night, as hap- pened in the cases of Culbin in Morayshire, and Morichmore near Tain. The wickedness of the laird of Dunskeath is said to have been the occasion of this calamity. In various parts of the parish, the soil is clayey. But the greater part of the arable land consists of remarkably fine black loam on red sandstone, the loam varying from one to four feet in depth. Zoobffg.— The neighbouring friths abound with fish of va- 24 ROSS AND CROMARTY. rious kinds, such as salmon, turbot, cod, haddock, mackerel, whiting, cuddies, crowners, soles, flounders, skate, dog-fish, and herrings in their season. The rocky shore abounds likewise with crabs. There were many lobsters fifty years ago ; but the greater part of them were then conveyed to London, and now the race is al- most unknown, as it is only once in a season, perhaps, that a gour- mand can have the pleasure of seeing one at his table. There are a few oysters of large size in the Cromarty Frith. But they are seldom dredged for, and do not promise to multiply. It is difficult to account for the rarity of oysters now, when it is consi- dered, that under the soil in some of the lower grounds of the parish, there are to be found multitudes of oyster shells. Botany. — Among the rarer British plants growing within the range of the parish, may be mentioned Draba incanOf Geranium sanffuineum^ Juncus balticus^ and Oxytropis nralensis. The lofty and perpendicular rocks may, however, possess others, which men of ordinary nerves have not the courage to approach. II. — Civil History. The first era to which reference can be made, in the history of this parish, is the tenth and eleventh centuries, — in which the Da- nish invasions took place. There is a farm on the top of the rock named to this day Ca an righ, the King's Path, or the King's Cave ; and immediately below this farm at the foot of the rock, is to be seen a cave, named the King's Cave ; and from it, there is a path cut in the face of the rock up to the top, named " the King's Path." Half a mile to the north-east of the cave and path, there is a little natural har- bour, named Port an righ, the King's Harbour. Within half a mile of this harbour, there is in the sea a sunken rock about a mile in length, named the King's Sons.* At Easter Rarichie, near the east end of the parish, there is a detached hillock, said to have been a Danish fort, and it still bears evidence of its having been applied to some warlike purpose; for round the top edge of it there appears something like the remains of a wall or rampart. There is a tradition, which may possibly be connected with the names and localities here noticed, that a daughter of the royal Scandinavian having married the Thane of Ross, was so ill used * This rock is said to have got its name from the circumstance of three sous of the King of the Sea having been wrecked on it, and drowned. Their bodies were afterwards^ found and buried, one at Hilton, one at Shandwick, and one at Nigg ; and there is, at each of these places, a monumental stone, covered on lK>th sides with hieroglyph ical sculpture, and said to have been erected to the memory of the royal princes. These stones shall be afterwards described. 4 NIGG. 25 by her husband, that she ran to complain to her father, and that he and his three valiant sons, (whose fate has already been mentioned) and all his mighty men of war, came to avenge the cause of the injured countess. Dunskeath. — The next era in the history of this parish, of which there is any account, is the year 1 179, — when (according to SirDavid Dalrymple of Hailes, in his Annals of Scotland,) William, sumam- ed the Lion, King of Scotland, caused a castle to be built on the top of the rock fronting Cromarty. The site of this castle may be still distinguished, but nothing more. The object of its erec- tion is said to have been the suppression of robbers ; and from this, it is supposed to have got its name Dunsc^th in Gaelic, Dunskeath in English. The surrounding farm is still called Castlecraig. The Abbey of Feam was built much about the same time with the Castle of Dunskeath ; and thus civil and ecclesiasti- cal power were united to subdue and civilize the wild inhabitants of the country. Bishops of Boss. — From the twelfth till the sixteenth century, there is no land-mark in the history of the parish. But in the lat- ter century, mention is made of the Bishops of Ross ; and it would appear, that their Lordships, before and after the Reformation, had a summer residence immediately behind the site of the present church, and that the whole of the parish, with the exception of the estate of Dunskeath, formed a bit of glebe for their convenience, Tetnpora mntantur. Even till the final extinction of prelacy in Scot- land, the parish of Nigg was a mensal charge of the Bishops of Ross, and still all the lands of the parish (with the exception already mentioned) pay bishop rents to the Crown. These amount to about L. 200 or L. 300 a-year, according to the fiar prices of vic- tual. But some people maintain, that the King does not always get the justice he gives ; while others with equal authority affirm, that the bishop rents ought not to go into the coffers of the Crown at all, but should be devoted to the promotion of those sacred ob- jects, for which bishops or ministers were first appointed by the sole king and head of the church. Parochial History. — About the middle of the seventeenth cen/- tury, a Sir John Sinclair, in Caithness, became proprietor of the lands of Culiss and Wester Rarichie. This led to the introduc- tion into the parish, of various individuals of the name of Gunn, from the boundary that separates Caithness from Sutherland. The people of the parish called them " Na Gallich," the CaitKwess 26 ROSS AND 13R0MARTY, men ; and from this casual appellation, arose the name Galliey which has been for nearly 200 years a common and rather respect- able name among the inhabitants. The name is now, however, much on the decrease. A Hugh Rose of Kilravock, in Nairnshire, married a daughter of the fore-mentioned Sir John Sinclair, and got her father's lands, in the parish of Nigg, as her dowery. Hugh after Hugh possessed them, till about the middle of the eighteenth century ; and as the Gunns had formerly come from Caithness, so did the Roses come from Kilravock, though few of their descendants remain to tell the tale. The lands of Culiss and Rarichie were sold to a gentleman of the name of Ross, who had made a fortune in Poland, and was on that account called Polander Ross. One of the Hugh Roses of Kilravock was sheriff-depute of the counties of Ross and Cromarty in the beginning of the last century, and it was he that instituted the only fair in the parish. Till a few years ago, it was held at Wester Rarichie ; but it is now held at Ankerville^ commonly on the third Tuesday of November. It is named Hugh's Fair, in honour of its founder.* From the end of the seventeenth century till a few years back, the estate of Meikle Pitculzean was the property of Mr John Frazer, minister of Alness, and his descendants. His son, Mr James Frazer, (the author of the celebrated and excellent Treatise on Sanctification, as revealed by Paul in the Epistle to the Ro- mans,) possessed it after his father's death, and having no child- ren, was succeeded in it by his sister, Mrs M' Arthur. These three worthies deserved a better memorial than the present writer can give of their excellence. Their connection with Meikle Pit- culzean brought clansmen to it, and there are consequently thir- teen families of the name of Frazer in the present day within the bounds of the parish. There are two small fishing villages in the west end of the pa- rish, Balnabruach, and Balnapaling, each containing nearly twenty * Previously to KilinTock's marriage with Sir Jobn Sinclair's daughter, there was an immigration of Roses to this parish, caused by the following circumstance, which tradition still preser\'es. A laird of Kilravock, it is said, or some genUeman nearly connected wiih him, and of the same name, had mcrricd twice, and three sons of the first marriage had conceived a strong dislike to their stepmother— so strong, indeed, that they barbarously put an end to her existence. The young ruffians immediately made the best of their way across the ferries, in order to escape the vengeance they deserved, and though pursuit was instant and zealous, perhaps, it was unavailing. A young maiden, in the first house they entered in Ross.shire, became enamoured of one of the young men ; and by this circumstance, they succeeded in finding friends and protection. Some of their descendants are to be found to this day in the parish of Nigg. NIGG. 27 families of fishermen; and it is remarkable, that among them there are only three surnames, Ross, Skinner, and M'Leod. The original seat of these colonies was at the foot of the hill, imme- diately below Dunskeath castle. But there is no plausible tradi- tion as to the time or occasion of their having come to the parish* At Shandwick, in the east end of the parish, there is a colony of fishermen originally from the same stock. Vass, Skinner, and Rcs3 are their most common names. The principal occupiers of the soil at present are, generally speaking, recent immigrants, and the most of their numerous farm- servants are entire strangers. There are few, if any, individuals in the parish whose progenitors were in it, two hundred years ago. Three important events have occurred at various periods since 1694, that have had marked eflects on the identity and character of the population. The first of these was the seven years famine betwixt 1694 and 1701. During that awful period, many died of want, the rich became poor, the lands changed their occupants, and the whole face of society was changed. It is to be remark- ed, however, that notwithstanding the sufierings endured for so long a time, the morals of the people do not seem to have im- proved in consequence. On the contrary, it would appear that, during a few years after the famine, vices of the most abominable kinds prevailed to an almost incredible degree, — as the records of the kirk-session testify. The second event is the cruel and unchristian settlement of a minister, in the year 1756. The people who had been highly reform- ed, and elevated in mind and character under the ministry of his predeceSsor, Mr John Balfour, almost unanimously resisted the set- tlement for three years, and spent L. 500 in law expenses. They subsequently became true Seceders under the ministry of Mr Bu- chanan from Perthshire, and continued so for a considerable time ; and though now the parish church be full, and the parish minister has no reason to complain of want of people, no Christian philan- thropist can help bewailing the circumstance that turned away from the church many of the Lord's people ; neither can he cease to de- plore the extremities to which many of their descendants have gone, and the blighting influence which division has produced upon the charities of life. The third event is the introduction of the large farm system, about forty J ears ago. The improvement of the soil was much required at that time, as it still is. But its improvement may be carried on, at an expense of morals and human comfort which, wo '^^>\- 28 ROSS AND CROMARTY. niary advantage can counterbalance. Many families were driven from their homes, a few strangers were introduced in their room, and poverty succeeded in the train of almost all the actors and sufferers in the scene. The writer is passionately fond of improv- ing and beautifying the face of the earth. But he conceives that the earth, though beautiful as the garden of Eden, would be but a waste without moral beauty, and that those proprietors, who ex- pel the inhabitants from their properties are depriving themselves of some of the highest enjoyments in life — the luxury of doing good, and the pleasure of being surrounded by a moral, a grateful, and a happy population. Land'oumers. — The land-owners are, Charles Cockburn Ross of Shandwick ; Sir Charles Ross, Bart of Balnagown ; Robert Mitchell of Bayfield ; Hugh Ross of Cromarty ; William Murray of Westfield ; Mrs Taylor of Nigg and James Taylor, Esq. her husband ; and George Ross of Pitcalnie. Antiquities. — The only antiquities in the parish are the two monumental stones already mentioned, the one at Shandwick, the other at Nigg. The stone at Hilton is in the parish of Feam. The one at Shandwick is called " Clack a CTiarridh" the stone of the burying-ground. " Carridh'* is the Gaelic word for a burial-place ; and it was a mistake, in the former Statistical Ac- count, to call this stone " Clach a Charraig," the stone of the rock. It is about 8 feet high, 4 broad, and 1 thick. It has been often described and admired by the lovers of antique curiosities. Mr Hugh Miller says, " that it bears on the side which corre- sponds to the obliterated surface of the other, the figure of a large cross, wrought into an involved and intricate species of fret work, which seems formed by the twisting of myriads of snakes. In the spaces of the sides of the shaft, there are huge, clumsy-looking animals, the one resembling an elephant, the other a lion ; over each of these a St Andrew seems leaning forward from his cross, and on the reverse of the obelisk, the sculpture represents proces- sions, hunting scenes, and combats." The ground around was, for ages, employed as a burying-place. But it has not been used for that purpose, within the last fifty years. The stone in the churchyard of Nigg is very similar to that at Shandwick, though not so large. It now stands fixed to the east- ern gable of the church ; but it stood near the gate till about the year 1725, when it was thrown down by a remarkable blast of wind, which, at the same time, threw down* the belfry of the church, and broke the bell. The top, like the pediment of a portico, is NIGG. 29 of a triangular shape. On the one side of this upper compart- ment, are two priest-like figures, attired in long garments, and fur- nished each with a book. They incline forward, as if intent on read- ing and devotion. Betwixt them, is a small circular table, which may represent an altar; and above it there is the representation of a dove in the act of descending to carry away the sacrifice offered. It has a circular cake in its bill. Under the table, ^wo dogs of large size and ill-boding appearance, seem restrained by the priestly incantations of the human figures, from executing their hellish purposes. Under the triangular top, and on the same side with the hieroglyphics al- ready mentioned, the surface contains the figure of a cross beset with serpents. The spaces above and below the arms of the cross are divided into rectangular compartments of mathematical exactness. These, according to Mr Hugh Miller's account, " are embossed into rows of circular knobs, covered over as if by basket-work, with the intricate foldings of myriads of snakes ; and which may be ei- ther deemed to allude to the serpent and apple of the fall — thus placed in no inapt neighbourhood to the cross ; or to symbolize (for even the knobs may be supposed to consist wholly of serpents) that of which the serpent has ever been held emblematic, and which we cannot regard as less appositely introduced — a complex wisdom or an incomprehensible eternity. The hieroglyphics of the opposite side are in lower relief, and though the various fret work of the border is executed in a style of much elegance, the whole seems to owe less to the care of the sculptor. The centre is occupied by what; from its size, we may deem the chief figure of the group ; it is that of a man attired in long gar- ments, caressing a fawn ; and directly fronting him, there are the figures of a lamb and a harp. The whole is perhaps emblemati- cal of peace, and may be supposed to tell the same story with the upper hieroglyphic of the reverse. In the space beneath, there is the figure of a man furnished with cymbals, which he seems clash- ing with much glee, and that of a horse and its rider, surrounded by animals of the chase, while in the upper part of the stone, there are dogs, deer, and armed huntsmen, and surmounting the whole, an eagle or raven." So far Mr Miller's description. The present writer has nothing to add, — except, that he considers the cross side of the stone as intended to emblematize the fall and salvation of man ; and the reverse side to represent the Scandinavian heaven. It is well known that the belief of all ages and countries, has been, with respect to the future world of happi- 30 ROSS AND CROMARTY. ness, that its inhabitants are employed with full delight in those exercises and pursuits, which constituted their enjoyment in the present. The barbarous Scandinavians were no exception to this general rule. Even the most enlightened Christians have the same belief with respect to themselves. If they delight in serving and praising God on earth, they hope to be for ever happy in the same employments above. The only relics of antiquity, known to have been dug up in the parish, may be described in Mr Hugh Miller's words : ^^ Not more than sixty years ago, a bank of blown sand, directly under the northern Sutor, which had been heaped over the soil ages before, was laid open by the winds of a stormy winter, when it was discovered that the nucleus on which it had formed, was composed of the bones of various animals of the chase, and the horns of deer. It is not much more than twelve years since, there were dug up in the same sandy tract two earthern urns, — the one filled with ashes and fragments of half-burned bones, the other with bits of a black bituminous-looking stone, somewhat re- sembling jet, which had been fashioned into beads, and little flat parallelograms, perforated edgewise, with four holes a piece. No- thing could be ruder than the workmanship. The urns were clum- sily modelled by the hand, unassisted by a lathe ; the ornaments rough and unpolished, and still bearing the marks of the tool, re- sembled nothing of modern production, except perhaps the toys which herd-boys sometimes amuse their leisure in forming with the knife." One of the urns is now in the possession of James Taylor, Esq. of Nigg. In the brow of the north Sutor, fronting Cromarty, there was once, according to tradition, a wondrous gem, which occasionally in the night season emitted a light more bril- liant than the zeolite of Iceland, or the carbuncle of the Wardhill of Hoy. But it has long since disappeared, and not a crown in Europe seems to possess it. Modem Buildings. — The only building worthy of mention is the mansion-house of Bayfield. It was built about forty-five years ago, and no house in the country can exceed it in point of com- fort But it has an awkward appearance, owing to the door front- ing the north, and the naked and unimproved appearance of the. surrounding grounds. Parochial Registers. — The session records of the parish com- mence on 17th December 1705. They have not in general been well kept, and some of them were accidentally burnt, many years NIGG. 31 ago. They consist of three volumes. ' There were sessional re- cords of an older date : but they have been lost. III. — Population. The earliest census of the population is that procured by Dr Webster in the middle of the last century. It was then 1261. Population in 1801, 1443 181 L, 1:^9 1821, 14.S6 1831, 1404 There are three fishing villages, which contain 420 souls. All the rest of the population are more or less connected with agricul- ture ; and even the fishers spend a considerable part of their time in raising potatoes. The number of landed proprietors is seven in all ; of these three reside in the parish ; and. there is no rental under L. 350. The people are not remarkable for any personal qualities. But it may be observed of the fishermen, that though their marriages are, and have been from time immemorial, confined to themselves, like those of the royal families of Europe, they are in general a fine-looking set of men, and give no evidence of deterioration in any way. Rheumatism and scrofula are, however, common among them. There are no blind, nor deaf and dumb persons in the parish. The only fatuous individual is a well-known one, named Angus^ a native of Sutherland, who has been for many years a favourite re- sidenter in the kind mansion-house of Nigg. He is a curiosity in his way, preferring a halfpenny to a shilling, — delighting in solitary rambling among the tombs, — incapable of comprehending one ab- stract idea, and yet a perfect pattern of innocence, devotion, and love to all that is good. During the last three years, there were 3 illegitimate births in the parish. Languages. — The Gaelic* language is that generally spoken ; but the English has made rapid progress of late. There is no- thing peculiar in the habits of the people. On Sabbath days, they are all well dressed, and on other days their dress corre- sponds with their employments. Though their lot in the world be not of the most enviable description, in as far as bodily comforts and intellectual improvement are concerned, they exhibit a moral * The Gaelic of the parish is not classical, though it cannot be said to be bad. As. from time immemorial, there have been occasions immigrations from various parts of the north of Shetland, the language of the people has been modified, and conse- quently their Gaelic and English have little of a peculiar provincialism in them. 32 ROSS AND CROMARTY. character superior, perhaps, to that of any other parish which can be named. During the last twenty years, not an individual connected with the parish has been suspected of a felonious action. The people generally read the Bible and have family worship ; and few of them seem altogether indifferent about the ordinances of religion. The parish became noted, betwixt the years 1740 and 1750, for an effusion of the Holy Spirit along with the preaching of the Word, under the ministry of Mr John Balfour. A chosen generation then appeared, men of* God and of prayer. There were a Donald Roy and an Andrew Roy, a John Noble and a Nicholas Vass, and others, whose names may be forgotten on earth, but whose record is on high. Vital godliness prevailed, — the day and house of the Lord were revered, — the command- ments of God were obeyed, and the character of the people afford- ed a wonderful contrast to the common abominations that charac- terized the preceding generation. The records of the kirk-ses- sion for the thirty years succeeding 1705, while they afford abun* dant evidence of the zeal and faithfulness of ministers and elders in checking vice of every description, are disgusting in the extreme, as exhibiting a frequency and a grossness of vice among the peo- ple, which the succeeding generation would shudder to contem- plate. And yet, be it added, the favourable change was produced by the blessing of the Holy Spirit upon the Heaven-appointed means, which an authoritative ministry and eldership were inde- fatigable in employing. Be it added, further, with shame and sorrow, that many of the present descendants of the ^^ chosen ge- neration" already mentioned, are busily employed in endeavouring to subvert those institutions which were the means of bringing their fathers from darkness to light, and from the power of Satan into the kingdom of God. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There are about 2500 acres in tillage; 1000 which might be profitably cultivated, but now lying waste ; 100 acres in undivided common, and 1000 under fir wood. The full- grown woodis'sawed and sold in the neighbourhood, or shipped to Caithness. The thinnings are sent to Newcastle as coal props. The woods, however, are but of secondary consideration. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is about L. 1, 15s. per acre. At Castlecraig, an ox may be grazed during five months of the summer and harvest, for L. 1. A milch cow, however, is charged double. A full-grown ewe may be grazed for NIGG. 33 the year for 5s.| though it can hardly be said that sheep are taken in for grazing. Wages. — Ploughmen get each per annum a house ; from 7 to 10 barrels of coals, (equal to from 10 to 15 imperial measure ;) 6 bolls of oatmealy (each 9 stones Dutch weight;) 5 bolls of potatoes (each boll being in bulk equal to 2 quarters of wheat;) a Scotch pint of skimmed milk, (equal to an English quart) every day of the sum- mer and harvest; and from L. 6 to L. 7 of money. A thrasher with the flail gets, per boll of wheat, Is.; of barley, lOd.; and of oats, 9d. A day-labourer gets Is. per diem. Masons build for L. 1, 6s. per rood, the materials being provided. Carpenters, smiths, tailors, shoe- makers, &c make the best bargain they can with their employers, and it is not believed that their average daily income can exceed 2s. The most of them would be very glad to compound for Is. 6d. if they got constant employment The clothes used are generally bought in shops. The old weavers have given up their trade. Live^SttKk. — There are few sheep in the parish, and these con- sist of Southdown, Cheviot, and the small country kind. In the rocks of Castlecraig, there are upwards of 100 goats, feeding on the herbs, which no other quadruped can approach. There is lit^ tie attention paid to the rearing of black cattle. In the end of har- vest, the farmers buy young Highland stock to eat the straw in win- terand spring; and when summer arrives, they conmionly sell them, if they can procure remunerating prices. Great milkers are not to be found. Fresh butter sells at 9d. per lb. ; cheese at 6s. per stone, and warm milk at dd« per Scotch pint. The parish was noted (not many years since) for the abundance and excellence of its barley. Now, however, there is little barley raised. It was no uncommon thing for the barley to weigh 56 lb. the bushel, and when distilled, to give 3 Scots gallons (24 English quarts) per boll, of good whisky. Chevalier barley has been introduced within the last twelve months, and promises to become a staple article of pro- duce. Angus and potato oats are quite common, and the Hope- toun oats are coming into fashion. Wheat, however, is the far- mer's main stay, and the quality of it is in general excellent, as its quantity is great But it must be observed, that, owing to the high xents, the low price of wheat of late years, and the little demand for other kinds of farm produce, the land has been too much scourged by wheat crops. A four-shift rotation is common, and even a three-shift Beans are much attended to now by high and low. ROSS AND CROMARTY. C 34 ROSS AND CROMARTY. A good deal of lime and sea-ware are used as manure. Multitudes of fishers and others are much occupied from the middle of April till the middle of May, in providing sea-ware and planting potatoes. In the beginning of June, they cab them, and two or three weeks afterwards they take away the weeds. Then they hoe them twice^ and in the month of October raise them. The people pay from L. 3 to L. 4 per acre, besides manure and labour to the tenants for po«> tato laod. A few years ago, they were induced to raise potatoes in great quantities, in order to feed swine for the market. But now the price of pigs is so low, that comparatively few are reared. Tur- nips of all kinds are quite common, and bone manure is partially used for them with much success. The horses are generally of a superior breed, and well fed. Draining, trenching, and em* banking have been carried on to a considerable extent. About eighteen years ago, a large embankment was formed at the side of the sands on the Bayfield estate, and 120 acres of land re- claimed. But the embankment was not properly constructed at first, though the expense was great ; and consequently it is now fast giving way. There are many drains, and some of a large size, but many more are required. The leases are commonly for nineteen years. The farms vary in size from 30 to 400 acres. One far- mer has three farms containing in all about 1000 acres. There are other five farms of 200 acres each, and two farms of 100 each. The most of the rest are on a smaller scale. The farm-buildings are in general good, particularly at Nigg, where there is an excel- lent square of offices, built by the late proprietor. There are four thrashing-mills driven by water, — one at Nigg, one at Bayfield, one at Culiss, and one at Pitcalnie. There are three meal-mills. But they seldom have water in summer or harvest, and the multure payable is so high, that they are avoided as much as possible by those who are not thirled to them. The principal obstacles to agricultural improvement are the fol- lowing, viz. 1^^, The two largest estates are strictly entailed under rather pe- culiar conditions, and consequently the encouragement given to im- proving tenants is on too limited a scale. Getting as much rent with as little outlay as possible, is the principle that guides the ma- nagement 2«?, Some of the estates have been for many years under judicial factors, who are restricted to the letter of instnictions arbitrarily and perhaps injudiciously given. 3rf, Some of the farmers made and saved money in very favour- NIOG. 35 able circumstances many years ago, wliile prices were high ; and now they go on ia the ordinary way, careless about improvements. 4thj The roads have been much neglected. Thousands of pounds have been taken from the parish of Nigg to make and repair roads in the parishes of Tarbat and Feam, the three parishes being con- stituted into one district, and the heritors of Tarbat and Fearn taking care of their own interests to the neglect of the parish of Nigg. 5thf There is no encouragement given to cottars to build and im- prove. Their comfort has been too much neglected, and their superiors seem to have foigotten how useful cottars might be ren- dered in cultivating waste ground, if properly directed and en^ couraged. 6th, There is no market for hay, nor much demand for fat cattle; consequently the land is not allowed to lie long enough under lea. Fisheries. — During the last twenty years, about 16 boats have been annually employed in the herring fishing in various parts of the Mo- ray Frith. The herring fishing season is confined to the dog-days. The expense of boats, nets, &c. has been great ; and, though per- haps each man may have, in favourable seasons, averaged above L. 20 of profit, it is qnestionable how far the herring fishing has been in reality a benefit to the parish. It is true, indeed, that many of the fishermen were enabled by their success, occasionally, a few years since, to build nice cottages, and improve their furni- ture (and there was abundance of need ;) but the ordinary fishing for haddocks, cod, &c. was a good deal' neglected, — debt was in many cases incurred, — high ideas were raised, — and now there is a lamentable degree of poverty, in consequence of the almost total failure, for solne years back, of the herring fishing on this part of the coast. There are stake-nets for salmon at Dunskeathness ; but their success is not great, and few lament the failure. The rent is said to be Lf 5. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce i^ised in the parish may be as follows : Grain of aU kinds, - - L. 10600 Potatoes and turnips, - - 2240 Cnltirated hay, ... 1250 Grasing cattle and sheep, - - 850 Gardens and woods, - - 240 Fisheries, .... 1000 L. 16380 Navigation. — There are about 32 large and small boats in the 36 ROSS AND CROMARTY. parish. The larger are used for the herring, and the small for the ordinary fishing. V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUTowns. — Cromarty and Tain are the nearest market- towns. The former is separated from the parish by the Ferry, about a mile broad ; and the latter is six miles distant from the part of the parish that is nearest to it Cromarty and P^rkhill are the post-offices. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is not more than four miles from any extremity of the parish. It appears to have been built in 1626; but it has received several repairs, more especially in 1725 and 1786. It afibrds legal accommodation for 425 per- sons, and all the sittings are free, though formally divided among the heritors. The manse was built about 1758, and repaired fre* quently since. The glebe is 4^ acres, and worth L. 10 of rent. The stipend is 15 chalders, half meal half barley. There are ujv* wards of 1 1 chalders of vacant teinds. There is a dissenting chapel of the United Associate Synod connexion. The minister's salary is said to be L. 120, besides innumerable perquisites, and is paid out of the seat-rents and collections at the door. The chapel does not give any thing to support the poor. It is impossible to state with accuracy the number of Camilies that attend either the Established Church or Dissenting meetings house, as faimilies are in many instances divided. 160 families may, however, be mentioned as belonging to the parish church, aud 120 to the Dissenting meeting-house. 74 is the average number of communicants of the Established Church, of whom there are 18 male heads of families. The collections for the poor vary from L. 10 to L. 12 a-year. About L. 16 may be contributed other* wise to religious and charitable objects. Education. — There is one parish school, which is not well si- tuated for the population, though it is near the centre of the pa* rish. There is likewise a female school endowed with L. 5 a-year by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and there are two unendowed schools. None of them is well attended. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 34; and the amount of school fees less than L.5. He has the legal accommodations. The school fees in all the schools vary from Is. to 3s. 6d. per quarter. But they are seldom well paid, the parents being in general very poor, and many of them perhaps ignorant of the value of educa- tion to their children. Poor and Parochial Funds, — 62 persons receive each from KIBKMICHAEL AND CULLICUDDEN. 37 4s. to lOs. in the year. There is no fund, except L. 20 left by the late Mrs Gair of Nigg. The heritors have of late been induced to give L. 00 a-year to the poor. There seems no indisposition on the part of the poor to take. The kirk-session does not take any concern in the division of what is called the poor's money. Fair, — The only fair in the parish is Hugh's Fair, held in No- vember, for general purposes. It is dying away very fast. Inns. — There are 3 small inns, which are in many cases an ac- oommodation to travellers ; but otherwise they are no blessing. HieL — Coals from Newcastle are the principal fuel for the more opulent and the farm-servants. But whins and broom, and such other fire-wood as can be found, constitute the fuel of the greater part of the population. Coals cost about Is. per imperial barrel, and their quality is seldom good. Miscellaneous Observations. 1^, The tenants do not now, as they did (not many years since) occupy the greater part of the summer in cutting and carrying home peats and turf from the mosses of the parish of Loggie. 2dj There has been a great improvement on the comfort of the houses, and in the dress and habits of the people. 3^ A great many strangers have taken up their abode here, while many former resi- denters have vanished. 4thy The farms are now on a different plan from that on which they formerly were, and the system of farming has been quite changed. Revised September 1836. UNITED PARISH OF KIRKMICHAEL AND CULLICUDDEN. presbytery of CHANONRY, synod of ROSS. THE REV. DONALD SAGE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Of this united ^parish the eastern division is Kirk- Michael. Its Gaelic name is " Kill a' MhichaiW^ or the Cell of St Michael; but this name is by the inhabitants usually given only to the church and burying-ground. The district which the ancient parish of Kirkmichael comprehended is called ^^ Sgir^ c! Mhichailj* or the parish of St Michael. CuUicudden forms the western district of the united parish. Its Celtic Tv^xftft *\% ^\J\ ^^ 38 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Chuddinn or Chuddegin, signifying the Cuddie Creek, — that spe- cies of fish being formerly, though not now, caught in great abund- ance in a small creek on the shore of Cullicndden, and a little to the west of the old church. It is probable, however, that St Martin's, or Kirk Martin, and not CuUicudden, was the name tmginklly of this small but ancient parish. It is still called by the natives Sgire* a* Mhartinn^ or the parish of St Martin's ; and at the place of St Martin's, a small farm near its western extremity, the founda- tion of a church, surrounded by a burying-ground not now occu- pied, may still be seen. The probability is, therefore, that the parish church, dedicated to St Martin of Tours, was originally at the place of St Martin's; butthechurch being afterwards removed to the more centrical place of CuUicudden, the parish from this circum- stance came to be so called. The union of the parishes of Kirkmichael and CuUicudden must have taken place subsequent to the esta- blishment of Presbyterianism in Scotland in 1688; for, about the middle or rather towards the beginning of the seventeenth cen- tury, and during the sway of Scottish Episcopacy, the three ad- jacent cures or parishes of CuUicudden, Kirkmichael, and Cro- marty were served by three Episcopal clergymen, viz. Mr Robert Williamson, curate of CuUicudden; Mr Charles Pope, curate of Kirkmichael; and Mr Gilbert Anderson, curate of Cromarty; each of these curacies being in the gift of the Urquharts of Cro- marty as patrons. The united parish of Kirkmichael and CuUi- cudden, though still so caUed in old deeds and in the records of presbytery, is better known by its more modem name of ResoUs, (Ri-sholuis, f. e. the field or ridge of light,) and the united parish got this name 'from the circumstance, that the manse first, and a few years afterwards the church, was built, — and the glebe desig- nated by excambion at the place of Resolis, as ^he most centrical for the convenience of the parishioners about the year 1767. Pre- vious to that period, the minister had his residence at CuUicud- den, while he preached every Sabbath alternately at the churches of Kirkmichael and CuUicudden. After the present church was built, the two old churches were suffered .to fall into decay. The gables of both are still standing. That of Kirkmichael contains the old bell, which is occasionaUy tolled at funerals. Situation^ Extent, 8fc. — The united parish lies partly in the county of Ross, and partly in the county of Cromarty, within the district called an Oilean Dubh, or the Black Isle, on the south side of the Cromarty Frith. It extends in length, from ea&t to west, about 8 miles, and between 3 and 4 miles in breadth. It KIRKMICHAEL AND CULLICUDDEN. 39 is bounded on the north by the Cromarty Frith ; on the east by the parish of Cromarty ; on the south by the parishes of Rosmar- kie and Avoch ; and on the west by the parish of Urquhart or Ferintosh. Topographiccd Appearances. — Its form is that of an oblong square. From the shores of the Frith, the land rises gradually for nearly two miles, then sinks down into a valley ; on the south side of which, it again rises rather abruptly until it terminates in the summit of a hill called the Maole-Buidhe (i. e. the yellow brow or ridge.) The top of this hill, which is the precise boundary of the parish to the south, is called the Ard Meadhonaeh, or high mid- land, as it runs through the very centre of the Black Isle, and is equidistant from the Friths of Fort George and Cromarty, by which that district is bounded to the north, south, and east This is the only elevation in the parish which most nearly approaches to any thing resembling a mountain range. It may be about 800 feet above the level of the sea. The valley at the base of it con- tains nearly all the arable land of the parish, and runs almost through the whole of it The extent of coast from east to west, including all th^ sinuosities of the frith, may be about ten miles. The shore is gravelly, interspersed with low flat rocks, and below flood-mark. Meteorology^ Climate. — There is nothing very peculiar in the climate. It is usually moist and cold about the middle of spring. The snow during the winter months, owing to the almost insular situation of the district of the Black Isle, does not lie long upon the ground. The coldness of the spring, the prevalence of rain and easterly winds, and a sour damp soil, retard the labours of spring, and protract both sowing and reaping nearly a month long- er than in those parishes in the immediate vicinity to the south. Dry weather, often frosty at night, commences about the middle or end of May, and the wind shifts to the north-west, from which, with but few intermissions, it continues to blow during the rest of the season, sometimes with great violence, and heightened by the valley through which it rushes, — so that trees planted in hedge- rows which have not a firm hold of the soil, all over the parish, have a cast to the east. In autumn, the high west winds occasion much loss to the farmer by shaking, more especially in those more elevated localities which have neither woods nor hedges to protect them. Thunder storms usually occur about the beginning of July, after a long course of dry scorching weather. They have been 40 ROSS AND CROMARTY. known in some seasons, though not with any degree of Yiolence^ to continue for a week, beginning at noon and ending at sunset. Any instances, however, of houses being struck by lightning or of loss of life thereby, whether of man or beast, the oldest persons living never saw or heard of. In winter when loose and open, thunder storms have occurred but very seldom. The polar lights are visible almost every night after the autumnal equinox, often before. They were distinctly visible this year abont the 1st of August, or even about the middle of July. It has been ascertained by observa- tion, that when close to the verge of the horizon, they indicate loose stormy weather ; when more elevated, fair but frosty weather. About four years ago, the aurora assumed here an unusually striking and magnificent appearance. It was observed at midnight and about the middle of October, shooting along the whole extent of the upper region of the sky ; and, after assuming various fantas- tic shapes, it formed itself into an immense arch resembling a rain- bow, diffusing over the heavens a pale but vivid light, and giving a most unearthly appearance. The climate in general, however, is certainly salubrious. The people are healthy, and many among them attain to a very advanced age. The oldest man in the parish is now entering his 109th year. Epidemic distempers are fare ; and the Asiatic cholera, which, in 1832, so fatally visited the sur- rounding parishes of Avoch, Cromarty, and Kilmuir Wester, and Suddie, appeared in this parish only in the case of one man, who recovered after a comparatively short but severe illness. Hydrography — Friths. — The only Frith or arm of the sea in this parish is, as already mentioned, the Frith of Cromarty, or per- haps, more properly speaking, the estuary of the river Conon, a large and beautiful stream, which runs into the Frith 1^ mile above Dingwall, and about 7 'miles beyond the western boundary of this parish. The extreme length of the Frith from the town of Ding- wall to the Sutors of Cromarty, may be about 23^ miles. Its depth varies, but does not exceed 20 fathoms. Its waters, parti- cularly at the west end of the parish, are brackish, and during the winter floods^ and at low water, almost fresh, and of a deep brown colour. There are no quick-sands on this side of the Frith, with the exception of a single spot from which clay formerly had been dug, immediately below the House of Poyntzfield ; but there are very dangerous ones on the opposite side, particularly in the bay of Nigg, where many lives have been lost. Springs^ Rivulets, 4*c. — The north side of the parish is totally KIRKMICHAEL AND CULLICUDDEN. 41 destitute of springs, in consequence of whichy during the summer drought, the inhabitants are very ill supplied with water. Such as can afford it, are under the necessity of digging wells and erects ing forcing-pumps at a considerable expense. A well of this de- scription was dug by the present incumbent, about four years ago, behind the manse, to the depth of thirty feet ; and it is remarkable that the water issuing through a red species of rock has the smell and much of the taste of the celebrated Strathpeffer mi- neral. Strong springs, and of excellent quality, abound in the south side of the parish. The only stream of fresh water is what is called the Bum of Resolis, — which, issuing from a small lake at Kinbeachie, at the western extremity of the parish, runs throughout its whole length, drives two or three mills in its course, and, after receiving four small tributary streams, &lls into the Frith at the village of Gordon's mills. There are no mineral springs of any note in the parish. ' Geology^ Mineralogy, — The prevailing rock in this parish is sandstone or freestone. Geologists refer it, in greater part, to the old red sandstone fprmatiou. The soil, with but few exceptions, is poor and unproductive. A black light loam covers a hard till on a substratum of day. The till itself is a composition of clay and gravel, and the inveterate foe of vegetable life. In trench- ing, it is necessary either not to reach the till at all, or to go at least a foot and a-half beyond it, in order to break it up altoge- ther, and place the substratum of clay on the sur&ce. In many places, the till is so &r below the surface, or so very thick, that this is impracticable ; and in any case the expense is so great, that it has never been attempted. The effect is, that in spring, which is usu- ally rainy, the soil is so wet as entirely to prevent early sowing,^ whilst the summer drought hardens it almost to the consistency of rock ; and the grovrth and grain are miserable. On the west and north-west side of the parish, and close by the shore, the soil forms an exception to this almost general character of it It is there kindlier, and of a sharper and better quality. The baneM till is absent; the bottom is chiefly freestone. The soil, how- ever, is so light after all, that sowing must commence before the moisture of the spring rains be exhausted by the too near approach of summer drought and warmth. Lime answers well, provided the surface be properly drained, — which, owing to the inequalities of the ground in the greater part of the parish, is attended with con- siderable difficulty and expense. Simple minerals are either 42 ROSS AND "CROMARTY. wanting, or at least undiscovered. Tlie lead ore found in the free- stone rock to the south of the mill of St Martin's, by the late Mr Gordon of Newhall, in 1786, has ever since been unnoticed. Some indications of coal were a few years ago observed near the freestone quarry at CuUicudden; but a cbser investigation has never been attempted. It is highly probable that coal exists in the parish ; but the expensive, though ultimately unsuccessful, efforts of the late Marquis of Stafford at Brora, in. the neighbouring county of Sutherland, pretty clearly prove that both the quality of the coals, and the enormous expense of mining, are insuperable ob- stacles to any thing like a profitable coal^trade so far north, and probably even north of the county of Fife. At CuUicudden, a freestone quarry has been opened, and in operation for many years. The materials of many public buildings and of stone piers have ^een taken from this quarry. The freestone varies both in quality and colour ; in colour, from red to a deep yellow. The quality of the red freestone is seldom good, tf taken, as too often it has been, near the surface, it blasts, and, by thQ action of the weather, it very soon crumbles down. The yellow is rather better, but is often almost equally friable under the action of a northern climate. To secure the good materials which this quarry affords, the only way is to quarry at a considerable depth, — ^perhaps nine or twelve feet Zoolofftf. — No animals of the rarer kind are found in this parish. Moor-fowl or grouse, though very scarce, is to be found on the Maoile Buidhe. Partridges and hares are very numerous. Rabbits were introduced a few years ago, by a gentleman who had a tempo- rary residence in this parish, and have now so much increased as to have become a public nuisance. In most cases, they burrow under ground; but the east end of the parish being overgrown with furze oi whins, when burrowing is not practicable, they find shelter and nes- tle in them. Roes are found among such of the plantations as are not yet cut down, — though not very numerous. The fish caught in the Frith by stake-nets and yares, are chiefly salmon of excel- lent quality : they are sent to the London market Skate and whitings or cuddies, are caught by nets laid during the silence of night Herring-fry, salmon, and salmon-trout, as well as the cut- tle-fish, and other species of the rarer kind, are often caught in a yare, the property of Major Munro of Poyntzfield. Shell-fish is also found on the rocks, but more abundantly in a small bay or 4 KIRKMICHAEL AND CULUCUDDEN. 43 creek below Poyntzfield, on the sands at low water, and at spring- tides. JVees. — There is no natural wood in this parish, with the ex- ception of a few patches of birch, quaking-ash, and hazel, grow- ing on the banks of the rivulets, running through the estates of Poyntzfield and Braelangwell. The surfiice of the parish where it has not been planted is generally bare and moorish, yielding only furze, and a stunted kind of heather. Very extensive plan- tations of Scotch fir have been cut down on the estates of New- hall and BraelangwelL The larch fir in small patches, or mixed with the Scotch pine, has been lately introduced by §uch of the proprietors as have considerably improved their estates. It b much to be regretted that the larch is not more universally culti- vated, not only on account of the rapidity of its growth and the value of its bark and timber, (excellent for ship and boat building,) but also, as it is a well established fact, that plantations of larch, which will grow equally well on any kind of soil, instead of im- poverishing, as the Scotch pine always does, actually improve it by the iall of the leaf at the end of autmnn. Hard wood does not altogether thrive in this parish. The climate and soil are against it. At the policies of Newhall and Poyntzfield, it is true, there are fine old trees of ash, beech, and elm, nearly one hundred years old, (and which a few years ago made a very narrow escape from the axe,) but in most other parts of the parish where hard wood has been planted, it is stunted in its 'growth, and bark-bound. Comparatively young trees of ash are covered with seed, an almost infallible sign that their natural growth is checked. The leaves, too, fall ofi* about the beginning of September. Botany. — Of plants, either rare or medicinal, there are scarce any in the parish worthy of notice. On the banks of the rivulets, and among the patches of natural wood, the Oxalis AcetoseHa^ the iVt- rmtla veriSf the Anenume nemorosa, and the wild hyacinth, so com- mon to the Highlands of Scotland, grow luxuriantly. The Orchis mascula^ very rarely, and the Orchis Morio^ rather abundantly, are found in the woods of Poyntzfield. The ScLxifraga oppositifolia is found in the west end of the parish. The rag-weed, as in most parishes in the lowlands of Ross-shire, is the great nuisance of the pasture field, about the close of sutnmer. n. — Civil History. There are no records, either printed or in manuscript, of the his- tory of this parish. Even the scanty, and often not very agreeable 44 ROSS AND CROMARTV. informatioD to be derived from the church-session records, » wanting ; these repositories of past irregularities having been oonh- mitted to the flames, soon after the induction of the late incum- bent* The only historical event worthy of notice is the plague of 1694) so fatal in the south of Scotland, and which found its way, it is said, the same year to this parish. It raged with unrelenting fury ; whole villages were depopulated, and the living were so much wearied with burying the dead that they ceased at last to perform that office at all.* Eminent Men. — Eminent characters, in a parish comparatively so remote and obscure, may scarcely be expected ; yet they are not entirely wanting, though their honour was not that which ** is of this world." Mr James Fraser of Brae, whose memoirs present us with a simple but vivid sketch of a mind deeply imbued with vital piety, and the force of truth, and which are already so well known to the religious world, was a native of this parish, and the only son of Sir James Fraser of Brae, one of the heritors, and third son of Hugh, seventh Lord Lovat The house in which he was born in 1639 is still standing, and is occupied at present by a tenant on the estate of Newhall. Several passages of Scripture are carved, in capital letters, on the west gable. This eminent man, from his earliest years almost to the close of his well-qwnt life, was the object of human malice and persecution, in no ordi- nary measure. We willingly assign a place, among the characters now re- ferred to, to the Rev. Hector M^Phail, who was minister of this parish from 1748 to 1774, — a man of primitive simplicity, fervent piety, and most eminently successful in his ministerial labours. His resolution was, never to meet any of his parishioners, or in- deed any individual whatever, whether high or low, young or old, without opening up to them, and pressing upon their consideration, that ministry of reconciliation with which he was intrusted, and which he had the happy talent of doing in a manner as striking and impressive as it was easy and familiar. Many persons still living * Two affecting incidents connected with this terrible visitation are handed down by tradition. One is, that, when persons found themselves attacked by the diseasa^ aware that their bodies after death would remain unburied if they did not themaelTes take some previous measures, so lone as they had any strength remaining, they ac- tually dug their own graves, and laid themselves down in them until they expired ! ! Another is, that a poor maniac, the only survivor, not only of his own family, but (^ a whole village ! after waiting beside the body of his mother, the last victim of the plague in the place, took up the corpse at last on his shoulders, carried it to a neigh- bouring village, and left it standing upright against a wall. RtRKMICHAEL AND CULLICUDi3EN. 45 in the parish, now very old men, recollect well, and better than more recent circumstances, the very words of those solemn and affectionate exhortations which were addressed to them, when children, by this eminent man of God. Antiquities. — The antiquary, though not perhaps to be much gratified, would not be altogether disappointed in his researches into the few relics of ancient times still extant in this parish. On the moors, traces almost everywhere may be observ^ of ancient encampments, and of monuments of hard-fought fields. A tra- dition is still current among the people, of a sanguinary conflict fought on the moor which stretches from the place of Resolis to Cullicudden on the north side of the public road to Dingwall ; and of another on the north shoulder of the Moile Buidhe at the southern extremity of the parish, and on the south side of the public road to Kessock Ferry : and certainly these moors, thickly covered as they are with tumuli, bear testimony to the truth of the tradition. About twenty years ago, a lai^ barrow or cairn was opened up by the late Sir Alexander M^Kenzie of Avoch, at the farm of Wood- head in this parish, from which to get materials for building a ferm- house; and in the centre of it, was found a rude sarcophagus made up of large flags, containing a quantity of human bones of immense size, which, on being exposed to the air for a very short time, crumbled down to the finest powder. An earthen tumulus or mound being broken into, at Jemimaville, . by Major Munro, to procure gravel for metalling a road, an earth- en urn of a very antique form was found in it, and which is at pre- sent in the possession of that gentleman. The present incumbent, about two years ago, employed a man to trench a piece of moor on the upper part of his glebe: the circular base of an ancient Pictish house occupied one particular spot, in trenching which a stone vessel was found imbedded in the soil about a foot and a-half below the surface, resembling a cup about four inches in diameter, and three quarters of an inch thick, and made of a piece of hard whinstone. It appears evidently to have been a spoon, a small protuberance on one side intimating where the handle was. This curious relic, now in the possession of the present incumbent, is perhaps as old as the days of Druidism. Ancient Buildings. — The only remains of ancient buildings are the ruins of Castlecraig or Tigh na Craig (the house of the rocky) at the west end of the parish. It is built on the edge of a precipice 46 ROSS AND CROMARTY. close by the shore of the Cromarty Frith, and was originally sur- rounded by a wall which might be about twelve or thirteen feet high, but the fragments of which now only remain to the norChy east, and west of it Only a single wing of the building is now standing, and evidently the oldest part of it, — as, like many other castles in the north of a similar description, it received additions at different periods of time from the different owners who held it in possession. Its height from the top of the chimney to the base may be about fifty feet Its internal structure is of a very ancient fashion ; the rooms or apartments being all arched, and access had to them by a turnpike stair, which a few years ago, was taken down. The roof is of stone, and still quite entire. On the eastern gable, and just at the spring of the roof, with an entrance into it from the attic, is a bartizan which runs across, ornamented at the base with a neat stone cornice, and finished at each end with a small turret or bastion. The history of the lords of this an- cient fortalice is little more than traditionary. The building is said to have been originally erected by the Urquharts, Barons of Cro- marty ; and one of that family, by his misconduct, fiiUiiig uaiet the censure of the church in Popish times, is said to have been depriv- ed of the castle and lands in itsmore immediate vicinity, — ^which be- came, in consequence^ the property of the church. That this castle^ however, was the principal residence of the Bishops of Ross is quite certain. An ancient document is now in the museum of the Anti- quarian Society at Inverness, presented by Colin M^Kenzie, Esq. of Newhall : it is a warrant signed by the Bishop of Ross, and dated at . Craighouse, his residence, — in virtue of which, certain persons were to be pursued and incarcerated for violently resisting the possession of the place of Tolly, near Dingwall, to those to whom the Bishop had granted a lease of it It is probable, too, that it was after the overthrow of Episcopacy in Scotland that the castle and lands of Craighouse came into the possession of a family of the name of Williamson, the descendants of which are still in Grermany under the title of the Counts Williamson. Tradition farther informs us, that after the Williamsons had sold it, or were dispossessed of it, the owners were the Roses of Kilravock, a very ancient family, and whose property, though now very limited, once extended over a very considerable part of the Black Isle. From what family, the lands and castle were purchased by the Gordons of Newhall, is not certain. Session Records^ Sfc, — The lay members of the session are KIRKMICHAEL AND CULLICUDDEN. 47 eight in number, all regularly ordained as elders. The parish is divided into districts, and an elder appointed to officiate in each district, — all of whom give in regular reports to the session. The register of births and marriages has been regularly kept from the year 1748. A register previous to that period evidently did exist, but only a few leaves of it remaining, its contents were carefully transcribed into the present register. A very elegant and massy service of plate, consisting of two handsome silver communion cups, and a large silver flaggon, was lately gifted to the session by the late Mrs M^Leod of London, a native of this parish, daughter of the late Mr Urquhart of Kinbeachie, a venerable and truly pious and excellent person. The session records have been duly kept only since the induction of the present incumbent in 1822. Previ- ously, and for the space of forty-seven years, there was neither a regularly constituted session, nor, of course, any records whatever, — the books containing the minutes of session before that period having been burned. Heritors — Improvements. — The united parish is divided among nine heritors, three of whom only are resident The rest either do not reside in it at all, or visit it only occasionally. Colin M^Ken- zie, Esq. of Newhall, is patron of the parish, and proprietor of about the one-half of it The number of acres imperial in the parish cannot be exactly stated. The property is occupied chiefly by small tenants having farms not exceeding 40 or 50 acres. There are only three large farms, the largest not exceeding ISO acres. Much of the lat- ter is waste land, capable of improvement either by trenching or planting, but which has been suffered to remain in this state in con- ^sequence of the property having been loqg encumbered with debt, and in the hands of trustees for the behoof of the creditors. The present proprietor, though in easy circumstances, is advanced in life and unmarried ; and the estate, being strictly entailed, passes after his death, into the possession of a distant relation, — circumstances which prevent him from projecting any improvements whatever. The mansion-house is a chaste and elegant modern building. The pre- sent proprietor has built a very commodious and handsome square of office-houses, with which he has burdened the heirs of entail. The next property in point of extent is that of Poyntzfield. The present proprietor is George Gunn Munro, Esq. This estate may be about one-fourth of the extent and rental of the parish. The 48 ROSS AND CROMARTY. policies around the mansion-house were much improved by the first proprietor of the name of Munro, upwards of half a century agOy by trenching and planting. The trees have since attained to a great size, and are a very great ornament Major Munro, since his accession to the estate, has very much added to those im- provements. There is only one farm of any extent occupied by a tenant The remaining part of the estate is in the hands of sniall tenants and crofters. The other properties in the parish are those of Braelangwell, belonging to Duncan Davidson, Esq. of Tulloch, a small property once highly improved, but of late much ne* glected ; Drimcudden, another small property lately improved, and at present in the hands of the Trustees of the late Donald M^Ken- zie, Esq. of Newhall, consisting principally of church lands, and paying a heavy rent to the Crown ; Kinbeachie, the property of Thomas Urquhart, Esq. who has also much improved the lands, and intends soon to build a handsome mansion-house upon them; East Culbo, the property of Dr M^Kenzie, occupied until very lately by small tenants, but all of whom are now removed, and the whole property thrown into a large farm, which Dr M^Kenzie has highly and judiciously improved by trenching and planting; Wood«> head, a small farm occupied by a tenant and crofter, the pcop^rty of Lady M^Kenzie of Avoch ;* West Culbo, a part of the.^tafei of Sir James W. M^Kenzie of Scatwell, Bart on which no imprb?^ ments have been made ; Gordon's Mills, a part originally of die e»- tate of Newhall, the property of John M'Leod» Esq* On all these properties, the tenants are rack-rented, and the old rule of meliora*- tions, so great a bar to agricultural improvement, is rigidly adhered to ; by that rule, the incoming tenant at edtry pays to the outgoing tenant a sixm ot money, being the valuation of the dwelling-hooaeT "^ and farm-steading; and it not unfrequently happens that the hoimakd^-^. are valned at a very high rate when they are so ruinous JiaiAiaraBij to be habitable. f y:'' ; III. — Population. The population of the united parish, about seventy years ago^ appears to have far exceeded its present amount. The reasons of this are very obvious. Small ferms and even crofts have been, since that time, thrown into large ones. The present incumbent has been in the practice of taking a list of the population annuallj^Hluring * The late Sir Alexander M*Kcnzie, her husband, began to iniproT«.tlii0 propertj about fifteen years ago, but since his death nothing fiirthcr has beea'd with suitable ac- commodation; the other, commonly called Principal Baird's school, is supported by the Greneral Assembly's Committee. The salary is L. 25 ; and there are school fees. In these schools, are taught English reading, writing, arithmetic, and the lower Latin classics. Besides, there are other two schools, — one taught at the Episcopal chapel ; the other an itinerating school, supported by the fiirmers who live at a distance from the parish school. The inhabttantB are sensible of the advantages they derive from these schools ; but another is very much wanted. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the former Statistical Report was given in, the face of the parish has been greatly changed for the better, so much so that, between agriculture and plantations of various kinds of wood, there is scarcely an acre remaining in its natural state. I cannot omit mentioning a plan which Mr Mackenzie of Kilcoy has lately adopted for the improvement of his uncultivated moors : he has let them for thirty years at a small rent, beginning with Is. per acre, with an increase at the end of every seven years of 6d. KILLEARNAN. 63 per acre to the end of the lease, and at that rent to continue for the remainder of their lives ;— by which means, the parish is sup- plied with a sufficient number of labourers, and a total stop is put to emigration from his estate. For several years, a constant trade has been carried on, in this parish, with Newcastle and Hull, — fir props being exported to both these places, and the returning ships bringing lime and coal. This not only affords constant employment for the people, but supplies their families with abundance of brushwood, of which they stood much in need. There is no complaint arising from the want of labour. The rent of this parish at last report was L. 3545. It now amounts to L. 6000. PARISH OF KILLEARNAN. PRESBYTERY OF CUANONRY, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. JOHN KENNEDY, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The origin of the name of this parish is uncertain. Tradition makes the burying-ground, which gives its name to the parish, to have been the burying-ground of Irenan, a Danish prince who fell in battle on the northern confines of the parish, where Cairn Irenan still exists. In all church records, it is now known by the name of Killearnan. Extent, §"c — The length of the parish from west to east is from 5 to 6 miles ; its breadth, in one part, is from 2 to 3 miles, from south to north. It is bounded on the west by the parish of Urray; on the north by the parish of Urquhart ; on the east by the parish of Kilmuir Wester and Suddy ; and on the south by the Frith of Beauly, along which it is pleasantly situate. It is wholly the pro- perty of two heritors, viz. the Trustees of the late Sir William Fettes, Bart residing in Edinburgh, and Colin Mackenzie, Esq. of Kilcoy, residing at Balmaduthy, in the parish of Kilmuir Wester and Suddy. Topographical Appearances. — The elevation of the parish from the sea on the south side to the summit of the Mil-Bui on the north, is gradual. The shore is sandy and clayish, without any 64 ROSS ANP CROMARTY. headlands, bays, or islands. The clay in the shore is iised as moiv tar in building houses, and also as compost in muddings. There is a considerable variety in the soil of this parish. You will find, even on one and the same farm, light loam, gravel, red and deep blue clay. Broom is natural to the soil ; many fields, if left unplough- ed for three years, would be nearly covered over with a luxuriant crop of broom. There are many fields, particularly on the Red* castle property, covered thickly over with small ^tones; and though they are taken away this season at a considerable expense, yet the same process must be gone through, when the land is again brought under the plough. Nearly the whole soil of this parish rests upon a reddish freestone (the old red sandstone,) easily dressed, and when well selected, very eligible for buildings of any description. A quarry of this freestone has been worked for hundreds of years. Inverness has been supplied from it ; and the locks of the Caledonian Canal were built with stones taken from it. Other smaller quarries have been opened up, of late years, in several districts of the parish, Of the same colour and quality, for the purpose of building farm- houses, farm-squares, &c. Climate^ 8fc. — The prevalent diseases are, measles, hooping- cough, scarlet and typhus fever, asthma ; consumption rare ; liver complaint not frequent ; the small-pox nearly extirpated by vac- cine inoculation. The prevailing winds are the east and the west We have more rain from the east than the west. The north wind is not so much felt here as the west and south-west. The inhabitants are generally healthy, and many of them live to a great age; One man, bom in the parish, died within the last fourteen years, at the advanced age of one hundred and six years, and he was able to attend regularly at church till within a year and a-half of his death. He retained his mental faculties pretty entire to the last. He learned more, during the last seven years of his life, of the mysteries of the kingdom of God, than he did ^hiring the whole of his preceding life. There are several persons now in the parish, both men and women, above eighty years of age.* Hydrography. — As already observed, the Frith of Beauly bounds this parish on the south, along its whole line from west to east. The water of this Frith is blackish in its colour, arising from the great quantity of moss mud carried down by the river Beauly when • The man who preccnted in church, in the times of my two immediate predeces- sors, is now above eighty, and still preceai^in the Gaelic service occasionally, — works at his loom as formerly, — and continues to enjoy excellent health and spirits. KILLEARNAN. 65 flooded. The water is brackish in its taste, from the quantity pour- ed by the Beauly into the Frith. In the broadest part, the Frith of Beauly may be three miles. Its depth may average from one to six or seven yards. There are several excellent springs in the pa- rish. Geology and Mineralogy. — There are no limestones, granites, or porphyries, as yet discovered in this parish, the prevailing rock being the old red sandstone. Mines are not here known. The quality of the soil, as already stated, is various. Zoology. — Serpents are found, but are not numerous. There are also foxes and polecats ; but, as there are not many sheep reared in the parish, their haunts are not narrowly looked after. There are no rare species of animals known in this parish, nor am I aware that any which formerly existed in it are not now to be met with. The roe and roebuck are now more numerous than they.have been, owing to the shelter and protection afforded them in the extensive plantations on the Redcastle property. The different species of cattle now reared in the parish are, horses, cows, hogs, and sheep. The insects which are common to other parts of the country are to be met with in this parish. Mussels and whelks are plentiful on our side of the Beauly Frith, in the east end of the parish. The mus- sels are used by the fishers of the parish of Avoch for bait for their small lines : and both are used for food by the poor people in sum- mer when meal is scarce. Botany. — There are no very rare natural plants known here. There are very large plantations of Scots fir and larch, intermixed with hard wood, particularly oak, ash, and birch, on both the pro- perties, but chiefly on that of Redcastle. The wood plantations are very extensive, occupying 2533 imperial acres, 2 roods, and 14 falls. The plantations are seemingly thriving. Ash, elm, beech, and plane trees, of very large dimensions, are also to be met with in various parts of the parish. II. — Civil History. I am favoured by Kilcoy with the following measurement of the two estates in this parish. Imperial standard measure* Arable land. Wood, Pasture. Total. 1. Barony and lands of a. r. r. a. a. r. a. a. r. a. a. r. Redcastle, - 1565 3 98 1652 4 577 3 32 3795 3 34 2. Lands and barony of KUooyandDrumnamurg, 977 36 881 2 10 1182 14 3040 3 20 Total of parish, 2543 34 2533 2 14 1760 6, 6836 3 14 Eminent Men. — The late General Mackenzie Fraser was born ROSS AND CROMARTY. E 66 ROSS AND CROMARTY. in the castle of Kilcoy, now a ruin, but at the tinoie of his birth, the seat of that family. The General was the second son of Colin Mackenzie of Kilcoy, then the representative of that family. He distinguished himself at the siege of Gibraltar in early life ; but his character as a military man is so fully known to the public, that it is unnecessary to give it here. In several successive Parliaments he represented his native county. He died in the rank of Lieute- nant-General, regretted, esteemed, and beloved by all who knew him. There is another distinguished officer, a descendant of the Kil- coy family on the maternal side, Lieutenant- General Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, who has lately taken the name of Douglas of Glen- bervie. His military character is well known. General Sir George Elder was born in this parish, of humble but respectable parents, near the Castle of Kilcoy. By his merits alone, he overcame all difficulties, and raised himself to his present distinguished rank and station. Parochial Registers. — The parochial register of this parish has been regularly kept from the year 1744. Modern Buildings. — There is little in this parish to interest the antiquary. There are no modern buildings in the parish, except some very excellent and substantial farm-houses, built within the last twelve years, upon the property of Redcastle. There are two mills in the parish, one on each of the properties, where oats, barley, pease, and beans are ground, and which pay a yearly rent to the proprietors. In ancient times, there were two mansion-houses, built in the form of castles, one on each of the properties. In these houses, the representatives of the families of Kilcoy and Redcastle resided, originally Mackenzies. The Kilcoy Castle, as already observed, is now a ruin ; but the castle on the other property, once used as a fortification, is at present in an excellent habitable con- dition, modernized inside, beautifully situated, and containing ample accommodation for a genteel family. III. — Population. The population of this parish, according to the census of 1831, is 1479. I find an increase of more than an hundred upon the whole population upon that of 1821, — notwithstanding of the de- population which since then has taken place on the estate of Red- castle. This increase arises from the accommodation given by Colin Mackenzie of Kilcoy, on his properties in this parish, to te- nants removed from the estate of Redcastle ; and also, in a more KILLEARNAN. 67 especial manner, from the encouragement which the same gentle- man gives to strangers expelled from various parts of the High- lands, to settle on his portion of the late Mill-Bui commonty, and on other woodlands on his property of Tore, — where they are ac-' commodated on liberal terms, and where it is expected they may make for themselves, in a few years, pretty comfortable settle- ments. Those who first settled on these parts of the Kilcoy pro- perty after I became minister of this parish are now able to keep a horse, a cow, with a follower, and a few sheep. Tbe number of fiunilies in the parish is . • - 924 of inhabited houses, • - - 293 of uninhabited houses, - - - 4 of houses building, 4 The average number of marriages for the last ten years may be from 8 to 10 of baptisms from - - 16 to 20 of deaths, - e • - 12 There are three persons blind in the parish : none deaf or dumb. The language of the natives is Gaelic ; and the greatest portion of the inhabitants can receive religious instruction through no other medium. The Gaelic, however, may be considered as on the decline. Nearly the whole of the young people understand and speak Eng- lish well. And of late years, and in consequence of the new system of farming introduced, converting large tracts of land into one farm, strangers have come amongst us, who do not understand Gaelic, and must therefore bring along with them from other parts ser- vants who can understand them. The inhabitants are cleanly in their habits — industrious and sober — religiously disposed — moral in their conduct — teachable and tractable — punctual in their at- tendance]of public worship — religiously observing the Sabbath day, believing the Divine authority of the Bible, and taking it for the rule of their faith and practice. We have a few solitary exceptions, but they are few. There is no temptation to poaching ; and smug- gling is almost entirely abandoned. Within the last three years, there has been but one illegitimate birth in the parish. IV. — Indostry. The distribution of males among the several employments is as follows: farmers, 15; cottars, 119; labourers, 64; employed in agriculture in all stations, 155; in trade and manufactures, 60; 1 auctioneer or appraiser; 6 blacksmiths; 5 masons; 7 carpen- ters ; 1 wheel-wright, above eighty years of age, still found work- ing at his turning-loom ; 6 sawers ; 2 millers ; 6 innkeepers, of retailers of beer and whisky ; 16 shoe and brogue-makers ; 2 shop- 68 ROSS AND CROMARTY. keepers; 8 tailors; and 17 weavers. There are about 52 female servants in constant service ; and other females in the parish are employed by the day, in field labours, by the principal farmers, when their services are required, but who, when not so employed, live either in houses by themselves, or with their parents, occupyingr their time in spinning flax or wool, of which they make webs for sale, and thus contriving to support themselves by their own industry. Agriculture. — The improvement in agriculture in this parish, within the last sixteen years, has been very great, particularly on the estate of Redcastle, where it is now carried on with great spi- rit, and in a very substantial manner. The lands are laid out and cultivated in the most modern style, and the appearance of the fields is now very different, indeed, from what it was even twelve years ago. There are now many scores of acres yielding wheat and green crops, which were then useless, without any other cover than short heath and broom. Both the heritors are liberal in giving en- couragement to their tenants in improving waste lands, by allow- ing them L. 5 Sterling for every Scots acre they improve, and leaving it in their possession during the currency of their lease, with- out rent. Nearly the whole arable lands of the estate of Redcastle, with a considerable part of the waste lands, are in the possession of six principal farmers or tacksmen. These farms are now worked by horses, from two to six pair for each farm. The three largest of these farms were formerly occupied by small tenants, each paying a rent of from L. 12 to L. 60, L. 70 and L. 80. Some twelve or fourteen of these small tenants occupied among them what is now in the oc- cupancy of one individual. These farms have been laid off with regular boundaries, and are subdivided into regular fields. New steadings of the most complete description, with comfortable dwel- ling-houses, have either been built, are building, or are about to be built, on these farms on the Redcastle property. Substantial stone dikes have been built, and are building, around the several sub- divisions of the farms. Similar improvements are in progress on the estate of Kilcoy; and I understand, that both the tenants and the crofters have got leases of from nineteen to twenty-one years, — so that when the proposed improvements are completed, few parishes will present a more highly cultivated appearance than the parish of Killearnan. The principal tenants raise heavy crops of wheat, barley, oats, rye, pease, beans, potatoes, turnips, and clover, in great abundance. The returns are various, as the season varies. If the summer be dry, the returns may be from three to four; but KILLEARNAN. 69 if the summer be warm and rainy, the returns may then be from six to eight Rent, — The rent per acre of the large farms may average L. 2 or L. 2, 2s. The average rent per acre of the Kilcoy lands, though not yet so highly cultivated (they are liming) may be from L. 1, Ids. to L. 2. The remuneration of the farmer varies, of course, with the mdrkets. There are no fish-curers in this parish, — though a few boats go every season for a few months to the Caithness herring fish- ing, at great risk, and with great previous out-fits ; they succeed pretty well some seasons, and at other times they return with con- siderable loss. The principal farmers rear upon their own farms, their own horses and cattle, necessary for the farming purposes ; from which stock, they are able to sell a yearly portion of each kind. In the end of harvest, they buy a good many young cattle for the con- sumption of their straw, and sell them at the summer markets, sometimes with considerable profit. They also buy in cattle and sheep for feeding on turnip, for the fleshers at Inverness. The sheep are fed in folds on the field ; and the cattle are fed in stalls in their squares. Produce. — The average amount and value of raw produce year- ly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as fol- lows : Wheat, 270 Soots acres, giving 7 imperial bolls each acre, the average price for the last three years heing L. 1, 4s. each boll, . L. 1950 Barley,^ 1 40 acres, at 5 tmperial quarters each, average price for the last three years L. 1 , 8s. per quarter, .... 960 Oats and rye, 290 Scots acres, at 5 imperial quarters each acre, average price for the last three years, L. 1, Is. each, equal to . 1522 10 Turnip, 100 Scots acres, at L. 5 each acre, . • . 500 Potatoes. 60 Scots acres, at L. 6 each acre, . . . 360 Clover for hay, 400 acres, valued at L. 5 per acre, . . 2000 Pastured yearly by 450 cows, the remaining arable at L. 4 each, brides the working horses and some young ones sold, with sheep and pigs, 300 Annual thinnings of woods and quarries may be equal, with garden re- turns, to . . . • • . . 120 L. 7632 10 Manufactures. — There are no manufactures of any description carried on in this parish. Only, individuals purchase wool and flax, — dress and spin it, — get it weaved in the parish, — clothe themselves by it, — and the remainder not so used is sold at the public markets. Navigation. — There are no ships, the property of individuals re- siding in the parish, employed in trade, except two : a schooner 70 ROSS AND CROMARTY. and a sloop belonging to the tacksman of Lettoch have beeOy within the last eight years, employed by him in the timber and coal trade betwixt this and Newcastle. V. — Parochial EcoNo»rt^. Means of Cammimication.'^TheTe are no market-towns in the parish ; and the nearest market-town is Inverness. We have no post-office ; no bridges, properly so called ; no canals or rail-roads ; no harbours, properly speaking, though vessels of a considerable tonnage can safely load and unload on the shore of the east end of the parish. We have a good turnpike road passing through the eastern extremity of the parish, from the Ferry at Kessock to Dingwall, Invergorden, and Fortrose, — upon which a toll-bar is placed, and upon which carriages of every description pas& Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is every thing but com- fortable as a place of worship. It was originally built, some hun- dred years ago, in the form of a cross ; and in that form it now stands. It is large enough to contain the population of the pa- rish. It was first thatched with heather ; but, upwards of for^ years ago, it was raised on the walls, newly roofed, slated and seal- ed ; but, in opposition to the then minister's wishes, the heritors continued its former Popish form. The present heritors seem not less attached to this relic of Popery than their predecessors. They lately added to the former props supporting the decayed galleries, ten new additional props of planted wood, — removing the decayed parts of the sarking, and splicing the rotten ends of some of the couples. In short, the church is a most uncomfortable place of worship, and most ruinous to the health of the incumbent, as it is said to have been to that of his predecessors. Even such as it is, there is no free sitting in it, even for the very poor. — The manse was first built about a hundred years ago. It has received the addition of a back wing and some repairs, since the present incum- bent was admitted ; and yet, it is far from being either comfort- able or commodious; and, were it not for the incumbent's own outlays upon it, he would have had little satisfaction in it The glebe may be from 5 to 6 acres, all arable — no pasture. There is, in addition to this glebe, the one-half of the glebe of Kilmuir Wester, belonging to the minister of Killearnan. This arose from a disjunction of the three parishes of Suddy, Kilmuir Wester, and Killearnan, which took place in 1756, — when the two parishes of Killearnan and Kilmuir Wester and Suddv were formed from the former three ; and when the stipend of the three parishes was equal- KILLEARNAN. 7 1 ly divided between the present two^ The stipend of KiUearnan has been, ever since, 145 bolls of barley, 51 bolls of meal, and L. 8, 4s. 2d. of money, without any allowance for communion elements. It is now the smallest stipend in the Synod of Boss ; and there are no means for augmenting it, as no vacant teinds were left in this parish, when the annexation took place. There are no chapels, belonging to any other denomination than that of the Established Church, in this parish, — though a few of the parishioners attend a Scots Episcopal chapel in the parish of Kilmuir Wester and Suddy, built upon the property of Allangrange. The people are generally a church-going people. There is a catechist in the parish, supported by the interest of L. 300, funded for the purpose from the stipend of the parish which had accumulated during a vacancy of eight years, while the right of presentation was liti- gated between the Crown and the Honourable Mrs Hay Macken- zie of Cromarty, before the Court of Session and the House of Peers. The process was finally decided by the House of Peers in favour of the Honourable Mrs Hay Mackenzie, in the month of July 1814. The communicants of this parish are 150 in number, including the elders. We have had a quarterly collection in the parish, during the last twelve years, for missionary purposes, — which may amount yearly to from L. 8 to L. 12. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, — the parochial school, and one endowed by the Society in Scotland for Propa- gating Christian Knowledge. We have, besides, a female school, taught on the second patent of the same Honourable Society. In the parochial school, the following branches are taught, viz. mathe- matics, book-keeping, mensuration, Greek, Latin, English, writ- ing, Gaelic, geography, English grammar, &c. In the Society's school, are taught English, Gaelic, translating English into Gaelic, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping. The attendance at each school is from 80 to 100. The salary of the parochial school, in- cluding the legal allowance for a garden, is nearly L. 30. The salary of the society schoolmaster, along with a small croft free of rent, is only L. 1 5. The schoolmistress gets L. 5. The quarter- ly charge for school fees may be from Is. to 4s. The children of the poor are taught gratis : and the good effects of early education is seen in the industry, sobriety, and good conduct of our youth. Poor. — The number of persons in the parish receiving paro- chial aid is betwixt 60 and 70 ; they receive yearly from 6s. to 12s. 72 ROSS AND CROMARTY. each. The collections at church, in their behalf, may amount to L. 24 or L. 30 a-year. Fairs. — We have two public fairs held, each year, in the months of March and July. Fuel — The principal fuel used by the poor, are, peats, tur^ the roots of broom, branches of trees, and some coals. Coals are al- ways used by the more wealthy portion of the inhabitants, — for which they pay from Is. 6d. to 2s. the Scots barrel, or from Is. to Is. 2d. the imperial barrel The coals are brought from Newcastle. PARISH OF LOCHBROOM. PRESBYTERY OF LOCHCARRON, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. THOMAS ROSS, LL.D. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Situation^ and Extent — The parish of Lochbroom de- rives its name from a fresh water lake of about S Scotch miles in length, and 1 in breadth, at the distance of from 12 to 15 miles from the sea, — which, being surrounded by. high hills, and conse- quently much visited by the moisture of the passing clouds, is known by the very characteristic appellation of Loch-ni* Bhraoinj or the Lake of Showers ; Braon, or Braam, in Gaelic, signifying a shower, or drizzle of rain. The same name of Broom is, from this lake, also communicated to the river, which flows from it through a considerable part of the parish, and to the great arm of the sea into which that river falls near the parish church. The parish is bounded on the west by the channel called the Minsh, which separates the island of Lewis from the mainland of Scotland. It has the parish of Assint on the north ; the parishes of Kincardine and Contin on the east ; and the parish of Grairloch on the south. The figure of the parish is exceedingly irregular, a great part of it consisting of a variety of promontories of very different ex- tent and appearance, and separated from each other by lochs and creeks and inlets of the sea. The distance, in a straight line, be- tween the extreme points of the western boundary, is not more than from 22 to 24 miles, yet within that space of direct latitude there are included above 100 miles of shore washed by the ocean* LOCHBROOM. 73 The inland boundaries are almost equally irregular, so that the extent in square miles is utterly unknown, and will probably con- tinue to be so. It may, however, be very safely affirmed, that, in regard to extent of territory and number of inhabitants, and diffi- culty of the ground, and natural divisions, the parish of Lochbroom alone (independently of the village of Ullapool, in which there is a Government church,) would form four large parishes, which would furnish ample scope for the exertions of four able and active paro- chial ministers. It may be proper to add, that, if the parish of Lochbroom were divided into four such distinct parishes, having churches planted at the most suitable distances, with ministers in each, there would still be many persons in these parishes who would require to travel from five to fifteen miles, of very difficult road, be- fore they could obtain any of the sealing ordinances of religion. It may be further observed, that, in this parish, there are seven cemeteries, or public burying-grounds ; eight stations in which the minister thinks it his duty (though not obliged) to preach occa- sionally — always in the open air — yet always to larger congrega- tions than on ordinary occasions meet in the parish church ; eight- een stations, at which from 45 to 220 scholars could assemble for instruction, if they were blessed with teachers, — besides several hundreds, who could only meet in tens, and fifteens, and twenties ; and finally, that in this parish alone, there are above 1300 young people — all poor — who are either receiving, or require to receive, instruction in the first principles of an useful education. Surface J General Appearance^ and Natural Divisions. — To a spectator placed on an eminence in the inland part of this parish, the appearance is that of a wide and dreary waste of bleak and barren heath, as if a segment of the great ocean, agitated and tossed, and tumbled, not by an ordinary storm, however violent, but by some frightful convulsion of nature, with here and there a rude and lofty peak of rugged rock, towering to the skies, — had been suddenly condensed, and formed into a solid shapeless mass of unproductive desert, without one spot of green on which to rest the eye. On descending from the heights, however, and advan- cing towards the sea, the ground assumes a very different, and more pleasing aspect. Here, along the shores of the ocean, on the sides of the great arms of the sea by which the parish is intersect- ed, and the rich valleys which extend fer among the hills, the eye is refreshed by the sight of fertile fields, and populous hamlets, with numerous flocks and herds, and woods, and water streams. 74 ROSS AND CROMARTY. The parish is divided into four districts, viz. The Aird^ or height of Coigach, Lochbroom Proper, the Little Strath, and the Laigfa* The appearance from the sea, in a clear summer evening, is mag- nificent beyond description. Riversy Lakes, and Fish. — In Coigach, are the beautiful vdes of Strathceannard and Rhidorch, watered, the former, by the water of Ceannard, and the latter, by the finely wooded lake of Achall, and the river of Ceannchruinn or Ullapool. Lochbroom is divid- ed into what are called the Big and Little Straths ; through the former of which, flows the rapid river Broom, from the mountain lake already mentioned, which gives its name to the parish, till it falls into the Big Loch, below the parish church. Through the. latter, runs the Little Broom, fed by a number of mountain streams, into the Little Loch, about a mile below the House of Dun- donnell. The Laigh is watered by the Meikle river, which pours the waters of Loch-na'^-sealg, (a beautiful sheet of fresh i^ater, six Scotch miles in length,) and of many other lakes and rivulets into the sea at Greenyard, — and by the little river of Greenyard, which forms the boundary of the parish on the south. All these streams are well stocked with salmon, grilse, trout, and other kinds of fish. Coasty Mountains f and Islands, — It has been already mentioned that the parish of Lochbroom possesses a very great extent of shore. But this is chiefly formed by the bays and deep inlets of the sea, by which the land is intersected. Along the coast of the Atlantic, the shore is bold, rocky, and precipitous, consisting of the pro- montories of More (or Great,) Riff*, Dunan, Duard, Ardchaduill, Handerick (or Cailleach,) and Stadaig. But the heads of the lochs or bays are chiefly low and sandy. The principal mountains are Stac, Cumhill-Mhor, and Big Rock, in Coigach, on the north ; Beinn-Deirg on the east ; Fannich on the south-east ; and the hills of Strath- na'sealg on the south-west. But their eleva- tion above the sea is uncertain. There are several islands be- longing to the parish, off* the coast. Some of them are inhabited, as Ristal, Tanara, Isle Martin, Isle Greenyard, and sometimes the Priest Island. The others, called the Summer Isles, are ex- cellent for wintering young Highland cattle. The hills of this parish were well stored with game of all kinds, till the introduc- tion of extensive sheep-farming, which has greatly diminished the quantity of game, as well as of salmon and other fish in the lakes and rivers. The same circumstance has had an equally delete'ri- LOOHBROOM. 75 ous effect on the growing woods of the country in general, — and also on its race of heroes. Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere, though ex- ceedingly changeable, is rather moderate and mild ; neither so high in summer, nor so low in winter, as on the eastern coast of the island, in Cromarty, Leith, or even London. The mercury in the thermometer perhaps never falls below 16**, nor rises above 74% Fahrenheit. In the barometer, it runs over the whole range, from 28 to 31, sometimes beyond it; and it has been often seen to fall or rise a full inch and more, in the course of one day. The climate is certainly moist, and much rain falls from the one end of the year to the other ; yet more harm is done to the t^rop, on the whole, by dry weather than by excessive rain. Rainbows by the sun and the moon are frequently observed. Of the latter, a most beauti- ful instance occurred on Thursday the 24th of October 1833, at 8 o'clock p. M., forming a magnificent arch over Hhe whole of the Big Loch, from side to side, such as Telford never con- structed. The Polar Lights are often exceedingly grand and bril- liant The prevailing wind is the south-west, which almost always brings foul weather. There seem to be no diseases which can be said to be peculiar to the country ; but consumption, and obstinate constipation of the bowels, are the most prevalent distempers among the people. In the year 1812, the parish was visited by small-pox in the natural way, which carried off almost all that were attacked by it. But the minister got the people, by much persuasion, to agree to have their children inoculated. A physician was accord- ingly called in, who inoculated from 900 to 1000 young people, out of which number only 5 died. Vaccination has been partially used ; but the small-pox has not since prevailed in the parish. Hydrography, — There is little to be said on this head. The lochs, rivers, and lakes have been already noticed. There are some beautiful cascades in the parish, as may well be supposed from the nature of the ground, and the quantity of rain which falls upon it, but none of them of sufficient importance to merit a particular description here. There are also many mineral springs, which are chiefly of a chalybeate nature. Geology. — Old red sandstone forms extensive tracts in this pa- rish, as Coigach and other parts on the mainland, and the Sum- mer and other islands along the coast. Quartz rock abounds in some quarters, and Beinn Deirg on the east, Fannich on the south- east, and other mountains, are chiefly composed of gneiss, with 76 ROSS AND CROMARTY. veins of granite, beds of quartz rock, &c. A bed of limestone appears in the Little Strath, passes under the Big Loch to Ul* lapool, from which it runs into the beautiful and magnificent marble quarries of Assint. But, from the difficulty of the ground^ and the scarcity of fuel, little use is made of it here. On the farm^of Scorraig, the property of Dundonnell, there is a prodi- gious quantity of bog-iron ore, which seems to be of the sub-spe- cies of meadow-ore. It communicates a strong and harsh chaly- beate taste, to all the springs of water in the neighbourhood. The soil in this parish, as may be supposed from its great extent and different degrees of elevation and distance from the sea, is exceed- ingly various ; but the prevailing character is that of a light, sharp, gravelly loam, well adapted to produce the ordinary crops of oats, barley, and potatoes. Wheat also has been tried in i^ and an- swered remarkably well. Zoology. — On this head there is little to be said. The animak which were generally found in wild mountain districts, abounded long ago on the hills of Lochbroom: Deer, roe, hare, rabbity ptarmigan, grouse, black game, wild pigeons, sheep, goats, horses of a small size, but hardy, and cows. The race of wolves has been extirpated; but reynard contrives to keep his ground in spite of every effort to expel him, and often commits sad ravages among the sheep. The hens he scorns, as also the ducks of the poultry- yard, and leaves them to the meaner tricks, but not less rapacious fangs, of fumarts, martins, and wild-cats. Badgers are found among the lower grounds, partridges in the fields, and abundance of ot- ters along the shores of the sea, and the banks of the rivers and lakes. « Of fishes, besides salmon, grilse, and trout, there are perch, pike, eel, and minnows, to be found in some of the rivers and lakes of the parish. The salmon come up to spawn in autumn. But, alas ! it is much to be feared, that but very few of them are allowed to return to their briny element; being intercepted by lawless and mer- ciless poachers. The fishes which frequent the sea coasts of the parish are too numerous to be particularly noticed. But the hea- rings cannot be passed over in silence, being the great staple of the country. Of herrings, prodigious shoals appear off the coast of Lochbroom, often as early as the month of May ; but they pass on towards the south, and do not strike into the lochs and arms of the sea, so as to be productive of much benefit to the country, sooner than the LOCilBROOM. 77 month of September. From that time, their appearance, though exceedingly irregular, is anxiously looked for, till the mouth of Fe- bruary. Great is the preparation made, and much the expense incur- red, engrossing even the little all of most of the poor families along the coast — to meet and profit by the expected bounty. When the herrings set fairly in, at a proper season, and when they continue for a considerable time within the lochs and bays, the benefit is very great The herrings of this coast are of the very best kind — the people are instantly afloat, with every species of seaworthy craft — numerous crews from all parts of the east and west coasts of Scot- land, and even from Ireland, press forward with the utmost eager- ness to the field of slaughter — sloops, schooners, wherries, boats of all sizes, are seen constantly flying on the wings of the wind, from creek to creek, and from loch to loch, according as the varying re- ports of men, or the noisy flight of birds, or tumbling and spout- ing of whales and porpoises, attract them. Hundreds of boats are seen to start at day-set for the watery field, they silently shoot their nets, lie out at the end of their train, all night, and return in the morning full of life and spirit, to sell or cure their cargoes. The scene is extremely animated and interesting. And when there is a successful fiishing, it is important, in a national, as well as in an individual point of view. For some years back, however, the taJte has not been great, and much loss has been sustained. Of insects, the most injurious to fruit and garden vegetables, in this parish, has been the caterpillar ; and the only means which the writer of this has found effectual in preventing their depreda- tions, has been to pick them ofi* the leaves as soon as they appear, by the fingers of joung people, and put them into small dishes contain- ing a little water, to be carried away and destroyed. And although this method may appear, at first sight, an endless work, particular- ly in a large establishment, it is by no means so. Let the work be boldly and perseveringly attempted, and it will infallibly succeed. Of shell-fish, we have great varieties, many of which, such as oysters, cockles, mussels, spout-fish, &c. are most useful to many of the poor people near the shores, who, in a great measure, sub- sist upon them during the summer season, when meal is scarce or exhausted. Great numbers of crabs and lobsters also are taken among the islands, and along the coast, which are carried in smacks to the London market. Botany, — This parish was once thickly covered with woods of various descriptions of trees; chiefly Scotch fir, ash, elm, oak, birch. 78 ROSS AND CROMARTY. alder, mountain-asb, willow, poplar and hazel. There are still some beautiful trees of oak, ash, birch, geen, bird-cherry, and mouDtain- ash, with some small thriving plantations of fir, in the Little Strath, about Dundonnell House and Mains ; and a few old ash trees about the village of Ullapool, and firs in the glen of Achall. But with these exceptions, and some few alders, growing at the sides of rivers, in the glens, the parish is nearly denuded of wood. The soil and climate, however, are exceedingly favourable to the growth of wood of all kinds which are conunon to this country ; as may be seen by passing through the glebe, where firs of dijBerent kinds, and hard wood, and fruit-trees, planted by the present in- cumbent, have succeeded beyond the most sanguine expectations. Of fruits in particular, viz. apples, pears, plumbs, cherries, Spanish filberts, walnuts, currants, gooseberries, of many difierent kinds, he can shew samples which he has not seen exceeded in any part of the country ; all on standards, in the open air. The culinary plants committed to the soil produce the best returns. II. — Civil History. Of the ancient history of this parish very little is known, — ^there being no printed or manuscript accounts of it in existence, so far as the present writer is aware. Yet there have been men of genius and talents connected with it Eminent Men. — Norman M*Leod, (alias Tormaid Bdn) the au- thor of the well known song of Caberf^idh, and of many other very popular and highly poetical productions, was a native of this parish, and father of the late minister of Rogart in Sutherland, and of Professor M*Leod, late Regent of the University of Glasgow. Murdoch M Minister of Poolcwc. OAIRLOCH. 91 Applecross ; on the north, by the river Gruinard, that separates it from the parish of Lochbroom ; on the east, by a chain of hills, where the mountain streams running towards the east and west coasts, separate ; and on the west, by the Minch, that separates the Long Island, or Lewis, from the main land. To shew the irregu- larity of the figure of this parish, it may here be stated, that, on the west coast, it has from 80 to 100 miles of sea coast, all of a bold rocky description, except on the shores of the inland lochs. Hydrography^ ^c — Few parishes on tne west coast can boast of more magnificent mountain scenery, — as the traveller can testify, who has sailed down the picturesque Lochmaree. The principal mountain in the range, is Slioch or Sliabhach ; its elevation above the level of the sea cannot be less than 3000 feet The traveller who, from the west end of Lochmaree, takes a view of the scenery before him, cannot fail to be struck with astonishment at the wild grandeur of the scene presented to his view ; — the much -admired and far-famed Lochmaree, with its four-and-twenty wooded islands; the range of mountains commencing on the right and left, and ex- tending four miles beyond the east end of Lochmaree ; Lochmaree itself, eighteen miles long, appearing in the distance like an amphitheatre of nature's own workmanship, and presenting to the eye of the stranger an impenetrable barrier. Hydrography. — Lochmaree, as already stated, is 18 miles long, and 1^ mile broad at an average. The greater part of it is 60 fathoms deep, so that it has never been known to freeze, dur- ing the most intense frosts. About the centre of the loch, is an island called " Island Maree,'* on which is a burying-ground supposed to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; — hence the name of the island and of the loch. This is one conjecture ; — another is, that some of the Danish Kings were buried in this island, and that the original name of it was " Eilean nan Rigli," which came to be pronounced " Eilean Maree" The number of tombstones in the burying-place, with inscriptions and hieroglyphical figures which few now-a-days can satisfactorily decipher, gives a, plausibility to this conjecture which is not easily got over. As it is a doubtful subject, and likely to remain so, a third conjecture may be ven- tured : There lived, a great many years ago, in this part of the Highlands, a great and good man called " Marecy" who had his principal residence on this same island ; after his death his admir- ers prefixed Saint to his name. Many of his generous and bene- 92 ROSS AND CROMARTY. volent deeds are, to this day, recounted by the people of this and the surrounding parishes.* There is only one river worthy of particular notice in this pa- rish, viz. the ^^ £u7e," which issues from Locbmaree, and is only one mile long from its source to its confluence witli the arm of the sea, called ^^ Lochewe.^^ This beautiful stream abounds with sal- mon of the very best description. It is surpassed by no river on the west coast for angling; and hence it is, during the summer months, fre- quented by gentlemen from all parts of the kingdom, for this healthy and delightful exercise. An English military gentleman killed one hundred salmon and grilse, in the course of a few weeks, during the summer of 1834 ; and I am credibly informed that the late proprie- tor. Sir Hector Mackenzie of Gairloch, Bart, frequently killed twenty salmon in one day. — Besides Gairloch, Lochewe is the only other salt water loch in the parish. This loch, into which the waters of Lochmaree fall, is from 8 to 10 miles long. Near the mouth of it, is a fertile and well cultivated island, called Isle Ewe. Much attention and expense were bestowed upon the improvement of this island, by the present proprietor. Sir Francis Alexander M^Ken- zie of Gairloch, Bart., before he came into the full possession of the Grairloch estate. The two principal headlands jutting out on each side of Lochewe, are Ru Rea on the south, and Green Stone Point on the north side. Climate. — The climate is mild, although extremely rainy. This may be accounted for, partly by the mountainous character of the country, and partly by other causes. The prevailing winds are the west and south ; and at whatever season of the year it blows from these quarters, we are almost certain of torrents of rain. Easterly winds invariably bring us dry weather, and hence they are welcome visitants, although they warn us to wear additional cover- ings. The easterly winds are more prevalent in the month of March and first half of April, than at any other season of the year. But there has been a marked change in the climate, for some years " On the centre of this island Is a deep well, consecrated by the said Sahti MMree to the following purpose. To this same well are dragged, voletii, HoUm§, all who an insane in this or any of the surrounding parishes, and after they haye been made to drink of it, these poor victims of superstitious cruelty are towed round the island after a boat, by their tender-hearted attendants. It is considered a hopeful sign, if the well is full at the time of dragging the patient to the scene. In justice to the people of this parish, it may be stated, that they hare not such an unbounded belief in the healing virtues of the well, and the other parts of the transaction, as their most distant neighbours appear to entertain. The beUef in such absurdities is daily losing ground in the Highlands ; and there is little doubt that, in course of a few yean mote, the clouds of supcrstititm that overhang the moral horizon of our Highlands will be dis- sipated by the l>etter education of the peasantry. GAIRLOCH. 93 back. Instead of the deep falls of snow, and the long-continued frosts that were wont to starve the black-cattle, smother the sheep, and fertilize the soil in former years, we have now mild weather, and very much rain. Notwithstanding the extreme wetness of the climate, and the people's frequent exposure in the open air, their principal employment being fishing, — they are in general healthy, and of robust constitutions. Geology and Mineralogy. — This, and the neighbouring parish of Lochbroom, afford numerous displays of interesting geological phenomena. Old red sandstone and quartz rock abound, but gneiss and its various subordinate formations may be considered the prevailing formation. Upwards of one hundred and fifty years ago, when the science of mineralogy was comparatively in its in- fancy in Scotland, and when the spirit of speculation and adventure did not move with such bold strides as in later times, a Sir James Kay sent several people to work at veins of iron ore, on the estate of Letterewe, along the north side of Lochmaree, in this parish. I understood they continued to work successfully for several years; but as wood was their sole fuel for conducting the operations, they were obliged to desist when the wood in the neighbourhood was. ex- hausted. The ruins of one of the furnaces for working the ore are within a few hundred yards of the manse of Poolewe; and those of another are ten miles farther up, along the north side of Loch- maree. A spot is pointed out to the passer by, near the east end of Lochmaree, where they buried their dead. It is, to this day, called " Cladh nam Sasganach" the burying-ground of the Eng- lishmen. Highlanders look upon all who do not speak the Gaelic language as Sasganaich, or Englishmen. At a later period, some other individual, or perhaps the same, thought he had discovered a vein of silver ore, in another place along the north side of Loch- maree ; but after digging to a considerable depth, the undertaking was abandoned, without yielding a remunerating return to the spirited adventurer. Botany. — The rarer plants that are found in the parish are the Ajuga pjramidalis, Saxifraga stellaria. Arbutus alpina, Saxifraga hypnoides, Comufl Suecica, Serratula alpina, Hieracium alpinum, Thalictrum alpanum, Rubus chamiemonMy Epipactus longifblia. Salix herbacea. All the culinary plants usually cultivated in Scotland, grow freely in this parish, as well as all the common fruits. With re- gard to plants used for medicinal purposes, I know only six, viz. 94 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Menyauthes trifoliata, For the stomach. Linum catbarticum, Aperient. Ground ivy, • Deobstruent. Wild carroty - Diuretic. Ranunculus flammula, For blistering instead of cantharideft. Dandelion, - - For the jaundice. Trees indigenous to this parish, are the White barked ash, Fraxinus excelsior. Poplar, •> Popultts tremulA, Oak, - - Quercus robur, Bird cherry, - Prunus padus. Birch, - - Betulaalba, Holly, - Ilex aquiifoliuni* Alder, - - Betula alnus, Pine, * Pinua sylTestrld* Upland willow, Salix alba. Elm, - Ulnua montaiuu Mountain ash, Sorbus aucuparia. Of exotic trees for timbe^ there are none planted excepting; Larix, Pinus larix — Chestnut, Fagiis castanea^ — which thrive ex- tremely well. A variety of delicate exotic shrubs bear this cli" mate, and produce their flowers, in the grounds of Sir Francid M'Kenzie. Trees in general grow rapidly in this moist climate, whenever the soil and situation are suitable. IL — Civil History. Eminent Men. — This parish has been as fortunate as most of its neighbours, in being the birth-place and residence of eminent characters ; but the only person whom I shall at present mention, is William Ross, the celebrated Gaelic bard. This individual was born in the parish of Strath, Isle of Skye, in the year 1762. After receiving as liberal an education as the school of Forres, at that time could afibrd, he was appointed parochial schoolmaster of Gairloch, when about twenty-four years of age. In that situa- tion, he continued four years. He died in his twenty-eighth year ; and his remains are deposited in the churchyard of Gairloch. ^* As a writer of Gaelic songs," (to quote from a short memoir prefixed to a Collection of his Songs, published four years ago,) " William Ross is entitled to the highest praise. In the greater number of his lyrics, the bard leads us along with him, and im- parts to us so much of his own tenderness, feeling, and enthusiasm, that our thoughts expand and kindle with his sentiments. Without going beyond the bounds of ^ verity and truth,' it may be affirmed that his poetry, more perhaps than that of most writers, deserves to be styled the poetry of the heart — of a heart overflowing with noble sentiments, and with sublime and tender passions." Land^oumers, — The land-owners of the parish are, Sir Francis Alexander M'Kenzie of Gairloch, Bart. ; Sir George Stewart M^Kenzie of Coul, Bart. ; Duncan Davison, Esq. of Tulloch ; James Alexander Stewart M^Kenzie, Esq. ofSeaforth; and Hec- tor M^Kenzie, Esq. of Letterewe. GAIRLOCH. 95 Parochial Registers. — There were no parochial registers kept in the parish previous to the year 1802 ; since that period, they have been regularly kept. ^ IIL — Population. Character of the Peopfc.— The ancient population of this pa- rish, as far back as the oldest living inhabitants can remember, was comparatively rude and uncultivated. There are now living in the parish, some who remember the time when there was only one, or at most two Bibles in the parish, besides the minister's. What, in such a state of things, could be expected of the manners of the inhabitants ? Yet these same individuals will unhesitatingly affirm, that people were more generous and more noble-minded at that period, than they are now. PopulaUon in 1801, 1487 1811, 2755 1821, 4518 1831, 4445 The causes of the increase are various, and too numerous to be mentioned here. Among these, however, may be mentioned the habit of early marriage, and the system of letting the land in lots* The lot of lands this year in the possession of one family may, be- fore twelve months are. over, be divided into three equal portions, — in other words, three distinct families live upon the produce of it. •" The yearly average of births for the last seven years, • • lOO of marriages for do. - - • - 40 No register of deaths kept in the parish. The average number of persons under 15 years of age, -> 1693 betwixt 15 and SO, - - - 1128 aOanddO, - - 927 60 and 70, - - 602 upwards of 70, - - 95 The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, 5 of bachelors upwards of 50 years of age, - • - 16 of widowers, do. - « • 18 of unmarried women, upwards of 45 years of age, • - 76 of families, - - - * " 795 of inhabited houses, • - - • - 791 of houses now building, .... 6 There are only 4 blind individuals within the bounds of this pa- rish : 10 fatuous persons ; and 6 deaf and dumb ; 4 of the latter belong to one family, and 2 to another. Language^ Sfc. — The language generally spoken is the Gaelic. I am not aware that it has lost ground within the last forty years. Some young men, indeed, who have received a smattering of education, consider they are doing great service to the Gaelic, by interspersing their conversation with English words, and giv- 96 ROSS AND CROMARTY. ing them a Gaelic termination and accent. These corrupters of both languages, with more pride than good taste, now and then, in- troduce words of bad English or of bad Scotch, which they bate learned from the Newhaven or Buckie fishermen, whom they meet with on the coast of Caithness during the fishing season. The Gaelic, however, is still spoken in as great purity by the inhaln- tants in general, as it was forty years ago. The houses of the people in general, have but one outer door, and as they and their cattle go in by that one entrance, — the bipeds to take posssession of one end of the house, and the quadru- peds of the other, — it cannot be expected that a habitation com- mon to man and beast can be particularly clean. Some of the people, indeed, are now getting into the way of building byres for their cattle, contiguous to their dwelling-houses ; and it is acknow- ledged, even by the most indolent, that a great improvement is thus effected. It is hoped that the practice may soon become more general. When the young people go to kirk or market, few appear more " trig or clean ;" and a stranger would hardly be per- suaded that some of them lived in such miserable hovels. When a girl dresses in her best attire, her very habiliments, in some in- stances, would be sufficient to purchase a better dwelling-house than tha4 from which she has just issued. The people are in general contented with their situation and circumstances. If they have a lot of lands, grass for two or three cows, and fishing materials, they seldom have any further objects of ambition. Owing to the means of education not being commensu- rate with the increase of population, the intellectual character of the people does not keep pace with their moral and religious cha- racter. They are naturally a shrewd, sensible, steady sort of people. With a few exceptions, they are of good moral character. They seldom quarrel among each other ; and when they have any differences, these are generally settled by the proprietors or factors. A law-suit is seldom heard of from this parish. When I advert to their religious character, I am constrained to acknowledge my fear that their knowledge of the truths of our holy religion is more of the head than the heart. The form of godliness is not so much wanting as its power. I do not mean, however^ that in this respect the people of this parish are not on a parity with those of the neighbourhood. Smuggling was carried on to a great extent in this parish, some years ago, but is now very much on the decrease; indeed, while GAIRLOCU. 97 there is a vestige of such a demoralizing practice remaining, there can be but slender hopes of moral improvement. It may be men- tioned to the honour of one of the heritors, that he has erected a licensed distillery, for the sole purpose of giving a death-blow to smuggling on his estate. