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f-w-^Ufrsumsisssssii 



THE NEW 

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT 



OF 



S C T LAND. 



VOL. XV. 



THE NEW 



STATISTICAL ACCOUNT 



OF 



SCOTLAND. 



BY 



THK MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE 
SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY 

FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND 
DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. 



VOL. XV. 

SUTHERLAND-CAITHSESS-ORKNEY-SHKTLAND- 

GKNERAI, INDEX. 



WILLIAM BLACKWOOD •AND SONS, 

EDINBURGH AND LONDON. 

MDCCCXLV. 



SUTHERLAND. 



CONTENTS. 



A8SYNT, - - - - PAGE 105 

CLYNK, - - - - 149 

CRIECH, - - - - 17 

DORNOCH, .... 1 

DURNESS, .... 82 

EDDERACHILUS, - - -118 

KARR, .... 66 

UOLSPIE, - - - - 24 

KILDONAN, .... 133 

LAIRG, •> - - - j8 

LOTH, .... 188 

ROGART, ... 46 

TONGUE, - - - - 164 



Ml. 



' *j 



r 



S2r7f 



PARISH OF DORNOCH. 

PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. ANGUS KENNEDY, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — " The town and parish of Dornoch," says the writer of 
' the last Statistical Account, " derive their name from the Gaelic 
words Dom^Eich^ which signify a horse's foot or hoof, — there be- 
ing a current tradition to this eflfect: — About the year 1259, the 
Danes and Norwegians having made a descent on this coast, were 
. attacked by William, Thane or Earl of Sutherland, a quarter of 
\' a mile to the eastward of this town. Here the Danish general was 
~.) slain, and his army beaten, and forced to retire to their ships, 
t^ which were not far distant. The Earl of Sutherland greatly 
signalized himself upon this occasion ; and appears, by his personal 
• valour and exertion, to have contributed very much to determine 
.^the fate of the day. While he singled out the Danish general, 
- and gallantly fought his way onward, the Thane, being by some 
accident disarmed, seized the leg of a horse which lay on the ground, 
and with that despatched his adversary. In honour of this exploit, 
and of the weapon with which it was achieved, this place received 
the name of Dorneich, or Dornoch, as it is now called. This tra- 
dition is countenanced by the horse-shoe, which is still retained in 
the arms of the burgh." 

Extent and Boundaries. — This parish extends in breadth 9 miles 
from E. to W. along the coast of the Frith of Dornoch ; and in 
length from S. to N. or N. W. about 15 miles. It is bounded 
on the east by the Little Ferry, which separates it from the pa- 
rish of Golspie ; on the north and west by the parishes of Ro- 
gart and Criech ; and on the south by the Dornoch Frith, which 
separates it from the county of Ross. 

The parish may be considered as a sort of peninsula ; the Dor- 
noch Frith, which extends considerably beyond it, bounding it on 
the south, and the estuary of the Little Ferry on the east, which 

SUTHERLAND. A ' 



2 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

runs up to the Earthen Mound, rising with a gradual inclination 
from the sea to a range of hills behind. 

Topographical Appearances. — There are no high grounds in this 
parish which deserve the name of mountain, although the name has , 
been given to some of them, as Beintarvie, &c There is a ridge 
of hills behind Skibo, another behind Rearchar, and a third in 
the vicinity of TorboU. The ground on the side of the parish 
next the sea is generally flat ; in some places almost a dead level, 
with the exception of some sandy hillocks, interspersed here and 
there, some of which are naked, and some half-clad with bent and 
whins, afibrding a place of refuge for rabbits. 

There are two valleys, or, more property speaking, straths, in 
this parish : the one. Strath Caimaig, formed by the rivpr Cair- 
naig. This valley stretches south from Torboll for the space of 
some miles. The other. Strath Achvaich, is near the source of 
the river Evlix, and is of no great extent 

There is a considerable stretch of sea-coast in the parish, from the 
extreme point of the Meickle Ferry on the west, down the Dornoch 
Frith, to the mouth of the Little Ferry on the east, — and thence up 
that estuary for some miles. The shore is flat and sandy, with the 
exception of a few small rocks to the east of the town, and on the 
shore of Embo. At the Little Ferry, there is an excellent harbour, 
where vessels may lie in great security, after having got over the 
bar which runs across the entrance. Coal ships also drop anchor 
below the town to discharge their cargoes. 

Meteorology^ 8^c. — The'climate may be called mild and healthy,* 
considering the northern latitude. Snow seldom remains long on 
the sea-coast ; and for several years there have not been the same 
heavy and long-continued falls of snow and the same intense frosts 
as in former times. 

Among the prognostics of unfavourable weather may be noticed 
the tremendous noise that proceeds from the sand banks called 
Gizzing^Briggs^ so called from the peculiar sound they make. 
These banks lie almost in the middle of the channel betwixt the 
northern side of the Frith of Dornoch and the coast of the parish 
of Tarbet, and render the navigation up the Frith extremely dan- 
gerous, especially to strangers, without the assistance of a pilot. 
It is observed, also, that the appearances of the Aurora borealis, 

* As a proof of the mildness of our climate, pheasants have been recently intro- 
duced at Skibo : they are doing well, and are likely to increase. Walnuts also fre- 
quenUy ripen in the garden at Skibo ; and a very fine Ilex tree growing there is a 
proof of the fiivourable climate. 



DORNOCH. 3 

which are sometimes very vivid, are commonly followed by cold and 
stormy weather. 

The prevaittng distempers are rheumatism, consumption, and 
inflammatory fevers. 

Hydrography. — The Frith of Dornoch extends at least twenty 
miles beyond this parish. From the Meickle Ferry to the Little 
Ferry, the water is stronglj^'impregnated with salt, and is found ex- 
cellent for bathing during the summer months. — In the hilly part 
of the parish, there are a few lakes, in which a variety of trouts 
is found, but generally small, and little sought after. — In this 
parish there are the rivers Carnaig and Evlix. The Carnaig 
takes its rise some miles south of Torboll, and empties itself 
into the Fleet on the sands of Torboll, up to which the tide 
at one time flowed, till arrested by the Earthen Mound. The 
Evlix takes its rise about the head of Strath Achvaich ; and, after 
running about eight or nine miles, with a considerable population 
on each side of it, and its banks beautifully wooded with natural 
birch and alders, it empties itself into the Dornoch Frith, not far 
from the Meickle Ferry. These rivers are not large ; but during 
winter thaws, or heavy rains in summer, they rise rapidly, overflow 
their banks, and in their progress sometimes do considerable 
damage to corn lands. 

Mineralogy, — Coal was found at Clashmore in this parish ; it 
was submitted to Sir Humphry Davy's inspection, and by him pro- 
nounced to be similar to that of Brora. The seam is said to tra- 
verse Ross-shire, and become visible in Coigach. There is a con- 
^siderable freestone quarry in the neighbourhood of this town, from 
which stones for building houses and erecting fences are taken. 
There is another on the estate of Embo ; and several inferior ones, 
fit for fences, have recently been discovered in other parts of the 
parish. 

Zoology, — In this parish are to be found badgers, foxes, otters, 
hares, rabbits, roe-deer, and occasionally red-deer ; also grouse, 
black game, partridges, &c. 

There is nothing in this parish that deserves the name of a 
salmon fishing. Abundance of excellent cockles may be found near 
the town when the tide recedes, and westward to the Meickle Fer- 
ry. They are much sought after in their season, and carried to 
a considerable distance in the interior of the country. 

There are also two muscle-scalps near the Meickle Ferry, the 
property of Mr Dempster of Skibo. The Buckie fishermen re- 



4 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

pair thither with their large boats for bait, and pay a certain sum 
to the proprietor for each boat-load. 

IL — Civil History. 

Eminent Men. — Among the eminent men connected with this 
parish may be mentioned Sutherland, Lord Duffus, who had a re- 
sidence in Skelbo, the ruins of which are still visible: also the Gor- 
dons of Embo, now represented by Sir Orford Gordon, who re- 
sides in England. The heads of these families acted a conspi- 
cuous part in the feudal quarrels and wars of their times. 

Connected with this parish also, by purchase of lands and by re- 
sidence, were George Dempster, Esq. of Dunnichen, and John Ha- 
milton Dempster, Esq. his brother. These gentlemen were of a 
younf^r branch of the ancient family of Dempster of Muresk, in 
the county of Aberdeen, as may be seen by reference to Douglas' 
Baronage of Scotland : * and their grandfather had acquired, 
shortly after the year 1700, the estate of Dunnichen, in Forfar- 
shire, which is now the property, and gives the designation, of the 
elder branch of his descendants. 

Mr George Dempster purchased the estate of Skibo in the year 
1786, and Mr J. H. Dempster shortly after purchased the estates 
of Pulrossie and Over- Skibo. The estates of Skibo and Over- 
Skibo had been purchased from gentlemen of the name of Gray. 
But the estate of Skibo had also been possessed for a few years 
-previous to the last Mr Gray by the Honourable George Mackay 
of Reay, by whom the older portions of its woods were planted, and 
to whoso taste and industry that part of the parish is much in- 
debted. 

Mr George Dempster was for twenty-eight years member of Par- 
liament for the Dundee and St Andrews district of burghs. He 
was most active and assiduous in devising measures himself, and in 
encouraging measures planned by others, which had for th^r ob- 
ject the improvement of his native country. He took an active and 
leading part in promoting its manufactures, its fisheries, and its agri- 
culture. He was a gentleman of great benevolence and suavity of 
manners. While he and his brother remained in Skibo, they were 
much respected by all ranks; and as landlords, they were kind and 
indulgent to their tenants. Mr Dempster died a. d. 1818^ aged 86. 

The noble family of Sutherland have a burying-place within the 
church, where the mortal remains of several of its members are 
laid. Over it a neat monument has been erected to the memory of 
the last Earl and the Countess of Sutherland, the parents of the now 

• P. 5iU, 



DORNOCH. 5 

Duchess Countess of Sutherland, who both died in the flower of 
youth, the one ten days after the other, at Bath, in the year 1766, 
and were buried in one grave in the church at Holyrood- House. 
His lordship had only attained the age of thirty-two, and her lady- 
ship that of twenty-six. This amiable pair were not less ennobled 
by their shining virtues than by their high rank. Their humane 
dispositions and condescending manners had greatly endeared them 
to all orders of society : and their untimely death was deeply felt 
and universally deplored. 

A melancholy event which occurred in July 1833 added to the 
number of those belonging to the noble family of Sutherland, whose 
mortal remains are deposited in the cathedral of Dornoch. George 
Granville Leveson Gower, first Duke of Sutherland, died at Dun- 
robin Castle on the 19th day of July 1833. His Grace's remains 
are laid in a place prepared for them in the south aisle of the ca- 
thedral ; over which, it is said, the Duchess Countess of Sutherland 
proposes to raise a statue of his Grace, to be executed by Chantry 
of London. The death of the Duke of Sutherland produced a 
deep and universal feeling of regret among all ranks in this country; 
for his Grace was highly respected by all as a nobleman of most 
honourable principles, and having the comfort of his numerous te- 
nantry at heart* His funeral was attended by the gentlemen and 
tenantry of thirteen parishes in this county, and by the tenantry 
of four parishes from his Grace's estates in Ross-shire ; and the 
procession strikingly testified to the high estimation in which his 
Grace was held, f 

Land-owners, — These are, the Duchess Countess of Sutherland ; 
George Dempster, Esq. of Skibo; Major George Gunn Munro 
of Poyntzfield; and Mrs Gordon of Embo. None of the principal 
land-owners reside in the parish, except Mr Dempster, 

Parochial Registers, — A register of baptisms has been kept, 
though sometimes not very regularly, since 13th August 1730 ; and 
a register of marriages, since 13th August 1734. These registers 
have been always under the charge of the parochial schoolmaster 
for the time being, who acts also as clerk to the kirk-session, and 
receives a small fee for every act of registration. When the school 

• Vide Golspie. 

f While preparations were making in the cathedral for the Duke of Sutlierland's 
funeral, a leaden coffin was discovered in the buiying-placeof tlic noble family, having 
a plate bearing an inscription that it contained the remains of John, the twentieth 
Earl of Sutherland, who " died June 27, 1733," a little more than a century before 
the Duke's death. His Lordship's coffin was covered with another, and laid up with 
all due reject and care in the same burying-placc again. 



6 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

became vacant, the registration was much neglected. Since the year 
1817, however, both registers have been kept correctly. 

Great inconvenience, and even loss to individuals, having been 
experienced from the want of a register of deaths, to which refe- 
rence could be made, — a register of that description has been kept 
by the minister of the parish since January 1821, which, if con- 
tinued by his successors, may prove useful to succeeding genera- 
tions. 

Antiquities. — The picturesque remains of the old castle of Skel- 
bo, formerly the residence of the family of Sutherland, Lord Duf- 
fus, still remain. This castle was built on an eminence, rising ab- 
ruptly from the sea side, near the Little Ferry. 

The castle of Skibo, once a residence of the Bishops of Caith- 
ness and Sutherland, was demolished in the last century. Within 
its walls the celebrated Marquis of Montrose was confined subse- 
quently to his being taken in Assynt ; and from Skibo he was con- 
veyed to Edinburgh, where he was executed. 

In memory of the event which gave its name to the burgh, a 
stone pillar was erected on the spot, supporting at the top a cross, 
encompassed by a circle, which went under the name of the 
Earl's cross. The lapse of ages had, however, somewhat defaced 
this monument. But it has been repaired, and is still standing. 

III. — Population. 
By the Government census of 1821, the population of the town 

and parish was found to be 3100. By the census of 1831, it was 
3380 ; and would have been 300 more, had there not been a par- 
tial emigration to British America to that amount from the parish 
during that and the previous year. It is but justice to the landed 
proprietors to add, that this emigration was purely voluntary on 
the part of the emigrants ; that most of them left the parish in 
comfortable circumstances ; and that the situations which they left 
open were soon occupied by others. The population, it may be 
safely asserted, is still on the increase. 

The increase of population may be accounted for by persons" of 
various classes coming from the east and south country, and settling 
in the parish, — by a general inclination to marry young : when 
out farm-servants, of whom the number is considerably increased 
by the erection of large farms, get barracks for themselves, they 
marry : when a young man gets a croft of land, he marries : 
when a fisherman becomes possessed of a quarter share of a boat, 
he builds a house, and marries. Second marriages also, of which 



DORNOCH. 7 

there are not a few, contribute to the increase of the population. 
There is one instance of a marriage in which both parties were 
married for the fourth time. 

1. Number of fiunilite in the parish, .... 644 

chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 59& 

in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 41 

2. The aferage number of marriages, for 7 years, - - 21-f 

births, for the same period, - . 82^ 

of the whole number of births during the 7 years, 900 were males, and 279 females. 
aTerage number of deaths, for 7 years, ... 441 

There is 1 person insane in the parish; 3 fatuous ; 3 blind, — 2 
of them by small-pox; and 1 dumb. 

Language^ Habits^ Sfc. of the People. — The vernacular language 
is still the Gaelic ; from which also almost all the names of places 
are manifestly derived. In that language, haile signifies a town. 
Hence Tor-^aile^ Kerr^haile^ Eun-iaile^ Skia-baile^ compounded 
of that word and others, signifying respectively mount, rock, fowl, 
wing; and these names indicate the figure, situation, or other cir- 
cumstances of the places to which they are applied. Some places 
in the vicinity of the cathedral have been denominated from the 
offices of those who formerly held them ; as Crofn Espig^ Au^ 
chintreasurich^ Auchinchanter^ signifying the Bishop's, Treasurer's, 
and Chanter's fields. This language has, however, lost ground 
considerably during the last twenty-five years, owing to the influx 
into the parish, from various parts of the kingdom, of persons who 
speak the English language, but especially to the introduction of 
schools, first Gaelic and then English, into every district of the parish . 
The predilection for the Gaelic language is, however, still manifest, 
from the well-known facts, that the common people prefer to use 
it in their ordinary intercourse, and that larger congregations at- 
tend public worship during the Gaelic services than during the 
English. Nevertheless, the English is making rapid encroach- 
ments on our ancient language; and it is not improbable that, 
in the course of sixty or seventy years, the latter may be ex- 
tinct. 

The habits of the people in regard to cleanliness have improved 
considerably. Instead of their feal-houses, in which it was scarcely 
possible to maintain cleanliness, they have now generally neat cot- 
tages, built of stone and clay, and harled with lime, having chim- 
nies, instead of the fire-place being in the middle of the house, as 
formerly, — there being then no outlet for smoke except by the 
door, or a hole in the roof. 

A great improvement has also taken place in their dress, parti- 



8 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

cularly Id that of the young of both sexes. This also they have 
learned from those who came from other parts to reside in the 
parish. 

Potatoes have become the principal article of food here, as, in- 
deed, they are throughout all the Highlands. They serve as the 
chief subsistence of the people during one-half of the year, and 
with some even for two-thirds. Many of the people come from 
a a>nsiderable distance for cockles, of which abundance may be 
had in their season on the sands of Dorno(;h. They go also for 
haddocks to the fishing town of Embo ; and since the herring-fish- 
ing was established at Helmsdale, many go there, purchase and 
cure herrings, and carry them home in casks in their own small 
carts : they thus provide themselves with wholesome food. 

The people here are rather above the middle size. They are 
in general well-made and handsome, and the women, comely. 
On the whole, they are a moral and religious people ; industri- 
ous, peaceable, and respectful to their superiors. With very few 
exceptions they regularly attend public worship ; and their decent 
appearance on Sabbath days indicates their comfortable circum- 
stances. 

Poaching and illicit distillation are now scarcely known among 
them. 

During the last three years there were 4 illegitimate births : 
but in three of the cases the parties were afterwards married. 

IV.— Industry. 
Agriculture and Rural Economy, — During the last fifteen or 

twenty years agricultural improvements have been carried on with 
wonderful activity, and to a great extent, in this parish, especially 
on the Sutherland estate. On that estate, there are 4000 acres of 
• arable land under the plough, besides 2000 acres of waste ground 
improved, and carrying crops. 

Improvements. — Among the improvements on waste-land it may 
be mentioned that the fresh-water lake, at a place called Balvraid, 
near the county road, has been thoroughly drained and prepared, 
and is now laid down in crop. The highly improved appearance 
of the spot holds out a prospect of remunerating \he expense in a 
few years. It may be observed also, that, by the erection of tjie 
earthen mound across the estuary of the Little Ferry, from thirty 
to forty acres of valuable carse ground, over which the tide for- 
merly used to flow, have been brought under the plough, and are 



DORNOCH. 9 

now carrying heavy crops of wheat, &c. A still greater extent has 
been reclaimed on the Grolspie side of the estuary. 

The Contents of the principal farms on the Sutherland estate 
may be stated as follows : — Sidera, 196 acres ; Evlix, 154 ; Farms, 
(1820, 1821, 1822,) 344; Achley, 91; Pitgrudie, 133; Auchurach 
andAuchinchaunter, 84; Coull; 203; Skelbo,323; East Balvraid, 
192; West Balvraid, 54; Cambusmore, 104; Torboll, 145; 
Pronsienain, 89 ; Pronsienaird, 132 ; Kinauld, 100 ; Trentham, 
150, — all imperial acres. The parks are, at an average, from 10 
to 15 acres each. The average rent of old arable land is L. 1, 5s. 
per acre ; — that of improved waste land, 5s. 

Besides the principal farms which have been stated above, there 
are a great many lots, or small holdings, ranking from two to five 
or six acres, which are receiving yearly accessions from waste 
land by the industry of the occupiers ; and though the average 
rent of improved waste land be stated at 5s. per acre, it is a well- 
known fact, that many of these cottars pay only a rent of Is. each, 
some 2s., and so on, in a gradual scale, — an increase of rent not 
being so much the object of the noble proprietors, as the improve- 
ment of the soil, and the comfort of their numerous tenantry ; in 
which liberal objects they have succeeded. 

On the estate of Skibo there are 800 acres of arable land : and 
besides a great number of smaller holdings, there are four large 
farms, highly improved, and rented each at about L. 150. On 
this estate also, a good deal has been done in reclaiming waste 
land ; but much more in the parish of Criech, where the greater 
part of Mr Dempster's estate lies, and in which he has very ex- 
tensive plantations of firs and hard-wood. 

On the estate of the Duchess Countess of Sutherland in this 
parish, there are plantations to the extent of 2500 acres, consisting 
of Scotch firs and larches, birch, and hard-wood. To these it is 
in contemplation to make considerable additions. There are be- 
sides 300 acres of natural birch and alder. 

On Mr Dempster's estate there are plantations to the extent 
of 350 acres, a considerable part of which is hard-wood. There 
are some ashes and planes of great size. The rest consists of 
Scotch firs and larches. On the estate of Embo there may be 
from 30 to 40 acres of Scotch fir, but, though old, very stinted in 
growth. 

On the estate of Embo there is only one large farm, consist- 
ing of about 200 acres of arable land, of which from 30 to 40 



10 SUTHERLANDSHIKE. 

have been reclaimed from waste land. It is enclosed and subdi- 
vided by stone fences, and in a high state of cultivation. The 
rest of the estate is let to small tenants^ and they, of late, have 
adopted a rotation of crops. 

Major Gunn Munro's estate in this parish lies in the vicinity of 
the burgh, and the greater part of it is well-farmed by a gentleman 
residing in the town. The rest of it is also well-farmed by two in- 
dustrious individuals, who now grow wheat, where they formerly cut 
peats. 

The steadings on the large farms throughout the parish are 
generally good and commodious. Attached to several of them 
is a thrashing-machine. These are of various powers, according 
to the size of the farm. Some of them are wrought by water, and 
some by horses. 

The ordinary duration of leases here is nineteen years. 

Live-stock, — As to the live-stock in the parish, it is only ne- 
cessary to observe, that the breeds of black cattle and horses, 
particularly the latter, have been greatly improved of late years. 
Cheviot sheep have also been introduced into store farms, and have 
succeeded well. 

Husbandry, — The five-course shift is the rotation of crops 
adopted in the parish, — 1. oats ; 2. turnips and potatoes ; 3. barley 
and grass seeds ; 4. hay or pasture ; and, 5. pasture. On account 
of the low price of barley, the wheat husbandry has been recently 
introduced. The produce is sent on consignment to Leith, where 
it is sold at the prices of the time ; but the grower has to submit 
to a heavy deduction for freight, agency, &c. — not less than. 4s. 
per quarter. 

Bute of Wages, — The wages of farm-servants are various. The 
principal servant has generally L. 8 per annum, six bolls of oat- 
meal, a pint of skimmed milk per diem, or an agreed equivalent 
for it, — some eight, some ten barrels of coals, a certain extent of 
land for potatoes, and a free house. Young men hired by the 
half-year have from L. 2 to L. 2, 10s., with cost and lodgings. 
The wages of female-servants for the half-year are generally from 
L. 1, 10s. to L. 2, with victuals in the house. The wages of able- 
bodied men for day-labour are* from Is. to Is. 6d. ; those of the 
women, 6d., except when at harvest work, when they have Is. ; but 
no victuals in either case. 

The daily operations of various kinds that are necessary on 



DORNOCH. 1 1 

large farms furnish employment to all in their vicinity who are able 
and willing to work. 

Quarries, 8fc. — There is a considerable freestone quarry in the 
neighbourhood of this town, from which stones for buUding houses 
and erecting fences are taken : and there have been several other 
quarries recently opened in other parts of the parish ; but none 
of these are equal to that in the vicinity of Dornoch, except one 
at Embo. 

Fisheries. — There is no regular fishery in the parish. There 
is, indeed, a colony of fishermen at Embo ; but they only fish for 
haddocks, small cods, flounders, &c. which they sell in the fresh 
state. The women carry the fish in creels on their backs to this 
town, and throughout the parish, and sell it as they best can. The 
fishermen also frequently go across with their boats to the shore 
of Tain, where they dispose of their fish to advantage. Of late 
years they have engaged in the herring-fishing, by hiring them- 
selves to fish-curers for the season, — the fish deliverable in the fresh 
state at so much per crane, and the nets being provided by the fish- 
ermen. The curers allow a certain quantity of whisky to each 
boat's crew. To the credit of the fishermen at Embo, it should 
be observed, that, with a few exceptions, they are sober and in- 
dustrious, and some of them pious. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Burgh. — Dornoch is the only market-town in the parish, and 

the only Royal Burgh in the county. It was erected into a royal 
burgh by a charter from Charles I. a. d. 1628. The council consists 
of fifteen members, including the provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, 
and treasurer. By the constitution and practice of the burgh, four 
of the councillors are annually changed. This is one of five which 
compose what is called the northern district of burghs. It has no 
landed property, nor any other source of revenue except the cus- 
toms levied at six annual fairs held here, and which are on the de- 
cline. But this may be accounted for by the recent establishment 
of two other fairs, — one in the village of Golspie, and another in 
the parish of Clyne, — and by the great number of retail-shops 
found here and there through the parish and the county. 

The population of the town is little more than 500, but appears 
to be rather on the increase. The Sheriff-substitute and Sheriff- 
clerk, one writer, two messengers-at-arms, reside in the town. We 
have also a post-office. The northern royal mail-coach passes through 
the town twice every day. This is an advantage to the burgh, as 



12 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

strangers travelling by the coach for business or for pleasure, may 
find good entertainment in a commodious and well-kept inn. 

There are here also five retail-shopkeepers, two saddlers, one 
baker, one butcher, (though not in constant employment,) three 
blacksmiths, three shoemakers, several house-carpenters, masons, 
tailors, and weavers. 

Within the last twenty years there was a considerable number 
of small uncomfortable feal-houses in the town ; but these gradual- 
ly gave way to neat and comfortable cottages, most of them two 
stories high. The streets are clean, and the approaches to the 
town from every quarter have been much improved. The com- 
munication with the town is open in every direction by excellent 
roads and bridges, which are kept in annual repair. The Maca- 
damizing system is adopted on the county roads. Indeed, the 
whole parish is intersected with roads and bridges ; and with these 
there is another great advantage, — there are no tolls. Not a toll 
is to be seen in the county of Sutherland. Hence, carriages, gigs, 
and carts may be seen on Sabbath days carrying some of the good 
people to church. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands in the middle of the 
town. It consists of three aisles of the old cathedral, — the fourth 
has been long in ruins ; but these venerable ruins point out to the 
admiring beholder what was their ancient grandeur. 

Dornoch was formerly the seat of the Bishop of Caithness. 
The precise time of the erection of the See is not ascertained. 
Andrew, Bishop of Caithness, had his seat here in 1150: and in 
1222, Gilbert Murray was consecrated bishop. The latter is sup- 
posed to have built the cathedral. He died at Scrabster, in Caith- 
ness, where the bishops also had a residence in 1245; and was af- 
terwards canonized. A statue of him is still shewn in the church 
of Dornoch, under the name of St Gilbert, but it is not entire. The 
last bishop, Andrew Wood, was translated hither from the Isles 
in the year 1680, and remained till the Revolution in 1688. 

In the year 1570, the cathedral, (except the steeple,) was burnt 
by the master of Caithness ; but it " hath been of late re-edified 
and repaired by Sir Robert Gordon, tutour of Southerland, which 
work was interprysed and begun by John Erie of Southerland, 
last deceased, a little before his death." At what time the ca- 
thedral received its present roof, which is comparatively modem, 
I cannot ascertain. For a long time after it was occupied as a 

Presbyterian place of worship, the congregation met on the 

3 



DORNOCH. 13 

ground-floor, — which was also occupied as a burying-ground for fa- 
milies of distinction. But this was found to be most inconvenient 
and unwholesome, both for the minister and congregation, the roof 
being stupendously high, and the house very cold in winter. To 
remedy these inconveniences, it was agreed by all concerned, about 
sixty years ago, that the church should be lofted at the height 
of seven feet from the ground. To this upper story, which is the 
present place of worship, the ascent is by stairs from without. 
The last repair which was given to the church was in 1616, when its 
lofty roof was ceiled, and additional accommodation was given by 
the erection of a gallery in the easter aisle ; notwithstanding which, 
there is not yet sufficient accommodation for an increasing popu- 
lation. Another gallery is still necessary. The number of sit- 
tings in the church cannot be exactly ascertained; they are probably 
from 1000 to 1100; but it is a well known fact, that the pews are 
generally crowded to inconvenience, and that, in fine weather, some 
have to sit on the tops of the pews for want of room. Arrange- 
ments are, however, in contemplation, which may remedy this in- 
convenience. * 

The pews have been divided by the heritors according to their 
valued rents ; and their tenants have free access to them. So far 
as I know, there are no seat-rents exacted. The poor sit on the 
forms connected with the communion tables, and in the passages. 

The great body of the people are within six miles of the church; 
some at the distance of seven or eight miles, and in one district 
about twelve miles. The people in this last district are within a 
mile of the parish church of Rogart, where they attend public wor- 
ship. They are, however, catechised annually by their own parish 
minister. 

The manse was built about sixty years ago. The last repairs to 
it were given in the year 1825, when some additional accommo- 
dations were given by the heritors. It ought to be recorded here, 
to the honour of the heritors of the parish, that no meeting of pres- 
bytery was rendered necessary during the last eighteen years to 
obtain the accommodations which the clergyman required. 

The glebe is about twelve imperial acres, all arable; but the 
greater part of it is of little value, the soil being so very sandy and 

* Since writing the above, the Duchess Countess of Sutherland has announced her 
intention of repairing the wester aisle» which has been so long in ruins, at her own 
expense, and to fit it up as a part of the place for public worship. Also to re- 
pair the other aisles of the cathedraL The work is to be commenced next spring. 
There are to be some free sittings for the poor. 



14 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

light, that during the high winds which prevail from March to June, 
it is drifted in every direction like fresh laid snow. 

The stipend was augmented on 6th February 1832, from four- 
teen chalders, and L.8, 6s. 8d., to seventeen chalders, and L. 10 for 
providing the communion elements. The victual is half meal, half 
barley, imperial standard weights and measures. 

There is one catechist in the parish, appointed by the Com- 
mittee on the Royal Bounty, with a salary of L. 7. 

There is no chapel of any description here : no Dissenters from 
the Established church; and only one family of Seceders, who 
almost regularly attend public worship in the parish church. 

The average annual amount of parochial collections for religious 
and charitable purposes may be stated at L. 28 or L. 30. 

Education. — There are seven schools in the parish, of which 
three are in the town, — the parochial school, a female school on the 
second patent of the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian 
Knowledge, and another female school withd\it salary, the teacher 
depending on the school-fees. In the landward parish are two 
Fchools on the General Assembly's scheme, and two on that of the 
Glasgow Auxiliary Gaelic School Society; besides which, the people 
in remote small districts hire a young lad to teach their children dur- 
ing the winter quarter ; after which the school breaks up till next 
winter. The Holy Scriptures and the Assembly's Shorter Cate- 
chism are taught in all these schools. Many are taught also to read 
the Bible in Gaelic. Dr Thomson's English school-books are in- 
troduced into most of them. Arithmetic, book-keeping, English 
grammar, and Latin, are taught. The parochial schoolmaster has 
the maximum salary, with a large house and garden. The school- 
fees are of no great value, — not exceeding L. 6. The teachers 
belonging to the Glasgow Society have L, 14 each : those employ- 
ed by the General Assembly's Committee, have each L. 20 of sa- 
lary, besides fees. Suitable dwelling and school-houses are pro- 
vided by the heritors in all these cases. The schoolmistress at 
Dornoch has a salary of L. 8, with a good house and garden. 

It may be observed in general, that the fees in all these schools 
are of very little value ; that, so desirous are the people to give the 
advantages of education to their children that some are sent to 
school at the age of five ; that female education is better attended 
to than formerly ; and that during last winter nearly 500 attended 
schools. 

About 7(J0 persons in the parish are unable to' read, above six 

4 



DORNOCH. 15 

years of age ; and about 250, betwixt the years of six and fif- 
teen. 

Friendly Society. — There is a friendly society in this town of 
some standing; but it does not appear to be in a prosperous state, 
as last year its dissolution was talked of. 

Savings Bank. — A branch of a general savings bank for the 
county was lately set up here. Nothing can yet be said of it but 
that the people shew a desire to vest their savings in it. It is 
under the patronage of the noble family of Sutherland, who give 
every encouragement to the people to vest their money in it, and 
to promote provident habits among the working-classes. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of persons receiving 
parochial aid may be considered on an average at from 120 to 
130. The funds for the poor, which are distributed only once a 
year, consist of collections made in church on Sabbath days, in- 
cluding what is given on marriage occasions, which may amount to 
L. 36 ; the dues for the use of the mortcloths, amounting to about 
L. 3, 10s. ; an annual gratuity of L. 6 from the Duchess Countess 
of Sutherland ; and L. 25, the interest of L. 500. The late Duke of 
Sutherland, who did not need to borrow money, very humanely took 
this sum from the kirk-session, and allowed the above liberal inte- 
rest for it. The lowest sum which is given to any of the poor is 
6s,, the highest is L. 1, 5s. There is a strong tendency among the 
lower classes to apply for relief to the parish funds. It must be 
added, that the Duchess gives also annual gratuities to several poor 
and aged individuals, — one of which, I know, amounts to L. 4 ; and 
that, besides these stated gratuities, the Noble family always gives 
a liberal supply of victuals to the poor on their estates, in time of 
scarcity. 

Prisons, — The only prison in the county is in this town. It 
was once the bishop's palace, which, from its remains, appears to 
have been a stately edifice. In 1567, George Earl of Caithness 
sent his son John with some of his people, to invest the town and 
Castle of Dornoch, of which the Murrays, a tribe attached to the 
noble family of Sutherland, had possessed themselves. The Mur- 
rays, no longer able to maintain the ground they had occupied, retired 
to the castle; upon which the master of Caithness burnt the town and 
cathedral; but still the besieged defended themselves in the castle 
for a month. At length, however, they were obliged to capitu- 
late. Whether the castle was dismantled at that time, I have no 
means of ascertaining ; but it is well known that it lay in ruins for 



1 6 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

a great length of time, till, in 1814, it was roofed and repaired; 
it has since been occupied as a court-house, a record-room, and 
a jail. The number of prisoners in the jail during the year 1833 
was 20. Of these three were for debt, six for smuggling, one 
for theft, and ten for assaults of various kinds. The prison is, 
upon the whole, comfortable and well-secured. One of the surgeons 
in the parish has a salary for attending any of the prisoners when 
sick. 

/ni», 4*c. — In the town there is an excellent principal inn ; and 
also two houses licensed to sell whisky. One of these with the inn 
would be quite sufficient There arc two other respectable inns 
in the parish, one at the Meickle Ferry, and another at Clashmore. 
There arc three licensed houses in the parish, all of which could 
be well dispensed with, as they prove injurious to the morals and 
the means of the people, particularly of the young, among the work- 
ing-classes. It should be stated to the credit of the magistrates 
here, as well as throughout the county, that they have suppressed 
several of these dram-shops. 

Fueh — Coals imported from Newcastle have been used here by 
the better classes in town and country, for the last twenty years at 
least They are purchased at Dornoch, at from Is. lOd. to 2s. per 
barrel, and carried home in carts. Peats are still used by the com- 
mon people. 

September 1834. 



PARISH OF CRIECH. 

PRESBYTERY OP DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. MURDO CAMERON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Extent and Boundaries, — This large parish extends from the 

parish of Dornoch on the east to the parish of Assynt on the 

west, — a distance of not less than thirty-five miles. Its breadth 

is not, however, proportionate, varying from five to seven or eight 

miles in the eastern part, and narrowing towards the west. It is 

bounded on the north by the parishes of Dornoch and Lairg ; and 

the Frith of Dornoch and its continuation, the river Oykell, forms 

its southern boundary. 

Topographical Appearances. — The greater part of the parish is 
mountainous, or rather hilly, for, excepting at its junction with As- 
synt, there is no very great elevation. 

It contains numerous lakes, including those of Migdale, Gour, 
Laggan, Buie, Laro, &c.,— which all abound with small trout ; but 
none of these lakes are of any great extent. They have been exa- 
mined and found to contain no marl. 

Hydrography. — The rivers which find their way to the Frith of 
Dornoch in this parish are the Shinn, the Oykell and the Cassley, 
— the confluence of the two last of which forms the Frith, and is the 
point to which the tide flows. These rivers all contain salmon, 
and are regularly fished. Chalybeate springs are numerous. 

Mineralogy. — A mineralogical survey of part of this parish, 
made in 1789 by R. E. Raspe, a German mineralogist, employ- 
ed by Mr Dempster, reports that it does not contain any minerals 
worthy of notice. Coal, which is found in an adjoining parish, is 
not found here : and it is uncertain whether there be limestone. 

There is at Rosehall a small vein of fine-grained, ponderous, 
solid, bluish-gray manganese, as perfect and free of iron as is 

SUTHERLAND. B 



18 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

ever seen. It is not, however, above five inches wide, and would 
not repay labour. 

Soil — There is not in the parish very much variety of soil : 
the usual gravelly and peaty soil of the mountains preponderates 
over every other. There is some good clay soil at Pulrossie, at 
Flode, at Rosehall, and elsewhere on the shores of the Frith. 
At Rosehall is to be found fine natural meadow pasture ; and the 
hills are pastured by sheep and cattle. 

IL — Civil History. 
Land-owners. — The land-owners of this parish, and their valued 

rents, are as follows : 

Scots. 
George Dempster, Esq. of Skibo, - - L. 1195 

Her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland, • - 703 14 B 

Sir Charles Ross, Bart., - - - - 431 18 

Right Honourable Lady Ashburton, - - 400 

Dugald Gilchrist, Esq. of Ospisdale, - - . 253 6 8 

L. 2963 19 7 

Tlie last is the only resident heritor ; and the real rent, exclu- 
sive of salmon-fishings, may be about L. 3700 Sterling per an- 
num. 

Antiquities, — In the 11th or 12th century a contest of the 
inhabitants with the Danes is recorded to have occurred at Drin- 
leah, near Bonar Bridge, whence the invaders were driven back 
with great loss to their ships at Portnacoulter, — now the Meikle 
Ferry. 

The extraordinary number of tumuli or graves on the scene of 
action, while they attest the truth of the tradition, and the great- 
ness of the slaughter, cannot fail to excite the wonder of reflect- 
ing persons at the great numbers who must have been engaged, 
and the consequent density of the population at that remote time. 
Many of these tumuli have been opened, but nothing was found 
except three or four large stones artificially arranged in each. 

On the summit of the Doune or hill of Criech there is a spe- 
cimen of those very puzzling relics of antiquity, the vitrified forts. 
It is considered by persons conversant with these appearances as a 
good specimen, and has been visited and described by Sir George 
S. Mackenzie, Bart., and by others. 

III. — Population. 

Population in 1801, • • . . . 1974 

IBll, 1969 

1B21, 2354 

1831, ----- . 2562 



. CRIECH. 19 

Number of families in the parish in 1831, .... 525 

chiefly employed in agriculture, - - ' - 407 

chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, and handicraft. 37 

The Gaelic language is spoken in the parish ; but the English 
has now gained so much ground, that it may be said to be spoken 
by the greater number of the inhabitants. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture and Rural Economy — Wood, — There is a natural 

oak-wood of great beauty at Ledmore, the divided property of the 

Duchess of Sutherland and Mr Dempster of Skibo, of about 150 

acres. The bark of the portion which belongs to the latter owner 

was sold last year for L. 500, and that of the former was sold 

some years ago for a much larger sum. 

There is also some natural oak and birch at Rosehall, and in 
one or two other places ; but, excepting some large oaks, it is not 
valuable, nor attended to. 

The oldest planted wood in the parish is the hard-wood at Os- 
pisdale, and the fir-wood at Rosehall ; but this last, from being 
grown in a soil too rich, is considered of bad quality. 

A considerable extent, chiefly of fir and larch, was planted thirty 
or forty years ago on the estates of Skibo and Pulrossie ; and the 
present proprietor has already added upwards of 1500 acres, con- 
sisting of larch and fir, (chiefly the former,) with oak and other 
forest trees in smaller quantity. Mr Houston of Creech, (who 
has recently sold his property to the Duke of Sutherland) and Mr 
Gilchrist of Ospisdale, have also planted considerably; and, on the 
whole, the extent of growing wood in this parish cannot be less 
than 2500 acres, and on the estate of Skibo it is yearly increasing. 
All sorts of hard-wood sell readily, and at good prices, and the ex- 
port of pit-wood from the fir plantations is considerable. 

It has been found impracticable to ascertain the quantity of 
land cultivated and uncultivated, and the amount of gross pro- 
duce. 

Rent — The largest corn farm in the parish yields about L. 300 
per annum, and there are half a dozen others giving betwixt L. 50 
and L. 200. 

The rent of sheep grazing is from 2s. to 4s., and of cattle from 
5s. to 10s. according to the size of the cattle and quality of the 
pasture. 

Husbandry, — There are no sheep-farms in this parish, except 
one at Auchinduich, occupied by Mr Marshall, the property of the 
Duchess of Sutherland, and one in Inverchasly, occupied by Messrs 



20 SUTHERLANDSHIRE* 

Rose and Murray, the property of Sir Charles Ross of Balna- 
gown. Baronet The breed of sheep in both these farms is chiefly 
Cheviot, and generally fetches the highest price. Improvements 
in these farms are carried to the highest pitch. The reclaiming 
of waste lands, draining, and irrigation, has been carried on in 
this parish by landlords and tenants, of late years, rapidly and suc- 
cessfully. The general duration of leases is from seven to nine- 
teen years. The farm-buildings on large farms, as well as inclo- 
sures, are in general complete and comfortable, and the small far- 
mers and cottars follow the example of their superiors. 

Quarries, — There are in the parish two quarries of whinstone, 
both very hard to work. 

Fisheries, — The only valuable river fishery is the salmon fish- 
ing of the river Shin, the property of the Duchess of Sutherland, 
who also has in lease all the salmon fishings along the Kyle, be- 
longing to the estate of Skibo, which are worked and generally 
with success by fishers employed under her Grace. 

Naviffotion, — No ships or vessels of any description belong to 
the parish. But several vessels trade to Bonar Bridge, of from 
30 to 60 tons burden, importing meal, coals, and lime ; and ex- 
porting fir props, wool, oak-bark, corn, and salmon. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market'Town and Villages, — There are no market-towns in the 

parish, and the nearest is Dornoch. 

A village and cotton manufactory were established at Spinning- 
dale, by Mr Dempster of Dunnichen, in the latter part of the last 
century; but the destruction of the factory by fire in 1809 has 
been followed by the decay of the village. 

The centrical position of Bonar Bridge, situated at the great en- 
trance of the county, and at the junction of the Assynt, Reay, 
Caithness, and Ross-shire roads, has pointed it out since the erec- 
tion of the magnificent iron bridge in 1813, as the site of a fu- 
ture town. Mr Dempster is fcuing ground here, and a village 
has already arisen, which is gradually increasing by that slow and 
natural growth which experience has shown to be the most secure 
foundation of a town. The great Kyle markets, as they are cal- 
led, for the sale of the cattle of Sutherland and Caithness, are now 
held here, in the months of July, August, and September. A suit- 
able piece of ground is inclosed for the purpose, and the conve- 
nience of the public will be greatly promoted by the desertion of the 



CRIECH. 21 

very inconvenient place at Portenleik, where they have hitherto 
been held. 

Bonar Bridge is already a place of considerable export and im- 
port, having the advantage of depth of water sufficient for ship- 
ping. 

There is no village at Newton, but it is used as a shipping place 
for the wool, com, wood, &c of this parish. 

Means of Communication, Bonar Bridge. — The first and most 
useful among the means of communication in the parish is the 
bridge of Bonar, consisting of one large metal arch and two smal- 
ler stone arches : it opens the communication between Sutherland 
and Ross-shires, as well as to the most distant parts of the coun- 
try, south and north. It was erected by Government and the 
county ; as were also the roads leading from it 

The first road, from Bonar to Assynt and the west coast, has 
three bridges ; one of two arches over the river Shin ; one of a 
single arch over the river Caslie ; and one of a single arch over the 
river Oykell. This public road runs through the parish from Bo- 
nar to within a few miles of the manse of Assynt, a distance of 
about thirty miles. The second public road from Bonar is by 
Lairg to Tongue, at the north coast. The third public road from 
Bonar (recently opened) is made through the middle of the pa- 
rish in mosses and hills, towards the Fleet Mound and the east 
coast of Sutherland. It extends within the parish a distance of 
seven miles, and has a bridge of one arch over a small river. The 
fourth public road from Bonar is towards Dornoch and the east 
coast This road within the parish extends a distance of eight 
miles, and there are two small bridges upon it at Spinningdale and 
Ospisdale. These four roads were made by Government and the 
county. There are, besides, several private roads with bridges 
through the different inhabited straths and glens ; which render 
the communication through the parish both easy and comfortable 
in all seasons of the year. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated near the 
shore, about nine miles from the east end of the parish, and up- 
wards of thirty miles from the west end. It is convenient for the 
greater part of the population from the river Shin in the west, to 
Ospisdale in the east The church was built in 1790, has been 
repaired at different periods, and is now in a good state. It accom- 
modates 500 persons. There are no free seats, except the commu- 
nion forms occupied by the poor. 



22 6UTHERLANDSHIRE. 

The manse was built in 1780, and has undergone many repairs. 
The glebe is about five acres in extent, and would be valued at 
L. 7. The stipend is fourteen chalders of victual, half barley, 
and half oatmeal, paid in money betwixt Yule and Candlemas, 
by the fiar prices ; there are also L. 10 of money allowed for com- 
munion elements. 

There is a mission at Rosehall in the west end of the parish, 
connected with the Royal Bounty. There is also a catechist paid 
by the Royal Bounty the sum of L. 7, 10s. with a small gratuity from 
the people. 

There are no Dissenters or Seceders of any description in this 
parish. 400 families attend the church, and from these about 700 
persons. Divine service is generally well attended by all ranks. 
The number of communicants attending the parish and mission- 
churches may average about 90. 

The average amount of collections yearly made in the parish 
and mission-churches for religious societies is from L. 9 to 
L. 12. 

Education, — There are three schools, viz. the parochial school 
in Criech, taught by Mr Patrick Murray and his son, Mr David 
Murray, student of philosophy. There are also two Assembly 
schools, one at Inverchaslie, and another at Whiteface. Both the 
Assembly schools are well attended and very successful, as may be 
seen by the Reports. The branches taught there are English 
and Gaelic reading and spelling ; writing, arithmetic, and book- 
keeping, and Latin, &c. 

The salary of the parish schoolmaster is L. 30 ; and the school- 
fees are from Is. to 3s. per quarter, according to the branches of 
education taught, but do not yield above L. 10 a year. The pa- 
rochial teacher had hardly any accommodation for upwards of twen- 
ty years back, being obliged to hve in a house that was falling over 
his head ; and, for the safety of his own life and that of his family, 
was obliged to quit that ruin and live in a hired house. The heri- 
tors promise to build one, but it is not yet begun. The ex- 
pense of education is various, — from 5s. to 14s. per annum. The 
people in general are very much alive to the benefits of education ; 
so much so, that the families who are at a distance from school club 
together to support a teacher that goes from house to house once a- 
week. Inveran and Linside in the mission are seven miles distant 
from any school, and fit present employ a teacher, who has generally 



CRIECII. 23 

from forty to sixty attendiughis school at Inversliin. Two additional 
schools are required, one at Inveran and neighbourhood, and one 
in Aurdale of Airdines, at each of which there might be an at- 
tendance of from forty to sixty. A very great and visible change 
to the better has taken place in the conduct and morals of the 
people within the last twenty years, during which time not less than 
eighteen teachers were introduced among them in different parts 
of the parish ; all these with stated salaries from different benevo- 
lent societies. There are still about 800 persons in the parish 
above six years of age unable to read, and about 400 in that 
state betwixt the vears of six and fifteen. 

Poor avd Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers at the 
parish church and mission may average about 140, who receive 
annually from the funds collected in church from ds. to 6s. each. 
The annual collections in the churches may amount to L. 16: and 
there is also the interest of L. 150, a fund in the Commercial 
Bank, Tain. The total amount for annual distribution is about 
L. 20. 

Inns^ Alehouses^ S^c. — Tliere is one inn at Bonar, and five or 
six alehouses in different parts of the parish ; but the people sel- 
dom exceed a necessary refreshment. 

September 1834. 



PARISH OF GOLSPIE. 

PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER MACPHERSON, A.M., MINISTER, 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The name of this parish is, in the Gaelic language, 

pronounced Goislibee. Situated in the maritime parts of the High- 
lands, the parish has, Uke many other places, in all probability, re- 
ceived its name from t|ie ancient northern invaders, who for a time 
were possessors of these parts. The attempts which have been made 
to derive the name from the Gaelic language seem forced and unsatis- 
factory. The ancient name of the parish was Culmallie,— denot- 
ing that the church or chapel had been dedicated to some tutelary 
saint. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The form of the parish is an oblong, 
stretching along the coast ; its length is about eight miles, and 
breadth about six. The parish is bounded on the north by the 
parishes of Rogart and Clyne ; on the east by the latter and the 
Moray Frith ; on the south by that frith ; and on the west by 
the small inlet, which bears the name of Little Ferry^ and the 
stream called Fleet. 

Topographical Appearances. — The hills near the coast are, Beinn 
a Bhroffidlif which is about 1300 feet in height above the level of 
the sea; the Silver Rock and the HillofMorvich^ both much lower; 
and, in the interior, Beinn Horn 1712, and Beinn Lundicy 1464 
feet in height. In the middle of the parish there is a valley called 
the Glen ofDunrohin. Through this glen runs a stream called 
Golspie Buniy whose banks, for the space of about a mile, near the 
sea, present very beautiful and picturesque scenery. The range 
of hills, consisting of the Silver Rocky the Hill of Morvicky and others, 
in their vicinity, are rounded at the top, with a southern, seaward 
aspect The flat arable part of the parish lies chiefly between the 
coast-side hills and the sea, having the rude figure of a triangle, 
one of whose sides is formed bv the base of the hills, another bv 



GOLSPIE. 26 

the Little Ferry inlet, and the third by the sea-shore, with a con- 
siderable sinuosity. 

Caves. — In the former Statistical Account, two caves are describ- 
ed, — the one, Uaigh mhic Ghil Anndreis^ Gillander's Cave, in the 
eastern part of the parish ; and the other, Uaigh Thorcuily Tor- 
quil's Cave, in the hill above Dunrobin. It may be observed) 
that the former is on the face of a white sandstone rock, and seems 
to have been formed by the gradual action of the elements ; that 
the latter is in a loosely stratified red sandstone rock ; and that 
its formation appears to have been coeval with the present structure 
of the rock itself. The eastern half of the coast in this parish is 
mostly rocky, and the western low and sandy. 

Meteorology. — The climate of this, and of the adjacent parishes 
on the coast, may be considered temperate and mild. Snow seldom 
lies long on the ground; nor can the climate be called rainy. The 
east winds, indeed, which are not unfrequent, sometimes occasion 
cloudy and damp weather ; and, when they blow hard for a day or 
two, they bring with them much rain ; but this rain is almost uni- 
formly succeeded by a tract of fair mild weather. The south 
winds, which are the least frequent, are rarely accompanied with 
rain ; and it is in occasional showers only that the west and north- 
west winds bring rain. The gales from the north-west are here by 
far the hardest. Those dense fogs, which so often occur, on the 
east coast of the island, to the southward of us, are here of rare 
occurrence. 

Ailments of the rheumatic kind are perhaps the most prevalent; 
but not in any remarkable degree ; nor can these be ascribed to 
any peculiarity in the climate. 

Hydrography. — The fresh-water lakes in the parish are Lochs 
Homy Lundie^ Farralarie, and Salachic^ none of which exceeds 
half a mile in length, or one-third in breadth. The Fleets which, 
as already observed, forms part of the western boundary of the 
parish, is the only stream connected with it that can be denomi- 
nated a river. It flows through the valley called Strathjleet. At 
its lower part, it is slow and meandering, and contains trout, and 
sometimes salmon. In the glen of Golspie^ there is a cascade, 
which, when there is any quantity of water in the stream, has a 
very fine effect The surrounding scenery has of late been greatly 
improved ; and the traveller, who rests at the inn, and who takes 
pleasure in such things, will find himself rewarded, in visiting it. 

Geology. — The following geological remarks, relative to this pa- 



26 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

rish, are copied from an original manuscript, at Duurobin Castle, 
written by the late eminent Sir Humphry Davy, President of the 
Royal Society : — " The primary hills, in the neighbourhood of 
Dunrobin, are composed of felspar, quartz, mica, and hornblende, 
forming different arrangements of porphyry, porphyritic granite, 
gneiss, sienite, and mica slate. There are very few veins in the 
rocks. The only veins I have seen are quartz, and in them there 
arc no indications of metallic formations. The decomposed rocks 
have left no fragments of quartz, which are usually found in abun- 
dance in metalliferous districts. 

^^ The highest secondary hills, in this district, extend in a line 
from Loch-Brora to Strathfleet," that is, through the northern 
part of this parish, ^^ and are composed of hard silicious sandstone 
and puddingstone, containing large fragments — some rounded, 
some sharp — of the primary rocks, particularly of the porphyritic 
granite, gneiss, and sienite. 

" The secondary rocks are more interesting. The mechanical 
deposits in them are evidently derived from the ruins of primary 
rocks ; and most of the fragments are such as may have been de- 
tached from rocks in the neighbourhood. The vegetable remains 
in the sandstone and the shells in the limestone are those common 
to such formations. The cement of the secondary rocks is gene- 
rally silicious; but in one stratum near Golspie, and extending 
along the coast, it is calcareous ; and the decomposition of the 
rocks forms an excellent marl. In this marl there is a blue sub- 
stance, having some of the external characters of phosphate of iron," 

In another manuscript, Sir Humphry writes thus : — " The 
soils of the coast side lands, between the Little Feriy and Helms- 
dale, seem to be formed principally from the decomposition of 
sandstone-rock, which in some parts approaches in its nature to 
shale. The soils in Strathfleet," — the lower parts of which 
partly lie in this parish, — " appear to have been produced by the 
decomposition of transition-sandstone and breccias. 

" The transition rocks of Sutherland are not numerous, and be- 
long, as far as I have been able to learn and examine, only to a 
small extent of country. Some of the high hills, in the immediate 
neighbourhood of Dunrobin and Strathfleet, must be regarded as 
belonging to this order of rocks. Beinn a BhragidJi^ rising imme- 
diately above (near) the castle, is composed of red transition sand- 
stone and breccia. Beinn Hom^ the Silver Hilly and all the moun- 
tains immediately above Loch-Brora, arc similar in their nature ; 



GOLSPIE. 27 

but their colours are various, — the sandstone being in some cases 
gray, in some white, and in others iron-brown. 

" In general the breccias, in these transition mountains, con- 
tain fragments of granite, porphyry, and micaceous schist, connect- 
ed by silicious cement; but, in a few cases, they contain fragments 
of marble, with a calcareous cement. A very remarkable breccia 
occurs at Golspie, near the inn, and at the east side of the burn, 
and a still purer one near Rhives, in which small blocks of marble 
are inserted. These calcareous breccias, in general, are in a state 
of decomposition, and a sort of marl is formed from the decay. 
"These rocks might, with as much propriety, be called secondary as 
transition rocks ; for though in some parts they abound in crys- 
talline matter, yet in others they are almost entirely composed of 
fragments. I have given them the name of transition by courtesy. 
Rocks of the rare kind are often associated with greywacke and 
crystalline stone ; and they are placed immediately upon the pri- 
mary rocks. I have never seen any greywacke or transition lime- 
stone in Sutherland. 

" The secondary rocks occupy but a small space, and are pro- 
bably incumbent on the red sandstone or breccia described. They 
occur in regular strata ; but their arrangement is very much dis- 
turbed. They appear to have been originally deposited, or formed 
parallel to the horizon ; but in most places this parallelism has 
been disturbed, either by the subsidence or the elevation of part of 
the strata ; so that there are frequently faults or abruptions of the 
diflerent rocks, which have given to tlie different parts of the strata 
different inclinations. 

" The true secondary strata of Sutherland," /. t\ of the east 
coast, " occupy an extent of six or seven miles, filling up a sort of 
basin between the transition hills, in the neighbourhood of Dun- 
robin, and those in the parish of Loth. The upper stratum is 
a sandstone of different degrees of hardness, and composed of sili- 
cious sand, cemented by silicious matter. Below this occurs an 
aluminous shale, containing pyritous matter, carbonaceous matter, 
the remains of marine animals, * and of land vegetables. Beneath 
this shale, or rather alternating with it, a stratum occurs, contain- 
ing in some of its parts calcareous matter, and passing into lime- 

• The reefs at Dunrobin contain the remains of the following hivalve shell fishes : — 
Gryphtra, difTering slightly from G. ohliqnata\ Modioh, new species, longitudinally 
striated ; Pecten^ new species, striated ; P/afnMt(»na duplicata ; Tcrchratnla victim ; 
a new species of gil>bose shell resembling Unio ; Venus undescribed.— .SVc Mur~ 
f'liwM ow Strata of Oolitic Scries, ^r. Trans. Gcol. Soc. 



28 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

Stone ; but in general consisting of a silicious sand agglutinated 
by calcareous cement The coal measures occupy the lowest part 
of this secondary district which has been yet exposed." 

^^ The hard sandstone is principally composed of pure silicious 
earth. It is not acted upon by acids, and is not liable to be de- 
composed by the action of air and water. The shale contains no 
calcareous matter near its junction with the coal. The limestones 
found in the secondary strata contain no magnesian earth, and are 
adulterated only with aluminous and silicious earths, and oxide of 
iron. They differ very much in purity, in different parts. The 
marble in the calcareous breccia at Rhives, and on the coast, 
leaves only from one-twelfth to one-twentieth of residuum during 
its solution in acids. The sand on the coast, near the quay at Dun- 
robin, contains from one-half to one-third of weight of calcareous 
matter." 

Zoology. — The following birds, of the rarer kinds, have occasion- 
ally been seen in this parish, by the game-keeper. The goshawk, 
(Falco palumhariusj Linn.; UAutour^ Buffon.) The ash-colour- 
ed shrike, or greater butcher-bird, {Lanius excubitor^ Linn.; La 
Pie^Griiche grise^ Buffon.) Tlie ring-ouzel (Turdus torqttatus, 
Linn.; Le Merle d Plastron blanc^ Buffon.) The cross-bill or 
Sheld Apple {Loxia Curvirostra) Linn.; LeBeccroise, Buffon.) The 
snow-bunting or snow-flake (Emberiza nivalis^ Linn.; L' Ortolan 
de Neigcy Buffon.) The Siskin or Aberdevine {Fringilla spinusy 
Linn.; LeTarin, Buffon.) The night-jar, goat-sucker, dor-hawk, 
or fern-owl, (Caprimulgus Europceusy Linn.; L' Engouleventy Buf- 
fon.) 

At a very remote period, deer seem to have been numerous either 
in the hills of this parish, or in its neighbourhood ; for large, and 
evidently very old deposits of their horns have recently been dug up, 
near the site of the old chapel. They now seldom venture to ap- 
proach so near the coast. Galloway black-polled cattle. Highland 
black cattle, and the Cheviot breed of sheep, and some good work- 
horses, are reared with great care and success, in this parish. The 
kinds of fish found here are merely those which are common to 
the other parts of the east coast of Scotland, and which are men- 
tioned in the former Statistical Account. The most useful shell- 
fish, in the parish, is the mussel, generated on a bank in the Little 
Ferry inlet. This shell-fish is the bait chiefly used in the haddock 
and other white fisheries ; sometimes, however, the limpet, and a 
worm named by the fishermen hiff, and found in the sand, at ebb 



GOLSPIE. 29 

tide, are used as bait In the vicinity of the mussels, cockles abound. 
He^s of oyster-shells have occasionally been dug up in certain 
parts of this, and of the neighbouring parish, to the west; and their 
shells are also found on the sea-shore, about the Little Ferry inlet, 
— affording an indication of the existence of this shell-fish in abun- 
dance, in former times. 

IL — Civil History. 

Like other maritime parishes in the Highlands, Golspie appears 
to have, in ancient times, been invaded, and possessed, for a period, 
by foreign northern nations.* By far the most prominent and in- 
teresting part of its history relates to the eminent characters that 
have been connected with it. 

Family of Sutherland, — Her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland, 
who, with the other members of her family, often resides in this 
parish, at her seat — Dunrobin, is also Countess of Sutherland, in 
her own right The thanes of Sutherland first received the title 
of earls from Malcolm Canmore, King of Scotland, a. d. 1031. Her 
Grace Elizabeth, the present Countess, is the twenty-third repre- 
sentative of this ancient family, and a lineal descendant of Robert 
the Bruce, King of Scotland; the third William Earl of Sutherland 
having been married to the Princess Margaret, daughter of that 
monarch. 

The husband of her Grace is George Granville Leveson 
Gower, Duke of Sutherland, Knight of the Garter. The de- 
scent of his Grace is also very illustrious, as well as very ancient. 
Not to mention many other particulars, he is in the paternal 
line descended from Robert, the youngest son of Rollo, first Duke 
of Normandy, and, in the maternal line, from the Princess Mary, 
second daughter of the seventh Henry, King of England. 

The family consists of two sons and two daughters, — George 
Granville, Marquis of Stafford, Baron Gower of Stittenham, Lord 

* In all probability, the continental warlike nation of the Catti, so largely treated 
of by the Roman historians, invaded and took possession of the district of country ex- 
tending from the Pentland Frith to that of Dornoch ; and that, perhaps, soon after 
the disasters brought upon them by the Roman arms. The Celtic name of the dis- 
trict, situated between the Ord of Caithness, and the Frith of Dornoch, is Cati Ihaobh^ 
I. e. the side, or district of the Catli, and the inhabitants are in Celtic denominated 
Cattick, Caithness has in English retained its original name, for it means the pro- 
montory of the Catti ; but in Celtic^ it is called Gall thaohh, the district of strangers, 
from the people who at a later period settled there. Sutherland, the English name of 
this county, eridently owes its origin to its geographical position, in reference to Caith^ 
ness. In Celtic, the title of the Earls of Sutherland is Morfhcar citatt, pronounced 
Morer ehait, and that of the Countess, Bona Mhorfear chaiU pronounced Bona voter 
ehatt ; Bona being the feminine prefix. Both the Celtic titles are expressive of no- 
bility in any degree ; and thus they still continue applicable. 



30 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

Lieutenant of the county of Sutherland, and heir to the estates and 
titles of the family, married to Lady Harriet Howard, daughter of 
the Earl of Carlisle ; Lord Francis, heir to the property of the late 
Duke of Bridgewater, married to Miss Greville, niece of the Duke 
of Portland ; Lady Charlotte, married to the Earl of Surrey, son 
and heir of the Duke of Norfolk ; and Lady EUzabeth, married to 
Earl Grosvenor, son and heir of the Marquis of Westminster; 
all of whom have families, consisting each of sons and daughters. 

As a statesman the Duke of Sutherland is enlightened, libe- 
^ral, firm, and independent; possessing the well-merited charac- 
ter of inflexible integrity and of high honour. His Grace, then 
Earl Gower, was ambassador, from this country, at the court of 
France, at the memorable period of the French Revolution, which 
began in 1789.* 

Her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland has, by universal con- 
sent, been always regarded as endowed with great talent, accomplish- 
ments, and beauty ; and, in respect to character, is eminent and ex- 
emplary, in the highest degree, and a great ornament to her ex- 
alted rank and station ; the natural fruit and reward of which qua- 
lities are richly exhibited, in the good conduct and great prospe- 
rity and happiness of her family. The noble Marquis follows the 
paternal example, — favouring and promoting, as a statesman, all 
those measures which appear calculated to benefit the empire, and 
to render its institutions pure and permanent. The younger son. 
Lord Francis, has already, in connection with former administra- 
tions, served his country successively as Secretary of State for Ire- 
land, and minister at war, and, in a literary capacity, is author of some 

*> His Grace died at Dunrobin, on 19th July 1833, greatly lamented by all de- 
scriptions of persons in the county ; and his remains rejMse in the cathedral at Dor- 
noch. No nobleman's funeral could be. attended with a demonstration either more 
true, or more aj)propriate, of esteem and veneration, than that of his Grace ; and 
never, in this county, was tlicre a scene at once so decorous, so imposing, and eo im- 
pressive. Not only did the relatives of the noble deceased, and tlic gentlemen and 
clergymen connected with his domains, give their attendance on the solemn occa- 
sion, but also the general population of all the parishes, who, while the procession 
passed along, lined the road leading from Ounrobin to Dornoch. In testimony of 
tlieir great esteem and respect, the gentlemen and tenantry on his Grace's estates in 
thb country, are, at their joint expense, to erect a monument to his memory, to be 
situated on the summit of the hill *'*' Beinn a Bhragidh^** in this parish ; and m simi- 
lar manifestation of esteem and respect, takes place on the English estates. His 
Grace's eldest son succeeds to his titles and estates ; but the Duchess Countess of 
Sutherland not only enjoys her own esUtes, but also liferenU the whole of the ex- 
tensive and valuable estates purchased by the late Duke in this country ; a bequest 
as merited as it is munificent. For never, in any rank of life, was there one, who 
discharged the duties of the connubial relation m a more exemplary manner than 
did her Grace. 

3 



GOLSPIE. 31 

works, chiefly connected with German literature, which have at- 
tracted considerable notice. 

The names and biography of the Earls of Sutherland are ho- 
nourably interwoven in the general history of the empire. To 
specify the many honourable actions and exertions of these 
noblemen, in defence and for the Uberties of their country, the ne- 
cessary brevity of this account renders impossible. But there 
is one remarkable and interesting circumstance that may not be 
omitted, — which is, that the line of succession down to the present 
representative is direct, and uninterrupted, having the title of Su- 
therland united to it. Twice was there an attempt unavaiUngly 
made to divert the succession from an heiress; first from the 
Lady Elizabeth, daughter of John, the twelfth earl ; and again, 
from the present representative, who, by the almost simultaneous 
and much lamented death of her noble parents, was in early in- 
fancy left an only child. From such critical circumstances did the 
Supreme Arbiter of the Destinies of all deliver the present repre- 
sentative of the house of Sutherland, and in her person the direct 
line of succession, — to become still farther exalted, and to be con- 
nected with the most noble, the most wealthy, and the most an- 
cient families in the empire ; 

" Mersus profiindo pulchrlor evenit." 

Family of Kilcalmkilh — In the churchyard of this parish there is 
a chapel, or inclosed place of sepulture, where repose many members 
of the very old family of Kilcalmkill, or, according to a more recent 
designation, of Carrol. This family derives its descent from Adam 
Gordon, Dean of Caithness, the first Earl of Huntly's second son, 
uncle of Adam Gordon, Lord of Aboyne, the second Earl of Hunt- 
ly's son, who married the Countess Elizabeth, daughter of John, 
the fourteenth Earl of Sutherland. The representative of a main 
branch of the Kilcalmhill family is Joseph Gordon, Esq. W. S. 
fklinburgh, who, it is understood, has a right to a baronetage by 
the death of the Rev. Sir Adam Gordon, Baronet, in whom a col- 
lateral branch of the male line has terminated. 

Family ofNovar. — Among the eminent persons connected with 
this parish, by birth, must be noticed the late Sir Hector Munro of 
Novar. Sir Hector was born at Clayside, in this parish, in 1 727, and, 
when about twenty years of age, entered the army. He went to 
the East Indies, a major in Morris's regiment At the head of a 
small force, he defeated a large army commanded by a native 
prince, at Buxar. He was afterwards promoted to the rank of 



32 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

major-general, aiid appointed commander-in-chief at Madras. He 
soon took the French settlement of Pondicherry, and, for this ser- 
vice, was invested with the order of the Bath. At Negapatam, 
also, he behaved with equal gallantry. Having soon afterwards 
returned to England, he was appointed Colonel of the 42d Regi- 
ment of Infantry, and was subsequently promoted to the rank of 
Lieutenant-General, on the North British Staff. Sir Hector's 
father, Hugh Munro, by the death of an elder brother, succeeded 
to the estate of Novar, in Ross-shire, and, on the father's death. 
Sir Hector himself. Sir Hector was twice in India, and in the in- 
terval spent at home he represented in Parliament the Inverness 
district of burghs, and on his finally quitting India was re-elected. 
Sir Hector died in 1802. He was a brave officer ; in private life 
a good friend ; and a remarkable instance of filial piety, towards 
a venerable and worthy mother, to whose prayers he was wont to 
ascribe his success in life.* 

Sir Hector Munro's brother, Alexander, who was for sometime 
Consul General at Madrid, and afterwards a Commissioner of Cus- 
toms, was also knighted. H. A. J. Munro, Esq. the present pro- 
prietor of Novar, an intelligent and accomplished gentleman, is 
the son of Sir Alexander. 

It must be added under this head, that Dr Hugh Macpherson, 
the present Professor of Greek in the University and King's Col- 
lege, Aberdeen, and who has taught that language there, for thirty- 
five years, with great success and approbation, is a native of this 
parish ; and is the son of the late Rev. Martin Macpherson, who 
was minister of the parish. 

Land-Timers. — The Duke and Duchess Countess of Sutherland 
are the sole owners of the land in this parish ; and, by the late purchase 
of the Reay country, they have become owners of nearly the whole 
county. Their property has also been further enlarged by the recent 
purchase of several estates in the county of Ross; so that the whole, 
in conjunction with the Staffordshire and other estates, the Bridge- 
water canal, and other possessions in England, constitutes a proper- 
ty which may with propriety be called immense, yielding a revenue 
more than princely. 

Manuscripts. — It is proper to observe, that there is a manuscript 
at Dunrobin Castle, entitled « the Genealogy of the Earls and 
family of Sutheriand." But though this be the title, the work is 

• Sir II. Munro*s conduct in India did not wholly escape censure ; but, whatever 
caww there may have been for it, it is evident that his general conduct and services 
must have made ample amends. 



GOLSPIE. 3d 

extensive, and contains a great many curious and interesting his* 
torical notices, relative to the counties of Sutherland and Caith* 
ness, the hi^ands and islands, and the country at laige. The. 
author was Sir Robert Gordon, a younger son of the family of 
Sutherland. The work embraces the space of time between the 
years 1031 and 1630, and tfiere is appended to it a continuation, 
by Gilbert Gordon of Sallach, to the year 1661. It was printed 
in Edinburgh in 1813 ; and of the MS. there is another manuscript 
eofy in the Advocates' Library, in Edinburgh. 

AHtiqMiHe$,^^A portion of the wall of the old church, or chapel, 
of this parish still remains, and forms part of the fence whidi en* 
doses the burying-ground formerly used. This cemetery contains 
the remains of many of the Earls of Sutherland, as signified by a 
plain stone placed in the old church wall, bearing this epitaph, 
*^ In hoc diruto cameterio Sutherlandia pbtrimarum eomitum dneres 
canquiesetmL*' Tlie church was transferred from Culmalie to Grol- 
spie, A. D. 1619. 

In the former Statistied Account of the parish, there is notice 
taken of the battle fought in 1746, on the north side of the Little 
Ferry ^ between a party of those who sided with the invading prince 
and the miUtia of this country; in which battle the Earl of Cro- 
marty and other ^ntlemen were made prisoners. Of the sangui- 
nary nature of this battle there remain clear proofs. Several 
skeletons of those who fell, and who were buried on the scene of 
action, have of late been occasionally discovered. Along with these, 
there have been found a number of small copper coins, and one of 
silver, — dl of Mary and James, — together with some copper 
brooches and some glass beads. Of these artides, some are now 
at Dunrobin Castle, and others in the possession of Dr Ross of 
Canmsmore. Among the latter, there is a copper ring encircled 
with this inscription, rudely executed ; ^' Jesus Nazarams Hex 
JuddBorunL." The remdns of swords and pistols have also been 
found. 

Near the ruins of the old chapel, there were lately dug up the 
handle of a balance, with some of the weights, both of brass, and 
of neat and curious workmanship, and in very good preservation. 
They are supposed to have belonged to the old chapel. These, 
together with some thick rings of brass, wood, and other materials^ 
in diameter from hdf an inch to one and a^half, found in the same 
vicinity, are now at Dunrobin Castle ; and here also are two brass 
rings, three inches in diameter, and a third of an inch thick, found 

SUTHERLAND. C 



34 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

at the place of Uppat, five feet under ground. Near the site of 
the old chapel, too, there was lately dug up a large undressed stone, 
with a rude device, as of an ancient galley, — a thick crescent The 
date and the object of it are alike unknown. It now stands a little 
to the east of the castle. 

The ruins of two Pictish towers, as they are often called, are 
described in the former Statistical Account ; — the one, situated 
at a short distance to the east of Dunrobin Castle, and the other 
to the west, now embosomed in a plantation of fir trees. There 
is another ruin of the same kind near the place of Backies, which 
has not been mentioned, and which, as well as that situated at the 
east, has been greatly demolished. The ruin in the wood is less dila- 
pidated, and still distinctly bears the characteristics of similar ruins 
in the coast-side Highlands. The general dimensions, — the cen- 
tral circular compartment, — the gallery between this compartment 
and the exterior wall, — are quite visible. The absence of mortar 
in the construction is common to these three ruins, as well as to 
all others of the kind. The two nearest were in sight of each 
other; the one at Backies looked into the glen; and they all com- 
manded an extensive prospect of the sea and the land. It is most 
probable, that these, and other similar structures, were built and 
used by the Danes. The remains of a Druidical temple, or cir- 
cle, are to be seen a little above the road which leads from the 
Mound to Morvich, about half way between these places. 

Dunrobin Castle.- — About the middle of the parish, and situ- 
ated on the margin of a bank, and considerably elevated above 
the sea, stands Dunrobin Castle, which was first built by Robert 
Earl of Sutherland, a. d. 1275. . Its environs are a good deal 
wooded, and the surrounding scenery, which is varied and hilly, is 
very interesting and picturesque. The garden which, as viewed 
from the bank or the castle, spreads itself like a map at the foot 
of the bank, is in excellent keeping with the antique character of 
the mansion and the place. 

Parochial Register. — The earliest entry in the parochial regis- 
ter here is 29th December 1739. The register is at present re- 
gularly and carefully kept. 

Modem Buildings. — Besides the farm-houses and offices, there 
are in the village an inn, a flour and barley-mill, a meal-mill, a 
bank-office, and the manse, all of them good, and built not many 
years ago. 



GOLSPIE. 35 

IIL — Population. 
Since the former Statistical Account in 1793, there has been a 
decrease of population. This has arisen from a powerful cause, which 
has been, for the last forty years, in full operation in all the High- 
lands of Scotland,- — the occupation of the land, in large farms, by 
tenants of skill and capital; — a measure urged on by the changes 
and improvements in the general state of agriculture and commerce, 
at home and abroad. Since the census in 1821, there is an in- 
crease in the jpopulation of upwards of a hundred; which has been 
occasioned by the increased comforts of the working-classes, aris- 
ing from employment on the large farms, and in the various works, 
such as buildings and roads, carried on, in the county. 

By the census of 1831, the whole population of the parish was - 1 149 

The population of the village of Golspie is at present - • 450 

The population residing in the country, - - ^ . . 699 

The yearly average number of births for the last seven years, • 90 

of deaths for do. - . • 16 

of marriages for do. ... 9 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age, - - d95 

betwixt 15 and 30, - . 302 

30 and 50, . . 233 

50 and 70, - . 165 

upwards of 70, - - • 54 

The number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 

years of age, - - .. . . • 11 

The number of unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age, ^ 52 

Average number of children in each fiunily, ... 4 

Number of persons deaf and dumb, .... 2 

&tuous persons, ..... 1 

blind, _.._... 1 

The number of &milies in the parish is, - ... 248 

of &milies chiefly employed in agriculture, - 113 

chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicrafl, 49 

Language^ Habits^ and Character of the People. — Forty years 
ago, the Gaelic was the language generally spoken in the parish. 
But, from better education, and the residence of persons from the 
south country, that language is now fast on the decline; and among 
the young there is now hardly an individual who does not under- 
stand and speak English. In cleanliness, both personal and cLo- 
mestic, there has of late been a great improvement; and the same 
may, in its full extent, be said of their dress. The ordinary 
food of the peasantry and tradesmen consists of oat and barley- 
meal, variously prepared, — of potatoes, fish, and milk, but rarely 
flesh. Tradesmen and others occasionally use a little wheaten 
bread, and a little butter, cheese, and tea. The people of this 
parish live ip comfort and contentment — However far short they 
may come of the full Christian standard, they may generally, and 
in the ordinary acceptation of the term, be, without hesitation. 



36 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

said to be a moral and a religious people. It must, however, be ad- 
mitted, that, in common with a large proportion of their country- 
men, the religion of many of the native population of the lower 
class is not without serious and inveterate errors. Christian con- 
ver^on, in their view, essentially consists, not in the forsaking of 
wicked ways and unrighteous thoughts, and in returning from these 
to the Lord, but in another sort of change not distinctly connect- 
ed with a moral life. A set of illiterate, fanatical, and disorderly, 
self-appointed teachers of religion have, by their wild and mjrsti- 
cai rhapsodies, acquired a baneful ascendant over the ignorant 
minds of the lower orders of the people not only in this country, 
but in other parts of the Highlands. In the mouths of these 
teachers, prayer is irreverently perverted into mere discussion, vir- 
tually addressed, not to God, but to the hearers, and frequently 
degenerates into bitter personalities and invecUves. By these de- 
luding, and often deluded persons, the metaphorical parts of the 
Holy Scriptures are received and taught in the literal sense, and 
the plainest parts are very often allegorized. Not unfrequently the 
Scriptures are considered as a mere secondary thing, of little avail ; 
and that pastor who studies them closely and critically, and ex- 
pounds them in their true sense, is regarded as if he were dealing 
with occult and unhallowed sciences. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of acres, impe- 
rial measure, in the parish which are either cultivated or occasion- 
ally in tillage is about 2040. Of unimproved land there is very 
little. There are about 800 acres under wood. Every attention 
seems to be paid to the plantations. 

The trees and plants in this parish are of those kinds which 
are common to other parts of the Highlands. Since the former 
Statistical Account was written, a considerable space of land has 
been planted with forest trees, by which the appearance of the pa- 
rish is greatly improved. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per imperial 
acre in this parish is L. 1, 2s. The average rate of grazing is 
L. 1, 10s. per ox or cow grazed, and 2s. per ewe or fuU*grown sheep, 
pastured for the year. 

Rate of Wages. — The rate of wages is as follows : A ploughman, 
for the year, receives L. 10 in money, one stone of meal per week, 
keep for a cow, (or a cow between two,) six bolls of potatoes, with 
house and fuel. A male day labourer gets Is.' 6d. in the long day, 



GOLSPIE. 37 

and Is. dd. in the short; a female 6d. a-day generally; in har- 
vest, Is. House-carpenters 2s., and masons 2s. 6d. a-day. The 
prices of articles of manufacture, and the rate of work, are ; for 
an iron plough, L.4; for a wooden one from L.2, lOs. to L.d. 
A cart, with hay frame, L. 14; a set of cart and plough harness, 
L. 7, lOs. ; pair of harrows, L. 2, 10s. ; rood of stone and lime- 
work, L. 2, 12s. ; drystone-dike, 4 feet high, with coping, 6d. per 
yard ; if 6 feet high, 9d. ; blacksmiths work 4d. to 7d. per lb. 

itw*SltodL— 'The price of a Dunrobin ox, from two to three 
years old, is generally L. 9; but, during the war, the price was L.14, 
and sometimes h^ier. Other Highland cattle are considerably 
lower in price. A woric-horse from L. 25 to L. 40. The price of beef 
and mutton is 4d. per lb. ; butter, lOd. per lb. ; a common house fowl, 
^ > ^SS^ ^ P^** dozen ; oatmeal generally L. 1, but this year 17s.* 
per boll of eight stone ; potatoes from 8s. to 12s. per boll of twelve 
bushels imperial; salmon Is. to Is. 6d. per lb. ; grilse 6d. per lb. ; 
a cod 6d.; haddocks from lOd. to Is. per dozen. 

The Dunrobin breed of cattle, originally from Argyleshire, are 
deservedly accounted excellent, and there is great attention paid 
to the rearing of them. For dairy use, there are some Ayrshire 
cows. On some farms, the breed of Highland black-cattle is 
chiefly reared; and on the farm of Kirk ton, an excellent breed of 
black polled Galloway cattle. At the Highland Society's cattle 
show, held at Inverness in 1831, where stock of all kinds were 
shown, from all the northern counties, including the counties of 
Aberdeen and Perth, — a larger amount of prizes was awarded to 
this parish than to any other. To the Marquis of Stafford was 
awarded the prize for the best two oxen of the Highland breed ; 
another for the best lot of stirks of the same breed ; and the So- 
ciety's medal for two Highland oxen shown as extra stock. Mr 
Craig of Kirkton obtained a prize for the best cow, another for the 
best heifer, and another for the best ox, all of the Gralloway breed, 
— together with the commendation of the judges for a bay colt and 
a chesnut filly, shown as extra stock. This gentleman afterwards 
sold his prize ox for L. 30, to the advantage of the buyer. The 
Galloway breed of cattle are here found to be very hardy, and to 
arrive at a greater weight, upon the same feeding, than the High- 
land breed do. The milk, both of the Galloway and Highland 
cows, is not great in quantity, but is in quality very rich. On the 
large farms, some good work and saddle horses are bred ; and by 

• In ia04. 14s. per boll. 



38 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

the cottars, some small ponies. The kind of sheep reared is the 
Cheviot, to the purity and rearing of which much attention is paid ; 
and they accordingly are very superior, and obtain high prices., 

Husbandry, — Farming is carried on in this parish on the most 
approved system. The rotations of cropping are the four, five, 
and six years shifts. Trenching and draining have been done to 
a great extent on every farm in the parish, at an expense of from 
L. 8 to L. 50 per acre. * The duration of leases is nineteen 
years; in one instance, thirty. The farm-buildings and many of 
the fences (which are dry-stone dikes) are substantial. 

Improvements. — It may be with truth affirmed, that a simple 
account of the improvements in this parish must have the appear- 
ance of exaggeration, and that he only can appreciate them who 
had seen the state of the parish forty or even thirty years ago, and 
compares that state with the present Every farm, every building, 
every piece of road, presents an instance of the greatest improve- 
ment. The farms of Culmalie and Morvich are possessed by Mr 
Sellar, who, by trenching, draining, and liming, with much labour 
and expense, has converted them into specimens of great agricul- 
tural excellence. The farm of Kirkton, occupied by Mr Craig, 
affords a most creditable example of industry and skill. That of 
Drummuie, held by Mr Macpherson, and that of Golspie Tower, 
held by Mr Duncan, have been greatly improved, and at a great 
expense. The farm of Rhives had been rendered a remarkably 
fine one by its former successive occupants, Mr Young and Mr 
Suther ; and an addition has been made to its arable land, by the 
present possessor, Mr Gunn. The mains of Dunrobin, being old 
and good land, have always been productive ; but they, too, have 
been improved under the new system ; and the same may be said 
of the place of Uppat, which completes the number of large farms 
in the parish. These notices are not irrelevant here ; for it must 
be added, that these farmers have . not only the good fortune to 
be placed under most liberal landlords ; but that they deserve the 
liberality they receive. They have acquired a title to the gra- 
titude of the community at large " by making corn and grass to 
grow, where neither grass nor com ever grew before." 

Quarries. — There are two very good red sandstone quarries 
wrought here ; there is also one of white sandstone. Some indi- 

* Much use continues to be made of drift sea-weed as a manure ; kelp is used at 
Dunrobin, and bone-dust has recently been introduced by Mr Craig, Kirkton^ and 
has been since adopted to some extei^t and with success by others. From the very 
small quantity of this manure requisite, there is a great saving of carriage. 



1250 








1000 








1430 








450 








100 









GOLSPIE. 39 

cations have appeared of coal veins ; but it has not been thought 
expedient to open them. 

Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in 
the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is as follows : — 

Produce of grain of all kinds, cultivated for food for men and the domestic animals, 

L.5800 

Potatoes, turnips, cabbages, beet, and other plants, cultivated in 
the field for food, .... 

Hay cultivated, .... 

Land in pasture, rating it at L. 1, lOs. per cow or full-grown ox, 
grazed, or that may be grazed, for the season ; at 2s. p^ ewe or 
full-grown sheep pastiured, or that may be pastured, for the year. 

Fisheries yearly, haddocks, &c L. 250, herrings, L. 200, 

Muscles yearly, ..... 

Total yjssKtXy value, L. 10,030 

Fishings. — The only salmon fishery, in the parish, is on the Fleet 
below the Mound. It commences in June, and is carried on by 
stake nets. The quantity of fish caught there is not large. There 
is no herring fishery station in the parish. It is at Helmsdale, 
Wick, and Portmahomach, that the fishermen of this parish take 
and sell their herrings. The above calculation of the fisheries 
is probably under their real value. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Markets^ Villages^ Sfc. — In this parish there is, strictly speak- 
ing, no town, and the nearest market -town is Tain, distant about 
twenty miles ; a ferry intervening. There is, however, a village, 
bearing the name of the parish. Originally, there were only a 
few fishermen's huts of the meanest description on the site of the 
village; but within the last twenty years it has, with the aid of the 
noble proprietors, become a neat village of considerable extent. 
It contains several retail-shops of various descriptions. There are 
also mechanics of various kinds, and upwards of twenty profes- 
sional fishermen, together with many labourers of both sexes, who 
earn their livelihood by working on the neighbouring farms. 

Means of Communication, — A trading smack plies regularly once 
a-month between the Little Ferry^ in this parish, and the^ port of 
Leith, touching also at Helmsdale and Aberdeen. * There is here, 
too, a regular post-office ; and a daily mail-coach passes through 
the village on its way to and from Thurso. From this post-office, 
there runs twice a-week a Diligence gig, conveying a mail, and 
fitted up to carry two passengers, to Lairg in the interior, distant 
eight miles ; from which place, and on the same day, two other 

* There is a steamer to commence plying, next spring, between the Moray Frith 
and London ; and this steamer is to touch at the LMtk Ferry, 



40 SUTHEftLANDSHIRE. 

liiiiiiiar conveyances, and for similar purposes, branch ofl^-*^tbe one 
to Tongue, the other to Assynt^ It is only about three years since 
these latter conveyances began to run ; and fifteen, since the mail- 
coach commenced. Both the latter and the former owe their es-* 
tablishment, in a great measure, to the liberal and powerful suj^rt 
of the noble proprietors of this parish, — rendered effective by the 
ability and activity of their commissioner, James Loch, Esq.M. P. 
The length of mail-coach road, in this parish, is eight miles. Over 
Golspie bum there is a well-built substantial one-arched bridge. * 
Earthen Mound. — Connecting this parish with the adjacent one 
of Dornoch, at the head of the Little Ferry inlet, and across the 
Fleet, there is a mound 995 yards in length, 60 yards in breadth 
at the base, and 20 feet at the top, and about 18 feet perpendicular 
in height ; it terminates at the north end in a bridge 34 yards in 
length, with four arches, each 12 feet span, fitted with valve gates. 
The expense of constructing this mound was L. 9600, of which 
sum the Duke of .Sutherland defrayed L. 1600, and the public and 
the county the remainder, each a moiety. Along the mound the 
mail-coach now passes; and thus a passage, formerly uncertain 
and often dangerous, has been rendered safe, certain, and agreeable. 
Besides the public benefit effected by this work, some good land 
is preserved from the overflowing of the sea ; and about 400 acres 
of beach, which may in time become arable, are gradually assum- 
ing a coating partly of herbage, and partly of alder trees. The 
construction of the mound having been by many skilful engineers 
deemed hazardous, and by some impracticable, there was much 
difficulty in getting persons to undertsdce it, when Earl Grower, now 
Marquis of Stafford, William Young, Esq. of Maryhill near Elgin, 
and Patrick Sellar, Esq. of Westfield, came forward, and became 
responsible for the completion of the work. To Mr Young, who 
was commissioner on the estate of the noble proprietors of this 
county, it is but doing justice to observe, that the mound, which 
was finished in 1816, and is accounted one of the most complete 
structures of the kind in Britain, in a great measure owes its exist- 

* On the middle of one of the parapets of this bridge stands a small obelisk, with 
this Celtic inscription : *< Morfbear cbatt do cheann na droichle big gaim claim chat- 
tich nam buadh." 

At « Ceann na droichte W^,** the end of the Little Bridge, the cattich were wont to 
muster. Their " gathering"* also, or rallying " Piabarachiy** which is accounted one 
of the best, bears the name of " Ceann na droichU big.** But tliis Pisbarachd has like- 
wise long borne the name of " Ribingorm Mhorfkear Ctiattj'* i. e. The Earl of Suther. 
land's Blue or Green Ribband. 



GOLSPIE* 41 

enoe ; and it will remain a lasting monument of his ability and 
exertions. 

LittJe Ferry. — The Little Ferry inlet, or the estuary, as it may 
be regarded, of the Fleet, forms a harbour at the distanc!^ of about 
a mile from the bar formed at its mouth. The depth of the water 
over this bar, during spring tides, is, at fiill tide, about 16 feet, and 
at ebb tide 4^ feet ; and, during neap tides, is, at fiill tide, about 
16, and, at ebb tide, 6 feet. When the Fleet is flooded, the depth 
is, in a small degree, increased. The harbour is about 259 yards 
broad, has about 18 feet water at ebb tide, and affords perfect safe- 
ty, in any weather. Above this narrow part, the sea, at full tide, 
expands over a space of about 1500 imperial acres. The harbour 
of the Little Ferry is frequented by trading vessels, which import 
lime, coal, bone^ust, and merchant goods, for this parish and dis- 
trict, and export grain, wool, whisky, &c At Dunrobin there is 
a pier for the use of small vessels. 

EecUnastiad State. — The parish church is situated about the 
middle of the parish, and so near the sea, that the glebe only in-r 
terrenes. The situation is convenient for the parishioners ; the 
village, which contains from a third to a half of the population, 
being in its immediate vicinity, and most of the remaining part, 
with the exception of a few families, who are not far from the neigh- 
bouring parish churches, being within less than three miles of it; and 
the extremities of the parish, which are more thinly inhabited, being 
in any direction scarcely more than six miles distant from the church. 
The church was built in 1738. The southern aisle was added in 
1 751, and at present the building is in good repair. It is fitted to ao-» 
conunodate 565 persons. — The manse was built in 1827. — A large 
proportion of the glebe is sand and gravel. Of good glebe land 
there is scarcely the legal measure of four and a-half acres ; and 
it has become greatly deteriorated by being cut up by a neighbour- 
ing stream. Calculating according to the average rent of land in 
this parish, which is L. 1, 2s., its value annually is evidently smalL 
There b no grass gl^be. — The annual stipend consists of 131 bolls 
of victual, old county measure, and L. 75 in money. There is no 
separate allowance for sacramental expenses. The teinds are 
supposed to be exhausted. There is no public place of worship 
of any kind in the parish, but the parish church. There is no 
catechist. 

^The average number of communicants in this parish, which is 70, 
must, when compared with the population, appocnr strikingly small ; 



42 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

but this is only what is general in Highland parishes. The chief 
cause of it is, that the views generally entertained by the lower classes 
of the nature of the Lord's supper are inveterately superstitious. 
Very many of those, who are not only decent in their lives, but even 
religious, are laid gray-headed in their graves without having once 
engaged in the Christian duty of the Lord's supper. Where the 
population of many parishes, consisting of several thousands, are 
assembled in one parish, it is evident, indeed, that, with other evils, 
there cannot be the due proportion of conmiunicants. On some 
occasions, too, the strange anomaly exists in these parts of many 
of the illiterate laity being permitted to address those large assem- 
blages of people, who but too generally regard their doctrines as the 
dictates of inspiration. 

Education* — The schools in the parish are the parochial one 
and a female school. During the winter months, however, in the 
more distant parts, parents occasionally unite in employing a youth 
to teach very young children. The branches taught in the pa- 
rochial school are Latin, Greek, the elements of geometry, book- 
keeping, arithmetic, writing, English reading, and the catechisms 
of the Established church. The schoolmaster's annual salary is 
L. 34, 4s. 4d., and the annual average amount of school fees is 
about L. 26. The salary of the teaclier of the female school is 
L. 8, and is granted by the Society for Propagating Christian 
Knowledge in the Highlands. The school is patronized by her 
Grace the Duchess of Sutherland, who gives the teacher a house 
and garden, with other donations, equivalent to L. 6. It is found 
to be very useful. The branches taught in it are sewing and 
English reading. From its immediate vicinity to the parochial 
school, other branches are not here required. There are few chil- 
dren in the parish who cannot read ; and those few are the chil- 
dren of the fishermen, some of whom, from the erroneous idea 
that to persons of their calling education would be no advantage, 
are indifferent about the instruction of their children. Those 
children, who are taught to read, are also taught to write ; and most 
of the youth can, in some degree, both write and read. Of the 
elderly people, indeed, there are a number, probably 80, who 
can do neither. The desire on the part of parents to educate their 
children is greatly increasing. The situation of the parish school, 
which is in the immediate neighbourhood of the village, is well 
calculated to induce the general attendance of the children. The 



GOLSPIE. 43 

facilities of education have considerably improved the moral and 
social condition of the people. 

Poi3T. — In regard to the poor of the parish, it may be observed, 
that though they all receive some aid from church collections, and 
from other fiinds, there are none of them wholly supported by these. 
The average number on the poors-roll is somewhat more than 
sixty. The average sum which each of them annually receives is 
8s., and occasionally some meal. 'Jlie average annual collections in 
church are about L. 1 9. There is the interest of money lent in behalf 
of the poor, amounting to about L. 7. And her Grace the Duchess 
of Sutherland, besides many charitable pensions, and many liberal 
donations in money, meal, clothing, and house accommodation, 
annually contributes L. 6 to the parochial fund for the poor. Out 
of this general fund there is a small annual allowance to the ses- 
sion-clerk, precentor, kirk-officer, and treasurer. The average 
amount of church collections for other charitable and religious 
purposes may be L. 15 a-year. 

There is in the parish a house for the accommodation of seve- 
ral poor widows, which was sometime since built at the joint ex- 
pense of the present Ladies Surrey and Grosvenor. 

Literature, — It may be observed, that the gentlemen of this 
and the neighbouring parishes have formed themselves into a read- 
ing club. They purchase new books of merit, which, after being 
circulated among the members, are sold to supply the means of 
purchasing others. 

Fairs, Inns, Fuel, — There is an annual fair held near the vil- 
lage of Golspie, in October, chiefly for the sale of country cattle ; 
but merchants and pedlars also resort to it, with goods suited to 
the wants of the country people. There is another fair of a simi- 
lar nature, but of little importance, in May. In the vicinity of 
the village, there is an inn, lately built, large, commodious, well- 
furnished, and well-kept. It is allowed to be the best country 
inn in the Highlands, and is beautifully and picturesquely situated. 
In the village itself, there are several smaller inns, or alehouses, 
for the use and accommodation of the lower orders ; and hitherto 
these houses do not seem to have had any particularly bad efiects 
on the morals of the people. The fuel used in the parish is coal 
and peat. The coal is imported from Newcastle, and generally 
costs 2s. per barrel. The peats are cut and seasoned in the 
mosses, at the distance of some miles from the coast ; and were 
the expense of cutting, seasoning, and carriage, duly calculated, it 



44 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

would probably be found that the price comes little, if at all, short 
of that of imported coal. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Since the time of the last Statistical Account, the greatest 
changes, as already noticed, have taken place in the state of the 
parish. At that period, the injurious system of sub-letting prevail- 
ed ; and both the knowledge and the practice of farming were ex- 
ceedingly defective. The place of Dunrobin excepted, there was 
neither draining, trenching, nor fallow, and very little green crop» 
besides potatoes and a little pease. There were few fences, and 
these few bad. The plough, which was rudely constructed, had 
no part of it iron but the coulter, the sock, and the hook, at tibe 
end of the beam. Four country garrans^ or Highland ponies, were 
yoked to the plough abreast : and the driver walked in front of them 
backwards. There were few wheeled vehicles thjit deserved the name. 
Com, fuel, &C. were carried in a kind of frame called crubaffSj fast- 
ened on horseback, to a wooden saddle, that rested on a straw maU 
The public road was the only one, and that itself indifferent The 
dwellings of the subtenants were wooden frames thatched with turf, 
and of these, one end accommodated cattle, horses, and sometimes 
pigs. One end also of the turf covering of these huts, saturated as 
it was with soot, was annually stript off and converted into manure. 
With such dwellings the dress of their tenants corresponded. With 
the exception of tlie mtUchj or cap, and handkerchief of the wo- 
men, and perhaps the men's neckcloths, their clothes consisted of 
coarse tartans, kelt, and blanket stuffs. The state of things is now 
very different Farming is brought to the highest degree of ex- 
cellence, that industry, skill, and expense can bring it to. Nor is it 
too much to say, that the system of fanning, at present followed in 
this .parish, does not fall short of the best modes of farming, in any 
part of the kingdom. The farmers have very good houses, with 
two public rooms ; and they have their wheeled carriages for per- 
sonal and family use. Sub-letting is abolished. The small te- 
nants, or cottars, live in decent cottages built with stone and 
lime, or clay, with glass windows ; and their fare is correspond- 
ingly better. Tradesmen and ploughmen, on Sundays, wear 
good long coats of English manufacture, white shirts, hats, and 
silk handkerchiefs ; and the females of the same class wear good 
cotton gowns, shawls or scarfs, and many of them straw bonnets. 
There are, of all descriptions of road, in the parish, about forty 
miles, — of which about twelve were made by the Parliamentary 



GOLSPIE. 45 

Commissioners and the county; about eighteen, partly at the 
expense of the proprietors, and partly by an assessment on the te- 
nantry ; and ten miles at the sole expense of the proprietors* In 
no county of Scotland was there ever, in so short a time, the same 
length of road made, as there has been, within the last twenty 
years, in the county of Sutherland. In former times, the inter- 
nal communication was by mere paths or tracks, and many parts 
of it were all but inaccessible. Now, several hundred miles of 
good road intersect the county in every direction ; and there is free 
and easy access to every part of it. These roads were made chiefly at 
the expense of the noble proprietors of this parish, and under the 
able management of James Loch, Esq. M. P. their commissioner. 
In the months of July and August of last year, ldd2, that aw- 
ful scourge, the Asiatic cholera, by which so many millions of the 
human race have been destroyed since 1817, visited this parish 
also. Every possible precaution was adopted, and every known 
preventive was used^ to ward it ofL A Board of Health was 
established, large subscriptions and assessments of money were 
made, aU manner of cleanliness was enforced, the poor were fed 
and clothed well, vagrants were kept away ; and the result was, 
that, although the fishermen of the village of Golspie brought 
the infection from the fishing station of Helmsdale, and although 
the disease made its appearance in the village, in its most malig- 
nant form, quickly carrying off three individuals, the infection was, 
by the mercy of Divine providence, arrested and destroyed, while 
a very great proportion of the population of other villages, in the 
adjacent county, and separated only by a few miles of sea, perished 
miserably. Too much praise cannot be bestowed on the pro* 
prietors and farmers of this county, for the heavy expense which 
they incurred, and the great exertions which they made, on the peri- 
lous occasion. It most fortunately happened, that the Duke and 
Duchess of Sutherland, with Lord and Lady Staffed and their 
family, were at the time at Dunrobin, and it were great injustice 
not to record here the most humane, liberal, and unwearied atten- 
tion, which they paid to the safety of the population, and especially 
to the health and comfort of the poor. 

March 1833. BevUed September 1834. 



PARISH OF ROGART. 

PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. JOHN MACKENZIE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — Roaird is the name of this parish in the Gaelic lan- 
guage. How it came to be written and pronounced Rogart can 
only be accounted for by the diflSculty in pronouncing the name 
to those who did not speak that language. It is evident that Ro- 
gart is a modification of Roaird. Various etymologies have been 
assigned to this word. The most probable is, that it is an abbre- 
viation of two Gaelic words, rhidhe^ an inclined plain, and ardj 
high. In the district of the parish called Roaird, which gives the 
name to the whole parish, there is Roaird-bheff and Roaird'-mhor ; 
both inclined plains of no great extent, but one, Roaird-iheg of less 
extent than the other, as the name implies. Rhidhe and JRhidhea' 
chaUf in the pluralj are conunon in Sutherland, and all of them are 
used as names of inclined plains. To give an idea of the liberty 
used with Gaelic names^ when attempted in another language, it 
may be mentioned, that Rhidheachan is found in this county, and 
in the neighbouring county, Ross-shire, to have passed into Rhives. 
In like manner, Roaird has been changed into Rogart. 