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of families employed in agriculture, including those who employ servants, is 556; male servants upwards of twenty years of age, 86 ; female servants of all ages, 141. Number of acres under wood, 5000. I have already mentioned the trees indigenous to this parish, and also the exotic tre^s planted for timber. The woods are generally kept in good condition, by thin- ning, pruning, &c Rent of Land. — Average rent of arable land is from 10s. to L. 1, per acre ; rent of grazing a cow or ox for a year, from L. 1 to L. 2 ; rent of pasturing a ewe or sheep for a year, from Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Wages. — Farm-servants receive from L. 5 to L. 8 per annum for wages, exclusive of their victuals; masons receive from 2s. 6d. to 8s. ; carpenters from 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; blacksmiths, ds. ; weavers, from Is. 6d. to 2s. per day, all including victuals. Fisheries. — The various kinds of fisheries carried on in this pa- rish, are salmon- fishing, cod, and ling-fishing, and herring-fish- ing. The salmon-fishings are let at L. 1 50 per annum. Salmon- fishing is carried on by cruives, stell-nets, bag-nets, and stake- nets. Cod and ling are taken by long lines, and the hand-line ; and herring, by the common mode of meshed nets. Navigation. — There are four vessels belonging to the several ports in the parish, averaging about thirty-five tons burthen each. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — This parish is extremely ill sup- plied with the means of communication, owing to the want of roads. We have one post-oflSce situated at Poolewe. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is as conveniently si- tuated as it could well be, considering the extent of the parish ; its distance from the eastern extremity of the parish, is twenty-eight miles ; from the southern, fifteen miles ; from the western, twelve miles ; and from the northern extremity, twenty miles. The church was built in the year 1791, and got a thorough repair in 1834. The church affords accommodation for 500 sitters only. The manse was built in the year 1805; but a considerable addition was built to it ROSS AND CROMARTY. G 98 ROSS AND CROMABTY. in the year 1823. The glebe is worth about L. 30 per annum ; the amount of the stipend is L. 240. There is one GovemmeDt church in the parish ; it is situated at Poolewe, six miles to the north of the parish church, and fourteen from the northern extre- mity of the parish. It is now erected into a new and separate pa- rish quoad sacra^ called the parish of Poolewe. Exactly one- half of the population of the whole parish is connected with this new parish. We have one catechist employed by the Committee for managing his Majesty's Royal Bounty, and another paid by con- tributions from the parishioners. There is not a single Dissenter within the bounds of the parish. The average number of conmiu- nicants at the parish church and Government church, is 360. Education, — The total number of schools in the parish is 9; the parochial school is one of that number ; all the rest are sup- ported by different religious societies. The branches of instruc- tion taught at the parochial school arc, Greek, Latin, mathematicsi arithmetic, writing and English, and Gaelic reading. The branch- es taught at the Society schools are arithmetic, writing, English and Gaelic reading. Tlie salary in the parochial school is L. 30 Ster- ling, and L. 4 are obtained from school fees ; at the Society schools, the salaries are from L. 5 to L. 25 Sterling. Scarcely any school fees can be calculated upon, owing to the poverty of the people. From six to eight schools are still required in the parish ; and some of the schools now in operation ought to be put on a more permanent and efficient footing. Not more than one in every ten of the whole population is able to read and write in English. In 1833, 1773 persons above six years of age could not read either in the Gaelic or English languages. Poor. — The number of poor receiving parochial aid in the pa- rish, is about 100, each receiving from 2s. 6d. to 6s. per annum. The annual amount for their relief is about L. 16^ principally aris- ing from church door collections. Inns, — There are five licensed inns in the parish. Tlieir effects are most destructive to the morals of the people. This is evident from the fact, that those who live in the close neighbourhood of these houses are in general given to tippling and idleness, — while those who have not such a temptation at their doors are sober, industri- ous people. Fuel, — Peat is the only kind of fuel used by the people : it is procured in the mosses contiguous to their dwelling-houses, at an expense of from L. 1 to L.2 for a family, in the year. APPLECROSS. 99 Miscellaneous Observations. In concluding this short Account of the parish, I must take leave to say, that either the Parliamentary Commissioners for Highland roads, or those whose duty it was to make application to them, were very remiss in overlooking this parish. When other parishes received large grants fo^ conducting public roads through their whole length and breadth, this parish, though the public mails pass twice through it every week, from Dingwall to Stornoway, was completely neglected. It is almost unnecessary to add that, without public roads, no regular improvement can be carried on in any part of the Highlands. The first great improvement required in this way, is a public road from the east end of Lochmaree, along its banks to the harbour of Poolewe, — and throwing an arch across the river Ewe, near its confluence with the sea; a spot which seems formed by nature for the purpose. The population is by much too dense for the means of support which they enjoy. A Grovemment grant to convey one-third of the people to Upper Ca- nada would be most desirable ; and, in order to promote the moral and religious improvement of the people, two missionaries, and from six to eight schools, on a proper footing, are absolutely necessary and loudly called for. < * September 1836. PARISH OF APPLECROSS. PRESBYTERY OF LOCHCARRON, SYNOD OF 6LENBLO. THE REV. RODERICK M*RAE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The parish of Applecross, in Gaelic called Comaraich^ is divid- ed into three large districts; 1. Applecross, strictly so called; 2. Lochs, consisting of Torridon, Shieldag, &c. ; 3. Kishom. This parish formed a part of the parish of Lochcarron, till 1726, when it was erected into a separate charge. The Applecross dis- trict was formerly occupied by a body of Roman Catholic priests, whose residence afforded an asylum to such as from*motives of piety, or to escape from punishment for criminal actions, sought such a place of protection. Hence the name Comaraich, a place of safety. 100 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Name. — The modern name Applecross was given to the parish by the gentleman who was proprietor of the Conuxraich estate, at the time of the erection : in commemoration of which event, five apple trees had been planted crossways in the proprietor's garden. Extent^ 8fc, — The parish is of great extent, and if reduced to a regular form, might be calculated at 20 miles long, and as many broad, if not considerably more. The far greater part of the parish consists of mountainous rocks and hills, covered with heather, and wild grasses. There is nothing repiarkable, however, in their height or in other respects. There are several lakes and rivers which produce trout and sal- mon, as Loch Damf, &c, the rivers of Applecross, Torridon, Balgie, &c. Geology. — The predominating rocks in this parish are red sand- stone, quartz rock, and gneiss. Soil. — The soil, for the most part, is not rich, deep, loamy, or clayey, but rather light, gravelly, and sandy : — it produces, how- ever, good crops of oats, barley, and potatoes, &c. There are some peat mosses ; but they are not very deep, at least where ac- cessible for fuel. In some parts, they are at such a distance from the inhabitants, that the making of peats is very expensive, and in many cases more expensive than coals. There is plenty of limestone at Applecross and Kishorn ; but it is found cheaper to buy lime from the kilns at Broadford, in the Isle of Skye, than to be at the expense of burning the stones here. There is a cop- per mine at Kishorn, which was worked sometime ago, and is said to have produced very rich ore. It is to be wished that Mr Mac- kenzie of Applecross, the proprietor, would order it to be opened again, — as that might considerably benefit his own family, and afford employment and support to persons who now lose their time in sloth and wretchedness. There are several caves and grottoes, said to have been occu- pied in old times by banditti and outlaws, or used by the inhabi- - tants as places in which they preserved their effects from marau- ders and plunderers. Climate. — The climate is rather moist and foggy, and torrents of * rain frequently fall in all seasons of the year. For several years back, there has been very little snow compared with the storms of former times. During the last winter, there was no snow which remained so long as a single day on the low grounds. The snow, however, covered the hills, and continued in some places till the APPLECROSS. 101 end of April. The climate is not considered ^s unhealthy, nor are the people subject to any distempers but such as are common in other parishes on this coast, as fevers, rheumatisms, palsies, consumptions, &c. ; and these are not often very prevalent or de- structive. Zoology y Sfc. — There are great herds of deer, and some roes in the hills and woods. There are also beasts of prey, as foxes, pole- cats, &C. which do considerable mischief among sheep, poultry, &c Of birds there are several kinds, as heath-hens, black-cocks, partridges, ptarmigans, wild-pigeons, plovers, snipes, wild-ducks, &c. : also birds of prey, as eagles, kites, hawks, &c There are various kinds of salt water 6sh, as herring, cod, ling, sythe, cuddy, flounder, &c. ; also shell-fish in considerable quantity, as cockle, spoutfish, mussels, &c. There are great quantities of the latter found in the bay of Applecross, where tbe sea ebbs a great way, and leaves an extensive strand, — the people in great numbers, sometimes to the amount of a hundred and more, coming with sticks of a particular description, to dig the sand for shell-fish, with which they fill large creels in a short time, and which affords a wholesome and nourishing food. There is a good fir wood at Shieldag, producing timber fit for boats, vessels, and buildings, &c At the mansion-house of Apple- cross, there are some young thriving plantations, consisting of ash, elm, larch, fir, &c IL — Civil History. Land'Oumers. — The land-owners are, Thomas Mackenzie, Esq. of Applecross ; J. A. Stewart Mackenzie, Esq. of Seaforth ; and Sir F. A. Mackenzie of Gairloch, Bart. Parochial Registers, — There are some registers of baptisms and marriages, commencing in the year 1779, but they have not been regularly kept. Antiquities, — There are a few antiquities, as a small obelisk, near the parish church, and some little remains of the Popish re- ligious houses ; but they are of no importance. Modem Buildings, — There are no modern buildings, except- ing the parish church at Applecross, and a Parliamentary church and manse at Shieldag. IIL — Population. In the year 1790, the population was 1734. According to the census in 1831, the number was 2892 ; of whom 1450 were males, 102 ROSS AND CROMARTY. and 1442 females. Baptisms are from 60 to 70 ; and marriages from 25 to 30, — on an average of the last few years. Language of the People, — The language of the people is gene* rally Gaelic, but a great many of them speak English also. " The people, for the most part, are decent, orderly, and industrious in their habits. Cotton cloths are much used by them. Their or- dinary food is potatoes and fish, bread, gruel, pottage, milk, but- ter, and cheese, and a little animal food. They, however, complain of their circumstances, like the people of neighbouring parishes, — which is much owing to the augmentation of rent, which took place in the time of the French war, and still remains 'for the most part unreduced. They have suffered, also, by the failure of the herring fishing on this coast for several years back, and the low price of cattle, — two important sources of their comfort It is true there is a considerable rise in the price of cattle this year ; but it is doubt- ful how long that may continue. Number of families in the parish, .... 550 chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 387 in trade, manufiurtures, or handicraft, ^1 Within the last three years there have been 5 or 6 illegitimate children. IV. — Industry. Number of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, about ... 1800 There are more than 300 square miles which can never admit of cultiTation, but must always remain in pasture. Number of acres that might be added to the cultivated land, with a proBtable application of capita^ from ... 400 to 500 Numbo' of acres under wood, but none planted eicept about 90 acres at the mansion-house of Applecross, .... 400 Farms in general are of small extent. A few of them pay from L. 30 to L. 50 rent. But the generality of the farms consist of townships, where the tenants pay from L. 4 or L. 5 to L. 9 or L. 10. There are few leases ; ordinary duration, seven years. There are not many enclosures, excepting a few near the man- sion-house of Applecross. The rental of the parish is upwards of L. 3000 ; but some of the rents are irregularly and ill paid. Meal, grain, and potatoes are often imported, as the produce of the soil is not sufficient to support the inhabitants. The manure used for the land is compound dunghills, shelly sand, sea-ware, and a little lime. There has been much improvement of late in agricultural instruments. Iron ploughs are used, two horses to the plough, directed by the ploughman without a driver. Formerly four horses were used to a plough, with a ploughman and driver, and other two persons to keep down the plough in the ground, and level the APPLECROSS. 103 rigs. The crooked spade is still used, where there is but little pasture for horses, and where the ground is too rough and rocky for the pfough. Something has been done in the draining and improving of land. There are plenty of quarries for building, but none regularly worked. There is very little commerce, except in small shop-keeping and fishing. No manufactures. There are about 21 vessels of from eighteen to fifty tons bur- den, employed in the fishing and coasting trade. There are salmon fishings at Torridon and Balgie, which rent at about L. 15 or L. 16. As to the herring-fishing, the tenants have all a little concern in it. Wages. — The wages of men-servants, ploughmen, and such, are L. 8 a-year, with their maintenance ; of women servants, from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3 a-year ; herd boys get much the same sum ; labourers charge Is. a-day, and often Is. 6d. ; carpenters, masons, and other tradesmen charge generally by the piece. When employ- ed at day's wages, wrights and boat-carpenters charge 2s. 6d. ; masons, Ss. 6d. Weavers get from 4d. to 8d. per yard. ; tailors for a suit of clothes, from 10s. to 15s. ; a great-coat, 5s. ; a cloak, 5s. Produce. — Average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Oats and liarley may be worth about - L. 3000 Potatoes and turnip, about - - 1600 Pasturage, black- cattle, and sheep, . 3000 Fishings, - - - - - &00 L. 8000 Deducting L.3000 for rent, price of seed, expense of labour, and other incidents, very little will remain for the support of a po- pulation of 3000 souls. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Toums. — There is no market-town in the parish, nor within many miles of it. Villages. — There is a fishing village at Shieldag, containing a population of 200 souls, with as many more in its environs. Means of Communication. — There are good Parliamentary roads from Lochcarron to Applecross, and Shieldag. The nearest post- office is that of Lochcarron, about twenty miles from Applecross, and fifteen from Shieldag. Letter-carriers are employed from both these places ; a serious expense to the few contributors who furnish their salary. There are many bye-roads and footpaths across the hills, but they are only fit for foot-travellers. There are many 104 BOSS AND CROMARTY. bridges on the Parliamentary roads, and kept in good repair. There are good harbours at Poldown, Shieldag, and Torridon. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is very ill situated, hay- ing very few inhabitants near it, and lying on the north side of a river, without a bridge over it, which frequently prevents the people from attending public worship. They often, however, wade the water, and sit in church during service with wet feet and wet dothes^ which no doubt occasions many serious complaints among tbeoL It were earnestly to be wished, that, by some means or other, whe- ther by subscription or otherwise, a bridge was erected on this river. A subscription for the purpose has been lately commen- ced : it amounts to L. 30, and it is to be hoped, that an equal sum may be obtained from kind contributors in other places in- terested in the welfare of the people of this place, and the gene- ral cause of humanity ; which sum, it is supposed, would be suffi* cient to complete the work. The parish church was built in I8I7» and is in good repair. It is large enough to accommodate up- wards of 600 sitters. There arc no seat rents. The manse was built in 1796, and has been repaired since. The glebe may be worth from L. 12 to L. 14 a-year. The stipend, all paid in mo- ney, is L. 158, 6s. 5d. of which Government pays L. 54, 4s. lOd. The ministers of the parish since its erection in 1726, have been» Mr Angus Macaulay, Mr Colin Macfarquhar, Mr John Macqueen, and the present incumbent. The Government church at Shiel- dag, which was commenced in 1825 and finished in 1827, is about twelve miles from the parish church. It is exceedingly well situat- ed for the accommodation of a large congregation ; and it is satis- factory to find, that, along with the other Government churches, it has been lately erected by the General Assembly into a parochial charge. It is also to be hoped, that Government will soon com- plete their own bounty, by raising the stipends of the ministers of these churches to the minimum stipends of Scotland. There is a catechist supported by the Royal Bounty Committee. There are few dissenters, only three or four Episcopalians, and about the ^ame number of Baptists. The minister of Shieldag is appointed to preach at Kishorn, ten miles distant, once a month, in a place of worship built by the inhabitants. The people near the various places of worship attend pretty regularly. Education. — There are five schools in the parish, — the parochial school at Applecross; a school at Shieldag, and another at Torri- don, both supported by the General Assembly's Committee ; a APPLECBOSS. 105 school at Kishorn, by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge ; and a Graelic school at Badanvougie. The scholars attend- ing these schools, may be averaged at 50 each school. English, Gaelic, writing, arithmetic, Latin, and mathematics are taught in these schools. The parish schoolmaster has a salary of L. 25, and L. 2 in lieu of a garden. The fees amount to about L. 8 a-year* The salary of each of the teachers at Shieldag and Torridon is L. 20, and of the teacher at Kishom L. 15. The fees may be about L. 5 at each of these schools. At Badanvougie, the salary is L. 25, but the teacher has no fees. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations. Several districts are at a great dis- tance from all these schools, and wish much for teachers. There are six or seven such districts in this parish. Religious know- ledge has no doubt been increased of late ; but it is questionable if moral improvement has kept pace with that knowledge. Sup- posed knowledge pufTeth up many, but it unfortunately appears, that they are very deficient in that charity which ediiietb. There are also disputes and hurtful divisions which may, in many cases, be ascribed to the conduct of improper teachers employed by some well-meaning Societies, both in the metropolis and other places, who are unacquainted with the state of the Highlands) and misled by the reports of interested persons and busy bodies. And it is a matter of much regret, that no small share of these remarks ap- plies to the case of superintendants and catechists, under the lu- dicrous denomination of local missionaries, though ignorant and illiterate, employed by so respectable a body as the Highland Mis- sionary Society. There is no circulating library in the parish, except those sent to the schools at Shieldag and Torridon, by the Assembly's Com- mittee. It would be a most desirable measure, if several school societies would place their funds under the management of that Committee. In 1833 it was found there were 1100 persons in the parish above six years of age unable to read; and 500 betwixt six and •fifteen years of age in the same situation. Poor and Parochial Funds* — The funds for the poor are v6ry small ; but happily the number of persons on the poors' roll is not large. About 30 persons receive parochial aid — ^getting from 5s. to 7s. a-year each. The annual amount of contributions for their relief is about L. 10 from church collections, and the interest of a sum of L. 60 deposited in the bank. Owing to the general po- 106 ROSS AND CROMARTY. verty of the Highlanders, and the great distance of the people here from the parish church, the Sunday collections rarely amount to 2s. and often not to Is. The Shieldag church being more cen- trically situated for the attendance of the people, the collections are larger. Some small sum is also collected at Kishorn. These collections, with the interest of L. 40 for the Applecross district, and of L. 20 for the Kishorn district, with fines for delinquencies, are the only funds for the poor in this parish. And out of these the precentor's salary is paid, and the poor only get a pittance of from 5s. to 7s. each in the year. They, however, generally plant some potatoes, and get a little fish without expense. The tenants also help them from the produce of their farms. There is« little temptation to be put upon the poor's roll ; and not many of them are desirous of it without great necessity. Fairs, — There are no fairs in the parish. Inns, — There are 4 inns, at Applecross, Kishorn, Shieldag, and Torridon. Prices of Provisions, — No fixed prices for prorisions can be stated. Low country meal sells this year at 14s. and 15s. a boll, potatoes at 2s. a barrel. There are no butchers to sell meat in small quantities ; but, from the prices usually paid for cows and sheep, beef and mutton may be had from 2d. to dd. a pound. Hens sell at 6d. a piece, eggs at 2d. per dozen, and sometimes dd. Fuel. — The ordinary fuel is peat, which, in some places, is car- ried from a great distance, either by sea or land, and is very ex- pensive. When sold, 2d. a creel is paid for it. Miscellaneous Observations. The new Parliamentary roads are a great advantage to this pa- rish. A bridge on the river of Applecross would be a most im- portant improvement, not only for the benefit of the inhabitants, but also of travellers from various quarters. And it is to be hop- ed, that, through friendly assistance, this most desirable measure will soon be accomplished. Additional schoolmasters and cate- chists would be a great advantage. Agricultural improvements might be carried on to a considerable extent. Manufactures can- not be easily introduced, nor is it likely they would answer. There are too many of them in other places already. The improvement of the soil is what chiefly demands attention. September 1836. PARISH OF LOCHCARRON. PRESBYTERY OF LOCHCARRON, SYNOD OF GLENEL6. THE REV. JOHN MACKENZIE, MINISTER. ♦ I. — Topography and Natural History. • Name* — Lochcarron is so called from an arm of the sea of the same name by which it is intersected, and which derives its name from the river Carron (signifying in Graelic a winding stream) which falls into it. Extentj Sfc. — It is 25 miles long. To its breadth it is difficult to apply any scale of measurement. From its eastern extremity to the end of the loch (about 15 miles) it is upwards of 10 miles broad. It is then considerably narrowed. On the south side, the parish extends along the loch for about 4 miles. On the north, it consists of an elevated ridge, extending along the coast for nearly ten miles, and seldom exceeding 2 miles is breadth. Including Courthill, situated in Kishom, within the parish of Applecross, Lochcarron may contain 250 square miles. Topographical Appearances. — The entrance to the parish from the east is a glen, bounded by hills varying in height, and stretch- ing out into heathy and uncultivated moors. As you pass along, the scene becomes more interesting. The bottom of the valley is watered by the Carron, which, by the accession of several tributary brooks, is increased to a considerable stream. The banks are di- versified with portions of cultivated ground ; and the hills on both sides present pasture of a superior description. Not far distant, along the base of a hill facing the north, rising almost perpendicularly, covered with natural woods of birch, alder, and wild ash, you see Lochdowal in the Carron adorned with three islands, skirted with ash, oak, and underwood ; and farther on, you have Lochcarron, which presents the appearance of a fresh water lake. The glen widens as you approach the loch, and opens into a valley equal in extent to any on the coast, and furnishes a fine subject for improvement. The most interesting view of the • Drawn up by a Probationer of the Church of Scotland. 108 ROSS AND CROMARTY. parish is from an emiDence in Lochalsh above Strome Ferry* From this eminence^ looking to the north-east, you behold the fine expanse of Lochcarron, presenting the appearance of a fresh water lake about 20 miles in circumference, embosomed in hills, which at the head of the loch rise to a considerable height The hills surrounding the valley appear almost to meet in their bases, and to jut towards the loch like so many promontories. The sloping ground of Strome, extending from the ferry, pre- sents a series of gentle and irregular hillocks, diversified with na- tural birch, ash, and underwood, — while cultivated fields frequently relieve the eye ; and behind this ridge, the mountains of Apple- cross tower aloft, in rugged and precipitous magnificence. In a calm summer evening, when hundreds of boats are seen shooting their nets, and scores of vessels lying at anchor, Loch- carron exhibits a scene of rural felicity and of rural beauty that is seldom to be witnessed. Soily Sfc. — The parish presents every variety of soil. The pre- vailing winds are north-east and south-west. The climate, in the opinion of the older inhabitants, has undergone a considerable change. They allege that the winter has become less severe, the summer less mild. The climate is so variable as to render an ac- curate description of it impossible. The winter is generally mild, and during its continuance vegetation is seldom checked. The spring is usually wet, and such as greatly retards the operations of the farmer. Early in this season, we have occasionally storms of hail, brought by a north-west wind. In April and May, we have keen easterly winds, with frost at night, which proves very injuri- ous to such fruit trees as are then in blossom. We have not the ge- nial warmth of summer until the beginning of June. The crops then make rapid progress ; nature is clothed in the beauty of sum- mer ; and when free from rain the weather is most delightful. The weather in harvest is very changeable, and renders the securing of the crop very troublesome and expensive. Speaking in general, this parish, like the rest of the west coast, is very subject to raint from the height of the mountains and their proximity to the At- lantic. The prevalent distempers are such as arise from damp and sudden vicissitudes of weather ; such as fevers, colds, and rheu- matism. Cutaneous and scrofulous disorders are likewise common, occasioned, probably, by poor feeding and inattention to cleanliness* Geology and Mineralogy, — Our mountains are principally com- posed of gneiss, with smaller displays of quartz rock and red sand- LOCHCARRON. 109 Stone. The same gneiss rocks and clay generally meet us on the plain. In the heights of the country, limestone is found in beds in the gneiss, and is wrought for agricultural purposes by the te- nantry in the neighbourhood. In Kishorn, limestone is abundant. Hydrography. — A few chalybeate springs are scattered over dif- ferent parts of the country, but they are not of such a nature as to indicate the existence of extensive strata of iron. Zoology. — The animals which inhabit the parish are, deer, roe, fox, polecat, and weasel. Game, moorfowl, partridge, plover, and ptarmigan. In our lakes, wild-duck abound, singing-birds, thrush, lark, linnet, blackbird, and redbreast ; water-birds, gulls, (they have their nests in islands in our mountain lakes) duck, scart, curlew, sea-lark, and oyster-eater. The black eagle builds in some of the most inaccessible rocks ; but as great pains have been taken to destroy the species, it is now rare. The kite has his ey- rie. Of niigratory birds, swans visit us occasionally in winter, wag- tail in February, swallow in April, and cuckoo about the same time. In the river Carron, salmon are. found early in the season ; but they are most numerous in June, July, and August ; during which months, sea trout also come up in considerable numbers. Forty years ago, a common fisher could easily take with the rod twenty salmon in a day ; at present, the most experienced angler will be 'contented with one good fish. Several species of fishes are taken in the Frith, but herring may be said to be the only species of im- portance in an economical point of view. The herring fishing has been unsuccessful for the last ten years : and may now be consi- dered rather a losing concern, inasmuch as the profits of the few favourable seasons can hardly counterbalance the outlays of these and other seasons, during which a supply for home consumption is the utmost that can be secured. II. — Civil History. Impenetrable darkness rests on the history of this district till within a late period. It was. for many ages the scene of the barbarous depredations of contending clans, who, as the use of letters was little known among them, left no other memorial of their transactions than the dubious records of traditional poetry. At an early period, the parish was in the possession of several chiefs, — the principal of whom was Macdonald of Glengarry, who had the western part at Strome. All these were gradually dispos- • 110 ROSS AND CROMARTY. # sessed by Seaforth Lord Kintail, who took the Castle of Strome in 1609, as recorded in the last Statistical Account* Not farther back than the middle of last century, the inhabitants of this district were involved in the most dissolute barbarity. The re« cords of presbytery, which commence in 1724, are stained with an account of black and bloody crimes, exhibiting a picture of wildness, ferocity, and gross indulgence, consistent only with a state of sava- gism. The people, under the influence of no religion, but, from political considerations, attached to Episcopacy, conceived a rooted dislike to the Presbyterian system, which all the prudence of the clergy was for some time unable to eradicate. In March 1725, we find the presbytery of Gairloch (now presbytery of Lochcarron) obliged to hold a meeting at Kilmorack ; as the presbytery, to use the language of the record, had no access to meet in their own bounds, since they had been rabbled at Lochalsh on 16th September 1724, that being the day appointed for a parochial visitation there. From a petition which Mr Sage (the first Presbyterian minister of Lochcarron, settled in 1726,) presents to the presbytery in 1731, praying for an act of transport?ibility, — we see that he considered his life often in danger; that only one family attended regularly on his ministry ; and that he despaired of being of any service in the place. Mr Sage laboured in the place for forty-seven years. By his prudent conduct, he gradually conciliated the affections of the people, and mitigated the rancour of their prejudices, and was in- strumental in bringing them to a state of comparative civilization. Eminent Men. — About the time that Mr Sage was settled in the parish, flourished William and Alexander Mackenzie, brothers, the authors of some popular Gaelic poems. Such of the effusions of William as have escaped the ravages of time exhibit the difecta membra poetae^ and serve to excite our regret that so much has been lost. His elegy on his brother's death, in tenderness of sen- timent and felicity of expression, will not shrink from a compari- son with some of the most successful efforts of the cultivated muse. Antiquities. — We have no monuments of antiquity to interest the antiquarian. The ruins of Strome Castle still remain ; and on the rising ground behind Jauetown, and at Langanduin in Kis- horn, we have one of those circular buildings or duin so frequent on the west coast. III. — Population. The increase of population may be principally attributed to the division of land into lots. The village of Janetown, which at no LOCHCARRON. Ill distant period consisted of only three families, contains now a po- pulation of nearly 500. Baptisms and marriages have been regularly registered since 1819. The register kept before that time was accidentally burnt. No register of deaths. Number of persons under 15 years of age is • 774 from 15 to 30» • • 629 80 to 50, • • » 474 50 to 70. • • • 209 upwards of 70, • • • 48 Uniniirricd men above 50, • • • 18 women above 45, • • • 70 Number of children in each family, 5 or perhaps 6 on an ave- rage. Insane, 3 ; fatuous, 4 ; blind, 4 ; deaf and dumb, 4. Land'-oumers. — Landed proprietors two. Lanffuoffe of the People. — The language generally spoken is Gaelic ; but English is spoken by a great proportion of the younger people. Gaelic cannot be said to have lost ground for the last forty years ; but it has been much corrupted by our fre- quent intercourse with the south, and the silly vanity of persons, who wish it to be understood, that they know something of another language. HabitSy Sfc. of the Peo/?Ze.— The ordinary food of the pea- santry is potatoes and herring twice a-day, and oatmeal gruel for supper. Those in better circumstances have, besides, oat cake, butter and cheese, and in winter and spring use for dinner, broth and mutton as a substitute for herring. Of the houses, some are of turf, but the greater part of stone frequently C^uilt with lime. The roof is covered over with turf, — above which, there is a coat of heather or ferns. There is seldom a chimney to the houses. The fire is kindled alongside of the wall, or a stone in the cen- tre of the room, and the smoke reeks its way out at the roof, or door, or windows. The windows generally consist of wooden shutters, made to open at pleasure and admit the fresh air. The floors are of clay and mud. In many houses, the cattle are under the same roof, and even enter at the same door with the family, and are only separated from them by a partition of boards, wattles, or stone, having a door in the middle. As will be readily imagined, the space between this partition and the outer door is sometimes so dirty, that it is difiicult for him who enters to pick out a clean foot- ing. The greater part of the people do certainly not enjoy the comforts of society, and they are far from being satisfied with their situation and circumstances. Those living on the coast, particu- iri ROSS AND CROMARTY. larly depending for their subsistence .upon the herring fishing, a fluctuating and precarious employment, are frequently in a Teiy poor condition. But they have their lands cheaper, and are on the whole in better circumstances than the peasantry of the neighbouring parishes. The people are industrious and oblig- ing. They are naturally acute, and such as have had the advan- tages of education are intelligent. With respect to religion, there is a considerable excitement, and a considerable profession. From the practice introduced by the late minister, of causing the people to deliver their sentiments on religion publicly at fellowship meet- ings, many show a wonderful facility in talking upon such subjects ; but close observation enables us to perceive that their knowledge is merely superficial. To the peculiar phrases used by them, they are found to attach no definite ideas ; and if the ideas which the phrases convey are expressed in another language, the words of which they understand, they do not recognize them. What is most to be blamed, is a general addiction to flattery and infidelity to engagements. The number of illegitimate children in the parish during the last three years was 4. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Number of acres, standard imperial measure, in tlie parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, .... 1238 Number of acres that might, with a profitable application of capital, be added to the cultivated land of the parish, .... 200 Number of acres under wood, ...... 1500 Produce. — Average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic ani- mals, . . . . . . L. 1G20 Potatoes and turnips, * . . . . 20S5 Hay, ....... 585 I«and in pasture for cows, .... 1250 For sheep, . . . . . J50O Annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, . . . 100 Fisheries, ...... 8000 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 10,090 V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Totan — Menus of Communication. — The nearest mar- ket-town is Dingwall, fifty miles distant ; but family supplies are generally got from Inverness, to which there is a regular commu- nication by carriers. Our roads are excellent. Carriages of all descriptions visit us. We have a post-office in Janetown, where the mails arrive three times a-week. 8 LOCHCARttON. 113 Ecclesiastical State. — The church was built in 1751. It is si- tuated in the centre of the parish, and as the roads are good, it is pretty convenient for the greater part of the population. It aflFords accommodation for upwards of 300, but is a miserable edifice, al- most unfit for the exercise of public worship. The glebe contains 10 arable acres, and pasture for 6 cows and 150 sheep. The stipend is the minimum. There is no Episco- palian in the parish, and only one Roman Catholic, a woman. The inhabitants are partial to the Establishment; but are far from being punctual in their attendance on public worship. A cate- chist labours among them, paid by the session. There are no Dissenting or Seceding families in the parish. Education. — In the parochial school, are taught, Greek, Latin, and all the ordinary branches of education. The salary is the maximum, and the amount of school fees may be about L. ] 5. The expense of education is from 8s. to 18& per annum, according to the branches studied. At present, there is no Society school in the parish; children come therefore to the parish school, from a distance of six miles. Three additional schools are required, and they would secure an attendance of from 30 to 70 scholars. There are at present from six to fifteen years of age, 291, and upwards of fifteen, 693 persons who cannot read. The people are in general alive to the benefits of education. They are particularly anxious that a knowledge of English should be imparted to their children, from an impression that their temporal interests will be more cer- tainly promoted by a familiarity with that language. Poor. — The number of poor receiving aid from the parochial funds is fipom 25 to 30. The sum allotted to each is small. Our church collections do not amount to L. 8 per annum, and there is no other mode of procuring funds besides the fines imposed on de- linquents. Fairs. — The only fair held in the parish is the new Kelso mar- ket, on the first Monday of June. At one time, it was a consi- derable fair for cattle, but now it has dwindled into an annual term for settling accounts and drinking whisky. jfins. — There are 2 inns in the parish, and 2 dram-houses. The resort of the younger part of the people to these places tends much to corrupt their morals. Puel. — The fuel used is dried moss, procured at no other ex- pense than the labour of lifting it. ROSS AND CROMARTY. H 114 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Account was drawn up, considerable improve* ments have taken place in agriculture, persons of skill and capital have introduced an approved system of husbandry, and their example has been speedily followed by the tenantry. To promote the com- fort of the people, it would be necessary to give longer leases, so as to encourage a spirit of improvement, and to let the lands at a cheaper rate, that the produce might pay the rents without any other resource, (which is now for from being the case,) and to af- ford employment to the labouring classes, by introducing judicious improvements at the expense of the proprietors. In diffusing among them the blessings of knowledge, much might be done by the introduction of a more efficient syst.em of education, by the establishment of parochial libraries, and the circulation of cheap periodicals. P. S. Since the above Account was written, the church has been condemned by the presbytery ; and it is confidently expected, that the heritors of Lochcarron will erect the house of worship, to be built in its stead, in a style worthy of the object and the situation* The rental may be stated at not less than L.2500. At the death of the late incumbent (the author of the last Statistical Account,) the glebe of Lochcarron scarcely contained 5 acres of arable land, properly so called ; 5 acres more are now in good heart ; and 10 acres are in progress of cultivation. The whole extent of the glebe, from the loch to the top of the hill, may, at a rough guess, be said to be two miles in length, by half a mile in breadth ; a goodly pasturage, without doubt, were its nature equal to its extent September \&^^ ISLAND OF LEWIS. PARISH OF STORNOWAY. PRESByXERY OF LEWIS, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV. JOHN CAMERON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parish of Stonioway is situated in the island of Lewis, and derives its name from the point of land on which the town of Stornoway is situated. Strong in the language of the coun- try, signifies a nose, Stron-a hhaigh^ the nose of the bay. It appears that the ancient orthography of the word was Stronoway, from which, by the transposition of the letter r, comes the modern name of the town and parish. In Dean Monroe's account of Lewis, the name of the bay is written Steornoway ; and in Martin's history of the Western Isles, it is called Sternbay and Stornbay. ' In the former Statistical Account, the ancient name of the pa- fish is said to have been Uy, which in the Danish language signi- fies an isthmus or neck of land. Certain it is, that the only place of worship in the parish was built on an isthmus. But, from time out of memory, the parish consisted of three districts, viz. Storno- way, Gress, and UL In each district, there was a place of worship erected ; and the ruined walls of two chapels are still remaining, one at Ui, the other at Gress. It was only within the last forty years, that the ancient place of worship in Stornoway was levelled, for the purpose of building a safer and more commodious church for the increasing population. The church of Stornoway was dedicated to St Lennan, that of Ui to St Collum, and that of Gress to St Aula. In the district of Ui, the ruins of another chapel are visible ; it was dedicated to St Cowstan. All these churches were sanctuaries in ancient times, within the walls of which all criminals were safe. — (Vide Martin's Account.) Extent — The length of this parish from the water of Creid to north Tolsta, is fully 16 miles ; its breadth from Tuimpan head, 116 ROSS AND CROMARTY. including the broad bay to the top of Mournack hill) is 10 miles; giving at least 160 square miles of land and water. Boundaries, — It is bounded by the parish of Barvas and the dis- trict of Ness, on the north ; on the east and north-east, by the chan- nel between Lewis and the mainland called the Minch ; and by the parishes of Lochs and Uig, on the south and west The figure of the parish is irregular ; it has some similarity to an inverted Italian /<, the straight line extending from the Creid to Tolsta, the bent limb from Tuimpan-head round Chicken-head to the castle. There is only one hill of any note in this parish ; its name is Mournack, or Mounac. It lies between Barvas and Stomoway. Though the coast is boM and rocky in some parts, in general there is a gentle acclivity ; the ascent is rarely abrupt. This hill is the first land visible to those who cross the Minch to Stomoway from the mainland ; its elevation above the level of the sea does not exceed 700 feet ; it is of a spheroidal shape ; its range is north-east and south-west Caves^ Sfc, — There are several caves and fissures on the coast; but three are particularly worthy of notice. One at Garra-ghu- ism on the farm of Coll, has two chambers with vaulted roofs, and a finely sanded floor. The sides of the chambers are beautifully and closely studded with small mussels, which reflect a variety of co- lours, in a clear day, to the eye of the observer. The entrance is 8 feet high, by 14 feet broad or wide; depth and length within, 15 by 30 feet ; it is accessible only at spring tides. There are two caves about the distance of an English mile from Gross House, both of which are spacious ; but the Seal cave is the most remarkable in the island. It is about a furlong in length from the entrance to high water-mark in the interior. Its height and breadth are variable. The cave at the mouth, is about ten feet wide : it gradually decreases to four feet in breadth ; and after this, it wid- ens and terminates in a spacious semicircle, irregularly arched, and containing a deep bason of water. Here, the roof is very lofty, and resplendent when viewed by torch-light. Beyond the margin of the basin, is a sandy and gravelly beach, very pleasant and acceptable after such a dark navigation. There is a small apartment in the interior, which by torch-light produces a fine effect ; the pearly ici- cles of satalactite suspended from the roof, reflect the light as from so many diamonds. The sides and roof of the cave are lined with this concreted matter. The natives, and strangers who have visited LEWIS STORNOWAY. 1 I 7 the cave, broke and caitied away many of the finest icicles ; but with a short respite, the plastic power of nature can restore the injury d one by man. This cave had been the rendezvous of the seals which frequent- ed the Broad bay for ages ; great shoals of which were seen about the entrance, by fishermen and herdsmen from the tops of the rocks. Curiosity, and the hope of securing the seals, induced some of the people to enter, armed with iron shod clubs and torches. By guarding the entrance as much as possible, the work of destruction commen- ced within, and vast numbers of these animals were killed. For se- veral years, there was, about the Michaelmas term, an annual visit of the seals to the cave ; but finding their retreat discovered, and themselves so much disturbed, they now seldom enter the spacious ball of their ancestors. Through the kind attentions of Lewis M*Iver, Esq., tacksman of Gross, several strangers had an opportunity of visiting this won- derful cave. Its celebrity is increasing : and it is supposed to be only second to the spar cave in Skye. The icicles and crustation are similar ; the mouths of the caverns front each other, though distant eighty miles. Cocut^ Sfc. — The sea-coast is much indented. It is bold and rocky in many places; and should a person walk along the shore, the beach- es, and headlands, he would at Jeast travel the extent of fifty miles in the parish. The shore, where the beach is flat, consists of beautiful sand, as the sands of Tong, Melbost, Ui, Coll, Gross, and Tolsta. Blue and red clay are found on some parts of the coast Of the red clay, the indigenous islanders make vesseb cal- led Craggans, in which they keep their milk and carry water from the springs. Where the coast is bold and rugged, it consists of shelving rocks, which form an angle of small inclination, as in the bight of Shelwick below Gross : in other parts of the coast, they lie in an horizontal position. Kneess is a bold lofty perpendicular wall of puddingstone, many fathoms in height. Bay$. — The principal bays are Broad bay. Loch or bay of Stor- noway. Loch Ure, Bayble and Tolsta bay. The Broad bay is not safe for stranger vessels, as there is a sunken reef branching from Gross to the Aird of Tong, and Isthmus of Ui : but vessels belonging to the island, and others, once acquainted with the mooring stations, are often sheltered here from the south and south-east winds. By moon- light, strangers are often deceived when going to the southward. The isthmus of Ui lies low, and is not 200 yards broad in some parts. 118 ROSS AND CROMARTY. The water in Loch Ui seems to be one continued sheet with this Broad bay. Several vessels have been wrecked in consequeDce of this illusion, — supposing they were sailing all the while between the Schante islands and the Harris land. The loch or bay of Stornoway is a safe harbour; two hundred vessels of any burden can safely anchor in it. The ground is good, and no heavy sea can injure vessels. The hills and town, which sur- round the harbour, shelter them from the west and north ; the Point of Amish and Island Gowell, form a breakwater and shel- ter, on the south. The headlands are five, Tolsta head, Kneess near Gross, Tu- impan-head. Chicken-head, and Holm-point There are no islands of any size on the coast, in the parish ; but there are two small ones at Holm and Island Gowell, at the mouth of the harbour of Stor- noway. Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere is variable, the climate very rainy, — and the air extremely moist, insomuch that when a person walks by the sea side, in a hazy atmosphere and un- der a cloudy sky, the saline particles rest like dew on the pile of his coat. The dampness of the air is such, that in rooms wherein fires are not constantly kept, the walls emit a hoary down of a brinish taste, resembling pounded saltpetre, when brushed off. The cli- mate is an enemy to polished iron and to books. Fire-irons rust in the space of twenty-four hours without constant fire; and books are covered with a greyish-yellow mould, unless frequently wiped. Frequent and heavy rains fall at all seasons, especially after the Lammas term, whereby the hopes of the husbandman are often blast- ed, and the fruit of his toil and industry in a great measure lost. But such a climate may be naturally expected in an island lying so far north, in latitude 58% and surrounded by the Atlantic on the west and south ; and by the Pentland Frith on the north-east And though there are few high hills on the north-east part of the island, to break or attract the clouds, still the extensive and deep tract of moss, many miles in length and breadth, with the combined in- fluence of a hundred fresh-water lakes, continually emitting exha- lations, attract the passing clouds as effectually as lofty mountains do in other places. The drapery of the morning and evening clouds is strikingly rich and grand. The luminous meteors are uncommonly splen- did. The halo around the moon is sometimes of a very large diameter, and is almost weekly visible, during the winter. The Au- LEWIS STORNOWAY. 1 19 rora Borealis in brilliancy far surpasses any appearance of the kind seen on the mainland. The prevailing winds are the south-west and the west. They invariably bring torrents of rain, if continuing forty-eight hours from these points. The north and north-east winds are cold and dry, in the end of spring and beginning of summer ; at the latter season they prevail for a month or six weeks ; and if from the north- east the gardens are infested with caterpillars. Diseases. — There is one peculiar distemper prevalent in this island, which seizes infants about the fifth night after their birth, and carries them offin convulsive fits. Alexander M*Iver, Esq. surgeon, has favoured me with the following statement : " The climate of Lewis is chiefly remarkable for its extreme humidity, and for the change which, within the last twenty years, has taken place in it, in regard to mildness. Even in winter, excessive cold is now unknown, — it being a rare occurrence for snow to remain three successive days on the ground, although formerly this season was very frequently ri- gorous. The proximity of the western ocean, the mossy nature of the soil, and the almost invariable flatness of the surface, combine to im- press these characters on the climate of this island. The diseases to which the inhabitants are most liable, are those which proceed from exposure to dampness and cold, as inflammatory diseases ; and those which are produced by the continued use of vegetable diet, such as dyspepsia and dropsy. These distempers, the unceasing hardships and toil to which the people are subjected from their youth, and the want of that vigour which nutritious food gives to the frame, being inimical to longevity, the lower classes, but more par- ticularly the male portion of them, may be said to die, in general, at an early age. The disease incident to infants, which is vulgarly called by the name of * the fifth night's sickness,' is the Trismus infantum, or infant lock-jaw. It appears most frequently in moun- tainous districts, and seldom admits of cure." Hydrography — Friths. — No Friths intersect the parish, but the Broad-bay, which, at the entrance between Tuimpan-head and Kneess, is (our miles broad. It runs inland about ten miles ; and at spring tides, its water reaches within half a-mile of Stornoway to the north of Bay-head. Its colour is a dark green with a bluish tinge ; its depth varies from four to twenty fathoms. Luminous globules appear on the surface when agitated ; the fishermen's oars at night seem of a golden brilliancy ; and a flaming stream rushes from the helm of the vessel or boat In shallow water on the 120 ROSS AND CllOMARTY. sands of Tong, by the motion of my horse's feet, beautiful golden stars, of the size of half a-crown, are made to float on the sur&cet for a few seconds ; these disappear, and are succeeded by others, often to the terror of the animal. It is probable these appearancei arise from the decaying particles of fish which float on the surface ; and when the water is troubled, the air escaping forms a globule, which emits a phosphorescent light before it bursts. The brine must be strong, for the water left in shallow basins on the rocks it converted into salt, when the summer heat is strong. The cur- rent in the Broad-bay flows south and ebbs north, — though in the Minch the flood is to the north, and the ebb to the south. Springs, — There are perennial springs in the parish, the water of which is most excellent ; but many of the natives, rather than be at the trouble of digging for wells, drink mossy and surface wa- ter. Martin relates, that the well St Cowstans in Garrabost ne?er boils any kind of meat, however long subjected to the fire ; and this holds true, I presume, of every water, when the fuel is wet and the fire of insuflicient strength. Lakes. — Lakes or lochs are numerous, and cover many acres ; but the largest does not exceed three miles in circumference ; the greatest depth, two fathoms. The scenery is bleak and dreary. Wa- ter occupies 204 acres. There are six streams of considerable size in the parish, viz* the Creid, Laxdale, Tong, Upper and Nether Coll rivers, and the Gress. The course of the longest, from its source to the sea, is about ten miles. The Creid and Gress are the largest and most rapid. The velocity of these is seven miles an hour ; breadth 80 feet ; depth 4 feet at low water. The tide enters all these. The Creid joins the sea in Loch Stomoway. Laxdale, Coll, Tong, and Gress, discharge their waters into the Broad bay. Geology and Mineralogy. — The island of Lewis was not inap- propriately compared to a gold laced hat in the former Statistical Account ; for the cultivated parts of the coast bear the same pro- portion, as yet, to the bleak moss in the interior, as the gold lace on the rim of the hat, to the whole superficies of the chapeau* There is abundance of sand on the sea-shore ; some clay, and a little lime at Garrabost. There is also a great appearance of bog- iron, if we may judge from numerous chalybeate springs. There is a large whinstone dike with parallel walls, on the farm of Gress. It is supposed to run across the island, as a similar dike is seen at the Butt of Lewis on the north, and at Garrabost in a southerly direction. LEWIS 6TORNOWAY. 121 The peat is the best in the world, hard and black ; when tho- roughly dried, it gives light and heat equal to those of coals. Soih. — The soil is of different kinds, some sandy, gravelly, or of black earth, — but the grater part mossy, — all lying on a hard red clay bottom, so very impenetrable, that the pick will scarce pierce it Moss, red clay, and sand, especially shelly sand, when pro- perly mixed, drained, and well manured, make good soil, and give a feir crop. But the wet winters and springs take the pith out of the soil. The rain is not absorbed rapidly by the red clay tilly bottom ; and when the field is a flat level, it is quite inundated; and where it slopes, the soil is gradually washed away from the top of the field to the bottom. The plants most frequently found in the arable ground are, the sorrel, Rumex acetosella^ sealbhag, thistle, carduus, cluaran, chick- weed, mouse-ear, cerastium, horse-tail, equisetum, and wincopipe. The island of Lewis is a full century behind other parts of Scot* land, in agricultural and domestic improvements, the town and in- habitants of Stornoway excepted, and a few tacksmen. With re- spect to agricultural improvement, it is the most backward of all the Hebrides. A great deal has been done, during the last twelve years, by consuming the moss, draining and trenching; and if these operations be continued with vigour, very great improvement may be expected. Zoology. — Many animals common in other places are unknown in this parish, viz. frogs, toads, foxes, and partridges. One frog was thrown, last summer, on the quay, from the hold of a ship which brought potatoes from the mainland, and curiosity brought many to see the reptile stranger. Serpents, two feet long and one inch diameter, are frequently met with by herds, in the moors. They sting or bite the cattle, by which they swell, and sometimes die. The usual cure for this swelling, is water in which the preserved head of a serpent has been put, and which is given to the animal affected, and its whole body washed with it. When serpents are killed, their heads are chopped off and preserved for this purpose. The Linneean second class of natural history, viz. Aves, is com- plete here. The six orders are found : Accipitres, or the falcon-kind ; Picae, sea-pies ; Anseres, Grallae, Gallinae, and Passeres. Eagles, falcons, and hawks are numerous; the raven and grey carrion crow are destructive to lambs and weak sheep. I lately saw two ravens rest on a sheep's back while the animal was feeding, pierce a 122 ROSS AND CROMARTY. hole above the hind haunch, and pull out the intestines before it fell. The wild goose, rain-goose, swan, teal-duck, common wild duck and drake, wigeon, sheldrake, puffins, guillemots, solan goose, plover, wild pigeons, and grouse in abundance are found here. A few robins, numerous larks, thrushes and starlings. The cuckoo visits us, but makes a very short stay. The sand-martin is the only one of the swallow tribe that visits the island ; the songsters of the grove are few. The common house-sparrow, FringiUa dty* mestica^ has only of late visited the island. There are two pair just now in Stornoway, hatching. The gardens miss them very much, for the caterpillar, which has been unknown in this parish twenty years ago, is now a great plague. If this small bird could thrive in Stornoway, it would be a considerable boon, for it has been found, by actual observation, that two sparrpws carried to their nest forty caterpillars, in an hour. The late Lord Seaforth im- ported partridges, but they are now extinct Whether they were killed, died, or did not like the climate, is uncertain. The hares which were brought along with them, are very numerous. The black-cattle, horses, and sheep, are rather of a diminutive size. They are too numerous by one-half; a small tenant that pays annually L. 3 Sterling, keeps seven or eight beasts. One farm yields L. 40 of rent. It is occupied by ten families, who have eighty head of cattle, miserable starved beasts. In winter, they can gather very little pasture on the moor ; and during snow, they are driven to the shore to feed on ware. Alga marina. It is a mistaken kind- ness in the proprietor to permit the small tenants to keep so many beasts, — for one would be better than two ; it would be better fed, and bring more cash at the tryst The farmers or tacksmen keep a larger breed of horses for riding and for the cart; but, in general, the horses are not much higher than the Shetland ponies. They are firm and strong, fit for the mossy soil and rocky shore. Their principal work is in carrying peats and sea-ware in creels, one hung on each side from the crook-saddle. Many of them are of beau- tiful symmetry.* The sheep are principally of the black-faced breed, rather small ; but the mutton good, and very sweet ; and Lewis beef, when for a short time on mainland pasture, is prover- bial for delicacy and fineness. Hogs are not numerous, as the natives have a strong antipathy to them and their flesh. More swine and fewer horned cattle would • Mr S. M*Kcii7.ie sent four from Lewis to his late Majesty George IV. as a pre- sent, and a s|iecimen of insular strength and symmetry in small compass, <^ muUum in parvo.'' LEWIS STORNOWAY. 123 be more profitable for a Lewis man, in the present state of the market ; because, for his two year old stots, he will sometimes not get above L. 1; and for a pig one year old, he will get the same, and a ready market for ship stores. Besides, one pig for making manure is better than two stots. Black cattle are sold from L. 1 to L. 6 per head ; sheep from 5s. to 10s. per head ; lambs from Is. 6d. to 4s. 6d. ; horses from L. 3 to L. 7 of the small kind, — others used by the farmers from L. 10 to L. 20. The fresh water lochs are numerous, and contain black trout of a small size. In the three rivers, the Creid, Tong, and Gress, a few salmon and sea-trout are caught, by the trawl. Insects. — The common fly is here abundant; and the midge or Hebridian musquito is most annoying before rain. Out-door la- bourers find it impossible to work, without being veiled. Bees in general are not numerous ; there are only three hives in the island ; the first was imported three years ago from Ferrintosh, and they have not increased much. Wet winters and springs drown the wild bees' nests. The bees most commonly met with, are the Apis muscorum^ or cording-bee, and the Apis lapidaria or red-tailed bee. It is really surprising to find any field or wild honey here, since Flora's flowery mantle is so very bare. There are very few fruit trees in the parish to be a prey to insects. Shell'Jish. — At Tong, Coll, Gress, and Melbost sands, in the broad bay, a great variety of shell-fish is found ; — clams, mussels, limpets, whelks, razor-fish, and cockles. All these kinds are found on the Melbost sands, after a severe storm. The natives expect a bursting of the shell-fish banks, once in seven years ; then, im- mense masses are thrown up and found at low water ; but this bursting happens oftener than once in the seven years, The re- porter has seen huge heaps thrown ashore, twice during that pe- riod, — which employed many carts and creels, for several days, in carrying them away for food and manure ; the sea-fowl screaming for the depredations committed on their provision and territory. In the sands of Tong, fine large blue cockles are found, very little inferior to oysters. Scores of children are employed gathering them for the hand-line bait ; the fishers parboil them ; they ad- here well to the hook, and the fish seem to relish them. Lobsters are caught and sold at 4d. each. Limpets and the whelk or com- mon buckie are fished in deep water, and sold to the cod smacks for bait at 6d. per peck. The manner of fishing them in deep water, where the tide does not fall much, is this : Two men or boys 124 HOSS AND CROMARTY. go out with their boat, having as many cod heads as they can col- lect. A cord is drawn through the Hp, and fastened so that the head may not slip off. Another head is similarly fastened at the distance of one yard or fathom, according to the number of heads used, and the length of the line ; the whole line is then run out, sunk, and allowed to remain for an hour or two. Afterwards, they begin to raise the heads, and scrape off the buckies which stick to the cod*s head, — which is then, again let down, as near to the same spot as may be, for many more whelks were on their way to the feast, that could not be accommodated at the first course^ — ^but in succession these are taken by the process now described. The boatmen are kept busy while they remain. Botany. — Nature has not been bountiful to this region, in re- gard to plants. The scarcity of money prevents the natives from purchasing various articles which might lessen their labour in do- mestic purposes, especially in the dyeing of wearing apparel and blankets. Till of late, and even now, the dyes in use are made from Erica or heather, or from Senecio jacobcBat common ragwort. These boiled with woollen yarn make a yellow dye, or ground for blue. Both these bind the colour, so that the blue colour improves when washed. The Tormentilla reptans^ trailing tormentil or Bar-braonan-nan-con chact-bhlar, is used for barking herring-oets and hides for leather. The Tussilapo hybrida, butter-bur, or gal- lan*mor, and Rumex acetosellaj sorrel or sealbhag, are used for a black dye. Dr M^ver, before-mentioned, gives me the following notice ; ^^ The medicinal plants discovered in this island have been so very few, and the quantity in which they were found so trifling, that they are wholly undeserving of notice. Indeed heather, of which there are many kinds, seems to be the only indigenous pro- duction of its soil" All the culinary plants in common use, in other parts of Scot- land, can be raised, if the soil be previously enriched, and due attention paid to the cultivation. Mugwort and wild spinage, betony, colts-foot, Plantago major (baash phadice,) Plantago lan^- ceolattty ribwort, plantain or slan-lu«, are occasionally used for healing external and internal bruises. There is scarcely any wood in the island, except a few bark- bound birches in the parish of Lochs. A few trees, for trial, were planted on a burn-side, Alt-na-brog, near Seaforth Lodge. These seem in a thriving state ; but they are sheltered. Out of Stomo- LEWIS — STORNOWAY . 1 25 way, there is scarcely anything like a tree seen, except a few wil- lows in gardens, and even these become stunted when they overtop the wall. The greater part of the island seems to have been wooded in ancient times, as roots of trees are dug out of the moss ; hazel nut shells are found, when the people cut their peats, at the depth of 14 feet. According to tradition, the Norwegians, to monopolize the timber trade, had set all the wood on fire, when they landed in the North Hebrides. But another account is more probable, which bears, that, when the invaders were often surprised by the natives lying in ambush and sallying forth upon them, they burnt the woods that they might see their opponents at a distance in open field, and attack them in aperto loco, IL — Civil History. The historians who have given any account of the island of Lewis and of Stornoway, are Dean Monroe, Spottiswood, Martin, James McDonald, A. M., and finally, Macculloch, though severe yet true. Maps, plans, and surveys of the parish are in the possession of Mr S. M'Kenzie. Tradition relates that, in the chapel at Ui, eighteen lairds of M'Leod, the original possessors of the island, were buried under one stone. William Earl Seaforth lies there interred. Eminent Men, — Two eminent characters were bom in this parish, — Sir Alexander M^Kenzie of Avoch, celebrated for his travels and discoveries in the continent of North America ; and Colonel Colin M'Kenzie of the East India Company's service, distinguished by his voluminous writings, still in manuscript, and his researches into the antiquities of India. The latter left L. 30,000 to Miss Mary M'Kenzie Cam, his sister, who at her death bequeathed to the poor of Stornoway the interest of L. 140, — leaving, besides, L. 300 to help to build a female school in Stornoway. She left her house and plate to Murdo M*Kenzie, Esq. Calcutta, a young man who, by perseverance, industry, and attention to business, was enabled, in a few years, to retire with a comfortable independence, and now resides in Stornoway with his lady, assisting many families and relatives. From this parish, went forth to different quarters of the globe, several young men of respectable talents, some preachers and lay- men, who filled reputable stations in society, and by their conduct reflected honour on their native isle. Land'-otoner, — The only land-owner in the parish is James A. 12G ROSS AND CROMARTY*. Stewart M*Kenzie, Esq. of Seaforth, M. P. ; be is married to the eldest daughter of the late Lord Seaforth, by whom he has a kige family. Registers. — The earliest entry in the parochial register is dated 1780; the record was discontinued in 1791. Since 1825, the re- gisters have been regularly kept, and weekly entries are made by the session-clerk. Antiquities. — The religious houses or chapels now in ruins are, St CoUums in Ui ; St Cowstans in Garrabost ; and St Aula in Gress, formerly mentioned. The chapel at Ui has htTong walls still standing. The south-west end of it is roofed and slated ; the minister of Stornoway used to preach there, once in six weeks, be- fore the Government church was erected. Part of the walls of St Aula remain ; but the chapel near Garrabost is levelled. Time is a large cairn in the moor, above Gress House, — under which, report says, the bones of a Norwegian warrior rest On the nose of the bay which gives name to the town, there is remaining a frag- ment of a wall, 12 feet high and 4 feet thick, — the wall of a castle built for the protection of the place by the Macleods, the ancient possessors of the island ; and at a short distance from this castle, Oliver Cromwell is said to have built a tower to awe the in- habitants, no vestige of which now remains. One of the streets is named Cromwell Street. Modem Buildings. — The modern buildings are Seaforth Lodge, the church, St John's Lodge or Masons' Hall, neat and spacious; a female school jointly endowed by Mrs S. M^Kenzie and Miss Mary M'Kenzie Cam, who gave L.300 Sterling; three mills, one for grinding corn, with a saw-mill and excellent kiln appended to it, — the other for carding wool, — all built by the proprietors at a considerable expense, and perfectly complete in their kind. Few mills in Scotland can surpass them in machinery or in utility; a premium was awarded for the carding-mill. There is also a dis- tillery on a grand scale, with coppers of large diameter, furnaces, vats, coolers, flake-stands under a running stream ; also a very large malt-barn and mill. The grain can be received from ships, at the barn door. Vessels can be either loaded or unloaded with the greatest convenience and expedition. The whole premises and apparatus are constructed upon the most improved plans. It must have cost thousands of pounds to complete such a perfect modeL No expense had been spared by the spirited proprietor to make it complete; but it is not yet in operation. A light-house is being built 4 LEWIS — STORNOWAY. 127 on the point of Arnish, that will enable vessels to make the harbour at nighty — which attempt, hitherto, was not considered advisable but by those well acquainted with the ground. The site had been chosen and fixed upon by the proprietor, and Captain Benjamin Oliver of his Msyesty's Revenue Cruizer Prince of Wales. There is one rope-walk here. III. — Population. The ancient state of the population of the parish is, at present, unknown. The records, which might have thrown some light on that subject, were lost in 1740. Formerly, the presbyteries of Lewis and Uist were united and called the presbytery of the Long Island. During their union, for the accommodation of members, the pres- bytery seat was migratory ; and it is reported that, when a member of presbytery was returning to Lewis, the boat upset, the crew and passengers drowned, and the records lost The amount of populadon in 1750 was - - 1836 1755, according to Dr Webster, 1812 1796, - . - 2639 1801, - - 2974 1821, - - - 4119 1331, . - 5491 'Die number of males is 2494, of females 2997, The yearly average of births for the last seven years, - 142 of deaths, - - - 90 of marriages, - • - 40 The number of persons under 15 years of age, - - 2372 betwixt 15 and 30, - - 1321 30 and 50, - - - 1110 50 and 70, - . - 534 upwards of 70, - - 1 54 The number of bachelors and of widowers alxn-e 50, - 36 of unmarried women upwards of 46, - - 77 of families in the parish, ... 1077 of children in each family, - . - 5 of inhabited houses, - - - 1035 of uninhabited houses, - - - 23 Various causes may have contributed to increase the popula- tion. A brisk trade in fishing contributed considerably to its increase, for a period of eight years. From 1800 to 1808, a sum of L. 70,000 was circulated by means of the herring, cod, and ling fishings, and oil. The extension of arable land or moss brought into culture, and the poverty of the people in the neighbouring parishes, tend to increase the population of Stornoway. Those who cannot emigrate to foreign lands, congregrate in Stornoway, for the purpose of getting work. The population of the island is esti • mated at 14,000. The number residing in the town and within a mile of Stornoway, is 3000 : the number residing in the country, viz. the districts of Gress and Ui, is 2561. 12B ROSS AND CROMARTY. Individuals of independent fortune in the parish are few. Character^ Sfc. of the People. — The people, in strength, com- plexion, and size, resemble their neighbours in the Hebrides. In general, they are more swarthy than the people on themainlaod; but this is occasioned by their being enveloped in the peat-smoke of their houses. They are capable of bearing great fatigue and a long fast. Graelic is the language generally spoken. It has lost ground very little except in Stornoway ; and even there, all born in the town speak Gaelic, though the principal inhabitants prefer the English, Throughout the parish, the Gaelic is a good deal corrupted, for many interlard their sentences by introducing English words with the termination ikuk, such as callikuk and meanikuk, viz. calHng and meaning, &c. The names of farms are evidently derived from the Danes and Norwegians, as Tolsta, Shadir, and Sheshadir, which signify six men, or a portion of land sufficient to support six fami- lies. Dosf denotes a farm, as Garrabost, the short rigged farmy and Melbost, the honeyed or pleasant farm. The principal amusements are the club and shinty, quoits or discus, and the putting-stone. In the town of Stornoway, the ha- bits of the people resemble those of their neighbours in the south : they have neat slate houses, many of which are not only well but elegantly furnishedl The inhabitants of the town are active and pubHc spirited, forming a striking contrast to the rest of the parish and of the island. The houses in the country, excepting the tacks- men's, are sordid huts — in general, indescribably^filthy. There is only an annual sweeping of their houses. The people and cattle are under the same roof and on the same area. Very few of the country dwellings have a single pane of glass. There is one hole in the roof to allow the excess of smoke to escape, and another on the top of the wall, — the latter at night or during a storm through the day being stopped with a wisp. Where a sufficient supply of stones can be found, the walls of the houses are from four to six feet thick, and consist of an outer and inner face, — the intervening space being crammed with earth or pounded moss. Wood is so scarce and so dear, that it cannot be had in sufficient quantity to make a good roof. A rafter twelve feet long and three inches in diameter, will cost dd. ; and other timber, in proportion. The roofs have no eaves. The thatch, in general, is made of stubble or potato stalks which are spread on the scanty wooden roof, and bound by heather or straw ropes, which again arc, at each side of LEWIS ^STORNbWAY. 129 the roof, fastened by stones called anchors, resting oh the top of the broad wall. On this wall, it is no unusual sight to see sheep and calves feeding, and making a short passage into the byre, through the roof. The doors of the houses are so low, that who- ever would gain admittance must humble himself, and continue in that posture till he reach the fire, which is always in the middle of the floor ; and very often, he must grope his way or be led by the hand. From the slightness of the wooden rafters, much straw or stubble cannot be laid for thatch ; but just sufficient to exclude the day-light. The thatch is not expected at first to keep out much rain, until it is property saturated with soot ; but to com- pensate for this defect, the inmates are practical chemists ; they keep plenty of peats on the fire ; the interior is soon filled with smoke; the smoke and increasing heat repel the rain, for a great proportion of what fell on the roof is returned to the atmosphere by evaporation. These houses after a smart shower, appear like so many salt pans or breweries in operation. The thatch of the houses, saturated by the smoke with sooty particles, is considered valuable; for, every summer, the roof is strip- ped, and the inner layer of straw which . contains the soot is car- ried carefully to the potato or barley field, and strewed on the crop. This gives a wonderful stimulus to vegetation ; and in a few days, a very sensible difference is visible in the colour and strength of the plants, especially if a warm slight shower should fall soon aftier strewing the sooty straw. Though this practice is generally pursued, from the scarcity of manure, the soot, as an ex- cessive stimulant, is doubtless injurious to the soil. The proprietor and his lady have ordered, at the present set or lease, that there should be in these dwellings, a separation, by partition, between the rational and the irrational inmates, and that more light should be admitted into the dark recesses of their habi-* tations, by one window at least In several instances, a reformation has already taken place, but sorely against the will of the people. The peasantry do not much experience the want of food. In winter, the most of them may have beef and fish if they choose. But potatoes and gruel make their ordinary meals. They exert themselves much, in order to pay their rents and little debts ; but none need be in absolute want, if they have health, except through laziness. Sometimes in summer, after a severe winter, having given their potatoes to the cattle, they fall short of provisions ; but while ROSS AND CROMARTY. I 130 ROSS AND CROMARTY. the sea is open, and plenty of shell-fish on the shore, they cannot be in absolute want. The dress of the country people in this parish is made of kali and plaiden, their own manufacture ; their coats and short clones are made of gray and blue stuff; cotton and check shirts are worn on Sundays ; but through the week, plaiden shirts, Hebridian flannel. Though the people, in general, have not the many comforts which others in the south enjoy, they have fewer wants, and are easily satisfied. Their principal complaint is of high rents and short leases. They possess, in general, a pacific disposition ; and are remarkably shrewd, inquisitive, quick, communicative, and fond of novelty. They possess an inventive genius ; and many of them have a poetic vein. Poaching in game or in salmon is not now frequent ; and smuggling has decreased very much. There can be no doubt that this is rapidly on the decline, since for the last three years the quantity of spirits imported has increased in nearly a threefold proportion, compared with former years ; and should dis- tilleries commence operation in the island as contemplated, under the auspices of spirited individuals, illicit distillation would soon disappear. Formerly, when each tenant was allowed to convert the produce of his little lot into usquebaugh or tres-tarigy that is thrice distilled, it was solely to pay his rent, — illicit distillation had not the same deteriorating effect here on the morals of the people as on the mainland. It is pleasing to add, that there are few instances of inebriety to be met with, out of the town of Stomoway. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. Tlie number of acres in tillage is^ - - - - 2700 The number of acres which have never been cultivnted, - - 15.783 The number of acres that might with capital be cultivated, . - 10»000 The number of acres in a state of undivided common, none. One acre would contain all the trees in the parish. Rent of Land, — The average rent per acre is 15s.; some land near Stornoway brings L. 3 per acre. Grazing for a cow in the year is I5s. ; for a full-grown sheep, 3s. Rate of Wages. — Male farm-servants are hired at from L. 1, 10s. to L. 6; and females, from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2, with perquisites^ clothes, and shoes ; male day-labourers in summer get from Is. to Is. 6d. without victuals; males and females get from 6d. to lOd. with two meals per day. Very little work is carried on during, win- ter, — the day being extremely short. Prices. — Country cloths, called kelt, sell from Is. 6d. to 4s. LEWIS STORNOWAV. 131 per yard of four feet. Blankets per pair from 10s. 6d. to L. 1, Is. Hides dd. per lb. ; tallow 6d. per lb. Carpenters, joiners, and ma* sons get from 2s. 6d. to ds. 6d. per day. Live-stock. — There are a few black-faced sheep in the parish. The black-cattle are small in general, but of the true Highland stamp, though the breed is low at present There are 18 Ayrshire cows in the parish. Number of ciittle, 8000. HudHindry. — There are a dozen good farms in the parish. On these, the south country implements of husbandry may be seen, as iron ploughs and harrows; but small tenants and cottars generally till the ground by the Chinese plough, of one stilt or handle, and the cas-chrom, a clumsy instrument like a large club, shod with iron at the point, and a pin at the ancle for the labourer's foot. It is a disgrace to see women working with it This antediluvian im«- plement will soon be superseded by the spade, which has now come into almost general use in this parish. The most common mode of turning the ground is by teeming^ formfngakind of lazy-beds. At this work two persons are employed, one on each side the ridge, which is seldom in a straight line, col- lecting the earth ; and the earth borrowed in this way makes a pro- per bed for the seed. Hence the scarcity of manure is not so much felt; and this kind of tillage is found to be more productive than any other. The ground being prepared, as soon as the season per- mits, the seed is sprinkled from the hand in small quantities ; the plots of ground being so small, narrow, and crooked, should the seed be cast as in large long fields, much of it would be lost. After sow- ing the seed, a harrow with a heather brush at the tail of it is iised, which men and women drag after them, by means of a rope across their breast and shoulders. The women are miserable slaves ; they do the work of brutes, carry the manure in creels on their backs from the byre to tlie field, and use their fingers as a five-pronged grape to fill them. In harvest, when the crop is ripe, no sickle b used for the bar«- ley, among the small tenants. The stalk is plucked, the ground is left bare, and consequently the soil is injured* When no stubble is left, the earth loses its winter clothing, and one-^third of tl;ie ma- nure. When the sheaves are thoroughly dry, the whole is convey- ed to the barn-yard. The sickle is then used to purpose. The sheaf is seized by the left hand, the right foot is placed on the black roots of the culm, and the sickle in the right hand is applied to within six inches of the grain or barley ear. After this guillotine operation, all the beads are formed into a \\U\o s\aO^ c^oN^T^^vCa 132 ROSS AND CROMARTY. the roots of the sheaf which had been so cut ; ofae layer of straw is piled above another like slates on the roof of a house, from the bottom to the top of the stack, which is in shape like a cone. The whole convex surface of the stack is tightlylaced round, by heather ropes, and made as tight as a bottle. The residue of the roots is for thatch. Though this method of husbandry common in the island may appear absurd, laborious, and tedious to strangers, the climate and necessity have hitherto obliged the people to adopt it. If the na* tives had the means to purchase proper implements of.husbandry, and were ordered by those in authority to pursue a different plan of tillage, the island would have, in a few years, a very different as- pect ; and without doubt the climate would change to the better. A great deal has been done, during the last ten years, and much more might still be done, in reclaiming waste land, — if there were men of capital in the island. There is a large field ; and moss mixed with shelly sand and sea-ware, would give a good crop, and be no bad subject to work upon ; for were the moss consumed till within nine inches, and the clay subsoil properly mixed with it, in a few years it would make good mould, if well manured. All the leases in the parish have nearly expired ; but they will be renewed. The parish being entailed, leases cannot properly be for more than nineteen years. > All the farm-buildings require repairs, except Sandwich, Gres89 and Laxdale cottage. The farm houses of Agnish Coll, Goat-hill, Holm shades, and Tolsta, would require a considerable sum to make them habitable and comfortable. Some dikes lately built are very good, and many others somewhat decayed. Four large fields close to Seaforth Lodge, and fronting Stomo- way, have been lately much improved by Mr S. Mackenzie. Quarries. — The best quarry in the parish is between Garrabost and Port-na-guiran ; but the greater part of the stone used in building rubble work in Stornoway, is imported either from the mainland or the parish of Lochs. There is no freestone in the island. Fisheries. — The fishing of cod, ling and herrings, is the princi- pal employment of the male population in the country : every farm and hamlet have their boats, except a few on Melbost The sea* son is divided between fishing, farming, and kelping; and mostfib- milies have a share of a boat and a lot of land. One hundred and twenty tons of cod and ling are annually caught and cured in the parish, and shipped for Ireland and the Clyde, &c The average pace per ton for cod is h. 12, and for ling L. 15. Herrings have LEWIS — STORNOWAY, 133 not been abundant for several years. They are on the coast ; but the people are not acquainted with the deep sea fishing, and their boats and nets are not fit for the operation. The Broad-bay flounder is the finest in the world. The laithe far surpasses the whiting, in delicacy and sweetness. Hake i^ a strong coarse fish, but when salted, in spring is not disagreeable food. Soles, tusk, and conger-eels are caught ; whales, grampus, and porpoise run ashore, and are often driven ashore by the fish- ers, in numbers amounting to 150 or more, and varying from 5 to 30 feet in length. The haddock is the general favourite, and is to be had, at all seasons, in the Broad-bay. There is always a ready sale for it, in Stornoway, in spring, when the salt-beef becomes tough. Haddocks fetch Is. per dozen; at other seasons, they are sold for hal^ence a-piece. The country people smoke them ; and putting salt into their eyes, the brine nms down the bone and keeps the fish firom corrupting; it gives the fish a peculiar, but no unpleasant tasle. Cured in this way, they are little inferior to Finnan haddocks. This plan was resorted to, when the salt was scarce and dear, and it is still adhered to. In the harvest season, about the end of Oc- tober, the natives, in calm weather, repair at night to the shore, with blankets sowed end to end ; and at the mouths of the rivers> where the ford is shallow, they cross and drag with them one end of the chain of blankets. They beat the water to frighten the young fry, which are very numerous ; and hauling the blankets like a net against the stream, they drive the cuddie fish to the sandy beach. In one night, by two hauls of six blankets, twenty-lour barrels of cuddies have been caught Immense quantities come up. the friths and shallows about the end of harvest. The fish is sweet and fat. From their livers, a great quantity of oil is obtained, which is some- times sold at Is. dd. per pint when scarce; at present it fetches no more than 7d. When fresh the cuddies are sold at 4d. per pecL Very few salmon are caught in this parish. The gentlemen in Stornoway give 5d. and 6d. for each cod and ling to the fishers. Produce. — The gross amount of raw produce raised in the pa- rbh is as follows : Barley or bear, 2000 quarters, at L. I, - - - L. 2000 Black oats, 1000 quarters, at 10s. - - • 500 VHiite oats, fiOO do. 15fc - - - - S70 Poutoes, 20,000 barrels, at 2s. - - - - 2000 Turnips, 20 acres, at L. 9, - - - - J80 Hay, meadow 20,000 stones, at 6d. - - - - 500 Fbb, ood and Ung, 120 tons, at L. Id - - - 1560 q 40 do. at L. 3 for manufacturing, - 126 134 ROSS AND CROMARTY. PMturo, at I6i. per oow per annunit 8000 bead* L. 6000 \ j^ ^^ Iq q do. at dii. per ewe or sheep, do. 9000 do. L. 455, lOs. ) Wheat, tK) quarters, at L.1, lOs, - - - - 80 Total yearly value of raw produce, - - - L. 13,721 10 Manufactures^ — Mrs S. M^Kenzie attempted to instruct the natives in straw-plaiting ; and for that purpose brought two stran- gers to the island, and gave them a salary, for a considerable time. Several young girls were taught ; but the work is discontinued at present. The Craggans, formerly mentioned, are made by the nativos. The red clay is kneaded as smooth as glazier's putly, the vessel is fiishioned by one hand inside, the other on the out- side, till it is brought to the size and shape required. After hard- ening in tlie sun for a time, a peat fire is kindled around it, till it Ih>couios rod. Warm milk is then poured into it, and as the milk boils the outside is bathed with it This gives it a polish or gloss. If it dm^s not crack, it is considered a good dish ; and the boiled milk is drunk by the potters. Kelp is the principal manufacture in the parish. It is almost itniKissible to tell how many are employed in the work, — for youiig and old, male and female, all who are able to carry a creel of ware, or help to fill it, are engaged in manufacturing it at different times, for three months, from the time of cutting the ware till the solid mass is weighed on board the vessel. The price of kelp Varies from L. 1, 10s. to L. 3, ds. per ton ; at L. 3. 3s. per ton, the sum may be as much as the man and wife in one family could earn in three months, by any other work ; but the toil in cutting, drying, burning the ware, and watching the pot night and day, till the ware is convert- ed to boiling lava, is terrible, and would require extraordinary wages. This process^ if not injurious to health, is ruinous to the eyes. How this manufacture affects their morals, farther experience will dis- close. I add the following remarks upon the kelping system. It is tnie, tliat proprietors of land and kelp shores got a good round sum for kelp, when the price was high, — nearly L. 20 clear profit per ton ; but they know from experience, that this commodity is very fluctuating in price, especially since barilla has been substi- tuted for kelp. The price of kelp is not now worth the trouble of manufacturing it ; but had the ware burned and exported been given to fields in culture, or put upon new tilled land, to stimulate and feed it, the profits though not so large, would be annual, yea perennial, and in the course of a nineteen years lease, the old LEWIS STORNOWAV. ~ 135 arable land would retain its stamina, and the new land would be pulverizing ; the rents would then be certain and easily secured. Besides, at the end of the lease, the lots or farms would be worth at least double the former rent But when thousands are engaged, all the summer season, making kelp, their crofts and lots are ne- glected, potato fields are overrun with weeds, consequently the return is small, and part of the gain by kelping is lost in their potato crop ; their cattle are much neglected ; corn fields are de- stroyed ; and the tenants distressed for their rents. Many of the herd boys that should attend the cattle during the summer heats, are kelping ; many beasts are lost in mossy veins, and fall from rocks, when they run wild during an excessively hot day, — so that in this way» the gain by kelp becomes a loss. The kelping system is thus a great obstacle to agricultural improvement U is the opinion of many, that the manu&cture of kelp has injured the fishing trade on the Lewis coast, because the smoke is injurious to the fish ; because the ware from which the kelp is manufactured, is supposed to be a great part of the food of the fish ; and because the kelp ware is supposed to be a shelter or covert to the finny fry from their numerous voracious enemies. Whatever be the cause, it is very evident that herrings and dog- fish do not visit th^ shores of Lewis, in such large bodies, as before the kelping system began ; for, by dog-fish oil alone, the tenants in Ness, parish of Barvas, paid their rents; and the take of herrings is trifling compared to what had been formerly. In the fifty miles of coast in this parish, 3000 barrels have not been caught and sent to market, for the last five years. Though the manufacture of kelp should entirely cease, years may elapse before the fish vi- sit the friths and lochs, in such immense bodies as formerly. Navigation. — The number of vessels belonging to the port is 67, the whole tonnage 3059. The smallest is 15 tons, the largest 142 tons. The number of boats, in the district of the port, regis- tered, amounts to 1500. A very considerable number of foreign vessels, and British ves- sels from and to foreign parts, put into the harbour of Stornoway : but the number of foreign vessels importing cargoes, does not, on an average, exceed one each year. In Stornoway, there is a well-regulated custom-house ; a col- lector, comptroller, and tide-waiter. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Toams. — .Stornowav is the only market-town in the pa- 136 ROSS AND CROMARTY. rish ; the other towns or hamlets consist of tenants^ houses buittat the head of their lots. Stomoway Proper is a burgh of barony, and contains a population of 1000 souls. Bay-head, Guirshadir, and Laxdale adjoining, con- tain nearly 900 ; on the north side of the town, Inailite, Sandwich, and Holm, quite contiguous, contain as many ; Stenish, Culna- grein, and Cross Street contain a population of 130, which makes a total of almost 3000 in the immediate vicinity of the town, at no greater distance from the burgh than one mile. Stomoway is the chief town in the Northern Hebrides. It has gradually increased from a paltry hamlet of a dozen houses, to the size and importance of a considerable town, containing several streets within the barony, namely. South Beach, North Beach, Point Street, Kenneth Street, Cromwell Street, Church Street, Kieth Street, and Francis Street, Bay-head, &c Sheriff and Commissary Courts, Bailie, Excise, and Justice of Peace Courts are here held regularly. Means of Communication. — The nearest market-town is Ding- wall, which is 120 miles from Stomoway. The means of commu- nication are by vessels, and the weekly packet between Poolewe and Stomoway. There is one post-office. The average income of the post-office is L. 330. Government pays L. 150 per annum* The yearly proceeds would afford a better packet than the one employed. There are no turnpike roads. In the last Statistical Account, I find that road-making commenced in 1791 ; and in 1796 four miles of the Barvas road were made. Though at that period the mak- ing of a road betwixt Stomoway and Uig, was supposed " to re- quire the labour of many ages," there is now a tolerable road made firom sea to sea, the distance of twenty miles : and since that time, there are nearly 200 miles of road made by statute labour. Moss is found to be an excellent elastic foundation for a road, when covered with gravel and red clay till. They are in a shocking state of repair. A layer of nine inches of such road metal as is to be found here, is absolutely necessary to make them comfortable. There is not a stone bridge across a river in the island to my knowledge, though the waters are often dangerous, and lives are lost by the impetuous torrents. The principal harbour is Loch Stornoway, where there is safe anchorage for an indefinite number of vessels. There are several good quays along the North Beach. LEWIS — STORNOWAY. 137 Ship-carpenters are daily employed ; and each shipowner has his dock. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situate on Kirkhill, in the to¥m of Stornoway, It is only convenient for the population in and near the town. From the farm of Tolsta, which contains 250 souls, the church is twelve miles distant ; and six miles of a pathless moor are very rugged. Tong, where the manse is built, is by the new road four miles from church, and between the manse and Tol- sta, there is a population of 1200 without a seat in church, and destitute of any place of worship, viz. Drum-bheag and Aird of Tong, containing 200 souls, Garra-Ghuism,50, Upper and Nether Coll, 222, Vateikis and Back, 399, Gress, 122, and Tolsta 250, -^in all 1253 souls. The present church was built in 1794. It is mentioned in the last Statistical Account, thus: ^^ A very elegant church was lately built at Stornoway. The internal economy is very nearly finished." Three years ago, the people of the parish became alarmed about the insufficiency of the front wall, and the weight of the root — when partial repair was given to it ; but this did not remove the alarm, the front wall was still off the plumb- line several inches ; the wall receded from the seats in the gal- lery, and no consideration would make the people enter to attend divine service. After the present incumbent's petition was laid before the pres- bytery, the feuars in Stornoway, conjointly with the ministers, laid the proceedings of presbytery before Messrs Mackenzie and Cock- bum, trustees for the Seaforth property. They agreed that all should be assessed, according to their several interests. The repairs there- upon commenced, and are now on the eve of being finished. When these are completed, the church will not be surpassed by any in the Western or Northern Hebrides. The feuars generously and unanimously voted to the present incumbent, a session-house or vestry adjoining the back wall of the church, — wherein he can rest, during the interval between the Gae- lic and English services. The original sum expended in building the church was L. 900; the present repair amounts to nearly L. 600, ��� to which the feu- ars contribute nearly one-half. The benefactions on record are four: Colonel Mackenzie, formerly mentioned, gave L. 100 Ster- Ung, Miss Mary Mackenzie Cam, his sister, L. 140, Mrs A. Nicolson, L. 100, and Mrs Macauley, South Carolina, L. 50 Sterling. 138 ROSS AND CROMARTY. There is only accommodation or legal seat-room for 800 persons, though two-thirds of the examinable people between Tolsta and Stornoway amount to 2000. In Stomoway and its immediate vi- cinity, there are 2000 examinable persons that could attend, if they had room in church. From the manse at Tong to Tolsta, as above-mentioned, there is a population of 1200 ; two-thirds of the examinable persons amount to 500 entitled to legal accommoda- tion in church, — but there is none for them. The minister used to preach, once a month at Back, a farm belonging to the district of Gross ; but the preaching-house there was thrown down, rebuilt, and converted into a school-house, not capable of containing more than 200 persons crammed together. There can be no free sit- tings in a church, from which more than 2000 persons are exclud- ed for want of room. The present manse was built twenty-five years ago, during Mr M^Kenzie's incumbency; the office-houses, during the late Mr Simson Eraser's. The roof of the manse is in an insufficient state ; and during a storm, walls and windows admit rain. The glebe is eight acres arable in extent, with a little rugged wet, deep, mossy moor. In the Statistical Account before me the glebe is valued at L. 5. The present glebe is an excambed one. The former glebe and manse were in Stornoway. That glebe is now feued and farmed ; — bringing Mr S. M'Kenzie annually an amount equal to the minister's stipend. The present glebe at Tong was designed on the 5th day of October 1759. By that designa- tion and excambion, the grass glebe alone should ^^ support six cows coupled, and their followers till four years old, with four horses," making at least thirty head of cattle and horses ; but the glebe enjoyed by the present incumbent cannot support the one-half of that number. The amount of stipend paid by the proprietor is L. 99. The other sum is paid by the Barons of Exchequer, which brings the stipend to L. 150 Sterling annually. There are no chapels of case here. There is one Government church, built in the district of Ui, four miles from the parish church, at the extremity of the district, in the most inconvenient situation, for 800 out of a population of 1308. There are no missionaries, but one is very much required for the district of Gross. There is one catechist, employed by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowlege. There are no dissenters of any denomination. Many have at- LEWIS — S^TORNOWAY. 139 tempted to establish meetiDg-houses, but were not successfiil. The people, though fickle, have an attachment to the Established Kirk. There is a local missionary society formed here, not ** subject to local authority." The number of communicants at the last sacra- ment did not exceed 40. The annual amount of church coUectioos for religious and cha- ritable purposes averages L. dO Sterling. Education. — The total number of schools is 13 : one parochial school ; one from the S. P. Christian Knowledge ; two firom the Gaelic School Society ; one female school endowed by Mrs M^Ken- zie, and Miss Mary Cam, formerly mentioned. In this school, 60 scholars are taught reading, writing, and sewbg, Mrs S. M^Ken- zie having sent the female teacher to Edinburgh, to learn the system taught in the School of Industry there ; salary about L. 20, with free lodgings in the seminary. There are two schools supported by the country people, in Knock and Melbost ; three supported by Mrs S. M^Kenzie and the people conjunctly ; three are unendowed, or chance schools. There was one upheld by individual subscription, in which the fashionable branches were taught to a limited number of scholars ; salary L. 60, including fees. It was discontinued lately. In the grammar and parochial school, all the branches consti- tuting a classical education are taught. The parochial teacher's Salary is only L. 32. The amount of school fees does not exceed L. 20, and is seldom so much, as many are taught gratis, and the fees are ill paid. The parochial teacher has not the legal accom- modation. The annual expense for English reading, is from 10s. 6d. to 14s ; for Latin and the higher branches L. 1, 4s., for each scholar. The number between six and fifteen years of age, who cannot read, is 586. The number upwards of fifteen who cannot read is 1265. Literature. — There is one circulating library, established by Sea- forth and his lady. Friendly Societies. — There are two Friendly Societies and a Masons' Lodge. The lodge existed since 1767, and in four years distributed L. 300. The Trades Society was formed in 1769 ; the Friendly Society, since 1 801. Both give nearly 5s. per week to each sick member! The Hon. Mrs S. M*Kenzie is very charitable to the poor, — giving medicine, food, and clothing to the necessitous. Bank. — There is a branch of the National bank in Stomoway. 140 BOSS AND CROMARTY. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor receiving pa« rochial aid is 219. The average sum given to each, is 5s. The average amount of collections is L. 30. The interest arising from legacies varies, together with the mulcts levied from delinquents; and out of the combined amount, precentors, beadle, session-clerk, and part of the catechist's salaries are paid. The whole amount distributed in 1830 was L. 52 Sterling. Prisons. — There is not one prison for a population of 14,000 in the island of Lewis. Fairs. — Near Stomoway, there is a square mile of moor inclos- ed for an annual tryst or cattle-market, where several thousand head of cattle are exposed for sale, and two thousand at least change owners, in two days. The prices and demand depend on the southern markets. From 20 to 30 drovers or cattle-dealers come from the mainland, and some from England. The market or tryst always holds on the second Wednesday of July annually, by advertisement ; and the packet waits to bring purchasers across the Minch. Inns. — In Stornoway there are 18 houses regularly licensed for the vending of spirituous liquors. This number comprises four respectable inns, namely, the Royal Oak, Crown, Star and New Inn ; seven are shops, and the remaining seven miscellaneous; but which perhaps would be better distinguished under the appellation of petty public-houses, the pest of the morals of the people. The quantity of spirits imported last quarter, is 802 gallons, and the quantity brought in from the distillery in the neighbouring parish IS 328 gallons. The stocks on hand are invariably very inconside- rable. These two quantities added together, and quadrupled, may be fairly estimated as the consumption for the year 1831, which, calculatedat the present rate of duty, yields to his Majesty's Trea- sury the sum of L. 753, 6s. 8d. The quantity exported per annum is about 300 gallons. Annual consumption 4520 imperial gal- lons. Fuel. — The fuel consists of English and Scotch coal, and most excellent black peats. Coals are sold at L. 1, Is. per ton ; peats, to those who have no carts to lead them home, are almost as dear as coaL The peat-cutting season is one of joy and hilarity. Eggs, butter, cheese, and whisky are brought to the peat bank. 183a ISLAND OF LEWIS. PARISH OF BARVAS. PRESBYTERY OF LEWIS, SYNOD OF GLENELG. THE REV, WILLIAM MACRAE, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History, The parish of Barvas is situated in the northern extremity of the Island of Lewis, extending from south-west to north-east, along the shore of the Atlantic, about 22 miles in length, — and from the shore southward towards the interior of the island, about 7 miles in breadth. It originally embraced a district called Ness, at the eastern extremity, where there is a Government church, and which has been erected into a separate parish called Cross. Bar- vas, as now constituted, after the disjunction, is only 12 miles long, and 7 miles broad, making in all 84 square miles.* Name. — Its name is thought to be Nonw^gian, in common with that of many other places in the Hebrides ; but its signification is not known. Boundaries^ Sfc. — It is bounded on the west, by the parish^of Lochs ; on the south, by the parishes of Stomoway and Lochs ; on the eas^ by the parish of Cross ; and on the north, by the Atlantic ocean. Its figure is an irregular parallelogram, having the side to the north in nearly a straight line along the sea coast, indented by a few confined bays. Topographical Appearances, — There are no hills or mountains that can be so called, the whole parish being almost one continu- ed flat of mossy muir, with the exception of the cultivated inha- bited part along the shore, which, upon an average, is not one mile in breadth. The vallies or glens, where the streams flow, are consequently of very inconsiderable depth. The coast being bold and rocky, there are some caves or fissures ; but none worthy of notice. The extent of the coast may be about 14 miles, all ex- tremely rugged and inaccessible, except four small bays or creeks, where small boats can sometimes land ; but no vessel can venture to anchor, on account of the'surf, which is generally high, and with * The district of Crofls, now formed into a separate parish quoad tocro^ iw w^ Ihl at the present account of Barvas does not apply to it, wUV \)e uo\\cQd\i«t«tS\AT. 142 ROSS AND CROMARTY'. a north, north-west, and north-east wind rises most tremendously. The bays of Bragar and Barvas, having each a headland of short projection attached, are low and partly sandy ; but the bay of Sha- dir, though low, is very difficult of access. Meteorology. — There being no hilly ranges higher than gentle eminences, the country is the more exposed to the destructive vio-s lence of sea winds, which frequently carry, in their sweeping blasts, disappointment to the husbandman. The sea coast, the only arable portion of the parish, lies completely open to the north, west, and south winds ; and when they come, in harvest, impregnated with the noxious vapours of the Atlantic, and often accompanied by heavy falls of rain, the crops, particularly the potato, suffer much injury. The air is temperately cold, moist, and salubrious, to natives; but the atmosphere is always densely charged witli humid exhalations from the surrounding ocean, and from the mossy bogs, lochs, lakes, and water in every shape, ¥rith which the marshes are plentiftilly interspersed. From this cause, frost is seU dom intense, and snow generally of short continuance. Dense fogs rarely occur. The luminous meteors, rainbow, halo, and Aurora Borealis or polar lights, are very frequent and brilliant. The glare of the latter sometimes may afford light for reading, and their warlike motions are oflen interesting. As they advance, at their first appearance, slowly and majestically, the fertile imagina* tion may fancy the cool and stately motion of two mighty hosts approaching to the onset, then the hurry and confusion of the thickening fight, then the rout, the fugitive and pursuer emerging in 'One another, — until a third party shoots forth tus from ambuscade, ending the battle, and resigning the firmament to the stars and ancient night The prevailing winds are the south and south-west,, and are al* ways foUowed by rain, if of more than two days duration. The common complaints are, colds, asthmas, and rheumatisiiis, incident to this, in common with all rainy climates ; but a more uncommon ailment, for which no remedy has yet been discovered, is the five or seven nights sickness, — a disease very fatal to infants, and so called from its attacking them on the fifth or seventh night Hydrography. — Perennial springs of excellent water are very numerous here, issuing for the most part from sand or gravel, se^ veral of them of a chalybeate nature. The moors abound in small shallow fresh water lakes and lochs, without surrounding scenery or beauty. The rivers take their origin from lochs and springs, generally at the distance of six or seven miles from the Atlantic, LEWIS BARVAS. 143 into which they fall. They are five in number, the Amal, Glen, Torra, Shadir, and Borve, all which flow with uninterrupted smoothness, without cascade or cataract, to the ocean. Geology. — Along the whole arable ground, the most striking feature in the surface, as well as the composition of the soil, is the multitude of stones with which it is overrun, rendermg it equally injurious to vegetation as unfavourable for culture. The soil is of various kinds ; but as the cultivated portion is no more than a nar- row fringe, which outskirts the moor, the greatest proportion is mossy, varying from 2 to 12 feet deep, and resting on a hard stra- tum of clay. The inhabited portion consists either of black earth, gravel, orsand;ofthe latter, there are banks between the manse and the shore, near 20 feet high, which are making gradual encroachments into the interior, from the constant action of the westerly winds, to which they lie exposed. The bank retains its depth as it advances, while it leaves behind a level expanse of sand, probably of greater depth than itself, and having its surface overspread with a vast vari- ety of whelks, limpets, and the remains of shell-fish similar to those commonly found at present on the sea shore. Zooloffy. — The more numerous species of animals in this pa- rish, are the most common throughout Scotland, and to all appear- ance have undergone no change through the lapse of ages in in- crease or diminution. In the moors, are considerable flocks of red mountain deer {Cervus elaphtis :^ otters {Lutra mustela^) in the rivers: and hares (L, timidusj) and rats (M. decumanus,) in the meadows. Birds. — The land fowl are hawks (Fakoy) ravens (C. corax) and carrion crows (C corane^) with the numerous smaller birds which abound in the western islands, such as the lark (Jlauda arvensis^) land-rail (RaUiis crexj) lapwing (Tringa vanellusy) plover (Chu" radriwty) pigeon (Columba JEnas^) moorfowl {Tetrao Scoticus^) snipe (Scolopax gallinago^) curlew (S. arquata^) thrush (7\«r- dus musicusy) starling {Stumus vtdg.) ; robin-red- breast {MotaciU la rvbeeala,) wren (M. Troglodytes,) wagtail (M. alba.) ; sparrow {Fringilla domestical) swallow {Hinmdo,) sand martin (H. ripa- ria.) The waterfowl are the swan {Anas cygntts,) gray goose (A. anser,) teal (^A. crecca,) duck {A. boschasj) raingoose, cormo- rant (Pelecanus carbo,) soland-goose {P. Bassanus,) gull {Larus canusy and marinus^ crane {Ardea grus.) The domestic animals reared are, horses, black-cattle, and sheep, all of a very diminutive breed. The horses are well-shaped, hardy 144 ROSS AND CROMARTY. and metdesome, well adapted for carrying burdens of peat and ware through broken rugged ground, in creels suspended by the crook- saddle. The beef and mutton are of a superior quality. The rivers contain well-flavoured trout in considerable numbers*. Good salmon are caught, annually, on the Barvas river. They come up in June when access is open to them ; spawn towards the latter end of September, and return to the sea in the beginning of winter. Ling, cod, and dog-fish are sometimes fished. These, together with herring and every other variety of fish caught on the south side of the island, frequent this coast in great numbers; but the inhabitants are unable to benefit by them, without peril- ling their lives in the tempestuous ocean which surrounds them. With the exception of a very few days in summer and harvest, terrific surges, crested with foam, may be seen rolling to the shore, with unremitting violence. The horse-fly and the common house-fly abound in their season ; but the insect best known, from the torture it often inflicts, is a species of gnat commonly called the " midge," which, without some safeguard covering on the face, will interrupt any out-door occupa- tion. In such seasons of scarcity as the present, a great part of the sustenance of many of the natives for some weeks is the com- mon whelk, limpet, and crab, — the only shell-fish to be found on the coast. Botany. — The botanist has here but little scope for his pursuits. Not a vestige of wood, or tree, and scarcely of a shrub except the wild heath, is visible on the surface of the earth. This gives the country a barren stunted appearance. Yet the deficiency cannot be altogether imputed to the poverty of the soil ; for roots and trunks of fir, oak and hazel, with hazel-nuts, are frequently found imbedded in a great depth of moss, — confirming the current opinion, that these northern countries, at some remote period, have under- gone some sweeping and desolating revolution. Gardens, when properly cultivated, produce good culinary vegetables, and are ca-» pable of bringing fruit-bushes to maturity. II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers, — The only parochial register extant in this parish, dates its earliest entry from the year 1810; — since which time, baptisms, marriages, and distribution of poor funds have been regularly registered. Antiquities, — Almost every populous village in the parish had formerly a small Popish Chapel attached to it, and adjoining L»WIS. — BARVAS. 145 dieretOy burying-grounds^ which still serve their original purpose. They are all now crumbling into ruins, and one of them has aK ready disappeared in the sand. The names applied to them were, St Bridget in Borve, St Peter's in Lower Shadir, St Mary's in Barvas, and St John's in Bragar; but these appellations are now obsolete. Southward of Bragar, on the border of a loch, are the ruins of a circular tower (dun) or Danish fort, well adapted for defence, built solely of large stones, three stories high, tapering towards the summit, with a double wall, bound by large flags, — which at the same time form a winding staircase in the interior of the wall, by which one may go round the building. Three more similar ruins are to be seen between Shadir and Borve, two of them situated on small islands, in the centre of lochs, and cause-< ways leading to each, or rather stepping-stones, so artfully ar- ranged, that an enemy who ventured to attack them or advance to their fortress, must, from the zigzag direction, and the deep pits made purposdy to intervene, have proceeded with the greatest cau- tion, or been precipitated into one of those gulfs, — and, should a band have been observed attempting to cross over,'hardly any so exposed, during the delay thus occasioned, would escape the deadly arrows of the besieged. The third ruin stands at some little distance firom the shore, with which it was supposed to have a subterra* neous communication, — an opinion resting on no other authority than tradition* In a plain of moss between Barvas and Shadir, there is an immense stone 18 feet high, and nearly the same in cir- cumference, standing almost perpendicular, and no other stone nearer than the shore, which is half a-mile distant Unless it was placed there by some mechanical power, there can be no bet- ter proof that there were " giants in those days." In either case, it was an effort infinitely surpassing the present stage of mechanical skill in this island. Some suppose it was erected in memory of a na- tive chief who fell there. The tradition of a bloody battle between the native tribes having been fought in its immediate vicinity might seem to countenance this opinion. In those lawless times, when ^^ might was right," it is said that the inhabitants of the south end of the island, taking advantage of the absence of the chief warriors among their enemies, had made a ravaging incursion into their ter- ritories, and by night carried off considerable numbers of their cattle ; but the absent champions returning the same night, hasti- ly collected their forces, pursued the plunderers, and overtook them with their booty in the above-mentioned plain, where they ROSS AND CROMARTY. K 146 ROSS AND CROMARTY. were all slaughtered without mercy, by the superior numbers of thefir foes ; — and, accordingly, there is a small eminence at a little dis- tance called ^^ Druim nan Caiman," or the hill of tumuli, where the remains of the slain are supposed to be interred. But as there is no other specimen of such monuments in the island, it is more probable that the stone was erected (as the foreign sounding name << Clach an Trushial" may import,) to commemorate the fidl of one of those famous invaders, who were wont to commit depreda- tions on this island ; perhaps some mighty Dane, or one of those " sons of Lochlin," of whom the " Bard of other times" delight- ed to sing, particularly when laid low by the hand of his &ther, the mighty FingaL III. — Population. Of the parish of Barvas, as at present constituted, the popula- tion cannot be correctly ascertained previous to the year 1821. Every census formerly taken included the district of Cross, now detached. The earliest on record thus taken of Barvas and Cross together was Dr Webster's in 1755, when the population was 1995; by the former Statistical Account, the number of souls then was 2006. In 1821, it was 2568; and in 1831 it amounted to 801 1. The population of Barvas alone, since the disjunction, will in twenty years more, at its present rate of increase, equal that of both parishes, as stated by Dr Webster, or, in other words, in one century will be nearly doubled. This rapid increase arises from a general inclination to marry young — from the want of any outlet for the superabundant population by emigration or otherwise, — ^and from the numerous subdivisions of lots consequent on this accumu- lation. Population in 1821 of Barvas as at present constituted, - 1481 1831, being 811 males and 886 females, . - ICd? I886» - - -1840 Average number of persons under 15 years of age, 618 betwixt 15 and 30 462 do and 60 . 347 50 and 70 - 283 above 70 - 180 1840 Yearly average of births for the last seven years, - 35 of deaths, - , . 9 ' of marriages, - - IS . Number of unmarried men, or bachelors above 50, . 1 widowers alwvc 50, - -IS unmarried women upwards of 45, . 15 families in the parish, . . 37] Average number of children in each family, . . 4 ' Fatuous persons, - . . , 5 Blind, - - . .4 LEWIS — BARVAS. 147 The inhabitants are all agricultural, and of the few that are ar- tisans none devote their time exclusively to their trades. Character^ Ijxnguage^ and Habits of the People. — The inhabitants are about the middle size, of a sallow complexion, probably occa- sioned by tlie peat smoke in which they are constantly enveloped. The men are well-proportioned, hardy, robust, and healthy, and the women are modest, comely, and many of them good-looking. The Gaelic is the only language, and has been from time imme- morial; and it is spoken, in the opinion of competent judges, with grammatical correctness and classical purity. In their habits, much cleanliness can scarcely be expected, considering their poverty and the wretchedness of their habitations, especially while the present system, which has prevailed for ages, continues, of having the cattle under the same roof with themselves, entering at the same door, and allowing their manure to accumulate without being removed except once a year. Their mode of living most closely approaches the pastoral : — >without arts, trade, or manufacture, na- vigation or literature, their whole round of duty consists in secur- ing fuel, in sowing and reaping their scanty crops, and in rearing their flocks, and tending them at pasture. Yet in these limited circumstances, while supplied with food and clothing of the plain- est description, and able to pay their rents, their simple cottages are abodes of happiness and contentment Blue kelt is almost the only dress worn by the men, and stuffs, variously striped, by the women, with under dresses of plaiding, all home made. In many instances, however, cotton shirts and print gowns are beginning to supersede the use of some of these articles. The formation of the female habits, with their whole appearance, closely resembles that of the " Wandering Bavarians," or Swiss " buy a broom" singers, who itinerate through this country. Their ordinary food consists of oat and barley meal, potatoes and milk, variously prepared. Their domestic economy is frugal and moderate beyond conception. The produce of a foreign soil, as tea, coffee, and sugar, and the common conveniences of art, as knives, forks, &c. are to them altogether alien. They are remarkable for sobriety and hospitality in their own sphere ; possess vivacity of intellect, acuteness and sagacity, and are taints with few vices except such as poverty in similar cir- cumstances begets. They are, in general, tolerably well-versed ID the Scriptures, and afford several examples of uprightness and piety. 148 ROSS AND CROMARTY. IV. — Industrv. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The uncultivated portion of the parish, and the extensive moors to the southward^ which have not been accurately measured, and cannot well be estimated, ex- ceed the arable land in extent, beyond all proportion. By giving proper encouragement, much waste land might, with a profitable application of capital, and with little difficulty, be reclaimed. At present, there are 1468 acres of land cultivated, or occasionally in tillage ^ 12,146 in pasture ; and 489 in fine pasture. The rental of the whole is L. 1070, being on an average nearly 15s. an acre arable, including the value of the pasture attached to it. Each tenant is entitled to a souming proportional to his rent, at the rate of a cow with her follower till a year old, 8 sheep, and half a horse for every pound rent Mate of Wages. — All the artisans in the parish consist of 6 blacksmiths, and two self-taught carpenters, the former paid by the quantity of work, and the latter at the rate of Is. a-day and their victuals, and sometimes paid by contract. When farm-la- bourers are hired, which is not often the case, they receive Is. per day in summer, and 8d. in winter, without victuals. Breeds of Live Stock and Husbandry, — There is not the slight- est attention paid by the people, to the improvement of their breed of cattle. They are satisfied if they multiply in proportion to the annual sale. Upwards of 2500 are reared in the parish, and fed in winter principally on ware or sea-weed. The sheep amount to triple that number, and are of a more improved breed than formerly. In husbandry^ there is hardly any improvement or deviation from the system which has been followed for centuries. Hitherto, they have not attempted draining or trenching, or to imitate in any re« spect a better mode of tillage,— owing to their indigence^, and to the short duration of their leases, which vary from six to twelve years. The minister's plough is the only one in the parish, except we admit as such three or four machines so called, having but one handle, which the ploughman manages with both hands, stand* ing sideways. A little refinement of taste, more than a sense of its disadvantages, has in some instances abolished the use of the crooked spade, a very indelicate tool for females ; for which the common spade is now substituted. As there is no produce export* ed from this parish, its amount cannot easily be valued, but may be conjectured from the fact, that in no season is it more than bar&« 1 LEWIS— BARVAS. 149 ly 8 ufficient, and sometimes not adequate, to supply the necessi* ties of the tenantry. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no towns in this parish, nor any market in the coun- try, by which the people may be benefited, but that annually held at Stornoway in July. In severe seasons, the cattle are not, then, in a condition to be disposed of to advantage ; and a loss is thus created, which could be remedied, did the markets occur more fre« quently. The parish has the benefit of two roads, — one along the coast, and another now niuch out of repair, to Stornoway, the only trading town in the island. The communication thither is some- times interrupted from want of bridges, when the rivers are im- passable during floods. Ecctesicuftical State. — The church occupies a central situation in the village, from which the parish derives its name, and is dis- tant from the inhabited parts of the parish, five miles from one extremity, and seven miles from the other. It was built about forty years ago, and has been lately well repaired. It is a long narrow building without gallery, and affords accomodation for 300 persons, all of whom have their sittings free. The manse was built about sixty years ago, and has been also frequently repaired* The minister possesses a legal grass glebe, designed in 1815, which may, as an accommodation in so remote a situation, be worth L. 20 per annum. The stipend is L. 158, 6s. 8d. Sterling, includ- ing L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements, of which L. 1 19, 1 6s. is paid by the heritor as parochial teind, and the balance, L. 38» IOs» 8d. is paid from the King's Exchequer. There are no dissenters in the parish, nor any other chapels or churches. About 180 fami- lies, and from 400 to 500 individuals, are in the habit of attending public worship, when the weather permits. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The church collections, includ- ing fines for petty delicts, do not exceed L. 3 annually, which are distributed among 30 paupers. Exclusive of this little* aid, the maintenance of the poor depends upon the liberality of the te- nantry, who are ready to supply them out of their own scanty means. To this may be added the generous aid Airnished by the proprie- tor's lady, the Honourable Mrs Stewart Mackenzie, who is always benevolent in ministering to their necessities as often as made known, by supplying them with food and clothing. The late Mr Angus Nicolson, merchant in Stornoway, has bequeathed L. 100, of which the interest is to be given to the poorest of those 150 ROSS AND CROMARTY. next'of kin to himself ia the parish^ and the princ^>al to remun untouched. Education. — The schools in the parish are 3 in number ; one parochial, and two supported by the Edinburgh Gaelic School Society, — one in Shadir, and the other in ArnaL The parkb schoolmaster is qualified to teach Latin, Greek, arithmetic^ and the elements of English reading, and receives L. 28 of salary. School fees scarcely exceed L. 1. The Gaelic teachers are re- stricted exclusively to the Gaelic language or the Gaelic Scrip- tures. Their salary is L. 25. It is much to be lamented, how little literary knowledge is ap^ preciated by the people in general. The parochial school is thu9 rendered of less efficiency than it might be,— the abilities of an ex- cellent teacher being as little valued as the branches in which he is fitted to give instruction* This apathy may arise from their in** ability to pay fees, and perhaps in some measure from being ap- prehensive that their children may become stimulated by thd knowledge they acquire, to leave their native country, — a disposi* tion highly disa[^roved of. In a country almost devoid of the slightest prospect of advancement, it certainly is, and might na- turally be expected to be, the tendency engendered in an educat- ed and cultivated mind, to go abroad where some field might be found for exertion. This deep-rooted prejudice, formerly a strong barrier to literary attainments, is fast losing ground. Itinerating schools have been occasionally stationed in various parts of the parish, under the patronage of the Gaelic School Society, Edin^ burgh, and the Inverness Education Society ; and so great is the benefit derived from these valuable institutions, that Uie greatest number of the population have been taught to read the Gaelic Scriptures. Fueii 4*c. — There are no charitable institutions, prisons, inns or alehouses in the parish : and the fiiel, which consists of peats, ia jierfectly accessible to all the inhabitants, and very abundant September 1836. ISLAND OF LEWIS. PARISH OF UIG. PRESBYTERY OF LEWIS, SYNOD OF GLENSL6. THE REV. ALEXANDER MACLEOD, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Home. — The word Uig is applied to many situations in the High- lands, and signifies a iolitary place. It is therefore peculiarly ap- plicable to this parish, which is situated on the west coast of the Island of Lewis. It is bounded by the Harris mountains on the south ; by the Atlantic Ocean on the west ; and on the north by a district of the parish of Lochs, which runs across the island from east to west. Extent^ ^. — The length of the parish is 24 miles, including the wide entry of Loch Roag, which runs the distance of 12 miles, from west to east. The breadth of the parish is 10 miles, and the circumference along the coast 40 miles. Topographical Appearances. — The interior is more mountainous than any other part of the Lewis. The hills are intersected by extensive tracts of soft moor and fresh water lakes. The lands, for the most part, along the sea shore are low and the soil sandy. In the interior, the soil is partly clay, but principally mossy, and is everywhere capable of producing forced crops, with the assistance of sea weed for manure. The bay of Uig is the only notable bay in the parish : it is one English mile in breadth. Gallan-head is the most prominent point on the coast It is situated about two miles north from the mouth of the bay of Uig, which is much exposed to the sounding Atlantic There are twelve small islands within the bounds of the parish, exclusive of the Flannel Isles, which are seven in number. Of the ibrmer, four are inhabited ; the other islands are peculiarly adapt* ed for pasturing sheep and black-cattle. The Flannel Islands are about fifteen miles from the mainland of the parish. They are sup- posed to have been the residence of ecclesiastics in the time of the Druids ; and the ruins of their temples in these lonely islands, and in several other places in this parish, are still extant. 152 ROSS AND CROMARTV. The atmosphere is ordinarily warm and healthy ; but is gene* rally so moist that efven deep falls of snow remain no longer than a few days on the ground. Although the weather is damp and hazy, we have not those torrents of rain and hurricanes of winds, to which so many other parts of the Highlands and islands are sub- ject On this coast, the south, south-west, and westerly winds are the most prevailing, and in winter and spring are generally accompa- nied with rain and storm. Hazy weather in winter prognosticates frost, in spring snow, in summer fair weather, and in autunm rain ; and it is remarked that, in -the stormy months of January and Fo* bruary, the greater number of sea-fowls disappear from this coast, owing to the exposure of the coast in that season to the storms from the Atlantic. The most prevailing distempers in the parish are rheumatism, colics, and epilepsy among very young infants* If these are not affected with the disease within the ninth or tentk Jay after their birth, they are not afterwards so subject to it Hydrography. — The Frith of Loch Roag runs in a south-east direction through the centre of the parish, the length of twelve miles. In the narrow parts of the channels of this long arm of the sea, the tides run very rapidly, and the water is very salt There are a few small perennial springs in the parish, arising Qut of sandy soil ; their water is clear and cooling in all seasons* The parish abounds with fresh water lakes and lochs, the larw gest of which do not exceed two miles in length, and one in breadth* They abound with small trout Their water is of a brownish co« lour. Flat moor and low hillocks form the scenery of almost all the interior part of the Lewis. There are four rivulets in this parish, in which salmon is caught, viz. the rivers Grimtsta and Cean Loch, which join the sea at the head of Loch Roag ; Resart, which joins the sea at the head of Loch Resart ; and the Red River, which discharges itself into tho bay of Uig. J&ofo^y.— Black cattle, sheep and horses, all of the small High-> land breed, have been the kinds reared in this parish, from time im-* memorial ; but of late years, Cheviot and black-faced sheep have been introduced into this parish, with considerable success. Oysters, lobsters, and every kind of shell-fish are abundant al-> most on every part of the shores of Loch Roag ; and English ves^ sels frequently come here, for several months, to fish lobsters* LEWIS — UIG. 153 i II. — Civil History. Land'Owner. — James Alexander Stewart M^Kenzie, Esq. of Seaforth, is the sole land-owner of this parish. The real rent of the parish is L. 2535, 2s. 6d. Parochial Registers* — Parochial registers have been kept in this parish only since the year 1826. There are registers of marriages and births. Antiquities. — On the Flannel Isles called by Buchanan Insulcs SacrcB^ are still extant the ruins of religious houses. At Mealis- ter and Pabay, are the remains of nunneries; and at Callemish, on the east coast of Loch Roag, there are the very entire remains of a Druidical place of worship ; some of the stones in which are so very large, that it is inconceivable by what means they could have been brought to the place. They all stand on end, at the distance of five and six yards from each other, and are in a rough natural state, as taken from the shore. At Carloway, there is a Danish fort or doune, within the bounds of this parish, — with a double wall of dry stone, — the largest and the most entire I have seen anywhere in Scotland. At the base, it is very broad, and towards the top it gradually contracts. The height of the wall is computed to be about thirty feet. . The fiibric upon the whole is perfectly circular, and finished in a masterly style. In the year 1831, a considerable number of small ivory sculptures resembling chessmen, and which appeared to be of great antiqui- ty, were found in the sands at the head of the bay of Uig, and have been since transmitted to the Antiquarian Society at Edin- burgh. Modern Buildings. — In the year 1824, the manse of Uig was repaired, and a commodious new wing added to it. A new church was built in 1829, which will accommodate 1000 people; and in this region, where there is so little of what may be called archi- tecture, I may notice that several curing houses for cod and ling were erected on the coast, in the year 1826 : and in 1832, Mr and Mrs Stewart M^Kenzie of Seaforth erected two commodious school- houses and dwelling-houses for teachers in the districts of Valtos, and Callernbh, for the reUgious and moral improvement of the people. III. — Population. The people of this parish have always been remarked for their hospitality. They are naturally intelligent, and acute and docile in their dispositions ; and have of late years improved much, in 1 5 4 ROSS AND CROMARTY. cleanliness, morals, and religion. The population is on the in- crease, — which may be accounted for by the fact, that the people marry young, are in general much attached to their native island, and not disposed to leave their native country. They live to a great age, and are in general higher in stature, and of a fresher complexion, than the people of the other parishes in this island. The Gaelic language is the mother tongue, and is as generally and purely spoken now, as it was forty years ago. The peop^B have hardly any public games or amusements of any kind. Their improvement, of late years, in religious knowledge, has been veiy perceptible, and has taught them to be contented with their circumstances and situation in life, and to enjoy and value the invaluable privileges of the Gospel dispensation. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Scott Acrts. Arable and intersected pasture, ... 2840 111 Fine pasture, .... . 1788 9 SO Moorish pasture, - - - - 89i^ 37 Water, ..... 3804 2 17 96264 J5 The Common Breeds^ ifc. — The small country breeds of sheep, horses, and cattle, are still the prevailing breeds of the country. Little or nothing is doing for the improvement of lands, — principal- ly, I believe, for want of capital. Still the capabilities of the Lewis for cultivation are very great. Husbandry is done by the common and the crooked spade ; the ground is turned into lazy beds, but might easily be cultivated with the plough, in many parts of the country. Fisheries. — Ever since the failure of the herring fishing in Lodi Roag, the cod and ling fishing is that to which the inhabitants have turned their attention. In this, they engage with commendable in- dustry, and are frequently very successful. They cure the fish in shore-houses, and sell itat4d.percod, and 7d. per ling. About thirty tons of cod and ling are taken annually : and about 100,000 lobsters are annually exported to the London market. They receive no bounty or any other encouragement, except the price. There are about 80 open boats in the parish, and one decked vessel. McmufaetureSm — Kelp is the only manufacture carried on in the parish : 226 tons are annually manufEictured. The people mai* nu&cture their home woollen and clothings LEWIS— >UIG. 155 v.— Parochial Economy. Market^Toum. — Stomoway w the market-town of the Lewis, and is thirty miles from the manse of Uig. It is also the only place of a post'^office in the whole island. Villages. — All the people dwell in little farm villages, in several of which are from 40 to 60 families. Harbours. — Loch Roag is the principal harbour in the parish : it is covered with islands. One of them, Large Bemera, is about eight miles long, and inhabited. The whole of this curious and interesting arm of the sea abounds with safe places of anchorage, suCBcient to hold the whole British Navy. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated in the most convenient and centrical part of the parish ; notwithstanding of which, those inhabiting the north and north-east coasts of Loch Roag, are thirteen miles from church. The church was built in the year 1829, and affords accommodation for 1000 sitters. The manse was repaired with additions (as I have already stated) in 1824. The present incumbent has an arable glebe of no great value, and the amount of stipend is L. 150 Sterling per annum. There is one catechist in the parish, appointed and principally supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The number of communicants is 60. The parishioners, as cir- cumstances permit, and exigencies demand, make collections for re- ligious and charitable purposes ; but the amount of these is small, from the extreme poverty of the inhabitants. There is not a mis- sion or a Government church in the parish ; but there is an exten- sive field for one of these on the north and north-east coasts of Loch Roag. There are no dissenters of any description within the bounds of the parish. The people's appreciation of religious instruction is increasing much ; and the attendance on the public ordinances of religion here is probably as punctual and full, as in any parish in Scotland. Education. — There are at present five schools in the parish, all of which, excepting the parochial school, are supported by Socie- ties. Three of said schools are supported by the Edinburgh Gae- lic School Society, and the fourth by the Inverness Education So- ciety. There are other two English schools soon to be opened at the districts of Valtos and Callemish. The ordinary branches of education are taught in the English schools, and the parochial teacher has the legal accommodations. His salary is L. 28, and his fees amount to about L. 5 a-year. 166 ROSS AND C&OMARTY. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are 60 persons receiving parochial aid in the parish. The yearly church collections are very inadequate, indeed, for meeting the exigencies of so many pau- pers, and there is no other fund for their support ; but several of them go about, seeking parochial relief; and the whole of them are partly supported by their own relatives. Inns, — There is one inn in the parish. Fml. — Peat moss is the fuel made use of here ; of which the peo* pie have abundance, and at very little expense. Miscellaneous Observations. The fiiilure of the herring fishing in Loch Roag for thirty years back, has contributed to impoverish the people of this parish. The cultivation of the interior parts of the Lewis, wherever practicable, the letting of lands at a very low rent, and giving long leases to the occupiers, — would greatly improve the parish, and ameliorate the condition of the population, now settled everywhere on the sea shore. I'he country also requires some branches of roads to the interior, so as to cart lime from any of the harbours. Establishing a hemp or cotton manufactory in any part of the Lewis would do much for training a people who have so much idle time on handy to habits of industry, and for ameliorating their condition. The happiness and comfort of the people would also be pro- moted were men of capital to engage in the fishing trade. It is a well known feet, that, of late, there were abundance of herring on the whole coast here, which remained for seven or eight weeks; but most of the inhabitants had no nets that could fish, so far out from shore. I am confident, that, had there been a num- ber of boats and vessels here upon the herring fishing, their suc- cess and profits would have been considerable, 183a ISLAND OF LEWIS. PARISH OF LOCHS. PRESBYTERY OP LEWIS, SYNOD OF 6LENEL6. THE REV. ROBERT FINLAYSON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name.-^TH^ parish of Lochs derives its name from the nume- rous arms of the sea, by which it is intersected, and the many fresh water lakes that intersperse its surface.* It was the most recently inhabited parish in the Island of Lewis, according to the rapidly expiring traditions of the country ; the only source of information on this head to which we can resort* Different parts of it were used by the inhabitants of the parish of Uig, in times long gone by, as shealings, or summer pasturage for their ^cattle. There is a certain part of it that still retains the name of " Ari Dhhoil Chaim" or Donald Caum's shealing. This Do- nald Caum was a noted character, who resided in the parish of Uig, in this island, seven generations ago. Extent — The extreme length of the parish of Lochs, in a straight line, is 18 computed miles ; not including the arms of the sea by which it is intersected. The breadth averages about nine miles. Its length is from north to south ; and its breadth of course from east to west. Boundaries. — The parish of Lochs is bounded on the south by an arm of the sea called Loch Seaforth, which separates it from Harris ; on the south-west and west, by the hills of Harris and the parish of Uig, in a line which runs along the interior of the island, a distance of ten miles, over a very moorish tract of ground ; on the north, by the parish of Stomoway and the river Creed, which fiills into loch Stomoway ; and on the east, by the channel which separates the island of Lewb from the mainland of Ross-shire. Figure, — The parish of Lochs being intersected by many arms of the sea, is of a very irregular figure. A great part of it is a peiunsula called Park or the Forest of Lewis. This peninsula * Arras of the sea and fresh water lakes are indiscrimiDately termed Lochs in the Hebrides. 158 ROSS AND CROMARTY. is called the Forest or Park, from its having been devoted by the first Earl of Seaforth to the exclusive maintenance of red-deer. Park farms the southern extremity of the parish. The arms of the sea by which it is formed into a peninsula are, Loch Seaforth and Loch Erisort. The isthmus that separates these lochs and joins the forest to the rest of the parish, is three quarters of a mQe in breadth. When the forest of Lewis was devoted to the maintenance of red-deer, as noticed above, there was a very high dike across the isthmus ; but that dike can now be scarcely traced. The forest has been for many years let to tenants. • Moimtains. — The only mountains of any note in the parish of Lochs are in the district called Park. Some of these mountains are celebrated in the hunting-songs of Lewis men of bygone yean; among others ^^ Benn Chrianeg, Ushinish, and Bonn Mhore." These mountains are all in the soutliem division of Park. They are interspersed by valleys that yield good pasture, and are sqpa* rated from the less mountainous part of Loch Shell. The rest of the parish, especially the interior, is almost all flat, yielding nothing but the coarsest of heath. Caves and Fissures. — The only cave in the parish of Lochs is in an island named Tauneray, which is situated in the entrance of Loch Erisort. This cave is about twelve by eight feet wide in its entrance ; its dimensions increase towards its centre, but terminate in a very limited space in its extremity, — which is so dark as to render a minute inspection inconvenient, especially as its entrance is washed at all times of the tide, by the sea. There are many fis- sures along the coast, which are not of importance to merit any special notice. Coast — 'I he coast of Lochs is generally very bold and rocky, especially about the headlands. 1 he more inland parts of the coast are low, and yield a great quantity of sea-ware. The princi- pal headlands are Kilbag-head and Rhu-Raimish. Temperature. — The climate is temperate, which is attributable to the insular situation of the country ; and though very damp, it is nevertheless very healthful, not only to natives, but also to stran- gers. Rainy weather prevails in Lewis, to a degree that is very prejudicial to the agricultural interest. Winds. — The prevailing winds are west and south-west, which are generally accompanied with rain. In the beginning of sum- mer, there is a succession of cold parching easterly winds generally, LEWIS LOCHS. 159 which prove very prejudicial to vegetation, and are otherwise per- nicious to cattle. Distempers. — The most prevalent distempers are rheumatism, severe colds, and occasional epidemical fevers, which sometimes prove fatal ; but that which is most decidedly peculiar to the island, is rheumatism. Hydrography — Friths. — The principal lochs or friths that inter- sect this parish, are Loch Seaforth, Loch Erisort, Loch Shell, and Loch Grimshadir. Of these. Loch Seaforth has the greatest claim to our notice, from its magnitude and picturesque scenery. It is about twelve miles long, bearing north-west from its entrance. The scenery around it, is truly majestic Clishem^ the highest hill in the Tong island, is close upon its south-west shores, while its north-east side washes the base of the principal hills of Park. It winds around many jutting points that form a variety of bays. Of these, we shall notice Mareg only. Here Loch Seaforth is land-locked, and pre- sents a scene of solitary magnificence unequalled in this neighbour- hood. About four miles farther up the loch, is a shoal that is im- passable by boats at half-tide, from its rapidity. It runs at the rate of eight miles an hour, and makes a noise with spring tides that can be heard in calm weather, at many miles distance. Ix>ch Seaforth being environed by high land, and narrow throughout, has a very gloomy aspect 1'he scenery around it, is indeed soHtary, and sel- dom frequented by man. The bleat of the sheep which pasture on the surrounding hills, sometimes breaks upon the ear. It is fre- quented by shipping ; but is not a very desirable anchorage, from the narrowness of its entry, and the loftiness of the surrounding land which causes the wind to sweep the loch sometimes in sud- den gusts. Loch Erisort is next to Loch Seaforth, in magnitude. The entrance of this loch furnishes many excellent anchorages for ship- ping of any burthen. It is much frequented, and is by seafaring men named the Barkin Isles, from a cluster of islands which are situated in its entrance. Lakes. — There are many fresh water lakes in the parish of Lochs, varyinginextentfrom a mile and a-half downwards. Of these, we shall only notice Loch Trialivall. The water of this lake is more transparent than that of any other lake in the parish. This lake has a sandy bottom ; but almost all the rest are mossy in their bottom, which darkens their water. There are a few mineral springs interspersed throughout the country. 160. ROSS AND CROMARTY. Rivers. — There is not a river of any magnitude in all the parish of Lochs, excepting the river Creed, which separates the parish of Lochs from the parish of Stomoway. The largest river in the parish is that of Laxay ; it runs out of Ix)ch Trialivall, already noticed, — which loch is fed by Loch Adigo, in the parish of Uig. This river is 3 miles long and about 30 feet broad, and is generally about 15 inches deep. The other numerous streams are so trifling as not to merit notice. Geology. — The parish of Lochs presents a very rocky aspect everywhere, except in the interior, where it Is soft and mossy^ and where the number of lakes cannot fail to excite the stranger^s astonishment. Indeed, so much fresh water on so small an extent of ground, is not elsewhere to be seen in the British dominions. Soil. — The soil is uniformly mossy, reduced in some places, by dint of industry, to a state of indifferent cultivation. It is generally black, composed of decayed vegetable matter, with an occasional mixture of gravel. The depth of the soil varies very much. It is generally thin in the spots reduced to cultivation, which renders it necessary for the agriculturist to gather it together, leaving a wide space of bare stones between every crooked ridge. The moss is ten feet deep in some places, and is rapidly increasing. Its pro- duct being the coarsest of heath is not grateful food for cattle ; it therefore decays annually, covering the spot from which it springs with a thin stratum, that progressively increases the moss on which it grows. Zoology. — The Island of Lewis abounds with sheep, black-cattle, horses and red-deer ; all of which are of a very diminutive size, in consequence of the rough unsubstantial heath which constitutes the chief part of their food. When the Lewis cattle are brought to better pasturage in the south, they improve astonishingly ; and, from their hardy nature, they suffer less in driving than any other cattle in the north. The native sheep are very similar to the breed peculiar to North Wales. Their wool is finer ; but that breed is nearly extirpated, and the common black-faced and Cheviot breeds have been introduced into the island, by Dr Macaulay of Linshadir and Mr Stewart of Valimas, — the only capitalists who have done much to improve the breed of sheep and cattle in the Lewis. Game is not very abundant in the Lewis. There are no rab** bits nor roes. There are a few hares, which are, in common with all the quadrupeds here, diminutive in size. In the feathered tribes. LEWIS — LOCHS. 161 game is more abundant, with the exception of partridges and pheasants, of which there are none. AH the insects peculiar to this climate, are abundant in the Lewis. Caterpillars have been, of late years, particularly so, — as is also that noxious insect, the grub-worm. Every kkid of fish which is to be met in the northern seas, fre* quents the Lewis coast There were great takings of herring in some lochs in this island, in (mst years, particularly in Loch Roag; but the herring fishing has not been prosperous, of late years. Herrings frequent the Lewis coast, in great shoals, every Septem- ber. They seem in perpetual progress towards the east It is sel- dom that a few stragglers from the main body visits the lochs in which they formerly so much abounded. The desertion of the Lewis lochs by the herrings, is attributed by some to the constant reaping yearly of the sea-weed or weir along the coast Whatever truth may be in this opinion, it is certain that the decrease of the quantity of herrings tsdken in the Lewis has kept pace with the in- crease of the quantity of kelp manu&ctured on the island. Cod and ling are taken in considerable abundance. But the' quantity of them taken, is not equal to that taken in former years, — notwith- standing of the improvement which has taken place in the fishing materials, and the great increase of fishermen. At present, there are about sixty tons taken annually in the parish of Lochs. The fresh water lakes of Lewis abound with black trout, all of one kind, but differing in size and quality, in different lakes. Carp are to be met with here, but rarely. The only river in •the parish of Lochs, which produces salmon, is the river of Laxay. The river Creed, which separates the parish of Lochs from th^ parish of Stornoway, produces a few salmon also ; but they are not so abundant, nor so good in quality on the river Creed, as in the river of Laxay. The proper season for fishing this river, commences in November, and continues until July. The fish taken in the early part of the season, are always the best. I have been induced to believe, by the testimony of several respectable people in this island, who have had ample opportunities of knowing, that salmon spawn every second year only. It is perfectly well known here, that while the salmon which spawned are poor and black in the months of November, December, January, February, and March, during these months other salmon come from the sea, &X and fresh ; and that the winter is the best season for fish- ing, — not that salmon is taken in greater abundance during that BOSS AND CROMARTY. L 1G2 ttOSS AND CROMARTY. season of the year, but that what is taken then is much better than what is taken, during what is called generally the fishing seasoo. Shell-fish is less abundant on the shores' of the parish of Lochs, than on the shores of other parishes in Lewis. There are a few lobsters in their season, about the headlands. Mussels are plentiful in some of the bays, where there are also a few oys- ters. There is a variety of whelks and other shell-fish of minor importance. Botany. — The parish of Lochs furnishes but a very stinted field for botanical observation. It is almostall covered with heatlu The exceptions are a few spots along the sea shore, which were ren- dered green by cultivation, and are now left in crooked ridges, as not compensating the labours of the husbandman. There is a stinted scraggy copsewood of birch of small extent, in a point of this parish called Swordle, near the spot on which the first manse in this parish stood. This is the only wood now on the island ; but the Lewis was at one time covered with wood of great size and variety, as is evident from the huge roots which are yet abundant in all parts of the island. Tradition says that the woods of Lewis were burnt by the Danes. II. — Civil History. Ancient History. — There is no account, either printed or in manu- script, of the ancient history of the parish of Lochs, excepting what may be in the possession of Mr R. Macaulay, preacher of the gospel, Stornoway, who, I am informed, proposed to collect the tra- ditions of Lewis, with a view to publication. Traditions. — The traditions of this country present a crude- mass of events, which refer more to the occasional exploits of the heroes of the Shenachies, than to the regular history of the Lewis. These traditions are nevertheless very interesting; but there is scarcely any of importance that refers to this particular parish of Lochs. The bards or shenachies of Lewis resided in the parishes of Uig and Barvas or Ness, as did also their favourite heroes. Land-owners. — The sole land-owner of this parish, and of all the Island of Lewis, is James Alexander Stewart M^Kenzie, Esq. M. P., who succeeded to the estate, on his marriage to the Ho- nourable Lady Hood M'Kenzie, widow of the late Admiral Sir Sa- muel Hood, and eldest daughter of the last Lord Seaforth. Parish Registers. — No register was kept in this parish at any time, as far as known, until July 1831, when the present incumbent became parish minister of Loclis. LEWIS — LOCHS. 163 Antiquities. — Tlie principal antiquity in the parish of Lochs is in that district called Carioway, which is situated- on the north- frest side of Lewis, separating the parishes of Dig and Barvas. This antiquity is a fortification of circular form. It was and is still covered with turf, and lined with a remarkably strong stone wall, which is, however, suffering decay. The lower part of the interior of this edifice was a place of residence, to which there was a subterraneous passage from ah adjacent hill or brae. There was also an interior wall of stone, inclosing the more elevated habitable part of the edifice ; between which and the outer wall, there was a winding flight of stone steps from the top to the bottom, — over which, there was a parapet four feet high. The interior of this for-^ tification or doan^ (as it is named in Gaelic) is now in a state of dilapidation. Its height when entire was about twenty feet It was of that class of buildings well known in Ireland by the name of round towers, of which many were built there by the Danes, who also are said in the traditions of Lewis to hilVe biiilt " Dun Char- loway.'' This fortification must have been a place of considerable strength, when the javelin, the bow and arrow were the only imple-* ments of war. Tradition says, Dim Charloway was once taken by an individual notorious in the traditions of Lewis, named " Donald Caum M^Cuil," who^ by means of two dirks which he constantly carried about with him, one of which he alternately stuck in the turf that covers the outer stone dike of Dun Charloway, raised himself up to the summit of the parapet, from which the inmates were wont to shoot their arrows at the assailing foe. Donald CJaum, once in possession of the parapet, made the sleeping in- mates easy victims to his resentment, during the darkness of night There are several ruins of fortifications of minor magnitude, but of a similar description, throughout this island. The only other in this parish, lies on a rock surrounded by the sea, at the entrance of Loch Erisort* There is a ruin on the island of St Colm, in the entrance of Loch Erisort, which was once a religious edifice. The ground surrounding this ruin, is the only place of interment in the parish of Lochs. St Colm is the place on which the first factor sent to the Lewis by the M*Kenzies, then of Kintail, resided. It is the ge- neral opinion, that the said ruin on the island of St Colm is the ruin of a place of worship, erected in the days of " Mac Mhic Mhoruchi,** which was the patronymic of the first factor sent to this island by the M*Ken£ies. 164 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Manse^ 8fc. — The manse of Lochs stands on an eminence^ on the north side of Loch Erisort It is a commodious house, but Tcrj much exposed to the inclemency of the weather. It was built up-* wards of thirty years ago, and is, with the exception of the frrm house of the Valimas, the only -house in the parish of Loehs, which is built of stone and lime. There are three dwelling-houses in the parish built of stone and clay, which are occupied by fiuman^ and are comfortable considering their size, — of which only one is slated, viz. the inn of Lochshell, which is the'only inn in the pa- rish ; it is a farm house also. The other habitations are wretched. They are built of stones and moss ; but mostly of moss. Their walls, if they can be so called, are generally four feet high, and from four to five feet thick. They are thatched with barley stubble. They are all built on declivities. Their upper ends are occupied by the families, and their lower ends by their cattle, with- out any partition or division between them. Mills* — The mills in Lewis are probably the greatest curiosity a stranger can meet with on the island. There is scarcely a stream along the coast, on any part of the island^ on which a mill is not to be seen. These mills are of very small siie, and of a very simple construction. The water passes through their middle, where the wheel, — a solid piece of wood generally^ eighteen inches in diameter, — stands perpendicularly. A bar of iron runs through the centre of this wheel. This bar of iron or axle rests on a piece of steel, which is fixed on a plank, the one end of which is fixed in the mill wall, the Qther in the end of a pieee of plank, which stands at right angles with the plank on which the wheel rests. The upper end of the axle fits into a cross bar of iron, which is fitted into the upper millstone, the axle passing through the centre of the lower millstone, which is rested upon wooden beams or long stones. There is a purchase upon the end of the said perpendicular beam or plank, by which the upper mill- stone can be raised or lowered. There are nine pieces of board, eight inches broad, and a foot and a-half long, fixed in the wheel, parallel and at equal distances from each other, upon which the water is brought to bear ; which, together with a few sticks for roof, and some heather for thatch, constitutes a Lewis mill. IIL — Population. Population in 1801, ' . 1875 1811, . 1927 1821, - 2660 1831, . 3067 LEWIS LOCHS. 165 HabiiSy Language^ i^c. of the People. — They are generally sober, hospitable, industrious, and capable of enduring much fatigue. The common food of the people is potatoes, bear meal bannocks, pottage made of black oat-meal, milk and fish occasionally. The games prevalent here were jumping, putting the stone, the shinty or club ; but these are now gone out of use. Poaching in game is not known here ; but there is poaching of a more pernicious kind practised, which, though recently checked, is not quite abolished, viz. catching fresh water fish with a kind of pock-net, m rivulets and rivers, in the spawning season. The people of Lochs are intelligent considering their opportu- nities. They are quiet, tractable, and very hospitable, sensible of their ignorance, and eager to be instructed in temporal as well as spiritual matters. It would be desirable, however, that they paid more attention to cleanliness. It cannot be expected, indeed, that a people shut out from intercourse with the civilized world should be so polished as others who have better opportunities of improve- ment; but their general good behaviour is such as might put many of these more favoured individuals to the blush. IV. — Industry. Affriddturt. — Number of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, from • 2000 to 3000 Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly waste, or in pasture, probably firom . 1^,000 to 100,000* Only a few acres are under natural wood. * Manufactures. — The only article manufactured in the parish of Lochs for exportation, is kelp,— of which upwards of 100 tons are exported annually. There are many articles manufactured here, for home consumption ; such as blankets for beds, coarse cloth, various in quality and colour, but chiefly striped, stockings, &c The poor people generally rear the wool from which they manu- facture their scanty store of these necessaries; but there are some of them (the poorest,) who have no sheep, and are therefore com- pelled to buy wool from their more highly fisivoured neighbours, — which, however, they are in many instances unable to do to the extent their necessities would require. Mechanics. — The only resident tradesmen in Lochs are, boat- builders, weavers, and tailors. Almost all the labouring part of the population, male and female, are acquainted with the manu- fecturing of kelp. All the males fit to endure the fatigue are oc- * The writer regrets he has not the means of estimating these quantities rnor^^ precisely. 166 ROSS AND CROMARTY. casioDally accustomed to fishing ; and all the females are accustom- ed to spin yarn, principally with the spindle and distaff, and also to make stockings. There are no lands in the parish of Lochs« that can properly be called arable. The plough is not used at all. The people rear ^eir crops on small detached spots, and cultivate the ground with spadeSi That notorious implement of Scottish Highland husbaqdry, ** the crooked spade/' is much used in this parish. There is not a suf* ficiency of food produced in the parish, to support its inhabitants. The wants of the inhabitants in thb respect can always be relieved at Stornoway, — where stores of every necessary are always kept by the respectable part of the mercantile community. Indeed the soil, but more especially the climate, is not favourable for agriculture s yet, by giving due encouragement to industrious capitalists, in granting them long leases, and the land at a moderate valuation, the country would be greatly improved. The parish would yield a sufficiency of provision for its inhabitants ; the money sent out of the island for provisions would be kept at home ; and, instead of the people devoting their time indiscriminately to the mixed avocations qf husbandry, fishing, kelp-making, grazing, &c. each should have his distinct and separate avocation, — which, I am persuaded, would greatly conduce to the general welfare of the conmiunity. The poor people are glad, at present, to have a spot of ground, at whatever price, to ensure some food for the ensuing year ; but while their attention is divided, as we already noticed, they can bestow on no part of their avocation that attention which, under other circum- stances, would ensure success. V. — Parochial Economy. Post and Market^Toum, — There is no post or market-towD in the parish of Lochs: the nearest to it is Stornoway, which is elevep miles from the church of lx)chs. The only post-office in the is- land of Lewis is in Stornoway, from whence there is a mail pack^ once a week (weather permitting) to Poolewe, on the mainland of Ross-shire. Roads, ^c. — There is not a road of any description in any part of the parish of Lochs. Every communication with the next market- town, must be over the trackless heath or by sea. A line of road was commenced at Stornoway in 1830, which is intended to be extended as far as Harris, passing through the parish of Ix)chs ; but that road has not as yet been extended beyond the limits of the parish of Stornoway. LBWIS — LOCHS. 167 There are many good harbours in the parish of Lochs, the principal of which are, Cromore, which is in the entrance of Loch Erisort, Lochsbell, and Marig, in Loch Seaforth. These liarbours are sufficient to accommodate shipping of any burthen. Their depth is from fifty feet downwards. Fillaffes.'^^The inhabitants of the parish of Lochs reside in de- tached village^ haying a population varying from 40 £unilies down- wards. The moat of these villages or farms are lotted in dif- ferent divisions, each tenant having his house on his own lot, and contracting with his landlord separately for his yearly rent, so that the tenants living on the same £Eurm hold their lands independents ly of each other. Some of them have their tenements placed more promiscuously. These divide their spots of com land as they are detached upon the £irm, ^ving each other a proportion according to their respective rents ; and that each may have his just share of the benefits of the pasture also, they restrict each other to a proportion of cattle corresponding with the amount of their rents : thus securing to each other, by mutual consent, a share of the produce of their farm, proportionate to their respective rents. Church. — The parish church is situate on a small peninsula, on the farm of Keose. Its situation is centrical; but the arms of the sea, by which the parish is intersected, render a regular at- tendance on divine service impracticable during the winter. There is a part of the parish situated on the nordi-west side of the island, between the parishes of Uig and Barvas, a distance of eighteen miles from the parish church of Lochs, where the mi- nister of Lochs is bound to preach once every three months. This district is named Carloway, and stands more in need of the labours of a missionary than any other place in the Long- Island. The inhabitants of Carloway have no opportunity of attending di- vine service* except when the minister of Lochs preaches there. The population of Carloway is 901. The stipend, converted to money, amounts to L. 150. The manse was lately put in good re- pair. I cannot state precisely either the extent or value of the glebe. The parish church is a new building, sufficient to accommodate 700 sitters. Public worship is well attended, excepting when the violence of the weather detains such of the parishioners as must have recourse to boating, in coming to church. There is not a Go- vernment church, nor any place of public worship in the parish of Lochs, excepting the parish church. There is not a single dis- senter from the Established Church in any part of the Lewis Is* 168 ROSS AND CROMARTT. land. Preachers from dissenting Associations have laboured among the people of Lewis for many years ; but they all failed to unite a smgle individual to their own socie^. About 530 fiunilie» a^ tend the Established Church. Education. — The remoteness of some parts of the parish of Lochs from the parish school, renders it impossible for the greater part of the rising generation, to avail themselves of die means of a liberal education. To have the means of education disseminated to an extent adequate to the necessities of the people, three other schools are requisite. This is owing principally to the physical character of the parish, the habitable parts of which are separated- from each other by arms of the sea, and by extensive tracts of waste ground. The parish schoolmaster's salary is L. 28^ and his fees do not exceed L. 1, 10s. a year. There are only 12 persons in all the parish who can write; but half the inhabitants from twelve to twenty-four years of age can read the Gaelic language, which is the only language spoken generally. A few of the males can speak broken English. It was by the instrumentality of the Gaelic School Society that so many of them were enabled to read Gaelic The Gaelic School Society has four schools at present in the parish of Lochs, which are the only schools in it The parish school has been vacant for many years, from the want of accommo- dation, — which has been much against the inhabitants, who seem to hold the benefits of education in very high estimation ; but that grievance has been removed. A commodious school-house has been erected recently, and a teacher appointed. Poor. — The only charitable contributions in this parish are raised at the church after divine service. The amount of these contributions is generally low, in consequence of the poverty of the people ; but the poor of the parish are su{^rted chiefly by their relations. Such of them as are destitute of near relations, find willing friends in their neighbours and acquaintances to administer to their necessities. The number of paupers in the parish has not as yet been actually ascertained. Jail — Alehouse. — There is no jail in the parish of Lochs. The next to it, is that of Stomoway. There is only one inn, viz. that of Lochshell, which is frequented by seafaring men only. Fuel. — The fuel used here universally is peats, which are of ex- cellent quality, and in very great abundance. This fuel is not on- ly abundant but convenient also ; for the peat banks, or the moss LEWIS LOCHS. 169 from which they prepare this fuel, is, in many instances, no more than fifty feet from the dwelling houses of the people ; though, in a few other instances, it is a full mile distant The labour of pre- paring this fuel chiefly devolves on the female part of the popula- tion, with the single e;cception of cutting the peats out of the moss, and spreading them on the ground to dry, which is done by the males. Miscellaneous Observations. The condition of the people of Lochs differs materially from what it was, when the last Statistical Account was published. Then, very few of them could read ; but now, the half of them, from the ages of ten to thirty years, can read the Scriptures in their mo- ther tongue. This happy change has been brought about, by means of the Gaelic School Society. Indeed, the proprietor and proprie- tress of this island are very energetic in disseminating a know- ledge of the oracles of truth among their poor tenants. But, from a change in the times, and other circumstances, the poor people are much reduced in circumstances. The fishing, which formerly constituted a chief part of their support, has not been proq)erous of late years; but the mainspring of their prosperity "was the price of cattle, which has also failed. This, together with the warm entreaties of their acquaintances and friends who emigrated to Nova Scotia in former years, seems to have inspired them with the spirit of emigration ; and nothing but reluctance to part with their scanty stocks of cattle, at the present very low prices, seems to retard the emigration of a great many of the people of Lochs ,this year, to British North America. 1833. PARISH OF KINTAIL. PRE8BYTERY OF LOCHCARRON, SYNOD OF GLSNBLG. THE REV. JAMES MORISON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural Histort. Name^ Situation, $*c — The parish of Kintail is situate on the west coast of the county of Ross, and chiefly along the north shore of Lochduich. The name is evidently of Gaelic derivation, and signifies {Cean da ihailt) head of two seas. An arm of the At- kntic at Kyle*akin extends eastwardly for about eight miles, until it meets the first point of land in Kintail, at the island of Donnan. At this island, die sea divides itself in such a manner, that about two-thinls take a south-east direction for six miles, terminating in what is properly called Lochduich, one of the most beautiful and romantic sheets of water in the West Highlands. The other divi- sion, called Lochlong, extends in a north-north-east direction for about 4 miles. In no part, is Lochlong more than a quarter of a mile broad. Its tides are always rapid, and at times almost irre- sisiible. Lochlong separates this district of Kintail from the pa- rish of Lochalsh ; but there is a well regulated ferry, affording an easy and safe access from the one parish to the other. Between the north-east end of Lochlong and the south-east end of Loch- duich, is included the inhabited portion of the parish. Extent, 4fc. — It is impossible to say exactly what the extent of the parish may be, as it never was accurately measured ; but, ac- cording to the opinions of those best acquainted with the grounds, it cannot be more than from 18 to 20 miles from east to west, — and of this extent iO miles only are inhabited; the rest, con- sisting of hill-grazings, is admirably fitted for the pasturing of all kinds of stock. The parish is from 5 to 6 miles broad ; but all the hamlets and cultivated land are, with few exceptions, along the sea shore. The northern district of the parish, called Glenelchaig, is separated from the southern and western division along Lochduich and Lochlong, by high and rugged mountains ; and is by no means of easy access. KINTAIL. 171 Topographical AppeaTanc€$.^~¥jXi\»j\ is, in all directions, sur- rounded with high hills* Few districts are more admirably pro- tected, or more strongly fortified by the natural bulwarks of moun- tain ranges, than the barony of Kintail. Access to it, of old, was an arduous undertaking, — the country being entirely without roads, and the principal approaches beiog through extremely nar- row glens, where a few individuals might defend the country against an invading army of many hundreds. This may truly be said of the pass of Bealach, in this parish. That pass is not many feet broad, ^d i^ flanked on both sides with perpendicular rocks of very considerable altitude, apparently overhanging their base. It is a spot of extreme wildness, and seldom does the traveller realize the feeling of loneliness with greater power than in the Bealach. Such as are pleased with scenery of this description, would do well to visit the Bealach. From whatever quarter Kintail is entered, whether by sea from the west, or by land from the east, a scene gradually unfolds itself, which it is impossible to describe. Moun- ^ias of immense magnitude, grouped together in the sublimest manper, with wood and water, scars and bens intermingled, present a prospect seldom surpassed in wild beauty, and equally interest* ing and astonishing in the storms of winter, and in the calm se- renity of summer. Among the mountains, which more properly belong to this pa- rish, TuUochard holds a conspicuous place, and merits a special notice. It stands the undisputed monarch of the mountains on the north side of Lochduich. Legendary traditions represent it as an- ciently held in high veneration ; but this feeling, if it really ever existed, is now totally extinct. It commands a pretty extensive view of many of the western isles, and is by no means difficult of ascent. Its height has not been ascertained. * There are other mountains in the parish of great altitude, and of picturesque ap- pearance, — such as Glasbhein, Soccachmaam-an-Tuirc,and Ben- Ulay. It might naturally be expected that a district so alpine as Kintail would abound with caves and caverns. The contrary is the fact ; there are only two caves, and these of an extent too trifling to> merit particular attention. Neither are there any caves on the sea coast Although a considerable proportion of our coast is rocky, yet it presents no novelty deserving of notice. The general character of * TuUochard ii the Burning Mount of the Seaforth cre«t. 172 ROSS AND CROMARTY. the shore is sandy and clayey. The chief bays in the parish are those of Domie, Inverinate, and Corfhouse. Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere, compared with that of the east coast, is mild and pleasant ; and although, generally speaking, the climate may be termed damp, it is un- commonly salubrious. Very few distempers of a virulent nature appear in the country. Rheumatism and complaints arising from damp and hard labour, greatly prevail. The natives live to a good old age. The season of the greatest mortality is from December 4;o March ; and although all the parishioners of Glensheil and of Kintail, with very few exceptions, and a vast number of the pa- rishioners of Lochalsh, inter their dead in the burying-ground of this parish, it has been remarked that, at other seasons, for weeks, indeed for three or four months, there was not an interment in the district. Hydrography. — The parish of Kintail abounds with the finest fresh water springs, chiefly perennial. Some of these afford the most abundant supplies of water. The united streams of three of them supply water sufficient for the use of the parish mill, through- out the year. During the most prolonged draught of summer, this mill has not been known to want sufficient supplies of water. The water issuing from these springs, has no particular colour to indi- cate the presence of any mineral. The natives, in some instances, resort to one particular well, deeming its waters to possess sanative qualities : but, in taste or appearance, it differs not from its thousand neighbours. The lochs belonging to this parish are few, and of no great ex- tent The largest are Loch-a-Bhealich and Loch Glassletter, abounding with trout of the finest quality, affording delightful sport to the angler. They have never been sounded; but their depth is supposed to be considerable. The rivers which merit special notice are, the Croe, separating the parishes of Kintail and Glensheil ; the Loing, separating Kin- tail from Lochalsh; and the Elchaig. The Elohaig and Loing empty themselves into Lochlong, and the Croe into Lochduich at its eastern extremity. They run but a short course, and from the great number of mountain streams which fall into them, are quick- ly flooded. These rivers at one time were much frequented by salmon, and the fishing was held as conmion property by the people. This was more especially the case with the river Croe. The sal- mon is now by no means so abundant. The Lochduich and Croe KINTAIL. 173 salmon-fishings are annually let to strangers from the east coast, who generally send the fish to the London market. It is difficult, perhaps impossible, to say, why the salmon has deserted these streams so much. Various causes have been assigned, but none of them satisfactorily accounts for the fact The idea which most com- monly prevails in the country is, that salmon, naturally fond of clear sweet water, resorted to these rivers while they possessed these qualities, (as they unquestionably did in a greater degree than they now can be said to do, while black cattle continued to be the staple stock of the country ;) but since the introduction of sheep, and the habit of washing them in the rivers, and pasturing them on the banks, has obtained, the waters have become more im- pure and less relished, and consequently not so much frequented by the salmon. The spawning season commences in the month of October; and the fish commonly return to the sea about the months of February and March. 2Tie Waterfall of Glomach, — In this parish, there is one of the highest and finest waterfalls in the kingdom, well known in the district by its appropriate name, Glomach. It is situate in a remote and uninhabited valley on the estate of Mr M^Kenzie of Applecross, and about seven miles from the inn of Shealhouse. It merits a special notice in a national work of this kind, and will most amply reward any fatigue the traveller may undergo in ap- proaching it from the plains. Its height, lately ascertained (without instruments) as accurately as the nature of the ground admitted of, is 350 feet At the distance of about 50 feet from the bottom, the water meets with a slight interruption from a shelving projec- tion in the rock. This, however, adds to, rather than subtracts from, the peculiar interest and grandeur of the scene, — forming a kind of resting-place for the eye in surveying this stupendous fall, and giving occasion to an increased volume of spray, which must ever contribute to the imposing appearance of such scenes. There is, however, independent of this break, at any season, and in any weather, a mighty fall of 300 feet. But the interruption alluded to is not at all perceptible, when there is any great body of water in the river (Girsac;) and on such occasions the fall is unbroken, terrific, and sublime. The best view is obtained from a solitary tree, about a hundred feet down the ravine, to the south-west of the fall, in a situation the most favourable possible for getting a complete view of the whole scene ; — for here, a narrow neck of rock, covered with long heath, stretches forward towards the water, enabling the 174 ROSS AND CROMARTY. visitor to occupy a station in the very centre of the tremendous ob^ jects by which he is surrounded. As there is no piitb» the tourist will at once perceive the necessity of using much caution in descend- ing to this spot On looking around him^ he finds the range of his vision fearfully limited, by objects vast and immense, concentrated in fearful magnificence before himj and in almost alarming prtaimitj to him. He is apt, however, to consider his situation more danger- ous than it really is. From the tree, the scene is extremely grand. The water appears to issue from an oblong fissure in the rock, from whence, with a fearful rush, it dashes its way, chiefly in one great column, to the pool below, from which at this station no outlet can be perceived. The immediate neighbourhood of the fitU is amazingly wild and barren. In this respect, it differs essentially from its neigh- bour at Foyers. Here and there may be seen a tuft of grass, or per- haps of breckons, a mountain saxifi*age, clinging to great naked sheets of perpendicular rocks, and adding, if possible, to the gene- ral grandeur of the scene. Geology, — The prevailing rock in this parish is gneiss, contain- ing occasionally intersecting veins, also beds, and bodies of granite and syenite. Botany. — Kintail affords ample study to the botanist. The ordi- nary plants grow profusely, and flower richly, — although it must be admitted, that the humidity of the climate obviously affects the per- fection and beauty of many of them. From this circumstance, it is most difficult to preserve plants in this country ; and although every precaution was used to prepare a Hortus Siccus, according to the method recommended by Sir J. E. Smith, of such plants as are in- digenous to the district, — yet, after the lapse of two years, they be- came quite useless and unfit for subsequent examination. No rare plant seems to be produced in this country ; and it would occu- py more space than can be well afforded, to give a minute classifica- tion of such as are indigenous to the parish. The following may be mentioned ; but the list is by no means complete. Alchemilla yulgaris Galeopsis Tetrahit ■ alpina Galium, various Anemone nemorosa Gentiana Bellis perennis Geranium, various Clomanim palustre Gnaphalium supinum Conium maculatum Hieracium Digitalis purpurea H3rpericum Androsannum Drosera rotundifblia >»— palustre ,., Anglica Iris pseudacorus Epilobium, various Lamium purpureum Erica, various - album Euphrasia officinalis Lathyrus pratensis KINTAIL. 175 Linum ctiharticiiin Rumex aoetoM Lithospennum nuuritimum Saxifiraga, various Lysimacbia, various Scabiosa suocisa Mentha hirsute SoUdago Virgaurea Myrica Gale Stotice Armeria Narthecium owifWigum SteUaria hdoatea Orchis, various Teucrium ScAodonia Pamassia palustris Thlaspi bursa-tmstoris Oxalis aeetoaella Tliyinus serpyUum Pinguicula vulgaris TormentiUa officinalis Polygala vulgairis Tussilago Polygonum, various Valeriana officinalis Rhinanthus Criste-galli Veronica, &c. Ranunculus Viola in great and beautiful proftision. The climate, notwithstanding its dampness, appears to be most favourable to the growth of plants and forest trees, — all the sorts hitherto introduced having attained great perfection. The plant- ings are, by no means, extensive in this parish, but are most thriving. Larch, spruce, and Scotch firs grow rapidly; as do all the common forest trees, oak, ash, elm, birch. Many hot^ house plants attain very great perfection and size, in the open air. There is, in particular, a hydrangia, in the parish, of uncommon dimensions in these northern climates. Its height is nearly 8 feef) circumference 31 feet 3 inches. Some of its flowers measure 17^ inches in circumference, and its annual average of flowers is about SCO. Zoology. — It might be expected that, in a country so mountain- ous, a great variety of animals would be found. The case is very much the contrary. There is nothing rare or uncommon in this department The fox, badger, polecat, martin, and weasel, are numerous ; hare and roe seldom seen, and deer are not j:iearly so numerous as many of the older inhabitants remember them to have been. The reason of this is obvious ; ih6 grazing on which the deer, in former times, pastured, is now stocked with sheep, and be- ing continually annoyed by shepherds' dogs, &c. they have for- saken their old haunts. The boar and wolf are said to have once existed in the district ; but if ever this was the casd, they have been for generations extinct The eagle, raven, and a great tariety ot the hawk genus, are common. Plover, in large covted, are fVequent^ ly met with. Grouse not being at all preserved are Qbt numerous ; and the heath being nearly burnt (for the better pasturing of sheep,) they are at once deprived of cover and sustenance. In a country where the rights of hunting and fishing were^ till lately, held common, it is difficult to convince the people they are doing wrong, in killing fish or shooting deer. And they re- 176 ROSS AND CROMARTY. gard the prohibition more as a whim of the lairds, than as the effect of legal enactment Poaching may exist, but it does not^ prevail. Now and then, a kilted stripling, finding it no longer possible to restrain the ardour of youth, takes up his grandsire's rifle * and betakes himself, in com- pany with some faithful friend, to the mountains, and seldom re- turns unburdened. But such acts as these are not of freqaent oc- currence ; and the proprietors have not hitherto, in any instance^ prosecuted for trespass under the game laws. IL — Civil History. Antiquities. — In the inimediate vicinity of the village of Domie, stand the ruins of the castle Donnan. It is generally believed to have been built, about the time of Alexander III. of Scotland ; for it was by him presented, immediately after the battle of Largs, to Colin Fitzgerald, for his distinguished services in the Royal cause *^ by sea and land." The castle has been for agesin ruins, and al- though now greatly dilapidated, a finer or more picturesque ruin can seldom be met with. Its situation was judiciously chosen ; and the scenery by which it is surrounded is of the most imposing description. Ldnd'-owners. — The landowners of the parish are, Mr M^Ken- zie, of Applecross and Inverinate, W. S. ; and the Chisholm ; and the estate of the late Sir Hugh Innes, lying in Kintail, is now under the management of trustees. \ Parochial Registers. — The parish registers are all of modem date. The earliest entry is in 1787. They are by no means vo- luminous, and are now regularly kept. III. — Population. Population in 1801, . - 1038 1811, . - 1058 1821, . . 1027 1831, . . 1240 Any increase of population which has taken place within the last twenty years, may be chiefly ascribed to the system of appor- tioning lands in lots of one and two acres, and half an acre ; and such as are not able to take a large farm, readily engage to pay from L. 4 to L. 8 for such lots, — upon which, with the help of the herring-fishing, they endeavour to lead, what, with regard to many * Some of the old Spanish rifles, once so celebrated and so common in this coun- try, are still extant, and are highly valued, if not yenerated, bv the possessors. They receive certain names, indicative of certain properties or deeds. Such as ** Maighdeann** (Maiden,) « Surgadh-Caoradh** (sheep shank,) « Nighean £wan* (Kvans*s daughter.) &c. 1 RINTAIU 177 t>f them, maybe termed a miserable existence. Notwithstanding this 6tate of things, emigration does not prevaiL Very few, not above six families, have lefi; the parish for any foreign country, for many years. The love of country prevails most strongly ; and they never think of emigration, until, from poverty, they are unable to pay their passage, and, under these circumstances, emigration is out of the question. ATerage number o^ births, according to tbe baptismal r^^ister, not Including Ro- man Catholic children, ..... 34 Number of fiunilios, ..... w w 244 chiefly employed 10 agriculture, * - 88 trade, mann&ctures, or handicraft, 28 Kumber of houMi, ....... 2^ AiFerage number of marriages among the Presbyterians of th6 parish, « 8 There is no case of confirmed insanity in the parish. There 9Te 7 idiots ; 3 afflicted with blindness ; 2 deaf and dumb, one of whom was educated in the Edinburgh Institution. JLcmguagt tf the People. — Gaelic is the language of the country, and, with the exception of a few provincial expressions, is spoken m\}\ remarkable purity and correctness. The people are better educated than formerly, and almost all the young people speak and read a little English ; yet it cannot be said that Graelic has lost ground, or that in conversation, business, or in any other re^ i^ct, it has been superseded by English. Character of the People, — In every country, however orderly and welUbehaving the natives may be, and however strictly parochial discipline may be administered, there is always much to Teform and many things to censure; but, in justice to the parishioners of Kintail, it must be said, that from the earliest history of the country, they have been distinguished for general good conduct. In a po^ pulation of 1240 souls, there is only one drunkard. There is no such character as a thief, and seldom, indeed, does a case of petty larceny occur. There never was, in the memory of man, an in- dividual executed or banished the country, for crime. IV. — Industry. This is chiefly a pastoral parish ; and it does not appear of ira*- portance to ascertain the quantity of ground in tillage, or to make any remarks on the mode of cultivation. The larger farms are in the natural possession of the proprietors, and are managed on the most approved system of husbandry. Little attention com-> paratively is paid to the arable land ; regard is almost exclusively directed to the sheep stock, which has of late years been greatly ROSS AND CROMARTY. M 178 ROSS AND CROMARTY. improved, in consequence of cromng (as it is tended) from the old black-faced stock to the Cheviot, — ^which has been attend^ with the happiest results, as sheep from this parisirand neigfabour* hood, generally fetch the first prices, at the southeni markets* Along the north-^ast shore of Lochlong, there are two fishing villages, Domie and Bundalloch. They are densely peopled; but, with the exception of Dornie, where there are a few good houses, there is nothing which merits any special notice about them, v.— Parochial Economy. There is no market of any kind established in the parish, the nearest market-towns being Dingwall and Inverness ; but, the greater part of the year, steam-boats plying from Glasgow to Sky^ and passing through the inner sounds of Kyles Ehea and Achin, aiford the greatest convenience to the country ; and almost all the re- spectable inhabitants are provided, in this manner, with all the ai^ tides of home consumption. There is no post-office in the parish ; but mails are received and dispatched, three times a-week, in the adjoining parish of Lochalsh) from which, as often, letters are forwarded by post-runners to Kintail, Glensheil, and Glenelg. A Parliamentary road passes through the parish, is annually repaired, and kept in admirable order. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is as conveniently si- tuate for the majority of the parishioners, as it well could be. It is built at the eastern inhabited extremity of the parish, within the easy reach of a dozen families, — while the great body of the con- gregation are from three to six miles distant Notwithstanding such a manifest inconvenience, the church is well attended. It is by no means large enough for the congregation. It is seated only for 290 souls ; and there are no seat rents paid. There is no re- cord of the period at which it was built It was partially roofed anew, and otherwise repaired, some years ago. There are now, however, manifest appearances of decay about the roof and galle^ ries ; and it is fondly hoped, another repair will not be attempted, but that a new parish church will be erected in a more centrical situation. The manse was built in 1830-31, and is commodious. The glebe is somewhat extensive, but, from the rugged, rocky nature of the ground, is fistr from being valuable. The amount of stipend depends a good deal on the fiar prices, and for many years has not exceeded L. 170 per annum. There are no Chapels of Ease in the parish, nor Government ministers, nor Missionaries. KINTAIL. 179 There are two catechiste. There is a Popish priest resident in the parish, and his visiting bishop rendes in Banffshire. EducaHoru — Besides the parish school, there are two Society schools, where the ordinary branches of. education are taught^ Gaelic, English, grammar, writing, arithmetic, church music, &c» The salary of the parish schoolmaster does not exceed L. 27, in« eluding allowance for garden ; and he does not possess the legsd accommodation, from the great poverty of the inhabitants. There are hardly any school dues paid ; it is almost vain to exact any. In all probability, there are not forty shillings of school dues an* nually paid in the parish. Poor and Parochial JPimib.— The average number of paupers re- ceiring parochial aid, may be stated at 30. The highest annual rate is 9s. Begging is considered and felt as a degradation by the natives, although this feeling, from the growing poverty of the country, is not so strong as it once was ; but even still it is only when dire necessity urges, and every other resource feils, that parish relief or the bounty of their neighbours is sought; and it is only on occasions of unusual and peculiar distress, that they go a-beg- ging to other districts. The annual amount of collections at the church door, averages about L. 9. The paupers are arranged in three classes ; the lowest class seldom receive more than 4s. an- nually. The small amount of oar collections may be accounted for, by the drcumstance of there being no resident heritor, — by our church*going population being, with few exceptions, extremely poor, *-— and the parish funds having received no aid but once, (on a late occasion,) from any of the non-resident heritors. The evils attend- WB% non- residence are greatly felt here. Miscellaneous Observations. A great change has certainly taken place in the worldly circum- stances of the people, since the last Statistical Account of this pa- rish was drawn up. Then, almost every respectable householder paid rent to the laird, and all were in easy, happy, and compara- tively affluent circumstances. The contrary is now too often the case. Rents were raised, the people became poor, they were either deprived of, or voluntarily gave up, their possessions ; and many who, then, were in good circumstances, with from six to ten and even sixteen milk cows, with horses, goats, sheep, &c. have since died in poverty, or now live in penury; and yet, strange as it may seem, in maimers and dress, there is the greatest improvement. Formerly, parents and children wore nothing but 180 EOSS AND CROMARTY. Stuffs of home manufacture. They had plenty of wool, and leisure enough to turn it to the best account. Inverness or Dingwall were at too great a distance, to be visited by females, — ^many ct whom never saw a merchant's shop ; and they seldom purchased from pedlars, whose wares were sold at an extravagant rate. Now, they have no wool of their own. The wages of the young people are raised. Cotton goods are cheap : and on Sabbath, the people are not only decently, but fashionably attired* But there is another improvement of much greater importance to which we must allude, — and that is the growing intelligence of the people. About fifty years ago, few, comparatively speakings of the inhabitants, could read; and their knowledge hardly extended beycKid the ordinary routine of their every-day occupations. But^ in this respect, an agreeable change has taken place. A consi« derable majority of the younger portion of the population can read the Bible; and indeed the whole body of the people may be said to pay more regard to the cultivation of their mind than at the period alluded to, — though even still, it must be confessed, there is much room for improvement, and much ignorance prevails,—* accompanied sometimes with indifference to education. It is^ how- ever, a pleasing reflection, that although the progress of edueatioa is somewhat slow, and its advantages have not, as yet, appeared much amongst us, — it is advancing with a sure and steady pae^ and that we are encouraged to hope the period is not fiu* distant when our once neglected but interesting Highlanders may, as an educated and well informed peasantry, bear a comparison with any of the same class in Scotland, and be, at the same time, distin* guished, as they have uniformly been, for the correctness of their conduct, and the simplicity of their manners. September 1836. PARISH OF GLENSHEIL. PRESBYTERY OF LOCHCARRON, SYNOD OF GLENBLO. THE REV. JOHN M'RAE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The district of Kintail, which formerly constituted a parish of that name, was, about a century ago, divided into two parishes, to one of which the original name of the district has been appropriat- ed, — while the other has received the name of Glensheil, from the valley which forms its central division. Name. — The etymology of this word is so obscure as to give abundant scope to the ^cy of the philologist, being equally capa- ble of being interpreted the glen of cattle (Glenshelibh,) of hunt^ ing (Glensheilg,) or of rain (Glenshilidh,) — any of which is suf<* ficiently descriptive of the locality, while there is none of them so exactly represented by the modem pronunciation of the name as to determine ite meaning. Boundaries. — The parish is bounded, on the north, by the arm of the sea called Lochduich,* which divides it from the parishes of Lochalsh and Kintail, and the river of Croe ; on the east, by the parishes of Kiltarlity, Urquhart, and Kilmanivaig; on the south, by the parish of Glenelg; and on the west, by the strait of Kyle- rea, which divided it from Skye. Its greatest length, which Ues from east to west, is about 26 miles, with a breadth varying be- tween 2 and 6 miles. Topographical Appearances. — The parish consists of two divi- sions, distinguished by physical characteristics. The eastern and larger division is of a decidedly alpine character. It consists of three ranges of lofty mountains, separated by narrow vallies. These chains, originating near the head of Lochduich, after running pa. rallel to each other in a southerly direction, for five miles, turn off to the south-east, and again trending to the east, join the ridges which separate the vallies of Strathglass, Glenmoristone, and Glen- garry. At their western extremities, they rise from the level of the sea, with a rapid and almost precipitous ascent, to an average * Loch Dutbich, St Duthec*8 Loch. Tain has its Gaelic name from the same saint, *« Baile Dhutbich.** 182 E08S AND CROMARTY. height little short of 4000 feet ; and presenting many series of pyramidal summits, among which the peak of Scikr-^ran is eminent- ly conspicuous, they form a piece of alpine scenery not often sur- passed in grandeur. The middle chain is distinguished by the name of Benmore, great mount ; that on the north is called Bein- fhadd, long mount ; and the other Meal-cheann-dearg, red'headed mass. Between these ridges, lie the vallies of Glenshell and Glenlichd, t« e. the valley of the Jlat stone orfiag^ — the former extending along the western, — the other, along the eastern base of Benmore. Tlie valley of Glensheil is about fifteen miles long, the lower por- tion of which space consists of a level plain about eight miles long and half a-mile wide, containing some good meadow and arable landy through which the river Sheil winds between low banks omameot* ed with alder bushes. The lower end of this portion is oecupied by the lake of Lochsheil. About the middle, its breadth gradual- ly diminishes, until the mountains approach so closely as to leave only room for the stream to pass between them. But after passing the level, at which the waters which run to the east divide from those flowing to the west, — the valley again expands, and forms a bed for the lake of Cluonie, which is about six miles long, and the middle of which marks the boundary of the parish in this direction. The valley of Glenlichd is shorter and narrower than the other, opening at its lower end into the strath of Croe, 1. 1. the Sheep Penn^ which is about five miles long and two broad, and is drained by the river Croe, which here divides the parish from Kintail. The western division of the parish, called Letterfeam, ue.the alder sidcj* consists of the north side of a hill, of the average height of about 2000 feet, and is 12 miles long and 2 broad, forming the south bank of Lochduich, and extending from Kyle-rea to the pass of Ratagan, where it joins the most southerly of the mountain chains already described. The character of this division is far more attractive than that of the other. The rock is here well covered with soil, and clothed with pasture of remarkable verdure. The ground rises with a gentle slope from the water, the general uni- fbrmity of the landscape being agreeably diversified with bold head- lands, precipitous ravines, and rocky eminences, interspersed with cultivated fields and clumps of natural wood. Meteorology. — Although no meteorological tables have been kept in this parish, the climate may be stated generally as characterized • The oppoftite side of the lech, in the parish of Kintail, is called Letter^^ioU : i, e, the wooded tide, 4 Gi^ENSHEIL. 183 by mildness and humidity. The thermometer seldom indicates a higher temperature than 77^, and has not been observed lower than 24^ of Fahrenheit. The average temperature, as ascertained by observations upon the heat of springs, may be about 47^ The changes in the^pressure of the atmosphere are frequent and rapid, the mercury in the barometer, which usually stands at 29^ inches, often rising or falling half an inch, in the course of a few hours. The heat of summer is tempered by the influence of a moist soil and cloudy sky, — while in the lower parts of the parish} in consen quence of the vicinity of the ocean, frost is seldom felt, and i& never intense, or of long continuance. The prevalent wiqd is the south-west, which blows more frequently than all other winds together. This wind, sweeping over the expanse of the At- lantic, and being consequently saturated with moisture, proceeding from a warmer to a colder latitude ; and having its temperature fur- ther depressed in passing over the mountains by which the parish is surrounded, is necessarily a rainy wind, and by its prevalence communicates the same character to the climate. The chief falls of rain are experienced in the months of August, September, and November. October is often dry, although storms of westerly wind, accompanied with thunder and lightning, not unfrequently occiv* The winters are usually open and mild, snow seldom falling on the low grounds, and never lying for more than a. few days; but in the high mountains, it falls to a considerable depth, and does not en-^ tirely disappear before the middle of June. The spring months are always boisterous and inclement, and May is often cold and unge-v nial, but in June and July the weather is almost invariably delightful. As a proof of the mildness of the climate, it may be mentioned that tender greenhouse plants, as hydrangea, fuchsia, balm, geranium, aad others, live out the winter, in gardens, with scarcely any pro- tection from the weather. The climate is also extremely salubrious. No endemic disorder is known. Contagious diseases are rare, and since the disappearance of small-pox, have not been extensively mortal. The complaints most prevalent are pneumonia, rheuma- tism, and dyspepsia, with phlegmonous and erysipelatous affections; disorders which have their origin, probably, in the fatigue and cold to which the people are exposed in prosecuting the herring fishery, combined with the effects of a moist climate and insufficient nourish- ment. Upon the whole, the inhabitants of the parish enjoy a &ir portion of health. The prejudice against the practice of vaccina- tion, which at one time prevailed, has given way before the expe- 184 ROSS AND CROMARTY. rience of its efficacy. There is no medical practitioner lesideBi io the parish, the duties of that profession thus doTolTing on the minister. * The prognostications of the weather usually referred to by the Highlanders, are entitled to little regard, bemg oertaia days of the week or month,-*which they consider, on the authority of traditkni alone, as types of the subsequent season. They ascribe certain in- fluences to the phases of the moon, equally unworthy of attention ; supposing that an increasing moon communicates a growing quali^ ty to all substances, and a decreasing moon the contrary^-— on which account they will not fell timber, cast peats, or cut hay, while the moon is on the increase, beliering that they will not season proper- ly, — nor kill meat during the decrease, from an idea that doing so would occasion its shrinking. It is also a prevalent opinion dial every moon imparts a peculiar character to the weather during its continuance, so that should it . be new moon about the end of April or of October, the month of May, in the former case, will pos- sess the character of spring ; and in the latter^ that of November will resemble autumn. Hydrography. — The arm of the sea which bounds the parish on the north, is closed in, on the west, by the eastern extremity of the Isle of Skye, with the exception of the straits of Kyle*rea and Kyle- akin, by which the loch communicates with the ocean, on either side of that island. This inlet consists of three distinct portions^ the largest of which, called Lochalsh, divides the western end of Glensheil from the parish of that name. This piece of water^ which runs east and west, is about 10 miles long, by 3 miles wide at its broadest part. It is divided into two parts by the low isbuEul of Glass Elian, t. e. Green Island, which is about thirty acres in ex- tent, with flat sandy shores extending so far on every side, as to leave only a narrow passage between it and either land. About four miles to the east of this island, the inlet divides into two unequal * Under the present bead, may be mentioned an extraordinary instanee of abtd* nence, which occurred about the close of the last century. A female of this pariah, oC the name of Isabella Macrae, of weak intellect, and a beggar, had left Glenmoristoae, where she had been soliciting alms, at the beginning of a Adl of snow, which lay «poii the ground for the unusually long period of six weeks. Dqring the greater part of this tinac, the poor woman was not missed, her A-lends in this parish beherlng that ifae was waiting in Giemnoristone for the disappearance of the snow. It was at last aac^u tained that she had left that country, on her way home ; but it was only at the end of the period above-mentioned, that she was discovered, under a wreath of snow alire^ after eating all the heather within her reach. She was known to have had a small quantity of oatmeal in her possession, which, with the heather, composed the whole of her sustenance, during the time that site remained under the snow. Though she lived some years afterwards, she never recovered an erect 'posture, and it is also reconkjd^ that when found, her chest bore the impression of her knees, in consequence of her having been so long In a sitting and stooping posture. GLENSHEIL. 185 oranches, the largest of which runs in a south-east direction, and the other to the north-east The former of these is properly called Lochduich, although it gives its name to the whole inlet The length of this inner loch from the point where the other branch, which is called Lochlong) the Skip lochf joins it, is six miles, — its breadth at the entrance being half a mile; but towards its eastern extremity it widens to neariy two miles. Its course is nearly straight, with a flight curvature having its convexity to the south-west At its eastern angle, it throws off a branch to the north-east, about a mile long and half a-mile wide, called the Little Loch. The depth of the water in this inlet, is various ; in the western division, it runs from 15 to 30 fathoms ; at the entrance of Lochduich (proper) it does not exceed 10 fathoms; but towards its head, it increases con- siderably, bebg in some parts from 80 to 100 fathoms. In the shallower parts, the bottom consists of rock, and sometimes sand and gravel ; at the great depths, it is always mud. The water of this inlet, in consequence of the narrowness of the passages by which it communicates with the ocean, neither of which exceeds a quarter of a mile in width, is much less salt than sea water usually is. Partly from this cause, it is sometimes observed, during severe frost, to become partially covered with a crust of ice about one-eighth of an inch thick. It has never been known, however, to be completely frozen over ; nor does the partial con* geladon now mentioned take place unless the weather is calm, and the frost has been preceded by rain, which floats on the surface of the sea, when there is no wind to occasion the mixture of the dif« ferent strata. During the autumn, the water is strongly luminous, when disturb- ed, in consequence of the multitudes of medusae, heroes, and other phosphorescent animals, which then appear in it In ordi- nary weather, there is nothing peculiar in the colour ; but after heavy falls of rain, it is rendered so muddy that no object can be seen through it, at the depth of a few feet The current runs with considerable rapidity, through the narrows at the entrance of the Loch, and both sides of Glass-Ellen ; and the rate at spring tides may here amount to four miles an hour. In the strait which divides the parish from Skye, the current is extremely rapid, running at times at the rate of seven miles per hour. It is high water in the inlet about six o'clock, on the day before new and full moon. The or- dinary height to which the tide rises, with springs, is 16 feet. Both the height and time of high water, however, are much influ- 186 ROSS AND CROMARTY. enced by the direction and force of the wind. A gale of south* west wind often raises the water 4 feet above the elevation which it would otherwise attain, and at the same time causes it to rise half an hour sooner than the proper time of high water, — while a north or east wind produces the opposite effect The change of tide in Kyle-akin, in consequence of the water having to make the circuit of the island of Skye, before it comes to the entrance of this strait, is generally three hours later than in the other passage^ although the distance between them does not exceed four miles* The whole of the inlet affords safe anchorage for shipping of any size. At the junction of Lochduich with Lochalsh, occurs the harbour of Ob-Inag, a creek of a semicircular form, having a suf- ficient depth of water, a muddy bottom, and shelter from every wind. The bay of Ardintoul also, and that of Craigan-roy, at the south comer of Lochduich, are safe and commodious harbours. Although the whole of this inlet, and particularly Loohduich proper, is sheltered by the barrier of mountains which inclose it from every wind, it is very subject to heavy squalls. Tliis is the consequence of the height and steepness of the hills, which inter* nipt the fair passage of the wind. During a gale of south-west wind, which blows perpendicularly to the direction of the inner loch, the water is torn up in spoondrift, and sometimes whirled about to a great height in the air. On such occasions, the loch presents the appearance of an immense boiling and smoking caulr dron. In fine weather, Lochduich assumes a remarkably pleasing character. The view then presented from its entrance, when its verdant and finely variegated banks are seen, in contrast to the magnificent back ground formed by the mountains at its termina- tion, and when the whole scene is reflected from the glassy surfiaice of the water, is one which combines lovelmess with grandeur, in a degree seldom equalled, and certainly not exceeded, on the west coast of Scotland. In the eastern portion of the parish, two rivers of moderate sise occur, each running from the eastward, with a course of about twelve miles, and falling into the loch at its south and east comers. The water of both is remarkably clear, in consequence of their flow- ing from high mountains nearly destitute of moss. Both are favourite resorts of salmon and trout The parish is abundantly supplied with springs, which gush out at short intervals ; distinguished firom the superficial rivulets, by the channels in which they flow being no wider or deeper, than is necessary to contain the stream, and bv OLEN8HEIL. 187 the profusion o£ saxifrage, water cresses, and other fontine plants, by which their course is accompanied; and their generally forming a plot of marshy land covered with alder and willow trees. There are no mineral q>rings except some that are tinged with iron ore, none of which are drunk medicinally. The lakes connected with the parish, of such extent as to re- quire notice^ are three. Loch Cluonie, ue. the lake ofMeadaws^ the largest, has been already mentioned. In the next valley to the south of it, occurs Loch Liiin, about a mile long by half a mile broad. The water of both these lochs flows eastward into the river Moriston, and they abound in trout of good quality. The other lake is Lochsheil, also already mentioned, — through which the river Sheil flows to the sea. Geology and Mineralogy. — The mountains of this parish con- sist chiefly of gneiss, variously modified in respect of the size and proportions of its component minerals, and alternating occasional- ly with mica slate. On the banks of Loch Cluonie, a tract of granite occurs, coarse grained, and tinged with red. That part of Letterfeam, which lies to the south-east of the church, consists of gneiss, deeply tinged of a red colour with iron ; beyond this, to the west, the rock resumes its ordinary grey colour. At this point, there occurs a bed of primitive limestone, grey, spotted with green and red, taA very impure. A similar bed is found near the harbour of Ob-Inag, extending across the hill to Glenelg, and presenting veins of asbestos. In this last position, the rock has a manifest influence on the vegetation in its neighbourhood, which is un- usually verdant -The dip of the rocks is generally between north-east and south-east ; but both this and the angle of in- clination, whish is generally considerable, are extremely irregular. In the higher mountains, masses of quartz and plates of mica, of considerable size, are found ; and along the shore^ beds of soft talc slate are not unfirequent In the hill above Ratagan, stones with drusy cavities containing crystals of quartz, lined with a yel- low metallic ore, are found; and to the west of the manse, cubical masses of the same substance, being probably an ore of iron, have been discovered. Soil — Thesoilof thevalliesof Glensheiland Croe consists of gra- vel and sand of various degrees of fineness, well covered with vegetable mould, and would, in a more favourable climate, be well adapted for cultivation. Along the sea shore, the soil is generally a coarse gravel, containing many stones, carried down by the streams from the ravines 188 ROSS AND CROMARTY. which they have Tormed in the sides of the moiintaiDs. These pieces of land are capable of producing good crops of bear or bigg and po- tatoes, but require frequent supplies of manure. In the hollows which occur between rocks or the lower slopes of the hiUs, the soil is not unfrequently deep and fertile. In the higher mountains, peat does not exist in any considerable quantity, nor in the low grounds at all, with the exception of a small spot, near the outlet of Glen- sheil ; but the summit of the hill above Letterfeam is covered with this substance. Clay occurs in a few places, near the sea, and is used as mortar. From the frequency of rain, the greater part of the soil, with the exception of the gravelly spots above-mentioned, is naturally wet, while the nature of the subsoil, which is either rock or compact and impervious till, renders the operatioo of drain- ing laborious and expensive. The peculiar character of the rock also, which frequently protrudes from the soil, constitutes a seri- ous obstacle to agriculture. There are no mines of any description in the parish. Zoology — Quadrupeds. — Among wild animals, the first place must be assigned to the red-deer, which are still to be found in con- siderable numbers in the eastern parts of the parish. The roe is rarely to be met with. Hares are numerous, and the grey moun- tain species, which becomes white in winter, is found in the higher mountains, feeding upon the smooth green herbage which some- times occurs near the highest summits. The badger excavates his burrow in the lower slopes of the hills ; and from the cairns of bro- ken rock which occupy the same situations, the fox has not yet been extirpated. The fissures of the rocks harbour numbers of wild cats and polecats. The marten is not unfrequent in the woods, and of the clefts of rocks that border the lakes or the sea, the otter is a constant tenant Weasels are numerous, and the stoat is occasionally seen. Rats and mice abound, although the former have only appeared within the last few years. Moles are very numerous, but the squirrel, hedgehog, and rabbit are unknown. Birds. — In the precipices among the higher mountains, the brown and black eagles build their nests, to the serious injury of the sheep-farmer, to whose young lambs they are scarcely less destructive than the fox. The osprey frequents similar situations near the sea. The white and brown owls, kite, and buzzard are numerous. Hawks of difierent species abound, as do also the rook, raven, and hooded-crow, but the magpie is rare, and the carrion* crow, the jack-daw, and the jay have not been seen. The cuckoo OLENSHEIL. 189 regularly ushers in the summer, and its young, found in the nest of the titlark, has been frequently reared, but in no instance has it lived to utter its peculiar note. The wryneck and woodpecker are unknown, as are also the kingsfisher, hoopoe, and creeper. The black-cock is rare ; but the red grouse are rather numerous, and among the heaps of stones which occur on the higher slopes of the mountains, the ptarmigan is not unfrequently seen. Partridges are not numerous. The rock and wood pigeons occur, but rarely. The stare is also a rare bird The missel, blackbird, redwing, field* fare, and throstle are common. The ring-ouzel is sometimes, and the water-ouzel frequently, met with. The chatterer and gross- beak are unknown, but finches and buntings abound,^-especially of the former genus, the chaffinch, bullfinch, sparrow, and linnet, — and of the latter, the common, yellow, and snow-buntings ; the last named species generally appearing in large flocks, before the first snow of the winter. The wood and field-larks are unknown, but the skylarks and titlarks are numerous ; as are also the white and the yellow wagtails, the red-breast, stone-chat, and wren. The great and blue titmice are abundant The window swallow is a regular Tisitor, and the goat-sucker is sometimes heard. Of the class of waders, the heron, curlew, woodcock, snipe, sand* piper, oyster-catcher, and golden plover, are well known, the last occupying in great flocks the summits of the less elevated moun- tains. _ The rare long-legged species {Himantopus melanopterus) has been found. The corn-rail is familiar in the hay fields, and the water-hen occurs in the marshes. Among the fin-footed birds, the coot and grebe are seen ; and of the numerous tribes of web-footed birds, the guillemot and imber, the gull and the tern may be men- tioned. The stormy-petrel has been observed, skimming over the sea, or floating on its surface when calm. The red-breasted goosan- der, the smew, and the cormorant, are often seen diving along the shores ; the wild swan, in severe winters, visits the lakes; the lag- goose and the bernacle are not unknown ; and the mallard, teal, widgeon, and tufted duck are common on the lakes and loch. Fishes, — Among the inhabitants of the waters, of the cetaceous class, the herring-whale and the fin-fish, the dolphin, porpoise, and seal, are all occasionalvisitors. Of cartilaginous fishes, there occur the piked and the spotted dog-fish, the skate and the thornback, the angler and the pipe-fish. The sturgeon has been sometimes taken of a large size. Of the apodal bony fishes, may be mentioned the con- ger and common eel, and the lance or sand-eel. Among the jugular 190 ROSS AND CROMARTV. fishe% the important genus of the cod deserves the first notiM. Of this tribe, the common cod, the haddock, the bib, the oole-fith» the whiting, the hake, the ling, and the pollack or lythe are well koown. The five-bearded cod and the tusk have been found. The snaoothy the spotted, and the viviparous blenny are numerous on the rocky shores ; as'are two species of flounder, on the sandy shallows. Tie common wrasse and sea-perch are often taken ;^ and the elegantly marked bimaculated wrasse is sometimes caught The oommon mack* erel is numerous, as is also the scad or horse mackerel; but neither is much esteemed. The grey gurnard visits the loch, m great numbenb in autumn; the red is cdso sometimes taken. Both on the sea shore and in the rivers, the salmon and the white trout are abundant. The lakes abound with the yellow spotted trout. The grey mul- let b sometimes caught ; but the herring is the staple fish^of the parish. It usually enters the loch, early in August, at which time it is always full of roe and milt, or lean, and feeding on its own fry, which at this season it devours so greedily, as to be frequently caught upon the hooks baited with a white feather for catching the young cole-fish. The next shoal which enters the loch, about the end of August, is genemlly of fine quality, fat and lai^ From this period, the fish usually decrease in numbers, and fell off in qua- lity till the beginning of December, when they gradually disappear. It is not a little remarkable, that, at the period of the season in which the herring is in the finest condition, there in nothing to be found in its stomach. This is probably the consequence of its feeding at this tine upon animalcules^ which are either in ■■■Ma froaa their diminutive size or transparency, or are so quickly digest* ed as to have escaped observation, probably upon the luminous kinds which always accompany it. Reptiles. — The only reptiles are frogs, toads, and lizards. No serpents have occurred in the parish. Insects. — The insects of this parish have not attracted much atten- tion ; consequently no rare or interesting kinds have been observed. Wild bees are numerous and of several species, forming their hives in the deep soil or in the mossy pastures. The scarlet and the white butterflies are very abundant. The gooseberry caterpillar is the only insect complained of as destructive to vegetation, and the midge as troublesome to man. The fly which deposits its eggs in the back of the sheep, has scarcely found its way this far north, and it is hoped that the wetness of the climate will prevent it from extending its ravages. The same cause probably preserves the GLBNSHEIL. l&l fruH trees fiointhe depredatidns of insects* A beautiful caterpil>- lar, resembling a green leaf bent into a tube, with its nenres and foot-stalk, was observed two years ago Upon the Lombard j poplar. The only kinds of shell-fish which abound on the shores of Lochduich are whelks^ limpets, and mussels, all of which are used as bait for fish, and in times of scarcity are resorted to by the poor people as food. Clams add other bivalres are rare* The lobster is scarcely known, but the greeb crab is very common^ An ani- mal bearing a close resemblance to a leech was discovered by the writer, two years ago, under a stone at low water mark, of the ex- traordinary length of four yards. Botany. — The Flora of this parish does not seem to contain any plants but such as are common in similar situations in the High^ lands, unless the Epilobium angmtifbliumj a large plot of which occurs near the church, be considered worthy of notice. Of the native plants applied to economical purposes, may be mentioned the common heath, the green tops of which dye a good yellow, and with indigo a tolerable green ; the bark of the alder, which, with the addition of copperas, forms a good black i the Lecanara tartarea, which dyes a purple, and the Parmelia omphalodeSf a reddish-brown. The twigs of the sallow are twisted into ropes, as a substitute for hemp, as are also the shavings of fir root, ru8he9 and heath laid with the hand. In domestic practice, the leaves of the spearwort {Banunadus lingua) are used as a blister ; the red crane's-bill {Geranitan robertianum,) to abate the inflammation in erysipelas ; a cataplasm of hemlock {Cicuta virosa) is a favourite ap- plication to indolent tumours ; and a decoction of the sundew {Dro^ sera rotundifilia and langifolia) is used to cure urinary disorders of cattle. The native fruits found in the parish are brambles, Rubusjruti" corns and corylifoL ;) roebuck berries {R. saxatilis ;) raspbefriesi (jR. idmLs;) of which the white variety occurs; cloudberries {R. cham rency ; viz. that the Macraes only attained to consequence by marrying the widows of the Maclennans slain at Auldearn, — is destitute of all foundation, and contradicted by ample evidence, written and traditional, from which it clearly appears* 1. That the Macraes were a tribe of considerable notice, before the Maclennans eiisted as a dan known by that name ; 2. that the former had attained to a higher dqpree of impofft- GLENSHBIL. 193 The most interesting historical event connected with the parish is the action which was fought in the cause of the Stewarts in the valley of Glensheil, in June 1719, between the Macraes, sup- ported by some other adherents of the family of Seaforth, and 400 Spaniards, commanded by Earl William of that name ; and a body of the Royal troops. The principal force of the Highland- ers was posted on the north bank of the Sheil, on a steep emi- nence overlooking the narrow pass, into which the valley is here contracted ; and round the base of which, on the brink of the tor- rent, which at this place forms a succession of &lls and deep pools, wound the rugged path by which the Royal forces were advancing. The Spaniards occupied a similar eminence on the south bank ; while a small party, at the head of which was the celebrated Rob Roy, was stationed about a quarter of a mile to the eastward, be- hind a hillock, with the view of surprising and surrounding the ene- my. The advantages of this strong position were rendered una- vailing by the superior discipline of the King's troops, and the trea- chery or cowardice of the foreign auxiliaries. The Highlanders fought with their accustomed bravery, repelling three several at- tempts to dislodge them from their position. A fourth attack proved more successful. Earl William being dangerously wound- ed, and the Royalists having, with hand grenades, set fire to the long heather among which the Highlanders were posted, the latter fell into confusion : and receiving no support from the Spaniards, who, on a party being detached to attack them, laid down their arms without firing a shot, they retired, carrying along with them their wounded leader. Of Rob Roy, it is recorded, that having, with more zeal than judgment, attacked the rear of the enemy's column before they had become engaged in front, his little party was rout- ed, and the intention of placing the King^s troops between two fires, was thus defeated. In constructing the Parliamentary road which runs through this pass, a few years since, several bullets and some pieces of musket barrels were found ; and the green mounds which cover the graves of the slain, anK)ng which, that of the ^^ Dutch Oolonel," Wightman, is distinguished, and the ruins of a rude breastwork, which the Highlanders had constructed on the crest of the hill to cover their position, — still mark the scene of the con- flict ance before the date in question, than at any subtequent period ; 3. that more of their number fell at Auldearn, than of the Itfaclennans ; and 4. that the latter have always been considered a subordinate sept. ROSS AND CROMARTY. N 194 KOSS AND CROMARTV. Antiquities. — Oil the estate of Letterfi^rn, near the harbour of Ob-Inag, are the remains of one of those singular stnietures, which, for want of a better name, have been denominated *^ Picts* houses." This building, like the rest of the same kind, is of a circular shape, having the faces of the wall separated by an interval, which, at the base, is 3 feet wide, but diminishes gradually upwards, until it en- tirely disappears. Across this space, rows of band-stones are laid in a spiral manner, connecting the two faces of the walL The in- ternal diameter is 25 feet, and the thickness of the wall, including the enclosed space, is 9 feet An aperture of 4 by 5 feet occurs on the side that looks to the sea. The building is constructed of flat stones, the greater number of which are of large size (that co- vering the entrance, which is of a triangular form, cannot weigh less than a ton,) apparently carried from a heap of atones of the same kind that occurs in the immediate vicinity. These stones are laid with remarkable accuracy, especially on the external &ce, being so closely tilted as to leave no room for pinnings, but with- out mortar. The internal surface is less carefully built; and ho attention has been bestowed on smoothing the sides of the inter- vening space, into which the painted ends of the longer stones are suflered to protrude far beyond the general leveL There is no tradition, except such as is manifestly fabulous, respecting the date or purpose of this building. The peculiarity of its construction, indeed, indicates an origin too remote to leave room to expect that the case should be otherwise. This is a subject, the investigation of which demands and merits more attention than it has hitherto received. These towers seem to point to an era and a state of society, concerning which history is altogether silent Respecting the intention with which they were erected, no theory has yet been suggested that is not liable to objection. The opinion of their having been strongholds for securing the cattle, is contradicted by their limited dimensions, and by the care bestowed, and the labour expended in their construction. That they were intended as places of refuge from an invading enemy, is rendered equally improbable, by their being unprovided with loopholes for the discharge of wea- pons, and their being sometimes, as in the present instance, com- manded and overlooked by a neighbouring eminence. For being permanent places of residence, they seem not at all adapted, hav- ing had neither windows nor roof; and did their construction, other- wise, admit of the supposition, that they were meant for watch- towers or beacons, the position of this one, which is situated in a 1 GLBNSHEIL. 195 hollow, from which there is but a very limited view, would prove its fallacy. But in whatever obscurity the particular purpose of their erection may be involved, these buildings clearly indicate, by their great size and the mode of their construction, a measure of skill in the practice of masonry, and a state of society admitting the combination of the powers of many, to produce a common result, not easily reconcilable with the barbarism so unhesitatingly as* cribed to our remote ancestors. A barrow, constructed of small flat stones, laid with great neat-^ Hess, and covered with flags overlapping one another in an imbri- cated manner, was discovered a few years since, in digging for gra- vel for the road upon the west side of the valley of Glensheil. Its height was 5 feet, its width 2 feet 3 inches. It ran in a sloping direction from the bottom to the top of a small hillock of gravel to the length of 26 feet Nothing was found in it that could throw any light on its history. Land^owners. — The whole lands of this parish, as well as of the neighbouring parishes of Kintail and Lochalsh, were posses- sed by the family of Seaforth, until within the present century, when the greater part of them was alienated. The property of Letterfeam, comprehending the portion of the division of that name, lying westward of the church, was purchased in 1834, by the late Lachlan Mackinnon of Corry, for about L. 15000; and that of Glensheil, consisting of the remaining portion of Letterfeam, and the south and west side of the valley of Glensheil, by Charles Lillingston, Esq. of Ipswich, for L. 28,000. The rest of the pa- rish, included between the rivers Sheil and Croe, belongs still to the representative of the family of Seaforth, the Honourable Mrs Stewart Mackenzie. Modem Buildings. — There is no building of a class superior to that of farm-houses in the parish. These, including two recently built on Mrs S. Mackenzie's property, are substantial and com- fortable, though small. There is no mill, those of the neigh- bouring parishes of Kintail and Lochalsh being sufiiciently acces- sible to the inhabitants. The gneiss of the mountains to the eastward, though difficult to dress, is &u£Bciently compact to form excellent building stone. That of Letterfeam is too much intersected with fissures, to be fit for the purpose. An attempt made, a few years ago, to burn the limestone of Letterfeam into lime, was unsuccessful, the lime produced prov- ing too impure to be fit for mortar. But good lime is to be had at Broadford in Skye, at the distance of twenty-four miles^ (roixv 196 R08.S AND CROMAKTY. which it is carried, in boats, to this country. The price there is 6d. per boll. Strathspey timber of natural growth is generally used in the farmers' houses ; but in those lately erected on Mrs S. Macken- zie's property, planted fir from Brahan has been employed. The houses occupied by the letters are of a very inferior de- scription. They are invariably built of dry stone, t. e, without any kind of mortar, roofed with couples of unsquared alder, the lower ends of which are built into the wall, joined together by a few horizontal spars fastened with trenails, on which are laid the small sticks called ^< kebbers," which support the thatch. The latter consists of a layer of thin parings of turf, neatly laid on in the man- ner of slates, and afterwards covered with heather, ferns, or rushes. The interior of the building is divided into three compartments, in one of which the family sit, eat, and sleep ; another contains the potatoes ; and the third, through which the entrance leads, is con- verted, in winter, to the purposes of a byre, containing the cows and stirks. The only apertures, besides the door, are a window, on the prin- cipal apartment, the upper part of which is sometimes, though rarely, glazed, and the lower fitted with wooden shutters ; and a hole, on the roof, for the emission of the smoke. The fire is light- ed on the earthen floor, and supported by a large stone set on end: over it, depends, from the sooty rafters, the wooden crook, by which the pot is suspended. There is a << genealogical account of the Macraes," written by a Mr John Macrae, minister in Dingwall, who died in 1704, a copy of which, in manuscript, is in the possession of Lieut Cok Sir John Macrae of Ardintoul, containing some curious information respecting the early history of the country and its inhabitants. IIL — Population. During the disorderly period of feudal independence that suc- ceeded the downfal of the Norwegian authority, the inhabitants of this parish, in common with those of the Highlands in general, took an active part in the commotions of the times ; and in every contest, in which the Mackenzies of Seaforth were engaged with the neighbouring clans, the Macraes proved themselves faithful and efficient adherents of that family. They were also, under the chief of that name, concerned in the wars of the Stuarts, and fought at Auldearn and Sheriffmuir, as well as at Glensheil, but took no part in the struggle of 1745. The period that preceded and succeeded this last era, so im- GLENSHEIL. 