Extent^ Boundaries. — This parish is of nearly equal length and 
breadth, and forms a square of ten miles. It is bounded on the 
east by parts of the parishes of Dornoch and Golspie ; on the 
south by parts of the parishes of Dornoch and Criech ; on the 
west by the parish of Lairg ; and on the north by parts of the 
parishes of Clyne and Farr. It comprehends, on the south side, 
the whole of Strathfleet ; on the north side, the upper division of 
Strathbrora, and an interjacent space, consisting of low hills, flat 
moors, meadows, small lakes, and the courses of many bums issu- 
ing from them to form the river Fleet, and to swell the Brora, 
which has its source in a distant mountain. 

Topographical Appearances. — Strathfleet, in the language of the 



ROOART. 47 

inhabitants, is called Strathfloid; and the small river passing 
through it is called in that language Flodag the diminutive of Flodj 
a word signifying inundation, to which this stream is subject. This 
strath is ten miles in length, and of irregular width. In some parts it 
is three-fourths of a mile wide; in other parts it is contracted to with- 
in a few yards of the stream passing through it Both sides of it rise 
to an elevation of from 500 to 700 feet above the course of the 
Fleet, — ^in some parts abruptly, but generally in sloping banks, 
which are occasionally cultivated and produce crops. 

The part of Strathbrora which is in this parish bears a resem- 
blance to Strathfleet, — the difference being such as may be ac- 
counted for by the action of a larger body of water, which has in 
some places cut deeper into the rock, forming chasms. In other 
parts, the water meets with less resistance, the valley is widened, 
and lengthened haughs are formed. Being nearer the mountain- 
ous region, the aspect of this strath is of a more rugged character 
than that of Strathfleet 

The hills between these straths are nearly of equal height, and 
rise to an elevation of from 800 to 900 feet above the level of the 
sea. The meadows, which are found around some of the lakes 
and in those flat parts which are subject to irrigation from burns 
passing through, are not of great extent, and form but a small 
proportion to the extent of the moors. 

Climate, — The climate of the county of Sutherland, from its 
latitude and exposure to the winds of the German and Northern 
Ocean, is sharp and cold. The greater part of Rogart, owing to 
its elevation, and to its having but little shelter from the east wind, 
and being swept by every blast coming from the high mountains of 
Assynt and Strathnaver, is much exposed to the severity of a cold 
atmosphere. Yet snow does not lie long here, and frost is not very 
intense. Winter, however, leaves us but reluctantly, continuing 
during the greater part of spring ; and it often arrives in the last 
month of harvest At the times alluded to, we have our most dis- 
agreeable weather, — cold easterly winds, bringing sleet or rain. 
The most frequent winds, however, are the north and east, but 
the south-west blows with greatest violence. 

Summer here has a great proportion of dry weather ; as the rains 
which fall among the high mountains in this season do not extend 
to this place. A dry scorching summer is more frequently a 
subject of complaint with us than one too rainy. Nor can it be 



48 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

said that we have more rain in winter than there is in other parts 
of this island. 

Notwithstanding the coldness of our climate, however, it is re- 
mariuibly healthy. With the exception of catarrhs in the months 
of March and October, diseases but rarely visit the inhabitants. 

Hydrography, — The lakes in this parish are very numeroins, but 
not remarkable for extent Of Loch Craggie, in its western ex- 
tremity, anglers i^ak with rapture for the size and quality of its 
trout, and for the excellent sport it affords. In the north-eastern 
extremity of the parish, there are two lakes in which fine trout are 
found. Their name implies that they were once on this account 
held in estimation ; b6th being called Loch^beannadied^ Lake of 
Blessinff, 

The only rivers are those already mentioned, the Fleet and th^ 
Brora. Even the larger* of these is insignificant in summer and 
harvest ; but both when in flood, discharge a great body of water, 
and often cover almost the whole of the plains in their courses, so as 
to present the appearance of a succession of lakes. The Fleet 
has its origin in a rising ground, forming the boundary between the 
parishes of Rogart and Laiig. After traversing ten miles, from 
west to east, in many windings, fringed with birch and alder bushes, 
it enters an extensive plain, once covered by every tide from the 
Moray Frith, but now encroached upon only by this stream : the 
waters of the sea being completely shut out by the earthen mound, 
at the head of the lAtile Ferry. In this place, where it is not con- 
fined by the skill and enterprise of the agriculturist, it appears 
almost completely lost among rapidly growing alders, untfl it 
collects itself into a pool, or forms a considerable lake, before being 
discharged into the sea by the sluices of the mound. The Brora is 
about twice the size of the Fleet, has its origin in the high moun- 
tain Beinclibric, and passes from west to east, traversing ten miles 
of this parish in its course. It then enters the parish of Clyne, 
where it unites with another river called the Blackwater, and pas- 
sing through that parish, it joins the Moray Frith at a village to 
which it has given its name, and affords a harbour for light shipping. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — Rogart lies chiefly on gneiss rock, in 
which the only veins seen are of quartz. It is of a large-grained 
kind, with a great proportion of mica. It is used in building the 
houses and cottages of the inhabitants, and is found an excellent 
material for the purpose, being easily wrought 



ROGAUT. 49 

Over the whole of the parish, rolled blocks of granite are seen in 
great numbers on the surface ; in some parts, if viewed from a dis- 
tance, the surface appears covered with them. They are found no 
less numerous under ground in hollows, where there has been an 
accumulation of soil to cover them. 

Of the whole surface of Rogart, moss forms the largest propor- 
tion. In some parts it is very deep, found often to a depth of 
twelve feet. In those parts where its depth is less, its fresh ap- 
pearance indicates rapid growth. The soil in the valleys, and 
covering the sides of the hills, is sandy and gravelly. The land 
abounds in springs ; consequently, to be brought into a state of 
culture, it requires to be intersected with frequent drains. 

Plants. — The moors produce heather, deers'-hair and cotton- 
grass, intermixed in proportions said to be highly favourable for 
the feeding of sheep. The hills are covered with heather on the 
tops, but on their sides a mixture of fine grasses is to be found ; 
and, around their bases, red and white clover, and mountain daisy, 
are conmion. The meadows and straths are covered with the 
meadow grasses prevalent in similar situations, and, where irrigated, 
are very productive. 

Zoology, — Roe-deer may always be seen here, but not in great num- 
bers. The red mountain-dee r is occasionally seen crossing the moors 
to or from the mountains north of this, which abound in that species 
of animal. The gray mountain-hare is here common on the higher 
grounds. The brown hare, and of late the rabbit, are found on 
the lower grounds, — the former exceedingly numerous. Moor- 
fowl are still abundant, though less so, it is said, than they have 
been. Black game, which are said to increase as moor-fowl de- 
crease, are become very numerous. 

Goats were once a part of the stock of the inhabitants, but they 
have now nearly disappeared, giving way to more profitable animals. 
There is a species of sheep, of small size, formerly the only kind 
known here, still reared by the occupants of small lots of land, and 
much commended for fineness of fleece and excellence of mutton ; 
but they are likely soon to disappear also, — those who have them 
appreciating the better size of the Cheviot sheep. 

A great variety of trout is found in the lakes. Salmon, grilse, 
and sea trout, are taken in the Brora and Fleet. The trout make 
for the bums falling into, or issuing from, the lakes, in the month 
of October, to deposit their spawn ; and their spawning season lasts 

SUTHERLAND. D 



50 SUTHERLAND8HIRE. 

generally till the beginning of November, and seldom or never ex- 
tends beyond the middle of that month. Salmon begin to spawn 
fourteen days later, and before the middle of December ; that 
process being finished, they return to the sea. Salmon enter the 
Fleet in the end of May. They are found, and were taken, till a 
recent act of Parliament prohibited, at the mouth of the Brora, as 
early as the end of January ; but they are not seen in the upper 
part of that river, — the part belonging to this parish, — till the 
commencement of summer. 

II. — Civil History. 

Land-'Oioners. — The Duke and Duchess of Sutherland are pro- 
prietors of nearly the whole parish of Rogart. The other proprie- 
tors of land in it are, George Dempster, Esq. of Skibo, and Hugh 
Rose Ross, Esq. of GlastuUich and Cromarty, who have each a 
small patch in it unconnected with their principal estates. 

Antiquities, — At a place called Corrie, where there are indica- 
tions of the existence in former times of oak trees, imperfect re- 
mains of a Druidical circle are to be seen. The inhabitants, quite 
unconscious of the sacrilege, finding the stones composing it suit- 
able, carried them away for the purposes of building, so that but 
few of them are now to be seen. 

Tradition accords with the rude but certain monuments of battles, 
in showing that Rogart was in past times the scene of violent con- 
tests, and of much bloodshed. A ridge of hills crossing the eastern 
extremity of the parish from north to south, and extending from 
Strathbrora to Strathfleet, is covered with tumuli, which appear 
to have been thrown over the slain where they fell. One of these 
was opened lately by dikers erecting a fence around the glebe, 
having no idea that they invaded the resting place of a warrior, 
probably of an ancestor. They found in the centre of it a stone 
coffin, containing mouldered bones, and the blade of a dirk, or 
short dagger, which seemed to have been wielded by the hand 
of some leader, being of a more costly description than the com- 
mon dirk, coated with gold, and marked with lines, crossing one 
another at acute angles, and terminating in the point. It is likely 
that this bloody instrument was broken, and covered, in the wound 
it inflicted, and was thus retained in the body of its victim. 

The Earl of Montrose on his return from Orkney passed un- 
molested through Strathfleet, where he and his followers halted 
for a night at a place called Rhin. The stillness and beauty of 



ROGART. 51 

that spot forms a striking contrast with the stru^le and disaster 
to which the next day's march conducted him. From Rhin he 
marched to Strathoicail, on the heights of which this bravest of 
unfortunate men fought his last battle. 

III. — Population. 
A continued decrease is found in the population of the parish 

of Rogart since the year 1811, — ^as may be seen by comparing the 
census of that year with the census of 1831, and with these sta- 
tistics. This decrease has been caused by emigration to the pro- 
vinces subject to Britain in North America,— chiefly to Upper 
Canada. 





Population in 1801, 


• 


-2022 




1811, 


• 


2148 




1821, 


- 


1966 




1831, 


. 


1805 


For the last : 


seven years the average number of births is 








deaths. 


- 






marriages, 


The number 


of persons under 15 years of age, 


is 


• 




betwixt 15 and 30, 


. 


» 




30 and 50, 


• 


. 




50 and 70, 


_ 


. 




upwards of 70, 


- 





40 
29 
10 
685 
413 
350 
236 
64 
The number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of 
age, is-- - - - - 25 

The number of unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age» is -46 

families is • - - - 386 

The average number of children in each family is - - 3 

The number of femilies in the parish, ... S86 

chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 279 

in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 19 

The number of inhabited houses, ... 986 

houses now building, ... 4 

insane persons, - - - - 3 

fatuous, ..... 3 

dumb persons, - - - - 1 

Language. — The Celtic, or GaeHc, language is spoken by almost 
all the inhabitants. There are a few shepherds who do not speak 
this language ; but their families do. A considerable proportion 
of the inhabitants, however, can converse in the English language ; 
and, in a few years it is likely that none may be found who cannot 
do so. llieir English, being acquired from books, and occasional 
conversation with educated persons, is marked by no peculiarity, 
except a degree of mountain accent and Celtic idiom ; so that it 
is more easily intelligible to an Englishman than the dialect spoken 
by the Lowland Scotch. 

Charojcter of the People. — A desire for information . prevails 
among them, as, indeed, among all the inhabitants of the High- 



52 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

land districts ; and the degree of information they possess is 
more than could be expected from the advantages enjoyed by them. 
The young, in general, read Gaelic and English ; and some 'of them 
write and understand arithmetic Such of those advanced in years 
as have been taught to read, delight much in the Holy Scriptures, 
and in some of the popular works of the early divines of the church 
of Scotland, — ^which, having been read and talked of for genera- 
tions, have acquired a sacredness of character. They are all Pres- 
byterians, and firmly attached to the religion and modes of worship 
of their forefathers. They have hitherto been respectful to per- 
sons in stations superior to their own, peaceable and orderly in their 
intercourse with one another, and have seldom or never been charged 
with the commission of crime. Smuggling, happily for their cha- 
racter and circumstances, has been checked. Poaching in game, 
or in the salmon fisheries, is not attempted by them. 

There have been three illegitimate births in the parish during 
the last three years. 

IV. — Industry. 

A great part of the population of this parish is employed as 
day-labourers for more than half the year. The men find employ- 
ment in the making or repairing of roads ; or from the tacksmen in 
parishes along the coast as extra labourers in spring and harvest- 
time ; or, during the season of the herring fishing, in curing fish at 
the fishing stations. The women find employment with the farmers 
in weeding, hoeing, and cutting down crops, and with the fish-curers 
at the proper season. A certain portion of time is, of course, oc- 
cupied in the cultivation of their own lots, and in securing the 
crops which these produce. Some elderly persons of both sexes, 
helped by children not attending schools, are always occupied at 
home in herding cattle. 

Agriculture and Sheep^Farming. — The proportion of land in 
culture and yielding crops is small, and must always be so, while 
naked rock forms a considerable part of the surface of the pa- 
rish. It has, however, for several years back, been increasing ; 
and it is likely, that, in the course of some years, what is now 
occupied by letters, if left in their occupation, may become culti- 
vated where practicable. The quantity of land cultivated, or oc- 
casionally in tillage, does not at present exceed 1200 acres. 

Nearjy the half of the parish in value, and more than the half in 

extent, is laid under sheep of the Cheviot breed. It is no less than 

3 



ROGART. 53 

62,800 acres in extent Probably 1000 acres might yet be added 
to the cultivated land. 

Husbandry. — The pasture for sheep is good, and the sheep 
reared on it are said to be of the best quality of their kind. Sur- 
face draining, which has been carried on to a great extent, has 
added much to the quantity, and improved the quality, of feeding 
for sheep. In this species of improvement, little remains to be now 
done here by the sheep-farmer. Large farms are let on leases of 
nineteen, and small lots on leases of seven, years. 

Live-stock, — The number of sheep of all kinds is 6420 ; of 
black cattle, (heads of,) 1079; of horses, 276; of pigs, 210. 

Rent, — 

The rent of sheep-lands is • L. 648 

of corn-fiinns, - - 281 

of lands under lotters, - 569 



Total rent, - L. 1498 

Woods, — Timber as yet cannot be mentioned as one of the pro- 
ducts of the parish of Rogart. A small space in Strathfleet, about 
twenty acres, having some native plants of oak, was enclosed, and 
planted with larch and common fir. The appearance of this small 
plantation, which has been lately thinned for the first time, afibrds 
sufficient encouragement for planting in situations equally favour- 
able ; of which situations the sides of that strath, and several other 
parts in the parish, present many. Small alders are to be seen along 
the streams ; and patches of dwarf birch are common. Both of 
these, when in foliage, enliven the aspect, and relieve the ruder 
features of the scenery ; but otherwise they are of no value. 

Produce, — The average gross amount and value of raw produce 
yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as 
follows : — 

Grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic animali, 3000 
bolls at las. per boll, .... L.2250 
Potatoes, 1500 bolb at 8ft. per boll, - . . 600 
Hay, 10,000 stones at 4d. - . - . 166 13 4 
Land in pasture, rating it at 10s. per cow or full-grown ox, grazed, or 
that may be grazed for the season ; at 2b. per ewe or full-grown 
sheep, pastured, or that may be pastured for the year, - 1300 
Miscellaneous produce, including turnips, cabbages, &c. not enume- 
rated under any of the foregoing heads, ... 400 



Total yearly value of raw produce raised, - 1^.4716 13 4 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Means of Communication, — A road extends through the whole 
length of the parish along Strathfleet ; and another crosses its 



54 SUTHERLANDSHIBE. 

breadth at the eastern end, from Strathfleet to Strathbronu 
The road in Strathfleet is a continuation of a line of road {torn 
Golspie to Tongue ; from which roads branch off in various direc- 
tions. From the cross-road to Strathbrora there is a road branch- 
ing off to Golspie, and forming a more direct and shorter way to 
that village for the mhabitants of the interior of the parish* Along 
these lines of road there are sufficient bridges. 

There is no post-office in this parish. Letters to and from it, 
for which there is a receiving-office at Pitentrail, are carried twice 
a-week by a mail-gig running between Golspie and Tongue. It 
is probable, other improvements continuing to advance, that the 
communication may become more frequent. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church and manse are situated, not 
far from each ofher, in one of the most elevated parts of the pa- 
rish, commanding an extensive and romantic view, — in which the 
peaks of almost all the high mountains in the county of Sutherland 
form a part. This is a source of enjojTnent which is dearly pur- 
chased, by the exposure to the wind and storm. ^ The manse was 
built in the year 1776, and the church in 1777. The church has 
undergone some repair, and the manse has frequently been re- 
paired ; but, owing to the very exposed situation of the latter, 
it cannot be said to be in a good condition. For the parish, 
the situation of the church is most inconvenient, — being in its ex- 
treme boundary on the east Consequently, some of the parishion- 
ers travel ten miles in coming to hear sermon ; which, being doubled 
before they return to their homes, is a severe exertion, though it 
be cheerfully made, even in the short days of winter. The dis- 
tance of the parishioners from the manse is also productive of much 
trouble and inconvenience to them. Having few besides their 
minister whom they consult, various and often recurring are the 
occasions which oblige them to travel from their place of resi- 
dence to his. 

The minister's stipend is L. 138, 14s. 2^\d. Sterling, and 15 
bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck, 3 lippies, half-meal and half-barley, includ- 
ing the allowance for communion elements; so that he draws 
L..3, Is. 5d. from Exchequer, to make his income equal to the 
minimum stipend in the Church of Scotland. The glebe con- 
sists of arable and pasture land. The arable part has lately been 
considerably increased, by trenching small sjpots capable of im- 
provement : so that it may be about eighteen acres in extent A 



ROGART. 55 

patch of green pasture, rocks, and spots covered with stinted heather, 
extend its surface to about twenty-five acres. Occupied alone, its 
value is not much, — servants, horses, and farming implements suf- 
ficient for the culture of a small farm being required for it But if 
held along with an extent of land which would enable him to cul- 
tivate it conveniently, the occupant might find the arable part of 
it worth 15s. per acre, and the pasture of corresponding vadue. 

Tlie church is the only place of worship in the parish. There 
is a catechist supported by an allowance from the inhabitants, to 
which the minister contributes : he labours constantly among them. 
The average number of communicants is 90. 

Education. — There are three schools at present in operation in 
the parish, — the parochial school, a school supported by the General 
Assembly, and a GaeUc school, supported by the Gaelic School 
Society. In the parochial school, English reading, writing, arith- 
metic, book-keeping, mensuration, and land-surveying, are taught. 
In the General Assembly's school, English reading, Gaelic read- 
ing, writing, arithmetic, and sometimes the rudiments of Latin, 
are taught In the Graelic school, the reading of the Gaelic only 
is taught. 

The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. 4^d. 
The average amount of school fees received by him is L. 16. The 
salary of the General Assembly schoolmaster is L. 20. The ave- 
rage amount of school fees received by him is L. 2, 10s. 

The teacher of the Gaelic school is not allowed to take fees, by 
the regulations of the society. He is not stationary in any place. 
His salary is L. 25. To these teachers the requisite accommo- 
dations are given. Fees are exigible from those who can pay 
them in the General Assembly's school, at the same rate as in 
the parochial ; but the greater part of the scholars are not in cir- 
cumstances to afford them. In the parochial school, the fees per 
quarter are, for English reading, 2s. ; English reading and writ- 
ing, 2s. ; English reading, writing, and arithmetic, ds. ; book- 
keeping, 10s. ; mensuration and land-surveying, 10s. Many of 
the inhabitants cannot read or write : Of these, the number of all 
ages above six years, given in the Report to the General Assem- 
bly's Committee in 1832, was 842 ; and the number betwixt six 
and twenty years, 290. 

There is a district of the parish, Barrschol and Craiggies^ con- 
taining a population of about 200, which is four miles distant from 



56 SUTHERLANOSHIRE. 

the parochial school, and has no other school within reach. 
There is another district of the parish, in which some families re- 
side, Braes of Langwel and Achinluachrach^ at a still greater dis- 
tance from any permanent school, in which the Gaelic Society's 
teacher at present officiates. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — On an average of years, the num- 
ber of paupers regularly receiving parochial aid may be stated at 84 ; 
but, in addition to these, there are several who receive occasional 
aid. Persons admitted on the poors' roll are generally advanced 
in age ; and charges for the interment of paupers form a consider- 
able expense on the fund. This fund consists of a yearly donation 
from the Ducliess of Sutherland, regularly made, but depending 
on her Grace's good will, interest of L. 200 bequeathed by a be- 
nevolent individual, a native of the parish, and the church col- 
lections, the yearly average amount of which is L. 16. The 
average annual allowance to each pauper for some years back has 
been 4s. 9d. It has been felt degrading to receive parochial re- 
lief ; but there are many applicants for it who are rejected. 

Inns. — There are three houses in the parish, and one on the 
confines of it, licensed to retail spirits. They are found injurious 
to the morals and circumstances of the working classes. 

FueL — Moss, cut as peats in the months of May and June, 
and abounding of the best quality at no great distance from the 
inhabitants, is the fuel used by all. It is procured at considerable 
expense of time and labour ; but the very poorest never fail to 
supply themselves with a stock sufficient for the year's consump- 
tion. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
In the parochial school, writing and accounts have been so 

well taught for several years back, that many young men have set 
out from the parish, and found employment, some as clerks in 
mercantile towns, and some on plantation estates in the West In- 
dies. In general, these are reported to be persevering and indus- 
trious ; and small remittances frequently made to poor relatives, 
afford a pleasing proof that they are prosperous. Were the means 
of acquiring education given more fully, there is reason to con- 
clude that, in every respect, an improvement in the condition of 
the inhabitants must follow. 

Roads and bridges justly claim particular mention in the im- 
provements which have taken place here, since the time of the last 



ROGART. 57 

Statistical Account. They have changed the mode, as well as im- 
proTed the facility, of every species of carriage. Sledges, which may 
soon become one of the objects interesting to the antiquary, were 
formerly the best means of carriage which those in better circum^ 
stances could use in farming, and for other purposes. Now, almost 
every poor man who cultivates a croft of land, has his wheeled cart. 

The greatest change has taken place in the habits of the people 
since the last Account. They are now very industrious in general, 
and surpassed by none around them as willing, skilful, and active 
l^ourers in all those kinds of work which the extensive and varied 
improvements carried on in the county have supplied to its po- 
pulation. 

The traveller interested in the comfort of the working-classes 
must regard the cottages in this parish as pleasing objects ; and 
their number, seen, as they often are, in picturesque situations, must 
strike every observer, as giving life and interest to the scene pre- 
sented to his view. In no part of the North Highlands, are there 
so many well built neat-looking cottages as in the county of Suther- 
land. Whoever sees them, must form a favourable idea of the 
industry of the inhabitants, and of the encouragement afforded 
them by the proprietor of the soil. 

September 1834. 



Nv 



PARISH OF LAIRG. 

PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. DUNCAN M'GILLIVRAY, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name^ Extent^ Sfc. — This parish seems to lake its name from 

the Gaelic word " Loeg^^ signifying a " footpath." This defini- 
tion agrees well with its situation, as the road from the northern 
to the southern parts of the county, which till recently was only 
a footpath, passes through Lairg. Its length may be stated at 
thirty miles from £• to W., and its greatest breadth is about four- 
teen miles. Its extent in square miles, inclusive of the lake, is 
about 240 miles. 

Topographical Appearcmces. — It is an inland parish, distant 
from the sea about twenty miles; it is bounded on the north by the 
parish of Farr; on the west by Assynt and Eddrachillis ; on the 
south by Criech ;* and on the east by Rogart. There are hills of 
various elevations in most parts of the parish, and on its northern 
boundary stands Ben Clybric, the highest mountain in Suther- 
land. 

From the elevation of the parish above the level of the sea, 
which, though not minutely ascertained, is very considerable, the 
air is always pure, and in winter exceedingly cold. But though a 
good deal of rain and snow fall during the year, the climate can- 
not be called rainy : it is at all events a healthy one, and there are 
no distempers peculiar to the district. 

Hydrography, — There are about twenty lakes in the parish, of 
various extent and depth ; but the principal one is Lochshin, which 
runs very nearly from one end of the parish to the other. It is 
about twenty-four miles long; its mean breadth is at least one mile, 
and its depth in some places thirty fathoms. — There are five rivers 
in the parish, some of them very rapid. Four of these fall into 
Lochshin, and the fifth discharges its waters into the sea. 

Geology, — The geology of the parish has never been surveyed, 
but the principal rocks are coarse granite and trap. There is al- 
so at the side of the lake a large bed of limestone. 



LAIRG. 59 

The most common alluvial deposit is peat, between which and 
the rock, gravel is generally found. In some places, however, the 
soil is loamy and fertile. Immense quantities of fir are found im- 
bedded in the moss in all parts of the parish, — a proof dat at one 
time the ground was covered with wood. At present, however, 
there is none except some birch which grows along the lake. 

IL — Civil Histoey. 
This parish does not appear in remote times to have produced 

any men of great eminence. In the absence of such, a few indi- 
viduals may therefore be mentioned, connected with, or natives of, 
the parish during the last century, and whose names are not un- 
worthy of a place in this record. 

The first we shall notice, is the Rev. John Mackay, a man of 
superior birth and education, who in 1714 was translated to Lairg 
from his native parish of Durness on the west coast Mr Mackay 
found this parish in a rude uncivilized state, owing, among other 
causes, to the lingering remains of popish superstition and igno- 
rance, and to the want of a resident ministry for several years be- 
fore. The Earls of Sutherland, the hereditary sheriffs of the 
county, strenuously endeavoured to remedy this evil, but found it 
difficult to procure faithful ministers of the Gospel, able to admi- 
nister spiritual instruction to the people in their native language. In 
Mr John Mackay the Earl of Sutherland found a man peculiarly fit- 
ted for such a charge, — as, with a profound knowledge of theology, 
acquired at the Universities of Utrecht and Edinburgh, and an 
enlightened zeal for the propagation of the gospel, he had a robust 
bodily frame, and corresponding vigour of mind. The parish af- 
forded ample scope for the exercise of his talents, — disorderly 
habits and immorality prevailing to a great degree, and drunken 
quarrels, even to the effusion of blood, being of frequent occur- 
rence in the churchyard on the Lord's day, after divine service, as 
appears from a fragment of the session records still extant To 
repress such enormities, the Earl invested his new presentee with 
a salutary, though not strictly legal power, to use force and inflict 
corporal punishment when he judged it necessary. Armed with 
this authority, Mr John Mackay proceeded vigorously to the work 
of reformation among his people ; in which he was further assisted 
by a certain air of moral elevation in his bearing, which overawed 
persons of the most profligate character. He sometimes had re- 
course to very strong measures : but at length, by the blessing of 
God on his spiritual labours, he had the satisfaction to see pure 
religion in a flourishing state among his people. He died in 1753, 



60 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

and was succeeded by his son, the Rev. Thomas Mackay, who 
laboured fifty years in the parish with great success. The names 
of both father and son are still remembered with affectionate reve- 
rence. Mr T. Mackay left three sons, of whom the two youngest, 
Hugh and William, distinguished themselves in their respective 
professions. 

Hugh Mackay entered the service of the East India Company 
in 1784, and served in the Madras Native Cavalry during all the 
wars in which the Madras army was engaged. He held an im- 
portant and lucrative staff appointment, that of agent for draught 
and carriage cattle to the army under General Wellesley, now 
the Duke of Wellington, whose favour and confidence he en- 
joyed to a large degree. His staflF situation exempted him from 
regimental duty ; yet such was his high military spirit, that, rather 
than remain idle in the rear, when his brother ofiicers were engaged, 
he solicited permission to join his regiment in the battle of Assaye, 
and obtained from the General a reluctant assent. He was killed at 
the muzzle of the enemy's guns, in that desperate charge of the 
cavalry which decided the fate of the day ; and on the spot where 
he fell, the officers of his regiment have erected a monument to 
his memory. Besides many acts of beneficence at home and 
abroad, he bequeathed at his death L. 500 to the kirk-session of 
this parish, for the use of the poor. 

William, third son of the Rev. Thomas Mackay, was educated 
at the school of this parish, and went to sea at the age of sixteen. 
He made several voyages to the East and West Indies, during the 
intervals between which, he studied the theory of navigation and 
practical astronomy under able teachers in London, and became 
such a proficient in both, as to be esteemed one of the most skil- 
ful navigators in the Indian seas. In 1795, being second officer 
of the ship Juno of Calcutta, he was sent to the coast of Pegu for 
a cargo of teak-wood, and in his return was wrecked on the coast 
of Arracan. The ship sprang a leak, and filled so fast with water, 
in spite of the exertions of her crew, that, but for the nature of her 
cargo, she must inevitably have gone to the bottom. She conti- 
nued, however, to sink till her hull was under water, and then settled 
down, leaving her masts to stand erect. To lighten her burthen 
the main mast was cut away, and the unfortunate crew, seventy-two 
in number, scrambled up the rigging of the two remaining masts to 
escape immediate destruction. In this situation, without food or 
water, but what the rain from Heaven supplied, fourteen individuals, 
including the captain's wife and her maid, lived twenty-three days. 



LAIRG. 61 

Of the riest, some died from hunger, others from thirst, and a few in 
strong convulsions or in raving madness ! The wreck having at length 
taken the ground, fourteen were saved by the merciful interposition 
of Providence in their behalf. The principal survivor was William 
Mackay, and he pubHshed a narrative of the sufferings and escape of 
himself and his companions, — ^which, from the extraordinary nature 
of the facts, and the graphical felicity of his narration, bids fair to 
transmit his name to posterity. * 

Immediately after this wonderful preservation, William Mackay 
returned to sea, and after various adventures, was in 1 801 dispatched 
by the Bengal government in command of a brig, to the Red Sea 
with stores and provisions for General Baird's army, destined to 
co-operate with that of Sir Ralph Abercromby in Egypt. On this 
voyage, he had another marvellous escape from shipwreck, and 
was instrumental, by superior seamanship, under God, in saving 
the lives of many others, as may be seen in the appendix to a late 
edition of the Narrative of the Juno. He died at Calcutta in 1804, 
from an affection of the liver, contracted during the twenty-three 
dreadful days he passed on the wreck, f In the churchyard of this 
parish there is a square monument with a separate tablet for each, 
commemorating, by an appropriate inscription, the characters of 
the Rev. John Mackay, his son, and two grandsons. Concern- 
ing the last, it is said, " their bodies lie in the opposite quarter 
of the globe, but their monument is erected where their memory 
is dearest, near the remains of their pious fathers, and amidst many 
living, whose gratitude will attest, that fraternal affection has not 
overcharged this record of their virtues."J 

* It is a circumstance worthy of remark, that from this narrative Lord Bjrron 
has borrowed some of the finest incidents and most touching images in the de- 
scription of a shipwreck, in his poem of Don Juan. Concerning these passages the 
biographer of the noble poet observes • " It will be felt, I think, by every reader, 
that this Ls one of the instances in which poetry must be content to yield the palm to 
prose. There is a pathos in the last sentences of the seaman's recital (see Narrative 
of the Shipwreck of the Juno, page 26,) which the artifices of metre and rhyme wei e 
sure to disturb, and which, indeed, no verses, however beautiful, could half so natu- 
rally and powerfully express." It deserves to be recorded, to the honour of our Scot- 
tish parochial schools, that this narrative was written by a young man who had gone 
to sea ten years before, without any more education than he received at the school of 
his native parish. 

f A tribute of remembrance, similar to that which his brother's memory received 
from his regiment, has been paid to the memory of W^illiam by his friends, who have, 
in the churchyard of Calcutta, recorded his worth, sufferings, and death. 

^ It may not be irrelevant to subjoin a list of sons or grandsons of the clergy, who, 
at the time above referred to, were on General Wellesley's staff, and all of whom had 
been recommended to him solely by their own merits viz* 

iH, Captain Hugh Mackay, agent for draught and carriage cattle to the army, 
killed at Assaye, 2dd September 180a 

2di Captain, afterwards I^icut.- Colonel Sir Robert Barclay, K. C B., Adjutant- 
General, Son of the Rev. Mr Barclay, minister of Del ting, Shetfcind, deceased. 



62 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

lAxnd'Ovmers.'^The land-owners in the parish are the Duchess 
of Sutherland ; Munro of Poyntziield ; and Rose of Achany. 

Parochial Register. — There is a parochial register regularly 
kept, but the earliest entry is dated only in 1768. 

Antiquities. — There is at a place called " Cnoek a chath" (the 
Hill of the Fight) a number of tumuli, said to be the graves of those 
who fell in a skirmish between the Sutherlands and the Mackays. 
There are also found in various parts of the parish strong circular 
buildings called cairns. What the design of these was, cannot now 
be ascertained. When the people are questioned on this subject, 
the only answer is, — " They were built by the Fingalians." It is a 
curious circumstance, that one of these buildings is always visible 
from the site of another. 

IIL — Population. 

The present population of the parish is about 1100. Wliat 
the ancient state of the population was, cannot now be discovered : 
but about thirty years ago, it was far greater than at present A 
system commenced in this country about the year 1807, which has 
been followed out extensively. As the interior of the country con- 
sisted principally of moor grounds covered with heath, the pro- 
prietors were convinced that these grounds could be more profit- 
ably laid out in sheep-walks, than (as formerly) in the rearing of 
black*cattle. With this view, the interior was let to sheep-farmers, 
and the tenantry were removed either to the coast, or to those 
parts of the country more susceptible of cultivation. Lairg, being 
an inland parish, this circumstance accounts for the great de- 
crease in its population. From Mr Rose's property, the tenants 
were all removed some years before he purchased it ; and although 
the Duchess of Sutherland and Munro of Poyntzfield have still a 
considerable number of tenants, yet they are far less numerous 
than formerly. 

As to the measure of comfort enjoyed by the people, the chief 
want is pasture for their cattle during the summer months. The 
Duchess of Sutherland's tenantry have their land on very mo- 
derate terms; and though their pasture is at present confined, 
this defect (we believe) is to be immediately remedied. The 
other tenants in the parish are certainly less comfortable, — they 

2d, Captain, now Lieut.- CoL, 'William Cunningham, Quarter-master- General, 
grandson of the Rev. Mr Robertson of Gladsmuir, and nephew of Principal Robert- 
son. 

4th, Captain, afterwards Mijor- General Sir John Malcolm, G. C. B., political 
agent to the Governor- General, afterwards governor of Bombay, deceased. 



IrAIRG. 63 

not only want pasture, but their rents far exceed the value of the 
land ; and the appearance of their houses tells but too plainly the 
condition of their inhabitants. The population of the parish is 
now rapidly decreasing, as may be seen from the following state- 
ment : — 

Population in 1801, - 1209 

in 1811, . 1354 

in 1821, . 1094 

in 1831, . 1045 

1. Xtimber of families in the parish, > ... 206 

chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 124 

chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 6 

2. The average number of births yearly for the last 7 years, . . 27 

ordeaths, . . . . 154 

of marriages, ... .3 

Language^ Character^ 8fc. of the People — The language gene- 
rally spoken is the Gaelic ; and, although all the young people 
now speak English, the Gaelic can hardly be said to have lost 
ground, and the people, from being taught to read it, speak it more 
correctly than they did some years ago. 

The inhabitants of the parish are an interesting people ; — they 
are cleanly in their habits, and neat in their dress ; they combine 
intelligence with modesty, and due respect for their superiors ; they 
are sober, moral, and industrious ; and they show a becoming re- 
gard for the ordinances of religion. 

IV. — Industry. 
' Agriculture and Rural Economy. — From the description already 

given of the parish, as consisting principally of moor ground, it 
will be seen that very little can be said under the head of agricul- 
ture. There is no great corn farm in the parish ; and, with the 
exception of the lots occupied by the tenants, (which all lie within 
two and a-half miles of the church,) the whole of it has been turn- 
ed into sheep-walks. The breed of sheep on these farms is the 
Cheviot, and that, too, we believe, of a superior kind, — as much 
attention has been paid to its improvement in all parts of the county. 
The average rent of grazing on the sheep farms does not exceed 
2s. a-head ; but what number of sheep there are on these farms, the 
writer has no means of discovering. The lotters on the Duchess 
of Sutherland's property raise, in favourable seasons, as much corn 
as supplies their families during the year ; and of late, a very de- 
cided improvement has been manifested in the mode of cultivating 

their land. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Means of Commtmication. — There is no market-town in the pa- 
rish, nor any nearer than Dornoch, which is distant from Lairg 



64 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

about twenty miles. This want, however, is little Telt, the people 
having every advantage as regards the means of communication 
with other parts of the country. The roads (of which there are 
about forty miles in the parish) are excellent There is a post- 
office, at which a post-gig carrying passengers arrives twice a-week ; 
and an idea of the means of communication enjoyed may be had 
from the fact, that the London papers are received at Lairg on the 
morning of the fifth day from the day of publication. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parochial church, though distant about 
twenty miles from the western extremity of the parish, is exceed- 
ingly well situated for the convenience of the people, as, with few 
exceptions they all reside in its neighbourhood. It was built in 1 794, 
and is always kept in a good state of repair. It accommodates 
about 500 people, and no seat-rents are exacted. — The manse 
was built in 1795, and was last repaired about eight years ago. 
— The glebe contains ten acres of arable land, and may be 
valued at L. 8 a^year. At one period, there was a considerable 
extent of hill pasture connected with the glebe; this, however, 
has been lost by reason of a circumstance of common occurrence 
in the Highlands, — the clergy neglected, till it was too late, to 
have their glebes regularly designed. — The stipend amounts to 
L. 184, 14s., including L.8, 6s. 8d. for conununion elements. The 
parish church is always well attended : and it is worthy of remark, 
that there is no dissenting place of worship in the whole county 
of Sutherland, — a fact which cannot be affirmed of any other county 
in Britain. 

Education. — The parochial school is the only one in the parish. 
Till lately, there was an Assembly school on Major Munro's 
property, but, owing in a great measure to the thinness of the po- 
pulation, it has been discontinued. This is the only part of the 
parish where a school is required at present. In the parochial 
school, one of the best in the country, all the common branches 
of education are taught The following table of fees, appointed 
by the presbytery, will give an idea of the expense of education. 
English and Gaelic reading, Is. 6d. a quarter; English grammar, 
6s. ; writing, 2s. ; arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; and Latin, ds. a quarter. 
The school is always well attended; and the interest which the 
people now take in the education of their children may be learned 
from the fact, that, whilst the persons above fifteen years of age 
who cannot read or write are to the rest of the population of the 
same age as 1 to 4, or in all 260, the proportion in the case of 
â–  ihc^^^tween 5 and 15 is only as 1 to 10, or 30 in all. The 



LAIRG. 65 

schoolmaster has the legal accommodations. His salary is L. 34, 
4s. 4^d., and this, with school-fees, (which average L. 8, 10s. per 
annum,) makes his yearly income only L. 42, 14s. 4^d. 

Poor. — The poor of the parish are comparatively well provided 
for. The yearly collections are indeed small, not exceeding L. 12; 
but the Duchess of Sutherland makes a yearly allowance to the 
poor of all the parishes in which she Has property : and the poor of 
Lairg have, besides, an annuity of L. 25, being the interest of 
L. 150 left to them by Captain H. Mackay, above-mentioned. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
On the difference between the present state of the parish, and 

its state at the time of the last Statistical Account, it is unneces- 
sary to enlarge. The change produced on the condition of the 
people by the introduction of sheep-farming has been already no- 
ticed, — a change which, though for the time it subjected the 
people to very serious inconvenience, is now showing its salutary 
effects in the increased industry of the population. In proof of 
this, we need only refer to the improvements so rapidly going oti 
in those parts of the parish possessed by the tenantry. 

It may here be observed, that nothing would tend more to ex- 
tend these improvements, than giving the* people increased facili- 
ties for obtaining lime. To accomplish this object, the people 
should be assisted in working the lime quarries found in this pa- 
rish ; nor can we doubt, from the enlightened management of the 
country, that this assistance will soon be afforded. We may far- 
ther recommend, as a grand means for enlarging the minds and im- 
proving the morals of the people, the establishment of a parish li- 
brary. The inhabitants, and especially the young, have a taste for 
reading, and would eagerly avail themselves of such an institution. 
For the awakening of this taste, they have been principally indebted 
to their present -parochial teacher; an individual who has laboured 
for years not merely to communicate the dry husks of mechanical 
learning, but to enlighten the mind, and thus improve the character. 

November 1834. 



SUTHERLAND. E 



PARISH OF FARR. 

PRESBYTERY OF TONGUE, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. DAVID MACKENZIE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The parish appears to have been called Farr, for more 
than 400 years. The name is probably derived from the Gaelic 
word Faire, a watch or centinel ; for, about half a mile north of 
the parish church is the ruin of a circular tower, or Dunn^ the 
nearest to the sea-coast of a chain of these ancient buildings, ex- 
tending for more than twenty-four miles into the interior. Not 
far from this Dunn, is the promontory called Farr Head, from 
which, in clear weather, there is a distinct view of that part of the 
northern ocean,' which lies betwixt Orkney and Cape Wrath. 
From this promontory, a centinel or watch could easily discover 
* vessels approaching the coast, and, during the period of invasions 
from Denmark and Orkney, could speedily communicate the ne- 
cessary intelligence to the inhabitants of the interior, by means of 
the chain of towers, and such signals as were then in'^use. This, 
however, is only a conjecture as to the name of the parish, found- 
ed on the geographical relation of the place now called Farr to 
Strathnaver, where the principal chain of towers was erected, and 
which strath, in ancient times, was the most populous and most 
interesting part of the parish. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is about forty English 
miles long, from Baligil in the north-east to Muadale in the south- 
west ; and varies from eight to twenty miles in breadth, the nar- 
rowest part being in the middle of Strathnaver. It is bounded 
on the north by the Northern Ocean ; on the east, by the parish 
of Reay in Caithness ; on the south, by the parishes of Kildonan 
and Lairg; and on the west, by the parish of Tongue. Its figure 
is irregular. 

Topographical Appearances. — The principal mountain in the 
parish, and the highest in the county, is Bein Chlibrig. It is near 



FARR. 67 

the south-west extremity, and not far from the Parliamentary 
road from Bonar Bridge to Tongue, Its height is 3200 feet 
above the level of the sea. Its form is conical, especially towards 
the summit, which is called " MealTa'neuion^'* that is, the summit 
of the Bird, probably from its being the chief residence of ptar-^ 
migan in the parish. Towards the sea-coast, to the north-east, 
on each side of Strathnaver, there are several hills, of various 
dimensions; but they are all far below the elevation of Chli- 
brig, and have nothing in their form or relative position deserving 
of notice. Near the coast, the low hills exhibit a greater quan- 
tity of bare rock, and are in general more precipitous. 

The greatest quantity and extent of low flat land is in Strath- 
naver and Strathrathy in the interior ; and in Armidale and Mains 
of Strathy on the sea-coast There are several farms along the 
shore, in all of which there is a considerable extent of arable land ; 
but the surface is uneven. 

Straths. — The largest valleys are Strathnaver and Strathrathy, 
Strathnaver, a place from which the Noble family of Sutherland 
have one of their titles, is a beautiful valley, extending from the 
sea-coast, in a south-west direction, — a distance of about twenty- 
eight miles, including the ground along the river, the loch, and 
the Water of Mudale, beyond Lochnaver. Considering the ex- 
tent of this strath, the beauty and variety of the scenery, which 
almost invariably attract the notice of the traveller of taste, and 
the richness of the pasture it everywhere produces, this valley is 
undoubtedly the finest and most interesting Highland strath in the 
whole county of Sutherland. Strathrathy stretches directly south 
from the sea-coast, a distance of twelve miles ; it is about ten miles 
north-east of Strathnaver. Between these, along the sea-coast, 
are situated the valleys of Clachan, where the parish church and 
manse are built, Swordly, Kirtomy, and Armidale ; but these are 
quite diminutive compared to those already described. 

Caves^ Sfc. — There are several caves, natural arches, and fissures, 
along the sea-coast, and a few caverns in the interior. The most 
interesting of the caves are in the Aird of Kirtomy, Strathy, and 
Strathy-point. The finest natural arch is near Farr. It is de- 
scribed in Pennant's Tour, and referred to in the former Statistical 
Account of this parish. The largest cavern in the interior is in 
Cam a'Mhadii in Bein Chhbrig, noted in the traditional history 
of the parish as the retreat of a robber named Chisholm from In- 



68 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

verness-shire, who, more than a hundred years ago, had taken 
shelter there, and for some time supported himself by the deer of 
Bein Chlibrig, and the flocks of the neighbouring tenants. Any 
farther description of the caves and caverns in this parish is con- 
sidered unnecessary in this work. 

Bays^ §*c. — There are about thirteen miles of sea-coast, from 
Naver Bay in the west to Baligil Burn in the east. With the ex- 
ception of Kirtomy and Armidale, and a few more creeks where 
boats can land in moderate weather, the coast is either bold and dan- 
gerous to mariners, being composed of perpendicular or projecting 
rocks, from 20 to 200 feet high, against which the waves of the North- 
ern Ocean break with awful fury ; or there are shallow sands, on which 
heavy surges are almost invariably rolling. The bays are Naver, 
Farr, Kirtomy, Armidale, and Strathy. The principal headlands 
are, Airdniskich, Aird of Farr, Aird of Kirtomy, and Strathy Head. 
From this Head, the Lights of Cape Wrath and Dunnet Head 
are seen in clear weather. 

Climate. — Considering the latitude of this parish, which is 58*^ 
30' north, the temperature is on the whole mild ; and there are no 
diseases prevalent that can be ascribed to any peculiarity of the 
climate. 

Hydrography, — In every district, valley, mountain, and hill of 
this parish, there is an abundant supply of perennial springs of ex- 
cellent water. So far as known to the writer, their chemical pro- 
perties have not been ascertained ; but it is evident many of them 
run on iron ore. The number of fresh-water lochs of various di- 
mensions in the parish is very considerable ; the largest of which 
are Loch Naver^ Loch Coir^na-feam^ and Loch Strathy, But the 
most interesting of the whole is Loch Naver, in respect both of ex- 
tent and scenery. It is 7 miles long, and about I \ miles broad. Its 
depth is ascertained, by sounding, to be in some parts 30 fathoms. 
Its shore is in some places pebbly, in other parts rocky and sandy. 
It is richly supplied from the adjacent hills, mountains, marshes, 
and valley ground, with large tributary streams, especially the rivers 
Mudale and Strathvagasty, which enter the loch near the inn of 
Aultnaharve. The scenery around it is very interesting, having 
Bein Chlibrig at no great distance on the south ; several low hills 
and abrupt rocks nearer its shore ; its banks beautifully skirted 
with a variety of indigenous trees growing to a considerable height ; 
— the distant hills of Kildonan to the south-east, and those of the 
Reay country to the west, appearing in their grandeur from certain 



FAllR. . 69 

points in its vicinity. And there is an excellent road on the north 
side of the loch, from which the tourist can see the whole with ease 
and advantage. 

The principal rivers in the parish are the Naver, the Borgie, and 
the Strathy. The Naver issues from the loch already described, 
near Achness, at which place it receives a large stream running 
from Loch Coir^na-feam. From Achness it runs north-east, a 
distance of eighteen miles, until it enters the ocean at the farm 
of Airdniskech. Besides its supply from Loch Naver and Loch 
Coir-na-fearn, it receives a number of considerable streams in its 
course through the strath, so that, when flooded in winter, it is 
the largest river in the county. The Naver is not rapid in its 
course, the declivity of the strath being very gradual. The 
Strathy flows from the loch of that name, and from the adja- 
cent hills and marshes; and is, when flooded, a large stream. 
The Borgie runs from Loch Loyal in the parish of Tongue ; and 
is, in some parts of its course, the boundary line between this pa- 
rish and Tongue. But its salmon-fishings have been for a long 
time the property of the Noble family of Sutherland. It enters the 
Northern Ocean within a mile of the Naver, at a place in the pa- 
rish of Tongue called Torrisdale. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The rocks and stones in this parish, 
of which immense quantities are to be seen in every direction, 
especially along the coast, appear to be chiefly coarse granite, gneiss, 
and sandstone. In Kirtomy on the sea-coast, there is an exten- 
sive deposit of old red sandstone, mixed with conglomerate. At 
Strathy, there is a large quarry of white sandstone, which takes 
dressing by the chissel ; and near it, a considerable extent of lime- 
stone, from which excellent lime is manufactured for the supply of 
the parishioners. 

The most of the rocks and precipices along the shore exhibit a 
great variety of veins and fissures which cut across the strata, and 
greatly derange and alter them. But in many places on the coast 
and in the interior, the strata are distinctly and regularly arranged : 
and in such cases the inclination and dip are not many degrees 
from perpendicular. The most striking and marked exception is 
at Strathy, in the free and limestone quarries, where the strata are 
horizontal. 

The soil along the coast, especially near the bays, is light and 
sandy ; on the banks of the Naver and Strathy it is composed of 
:sand, gravel, and moss ; and in the interior, at the base of the 



70 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

hills) and near the different lochs, except Loch Naver, the soil is 
a deep moss. 

Zoology. — It is reported traditionally, that bears and wolves at 
one period existed in this parish. But this must have been when 
those extensive forests of fir grew in this country, the remains of 
which are still found deeply imbedded in moss, and are raised by 
the parishioners for roofing their houses, and other domestic pur- 
poses. The only species of animals which existed in comparatively 
modern times in the parish, but which have now disappeared, are 
goats. About forty years ago, they were numerous, and serviceable 
to the inhabitants ; but, by the introduction of the sheep-farming 
system, they have been entirely exterminated. 

The sheep-farmers rear the Cheviot or white-faced kind of 
sheep. The letters have a breed of small Highland cattle ; a few 
ponies of a similar description ; and sheep of the black-faced kind. 

On Bein Chlibrig, and the adjacent higher hills, there are con- 
siderable flocks of red deer. Hares and rabbits are found in the 
parish. Ptarmigan, black-cock, grouse, partridge, plover, and snipe, 
are numerous in the hills, moors, and inland glens. A great num- 
ber of aquatic fowl frequent the sea-coast and fresh-water lakes ; 
and the woods of Strathnaver are throngly tenanted by various 
classes of birds. The cuckoo, lapwing, and swallow pay their an- 
nual visits ; and, so far as they escape the vigilance of game- 
keepers and vermin-destroyers — foxes, otters, wild cats, eagles, 
hawks, ravens, and carrion-crows, are to be found. 

In the larger rivers and lakes, there is abundance of salmon ; and 
in the lesser lochs and streams, trout are found in considerable 
quantities. There is a rich supply of cod, ling, haddock, and her- 
ring, in their season, on the sea-coast. Turbot and mackerel have 
been taken occasionally, and lobster is caught for the London market. 

Botany — The herbage of this parish is of a mixed character, 
varying according to the elevation of its mountains, hills, valleys, 
and shore ground : and, on the ^hole, the parish affords an inte- 
resting field for the botanist. If there be few rare plants, there is a 
rich profusion of those already well known in this country. The 
mountains, hills, and moors are generally covered with the com- 
mon red heather, deer-hair, and a long tough grass, called Flying 
Bent. In the softer marshes, there are extensive plots of cotton- 
grass. With a trifling exception, all the trees in the parish are in- 
digenous. Of these, there is a considerable variety,— such as the 
hazel or nut-tree, alder, roan-tree or mountain-ash, willows, and 



FARR. 71 

bircL The alder tree grows to a considerable size on the banks 
of the Naver and Loch Coir^na-feam; but the birch is the most 
abundant, and, on the banks of Loch Naver, the most flourishing 
wood in the parish. 

11. — Civil History. 

The only printed accounts of the ancient state of the parish, so 
Ceu* as known to the writer of this article, are to be found in Sir 
Robert Gordon's History of the Earldom of Sutherland, and in 
Mr Robert Macka/s History of the House and Clan of Mackay, 
published in 1829. Any manuscript documents tending to throw 
light on the ancient state of the parish, which might have been in 
the possession of heritors, or wadsetters, formerly occupying lands 
within its bounds, are supposed to be now in the archives of the 
Duke of Sutherland, the proprietor of the whole parish. The 
most accurate geographical description of the boundaries and lo- 
calities of the parish is to be found in a map of the county, lately 
published by Mr Burnet, from a particular survey taken by order 
of the late Duke of Sutherland. 

Parochial Registers. — The only parochial registers extant are a 
book in which the minutes of the kirk-session are kept ; and ano- 
ther, in which births and marriages are recorded. The earliest 
entry in the first is in the year 1754; and in the second, in the 
year 1800. 

Antiquities. — The antiquities of the parish consist of the re- 
mains of several circular towers or dunns, built of large undrest 
stones without mortar ; a number of barrows or tumuli ; a few erect 
stones in the form of obelisks ; and the ruins of a castle built with 
mortar. The remains of the circular towers are in Strathnaver. The 
principal field of tumuli is about half a mile east from the parish 
church, close by the public road to Thurso. The finest erect stone 
is in the churchyard of Farr ; and the ruin of the castle is on a small 
peninsula about a mile and a half north of the parish church. The 
traditions connected with the more ancient relics are imperfect. It 
is reported, that the circular towers were built and occupied by an 
ancient race called, in Gaelic, Cruinnich^ from either of two Gaelic 
words, cruinn, round or circular; or cruinnachadh, a gathering. 
The tumuli indicate fields of battle, on which foreigners, especially 
Danes, and the native inhabitants, had bloody conflicts ; and the 
erect stones are said to point out the places where chieftains have 
been interred. This is very probable, from the circumstance of 
these stones being seen not far from the fields of tumuli ; as is the 



72 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

case at Dalharrold in Strathnaver, and in the church-yard of Farr. 
The stone in the latter place has been evidently brought there 
either from a foreign country, or from some other part of this king- 
dom. It is very hard, but diflfers entirely in its appearance and 
quality from any of the rocks in this neighbourhood. It is about 
twelve feet long, more than five feet being above ground, and as 
many under it. There is a regular figure carved on the west 
front of it, evidently hieroglyphic. — The ancient castle is sup- 
posed to have been the residence of the Mackays of Farr pre- 
vious to their being created barons, and obtaining the title of Lord 
Reay. It is not known by whom it was built. * 

III. — Population. 
From the remains of antiquity mentioned under the former head, 
it is evident there must have been a considerable population, either 
occasionally resorting to this parish, or permanently residing with- 
in it, at a very remote period of the history of Scotland. About 
400 years ago, the Mackays began to make themselves conspicu- 

* Connected with the antiquities of the parish, the writer may mention a few par- 
ticulars regarding a loch in Strathnaver, about six miles from the church,— to which 
superstition has ascribed wonderful healing virtues. The time at which this loeh 
came to be in repute with the sick cannot now be ascertained. It must, however, 
have been at a period of the history of this country when superstition had a firm hold 
of the minds of all classes of the community. The tradition as to the origin of its 
healing virtues is briefly as follows : A woman, cither from Ross-shire or Inver- 
ness-shire, came to the heights of Strathnavcr, ])retending to cure diseases by means 
of water into which she had previously thrown some pebbles, which she carried about 
with her. In her progress down the strath, towards the coast, a man in whose house 
she lodged wished to possess himself of the pebbles : but discovering his design, she es- 
caped, and he pursued. Finding, at the loch referred to, that she could not escape her 
pursuer any longer, she threw the pebbles into the loch, exclaiming in Gaelic, mo-nar, 
that is sliame, or my shame. From this exclamation the loch received the name 
which it still retains, " Loch-rno-nar,*' and the pebbles are supposed to have impart- 
ed to it its healing efficacy. There are only four days in the year, on which its 
supposed cures can be effected, llicse are the first Monday, old style, of February, 
May, August, and November. During February and November, no one visits it ; 
but in May and August, numbers from Sutherland, Caithness, Ross-shire, and even 
from Inverness-shire and Orkney, come to this far-famed loch. The ceremonies 
through which the patients have to go are the following : — lliey must all be at the loch 
side about twelve o'clock at night. As early on Monday as one or two o*clock in the 
morning, the patient is to plunge, or to be plunged, three times into the loch ; is to 
drink of its waters ; to throw a piece of coin into it as a kind of tribute ; and must be 
away from its banks, so as to be fairly out of sight of its water before the sun rises- 
else no cure is supposed to be effected. Whatever credit might I>e given to such ri- 
diculous ceremonies as tending in any respect to the restoration of health, while ig- 
norance and superstition reigned universally in this country, it certainly must appear 
extraordinary to intelligent persons, that any class of the community should now have 
recourse to and faith in such practices ; but so it is, that many come from the shires 
already mentioned, and say they arc benefited by these practices. It is, however, to 
be observed, that those who generally frequent this loch, and who have found their 
health improved, on returning home, are persons afflicted with nervous complaints and 
disordered imaginations, to whose health a journey of forty or sixty miles, a plunge 
into the loch, and the healthful air of our hills and glens may contribute all the im- 
provement with which they are generally so much pleased. 

3 



FARB. 73 

ous in this <listrict as a clan. Fair and Strathnaver appear to 
have been the principal residence of the Mackays during the 
fifteenth, sixteenth, and part of the seven teeth centuries, and 
that clan is still the most numerous in the parish. After the 
Earls of Sutherland formed a marriage alliance with the Gordons, 
some of that clan came to reside in Strathnaver, — so that at one 
period, perhaps a hundred years ago, there were few in the parish 
but Mackays and Gordons. They are still the most numerous 
names. 

In ancient times, the inhabitants were no doubt in a very barba- 
rous state, living mostly by plunder, and robbed of their property 
in return. During the universal reign of Popery in Scotland, that 
system of belief found its way to this parish, and was most probably 
professed by all the inhabitants. The principles of the Reforma- 
tion were, at an early period after their introduction into Scotland, 
embraced by the Earls of Sutherland, and the first Lord Reay, 
and disseminated among the people of this parish. In consequence 
of this happy change in religious principles and views, civilization 
and good order advanced, and the parishioners gradually became 
a religious and moral population. 

The census of 1831, compared with the return in 1790, shows 
a decrease of 400 in the population. This was owing to the in- 
troduction of the sheep-farming system. By its adoption, the 
farmers and tenants who occupied the straths and glens in the 
interior were, in 1818 and 1819, all removed from these posses- 
sions. Allotments of land were marked out on the sea-coast for 
such as were thus removed. In these the greater number of the 
removing tenants settled ; but several families quitted the parish 
altogether, and thus diminished the population. 

The tenants, or lotters, on the sea-coast, live on their respective 
farms or townships. In these townships, there are from eight to for- 
ty-five hou5,es, according to the quantity of land ; and the houses 
stand at a considerable distance from each other, not in the man- 
ner of €1 regularly formed village. 

The number of families in the parish is - - - 418 

of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 314 

chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicrafl, 1 1 

The average number of births for the last seven years, - - 55 

marriages, - - - - - 17 
No register of deaths is kept. 

Average number of persons under fifteen years, about - - 740 

from fifteen to thirty, - - - 500 

As there was no register of births and baptisms kept previous to 



74 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

the year 1800, it is impossible to classify the ages of persons above 
thirty years. It is certain, however, there are a number of healthy, 
active people in the parish from fifty to sixty, many from sixty 
to eighty ; and a few vigorous and stout from eighty to ninety. 

The average number of children in young famiUes, 5 ; the num- 
ber of insane in the parish, 1 ; fatuous, a female, 1 ; blind, a male 
and a female, 2 ; deaf, a male, 1 ; dumb, a male, 1. 

Langtuigei Character^ Sfc. of the People. — The Gaelic language 
is spoken in common conversation, and it is in that language that 
the people receive religious instruction with most advantage. Their 
language has been rather improved of late by means of Gaelic 
schools. The English, however, is gaining ground considerably, 
especially among the younger part of the population. The 
people are more cleanly in their habits than they were forty 
years ago. They dress neatly on public occasions, and in the 
cloths and cottons of south country manufacture, make a more 
showy appearance than their ancestors in the more homely but 
more substantial garbs wrought at home. Their ordinary food- 
consists of the produce of their lots, viz. oat and barley meal, milk, 
potatoes, and cabbages, — with fish, especially herring. Very little 
butcher meat is used by the natives ; but a considerable quantity 
of tea and sugar is consumed in the parish. 

The people are social among themselves; kind and hospitable to 
strangers, according to their circumstances ; acute and intelligent, 
according to their advantages ; moral in their general habits ; re- 
gular in attending on religious ordinances ; and many among them 
decidedly pious. Smuggling is entirely abandoned by them, and 
poaching is almost unknown. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — Except about 600 acres on 

the sea coast, which are kept in cultivation by the letters, the whole 
of the land of this parish, formerly in tillage, is, with the adjacent 
mountains, hills, and glens, laid out in extensive sheep walks. 
From the great extent of the parish, and the nature of its sur- 
face, it is impossible to give its measurement in acres with any de- 
gree of accuracy. The difierent plots of trees in the parish cover 
about 800 acres ; and of late years, considerable attention has been 
given to the woods in Strathnaver, by pruning and thinning. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of the land occupied by the 
letters is 16s. per acre, including their privilege of hill-common 



FARR. 75 

and peat-moss. The rent ptid bj tbe sheep-farmers is mode- 
rate. 

Mt^ ^ Waga, — ^The allowance to day labourers is from Is. 6d. 
to Is. 9d. per day often hours; to masons 15s.; to carpenters from 
9s. to 12s. per week. The lotters use the Highland delving spade 
in labouring their land. To this they are forced, partly by being 
unable to rear horses for the plough, and partly by the very un- 
even surface of their lots. The greater part of the land in their 
possession is susceptible of considerable improvement by trench- 
ing, draining, removing heaps of stones, inclosing their lots, and 
turning them with the plough. 

Hushandry. — The sheep farms are in the possession of gentle- 
men, who are sufficiently attentive to every kind of improvement of 
which pastoral districts are susceptible, — by draining, embanking, 
and burning heath. The leases of the sheep farmers are given 
for nineteen years : but the lotters on the coast are tenants at will, 
which is evidently a bar to the improvement of their lots. 

Fishings. — The principal fishings are those of salmon and her^ 
ring. Of late years, the rivers have been fished by the heritor, and 
the salmon sold at a certain rate per pound raw, to a Company who 
have a curing establishment in the parish. In consequence of 
this plan, the present rent of the salmon fishings of Naver, Borgie, 
and Strathy cannot be ascertained. The fishings are kept up by 
proper guards in close time on the rivers to prevent poaching; and 
by having a sufficient supply of fishing and curing materials during 
the fishing season. 

Produce. — As very little of the raw produce is brought to mar- 
ket within the parish, it is not easy to state its amount. The fol- 
lowing account is submitted, however, — giving an average of the 
last three years. 

Annual produce of the land occupied by the lotters, including oats, bear, and pota- 
toes, being the only crops they raise, - - - L. 2000 
Annual produce of sheep-farms in wool, . - - 8700 
Annual produce of shcep^fSEunns in wedders and ewes, sold to south 
country dealers, ------ 

salmon-fishings, .... 

herring-fishing, - - - . 

meadow- hay, . . . - 

Miflcellaneous, including dairy produce, black- cattle sold by the lot- 
ters, &c &c. -.---- 

ToUl annual produce, L. 14,390 

The fishermen on the coast have from fifteen to twenty boats 

* About 22,000 Gieviot sheep are annually graied in this parish, induing old and 
young stock. 



5800 

. 800 

1300 

310 














420 









76 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

of fifteen and twenty tons burden. During the herriug-fisliing 

season, ships from the south ports of Scotland, from England and 

Ireland, come to the coast to land cargoes of salt and barrels, and 

to carry the cured fish to market. There are no ships belonging 

to the parish. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

• Means of Communication^ Sfc. — The nearest market-town is 
Thurso, thirty-two miles from this place. There is a post-of- 
fice here connected with that of Thurso ; and a mail diligence, 
drawn by two horses, and carrying four passengers, which runs 
three days in the week from Thurso to Tongue, and alternately 
back; and there is a weekly carrier from Tongue to Thurso. 
There are no turnpike roads in the parish; but a considerable 
extent of the Parliamentary road from Bonar Bridge to Tongue 
passes through the heights, and about sixteen miles of the ge- 
neral line from Tongue to Thurso run near the sea-coast. On 
the roads in this parish there are two bridges of three arches each, 
twelve of one arch, and a chain-boat on the river Naver. There 
are no regular harbours. The safest landing-places for boats are 
Kirtomy and Armidale. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is conveniently situat- 
ed for the population who are now attached to it, since the erec- 
tion of the Government church. It stands close to the sea-coast, 
and is about thirty miles from some parts of the interior. But 
these remote parts are occupied only by a few shepherds in the 
employment of the sheep-farmers. The parish-church was built 
in 1774, is a commodious and substantial building, and is kept in 
good repair. It is seated for about 750. The communion table 
is, on ordinary Sabbaths, free to the poor, and accommodates 
about 64. 

There is a Government church and manse at Strathy, ten miles 
east from the parish church. This church was built in 1826, and 
its present minister was appointed to it in 1828. It accommodates 
about 350 sitters. Thus, in a parish, the population of which is 
about 2100, we have church accommodation for 1160 persons. 

The manse was built in 1818, is a commodious house, and kept 
in sufficient repair. There are about six acres of arable land, some 
meadow-pasture, and a considerable extent of hill ground, with a 
right to peats, — legally designed as a glebe. The value of these 
may be estimated at L. 25 per annum. The stipend is L. 166, 
14s. Sterling, including L. 8, 6s. 8d. Sterling for conmiunion ele- 



FARR. 77 

ments. The teinds are exhausted. There is a catechist appointed 
by the kirk-session, and paid by tbe people. 

There is no Dissenting chapel in the parish ; and, with the ex- 
ception of one shepherd from the borders, who is of the Anti- 
burgher persuasion, and a shepherd's wife from Lochaber, who is 
a Roman Catholic, there is not a Dissenter of any description in 
the parish. Divine service is generally well attended, on ordinary 
and communion Sabbaths, in the parish and Government church ; 
and the people, old and young, are punctual in attending family 
and village examinations, are in general well acquainted with the 
Shorter Catechism of our church, and have regularly the worship 
of God in their families. The average number of communicants 
may be stated at 130. 

There is no society for religious purposes established in the pa- 
rish ; but, for the last nineteen years, collections have been made, 
almost annually in our congregations, for missionary and educa- 
tional objects in Scotland, and the average amount of these is about 
L 5, 10s. Sterling. 

Education. — There are at present four schools in the parish, viz. 
the parochial school; one supported by the Committee of the Ge- 
neral Assembly ; one by the Glasgow Auxiliary Gaelic School Sor 
ciety ; and one on the Second Patent of the Society for Propagat- 
ing Christian Knowledge in the Highland and islands of Scotland. 
The parothial schoolmaster is qualified to teach Latin, Greek, 
mathematics, and the ordinary branches of English literature ; and 
the teacher of the General Assembly's Committee is required to 
teach Latin, mathematics, English, and Gaelic. The branches 
generally taught, are English reading and grammar, writing and 
. arithmetic, and Gaelic reading. 

The parochial teacher has the maximum salary ; L. 3 Sterling, 
in lieu of a garden ; L. 1 13s. 4d. of session-clerk dues ; 4s. for 
proclaiming banns, and registering each marriage ; 6d. for record- 
ing each baptism ; and a house of three apartments. His rate of 
school-fees is, for beginners, 6s. per annum ; for reading and 
writing, 8s. ; for arithmetic, 12s.; and for higher branches* 20s. per 
annum. The teacher employed by the Committee of the Gene- 
ral Assembly has a salary of L. 25 ; three apartments ; a croft 
of land, and a garden from the heritor ; and fuel provided by the 
inhabitants of the district. He is allowed to exact fees, according 
to the rate demanded in the parochial school ; only in cases of in- 
digence certified by the minister and elders, a certain modification. 



78 SUTHBRLANDSHIRB. 

or an ezemptioD altogether, is permitted. The teacher employ- 
ed by the Glasgow Society has L. 12 of a salary, and two apart- 
ments. He is furnished with fuel by the inhabitants, and is allow- 
ed to exact fees on the same principle with the teacher under the 
General Assembly's Committee. The teacher on the scheme 
of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge has L. 4 of 
salary, a house and croft of land, with fees. 

Last winter, about 240 individuals, from the age of five years to 
twenty, attended the different schools in the parish. But owing to the 
general poverty of the parishioners, and to the circumstance, that they 
are under the necessity of having their children, when they arrive at 
the age of ten or twelve years, emploiyed, especially in the summer 
and han*o$t months either in working about their own dwellings, 
or earning something for their roipport, in the service of others, — 
education is very imperfectly acquired by a majority of the young. 
Of thiv^ hom>en^r, from ten to thirt}* years of age, the greater 
numl^or do n^id either English or Gaelic ; many read both, and 
)i ^^^l?u^)orahlo number write, and can keep accounts. Even at 
iW oldo:i(l ago At which the people arrive, a considerable num- 
Wr ttn> found who read the Scriptures fluently, and with benefit. 
^t it is among the aged that the greater number are met with 
who can neither read nor write. In 1832, it was computed that 
870 persons of all ages above six were unable to read ; and 300 
betwixt six and twenty. 

The people value the benefits of education, and would most 
willingly give their children greater advantages, did their circum- 
stances allow it. A permanent school at Armidale, with those 
already established, would supply the inhabitants of the sea-coast 
with the means of education. It is impossible to place a school in . 
the interior, so as to accommodate its scattered and widely sepa- 
rated inhabitants, consisting of a few families of shepherds. 

Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established this year for 
the benefitof the whole county;— of which the Duke of Sutherland 
is patron and treasurer ; James Loch, Esq. M. P. president ; and 
the three resident factors of the Duke of Sutherland in this shire, 
vice-presidents. There are trustees appointed in this parish, who 
meet every fortnight to receive deposits and give out money as oc- 
casion requires. The head bank is at Golspie, near Dunrobin, 
the seat of the Duke of Sutherland. All deposits are sent from 
this parish to it; for which the contributors have the receipt of the 
patron and treasurer, and are allowed four per cent, interest on sums 



FARR. 7^ 

not exceeding L. 20. Little can be said yet of the advantages of 
this bank, as the first deposit was made in this parish only on the 
15th day of February last ; but considerable benefit b anticipated 
from it today-labourers, fishermen, and iarm-servants, in the course 
of a few years. The Duke of Sutherland is deeply interested in 
its prosperity. 

Poor and Parochial -FttnA.— The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is 76; and the average sum allowed them 
is from Ids. to ds. per annum, according to their circumstances, 
as certified by the elders of their respective districts. The an- 
nual average amount of contributions for their support, during the 
last five years, has been about L. 27 Sterling, arising from church 
collections, amounting to L. 20 per annum, and from donations by 
heritors, amounting to L. 8 on an average of the last five years. 
No other method of procuring funds for the poor has been resorted 
to, and in general they seem content with the existing system. The 
Marchioness of Stafford, now Duchess Countess of Sutherland, for 
more than twenty years gave, and continues to give, an annual do- 
nation of L. 6 to the poor of this parish. Occasional donations 
have been given, besides, by members of the Noble family when 
visiting this parish, and when important changes by marriages and 
births took place among them ; and by such means, a small fund 
is at interest for the benefit of the poor. 

Market — There is a market held at Bettyhill, near this place, 
on the first Wednesday of November, (N. S.) for general traffic. 

hms. — There are three licensed inns, so situated as to be con- 
venient to the parishioners and the public at large. Tippling- 
houses are entirely suppressed, and their extinction has a good ef- 
fect on the morals of the people in general. 

' Miscellaneous Observations. 
When the former Account was written, a considerable number of 

tacksmen, natives of the parish, occupied extensive farms in diffe- 
rent parts of it; and with them, a dense population of subtenants 
resided in the interior straths and glens. Now, however, all the 
lands, both hill and dale, which they possessed, are held in lease 
by a few sheep-farmers, all non-resident gentlemen, — some of them 
living in Caithness, some on the south coast of this county, and 
some in England ; and the straths, in which hundreds of families 
lived comfortably, are now tenanted by about twenty-four families 
of herds. In place of the scores of Highland cattle, horses, sheep, 
and goats, which formerly were brought to market, or used for do- 



80 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 



mcstic purposes, now thousands of fleeces of Cheviot wool, wedders, 
and ewes, are annually exported. The people who had been re- 
moved from the interior in 1818 and 1819, when these great changes 
took place, are thickly settled along the sea-coast of the parish, 
— in some instances about thirty letters occupying the land for- 
merly in the possession of twelve; and some of them placed on 
ground which had been formerly uncultivated. 

This alteration in the locality of the parishioners has been fol- 
lowed by a corresponding change in the general system of their 
occupation. Instead of tending flocks, and following other avoca- 
tions connected with the habits of an inland population, they are 
now partly employed in cultivating their small pendicles of land ; 
but more vigorously engaged, especially the young, in preparing 
the necessary fishing implements, and prosecuting the fishing in 
its season. The females, in place of manufacturing tartans, and 
other woollen cloths, for their husbands, brothers, and other rela- 
tives, now use the spinning wheel in preparing hemp for herring - 
nets ; and the labour of the country weaver is considerably set 
aside by the knitting of the nets. The Garb of Auld Gaul is en- 
tirely superseded by thefisheniian's habilments; and our population, 
who in early life traversed the hills, moors, and crags of the inte- 
rior, now cautiously steer their boats on the waves of the Northern 
Ocean, and actively carry on the various labours connected with 
the fish-curing, stations. 

The changes referred to in the locality and in the employments 
of the inhabitants have had their influence on the state of society in 
the parish. Although there are greater facilities of communication 
than formerly with different parts of the kingdom, the manners of 
the resident population are not thereby improved. It is a well 
authenticated fact in this country, that the herring, fishing is not 
conducive to the improvement of the morals of those engaged in 
it. The leaseholders of our large sheep-farms are, as was already 
mentioned, all non-resident gentlemen. But the former tacksmen 
resided on their own farms, most of them having respectable and 
numerous families. By their education and status in society, as 
justices of peace, and officers in the army, their example, in their 
general intercourse with the people, had an influence in giving a 
respectable tone to society, which is now almost gone. There is 
not now a resident justice of the peace in the parish, whereas there 
was formerly a most respectable bench of such civil magistrates; and 
the permanent population being composed of letters, day-labourers. 



PARR. 81 

fishermen, and herds, the people, in general, are much more pie- 
bian, than when the former Account was written. On the other 
hand, the improvements by roads, bridges, more commodious inns, 
neater cottages, and more regular and sure means* of communica- 
tion, form a most interesting and pleasant variety since the' date of 
that Account An increase in the number of those who read the 
Scriptures in English and Gaelic, and a more extensive circula- 
tion of the sacred volume among the families of the parishioners, 
are also among the important changes which have since taken place. 
The openness of the winters, the absence of those heavy and long- 
continued storms of snow, which in former times were so destruc- 
tive to every description of stock, and the general mildness and 
fruitfiilness of the seasons, ought not to be omitted under this 
head. Since the harvest of 1816, there has not been an extensive 
failure in the ordinary crop of the parish. 

There is much room for improvement on the sea-coast, by a 
better system of husbandry among the letters, by rendering the 
landing-places for boats more commodious and secure, and by an 
increase of branch roads to some of the townships. It is much 
to be regretted that the inhabitants have not more permanent 
and regular employment during the winter and spring months; for 
by the want of such employment, a great portion of their time 
is wasted in idleness and dissipation ; whereas, they would most 
willingly avail themselves of any additional opportunities of labour. 

Auffust 1834. 



SUTHERLAND. 



PARISH OF DURNESS. 

PRESBYTERY OF TONGUE, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. WILLIAM HNDLATER, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The name Durness, or, as it is pronounced by the na- 
tives, Duirinish, is evidently of Graelic origin. * By some it has 
been derived from Dorratn, t. e. storms or tempest, and nis or ness 
a promontory. Others derive the word from Dvbh^ black ; raon^ 
field ; and ness or hw, a promontory, — Dybh-^hir-nis. But as the 
word ntss or nis is seldom, if ever, used to signify a point or pro- 
montory in Gaelic, it may with greater probability be derived from 
Dnrin^ the principal township in the parish, and innisj a green 
l^tch or grazing, — literally an oasis in a desert Hence the word 
Shintnessy a green knoll near the Deer Forest in this parish, is de- 
ri>t>d from sithin^ venison, and innisj a grazing. 

Formerly the parish of Durness comprehended the whole of the 
district known by Lord Heaths Country^ or, as it is called in Gaelic, 
Duthaich Mhic Aoij i. e. The Land of the Mackays^ extending 
from the river of Borgie near Strathnaver, to the Kyle of Assynt, 
and comprehending a space of about 800 square miles ! Since 
1724, it has been divided into three parishes, viz. Edderachillis, 
Durness, and Tongue : with the parish of Farr, it was disjoined 
from the presbytery of Caithness, and by Act of Assembly at- 
tached to the presbytery of Tongue. 

Boundaries. — It is bounded on the N. by the Northern Ocean; 
on the E. by the parish of Tongue ; on the S. and S. W. by Ed- 
derachillis; and on the W. by the Atlantic Ocean. Its greatest 
length from east to west is twenty-five miles, and its average 
breadth about twelve miles, — there being thus, including friths and 
lakes, about 300 square miles. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of this parish 

* Notwithstanding the frequent incursions of the Danes and other northern tribes, 
it is remarkable that they never succeeded in establishing themselves as separate co- 
lonies, or in giving names to the different places in the country, which, as every Gaelic 
scholar knows, are all, with hardly an exception, of Gaelic origin. 



DURNESS. 83 

is mountainous; and its surface is naturally divided into three parts, 
viz. Isty the Parf district, or that which Ues betwixt the Atlantic and 
the Kyle of Durness, ^d, Durness, properly so called, including 
all between the Kyle of Durness and Loch Eriboll. Sd, West- 
moin, which extends from Loch Eriboll to the middle of the mo- 
rass below Loch Hope, commonly called the Moin. 

Mountain Ranges, — In the Parf division, comprehending a sur- 
face of from 60 to 80 square miles, there are several mountain- 
ranges from 1500 to near 2500 feet in height, from Screbhisbheinn 
on the north, to Fairemheall on the south. Fairbheinn has a 
conical shape, and appears isolated from these and the other ranges 
of Creigriabhach and Bendearg, which have a S. W. direction, 
gradually diminishing to the Western Ocean. 

In the second division, the mountains are, Ceannabinn, Meall- 
meadhonoch, Ben Spionnadh, * and Cranstackie, which take a 
S. W. direction, and the mountains of Foinnebheinn and Meallhorn, 
which take a S. E. direction. This division contains an area of 
about 80 square miles. 

The third, or Westmoin division, having a surface of about 100 
square miles, contains several ranges of high and precipitous hills 
on the east side of Loch Eriboll, and clustered in various shapes 
and directions betwixt Strathmore and Strathbeg. In this division 
also is the lofty Ben Hope, 3150 feet above the level of the sea; 
it extends in a S. W. and S. direction along the narrow vale of 
Strathmore. The view of Ben Hope from the west has been al- 
ways admired by travellers, as perhaps the finest of its kind in the 
kingdom. The best view is at the inn of Cassildubh, near the 
upper end of Loch Hope. As there is no table-land, it rises with- 
in a few feet from the level of the sea, in abrupt and towering mag- 
nificence. The mind is filled with awe at the grandeur and sub- 
limity of the scene, and the eye is overcome with beholding the 
mountain as a whole, — except when occasionally relieved by viewing 
the trees of varied hue that diversify the scene, and adorn its base 
and its dark-blue terraces. Here is often seen the eagle soaring 
aloft ; and amidst its deep ravines, the red-deer and roe, pasturing 
in security, as if defying the stratagems of the hunter. Nor is the 
view from its summit less interesting. On a clear day, may be seen 
Lewis to the west, and the Orkney Islands to the north-east, as 
well as the principal mountains of Sutherland and Caithness, while 

* 2566 feet above the level of the sea by Mr Burnet's measurement. 



/ 



84 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

the numerous lakes through the country appear like specks, and 
its friths (when the view is not obstructed by adjacent hills) like 
rivers. 

Valleys. — In the Parf district, though there are several deep 
ravines, there are no valleys of any note. It consists chiefly of 
marshy loans and deep morasses several miles in extent, and inter- 
sected by the mountain-streams. A few green and fertile spots 
may be seen on its eastern shores. With the exception of the 
light-keepers at Cape Wrath, there are only four families, shep- 
herds, who reside in this extensive district. In the second district. 
Strath Dinard runs up the Kyle of Durness, and by the water of 
Dinard, to the south base of Fairemheall, and then takes a south- 
east direction along the side of Foinnebhinn, extending a distance of 
about fourteen miles. At the upper end of Loch Eriboll is Strath- 
beg, — a narrow but fertile vale of about two miles in length, and 
scarcely half a mile in breadth. The only other valley deserving 
notice is Strathmore, commencing at the north base of Ben Hope, 
and extending about six miles along the river. It is now inhabit- 
ed by one family ; whereas, formerly, it was inhabited by upwards of 
twenty, by no means affluent, but virtuous and contented. To the 
south, betwixt the mountains of Strathmore and Strathbeg, are 
GlengoUie and Corinessie, both celebrated by the muse of Rob 
Donn, as tlfe favourite haunts of the deer and the hunter. These 
contain almost the only remains of birch trees in the parish, which 
at one time diversified and beautified its straths and glens. It may 
be remarked, that, with the exception of those last mentioned, the 
straths are but a very few feet elevated above the level of the sea, 
and give an Alpine grandeur to the contiguous mountains. 

Caves. — Smo, ^c. — In a country so extensive and mountainous, 
and abounding in limestone, we may naturally expect to find caves, 
deep ravines, and fissures. Of these, Smo * is the most remark- 
able. It is about two miles east of the church, and may be ap- 
proached either by sea or by a pathway from the road. Directly 
above the cave, a beautiful waterfall arrests the eye. Descending 
from the road, about 100 yards to the shore, and crossing the 
water, after walking twehty yards, the traveller is suddenly ar- 
rested by the grandeur and magnificence of the cave, — whether 
he views the singular and massive construction of its Gothic- 
like and transverse arches, or its immense height and width; 

• In " DanielVK Coast Views," a front view of this cave may be seen. 



DURNESS. 85 

for, in some places, it is about 100 feet wide, and as many in 
height. Here, also, the noise of the waterfall steals on the ear ; 
and when the voice is raised, an echo is distinctly heard. Near 
the entrance, its stratified rocks have several tufts of ivy mantling 
over them, which add to the interest of the scene. The dark 
perforation on the right hand of the arch 'has of late years been 
explored ; it was believed by several of the natives, upon tradi- 
tionary information, to be the abode of fairies^ and the spirits of 
the dark ! ♦ 

There are also several extensive caves at Tresgill, at the east side of 
the entrance of Loch Eriboll. Sir Walter Scott visited these in 
1814, and they excited his admiration equally with that of Smo. 
They are approached only by sea. The grandest of these has a wa- 
terfall over its mouth. The deep and unknown extent of the fissure of 
Polaghloup, half a mile weet of the church, has been frequently ad- 
mired. The immense stocks or detached Gothic-like pillars at Ker- 
wic bay near Cape Wr^th, and at the Whiten Head, have been 
also much admired. Several other caves, fissures, and cascades, 
in the interior of the country, if found in parishes of less extent, 
would be deemed deserving of more detailed description. 

Coast, — That part of the coast which is bounded by the Atlan- 
tic and the Northern Ocean is bold and lofty. On both sides of 
Cape Wrath, of the Farout Head, and Whiten Head, the rocks are 
magnificent^ towering in most places from 200 to 700 feet of per- 
pendicular height. At Kervaic bay, the shore is low and sandy. 
At the bay of Balnakiel, there are several bills of sand, which fre- 
quently shift their places and forms, though generally covered with 
bent. Along the friths of Keoldale and Eriboll, the shores are 
generally precipitous and rugged, with intervening bays of sand or 
shingle. 

Islands. — These are, I. Garre&n, within 4 miles of Cape Wrath 
to the east, and 1 mile from the shore ; it is about 60 feet high, 
100 yards long, and about the same breadth ; here thousands of 

* The following is a short account of this cavern, as given by a young gentleman, 
one of a party who entered it in August 1833. " After providing ourselves with a 
small boat and lights, and raising them over the arch, we found ourselves in a lake 
about thirty yards long, and nearly as broad ; we now lighted our candles, and ap- 
proached an arch in the rock, under which we could just pass by lying flat on the 
boat. This opened to another lake of equal length, but gradually dimuiishing in 
breadth. Having at the upper end left the boat, we walked over the rock about 
thirty paces in the same direction. The height of the roof is various, from twenty 
to sixty feet, and its sides and bases are almost covered with stalactites and stalag- 
mites, formed from the dropping roof of the cave, which is entirely composed of lime- 
stone. The temperature of a well at the upper end we found to be 48° Fahr." 



86 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

different species of sea-fowl are reared. 2. Hoan^ 1 mile long, and \ 
mile broad; it lies near the entrance of Loch EriboU; is green and 
fertile, and supports four families. 3. Choaric, in Loch EriboU, about 
the same dimensions, and equally fertile. In both of the two latter 
islands, there are places of sepulture, which have been discontinued 
as such for upwards of a century. Tradition reports, that they 
were used for sepulture to prevent the depredation of wolves, which 
at one period infested the country. 

Meteorology. — Cape Wrath is the only place in the parish where 
observations have been recorded. ♦ After the autumnal equinox, 
and about two hours after sunset, the polar lights frequently ap- 
pear most splendid, and occasionally extend from the north or 
north-west like a belt over the whole horizon. On the 3d Sep- 
tember 1833, the horizon, from three to four p. m., presented a pe- 
culiar appearance, and that during sunshine, — as if tinged, though 
faintly, by the polar lights, rushing with great rapidity. . For some 
days after, the weather was dry and squally. When the Orkney 
Islands or the neighbouring mountains are clearly seen, either a 
storm, or the continuation of bad weather, is the certain conse- 
quence. When the sound of the breakers on the shore is heard 
distinctly, it indicates frost. The appearance of the swan is a 
precursor of snow. 

In a country so contiguous to the ocean, and so mountainous, it 
is to be expected that high winds and frequent showers should pre- 
vail ; but, from these very causes, snow does not last so long as in 
more southern latitudes. Though the climate, in general, be moist 
and variable, yet the atmosphere is purified by high and frequent 
winds ; and the inhabitants are in general healthy. Fevers, small- 
pox, &c. are seldom, if ever, spread by infection. In spring, how- 
ever, colds, inflammatory sore throats, and rheumatism, are not in- 
frequent. In summer and autumn, cases of dyspepsia and bowel- 
complaints among the lower orders are of common occurrence. 
These are supposed to arise from a sudden change of their diet, 
which in the summer consists of oatmeal, milk, &c. and after- 
wards, of potatoes. 

Hydrography. — The friths that intersect the parish are, 1^^, the 
Kyle of Durness^ which is about six miles long, and averages nearly 
one mile in breadth. Near its entrance on the west side of the 

* A monthly report is transmitted to the Board of the Lighthouse Commission- 
ers, of the ranges of the thermometer, barometer, and rain-gage. 



DURNESS. 87 

bay of Balnakiel, are bars and shallows, which frequently shift 
their position with north winds. This frith is little visited by ves- 
sels, either for shelter or commerce. At ebb, it appears a large 
field of sand, which is gradually accumulating from the debris of 
the Dinard and tributary streams. On its banks, may be frequently 
seen considerable numbers of seals (PhaccB vitulifUB^) and diffe- 
rent species of shell-fish. 2i2, Loch EriboUy which is about ten 
miles long, with a south-west direction, and varying from one to four 
miles in breadth. Its waters are of a depth varying' from fifteen to 
sixty fathoms; and no perceptible current is felt, while its saltness 
does not materially differ from that of the ocean. Camisendunbay, 
near the ferry, is one of the best anchorages in the kingdom, and is 
pretty often resorted to by vessels unable to double Cape Wrath, 
or attempt the Pentland Frith. The tides off Cape Wrath, Farout, 
and Whiten Head aiO0 very strong — running about ten miles an hour. 

Springs, — As might be anticipated in such a mountainous 
country, and where such quantities of rain fall, the springs are in- 
numerable. There are several chalybeates ; and those which give 
a reddish colouring to the gravelly banks are reckoned salubrious by 
the natives. 

Lakes are also abundant, varying from a few hundred yards to 
six miles in extent. Of these. Loch Hope is the largest, being six 
miles long, by one half mile broad. Its mean depth does not exceed six 
fathoms. Its upper end is gradually filling up by the alluvial deposits 
of Strathmore water ; and its banks occasionally diversified by a few 
tufts of birch. Loch Borley and Loch Craspul^ near the manse, 
are beautiful lakes ; both of which are supplied by subterraneous 
streams through the limestone rocks in the neighbourhood. The 
former is one mile long, and has a small green isle 200 yards long. 
It abounds in char^ which spawn in October, and are seldom or 
ever caught by the fly. Loch Craspul is half a mile long, and abounds 
with excellent trout, which do not spawn till January. There are se- 
veral other lakes around the above and in the interior, — all abound- 
ing in trout, which appear reddish, dark, or silvery, according to the 
clearness of the water. Among these, the largest are Dinardy the 
source of the river Kescaig^ and Ishour in the Parf or western 
division. Marl has been found at Loch Borley^ but has not been 
applied to any extent for the purpose of manure. 

Rivers* — The only rivers deserving notice are the Hope and the 
Dinard, The former is merely a continuation of the Strathmore 
Water, which has its source from GlengoUie and the contiguous 



88 8UTHERLANDSHIRE. 

mountains, and empties itself about three miles from the mouth of 
Loch EriboUy — running a distance of fifteen miles. The latter has 
its rise from Loch Dinard, and empties itself at the head of the Kyle 
of Durness, — running a distance of ten miles. Both these rivers are 
very rapid, especially when swelled by their tributary streams. In 
both, the cruives are shut in March ; but very few salmon are found 
till summer, owing, it is supposed, to the coldness of the snow 
water descending from the higher mountain streams. Salmon are, 
also in small quantities, found to ascend the Sandwood water from 
the Atlantic, Dal water from Balnakiel Bay, and Strathbeg water, 
at the head of Loch Eriboll. All these are tolerably good ang- 
ling rivers, especially for trout, during the months of May and 
June. During heavy rains, the mountain streams present to the 
eye some fine cascades, the most noted of which are at Altnacailish 
in Strathmore, and at Benspionnadh on the north-west side. 

Geology. — There are few parishes in Scotland that furnish such 
a rich field to the speculations of the geologist — both from its ex- 
tent and the variety of its formations. These have been examined 
by Professor Jameson, Professor Sedgwick, and Dr M'CuUoch. 
Following the geographical divisions of the parish we find the high 
and precipitous rocks on either side of Cape Wrath, chiefly sand- 
stone and gneiss, with numerous veins of granite and felspar. The 
central mountain of Fasbheinn is gneiss ; but all the other moun- 
tains are chiefly of the red sandstone formation, and puddingstone, 
—the strata of which are horizontal. At Handa Island, and Store 
in Assynt, the same formation of sandstone appears. 

In the second or Durness division, the mountains are all com- 
posed of quartz, gneiss, and mica-slate, with occasional veins of por- 
phyry and granite. The dip of the strata is chiefly north-east. 
The higher mountains present their steeper and bolder fronts to 
the west and north-west,— with the exception only of the Farout 
Head, composed of dark gray slate. The greater part of the 
low lands of Durness from the Kyle to Smo, consists of an im- 
mense triangular bed of primitive limestone, of about fifteen square 
miles, and of unknown depth. It is of difierent colours— gray, blue, 
and pale white. These often alternate with each other, and are 
of various depths, often horizontal, but generally inclining to the 
north and east The fissures almost always cut the strata at right 
angles, and frequently consist of thin veins of carbonate of lime, 
pure, white, and crystallized. This bed at its southern angle dis- 
appears under the Foinnebhinn and Meall Horn Mountains, and 



DUBNESS. 89 

is seen minutely in the adjoining parish of Edderachillis at Loch- 
more and Glencul, and to an extent of several miles in the parish 
of Assynt, where it appears under the same general character and 
of the same formation. 

In the third or Westmoin district, a section of this bed also ap- 
pears, to the extent of about five miles in length by half a mile in 
average breadth. It is separated from Durness by Loch Eriboll, 
the quartz mountain range of Ceannabinn, and Benspionadh. The 
mountains of Hope and Strathmore are quartz and gray slate, 
either horizontally stratified, or with a small inclination to the east 
and north. The limestone caves present fine specimens of stalac- 
tites and stalagmites, and some of the lakes in the limestone for- 
mation abound in marl. Immense circular blocks of granite are 
frequently resting upon the limestone rocks : * and pieces of por^ 
phyry have been discovered near Bispond, which are easily cut into 
seals. 

Soil. — Over the limestone, the soil is chiefly clay, of various 
depth, and yielding rich pasturage. The alluvial deposits carried 
down by the mountain streams make the straths equally fertile. 
But with these exceptions, the whole soil of the parish is a con- 
tinuous surface of peat moss, varying from a few inches to twelve 
feet in depth, — below which there are deep strata of clay or gravel. 

Zoology, — The high mountains in the interior, commonly called 
the " Forest" — (a leafless one !) abound in red-deer {Cervus ele- 
phas.) The roe {Cervus capreolus) is occasionally seen at Ben 
Hope. Foxes (Canis vulpes^) notwithstanding the high premiums 
given, are numerous and difficult to extirpate. Badgers {Ursus 
meles) are almost extinct Wild cats {Felis catusferus) are pret- 
ty numerous. Otters (Mustela Intra) are found in the rivers. 
Hares common (Lepus timidus^) and alpine {L. variabilis^) are 
seen, the latter more numerous ; also rabbits {L. cuniculus;) pole- 
cats, ferrets, and weasels (MustelcB^) Moles (Talpa Europea) are 
rare, and only found in one district of the parish, on the eastern 
bank of Loch Hope. Rats {M, raitus) are of late immigration. 

Birds. — Among the land fowls, the following are the principal : 
Hawks {Falco) of difierent kinds. Owls, both gray and brown, 
with ears resembling horns. The Royal (Julvus^) and fishing (Aa- 
licetuSf) eagle. A colony of rooks (C. frugilegiLs) may be seen in 
September for a few weeks, and almost all the small birds common 

* From one of these oo the glebe, the monument erected in the church -yard to 
the memory of Rob. Donn, was formed. 



90 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

to the latitude; sucb as the starling (Stumtis^) thrush {Turdus^) 
wagtail {MotcudUa alba,) lark (Alatidaarvensis,) green linnet (Loxia 
Moris,) swallow {Hirundo,) blackbird thrush, {T, merula,) cuckoo 
{Cuculus canorus,) kingsfisher {Alcedo ispida,) wild pigeon {Co- 
lumba JEnas,) black-cock {Tetrao tetrix,) ptarmigan (T. lagopiis,) 
moorfowl (Tl Scoticus,) partridge (T.perdix,) plover (CAarocfni^,) 

&C. 

Among the water-fowls are gulls (Larus ridihundus, and L, 
marinus ;) wild goose {Anser,) swan (A.cyffnus,) duck (A.boschas,) 
teal {A, crecca,) solan-goose (Pelecanus Bassanus,) puiBn (Aka 
arctica,) auk {A, tor da,) and great auk {A, impennis,) crane 
{Grus.) 

Fishes. — Skate {Raice,) piked dog-fish (S. acanthius,) eel {Mu- 
rena anguilla,) conger, or sea eel, (M. conger,) cod {G.morrhua,) 
haddock (G. JEgleJimis,) coal-fish (G. carbonaritis,) whiting (G. 
merlangus,) ling (G. molva,) mackarel (Scomber,) turbot (Pleuro- 
nectes hippoglossus,) sole (P.solea,) flounder (P.Jlesus et punctatus,) 
salmon (Salmo,) trout (S. trutta etfario,) char (S. alpinus.) 

The shell-fish are: — Oysters (O. edulis,) cockles (C edule,) 
mussels (M. edulis,) &c. ; univalves of different kinds, as well as 
lobsters and crabs, are very numerous. The sands of Balnakiel 
present beautiful specimens of conchology. 

Reptiles, Sfc. — Among the reptiles are : the viper {Coluber berus,) 
adder {Anguis eryx,) lizards (Lacerta,) frogs (Bona,) toads {Bujb.) 
Among the various species of insects and flies, the most peculiar 
and numerous are gnats, provincially called midges; these are 
so annoying during the months of August and September in calm 
warm and moist weather, that they interrupt all labour without 
doors. 

jBotowy.*— The vegetation of this parish is materially affected 
by its latitude, the vicinity of the sea, its position towards the wes- 
tern shore, its diversity of surface, and its soil. On the northern 
confines of Britain, the ordinary law by which the geographical 
distribution of plants in regard of latitude is regulated, brings to 
very moderate elevations plants which, in the southern parts of the 
Grampians, are found only on the ridges, and which are not pro- 
duced at all in the south of Scotland, for want of a sufficient ele- 
vation to give the Alpine climate. In the parish of Durness, how- 
ever, the descent of Alpine vegetation is greatly increased by its 

* This article was kindly communicated by Dr Graham, Professor of Botany in 
the University of Edinburgh. 

3 



DURNESS. 91 

western position. Several plants which, to the eastward in the same 
latitude, grow upon the sides of the mountains, grow here on the 
beach. 

On the top of the cliff overhanging the sea at Cape Wrath, we 
have Salix herbacea and Silene acatdis; and near Ke<^dale we have 
JTutKctrum alpinum^ close to the high water mark* Even a very 
few miles off, these plants have disappeared from the shore, and 
are met with only on the mountains, at a height increasing as we 
proceed eastward. On the other hand, the neighbourhood of the 
sea secures that mild temperature during winter, which enables less 
hardy plants to thrive ; or otherwise fits the fields of Durness for 
the growth of species which require a maritime climate. This is 
true with respect to many plants which appear 'in the pastures. 
The Primula Scotica abounds here, and in many places near the 
north shore of Scotland, but it has not been observed anywhere 
upon the mountains either to the eastward or southward. 

The soil in the parish is various ; but perhaps the only kind 
which, apart from the degree of moisture, seems to exert a sen- 
sible influence ih modifying the natural productions, is that form- 
ed over limestone, which abounds in the inunediate vicinity of 
the manse, and crops out in many places. It is no doubt on 
account of this that Dryas octopetala is so profuse in Durness. 
To the eastward and in the south, it is met with on the moun- 
tains, and on various rocks, but here it seems confined to the lime- 
stone, and is most abundant at the level of the sea. Equally cir- 
cumscribed, and on the same rock, is Epipactis latifolia^ and per- 
haps Draba incana extends no farther. Centaurea scabiosa is abun- 
dant in the fields around, and very seldom with white flowers. All 
these, except the last, are likewise found on limestone inAssynt, but 
rarely, if at all, in the intervening district, where limestone does 
not exist. A great part of the flat land towards Cape Wrath is 
bog, wholly different from the close fine turf which forms the sur- 
face near the manse. It produces in abundance the ordinary coarse 
herbage which is found to cover wet ground throughout the coun- 
try, as the various common species of Juncus^ Carex and Eriopho^ 
runiy while on the neighbouring drier banks we have Nardus stric- 
ta^ and the other grasses which generally grow along with it. These 
form very productive sheep pasture, and support a very excellent 
stock. In the bogs, there is abundance of Pinguicula Lusitanicay 
and of Drosera Anglica. Upon the shores of Sandwood and of 




02 St'THEELAHDSHIRE. 

Uurndtf»i we Imve a protwnon of Gentiana amarella and Thalictrum 
minus, Elyrnui arenarius and Juneus BaUiciu are met with in both 
|)ltteeS| the latter particularly abundant to the north of the house 
of Keoldalo. 