197 portant in the history of the Highlands, seems to have been one, during which the inhabitants of this parish enjoyed a large measure of proqMrity. It is still referred to as a species of golden age ; and, after making every necessary allowance for the fondness with which it is natural that the memory of better times should be cherished under the pressure of present misery, it is likely that the people, daring the period in question, possessed, in a high degree, the sub- stantial comforts of life. Secluded by their inaccessible position from the turmoil of general society, enjoying, to a considerable ex- tent, in virtue of their high character for prowess, security of life and property ; and holding their lands on such terms as admitted of their consuming among themselves a large proportion of the pro- dace ; they passed their days in peace and comfort, alike free from the drudgery of labour and the privations of indigence. The coun- try was, at this period, exclusively stocked with black-cattle. The iesh of these, with the produce of the dairy, in the management of which they were noted for their skill, oat-cake and salmon, constitut- ed their food. They were clothed with kelt or tartan manufactured from the fleeces of a few sheep kept for the purpose, and if their hnuries were not numerous, their wants were few in proportion. About the beginning of the present century, the change of stock from blaekH»ttIe to sheep, which has tended so materially to alter the whole social system of the Highlands, began to be introduced. It eould not have long escaped observation, fhat the mountainous pas- tures of this parish could be employed to greater pro6t in feeding the sheep, to which the most lofty and rugged eminences are ac- cessible, and which can exist during the severity of winter, inde- pendently of artificial provision and shelter, than in rearing the less hardy and active cow. Yet the change was not introduced but with great caution and much reluctance on the part of tenantry. It was apprehended, that though the breeding of sheep was carried on with great advantage in the finer pastures and milder climates of other parts of the country, they could not live among the sterile and stormy mountains of this quarter. A series of unusually severe seasons, which occurred about this period, seemed to justify these fears. It was also, and with more reason dreaded, that a system of husbandry, which could only be carried on to profit on large farms, and which required a mode of management so different from that to which they had been accustomed, as to render their skill in that branch of agri- culture of no avail, might lead to the removal of the ancient occu- pants of the soil, and the introduction of strangei-s, possessed of the 198 ROSS AND CROMARTir. oecessary capital aiid experience. These apprehensions, which re« larded for some time the change of stock, have proved in part to have been unfounded. The success of the first experiments shew- ed at once, that the climate and pasture were perfectly congenial to the sheep. The rearing of black cattle was by degrees abandon- ed, and there is at present no tarm in the parish except two small lotted farms in Letterfearn, of which the staple commodities do not consist of wool and mutton. But though the change now describ- ed produced an amazing increase of rent, the advance, in some instances, of mountain pasture amounting to from 1000 to 6000 per cent in the course of a single generation, the effect upoD the population was not so favourable. The valuable and respect- able class of ^^ substantial tenants" has been entirely swept away ; such of their number as did not emigrate to America, having sunk to the rank of letters or cottars upon the large farms, are crowd- ed along the shores of the loch, dependent for subsistence upon the laborious and uncertain pursuit of the herring fishing, or the, still more fatiguing, precarious, and pernicious practice of smuggling. Nor has the ruin thus brought upon the tenantry been unattend- ed with a corresponding reaction upon the landlords.^ Notwith- standing the incredibly rapid increase of the value of the lands, the expectations of this class, and the additional expenditure to which these led, rose in a progression still more rapid, and the result is ap- parent in the fiict, that the whole lands of the parish were lately under trust or assignation, in consequence of pecuniary incum- brances. Such of the descendants of the original occupants as were possessed of sufficient means have become store*farmers on a large scale, and, with the experience of a few years, have profited so much by the example of such strangers from the south as have set- tled among them, that they now manage their farms with a skill not inferior to that of their instructors. There is no village in the parish, unless the assemblages of houses occupied by the class of letters already mentioned, be considered as such. During Uie last seven years the average number of births has been . JOj^ of marriages, 4^1- The number of unmarried men above 50 years of age is - - 2 of unmanied females above 45 is . - - 8 The average number of children, of all ages, in each family, is - - 3 of persons under 15 years is ... 278 between 15 and 90, - • - 174 .%and50, . . - 162 50 and 70, - - - 78 above 70, - - - 80 Total population, 722 GLENSIIEIL. 199 Amount of population in 1801, - 710 Iftil, . 768 laSI, - 715 Komber of finnilies io the parish, . . . 144 chiefly employed in agricultu-c, - . . ] |6 t'ade, manufactures, and handicraft, 15 There are no insane, fatuous, blind, deaf, or dumb persons in the parish ; and only 2 individuals of infirm mind. There is no register kept of deaths. There is no landed proprie- tor, or other person of independent fortune, resident in the parish. CJutrader of the People^ §-c. — The male inhabitants have long been remarkable for the personal qualities of great size, strength, actmty, and courage ; the females, for beauty and gracefulness ; and both sexes, for an extraordinary taste for the cultivation of poe- tiy and music * The personal qualities of the people are, however, undergoing a change^ corresponding to that v^hich has taken place in their cir- emnstances and habits. They are still indeed a taller race than the inhabitants of the neighbouring parishes ; but even this only re- maining distinction is rapidly disappearing under the combined in- fluenoes of hard labour and scanty aliment. The language generally spoken is Gaelic. Forty years ago, there was little English known ; but that language is now, from the joint effect of schools and increased intercourse with strangers, rapidly gaining ground ; and there is scarcely an individual of the rising generation that does not understand and speak a little of it, the advantage of which is daily experienced. Dancing may be stated as the favourite amusement of the people, within doors. Weddings are still celebrated in a style more expen- nte than the circumstances of the parties can well afford ; and dur- ing the winter holidays, subscription balls are occasionally held. The abominable practice of drinking to excess at funerals is now nearly abolished. The club or shinty used formerly to be much played on * One Duncan Macrae* an inhabitant of the ralley of Glensheil, in the early part of the laftt century, poasessed these qualities in such a degree, as to entitle him to be regarded at a type of the distinguishing characteristics, physical and intellectual, of hk countrymai. A stone of immense size, which he carried to some distance in bis amuy remains upon the farm of Achnangart, as a monument of his extraordinary fltrength. The thieres of Lochaber often experienced his sagacity, activity, and cou- rage, in recoYering his own and his neighbour's cattle ; and several poetical composi- tioiiiy distinguished for pathoa and pious sentiment, prove that this Highland *' Ca- tbcrnachy** in oommon with heroes of greater celebrity, amidst the din of arms, did not neglect the gentler arts of peace. He was killed, with many of the best men of his ■n^«M», at SberifTmuir in 1715, but not, it is said, before he had, with his broad ■wordf done terrible execution among the ranks of the enemy ; and his formidable weapon waa long, and perhaps still is, preserved in the tower of London, and Rhewn aa the ** Orwt Highlander's sword.** 200 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Christmas and New Year's Day, O. S. ; but this pastime is now al- most abandoned to the boys. In their personal habits, the people manifest as great a love for cleanliness as their circumstances admit ; the smallness and smoki- ness of their houses, and their general poverty, being strongly op- posed to the practice of this virtue. The Highland dress is still a good deal worn, on occasions of public meetings, especially by the young men in the higher district of the parish. The ordinary cloth- ing of the males consists of a short coat or jacket and trowsers of kelt, blue, or checquered of different colours, manufactured at home, and dyed with the native substances before enumerated ; a cotton waistcoat, shirt, and neckcloth ; the blue felt bonnet, flat or cock' cdy and shoes and stockings ; the former generally made by each individual for himself, of home-tanned leather, the latter spun and wrought by the females of the family. The females, until about forty years ago, were universally clothed in worsted stuffs, generally dyed blue, with narrow stripes of red, of domestic manufacture, and woven by cx)untry weavers, and are still generally clad in the same material when engaged in 6eld or other labour, but always appear at social meetings and at church dressed in cotton garments, of which last substance the shift is always composed. Caps are seldom worn, except by such women as have had children, or are married, and the straw bonnet is not yet assumed by the native females of the lower class. The ordinary food of this class consists of potatoes ; along with which, they generally have herrings, but sometimes nothing but salt Oat- cake and flesh meat are luxuries which they can but seldom afford ; and butter and cheese, though favourite articles, they can but rarely indulge in. Oatmeal, when it can be procured, is used in the form of cake or gruel, being seldom made into porridge. The universal beverage is cold water. In their eating and drinking, the people are scru- pulously cleanly ; and they will walk a considerable distance to a fountain, rather than quench their thirst at a common brooL Beer is unknown. It cannot be said with truth, that the class of people of which the great majority of the population consists, enjoy the comforts of life in even a moderate degree. Poorly fed, scantily clothed, and miserably lodged, theirs is a life of penury and toil. Exposed to the temptations of idleness without its ease, and to the slavery of labour without its rewards, they drag out a wretched existence, suf-< faring under the continual fear of impending want, and uncheered by GLENSUEIL. 201 any prospect of amendment in their condition. It cannot be ex- pecledy that a people thus situated should feel satisBed with their ocuidition ; but they have learned to submit to their hard fate, and bear their numerous privations with a degree of patience extreme- Iq place of any general statement respecting the character of the people, the following incident may be taken as highly charac- teristic of the peculiar features by which it is distinguished. When the estates of William Earl of Seaforth were forfeited, on account of the share his &mily took in the rebellion of 1715 and 1719, and the noble proprietor was under the necessity of quitting the king- dom, the Commissioners on the forfeited estates appointed a Mr Boss of Feame, as fector under them, to collect the rents. This gentleman, regardless of intimations which he received of the de- termiiiation of the people of the country to resist any attempt to collect their rents, except for the behoof of the person whom they still considered their lawful proprietor, proceeded to the west, ac- companied by his son and some other attendants. On the day that these unwelcome visitants were expected, six men, armed with mus- kets, stationed themselves near the pass by which they were ad- vancing on the road leading from St^athglass. Aware that his life was in danger, Ross had, before his party came to the pass, ex- changed horses with his son, directing the latter to ride some dis- tance in advance. This arrangement proved fatal to the young man, for no sooner had he come within range of the Highlanders' gODS, than, mistaking him for his father, three of them fired, and be fdl dead ; upon witnessing which, the factor and his attendants tnroed their horses and fled. Many subsequent attempts were made to levy the rents; but, though supported by the presence of a military force, they proved equally unsuccessful. While the people were thus resisting the royal authority, they acted a part which showed that their violent conduct was dictated, not by seU fish motives, but by fidelity to their absent chief. They volun- tarily paid their rents to his factor, Mr Murchison of Auchtertyre, ancestor of the present distinguished Secretary of the Geological Society, and that gentleman regularly carried or sent them to France, where the expatriated Earl then resided, for many years, until the forfeited estates were restored. The quaUties of stem determination and disinterested attach- ment exemplified in this transaction, may be said to be still cha- lacterittic of the people of this parish. Recent occurrences, which 202 ROSS AND CUOMARTY. it would be tedious to detail, have shewn, that, with all their pa- tient endurance of hardship, there is a point beyond which oppres- sion becomes dangerous, especially when exercised in a shape cal- culated to irritate the suppressed but not yet extinct feelings of the Highlander. In illustration of the moral character of the people, it may be mentioned, that a slight wooden latch, to ex- clude the cattle, is all the fastening that is deemed necessary for the door of a house in the absence of the family; that instances of theft are very rare ; that no illegitimate child has been born in the parish for the last three years ; that no murder or robbery has been committed in the parish within the memory of man; and that, for the last eighty years,' no native of the parish, or indivi- dual of the name of Macrae, has been convicted of a felony. This freedom from crime may be ascribed in part to the influence of a species of local patriotism, through which each individual member of the community is deterred from the commission of any improper act, by the consideration of the disgrace which might accrue from his misconduct, to his country; but chiefly to the constraining force of a deep though unostentatious feeling of piety and religious principle, with which the minds of the people are imbued. Of the first of these salutary influences, the power is gradually giving way before the increasing intercourse with strangers, and the other, it is to be feared, will prove no more than sufficient to counteract the force of the various demoralizing agen- cies which are now at work among them. Among these, the practice of smuggling holds the first place. Illicit distillation, which was introduced about twenty years since, prevails, especially upon the estate of Letterfearn, to an extent that threatens to prove- destructive to all habits of regular industry, inju- rious to the health, and ruinous to the morals of its victims ; and is likely to continue to produce these distressing results, until the own- ers of the land choose to discountenance it. The consequences of the praiseworthy conduct of some of the neighbouring proprietors prove, that, while the severe, but desultory, and therefore ineffec- tual exertions of the revenue officers have failed of putting down this baneful mischief, a simple prohibition on the part of the land- owners, under the sanction of a threat of removal, will at once ef- fect an object so desirable. Poaching in game and salmon is practised to some extent by young men in the higher parts of the parish, but does not prevail to such a degree as to influence the general habits of the people. GLENSHEIL. 203 IV. — Industry. The Dumber of acres of land which is either constantly or occa- sionally in tillage may be about 280. The number which remains oonstantly in pasture 71,600. The number that might be culti^ vated with advantage does not probably exceed 50. There is no land in a state of undivided common. The number of acres un- der wood cannot be less than 70. The natural woods are not ju- diciously managed. No attention is bestowed on thinning them. The trees are cut, before they attain to a proper size, and they are much injured by breaking off the branches for fuel, a practice which the scarcity of that article renders common, and which occa- sions the early decay of the trees from the effects of the wet they receive by the wounds thus made. Bent tfLantL — The average rent of arable land, taking that of the large farms at L. 1, and of the lots at L. 2 per acre, may be stated at L. 1, 10s. The average rent of pasture is reckoned at L. 2, 10s. for each cow, including provender for winter, and the rearing of a calf till he is a year old, or L. 1, 10s. for summer grass, 15s. for wintering, and 5s. for the calf; 10s. is the usual charge for summer pasturing young cattle. The average rent paid for a ewe of the cross or Cheviot breeds is 2s. 6d., of the black-faced breed 2s., both being reckoned from the age of seven months. Wages. — Farm-servants are usually hired for the year; males at a wage of from L.7 to L. 8; females L.2, lOs., and fed in the bouse. Shepherds receive pasturage for 2 cows, and from 40 to 60 sheep, 6 bolls of oatmeal, and a piece of land for potatoes. Day-labourers, ls.6d. per day without victuals; dry-stone masons, 28. ; carpenters, 2s. 6d. per day. Prices. — The average price of Cheviot wool for the last seven years has been 9d. per pound smeared, or unsmeared, lid.; cross breed wool, 6^, or unsmeared 8^d. ; black-faced, 5d., or un- smeared, 6d. per lb. ; of cheese, 7s. 6d. per stone of 24 lb. ; salt- butter, 16s. per do.; oatmeal, 18s. per boll of 140 lbs. ; potatoes, 28. 6d* per barrel of 32 gallons; oats, 10s. per do. ; barley, 14s. per do. Milk cows sell for about L. 7 ; horses for L. 12 : Cheviot sheep with lambs, or wedders, average L. 1 ; cross breed, ,15s. black-faced, 12s. ; lambs of these several kinds, 7s. 6d., 6s., and 4a. 6d. Of imported commodities, English coals are purchased at 18b., Scotch at 14s. Foreign timber, 2s. 6d. per foot; Strathspey do. 28. 3d. ; planted fir. Is. 6d. ; oak 2s. 6d. alder 8d. ; ash Is. lOd. Lime firom Broadford, 9d. per boll. 204 ROSS AND CROMARTY. The rates of niecbanical work may be stated as follows : Mason- work, 9d. per yard ; plaster-work, 2d. per do. ; weaving from 4d. to 7d. per do. ; netting, 6d. per pound ; spinning, 2^d. per do. ; smith-work from 6d. to 9d. per lb., or 2d. per do., not including the iron ; sawing 3d. per 100 feet, or ^. per stave. A wooden plough, mounted, can be purchased for L. 2, 15. An iron one for • L. 3, 10s. ; a cart for L. 5, a boat for L. 6. A barrel of nets for L. 4; ropes for do. Ids. ; a pair of oars, 7s., making do. 28. Live Stock, — Of the several breeds of sheep above*mentioned, the four farms into which Mrs Stewart Mackenzie's property is di- vided, are stocked with the black-faced, as is also the farm of Ardin- toul, in Letterfearn, the Cheviot breed having been tried on the latter, and found not to thrive. A good deal of care has been be- stowed on the improvement of this kind of stock ; but there is room for further exertions. ^ The property of Mr Lillingston is partly stocked with Cheviot, but chiefly with the produce of the black- faced ewe and the Cheviot ram. Much attention is bestowed up- on the improvement of this stock. There does not seem to be any speciality in the mode of management pursued, but such as results from. the peculiarity of the climate and pasture. The loftiness of the mountains and the humidity of the climate render it indispensable to smear the whole flocks at the beginning of each winter. Tar and butter, or oil, are the materials used for this purpose. Any experiments that have hitherto been tried with other substances, have entirely failed. The casualties among the flocks are, on account of the ruggedness of the surface, the liability of the upland pastures to snowstorms, the diflSculty of tending the sheep, and the quantity of vermin which the cairns and precipices harbour, necessarily very numerous. Much loss arising from the cause last mentioned would be prevented, if the fox-hunters possessed the art of snaring and poisoning the de- structive animals ; and also if the people were prevented from in- dulging their excessive fondness for keeping multitudes of useless dogs, which, being half-starved at home, prey to a mischievous ex- tent upon the sheep and lambs. The disease called brazy is the source of serious losses, in the early part of the winter, and great numbers of lambs are often destroyed by stormy weather occurring at the time of their birth, especially among those of the Cheviot and cross breeds. During the last two springs the loss of sheep and lambs had been very great, in consequence of the unusual severity of these seasons. The breeds of black-cattle are the Ayrshire and the Highland. GLKNSHEIL. 205 A few of the former are kept by the farmers for their milk ; but being less saleable, and requiring more pasture and provender than the natife kind, they are not in general favour. The indigenous breed have long been celebrated for their symmetry and hardiness. A good many are still kept by the farmers on their low-lying lands; they are a source of considerable profit ; but there is not much attention bestowed on the preservation or improvement of the breed. HuAandry. — The tillage of the land is chiefly in the hands of the lotters and cottars. Each lot consists of from one to two acres of banging ground, a great proportion of which is generally rock or bogs. A part of this patch is always planted with potatoes, and the rest sown with barley or oats. The manure used for potatoes is always sea-ware, the dung being reserved for the barley. The tillage is chiefly accomplished with the ^* crooked spade/' an imple- ment well adapted for the cultivation of steep and stoney land. The manure is generally carried out, in creels on the back of a horse. On the laige farms, implements of improved construction are used, fii. ploughs, carts, and harrows. The great obstacles to improve- ment in this branch of husbandry, are the wetness of the climate, the want of leases, and of encouragement on the part of the pro- prietors. The lotters holding their lands only from year to year, ha? ing no meliorations allowed them, and having learnt by expe- rience that to improve their houses or lots, instead of producing any permanent advantage to themselves, is only holding out an in- ducement to others to offer a few shillings of additional rent, and to deprive them of the fruit of their labour, are discouraged from attempting improvements which would add materially to their com- forts. On the large farms, the leases are also shorter than they ought to be, to encourage the improvement of stock. This is in part occasioned by the late violent fluctuations in the value of farm pro- duce, by which tenants are deterred from coming under permanent engagements, which a &11 of prices might disable them from ful- fiUing« and in part also, by the present unsettled state of the owner- ship of the lands. Herring Fishery. — The principal fishery is that of the herring. About twenty years since, the quantities of this fish caught in the loch were very considerable. Six and eight barrels in a night were then no uncommon capture for a boat equipped with four barrels of nets (of 36 fathoms length by 5 deep) ; but, of late years, the fishery has fallen off* very much, — a single barrel of fish being now considered an excellent night's fishing. During the preseut ^^<. 206 ROSS AND CROMARTY. son the fishing has been good. The boats, which are manned with from two to four men each, are generally about 16 feet keel, and rigged with a single lug-sail. The nets are restricted by law to the width of a square inch in the mesh, — an absurd regulation, not warranted by any experience of its utility, and most glaringly par- tial in its operation ; for while it prevents the capture of fish of a serviceable size, the catching of foul fish, u e. of herrings full of milt and roe, is permitted without restriction ; and as the great quantities of fish taken on the east coast of Scotland are almost all in this condition, it is no extravagant assertion to say, that more injury is done to the breed of herring by one night's fishing there, than by the capture of all small herrings that have been killed on the west coast for a hundred years. The fish is either cured by the people themselves, or sold fresh to purchasers from the Clyde. The price of the cured fish per barrel is generally about L. 1, 4s. ; of the cran of the fresh fish, (a measure which it is computed will fill a packed barrel,) 16s. The chief obstacles to a more successfiil prosecution of this branch of industry are the smallness of the boats, occasioned by the want of capital, which prevents the fishermen from following the fish from loch to loch, and the want of timber of good quality at a moderate price. Salmon Fishery. — There is a salmon fishery carried on at each of the rivers flowing into the loch, which together pay a rent of L. 60. That of the Sheil belongs exclusively to the estate of Glen- sheil; the fishing of the Croe is divided between Mrs S. Macken- zie, and Thomas Mackenzie, Esq. of Applecross, the proprietor of the opposite lands. These fishings, in favourable seasons, are ex- tremely productive for the size of the rivers ; but these are of very uncertain occurrence, and the fishings lie under the permanent disadvantages of distance from market, lateness of productiveness, and expensiveness of management. The fish are chiefly caught with the steU-neL Stake-nets have been tried, but nearly abandon- ed on account of their expensiveness. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, may be stated as under : Produce of all kinds of grain, - L. 240 4390 bar. potatoes, &c.at 2s. 6d. 575 180 cows at L. 4, - 720 21380 sheep at 4s. . - 427B woods, • - 25 salmon fishery, - 100 140 bar. herring, at 18s. - 126 Value of total yearly produce, - L. 6062 GLENSHEIL. 207 The gross rental of the parish is L. 2600. There are no manufactures of any kind, except those domestic ones above-mentioned. There are no vessels of any burden belong- ing to the parish, but there is a frequent resort of vessels from the south, by which wool and herrings are exported, and smearing ma- terials, meal, salt, coals, iron, groceries, and cloths are imported. The freight of wool to Liverpool is from 4d. to 6d. per 24 lbs. ; of goods from thence Ss. the barrel bulk. V. — Parochial Economy. Mtwu of Communicatiofi. — The nearest market town is Inver- ness, which is distant from the inhabited portion of the parish about 60 miles. With this town, there is a communication by means of a parliamentary road constructed in 1815, through the valley of Glensheil to Glenmoristone. It runs for 18 miles through the parish, sending off a branch at Sheilhouse, where the river Sheil enters the sea, westward to Glenelg and Skye, and another north- ward to Kin tail and Lochalsh.* At Sheilhouse, there is a sub-post- oflBce connected with the post-office at Lochalsh, between which a fiwt post passes three times in the week. No public carriage runs on this road, but there is a constant resort of carriers to Inverness. There are two inns, one at Sheilhouse, and the other at Cluonie, twelve miles distant to the south-east. This road, for some years after its construction, formed the principal communication between Inverness and Skye ; but its utility in this respect has been in a great measure superseded by the steam-vessels which now ply week- ly between that island and the Clyde. There is no road in Letter- feam, where one is much required. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the eastern part of Letterfearn, and is distant about eight miles from the western extremity of the parish. Its situation, though equally contiguous to both the densely inhabited parts of the parish, viz. the middle of Letterfearn and the shores at the head of the loch, is not convenient for either, being about two miles and a-half dis- tant from the centre of each. It was built in 1758, being the first church that was erected in this parish, and is much decayed in the * Both the roadi here mentioned as leading from Sheilhouse to Skye are too steep hr wheel-earriagesy each of them being carried over a hill about 1000 feet high. A road .perfectly level might be constructed along the shore of Letterfearn, to join the Kyle Akin road to Broadford, near the former village. The distance and expense of cun- •tmetioo would, it is believed, be less than either of the present roads. Or a road ftom Sheilhouse to Ob-Inag might communicate with the Lochalsh road at Totag ftny* which would be quite level, easy of construction, and save four miles of distance ; at the same time that it would greatly accommodate the inhabitants of the parish. 208 ROSS AND CROMARTY. roof. It affords accommodation for about 300 sitters. The seats were originally put up by the parishioners, but have been kept in repair by the heritors. No seat rents are exacted. The manse, which was built in 1834, is a commodious and sub- stantial building. The glebe is an arable one of 4 acres, with pasture for two cows and a horse, of about 20 acres in extent. Its yearly value is about L. 15. The stipend paid by the heritors is L. 132, 17s., — the deficiency required to raise it to L. 150 being paid by Government. There is no other church or chapel, nor any missionary or cate- chist in the parish. The whole inhabitants belong to the Esta- blished Church, with the exception of a few shepherds from the south of Scotland, who are seceders, and about 30 Roman Ca- tholics. The latter attend cha^iel at Dornie, in the parish of Kin- taiV, where there is a priest stationed. Divine worship is general- ly well attended. The average number of communicants is 72. Education. — There is a parochial school, situated at Letterfeam, in which Gaelic and English reading, writing, arithmetic and La- tin, are taught The salary of the schoolmaster is L. 28 per an* num ; the school fees may amount to L. 2 more. The expense of education would not exceed 7s. per annum even if the fees were rigorously exacted, which is by no means the case. The number of young persons, between six and fifteen years, who cannot read or write, is 46. The people are generally much alive to the benefits of education. The whole children of the parish are not near enough to attend the school now mentioned. The parochial teacher is wretchedly ac- commodated. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving aid from the poor funds is 17, to each of whom the ave- rage sum allotted is 6s. per annum. There is no mode practised for raising the money thus expended, except the collections at the church door, which amount to about L. 3 annually, the interest of a fund of L. 70, and the fines imposed by the kirk-session on delin- quents. The precentor's, session-clerk's, and beadle's salaries^ amount to L. 2, 10s. The poor do not often apply for parochial relief, except in cases of great necessity ; but in such cases they do not consider it as de- grading to apply for aid. Fairs. — The only fairs held in the parish are for the sale of black cattle, and occur at Whitsunday, July, and September. These GLENSIIEIL. 209 always take place on a Monday. The cattle are purchased by drovers from the south of Scotland, or from the neighbouring pa- rishes. The markets are held at Sheilhou.se. Although a good deal of whisky is drunk on these occasions, there is not much drunkenness, and a fight rarely occurs. The j)ractice of exposing pedlar's wares at these meetings, which has been lately introdu- ced, threatens, by attracting young females to them, to do injury to their morals. Inns, — Besides the inns above-mentioned, some of the poorer inhabitants are in the practice of retailing spirits clandestinely, and, notwithstanding every endeavour to discourage it, this nuisance prevails to a pernicious extent. FueL — The fuel chiefly used is peat« This is manufactured in the elevated situations, where alone moss occurs, and the carriage of it is a very laborious service, as it can only be transported in creels, sometimes on the backs of horses, but more frequently on those of men and even women. In the houses of the farmers, besides peats for the kitchen, some tons of coals are always procured for the other apartments. The firing required for a family of this class cannot be estimated at less than from L. 1 5 to L. 20 per annum. Miscellaneous Observations. The most striking variations betwixt the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, consist in the introduction of the sheep husbandry, and of the lotting system. The moral and physical cfi'ects of these changes have been already noticed. A less equivocal benefit has been derived from the opening of the communication to the east- ward, and the more extensive diiVusion of education. In all thefe respects, however, there is room for much improve- ment. The district of Letterfearn sufl'ers much from the want of a road, the inhabitants being thereby in great measure deprived of the advantage which those of the eastern portion of the parish derive from the communication with Inverness, and subjected to much inconvenience otherwise. They complain, and not without reason, that though they have been taxed with road-money like the people of other pstrts of the country, their district has not shared in the benefit of its outlay. Both in attending the church and the school, the want of a road is much felt. Another evil demanding attention is the great and increasing iK)vcrty of tho ROSS AND CROMARTY. C> 210 ROSS AND CROMARTY. lower class of the people, and its accompaniments, — the insufficient food, bad houses, and the baneful practice of illicit distillation. The most obvious cure for this unhappy state of things would be to in- crease the size of the lots ; to proportion the rents to the produce of the land ; to grant leases to the more deserving of the people, and to assist the others to leave the country. The present wretched po- verty-stricken population would thus be encouraged to build better houses, and cultivate their lands to better purpose, and enabled to provide themselves with such boats and tackle as should put it in their power to prosecute the herring fishery with a better prospect of success than at present To these must be added, as a matter involving the moral as well as the physical welfare of the people, the providing greater facilities and more efficient means of educa- tion than at present exist. Two schools are indispensable, one of them situated at Letterfearn, and the other at the head of the loch, for the latter of which a permanent endowment for a teacher capable of teaching the ordinary branches of education, would be required. There is also need of some species of local police, to settle the disputes, and suppress the minor offences, which the presence of a resident magistracy would tend much to prevent. November 1836. PARISH OF DINGWALL.* PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. HECTOR BETHUNE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The parish of Dingwall, consisting of the royal burgh of that name, with an inconsiderable tract of the surrounding country, is situated at the western extremity of the Frith of Cromarty. Name, — A diversity of opinion exists as to the origin of the name " Dingwall." The accomplished author of the former Statistical Ac- count derives it from ^^Digma Vallis "vfords indicativeof the richness and fertility of the low grounds, which constitute a great part of the parish. Others, with perhaps greater probability, consider it, like that of several of the towns on this coast, of Scandinavian origin, and refer it to a word expressive of its being the seat of justice. It is certainly not Celtic, as the Highlanders have not yet become * Drawn lip by Angus Bethune, Esq. DINGWALL. 211 familiarized to it, but call the place Innerfeoran (InverpefTery,) marking its situation with regard to the small stream which gives its name to the well-known valley of Strathpefler. JSxtentjbouHdaries. — The parish occupies an extent of 10§ square miles. It forms nearly an oblong ; its northern extremity resting on the baseof Ben Wyvis, whence, stretching in a direction almost south, it descends the fertile slope which forms the northern boundary of Strathpeffer, and crossing that valley where it opens into a rich flat, which extends along the shore to the end of the frith, — on which the town is built, and through which the stream called the Peffery winds its way to the sea, it cuts off a portion of the abrupt rising' ground which separates Strathpeffer on the south from the , valley of the Conan, and reaches that river at its junction with the frith. It is bounded on the north by Ben Wyvis ; on the east by the parish of Kilteam ; on the west and south-west by that of Fod- derty ; and on the south and south-east, by the sea, which, however, at ebb-tide recedes about three miles, leaving exposed a flat slimy strand, which detracts considerably from the interest with which the surrounding scenery is generally regarded. Topographical appearances, — The general aspect of the parish is exceedingly beautiful. The character of the sruface, — diversified by hill and valley; the appearance of high culture which it presents ; the abfindance and luxuriance of the wood with which it is everywhere clothed ; and the frith, which at flood-tide appears a beautiful sheet of water completely enclosed by land, stretching eastward for about fourteen miles; together with the rugged outline of the mountains in the back-ground— combine in producing an effect which excites the admiration of strangers. The road from Inverness enters the pa- rish at the east end of the village of Maryburgh, — about a mile and three-fourths from the town. From this it passes eastward along the southern slope of the ridge, which runs between the town and the Conan. This ridge is crested by plantations of fir, its acclivity being lined out into fields intersected by hedge-rows with trees. On approaching the town it terminates abruptly, forming a steep bank called the green hill, which is covered by a planta- tion of hard wood. Along the base of this, the road runs, and enters the town flanked by a row of fine old trees. With the ex- ception of its situation, which is beautiful, and its rows of tall pop- lar trees, which give it rather an uncommon air, the town itself presents little of interest It consists of a main street, about half a mile long, running nearly from east to west. From this a num- 212 ROSS AND CROMARTY. ber of small streets and lanes strike off at right angles, — ^an ar- rangement, which, in many instances, has the effect of presenting the gables of the houses to the street The houses are in gene- ral of two stories high. Both the church and the jail have steeples. The flat on which the town stands, which is scarcely four feet above the extreme flood- mark, is about half a mile wide. To the west of the town, however, it contracts to about half this width, — the southern ridge of Strathpeffer falling back at this point, and forming the recess occupied by the town. To the north of the town stands the hill of Tulloch, — a continuation of the northern ridge of Strathpeffer, which rises to the height of about 800 feet Its acclivity presents an aspect of uncommon luxuriance. It is occupied by several farms, which are ornament- , ed by rows of 6ne old trees; and by the beautiful grounds attach- ed to Tulloch Castle, which ^stands midway, about a mile from the town, ** Embosomed deep in tufted trees.** The summit of the hill is covered with wood, which is disposed in masses. Behind this hill, and distant about six miles, Ls seen Ben Wyvis, whose massy form affords a complete shelter from the north and north-west. Meteorology. — The following table shows the monthly and annual mean pressure and temperature of the atmosphere in this parish, as ascertained by observations carefully made twice each day for the last five years. Years. January. February. March. April. May. Bar. Ther. Bar. Ther. Bar. Tner. Bar. Ther. Bar. Ther. 1831, 1832, 1833, 1834, 1835, 29.803 29.740 30.120 29.350 29.79.-. 35.80 40.00 30.00 41.40 37.:% 29.61 29.84 29.24fi 29.763 29.351 39.10 41.91 36.53 42.60 39.30 29.658 29.614 29.915 29.860 29.725 43.90 43.15 39.25 43.40 41.05 29.72:' 29.965 29.61li 30.160 30.000 47.8O 47.95 45.59 47.98 45.29 29.945 29.903 29.950 29.890 29.750 67.30 50.29 57.50 56.00 51.65 Years. June. July. August. September. Bar. Ther. Bar. Ther. Bar. 1 Ther. Bar. Ther. 1830, 29.940 6.3.80 29. 740 j 56.00 29.480 54.47 1831, 29.845 60.50 29.7:10 62.20 29.834 . 63.60 29.794 56.38 1832,» 29.806 56.96 .30.010 59.40 29.750 60.25 29.895 66.23 1833, 29.610 57.80 29.910 62.00 29.865 58.60 29.785 67.50 1834, 29.775 58.60 m. 120 64.15 29.765 60.21 29.960 65.B6 1835, 1 29.957 57.60 29.840 59.85 29.892 68.58 29.470 62.89 In August and Siptember of thU year Dingwall was visited with cholera. DINGWALL. 213 Yean. October. November. December. j.\leaui uf yeurs. Bar. Ther. Bar. Ther. Bar. Ther. Bar. Ther. 1830, 1831, 1832, 1833, 1834, 1835, 30.000 29.499 20.786 29.830 29.770 29.590 51.12 53.31 49.95 52.57 48.87 44.95 29.480 29.604 29.630 29.530 29.775 29.740 42.95 39.517 39.50 44.50 43.10 41.33 20.567 29.497 29.630 29.240 30.080 29.980 6. 2. :t8. 40. .. ■■3.'- 36.27 29.701 29.712 29.7% 29.703 20.855 29.757 50.80 49.657 48.570 48.524 50.494 47.160 The prevailing winds in this parish are the westerly and south- westerly, which blow during a great part of the year. From this quarter also we have our most boisterous and stormy weather. Our easterly winds are generally laden with fogs and damps from the Gremian Ocean, and are frequently accompanied with rain. The coldest wind is from the north-west. The climate here is upon the whole pretty good. It is, how- ever, exceedingly variable, and subject to frequent showers, owing to the vicinity of Ben Wjvis, about which the clouds congregate, and which on this account serves the purpose of a natural barome- ter, from the position of the clouds with regard to which, changes can be predicted with tolerable accuracy. From the sheltered si- tuation of Dingwall, being almost surrounded by hills, it suffers little from cold, the winters being remarkably mild. But from its low situation, the nature of the soil, and its vicinity to the sea, it suffers considerably from damp, more so than the quantity of rain which falls (as showed by the following table of observations for the last five years) would indicate. 1830. 1831. i83'2. 1833. 18;^. • Ynra. iVf nan i\€ Inches. Inches Inches. Inches. I-.n . Inches months. January, 1.09 0.95 0.41 3.53 3.21 1.83 February, 2.33 1.07 2.26 2.55 4.17 !:.47 'March, 3.71 3.56 0.43 4.33 2.6U 2.92 April, 1.75 1.52 1.06 0.53 3.12 1.59 May, 2.13 1.56 1.12 1.20 2.24 1.65 June, 1.37 3.38 2.49 3.26 1.22 2.:i5 July, 1.52 3.31 3.57 2.15 2.63 August, 1.40 1.33 1.46 1.43 1.40 September, 1.80 2.45 0.74 2.71 3.94 2.32 October, 1.20 3.02 3.24 1.23 3.96 2.48 2.52 NoYember, 4.02 4.10 1.34 3.82 5.37 2.17 3.47 December, 1.87 3.19 3.36 5.64 2.03 2.16 3.04 Yearly mean 2.36 2.29 2.24 2.98 2.07 2.57 The climate, although variable, is decidedly salubrious. The parish is occasionally visited, in common with the district around, by the usual epidemics of the country, — small-pox and measles, typhus and scarlet fever, &c. ; but these occat^ions are by no means il4 ROSS AND CROMARTY. ftv>)uenl, nor are those diseases distinguished here by any particu- Ur virulence. The only complaint peculiar to this parish and dis- trict is not a little singular, and is deserving of notice, on account of the mode of cure, which is illustrative of the simplicity of the people, and worthy of being classed with the celebrated system which rendered Mesmer and Deslon so famous at Paris towards the close of last century. This notable disease, which is confined exclusive- ly to the lower orders, among whom it is of frequent occurrence, b supposed to consist in such a derangement of the bones of the chest, as impedes the action of the vital organs, accompanied by a variety of symptoms, such as slight pains about the breast and shoulders, difficulty of respiration, disinclination to labour, &c (probably caused by a slight rlieumatic affection.) When any of these is felt, the person affected has immediate recourse to a man in the neighbourhood, distinguished for his skill in curing the dis- order, who, on seating the patient, proceeds to draw some hiero* glyphical figures on the ground, and to mutter a spell, in the course of which the fingers are carefully counted over, and the parts af- fected gently pressed and rubbed, — and thus, on receiving a few shillings for his trouble, generally succeeds in dislodging a disor- der whose seat is chiefly the imagination. Hydrography. — A considerable part of the parish to the south and east is washed by the Cromarty Frith, which, from this quar- ter, presents the appearance of a long narrow inland lake, its open- ing to the ocean being concealed by an intervening headland. The tide formerly advanced quite close to the town, but a canal, which was cut some years ago, has served the additional purpose of an embankment, by means of which a good deal of wet carse land, over which the sea formerly flowed, has been converted into fields. Ow- ing to the distance to which the tide recedes at ebb, the muddy na- ture of the bottom, and the freshness of the water from the influx of the Ck)nan, and the other streams which discharge themselves into it here, the frith in this parish is very unproductive, — affording no fish, with the exception of a few flounders and some salmon, the latter of which are taken in yairs during the summer months. Perennial springs of clear wholesome water abound throughout the parish, from one or two of which, in the neighbourhood, a plentiful supply has lately been introduced into the town. Along the south side of the hill to the north of the town, there are mine- ral springs strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen, issu- ing from a dark-looking schistose rock, one of which, at a place DINGWALL. 215 4»dled Dryine, is nearly as powerful, and contains the same ingre- dients, as the celebrated StrathpeflFer spa. There is also within the town a strong chalybeate spring, which has lately attracted some attention as a powerful tonic It rises from a depth of about 20 feet below the sur&ce, and was discovered by sinking a pump-well through the clay strata upon which the town is built There are no lakes, properly speaking, within this parish, but a small isolated and now uninhabited district of it is situated on the border of a lake called Ousie, about two miles to the south-west of the town. It is nearly a square mile in extent, studded all over with richly wooded islets, which, with the bold outline of the blue hills around, give it rather an interesting appearance. It is, in other respects, only remarkable as the haunt of various aquatic birds, which resort to it for the purpose of breeding. The river Conan, which bounds this parish to the south, is a considerable stream. It has been estimated to discharge 70,000 cubic feet per minute. Its course, which is from west to east, is about thirty-five miles, from its source in one of about a dozen mountain lakes which feed it, to its debouchement into the Cro- marty Frith. The Conan has few peculiarities. It is one of the Scotch rivers which furnish peark. They are obtained in consi- derable quantity, and often of remarkable beauty, from the river- mussel ( MyaMargaritifera^ Lin.) Itproduces abundance of salmon, trout, &C. and derives its name from the number of otters that for- merly infested it, but which have now become comparatively rare. Geology. — The prevailing rock in this parish is sandstone, in- termixed with conglomerate, being a part of the mass of old red sandstone and- conglomerate which traverses this county from the Sutherland coast in a south-westerly direction, till it reaches the borders of Inverness-shire. This rock, which is stra- tified, dipping towards the south, and apparently resting conforma- bly on the gneiss and mica-slate of Ben Wyvis, pa^^ses occasionally, particularly in this and the neighbouring parish of Fodderty, into a dark-coloured calcareous schist, foliated and impregnated with bi- tuminous matter, producing the sulphureous mineral springs men- tioned. As it approaches its junction with this latter rock, the sandstone loses its characteristic colour, and becomes of a pale bluish gray, and, being of a smooth friable texture, is well adapted for the purposes of masonry. Over this, there is generally a pretty thick deposit of a species of coarse, gravelly, light-coloured clay, containing boulders of granite, sienite and gneiss, occasionally 216 BOSS AND CROMARTV. of considerable size ; and this is separated from the black vegeta- ble mould by a layer of yellow clay. The low flat, however, which forms the bottom of the valley, and which bears evident marks of having at some period been a part of the bed of the frith, con- sists of successive strata of blue clay, varying in thickness, and alter- nating with sand or gravel containing quantities of sea shells. In this clay, whilst cutting a water-run some years ago, in the bottom of the strath within this parish, the vertebrae of a whale were found not far from the surface, in high preservation. And this succes- sion continues to the depth of about twenty-five feet, — ^beyond which, the writer is not aware of its having been penetrated. The general character of the soil in this parish is clayey, con- taining a greater or less admixture of vegetable matter. In the lower part, particularly in the neighbourhood of the town, it con- sists of a bed of black vegetable mould, varying in depth from one foot to two and a^half feet Throughout the whole parish, it is remarkably fertile, and, being generally in a high state of cul- tivation, yields luxuriant crops. It is especially adapted, with the aid of lime, for the growth of wheat, affording in favourable sea- sons grain of this description, not inferoir to the finest por- duction of the Lothians. From the richness of the soil, however, the nature of the subsoil, which renders it exceedingly retentive of moisture, and from the extreme flatness which makes drainage difficult, if not in some cases impracticable, farming in the low part of the parish is somewhat precarious, — a wet season always proving uncommonly injurious, not only in retarding farming operatiq|[is in spring and autumn, but in spoiling the grain, by causing the crops to lodge from over-luxuriance. Botany. — Of the plants most peculiarly attached to the soil perhaps the most characteristic is the poplar tree, which here rears its slender form to an unusual height. Numbers of these grow in the neigh- bourhood of the town, whose tall pyramidal shapes, disposed in rows, have an uncommonly picturesque effect It would appear that in former times (as it is at the present day) Dingwall was famous for the growth of cabbages ! as it was, and even is still known by the so- briquet Bailie a Chaille, (kail-town,) a title which was no doubt originally intended, by their wild and warlike neighbours, to con- vey a sarcasm on the effeminacy of the worthy burghers. Zoology, — The animals found in this parish, are such, generally, as are common to it with most parts of the Highlands. In addi- tion tp the usual domestic quadrupeds, we have, either as perma- DINGWALL. 217 nent inhabitants, or occasional visitants, the roe^deer, (the red- deer is now rarely seen in the district,) the rabbit, the common hare, the mountain hare (Lepus variabilis^) the weasel, the ermine, the black, the brown, and the water rats, the shrew, the mole, the fox, the otter, and the seal. The wild-cat, the polecat, and the badger, which were formerly common, are now almost extinct in the district From the sheltered situation of this parish, and the abundance of wood with which it is covered, it is a favourite resort of the feathered tribes, — few places of an equal extent affording so great a variety. There is abundance of game, consisting of partridges, grouse, black-game, and pheasants. These hist have been only lately introduced, but have multiplied so amazingly fast as to have become, to the no small annoyance of the farmer, almost as nume- rous as partridges. Along with these the following are either sta- tionary residents, or periodibal or occasional visitors. The Eagle, (common.) Kite, Falco Milvus Peregrine falcon, peregrinus Sparrowhawk, Nisus Kestril, Tinnunculus Merling, JEsaion Hen-barrier, cyaneus Owl, barn, Strix fiammva long-eared, otus tawny, stridula Common thrush. Turd us musicus Blackbird, Meruia Redwing, ili.icus Fieldfiire, pilaris Rose-coloured ousel, (rare) rosvus, Lin. Water ousul, Cinclus aquaticus Kingfisher, (rare) Chatterer, (rare) Alcedo iftpida Ampelis giftrulus Redbreast, Silvia rubecula Redstart, • • Phcenicurus, T^th. Whinchat, rubctra, Lath. Stonechat, rubicula, Latli. Hedge sparrow, moduliris. Lath. Wren, Troglodytes, Lath. Reed wren. arundinacca Willow wren. trochilus Wheatcar, Saxicola (Knanthc, Lath. White wagtail. MotacUla allw, Lin. Grey wagtail. boarula, Lin. Titmouse, great, Parus major, Lin. blue. coTuleus longtailed. cuudatus Skylark, Alauda arvcnsis Titlark, pratensis Bullfinch, Loiiia Pyrrhula, Lin. CrosKbill, curvirostra Greenfinch, chloris, Lin. Bunting, common. Embcriza miliaria reed, schoeniculus 218 KOSS AND CROMARTY. Bunting, yellow, Goldfinch, Chaffinch, Siskin, Linnet, common, mountain or twite, rose. House-sparrow, Swallow, house, Martin, common, sand. Swift, • • . Cuckoo, Woodcock, Snipe, • • Land-rail, Water-rail, Gallinule, common. Crow, carrion, hooded, • • Rook, Jackdaw, Magpie, Lapwing, . * Plover, golden, • ringed, • Dotterel, . . • Along the shore are found, The Heron, . Sandpiper, • • Green sandpiper. Curlew, Bernacle, Mallard, Widgeon, . Teal, . ^ . . Golden-eye, Goosander, Sea pie, . Gull, common, herring, blackheaded. Common TerR, Shag, Emberiza citronella Fringilla carduelis ccelebs spinus, Lin. cannabina montium, Lin* linaria domestlcus Hirundo nistica urbica riparia A pus Cuculus canorus Soolopax rusticola gallinago Rail us crez, Lin. aquaticus, Gallinula Chloropus Corvus Corone Comix frugilegus Monedula Pica Tringa vanella Charadrius pluvialis hiaticula morinellus Ardea Major Totanus h3rpoleucos ochropus Numenius Arquata Anas erythropus, boschas Penelope crecca clangula Mergus merganser Hsmatopus ostralegus Larus canus argenteus ridibundus Sterna hirundo Pelecanus graculus. The fishes found in this parish are chiefly those of the salmon tribe, the frith (as has been observed) aflbrding no sea-fishing. The Conan produces abundance of salmon of excellent quality. They begin to ascend the river to their spawning ground, about the middle of January; but comparatively few are taken be- fore the end of March or beginning of April, the Conan being later than some of the northern rivers. About the middle of June, the grilse make their appearance, and proceed up the ri- ver in great numbers, upwards of 100 of them having repeatedly been taken at one sweep of the net They continue to tra^ vel upwards until towards the end of August or middle of Sep- tember, and return to the sea in February or March. There is 3 DINGWALL. 219 abundance of trout of various kinds. The salmon-trout appears about the beginning of June, and is taken in considerable quanti- ties throughout that and most of the succeeding months. Towards the end of July, thewhitling (known here by the name of finnock,) enters the river in great numbers, and remains throughout the win- ter, and part of spring, affording excellent sport to the angler. The Conan also produces pike and eels, the latter of which com- mence their great annual migration from the sea early in June. IL — Civil History. Burgh* — The burgh of Dingwall isofconsiderableantiquity ; but,as there are no annals existing of its early history, — the only records now extant commencing at a period comparatively recent, we are left almost entirely to conjecture as to its origin and early condi- tion. It was probably originally, as its name would seem to indi- cate, a Danish settlement, which afterwards became one of the royal fortifications, which were erected along the coast for the purpose of defending the country against the incursions of that people. The charter of its erection into a Royal Burgh was granted in 12*27, by Alexander 1 1., and dated 6th February, and Idth of his reign. By this he gave it title to ** omnes libertates et liberas consuetudines quas burgenses nostri de Inverness et in eo manentes habent" This was subsequently confirmed and cm- bodied in a charter of James IV., dated 12th February 1497, and again ratified by a charter of James VL, dated 9th February 1587. Dingwall would seem, in the course of its history, to have suf- fered various changes of fortune, and to have passed through dif- ferent stages of prosperity and decline. Several circumstances would seem to indicate that the town was once much more extensive than it is at present Pavements have been dug up, and traces of building discovered running in a south-easterly direction, and consi- derably beyond the present limits of the town. Being the principal residence of the powerful Earls of Ross, who acted so conspicu- ous a part in the early history of Scotland, and doubtless depend- ing much on their protection and bounty, it is natural to suppose that it must have participated to a certain degree in the fortunes of that family. Accordingly, we find, that on the extinction of the earldom by forfeiture in 1476, the affairs of the burgh suffered a rapid decline, from which it did not for a long time recover, — the inhabitants loudly complaining that their trade had almost totally disappeared, not only from a want of the requisite capital for fo- 220 ROSS AND CROMARTY. reign commerce, but because their inland traffic was intercepted on all sides by the burghs of barony which were springing up around, under the patronage of the lesser proprietors, who were now rising in importance. The burgh at one time possessed a considerable extent of pro- perty, but through the rapacity or mismanagement of its function- aries, this was, even so early as towards the end of the seventeenth century, almost wholly alienated, — being either sold or feued out for a merely nominal equivalent. So that the heritors and inha- bitants were reduced to the necessity of submitting to a personal stent or impost, to maintain the ** liberty and credit of the town" — a state of things which could not have been favourable towards ef- fecting works of public improvement. The necessity for some of these, about this period, may be inferred from a report presented in 1733 to the town-council of Inverness, by certain of their number who had been commissioned to explore this ^' terra incognita." " There was," it says, " no prison, but there was a lake close to the town, which kept the people from church and market for want of a bridge." It further states, that there was no trade in the town, but that there were one or two inclined to carry on trade if they had a harbour." (Inverness burgh records.) For some time after this, we find no occurrence worthy of notice. The pub- lic tranquillity was occasionally afiected by the feuds of the sur- rounding clans, and when any of the hostile parties met, as they occasionally did at &irs, afirays frequently ensued, which some- times ended in bloodshed. In one of these, in 1740, the lady of the provost was killed* But various circumstances, shortly after this, tended to improve the condition of the place. Its trade was extending in proportion as the surrounding country grew in agri- cultural importance, which the altered habits of the Highlanders subsequently to 1745, tended to promote. Under a better and purer management, the revenue arising from its remaining property was increased. Bridges were built, — a jail was erected, the streets were paved, and water introduced into the town. And the loss of the common lands was in some measure compensated by their ra- pid conversion from swamps and pasture lands, to fertile fields and thriving plantations, a change at once beneficial and ornamental. In more recent times, the cutting of a canal began in 1815, and was completed in 1817, by which vessels of considerable burthen are brought into the immediate vicinity of the town. The establish- ment of a branch bank in 1828, — the high state of culture to 4 DINGWA.LL. 221 which the surrounding country has been brought, — the constant and easy communication with an extensive and populous district, — together with several other circumstances of a less obvious charac- ter, have contributed to increase considerably, the commercial and political importance of Dingwall. Antiquities. — At the east end of the town may still be seen part of the ruins oT what once was the chief residence of the Earls of Eloss. This family, which occupied a distinguished rank among the Scottish baroDS, possessed a great part of the landed property of this dis- trict, several of the most considerable proprietors around holding their lands by charter from them dated '' apud castrum nostrum de Dingwall."* This building, which would seem to have been a regular fortification, occupying an area of about half an acre, was well situated for defence. It stood quite close to the sliore, the deep slimy channel of the PeRery into which the sea flowed wind- ing about two of its sides, and a level plain of considerable ex- tent surrounding it on the other. A small fragment of the castle wall is all that now remains of it, but even this is capable of giving some idea of the solidity and massive proportions of the original structure. The fosse, which surrounded it, may still be traced ; and a regular glacis is plainly visible. After the forfeiture of the Earl, the proprietor of the estate of TuUoch was appointed here- ditary constable of the castle, with a salary of 20 merks, or L.1, 2s. 2Jd. Sterling. Its site is now occupied by a castellated build- ing, erected by a naval gentleman, a native of the place, who ob- tained the land in feu, and who, by the improvements which he has effected, has contributed much to the ornament of the town. Near the church stands an obelisk, which, although of no great antiquity, attracts the notice of all travellers. It is erected on an artificial mound, occupying about two- thirds of an acre. The obe- lisk is 6 feet square at the base, and rises in a pyramidal form, to the height of 57 feet. It was erected by George first Earl of Cro- marty, Secretary of State for Scotland, in the reign of Queen Anne, and was intended to ornament and distinguish this spot, which he designed to be the family burying-place. Towards the north end of the pari.sh, there are the remains of a Dniidical temple; and there are many similar remains in the neigh- bourhood* It stands on a bare moor, — all that now remains of it be- * The tenure by which some of these arc held is somewhat singular. One pro- prietor in the neighlx>urhood is bound by his charter to deposit yearly, at the castle wmll, a stipulated quantity of ptats. 222 ROSS AND CROMAaTY. ing the upright stones of the inner circle, — those of the outer circle, which may still be distinctly traced in the sward, having been re- moved to build a march-dike in the vicinity. III. — Population. For the reasons above assigned, it is impossible now, with any accuracy, to ascertain the ancient state of the population of this parish, which would appear to have been subject to consi- derable fluctuation, both in circumstances and numerical amount. The amount of the population since the commencement of the Parliamentary census has been as follows : Males, Females. In 1801 it was 1418 619 799 1811 1500 647 853 1821 2031 930 1101 1831 2139 980 1159 This gradual increase of population is satisfactorily accounted for by the growing habits of attention to cleanliness and health, apparent among the people, — the universal use of vaccination, — and the occasional influx of strangers, particularly the settlement here of the staS* of the Ross-shire militia in 1816. The increase since 1821, as indicated above, is considerably less than it would have been, owing to the extent to which emigration has been carried on during the last few years ; — the average number of persons who have left this parish for the Canadas, during that period, being not much below twenty, annually. A considerable number also of young men leave this parish yearly, in quest of employment in the south. The number of the population residing in the burgh is 1715, be- ing about four-fifths of the whole. There are no villages in the parish. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 50 That of marriages for the same period . . 11| There is no register of deaths kept in the parish. The number of individuals and families of independent fortune residing in the parish is about . . 15 The number of proprietors of land, of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwai ds, is 7 Number of families in the parish, . . 484 chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 90 in trade, manufiuitures, or handicraft, 127 The people of this parish are not remarkable for any peculiarity in their personal appearance. The number of insane persons is 2 ; of fatuous 6 ; of blind 1 ; and of deaf and dumb I. Gaelic is still the language of the lower orders of the people, although it has been sensibly declining within the last twenty years, and promises at no very distant period to be completely sup- planted by the English, which is understood by all, and tolerably DINGWALL. 223 well spoken by most of the inhabitants. It has become the lan- guage of ordinary conversation among the young, Gaelic being now rarely heard on the play ground. Still the older members of the community are strongly attached to it, and public worship is every Sabbath performed in it, at which a large proportion of the people attend. There are no popular customs peculiar to this parish worthy of notice. The taste for amusements would seem to be declining here; even the Christmas and Newyear's shinty matches, in which but recently, both old and young used to indulge with eager inte- rest, are now abandoned, and exchanged, it is to be feared, in many instances, for pastimes of a less equivocal character. The ]>eople generally are simple, industrious, and temperate in their habits, rather cheerful in their dispositions, and affable in their manners and address. Although by no means filthy in their persons, they are far from remarkable for cleanliness in their dwell- ings and domestic arrangements. But a marked change in this respect is now taking place. More regard is now paid to neatness, at least in the exterior of their houses ; and the dunghill, which used to dis6gure the approach to them, is now pretty generally giving place to a flower-plot or shrubbery. The staple articles of food among the peasantry are potatoes and herrings, which, with oatmeal, form the subsistence of the poorer classes. Fresh fish, with which the market here is abundantly supplied at particular seasons of the year, comes on these occasions within the reach of their limited funds, and supplies them with a wholesome and agreeable variety. But the standard of living is exceedingly low, — butcher meat being to the lower orders a luxury in which they seldom indulge. Still, however, the people are social and con- tented, and enjoy the comforts of society in a higher degree than their slender circumstances would indicate. Their intellectual character stands as high as that of most peo- ple who labour under the disadvantage of using the Gaelic as their vernacular tongue, in which there existed nothing, at least until recently, deserving the name of literature. Most of them, it is true, were taught to read and write English, but they thvdi in Gaelic, which renders these acquisitions of comparatively little use to them. But although thus necessarily, in a great measure, strangers to the intelligence acquired by reading, and consequent- ly a good deal influenced by the narrow prejudices inseparable from ignorance, they are naturally shrewd and observant, sagacious 224 ROSS AND CROMARTY. in the management of their aflfairs, and not altogether destitute of that thoughtful and imaginative cast of mind characteristic of High- landers. Their character for morality is upon the whole creditable. Mak* ing due allowance for exceptions, they are honest, sober, and peaceable, good citizens, and loyal subjects. The number of ha- bitual drunkards in the place is small, bearing no proportion to the amount of temptation to that vice presented by the great num- ber of public-houses. Still the tone of their morality is perhaps rather strict than hiffk. With regard to religion, in so far at least as externals are con- cerned, they are decidedly a religious people ; having great re- verence for sacred things, evincing a laudable diligence in attend- ing the means of religious instruction, and in general maintaining a suitable conduct, with those exceptions which must occur in every society. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres in this parish, either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, is, . . . . 2888 The number which have never been cultivated, but remain in pasture is .3168 There is very little of this capable of being added to the cul- tivated land of the parish with any prospect of remuneration. It chiefly consists of some hill pasture, and moorland lying at the northern extremity of the parish. But there is an extent of about *200 acres within the parish recoverable from the sea, and capable of being very profitably improved. It consists of a flat bay, with a bottom composed of mud, covered only at high water, wKich might be easily rendered capable of yielding excellent crops ; all that is requisite being to exclude the sea, which might easily be effected by means of an embankment, owing to the shallowness of the water. A method has been suggested by which this land might be recovered at a very inconsiderable expense, which is worthy of notice. It is found that each tide carries along with it a quantity of the slime of which the shore is chiefly composed for a considerable distance, which at present it washes off again by its action as it recedes. But if a row of pretty closely set piles were so placed as to prevent its being carried away, the mud would not only accumulate about the piles (which might be multiplied from time to time, as an increase of height or solidity was required,) so as in time to form an embankment, but a deposit would gra- dually go on which would have the additional advantage of raising DINGWALL. 225 the whole surface. Tlint this wouUl actually be the result is proved by the fact, that within a yair^ which was erected a few years ago in the neighbourhood, and wliich could but partially answer the purpose of the piles, a bed of mud of considerable depth has already been deposited. And this is further confirmed by the rapidity with which mud accumulates in those parts of the canal which are not exposed to the action of the current. There are no common lands in the parish. There are 1385 acres covered with plantations of fir, larch, and hard-wood, chiefly the first, of all ages, — all very thriving, and in general well attended to. But besides this, there is a great deal of very fine wood, consisting of beech, elm, oak, ash, syca- more, &c dispersed all over the parish in the form of clumps, rows, and borders. Tulloch, the residence- of the principal pro- prietor, is very richly wooded, which is disposed with great taste, And the fields all over the parish are edged with rows of trees, —the disadvantage of which to the farmer is compensated to the public in the luxuriant and picturesque appearance which they impart to the country. The average rent of arable land in the parish is about L. 2 per acre. The lands around the town, which are of superior quality, are very highly rented, some as high as L. 4, 10s. per acre. The average rent of grazing here is at the rent of L. 1 per ox or cow, and 3s. per sheep during the year. The usual rate of wages for farm-servants is from L. 7 to L. 8 in money, 7 bolls of meal, a quarter of an acre of potatoes, and a free house and garden, worth in all about L. 20 per annum. La- bourers only occasionally employed are paid at the rate of about 7s» 6d. a^week ; and country artisans at about 9s. The average rate of mason work for some years past is from L. 1, 16s., to L. 2 per rood, journeymen being paid at the average rate of 12s, a- week. Carpenters are paid from 10s. to 12s. a-week ; slaters about 12s. — painters from 12s. to 16s. But work of all kinds l<( done now by estimate, and the rate of wages varies according to the demand, and the qualification of the workman. The number of sheep and cattle bred in this parish is inconsi* derable ; the grazing, which is well sheltered by wood, being ge- nerally let as wintering for sheep reared in the more mountainous and exposed parts of the country, and as summer grazing for the black-cattle reared by the farmers and cottars around, which are grazed at so much per head. The few sheep produced in the ROSS AND CROMARTY. P 226 ROSS AND CROMARTY. parish, which were formerly the common black-faced breed of the country, are now Cheviot of the most approved breed. The cattle are generally of the Highland stamp, with the exception of some Ayrshire cows, recently introduced. The horses on all the larger farms are Clydesdale, of a superior caste. The cottars still use the small garrons of the country. The husbandry pursued in the parish is of a very high character. The neatness, extent, and regularity of the fields, and the general appearance of high culture which the forms present, frequently ex- cites the surprize of strangers who visit the Highlands for the first time ; while the superior quality of the produce secures for it the highest prices in the markets. The implements used are of the most approved description, comprising most of the modem improve- ments. The systems of cropping practised are the following, chiefly the first : 1st. Six-course rotation for best loam or clay lands: 1. fallow manured, or turnips with manure or bone-dust; 2. wheat or barley ; 3. hay ; 4. oats ; 5. potatoes, pease, or beans manured ; 6. wheat — 2d. Five-course rotation for light or gravelly land: 1. turnips; 2. barley or wheat occasionally; 3. hay; 4. pasture; 5. oats, or wheat seldom. — 3d. Seven-course rotation for inferior loam or clay : 1. fallow or turnips ; 2. wheat or barley ; 3. hay ; 4. pasture ; 5. oats ; 6. beans or potatoes ; 7. wheat Since the date of the former Statistical Account, a great pro- portion of the arable land of the parish has been brought into a state of culture. A considerable part of this was reclaimed from the sea. It consisted of carse lands lying to the south and east of the town, over which the sea flowed at high water. In the im-' provement of this, all that was requisite was to exclude the sea by means of embankments (which has been effectually done,) and to level the surface, as the want of fall, and the nature of the sub- soil (a stiff* clay) precluded drainage. By the aid of lime and manure, these lands have been brought into a state of great pro- ductiveness. Another extensive improvement was the drainage and culture of the low part of Strathpeffer,. lying within this pa- rish, consisting of a swampy morass overgrown by stunted alder trees, and commonly called the bog. Through this a channel was cut for the Peffery, sufficiently deep to afford a fall for drainage, by a judicious use of which, and by trenching and levelling the sur- face, this, which was formerly of so little value as to be used as a common grazing, has become one of the finest farms in the parish. DINGWALL. 227 These improveinents were chiefly cfTected by the tenants who hold their lands on leases of nineteen or twenty-one years ; and this demonstrates the great advantage resulting, not only to the proprietor, but to society generally, from such leases as secure to the occupier the fruits of his enterprize or skill. The lands about town are generally held on leases of five years, the proprietor be- ing unwilling to grant them for longer terms, as they might prove obstacles to improvements, and as the value of land is there more fluctuating. The farm-buildings throughout the parish arc in good repair. Ttiey are in general substantial and commodious. The enclosures are chiefly sunk fences and hedges, the latter of which are very badly kept The chief obstacles to improvement on the part of the farmer here, arise from the frequent inability of the proprietor, owing to circumstances connected with the law of entail, to render the te- nant any assistance or encouragement in times of depression. The best remedy for this would undoubtedly be the conversion of money into grain rents, which would render the tenant independent to a great degree of fluctuation in the market prices. There are three quarries in the parish ; one of these, which b situated about one-fourth of a mile from the town, is the proper- ty of the public It is a hard gray sandstone of good quality ; but the labour and expense of excavating it are verj- great, owing to the depth of clay and breccia by which it is covered. The other two, which are private property, are of a fine lighublue colour, aSbrd- ing stone fit for all kinds of work, and susceptible of a very fine ' polish* It has, however, one disadvantage ; there is a small ad- mixture of iron pyrites, upon which the rain in time operates, and stains in a very ugly manner the contiguous stones. There are no fisheries in this parish, with the exception of a stell salmon-fishing in the Conan, one-third of which belongs to the common good of the burgh, and from which it derives an ave- rage revenue of L. 90. There is also belonging to the town a yair fishing in the frith, which pays a trifling rent, but, owing to mal- construction or some other cause, it has been for a few years past very unproductive. The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, which, owing to a variety of circumstances it would be almost im- possible to ascertain with accuracy, may be approximated thus : Assuming the six-course rotation described above to represent the 228 ROSS AND CROMARTY. relative proportion of the crops, and the amount of arable land in the parish to be 2388 imperial acres, it follows that, One-sixth being fallow or in turnips, one-half of each, there are of the latter 199 acres, valued at L. 5 per acre, • . L. 995 One-sixth wheat and barley, one-half of each, 199 acres wheat, 28 bushels per acre, valued at 4s. 6d. per bushel, 1253 14 8 199 acres barley, 40 bushels per acre, at 3s. 6d. . . 1393 One-sixth hay, 396 acres, 200 stone per acre (24 lb. per stone) at 8d. 2653 6 One-sixth oats, 398 acres, 51 bushels per acre, at 2s. 6d. . 2537 5 One-sixth potatoes and pease or beans one-half of the first, 199 acres potatoes, 240 bushels per acre, at I Od. . . 1990 199 acres pease or beans, 28 bushels per acre, at 3s. 6d. 975 One-sixth wheat, 398 acres, 28 bushels per acre at 4s. 6d. • 2507 8 1500 sheep pastured at 2s. . . . . 150 Cattle pastured, value, • 50 Annual value of timber cut in the parish, . . 700 Fisheries, average gross produce, * . . . 600 Quarries about . . • • . • 50 L. 15354 15"^ Navigation. — There are but two small vessels belonging to this place. They were built here, and are employed in the coast trade. But, besides these, the port is frequented by vessels of different descriptions, which supply the district with lime, coal, &c. Associations. — The " Farmers' Society for Wester Ross," which has for its object the promotion of agriculture and its interests in this district, holds its quarterly meetings at Dingwall. Of this so- ciety all the principal farmers, and most of the landed proprietorR around, are members. At these meetings the business consists in reading essays, detailing experiments, describing new inventions or improvements on the implements of husbandry, and in deliberating on the general interests of agriculture. The influence of this so- ciety has been considerable in improving stock, by promoting local exhibitions, &c. in bringing modern discoveries in the theory or practice of farming into general notice, and in fostering feelings of kindliness and intimacy, such as should ever subsist between land- lord and tenant V. — Parochial Economy. The burgh of Dingwall contains a population of 1715, amount- ing to about four- fifths of the whole population of the parish. Having no manufactures, the trade of Dingwall is very limited, being confined, on the one hand, to the importation of those various articles of merchandise which are required for the supply of the surrounding country ; and, on the other, to the exportation of com, timber, bark, and such other country produce as can be convenient- ly procured to form a freight for the vessels which bring hither coal, lime, and other commodities. DINGWALL. 229 The cbarterecl constitution of the burgh consists in a council of fifteen members, including a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, and a treasurer. These, by the late burgh Reform Act, are elect- ed from time to time by those residing within the royalty, who pos- sess or rent property to the yearly value of L. 10 or upwards. The number of persons jK)ssessing this qualification here is about .100. Dingwall is one of the northern district of burghs that send a joint member to Parliament. The police of the place is very defective, owing to the limited state of the public funds. For although it possesses an average revenue of L, 273^ 7s. 2d. Sterling, arising from the superiority of certain lands held in feu of the burgh, — the fishings in the river G>nan, &c and the rent of a small residue of the public lands, still the interest of debts to a large amount, contracted chiefly in a te^* dious law-suit with the Honourable Mrs Hay M^Kenzie of Cro- marty, regarding possession of part of the Conan fishings, together with the payment of public burdens, leave little to meet the ex- pense of an efficient system of pohce, and of cleaning, lighting, or improving the town. The freedom of the town, which is an indispensable qualifica- tion to merchants commencing business here, costs from L. 5 to L. 15, according to the probable extent of the business to be car- ried on. Means of CommunicatioTL— There is the greatest facility of com- munication between Dingwall and all parts of the country. The roads in all directions are surpassed by none in the kingdom. The mail-coach passes and repasses daily through the town, and in summer there are two additional daily coaches, one betwixt Ding- wall and Inverness by the ferry of Kessock, a distance of thirteen miles. And the other twice each day between Dingwall and the Stratbpeffer spaw, now a place of considerable resort, distant four miles and a-hal£ Weekly steam-boats from Edinburgh, and every second week from London, call at Invergorden, in this frith, distant only fourteen miles ; and the town furnishes four post-chaises and six gigs- There is a tolerably good harbour quite close to the town, con- sisting of a canal formed in the years 1815-17, at an expense of L. 4365. The management of it is vested by an Act of Parlia- ment passed in 1824 in a board of commissioners, a great ma- jority of whom consist of the magistrates of the town. The ave- rage revenue arising from it is about L. 130, which is not more than sufficient to keep it in repair. The advantages resulting from 230 ROSS AND CROMARTY. this canal must be obvious, for by means of it, vessels of con- siderable burden are brought into the immediate vicinity of the town, which, without it, owing to the shallowness of the frith, must have remained at a distance ; and, from the muddy nature of the shore, almost inaccessible. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated on the north side of the town, and is exceedingly convenient to the whole po- pulation, being almost in the centre of the parish. It was built in- 1801. Although plain in its exterior, within it is remarkably neat and commodious, and is in excellent repair. It aflfords seat- room for about 800. From the circumstance, that the Gaelic and English portions of the population form two almost distinct con- gregations nearly equally numerous, this apparently deficient ac- commodation is ample. For the same cause also the poorer clas- ses, who belong to the Gaelic congregation, enjoy the privilege of church accommodation free of expense ; for the wealthier part of the community, by whom seats are rented, attend, with few excep- tions, the English service only, and thus all the seats are open to the unrestricted access of any who may choose to occupy them during the Gaelic service. The manse was built in the year 1791, — and had an addition made to it in 1825. It is sufficiently commodious, and is at pre- sent in good repair. The glebe, which is a mile distant from town, consists of about ten acres, — all arable, and of superior quality. The stipend is 16 chalders, paid one-half in meal, and the other in barley. There is a catechist employed in the parish, who receives about L. 15 per annum for his services. This sum is paid partly by the inhabitants, who subscribe for the purpose, and partly by the kirk-session, who allow him L. 5 for visiting the poor. There are no Dissenting or Secession places of worship in the parish, but there is an Episcopalian chapel, in which service is per- formed every alternate Sabbath. The whole population of the parish are members of the Esta.- blished Church, with the exception of from 40 to 50 Episcopap- lians, and about a dozen Wesleyian Methodists, — strangers con- nected with the staff of the Ross-shire militia, which is stationed here. The people are regular in their attendance on divine worship. The average number of communicants is 140. The only religious or charitable society established in the pa- DINGWALL. 231 rish, is " the Dingwall Ladies' Association for Missionary and Re- ligious purposes," which meets annually with the view of collect- ing funds in aid of the objects of the association. But the north- em Missionary Society holds one of its annual meetings at Ding- wall. The average amount collected by these annually is about Lb 66; the receipts of the latter generally amounting to about L.50. The yearly average amount of church collections for religious and charitable purposes is about L. 60. ^Education. — There are five schools in the parish. One of these is the parochial school, — none of the others is endowed. One, an inhnt school, was erected in 1832, by private subscription, and ^s still supported by the same means. The other three, of which one is a female seminary, are private, — the school fees being the sole emolument of the teacher. At these the ordinary branches of education are taught, viz. reading, writing, arithmetic, English grammar, and geography ; in addition to which, at the parochial school, mathematics, the Latin and Greek classics, French, &c. are taught In addition to those mentioned, there is a Sabbath school in the parish, at which from 200 to 300 children generally attend. It meets in church, and is taught on Gall's system, by a number of benevolent individuals of both sexes, under the superintend- ence of the minister. The salary of the parochial teacher is the maximum, amounting to L. 34, 4s. 4]^d. The average annual amount of school fees is about L. 40. The teacher is provided with a house and garden, —-that occupied by him at present is rented for that purpose by the heritors, — the house appropriated to the schoolmaster having &llen into disrepair. The general expense of education is as follows ; viz. for Eng- lish reading, 6s. per annum ; do. and writing, 8s. ; do. do. and arithmetic, 12s. ; Latin or Greek L.1, 4s. &c. The people in general are sufficiently alive to the advantages of education, and, with few exceptions, avail themselves of the fa- cilities afforded them of giving to their families at least an elemen- tjury education. The low rate of fees places this within the reach of all who exercise ordinary industry and prudence ; and that the children of the poorest may not be excluded from its blessings, the kirk-session maintain at school twenty of the most destitute chil- dren out of the funds at their disposal. 232 ROSS AND CROMAUTV. Literature — It is to be regretted that there is no public library or reading-room, nor any literary or scientific society in this pa- rish. There was a subscription library established here some time ago, but, owing to public indifference, the project failed. The reason probably is, that the wealthier and more influential part of the community, which comprises almost the whole of its literary taste are generally possessed of private libraries, and supply them- selves with newspapers and periodicals. Of the former, about forty- seven come to the parish, of which about seven are daily papers ; and of the latter, the number of copies of the larger magazines and reviews which come to the parish is twenty-eight, and of the smal« ler class, 136. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor re- ceiving regular parochial relief is about 100; whose allowances vary from 5s. to L. 1 yearly. Besides these, a. considerable sum is annually expended in relieving contingent cases of necessity. The average amount of poor's funds is L. 100 ; of which about L. 50 are derived from church collections. The remaining L. 50 consists of the interest of various sums, amounting to L. 1000, mor- tified at different periods for the behoof of the poor. Of this, L. 700 was left by one of the proprietors of the estate of Tulloch, and L. 100 by the late Bailie Murdo Mackenzie of this place. The remainder, consisting of cash at the disposal of the kirk-session, has been lent out on heritable security, for all which five per cent interest is paid. There is no regular assessment here for the poor, but claims for parochial relief do occasionally occur which the ordinary resources of the parish are incapable of meeting, and which compel recourse to a measure which ought always to be resorted to with caution, on account of its obvious tendency to encourage idleness, and to de- stroy that feeling of independence which shrinks from parochial re- lief, which still exists to a considerable degree here, and which is one of the strongest stimuli to habits of industry and economy. Prisons. — There is a jail in the burgh, which, however, has been disused for a year or two past, owing to its great insecurity. It has recently undergone a temporary repair, and is about to be again employed as a place of confinement Four-fifths of the pri* soners confined in it when in use were committed for offences against the excise laws. These, the Highlanders, a simple people, unskilled in nice distinctions, were accustomed to view as oppres- sive restrictions on a practice to which habit had given them the DINGWALL 233 feeling of a legal right The infringement of them they therefore did not regard as criminal, and imprisonment, on account of it, they considered as rather a misfortune than a disgrace. But smuggling is now, happily for the peace and comfort of the people, almost wholly at an end ; so that our jail will henceforth, it is hoped, be occupied by those only whose offences are of so unequi- vocal a criminality as that the severity of their punishment may not be aggravated by a doubt of its justice. The government of the jail was extremely defective. Indeed, the iK)verty of accommoda- tion, and the character of the building, which permitted the pri- soners to hold free and constant intercourse with the public, pre- cluded anything like a proper system of discipline, while the damp and ill-ventilated cells into which many were necessarily crowded, seldom failed in affecting the most robust constitutions. A new county jail is at present in contemplation, of which Dingwall, as the county town, and the most centrical situation, is generally ex- pected to be the site. Fairs. — There are three annual fairs held in the parish, at which all sorts of commodities arc vended. At these the country people assemble in great numbers, partly because they still have somewhat of the character of festivals, (which the term ^^ fcil" in Gaelic imports,) but chiefly owing to the force of confirmed habit, since all that can be purchased at these fairs may be had quite as conveniently in town at any time. Inns, 4^c. — In addition to the two principal inns, which are com- modious and well kept houses, there are in the parish at present sixteen licensed public-houses. The number a few years ago was considerably greater, but the authorities, sensible of their demo- ralizing tendency, have been gradually restricting the number, and have done much to counteract their influence, by maintaining over them a strict superintendence. Fuel. — The fuel used in the parish is chiefly coal, of which there is always an abundant supply. Peats are also a good deal used. They are brought from the neighbouring parish of Fod- derty, in small runff carts, and sold at a shilling or fifteenpence |)er load* Miscellaneous Observations. Since the time of the last Statistical Account this parish has un- dergone considerable change, chiefly in respect of its productive cajMibilities, the condition and appearance of the town, and the multiplied facilities of communication with all parts of the king- 234 ROSS AND CROMARTY. dom. Since that period a great part of the parish, formerly waste, has been brought into culture, and that previously in cultivation greatly improved. - At that time the land was principally occupied by small farmers and crofters, whose notions of husbandry were ex- tremely limited ; now it is laid out in large farms, where the most approved theories of farming are practically exemplified. Then the implements used were of the most primitive description, Scots ploughs, rung carts, kallachies, &c., now these, which are not to be seen at all, have been supplanted by metallic ploughs, harrows and rollers, frame carts, &c &c These changes have not left much to be added to the productive capacity of the parish. Still it would be too much to say that this had attained its maximum. Some land, as has been mentioned, still remains to be reclaimed, and farther improvements in agriculture may still do much in de- veloping the latent energies of the soil. In these changes also the town has shared in a similar degree. Since that time it has been greatly extended, and the character of the buildings, both in respect of size and comfort, very much improved. Most of the better sort of houses have been built with- in the last twenty years, and several excellent houses are at pre- sent in the course of erection. Shops of all kinds have multiplied to such a degree as to furnish every kind of goods, and to preclude the necessity which existed, even within the last twenty years, of sending to Inverness for all but the most common commodities. The access to the town has been greatly improved, especially to- wards the north, in which direction a new street has been opened. A new road has also been made leading eastward to the shore. A harbour has been formed, — a bank has been established, — new apparatus has been constructed for conveying water into the town, — the pavement of the streets has been renewed, and more atten- tion than formerly is now paid to keeping them clean. Light is still a desideratum. Another important change, in the benefits of which this parish has participated in common with the district around, is the facili- ty of communication with all parts of the country. Roads of the very best description intersect it in all directions, along which coaches and carriers are continually passing, affording means of conveyance to the places around. A constant communication has been opened by steam both with Edinburgh and London ; that »with the latter place has only been recently established, but has already exerted a marked influence on the arrangements of the CONTIN. 235 fanner, as rendering the feeding of stock, for which this has open- ed up the market, to which little attention has been hitherto paid here, an object of the first importance. With all these changes, the condition of the people has been improving. Habits of cleanliness and comfort now more generally prevail, and the bulk of the people have been advancing in intelli- gence and information ; towards which the facilities of education, especially the institution of the Sabbath and Infant Schools, have contributed ; and which the establishment of libraries accessible to the lower classes would still further promote. A savings bank is also very desirable for the encouragement of right management and economy. But many of the people are extremely poor, and in want of regular employment, — a want which can only be sup- plied by the introduction of manufactures, for which the place is well situated. There is abundance of people who would be glad of employment. Living is comparatively moderate. The home market for several kinds of manufactures would be considerable, and conveyance to the foreign markets would always be easy and open. March 1837. PARISH OF CONTIN. PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. CHARLES DOWNIE, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parish of Contin is situate in the centre of the county of Ross. Its etymology is not easily determined, and there are various opinions concerning it. In the former Statistical Ac- count, the name is supposed to be derived from the Gaelic words Can-tuinnj i. e. the meeting of the waves or waters, with reference to the branches of the river Rasay, which form a small island, that has been, for time immemorial, the clergyman's possession and place of residence. It is also observable that rivers of a consider- able size meet at other two points in the parish. This derivation is not quite satisfactory ; but we adopt it, in the absence of a better. 236 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Extent — Boundaries. — Coiitin is 33 miles long, by measure- ment of the Parliamentary road that passes through it ; and the breadth is believed to be little short of the length. Thus, as re- gards extent of surface, it ranks among the largest parishes in Scot^ land. It is bounded on the west by Gairloch and Lochcarron ; on the south by Kilmorack and Urray ; on the east by Urray and Fodderty ; and on the north by Lochbroom. The general aspect of the parish is mountainous ; and the atmosphere is generally mild and dry. Hydrography. — The parish is abundantly supplied with peren- nial springs of the most wholesome water. On the estate of Hil- ton, there are several strongly impregnated with iron. Lakes are numerous. Those of sufficient importance to be here named, are Loch Chroisg, supposed to be 5 miles long, and 1 broad ; Loch Fannich, 12 miles in length, and 1 in breadth ; Loch Luichart, 6 miles long, and generally half a mile broad ; Loch Killin, 2 miles long, and about 1 mile in breadth. In each of these, the water is mossy, and of a mild temperature. There are likewise the smaller lakes of Achilty and Kinellan, which deserve to be noticed separately. The former is about 2 miles in circumference, and abounds in trout and char. The wa- ter is unusually pure, and very rarely freezes. The scenery all around this lake is highly picturesque. It is remarkable that a rivulet from an adjoining little lake forms the only visible ingress, while there is no egress that can be seen, although it is believed there is a subterraneous communication from it to the river Rasay, which runs within one mile to the north-east Loch Kinellan is also a pleasing object, with its pretty little island, (for many years a garden ;) and the fine arable fields on one side contrast strikingly with the wilder scenery on the other. There is here a very distinct echo. The principal rivers are, — the Connon, which has its origin in Loch Chroisg, in the western extremity of the parish, and is fed by tributary streams in its progress to the sea ; — Meig, which ori- ginates in Glenigag, the most distant point of Contin to the west, and receives similar supplies until it joins the Connon at Little Scatnell; — Rasay, or Black Water, whose source is in Strath- Vaich, on the confines of Lochbroom, and which runs parallel to the other two, until the three waters unite at Moy, and form one river, the Connon, which discharges itself into Cromarty Frith, within a few miles from the town of Dingwall. CONTIN. 23? Salmon, pike, and trout are caught in these lakes and rivers. Geology. — The prevailing formation in this parish is gneiss with its various subordinate rocks ; the old red sandstone also occurs, but only in the lower parts of the parish. Wood, — A considerable extent of the lowland district is cover- ed with wood, part of which has been planted. At one period, a lai^ proportion of the parish must have been wooded ; for many roots and trunks of trees are still found imbedded in moss, in si- tuations where there is not so much as a shrub now to be seen. Even in the recollection of persons still living, there were forests of Scots fir, remarkable for the richness and durability of their timber. These have been cut down, but there remain some plan- tations of larch and fir; and the soil is congenial to oak, ash, elm, birch, plane, alder,' and beech also. Of the latter, some venerable and stately trees at Coul are highly ornamental. 11. — Civil History. Land-owners. — The number of land-owners is 1 1, of whom only one (Sir George Mackenzie) resides in the parish. Parochial Registers, — With the exception of an old mutilated fragment, and one very imperfect register, there is no public re- cord of any kind, of a remoter date than 1805. Marriages and births were not regularly entered until 1826; but since then a re- cord of these has been kept in due form. Eminent Men. — Of -^neas Morisbn, the last Episcopal minister of Contin, many interesting anecdotes are still related, illustrative of his wit and benevolence. This excellent man suffered very harsh treatment for refusing to conform to presbytery. He was rudely ejected from his own church, to which ho had fled as a sanctuary ; and he closed a long, and honourable, and useful life in great in- digence. It may be noticed, also, that Mr Murdo Mackenzie, the second Presbyterian minister in the parish, appears to have been a man whose prudence, sagacity, and decision of character fitted him well for the times in which he lived, and the circumstances under which he acted. Here, too, the name of the late Rev. Roderick Mackenzie, minister of Kilmuir Wester and Suddy, who was for sixteen years minister of Contin, is well entitled to a place, for his remarkable benevolence of disposition, — his active exertions to pro- mote the views of deserving youth, — and the paternal interest he ever manifested in all that concerned the welfare of his flock. Antiquities. — At the eastern extremity of Loch Achilty, is seen one of those circles formed of stone, within which the Druids are 238 ROSS AND CROMARTY. supposed to have worshipped. We have heard that an attempt was made, some years ago, to ascertain its contents; but it ended in disappointment, as nothing else was found than a few empty earth- en jars. In Lake Kinellan stands an artificial island, resting upon logs of oak, on which the family of Seaforth had at one period an house of strength ; and a quarter of a mile eastward, is the place of Bktr* na!n Ceann^ or field of heads, — so named, from having been the scene of a very sanguinary conflict between the Mackenzies of Sea- forth, and Macdonells of Glengarry. The latter, according to tradition, came, as was the fashion in those days, to resent an old feud by force of arms, but were routed after great slaughter ; and, being pursued by the Mackenzies to the confluence of the rivers Rasay and Connon at Moy, were there forced into the water, and drowned. There is still in Loch Achilty a small island, likewise supposed to be artificial. It belonged to MacLea Mor, u e. Great Mac- Lea, who possessed, at the same time, a large extent of property in the parish ; and who was wont, in seasons of danger, to retire to the island as a place of refuge from his enemies. The ruins of the buildings which he there occupied may still be traced. A niche was long seen in the wall of the church, called Cruist Mhic' a Lea, from its having formed part of a vault in which that family was buried. Modern Buildings. — At Coul, in the eastern part of the parish, a new mansion-house was built in 182], which is handsome and commodious. The surrounding grounds have been tastefully laid out, and the garden is kept in a superior style. Two churches have been, of late years, erected in this parish, — one at Keanlochhuchart, in 1825— and the other in Strathcon- non, in 1830, — upon the Government grant for building additional places of worship in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. IIL — Population. By Dr Wc!>8ter's census in 1755, the population was - 1949 According to last Statistical Account in 1792, - 2000 By the census of 1831, .... 2023 The number of males in 1831 was 943, of females 1080. The inhabitants, being partial to the place of their nativity, do not re- move from it while they can earn a subsistence, until they are swept off to make way for extensive farmers. The average of births for the last seven years has been 55 of marriages, - . .14 3 CONTIN. 239 The number of deaths cannot be ascertained from the want of a register. Widowers above .50 years of age, - ]3 Unmarried women above 4o years, - 44 Number of familk^s in the piirish in 1834, - 437 The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, is 9. Gaelic, being the vernacular tongue, is the language chiefly spoken ; but, from the general diffusion of knowledge by means of schools, English is acquired by a large portion of the rising gene- ration. Habits and Character of the People. — Poverty having tended greatly to crush the social feelings of the people, they enjoy in a very limited degree, the pleasures and advantages of society ; yet they are in general not dissatisfied with their condition. The ge- neral character of the peasantry merits the most honourable testi- mony. It is that of a religious and moral people. Wherever the contrary appears, it may be traced to the influence of bad example, or to the mismanagement of those into whose hands it has been their misfortune to fall. Here, as throughout the Highlands, the native inhabitants discover great natural acuteness. Their dispo- sition is ingenuous ; and when treated with kindness, they arc tract- able, and grateful. Sincerity of friendship, ardour of attachment, and strict fidelity to those who reiK)se confidence in them, continue to characterize them. In their dealings they are just, in their callings industrious, in their manners obliging, disinterested in hos- pitality, and kind and generous towards their brethren in distress. With few exceptions, they are of sober habits, and give regular at- tendance upon public worship. The Highlanders are grossly calumniated, when represented as inactive and indolent. Let the proper encouragement be given to them, and it will be found that, however far they may surpass, they are certainly not inferior to any of their countrymen, in sagacity, ability, and inclination to work. It is true that in Contin, as well as in various other parishes, the population is seen at present under many disadvantages. The few that remain of the old race are greatly reduced in circumstances : and those who have known the noble-minded people of these districts in better days, — who are competent to judge, and who institute a comparison now, will readily, yet sorrowfully subscribe to the sentiment of the poet : «* A lK)ld peasjmtry, their country's pride, When i>nce dcstroved can never b.' supplied." 240 ROSS AND CROMARTY. To the pleasures of the sportsman, who ranges unmolested over moors and mountains, the inhabitants of Contin were long accus- tomed, in common with their Highland neighbours. But these days are past : and the people are now utter strangers to such amusements, for where the game is not let to English sportsmen, it is very carefully preserved. Poaching of any kind is therefore little practised. Indeed, he who possesses the proper independent feeling that animates the breast of a true Highlander, scorns thus to take what the lord of the soil denies to him. For many years smuggling prevailed to an alarming extent, throughout the interior of the parish, and must have been hurtful, as it always is, to the morals of the people ; but it has been so com- pletely suppressed, that illicit whisky has now become almost as rare as foreign spirits. In the course of the last three years, there were 4 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. By last census the number of males employed in agriculture, was 27 1 in manufactures, in retail trade or handicraft, 50 educated men, &c. . 13 labourers, ... 45 retired tradesmen not included above, . 16 female servants, . . 97 The precise extent of arable and pasture lands it has been im- possible to ascertain ; but the want of this information is of less consequence, from the greater part of the parish being mountainous, and therefore chiefly adapted tg pastoral purposes. It may, how- ever be remarked, that the arable land in the several valleys is of an active and fertile description ; and in the eastern or lowland di- vision, there are several farms entirely arable, averaging 140 or 150 acres each, the soil of which is of a superior kind, and farmed after the most improved system of modern husbandry. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre is L. 1, 10s. ; of grazing an ox or cow, about the same; of a sheep's grass, from Is. 9d., to 2s. per annum. Rate of Wages, — Labourers have commonly Is. a day in sum- mer, and lOd. in winter with victuals, or Is. 6d. and Is. 4d. with- out victuals ; a farm-servant receives from L. 7 to L. 8 of yearly wages, besides his victuals. Masons and carpenters earn 2s. 6d. and 2s. per day. Cattle and Sheep Stock. — Several farms are stocked both with Cheviot and black-faced sheep : and those reared on some graz- 1 CONTIN. 241 ings fetch the highest prices at market. We may particularize the farm of Acnasbine, belonging to Mr Mackenzie of Kilcoy, the stock of which when exhibited at competitions has repeatedly obtained premiums ; likewise Leadgowan, the property of M^ Mackenzie of Hilton,* and which is also well known as a sheep walk of superior value. The few black cattle reared for sale are the remains of the old Highland breed, which seems to have degenerated in the same ratio in which the circumstances of the people have declined. Leases vary in their duration from four to nineteen years ; and it naturally follows that the tenants who receive the longest leases improve their farms most All the arable farms are furnished with suitable houses and inclosures. Recent Improvements. — The principal recent improvement in this parish is at Craigdarroch, where Captain James Murray of the Royal Navy has erected a beautiful residence within a short walk of Loch Achilty. The house is a substantial and comfortable building, and stands in a romantic situation, commanding a view of the lake and surrounding scenery. The garden and grounds have been laid out with great taste ; and a track of barren moor has been, by persevering industry and judicious outlay, conveited into productive soil. Fishing. — The salmon-fishings of Connon and Rasay are the only two in the parish. The quality of the fish caught in each is superior ; and both may be worth about L. 40 a-year. V. — Parochial Economy. Marhet'Towiu — Dingwall, which is distant seven miles, is the nearest market-town, — none of the villages in the parish being of sufficient size to support a market. The Parliamentary road to Lochcarron passes through the parish from east to west There are likewise district roads. The post-town is Dingwall. Ecclesiastical State. — The church of Contin has always stood where it is now, on the minister's glebe, within two miles of the eastern extremity of the parish. It would seem to have been ori* ginally placed there, from the vicinity being better suited than any * Having mentioned the honoured name of Alexander Mackenzie, Esq. of Hilton, we do no more than discharge a debt to justice, in paying a short but sincere tribute to his genuine worth and to his unequalled character as a proprietor. It has been uniformly hia desire, that his tenants should enjoy comfort and happiness ; and under hisfoAtering care they failed not to prosper. In him too the virtuous poor and fricnd- Ics ever found a benefactor. All who occupied his soil regarded him as a father and • friend. nOSS AND CROMARTV. O 242 ROSS AND CROMARTY. other part to a permanent population ; and for the same reason, we may suppose it to have been continued in use during the time of Episcopacy. Its local situation could never have been convenient to a great part of the population ; but the inconvenience arising therefrom was remedied latterly by the labours of a missionary minister, who itinerated among the people in the remoter parts, and the people have now the benefit of two Parliamentary ministers stationed among them. At what period the church was erected is not known ; but the ancient appearance of the fabric, — several niches in the wall, — and the immense number of human bones found strewed within, (prior to the late repairs,) afford a strong presumption that it was built in Popish times. There cannot be a doubt that it was used for di- vine service while Episcopacy flourished in Scotland. About sixty years ago, it was newly roofed and slated : but not having been fi- nished within, it was long the most miserable place of worship in the shape of a parish church in the kingdom ; nor can much be said in favour of it still. A repair was executed upon it last season, but of such a nature that it continues confined and comfortless. The manse was built in the year 1794, but was very imperfect- ly finished ; and having been found inadequate to the incumbent's comfortable accommodation, the Court of Session, with its wonted enlightened and impartial liberality, decerned for a repair and im- provement of it and of the offices in 1829. Twenty-six Scots acres, arable and pasture, constitute the glebe. Being encompassed by water, and very flat, it is subject to inundation, which greatly deteriorates its value. In 1823, all the Heritors surrendered their teinds ; the stipend is consequently payable in money, and averages the value of ] 6 chalders. For nearly thirty years, there has been an itinerating catechist on the establish- ment of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The people being warmly attached to the Established Church, there is no chapel or Dissenting meeting-house of any kind in the parish; and we are happily free from Papists, voluntaries, and Seceders. Divine service is performed every Lord's day both in English and Gaelic, and is well attended in each language. The average number of communicants is about 100. Education. — Besides the parish school, there are other three supported by societies, and one by the inhabitants. English, Gaelic, writing, book-keeping, and arithmetic are the branches CONTIN. 243 generally taught in each of the schools ; and in the parish school, if desired, instruction maybe also had in geography, Latin, Greek, and mathematics. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 30, and the amount of fees varies from L. 8 to L. 10. Probablv the other teachers re« ceive from L. 15 to L. 20 each, including salary and fees. Generally speaking, the people are sensibleof the value of edu- cation. Poor. — The poor are maintained entirely by church collections, and the interest of a small fund, amounting to L. 71, 3s. 8d. which has been made up out of the remains of an old legacy bequeathed to them, and savings added occasionally thereto by the kirk-ses- sion. Of persons who receive parochial aid the ordinary number is 43, and the average sum allowed to each is 8s. Church col- lections average L. 7, 9s. a-year. The poor in this parish do not apply for relief, until compel- led by necessity, — in any other case they regard it as a degradation. Markets. — A market, established time out of mind, still conti- nues to be held at Contin Inn, twice every year. At one period, the site being favourable, the business transacted was considerable. Inns, — There are three inns along the line of the Parliament- ary road, besides two or three dram-shops, which last are to be deprecated for their immoral influence. JFVcf/. — Such as can afford the expense of coals, burn them; but the ordinary fuel is peat It does not appear necessary to add any thing further on the statistics of the parish ; and the writer regrets that the foregoing account contains so little which he can hope to have any interest for the general reader. Miscellaneous Observations. The increased value of land in the parish is worthy of remark. In 1792, the rental amounted at the utmost to L. 1400 only; now, after a lapse of forty-two years, it approaches to nearly L. 6000. As regards the arable land, the value has arisen from the addi- tions made to it, as well as from the improved system of husband- ry which has been adopted. The facility of access to market has also had an effect : and the high prices of sheep and wool for many years sufficiently account tor the extraordinary increase in the rents of pasture farms. As an instance of the latter, the grazing of Fannich, which let fifty years ago at L. 12, brings the present proprietor a yearly rent of L. 200. The value of game is no less 244 ROSS AND CROMAUTY. striking. In some cases, a larger rent is now paid for the privi- lege of shooting alone than was paid forty-five years ago for the right of pasturing. It is gratifying to observe, that the march of intellect has dispelled many of those superstitions that were formerly so com- mon in the Highlands ; and there is reason to believe, that, in a few years, such as remain shall disappear. September 1837. PARISH OF FODDERTY. PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. JOHN NOBLE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of this parish is supposed to be derived from two Gaelic words, Foigh and Ritaobhj which signify " a meadow along the side of a hill." These terms are descriptive of the val- ley of Strathpeffer, which forms the principal part of the parish, and stretches westward from Dingwall to the distance of four miles. Extent^ 4c. — The parish has been greatly diminished in extent, quoad sacra ^ since the localities attached to the Parliamentary churches were disjoined from it. It measures, at present, from cast to west 9 miles, and from north to south 1 1 miles ; and is bounded by Dingwall on the east ; Urray on the south ; Contin and Kinlochluichart on the west ; and Kincardine and Kiltearn on the north. Topographical Appearances^ Sfc, — Tlie parish is one of the most hilly and mountainous in Scotland. This is its general character, with the exception of the valley of Strathpeffer. Ben-Wyves or Ben-Uaish rises to the height of 3426 feet, and in respect of lateral bulk is the principal hill in the north. It was never known to be so free of snow as in the singularly hot summer of 1826. Its top is covered with a green soft sward, and when the sky is cloudless the extent and grandeur of the view from it amply compensate for the labour and fatigue of climbing. The principal proprietor, it is said, holds his right of possession from his Majesty, on condition ofpresenting a snow-ball at the court of St James*, on 3 FODDEKTY. 2 4;i any day of the year on which it may be recjuired. At the base, there is an extensive peat-tnoss, part of which is very spongy and easily consumed, and a part hard and bhick ; than which, there is scarcely any fuel better fitted for keeping up a mild and gentle heat. Knock' Farril, situated on the opposite or south side of the val- ley, is crowned with one of those vitrified forts which so puzzle and interest the antiquary. It is one of the most beautiful and strik- ingly marked in the country. Its form is conical, and the ascent on the side fronting the valley almost perpendicular. The ruins on the top surround a plain of nearly an acre in extent, from which Craig- Phadric, near Inverness, and Dun-Skaith, on the northern Sutor of Cromarty, are distinctly seen. Most of these hill-forts seem, in the first instance, to have been constructed by the ab- original inhabitants, for the purpose of defending themselves from their enemies. The vitrified appearance which some of them present, it is well known, has been the source of much controversy. Mr Williams and Dr Anderson supposed that fire had been used for cementing the walls, by fusing the materials of which they were composed. Mr Tytler (the late Lord Woodhouselee) was of opinion, that the vitrification resulted from the destruction of the buildings, of which we now see only the ruins. There is a third view, which has been ably advocated by Sir George Stewart Mackenzie of Coul, Baronet, viz. that the vi- trified appearance was caused by beacon-fires. " The following considerations," says he, '^ seem to support the idea of such high situations being chosen exclusively for signal stations. Sucli hills only as command an extensive view of the sea or adjacent country have been selected. There is a regular chain from Knock- Farril and Craig-Phadric along the great valley of Lochness to the west coast, and others are in sight towards the east, so that on the ap- pearance of an enemy on either side of the island, the whole coun- try from coast to coast could be informed, perhaps within the short space of an hour. And such is the situation of vitrified forts ex- clusively ; for they are not seen in any but commanding situations, while many spots, more convenient and better adapted in every re- spect for defence, are often to be found in their vicinity, or at no great distance." The origin of beacons is of the highest antiquity. They were used among the Jews and Greek<. 'I'he llouians, loo, were wont to light up nocturnal signal fires ; and latterly the ancient beal 246 BOSS AND CROMARTY. fires of Ireland have, in times of excitement, been revived, for a similar purpose in that country. " To be satisfied," says Sir George, " of the reason why the signal fires should be kindled on or beside a heap of stones, we have only to imagine a gale of wind to have arisen when a fire was kindled on the bare ground. The fuel would be blown about and dispersed to the great annoyance of those who attended. The plan for obviating the inconvenience thus occasioned, which would occur most naturally and readily, would be to raise a heap of stones on either side of which the fire might be placed to windward; — and to account for the vitrification appearing all round the area, it is only necessary to allow the inhabitants of the country to have had a system of signals. A fire at one end might denote something different from a fire at the other, or in some intermediate part. On some occasions, two or more fires might be necessary, and sometimes a fire along the whole line. It cannot be doubted," he adds, ^^ that the rampart was originally formed with as much re- gularity as the nature of the materials would allow, both in order to render it more durable, and to make it serve the purposes of defence." After combating the other opinions upon the subject, he concludes, that these structures may have served as beacons to castles in their vicinity, the remains of which are almost in every instance to be found, e. g. that Knock- Farril. may have been the signal-post of the Castle of Dingwall, which formed the principal residence of the ancient Earls of Ross. Craig-an-Fhiach, or Raven's Rock, lies to the westward, and pre- sents a bold perpendicular front, from which a loud and distinct echo is heard. Near to it, is a very strong chalybeate called Saint's Well. Another spring, on the north-east side of Knock- Farril, bears the name of John the Baptist's, — the water of which is of the purest kind, and till within the last fi% years was supposed to possess a miraculous virtue. It used to be resorted to by sick peo- ple and maniacs, who always left on a neighbouring bush or tree a bit of coloured cloth or thread as a relic* Loch-Ussie lies to the south of Knock- Farril. It contains se- veral small islands, and is surrounded with a young thriving plantation. Kenneth Oure, whose sayings are still held in great repute by the common people, resided in its neighbourhood. He attributed his power of foretelling future events to the posses- • Some derive the name of the parish from this well, the water of which was by Wily of einiiieiicc called /'*«ar dibhc^ \. c. cold drink or refreshment. FODDERTY. 247 sion of a beautiful white stone resembling a pearl, but much larg- er. It is said that, shortly before his death, he threw it into Loch- Ussie, predicting that it would be found many years afterwards in the stomach of a pike, by one who, in consequence, should be also endowed with the gift of prophecy. Above Dunglass, is a low mound covered with green sward, and surrounded by a well defin- ed circle of forty feet diameter. It seems to be ^fniry ring. The grass of the circle is greener and fresher than that in the middle, — a phenomenon which is supposed to be occasioned either by lightning, or by a kind of fungus, which breaks and pulverizes the soiL The views from all the eminences in the parish are extensive «ind striking, but especially from those to the north. Behind, rises the stupendous Ben-Wyves, it.s top often covered with clouds and storm; in front, is Knock- Farril; and beneath, lies the beautiful vale of StrathpefTer, with its gently winding road, its well-cultivated fields, its tall ancestral trees, its venerable-looking castle, and its neat dwelling-houses. Stretching the eye to the westward, there appears nothing but one vast assemblage of conical topped hills of the wildest and most rugged description ; while on the east, are to be seen the town of Dingwall, part of the Frith of Cromarty, and the rich landscape which surrounds the Castle of Tulloch. The view, as a whole, is one of the most varied and magnificent, and includes the heights of Inverness-shire rising successively one above another, until they are lost from sight in the far-distant clouds. Meteorology, — Climate, according to Dr Ure, is the prevailing constitution of the atmosphere relative to heat, wind, and moisture. There is considerable humidity in the high grounds of this parish, and the cold at times is very intense. In the lower parts, however, the air is mild and genial. Even in winter, this is not unfrequently the case in the \'icinity of the spa. Hills surround it in all direc- tions, the sinuosity of the valley breaks the force of the cold east- erly winds, — while those from the west are deprived of much of their moisture by the heath-clad hills over which they pass ; and besides, the gradual rising slope of this district elevates it into a kind of mid-air, which is always pure and invigorating. During the greater part of the year, the wind blows from between south-west and north-west, and at the time of the equinoxes is generally accom- panied with rain. There are occasionally strong gales from the east and north-east, but the most violent proceed from the former points. Thunder is seldom heard. The temperature in summer 248 ROSS AND CROMARTY. is often equal to, and at times greater than, that experienced in Enghmd; but in spring and autumn, it is subject to sudden changes, which are severely felt. The climate, as a whole, however, is one of the purest and most salubrious in great Britain, which accounts for the longevity of the people, and the fewness of the diseases which prevail among them. The healthiness of the parish has been much increased by the general system of drainage begun by- Major M'Kenzie, Fodderty, in 1811, in consequence of which, what was formerly in a state of marsh and meadow now yield lux- uriant crops of grain, and the grounds which used often to be cover- ed with mildew have been almost, if not entirely, freed from it Hydrography. — The parish is well supplied with water. Besides numerous springs which are chiefly perennial, there are also many mineral springs — some pure chalybeate, and others strongly impreg- nated with hydrogen gas. Of the latter kind, two at the west end of the strath have been long known for their medicinal qualities, which they seem to derive from the bituminous rocks, mixed with beds of shale abounding with pyrites or sulphuret of iron, through which the water flows. An imperfect analysis of these springs was given in the Philosophical Transactions for 1772. That by Dr Thom- son of Glasgow in 1 824 is as follows : " There are two wells," says he, " at a little distance from each other. The temperature of the lower well, on the 24th June, was 39°, and that of the upper 39|°. The day was rainy, and the tem- perature of the air rather under 60°. Both had the smell of sul- phuretted hydrogen gas. But the upper spring was obviously stronger than the lower. The specific gravity of these wells was as follows : Upper well, 1.00193 Lower welly 1.00091 " An imperial gallon of the upper spring was found to contain Sulphuretted hydrogen gas, - - 26.167 cubic iuch«s. Sulphate of soda, - - - 67.770 grains. Sulphate of lime, ... . 39.454 do. Common salt, - - . 24.728 do. Sulphate of magnesia, ... 6.242 do. " An imperial gallon of the water attached to the pump-room yielded Sulphuretted hydrogen gas, - 1«3.659 cubic inches. " The saline contents were similar to those of the upper spring, but in the proportion to them of 7 to 9, Sulphate of .soda, - - - ,V2. 710 grains. Sulphate of lime 30.686 do. Common salt, - - - - 19.233 do. ^'u1phatc of magnesia, • . - 4.85.5 do. i FoDDianv. 249 " The upper spring is more strongly impregnated with sulplm- retted hydrogen gas than Moffat wells ; but the lower sprin«T is a good deal weaker." Strathpeffer Sp^i was brought into groat celebrity by Dr Tho- mas Morrison of Elsick and Disblair, in Aberdeenshire ; a gentle- man who had previously tried almost every other spa in the king- dom. He gave it as his opinion, that this was the most valuable of the whole, and, in describing the climate, his usual expression was, " the balsamic air of Strathpeffer." At his suggestion, the proprietor built, in 1819, a handsome pump-room over the lower well, 40 feet long by 20 feet broad, in which there is an excellent full drawn likeness of Dr Morrison, done by George Watson, Edinburgh. It cost L. 125 Sterling, and was paid for in suhscrip-' tions of from one to ten guineas by the visitors, out of grateful re- spect to Dr Morrison for his able and gratuitous services. The season for drinking the water extends from the beginning of May to the middle or end of October. It is found to be high- ly beneficial in all cases of ill health which result from a relaxed state of the sjstem, especially in the great variety of disorders oc- casioned by nervous debility ; in gouty, rheumatic^ scrofulous, and cutaneous complaints ; in affections of the kidneys and bladder, the water being highly diuretic ; in oases of dyspepsia, and for consti- tutions which have suffered by long residence in tropical chmatcs. It is prejudicial, however, to those whose ailments are attended with any degree of inflammation or fever. Its specific gravity ap- proximates to that of the mineral waters on the banks of the Rhine; from which circumstance, large quantities of it can be taken without oppressing the stomach, or irritating the system. It is quickly digested, and works its way gradually yet thoroughly into the constitution, on which it acts as a mild alterative. After tak- ing a course of the sulphureous water, it is generally of advantage to follow it up with a course of clialybeate, of which there is a spring close to the pump-room, and many others in the neighbour- hood. There is no doubt but the pure dry bracing air which cir- culates around this district, and the beauty of the scenery, by tempting invalids to walk abroad, contribute in a great measure to their restoration to health. The regulations are, that all ladies and gentlemen put down their name upon arrival, and pay 2s. each week during their at- tendance ; that those drinking the water at the upper or lower well, but not attending the pump-n)oni, pay Is. as above ; and that 250 ROSS AND CllOMARTY. all strangers taking only one glass in the pump-room, pay 6d. The allowance to the well-keeper is voluntary. On week-days the pump-room is open from G to 9 a. m., 12 to 2 p. m. and 5 to 7 in the evening. It is shut on Sabbath days from 9 a. m. to 5 p. M. The poor have the water gratis, and are accommodated with a comfortable room attached to the upper well. They receive un- remitted and disinterested attention from John M^Kenzie, Esq. M. D., Kinellan, who acts in this quarter in his professional capa- city of consulting physician. The public prints are regularly supplied by the proprietor. Within the last four years a penny-post has been established. Bread, meat, poultry, eggs, vegetables and fruit are to be got in the neighbourhood. During the drinking season, a coach runs twice a day to Dingwall, which is connected with another that goes to Inverness in the morning and returns in the evening. Since the spa has come so much into repute, a number of re- spectable-looking buildings have been erected for the accommoda- tion of visitors. Through the benevolent exertions of J. E. Gor- don, Esq. late Member for Dundalk, an institution has also been established for the benefit of the poor who resort thither from a distance. It is capable of accommodating fifty at one time, and is to be opened in the course of next year. The hotel at Blar-na- ceaun, which has been recently built, within half a mile of the pump- room, is not surpassed by any in the country ; and there is also a comfortable inn on the east side, where strangers receive every convenience and attention. Geology. — As is usually the case, in the high grounds of the pa- rish, which present a bold front and outline, only the primary rocks are to be met with, and of these the most frequent is gneiss. The south side of the valley abounds in red sandstone and conglomerate, while on the north, the rock is bluish and slaty, exhibiting in many places swinestone of a blackish brown colour, which on being rubbed gives out a fetid urinous odour. In the direction of the spa, the rock begins to assume the appearance of a dark calcareo- bituminous schist, soft and foliated, and mixed with beds of shale abounding with pyrites. On the north-west and north, are several appearances of coal. Some extracted about seventy years ago was found to be of a clear black colour, and remarkably in- flammable. Neither of these places, the one lying in the vicinity of Castle- Leod, and the other near the river Sgiah, at the foot of Wyves, have been considered worthy of being worked, as the coal FODDERTY. 251 found in them does not seem to belong to the true coal forma- tion. * The land towards Dingwall is heavy, approaching to clay. To the westward, it presents in many places a fine free loam or mould, partly black and partly brown, having a swincstonc or gravelly subsoil. And on the south side of the parish, it is generally black with a very retentive bottom, which renders it extremely wet in winter. Botany, — The less ordinary botanical specimens which have been noticed are, the Pinguicula iusUanica and Melampyrum syU vaticum^ near Castle Leod, the Linn are visited by a kind of itinerant Independents, who baptise the children of all and sundry who apply to them, whether the parents be church members or not. The population of Ardross, though removed, at a distance of from six to twelve miles, from the parish church, in general attend regularly, even in winter. The sittings are or ought to be free; but it is believed that the feuars in the diffe- rent villages, do pay a small sum annually for their sittings, — which is not, however, given to the poor, as it is thought it should be. The manse was built in 1 825, and is large and commodious. There arc two small glebes, one adjoining the manse, of four English acres, of good and fertile soil, — the other is contiguous to the ruins of an old kirk, called Noinikil, (the cell or chapel of St Ninian), and consists of about an acre and a-half, in three different divisions, which are let by the minister to a tenant in the neighbourhood. How this glebe came to be so curtailed, cannot now be ascertained. There is no grass glebe, — which is felt to be a serious inconvenience; but the ministers of Rosskeen seem to have disliked litigation, and to have submitted to privations, rather than claim, at the risk of an expensive law-suit, what was their undoubted right The stipend is 1 6 chalders, half meal half barley, and L. 10 for communion elements. An augmentation was given in 1822, dur- ing the life of the late incumbent ; but it was less than it would otherwise have been, from the cry of agricultural distress so called, which was particularly loud ^nd lugubrious, at the period referred to ; whereas, we have thought that d very simple remedy might be ttOSSKEEN. 277 found for that distress, without injuring the tenantry, or curtailing the stipends of the clergy, and that is by lowering the rents, as has late- ly been done by a Noble proprietor in this parish. But 16 ehaldcrs in 1822, and for some years after, were equal to 24 ehaldcrs for the last two or three years, and we have been simple enough to suppose, that the low price of grain furnishes an argument for the increase of the number of bolls awarded to the clergy, whose stipends have been so greatly reduced of late. Divine service is conducted in English and Gaelic The ministers in this part of the country lecture and proach in Gaelic, .each Lord's day, and also preach regularly an English sermon, that is, three dis- courses each Sabbath, except for a part of the winter season ; and yet, we have cause to lament that real religion does not flou^i^.h, as might be expected where the truth is preached. The number of communicants is about 120. We have thus fewer communicants than our southern neighbours ; but we are inclined to believe that we have both more religion, and more morality, and are more in- clined to fear God, and honour the King, and less disposed to med- dle with those who are given to change. But still, we must confess that there is a manifest departure, among all ranks, from that strict- ness and integrity, and genuine holiness, which in the olden time characterized the natives of our northern clime. We would pray for a revival of rehgion in every corner of our land. There is an Association for religious purposes in this parish, which since its establishment, about thirteen years ago, has given upwards of L, 500 to various societies, — Bible, Missionary, and Educational. Succession of Ministers, — It appears from the records of the presbytery of Tain, which commence in 1707, that the Episcopal incumbent of Rosskeen retained his living: throuufh the influence, DO as is supposed, of the Jacobitical gentry in the parish and neigh- bourhood. In the presbytery records, there is not even an allusion to the parish of Rosskeen, until the death of the Episcopalian in- cumbent in 1714 ; and then the parish is noticed, and active exer- tions made to secure a pious and efficient minister. The person chosen was Mr Daniel Bethunc, minister of Ardersicr, who was inducted into Rosskeen, on the 23d April 1717. He was a man eminently pious and successful in winning souls to Christ. He died the 16th March 1754. He was succeeded by his son, John Be- thune, a man celebrated for his literary attainments, and ho- noured with the degree of D. D., a distinction which seldom falls to 278 ROSS AND CHOMARir. the lot of Highland clergymen, owing, we suppose, to their su- perior modesty and self-denial, rather than to their inferior at- tainments, or because their metropolitan brethren are more ready to monopolize these honours than to bestow them on those who, when out of sight, are out of mind, except when a vote to pro- mote a party or partial object is required. We have seen two vo- lumes of philosophical essays on various subjects by Dr Bethune. He died the 15th April 1774. He was succeeded by Mr John Calder, minister at Weem, in Perthshire, who is said to have been singularly pious, and possessed of ver}' popular talents. He was inducted on the 24th September 1775, and died 1st June 1783. Mr Thomas Urquhaii; was inducted 1st September 1784; died 17th May 1812. He was very much opposed at his induction, but is now generally said to have been a good and benevo- lent man, and of a meek and quiet disposition. Mr John Ross, minister of Logie Easter, was inducted 16th June 1813. He was a man of talent and sound evangelical views. He was translated to Kosskeen in his old age, much to the dissatis&ction of those he left, and of those among whom he was settled. He died 8th Fe- bruary 1824. Mr David Garment, the present incumbent, was translated from the New Gaelic Chapel, Duke Street, Glasgow, and admitted assistant and successor on the 14th March 1822.* Education, — There are in the parish one parochial school, two supported by societies, and three by school fees, which are trifling, and also ill paid. The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and perhaps his fees do not exceed L. 3 per annum. There are also two Sabbath schools in the parish. Library. — A parochial library has been lately established, and seems to be already in a flourishing state. It is hoped that it will be the means of creating gradually, among the humbler classes of our population, a greater taste for reading than at present exists, and of thus aiding in the difiusion of useful knowledge. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid, is 140. The annual amount of contributions for their relief, arising from church collections, mortcloth money, &C, is from L. 50 to L. 60. There is no assessment for the poor * 1 1 is a curious fiict« though sufficiently explained by what has been said above, that there is in this parish more than one person, wlio has seen ercry Presbyterian minister in it since the Revolution. Tlie comfort which the present incumbent, when in rather a delicate state of health, some years ago, received from one of these octogenarians, was, that he had seen six ministers in Rosskeen, and very likely he would see the seventli. 3 KOSSKEEN. 271) in this part of the country, which lays often a heavy tax on the minister, especially when the heritors happen to be non-resident. Dr Whyte of Bombay, grandson of one of the former ministers of Rosskeen, left L. 2000 to the poor of the parish, the interest to be given, in certain specified proportions, to the modest poor. In general, none except the miserably poor ever think of ai)ply- ing for parochial relief. Fairs. — There are five fiiirs, held annually at Invergorden ; in February, April, August, October, and December. /fiTU.— There are no less than 24 inns and alehouses, 15 of which, by far too many, are in the village of Invergordon. Drunk- enness can, however, by no means be imputed as a general vice, to the people. Fuel. — The fuel used by the humbler classes is peats, of which abundance can be easily procured. By the wealthier inhabitants, coals (English) are used, as they can be obtained here at a very moderate price. Miscellaneous Observations. In many respects, this parish has been improved within the last forty years ; but the depopulation of the country by large farms, is a serious evil, and is likely to bring along with it consequences which the landed interest seem not to have contemplated. There is no long- er an independent peasantry. The morals of the people are deterio- rated by the loss of independence, and their spirits embittered by what they deem oppression. The ties which united master and tenant are severed ; and when the time comes, to which we look forward with fearful anticipations, it will, we fear, be found, that an error has been committed, by grasping too much, at the risk of sooner or later losing all. October 183a PARISH OF TAIN.* PRESBYTERY OF TAIN, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. CHARLES CALDER MACKINTOSH, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries and External Appearance. — The parish of Tain, which is of a very irregular oblong figure, measures between 9 and 10 miles in length from north-east to south-west. Its greatest breadth is about 4^ miles, inclusive of a peninsula, which juts north-west- ward at the Meikle Ferry, above a mile into the sea ; exclusive of that peninsula, the breadth averages about 3 miles. On the east- ern side, the parish adjoins to those of Tarbat and Fearn ; on the west, to Edderton ; and on the south, to Loggie Easter ; while its northern boundary is formed by the waters of the Dornoch Frith, along which it stretches, with several curvings aud indentations, in a direction nearly east and west The parish, as to its external ap- pearance, separates itself into three distinctly marked districts. The first is a low sandy plain, of about four or five square miles in extent, somewhat resembling in shape a crescent or quarter moon ; the lesser or inner curve of which, constituting as it does the present coast-line, may be described as an extended variously-broken sand bank, rising in several parts above the sea level to a height of about 15 feet ; while the large or outer curve is marked by a sudden ele- vation of the land, (distinctly traceable almost from end to end of the parish,) in many places about 50 feet above the flat plain be- low, — presenting the appearance of a scarp or slope ; on the ridge of which, about a quarter of a mile distant from the sea, and overlooking the wide-stretched flat beneath, is situated the royal burgh from which the parish is designated. Terrace-like, along the top of this escarpment, lies the second and most important di- vision of the parish ; which, extending back towards the south- east, and upwards by a gentle slope towards the south and south- west, presents a highly cultivated and richly wooded territory to the view : while the third or upland district consists of several low * Diawii up by Mr William Taylor. 4 TAIN. 281 hills, forming part of a chain which constitutes the proper com- inencement of the IlighUinds, (so called in rehition to the greater part of Easter Ross.) The Hill of Tain, the highest summit in the parish, has been calculated from barometrical observations to be about 780 feet above the level of the sea. Of the three districts above described, the first has, for a period &r beyond the memory of man, been gradually lessening in consequence of a very perceptible yearly encroachment of the tide, more or less rapid in various parts, according to the nature and position of the soils it has had to remove or overflow. The ad- vance has been slowest over a portion of the plain situated at from two to four miles distance below the town, and known by the name of the Morrich mor ; which, accordingly, presents the appearance of a low promontory stretching far into the sea, as if to meet a somewhat similar headland, — the termination of a gently sloping hill, on the opposite Sutherland coast. On that coast, too, a precisely similar process of encroachment has been going on ; so that, although the Frith now measures several miles across, the remarkable fact has been preserved by tradition, that it was at one time possible to effect a passage over it at low water upon foot, by means of a plank thrown across the channel, where narrowed to a few feet by the above-mentioned promontories, which stretch towards one another in the form of a long sand- bank, broken in a single place, to afford a waterway for the rivers of the frith. This bank still remains visible at ebb-tide, extend- ing its yellow line amid the blue element around it ; and even when covered by the sea, it may yet be traced by the dlfTercnce of hue : but when the waters are agitated by the gentlest breeze, or when a ground swell, procursive of a storm, rolls in from the Ger- man Ocean, then is the ear arrested at the distance of many miles by the hoarse dashing of the breakers, as they boil and foam over the Gizzen Briggs ♦ in a long white band, amid the comparative calm of a shallow inland sea. Names, — The Gaelic names of the burgh and parish are Baile- Dhuichf or Duthus' town, and Sgire-Duichj or Duthus* parish ; — so called from the patron saint. The origin, however, of the more ancient and now more general name of Tain, (or, according event! an appropriate one, that tliiM trunslalcs tliu name into Wliizzin|r Bridges, lie appellation, DrochaiHan •o(\;'A, means probably the Water-wraith'x Bridge. The Gaelic •i^2 ROSS AND CUOMAllTY. to the oldest orthographyj Thayne,) has long puzzled local etymo- logists. If we suppose it a corruption of a corrector form, Fayne^ the most probable root would be the same with that of Fendom, (in Gaelic nafdna^ the low grounds,) being a part of the above- mentioned sandy plain in which the town, it is said, was anciently situated ; or, if a Scandinavian origin be allowed, the Norse word thanidf signifying stretched, extended, (compare the Latin tenderer tenuisy and our own ihin^) affords a sufficiently plausible deriva- tion. The old Scottish title. Thane, seems an improbable etymon. Climate. — The climate of the parish shares the general charac- ter of mildness with the greater part of Easter Ross ; the cold of winter as well as the heat of summer being less intense than in many of the more southern districts of Scotland. The reason may perhaps be found partly in the general lie of the country, elevated itself but slightly, yet protected by the immediate neighbourhood of hills ; and partly in the nature of the soil, which, consisting chiefly of a loose alluvial mould, (finely divided, we may add, by cultivation,) seems fitted to resist any vei^ sudden changes of tem- perature. The air is pure and salubrious, and the inhabitants in general healthy. In consequence, however, of our nearness to the coast, the easterly winds — especially prevalent in the end of spring — acquire a keenness that renders pulmonary and rheumatic com- plaints of rather frequent occurrence ; other endemic diseases there are none, and epidemics rarely spread even in the town to any considerable degree. It may be mentioned, that during the prevalence of Asiatic cholera in Easter Ross, notwithstanding that it raged all around us, (and especially in our own village of Inver to an unheard of extent,) it did not enter the town at all. Hydrography, — The Dornoch Frith, which forms the northern boundary of the parish, is formed by the river Shin and its tribu- taries, of which the channel may be distinctly traced all along to the Gizzen Briggs. This bar seems to mark the position of the coast line, as it existed ere the tide waves had yet spread them- selves over the surrounding plain. The breadth of the frith is about five miles immediately below the town ; but to such a distance does the sea retire at ebb-tide, that it then probably mea- sures scarcely three. The depth ol' the channel varies from seven fathoms, at the entrance, to two at the bridge of Bonar, to which point, a distance of fourteen miles, it may at high water be navi- gated : the navigation, however, is difficult, in consequence of the numerous concealed sand-banks, (of ^^hich the older inhabitants TAIN. 283 remember to have seen some in the form of islands, though they are now, except occasionally at low water, entirely covered by the encroaching sea ;) and our only harbour is that afforded by the le- vel sands, left dry by the receding tide. At the north-western extremity of the parish, the frith suddenly narrows by the jutting forward of the two opposite headlands of the Meikle Ferry ; though immediately on, it again finds entrance into this and the adjoining parish, in the form of a bay called the Sands of Edderton. We have no rivers, except an inconsiderable trout-stream, which we dignify with the name. The springs are numerous, especially in the uplands, and in the western part of the terrace district ; which latter seems to owe its superiority over the eastern, in this respect, to the presence of an overlying stratum of gravel, there awanting. The water they afford is in general considered excellent, notwith- standing that they contain a large proportion of earthy matter in solution. Several in the upland district circ weakly calybeate, and are generally accounted medicinal, though rarely resorted to as such. Perhap& the most remarkable spring in the parish, is one called St Mary's Well, which is every day covered for seve- ral hours by the salt sea ; on the retiring of which, its refresh- ing waters may be procured. It was, of old, reckoned a specific remedy for consumption ; though we believe it was essential to its eflScacy, that it should be drunk early in the morning, and upon the spot ; and as its very name sufficiently indicates a Roman Catho- lic age, we may probably enough trace in that belief, ihefrauspiaotR priesthood, anxious to secure to ecclesiastical benediction the honour due to the bracing influence of early rising, pure air, and exercise* Gtology. — The oldest geological formations of the parish are entirely secondary ; the hills which constitute the upland district being composed wholly of sandstone, mostly white, though oc- casionally red : its strata are in some parts nearly horizontal ; but in others, as especially at the quarries on the hill of Tain, they dip eastward at an angle varying from 1 5° to 25^. The several hills present nothing remarkable in their external as- pect, but slope gradually down, until they blend almost imper- ceptibly with the lower or terrace lands ; saving only towards the western boundary of the parish, where this terrace formation has no existence, and the hill reaches to within a few yards of the bay already described under the name of the Edderton sands. Here^ too, as well as farther east, the sea is at present slowly ad- vancing ; but evidently, this advance is not the first that it has made ; 284 ttOSS AND CROMAUTY. for the magnificent wall of rock, to near the base of which it has now attained, is manifestly the result of the action of the waves, at a |)e- riod whose distance we have no data for calculating, beating, in their line of greatest advance, against this farthest projecting portion of the sandstone hill. The traveller along the high road westward, as he issues from a territory that promises little to excite admiration, is suddenly astonished to find himself walled in upon his left, by a lofty precipice consisting of immense masses of stratified stone, piled one upon another in regular, ascent, by the giant hand of na- ture, — in one part cleft and scooped away into the form of a ra- vine, in another jutting directly out upon his path, and perhaps exciting a momentary shudder, as, looking up from beneath the spot, he beholds an enormous projecting mass seeming ready to tum- ble from its elevation of forty or fifty feet upon his head ; while at the same time, the rich clothing afforded by the ornamental trees with which nature and art have invested the once naked rocks, the ivy mantling, in many a place, over the surface of the steep, and everywhere here and there the birches that, rooted in the very edge of some beetling fragment, project their slight forms overhead, — confer an air of softness that renders it difficult to tell whether the prevailing character be the beautiful or the sublime. Over the sandstone formation now described, there lies a stra- tum of red clay, varying in depth from a few inches near the summit of the hill, to at least 50 or 60 feet, as descending sea- ward over the gentle slope of the middle district, we reach the ridge of the escarpment which separates it from the plain below. In this stratum it is, that we find boulders of most frequent occurrence, and that in greater abundance always, as we approach nearer the sandstone underneath, — whether by digging down to meet it, by ascending the hill to where it almost reaches the surface, or, last- ly, by proceeding along the shore westward to where the sandy and terrace districts gradually dwindle away. These boulders, which are composed partly of gneiss, but chiefly of a kind of granite, of which no rocks are to be found nearer than the western coast of Ross-shire, and which often attain a very large size, (one block, especially, known as the Big Stone of Morangie^ containing at least 1400 or 1500 cubic feet,) seem to have been carried hither after the deposition, but before the hardening of the clayey stratum. Immediately over it (save that, in some places, a middle layer of gravel is interposed) lies a rich soil, composed principally of a mixture of clay and sand, and capable of cultivation. TAIN. 285 But) in the extensive low-ground wbicli adjoins the sea, and which topographical ap]>earances alone sufficiently indicate as the subject of a cyclical overflow and retrocession of the tide, other strata have found place. There is first a layer of peat^moss, varying from 10 to 18 inches in depth, the result apparently of the decomposition of a forest which once occupied the plain ; for both at the eastern boundarv, where the moss reaches the surface, and is dug for fuel, as also along the course of " the river," when a freshet has washed away its channel to an unusual depth, and even where the tide now ebbs and flows, at low water, the roots of large trees, (among which, oaks are said to be most fre- quent,) are occasionally exposed. About the confines of this pa- rish with that of Fearn, there was lately found in the moss a bronze battle-axe, now in the possession of Mr Mackinlay of the Tain Academy ; and in digging a new channel, a few years since, for part of the above-mentioned stream, a branching deer's horn of extraordinary size was exhumed. Above the moss, succeeds a stratum of fine sand, which constituted the bed of the sea when it last covered this luniform plain, forming by the action of its waves the escarpment which bounds it ; thereafter, in the slow retiring of the water, the sandy level was left to view, to bo in time covered by a cultivable alluvial soil ; but the tide is again advancing to re-shroud it with its mantle, and to reclaim its own* Some parts, indeed, have been already wrested from the use of man, and converted into barren downs, by the sea sand with which they have been overblown ; especially the large district of the Morrich mor^ which the older inhabitants re- member to have seen pastured as a common, and which wiis turn- ed (it is said in a single night) into an arid waste. All along the coast, the horizontal layer of shells, which the sea is uncovering in its advance, distinctly marks the level of the bed which it for- merly occupied. Walking to the Morrich mor, our stc()s arc on the remains of a former age, ground into powder by the tread of men ; and where in some places the banks have been blown away by the wind, a rich treasure of beautiful shells has been disclosed, — now, however, robbed of all its finest specimens, by frequent resort. Zooloffy. — It is not known whether any species of animals formerly existing in the parish, have become extinct. At least one, however, which did not formerly exist in it, name- ly, the rat, has been introduced within the last few years, and has, to the annoyance of the inhabitants, rapidly multi- 286 ROSS AND CROMARTY. plied. The Frith, properly so called, contains few important kinds of fish, with the exception of the salmon which pass up to the rivers ; all others, poor and sickly from the freshness of the water, are seldom sought for. Beyond the bar of the Gizzen Briggs, however, the waters abound with various species, of which the most important, in an economical view, are the cod, haddock, whiting, flounder, and skate ; to which may be added, the halibut, turbot, crowner, dog-fish, and many others, besides some small trout to be found in the streamlets of the parish. The principal shell-fish in the bay (besides many that are less known) are mus- sels, cockles, whelks, and crabs, all occasionally used as food ; but the mussel alone is turned to any great account, existing as it does in great abundance upon the sand-banks of the Frith, whence it is yearly removed by fishermen, to be employed for bait While on this head, it may be mentioned, that a few years ago there were stranded, west of the town, on the grounds of Mr Ross of Cromarty, a number of large porpoises, amounting to about a hun- dred, which were frightened, it is supposed, into the bay by a thunder storm which had occurred the evening before. Woods. — Most of the wood grown in the parish is the Scotch fir, with occasional beltings of larch, elm, beech, ash, and birch. All of these species thrive well, except where exposed to the keen sea-breeze. Tlie estate of Tarlogie contains the finest old trees in the parish, many of them of a venerable appearance and ma- jestic height. IL — Civil History. Ancient State of the Parish. — Tain appears to have been, in an- cient times, a place of considerable importance. From a well-authen- ticated document immediately to be mentioned, it is found that the Burgh dates its constitution from the latter half of the eleventh century, having been originally privileged by Malcolm Canmore, — a king celebrated as the successor of Macbeth, and son of the murdered Duncan ; celebrated, too, as the introducer of several new customs and dignities into Scotland ; — and claiming to be regarded farther as among the first * European sovereigns who adopted the enlightened policy of establishing free mu- nicipal corporations. At what period the town became an im- portant ecclesiastical seat, we know not, nor whether its connection with St Duthus (who is said by Sir Robert Gordon, in his History of the Family of Sutherland, to have been Bishop of Ross about • Sec Robertson^ Charles V. Introductory Treatise, notes 15-^18. TAIN. 287 the year 1209, and to have been " a very godly man,") had al- ready existed by any special pastoral tie during his own lifetime, or whether it was only after his death and canonization that he became ^* patron of St Duthus his chapel, beside the town of Tayn." We can only conjecture, therefore, that it may have been a chief seat of the Bishoprick of Ross, after its foundation by David L, the son of Malcolm, in the twelfth century. At all events, we learn from the same document already referred to, that the burgh was " under the special protection of the Apostolic See." Memorials of St Duthus. — In addition to the Gaelic appella- tions of the burgh and parish, several other names with us are compounded from that of the Saint, We have St Duthus' Fairs, St Duthus' Scalp, (namely, the mussel-scalp,) St Duthus' Cairn, St Duthus' Chapel, and St Duthus' Church ; besides that the burgh arms bear upon them the figure, and are inscribed with the title of Sanctus Duthncus. St Duthus' Chapel exists now only as a ruin, presenting a remarkable example of combined strength and simplicity of architecture. The materials of which it was built are of the granite blocks, with which the parish abounds, (and of which our fences are still generally composed,) cemented unsparingly with lime, which, having acquired a hardness scarcely inferior to that of the stone itself, has preserved much of the walls in a state of remarkable entireness, notwithstanding that they have stood roofless and exposed for full four centuries. How long pre- vious to this it had been built, and whether before or after the death of its patron saint, we know not. The ruins are situated on an eminence in the sandy plain, in which it has been mentioned that the town once stood. This edifice was of old a celebrated sanctuary, to which it is said that crowds used to resort ; but, as it has l>een remarked, that while ^^ the evil that men do lives after them, the good is oft interred with their bones," so of the only three instances in which its use as such has been recorded, in two its sacred character was violated, and in the third it was made the instrument for the accomplishing of an evil design. The Jirst of these events wsis in the year 1306, when King Robert Bruce, whose fortunes were at this period reduced to their lowest ebb, had sent his queen and daughter for safety to the stronghold of Kildrummie in Marr ; whence, dreading a siege, they betook themselves by flight to St Duthus' siinctuary : but the then all-powerful Earl of Ross, deterred by no feelings of honour or of religion, seized their persons, and delivered them to 288 ROSS AND CROMARTY. the English. The queen did not recover her liberty until eight years thereafter. * The second, though a less known circumstance in the history of our country, was of more importance in relation to our private concerns. There is related with great minuteness by Sir Robert Gordon, the history of an outrage by M*Niell, laird of Criech in Sutherland, who having had a quarrel with Mowat, laird of Freswick in Caithness, by chance encountered and defeated him in the year 1427 or 1429, and ])ursuing him to the chapel of St Du- thus at Tain, there slew both him and his company, and burnt the sanctuary. The popular tradition here is less circumstantial, having preserved only an outline of the facts, the atrocity of which it has considerably lessened. It states merely that some robbers had fled hither from the reach of justice ; and that their pursuers, to avoid a direct violation of the sanctuary, instead of forcibly dragging them from its covert, adopted the expedient of burning it over their heads. The tradition, at all events, accounts for what in the historical narrative appears a wanton act of impiety ; while the classical reader may be reminded of the somewhat similar evasion of direct sacrilege, which attended the death of Pausanias. After this disaster, the parish appears to have remained without a permanent place of worship for a period of more than forty years ; for St Duthus' Church dates from the year 1471. It is situated on the brink of the escarpment so often referred to, in the middle of the town ; which it would seem, therefore, had already changed its site. It is a large handsome building, so strongly constructed, that though the roof and interior have undergone many repairs, the walls promise to endure far longer than many of the mostmo^ dern erections. The windows are Gothic ; and there is placed outside, above one of the doors, a figure of St Duthus sculptured on stone in bas-relief; an inscription in church-text borders it all round, but is so eifaced as to be illegible. The third event we have mentioned, was a pilgrimage of King James V. to St Duthus' sanctuary about the year 1527, and, therefore, a century after the burning of the chapel ; (the former Statistical Account erroneously places it before it) The royal visitant, it appears, travelled barefoot; and a rough footpath, leading across a moor in the upper part of the parish, and known by the name of the King's Causeway, — while it remains a proof of * Ilailes* Annals of Scotland. TAIN. 289 the uncmlized state of the country at that period, in that it possessed not a single available road in this direction, — remains a proof also of the then loyalty of the people, who hastily repaired to construct one for the accommodation of their king. Our gratiBcation, however^ is considerably lessened by knowing that the pilgrimage resulted from the instigation of James's Popish advisers, anxious to remove him from the influence of any applications that might be made to him for the life of Hamilton, the Scottish proto- martyr. Historical Documents* — The oldest existincf charter of the burgh of Tain is one granted by James VI. in the year 1587, followed by another in 1612. A third was afterwards issued by Charles IL In these we find reference made to former charters granted by the ancient Kings of Scotland, which, it is said in the first of James VI. above-mentioned, " were cruelly burnt by bar- barians and certain rebel subjects of Ireland fper barharos et quos^ dam rdelles suhditos IlibemitB^J as has been manifestly proved to us by authentic documents produced before us ;'' and on this fact are these new grants of confirmation founded. What these au- ihaUic documents were, we could have no room for conjecturing^ but for a fortunate discovery made in the year 1826, of a notarial copy of what we have every reason to believe must have been one of them, which now lies among the records of the Northern Insti- tution at Inverness. Its authenticity is unquestionable; for it bears every internal mark of it. It is an inquest held at Tltayne^ on the 20th of April 1439, by a jury of the highest names in the country, (of which the chief arc Alexander of Sutherland, Master of that Ilk, William Leslie, Sheriff of Inverness, Hugh Ross of Balnagown, and George Munro of Fowlis,) under the seal of Alexander Earl of Ross, and Lord of the Isles, King's justiciary north of the Forth, — for the purpose of ascertaining the antiquity and privileges of the burgh ; which accordingly is found to have been enfranchised by Malcolm Canmore, and confirmed in its rights by several of his successors. The inquest having thus taken place, ten or at most twelve years after the burning of the chapel, and for a purpose which nothing but the loss of charters could have rendered necessary ; knowing, too, on the authority of King James, that the charters were actually burnt by rebel Irish sub- jects,* — we are naturally led to identify the two events, and to * Irish, it 19 well known, was of old synonymous with CcUic^ just as the Gaelic language is still occnsinnally termed Erse. There can l>c no objection, therefore, to BOSS AND CROMARTY. T 290 ROSS AND CROMARTV. suppose that, for security's sake, the sanctuary may have been chos- en as the fittest place for the preservation of those documents, and that with it they may have perished. The high rank of the jurors sufficiently manifests the importance then attached by the country round to the full authentication of the burghal rights. Parochial Registers, — There are no trustworthy parochial regis- ters now extant, of a date beyond 1765 ; at which period we find it recorded that general discontent had been raised by the total want of any registration for nine years before ; since that time (ex- cept that there is no record of deaths) they have been tolerably well kept The burgh records commence in 1734. Antiquities. — Almost the only antiquity worthy of note in the parish, besides the chapel and church of St Duthus above-men- tioned, is the beautifully carved oaken pulpit of the latter, which was gifted by " the good regent" Murray, to the inhabitants of Tain, for their zeal in the cause of the Reformation. In what this zeal was displayed, we know not ; we have learned only the gratifying fact ; and we know that it did not, as in other parts of Scotland, lead to the demolition or even to the defacement of the ancient church ; on which several Roman Catholic figures are still to be seen. We regret to state, however, that after St Du- thus' church was vacated, between twenty and thirty years ago, it was for a considerable time left in such an exposed state, that boys were able to enter, and wantonly to break down the wood-work of the interior; and thus, ere it was observed, the pulpit itself, the memorial of our ancestors^ piety, received more injury from their descendants' negligence, than did the edifice which contains it, from the disturbances and shocks of a religious revolution. Expe- rience has now taught us better to guard this fine relic, mutilated as it is. Modem condition. — Of the more modern history of the parish, scarcely a fact worthy of commemoration has been preserved. Of its ancient loyalty, and more lately of its Protestantism, proof has been given ; both feelings appear to have kept ground. At the period of the Restoration, the minister of Tain was one of a noble band oi four in the synod of Ross, who preferred suffering depo- sition and imprisonment to maintaining place with a polluted con- science. The example of the shepherd cannot have been lost upon applying the title to McNeill and his followers, who, we know, were actually pro« claimed rebels. Besides, James before his accession to the English throne, had no subjects in Ireland; nor, if he had, is it conceivable how Tain should have become the seat of their ravages. 4 TAIN. 291 the flock. And ever since the death or displacement of the last Episcopalian minister, the church here has been filled by a suc- cession of pious clergymen, whose names and characters are still held in the affectionate remembrance of many of the peo- ple ; the consequence of which has been a zealous attachment on their part to the Church of Scotland, and (in no slight degree, perhaps, from the same cause) a disinclination to revolu- tionary or republican sentiments. At the time of the Rebellion, we 6nd they suffered a little from their loyalty. The burgh records inform us, that the inhabitants were greatly distressed by a large body of " the rebel army," (so it is boldly worded at the very time,) quartering for several weeks in the town, and exacting money and necessaries under all pretences ; and the town-council were forced, under pain of military extortion, at a day's warning, to muster L. 60 (about half their gross revenue) for the supply of their guests. As far as can be traced, there have never been many resident large proprietors in the parish, since much of the land belonged to the burgh itself, and much to gentlemen possessed of additional pro- perty in other parts of the country. Most of the land-owners, and in truth most of the people, bore the name of Ross : or, to speak more correctly, almost every body possessed two surnames, by one of which (in general a patronymic beginning with Mac) he was universally known in conversation, though he deemed himself called upon to change it to Ross, or sometimes to Munro, when- ever he acquired any status in society, or beccime able to write his name. (Easter Ross, it may be observed, was of old divided between these two clans ; and their two chiefs are among the names of the jurors we have above quoted as present at the inquest in 1437.) From this circumstance of each individual's being furnished with two appellations, seems partly to have arisen the remark, which has found its way into Encyclopedias, that Tain is famous for nick- names ; but, partly, the remark was once true ; for, when the by- names of those who had risen in society were forgotten, it beciune absolutely necessary to invent others, (and those often of the odd- est description,) to distinguish the multitudes of Rosses and Muu- Toes. Modem Buildings. — The material now employed in every con- struction above that of a hut, is the fine white sandstone from the hill. The Royal Academy, which was built about twenty-five years ago, is one of the handsomest and chastest erections in the north of 292 R08S AND CROMARTY. Scotland ; and is greatly set off by its fine large play-ground, which has been of late tastefully planted, walled in, and railed. The new church is a substantial, but rather heavy-looking edifice ; a tower is its great desideratum. There was erected in 1825, a handsome town and county house, close to the antique five- spired prison- tower, which forms the most prominent object in the town : unfor- tunately, it was not constructed fire-proof ; and the upper rooms, being appropriated for the confinement of debtors, were, a few years ago, by some accident, inflamed. Several lives were lost, and the building was almost burnt to the ground. It has not since been re- built, and what was once an ornament, is now the greatest defor- mity in the place. III. — Population. The populadoii in 1755 was 1870 1811 2384 1821 2861 1831 3078 1836 2915; males, 1299; females, 1616. The decrease during the last five years may be ascribed in part to the ravages of cholera in the village of Inver, where above a third of the inhabitants were swept off in -a few weeks ; and partly to emigration ; while some diminution of trade is thought, besides, to have taken place in the town, in consequence of tho non-resi- dence at present of many of the neighbouring proprietors, and per- haps, too, from the number of shops recently opened in the sur- rounding villages. However occasioned, it is certain that the value of houses in the town has, within the last few years, fallen nearly a half. Population in the to\vn» - 1 725 Inver >'illnge, 151 the country, - 1039 Of these, there are under 15 years of age, 1005 bctudxt 15 and 30, 783 30 and 50, 641 50 and 70, 396 upwards of 70, 90 For the \afst seven years, the yearly average of marriages has been 22 or 23 ; and of births, 71. There are no insane, fatuous, nor deaf and dumb individuals in the parish ; the blind do not, it is believed, at present exceed 2 in number. Number of illegitimate births in the parish, during last three years, 15 ; but this includes several cases that were afterwards followed by marriage of the parties. Land^'Oumers. — Besides the burgh itself, there are twelve land- owners possessing property above the yearly value of L. 50, viz. Hugh Rose Ross of Cromarty ; R, B. iEneas Macleod of Cad- TAIN. 293 boll ; Hon. Mrs Hay Mackenzie of Cromarty, patroness of the pa- rish; the Duchess Countess of Sutherland: Sir Charles Rossof Bal- nagown; George Mackenzie Ross of Aldie; Hugh Ross of Knock- breck; Fitzgerald Murray of Pitculzean; Daniel Ross of Hartfield; Donald Kennedy of Bogbain ; Malcolm Fraser of North Glastul- lich ; and George Ross of Moorfarm. Only the two last named are permanently resident Languages. — The whole town and parish is at present nearly equally divided between the English and Gaelic languages. The latter is generally spoken in the country and in Inver village ; but the former, by the higher ranks in the country, and by almost every one in the town. Gaelic has of late rapidly lost ground ; in fact, it is rare to find a native of the town, under twenty or thirty years of age, able to speak it with ease; and it is never heard among the children on the streets. In the country, the change has not been quite so marked. The number of individuals able to speak Gaelic only, are, in town, QQ ; in country, 96; English only, in town, 100 ; in country, 36. If, however, we reckon those who are unable to speak or understand both languages with ease, each of these num- bers'*must be greatly increased. CharacteTj Ifc. — There is nothing very remarkable in the habits or character of the people. Their ancient spirit of loyalty has not quite died away, and a tendency to insubordination in any shape is seldom manifested ; while the general tone of feeling, we may add, is decidedly towards religion ; and though much of this is, doubtless, a habit of thinking transmitted from the generations gone by, yet much, it is believed, may be ascribed to the genuine workings of a living power, actuating individual minds, and through them leavening society in the mass. IV. — Industry. AgrleuUwre, — The number of acres in the parish, cultivated or uncultivated, has never been ascertained. A great proportion of the lands once belonged to the burgh ; most of them have been from time to time feued out at a rent of 6d. per acre ; and thus, within the last thirty or forty years, much additional ground has been brought into actual cultivation, and still more planted with thriving fir woods. All these lands were before considered by the in- habitants of the burgh as a common right, so that considerable re- sistance was made to the first attempts of the magistrates thus to deprive them of their ancient privilege of pasture. For a consider- able time back, almost all the available burgh land has in this way 294 ROSS AND CROMARTY. been parcelled out, to the extent of 4325 Scotch acres ; and ex-* cept the Morrich M5r, (which, as already mentioned, has been recently overblown with sand,) together with the quarries and mosses of the hill district, there now remains little or none of the burgh property open to the people, that is not too distant, or too barren to be made use of. The rent of arable land ave- rages about L. 1, 10s. per acre; in different districts, however, varying very considerably. The rate of farm-labour is about Is. a-day in winter, and is. 6d. in summer ; the total expense of a farm-servant amounts to about L. 22 per year. The general dura- tion of leases is nineteen years ; only that the fields around the town, (being in general cultivated by townsmen, and bringing a higher rem,) are let annually, or at very short terms. Agri- culture has, of late years, rapidly advanced. The improved sys- tems have been almost universally adopted, and crops are raised, scarcely if at all surpassed in quality, in any district of Scotland. The cultivation of wheat, in particular, has made rapid strides* Twenty or even ten years ago, it was dealt in only by a very few of the larger farmers ; while now, there is scarcely a cottar who does not grow some. It has been found to answer well for the soil ; and, in accordance with this, has been the quickness of its reception. There have been many improvements of late on the various estates, chiefly in the way of reclaiming waste land, draining, fencing, planting, &c. ; irrigation has been practised only in one large field belonging to Mr Ross of Cromarty, and in it (in consequence, it is thought, of the over-purity of the water,) the experiment has not been crowned with success. The same proprietor has contributed much to adorn the face of the country, by the tasteful manner in which he conducts his operations, so that beauty as well as profit may be the result. Quarries. — Those at present wrought are the common property of the burghers, being situated in the hill of Tain. The procuring of the finest white sandstone is attended with no expense but that of quarrying it. Fisheries, — The village of Inver, situated at the eastern extre- mity of the parish, is the only fishing station, although the town is oflen supplied, besides, fromjother quarters. Haddock and flounder are the staple kinds of fish ; cod, whiting, skate, are also found in abundance, as is herring in its season. Haddocks sell at the rata of one or two (sometimes even three or four) for Id. according to the season of the yea No salmon-fishings are carried on. The TAIN. 295 proprietor of those farther up the frith purchases the burgh's right to those opposite the town, at an annual rent of L. 10. The mus- sel-scalp is a more profitable source of income, although the pro- per mode of management is by no means well understood. It is resorted to, yearly, by great numbers of fishermen from the coast of Morayshire, who pay to the burgh at the rate of L. 2 per boat for the liberty of removing a cargo of the fish. The revenue hence derived is rather unequal, but averages about L. 150. Manvfacturea, — The only manufactories, properly so called, in the parish, are an iron-foundry, in which the various descriptions of cast-iron ware used in the country round are produced ; and a brewery, which supplies the most of the neighbourhood with excel- lent ale. The burn of Morangie, beside which it is placed, has been remarked by strangers, for the economy of power shewn in the ▼arious uses to which it is applied. After irrigating the field above- mentioned, it is employed to give motion separately to a sawing, a carding, a grinding, and a dyeing-mill, besides affording water to the brewery ; and all within the space of a few hundred yards. ^Tav^a^n.— There is no navigation carried on in the parish, except by ships hired for the purj^ose of carrying coal and lime, for the supply of the inhabitants ; by these, fir wood is frequently ex- ported to serve for coal-pit props. All other goods are for the most part shipped and landed at Cromarty or Invergorden, so that we are exposed to the disadvantage of a land carriage of eleven miles. V. — Parochial Economy. BurgK — The burgh of Tain serves as a market-town, not only for this parish, but for the whole surrounding district, and for a con- siderable part of Sutherlandshire ; and to this it seems to owe its ex- istence and prosperity, — little trade being carried on, save for the purposes of home consumption. Among the irregularly built towns of the north of Scotland, it used to be remarked for irregu- larity ; for every man seems to have placed his house, just as hap- pened to suit his private convenience. The same character still attaches to it, though in a less degree. The streets have been gra- dually straightened, and many of the more unsightly edifices pul- led down, though a principle of order is by no means even yet pre- dominant in the construction of new ones. The town is neither lighted, nor supplied with water ; for, though its gross revenue ave- rages L. 600, the other claims of expenditure in general exhaust the whole. 296 ROSS AND CKOMARTY. There are no villages in the parish besides Inver^ which con- tains merely a fishing population. Means of Communication. — The parish is well supplied in all directions with public roads, which together amount to twenty miles in extent. A mail coach passes daily from and to Inverness, and proceeds north to the Meikle Ferry ; and a mail gig runs daily between Tain and Bonar. There has been established lately another daily coach to Inverness, which, in consequence of its les- sened fares and more convenient hours, has even already increas- ed the number of stage travellers, and which accordingly has every prospect of success. The bridges, of which there are a consider- able number, on account of the numerous streamlets, are general- ly kept in good repair ; and so, in general, are our stone fences ; there are now almost no hedges, so much has the Scottish taste, in this respect, prevailed beyond even what we perceive it to have done, of old. Ecclesiastical State. — From the charter of Charles IL it appears that Tain was formerly a collegiate charge, — though this would appear not to have continued beyond the times of Episcopacy. It is now, however, anxiously wished by many, that some such arrangement should again be brought about ; as the almost equal division into Gaelic and English hearers, each class demanding at^ tention equal to what a single congregation would require, renders the field of ministration too arduous for any single clergyman. St Duthus' church, though now vacated, might, it is believed, at a moderate expense, be rendered a commodious place of worship for the Gaelic congregation. The new church was built in 1815, and is situated at the eastern extremity of the town, pretty near the centre of the parish. It was designed to accommodate 1200; and, though not constructed on the best acoustic principles, is, upon the whole, tolerably suitable. In St Duthus' church, all the sit- tings were free ; in this church none arc free. The average rent is 3s. The manse, a handsome building, a short distance above the town, was erected in 1824. The glebe attached is of the legal extent of four acres, worth about L. 1, 10s. per acre yearly. The stipend is 18 chalders, half barley and half oatmeal, payable by the fiars prices of the county. There is always a catechist in the parish, who has L. 3, 1 Os. of salary from the session-funds with what gra- tuities he may receive from the families he visits. The late cate- chist (who has died since this account has been commenced) enjoyed TAIN. 297 in addition, for the last few years of his hfe, an annuity of L. 7, 10s. rom the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. All the families in the parish, with the exception of 3 or 4, attend the Established Church. There may be, besides, 2 or 3 indivi- duals who attend a Secession chapel in a neighbouring parish. Religious and Charitahh Associations, — There are no societies for religious purposes belonging exclusively to the parish, though it is a chief seat of several. The Northern Missionary Society, which is intended to embrace in its range the shires of Inverness, Ross, and Sutherland, was established in 1800, and meets annually at Tain, Inverness, and Dingwall. The late Rev. Dr Mackintosh of Tain, who was, until his death in 1831, its valued secretary, and the late Rev. Alexander Fraser of Kirkhill, were the originators of the in- stitution. The annual subscription of 10s. 6d. is the condition of membership. The yearly contributions from the Tain district ave- rage from L. 70 to L. 80; of which sum, probably more than L.30 are from the parish itself. The Easter Ross Ladies' Missionary and Bible Society, established in 1818, meets annually at Tain; its collections average near L. 30 ; half the sum may be considei^ ed as the contribution of this parish. The ladies usually devote about L. 6 of it to loccil objects, such as the education of the chil- dren of the poor. There is also a Society for the Relief of the Destitute Sick, established about seven years iigo ; of which the annual subscriptions amount to about L. 12. In addition to all the above, and exclusive of the poor funds to be afterwards men- tioned, the church collections for religious and charitable objects, may average L. 50. Education, — The parish is supplied with the means of educa- tion, to almost as great an extent as could be desired. Besides the parochial school, there is an academy, established in 1813, erect- ed and liberally endowed by subscription; two female day and boarding schools, one supported by the burgh funds, and the other private; two private English schools; a private class for young children of both sexes ; and a Gaelic Society school ; in all eight, and all, except the last, situated in the town. The number taught to read under five years of age are, 49 males, 40 females; the number from five to fifteen, 253 males, 144 females; the number taught to write, 148 males, 76 females. The instruction given in the parochial school consists chiefly of English reading, writing, and arithmetic ; and there are in general several Latin and Greek scholars. The schoolmaster's salary is L. 44, 10s., with school-fees as follows: viz. for teaching English, 2<. per qiiartcr ; wilU V\\e ;SlMv\aow o1 HOSS AND CUOMAIITY. \3 298 ROSS AND CROMARTY. writing and arithmetic, ds. 6d. ; with book-keeping 43. ; and any of the above, with the addition of mensuration or the languages, 7s« The school fees may amount to L. 25 or L. 28 per annum. At the academy, there is a rector who teaches arithmetic, geogra- phy, mathematics, and natural philosophy ; and, for the last pui^ pose, he is provided with an excellent philosophical apparatus. There is also a teacher of the languages, namely, Latin, Greek, and French, and a teacher of English reading, grammar, and writ- ing. At the boarding-schools, the usual female accomplishments are taught The Society school has been established chiefly for behoof of the village of Inver, which is wholly a Gaelic population, and which is, besides, at an impracticable distance from the town. The people are in general very anxious to secure for their chil- dren the best education their circumstances will permit. It has been remarked, that notwithstanding — or perhaps more correctly, ifi consequence of— the facility afforded by the academy for attain- ing what is usually termed a finished education, the number of boys from the parish who pursue their studies at the university is not increased, but rather diminished. The knowledge acquired here is generally deemed sufficient for those who do not intend to em- brace a profession demanding a college curriculum. It is not easy to tell how much of any improvement in the conduct of the people may be owing to the increased facilities of education ; that a higher tone of thinking has been communicated seems certain, and the degrading vices, such as drunkenness, appear, among the respect- able classes, to have much decreased. There is a library attached to the academy for the use of the pupils. More than one library, parochial and circulating, have from time to time been set on foot, but, from bad management, they have dwindled away. There is a public reading-room maintained^ at which several newspapers are received. Friendly Societies. — Of these, there are three, namely, the Guild- ry Society, the Friendly Society, and the Mason Lodge. The first has existed since 1738^ and is designed chiefly as a widow's fund; the entry-money is L. 5, the quarterly subscription Is., and the annuity granted to the widow (or to the children, until the youngest reach the age of twelve,) L. 5. The second was es- tablished about twenty-five years ago, chiefly among the opera- tive classes. It assists the impoverished members in sickness and old age, and inters them at death. The Mason Lodge, which embraces only free-masons, has acted for above seventy years «.-*Of these, there are three principal ones still held in the parish, which, though at one time of great importance — having been resorted to by dealers from all quarters, with every variety of goods — have now degenerated into comparatively insignificant markets for country productions. They are held at Midsummer, Lammas, and Michaelmas. The two first are now useful, chiefly as established resorts of farmers and labourers, respectively to hire and to be hired for the harvest work. The rapid decline of these feirs is a matter of gratification to ever j sober-minded individual, since they used formerly to be, and to some exVcul suW \xtq, sc,e\ic» of abominable drunkenness and riot. 300 ROSS AND CROMARTY. The inns and alehouses in the town amount to 16 } in the rest of the parish to 3. Here, as everywhere else, there have been con>- plaints of the pernicious effects of the large number of these houses upon public morals ; and accordingly, they have been of late con- siderably restricted by the functionaries. Fuel. — That generally used, except by those persons in the parish who reside near the peat mosses, is English coal, at the rate of about Is. 8d. per barrel; (the herring barrel is the mea- sure still employed.) It is found cheaper than peat used alone, though of it, too, a large quantity is almost daily brought into the town, for sale, in small carts, chiefly from the neighbouring parish of Edderton, and is purchased to be used along with the staple fuel. A coal storehouse is at present in the course of erection* Miscellaneous Observations. In comparing the present state of the parish with that which esisted at the time of the last Statistical Account, a very striking advance in almost every department may be perceived. The most imporUmt change, however, seems to be that of language. That from the peculiar situation of the Highlands of Scotland, the change is a necessary one, and that by it the avenues of knowledge are being opened up, and the power of doing good proportionally increased, may readily be allowed ; but no Highlander watching the process in its immediate effects can look on it without regret. The stream of traditionary wisdom descending from our forefathers has been interrupted in its flow ; the feelings and the sentiments of a race, distinguished for high feeling and noble sentiment, will not transfuse themselves into a foreign tongue ; and the link of connec- tion between the present and the past generations has been snapped. The prejudices and superstitions of the Highlander are indeed pe- rishing along with his better characteristics ; but even this will not be contemplated with unmixed satisfaction, by those who believe that there are prejudices that elevate, more than they darken the mind. Before now, the Gael was debarred from fame, because he could speak only an uncultivated, though copious and nervous tongue ; now, he may chance as effectually to be debarred, because the fountain of Highland prejudice and Highland enthusiasm has been checked and rendered turbid at its source, and it may be long ere its inspiring waters renew their ancient flow. Still the change, we have said, is a necessary, and will in the end be a beneficial one; and the sooner, therefore, it be accomplished now, perhai)s the better. ^uffust J 837. PARISH OF KILMUIR EASTER.* PRESBYTERY OF TAIN, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. CHARLES R. MATHISON, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name — Boundaries. — The original name of this parish signifies the grave, or the chapel of Mary. 'the parish lies partly in the county of Ross, and partly in the county of Cromarty, owing to the circumstance of George, the first Earl of Cromarty, having possessed considerable property in it, and his having obtained the privilege of erecting his whole land« ed property in Scotland into a separate county, called the county of Cromarty, This property forms a part of many parishes in the synod of Ross ; and all these parishes are partly connected with the counties of Ross and Cromartv. t/ Extent^ Sfc. — This parish is about 10 miles in its greatest length, and 4 miles broad. It is bounded on the west, by the parish of Rosskeen ; on the east, by Loggie Easter ; on the north, by Ed- derton and Kincardine ; and on the south, by the sands of Nigg, and the Frith of Cromarty. The superficial contents of the parish may be estimated at 17,000 acres. Topographical Appearances. — The soil of the parish is various; but of late years, it has been greatly improved, especially in the lower parts, which border on the shore of the Frith of Cromarty. The whole of this range, including the Mains of New Tarbat, is now in a fine state of cultivation, and adorned with plantations. The higher grounds contain a great quantity of barren muir, in- termixed with natural wood, and fit only for the pasture of sheep. The soil is, in general, of a light gravelly nature in those parts which are cultivated ; but there is also a considerable quantity of moss. The coast is flat, and composed of red sandstone. At the recess of the tide, the sea retires very far, and leaves an al- most uninterrupted passage to the opposite parish of Nigg. The * Drawn up by Mr Donald Munro, Parochial Schoolmaster of Kilmuir Easter^ and Pr etcher of the Gospel. 302 ROSS AND CROMARTY. sands of Nigg contain a great quantity of cockles, and other shell- fish. The parish is in the lower parts very flat and level. The temperature of the atmosphere is in general mild and gentle, and extremely salubrious ; and the climate is free in a great measure from those heavy and noxious vapours which occasion almost inces- sant rains in many parts of the Highlands. In summer, there is a transparent sky, and unclouded sunshine. This is greatly ow- ing to the absence of any mountainous ridges. The hills which skirt the parish on the north are of no great elevation, and serve as a barrier of defence in that direction. There are no prevalent distempers peculiar to the district, though the parish is occasion- ally visited with fever. The inhabitants generally enjoy robust health, and often live to an extended old age. In winter, the sea coast is frequented by barnacles, and different species of wild duck. Swans occasionally visit the sands. There is abundance of sea-ware at certain seasons of the year, thrown a^ shore, which the inhabitants collect as manure for their land. Westerly winds generally prevail, and blow very severely ; but, for the last three years, east winds have been most prevalent The whole of the low^er district is well cultivated, and appears to reward the toil and expense employed in the production of the various agricultural crops ; and in summer, the aspect which it assumes is most beautiful. Directly opposite to the parish lies the Bay of Cromarty, which, together with the fine prospect afforded of the Moray Frith by the opening betwixt the Sutors, forms one of the most delightful landscapes in Britain. Much of the higher dis- trict of the parish still remains uncultivated, and covered with heather, amidst which large blocks of granite are thickly scat- tered, and great quantities of moss, which afford peats for fuel to the inhabitants. Hydrography. — There is no river or firesh water lake in the parish. The small river of Balnagown bounds the parish on the north-east, and runs north and south until it empties itself in the Frith of Cromarty. On the south, the parish is bounded by the Frith of Cromarty, which is from 6 to 7 miles in breadth. In the vicinity of Tarbat House, in -a beautiful plantation, and very near the shore, there are two chalybeate springs which flow perennially, and are strongly impregnated. Zoology. — The small river of Balnagown affords abundance of trout, and sometimes salmon of a certain growth. Cod, skate, flounders, and cuddies, and occasionally herringss are fished in the KILMUIR EASTER. 303 Frith of Cromarty. In the sands opposite the shore, there are considerable beds of cockles, and largo mussel scalps, which are the source of some annual revenue to the principal proprietor in this parish, Mr Ha^ Mackenzie of Cromarty. There is also an oyster scalp, which thrives very well. Botany. — There are several superb and very ancient trees in the- vicinity of Balnagown Castle, consisting of oak, and elm, and beech, and chestnut interspersed, and forming a splendid avenue. There is likewise, in the vicinity of Tarbat House a fine old grove, which contains trees of very ancient growth and large size* Larch is now frequently planted in the parish, but the Scotch fir is still the tree most commonly grown. IL — Civil History. Eminent Characters. — Long ere the controversies which have lately agitated our church and land were known, and while the people, especially in our rural districts, were distinguished by their devoted attachment to the clergy of the Establishment, flourished the excellent and amiable Mr Porteous. The Rev. John Porteous —a name which was never pronounced in Ross-shire without the deepest veneration — ^was minister of the parish of Kilmuir Easter for the long period extending between 1732 and 1775. His grand- father is said to have come to Inverness in Cromwell's army, and after the Restoration he settled in that ancient burgh, of which Mr Porteous, the minister of Kilmuir, was a native. During the period of his incumbency in this parish, extending to forty-three years, he ofiiciated with the highest reputation, adorning his pro- fession with all those gifts and graces which serve to remind us of thejprimitive purity and integrity of apostolic times. Nor did his Divine master fail to acknowledge him in his work of faith and la- bour of love, for he was favoured with many proofs of an accept- ed ministry while living ; and there is abundant reason to believe that he will have many as his joy and crown of rejoicing in the day of the Lord. The distinguishing characteristics of this venerable man, as a preacher of the Gospel and a teacher of righteousness, appear to have been, sublimity and spirituality jof doctrine ; patriarchal sim« plicity of diction, and of manner ; a deep insight into the arcana of the human constitution, and the power of embodying his concep- tions in striking and forcible language, and of carrying irresistible demonstration to the conscience. He possessed a brilliant imagina- tioD, which, though subject to occasional eccentricities, was still so 304 ROSS AND CROMARTY. thoroughly imbued with the solemnities of Christian truth, that it al- ways ministered instruction, and enabled him to enlighten and to edi- fy his hearers. He was *^ a man on earth "devoted to the skies," and, from the fulness of a heart overflowing with love to God and to his fellow-creatures, he spoke with an unction and a pathos which carried captive the understanding and the affections to the obedi- ence of the truth. Though now dead upwards of sixty<*three years, his memory is cherished with the highest veneration, and the re- spect and reverence with which his primitive i)astoral admonitions, and profound doctrinal and experimental observations, have been handed down, resemble more the regard with which we may con- ceive the Jewish people to have listened to the predictions of their prophets, than the attention ordinarily paid to the instructions of uninspired men. Whilst minister of this parish, he was pre-emi- nently popular ; and the church of Kilmuir constituted a centre of attraction to a large surrounding neighbourhood, who hurried eager- ly from different and widely distant parishes to hear this man of God, and to hang upon his lips. He did the work of an evange- list, and made full proof of his ministry. ^^ He watched and pray- ed — he wept and felt for all." His mortal remains are deposited in the church-yard of Kilmuir, and in the close vicinity of that spot in which he so long held forth the word of life, and cheered so of* ten the Christian pilgrim in his journey toward Zion« I low sleep Uic good who sink to rest ? By all their country's wishes blest* When spring with dewy fingers cold, Returns to deck their hallow'd mould> She tlicrc shull dress a sweeter sod llian fiincy*s feet have ever trod, 13y angels' hands their knell is rung. By forms unseen their dirge is sung. There virtue conies, a pilgrim gray To bless the turf that wraps their clay, And piety shall still repair, To dwell a weeping hemiit there. Ill the autumn of 1833, this parish was deprived of one of its most valuable members in the person of Donald Mitchell, who died at an advanced age, after having been for upwards of thirty years employed in the office of catechist. Though 'an illiterate man, and not able to read even the Gaelic language until after his marriage, his views of divine truth were comprehensive, accu- rate, and profound, and for many years he was an able instructor to the young and rising generation. Diligent in duty, and clothed with the dignity and the moral force of Christian character, he had acquired the esteem and veneration of an extensive district of coun-. KILMUIR EASTER. 305 try, in which he was familiarly known, as a solid, judicious, and deeply experienced disciple of the Lord Jesus. Never was there a more striking exemplification of the efficacy of Divine teaching, in enlightening the mind with that wisdom which cometh from above^ and which often reveals to babes what is hid from the wise and the prudent. The inhabitants of this parish will long remem-> ber the solemn warnings, the affectionate addresses, and the pa- thetic appeals of this man of God — and though dead, he yet speaketh. Heritors.-^There are six land-owners. Mr Hay Mackenzie of * Cromarty possesses the highest valuation, and is patron of the pa<- rish. Parochial Repsters, — The register of births commences in 1738, and there are no sessional records of an older date than 1771. Antiquities. — In addition to the antiquities so well described in the former Statistical Account of this parish, may be mentioned a round tower connected with the present church, and used as a belfry, which bears date in large figures, 1616, and which, after having braved the storms of two centuries, is still in a high state of preservation. There are still some remains of the ruins of the Castle of New Tarbat, once the seat of the Earls of Cromarty, which is said to have been the most elegant and highly finished house in the three counties. It stood near the site of the present mansion, ancL- was allowed to fall into a state of dilapidation during the period of forfeiture. It is said to have been a most superb and spacious building, and beautifully adorned with turrets. On the estate of Kindace, there is a small wooded hillock, on the summit of which there was a Druidical circle until within the last few years, when the farmer of the place removed the stones to build a dike. There is a fine spring of clear water at the foot of the hillock ; and on the same property, there is a large cairn of stones, the tradition in regard to which is, that in a great battle fought there, a king was killed, and his head struck off, and bu- ried under this cairn. The hill is now called Kenrive, a corrup- tion from the Gaelic of Ceann Righ^ or King's- head ; and the foundation of a largo castle or building can yet be traced close to the cairn. Modem Buildings. — Balnagown Castle is a beautiful building, and splendidly situated. It is partly ancient, and partly modern. It boasts a very high antiquity, and was one of the seats of -the 306 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Earl of Ross during the prevalence of the feudal system. Within the last two years, an elegant and handsome addition has been made to it. There is a spacious lawn in front of the castle, taste- fully laid out, and adorned with a variety of trees. Altogether, it is one of the most delightful residences in the north of Scotland, enjoying a commanding prospect of the finest scenery in the sur^ rounding country. Within a short distance of Balnagown, and near the shore, stands Tarbat House, a highly finished modern building, and the chief seat of Mr H. Mackenzie of Cromarty. The grounds surrounding it are laid out with great taste, and have of late years been tiighly improved. Kindace House is a com- modious mansion, and very pleasantly situated in the upper part of the parish. The house of Milmount is a beautiful residence. III. — Population. The population in 1745 was 700 1755 • . 1095 1705 1975 1801 • . 1703 1811 1559 1831 . . 1556 It will be observed, that the population of this parish has de- creased since 1795, that is, in thirty-six years, by 419. This is partly owing to emigration, but principally to the system of large farm-letting, which has of late years become so general. The number of the population residing in villages may be estimated at 456; the remaining 1100 reside in the country. Yearly average of births for the last 7 years, . 30 marriages, • • 11 Number of families in the parish, - - ... - 373 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 190 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 95 There are three proprietors who generally reside in the parish ; Mr Hay Mackenzie of Cromarty, Sir Charles Ross of Balnagown, and Captain Robertson of Kindace. All the land-owners, of whom there are six, possess a yearly rental much greater than L. 50 Sterling. The language generally spoken by the people is English, though there are not a few of the aged who are unable to speak it« The Gaelic language has very perceptibly lost ground witHin the last forty years, owing to the desire which is now very prevalent among parents of the lower classes to have their children taught to read and understand English ; and it would be difficult to meet with many of the labouring people who cannot speak English with tolerable facility. The English language is daily taught in the Society School in the upper district of the parish, and this affords KILMUiR EASTER. 307 an opportunity of acquiring it to the poorest of the people. Along with ^he improved education of the lower classes, arising from their general acquaintance with the English language, there is a growing improvement likewise in their customs and habits. Those popular amusements which formerly engrosed much of their time, and dissipated their means and attention, and were the inlets to much low debauchery, are almost entirely given up, and when resorted to, occasionally, are not at all so keenly prosecuted as they used to be, in former generations. The habits of the people are cleanly and respectable. The ordinary food of the peasant^ consists of potatoes and meal, with fish and milk occasionally ; and in genera], they are sober, steady, moral, and disposed to pay a de- corous attention and respect to the observances and ordinances of religion. Poaching in game is a crime almost unknown, and smug- gling seems to have been entirely given up for several years. IV. — Industry. AgricttUure. — Arable land, about - 2,500 acres. Natural wood and plantations, 4,500 Moory meadow, and pasture, 10,000 17,000 ' Agriculture is well understood, and practised upon the most approved and scientific principles. Many of the farmers in the parish are connected with the Ross-shire Farming Socie- ty for the Improvement of Corn, and of the different Breeds of Cattle. The usual five-shift course is adopted : green crop, barley or wheat, two years grass, and oats, or beans, or pease. Proprietors i^pear anxious to improve their land, and lime and bone manure are generally employed. BenL — Arable land averages from L. 1 to L. 1, 10s. per acre. The rent of grazing per ox or cow varies from Li. 2 to L. 2, 10s. per annum. Wagci. — The rate of wages for farm-labourers is generally Is. per day without victuals ; women 6d. per day. Masons and car- penters get from Is. 6d. to 2s. per day. Farm-servants who reside with fieumers have an income, including all they receive, of from L. 18 to L. 20 per annum, besides a house. The Cheviot and black-faced and Leicester sheep are common in the parish, and the polled Aberdeen black-cattle are in the course of being introduced on several farms. It Is thought by com- petent judges, that, by a proper application of capital, a consi-* L.2500 2100 1320 700 750 1500 51 300 308 ROSS AND CROMARTY. derable quantity of waste land might be advantageously reclaimed. Rents are considered as generally high, and the usual duration of leases is for nineteen years. Farm-buildings and enclosures are, upon the whole, in a good state of repair. Produce. — The following is an account of the amount and value of the raw produce of the parish,- so far as they have been ascer- tained. Oats, 2000 qrs. at L. 1, 5s. per quarter, Wheat, 700 qrs. at L. 3 per quarter, • Barley, 800 qrs. at L. 1, 1 3s. per quarter, Potatoes, 1400 bolls at 10s. per boll, Tuniips, 150 acres at L. 5 per acre, Ilay, 40,000 stones at 9d. per stone, Rye, 30 qrs. at L. 1, 14 s. per quarter. Pease and beans, 150 qrs. at L. 2 per quarter, Total amount, L. 9221 Live-Stocfu — Horses of all sizes, 300 ; black-cattle, of all ages, and different kinds, 1000, more or less ; sheep of all kinds, 2000 ; swine, 300 ; goats, 30. There is no land in the parish in a state of undivided common. A considerable quantity of butter and cheese is annually made and .sold, of which it would be difficult to estimate the exact amount and value. There are, in all, fourteen farms in the parish, besides a number of small holdings, averaging each from 2 to 10 or 12 acres. These small holdings are in detached spots, and in general on the outskirts of the larger farms. Quarries. — There is a quarry of fine white freestone at Kinrive, on the property of Kindace, resembling the Craigleith stone, ca- pable of a high polish, and very durable. There are likewise se- veral quarries of red stone, but much inferior in value to that of Kinrive. The quarry of Kinrive extends in a continued ridge to Camscurric, to the north of Tain, a distance of ten or twelve miles. Fisheries, — There is no regular fishery of any kind in the pa- rish, though there is a village (Portlich), the inhabitants of which were once almost all fishers. The descendants of these people have, in general, betaken themselves to trades, and probably find- ing a more certain livelihood by these means, have almost entirely abandoned fishing, though there are occasionally some boats which go from this village to the herring fishing. V. — Pakochial Economy. Villages. — There is a village in the parish, Milntown, in which there are four markets held annually. The population of this vil- KILMUIR EASTER. 309 lage amounts to 200. There are other two villages, Bartaravillc and Portlich. Means of Communication. — There is a post-office at Miln- town, and the great county road runs through this village ; by which the royal i mail-coach travels daily north and south, and another coach for the accommodation of passengers, dur- ing the summer and harvest months, from Inverness to Tain. The ruads are excellent. A new road has been lately constructed through the most high land part of the parish, which will prove a great convenience to the people. There arc several other new roads in progress, so that the whole parish will soon be intersected with excellent means of conveyance. There are two bridges, one over the river of Balnagown, and the other at Polio. They are both In good condition. There is a harbour at Balintraid, which affords accommodation for vessels from Licith and Aberdeen and other ports ; and which is very convenient for the people of this, and of neighbouring parishes, by the facility with which it enables them to procure coal, and various articles of merchandise. A considerable quantity of grain from the district of Easter Ross, and large quantities of fir wood for the coal-pits and railroads in the south, are likewise annually exported from Balintraid pier. Ecclesiastical State. — The present church was built in 1798, and contains 900 sittinofs. It is situated in the south-east end of the parish, and is distant about five miles from some of the inha« bitants. There are from twenty to thirty frcc-sittincrs in it. It is at present in a good state of repair. The manse was built about 100 years ago, since which time additions have been made to it, and it has been frequently repaired. There are 6 acres of glebe, valued at L. 12 per annum. The stipend is 87 bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck, 3J lippies oatmeal, 9 stones, Ross-shire boll, and 68 bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck. If lippy^barley, 9 stones, Poss-shire boll, and L. 62, Os. 4i"gd. Sterling. The stipend awarded by the Court of Teinds was 15 chalders; but the teinds do not pay the stipend, nor the sum for communion elements. There is no chapel of ease or Dissenting chapel in the parish, the people being, with the exception of one or two individuals, all members of the Established Church, which, in this parish is well attended, and in general crowded. There is a catechist appointed bv the minister, with the consent of the congregation, and paid by the people and minister. There arc individuals from 350 families, amounting to 800, who regularly attend the parish church. The 310 BOSS AND CROMARTY. average number of communicants may be stated at 60. The pro- bable average amount of church collections yearly for religious objects may be estimated at L. 20. There is a Bible Society, which meets regularly once a quarter for prayer, and for the pur- pose of making contributions, and once in the year for the purpose of distributing its funds to the various objects of Christian bene- volence. Educatioru — There are two schools, the parochial, and one sup- ported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The parish schoolmaster has the legal accommodation, and a salary of L. 32, 2s. 9^. Sterling. The school fees may amount to L. 12 yearly. The salary of the Society teacher is L. 18^ with a house built by the parishioners. His school fees may amount to L. 6 annually. The numbers who attend both schools during the year may amount to 160 children. The expenseof education, and the branches of instruction taught at the parochial school, are as fol- lows : reading per quarter, 2s. ; reading, writing, and arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; Latin and Greek, 5s. ; book-keeping, 7s. 6d« ; and £ng« lish grammar, ds. In the Society school, English reading, writ- ing, and arithmetic are regularly taught. The people generally are able to read, and appear to appreciate the benefits of educa- tion. There is no additional school necessary in this parish. Literature, — There is no parochial library, but many of the more respectable inhabitants are connected with a district library, which affords many valuable works. And it would be diflSeult to find a rural parish in the north of Scotland, of the same dimen- sions, which contains a greater number of intelligent and well in- formed individuals, in the various classes of society. Poor and Parochial Funds, — There are from 80 to 100 who regularly receive parochial aid. Their funds are derived from the following sources : mortcloth per annum, L. 2 ; rent of house in Tain belonging to the poor, which averages L. 15 annually; collections in church, which amount to L. 22 yearly, making in all L. 39. There is likewise a mortification of barley by Greorge, Earl of Cromarty, which produces 5 bolls annually, for distribu- tion among the poor ; and there are other mortifications, amount- ing to L. 1, 3s. lO^d. yearly. There is no other mode adopted for procuring funds for the poor. An assessment has never been re* sorted to. The annual sums distributed to each pauper may ave- ranre 5s. or 6s. in the year. None but the extremely necessitous receive parochial aid, and others are dissuaded from seeking it^ 6 KILMUIR EASTER. 311 and taught to consider it as degrading. Some who receive occa- sional assistance are not enrolled in the list of paupers. Inns, — There are 2 inns, and 4 public-houses. Intemperance is not, however, a prevalent vice in the parish, and it is very rare- ly that the people are known to quarrel or fight .Fb«2.— Coals are generally used in the lower, and peats in the higher, district of the parish. Coals generally sell for Is. Id. im« perial barrel^ and peats for Is. the cart. The coals come from Newcastle^ and there is abundance of moss in the parish. Miscellaneous Observations. l«f, When the last Statistical Account of this parish was written, the real rent did not much exceed L.1400 Sterling; now it is L. 3800 Sterling. The manufacture of kelp and shell-lime have been al^ together discontinued, and lime and bone manure are generally in use. Within the last eighteen months, a toll-bar has been erect- ed at the bridge of Polio. Instead of there being upwards of 30 tippling -houses in the parish, there are now only 2 inns, and four public-houses. All the agricultural implements now used are of the most approved kind, and oxen are never employed in plough- ing. Wheat is generally grown on all the farms in the parish, and is found to afford a good remunerating price. The roads which intersect the parish, are kept in good condition. In the u^)- per district, and especially in the environs of Kindace, great im- provements have been effected of late years. There are now four public roads in the parish, running parallel to each other, includ- ing the new road lately constructed along the upper district, and reaching from Tain to the policy of Novar, in the parish of Alness. The harbour of Balintraid, in the south-west end of the parish, has likewise been erected since the last Statistical Account was published. 2di With respect to the improvements of which the i)a- rish is susceptible. It has been already observed, that the system of husbandry pursued is of the most approved kind, and that the means of internal conveyance are excellent Much, however, remains to be done, in this, as in most other pa- rishes, to advance the inhabitants to the maximum state of com- fort and happiness. We have no desire to advocate any Utopian theory on this most important subject, but merely to suggest some hints for those substantial and sober improvements which might meliorate the condition of the people. If any thing could be done to give employment to the numerous and increasing set- 312 ROSS AND CROMARTV. tiers in villages — whether by establishing some branch of manu-' facture, or by urging and encouraging able-bodied men to fish re* gularly in the Frith of Cromarty, or by allocating certain small por- tions of ground to stances for houses, as an inducement to build, and to permanent residence in the parish ; these expedients, or any one of them, if vigorously prosecuted, might increase indefinitely the com- fort and happiness of the lower classes. The great evil which re- quires to be remedied in some way or other, is the fluctuating state of the population, in consequence of the arable land being in the possession of a few, — ^which, howevermuchit may tend to the agricul- tural improvement oftheparish, certainly is not calculated to improve the state of the population. In consequence of this, many of the people are always on the wing, and shifting from one parish to an- other, in quest of a better place or of more congenial employment ; thus rendering in a great measure nugatory the instruction which they receive, whether in the way of catechizing, or of private pas- toral admonition and reproof. It is expected that a saving's bank will be soon established in this district with a government security, and the sooner thb is set agoing the better. We may observe, as an instructive fact in the philosophy of education, that the greatly more intelligent character of the people of this parish now, than it was forty years ago, is owing in no small degree to their having been taught to read Gaelic as well as English, in the school established by the Society. It was this which first excited a desire for more information, and roused with- in them the latent principal of curiosity, proving that the only ef- fectual way to instruct the ignorant is to address them first in the language which is most familiar to them, whether our object be to win their attention, or to engage their affections. If a village or parochial library were established by volunUiry contributions, consisting of interesting and instructive books in Gaelic and English, to which the poor might have free access, it might prove an incalculable benefit to many. It would be the means of creating a relish for reading, and for intellectual enjoy- ment among those who are still destitute of it, and of filling up the void of idle hours with profitable and amusing pastime. Dccnnbcr 1838. •I" ■ - PARISH OF KILTEARN. PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. THOMAS MUNRO, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name* — Kiltearn derives its name from two Gaelic words, Kxell Tiffhearn, the burying-placo of the laird, though the particu- lar circumstance which gave rise to the name is unknown ; for the principal family in the district, the Munroes of Fowlis, had their burying-place at Chanonry, until the year 1588. Extenty Bomiddries. — The parish is situated about the middle of the county, on the north shore of the Cromarty Frith. Its breadth along the shore, from Novar Burn to the rivulet of Altna- lait, near Tulloch, is about 6 miles, but, as it extends for about 20 miles into the hills, its breadth becomes considerably varied. It is bounded by Alness on the east ; by Contin and Lochbroom on the north ; by Dingwall and Fodderty on the west ; and the Cromarty Frith, as already mentioned, forms the southern boundary. Topographical Appearances. — The whole of the parish, with the exception of a part, varying in breadth from one to two miles along the shore, consists of one mass of hills covered with heath, or in some places planted with firs. Among these are some of conside- rable elevation, particularly Wyvis, which rises to the height of 3720 feet above the level of the sea. This hill is never without soine snow even in the hottest summer, and the forest of Wyvis is held of the King on the singular condition of paying a snowball any day of the year, if required. In the valleys between these hills there is a great deal of heath and coarse grass, which at one time maintained numbers of cattle from the small farms on the low grounds. In one or two of these hollows, too, the mountain streams have formed small lakes, which diversify the scenery, and afford ex- cellent sport to the angler. Hydrography. — The principal of these lakes is Loch Glass, at the distance of six miles from the sea, about five miles in length, and one in breadth. Its depth has not been ascertained ; but ROSS AND CROMARTY. X 314 KOSS AND CKOMARTV. from the circumstance that it is seldom known to be covered with ice, it must be considerable. Near the south end of it is a small island, where the lairds of Fowlis had at one time a summer house. The waters of this loch are discharged into the sea by the Ault- graad, a stream which, in its course, presents the most singular natural curiosity in the north of Scotland. Shortly after quitting the loch, it forms a succession of very picturesque falls, and, af- ter winding for some distance in a valley, enters a deep and nar- row chasm in the red sandstone rock, and flows through it for two miles. Its course is thus graphically described by the late Dr Ro- bertson in the old Statistical Account : " The river continues to run with rapidity for about three-quarters of a mile, when it is con- fined by a sudden jutting out of the rock. Here, the side view from the summit is very striking. The course of the stream being thus impeded it whirls and foams, and beats with violence against the opposing rock, till, collecting strength, it shoots up perpendi- cularly with great fury, and forcing its way, dart»with the swiftness of an arrow through the winding passage on the other side. After passing this obstruction, it becomes in many places invisible, owing partly to the increasing depth and narrowness of the chasm, and partly to the view being intercepted by the numerous branches of trees which grow on each side of the precipice. About a quarter of a mile further down, the country people have thrown a slight bridge,* composed of trunks of trees covered with turf, over the rock, where the chasm is about 16 feet wide. Here the observer, if he has intrepidity enough to venture himself on such a totter- ing support, and can look down on the gulf below without any un- easy sensations, will be gratified with a view equally awful and as- tonishing. The wildness of the steep and rugged rocks ; the gloomy horror of the clifls and caverns, inaccessible to mortal tread, and where the genial rays of the sun never yet penetrated ; the water- falls, which are heard pouring down in diflerent places of the pre- cipice, with sounds various in proportion to their distance ; the hoarse and hollow murmuring of the river, which runs at the depth of near 130 feet below the surface of the earth, cannot be contem- plated without exciting emotions of wonder and admiration in the mind of every beholder." From the appearance of the opposite sides of this remarkable chasm it seems quite clear that the rock must, at some early period, have been rent asunder by volcanic agency. Anterior to this period, the hollow above the point where • There is at present a substantial wooden one. KILTEAUN. 315 the river enters the rock must have been filled with water, for in some places the height at which the water stood is still quite dis- tinguishable. The only other stream in the parish worth mentioning is the Skiack, which is formed by the union of several mountain streams, and falls into the sea near the church, about half a mile from the mouth of the Aultgraad. In summer, particularly if the season be dry, these streams are so small that they can scarcely struggle among the stones to reach the shore ; but after heavy rain or the melting of the snow in the hills, they swell into impetuous torrents, and require to be prevented, by embankments, from injuring the cultivated spots on their banks. The Cromarty Frith, on the south side of the parish, lies on a bed of sandstone covered over with sand and the detritus of the different rivers which flow into it. The slime thus deposited covers the sandy in many places, to the depth of several inches. The water contains little salt, and the time of high and low water is a quarter of an hour later than at Cromarty. In the heights of the parish, there are several extensive tracts of moss, where the inhabitants cut peats in summer to serve for winter fuel. In cutting out these, numbers of fir-trees are dug up, which, owing to the antiseptic qualities of the moss water, are perfectly sound, and remain so for a very long time when used for building. They are also very commonly used by those who live near the mosses for light When split up into small pieces and carefully dried, they bum with much clearness, and add greatly to the comfort of the poor during the long winter nights. Clay and shell marl are found in trifling quantities ; but have not been applied in any considerable quantity to the purposes of agriculture. Mineralogy, — There are indications of the existence of coal indif- ferent parts of the parish ; and some attempts were actually made many years ago under the direction of the late Sir Harry Munro, to discover the most proper situations for working a mine, but were un- fortunately abandoned. The reason alleged was, that though coal was found, it lay so deep, that, unless the bed was considerable, it would not pay the expense of working. In a rock on the banks of Aultnancaorach, a rivulet that falls into the Altgraad, some ore was discovered, which, when smelted, was found to produce good lead. The prevalence of chalybeate springs in diflerent quarters clearly indicates the existence of iron, though the quan- tity is unknown. Some of these were frequented at one time for their medicinal virtues. 316 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Climate^ 8fc» — The climate of a district is of course greatly influ- enced by its situation and exposure ; and, in a parish like Kiltearn, where all varieties exist, from the maritime low grounds to heights some thousand feet above the level of the sea, great differences are found to exist During the prevalence of the southerly and westerly winds from the Atlantic, the weather, though often rainy, is not so cold as when they blow from the east and north-east over the frozen countries in the north of Europe. The air on the higher grounds is often cold and moist ; but the cultivated district that rises gradually from the sea to the hills, enjoys a climate second to none in Scotland. A favourable testimony to the healthfulness of the climate is afforded by the many instances of longevity which have occurred. Persons have been known to attain to the great age of 100, 107, and even 117 years. Several live to 80, and 70 is by no means an uncommon age. The prevalent disorders are colds, coughs, influenza, and rheumatism, and these are more severe during easterly winds. • Zoology. — There are no rare species of animals in the parish, but such as are common throughout the country. Wolves existed in former times ; foxes were numerous till lately, and a few are yet occasionally seen. Badgers and Polecats are found, though in very inconsiderable numbers. Some rabbits were introduced a few years ago, and they have since that time multiplied so amazingly as to have become a serious annoyance. The hills abound with deer and all kinds of moor game, and on Wyvis are found ptar- migans and mountain hares. Various kinds of shell-fish are found on the shore, as mussels, cockles, and welks. There are also some banks where, in the pro- per season, and at a certain state of the tide, good oysters may be gathered. The salmon tribe enter the streams about the end of June, and in the beginning of October ascend for the purpose of depositing their spawn. The fry descend to the sea with the floods in January and February, and reascend in autumn as salmon trout and grilses. In the lochs and streams are found several varieties of trouts, in considerable numbers. II. — Civil History. Family of Munro of Fowlis. — Tradition relates, that when The gradual deterioration of the climate for many years is a subject of universal remark. Some seem disposed to regard this as an idle fancy, but it is apprehended without any just grounds. It is an undoubted fact, that several years ngo» the crops were secured much earlier than at present; this is the more remarkable, as the system of management was then very defective, and many varieties of early have been since introduced. KILTEARN. 317 Malcolm IL feued out the lands of the country to those fami- lies who had assisted him in extirpating the Danes, the coun- try between the burgh of Dingwall and the water of Alness was assigned to Donald Munro, and from that circumstance re- ceived the name of FerindonuiU or Donald's land. Part of these lands was afterwards erected into a barony, called the Ba- rony of Fowlis, From Donald Munro is lineally descended the present Sir Hugh Munro, Bart, who is the twenty-ninth baron of Fowlis, and proprietor of about two-thirds of the lands of the parish. This family has, at different times, produced indivi- duak whose military talents reflect the highest honour on their country and name. In comparatively later times, many of them dis- tinguished themselves by their firm adherence to the principles of the Reformation, and their devoted attachment to the House of Hanover. Buchanan mentions, that, among those who assembled at Inverness to assist the unfortunate Queen Mary, were the Erasers and Munros, '^ who were esteemed among the most valiant of the dans inhabiting those countries." In the war carried on by Gus- lavus Adolphus against Ferdinand IL there were so many of the name of Munro, that, among the officers of that name who served in that war, there were 3 generals, 8 colonels, 5 lieutenant-colonels, 1 1 majors, and above 30 captains, besides a great number of subalterns. Sir Robert Munro, the grandfather of the present Baronet, was a man who would have done honour to any age or country ; being distinguished alike for the highest military talents and the most unaffected piety. When still a very young man, he served for several years in Flanders under the Duke of Marlborough, and there formed an intimacy with the celebrated Colonel James Ghtfdiner. His father, also called Sir Robert, was still living at the breaking out of the Rebellion in 1715; and, though quite blind, actively exerted himself to support the Royal cause in the north. The Earl of Seaforth sent him word, that ^^ he was now designed to execute what he had long determined, to set King James on the throne," and at the same time demanded his arms. Sir Robert returned answer, that <^ what arms he had were for the use and service of King George, whom he would de- fend while his blood was warm." Retaining a sufficient number to guard his own residence, he sent the rest of his people to unite with a body of the Sutherland Royalists at Alness bridge, where the whole encamped under the command of his son. They de- the rebels in the north, under Seaforth, from joining: the main 318 ROSS AND CUOMARTY. army of the insurgents at Perth for two months ; and, as Mar was afraid to cross the Frith without this reinforcement, time was given for the adoption of those measures which afterwards frustrated that unfortunate attempt. Sir Robert served his country in vari- ous capacities for many years, and for thirty of them was a member of the British Parliament. In 1740, he passed over a second time into Flanders ; and at the battle of Fontenoy, fully supported the character which he and his men had formerly acquired. The Elector Palatine, through his envoy at the British Court, tendered his thanks to the King for the excellent conduct of this regiment, ** which," says he, " was owing to the care of Sir Robert Munro, their lieutenant-colonel ; for whose sake," he adds, *^ he should always pay a regard to a Scotsman for the future." But it would be impossible to do any thing like justice to the character of this great man in a short sketch like the present. He ended his life at the battle of Falkirk. He had been shortly before promoted to the command of a regiment, which, unlike his brave Highlanders at Fontenoy, deserted him in the moment of attack, and left him enclosed by the enemy. From a letter of his son. Sir Harry, to President Forbes, it appears that he, for a while, fought single- handed with half-a-dozen of their number, and slew two or three, until one of them, seeing no prospect of overcoming the grey- headed hero by fair and open means, discharged a pistol-shot into his groin, and thus ended the life of a hero and a Christian.* It is much to be regretted that no one duly qualiBed, has been found to undertake the biography of this eminent man ; for it may be safely affirmed, that few ever led a more useful life, or transmitted a more unsullied name to posterity, than the late Sir Robert Munra His son. Sir Harry, was an excellent classical scholar, and at his death left ready for publication a large critical work on Buchanan's Psalms, which met with the highest approbation from the celebrated Ruddiman. Having gone to Edinburgh for the recovery of his health, he died in 1781. At the west end of the church, is buried the late Sir Hector Munro, of Novar, K. B., who, after spending much of his life in active military service, and acquiring the highest distinction as a brave and intrepid soldier in various parts of the world, passed the * " An old companion in arms, one day, when describing the closing scene in the life of his almost idolized chief, after pouring out his curse on the dastards who had deserted him, started from his seat, and grasping his staff as he burst into tears, exclaimed, in a voice almost stifled by emotion, Ochon ! Ochon ! had his ain folk been there V^~^MUtn*i Scenes and Lef^nds^ p. 424. KILTEARN. 