The mountain tops are generally dry and stony, and nothing has 
hitherto boen observed upon them but such Alpine plants as are 
found on many other mountain ranges in Scotland, except Luzvla 
«iiVMii/ii« Analm procumbens and Arbutus alpina abound chiefly on 
tht> U)W Mhouldara. Luzula arcuaia has been found only in three 
tiUtiivi^n ill liritain, the summit of the mountains at the source of 
\\w IHhh Ken More in Assynt, and Foinnbheinn in this parish; 
Hud nUuvg \^'ilh it, on the two last mountains, Aparffia alpina. 
{\\ KvaunUht^iuu theiv i:^ great abundance of Arabis pstrcecu It is 
Hium^^' th^ u)ouutaiu3^ in this and the adjoining parishes, forming 
tho lUH'th^^^'il of Scotland, that botanists expect to discover several 
K^ thi> yi^nU iH>iumon to the north of Europe and America, but 
which have not vet been added to the British Flora. 

With the exception of a few acres of Birch copse on the banks of 
Uooh Hope, and a few birch, poplar, and holly trees in the clefts of 
rocks and glens, the parish maybe said to be quite destitute of wood. 
In low and sheltered situations, however, the mosses retain tlie roots 
of fir, birch, willow, &c, and decayed trunks of from thirty to fifty 
feet in length are occasionally dug from the mosses. In sheltered 
situations, and where the soil is open and dry, there is little doubt 
but forest and fruit trees might grow, from the few specimens tried 
at Eriboll. Culinary vegetables thrive well. Notwithstanding the 
great quantities of rain in harvest, the crops are ripe, and secured 
at least three weeks earlier than in the neighbouring county of 
Caithness, — which may be occasioned by the difierence of soil, as 
well as the shelter, and the radiation of heat from the adjacent 
rocks and vallies. With the exception of six acres of winter sown 
wheat, tried for the first time at Balnakiel, the whole of the crops 
were cut and secured before the 2dd September 1833. 

II. — Civil History. 
It cannot be expected, that the annals of a parish so remote and 

so thinly inhabited, should at any time have excited much pub- 
lic interest Some accounts of the local conflicts of the clans Mac- 
kay, Gordon, and Sutherland, may be seen in Sir Robert Gordon's 
History of the Sutherland family, and Mackay's History of the 
Mackays. — A correct survey was taken of the coast in 1827 by or- 



DT7RNBSS. 93 

der of the Commissioners for the Northern Lights : and a map of the 
parish on a large scale, by Mr Burnet, land-surveyor, is preparing 
for publication, under the patronage of the Duke of Sutherland, 
who is now sole proprietor. 

Eminent Men. — Among the most eminent characters who were 
natives of this parish are the following : — 1^ General Mackay, 
who distinguished himself in the civil wars in the reign of King 
Charles IL His father, who was a branch of the Reay family, 
resided for some titne in Borley, but afterwards had his prin- 
cipal residence at Scowrie, in Edderachillis. 2if, Robert Donn 
or Calder, or, as he is sometimes called, Mackay, the celebrat- 
ed Reay country bard, was also a native of the parish. His 
lyrics, satires, and songs, are much admired and sung by the na- 
tives, and have rendered our mountains and glens classic ground. 
A volume of these was published in 1829 by Dr Mackay of Dunoon ; 
to which is prefixed a memoir of his life. 

Parochial Register. — The earliest date of the parochial register 
is 4th November 1764. It does not contain any register of deaths. 

Antiquities. — Among these, the first that claim attention are 
the circular Duns, which appear to have been very numerous 
in the Highlands. The ruins of ten of these Duns are to be 
seen in this parish. They appear to have been the residences 
of some native chieftain ; they are often built in low and fer- 
tile spots, and, in some places, they are surrounded by seve- 
ral circles of from 12 to 20 feet diameter, which in all pro- 
bability have been the foundations of the circular booths of the 
chieftain's dependents. The form of these Duns is the simplest 
mode of structure that would occur to a rude people. There 
is a tradition among the natives, that they were built to defend the 
inmates from the incursions of the wolves. The only remains 
from which we can judge of the form and structure of these Duns 
are — a segment of one in Strathmore, about sixteen feet high, near 
the south base of Ben Hope. It is called " ZWn DomigilU** t. e. 
Domadilla's Tower. The tradition is, that it was built by the 
Scottish king of that name, and used as a hunting residence. The 
outer circumference is about fifty paces in extent, and consists of 
two concentric walls, connected by large flags, which served the pur- 
pose of strengthening each other, and forming a pathway to the top. 
The triangular stone which forms the lintel is still seen in the 
building. The slaty stones of which it is built, bear no marks of 



94 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

having been shaped by tools, the acute angle being always upper- 
most.* 

There are also some subterraneous buildings, called ^^ Leabidh 
fholaichj^ 1. e. hiding-places : one of these, lately discovered at the 
west side of Loch EriboU Ferry, is about 40 feet long, 6 feet 
high, and about 6 feet wide, built of dry stone, and covered over 
by flags ; the descent is by regular steps, and the entrance is co- 
vered by a flag. It is still in good preservation. — There are seve- 
ral large stones placed on end, either in a circular or elliptical form, 
which appear to have been places of sepulture ; but no traces of 
writing have been seen on any of these. — Tumuli, and heaps of 
stones, called " cairns," are of frequent occurrence. In one of 
these, called ^^ Cnoc na cncimham^^ t. e. the hill of bones, near 
Keoldale, a small brass elliptical cockade was found two years ago, 
and a small polished bone, supposed to be used for fastening the 
military plaid. The tradition is, that it contains the remains of 
those who fell in battle. — Heads of arrows are occasionally found 
in the mosses ; they are from two to thr4e inches long, formed of 
a brown, red, or whitish flint-like stone, f 

Buildings. — There is a pretty large mansion-house at Balnakiel, 
where some of the Lords of Reay occasionally resided. It was 
built about ninety years ago. Another building of importance is 
the Light-house at Cape Wrath, the tower of which is fifty feet 
high. The building is altogether 350 feet above the level of the 
sea. It was built in 1827 of granite found at the Cape. Previ- 
ous to its erection, seldom a winter passed without one or more 
wrecks; but these are now of rare occurrence. At Rispond 
there is a good dwelling-house, and a pretty extensive range of 
houses and sheds for the salmon-boiling and herring-fishing. There 
is also a pier for sloops of ordinary size to load their cargoes. — The 
houses of the tacksmen merit no particular notice. Those of the 
small tenants and cottars are all built of turf or dry stone, plaster- 
ed on the inside with clay, with the exception of two or three in 
some hamlets whose western gable has a vent and chimney-stalk. 

* Se« Antiquities and Scenery in Scotland by Rev. Charles Cordiner of Banff, 
and Agricultural Survey of the County of Sutherland, 1806, Appendix. 

f The noted Donald M* Leod, a/ta« Mac Mhorchie-ic-eoin-mhoir, who was the 
Rob Hoy of the North, always carried his bow and arrows, either to the field or the 
forest. He died in 1623. His figure, represented in relief on the gravestone over 
his vault in the church of Durness, exhibits him with his bow and arrow. A draw- 
ing of this vault, and the gravestone and inscription, was lately executed by order of 
the Duke of Sutherland. — For further particulars of the history and character of this 
freebooter, see former Statistical Account of the Parish of Edderachillis, and Mac- 
kay's History of the Mackays. 



DURNESS. 95 

Several neat eottages, howeyer^ boilt with lime or clay, are com- 
menced in those hamlets where the lots are divided. 

IIL — Population. 
By a census taken in 1724, the population did not exceed 1000 

souls. In 1790 the population was 1182. In the Durness, or 
second district of the parish, there has been an increase of nearly 50 
per cent since 1815 ; but in the third or eastern district, Eriboll, 
the population has diminished since 1815 from 517 to 220. The 
decrease has been owing to the whole district having been con- 
verted into two extensive sheep-farms. The increase in the Dur- 
ness, or second division, has been owing to the establishment of 
the herring fishery, and the subdivision of lots in the different ham- 
lets. In 1815 from thirty to forty fEunilies emigrated to America. 

Population in 1801, - 1206 

1811, - 1155 

1821, - 1004 

1831, . 1153 

The average of marriages, for Uie last 7 years, is - - . 8 

of baptisms, .... S9^ 

Total number of persons 1st January 1834, - - - 1180 

Of these, there are under 15 years of age, - 448 

from 15 to 30, - - . 343 

from 30 to 50, - - - 185 

from 50 to 70, - - 164 

above 70, ... 40 

- UflO 

Number of bachelors and widowers above 50, - - - 13 

Unmarried women above 50, (excluding widows,) - - 44 

Average number of children in each family, . . . 3^ 

Number of families in the parish, .... 206 

chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 123 

in trade, manufactiu'cs, or handicraft, 13 

Insane persons, ... . - 2 

Fatuous, .... - - 10 

Blind, .... . . 4 

Deaf and dumb, ... . - 3 

Clans. — The principal clans in the parish are, those of M'Kay, 
Sutherland, Campbell, Morrison, and Gunn ; the two former ge- 
nerally distinguished by fair hair and blue eyes, — the Campbells and 
Gunns, by dark eyes and dark complexion. 

Character^ Sfc, of the People. — The natives are generally live- 
ly in their dispositions, social in their habits, and when engag- 
ed in labour, either at sea or on land, endure a good deal of fatigue. 
There are few artisans among them : and, having little or nothing 
to do in the winter months, many of them are in the habit of vi- 
siting and spending the evenings in each other's houses in the dif- 
ferent hamlets, hearing the news of the country, repeating the 
songs of their native bard, or listening to the legendary tales of 
some venerable Senachie, 



96 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

With the exception of eight families from the south of Scotland, 
all the natives speak Gaelic Though a considerable proportion 
* of the young can speak English, yet very few are able to follow out 
or understand an English sermon. Indeed, even those who speak 
and understand the English well, always prefer the Gaelic ser- 
vices. Whether this predilection arises from early associations, 
the influence of habit, or the greater ease, familiarity, and simpli- 
city in the style of the speakers, they think themselves more edi- 
fied by discourses in that tongue. It cannot be said, however, that 
the Gaelic language is spoken with such emphasisr and purity in 
this country as in some parts of the western Highlands; and, though 
it has been *a good deal corrupted by the younger people who now 
speak English, it has not lost much ground. 

The principle amusements are — playing at the ball and shinty on 
the fine sands of Balnakiel. The whole population turns out on 
old Christmas and new-year's day, and even old men of seventy are 
to be seen mingling in the crowd, remaining till night puts an end to 
the contest Indeed, the inhabitants of this parish have always been 
noted for the enthusiasm with which they engaged in these sports. 
To koop up the tone of action, they retire in the evening, and 
uiin^lo iu tlie dance to the music of the bagpipe, regardless of the 
hniij*o>* ami scars of the contest. Of this sport, Dr M'Leod of 
( ^uupnio luiH ^ivon a very humorous and graphical description in 
\\U *• 7K4iA</<iiiv Gaiilhleaeh.** Hallow-e'en eve is also a festive 
{\k\) \\\ llio ouloudur, hut is not kept with such enthusiasm as for- 
UUM'I>« S\»jH^iNtitious observances, belief in witches, and other en- 
v^luumuouls »uv f^mduully wearing away, — though even a grave el- 
^Um' »uh> oiHHtHioimUy bo met witli, who will quote scripture, and re- 
lutt) many traditionary stories, as evidences of his faith. 

A»i to tlio habits of the people, — it cannot be said that they are 
ranmrkable for cleanliness: the huts they occupy, — the smoke 
arising from the fire in the centre of the house, and forming a ca- 
nopy over them, — and the cattle entering by the same door with 
the inmates, — are not favourable to personal cleanliness. The 
change of dress within the last twenty or thirty years has been very 
marked, both with males and females. Instead of the tartan or kelt 
coat and trowsers, spun and dyed at home, when each family had 
their own wool, hardly any thing is to be seen on the young but the 
fustian jacket and trowsers, or the lighter tartan of the shops, and 
here and there the blue and fancy cloths of Leeds. The blue 



DURNESS. 97 

mantle and the well-spun blue gown of the fair sex is superseded 
by the prints and Merinos of modem times. The head is in many 
cases adorned or covered by a gauze or muslin cap, and now ana 
then by a straw-bonnet. Umbrellas are more numerous tharf great- 
coats or mantles. It is questionable whether, with these changes, 
the morals or comforts of the people have been improved. 

It could not be expected that a people who had led chiefly a pas- 
toral life were to be soon reconciled to the change which placed them 
in crowded hamlets upon the shore. The manufacture of kelp^ 
herring-fishing, road -making, and other occasional sources of in^ 
dustry during the summer and harvest, have, however, called out 
the latent industry of the young; but, as there has been, of late 
years, no encouragement to enter the army, and as they have no 
opportunities of learning trades at home, they are tempted to maiv 
ry too young; they then reside for some years with their parents, 
and divide the lot of two or three acres, chiefly reclaimed from moor, 
at the very time it promised to support the family with bread and 
potatoes. Thus, the wants of a new and rising family are to be pro-> 
vided for, and poverty and a high rate of population are kept up. 

The habits of dram-drinking, acquired by both sexes in their an- 
nual migrations to Caithness, and in the course of their mixing to- 
gether in crowded lodgings there, have tended to deteriorate the mo- 
rals of the people considerably. Their attendance on religious ordi- 
nances, however, is pretty regular ; and in most cases, the evening 
and morning devotions of the family are offered up. On the Sabbath 
evenings, the Shorter Catechism is taught ; or they congregate to- 
gether in some commodious house in the township, to repeat the 
Shorter Catechism and read the Scriptures. These meetings are 
always commenced and concluded by prayer and praise, and often 
tend to spread a moral and religious influence over the hamlet 
Smuggling, foreign and domestic, is now totally suppressed. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculturt and Rural Economy. — The whole of this parish, 

(with the exception of about one«twentieth part,) has been converted 

into four extensive sheep-walks, yielding on an average L. 500 

each of rent. From the irregular surface, and small patches in 

cultivation, it is impossible, without measurement, to ascertain the 

exact number of acres. The following is an approximation :-^ 

SUTHERLAND. G 



98 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

Imperial acres. 

1. Balnakiel farm and herds, .... 100 

2. Keoldale, do. ----- GO 

3. EriboU do. and subtenants, - - 80 

4. Ben Hope do. for herds, ... 6 

Glebe, 12 

120 small tenants and cottars, with 2 acres each, on an average, 240 



Total, 498 

Along the shores, straths, and glens under sheep, a considerable 
proportion of the land is arable, — ^perhaps about 300 acres. Of 
good pasture capable of being brought into cultivation by spade 
husbandry, there are 1000 acres at least The amount might be 
made equal to what is already in cultivation by the tenants and cot- 
tars, and capable of supporting three times the present popula- 
tion, — even though the whole of the mountain pasture and some of 
the straths and shores should be left under sheep. 

Rent ofljond. — The average rent of arable land per acre is from 
20s. to dOs.; but to all arable land there is attached a right of pas- 
ture on a conunon hill. The estimated value of grazing for sheep 
or wedders is about 2s. 6d. each on the great sheep-farms. Cows 
are pastured on rich meadows at L.d per annum. Including stock 
farms, kelp, and salmon fishery, the rental of the parish is about 
L. 2550. 

Wages. — Day labourers receive Is. 6d. per day; artisans, from 2s. 
to 3s.; farm-servants L. 6 per annum, 7 bolls meal, and 20 barrels 
potatoes, and one cow's grass ; farm or domestic female servants, 
L. 3 per annum and board. 

Breeds of Lwe-Stock. — The only breed of sheep is the Cheviot 
or white-faced, with the exception of about 300 cross or black- 
faced, kept by small tenants and cottars on the common grazing. 
To the improvement of the former very great attention is paid — 
botli wool and carcase fetching average prices at market. The 
principal breed of black-cattle is the Highland, reared by small te- 
nants. TIio few milch cows on the sheep-walks are chiefly Ayr- 
shire. With the exception of six pair of Clydesdale horses 
kept for husbandry by the sheep-farmers, all the rest of the horses 
are small Highland ponies. 

Ilmhandry. — Several acres of waste or marshy land have been 
druinod at Balnakiel, but are laid out in pasture. The old 
nuxli^ of reclaiming waste land was by making Ictzy beds^ u e. by 
])0<*ling one part of the ground and laying it over another of equal 
Hpac(\ Trenching was never used, but a better and more econo- 




DURNESS. 99 

mical system is now employed. The runrig system is wearing out, 
and every township is in the course of being lotted out in regu- 
lar divisions, and cottages are building on each lot. " Though the 
expense and labour of building these be great to the small tenants, 
especially in a country where masons and carpenters must be 
brought from other places, yet they submit to the charge, though 
no leases are given, and have every confidence, that, under the li- 
beral and enlightened management of the family of Sutherland, 
they will be furnished with new sources of industry. 

The sheep-farmers have leases of nineteen years; and all of 
them have lately made considerable improvements in diking and 
surface draining. 

Fisheries, — Herring, — The principal fisheries are the herring, 
salmon, and lobster. The early herring fishing commences in June. 
At this season, the fish are so rich that it is difficult to cure them, and 
they are sent oflF weekly to market. The late fishing commences 
about the middle of July and continues till September. It was 
only of late that the out sea fishing commenced on this coast. 
And even yet, it hardly remunerates those engaged in it. A 
smaller but superior species of herring is found occasionally in 
Loch Eriboll ; but it is chiefly used for home consumption. Ten 
boats are employed at Rispond : they are each manned by four men 
and a boy, and cost each L. 36. 

Lobster Fishing, — The lobster fishing commences in May 
and is carried on with little intermission till August. Six boats 
of fourteen feet keel were employed last season, each boat having 
two men, and being furnished with twenty or more nets inclosed 
in circular iron cylindrical hoops or rings of two and a-half feet 
diameter ; a piece of herring or gray fish being tied in the centre 
of the mesh for bait. The nets are cast into the sea within a few 
yards of the shore by one of the men, while the other rows for- 
ward ; and they are raised in about an hour after. This is conti- 
nued from sunset to sunrise. When a lobster is cauglTt, the large 
claws are fastened together by a strong packing thread, — otherwise, 
by the muscular strength of their claws, they would soon destroy 
each other. When thus secured, they are conveyed in the morn- 
ing to the perforated floating chest, until they are called for week- 
ly by the welled smacks. 

Cod and Ling Fishing, — Cod and ling, though abundant on the 
coast, have not been much fished by the natives. 

Salmon Fishing. — The only rivers in which salmon are caught 



100 SUTHEBLAND8HIRE. 

are the Hope and Dinard ; on both of these there are cruives and 
coble fishing- The fishuig commences in the end of March and 
ceases in August The spawning months are October and Novem- 
ber. The following table shows the weight of salmon and grilse 
caught during the last two years. 

lbs. Salmon. lU. GrilM. Riven. 

1832, 624 1946 > . jji^^^^ 

1883, 181 887} 

1882, 1488 4650 i . Hope. 

1^ 2166 7895 f "*^- 

Several of the larger bums or streams have salmon but, from 
their distance and the diflSculty of access, fishing in these would 
not remunerate the expense. * 

Produce. — The following is the average gross amount of raw 
produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, viz. 

900bolLiofgrainofallkindi,atl88. - - - L.800 

20 acres turnip at L. 5, iSX n S 

1000 bolls potatoes at 8s., - - - - 222 n n 

1 1000 stones hay, cultivated and meadow, ... a7U U U 

Cattle sold by small tenants, - - - 100 

Sheep sold by stock Ikrmers, being the average for the last six years, viz. 
1830 ewes at lis., - - - L. 1006 

2000weddersatL. 1, - - - 2000 

8210 stones wool, at ISs., - - - 2407 

5418 

500 barrels herring atL.1, - -- - - 50000 

fi842 lobsters at dd., 73 

2346 lbs. salmon at 5d., - - r L. 47 

8782 lbs grilse at 4d., - - - 146 

193 

40 tons kelp at L. 3, - - - - 120 

MiaoolUmeous produce, - - - - 27 

L.8000 

N. B. — It must be observed, that meal is imported to the pa- 
rish to the average amount of 300 bolls annually. 

Kelp manttfacture, — The only manufacture worthy of notice is 
the kelp. It commences in June, and in favourable seasons is fi- 
nished early in July. It is cut every alternate year, spread out on 
the shores, and when nearly dried is put up in heaps and burnt in 

^* It is the universal belief of the oldest and most experienced fishermen acquainted 
with different waters, that salmon never deposit their spawn except in rivers ; that 
they universally and instinctively frequent the rivers on which they were spawned ; 
that, however numerous the fish in traversing the shores, and when entering the es- 
tuary or frith, each turns to that direction where the river in which it was spawned 
empties itself. Where a stranger can hardly discern any difference, a practued eye 
will single out the fish of different rivers from each other, and view them almost as 
varieties of the same species. It is true, that large shoals of salmon belonging to 
different rivers, on their return from the ocean, often congregate at estuaries, and are 
cauglit in the net ; but the stranger fish, on tasting the water, and entering fiiirly 
into the channel of the river, soon returns, not finding the velocity, temperature, co- 
lour, or taste of the water congenial to its habits. 



DUBNESS. 101 

long narrow kilns of loose stones of 2 feet wide, and 13 or 16 feet 
long ; when thoroughly melted and well-wrought» it is, after cool- 
ing, broken up to heaps, and covered with turf till it is shi|^ped« 

Navigation. — There are three small sloops at Rispond, of the 
respective tonnage of 25, 37, and 51. These are managed by ten 
men, and are principally employed in the coasting trade. One of 
them goes occasionally to Hamburgh with early herrings. 

V. — Parochial Economt. 

Means of Communication. — Thurso is the nearest market-town, 
65 miles distant There are no villages, the population all resid- 
ing in hamlets along the shores, containing from 4 or 5 to 20 fami- 
lies. The means of communication have been much improved dur- 
ing the last three years, by the liberality of the late Duke of Suther- 
land. Formerly, the post-office was at Bonar Bridge, a distance of 
62 miles, to which there was a runner sent once a-week at the 
sole expense of a few subscribers. There is now a post-office 
twice a-week to Tongue. The days of dispatch are Monday and 
Thursday ; of arrival, Tuesday and Friday, — to suit the Golspie 
mail, which crosses the interior to Tongue every Monday and 
Thursday. There is a weekly runner to Scowrie. There is also 
a monthly carrier to Tain ; but almost all imports and exports are 
by sea. 

The roads are, Ist, a road from the Kyle of Durness to Cape 
Wrath, executed by the Light-house Commissioners in 1828, 11 
miles in length ; 2^ from Eriboll by Strathmore, till its junction 
with the Tongue road to the south, 19 miles; 3J, the main line 
leading from west to east, — 34 miles round by Loch Eriboll, or, 
by crossing the ferry, 24 miles. With the exception of 12 miles, 
commenced ten years ago by statute-labour, these roads were com- 
pleted by the late Duke of Sutherland, and have completely open- 
ed up the country to new sources of industry, and the gratification 
of the traveller, and the speculations of the capitalist There is 
an excellent bridge over the Dinard, and a chain-boat over the 
Hope. 

The harbours are, Loch Eriboll, Rispond, and Port Our, at 
the termination of the Cape Wrath road, and Smo ; the last only 
for boats.. At Rispond, there is a basin and pier, and rings fasten- 
ed to the rocks in the bay ; but this is not reckoned very safe in 
north-east gales and spring, tides. Loch Eriboll, in the bay, 
where there is a church, is reckoned a very safe anchorage. A slip 
for boats has been also made at Clashcamach, three miles east of 



102 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

the cape, where the light-house yacht lands the oil and necessa- 
ries for the light-house ; but is seldom attempted in^ stormy wea- 
ther with northerly winds. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated within half a mile 
of the manse, at Balnakiel Bay. About three-fourths of the po- 
pulation, or all within six miles, attend. Its distance from the ex- 
tremity to the south-east is 26 miles, and from the western extre- 
mity 12 miles. It was built in 1619, and the aisle added in 1692; 
it has no galleries, and contains 300 sittings, which are all free. It 
stands much in need of repair and enlargement The practice of 
burying within the walls has been discontinued for nearly a cen- 
tury. The manse was rebuilt in 1830, and is commodious. The 
glebe, including its hill grazings and pertinents, may be worth L.30 
per annum. The stipend is L. 150, and is on the list of small liv- 
ings augmented by act of Parliament in 1812. 

In the Eriboll district, there is sermon preached every alternate 
Sabbath ; it is connected with the Milness district of the parish of 
Tongue, twelve miles distant. The missionary here is supported 
solely by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, on a sa- 
lary of L. 50. There are no Dissenters or Roman Catholics. The 
sacrament is dispensed once a-year, in summer. The number of 
communicants is 70 ; but, on such occasions, tokens to the amount 
of 150 are distributed to communicants who attend from neigh- 
bouring parishes. Collections in aid of religious and charitable 
institutions are occasionally made, — the average annual amount of 
which may be L. 3. 

The schools in the parish are, parochial, 1 ; Assembly, 1 ; sub- 
scription, 2 1 in which the ordinary elementary branches are taught. 
The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is the minimum, or L.24: 
of the General Assembly's L. 20. The school-fees in either of these 
do not exceed L. 4 per annum. The former has not the legal ac- 
commodations ; those of the latter are new and sufficient The 
subscription schools are chiefly taught during the winter. In some 
remote hamlets and families, boys are hired during the winter 
months to teach, at the rate of 20s. per month, and board. A con- 
siderable number of cottars and poor tenants, who have access to 
the parochial school, have not of late years been much alive to the 
benefits of education, — which may arise from their poverty, or want 
of confidence in the ability and diligence of a teacher so indiffe- 
rently remunerated. 

The number of persons betwixt 6 and 15 who cannot read or 



DURNESS. 103 

write is 90; of those upwards of ]5, is 216. It must be borne 
in mind, however, that the majority of those not included in this 
calculation cannot write. It is to be hoped that the district where 
the Assembly school is situated will, ere long, derive considerable 
benefit from the school, both in a moral and intellectual point of 
view. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor receiving pa- 
rochial aid is 45, — in sums of from ds. to 8s. or 10s. each. The 
annual amount of contributions for their relief does not exceed 
L. 20, viz. church weekly contributions, L. 12, with the interest of 
a legacy, I^. 2, and alms, L. 6. It must be noticed, however, 
that in this, as well as in other Highland parishes, where the cir- 
culating medium is very scarce, the poor are regularly furnish- 
ed with meal, fleeces, clothes, &c. in value at least equal to the 
sums of money annually divided by the kirk-session. It is to be 
regretted that, of late, the poor do not consider it degrading to be 
on the roll of the session funds. There are no assessments for 
the poor, or charitable institutions ; yet, when extraordinary calls 
are made, the inhabitants have always manifested a commendable 
liberality. 

Inns. — There are three inns, or rather houses licensed to retail 
whisky. But hitherto, travellers have been in most cases obliged 
to draw on the hospitality of the inhabitants. Comfortable inns 
and stabling are, however, now in progress. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

The most important change since the last Statistical Ac- 
count has been the introduction of sheep-farming, which commen- 
ced about thirty years ago, and has been extended since. Though 
in some respects this may have augmented the revenue of the pro- 
prietor, and added to the commercial wealth of the nation, yet it 
is very questionable, if k has added, in the meantime, to the in- 
tellectual, moral, or religious superiority of the inhabitants. 

The division of the parish into such extensive farms has also 
suppressed almost entirely the middle classes of society, who paid 
rents of from L. 10 to L. 50, and has thereby tended to extinguish, 
in a great degree, the intelligence and laudable emulation of the 
lower classes. The former generally felt a desire of giving every 
advantage of education to their children at school, and their ex- 
ample diffused an emulation among the latter. The great sheep- 
farmers who are resident employ teachers in their families ; the 
schools are attended by the poorer classes, who are all on the same 



104 SUTHERLAND8HIRE. 



level, — and that, for the most part, during the winter only. Lads 
when they can handle an oar remove to Caithness, and after two 
or three years training there, getting the share of a boat on credit, 
they have arrived at the summit of their ambition, and marry. 
From the extinction of the middling classes of society, the writer 
hereof, in common with several of his brethren, has to regret the 
difficulty of finding men suitable for being ordained elders. It can- 
not be expected, however worthy the individuals may be who may be 
nominated to this office, that while poor and in some cases illite- 
rate, they can be so influential in checking immorality, stimulating 
to intellectual and religious attainments^ and suppressing supersti- 
tious and enthusiastic feeling. 

While such improvements have been made on the physical as- 
pect of the parish, by the liberality of the late Duke, and which 
there is every confidence will be continued, in making the harbours 
and creeks more accessible and available, it is hoped that the te- 
nants will gradually acquire the knowledge of artisanship, as well 
as of fishing, and thus add to the productive capabilities of the 
country, and their own individual comfort. 

September 1834. 



PARISH OF ASSYNT. 

PBESBYTERT OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. CHARLES GORDON, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The word Assyntj or AssitU, is supposed to be a Gae- 
lic oompound, ** as agus inntej** signifying out and in, evidently 
referriDg to, and descriptive of, the general outline of the parish. 
Indeed, a glance at the map of Assynt makes it extremely pro- 
bable that this derivation is correct. Other derivations have been 
given, connected with legendary traditions ; but the above seems 
die preferable one* 

Extent and Boundaries. — The parish contains 97,000 acres of 
sur&ce. Its extreme length, viz. from Cromalt to the point of 
Store, is about 36 miles. lis greatest breadth from Inverkirkig to 
Ardvar, about 18 miles. In breadth, however, it varies much. 
The parish is situated in the north-west part of the county of 
Sutherland, and is thus bounded : on the north, it is divided from 
the parish of Edderachillis, in the Reay country, by an arm of the 
sea of considerable breadth, called the Kyle, which runs betwixt 
both parishes from west to east ; on the east and south, by Kin- 
cardine, Creich, Lairg, and Lochbroom ; and on the west, by the 
Atlantic 

Topographical Appearances. — Few districts in Scotland are more 
mountainous. The general aspect of the parish is rugged. Many 
of the mountains are of considerable altitude. The most remark- 
able of these are, Benmore, Cuniack, Suilvhen, or Sugar-loaf, 
Cannisb, &c 

The first mentioned, Benmore, or Conval, is supposed to be 
the loftiest mountain in the county — about 8230 feet above the 
level of the sea* It is seen in various directions from a conside* 
rable distance. Ptarmigan are easily got here, especially during 
snow storms. 

Cuniack has a most romantic and peculiar shape and appear- 

SUTHERLAND. H 



106 SUTHERLAND. 

ance. It is a lofty ridge, extending southwards from Unapool to 
Loch Assynt, where it terminates in a minute peak. On the west 
it is lofty, precipitous, and inaccessible. On the east it is more 

gradual. 

Suilvhen, or Sugar-loaf, as it is called by sea-faring people, on 
account of its resemblance to that article, is southward of Lochin- 
ver, and near the boundary of Coigach, in the county of Cromarty. 
These mountains are often covered with snow. Game is found 
in these and in other districts of the parish, but by no means in 
such abundance as before the introduction of sheep-farming. 

The other hills, which are extremSly numerous, are of less 
note, being diminutive in comparison of those we have mention- 
ed. Most of these abound in springs, and the quality of water is 
excellent. The lower part of the parish, particularly the Store 
district, is not so well supplied with this essential of life. 

Caves. — There are several caves, and some natural arches, to be 
found, chiefly along the coast, and some in the interior. There 
are two which are* often visited by the tourist, within two miles of 
the parish church, and on the Stronchrubie farm. Into one of 
these, if you enter, you must proceed in a creeping posture for 
several yards, through a rugged and dark passage, when you find 
yourself suddenly introduced into a well-lighted and somewhat 
spacious apartment. There is another cave of large dimensions 
near the point of Store. 

The extent of the coast from the water of Inverkirkig, round 
the point of Store, to Ardvar, is about twenty miles. 

The shore, in general, is bold, rocky, and dangerous ; though 
in some places there is a fine sandy bottom, and safe landing. 

There are many islands, most of them, however, so small as to be 
utterly insignificant; some of these are merely bare rocks, af- 
fording neither pasture nor shelter. The largest and most va- 
luable is the island of Oldney ; its length probably a mile, its 
greatest breadth a quarter of a mile. It is attached to the sheep 
farm of that name, and is valuable as a grazing. Its insular situa- 
tion renders herding and fences unnecessary. 

Crona, a little flat island adjoining Oldney. 

Soya and Klett, two small islands on the south side of Rhu- 
store, attached to the adjoining farm of Filin. 

MeteoroIoffy.-^Theve has been no record of observations kept 
The climate is extremely wet, and high winds prevail. From 
what has already been said regarding the mountainous nature of 

3 



ASSYNT. 107 

the district, and its proximity' to the sea, it will readily be conclud- 
ed, that we have much rainy weather — so much is this the case, 
that the harvesting of our crop, is an operation extremely precarious. 
We frequently experience severe storms of thunder and lightning, 
and two years ago, a young man was instantaneously deprived of 
life by the electric fluid. At the same time some cattle also were 
struck dead* Instances of this kind are fortunately rare. The 
climate, though severe, is upon the whole salubrious, and the 
inhabitants healthy. Consumption, however, is not unfrequent, 
and is generally induced by exposure, during the long harvest 
nights, at the herring-fishing. The prevailing wind is westerly, 
and invariably accompanied by torrents of rain. With easterly 
winds we generally have dry weather, but these are piercing and 
intensely cold. 

Hydrography. — Every hill and valley, particularly in the heights 
of the parish, is abundantly supplied with springs of water, some 
of which are very large. There is one at Achumore, ten or twelve 
feet in circumference. There are several beautiful lakes, some pf 
which deserve to be particularly noticed. 

Loch Assynf. — Its extreme length is 6} miles ; its greatest breadth 
about a mile. It is a fresh water lake, and its banks in most places 
covered with brushwood. The scenery altogether is most delight- 
ful, and cannot fail to attract the notice of the intelligent tourist- 
It abounds in trout of various kinds, and as there is no restriction 
as to angling, or setting nets, the few inhabitants in the neighbour- 
hood are able, in the proper season, to supply themselves, with an 
agreeable and wholesome addition to their daily fare. 

Loch Assynt possesses considerable attraction for the angler* 
About two years ago, it was visited by Sir William Jardine, the 
naturalist, and others, who minutely inspected the different kinds of 
trout found here and in other lochs in the neighbourhood, the re- 
sult of whose researches must no doubt prove interesting and use- 
ful. Before there was a road from the height of the parish to the 
shores, there were several boats kept on the loch for the purposes 
of carriage. At the east end of the loch stands the church. 
Next in size to Loch Assynt is Cam- Loch, i.e. the crooked loch, 
in the Elphine, or highest district of the parish. It is a beautiful 
lake, very irregular in shape, as its name implies. Trout are found 
here in abundance, as well as in Loch Assynt. Cam- Loch is in 
a most sequestered spot 



108 SUTHERLAND. 

Friths. — 1. The Kyle, already mentioned, is an arm of the sea, 
dividing Assynt from Edderachillis. 2. On the south side of 
Rhustore, there is an arm of the sea running into the bay of Loch- 
inver, which affords safe anchorage for vessels. 

Waterfalls. — There is a fall at Inverkirkig, and another near 
the boundaries of the glebe. The former possesses considerable 
attraction for the admirers of nature. With regard to the latter, 
except when there is a great body of water, after heavy rain, it 
appears insigniBcant. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — From Ledbeg to Achumore, a dis- 
tance of eight miles, there is abundance of limestone ; it then disap- 
pears, and little more is seen of it, till the traveller reaches Duir* 
ness. On the Stronchrubie farm is a stupendous ridge of lime- 
stone rock, interspersed with strata of sandstone. The scenery 
here is truly majestic In the vicinity of populous cities, this rock 
could not fail to prove the source of much wealth. It extends 
about a mile and a half, overhanging the public road* It is almost 
perpendicular, except about the centre. In many parts it is mantled 
with ivy. Birds of prey have their nests here. Its height is pro- 
bably 200 feet. Beyond Achumore there is no limestone found. 
The pasture on limestone bottom is uncommonly rich. 

Botany. — The alpine vegetation of the parish of Assynt is very 
similar to that which is met with in equal elevations in die greater 
part of the north of Scotland. As types may be mentioned, 

Saussurea alpina Chcrleria sedoides 

Hieraciuni alpinum Vaccinium uligtnosum, 

Asplenium viride 

as plants which are not very rare in alpine districts : but less 
generally diffused than such as these last named, onay be men- 
tioned, Carex pulla^ Carex pauciflora^ and Arbutus alpina. 

The limestone districts in the parish are characterized by 
Epipactis latifoliaf Dryas octopetala — the latter in great profusion, 
and perhaps, in Sutherlaudshire, only growing on limestone or mi- 
caceous rocks. 

Among the rare plants found in alpine or subalpine districts of 
the parish, may be mentioned Pyrus Aria^ Apargia alpina^ Lu^ 
zula arcuata, — this last found in Scotland only in three station^ of 
which Benmore, Assynt, is one. 

Silene maritima also grows on Benmore. 

The following may be named as yielded by the bogs in the 
parish : — 



ASSYNT. 109 

Carex filiformis Drosera rotundifulia 

I limosa Sparganium fluitans 

Utricularia minor Cladium Mariscua, In a swamp half* way 

— intermedia between Kylestroma and BadcalL 

Drosera Anglica, in profusion LiguKticum Scoiicum is abundant on the 
â–  longifblia shores in some places. 

11. — Civil History. 

There are no printed or manuscript accounts of Assynt extant, 
so far as the narrator knows. Various traditions, however, speak of 
individuals, noted in their day, living in or connected with the 
parish. Among these we may mention Neil Macleod, who resided 
at Ardvrack Castle (now a ruin), built on the banks of Loch 
Assynt, on a peninsula, situated within two miles of the eastern 
extremity of the loch. 

It is said that the unfortunate Marquis of Montrose, who 6gur- 
ed so conspicuously as a Royalist in the civil war in the reign of 
Charles L, after being defeated by General Strachan at Invercar- 
ron, fled towards Assynt, and was betrayed by Macleod, in whom 
he had reposed confidence. 

There are correct plans and maps of Assynt in the possession 
of the noble proprietrix, and a recent map of the county, both mi- 
nute and accurate, has been published. 

The Duchess- Countess of Sutherland is sole proprietrix of the 
parish. It has been in the possession of her Grace's family since 
the early part of the eighteenth century, when it was purchased 
by the then Earl of Sutherland, grandfather of the present Countess. 
In the former Statistical Account, published in 1794, is the 
following narrative : — " State of property^ ^c. — The property of 
this parish has, perhaps, undergone as few changes as any. Tra- 
dition, and even documents declare, that it was a forest of the an- 
cient Thanes of Sutherland. One of these prime Thanes gave it 
in vassalage to one Mac-Kry-Cul, who in ancient times held the 
coast of Coigach, that part of it presently (1793) called the vil- 
lage of Ullapool. The noble Thane thus made Assynt over, as 
Mac-Kry-Cul had recovered a great quantity of cattle carried off 
from the county of Sutherland by foreign invaders, Scandinavians, 
who burnt the great fir forests in this and the neighbouring coast. 

^^ Mac-Kry-CuPs family, by the fate of war in those days of old, 
being reduced to one heir-female, she was given in marriage to a 
younger son of Macleod, Laird of Lewis, the Thane of Suther- 
land consenting thereto, and also making this parish over to the 
new married couple, with its superiority. The result of this mar. 
riage was fourteen successive lairds of the name of Macleod. 



no SUTHERLAND. 

'* In 1660} or about that time, this parish and its superiority be* 
came the property of the Earl of Seaforth, who made it over to 
a younger son of his family, whose successors possessed it for three 
or four generations. Thereafter, it was purchased by Lady Strath- 
naver, who gave it as a present to her Noble and no less deserving 
grandson, the late William, Earl of Sutherland, father of the pre- 
sent Right Honourable Countess of Sutherland, married to Earl 
<xower, heir-apparent to the Marquis of Stafford. Thus the ba- 
rony and parish of Assynt reverted to the Noble family who gave 
it to Mac-Kry-Cul." 

The term of the Thane of Sutherland's charter to Macleod 
was, ^^ as long as a cow gives milk, and waves beat on a rock." 

Family of Assynt. — The whole of the estate and parish of As- 
synt once belonged to the Macleods of Assynt, a branch of the 
ancient family of the Macleods of Lewis. The first of the Assynt 
branch was Norman, second son of Torquil, fourth Baron of Lewis, 
from whom he got Assynt as his patrimony about the year 1860. 
From ^Norman, the estate passed through nine generations, to 
Neil, ninth baron, who, from a combination of his enemies to ef- 
fect his ruin, and other unfortunate events, was denuded of his 
estate about the year 1679. There were encumbrances on the 
property of long standing, and the laird having become security 
for friends, in several small sums, some of his more powerful 
neighbours, taking advantage of his indolence, and the difficulty 
of access to public justice, bought up his debts, by which means 
they carried off his whole estate for less than half its value ; and 
though both he and his heirs raised several actions for the reco- 
very of their just rights, they never obtained any redress. To 
such a length was the spite of his enemies carried against this un- 
fortunate gentleman, that, not satisfied with having deprived him 
of his estate, a criminal process was instituted against him before 
the Court of Justiciary on various charges, of which he was finally 
acquitted by the verdict of a jury of his countrymen, as appears 
from the records of that Court His estate, having fallen into the 
hands of the Seaforth family, was forfeited to the Crown, together 
with the possessions of that family in 1715, and was sold in 1758 
to the late Earl of Sutherland, so that it now forms part of the 
vast territorial property of her Grace the Duchess- Countess of 
Sutherland. On the. death of Neil, the last Baron of Assynt, 
-without issue, the representation of the family devolved on bis 
brother John, who left a son Donald, a captain in the Dutch ser- 



ASSYNT. 1 1 I 

Vice, and he having married an heiress, was enabled thereby to 
purchase the estate of Geanies in Ross-shire. He was succeeded 
by his eldest son Hugh, and Hugh by his son Donald Macleod of 
Grcanies, the late venerable Sheriff-depute of Ross and Cromarty, 
who filled that office with credit to himself and advantage to his 
country nearly sixty years ; having departed this life in January 
1834, in the 89th year of his age. His eldest son predeceased 
his father, leaving a son, still a minor, the present representative 
of the family. * 

Parochial Register. — There is no register of date previous to 
1798. Since that period, births and marriages have been recorded 
with tolerable regularity, but there is no register of deaths. 

Antiquities, — 1. Ardvrack Castle, supposed to be built about 
the year 1581 or 1591 by the Macleods, who originally came from 
Lewis. It has for a considerable period been in ruins, but appears 
to have been strongly built and fortified. 

2. Calda House, a more modem building, erected by the Macken- 
zies, who succeeded the Macleods as Lairds of Assynt This 
building was destroyed by fire, (some say designedly,) about 100 
years ago. Nothing remained but the bare walls. 

3. There is a very large dun or heap at Clachtoll, the remains 
of a Druidical temple, with a double line of stone wall on the 
landward side ; towards the sea it is sufficiently protected by that 
element, and a rocky shore. It used to be called " Tighe tal- 
mhidh na Druinich," i. e. the earthly house of the Druids. 

4. Close to the parish church there is an enclosed burying- 
ground, in which are interred several of the Macleods of Assynt. 

This j)uilding is evidently part of what was once a place of wor- 
ship. The following tradition connected with it explains the cause 
of its being built : 

One Angus Macleod, supposed to be the great-grandson of the 
first Laird of Assynt of that name, had a quarrel with some neigh- 
bouring family. Out of revenge, he set fire to their chapel or 
place of worship. The consequence of this sacrilegious act was, 
his being excommunicated by the Pope. The displeasure of the 
Roman Pontiff was a serious matter in those days. Angus sub- 
mitted, and asked forgiveness at Rome. This was granted, but by 
way of penance, he was enjoined to erect three places of worship, 

* When the estate was sold, as mentioned above, some small compensation for the 
losses of the fiimily was granted by the Crown to the then proprietor, Hugh Macleod 
Esq. of Geanies. 



112 SUTHERLAND. 

the remains of one of which we are now describing. A second 
was built at Inver, and the third at Store. 

5« On the Stronchrubie farm, and near the high road, there 
may be seen an extraordinary mass of stone and lime, having the 
appearance of having been in former times a part of some very 
large and thick building, such as an old castle. The lime seems 
as if infused into the mass. As there is not the least vestige of 
any such building in the neighbourhood, it is difficult to account 
for it, unless we suppose it to have assumed its present form in 
consequence of some volcanic eruption. 

There are no* modern buildings of any note in the parish, though 
there are several tolerably good dwelling-houses. 

III. — Population. 

By oensus 1881, the population was 8161—1508 males, and 1656 females. 

In 1760 the population was 1800 
1801 2419 

1821 2803 

So that, upon the whole, the population has been on the increase. 
Of the present population about 1400 are attached to the church 
and parish of Store. 

Yearly average of births for the last seyen years, . 88 

marriages, . . 14 

Number of families, . . • 875 

Average number of individuals in each fiimily, . 5 

Families chiefly employed in agriculture, • 461 

trade, betweien 20 and 80 

All other families, .... 90 

There are no nobility or people of independent fortune resident 
in the parish. 

Language. — The Gaelic language is still universal in Assynt, 
and the only medium of. religious instruction. The English lan- 
guage, however, is making slow biit sure progress. The youth of 
the parish are ambitious of acquiring it, being sensible that the 
want of it proves a great bar to their advancement in life. It is 
likely, nevertheless, that Assynt is one of the very last districts 
in which the Gaelic language shall cease to be the language of 
the people. It is remarkable that the Gaelic School Society will 
probably prove the means, at a remote period, of the expulsion of 
the Gaelic language from the Highlands. The teachers em- 
ployed by that useful society, to whom we owe much, taught the 
young to read the Scriptures in their native tongue. This im- 
planted a desire to acquire knowledge on other subjects, which 
induced them to have recourse to the English language as the 
medium of communication. 



ASSYNT. 113 

Character of the Pecjpfe.— The character of the people may be 
said to be good. They are kind, civil, and extremely hospitable ; 
patient of labour, and capable of enduring much bodily fatigue* 
In general they prefer making immense exertions at times, to more 
moderate but constant labour. They live sparingly. Their chief 
articles of food are herrings and potatoes. Some attention has, of 
late, been paid to cleanliness and neatness about their dwellings, 
but very much remains to be done. Upon the whole, they may 
be said to be contented with their situations. They are naturally 
shrewd and intelligent, and regular in their attendance on public 
worship. Poaching and smuggling, particularly the latter, were 
carried on to an alarming extent, and proved extremely prejudi- 
cial to the morals of the people. Now, the narrator is happy to be 
able to say, that, through the judicious and determined exertions 
of the Noble proprietor, aided by the gentlemen who have the 
management, such irregularities ar« almost unknown amongst us. 

IV. — Industry. 

From situation and climate, the greater part of Assynt, particu- 
larly the interior, is peculiarly adapted for pasturage. According* 
ly a large portion of it is laid out in sheep-walks, viz, Ledbeg, 
Filin, &C. at a rent of L. 540 ; Achumore, L. 838 ; Ardvar^ 
L.220; Stronchrubie, L.205; and Ledmore, L. 80, 

It will thus be seen that sheep> farming is carried on to a con- 
siderable extent. It is also prosecuted systematically. 

Th^ great bulk, however, of the population dwell along the 
shores, where they have the benefit of fishing. They occupy lot« 
of land at rents ranging from L. 2 to L. 5. The land is not high 
rented, but the occupants, in general, are in straitened circum- 
stances. This arises from the over*crowded state of the popula- 
tion. On the lot of land which, according to the rental book, is 
assigned to only one family, two are frequently found residing. 
This is the true cause of our poverty, and, unless emigration on a 
large scale takes place, matters must soon come to a painful crisis. 
At the same time, from want of climate, a great part of Assynt is 
unfit for cultivation. 

Rents. — Of old, the valued rent of the parish was L. 1000 Scots. 
In the year 1794, it was L. 1000 Sterling. In the year 1812, 
when there was a general setting of the farms through the parish, 
it was about L. 5000 ; now it is reduced to something less than 
L.d00O. 

Quame^.-— From Ledbeg to Achumore the soil is limestone. 



114 SUTHERLAND. 

About thirty years ago, an attempt was made to quarry marble 
both at Ledbeg, and in the immediate vicinity of the church. 
The marble was found susceptible of a very fine polish, and an 
enterprising individual, a native of Newcastle, commenced quarry- 
ing. Roads were formed, or rather tracts for the heavy waggons, 
from Ledbeg to Unapool, a distance of sixteen miles. This was 
an undertaking of considerable difficulty, and after a large quanti- 
ty was shipped, it was found attended with such expense, that it 
was impossible to compete with quarries, in more eligible situations, 
and the project was dropped. 

Salmon Fisheries. — There are no fisheries in the parish deserv- 
ing the name, except that on the water of Kirkag, and that which 
leads from Loch Assynt to Lochinver. These are let at a mode- 
rate rent. 

Navigation. — There are very few vessels belonging to Assynt. 
Mr Macdonald, Lochinver, has one or two. Several vessels, how- 
ever, are yearly employed on our coasts in the herring trade, and 
a few in exporting the produce of the parish, which consists chiefly 
^f wool. 

There are no associations in the parish for the encouragement or 
improvement of industry ; but the Noble proprietors supply this de- 
ficiency in a great measure, by rewarding the industrious, and thus 
inciting to additional exertions. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Markets. — There is no market-town within the parish ; neither 

have any markets been established. It is intended to establish a 
cattle market at Inshnadamph. This would prove very advan- 
tageous to the people, and save them the expense and trouble of 
driving their cattle to a greater distance. The Kyle tryst, held in 
the vicinity of Bonar Bridge, forty miles beyond Inshnadamph, is 
the nearest cattle-market at present.* 

Lochinver is the only place deserving the name of a village. In 
it are some good houses, shops, and several tradesmen. In the 
immediate vicinity is a manufactory, for the preserving of butcher- 
meat, fish, and vegetables, which affords our sailors, and others, 
the luxury of fresh meat, whilst they are hundreds of leagues out 
at sea. It is carried on under the auspices of Mr Macdonald, an 
extensive and enterprising sheep-farmer. Regular employment is 
thus given to a number of tradesmen and labourers. 

Means of Communication^ S^c. — In this village, also, is a post- 

* Since writing the above a cattle-market has been established, and is likely to 
prove a permanent benefit. 



ASSYNT. 115 

office. There is another in the immediate neighbourhood of the 
church. The mails arrive regularly twice a-week. This is one of 
the. greatest improvements imaginable. A letter or newspaper 
from London we have the fifth day. In connection with the post- 
office, I am naturally led to notice our excellent roads. Nothing 
has so much contributed to the external improvement of the coun- 
try as these, by which this interesting district, till lately inaccessible^ 
and comparatively unknown, has been opened up to the public ; and 
thus, advantages secured to the inhabitants, which our ancestors 
would have deemed impossible. This improvement is attributable, 
in a great measure, to the Noble proprietors, and, were there no 
other benefit conferred on it, Assynt, on this account, owes a last-' 
ing debt of gratitude to the late excellent Duke of Sutherland. 
The length of road constructed from Aultnacaelgach to Store, in- 
cluding branches to Unapool and Inverkirkig, exceeds forty miles. 
To this may be added several miles of bye roads for the exclusive 
benefit of the tenantry. There is a small convenient harbour at 
Lochinver, where a pier has been erected. There are some other 
harbours, or rather creeks, at Nedd, Oldney, and Ardvar, all ly- 
ing on the north side of the point of Store, which afford shelter and 
anchorage. 

Saving^ Bank. — There was a savings' bank established about 
four years ago, and it is now in full operation. It has already 
proved very beneficial. It is under the patronage of the Suther- 
land family, who encourage industry by giving a higher rate of in- 
terest than the banks do, for all sums not exceeding L.20 Sterling. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated within nine 
miles of the southern boundary of the parish — a situation extreme- 
ly inconvenient for the people. The great bulk of the population 
dwell at distances from the church, varying from twelve to eighteen 
miles. The intervening population is very small. The church was 
built upwards of sixty years ago, but was re-slated and seated about 
twenty-five years ago. It is seated for 260 or 280 sitters. It is 
small, but comfortable. There are two other regular preaching 
stations, where the minister has to officiate, viz. Lochinver, distant 
fourteen' miles, to which there is a good road leading; and Kyle- 
side, nearly the same distance, but without any road at all. In 
the former district there is preaching once in the three weeks ge- 
nerally, or once a month at farthest ; in the other, once in the six 
or seven weeks. At Lochinver there is a pretty good house built 
by subscription, to which the late Duke, and the Duchess- Coun- 



Il6 SUTHERLAND. 

tess of Sutherland largely contributed* It is only partially seated 
as yet. It is also used as a General Assembly school-house dur- 
ing the week. In the Kyle side public worship has to be perform- 
ed in the open air, however inclement the weather. Strong appli- 
cations for additional accommodation in both districts have been 
made to the Religious Instruction Commissioners, but hitherto 
without success. There is a Government or Parliamentary church 
at Store, built in 1829. To this is attached a population of 1403, 
leaving upwards of 1700 scattered over a vast extent of inaccessible 
surface, as has already been described. 

In order to carry on pastoral superintendence properly, a minis- 
ter is required at Lochinver, and another at Kyleside. There are 
no missionaries in the parish. Public worship is well attebded by 
the people. The average number of communicants is 80, — a num- 
ber certainly small when compared with the population. The 
communion is regularly administered once a-year. 

The stipend amounts to L. 158, 6s. 8d., including the allowance 
for communion elements. The glebe is pretty extensive. It is 
chiefly adapted for grazing, and, at the rate at which lands in the 
neighbourhood are let, might fetch a rent of L.20 or L.25 Ster- 
ling per annum. The manse was built about fifteen years ago, but, 
from frequent storms, and its exposed situation, it very often re- 
quires repairs. The minister of the Parliamentary church at Store 
has an annual stipend of L. 120, paid by the Exchequer, and a 
glebe worth L. 7 a-year. 

There are no dissenting places of worship, and not above half 
a dozen Dissenters in the whole parish. 

There is a catechist who receives L.8 annually from the so- 
ciety in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and, with 
the exception of this pittance, he is remunerated solely by the 
people. There is no such thing as letting of church seats known 
amongst us. The average annual amount of church collections 
is L. 7, 18s. 

Education* — The schools in the parish are 7 in number, viz. the 
parochial school, three from the Society for Propagating Christian 
Knowledge, one from the Edinburgh Gaelic School Society, one 
from the Glasgow Gaelic School Society, and one from the General 
Assembly's Education Committee. Besides these, in various remote 
districts the people club together to provide a teacher for their 
children, during the winter and spring months. None of these 
schools are endowed except the parochial one. In it the teacher's 



ASSYNT. 117 

salary is L.25; the General Assembly's teacher, L.25 ; the Society 
for Propagating Christian Knowledge give L. 15 to their teachers; 
and the Glasgow Society, L. 12. All these teachers are entitled 
to demand fees, which privilege is not of much advantage to them, 
as far as money is concerned. Many of the people, however, 
make some remuneration, by supplying the teacher with provisions 
and fuel. The Edinburgh Gaelic School Society allow their teach- 
ers a salary of L.25, without the liberty of exacting fees. These 
schools are pretty well attended from the beginning of November 
till the end of March. The branches taught are, reading in Gae- 
lic and English, writing, arithmetic, &c. ; a very few are learning 
Latin. There is much need that the system of education amongst 
us should be improved, and the qualification of teachej^s raised. 
At the same time, we would acknowledge the obligations under 
which we lie to the charitable and religious associations above 
named. The Bible is read daily in all our schools, and attention 
paid to the religious instruction of the pupils. 

A reading club has been instituted, and promises well. 

There is no jail. 

Poor. — The number of poor annually relieved, (exclusive of the 
Stoer district,) 73. Amount annually expended in their relief, 
L. 13, 15s. Amount for that purpose arising from church collec« 
tions, L. 7, 12s. Amount from other sources, L. 6, 3s. The poor 
are divided into three classes, and get respectively 4s., 2s. 6d., and 
2s. each. 

Akhotues. — There is a competent number of public houses li- 
censed, and all others are strictly prohibited the selling of ardent 
spirits. In this respect a decided change for the better has taken 
place. 

Fuel. — Peats are universally used, and much difficulty is expe* 
rienced in seasoning them, arising from the excessive rains with 
which we are often deluged. 

Since writing the foregoing Account, Her Grace the Duchess- 
Countess of Sutherland has been removed from this world ; and 
her titles and estates have devolved upon Her Grace's eldest son, 
the present Duke, who has become twenty-second Earl of Suther- 
land. 

To the late Duchess, the parish of Assynt owed much. She 
uniformly manifested a warm interest in the welfare of its inhabi- 
tants ; and it is evident they evinced a hereditary and respectful 



118 SUTHERLAND. 

attachment to her Grace, who, during the singularly long period 
of seventy-three years, retained possession of the most ancient title 
in Europe. We look forward with conBdence to the present No- 
ble proprietor for a continuation of that kindness, which, for ages, 
characterized the Sutherland family. 

Draum up November 1637. 
Revised JIarch 1840. 



PARISH OF EDDERACHILLIS. 

PRBSBTTERT OF TONGUB, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. GEORGE TULLOCH, MINISTER.* 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Extent — The parish of Edderachillis is situated on the north-west 

coast of the county of Sutherland, along the shores of the Atlantic, 
being a portion of the Reay country, commonly called ^^ Duthaich'' 
mhuyAoidfu" Its extreme length, from north to souths is 25 
miles, by an average breadth from west to east towards the inte- 
rior of 7 miles, making 175 square miles, equal to 112,000 acres 
or thereby. In this is included the district of Keanlochbervie, 
some time ago disunited from the parish of Edderachillis, and erect- 
ed into a separate parish qtwad aacra^ under act of Parliament 5 
Geo. IV. cap. 90. 

Edderachillis was part of the barony of Skelbo. It was disponed 
by Hugo Freskyn de Moravia, ancestor of the Duke of Sutherland, 
1186-1203, to his brother. Bishop Gilbert Moray, who in 1235 
disponed it to his brother Richard Moray of Culbyn. About 1440, 
an heiress, Egidia Moray, carried it into the family of Kinnaird of 
Kinnaird. In 1515, Andrew Kinnaird disponed it to John Mac- 
kay of Edderachillis, son of Mackay of Strathnaver, the superiority 
remaining with the Earls of Sutherland. The purchase of 1829 
restored it to the Sutherland family. 

Name. — The name is Celtic, the orthography and pronunciation 
being Eadar^da-chaolasj literally signifying between two friths or 
inlets of the sea, which can be readily reconciled to its geographical 

• Drawn up by A. Stewart, Esq. 



BDDBRACHILLIS. 119 

positioii, Kylesku separating it from Assynt on the south ^west, 
and the Kyle of Laxford,* in the ancient division, on the north* 
east, although in modern times it extends to Gualin Hill. 

Boundaries. — It is bounded on the south, by Kylesku, Loch 
Glencoul, parish of Assyntj and some of Creich ; on the west, by 
the Atlantic ocean ; od the south, by the parish of Durness ; and 
on the east, partly by Durness also, and partly by the parish of 
Lairg. 

Figure^ General Appearance, and Natural Divisions. — Its figure 
is irregular, intersected with arms of the sea, and from the top of 
one of the mountains, presenting a checquered appearance of lakes, 
glens, rivers, and ravines. To view it from sea, at the distance of 
some miles from the coast, it is allowed to be particularly like Nor- 
way, affording an unbounded field for contemplation to the admirers 
of nature, in consequence of its sublime scenery and striking Alpine 
character. 

*' Stranger ! if e*er thine ardent steps have traced 

The northern realms of ancient Caledon, 

Where the proud queen of wilderness hath placed, 

By lake and cataract, her lonely throne ; 

Suhlime hut sad delight thy soul hath known. 

Gazing on pathless glen and mountain high, 

Listing where from the cliffs the torrent thrown, 

Mingle their echoes with the eagle's cry. 

And with the sounding lake, and with the roaming sky, 

'Tis known amid the pathless wastes of Reay.*' 

The parish is naturally divided by arms of the sea into the three 
following divisions, 1. Scourie division, situated between Loch 
Glendhu and Loch I^axford. 2. ** Ceathramh-garhh^^ between 
Loch Laxford and Loch Inchard; and 3, Ashare. The name 
of the first of those divisions cannot be traced to any particular 
origin, whilst that of the other^two may be ascribed to the natural 
appearance of the localities, — " Ceathramh-garbh,^* in Gaelic signi- 
fying a rough section of a country ; a term applicable in reality to 
this division ; and Ashare, or " FaS'4.hire^ with the " JF" silent, 
signifying arable land, or land capable of producing corn. 

Mountains. — The mountains demanding particular notice are 
those of Beinne-Leothaid, Beinne-Stac, Beinne-Stroim, Arkle, 
and the south-west range of the Reay forest to the summit of 
Toinne-Bheinne, Meal Horn, Sabhal-mhoir and Mille-Rinidh, 
with part of Beinne-Shith. The shape of Beinne-Stac is conical, 
Arkle rather level in the top, with a glassy or stalactical appear- 

* Meaning the salmon frith,— from Lax, a salmon, and^ri^, a frith. — See Jame- 
son*8 Dictionary 



120 SIJTHERI.AND.. 

Bficej eiSpeciaUy after rain ; each of which, as well as the forest 
range^ are close to dOOO feet above the level of the sea. 

Lakes. — The most remarkable lakes are Loch-moir and Loch- 
Stac; bat many others of considerable size might be mentioned. 

Rtveri.— Lazford and Inchard are the largast, with innumerable 
rivulets, all discharging themselves into the Atlantic. 

Islands. — A cluster of islands, of about twenty, lies between 
Edderachillis and Assynt, and to the north of Scourie Bay, the 
inland of Handa ; no less celebrated from its rising perpendicularly 
on the north*west side to a height of 600 feet or thereby ; than for 
the myriads of sea-fowl which migrate to its precipitous cliffs in the 
summer season to bring forth their young. The tourist would be 
as much gratified by a visit to this island as to Staffa, the charac- 
ter of its rocks being more singular and striking. The basaltic 
columns of Stafia are to be met with in more than in one part, but 
those of Handa are peculiar to it only, lying as they do horizontal- 
ly, and presenting an appearance as if all were built by the hand of 
man. 

Natural JHarSottr*.— The whole line of coast is much favoured 
in respect to harbours. They are sufficient to afford safe anchorage 
to the whole naval and mercantile shipping of Great Britain. 
Those of most note are lochs Laxford, Inchard, Badcall, Calva, 
Glendhu, and Sound of Handa. 

General Description. — Owing to the mountainous character of 
the country, the natural capabilities are chiefly confined to the 
rearing of sheep: the greater part is so appropriated. The sea 
coast is to be viewed of similar importance as regards the fisheries. 
The quantity of com is limited, and, in consequence of the rug- 
gedness and unevenness of the surface, it is raised by the force of 
manual labour, with scarcely any aid from the plough. 
' But what nature has denied in one way for the support of man 
is bestowed in another, by the unlimited quantities of fish which 
surround the coast, particularly the herrings : they formerly fre- 
quented it in great shoals in autumn, and still not unfrequcntly in 
summer. The pasture is of a healthy and sound quality. Such por- 
tions of the land as are under tillage are not of a bad quality, and 
yield fair returns. The rivers produce salmon, and the lakes are 
all well stocked with trout,— both of excellent quality. 

Meteorology, — The weather is changeable, and the prevailing 
winds are south and west The temperature cannot be reckoned 
cold, but the atmosphere, owing to the vapours from the Atlantic, 



EDDERACHILLIS. 121 

and the high bills attracting the clouds, is humid, and productive of 
rheumatic and Scrofulous affections, the latter often proving fatal. 
Heavy falls of snow occur, but are of short duration along the 
coast, although the higher grounds partially retain their coats till 
June. There are instances of great longevity and retention of phy- 
sical faculties. Small-pox made its appearance last season, but its 
progress, under Divine will, was soon arrested by the immediate 
and general application of cow-pox, attended to by a surgeon 
appointed for the purpose, at the expense of the Duke of Su- 
therland. Solar and lunar rainbows are not unfrequent; and a 
most striking view is that of the sun setting in summer, casting its 
rays in crimson hue across the bosom of the ocean. The aurora 
borealis or Northern Lights occasionally shew themselves, are 
extremely vivid, and, according to vulgar acceptation, " arrayed 
against each other in the order of a line of battle." Although 
we are not strangers to the terror of the thunder storm, seldom 
or ever any accidents are heard of; flashes of lightning are pe- 
riodically common about the commencement of each quarter. A 
rare, if not an unprecedented, phenomenon in this latitude, occurred 
in winter 1838, by an avalanche destroying no less than a herd of 
twelve deer; and such was the force of that terrific body, that it not 
only killed the animals on the spot, but when the forester found 
them, their bones were crushed to pieces. The fury of sea storms 
is often the cause of great alarm and damage, particularly in 
winter, and to the observer on shore is magnificently grand when 
they are from the north-west ; the noise of the billows of the At- 
lantic heaving against the rocks is tremendous, and only equalled 
by the height to which they are raised, known in some instances to 
be no less than about 600 feet against the precipitous rocks of 
Handa. Shipwrecks, however, are not so common as they were, 
owing to a lighthouse having been erected on Cape Wrath. 

Hydrography. — The most direct approach from the south to 
this parish is through a part of Assynt to Kylesku, at which there 
is a ferry between Edderachillis and Assynt, of 380 yards broad. 
The tide of this narrow inlet is extremely rapid, readily accounted 
for by the great expanse of sea on both sides ; from it two exten- 
sive lochs branch into the interior. Loch Glendhu on the left, and 
Loch Glencul on the right hand, — the former upwards of three 
miles long, by one and a-half broad, and the latter nearly five long, 
by one broad, — both of great depth, and no less celebrated for the 
quantity and quality of their herrings than for their singular wild- 

SUTHBRLAND. I 



122 SUTHERLAND. 

ness and romantic scenery, the hills rising on every side to a great 
height, and interspersed with formidable cliffs. The great arm 
of the sea forming this inlet on the west, juts in firom the ocean a 
distance of ten miles, and is commonly but erroneously called in 
the charts " Loch Assynt" To instance the importance of Loch 
Glendhu for herrings, so recently as the autumn of 1829, it was 
estimated that the value of herrings caught in it was L30,000 ; and 
it has been known that 100 herring busses have resorted to it at a 
time. The other harbours and sea lochs, already noticed, are pro- 
ductive of herrings and other varieties of fish, including shell-fish. 
To advert to the fresh water lakes, Loch-Moir and Loch-Stac 
are the two most conspicuous ; not only from their inlanc position, 
and as giving rise to the river Laxford, but as they form the con- 
fines of the great Reay Forest on the south-west. The former is 
five miles long by one broad ; the latter three long and two broad. 
Their water, rising from the bowels of the mountains, which are 
principally gneiss, quartz, and felspar, is particularly limpid and 
free of impurities. 

Good wholesome water is to be had in all parts, principally from 
perennial springs. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The characters and varieties that 
arise under those heads are neither numerous nor very important, 
as far as they have been yet discovered ; and did we enter on par- 
ticulars, too much space would necessarily be occupied. As a 
whole, Edderachillis is of the primitive and transition classes, and 
the ranges of mountains already mentioned, with little exception, 
consist of gneiss, various hornblende rocks, granite in vieins, and 
quartz rock. Limestone is met with on the sides of Lochs Glen- 
dhu, Glencul, and Loch-Moir. Hornblende slates are to be found 
round Scourie and at Kylestrome. Handa island is composed 
chiefly of red sandstone, the quality of which cannot be excelled 
for every description of architectural work. • 

Soil, — The soil along the coast and in the valleys, principal- 
ly recumbent on gneiss, is of various descriptions. The great- 
er part of the arable is a mixture of gravel and moss, fertiliz- 
ed by the application of sea-weed for manure, which imparts 
to the land a considerable portion of organic matter, and its 
alkaline properties neutralize the acid which the moss con- 
tains. The district of Ashare is better soil than the rest, being 
dark loam intermixed with sand, and the features of that section 
of the parish convey a belief that it has been earlier inhabited and 

4 



EDDERACHILLIS. 123 

cultivated than the rest The arable land of the island of Handa 
18 of a similar qualify. 

Zoology. — The domestic animals need not be enumerated under 
this head, as reference will be made to them in another part of 
this account. The wild animals common to the rest of the High- 
lands are to be met with. The 6rst to be noticed is the red-deer 
(Cervus elaphusjj and not inapplicably named the monarch of 
the forest In this country, where so much is done for preserv- 
ing and propagating his species, we are called upon to pav more 
than ordinary attention in delineating what has been done. The 
Reay forest, or Diru^moir, has had always a place amongst the 
principal forests in Scotland ; a character in this respect it main- 
tained for many generations, till within the last quarter of a cen- 
tury, when it gradually declined, owing to the introduction of 
sheep. Upon the expiry of the leases of such part of the forest as 
had been thus allotted for sheep, — the Duke of Sutherland has re- 
stored the whole to what it originally was, excluding sheep, and 
placing the range in charge of foresters solely for the preservation 
of deer. This not only amply provides for the animal most cha- 
racteristic of the country, and most conducive to the sportsman^s 
adventures, but also relieves the whole neighbouring sheep-walks 
of the greater part of the deer that roamed over them, the main- 
tenance of which was a considerable burden. The extent of terri- 
tory so exclusivcj^y laid off for deer cannot be less than 60,000 
acres, whereof the half is in this parish, and the rest in Durness, 
inhabited by some thousands of deer, and inferior as a forest to 
none in Scotland. Sir Robert Gordon, in his History of the Earl- 
dom of Sutherland, written in the year 1 630, gives the following 
account of the forest, viz. — " The halfe of the Diri-more, which 
lyes toward the north and north-west, doth appertein of late to 
Macky, by the Erie of Southerland, his gift and disposition. In 
the Diri-more, ther is a hill called Arkill ; all the deir that ar bred 
therein, or hant within the bounds of that hill, have forked taills, 
thrie incles long, whereby they are easailie known and decerned 
from all other deir." The description thus given of the deer hav- 
ing forked tails is still applicable. 

It may be added, that the Laxford affords angling for salmon 
and trout, not to be surpassed by any river in the north. 

The quadrupeds and birds are thus described in Sir Robert 
Gordon's work of 1630, and have since undergone very little 
change, vit. " All these forrests and schases are verie profitable for 



124 SUTHERLAND. 

feiding of bestiall, and delectable for hunting. They are full of 
reid-deir and roes, woulffs, foxes, wyld catts, brocks skuyrells, 
whittrets, weasels, otters, martrixes, hares, and fumarts. In these 
forrests, and in all this province, ther is great store of partridges, 
pluivers, capercalegs, blackwaks, m«refowls, heth-hens, swanes^ 
bewters, turtle-doves, herons, dowes, steares or stirlings, lair-igigh 
or knag, (which* is a foull lyke unto a paroket or parret, which 
maks place for her nest with her beck in the oak trie), duke, draig, 
widgeon, teale, wild-gouse, ringouse, routs, whaips, shot^whaips, 
woodcock, larkes, sparrows, snyps, blackburds or osills, meiveis, 
thrushes, and all other kinds of wild-foule and birds, which are to 
be had in any pairt of this kingdonae." From the above list, only 
the wolf and capercailzies need to be excluded, in order to make 
it nearly applicable to the present time. 

Birds. — These are, three species of the eagle, the royal, black 
mountain, and osprey or fish-eagle, — hawks, (various kinds,) — 
owls, cuckoos, black-cocks, ptarmigans, moorfowls, partridges, 
golden and gray plovers, woodcocks, snipes, starlings, sparrows^ 
thrushes, wagtails, swallows, kingfishers, rock, and wood, and 
sea pigeons, mavis, and landrails. Swans, wild geese, ducks, (dif- 
ferent kinds,) the great northern divers, scarts, solan-geese, cranes, 
gulls, and many other sea-fowls and birds of passage, frequent 
Handa in the summer months. 

Fishes, — These are, salmon, trout, char, herrinf, ling, cod, scate, 
turbot, flounder, haddock, halibut, mackerel, tusk, lythe, coalfish, 
dogfish, whiting, eel, silver-eyed fish, sunfish, and gurnards. In a 
country where the coast swarms with fish, some may have escaped 
notice, and others, perhaps, have not been discovered j for, so lately 
as December 1838, the writer transmitted to the Edinburgh College 
Museum, two very rare specimens recently found at Scourie. Pro- 
fessor Jameson gave them a place in the Museum, being presented 
by the lamented Duchess- Countess of Sutherland, and describes 
them thus : " Two specimens of fishes ; the smaller of the two is 
very rare, and is new to the Fauna of Scotland ; it is the Poor 
Cod of authors ; the other, or larger specimen, is the Ttimaculated 
Wrasse,*' 

Cetacea. — The cetaca frequenting the coast are, the whale and 
the porpoise : and the seal may be included. A very remarkable 
specimen as to size, measuring in length 8 feet 2 inches, was shot 
by Captain Granville Gower Loch, R.N. in 1837, in the sea be- 
tween Assynt and Edderachillis. 

3 



EDDERACHILLIS. 125 

Neither the whale nor the sunfish are captured on this coast ; 
the former seldom in any part of Scotland. The latter used to 
be taken in considerable numbers on the coasts of the islands of 
Harris and Barra, through the dexterity of the natives harpoon- 
ing them at sea. The liver alone yields oil to the amount of 360 
gallons at an average. 

Crustacea and ShelUJish are to be had in great varieties and of 
superior quality, consisting of lobsters, crabs, oysters, mussels, 
cockles, welks, and limpets, also pearls in the rivers. The lob- 
sters are brought in large quantities to London, and allowed to be 
the best exposed in Billingsgate. 

Beasts and Birds of Prey and Vermin. — On this subject it 
may be remarked, that wolves were at one time numerous, and, to 
avoid their ravages in raising bodies from the graves, the popula- 
tion had recourse to the Island of Handa as their place of inter* 
ment. This is the tradition of the country, and it is believed to 
be well founded. The destructiveness of the fox amongst the 
sheep is now most to be complained of. The otter amongst the 
salmon, and the common rat and mouse, could all be well dispen- 
sed with. No country produces finer specimens of the black 
mountain eagle, so hostile to lambs; ravens and crows also com- 
mit depredations. 

Reptiles. — These are, the adder {Anguis Eryx)^ lizard, toad, 
and frog. The firet is injurious. The following instance is worthy 
of notice : Some years ago, Donald Morrison, tenant, A share, 
was stung ; and the effects gave rise to apprehensions of imme- 
diate death. When in the greatest agony, the captain of a strange 
vessel landed on the coast, who prescribed the following singular 
cure : a young chicken to be split or cut up alive, and instantly 
applied to the stung part. After the same treatment had been re- 
peated by cutting up alive and applying nine chickens without in- 
termission, the patient was relieved ; each chicken which was ap- 
plied indicating by its swelling that it had absorbed poison. The 
individual who underwent this treatment recovered, is still alive, 
and enjoys perfect health. 

Botany. — The field for the botanist is rather limited. Profes- 
sor Graham remarks, that the Luziila arcuata has been found only 
in three stations in Britain, the summit of the mountains at the 
source of the Dee, Benmore in Assynt, and Fionnbhein, ranging 
into this parish. 

There are appearances of the whole country having been at 



126 SUTHERLAND. 

some period covered with wood, in the remains of trees, principally 
fir, which are found in the mosses. The natural wood now stand- 
ing is limited to about 600 acres, almost birch, along the banks of 
Loch-Moir, Loch-Stac, and at Badna bay. Wood has not been 
planted, with the exception of a very small portion round the fac- 
tor's house at Scourie, and has given way owing to its proximity 
to the ocean. There can be no doubt, that all kinds indigenous 
to the British Isles would grow in the interior, if they were on a 
large scale, and properly attended to. Apple, also pear trees, 
and small fruit bushes, as also culinary vegetables, thrive well in 
the garden at Scourie. 

II. — Civil History. 
Nothing is known of Edderachillis as a parish, earlier than 

1726, the date of its erection, — except that, before that time, it 
formed part of the parish of Durness, and was disjoined on an ap- 
plication to the General Assembly by the heritor. Lord Reay, and 
Mr John Mackay, minister of Durness, and endowed by a fund 
arising from the teinds, and a general subscription over Scotland. 
The district, however, occupies rather a conspicuous place in the 
annals of the Mackay's country. A branch of the Mackays, at so 
early a period as 1550, took possession of the territory of Ekidera- 
chillis by displacing the Macleods, and planted themselves at 
Scourie, under the title of " Mackays of Scouri^" The unjusti- 
fiable means to which they had recourse to procure this settle- 
ment, is defined in the last Statistical Account by the Rev. Mr 
Falconer. A repetition of it here is unnecessary. 

Amongst the descendants of the Mackays of Scourie, were men 
eminent for piety and chivalry. The history of one of them in 
particular claims attention, whose character merits admiration 
for its many virtues. This was Lieutenant- General Hugh Mac- 
kay of Scourie, the famous Commander-in-Chief of the time of 
King William and Mary. He was born in 1640 ; the account of 
his life, published by his descendant, Mr John Mackay of Rock- 
field, is well worthy of a perusal. He fought against Dundee at 
the battle of Killicrankie ; and although the fortunes of that day 
proved adverse, he showed great military skill in his retreat, and 
fully regained any character it might have^ been supposed he had 
lost, by his great success in Ireland, particularly at the battle of 
the Shannon, where he displayed much military skill and bravery. 
Many other great exploits could be mentioned. He was to have 
been rewarded by a peerage, under the title of " Earl of Scourie ;'' 



EDDERACHILLIS. 127 

but this was prevented by the alleged intrigue of his rival, Mac- 
kenzie of Coigacb or Cromarty, This great naan's career termi- 
nated in 1692; he fell shortly after the siege of Namur, where he 
commanded the British division of the grand army. 

Parochial Register* — There are no traces of a parochial record 
having been kept prior to 1819. From that period, births and 
marriages have been carefully recorded. 

Antiquities. — Little can be stated on this head. At Kylestrome 
there are the remains of a Danish fort tolerably entire : and at 
Scourie there are still visible the remains of a similar building, as 
well as of tumuli. At Badnabay, also, there is the appearance of 
a Druidical circle of stones. 

Laiid-oumers. — The Duke of Sutherland is sole proprietor of 
the parish, — into whose possession, with the rest of the Reay coun- 
try, it came in 1829: it was then almost in a state of nature, with- 
out a foot of road or other improvements,— the most commendable 
thing about it being the excellent deportment of its natives as to 
religion, and in respect of moral and social order. 

RoadSf Sfc. — The aspect of the country has been since changed 
by the construction of roads, erection of inns, and farm-houses. 
These improvements extended over the whole county of Sutherland. 
In the aggregate, no less than 480 miles of roads have been made, 
greatly by the means, and wholly through the instrumentality, of 
bis Grace. Thcf portion of these roads confined to this parish is 
32 miles in extent; and three inns have been erected in it solely 
at the Duke's expense. 

Means of Communication. — It appears from the former Statisti- 
cal Account, that there was no regular post communication with 
the south, — a circumstance which caused great complaint in these 
days ; and the only way of receiving letters was by a few of the pa- 
rishioners contributing to send a runner once a-fortnight to Tongue, 
to which place there was a communication from the south round 
by Caithness, — the difference between the direct line and this route 
being at least 150 miles. Instead of this, there is now a post- 
office at Scourie, having intercourse, by means of a mail-gig twice 
a- week, with Golspie, where there is a daily post to all parts of 
the kingdom. The internal communication was equally defective, 
— the intercourse being carried on by boating, and on unshod 
ponies, which scrambled over the precipices with wonderful safety 
and agility. Few accidents arose from either. The last was the 
case^of Captain William Scobie of Ardvar, who was drowned in 



128 SUTHERLAND. 

the sound of Handa, exceedingly lamented on account of his many 
excellent qualities. 

Buildings. — In a country like this, almost entirely pastoral, 
many extensive buildings are not required. It is a marked fea- 
ture in its character, since the succession of the Duke of Suther- 
land, that new farm-houses and inns have displaced the old, — in- 
troducing a new era in this district, and illustrating the liberality 
and ability of the new landlord. 

III. — Po PULATI ON. 

The population in 1792, according to the last Statistical Ac- 
count, was 1024; and the last census makes it 1965, giving the 
striking increase of 941, notwithstanding that many families emi- 
grated. 

Character of the People^ 8fc. — The population is domiciled along 
the coast in townships or hamlets, each family possessing a cer- 
tain portion of land. Their houses are of a better description than 
the ordinary run of Highland houses, and amongst them are a few 
slated cottages. The people are moral, hospitable, and very mind- 
ful of their poor. They are particularly honest ; and hardly ever 
a case of theft occurs, even when the wants of the population are 
great. For example ; a ship laden with com was stranded at 
Loch Laxford in 1838; and though the vessel and cargo, in the 
confusion of the shipwreck, was laid open to pillage, — to the cre- 
dit of the people be it told, nothing was stolen ; a self-denial 
scarcely to be met with anywhere, under similar circumstances. 
Gaelic is the vernacular tongue, and generally spoken : the great- 
er number of the young speak English also ; and the few south 
country shepherds amongst them speak English only. 

Illegitimate births seldom occur, — there having been only four 
within the last three years. 

The names most' prevalent, are Morrison, Mackay, Macleod, 
and Mackenzie. The men are athletic; and such of them as 
were in the army made first-rate soldiers. Their features are 
marked, and, although not particularly well favoured, indicate a 
bold and resolute character. The women are comely. The co- 
lour of the hair is generally light, and the complexion rather fair. 
In the article of dress, they are not extravagant. On Sundays 
and holidays, they are neatly and cleanly attired. The elderly 
people dress in cloth of their own manufacture. Such as repair to 
the south and Caithness herring-fishing, adopt, to a considerable 
extent, the lowland dress and habits. 



Ur^nuw iuOuriuiJi'U*. 








ffi 



EDDERAGHILLIS. 129 

IV. — Industry. 
AgricuUiire and Fishing. — The productive employments of the 
people consist in tilling the ground and fishing, mih the various 
operations attendant on both. In a country where there is not an 
immediate market for the sale of fish, and for affording the neces- 
saries of life, the combination of these employments is found to 
answer well. The operation of laying down the crop commences 
about the middle of March, and finishes in May. Harvest begins 
in August, and ends in October. The crops raised are, potatoes, 
bear or bigg, and oats. In the absence of the plough, the imple- 
ment used in laying down the crop is the common garden spade and 
Cas^rmn. A description of the latter having been so repeated- 
ly given in other accounts of Highland parishes, it need not be 
presented here. Since the construction of the roads, many of the 
tenants have carts, which are in all about forty: these were un- 
known before the Duke acquired the estate. 

Soon after the sowing is completed, the most enterprising com- 
mence the early herring fishing; and such as have large boats, in the 
latter end of July, on the Caithness coast, whence they return in the 
beginning of September. Their occupation in winter is promiscuous, 
— thrashing corn, attending to their cattle, making, repairing, and 
trimming herring nets for the ensuing season — the females spin- 
ning and knitting. The rate charged for spinning hemp is 6d. 
per pound, but in the neighbouring district of Assynt, Sd. ; and 
it not unusually happens that a reckoning is kept amongst the 
members of the family, between sisters and brothers, of the quan- 
tity spun for herring nets, and closed by payment. This exact- 
ness cannot be too highly extolled, as it inculcates economy and 
value for money, so very desirable to be observed by all classes in 
the Highlands. Lobster-fishing is also carried on by a London 
company, who employ a number of the natives in procuring the 
lobsters, which they carry off alive in well-smacks to the Thames. 
This fishing commences in April, and ends in October. 

The last to be noticed is the salmon-fishery, commencing in 
March and closing in August. 

Kelp. — The manufacturing of kelp in former years gave employ- 
ment to a number of the people. Advancement in the science of 
chemistry disclosed substitutes for kelp, which have entirely thrown 
it out of the market, — a result not to be regretted, as the sea 
weed from which it was made is the manure that Nature has set 
apart for the land. Although kelp yielded a certain revenue to 



130 SUTHERLAND. 

a landlord, its manufacture retarded agricultural improvements, 
and thereby curtailed the quantity of produce which the land would 
otherwise yield for the maintenance and comfort of the popula- 
tion. 

Produce. — In order to bring all under one view, a table is here 
presented, showipg the number of men employed, the amount of 
stock and capital invested, and annual returns ; with a comparison 
betwixt the particulars of this and the last Statistical report of the 
parish. 

Live-stock. — The breed of sheep on the large farms is a pure 
Cheviot, to ^hich great attention is paid. The sheep in the 
hands of small tenants is a cross between the native breed of 
small black-faced sheep and the Cheviot, and of late years has 
been much improved. The breed of black-cattle, comparatively 
speaking, is not very good, and much might be done towards its 
improvement. ' 

Before the hills were taken up for sheep stocks, the country 
was deservedly famed for the breed of Highland ponies or gamms^ 
extremely hardy, and some of them living to the age of thirty. The 
present Orkney breed is in a great degree descended from them, 
having at one time been sold hence in considerable droves. 

Manufactories. — No establishment of this kind exists, and there 
is rather a scarcity of artisans and mechanics. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre can- 
not be exactly specified, as each lot or portion has a share of 
pasture land attached to it, held in common by the tenants of the 
respective townships. The following may convey an idea of the 
extent and nature of these holdings. The rents payable by each 
small tenant are from L. 2 to L. 5. To illustrate, we will advert 
to a L. 3 rent, which is a very common one. In a favourable sea- 
son, the crop produced, together with milk and fish, supports a 
family of four for eight months. Three small Highland cows, 
eight sheep, and one horse, form the stocking. 

These holdings, with their supply of fuel, however limited they 
may appear, — in a country where fish is abundant, enable the fru- 
gal occupants to live moderately well. 

Wages. — The wages of carpenters, smiths, masons, and tailors 
are about 2s. 6d. per day. Farm-servants, besides board, receive 
L. 7 yearly ; maids, L. 3, lOs. Mr Falconer states the wages in 
1792 to have been, for a farm-servant, L.2, and for a maid-ser- 
vant, 17s. 8d. yearly — besides perquisites. 



EDDERACHILLIS. 






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132 SUTHERLAND. 

It is to be regretted that the cod and ling fisheries are not more 
prosecuted ; the natives are excellent herring fishers, but too lax 
as to the other : indeed, as yet, little or nothing has been done, 
in applying skill or capital towards the advancement of this im- 
portant branch of industry. 

The island of Handa is tenanted by twelve families. Besides 
fishing, they have recourse to other employment of a very ha- 
zardous character, by resorting to the daring enterprise of going a- 
fowling among the precipitous rocks round the island, from whence 
they bring, at the imminent risk of their lives, a vast quantity of 
sea fowls and eggs, to be used by them for food, and the feathers 
to be disposed of to their mainland neighbours. In this perilous 
avocation, some have fallen over the rocks, and been instantly kill- 
ed. It is curious enough, that they have established nothing less 
than Royalty amongst them, in the person of the eldest widow on 
the island, who is designed Queen ; and her prerogative is recog- 
nized not only by the islanders, but by visitors from the mainland. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Ecclesiastical State. — The whole population is of the Church 

of Scotland, and there are no Dissenting or Seceding families in 

the parish. There are two churches ; one at Badcall, and another at 

Keanlochbervie, both commodious, and in excellent repair. 

The stipend is the minimum, L. 150, whereof L.103, 6s. 8d is 
paid by the Exchequer, and the balance, L.46, 13s. 4d., by the he- 
ritor. The extent of the glebe is about 320 acres, and its yearly 
value L.30, or thereby. The manses and offices at Badcall and 
Keanlochbervie respectively are recent erections, the former built 
by the heritor in 1835, and the latter by Government in 1828. 

Education, — The schools are the parochial school at Scouqe, 
and a school at Ashare, from the Society for Propagating Christ- 
ian Knowledge. There is no regular Sabbath school kept The 
attendance at both schools is considerable It is believed that a 
parochial school in connection with Keanlochbervie church will be 
soon established. In some of the remote hamlets, there is private 
tuition in winter. The yearly amount of the parochial schoolmas- 
ter's salary is L. 35, 17s. 9d. : the school fees and other emolu- 
ments are trifling. A reading club has been recently established 
at Scourie. 

Savings Bank. — There is one Savings bank at Scourie. The 
whole amount invested is L. 443, Vs. 6d., and the operations are 
very limited. 



KII.DONAN. 133 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is about 40, and the allotment to each 
yearly is from 3s. to li>s« The average amount of annual contri- 
butions for the poor is about L.20, whereof there is from church 
collections L. 14, and from the heritor L.6. No legal assessment 
has been imposed* 

Fuel. — This article, so very necessary for the existence and 
comfort of man, nature has provided in great abundance. Tracts 
of moss are open to all, and at no other expense than that of cut« 
ting the turf, and drying it by exposure to the action of the at- 
mosphere. 

JuffUit 1840. 



PARISH OF KILDONAN- ♦ 

PRESBYTBRY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. JAMES CAMPBELL, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Namtj Sfc. — The name Kildonan was spelt Keldurunachj in a 
charter by Gilbert Murray, who was Bishop of Caithness between 
the years 1222 and 1245 ; and in the seventeenth century, it was 
written Kildonnand. This name was originally confined to, as it 
still is the distinctive name of, the township where the church and 
manse were, at a very remote period, erected, and where they still 
stand ; and upon the division of the country into parishes, the 
name of the ancient church was used as that of the extensive tract 
of the county of Sutherland, now forming the parish of Kildonan* 
Many of the early monks and other ecclesiastics, who were .scatter* 
ed throughout Scotland after Dioclesian's persecution, appear to 
have penetrated into Sutherland, and hence, those places in which 
their cells and residences were fixed, have been distinguished by 
the prefix of Kil from Cella^'^ a cell or chapel, which is found in 

* Drawn up by George Sutherland Taylor, Esq. Golspie. 

f Almost all the words now used in the Gaelic languast connected with religious 
establishments, have been borrowed from the old monkish Latin used by the firtt 
Christian miaaionaries in the Highlands, to denote new offices and terms not previous- 
ly known. Thus the Gaelic of church is Eaglah, from the Latin EccUtia ; the 
Gaelic of Bbhop is Eatbi^f from Epitcoput ; the Gaelic of abbot is Abb, from 



134 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

many of the names of places in Sutherland, as well as in other 
parts of Scotland, Thus Kildanan is derived from Kil, a cell, and 
Durun or Donauj the proper name of its original inhabitant, whose 
memory has been handed down by tradition, with great veneration, 
and who is distinguished as Saint Donan. The leading valley, 
and most important part of the parish, is, however, as frequently 
called Strath Helmsdale^ (disregarding the tautology of Strath and 
Dale,) as it is called the Strath of Kildonan ; but in Gaelic it is 
alone known by the name of Stra' Iligh^ while the river is called 
Aven-Iliffhj — and the village of Helmsdale, at the mouth of the 
river, Bun^Iligh^ — the root or lower end of the IligK All this 
strengthens the belief that the river Helmsdale is the " Hiusjlu' 
men" or river Hie of Ptolemy, who places that river on the present 
east coast of Sutherland, and close to " Verubium promontorium,^* 
which is unquestionably the Ord of Caithness. The name Hie is 
therefore older than that of Helmsdale, which must have been in* 
troduced, long subsequent to the time of Agricola, by the north« 
men, whose inroads and adventures on the coasts of Sutherland 
and Caithness, during the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth centuries, 
are so often narrated in the northern Sagas, and historically ar> 
ranged by Torfaeus. Kildonan^ again, is believed to have origi- 
nated dfter the settlement of Christian missionaries in the north of 
Scotland, and is, therefore, in all probability, of more recent origin 
than the name Helmsdale. 

Extent^ Boundaries^ and Topographical Appearances. — This pa- 
rish is altogether inland. It may be said to be divided by a great 
leading strath, into which other less important straths or mountain 
passes open ; and, accordingly, the former account of the parish 
states, that ^^ it resembles the form of a tree, stretching out at the 
top or height of the parish into branches." This is so far appli- 
cable, that the great and leading strath of Kildonan or Helmsdale, 
below the church, being in the centre of the narrowest and lowest 
corner of the parish, may be compared to the trunk of the tree, 
and the smaller straths or glens, called Tilny, Free, and Achnahow, 
opening into it at obtuse angles on the west side, and those of Suis- 
gill and Kinbrace on the east side, may not inaptly be considered 
as the side-branches. Kildonan is bounded on the east by part of 
the county of Caithness, having the picturesque and towering 

Abbot ; the Gaelic of priest is Sofforfy from Sacerdot ; and the Gaelic of a chapel, or 
the primitive resting place of a Christian missionary, was Cillf pronounced KU9 from 
CeUa^ a chapel or cellar. 



KILDONAN« 135 

peaks of the Morven Hills, not far distant from the boundary in 
that direction. The north boundary of the parish of Loth, run- 
ning from the top of the ridge terminating in the Ord of Caithness, 
to the westward, and along the elevated summits of Ben-vallich, 
and the high range of hills to Craigaboddich, intervenes between 
Kildonan as its southern line of march, and the German Ocean, to 
which the nearest point of the parish is distant about two miles. On 
the west, the line of mountain tops from Craigaboddich, along the 
centre of the high table-land at the head of Skinsdale, to the great 
mountain Ben-Ormin, and thence to Cromolt, near the head of 
Strathnaver, separate Kildonan from the parishes of Clyne and 
Farr ; and on the north, an irregular march crossing the great 
Ballach between the valleys of Strathnaver and Kildonan, and 
thence going over the top of Ben Griam-beg, and the highest part 
of Knockfin, to the county of Caithness, divides the parish from 
part of Farr, and the southern part of the parish of Reay. The 
extreme length of the parish, either from Cromolt or the Balloch 
near Ben Griam, to the top of the Ord of Caithness, is fully 24 
miles, in a direct line. The breadth varies considerably, being 
towards the south end of the parish from 5 to 10 miles, and to- 
wards the north end from 12 to 17 miles, in straight lines. The 
northern division of the parish is all elevated ground, and exposed 
to the unbroken sweep of every blast and storm that rage amidst 
the highest mountains of Sutherland and Caithness. The general 
aspect of this part of the parish is characterized by several high 
and massy mountains; some elevated table-land, of considerable ex- 
tent, thickly covered with heather and alpine plants ; and several 
lakes, of which four are of a large size ; but their shores and the 
country immediately surrounding them being in general tame, 
the expanse of their waters cannot be said to afford those enchant- 
ing and remarkable views for which other lakes in the Highlands, 
encircled by a wild variety of precipitous crags, towering pinnacles, 
and verdant glades, are so justly celebrated. The southern part 
of the parish may be said to consist of two parallel ranges of 
mountains, between which lies the very beautiful valley of Helms- 
dale or Kildonan. This valley, which extends throughout the 
whole length of the parish, varies in breadth from one and-a-half 
to three miles, between the bases of the steep sides of the strath. 
The river Helmsdale, a large and very handsome stream, which 
may be classed among the second rate rivers of Scotland, occupies 
the centre of the valley, and rolls down, with many graceful 



136 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

curves in its course, amidst holms and haughs of the brightest 
verdure, and occasionally through birch*covered plats that partially 
conceal some of the bends and reaches of the stream, until it enters 
the German Ocean, at the thriving fishing village of Helmsdale^ 
which is situate in the adjoining parish of Loth. The highest 
mountains are at the boundaries of the adjoining parishes, and 
Ben Griam-more, one of these mountains, is nearly 2000 feet high. 
All the other lofty hills are deeply indented by headlong torrents^ 
which often transversely cut the highest ranges of the hills almost 
down to their bases, and thus form many wild chasms, and great 
and abrupt inequalities of the surface. A great proportion, how- 
ever, of the uplands is superior and safe pasture ground, with occa- 
sional large tracts of moss ; and the soil of the haughs, along the 
lower parts of the river Helmsdale, is formed of deposits of mossy 
earth, mixed with particles of decomposed conglomerate rock and 
sand. 

Meteorology. — Notwithstanding the inland situation and moun- 
tainous character of this parish, the climate in the valley of Kil- 
donan does not vary much from that of the coast-lying parishes of 
Sutherland ; but the extremes of cold and heat are perhaps greater 
than along the sea coast. In winter, the high parts of Kildonan 
are often visited with snow, when rain alone falls in the less inland 
districts ; and when there is a general and great fall of snow, it is 
heavier, and lies longer in the interior than on the coast. The 
winter storms are also of greater violence on the exposed high 
grounds, and are there generally most tempestuous and severe. 
Frost appears early in autumn, even in the sheltered strath, and 
frequently, at that period of the year, the dawn of day, which is 
accompanied by, and discloses a slight hoar frost, formed during 
the night-time, is followed by a brilliant meridian sun, which is op- 
pressive by its heat The east wind is the coldest, and with it 
the heaviest falls of rain occur. Of late years, the aurora borealis, 
or *' the merry dancers," as the meteor is called here, has been 
unusually frequent, chiefly from the month of July to January. 
It is often seen moving in upright luminous lines from west to 
east, which, when they attain their greatest brilliancy, suddenly 
become dim, and, as if formed of revolving columns, with alter- 
nate bright and dark sides, these shining lines again suddenly ap- 
pear with an irregular glimmer, which increases in silvery bright- 
ness, until it becomes a light of great splendour. This alternate 
fading and reappearing of these coruscations continues until what 



KILDONAN. 137 

appear to be the revolving columns, disappear in the eastern ho* 
rizon^ under the earth's shade. 

This parish is particularly healthy, and there are no distem- 
pers which can be said to be prevalent among the inhabitants. 
Rheumatic pains sometimes affect aged people ; but these pro- 
bably arise from sudden changes from heat to cold, and from 
inattention to the due regulation of their clothing in the win- 
ter season. Fevers have been of late years unknown; and in 
183^, when malignant cholera raged at Helmsdale, at the foot 
of the strath, and within nine miles of the church of Kildonan, 
no case of that mysterious and fatal disease occurred in the pa- 
rish. Consumption, ague, and cutaneous eruptions are all un- 
known. Apothecaries' drugs are almost never called for ; and the 
inhabitants generally, having a sufficiency of substantial food, com- 
fortable dwelling-houses, and being of temperate and active habits, 
enjoy uninterrupted health, and a buoyancy of spirits which gives 
promise of long life. 

Hydrography, — The river Helmsdale or Hie is the leading 
stream in the parish, through which it runs a course of upwards of 
twenty miles. It receives its waters from some lakes in the upper 
parts of the parish, and from many mountain-streams and torrents 
which swell its stream in all parts of its course. After leaving 
this parish, the river has a* run of more than two miles in the pa< 
rish of Loth, until it enters the sea at Helmsdale, where its mouth 
forms the harbour of that village. The upper district of Kildonan 
is remarkable for the number and size of its lakes. Loch-na-cuen 
is one of the largest of them, and is ornamented with two or three 
small islands, and several winding bays. It has char and other 
varieties of trout, but is considered rather an indifferent angling 
lake. Loch'leam-na^lavan lies between the two mountains, Ben 
Griam-more and Ben Griam-beg, and has trout of different va- 
rieties, of the largest size of any lake in th^ district. There are 
also a great many char in its waters, but they are of a small size. 
This is an excellent angling lake, particularly with a south wind. 
Loch Badanloch and Lochinruar are also large lakes, and abound 
in trout and char. Loch-ari-clinj/^ Loch-ascaig^ Lochan-ganuh^ 
Loch-altan-feam^ Loch-cor-na^maugh^ Loch-na^moin^ Loch-na- 
clar^ Loch Truderacaigj Loch Cuilliey and Loch Leiven^ are all 
likewise in the upper parts of the parish, and all abound with 
trout, and many of them with char ; but it is somewhat remarka- 
ble that pike have never been found in any of these lakes, nor, in- 
deed, in any of the numerous waters in the county of Sutherland. 

SUTHERLAND. K 



138 SUTHEULANDSHIRE. 

Mineral springs rise in many parts of the parish ; but it is believ- 
ed that they are all chalybeate. There is one of superior quality 
at Achnamoin ; another near the manse; one at Caen; and one 
at the foot of Ben Uary. 

Geology. — The geology of this extensive parish has not been 
minutely examined or described. The mountain ranges are, it is 
believed, all primitive rocks, among which gneiss and mica- 
slate predominate, while rocks of syenite, porphyry, and large- 
granular granite, occur in many parts. Several years ago, a 
rounded piece of native gold, weighing rather more than half an 
ounce, was found in the bed of the Bum of Kildonan, a rapid 
mountain stream ; but although this discovery induced many other 
searches to be made among the loose gravel and pebbles in the 
bed of that and other adjoining streams, no additional particle of 
the precious metal has been found. 