319 evening of his days in improving his estates and ameliorating the condition of bis tenantry. Parochial Ministers* — Besides the Fowlis family, there have been several individuals, of considerable eminence in various departments, connected with the parish. One Donald Munro, minister of Kil- team, and contemporary with Buchanan, furnished that historian with much information respecting the Highlands and isles, of which he was archdeacon, and is characterised by him as a pious and learn- ed man. The ministers of the parish, as far back as is known, were Messrs T. Hogg, J. Gordon, Hugh Campbell, William Stuart, Andrew Robertson, George Watson, Harry Robertson, D.D. The present minister is Mr Thomas Munro. Mr Hogg was settled in the parish in 1655, but was obliged to leave it at the Restoration to make way for an Episcopal minister. He was one of five mini- sters in the synod who refused to conform, and was consequently subjected to a harassing persecution. After a tedious imprison- ment in the Bass, he at length obtained his liberty, and retired to Holland, where his learning and piety acquired for him the greatest esteem. He appears to have united the most sincere and ardent piety to a strength of mind which no prospect of suffering could daunt* At a period when, to all appearance, his affairs were despe- rate, when he was obliged to ily from his parish and people with- out any prospect of ever seeing them, he declared, with the most assured confidence, that there should be such a revolution as hap- pened afterwards, and that he should return to his charge at Kil- tearm And so it was. In consideration of his eminent worth, and as a sort of reparation for his sufferings, King William appointed him one of his chaplains for Scotland. He did not, however, live long to enjoy his honours and ease ; for, exhausted by a long course of &tigue and suffering, he died in 1692. At the entry to the south* west door of the church, his grave is marked by a plain stone, which bears the following singular inscription : ^^ This stone will witness against the people of Kiltearn, if ever they bring in an ungodly mi- nister here."* No historical events of any importance have, of late years, hap- pened in the parish. The feuds which used at one time to cause so much bloodshed, are now happily unknown ; and till very lately, the communication with the south was so imperfect, that the events * The Epiaeopaliun minister settled iu the parish upon Mr Hogg's ejection, was a Mr John GordoDi who met with so much opposition, tliat the then laird of Fowlis, Sir John Munro, called for his adherence to the cause, the Presbyterian jnortar-pkce, refused to pay him any stipend. 320 ROSS AND CROMARTY. which agitated the other parts of the kingdom, had always become matters of history, before the natives of the north had received any intelligence respecting them. It is only when events immediately affect a people's own interests that they fairly excite them ; but even in a case of this kind, the inhabitants of a rural district are so scattered, that any temporary excitement soon passes away from want of the assurance and confidence inspired by numbers and union. Towards the end of last century, when sheep began to be generally introduced into the north, and numbers of the tenantry were ejected to make way for them, the minds of the people were so excited by witnessing such frequent instances of what they con- ceived to be wanton oppression and cruelty, that numbers of them assembled, and collecting together all the sheep in Sutherland and the north-eastern parts of Ross-shire, drove them in one mass as far as Kiltearn, when they were dispersed by a party of the 42d Regi- ment, then stationed at Fort George, under the command of Ck)«- lonel Sir Hector Munro. Several of the rioters were apprehend- ed and tried at Inverness ; two of them were sentenced to transport- ation, but afterwards escaped from jail. Land-Owners. — The land-owners of the parish are five in num- ber ; Sir Hugh Munro of Fowl is; H. A. J. Munro of Novar ; Cap- tain E. B. Fraser of Balcony ; Simon Mackenzie of Mountgerald; and Duncan Davidson of Tulloch ; all of them, except Captain Fraser, non-resident in the parish. Two of them, Novar and Tul- loch, though proprietors in this parish, have their residences in the neighbouring ones. It is much to be regretted^ indeed, that absen- teeism is become so very common throughout the whole country. Mansions once Knew their own masters. Now the legitimate and rightful lord Is but a transient guest ; and in too many cases, not even that The people are remarkably sensible to any kindness shewn them, particularly by a countryman; and the presence of a landlord, by furnishing a stimulus to good conduct and honourable exertions, could not fail to be productive of the most beneficial results. Antiquities. — In all quarters of the parish were found, at one time, numbers of cairns or heaps of stones, usually covering a grave rudely formed of large flat stones. It has been conjectured that the object in collecting these heaps, was to protect the dead bo- dies from wolves, bears, and other ravenous animals which formerly KILTEARN. 321 infested the country. But this can scarcely be admitted for a probable explanation ; for in that case, these cairns would neces- sarily be much more numerous than they are, or several bodies would be deposited in each. This, however, is not found to be the case. There is reason indeed to believe that many of them owe their origin to a very different cause. The original cultiva- tors of the soil, being ignorant of any better mode of getting rid of the stones which impeded their agricultural operations, collected them into those heaps, which have since furnished matter for so much valuable antiquarian disquisition. To the west of the House of Clyne, there was some time ago a very remarkable relic of for- mer times, but which has lately been removed in the course of some agricultural improvements. It was supposed to have been at one time a Druidical place of worship. The following is Dr Robertson's description of it in the old Statistical Account: ^^ It consists of a single row of twelve large stones placed upright, and so disposed as to form two ovals, which are joined to each other. The areas of these ovals are equal ; they are 13 feet from east to west, and 10 feet in the middle from north to south. At the west end of one of them is a stone, which rises 8 feet above the surface of the earth ; the other stones are from 4 to 6 feet long. There is also, in the middle of this oval, a flat stone, which was probably the altar ; it seems to have stood formerly at the east end, but has been thrown down by some accident* Distant about three paces from the eastern oval, is a circular hollow, said to have been a well of considerable depth, but it is now filled up; its^ diameter at top is 8 feet. These ovals are situated on the top of an eminence, round which are marked out three concentric circles ; one at the bottom, another 28 paces above the former, and the third 12 paces higher, immediately surrounding the ovals. The circumference of the first is 80, of the second, 50, and of the third, 35 paces." There are still remaining the ruins of five chapels and burying-places ; and in the neighbourhood of one of them, near the shore, may be traced the site of the manse or mi« nister's house. In some of the graves which have been dug up, were found small earthen pitchers ; and this circumstance, along with the extreme smallness of the graves themselves, appears to furnish a strong confirmation of the opinion, that our ancestors were in the habit of burning their dead, and depositing their ashes in these nide urns. 322 ROSS ANQ CROMARTY. III. — Population. The following is the population of the parish, at different pe- riods, within the last 6fty years : — In 1791, it amounted to 1616 1801, . 1525 1811, . 1552 1821, 1454 1831, . 1605 The decrease in the period between 1791 and 1811 was mainly owing to the enlistment of numbers of the young men in the 42d Regi- ment, under the command of their countryman, the late Sir Hector Munro of Novar. Between 1811 and 1821, a new system of farm- ing was introduced, which sufficiently accounts for the extraordi- nary falling off in the numbers. In 1821, when, according to the annual increase of 25, the population should have amounted to 1800, it was found to be only 1454, shewing a falling off to the number of 346 persons. During that period, numbers of small tenants were ejected in order to make way for farmers from the south, possessed of some capital, who, by their superior manage- ment, were able to afford higher rents. The more elevated dis- tricts of the parish, which were altogether unsuitable for cultivation, were converted into sheep«walks ; and numbers were thus deprived of all means of subsistence, and driven to seek in a^ foreign land for the shelter and protection which were denied them in their own. The right of landlords, however, to manage their properties accord- ing to their own pleasure, no one will pretend to doubt. As no material changes have occurred since 1831 to affect the ordinary increase, the population at present (1839) must amount to rather more than 1800. Of these about 500 reside in the vil* lage of Evantown, and the rest in the country. The yearly ave- rage of births for the last seven years is about 40 ; of deaths, 1 5 ; and of marriages, 9. This last average has continued unaltered since 1702. The annual number of deaths should properly be no more than 12, but the average for the last seven years has been raised to 15, by the great mortality in 1834 and 1837. In the former of these years, the number of deaths was 23, and in the latter no fewer than 28 died, chiefly old and sickly persons, who were cut off by influenza. During the last three years, there have been 4 illegitimate births in the parish. Character y 8fc. of the People. — The language generally spoken is an impure dialect of the Gaelic ; but it is rapidly losing ground. In the more Highland parts, it is better understood than English, KILTEAKN. 323 but in the low parts and in Evantown, both languages are spoken indifferently. The Gaelic School Society, by establishing schools throughout the country, have done much to eradicate the language. This may appear paradoxical ; but it is actually the case. Those children that had learned to read Gaelic found no difficulty in mastering the English ; and they had a strong inducement to do 80, because they found in that language more information suited to their capacity and taste, than could be found in their own. English being the language universally spoken by the higher class- es, the mass of the people attach a notion of superior refinement to the possession of it, which makes them strain every nerve to ac- quire it ; and it is no uncommon thing for those who have lived for a short time in the south, to affect on their return, a total for- getfiilness of the language which they had so long been in the ha- bit of using. The people are very temperate in their habits, and as most of the working people receive their wages only twice a year, they cannot have that command of money which would al- low them any improper indulgence. They are extremely hospita- ble. However poor their own fare may be, they are anxious to have something good to offer a stranger ; and thus a person entering one of their houses would scarcely believe that, with such apparent plenty, the inmates were probably struggling at the time with ex- treme poverty. This feature in the Highland character arises, it is to be feared, not so much from a principle of benevolence as from a love of ostentation, and a spirit of independence, which has sometimes exercised the wit of their more refined neighbours in the south, under the name of *' Highland pride." Their dress differs very little from that of the peasantry throughout the country generally. The kilt and trews have been long since laid aside, and the south country dress universally adopted. Many of the superstitious notions, once so abundant in the High^ lands, still continue to linger here ; but they too, like their expres- sive and poetical language, are fast retreating before the tide of improvement which has set in from the south. It is only in the very remote districts that ghosts are ever seen, and fairies are now known only by name. The belief in witchcraft, however, still con- tinues deeply rooted. In former times, when families, owing to distance and other circumstances, held little intercourse with each other through the day, numbers were in the habit of assembling together in the evening in one house, and spending the time in re- lating the tales of wonder which had been handed down to them 324 ROSS AND CROMARTY. by tradition. A singularly wild story of this kind, which was just on the eve of being entirely forgotten, has been preserved by Mr Miller in his ^* Scenes and Legends of the North of Scotland." (Pages 216, 222.) IV. — Industry. The number of acres in the parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, may be estimated at about 3000. The extent under natural pasture is unknown. It is believed that very little more could, with any prospect of profit, be added to what is already cultivated ; and indeed, much of what is now in cultivation would turn to more advantage, if kept in pasture. There is an undivided common between the properties of Fowlis and Inch- coulter, containing about 600 acres. A very considerable portion of the parish was about the middle of last century planted with firs, larch, ash, elm, oak, and other trees, suited to the climate. Many of these trees, particularly the fir plantations, were cut down a few years ago on the Fowlis property, and proved a source of much profit to the proprietor. Some of the hard-wood had at- tained to such a growth as to be fit for the purposes of ship-build- ing, and two ships were built and launched on the property. In other parts of the parish, there are some thriving plantations, which have not yet attained their full growth. Uent of Land. — The rent of arable land varies, according to the quality, from L. 1 to L. 2, 6s. per acre. The average charge for summering cattle, one, two, three, and four years old, may be stated at 15s., L.1, L.1, 10s., and L.2; and wintering, from L.1 to L. 1, 10s. ; but this must of course greatly depend on the feeding. The charge for grazing a full-grown sheep is from 2s. to 3s. a year. Wages. — The following are the wages usually given to farm la- bourers and country artisans : A ploughman for yearly wages gets a house, L. 6 in money, 6^ imperial bolls of meal, 6 bolls of potatoes, 10 barrels of coals, and a pint of milk for one-half of the year — in all about L. 18. Maid servants are paid from 1^3 to L. 4 a year. A mason gets about 2s. 6d., and a cartwright Is. 6d. a day. A sawyer gets Is. 8d. for the hundred feet; and a slaler 14s. the rood for laying on slates. An iron plough costs L.3, and a coup-cart from L. 8 to L. 10. Live-^tock. — The common breed of sheep in the parish is the black-faced or aboriginal sheep of the country, or sometimes crosses from them. In various parts, other kinds from the south, particu- larly Cheviots, have been introduced ; but on the hill grazings, the •5 KILTEARN* 325 black-faced are found to answer much better. On the low grounds, Cheviots are usually fed by gentlemen for their own tables or for the butcher. The common breeds of cattle are the Ross-shire and Argyleshire. The former are now kept only by some of the poorer people, and are usually small in size and very inferior. Ayrshire cattle were, for a considerable time, kept by gentlemen for their own dairies ; but they were nowhere kept for the rearing of &rm stock. Mr Sim, of Drummond, in this parish, was the first to introduce them on a large scale, and they were found to .answer exceedingly well. This gentleman lately introduced some pure short horns, which, when their good qualities are become sufficiently known and duly appreciated, may be expected in time to be universally adopted through the country. Agriculturists are now generally beginning to see that it is more for their advan- tage to improve the quality, than to increase the number of their cattle. Htubandry, — The usual duration of leases is nineteen years. This period is considered quite long enough to afford the tenant the utmost security of reaping any profit which may arise from his out- lays. The system of agriculture which has been pursued for many years back is very superior. No pains or expense have been spared in doing all manner of justice to the soil ; and the conse- quence is, that the crops raised are always equal, and often supe- rior to any in the country. The most common crops raised are, wheat, barley, oats, and some peas. Turnip husbandry has of late years received a great deal of attention ; as the general adoption of bone manure enables farmers to sow a greater quantity, which are used in winter for feeding hogs or for fattening stock for the ]M)uth country markets. Draining and inclosing have been carried on very extensively, and in some cases very judiciously. Large embankments were made, some years ago, at Newton and at Bal- cony, and a considerable tract of land, formerly quite unprofitable, was thus redeemed from the sea, and rendered fit for the purposes of agriculture. The principal improvements which have been made, were usually at the expense of the tenants, without the pros- pect of any remuneration from the proprietors. The late Mr Fraser, of Inchcoulter, a gentleman of great taste, expended large sums in the improvement of his property. He divided it into moderately sized farms, well fenced and enclosed. On all these farms, he erected steadings which are highly orna- mental to the country, and very convenient for the tenantry. 320 BOSS AND CUOMAHTY. Thrashing mills are now erected on most of the farms, and, where that is practicable, they are driven by water. There are, at pre- sent, nine of them in the parish, and five of them are driven by water. The first flour mill in the country was erected in 1821, by Mr Sim. It is driven by the water of the Skiack. Besides the flour mill, this water drives one meal, two barley, and three saw mills. There are also meal, flour, barley, and carding mills on the Aultgraad. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertaided, may be stated as follows: Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for the food of roaOf or the domestic animals, . . . • • Lm 8820 Of potatoes, turnips, beet, &c. . . 2400 Of grass, including natural, pasture, and cultivated grass, . 9600 Gardens and orchards, . . . . . 00 Fisheries, . . . 10 Miscellaneous produce, . .... 200 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, . . L. 15090 Of course, this can only be regarded as an approximation ; but it is believed to be very near the real amount It is usually cal* culated that the gross produce of a property should be thrice the rental ; and it will be seen that the above amount bears very near- ly that ratio to the estimated real annual value of the land. The valued rent of the whole parish is L.dl49, 9s. 6d. Scots. The real value in 1791 was estimated at L. 1500 Sterling; in 1810, at L.3068, 8s. 5d.; and at present, (1839), it is about L. 5300. There is no manufacture carried on to any extent. Even the home-made stuffs, which the peasantry used to wear, are now near- ly discontinued, as they find it cheaper to purchase than to manu- facture them. In many respects, it is very desirable that a ma- nufacture of some kind should be established in the village of Evantown, where there are so many unemployed children, who might thus be enabled to assist their parents in providing for their support. V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUToumj ^c— There is no market-town in the parish; and the nearest is Dingwall, at the distance of six miles. There is one village, called Evantown, containing about 100 houses, and a population of about 500. This village, which had no existence thirty years ago, is built upon a waste piece of land, KILTEARN. ,327 and differs from all others in the country, by its regular and neat appearance. Fairs, — There are two fairs annually held in it, on the first Tuesdays of June and December ; but, since the general intro- duction of shops into all the villages, they are not well attended. Means of Communication. — The means of communication en- joyed by the parish are very considerable. Ever since 1819, the mail-coach passes north and south through it daily ; whilst there are, for the greater part of the year, smacks sailing to and from Leith, I/>ndon, and Newcastle, principally in the corn, wood, and coal trade. The great line of Parliamentary road runs along the shore through the breadth of the parish, and communicates with the northern parts by means of excellent county roads. In the more remote parts of the mountainous districts, the roads are so wretch- edly bad as scarcely to deserve the name. The Parliamentary line passes over two neat and substantial bridges, one at the east, and the other at the west end of the village of Evantown. There are no harbours in the parish ; but there are two or three situations where they might very easily be erected, and where vessels of con- siderable burden could conveniently load and unload. Ecclesiastical State, — The church is situated on the coast, near the south-east end of the parish, and is distant about twenty miles from its north-west boundaries. The situation is particularly in- convenient for the attendance of the people. At the time when churches and manses were first built in this country, the small spots in cultivation lay principally along the shore, and this may account for the inconvenience of situation. At any rate, more attention seems to have been paid to the comfort of the minister than to the convenience of the people. Even that, however, has failed to be secured ; for a clergyman who is in the habit of visiting his pa- rish will find the labour of that duty greatly increased. The pre- sent church was built in 1791, and is a neat and very commodious building, quite sufficient for the accommodation of the people. It contains 78 pews, 786 feet in length, which, at the rate of 'eighteen inches for each sitter, would give accommodation to 524. More than 700, however, can find room with comfort, if necessary. No rents are taken by the heritors for the seats ; and there are some forms exclusively devoted to the use of the poor. These can accommodate abcAit 60 persons. The manse was originally built in 1762, and was repaired and much enlarged in 1806. It is a very commodious building, con- 328 UOSS AND CllOMAttTY. taining several large and airy rooms, with all the necessary offices and out-houses attached in excellent repair. The extent of the glebe is about 9 imperial acres arable ; but a considerable portion of it consists of land redeemed from the sea by the present incum- bent. This part ia always subject to encroachments by the sea and river ; and the embankments require constant repairs. The grass glebe consists of one acre of very, little value, separated from the rest of the glebe by the Skiack, and of a few detached pieces of carse ground covered at high water by the tide. The stipend con- sists of 16 chalders or 256 bolls, half oatmeal and half barley, for which the heritors pay according to the fiars prices in the county of Ross. All the ministers were fettled by a popular call until ] 770. Mr George Watson was, soon thereafter, settled by a Crown presentation ; as were also his two successors. There is one chapel connected with the United Secession in the village. of Evantown. The minister is one of three paid by that body for preaching in Highland districts, and receives a sa- lary of L. 80. Without such aid, no minister could live upon the voluntary support of the people, their earnings being barely sufficient to support their own families. The chapel can contain 400 ; but only about 170 attend regularly: and of these only two or three fami- lies are really Seceders. The average number of communicants in the Established Church is 28; and of these 14 are heads of families. Education, — There are two schools in the parish : the parochial school at Drummond, and an unendowed school in the village of Evantown. In the former, the following are the branches taught, and the quarterly fees, as settled by the heritors in May 1838^ viz. English reading, 2s., with grammar, 2s. 6d., with arithmetic and geography, ds. 6d. ; Latin and Greek, 4s. The schoolmaster's salary formerly consisted of 1 chalder barley, 2 bolls meal, and 100 merks; but in 1823 it was fixed at L. 30, with a garden. The yearly amount of the fees is about L. 20. The heritors fur- nish the legal accommodations. The number of the young be- tween six and fifteen years of age who are unable to read or write, cannot be precisely ascertained ; but in the neighbourhood of the parish school, they are very few. By far the greater part of the people can read the Scriptures, and the few who cannot are aged people, who had no opportunity of learning in their youth. Were one to form a judgment from the small number attending the schools, it might be thought that the people are not in general KILTICAUN. 329 alive to the benefits of education ; but a closer view of the subject will lead to a very different opinion. Such is the general poverty, that the parents find it necessary to employ thoseof their children who can do any work, to earn something for their maintenance : and it is only in winter, when no out-door employment is to be had, that the children can attend school at all. Small though the expense of education be, it could scarcely be expected that a poor man, with L. 6 a*year, could clothe himself, a wife, and perhaps half-a-dozen children, and have any surplus to bestow on the edu- cation of his family. There are, it is true, some noble instances of parents submitting to the greatest sacrifices and privations in order to educate their children ; and widows have been known to spend the day in hard toil, and the greater part of the night in spinning or knitting, with this laudable object in view. Such in* stances, however creditable to these individuals, cannot but indi- cate some defects in a system which requires such sacrifices, and presents such obstacles to the education of the poor. There is at least one-half of the population so distant from the school that the attendance of the children is rendered quite impossible : and two additional schools are in consequence required ; one more, indeed, is absolutely necessary. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid, for some years back, amounts to 63. At present, there are 57 on the roll. This reduction in the number has been partly occasioned by the great mortality among the aged and poor in the spring of 1 837, and partly by a regulation adopted by the heritors and session in that same year, which has the efiect of preventing all who can do anything for their own maintenance from applying for relief. This regulation requires of all who wish to be placed on the roll, to sign a disposition in favour of the kirk- session, leaving all their cfiects to the poor after their lawful debts are paid. When a husband or wife is admitted, the effects con- tinue in the possession of the survivor till death, when they fall to the session. The poor are divided into three classes. Those in the first class (at present containing 14,) receive 8s. a-year; the second class of 13, receives 6s. ; and the third class, comprising chiefly those who can do something for their own support, contains 80 pef'sons, who receive 3s. If any of the funds remain after this, they are given away in small donations to a few indigent persons who are not on the roll. The money thus distributed arises from various sums mortified, at different periods, by natives of the pa- R08S AND CROMARTY. Y 330 ROSS AND CROMARTY. rish for the benefit of the poor, which at present amount to L.400, laid out at 5 per cent.; and from the church collections^ which for the last seven years average L. 4, lis. together with mortcloth dues and other small sums, — in all amounting to about L.28. The sum at the disposal of the session for distribution, after deducting clerk's salary, &c. usually exceeds L.17. The miserable pittance thus allowed to each in the year, scarcely exceeding the weekly allowance of an able-bodied pauper in England, is totally inade- quate to the relief of their distress. The greatest misery and want prevail in consequence, to an extent that would seem incredible to those who have not actually witnessed them. It is no uncommon thing for an unmarried female or lonely widow, who has survived all her friends, to live in a wretched hovel, without fire, bed-clothes, or food, in the depth of winter. Such a state of things in a country abounding with all the necessaries and many of the luxuries of life, indicates a defect somewhere. One undoubted cause of the evil may be found in the low wages of labourers, which are barely sufficient to support a life of drudgery and toil, without enabling them, though they were so inclined, to make provision for an old age of misery and want. There is no assessment of the parish by the session for the relief of the poor ; but some provision is abso- lutely necessary. Those who can contribute any thing for their own support, ma- nifest the greatest reluctance to receive aid from the parish, and regard it as highly degrading ; but it is to be feared that this praiseworthy feeling is fast losing ground. It could scarcely be expected, indeed, that a spirit of independence could long resist the effects of absolute want and misery. Miscellaneous Observations. It now remains only to mention briefly a few of the more strik- ing differences betwixt the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the former Statistical Account. Since 1791, when the former Account was written, the face of the parish has physically undergone a very striking change. At that period, the low grounds were divided into small farms occupied by tenants, none of whom paid rent to the amount of L,100. There were only two, indeed, who reached L. 80. These small farms have now been thrown together and improved, so as to afford rents of L.300, L. 500, and even L. 700; and the land, instead of presenting a few detached spots, occasionally under crop, is now divided into large and highly cultivated fields. But it will be unnecessary to KILTEARN. 331 lay any more on this subject, as the principal improvements have been noticed under the head Industry, TTie houses of the peasantry, some years ago, were merely wretched hovels — themselves, their cattle, pigs, and poultry living under the same roof. At present, there are many neat and com- fortable cottages in the country, and well built houses in the village. It is not in the physical appearance alone of the parish, that a change is visible. Those who are old enough to remember the former period declare, without exception, that a change for the worse has taken place in the moral character of the people. Some ascribe this to the increase of villages throughout the country : others, laudatores temporis acti^ are disposed to ascribe it to the gradual deterioration which this world has physically and morally undergone since men began to record their opinions of the times in which they lived. Whatever discrepancy there may be in the causes assigned, there is but one opinion as to the fact, that vice and immorality are now more common than formerly. The po- verty and degraded state of the lower classes appear to furnish the only rational explanation. In the former state of the parish, many occupied that respectable rank in society which is now confined to a few. These felt an interest in maintaining a good character, and their conduct had a beneficial influence on all immediately under them. There are, however, few or no breaches of the law which require the interference of the magistrate ; and only one case of criminal prosecution has been known to occur since the beginning of this century, and even that one was not of an aggra- vated nature. In ancient times, before those useful members of society the le- gal functionaries had effected a lodgment in the vicinity, (for hap- pily none have yet been induced to settle in the parish,) it would appear that when any misdemeanour was committed, they adopted a more expeditious process than the modern one for bringing the offender to justice.* A dispute having arisen at the beginning of the seventeenth century between the Baron of Fowlis and the Laird of Tulioch, about the boundaries of their estates at a part where they were conterminous, the matter was referred to arbiters, and witnesses were called and examined on the disputed ground. There was a large stone, which was alleged by the one party to lie in the mertie judicial ftrbititition in 1S33 332 ROSS AND CUOMAUTY. line of the march. One of the Tulloch witnesses stepped upon the disputed ground, and declared that he was ready to swear that the ground on which he stood belonged to Tulloch. Either his man- ner of expression or his known character excited suspicion. The other party seized upon him, pulled off his shoes, and .actually found that, to avoid all possibility of perjuring himself, he had taken Xhe precaution, before leaving home, to line the soles of his shoes with earth from the Tulloch" garden. There was no tedious trial by jury. The poor wretch was immediately dragged to the stone and his ears cut off either upon or beside it ; and from this circum- stance, it has ever since borne the name of clachnacluaiSf or the stone of the ear. Juffust 1839. PARISH OF ALNESS.* PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. ALEXANDER FLYTER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Alness appears to be the only name which has, at any period, been given to this parish. It is compounded of two Gaelic words, auldj signifying a burn or small river, and neasj a point. Extent, Boundaries, Sfc, — The extreme length of this parish from north to south, though from the mountainous and unculti- vated character of a great part of it, it has not been exactly ascer- tained, may be stated at 20 miles. The breadth from east to west varies very considerably at different points, and may be con- sidered as giving an average of 5 miles throughout the entire length. The parish of Alness is bounded on the north by imagi- nary lines dividing it from that of Kincardine ; and on the south, by the shores of the Cromarty Frith. On the east, it is divided from the parish of Rosskeen by the river of Alness ; and on the west, from that of Kiltearn by the river Auldgrande. Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the parish is pleasing, as it is well wooded, and presents to the eye an agreeable variety of moor and cultivated land. The lands lying • Drawn up by James Flytc, A. M. Alness. ALNESS. liXi in the southern extremity, and on the shores of the Cromarty Frith, are in general flat, and, with very little exception, cultivat- ed. Towards the north, however, the character of the country is entirely changed, and becomes mountainous and barren. The hills, though some of them are of considerable heinrht, do not occur in any continuous chain or group, but, like the generality of those in this county, present a scattered and straggling appearance. There is nothing very remarkable in the structure or composition of any of them ; but one, having an elevation of about 1000 feet above the level of the sea, may be conjectured, both from its name,* (Fy- rish,) and from its proximity to the shores of the frith, to have been employed at some remote period as a station for beacon lights. Climate. — The climate may be described as dry and salubrious. There are no diseases which can be said to be peculiar to, or even prevalent in, the parish ; but, on the contrary, the inhabitants gene- rally, and those of one of the highland districts in particular, are characterized by their health and longevity. It is evident also that the climate has under;[rone a considerable chanjre for the bet- ter since the vear 1793, when the former Statistical Account was written ; for, since that period, the important operation of drainage, together with other improvements in agriculture which have been introduced, and the immense extent of moorland which has been planted, must have greatly modified the general state of the at mosphere. Hydrography, — The only body of salt water connected with the district is the Cromarty Frith, which forms the southern bound- ary of this parish. The entire length of the frith does not ex ceed twenty miles, and at that part which is contiguous to Alness its average breadth may be stated at two miles. So great, however, is the quantity of fresh water continually flowing into it from the rivers and occasional mountain torrents, that the character of the water as regards its saltness is greatly modified. The water is ge- nerally considered to decrease in strength in proportion to its dis- tance inland, and at this point it may be regarded as having lost one-half of its saltness, and is therefore, by experiment, only one- sizty-fourth part denser than common fresh water. The parish is well supplied with fresh water, in all the forms in which it is found collected. Many springs are to be met with in the diffe- rent districts, all of them supplying excellent water, and generally • Fairc is Uic Gaelic word for bu.icon or watch. 334 ROSS AND CKOMAUXy. of a low temperature. There are none, however, in which the water has any peculiar mineral character, except one or two bear- ing a small quantity of lime in solution. In the northern dis- tricts there are two fresh-water lochs, each of them about three miles in length, with an average breadth of one mile. Neither of them is destitute of the ordinary beauties of highland scenery ; but the more remarkable is the easterly one, which is called Muire or Mary, taking its name from a Roman Catholic place of wor- ship, built in a romantic glen at one extremity of the loch, and the ruins of which still exist. This collection of water is of no great extent, yet, from its position, and the immense height of the rocky precipices which rise on either side, it affords an excellent speci- men of what may be termed the sublime in mountain scenery. Another feature in its character, and one which is worthy of no- tice, is its great depth, which might be inferred as well from the immense height of the rocks on either side, as from the fact, that even in the most severe and protracted frosts, its water has never been known to freeze farther than a few yards from the side. There is no river which can properly be said to belong to this parish, for though both the Alness and Auldgrande take their rise within its bounds, they rather bound than intersect it. The for- mer originates in Loch Muire, which has been already noticed, and after flowing for about fifteen miles in a winding direction, falk into the Cromarty Frith. Though larger, it is not, however, so in- teresting or so worthy of remark as the Auldgrande, which, from the singular character of part of its channel, forms one of the most striking natural curiosities in the north. Issuing from a small but beautifully situated loch, at the foot of Ben Wyvis, it flows for se- veral miles, gradually increasing in size, in consequence of the number of torrents which pour themselves into it from the neigh- bouring hills. When within three miles of the sea, its banks on either side suddenly heighten and contract, and the waters be* coming invisible, from the depth of the gulf, and the quantity of under-wood growing on its sides, their presence is discovered only by the hollow roaring within, resembling at times the noise of con- tinued thunder. The whole length of the chasm is about a mile and a-half ; but so near do the sides approach each other, that boys have been known to cross on branches of trees, growing from the sides, and stretching across the centre. There is^no convenient way of crossing the chasi^, except at one part where a wooden bridge has been thrown across. But even here, from the great ALNKSS. 335 depth and narrowness of the opening, an observer, though obtain- ing a view directly downwards, can scarcely discern the water, as it boils and hisses b^low. A stone of ordinary density, dropped from the bridge, strikes the surface of the water in three seconds, giving a depth of about 140 feet, which may be regarded as the average depth of the chasm unoccupied by water. The depth beneath the water is not so easily ascertained, and most probably varies consi- derably at different points in the length. On examining the course of the Auldgrande, two very interest- ing subjects of inquiry are naturally suggested : Ist^ What are the causes which have operated in the production of a phenomenon so unusual ? And 2d', what are those traditions, which, though now fast dying avray, the superstitious character of the Highlanders cannot have failed to connect with a place of such a description ? These questions, however, will more properly find a place under the re- spective heads of Geology and Antiquities. Geology and Mineralogy. — To the researches of the geologist, the parish of Alness presents a field of inquiry neither very inte- resting nor instructive. The best geological section that can per- haps be obtained of the district, is that given by the course of the Alness; and from an examination of the rocks denuded by this stream, together with those which appear occasionally on the sides of the hills, it may be inferred that the parish rests entirely on the old red sandstone formation, leaning to the north on gneiss, and some of the other primitive rocks of the Wernerian nomenclature. The sandstone strata, as laid bare by the Alness, exhibit great uni- formity in texture, composition, and external appearance ; but they have yielded no traces of organic remains, either animal or vege- table, to any observations as yet made upon them. In ascending the stream, the strata are found to dip to the south-east by east, at an angle varying from 12^ to 20^ till the observer arrives at a certain point, about two miles from the Frith, when they change their direction, and djp at much the same angle to the opposite point of the compass. Immediately beneath the sandstone occurs a bed of conglomerate, which also belongs to the old red sandstone fonnation. It is chiefly composed of roimded pebbles of quartzite or quartz rock, and sometimes of pure quartz. These rounded masses vary in size, from a small fraction of an inch to a foot in diameter, and are held together by an arenaceous cement. Notice has been taken in a former part of this account of the extraordinary chasm through which the Auldgrande flows for some 336 UOSS AND CROMARTY. distance. It is not, strictly speaking, within the parish of Alness, but, as it forms part of the jirestern boundary to the parish, it ap- pears worthy of notice, especially as it is interefting in a geologi- cal point of view. The chasm, as has already been stated, is up- wards of 140 feet in depth, and about a mile and a quarter in length, occurring in a thick bed of conglomerate, apparently of the old red sandstone period. In order to account for its formation, one of two opinions must be adopted. The water must either by continual action have worn down the channel to the present depth, or the fissure must be referred entirely to a fault in the rock, the chasm occasioned by the fault having either remained unoccupied, or been filled up with loose material, which could offer no great resistance to Tunning water. The former supposition is rendered more probable, if we suppose that when the water first began to flow, the rock was softer than it now is. Each of the pebbles which form the conglomerate would then, when once set in motion, lend its aid by abrasion in deepening the channel. The conclusion that such a process gave rise to the chasm, is therefore probable at first sight ; but on a closer examination, it is not found consistent with observation on many streams which flow over exactly the same species of rock. Oh the contrary, where a stream flows over this species of conglomerate, which is very frequently the case in this district, the water seldom or never finds its way further than a few feet into the rock. From the cir- cumstance that the rock in which the fissure has been made is a conglomerate, and not a regularly stratified mass, we are deprived of the additional confirmation to the supposition of a fault, which might be derived from stricBy and other appearances usually observ- ed on the sides of shifted strata. But the single fact of its great depth, taken in connection with what is observed in similar streams^ suiBciently warrants us to conclude, that the chasm has not been owing to any abrasive process in the course of the stream, but must be referred to a pre-existing jfaulf Ores. — About five miles from the Frith, and on the property of Finlay Munro of Lealdie, an iron-ore has been discovered, which, from all appearances, may be of considerable extent. Previous to the writing of the former Statistical Account, a specimen was sent to the Carron Company, at their own desire, which was found to yield 75 lbs. iron per cwt. The rock in which the vein occurs is a gneiss, and it is worthy of remark, as confirmatory of an obser* ALNESS. 337 vation already made id geology, that the metallic vein is injected into the primary rock, at a point not many yards distant from its junction with the aqueous or sedimentary strata. Banders. — The only remaining feature which is in the least de- gree striking in the geology of this parish, is the frequent occur- rence throughout its surface of immense boulders or erratic blocks of stone. In the more cuhivated parts, these obstructions to thq plough have for the most part been removed, by blasting or other- wise : but in the moorland districts, and studding the sides of the hills, they are seen in great numbers, and of various shapes and sizes. These rounded masses belong entirely to the primary class of rocks, being composed either of granite or gneiss ; and as they must have been transported from a great distance to occupy their present locality, it becomes a problem of considerable interest to discover where they occurred in sihi. Zoology, — The animals to be found in this parish are all of the same species as those commonly to be met with throughout the country ; and it is therefore unnecessary to notice them particu- larly. In the lower parts of the parish, hares, .rabbits and par- tridges are to be met with in great abundance ; and in the more hilly and uncultivated districts are found moorfowlor grouse, black- cock and roe. Foxes were very numerous some years ago, but they seem now to be totally extirpated. Of the rarer birds existing in this country, the eagle, pheasant, and ptarmigan, arc occasionally to be seen in this parish. The fish commonly taken in the Frith are of those kinds which live indifferently in fresh or salt water ; the water in the Frith having, as has already been stated, not above one-half the strength of undiluted salt water. In the rivers and lochs, but principally in the latter, are to be found several species of black trout, which, in consetquence perhaps of their not being {egularly taken, frequently attain to an immense size. The salmon and salmon trout taken in the Frith and rivers are of a very superior quality, and would be very numerous, were it not for the poaching and fishing during close season, which for many years has prevailed to a great extent. It may here be remarked, that the salmon-fishing along the shore of the Frith is uncom- monly late, no fish being taken, in general, till the month of June. The salmon are supposed, by those having charge of the fishing, to go up the rivers to spawn during the month of September, and not to return again till the beginning of February. 338 ROSS AND CROMARTY. II. — Civil History. There does not appear to have been any account of this parish drawn up, either printed or in manuscript, if we except the former Statistical Account, written by the Rev. Angus Bethune, one of its ministers. The session records are, perhaps, the only written source from which information can be expected, as to the former igtate of Highland parishes ; but even these, in the present case, are wanting, till within a comparatively recent period. The re- cords are said to have been regularly kept in former times, but seem to have disappeared at or soon after the death'of Mr Fraser, one of the ministers of this parish, who died in October 1769. The documents in question were most probably carried away among the papers of that individual. The minutes of session have since that period been regularly entered and preserved ; but, not having even the claims of antiquity to recommend them to no- tice, they contain nothing interesting or important to the general reader. The traditional history of the parish appears to have been more considerable, if we may judge from the fragments which can still be gathered. It is now, however, fast dying away with the language originally spoken. One or two circumstances, it may be proper to state, which, though they possess no higher authority than that of oral tradition, are, nevertheless, founded in fact, and are therefore worthy of notice. It is said that, soon after the accession of William IIL, the pa- rish was visited by a famine of such severity, that in one district, extensive as well as populous, the number of the inhabitants was reduced to three. On that occasion, if the accounts of tradition can be believed, the people were under the necessity of forming common coffins, into which the dead, being thrown promiscuously, were committed to the earth, without even the ordinary solemni- ties of funeral. Connected with another period, equally* interesting in the his- tory of Scotland, some incidents occurred, which are worthy of no- tice. The period ^o which we allude is that which succeeded the restoration of Charles, when an attempt was made to do away with the Presbyterian form of worship in Scotland, andi^ introduce Prelacy in its room. The minister of Alness at this time was a Mr Mackilligen, who, from his conduct, appears to have been a man of no ordinary strength of mind. In the year 1662, Paterson was ordained Bishop of Ross, and all the clergy throughout the 4 ALNESS. 339 country being commanded by order of council to attend the dio- cesan meetings, Mackilligen, together with three others, were the only ministers in the diocese of Ross who possessed the inclination, together with the strength of principle, to resist the innovations. These four individuals were, in consequence of their resistance, immediately ejected from their charges, but Mackilligen, possessing more boldness than the rest, remained in Alness discharging his duties, notwithstanding the threats of bishop and council, which had ordained that no nonconforming minister should take up his abode within twenty miles of his former church. *^ Mr Mackil- ligen, a faithful and active preacher of the forbidden doctrines," says Mr Miller, in his Scenes and Legends, seems to have given him (the bishop) so much trouble, that he even threatened to ex- communicate him ; but the minister, regarding his threat in the proper light, replied to it by comparing him to Balaam, the wicked prophet, who went forth to curse Israel, and to Shimei,* the son of Grera, who cursed David. The joke spread, for as such was it re- garded, and Paterson, who had only the sanctity of his office to oppose to the personal sanctity of his opponent, deemed it prudent to urge the threat no farther. He had the mortification of being laughed at for having urged it so far. There is a little hollow among the hills, about three miles from the house of Fowlis, and not much farther from Alness, in the gorge of which the eye com- mands a wide prospect of the lower lands, and the whol^ Frith of Cromarty. It lies, too, on the extreme edge of the cultivated part of the country, for behind there stretches only a brown uninha- bited desert ; and in this hollow, the neighbouring Presbyterians used to meet for the purpose of religious worship. On some oc- casions, they were even bold enough to assemble in the villages. In the summer of 1675, Mr Mackilligen, assisted by his brethren of Tain and Cromarty, and the Laird of Brea, celebrated the com- munion at Obsdale, in the house of the lady-dowager of Fowlis. ^* A party had been despatched at the instance of the bishop," continues the same author, ** to take Mackilligen prisoner ; but misinformed regarding the place where the meeting was held, they proceeded to his house at Alness, and spent so much time in pil- laging his'garden, that, before they reached Obsdale, he had got out of their way ; but he fell into the hands of his enemy, the bishop, the following year, and during his long imprisonment in the Bass, for to such was he sentenced, he contracted a disease of which he died." 340 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Eminent Characters. — In a parish, where, till within a compara- tively recent period, the prevailing, and indeed almost the only lan- guage in use was the Gaelic, few instances can be expected of indivi- duals rising to literary eminence. Among that class of the people, however, which an acquaintance with the English langimge enabled to keep pace with the march of modern improvement, such instances have not been wanting. Few names, we believe, connected with this part of the country are more deserving of notice, than that of Mr James Frascr, one of the ministers of Alness. Thiseminent individual was born in the year 1700, and was the son of the Rev. John Fraser, also a minister of the parish, and well known on account of the suf- ferings which he endured for his steady adherence to the principles and constitution of the Church of Scotland, during the persecu- tion of 1679 or 1680. The Rev. James Fraser, in whose history we are more immediately interested, was very young when his father die^H, and could not, therefore, be immediately appointed to the parish, but on the death of Mr Daniel Mackilligen, who was the immediate successor of his father, he was inducted, being then twenty-six years of age. He appears to have been a man as much distinguished for the talents necessary to eminence as a public character, as for the virtues which rendered him so much esteem- ed as a private Christian. For his literary eminence, he was, how- ever, chiefly indebted to his great strength of judgment, and acuteness in Biblical criticism. This talent he displayed in axri- tical work on Sanctification ; and in a sketch of his life, prefixed to the work, we find him spoken of in the following terms. As it will serve in some degree to point out the nature of the work, we may quote the words. ^^ His distinguished abilities as a sacred critic appear in the following treatise, from the strong and mas- terly manner in which he has examined some of the most eminent Socinian and Arminian commentators. The judicious reader will easily see that the author's understanding was quick, clear, and penetrating, his judgment solid, and his learning very extensive. His public ministrations were highly edifying, and contained rich entertainment for the learned as well as the unlearned." The next individual who appears particularly deserving of notice in the biographical history of this parish, is General Sir Hector Munro, K.B. He was one of the principal proprietors when the former Statistical Account was written ; and rendered himself fa- mous by his exploits in India during the war which was carried on there towards the close of the eighteenth century. ALNESS. 341 From an anecdote which is still current in the family of the Munros, it appears that he owed his 6rst commission in the King's service, and probably the whole of his after success and military glory, to a circumstance in itself trivial. A lady of considerable rank, happening to travel alone in a thinly peopled part of the country, was left in a helpless and unprotected state, in her car- riage, from her postilion getting intoxicated. Sir Hector, then quite a youth, Gnding her in this condition, took the place of the drunken coachman, and rendered her considerable service. For his activity and gnllantry on this occasion, the lady was so grateful, that she did not relax her exertions, till, by her influence, she had procured him a commission in the army. Without entering mi- nutely into the particulars of his life, some idea may be given of his eminence as an officer, by quoting shortly from an interesting ac- count of the military operations in which he was engaged, written by an officer in the same service. The first occasion on which Sir Hector Munro signalized himself in India was immediately after the hostile intentions of France had become manifest ; when the British Parliament and the East India Company boldly determined to strike the first blow in the east. Government had at this time resolved, as the Mahratta war had already employed so many of the Company's troops, to send out a squadron with fresh supplies, and 1000 Highlanders, composing the seventy-third regiment, to assist in the reduction of Pondicherry, and for other services in India. " It happened, however," says the officer to whom we are indebted for information on the subject, " that intelligen(*e of this resolution had no sooner been transmitted overland to India, than the presi- dency of Madrass found means to collect force enough themselves for that purpose, before the seventy-third could arrive ; with which Major General Sir Hector Munro quickly laid siege to Pondicherry; and, notwithstanding every effort of M. Bellccombe and his officers, the garrison was obliged to capitulate in less than six weeks after* wards ; and, according to orders, the ramparts of that extensive and beautiful city were completely levelled with the ground." Passing over several actions on the Coromandel coast, in all of which Sir Hector Munro signalized himself more or less, but in which he acted either as second in command, or in conjunction with other officers, we may notice the taking of Negapatnam, which was conducted and finally accomplished under his sole command. The garrison had been strongly reinforced by a large detachment of Hyder Ally's troops, and consisted, at the time it was besieged, of 342 llOSS AND CROMARTY. 7000 Sepoys and upwards of 600 Europeans. Sir Hector Munro having taken command of the army, sat down before the place on the 21st of October, and before the middle of next month, the garrison was obliged to capitulate. After describing minutely the taking of Negapatnam, the officer from whom we have already quoted gives the following testimony to his merit, alluding at the same time to his former services at Pondicherry. " Thus were two of the most formidable foreign garrisons upon the coast of Coromandel razed to the ground, un- der the conduct and command of Major- General Sir Hector Munro; and what to his honour as a man, wiH equal his reputation as a general, was his humane and magnanimous carriage towards those whom the fortune of war had placed within his power. The be- sieged and captive inl^bitants of either place, instead of having cause to accuse him with the wanton commission of cruelties and injustice-T-an impeachment but too common in this licentious country, have echoed throughout the whole tract of Asia, the most grateful paneygrics upon his benevolence, humanity, generosity, and good faith." Land-owners. — The proprietors of the parish are, H. A. J. Munro of Novar, Major- General Munro of Teaninich, and Finlay Munro of Lealty. Of these the 6rst mentioned possesses in extent more than two-thirds of the parish ; but a great part of the pro- perty being either moorland or plantation, is chiefly valuable as affording pasturage for sheep and for its game. In order to con- trast the present state of the parish as regards the extent and di- vision of property, with that which existed at a period considerably earlier, it may here be stated, that in the year 1726 there were twelve proprietors of land in the parish. These were Munro of Novar; M'Kenzie of Assynt; Munro of Fyrish; Mcintosh of Contlich ; M'Leod of Culcragie ; Mackilligen of Balachragan ; Munro of Lealty ; Munro of Caul ; Simson of the Quarter of Al- ness ; Munro of Ceanuachdrach ; and Fraser of Cromraon. Antiquities, — Under the head Antiquities, there is not much that is interesting connected with this parish. At a place called Multivie, two cairns were discovered some years ago, buried to a considerable depth in the earth. They appear to have been sim- ply square enclosures, or boxes, constructed by placing together immense flat stones. On being opened, they were found to con- tain human bones, which are said to have been of a very large size. These extraordinary repositories of the dead, however, ALNESS. 343 cease to have any peculiar interest attached to them, as so many of a similar description have been discovered throughout the coun- try. The custom of burying in this manner appears to have been an honour conferred in ancient times, on the chiefs of clans, or on individuals distinguished in some other way. In the hill ground, and almost on the march line which separates the pro- perties of Teaninich and Ardross, there is a stone of remarkable size, known by the name of " Clach airidh a Mhinistir.** The tradition connected with this stone has shared the fate of many others, and nothing is now left us but the name. From the name, which signifies the minister's shealing^ we may infer that there ex- isted there a piece of land, which was employed as grazing or pasturage ground by one of the ministers of the parish. On a bleak and dreary spot, in the moor not far from Gildermorry, there is also a stone or rather two immense stones, piled one up- on the other, in a very extraordinary manner, and having the ap- pearance at first view of being the effect of art rather than of na- ture. Among the nearest inhabitants, it is known by the name of " Clach nam ban^* which signifies the stone of the women. The tradition regarding this place must have originated at a remote period, and is now very imperfectly related. Several women, it appears, were proceeding during the depth of winter to the Ro- man Catholic Chapel at Gildermorry, and carrying with them bundles of hemp or flax. When near this place, they were over- taken by a snow storm, and, in order to escape the rigour of the blast, they took shelter under the pile. The storm, however, which was of very long continuance, and almost unexampled se- •verity, was then only in its birth : and not for many weeks could any trace be discovered of the women of the stone. When the covering of snow had at length been partially removed, some of their friends coming to the spot, found their bodies lying at the foot of the pile, and beside them was erected a stick, which they had probably found at the place, on which was suspended one of the bundles of hemp as a memorial of their fate. In a glen at one extremity of Loch Muire, which has already been noticed under the head Hydrography, there are still to be seen the ruins of a Roman Catholic place of worship, from which circumstance we may conclude, that that district of the parish which is at present inhabited only by a few individuals, was, at a former period, at least thinly peopled. The chapel occupies a very romantic situation at the head of the loch, and is surrounded 314 UOSS AND CROMARTY. by a burying ground. It is only 40 feet long by 18 broad in the inside ; but the walls are almost 4 feet in thickness, and so indurated has the lime which cements t]ie stones become, that it is almost impossible to separate them. There is no date now distinguishable to show at what period it was built. Near the chapel, there is a spring called " Tobair na Muire^*'' or Mary's Well, obviously taking its name from the circumstance of itslieing consecrated to the Virgin Mary. The water of the spring was thought by the people to have the peculiar virtue of healing dis- ease either in man or beast, provided they visited the spot : and under this impression, pieces of coloured cloth were left as offer* ings to the numen of the place. The offerings made to the offi- ciating priest were probably more substantial and valuable dona- tions. III. Po PUL ATI o N. There are now no means of accurately ascertaining the state of the population in this parish at a very remote period. From all the information that can be gathered on the subject, it appears, that, for a long scries of years, the population has been increasing, though by no means rapidly. Previous to the time at which the former Statistical Account was written, the number seems for many years to have been almost stationary, but since that period, and from the commencement of the Parliamentary census taken at different periods, there has been a regular increase. In the former Account, which was written, we believe, in the year 1793, the number of persons then inhabiting the parish is stated at 1 12), of whom 800 are stated as having been above seven years of age. The number now living in the parish is 1440. The chief cause, apparently, of the low ratio of increase may be traced to a practice now becoming too common throughout the country, of convert- ing districts of land which have been formerly tenanted by a num- ber of small farmers or crofters into large farms. The tenantry thus ejected are obliged either to emigrate to some of the colo- nies, or to congregate in the villages at home. Language. — Till the end of the eighteenth century, the prevail- ing, and, indeed, almost the only language in use, was the Gaelic Since that period, however, the English has been advancing ra- pidly ; chiefly in consequence of the schools which have been established in the different districts of the parish, and partly from the difficulty experienced by the Highlanders, speaking the Gaelic alone, in transacting business in the more southern parts of the 3 ALNESS. 345 country. Though there are still some of the older inhabitants, who, in consequence of their not being able to read, and from their having spent the greater part of their lives in the use of the Gaelic language exclusively, have not become acquainted with the English, it may be stated generally, that there is now no individual in the parish, under twenty years of age, who does not understand the more modem language in a greater or less degree. Character of the People, — The people of this parish cannot be said to differ greatly from the rest of the population of the coun* try. They are sober, and, upon the whole, industrious, attending strictly to the ordinances of religion. There is a difference, how- ever, very strikingly marked, between the village population and that of the rural and more northern districts. The character of the latter is decidedly the more favourable one. They still pos« sess many of the traits peculiar to the character of the ancient Highlanders, while among the former, there is scarcely a trace left to remind us of the race from which they sprung. As one striking characteristic of the poorer classes in these rural districts, it may be remarked, that they have a decided reluctance to apply for charitable aid, either public or private. Smuggling and Poaching. — Some years ago, illicit distillation was carried on to a considerable extent, especially in the more Highland districts. It is now, however, totally abolished. The practice of salmon poaching during close season, by means of the spear and torch light, is also in a great measure discontinued. IV. — Industry. Half a century has now nearly elapsed since the former Statis- tical Account was written, and in that space of time, changes more or less must have taken place in all parts of the country. In this parish many important improvements have been effected. That a great change for the better has take^ place in the method of cultivating the soil, is sufficiently attested by the fact, that, within the period alluded to, it has more than doubled its value. This is to be attributed, partly, perhaps, to an improvement in the im- plements of husbandry, but principally, we believe, to a better and more regular alternation of cropping, to the use of lime, be- fore unknown, and to the more general introduction of drainage. A change no less marked has also been effected in the means of communication throughout the parish ; for where not many years ago, there existed only imperfect tracts, impassable in winter, from their forming the channel to some mountain torrent, and almost aOSS AND CROMARTY. Z 346 ROSS AND CROMARTY. equally so in summer from the stones left by the winter stream, there are now to be found excellent roads, affording an easy pas- sage to any species of conveyance. The general aspect of the parish has also been greatly im- proved, by the cultivation of large tracts of land, and by the plan- tation of an immense quantity of wood, principally of the larch and Scotch 6r species, which are already covering the sides of the hills, formerly bleak and rugged, with thick masses of evergreen. Plantations. — On the estate of Novar, since the property came into the hands of the present proprietor, four million and a half of trees have been planted. They are chiefly of the larch and Scotch fir species, but comprehend also a number of kinds of forest and ornamental wood. V. — Parochial Economy. There is no entire village in this parish. The village of Alness is divided nearly equally between this and the neighbouring pa- rish of Rosskeen, by the river of the same name, which forms the eastern boundary of Alness. In that part of this yillage which belongs to Rosskeen, a market is held monthly, principally for the purpose of disposing of cattle. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated in the southern ex- tremity of the parish, being only about a mile distant from the shores of the Frith. It thus apparently occupies a situation in- convenient for the people, the parish stretching to a great distance northward. The individuals who chose the present site were, however, justified in so far, in placing it in the district in which it stands, as it is by far the most populous one in the parish* The present place of worship was' built in the year 1780; but having been repaired at three different periods since then, it is still in pret- ty good condition, and is seated for about 800. All the people of the parish belong to the Established Church, and are, with scarcely a single exception, regular in their attendance on public worship. The number of communicants belonging to the parish is about 80. Education. — There are, altogether, four schools within the bounds of this parish, which, for the educational wants of a popu« lation of little more than 1400, may be considered a very ample provision. The principal school is the parochial one, which is built quite close to the church, and the teacher of which is quali- fied to instruct the scholars in the higher branches of education commonly taught throughout the country. The number of scholars ALNESS. 347 Attending varies considerably at different periods of the year ; in summer, the average number is 40 ; in winter, it is upwards of 60. The schoolmaster's salary is the minimum, but, including school- fees, aad the provision made for the session-clerkship, the yearly income may amount to L. 50. Of the other three schools alluded to, two are endowed, one of them being supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and the other by the Ge- neral Assembly's Education Committee. In both these the num- bers vary with the different seasons of the year. The average number for the whole year may, however, be stated for the for- mer at d5, in the latter, it amounts to 50. The fourth school is a female one ; it is taught in the village, and is pretty well attended, but has no regular endowment State of the Poor.— -The poor of this parish are better provided for than those of most of the neighbouring parishes. So much is this the case, that many instances have occurred of individuals who are obliged to live by the charity of others, — coming to reside in this parish the necessary time in order to have their names added to the list of recipients. The number at present on the poor's roll is about 70. The fund for their partial support and relief arises principally from the weekly collections, which now amount yearly to the average sum of L. 50, and partly from the interest of small sums of money left by various individuals, which, were they all paid up, would amount to about L. 400. The circumstances of the poor have, moreover, been greatly ameliorated of late years, in consequence of the residence in the parish of Major-General Munro of Teaninich. The exertions of this gentleman in behalf of the poor and afBicted are indefati- gable. Not confining himself to mere pecuniary contributions, the amount of which, to men of wealth, is in general a thing of very little consequence, he administers to their relief by daily personal visits, by supplying them with medicines, distributing among them meal and other provisions, and by providing them with fiiel during the rigour of the winter season. The tendency of this mode of bestowing charity is to excite in the minds of those benefited a sense of gratitude, which is unquestionably conferring a greater and more lasting benefit on the poorer classes, than the granting of pecuniary aid, to whatever amount, on the mere principle of legal assessment or taxation. FueL — Till of late years, peats and wood were the articles of fuel almost exclusively in use ; but since trading by means of ves- 348 ROSS AND CROMARTY. sels in the frith has become common, considerable quantities of coals, both English and Scotch, have been imported, and con- sumed in the lower parts of the parish. The population of the more highland districts, having peat mosses in their immediate neighbourhood, still continue to employ that species of fuel. February 1840. PARISH OF ROSEMARKIE. PRESBYTERY OF CHANONRY, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. ALEXANDER WOOD, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Situation^ Boundaries^ 8fc. — The parish of Rosemarkie lies along the north side of the Moray Frith, bounded by the parishes of Resolis and Cromarty, on the north and north-east, and on the west, by the parish of Avoch. Its length from north-east to south- west is about 6 miles, and its breadth, from the coast inland, is on an average between 2 and 3 miles ; comprehending an extent of 15 square miles or thereby. Name, — The original name of the parish was Rosmarkyn, as appears by the seal of the ancient burgh, and many old chartula- ries, and is supposed to be of Gaelic etymology-— composed of Bos, signifying a promontory or headland, and maraichin^ seamen. Topographical Appearances. — The situation of the parish is very pleasant, as rising gradually from the shore to a considerable ele- vation, and towards the eastern extremity, the coast presents a particularly boid and high outline, commanding a rich and exten- sive view over sea and land in all directions. The more inland and elevated grounds, which are for the most part arable, extend in some places to that continued range of hilly ground, which bi- sects the Black Isle district of Ross-shire, stretching nearly from Cromarty to Beauly, called the Mulbuie — AfaoZ-BuidAe— or yel- low promontory, and otherwise, Ardmeanach^ or middle ridge. Bays^ Springs^ Cascades. — There are no lakes nor rivers in the parish. A very beautiful bay is formed by the extensive curvature of the shore, sweeping from Fortrose Point towards the north and ROSEMARKIE. 349 east ; near the middle of which curve Rosemarkie is situated. The ' greater part of the shore is lined with a smooth surface of fine sand, affording delightful ground for sea-bathing ; while the bay itself is an admirable place of anchorage and shelter for trading vessels, during high westerly winds. Indeed the shores on this part of the coast are peculiarly favourable for sea-bathing, and are frequently resorted to by strangers for this purpose. The parish is well supplied with water by means of perennial springs, and some small streams or burns. On the burn discharg- ing itself into the bay of Rosemarkie, about a mile above the town, there is a pretty little fall or cascade. During rainy weather it is considerably increased, and from its position and proximity to the public road, and situation towards the head of a deep ravine, it can- not fail to attract the notice of the traveller, as a pleasing and striking object. Another waterfall, of a similar description, is to be met with on proceeding along the shore to the east ; and at the extreme boundary of the parish, in the direction of Cromarty, runs the bum of Ethie, which, with its cascades and high precipitous banks, as it approaches the sea, is truly wild and picturesque. Soil and Climate. — The nature of the soil is various. In the upper parts of the parish, the lands lie generally on a deep clay bottom, producing abundant crops of excellent quality : of the lower grounds along the coast, where there is an extensive and beautiful flat, well cultivated, the soil is a fine black mould upon light gravel, which, in moderately rainy seasons, never fails to yield a luxuriant crop of all kinds. The surface being in general dry, and having the benefit of fine sea-breezes, the air is particularly pure and salubrious, so that few contagious distempers make their appearance, and when they do, their progress is quickly checked. The climate being thus favour- able, the inhabitants in general are a robust and healthy race ; and many of them attain to extreme old age. The most prevailing winds are south-west and north-east ; and these at times are suffi- ciently high and boisterous. Zoology. — The zoology of the parish is not distinguished by any of the rare species of animals. Under this head, however, the writer may take occasion to notice, that along its bold and rocky coast, crabs, and sometimes lobsters, are dragged from their fast- nesses, by the country people, in the proper season ; and seals are often seen and killed along the shores, while they are watching their prey. The frith abounds with fish of various kinds, such as 350 ROSS AND CROMARTY* turbot, skate, flounders, cod, haddock, mackerel, whiting, cuddies, and herrings in their season. For the taking of salmon, there are also, here, several stake and bag-nets, in which they are caught sometimes in considerable quantities, and in the highest perfection. These nets are erected on both sides of Fortrose Point, which is immediately opposite to the garrison of Fort- George; between which and the said Point is the Ferry of Ardersier, with a good landing pier on this side for the passage-boat. This Point is also the termination of the links of Fortrose, above a mile in length, and as smooth as a carpet. Geology. — There have been no minerals or ores of any kind discovered here. The prevailing rock along the north side of the pa- rish is the old sandstone formation of geologists, which extends also to the whole ridge of the Mulbuie, where several quarries have been opened and wrought for many years past ; the material being found of excellent quality for buildings of every description* The bold and rocky cliffs, overhanging the sea for more than half the length of the parish, are composed of gneiss, traversed by veins of white quartz. In some parts, these cliffs rise almost perpendicularly to a very considerable height, and they abound in caverns, which add much to the wildness of the scenery ; while some of them have frequently been occupied as temporary dwellings by people of the gipsy race. II. — Civil History. The town of Rosemarkie, though not large, is of considerable an* tiquity. It was erected into a royal burgh by Alexander, King of Scotland, — probably Alexander II. About a mile to the west of it stands the town of Chanonry, so called from its being the Chanonry of Ross, where the bishop formerly had his residence, and which is now the Presbytery seat. It is beautifully situated on an elevated plain, commanding an extensive prospect, particularly of the Moray Frith. It was united to the burgh of Rosemarkie by a charter granted by King James II., anno 1444, under the common name of For- tross, now soAened into Fortrose ; which charter was ratified by King James VL, anno 1592; and confirmed in a still more ample form by the same monarch in the year 1612. These charters bear that it was to be <^ entitled to all the privileges, liberties, and im- munities granted to the town of Inverness." Fortrose is then spoken of as a town flourishing in the arts and sciences, being at that time the seat of divinity, law, and physic in this corner of the kingdom. The Bishop of Ross was originally styled Episcopus UOSF.MAUKIE. 351 Rosmarkiensis, and the Cathedral church stood in the town of Chanonry, in a spacious square, where, together with the bishop, resided a number of his clergy ; so that there is scarce a house in the burgh but was formerly a manse belonging to some of the Chapter, as appears by the ancient charters and infeftments. The Episcopal see was founded by David L, King of Scot- land ; but there is no certain account at what period the Cathe- dral was built, though it is said to have been a fine one, with a lofty steeple. Bishop I^eslie also takes notice of the palace, which stood at a little distance from the houses of the canons ; and he represents it, in his time, as a splendid and magnificent building. This statement was so far confirmed a few years ago, while trenching the field called the " Precincts,'* where it was said to have stood, by the foundation walls being discovered considerably under the surface, which walls, including the court or area, were found to cover about an acre of ground. Only a small part of the ancient cathedral now remains. This seems to have been a wing that ran from east to west, with an arched roof, about 100 feet in length, and dO in breadth. It had a communication by entries or porches with the main body of the cathedral. It was preserved and repaired by some of the bishops since the Restoration, as a place for public worship ; but it has long since fallen into a state of decay, and is only now used for the purpose of interment. It is highly probable that this cathedral, at the Reformation, had suffered the fate of many others; though it be a current tra- dition in the place, that the greater part of it, together with the Bishop's Palace, just mentioned, was pulled down in the time of Oliver Cromwell. By his order the stones were carried by sea to Inverness, about the distance of eight miles, for erecting a fort there, called " Cromwell's Fort," whereof the ditch and traces of the ramparts are still discernible. No chartulary belonging to the bishopric has been found in Scotland. It is probable that Leslie, the last Popish Bishop of Ross, and the zealous advocate for the unfortunate Queen Mary, when he was forced to go abroad, carried all the records of the diocese with him, either to France or to Brussels, where he died, and where these parchments may still be mouldering in dust and solitude. No inscriptions are to be found about what remains of the ca- thedral, worthy of notice, excepting on a large old bell, now hung in a small modern spire. It bears the name of Mr Thomas Tul- 352 UOSS AND CBOMARTV. loch, as Bishop of Ross, and states that it had been << dedicated to the most holy Mary, and the blessed Boniface, anno Domyny, 1460." In the direction of the main body of the cathedral, ai the east, and detached from its remains, stands a building that was probably the vestry. It contains a vault below, with a strong arch- ed roof, now converted into a prison ; and the upper part of it is used as the town-house and council- chamber of the burgh. St Boniface appears to have been, by every ancient monument, the favourite saint and patron of the place, and his history, accord- ing to tradition, is simply this. In the year 693, or, according to others, about the year 697, Boniface, an Italian, a grave and ve- nerable person, came to Scotland to make up our acquaintance with the Church of Rome. He built to the memory of St Peter a church where he landed, at the mouth of a little water, betwixt the shires of Angus and Mearns ; erected another church at Felin, a third at Restenuoth, and a fourth at Rosemarkie ; where, being taken with the pleasantness of the place, he thought fit to reside, and was buried there. Bishop Leslie speaks of Rosemarkie as decorated with the relics of the saint, and the very ancient se- pulchres and monuments of him and his parents : whence it would seem that he had brought his parents from Italy with him in this • pious expedition. From this traditional account of St Boniiace, it would appear that the parish church in the ancient town of Rosemarkie had its foundation laid by him. In repairing it anno 1735, in a vault un- der a very ancient steeple, there were found some stone coffins of rude workmanship, one of which might probably contain the bones of this venerable apostle. To perpetuate his memory we have here an annual market, called St Boniiace Fair ; and a spring of excellent water is also distinguished by his name. Nay, what is still more, the seal of the cathedral, or Diocesan Seal, is yet pre- served, and used as the public seal of the burgh, with this inscrip- tion in Saxon characters : <^ + Scapituli sco^ Petri et Bonefacii de Rosomarkin." St Peter stands on it with his keys, and Boniface with his crook, in excellent order. The seal of the ancient burgh of Rosemarkie, which is also in good preservation, has inscribed on it the figure apparently of St Peter, mitred in a shield, with the circumscription i. + • sigil^ LVM lES MVNE BVRGI D£ ROSMARKYN. In the churchyard here, too, lies the body of Andrew Murray, a very brave man, Regent of the kingdom in the reign of David II., KOSEMAUKIE. 353 who, after defeating the English in many battles, and quieting the state of the nation, (according to Buchanan,) having gone to the north to take a view of his possessions there, died in 13889 and was buried at Rosemarkie. Eminent Men. — Sir George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh, that eminent statesman and able lawgiver, passed a part of his time at Fortrose. Dr George Mackenzie, too, the laborious compiler of the *' Lives of the most Eminent Writers of the Scottish Nation,'' resided here, in an old castle belonging to the Earl of Seaforth, and lies interred in the tomb of that family in the Cathedral. And Dr James Mackenzie, who writes " the Art of preserving Health," is said to have been for some time employed in teaching the gram- mar school of the burgh. In addition to these, it may be men- tioned, that Sir James Mackintosh, so well known to the literary world, here received the elements of his education; and even at that early period, his studious habits, and great proGciency, gave strong indications of his possessing high intellectual endow- ments. Chief Land'Oumers. — The principal proprietors are, Roderick Mackenzie, Esq. of Flowerburn ; James Fowler, Esq. of Raddery ; Evan Baillie, Esq. of Dochfour and Ethies ; Sir James W. Mackenzie of Scatwell, Bart.; the Rev. R. M. Millar of Kincurdie ; and Malcolm Maclean, Esq. of Hawkhill. There are several other smaller heritors, who are possessed of burgage lands and tenements. Only one of the principal heritors resides in the parish, namely, James Fowler, Esq. of Raddery. The total valued rent of the parish is L. 3725, 3s. 8d. Scots money. Parochial Registers, — From the loss of some of the old registers, by accident or carelessness, and the negligence of the people in for- mer times, in registering the births of their children, these records do not extend far back, and are somewhat incomplete, previous to the induction of the present incumbent, in the year 1815. Since then, the session records of births, marriages, deaths, and poor's funds, have been regularly kept. Antiquities. — An ancient shaft of stone, forming the Cross of Rosemarkie, and bearing as capital a ducal crown, stands at the west end of the street; another of a similar description was erected of old in the market-place of Chanonry or Fortrose, and a third of an inferior description on the Ness, where, according to tradition, the last witch in Scotland was burnt Immediately above the town of Rosemarkie, there is a mound of nearly a circular form, x^4 ROSS AND CROMARTY. i«Hi '««el oo the top, which seems to be artificial, and has alwajs >;^^ v:alled the Court-hill. In ancient times, it was probably the place where courts were held for the administration of justice* This rather interesting spot, in all likelihood connected with such jadLcial proceedings, has of late been injured in its appearance, bv the erection upon it of some small cottages. It was already observed that the landward part of the parish stretches up towards the summit of the Mulbuie, along the ridge of which tradition supplies ^^ tales of battles fought," to which cairns and tumuli, and the marks of ancient encampments bear ample testimony ; and one cairn in particular is distinguished by the designation of the Cats- Cairn — a natural English corruption from Caim-a'chath, signifying the cairn of the battle. Under some of these have been found stone-coffins, and weapons of copper and other metals, confirming the tradition that in this place a gigantic Danish Chief was killed and buried. Indeed, from its vicinity to the coast, and particularly the inviting landing- place at Cromarty, it is easy to conceive this district to have been a scene of incessant strife between these northern rovers, and the tenacious Gaelic tribes of the country. Coins. — In 1787, several silver coins were found in a small cairn of stones near Rosemarkie. They were mostly shillings of Queen Elizabeth, with a mixture of other coins, and particularly some of the times of James I. and Charles I. It is probable they were de- posited there in the time of the civil war, and may have been brought into the country by the gallant Marquis of Montrose, or some of his followers. About 200 more silver coins were found in a copper jug of an antique form, in digging up the foundation of an old house at Chanonry. They were coined in the reign of Robert King of Scots. Small Copper coins are frequently found in labouring the grounds about the place, and more especially in the gardens. III. — Population. The population in 1755, was - - 1140 1793, - - . 1262 1811, . . 1312 1821, - - . 1571 1831, males, 863, females, 936, 1799 Taken in 1838, - . 1813 In 1793, Fortrose was 445, Rosemarkie, 296, eountry part, 521 1821, do. 618, do. 314, do. 639 Average of births for the seven years preceding 1831, inclusive, it 47 marriages, - - - 14 deaths, - - . - 26 Number of fiimilies, ... 358 ROSEMARKIB. 355 Inhabited hoiuesy - - • . 331 Uninhabited houses - - . 9 Building, - - ... 4 Families chiefly employed in agriculture, . 106 trade, manufactures, &c. - 133 All other families, - - . I17 Number of illegitimate births in (he course of the last three years, 5. Character of the People. — The people in this parish are, gene- rally speaking, sober, cleanly, and industrious ; and appear in every respect contented with their condition, and the circumstances in which Divine Providence has been pleased to place them. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The parish being divided among a great many small as well as several principal heritors, the number of acres cultivated or occasionally in tillage cannot be satis&ctorily obtained without actual admeasurement. Neither can the number of acres of waste and pasture land with any accu- racy be ascertained. It is supposed that the greater part of the waste ground might, by the proper application of capital, be kept ID occasional tillage, or in permanent pasture. There are under planted wood about 837 acres imperial measure. The application of lime in husbandry, the use of bone manure in the raising of turnips, which are generally ate off the ground by sheep, and which has been found very much to improve the soil, with due attention to a proper rotation of crops, and rest- ing the fields in grass, are becoming daily more prevalent here. The farmers residing near the shore avail themselves of the advan- tage of using sea-ware as often as they can procure it ; which they either spread at once upon the lands, or mix in a compost, the lat- ter process being found to be the best mode of applying it. Some of the tenants keep still a few sheep of the small country kind, which are pastured on heath, and among whins and broom. Leases of nineteen years endurance are general. Rent of Land. — The rents of land in the country part of the pa- rish vary from L. 1, 10s. to L.2 per acre; the lands about the united burgh draw per acre from L.d to L.4 and upwards. The state of farm-buildings would admit of great improvement ; and the subdividing and enclosing with proper fences, the different arable fields, hitherto greatly overlooked, would be highly de- sirable as well as beneficial. Farming Society. — A society denominated " the Black Isle Farming Society," consisting of the proprietors and the more re- 356 ROSS AND CROMARTY. spectable fanners in the district, was formed about two years ago at Fortrose, where they regularly hold two meetings in the year, the one for a competition of the best qualities of grain, and the other for an exhibition of live-stock. The members of the society con- tribute annually for the formation of a fund, out of which premiums are awarded at the said meetings, by competent judges, for the best samples of grain, and for superiority in the breed of cattle. The object farther is, to excite a spirit of emulation among the practi- cal farmers, who have thus an opportunity of communicating to each other their observations and experiments, which may be the means of introducing valuable improvements. Though large tracts of the parish were of old covered with wood, it has long since become exhausted. But, in later times, con- siderable plantations of Scotch firs have been raised, which are very thriving ; and as the parish is but poorly supplied with moss, these might be a useful fund for fuel. Coals, however, are now so readily obtained, and at such a moderate rate, that they are found to be the cheapest, as well as the most agreeable fire, so as to su- persede, in a great degree, the use of any other article of firing. The fir plantations, when cut down, are generally exported to England as coal props. In getting these to the shipping-place there is every facility, with a commodious harbour at Fortrose for trading vessels of moderate size, and where, during any state of the weather, they are completely protected. V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — At Fortrose, which is also the post-town, there are three fairs annually held, in the months of April, June, and No- vember. Means of Communicatiofu — The public roads to the west, lead- ing to Inverness and Dingwall, being Parliamentary, are kept in excellent repair, — those towards Cromarty and Invergorden are old district roads, badly planned at first, and generally in such a state as to render travelling in these directions extremely difficult and uncomfortable. No mail or stage-coach passes through the pa- rish. The steam- vessels plying in the Frith, and passing weekly, take in and deliver at Chanonry Point goods of every description. These vessels are well fitted up for passengers, and they trade with Aberdeen, Leith, and London. By them the salmon taken here, and brought and collected from various stations around, are, when packed in ice, shipped for the London market, — as also in the sea- son, considerable quantities of pork and live pigs. ROSEMARKIK. 357 Eecksiastical State. — We have already stated the traditional ac- count of the origin of the parish church in the ancient town of Rosemarkie, as having been founded by St Boniface. On the same site where the church had stood for centuries, was erected eighteen years ago a handsome modem edi6ce. It is large and commodious, having been built for at least 800 sitters, affording ample church accommodation for the parishioners; in which respect not many parishes are so well provided. With few exceptions the bulk of the more remote parishioners in the country part, may be said to be within three miles of the church. The present manse was built in 1833, in the same situation as the former, near to the line of road leading from Rosemarkie to Fortrose, and at a convenient distance from the church. It com- mands a fine extensive prospect of the Moray Frith, and the ad- jacent country. The office-houses were also rebuilt some years previous; and both these and the manse are finished in a substan- tial manner, and afford every necessary comfort and convenience. The glebe consists of about four Scots acres. The stipend is 16 chalders, half meal and half barley, payable according to the highest fiars in the county; with L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion ele- ments. The last augmentation was granted in 1816. Besides the parish church, the only other place of public wor- ship is an Episcopal chapel, some time since erected in Fortrose, standing a mile distant from Rosemarkie. It is a modern, conve- nient, and handsome structure of Gothic architecture, and can ac- commodate, as presently fitted up, about 300 sitters. The con- gregation now assembling there is very limited, there being but few families or individuals of the Episcopal persuasion in the place or neighbourhood. The number of families connected with the Established Church is 837; of Dissenting or Seceding families, 21, — in several of which, however, only the heads of the families are Dissenters, while the remaining members attend the Established Church. It may be proper here to notice, that it is in contemplation to erect, so soon as sufficient funds can be procured by public sub- scription, a church, quoad sacra y in Fortrose. With the concur- rence of the presbytery of the bounds, a constitution for the same has been prepared, and submitted to the Church Courts, and has received the sanction of the General Assembly. The salary or stipend for the support of the minister is intend- ed to be paid out of the annual produce of a fund mortified by a 358 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Mr Thomas Forbes, once a bailie in Fortrose ; and under the ad- ministration of the ministers of the parishes of Rosemarkie and Avoch ; which fund has now amounted to a sum considered suffi- cient for accomplishing the ulterior object contemplated by the donor. EdttcatioTL — There are various schools in the parish, but none of them strictly parochial. 1'his arises from the parish school sa- lary having been at one time conjoined with the grammar or burgh school at Fortrose, and afterwards with the academy there ; but since withdrawn from both; and application has been recently made to the presbytery to adopt the proper measures for the establish- ment of said schooL In the meantime, there are at Rosemarkie two schools without salary, where the usual elementary branches are taught, and which are well attended ; one of these is an infiwt school, at which from 30 to 40 children are instructed. At Fortrose there exists what is denominated the burgh or grammar school, and a female school for young ladies, supported chiefly by subscription. The academy of Fortrose was the first seminary of the kind esta- blished in the north, and is supported out of a fund formed by do- nations and subscriptions. In it are taught all the branches usual- ly embraced by such institutions, under the superintendence and in- structions of the rector and his assistant Donors of L. 50 and their male representatives become perpetual directors. Those of L.21 are directors for life. The many young men this establish- ment has sent into the world, who are now filling various respec- table situations in life, bear sufficient testimony to its character and usefulness for nearly half a century past. There are three Sabbath evening schools in the parish, all of them well attended ; and which are found to be productive of much benefit to the rising generation. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid is about 86. In this number, however^ are included a good many, who, though able to work for themselves, receive small annual supplies, especially when they are known to have young families. Few or none of them travel about to seek charity in other parishes. There is a strong disposition on the part of the poor to refrain from asking parochial relief; but this feeling appears to die away soon after they get on the roll. The iiind for their support arises from the weekly church collections, which may amount throughout the year to about L. 17 ; and the interest of a ROSEMARKIE. 359 small capital of above L. 200, on which capital the kirk-session have always felt a reluctance to encroach, though the pressing cir- cumstances of the poor seemed frequently to call for it Besides the above, there are two mortifications for the poor of Chanonry ; tbe one by Barbara Mackenzie, Countess of Seaforth, anno 1680, of 17 bolls 2 firlots land rent, under the administration of the mi- nisters of Rosemarkie and Avoch ; and the other of 27 bolls, from some lands disponed by Bishop Paterson, and other lands pur- chased with money mortified by Sir Alexander M^Kenzie of Coul ; whereof the magistrates are administrators. John Fowler, Esq. a native of this place, who died in Jamaica, also bequeathed the sum of Lf. 100 to the poor of Fortrose. Friendly Society^ — There is a society in the united royal burgh, termed ** the Fortrose and Rosemarkie Friendly Society," esta- blished in January 1831, which promises fair to be of benefit to the poorer classes of labourers and mechanics therewith connected. Inns. — At Fortrose there is a good inn, and both there and. in Rosemarkie several smaller inns, where inferior accommodation may be had. But it would be highly desirable that the number of low tippling-houses should be more limited. Miscellaneous Observations. The appearance of the people, as respects their manners, dress, and habits of industry, shews, that in these, of late years, there has been a great advance. The improvements in agriculture since the time of the former Statistical Account, have been very considerable, and are daily on the increase. The taste for reading in various depart- ments has pervaded all classes of society ; so much so, indeed, that among tradesmen and the labouring classes, many valuable works are now to be met with, particularly of a religious character, where in former times such publications were seldom looked for, and but rarely found. There can be no doubt that the bulk of the people in the towns would be inclined to industrious habits. But for want of regular employment, in the absence of manufactories of any sort, they are not so well provided for, as where advantages of this description are enjoyed. Drawn up May 1839, Revised February 1840. PARISH OF FEARN. PRESBYTERY OF TAIN, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. HUGH ROSS, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of the parish is the Gaelic word Feamn, signifying the alder tree, — there being many of these trees grow- ing at Mid-feam, in the parish of Eddertown, in this neighbour- hood, where the foundation of the abbacy was in the twelfth cen- tury first laid. But the churchmen in those days finding the lands there confined, and not so fertile as they would have wished, got a new bull from the Pope, for building the abbacy where it now stands, in a fertile and extensive plain of good land. It was found- ed here by Farquhard, or Farquhar, first Earl of Ross, in the reign of Alexander II. Extent^ <$*c. — The pnrish is of no great extent, being only 2 English miles in length, and nearly of the same breadth. It is bounded on the south, by the parish of Nigg; on the west, by Loggie (Easter); on the north, by Tain; and on the east and south-east, by Tarbat and the Murray Frith. The soil is a deep loam, in the centre of the parish, about the abbacy church. The loans of Fearn to the south, and the lands of Allan to the west, are a deep clay ; the north and east part is gravellish ; the south-east and south is light and sandy. The face of the parish is nearly flat, with the exception of a few eminences, that are generally laboured. About three-fourths are arable, the rest partly green, and partly covered with heath.^ The loch of Eye is above two miles long, and about half a mile broad. The Murray Frith lies to the south-east of this parish* The coast for about a mile is flat and sandy, on which the fishing town of Balintore lies, and Hiltown, another fishing town about half a mile to the east of it ; there, it is rocky and high for about a mile more. II. — Civil History. Parochial iZeyts/er^.— There is but one parochial register, that FEAUN. 3aptisms and marriages. It begins in 1749, The entries have been very irregularly made down till the year 1800. Land'Qicners. — The chief land -owners are, Robert Bruce ^neas Macleod of Cadboll, valuation, L. 2489 ; Hugh Ross of Cromarty, L.269 ; Representatives of the late William Baillie Rose of Rhine, L. 400; David Monro of Allan, L. 1010; William Murray of Pittkeire and Meikle Rhine, L.562 ; Sir Charles Ross of Balnagown, L. 382 ; George M. R, Ross of Polfoil, L. 122 ; ^neas Barclay of Mounteagle, L. 230. Antiquities, — " There are several Druidical temples in this pa- rish. The abbacy is one of the most ancient buildings here. It is said to have been first made up of mud. It was not only a place of worship before the Reformation, but ever since, until October 1742, when, on a sudden, in time of public worship, the roof fell in. There were thirty-six persons killed instantly, by what fell in of the roof and slate, on that melancholy occasion ; eight more died soon after. — The Castle of Lochlin, in the north-east cor- ner of the parish, is another remarkable building. It is said to be of 500 years standing. It stands upon an eminence, about one mile north-east of the loch of Eye, and about six miles east from Tain, and is indeed one of the most conspicuous objects in this country. It was certainly built as a place of security against sud- den incursions in the days of violence. Its shape resembles two figures, nearly square, joined together by the corners, in which junction there is a staircase to the top. The lesser one, which looks towards the west, being about 20, and the greater, which looks towards the east, about 3d feet square. The castle is 60 fiset high. It is fortified with three large turrets, of which one stands upon the lesser square, and two upon the greater. These turrets are each of them capable of holding three or more men with ease, and in each of them are five small round holes, of about four inches diameter, with three larger above them, of a quadran- gular form. The latter, it is imagined, were intended for the sen- tries or watchmen to see through, and the others for shooting of arrows. The outer door of the kitchen was made of strong bars of iron, as thick as an ordinary man's leg, and the windows were closed with small grates or twisted stanchions of iron, so that it may be readily supposed that it was almost impregnable at the period in which it was erected. — There is another very ancient castle, that of Cadboll, equally old, if not older than either the abbacy or the Castle of Lochlin. There are little remains of it now, but E08S AND CROMARTY. A a 3(52 UOSS AND CROMAUTY. two or three vaults. There is a very singular and remarkable tra- dition concerning this castle, that, though it was inhabited for ages, yet never any person died in it; and many of those who lived in it, wished to be brought out of it, as they longed for death, espe- cially Lady May, who resided there about one hundred years ago ; being long sick, and longing for death, she desired to be brought out of her castle, which at last was accordingly done, and no soon- er did she come out of it, than she expired !" — Old Statistical Ac- count. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1801, ^ 1528 1811, - 1508 1821, . 1654 1831, . 1695 Number of families in the parish in 1831, .... 993 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 113 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 55 Number residing at this date in the villages of Hilton, Balintore, and Hill of Fearn, ------. 955 at this date residing in the country, .... 92O of illegitimate births during the last three years, - . - 3 IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Number of standard acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, . 3712 never cultivated, but constantly waste, or in pasture, 2423 under wood, - • . . . ]58 No part of the parish could be cultivated with a profitable ap- plication of capital. Rent. — The average rent, of land per acre is L. 1, 12s. ; the real rental of the parish, L. 5464. Improvements, — Very great improvements have taken place in the agriculture of the parish within the last thirty years, by trench- ing, draining, levelling, &c &c. Green crops are extensively raised, and some of the best wheat in Scotland is produced on the farms of Allan, Fearn, and Cadboll. Fishings, — Fishings of grey fish and herring are carried on to a considerable extent by the villagers on the sea shore. But as there are no resident curers, the exact extent cannot be ascer- tained. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The number of families in the parish be- longing to the Established Church, is 394 ; of Dissenting or Se- ceding families, 27. Stipend, eight chalders barley, and three chal- ders oatmeal, Linlithgow measure ; also an allowance for commu- nion elements. The glebe is five acres in extent — value, L, 12, 3 URQUHART AND LOGGIE-WESTKR. 363 lOs. The manse was rebuilt in 1825, and is at present in good condition. Education. — Tliere are two schools in the parish, but two more are required, one at Hilton, and one near Wester Geanies. The parochial teacher's salary is L. 36, 7s. Id., including L.2 for a garden ; his school fees, L. 6 ; and his fees as session-clerk, L. 3, 10s. Poor. — Number receiving parochial aid, about 70. Average annual amount of contributions for their relief, L. 19, 6s. Of this amount, L. 13 are from church collections, and L. 6, 6s. from legacies, or the interest of mortifications. February 1840. UNITED PARISHES OF URQUHART AND LOGGIE-WESTER.* PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. JOHN MACDONALD, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. ^a»we.— This parish, now known by the name of Urquhart, is in all church records designated the united parishes of Urquhart and Loggie Wester ; the former, comprehending the eastern, and the latter, the western district of the parish as now constituted. As the designation intimates, it was originally two distinct pa- rishes; but at what period the union took place has not been as- certained. It seems, however, probable, from a reference made to the parishes in an old manuscript in the Advocates' Library, that they had been incorporated as early as the year 1490, it being therein stated that one Mr Munro was, at that time, vicar of Ur- quhart and Loggie- Wester. In regard to the designation Urquhart^ — it derives its origin, cic- cording to a tradition still current in the place, from the first church, on the erection of the parish, having been built by a lady of eminent piety, by name Sophia Urquhart, in Gaelic, Sitheoff * Drawn up by D. Mackenzie, A. M., and revised by the Rev. J. Macdonaldy Mi- nister of the parish. 364 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Uraehdun. This tradition is noticed by the writer of the former Statistical Account, who adds, that the lady was of the family of Cromarty, whose landed property in this country was anciently of vast extent, and that to the lady referred to, the lands of Ur- quhart had been allotted as her dowry. He likewise observes, that although these lands have long since passed into a different line of proprietors, yet still many of the inhabitants of this, and some of the heritors of the adjacent parishes, are of the name of Ur- quhart These circumstances, taken together, serve, it is conceiv- ed, to render this account of the origin of the name extremely probable. Perhaps it may not be out of place to observe here, that the same tradition also bears that the parish of Urquhart, in Inverness-shire, derives its name, in like manner, from the person who first endow- ed it, called Crostan- Urquhart. The designation is, in Gaelic, " Uraehdun mu (md ) ChrostaUy^ Anglice Urquhart, the be- nefit of, or endowed by, Crostan ; the adjunct, mc^ Chrostan^ being intended to distinguish it from other parishes of the name of Ur- quhart, of which there are, at least, two more in the north of Scot- land. Lofffficy the name of the other parish, is a Graelic word {Laff* ffie, from laff)^ signifying a hollow, and is descriptive of the situa- tion of the old t^hurch of that parish, the ruins of which are still to be seen in a pleasant valley on the south bank of the river Conan ; the grounds contiguous to it receding and rising by a gentle acclivity, while the lands on the opposite side of the water present a bolder ascent, extending to the foot of the precipitous Brahan rock. It is called Loggie Wester, to distinguish it from another parish of the name of Loggie, within the bounds of the synod. Extent and Boundaries. — The length of the parish is about 10 miles, its breadth, 3^. The form is a pretty exact rectangle ; and it lies in a direction nearly south-west and north-east. On the east, it is bounded by the parish of Resolis ; on the south and south-west, by the parishes of Knockbain and Killearnan ; on the west, by the parish of Urray ; on the north, the boundary is form- ed by the Cromarty Frith and River Conan, which separate it from the parishes of Kilteam, Dingwall, Fodderty, and part of Urray. Topographical Appearances. — From the shore and the bank of the Conan, the ground rises with a gradual and pretty uniform 4 URQUHART AND LOGGIE-WE8TEU. 365 slope, to the ridge of hill called the Maolbuie. The surface is nearly regular, there being nothing to diversify it, beyond here and there a knoll or a hollow. There is no elevation that deserves the name of hill, or depression that can be called a valley. In short, to an observer situated on the north of the Frith, this pa- rish presents the appearance of an inclined plane, having the east end somewhat more elevated than the west. The lower grounds are almost entirely brought into cultivation ; those parts which the plough has not yet reached are rapidly diminishing in extent, and are generally covered with furze or whin, and broom. But towards the Maolbuie, the uncultivated ground produces nothing better than stunted heath ; and in that part of the parish which adjoins Killearnan, there is a moss of some extent, supplying the inhabi- tants with a spongy kind of peat, which is used for fuel. Of natural scenery, a surface so uniform can scarcely be ex- pected to present .much. With the exception of one or two burns or ravines of rather a romantic character, there is nothing in the parish that merits any notice. One of these, the Findon-burn, has a fine cascade of about 20 feet, which, pouring its waters into a yawning gorge, formed by a sudden widening of the fissure on each side, the banks above rising boldly, and being covered with oak, birch, and hazel, there is nothing wanting to complete the interest of the scene, but a sufficient body of water. Thi^ gloomy chasm was, in the olden times, fully believed by the common people, to be the abode of some ideal being, called in Gaelic a Bhaobhy or a Bhean Shith. To what class of animals this same Baohh belongs, naturalists have not, it is supposed, yet been able to decide. That she (for a female she was understood to be) exercised no slight influence over the fears of the superstitious Highlanders, till a period not very remote, is well known. Her reign, however, in this part of the country terminated long ago, the last of the race who figured in the history of this parish having not been heard of for 100 years. Of this lady a marvellous story used to be related by the old people, who have now gone to the silence of the grave. They fully believed that she held intercourse with a man whose name and residence were specified, and that he was repeatedly ab- sent months from his own family, being on those occasions in the company of his Dulcinea, the Baobh. But happily such silly ideas have vanished before the enlightening influence of Christian edu- cation. But although this parish cannot boast of much scenery within 366 ROSS AND CUOMARTV. itself, yet it commands an excellent view of one of the most beau* tiful and magnificent landscapes in the north. Take your stand on almost any spot in the parish, look towards the north, and a delightful scene every where meets the eye ! In the foreground, the Frith presents itself, with a number of ships lying on the beach at various points, or perhaps here and there a sloop sailing down with spread canvas, or beating up against the wind. At its ter- mination, it receives the waters of the Conan. Directly opposite the middle of the parish, lies the town of Dingwall, surrounded by rows of trees, and finely situated on a rich carse, formed by the abrupt contracting of the Frith to about half its breadth. As- cending rapidly from the edge of the water, a beautiful slope, all the way from Brahan, extends to the east as far as the eye can reach, in the highest state of cultivation, adorned with hedges, rows of trees, and clumps of wood — interspersed with neat farm- houses, and the splendid mansions of gentlemen. Among these latter may be enumerated, Brahan Castle, TuUoch Castle, Mountgerald House, the princely castle of Fowlis, and Novar House. From the eastern parts of the parish, the celebrated vale of Strathpefier, lying north-west, beyond Dingwall, is seen to great advantage. On a fine summer evening, when the sun shoots his slanting rays through the masses of mist which roll along the bosom of Ben Wyvis, or through the fleecy clouds that float over Strathpefier and Dingwall, down on the still waters of the Frith, especially when there happens to be a drizzling rain, the scene, as viewed from this side, is highly enchanting. The blaze of the light reflected from the water ; the variety of rich tints produced by the refraction of the rays in their passage through the clouds ; from the softest green to the most brilliant red, conspire to form a picture exquisitely beautiful, and gorgeous beyond description. In the distance, again, rises to the horizon a range of hills piled on one another, extending in the form of a crescent for about twenty- five miles, commencing with the hills of Urray on the west, and terminating in the hills of Ardross on the east In the centre of this chain, sits in majesty Ben Wyvis, often either capped with snow, or enveloped in mist, and erecting its lofty front, as if looking down with contempt on every pretender to elevation around it. '< Venim haec tantum alias inter caput extulit urbesj Quantum lenta solent inter vibuma cupressi." Hydrography, — It has already been observed, that the north of the parish is in part bounded by ihe Cromarty Frith, which ex- URQUHART AND LOGGIE-WESTEll. 