Zoology. — The most elegant of all our native wild animals, the 
red-deer (Cervus Elaphusy) "destined to embellish the forest, and 
enliven the solitudes of nature," still ranges in many parts of this 
parish, which anciently formed part of the great deer forest of 
Dirrie Chatt This admired animal is now scarce in most parts 
of the Highlands; but amidst the solitary recesses of the great 
mountains, along the boundary lines of this parish, the red-deer, in 
considerable herds, still find protection^ and during the storms of 
winter, they traverse the lower parts of the parish, in search of 
food and shelter. Deer stalking has, of late years, been revived 
with great ardour in this district, and in the few other remote parts 
of the Highlands where the stag is now to be met with ; and the 
red-deer of Sutherland are the stateliest and fattest of their kind.* 
Since the extirpation of the wolf from this neighbourhood, which 
only occurred about 1 50 years ago, the fox has been the most ob- 
noxious wild animal in the parish. His wiles, however, have been 
of little avail to him since the introduction of sheep-farming ; for 
the united hostility of fox-hunters and shepherds has almost clear- 
ed the whole parish of foxes. The wild cat is occasionally met 
with, and is a particularly fierce and desperate animal ; so much 
so that it has been known to spring at an unarmed assailant, who 
could not instantly kill it, when excluded from other means of 
escape. The otter also frequents the numerous waters in the 

*' From the accounts that have been sent me from the various forests in Scot« 
land, I am inclined to think that the average weight of the best deer in Sutherland 
is superior to that of the other forests. It reaches about fifteen stone Dutch, linking 
the offal ; and stags are occasionally killed of seventeen stone ; and in the forest of 
Ben Hope, of a somewhat larger site.** Scrope's Art of Oeer Sulking, page 10. 



KlLDONAN. 139 

parish, but he is by no means a stationary animal, and wanders 
over wide tracts of country, from one stream to another. The 
polecat, the weasel, the mountain hare, and the mole are like- 
wise met with. Sheep of the Cheviot kind, which equal in 
the quahty and weight of the fleece, and the value of the 
carcass, the Cheviot stocks from which they were originally ob- 
tained, occupy the whole pasture grounds of the parish ; and the 
shepherd's dog must not be omitted, for without this faithful and 
tractable animal, it would be impossible to conduct sheep-farming in 
the successful manner now done. The first of these dogs were 
obtained from the borders ; but there is now a cross between them 
and the country colley dog, which is more valuable than the pure 
breed, and excels the southern dog in sagacity and hardiness. 
Birds of prey are numerous. The common eagle {Falco albiciU 
/a), the raven (Corvus corax)^ the hooded-crow (Corvus comix), 
and some species of the hawk abound. The hills of Kildonan 
have ever been celebrated as among the best grouse ranges in the 
north. The strath is well stocked with black-cock, and the tops 
of the highest mountains with ptarmigan. I'he river Helmsdale 
has a valuable salmon-fishery, which is fished under the direct con- 
trol of the landlord, in a manner the best calculated, in all respects, 
to protect the spawning fish and the smolts, and which it is expect-^ 
ed will elicit, beyond doubt, the success of the liberal system had 
recourse to, over the former close and severe mode of fishing. 
The lakes, already referred to, abound in trout and char; and 
lamprey eels are said to ascend the river Helmsdale about the 
month of June. The fresh water muscle (Mytilus anatinus) is 
also found in the bed of the river Helmsdale. 

Botany. — The diversity of soil, and the different degrees of al- 
titude and shelter which this parish affords, cover its surface with 
a great variety of plants ; but these are all, with few exceptions, 
common to similar localities throughout the Highlands. The 
haughs and low parts of the strath are verdant with succulent 
herbs and the finer varieties of grasses ; and here the birch, the 
mountain-ash, the hazel, 'aspen, and white willow, ornament the 
banks of the river, and some of the sloping sides of the hills. The 
mosses have their peculiar plants, of which the cotton grass (Erio^ 
pJiorurn) is the most conspicuous and most valuable. The exten- 
sive mountain sides are chiefly covered with heather and ling ; and 
the few rare plants which have been observed are among the Al- 
pine tribe on the highest hills, of which Arbutus alpinoy and the 
cloudberry, fBubus cham^morusjj are the most abundant. A 




140 SUTHEKLANDSHIRE. 

great part of the parish was at a remote j^eriod covered with forests 
of stately pines, which have all perished without any contemporary 
account existing of the c^use or manner of their destruction. Con- 
sequently, conflicting causes have been assigned for the total ab- 
sence of the native fir in this part of the Highlands ; but the ge- 
nerally received belief is, that the old trees died from natural decay 
when at maturity, their trunks being still dug out of the bogs in 
great numbers ; and that from the decomposition of their leaves 
and branches originated the growth of moss, which has now com- 
pletely altered the surface soil, and rendered it unfit for the growth 
of the pine tribe. 

II. — Civil Histohy. 
Some of the events and localities mentioned in the northern 

Sagas and in the Orcades of Torfaeus are supposed, from an at- 
tentive examination of the narratives, to apply to this parish. 
There exists ample evidence, that after the final departure of the 
northern invaders, the whole of this parish was part of the ancient 
earldom of Sutherland ; and consequently, the annals of that po- 
tent family embrace the subsequent historical events in the parish, 
several of which are described in Sir Robert Gordon's History of 
the Earls of Sutherland. The charter-room of Dunrobin Castle, 
— which is believed to have the most complete series of title-deeds 
and other invaluable muniments, from the thirteenth century to the 
present time, of any private charter-chest in Scotland,— contains 
written evidences, the most authentic, of the general correctness 
of that remarkable local history, in regard to the state of pos- 
session of the lands in the parish at diflerent periods, and similar 
facts. In the sixteenth century, the chiefs and a great body of the 
clan Gun settled in this parish, which, since then, until a late pe- 
riod, has been their chief place of residence ; and, as no connected 
account of them has ever been written, the following original no- 
tice of the clan Gun, prepared with great care from the only au- 
thentic sources relating to them that now exist, is here given in 
as condensed a form as the matter would admit of, — in order to 
suit the prescribed limits of this parish report. 

The Clan Guru — The clan Gun have at all times been coniSi- 
dered throughout the North Highlands as descended from the 
Norwegian Kings of Man ; and Lochlin^ the Gaelic name for an- 
cient Scandinavia, or, perhaps, in a more limited acceptation, for 
Denmark, is still named bj the few natives of the Highlands who 

w recollect the traditions of their fathers, — as the parent coun^^ 
of the Guns, the Macleods and the Gillanders. According 



KILDONAN. 141 

to the Chronicle of Man, published with Camden's Britannia in 
] 586, Godred or Godfred, sumamed Crovauy and son of Harold 
the Blacky of the royal family of Norway, was the first King of 
Man, and his sovereignty appears to have extended over a large 
portion, if not the whole, of the Western Isles. His reign is sup- 
posed to have commenced about the year 1077. The fifth King 
of Man, from Godfred the first King, and descended from him, 
was Olave, who, succeeding his father when very young, was de- 
prived of his kingdom by a natural brother named Reginald, and 
had the Island of Lewis assigned to him. After severe and pro- 
tracted struggles, Olave succeeded in recovering his kingdom, 
and died King of Man in Peel Castle, 18th June 1237. He 
had been thrice married, and by his third wife, Christina, daughter 
of Farquhar Earl of Ross, King Olave had three sons : 1. Guin 
or Gun, the ancestor of the clan Gun ; 2. Leoid, Loyd, or -Leod, 
from whom are descended the Macleods; and 3. Leaundris, 
from whom were the clan Landers, or Gillanders of Ross-shire,^ — 
but many of this last clan afterwards assumed the name of Ross. 
At this period, the Earls of Ross were very powerful in the north 
of Scotland ; and, besides being masters of the present district of 
Ross, they held extensive tracts of country in several parts of the 
west coast, and along the Caithness shores. The three grand- 
children above-named, .of Farquhar Earl of Ross, appear to have 
been provided for by that potent earl about the middle of the 
thirteenth century ; — Guin or Gun having been settled in Caith- 
ness, where the Earl's authority at that period was considerable. 
Leod obtained Glenelg from him, and by marriage with the 
daughter of a Danish knight, Macraild Armine, also obtained 
Miginish, Bracadale, Durinish, Dunvegan, Lindell, Vaterness, 
and part of Troterness, in the Isle of Sky ; while Leander settled 
in the midst of his grandfather's territories in Ross. 

The particular lands in Caithness which were originally acquired 
by the clan Gun cannot, at this distant period of time, be satis- 
factorily traced ; but the earliest castle or stronghold of their 
chief in that quarter, was the Castle of Halbury, at Easter Clythe, 
or as it is often called Crowner GurCs Castle, which, like almost 
all the other old castles in Caithness, was situate on a precipitous 
and nearly detached rock, overhanging the sea, and, except at 
one side, surrounded by it. 

The clan Gun continued to extend and occupy their possessions 
in Caithness, until about the middle of the fifteenth century, when, 
in consequence of their deadly feuds with the Keiths of Caithnes"* 



142 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

(who had obtained a settlement in that county, by the marriage 
of one of the Keiths with Marion Cheyne, a Caithness heiress, 
in the fourteenth century) and other neighbouring clans, the Guns 
found it necessary to establish their chief, and a strong detachment 
of the clan, in the adjoining county of Sutherland, where they 
obtained the protection of the Earls of Sutherland, and from them 
got possession of several lands in the parish of Kildonan and else- 
where. The history of the clan during these early centuries, as 
collected from tradition, and partly borne out by detached narra- 
tives in Sir Robert Gordon's history, is replete with incidents, 
which, in the present age, have more of the character of wild ro- 
mance than of reality, and exhibits, in many startling details, the 
ferocity and implacable fury which distinguished the feuds of the 
clans in the remote Highlands,* even down to near the close of 
the seventeenth century. This report does not admit of length- 
ened narratives of these ancient feuds ; but one instance may be 
given of the desperate manner in which they were conducted, by 
very briefly narrating the best traditional account that has been 
obtained of the following bloody and treacherous rencounter be- 
tween the Keiths and the Guns. The meeting of the parties, 
and the slaughter of the Guns, are, by Sir Robert Gordon, stated 
to have taken place in St Tyr'^s Chapel, — an old religious edifice 
on the sea coast of Caithness, and on the walls of which he says 
the blood of the slain might be seen in his time ; — but the tradi- 
tion of the Highlands says that this perfidious affair occurred in 
the interior of the country, and in the open air, in Strathmore of 
Caithness. 

Towards the end of the fifteenth century, the chief of the Clan- 
Gun was George Gun, who lived in feudal dignity in his then im- 
pregnable castle of Halbury; but he was better known as the 
Croumer Guriy or, as he was called by the Highlanders, — " N*m 
Braistach^more" from a great broach which he wore as the badge 
or cognizance of his oflice of crowner. He had a deadly feud 
with the chief of the Keiths, and having met in St Tyre's chapel 
for the purpose of effecting a reconciliation, but without success, they 
there solemnly agreed to decide their quarrel, if they could not do 
so amicably on a future day, by equal combat between twelve sons 

* Sir Robert Gordon, whose history was written in 1630, thus alludes to << the 
inveterat deidlie feud betuein the clan Gun and the Slaight-ean- Aberigh,** (a 
branch of the Mackays). He remarks : ** The long, the many, the horrible en- 
counters which happened between these two trybcs, with the bloodshed and infinit 
spoils committed in every pairt of the diocy of Cattcynes by them and iheir associats, 
aio of so disordered and troublesome memorie," that he passes them over. — P. 174. 



KILDONAN. 143 

or relatives of each chieftain. This compact was concluded by 
mutual vows, accompanied with religious rites within the chapel» 
that the meeting would take place in a solitary part of the country, 
where no interruption could occur, and the escort of each leader 
was fixed at twelve armed horsemen. The crowner had been twice 
married, and had a numerous family of sons ; but some of them 
resided in Sutherland, and it was also agreed that he should form 
his party there, and proceed into Caithness with them by the 
Strathmore route, while the Keiths would move, on the appoint- 
ed day, towards the confines of Sutherland, and in the same di- 
rection ; so that the two parties would meet in a retired dis- 
trict, remote from any chance of being disturbed. The chiefs, 
each followed by twelve horses and their riders, came within sight 
of each other on the appointed route, and soon tliereafter met at 
a bum called Alt-na-gawn, below the glut of Strathmore. The 
crowner and the leader of the Keiths approached each other in full 
armour ; but it was soon discovered by the Guns, that there were 
two riders on every horse in the party of the Keiths, and consequent- 
ly the latter party had twenty-four men opposed to the twelve fol- 
lowers of the crowner. This vile stratagem instantly revealed to 
the Guns that their destruction, by unfair means, was determined 
upon. They scorned, notwithstanding the great odds against them, 
to retreat before their enemies the Keiths ; and both parties dis- 
mounting, the huge double-handed sword, and other formidable 
weapons of the period used in close combat^ were furiously and 
destructively wielded, amidst horrid imprecations, and remorseless 
vows of each clan's never-dying vengeance, which raised to mad- 
ness the rage of the combatants. 

The Guns fought most desperately, but could not withstand 
the great odds that opposed them ; and after a long continu- 
ed struggle, the survivors on both sides were so much exhaust- 
ed, that the combat was mutually dropt, — the Keiths being 
so far the victors as to leave the field with their banner display- 
ed, and to be able to carry with them their slain companions ; 
while in the ranks of the Guns, the crowner and seven of his party 
were killed, and the remaining five were all severely wounded. 
The Keiths proceeded to Dilred Castle, in Strathmore, then oc- 
cupied by Sutherland of Dilred, where they were hospitably en- 
tertained. The five surviving Guns, who were all sons of the 
crowner, also retired, but tarried at another stream, since then call- 
ed Alt-Torquil, after Torquil Gun, one of the survivors, who there 
dressed the wounds of his brothers. Towards evening, Henry- 



144 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

beg, the youngest of the surviving brothers of the Guns, proposed 
that they should follow the Keiths, and endeavour to obtain revenge, 
even by stratagem such as the Keiths had recourse to ; but his 
brothers considered such a step as leading to their certain destruc- 
tion. Henry, however, could not be restrained from his purpose, 
and swore that he never would rest until he should kill a Keith, 
and recover possession of his father's sword, helmet, shirt of mail, 
and broach of office, which the Keiths had taken off the dead 
body of the crowner. Two of the brothers were so severely 
wounded that they could not move to any great distance, but the 
other two accompanied Henry, who arrived at Dilred Castle soon 
after nightfall. On approaching the castle, its wooden windows 
or shutters were found open, and around a large 6re in the low- 
est apartment, the survivors of the Keiths w*ere quaffing bumpers 
of ale, and Henry, who went close to one of the windows, heard 
them narrate, with boisterous delight, the losses sustained by the 
Guns. The chief of the Keiths, not apprehensive of any danger, 
accidentally approached the window where Henry stood, and the 
latter then bent his bow, and in another instant his arrow pierced 
the chieftain's heart; Henry at the same time boldly accompany- 
ing the deadly flight of his arrow with the exclamation (afterwards 
used in the North Highlands as a proverb) of " The Gun's com- 
pliments to Keith." * The old chief dropped down dead ; a panic 
seized the other Keiths ; and the three Guns, having darted for- 
ward to the door of the castle, slew some of the 6rst persons who 
ventured out by it ; but finding that they could not retain their po- 
sition long, Henry and his two brothers retired silently under co- 
ver of the darkness of the night, and hurried back to the assistance 
of the other brothers, who had been unable to accompany them. 
The crowner, f thus killed by the Keith, was, according to Sir 
Robert Gordon, " a great commander in Catteynes in his tyme, 
and wes one of the greatest men in that countrey; because when 
he flourished there was no Earle ofi* Catteynes ; that earldom being 
yit in the King's hands, and wes thereafter given to William Sinck- 

* This tradition was obtained in Gaelic, and Henry's cxclarration of** lomachgnr 
n*Guinach gu Kaigh,** is more emphatic in that language than in any translation of 
the words. 

f Crownefy Croxntare, Crounal^ according to Dr Jamieson, was first an officer to 
whom it belonged to attach all persons, agsdnst whom there was an accusation in 
matters pertaining to the Crown ; and the distinction between the office of crowner 
and that of sheriff was anciently thus explained : ** All attachments pcrteines to the 
Cfwvner, quher the accuser makes mention, in his accusation, of the breaking of the 
King's peace. Otherwaies, gif he makes na mention thereof, the attachment pertcnes 
to the shircf/' 2dly, the crowner was he who had the charge of the troops raised in 
one county. The first certain proof of the existence of the office of crowner occurs in 
the reign of David II. 



KILDONAN. 145 

ler, the second son of William, Earl of Orkney, by his second 
wife : which William, Earl of Catteynes, wes slain at Flowden.'* * 
The Earldom of Caithness, at the period here referred to, may be 
said to have been, in one respect, in the King's hands ; for although^ 
after the termination of the Norwegian line of Earls of Orkney 
and Caithness in 1331, the Earl of Strathern was also Earl of 
Caithness for a short time ; the succeeding Earls of the Sinclair 
family claimed the Caithness title, while they also held the Earl- 
dom of Orkney under the kings of Denmark, and their allegiance 
to a foreign power divested them of their privileges as Earls of 
Caithness under the Crown of Scotland. This state of matters, no 
doubt, occasioned the establishment of a crownership in Caithness, 
which office was vested in the person of the chief of the Guns, who 
was afterwards killed by the Keiths. 

Five of the crowner*s sons survived him. The eldest, James, 
from whom the patronymic of MacKeamish^ the son of James^ 
is derived, which distinguished his sou and all the subsequent 
chiefs of the clan, succeeded his father, and resided in Sutherland, 
as all his successors have done, their principal dwelling-house hav- 
ing been at Killernan, in the parish of Kildonan, until it was de- 
stroyed accidentally by fire, about the year 1690. From one of 
the sons of the crowner, named William, are descended the Wil- 
sons of Caithness, and from Henry, the Hendersons. Another 
son, Robert, who was killed with his father, left issue, and from 
them were the Gun Robsons, who afterwards appear in the annals 
of Caithness, and from the issue of another son, John, also killed 
by the Keiths, were the Guns M^Ekns of Caithness. 

It was in the time of this crowner Gun that Hugh Macdonald 
of Sleat, third son of Alexander Earl of Ross, married a lady of 
the clan Gun, who is supposed to have been the crowner's daugh- 
ter. By this lady, Macdonald of Sleatf " had a son, Donald, 
called Gallach, from being fostered X by his mother's relations in 

* Sir Robert Gordon*s History, page 92. 

t Gregory *s Western Highlands and Isles, P^^gc ^* 

X The fostering of the children of great families, in remote but comparatively se- 
cure parts of the interior of the Highlands, was a very common practice in the north 
of Scotland, down to the beginning of the last century ; and the alliance or affection- 
ate tie thus formed often proved to be stronger than that flowing from blood -relation- 
ship. Sir R. Gordon refers to this result in another case of fostering among the clan 
Gunn. He says, ** In the moneth of December, 1622 yeirs. Sir John Sinclair of 
Greinland and Ratter, (the Earle of Catteynes, his brother,) died in Catteynes. He 
was a great favourer of the Clan- Gun, with whom he had been fostered and bred in 
his infdncie, which is accompted the strictest poynt of amitie and friendship among 
all the Hielanders of the kingdome of Scotland, preferring oftentymcs their fosters 
and foster -brethren unto their parents, and neircst kinred ; they will follow and de- 



146 SUTHERLANDSHIUE. 

Caithness, who afterwards became the heir of the family, and from 
whom the present Lord Macdonald is descended." 

James Gun was succeeded as chieftain by his son William, 
with whom originated the patronymic of Mackeamishy i. e. the son 
of James. William, the first Mackeamish, signalized himself in 
several conflicts in the north, and his fame as a successful and 
brave leader of his clan, has been celebrated in some Gaelic verses 
and songs still existing. Alexander Gun of Killernan was the se- 
cond, and his son William Gun, the third Mackeamish. John 
Gun of Killernan and Navidale was the fourth, and Alexander 
Gun, also of the same designation, was the fifth Mackeamish. 
This last chief had two sons, Donald and George, and was suc- 
ceeded bv his eldest son Donald, who was the sixth Mackeamish. 
Alexander Gun, the son of Donald, was the seventh, and Alex- 
ander's son, William Gun, the eighth Mackeamish ; but this last 
chief, who was an officer in the army, being killed in action in 
India, without leaving issue, and the other male descendants of 
Donald, the sixth Mackeamish, being extinct, the chieftainship de- 
volved on the now deceased Hector Gunn,* the great-grandson of 
Greorge, the second son of Alexander, the fifth Mackeamish, to 
whom he was served as nearest male heir on Slst May 1803 ; 
and George Gunn, Esq., Rhives, in Sutherland, the only son of 
the said Hector Gunn, is now the chief of the clan Gunn, and the 
tenth Mackeamish. 

Land-Otoner. — His Grace the Duke of Sutherland is proprie- 
tor of the whole parish, which has been part of the ancient Earl- 
dom of Sutherland from the earliest time to which the national 
records go back. 

Antiquities. — There are the remains of several circular or Pict- 
ish towers in this parish, which have outlasted in their great anti- 
quity, all traditionary accounts that may have once existed in re- 
gard to their erection, their uses, or history. f There are also 

pend upon them befor their natural lords and masters.'* Seyeral formal agreements 
for the fostering of children are still preserved in the north ; and the foster.fkther, as 
well as the father of the child, makes a gift of cattle, which, with their whole increase, 
were to be kept as the property of the foster-child, until he arriyed at man*s estate. 

* The name Gun had been, until the middle of last century, spelt with one n, but 
since then, a second n has been added, in order to distinguish the name from the word 
ffuttf a musket,—- a comparatively modem word, which has slid into the English lan- 
guage, in a manner which puzzles all etymologists. The name Gun appears to have 
been the same as the Welsh Gwyrie^ and the name Gawne, still common in the Isle 
of Man. 

f lliese Pictish towers seem to have been more numerous in the principal straths 
in Sutherland, than in any other district of Scotland ; and the writer of this report 
has visited the ruins of 65 of them in that county. There are some others whicli he 



KILDONAN. 147 

many barrows or tumuli scattered over the parish ; and in one not 
far from the manse, which was opened by workmen in search of gra- 
â–¼el, a coffin formed of plain flags was discovered, in which were 
mouldermg human bones. One of these tumuli, in the shape of a 
well-proportioned cone, and called Knock* nreachy^ is situate close 
to the manse, and also an upright stone called Clachna-heudh. 

III. — Population. 



In the year 1801, 


1440 


1811, 


1574 


1821, 


565 


1831, 


257 



The decrease is accounted for by the change that occurred in the 
rural economy of the parish, by the substitution of Cheviot sheep 
for Highland cattle, between the years 181 1 and 1821. The sys- 
tem of small holdings and subletting, previously common in the 
parish, was thereby altered ; and no part of the parish being adapt- 
ed for new settlements, the bulk of the population was settled in 
the coast-side parishes ; and, in particular, they resorted to the 
village of Helmsdale and its neighbourhood, which is within two 
miles of the southern boundary of the parish, forming part of the 
same district of country, and where the increase of the population 
far exceeds the decrease in the interior. 

IV. — Industry. 
Almost the whole of the parish is occupied as sheep farms. 
The number of sheep grazed, all of the Cheviot breed, is esti- 
mated at 18,000 head, and they are divided among six tenants of 
separate farms. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Helmsdale is the nearest town, distant two miles from the south 
boundary of the parish, and nine miles from the manse and church. 
There is a good road leading from Helmsdale, along the whole 
extent of the strath, to Bighouse and Melvich, on the north coast ;. 
and another road from within one mile of the manse, running 
southward across the Crask ; a stormy and elevated hill dividing 
the strath from the head of Glen Loth, until it joins the parlia- 
mentary road on the east coast of the county at Loth-beg. 

has not yet seen ; and he is inclined to think, that a complete inspection of the whole 
of them, and accurate details of each tower, so far as their ruinous condition will ad- 
mit of, including not only their size, and interior arrangements, and their situation 
in regard to marked localities, and their vicinity in some cases to each other ; but also 
erery deviation from any part of their peculiar, and generally uniform construction, 
would, in some degree, remove the obscurity that at present attends the contempla- 
tion of these interesting relics of the oldest stone buildings in our native land, and 
which, when complete, must have exhibited, in singular combination, the ingenuity 
of design, and laborious industry of a people somewhat advanced in the arts of civili- 
sation, with the rudeness of workmanship peculiar to savage life. 



148 SUTUEULANDSUIRE. 

Ecclesiastical State. — By Bishop Gilbert Murray's charter, i/i- 
ter 1222 and 1245, reconstituting the chapter of the bishopric of 
Caithness, which included the whole county of Sutherland, the 
chapter consisted of nine canons, of whom five were dignitaries. 
The Abbot of Scone was appointed one of the abbots, and had the 
church of " Keldurunach" assigned to him, under the provision, 
that when absent, he would have another to minister for him. 
The Abbots of Scone continued in charge of this church until the 
Reformation ; and the foundation of " Tea'n Abb," or the Ab- 
bott's House is still seen to the west of the manse, while the fi- 
gure of a human head, rudely carved in stone, and called the Jb- 
bofs Headf is preserved in the garden wall of the manse. The 
patronage of the parish has, since the Reformation, been vested 
in the Sutherland family. The extent of the glebe is between 13 
and 14 acres, and the minister has besides the grazing of 60 sheep. 
The former stipend of 40 bolls of victual is now converted, and 
paid by the heritor with the former money stipend of L. 30, lOs. 
Id. ; and there is also an addition of L. 70 from Exchequer. The 
manse is in good repair, and the church is suitable for the congre- 
gation ; the whole inhabitants of the parish being of the church of 
Scotland. 

Education. — The parish school is situate near the manse, but, 
owing to the great extent of the parish, many families are prevent- 
ed from sending their children to it Several private teachers, 
however, are employed, and exclusively paid by the inhabitants ; 
and the parental duty of providing for the education of youth ap- 
pears, in this parish, to acquire strength in proportion to the diffi- 
culties to be overcome in exercising it. The amount of the pa- 
rochial schoolmaster's salary is the minimum. 

Poor. — The few indigent persons in this parish are treated with 
kindness by their more independent and fortunate neighbours ; 
and the easy access they all have to fuel, and the non-exactment 
of rent for their small houses, make the moderate allowances from 
the poor funds which they receive of far more value to them, than 
the same sums would be in more densely inhabited parishes. 
These funds are derived from Sunday collections, and an annual 
donation from the Sutherland family. The average number of 
poor of all classes for the years 1835, 1836, and 1837, is 42; 
average amount of church collections during these years, L.9 ; 
average amount of mortifications, &c. during these years, L.4. 

February 1840. 



PARISH OF CLYNE.* 

PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. GEORGE MACKAY, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The etymology of the name of this parish is not cor- 
rectly known ; and though there are various conjectures on this 
point, not one of them seems in any degree satisfactory. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The 6gure of the parish is irregular; 
in length it extends from the east coast of the county into the in- 
terior to the summit of Ben Ormin, a distance of about 24 miles 
from south-east to north-west; its breadth on the coast side is 
4 miles, and varies from 6 to 8 miles inland. It is bounded on 
the south-west by the parish of Golspie ; on the west by Rogart ; 
on the north by Kildonan ; on the north-east by Loth, and on the 
south-east by the German ocean. 

Topographical Appearances. — The interior is in many parts 
very picturesque, being distinguished from the more tame scenery 
along the coast, by a variety of mountains, glens, and lakes, and 
adorned by natural and planted woods. The prospect is much ad- 
mired, when entering the glen at Killean. The Carrol Rock, an 
abrupt precipice overhanging Loch Brora, — Ben Clibrig, Ben Or- 
min, and Ben Horn, at once break on the view, which, with the 
reflection in the lake of the rock of Carrol, and the sloping sides 
of the hills covered with plantations and natural woods, present a 
singular and magnificent panorama. 

About nine miles from the coast. Strath Brora divides into two 
valleys of a still more upland character, at a place called Ascoile. 
The one to the left is skirted with many clumps and a few exten- 
sive ranges of natural wood ; and the other valley, or rather glen, 
to the north is wild and deep. At this point also, the parish assumes 
a more sterile and Highland aspect, being of a bleak and heathy 
character, with extensive ranges of moors and moss, intersected by 

• Drawn up by George Gunn, Esq. of Rhives. 



150 SUTHERLANDSHIRK. 

nviinerous small rivulets ; and still more inland, several lofty hills, 
forming part of the high and stormy centre range of Sutherland 
mountains, mark the boundaries of the parish to the west and 
north. Greatly different from this elevated district, the low grounds 
of the parish along the sea-coast contain well-cultivated farms, sur- 
rounded by several townships occupied by small tenants, and com- 
posed of neat stone cottages, — these farms connected together by 
excellent and well kept roads, which intersect the cultivated parts 
of the parish in all directions. The elevation of two of the highest 
mountains above the level of the sea, as ascertained by measure- 
ment, is as follows, — Ben Ormin 2306 feet; Ben Horn 1712 feet. 

The only cave deserving notice is a small one of peculiar con- 
struction above the Bridge of Brora ; it seems to have been form- 
ed by the action of the water on a soft portion of the rock, before 
the river became imbedded in its present low level. 

The coast is low and sandy, and has a breadth of sand hills ex- 
tending about a quarter of a mile from the shore, and covered with 
bent, and where not broken, with rich pasture. This sandy belt 
is succeeded by the arable land occupied by the letters or small 
tenants, and the fine farms of Inver Brora and Clynelish ; and be- 
hind them are the hills of the interior division. 

Temperature. — Along the sea coast, the weather is the same as 
in the neighbouring parishes, with the exception, perhaps, of the 
parish of Golspie, which is better sheltered by plantations, and not 
so exposed to storms from the mountains in the centre of the 
CQunty as the low grounds of this parish are, when the wind blows 
down the opening of Strath Brora. The north-west gales blow 
with great force down this strath, the high hills on each side form- 
ing a natural funnel, and the blasts spread along the low grounds, 
often causing much injury to the crops. The soil being of a 
light, sharp, gravelly quality, occasional long droughts materially 
affect vegetation ; but it revives rapidly on being refreshed by the 
copious showers, which seldom fail to come in time to save it. 

The climate may be considered on the whole excellent, of which 
the healthy appearance and the longevity of the people furnish the 
best demonstration. The prevailing winds are east or north-east, 
west or south-west. The east wind is sometimes damp, cold, and 
penetrating, and the west wind excessively violent. 

H^droffraphi/.^Loch Brora is the principal sheet of water in 
the parish. It is about four miles long, and varies from a quarter 
to half-a-mile in breadth, being contracted at two points, and has 



CLYNE. 151 

the appearance of three lakes when seen from a short distance. 
Extensive fir plantations on each side, with the bold precipitous 
Carrol rock, and the mansion-house and offices of Kilcalmkill, form 
a beautiful and interesting scene in fine weather. 

There is a small island near the lower end of Loch Brora, of 
which Sir Robert Gordon says, in his History of the Earldom of 
Sutherland, that " the Erie of Southerland hes a delectable ha- 
bitation, and pleasant for hunting of red-deer and roes in the 
woods on both sides of the loch. This island is distant thrie or four 
myles from the burgh of Broray." 

Among the smaller lakes. Loch Tubernach, north of Clyne 
church, and the source of the Clyne Milton Burn, was, at one 
time, famous for large trout of superior flavour ; but they have fallen 
off in quality, of late years. 

The river Brora has its source in the forest of Ben Clibrig, and, 
passing through a part of Rogart, it enters this parish about two 
miles above Sciberscross, and joins the Black Water a mile below 
that place. This latter river rises in Ben Ormin, and runs through 
a long extent of deep moors, which give a dark tinge to the water, 
and from which it no doubt derives its name. It receives several 
tributaries in its course, and runs down a deep rocky channel for 
about five miles before its junction with the Brora, when the 
united streams flow through rich meadows for half-a-mile, and 
fall into Loch Brora. 

There is a cascade on the Black Water, near Balnakyle, very 
magnificent when the river is in flood ; and another still more strik- 
ing and romantic at Kilcalmkill, which is visited by most tourists ; 
also a cascade well worthy of notice on a small burn near the 
manse of Clyne, where the water falls into a deep ravine over a 
rock sixty feet. high. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — Sir Humphry Davy, when he visit- 
ed this county in 1812, left a manuscript at Dunrobin Castle, de- 
scribing the mineral productions of part of Sutherland, wherein he 
stated, with reference to this parish, " that the secondary rocks 
occupy but a small space, and are probably incumbent on the red 
sandstone or breccia ; that they occur in regular strata, but their 
arrangement is very much disturbed. They appear to have been 
originally deposited or formed parallel to the horizon ; but in most 
places, this parallelism has been disturbed either by the subsidence 
or elevation of parts of the strata, so that there are frequent faults 
or abruptions of the different rocks, which have given to the diffe- 
rent parts of the strata different inclinations. 



152 {^UTHERLANDSHIRC. 

^^ The true secondary strata of Sutherland occupy an extent of 
six or seven miles, filling up a sort of basin between the transition 
hills in the neighbourhood of Dunrobin, and those in' the parish 
of Loth. The upper stratum is a sandstone of different degrees 
of hardness, and composed of silicious sand, cemented by silicious 
matter. Below this, occurs an aluminous shale, containing pyri- 
tous matter, carbonaceous matter, the remains of marine animals, 
and of land vegetables. Beneath this shale, or rather alternating 
with it, a stratum occurs, containing, in some of its parts, calcare- 
ous matter, and passing into limestone; but in general consisting 
of a silicious isand, agglutinated by calcareous cement The coal 
measures occupy the lowest part of this secondary district which 
has been explored." 

Coal had been worked near the mouth of the River Brora so 
far back as 1573, in the time of Lady Jane Gordon, Countess of 
Sutherland, and at various subsequent periods; but that work 
was labandoned many years ago. The late Duke of Sutherland, 
with the munificence which characterized all his improvements, 
expended L. 16,000 in sinking a new pit, and for the necessary 
buildings, on the north side of the river, half a mile above the 
bridge, where a scam was found from 3 feet 2 inches to 3 feet 8 
inches thick, at a depth of 250 feet from the surface. The coal was 
conveyed to the harbour on a railway 800 yards in length. Four 
large salt-pans were also erected, which cost L.3327, and the salt 
produced proved of very superior quality. 

Limestone is found in small detached portions in various places 
on the banks of the River Brora, from the harbour upwards. It 
contains no magnesian earth, and is adulterated only with alumi- 
nous and silicious earths, and oxide of iron. A specimen of it 
was examined by Sir Humphry Davy, from a rock about 100 
yards above the Weir: 20 grains contained 17.3 grains of carbo- 
nate of lime.* 

Zoology. — The animals of this parish are common to most other 
parts of the county. They are, the red-deer, roe, fox, wild-cat, 
polecat, martin, and the stoat or weasel, which becomes white in 
winter, the lesser brown stoat, the brown otter, mole, common 
mouse, field-mouse, lesser field-mouse, Alpine hare, common hare, 
common gray rabbit, Muscovy rat. At no distant period, it was the 
general belief that rats could not exist in the county, and Suther- 

* We understand more detailed accounts of the geology of this parish than that 
given ahove, have been laid before the Werner ian Society by Professor Jameson, and 
by Messrs Murchison and Sedgwick before the Geological Society. 

4 



CLYNE. 153 

land earth was frequently taken to other countries, under the im- 
pression of its efficacy in driving them from any place where the 
earth might be deposited. But a vessel being wrecked near Kin- 
tradwell about thirty years ago, dispelled the cl^lusion, and intro- 
duced the Muscovy rat, which has since multiplied, and spread in 
every direction. The red-deer have become very numerous since 
the plantations on the banks of Loch Brora have grown up to af> 
ford them cover and shelter. Some of these noble animals attain 
a great size, and are often seen congregated in herds. Lord 
Francis Egerton killed one of the stags at this place in 1838, 
which weighed upwards of eighteen stones Dutch weight; and it is 
believed that some of them are now much larger. The foxes and 
other animals of prey were at one time very destructive to stock ; 
but the farmers entered into an association and hired fox-hunters, 
by whose exertions they were nearly extirpated ; at least they were 
so much thinned, as not again to become very formidable. 

One hundred and 6fty different kinds of birds frequent the pa^ 
rish, the most remarkable of which are, the white-tailed eagle, ring 
tailed eagle, peregrine falcon, buzzard, hawk,, wild swan, wild 
goose, blackcock, grouse, ptarmigan. 

The fishes in Loch Brora are, salmon, grilse, salmon trout, 
char, common trout. The salmon begin to ascend the river in 
condition to spawn about the middle of August; the grilse a fort- 
night later. They begin to spawn about the 1st of October, and 
descend as kelts or spent fish in February. The smelts go down' 
in March, continuing to do so till the end of May. The grilses 
commence their ascent in May, varying it from the beginning till 
the end of the month, according as the season maybe early or late. 

The fishes caught on the shores are, cod, ling, haddock, skate, 
turbot, halibut, flounder, whiting, mackerel, mullets, millers, gur- 
nards. The shell-fish are, lobsters, partons or crabs. 

IL — Civil History. 

Sir Robert Gordon's Genealogical History of the Earldom of 
Sutherland, of which there is an old manuscript copy in the libra- 
ry at Dunrobin Castle, contains many notices of this parish, but 
chiefly descriptive of the ancient feuds and combats which used to 
distract the country at that period, and is too voluminous to be in- 
serted here. 

The chief historical event of importance which has taken place 

since the publication of the former report, is the change in the oc- 

.cupation-of the parish, by the removal of the small tenants from the 

SUTHIiRLAND. L 



154 SUTHERLANOSHIBE. 

interior to the coast side, and which, with its consequences on the 
comforts and habits of the inhabitants, will be noticed hereafter. 

A correct map of the county of Sutherland, on a scale of one 
inch to a mile, wa? completed a few years since at the expense of 
the late Duke of Sutherland ; from which it appears that the sur- 
face of this parish contains 103 square miles, or G5,000 acres im* 
perial measure. 

The Duke of Sutherland is sole land-owner of the parish. The 
property of Kilcalmhill, which belonged for about 300 years to the 
Gordons of Carrol, a highly respectable family connected with 
the Gordon branch of the Earls of Sutherland, was purchased by 
the late Duke about thirty years ago ; also detached portions of the 
estate of Uppat, lying in Clyne ; the place of Uppat, afterwards 
purchased by his Grace, being in the parish of Golspie. 

Parochial Registers, — There is no trace of any parochial regis- 
ter being kept farther'back than the year 1706, and even for some 
time thereafter the strictest accuracy has not been observed. 

Antiquities. — This parish is not remartcable formuch that deserves 
the notice of the antiquarian, and the few scattered remnants that 
can be traced are greatly dilapidated. Castle Cole^ one of those towers 
once so common in the north, is, however, worthy of particular 
notice. It is perhaps the most entire of what are called Pictish 
towers, in this part of Scotland, excepting that of Dornadilla, in 
Strathmore, in the parish of Durness. It is situated on the east 
side of the Black Water, about two miles above its junction with 
the Brora, and must have been held an impregnable place of de- 
fence in its day. The opposite bank is a precipice of 70 feet 
The river running rapidly over a rocky channel, renders it inacces- 
sible on three sides, and the narrow neck which connects it with 
the east bank seems to have been protected by a ditch. The 
building is oblong ; the walls 11 feet thick, without lime or mortar ; 
the diameter inside 22 feet ; the only part of the walls now stand- 
ing is on the south and east sides, about 12 feet high ; the door, 
5 feet high, 3 feet wide, is in this part of the building facing the 
south. There is a space in the wall, on the cast side of this entrance, 
which can be traced round the building, and its height would on- 
ly admit of people to lie or creep in it. This tower must have been 
the stronghold of the chieftain or of the tribe ; and the remains of 
a line of watch-towers, to give warning of any hostile approach, 
may still be traced to the coast. 

Craig Bar, on the south side of Loch Brora, is thus noticed in 
the former Statistical Report. " It is a steep and rocky precipice, 



CLYNE. 155 

fortified with a ditch of circumvallation, every way inaccessible, but 
by a narrow neck of land between it and a neighbouring hill; it 
contains about eight acres of land, and could be easily defended 
against any number of assailants." An ancient cemetery at Kil- 
calmkill, marks where the heroes of those davs rest. The srave of 
the chief, in which large human bones were found, is yet distin- 
guished by four stones and a cover. Various tumuli lie scattered 
over the interior, marking their battle-grounds, and where the slain 
were buried ; but their names and their deeds have passed into 
oblivion. 

The next object of antiquity is an artificial island in Loch Bro- 
ra, already alluded to, and which has been correctly described as 
below, in a note to Jhe former Report.* 

III. — POPULATJON. 

The popnlation of the parish has varied little since the year 
1792, owing to the change which has taken place in the system 
of farming, the glens and interior being converted into sheep-walks ; 
the inhabitants being removed to the sea coast, and some of them 
having emigrated to North America. The coal-works com- 
menced in 1812, and caused a considerable increase of the popu- 
lation, which appeared by the census taken in 1821 ; and as they 
ceased to be worked in 1828, the number decreased previous to 
the next census in 1831. 

By tbe census taken m 1702, the population was 16G0 

1801, . . 1643 

1811, . . 1639 

1821, . . 1874 

laSl, . 1711 

1840, . 1756 



• " Tlie figure of the island is an oblong square, consisting of two inferior squa'^cs of 
70 feet diameter. It was dividend into two parts ; one-half appropriated for lodgings 
in time of war ; the other lialf laid out for the advantage of a garden. TI19 walls 
are still pretty high, and ascend perpendicularly from the surface of the water, without 
a vestige uf the island behind them, and are only accessible by two stairs which front 
the south and east; so that with plenty of stores and the fishing of the loch, 
abounding with silmon, trout, and eel, the place was rendered impregnable when 
properly defended. Among many reports of tbe good purposes of this island, there is 
one traditionary story repeated with pleasure by the inhabitants to this day. They tell 
that, on a certain occasion, the neighbourhood was suddenly invaded by a numerous 
army of Caithness men, which they were not prepared to resist. Upon this occasion 
they fled to the island for an asylum, where they were secure from the assaults of the 
enemy. Upon this, the invaders were so enraged, that they attempted darning up 
the narrow mouth of the loch, at which the river breaks out, and had made such pro* 
gress in the work, that the islanders were obliged to take to their boats in the night 
time, to accomplish their escape ; but, l>eing pursued, they would have all perished, 
had it not been for the seasonable assistance of the clan Gun, who had marched from 
Strathulie upon hearing of the danger of their countrymen. The Caithness-men, in 
consequence of tliis assistance, met with a total defeat ; and the part of the river or 
loch, at which they had been employed, retains 10 this day the name of Daman or 
Davan, which signifies a dam." 



156 SUTHERLAND8HIRE* 

The number of families in the parish is 385, and they may be 
distinguished as follows : 

Male heads of fiiinilies, . . 255 

Female heads of families, . . . 130 

885 

Bachelors above 50 years of age, . 7 

Unmarried women above 50 years of age, . 99 

Insane males, • . • '0 

Insane females, . ... 5 

Males under 15 years, - , . 293 

Females under 15 years, . . 282 

Males betwixt 15 and 90 years, . 175 

Females betwixt 15 and 90 years, . 219 

Males betwixt 90 and 50 years, 149 

Females betwixt 90 and 50 years, . . 180 

Males betwixt 50 and 70 years, 115 

Females betwixt 50 and 70 years, . 196 

Males upwards of 70 years, . . 47 

Females upwards of 70 years, . . 55 

The language usually spoken among the labouring classes is 
Gaelic ; but, owing to the more general intercourse with the south 
country, and the increase of education, it has certainly lost ground 
since the date of the former report, and, as m'ost of the young peo- 
ple now attend school and receive at least the rudiments of educa- 
tion, it bids fair to be altogether unknown at no very distant pe- 
riod.- 

The inhabitants of this parish do not devote much of their time 
to popular games and amusements ; and the few remnanU; of the 
merry olden times are fast passing from among them. The bag- 
pipe is never heard except at weddings, and on Christmas and 
New- Year's Days. Their only game is the shinny y which they 
play with spirit during the holidays, and they then lay their clubs 
aside till the return of the same period next year. There is no- 
thing distinctive in their habits, appearance, or personal qualities. 
They intermarry with the inhabitants of the other parishes on the 
coast-side ; and, consequently, form one community of the same ge- 
neral quality and customs. Their habits are cleanly, and their style 
of dress, when prepared for church on Sunday, is not surpassed by 
that of any assembled congregation of the same class of people in 
the south country. Straw bonnets are becoming general ; and no 
young damsel is seen without a neatly made cap, her hair taste- 
fully braided, and her dress formed after the latest imported fashion. 
A great change this, from the time when they were clad in coarse, 
homespun, woollen stuff, and little regard was paid to appearance 
or cleanliness. 

Though the peasantry cannot procure the same quantity of ani- 
mal (ood, and of the produce of the dairy, as when they lived in 



clvne\ l.ot 

llie interior and occupied a greater extent of land, they enjoy in 
general «in abundant and varied supply at all seasons of the year. 
There is no family without some land, and few but keep one or 
more cows and a pig. Their lots of land supply potatoes, some 
meal, and other necessaries. The more industrious secure a store 
of herrings and other fish ; purchase some sheep or a cow, and kill 
a pig for winter food. Therefore, it may confidently be said, that; 
on the whole, they enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and 
advantages of society ; and their cheerful industrious habits are the 
best criterion of their being contented with their situation and cir- 
cumstances. 

They have acquired, in common with the people of the country, 
a taste for evangelical preaching, and cherish a warm attachment 
towards the Established Church. No Dissenting preacher has 
attempted to gain a footing in the parish ; and it would be in vain, 
so long as the present able and zealous minister continues to pos- 
sess the confidence and affections of his people. There is neither 
a professed Dissenter nor Roman Catholic in the parish ; and, 
what may seem extraordinary, there is not one of the latter per- 
suasion among the natives of the county, in a population of 26,000 
souls. Though the country people are but little educated, they 
will soon discover an error in doctrine, and can quote scripture in 
support of their arguments with surprising readiness and accuracy. 
They are not fanatical nor given to prejudice, if directed by a 
clergyman whom they respect ; and a mutual esteem and attach- 
ment is soon established betwixt the pastor and his flock, such as 
is described in the early and purer days of our church. 

The poor here are more numerous in proportion to the popula- 
tion than in the adjoining parishes of Loth and Golspie, and 
the inhabitants generally are not in such good circumstances as in 
these parishes, which is thus accounted for: — when the tenantswere 
removed from the interior of the country to the coast-side, the poor 
belonging to this and other parts of the estate, and those who were 
unable or unwilling to occupy and improve lots of land, settled in 
the vicinity of the coal-pits, where they were insured abundance of 
fuel, without pay or trouble ; and living among men in the regular 
receipt of high wages, they were sure to obtain a share of these earn* 
ings ; but when the works ceased, they enjoyed no such advan- 
tages, and, being thrown on their own resources, they soon became 
a burden on the community. On the other hand, the people of 
Loth are enriched by the herring-fishing, and the high price paid 



4bS SlJTHEIiLANDSHIRE. 

for their labour in the rapidly rising village of Helmsdale. Gol- 
spie is a community of tradesmen, labourers, and fishers, kept in 
constant employment by the establishments of Dunrobin, and of 
the neighbourinor extensive arable farms. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — This parish contains 65,000 square acres, of 
which a very small portion indeed is under cultivation ; the rest 
being generally high and irreclaimable hill-pasture. It is not easy 
to state with accuracy the extent of land in tillage, but it cannot 
be under 1400 acres imperial measure, three-fourths of which has 
been trenched from the barren waste by the settlers from the hills, 
and what was formerly under the plough greatly improved. There 
being 385 families, and as these occupy from one to four acres, 
we may safely fix the extent possessed by the cottars on an ave- 
rage at nearly two acres each, making in round numbers 730, ex- 
clusive of the following principal farms : — Clynelish, 235; Inver- 
Brorn, 210; East Brora, 75; Kilcalmkill, 60; Clynekirkton and 
Glebe, 40; Clynemilton, 33; Achrimsdale Park, 17-— total 1400. 
The six farms here enumerated have comfortable dwelling-houses 
and c<omplete oflRces, sufficient for every purpose. They are en- 
closed and subdivided with neat and substantial stone fences, tho- 
roTighly drained, and cultivated, strictly according to the most ap- 
proved system of modern husbandry, producing luxuriant crops of 
barley, oats, and turnips. No wheat is raised, the soil not being 
considered suited for it. The average rent of the old arable land 
is about L. 1, 5s. per acre, and the tenant becomes bound to im- 
prove all corners of fields, and such portions of the adjoining moor- 
ground as is conditioned for on the commencement or renewal of 
his lease. The duration of the leases is for nineteen years. The 
wages to male-servants from L. 8 to L. 10 ; females from L. 3 to 
L. 5 annually ; labourers Is. 6d. per day ; and there is seldom 
any difference made in the winter season, from their being then 
more exposed to inclement weather. 

The parish is entirely laid out in sheep-walks, excepting the 
above arable farms, and the ground occupied by the small tenants. 
The stock is pure Cheviot, and the utmost attention being paid 
to the improvement of the sheep by the present judicious and ex- 
perienced tenants, they deservedly command the highest prices at 
market, and carry the first prizes in competition with the stock of 
other counties. The total number of sheep is from 10,000 to 
1 1,000 ; the rent averaging 2s. 6d. each. There is of other stock» 



CLYNE. 159 

about 300 horses, 250 cows, 300 other cattle, and 300 pigs. 
Goats were at oue time numerous, but they have now quite disap 
peared. 

When the small tenants were removed from the interior, lots 
were marked off for each of them, containing in every instance 
from a quarter to an acre of old land, and to this was added about 
two acres of moor- ground, which they were to improve. Not only 
has this condition been implemented in most cases, but the ad- 
joining lands have been trenched, and now produce rich crops of 
com and potatoes. There was scarcely a cart or a plough among 
the small tenants in the parish forty years ago. It can now boast 
of 258 carts and 240 ploughs, all made by native tradesmen, on 
the most approved principles. At that date, there was scarcely a 
regularly bred tradesman in the parish. They now abound ; and 
there may be reckoned five stone masons, nine house-carpenters, 
twelve dike-builders, three blacksmiths, nine tailors, twelve shoe- 
makers, three cartwrights, besides journeymen and apprentices. 

There are several clumps of natural wood on the banks of Loch 
Brora, consisting of common and weeping birch, bird-cherry, 
alders, a variety of poplars, some old detached oak trees, and 
about 150 acres of thriving fir plantations at Kilcalmhill ; and on 
the opposite side of the loch, which contributes greatly to the 
beauty of that magnificent lake, — also 50 acres of fir-plantation at 
Clynelish ; but owing to the bad quality of the soil, and its expo- 
sure to the sea-blast) it has hot kept pace with the other woods in 
the parish. The plantations are thinned regularly, sufficiently en- 
closed, and care is taken to prevent trespass by cattle, or other in- 
jury to them. 

Quarries. — There are two freestone quarries, which have been 
extensively worked of late years for domestic purposes, and for ex- 
portation ; one below Spouty, near the sea, of a soft, friable, sandy 
quality, not much used, except for the small country cottages, 
the other at Branbury hill, near Clynelish, a remarkably com- 
pact, hard, silicious freestone, beautifully white, and highly valued 
for its durability. It contains many very perfect petrifactions of 
trees, fishes, and various forms of shells, which are much prized by 
the scientific travellers who visit the country. 

Fisheries. — The river Brora is famous for the number and qua* 
lity of its salmon, and when in proper condition, is one of the best 
angling streams in the north. It is fished for behoof of the pro- 
prietors, and the produce sold to a company at a stipulated rate 



160 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

per pound. The rent may be stated at L. 300 a year. Some 
boats have been enoraged at Brora in the herring-fishing, and with 
tolerable success. There are three boats' crews of regular fishers, 
who keep the neighbourhood abundantly supplied, — often selling a 
large cod for 2d., a skate from 4d. to 6d., and sometimes from 20 
to 40 haddocks for 6d. But the other inhabitants have not taken 
to the sea, as was expected, and they are more inclined to occupy 
their time in cultivating their lands, — excepting during the her- 
ing-fishing season, when they are all engaged in it, at Brora or 
Helmsdale. 

Kelp was formerly manufactured on the shores; but this has 
beeu discontinued since the fall in the value of that article at mar- 
ket, and the tenants are allowed the free use of the sea-ware as 
manure for their land. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Town^ i^c. — Dornoch is the nearest market-town, being 

distant about thirteen miles from the confines of the parish; but 

half-yearly markets are held in Golspie, only four miles distant, 

in June and October. Brora is the only village, and contains 280 

inhabitants. 

Means of Communication. — When the former report was pub- 
lished, there was not a mile of road fit for a carriage, and Brora 
could boast of the only bridge in the county. It has probably long 
enjoyed this advantage, and its name may have been derived from 
the Danish word Brora, a bridge^ or from brugh, a borough. 
Now, the country is intersected in every direction with the finest 
roads in the kingdom, there being in this parish alone about thirty 
miles of road, and fifteen bridges of the most perfect construction, 
and always kept in the best order. No toll- dues are exacted in 
this county, — which is justly prized as a great advantage over our 
neighbours. Brora being a sub-post-office, a neat receiving-house 
was built by subscription from the inhabitants, and the Mail- Coach, 
drawn by two horses, passes and repasses daily. A pier was con- 
structed at the harbour, at the sole expense of the late Duke of 
Sutherland, when the coal and salt works were in operation, and 
which affords secure shelter to coasting vessels. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church, which is the only 
place of public worship, is conveniently situated in the centre of 
the population, the whole inhabitants, with the exception of the 
dwellings of shepherds, being within less than three miles of it. It 
was built about the year 1770 ; and enlarged and thoroughly repair- 
ed thirteen vears ago. It mav contain from 800 to lOOOindividu- 



clyneT 161 

als. The sittings are free, as is the case all over the Duke of Suth- 
erlaDd's property, in this county and in Ross-shire. The manse, 
which was built about the same time with the church, has also re- 
ceived an addition, and it is now a handsome and commodious re- 
sidence. The glebe contains 12 acres of rich soil. The hill 
rights belonging to it were lately exchanged for an equivalent of 
arable land, which is admitted to be far more convenient and ad- 
vantageous for the minister. The stipend is 93 quarters barley, 
and L. 23 in money, including the allowance for communion ele- 
ments. The average number of communicants is 65. 

A catechist is paid by voluntary contributions from the people. 
He perambulates the parish frequently, visiting every family, and 
is a most useful and important assistant to the minister. 

Collections are made periodically for the Inverness Infirmary, 
the four Assembly schemes, and other public charities, amounting 
in all to from L. 12 to L. 20. 

Education. — There are two regular schools, exclusive of private 
teachers, — the parish school, and one in the Doll, which is support- 
ed by the Glasgow Auxiliary Gaelic School Society. The ordinary 
branches of education are taught From the number and position 
of the population, the minister considers two additional schools ne- 
cessary, — one at Brora, and the other at Badinellan. The pa- 
rochial teacher has the maximum salary, and L. 2 Sterling in com- 
pensation for a garden. The fees are very moderate and not well 
paid, seldom exceeding L. 12. His accommodation is comfortable, 
and on a sufficiently liberal scale. Most of the rising generation 
attend school for some period of the year, and are so far in the way 
of receiving the benefits arising from a moral and religious educa- 
tion. There is also a female school at Brora, endowed by the 
Duke of Sutherland, where girls are taught to sew, make their own 
dresses, and other needle-work. 

Library, — A circulating library was established, some years ago, 
among the families on the coast side, which is still in active operation, 
and by means of which they have access to the newest publications 
for payment of a few shillings annually. 

Charitable Institutions. — There are no public charitable institu- 
tions in this parish, nor have the poor the benefit of any charitable 
bequests ; consequently, they are dependent for their subsistence 
on the generosity of the landlord — the liberality of their neigh- 
bours who are in better circumstances, and the pittance afforded 
them from the proceeds of the parochial contributions. 



162 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

Tbe annual collections at the church amount to L.20 and up- 
wards ; and, besides a regular donation of L.6 from the Noble pro- 
prietor, there are extra collections^ when the parishioners of all 
ranks contribute liberally. 

The paupers on the roll are about 120, and the average allow^ 
ance to each may be stated at 5s. In seasons of scarcity, the poor 
go about in the parish, and seldom leave it ; but it is absolute ne- 
cessity that compels them to go beyond their own threshold, for 
relief from others. 

A Savings Bank was established for the whole county about six 
years ago, and a branch of it is in each parish. Considerable sums 
were deposited, and the institution has already been of incalculable 
advantage to the community, affording, during the late pressing 
seasons, a relief from the savings of more prosperous times. 

Markets. — A market is held at Brora in the month of October, 
which is attended by the people of this and the neighbouring pa- 
rishes. Shopkeepers come from a distance, and erect tents to dis- 
play their commodities, and they usually meet with a ready sale. 
A great many cattle and horses change owners, it being the last 
market of the season. The five inns in the village used to be 
crowded on this occasion, besides a great many tents in the mar- 
ket for the retail of whisky ; but the Total Abstinence Societies, 
which have been formed of late, have had a miraculous effect in 
improving the tastes and habits of the people in this respect. 
There is not a third part of the spirits used now which were used for- 
merly, and the innkeepers complain loudly that their calling is gone. 

Fuel — The ordinary fuel is peat procured from mosses in the 
close neighbourhood, and the fishers collect coke from the shore 
under flood-mark. Coal is imported, costing from I6s. to 18s. 
per ton, and its use among the wealthier class is much on the in- 
crease. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
There is no district of country in Scotland where such an entire 
change has taken place in the habits, character, and pursuits of the 
inhabitants, as in this and the other parts of the county forming 
the estate of Sutherland. They were quite a rural, a moral, and a 
happy population, inhabiting beautifully romantic and sequestered 
glens in the interior — far removed from the bustle of the world. 
Strangers to its allurements and luxuries, they passed their lives, 
generation following generation, in the same localities, but without 
ambition to better their circumstances, or a desire to improve 



CLYNE. 163 

their possessions. All passed happily and without care, so long as 
the seasons proved propitious, and that the produce of their stock 
was sufficient to pay the landlord and to afford the means of sub- 
sistence on their simple fare ; but when the winter storms length- 
ened into spring, and the mill-dew and the early frosts destroyed 
the hopes of the harvest, then indeed came the period of distress ; 
and it is not too much to say that they suffered the very extreme 
of want, which often produced contagious fevers and other mortal 
diseases. This was submitted to, however, in silence and with pious 
resignation : no tumults nor risings against the constituted autho- 
rities, who they well knew could not ward off the general calamity. 
Thus situated, helpless and without resources, their only course 
was an appeal to the compassion of their natural protector, the 
landlord, and this was never done in vain. He required often to 
import meal equal in value to the rent of two or more years, and 
generally leaving a large balance never to be recovered. This state 
of things could not continue, while the rest of the world were mov- 
ing ahead, and making rapid advances in improvement; conse- 
quently, the great and deeply important measure was resolved on 
to remove the population to the coast-side, where they would be 
placed near the sea — become fishermen or artificers, and thus be 
able to benefit by the many and inexhaustible resources which 
Providence has placed within their reach. At this time, there were 
but few bred tradesmen in the country. When a man found it ne- 
cessary to renew his rude dwelling, he called the neighbours to 
his assistance, and it was only the work of a few days to complete 
it. Every man was his own carpenter, for few implements were re- 
quired, and he had little to do with them. One- blacksmith served 
a district. The shoemaker and the tailor migrated from house to 
house, receiving their victuals and a small pittance of wages in 
return for their labour. There was scarcely a cart or a plough in 
the country, excepting on the larger farms. No man thought of 
increasing or improving his tillage or pasture lands by trenching 
or draining. But let any one with an impartial and unprejudiced 
eye examine the present condition of the inhabitants. Their well- 
built and neatly kept cottages and enclosed gardens far exceed 
what many tacksmen in former days paying from L. 50 to L. 100 
possessed. Every individual in the family has some resource in a 
trade or other manual labour — all is a stirring scene of industry 
and positive comfort The father and the sons cultivate the lot, if 
not tradesmen; while the females are engaged with household 
work, or preparing nets for the next herring season. 



164 SUTHniLANDSHIRE. 

Persons who are ignorant of the character of the Highlanders, 
and many who have never seen the country, have ventured to de- 
scribe them as indolent, idle, and unprofitable members of the 
community. A more gross fallacy has never been uttered. They 
are a quiet, sober, brave, and a moral race ; attached and confid- 
ing while kindly and honestly dealt by ; but reserved, stem, and 
unbending as their mountain rocks, wherever they suspect injustice, 
or lose faith in the acts and professions of their superiors. The 
extensive and perfect improvements on the estate of Sutherland 
bear evidence of their activity, industry, and conGdence in their 
landlord, when their energies are properly directed. Those who 
reside in the country can testify, that it is a rare occurrence to 
meet with an individual the worse of liquor, except occasionally at 
markets. The naval and military annals of the nation record their 
bravery, where they have distinguished themselves in many a des- 
perate onset. The faithful labours of our clergy have been bless- 
ed by Providence in rendering them pious and moral ; and their 
character may be summed up in these few words, — that they fear 
God and honour the Queen. 

October 1840. 



PARISH OF TONGUE- 

PRESBYTERY OF TONGUE, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. HUGH MACKAY MACKENZIE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — This district, previous to its erection into a separate 
parish in 1724, and while it constituted but a portion of the ori- 
ginal parish of Durness, was called Kintail, — a term signifying 
the head of (he sea^ (Ceann an fsdil). The nameVas derived 
from the arm of the sea, which, for many miles, stretches inland 
into the parish from the Northern Ocean. The modern name 
(Tongue^) which at 6rst was written (Tung^) is in all probability 
derived from a narrow neck of land jutting out transversely for a 
considerable distance into the Kyle near the House of Tongue, 
which bears a resemblance to a protruded tongue. The Gaeh'c 



TONGUE. 165 

as well as the English name of that organ justifies this deriva- 
tion* 

Boundaries^ Extent. — It would seem by the record of erection, 
that the boundaries of this parish extended from Torrisdale, in the 
east, to the water of Polla, in the west ; from the Whiten -head, in 
the north, to the great deer forest, in the south. By use and wont, 
however, these boundaries are greatly contracted on the west, in 
which direction the parish is considered now only to extend to the 
top of the Moin or the Ben Hope mountain range. The parish 
of Farr is contiguous on the east and south-east, and the parish 
of Durness on the west and south-west. On the north, it is bound- 
ed by the Northern Ocean. Its figure is irregular, somewhat re- 
sembling, as is mentioned in the former account, a spherical tri- 
angle. The extreme length from north to south is 20 miles ; ave- 
rage 15. The extreme breadth from east to west is 12 miles; 
average 8. As nearly as can be computed, its superficial extent 
is 140 square miles. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of the parish 
is mountainous. In topographical character, however, it is divid- 
ed into two districts, distinct from each other. The first embraces 
all that is peculiarly alpine, and is the principal part of the parish 
as to extent, population, culture, and beauty. It lies towards the 
west, and consists of the great valley of Tongue, formed by the 
arm of the sea already mentioned, with the streams which flow 
from the interior into the head of it. On either side of the bay, 
two mountain- ranges, rising abruptly and boldly from the ocean, 
stretch along its whole length, and continue taking nearly a paral- 
lel direction, till interrupted by a third range, stretching from east 
to west, which consists of the mountain of Ben Laoghal and its 
arms. The whole constitutes a semicircular chain of hills, appa- 
rently continuous, and gives to the valley the form of a spacious 
amphitheatre. The western range, commencing with Ben Hutig, 
which is 1345 feet high, is for some miles of nearly an uniform 
height, and somewhat monotonous, till it reaches its southern ex- 
tremity, when it suddenly terminates in the huge mountain of Ben 
IIo])e, 306 1 feet high. The eastern range is a series of rounded 
hills, not very lofty, rising above the bay sometimes abruptly, but 
in general receding so gently, as to afford scope for considerable 
cultivation on their sides. The Ben Laoghal range is the most 
picturesque. This noble hill, the queen of Highland mountains, 
occupies the central point of the whole semicircular chain ; there- 



16G SUTHEULANDSIIIRK. 

fore, from its position as well as from its romantic outlines, it is 
the most prominent and striking object in the whole scenery. At 
the southern extremity of a low extensive valley, it starts up ma- 
jestically to the height of 2508 feet, presenting towards its base an 
expanded breast of two miles in breadth, and cleft at its top into 
four massy towering and splintered peaks, standing boldly aloof from 
each other. These gradually diminish in height, one after the 
other. The highest stands proudly forward to occupy the fore- 
ground ; the rest recede a little, as if each were unwilling to protrude 
itself, from a conscious inferiority to its predecessor. As a graceful 
finish to its outlines, it stretches forth an arm on either side, as if to 
embrace condescendingly the other mountain ranges, which may 
well acknowledge it as chief, and which may readily be fancied as 
doing it homage. On a summer morning, or after a sweet summer 
shower, when the transparent mist is reposing on its bosom, or 
coiling among its peaks, the appearance of this hill is very beauti- 
ful, and often singularly fantastic. Within this great chain, there 
are various objects which constitute marked features in the sce- 
nery of the district. Amongst these, the Kyle occupies a promi- 
nent place, so studded with islands at its mouth, that, from some 
points of view, its connection with the ocean seems wholly inter- 
cepted. Towards its centre, the point of Tongue and a small is- 
land adjacent thereto, tend farther to charm and relieve the eye, 
by breaking in upon the continuous sheet of water. Another in- 
teresting and conspicuous object is the promontory of Castle Var- 
rich. It consists of a small hill range, running south and north;* 
rising gradually from the low ground at the foot of Ben Laoghal, 
and terminating at its northern extremity in a bold rock of consi- 
derable altitude, which is washed at its base by the water of the 
Kyle, and has its conical summit surmounted by a fine old ruin, 
which imparts a pleasing effect. Altogether, the scenery of this 
part of the parish is much and universally admired. The hand of 
man has undoubtedly done somewhat to embellish it ; but little, 
very little, to what might be effected. Even Macculloch, with all 
his antipathy to the north, has admitted, that, were the Moin, on 
west side of the Bay, to some extent planted, this place would not 
be exceeded in beauty by many parts of the Highlands. 

The second or eastern division of the parish is rather tame and 
monotonous. In the interior, this is partially relieved by loclis of 
various sizes, which are scattered with profusion in every direction^ 

and the ground, moreover, is of a softly unduLiting character ; the 

4 



TONGUE. 1C7' 

rocks being clothed with an almost unbroken surface of verdure 
and of heath. Towards the sea-coast, the country becomes crag- 
gy and fretted-like, uninteresting in its general aspect, and appa- 
rently barren. Yet in the midst of this district, when more closely 
examined, there will be found numerous little glens, bestringa rich 
soil and a large population. 

The coast is in general high and rocky, and round the promon- 
tory of the Whiten-head exceedingly bold and picturesque. The 
rocks are frequently intersected by creeks, and formed into 
caves and arches. The caves of Freasgail, which are described 
in the former Account- of this parish, have been noticed in the 
Account of the parish of Durness, in consequence of the mo- 
dern ideas regarding the boundaries of the two parishes. The 
islands are Eilean na naoimh^ (saint's island) — Eilean na roan, 
(seat island,) and the rabbit islands. Eilean na naoimh, situated 
close by the eastern coast of the parish, " had formerly a chapel 
and burial-place on it, the traces of which are still to be seen. 
On the south side of the island, the sea, after passing for several 
yards through a narrow channel, spouts up into the air, some- 
times to the height of thirty feet, through a hole in the rock, which, 
in shape and size, is like the moon at full, and a few seconds af- 
terwards, there is a discharge of water from the east side of the 
island, with a noise resembling the explosion of cannon." Eilean 
na roan is of considerable size, and has the appearance of two 
islands, particularly at high water. Part of it is scooped out into 
the form of a basin, in which the soil is very fertile, and cultivat- 
ed by a few small tenants. Its rocks are high and precipitous, 
and to the north side abound with deep narrow fissures, through 
which the wind rushes with great violence. As this wind, besides 
being sharp and piercing, is impregnated with saline matter, from 
its blowing across the ocean, or perhaps from carrying along with 
it the spray which dashes from off the rocks beneath, the natives 
take advantage thereof for economical purposes. In these fissures, 
they season their fish without using salt. On this north side also 
there is a spacious and elegant-looking arch, about 150 feet Fpan, 
and 70 feet broad. About the middle of the island, there is a largre 
circular hole, which has fallen in many years ago, and is supposed to 
communicate with the sea bv a subterranean cavern.* The Rabbit 
Islands, three in number, are farther within the mouth of the Bay 

* This Island is well worthy of heing visited by travellars who are desirous to sec 
the natural curiosities of the country. 



168 SUTHEllLANDSHIUE. 

than the former, and so in some measure removed from the raging of 
the ocean. The rocks are not very high. The soil is sandy, though 
covered with verdure. The present name of these islands sufficient- 
ly indicates who are their principal inhabitants. The ancient name 
was Eilean na Gaeil, the island of strangers, from the Danes bay- 
ing been said to have landed upon it. The principal bays are 
those of Torrisdale and Tongue ; the former is open and tem- 
pestuous, affording little or no shelter for vessels ; the latter is the 
Kyle, or arm of the sea, already noticed. Its length is about ten 
miles, the average breadth about a-mile and a-half. Its depth is 
nowhere great, and, from the shifting nature of its sand banks, na- 
vigation is difficult and often perilous. There is, however, good 
anchorage for ships of any burden at the Rabbit Islands, where they 
may ride with safety in storms from most directions. A fine road- 
stead is also to be found in its neighbourhood at Talmine, a pret- 
ty bay that branches off the west side of the Kyle. It has a smooth 
beach, and a fine bottom, — is much sheltered from the most tem- 
pestuous winds, — and commands a ready exit to the ocean. At 
present, it is one of the principal fishing stations on the coast. 
By the erection of quays, and by connecting the mainland with a 
small island lying close by on the north side, it might be made 
one of the most commodious harbours in the north. Almost op- 
posite to Talmine, on the east side of the Kyle, there is the creek 
of Sculomy, which at present shelters a few fishing-boats, but which 
an inconsiderable expense might render a safe station for many 
more. 

Meteorology. — Considering the latitude of this parish, its tem- 
perature is mild, and the climate is very salubrious, though the 
state of the atmosphere is in general extremely changeable. The 
heat is not so great in summer, nor the cold so intense in winter, 
as these seem to be in some of the southern parts of Scotland. 
Placed in a central position between the west and east coasts of 
the island, it is not visited by those frequent deluges of rain which 
are peculiar to the former, nor so exposed to those piercing blight- 
ing winds which prevail in the latlcr. The prevailing winds are 
the south-west and north-west. The severest storms are from 
the south-west, — the most frequent from the north-west. The 
prevalent distempers, as connected with the climate, are rheumatism 
and inflammatory complaints ; but more common than either are 
disorders of the stomach among the poorer people, arising from a 
diet often too scanty, and sometimes unwholesome. Luminous 






TONGUE. 169 

meteors are frequent The circle round the moon and the aurora 
borealis are sometimes brilliant in winter. When the latter is fiery 
and lurid, it is an invariable sign of stormy weather. The former 
generally prognosticates the same, so also does the fragment of a 
rainbow when seen in the north, called ^^ Boar's head." 

Hydrography, — The parish abounds with springs, which are ge- 
nerally perennial, but sometimes intermittent. Chalybeate springs 
are quite common. Sulphureous ones are found in several places, 
chiefly around Ben Laoghal, and there are some which seem to 
be a compound of both. None of these have been properly ana- 
lyzed, but some of the sulphureous seem of such strength, that, 
were they more accessible, they might be found medicinally of 
considerable service. Lochs are so numerous, that from a single 
eminence, which docs not command a view of the whole parish, I 
have counted more than 100. The most deserving of notice are 
the following : — Loch Maedie, in the southern extremity of the 
parish, which may be about six miles in circumference. Its ap- 
pearance is striking, from its margin being singularly indented 
by namerous little bays and projecting points of land, and from 
its bosom being studded with islands, on which grow trees of con- 
siderable size. Loch Diru lies at the foot of the Diru rock, 
which is a part of the west cirm of Ben Laoghal. The loch is two 
miles long, and the rock, which is nearly the same length, towers 
majesticallv above it to the height of 200 feet, — its brow adorned 
at pleasing intervals with solitary trees of birch and mountain-ash. 
This loch is one of the unobserved beauties of the parish, lying in 
a secluded spot, and inaccessible to any but the pedestrian. On 
the east and south-east sides of Ben Laoghal, there is a chain of 
lochs of considerable extent, called Lochs Cullisaid, Laoghal, 
Craggy, and Slam, which communicate with each other by nar- 
row fords or small rivulets. Loch Laoghal is the largest of the 
four, and, indeed, the largest in the parish, — being five miles long 
and upwards of a mile broad. There are two islands upon it, 
where wild-fowl nestle in great numbers. The verdure in its neigh- 
bourhood is rich. A few trees fringe its margin on the west side, 
and on the opposite there rises a hill of considerable height, green 
to the top, with a thriving birch- wood at its base. Loch Crag- 
gy is interesting, by commanding a fine profile view of Ben 
Laoghal. Were this chain connected by a road with Lochs 
Maedie and Diru, sweeping round the whole of Ben Laoghal, it 
would form a ride which, as regards loch and mountain scenery, 

SUTHERLAND. M 



170 8UTHERLANDSHIRE. 

could, for the same extent, be rarely surpassed in beauty. The 
rivers are, the Borgie, Rhians, and Kinloch ; none of them of 
much consequence. The Borgie (called in the former Account 
the Torrisdale) rises from Loch Slam, and, after separating this 
parish from that of Farr during the greater part of its course, falls 
into the sea on the west side of the Bay of Torrisdale. The 
Rhians and the Kinloch, neither of them more than two miles 
in length, fall into the head of the Kyle of Tongue, — the former 
on the east side of Castle Varrich, the latter on its west Cas- 
cades are numerous, and some of them pretty, though on a small 
scale. 

Geology. — The principal rock in the parish is gneiss. It con- 
stitutes the mountain-range of Ben Hutig and the Moin, likewise 
the smaller range of Castle Varrich, and prevails throughout the 
whole extent of the eastern division of the parish. Its mineral 
character seems to be the common ternary compound of quartz, 
felspar, and mica ; though not unfrequently hornblende is sub- 
stituted for the latter. The aspect of this rock varies much from 
the component minerals, and, from the size of these minerals, as 
distinct concretions* It is regularly stratified, though in some 
places, as towards the east, this is not so evident, from the strata 
being intersected by quartz and granite veins, and disturbed and 
contorted by what appears, in some cases, the action of fire, and, 
in others, the action of water. The direction of the strata on the 
west of Tongue Bay is south-east, at an angle of 20^ On the 
east of the Bay their direction is west-south-west, at an angle of 
40% with the exception of a small district at Sculomy, where the 
direction is south-south-east, and the angle 60°. In various places 
garnet is found imbedded in this' rock. Ben Hope is composed 
of mica-slate, being part of a very extensive district where this rock 
is developed. A stripe of the same formation isr also found at the 
shore side, on the west side of the bay, stretching from a point op- 
posite the village of Tongue to a place called Portvasgo, near the 
Rabbit Islands. It connects with, and conforms to, the gneiss of 
the mountain range above it, — the strata being in the same direc- 
tion and at the same angle. The rocks of Eilean na roan are a 
fine specimen of the conglomerate, which rests upon red sandstone. 
The sandstone is only to be seen in the north side of the island, 
stratified in the direction west-south-west, at an angle of 10°; at 
which point the junction of the two formations is very distinct and 
beautiful. The mountain- range, stretching along the east side of 

3 



TONGUE. 17r 

the Kyle from Coldbacky to'Cnoc- Craggy, consists of conglome- 
rate capping the gneiss, and resting horizontally on its fractured 
beds. The junction in this case is quite visible in some exposed 
rocks at Coldbacky. Red sandstone has also been discovered at 
one point in this mountain-range, near Dalcharn. The whole 
mountain of Ben Laoghal is sienite, '* which consists of a light 
flesh-red felspar, grey quartz, and black or dark-green hornblende, 
with minute and sparingly disseminated crystals of brown sphene. 
In several places the quartz almost disappears, — the rock then be* 
coming a binary compound of felspar and hornblende. The struc- 
ture of this sienite on the small scale is small granular, while on 
the large it is disposed in a most distinctly tabular manner. In- 
deed, few localities can be pointed out in Scotland where this 
beautiful rock arrangement is more characteristically developed. 
From various parts of its summit the entire structure may be traced 
with the utmost precision, and the several tabular concretions fol- 
lowed, with little variation, throughout its whole extent. The la- 
teral planes of the tabular concretions are in general nearly paral- 
lel, and exhibit an almost polished surface. This mountain might, 
if other circumstances rendered it expedient, be wrought exten- 
sively for building materials. Such would be attended with but 
little diflBculty as far as the raising of the stone is concerned, while 
the tabular form is so regular, that, for many purposes, very little 
dressing would be requisite."* Black manganese ore has been 
found on the top of Ben Laoghal. Bog-iron ore is very common. 
Granite boulders are frequent about Tongue village. Whence 
they have come, is a problem not easy to solve. The prin- 
cipal alluvium is peat, which covers a great proportion of the pa- 
rish : a quantity of fir-wood is found imbedded in it. The soil, 
which is, or has been, under cultivation, is in some places a black 
rich loam ; in others a sandy loam ; but, perhaps, the most com- 
mon is a soil compounded of gravel and peat, with an admixture 
either of clay or sand. 

Zoology. — The zoology of the parish is such as is common to 
the whole of this north coast, on which the various species of 
quadrupeds, birds, and fishes are numerous. Game of almost 
every description is to be found in the parish, but not in such 
abundance as formerly, owing, it is supposed, to the extensive 
moor-burnings upon the sheep farms. Fishing upon lakes and 

• Cunningham *s Geognosy of Sutherland, — a work to which the writer is much 
indebted in drawing up this article. 



1 72 SUTHERLANOSHIRE. 

rivers has also fallen off; to account for which, many opinions have • 
been entertained, which at best are mere conjectures. The fresh- 
water fishes generally used at table are, salmon, grilse, trout, and 
char. Those got on the coast are chiefly herring, cod, ling, had- 
dock, whiting, skate, and flounder. In September, quantities of 
coal-fish are caught close to the rocks. Turbot and tusk are oc- 
casionally found. The upper part of the Kyle abounds with shell- 
fish, which ate easily gathered, as the sea ebbs a considerable dis- 
tance. Mussels and spout-fish of excellent quality are to be had; 
but cockles are the most abundant of all. These are of various 
sizes and colours. All of them, however, are rich and delicious 
when in season, which is from April to September. They are 
highly relished by strangers, who are loud in their praises ; and ' 
they are an invaluable blessing to those within reach of them, 
who, during the summer months, use them daily as an article of 
food. 

Botany, — The flora of this parish is not known to contain any 
plants peculiar to itself, or such as are very rare in other places. 
Perhaps the following are among those most deserving of notice. 
Some of them, though rare in this parish, are common in other 
parts of this country. 

Betula nank Fragaria vesca Nymphaea alba 

Carex hirta Habenaria viridis Oxytropis uralensis 

— —- incurva Hyacinthus non-scripius Primula Scotica 

-limosa Juniperus communis Saxifraga oppositifolia 

Chcrleria scdoides Lamium album Silene inflata 

Cynoglossum officinale Lislcra ovata Veronica serpyllifoHa 

Digitalis purpurea Lycopodium clavatum Vicia Cracca. 

Dryas octopetala ■ • alpinum 

Festuca bromoides Mclampyrum pratcnse 

None of the native plants are now employed for culinary pur- 
poses, though formerly mugwort and nettle were made use of in 
this way. Ragwort is sometimes used as an emollient ; and the 
leaves of ribwort plantain are successfully applied to fresh wounds. 
Heather is employed to dye green ; ragwort to dye yellow ; the 
lichen obtained on stones, to dye red-brown ; and alder bark, to 
dye black, which, by the addition of copperas, is effectually fixed, 
and made to assume a still deeper hue. The native arborescent 
species now to be met with, are not numerous, and for the most part 
rather stinted in their growth. Betula alba (birch) predominates. 
Salix alboy S. cinereaf (white ^and grey willow,) Corylus Avellana 
(hazel,) and Pyrus aucuparia (the mountain-ash,) come next, in 
nearly equal quantities. Alnus glutinosa (alder,) and Prunusspi-- 
nosa (sloe,) fringe the water courses. Ilex aquifolium (holly) is 



TONGUE. 173 

frequent in rocky burns and cascades. Quercus robur (oak) is to 
be seen in a few places ; but, from its being exposed to be trodden 
down by cattle, it only attains the size of a trifling shrub. It may 
be mentioned, that Ulex EuropcBus (whin) and Cytisus Scoparius 
(broom) grow freely in several places; but both were probably in- 
troduced about sixty years ago. The natural wood, which, for a 
long time, was neglected and destroyed, and in consequence fasit 
dwindling away, has of late years been well kept and thinned. 
The only plantations of any extent in the parish are those around 
the House of Tongue. There are specimens to be seen here of 
beech, elm, ash, and lime, which, for size and beauty, may vie with 
any in the north. The greater part of these plantations are of re- 
cent date, composed of a mixture of hard-wood, fir, and plane- 
tree, for all of which the soil seems well adapted. Larch and 
spruce fir thrive much better than the Scotch. Altogether the 
plantations are in a most flourishing condition, and prove beyond a 
doubt the advantages that would accrue to such a country as this 
from their greater extension. Besides beautifying the scenery, they 
would ameliorate the climate, and become a fruitful source of re- 
venue. The ordinary fruit-trees thrive well when they obtain the 
support and shelter of a good wall. 

II. — Civil History. 

Distinyuished Families, — This parish is the birth-place, and was 
the residence of the most of the noble family of Reay. Some of 
these signalized themselves for prowess and skill in the military 
operations of their own times : among whom may be mentiohed 
Donald first Lord Reay, who so distinguished himself in the wars 
of Gustavus Adolphus. Tradition ascribes to him most singular 
superhuman powers of body. There were other members of this 
family who, though not distinguished as public characters, devoted 
their influence to the welfare of their people, by whom their me- 
mories were cherished for several generations, for intelligence, 
patriotism, and exemplary piety. A full account of them will be 
found in Mackay's History of the House and Clan of Mackay. 

Ministers, — Though erected in 1724, this parish was not sup- 
plied with a minister till 1726, when Mr George Mackay was ap- 
pointed, who only lived two years. His successor was Mr Walter 
Ross, a man of fine preaching talents, but whose reserved man- 
ners and secluded habits were not calculated to gain upon the 
rough, frank Highlander. He occupied the parish till 1763, when 
he resigned. After his resignation Mr John Mackay was ap- 



SUTHEIILANDSHIUE. 
174 

pointed, who, being of a weak and sickly constit^^^^^^^^^ was unable 
1 hour efficiently in the pansh, and only lived m the charge for 
^^ In 1769, he was succeeded by Mr William Mackenzie. 

As hSScumbencyVorins an era in the history of this parish, his 
deserves special notice in such an account as this. A native of 
R^^-shire soon after his license, he came to officiate as missionary 
in the neighbouring parish of Farr; and though possessing highly 
lar talents, a liberal education, and prospects of advancement 
eSewhere through influential friends, yet, having formed a strong 
attachment to his adopted country, he accepted a call to this pa- 
rish when vacant by the death of Mr Mackay. He found it in a 
deplorable state of religious ignorance. Scarce could one be found 
to repeat the Shorter Catechism. There was only one elder with- 
in the bounds, and it was impossible to fix on others, bearing the 
necessary religious character, who could be ordained to this office 
so as to constitute a session. The sanctity of the Lord's day was 
irrossly violated by persons forming bargains, going and coming to 
the house of God. A general apathy to the means of grace was 
manifest ; and several gross practices, the relics of a barbarous 
aire, were common at funerals and festivals. 

With these evils to contend against, he entered on his charge 
with zeal and energy, and an untiring devoted ness to the interests 
of hb flock. But, for three years, he seemed to labour in vain, and 
the feeling of his heart was, " Woe is me that I sojourn in Mesech." 
At last, the time to visit this portion of Zion was come. One day 
he took occasion from the pulpit to remonstrate plainly and faith- 
fully with the people, for their several sins ; declared his own ar- 
dent hopes of being instrumental in reforming them, when he en- 
tered the parish ; the bitterness of his feelings in his disappoint- 
ment hitherto, and his prayer to God, that were this to continue 
He would remove him from amongst them. Overpowered by his 
feelings, he could proceed no longer. For the first time, the con- 
gregation were seen bathed in tears, and overwhelmed with a feel- 
ing of shame, and from that day there was the most marked change ; 
a truly fruitful revival was the consequence. The people showed 
all docility in receiving the instructions of their pastor ; the house 
of God was thronged by persons from the most distant corners of 
the parish ; respect and attention were shown to the ordinances 
and duties of religion ; barbarous usages were gradually laid aside ; 
ami under his affectionate, glowing, and faithful ministry, there 
spranjT up a race of intelligent Christians, so that he was soon en- 



TONGUE. 176 

abled to form a throng session of elders, who, considering their 
station in society, were ornaments in the church. Likewise under 
his fostering care, several young men were reared for the minis* 
try, all of whom, with scarce an exception, he had the pleasure of 
seeing the instruments of extensive usefulness. 

This honoured servant of the Lord laboured for sixty-five years 
among a devotedly attached people, being able to preach and ad- 
minister the sacraments to the very last. He died in 1834, at the 
advanced age of ninety-six. His people commonly spoke of him 
as *^ the great minister," and testified their esteem and affection 
by erecting a handsome monument to his memory. 

Parochial Register. — There was no register kept, previous to 
the year 1775. From that period till 1797 there was a record of 
births and marriages regularly made up ; but the person who was ses- 
sion-clerk at that time became deranged, which was never suspect- 
ed till it was incontestibly proved, by his being found one morning 
busily employed in the churchyard distributing papers on the grave- 
stones, with the sanguine hope of raising an army from the dead. 
On examination, these papers were discovered to be the parish 
register, so torn as to be completely useless. From 1797 mar* 
riages and births were registered, but not in a permanent form, 
and many of the loose sheets have been lost through the careless • 
ness of clerks. However, since 1816, a correct register has been 
regularly kept. 

Antiquities. — The most striking ruin is Castle Varrich, stand- 
ing on the promontory already mentioned, bearing the same name. 
It is a square building, which originally consisted of two stories, 
the first arched with stone, the second covered with wood. Its 
dimensions inside are not great ; the walls are thick, and still of a 
considerable height Tradition is silent as to its history, on which 
subject its name has given rise to various conjectures; but most 
probably the name is merely derived from a Gaelic word signifying 
the castle on the eminence. The remains of sevefal circular toweis 
are to be seen, extending from the coast to the interior, which, from 
the circumstance of one being always in sight of another, are sup- 
posed to have been erected for the purpose of conveying telegra- 
phic information when an enemy threatened to invade the country. — 
Several subterranean caves have been found in the parish, long and 
narrow in their construction, with a small entrance. From various 
circumstances they appear to be artificial, and were probably occu- 



176 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

pied by the natives, in warlike times, as places of retreat. The 
only tumuli to be seen, are at a place jcalled Druim na Coup, where, 
as has been noticed in the former account, a battle was fought be- 
tween the Mackays and the Sutherlands. Upon the same ground, 
or nearly so, a party of French were seized in 1746, going south 
with gold to aid the rebels. The French vessel in which they 
were conveyed, being pursued off this coast, ran for safety into 
the Bay of Tongue, and the party, carrying their valuable treasure, 
landed at Melness, where for a night they were protected by a 
gentleman of kindred sentiments. Next day, his son went to con* 
duct them by the safest route through the country, but, as soon 
as their character and object were known, they were pursued 
by a band of natives from several neighbouring places. When 
the French came to Druim na Coup, finding that these were in 
chase of them, and hearing the beating of a drum resounding from 
the cliffs of Ben Laoghal, indicating the approach of soldiers from 
the south, they at once surrendered. Much of the gold was lost, 
being probably thrown into a deep loch in the neighbourhood, but 
a considerable quantity was appropriated by those who led on the 
pursuit. A few gold coins have since been found at a conside- 
rable distance from Druim na Coup. 

III. — Population. 

In 17.55, the population by return to Dr Webster was 1093 
1791, . ... 1439 

1831, by Government census, , 2030 

1838, .... 2080 

Of these 956 were males; 1124 were females. In 1791 it is 
stated that the births were 47, and marriages 17. Since 18S1, 
births have averaged 44, and marriages 1 1. It thus appears that, 
in a population of 1439, there were more births and marriages, es- 
pecially the latter, than there are now in a population of 2080. 
The probable solution of this strange fact is, that the population, 
having increased till it has become a burden on the land at pre- 
sent cultivated, the subdividing of crofts having been prohibited 
and the ordinary sources of industry by sea and land having, for 
some time, cither proved unproductive or being shut up, the young 
of both sexes felt that they could not marry without running the 
hazard of being soon exposed to hardships and want. When mar- 
riages decrease, births of course share the same fate. 

The Duke of Sutherland, the only nobleman connected with 
the parish as proprietor, has a residence in it— the House of 
Tongue, which he occasionally occupies for a few days in autumn, 



TONGUE. 177 

ivben visiting his extensive domains in the north. Part of it is in- 
habited by his Grace's factor. There are three substantial resi- 
dent sheep-farmers ; a medical practitioner, whom the proprietor 
encourages by giving a free house and L. 60 annually ; and a fish- 
ery officer. The peasantry reside in hamlets, and when a road 
passes through, the houses are arranged in a straight line on the 
one side, each standing on the croft of land attached to it. 244 
pay rent^ There are about 116 families, besides, who are mere 
cottars, having no land, in the majority of cases without any trade, 
and depending for their sustenance on a little day labour and on 
the kindness of their neighbours, who often give them patches of 
their own small crofts for raising a few potatoes. There are 4 
carpenters, 10 masons, 8 tailors, 9 shoemakers, 3 smiths, and I 
watchmaker. There are 6 fatuous, none insane, 2 dumb, and 
none who were blind from birth. 

LiOnguage. — The language of the peasantry is Gaelic; in it 
they invariably converse with one another, but, owing to the influx 
of persons from the south, the influence of schools, and the fre- 
quency with which they go south in quest of labour, English is 
generally understood by the young, and spoken by many of them 
with considerable accuracy. 

Character of the People, — The young of both sexes are ambi- 
tious to dress well, so as to make a respectable appearance on 
Sabbaths and holidays. This is a laudable feeling, though it 
sometimes leads to extravagance, by inducing them to expend their 
hard- won earnings in sacrificing comfort to occasional show. 
When dressed in their best attire they are allowed to be a fine-look- 
ing peasantry. At the late Duke of Sutherland's funeral, when 
numbers from the whole county were invited to attend, and direct- 
ed to line the road, arranged according to their respective parishes, 
as the procession passed by, the men from Tongue attracted ge- 
neral notice for their superior dress and appearance. It might 
hence be expected that their comforts were also superior; but no. 
They are, indeed, not worse ofi* than their neighbours in this re- 
spect. The general standard is, however, wretchedly low. No 
doubt a few of them are comfortable, but the generality seldom 
can rise above the commonest necessaries of life ; and it is painful 
to think of how some eke out a subsistence. The consequence is, 
that poverty is gradually manifesting its baneful effects upon the 
intellects and morals of naturally a fine and generous people. 
The taste for music, dancing, and public games, is much on the 



178 SUTHERLANDSHIRR. 

decline, and few or no traces are to be seen of the poetic talent 
and sprightly wit for which their ancestors, in common with most 
Highlanders, were distinguished. The imaginative powers are 
crushed under the continued pressure of a poverty that impels 
the mental energies in the low direction of what shall we eat and 
what shall we drink ; and the habits of reflection and deep->thinking 
are exchanged for a sharp- sigh tedness in looking after their little 
secular interests. It is impossible that circumstances which have 
thus operated on their intellectual^character, should not also aflect 
their morals and religious feelings. They have done so, though 
not so greatly as might be expected ; and it is saying much to 
their credit, that there is so little amount of crime, and so much 
security for person and property. There were never but two from 
this parish tried at a justiciary court, one not a native, and the 
other only for a breach of trust. The people are kind and peace- 
able, patient undbr adversity, submissive to laws, and respectful to 
authorities. They possess a good deal of religious knowledge, 
and much veneration for religious ordinances and usages. It is 
rare now to find one who cannot repeat the Shorter Catechism, 
and the writer knows not that such a thing exists among the na- 
tive peasantry as a family without the daily worship of God. Many 
among them are decided Christians. The generality, it is to be 
feared, rest satisfied, however, with acquiring vague ideas, and en- 
gaging in empty forms; while it is matter of painful experience 
that the downward earthly tendency of their thoughts, induced so 
much by poverty, has a fearful eflect in deadening their minds to 
religious impressions. It is manifest, also, that intercourse with 
the ungodly when south, and at the herring-fishing in Caithness, 
together with the desecration of the Lord's day by travellers from 
other places, (a sin till lately happily unknown), are very injurious 
to their morals and religious sentiments. Laziness is no longer 
characteristic of the people. They are alive to the advantages of 
industry. In proof of which many of them annually go south, be- 
cause so little encouragement is given them at home. Poaching 
is unknown, and smuggling has been effectually put down through 
the exertions of the proprietor. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres in cultivation is 
about 1000. It may safely be said, that three times this num- 
ber might be added with a profitable application of capital. 
There are 200 acres of plantation, and fully 500 acres under na- 



TONGUE. 179 

tural wood. The extent of the latter is not easily ascertained, 
from the irregular manner in which it is disposed. 

RenL — The real rental of the parish is L. 2282, ISs. lid., of 
which letters pay L. 757, lis. dd. ; and large fiirmers L. 1525, 
2s. dd« The average rent of arable land per acre is L. 1. 

Wages. — Tradesmen are allowed 2s. a-day, and day-labourers 
Is. 6d. in summer, and Is. in winter. 

The raw produce which is offered for sale is trifling. Those 
who do sell, are regulated by market-prices. Very superior 
Cheviot sheep are reared upon the targe farms, which are highly 
esteemed, and fetch high prices in the southern markets. The 
small tenants rear the black-faced breed, or more generally 
a cross between it and the Cheviot. From want of full feeding, 
their pasture being limited and generally overstocked, both their 
sheep and their cattle are stinted in their growth. A real High - 
land pony can now seldom be seen. The system of farming upon 
the crofts is decidedly bad. The tenants, besides endeavouring 
to keep more cattle than they can properly feed, employ a rota- 
tion of potatoes, bear, and oats, by which the land, thus constant- 
ly cropped, is so exhausted, that in many places the force of 
manure cannot now make it yield an adequate return. Besides, 
it is seldom properly drained or fenced, so that in winter it is 
commonly very wet, and injured by the poaching of cattle. As a 
proof of the deteriorating effects of this system of husbandry, it 
may be mentioned, that while the land cultivated by the largo 
farmers will yield on an average seven returns in grain crops, the 
small tenants seldom obtain above four returns of bear, and as to 
oats, they do not calculate upon more than double the seed. The 
potato crop is that alone which gives a really remunerating 
return. The large farmers have leases of nineteen years' duration. 
Small tenants have only one year's tenure of their land, which is 
certainly a discouragement to them in improving their lots. 

Quarries. — The only quarries that have been wrought are on 
the Melness, or west side of the Bay of Tongue, a flag quarry 
at Portvasgo, and a slate quarry at Talmine. Both are of tho 
mica-slate formation. They have been wrought to a considerable 
extent, and have been found very useful for several country pur- 
poses. The expense of quarrying, however, is too great to make 
this a profitable trade, or to admit of much export, and according- 
ly it has of late been almost discontinued. 

i^wAeriM.— There is a salmon-fishing upon the water of Borgie, 



180 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

where on an average 2000 fish are caught yearly. The herrings 
tishery is that which has been carried on most extensively in the 
parish. At one time it promised to be profitable ; of late, how- 
ever, it has turned out a ruinous speculation, as the annexed ac* 
counts will show. 

In 1833, boaU fishing, 30— barrels cured, 3538 — average per boat, 118 
}QS5, do. 64 do. 6304 do. 984 

1839, do. 68 do. 1425 do. 21 

1840, do. 68 do. 1233 do. 18 

Raw Produce, — 

Produce of grain of all kinds, . « - L. 84^ 

potatoes and turnips, - - - 1939 

meadow and cultivated hay, ... 500 

land in pasture, rating at Ids. per cow, and at 2s. 6d. per ewe or 

full-grown sheep, - - - - 3080 

gardens, .... . 140 

thinnings of woods and plantations, - - - 60 

fisheries, sea and river, ... 1300 

quarries, • - - - .20 

miscellaneous produce, viz. fuel, sea-weed, and cockles, - - 541 

L. 11,030 

Manufactures. — From twenty to thirty tons of kelp were annually 
manufactured in this parish until 1832; but since then, as its place 
has been supplied by cheaper substitutes, the price has suffered 
such a depression as to render it no object for employing labour- 
ers. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Means of Communication. — There is no market-town in the pa- 
rish ; the nearest is Thurso, in the county of Caithness, distant 
forty-five miles. There is a post-oflRce in the village of Tongue, 
and mails run three times a-week to Thurso, and twice a-week to 
Golspie. There is also a post to Durness, whose days of arriving 
and starting correspond to those of the Golspie mail. The vehi- 
cle from Golspie carries three passengers ; that from Thurso car- 
ries four inside and four outside. A lighter vehicle, however, runs on 
this latter line during winter, which only acconimodates five passen- 
gers. The length of roads in the parish is d9| miles. Of these, 1 1 
are Parliamentary, 14| county trust roads, and 14 private tenantry 
roads. They are kept in excellent repair. The bay of Tongue 
is crossed by a ferry 1262 yards broad. In 1830-31, slip quays 
were built, and proper boats procured. This ferry, which is a 
great annoyance to travellers, might be shortened to a fourth of its 
present breadth, by constructing a mound between the point of 
Tongue, and the island adjacent thereto. As the water here is 
not very deep, nor the current strong, and as profusion of mate- 

4 _ 



TONGUE. 181 

rials lie ready at band, it is believed by many that such an under- 
taking would not be very expensive. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church is so situated as to be nearly 
equidistant from the several extremities of the parish. There are, 
however, two populous districts on either side of it, so remote, 
that few of the people can attend public worship. The Skerray 
district to the east, which contains a population of 630, is from 
seven to eleven miles distant from the church. The Melness dis- 
trict to the west, with a population of 690, is from four to eight miles 
distant, separated, moreover, by the arm of the sea, the crossing of 
which is always expensive and often impracticable. Each of these 
stand much in need of the labours of a resident minister. Mel- 
ness forms the chief part of a mission connected with part of the 
parish of Durness. The missionary is supported by the Society 
for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; and a church and manse 
were built by the late Duchess- Countess of Sutherland* 

The parish church was built in 1680, — was nearly rebuilt in 
1731, and repaired 1778. A few years ago, new doors were put 
in, and some of the pews a little improved. • It is seated for 520^ 
being just suflBcient accommodation for the proportion of the peo- 
ple who can conveniently attend. There are no seat rents. The 
pews were originally purchased by the parishioners, and continue 
the property of their descendants while they remain in the parish. 
In winter, when the people are all at home, the church is well fill- 
ed, and the people are diligent in attending the catechetical mi- 
nistrations of their pastor. There is one catechist chosen by the 
people, and supported chiefly by a small salary from the Society for 
Propagating Christian Knowledge. The number of elders are 
eleven, and of male heads of families in communion with the 
church 45. Collections are annually made for the General As- 
sembly's five schemes, and occasionally for other objects. There 
are no Dissenters, Seceders, Episcopalians, or Roman Catholics 
in the parish. 

The manse was built in 1787, and has never got a thorough 
repair ; a new substantial house is, however, to be commenced ear- 
ly this season, having been already contracted for. The stipend is 
L.150, with an allowance for communion elements. When the 
present incumbent entered on the charge, the glebe was of little 
value ; the hill-grazing was a share of an undivided common, and 
the little arable land was rig about with adjoining tenants. An 
excambion being obtained, and quantity given for quality, improve- 



182 SUTHERLANDSHIRE* 

fl 

ments have since been carried on at great expense, and now the 
glebe might probably fetch a rent of L.50 per annum. 

Education, — At present there are three schools in the parish ; 
the parochial, and two supported by the Educational Committee 
of the General Assembly. One of the Assembly's schools is at 
Skerray, the other at Melness. Last year there were three schools 
besides, — two supported by private subscription, which, for seve- 
ral causes, have since been suppressed, — the third was a Gaelic 
school, granted by the Gaelic School Society, which has been 
discontinued by the managers, though only two years in operation^ 
and particularly useful. When the schools were examined last 
spring, there were nearly 400 children in attendance. The 
schools at present in existence are efficiently conducted. The com- 
mon branches of education are taught in them all. The paro- 
chial teacher is qualified to teach mathematics, Latin, Greek, 
and French, but there are very few now who prosecute these stu- 
dies. His accommodation as to school-room, dwelling-house, ,and 
garden, is excellent. His salary is the maximum, but fees itre ill 
paid. The people in general are more alive now to the benefits 
of education than they have been, though still there is vast room 
for improvement. Irregularity in attendance, and want of proper 
school-books, from inability to buy them, are serious drawbacks 
to the proficiency of the scholars. There is one part of the Mel- 
ness side where an additional school is decidedly required. It is 
removed at a considerable distance from the place where the As- 
sembly school is situated, and is separated by a large rivulet, 
which, from want of a bridge, is, for the most part, impassable in 
winter. Were a school got for this locality, upwards of forty chil- 
dren might attend it. 

Literature, — Two years ago, a subscription library and a read- 
ing club were set on foot, through the strenuous and praiseworthy 
exertions of Mr Horsburgh, the local factor. The members of the 
library exceed 1 00. These, however, do not all belong to this pa- 
rish. Every member on admission pays 5s., and 2s. 6d. of yearly 
contribution. The number of volumes already amount to 455, 
consisting of a choice selection of books in theology, history, 
poetry, travels, memoirs, &c Many of them are donations re- 
ceived by Mr Horsburgh from his acquaintances in the south, and 
sent by others who have taken an interest in this promising insti« 
tution. The gentlemen of the club purchase new standard works, 
and, instead of exposing them to sale at the year's end, they gra- 



TONGUE. 183 

iuitously transfer them to the library, and thus, while the country 
people generally are benefited by them, the members of the dub, 
who are all likewise members of the library, have still access to 
them. This plan since its adoption has been warmly commended. 
The noble family of Sutherland are so satisfied of its value that 
they resolve to patronize it Th6 Duke and Duchess, their Com- 
missioner, and the Member of Parliament for the county, have se- 
verally requested to be admitted members of both library and club, 
and each propose making a handsome donation to the former. 
The donation of the Duchess, consisting of 32 volumes, has been 
already received. 

Savings Banks, — There is a branch in this parish of the Su- 
therland iSavings Bank, established in 18d4>, by the advice and 
under the direction of Mr Loch, M. P., Commissioner to the Duke 
of Sutherland. It extends over the whole county, and is divided 
into three general branches, which again are subdivided according 
to the parishes. The deposits and drawings in this parish since its 
commencement, are as follows : 

From February 1834, to 31st July 1834, 

do. 1835, do. 1835, 

do. 1836, do. 1836, 

do. 1^*37, do. 1837. 

do. 1838, do. 1838, 

do 1839, do. 1839, 

do. 1840, do. 1840, 

L 907 11 9 L.461 15 9 

The number of depositors at present is 35, composed chiefly 
of tradesmen, servants, and junior members of families. Four per 
cent, interest is given for sums under L.20. When the amount 
exceeds this sum, only 2 per cent, is allowed. 

Poor, — The average number of paupers for the last six years 
is 70. The funds for their relief are distributed yearly, and, as 
these are variable, the sum allotted to each cannot be permanent. 
The distributions to the different paupers range generally from 2s. 
to lOs., according to their peculiar circumstances. Church col- 
lections and an annual donation of L.6 from the Duke of Suther- 
land, which, united, amount on an average to L. 24, constitute 
the sole fund for their relief, at the disposal of the session. From 
this sum there are to be deducted small salaries for the kirk-ofiicer 
and session-clerk, and disbursements for assisting in the burial of 
those who die quite destitute. It is thus evident that the poor 
are mainly indebted for their support, not to the session funds, but 



Deposits. 


Drawings. 


L.151 11 5 




112 11 4 


L. 23 17 5 


182 18 5 


65 16 8 


89 3 


. 77 5 11 


80 15 4 


132 14 2 


103 14 1 


105 3 1 


187 11 


56 15 6 



184 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

to the every-day charities and kind offices of relatives and neigh- 
bours. Yet, trifling as the sum given by the session is, the de- 
mands on them are increasing, and it is not considered now nearly 
so degrading to receive their ^id as it was a few years ago. 

Besides those upon the poor's roll, there are a few who receive 
permanent charity in meal or otherwise, to the annual value of 
L.14, Is. 3d., granted originally by the late Duchess -Countess of 
Sutherland, and continued by his Grace the present Duke of 
Sutherland. Her Grace's kindness to aged widows and to re- 
spectable persons in reduced circumstances, was very considerate, 
and a most commendable trait in her character. It deserves to be 
noticed that, in 1837, a season of great scarcity in the Highlands, 
she gave meal to the poor of the parish to the value of about 
L.60, and supplied the small tenants with a great quantity at the 
purchase price, — the arrears of which have lately been remitted, 
amounting to about L. 200. The object of putting this meal to 
the accounts of the tenants was, not so much the expectation of 
ever realizing the money, as the desire that they should not feel 
themselves therein treated as paupers. 

Inns. — There are only two houses licensed to sell spirits. One 
of these is a neat comfortable inn in the village of Tongue, which 
was considered a large house when built twenty years ago, though 
now it is frequently found deficient in the necessary accommoda- 
tions. 

Fuel. — Peat is the fuel commonly used by all classes. From 
its long continued and rapidly increasing consumption, the labour 
and expense of procuring it is now very great; and the more com- 
fortable inhabitants seem resolved to purchase coal in future, as- 
sured that it will be -found less expensive. Free access to peat, 
however, is a mighty privilege to the common people, as it costs 
them nothing but their personal labour. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Many changes have taken place in the parish, since the former 
Account was drawn up. The first and most important is the in- 
troduction of sheep- farming. The character of this change will 
be variously estimated, as persons are disposed to look at one or 
other of its effects. That it has rendered this country more valu- 
able to proprietors cannot be questioned, — for certain it is, that in 
no other way could a great part of it be laid out to such advan- 
tage ; though it may fairly be questioned whether, by extending it 
too far, they have not injured themselves. If, however, we are to 



TONGUE. 186 

estimate this system by its bearing on the former occupiers of the 
soil, and by the circumstances into which it has brought their chil- 
dren, no friend of humanity can regard it but with the most pain- 
ful feelings. When introduced here, several hundreds, many of 
them of a grade quite superior to mere peasants, were driven from 
their beloved homes, where they and their fathers enjoyed peace 
and plenty. Some wandered to Caithness', others sought an asy- 
lum in the woods of America, but most, clinging with a passion to 
their native soil, located themselves by permission in hamlets near 
the shore. In these places the land, already occupied by a few, 
but now divided among many, was totally inadequate to the main- 
tenance of all, and iishing became their necessary resource. And 
thus, on a tempestuous coast, with no harbours but such as na- 
ture provided, and in a country inaccessible, from want of roads, 
to enterprising curers, were these people often necessitated to 
plunge into debt for providing fishing materials, and to en- 
counter dangers, immensely increased by their unavoidable igno- 
rance of navigation, in order to obtain subsistence and defray their 
rents. The consequences were such as might be expected. Po« 
verty soon overtook them, tending to keep alive their lacerated 
feelings, and rents, which became gradually extravagant, accumu- 
lated into a mass of arrears. 

While such was the condition of the people, the proprietor, un- 
der whose management these changes were effected, found him- 
self under the necessity of selling the inheritance of his fathers, 
and the late Duke of Sutherland became sole proprietor of the 
parish. This truly patriotic nobleman, fully alive to the evils which 
beset his new people, and the wants of this country, reduced the 
rents of the small tenants 30 per cent., and commenced a series 
of improven^ents, by opening up the country with excellent roads, 
at an enormous expense, and inducing public vehicles to run in se- 
veral directions ; by which, at once work was afforded for the people, 
and a stimulus given for a time to the herring-fishing.* Like- 
wise, with the laudable object of rendering the tenantry more com- 
fortable, they were enjoined about the same time to build new 
houses, all being upon the same plan ; and, encouraged by the 
prospect of work, they soon set about this undertaking, though the 
houses were upon a scale far too expensive for their slender means. 

* These iroprorcmenta were conducted by Mr John Horsburgh, late local factor, 
whose businesB ulents, sterling integrity, faithfulness to his employers, and attach- 
ment to the people and the country, rendered him one of the most judicious and po- 
pular of fiictors. 

SUTHERLAND. N 



186 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

In the meantime, the lamented death of the proprietor put a stop 
to improvements, and many of the people were, by the building of 
these very houses, more deeply than before plunged into debt. 
From this cause, from the failure of the fishing, and from a series 
of adverse seasons, arrears again accumulated to a great amount 

Upon the accession of the present Duke of Sutherland, his at- 
tention was arrested by this evil ; and, persuaded that, to reclaim 
these arrears, was impossible, without ruining his people, he deter- 
mined to cancel the whole. In this parish, the arrears for rent 
alone amounted to L.1582. This deed of princely generosity has 
not failed to make a suitable impression upon a people strongly 
susceptible of gratitude, and deserves to have a prominent place 
assigned it in any public account of the parish. After such con* 
duct, every one must feel that his Grace has the interest of his 
people deeply at heart. That their interest, however, may be 
really secured, it is absolutely necessary to open up for them sources 
of industry, to encourage such as are desirous to improve, and to 
' introduce a different system of agriculture from the present among 
the small tenants. 

Some of the large farms are susceptible of being extensively 
and profitably cultivated ; but the farmers, from the amount of 
capital they have already at stake, and from the shortness of their 
leases, in which there are no extensive improving conditions, are 
prevented from cultivating as they might, and as some feel in<* 
clined ; and the people are deprived of much work which they 
might otherwise have. And certainly it would be more satisfac- 
tory to see our labourers thus employed at home, than going to 
the south, where their morals are endangered ; where their ex- 
penses eat up a great proportion of their earnings ; and where, 
very frequently, they are disabled for a length of time by diseases 
caught in the wretched lodging-houses, to which they must have 
recourse, and whence they often carry infection to their native 
country. 

As to the agriculture of the small tenants, wretched as it is at 
present, it is capable of great improvement. The foundation of 
the evils now attending both it and them, is not the amount of 
rent, but the smallness of the crofts. This it is which debars a 
proper rotation, and which causes rents to be ill paid. And 
though, by the concurrence of favourable circumstances, and a 
powerful stimulus to the feelings, calling forth uncommon exer- 
tion on the part of the tenants, the rents may be defrayed once 



TONGUE. 187 

or twice, this cannot be expected to continue. For it must be 
evident, that when a people, depending mainly on the land for 
their sustenance, cannot be supported thereby more than seven or 
eight months, (which is the case in most seasons with the tenantry 
of this parish), they must expend whatever little money may be 
collected in different ways, in providing the staff of life during the 
remainder of the year. Were, however, the crofls of the tenants 
enlarged to twice their present size, and fenced in, so .as to admit 
of a proper rotation, then they would be adequate to their main* 
tenance ; and the sale of cattle, decently fed, would enable them 
with ease to pay a full rent ; whilst the produce of any day labour 
would, as it cerUiinly should, be at their own disposal. Now, 
there is scarcely a hamlet in the parish in which the arable land 
might not be doubled. That the people themselves, who have 
only one year's tenure of their land, and who can only liquidate 
their debts by work, for which they are paid in cash, should im- 
prove so extensively, is not to be expected. If done at all, the 
proprietor must pay them for their labour until a crop is efficiently 
laid down ; then a rent may be exacted, which would bring in a 
handsome interest on the outlay. 

There are many families, however, in great destitution, who 
have at present no land ; who could not, therefore, be benefited 
by the foregoing plan. Were sources of industry opened up, 
some of these might thereby be supported. But the most satis- 
factory method of disposing of these would be, to locate them in 
villages at the several fishing-stations ; to build commodious har- 
bours ; to encourage enterprising curers to settle among them ; 
and to secure a market for every species of fish : and thus, while 
the former depended wholly on the land, these should be made 
to depend wholly on the sea. Though the herring might occa- 
sionally fail, vast quantities of other fish could be caught on the 
coast, which are at present never brought to market ; and, as 
there is a probability that a steamer will soon ply on this coast 
from Caithness to Liverpool, a great inducement is held out to 
prosecute this trade with vigour. By this communication, all the 
exports of the country could obtain a ready market in the south. 

In conclusion, the writer expresses his full conviction, the re- 
sult of long observation, and many anxious thoughts on the sub- 
ject, that unless such, or some such plans are adopted regarding 
the interesting peasantry of his parish, the time will soon arrive 
when there will be no alternative but emigration, at the expense 



188 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

either of landlord or Government ; a poor law assessment, or, 
worse than either, a summary and universal ejection. Yet, rely- 
ing on the wealth and patriotic feelings of the Noble proprietor, 
and on the skill and intelligence of his agenU, he confidently ex- 
pects that these sore evils will be prevented, and that the next 
Statistical Account will have to record an improvement in the as- 
pect of the parish, and an amelioration in the condition of the 
people, which will be alike profitable and honourable to all par- 
ties. 
January 184K 



PARISH OF LOTH.* 

PRESBTTBRY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. DONALD ROSS, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — This parish appears to have taken its name from the 
farm on which the church stands, now known as Loth-more, to 
distinguish it from the neighbouring farm of Loth-beg. Until 
the beginning of the seventeenth century, these two farms border- 
ed upon two lakes, which were formed by the river of the Glen 
of Loth being retarded in its progress to the sea, and hemmed in, 
in hollow spaces of the low flat grounds, by a rocky eminence that 
runs parallel to the sea shore. A new course for the river was 
cut in a direct line to the sea, and through the solid rock, at the 
above period ; and since that alteration, the spaces occupied by the 
lakes have been converted into rich arable land, although the extent 
and banks of the lakes can still be traced. The present name of 
Lotkf which in Gaelic is still pronounced Z^A, is, therefore, be- 
lieved to be a corruption of the word Lochj which, in the Scotch 
dialect, is descriptive of a sheet of water, in the same sense as the 
word in old German signified, — namely, apertura^ hiatus^ or cavitas 
rotunda ; or, as Cambden has it, ^^ a place where rivers are stop^ 
ped.*' This etymology also agrees with the spelling of the 
name in ancient writings; and thus, in a Crown charter of the 
year 1451, the present Loth-more, — the site of the church and 

* Drawn up by George Sutherland Taylor, Esq. Golspie. 



LOTH. 189 

manse, — is called ^' Ville de Esiirlochj** the same being situated 
to the eastward of Loth-beg. The glen, also, through which the 
river of Loth flows is, in old writings, called ** the Glen of hoih," 
and not Glen^Lathj as it is now most frequently named ; thereby 
denoting that the glen was an appendage to the farm of Loth, 
iiffitead of having a descriptive or distinct name of its own. 

It may be added, however, as a remarkable fact connected with 
this name, that Ptolemy places the Loffi along the sea coast, of 
which the south boundary of the present parish of Loth forms a 
part ; the Ila Jlumen (the river Ullie or Helmsdale) being in 
their country, which seemed to extend between Veriibiumproman^ 
torium (the Ord of Caithness) and Ripa alta^ (the Ardross range 
of mountains towards Tarbetness). And Richard of Cirencester, 
in his description of Caledonia, assigns the same locality to the 
Logiy and says, after naming the Cantce, and Promontorium Pe- 
noxuUumf (the high ground of the present Oykill,) '' Huic ordine 
proximus est Jluvius Abona (the Dornoch Frith) ejusdemque ac- 
eolae Logi. Hinc Ila fluvius," &c. 

Boundaries^ Extent, Topographical Appearances. — The parish 
extends in a straight line from west to east, about eleven miles 
in length; and its breadth, where broadest, from Ben-Uarie to 
the sea, is about five miles. The boundary line, if taken at 
the sea shore at the Bay of Kintradwell, proceeds northward 
to the top of KoUieben, and thence along a ridge of high hills, 
and in a half-circular sweep, by west and north, to the top of 
Ben-Uarie, (1923 feet high,) and then eastward by the sum- 
mit of the. high ground between the Strath of Kildonan and the 
glen of Loth, and, intersecting the top of the Crask, on to Ben 
Veallich, (1888 feet high,) and to the top of Knock Elderaboll ; 
thence, down to the plane of the Strath of Kildonan and the river 
Helmsdale, at a point about three miles above the mouth of that 
river. Thereafter, following the river downwards for about one 
mile, the march ascends the east side of the valley, and, running 
nearly parallel with the tine of sea coast, and at a distance of about 
two miles from it, terminates to the north of the Hill of the Ord, 
at the march with the county of Caithness. From this last point 
to the sea, the boundary between Sutherland and Caithness forms 
also the eastern boundary of the parish, and runs southward to the 
steep front of the Ord at the sea, and is marked out by a low turf 
wall, erected about thirty-five years ago, when this part of the 
march between the two counties, as to which there existed some 



190 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

differences, was finally adjusted and fixed by arbitration. From 
the Ord to the Bay of Kintradwell, the sea shore is the southern 
boundary. The parish of Loth is therefore bounded on the west 
by the parish of Clyne ; on the north by the parish of Kildonan ; 
on the east by the parish of Latheron ; and on th6 south by the 
German Ocean, or rather by that part of it distinguished as the 
Moray Frith, which is here about forty miles broad. 

The whole length of the parish along its northern boundary is dis- 
tinguished by a ridge of high hills, which slope down towards the 
south with a steep descent, except at the contracted opening form- 
ed by the Strath of Kildonan, where the inarch crosses the low 
grounds of the valley from the summits of the hills that enclose 
it. This lofty range is placed nearly parallel with the line of sea 
coast which limits the parish to the south, and at a distance of 
from one to three miles from it ; the intervening space between 
the hills and the sea being either gently sloping ground, partially 
.cgultivated, and otherwise yielding sound natural pasture; or a le- 
vel flat of rich alluvial soil, all arable, and in a high state of culti- 
vation ; but at the eastern extremity of the parish, the huge head- 
land of the Ord leaves no intermediate space between the moun- 
tain and the sea, but forms a sheer and abrupt wall, rising with 
great majesty from, and towering above, the ever-heaving and deep 
sea, whose only strand, at the lowest tides, is the perpendicular 
face of the rock. 

This headland of the Ord* has been at all times an object of 
great interest to strangers; and before the present Parliamentary 
road from Sutherland into Caithness was formed, in the year 1811, 
the path — for it did not deserve the name of a road — along the 

* The oldest name of the Ord, with the exception of Veruhium promonioriutn of 
Ptolemy, to be found in ancient writings, is Mons Mound, which appears in the cu- 
rious geographical fragment headed " De Situ Albaniee," and which has been attri- 
buted to Andrew Bishop of Caithness, who died in 1 185. He divides Scotland into 
seven parts, and, no doubt, aUuding to the Diocesg of Caithness, which included the 
counties of Sutherland and Caithness, says : ^*- Septima enim pars est Cathane^ia 
citra montem et ultra montcm ; quid ^fon8 Mound dividit Cathanesiam per medium.** 
In the geographical collections in the Advocates* Library, called Macfarlane*8 MSS., 
several references arc also made to the Ord. Thus: *^ All that tract of land which 
lies betwixt Port.nacouter (the Dornoch Frith) and Dungsbay, (Duncansbay head,) 
was of old called Cattey. That part of it which lies eastward from the hill Ord was 
named Catteyncss, and afterwards Cathness, the Promontory of Cattey. That on 
this side the Ord, was called simply Cattey, and afterwards, for distinction's sake. 
South Cattey and Sutherland, which to this day, in the language of the natives and 
Highlanders, retains the name of Cattey, as the Sutherland men were called Catteigh, 
and the Earl of Sutherland Morvar Cattey.** And again,— ^' Sutherland is separat- 
ed and divided from Catteyness by the brook or stripe called Aldituver, (should be 
Ault-in-uder,) and by the hill called Ord or Mond, with a range of other hills 
which do stretch from the south sea to the north ocean.'* 



LOTH. 191 

outer edge of the rock, and without any protection from the pre- 
cipice that overhangs the sea, could not, with any degree of safe- 
ty, be passed in stormy weather, and never failed to inspire indi- 
viduals not accustomed to such passes, with great dread ; and 
among other travellers of the last century who describe the ter- 
rors of the passage across the Ord, the Rev. John Brand, in his 
Description of Orkney, Shetland, and Caithness in the year 1701, 
says, " The Ord which divideth Caithness from Sutherland is a 
high mountain, as the name Ord, which in Irish signifieth an height, 
doth imply, down which our way from Caithness to Sutherland 
doth lie. The road is but narrow, and the descent steep, and if 
any stumble thereupon, they are in hazard of falling down a pre- 
cipice into the sea at the bottom of the rock, which is very terrible 
to behold ; but who pass it for the more security, use to lead their 
liorses to the foot of the hill, which is about a short mile in length, 
and no other way there is from Sutherland to Caithness, or from 
Caithness to Sutherland, but this, except we go 12 miles about" 
The Glen of Loth is a narrow opening of about three miles in 
extent, surrounded by the highest hills in the parish, and is one 
of those wild glens, characteristic of a Highland district, which the 
superstition of former ages invested with traditional tales of wonder 
and terror. The glen, at the foot of an abrupt and prominent 
hill called Drumderg, was the scene of a bloody conflict between 
the men of Strathnaver and those of Loth in the sixteenth cen- 
tury ; and it possesses several objects to which the traditions of 
the country have given celebrity. Thus, a large cairn, called 
Cairn-Bran^ marks the place where Ossian's dog Bran is said to 
have died, and been buried. At Caim-in-uag^ an ancient hunt- 
ing-house stood. Tober Massan is the name of a well of excel- 
lent water, which, in former ages, was resorted to as a specific for 
almost all diseases, provided silver or gold was left in the water 
for the officiating priest Clach Mac-meas is a huge upright 
stone, which a precocious youth, at the tender age of one month, 
in that interesting period of the world's history, when " giants of 
mighty bone and bold emprise," dwelt in the land, hurled to the 
bottom of the glen from the top of Ben-Uarie. Carriken-^ligk 
are four stone pillars on an elevated barrow, that point out the 
resting-place of some leading men of a remote period ; and con- 
nected with this glen, and forming the very close and singular 
sides of a small burn that runs into it, are the lofty cliffs called 
Craig- Boddich and Craig- Bhokie^ remarkable not only for their 



192 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

towering and perpendicular height, but for the very narrow space 
that separates them.* 

The arable portion of the parish, between the hills along its 
northern boundary and the sea, is generally flat, and its naturally 
rich and fertile soil is well cultiyated. The ravines formed by 
mountain streams, which intersect the south side of the hills at 
distances of two or three miles, are striking features in the land- 
scape ; particularly one of them, AuUkolliej which is a remarkably 
deep, tortuous, and romantic gully. The sea coast is, with the 
exception of a few low rocky headlands, sandy and shallow, from 
the western extremity of the parish to Port- Grower; and thence 
to the Ord, the shore is one continued line of rock or rough gravel ; 
but no part of the coast affords any natural protection for shipping. 

Meteorology. — The changes of the atmosphere have not been 
registered or ascertained by continued observations in this parish. 
The complete range of high hills that forms the northern and 
eastern boundaries of the parish, affords great shelter from the 
cold and piercing winter, and spring winds from these quarters ; 
and consequently, during the prevalence of such winds, the greater 
mildness of the atmosphere in this parish, compared with that 
along the more exposed sea coast on the Caithness side of the 
Ord, is often remarked by persons travelling between the two 
counties. The opening of the Strath of Kildonan at Helmsdale 
may be an exception to this remark, for there the wind, when high 
and coming down from the strath, is felt with peculiar violence. 
The parish is decidedly healthy, and instances of longevity are 
common ; and at present, a small tenant and his wife, whose 
ages are not correctly known, have been united in marriage for the 
long period of eighty years. There are no distempers peculiar to 
the parish ; but in 1832, Asiatic cholera appeared very suddenly, 
and for the first time north of Aberdeen, at Helmsdale, during 
the busiest period of the herring fishery, and in that town and 
neighbourhood between thirty and forty persons died of it This 
mysterious disease was believed to have been introduced into the 
parish by some fishermen who then arrived at Helmsdale from 
the«Frith of Forth, where the disease was raging at the time ; and 
it is certain that the first person who was seized with it in the pa- 
rish, was a female while in the act of washing clothes, belonging to 

* The writer of Uiis report furnished notices of the forest traditions connected 
with the Glen of Loth for Mr Scrope*8 Art of Deer Stalking, which are inserted ra 
that work. 

3 



LOTH. 193 

one of the fishermen who came from an infected quarter near 
£ dinburgh. 

Hydrography. — The Moray Frith, the uEstuarium Vararis of 
Ptolemy, and the Breidafiord of the Northern sagas, is here a 
wide and stormy sea, without any islands. The projecting and 
bhiff headland of the Ord affects the currents along the shore ; 
and these currents, in the opinion of many practical fishermen, in- 
fluence and direct the progress and course of those shoals of her- 
rings which annually visit this coast ; and hence, a continuance of 
the success which has attended the herring fishery at Helmsdale, 
since it has been regularly prosecuted there, may be found to rest 
on more certain and durable causes than are generally supposed to 
exist The saltness of the sea water off the Ord has been analyzed, and 
it has been ascertained to be much greater than that of water taken at 
Tarbartness, at the opening of the Dornoch Frith ; while the water 
at the latter point contains about double the quantity of salt found in 
water taken within the Frith, between the towns of Dornoch and Tain. 
There are now no lakes within the parish,'and the only rivers are those 
of the Glen of Loth and the Helmsdale, which last flows for about 
three miles along or within the parish, before it enters the sea at 
Helmsdale. The Helmsdale is a large and handsome stream ; 
but, having had no bridge across it until 1811, it retarded travel- 
lers ; and Pennant, in his tour in the northern counties in 1769, 
records, that he had to *^ ford the very dangerous water of Helms- 
dale, rapid and full of great stones." 

Geology. — The high hills of the parish present a steep front to 
the south, and are of primary formation, being composed of por- 
phyritic granite, chiefly of a brown colour, but often reddish and 
sometimes gray. This stone is fragile, and, as it cannot be quar- 
ried in large blocks, or formed into well-proportioned shapes, 
it is of little use for building. This stone is also distinguished 
by different degrees of coarseness in its grains, and by the pre- 
sence of veins of a large size. Thus, in the bed of the river 
Helmsdale, close to the march with Kildonan, a fine-grained por- 
phyry occurs ; and at Lothbeg, and thence to the west end of the 
parish, the same rock is a very rude compound, with large vetns, 
in which felspar predominates, and which yield readily to the ac- 
tion of running water. 

In Mr Cunningham's Geognostical Account of the County of 
Sutherland, published in the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture, 
No. 46, that gentleman includes the coast side, or low-lying sec- 
tion of this parish, as part of the district in which the oolite se- 



194 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

ries which he describes is developed ; and as his description is mi- 
nute and interesting, it is added in a note below.* 

About one-half of the whole stretch of sea coast in this parish, or 
from the west end of it to Port Gower, is a sandy beach, with the 
exception of low rocks covered durinf^ full tides, but forming nar- 
row promontories during low water, which, at irregular intervals, 
break the uniformity of the sandy beach ; and, with the exception 
also of occasional deposits of boulder stones of various rocks, pri- 

* ** Af\er leaving Brora, the oolite strata are completely coveredf until we arrive 
St Kintradwell, where a series is to be found dipping, in general north, at an angle 
of about 20°. At a short distance from the House of Kintradwell, there is a beauti- 
ful example of what may be termed a false or pseudo-vein, which consists of a 
mass of quartzMe sandstone, 76 yards in length by two feet in breadth, and 
traverses vertically slaty sandstone strata, inclined to the north north>ea$t at 
SO**. Laying aside the species of rock which forms this vcinous mass, every 
variety of form exhibited in the usual trap dikes, is to be found. It runs the 
same uninterrupted course, has the same definite lines of boundary, and in several 
places sends out latcral^branches. Indeed, if we keep theory apart from hcu, this is, 
as far as visible, as perfect a vein as any composed of a rock whose origin is consider, 
cd consonant with an eruptive and veinous form. As a proof that the present posi- 
lion of this sandstone vein is not its original one, we may state that the remains of 
plants which occur in it are all arranged parallelly to the sides of the vein ; where- 
as, if it had been quietly deposited in a previously existing rent, they would all have 
had a more or less horizontal arrangement. 

^* Between Kintradwell and Helmsdale, the oolite series, when visible over a consi- 
derable extent, affords marks of much derangement, and frequently dips within thort 
spaces to various points at various angles. Associated with the wiiite lias sandstone 
near Port Gower, one of the brownish -red colour is to be met with, having the usual 
character of the red sandstone of the coal formation; shale also of green, purple, 
and brown sliades, is found to alternate with it. On the shore at Helmsdale, at Loth, 
and several other points, the oolite sandstone occurs, containing beds of conglome- 
rate, composed of variously sized masses of the sandstones, shales, and limestones of 
the series ; but this may easily be explained, by supposing, that, after the deposition 
of some of the strata, they were acted upon by destructive agents, and again reconso- 
lidated. After leaving the junction at Clyne, no other is discoverable until we ar> 
rive at the ravine of Alt Colle. Here the same conformability again appears, both 
series dipping in a disturbed manner. The quartz rock is the same as that already 
noticed, and in this and an adjoining glen, is found to afford numerous weU-raarked 
contortions. At the bridge of Loth- Beg, the quartz rock is replaced by granite, and 
an almost immediate junction of the oolite and the granite may be observed, the stra- 
ta of the former dipping north north-east at an angle of 40**. At Port Gower, this 
position is completely reversed, the lines of stratification, if prolonged, sinking un- 
der the granite. 

*< At the Green Table near the Ord of Caithness, and at several points along the 
shore, a conglomerate of the oolite series is found to rest immediately on the granite 
at angles of 40". Its apparently disturbed arrangement and mode of formation, have, 
by Professor Sedgwick and Mr M urchison, been explained by referring them to the 
action of the granite ; the fiict of its not being indurated or traversed by veins, being 
considered as explicable by supposing that the granite had been elevated in a solid 
sta|^ after its original fluid protrusion through the primitive strata. One reason for 
not adopting this theoretical view, exists in the fact, that the same conglomerate may be 
found, connected with the sandstones of the series, at points where there is no granite 
in the neighbourhood. To say that highly inclined and mineralogically unaltered 
strata, when in connection with granite, have assumed their angular position, by the 
granite being upheaved in a solid state, is a doctrine which is completely unsupport- 
ed by all that is known in r^ard to volcanic dynamics, and exists only as a very un- 
warrantable hypothesis. To imagine that all rocks inclined at high angles have been 
upraised subsequcDtly to their formation, must lead to very false conclusions ; and 
can never be adopted to its full extent, by any who have examined the disposition of 
mountain debris, and the high angle at which a talus may be accumulated.*' 



LOTH. 195 

mitive, transition, and secondary, which the storms of centuries 
have collected in the bay of Kintradwell, and in one or two simi- 
lar localities. From Port Gower to the extremity of the parish at 
the Ord, the sea shore is formed of one continued and rugged mar- 
gin of limestone, part of the oolitic formation referred to by Mr 
Cunningham. Thb stone has often been burnt into hme, which 
was found to be of excellent quality ; but the extra expense of fuel 
at a place remote from coal markets, increased the expense of the 
manufacture beyond the price at which English lime can be de- 
livered in the parish ; and besides, the encroachments of the sea 
on this coast require that the natural rocky barrier, which present- 
ly exists, should not be weakened or reduced by the removal of 
any part of it. 

Zoology. — The only rare species of animal now found in the 
parish is the red-deer (Cervus elaphus)^ which occasionally wan- 
der from the interior recesses of the county, into the corries and 
passes of Ben Uarie and Ben Veallicb. The fox, once so destruc- 
tive to the farmer, has been extirpated ; and one of the last wolves 
killed in the county of Sutherland was destroyed in the Glen of 
Loth, some time between the years 1690 and 1700* 

The cattle, sheep, horses, and hogs, reared in the parish, arc 
all superior animals, and often obtain the highest prizes, when ex- 
hibited at public competitions. The fishes that may be said to 
belong to Loth are extremely important and valuable. The sal- 
mon of the Helmsdale are of a large size, and the river being 
fished by the proprietor, the Duke of Sutherland, the utmost at- 
tention is directed to the proper mode of fishing, which annually 
closes two weeks before the legal period, in order to allow a 
greater number of spawning fish to ascend the river; and the 
spawning-beds and fry are afterwards carefully protected ; but no 
peculiarity in the habits of the fish have been observed in this 
river. Of sea fish, the herring is the most valuable, and when 
they approach this part of the coast in the months of July and 
August, are in prime condition, and of very superior quality. Cod 
are also got in great numbers, and excel in quality and size those 
obtained in the upper waters of the Frith; and abundance of 4iad- 
dock, skate, and whiting are constantly obtained. Turbot are 
plentiful at a distance of some miles from the coast; but the fisher- 
men have no inducement to follow the deep-sea fishing. Lobsters 
and crabs are, at present, very numerous, but the former were so 

* Scxope's Art of Y}eQr Stalking contains an account of this occurrence. 



196 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

severely fished some years ago, by fishing- smacks, for the London 
market, that it was, for some time thereafter, thought that the lob- 
ster had been exterminated along the coast. 

Botany. — Rare native plants are seldom met with in the parish ; 
but the cultivated vegetable productions are important and of the 
best quality. With the exception of a clump of Scotch firs at 
Kintradwell, and some stately sycamore and ash-trees at Kilmote, 
and a few straggling young trees at Midgarty and Port Gower, 
there is no growing wood in the parish. The grains raised in the 
arable lands, are of superior quality, and ripen early and with little 
risk, even in un&vourable seasons. The deep carse soil in the 
centre of the parish, yields all descriptions of grain, — ^wheat, barley, 
oats, beans, and pease ; but the quality of the barley of this dis- 
trict is so superior, that its cultivation is the chief object of the 
farmer; and large parcels of this grain have been raised of late years 
in the parish, which weighed 57^ lb. per bushel ; while one small 
parcel raised at Crakaig weighed 59 lb. The herbage of the 
hills and moorlands, however, do not excel similarly situated pas- 
turages in their neighbourhood ; and no rare plants appear in the 
uncultivated lands, unless we enumerate as such, Eriophorumf in 
boggy places ; Primula farinosoj in two or three plats of meadow ; 
Viola lutea in sheltered slopes of rivulets ; and the fragrant Jlfy- 
rica ffaky in marshes and soft grounds. Vaccinium myrtilhis, the 
blaeberry, and F. oxt/coccos, afford their wild native fruits, along 
some of the sides of the highest mountains ; and F. mtis-idcBaj 
the red bilberry, is common in less elevated moorlands. The 
steep and comparatively dry sides of the hills to the north of 
Navidale are adorned with some of the richest and most luxu- 
riant furze-bushes, Ulex EuropcBus^ to be met with in the north of 
Scotland, and which, when brilliant with their splendid golden 
blossoms, far exceed in wild beauty and richness, any other of our 
native plants, and invest with credit the anecdote of Linnaeus, 
who, for the first time, saw the furze on his visit to England in 
1736, and was so enraptured with it, that it is said he fell on his 
knees in order to admire its bright blossoms. Another common 
plaift, the spear-thistle, Carduus lanceolatus^ rears its stately 
and barbed-head,, along the line of the old road across the 
Ord, in such great numbers as to justify the assertion, that the 
national emblem of Scotland is the decorative crest of the bold 
sea-front of the Ord, — one of the most characteristic headlands of 
ancient Caledonia. In the barren shingle along the sea shore, 



LOTH. 197 

between Helmsdale and the Ord, Pulmonaria maritima^ a rare 
plant on the northern shores, attracts attention by its beautiful 
azure leaves. The rocky parts of the coast of the parish also fur- 
nish several species of Fuci^ and, in such abundance that, before 
the reduction in the pric« of the kelp, about thirty tons of kelp were 
annually manu&ctured in the parish ; but the present price of the 
article would not pay the expense of manufacturing it ; and no sea- 
ware has been burnt for several years past The best known species 
of Rid on this coast, are Fucus digitatusy F. palmattiSi F. vestcultn 
gusf F. nodiuuSf F. serratuSf and F,flum. 

II. — Civil History. 

There is no separate history of this parish known to exist ; but 
many events and occurrences connected with its annals are recorded 
in Sir Robert Gordon's History of the Earldom of Sutherland, 
which was written in the year 1630. 

The only direct land route to Caithness, and by the Pentland 
Firth to Orkney, being through this parish, it has, at different 
times, witnessed the march of hostile forces, and has often been 
the scene of disturbance and violence. During the inroads of the 
Northmen in, and preceding, the twelfth century, the coast of Loth 
appears to have been often visited by these daring invaders ; and 
Helmsdale, a name evidently derived from them, is believed to be 
identical with the name ** Hialmaidaly^ which occurs in one 
of the northern sagas. In the year 1198, the parish received a 
royal visit, on the occasion of King William the Lion's march 
into Caithness, to revenge the cruel death of John Bishop of Caith- 
ness;* for an ancient MS. descriptive of his expedition states, 
that the King had a great army, ^* and marched till he came to 
Eysteinsdale, — there are the boundaries of Katanes and Sudrland, 
-»the camp of the King of Scots stretched along the Dais, and that 
is a very long way." These Dales are believed to have been the 
valleys of Kildonan, terminating at Helmsdale, and Strathmore in 
Caithness, which communicate with each other, ** and that is a 
very long way ;" and in the last of which valleys, there is a place 
still called Easterdale. 

During the turbulent ages that succeeded King William's ex- 

• «* During King William's absence, Harold Earl of Orkney and Caithness ap- 
prehended John Bishop of Caithness, cut out bis tongue, and put out his eyes, for 
having opposed some designs of his at Court. For which King William upon his 
return, caused the Earl to be apprehended, cut out his tongue, pulled out his eyes, 
and then hang^ him upon a gibbet. These things happened in the year 1198."— 
BUhop ElplAntUm. 



198 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

pedition, Loth, being a border parish, was exposed to all the sud- 
den inroads and craicks arising from the hostility which the inha- 
bitants of two adjoining districts, separated by a marked natural 
barrier, such as Sutherland and Caithness are, fostered against 
each other, before the blessings of regular government and the 
impartial administration of equal laws, were experienced ; and the 
parish also suffered very much from the lawless depredations 
committed by fugitives, and persons of desperate character, who 
sought for temporary shelter amidst the solitary recesses of the 
Qrd ; and the tales still, or very lately, lingering in the neigh- 
bourhood, with reference to these freebooters between the two 
counties, agree in spirit and tendency, with the sympathy expres- 
sed in some of the popular ballads of the period, in such terms, as, 

Alas ! that e*er such laws were made, 

To hang a man for gear ; 
Either for stealing cow or sheep, 

Or yet for horse or mare : 
Had not the laws then l)ccn so strict, 

I had never lost my joy ; 
But now he lodges with Auld Nick 

That hanged my Gilderoy.** 

But, notwithstanding the existence of this popular feeling, it is 
stated in Sir Robert Gordon's History, that, in the year 1617, a 
gibbet was erected on the top of the Ord, where ** some notable 
robbers that exercised all kynd of thift, and other misdemeanors 
in Southerland, Catteynes, and Rosse, were hanged.*' 

The disastrous battle of Floudden was fought on 9th Septem- 
ber 1513, and, shortly before then, a gallant body of Caithness- 
men, headed by their Earl, marched through this parish on their 
way to join the Scottish army. These brave men and their lead- 
er met with an honourable death on the field of battle ; but as 
they happened, when leaving Caithness, to cross the Ord on a 
Monday, and were dressed in a green uniform, there still exists a 
popular aversion among the natives of the district, to take a 
journey over the Ord on that day of the week, or in a green-co- 
loured coat. 

Passing over those other historical events connected with this 
parish, which are already before the public, in Sir Robert Gor- 
don's History, the next prominent occurrence was the appearance 
of about 700 Argyle Highlanders on their march into Caithness, 
in the summer of 1 679, in order to support the King's patent to 
the Earldom of Caithness, which had been granted on 28th June 
1677, in favour of John Campbell of Gleoorchy, afterwards creat- 



LOTH. 199 

ed Earl of Breadalbane. This expedition, which terminated in 
the battle of Altimarlach, to the westward of Wick, is remarkable 
as indicating the peculiar condition of Scotland at that compara- 
tively recent period, which admitted a subject to arm his vassals, 
and wage war, in support of his private legal claims. It was dur- 
ing the march northwards of the men of Glenorcby, on this occa- 
sion, that the well known quickstep airs, ^^ The Campbells are 
coming," and " The Braes of Glenorchy," obtained their names. 

The Rebellions in 1715 and 1745, occasioned the arming of the 
male population of this parish, in support of the reigning dynasty. 
During the retreat of the insurgents before the battle of CuUoden, 
in 1746, Lord Loudon was stationed in Dornoch, with some com- 
panies of the King's troops; but, hearing of the advance into Ross- 
shire of a large force under the Duke of Perth, with the intention 
of attacking him. Lord Loudon and his men abruptly retired to 
the westward^ leaving the whole county of Sutherland unprotect. 
ed« The Earl of CromartV} with a considerable force, instantly 
marched through Sutherland into Caithness, with the intention of 
collecting together such men in that latter county, as might be in- 
clined to join the rebel army ; and the Earl's men, among other 
outrages committed by them against individuals and private pro- 
perty, burnt, in this parish, the mansion-houses of Kintradwell and 
Crakaig, and disinterred the corpse of a person recently interred 
in the burying-ground at Navidale, who had been the relative of 
a zealous royalist at that place, and left the partly decayed body 
in his bed, — he having previously fled from his home on the ap- 
proach of the enemy. These proceedings exasperated the parish 
people ; and two of Lord Cromarty's officers, who had wandered 
into the glen of Loth, on their return from Caithness, were killed 
there by three countrymen who met them. Before the return 
from Caithness of this invading force, the militia of the county had 
time to assemble, and having attacked them to the west of Golspie, 
the Earl of Cromarty's forces were defeated in a running fight 
between Rhives and the Little Ferry, and the Earl, and almost 
all his officers and men who were not slain, were taken prisoners. 
This occurred two days before the battle of Culloden was fought ; 
and while the Earl was hurrying south to join the rebel army. 

Ltand'Owners. — His Grace the Duke and Earl of Sutherland is 
heritor of the whole parish, which, at all times, formed part of 
the ancient Earldom of Sutherland. 

Parochial RegUters. — There is no register of births and mar- 



200 SUTHERLANDSHIUG. 

riages for this parish^ of any earlier date than the close of the last 
century ; and this is a defect common to almost all the neighbour- 
ing parishes, which has been often attended with the most vexa- 
tious and injurious consequences to persons in humble life, who 
required to establish their propinquity to deceased and remote re- 
latives. Older registers may have existed ; but, as there was no 
legal provision for the care and preservation of such records, the 
system under which they were entrusted to the parish schoolmas- 
ters, afforded little or no security for their preservation. All pa- 
rish registers are now under better and safer management than 
formerly ; but many persons who have directed their attention to 
the matter, are convinced, that, as national records, the parish 
registers of Scotland admit of being placed under more strict con- 
trol, and more certain protection, than have yet been devised for 
insuring their full public benefits. 

Antiquities. — The old Castle of Helmsdale, situate on an ele- 
vated green bank, close to the River of Helmsdale, where it min- 
gles with the sea water, is the only remarkable ruin now remaining 
in the parish. The date of its erection is not known : but the building 
is of that square form, with sharp angles, generally attributed to 
the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, in the north of Scotland. 
It was a hunting-seat of the Sutherland family, adjoining the old 
deer-forest of Sledale, and the Ord, and is distinguished in the 
annals of the county, as the place where John, the eleventh Earl 
of Sutherland, and his Countess, were both poisoned in July ]567, 
in a diabolical, but fortunately abortive attempt to poison the 
whole family, and thereby divert the succession to their honours 
and estates, out of the direct line of descent. Several of those 
very ancient edifices, known as circular or Pictish towers, stood 
formerly in the parish of Loth, and one of them, at Lothbeg, was 
entire at the time Pennant visited the county in 1769. It is now 
only distinguished as a circular cairn of small stones. Another of 
these towers stood at Wilkhouse ; one to the east of Midgarty ; and 
a very large one, called Dun-Phailj crowned the brow of the high 
ground, close to the public road, and about half-way between 
Port Gower and Helmsdale. The foundation of this last tower 
could only be traced of late years, and the large stones forming 
that foundation have been dug up recently for building purposes. 
The old Hunting House in the Glen of Loth, of which Pennant 
gives a plan, has also disappeared. * 

* Pennant's description of the above hunting houses is, that '* They consist of a 
gallery, with a number of small rooms on the sides, each formed of three large stones, 



LOTH. 201 

Id the west side uf the steep bank of the Kintradwell Burn, an 
artificial opening or cave, and built and roofed with stone, called 
Coah'-geavag^ now shut by an accumulation of soil and rubbish, is 
said to lead to subterranean apartments, which, from descriptions 
giyeu by persons who entered them, before the mouth of the cave 
became impeded, are supposed to have been places of refuge or 
sepulchre. At a remote period, a chapel, called after St Ninian, 
stood at Navidale, and another, called John the Baptist's Chapel, 
close to the present bridge of Helmsdale ; and at both these places, 
there are burying-grounds, still used as such. Another of these 
chapels stood at Easter Garty, the ruins of which are still recol- 
lected ; and it is said that a fourth stood at Kintradwell, called St 
Trullew's Chapel, although the existence of this last one is not 
certain. Several barrows and tumuli are scattered throughout the 
parish, and the heads of ancient stone battle-axes have been found 
in some cairns supposed to point out the resting-place of persons 
slain in conflicts ; and at Strone-Rungie^ a low-lying point of the 
coast between Culgower and Wester Garty, a number of battle 
cairns still mark the place where it is said foreign invaders were 

successfully opposed and overcome. 

III. — Population. 
The population of Loth has been, for several years past, and is 

rapidly increasing. The early state of its population cannot be 
traced satisfactorily ; but some occasional facts have been ascer- 
tained, which warrant the conclusion, that the number of inhabi- 
tants was stationary for the last two hundred years, until about the 
year 1811. Thus, in February 1651, the " Committee of War," for 
the shire, in fixing the number of men for a militia regiment, 
allocated those from the parish of Loth as follows : 

'* Clynetraidwall and two davochs of Lothbeg, ... 7 men. 

The three davoch lands of Cracaik and ye davoch of Lothe and ye glen, . 7 
LotheriDora and Eister Helmisdaill, . . . . 7 

Culgor, West Garthie, and West Helmisdaiil, ... 7 

Marie, Midgarthle, and East Garthie, .... 7 

Navidaill, ...... 2 



37 

These numbers of selected fighting men bear about the same 
proportion to the strength of the regiment then raised, which the 

Tix. one on each side, and a third by way of covering. Tliese are made with the 
Tast Bags this country is famous for. At the extremity, is a larger apartment, of an 
oval figure, probably the quarters of the chieftain. The passage or gallery is without 
a roof, — a proof that they were only temporary habitations. Their length is from 
fifty to sixty feet. These buildings arc only in places where the great flags are plen- 
tiful. In Glen Loth are three, and are called by the country people Uags.*^ 

SUTHERLAND. O 



202 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 

parish afforded of males able to carry arms, and between the ages 
of 16 and 60, in the year of the last Rebellion 1745, when nearly 
8000 men were enrolled as militiamen, on the estate of Suther 
land. At this last period, the relative proportion also of men from 
each of the townships, does not much differ from the allocation in 
1651, — thus: 

Kintradwell, and part of Lothbeg, . . 33 men. 

Crakaig, Loth, and the Glen, . . 41 

Lothmore and Easter Helmsdale^ . . 33 

Culgotrer, Wester Garty, and West Helmsdale, 88 

Marril, Midgarty, and East Garty, . . 22 

Navidalc, .... 14 

176 

The Government returns give the following result for this pa- 
rish : 

In 1801, the population was 1374 

1811, 1330 

1821, 2008 

1831. . 2234 

This increase is to be attributed to the successful establishment 
of the herring-fishery at Helmsdale, and to the settlement of se- 
veral small tenants in that track of improvable land, chiefly near 
the coast, from Port Gower to Navidale. These causes of the 
increase have been in very active operation since the date of the 
last Government census, and, without attempting to anticipate, in 
exact numbers, the probable increase since that period, by trust- 
ing to any less authentic data than the census to be taken in the 
present year, it is believed by the reporter, that the increase will 
at least equal that which has occurred during the last two decades, 
or between the years 1811 and 1831. 

The erection of houses in Helmsdale, which, with the excep- 
tion of Port Gower, is the only village in the parish, is not only 
annually on the increase : but the accommodation they afford, and 
the style of building, are improving. This town, begun in 1818, has 
been regularly and steadily increasing since then; and the houses be- 
ing all new, and substantially built, and all roofed with slatesor tiles, 
and the streets regular, the general appearance of the whole place 
is as pleasing to a stranger as the prosperity of its principal trade, 
and the internal comforts of its dwellings, have been important 
and creditable to the inhabitants. 

There is no marked peculiarity in the habits of the people of the 
parish, or in their style or manner of dress. They are generally 
frugal in their mode of living, but have a laudable anxiety to ap- 



LOTH. 203 

pear at all times in becoming and respectable apparel. The na- 
tive language of the country people is Gaelic, but almost all of 
them speak or understand English, and it may be said that all 
young persons, male and female, are able to read and write. The 
baneful but often alluring vices of poaching and smuggling have 
]ong ago ceased within the parish, in consequence, chiefly, of the 
superior and comfortable condition in which almost all the heads 
of families in it are placed, as tenants holding directly, at very mo- 
derate rents, under their landlord, independent of intermediate dic- 
tation over their time and industry ; and which healthy position pre- 
cludes all desire to engage in the ruinous practice of illegal of- 
fences. The general character of the population is that of a decid- 
edly moral, religious, and industrious people ; and nowhere are the 
safety and security of individuals, and the rights of property, more 
respected and upheld, and less interfered with, than in the parish 
of Loth. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The arable lands may conveniently be classed in- 
to large farms, and the allotments possessed by small tenants. 
There are seven large farms in the parish, which, besides valuable 
ranges of low-lying and hill pastures, have among them 1 182 acres 
of arable land, equal in fertility to any others in the county* 
These farms are held under leases of nineteen years endurance, 
and are laboured under the five years shift of husbandry, having 
annually one-fifth part in fallow, turnips, potatoes, or other green 
crop ; one-fifth part in grass one year old ; one-fifth part in grass 
two years old ; and not more than two-fifth parts in corn crop. 
All the farms are conveniently subdivided, and enclosed with sub- 
stantial.stone dikes, and the farm buildings are modern and suitable. 

The lands held by the small tenants are also laboured with con- 
siderable skill and industry ; and each tenant raises annually bar- 
ley or bear, oats, and potatoes, besides small patches of turnips and 
sown grasses, and maintains one or more cows, and often rears his 
young cattle, and possesses one of the small hardy horses of the 
country, and a few of the small native sheep, besides swine and 
poultry in abundance. Their cottages, formerly very rude and 
mean, have been wisely removed by themselves, in situations where 
they were placed on improvable land, to more sterile parts of their 
lots, in order to convert all that can be rendered arable into corn 
land ; and hence, the comfortable stone cottages, of improved con- 
struction, which they now occupy, are generally placed on the 



204 SUTHERLANDSHIUE. 

highest ridges and more rocky eminences of the different town- 
ships. The industry with which the trenching and improving of 
hitherto waste land is carried on by these small tenants, is easily ac- 
counted for, when it is stated, that no advance of rent follows in con- 
sequenceof any improvement orprogressiveamelioration of the soil; 
that the whole benefits resulting from these causes have been enjoy- 
ed exclusively by the tenants, and that the rents have been placed on 
such a reasonable scale, that there was not a single sixpence of the 
rents of the whole parish left unpaid on last audit day; and that such 
a proceeding as a distraint for rent has not been known among these 
tenants, for a long period of years. In addition to these mighty 
advantages, the whole allotments of the small tenants are very ju- 
diciously intersected by branch roads, along which the important 
article of fuel, — peats of excellent quality, — are readily carted home 
from the neighbouring hill mosses, and the necessary removal of 
manure and other field operations are effected with great facility. 

Fislieries. — The most important fisheries belonging to the pa- 
rish, are those of salmon in the river Helmsdale, and the herring- 
fishery at the village of Helmsdale. The former has been cele- 
brated from the oldest period of which we have record, as produc- 
tive and valuable. For several years past, the river has been fish- 
ed directly by the servants of the proprietor, who, avoiding all 
close and severe fishing, and taking every means to protect the 
spawning fish when ascending the river, and the fry afterwards, 
besides closing the fishing season, at least two weeks before the 
time fixed by law, (and which is also done in all the other rivers 
on the estates of Sutherland,) thus guard, by all available means, 
this fine salmon stream from the evils of too close and exterminat- 
ing a system of fishing, so often complained of, when tenants oc- 
cupy such fishings. The fish are disposed of by contract, at a 
certain price per pound, and are sent off in a fresh state in ice to 
the London market. 

Herring-Fishery. — This very important branch of industry has 
been conducted with such spirit, and such signal and increasing 
success, since it was established and prosecuted, on a regular sys- 
tem at Helmsdale, that its history and present condition claim 
particular notice in any account of the parish of Loth. The un- 
settled state of the north of Scotland before the suppression of the 
Rebellion in 1746, may alone be adduced as a sufficient reason for 
the neglect, down to' that period, of the fisheries which now add 
so materially to the prosperity and well-being of the population of 



LOTH. 205 

our sea coasts ; but from that date to the beginning of the present 
century, there was a period of fifty-four years of uuintemipted in- 
ternal peace and public security, &vourable for the pursuit of most 
branches of industry, and which could not be materially affected 
by a distant war such as that with America, during which the 
fisheries were as completely neglected as ever ; and in this state, 
it is probable, they would have continued much longer, had not 
Government and patriotic individuals interfered. Capital is sel- 
dom embarked in hazardous and doubtful speculations, unless there 
be a chance of extraordinary profits. The ultimate success of the 
herring fishery was by no means certain ; great profits could not, 
with probability, be calculated upon ; and the Dutch, who, before 
the present century, supplied the continental markets, were, from 
their experience and perseverance, and more especially from their 
superior mode of curing, (then supposed to be known to them ex- 
clusively,) competitors of the most formidable description. The 
herring-fishery was, therefore, generally looked upon as an import- 
ant national concern, in so far as it reared a hardy class of sea- 
men, but as possessing few attractions for individual speculators. 
Hence, the first efforts of Government to advance the fisheries 
were attended with partial success only ; and such is the difficulty 
of selecting the most efficient means, at a first trial, in some legis- 
lative measures, that the principle upon which the Government 
bounties for the encouragement of the herring fishery were grant- 
ed, has been subsequently found to be an erroneous one. Busses 
of not less than sixty tons burden were the description of vessels 
encouraged ; and all such, when fitted out for sea in a particular 
manner, were entitled to a bounty of L. 3 per ton, whether fish 
were caught or not. Consequently, it often followed that busses, 
after being passed for the deep sea fishery, skulked along shore, 
or lingered in safe retired creeks, among the Orkney and other 
islands, — only going to sea when the weather was inviting. The 
crews also were exempted from impressment ; so that a number 
of lazy hands were thus obtained by the master, to man the bus- 
ses, at a trifling expense. This system was directly the reverse 
of the active and vigorous mode of fishing now prosecuted. The 
next measure, being a bounty of 4s. on the cran of fish, gutted, 
cured, and packed, in an improved manner at stations on shore, 
was, however, a most important and serviceable enactment, and may 
be considered as giving the first well-directed impulse which the pre- 
sent fishery system received. The curer, at first, when the busi- 



206 . SUTHERLANDSHIE. 

ness was imperfectly understood, and when he could only com- 
mand a limited number of fishermen, sufficiently skilful and ex- 
perienced, had to incur expenses and run risks, now guarded 
against ; and, at that time, the bounty often formed his only pro- 
fit, — while without it, it is probable that the business would have 
lingered or decayed. As the trade prospered under the bounty 
system, several individuals without capital appeared as curers. 
They engaged a few inefficient boats, and the premium promised 
to the crews was often made a postponed payment, consequent 
on the sale of the cured fish. If regular curing premises could 
not be procured, an open area with portable sheds was used. The 
staves, the salt, and the other curing materials were obtained up- 
on credit ; and whenever the barrels were packed, and branded by 
the fishery officer, the bounty was payable and obtained, and this 
advance paid off the pressing current expenses. Latterly, curers 
of this description increased too rapidly ; but the bounty, which 
originally worked so much good, (although as the trade increased 
and was understood, it fostered unsound speculation,) was withdrawn 
in time to place the herring-fishery on a more safe foundation ; 
because now, few persons will or can adventure in it, who are not 
possessed of some capital or credit. 

The regulations as to the size of the barrel, the curing and 
packing of the fish, and the branding of the barrels, are still at- 
tended to ; and indeed, these regulations are so well calculated to 
secure the proper curing of the fish, that self-interest alone must 
compel the respectable curer to observe them strictly. Fishery 
officers are still retained at the different stations, whose duty it is 
to brand all cured herrings submitted to them, in barrels of the 
legal size, if of good quality, and regularly cured; and their 
brand, a crown, stamps them as of prime quality ; and thus the fish 
acquire a character, without which the curer could not obtain the 
current market-price. The barrel is, in all respects, the same as 
when the bounty was granted. The breadth of the staves is ge- 
nerally about three inches and a half, and the number in a barrel 
is 18. The barrel contains 32 gallons; and the number of hoops 
varies from 16 and 17 to 18. For the West India market an iron 
hoop at each end is added. The effect of these regulations is 
equally beneficial to the public as to the curer ; for, without them, 
or similar checks, boatmen and inexperienced persons would pack 
fish, without regard to quality, mode of cure, or size and descrip- 
tion of barrel ; and a quantity of inferior and bad fish would get 



LOTH. 



207 



into market, which might ultimately create a prejudice against all 
British cured herrings, and lower the price of the commodity so 
far, that no profit would be obtained for those regularly cured* 

The Helmsdale cured herrings are equal in quality to any in 
Britain, and have attained a very high character in the market. 
This excellence may be attributable, in a great degree, to the very 
superior curing-yards, with which all the curers in Helmsds^e have 
supplied themselves. No fish are cured here in the open air, ds is 
frequently done, from the want of accommodation, at other sta- 
tions, greatly to the prejudice of the commodity ; because the rich 
and admired qualities of the herring are of so volatile a quality, 
that the slightest exposure of the fish to the sun, or even to the 
glare of strong daylight, before or during the process of curing, de- 
teriorates the fish. The Helmsdale curing-yards are all perfect in 
their accommodation, and are cool and ample in their construction. 
The success attending the Helmsdale fishery has been so steady 
and progressive, that, although it did not commence until so late 
as the year 1814, when the first doubtful trial was made there, 
the number of barrels cured at Helmsdale, and the creeks within 
what is called, under the Fishery Board Control, the Helmsdale 
District, have increased more than nine-fold, up to the year 1840, 
the numbers, as appears from the subjoined table, in the year 
1815, being 5318 barrels, and in the year 1839, being 46,571 
barrels; and of this last number, no less than 23,815 barrels were 
exported. This rate of increase considerably exceeds that of the 
success over the kingdom generally, the latter having only had an 
increase of six-fold since the establishment, in 1809, of the Fish- 
ery Board, which has so materially advanced the true interests of 
the trade ; the numbers at that time, throughout the whole king- 
dom, being only 90,000 barrels, or not double the number now 
cured in the Helmsdale District alone; while, last year, the whole 
quantity cured in Britain were 550,000 barrels. 

Table of the Numbers of Barrels of Herrings cured, branded, 
and exported, in the Helmsdale District, in each year, from 1815 
to 1840. 





Barrels 


Barrels 


Barrels 




Barrels 


Barrels 


Barrels 


Year. 


Cured. 


Branded. 


Exported. 


Year. 
1821, 


Cured. 


Branded. 


Eiported. 


1815. 


53184 


2121 




20561 


12863 


6585 


1816, 


14798 


.9280 




182-2, 


19632 


11968 


4361 


1817, 


14176 


.4844 


2445 


1823, 


25647 


16583 


8700 


1818. 


22876 


11770 


5642 


1824, 


28804 


18891 


6598 


1819, 


28536 


13940 


4911 


1825, 


34492 


23972 


9749 


1820, 


28199 


17318 


6447 


1826, 


12071 


6663 


1266 



208 



SUTHERLAND8HIRE. 





Barrels 


Barrels 


Barrels 




Barrels 


Barrels 


Barrels 


Year. 


Cured. 


Branded. 


Exported. 


Year. 
1834, 


Cured. 


Branded. 


Exported. 


1827, 


t25753 


17822 


5896 


7302 


3316 


920 


1828, 


17476 


10077 


:^204 


1835, 


28377 


17385 


6517 


1829, 


19857 


12830 


5405 


1836, 


19800 


9516 


7971 


1830, 


23310 


13637 


6923 


1837, 


36247 


19357 


14820 


1831, 


20030 


8824 


5890 


1838. 


46345 


28114 


24294 


1832, 


11138 


6100 


3131 


1839, 


46571 


27647 


23815 


1&33, 


27432 


14315 


7990 











The future prosperity of this most valuable addition to the in- 
dustry of the parish may, with great confidence, be augured, from 
our knowledge of the sure and judicious foundation upon which 
it commenced, and also from the efficient means and resources 
which are now provided, on a permanent footing, for supporting 
the extension and high character of the trade at Helmsdale, in- 
cluding the settlement of native and regularly bred boat-builders 
and coopers, and the establishment also of a steam-mill for sawing 
barrel staves, in the village. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
The only villages in the parish are Helmsdale and Port Gower, 
which are both on the sea coast, and distant about two miles from 
each other. Port Gower is partly supported by some excellent 
land adjoining it, which is divided among a few of the villagers, 
and by a settlement of active fishermen. It possesses a comfort- 
able and pleasantly situated inn ; and the Parliamentary road 
along the coast, towards Caithness, runs along it Helmsdale enjoys 
ample means of communication with all parts of the kingdom, 
having the great North Parliamentary Road running through it, 
which, on one hand, leads to Wick and Thurso, and on the other, 
to all parts of the south of Scotland and England ; while a large 
steamer frequents Wick from Edinburgh, during eight months of 
the year; and the harbour of Helmsdale is often frequented by 
shipping from various ports of Britain and Ireland. The Parlia- 
mentary road through the parish, called the Dunrobin road, was 
completed, under one contract, in the year 1811, and extends 
from Golspie to the Ord, a distance of *2 1 miles and 880 yards, 
and originally cost L. 6000 ; and 13 miles of this road run 
through the parish of Loth. Another road leads from Helmsdale, 
through the Strath of Kildonan, to the North Sea at Bighouse ; 
and a branch road, leading from Lothbeg, through the Glen, 
joins the last-mentioned line of road, to the north of the church 
and manse of Kildonan. The bridge of Helmsdale is a handsome 



LOTH. 209 

Structure of two arches, and each of a span of 70 feet, and its 
erection cost L.2200. It was finished in 1811. 

The first improvement on the harbour of Helmsdale took place 
in 1818, when a pier and breastwork were erected, at an expense 
to the proprietor of L. 1600; but since then, several other sums 
have been expended in extending and enlarging the harbour ; and 
other improvements connected with it are understood to be in con- 
templation. 

Helmsdale has a post-office, one principal and commodious inn, 
and several other public-houses ; and the mail-coach passes and 
repasses through the village, daily. 

A large distillery, close to the town, had been in active opera* 
tion for several years, until last summer, when the circumstances 
of the distillers caused the work to be stopped ; and since then, 
this distillery, and a beer brewery connected with it, have not been 
in operation. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is now, owing to the 
great increase of the population of late years in and around Helms- 
dale, at an inconvenient distance from the greater part of the in« 
habitants, although it is locally situated nearly in the centre of 
the parish. It is a new and very handsome church, and in a com- 
plete state of repair. In order to accommodate the inhabitants of 
Helmsdale, and the increasing population of the eastern extremity 
of the parish, the late Duchess- Countess, and the present Duke 
of Sutherland, have erected a large, convenient, and substantial 
church in Helmsdale, which is now about being finished ; and of 
late years, a clergyman of the Church of Scotland has been resi- 
dent in Helmsdale, who regularly performs divine service there, 
so that church accommodation is amply provided for in this parish. 
The present parish of Loth does not appear to have been a dis- 
tinct religious district before the Reformation, and it is not even 
named in the charter of Erection of the bishopric of Caithness. It 
possessed, however, at that period, several religious chapels, of 
which, that called St John's Chapel, at Helmsdale, was the most 
important and best endowed ; and it is probable that, with the aid 
of these minor religious houses, the present parish of Loth was, 
in Catholic times, divided, qtioad sacra^ between the jurisdictions 
of the Prebendaries of Clvne and Kildonan. A church existed, 
however, at Loth in 1627, for Sir Robert Gordon states, that, in 
that year, the church of Loth was repaired. During the period of 
Scotch Episcopacy, the conjunction of Loth and Clyne appears to 



210 SUTHEBLANDSHIUE. 

have continued ; for some entries about the year 1618 mention, 
that " Andro Andersone, minister" of Clyne, had besides his sti- 
pend, the kirkland of Loth, and at the same time, Walter Ander- 
sone was " reidar at Clyne and Loth," and had his stipend with 
the kirkland of Clyne. In a deed granted by the Andrew Ander- 
son here referred to, he is designated " Ministro veriti Dei apud 
Loithe," and as the paper is only signed by his mark, there is ad- 
ded after it " cannot wreitt myself." Hector Pope, who died 
about the year 1719, was the last minister of Loth who retained 
the Episcopal form of appearing in the pulpit in a surplice. The 
succeeding ministers of Loth were, Robert Robertson, William 
Rose, George Macculloch, George Gordon, and the present 
minister, and Rev. Donald Ross. 

Before the year 17*26, the Presbytery of Dornoch, which in- 
cludes this parish, formed part of the synod of Ross; but on the 
15th May 1726, the General Assembly disjoined this Presbytery 
from the synod of Ross, and erected the presbyteries of Dornoch, 
Caithness, and Tongue, into one synod, as they at present stand ; 
and the meetings of the synod to be held at Dornoch and Thurso, 
per vices. 

Education.*^The parish school is at Port Gower, and is at- 
tended by all the children in the neighbourhood of that village, 
and in the western division of the parish. Another school, sup- 
ported in Helmsdale by the inhabitants, is well attended by the 
children in and around that village. There is also a female teach- 
er in Helmsdale. 

Poor, — The ordinary church collections and annual donations 
by the proprietor are the available funds for the benefit of the 
ordinary poor. In judging of the condition of, and necessary 
support by money payments to, the poor, in a country parish 
like Loth, a very misleading mistake is frequently committed, 
by assuming that their wants and destitution are the same 
as those of the poor in large towns. In such towns, owners of he- 
ritable property never permit part of their subjects to be gratui- 
tously occupied by any indigent person, and the very refuse and 
offals of all. personal effects and articles are sacred, by day and 
night, against all intrusion. On the contrary, in Loth and similar 
parishes, the actual poor have «ver the gratuitous accommodations 
from the proprietor, of dwelling-places in healthy localities, and 
small plats of ground for vegetables, and the rearing of common 
poultry, — of free access to water, open fields, peat mosses, decay- 
ed heather, furze, and brushwood, the products of the shore, and 



LOTH. 211 

the gleanings of the harvest ; from all which, shelter, constant 
fuel, and limited supplies of food are certain, — while in most dis- 
tricts, the charitable seldom fail to add considerably, and in pri- 
vate to the necessities of the deserving poor. Under such cir- 
cumstances as these, a few shillings in addition from the parish 
funds are more valuable than the same sums among the poor of 
towns. In this part of the north of Scotland, the indigent poor 
are never neglected ; but in order to continue to act towards them 
as their wants require, it is now found absolutely necessary to pro- 
tect the northern inhabitants from the hordes of vagrants who have 
been wandering, of late years, from the southern parts of the king- 
dom, over the northern counties, and carrying with them all the 
moral and physical diseases of crowded cities in their most dread* 
ed forms. 

March 1841. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 



The superficial extent of the County of Sutherland is comput- 
ed to be 1865 square miles of land, and 38 square miles of water; 
or l,19d»940 acres of land, and 24,230 acres of water. The ex- 
treme length of the county, in straight lines, at three diflferent 
points, viz. from Inverkirkaig to the Ord of Caithness, is 60 miles; 
from Rhusloir in Assynt, to the Height of Knockfin, is 56 miles ; 
and from Cape Wrath to Drum-Hallasfain, is 42 miles ; while the 
breadth from Dornoch to Strathy-point is 54 miles ; and from 
Rosehall to Whitenhead is 42 miles. Sutherland is situate be- 
tween 57° 55', and 58° 37 of north latitude ; and 34° 43' and 5^ 
23' 30 " west longitude. 

Name. — The name of the county in the earliest writings extant 
is %^e\iSudrland^ — thereafter Southerland^ and now Sutherland, 
and can be traced back to the ninth and tenth centuries, and is 
probably of an older date. It evidently originated among the north- 
men, who acquired settlements about the periods referred to, in 
Caithness and Orkney, and who, from their northern position, 
distinguished the country immediately adjoining them, by a gene« 
ral name, signifying the land south from them. In like manners 
the most southern habitation or township in the county was called 
Suderha (the southern-hall,) and is still known as Sidera, in the 
parish of Dornoch. 

Boundaries. — Sutherland is bounded on the south from the Ord, 
in a south-west direction to the Point of Dornoch, by the Ger- 
man Ocean or Moray Frith ; and thence to the west sea, by the 
county of Ross. The Dornoch Frith, formerly known as the 
River of Portnaculter, and its leading stream the Oykill, separate 
the two counties, in a straight line of about 35 miles. Thence, 
the march wanders among the high grounds, between the two 
seas ; whence the waters shed in opposite directions to the east and 
west, and where the ancient and natural march was departed from 
in favour of Ross-shire, in consequence of an award upon evidence 

• Drawn up by Goorgc Sutherland Taylor, Esq. GoUpie. 



OBSBUVATIONS ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 213 

subsequently found to have been false. The windings of the pre^ 
sent march at this part of the interior, are of considerable length; 
but the distance in a straight line from the source of the Oykill, 
to the east end of Loch Veyatie, where water again separates the 
counties, is only about 8 or 9 miles. Loch Veyatie, Fewn Loch, 
and the river and bay of Kirkaig, all within Sutherland, complete 
the boundary to the West Sea. The western boundary of Su- 
therland is the West Sea or Atlantic Ocean ; and its northern 
boundary, from Cape Wrath to the confines of Caithness, is the 
North Sea. There are several islands along both these coasts, 
which form parts of the county. The county of Caithness forms 
the eastern boundary of Sutherland ; the two counttes being se- 
parated by the summit of a high range of hills, — well defined, — 
from Fea-Drum-Hallastain at the North Sea, to the Ord of 
Caithness at the southern extremity.* 

Physical Appearances. — The interior of the county is mark- 
ed by a lofty range of mountains, which separate the west and 
north coasts of the county from its southern districts. This range 
commencing with Suilven in Assynt, and ending with the two 
fien-Griams, near Caithness, contains the highest mountains in the 
county, many of them rising to heights of from 2500 feet to 3230 
feet, and presenting varied and very remarkable outlines. The 
alpine character of this extended range is also preserved in the 
magnitude of many lakes at the base of the mountains, in the 
depth of the openings and passes, in the expansion of widely spread 
mountain sides, and in a variety of romantic valleys, and rugged 
glens and hollows. Many parts of the interior also form exten- 
sive table-lands, chiefly of moss, and unbroken by any marked fea- 
tures. The western and northern districts of the county, sepa- 
rated by the interior mountains from the southern parts, are quite 
dissimilar to them in appearance and character. Thus, the 
district of Assynt and Edderachillis, along the west coast, is one 
of the most remarkable in Scotland, for the general ruggedness 

* In a royal charter defining the bounds of the county of Sutherland, in the year 
1631, the following is the description giren : <* Beginning upon the north at the 
Btrypc called Faehallodaill, which divides Strathnaver from Caithness, and fra that 
south-east by the top of the hills to the Ord upon the sea coste, including the haill 
bounds of the Ord, and thair fra soutb-wcst'till the mouth of the water of Tayne, alias 
Purtnacutar ; and fra that west to the water of Oikill, comprehending therein the 
haill lands and country of Fairincostar, alias Sleischeillis ; and fra that west till Loch- 
bronie and Coygatlie, so far as the diocese of Caithness extends, comprehending thairin 
the said lands and country of Assynt into the west sea, and fra thence north up the 
sea coste till the northmost point of the land called Ardurines ; and fra thence east to 
the river and water of UaUodaill ; and fra that east to the said strype called Facballo- 
daUl.** 



214 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

and inequalities of its surface, and for a great number of rocky 
eminences, and of second-rate lakes, which characterize its 
scenery. Along the north coast, the same description of sce- 
nery continues, but in a more modi6ed form, and softened by an 
open track of arable land at Durness ; by the picturesque beauty 
of Tongue, and its improved policies; by the extensive and beau- 
tiful valley of Strathnaver; and the more tame but rather fertile 
strath of Hallodale. The sea coast of these two districts, also, 
presents headlands, and numerous cliffs of the boldest description. 
The eastern and southern parts of the county, again, are mark- 
ed by several extensive and pleasant valleys, surrounded by high 
hills, by rich pasture grounds, and by extensive tracks of well-cul- 
tivated arable land, in the parishes of Criech, Dornoch, Golspie, 
Clyne, and Loth. The sea coast in this direction is flat, with 
sandy shores, except at the eastern extremity of the county, where 
the majestic headland of the Ord .stands erect out of the German 
Ocean. 

Mountains. — The mountains of Sutherland are very remarkable 
features of the county, — in their number, — their height, — their sin- 
gular and varied outlines, — and the detached position of a few of 
them. The altitude of the highest of these mountains has b^n 
ascertained to be as follows : — 

Ben More of Assynt, 3431 feet high. Ben Uarie« 



Ben Klibreck, 


3164 


Ben Hope, 


3061 


Fionareni 


3015 


Ben Ilee, 


285A 


Ben Spionnue, 


2366 


Ben Armin, 


2306 


Ben Griam-more, • 


1935 



Ben Uarie« 


. 1923 feet high. 


Ben Vealicli, 


1838 


Ben Horn/ 


. 1712 


Ben Sraorale, 


1667 


Ben Lundie^ 


. 1467 


Ben Hutic. . 


1345 


Ben Bhraggie, . 


. 1282 



Rivers, — The Sutherland rivers are very numerous; but as all 
of them have their source in^the interior parts of this county, and 
do not receive any tributary streams or supplies from other coun- 
ties, except two rivers that join the Oykill from Ross-shire, they 
are not remarkable for size, or the volume of their waters. The 
larger rivers are all valuable for their salmon-fishings ; but none 
of them are navigable, except the estuaries of the Oykill and of 
the Fleet, for short distances. The largest of these rivers is the 
Oykill, which has its rise in Loch-Aish, — a wild mountain«lake 
near the eastern limb of Ben -More of Assynt This stream forms 
the boundary between the counties of Ross and Sutherland, and 
is augmented in its course by a number of burns, by the rivers of 



ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 216 

Eanaig, from the Koss hills, and Cassley, and Shin, two large 
Sutherland rivers. After the junction of these streams, their 
united waters are generally called the Kyle of Sutherland ; and 
immediately above Bonar, where the Kyle is crossed by an elegant 
iron bridge, having one arch of 150 feet span, the River Carron 
from Ross-shire flows into it. The river thus augmented widens 
considerably ; and downwards, to Tarbetness, it is now generally 
named the Dornoch Frith, although, for several centuries, it was 
known as the River of Portnaculter. The tide flows up to a point 
at a short distance above the junction of t(ie Cassley and Oykill, 
and vessels of small burden navigate the frith up to Bonar Bridge^ 
although the formidable sand-banks, known as the Gizzen Briggs, 
at the entrance of the frith, formed by the descending stream being 
here first resisted by the flowing tides from the Moray Frith, ren- 
ders the entrance into the frith intricate at all times, and often 
very dangerous. The Cassley and the Shin are both large and 
handsome rivers, the former flowing along a lengthened valley of 
the same name, and the latter issuing out of Loch Shin, and hav- 
ing a course of six miles. There are other three rivers along the 
east and south coast of the county. The River Fleet forms an 
estuary, now known as the Little Ferry, but formerly called the 
River Unes. The upper part of the Fleet, which juns through 
Strathfleet, is an active rivulet, which, as it increases in size, flows 
with sluggish stream for several miles before it reaches the opening 
of the estuary. The next river is the Brora, having a course of 
about five miles from Loch Brora, before it enters the sea at the 
village of the same name ; and the only other river in this quarter 
is the handsome stream of the Helmsdale, which, after a course 
of upwards of twenty miles through the Strath of Kildonan, falls 
into the sea at Helmsdale. 

On the north coast of the county, the river of Hallodale, having 
a course of about twenty miles through the strath of the same 
name, joins the North Sea at the bay of the Tor of Bighoiise, 
near the boundary with Caithness. The next river westward is 
rather a small one, the Strathy, flowing from a lake of the same 
name. Further on, the Naver enters the sea at a sandy bay of 
the coast. This river has a course of about thirty miles, from 
Loch Naver, through the strath of that name, and is about the 
same size as the Helmsdale. The Borgie or Torrisdale river, 
a much smaller stream, flows into the sea, within one mile's dis- 
tance from the mouth of the Naver ; but farther westward, as far as 



216 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

Cape Wrath, there is no other stream deserving the name of river, 
except the rather unimportant rivers of Hope and Dionard. The 
former has a very short course of about two miles from Loch Hope 
to the sea, but carries along with it a considerable body of water ; 
and the Dionard, after forcing its way through all the obstructions 
of a particularly rugged mountain strath, silently enters the head 
of the Bay of Durness. 

The rivers of the west coast having short courses through 
wild districts, are more remarkable for the turbulence of their 
streams, than for their size. The Inchard is rather a small stream, 
but has sufficient water to afford a salmon-fishing. The Laxford, 
after a short course from Loch Stack, falls into Loch Laxford, a salt 
water loch. This stream is proverbially an excellent salmon river, 
and affords the best angling of any river in Britain, of its size. The 
Inver is a very rapid and headlong river, issuing from Loch As-, 
synt, and falling into Loch Inver, a deep sea-bay ; and the Kir- 
kaig, which divides Ross from Sutherland, is a tolerably large sized 
stream, having its source and its whole supply of water from Su- 
therland, it being wholly a river of this county. 

Lakes. — The fresh-water lakes of Sutherland are very nume- 
rous, and many of them are of large size. The largest are con- 
nected with, or amidst, the interior range of lofty mountains. The 
first, as to size, is Loch Shin, the deep reservoir of an immense 
body of water that reposes on the heights of the parish of Lairg, 
and stretches towards Assynt. This lake, including the small 
Loch Griam, at its west end, and which is almost connected with 
it, is in a straight line, eighteen miles long. It is one of a remark- 
able chain of lakes, which, with short intervening spaces, extends 
from within ten miles of Bonar Bridge, the highest navigable 
point of the Dornoch Frilh, on the east coast, to Loch Laxford, 
an arm of the Atlantic. The other lakes of this chain are Loch 
Merkland,* three miles in length, and only distant from Loch 
Griam about one mile and a-half. The next in succession is Loch 
More, or, more properly, Loch Rynie, which is only at a distance 
of two miles from the west end of Loch Merkland. Loch More 
is about four miles and a half in length ; and at a distance of one 

* The name of this lake, as also Stack and Laxford^ are plainly Scandinavian 
names. Mark^ signifying a forest, as well as the march of a territory, orjiiiet terrec, 
would, in either sense, be very applicable here ; I^och Merkland being within the 
Dirie-more Forest, and the chain of lakes, (tf which it is the centre, having been an- 
ciently the boundary between Ardurness and the old estate of ^kelbo. Stack is the 
descriptive name of the conical mountain that rises from Loch Stack; and Laxford 
(or LaZ'tiord) is palpably the Salmon Frith. 



ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHEULAND. 217 

mile from its western extremity is Loch Stack, a large and nearly 
circular lake of about one mile in diameter, with a contracted limb 
towards the west, which brings the deep water of the lake to with- 
in three miles of the head of the sea water of Loch Laxford. 

In Edderachillis and Durness, many other lakes of considerable 
size, add to the beauty of the scenery, or agreeably break the uni- 
form bleakness and sterile appearance of parts of the country ; but 
Loch Hope, which is in this district, requires to be separately no- 
ticed, as being a singularly romantic and placid lake of six miles 
in length, situate at the foot of the majestic Ben Hope. The dis- 
trict of Assynt lies to the south of the chain of lakes already no- 
ticed, and may be said to be studded with lakes, having upwards 
of 200 moderately sized lakes, besides smaller tarns. Loch As- 
synt, about six miles and a half in length, is one of the most pic- 
turesque of all the Sutherland lakes, and presents many splendid 
views. Lochs Urigill, Cama, Veyatie, Na-gana, Beanoch, Gorm- 
loch, and Culfreich, in the same parish, are also large, and some 
of them romantic sheets of water. 

On the other hand. Loch Loyal, which reposes along the east 
side of the splendid mountain of the same name, is, with its con- 
tinuation, Loch Craigie, seven miles in lengtti. To the south- 
west, Loch Maedie, having some small wooded islands, is three 
miles long; and about five miles to the eastward. Loch Naver 
extends six miles along the foot of Ben Klibreck. On the east 
side of this mountain, are the secluded but very picturesque Lochs 
Corr and Vealloch, — the former three, and the latter two miles in 
length, and both almost unknown to the public. Still farther to 
the eastward are Loch Strathy, about a mile and-a-half long, and 
the lakes which distinguish the upper parts of the parish of Kil- 
donan ; but of these we will only enumerate Loch Badanloch, 
Loch-na-Clar, Loch-na-kuen, Loch Truderscaig, Loch-ari-cliny, 
and Loch-in-ruar. 

In the east district of Sutherland, several small lakes occur ; 
but Loch Brora is the only one of any note. It is greatly admir- 
ed, and its banks exhibit many of the bold and wild features of 
the Highlands, combined with verdant meadows, fertile fields, 
and vigorous plantations, amidst which the waters of the lake con- 
tract and expand at three diflFerent points, in its length of three 
miles and a-half. There are some other smaller lakes in the pa- 
rishes of Clyne, Golspie, Rogart, Lairg, Criech, and Dornoch ; 

SUTHERLAND. P 



218 GENEUAL OBSERVATIONS. 

but none of them require to be individually noticed in this general 
Report. 

Islands, — The i$lands belonging to Sutherland are all situate 
along the west and northern coasts. They are very numerous, 
and some of them are inhabited. Handa, on the Edderachillis 
coast, is the most remarkable of these islands, from the altitude of 
its cliffs at one side, and as being the resort of innumerable sea« 
fowl during the hatching season. The Stack and Skerries, two 
remarkable islands, or rather lofty and narrow rocks, are the most 
distant from shore, of the Sutherland islands, and are resorted to 
in the summer months, by some of the Sutherland tenants, in quest 
of seals, which are found there in great numbers. 

Rural Affairs, — The proportion of arable land is very small, 
compared with the extent of pasture ranges in the county; but 
the system of agriculture pursued by the tenants of arable farms 
is not excelled in any part of the more favoured districts in Scot* 
land. The small tenants rear black-cattle, which are generally 
sold when young, and, being sound and improving animals, are 
eagerly purchased for the south country feeders. Cheviot sheep 
are the staple produce of the county ; and it is computed, that the 
permanent stock maintained in Sutherland is not under 170,000. 

Roads. — Before the' year 1811 there were no formed roads 
within the county ; but in that year, the first Parliamentary roads 
were completed, and since then the rapidity with which the whole 
county has been opened up, and intersected by leading lines and 
cross-branches of excellent roads, and all necessary bridges, is one 
of the most remarkable events in the annals of northern improve* 
ments. The Parliamentary Commissioners effected a great deal 
by the erection of Bonar Bridge, which opens the communication 
into the county, and across the Dornoch Frith, without being 
compelled to encounter the always disagreeable, and often preca- 
rious passage of a ferry ; and by the completion of a road from 
Bonar Bridge to the Ord, as the great and leading road from the 
south into Caithness; and also by the completion of another road 
from Bonar Bridge to Tongue on the north coast. Still, with 
the exception of these two roads, the county was as completely 
shut out from the rest of the empire as formerly ; but at this junc- 
ture, a new era for the completion and maintenance of all neces- 
sary lines of road, commenced to the county ; and the untired 
exertions, the liberality and patriotism of the late Duke of Suther- 
land, effected this mighty and lasting advantage for the county of 



ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 219 

Sutherland, which has not only opened up its resources, and pav- 
ed the way for its further and future advancement in prosperity, 
but has alto been of incalculable importance in a national point of 
new, as consolidating remote and hitherto secluded districts with 
the rest of the empire, and securing all the other collateral bene- 
fits of well directed labour, and the increase of local wealth and 
public revenue. 

Eedesiastieal State. — There are thirteen parishes in the coun- 
ty of Sutherland, besides part of the parish of Reay in Caithness. 
Of these the parishes of Assynt, Clyne, Criech, Dornoch, Gol- 
spie, Kildonan,. Lairg, Loth, and Rogart, nine in number, consti- 
tute^ the Presbytery of Dornoch; and the minister of the Go- 
â–¼emment church of Stoer, in the parish of Assynt, is now an ad- 
ditional member of this Presbytery. The remaining four parishes 
of Durness^ Edderachillis, Parr, and Tongue, constitute the Pres- 
bytery of Tongue, which has two additional members in the mi- 
nisters of the Government churches of Kinlochbervie, in the pa- 
rish of Edderachillis, and of Strathy, in the parish of Farr. 

CMl History. — The early history of this county has not been so 
satisfutorily traced as to authorize an epitome of it in a concise report 
like the present Suffice it to say, that its early annals are only to be 
traced in the history of the ancient Earls of Sutherland, who ap- 
pear, at the very first dawn of our authentic history, as the power- 
ful and apparently long-settled rulers and proprietors of the terri- 
tories still enjoyed by their lineal descendant, the present Duke of 
Sutherland. Sir Robert Gordon's History of the Earldom of Su- 
therland, which was written in 1630, commences its narrative 
about the beginning of the thirteenth century, and is continued 
till the time when it was written. It affords ample details, expressed 
in quaint language, of the affairs of Sutherland, and has been sub- 
jected to several tests, by the examination of other writings and 
contemporary authorities, which prove the correctness of his lead- 
ing facts. 

There has been no history of the county written since 1630 ; but 
materials exist for such a work, including'public events in the north 
of Scotland, in the stirring thnes of the Revolution of 1 688, and 
of the Rebellions of 1715, 1719, and 1746 ; which are, at present, 
either unknown, or ill understood by the public. 

The Sutherland Family. — The foregoing brief observations on the 
county of Sutherland, may, with great propriety, be concluded })y 



220 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

a short notice of the antiquity of this illustrious house, whose head 
has been Scotland's Premier Earl, for some generations. There is 
ample written evidence of Lords and Earls of Sutherland, in the early 
part of the thirteenth century ; and there is every probability in 
the supposition that they were of a far more ancient standing, when 
we find the first written notices of them in deeds, by which 
they conveyed large tracks of country from their patrimonial estates^ 
as gifts for behoof of the church. From this early period, the li- 
neal descent of the succeeding Earls rests on the most undoubted 
evidence that can be afibrded by crown charters, marriage-contracts, 
and the services of heirs. 

There is written evidence that Hugo Freskyn was proprietor of 
Sutherland between the year 1186 and 1214. Without arguing 
here the probability that this person held the title of Comes or 
Early there is undeniable proof that his son, ^^ Willielmus Dominus 
de Sutherlandia, filius et haeres quondam Hugonis Freskyn," died 
Earl of Sutherland about the year 1248. He was succeeded by 
his son, William the second Earl, who held the title forseventy-seven 
years, and died in 1325. He signed the letter from the nobility 
of Scotland to the Pope in 1320, and was with the Scottish army 
at Bannockburn, and at Brigland, in Yorkshire, in 1322. The 
third Earl was Kenneth, son of the last Earl, and he fell at the 
battle of Hallidon Hill, 22d July 1333. He was succeeded by 
his eldest son, William, the fourth Earl, who married the Lady 
Margaret Bruce, second daughter of King Robert the Bruce, by 
whom he had two sons, John, who died in England while detained 
a hostage for the ransom of his uncle, David II., and William, 
who succeeded his father; and as all the subsequent Earls of Su- 
therland are directly descended from him, they are also lineally 
descended maternally from the royal family of Scotland, before 
the accession of the Stuarls to the Throne. This Earl was a 
very powerful Noble, and held lands in the shires of Aberdeen 
and Inverness, which he gifted, before the death of his son, ihe 
hostage, to several potent persons, (viri potentes^ as they are called), 
in order to secure their support to his son's title to the Crown, 
who had been selected by King David to succeed him. Thus he 
conveyed the lands of Bonne, Enzie, Kincardine, Tomortine, Kin- 
tore, Kilcairne, Fetternairn, Dunnotter Ca.«*tle, Enzie, Boyne, 
Cluny, Dunbeath, Downy, Aboyne, and the Barony of Urquhart, to 
the Hays, Sinclairs, Erasers, Ogilvies, and Gordons. William, the 
fifth Earl, the son of Earl William and Lady Margaret Bruce, was at 



ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 221 

the battle of Otterburn, 5tb August 1388, and died in 1389. He was 
succeeded by his son, Robert, the sixth Earl, who died in 1442; and 
Earl Robert was succeeded by his son, John, the seventh Earl, who 
dying in 1460, was succeeded by his son, John, the eighth Earl, 
who died in 1508, leaving one son and one daughter* The son, 
John, the ninth Earl, died without issue in 1514, and was succeed- 
ed by his sister-german Elizabeth, who thus, in her own right, was 
Countess of Sutherland, and, consequently, was the tenth person 
who held the title. She married Lord Aboyne, and, dying in 
1535, was succeeded by her son, John, the eleventh Earl, who was 
poisoned at Helmsdale in 1567, and was succeeded by his son 
Alexander, the twelfth Earl, who died in 1 594. He was succeed- 
ed by his son, John, the thirteenth Earl, who died in 1615* John 
was succeeded by his son, also named John, the fourteenth Earl, 
who died in 1679, and was succeeded by his son, George, the fif- 
teenth Earl, who died in 1703. Earl George was succeeded by 
his son, John, the sixteenth Earl He, Earl John, rendered emi- 
nent services to his country, — in the senate as a Peer, and in the 
field as a General in the Army, and obtained the Royal authority 
for adding to his paternal coat of arms, the double Tressure cir'- 
confeurdelire^ to denote his descent from the Royal family of Scot- 
land. He died in 1733, and was succeeded by his grandson, 
William, the seventeenth Earl, who died in 1750, and was suc- 
ceeded by his son, William, the eighteenth Earl. This last Earl 
died in 1766, leaving only one infant daughter, the late Duchess- 
Countess of Sutherland. Her right of succession to the long-de- 
scended honours and earldom of her direct ancestors, was disput- 
ed, on the ground that the title did not descend to heirs-female ; 
but after a long, full, and arduous contest, during the young 
Countess's minority, the House of Lords, on the 21st day of March 
1771, solemnly ^^ Resolved and adjudged, by the Lords Spiritual 
and Temporal in Parliament assembled. That the claimant, Eliza- 
beth Sutherland, has a right to the title, honour, and dignity of 
the Earldom of Sutherland, as heir of the body of William, who 
was Earl of Sutherland in 1275." The Countess of Sutherland 
married in 1785, George Granville, Viscount Trentham, eldest 
son of Granville, first Marquis of Stafibrd, by his second wife. 
Lady Louisa Egerton, daughter of Scroop, first Duke of Bridge- 
water. His Lordship was successively, Earl Gower, and Marquis 
of Stafford, and was created Duke of Sutherland in 1833. The 
Duchess of Sutherland being also Countess of Sutherland in her 



222 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

own right, was the nioeteenth representative of the family who held 
the title, and which remained with Her Ladyship for the long 
period of 72 years, 7 months, and 13 days ; she having died in 
London on 29th January J 839. Her Ladyship was succeeded in 
the Earldom of Sutherland, by her eldest son, the present George 
Granville, Duke of Sutherland, K.G., who, thus, is the twentieth 
Earl of Sutherland, in direct lineal descent, from the first Earl of 
this long ennobled family. 

The Duke and Earl of Sutherland is descended, in the pater- 
nal line, from several ancient and noble families of England : Isty 
From Sir Allan Gower of Stittenham, — an estate still held by his 
Grace, — who was Sheriff of York at the period of the Conquest, 
(1066); and, according to others, from William Fitz-Guhyer of 
Stittenham, temp. H. H. a. d. 1 167. 2dj From Richard Leve- 
son of Willenhall, in the county of Stafford, who was grandfather 
to Richard Leveson, temp. Ed. I., a. d. 1289. 3^ His Grace is 
also, through his paternal descent, the representative of the Gran- 
villes. Earls of Bath, and, as such, is descended from Robert, the 
youngest son of Rollo, first Duke of Normandy. This descent is 
stated in the first patent of peerage granted to the family by 
Charles H., which bears, " Whereby he justly claims his descent 
from the youngest son of the Duke of Normandy, as we ourselves 
do from the eldest.'^ This descent makes his Grace Count of 
Corbeil, Baron Torigny, and De Granville. 

In his father's maternal line, his Grace is descended from the 
Princess Mary, second daughter of Henry VII. and, as such, 
would have been a claimant to the throne, had the will of Henry 
VIII. been carried into effect, (Hallam's Constitutional History of 
England, Vol. i. p. 316.) In the same line of descent, his Grace 
is one of the claimants to the ancient barony (in fee) of Lord 
Strange of Knockyn, now in abeyance among the representatives 
of Ferdinando, fifth Eari of Derby. 

His Grace^s father and mother had two descents in common ; 
the one through two females, descendants of Richard de Abriucis, 
Earl of Chester, who married respectively into the Derby and 
Bruce fiimilies ; and through the Scotch line, the late Duke of 
Sutherland was descended from a daughter of William the Lion 
of Scotland, through the De Ross of Hamlake. 

March 1841. 



ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 



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INDEX. 



Achumore, spring at, 107 

Agriculture and rural economy, 8| 19, 
36, 52. 63, 74, 97, 113, 129, 158, 
178,203 

Agriculture of the county, general re- 
marks on, 218 

Antiquities, 33, 50, 71, 93, 1 1 1 

Arch, natural, on Seal Isluid, 167 

Ardvrack castle, ruins of, 111 

Arkle mountain, 119 

Assynt, parish of, 105 — loch, 107 

Ayalanche in Edderachillis during 1838, 
121 

Aurora borealis, appearance of, during 
the day, 86 

Badan loch, 137 

Balnakiel house, 94 

Balvraid loch, drainage of, 8 

Ben-a-Bragidh, 24 

Ben Clyhric, 58, 66 

Ben Hope, 83 

Ben Horn, 150 

Ben Hutig, 165 

Ben Laoghal, 165 

Benmore, 105 

Ben Stac, 119 

Ben Ormin, 150 

Black water, the, 151 

Bonar bridge, 20-— village of, 20 

Borgie water, the, 69, 170 

Borley loch, 87 

Botany, 49, 70, 90, 108, 125, 138, 172, 
196 

Brora loch, 150 — river, 48, 151 — vil- 
lage, 161 

Calda house, ruins of, 111 

Cam loch, the, 107 

Camisendiknbay, anchorage of, 87 

Cape Wrath, lighthouse on, 94 

Capley water, the, 17 

Camaig water, the, 3 

Carrol rock, the, 149 

Castle Cole, remains of, 154 

Castle Varrich, promontory of, 166 

Cave, artificial, at Kintradwell, 201 

Caves in Assynt, 106— in Farr, 67— at 
Smo and Tresgill, 85 

Chapels, ancient, in Loth, 201 

Choaric island, 86 

Cholera, appearance of, at Golspie, 45 — 
in Helmsidale, 192 

SUTHERLAND. 