367 tends along it for a about six miles and a-half, terminating about a mile to the west of Dingwall. Its breadth at the east end of the parish may be about two miles; towards its extremity, it is less than a mile broad. At Dingwall it suddenly contracts by about a mile. The average depth, in the middle, may be stated at two or three fathoms ; but towards the shore it is very shallow. The beach varies, being in some parts sandy, and in others clayey. Its water is muddy, and is rather brackish than salt, in conse- quence of being mixed with so considerable a body of fresh water as is discharged by the Conan. Salmon and grilse are taken in two yairs, on the property of Culloden, but, from whatever cause, in much smaller numbers than was the case forty or fifby years ago. The river Conan, which, as already noticed, pours its wa- ters into the Frith at its western extremity, rises in a small lake, about thirty miles north-west from its mouth. In its course it is augmented by the confluence of several streams, such as the Black River, the Meag, the Orrin, &c. Its breadth near its mouth is about 50 yards, and its mean depth 2^ feet. It abounds with salmon of a rich flavour, which is chiefly sent to the London market — The lowest parts of the parish are exceedingly well supplied with springs of the finest water. The upper parts, how- ever, are not so well provided in that respect — the water be- ing inferior in quality, and in dry seasons, deficient in quantity. A few of the springs are slightly impregnated with iron, and are considered to be in some degree medicinal. Geology • — The only kind of rock in the parish is the old red sandstone formation of geologists. There are several quarries of good freestone, which supply the parish, and from which hewn work is sent to Dingwall, and to other places in the vicinity. In regard to the soil, there is considerable variety, being in some parts light and sharp ; in other parts a rich clayey loam is to be found; but the prevailing kind is a quick black mould — the " so- lum putre" of Virgil, which is very fertile. Towards the MaoU buie, the subsoil is a raw unpropitious gravel, or rather rough sand, which being covered only with a thin mossy or spongy layer, the land is consequently there considerably less productive. In for- mer days, a mischievous custom prevailed, of cutting up the sur- face to obtain turf, which supplied a wretched substitute for better fuel ; that process necessarily much impoverished the soil. It may be observed, in general, that in this parish the subsoil is dry and kindly, and that, consequently, the crops are not often mate- 368 ROSS AND CROMARTY. rially injured by changes of weather, which not unfrequently oc- casioD much damage in many other districts. Zoology^ — None of the rarer animals are to be fouud among us; and even some of the more common species, which, thirty or forty years ago, were to be met with in the parish, are now seldom or never seen. Reynard himself, who used to make depredations of a serious nature among the poultry, has been forced to decamp, not for want of provision, but for lack of secure quarters. Of breeds of cattle there are various kinds, but it is unnecessary to specify them. Rabbits, introduced some years ago, have multi- plied prodigiously, and cause a great deal of damage throughout, the parish. Pheasants are found in the woods about Conan. In winter, the woodcock is to be seen ; and occasionally the black- cock shows his rich plumage. The snipe also is to be met with ; partridges are numerous ; groups of plovers may be seen ; but the moorfowl has found it necessary to resort to higher ground. The heron is no stranger among us ; and the swan is sometimes seen sailing in state on the Frith. Botany. — There is a considerable variety of plants to be found through the parish, especially in the woods ; but it has not been ob- served that there are any of the rarer sorts— such as deserve parti- cular notice here. The plants used for medicinal purposes are chiefly the foxglove (DigitcdhJ^ both the purple and the white; the latter is, however, very scarce among us ; the whortleberry, (ArbU" tus Uva-UrsiJ ; the ground-ivy, (Hedera terrestrisjy considered an excellent remedy in cases of dysuria; coltsfoot, (Tvsnlago) ; trefoil or buckbean, (Menyanthes trifoliata). It may be proper to observe, that monkshood (Aconitum NapellusJ^ though* it cannot be classed among the indigenous plants, has been found to have an excellent effect in discussing indolent tumours. It'was applied in several cases in the form of a strong tincture, and seemed to act more powerfully than the ointment of the hydriodate of potass. The trees which are indigenous to the parish are, the oak, the ash, birch, quaking-ash, mountain-ash, gean, bird- cherry, holly, &c Plantations, — There are pretty extensive plantations of fir and larch on the properties of Ferrintosh and Conan. On the latter, there is also a thriving plantation of hard-wood ; and the grounds about Conan House, one of the seats of Sir Francis A. Mackenzie of Gairloch, are beautifully ornamented with shrubberies, and rows of trees of various kinds. On each of the properties of Findoa and Ferrintosh there is a wood of natural oak, interspersed with URQUHART AND LOGGIE-WCSTER. 369 birch, mountain-ash, hazel, bird-cherry, &c. which constitute the chief objects of attraction in the aspect of the parish. The oak, however, is not allowed to attain to great size. IL — Civil History. It is believed that there exists no account of the parish either in print or manuscript. Neither are there any traditionary sketches that are deserving of notice, with the exception of one relating to President Forbes, and which forms an interesting episode in the history of the Rebellion. So far as has been observed by the writer, it has not been noticed in any of the published accounts of that event- ful period. It has been preserved among the old people in these bounds, and as of its authenticity there can be no doubt, it may not be improper to introduce it here. Some time previous to the battle of Culloden, a design had been formed by the rebels to surprise President Forbes, Lord Loudon, and other friends of the Government, who were then at Culloden House, guarded by a party of the Ferrintosh and Culloden tenants. To execute this plan, a detachment was sent down with great se- crecy from the Aird along the water of Nairn. The officer in command, with a view to ensure the accomplishment of the object proposed, concealed his party in a wood in the vicinity of Cullo- den House, which he intended to surround in the night, after as- certaining that the loyal party had not previously departed. In this state of things, a woman residing on the mains of Culloden, happened, in looking for some sheep, to go near the wood, when, to her great consternation, a tall Highlander, completely equipped in armour, suddenly presented himself before her, and in a whisper in- quired whether she knew the President or not Instantly suspect- ing mischief, she made no reply. But the warrior, assuring her that he was no enemy to his Lordship, charged her, if she valued his life, without the least delay, to deliver into his own hand a let- ter which he pulled out of his sporan, and which he stated contain- ed intelligence of the last importance to the President The woman, liastening with the letter as directed, arrived at the castle just after the company had taken their seats at the dinner table ; she had ac- cordingly great difficulty in obtaining access, but her urgency in- duced some of the servants in attendance to mention her earnest request to be admitted immediately to his Lordship. She was ordered in, and walking up to the head of the table, with a profound courtesy, delivered the letter, requesting at the same time that it should be forthwith read, as she had reason to believe it related to 370 KOSS AND CROMAllTY. a matter of great moment to all present. The President was not the man to act the part of the Theban, to whom a letter, warning him of imminent danger, had been brought as he was sitting at a feast, and which, instead of reading, he put sealed under his pil- low, saying ** in crastinum defero res severas." The sagacious pa- triot acted differently, and having instantly read the letter, became aware of the perilous situation in which he was placed, in time to escape with his life. For so seasonable and important informa- tion, he was indebted, as was said, to the gratitude of Coll Bain (Macdonald) of , who had some years before then, stood trial before the Court of Justiciary, on a capital charge, and had been, contrary to his own expectations, acquitted through the able services of the President, at that time practising as an advo* cate in the courts. Coll, aware of the danger that now threaten- ed his benefactor, repaid him his important services ; enabling him, by conveying this timely intelligence, to escape the clutches of his mortal foes. In this critical situation, the President's usual pru- dence and promptitude did not forsake him. Orders were given to treat the men with ample cheer — the bagpipes were blown, and dancing was commenced on the lawn. Every thing betokened the absence of alarm, till arrangements for a speedy flight were com- pleted. Then the whole party darted awaj( towards the Kessock, and reached the boats just in time to escape the rebels, who, hav- ing observed the movement from the castle, gave chase with the swiftness of the mountain stag. As the boats were crossing, some bullets whizzed past the ears of the loyalists, but happily no per- son received injury. The President and his friends having thus narrowly escaped, pursued their flight to the mountains between Ross and Sutherland, where they skulked for several weeks, in a state of most painful anxiety, enduring the inclemency of the weather, and reduced to the greatest extremity of hunger. The inhabitants of those districts, being generally in favour of Charlie, would afford the fugitives neither shelter nor supply of food ; nay, on one occasion, they actually hunted them with dogs. And but for the seasonable kindness of some friend of the Grovernment, who with great secrecy sent them a present of a few sheep, &a they must have perished of famine. Intelligence of the battle of the 26th April, however, released them from these hardships, and was con- sidered a rich reward for all their privations and sufferings. So re- duced were the men, however, on their return to their homes, that their families could scarcely recognize them. A daughter of one of URQUHART AND LOGGIE-WESTEU. 371 the Ferrintosh tenants, who formed part of the President's escort on this occasion, still survives, and states that she remembers perfectly having often heard her mother declare, that the children of the fa- mily iled affrighted from their father when he tirst presented him- self on his own floor after his return, so greatly was his aspect changed, like Nebuchadnezzar after his sojourn among the beasts of the 6eld. Ferrintosh Privilege. — The history of this celebrated privilege we transcribe without alteration from the former Statistical Ac- count of the parish. — " The lands belonging to Mr Forbes of Culloden, which go by the name of Ferrintosh, and form the cen- tral and largest division of the parish, possessed, from 1690 to 1786, an exemption from the duties of excise on spirits djstilled from grain of their own growth. This privilege was originally granted to the present proprietor's great-grandfather, Duncan Forbes of Culloden, one of those patriots who, at the glorious pe- riod of the Revolution, stood up in defence of the religion and li- berties of their country. By opposing the disaffected, and sup- porting the loyal subjects in his neighbourhood at much expense, he was materially instrumental in quashing a rebellion, which at that time threatened the north of Scotland. Going some time thereafter to Holland, in prosecution of the same patriotic plan, the Popish faction, during his absence, laid waste his estates, par- ticularly the barony of Ferrintosh, and destroyed extensive dis- tilleries, of which it was the seat at that time, and before the in- troduction of the Excise into Scotland. In compensation for the losses which he had thus sustained in the service of Government, the Parliament of Scotland, by an act passed in 1690, farmed to him and his successors, the yearly excise of the lands of Ferrin- tosh) for the sum of 400 merks Scotch, subject, as explained by a posterior act, to a proportion of any additional duties of excise that might thereafter be imposed by law upon the kingdom. This privilege his successors enjoyed without interruption till the year 1786. As a mark of public favour, it was not more honourably acquired at first, than it was amply merited afterwards by a con- tinued succession of important services in their country's cause. In 1715, the original grantor's (grantee's?) son, adhering to the principles of the Revolution, raised all the men upon his estates, and deeply impaired his private fortune, by keeping them in arms at his own expense, till that rebellion was happily quelled. The sendees rendered to Government in 1745, by that great man and 372 ttOSS AND CROMARTY. ornament of his country, the Honourable Duncan Forbes of Cul- loden, President of the Court of Session, are universally known. At the breaking out of that Rebellion, he applied himself with zeal to nip it in the bud. He successively invited the chieftains to Culloden House, and whilst he delighted them by his con- versation and winning manners, he so wrought on them by his persuasive eloquence, that he was the happy instrument of keep- ing thousands from joining the Pretender's standard. His exer- tions at that critical conjuncture, whilst they brought bis own li- berty, and even his life into imminent hazard, involved his family in a debt, double to that with which he had found it loaded, from his predecessor's zeal in the same cause, and amounting together to upwards of L. 30,000 Sterling. About two-thirds of that sum, and less than sixteen years' purchase of its proven increasing va^ lue, was the allowance made by Government to the present pro- prietor, on their resumption of this immunity in the year 1786. The singularity of this privilege, and its great influence in a sta- tistical view, on the condition and number of the inhabitants of this parish, have led to this short account of its origin, and of the services by which it was earned." Eminent Characters. — The most distinguished character ever connected with this parish, so far as is known, was President For- bes ; but, in consequence of what iis stated above regarding him, it is unnecessary to take any further notice of him at present We must not under this head pass over General John Mac- kenzie, residing at Balevil, in this parish. He is of the ikmily of Gairloch, and was born at Conan House. While very young he entered the army, and soon distinguished himself as an intrepid soldier. He had the reputation of being a kind and generous officer, and at the same time an exact and efficient disciplinarian. After serving his country in various parts of the globe, such as Holland, India, the Peninsula, &c., he now enjoys his ^* otium cum dignitafe," on a farm which he has brought to a high state of improvement. On this head it will not be improper to enumerate the excellent pastors with which this parish has been favoured, in uninterrupted succession, since the period of the Revolution. The last Episcopa- lian minister, who held the charge, was a Mr Andrew Ross, said to have been a very pious man, and popular as a preacher. His successor was a Mr Alexander Fraser, who, it appears, was emi- nent for both piety and talent, and was translated to Inverness URQUHART AND LOGOIE-WESTER. 373 He was succeeded by Mr Alexander Falconer, admitted in 17*29. In character he was like his predecessor. After him was Mr Donald Fraser, inducted in 1757. He has been represented as a man of a vigorous and comprehensive mind, and of extensive attainments. As a theologian he was reputed profound ; and in expounding the Scriptures few were considered his equals. The late eminent Dr Fraser of Kirkhill, known in the theological world by his ** Key to the Prophecies, and Commentary on Isaiah," was a son of this clergyman. Mr Fraser died in 1773. His suc- cessor was Mr Charles Calder, who finished his ministry in 1812. Of this eminent servant of Christ, it may be said, that perhaps no minister ever reigned more in the hearts of his people. As a preacher he was solemn, earnest, and affectionate. His discourses were fraught with the theme of redeeming love, and were composed in chaste and elegant language, evincing, in a high degree, a polish- ed mind, and a classical taste. His ministrations were consequently peculiarly attractive, and were attended with abundant success. The heavenliness of his deportment rendered him an object of reverence, — while his liberality to the poor, — his sympathy with the distressed, — his kindness to the young, — and the fatherly interest he took in the welfare of all, endeared him to his parishioners. His name is fragrant among the religious community of these bounds, and is embalmed in the memory of such of them as en- joyed his ministry, who still delight in repeating many a striking passage of his sermons, which remain as it were stereotyped on the tablets of their hearts. Land^ovmers, — The land-owners are, Mr Forbes of Culloden ; Sir James Wemyss Mackenzie of Scatwell ; and Sir Francis A. Mackenzie of Gairloch. The estate of Findon, forming the eastern portion of the parish, is the property of Sir James. According to a survey made in 1835, it consists of 4214 imperial acres, as follows : — A. R. P. Arable, . . 1533 1 12 Puturc, . • 2351 20 Waste, . . 284 1 15 Wood, • - 46 9 Total, 4214 3 16 The yearly rent is L.1766, Os. 9d. Sterling. It is proper to ob- serve, that considerable improvements are in progress on this pro- |)erty — such as adding to the arable, enclosing farms, and laying out ground for planting. 374 ROSS AND CROMARTY. The far-famed barony of Ferrintosh, belonging to Culloden, forms the central district of the parish. It contains, as appears from a survey made in 1810, 4726 Scotch acres (5060 acres im- perial) comprising: — A. R. P. Arable, - - 1826 14 Pasture, - - 1610 25 Moor, - . 1051 2 13 Houses and gardens, 11 1 27 Roads, - . 16 2 20 Woods, . - 210 3 37 Total, 4726 3 14 The quantity of arable is now, however, greatly increased, as hundreds of acres have been brought into cultivation since the sur- vey referred to was taken ; and it may be added that much of the reclaimed land is of a superior quality. Improvements on an exten- sive scale are rapidly advancing on this estate. The yearly rent is about L. 2500 Sterling. Of the estate of Conan, comprising the western portion of the parish, Sir Francis is proprietor. The extent of this property may be estimated at 2400 imperial acres, of which are arable 1500 acres; in pasture, including moor, 300 acres; and in woods 600 acres. It is due to the worthy Baronet to state, that he is distinguished for zeal in agricultural improvements, as respects both the reclaim- ing of waste ground, and introducing the modern system of hus« bandry among his tenants. The annual rent is above L. 1000 Sterling. Parochial Registers. — The oldest register now extant is dat- ed in 1715. The writer of the former account of the parish makes mention of one commencing in 1709; but if such ever existed it must have been lost, as the present incumbent never saw it. For the first thirty or forty years the entries seem to have been made very irregularly, there being intervals of years, during which neither baptism nor marriage was inserted ; and in the case of bap- tism, when recorded, the name of the father alone was registered. Subsequently, however, more attention was paid to this important matter; and for a considerable number of years back, the registers have been kept with great care ; baptisms and marriages being punctually entered. Of deaths no record is kept, — a circum- stance which requires reform. IIL — Population. Males. Females. TotaL In 1792, the population was 1357 1544 2901 1811, IJdl 1533 2664 URQUHAUT AND LOGGIE-WESTEK. 375 « Males. Females. Total. 1821 , the population was 1218 1G04 2822 1831, . 1318 1546 2864 Cenius 1831— Males above 20 years of age, 661 Families, ... 710 Average number of births fbr the 7 years ending in 1830, 64 marriages, 17 Houses inhabited, 618 uninhabited, 22 building, . . 11 Ijafiffuage.^^The language generally spoken by tlie natives of the parish is Gaelic; and though English is daily spreading among us, and is now certainly better understood than at any former pe- riod ; yet it is believed that the original language of the Highlands has not lost ground for the last forty years. This may be easily accounted for, from the fact that almost all the youth are now taught to read the Scriptures in Gaelic as well as in English in the schools. The consequence is, that the Gaelic is not only preserved, but actually makes progress among us. Character of the People. — The cottars, who are still by far the more numerous class, cannot be said to enjoy in any considerable degree the comforts of life ; but they are in general content with their situation. The better sort of tenants are, however, fast ad- vancing in intelligence, and consequently in respectability of cha- racter and circumstances. Since the period of the former Statis- tical Account, the people have made progress in religious know- ledf^e and in moral conduct. Smuggling, which at one time was very prevalent, is now happily extinct. A single drop of whisky has not been distilled in Ferrintosh for years : What a change ! But it is all for the advantage of the morality and circumstances of the inhabitants. Neither can poaching be said to prevail, though a case may now and then occur. IV. — Industry. The great majority of the inhabitants of the parish is employed in agriculture ; either as occupiers, feed-servants, or day-labourers. And of those who have a handicraft, the most hold also a small portion of land; so that there are very few who are not, occasionally at least, engaged in husbandry. This circumstance, it is obvious, renders it extremely difficult to 'classify the people. The extent of the farms varies from 20 to 150 acres, the average being about 50. ^The possessions of the cottars are small ; Sciy, at an average, 4 acres. Of late years, the system of forming large farms out of several small ones has become pretty general ; and suitable en- couragement is given to the tenantry to build commodious dwel- ling-houses and offices, as well as to reclaim waste ground, and to 376 ROSS AND CROMARTY. introduce the modern improvements in husbandry. Consequently a great change in the appearance of the parish has already been effected, and a greater is in rapid progress. Several comfortable dwelling-houses and convenient farm-steadings have started up ; farms have been enclosed and subdivided ; many a valuable acre has been brought under the plough ; a regular rotation of crops is now pursued ; and the most approved farming implements in- troduced ; also lime and bone-dust are employed to a considerable extent to stimulate and fertilize the soil. The spirit of improve- ment has extended to the cottars, who, perceiving the advantages of the new system, readily adopted it, and not without success It is scarcely necessary to observe, that the result is a great in- crease of produce, amounting to double what it was twenty years ago. As further evidence of the rapid march of improvement among us, it may be stated that, at the date of the former Statis* tical Account, there was not a single thrashing-mill within the bounds of the parish; now, however, there are seven^ and the erection of several more is contemplated. The principal crops of grain raised are oats and barley. Wheat was a few years ago very generally cultivated ; but though it suc- ceeded in point of return and quality remarkably well, yet it was found that the growing of this grain considerably injured the land, so that it IS now not so extensively sown. The soil is well adapt- ed to pease, beans, potatoes, and turnips. The cultivation of this last-mentioned root is much attended to ; and it may be remarked, that of all the improvements introduced into this quarter, the plan of eating off the turnip by sheep on the field, seems the most be- neficial to the farmer, this process being almost in every case fol- lowed by splendid white crops. Since the possessions of the cottars are too small either to keep them in constant employment, or to maintain their families, num- bers of them generally go to some of the southern counties, (after laying down their little crops,) in quest of employment as labour- ers, and remain at such work as they may find till the beginning of winter, when they return with the proceeds of their labour, which go to pay the rent, and to the supiK)rt of the family. This practice is pursued also by some of our tradesmen, such as masons and carpenters, who visit the large towns of the south vrith the double view of adding to their earnings, and of improving them- selves in their respective crafts. In consequence of the recent improvements in husbandry, an increased demand for labourers is URQUHART AND LOGGIE-WESTER. 377 created at home, so that the number of persons who now visit the south in quest of employment, especially as reapers, is materially on the decrease. LecLses. — The usual duration of leases is nineteen years. A few of what are called improving leases extend to the term of thirty- one years. Bent of Land. — The average rate of rent for arable land is about L.1, 5s. per acre. Wages. — Ploughmen receive from L.6 to L.8 per annum, toge- ther with board. Maid-servants are allowed from L. 3 to L. 4. Men employed as day-labourers are paid at from Is. dd. to Is. 6d. per day. Women for field-work, 6d., and in harvest they are al- lowed Is. When day-labourers are provided by their employers with board, about one-third of the usual money wages is deducted. There is no manufactory in the parish. The machinery of the south has almost entirely superseded the spinning-wheel of the in- dustrious matron, and the simple loom of the country weaver. The good old practice of manufacturing the linen and other ap- parel for the use of the family, which at one time formed a prin- cipal part of the domestic employment of the female sex, is now nearly forgotten. Our young people have accordingly exchanged the simple but comfortable woollen stuffs in which their ancestors attired their limbs, for the more gaudy but less substantial fabrics of Glasgow or Manchester. Whether any benefit accrues to their health from the change may be questioned. Is it improbable that the substitution of their cotton for warm woollen raiment in the humid climate of Britain is a main cause of the prevalence of con- sumption in the present day ? V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Toums. — There is no market-town in the parish. The nearest is Dingwall, distant from the central parts of the parish, round by Gonan Bridge, about five miles. But across the frith, by a boat, at time of high water, and by the sands during ebb time, the distance is not more than two miles. Dingwall is also the nearest post-town ; which is obviously an inconvenience to the pa- rish at large, but especially to the eastern parts. Fairs. — At a small village called Culbokie, four fairs are held in the course of the year. Villages. — The village of Conan Bridge, on the line of the great northern road, is a thriving place, with a population of upwards of 800 souls. Culbokie, already noticed, is the only other village. ROSS AND CROMARTY. B b 378 BOSS AND CROMARTY. Means of Communication. — The Bridge thrown over the Conan^ at the village called by that name, in 1810, consisting of five arches, is a handsome solid fabric. It is built of durable freestone, and the cost of erection was L. 6000 Sterling. Between it and the Beauly Bridge, subsequently built, a communication is opened by an excel- lent turnpike road, along which the mail runs. Another road leads from Conan Bridge, across the Maolbine, to the Kessock, sending off a branch about half-way, in the direction of Fortrose and the fer- ry of Fort George. These roads are kept in excellent repair; but the smaller branches which intersect the parish are not at all attended to as they ought, being often in a very insufficient state. The frith is not of sufficient depth, so far up as this parish, to admit of the approach of vessels of considerable burden. A good deal of trade goes on, however, by means of sloops, which come into a quay erected a few years ago, at a place called Alcaig. They bring us coals, limci &c. ; and receive in return props for coal-pits, and timber of larger size for other purposes. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is a plain capacious house, situated near the sea-shore, as nearly as possible in the middle of the parish. It was built in 1795, and is in a good state of repair. The number of sitters intended to be accommodat- ed is 1200 ; but from 1 500 to 1800 persons have often been crammed within its walls. The manse was built in 1777, and is still in good condition. It underwent, of course, repairs several times, — the last in 1837, when a complete square of offices was elected, one of the best in the county. It was stated in the for- mer Statistical Account, that two glebes were attached to the church, each of which was at a considerable distance from the manse. To obvidte this inconvenience, the present incumbent, soon after his admission, got both excambed for lands contiguous to the manse, and received in lieu of them — arable, 15 acres, and moor ground 18 acres. Of the latter, he has since reclaimed to the extent of 8 acres ; so that the arable now consists pf 23 acres. In regard to'value, it is equal to the average of the land through- out the parish. — The stipend, since the last augmentation in 1834, is 18 chalders, Linlithgow measure, half meal, half barley. For many years, no fewer than three catechists were employed in this parish by the kirk-session ; at present there is only one. To compensate, however, for that apparent diminution in the agency for communicating religious instruction, it is proper to observe, that several Sabbath evening schools (to the number of six,) have been URQUHART AND LOGGIE-WESTER. 379 put into operation in the different districts of the parish, all of which are well attended, and are successful in conveying to the rising generation, as well as to others, iiiucli important Scripture knowledge. All these schools are taught without remuneration. There is scarcely a Dissenter in the parish. A considerable number of the inhabitants of the western districts of the parish were, thirty or forty years ago, Episcopalians ; but, of that persuasion, there are now very few indeed, — almost all the young people having be- come attached to the Established Church. The attendance upon divine service is very regular throughout the whole year. The number of communicants, at present, exceeds 150. There is a penny-a-week society, the average amount of whose annual con- tributions to the cause of religion may be stated at L. 10. It has been in operation for upwards of twenty years. The amount of church collections for religious and charitable objects may ave- rage, yearly, L. 20 Sterling. Education. — There are 3 schools in the parish, — the parochial school, in the centre ; a school maintained by the Society in Scot- land for Propagating Christian Knowledge, in the east end ; and one, established a few years ago by Sir F. A. Mackenzie on his own property, in the west end; and to which, besides having provided, at his own expense, the whole of the requisite accommodations, he very laudably grants a small salary out of his own pocket, and also al- lows the master a good garden. All these schools, are, especially during the winter and spring months, well attended ; consequently, there are but very few, indeed, of the young people who do not obtain some share of education, to the extent, at least, of being taught to read the Scriptures in both languages. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodations ; the salary is the maximum ; and his fees may amount to L. 12 per annum. The emoluments arising to him from the office of session-clerk are from L. 4 to L. 5. The average attendance of scholars is about 65. The branches taught are, English and Gaelic reading, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, Latin, geography, and mathematics. The rate of fees per quarter is, for reading, 2s. ; reading and writing, 2s. 6d. ; arithmetic, 4s. ; Latin, 4s. ; mathe- matics or geography, 7s. 6d ; and for three sets of book-keeping, L. 1, Is. The salary of the Society schoolmaster is L. 15. In addition, the proprietor allows him a small portion of land. Poor and Parochial Funds.— The number of persons at present receiving parochial aid is 170. It is necessary to observe, that none 380 ROSS AND CROMARTY. of the poor of this parish depend entirely on the session for itiaiD- tenance, — the most of them shewing a most laudable desire to do all in their power towards their own support ; and in cases of total inability through age or sickness, the relatives of the poor are ge- nerally ready to extend a helping hand to relieve their wants, and to prevent their becoming a burden on the parish. The funds at the disposal of the session, arising from church collections, rent of land, and interest of invested money, amounting, at an average, after deducting the usual burdens, to L. 55 Sterling, are distribut- ed annually ; of course, the allowance to each cannot be more than a mere trifle ; still it is in almost every case thankfully ac- cepted. In cases of sickness and urgent want, occasional relief is afforded out of the Sabbath collections, and that sometimes to persons not on the poor's roll. When families in indigent circum- stances happen to be visited with serious sicknesss, and death makes breaches in their numbers, the sympathy of the parishioners is promptly manifested in special collections for the relief of the distressed. Inns. — The only Inn in the parish is one at Conan village, on the great northern road, where it is quite necessary, and is very well kept. Of dram-shops there are 3^ which might be dispensed with, without any inconvenience to the public, or detriment to the morals of the inhabitants. Fuel — The fuel chiefly used by the principal tenants is coals, which is imported from Newcastle or Sunderland, and which can be obtained at the average price of 15s. per ton. A considerable number of the inhabitants use only a baked kind of peat, which is found in a moss in the upper part of the parish. With the addi* tion of a little fire- wood, which can be had at a very cheap price,, this peat makes a pretty good fire; and to coals, it is a great and decided improvement. February 1840. PARISH OF AVOCH. PRESBYTERY OF CHANONRY, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. JAMES GIBSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Nanuj Boundaries. — Avoch (a name which in the opinion of an ingenious etymologist, signifies ^^ shallow waters,") is bounded on the east by the parish of Rosemarkie ; on the south-east, south, and south-west, by the Moray Frith, and that branch of it called Mun- lochy Bay; on the west, by the united parishes of Kilmuir Wester and Suddie ; on the north-west, by the parish of Urquhart ; and on the north, by the united parishes of Cullicudden and Kirkmichael. Extent — The greatest length of the parish of Avoch, in a straight line from the coast of the Moray Frith to the Folds of Auchterflow, is 4^ miles ; its greatest breadth along its northern boundary, 3 miles. But this measurement, from the irregularity of its figure and boundary, would give an area much beyond the true one, which is only about 10^ square miles. This extent may be strictly said to form a portion of the southern side of one great hill, called the Milbuy, Maol Buidh, (yellow headland,) which, although only about 500 feet high, extends from the Muir of Ord to the town of Cromarty, and divides the two great arms of the Moray Frith which wash, the one the shores of Dingwall, and the o h of Beauly. Topographical Appearances. — Although, however, this range presents in appearance a regular acclivity from the sea to its sum- mit, there are several ridges of sandstone and conglomerate over the lower half of the parish, running parallel to the main range, which occasion an agreeable diversity of hill and dale. The extent of the coast along the Moray Frith, from the Craig- land Burn to the Bay of Munlochy, is exactly three miles ; and the shore of Munlochy Bay, with which the parish bounds almost the whole way, on one side measures one mile and three-quarters more. Along the coast, from the east boundary to the village of Avoch, there is a steep romantic ridge of conglomerate, covered 382 HpSS AND CUOMAUTY. with wood, and the richest and choicest collection of native plants. And at the entrance to Miinlochy Bay, there is a large mass of similar material, which, according to tradition, was once covered with stately oak timber, but which now, whatever has been the cause of the great change, presents no trace of such a forest, and indeed over two-thirds of the mass seems to be completely denud- ed of the soil, and presents in its curiously formed circular peaks and basons of bare rock, — a very apt miniature resemblance to a volcanic range. At these two places there are detached portions of rock — but otherwise, the whole shore is sandy and gravelly, with here and there an occasional small boulder. The upper portion of Munlochy Bay is formed of a deep blue clay, which, if reclaimed, and it might be reclaimed at no great expense, would form a valuable addition to the agricultural portion of the district Climate, — The air is generally dry and healthy. There are 44 of the inhabitants of this parish above seventy years of age. There are no distempers peculiar to this parish ; but it may be here mentioned, that in 1833, considerable havoc was made in the vil- lage by cholera. Hydrography, — The waters of the Moray Frith, and also of Munlochy Bay, which bound the southern, and part of the west- ern sides of the parish, are dark-coloured, but perfectly salt at all times of the tide. The tide recedes one- fourth of a mile op- posite the village of Avoch, where the breadth of the Frith is about three miles. As the tides come through the Pentland Frith, they are always raised by a westerly, and depressed by an easterly wind. The highest stream tides rise from sixteen toeighteen feet; the highest neap tides from eight to ten feet The whole of the parish, with the exception of the south side of the second ridge, called Tourie Lum, is well supplied with excellent water from perennial springs. There are two on the north side of the village of peculiarly excellent quality, Hainuck and Charles's. But the one of great celebrity is Craiguck, on the estate of BennetsGeld, which is annually resorted to by numbers of invalids — at any rate by numbers who fancy themselves to be invalids, — early on the first Sabbath morningof May, old style, from various parts of the country. Previous to partaking of it, the propitiatory oblation has sometimes been rigidly observed — namely, of spilling a portion of the water upon the ground three times, and of affixing an offering of a rag, which is suspended upon a bramble bush that overhangs it — which, from the traditionary antiquity of the custom, might appear to re- AVOCH. 383 fer to something before the introduction of Christianity ; at the same time, there seems a shade of compromise, as they do not forget to cross themselves. The amount of benefit, flmcied or real, derived from the pellucid water of Craiguck, it is impossible to ascertain. But of this there can be no doubt, that in favourable weather, a morning sail or walk to that most picturesque spot, must prove essentially conducive to the health of many an invalid, whether the disease be real or imaginary. — The Burn of Avoch, which rises principally in this parish, and proves so essentially serviceable to four mills — one wool-carding mill, and three corn- mills, — after winding beautifully through the estates of llosehaugh and Avoch, discharges its waters into the frith at Henrietta Bridge, close to the village. Near to the source is a beautiful |X)ol, cal- led Littlemilstick, celebrated as the pool in which, in times past. Baptists were immersed. The last immersion was tliat of a young woman, from the parish of Rosemarkie, nearly twenty years ago. The only piece of fresh water is Scadden's Loch, which covers fourteen imperial acres. Geology, — The great peninsula of Ardmeanach, or the Black Isle, contained between the Moray and Cromarty Friths, consists mainly of a succession of sandstone ridges falling from the high sandstone hills, which are abutted in huge conglomerated masses on the primitive slates of Ord, Fairburn, and Coul, in the parishes of Urray and Con tin. None of these ridges seem to be prolon- gations of the magnificent cliffs of Brahan, which, however, with the neighbouring masses to the south and west of them, undoubt- edly belong to the old red sandstone formation. To the east and north of the village of Avoch, a high granitic ridge has been upheaved from below the sandstone strata, dis- turbing and throwing their beds irregularly in every possible di- rection, but which has not to a great extent, or in many places, except along the coast, overtopped them. We shall afterwards describe the granitic rock, with its associate beds, directing our attention, in the first place, to the sandstone ridges, as to which it may be remarked, that an examination of them collectively, as extending over the whole district of the Black Isle, will prove more satisfactory, (and save repetition,) than if they were noticed in detail in the Statistical Account of each parish. Commencing, then, with the coast line at Avoch, and proceed- ing westward and across the district to the shores of the Cromarty Frith, the sandstone ridges are disposed in the following order, 384 ROSS AND CROMARTY. having extensive plains between them, more or less open, some- times inclined, and sometimes flat or undulating. 1st Ridge, Ormondy Hill, or the Lady's Hill of Avoch, and Castleton Hill, continued on the south side of Munlochy Bay, by the hills of Craigiehow, Pitlundy, and the Ord of Kessock, where the ridge is interrupted by the sea, but is prolonged on the opposite shore by Craigphadrick and Dunain Hill, to the sides of the primitive mountains on Loch Ness. The rocks throughout the course of this ridge are simply either hard red sandstone, or coarse granitic conglomerate, composed of fragments, more or less rounded, of primitive rocks, either imme* diately cohering together, or united by a gritty cement, with no alternating argillaceous or calcareous beds. The formation, there- fore, may be decidedly pronounced as that of the old red sand- stone. 2d Ridge. Hill from which the stones for the garrison of Fort George were quarried, on the Bennetsfield estate, prolonged from the southern shore of Munlochy Bay, by the ridge of Drum- derfit and Knockbain, to Lettoch, Coul, and Redcastle, on Loch Beauly. This ridge most probably is of the same formation as the first or exterior one, its superior beds, however, passing into, and form- ing part of the next, or dd Ridge. Proceeding at first in a direction rather transverse to the former two, by Avoch House and Rosehaugh, this ridge afterwards assumes a course more parallel to them, as it proceeds past Suddy, Allanbank, AUangrauge, and Arperpheilly, to the heights behind Redcastle, where it sinks rapidly, and on the estate of Tarradale is covered by the gravelly accumulations of Muir of Ord. 4th Ridge. The great central range of the ancient commonty called Milbuy, which overlooks all the other ridges, its ele- vation being 500 feet above the sea, and whose sides, sloping up to it as the great back-bone of the district, are shortest and steepest toward the north, but broader and more gentle in their southern inclination. Behind Belmaduthy House, this ridge at- tains its greatest altitude, but it thence proceeds with no interrup- tions or breaks in its outline, and generally of a pretty equal height, both towards Cromarty on the east, and by Tore, Kilcoy Castle, and Ryefield on the west, to the valley which is watered by the rivers Orrin and Conon, which separate it from the sloping Avocn. 385 fields and rocky frontlets of Brahan. On the north, the Milbuy range subsides by several parallel but lower sandstone ridges, in- to the Dingwall or Cromarty Frith, and on the south it is sepa- rated from the third ridge above described, by the moss of Auch- terflow, the cultivated grounds below Belmaduthy, and the fiat or boggy land which separates the property of Tore from that of Redcastle. The structure of the third and fourth ridges may now be consi- dered together, and although between them and the first and second ridges above-mentioned, we have discovered no beds of the true mountain limestone of the coal measures, nor yet of the bitumi- nous shales of Ferrindonald and Strathpeffer,* which seem to re- present them, yet we have little hesitation in assigning the geolo- gical place of these two ridges to the new red or variegated sandstone formation. Mr Miller's recent fossil discoveries at Cromarty may, however, perhaps determine these ridges to be the upper beds of the old red sandstone deposit. Their strata are softer and finer in tex- ture than those of the old red sandstone ridges. They have much fewer imbedded masses of conglomerate; they are more argillaceous, and abound in steatite and chlbrite or green earth. No organic re- mains have as yet been seen in these strata, but in very many places they present the striped or variegated aspect whence the formation has acquired its name ; some of the quarries, as on the estate of Rosehaugh and Suddy, exhibiting layers of alternate yellow, brown, and red colours, disposed in parallel streaks or ribbons. Several of the superior beds are also entirely yellow, or of a dusky white colour, whence it is suspected that they might perhaps be the outgoings in this direction of some of the oolitic deposits, which at one time seem to have been extensively spread around the shores of the adjoining frith. The unusual fertility and deepness of soil, however, on these ridges prevent the rocks from being frequently seen ; and the prolific nature of the materials into which they are decomposed, hence affords a farther indication of their belonging to the new red sandstone series, which abounds more largely with unctuous and clayish substances than such as occur in the older sandstone deposit. As already stated, the sandstone ridges now enumerated have been affected at their eastern termination by a great granitic erup- tion or ridge which first appears in the cliffs of the Craigwood be- tween Avoch and Fortrose, behind which it is covered with sand- * These beds usually intervene between the old and new red sandstone formations. 386 ROSS AKD CROMARTY. Stone and gravel-banks, but the granite reappears on the north side of the burn of Rosemarkie, and thence composes several of the hills and cliffs along the coast, till, at the Sutors of Cromarty, it is found completely disencumbered of the secondary deposits. The rock, especially at its western boundary, consists chiefly of a hard, small granular and flesh-coloured granite, through which are interspersed in minute grains and coatings, crystals of black iron ore and lead glance. Numerous and large masses of gneiss also occur intermixed with beds of hornblende, actynolite slate and quartz rock, among which garnets are extensively disseminat- ed ; while the whole are everywhere charged with granite veins. The intrusion of such granitic invasion among the sandstone strata could not fail to have greatly affected them, and accordingly, on the estates of Avoch and Rosehaugh, the ridge of which seems to have been over a centre of volcanic action, we find the soft new red sandstone upheaved into short perpendicular hardened masses, the alteration and dislocation of the previously horizontal strata being seen to extend from the base to the very summit and crest of the ridge. On the opposite sides of the hill, the strata are seen thrown off in opposite directions, and even in the plains of Suddy the layers of the red sandstone are so irregularly disposed, and so often broken and disturbed, that it would be as useless as te- dious to attempt to lay down with any degree of precision, the bear- ings or dip of the rocks. This confusion is worthy of notice, only as demonstrative of the greatness and extent of the granitic influ- ence. That rock itself, with its various beds, falls to be more mi- nutely described in the reports of the parishes of Rosemarkie and Cromarty. It is proper to add, however, that the great elevation of the Milbuy sandstones has been most probably occasioned by the same subterranean action, although we have not as yet seen the granitic rock cropping out on the surface ; and in this view, it is likely that the basin of the Cromarty Frith was formed on the upheaving of the sandstone ridges along its sides, and that, before the invasion of the sea from between the Sutors, it consisted of a series of inland lakes or hollows. Gravel, — The whole of the parish of Avoch is, like the neigh- bouring districts, strewn over with great beds of sand and gravel, transported from a distance, as well as resulting from the decom- posed materials of its own rocks. In the eastern part of the pa- rish, towards Raddery, the gravel beds increase in extent and thickness, and on descending the course of the burn of Rosemar- kie, which is situated nearly along the junction of the sandstone AVOCU. 387 and granitic masses, we find that hollow to have been a very ancient one, for it appears to have been partially filled with a vast accumu- lation of fine sand and communicated gravel, enclosing boulder- stones of various sizes, disposed in layers, not horizontal, but in- clined towards the centre of the valley. Streams from the adjoin- ing hills have since greatly cut up these gravel beds, which, from their great depth, present most fantastic forms, many of the banks being cut into large cones, both acute and truncated, while others present sharp ridges, leading up to battlemented impending masses, perched like old castles over the deep and winding moats which encompass their bases. Some of these gravel beds are, at least, 250 feet high, and exhibit bare sections most instructive to the geologist. Zoology, — In the burn of Avoch, the common trout and eel are to be found '^ and in the Frith, opposite to Avoch, oysters, cud- dies, flounders, and occasionally small herrings, are caught. When the small herrings appear, cod generally abounds. Halibut is also to be found in the Frith. There are two salmon-fisheries, one on the estate of Avoch, the other on the estate of Rosehaugh. In Munlochy Bay, mussels are to be found in great profusion. This bay is much frequented during winter by swans, the great northern diver, and an immense variety of ducks. Botany. — Few parishes in Scotland contain such a rich and ex- tensive flora as that of Avoch. But it will be sufficient to give the following list of those not common in many districts in Scotland. Linniean Name. Adoza moschatellina Allium uninum Astragalus glycyphyllus A vena pratensis Cares capillaris, rare «wMMa#n«ww Dincrvia Circsa alpina Drosera Anglica £chium vulgare English Name. Tuberous moschatel Broad-leaved garlick Sweet milk, vetch Narrow-leaved oat-grass Dwarf capillary carex Green- ribbed carex Alpine enchanters* nightshade Great sundew Common viper*s bugloss Equuietum variegatum, rarcVar. Ilough horsetail «....««....«•..«,« hyemalo Rough horsetail Eriophorum pubesccns, rare Down -stalked cotton-grass Eupatorium cannabinum Common licmp agrimony !«upa Fedia olitoria Galium borcale Geranium sanguineum Heliantbemum vulgaro Hyoflcyamus niger Juncus Balticus, rare Knautia arvensis Listera ovata Pinguicula alpina, rare Sinapis alba Trollius Europanu Viburnum opulus Vicia syWatica «l#<*WMtfl#«««««V«««M# salad or lamb*s lettuce Cross-leaved bed-straw Bloody cranesblU Common rock-rose Baltic rush Field knautia Common bird's nest Alpine butterwort White mustard Mountain globe-flower Common guelder. rose or water- elder Wood vetch When in flower. April, May. June, July. Do- June, July. June. July, August. Do. do. June, July. July, August. Do. do. April, June. July, August. April June. June, July. Do. do. July, August. July. Do. Do. May, June. July. June, July. Do. do. July August. 388 ROSS AND CUOMAllTY. The exposure of the Craigwood, like that of all the cliffs along the coast down to the Sutors of Cromarty, and the clayish qualities of its decomposing granites, render it extremely prolific in native herbaceous plants. In no part of the Highlands are more luxuri* ant festoons to be seen of Vicia sylvatica^ or larger and more showy specimens of Geranium sylvaticum^ and G. sanguineum^ and &urs. fraga granulata. The roses which make such a show in the same neighbourhood, and which caused the celebrated courtier, Sir George Mackenzie, to style his property " Rosehaugh," are of the species Rosa canina and 22. spinosissima. In the above list there will be found several rare plants, and one, Pinguicula alpina^ recently discovered here in great abundance, and not yet found in any other part of Britain. As this discovery excited at the time and since, considerable interest in the botani- cal circles, and as the particulars of it are variously detailed in se- veral publications, it may be interesting to give the following ac^ count which the writer has received from Campbell Smith, Esq. land-surveyor. In June 1831, while Mr Smith was engaged in the survey of Sir- James W. Mackenzie of Scatwell's estate of Kosehaugh, he invited his friend, the Rev. G. Gordon of Birnie, to visit him, and make a botanical examination of the neighbourhood. Upon Mr Gor- don's arrival, Mr Smith presented him with a number of plants which he had collected for his examination, (he himself having only commenced the study of the science) with one of these, viz. the new Pinguicula. Mr Gordon was delighted, and next day proceeded to the ground to gather fresh specimens of what he had hastily, and without examination, denominated P. lusitanica^ which he had never seen either in a live or dried state ; but which he knew was to be found on the west coast of Ross-shire. He traced it in great abundance from the bog of Auchterflow to Boggiewell, Rad- dery, a distance of more than two miles, and although he, no doubt, looked upon it with the eye of an experienced botanist, which he is, and observed the difference in the form of the spur, the specific character of the genus, yet, never questioning his first impression, and far less dreaming of being in possession of a plant which had as yet no place in the British Flora, and being content with finding a new and extraordinary station for P. hisitanica, which had never been found on the east coast of the kingdom, and rarely if ever in the interior, he sent specimens of it as such to several botanical friends, and among others to Mr H. C. Wat- AVOCH, 389 SOD, the author of the Geographical Distribution of British Plants, to whom the credit of examining and determining it to be a species new to Britain, must be awarded. Mr Watson communicated his opinion along with the specimen to Dr Graham, who also recognized the plant as P. dlpina^ and was the first to communicate to Mr Gordon the discovery which he had been the means of making to the British Flora* Dr Graham afterwards described the plant, and got it figured in the Botanical Magazine, from live specimens furnished by Mr Gordon. This new plant, P. alpina, is confined to the Rosehaugh estate, the property of Sir James Weymss Mackenzie of Scatwell, Bart, Lord Lieutenant of the county of Ross ; and it is a curious circum- stance, that since its discovery, P. lusitanica^ which it was at first confounded with, has been found by Mr Smith in great abundance, on a Highland estate, Kinlochluichart, in the very centre of Ross- shire, belonging to the same proprietor. II. — Civil History. Eminent Characters. — The celebrated Scots historian, priest and Lord of Session, Chambers of Ormond, was born in this pa- rish about the year 1530. He was proprietor of Castleton and Ormond Hill, which gave title to Douglas, Earl of Ormond. Sir George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh resided in this parish, and had very extensive possessions in it and its vicinity. These are now principally the property of the families of Scatwell, and Avoch, and Bennetsfield. The Chief Land-Chcners. — There are three land-owners : First, Sir James W. Mackenzie of Scatwell, Baronet, Lord Lieutenant of the county. His seat of Rosehaugh House stands on a beau- tiful bank about a mile and a-half from the sea, an elegant modern edifice, substantial and commodious. It is surrounded by rich fields in high cultivation, well fenced, and skirted with woods of dif- ferent kinds. He served for some time as Paymaster of the 55th Regiment, in the Wes^ Indies. Subsequently, he represented the county of Ross in Parliament for three successive Parlia*- ments, a period of nine years, without opposition. He married Henrietta Wharton Mackenzie, sister of the late General John Mackenzie of Suddie, who met a death of glory on the field of Talavera. An elegant monument is erected in St Paul's, com- memorative of his bravery as a soldier, and his high accomplish- ments as a gentleman. The second land-owner is Alexander Mackenzie, Esq. of Avoch. He is at present qualifying for the 390 HOSS AND CROMARTY. Eoglish Bar. He is the son of the late spirited and enter- prising Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who, among many other important discoveries in North America, discovered the river which bears his name. The House of Avoch, whose beautiful site was admired by every passer by, was burned in the year 1833, while it was rented by General Sir Donald Macleod, H. E. I. C. S. The third land-owner is John Matheson, Esq. of Bennetsfield. He holds the rank of captain in the 78th Regi- ment. He long served his King and country in foreign parts. He is the chief of the ancient clan Matheson. He is now resi- dent on his own estate in this parish — on a beautifully romantic spot near Munlochy Bay. Parochial Register. — There is a parochial register regularly kept. The earliest entry in the oldest register of this parish, which was by no means regularly kept, is dated 1727. Antiquities. — Almost the only antiquities in this parish are the site of the ancient Castle of Avoch, and the ruins of an old tower, called Arkendeith. The former occupied a detached rocky knoll — about 200 feet above the level of the sea — which juts out from the eastern corner of the hill of Castletoun, which forms the north- ern promontory of the Bay of Munlochy, and at the distance of about a quarter of a mile west from the modern village of Avoch. This knoll is now called " Ormond," or the " Lady Hill," and its steep sides and smooth summit are bedecked with a green vel- vety coat of grass, enriched by the lime and rubbish of the ancient buildings, and which marks it out to the eye in the midst of the adjoining heathy grounds. The eastern and more accessible slope is traversed by three breastworks of earth, with ditches be- hind them; and the summit, which is naturally divided into two irregular areas, extending together to about half an acre of ground, was covered with buildings formed of stones, cemented by shell- lime, exceedingly hard; from which encircling walls proceeded round the whole upper crest of the rockf and down a slight open- ing or ravine on the south side, along which the principal approach was formed, and which, from the accumulation of rubbish at the top and bottom, seems to have been guarded by a barbican and outer tower, with, in all likelihood, a regular portcullis and gate-way. But few historical reminiscences exist of this castle. Mr Eraser Tytler, in his History of Scotland, Vol. ii. page 65, mentions that Sir Andrew Moray, " a Lord," as described by an ancient chro- nicler, ^^ of great bounty, of sober and chaste life, wise and upright ;3 AVOCH. 391 in council, liberal and generous, devout and charitable, stout, hardy, and of great courage," sinking under the weight of age, and worn out by the couiitant fatigues of war, retired to his castle at Avoch, in Ross, where he soon after died. Winton states that he was buried at Rosemarkie, about the year 1338. Subsequent- ly the castle passed into the hands of the Earls of Ross ; and on the forfeiture of the earldom in 1455, we find among the castles then annexed to the patrimony of the Crown, mention made of the House of Innerness and Urquhard on Loch Ness, and of " An- nache (Avoch,) Edderdail, callyt Ardmanache." And this annexa- tion in the time of James II. was repeated and confirmed by the whole Parliament on the 1st July 1476, in favour of James III., who afterwards, on the 29th January 1487, created his second son Duke of Ross, Marquis of Ormonde and Earl of Edirdal, otherwise called Ardmanache ; from which period the lordship of Ardmana- che, or the Black Isle, was generally considered as part of the patri- mony of the King^s second son. ( See the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland, Thomson's folio edition, Vol. ii. pp. 42, 113, and 181.) In the annexation in 1455, Redcastlc, with the lordship of Ross pertaining thereto, is also particularly mentioned. Thus the origin of the term Ormond's Mount, as applied to the site in question, admits of easy explanation ; that of '^ the Lady Hill" probably results from local tradition having confounded this site with that of some religious edifice. Like the Cathedral of Fortrose, and many other buildings along the margin of the Mo- ray Frith, the Castle of Avoch was most likely razed to the ground by the soldiers of Oliver Cromwell, and the stones of it transport- ed to form part of his great citadel or fort at Innerness. Of the fortalice or tower of Arkindeith but the lower or dun^ geon story remains. It is situated close by the farm-house of that name, on the hill side, a little way above the offices of Avoch. It evidently belonged to a castellated mansion of no great antiquity, erected, perhaps, by some of the clergy, who are known to have held independent possessions in this parish, exclusive of the glebe lands ; or by some of the Bruces of Kinloss, a family who are spe- cially mentioned in the printed retours for the seventeenth cen- tury, (1611-18,) as having held the lands of ^^ Muireal-house and Arkindeuch."* III. — Population. The amount of the population of this parish in 183 L was 1956 * In the departments of Geology and Antiquities, Mr Gibson begs to acknowledge Iiis great obligations to George Anderson, Esq., Solicitor, Inverness. 392 ROSS AND CROMARTY. — males, 906; females, 1050. The amount of population this year, ( L839,) is 1936. The decrease has been occasioned by the removal of several families where farms have been enlarged for ^he sake of improvement. The No. of the population in Avoch, Henrietta town— Geddeston Kirkton, is 996 in the landward part of the parish, 1000 1936 The yearly average of births for the last seven years, is 50 • of deaths, .... 20 of marriages, . . .14 The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is . 684 from 15 to aO, . . 476 d0to50, . 463 50 to 70, . 269 above 70, ... 44 1936 Families employed in agriculture, . . 83 in trade, ... 80 in fishing, . . 80 All other families not comprised in the three preceding classes, 180 . "423 ToUl families, Married men. 265 Widowers, 25 Bachelors, 27 Married women, 268 Widows, 74 Spinsters, 40 Belonging to the Established Church, - 1036 Episcopalians, - - - 18 Independents, the precise number is not ascertained. Baptists, ... 6 Communicants, .... 93 Natives of the parish, . 1390 Scotch, . . 533 English, . 9 ' Irish. . . 1 Foreigners, . . 3 The number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years is 2. The only proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and up- wards are the three heritors. The number of families is 423. The number of inhabited houses is 023, and apartments, 96. There are 9 insane persons; 2 blind ; 5 deaf and dumb in this parish. Language^ Sfc. — The English language is spoken by all the fa- milies, with the exception of one or two who have recently emi- grated from Highland parishes. The game peculiar to the fisher- men of this parish is throwing a ball, weighing about four pounds, to test their strength and dexterity. It is only practised during the new-year holidays, O. S. The competition is often kept up with great keenness, and uniformly with good humour. Not un- frequently the ardour of the competitors carries them miles along AVOCH. 393 the turnpike-road before the palm for strength and dexterity is Yielded. Habits and Character of the People, — The ordinary food of the peasantry at their meals is oatmeal porridge, and potatoes and fish. They are certainly destitute of many comforts ; yet they seem, upon the whole, contented with their situation and circumstances. The general character of the people is decidedly moral and religi- ous; yet it is remarkable how few in these regions are communicants. Superstitions. — When a fisherman's marriage takes place, there is a superstitious practice, which never fails to be observed, even in these enlightened days, with the view, it is said, of setting at defiance the power of witchcraft; and it is this: When the bridegroom's party arrives at the church door, the best man unties the shoe upon the left foot of the bridegroom, and forms a cross with a nail or a knife upon the right side post of the door. The ishoe of course remains untied till next morning. While many admit the absur- dity of this relic of superstition, no one has had the hardihood yet to move for its abolition. The fishermen here generally marry at an early age, and seldom select a bride above nineteen years. The marriage is solemnized in the church, on a Friday, but never before 12 o'clock. On one occasion there were three marriages to be solemnized on one day. The friends of the parties, as is usual, waited upon me previously to engage my services ; I assured them I should be at their com- mand ; and requested them to fix upon a convenient hour for the three parties to be married at once. The friends of the parties looked grave — shook their heads — said nothing. I was entirely at a loss to divine what was meant by this sudden gravity of counte- nance — the shaking of the head — and the profound silence — and begged them to assign me their reason for this mysterious conduct After some delay, and hesitation, and reluctance upon their part, I was given to understand, that if the three parties were to be mar- ried at once serious consequences might ensue, for there would be a struggle made by each party to get first out of the church ; be- lieving, as they did, that the party that should get out first would carry the blessing. To prevent such serious consequences as might ensue, under such circumstances ; and these consequences might, perchance, prove far more serious than the mere tearing of gowns and caps and coats, (and these their best of course,) I ofiered to marry the parties in succession. But next came the question of pre- cedence — a delicate and difficult point, at all times to settle, at least ROSS AND CROMARTY. C C 394 ROSS AND CUOMARTY. to settle to every one's satisfaction — ^ point which they all acknow- ledged they were unable to settle — and that is not to be wondered at, for they knew that each party wished to be married first How then were we to get out of this second difficulty, became the ques- tion. After a cool and deliberate, and I can assure the parties, an impartial view of the subject, I thought fit to propose, that the party first contracted should be married first. The proposition was at once agreed to unanimously. The friends of the parties to be married went home perfectly satisfied with the arrangement. The three parties were married on the same day in succession. But let it be remembered that special care was taken that no party should meet any of the other parties either going to or returning from the church. Why ? Because it would be unlucky, IV. — Industry. There are in the parish, shoemakers, 26 ; masons, 9 ; boat- carpenters, 4; Wrights, 11; tailors, 14; sailors, 5; innkeepers, 5; blacksmiths, 5 ; cartwright, 1 ; weavers, 6 ; wheelwrights, 2 ; wool-carder, 1 ; pensioners, 5 ; diker, 1 ; gardeners, 3 ; saddler, 1 ; butcher, 1 ; merchants, 5 ; accoucheur, 1 ; sail-maker, V; ba- ker, 1; sawyers, 4; corn-dealer, 1; millers, 2; gamekeeper, I; fiddler, I ; piper, 1. Fisheries, — At one time there was only one fishing-boat in Avoch, the crew of which resided in the country ; now there are nine, manned by 10 men each, regularly employed in haddock and whit- ing fishing along the Sutherland and Caithness coasts. After sup- plying their own families, and the families around Avoch, they take the surplus to the Inverness market, a distance of about five miles. About the middle of July, Avoch sends forth no less than thirty- five boats for the herring-fishing at Caithness, (two went last year to Aberdeen), for the space of six or eight weeks. Some years have crowned our fishermen's perilous labours with great success and prosperity; — some of them have returned to their homes with L. 20, others with L. 30, others with L. 40, and others with L. 50 of clear gain. While other years again — such is the uncertainty attendant upon all human undertakings — few if any of our fisher- men are able to cover the necessary expenses. During this sea- son the fishermen and their families have been e^cposed to no in- considerable hardships ; for in consequence of the incessant tem- pests, by which so many valuable lives and property on different coasts of the empire have been lost, the fishermeti were prevented from going to the haddock and whiting-fishing for the space of AVOCH. 395 twelve weeks; and, were it not for the flounders which are caught nearly opposite to the. village, many families would have been des- titute indeed. It i^, ))erhaps, not unworthy of notice, that the first fishing after the tempests abated is reported to have been not only the most seasonable, but the most successful for the last forty years. Agricutturt. — Part of this parish has not recently been surveyed, consequently the exact extent cannot be given : but the following will be near the truth : Rosehaugh contains 4929 acres, 26 poles imperial, of which 2056 acres, 3 roods is arable; 1344 acres, 20 poles improveable ; 1340 acres, 3 roods, 24 poles planted or to be planted, and 187 acres, 1 rood, 21 poles waste. Avoch contains 983 acres, and Bennetsfield 336 acres. — Total 6198 acres, 26 poles. Rent. — The average rent of arable land in this parish may be estimated at L.1, 3s. per imperial acre. ImpnwemenUn — This parish has improved immensely in its agri« cultural aspect since the former report of it was published. Then the horses and cattle were described as being small, and the imple- ments of husbandry scanty and imperfect. Now the horses and cows are in general of a very good stamp and breed; and by the art and skill of our handicraftsmen, the implements of husbandry are abun- dant and effective. When the last report was drawn up, there was no wheat raised in this parish ; but now, it is raised on the three estates; and not many years ago a field of wheat on the estate of Rosehaugh yielded thirteen returns ; and last year a field of wheat on the estate of Avoch might have vied in luxuriance and quality with any field in the Lothians. A regular rotation of cropping, on the most approved of four-shifts system, is almost universally observed. Liming is very generally practised, and in most cases with eminent success. It is not out of place to mention here that turnips are now extensively cultivated ; and on several farms they are sown with bone manure, and eaten off by sheep ; the effects of which have been at once profitable to the farmers, and advantageous to the soil. On the estate of Rosehaugh, which comprises more than two- thirds of the parish, the leases recently expired, in consequence of which little improvement, comparatively speaking, was effected for some years previously. But the proprietor has got a new sur- vey and divisions of the lands, by which the possession in ^^ run- rig," which was very common, has been abolished, and the extent of the farms regulated and economized to suit one, two, or more 396 ROSS AND CROMARTY. pairs of horse labourings within distinct and convenient boundaries. And when granting new leases of nineteen years endurance, over the whole lands, the reclaiming and rendering thoroughly arable all the improvable waste ground was conditioned for, and the tenantry, now secure of their holdings, are going on with spirit and activity* And when the belts and clumps of planting which the proprietor has reserved, and is now enclosing, are completed, the district will assume a different and much more highly improved a{^arance. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Town. — The nearest market-town to Avoch is the royal burgh of Fortrose, about a mile and three-quarters distant Means of Communtcatioru — There is a turnpike road through the southern district of the parish, which leads to Fort-George Ferry on the east, to Kessock Ferry on the south-west, and to the royal burgh of Dingwall on the north-west. The toll lets at L.67 per annum. In the year 1829, when such appalling devastations were committed by the floods in the north of Scotland, the bridge of Avoch was entirely swept away. The burn having for some days assumed the appearance and the power of a mighty river. . A new bridge was speedily erected with a higher arch. It and all the other bridges and parapets are kept in good trondition. Ecdesiastical State. — The parish church is very conveniently si- tuated, on the southern side of the parish, close to the village, in which nearly one-half of the whole population reside. There are none of the parishioners residing at a much greater distance from it than three miles. It was built in the year 1670, new roofed and enlarged in the year 1792, and the ceiling was lathed and plastered in the year 1 833. It is at present upon the whole in a pretty comfortable state of repair, and affords accommodation for more than 600 ; some of the seats are the property of private indi- viduals. The remainder in general belong to farms on the estates of the heritors, for which no payment is exacted. The manse was built in 1822, the extent of the glebe in detached parts amounting to 5 acres, 3 roods, 16 poles, 2 yards imperial, and maybe valued at L. 2 per acre. The stipend amounts to 93 quarters, 1 boll, 2 firlots, 3 quarts of barley, and to 159 cwt 108 lbs. of oatmeal, pay- able at the rate of the Bar prices. The average for the last seven years is L. 260. The annual allowance for communion elements is L. 8, 6s. 8d. There is one Dissenting place of worship in the village, erected in the year 1819. It is an Independent chapel in communion with the Congregational Union of Scotland. The mi- AVOCH. 397 nister is paid by the seat rents and weekly collections at the chapel door. The number of fiimilies and persons of all ages attending the Established Church and the Dissenting chapel is always very considerable. The average number of communicants in the Esta- blished Church is 93. The number of Dissenting or Seceding fiunilies is 46. EducatiofL — There are two schools in this parish, the parochial school and one supported solely by school fees. The branches of education taught in the parochial school are, English reading, grammar, Latin, Greek, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and na- yigation. In the voluntary school, English reading, writing, and arithmetic are taught The parochial schoolmaster's salary is Xi. 80, and the school-fees, which, from the poverty of the people, are ill paid, may amount to something between L. 20 and L. 30* He has the legal accommodations. The general expense of edu- cation may be estimated at 6d. or 8d. per month. Friendly Society. — There is one Friendly Society in this parish, established in the year 1830, the objects of which are, by means of assessment and quarterly subscriptions, to form a fund for de- frajfing the funeral expenses of members and of their wives, and to insure a certain allowance to supply the wants of invalid members and widows. ^ Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number upon the poor's roll at present is 100. Two distributions are made from the funds in the course of the year, in January and in July. The average sum allotted to each at these periods is 3s. But intermediate allow- ances are always made, when required, to meet as far as possible all pressing exigencies. The annual amount of church collections for the relief of the poor averages L. 20 Sterling. The stock at present is L. 160. In the year 1728, Sir Kenneth Mackenzie of Scatwell, Bart, mortified 900 merks Scots, (which sum now yields I^ 2, lOs. per annum,) the annual interest of 600 of which was to be distributed among the poor of the parish, and the interest of the remaining 300 was to be given to a catechist, in terms of the deed of mortification.* It may not be out of place — indeed it is but an act of justice to the charitable — to record here, that several handsome sums have been contributed to said poor's stock at dif- ferent periods, from different sources. A legacy of L. 30 was be- * As no catechist is required in this parish, this sum is given to the parochial teacher, to aid in remunerating him for his unwearied exertions in teaching a Sab- bath evening school-^whcrc, to keep up a spirit of emulation, a prise is awarded ersry six weeks. 398 ROSS AND CROMARTY. queathed by the late iDcumbent, the Rev. James Smith, in 1830. A donation of L. 50 was made on the 20th June 1835, by Sir James W. Mackenzie of Scatwell, Bart, on which day his son arrived at majority; and in November 1838, a handsome dona- tion was made by James J. R. Mackenzie, Esq. younger of Scat- well, on his marriage with the Right Honourable Lady Anne Wentworth Fitzwilliam. In addition to all this, the principal heritor, Sir James Mackenzie of Scatwell, Bart., makes a present to the poor of the parish of six bolls of meal, on the 20th June — the birth-day of his son ; and the same quantity in February to the poor on Rosehaugh estate. On the 14th February 1839, a considerable quantity of coals was distributed among the poor by Alexander Mackenzie, Esq. of Avoch, on his arriving at ma- jority. Inns. — There are six inns in the village, yet such is the tem- perate and peaceable deportment of the people, that rarely, in- deed, are irregularities or excesses heard of. The proprietors, with a real regard for the morals of their tenantry, do not grant license even for a single inn or alehouse in the landward part of the parish. FueL — This parish is amply supplied with coals from Newcastle, which at present are selling at lOd. per cwt. They are delivered at the pier of Avoch, which is a most substantial and commodious erection, and is not only of essential benefit to the fishennen, but to the district at large, as it facilitates the exportation of grain and wood, and the importation of coal, salt, lime, and bone dust. The district is indebted for this incalculable advantage to the patriotic exertions of the late Sir Alexander Mackenzie of Avoch, From the poverty of the inhabitants, however, the fuel principally used in the landward district of the parish is turf, and in the vil- lage brushwood, which is carried in bundles by the fishermen's wives and daughters almost daily from plantations in the neigh- bourhood. February 1840. PARISH OF URRAY. PKBSBYTERY OP DINGWALI^ SYNOD OF ROSS* THE REV. JAMES MACDONALD, MINISTER.* I»— TOPOGRAPBY AND NATURAL HlSTORY. Namef Situation^ and Extent — Urray is composed of the unit- ed parishes of Urray and Kilchrist The former seems to derive its name from its local situation. The church and burying-ground lie on a large plain, on the banks of the rapid river Orrin, near its conflux with the Connon. The Orrin has, in the course of ages, evidently shifted its bed, and its passable fords, through every part of that plain, and would repeat its ravages almost every season, were it not restrained by the annual exertions of the surrounding proprietors. Hence it is probable the name is derived from Ur^a^ the new ford. Kilchrut is evidently Cella Christie a burying- ground consecrated to Christ.— -It is situated chiefly in the county of Ross : A small part of it lies in Inverness-shire. It extends from the Frith of Beauly on the south, to the north side of the river Connon, about 7 English miles in a straight line, nearly from south to north. Its breadth on the banks of the Connon, from east to west, is about 6 English miles, but does not exceed 3 to- wards the southern boundary, along the Frith of Beauly. The intermediate space lines the foot of the great chain of mountains which extends from thence to the west coast of Scotland. There is a davoch of land belonging to this parish in the valley of Strath- connon, in the bosom of the western mountains, at the distance of 10 computed, or 18 English miles. It is surrounded by the pa- rish of Contin, and forms a part of the mission in that parish. Surface^ SotV, and Climate. — The general face of the parish pre- sents a picturesque view of corn-fields, intermixed with barren moor, clumps of natural wood, rapid streams, large plantations around gentlemen's seats, with different views of the two beautiful Friths of Dingwall and Beauly, which, as canals formed by the * Drawn up from notes, furnished by Mr Charles Mackenzie, Parochial Schoolmaa- ter of Urray. 400 ROSS AND CROMARTY. hand of nature, and penetrating for upwards of twenty miles into a populous country, invite the merchant and manufacturer to settle on their banks. The soil is as various as the general face of the ground ; but on the whole, is warm, dry, and productive. The fields on the slopes of the rising-grounds are comparatively of a richer soil than the low-ground, except a part of the estate of Lo- vat, which once belonged to the priory of Beauly, and is a deep, rich, carse ground. The plains abound with pebbles, from four to six or eight pound weight, evidently rounded by friction, and intermixed with beds of dry sand and gravel. Hence a consider- able part of the low-ground is barren dry raoor^ producing only a short heath ; and the arable land, with a few exceptions, of infe- rior quality to that on the high lands. On one estate there are several small hollows surrounded by this dry barren soil, which seem to have been once small lakes, but are now filled with peat moss. On the bottom of several of them some strata of shell marl have been found.* jRivers.'^The Beauly empties itself into the Frith of that name at the south-west point of the parish, and cannot be said to belong to it The Connon intersects the parish near the north end, and is composed of four great branches.'^ The Orrin, running fi^om S. W., falls into the Connon below Brahan Castle ; a very irregular stream, fordable in many places during summer, but sometimes rising very suddenly to an alarming height^ and proving a very unwelcome and destructive visitant to all within its reach. Mr Mackenzie of Seaforth generously defrayed the expense of a wooden bridge thrown across it some years ago behind the manse of Urray ; but this was carried away by the flood of September 1839. It has been lately repaired at the expense of the county, and promises defiance to the violence of the stream. About two miles west from Urray, the Grarve falls in on the fiorth side, which running from W« N. W. rises on the confines of Loch- broom. Thence, five miles farther west, is the junction of the other two branches, the Meig and the Lichart. The former rises on the borders of Lochcarron to the W. S. W. ; and the source of the latter is on the confines of Gairloch to the west — The Connon * Old Statistical .Account. t There is a sprine on the bank of the Connon, near the west end of the parish, strongly irapr^nated with pulphur. The water is as clear as any other spring, but smells like the scourings of a foul gun. It is said to partake of the nature of Har- rowgate water, and to be useful in scorbutic complaints and rheumatism. It is of the same kind with the much frequented spring of Strathpeffcr, in the neighbourhood. URUAY. 401 abounds in salmon and pike. It has few trouts, except sea*trout in the months of July and August.* 11. — Civil History. Parochial RegiHerB. — There is a register of births and marri- ages} — the former commencing with the year 1756, and the latter with the year 1815. The register of births previous to the year 1820 was very irregularly kept, a great many names having been left out, and those m many cases entered improperly. The record was not even signed by the session-clerk. Land-owners. — In whole, there are eleven land-holders in the parish, the principal of whom are the following :— - A. Stewart Mackenzie of Seaforth, his valuation L. 711, 6s. Id. ; Greorge Gil landers, Esq. of Highfield, L.402, 7s. Id.; Thomas •Mackenxie of Ord, L. 342, 2s. Id.; Fowler of Fairburn, L.247, 19s. 8d. ; Balfour of Strathconnon, L. 243, 18s. ; Colonel Baillie of Tarradale, L. 223» 186. ' Mansion Houses. — These are, Brahan Castle, Highfield House, Ord House, Fairburn Tower, now in ruins. III. — POPULATIOK. There are no towns or villages in the parish. The Population in 1801 was . 2068 1811, . 2534 1621, 2781 1881, . 2768 Number of families in the parbh in 1881, 684 ehiefljr employed in agriculturo, 418 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 70 Illegitimate births in the parish in the course of the last three years, about 8. IV. — Industry. Rental. — The real rental of the parish is L. 2573, lds« The principal agriculturist within the parish is Mr Mackenzie of Ord, who has improved his lands very much of late. A distillery was set agoing about a year and a-half cogo, distant about a mile from the parish church. It is conducted by Messrs D. Maclennan, and Robert Johnstone, and is called the Ord Dis- tillery. jptMme^.— -Salmon-fishing is carried on in the river Connon at the proper season to a small extent. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — All the families in the parish belong to the Established Church, with the exception of 25 families, wlio * Old Statistical Account. 402 UOSS AND CROMARTY. are attached to the Episcopal Church ; and excepting also one Roman Catholic family. The stipend is fixed at 16 chalders. The glebe is about 8 acres in extent The manse was built in 1814, and is at present in excellent condition, having been repaired in 1887. Education. — There are 4 schools in the parbh, two parochiid schools, one Society school, and one Episcopal school, under the patronage of Mr Gillanders, Highfield. There is only one Sab- bath school at present, but other two are in contemplation. All these schools are within the compass of four miles : and do more schools are required. The salary of each of the parochial school- masters amounts to L. 25 yearly. The ^bable yearly amoant of fees actually paid to one of them is not more than Lb 6. The other school having newly begun, the amount of fees actually re- ceived by the teacher cannot be stated. The probable yeariy amount of the other emoluments belonging to the first parochial teacher Is L. 7. A Female School of Industry is about to be opened under the immediate patronage of Mrs Mackenzie of Ord, — a lady of exemplary piety, and full of zeal for supplying the destitute with useful and scriptural education. Poor* — The number of persons receiving parochial aid, ave- rages from 50 to 70. The average sum allowed to each yearly is about 6s. The average annual amount of contributions* for relief of the poor is about L.20, all arising from church coUeo- tions. July 1840. PARISH OF KINCARDINE. PRESBYTERY OF TAIN, SYNOD OF R09S. THE REV. HECTOR ALLAN, MINISTER.'' L — Topography and Natural History. ^ofiitf.— The name of this parish is of Celtic origin, being de- rived from dnn-'na^n^Airdeanf signifying the extremities of the heights : seyeral lofly ranges of hills coming to a termination here. The etymology of Kincardine, in the former Statistical Account, is said to be Obm-Na'-CAatrdean, or the heads of the friends; the reason for giving that derivation being, that ^^ the chief of the clan Ro6s» and his most powerful and confidential friends dwelt here, and fixed the name Kincardine to the place where they resided.^' But this b not nearly such a probable etymology as the first Extent, Boundaries, ^e. — The parish estends from east to west upwards of 35 miles, and varies in breadth from 5 to 20. It is bounded by the parishes of Creich, Assynt, and Lochbroom, on the north and west ; and by Eddertoun, Rosskeen, and Fodderty, on the east and south. At the east end, where the church and manse are situated, it is very narrow, but it widens gradqally to the western extremity, where the boundary between it and Assynt, and the counties of {loss and Sutherland, is a small rivulet called AUtanrndn-Cealgaehy or the burn of the deceitful, which flows from a long lake, with low and uninteresting banks, called Loch Boarlan. The reason of this rather extraordinary name having been given to the burn, was, that, in determining the boundary between the parishes of Assynt and Kincardine, the wit- nesses encroached considerably on the Assynt side, and made oath that they stood on Ross-shire ground, having earth from Kincar- dine in their shoes ! At this extremity the <^ forest of Balnagown" (a leafless one !) is situated ; it is a hill of great extent, and re- markable for the large size of its deer. The parish of Kincardine is partly in the county of Ross, and partly in that of Cromarty. * Drawn up by a Parishioner, at the request of the Cominittce si4)erinteDding the New SuUstical Account. 404 ROSS AND CROMARTY. It consists of several straths and glens, and abounds in hills and rivers. Hydrography. — The division betwixt this parish and the county of Sutherland is an arm of the sea, commonly called the Kyle; the tide flows twelve miles up this frith from Bonar, and receives three rivers, the Oikell, the CassleVy and the Shin in its course. These are all excellent angling streams ; and in the Cassley, about a mile above Rosehall, there is a very remarkable waterfall, forming a salmon leap of great altitude. The lochs in the parish, though not of great extent, are very numerous ; and some of them contain excellent trout. Geology and Mineralogy. — The prevailing rocks here belong to the granite and sandstone formation. This parish remains hithery to unexplored by any who have knowledge of mines. Oo tb^ farm of Dibidale, stands one of our highest mountains, called Carnchuinaig, on which stones have been found perfectly simir lar to those known by the name of Cairngorms ; and Knocktmyii where the parish marches with Assynt, abounds in marble, white and party-coloured. On the top. of the highest mountain in BaU nagown forest, which is 'called Sciulm-a-'Charra, and. is distant many miles from the sea, shells of different sorts offish are fimnd, some of them deeply imbedded in the earth. Zoology. — In the remote parts, amongst the hills, are red-deer (Certms elephas) ; and roes {C. capreolus) also abound. Foxes {Canis vulpes) are exceedingly numerous, and destroy quantities of sheep, notwithstanding, all the precautions that can be taken to pre^ vent them. Badgers ( UrsHs melea)^ and wild cats (Fdis hiatus faris)^ are also found. In the rivers, there are otters {MuMtela bUra)» Hares, rabbits, polecats, and weasels, are very plentiful ; and 5li>- mers complain much of the operations of the mole ( Ta^ Euro^ pea). Squirrels are also found in the woods of Olen Ainaig. ^trdlff.—^Besides the several domestic kinds, there are a great variety in the fields, woods, hills, and rivers ; such as the wood and mountain thrush (TurdtLs)^ green linnet {Lowia ddarig^ blackbird {Merula)j starling (Stwmus)^ cuckoo {Cuculus caiwms)^ lark {Alauda arvensts), wild pigeon (Columba OBmis)^ blackcock ( Tetrao tetrix)^ moor-fowl ( T. Scoticus)^ partridge ( 7". perdix), ptarmigan (T. lagopus)^ plover {CharadriusJ^ &c. Among the water-fowls are f^ulls {Lants marinus), wild goose (^sjer), swan {A. cygnus)^ duck (A. boschas)^ crane (Grus)^ heron {Ardea)y and kingfisher {Alcedo ispida). Birds of prey also 3 KINCARDINE. 405 ebound, — the esig\e {Aquila), hawk (Falco)^ raven {Corvus), kite {Milvus)j and hooded-crow (Comix cucullatus). Reptiles. — Among the reptiles are, — the viper (Coluber berus)^ adder {Jnffuis en/x), lizard (Lacerta)^ frog (Rana)^ and toad {Bufo), Botany.— Among the rarer plants found in this parish, the fol- lowing may be mentioned : Eriophorum pubescens^ which grows on a mossy height near the bridge of Oikell ; and amongst the trees on the banks of that river, the Hieracium deniiculatum occurs in great luxuriance, and sometimes upwards of four feet high. Dr Oreville found the very rare plant Ribes petraum^ three mil)Bs east of Rosehall. Hieracium alpvmm grows on some of the lofty hills ; and Isoetes lacustrisj Eleocharis multicaulis^ Juncus balti" eu8^ and Betula nanuy also exist, and the last very abundantly. IT. — Civil History. Tbe 6rst era to which reference can be made in the history of this parish, is the fourteenth century, in which the battle of Tui- team-Tarbhach took place. This serious conflict arose out of the following circumstances : Angus Mackay, the chief of the Mackays, had married a daughter of Torquil Macleod of Lewis, by whom he had two sons, Angus Dow, (so termed from his black hair), and Roderick Gald (or Lowland). Angus died young, leaving his sons and his lands un- der the tutorage and government of his brother, Houcheon Dow Mackay; some dispute happening between the tutor, — as Houcheon was called — and his sister*in-Iaw, the widow of the late Angus, probably regarding the management of the estates and tutory, to which she claimed a preferable title, in right of her son, Angus Dqw, she complained to her brother, Malcolm, the chief of Lewis ; who, in consequence, came to the Reay country, accom- panied by a number of chosen men, resolving to have his sister re- dressed, either by treaty or by force. He appears, however, not to have succeeded in his object, for he returned homeward in great diq)leasure, and in revenge laid waste Strathnaver, and a great part of the Breachat in Sutherland, in the Mackay's lands, besides driving off a great spoil of cattle. As soon as Houcheon Dow^ and his younger brother Neil Mackay, learnt this intelligence, they acquainted Robert, Earl of Sutherland, who immediately dispatched Alistair Ne-Shrem-Gormc (Alexander Murray of Cubin,) with a number of resolute men, to assist the Mackays. They pursued the islanders with great haste, and overtook them at a place in thQ 406 ROSS AND CROMARTY. heights of this parish, upon the marches between Ross and Suther- land The pursuing party at 6r8t attempted to recover the goods and cattle which had been carried off; but this being opposed by Macleod and his men, a furious battle ensued, in which great va^ lour was displayed on both sides. It was <^ long, furious, cruel, and doubtful," says Sir Robert Gordon in his *' Genealogical History of the Earldom of Sutherland," and was ^< rather despe* rate than resolute." At last, the Lewismen, with their leader, Malcolm Macleod, who was nicknamed GiU'CaUumrbeg-Macbhawanf were slain ; one man alone, who was sorely wounded, escaping to carry home the dismal tidings to Lewis, which he had scarcely delivered, when he espired. The place of the 6ght was thence- forward called Tuiteam-Tarbhach, which signifies the firiile /all or slaughter, A little to the east of the field of battle, there is a lonely unenclosed burial-ground, picturesquely situated on an ele- vated bank, where those who fell were interred ; its sequestered situation, its grey, moss-covered stones, and its nameless graves, all combine in increasing the natural solemnising influence of the scene. The period when this conflict occurred has not been ac- curately ascertained. Sir Robert Gordon says, ** In the time of Robert, Earl of Sutherland, son of Nicholas, the terrible battle of Tuttim-Tarvach was fought ;" — now, as *^ Robert succ^ded to the earldom, by the death of his father, in the year 1399," according to Sir Robert, the battle must have taken place either in the end of the fourteenth century, or the beginning of the fifteenth ; but from Sir Robert's not always being very particular in his dates, the year 1397 may be considered as about the time of this event. , From the fourteenth till the seventeenth century, there is no land-mark in the history of this parish. But about the middle of the latter century, the following incident occurred : In the month of April 1650, the celebrated Marquess of Montrose, in prosecu- tion of his chivalrous enterprize for placing Charles IL on the throne of his ancestors, arrived in Orkney, and, crossing the Pent- land Frith with about 1500 men, landed without opposition at the northern extremity of Caithness. He had calculated on collect- ing a considerable force in this country, but completely failed ; succeeding, however, in securing the passes of the Ord, leading into Sutherland, and possessing himself of the castle of Dunbeath. The Earl of Sutherland retired before him as be advanced, and Montrose reached Strath Oikell, but with a force of only 1200 men. KINCARDINE. 407 Lieutenant- Colonel Strachan^ who had hurried forward with a party of horse, while General Leslie was pressing on with 3000 foot It was resolved that the Earl should cross into Sutherland to intercept Montrose's retreat to the north, while Strachan ad- vanced with 230 horse, and 170 foot, in search of him. Under cover of some broom, they succeeded in surprising him at disad- vantage, on level ground, near a pass called Invercharron, on the borders of this parish, on Saturday, 27th April 1650, having di- verted his attention by the display of merely a small body of horse. Montrose immediately endeavoured to reach a wood and craggy hill at a short distance in his rear, with his infantry, but they were overtaken ; the Orkney men made but little resistance, and the Germans surrendered, but the few Scottish soldiers fought bravely, though in vain. Many gallant cavaliers were made prisoners : and when the day was irretrievably lost, the Marquess threw off his cloak bearing the star, and afterwards changed clothes with an ordinary Highland kem, that he might endeavour to effect his es- cape. Having swam across the Kyle, (an arm of the sea dividing this parish from Sutherland), he directed his flight up Strath Oikell, and lay for three days concealed amongst the wilds of Assynt ; but at length, exhausted with fatigue and hunger, he was discovered and apprehended by a Ross-shire chief — Neil Macleod of Assynt, who happened to be out with some of his tenants in search of him. Montrose discovered himself to this man, think- ing himself secure of protection, since Macleod had been once his own follower. His subsequent fate is too well known to require being mentioned here : and we shall conclude this article with the following extract from a modern historian of celebrity : *^ James Graham, Marquess of Montrose, died at the early age of 38, hav- ing acquired, during a short career of military glory, greater repu- tation than perhaps ever fell to the lot of any commander in an- cient or modern times, within the same compass of time." The ground where the battle was fought, and which lies in this parish, took its present name, Craigcaoineadhan, which may be translated the Rock of Lamentation, — firom the event of thatmemo- rable day. The ancient name of the place is now lost. Eminent Characters. — In a parish comparatively so remote as Kincardine, eminent characters can scarcely be expected : yet they are not entirely wanting. Mr Thomas Ross. — The historian Wodrow remarks, that, sub- sequent to the establishment of Episcopacy in 1662, there were 408 ROSS AND CROMARTY. but few PresbyteriaD clergymen remaining north of the Tay, and only two or three who laboured in the work of the ministry, in the shires of Ross and Cromarty. Amongst these he places " Mr Thomas Ross, minister at Kincardin," who, he says, ** having continued at his charge some time after the establishment of Pre- lacy, owed his leaving them to a meeting with Mr M*Gilligen.'** (Vol. iii. p. 437, 8vo edit.) Mr Ross's name also appears in the ^' roll of ministers who were non-conformists to Prelacy, and were banished, turned out from their parishes, or confined,'' as given in Wodrow ; (Vol. i. p. 329) ; though it is there erroneously placed in the presbytery of Dingwall, instead of that of Tain, and with- out the name of his parish prefixed. The same historian men- tions, that, in the summer of 1675, Mr John M^Gilligen, Mr Anderson, (of Cromarty,) Mr Frazer, (of Daviot, or Teviot, as he spells it,) and Mr Thomas Ross, ^' were very frequent, and much owned of the Lord in their work." On the 4th of November in this year Mr Ross was apprehended for ccHHfenticles, (as the field- meetings of the Covenanters were termed,) and imprisoned in Tain : Here he remained until the 9th of October 1677, when the council *^ appointed Mr Thomas Ross, who is prisoner in the tolbooth of Tayn, to be liberate, upon his finding caution to com- pear when called, upon the pain of 2000 roerks." It would ap- pear that Mr Ross died soon after his liberation from the ** tol- booth of Tayn," as there is no further mention made of him. He was minister at Tain for several years, having gone there about the year 1664. In the appendix to the ^^ Memoirs of the Rev. John Blackader," there is given a list of all the ministers who were confined to the Bass; and under the date <^ 1675" is inserted " Thomas Ross, minister of Kincardine (Tain), for conventicles. (Wodrow, Vol. ii. 393.)" But it is more than doubtful if Mr Ross * This was the Mr John M'Gilliglne, or M entitled " Memoirs of the Life of the Very Reverend Mr James Fraser of Brea, Minister of the Gospel at Culross, dedicated by the au- thor to the Very Reverend Mr Thomas Ross^ Minister at Kincar- dine in Boss" it is stated that, " by the dedication to Mr Thomas Bass, (a singularly pious minister in the north,) the author gave per- mission to him to publish jt ;" and that " the reason why Mr Tho- nuts Boss did not cause publish it, was, that at the time he receiv- ed it from Mr Fraser, he was in prison at Tayne, and died there in prison or soon thereafter ;" and in the publisher's address to the reader, there is the following : — ^^ Our copy, as you'll see by the preface" (as quoted above) ^^ is dedicated to the Reverend Mr Tliomas Ross, some time minister at Tayne, with a power to publish it or not as he pleased." «Mr Fraser, in the " dedication by the author to Mr Thomas Ross," (at p. 6,) expresses himself towards Mr Ross in lipguage glowing with gratitude and Christian friendship, and lets it appear from the terms he uses, that he con- sidered himself ^^ much bound unto him," and was anxious to '* kyth his gratitude" by something of that nature. Now this, coming from the pen of so eminent an individual as Fraser of Brea, is no small compliment to the worthy ^^ minister of Kincardine ;" and shows the high estimation in which he was held by his con- temporaries. One other notice of Mr Ross : In the Scottish Acts of Par- liament» (Vol. ix. p. 217, a. d. 1690,) there is an ^^ Act in fiivours of Christian Ross, relict of Andrew Fearne of Pitcal- lioDi anent her damages," which states, inter alia, that ^^ her husband in his lifetime helped to entertain Mr Thomas Ross, a Godly minister ; and that she entertained him and others of that degree, and some other distressed people passing to and fro, in her familie ; and that she was harassed, and persecuted, and informed against, with her twelve fatherless children, by the Episcopal minister of her parish, and compelled to flee in the mid- dle of the night during the winter of 1683-4, her property and com seized by the soldiers, and her familie scattered." Mr Ross, it appears, had occasionally preached to a small audience within her house; and for this offence, her parish minister, contrary to the remonstrances of Lord Seaforth, obtained from the Privy- council a warrant to a military officer to seize all her goods, ROSS AND CROMARTY. Dd 410 ROSS AND CROMARTY. attach the rents of her small estate, and imprison herself. The two former were executed with the utmost rigour, and herself ob- liged to fly, as is mentioned above, in her narrative to the Parlia- ment She continued in concealment in Sutherland until the year 1686, when, by the interest of friends, the Council allowed her to return home to Pitcallion, (or Pitculzean, as it is now spelt.) Dr Robertson ojKilteam, — Here, too, the name of the late Rev. Harry Robertson, D. D., minister of Kiltearn, is well entitled to a place, as connected with this parish by birth. Harry, eldest son of the Rev. Gilbert Robertson, minister of Kincardine, and Chris- tian Bain, daughter of the Rev. John Bain, minister of Ding- wall, (1716-1736,) was born at the manse of Kincardine, on the 2d of November 1748. Having been licensed by the presbytery of Tain in the year 1770, he was ordained and admitted to the parish of Clyne, 8th May 1771 ; and translated thence to Kilteam, on the 9th May 1776. He died at Kiltearn manse, 28th July 1815, in the 67th year of his age, and 45th of his ministry. Family of Ross. — The clan Ross, as far/l^k as tradition goes, were the proprietors and inhabitants of this district. They still re- tain three-fourths of the property of the parish, and are by much the most prevalent name in it. Vestiges of the an6ient resi- dence of their chiefs are to be seen in a beautiful field, between the church and the sea side. The field terminates in a steep bank hanging over the sea, called the Bank of the Gate, and at the bot- tom there is a spring of excellent water, which bears the name of the Ladles Well. The chief of the clan and his most powerful and confidential friends dwelt here ; as pasture for cattle, with fishing and hunting, the favourite employment of the Highlanders, could be easily had in the greatest variety. The chief of the Rosses is mentioned at a very remote period in the neighbourhood of St Duthus. This must have happened when he was invested with the power and jurisdiction of Thane, for the town, then a village; close by the sanctuary of St Duthus, still retains the name of that holy man in Gaelic, (Baile-Dhuthaich,) and in English it is cal- led Tain.* The ancient earldom of Ross was created by King Malcolm III, when he held a Parliament at Forfar about the middle of the eleventh century; in the year 1221, Ferquhard Ross, who founded the Abbey of Fearn, was possessor of the title, * Duthac or DuflTus was bishop of Ross iewp. Alexander II., and died in 1249 : he was of a noble family, and for his great piety was canonized, the 8th of March be- ing appointed as a festival day in honour of him. 4 KINCARDINE. . 411 and from his death, Id 1251, there is a regular succession of that surname till the death of William, Earl of Ross, in 1371, without male issue ; after which there were numerous claimants, and the title was possessed by individuals of different families, all claiming some right to hold it ; until finally, in 1478^ the earldom of Ross was annexed to the Crown ; by whom, at different periods, it was conferred on members of the royal family. The present representative of this ancient title, and of the chieftainship of the clan Ross, is Geoi^ Rossof Pitcalnie; whose ancestor, Monroe Ross of Pitcalnie, claimed the earldom in 1778^ as lineal male descendant of Hugh Ross of Rarichies, and first laird of Balnagown, a. d. 1370, brother to William, last Earl of Ross. The estates of Amat, where there is a dwelling-house, Corrimuillie, and Amatnatua in this pa- rish, belong to Pitcalnie. The principal branch of the family of Ross settled at Balnagown. The chief of the clan about the middle of the seventeenth century was David Ross, the lineal descendant and heir of the Earls of Ross. He married, in 1666, Lady Anne Stewart, youngest daugh- ter of James, third Earl of Moray, but died, without issue, 18th April 1711, when the chieftainship of the Rosses, in the Balna- gown family, became extinct Lady Anne, who was endowed no leas with the gifts of nature than with those of grace, survived till the 16th of August 1719. She bequeathed the sum of 3000 merks Scots, for the behoof of some ^^ indigent persons, fearing the Lord, in the county of Ross." The estates of Balnagown now descend- ed to Charles, second son of George, eleventh Lord Ross, as next heir* He was. bom 8th Februray 1667, and having early embraced the military profession, rose to the highest rank in that service. He had a principal command, and was particularly instrumental in obtaining great honour to his country over the King of France, in two bloody wars for the liberty of Europe, during the reign of Queen Mary the second, and William of Orange. In the reigns of Queen Anne and King George I., he was colonel of a regiment of dragoons, and was in five parliaments knight of the shire of Ross. In 1721, he was a member of the Secret Committee for the affairs of the South Sea Company, and died at Biith, in the 66th year of his age, 5th August 1732. His remains were brought down to Scotland, and interred in a stone coffin within the Abbey of Fearn, where there is a neat monument erected to his memory, with an inscription in Latin. Having no family himself, the Ho- nourable General Ross had entailed his properties upon the cbildrcn 412 KOSS AND CBOMABTT. of his sister^ the Honourable Grizel Ross, wife of Sir James Lock- hart of Carstairs, whose second son, Colonel Sir James Ross, accord- ingly succeeded. He enjoyed the estate of Balnagown till his death, in December 1760, when, by the provisions of his uncle's will, Cap- tain John Lockhart, his younger brother, obtained the property, and thereupon took the name of Ross in addition to his own. Cap- tain Lockhart Ross was the fifth son of Sir James Lockhart of Carstairs, Bart, and was born at Lockhart Hall, in the county of Lanark, on the 1 1th November 1721 ; and having manifested a predominant inclination for the sea, be entered the naval service in his fourteenth year. In 1756, he was posted, and advanced to the command of the Tartar frigate of 24 guns, with which, in the course of fifteen months, he captured, in the British channel, nine of the enemy's ships of war, several of them being of superior force. The last step of promotion he lived to attain in the navy was the rank of Vice- Admiral of the Blue, to which he was advanced on the 24th September 1787. By the death of his brother. Sir George Lockhart, in July 1778, the baronetcy of the family de* scended to him, and the estate of Carstairs having been sold in 1762, he adopted the designation of Balnagown. As an instance of his amiable character in private life, the following deserves particular mention : There being a total failure of all means of subsistence, in consequence of a severe frost in summer 1782, which was a fatal and distressing year to the peasantry in Ross-shire, and especially to the inhabitants of this parish. Sir John, with a liberality which does him the highest credit, understanding the lamentable situation of the poor people, sent to be distributed to the sufierers on his own estates, a season- able and bountiful supply of large quantities of pease, barley, flour, and potatoes ; to which noble beneficence many hundreds owed their lives. He also ordered his factor to give to his Highland tenants in Kincardine, who did not save as much as would sow their crofts, seed from his farms in the low country, where the failure was not nearly so great as in the high grounds and straths; and upon his return home at the conclusion of the war, he dis- counted one-third of the arrears of rent over the whole of his es- tates. Sir John Lockhart Ross, Bart, died at his seat of Balna- gown 9th June 1790, in the sixty-ninth year of his age, after a lin- gering and painful illness, which he bore with Christian fortitude and resignation. He was interred in the Ross aisle, forming the east end of the church of Fearn, (formefly the first abbacy in the KINCARDINE. 413 • country), which has been the burying-place of all the respectable families of the name of Ross for several centuries. By his spouse, Miss Elizabeth Baillie of Lfammingtoune, eldest daughter of Ro- bert Dundas of Arniston, Lord President of the Court of Session, (1760 — 1788), to whom he was married on the 6th September 1762, he left a family of five sons and three daughters ; and was succeeded in his title and estates by his eldest son, Sir Charles Ross, who for many years represented his native county in Parlia- ment, and died a Lieutenant- General in the army, and Colonel of the 86th Regiment of Foot.* Sir Charles Ross marrieil, first, Matilda- Theresa, a Countess of the Holy Roman Empire, being daughter and heir of General Count James Lockhart of Camwatfa, by whom he had a son, who died in childhood ; and a daughter, Matilda, who married, in 1812, Sir Thomas John Cochrane, Cap- tain R. N., and brother of Archibald ninth Earl of Dundonald ; she died in 1819, leaving two sons and two daughters. Sir Charles married, secondly, 15th April 1799, Lady Mary Fitzgerald, eldest daughter of William Robert, second Duke of Leinster, and left, with five daughters, an only son, born in January 1812, the pre- sent Baronet. Bonninton House, the beautiful residence of his amiable widow, Lady Mary Ross, and the home of all hospitable kindnesses, is situated in Lanarkshire. Janet Macleodj the Fasting Woman. — A remarkable instance of abstinence occurred, about the middle of last century, in this pa- rish. Janet Macleod, the person alluded to, was born about the year 1727 at Croick, in the heights of the parish of Kincardine, where her father, Donald Macleod, possessed a small farm. She continued healthy till she was fifteen years of age, when she had a severe epileptic fit ; after this she had an interval of health for four years, and then another fit, which continued a whole day and a night. A few days after, she was seized with a fever, which con- tinued with violence for several weeks, a£d from which she did not recover for some months. At this time she lost the use of her eyelids, so that she was under the necessity of keeping them open * fhe following notice of his character and death is engrossed in the session-re- eordsof the parish : — " General Sir Charles Ross of Balnagown, Baronet, principal heritor in this parish, died on Tuesday, the 8th day of February 1814, suddenly, and at Balnagown Castle, — a loss irreparable to the country at large, and to this pa- riah in particular. His many virtues as a husband, a parent, a master, a landlord, a patriot, and a friend, endeared him to all who had the honour of his acquaintance, and wiU embalm his memory on their hearts to the latest recollection. May the Almighty grant coniobition to his afflicted lady, and spare his amiable daughters and *-"- infiint ion to emulate his virtues.** 414 KOSS AND CROMARTY. with her fingers when she wished to look about her. In other re- spects, she continued in pretty good health, but she often spat large quantities of blood, and at the same time it flowed from her nose. This continued for several years, but at last it ceased ; and soon after she had another fit, and after that a fever, from which she recovered very slowly. Six weeks after the crisis, she stole out of the house unknown to h^r parents, who were busy in their harvest-work, and bound the sheaves of a ridge before she was observed ; but in the evening of that day, she took to bed, complaining much of her head, and from that time she never rose for five years, but was occasionally lifted out of bed. She seldom spoke a word, and took so little food, that it seemed insufficient to support a sucking infant ; even this small quantity was taken by compulsion ; and at last, about Whitsunday 1763, she totally refused every kind of food or drink* Her jaws now became so fast locked, that it was with the greatest difficulty her teeth could be opened a little, in order to admit a small quantity of gruel or whey ; but of this so much generally re- turned, that it was not certain that any had been swallowed. About this time, some water was given to her from a noted medicinal spring at Braemar, some of which it was attempted to make her swallow, but without effect; these attempts were continued, however, for three mornings, her throat being rubbed with the water, which ran from the corners of her mouth. On the third morning, during the operation, she cried out '^ give me some more water," and swallow* ed with ease all that remained in the bottle : she spoke no more in- telligibly for a year, though she continued to mutter some words, which her parents only understood, for fourteen days. She continu- ed to reject all kinds of food till July 1765. At this time, her sis- ter thought, that by some signs she made, she desired her jaws to be opened ; and this being done, not without violence, she called intelligibly for drink, ana drank with ease about an English pint of water. Her father asked her why she did not make some sign when she wanted drink ? To which she answered, " why should I when I have no desire?" It was now supposed that she had regained the faculty of speech, and her jaws were kept open for about three weeks, by means of a wedge ; but this was afterwards remov- ed. She still, however, continued sensible, and when her eye- lids were opened, knew everybody. By continuing attempts to force open her jaws, two of her under fore-teeth were driven out ; and of this opening her parents endeavoured to avail themselves, by KINCARDINE. - 415 puttiDg some thin DourishiDg drink into her mouth, but without effect, as it always returned by the corners. Sometimes they thrust a little dough of oatmeal through this gap of the teeth ; which she would retain a few seconds, and then return with some- thing like a straining to vomit, without a single particle being swallowed. Nor was the family sensible of anything like swal- lowing for four years, except the small draught of Braemar water, and the English pint of common water. In this state she was vi- sited, in the month of October 1767, by Dr Mackenzie, a physi- cian at New Tarbat ; who communicated, through his brother, the Right Honourable James Stewart Mackenzie, Lord Privy-Seal of Scotland, an account of her remarkable case to the Royal So- ciety, in the Journal of whose Transactions it may be found. He found her not at all emaciated ; her knees were bent, and the hamstrings so tight that her heels almost touched her but- tocks. She slept much, and was very quiet, and when awake, kept constantly whimpering, like a new-born weakly infant. She never could remain a moment on her back, but always fell to one side or the other; and her chin was put close to her breast, nor could it by force be moved backwards. In October 1772, five years after his first visit, the doctor was induced to pay her a se- cond, by hearing that she was recovering, and had begun to eat and drink. The account given him was most extraordinary;— her parents one day returning from their country labour, having left their daughter Janet fixed to the bed as usual, were greatly surprised to see her sitting on her hams, on the side of the house opposite to her bed- place, spinning with her mother's distaff. All the food she took at that time, was only a little oat or barley cake, crumbled in the palm of her hand, as if to feed a chicken ; she put little crumbs of this into the gap of her teeth, rolled them about for some time in her mouth, and then sucked out of the palm of her hand a small quantity of water, whey, or milk. This was only once or twice a-day, and even that by compulsion. She never attempted to speak ; her jaws were fast locked, and her eyes shut. On opening her eyelids, the balls were found to be turned up under the edge of the os/rontis ; her countenance was ghastly, and her whole person emaciated. She seemed sensible and trac- table in everything except taking food. This she did with the ut- most reluctance, and even cried before she yielded. The great change to the worse in her looks, Dr Mackenzie attributed to her spinning flax on the distaff, which exhausted too much of the sa- 416 ROSS AND CROMARTY. livdi and, therefore, he recommended to her parents to confine her totally to the spinning of wool. She was visited again, in the year 1775, and found to be greatly improved in her looks, as well as in strength. Her food was also increased considerably in quan- tity, though even then she did not take more than would be suf- ficient to sustain an infant of two years of age. This extraordinary woman continued to live to ap advanced pe- riod of lite, taking no nourishment except a little of the thinnest gruel, which she received through the aperture which had been made by breaking two of her fore-teeth for the purpose of feeding her. She died in the year 1796, in the seventieth year of her age. There is a particular description of her case in the Journal of Philosophical Transactions, Vol. Ixvii., Gentleman's Magazine for 1778, p. 22, Encyclopaedia Britannica, and Pennant's Tour in Scotland ; from which, as well as from authentic private sources of information, the above account is taken. Land'Owners. — The landed proprietors of this parish, who are all non-resident, are as follows : Sir Charles W. A. Ross, Bart of Balnagown ; Hugh A. J. Munro, Esq. of Novar ; John Hay Mackenzie, Esq. of Cromartie ; George Ross, Esq. of Pitcalnie, the chief of the Rosses ; William Robertson, Esq of Kindeace ; His Grace the Duke of Sutherland ; Robert Ross, Esq. of Inver- carron ; and Sir Hugh Munro, Bart, of FouUs. The subjoined table shows the valuation of the parish in 1840. Names of Proprietors. Names of Lands. Ross of Balnagown, For all his lands in the parish, Munro of Novar, \ C"^'"°' \' ^ ^^' ' ^ch- * ( nagart, L.lOO, Mackenzie of Cromartie, Dunie-larn, Ross of Pitcalnie, i ^°J*^ and CorrimuiUie, L.lOO ' ( Amatnatua, L.oo, Robertson of Kindeaee, Greenyards and Glencali^ze, Duke of Sutherland, 5 ^^^^ff and Sdlachy, L.35, ( Dibidaic, L.d4, Garvary,L.34, Ross of Invercarron, Invercarron and Craigs, Munro of Foulis, Corryyalagan, Total valuation, L.1852 5 As an instance of the change which a period of nearly a century makes in the ownership of landed estates, — and of numerous small properties becoming merged in a few large ones, — the names of the proprietors and their lands, in the parish of Kincardine, with the valuation of each property, in the year 1765, is here given : Valuation of each Property. L.d40 Scots. d02 15 150 135 106 104 96 16 10 KINCARDINE* 417 In the County of Ross. Captain John Ross of Baloagown, for his knds, L.(MO Scots. William Ross of Innercharron, for his lands, • 204 Charles Ross of Culrain, for his lands and interest, 202 15 Mrs Naomi Dunbar, alias Ross, widow of Alexander Ross of Pitcalny, as liferentrix of Amat and CorwUUe, - - . 