Churches, see Ecclesiastical Statistics 

Climate, see Meteorology 

Clyne, parish of, 149 — improvements in, 
162 

Coal, discovery of, at Clashmore, 3 — 
workings at Brora. 152 

Corrie, Druidical remains at, 50 

Craggie loch, 48 

Craig bar, remains at, 154 

Craig-Bhokie and Craig-Boddich, re- 
markable cliffs of, 191 

Craspul loch, 87 

Criech, parish of, 17 — lochs in, 17 

Crona, island of, 106 

Cuniack mountain, 105 

Danes, invasion and defeat of the, in 
1259, 1— defeat of, at Drinleah, 18 

Danish remains in parish of Farr, 71 

Davy, Sir Humphry, sketch of the geo- 
logy of Clyne by, 151 — and Golspie, 
26 

Decrease of population, causes of the, 
73 

Defeat of the Earl of Cromarty in 1745, 
199 

Dempster of Skibo, family of, 4 

Dinard loch, 87 — water, 88 

Dim loch, 169 

Dornoch, tradition regarding the origin 
of the name, 1 — parish of, 1 — frith, 
3— town, 6, 1 1 — cathedral, 12 

Doune hill, vitrified^fort on, 18 

Drinleah, defeat of the Danes at, 18 

Dniidical circle near Morvich, 34 — re- 
mains at Corrie, 50 — at Clachtoll, 1 1 1 

Druim-na-Coup, battle of, 176 

Drumderg, battle of, 191 

Duffus, Lord, 4 

Dun Domigill, ruins of, 93 

Dunrobin castle, with view, 34 — glen, 
24 

Durness, parish of, 82 — immense for- 
mer extent of, 82 — subdivisions of, 
83 

Ecclesiastical statistics, 12,21, 41, 54, 
64,76, 102, 115,132, 148, 160, 181, 
209 — general view of, 223 

Edderachillis, parish of, 118— subdivi- 
sions of, 119 

Education, 14, 22, 42, 55, 64, 77, 102, 
116, 132, 148,161,182,210 

Q 



226 



SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 



k 



EriboU loch, 87 

Evlix river, 3 

Farr, parish of, 66 — changes in, 79 

Farralarie loch, 25 

Fisheries, herring and sea, 11, 39, 75, 

99, 129, 195, 204 
Fisheries, salmon, 20, 39, 49, 75, 99, 

139, 159, 179, 195. 204 
Fleet water, the, 25, 47, 48— mound of, 

40 
Flodden, march of the Caithness men 

to, and superstition derived therefrom, 

198 
Freasgail, caves of, 167 
Freestone, see Quarries 
Friendly society, 15 
Fuel, 16, 43, 56, 133, 184 
Garvellan Island, 85 
General observations on the county, 212 
Geology and mineralogy, 3, 17, 25, 48, 

58, 69, 88, 108, 122, 138, 151, 170, 

193 
Gillander*s cave, 25 
Gizzing Briggs, the, 2 
Glencul loch, 121 
Glendhu loch, 121 
Golspie, parish of, 24 — bum, 24 — ruins 

of old church, 33— viUage, 39 
Gordon of Embo, family of, 4 
Gordon, Sir Robert, his history of the 

Sutherlands, 4 
Griam-more mountain, 136 
Gun, history of the clan of, 140 
Hallodale river, 214 
Handa isle, with geological sections, 120 
Helmsdale, strath of, 134 — river, 135, 

137 — ^village, 208— -herring fishery, 

history of, 204 
Herring, see Fisheries 
Hoan island, 86 
Hope loch, 87 — ^water, 87 
Horn loch, 25 
House of Tongue, the, 176 
Houses of SuUierland, old and new con- 
trasted, 123 
Husbandry, systems of, 10, 19, 38, 75, 

98 
Die river, 137 
Inchard water, 120 
Inns, 16, 23, 43, 56, 79, 117, 184 
Inver loch, 108 
Inverkiikaig, waterfidl of, 108 
Ishour loch, 87 

Islandt artificial, in loch Brora, 155 
Juno, wreck of the, 60 
KeanloGhbervie, quoad sacra parish of, 

118 
Kei^ feud between the, and the Guns, 

14S 
KjHft MMiufiMtory, 100— decrease of, 

MkOly CMctde of, 151 



Kilkalmkill or Carrol, family of, 31 

Kildonan, parish of, 133 

Kinloch water, 170 

Klett island, 106 

Kyle of Durness, the, 86 

Kyle of Scow, the, 108 

Lairg, parish of, 58 

Language, character, &c. of the popula- 
tion, 7, 35, 51, 63, 74, 95, 112, 128, 
156, 177, 202 

Laoghal loch, 169 

Laxford water, 120 

Libraries, 61, 182 

Lighthouse at Cape Wrath, 94 

Little Ferry estuary and harbour, 2, 41 

Live-stock, breeds of, 10, 28, 37, 53, 
98, 130 

Lochinver, viUage of, 114 

Lochs— Badan, 137— Boriey, 37— Bro- 
ra, 150— Cam, 107— Craggie, 48— 
Craspul,87— Dinard,87— Dini, 169— 
EriboU, 87— Farralarie, 25— Glencul, 
121— Glendhu, 121— Hope, 87— 
Horn, 25 — Inver, 108 — Ishour, 87 — 
Laoghal, 169 — Lundie, 25 — Maedie, 
169— Moir, 120, 122— Monar, 72— 
Na-cuen, 137 — Naver, 68— Sabichie, 
25— Shin,58— Stac 120, 122— Stra- 
thy, 68 — various, in Kildonan, 137 

Loth, parish of, 18&--gleD of, 191— Te- 
mains in, 191 

Lundie loch, 25 

Mackay, notices of the dan of, 72 — Ge- 
neral, 93— Hugh, 60— Rev. John, 59 

Mackenzie, Rev. William, 174 

Macleod, Angus, tradition regarding. 111 

Madeod of Assynt, fiunily of, 110 

Macleod, the betrayer of Montrose, 109 

Macpherson, Professor, birth-place of, 32 

Maedie loch, 169 

Manganese ore, found at Rosehall, 17 

Marble quarries at Ledbeg, 114 

Meteorology and climate, 2, 25, 47, 68, 
86, 106, 120, 136, 168, 192 

Mineralogy, see Geology 

Moir loch, 120, 122 

Monar loch, 72 

Montrose, betrayal of, 109 — confine- 
ment of, in Skibo castle, 6 

Moray Frith, 193 

Mound of Fleet, the, 40 

Mountains — Arkle, 119 — Ben ^Bra- 
gidh, 24— Ben Qybric, 58, 66— Ben 
Hope, 83— Ben Horn, 150 — Ben 
Hutig, 165— Ben More, 105— Ben 
Ormin, 150— Ben Stac, 119— Cu- 
itiack,105— Griam>more, 136 — Laog- 
hal, 165 — Morvich, 24 — Sugarloaf, 
106 

Muuro, Sir Hector, 31 

Murray, Bishop Gilbert, 12 

Naver loch 68 — water, 69 



INDEX. 



227 



Novar, family of, 31 
Oldney island, 106 
Ofd head, the, 190 
Oykill river, 17, 214 
Pauperifon, see Poor 
Picdsh forts at Dunrobin, 34— in Helms- 
dale, 146 
Plantations and planting, 9, 19, 53, 74 
Poor, management of the, 15, 23, 43, 
56, 65, 79, 103, 117, 133^ 148, 183, 
210 
Population returns, 6, 18, 35, 51, 62, 
72, 95, 112, 128, 147, 155, 176, 201 
Population, language, &c. of, see Lan- 
guage — causes of decrease in» 73 
Port Gower, village of, 208 
Prison of Dornoch, 15 
Quarries, freestone, 3, 11, 38, 159 
Rabbit islands, the, 167 
Reay, family of, 173 
Rent, rates of, 36, 98, 130, 179 
Rheumatism, prevalence of, in Golspie, 

25 
Rbiaos water, 170 
Rispond harbour, 100 
Rivers and bums — Blackwater, 151 — 
Borgie, 69, 170— Brora, 48, 151— 
Capley, 17 — Camaig, 3--Dinard, 88 
— EvIjx, 3— Fleet, 25, 47— Gol^ie, 
24— Hallodale,214— Helmsdale, 135, 
137— Hope, 87— lUe, 137— Inchard, 
120 — Laxford, 120— -Naver, 69— 
Oykill, 17, 214— Rhians, 170— Shin, 
17— Strathey, 69 
Roads and bridges, 21, 39, 53, 180 
Rob Donn, the Gaelic bard, 93 
Rogart, parish of, 46 
Saint's island, the, 167 
Salachie loch, 25 
Salmon, see Fisheries 
Salt pans at Brora, 152 
Savings banks, 15,78, 115, 132, 162, 

183 
Schools, see Education 



Sculomy, creek of, 168 

Seal ishind, the, 167 

Shin water, 17 — ^loch, 58 

Silver rock, the, 24 

Skelbo casUe, ruins of, 6 

Skibo castle, confinement of Montrose 
in, 6 

Sku, Kyle of, 108 

Smo cave, 84 

Sova, island of, 106 

Spinningdale, village of, 20 

Springs, chalybeate, at Achnaraoin, 138 

Stac loch, 120, 122 

Strathachvaich, 2 

Strathbrora, 47, 149 

Strathcaimaig, 2 

Strathfleet, 46 

Strathnaver, 67 

Strathy, church at, 76 — ^loch, 68— water, 
69 

Stronchrubie, remains at, 112 

Sugarloaf mountain, the, 106 

Sutherland, notices of the family of, 5, 
29,219 

Sutherlandshire,general observations on, 
212 — mountains of, 214 — drivers, 214 
lakes, 216 

Talmuie bay, 168 

Tides at Cape Wrath, 87 

Tober Massan, well of, 91 

Tongue, parish of, 164 — bay, 168 

TorquiPs cave, 25 

Torrisdale bay, 168 

Tradition regarding Earl of Suther-^ 
land, 1 

Tresgiil, caves at, 85 
Tubemach loch, 150 
Tumuli in parish of Lairg, 62 
Varrich castle, ruins of, 175 
Vitrified fort on hUl of Criech, 18 
Wages, rates of, 10, 36, 75, 98, 130, 

179 
Zoology, 3, 25, 49, 70, 89, 123, 138, 
152, 171, 195 



PRINTED BY JOHN STARK, 
OLD ASSEMBLY CC08E, EDINBUBOII. 




CONTENTS. 



BOWER, 


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PAGE 114 


CANI8BAT, 








21 


DUN NET, 


• 


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34 


HALKIRK, 








68 


LATHERON, 


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• 


t 


83 


OLRICK, 








59 


RBAY, 


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• 


• 


12 


THURSO, 








1 


WATTEN, 


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49 


WICK, 








117 



% 



f ! 



} 



PARISH OF THURSO.* 

PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. W. R. TAYLOR, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

^am^.— The name of this parish is taken from that of the river 
which runs through it. It is made up of the words Thor^ the 
name of one of the great northern deities, and aa^ which, in the 
Icelandic dialect, signifies a river ; and so means Thorns river. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The mean length of the parish is 
about 7 miles, and the breadth about 4f , and the area about 34 
square miles. It is bounded on the north, by the sea ; on the 
west, south, and east, by the parishes of Reay, Halkirk, and 01« 
rig respectively. Its form is that of an irregular quadrilateral 
figure. 

Topographical Appearances, — It rises by a gentle acclivity from 
the sea shore, and in no part attains to any very great elevation. 
It presents various irregularities and undulations on its surface ; 
but, speaking generally, the land is flat The coast, which ex- 
tends about eight miles, is in general rocky, though, in some parts, 
especially near the town of Thurso, it is flat and sandy. The bay 
of Thurso, which forms the coast of the parish of Olrig and part 
of that of Dunnet, forms about five miles of the coast of this pa- 
rish ; and, as seen from the town and neighbourhood, presents a 
very beautiful and striking appearance. It is included within the 
promontories of Dunnet-head, (the most northerly land in Scot- 
land), situated in the parish of Dunnet on the east, and of Hoi- 
burn-head, situated in this parish, on the west Holburn-head, the 
only head-land in this parish, is about two miles to the north-west 
of the town of Thurso. At the extremity of this headland, there 

* Compiled by the Rev. W. R. Taylor, Minister, assisted by Hugh Davidson, 
Esq. Chief Magistrate of Thurso, who furnished the chief part of Head IV. 

CAITHNESS. A 



2 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

is a remarkable insulated rock, called the Clett, about 480 feet 
long, 240 feet broad, and 400 feet high, and 'distant from the land 
about 240 feet. This rock is considered a great curiosity, and is 
frequently visited by strangers. In the sunnnner months, it is co- 
vered with flocks of sea-fowl ; and this adds considerably to its 
striking and interesting appearance. 

Climate. — It is stated in Henderson's View of the Agriculture 
of Caithness, that for three-fourths of the year, viz. from Septem- 
ber to June, the wind generally blows from the west and north- 
west ; and that, during the other fourth of the year, it is variable 
from south-west to south-east, and is but seldom northerly. The 
climate is healthy, though variable. During a great part of the 
year, the air is keen and piercing ; but in summer there is a good 
deal of inild and warm weather. 

Hydrography. — There are two small rivers in the parish. The 
principal river in the parish and in the county, is the river Thurso, 
from which the parish takes its name. It rises in the heights of 
the parish of Halkirk, an^ong the hills bounding Sutherland, and 
after reaching this parish traverses it from south to north, and 
flows into the sea in the immediate vicinity of the town. Its length 
is about thirty miles, and its greatest breadth about 100 yards. 
It adds much to the beauty of those parts of the parish through 
which it flows, at least, as much as can consist with unwooded banks. 
The other stream in the parish, and the fourth in size in the 
county, is the Water of Forss. It rises in the parish of Reay, and 
after reaching this parish divides it from that of Reay, forming the 
boundary between them, and flows into the sea at Cross-kirk Bay, 
near the House of Forss. 

Geology. — The principal rocks in the parish belong to the so- 
called old red sandstone. The general direction of the strata is 
from north-east to south-west. The dip on the shore of Thurso 
is north-west, and the inclination about twenty degrees. In some 
of the quarries inland, the dip is south-east. 

The soil consists chiefly of clay and loam, resting on sandstone 
flag and slate-clay rock. 

Zoology. — The chief kinds of fish in the bay of Thurso are, had- 
dock, cod, herring, and salmon. The herring appear in May, and 
continue until August. The salmon would go up the rivers to 
spawn in August, but are prevented till the 14th of September, 
until which time the rivers are shut. It is considered injurious 



THURSO. .3 

that the rivers are not open sooner, as the number of spawning 
fish is thus reduced. The spawning fish return to the sea about 
the month of April. The principal Crustacea found in the bay of 
Thurso are lobsters, 

II. — Civil History. 

Sir John Sinclair mentions that there is an account of this pa- 
rish in Macfarlane's Geographical Collection, preserved in the 
Advocates' Library ; but it is presumed that the account drawn 
up by Sir John himself, and contained in his Statistical Account 
of Scotland, is the fullest that has ever been written. 

With regard to the ancient history of Thurso, Sir John ob- 
serves that the town appears to have been a place of very consi- 
derable trade and consequence, many centuries ago ; and, in proof 
of this, states, that, according to Skene's account of the assize of 
David, King of Scotland, the weight of Caithness was ordered to 
be observed in buying and selling over all Scotland ; which could 
not, he thinks, have been the case, had not Caithness been dis- 
tinguished for the extent of its commercial transactions, of which 
Thurso was probably the centre. It was not, however, till the 
year 1633, that Thurso was erected into a free burgh of barony. 
The only other events connected with its history, which Sir John 
considers worthy of being recorded, are the two following: In the 
reign of Charles the First, it was visited by the Earl of Montrose ; 
and in the spring of 1 746, a band of rebels, under Lord M'Leod, 
marched into the county, but returned without doing more than 
obliging the landholders to pay them part of the land-tax, and 
were, on their return, attacked and worsted near Dunrobin Castle. 
There is a small map of the parish prefixed to Sir John Sinclair's 
Account. 

Eminent Characters. — Of the eminent characters connected 
with the parish by birth or residence, the name of Sir John Sin- 
clair of Ulbster, author of the former Statistical Account, whose 
patriotic and indefatigable labours for the welfare and improve- 
ment of his country, and of his native county in particular, are so 
well known, claims special notice. Nor would it be right to omit 
the names of his three daughters; — Miss Hannah Sinclair, the 
writer of a short but very admirable letter on the Principles of the 
Christian Faith ; Lady Colquhoun, who has written two or three 
pious works of a plain and practical, but very attractive character; 
and Miss Catherine Sinclair, who has already given to the world 



4 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

several volumes of tales and travels, and has distinguished herself 
as a very elegant and lively, as well as instructive writer. Sir 
John, in his account of eminent characters, states, that the Os- 
walds of Glasgow, who were eminent merchants there, were ori- 
ginally from Thurso; and that Richard Oswald, merchant in 
London, and one of the plenipotentiaries from Great Britain in 
settling the peace in 1783, was an unsuccessful candidate, upon 
a comparative trial, for the office of schoolmaster of Thurso. He 
makes mention also of a Mr Mcintosh, son of a schoolmaster in 
Thurso, who became an eminent portrait painter in Moscow ; and 
of two young ladies of the name of Liddell, natives of Thurso, 
who had removed to Edinburgh, who showed a great turn for mu- 
sic and painting, and attained to considerable eminence in the 
latter art 

Chief Land'oumers. — The chief land-owners in the parish, be- 
sides the Crown, which possesses the lands of Scrabster, are. Sir 
George Sinclair of Ulbster, the present excellent and accom- 
plished Member for the county ; James Sinclair, Esq. of Forss, 
who is constantly resident, and who deserves much commendation 
for his anxiety to provide the young on his estates with the means 
of a proper education ; Sir John Gordon Sinclair of Murkle, and 
Sir Patrick Murray Thriepland of Fingask. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, including the 
Session records, extend to seven volumes, of about 600 folio pages 
each. The first entry is in 1648^ 

Antiquities, — About half a mile to the west of Tliurso, in the 
centre of the crescent-formed bank which skirts the bay, stand the 
ruins of an old castle, beautifully situated on the sea, once the 
residence of the bishops of Caithness. Scarcely any of the build- 
ing remains, but it appears to have been a place of considerable 
size and strength. About two miles to the east of the town, is 
the burial place of Earl Harold, the possessor at one time of the 
half of Orkney, and Zetland, and of the half of Caithness, who 
was slain in battle in the year 1 190, while endeavouring to recover 
his property from the hands of a tyrant, the wicked Earl Harold. 
Over his grave the late Sir John Sinclair, on the suggestion of 
Mr Alexander Pope, minister of Reay, one of the greatest anti- 
quaries in the north, erected an edifice, called Harold's Tower, 
which, as seen from a distance, possesses somewhat of a striking 
appearance. 



THURSO. 5 

Modem Buildinffs.^^The principal modern building in the pa- 
rish is the parish church, which is a very handsome structure, and 
a great ornament to the town. It cost about L. 6000. 

IIL — Population. 
The population of the parish, as given in the account of the 

parish already referred to, as preserved in the Advocates' Library, 
was 2200, 900 in the town of Thurso, and 1300 in the rest of the 
parish. The date of this account is not known. In 1755, the po- 
pulation was 2963; and at the date of Sir John Sinclair's Account 
in 1798, it was 3146. In 1831, the population was 4679, of which 
2124 were males, and 2555 females. The number of the popu- 
lation residing in the town of Thurso in 1831 was 2429, and in 
the country, 2250. The yearly average of births for the last 
seven years was about 140, and of marriages about 16. The num- 
ber of persons under 15 years of age is about 1600. 

There are very few individuals or families of independent for<- 
tune residing in the parish. There are no proprietors of land of 
the yearly value of L. 50 or upwards, except those already men- 
tioned as the chief land-owners in the parish. Thej are five in 
number. The number of families in the parish in 1831 was 1036, 
696 in the town, and 440 in the country. The average number 
of children in each family is two, or rather less. The number of 
inhabited houses was in 1831, 739; 367 in the town, and 372 in 
the country. There were 17 houses uninhabited or building in 
1831. 

There are 2 insane persons, 4 fatuous, 2 blind, and 2 deaf and 

dumb. 

The language generally spoken is the English. The Gaelic 
IS spoken by a few, but it is yearly losing ground. 

The ordinary food of the labouring classes consists of meal in 
its various preparations of bread, pottage, brose, and gruel ; milk, 
potatoes, and herring. 

Character of the People. — The general character of the people, 
intellectual, moral, and religious, no doubt requires great improve- 
ment ; yet, as compared with that in other parts of Scotland, it is 
rather above than below mediocrity. The bulk of the people are 
quiet and orderly, and manifest considerable regard for religion 
and religious services. 

Neither poaching nor smuggling prevails to any great extent. 

The number of males employed in agriculture is . . 386 

employed in manufactures and in retail trade and bandicrafl, 402 



6 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

The number of professional persons and other educated men, . • ^^ 

of labourers not agricuUaraly . • 218 

of other males, • • * . ^' 

of male servants, of whom only three are above 20 years of age, is 13 
of female servants, ..... 254 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — 

The number of acres, standard imperial measure, which are either cultivat- 

ed or occasionally in tillage, is about . 12,000 

The number of acres which have never been cultivated, 10,000 

The number that might, with a profitable application of capital, be added to 
the cultivated land of the parish, . . . 7000 

There is no undivided common. . The number of acres under 
wood is 40. The trees planted are, plane, fir,, ash, elm, oak, and 
mountain-ash : the management of which is on the whole tolera- 
bly good. 

Rent. — The average rent of arable land in the parish is L. 1 
per acre. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 2 per 
ox or cow grazed, and 6s. 6d. per ewe or full-grown sheep pas- 
tured for the year. 

Wages. — The rate of labour for farm-labourers is Is. 6d. per 
day, and for country artisans from 2s. to 3s. The rate of mason- 
work is L. 2 per rood. 

Live-Stock. — The common breed of sheep are the Leicester 
and Cheviot, and of cattle the Highland and Teeswater ; to the 
improvement of both of which much attention has been paid. 

Husbandry. — The most approved system of husbandry pursued 
is that called the five crop shift, being a rotation of turnips, bear, 
bay, pasture, and oats. Great improvements are taking place in 
the reclaiming of waste lands, and in draining, which is practised 
to a considerable extent on the most improved farms, and is yearly 
extending to others. 

Leases. — Leases generally extend from seven to nineteen years 
in the larger description of farms. The smaller farms are in ge- 
neral occupied without leases to the great injury of the land, and 
also of the tenant. 

Farm-buildings are improving rapidly, and are in general in a 
comfortable state. Tnclosures are increasing, but not in the same 
ratio. 

The principal improvements which have recently been made in 
the parish consist in the dividing, draining, and enclosing of com- 
mons, and in the building of comfortable cottages for the settlers 
on their respective^ lands. 
The great want of capital may be stated as the principal obsta- 



THURSO. t 

cte to improvement. To this are to be added the low price of 
farm produce, and the want of leases. 

Quarries, — There are in this parish sev.eral slate, freestone, and 
whinstone quarries. The slate quarries have been for some vears 
extensively worked, and the flags which they furnish have been 
exported to London, Newcastle, and Glasgow, and other cities, 
and towns in England and Scotland, where they have been used 
for pavement. About 250 men are employed in dressing these 
flags. 

Fisheries. — The principal fisheries carried on in the parish are, 
the herring, salmon, haddock, cod, and lobster. The salmon fish- 
ings rent at L. 1000, the others are free. 

Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in 
the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — 

Produce of grain of all kinds, . . L. 28000 

potatoes, turnipsi &c. . • . 6000 

hay, . . 4000 

land in pasture at L. 1, 10s. per cow or ox, and 58. per ewe, . 5000 

gardens and orchards, . 200 

thinnings of woods, • . . . 5 

fisheries, . . . . 5000 

quarries, . . . . 2000 

miscellaneous proJuce, . . . 2000 

Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 52,205 

Manufactures. — The manufacture of straw-plait employs about 
58 females; the manufacture of leather 15 men, and a rope-work 
12. Linen and woollen manufactures, and the manufacture of her* 
ring nets, occupy about 200 persons. 

Navigation. — There are 14 ships or vessels belonging to the 

port. The number trading to the port, but not belonging to it, 

is about 40. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Town. — The town of Thurso is the only market-town 

in the parish. It is pleasantly situated on the sea at the mouth 
of the river which bears its name. It commands a very noble and 
extensive sea-view, comprising, first, the beautiful bay of Thurso, 
included within the two commanding headlands of Dunnet and 
Holburn ; next, the more exposed and stormy waters of the Pent* 
land Frith ; and beyond, the islands of Orkney with their lofty 
and rocky sides, terminating westward in the majestic promontory 
of Hoy. 

Thurso lays claim to considerable antiquity. As already stated, 
it was a place of some consequence several centuries ago. The 



8 CAITHNBSS-SHIRE. 

old church, which was ODly quitted as a place of worship in ISSS, 
and which contained 900 sitters, was said to be upwards of 500 
years old. 

The town is made up of an old and a new town united together. 
The new town is built according to a regular plan ; and though 
this cannot be said of the old town, yet it contains a few regular 
streets, and some good and substantial houses. The new town is 
yearly increasing in size. 

The present population of the town is, as has been stated al- 
ready, upwards of 2400« It has three magistrates, nominated by 
the superior of the burgh, Sir George Sinclair. 

Means of Commtmicatian, — The ordinary means of communica- 
tion are enjoyed by the parish. There are good roads and a daily 
mail coach to and from the south. Three times a week there is 
a coach between Thurso and Tongue. There are two sailing 
vessels from Thurso to Leith, and, except during the winter 
months, there is weekly a steam-boat from Wick to Leith. To 
Wick, which is twenty-one miles from Thurso, the mail-coach 
travels daily, performing the journey in two hours and a half. 

Thurso is a post-town, and has a daily dispatch and arrival to 
and from the south. It is itself the most northern post-town in 
Great Britain. There is a post three times a week to and from 
Tongue and the places intervening, on the west, and a daily post 
to and from Castleton and Dunnet on the east 

The turnpike road along the coast of the parish from east to west is 
eight miles and a half long, of which three miles are to the east of 
the town, and five mile&and a half to the west Besides this road, 
there is the mail<road to the south, which traverses about six miles 
of this parish. There is also another road to the west of the mail- 
road, and almost parallel to it, on the west side of the river, lead- 
ing from Thurso to the village of Halkirk. There are only four 
miles of this road in this parish. From this road, another road 
branches off to the west, about two miles from Thurso, and joins 
the coast-road at Reay. Of this branch, ther^ are about two 
miles and a half in this parish, besides the two miles from Thurso 
to the point at which it branches off. 

The only public carriage which travels through the parish is the 
mail to and from the south, and to and from the west, as already 
stated. 

There are several bridges in the parisb> and all in good condi- 



THURSO. 9 

tion. The principal is that over the river Thurso, at the entrance 
to the town from the south and east This bridge is a very large 
and substantial and ornamental one. It was not in existence at 
the time of Sir John Sinclair's Account, in which much is said of 
the great inconvenience felt by the want of a bridge. It is diffi-^ 
cult to imagine now, how this want could have been so long borne. 
There are not many fences in the parish ; but where they are to 
be found, they are generally in good condition. 

There is a harbour at Thurso at the mouth of the river, where 
vessels of twelve feet draught land and lie in safety. Scrabster Roads, 
within the bay of I'hurso, distant about a mile from the town, 
affords good and safe anchorage for vessels of any size ; and it is 
at present in contemplation to erect a pier there. 

Ecckriastical iS/a/e.— The parish church has been already spoken 
of as a very handsome structure. It is situated in the town of 
Thurso, which, considering the number of people in the town, is 
manifestly the most convenient place for its erection. It is dis- 
tant three miles from the eastern extremity of the parish, and six 
from the southern and western extremities. On the north it is 
within a quarter of a mile from the sea. It was built in 1632, and 
opened for public worship in January 1833, and is, as might be 
expected, in a good state of repair. It affords accommodation for 
1540 persons. There are but 32 free-sittings set apart for the 
use of the poor. 

The manse was built about the year 1770, and was repaired in 
1831. 

The giebe consists of about 7 or 8 acres, and may be of the 
yearly value of L.15. 

The stipend is 18 chalders standard imperial measure, half meal,, 
half barley. There being no barley fiars struck in the county, 
the barley is paid according to the fiars' price of bear. LilO are 
allowed for communion elements. 

There is no place of worship in the parish attached to the Esta-^ 
blishment, except the parish church. 

There is no missionary in the parish. There is a catechist sup- 
ported by the people, with the aid of a small salary from the So- 
ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The office has been 
for some time vacant, but a new appointment is about being 
made. 

There is a meeting-house in the town belonging to a congrega* 



10 CAITHNESS-SUIRE. 

lion of Original Seceders. There is also an Independent chai)el. 

A small Baptist congregation assembles in a room in a private 

house. The ministers of these places of worship are paid by their 

hearers. 

' There is no Episcopalian or Roman Catholic chapel in the 

parish. 

The number of families attending the Establislied Church may 
be about 800, and the number of individuals about 2400. 

The number of families attending the other places of worship 
may be about 200, and the number of individuals about 600. 
Some of these are from other parishes. 

The average attendance in ordinary weather at the parish 
church is from 1400 to 1500; and at the Dissenting places of 
worship 500. 

The number of communicants connected with the Established 
Church is about 300. 

There is a Bible Society in Thurso, supported by Christians of 
all denominations, which collects about L. 30 annually. There is 
a Parochial Association for support of the Assembly's schemes, 
whose funds, except for Church Extension, are derived wholly 
from collections at the church door. The sum collected may also 
average about L. 30 per annum. This is independent of an an* 
nual sum of L. 38, subscribed for church extension for five years, 
and which has already been paid for one year. 

There is a Society in the parish for the relief of the destitute 
sick, supported by Christians of all denominations, whose receipts 
may average L.15 annually. 

The average amount of collections at the parish church for re- 
ligious and charitable objects, including the L. 30 already specified, 
and including also the ordinary collections for the poor, is about 
L.120. Of this sum the ordinary collections for the poor make 
up L. 80. 

Education. — The number of schools in the parish is about 16, 
viz. 1 parochial, 12 unendowed, 2 supported by societies, and 1 
by subscription. Besides these, an Assembly school is about being 
opened. 

In many of these schools only English reading is taught. In 
others, are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic, and in female 
schools, sewing ; and in a few, the usual higher branches. 

The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is the maximum. The 



THURSO. 11 

salaries of the Society teachers are L.15 and L.12. The promised 
salary of the Assembly teacher to be appointed is L. 20. With 
the exception of the parish school and two or three others, the 
amount of fees is very small. The parochial teacher possesses 
the legal accommodations. 

The general expense of education for the year in the parish 
school, is lOs. for beginners, increasing to L.1, 10s. orL.2forthe 
more advanced. In inferior. schools, the expense for beginners is 
about 6s. a-year, and 10s. for the more advanced. In female 
schools, in which the higher branches are taught, the expense is 
considerably greater than in the parish school. 

About 200 children between six and fifteen years of age cannot 
read ; about 600 cannot write. The whole number of children 
between six and fifteen is about 950. The number of persons 
above fifteen who cannot read is about 120. 

The people in general are alive to the benefits of education, 
and are anxious to have their children educated. 

After the Assembly school is opened, there will be no part of 
the parish so distant from school as to prevent attendance, nor 
will there be any additional schools required ; but some of the 
schools in existence are in a very precarious state from the want 
of any endowment 

Literature, — There are two circulating libraries in the parish, 
and two reading-rooms. 

Charitable and other Institutions. — There is no almshouse, hos- 
pital, dispensary, or asylum. There are 5 Friendly Societies, the 
oldest of which has existed about forty years, and the latest about 
twenty. Their design and tendency are manifestly good, but they 
are not by any means in a flourishing state. There is no Sa- 
vings Bank. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is 160. The average sum allotted to each 
is 5s. The annual amount contributed for their relief is about 
L.112, of which there is collected at the church door L.80; L.25 
is voluntarily subscribed by the heritors for the support of two lu- 
natics ; and L. 6, 18s. is the interest of two sums left as legacies. 
With a few exceptions the poor do not consider it degrading to 
apply for parochial relief. 

Prisons. — The county jail is in Wick. There is merely a 
lock-up-house in Thurso, where criminals are confined till they 
be sent to Wick. Within the last year there were five persons 



12 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

confined here, three for rioting, and two for theft. The longest 
period any of them was confined here was ten days. 

Fairs. — There are three fairs held in the parish, the Peters- 
mas, in the end of June ; the Oeorgemas, in July ; and the Mary- 
mas, in the beginning of September. They are intended chiefly 
for the sale of cattle and sheep. 

Irrns and Alehouses* — There are 2 or 3 inns and about 30 ale- 
houses in the parish. These last cannot but have an injurious ef- 
fect ; but it is hoped both their number and their influence are 
decreasing. 

Fuel. — A good deal of English coal is used in the town of 
Thurso ; but many of the town's people, and all the people in the 
country, with a few exceptions, consume nothing but peats. 
These are to be found in abundance in the parish ; and the tenants 
have a right to take of them at no other cost but that of the time 
and labour, (which, however, are considerable,) required for cast- 
ing them and carrying them home. 

October 1840, 



PARISH OF REAY. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. FINLAY COOK, MINISTER. * 






I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Situation, Boundaries, <$-c. — The parish is situated between 
58% 36' and 59^ north latitude, and between 2% 59' and 3' 
80' west longitude. The greater part of it lies in the county of 
Caithness. A part, however, denominated Strathalladale, is in the 
county of Sutherland. Its length is Id miles, and its breadth 
9 miles. It is bounded on the east and south-east, by the pa- 
rishes of Thurso and Halkirk, in Caithness ; and on the west and 
south-west, by the parishes of Farr and Kildonan in Sutherland. 

Name. — There are various conjectures respecting the etymoloi- 
gy of its name. It is supposed to be a corruption of Mein-Reidh, 

* Drawn up by Mr W. G. Forbes, Parochial Schoolmaster of Reay. 



REAY. 13 

or Miora — two Gaelic terms signifying smooth and plain, that 
part of the parish particularly named Reay, being smooth and 
plain, in comparison of the other parts which are in general rug- 
ged and hilly. But the most probable derivation is, that R^y 
is a corruption from Urray, the name of a Pictish hero, who 
inhabited the castle, to this day called Knock«- Urray. The an- 
cient orthography of the parish was Re, or Rae, but the modern 
is Reay. It would appear from the fragment of an old poem, for- 
merly among the northern Highlanders, which was sung in 
honour of Dornadilla, that Reay was a place of some nolo* The 
lines are : — 

« Dun Dornigil MooDuff, 

A in n*taodb re Miora do n*trath.'* 

Eng. — ^^ The dun or castle of Dornadilla, the son of Duff, built on 
the side of the strath next to Reay." But that Reay was anciently 
a place of consequence appears from a discovery made in 1751. 
A water^spout which fell in that year five miles above Reay, oc- 
casioned so great a torrent as to cut out a new channel through 
the sand between Reay and the shore 16 feet deep> which disco* 
vered the remains of a town. The ends of seven houses, built with 
stone, were seen in a line, and the remains of several others, with 
some pieces of pavement. The stones being of good quality were 
carried off, and the banks soon falling prevented any farther search. 
Pieces of earthenware were found among the ruins. Tradition 
says that Reay was a burgh of regality. A market cross stood 
there formerly ; but it has now been removed to New Reay. 

Topographical Appearances. — Its figure, particularly on the 
south and south-east, is very irregular. There are no mountain 
ranges. The only considerable mountains are, part of Ben Greim, 
Ben-na-Bad, Ben Shurery, Ben Radh, and Ben Ruaidh. There 
are, besides, several hills of considerable height, Knock-na-Barei- 
bhich, Knock-Sleitiil, and Muillanan Liadh, &c. Strathalladale, 
lying in the county of Sutherland, presents the appearance of a 
valley from top to bottom, extending in length eighteen miles. 
The only flat and low lands lie along the coast. 

The shore at Borrowston presents a number of small caves; one 
in particular, into which, when a stone is cast, it emits a hpllow echo- 
ing sound, resembling that of Gling Glang, which is the name given 
it by the inhabitants. On the same shore, there is also a strong na- 
tural arch, covered with green turf, on a level with the adjacent 
ground, and leading over a chasm about forty feet deep, into which 



14 CAITHNESSSHIttE. 

the tide flows. In Ben Radh there is a cavern said to have been 
formerly the resort of a gang of robbers, the entrance of which is 
formed by two natural stone pillars inclining towards each other. 
There are several other caves of various forms and sizes to the 
west of Fresgo-Head. 

The extent of the sea shore is about nine miles, a considerable 
part of which is clayey, incumbent on a horizontal rock, and its 
aspect is bold and rocky. 

The principal bays are those of Sandside and Bighouse, the 
former of which is about a mile in breadth, surrounded by beauti- 
ful sandy links, to the extent of about a mile. These links pro- 
duce excellent pasture, and in them are found great quantities of 
various kinds of sea-shells. The principal headland is Fresgo- 
Head at Sandside. 

Climate, — The atmosphere is dry and healthy. Thunder and 
lightning, followed by heavy falls of rain, generally occur in the 
months of June and July. When flashes of lightning are seen 
<luring the winter months, they prognosticate severe gales of wind 
from the north-west, accompanied by rain or snow. The country 
people remark, that when on a clear night they observe the de- 
scent of a meteor called by them a falling star, it indicates an ap- 
proaching storm. The Polar Lights are seen frequently during 
autumn and winter, and sometimes at other periods of the year. 
When seen low in the horizon they are said to prognosticate fair 
weather, and when extended across our zenith, foul and stormy 
weather. The prevailing winds are from the north and north- 
west ; and in the winter and spring seasons, there are frequent hard 
gales from those quarters, and as there are no woods nor high lands 
on the north side of the parish, the inclemency of the weather is 
greatly felt. From the beginning of May to the middle of June, 
the prevailing wind is generally from the north-west, with a bleak 
cloudy sky, which depresses vegetation very much, and is said to 
nourish that pernicious insect called the grub caterpillar. 

The most prevalent distempers of the district are, fevers, con- 
sumptions, and rheumatisms. The mortality occasioned by the 
small-pox, measles, and chincough has for some years past much 
abated. Fgvers frequently cause a considerable mortality. 

Hydrography. — Many parts of the parish abound with perennial 
springs of excellent water. A few years ago, a mineral spring was 
discovered near a place called Helshetter, the water of which is 
thought to be not much inferior to that of the Strathpefler wells. 



REAV. 15 

There is another mineral spring issuing at the foot of a rock at 
Craigtown in Dunreay, on the sea shore, of superior quality. The 
mineral springs in general are seemingly chalybeate. In Brawlbin 
there are perennial springs, remarkable for the purity and light- 
ness of their waters, which are rather of a whitish colour. But as 
these waters are seldom applied to the cure of diseases, they do 
not engage the attention of the public. 

Of the lakes, which are numerous but small, the principal are, 
Loch Shurery, Loch Cailm, Locb Scye, Loch Sleitill, — the last 
of which in particular abounds with superior red trout, some of 
which measure from two to three feet long. The scenery is 
varied, and in general not uninteresting. The Halladale river 
takes its rise near Knock-na-Ba-Reibhich, in the boundary between 
the parishes of Kildonan and Reay, and in its course runs in a di- 
rection almost due north, through a strath of the same name, un- ' 
til it discharges itself into the bay of Bighouse. Its length is up- 
wards of twenty miles and average breadth twenty yards. Again, 
the Forss river, which oritrinates from a small lake south of Ben-na- 
Bad passes near Loch Cailm, and through Loch Shurery, and af- 
ter various windings falls into the bay of Crosskirk, dividing this 
parish on the east from the parish of Thurso. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — Mountain Rock Formations, — There 
are numerous interesting displays of the sandstones and sandstone, 
slates so prevalent in the county ; and of the primitive formations 
there are granite, syenite, hornblende rocks, gneiss and quartz rock. 

Limestones and Ores. — In 1802, there was discovered upon 
the estate of Sandside, the property of William Innes, Esq. a little 
to the west of his house, a bed of limestone, apparently ten feet 
thick ; the bed dips to the north. A little to the west of 
that, another limestone bed occurs, four feet thick, of which the 
dip is north-west; and still farther west, red granite comes boldly 
down to the sea, interspersed with several veins of granite, and 
large veins of felspar. On the east side of this ridge of granite 
Occur the strata, which are general on the coast, of a bluish slate. 
Near Lake-na-Clachan Geal, was found oxyde of manganese of 
considerable purity, imbedded in decomposed red granite. There 
has been opened at a place named Ary-Leive, the property of the 
same gentleman, a fine limestone quarry, in which the strata dip 
north-east It is at present wrought on a large scale, and the lime 
is much used in the cultivation of new lands. Large quarries of 



IG CAITHNESS'SHIRE. 

fVeestone are found in difierent parts of the parish. And shell 
marl is dug up in large quantities in Dunreay and Brawlbin, which 
is of no small advantage to the adjoining lands* 
'^\ In the Caithness division of the parish, the soil is fertile. To- 
wards the sea coast, about Borrowston and Dunreay, the soil is 
clayey, incumbent on a gray freestone and bluish slate, and very 
tenacious of moisture, but sandy about Reay and Sandside. 

In the Sutherland division, the soil is composed of dark earth 
mixed with crystally sand, and yields good crops when proper- 
Iv cultivated. * 

Zoology. — Of the animals found in the parish, the rarer are, deer, 
roebucks, badgers, foxes, otters, goats, and polecats. The birds 
are, eagles, cormorants, marrots, kingBshers, herpns, swans, wood- 
cocks, blackcocks, moorfowl, &c« 

Formerly in the spring season, large flocks of a small bird of the 
sparrow kind used to appear ; but for some years past, they have 
not been seen. The rivers abound with salmon, grilse, trout, and 
eels, as also flounders. Lobsters are plentiful on the coast. 

Drees. — There are neither forests nor plantations in the pa- 
rish, except a few natural birches in Strathalladale. The soil 
seems to be nowise congenial to their growth. A green hill to the 
east of the manse, named Koltag, produces different plants adapt- 
ed for medicinal purposes. 

II. — Civil History. 

Tradition relates that, at the time when the Danes overran 
these northern parts, a son of a Danish prince, named Alluva, 
was slain, ana interred at a place in Strathalladale, called after 
his name Dalalluva, and that another Danish prince, named Far- 
quhar, was interred at Brubster, in a place to this day denominated 
Clashna Farquhar. 

Eminent Men. — Under this head falls to be noticed the late 
Rev. David Mackay, who was minister of the parish upwards of 
half a century. In early life, he felt the power of divine truth on 
his soul, and as he advanced in years, he progressively realized the 
sweet influence of the Grospel, imparting light, purity, and peace 
to the heart, and sanctity and consistency to the life. Amid the 
varied trials iie was called to bear during a life of eighty-four, and 
a ministry of more than fifty-one years, the word of God was his 
support. He cultivated with assiduity an acquaintance with those 
literary and scientific subjects that tend to render the minister of the 



RBAY. 17 

Gospel, an intelligent, judicious, and instructive interpreter of the 
, word of God ; and from his pen appeared some interesting papers, 
distinguished by perspicuity, accuracy of reasoning, and orthodoxy 
of sentiment. Perhaps the most remarkable feature in his characte 
was the interest he took in. young men of talent, and the unweari- 
ed efforts he made to bring them forward from humble life, to 
stations of usefulness and respectability. His purse, his pen, and 
his whole energies were put forth, in order to foster rising merit, 
and patronize pious and gifted youth. And there are now those 
adorning important stations in the church, and in our highest aca- 
demical institutions, who fondly and gratefully cherish the re- 
membrance of a time when he, under God, was their only patron, 
and his recommendation their chief passport to the situations of 
importance which they now hold. 

Land'oumers. — Sir John Gordon Sinclair of Murkle, Bart.; the 
Duke of Sutherland ; Major Innes of Sandside ; James Sinclair of 
Forss ; Captain Macdonald of Shebster, are the chief land-owners. 

Parochial Registers. — The earliest entry in the parochial regis- 
ters is dated 1745 : but the registers were not regularly kept until 
the year 1783. 

Antiquities, — At Lybster, in the eastern part of the parish, stand 
the ruins of a Roman Catholic chapel, near which is a spring of 
water, thought to be the sacred fount ; and also in Shebster lie the 
ruins of another chapel of the same description ; close to which is 
a tomb, wherein lies a coffin, formed of four blocks of stone from 
6 to 7 feet long, and 2^ feet broad. Along the Halladale 
strath are the remains of several circular towers, about 60 or 70 
feet in diameter. The walls are thick, and artfully built of large 
stones, without mortar. They do not seem to have been intended 
for dwelling places, nor is it easy to determine to what purposes 
they were appropriated, unless it was for beacons, or watch-towers, 
— which is most probable, as they stand in sight of each other. 
On the top of Benfrectan, in Shurery, is an ancient fort, nearly a 
mile in circumference, the walls of which are upwards of twelve feet 
thick at bottomu* 

* Benfrectan, or the hill of the watch, is steep and rocky on three sides, and is con- 
nected with another hill by a narrow rock. In one of the steep sides of the rock 
there is a cave, narrow at the mouth, but capacious within. Shekes of rocks upon 
each side have the appearance of side benches. The length of the cave is about 
25 feet, breadth 9 or 10 feet, and it has a small aperture on the top. It was the 
asylum of two disaffected families for some time in 1745. 

llic hill of Shebster has the remains of two forts of the same kind, at some dis- 
tance from each other. Tradition says, there had been a subterraneous paf sage be- 
tween these two buildings, and this is rendered probable by the appearance of the 
ground. 

CAITHNESS. B 



18 CAITHNESS-SHIUE. 

Ill, — Population. 

The amount of the population by census 1801 was 2406 

1811, 2317 
1821 2758 

183l! 2881— males, d26; females 1555 
The population of the vilUige of New Reay, is 188— males, 80 ; females 106 

The annual average of births for the-last seven years is - ^ 

of deaths, as nearly as can be ascertained, is 40 
of marriages, • .20 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age is 187 

ftt>m 15 to dO, 807 

dO to 50, . 665 

50 to 70, 324 

upwards of 70, 96 

The number of femih'es and individuals of independent fortune residing in Um 

parish, is • . • . . 6 

of bachelors, . .12 

of widowers, upwards of 50 -years of age, . 20 

of unmarried women, upwards of 45 years of age, • 100 

Number of insane in the parish, 2 ; blind, 9 ; deaf, 6 ; dumb, 10, 

Language^ ^c. — The Gaelic language is still spoken, but has 
greatly lost ground within these last twenty years. The inhabit- 
ants are in general industrious, temperate, economical, and very 
hospitable. Some years ago, the best dress of the women was a blue 
duffle cloak : now they appear on Sabbath days in silk and muslin 
gowns, shawls, and straw bonnets. The farmers' wives do not now 
make those coarse low-priced cloths for the market, which they 
made formerly, owing to their having no sheep, and the price of 
wool being high. The ordinary food of the peasantry is oat- 
cakes, potatoes, fish, milk, and, on particular occasions, they have 
mutton, beef, &c. They are in general intelligent, moral, and re- 
ligious. The distress at present existing in the parish, however, 
is great in the extreme. The most of the parish has been con- 
verted into sheep-farms, and consequently, the poor people have 
been ejected from their houses and lands, many of them reduced 
to indigence and misery, and others necessitated to emigrate to a 
foreign land. Formerly, smuggling or illicit distillation prevailed 
very much, — which was attended with very pernicious consequences 
in regard to health and morals. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — By ancient calculation, the parish contains 
271 pennylands of arable ground, at eight acres to each 
pennyland. The pasture ground unfit for cultivation is very 
extensive ; but its precise extent has not been ascertained. 

The average rent of arable ground per acre is L.1 ; ofgrazincr, 
L. 1, Is. per annum ; for an ox per month, 4s. 6d. ; for a cow 
from L. 1, is. to L.1, 4s. per annum ; for a ewe, t3s. per annum. 

4 



RBAT. 19 

« 

fViyes* — Blaid^servants' wages in the half year, from L. 1, 5s. 
to L.1, lOs^ and men-servants', from L.3 to L.4, 10s. per half 
year. The prices of provisions are as follow : Beef, 4^. to 
5d. per lb. ; mutton, 4d. per do. ; pork, Sd. ; butter, 8d. to lOd. 
cheese, Sd. to 4d. ; tallow, 5d. to 6d. per lb. ; average price of 
beans per boll, L. 1 ; oatmeal, 16s. ; geese, from 2s. 6d. to Ss. 
each ; hens, 8d. to lOd. ; eggs, 8d. per dozen ; salmon, 6d. per lb. ; 
haddocks, from 6d. to 8d. per dozen. 

Day labourers in husbandry receive from Is. to Is. 8d. per day 
without victuals ; carpenters and masons from 2s. 6d. to 3s. per 
day. 

Live*Stoch. — The Cheviot breed of sheep are the most com- 
mon since the introduction of sheep-farming. Our small native 
breed of sheep is fast decreasing. Our breed of cattle is the black 
Highland. Prior to the introduction of sheep-farming, improve- 
ments in agriculture were daily increasing, and still a considerable 
extent of new land is cultivated from the moor or hill, by Major 
Jones of Sandside and Captain Macdonald of Shebster. A great 
part of Major Innes and Captain Macdonald's lands are enclos- 
ed. The roads have been greatly improved, and bridges built 
where they were necessary. But the greatest improvement is at 
Halladale, belonging to the Duke of Sutherland. A new channel, 
at a vast expense, has been dug for the water, and a high and 
strong embankment raised to confine the river from flooding an ex- 
tensive meadow of very excellent pasture, thought to be worth up- 
wards of L. 200 per annum. 

Leases. — The general duration of leases is seven, fourteen, nine- 
teen, and twenty- one years ; but leases are in fact seldom granted, 
which is a principal obstacle to agricultural improvements, as the 
tenant^ who may be removed at the will of the proprietor, cannot 
depend on reaping the benefit of his labour ; he is, therefore, loth 
to incur expenses in improving his farm. 

Quarries. — Quarries of freestone have been opened in different 
parts of the parish, one in particular at Glen-Craggach, from 40 
to 50 feet deep, from which large blocks of stone for millstones 
are extracted. 

Fisheries. — For several years past we have had a herring- fishery 
established here, at Portskerray, Sandside bay, and Lybster ; as 
also salmon-fishing at the same ports. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

The nearest mMI*ket-town is Thurso, which is eleven miles dis- 



20 CAITHNESS'BHIRE. 

tant. The only village is NIbw Reay. A maiWoach runs be- 
tween Thurso and Tongue, and passes here every alternate day ; 
and there is a post-office at Reay and at Melvich, 

A very neat and commodious harbour has lately been built in 
the bay of Sandside by Major Innes, on which upwards of L. dCMM) 
hUve already been expended. While it encourages and promotes 
trade and commerce, it is also of great advantage to the herring- 
fishing. 

Etcltsiastical State. — The parish church was built in 1739, is at 
present in good repair, and conveniently situated for the greater pari 
of the population. It affords accommodation for 650 sitters. All 
the sittings are free, except in one gallery, built out of the poor's 
fund, and rented for behoof of the poor of the parish. The manse 
was built in 1788. The extent of the glebe is from 6 to 7 acares. 
It lies at a mile's distance from the manse, and lets at L.5 Sterling, 
but there isalso a small croft contiguous to the manse, which may be 
worth about L.2* The amount of stipend is 190 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 
pecks grain, with L. 60 Scots^ allowance for communion elements. 
A missionary preaches every third Sabbath at Dispolly in Strathal- 
ladale, supported partly by the Royal Bounty, and partly by the 
people. There is a catechist, too, supported in the same manner^ 
and elected by the kirk-session. We have no Dissenting nor Se- 
ceding chapels, nor indeed any Dissenters. Divine service on 
the Lord's-day is well attended. 

' Education.'^Tbere are five schools in the parish-^the parochial 
school at New Reay, an Assembly's school at Melvich, and three 
supported by individual subscription. The branches of instruction 
generally taught in them, are^ English reading, writing, arithmetic, 
and English grammar, and in the parochial and Assembly schoolsi 
Greek, Latm, mathematics, geography, &c The salary of the 
parochial schoolmaster is the maximum. The number of young be- 
tween the ages of six and fifteen years who can neither read nor 
write is about 54, and the number of those upwards-of fifteen years 
unable to read or. write is about 200. The people in general are 
alive to the benefits of education, and there is a great and visible 
change in their conduct and morals since the diffusion of know- 
ledge became so general. That pernicious attachment to the 
drinking of spirituous liquors, which formerly prevailed, has now 
been in a great measure abandoned. 

Poor arid Parochial -FimA.— The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is at present upwards of 100, and average 



CANISBAT. 21 

sum allotted each per year, Ss. The annual amount of contribu- 
.tions for their relief is principally from church collections. There 
is certainly a disposition among them to refrain from seeking pa- 
rochial relief; and they do consider it degrading, but sheer ne- 
cessity urges them to it There are no prisons. 

Fairs. — Two fairs are held at the cross of New Reay^ one in 
the beginning of September, and the other in the end of Decem- 
ber; but very little business is transacted at either. 

/fii».— -There are four inns or public-houses'; but we are happy 
to state, that the people are now so far ali?e to the evils of 
whisky-drinking, and the poverty and misery attendant on in- 
temperance, as to frequent them but very seldom. 

Fkd, — The fuel commonly made use of is peat Every one 
cuts and prepares this for himself. 

Jufy 1840. 



PARISH OF CANISBAY. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF CAITHNESS AND 

SUTHERLAND. 

THE REV. PETER JOLLY, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, Boundaries^ Extenty S^e, — It is difficult to say what is the 
origin of the name of this parish. Some have supposed it to be 
a corruption of ^^ Canute's bay.'' Others imagine it to be firom the 
plant Canna, which seems to have been at one time very abundant 
in the place. This latter derivation appears the more probable, 
from the circumstance that in all the older parochial registers the 
name is spelt Cannasbay. 

The figure of the parish is on the whole exceedingly regular. 
It forms the north-east corner of Scotland ; and is bounded on 
the east, by the German Ocean ; on the north, by the Pentland 
Frith ; on the west, by the parish of Dunnet ; and on the south, 
by the parishes of Bower and Wick. From east to west along the 
Pentland Frith the length is upwards of 8 miles ; and from north 
to south, where it is washed by the German Ocean, the breadth is 
nearly 8 miles, but the mean breadth may be estimated at 6 



!22 CAITHNESS-3U1RE. 

miles. The island of Stroma, situated in the Pentland Frith, and 
about a league distant from the mainland, belongs to the parish. 
The word Stroma is supposed to be of Danish or Norwegian ori^ 
gin, and signifies the island in the current Stroma contains about 
a square mile of surface ; thus the whole extent of the parish may 
be stated at about 50 square miles. 

Canisbay is remarkably level The Ward or Watch hill is the 
only eminence of any moment in the parish. Its height above 
the level of the sea may be about 800 feet. 

The principal headlands are Grey-head, Skirsa-head, St John's 
or Mey*head, and Duncansbay^head. The last mentioned head- 
land, the Berubium of Ptolemy, from which the shore runs nearly 
due west and due south, is decidedly the most beautiful promontory 
in the north of Scotland. It is about two miles in circumference, 
and is indented by several large ravines or ffoes^ as they are here 
termed. It contains one remarkable fissure open down to the level 
of the sea, into which the tides ebb and flow through an opening at 
the base of the intervening rock. It has a natural bridge across 
of alu>ut six yards wide, which is called by the inhabitants, the gbq^ 
In the west end of the island of Stroma there is a similar chasm 
about thirty yards from the precipice. The sea has access to 
it also by an opening at the bottom ; and the natives of the 
island are in the habit of descending into the chasm, (a task which 
is not extremely difiicuU to accomplish,) and of going out at the 
entrance below, and of fishing from the rocks. 

The coast on the east side is bold and precipitous ; on the 
north it is more level, though in different places the rocks are of 
considerable altitude. Near Duncansbay Head are two insulated 
rocks of an oval form, surrounded by the sea, called the Stacks of 
Duncansbay. They shoot up fantastically.to a great height. One 
of them is considerably larger than the other : and when seen froni 
a little distance, they look like the huge spires of some old Gothic 
edifice. During the spring and summer months they form the 
rendezvous of innumerable sea fowl ; and on the top of the larger 
stack the eagle has its eyrie. 

The only bays are, Freswick bay on the east ; and Duncansbay 
and Gills bays on the north. Along Freswick bay, the beach is 
composed principally of sand, a mixture of sandstone and shells. 
The beach at Duncansbay is altogether of broken shells. At 
Gills, he beach consists of flat rocks interspersed with shingle. 
There is a sandy beach at Huna, a mixture of shells and sand* 
stone, but scarcely any thing deserving the name of a bay. 



CANISBAT* 23 

Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere is milder 
than might be expected in this high latitude. The summers arc 
not very warm, nor the winters very cold. This may be attributed 
to the flatness of the surface, and to the sea bordering on so great 
a part of the parish. The most prevalent winds are from the west 
and south-west. After the autumnal equinox, there commonly 
falls a great quantity of rain for the subsequent six months. The 
weather, on the average of the year, may be described as moist 
and variable, rather than tempestuous. The aurora borealis is 
often seen here in great splendour. It begins to be visible in the 
month of September, and is occasionally of uncommon brilliancy. 
It has been observed in a few instances to assume a dark purple 
tinge, which gives it an awfully beautiful and magnificent appear- 
ance. 

Climate. — There are no diseases peculiar to the place. The 
most prevalent distempers are, fever, inflammation, and rheuma* 
tism. The employments of the greater part of the inhabitants, 
exposing them to the moisture and variableness of the climatOi 
may partially account for the predominance of these. 

Hydrography. — The Pentland Frith separates the Orkney 
islands from the north of Scotland. It forms a communication 
between the German and Atlantic Oceans, and is reckoned twenty- 
four miles in length, and from twelve to fourteen miles in average 
breadth. At the east end of the frith, stretching from Duncans- 
bay Head, is a rough and dangerous piece of sea, called the Boars 
of Duncansbay ; and opposite to St John's Head in Mey, there 
is also a similar piece of sea, called the Men of Mey. In both 
places, the tide is very rapid, and the roughness is produced by 
the collision of different currents. The Men of Mey and the 
Boars of Duncansbay appear only alternately, the former with the 
ebb, and the latter with the flood-tide. The current in the Pent- 
land Frith is said to run at spring-tides nine miles, and in stormy 
weather ten miles an hour. For about half an hour at the turn 
of the tide, little or no current is perceptible. North-east from 
Duncansbay Head, in the eastern entrance of the frith, and about 
six miles distant, lie the Pentland Skerries. On the larger of the 
two, a light-house was erected some years ago. It consists of 
two towers, the one considerably higher than the other, with a 
stationary light on each. Now that a light-house has been erected 
on Dunnet Head, at the western entrance of the frith, the navi- 
gation has become comparatively safe even at night 

Springs. — There is abundance of fresh water springs in the ^« 



24 CAITHNE6S-8HIRE. 

rish. There are also some mineral springs of the chalybeate kind. 
The most remarkable of these is one near the old castle of Fres- 
wick. The loch of Mey is the only loch in the parish ; its cir- 
cumference may be about a mile and a-half, and its depth is not 
great. There is no river, — and only a few rivulets or burns, col- 
lected from the different mosses in the winter season ; the chief 
of these is the bum of Freswick. 

Geohgy and Mineralogy. — The rocks in general are composed 
of a red sandstone, and in some places of a rock resembling grey- 
wacke. At Quoys there is a little limestone ; and at Mey, on the 
property of the Earl of Caithness, there is abundance of it to be ob- 
tained. A light black loan^ with an intermixture of moss, forms 
the general character of the cultivated ground. The lands of Mey 
have in some places a mixture of clay. Heath and deep moss, 
with an occasional patch of rough pasture grass, cover fully nine- 
tenths of the parish. 

Zoology. — There are no rare or uncommon animals. At one 

period, indeed, wolves are said to have existed in the parish. 

Between Brabster and Freswick, there is a hollow, called Wolfs 

Bum : the tradition is, that the last wolf seen in Caithness was 

killed in this particular spot All around the coast, cod are to« 

lerably numerous : and lobsters also are caught in considerable 

numbers. Coal-fish, or, as they are provincially termed, euddens^ 

are at some seasons of the year caught in immense quantities, and 

are of great use to the poorer inhabitants, as they not only serve 

for food, but supply plenty of oil for light. 

11. — Civil History. 
Eminent Men. — Under this head we may notice the Rev. John 

Morison, D. D., for eighteen years minister of this parish. He 
was the author of several of the paraphrases approved by a Com- 
mittee of the General Assembly, and appended to the Vevsion of 
the Psalms used in the Church of Scotland. His are, the 19th, 
2l6t, 27th, 2dth, 29th, dOth, and d5th. His versions of the 27th 
and 28th were said to have been slightly altered by Logan, who 
was his contemporary and intimate friend. Several effusions of 
Dr Morison's youthful muse appeared in the Edinburgh Weekly 
Magazine, under the signature of Mus»us. By the testimony of 
all who knew him, Dr Morison was an accomplished scholar, and 
an eloquent preacher. He was a native of Aberdeenshire, and 
died on 12th June 1798, in the 49th year of his age. 

Land- owners. — The proprietors are, the Right Honourable the 
Earl of Caithness ; William James John Alexander Sinclair of 



GANISBAY. 25 

Freswicky at present a minor^ patron of the parish ; and George 
•Sutherland Sbclair, Esq. of Brabster. 

Parochial Reffisters.^^The registers commence in 1651) and 
were r^ularly kept till the Restoration. From that period down 
to 1706, there are no records of any kind whatever. The only 
other gap occurs a few years prior to 1747. From this latte)* 
date down to the present time, the registers have been regularly 
kept ; all the births and marriages are registered ; the deaths are 
not . 

Antiquities.-^This parish seems at one time to have been di- 
vided into districts, and to have had chapels for religious purposes 
in each of them. Scarcely a vestige now remains of any of these 
chapels, but several aged individuals remember to have seen some 
of thenu They are still known by name. At Mey, on St John's 
Head, there was one dedicated to St John ; at Freswick, one to 
St Maddan j at Brabster, one to St Tustan ; at Duncansbay, one 
to the Virgin Mary, the locality of which is still known by the 
name of Lady Kirk ; and it is highly probable that what is now 
the parish church was originally intended only for the use of the 
adjoining district. At Freswick are to be seen the ruins of an 
old castle, called Bucholie Castle. It seems to be of very great 
antiquity. Pennant in his Tour says that it was inhabited by a 
Danish nobleman of the name of Suenus Asteilf in the twelfth 
century. It is situated on a high rock, almost surrounded by the 
sea, and appears to have been a place of considerable strength. 
On the top of Duncansbay Head, and about fifty yards from the 
precipice, may be traced the site of a circular building of about 
twenty teet diameter, which is supposed to have been a watch-* 
tower, and to have communicated with a similar one on the top 
of the Warth Hill. The distance from Duncansbay Head to 
the Warth or Watch Hill is about two miles, and a signal from 
the one would of course be readily perceived at the other. 

There are no traces of camps or forts; but from some entries 
in the Session records it would appear that either Cromwell or 
some of his officers were in this remote corner. Thus March 29, 
1652, ^^ No session holden, by reasone the Inglishe being quarter- 
ed in the- bounds, the congregation was few in number, and ther 
was not a sederunt of elders, nather was ther any delinquents 
charged." Again May 2, 1652, " Ther not being a sederunt, by 
reasone of a partio of Inglishe horsemen being in our feilds, whilk 
made the congregation fewer in number, and severall of the elde 
to be absent." And again, December 30, 1655, ** Adam 




26 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

convict of drinking on the Sabbathe, and haveing masking plays 
in bis house for the Inglishemen, he was ordained to mak publick 
confession of his £siult the next Sabbatb.^^ 

As this old register contains some curious entries, I shall quote 
a few of them. ** December 27, 1652, Ordained yt for mending 
ye people, ye better to keepe the kirk, a roll of ye names of the 
families be taken up, and Sabbathlie, yt they be called upon by 
name, and who bees netted absent sail pay 40d. toties quoties.*' 
Again same day and date, ^^ Item, Ordained yt if ane elder 
or other paroshiner be fund drinking in ane ailhouse on the 
Sabbath day, or extraordinarly on the week-day, who bees net- 
ted to faill sail pay 40d. for the first fait, and mak publick 
confession before the congregation, with certification if any be 
fund to fall therein againe, they sail undergoe higher censure, 
especially an elder/' Again, ^^ March 4, 1654, For mending 
the people of Stroma to keepe the kirk better, it was ordained 
yt no passenger coming over to the kirk sail pay any fraught, 
and if any yt heve boats stay away they sail pay 3 p. 4d. and 
others 40d/' This is a most salutary regulation, and, 1 am 
sorry to say, as necessary now, if it could be carried into effect as it 
was nearly 200 years ago. I shall only add one other extract It is 
regarding the appointment of a schoolmaster in this parish in the 
year 1660, and furnishes a remarkable contrast even with the present 
very inadequate remuneration of parochial teachers : '^ Oct. 28, 
] 660. So few elders remaining as no session culd be holden, yet 
the minister with them yt were present haveing the consent of the 
rest, condescended and agreed with Donald Reid Skinner to be 
schoolmaster at Cannisbey, for teaching the young children that 
suld be sent to him, and for his paines 5 bolls victuall was pro- 
mised him in the yeir, whilk he thinking too little yet accepted to 
undertake the charge, and to enter with all convenient diligence 
provideing the said 5 bolls victuall be duelie payed, and that he 
may have furniture of peats to supplie his present need." 

About a mile and a half to the west of the beautiful promon- 
tory of Duncansbay Head stood the celebrated John o' Groat's 
House. Nothing but the site where this once famous building is 
said to have stood, is now to be discerned. The traditionary story 
respecting Malcolm, Gavin, and John de Groat having arrived 
here from Holland in the reign of James IV. of Scotland ; their 
having purchased the lands of Duncansbay ; their commemorating 
their arrival by an annual festive meeting, and the ingenious plan 
which John de Groat adopted of building an octagonal house with 



CAKISBAT. 



27 



a corresponding number of doorsy. &c., to prevent all quarrels about 
precedence among the eight different families or proprietors of 
that name, among whom the property seems, in process of time, 
to have been divided ; — is so well known, that it would be superflu- 
ous to repeat it here. 

Modem Buildings. — Barrogill Castle, the seat of the Earls of 
Caithness, has of late received great additions, and is now an ele- 
gant and commodious residence* The House of Freswick is a 
large building, but from its not having been inhabited for many 
years, is in a state of disrepair. The mansion-house of Brabster 
is situated in an inland part of the parish, and is not now inhabited : 
its owner, George S. Sinclair, Esq. has lately enlarged the House 
of West Canisbay, situated on a part of his property near the sea, 
and rendered it a comfortable residence. 

- The parish church received a very extensive repair in the years 
1832-33. It was newly floored, seated, and roofed. 

HI. — Population. 

The population in 1755 was 1481 

1801, 1966 
1811, 1936 
1821, 2128 
1831, 2364 
1836, 2409 
The yearly^average of births for the last seven years, 70 

deaths, 

marriages, . 

Number of families in the parish in 1831, 

chiefly employed in agriculture, 

in trade, mannfactures, or handicraft, 50 

The only permanently residing heritor is George Sutherland 
Sinclair, Esq. of Brabster. The Earl of Caithness occasionally 
passes a few months at Barrogill Castle. 

There are only two farms in the parish, with the exception of 
what the heritors themselves cultivate, that let for more than L.50 
per annum. The inhabitants in general rent small possessions, 
varying from L.] to L.dO per annum. The most common rent is 
from L. 5 to L. 20. The principal dependence of the people is 
upon fishing, and, with very few exceptions, all the males fish for 
themselves and their families. 

The houses in general are built partly of stones and partly of turf : 
they are roofed with turf and straw, and contain two apartments. 

The people are sober and industrious, and, were it not for the 
excessively high rents, would be contented with their situation and 
circumstances. 

There are at present in the parish 2 insane, 3 idiots, 3 blind, 
2 deaf and dumb children. 



26 

13 

494 

405 



yj CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

A cowideniWe degree of aciiteness and shrewdness is observ- 
able anooff the population, and scandalous offences are seldom 
bMid o£ Tbe language spoken is the common dialect of the 
k^wJaods of Scotland. Gaelic is not known. 

Smusffling prevailed at one time to a great extent in the island 
of Stfoma, and its^ peculiar situation gave it great advantages for 
tbat illicil trade; but, by the indefatigable exertions of the Excise, 
it has within the last year or two been entirely suppressed. As 
misht naturally be expected, the effects of smuggling on the morals 
of the inhabitants were most pernicious ; and from their being oc* 
ctsionally detected by the excise, and severely fined, their worldly 
cjicumstances were materially injured. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The precise number of acres 
in the parish has never been ascertained. I should think that not 
more than one-tenth has ever been in a state of cultivation. The 
arable ground may therefore be estimated at 3200 acres, and the 
moorland and pasture at 28,800 acres. The latter is in a state 
of undivided common, and, from the great depth of moss that 
covers the greater part of it, would be very difficult to bring it into 
cultivation. The tenants are in the habit of sending their horses, 
cattle, swine, and sheep during the spring, summer, and autumn 
months, to pasture on the common nearest their possessions. Re- 
cently, however, the Earl of Caithness has instituted a process 
claiming a division of the whole coomions in the parish, the pre- 
lude, it is to be hoped, of a better system. 

Rent. — The rent of arable land is high ; little of it being lower 
than L. 1, and the greater part as high as L.2, 2s. per acre. Till of 
late years, it was the practice to pay part of the rent in money, and 
part in victual. The proprietor of the lands of Freswick still re- 
ceives the rent in this latter manner; but the other two proprietors 
have converted the victual into money, at the rate of L. 1 per bolL 
This has proved virtually a very great raising of rent, as none of 
the tenants have, with the exception of the crop 1838, received 
more than from 12s. to 18s. per boll for their victual at market. 

Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants are generally hired for the 
year, and receive from L.6 to L.6^ with 3 bolls of oatmeal, 3 bolls 
of barleymeal, and a competent quantity of potatoes, peats, and 
n^ilk. A day labourer's wages are Is. 6d. in summer, and Is. in 
winter. Females employed as shearers in harvest receive L. 1, 
with half a boll of meal, and some potatoes; and males L. 1, 2s. 
to L. 1, 5s., with (I boll of meal, and potatoes for tlie whole har- 



CANISBAY. 29 

vest A mason's daily wages af e from 128. to 2s. 6d. ; and a car- 
penter's from 2s. 6d. to Ss. ; and other artisans in proportion. 

ImpUmentg of Husbandry. — The ploughs now generally in use 
are made of iron, and cost from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, and are drawn 
by two horses. The carts had till lately wooden axles ; now they 
are seldom to be seen, having almost all been supplanted by iron 
ones. 

'Breeds of Live-stock. — The sheep are in general of a very in- 
different, and, I suppose, indigenous breed. They are small in 
size^ and of every shade of colour from black to white. No at- 
tempts have been made to improve them. They belong to the 
different tenants, who may have from ten to twenty each. Their 
wool is short but soft. It is spun by the females in the winter sea- 
son, and either weaved into blankets or knit into stockings for the 
use of the family. It is also woven into a kind of cloth here 
called black-grey, which is made into wearing clothes for the more 
aged members of the family. The breed of cattle is also very infe- 
rior. Swine are exceedingly numerous. Every family rears one, and 
most families two. They grow to a greater size than might be ex- 
pected from the manner in which they are attended to in their 
youth, and bring at market from L.l, 10s. to L.2, 10s. The Earl 
of Caithness, on his farm of Barrogill mains, has a few Cheviots, 
which answer well. He has also several fine cattle of the Tees- 
water breed. The proprietor of Freswick has at his farm at Fres- 
wick some very fine Highland cattle. And George S. Sinclair of 
Brabster has on his farm several of the Teeswater breed ; and he 
has lately got a few sheep of a cross between the Leicester and 
Cheviot, which have hitherto fully answered bis expectations. 

Husbandry. — With the exception of what the proprietors them- 
selves cultivate, the land is wretchedly cultivated. Rotation of 
crops is unknown among the common people. Bear or big, and 
oats with potatoes for the use of the family, are the only crops to 
be seen. From the cultivated parts of the parish lying in general 
along the shore, and, from the great abundance of sea-weed for 
manure, the crops of bear are good ; but the oat crop is almost 
always very indifferent The fructifying qualities of the sea-weed 
seem to be exhausted in one season; and as neither sea- weed nor 
any other manure is ever laid on the land allotted io the oats, this 
may account for their inferiority. 

Leases are seldom granted, and this is a very great obstacle to 
improvement 

Little has been done in the way of reclaiming waste land. The 



30 CAITHNBSS-SHIRE. 

proprietors do not attempt it, and the people are deterred by the 
immediate imposition of rent Some of the tenants are beginning 
to see the adrantage of sowing turnips and grass ; but the want of 
all enclosures, and the common practice o( turning at large horses 
and cattle, whene?er the harvest is gathered, to find provender 
wherever they can, have hitherto prevented improvement, and till 
the proprietors enforce a difierent system, will continue to keep 
this parish b^ind the rest of Scotland in agriculture. 

The tenants have the houses on their possessions valued at their 
entry; are obliged to keep them in repair; and at their removal 
they u»i^ to get allovrance for any improvement m their value 
durii^j^ the time of their occupancy, and to pay for any depreciation 
in Y;jiUie: but of late this allowance or compri$ementy as it is here 
caUedft has been in many instances refused by the proprietors or 
their agents. No wonder^ theni considering all these unfavour- 
able circumstances, thnt husbandry is in no very flourishing con- 
dition, and that the dwelling-houses of the tenantry are far from 
commodious or comfortable. 

Fisheries. — There are several boats employed yearly in fishing 
lobsters for the London market. The crew of each boat consists 
of two men, and the price received for each lobster is commonly 
threepence. The whole sum brought into the parish from this 
source may be estimated at about L.50 Sterling. There are also 
about thirty large boats of ten tons each, used only for fishing 
herrings. The crew of each consists of five men. They leave this 
for Wick and the neighbouring stations in the middle of July, and 
commonly continue absent from seven to eight weeks. The her- 
rings caught by them are sold fresh to the different curers. The 
value of one of these boats, with a full drift of nets, falls little short 
of L. 100, and the annual average returns to each crew may be 
stated at from L.50 to L.60 Sterling. 

iVodttCf.— The average gross amount and value of raw produce 
raised in the parish for the food of man and the domestic animals, 
as nearly as can be ascertained, may be stated as follows :«- 

Grain of all kinds, say T . L.6000 

Potatoes, turnips, hay, and pasture, say 1600 

liberies, say 1650 

Total yearly value of raw produce raised, }i.9250 

Mavufactures. — The shores of Canisbay used to yield annually 
above 100 tons of kelp; but now, from its depreciation in value, 
scarcely any is made. 

v.— Parochial Economy. 

Market'tovms, Sfc. — There is no market-town in theparish. Wick 



CANISDAY. 31 

is the markei-towD of the east end of the parish, being sixteen 
miles and a^balf distant from the church, and ten miles from the 
neaiest boundary ; and Thurso, of the west end of the parish, be- 
ing eighteen miles from the church and twelve miles from the 
nearest boundary. 

There are two post-offices, one at Mey and one at Huna. From 
the fast mentioned, the mail-boat with the Orkney bags crosses 
the frith three times a week : but, by a recent arrangement, it is 
intended to cross every lawful day. The distance from Huna to 
the landing place in Orkney is twelve miles, and the freight of the 
boat is 10s. ; but a passenger going along with the mails pays only 
Is. To Huna the mail is conveyed daily from Wick in a gig ; 
and to Mey there is a runner from Thurso post-office every lawful 
day ; between Mey and Huna post-offices, a distance of five miles, 
there is no communication. 

Boadt. — The length of good and passable turnpike road in the 
parish is twelve miles. An old road that runs for a considerable 
distance parallel to the new line, and which passes through the 
inhabited parts of the parish, is principally used by the parishioners, 
though in a total state of disrepair. By the Act of Parliament 
that authorized the new line, the old line also is appointed to be 
kept in repair, but, I believe, want of funds has hitherto prevented 
this most desirable object from being carried into effect. A cross 
road through Brabstermire is very much needed to give the inha- 
bitants access to the middle of the county. The roads in this pa- 
rish, as in Caithness, generally present the rather anomalous fact 
of being almost all parallel to each other, with scarcely a single 
connecting cross road. 

Harbours. — Notwithstanding the great number of boats, there 
is no regularly built harbour. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The period at which the church was built 
cannot be ascertained. It received a substantial repair, as was stated 
before, in the years 1832-3. Previously, the inhabitants had seats 
of their own, which they claimed as private property ; but since the 
new seating in 1833, the heritors have divided the sittings accord- 
ing to their respective valued rents, and let them annually — a sys- 
tem considered^by the people not only an innovation but an impo- 
sition. The form of the church is that of a cross : it is as conve- 
niently situated as it can possibly be, — being six miles and a-half 
from the one extremity of the parish, and five and a-half from the 
other. Giving the customary allowance to each sitter, the church 



32 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

would let fof 512 sitters, but will accommodate more. There are 
no free sittings. 

The manse received an extensive repair at the same time with 
the church, but cannot be made a comfortable house. The glebe, 
including garden and stance of manse and offices, is barely 4^ 
Scotch acres in extent, and may be valued at about L. 8 Sterling. 
The stipend is 120 imperial bolls of oat-meal ; 87 quarters, 8 
bushels barley ; and L. 10 for communion elements. 

There are no Government churches in the parish ; but to the Gro- 
vernment church at Keiss, in the parish of Wick, there is annexed a 
contiguous district of this parish, containing, according to the cen- 
sus of 1831, exactly 160 individuals. There is no Dissenting place 
of worship in the parish, unless we give that name to a meeting of 
a few Scotch Baptists in a room situate at the west end of the 
parish. 

From a survey made in the spring of the year 1836, it appears 
that there are in the parish, quoad sacra, 24 Baptists, and 6 Inde- 
pendents, who along with their families make in all 77 souls. The 
members of the Establishment in full communion are 182, and with 
their families, and such as attend the Established Church but are 
not communicants, comprehend all the other inhabitants. The 
parish church is well attended in the summer months, but, from the 
badness of the roads in^'many places, often indifferently in winter. 

Education, — The schools are, the parochial school, two sup- 
ported by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Know- 
ledge, one subscription school, and two others on the teachers' own 
adventure. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations $ 
:^nd the salary is the maximum, with an allowance of two guineas 
in lieu of a garden. The usual branches are taught, and the fees 
are extremely moderate. The total income, including the emolu- 
ments arising from the office of session-clerk, does not exceed L. 45 
per annum. The Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge aU 
low their teacher at Mey L. 15; and their teacher in Stroma L. 10, 
with L. 4 to his wife for teaching females to knit and sew. The 
whole income of each does not exceed L. 24 per annum. The 
teacher of the subscription school at Freswick receives L.14, but no 
fees : and the schools on the teachers' own adventure, being in the re- 
mote and poorer districts, cannot be reckoned as yielding more than 
fr(3m L.5 to L. 8 each. The branches principally taught in all the 
schools, are, English reading, writing, and arithmetic. All between 
six and fifteen«years of age can read, but the females are not com- 
monly taught to write. There are none upwards of fifteen years of 
€igc who cannot read, except a very few aged individuals. The 



CANlSBAY- 33 

district most in want of the means of education is the inland part 
of the parish, where the population is too small to be able to sup- 
port a teacher, and too remote to benefit by the schools already 
in existence. 

LUerature.'^Tvio years ago, Messrs Morison and Andrew 
Snody, natives of this parish, who left it many years ago, and have 
prospered in the Jegal profession, made a present of about 100 vo* 
lumes on religious subjects, as the beginning of a religious library. 
Mr George Dunnet, merchant in Thurso, also a native of this pa^ 
rish, has since given five guineas for the same benevolent purpose. 
The books already obtained are all generally taken out, and, from 
the care with which they have been selected, must prove of great 
advantage. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is about 90. The annual allowance to 
each varies from 6s. to 10s. ; certainly a very trifling sum, but the 
poor receive it very gratefully, as a small addition to their other 
means of subsistence. The collections in the church average about 
L. 14 annually. There are several small mortifications, the inte- 
rest of which is divided among the poor along with the annual col- 
lections. There is one legacy by a Mr Oswald of L. 100 ; one 
of L. 80 by a Mr Innes of South Carolina, son of Mr Innes who 
was once minister of this parish, and an annuity of 100 merks Scots, 
left by William Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick. To this, there is to 
be added interest upon an accumulation of L. 205 of William Sin- 
clair of Freswick's annuity, which had not been paid for many years. 
The whole gross income from interest of mortification and arrears, 
together with the collections in church, amounts annually to about 
h. 38 Sterling. There is no other fund for the support of the 
poor, and assessment for the purpose has never yet been made. 

Fairs. — Two small markets for the sale of horses, cattle, and 
swine are held in the parish — one in February at Freswick, and 
the other in December at Canisbay. 

Inns and Ale-houses. — There are no less than six inns, which 
have a pernicious influence on the morals and industry of the peo- 
ple. Half the number would be more than sufficient for all use- 
ful purposes^ Indeed, Huna inn may be said to be the only one 
indispensably necessary. 

Fuel — The only fuel is peat and turf from the mosses, which 
appear to be inexhaustible. The only expense incurred is the la- 
bour necessary for cutting, drying, and carrying the fuel home. 

CAITHNESS. C 



34 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

MiSCELLANBOTTS OBSERVATIONS. 

In conclusion, I cannot say that the general appearance of the 
parish has materially varied since the last Statistical Account was 
drawn up. The proprietors have no doubt greatly improved around 
their family mansions ; but the general aspect of the parish, in an 
agricultural point of view, has undergone little or no change. The 
money brought into the parish by the fisheries is all required to 
answer the demands of the landlords; and a better system of hus- 
bandry and increased comfort to the labouring classes, cannot be 
expected till the rents are reduced, and encouraging leases grant- 
ed as in other places. The undivided state of the common has 
also proved a great obstacle to improvement. 

OctoBer 1840. 



OF DUNNET. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. THOMAS JOLLY, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The name Dunnet is apparently derived from the 
Gaelic Dun, signifying hill. The names of many places in the 
parish are, however, of Danish extraction, as Ratter, Syster, 
Roaster, Sunnigoe, Ashigoe, Getterigoe, &c. 

Extent J ^c— -The form of the parish is very irregular, its great- 
est length being about 12 miles, its greatest breadth 6, and the 
narrowest point, from Dunnet to Brough, 2^ miles. It is bound- 
ed on the north and north-east, by the Pentland Frith ; on the 
east and south-east, by the parishes of Canisbay and Bower ; on 
the south, by those of Bower and Olrig; and on the south-west 
and west, by Olrig and Dunnet bay. 

With the exception of Dunnet-head, the whole parish may be 
considered a level district, the elevations being trifling, and run- 
ning in neariy parallel ridges, from north-east to south-west The 
highest point of Dunnet-head rises about 500 feet above the level 
of the sea,— the average height of the parish above that level does 
not exceed 150 feet. 



DUNNKT. 35 

The extent of sea coast is about 15 miles, 1^ miles of which 
to the south of Dunnet are level sand, the remainder rocky. The 
shore round Dunnet-head is quite inaccessible from the land, 
for about eight miles, except at two or three places where the in- 
habitants can go down with difficulty. The remainder along the 
Pentland Frith is low and accessible at several creeks. 

Climate. — The atmosphere is clear when the wind is from the 
sea ; when from the land it is in autumn and spring moist, and the 
weather variable. The climate is on the whole healthy. Snow 
seldom lies any length of time, nor do frosts generally go deep 
into the soil. Crops are late in ripening — in general from four- 
teen to twenty days behind the Lothians. 

The current in the Pentland Frith is exceedingly strong during 
spring tides, so that no vessel can stem it. ' The flood tide runs 
from west to east at the rate of ten miles an hour, with new and 
full moon. It is then high water at Scarfskerry at nine o'clock. 
Immediately as the water begins to fall on the shore, the cur- 
rent turns to the west, but the strength of the flood is so great in 
the middle of the Frith, that it continues to run east till about 
twelve. These contiguous currents, running with such velocity from 
opposite directions, have a strange appearance from the land. 
With a gentle breeze of westerly wind about eight o'.clock in the 
morning, the whole frith seems as smooth as a sheet of glassy 
from Dunnet-head to Hoy-head in Orkney. About nine the sea 
begins to rage for about 100 yards off* the Head, while all without 
continues smooth as before. This appearance gradually advances 
towards the frith, and along the shore to the east, though the efiepts 
are not much felt upon the shore till it reaches Scarfskerry-^ 
head, which is about three miles distant from Dunnet-head, as 
the land between these points forms a considerable bay. By two 
o'clock the whole frith seems to rage. About three in the after- 
noon, it is low water on the' shore, when all the former phenome- 
na are reversed — the smooth water beginning to appear next the 
land, and advancing gradually till it reaches the middle of the 
frith. From the strength of the tides, and the surprising velo- 
city of these contiguous currents in opposite directions, Pentland 
Frith is a very dangerous navigation to strangers, especially if they 
approach near the land. But the natives along the coast are so 
well acquainted with the direction of the tides, that they can take 
advantage of every one of these currents, to carry them safe to 
one harbour or another. Hence very few accidents happen but 



36 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

from want of skill or knowledge of the tides. The frith is about 
twelve miles broad opposite to Dunnet. 

Hydrography. — There are ten small lakes on Dunnet-head ; 
they contain no fish of any kind* There are three, of a mile each, 
or thereby, in length, and about half that extent in breadth, in the 
lower part of the parish, viz. the Loch of Hayland, Syster, and St 
John's. The principal mi lis are supplied by them with water. There 
are a few trouts in the Loch of Syster ; the others are frequented by 
eels. There is a considerable quantity of marl in Loch Hayland. 
Loch Syster is also said to contain marl, but it has not been 
searched. The scenery of Loch Syster is very lonely, being 
nearly surrounded with deep moss in a barren district 

Geology. — In this parish there are only two dbtinct formations 
of rock. Dunnet-head is altogether composed of freestone, chiefly 
of a brownish cofour, but some of it white, very hard and durable. 
Tlie strata dip or incline to the north-east, at an angle of nearly 
45^. This headland contains 3000 acres. The remainder of the 
parish is the common flag-stone slate of the county, also generally 
dipping to the north-east, at an angle of from 20"" to 60^. No sim- 
ple minerals have been discovered in the parish. There are a 
number of springs, much impregnated with iron ; but this may 
arise from the slate containing a considerable portion of that mi- 
neral. 

There are great varieties of soil in the parish. Dunnet-head is 
entirely covered with moss, to a considerable depth, betwixt which 
and the freestone, there is a hard pan of moorland, making the 
moss retentive of water. The cultivated lands round Dunnet are 
a dry black sandy loam ; also on the shore of the Pentland Frith, 
the soil is black loam lying on a sandy clay at about five feet from 
the rock. This soil is generally wet and difficult to drain ; it has 
no pan, but the clay being retentive, keeps the moisture on the 
surface. The southern districts of the parish are generally a 
clayey loam, lying on a bed of clay, from 2 to 5 feet in depth. 
Where the slate is rotten on the top, the land is dry ; where it is 
hard, the land is uniformly wet and retentive. There are also 
about 3000 acres of moss in the low ground, on the east of the 
parish, varying in depth from 2 to 16 feet, lying on blue clay — 
producing stunted heath and other coarse herbage. In these 
mosses, dwarf birch, hazel, and saughs are found near the bottom^ 
in considerable quantities, which show they were formerly covered 
with brushwood. To the east of Dunnet Bay, there are 2000 



DUNNET. 87 

acres of land covered with sand, from 1 to 10 feet, (the debris of 
Dunnet-head, carried into the bay by the sea, and drifted eastwards.) 
These links were formerly common, and overstocked and poached 
with cattle. They were subject to break up and drift into the in». 
terior, covering up considerable tracts of arable land, where the 
yestiges of the houses are still seen. They have since been di« 
vided and protected ; they are now covered with herbage. Bent 
grows rapidly near the shore, and arrests the progress of the sand, 
which is forming rapidly into a ridge of knolls already from 20 to 90 
feet above high water mark, and covered to the sea with bent. A 
small portion is still used as a common by the township of Dunnet ; 
the cattle destroy the bent, and it is still subject to breaking up 
and drifting. On these links, where spongy, a vast number of the 
marl shells breed on the surface ; but except the Loch of Hayland 
on the east of the links, there is no pond to retain them : hence, 
except in this loch, there is no marl, as the shelb are swept to the 
sea by the winter floods. 

Zoology, — Numbers of the various kinds of sea-fowl frequent 
the coast There are a few eagles, hawks, and ravens, vast num- 
bers of plovers and snipes, with a fair proportion of partridges and 
grouse, and almost all the varieties of small birds peculiar to Scot* 
land. Of wild quadrupeds the number is few, comprising otters, 
polecats, and weasels. Foxes have disappeared from the district ; 
hares abound, and there are a number of rabbits in the links — also 
a few seals along the coast 

There are still about 400 sheep on Dunnet-head, belonging to 
the small tenants surrounding it on the east, mostly of the original 
short-tailed breed of the country. They are the same race as the 
Shetland sheep — are small and nimble — produce a little fine wool, 
of various colours ; their mutton is very fine, but they seldom get 
fat, or weigh above 36 lbs. The young lambs are covered with a 
strong coat of curled hair for a few weeks after lambing, exactly 
resembling Siberian lamb skin, — hence I would attribute to them 
a Scandinavian origin. They are altogether a worthless breed, 
and not easily improved by crossing with more improved races of 
sheep. 

Dunnet Bay abounds with haddocks and other white fish. 
There is likewise a tolerable salmon-fishing at the mouth of 
the Burn of Dunnet Salmon are also taken in the Pentland 
Frith, near Brough, but the fishing there has not as yet been much 
prosecuted. There are occasionally shoals of herrings in the bay. 



38 CAITHNESS-dHlRE. 

ID June and July, but they are not to be depended on as affording a 
regular fishing. Great numbersof cod and ling are taken in the Pent'- 
land Frith, as well as lobsters and other shell fish. The lobsters are 
collected by a London company at dd. each, from the fishermen, 
and forwarded by smacks to the London market Nupnbers of Lon- 
don fishing smacks also frequent the frith for cod and ling. In the 
lakes there are a number of eels; and trouts only in the Loch of 
Syster. A few of these were put into the Loch of Dunnet, or 
St John's Loch, a few years ago, by Dr John Jolly. It is not 
yet ascertained if they have bred. St John's Loch is much re- 
sorted to on the first Monday of May, and the first Monday of 
August, November, and February, O. S., by invalids from all 
parts of the country. They walk round it, bathe, throw a piece of 
money into the water, and are out of sight of it by sunrise. Hy- 
pochondriacs and nervous people may sometimes feel better after 
this, from the power of imagination and exertion ; but those seri- 
ously ill are of course the worse for it, and die occasionally by 
the road. 

The secret of the matter seems to be this : there was a Ca* 
Iholic chapel (St John's,) at the east end of the lake, to the wa- 
ters of which the saint must have communicated virtuous qualities. 
The money is evidently the offering to the altar ; hence the very 
worthy practice of curing the sick and enriching the church. 
After the Reformation, the practice of throwing the money into the 
loch would begin, it being possible that the minister would instruct 
them to do so. It is astonishing, that in these days such a su- 
perstitious rite should be continued ; but so it is, and people who 
should know better have recourse to it. I do not think it does much 
good to the people in the parish ; it seems most efficacious to 
those at a distance. 

Botany. — There are a vast number of rare plants on Dunnet- 
Head in a dwarf state. It is said to be a field worth the in- 
spection of the scientific botanist The other districts of the pa- 
rish possess little rare or curious in this department. There is 
nothing worthy of the name of a tree in the parish. A few acres 
of hard-wood were planted three years ago by Mr Traill ; and 
they are promising to grow. Thorn hedges thrive pretty well on 
the clay soils, and walled gardens produce apples and other small 
fruit 

II. — Civil History. 
The following inscription occurs on a grave-stone in the church- 



13UNNET. 39 

yard : " Here lies Margaret Wallace, daughter of William WaK 
lace, who was murdered by Alexander Calder, son of Alexander 
Calder, in Dunnet, because he could not have her in marriage ; 
August 29, in the year of God 1635/' There is still a tra* 
dition that the murder was committed on a Sunday morning, 
and that the murderer, by fleeing to Orkney, escaped punish- 
ment. 

Land»awner9. — The parish is divided into three properties, be- 
twixt James Traill, Esq. of Ratter; William Sinclair, Esq. of 
Freswick; and the Kirk-session. The valued rent is L.2d09, 
I2s. 6d. Scots, and the real rent about 'L. 3600. 

The average of births and baptisms for the last seven years has been 61l^ 
marriages for the same period has been - ~ ^^^ 

There has not been a register of deaths or burials kept in the 
parish. Many of those whose forefathers resided in the neigh- 
bouring parishes have been buried with them, and many from 
th^ neighbouring parishes have, for a similar reason, been buried 
here. 

Antiquities. — Vestiges of three Roman Catholic chapels are still 
visible. One of them was situated at Dunnet-Head, and is supposed 
to have been a place of penance. There are a number of what are 
called Pictish houses over the parish. One of these at Ham is still 
pretty entire. They are supposed by Pennant to have been built 
by the Danes, who at one time possessed all the lower district of 
the county. Their construction seems to have been a circular 
room in the centre, contracting at the top like a bottle, by the pro- 
jection of one stone over another, with a number of out-buildings 
or cells all around. A doorway and passage, covered with strong 
lintels of stone, seem to have led into the centre apartment. 
There is seldom any thing discovered in them when opened, ex- 
cept deer horns, bones, and shells, and occasionally a quern 
stone. They are uniformly situated in the best land, which leads 
us to suppose they were the first settlements for cultivation 
in the county. Another peculiarity is, that there are always 
several of them to be seen from the one you stand upon. This may 
have been for mutual alarm. There are tumuli on all the prin- 
cipal heights in the parish, chiefly composed of small stones, which 
have evidently been in the fire. We are led to suppose they were 
beacons. There is one on the highest point of Dunnel-Head, 
one on the Hill of Barrock, and one on the Hill of Greenland. 

The principal building in the parish '\s the lighthouse, on 



40 CAITHNES8-SHIRE. 

the north-west extremity of Dunnet-Head, which has been erect* 
ed at a great expense, by the Commissioners for Northern 
Lights. It has proved useful for vessels passing the frith,-— 
they frequently mistaking the Bay of Dunnet for it, and get- 
ting wrecked on the sands. Here, on a promontory nearly 500 
feet above the level of the sea, exposed to the fiiry of the gales 
from the Atlantic Ocean, surrounded with moss, and about 
three miles from the nearest habitation, the art of man has made 
a comfortable' dwelling, a garden on deep moss producing fine 
vegetables, and parks where tolerable crops of corn and grass 
are raised on moss twelver feet deep. The principal light-keeper, 
Mr Adair, deserves much credit for his perseverance as a culti- 
vator. 

III. — Population. 
The population, till within sixty years ago consisted simply of 

the proprietors and their tenants. The proprietors farmed the 
Mains ; the tenants had all more or less land allotted them, i|od 
the pasturage in common. They ploughed the land for the pro* 
prietors, carried the manure on their back% or in creels on ponies. 
They reaped, thrashed, and manufactured the crop, carried it to 
market, and shipped it They gave the proprietor part of their 
sheep, cattle, swine, geese, hens and eggs, and a small victual and 
money rent — they were, in fact, next thing to slaves. However, 
in this state, it is said, the proprietors kept excellent tables and 
lived well. The people, too, were not without their comforts. 
All their clothing was of home manufacture, some remnants of 
which are still to be seen — a kind of stuff of fine worsted, dyed 
very dark blue. It served for coat, vest, and breeches for Sim- 
days, and also for gowns to the females ; a more comfortable dress 
for a cold climate than the ruffles, ribbons, and flimsy fabrics now- 
a-days of Glasgow and Manchester. 
Amount of Papuiatiorij — 

, ,^^ Males. Feromlet. ToUl. 

In 1801 - 589 777 1866 

1809 -666 774 1440 

1811 . 638 760 1398 

1821 . 873 989 1862 

1881 - 932 974 1906 

The great disproportion of males and females in the beginning 
of this century was occasioned by the number of young men who 
had gone to the army and navy, or some other seafaring line ; and 
the great increase of population in 1821, was produced chiefly by 



DUNNBT. 41 

i^boutdOO Highlanders from Assynt and Stratbnaver, who had 
been removed from their possessions by the introduction of sheep- 
fanning, and came to this parish. The greater part of them had 
removed before 1831. Their habits not being adapted to an in- 
dustrious life, they soon got in arrears with the landlord, and 
went off, some to the Highlands, others to America. With the 
above exception, the increase of population has risen partly from 
the extension of cultivation, and the fisheries, and the abolition of 
the feudal service which left the people more to their own re- 
sources. 

The whole inhabitants may be said to be of the agricultural 
class, though those along the shore^side are frequently employ- 
ed in fishing. The parish is occupied by 84 tenants, paying from 
L. 8 to L. 350 rent yearly, and 201 paying firom ds. to L. 8 year** 
ly : there are besides ten large farms or mains in the occupation 
of the proprietors. 

Laa^guagt^ ffc. — The English language only is spoken by the 
original inhabitants. The few Highlanders remaining still partly 
retain the GraeUc The children all speak English, and that much 
better than in the southern counties. Playing the knotty (golf) 
on New- Year's Day is almost the only game practised. 

Habits of the People. — The habits of the people in dress and 
cleanliness have much improved of late years. The ordinary food 
is oat and barley-meal, with potatoes, fish, pork, beef, and occa- 
sionally tea and coffee. The practice of making malt and brew- 
ing ale is still understood ; but the severity of the excise laws pre- 
vents people from a liberal use of this wholesome beverage. There 
are, no doubt, numbers in the parish who are much pinched in cir- 
cumstances ; but in general, potatoes and fish of one kind or ano- 
ther, and meal and milk, are within the reach of all. Mostly every 
householder keeps a pig, the pork of which is used in summer, boil- 
ed with cabbage, and though there are a number of families very 
poor, from circumstances over which they have no control, stiU 
the mass of the population may be said to live comfortably, and 
with a considerable degree of independence. 

With regard to general character, they are an acute, sagacious, 
and moral set of people, and possessed of considerable energy in 
managing their own affidrs. With some, there is, perhaps, a want 
of industry, but this originates more from the nature of their 
situation than from indolence. The fisherman's life is too near 
akin to the hunter's for constant application, and the smaller te- 



42 CAlTHNESS-SlIIRE. 

Hants, liaving always a homey food, and fuel, do not, perhaps, be« 
stir themselves so much as they ought 

Poaching prevails to a considerable extent among the young 
-men, when there is snow on the ground. Smuggling is unknown, 
with the exception of small quantities of foreign spirits got by the 
fishermen from vessels passing the frith, and making a little malt 
for ale. But all that is done in either way is quite trifling. 

IV. — Industry. 
The general ejpployment of the people is agriculture and 
fishing. On the coast all are, to a certain extent, fishermen* 
After laying down their crofts in spring, they proceed to the lob- 
ster fishing. In the end of May and June, they cut their peats, 
and prepare for the herring fishing, which commences to the west 
of Thurso about the 1st of July, and sets in at Wick about the 
18th. The whole fishermen and most of the young females set off 
for that station, and remain there for six weeks. They come home 
in September, get their crops cut, and potatoes dug, and betake them- 
selves again to the fishing of cod, saifbes, and siloffs. This is the 
ordinary routine with the coast side population. In the interior, most 
of the cottagers go to the herring fishing, and are employed by the 
proprietors or larger fiumers at the harvest, when not needed at 
home, and afterwards at drsdning, ditching, and other agricultural 
operations. There is also a number of shoemakers, tailors, smiths, 
Wrights, and weavers in the parish, but all hold more or less land, 
Hud a great portion of them are at some seasons fishermen. The 
above is the most numerous class in the parish. The next is the 
tenant, paying from L. 15 to L. 50 rent, who follows no profession 
save agriculture, and that generally in its ancient form, viz. bear 
and oats alternately. Most of them, however, now grow a few 
turnips and a little clover, and are decidedly improving; but, parti v 
from want of skill, capital, and encouragement from proprietors in 
leases, fencing, and draining, they have made little progress in 
improving their farms or bettering their own condition. From the 
circumstance of the produce of the county far exceeding the wants 
of the population, especially the growth of beef and mutton, and 
the means of transport by steam being in operation, it is a ques- 
tion whether this class can long hold land, either with benefit to 
themselves or the proprietors, unless they exert themselves, and 
produce articles fit for the market, seeing that land is much lower 
rented here than farther south. And the southern markets being 



DUNNET. 4J 

DOW opened up, it is folly to think that the land will lie idle, or 
only half-cultivated, for any length of time. 
' The next classes are the large tenants and the proprietors' farm* 
servants, who are constantly employed in agriculture. 

There are two retail shops and two public-houses in th6 parish. 

The extent of the parish is about 17,000 acres, whereo^5000 
are cultivated, and the remainder improvable pasture, moss, and 
links. The links may be stated at 2000 acres ; the moss 6000 acres, 
«— which leaves 4000 acres still capable of being brought into culti- 
vation. The rent of land varies much according to circumstances. 
It may, however, be taken as an average at 12s. per acre ; for arable 
land, varying from 5s. to L.1, 10s.[; the average of grazing a cow for 
a year on good land is L.4, on poor soils L.2. Leicester sheep, 
of which there are upwards of 700 in the parish, pay about L.1 
a-head ; the sheep kept on the moors by small tenants and on 
Dunnet-Head, are of little value, perhaps Is. 6d. each per 
annum. 

Wages. — Farm servants' wages are, for men L. 6 to L. 8 yearly, 
6^ bolls oatmeal, 2 bolls potatoes, vnth house and fire, and a chopin 
of milk daily. Boys less in proportion. Out-door women get 
L.1, 10s., 2 bolls meal, with milk and potatoes for the half year. 
House servants (women) get from L.1, 10s. to L.1, 15s. half yearly. 
Shearers in harvest, for eight weeks, (men) get L.1, 10s. with a 
stone of meal weekly, a few potatoes, and a chopin of milk daily. 
Women, L.1 wages, half a boll of meal, a few potatoes, and a 
mutchkin of milk daily. Ordinary labourers get from Is. to Is. 6d. 
per day ; women 6d. ; wrights 2s. ; masons and blacksmiths the 
same. Mason work, wall height, girth measure, is done for 
L.1, 16s. per rood of 36 yards, all materials found. Wood, iron 
work, and saddlers' are fully higher than in other parts of the 
kingdom. 

The common breed of cattle is an inferior description of the 
Highland, much deteriorated by importations from Orkney. They 
are generally sleek-skinned and coarsely made. In many instances 
they come to a good size, and the cows milk better than pure Higli- 
landers. In most cases, they are badly kept, and of course the 
great proportion of cattle stock in the parish is bad. The ordi- 
nary price of small tenants' two year old stots and queys, taken 
off by drovers, has for the last fifteen years ranged from L.1, 15s. 
to L. 3 ; the price of cows from L. 3 to L. 6. On the large farms 
and mains, where the land is well cultivated, and a regular sys- 



44 CAITHNESS-SHIRE* 

tem of alternate husbandry introduced, there are good stocks of 
cattle of the Teeswater breeds reaching at three years old, from 45 
to 56 stones beef^ and bringing in the London market from L.15 

to L.ia 

The general breed of sheep is the Leicester, with those before- 
mentioned on Dunnet-Head, and a few Cheviots kept by tenants. 
The Leicesters have hitherto thriven very well, produce wool 
equal to any in the kingdom, and get to a good weight at 15 
months old. Wedders of that age bring from L.J, 8s. to L.1, lOg^ 
each, and best ewes nearly the same. 

The breed of horses is of all descriptions, from the pony to the 
first-rate Clydesdale. Mr Gunn of Ratter imported a stallion 
twelve months ago from Lanarkshire, of an excellent figure, and 
at a high price (Lb 200). The size of cattle, horses, and other 
stock, as well as the quality of grain and green crops, is regulated 
by the size of the farms — where large, things in general are good, 
where small, bad in the extreme. The breed of swine has been 
much improved of late^ by importations of the best English va- 
rieties. 

Impropements. — On the farms in the parish, where improve-* 
ments have been made, or are making, the mode of reclaiming 
waste land is, to lay it out in suitable fields with ditches and thorn 
hedges, protected either with flag, which makes an excellent fence, 
or stone dikes 20 inches high with a Galloway cope, then under- 
drain with drains frgm 3 to 5 feet deep, as is necessary ; plough 
and allow it to lie for two years, then fallow and lime or marl, and 
if dry soil, make turnips with bone dust, which are fed off with 
sheep, — then a crop and grass seeds, if sufficiently reduced, if not, 

two crops, — then fallow and dung, and a crop with grass seeds, 

then pasture for three or four years. 

Substantial farm buildings have been erected and are erecting 
where improvements are going on. Mr Traill has expended a 
large sum in buildings, fences, drains, roads, and every thing else 
connected with the improvement of his estate. Freswick is also 
improving of late years. The links, moss, and waste ground, 
where under sheep, have been pasture-drained, which has improv- 
ed the surface much. The parish, with a trifling exception be- 
twixt Dunnet and Brough, is well provided with roads, and is ra- 
pidly improving, and there is little doubt of its continuing to do 
so, till its whole resources are called out ; and, however the occu- 
pations of the population may be changed, capital is only wanted 



DUNNET. 45 

to employ and give subsistence to more people than it contabs at 
present. 

The principal tenants have, in general, leases of from fourteen to 
twenty^ne years. The smaller are at will, but are seldom re- 
moved so long as they pay their rents, or conduct themselves with 
propriety, unless to make way for some other arrangement; and 
in that case they are generally provided with a possession else*- 
where. 

Quarries. — Dunnet-Head affords excellent freestone for all 
building purposes, besides mill-stones, rollers, gate-posts, &c. 
The demand is limited, and the rent about L. 10 yearly. The 
other parts of the parish are well supplied with quarries for build- 
ing, making roads, fences, and drains ; and in one case there is a 
tolerable quarry for pavement, which is at present working on Mr 
Traill's estate of Inkstack, which pavement is sawn in the edges, 
and wrought up to be fit for exportation to London, at a consider 
rable expense, affording profitable employment to a number of 
people. 

Fisheries. — The salmon are kitted in the usual way, and sent 
to London. The cod and ling are sometimes sold as mud-fish in 
winter; in spring and summer they are dried. 

Gross Amount of Raw Produce. — 

10,000 quarters oats and bear, at L.l, . • * L. 10,000 

Hay, turnips, and potatoes, . . ... 4,000 

Pasture of all kinds, ... ... 1,500 

Fisheries, excluidTe of herrings taken at Thurso and Wiok, . 400 

Quarries, . ... . ; . • 200 

T. 16.100 

Manufactures. — Formerly, a quantity of kelp was burned along 
the shore. It has been discontinued for some years, not paying 
the expense of manufacture. A number of females are employed 
in winter making herring nets, and working straw plait ; but neither 
affords above 4d. per day. The growing of flax and making of 
linen has also been discontinued in a great measure ; and from 
there being no other employment, except a little woollen cloth for 
home wear, females are not well employed in the winter season. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market'ToumSf 8fc. — Thurso and Wick are the market-towns. 
There is nothing that can be called a village in the parish. Thur<* 
so is nine miles from Dunnet church. A sub-office to Thurso 
was established in 18S9. There is no post-office at present. 
It is hoped this grievance will soon be remedied. There 



46 TAITHNEKS-SHIRK. 

is one good and safe harbour at HaiD, built at Mr Traill'^ 
expense. There are three landing places for boats at Dunnet, 
Brough, and Scarffskerry. A slip has been built at Brougb, at 
the expense of the Commissioners for Northern Lights, for land- 
ing their stores. Here a good harbour could be formed. Nothing 
has been done at Dunnet or Scarffskerry to aid nature. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is inconveniently si- 
tuated, being nearly at the western extremity of the parish, and 
distant about seven miles from the most easterly point But the 
few inhabitants in that remote quarter are near the church of 
Bower, and very seldom attend at Dunnet. The great bulk of 
the population are within four miles of the church. The church 
is an ancient building, was repaired in 1837, and an aisle added. 
It is now a comfortable and commodious edifice, capable of con* 
taining 700 sitters. The manse is in indifferent repair, and the 
oflBces ruinous. The glebe contains eight acres, besides the gar* 
den and the site of manse and offices, and is worth L. 12 yearly. 
The stipend is 1 12 bolls of oatmeal, 81 quarters, 4 bolls, 1 peck, 
1 gallon, 1^ quart bear, and L. 8^ 6s. 8d. of money. The liv- 
ing is in the gift of Sir James Colquhoun. The number of com-* 
municants is nearly 200, of whom 58 are male heads of families; 
There are a few Dissenters in the parish. Burghers, Anabaptists, 
and Methodists, — not exceeding 40 of all these persuasions. 

The average amount of church collections from Whitsunday 
1830 to Whitsunday 1836 was L. 10, 16s. lid. annually. From 
Whitsunday 1836 to Whitsunday 1837, they were only L. 6, 6s. 
2d., in consequence of the church being under repair. 

Education, — There are in the winter season, four schools in 
the parish besides the parochial school, supported by private sub- 
scription. The salary of the parish school is the maximum, 
amounting to L. 34, 4s. 4 jd. The school fees are moderate and 
ill paid. The salary, fees, &c. may amount to L. 45 per annum. 
Reading, writing, and arithmetic are principally taught in all the 
schools. The parochial schoolmaster teaches the higher branches 
of educiition. The people are quite alive to the value of educa- 
tion ; but, for the most part, can only send their children to school 
during the winter months, which prevents there being many good 
scholars. All, however, are taught to read and write, and have 
been so for many years. There is a hew school erected by Mr 
Traill in a centrical part of the parish, to which the Education 



DUN NET. 4 1 

Committee of the General Assembly has appointed a teacher with 
a salary of L.20 per annum^ and which will be of great bene6t« 

Friendly Society. — There Is one Friendly Society in theparish, 
but it has been prodoctive of no obvious advantages. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is about 100. The sum allotted to each 
of the greater part of them is a few shillings twice in the year. 
The more necessitous are supplied more liberally. 

The lands of Hollandmaik in the parish, were purchased in 
18d5 for the poor, at the price of L. 630, yielding a clear rent of 
about L. 25 per annum. There is also an annuity of L. 5, lis. 
1 ^^gd. payable from the estate of Freswick, and interest of L. 300 
capital, at 4^ per cent. L. 13, 10s. which, with the collections, 
say L. 10, 16s. lid., make a sum of L. 54, 18s.* From this sum is 
to be deducted L. 4, 1 Os., the interest of L. 1 00, appropriated by 
the donor, the late George Oswald, Esq. of Scotston, for paying 
the school fees of those children whose parents are unable|to pay, 
which leaves the sum of L. 52, 13s. for annual distribution. 
There are no poor rates. With few exceptions, those among whom 
the poor funds are divided, are objects of charity ; old and infirm 
people, who have no iamilies to help them ; widows with weak fa- 
milies, and the like. There is no general disposition to take pa- 
rochial relief where they have other means to rely on, such as as- 
sistance from children or relatives. 

Fairs. — There are four iairs or markets held in the parish an- 
nually for the sale of cattle, horses, sheep, &c., viz. one at Dun- 
net, first Tuesday of April, and the great market at the same place, 
on Tuesday, after 15th August, old style, which lasts two days, 
and is well attended. There is another on the first Tuesday of 
October, old style ; and the Reaster market, third Tuesday of 
October, old style. 

Fuel, — The fuel used is nearly altogether peats : it is of 
easy access, and good quality. The expense of it is not easily as- 
certained. A large cart load sells for 2s. Coals are imported 
at the neighbouring harbour of Castlehill, but little is used. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The arable land, by last Statistical Account, was 1600 Scots, 

or 2000 imperial acres ; it is now upwards of 5000 acres : the rent 

was then L.950, it is now about L.d600. The system of ploughing 

with oxen and horses, three and four abreast, has been dicontinued ; 

* The collections since the church wm repaired, L.13, 17s. lid. per annum. 



48 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

iron ploughs and two horses being in general use. The pernicious 
system of servitude is abolished. Wages of labour of all kinds are 
more than doubled. The population was then (1791) 1399, it is 
now 1906, — certainly enjoying more comfort than at that period, 
and doing a vast deal more business. The houses also, with a 
few exceptions, have been much improved : in many cases, com- 
fortable cottages have been erected. 

The improvement which the parish is susceptible of, has already 
been pointed out. There is certainly a want of employment for fe« 
males within doors ; perhaps the growth of flax and the working of it 
as in Flanders, might be of use to remedy this evil. There are also 
a number of small tenants at a distance from the sea, who would be 
better employed as labourers, and the land they possess would be 
more productive under a different system. Seeing the climate for^ 
bids the cultivation of the more valuable grains, wheat, barley, 
beans, and pease, (of all which the soil produces great crops, but 
they only ripen well in favourable seasons, and are not for a man 
to meddle with who has a rent to pay,) — the attention of the far- 
mer should be turned to grass, turnips, bear, and oats, which are 
produced, where well cultivated, in abundance. He should be ac- 
tive in rearing and feeding cattle and sheep for the southern mar- 
kets, which, now from the introduction of steam navigation, can 
be sent as cheap in a few hours by sea, as they could be driven by 
land in a month, some years ago. Thus, by increasing the ex- 
.ports of the parish, and getting money in return, its cultivation 
may be still farther extended and improved, and the quantity of 
labour increased, which is the only sure means of adding to the 
happiness and comfort of the labouring classes in a rural commu- 
nity. 

October 1840. 



PARISH OF WATTEN. 

PRE8BTT£RT OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER GUNN, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The etymology of the name Watten is UDcertaiiL 
Some have supposed it to be a Danish word, signifying water^ and 
to have derived its application from the circumstance of this pa- 
rish containing the largest lake in the county. 

Extent^ Sfc. — The parish extends in extreme length from north- 
east to south-west about 10 miles, and in extreme breadth from 
north-west to south-east about 7 ; and its superficial contents may 
be reckoned in square miles at from 60 to 65. It is surrounded 
on the north, east, south, and west, by the parishes of Bower, 
Wick, Latheron, and Halkirk, respectively ; the boundaries or di- 
viding lines, however, cannot with propriety be called natural, but 
are, generally speaking, wholly conventional. 

Its figure, making allowance for some considerable irregulari- 
ties, may be called rhomboidal. Its surface is in general extreme- 
ly level, the principal irregularities deserving rather the name of 
undulations than of hills. The valleys are consequently of very in- 
considerable depth, with the exception of that which forms the 
basin of the principal lake. Its range is from north-west by west, 
to south-east by east, and the adjoining ground rises with a very 
trifling acclivity. The medium elevation of its bottom above the 
level of the sea is thirty feet. There are various glens in the 
southern part of the parish, but of small size, forming the chan- 
nels of rivulets which have their sources in wet moorland grounds. 
Their forms are exceedingly irregular, their connections at an ave- 
rage angle of 80% and their differences in point of elevation very 
inconsiderable. 

Meteorology, — Under this head, little can be said either inte- 
resting or important. The average temperature of the atmosphere 
seems to differ little from that of the middle districts of the east 

CAITHNESS. D 



60 CAITHNESS-SHIUE. 

coast of Scotland, at least, where the country is unsheltered by 
hills. There is generally an excess of cloudy and foggy weather 
in the end of spring, beginning of summer, and end of autumn. 
The average quantity of rain is flaoderate, although occasionally, 
in autumn, it is such, that, for a considerable period, the streams 
• are swollen beyond their ordinary limits, and the adjacent grounds 
under water. 

Climate. — ^.The climate is subject to very great vicissitudes, and 
the prevalent distempers, which are colds, inflammation of the 
throat, and other organs, (the latter more rarely), rheumatism, &c. 
unquestionably originate in the rapid alternations of heat and cold, 
drought and moisture. The parish is also sometimes, but npt very 
frequetitly, visited by the usual epidemic diseases. There is sel- 
dom a long continuance of dry weather until near the summer 
solstice, and comparatively little dew falls until that period, when 
the nights are generally clear and calm. The prevailing winds 
are easterly, except during the months of June, July, August, and 
September, when the excess of wind ranges from south-east to 
west. The most violent gales are always from north by west 

Hydrography, — The springs are all perennial, and of a tempe- 
rature not very different from the annual average of the atmosphere ; 
their magnitude is generally inconsiderable, their water pure and 
colourless, (with a few exceptions, which are powerful chalybeates ;) 
and the rocks from which they flow, excepting two or three, in- 
stances of secondary limestone, are clay-slate. The parish con- 
tains two lakes, those of Watten and Toftingall, the first extend- 
ing in length 3 miles, and in its greatest breadth about 1|, con- 
taining 840 imperial acres, with an average depth of 10 feet, and 
surrounded by gently rising ground, generally in the highest state 
*of cultivation ; the other being about 5 miles in circumference, 
with an average depth of perhaps 8 feet, and surrounded by bleak 
dismal moors. Each of these lakes contributes its stream to the 
river of Wick, the channel by which the numerous rivulets having 
their source in the moorland grounds find their way to the ocean. 
The direction of these streams is generally northerly, until they 
arrive at the river of Wick, when it becomes east by south, with a 
small velocity. They vary much in length, and the course of the 
longest does not exceed 10 miles, including 2 miles of the river 
of Wick within the boundaries of this parish. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — A very characteristic geological fea- 
ture of this parish, and a feature that belongs more or less to the 

4 



WATTE N. 51 

county generally, is the remarkably horizontal position of the 
strata. In a great many cases, there is not the slightest dip or 
inclination perceptible ; and when this does appear, the average 
angle does not exceed 10**. The strata are almost universally in- 
tersected by minute fissures, perpendicular, and often rectilineal, 
the principal of which seem to run from east to west ; these again 
are met, but not traversed, by others, often at right angles. Tra- 
versing veins are rare, and in no instance do they exceed an inch 
in thickness. In one part of the parish, they are met with running 
generally from north-east to south-west, composed of gypsum, and 
in some instances of felspar, and met in a very irregular manner 
by minute fissures. It is in this district that the greatest inclina- 
tion is found, as well as the greatest derangement of the strata. 

The rocks are composed entirely of flagstone slate or clay-slate, 
with two orthree very trifling exceptions, consisting of limestone and 
whinstone, the former occurring perhaps not more than twice, in small 
quantity, and the latter hardly oftener. All these rocks appear to be 
of the secondary order, and although, from the limited observations 
which it has hitherto been possible to make, it cannot be deci- 
sively stated, yet there is reason to think that the clay-slate gene- 
rally is superimposed over a bed of limestone, and has an average 
thickness of from 10 to 20 feet or upwards. Few or none of the 
simple minerals seem to have been met with imbedded in rock, 
but the beds of the rivulets are frequently strewn with the usual 
debris of primitive rocks, such as small pieces of granite containing 
minute portions of garnet and schorl, fragments of mica schist, 
quartz, &c. 

Among the alluvial deposits covering the solid rocks, we may 
mention first those occurring along, the course of the streams. 
Where the water has worn out for itself a deep channel, and a 
perpendicular section of the bank is presented, these deposits are 
seen frequently to consist of alternate horizontal layers of clay, 
light-coloured towards the surface, and darker as it descends, and 
coarse gravel, composed, as that in the beds of the water-courses 
generally is, of clay-slate, porphyry, sandstone, white and red, 
quartz, mica, and occasionally bog iron-ore. These layers of 
gravel rarely exceed 3 feet in depth, those of clay often occur 
with a depth of from 8 to 16 feet, containing disseminated por- 
tions of rock of various sizes. By far the most general, indeed 
the universal alluvial deposit resting on the rocks elsewhere is clay, 
hard, tenacious, of a bluish colour, and containing in greater or less 



62 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

quantities gravel and pieces of rock imbedded. This clay occurs 
in quantity underneath a layer of peat in several places 16 feet in 
depth. Superimposed upon this sort of clay is often found another 
of a yellowish colour, less tenacious and in smaller quantity. 
Marl occurs pretty extensively in the bed of the principal lake, 
but rarely elsewhere. It does not exceed 4 or 5 feet in depth, 
and is generally covered with several feet of mud. Bog iron-ore 
occurs in various places, generally in dry, clayey moorland ground, 
but only scattered over the surface. Of peat there is a very great 
quantity, varying in depth from a few inches to 16 or 20 feet, and 
always resting on a bed of clay. It contains, as is usual, immense 
quantities of wood, oak, birch, and pine : very large pine trunks 
are frequently found, being sometimes met with even at the depth 
o{ 16 feet, with the bark and wood apparently quite entire, very 
light, and highly inflammable. The bark is generally of a silvery 
gray colour, and the wood dark-brown. Here chiefly occur horns 
of deer, and the very few other remains of animals that have been 
hitherto discovered. 

The soil is generally composed of a clayey loam, in which the 
clay preponderates, with an average depth of from one to two feet, 
and naturally wet, from the very retentive nature of the subsoil. 
Though the soil is now much improved by draining, the only other 
varieties occur in the low flats adjacent to the water courses, which 
are composed of sand and other alluvial matters, and in the moor- 
land districts where the peat predominates over the clay. Boulders 
are not unfrequent in the first mentioned soil ; they rarely exceed 
two or three feet in diameter, and are composed of granite, lime- 
stone, whinstone, sandstone, &c. but most frequently of porphyry. 

II. — Civil History. 

Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are. Sir Ralph A. An- 
struther, Bart, of Balcaskie; William Home, Esq. of Stirkoke; 
William Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick ; Sir P. M. B. Thriepland of 
Fingask; Major- General William Stewart of Strath, &c. 

Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers have been regu- 
larly kept since 1701, and are not very voluminous. 

Antiquities, — There are numerous remains of Pictish houses^ 
apparently similar in every respect to those elsewhere found, but 
in such a state of ruin that nothing material appears which has 
not been already often noticed. In one part of the parish, there 
still exist what are supposed to be the remains of a Druidical cir- 
cle, in a beautiful natural amphitheatre, covered with verdant turf, 



WATTEN. 53 

appearing to have been at all times destitute of wood, as the places 
of Druidical worship were, and situated in the midst of moors, once 
the site of seemingly boundless forests. There exist many tradi- 
tions in the parish relative to the incursions of the Danes, and con- 
flicts of the clans, but altogether so vague, and unauthenticated 
by positive evidence, as to be wholly unworthy of notice. 

IIL — Population. 
The only existing data from which an estimate can be formed 

of the ancient state of the population of the parish are the regis- 
ters of births and marriages. The average amount which the regis- 
ter of somewhat more than a century back gave is about 3000 
inhabitants, or nearly triple the present number. The amount 
of population by the census of 1811 was 1109; by that of 1821, 
1158; and by that of 1831, 1234. It is believed that since 1831 
the population has decreased, chiefly from the great size of some 
of the farms, the introduction of sheep, &c. There is no 
town or village in the parish. The yearly average of births 
for the last seven years is 32, of marriages, 8. There are no re- 
sident heritors in the parish. The number of proprietors of land 
of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards is 7. The number of fa- 
milies, 241 ; of houses inhabited, 241 ; of houses uninhabited, 9; 
number of blind, 1 . 

Habits of the People^ Sfc. — In the language generally spoken, in 
the habits of the people as to cleanliness, and in the style and man- 
ner of their dress, a remarkable improvement has taken place 
within the last forty years. They appear on the whole to enjoy a 
reasonable degree of comfort and contentment, are distinguished 
for industry and economy, and their general character may 
be inferred from the fact, that crimes requiring the cognizance of 
the civil power are so rare as to be almost unheard of. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — As nearly as can be estimated, the number of acres 

standard imperial measure in the parish, which are either cultivated 
or occasionally in tillage, is about 5500. Supposing the contents 
of the parish to be sixty square miles, or 38,400 acres, the num- 
ber of acres constantly waste, or in pasture, will be about 33,000, 
composed in many parts of deep flow-moss, and, with the ex- 
ception of some small green patches along the banks of the streams, 
generally of little use as pasture. It is unsound for sheep, of 
which stock very few indeed have of late years been kept by the 



54 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

smaller teDants, whose fiirms are, in general, adjoining to the 
above-mentioned moss ground. 

By a calculation, as accurate as circumstances admit of, it ap« 
pears that there are upwards of 5000 acres presently waste that 
might be added to the cultivated land of the parish ; and from the 
apparent quality of the soil, as well as the result of experiments 
already made, there is no doubt of their affording in time a fair 
return for the capital employed in bringing them into a productive 
state. 

The commons are all divided, or in process of division, except 
one of no great extent (Kilminster), on the east side of the parish. 

It can scarcely be said there is wood in the parish, except a few 
trees at the old garden of Achingale, which have attained a pretty 
good size. Sir Ralph Anstrutber has planted about an acre at 
Watten ; it was trenched and well drained, has been now planted 
about twelve years, and appears thriving. There seemslittle doubt of 
raising wood by the above process, if it is protected. Hard-wood 
seems to thrive. There are about 10 acres of natural copse at 
Scouthil, composed chiefly of dwarf birch, hazel, and quaking- 
ash, but its height is trifling. 

Bent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre is not 
easily ascertained. Enclosed land may be valued at 16s. per acre, 
and the general rent paid by tenants for their whole land, both 
arable and pasture, is at the rate of from 12s. to L.1 per arable 
acre. The pasture b often four times the extent of the arable, 
and there are some tenants not possessing more than 20 acres of 
arable and meadow ground, who have 800 acres of moor pasture. 
A cow's keep throughout the year may be taken at L. 4 on arable, 
and L.2 on waste land. Leicester sheep, of which there are 
some large flocks in this parish, pay about L. 1 a-head ; the sheep 
kept on the moors by small tenants are of little value, and may 
be reckoned at 2s. per head yearly. 

Waffes. — Farm-servants' wages are, for men L. 8 yearly, 6 J bolls 
oatmeal, 2 bolls potatoes,|one chopin of milk daily, with house and fire ; 
for boys less in proportion. Out-door women for the half-year, L. 1, 
15s., 2 bolls meal, milk and potatoes. House servants, L.1, 10s. to 
L.1, 15s. Shearers in harvest, men L.1, lOs. with a stone of 
meal weekly, a few potatoes, and a chopin of milk daily ; women, 
L.1, Is. 13 lbs. oatmeal weekly, potatoes, and half a chopin of 
milk daily, house room and fire. The above for six weeks, or the 
duration of harvest and raising the potatoes* Of ordinary la- 



WATTEN. 55 

bourers, men get from Is. 6d. to Is. 8(1 per day in summer, and 
from Is. 2d. to Is. 4d. in winter; women get 6d* in winter, and 
8d. in summer. Wright's work may be stated at 2s. to 2s. 6d. pef 
day ; blacksmith's the same. Mason work L. 2. per rood of 36 square 
yards. Iron, wood, and leather are about the same prices as in 
other parts of the kingdom. 

Live-Stoclu — The native breed of cattle is an inferior descrip- 
tion of the Highland. breed, generally sleek-skinned and coarsely 
made. In many instances they get to a good size, and the cows 
milk better than the pure Highlanders. There is not sufficient 
attention paid to them in general, and, of course, a considerable pro- 
portion of the cattle stock hi the parish is inferior. The ge- 
neral price of two year old cattle taken off by drovers to the south 
country markets has for the last few years, including the pre- 
sent, ranged from L. 3 to L. 8 each ; the ordinary price of cows 
from L. 5 to L. 11. 

The few sheep kept by the smaller tenants are Cheviots ; bu^ 
being ill-treated, and many of them dying of rot, they generally 
come to very little account 

These remarks are applicable only to the smaller class of farmsy 
on which the old system of husbandry still obtains, which is as 
follows : viz. on the best land, bear after manuring, followed by 
two crops of oats, and this followed in endless succession : on the 
outfield arable, two or three crops of oats, and then five or six 
rest ; a few potatoes and turnips, and a patch of sown grass. The 
number of farms, however, managed after this mode is every year 
decreasing. 

Where a better system obtains, there are, of course, better 
stocks of cattle. A cross with the Teeswater has become very 
general, and seems likely, as agriculture improves, to supersede 
the native breeds. Leicester sheep, and Cheviot crossed with 
Leicester, are reared extensively, thrive well, and equal in weight 
any in the kingdom. Their wool gives great satisfaction in the 
southern markets. 

Improvements.'-^ K great and rapid change to the better has 
taken place in agriculture during the last twenty years. There 
are several very extensive farms in the highest state of cultivatioDy 
thoroughly drained ; some of them to a considerable extent fur- 
row-drained, and enclosed with fences consisting of dry stone dike^ i 
hedge, and ditch. On one of these, the farm of Wester Watten, 
belonging to William Home, Esq. of Scouthel, it is believed that 



M CAITHNESS-SHIRE*. 

th^ro are from twenty to twenty-five miles of fences of this de** 
script ion. 

It nmy be worthy of remark, that, about fifty years ago, the late - 
Sir Robert Anstruther improved the Mains of Watten most ju-« 
diciously, enclosed it with hedges and dikes, built a steadbg on 
it« and laid it out in the best style. The late Mr Home of Lang- 
well wa« the tir$t to follow his example on his property of Wester 
Wallen abov^oiHHdtioned, which, from being almost entirely waste 
and unproductive^ was converted, under the able management of 
Mr Jauxe« l\irYi2^ now mana^ger to Mr Traill of Ratter, into one 
of Iho &ue$(« a$ it certainly k one ol the largest farms in the north 
of Scv^kii^d. What hb uncle did to Wester Watten, Mr Home 
^f ^vuthe)« well known Rnt many years past as the greatest and 
iNKyf< ^Ukvetjs^ilul imi^cover in thb county, has more recently done 
U^ Kii$ (H\>|>crt\ of L^negar, also in this parish ; and Sir R. A. 
Aii$tr\itKec vMf Rilcaskie, th^ principal proprietor in the parish, 
Imk^ ^vr 5^Hiie yvsftrs past, been pursuing a most admirable system 
o«i hW exlenstw^ estates, viz. that of granting, on improving lesses, 
HHxWvwte^ted fimns, regularly subdivided, fenced, and intersected 
by ^hhI roads with all requisite encouragement to the tenantry, 
AS rx>$i>ects draining, manure, comfortable dwelling-houses, &c. 
His tenantry are amply supplied, at a low rate, with marl raised 
by dredging in a small loch adjoining the west end of the parish* 
It is the opinion of many, that, under such circumstances as 
these, the system of moderate-sized farms would eventually prove 
the most advantageous to the landlords in a pecuniary point of 
view, as it certainly would in a moral and economical, both to 
them and to the country at large, being the only means of pre- 
serving a class of men now fast wearing out, and whom the rapid 
extension of sheep-farming threatens in many districts to annihi- 
late altogether — the substantial peasantry of Scotland, the trus- 
tiest bulwark of the aristocracy, and the best defence under Pro- 
yidence of the altar, the throne, and the constitution ; a class of 
men among whom religion, morality, and good order have flou- 
rished more than among any other ; a class who are seldom ap- 
preciated as they should be, and whose services may be most 
needed when they cannot be had. 

A wonderful stimulus has been given to agriculture, and the 
rearing of improved stock in this parish, as well as others in the 
county, by the easy access to the southern markets, opened up 
by steam within these few years, for fat cattle and sheep, a great 



WATTEX. 57 

number of which are now annually shipped to Leith, Newcastle^ 
and London. Great advantages have also followed from the spi- 
rited exertions of the county gentlemen to improve the breed of 
cattle, sheep, horses, &c., by giving annual premiums to the ex- 
hibitors of the best stock* So successful, indeed, have these beed^ 
that this county need not now dread a competition in these mat- 
ters, open to all Scotland, as was amply shown at the Highland 
Society's meeting at Inverness in 1839. 

Produce. — Average gross amount of raw produce raised in the 
parish, as nearly as can be ascertained : — 

Oats, 6500 quarters, at L.1, Is. per quarter, . . L.6825 

Bear, 860 do. at L.I, Ss. per do. . . J204 

Potatoes, 2900 bolls at 10s. per boll, . J400 

Turnips, 300 acres, at L.7 per acre, . 2100 

.-Hay, 30,000 stones, at 6d. per stone, . . 750 

Land in pasture and miscellaneous produce, . 700 

Total yearly value of raw produ«r, . L.I 2,97 9 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market- Tbtrn.— There are no market or other towns in the pa- 
rish. The nearest market-town is Wick, distant eight miles. 

Means of Communication* — The means of communication en- 
joyed by the parish are, one post-oflSce, (at the bridge of Watten), 
being a sub-office to Wick, — twenty miles of turnpike roads, (along 
seven miles of which the mail passes daily, and a carrier twice a- 
week), and various bridges, all of inconsiderable size, excepting two 
at Watten and Dunn. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is very inconveniently 
situated, being distant from the north-east extremity of the parish 
only one mile, and nearly nine miles from the south-west. The 
date of its erection is unknown. It appears from the session re- 
cords to have been repaired in 1714. Since that period, it has 
received several repairs, and was propped with wooden supports 
two years ago. It is in a very bad state. It may accommodate 
from 700 to 800 persons, and the sittings are all free. 1'he 
manse was built in 1778. There is a glebe of 24 acres, worth 
about i5s. per acre, and the amount of stipend is 14 chalders^ 
half meal and half barley, with L. 10 for communion elements. 
There is no Government church. Dissenting, Seceding, Episcopa- 
lian, or Roman Catholic chapel in the parish. There is one mis- 
sionary in the Highland part of it, supported partly by the Royal 
Bounty Committee, and partly by the people ; also, a cate- 
chist. The number of families attending the Established ChurcK 



58 CAITHNBSS-SHIRE. 

is Dearly equal to the number of families in the parish^ and the 
church is generally full. The average number of communicants is 
about 120. There is one society in the parish — a Bible, Jewish, 
and Missionary Society, The average yearly collections for reli- 
gious purposes are about L. 25, and for charitable L. 20* 

EducaiiorL — The number of schools in the parish is 8^ of which 
one is parochial, one endowed by the Greneral Assembly's Educa- 
tion CommitteiB, and one supported by fees. The parochial 
schoolmaster has the maximum salary of L. 84. He is obliged 
from age to have an assistant, who receives the fees, averaging 
Li 12, and occasional donations from the heritors. The general 
expense of education is, for reading. Is. 6d. or 2s. ; writing and 
arithmetic, 6d. each additional per quarter, Latin, 5s. Poor 
children are taught gratis at the parochial' and General Assem- 
bly's schools. There are no children upwards of six years of age 
who are not in course of learning reading, writing, and arith- 
metic Some aged persons there are, who cannot read, but the 
number of these is exceedingly small. The people universally 
are much alive to the benefits of education, and two additional 
schools are required which they are unable regularly to maintain. 

A parochial library has been established this year, which al« 
ready possesses upwards of 300 volumes ; there are also two Sab- 
bath schools very efficiently taught, and numerously attended. 

Friendly Society. — Under this head there is nothing to parti- 
cularize excepting a Friendly Society instituted in 1819, for the 
purpose of aiding its members when sick, and their widows after 
their decease. It is sufficiently desirable in this point of view, 
but in other respects its advantages are not very obvious. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average of persons receiving 
parochial aid is 35, and the average sum given to each 15s. per 
annum. The average sum at the disposal of the kirk-session for 
all parochial purposes, is about L. 34, of which L. 20 arise from 
church collections, the remainder being the interest of legacies, 
and sums collected many years ago by fines, and economy in the 
distribution of the funds. There is no other regular mode of pro- 
curing funds for the poor. There are none unemployed who are 
able and willing to work, and there are none so destitute as not to 
have a cottage, plenty of fuel, and a spot of ground for cabbages 
and potatoes. 

Fairs. — ITie following are held in the parish, for the sale of 
horses, cattle, sheep, and other stock, for hiring servants, and 



OLRICK. 59 

other purposes of markets generally. 1. Roodsmass, on the first 
Tuesday of May, (old style) ; 2. Roodsmass, on the third Tues- 
day of September, O. S. ; di Wester Market, on the last Tue8<« 
day of October; 4. Magnusmass, on the last Tuesday of De- 
cember. Also three cattl^trysts, on the first Mondays of July, 
August, and September, on the Hill of Backless. 

/nn^.— There are 4 of these, being three more than the public 
accommodation requires. They receive almost no countenance 
from the people of the parish. 

r FueL — The fuel almost universally used is peat or turf, pro- 
cured from the peat-bogs, with which the parish abounds, at an 
expense of about 6d. per cart load, exclusive of carriage. 

October 1840. 



PARISH OF OLRICK. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. WILLIAM MCKENZIE, MINISTER. 



I. — ToPOC^RAPHY AND NATURAL HlSTORY. 

Name."— The word Olrich (or Olrig), is of Norwegian deri- 
vation, and may be interpreted ^^ the son of Erick :" it was ap- 
plied to this parish in allusion to a settlement made by soma 
chief of that name on. this part of the coast, about the end of 
the eighth or the beginning of the ninth century, when an inva* 
sion of this northern part of the kingdom is supposed to have taken 
place. 

Extent — The length of the parish from north-west to south-east 
is 5 miles, its medium breadth 3 miles: and it contains 15^ 
square miles, or about 10,000 imperial acres. It is bounded on the 
west, east, and south by the parishes of Thurso, Dunnet, and 
Bower, — and the sea is the boundary on the north. 

Soil and Produce. — The soil throughout the parish may 
be considered good ; and as improvements in agriculture are car- 
ried on, on the most approved plans, perhaps there is not a parish 
in the north of Scotland where better crops of all kinds of useful 
produce are raised. There is abundance of marl in the parish, 



60 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

which, along with sand aild sea*weed, afford every facility in the 
way of manure. The common of Hilliclay being now divided 
and enclosed by the respective proprietors, and fast yielding to 
cultivation, very little of the parish can be considered as unfit for 
husbandry, and what is not already under cultivation, affords ex-^ 
cellent pasture for young cattle and sheep, — of the latter of which 
there is a large increase of late years, and that of the best de- 
scription. 

Minerals^ Sfc. — Limestone and freestone, slates and flags abound 
in the parish* 

In the raising of stone for pavement much has been done for 
some years back. The finest quality of this is found on the pro- 
perty of Mr Traill of Ratter, the stratification being so very regu- 
lar and plane, that it answers admirably for streets, without any 
surface dressing. The layers are from three-quarters of an inch 
to five inches thick and upwards in the quarry ; the colour of the 
stone from a smoke-gray to blue. This stone is very hard, and 
exceedingly strong and durable. Some of the oldest houses in 
Caithness are roofed with it, and it has been employed with 
advantage for granary floors, being laid on joists at the ordinary 
distance, in the upper as well as low flats of buildings. The 
inhabitants of London, Newcastle, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and 
other towns are now reaping the benefit of pavement exported 
from this parish. At Castlehill, machinery is employed in 
sawing the edges and polishing the surface of the stone, which 
is now used in this prepared form for lobby floors, tables, hearth- 
stones, and mantel-pieces, and other purposes within doors. Up- 
wards of 100 labourers are constantly eniployed, and numerous 
cargoes of this useful commodity are exported every season ; the 
proprietor having erected a neat and commodious harbour for 
his own use, has now the pleasure and advantage of seeing his 
own and other vessels coming in and going out in safety in the 
immediate neighbourhood of his mansion-house, — the tonnage re- 
quired being from 3000 to 4000, and the annual shipment of pave- 
ment alone being from 300,000 to 400,000 square feet. 

On the estates of Olrig and Murkle, there are also quarries of 
slate and flag of good quality. 

The line of sea coast belonging to this parish is not more than 
two miles from east to west. At the extremities of this line are 
the bays of Castlehill and Murkle, both abounding with fish of 
every kind peculiar to the coast, soughl after (with the exception 



OLRICK. 61 

4 

of the salmon-fishing, lei to a respectable tenant), now only by thp 
labourers as a recreation from other work, and for the use of their 
families. 

Allusion has been already made to the harbour at Castlehill ; 
and it is much to be regretted that no steps have been taken for 
having a harbour also erected in the bay of Murkle, which is so 
well adapted for the purpose, and which would afibrd shelter to 
vessels in distress, or retarded in their progress by contrary winds, 
being almost naturally locked in from the effects of that dangerous 
neighbour, the Pentland Frith, and there being abundance of water 
at all times of tide. 

Lakes. — The only lake, that of Durran, mentioned in the for- 
mer Statistical Account, was drained many years ago, and has 
amply rewarded the proprietors, — the surface of water being now 
exchanged for inexhaustible pits of marl and rich meadow pas- 
ture. 

II. — Civil History. 
Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of these is 1700, since 

which period the record of session, including births and marriages, 

has been regularly kept ; but no record of deaths seems to have 

been kept in this parish at any period. 

Antiquities, — Torfaeus mentions a nunnery, the site of which is 
obviously indicated by the burn of Closters (cloisters), running 
through the farm of Redlands, on the estate of Murkle, and not 
far from a green hillock resembling the Pictish cairns, which 
abound in the county, and of which there are several in this pa- 
rish. 

On the top of the hill of Olrick, on the southern boundary of the 
parish, there are evident remains of a watch-tower, which, in for- 
mer tfmes, must have been of no little importance, from the ex- 
tensive view it commands of the coast and the country round. 
From this spot the bays of Sandside, Scrabster, Dunnet, Freswick, 
and Reiss, Dunnet-head, the hills of Canisbay and Noss-head, all 
in this county, together with some of the islands of Orkney, and 
also some of the mountainous parts of Sutherland, Moray, Banff, 
and Aberdeen shires are visible, — affording one of the most exten- 
sive and finest views to be found in this northern part of the country. 

On the boundary of the parish on the east, towards Dunnet, 
it is said there existed a church, the position of which is as- 
certained by the name of St Coomb's Kirk (perhaps in honour 
of St Columba), being still given to the spot; and there is a 
farther tradition, that this church and the adjoining manse^ su^- 



62 CAITHNESS*SHIUE. 

posed to have been the parish church and manse x)f the united pa- 
rishes of Dunnet and Olrick, were, in the night season, suddenly 
overwhelmed with sand during the prevalence of a storm, the 'mi- 
nister and his family effecting their escape with difficulty by the 
roof; and it is probable that it was at this period thut the adjoin- 
ing lands of the property of Tain shared the same fete. The dis- 
trict is now known by the name of the Links of Old Tain. 

The only other place in the parish worthy of note is Murkle, 
on the western boundary ; which name is believed to have been ori- 
ginally Mort Hill, or the field of death, applied in allusion to a bat- 
tle fought between the Danes and natives, in which thelatter were 
victorious. It is said that the Scottish chie^ on seeing a lai^ hol- 
low at the head of Murkle Bay filled with the enemy, called out to 
his followers, ^^ clear the den,'' which was responded to with such 
destruction of the invaders, that the place got the name of Clear 
Den, or Clairden, which it bears to this day. 

Land'Otoners. — The only two residing heritors are, James Traill, 
Esq. of Ratter, and James Smith,^ Esq. of Olrig, who have done 
much for the encouragement and comfort of their numerous te- 
nantry. The other non-residing heritors are, the Earl of Caith- 
ness ; Sir John Gordon Sinclair, Bart. ; and the Trustees of the 
late George Miller, Esq., who bequeathed the small property of 
Swarclet for the benefit of the poor of the parish of Thurso. 

III. — Population. 

By Dr Webster's Report in 1755, - 875 souls. 

By Sir John Sinclair's Statistical Account in 1792, 1001 

By GoTemment census in 1821, • • 1093 

By Do. Do. 1831, . . 1146 

And by a census taken up by the present parish minister in 
1835, in order accurately to meet some Government queries, the 
population was found to amount to 1352 souls, composed chiefly 
of farmers, farm-serrants, and labourers. This increase is to be 
attributed to the erection and prosperity of the village of Castle* 
town, (the only one in the parish,) on the property of James Traill, 
Esq. of Ratter, and to the employment and liberal wages through- 
out the year afforded by him to numerous workmen in raising and 
preparing pavement for the southern markets. The number of 
inhabitants in this village, which is rising in importance, from the 
granting of perpetual feus, and several handsome houses being built 
in consequence, may be computed at 320 souls. 

Tlie average of marriages for the last seven years is • 10 

births, do. do. - .32 

deaths, do. do. • 17 
The latter average raised from the effects of small-poz. 



OLllICK. 63 

Id their general character, the people may be stated to be so- 
ber, industrious, inteltigent, and attentive to the outward ordi- 
nances of religion. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture^ Sfc. — The extent of the parish being about .10,000 
acres, 6000 may be reported as cultivated, and the remainder^ 
with the exception of about 500 acres of links and moss, is ca- 
pable of cultivation. 

There are 20 acres under wood on the estates of Castlehill and 
Olrig. The oldest was planted by the present proprietor, James 
Traill, Esq. about fifty years ago, consisting principally of ash, 
plane, elm, oak, mountain-ash, and larch. Some of the trees have 
grown as high as 50 feet The ash seems to thrive the best 
Fir does not succeed. 

Bent. — The rent of arable land varies much, depending in a 
great measure on proximity to the sea-coast Near the sea it may 
be stated at from L. I to L. 1, 5s« per acre; in the interior from 
12s. to 15s. is near the average. The rate of grazing a cow is 
L.2 in summer, and L.1, 10s. for wintering. Keep of a Leicester 
sheep is worth from 15s. to 20s. during the year. 

fFo^e^.^- Farm-servants' wages are, for men, from L.6 to L.8 
in money per annum, with 6^ bolls meal, 2 bolls potatoes, house- 
room, fire, and a chopin of milk daily. Boys less in proportion* 
Out-door women get L.d, 4 bolls of meal, with lodgings, fire, 
milk, and potatoes. House female servants L.d to L.3, 10s. 
yearly. Harvest labourers are engaged for eight weeks. Men 
get L. 1, 10s., and one boll meal, with a chopin of milk daily, and 
a few potatoes; women L.1, and half a boll meal for the harvest, 
with potatoes and a mutchkin of milk daily. Tlie price of la- 
bour has risen considerably within the last two years, from the 
great demand for hands at the stone-works, making roads, fur- 
row-draining, enclosing, &c. and may be stated for common la- 
bourers Is. 6d. per day in winter, and Is. lOd. in summer. Wo- 
men get now pretty generally .6d. a day for turnip-hoeiqg, and 6d. 
in winter for barn-work, pulling turnips, &c« Wrights, masons, 
and blacksmiths get about 2s. 6d. per day. Mason-work of ordi- 
nary wall height and girth measure is done for L.2 per rood of 36 
square yards. Blacksmiths get L.2, 10s. per annum for each pair 
of horses. They uphold the horses' shoes, iron-work of ploughs 
and carts. Saddlers get from L. 1 to L. 1, 5s. for upholding the 
harness of each pair of horses during the year. 



C4 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

Breeds of Live-stock. — The common breed of cattle among the 
proprietors and larger tenants is a cross with the Highland and 
Teeswater, which Mr Traill introduced some years ago. They 
have answered very well, and are a vast improvement compared 
with the old stock. The smaller tenants still keep the old breed, 
an inferior description of highlanders. 

The breed of sheep is the Leicester, which was also introduced 
by Mr Traill eight years ago : it has succeeded beyond expecta- 
tion, both as to weight and the quality of the wool. There are 
now about 1500 sheep of this kind in the parish ; and the num- 
ber is yearly increasing. 

Husbandry. — The husbandry of the parish is of all kinds, from 
the best modern systems to the most antiquated. On the improv- 
ed farms the five and six shift courses are followed. Turnips eat 
off with sheep, and business managed much the same as in the 
southern part of the kingdom. Oa the lands occupied by the 
smaller tenantry (they occupy more than one-half of the parish,) 
the system is continual cropping, or nearly so, viz. bear and oats 
alternately. Numbers are beginning to sow a few turnips and 
grass-seeds ; but there is scarcely as yet any regular rotation in- 
troduced. However, with the great command the parish has of 
manure, viz. marl, sea -weed, and shell-sand, vast quantities of bear 
and oats are raised of good quality — Angus oats generally weigh- 
ing from 40 lb. to 42 lb. per bushel, and bear from 48 lb. to 52 
.lb. A part of the parish ( Murkle) is remarkable for producing 
black oats. They degenerate everywhere else by repeated sowing 
except here ; the consequence of which is, that the whole coun- 
ty take a change of seed of their oats from Murkle. 

The mode of reclaiming waste lands is, — first enclose with ditch 
and thorn hedge, protected with flagsseton edge ; then drain out the 
springs with three feet or four feet drains as required ; plough in and 
allow it to lie a year or more ; lay on marl or shell sand at the rate 
of twenty to twenty-five loads per acre ; then cross plough and 
work it dQwn for turnips with dung, or bone-dust, or both ; feed 
the turnips off with sheep ; then oats, or bear and grass seeds ; 
then pasture with sheep for a few years ; and the land is general- 
ly afterwards fit for any rotation. The quality of the soil being 
good, considerable progress is made and making in thus reclaim- 
ing waste lands. Furrow draining has also been introduced on Mr 
Traill's estate. The effect is wonderful, and the practice will, 
though expensive, in a few years, be common. 



OLRICK. 66 

The principal tenants have in general leases of from fourteen to 
twenty-one years, with stipulations as to propping. The small occu« 
piers are at willf and are wearing out^ — the tendency of the present 
system of improvement being to throw the whole lands into large 
farms. 

Where the farms are large the steadings are substantial and com- 
modious ; slates, flags, and building stones of the best quality be- 
ing abundant ; the fences are also very good, either stone walls or 
hedges protected with flags. On the small ferms the houses are al- 
most wholly built with feal covered ^th divots, — chimneys few 
in number — and fences of a very indifferent description. 

The principal improvements made in the parish have been 
done by James Traill, Esq. of Ratter, and James Smith, Esq. 
of Olrig. The other proprietors are non-resident, and do not 
seem to give much attention to their estates. Mr Traill may well 
be called the author of all improvements in the county ; which a 
single view of his property in this parish, after surveying Caithness, 
will sufficiently testify, either as regards culture, plantations, build- 
ings, harbours, roads, live-stock, or crops ; indeed, what he has ac- 
complished could scarcely be credited as being the work of one in- 
dividual, and is and will be a great example to Caithness proprie- 
tors in all time coming. 

The obstacles to improvements are the state of occupancy by 
small tenants, and the want of capital. 

The rental of the parish is about L. 4000 a year ; L. 50,000 
laid out on buildings, enclosures, roads, and drains, would not do 
more than put the parish into a fair state of cultivation. It is, 
therefore, easily seen that its final improvement must be a work of 
time. The facilities of procuring manure ; the excellent materi- 
als for buildings, enclosures, and drains, got from the refuse of the 
flag quarries, are its great advantages, and will ultimately produce 
great results. The surface is capable of producing more than 
double of what it does at present ; and as a matter of course will 
pay double rent ; there is, therefore, little doubt, that ere long, in 
consequence of easy access to the southern markets by the aid of 
steam-vessels, that capital will find its way to call out the dormant 
and neglected resources of this and every other parish in the coun- 
ty of Caithness. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
The parish is well accommodated with roads. The county 
line, from Thurso to Wick, passes through it, and there is no 

CAITHNESS. E 



66 CA1THNES8-SH1UE. , 

deficiency of cross-roads. There is a daily post between Castle- 
town and Thurso ; and a. regular carrier to Wick. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The present church, conveniently situate4 
for the parish, seems to have been built in 1633, and though fre- 
quently repaired, has never had any addition made to it It has 
never been divided^ nor seated at the expense of the heritors. It 
affords accommodation for only 403 sitters, at 18 inches; and this 
being far below what the increasing population require of seat- 
room, the heritors have lately adopted a very handsome plan 
by Mr David Cousin, architect in Edinburgh, agreeable to which 
a new church is now building, which .will afford the requisite ac- 
commodation, and be a great ornament to the village of Castle- 
town, at the east end of which it is situated. The maqse was built 
about fifty years ago, and along with the offices underwent consider- 
able repairs in 1825. There is a glebe attached to it of 8 Scotch 
acres, which may be valued at L. 10. The amount of stipend is 
14 chalders, half barley and half oatmeal, with L. 8, 6s. dd. for 
communion elements. The number of communicants is 120. 
There is no Dissenting place of worship in the parish ; the num- 
ber of Dissenters is under 100 ; and these belong to the Original 
Seceders, Independents, and Baptists, the great majority of whom 
readily signed a late petition to the Legislature in behalf of the ex- 
tension and endowment of the Established Church. 

Education, — There are one parochial and four other schools in 
the parish. About one* eighth of the population may be comput- 
ed as attending school. 

The salary of the parish teacher is the maximum. All the 
usual branches of a classical and commercial education are 
taught. The fees are moderate, in no case exceeding 7s. per 
quarter, whatsoever branches are taught. The other teachers 
are upon their own adventure. There is not a person in the pa- 
rish above five years of age but who can read, and, with few ex- 
ceptions, also write. The children of such as are in indigent 
circumstances are educated gratuitously. There is a Sabbath 
school, where the youth of both sexes are carefully instructed in 
the principles of the Christian religion. 

Library. — There is a parish library consisting of some hun- 
dred volumes of useful books, of a miscellaneous and religious 
character. 

Friendly Societies. — Of these there are three in the parish, from 

4 



OLRICK. 67 

whicb much benefit has been derived by the aged and infirm, as 
well as by widows and orphans. Allowances are also made for de- 
fraying the funeral expenses of members and their widows. The 
Castletown Society alone, since its commencement in 1797, has 
distributed nearly L. 4000. These Societies have prevented many 
from being on the poor's roll. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is 35, whose circumstances are taken into 
due consideration without any special or fixed sum being allotted. 
There is a mortification of L. 100, left by the late Dr Oswald of 
Scotstown, the interest of which, along with L. 25 of collections, 
and some seat-rents in the church, under the direction of the ses- 
sion, placed at their disposal last year L. 36, 12s. 4d. There is 
no assessment of the heritors. Particular care is taken in the ad- 
mission of parties on the poor roll — ^vagrancy is discouraged — no 
pauper certificate for begging has been granted during the last 
fifteen years — and in various cases, the heritors and parishioners 
have subscribed liberally, in order to prevent families from be- 
coming a permanent burden upon the parish. 

Fairs. — There are three annual fairs held in the parish, in 
March, June, and November, for the sale and purchase of cattle. 

Inns, — There are two in the parish, which are well kept, but 
one would be fully sufficient for the accommodation required by 
travellers. 

Fuel, — Moss is not very abundant in this parish ; but there is 
now an abundant supply of English coal to be had at the village 
of Castletown : it is conveyed in vessels that are constantly ar- 
riving at Castlehill for cargoes of pavement. 

October 1840. 



PARISH OF HALKIRK. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OP SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. JOHN MUNRO, MINISTER- 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The ancient name of this parish was St Fergus and 
St Thomas. It had this name because the pari^sh of St Fergus 
was united to that of St Thomas's soon after or about the time of 
the Reformation. It is very probable that the tract of country 
now known by the name of the parish of Halkirk, or the united 
parishes of Halkirk and Skinnet, contained at some remote period 
more than the two parishes above alluded to : the number of bury- 
ing grounds, and the ruins of several places of worship, afford a 
presumptive proof of this. Some of these, however, are said to 
have been chapelries in the times of Popery. The etymology of 
the modern name, Halkirk, is involved in the greatest obscurity, 
and, as there is no tradition regarding it, the conjectures of ima- 
gination are the only sources from which any thing probable can 
be drawn. 

Extent^ Sfc, — The very irregular figure of the parish makes it 
diflScult to ascertain its real extent. The extreme length is 24 
miles, the breadth varies from 12 to 3 miles. From these const- 
derationsy we may suppose that the parish contains about 90 or 
92 square miles. The parish is bounded on the north by the pa- 
rish of Thurso ; on the north-east and east by the parishes of Bow- 
er and Watten ; on the south and south-west by the parishes of 
Latheron, Kildonan, and Reay ; on the west by Dorrory, a detach- 
ed part of the parish of Thurso ; and on the north- west by the pa- 
rish of Reay. 

Topographical Appearances. — There is neither hill nor moun- 
tain remarkable for height in the parish, except the Spittal hill, 
partly in this parish and partly in the parish of Watten, and about 
three miles south-east from the church of Halkirk. The elevation of 
this hill above the level of the sea is not known ; its height, how- 



HALKIRK. CO 

•ever, is such that the greater part of the county may be seen fronti 
Its summit. From time immemorial till within the last seven or 
eight years, it was customary to have an annual market on the very 
top of this hill. From the name of the market, the Jamesmas^ 
it is evident that it had its origin during the prevalence of Popery 
in Scotland. This market is now held in a place equally centrical 
and far easier of access, and will be afterwards mentioned under 
another head. 

Hydrography. — There is a considerable number of lakes in the 
parish, from twenty-two to twenty-four, including small and great 
The loch of Calder is about d^ miles in length, and from one 
mile to half a mile in breadth. The next in magnitude is Loch- 
more, which differs very little in size from the other. Both these 
lochs have a very pleasing effect on the scenery. In travel- 
ling towards either of them a person does not see them till 
they burst at once on his view, and they form a striking and a 
lively contrast to the moss and the heath with which they 
are surrounded. There are two rivers which pass through the 
parish. By the inhabitants of this parish, the principal of 
these rivers is called the river of Halkirk, but at Thurso, near 
which it enters the sea, it is called the river of Thurso. The 
source of this river is Alltan na cat^ or Cat'sbrook, which is about 
eight miles south-west from Lochmore and in Sutherlandshire. 
Though this brook is considered the source of the river, there are 
several lakes, upwards of twenty, which pour their waters into the 
river. Some of these lakes are in this parish, and some in the 
mountains which divide this county from Sutherlandshire. As 
this river flows through a wide extent of country it receives into 
its channel and discharges into the sea a great quantity of water. 
After much rain or a rapid thaw it overflows its banks, and, du- 
ring the harvest months, has at times done great damage to grass 
and other crops which lie within its range. Its course is nearly 
through the centre of the parish; and, taking into calculation its 
various windings, its length from the source to its junction with 
the sea is from 40 to 50 miles. Th^ other river, that of Forssy, 
divides this parish from Reay on the north-west, and joins the sea at 
Forss, in the parish of Thurso. This river, after great falls of rain, 
comes down in torrents, and does much injury to corn and grass in 
low situations near its course. It is from 15 to 20 miles in 
length. Trout and salmon are taken in both the rivers, and 
trout of various kinds in the lakes. — There are two springs in the 



70 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

parish which may be noticed. Tobair Acraig, the well of Halkirk, 
about a mile south-east from the church, is believed to be medi* 
dual, and partakes of the nature of chalybeate waters^i The other 
is at the north-west end of the Loch of Calder^ and is belieyed by 
the inhabitants in its vicinity to be useful for the cure of diseases. 
It is of the same nature with the one just mentioned. It may be 
observed that marl is found in the Loch of Calder, and that, a 
year or two ago, exertions were made, which are still persevered ipi 
to raise it by meatis of a boat having niachinery attached for the 
purpose. Another loch, that of Leurary, the whple bottom of 
which is a bed of marl, was drained a number of years ago, and 
the loch being now di7, this substance is easily obtained, and is 
found very useful for agricultural purposes. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land'Oumers. — The land-own^rs in this parish are. Sir Greorge 

Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart. M. P. for the county ; Lord Duffus ; 

Sir Patrick M. fi. Thriepland of Fingask and TofUngal, Bart. ; 

James Sinclair, Esq. of Forss ; Charles S. Quthrie, Esq. of Scots 

Calder; Donald Home, Esq. of Langwell ; David Henderson, Esq. 

of Westerdale ; James Smith, Esq. of Olrig ; and Adam Duff, Esq. 

of Banniskirk. None of these except Mr Henderson of Wester- 

dale reside in the parish. 

Parochial Registers. — The old registers of this parish were de*- 
stroyed many years ago by some ill disposed persons. The present 
ones commence with the year 1790. 

Antiquities. — One of the relics of antiquity in this parish is the 
Castle of Brawl. It is situated on the north bank of the river 
Thurso, which flows through the middle of a valley, long and broad, 
commencing to form at the sea, and extending fully twelve miles 
into the interior. A place equidistant from both the extremities 
of this valley, and at which there is a peculiar winding in the 
course of the river, attractive and pleasing to the eye, is the spot 
chosen for this once strong and well forti&ed, but now ruined 
haunt of ancient heroes. Under the general designation, Castle 
of Brawl, are comprehended two distinct buildings, belonging to 
different eras of architecture. The most ancient of these is a 
tower 39 by 86 feet ; and there still remain 35 feet of the height. 
The walls are 9 feet thick ; and in the centre of the east wall is 
formed a stone stair leading to the very top of the building. In 
the walls there are several recesses 2 feet and 2 feet 8 inches in 
breadth, which may contain two or three persons in a standing po- 



HALKIRK. 71 

sitioD. These recesses diminish gradually both in height and 
breadth towards the outside of the wall^ and each of them ends in 
a narrow opening, which appears to have admitted all the light 
which found an entrance to this gloomy abode of the heroes of 
battle and of rapine. These openings seem also to have been ca)* 
culated as convenient positions from which those within the castle 
could shoot at such of their foes as dared attack them in this fkst^ 
ness, which, before the invention of gunpowder, must have been of 
considerable strength* There are other recesses in the walls, not 
unlike small rooms, 5, 6, 7, and 8 feet long, by 3, 4, and 5 broad, 
and 6^9 7, and 8 feet high. On the ground floor in the north 
side there is a strongly built dismal hole, 10 or 12 feet by 4^, and 
about the same height with those already mentioned. It is cover* 
ed with massy stones, and must from its appearance have been a 
place either of concealment or of imprisonment The whole su* 
perstructiire is of a hard durable species of stone found in the vi«> 
cinity. On the north-»west side of the tower there is a fosse, 6 feet 
deep, and about 20 broad, which protected it on that side, and the 
river afforded it some defence on the other. The other building in 
ruins, or rather the commencement of a more spacious and com« 
modious castle, projected on a more elegant plan, belongs to a 
more improved era of architecture, and is of a modern date com* 
pared to the tower. The front height of this ruin varies from 12 
to 15 feet. The building is erected on a bank elevated 6 or 7 
feet above the bed of the river, and looks towards the east, on 
which side, and within a very short distance thereof, the river flows 
with a murmuring hum over a rough stony channel. AH that 
seems to have been built of this well projected and pleasantly si- 
tuated castle is the ground floor, 100 feet in length by 50 in 
breadth, divided into six vaults, four of which have two port-holes 
in each ; and there is one in each end of a passage which runs be- 
twixt the end and the centre vaults. The diameter of these port- 
holes varies from 3^ to 4^ inches. Each vault has a door com- 
municating with the passage just mentioned, and to each end of 
which there is a stair descending from the back of the building. 
The dimensions of these vaults are 16 and 17 feet square, by 12 
in height Some of them have small windows 1^ feet by 1 foot 
All the light admitted into two of them enters through a very nar- 
row opening above the port-holes. By whom and at what period 
the tower was built and inhabited, and by whom the more modem 
building was commenced and so far carried on, are questions not 



72 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

easily soWed. Some say that the former was inhabited by a su(> 
cession of the Bishops of Caithness and Sutherland, and that the 
latter, so far as it was finished, was the work of one of these bi- 
shops The only foundation for this lame tradition is a story, quite 
a true one, that one of the bishops who occupied the see was 
burnt by some lawless miscreants in his castle of Halkirk. There 
is no reason for confounding Halkirk with Brawl, as they are on 
opposite sides of the river. The place where the horrid de^ was 
perpetrated was a residence which the bishops had on the Hal- 
kirk bank of the river, opposite the Castle of Brawl. There is 
no vestige of a ruin to point out where the bishop's residence 
stood. It is probable, however, it was in a field to the north-east 
•of the present manse, where the parochial ministers had their re- 
sidence till the present house was built. The total removal <^ 
every stone of this building has obliterated the memory of its ex- 
istence. This has been the means of ascribing to the bishops the 
ruins which remain ; it has been the means of placing them in a 
tower over which they never had any control; and of fathering 
on their invention and power a project which never owed its form 
or its existence either to their wealth or to their contrivance. The 
more probable opinion is, that the Castle of Brawl was a residence 
of the Harolds and Sinclairs, who were Earls of Caithness, the 
former at a very early period, and the latter ever since the Ha- 
rolds lost the title. At Brawl there is an extensive garden, by 
far the most ancient in the county, belonging to the family of Ulb- 
ster, which, notwithstanding its northern latitude, and its being ra- 
ther neglected, produces considerable quantities of fruit, and in 
and around it stand chestnut, ash, and elm trees, of good size 
both in height and circumference. 

There was also a castle on the rugged crag of Dirlot, said to 
have been inhabited by a bold and daring freebooter of the name 
of Sutherland, a near relation of the Dunrobin Sutherlands, whose 
lands of Dylrid and Cattak were forfeited for treason, and given 
to M*Kay of Strathnaver by charter, dated at Inverness, 4th 
November 1489. The rock of Dirlot is said to have been sur- 
rounded at one time by the river, and accessible only by a draw- 
bridge. The nature of the ground gives some countenance to 
this tradition ; but now the river flows entirely on one side of the 
crag, on whose summit the gray remains of the castle are to be 
seen. There was also a place of defence, and of no small im- 
portance, at the north corner of Lochmore, where the river issues 



HALKIRK. 73 

from that lake. There was another at the east end of the Loch 
of Calder. These relics of towers, castles, and forts, are the only 
monuments remaining of the wealth and the power of the chief- 
tains of days that are gone ; these are the only remnants of their 
possessions ; the only indications of their greatness. The fame 
of their possessors is not recorded in story : if the bard ever sung 
of their valour ; if tradition for a while spoke of their achievements 
in war, or commended their heroism in the day of battle, the 
song of the one is no longer sung in the hall, and the tongue of 
the other is for ever silent. If a little green hill, or three gray 
stones did for years point out the tomb of their rest, they are now 
thoughtlessly trodden upon by a race to whom their names and 
their deeds are alike unknown. If a rude unsculptured pillar 
marked out the spot or the field where they fell, it stands on a 
lonely moor, or the side of a barren hill, without a name engraved 
either by tool or tradition. 

There are also some remains of ecclesiastical antiquity. Of 
these are the relics of St Thomas's Chapel at Skinnet Here 
was left to stand the sacred chair of St Thomas, of exquisite 
workmanship in stone, an object of some curiosity ; it may be of 
superstitious veneration, till broken down and used in building a 
fence. Within the walls of the chapel which still remain, as well 
as in the ground around, a few continue to bury their dead. There 
was another of these chapels at Banniskirk, of which there are no 
remains ; its stones have been removed, and the silent mansions 
of the dead, by which it was surrounded, have been ploughed up, 
and added to an adjoining field ! 

A third of these ruined chapels, St Magnus, said to have been 
founded by the same individual who was the originator and the 
bene&ctor uf the Kirkwall Cathedral, is at a place called Spittal. 
It appears to have been 60 feet by 20, and the walls, though in a 
dilapidated condition, have been left to decay under the slow 
but sure process of the blasting elements, and the demolishing 
progress of time ; and no views of expediency have induced the 
proprietor of the lands on which it is built to increase his re- 
venues by demolition and sacrilege ; nor has the occupant of the 
farm, in the centre of which it stands, so for forgotten the reve- 
rence due to the mighty dead, as to enlarge his fields by disturb- 
ing their repose, scattering their ashes, and exposing their bones 
to the bleaching influence of sun and of rain. Here was the ce- 
metery of the clan Gunn, at one time a powerful and a warlike 



74 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

race, who inhabited the mountainous parts of this cotiiity, as well 
as the Kildonan district of the Sutherland county, and who, not- 
withstanding the high mountains, the many mosses and morasses 
which intervene to render the journey tedious and laborious, are 
said to have carried their dead, especially the remains of their 
chiefs and principal men, from the glens of the Crask and Knock- 
finn, in order to be interred in the Chapel of SpittaL There was, 
besides, the Chapel of St Peter at Olgnimore, that of St Columba 
at Dirlot, and that of St Ciran in Strathm6re« These last bear 
the names of the early propagators of Christianity in Scotland ; 
but whether built in their time, or by others in honour of them 
after their day, is a subject that must for ever remain in doubt. 
If the pure doctrines of Christianity were for a time declared in 
these ancient places of worship, it is certain, that during the dark 
ages they were the temples of idols and their superstitious wor- 
shippers. In proof of this, it is traditionally reported, that a band 
of marauders made the image of St Ciran the butt of their arrows, 
and thus for their own amusement destroyed the last of the dumb 
idols worshipped in this part of the country. Of the Clachans of 
Gerston and Achardale, little remains except the name, and the 
jcertainty that each of them contains the ashes of the dead. It is 
evident from this enumeration of ruined chapels, whatever was 
the quality of the instruction given, that the people had more 
easy access to the public worship than at present Whatever su- 
perior advantages the present generation enjoy compared to those 
that are gone, it appears that the latter were more zealous in sup- 
porting a false religion than the former are in supporting and at- 
tending the pure doctrines of the Gospel. 

III. — Population. 
Were we to be guided by the former Statistical Account, we 
would be led to think that the population was greater at the time 
it was written than at present There cannot, however, be the 
least ground for such an opinion, as the Government census shows 
an increase at each of the periods it was taken. No part of the 
parish has been depopulated, and, in moors where ten years ago 
there was no house, a considerable number of dwellings is now 
built The occupiers improve as much of the waste ground as 
their circumstances enable them. The gradual increase of the 
population is to be attributed to the cultivation of waste ground, — 
the improvement of which is carried on by those poor and indus- 
trious individuals who build houses in moors, and by farmers who 



HALK1R{C. 75 

employ labourers to cultivate wastes adjacent to the arable land 
they occupy. Thus there is a demand for labour, and the soil 
yields a produce su£Scient to remunerate the farmer for the capi- 
tal he may have laid out. 

In 1881 the popuktion w»t 2847, ti'z. 1822 males ; 1525 fetnalet. 
In 1836, - 3065 

of whom about 1180 were under 15 yean of age, 

875 were between 15 and 30 years, 
645 - 30 and 50 

294 - 50 and 70 

91 were upwards of 70 years* 

There is a population of 1 70 in the village of Halkirk, and the 
rest spread over the extent of the parish. The average number 
of marriages is 18 in the year, and of baptisms, 74. There is no 
register of deaths kept. 

Language. — The Gaelic language and the Scotsr dialect of 
English are spoken in the parish. A considerable majority of the 
old people speak the Gaelic ; but there are not many of the young 
who cannot speak the Scotch, which, it is acknowledged, prevails 
now more than it did thirty or forty years ago. 

According to the usages of this parish, and, indeed, of the 
county, the terms for hiring farm as well as domestic servants, 
commence for the summer half year on the 20th of June, and for 
the winter half year on the 26th of November, or the 9th of June, 
and 15th of November old style. This is a very unequal division 
of the year, inasmuch as it makes a difference of very nearly seven 
weeks betwixt the summer and the winter half year. But this is 
not all ; for servants who complete their service on the 20th of 
June are not considered entitled to their wages till towards the 
end of August, — the time of a great annual market at Thurso, 
and as a great number of servants attend this market it gives them 
an opportunity of mis-spending their wages. A servant, whose 
term of service ends on the 26th of November, is not paid his 
wages till the 12th of January thereafter, which is the day observed 
by the country people as New- Year's Day, — a time when servants 
are too apt to spend their hard-earned penny in drink and other 
equally useless purposes. The dwelling-houses of the peasantry, 
constructed without much regard to the rules of architecture, have 
a forbidding appearance. This description is applicable to the 
greater number of houses. In most cases, all the houses neces- 
sary for the generality of tenants are built in a continued line. 
The barn and the kiln are in one end of this line> after these fol- 
lows the dwelling-house, generally divided into three apartments. 



»•£? 



76 CAITUNESS-SHIRE. 

After this come the byre, stable, and other necessary houses, ar- 
ranged in an order by no means the most convenient or pleasing. 
Some have of late built houses of better construction, which have 
a more pleasing aspect, and must at the same time afford their oc- 
cupiers more comfort than houses built after the structure follow- 
ed till very lately in this county. It may be mentioned that at- 
tention is paid to cleanliness, both in the domestic economy and 
dress of the peasantry, and the sober and the industrious enjoy 
that share of the comforts of life with which people in the lower 
ranks are generally found to be content ; and that they are so in 
this parish, the writer knows from the experience of several years 
spent among them. In a population so great, there must of neces- 
sity be individuals of very different dispositions, and of various de- 
grees of intelligence ; but, keeping out of view occasional brawls 
and a few squabbles which very seldom occur, the great mass of the 
population is to be considered as composed of good moral charac- 
ters, who, in outward behaviour, conduct themselves in a manner 
becoming the Christian name ; and there is a reason to hope, that 
not a few have felt the vital influences of the gospel of peace. 
The whole of the inhabitants, with the exception of thirtyrthree* 
individuals, are attached to the Established Church of Scotland. 
Making allowances for the distances which they have to travel, 
and the very bad roads by which they must come, the people on 
the whole are regular in attending public worship on the Sabbath, 
as well as catechetical exercises on week-days. That they are 
exempted from the failings and short-comings of our nature, is 
what can be neither expected nor affirmed. That a few young men, 
prompted by folly and the mere love of sport, should occasionally 
trespass against the game laws, can surprise no one who considers 
the temptations to which individuals are exposed in a place where 
wide extended moors, with abundance of game, are inducements 
to the sportsman too powerful to be resisted. This is not an apo- 
logy for breaches of law ; it is a mere statement of facts, which, 
when considered, must make the rarity of such breaches highly 
creditable to the inhabitants of remote districts, who can often 
commit a trespass of this nature without the least fear of de- 
tection. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agrictdture.--^The parish, as already observed, may be cousi- 

* Of these, six, an exciseman and his family, who were Episcopalians, have lately 
left the parish. 

3 



HALKIRK. 77 

dered in extent as about 90 or 92 square miles,— 73,600 imperial 
acres : about 6000 of these are cultivated, as many under natural 
or meadow grass, and the rest is moor, moss, lakes, rivers, &c« The 
rate of annual rent is as high as L. 1, 10s. and as low as 2s. 6d. 
per acre. From what has already been done, it is quite evident 
that a great proportion of what is now waste ground might be im« 
proved to advantage, and, were the people encouraged to labour in 
this work, many would undertake the cultivation of such ground in 
preference to going to America at the imminent risk of their lives, 
and in violation of those feelings which make man cleave to the 
rugged rocks of his native mountain, the remembrance of which is 
associated in foreign climes with his recollection of the home and 
the country of his fathers. It is much to be regretted that those 
who do their utmost to subdue the stubborn soil of the moor 
and the mountain meet with so little encouragement. Instead of 
being made to pay a rent of ds. or 2s. 6d. for every acre brought 
into cultivation, it would be better policy to give four times the 
sum for every acre so cultivated, for at least five or six years after 
a poor person commences such laborious and expensive work, and 
then a moderate rent might be charged for an equal number of 
years. A plan of this nature would encourage individuals to improve 
waste grounds, which, as they are, yield no food for man, no re^ 
venue for the proprietors, — whereas, by following a different system 
from that adopted, they might be made to support the labourer, 
and to pay the landlord a certain per centage for moneys expended 
in inducing people to embark in the work. A good deal is cer- 
tainly done, but infinitely more would be cheerfully performed 
under a system which would hold out inducements for adding to 
what ope may already possess, instead of deterring him from doing 
anything that way, by the certainty of 5s. being added to his rent 
for every acre brought into cultivation. 

Quarries. — There are quarries of limestone in different parts of 
the parish. The lime made from these is used in masonry ; but it 
answers better in agricultural processes than for any other use it can 
be applied to. There are also quarries of flags. These are much 
used in flooring in country houses ; they are also used in paving ; 
for which they are remarkably well adapted. Great numbers of 
them are annually exported to Leith, Aberdeen, &c. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Toum. — The nearest market-town is Thurso, which is 
about seven miles from the parish church. 



78 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

Means of CommunicatiofL'-^There are three roads through the 
parish by which people can travel to Thurso ; these are not finish- 
ed to the different extremities of the parish. They have been 
made within the last three years on Macadam's principles, and 
are in very good repair. An annual market is held in thq 
Tillage of Halkirk on the Tuesday before the 26th December. Its 
name is St Magnus ; it is not much attended. Another annual 
market is held within two miles of the church. The site of this mar- 
ket is the hill of Ruggy, which is partly in this parish, and partly in 
the parishes of Thurso and Bower. The market is principally a 
cattle one ; the situation is centrical ; and people from all parts of 
the county can conveniently attend. Five roads may be said to 
lead to the place where it is held : one from Thurso^ one through 
Bower and Watten, one from Wick, one from Latheron, and one 
through this parish. 

There are two bridges on the river of Halkirk ; one at the vil- 
lage not more than a quarter of a mile from the church. It was 
built in 1731, consists of three arches, and is very convenient and 
useful. It has of late undergone considerable repairs, and, if no 
unforeseen accident happen, it may stand for centuries to come. 
The other bridge is at Dale, five miles farther up the river than 
the Halkirk bridge. It contains two arches, each thirty feet span. 
It is quite new, having been finished in 1834. There is also a 
timber bridge in the Mission at Dirlot It is intended for the con- 
venience of people coming to hear preaching at the Mission-house, 
and is equally convenient for general and ordinary communication. 

There is a mile of turnpike road passing through a comer of 
the parish, and the mail-coach passes through this part of the pa- 
rish twice every day, but the inhabitants do not enjoy the benefit 
of it, for all letters for the parish are carried to Thurso, and some- 
times lie there a day or two before they are brought to the Bridge- 
end of Halkirk, to which there is a penny-bag thrice a week. This 
is kept up at an expense of L. 9, — a much greater expenditure 
than could be incurred were there a bag with all letters for the pa- 
rish left at one or other of the houses in that part of the parish 
through which the mail passes. Besides this mile of turnpike, 
there are three branches of county road, — ^the whole making an 
aggregate of about fifteen miles. 

Ecclesiastical State* — The church is situated on the east side of 
the river, — near the extremity of the parish on that side, — on the 
other, however, the parish extends three miles towards Thurso. 



HALKIRK. 79 

The distance from the church to Achpheadair (PeterVfield) and 
Knockglass, the extremities on the west and north-west, is from five 
to six miles and a-half; the distance to Banniskirk and Achchipster, 
the extremities on the east and south-east, is three miles and a-half 
to the former, and six and a-half to the latter ; and the distance to 
Dalghanachain, Glutt, and Rumsdale, the utmost extremity to the 
south, is from twenty to twenty-four miles. The church was built in 
1753^ and underwent a substantial repair in 1833. It accommo- 
dates about 756 individuals ; 18 sittings are set apart for the poor 
by the heritors, and about 20 are provided for them by the minis- 
ter and session, by placing benches in wide passages. Till after 
the last repair of the church, none of the heritors rented their pro- 
portion of sittings in the church; some of them have since let the 
sittings to the tenants, and others have not A few farmers have 
claimed and obtained the same right to a seat in the church that 
they had previous to the repair. The highest rent charged for a 
sitting is 4s. and the lowest Is. The manse was built about the 
same time with the church, and underwent some repairs in 1823. 
The extent of the glebe is from 7^ to 8 imperial acres ; this in- 
cludes the site of the manse, the garden, &c. The annual value 
of the whole is from L. 8 to L, 10. The stipend is )5 chalders 
of victual, half meal and half barley, and L. 10 for communion 
elements. There is a missionary employed in the most distant 
parts of the parish, who is partly supported by the Committee for 
managing the Royal Bounty, and partly by the inhabitants of the 
mission district of the parish. The missionary has three preach- 
ing stations — one at Achrenny in this parish ; one at Halsary in 
the parish of Watten ; and the third at Halladale in the parish of 
Reay. To the Halsary district there is attached a part of the pa- 
rish of Latheron. The population in this parish within the bounds 
of the mission is 784 ; these are very much scattered, and are 
often prevented from attending the missionary's preaching by the 
river and other streams, which, especially during the winter and 
spring, are so much swollen, and that perhaps on the day the 
missionary is to preach in the district, that it is impossible for 
many to attend, and very likely they will not hear sermon again 
till the missionary is there three weeks thereafter. This produces 
great evils, — it begets indifference to the means of grace, and at 
last, in too many cases, a total neglect of these means. This is 
not to be attributed to the missionary, nor, humanly speaking, to 
the people, but to the system on which the mission is established, 



hO CAITUNESS-SniRE. 

and the utter impoft»ibility of any one man being able, howeier 
giftml with abiliiiet and zeal, to discharge aright duties requiring 
continual derotedneif and unwearied labours to perform them 
either with succom of eflBciency. Is it to be supposed that a mi- 
mnicr can administer religious instruction to a population of at 
least 2500, scattered over the remote parts of three parishes, and 
the greater number of the distant glens and valleys in the high 
and mountainous districts of the county of Caithness ? Here is 
committed to the pastoral superintendence of a missionary a boun- 
doryi tlie extremes of which^ by a practicable road, are from forty 
to fifty miles distant from one another. The distance, however, is 
the least of the obstructions in the missionary's way, and of the 
difliculties ho has to encounter in the discharge of his highly im- 
portant duties : there are moors, mosses, and quaking fens which 
dlHJoin ono valley from another, and which make it impossible, ez« 
copt by circuitous routes, to pass from glen to glen during the win- 
tor and spring months. The number of sittings in the mission 
hoUHO is 403| of which 35 1 were let when a survey was made dur- 
ing the spring of last year ; the highest rent charged is Is. and the 
In wont (Ul. |>cr sitting. The whole church accommodation then 
in tlif> |mrish is 1150 sittings, which is by far too few were the 
ppopio within a distance that could enable them to attend regu- 
iiirlVi It in \)uo»tionAblO| however, how far the mission^house, 
t^^^^\\ tho oih'umManoos mcnCioned, with preaching once in the 
ihtvo wivks \\\\^\\\ to Ih« nH?koned church accommodation. There 
iMi^ l\N^^ ^"tittH'hiittjt oniploYinl by the minister and session, but they 
i^w \s\\\s\'\\M\\\) |Hiid by the j)arishioners. The parish church and 
||u» tMiulon \A\\\[i^\ are the only places of worship in the parish. 
'l\\\i totui \^t M denominations who do not attend public worship 
In ihn ICxttiblished Church is about 83 individuals; some of these 
^{p St»omlor(i, others Independents, and a few Baptists and Epis^ 
impMlitinti. 

'l1io number of communicants in the parish is 1 10. These bear 
a NUUill proportion to the population ; but it is better to have a few 
whoso walk and conversation are in conformity with the faith and 
the doctrines of Christianity, than to admit a promiscuous multi- 
tude, whose only motive might be the enjoyment of the outward 
privileges conferred on the partakers of this sacrament. 

Education. — The number of schools taught in the parish during 
the last two or three years is 13. One of these is the parochial 
school ; another is supported by the Societv in Scotland for Pro- 



HALKIRK. 81 

pagating Christian Knowledge; and the others, three of which are 
female schools, are wholly supported by the parents of the chil- 
dren. The branches taught are, reading, writing, arithmetic, 
book-keeping, English grammar, and at the parochial school Latin 
and all the other branches. The salary for the parochial school 
is the maximum, and the Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
ledge allow their teacher at Assary L.ld. l^e amount of fees 
varies according to attendance, from L. 3 to L. 5, per quarter ; the 
quarterly fees for each individual is Is. 6d. for reading; 2s. for 
reading and writing ; 2s. 6d. for arithmetic; 3s. for book-keep- 
ing and English grammar; and 5s, for Latin and geography. 
That the people are alive to the benefits of education, is evident 
from their supporting so many schools at their own charges, to in- 
struct their children in the elements of reading, writing, and arith- 
metic Were schools established at all the stations at which the 
people employ teachers, the inhabitants generally would be within 
such a distance of a school as would put it in their power to cause 
their children attend. The total number of children who attend- 
ed the different schools during the year 1835 was 411, and the 
average number for some years is 390. 

Friendly Societies, — There are five Friendly Societies in the pa- 
rish. The object of these is to give a weekly allowance to sick 
members, a sum for funeral charges when any of the member's fa- 
mily dies, and a quarterly allowance to the widows of members, 
who shall have contributed to the funds of the society at least se- 
ven years previous to their death. The total number of members 
in these five societies is 644 ; and the number of widows support- 
ed by them is 29. The funds of the Halkirk Village Society 
amount to L. 300. This is the first that was established in the 
parish. The others have been instituted at various periods since ; 
and one thing that stimulated their founders to get them establish- 
ed may have been the success that attended the first. These 
societies are useful, inasmuch as they put in the power of heads 
of families to provide so far for their wives and children, as to 
leave them independent of parochial relief.* 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The anual average number receiv- 
ing parochial relief during the last ten years has been 95 ; and the 
average yearly sum given to each is 5s. Some of the absentee 

• Since the above was written, an innovation has been introduced into these so. 
cieties, which is likely to end in the dissolution of some of them. The cash was 
given out to some necessitous members, and, as this in too many instances was done 
without proper security, the money is not likely to be all repaid. 
CAITHNESS. F 



82 CAlTHNESS-SHIltE. 

heritors give occasionally a donation of L. 1 or L. 2, in aid of the 
poor's funds. There has been received in this way since 1828, 
about Li 13, 7s. There are two legacies of L. 100 each, the in- 
terest of which is given to the poor. The average of the church 
collections for the last few years has been L. 20, which, with the 
interest of the L. 200 and the donations, generally amount to 
L. 80 or L. 32. Out of this sum the session pay their clerk, pre- 
centor, officer, &c This, the only mode of supplying the wants 
of the poor, is, (except in very few cases,) found adequate to re- 
lievo tho poor and the needy, on whose part there is no desire to 
become chargeable to the parish when they can avoid it ; indeed, 
tho very small sum the funds afford is no inducement to any, ex- 
cept tho truly destitute, to apply for parochial relief. In addition 
to what the very poorest receive from the session, they beg among 
tho farmers, who are sufficiently liberal in giving them meal and 
other provisions, fully as acceptable to, and necessary for the poor 
aM money. 

Inns. — In tho village of Halkirk there are three inns, and four 
in other parts of the parish. Of the whole, three might be re- 
quiroil, but it is most surprising how such public nuisances are 
ullowod to increase to so alarming an extent, to the manifest in- 
jury of tho nu)ral$ of the youth of the parish. 

|>VirA — Thort^ is great abundance of moss in every part of the 
|mri>h« fr\>m which tho inhabitants have an excellent supply of 
|H^Us tho only fuel usoil in the parish. Every farmer is allowed 
to out as nmuY |H>ats on his landlord's property as he requires, 
iMul» a!«t fannors either cut and bring home their own peats, or em- 
\Ao\ thoir servants in doing so, the expense is very little, and sel- 
dom thought of, as the people have more time than money. 

General Observations. 
The most striking contrast betwixt the present state of the pa- 
rish and its state forty years ago is, that there is more cultivation 
carried on, — more of the waste grounds improved, — a better system 
of husbandry introduced, — and the quantity of grain raised is much 
greater than at the former period. The new roads lately made, 
and those intended to be made, as soon as an increase in the funds 
at the disposal of the trustees permits, will, in the course of some 
years, enable landlords and tenants to carry on improvements,, 
which must convince almost every one how little has yet been done 
of what it is possible to accomplish. 
Drawn up in 1834, 
Revised October 1840. 



PARISH OF LATHERON. 

PRESBTTERT OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OP SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. GEORGE DAVIDSON, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Extenty Sfc. — The parish of Latheron is situated on the south* 
east coast of Caithness, and bounded in that direction by the Ger- 
man Ocean and Moray Frith ; on the west, by Sutherlandshire ; 
and on the north and east, by the parishes of Halkirk, Watten, 
and Wick. It is 27 miles in length along the sea coast, and from 
10 to 15 in breadth, containing about 300 square miles. 

Name. — By the last Statistical Account, the ancient name of 
the parish is said to be ^* Loinn^ derived from Luidhoiu, which 
signifies, in the Gaelic, lodged or bedded hear^ because the lands 
contiguous to the church are of a good quality, and yield excellent 
bear." But there is another derivation, which has always appeared 
to the present writer equally probable and rather more natural, 
viz. from the Gaelic words Ldthair Roin, which signifies the re^ 
sort of seals, — a species of animal with which the whole coast is 
covered. Numbers of them are still taken, as will afterwards be 
noticed, and no doubt, in former times, the oil obtained from them 
afforded one means of support to the inhabitants. Besides, this 
derivation seems to accord best with the Gaelic name Latham, 
and to admit of a more easy transition into the modem or English 
name of Latheron. But especially it will be found by a reference 
to the Norse or Icelandic language, that the derivation here pre- 
ferred is much confirmed as to its probable correctness, — the words 
in that language having very much the same meaning. 

There is also another derivation suggested by the aspect of the 
parish, which seems scarcely less probable than that now conjec- 
tured, viz. from the Gaelic Lath-ar-shdnny signifying the day of 
the slaughter of heroes, or Lathair shonn^ the place of heroes. 
Indeed, considering the ancient predilection for commemorating 



84 CAITHNESS-SHIRK. 

the warlike achievements of heroes who had particularly singalized 
themselves, together with the many relics of bloody warfare still 
extant, this derivation has strong claims to a preference to the 
former. 

Topographical Appearance, — The general aspect of the parish is 
remarkably diversiGed, presenting a continued and frequently rapid 
succession of ^* hill and valley ;" in which respect^ it forms a strik- 
ing contrast to all the other parishes in the county. In the western 
extremity, in particular, the ravines are so deep and precipitous as 
to render the access to them difficult and sometimes dangerous ; 
whilst in the same quarter, the hills and mountains of various height 
and figure are in great abundance. Of the former the Ord of 
Caithness, Brenahegleish, and Benachieit are of chief importance, 
and of the latter M6r-bheiu or Morven, Scaraben, and the Pap, 
are most conspicuous. The view fnim their summits is very ex«> 
tensive, embracing, in a clear atmosphere, a great part of twelve 
different counties, besides a vast range of the Atlantic and Ger- 
man oceans. Of the three, Morven, as its Gaelic name indicates, 
is by much the highest, and is supposed to be more than a mile 
above the level of the sea, whence it is generally the first land 
in this quarter seen by mariners, and, as a landmark, is of 
great use in stormy weather. It is worthy of notice that, as 
indicating wet or dry weather, it possesses the confidence of the 
whole county. During harvest especially, all eyes are directed to- 
wards it, and it never deceives. Near its summit, there is a deli- 
cious spring, which is very refreshing to the traveller exhausted in 
gaining its top. The straths are numerous and very beautiful, par- 
ticularly those along the rivers of Langwell, Berriedale, and Dun- 
beath. Scenery more highly romantic and picturesque than that 
on the two former, is not to be met with in the north of Scotland. 
They are admired by every traveller. Their steep banks were 
once densely and extensively wooded, and still there is as much 
remaining as to contribute to their beauty, if not to their value. 
The whole line of coast is compof^d of bold and perpendicular 
rocks, rising from 100 to 300 feet above the sea; forming 
a barrier to the tremendous surge which frequently rolls in 
from the ocean. It is also much indented, in consequence of 
the numerous streams that flow from the interior, and at their junc- 
tion with the sea form inlets more or less spacious. These afibrd 
a very convenient shelter for the boats engaged in the herring-fish- 



I.ATFILRON. 85 

ing. The caves are numerous, and some of t^em from 50 to 60 
fathoms long. Very fine massive specimens of crystallized lime 
have been taken from the tops and sides of them, and are still 
preserved. But they are chiefly celebrated for the great numbers 
of seals that frequent them at all seasons, which renders them not 
merely convenient but often lucmtive. The caves are usually vi« 
sited in November, and entered by means o( a boat during the 
night when the seals are at rest. The boat is well manned with 
experienced hands, having each a large piece of wood, and a torch 
or candle. They require to use great caution in approaching the 
cave, as the seals are always on the alert, and upon hearing the least 
noise rush forward with astonishing rapidity towards the sea, in 
which they immediately disappear, putting the water into great agi-^ 
tation. When the boat is perceived before taking the ground, 
most of them escape in this way. As soon as the boat has ground- 
ed, the men leap out with great agility, and, intercepting the seals 
in their progress downwards, strike them on the head, when they 
instantly fall. On any other part the blow has no effect. In this 
manner, several scores have been captured at a time ; but of late 
from twenty to thirty is considered a good taking. 

The principal headlands are the Ord, Berriedale-head, and 
Clyth-ness. 

Climate. — The climate, generally speaking, is dry, and, for or* 
dinary constitutions, extremely healthy ; to which the elevation of 
the land and the consequent rarity of the atmosphere much con- 
tribute. These circumstances, however, seem to favour heavy 
gales of wind, which are frequently experienced, particularly from 
the west and north-we$t. The temperature of the atmosphere 
may be about 56° Fahrenheit. 

Considering the extraordinary density of the population, diseas* 
es are by no means frequent. Fever and rheumatism are certain- 
ly most prevalent It has been observed that the former is very 
commonly carried by infection from the lower parts of the county, 
and the latter appears to be much occasioned by the want of 
warm clothing suited to the laborious habits of the people. For'- 
merly, all the small tenantry were in possession of a few sheep, and 
by this means provided themselves with suitable clothing; but of 
late, owing to the great increase of population, and the conse- 
quent demand for land, their farms have been so reduced in ex- 
tent by division and subdivision from year to year, that comparative- 



86 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

ly few sheep can be kept by them, which, both in respect tofoodantL 
clothing, is most disadvantagepus. Instances of longevity are very 
frequent, — several persons now living are nearly 100 years of age, 
and one man has completed his 105th year, and is stiil in possession 
of all his faculties. As formerly stated, the Moray Frith forms 
the boundary of this parish on the south-east It varies in breadth 
from 50 to 60 miles, possesses fine fishing-ground ; but in stormy 

weather the sea is easily raised into what sailors call a short tumb* 

ft .. 

ling swell, which frequently proves fatal to fishing boats. The 
tides are of considerable rapidity, and may be about two hocir» and 
three-quarters before Leith. Perennial springs abound throughout 
the parish, and the temperature of such as have been tried was 
found, some of the more copious at 54% and the less so at 56^ and 
58°. Many of them are much impregnated with iron. There are 
three rivers in the parish, viz. Dunbeath, Berriedale and Langwell, 
which abound with trout and salmon. They have their source 
from twelve to sixteen miles from the sea, but are very small in 
summer, though much swollen in winter, and very rapid. The 
only lakes are Rangay and Stempster, in both of which there js plen- 
ty of trout and eels. On the east side of the former, there are the 
remains of a small fortification, which was evidently surrounded by 
the water of the lake by means of a ditch ; and contiguous to the 
latter are) the ruins of a Druidical temple and the Arch-Druid's 
house. 

Geology. — The geological features of this parish are totally dif- 
ferent from those of the rest of the county, and merit more notice 
than the prescribed limits of this Account admit of. The greater 
part of Caithness is what is called a secondary formation, consist- 
ing chiefly of clay flagstone, having more or less calcareous matter 
with a few instances of the red sandstone, elevated into lofty head- 
lands at Dunnet and Duncansbay. On approaching the northern 
boundary of the parish, betwixt Ulbster and Bruan, a great change 
is observable in the physical character of the country. Beyond 
this point, the southern portion of the county, embracing this parish, 
along the eastern coast is hilly and much diversified. A numbe? * 
of streams intersect it, swelling in the winter to a great size. The 
elevated portion of this district rises from the knotty promontory 
of Clyth-ness, and forms several irregular terraces, occupying the 
north part of the parish. The lowest of these dip 25** to 30^ in- 
land, while the higher and more rotund incline only 8° or 10%" 



LATHERON. 87 

Near the shore, blue calcareous flagstone occurs, and is overlaid 
by a series of sandstone beds of considerable thickness. Bena- 
cheilt is the highest part of this region, and round it the strata are 
arranged in a fan-shaped form, so that while the beds on the coast, 
at Nottingham and Latheron, dip westerly, at Braehungay on the 
south side of this hill, they veer round to the N.E. against the 
hill; and still farther inland, at Achavanich, the dip is E.S.E. 
Between Latheron and Dunbeath, the beds rise into micaceous 
sandstones alternating with blue calcareous flagstone. At the lat- 
ter place they consist of bluish and gray close-grained sandstone, 
with occasional alternating of greenish and bluish flagstones, and 
are prolonged into hills in the interior, distinctly resting upon the 
old red conglomerate, or puddingstone of Braemore, connected 
with the chain of mountains forming the southern boundary of the 
county. Along the coast, the same slaty beds continue to prevail 
in high clifis to the south of Berriedale. At Borgue, there is an 
isolated mass of the old conglomerate, probably owing its existence 
to the degradation of the nearest point of the Scarabins, a primary 
mass of quartz rock. This range of high bare rock is clasped on 
each side by the conglomerate series, composing nearly the whole 
of the surrounding hills, which, being prolonged between the 
Scarabins and the granite of the Ord, terminate in the cliff be- 
tween Berriedale and Ausdale. The coast thence to the Ord is 
occupied by red micaceous flagstone, succeeded by some beds of 
red sandstone rising into a perpendicular cliff about 800 feet high 
at Trefad. Masses of the conglomerate also present themselves 
occasionally, particularly in the cliff at Badbea. Farther south, 
the cliff again changes its character, and is occupied by great 
crumbhng masses of red marl and sandstone, containing a few 
bands of bluish flagstone. These gradually pass into a strong red 
sandstone, which is separated from the granite mass of the Ord by 
a high cliff of conglomerate. The junction is nearly marked by 
a cascade of the Ausdale rivulet, which tumbles into the sea from 
the height of 100 feet over these conglomerate rocks. 

The necessarily brief and imperfect outline here given affords 
no adequate idea of the interesting geological character of this 
district To convey a more complete view of it would be in* 
admissible here. It may be proper, however, to state that the 
old conglomerate, composing the southern hills of this parish, 
and stretching thence along the borders to the west side of the 



88 CA1THNESS*SH1RE. 

county, is considered as forming the lowest bed of the secondary 
formation, being succeeded by beds of siliceous and calcareo-sili- 
ceous flagstone and slate-clay, which occupies the great body of 
the county from sea to sea, sinking at length under the highest or 
uppermost of the secondary series, the new red sandstone of Dun- 
net and Duncansbay Heads. 

Soil — The soil varies considerably in nature and quality in dif- 
ferent parts of the parish. On the estates of Langwell and Dun- 
beath in the west end, it is generally of a sharp gravelly description, 
and very dry. Latheronwheel and Liatheron, being next in order, 
are less gravelly, but sufficiently sharp and mellow. Torse, Swiney, 
and Lybster rather wet and cold, having for the substratum a strong 
tenacious clay, which renders it later in bringing the crops to ma^ 
turity ; whilst the estate of Clyth in the eastern extremity very 
much partakes of the dry, sharp loam of the centre and western 
districts. Upon the whole, the soil may be pronounced shallow, 
but easily wrought, and, with good management, capable of pro- 
ducing all kinds of grain, together with clover, turnips and pota- 
toes. In many parts it abounds with detached rocks and large 
stones, which form a serious obstacle to the plough ; and though 
much has been done towards the removing of them out of the cuU 
tivated ground, yet still much remains to be done, and this circum- 
stance presents a great discouragement in the way of improvement ; 
yet it is, nevertheless, progressing rapidly. 

Zoology. — Before the introduction of sheep-farming, deer were 
to be found in considerable numbers on the estates of Langwell, 
Braemore, and Dunbeath, but for many years back they are rarely 
to be met with ; but grpuse, ptarmigan, and blackcock are in great 
abundance. The salmon on the rivers are of uncommonly 6ne 
quality. The rivers of Berriedale and Langwell unite when about 
200 yards from the sea, and it is remarkable that the native fish 
of one river are rarely to be found in the other. At the spawning 
season, the salmon of both rivers seem to bear one another com- 
pany till they come to the point of separation, when, from a cu- 
rious peculiarity of natural instinct, each selects its native stream. 
There are about twenty difiFerent species of fish caught on the 
coast. Those of greatest importance in an economical point of 
view are, herrings, cod, haddocks, skate, and flounders. 

IL — Civil History. 
.From the want of authentic records as to the early history of 



LATHERON. 89 

this parish, very little can be noticed under this head. Judginjify 
however, from the number and variety of the remains of those 
places of strength which it contains, together with the other war- 
like relics of barbarous and feudal times with which it is every- 
where bestudded, there can be no doubt that it formed the scene 
of many a well fought field. But, as usually happens in such 
cases, tradition has been very fertile in supplying th6 lack of more 
correct information. One tradition out of many may be noticed as 
highly probable. It refers to the last invasion of this county by the 
Danes. On that occasion they landed near the town of Thurso, 
under the command of the young Prince of Denmark, and the 
natives, not being in sufficient strength to oppose them, retreated 
across the county, followed by the invaders, till they came to the 
hill of Ben-a-gheil, in this parish, distant twenty miles from Thurso* 
By this time, the ranks of the natives having been greatly increased 
in number, and being now in view of the coast where their retreat 
must be stopped, deriving courage also from the very favourable^ 
position they occupied on this hill, — they resolved to try the fyte 
of a pitched battle. Having taken their ground, the enemy soon 
came up and attempted to dislodge them, when they poured down 
in one dense mass, broke the enemy's ranks, killed their leader, 
and routed their whole force. A huge stone, placed perpendicular 
in the ground, resembling a pillar, marks the place where the 
Prince fell ; and from this occurrence the hill itself seems to de- 
rive its Gaelic name, Ben-a-gheil, signifying the hill where they 
yielded, or were overcome. 

Eminent Men, — One of the most eminent men known to have 
been connected with this parish, was the late Sir John Sinclair 
of Ulbster, Bart, author of the former Statistical Account of 
Scotland, the Code of Agriculture, &c. &c. ; a man who was an 
ornament to the age in which he lived, and of whom any parish 
or county might deservedly boast Sir John was principal pro- 
prietor in this parish, and the estate of Langwell, then in his pos- 
session, was his favourite resort during the periods of his re- 
sidence in the county. Here he commenced some of his earliest 
and most extensive improvements in the several departments of 
plantation, agriculture, and sheep-farming, in the first and last 
of which he completely succeeded ; and much of the beauty and 
utility of this valuable property is owing to his spirited and perse- 
vering exertions, seconded, as they were, by the skill and good 



90 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

taste of his successor, the late James Horae, Esq. of LangwelL 
Od Sir John Sinclair's merits as a man of varied talent, an able 
and extensive author, an accomplished scholar, or skilful states 
man, it is not intended here to enlarge^ as the subject more pro- 
perly belongs to his native parish of Thurso. He was possessed of 
a singularly intelligent, active, andl benevolent mind, insomuch 
that no parish or district of country could have enjoyed his pre- 
sence for any length of time ¥dthout being benefited thereby. 
Indeed, such was the quickness of his perception, and the warmth 
of his philanthropy, that even in his passing visits to quarters 
where' he had no personal interest, he seldom failed to suggest 
some measures for the improvement of the soil, and especially of 
its inhabitants, and was always ready, from his own resources^ to 
assist in carrying them into execution. Of this a very striking 
instance occurred in the highlands of Perthshire, and was com- 
municated to the writer when visiting the person with whom the 
transaction was entered into. On one occasion Sir John hap* 
pened to be travelling along Loch Tay side, and observing 
the country very densely peopled with small tenantry, and that 
the lofty range of mountains, green to the very summits, with 
which this beautiful lake is surrounded, were chiefly pastured by 
sheep, inquired how the people, in so remote a quarter, disposed 
of their wool ; and being informed that each family employed one, 
two, or three spinning wheels, according to the number of females 
it contained, it readily occurred to him that a spinning mill might 
prove a great acquisition in the district, and find abundant em- 
ployment. He accordingly sought out the ablest person for such 
an undertaking, and was directed to a Mr M'Naughton in the 
vicinity of Kenmore. To him he immediately repaired, and, after 
enumerating the advantages likely to arise to the whole neighbour*, 
hood from such a concern, together with the great probability of 
its success, and the prospect of the emoluments which it held out, 
strongly urged him to undertake it. This Mr M*Naughton at 
first declined, assigning as a reason, that neither he nor any other 
individual in the place could afford to run the risk of a failure. 
« Well," said Sir John, "but will you conduct it, provided I take the 
risk upon myself?" To this Mr M'Naughton, after some hesita- 
tion, assented. The mill was soon procured and commenced ope- 
rations, and so completely were Sir John's predictions realized, 
tliat in a few years thereafter, Mr M*Naughton erected other two 

3 



LATHERON. 9^1 

at bis own expense in other parts of the country ; a circumstance 
no less gratifying to the originator, than advantageous to the sur* 
rounding community. 