100 Sir Harry Munro of Foulis, for his lands, 66 10 Robert Monro of Easter Achnagart, for his lands, 50 David Ross of Innerchasly, for his lands, - 85 [Mr Ross, who was an advocate, was ruling elder from the Presbytery of Tain to the General Assembly, from 1763 to 1769 inclusive.] Captain James Cuthbert of Milncraig, for his lands, 34 Simon Ross of Gladeficld. for Gladefield, - 89 In the county of Cromarty. Simon Ross of Gladefield, for Dunie, - 70 Walter Ross of Wester- Greenyard, for his lands, 60 Captain John Tarbes of New, or the factor for the time on the annexed estate of Cromartie, for the lands of Drumvaich, - - - 53 6 8 Roderick Maclcod of CadboU, for the lands of Amat- ni-Eglise, - - - 35 Total valuation, L. 1889 U 8 The real rent of the parish, which is jBuctuating, may be esti- mated at L.4500 or L.5000 Sterling per annum. Parochial Registers^ S^c. — The register of baptisms and mar- riages commences about forty-three years ago, the date of the ear- liest entry being August 21, 1797, since which period it has been regularly kept. It consists of two volumes ; the dates of births have not been kept in the first, but commence with the se- cond volume, in May 1804. The minutes of the kirk-session of Kincardine commence on the 2lst of May 1804, when the late incumbent, Mr Macbean, was admitted, previous to which no session records exist. But they have been very irregularly kept ever since then ; entries (anything but voluminous,) being made only occasionally, and at intervals of sometimes two and three years. They have been regularly kept only since the induction of the present incumbent in 1821. There is no register of deaths or burials. The lay members of session are six in number, all regu- larly ordained as elders ; and the parochial schoolmaster is at pre- sent session-clerk. Antiquities, — There are several of those round towers called dunes in this parish ; regarding the origin of which, it were vain to inquire, as there have been so many conflicting opinions upon the subject, — some considering them the workmanship of Celtic tribes, while others maintain that they were erected by the Danes or Norwegians ; but, as Dr MaccuUoch remarks» ^^ it is indifferent 418 ROSS AND CROMARTY. whether we ascribe the structures in question to the Picts or the Scandinavians, as there seems little reason to doubt that these were radically one and the same people/' None of these dunes or burghs exist in a perfect form, for they offered too tempting a col- lection of stones for modern buildings to be left unmolested ; they were not always placed on elevated sites, though in general they command an extensive view, and were often built in sight of one another. In the churchyard, there is a stone about five feet in length and two in breadth and thickness ; it is hollow, and divided into two cells, one considerably larger than the other. The ends and one of the sides are covered with carved figures and hierogly- phics ; an imperial crown, and a man on horseback in the act of darting a lance or javelin, as also what appears to be a camel, are still plainly distinguishable. It is probable that it is the half of a sarcophagus or stone-cofiin ; and tradition describes it as the tomb of a prince of Loellin, who died of his wounds in the neighbour- hood, and had his remains deposited there. This sculptured stone was examined several years ago by that celebrated antiquary, Dr Samuel Hibbert, who took a copy of the inscription upon it There are also several of those circles of stone so frequently mentioned by Ossian, which were sacred to Loda, the favourite deity of the ancient Scandinavians. In building a new wall round the church-yard two years ago, there was a small coin of the reign of James VI. discovered, which is now in the possession of the writer. It is of silver, and about the size of a sixpence. The inscription on the obverse, round the royal arms of Scotland, is *^ Jacob : 6. d. g. r. sco :" and on the reverse, *' oppid : bdinb :" surrounding a thistle, surmounted by a crown. •• The writer also lately found an antique seal, upon which was engraved a lion rampant^ the arms of the Rosses. From the place where it was discovered, it is plain that it must have Jain there for many years ; and, indeed, the rudeness of its construction testifies its antiquity. III. — Population. The earliest census of the population of this parish, so far as is now known, is that procured by Dr Webster iu the year 1755; the number then being 1743. In 1 774, according to the author of the former Statistical Account, the population was 'upwards of 2000 above seven years of age. But by returns made to Sir John Sinclair, KINCARDIMB. 419 10 1790, there were not above 1600 examinable persons in the pa- rish. The chief cause of this great decrease in the space of six- teen years was, that, in 1782, many were reduced to poverty by the loss of their cattle, and the almost total failure of the crop of that year, which occasioned such accumulated distress, that they were obliged to remove with their families, and settle* in the low country as day-labourers or domestic servants. Amount of population by cenfus 1801, . 1865 1811, , I666« 1821, . 1811 1831, . 1887 Families employed in agriculture in 1881, . 296 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, . 48 All fiunilies otherwise employed, .... 98 Total number of families, 442 Tlie population of the parish since the last census has increased to 2000. No nobility reside within the bounds of this parish, but many resort thither during the shooting season, and remain for two or three months. There are several respectable farmers, with good habitable houses and commodious squares ; and also two gentle- men who are large sheep-farmers, viz. Donald Macleod, Esqi Gladefield House, and Ebenezer Mackay, Esq. Invercarron, House, who farms the estate of Invercarron, (the proprietor being in India.) As a proof of the healthiness of the climate, it may be men- tioned, that there is at present residing at Culrain, in this parish, an old pensioner of the name of Donald Ross, who entered the Slst, or Royal North British Regiment of Fusileers, in the year 1760, during the reign of King George IL, being then twenty years of age. Though he completed his hundredth year last spring, this hoary veteran still enjoys pretty good health. There are 2 insane, (1 occasionally); 2 fatuous, and also deaf and dumb, (a brother and sister) ; 1 blind, (a woman) ; and 2 deaf and dumb, (brothers.) Language. — The language generally spoken and understood is the Gaelic ; and though most of the rising generation understand English also, yet the Graelic can scarcely be said to have lost ground within the last forty years ; as a proof of which, it may be mentioned, that, during the summer months, while the day is long, • The decrease in the population in 1811 was accounted for by the ^stem which had been adopted, some time before, by proprietors, of turning several small farms into one, and depopulating whole straths for the purpose of raising sheep. 420 BOSS AND CROMARTY. tbere are two Gaelic discourses and one English every Sunday, and the Catechumens are always examined in that language. The parish is well supplied with Gaelic Bibles and Psalm-books, every family in it being possessed of at least one copy. Character^ §*c.— The people here are generally moral in their lives, and, when occasion requires, of unremitting industry. In common with most Highlanders, they are hospitable, of quick parts, great agility, inquisitive and fond of information, and extremely patient under hunger, cold, and other distresses from which their southern neighbours would shrink. They still retain a sacred re- gard for the clan or family they are sprung from ; but it must be al- lowed that this feeling is on the decline. The tale, the song, and the dance do not, as in days of yore, entertain the dreary winter nights. They are regular in their attendance on Divine worship ; and in many instances, think nothing of coming ten or twelve miles to the parish church every Sabbath. Poaching^ Sfc. — Poaching and smuggling may be said to be ex- tinct in this district ; though these crimes were once very preva- lent, and had so corrupted by their influence the moral character of the people, that it was almost impossible to persuade them of their guilt. IV. — Industry. Fisheries. — ^There are considerable salmon-fisheries carried on, chiefly with the coble and net, on the rivers Oidkell^ and Carron. They belong to the Duke of Sutherland, who purchased all the fishings in this quarter, a few years ago. The Carron is an excel- lent river for angling. The smaller streams and lochs, of which last there are a great number in the parish, supply beautiful trout ; one in particular — Loch Chorrh, in a sequestered situation— con- tains trouts of six pounds weight. Flounders are caught in abundance below the church of Kincardine at ebb-tide. In the former Statis- tical Account, it is related that, during the great scarcity of 17d3» great shoals of that species offish, known in England by the name of white bait, came up ; and in such astonishing quantities, as to contribute very much to the support of many families in this and the neighbouring county, in that season of distress. There was formerly a yair or stake-net, belonging to Balnagown, in which prawns, small rock and ware cod, gurnard, turbot, and paddles were caught, and occasionally sturgeon ; of which last there was one of the enormous size of 13^ feet, taken some years ago. The country people think sturgeon of service to their cattle, in KINCARDINE. 421 certain diseases^ and were used to carry it home, and preserve it in their houses. But there are no yairs allowed in the Frith now. As a proof of the antiquity of salmon-fishing in this pa- rish, the following is deserving of record : There is a charter granted by " William, Earl of Ross, Lord of Skie, to his well-be- loved brother, Hugh Ross of Rarichies," (who was afterwards styled of Balnagown, being the first laird thereof of that name,) '^ of thelandsof Kilmachalmackin Strathockell, and Carbisdile in Strathcarron, reserving the salmon-fishing of the Kyi of Ockell to the said Erie and his aires,^' dated before witnesses '^ Att Ding- wel, 4 of Febrie 1370." — (Ancient Charter), and Sir Donald His of Lochalsh, '^ disponed on 3 Novemr 1515, to Hector Munro, of Foulis, the salmon-fishing of the Kyle of Ockell." Sheep-f arming. — Sheep-farming was introduced into this parish, and the neighbouring one of Creich, by Sir John Lockhart Ross of Balnagown, in order to employ his Highland tenants ; and he had the erection of a village in contemplation. But being called to stand forth as a defender of his country's rights, and his sheep falling under bad management, he sold off his stock ; and at his return home, finding himself in the decline of life, he dropped his favourite idea. Since that period, however, sheep have been intro- duced in large numbers, and there are at present^nearly 30,000 fleeces of wool shorn annually ; but the system of turning whole straths, where formerly peaceful cottages were to be seen, into sheep-walks, is becoming too prevalent; and is productive of the worst consequences, for every succeeding summer sends the finest of our peasantry to a foreign shore, there to seek those means of subsistence which are denied them in their father-land. These evil consequences have not as yet, we are happy^to say, been-'much felt in this parish. Advantages. — There are few places better adapted for a manu- facturing village than Kincardine. Situated in the near neighbour- hood of two great corn counties, it has the advantage of water- carriage, and a choice of safe harbours for vessels of fifty tons bur- then. It lies open to several very populous districts, and were manufactures once established it would be resorted to by many. The Highland boys and girls are, in the summer and harvest sea- sons, employed in herding cattle ; and as the range of pasture is generally extensive, while tending their cattle, they might earn as much by knitting stockings as their parents and full-grown sisters at home, by the constant turning of the lint-wheel. 422 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Navigation. — No ships or vessels of any description belong to the parish ; but several vessels trade to Bonar, of from thirty to sixty tons burthen, and occasionally some of a larger size, though these last cannot come up to the bridge, owing to the shallowness of the channel. They import coals, lime, meal, salt, &c. and ex- port wood, oak bark, corn, wool, and salmon. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Cammunieationf ^c. — There is no market-town in the parish ; the nearest is Tain, which is thirteen miles distant from the church of Kincardine. But the means of communica- tion are ample : there is a post-office at Bonar Bridge in this parish, and a daily post. The mail is brought from Tain in a commo- dious double-seated gig, capable of containing four passengers, which arrives at the Balnagown Arms Inn, Ardgay, every morning at nine o'clock, and is despatched at five in the afternoon. The mail-coach used to drive round by Bonar, but since May 1830, it has crossed the frith at the Meikle Ferry, which is three miles on this side of Tain. This ferry, from the shoals in the channel, and its exposure to sudden squalls from the hills, is considered one of the most dangerous and inconvenient in the north ; and many lives have been lost in crossing it. To avoid this ferry, the Parliamen- tary Commissioners for Highland Roads and Bridges, in the year 1812, built an iron bridge at Bonar, across a narrow part of the Dornoch Frith (where previously there had been a ferry), at an expense of L. 14, 000. Bonar Bridge consists of three arches, — one of cast-iron 150 feet in span, and two stone arches of 50 and 60 feet respectively. The iron arch is on the Sutherland side, and the stone arches on this side. The fabric is as strong as it is beautiful, for the pillars have repeatedly withstood uninjured the shocks of united masses of ice and timber, and the collision of small vessels driven against them by the tide. There is a good stone pier at Bonar, which was erected a few years ago by an enterprising individual in the parish, Mr Ross of the Balnagown Arms Inn, solely at his own expense. It is chiefly used for shipping timber, and landing coals, lime, &c. or whatever cargo the few vessels which occasionally come up the Frith may contain. A good many fishing-boats come during the summer season. 'J'he parish is not blessed with the convenience of good roads ; for, with the exception of the road from the church of Kincardine to Ardgay, Bonar, and a few miles to Gladefield and Invercarron KINCARDINE. 423 Houses, as also that which goes to Croick church, thirteen miles distant, the rest of the parish, for upwards of thirty miles, is totally destitute of what may be called roads ; the only access to these re- mote districts, except on Highland ponies, being by the excellent county road on the Sutherland side, which skirts the Kyle, the di- vision betwixt the counties, to the extremity of Kincardine, where it marches with Assynt. The road to Croick winds through a beau- tiful yale, along the banks of the river Carron passing Braelangwell Lodge, the picturesque summer residence of Sir Charles Ross of Balnagown, and Amat Cottage, the residence of Mr Ross of Pit- calnie. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated within a mile of the eastern extremity of the parish : its situation is therefore ex- ceedingly inconvenient for the bulk of the population, its distance from the western extremity being no less than thirty-four miles. It was built in 1799, and affords accommodation for 600 persons ; but it is too small for the congregation that usually attend. It is in contemplation, however, to add a wing : but a new edifice would be found cheaper in the end, as the present one is much decayed, and the timber becoming rotten. Its length is 68 feet 6 inches, its breadth 20 feet, and its height 17 feet. There is a large and well-toned bell attached to the church, which was presented to the parish by Admiral Sir John Lockhart Ross. It was a good deal injured by fire.* The sittings, in the church have been divided by the heritors according to their valued rents, and the tenants on their estates have free access to them. There are no seat-rents exacted. The manse consists of two erections : — the older part was built in 1769; and, in 1827, it was repaired and additions made to it, • The following inscription, which was written by Mr Galh'e, then minisU'r of Kincardine, is on a marble tablet, under the belfry, and within the church :— « This Bell, captured in a French Ship of War Of 74 Guniy waa gifted By Adzmral Sir John Ross of Balnagown, Bart, In the year 1778, To the Parish of Kincardine.** '* When Britain*8 navies did a world control. And spread her empire to the farthest pole ; High stood our hero in the rolls of fame, And Lockhart then became a deathliss name. This bell no more shall witness blood or gore. Nor shall his voice mix with the caimon's roar ; But to Kincardine by the hero given, Shall call the sinner to the peace of heaven.'* 424 R08S AND CROMARTY. part of the former building being thrown down* Its shape is that of a cross, the old house being in the centre. The minister's glebe contains about 6 Scotch acres, and has been valued at L.15 per annum. The stipend is 17 chalders : at least that quantity was awarded by the last augmentation, which took place in the year 1825 ; but from the state of the teinds at present there is a very con- siderable deficiency in that amount. The stipend of KincardinSf in March 1710, was " four chalders victual, and four hundred merks money, yearlie ;" in 1741, during Mr David Ross's incum- bency, L.559, 6s. 8d. Scots ; in 1770, during Mr Gilbert Robertson's incumbency, it was augmented to L. 840 Scots, (or L.70 Sterling). In 1791, Mr Andrew Gallie, minister, received an augmentation of 4 chalders victual, one Acts of Assembly for that year, we find the following mention made of him, ^^ Reference to the Commission for planting vacant kirks in the north, anent Mr Hector Fraser^ probationer, having the Irish language, his going to the bounds of the Presbytery of Ross." After being ten years in Kincardine, Mr Fraser was transported to the neighbouring parish of Eddertoun, 4th May 1709, where he died on the 17th May 1729. 8. Mr Robert Munro, brother to Mr Hugh Munro, successively minister of Tarbat (1699—1701), and Tain (1701—1744). He had studied at the University of St Andrews, and was licensed to preach by the presbytery of Tain, 1st December 1708 ; he was ordained and admitted '* minister of Kincarden" on the 29th of March 171 1, by Mr Daniel Macgilligin of Kilmuir-Easter. The Rev. Joseph Munro, minister of Eddertoun from 1742 to 1785, Was his son, and was born in the year 1714. Mr Robert Munro died, after a ministry of nearly thirty years, on the 10th of February 1741 ; and was succeeded by 9. Mr David Ro88f nephew to Mr David Ross, minister of Tar- bat (1707 — 1748), who was parochial schoolmaster of Nigg and Tarbat successively ; to the latter of which he was appointed in 1732. Having received ^* an unanimous call from the heritors and elders of the parish of Kincarden," Mr Ross was ordained and admitted minister there on the 7th April 1742; but died on the 10th of May following. * 10. Mr Gilbert Robertson. — After studying and taking the usual degrees at a Scotch University, Mr Robertson became ^^ itinerant tutor to Sir Robert Munro of Foulis's eldest son," (afterwards Sir Harry Munro), and went with him to the academy of the cele- brated Dr Philip Doddridge at Northampton in England, where he attended the divinity lectures delivered by Dr Doddridge, and received license and ordination from a class of English dissenters in that town and neighbourhood, Dr Doddridge being moderator. On his return home, he resided at Limlair, in the parish of Kiltearn ; and in 1740, received a presbyterial call to the church and parish of Dingwall, which was, however, rejected by the Commission of As- sembly, who declared their dissatisfaction with the presbytery, and appointed the moderator to write them a letter to that effect. His admission to Kincardine, which took place 3lst August 1742, was a very harmonious one, — the petition for him having been sigtied by the whole parish. After an eminently useful ministry of thirty- one years, Mr Robertson died on the 17th of March 1774. 1 1. Mr Andrew Gallic^ who succeeded, was ordained at Nigg KINCARDINE. 42T by Mr John Sutherland of Tain, 27th July 1756, to the mission of . On the 6th September 1758, he was admitted to the parish of Laggan, in the presbytery of Abertarff; and transported to Kincardine, Uth October 1774. Mr Galliedied on the 15th of May 1808^ in the twenty-ninth year of his ministry here. 12. Mr Alexander Madean^ who was schoolmaster of Cromarty, was ordained and admitted to this parish, 25th April 1804. He died on the 21st of August 1820 ; his successor was Id* Mr Hector Allans the present incumbent, who is the thir- teenth '^ minister of Kincardine" since the Reformation. Mr Allan was ordained to the mission of Fort- William, in Lochaber, in June 1819 ; and, having ** received an unanimous call from the heri- tors, elders, and heads of families in the parish of Kincardine," was admitted minister there on the 12th of April 1821. Government Church at Croick, — There is a Government church situated at Croick, in this parish. The church and manse of this place,which were completed on the 13th June 1827, are in a seques- tered valley, about twelve miles from Bonar Bridge. Lady Mary Ross of Balnagown granted ground for a glebe and garden, the extent of which is 6 acres, 3 roods, and 39 falls Scotch land mea- sure. The garden has been cultivated and neatly laid out, and the glebe has also been enclosed and improved. There were two places of worship besides the parish church, previous to the erection of the Parliamentary church ; these were twelve miles apart, one (at Ochto), being fourteen miles from the parish church, and the other (at Amat), twelve miles. A missionary officiated at them once a month, or once in six weeks, as circumstances permitted ; his residence was, till lately, in this parish. The proportion of the population attached to Croick is 458y the average congregation 200. A fifth part of the inhabitants of the district are shepherds, and the remainder small tenants or cottars. They are generally a devout people, and there has been only one instance of theft known amongst them since the induction of the minister. There is one school, supported by the minister and people. About 35 children attend this school at present, the greater proportion of whom can read English and Gaelic, write and cipher. The first minister appointed to the Parliamentary church of Croick, was Mr Robert Williamson^ who was ordained and admit- ted there, on the 25th September 1828 ; and by act of Assembly 1833, " anent Parliamentary Churches and Ministers," he became a member of the presbytery of Tain, and had his name added to the roll on the 25th September 1833. In 1840, Mr Williamsoa 428 UOSS AND CROMARTY. was appointed minister of St Andrews Church, Pictou, Nova Sco- tia. This church is at present vacant Mission in the heights of the Parish. — The mission of RosehalI> which is partly situated in this parish and partly in that of Creich, was established by the Committee of the General Assembly for Tnanaging the Royal Bounty, about tU^ middle of last ceqtary : it extends over a space about twenty-three miles in lengtb> and fifteen in breadth, and consists of two glens and a long strath ; th^ glens are in the west part of the mission, and are separated by a lofty Kill ; the river Oikell runs through the strath, whence it is called Strath Oikell. The population is about 1100, and is much scattered, particu- larly in the glens, which are chiefly inhabited by shepherds ; the bulk of the people are located in small hamlets or farms on both sides of the strath. They are all of the Established Church. Their moral and religious principles are in general excellent, and the Sabbath is well- observed ; they labour under great deficiency of the means of education — ^an evil which the people themselves strongly feel, and are most anxious to have remedied. The jnissionary possesses a dwelling-house, cow-house, and garden ; the people supply him with fuel, and with provender for ^ cow in winter. The salary was originally L. 90 from the Com- ' inittee, and L. 7 additional from the people | but it is now L. 60 per annum ; and the Duke of Sutherland gives L. 5 more, as an equivalent for the deficiency of accommodation. There is a place of worship at Rosehall, which wqs repair^ in 1832; and the missionary preaches at Ochto, and BailephuiU^ (the hamlet of the pool), in Glen-Oikell, which are both on the Kincardine side of the Kyle ; but there is no church at either of these places. Before the erection of the Parliamentary Churcli at Croick, there were three regular preaching stations, viz. Amai and Ochto in Kincardine, and Innis^na-lin^ (the island or plain of the nets,) in Creich, at which the missionary was obliged to offi- ciate in regular rotation; his residence was at Achnahuagh^ (the field of the graves,) in this parish. The church at Rosehall can accommodate about 300, but is usually attended by 100 more. At Ochto nearly the same number attend, but not so many at Bailephuill. The bulk of the people are within six or seven miles of the church, and about the same distance from Ochto. Baile- phuill is about seven miles west from Rosehall, but even that sta** tion is eight or nine miles from the most remote houses in the KINCARDINE. 429 ^rest end of the miseion. In dry weather the access to public worship is easy, but generally very diflBcult in winter. Baptism is regularly sought and administered ; and the com* ttdunion is held biennially. A shilling for every sitter is the nomi- nal teniy and not easily collected. The collections, averaging 28. 6d. weekly, are distributed annually among the poor. The principal heritor is Sir Charles Ross of Balnagowh ; the olberd are Lord Cranstoun, Mr Munro of Novar, and the Duke of Sutherland* Rosehall mission-house is thirteen miles from the church of Kincardine } Ochto is about the same distance, and Bailephuill twenty-one miles. Namei ^f Missionary Ministers. — 1. Hugh Rose, ordained first <* Missionary minister in the heights of the parishes of Kimttlrdine and Creich, 15th April 1757.'' He was translafed to Creicb^t26th September 1759; and to Tain, 27th June 1770, %here he died, 2dd September 1774. — 2. George Rainy, after a vacancy of six years, was ordained here 8th May 1766; he was translated to Creieh in 1770, and died in the year 1811. *-*3b John Matheson, ordained 2d October 1771 ; translated to KjltiQuiN Easter, 22d September 1775, and died 20th April 1814. —4. John Ross, ordained here in 1776 ; translated to Logie- Easter, 22d September 1778, and to Rosskeen, 16th June 1813, where he died, 8th February 1824, in the 74th year of his age. ^ — 5. Thomas Urquhart, ordained 1779, translated to Rosskeen, 1st September 1783 ; and died 16th May 1812.— 6. Robert Munro, ordained in 1783; translated to the mission of Ullapool in 1788, and died there.^-7. William Simson, ordained here in 1790, after a vacancy of two years. He was translated to the Oaelio chapel. Paisley, in 1796, and to Feam, 7th July 1802; where he died I7th August 1808w — 8. John Mackenzie, ordained 24th May 1797, and translated to Eddrachillis, 6th April 1803^ where he died 14th March 1837, in the 83d year of his age. — 9. Alexander Macleod, ordained in 1803, transported to the Gaelic chapel, Cifomarty, in 1809, where he died 21st June 1821. — 10. Thomas Munro, ordained in 1810, translated to Kiltearn 27th Jude 1816, present minister there. — 11. Lewis Rose, ordained in 1817, translated to Nigg, 24th September 1818 ; and to Duke Street Church, Glasgow, 21st January 1836. — 12. Hugh Macleod, ordained in 1819, appointed to Pictou, Nova Sco- tia in 1821: and is since dead.— 13. William Robertson, or- 430 ROSS AND CROMAUTV. dained after a vacancy of two years, 19th June 1823. Died in the mission in May 1829. — 14. Finlay Macpherson, ordained here in 1830, translated to Tobermory in 1833; and to Kil- brandon 8d May 1838. — 15. John Downie Kennedy, son of the late Rev. Neil Kennedy, minister of Logie-Easter, fifteenth and present missionary minister of RosehalL He was appointed to the mission after it had been vacant eighteen months, in Sep- tember 1835, and was ordained there on the 20th of January 1836. Catechist. — There is one catechist in this parish employed by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, from whom he re- ceives a salary of L.7, 10s. per annum. This class of religious instructors are well calculated to be useful to the young, as well as to the more advanced parishioners, by examinations on the questions of the Shorter Catechism, and by their familiar conver- sational explanation of the same. The office of catechist has been established here for upwards of a century, — for as far back as the year 1730, we find ^' Donald Ross continued catechist in the pa- rish of Kincardine, with a salary of L.8 Sterling." (Presb. Re- cords of Tain, Vol. iv.) Donald Ross was " catechist of Kincar- dine" in 1770. (Vol. x.) The present catechist is a venerable and intelligent man in the seventy-seventh year of his age. There is not a Dissenter of any description resident in this pa- rish, and Divine service is always very well attended. The number of communicants here is from 70 to 80, of whom 29 are male heads of families. The average amount of church collections yearly for religious and charitable objects is from L. 30 to L.35. Such collections in a parish which has not a single resident proprietor, shows what may be done by the influence of a good understanding be- tween a philanthropic pastor and his flock. The collections, though rather under the usual average this season, ^^ for religious and benevolent purposes," are as follows : For the Jews, Ij.8^ 86. ; India mission, L.4, 10s.; Church Extension, L.4, 4s.; Assembly schools, L.3, 5s. ; Colonial Society, L.3, 15s.; Inverness Infir- mary, L.5 ; total, L. 29, 2s. Education. — There are eight schools in this parish, which are all well attended. The parochial school is situated near the parish church, and is a comfortable dwelling-house. Besides the school room, it contains four apartments for the accommodation of the schoolmaster. The salary is the maximum, which, with an allow- KINCARDINE. 431 ance for garden of L.2, 2s. D^d., makes L.36, 7s. l|d. The school- fees scarcely amount to L. 5 annually. The average number of scholars attending may be about 60, but in winter they exceed 100. The branches of instruction taught are reading, writing, Latin, arithmetic, and mathematics. Amongst those who have held the situation of parochial schoolmaster of Kincardine, since its establishment, which took place a century ago, the following de- serve to be mentioned : James Dallas, minister of Contin 1793 — 1825; David Garment, who was schoolmaster from 1789 to 1790, with a salary of L..5, 6s. 8d., present minister of Rosskeen ; George Winehouse, from 1803 to 1805, present minister of Auchterhouse, in the presbytery of Dundee; Alexander Ross, from 1822 to 1829, in which latter year he was ordained by the late Dr Mackintosh of Tain, to the ^^ Gaelic and English congregation at Dundas in Upper Canada,'' (now Aldborough, presbytery oT To- ronto;) Charles Laing, from 1829, till his death, which took place at Aberdeen, while attending the divinity classes there in 1833; and the present " schoolmaster of Kincardine," Henry Macleod, who was appointed in 1833. There is a school at Strathcarron supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, who give a salary of L. 15 per annum. There is also a female school taught on the se- cond patent of the same society, with a salary of L.5. Besides these endowed schools there are five through different parts of the parish, which are supported entirely by individual subscription. There are five additional schools required besides the above num- ber ; as in several populous districts the children are without the benefits of any education whatever. Literature. — There was a parochial library established here in 1823, intended principally as a Sabbath school library ; the works contained in it are chiefly. Christian biography, accounts of mis- sions, and tracts. There was a reading-club also established lately, which pro- mises to succeed well. The secretary purchases annually works of travels, biography, and general literature, and each member has them for about three weeks : at the end of the year, they are sold amongst the subscribers. The annual subscription is considerably less than a guinea ; the number of subscribers at present amounts to sixteen. Savings Bank, — A Savings Bank was established this year in Tain, and is named '^ the National Security Savings Bank of 432 IIOSS AND CHOMAllTY. Easter Ross." The minister of Kincardine is one of the mana- gers. Tlie lowest deposit is fixed at 2s. 6d., and the highest in one year at L. 30 ; the^ rate of interest being L. 3, 6s. 8d. per cent, per annum. It is impossible as yet to say how this useful insti- tution will succeed. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of individuals who re- ceive parochial aid is 75, and the average sum allotted to each per annum is 5s. 6d. The amount of contributions for their irt3^ lief, arising from church collections, for the year ending 24th No- vember 1839, was L. 20, 2s. 2^. There is a sum of L. 5 Ster- ling, given annually for the poor of this parish by Lady Mary Ross of Balnagown. Sir Charles Ross of Balnagown, Mr Mac- kenzie of Cromartie, and the Sutherland femily are also mind- ful of the poor. To the daily and constant liberality and sym- pathy ministered to the needy by the benevolent fatniiies at Invercarron and Gladefield^ this extensive parish is under the deepest obligations, k& well as to other resident farmers and neigh^ hours ; although the evils of non-residence are at the same time deeply felt in many of its districts. Fair. — There is one public fair held in this parish, which is call- ed ^^ Feille-Edeichan ;" or the market of the quartz-stone. It takes place in the last week of November, and sometimes on the first week of December ; and continues for three days. There is com- monly a fine show of Highland cattle ; and quantities of cheese and butter, as well as merchandise, are to be had at it* Inn. — The only licensed inn in the parish is situated at Ardgay, and is conducted in an exceedingly orderly and respectable manner. Fuel. — The principal fuel used by the lower classes is peats, turf, and brushwood. English coals are always used by the more wealthy portion of the inhabitants. They come by sea to Bonar, and are sold at 176. per ton. Miscellaneous Observations. The more striking variations betwixt the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Ac-* 6ount, consist chiefly in the improved state of agriculture^ and the * Id the '< Scotdsh Acts of Parliament,** folio edit. 182Q» (Vol. viii. p. 629, a, d. 1686,) there is the following " Ratification in fiivours of David Ross of BalnagoWtl, of the lands and barony of Balnagown, erecting the village of Ar4gay into a burgh of barony, to be called Bonarness ; and to make burgesses, and to -build a market cross, and ane Tolbooth ; and nominate and appoint baillies yearly, and to keep and bc^d Courts of Justice ; and hold a weekly market on Friday, and two yearly ftirs. It is a very curious^jdescriptive local act, and is deserving of attention. It was never, •eied upon. EDDERTOUN. 433 increased facilities of internal communication by roads, >.>»., fodiens Phoca vitulina .>>>.,,„.^ variabilis Talpa Europsa IV. Rodxntia. V. Ruminamtia. Mus decumanus Cervus caprcolus Roe-deer are not very numerous, and red-deer are not suppos- EDDEUTOUN. 439 Salicaria phragmitcs Sylvia trochilus Parus cariileus Accentor mpdularis Motacilla boarula Anthus pratentis Museicapa grisc^ Corvus ooraz _ • m^tt0»90»* m 't0 COi mX monedula frugileguB Pica melanoleuca Stumus Yulgaris Coccothraustes chloris Carduelia elegans spinus 0'^>0imm^mmmm^^^m0 ^^•0m0mm0m0 m0mmtm^m0m m^ti^000'0m0mmm0im Linaria montana • Pyrgita domestica ■«<» w »«w«i uiOiiiaiia Fringilla montifringilla Emberiza miliaria citrinella schceniculus Alauda arvensis Pyrrhula vulgaris Troglodytes Europsus Cuculus canorus Caprimulgus Eturopsus Hirundo nistiea urbica riparia apus ^F^i0i0'0i0i0i00mi0m0>mm mmmttgm0m^00t^0>^0 tfWMnWWWM«Vi#««M» ' ed to exist in the parish. Besides the above, there are, of course, the usual domestic animals in great abundance. Ornithology.-^ I. Rarobss. Falco tinnunculus Accipiter fringillarius PandioD halieetus Buteo vulgaris Milvus regalis Circus cyaoeus Striz flammea II. iNCXssoacs. Cinclus aquaticus Merula pilaris • Saxicola oenantbe Erithaca rubeoula Phoenicura aoticilla , Cumica cinerea Linaria cannabina Besides the above, we have to notice the game birds which frequent this parish. This family, which are classed among the Rasores or Gallinaceous birds, are known as the Tetraonidce or grouses. Of these we possess two genera, I. Perdix ; common par- tridge, (P. cinerea). 2. Lagopus ; red grouse or moorfowl, fL, ScoticusJ ; common ptarmigan, (Tetrao lagopus). Wood. — At Easter Fearn, there once existed an extensive oak and birch wood, which extended from the top of Struie Hill to the shore. Tradition relates that the whole was purchased, early in the seventeenth century, by two brothers from England, who got it cut down and manufactured into charcoal. The place still retains the name of Meike Wood, and is now covered with brushwood to a considerable extent. At Wester Fearn, on the estate of Balna- gown, there is a fine plantation of Scotch fir, chiefly old trees, co- vering an extent of nearly 100 acres. At Mid- Fearn, on the Su- therland estate, there is a natural wood of birch of 60 acres, and a planted wood of fir, birch, oak, &c. of the same extent. There was also a fir wood of 78^ acres on the hill of Eddertoun, which was on the estate of Cadboll, and was sold in 1838 for L.680 Sterling. It is now nearly cut down, but is to be replanted whenever the ground is cleared of the old wood. The soil here, in its present state, is best adapted for Scotch fi^rs and larches, of which there are considerable plantations in the parish, as mentioned above, and two on the Balnagown property. II. — Civil History. The first historical notice of Eddertoun occurs in the twelfth 4 40 ROSS AND CUOMAUTY. / century; when King William the Lion (who reigned over Scot- land from 1165 to 12H) built a castle at fltherdover, Edirdona^ or Edirton, as a curb upon the turbulent inhabitants of Easter Ross. The situation of this castle or " dune" was near the sea ; and commanded the ferry betwixt the counties of Ross and Suther- land. There is mention made of it in the chronicle of Melrose, Bower's Scotichronicon, and in Macpherson's Geographical Illus- trations of Scottish History. Abbetf ofFearn. — The next event of importance in the history of this parish, is the founding of the Monastery or Abbey of Fearn, which took place in the thirteenth century, Ferquhard, Earl of Ross, having, about the year 1227, accompanied his sovereign, King Alexander 11. to London, challenged a renowned French champion, then at the English court, to single combat d FoiUrance ; and made a vow before entering the lists to found a monastery in his own earldom, if he conquered his antagonist It was very common for men in that dark and superstitious age to make similar vows, imme- diately before engaging in battle or any other hazardous enterprize ; imagining, no doubt, thereby to interest the Almighty in their safety.* The Earl of Ross, having vanquished and slain his op- ponent, set about fulfilling his vow ; and accordingly in travelling home, he brought from the Priory of Whitehorn, or Candida Ccua^ in Galloway, Malcolm and his brother, two canons of the Candidus Ordo\ of the rule of St Augustine ; and procuring some of St Ninian's relics, founded and endowed an Abbey at Fearn, a place situated near the western extremity of this parish, and in the earl- * Hector Boece, and Holinshet) firom him, places this combat in the year 12779 and asserts that for this deed the King conferred the earldom of Ross on Ferquhard or Farquhar Roks, who was before then a private gentleman ; but there are inconteft- tible proufH that Ferquhard, Ear] of Ross, died in 1251, and of there having been a regular succession of earls of that surname from the period when the Parliament was held at Forfar by King Malcolm III. (who reigned from 1057 to 1093) until the death of WUliam, Earl of Ross, in 1371. t This order was called Candtdus Ordo, because their garb was entirely white ; they were also called Praemonatratenses for their principal monastery Praemontr^, (Prae' momtratum)^ which was situated in the diocese of L4on in France. They followed the rule of St Augustine ; and were founded about the year 1120, by St Norbert, Archbishop of Magdeburg in Germany. There were six monasteries of the order in Scotland, situated at the following places : — I Souls- Seat — (Sedes animarum, or Monasterium viridis stagni.) 2. Holy- Wood— -(Monasterium sacri nemorisi and in the Papa] bulls Abbacia de Dorcongall.) 3. Whitehorn— (Candida Casa.) 4. 'lun^^pd, — these four, which were all in Gallowav, were founded by FerguSf' Lord of (Jalloway, during the reign of King David I. (] 124-1 153.) 5. Dryburgh, in Teviotdale, founded in the twelfth century by Hugh Moreville, Constable of Scotland. 6. Fcarn, or Feme, ( Abbacia de Nova Farina or Fernia) in Ross, founded as above, in the thirteenth ceniury, by Ferquhard, Earl of Ross. EDDKllTOUN. 441 dom of Ross. Malcolm of Galloway was appointed by the Earl 6rst abbot of the new monastery, about the year 1230 ; and ^^ by him the affairs of the abbey were conducted with great piety and judgment" until his death, which took place after an incumbency of fif^en years ; '^he was reverenced as a saint" in the monastery, ^' on account of his virtues." Malcolm of Nig succeeded as second Abbot of Fearn about the year 1246. In his time the devotions of the church meeting with frequent interruption from the ferocity and savageness of the neigh- bouring inhabitants, and the situation proving otherwise unsuitable to the purpose, Ferquhard, Earl of Ross, with consent of the abbot and brethren of the convent, transported the abbey, " for the more tranquillity, peace, and quiet thereof," to a place about twelve miles south-east of the former situation, where it continued ever after. Its new site received the name of Fearn, or, as it was styled in ancient charters, " Abbacia de Nova Farinoy'* in allusion to the place where it was originally situated. Its founder and benefac- tor, the Earl of Ross,* granted many new privileges, and bestowed * Ferquhard, Earl of Ross, was interred within the new abbey ; and a stone effigy of a warrior, with his arms crossed on his bresist, is still pointed out as his. An un- successful search was made for his remains 17th September 1819, but was given up, after digging to the depth of eight feet. From its previous connection with this parish, a catalogue of the mitred dignitaries who ruled the Abbey of Fearn, may not be unacceptable. The following is therefore given from the best authorities : — 1. Malcolm of Galloway, 1230. 2. Malcolm of Nigg, 1246. 3. Matthsus, or Machabaeus, who was Bishop of Ross 1272-1274. (Fordun.) 4. Colin, ^^ Colino AbbaU; dc Nova Fernia,** witness in 1298 to a charter. (Deuchar.) 5. Martin, a canon of Candida Casa or VThitchorn. 6. John, also a canon of the Priory of Whitehorn in Galloway. ?• Mark Ross, a knight. Abbey-church rebuilt in his time, 1388. a Donald Piply, a canon of Fearn, — " Donaldus Abbas de Nova Ftrnia," is a witness in 1350, to William Earl of Ross*s entail of his earldom. 9. Adam Monilaw, who died at Fearn in the year 1407. 10. Thomas Cattanach, presented by the Prior of Whitehorn, who assumed that privilege, but rejected by the convent of Fearn. 11. Finlay Ferrier, " grandson to Sir William Ferrier, vicar of Tayn,"died 1440. 12. Finlay M* Fcad, who was held in great respect, »o much so that the king com- manded that he and his descendants sliould bear the name of Fearn as theur family surname, which was accordingly done. This abbot died 17th March 1485, having enjoyed his benifice forty-four years, and was interred in St Michael's aisle, where his effigy in fuU pontificals, with the mitre on his head and crosier by his side, still eiists in tolerable preservation ; and under it is the following inscription in Saxon charac- ters,—" Hie Jacet Finlaius M'Fead, Abbas 'dc Fern, qui obiit anno mcccclxxxv.** 13. Thomas M*Culloch succeeded, and was unjustly deprived by Andrew Stewart, Bishop of Caithness, after which he resided at Mid-Geanics, where he erected a chapel for himself, until his death, which occurred in 1516. 14. Andrew Stewart of the house of Innermeath, having acquired possession of this abbacy, by a pretended bull from Rome, held it till his death, 17th January 1518. He was also Bishop of Caithness, 1490-1518, and Commcndator of the wealthy Abbey of Kelso. ( Rymer, &c.) ROSS AND CROMARTY. ^f 442 ROSS AND CROMARTY. numerous munificent donations upon it ; all which were confirmed by his son and successor, William, Earl of Ross, in 1258. The period of the removal of the abbey from this parish must have oc- curred betwixt the years 1*246 and 1251 ; as Malcolm of Nigg, in whose time the transportation took place, became abbot in the for- mer year, and Ferquhard, Earl of Ross, whose death occurred in the latter, was living at the time, and very instrumental in the removal. Eminent Characters. — Amongst the eminent characters of this parish, the names of the following individuals deserve to be no- ticed : Mr John Sutherland. — Mr Sutherland was son of Mr Arthur Sutherland, Episcopal incumbent or curate of Eddertoun, from 1679 to 1708; and at the period of his father's death (8th April 1708) was very young. He early embraced Presbyterianism, and having pursued the usual course of study, preparatory to becom- 1.5. Patrick Hamilton, a natural son of the Earl of Arran, received this bcat^fice when quite a child, and it is probable never resided at Feam. He was the Brst called in question for religion at the dawning of the Reformation in Scotland, and having been found guilty of thirteen different articles of heresy, was burnt at the gate of St Salvator's College in St Andrew's, 28th February 1527^ at the age of tweiity-ibur.— (Spottiswood, Keith, &c.) 16. Donald Dunoon, of the family of Dunoon, of Dunoon, in Argyleshire, sue- oeeded Abbot Hamilton in J 528; be was a man of great learning, and died 9th Fe- bruary 1540. 17. Robert Caimcross, Bishop of Ross, 1599-1545, was appc(jnted Abbot of Fearn, upon the king's recommendation to the Pope, as the building was out of repair, and the Bishop, a wealthy man, and so i|i a capacity to restore the edifice. He was Provost of Corstorphine, Abbot of Holyroodhouse, and chaplain to King James V. — (Uolin- shed, Keith, &c) He resigned the abbacy. 1st April 1545, and died shortly after. — (Ep. Reg. Scot) 18. James Caimcross having thus acquired the benefice by Bishop Cairncross*! resignation, who was probably his brother or some near relation, enjoyed it only a few months, having also resigned that same year. 19. Nicholas Ross, Provost of the Collegiate Church of Tain, was appointed in 1546 to the Abbey of Feam ; but seems to have held it as a seculaur charge; for in the Parliament of 1560, he sat and voted for the abolition of the Roman Catholic religion in Scotland, and was an avowed Protestant. He died at Fearn in 1569. 20. Thomas Ross of Culnahal, Provost of the Collegiate Church of Tain, and vicv of Alness He was forced, by troubles and oppression by the neighbouring barons, to reside for many years in Forres, during which period he received little or no benefit from the revenues of his monastery. Abbot Ross married Isobel, daughter of Alex- ander Kinnaird of Cowbin, and dying in 1595, was buried in St Michael's aisle at Feam. 21. Walter Ross of Morangy, and son of the preceding, was the last com mendator of the Abbey of Feam. It would appear that he was little more than titular abbot or commendator, (as these titulars were called), for in 1597. the lands belonging to the abbey were erected into a temporal lordship called the Barony of Geanies, and granted by James VI. to Sir Patrick Murray, who was a great favourite of his ; and in the year 1607, all the other lands not contained in that barony were, by act of Par- liament, annexed to the bishopric of Ross. Whether Abbot Ross, who was not con- sulted in making these arbitrary grants, was living at that period, or when he died, is not known. Thus this venerable institution, after ezLsting nearly four hundred years, became extinct.— ( Forbes on Tithes makes 1617 the date of its annexation to the Bishopric of Ross. ) EDDKUTOUN. 443 ing a candidate for the ministry in the Church of Scotland, was licensed by the Presbytery of Dornoch, within whose bounds he was residing. The parish of Eddertoun beconiing vacant about this time, by the death of Mr Hector Fraser, his father's imme- diate successor, on the 17th of May 1729, and the patron omitting to present any person within the six months specified by law, the " right of planting the said parish" fell into the presbyteries' hands tanquamjnre devoluto; and on the day appointed for moderating ID a call, it appeared that there were three candidates,— Mr Alex- ander Rose, a licentiate of the presbytery of Aberdeen ; Mr John Sutherland ; and Mr Robert Robertson, minister of Loth, in the county of Sutherland, — a considerable number of the heritors, el- ders, and heads of families in the parish voting for each. After a variety of procedure, unnecessary to be recited here, a Presbyterial call was given to Mr Robertson, on the 16th April 1730. Though Mr Sutherland was not the successful candidate for Eddertoun, yet his character as a preacher was so high, that in a few months afterwards he received a call to another parish, — Golspie in Sutherlandshire, — and was ordained and admit- ted there SOth April 1731. That parish was for some time before the year 1688 a sanctuary, by means of the family of Sutherland's steady adherence to the interests of religion, and re- sidence in the parish, to sundry eminent individuals persecuted from a neighbouring county, for their non-compliance with the imposi- tions of the times. These refugees might with safety have returned to their native county immediately after the Revolution, yet such was their gratitude to the above-mentioned noble family, that they chose rather to spend the remainder of their days in their respec- tive callings, under the wings that covered them in their distress. During the forty years' ministry of Mr Walter Denune,* Mr Su- therland's immediate predecessor, religion flourished in the pa- rish. Mr Denune had himself, previous to his settlement there, * When the *< United Presbyteries of Ross and Southerland" were disjoined into three presbyteries, and erected into a synod, by their own act, dated *^ At Tain, 11th December 1706,** Mr Walter Denune, as the oldest minister in the roll, preached from the third verse of St Jude*8 Epistle, and was afterwards choM^n moderator of the newly erected synod, at its first meeting, on the 18th of March 1707. The synod at that period consisted of the ** Presbytery of Dornoch,** with three members, the " Presbytery of Tain,'* with Jbiir^ and the « United Presbyteries of Chanry and Dingwall,** with three members; in all ten membei-s, who 'ft-ere all ministers; the re- maining parishes being either vacant, or possessed by Episcopal incumbents. There were also " correspondents" at this synod from the " Presbytery of Forress and In- ▼erncts* and from the " Presbytery of Elgin, Abcrlour, and Abemethy,'* which in- creased the number to fifteen Synod-book of Ron and Sutherland, Vol i. 3 444 ROSS AND CROMARTY. suffered considerably for non -conformity during the period be- twixt the Restoration and Revolution, as related in Wodrow's History. At Mr Sutherland's admission to Golspie, in ITSl, there was a considerable number of devout Christians in the place, some of them being the posterity of these refugees ; but during the perrod betwixt the years 1731 and 1744, nothing remarkable occurred under his ministrations, till in November of the latter year, when there was a considerable awakening and revival of re- ligion, which extended through the parish. There is a full ac- count of it given in a letter from Mr Sutherland, dated '^ Golspy, August 8, 1745," and addressed to Mr Robe of Kilsyth, by whom it was published in his " Monthly History" for 1745, (No. 5, p. 130,) and also in « Gillies's Collections," (Vol. ii. p. 387.) After a ministry of twenty-one years in Golspie, Mr Sutherland was translated to the town and parish of Tain, and admitted there 29tb July 1752. He died at Tain on the 25th November 1769, in the thirty-ninth year of his ministry. Mr Sutherland, who was twice married, left a numerous family. His eldest son, William, born 27th January 1738, was minister of the parish of Wick, in Caithness, for a period of fifty years, (1765 — 1815.) Alexander Ross Oag. — At the period of Mr Robertson's admis- sion to this parish in 1730, there lived an aged Christian, named Alexander Ross Oag^ (or Yotcng^ a very common patronymic when the father and son were of the same name;) a man in indigent cir- cumstances, and without the advantages of education, but of such uncommon natural talents, combined with fervent piety and Christ- ian simplicity, that numerous anecdotes, well authenticated, il- lustrative of his eminent character, and the estimation in which he was held, especially by the religious public, are still related throughout the northern counties.* « * One instance may be recorded exemplifying, his confidence in the providential, goremment of God. A sturdy beggar, one of a ctass very numerous at that period, came to his house bite one evening, and asked fbi a night's lodging. Alexander met the man at the door, and expressed his willinguess to receive himi excepting for hb ignorance of the man*s character for honesty, statii^ that he was a weaver by trade, and must be careful of the property belonging to -other people which was under his charge. The *^ gaberlunzie-man** protested in the most solenm manner as to his honesty and principles, appealing at the same time to the Divine Omniscience as his witness and surety ! " Your surety is accepted; and you are welcome to such enter- tainment as I can afford," was the reply. Here the '* gudewife,** who was of quite a different stamp, — being a bold, irreligious^ worldly woman, — interfered, upbraid- ing her husband for his simplicity, and neglect of his temporal interests, in admitting a perfect stranger on such pretences. Here the beggar again protested, to quiet the fears and suspicions of his hostess, and the worthy master of the house repeated his entire satisfaction with the assurances given. .The beggar, discovering the character of his host, endeavoured to the best of his EDDEllTOUN. 446 Though this individual, obscure and unnoticed in all worldly respects, has entered " the land of forgetfulness" upwards of a cen- tury ago, such is the veneration and respect in which his memory is still held in this parish, that there are several individuals living who were named after him, and even within the last three years there has been one added to the number. It was lately proposed to erect a monument to Alexander Oag's memory in the churchyard here, where a flat stone marks the place of his interment ; but this proposal, though not abandoned, has not yet been carried into eflect. Land-aumers. — Sir Charles William Augustus Ross of Balna- gown, Bart; His Grace George Granville Sutherland, Duke of Sutherland, K. G. ; and Robert Bruce iEneas Macleod, Esq. of Cadboll, are the land-owners in this parish : all of them being pro- prietors of land upwards of the yearly value of L. 50, and non- resident. The following is the present valuation of their respective estates in the parish of Eddertoun : — Balnagown, L.lld8; Sutherland, L.820; Cadboll, L.70, 10s. Estate of Balnaffotun. — The lands of Balnagown in this and the neighbouring parish of Kincardine have been in the possession of abilities to lead the conYersation to religious subjects, and thus occupied the time till he retired to rest. The wife, however, less satisfied with the honesty of her guest than her unsuspicious husband, rose at an early hour on the following morn- iog, and immediately went to her lodger^s apartment to see if all was safe ; but what was her alarm on finding the beggar gone, and one of the most valuable webs of cloth in the house carried off! The first expression of her feelings was to attack. Alexan- der, for his impiAidence in admitting the beggar contrary to her express desire ; but his calm and cool rejoinder was, " I appeal to the surety. ** The beggar, on starting from Alexander's house with his ill-gotten booty, at an hour before sunrise, made the best of his way towards Alness, over what was then a trackless moor, many miles in extent ; but being overtaken by a dense mist, (it was a morning in the *^ soute sea- ton,'*) he wandered about the whole day, without a glimmer of sunshine, or a path which might guide him to a human habitation. At length, soon af^er nightfall, he observed a feeble rush-light at a short distance, and, oveijoyed at the prospect of shel- ter, food, and rest, exerted his sinking energies, and reached the door of the cottage, at which he knocked several times. A voice which seemed femiliar to him inquired from within *< Who is there ?*' To which the weary traveller replied, '< A perishing man, who seeks admission in the name of mercy T' Upon this the door was opened, and the beggar, sinking under fatigue and the weight of his burden, threw himself down near the fire, and, with a groan, looked around to see where he was, and what reception he was likely to get from the inmates. The ^* gudeman of the house*' now came forward, after closing the door, to untie the stranger's burden, which seemed to oppress him with its weight, and administer consolation to his drooping spirits, when he was startled by the shrill voice of his wife exclaiming, *< turn out the thieving Tillain, or he'll be making off with more of your webs, I'se warrant." — *' No, Peg- gy," was the reply, ** our property is sent back by the Surety, and for His sake the poor man shall be sheltered and entertained this night too." The incident was made the occasion of imparting reproof and Christian instruction by Alexander Oag to the poor beggar, who was deeply affected, and it is said perma* nently benefited under circumstances so remarkable. - i 446 ROSS AND CROMARTY. the family of Ross from remote aDtiquity, as may be seen in the account of the Abbey of Fearn in this' parish, towards the beginning of the thirteenth century. But on the decay of that monastic institution after the Reformation, the lairds of Balua- gown seem to have been resuming the grants of land, &c., which their ancestors, the Earls of Ross, had been bestowing with so liberal a hand upon the abbey ; for we 6nd that in the year 1580, on the demission of Robert Colvil, prebendary of Cambuscurry, (which was in this parish,) Alexander Ross of Balnagown got a grant from the crown of that prebend for seven years, for the maintenance of his son, Malcolm, at school ; and by its becoming afterwards the property of another son of Balnagown, it would ap- pear that he got a perpetual grant of it In 1601, a charter was granted by Sir Patrick Murray,* to George Ross of Balnagown, and his heirs and assignees, of " tlie lands of Wester- Fearn, Downy, fishings of Bonar, lands of Easter and Wester Drum of Fearn, with the half of the manor-place and gardens of Fearn, commonly called the monastery of Fearn," &c. ; the other half of the abbey lands, possessed by Sir Patrick, fell to the share of Sir William Sinclair of Mey, son-in-law to Balnagown. The other lands be- longing to the abbey not contained in the above grant were an- nexed to the bishopric of Ross, in the year 1607; and in 1609, David Lindsay, Bishop of Ross, grants a charter to George Ross, of the " Kirkton of Kincardin, lands of Ardgay, Eddertown," &c. From this it would appear that the revenues of the monastery were very great, when it was in the full possession of the rents of these lands ; but at the time of the Reformation its revenues must have been considerably diminished ; for as early as the time of Abbot M'Fead, (or, as he was frequently called. Abbot Fearn,) who ruled the monastery from 1440 to 1485, certain farms belonging to the abbey were feued oflF to the friends and relatives of the abbots and commendators (as the titular Protestant abbots of monaste- ries were commonly called after the Reformation) ; and every succeeding incumbent appears to have followed the same perni- cious example, until the evil became past remedy.f * In 1597, the Abbacy of Fearn was erected into a barony, called the *' Barony of Geanies/' and given by King James VI. to Sir Patrick (at> mentioned in the ac- count of the ** Abbey of Fearn,") ; but this grant did not prove a very advantageous one, for the whole of the lands contained in it, having been either violently or by feus from the latter Abbots, kept poi»sc8sion of by the neighbouring gentlemen, he found it so difficult to recover them, that he accepted 1B,(XM) merks ScoU from the I^Aird of Balnagown, and his son-in-law, Sinclair of Mey, for the whole barony. (Ancient Charters, &c.) f The correctness of these statements will appear more fully from the following EDDERTOUN. 447 The baronry of Westray is entailed property; but the small es- tates of Meikle and Little Daan, which also belong to the Balna«- gown family, and were acquired by purchase, the former in the last century, and the other in the present, are both unentailed. Meikle Daan originally belonged to the family of Foulis; a char- ter and disposition of those lands having been granted by Hector Munro, twenty-second Baron of Foulis, in August 1601, to " An- drew Munro, his youngest brother-german," to hold of the said Hector Munro of Foulis and his descendants, on payment of a feu- duty of " X. merkis Scottis yearlie." Estate of Sutherland, — The estates in this parish belonging to the Duke of Sutherland were acquired by purchase in 1832, from Murdo Mackenzie, Esq. of Ardross, who had inherited them from his maternal ancestors. Easter Fearn, which is a part of them, was originally in the possession of a family of the name of Ross. Estate of CadbolL — The Estate of Upper Eddertoun was ac-, quired by Roderick Macleod of Cadboll, in the year 1729, on the death of ^neas Macleod of Cambuscurry, without heirs-male, as ** heir of tailzie of the foresaid lands of Upper' Eddertoun." The land-owners of this parish were more numerous about a century ago than at present. The following are their names, with their respective valuations, in the year 1745 : — The Laird of Balnagown, . . L. 1045 Scots. Bailie Nicolas Ross, merchant in Tain, Victor on the sequestrated estate of Easter Fearn, . . , 200 Alexander Ross, tacksman of Mid-Pcarn» . 100 Roderick Macleod of Cadboll, ... 73 ' David Ross of Priesthill, heritor of Meikle Daan, . 61 Alexander Ross, in Gray*s Inn, London, writer to the Signet, or Francis GriflStb, his factor, for the lands of Little Diin, 50 Total valuation of Eddertoun, L.1529 Scots. Parochial Registers^ Sfc. — The register of births, baptisms, and facts: — The descendants, collaterly, of Abbot Fearn were very numerous, David Fearn of Tarlogie, and Andrew Fearn of Pitcaliion or Pitculzean, both claimed to be related to him, and both their properties having been originally ** Abbey- lands,** Abbot Dunoon (1528-1540), feued off the Barony of Cadboll, in 1534, to his nephew, Andrew Dunoon, in whose family it coDtinued till it was lust in supporting the cause of the unfortunate King Charles ** the martyr." Dunoon of Pitogarty, and Sir An- drew Dunoon were al»[i of this family. In 1559, Mr Robert Melville, Prebend of Tain and Chaplain of Tarlogie, granted a *< charter of confirmation of the lands of Tarlogie to George Munro of Dalcastle, with consent of Mr Nicholas Ross, Com- mendator of Fearn." (1546-1569.) Abbou Nicholas and Thomas Ross (1569-1595) were compelled by the powerful neighbouring barons to give grants of the lands be- longing to the monastery. This oppression reduced the latter personage to great straits, as related in the " CaUlogue of \bbots." And, to conclude, " Walter Ross of Morangy, the last Comraendaior of the Abbacy of Fearn," procured a grant in his own favour, of " Morangy and the mills thereof," and these lands belonged to his family for several generations. (Charters of Family of Ross, &c., and ancient MSS.) 448 ROSS AND CROMAUTV. marriages, commences 25th July 1799, and has been regularly kept since that period, previous to which nothing of the kind ex- isted. It is contained in one volume. The session records only began to be kept by the late incumbent ; the first entry being dated 26th September 1821. They consist of minutes of the proceedings of the kirk-session, poor's funds, &c. There is no register of deaths kept. The kirk-session of the parish consists of ten members, all re- gularly ordained elders. The session-clerk at present is Mr Wat- son, the parochial schoolmaster. Antiquities. — Dunes.— There is a complete chain of those round towers called Dunes surrounding this parish ; none of them, however in a state of even tolerable preservation. • One of these, situated at Easter Fearn, and known by the name of Dune-Allis- caig, (from DUn-fair-hisffeadh, or the beacon watch-tower,) was about fourteen feet in height within the last thirty years, and had vaults and a spiral staircase within the wall. This interesting speci- men of a Teutonic fortress was entirely destroyed about 1818, by the materials of which it consisted being used for building dikes and farm-houses at Easter Fearn, so that scarcely a vestige is now to be seen. Sculptured Stones. — There are several of these stones here. One behind the school-house, which is ten feet in height above around, and tapers to a point at top, the breadth at the bottom being about four feet. This obelisk, which is of rough unhewn whinstone, has what seems to be a salmon sculptured very cor- rectly on the north side, and below that two concentric circles, the one three inches below the other, but joined together and con- nected with the fish by a triangle running through this joining. These hieroglyphics, which perhaps allude to the circumstance of the chief who is interred under the stone, being one of the Vikingr, or sea-kings of the middle-ages, are executed with great delicacy and beauty. There is a circle surrounding the obelisk, at the distance of three yards from it as the radius, and two feet in height above the surrounding plain ; and the local tradition is, that a battle was fought in this place betwixt the inhabitants of the coun- try and a party of invading Norwegian pirates, in which the latter were defeated with the loss of their leader. Prince Carius, who was interred on this eminence, and the above-mentioned obelisk erected over him ; accordingly, the name of the place to this day is Carry Blair, or the battle-field of Carius. EDDERTOUN. 44 9 There is another sculptured stone in the church-yard, with a warrior on hoi*seback in the lower compartment, and a large cross engraved above it ; on the other side there are a number of cu- rious circles and hieroglyphics, arranged in an indescribable manner. In the old mansion-house of Meikle Daan, there is, above the fire-place of the principal apartment, a yellow stone, 5 feet 4 inches long, and 1 foot 7 inches broad, with three circles 16 inches in diameter. Above the middle circle, and betwixt it and the others, are the following initials, A. M. M. F. 1680 ; and below, the motto, Soli * Deo * Gloria . There is in the middle circle a man in what seems to be a Geneva hat, cloak, and band, with the long peaked beard and mustachios of the seventeenth century, holding an open book in his right hand, in which is written ** Fear * God * in • hairt • as • ye • my • be • bsd." Surrounding this effigy, of what is in all probability a clergyman, are the following motto and initials, " Servire • Deum • est • regnare • M. H. M. E. R." In the circle to the right are three lions rampant in an escutcheon, surrounded by the motto, . " Nobilis • Est • Ira • Leonis ;" and in the left circle an eagle, also in an escutcheon, and ^* Aquila * non • captat • muscas." IIL — Population. In 1755, the amount of population by return to Dr Webster was 780 1791, when the Old Statistical Account was drawn up, 1000 180], by census, .... 899 1811, .... 846 1821, ..... 915 1831, .... 1023 Number of families in the parish in 1831, . 216 chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 137 trade, manufactures, rr handicraft, 18 Language, — The language generally spoken is Gaelic ; and though the inhabitants speak English less or more perfectly, and are desirous to give an English education to their children, the Gaelic language has lost scarcely any ground within the last forty years. Character and Habits of the People. — The habits of the people are cleanly, and their style and manner of dress conformable to what prevails among people of the same rank, and in the same circumstances, in the vicinity. With few exceptions, they retain the characteristics of the Grael^ being patient under adverse cir- cumstances, and, though not disposed to endure constant toil, re- solute in every effort to better their condition and maintain their independence ; they are, consequently, industrious, and contented under many privations and trials. They are also intelligent, 450 ROSS AND CROMARTY. moral, and religious ; and while the duty of family visitation has been observed at stated periods, that of catechising the whole pa- rish is performed annually. There is an efficient kirk-session of pious and active elders, and the neglect of family worship is scarcely known in the parish. That instances of immorality occa- sionally occur, does not detract from the general character of the people, or sanction the imputation of that which is the very oppo- site, though such methods of generalizing have been frequently adopted, to the prejudice both of truth and of reputation ; how unjust and illogical, for instance, to brand the religion of a whole district, as favouring fanciful and perverse views of the holy Scrip- tures and sacraments, because certain individuals were justly or unjustly charged with such principles^ and conduct. Or supposing cases of petty theft to occur, or instances be known of persons ad- mitting the possibility of chasms or superstitious observances hav- ing some good or evil effect, — the former, a crime rarely known among true Highlanders, and the latter now rapidly disappearing, — would it not be gross injustice to distinguish the one people as thieves, and the other as grossly superstitious ? Perhaps in no part of Scotland have the ministrations of the Gospel been continued in greater purity and faithfulness for the last century and a half, than in the county of Ross, and especial- ly in the district of East Ross. Still, however, as might be ex- pected, the power of vital godliness has not been uniform among its inhabitants, either in extent or degree ; moral conduct and the decencies of religious habits were always observed, but Christians of talent, piety, and influence were becoming gradually few. This was for some time past a matter of deep concern to ministers and people, when they reflected on the number and eminence of the witnesses removed by death, and the comparative fewness of those raised up to fill their places. Various means, and especially that of prayer- meetings, in parishes and among ministers, were em- ployed, and increasing attention and seriousness were observable, particularly on occasions of the celebration of the* communion sacrament, for the last two or three years ; but nothing remark- able occurred till under the evening address of the excellent Mr Macdonald of Urquhart, on the communion Sabbath, at Tarbat, 5th July 1840, and again on Monday following, when there was an unusual impression and awakening over the whole congregation. The same pervading influence has rapidly ex- tended over the neighbouring parishes of Tain, Eddertoun, Lo- BDDEHTOUN. 45l gie-Easter, Kilmuir-Easter, Alness, Urquhart, Kirkmichael, and others. The plainest sermons are often accompanied by the most extraordinary effects; and in all the above- mentioned pa- rishes, there are one or more week-day evening sermons and prayer- meetings in church ; and the anxiety to attend on every such oc- casion continues unabated among the great body of the people. Congregations which formerly would appear to great advantage, when contrasted with others, throughout any part of the country, south or north, in respect to attendance on Divine service, and orderly demeanour during public worship, appear now quite altered, — while many of those once comparatively careless are awakened to a deep and abiding concern. It is premature to judge as to the sav- ing effects on individual cases; but there can be little doubt, that the work is of Divine origin, and of a saving aud permanent cha- racter already in many instances. This parish also shared in the benefits of a revival of religion, which took place towards the beginning of last century. Poaching, even in olden times, was rare ; and smuggling has been extinct since the commencement of this century, to the marked benefit, temporal and spiritual, of the inhabitants of this parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — It is impossible to give the exact number of acres in this parish, as there has been no survey taken of the Balnagown estates — the largest in the parish — for many years, the last being in 1808 ; and the many changes which have taken place since that period, especially in cultivation and tillage of the different farms on that estate, make it quite unnecessary and useless to give the measurement then taken. Even the total number of acres is unat- tainable at present, as large tracts of moor-land and hill pasturage seem to have been left unsurveyed. The rental of the Balnagown estates here is as follows : Barony of Westray (or West Struie,) - L.1453 4 7 Estate of Meikle DfUn, . . J 5.5 19^ 2 Do. Little D^n, • - 133 6 9 ToUl rental, L.1742 10 6 The following is the measurement of the property belonging to the Duke of Sutherland in this parish : Acres. Roods. Arable land, - 134 3 - L. 175 3 6 Improveable pasture, 2.^ 1 - 10 2 Hill pasture, . 13,160 - 221 5 Platitcd Wood, 60 Natural wood, . 60 L.406 10 6 Present ralue — — per annum. 13,440 Acres Scots measure. 452 ROSS AND CROMARTY The present enterprisiDg farmer of the Sutherland estates in this parish — Donald Macleod, Esq. Gladefield House, Kincar- dine — has greatly improved the property since the year 1835, hav- ing added about 60 acres to the arable land, which was then but inferior pasturage, covered with broom and whins. He was also at the expense of building 8135 yards of substantial stone dikes, 3310 yards of covered drains in improved land, and of cutting 12,720 yards of hill or sheep drains. These extensive outlays, amounting to some thousand pounds, and which no doubt will be suitably remunerated by a landlord of wealth and distinguished liberality to his tenants, have, with other improvements, increased the annual value at least L.70 beyond what it was when the pro- perty was acquired. The measurement of the estate of CadboU ; Acres. Roods, Scots measure. Arable land, - 137 3 Pasture and moor, - 1077 Wood, . - 78 2 Total, 1293 1 The present rental is L.219, 2s. 2d. Sterling ; and the wood above-mentioned was sold in 1838 for L.680, and is now nearly cut down, but is to be replanted. Balblair Distillery. — There is a whisky distillery situated at Balblair, in this parish, which was established about forty years ago, and was the first in this part of the country. It distils week- ly 120 bushels of malt, which should give about two gallons of whisky each ; the price averages 9s. 6d. per gallon ; and they are permitted to sell at three strengths, — 11 under proof, (U. P.) 1 1 and 25 over-proof, ( O. P.) but the last is rarely, if ever, re- quired or made. The flavour and quality of these spirits is pronounced unequal- led by connoisseurs in such matters ; perhaps this may arise from the use of peats as fuel, and other secrets of distillation acquired from the old smugglers. The repute of this distillery has no doubt been considerably enhanced by the estimation in which the late Mr John Ross, who commenced it, was held by all his nume- rous acquaintances. He was a man of most benevolent dispositions, Christian prin- ciples, and strict attention to business. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication, — There is no market-town or village in the parish ; the post-town, which is five miles from the manse, EDDEUTOUN. 453 being TaiD. The mail-gig, which runs betwixt that town and Bonar Bridge, passes here at 8 a. m. going to Kincardine, and at 6 p. M. on its return to Tain. There is a good harbour at Ardmore, capabte of accommodat- ing vessels of 1 50 tons burthen ; and during the summer season, a considerable number of schooners and smacks, and sometimes a brig, arrive there, with cargoes of coals, lime, &c. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated about a mile and a half from the eastern extremity of the parish, and eight from the western extremity towards Kincardine, (which is marked by an immense rock of grey whinstone, extending from the public road to the sea, at a place called Ardcronie.) It is exactly a mile from the manse, and is very inconveniently situated for the inha- bitants, on account of the distance the greater part of them have to come. There are two dates on the church, " 1743," being that on the west, and ^* 1794," that on the east gable; the former is the date of its original erection, and the other of the last re- pair of any consequence which it received. Its length is 55 feet, breadth 18, and height of ceiling 7 feet from gallery, and under gallery, 6 feet 3 inches, — the walls being only 10^ feet high outside, and passages and floor sunk two feet. All the seats, ex- cepting about half-a-dozen, are too narrow from back to front, many being only 21 inches, while the legal minimum width is 27 inches. The roof and galleries are much decayed, the west one being supported by props, the front gallery so ill constructed as to be but seven feet from the pulpit, and there are several rents in the back wall. In conclusion, the church is ill lighted and venti- lated, and is situated in such a low damp place, that the floor is frequently flooded ; so that, on the whole, it is perhaps the worst constructed, and most uncomfortable place of worship in the county. The church seats are all free, and have never been divided by the heritors of the parish. They accommodate from 400 to 500 persons, though, if the legal seat-room were exacted, the number would not exceed 300, — very inadequate accommodation for the population. The manse, which was originally close to the church, and had to be removed on account of a destructive inundation of the river, was built in its present situation in the year 1799 ; and received a considerable repair in 1838, — several small additions which con- tribute much to the comfort of the house,, being then erected. A new set of offices was also built at that time. 454 ROSS AND CROMARTY. The glebe was originally designed, (as the fixing of its limits is technically termed,) on Sd July 1729, after a tedious and expen- sive process, which cost the incumbent, Mr Hector Fraser, up- wards of L. 1000 Scots, (a large sum in those days,) and the be- nefit of which he never reaped, having been removed by death in the month of May preceding ; but the situation proved so incon- venient by its distance from the manse, that it was never taken possession of by the succeeding ministers, and remained in the hands of the proprietor, who paid rent for it, and provided them with a farm ; until 6th June 1 838, when an excambion took place, and the former glebe having been perhaps the best land in the pa- rish, and the soil of a deep loam, quantity was on this occasion given for quality. The extent of the present glebe is as follows, being the measurement taken by Gregory Buruett, Esq. land-sur- veyor, Ardross: Arable. Pasture. Part laid off, 6th Juuc 1836, as above, - 21 2 14 14 1 14 Do. formerly occupied by manse, offices, garden, &c. 2 14 3 2 Total contents of glebe of Eddertoun, 41 acres, 34 fails imperial measure. The place where the glebe is now was, at no very distant pe- riod, a broom-moor, which its name signified in Gaelic, Fonn- bhealaidhf or the district of broom ; but it is capable of much im- provement, and a consequent increase of value. At present the value, including garden, is about L.16 per annum. The stipend is fifteen chalders, half meal, half barley, Linlith- gow measure, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. Sterling for communion elements. The last augmentation which raised it to that having been awarded in June 1839, the modification took place 20th February previ- ously. There is, however, a deficiency of eight bolls in the above at present, according to the interim locality. The annual value of the stipend of Eddertoun may therefore be estimated at L. 230. Before the period of the Reformation, the sub- deanery of Ross " consisted of the two kirks of Tayn and Eddertayn, and the rental was L.200, 6s. 8d. Scots," ^MS. in Advocates' Library), and this had probably been the case since Popery became the established religion of Scotland. There is a tradition in the parish, that the only copy of the Scriptures in use here, during Popish times, was a large parchment scroll, which was chained to the pulpit. In the list of parsonages in Scotland in 1 562, given in the History of the Affairs of Church and State in Scotland, by the Right Rev. Bishop Keith, the name of " Eddirtoun" occurs. In the Register of Ministers, Exhorters, and Readers, and of EDDERTOUN. " 455 their Stipends, soon after the Reformation, which exists in ma- nuscript in the Advocates' Library, there is the following notice of this and the neighbouring parish of Kincardine : — " Kincardin — Etherthane. Farquhar Reid, exhortar, xl merkis, and xx merkis mair sen Lambmes 1569." From which it would appear that these two parishes were under the ecclesiastical charge and inspection of only one exhorter, the difficulty of getting Protestant ministers to supply parishes being very great at that remote period, when the nation was just emerging from Popery. The next ec- clesiastical notice of Eddertoun occurs in the Register of Assig- nations of Ministers' Stipends for 1576, (MS. in Register Office, Edinburgh,) as follows: — " Eddirtayn; Donald Symsoun, reidare at Eddertayn, his stipend xx merkis, with the kirk land thairof," &c From 1576 to 1638, a period of sixty-two years, there is no- thing known regarding the ecclesiastical history of this "parish ; but since the latter year there is a complete succession of parish ministers preserved. Ministers of Eddertoun. — 1. Mr Hector Monro, whose name occurs in the list of members of the famous General Assembly which met at Glasgow, ^Ist November 1638, as one of the com- missioners from the Presbytery of Tayn : thus, ** M. Hector Mon- ro, min. in Nether Taine." Mr Monro was second son of Mr William Monro, parson of Coulecudden* in Cromartyshire, about the end of the sixteenth, or rather beginning of the seventeenth century, and was proprietor of the small estate of Daan, in this parish, which descended to his son. He was translated to the parish of Kincardine about the year 1665, and appears to have either conformed to Episcopacy, or been one of the indulged Presbyterian clergymen of that period. Mr William Ross, — ^who succeeded, was Rector of Eddertoun * The parson of Cullicudden was nephew of Mr Donald (or John as it occurs in some places,) Munro, ** Hugh Dean of the Isles/* or Archdeacon of that diocese, " Superintendant of Ross, and minister of Kiltearn," who travelled through the most of these districts in the year 1549, and wrote an interesting account of them in the Scottish dialect and orthography, the greatest part of which Buchanan adopted in his History of Scotland. He was appointed at the Reformation, " Commissioner to plant kirJcis in Ross, and to assist the Bischope of Caitness (Robert Stewart, Earl of March, who was, however, not in priest's orders,) in semkble planting, to begyn at Lambmes 1563, stipend ii|jc (400) merkis." The eldest son of the parson of Cullicudden was Mr Riobert Monro of Coull, minister of Kiltearn, and thereafter in Strathnaver, and by his wife, Isobell Thorntown, daughter of the Laird of Dalgelly, had two other sons and a daughter. The family were cadets of the Munros of Fou- lis, being descended from George, thirteenth Baron of Foulis, (1425-1452,) and seem to have always had some of their sons in the church. 45G ROSS AND CROMARTY. about fourteen years. . He died in 1679, and a tombstone in this churchyard marks the place of his interment. Mr Arthur Sutherland, — who was the last Episcopal incumbent or curate here, succeeded, and at the Revolution was allowed to remain in possession of his church, manse, and stipend, upon tak- ing the oath of allegiance to the existing powers. Accordingly, he continued to preach, &c. undisturbed, though he never con- formed to the Presbyterian form of church-government, until the period of his death, which took place 8th April 1708. Mr Su- therland having, at his own private expense, laid out considerable sums on repairing the manse, ^' which was in no good case when he entered to the place," and which was valued altogether at L.48i Scots; and the Presbytery, " finding by a subscribed com- priseing of the said manse, at the said Mr Arthur Sutherland, his entrie thereto, the old manse was comprised to the soume of nine- ty-seven pounds, Scots money," ordered the heritors of the parish to meet at Eddertoun, on the Gth April 1709, and " stent and tax themselves, according to their several valuations in the fors"* paroch, for paying to the heirs and executors of the said Mr Arthur Sutherland the soume of L.384 Scots money ;"* which was accord- ingly paid ; and shows that the heritors at that period considered themselves liable to the heirs of a clergyman tor expenses neces- sarily incurred by him, though not laid out under the sanction of the presbytery. Besides his relict Mr Sutherland left a son, John, who was minister of Golspie 1731-52, and of Tain 1752-69, and of whom there is a sketch amongst the '^ Eminent Indivi- duals" of this parish. Mr Hector Fraserj — who seems to have been a probationer of the Presbytery of Edinburgh, and was sent north by the Assem- bly 1699, to supply vacancies in the bounds of Ross — that year he was ordained to Kincardine; and on the 12th September 1706, an *^act of transportability" (as the privilege of accepting a call to another charge, if such a call should be given, was term- ed,) having been passed by the united presbyteries of Ross and Sutherland in his favour, Mr Eraser accepted ^^ a call from the paroch of Eddertown," which was presented to the presbytery dOth November 1 708^ He died, after an eminently useful minis- try of twenty years, on the 17th of May 1729. Mr Robert Robertson succeeded : he was previously minister of • Presbytery Records of Tain, Vol. i. pp. 69-70. 4 KDDEUTOUN^ 457 the parish of Loth in Sutherland, to which he had been ordained and admitted 10th May 1721. His settlement here was disputed for a considerable time ; but at last, as before noticed, Mr Robert- son received a Presbyterial callj on the 16th April 1730; and the presbytery of Dornoch, (in which Loth is,) having agreed on the 7th May to " transport him to the parish of Eddertoun," he was accord- ingly admitted here on the 29th July 1730. From the various steps taken previously to Mr Robertson's admission to Eddertoun, it will be readily seen, that, though the '^ act restoring patronage" had been passed nearly twenty years before, patrons of parishes were in the habit of allowing the people to choose their own mi- nisters, without any reference to them whatever, or presentation to a particular person being issued. Mr Robertson was minister of this parish only ten years, and died 13th December 1740. Mr Joseph Munroy son of Mr Robert Munro, minister of Kin- cardine, (1711-41,) was licensed by the presbytery of Hadding- ton, 5th June 1739, and received a presentation* to this parish from the Right Honourable the Earl of Cromertie, dated 2d June 1741, which he accepted; but on the day appointed for moderat- ing in a call, the presbytery, Gnding that the heritors were unani- mously for Mr Munro, while all the elders and some of the heads of families there petitioned for another, (Mr G. Robertson, then a probationer, and afterwards minister of Kincardine,) they ^^ re- ferred the case simpliciter to the synod." The call to Mr Munro was sustained by the synod of Ross, at their meeting in April 1742, and the presbytery appointed to concur therewith; which was accordingly ^done, and Mr Munro ordained and admitted minister of Eddertoun on the lOth of September 1742. He died 16th March 1785, in the seventy-Grst year of his age, and forty- third of bis ministry. Mr Alexander Munro was ordained and admitted minister of this parish on the 28th September 1785. During the earlier part of his ministry here, he had to encounter considerable opposition, from his having been settled without the concurrence of the majo- rity of the parishioners. His high character, however, for piety, amiability, and diligence, secured to him the esteem of the pub- * This wa« the first instance of the patron exercising his right of presentation to thu parish since the Rerolution ; ana even at this period the presbytery seem to have proceeded more on the call of the people than on the presentation. Ever since, however, presentations have been issued by the fsmily of Cromertie, " undoubtiKi patrons of the parish of Eddertoun/' ROSS AND CROMARTY. G g 458 ROSS AND CROMARTY. lie, and of those who were at first against him. Mr Miinro died on the 30th October 1820, in the thirty-sixth year of his ministry. Mr Alexander Cameron^ A, A/., Rector of Tain Academy, was licensed by the Presbytery of Tain 12th August 1818, and ordained and admitted to Eddertoun, ISth September 1821. The patroness of the parish, Mrs Hay Mackenzie of Cromartie, in this instance, as in the general exercise of her patronage, consulted the interests and wishes of the people. Mr Cameron, according- ly, received a unanimous call, (dated 21st July 1821,) which con- tributed to his usefulness during an efficient ministry of fourteen years. He died at the early age of forty-two, 5th September 1885. Mr Donald Gordon^ M. A.^ a licentiate of the presbytery of Tongue in Sutherland, was ordained assistant-minister of the parish of Edderachillis, 20th November 1822; admitted to the Parliamentary church of Store, in Assynt, 2d September 1829; and translated and admitted to Eddertoun, 7th April 1836; — and though then a stranger to the patroness, he was presented, (fhe date of presentation being 5th December 1835,) in compliance with the unanimous petition of the heads of families, communi- cants, in the parish. Mr Gordon is the ninth minister of Edder- toun since the Reformation. There is no catechist regularly employed in this parish at pre- sent, but arrangements are being made for procuring one, who will reside permanently. There are two individuals belonging to the United Associate Synod, a remnant of the secession in Nigg, occasioned by a forced settlement there in 1756: they generally attend at a Dissenting meeting-house, which was recently erected in Tain. With the ex- ception of these, the whole of the parishioners are connected with the Established Church, and are very regular church-going people. The average number of communicants is 60, of whom 22 are male heads of families. The probable average amount of church collections yearly for religious and charitable purposes, is L. 30. Education, — There are three schools in the parish, a parochial, Gaelic, and female school, on the second patent of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The parochial school has been established for upwards of a cen- tury, and the salary has been the maximum since 1836. There are at present two schoolmasters, — Mr Finlay Matheson, appoint- ed in the year 1790, who was superannuated in 1836, with a por- EDDERTOUN. 459 tion of the salary of L. 16 per annum ; and Mr David Watson, elected in August 1836, vfao is the acting parochial teacher. There is one additional school required in the heights of the parish. Savings Bank. — There is one connected with this parish, which was established in Tain, January 1840. The minister of the parish is one of the directors. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid may be estimated at 60 ; and the ave- rage sum allotted to each is 7s. 6d. per week. The annual amount of contributions for their relief is about L. t26 ; of which sum L. 7 per annum is contributed by Sir Charles Ross of Balnagown, L. 3 by the Duke of Sutherland, L. 2 by Mr Macleod of Cadboll, and the remaining sum of L. 14 (which is the average for the last four years) arises from church collections. There is generally a disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial aid, as degrading ; but the feeling is decreasing, from pecuniary distress and want of employment Inny 8fc. — There is no fair or market of any kind held in this pa- rish ; and there is only one small inn, or rather alehouse, which is situated on Struy road from Bonar Bridge to Stittenham. Fuel. — The fuel used by the lower orders is peats, and turf, which can be easily procured in the moors, and costs only the trouble of cutting, seasoning, and carrying home. Coals are burnt by the higher classes, and are sold by the Newcastle vessels, which come to the bay of Ardmore, at 16s. 6d. per ton. November 1840. PARISH OF TARBAT. * PRESBYTERY OF TAIN, SYNOD OF ROSS. THE REV. D. CAMPBELL, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries J S^c. — The parish of Tarbat occupies the eastern promontory of the shire of Ross, being bounded on the south and east by the Murray Frith, and on the north by the Dornoch Frith, and terminating in a narrow point called Tarbat Ness, on which an elegant lighthouse has lately been built From the want of woods and enclosures, the parish presents rather a naked appearance. SoiL — The soil is generally light, a great deal of it being sandy ; but a considerable proportion of most of the large farms is a deep black loam, capable of bearing all ordinary farm produce ; and the lighter lands in rainy seasons also give good crops of turnips and grass, from sea-ware, which the neighbouring shores supply in great abundance. A variety of caves occur along the shores of the parish — some pccupied for many months together by bands of tinkers. II. — Civil History. Antiquities, — There is, above the village of Portmaholmack, a green hill, called Chapel Hill, where there was discovered, on le« veiling the ground for new buildings, a number of human bones deposited within rough flags of freestone. There is a beautiful piece of masonic work in the churchyard, called the Dingwalls' Tomb. On the north side of Tarbat Ness, at a creek called Port Chaistel, are the ruins of an old castle, overhanging the sea, and cut off from the land by a deep ditch ; and beside it, on the Black Moor, is the vestige of a Roman camp. Near the site of the lighthouse is the foundation of a monument, built, it is said, by the Romans as a land-mark. Drawn up by Mr George Dunoon, Parochial Schoolmaster of Tarbat. TARBAT. 461 The castle of Baloue is a most ancient building, and perhaps the largest and the most entire now standing in Ross-shire. It is said to have been built by the Earls of Ross. But the last inha- bitants were the Earls of Cromarty, and Alexander Mackenzie of Ardlocb Assint, brother to the late Earl George Mackenzie of Cromarty. It has not been inhabited by any respectable family for 200 years. Fragments of what is said to have been a Danish cross are to be seen scattered among the graves in the church-yard ; and a low green mound, adjoining the eastern gable of the church, is still pointed out as the site on which it stood. Several chests, composed of rough freestone flags, were dug up a few years ago, at a place in the neighbourhood of Portmaholmack, by labourers employed in levelling the ground for new buildings. Each chest contained an entire skeleton, of a size unusually large, and, from the position of the bones, it appeared that the bodies had been doubled. A number of small copper coins, all of Charles L, together with a lady's ring, encircled with the inscription, Finish my desire^ rudely executed, were discovered about twenty years ago in a garden near Balone Castle. The ring is now in the pos- session of George Mackenzie Ross, Esq. of Aldie, and is said to be of considerable value. Parochial Registers. — The only parochial registers extant are, a book in which the minutes of the kirk-session are kept, and another in which births and marriages are recorded. The ear- liest entry in the flrst is in the year 1750, and in the second, 1801. These books have been regularly kept. Land-owners. — Valued Rent. Real Rent/ Gcanies, L. 1834 7 6 Mackay of Rockficld, . 284 Mackenzie Ross of Aldie, . 822 10 L. 202 10 Macleod of Cadboll, . 2138 3 4 2030 12 7 L. 4529 10 Mansion-House. — The house of Geanies is the only mansion- house in the parish. IIL — Population. Amount of population in 1801, 1343 1811, 1379 1821, . 1025 1831, 1809 No. of families, in 1831) engaged in agriculture, 3^ trade, manufacture Si or handicraft, . 246 otherwise engaged, . • 70 462 ROSS AND CROMARTY. IV, — Industry. Plantations. — The plantatioDS in this parish consist of the common Scots fir, elm, ash, beech, oak, hornbeam, sycamore, and hawthorn. The low grounds are boggy, and, though capable of being ren- dered congenial by draining, to the growth of alder, poplar, and willow, nothing has as yet been done in that way of improving them, excepting on the estates of Geanies and RockBeld ; in con- sequence of which, the eastern part of the parish has but a very bare and bleak appearance. The various sorts of timber of which the plantations consist are all planted, and of fifty or sixty years' standing. So dimi- nutive are the trees in point of size, in consequence of not having been properly attended to, that the average produce of thinning and felling for the last four years amounted only to L. 127 per annum. The average produce of gardens and orchards may be estimated at L. 20 per annum. The only kind of insect known here which is not common to any other part of the country, is a small insect^ particularly hurtful to fruit trees. It is covered with a white downy kind of moss, and fastens in hordes round the stems, particularly of pear and apple trees, causing the leaves attached to the fruit stems, which they sometimes ascend to and fasten on, to fall off, and so discolouring the bark as to give it a very unhealthy appearance. Fisheries. — The herring-fishing commences about the middle of July, and continues till September. The fishing ground lies off Tarbat Ness, at the distance of about five miles, and is taken by certain landmarks. Curers engage their boats during the months of November and December, and give a bounty of from L. 5, 5s. to L. 8^ 8s., varying according to the skill of the fisher- men, to each of the different crews at the time of engagement ; and each boat receives in May an advance of about L. 10, to as- sist in making the necessary preparations for sea. The number of boats engaged in fishing for the curers at the different stations in this parish, last season, was about 100 ; and the average take of each boat was 105 cranes, exclusive of many hundreds of barrels carried off, in carts, to various parts of the country. The total number of boats employed in fishing on the coast last season, is said to have been about 300. The haddock and cod-fishing continues from the close to the commencement of the herring- fishing season. The number of salmon taken annually is very in- considerable. Lobsters and several other kinds of shell-fish are 4 TARBAT. 4G3 found in great numbers from May till August, and sold to vessels employed in collecting them for the London market. The fish^ ermen are, in general, industrious and frugal in their habits. Many of them have good houses, and there are a few comparatively wealthy. The only vessel belonging to the place is the property of a fisherman. She is quite new, and cost L. 700. Remarks on the Agricultural state of the Parish since the year 1798. — At the commencement of this period, tlie parish of Tar- bat may be said to have been among the farthest back in the county, with respect to modem husbandry. There was neither grass, turnips, nor wheat sown in any part of the parish, except at the place of Geanies and a little at Bindal. All farming im- plements were of the rudest description. The only carts to be seen, except at the place above-mentioned, were what are called tumblers, or basket carts. The plough had almost no iron about it ; and the usual price for making one was two pecks of oats, the materials being always furnished by the farmer. It was generally drawn by from ten to fourteen oxen, cows, or horses, with the whole family in attendance ; and in the case of small crofts, with the united cattle, ploughmen, and drivers of two or three families, whose deafening clamours may be faintly conceived by those who disturb the inhabitants of a well- stocked rookery. The corn-stacks were generally three in number; one for the laird, one for seed and sale, and one for family use : the barn was filled in the first place. In the case of the larger farms, a stack sometimes consisted of as much as sixty bolls of bear, with twenty of pease on the top, and was never thatched, — the pease being considered sufficient protection from all injury. There were no roads in the parish, nor any harbour on the coast at which grain could be shipped. The village of Portma- holmack, in which there are at present 400 souls, consisted then of three houses and two storehouses for receiving rents, which were all paid in oatmeal and bear. The peasantry were a quiet, decent, industrious people, ready to learn, and of exemplary sobriety, honesty, and piety. Their dress, which was very simple, was almost all home-made. In re- ference to which, it may be worth while mentioning, that, even at church, when, in their best robes, they had among them, except those who came from the place of Geanies, only six hats, and an equal number of printed gowns ; yet they always appeared clean and respectable. 464 ROSS AND CROMARTY. At a later stage in the period above-mentioned, a harbour was built at Portmaholmack, and a herring-fishery established there, wliich, though it is to be regretted that they may be justly charg- ed with having caused a declension in the morality of many of those who are occupied thereabout, are, in other respects, a very consi- derable advantage to the parish. The harbour, from its centrical position, afibrds great convenience to farmers shipping grain ; and the herring garbage, when mixed with earth, is found an excellent manure* In the year 1798, the farm of Mickle Tarrel in the parish was taken on a nineteen years' lease, by a farmer who had studied the most approved system of agriculture in East Lothian. The farm, which then consisted of about 250 acres of arable land, was occu- pied by several small tenants whose lands were in a state of wretch- edness, and their houses afibrded accommodation for neither man nor beast. This farmer brought with him horses and implements of hus- bandry of the very best description from the south, as also farm- servants of his own training. This was the first introduction of modern husbandry to this part of the country, from which the in- troducer obtained the name of Farmer George. In bringing his system into practice, he had at first to contend with many deep- rooted prejudices. Even the proprietor could not then understand how his interests were to be promoted by encouraging his tenants. In the first place, a dwelling«house was to be built, as also a suit- able set of offices, houses, and a thrashing-mill, and a garden, &c enclosed. All this was done at the farmer's expense, without any assistance from the proprietor, and at an outlay of L.1500. The soil being good, and the new system bringing it into favour- able operation, the farmer soon began to reap the reward of his expense and labour, and in the seventh year after his entry, he had the satisfaction of obtaining for his wheat and oats the highest price in Mark Lane, — circumstances which dissipated the opposition of prejudice, and raised up a spirit of imitation. In the year 1802, Mr Archibald Dudgeon, a native of East Lo- thian, took the neighbouring farm of ArboU, which he still occu- pies. He likewise brought with him a choice assortment of farm- ing implements from the same county, as also horses and farm- servants. The latter did not remain long, though with an excel- lent master, and with whom some of his present servants have been for upwards of thirty years. Next, Mr Macleod, the Sherifi'of the TARBAT. 465 county, seeing the good effects of the new system, got a grieve from East Lothian, and commenced farming on the same princi- ple. About the same time, Mr Mackay purchased the lands of Little Tarrel, now RockBeld, and commenced extensive and judi- ciously conducted improvements in a very spirited manner. On the farm of Wester Geanies, the property of Aldie, a great deal was also done. The example was followed by several other farmers, and soon became general in the country,- and the war prices giving encou- ragement to the exertions of agriculturists, the spirit of improve- ment went on with unabated vigour. At the close of the war, Captain Rose returned to the farm of Bindhill, in which he succeeded his father, and, converting his sword into a ploughshare, commenced farming on the new system with great spirit and success, which he has continued to the pre* sent date ; and has now the satisfaction of seeing the subject of his labours and improvements confirmed in the hands of his son-in- law, Mr Chisholm, by a new lease of nineteen years granted at this term ; who, it is confidently hoped, will uphold that benevolent and highly respectable character which the House of Bindal has hitherto maintained. The improvements which thus, in all quarters, made such rapid progress in regard to the soil, were kept pace with by those which respected the external features of the farms. Taking a view of the parish at the present period, we see the tenantry all live in comfortable well-furnished houses, with excellent accommodations for their corn and cattle ; and on all the larger farms, thrashing- mills, one impelled by wind, another by steam, and others by from four to six horses. In short, the parish of Tarbat is as well farmed as any part in the north, and the farmers are highly respectable, intelligent, and hospitable. The largest farms in the parish run from 150 to 850 acres, and the rents from L.1, 15s. to L.2 per acre. The system pursued here is the five and six course ; the four has been tried, and, on the farm of Mickle Tarrel, long practised with success. The country not being pastoral, the farmers here do not rear many cattle or sheep. They keep what is called a flying stock, which, after being well wintered on turnips, are sold at the early markets* Mr Archibald Dudgeon, at one time, had a stock of excellent Highland cows, which he selected from the purest breed in the 466 noSS AND CttOMARTV. country. He coDtinued them for a good many years, always al- lowing them to suckle their calves, and that as long as they chose ; by which means, and every other attention to breeding, he raised such a stock as have returned him L.20 for three-year-olds. From their very high feeding, however, they lost some of those qualities which are esteemed in Highland cattle; yet they still maintained their full beauty of symmetry. Mr Dudgeon may be said to be the only farmer in the parish who has always on hand a large stock of cattle, and these always well flelected and high fed. He also feeds off a great number of wedders on turnips for the southern markets. Of late years, the store-farmers^have been in the habit of send- ing down their hogs to the low-country, where they take turnips at from L. 4 to L. 5 per imperial acre, according to the quality. Sometimes, they are let at so much per bead per week, generally seven farthings ; but the former arrangement is preferred by most farmers. In regard to the turnips, the ordinary practice is, that one-third is drawn for the cattle in the farm-yard, and the remain- der eat off by the sheep. That the breeding of stock is comparatively but little followed up in this quarter, is owing to its being found less profitable, in consequence of the distance from market, See, not that the climate or soil is ungenial, nor the farmer deficient in the art, which has been sufiBciently proved on the &rms of Arboll and Mickle TarreL Of the former we have already spoken on this head, and of the latter we shall only mention that, at a sale there in the year 1824, there were sold a horse for L. 84, a son of his rising four years old for L. 52, 10s., and a saddle mare for L. 52, 10s.; a Highland fat cow for L. 25 ; a Highland bull for L. 50, and an- other for L. 40 ; and for an ox, six years old, that had been fed three years, L.75 were offered. And on one occasion, the farmer refused L.100 for his riding pony. With regard to farm-servants, the system introduced at the commencement of modern husbandry, and practised ever since, on almost all large farms, is what in East Lothian is called the hind system, and which, it may be observed,' is, in most improved dis- tricts in Scotland, considered the best, both as regards the inte- rests of the farmer, and the morality and comfort of the servants. Manufactures. — There are two branches of hemp manufacture carried on in the parish, viz. weaving and spinning. Weaving by 6 men and 3 boys, and spinning by 300 women. This factory is TAUBAT. ^ 467 connected with the establishment of Mackintosh, Grant, and Co. Inverness. Navigation. — The number of vessels that cleared here outwards, since the 1st November 1839, till the 1st November 1840, was 112. The amount of their tonnage 6896. The quantity of grain exported at Portmaholmack for London, Leith, and Liverpool of crop 1839, was 3003 quarters of different kinds. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The whole of the population belong to the Established Church, with the exception of three families of Se- ceders, who have only recently come to the parish. Stipend, 16 chalders, half meal half barley. The glebe, with garden, consists of 6 acres 2 roods. The manse was built in 1806. It is under- going some repairs at present, and receiving an addition. Education. — There are at present three schools in the parish; the parochial school ; an adventure school ; and a Gaelic school, supported by the Gaelic School Society. The parochial school- master has the medium salary, L. 30. He is allowed L.2 in lieu of a garden ; and the average amount of fees received by him is L. 7. No fees are paid by the children attending the Gaelic school. The teacher's salary is L. 25. Poor. — A bequest of L. 100 to the sick and aged poor of her native parish of Tarbat, was lately made by Miss Margaret Mac- leod of Geanies. Average number of poor on the permanent roll for three years, 1835-36-37, 96. Amount distributed, L.17; whereof from church collections, L. 12 ; from mortifications, mortcloths, dues, &c. L.5. December 1840. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THB UNITED COUNTIES OF ROSS AND CROMARTY. The united counties of Ross and Comarty lie between 57^.8, and 58^.10 north latitude, and between 4^ and 5''.46 west longitude. Exclusive of the Island of LfOwis, their superficial extent is about 2424 square miles. Including that island, they form the largest county in Scotland. They are bounded on the north by Suther^ land and the Dornoch Frith ; on the south by Inverness-shire ; on the west by the Western Ocean ; and on the east by the Moray Frith. The breadth of the county from the extreme east at Tar- bat Ness, to the extreme west, is about 85 miles. The county of Cromarty is of small extent, consisting only of one parish, that of Cromarty, and, including all its scattered pen- dicles, containing about 220,800 imperial acres. Towards the end of the seventeenth century, several detached additions were made to this small county. This was done at the instance of the Earl of Cromarty, then Viscount Tarbat, who desired that one county might contain all his lands, wherever situate. These addi- tions consist of a district surrounding Tarbat House, on the north- ern shore of^ the bay of Cromarty ; of a district running from the south side of Dornoch Frith to the Moray Frith ; of two fragments of land on the north of the river Carron ; of a portion of land run- ning northward from the town of Dingwall, and including Castle Leod and part of Ben Wyvis ; of small portions of land to the north of Loch Fannich, and to the north of Loch Nid ; of a dis- trict stretching along the southern shore of Little Lochbroom ; of the large district of Coigeach between the northern shore of Loch- broom and Sutherland; also of the Summer Islands in Lochbroom. It is understood also that Royston or Caroline Park, about two miles from Edinburgh, forms a portion of the county of Cromarty. The county of Ross comprises the districts of Ardross, Easter Ross, Ardmeanach, or the Black Isle, Kintail, Strathcarron, 3 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON ROSS AND CROMARTY. 469 and the Island of Lewis. The western coast is indented by many lochs and bays of the most picturesque description, and often afford- ing excellent havens. The sheriffdoms of Ross and Cromarty were united by the Jurisdiction Act of 1748. The general aspect of the united counties is wild and moun- tainous, — but diversified by glens, rivers, and lochs. The western part of the county abounds in pasture of the best quality : but the agricultural portion of the county is that which extends from Ding* wall along the Frith of Cromarty, onwards in a north-eastern di- rection along the Friths of Moray and Dornoch : there, agricul- ture, having the advantages of a fine climate and fine soil, is of the very best description, and is nowhere excelled in any part of Scot- land. The landed property of the united counties is valued in the cess-books at L. 75,043, 10s. dd. Scots. In 1815, the annual value of real property was rated at L. 12 1,557. The Parliament- ary constituency in 1839 was 710. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS Table L — Shewing Ecclesiastical State, &e. Patiiho. ^ l>dr,K;hi.i "S ^'6 1^ A maun 1 of Purochinl Mi Salary Fees. '" m ll nuten'ttipeitd 1 1 CRiaiul7, iST^m AIL IGcbalden. ~ K^i^X '*^ '«> i-i '.'.', loGh^den ■2 L.S4"0 ( L. SO A C-allicuJdeo '^*^ **' ISehalden. 30 ^ 10 U^ ExMr. 9W 330 ... ... . ... Uduidcn. W Kilmuit W««- J, „ v«rf» ill ... I3»15d»ldn»m 1479 ..- Do. 145 bolfa but 51 do. mod. 2 30 AIL ... ... !lBchdden. 8 34 a 6 liiniriort.. +«A ... AIL I~2t0. 9 30 3 4 .\i.|.w«oB. .iHaj X-ri, ■IL L.156I. 5 25 8 LochwTon. laisG All. I..13a 34 15 H91 AIL L.150. i's aa I 20 BarTv, ie« Atl. L, 156. 3 28 tf I ivs. ■ ao4i AM. L.150. 5 28 5 iJS^ 9007 All. 1.. 150. KiDuii. 12V 1,. 170. CleiHbiel, 71b Smrlj UlV L.150. 28"'o 2"*0 L.75 L.I72 40 Z { "■'■■ ::; 23 15 30 3 [nl. orL.150. 30 40 ,. ... 10 ( L,3 21 31 10 IG 33 (1 40 '.'.'. 10 8 lnt.ofL.C0. e 32 ff 30 52 SO B 3 33 '.'.'. 9"o '.'.'. 30'"0 3 [nc of L.70. 74 40 U I 50 Int. of L. 1000. 100 "d 7 InLnfL.71. 50 30 Int. of I. 900, Sj 32 L.9 40 36 72 55 1 Int^ofL.SOOO, Int. of L.BI30. L.75 or i-.BO. 44 22"'o tf L.17 30 M 4 11 -^0 £0 ' ;; '.'.'. ... 50 ]7 ( Int. of L.400. tnt.on,.auo. 42 ., ... 13 1.6 19 4a r ::: 2o'"'o 55 D 4r"o 1 ..'. '". u'o t u'o e 28 6 37 12 "i 17 N. B. — Tlio pmaluments of the parochial tchoolmaslers ititcd in i not include what tliey dEiire from other sourcea lh«n (he ial»ry uitl * 472 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS, &C. Table IL — Shewing Extent, &c. of Parishes in the County of Ross and Cromarty. Acres cul. i3o. sup Acres in ti fated or Acres un- pos. cap* Acres Parishes. parish. occasion. cultiTated of cultiv. under in tillage. with prof. wood. Cromarty, 7068 2047 5021 _^ 1855 Nigg, I-. 2500 2100 4000 1000 Kirkmichacl & Cu11i6uddcn ^■^ ^"" ^^ ^^ "^ Ix>gtc Easter, ... _ .. ..1. _ KilmuirWest cr and Suddy. 10284 3457 6826 — 3495 Killcaman, ^^ ... .. ^^ Loch broom, .. ^^ .. .. Gairloch, ... ... .. ... 5000 Applecross, .^ 1800 ... 450 400 Lochcarron, ^^ 1238 .^ 200 1500 Stornoway, 18482 2700 15782 10000 .. Barvas, 14103 1468 126a5 iB. ... Uig. . ..- 2840 91618 «_ -— I^ochs, ^_ 2500 See text - iB. Kintail, _ _ _^ __ ^« Glcnshiel, 71050 280 71600 50 70 Dingwall, _ 2388 3168 200 .. Contin, ._ ^ - - ... Fodderty, — — ... ^. ... I^ochalsht — 1477 50544 .^ 2147 Rosskecn, — 3900 33000 _^ 3000 Tain, . ^^ _ .... ^^ ^__ Kilmuir East. wm^ 2500 14500 ^.^^ 4500 Kilteam, _ 3000 ^. ^. ^,. Alness, _ .i_ __ ^^ ^.^ Kosi'markie, ... ... ... ^^ 837 Fearn, _ 3712 2,581 .. Urquhart, — 4860 6479 ^^ a56 Aroch, 6198 ^^ ^_^ ^^^ •HMM Kincardine, _ .. ^^ ^^^ ^^M Eddertoun, _ ^„„ ^^ Tarbat, — ^^ — — — {7I^^._ Acres here stated are Scotch. N* B.— The acres uocultivated include those under wood, and those capable of cultivation. PRINTED BY JOHN STARK, OLD ASSFMRLY CLOSE, EDIXRVRGlf. INDEX. Academy, subscription, of Tain, 297 — of Fortrose, 858 Achall, Loch, 74 Achilty, loch, 236 Agriculture and rural economy, 12, d2, 58, 68, 84, 97, 102, 112, 130, 148, 154, 165, 177,203, 224, 240, 258, 261, 273, 293, 307, 324, 343, 355, 362, 375, 395, 451 Alcaig, baibour of, 378 Alness, parish of, 332— river, 264, 334 — viUage of, 346 Antiquities, 28, 45, 53, 57, 83, 126, 144, 153, 163, 176, 194, 221, 237, 252, 270, 320, 353 361, 417, 460 Applecross, parish of, 99 Ardintoul bay, 186 Ardmore harbour, 453 Arkendeith tower, ruins of 390, 391 Aultgraad river, the, 314, 334 Aurora borcalis, remarkable appearance of, 40 Avoch, parish of, 381 — bum, 383 — castle, ruins of, 390 Balintore, town of, 360 Ballintruid, harbour of, 309 Balnagown castle, 305 — forest, 403 — river, 264, 302 Balone castle, ruins of, 461 Barvas, bay of, 142 — pariith of, 141 Bealach, pass of, 171 Beauly frith, 64 — river, 171 Ben Vaichard, 268 Ben Wyvis,21d, 215, 244, 313 Bernera, island of, 155 Bethune, Dr, of Rosskeen, 277 Big stone of Morangie, the, 284 BUr-na-paire, battle of, 255 — stones commemorating, 254 Boarlan locb, 403 Bonar bridge, pier, and village, 422 Botany, 24, 43, 65, 77, 93, 124, 144, 162, 174, 191, 216, 251, 265, 368, 387,405 Brager, bay of, 142 Brahan castle, 366 Broad bay, the, 117 Bruce's queen and daughter, capture of, at St Duthus, 287 Bundalloch, village of, 178 Burying-plaoe, ancient, 406 CadboU castle, ruins of, 361 Cairns, ancient, 7, 53, 22 — in Ross- keen, 270 ROSS AND CROMARTY. Cairn- Coinneag, mountaiii of, 363 Cam, Miss Mackenzie, bequest by, 125 Cambuscurry bay, 435 — ^hill, 434 Carchuinaig, mountain, 404 Carloway. district of, 167— Danish fort at, 153 — ito capture by Donald Caum, 163 Carron river, 107 Castle Leod, ruins of, 255 Castlecraig, ruins of, 45 Cattle and live-stock, breeds of, 154 160, 204, 226, 240, 273, 307, 824, 421, 465 Cave, the seal, 117 Caum, Donald, 157, 168 Ceannard water, 74 Chambers of Onnond, birth-place of, 389 Chanonry, town of, 350 Chapelhill, remains found at, 460 Character, &c., see Population Churches and chapels connected with the Establishment, 12, 14, 15, 36, 51, 54, 62, 70, 83, 86, 97, 104, 113, 137, 149, 155. 167, 179, 207, 230, 241, 258, 261, 276, 296, 309, 327. 346, 862, 378, 396, 423, 453, 467 Climate, see Meteorology Clishem, bill of, 159 C'luonie, lake of, 182 Clyne, Druidical remains at, 321 Coins, ancient, found at Roseroarkie, 354 Conan, Conon, or Connon river, 40, 215, 236, 400— bridge, 378— vUlage, 377 Contin, parish of, 235 Copper mines of Kisbom, 100 Coul house, 288 Craig^n-Thiach, bUl of, 246 Craigdarroch house, 241 Creed river, the, 160 Croe river, the, 172 Cromarty, bay of, 2, 20— frith, 40, 214, 263, 338, 366— hiU, 4— parish of, 1 — town of, 15 Cromore, harbour of, 167 Cromwell's fort, remains of, at Fortrose, 851 Culbokie, village of, 377 Danish forts, remains of, at Bragar, 145 —at Carloway, 153, 163— at Kincar. dine, 417 — at Raricbie, 24 — monu- mental stones, 28 Hb