Ldxnd'owners. — The chief land-owners of the parish are, Sir 
G^rge Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart.; William Sinclair, Esq. of 
Freswick ; John Sutherland, Esq. of Forse ; Donald Home, Esq. 
of Langwell ; Colonel Gordon of Swiney ; Lord Duffus ; Sir 
Ralph A. Anstruther, Bart. ; Temple Frederick Sinclair, Esq. of 
Lybster ; and Donald Munro, Esq. of Latheron. 

Parochial Registers, — The earliest date of the parochial records 
now extant is 1755. They have been pretty regularly kept tHl 
1770. There is then a chasm of nearly thirteen years to 1788^ 
after which they have, with few exceptions, been correctly kept ; 
especially since 1813^ the entries are scrupulously correct 

Antiquities. — From the great number of castles in this parish, it 
would appear as if the chief strength of the county were concentrat- 
ed in it There are no fewer than eight of them along the sea-coast, 
and for the most part built on the very brink of high and perpendicu- 
lar rocks overhanging the sea, and inaccessible from that quarter. 
They were also so constructed as to admit of separation from the 
land at pleasure, the chief connection being by means of a draw- 
bridge. The greater number of them are now in ruins, but, from 
the height, strength, and thickness of the walls of those that re- 
main, it may easily be conceived what a formidable obstacle they 
presented to an invading enemy in those times, standing as they 
do in such close succession. Beginning at the south, their names 
are Berriedale, Achastle, Dunbeath, (still inhabited,) Knockinnan, 
Latheron, Forse, Swiney, and Clyth. Several of them are still 
celebrated for the warlike deeds of their brave, though ferocious 
original possessors, and it is highly instructive to contrast the se- 
curity, peace, and tranquillity of those who now surround them, 
with the insecurity, rapine, and bloodshed that prevailed in former 
days. It is hardly necessary to add, that these ruins present not 
the slightest traces either of the graces of ornament, or the em- 
bellishments of art, which so tastefully adorn more modern archi« 
tecture. 

Modem Buildings. — The only buildings of recent erection de- 
serving of notice are the churches of Berriedale and Lybster. The 
former is a Government church, of very neat construction, though 
small in size. It was built in 1826, and contains about 300 sitters* 



92 CAITHNESS'SHIKE. 

There is a very comfortable manse close by it. Both are very 
compact, and a great ornament to the district in which they are 
placed. The latter, viz. Lybster, was built by subscription in 
1836. It is a substantial, well-6nished^ and most comfortable 
church. It contains 805 sittings, and cost L.630. It is placed 
in the village of Lybster, from which it takes its name, and to the 
importance of which it contributes not less by its utility than its 
acknowledged ornament 

IIL — POPOLATION. 

From the want of correct records, it is impossible to ascertain 
the ancient state of the population with accuracy. Tliere can be 
no doubt, however, that it has been progressing during the last 
century at a very rapid rate. It is stated in the former Statistical 
Account, that the population had nearly doubled during the 
seventy years preceding 1794, when it amounted to 4006 ; and 
such has been the extraordinary rapidity of the increase during 
the forty years that have since elapsed, that it is now fblly double 
that amount. Where this extraordinary increase of country po- 
pulation is to terminate, and by what means a suitable provision is 
to be made for their comfortable support, it is difficult to imagine. 
At present there are no indications of a decrease, unless sheep- 
farming, which commenced some time ago, should become more 
general. 

The chief cause of the recent astonishing increase in the 
population is unquestionably the great and growing extent to 
which the herring-fishing has been prosecuted along the whole 
coast, and the extraordinary success with which it has generally 
been attended. Upon its permanency or failure, therefore, main* 
ly depends the future continued increase, or rapid decrease of the 
population. 

The present number of the population residing in villages is - 535 

In the rest of the parish, - - - . 7445 

The yearly average of births for the last seven years, is - - 197 
No record is kept of deaths. 

The yearly average of marriages, ... • 53 

The average number (in 1831) of persons under 15 years of age, is -> 2699 

betwixt 15 and 90, - 1730 

30 and 50, - 1501 

50 and 70, - 791 

upwards of 70, . . 169 

The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards. 9 

Males unmarried, upwards of 50 years of age, - - - 57 

Females, do. • 45 do. - • • - 348 

Numberof families in 1831, ... . 1406 

Average number of children for each family in the parish, - -2 



LATHE HON. 93 

Number of famtlies employed in agriculture in 1881, . 1068 

trade, manufacture, or handicraft, 161 

Number of fatuous persons, 20 ; bliud, 3. 

Language^ Habits^ ^c. — The Gaelic language is generally 
Kpoken by the lower class of people throughout the greater part 
of the parish, but it has certainly lost ground during the last forty 
years, and, in proportion as the improved system of education ad- 
vances, it will no doubt continue to decline still more. In proof 
of this, the presbytery of Caithness have lately come to the deci- 
sion to discontinue the preaching of the Gaelic language in the 
eastern district of the parish occupied by the mission of Bruan, 
where a missionary was last year appointed, who has no Gaelic 
Formerly the missionary always preached in both languages, but, 
in all probability, this system is not likely to be again resorted to. 
It is a singular circumstance* that, for a long period, the burn of 
East Clyth seems to have formed the boundary between the Gae* 
lie and English languages. On the east side of it,' scarcely a word 
of Gaelic was either spoken or understood, and on the west side the 
English shared the same fate ; and this was the more wonderful, 
as both sides were rather densely peopled. Now, however, the 
English has not only made encroachments upon the Gaelic terri<* 
tory, but has extended itself over the whole neighbouring dis* 
trict ; and, indeed, were it not that its progress was consider- 
ably impeded by the importation of several colonies of High- 
landers from the heights of Kildonan and other- parts of Suther- 
landshire about twenty years ago, when the sheep system com- 
menced there, its triumphs, ere now, would have been still more 
extensive. 

,A very decided improvement has, for many years back, been ob- 
servable both in the external appearance and interna} comforts of 
the cottages of the peasantry. The old hovels are iast disappear* 
ing, and neat substantial houses, having vents and chimney tops in 
one or both ends, are occupying their places. With these im- 
provements in the accommodations and comforts of the people, 
there has, as might naturally be expected, been a somewhat pro- 
portional advance in their habits of cleanliness and manner of 
dress, in both of which many of them display considerable taste 
and neatness. Indeed, there is reason to fear that the youth of 
both sexes are, in the article of dress, rather in danger of exceed- 
ing their means. The ordinary food consists of oat and bear 



94 CAITHNESS-SHIttE. 

meal, potatoes, and fish of various kinds, of which there is usually 
an abundant supply. In the latter article, few parishes are pos- 
sessed of equal advantages, for, in addition to the opportunities of 
obtaining white fish of excellent quality when the weather is mo- 
derate, each family lays in a regular stock of from one to three 
barrels of cured herrings, according to the number of persons of 
which it consists. This, vnth potatoes, milk, and a moderate 
quantity of bread, together with a little animal food occasionally, 
forms a wholesome and nourishing diet at all seasons. 

Cionsidering the many disadvantages in respect to religious and 
moral training under which this parish has long laboured, arising 
from its immense extent, and the density of its population, crowd- 
ed together, in many quarters, in large masses, — the extraordi- 
nary lack of respectable and exemplary iamilies located among 
them, so necessary to give a tone to the morals of the lower 
classes,— -the very unfavourable nature of their ordinary avocations 
towards the fostering and maturing of religious habits, — together 
with the scarcity of competent instructors to maintain a strict and 
continuous pastoral superintendence among them, — considering 
these acknowledged disadvantages, it is wonderful and pleasing to 
perceive the hold which religious principle and moral responsibility 
possess over the people generally ; whilst in very many particular 
cases, the acuteness and intelligence discoverable on religious sub- 
jects, combined, iis frequently happens, with fervent and unobtru- 
sive piety, are not less striking and refreshing to contemplate, than 
diffusive and beneficial in their consequences. That instances of 
ignorance and irreligion, attended by their natural offspring, vice 
and immorality, are to be met with, cannot be denied ; but, in a 
community so circumstanced, the great wonder is, that they do 
not prevail to a much greater extent. This is to be attributed, 
under Providence, to the wholesome checks and remedies which 
have more recently been applied, by extending, as far as possible, 
the improved system of education, and providing additional facili- 
ties of religious instruction and pastoral superintendence over the 
more remote and destitute districts ; a system which, even in its 
infancy, is already producing a marked improvement on the ha- 
bits of the people generally. 

Upon the whole, the peasantry may be said to possess a tole- 
rable degree of knowledge for their station in life. With few ex- 
ceptions, they are well acquainted with the catechisms and leading 



LATHERON. 96 

doctrines of our church, which maintain a powerful influence over 
them in all the relations of life. In particular, their minds are 
deeply imbued with suitable impressions of an overruling Provi- 
dence governing all things according to the Divine will ; a prin- 
ciple which, whilst it moderates their joy in prosperity, power- 
fully supports them under adversity. Of this there were innume- 
rable instances of a very pleasing nature during the three past 
years, when, as is well known, the crops were almost a total fail- 
ure all over the Highlands. The patient resignation and deep 
submission with which this heavy calamity was borne, could not 
fail to excite the admiration of every attentive observer. Instead 
of riot, robbery, and bloodshed, which in many other quarters fol- 
low in the train of less formidable privations, here the public peace 
was never disturbed ; but, on the contrary, life, and even property 
in general, were alike secure as in more favourable circumstances. 
To behold 7000 people suffering under the most distressing des- 
titution for three successive years, many families without a hand- 
ful of meal in their houses for weeks together, others satisfled 
with a little water-gruel once a-day, and still nothing but quiet- 
ness and submission prevailing, what a triumph for that sound 
Scriptural education to which they are early habituated, and con- 
sequent religious principle of which it seldom fails to be produc- 
tive ! A high veneration for the being, attributes, and worship 
of the Deity is everywhere observable. The sanctity of the Sab- 
bath is universally upheld. Scarcely a movement is to be seen 
during that sacred day excepting to or from the places of public 
worship, which are remarkably well attended. The important 
duty of family worship, so necessary for the formation and 
exhibition of the Christian character, is also very generally 
observed. 

But whilst it is truly pleasing to dwell upon the ascendency 
which these principles and habits possess among the great body 
of the peasantry, yet a regard to truth requires the admission, 
however painful, that instances do occur, from time to time, of 
a character directly opposite. Of these one of the greatest irregu- 
larities is that of drinking ardent spirits, to which not a few are 
addicted, especially during the winter season. This degrading 
practice was formerly occasioned by the extent to which the smug- 
gling of whisky was carried on ; but the system of heavy fines or im- 
prisonment, introduced many years ago in all cases of detection. 



SG CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

was the meaus of checking it in a great degree. But this system 
was soon relaxed on account of the expenses attending the im- 
prisonment of delinquents. Then followed a more vigilant and 
active surveillance on the part of the excise, particularly the inde- 
fatigable exertions of one active officer, a Mr M*Mahon, whose 
very name spread terror all over the county, from the Ord of 
Caithness to John O* Groats, by the havoc he made upon this ne- 
farious and demoralizing trade. He was neither to be bribed nor 
deceived, and scarce a single case escaped his detection in the 
whole range of the county. This has given the 6nishing blow to 
smuggling in this quarter, and for several years not a single case 
has occurred here. The good effects of this change are already 
apparent in the districts where the practice most prevailed ; but 
it is only when the present generation shall have passed away, that 
the full advantage will be appreciated. Another practice attend- 
ed with very pernicious effects is that frequently adopted by fish- 
curers, of giving from 6ve to seven gallons of whisky to each boat's 
crew during the herring-fishing season, which, on an average, will 
be at the rate of one bottle to each crew of four mea every fishing 
night ; and although some have the prudence to reserve a consi- 
derable part of it, yet others consume their whole allowance. By 
this means young men are led into drinking habits very early. It 
is a great evil, and loudly calls for a remedy. 

Poaching in the moors and rivers can hardly be said to exist, 
owing to the strict regulations adopted by the proprietors. In- 
deed such is their authority over the tenantry, that it is complete- 
ly in their power to suppress smuggling, thieving, and even habits 
of excessive drinking at any time, were they to put that authority 
in vigorous execution, and to act in concert. But so far is this 
from being always the case, as it certainly ought to be, that it is 
no uncommon occurrence to see individuals notorious for one or 
other of the above practices, when removed from one property, 
received on that immediately adjoining it; by which, means they 
sometimes become more injurious to that from which they have 
been removed, (by theft for instance,) than if they had been per- 
mitted to remain unmolested. Besides, how cruel is it towards 
those among whom such characters are placed ! Were certifi- 
cates of moral character strictly insisted upon from every new te- 
nant, many irregularities would be greatly checked — a precaution 
urgently called for. 

4 



LATHERON. 97 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture and Rural Economy. — Although the lands in this 
parish are well adapted for agriculture, and although it contains 
several farms in the very highest state of cultivation, yet, as the 
great body of its inhabitants are engaged in the herring-fishing, 
and make the cultivation of the soil little more than a secondary 
concern, it is, perhaps, less agricultural than many other parishes 
in the county, that are greatly inferior in extent, population, and 
internal resources. Its pastoral qualities are peculiarly valuable, 
and likely to be put in still more extensive requisition. 

It contains fully 140,000 imperial acres, of which about 9000 
are arable, and about an equal quantity capable of being made so, 
though at a considerable expense, from the great number of rocks 
and isolated large stones near the surface. There are probably not 
more than 250 acres of undivided common in the whole parish, 
and about 720 acres of wood of all descriptions ; by far the greater 
part of which consists of natural brushwood, chiefly along the ro- 
mantic banks of the rivers Berriedale, Langwell, and Dunbeath. 
At the former, however, there is a considerable extent of planted 
wood of all kinds, and well attended to in respect to pruning, &c. ; 
and at the latter, there is a tasteful plantation just laid out, which 
will in a few years appear highly ornamental as well as useful. At 
Braemore and Latheronwheel also a good deal has been done, and 
with considerable success ; as also at Lybster, where neither pains 
nor expense have been spared for many years back. But here the 
roots have to contend with a less favourable soil, whilst the trees 
themselves are much exposed from the want of natural shelter, the 
ground being flat, and the soil damp and tenacious, — two obstacles 
formidable in an ungenial climate ; yet there is a striking evidence 
of what can be done by pains and perseverance. 

Bent. — The average rent of arable land is certainly very high, 
considering the indiflerent crops raised by the small tenantry ge- 
nerally. It is about L.1, 5s. per acre, — more than can be realized 
by the occupiers generally, — but then the fishing is expected to 
make up the deficiency. The rate of grazing may be about 
L. 2, 10s. for a cow, and 9s. for a sheep on arable ground, and 
15s. for a cow, and 3s. for a sheep on hill pasture. 

JVaffes. — Day-labourers, employed in ditching, draining, or 
roads, usually receive at the rate of 2d. per hour, or 9s. per week. 
Masons and carpenters from 2s. to 3s. per day ; men and women 
employed for harvest work, the former L.1, 10s. and the latter L.I, 

CAITHNESS. G 



98 CAlTllNESS-SniRE. 

with an allowance of meal and potatoes sufficient to support them 
until the crops are secured. Farm-servants obtain from L. 6 to 
L.8 a-year, according to their quali6cations, and 6 bolls of meal, 
together with potatoes and a little milk. Women for household, 
work are from L. 3 to L. 4 with their victuals, &c. in the family. 

Breeds of Live-Stock. — Much attention is now being paid to the 
improvement of the breeds of sheep and cattle. Cheviot sheep of the 
finest description are reared on the farms of Langwell and Dunbeath, 
and frequently obtain prizes at the shows at Inverness. On several 
corn farms, crosses between the Leicester and Cheviot breeds are be- 
coming common. The same system is pursued in respect to cattle, 
and the crosses most in repute are between the Teeswater and 
good Highlanders. For this description there is a ready demand 
at good prices, and, in all probability, the great attention now paid 
to the rearing of stock is only in its infancy. The great facilities 
now afforded for the conveyance of stock by steam to the Edin- 
burgh and London markets with such regularity and rapidity, is 
fast drawing forth the resources of this county generally, and every 
parish in particular. 

Husbandry. — Although the greater portion of the land is occu- 
pied by small tenantry, with whom the cultivation of the soil forms 
but a secondary concern, yet there are several extensive and well- 
managed farms in the parish, on which crops of the best descrip- 
tion are raised. The six- year shift is that in most general use, 
viz. turnip, barley or bear, two crops grass, one cut and the other 
pastured, and two crops oats, one of potato or Hopetoun, and the 
other of Angus or dun oats. Wheat is sometimes raised of good 
quality ; but in the general run of seasons it has not been found a 
profitable crop, owing chiefly to the want of sufficient warm wea- 
ther to bring it to maturity. Pease and beans are also tried, and 
sometimes succeed ; but they may be considered a very precarious 
crop, owing to the wet weather often experienced during harvest, 
when it is extremely difficult to secure them in a good state. 

Draining has of late been practised to a very great extent on 
the principal farms, and with evident advantage. For example, 
one small field of about four acres has been drained this year at 
an expense of about L.20. Even furrow draining has been tried 
on a small scale, and in all probability will become more general. 
Lime has been found most serviceable on dry lands, and has been 
a good deal in use ; but the depressed state of farm produce for 
many years back has operated as a great discouragement to the 



LATHEUON. 99 

use of this expensive but valuable manure. Considerable tracts 
of waste ground have been reclaimed by almost all the proprietors 
during tlie last twenty years ; chiefly, however, with the view of 
extending the farms under their o^n management. Among these 
improvements, none have been so perfectly executed as those on the 
beautiful estate of Lftngwell, by the late proprietor, James Home, 
Esq. A considerable portion was trenched at a great expense 
where the soil was shallow, and other parts of moor- ground, hav- 
ing from one to two feet of moss on the surface, were 6rst plough- 
ed, then burnt, and laid down with a large allowance of lime, 
carted a distance of ten miles. This was done twelve or fourteen 
years ago, and has never yet been turned up, yet it continues to 
retain a rich and close sward of pasture grass, without discovering 
any symptoms of relapsing into its original heath, as so general- 
ly happens when the work is done in a less perfect style. On the 
estates of Dunbeath, Latheronwheel, Forse, Lybster, and Clyth, 
much has also been done, though in a less expensive manner. 
The system pursued by the smaller tenantry has in several respects 
been improved of late. Instead of four small horses and a driver 
to every plough, two horses without a driver are now universal- 
ly used. And, instead of the clumsy awkward plough formerly 
in use, the neat iron plough is becoming very general. The land 
]f also better cleaned, although the rotation of oats and bear al- 
ternately is very little changed ; only a greater breadth of potatoes 
is planted, and good white and dun oats have supplanted the old 
black and gray inferior qualities. In a few cases also small patches 
of grass are sown out after potatoes. This practice would speedi- 
ly become general, were it not for the want of enclosures to pre- 
serve the grass from being injured during winter, and that there 
is no winter herding. 

Leases. — Leases of fourteen or nineteen years are granted on 
the larger farms, but the small tenantry generally hold their farms 
only from year to year — a system alike prejudicial to their com- 
forts, and the interests of the proprietor. Short leases are, how- 
ever, becoming more common, and will no doubt speedily become 
universal. 

The condition of some of the farm- buildings is excellent, others 
of them again are exceedingly bad. But, as in all other things con- 
nected with rural economy, there has been a progressive improve- 
ment of late. The same observations are applicable to the enclosures. 
These chiefly consist of stone fences, together with whin and thorn 



100 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

hedges. Most of the stone fences are old and decayed, and do not 
suit theimproved system of keeping a suitable portion of each 
farm under sheep. Should the present system be persevered in, 
as is most probable, they will require to be renewed. Indeed, this 
is to commence immediately on the farm of Clyth, the property 
of Sir George Sinclair, where a new farm-steading and proper en- 
closures are forthwith to be erected on a new lease of that excel- 
lent farm. All the new houses are slated, and in other respects 
very commodious. 

Improvements. — The principal improvements which have taken 
place within the last thirty years, in as far as agriculture is con- 
cerned, may be briefly enumerated as follows : fully 2000 acres of 
waste ground reclaimed ; better accommodations in farm-buildings; 
a vast extent of enclosures executed ; agriculture much more sys- 
tematically and advantageously pursued ; more attention given to 
the culture and clearing of the land ; draining practised much 
more extensively, and executed in a more skilful style; better breeds 
of horses, cows, and sheep ; superior facilities both for*expedition 
and security in conveying them to the southern markets ; a much 
wider breadth of turnips sown and heavier crops raised, and con- 
sequently a much larger quantity of stock reared and fed, and fit- 
ted in a much shorter time for the butcher. After shipping the 
stock at Wick in the morning, it is possible for thom to be shown 
in the Edinburgh market next afternoon ; thus accomplishing in 
the astonishingly short period of thirty hours what used to occupy 
nearly as many days, to the much greater damage of the stock. 

Great as these improvements are, nothing but the want of ca- 
pital prevents their proceeding at a much more rapid rate; and 
were additional encouragement to be given by proprietors, by grant- 
ing leases to the small tenantry on reasonable terms, a great deal 
more might be done, even upon the existing resources of the peo- 
ple. One of the greatest obstacles with which the spirit of im- 
provement has now to contend, is the non-residence of almost all 
the proprietors ; a circumstance which did not exist, to the same 
extent, until very recently ; and hence the same interest can hard- 
ly be expected to be taken, either in promoting the comforts of 
the inhabitants, or in reclaiming or ornamenting the lands. But it 
is hoped that this inconvenience may only be of short duration. 

Fisheries. — There are four descriptions of fisheries prosecuted in 
this parish, viz. the herring, cod, salmon, and lobster. Of these 
tbo herring-fishery is the most considerable, forming as it does. 



LATHERON. ' 101 

the principal source whence the revenue of the parish is derived. 
This fishing commences about the middle of July, when the her- 
ring usually make ^their appearance in small shoals on the coast, 
and continues till the middle of September. Great numbers of 
young men come from Assynt in Sutherlandshire, and Lochbroom 
and Lewis in Ross-shire, to engage as hired hands. They are 
employed by the owners of the boats to make up the boats' crew 
along with themselves, and receive from L. 3 to L. 4 each, for six 
weeks, besides their victuals. Each boat carries four men, and is 
furnished with from twenty to thirty-eight nets, according to the 
size of the boat. A good boat costs L. 50, and her drift of nets 
L. 76 ; a sum too large for one individual, and consequently there 
are generally two and sometimes more who share in the same boat 
They usually last in a seaworthy state about twelve years, and 
the nets six years. No employment can be prosecuted with great- 
er spirit and assiduity ; and few scenes are more enlivening, both 
on land and water, than it occasions, especially when any measure 
of success attends the labours of the fishermen. The boats usu- 
ally leave the shore from five o'clock to seven o'clock in the after- 
noon, according to the direction of the wind and the distance at which 
the fish are supposed to be found, and shoot their nets about dusk. 
In this state they remain, with the boat attached to each drift by 
means of a head rope, and slowly carried east or west by the tide, 
until about three o'clock the next morning. Then all hands are em- 
ployed in hauling in the nets and fish at the boat's stern, where 
they remain together, dispersed all over the boat, till it comes to 
shore, when they commence the operation of disengaging the fish 
from the meshes of the net, by shaking the nets. This ope- 
ration is frequently performed at the time of hauling the nets, 
should time and the weather permit. The herring being thus 
separated from the nets, are immediately landed and deposit- 
ed in the curing box, where a number of women are engaged in 
gutting and packing them in barrels with salt. Having deli- 
vered their fish, they bundle up their nets, carry them on shore, 
and spread them out carefully one over the other. Here they re- 
main to dry, until taken up again in the afternoon to be used as 
formerly. After securing their boats, they return to their homes, 
take some refreshment, and a few hours repose, as their time per- 
mits, and proceed to take up their nets, and put to sea again for 
the next night's fishing. In this manner they proceed for five suc- 
cessive nights, every week. Sometimes, however, when the quaa- 



102 CAlTUNESS-SillRE. 

tity offish to be delivered is large, they do not get to bed for days 
together. This makes it a very fatiguing and even oppressive em- 
ployment But the prospect of success is so very enticing, that 
it is submitted to with wonderful cheerfulness. 

The boats used in this pari^ may contain from SO to &0 crans 
or barrels (for both are nearly alike,) of herrings, and it is diffi- 
cult to say which of the sights is most pleasingly interesting to 
a stranger, that of beholding on a fine evening the whole coast, 
as far as the eye can reach, covered with human beings in their 
little barks, as they issue forth from every creek, and disperse in 
different directions, full of life ; or that of attending at one of the 
stations in the morning, and witnessing the return of 40, 60, or 
100 boats, all crowding into one credc, most of them, perhaps, 
laden with fish jto the gunwale, and then the scene of bustle and 
animation that succeeds and continues till night ! And what 
ought not to be omitted as being still more delightful to a serious* 
ly contemplative Qiind, it is not unusual, where there are boats 
having individuals of acknowledged piety, for the crew to en- 
gage in worship after shooting their nets. On these occasions 
a portion of a psalm is sung, followed with prayer, and the effect 
is represented as truly solemn and heart-stirring, as the melodious 
strains of the Gaelic music, carried along the surface of the 
waters, (several being similarly engaged,) spread throughout the 
whole fleet. 

But not uufrequently the scene is sadly reversed, for in the 
midst of the joys of life, we often are in death. A storm suddenly 
arises during the night. The boats are all riding quietly at their 
nets and unprepared to meet it. Some endeavour to haul their 
nets, others cut from them, and make for the place of great- 
est shelter, whilst others, afraid to put up sail and encounter it, 
abide by their nets in the hope of the storm's abating. In propor- 
tion to the danger at sea, are the confusion and anxiety on land. 
The shores are instantly crowded by inquiring relatives, hurrying 
from place to place in search of husbands, brothers, or sons. 
Astonishing instances of preservation of^en occur ; but no season 
passes without serious losses to individuals, either of boats, or nets, 
and sometimes of lives. The risks are very great, and the em- 
ployment, even when successful, most trying to the constitution* 

The following presents a pretty correct state of the fishing of 
1688 at the different stations in the parish. The fishing stations 
with the boats attached to each are, Dunbeatb, 76 ; Latheron- 



LATHE RON. 103 

wheel, 35; Fbrse, 32; Swiney, 10; Lybster, 101; Clytli, 53; 
and East Clyth, 18: in all 325 boats. Connected with these 
there are 1321 fishermen, 106 coopers, 937 women as packers^ 
and 178 labourers, in all 2540 persons, — besides about 50 fish cur- 
ers, miiny of whom take an active part in the business. The 
number of barrels cured at all these stations in 1838^ was 39,093, 
exclusive of the fish cured by the fishermen and others at their 
own houses, which may be estimated at about 2800 barrels,— ^be- 
sides quantities of green fish purchased at all the stations by 
strangers from all parts of the county in exchange for cash) milk^ 
butter, cheese, &c. &c. — say 907. The average price per cran 
of green fish was 9s., and that per barrel when cured, L.I. The 
barrels are made at the different stations, the hemp spun and the 
nets wrought in the fishermen's families during the winter and 
spring months. From all this, it may be conceived what an en- 
grossing and important concern the herring-fishing has become in 
this parish. 

But, notwithstanding these advantages, which are confessedly 
great in a temporal point of view, yet it is very doubtful whether 
they are not more than counterbalanced by the pernicious effects 
upon the morals of the people, which never fail to result from this 
employment, especially the young of both sexes. No doubt the 
sound religious education now becoming so general, has a ten- 
dency to counteract such habits. Indeed, this is already appa- 
rent, and it is to be hoped, if persevered in, will become still more 
so. At all events, as matters now stand, it is evident that the 
failure of the fishing would be attended with the most ruinous con- 
sequences, so that it becomes no less the duty than the interest of 
the landed proprietors, whilst encouraging the fishing, by which 
the value of land has been so greatly enhanced, to afford every 
practicable facility to the diffusion of knowledge, by means of edu- 
cation and religious instruction both to young and old. These 
have ever been found the best safeguards of morality in a country, 
and are the surest means of rearing and pepetuating an enlighten- 
ed, intelligent, and industrious peasantry. 

The cod-fishing is not carried on to any great extent, although 
there are immense quantities to be found on the coast, particu- 
larly at the commencement of the herring fishing. At this pe- 
riod there are a good many caught ; but as soon as the herring ap- 
pear in such numbers as to induce the fishermen to shoot their 
nets, then the cod-fishing is deserted, that of the herring being 



1 04 gAlTHNESS-SHIRE. 

much more proBtable. On an average there may be about 
10,000 cod cured in a season, for which 6d. each may be ob- 
tained. 

Lobsters also are in great abundance, and frequently many of 
them are taken in boxes; but this trade is little attended to, as the 
herring trade has been the all-engrossing business for many years 
back. 

There are two salmon-fishing stations in the parish, viz. al 
Berriedale and Dunbeath, the former belonging to Mr Home of 
Langwell, and the latter to Mr Sinclair of Freswick. At Berrie- 
dale, salmon and grilse are frequently caught in great abundance, 
particularly since the herring-fishing was discontinued there. It 
is rented by the Messrs Hogarth of Aberdeen, and the fishing at 
Dunbeath by Mr Martin of Dundee, the former at L. 275, and 
the latter at L.27. This great difference in rent is chiefly occa- 
sioned by the herring-fishing at the latter place having a ten- 
dency to annoy the fish, and frighten them from the shore. In 
other respects, Dunbeath seems the preferable station, as the chan- 
nel of the river is always open. The fish on both rivers are good ; 
that of Berriedale particularly so. Very few of them are sold in 
the parish, on account of the high price demanded ; salmon Is., and 
grilse 6d. per lb. They are kitted and sent to the London market. 

Raw Produce. — It is difficult to ascertain with accuracy the 
precise amount of raw produce raised in the parish ; but an attempt 
has been made to approach it pretty nearly, though with consider- 
able difficulty, under the following heads : 

Grain of all kinds, about 11,882 qrs. at L.l, 5s. per quarter, L. 14,852 

Potatoes. 4535 bolls, at IDs. per boll, . . 2,267 10 

Turnips, 236 acres, at L.6 per acre, . . 1416 

Hay, meadow and cultivated, 40,300 stones, at 6d. per stone, 1,007 10 

Land in pasture to graze, 3765 cows, at L.l each, . 3,765 

Do. do. 12,000 sheep, at 5s. each, 3^000 

Fisheries — herring, 42,800 crans, at 9s. per cran, . 19,260 

Do. cod, 10,000, at 6d. each, L.250, ; salmon rented at L.302, 552 

Miscellaneous produce not enumerated above, 750 



Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L.46,870 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Town. — There is no market-town in the parish. The 
nearest to it is Wick, the county town, which is at the medium 
distance of twenty miles. Several villages have been projected, 
but none of them have yet arisen to any consequence except Lyb- 
ster, which contains many excellent houses, and a population of 
fully 400 individuals. Several new buildings are now in progress, 
and many of the inhabitants are very respectable. It was com- 



LATHEUON. 105 

'tnenced by the late proprietor, Lieutenant- General Sinclair, in 
1802 ; but it is^only within the last twenty years that the spirit of 
improyement has been particularly called forth. It is now a ris- 
ing place, and evidently promises to be of considerable conse- 
quence at no very distant period, should the herring*fishing con- 
tinue to floupish, of which there is every prospect. 

Means of Communication. — There are two post-offices in. the 
parish, viz. Dunbeath and Lybster, the former of old establish- 
ment, and the latter more recent. 

The great north road runs from one extremity of the parish to the 
other, a distance of twenty-eight miles along the coast, and is of im- 
mense importance in facilitating the means of communication. The 
mail-coach from Inverness to Thurso has continued to run since 
the completion of this road, about twenty-two years ago. The 
weekly communication by steam from Leith and Aberdeen to 
Wick and Orkney, has considerably lessened the number of pas- 
sengers by the coach. 

The bridges along the Parliamentary and county roads are kept 
in excellent repair. 

Harbours. — Considering the vast importance of this coast in a 
commercial point of view, the great number of vessels that fre- 
quent it in connection with the fisheries, and the many risks to 
which life and property are exposed in consequence of its bold, 
rocky, and exposed character, it is much to be regretted that so 
little has hitherto been done in order to obtain safe and commo- 
dious harbours. With the exception of a neat little pier at Clyth, 
which is occasionally of service in loading vessels in very mode- 
rate weather, the only attempt that has yet been made in this way 
is at Lybster, where the proprietor, T. Frederick Sinclair, Esq. has, 
in a very spirited manner, and at considerable expense, been en- 
gaged for several years, back in providing a harbour for the en- 
couragement of the increasing trade and population of that place. 
This has been effected by running a stone pier of about 300 feet 
in length along the west bank of a rivulet which runs into the sea 
at this place, and which formerly was usually choked up by the 
shifting beach, now confined behind the pier. By this means 
shelter and accommodation have been effected for upwards of one 
hundred boats of from ten to fifteen tons burden, besides admit- 
ting decked vessels of one hundred tons burden. Within the last 
three years, from sixty to eighty of the latter have loaded and dis- 
charged cargoes during the summer arid harvest seasons ; and il 



106 CAITUNESS-SUIRE* 

is supposed that it is practicable, by a small additional outlay, to 
deepen the harbour so as to receive vessels of the necessary ton- 
nage even at low water. The value of such an improvement on 
the coast would be incalculable, considering the thousands of in- 
dividuals engaged in the herring fishing. At present, there is not 
a single place to run to at low water, when vessels or boats are 
suddenly overtaken with a heavy storm, as not unfrequently hap- 
pens, to the great loss of life and property. Dunbeath is also 
remarkably well calculated for a harbour, and in all probability 
the time cannot be &r distant, when something on an extensive 
scale will be attempted there. Nature has done her part admir- 
ably, and it only requires the hand of art to turn her varied re- 
sources to good account. Petitions have this year been numerous- 
ly signed and sent to the Admiralty, praying the appointment of 
a survey of this coast, in order to select one or more of the fittest 
stations with the view of erecting harbours for the protection of 
property, and the lives of the fishermen, now exposed to such im- 
minent hazard. Should these applications succeed, as it is to be 
hoped they eventually will, then a new era will arise with rospect 
to agricultural and commercial pursuits, and it will only requiro 
the united eflbrfs of enterprising and intelligent men to occupy 
the field thus opened up, and call forth a spirit of industry hither- 
to unexampled in this quarter. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated close by the 
sea, and is seventeen miles from the western extremity of the pa- 
rish, eleven miles from the eastern, and ten from the northern ex- 
tremity. It is, however, sufficiently centrical for the population, 
though it must be obvious, from the great territorial extent, that 
comparatively few of the inhabitants, were they solely dependent 
upon it, could derive much benefit on account of the distance to 
which they are removed. The church seems to have been built 
about the year 1734. It received a large addition by way of an 
aisle in lb22, and was, besides, new roofed and new seated. It may 
contain about 900 sitters, and no seat-rents have been demanded 
since it received extensive repairs in 1822. It is one of the larg- 
est and most commodious country churches in the county. The 
only thing wanted to ite comfort is that of having it ceiled above, 
which it is hoped may, ere long, be accomplisjied. 

The manse was built about forty years ago, and is a substantial 
building, with sufficient accommodation. The glebe consists of 
16 acres of arable land. Its extent was a little increased by an 



LATHEUON. 107 

excambioD about fourteen years ago^ and it may be worth about L.20 
per auDum. The amount of the stipend is 16 chalders, the one-half 
meal and the other barley, with L.10 for communion elements. 

As stated under a former head, there is a Goremment church 
at Berriedale, in the west end of the parish. It was built in 1826, 
and accommodates 300 sitters. The district connected with k 
now forms a quoad sacra parish. In consequence of some of the 
families having been removed since the church was built, it is now 
too remote for the more populous districts connected with it, but 
is, notwithstanding, still very useful ; and were a small church to 
be erected in the eastern quarter, where the minister could preach 
every alternate Sabbath, it would be still more so. There is an 
excellent manse near the church, as also a garden and small 
glebe. Both the latter were furnished by the late proprietor Mr 
Home of Langwell, and are continued by his successor Mr Do- 
nald Home. The stipend, amounting to L. 120, is paid by Govern- 
ment, and the population is fully 1400. There was also a church 
built at the village of Lybster in 1836 by subscription, and the 
district connected with it constituted a parish quoad sacra. It is four 
miles east of the parish church, has a regular minister settled in 
it, and a population exceeding 2500 souls. A manse has not yet 
been built, nor a glebe assigned, but the minister has been pro- 
vided with a good house in the meantime, and a stipend of L.100 
per annum, which is paid from the seat-rents. The church is a 
neat, commodious, and well-finished building, constructed of the 
best materials. It contains 805 sitters, and the contract price was 
L. 830, all of which was cleared off the same year in which the 
house was finished. Its great utility in that district is universally 
acknowledged. All the seats are let, the church crowded, and 
yet the parish church as well attended as formerly. This is the 
only attempt hitherto made, on the Church extension plan, in any 
of the counties north of Inverness, and it has succeeded far beyond 
the most sanguine expectations of its promoters. How long the 
people, who are almost all composed of the poor and working 
classes, may be able to afford seat-rents equal to their minister's 
stipend, must depend upon the future success of the herring- fish- 
ing. It is hoped, however, that Government will ere long see the 
expediency and necessity of appropriating a small sum by way of 
stipend to assist such necessitous places. The proprietors con- 
nected with the district contributed liberally towards its erection, 
as also several others both in and out of the parish, together with 



108 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

the whole body of the inhabitants of this and the other parishes of 
the county. It was a favourite measure, in which all felt interest- 
ed; and it would have delighted the writer to record here the 
names of all the principal subscribers, could it be admitted, in tes- 
timony of the grateful sense he entertains of the handsome and 
cordial manner in which bis appeals in behalf of this important 
object were responded to by all classes. 

There is a mission on the establishment of the Society in Scot- 
land for Propagating Christian Knowledge, at Bruan, in the east- 
ern extremity of the parish. This station was formerly connected 
with Berriedale, where the missionary resides. The disjunction 
took place in 1826, when the Government church was erected at 
the latter place. A comfortable manse has been erected at Bruan 
for the missionary, which cost L.2d2, and the expense was defrayed 
by the people connected with the district. A glebe of four acres 
of excellent land was handsomely made over to the mission by the 
late Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart., whose estates are chiefly 
benefited thereby. The mission-house stands on the boundary 
betwixt this parish and Wick, and now accommodates about an 
equal number from each parish. The church is seated for 600. 
The population from both parishes is 1800, and the mission is one 
of the most compact anywhere to be found. The present mis- 
sionary's stipend has recently been augmented to L.100, only L.25 
of which is paid by the Society — the remainder is paid, or at least 
promised, by the people, and raised from the seat-rents as far as 
these can be realized. This district also ought to be made a parish 
quoad sacra^ more especially as it is now completely disjoined from 
the parish church, by that of Lybster intervening betwixt them. 

About 350 of the inhabitants of the interior of the parish are 
connected with the Royal Bounty Mission of Dirlot, in the parish 
of Halkirk, and attend public worship at the meeting-house of 
Halsary, where a new and more suitable house is about to be built, 
and is much needed. 

There are four catechists in the parish. They are appointed 
by the kirk-sessions, with the consent and approbation of the peo- 
ple among whom they labour, and by whom they are paid. There 
are no Dissenting or Seceding chapels in the parish. An attempt 
was made a few years ago to introduce dissent into the village of 
Lybster, where the most strenuous exertions were made and great 
expense incurred by the United Secession body to establish a con- 
gregation, but it has signally failed, and is now given up as hope* 



LATHERON* 103 

less. This might have been foreseen from first, as there were no 
members of that or any other Dissenting denomination there, and 
the inhabitants generally neither desired nor countenanced such 
a measure. * With the exception of a few strangers who may 
settle among them, the people are most devotedly and con- 
scientiously attached to the Established Church, to which the 
whole population of 8000 belong, with the exception of about 
twelve families in the eastern extremity of the parish. One, and 
sometimes both the heads of these families usuallv attend the Se- 
cession church at Wick, but the young people belonging to them 
generally attend at the mission of Bruan on Sabbath. Consider- 
ing the poverty of many of the inhabitants, excepting those from, 
the very remote districts where meetings are frequently kept by 
the catechists or others for the convenience of the people, divine 
service is remarkably well attended in the several places of wor- 
ship. On this subject it is recorded, with peculiar satisfac- 
tion, that, within the last few years, a marked improvement has. 
taken place in the attendance of the young, and there is every, 
reason to hope that it will be progressive. This is to be attribut- 
ed not merely to the public exhortations addressed to parents 
from the pulpit, but also to the more than ordinary attention of 
the parochial and other schoolmasters in inculcating this most im- 
portant duty upon their scholars. 

The average number of communicants has varied from 130 to 
180 during the last seven years. The fewness of their number is 
to be ascribed to the feelings of reverential awe with which they 
view this solemn ordinance, and the diflBdence they experience as 
to their being possessed of the necessary qualifications for engag- 
ing in it. 

The yearly collections for the poor may be averaged at L. 52, 
and those for religious purposes at L. 30. 

Education. — Hitherto there has been only one parochial school 
in this extensive parish. There are, however, 14 unendowed and 
three Society schools ; two supported by the General Assembly, 
and one by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Know- 
ledge ; in all 18, besides a few female schools where reading as well 
as needle-work is taught. The languages nnd the higher branches 
of mathematics are taught in the parochial and Assembly's schools, 

• Since the above was written, the United Secession have returned to Lybster, in 
the hope of better success, as the church there is about becoming vacant, by the 
translation of its able and popular minister to the Gaelic Church in Edinburgh. 



110 CAITHNESS-SHIUE. 

when required ; but only the elementary branches in those unen- 
dowed ; and many of the latter, being in remote districts, where the 
people are very poor, are kept open during only six months of the 
year, viz. winter and spring. In all the schools the Scriptures 
are read daily, and the catechisms taught. The salary of the pa* 
rish teacher is the maximum, and the fees may amount to from 
L. 20 to L. 30 a year. That of the Society teachers is from L,2Qf 
to L. 25 each, and their fees from L.8 to L.10. The unendowed 
teachers are by far the worst paid ; their emoluments may average 
from L. 3 to L. 4, including fees, though usually they have their 
victuals in addition. From the smallness of their emoluments it will 
readily be conceived that the acquiremeuts of these teachers can- 
not be great. They are selected from the most talented and pro- 
mising of the scholars in attendance at the parish school, where 
they are again to be found in attendance how soon their own schools 
close in the beginning of summer. Here they spend the sum- 
mer and harvest in revising their former studies, and adding as 
much as possible to their stock of already acquired knowledge. 
By these means they return with fresh vigour and increased re- 
sources to their former stations in winter. Thus they continue to 
advance in the higher branches of education, until qualiBed for the 
Society or even parochial schools. But to these schools again, 
the different districts look for other young men to supply their 
places, so that the district schools are a kind of nurseries for the 
more advanced seminaries, which in their turn liberally repay the 
debt they have incurred. There have been five of these district 
teachers prosecuting their studies most creditably at the university 
for several years back. 

It is proper to notice that there is another parochial school 
being built at Dunbeath, in connection with the Government pa- 
rish of Berriedale. Mr Sinclair of Freswick, at the recommen- 
dation of his curators, has, in the handsomest manner, agreed to 
bear the whole expense of furnishing the necessary accommoda- 
tions. These will at least cost L.300 ; they are upon a scale more 
than ordinarily liberal^ and will be finished this season. The be- 
nefits to result from such an establishment in that quarter, it is 
diflScult to calculate, and the example of Mr Sinclair and his li- 
beral minded curators cannot be too highly recommended. From 
the exertions made in furnishing the means of education, there 
are few of the young who cannot read ; the greater number also 
learn to write ; but among those who are far advanced in life. 



LATHERON. Ill 

there is a considerable number who can neither read nor writei 
The people in general are certainly alive to the benefits that 
arise from a good education, and therefore make considerable ex- 
ertions, according to their small means, for supporting schools 
among them. No doubt several of the unendowed schools are 
of very inferior quality, as may be expected from the trifling re- 
muneration that some districts can afford, so that what is wanted 
is not so much additional schools as additional salaries, and con- 
sequently better qualified teachers. Without the former, it is 
hopeless to attempt to raise the character of the latter beyond 
what has already been done. There are four stations at least, 
where Society schools could be most advantageously located, and 
for which applications have frequently been made, though hitherto 
without efiect. It has already been observed, that the improve- 
ment in the conduct and morals of the young people is everywhere 
recognized by those who are acquainted with the parish'; and that 
this change is in a great measure to be ascribed to the additional 
facilities and improved system of education, cannot be doubted* 
The proprietors have already done much, and it is to be hoped, 
that the altered state of society for the better will encourage them 
to persevere, until all the scattered hamlets of this extensive and 
populous parish, second perhaps to no landward parish in Scot- 
land, are brought under the influence of a sound, moral, and re- 
ligious education. 

Having already noticed the recent improvements of an agri- 
cultural nature under that head, it may not be improper here to 
enumerate briefly those of an ecclesiastical and educational na- 
ture, which have taken place during the last twenty years, being 
the period of the incumbency of the present writer. The parish 
church, remodelled and greatly enlarged, — a Government church, 
manse, and glebe, established at Berriedale, and that district 
formed into a quoad sacra parish, with a separate minister, — a 
new church built at Lybster, with a separate minister settled 
there, and also formed into a quoad sacra parish, — the mission 
of Bruan, confined to that station, instead of two as formerly, and 
a commodious manse built for the missionary, with a suitable 
glebe attached ; — all of these ministers, actively and laboriously 
engaged in communicating religious instruction, and discharging 
the duties of pastoral superintendence among the people. As to 
education, there has been a new parish school with schoolmaster's 
accommodation erected ; another parochial school in the course 




1 12 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

of erection at Dunbeath ; an Assembly school established at Ber- 
riedale, with schoolmaster's accommodation ; another Assembly 
school similarly provided at Reisgill, together with eight unen- 
dowed schools in different localities; the general qualifications 
of the teachers considerably raised ; the system of teaching Tastly 
improved ; and, consequently, the number of scholars almost in- 
credibly increased : the general average exceeds 1200. But still 
much remains to be done in both departments ; and as it is pleas* 
ing to reflect, that, in carrying forward these improvements, the 
harmony and good understanding subsisting betwixt the heritors 
and the present incumbent, have never been interrupted ; a circum- 
stance not a little creditable to the heritors, considering how many 
demands were necessarily made upon them ; so it is to be hoped 
that the same cordiality and good feeling will be mutually main- 
tained in prosecuting those that are still in contemplation. The 
readiness with which they have promoted these improvements, is 
very commendable. 

Friendly Societies. — There are two of these of long standing, 
one at Dunbeath and the other at Lybster. In many instances 
they have been remarkably useful, both in respect to widows and 
orphans, and also the aged and infirm ; but for several years back, 
they have not been becoming more flourishing, either as to members 
or funds. However, it is to be hoped that they may yet revive. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons at present 
on the poor's roll is 202 ; each of whom only receives at the rate 
of from 4s. to 8s. at the time of distribution, which is once a-vear. 
Such of them as are able, make their rounds through the parish 
occasionally, in order to obtain aid from those families whose cir- 
cumstances enable them to assist them ; and those that are bed- 
ridden or infirm have assistance sent them by the charitable and 
well disposed around them. There beingno parochial assessment, 
the collections made at the church doors, together with the inte- 
rest arising from a few benefactions, furnish the funds from which 
the poor receive the small pittance which can be assigned them. 
The average church collections may amount to L. 52 yearly, and 
the interest from benefactions to L. 18. The latter consist of 
L. 100, left many years ago, by the late Rev. Dr James Oswald 
of Glasgow ; L. 100 by the late John C. Sutherland, Esq. of 
Forse in this parish ; L. 100 by Conductor Sutherland of North 
America ; and L. 40 by Mr Alexander Finlaysou Macdonald of 
same place. Much to the credit of the poorer classes, they very 



LATHERON. 113 

generally manifest a strong disinclination to seek relief from the 
poor's funds. There is a degree of virtuous pride, as well as 
strong natural affection very prevalent, which induces the children 
to support their aged and infirm parents to the utmost of their abi- 
lity ; and when applications are made for parochial relief, the 
cases are usually found to be very necessitous. This feeling is 
always encpuraged, and its opposite discountenanced by the kirk- 
session, by every possible means. Hence, in ordinary seasons, 
very few indeed apply for certificates of poverty ; and it is truly as- 
tonishing among such a large population, almost solely composed 
of the poorer classes, how very few are to be met with, asking cha- 
rity. The numbers of this description from the south are very 
great, and generally of very indifferent character ; but resolutions 
have recently been entered into by the county gentlemen, with a 
view of checking this great grievance, which, it is hoped, will have 
the desired effect. No year passes without many gross deceptions 
being practised upon the unsuspecting inhabitants, by designing 
persons of this description. . 

Fairs. — There are four fairs held in the parish for general pur- 
poses, two at Dunbeath and two at Lybster, during the year. 

/n7W.^There are not fewer than 26 public-houses, for retail- 
ing spirits, &c. in the parish, when six would have been quite 
sufficient for every necessary purpose. 

PueL — Almost all the fuel used consists of peats. The ex- 
pense attending its manufacture and carriage makes it ultimately 
very little cheaper than coal ; only, it is more convenient, being 
always at hand. 

October 1840. 



Addenda. 

The following is a list of the Ministers of the parish : — 1637^ 
Gilbert Anderson; Mr Munro; 1652, John Ross, translat- 
ed to Inverness in 1663; 1667, Niel Beaton, died 1715; 1717, 
Andrew Sutheriand, died 1732; 1734, James Brodie, died 1773; 
1775, Robert Gun, died 1819; 1820, George Davidson. 

There are no Crown teinds in Latheron; but there are unap- 
propriated teinds belonging to other persons, which amount to 
nearlv L.400. 

CAITHNESS. H 



PARISH OF BOWER. 

rRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND 

CAITHNESS. 

THE REV. WILLIAM SMITH, A. M., MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
NamCi S;c. — The name of the parisli is supposed to be derived 
from a Danish word signifying a valley. Its extent is 7 miles in 
length and 3 in breadth. 

IL — Civil History. 

State of Property and Antiquities^ ^c. — The boundary of the 
parish was Formerly, in the greater part of its extent, the boundary 
of distinct properties. 

The estates of Tister (formerly written Thuspisteer,) and 
NurthGeld, in this parish, connected with Durran, in the parish 
of Ulrick, had belonged to the family of Mr Sinclair Worth of 
Durran. Both of these estates are now the property of the Earl 
of Caithness. 

The property of Lyth, in this parish, separated by a burn only 
from How and Myreland, in the parish of Wick, belongs to Mr Sin- 
clair of Barrack. That of Bowermaddon, and half of Mursav, 
in this parish, have been added to Tain and Hoy, in the parish of 
Olrick. 

The boundary of Bowermaddon and Mursay was supposed to 
extend to the burn of Amatan ; and the intervening house and 
farm of Hartfield is partly in this parish, and partly in that of 
Dunnet. The mills on these two last have been pulled down, 
and a new one erected in place of them, on the boundary of 
Bowermaddon. 

The estate of Scarmclet, on the south-west side of this parish, 
has been acquired by Sir R. Ansti*uther, and added to his property 
of Dunn, in the parish of Watten, and improved by a new farm 
at Blackcarn, beyond Larel, and a steading of buildings at Bleedy- 
quoy, and the erection of an excellent new mill. On the pre- 
mises on which the old mill stood. Sir Ralph Anstruther has 
caused a i^chool-house to be built. 



BOWER. 115 

The improvements formerly begun on the estates of Scarm- 
clet and Clayock, by the late Lieutenant- Colonel Benjamin 
Williamson of Banneskirk, have been considerably advanced by 
Sir Ralph Anstruther, by the erection of new farms and stead- 
ings, and dividing the possessions of the tenants by ditches 6 feet 
wide by 3 feet deep, which preclude the encroachments of cattle, 
and lay the land dry. Mr Henderson of Stempster has inclosed 
many acres 'by ditches, and improved his property by digging marl 
pits. 

The estate of Brabsterdorran (said once to have belonged to 
the earldom of Caithness) was lately, acquired from that of South 
Dunn, by Colonel Stewart of Strath, and resold to David Hen- 
derson, younger of Stempster : it is now more than four or five 
times the value of what it was wlien it belonged to the late Mrs 
Henrietta Sinclair Wemyss of South Dunn. 

The improvements begun on it by General Stewart, by the 
erection of a dwelling and offices on the site of the old mansion, 
some hedging, draining, and road-making, have been further ad- 
vanced, and the mains enlarged, with extended tillage, fallowing, 
and enclosures with stone ^and turf dikes, as also drains ; on the 
Mains, there were added a steading of offices, and a thrashing-mill 
driven by water, besides a new farm at lower Gillock, bounding 
with Lower Scarmclet and Quoynce. 

On the hill-ground to the east, beyond Brabster and Lister, at 
nearly equal distance from Brabster, Campster, and Belster of 
Lord Caithness's property, is placed the standing-stone called 
Stone Ludd, which, by an old tradition, is supposed to be the me- 
morial of a battle fought and gained. 

Torfaeus mentions a fight begun in the moss of Skitten, (paludi^ 
bits Skidensibus^) now oftener called Kilmster, by two brothers for 
the Earldom of Caithness, — Liotus, the elder, being supported in 
his right by the King of Norway, — Scullius, the younger, being aid- 
ed by the King of Scotland. It is said that the younger was slain 
in battle, and buried in Hofn, probably Stone Hone, near Wat- 
ten ; and that the elder, victorious brother, was mortally wounded. 
It is not improbable that the stone was raised as a memorial of 
Liotus, the Earl of Caithness and Orkney, in the tenth century. 

The lands of Bowertower and Auckhorn, Seater, Hastigrow, 
Kirk, and Stanstill, with Whitegan, belong to David Sinclair 
Wemyss of South Dunn, and still make up the highest share of the 
valuation of the parish. The mansion-house of Stanstill is let to a 



1 16 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

tenant, with the mains enlarged, and a new square of offices, and 
thrashing-mill driven by horses. 

The estate of Thura was, within the last forty years, purchas- 
ed by the late William Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick. It is now the 
property of his son. The Mains have been lately improved by 
drains and extended enclosures. 

Among the improvements in this parish, those carried on by 
John Sinclair of Barrack, on the property of Lyth and Alterwall, 
may be reckoned the greatest He has added several hundred 
acres to the land in his own possession, laid much ground dry, 
multiplied enclosures, and on some of the pastures for sheep added 
wire fences, besides erecting a new mansion-house, and squares of 
farm-steadings. 

III. — Population. 

Population by census uf 1801, - 1572 

1811, . 1478 

1821, - 1486 

1881, - 1615 

Number of families in the parish in 1831, • . . 296 

chiefly engaged in agriculture, 161 
in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, . 19 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — All that the writer has to observe on this subject 

will be found under the head Civil History of this Account. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State. — Amount of stipend, 14 chalders. Value 
of the glebe per annum, L.5. There are only six Dissenting or 
Seceding families in the parish. 

Education. — There are four schools in the parish, one of which 
is parochial, and another a General Assembly's school. The sa- 
lary of the parochial master, including the amount of an equiva- 
lent for garden, is L.3d, 1 6s. 2d., and his school fees may amount 
to L.14 per annum. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — Average number of poor for the 
three years 1835-56-37, — 53. Average amount of the sum dis- 
tributed for their support, L.18, l4s. 9d. This consists of church 
collections, and interest of Dr Oswald's legacy of L.100. 

October 1840. 



PARISH OF WICK. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF CAITHNESS AND 

SUTHERLAND. 

THE REV. CHARLES THOMSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, — The vocable toic in Danish, Saxon, and other northern 
languages of Gothic origin, signifies a corner^ a flexure^ n bending 
reach in a river, a bay. Hence the derivation of Wick, formerly 
spelled Weik, which has always been the name of this parish, is 
obvious. A well-defined and rather beautiful little wicy or bay, 
which, no doubt, formed a comparatively safe and commodious 
harbour to the Danish and Norwegian pirates* of ancient days, 
communicated its appellation to the village which gradually rose 
on its northern shore ; and, finally, the name was extended to the 
whole parochial district which, ultimately, became connected with 
the town. 

Extent. — The parish of Wick is 15J miles in extreme length 
from north to south ; its average breadth is about 5 miles ; and its 
superficial extent may be estimated at 77 square miles, or 61,600 
imperial acres. 

Boundaries, — The parish of Wick is bounded, on the south by 
the parish of Latheron ; on the south-west, by the parish of 
Wattin ; on the north-west, by the parish of Bower ; on the 
north, by the parish of Canisbay ; and on the east, by the Moray 
Frith. 

Coast, — The coast of this parish presents along its line, which 
is about twenty-six miles in length, a great variety of features. Near 
the northern extremity, on the townland, or estate of Nybster, it 
is formed by lofty rugged rocks. These are succeeded by gently 
sloping fields, on the northern limit of the Bay of Keiss. Almost 
the whole of the shore on the bosom of this capacious bay is low, 

* The northern pirates received the name of Vikingr^ that is bay-men, because 
they lurked in the tificgy or bays. Wick is yet in use in the Scottish dialect, as the 
wick o' the mouth, the wick o* the ee. 



118 CAITHMCSS-SUIUK. 

and formed of flinty sand. Towards the southern side, it is com. 
posed of comminuted shells. The coast now becomes bold and 
rocky till it reaches the Noss, or, as it is usually, but tauto- 
logically, styled, Noss-Head. From Noss to Staxigoe it is 
composed of lofty, black, and fugged rocks, which are continued 
with more or less of the same savage character to Proudfoot, the 
northern side of the entrance to the Bay of Wick* At the Head 
of Wick, opposite to Proudfoot, the same kind of rugged, rocky 
coast recommences, and continues, with but trifling interruptions, 
till it passes beyond the southern boundary of the parish. On the 
coast of the parish of Wick, there are numerous goes^'* or small 
inlets of the sea, with steep and rocky sides. Commencing at 
the south side of Keiss Bay, the principal of these, between it 
and Noss-Head, are Braidgoe; Caldersgoe; Sclatygoe; Ruthigoe; 
Girnigoe, crowned with the hideous ruins of Castle Sinclair and 
Girnigoe, the principal ancient baronial stronghold of the Sinclain;, 
Earls of Caithness ; Manigoe, supposed to be properly Moneygoe, 
because it is reported, and the fact, that in it several parcels of base 
copper coins have at different times been found, corroborates the 
tradition, that Earl George the Wicked entertained in it one 
Smith, a coiner of bad money ; Sandygoe ; and Mursligoe, the 
cove frequented by seals. An entrance from this goe leads under 
a small rock, by a dry passage, into an immense cavern under 
Noss-Head. Between this headland and Broad Haven, are 
Staxigoe, so called from some Stacks, or detached rocks, which 
rise above the sea at its entrance ; and Eltrigoe. Papigoe lies in 
the Bay of Wick. A passage is said to lead a considerable way 
from the sea, to a small knoll called the Pap, whence the name 
of Papigoe. 

On the shore to the south of Wick Bay, lies a black and frightftil 
chasm, on which stands the dismantled tower of Auld Wick. At 
sea, this ruin forms an excellent landmark, and is by sailors called 
the Aul' Man o' Wick. Southward from Auld Wick is the Burgh 
of Hempriggs, so called from its having been in very ancient times 
the site of a bruchy or fort, the traces of which are still visible. 
It forms a small fishing haven. In the mouth of it stand the 
Stacks of Hempriggs. The principal of these is an immense 
outstanding rock, perforated from side to side, and from top to 
bottom ; the resort, in the breeding season, of innumerable sea- 

• This ancient relic of Norwegian colonization is pronounced in one syllable, 
with the ff bard, as if written g^oet. 



WICK. 119 

fowl ; atid always of a pair or two of merlin hawks. The Brig o 
Tram, Craig- Ammel, Brickigoe, and Falligoe, near the southern 
termination of the parochial coast, are some of its more interesting 
features. 

Keiss Bay, called also Reiss Bay, from the townland of Reiss» 
which lies upon it ; Ackergill Bay, from the noble Tower of Acker- 
gill, which stands on its shore, and likewise Sinclair Bay, from 
the neighbourhood of Castle Sinclair and Gimigoe ; and the Bay 
of Wick are the only two bays on the coast The former is by 
far the larger. Ships have often been stranded on its shore. 
This has arisen from its having been mistaken for the eastern en- 
trance of the Pentland Frith. A lighthouse ought to be erected 
on Noss-Head. 

This dangerous promontory, Proudfoot, the Head of Wick, 
and Ulbster Head, are the most important headlands on the 
coast 

Surface. — The surface of the parish of Wick is in general flat, 
or but very gently sloping in different directions. The northern 
parts generally face the south, and the southern have a northern and 
north-eastern exposure, as shown by the run of the water. Its aspect 
is bleak, unpicturesque, and tame. The heights of Yarrows and 
Camster, towards the south-west of the parish, are the only hills 
deserving of the name. Their elevation above the sea is conside- 
rable ; but their appearance is dull and heavy. 

A spacious valley, forming the fertile strath of Stirkoke, stretches 
in a westerly direction from the Bay of Wick to the Loch of Wat- 
tin, — a distance of about twelve miles, without ever attaining an 
elevation of more than 60 feet above the level of the sea. Half 
a mile above Wick, a similar valley, running southwards in a cir- 
eumlinear direction, and keeping nearly parallel to the sea coast, 
but bending a little more to the west, arrives at a somewhat greater 
elevation at its southern extremity, than the former. Another val- 
ley, containing thcdeep and extensive moss of Kilminster, separates 
the parishes of Wick and Bower. 

Meteorology. — The climate of this parish is that of the whole of 
Caithness, — very windy, humid, and variable. The average num- 
ber of days in the year with rain is 190 ; with snow, 36i ; and with 
frost, 35. The fall of rain is pretty equally distributed through- 
out the twelve months. The quantity of rain that fell in 1840, 
from the 1st of January to the 3lst of December inclusively, was 
as follows : — 



120 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

Montln. Inches. Mooths. Inches. Months. ^"^^'S 

January, - 4.85 May. - 2.86 SfP^T*^'' ' ^f^ 

Kehruiy, • 1.56 June. - 1.99 October^ - ^18 

March/ . .78 July. - 3 JJ^^*"^'' " f^i 

April, - .97 August. . 2.43 December, - 1.74 

Total, 35 inches and 29 decimal parts, or rather more than one- 
fourth of an inch. 

Fogs, which are often very dense and wetting, generally come 
from the east They seldom last above an hour or two. This is 
owing to the breezy character of the weather, The days with fog 
amount in the year to 35. Westerly winds prevail. The winter 
is in general windy. In the beginning and the fall of the year, it 
is often exceedingly tempestuous. The following table, calculated 
fwm observations made for several years, will give some intimation 
of the various atmospherical conditions of the climate of this part 
of Scotland. 

Barometer. Spring. Summer. Autumn. Winter. 

Mean average, - 30.04 30.12 30.05 29.94 



Highest, 



30.85 30.80 30.70 30.70 



Lowest, - - 29 00 29.40 28.90 28.90 

Range, - - 180 1.85 1.40 1.80 

lliermometer. 

Mean average, - 47'' 564« 56" 65« . 

Highest, . - 58 70i 65 55 

Lowest, - - 32 52 44 33 

Range, . - 26 184 21 22- 

Prevailing winds, S.£. to S. W. to N. S.E. to S. S. to N. W. 

&N.W. &N.E. & N.W. 

Days with rain. - 42 50 51 47 

Days with snow, • 184 ^ ^ 16 

Days with frost, .14 1 20 

Days with fog, - 8 9 6 8 

It appears from this table that the range of the barometer is least 
in summer, and of almost equal extent in the other three quarters, 
and that of the thermometer is nearly equal throughout the year ; 
the greatest range of each instrument being in spring. The range 
of the prevalent winds in winter is very circumscribed. In spring 
and autumn, they go round half the compass, and in the same 
direction firom south-east by south to north-west. In summer, 
their range is also limited, but not to such a degree as in 
winter. 

The winters are becoming milder and more open than they for- 
merly were. The number of days in the year with frost, and of 
those with snow, is decreasing. This present winter, however, has 
been very severe ; much more so, indeed, than any preceding win- 



WICK. 121 

ter in the memory of the oldest inhabitants. Snow seldom falls 
for more than a day, or lies above two days, at a time. Thunder 
is very rare. It generally occurs at a great distance ; and light- 
ning seldom strikes or does any injury. 

In 1784, a halo, ^^ superbly bright and luminous, consisting of 
two bows, concentric, with an apparent interval of from three to 
four feet between them, and extending over a great part of the 
hemisphere, was distinctly seen." ♦ What are usually called fall- 
ing stars are frequently seen shooting across the nocturnal sky. 
The polar lights are visible almost every night, and generally pre- 
vent it from ever being very dark. 

Diseases. — Fevers, rheumatism, pleuritis, catarrh, cough, inflam- 
mation of the throat, are amongst the most numerous of the diseases. 
Pulmonary consumption is not frequent amongst adults ; but in- 
fants with any weakness about the chest are generally carried off in 
childhood by hooping-cough, which is often very general and fatal, 
or by different pectoral affections. Rheumatism was not common 
till about the beginning of the present century, when the homely 
warm woollen clothing of olden times began to give place to the 
flimsier though gayer cotton dresses, which are now very generally 
worn. Itch is exceedingly prevalent among the children. The 
kind of food on which the lower orders chiefly subsist, the state of 
their habitations, the scantiness of their clothing, and their indif- 
ference to cleanliness, along with the contagious nature of the 
complaint, sufiiciently account for this. Fever of a typhoid type 
is seldom absent from one lane or other in the burgh of Wick, 
Louisburgh, and Pulteneytown, whence it breaks out, and becomes 
epidemic in the neighbouring country. It is generally most acute 
soon after the close of the fishing -season. Nor is it difficult to 
account for its severity at that period. During the fishing there 
are not fewer than 10,000 persons added to the ordinary popula- 
tion of the place ; and these are necessarily crowded together, 
sometimes to the number of ten or twelve, in one small room. 
This circumstance, taken in connection with the great consump- 
tion of spirits, and the very filthy state of the houses, shores, and 
streets, with putrescent effluvia steaming up from the fishoffals 
lying everywhere about, render it a wonder that typhoid diseases 
are not much more prevalent. The shortness of the fishing-sea- 

* Statistical Account, Vol. x. p. 31. 



122 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

son, the greater supply of food) and the state of excitement and 
activity in which all connected with the fishing live during the 
period of its continuance, are no doubt the great counteracting 
preservatives. Indigestion, arising from the almost exclusive vege- 
table food of the commonalty, is very frequent The small ten- 
ants, especially the females, are perhaps most liable to this com- 
plaint ; which seems to be on the increase. Small-pox is seldom 
long absent from the parish, and is often very fetal. Great numbers 
of the people have a strange antipathy to vaccination. They brand 
it as a tempting of Providence ; whereas their rejection of this 
preservative is this sin. British cholera is endemic and epi- 
demic, and often makes its appearance, especially in the latter 
form. It is never fatal in ordinary circumstances. Pestilential 
cholera visited Wick during the fishing season of 1632, a short 
while after its appearance at Thurso. The number of cases re- 
ported Umounted to 306, of which 66 proved fatal. 

From various calculations it appears, that the proportion of sick- 
ness in the difierent sexes gives 141^ females to 100 males. Under 
twenty years of age, more males are sick than females ; between 
twenty and seventy more females than males; and above the lat- 
ter age, they are equal. The proportion of sickness, to such a 
degree as to demand medical attention, is about 5^ or 6 per 
cent, of the population.* The deaths are, about 20 per cent, of 
the sick. 

Instances of great longevity are not uncommon. There is at 
present an old lady, resident in the burgh, who has entered into her 
101st year, and an uld fanner, in the landward part of the parish, 
who has entered into his 102d. Both these venerable persons are 
in the perfect possession of all their mental and bodily faculties. 

Maniacs are very rare. Idiots and fatuous persons are remark- 
ablv common. 

A singular lusus naturaj which occurred in the person of a child 
â– in the neighbourhood of Wick, about eighteen years ago, may 
here be mentioned. This child had a perfect eye on the back of 
the head. It lived for two years ; and it is evident had the use of 
the supernumerary organ, from its never allowing a cap to be 
kept over it 

Hydroyraphy. — It is needless to describe the well-known stormy 
Moray Frith, which, as has already been said, forms the eastern 
boundary of the parish of Wick. 



WICK. 123 

Tbe^ burns of Slickly, StaDstill^ and Kilmiaster contribute to 
supply the Loch of Wester, which lies within three-quarters of a 
mile of the shore of Keiss Bay. This loch is about a mile long and 
a third of a mile broad. Its outlet forms the River or Water of 
Wester, which, after a winding course, flows into the Bay of Keiss. 
On the very highest ground of Noss-Head is the Loch of Noss, 
which, notwithstanding its elevated situation, and though no streani- 
lets fall into it, is seldom if ever dry. The Loch of Kilminster lies 
in the middle of the moss of that name, and does not exceed 
three-fourths of a mile in breadth. The Loch of Winless is to 
the south of the Loch of Kilminster. The waters of both fall into 
the River of Wick. 

The River of Wick, by far the largest stream in the parish, is 
the outlet of the beautiful Loch of Wattin, in the parish of that 
name. It lazily flows in a south-easterly direction through the 
rich and loamy strath of Stirkoke, till, after a winding course of 
eleven or twelve miles, about nine of which are within the parish 
of Wick, which it divides into two parts of almost equal extent, 
it disembogues itself into Wick Bay. Its average breadth is about 
thirty feet ; but in rainy seasons, it overflows its banks, and over- 
floods the strath through which it winds. The principal stream- 
lets which it receives within the parish of Wick from the north, are 
the Burn of Winless, which issues from the loch of that name, 
the streamlet which flows from the Loch of Kilminster and Alti- 
marlach, close on the west side of the upper glebe. 

On the south side, the Burn of Bilbster is the first considerable 
streamlet which the River of Wick receives within the parish. The 
Burn of Hauster collects the greater part of its waters on the north 
and east of Camster, a townland belonging partly to Wick and 
partly to Latberon, (one of its sources being the little moss- fed 
Loch of Carnlia) ; and after a sweeping course of eight miles around 
the south side of Stirkoke, falls into the same river, upwards of 
three miles below the Burn of Bilbster. In the north end of the 
Moss of Tannach is Loch Dhu, three-quarters of a mile in cir- 
cumference. Its outlet falls into the Burn of Hauster. Half a 
mile to the south of Loch Dhu, lies the Loch of Hempriggs, about 
a mile in length from north to south, and more than half a mile 
in breadth. The natural outlet of this loch is the Burn of New- 
ton, which falls into the River of Wick, bejow the Burn of Haus- 
ter : but a lade, which has been cut from it, carries a runnel of 



124 CAITHNESS-SUIIIE. 

water of fifty horse-power into' Pulteney town for various industrial 
purposes. This loch is supplied chiefly from the Loch of Yar- 
rows, two miles and a half distant to the south-west, into which 
runs the water of the drained Loch of Brickigoe. Two trifling 
lochs, one of which is named Wairows, among the hills of Yar- 
rows, send out, towards the sea, a little stream, which divides into 
two streamlets, one of which runs into the Loch of Sarclet, lying 
half-way between Sarclet and Ulbster House; and the other 
falls into the sea at Falligo, southwards of Ulbster. The Loch of 
Sarclet, which is not above three-fourths of a mile in circumfe- 
rence, discharges its waters into the sea, a little to the south of 
the village of that name. The waters of the valley of Camster 
fall away, to the south, into the parish of Latheron. 

Except a few rather pretty braes towards the mouth of the River 
of Wick, the scenery, both on the loclis and on the brooks of the 
parish, is as tame and unpicturesque as it possibly can be. Most 
of the well-water of the parish of Wick is impregnated with lime 
or iron. Chalybeate springs of considerable strength occur a 
little to the south of the Castle of Auld W^ick, and on the face of 
a low bank to the north of Proudfoot, the north-eastern extremity 
of the Bay of Wick. 

Geohgy, — Of the hilly ranges on the south and west of the pa- 
rish, the formation is principally composed of grey wack^ and grey- 
wacke slate, with a few limestones, sandstones, &c. Towards the 
summit of the Yarrows Hills, a gneissy formation abounds. With 
these exceptions, the rock-formations of this parish consist almost 
entirely of the coarser kinds of the clay-slate or flagstone, so pre- 
valent in the flatter grounds of Caithness. This is an immense 
formation of alternating beds of silicious and calcareo-silicious flag- 
stone or slate-clay ; dark, foliated, bituminous limestone ; pyri- 
tous shale ; sandstone, &c The silicious beds predominate in 
the lowest position in this formation, and the calc^reo- bituminous 
bed gives the type to the intermediate part, becoming more silici- 
ous and arenaceous at the upper posture, and so graduating into 
the superior division. The aggregate thickness of these deposits 
is very greaL 

The clifis along the coast to the north of Keiss are chiefly com- 
posed of grey, brown, and greenish sandstone in thin layers, alter- 
nating with pyritous shale, which disappear in the Bay of Keiss. 
At the Castle of Girnigoe, there is a remarkable section of the 



WICK. 125 

dark-bluish calcareous flagstone, wbich continues along the coast 
to the cliffs southwards of the burgh of Wick. This deposit dif- 
fers from the general formation of the district in being in thicker 
beds, on which account it is much used in building. The stratal 
dip is generally to the north-east, with, however, numerous inter- 
ruptions. 

Of the cliffs to the south of the Bay of Wick, the stratal 
dip is in the same direction, and the flagstone is surmounted 
by soft greenish micaceous shale and sandstone. The opera? 
lions near the southern side of the new harbour of Pulteneytown 
have brought into view a very singular disposition of the superior 
recumbent detritus. This, for the space of about 100 yards, is 
composed of large stones, huddled together like the rubbish of a 
quarry. The bank of fine bluish clay, resting upon this, is of con- 
siderable height. Imbedded in it,, and near its summit, lies a con- 
spicuous mass of coarse-grained dark-grey granite, of perhaps 
twenty tons in weight. It has been blasted with gunpowder, and 
various idle attempts have been made, but happily without success, 
to destroy this huge and remarkable boulder. A similar granitic 
boulder is found opposite, on the northern side of the bay. These 
are the only specimens known of this kind of stone in the parish ; 
and they bear evident marks of having been rolled along by some 
mighty current. 

Farther along the coast, on the south side of Wick Bay, nearer 
the Castle of Auld Wick, where the sea-cliffs are above thirty feet 
in height, and far above the reach of the high tide, the uppermost 
strata have been deranged by some mighty force directed upon 
them from the Moray Frith. Enormous masses of rock have been 
broken off from their beds, and thrown upon one another in most 
terrific confusion. One prodigious mass has been heaved from its 
bed below, and placed upon a similar rock immediately above, on 
which it is supported by a small stone between them, so that a 
person can walk beneath it. 

About four miles to the south of Wick, the line of bearing of 
the schistose rocks is altered ; and from a point near Ulbster, 
where they begin to dip in an inland or westerly direction, a great 
change is observable in the physical character of the country. 

Fossil Organic Remains. — Ichthyolites are universally spread 
over this extensive deposit ; and their occurrence is not confined 
to one particular stratum, but is characteristic of this vast schis* 



126 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

tose formation, from the lowest to the highest beds. They have 
been found at Wester, near Keiss Bay, and elsewhere. These stone- 
fish occur in beds of dark-gray calcareous schist, highly bitumi- 
nous and micaceous* In general, the animal rfoiains are easily 
distinguishable from the imbedding matrix by their dark colour. 
Professor Agassiz, the celebrated naturalist, who has devoted so 
much of his time to the study of fossil fishes, has determined, and 
for the first time, with accuracy, the characters of our Caith- 
ness species. 

Minerafagy, — Minerals are not abundant The laminated beds 
of the rock-formatfon are, over all the parish, much intersected by 
symmetrical joints and fissures, which are filled up in numerous in- 
stances with trap. This often has the direct effect of altering 
the stratal inclination, and indeed of twisting and contorting it in 
all imaginable directions. Quartz or felspar likewise often fills up 
these fissures ; the smaller of which are sometimes occupied en- 
tirely with calc-spar. The clay-slate contains many varied pyrites. 
At Staxigoe there is a vein of ironstone. Running down into the 
harbour of this village, there is a vein of lead-ore imbedded in fel- 
spar. Between Staxigoe and Broad Haven are several small veins 
of copper-ore. At the latter village there is a pretty good appear- 
ance of alum-rock. Immediately to the south of the Castle of 
Auld Wick, is the best vein of copper in the parish. It was wrought 
about eighty years ago by a company of miners, who carried off 
several ship loads of ore; but, having found a better vein in l^het- 
land, it was abandoned ; but not, however, before they secured 
themselves against competition, by taking a lease of it from 
the proprietor. Sulphate of barytes occurs on the coast opposite 
to the House of Ulbster, and is in some places three feet thick. 

In the immediate neighbourhood of the Tower of Ackergill, 
there is a considerable vein of a kind of parrot-coal, which emits 
a bright flame in burning, but is not reduced to ashes. 

Marl of various qualities abounds in this parish. The draining 
of the loch of Brickigoe has made accessible a bed of most excel- 
lent marl of 20 feet in depth. 

The soil varies in different places. The moss at the foot of the 
hills of Yarrows, the one between Sarcletand Ulbster; the Moss 
of Tannach, and the Moss of Kilminster, the last of which is many 
feet in depth and of great extent, — are the principal deposits of 
peat-earth In the parish of Wick. 

4 



WICK. 127 

From three to four hundred acres in the strath of Stirkoke are 
covered to the depth of from three to five feet, with an alluvial and 
loamy soil, which has evidently been brought by the River of Wick 
in repeated fldbds from the parish of Wattin. This track is one 
of the richest meadows for the grazing of cattle in Caithness, hut 
is subject to frequent inundations. On the banks of the Hauster 
Water, and, in several other places, a deep covering of detritus 
and shale is to be met with. These contain many fragmentary 
remains of ostraceous shells, which are found at a height of from 
100 to 150 feet above the level of the sea. 

Though the soil is in some places light and sandy, and in other 
places rich and loamy, yet m by far the greater part of the parish 
it consists of a stiff hard clay, produced by the decomposition of 
the clay-slate. In general, the subsoil is composed of a close, 
retentive, gravelly clay, mixed with fragments of slate not yet de- 
composed, and resting on the surface of the flagstone or clay-slate. 
This construction retains the moisture which, along with the hu- 
midity of the climate, renders the soil not merely damp, but in 
many places wet, and thus offers the greatest obstacle to the im* 
provement of the land. 

Botany, — The two Scottish heaths. Erica cinereay heather, and 
E, tetralixy bell-heather, abound on the moors. A purely white 
variety of the former is occasionally found. The bilberry, Vac- 
cihium myrtillus^ blaeberry ; the Empetrum nigrum^ cranberry ; 
the black bear-berry, Arbutus alpiiia ; and the red bearberry, A. 
Uva ursi^ may likewise be found on heathery banks and heights. 
Myrica gale^ the Scottish myrtle, is occasionally found shedding 
its agreeable perfume across an impassable bog. One of the 
most elegant of our indigenous flowers, the birds'-eye primrose. 
Primula farinosa^ called also from its flowering in April and Au- 
gust, Primula Scotivoy the Scottish primrose, adorns, with its 
lovely little purple flowers, the savage heights of the coast of the 
Moray Frith. It is also called the powdered beau, from the white 
dust which plentifully covers the under side of the petals. The 
primrose, Primula veris, is found on the burn sides. A very 
dwarB.^h species of willow may be met with creeping among 
the heather in wet places. Orchidaceous flowers, baldairies, in 
great variety abound. The Links of Keiss are begemmed in the 
season with the beautiful little white flower of Parnassus, Pamas* 
sia palustris. White and red clovers are indigenous ; the former 



129 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

often springs up spontaneously on grounH which has never been 
cultivated, when a little lime may have fallen upon it, or it may 
have been casually turned up by the wheel of a cart or the plough. 
This is also the case with a species of hearts-ease*. The tubers 
of Orobus tuberosus^ knappards or caperoilie, which have a sweetish 
taste, somewhat like that of liquorice, are sometimes chewed. to 
allay hunger. Corncockle, Agrostemma GithagOy which has but 
very lately made its appearance in this quarter ; betony, B. offi* 
cinalisj found, though but dwarfish, on the road sides ; ground- 
ivy, Glechoma hederacea ; and foxglove, Digitalis purpurea^ 
found near Thrumster, are of comparatively rafe occurrence. 
The last plant is provincially called dead merCs bells, and has many 
superstitions connected with it. But the rarest plant in the parish 
of Wick was the white water-lily, Nymphcsa alba, which was found 
only in one spot in all the county of Caithness. This was the 
Loch of Brickigoe, on the estate of Thrumster. But some time 
ago this loch was drained for marl, and the pride of the Catha- 
ncnsian Flora destroyed. Roots, however, were taken from the 
Loch of Brickigoe, and planted in a pond near the House 
of Stirkoke, and at different places in the county of Caith- 
ness. 

Lichens in great variety, and often of great beauty, clothe the 
rocks and stones in all parts of the parish. The rein-deer lichen, 
Z/. rangiferinusi grows to the height of about three or four inches 
among the heather. 

Woods. — There are at present no natural woods in the parish. 
Trees have been planted to a considerable extent around the 
houses of Hempriggs, Stirkoke, and Thrumster ; but neither the 
climate nor the soil is congenial to their growth, and they do not 
thrive. Elder is excepted ; almost everywhere it flourishes amaz- 
ingly. Quickset hedges have, in many places, been trained into 
good fences. 

But though the parish of Wick is at present destitute of natural 
wood, such does not appear to have been always the case. It is 
said, that, in the beginning of the seventeenth century, the hills 
of Yarrows were covered with copse-wood, which was destroyed 
by fire, for the purpose of expelling the wolves, with which the 
place was infested. But the most remarkable evidence of ancient 
woods is found in the Bay of Keiss. Between the links and the 
sand, and running down under the sea, there are found the re- 



WICK. 129 

mains of a submarine forest. These are like peat moss, entirely 
composed of decayed wood. The barks of various kinds of trees 
are quite discernible ; and even the seeds of the birch and ash 
are so well preserved, as to appear but lately from the tree. No 
large trunks are found ; only small specimens of oak, ash, birch, 
and plane-tree ; but none of fir. 

Mammalogy. — Remains of bovine ruminants of a very large size 
have been found in the mosses and marl-pits of this parish. The 
wolf and the wild-goat were once common in the district, but 
have both been extinct long ago. 

The wild-cat *is occasionally seen. Otters are often found. 
The Links of Reiss are stored with rabbits. Hares are numerous. 
The fox breeds in the rocks about the coast. Moles are super- 
abundant. Weasels, ferrets, and polecats, are not uncommon. 
Ermines have been found at Stirkoke. A stray deer from the 
heights of Morven is occasionally met with. 

The native breed of horses, still employed by the smaller ten- 
ants, is diminutive tTnd weak. Their ^^^ovincial name \s garrons. 
The original stock of cattle was also small, but the^beef was ex- 
cellent. Probably the ancient Cathanensian breed of $heep is not 
yet altogether extinct in* the parish of Wick. They are very 
small, with a dirty brown fleece and four small horns. 

Ornithology. — By the kindness of Eric Sutherland Sinclair, 
Esq., surgeon in Wick, who has paid much attention to this sub- 
ject, this Report is enriched with the following " List of birds found 
in the county of Caithness, and principally in the parish of Wick." 
It cannot fail to be extremely interesting ; and may astonish some 
with the extent and variety of Cathanensian ornithology. Mr Sin- 
clair has formed with his own hands an extensive ornithological 
collection illustrative of the natural history of the district All the 
birds in the subsequent list, except those marked with an asterisk, 
are in this learned gentleman's museum. 

The names of birds found in the county of Caithqess, and prin- 
cipally in the parish of Wick. 

Aquila Chrysaeta Buteo vulgaris Strix flammca 

Halisetus Albicilla Lagopus Ululastridula 

Accipitcr fringillarius Pernis apivorus Hirundo rusticu 

Astur palumbarius Circus rufiw ,. urbica 

Falco percgrinus cyaneus â–  riparia 

Subbuteo cineraceus Cypselus murarius 

_ Tinnunculus Otus vulgaris Capriinulgus Kuropsus 

.— iEsalon Brachyotos Muscicapa grisola 

CAITHNESS. I 



IM 




UwTv 



MoDcduki 



Garmlns gbndarios 



Cvgnos 

— — mtui 



IL — CiTiL History. 
There can be no doubt that the aboriginal inhabitants of the 
district which now forms the parish of Wick, were of Celtic origin. 
This is proTed by sereral names of places and rimlets, such as 




WICK, 131 

Auchairn,* Altimarlach, Drumdriy, which are significant in the 
Gaelic language. 

The Celtic inhabitants were invaded and evidently subjugated 
by the Pechts or Picts, a people of Scythic, or more properly 
Scuthic, extraction, who sailed from Scandinavia to Orkney; 
whence they passed into Caithness across the straits denominate 
ed from them the Pechtland, softened into the Pentland, Frithf 
and spread themselves over almost the whole of Scotland. Many 
traces of them are yet to be met with in the parish of Wick, both 
in traditions, and in the shape of those singular and curious ar- 
chitectural ruins called to this day by the common people, Pecht's 
bouses. The designation Cruithnich^ pronounced Creenichy that 
is, wheatmen, by which the Pechts are known in the Gaelic lan^ 
guage— the durability of their habitations extending even to pre* 
sent times, when all traces of the turfen huts of their Celtic pre- 
decessors have long ago passed away— -the legendary marvels of 
their strength and skill — and the superstitious awe with whicli, 
even to this day, the places of their residence are regarded, evince 
that the Pechts must have been a people greatly superior to the 
Celts, and far advanced beyond them in knowledge and civili<^ 
zation. 

About the year 910, Harrold the Fair-haired, a Norwegian 
king, having expelled the pirates who infested the Northern Seas^ 
from the Orkneys, carried the war into Pictland, where he was 
defeated with great slaughter. On his return to Norway, he 
granted the Orcadian Islands to Ronald, a powerful Norwegian 
chieftain, to comfort him for the loss of Ivar, his son, who had 
fallen in battle. Ronald made over this grant to Sigurd, his bro- 
ther, who, having speedily reduced the Orcadians, passed into 
Caithness, and subdued it, with Sutherland and Ross, under his 
authority. Under a succession of Norwegian earls, a very close 
and frequent intercourse subsisted after this event, for ages, be^ 
tween the north of Scotland and Norway ; whence numerous bands 
of Norwegians successively came and settled in Caithness. Sui> 
names of Norwegian extraction, as Swanson, son of Swen, Man*- 
son, son of Magnus, Ronald, Harrold, &c. are frequent in this pa- 
rish. The termination sterj softened from stadr^ a steading, which 
enters into the names of Camster, Ulbster, Stemster, Hauster, 
Thuster, Bilbster, Sibster, Wester, Thurster, and Nybster, shows 

• Auch-charn, the field of the heap of stones. Alt-na-marlach, thiers-burn. 



132 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

also the prevalence of Norwegian colonization within the district 
now forming the parish of Wick. 

The clan Gun are said to have originated in the twelfth cen- 
tury within the parish of Wick, where they once were very power- 
ful, and still are very numerous. About the year 1100, Olaf, a 
man of great bravery, dwelt in the isle of Graemsay, one of the 
Orkneys. He had three sons, Waltheof, Gun, and Swen. ♦ 
From the second of these, traditionally called the Great Gun of 
Ulbster, where he dwelt, the clan Gun deduce their descent. 

About 1 1 40, Ronald, Earl of Orkney, whose name was canon- 
ized at Rome in 1192, ^* was entertained at a town called Wick, 
by Roald, who had a son that was come to maturity, called Swen, 
who was one of those that waited at table." f Margad, who ma- 
naged the possessions at Dungaldsbay, now Duncansbay, of Swen 
Olafson, who followed the profession of a pirate, went some time 
afterwards to Wick, and twenty men with him, to transact some 
business, and before his return slew Roald in his own house, and 
some others with him. Earl Ronald was urged by Swen, the son 
of Roald, to avenge the murder of his father; but the Romish 
saint, after some feeble attempts to seize the person of Margad, 
who was successfully protected by Swen, his master, was, after still 
more horrible atrocities had been perpetrated, reconciled at last to 
both the murderer and the pirate.j: Some time thereafter, whilst 
Ronald was on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, Harrold the Wicked, 
Earl of Orkney, spent the winter at Wick, and was robbed of the 
rents of his estates in Zetland by Swen the pirate, whose strong- 
hold was at Lambsburgh, hodiernally Buchollie's Castle in Canis- 
bay, near the northern boundary of the parish of Wick. § 

Caithness continued subject to Orcadian earls of Scandinavian 
extraction till about 1330, when, owing to the failure of the male 
line, this earldom went into other families, and the power and in- 
fluence of the Norwegians passed away. 

At, and for some time previously to this era, more than a third 
part of Caithness, including the district which now forms the pa- 
rish of Wick, was possessed by a family surnamed De Cheyne* 
The last of the male line, Sir Reginald, is yet under the designation 
of Morar na Shien, famous in the Highland districts as a mighty 
hunter. He was most anxious for a son to heir his vast estates ; 
and when his wife, Mary, brought him a daughter,* he order- 
ed, in a paroxysm of fury, the child to be destroyed. It was, 

• Pope*s Torfeeus. f '»>. t lb- § lb. 



WICK. 133 

• 

however, conveyed away ; and a little sister escaped, in a similar 
manner, the rage of her twice disappointed father. Years rolled on, 
and Morar na Shien often lamented his childless condition. At 
length, on some public occasion, a great festival was held, at which 
Sir Reginald noticed two young ladies, who far outshone the rest 
of the company. Morar na Shien expressed his admiration, and 
lamented to his wife his cruel infatuation, by which he had been 
deprived of daughters, who, had they been allowed to live, would 
have been about the age of these peerless beauties. Mary de 
Cheyne hastened to confess her justifiable disobedience to her 
husband's orders, and introduced the young ladies to him as 
his own daughters. Overpowered with joy, Sir Reginald de 
Cheyne acknowledged them as his, and constituted them heiresses 
of his extensive possessions. Morar na Shien died about the year 
1350. Mariotta, his elder daughter, married John de Keith, the 
second son of Edward the Marischal, by whom she had a son, An- 
drew, who became possessed, in right of his mother, of the lands 
of Ackergill and other estates in the parish of Wick» Marjory, 
the younger, was heiress of Duffus, and married Nicholas, the se- 
cond son of Kenneth, Earl of Sutherland, who thus obtained the 
castle and lands of Auld Wick, in the same parish. William, on 
whom his father, Earl William, passing by an elder brother of the 
same name, entailed the earldom 6f Caithness, married a daugh- 
ter of Keith of Ackergill. 

These various marriages brought the Sinclairs, Sutherlands, 
and Keiths into the parish of Wick ; and subsequent events gave 
rise to the following couplet, which is yet often repeated : 

Sinclair, Sutherland, Keith, and clan Gun, 
There never was peace whar thae four war in. 

About the year 1464, serious disputes having arisen between 
the Keiths and the clan Gun, Keith of Ackergill associated with 
himself the Mackays of Strathnaver, who readily entered into the 
quarrel, and marched against his enemies. The hostile parties 
encountered each other on the Moor of Tannach, in the parish of 
Wick. A desperate conflict ensued, but afler a cruel slaughter 
on both sides, the Guns were at last defeated. To terminate 
these bitter and bloody feuds, it was arranged that a meeting should 
take place with twelve horses on each side, between Ackergill and 
the Cruner, as the chief of the clan Gun was styled. This in- 
terview was appointed to be held in the Chapel of St Tears, not 
far from Ackergill. The Cruner, with the greater part of his sons 



134 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

aDd principal kinsmen, to the number of twelve altogether, came 
at the time appointed, and, as Keith had not yet arrived, they pro- 
ceeded into the chapel to their devotions. Whilst they were at 
prayer, Ackergill came up with twenty-four men, on each horse 
two, and rushing on the Cruner and his followers, overpowered 
and slew them all, but not before the greater part of the Keiths 
had fallen. This horrid act of treachery did not pass unreveng* 
ed. William, the grandson of the Cruner, afterwards intercepted 
and cut off George Keith of Ackergill and his son, with twelve of 
their retainers, at Drummoy in Sutherland. The lands of Ac- 
kergill passed into the possession of the Earl of Caithness. 

The earls of Caithness, who had acquired the greater part of 
the parish of Wick, fixed their baronial residence at the Castle of 
Girnigoe, near the Tower of Ackergill. In 1576, this stronghold 
became the scene of one of the most fearful atrocities on re- 
cord. John, the Master of Caithness, surnamed from his great 
strength, Garrow,* had incurred the displeasure of his father, 
George, the fifth Earl of Caithness of the name of Sinclair, be- 
cause he would not execute the revengeful hatred of the earl 
against Dornock, and extirpate its inhabitants. Having inveigled 
the Master into the snares which had been laid for him, his father 
had him seized at Girnigoe, and cast into a dark and noisome dun- 
geon below ground^ in which he dragged out for years a wretched 
existence. At last his keepers, David and Ingram Sinclair, rela- 
tives of his own, determined to destroy him ; and after having 
kept him for some time without food, gave him a large mess of 
salt beef, and then withholding all drink from him, left him to die 
of raging thirst. 

This inhuman earl died at Edinburgh in 1583, and his body 
was buried in St Giles% where his monument is still to be seen. 
His heart was cased in lead, and placed in the Sinclair's aisle, 
where his murdered son was buried at the church of Wick. 
There is evidence that, if not a Papist, he leaned much to Popery. 

He was succeeded by his grandson, George, son of John Gar- 
row, who began his career by avenging his father's death. David 
Sinclair resided at Keiss, and Ingram at Wester. The daughter 
of the latter was to be married, and a large party were invited to 
the wedding. Earl George met David on his way to Wester, 
and ran him through the body with his sword. The earl then rode 
over to Wester, and accosted Ingram as he was playing at foot- 

• Garh'iy Gaelic, rough, strong. 



WICK. 135 

ball on the green. << Do you know/' said he, ^< that one of my 
corbies," so he called his pistols, ^< missed fire this morning ?"— 
and drawing it from tlie holster as if to look at it, shot him through 
the head. 

In 1588^ the Earl of Sutherland, in revenge for the slaughter 
of one of his dependents by the Sinclairs, made an inroad into 
Caithness, and advanced as far as Wick, which he took and burn- 
ed. One of his followers, having entered the church, found the 
leaden box enclosing the heart of the late Earl of Caithness, and, 
disappointed in his expectations of treasure, broke the casket open, 
and flung the corrupted heart into the air. Proceeding onwards, 
the Sutherlands laid siege to the Castle of Girnigoe, from which 
they retired, after having beleaguered it in vain for twelve days. 
Next year the men of Caithness having killed the Earl of Suth- 
erland's herdsman, that chieftain sent an army of 300 men, 
who marched almost as far as Girnigoe, and cruelly ravaged the 
country. In this inroad, they spoiled the ship, and plundered 
the goods of one Andrew Wardlaw, a merchant in the town of 
Wick. 

In 160G, the Earl of Caithness, by purchase of some estates, 
became proprietor of almost all the parish of Wick ; but his infa- 
mous conduct, which has procured for him in the traditions of this 
parish, the cognomen of the Wicked, involved him in inextrica- 
ble difficulties. To recruit his exhausted resources, he harbour- 
ed at Girnigoe a coiner called Arthur Smith, who filled the coun- 
try with bad money. This, and his turbulence brought down upon 
his head the vengeance of the Court ; and Sir Robert Gordon, 
the first Knight-baronet of Scotland, was despatched with ample 
powers to chastise the treasonable earl. Lord Caithness fled ; 
but Sir Robert laid waste his estates, and took possession of his 
castles of Girnigoe, Ackergill, and Keiss. The earl at length 
submitted himself, and was alimented by his creditors with an an- 
nuity out of his dilapidated estates. He died in 1643, and was 
succeeded by his great-grandson, George, who sold in 1672, the 
whole earldom, title, and all, to the Laird of Glenorchy, and died 
in 1676. 

Glenorchy, who thus had become proprietor of the greater part 
of the parish of Wick, having married the Countess, assumed the 
title of Earl of Caithness. His right to this honour was disput- 
ed by George Sinclair of Keiss. To vindicate his claim, Glen- 
orchy having obtained letters from the Council, raised a troop of 



136 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

several hundred men, and tnarched against Sinclair, to dispossess 
him of his patrimonial estate. Keiss collected a force of 400 
men, and awaited his enemy in the borough of Wick. There he 
plentifully regaled his followers ; who had not recovered from their 
revelling, when, on the 13th of July 1680, they were informed 
that the Campbells were crossing the country towards Keiss. In- 
flamed with drink, the men of Caithness vauntingly rushed on the 
men of Glenorchy, who were strongly posted on the western bank 
of the burn of Altimarlach, on the northern side of the River of 
Wick, close above what now forms the upper glebe. A total rout 
pf the revellers immediately ensued, who turned their backs and 
fled through the gully towards the river. Numbers were killed 
in attempting to cross ; and tradition says, that the Campbells, in 
pursuit of the fugitives, passed over the river dry-shod, on the 
bodies of the slain. Notwithstanding this disaster, the right of 
Sinclair of Keiss to the title of Earl of Caithness was at last re- 
cognized, and Glenorchy was created, as a sort of compensatioD, 
Baron of Weik. 

The Baron of Weik was hated by the people. They burned 
the corn and houghed the cattle of the tenants on his estates ; till 
at last, utterly wearied with these incessant vexations, he divided the 
whole of his lauds in Caithness into sixty-two portions, great and 
small, which he sold in 1690. 

In this transaction terminated the civil history of the parish of 
Wick. Nothing has since occurred within it worth recording. 

Land-owners. — The principal land-owner is the Right Ho- 
nourable Benjamin Dunbar Sutherland, Baron of DufTus, and a Ba- 
ronet. Lord Dufl*us is paternally descended from Nicholas Suther- 
land, second son of Kenneth, Earl of Sutherland, who married Mar- 
jory de Cheyne, second daughter of the celebrated hunter, Morar na 
Shien. Marjory was heiress of DufTus, and likewise of Auld Wick 
in this parish, of which her descendant is proprietor at this day. 
The other land-owners are, William Home, Esq. of Scouthel, 
who possesses, in the parish of Wick, the estates of Stirkoke and 
Sibster ; Robert Innes, Esq. of Thrumster ; Kenneth Macleay, Esq. 
of Keiss and Bilbster ; John Sinclair, Esq. of Barrock, proprietor 
in Wick, of Howe and Mireland ; Sir George Sinclair, Bart of 
Ulbster ; the Earl of Caithness, of Mirelandorn ; William Sin- 
clair, Esq. of Freswick, proprietor in Wick, of Nybster ; the Bri- 
tish Society for improving the fisheries are feudatories under Lord 



WICK. 137 

Duffus of PulteDeytown ; andJames Smith, Esq. of Olrig, is owner 
of a small property. 

Of these, Lord Duffus and Robert Innes, Esq. are the only con- 
stantly resident land-owners. William Home, Esq. is occasional- 
ly resident at Stirkoke. All the rest are non-resident. 

Parochial Registers, — The records belonging to the Kirk-session 
have not been well preserved. The earlier minutes of session have 
been lost. Those at present extant consist of five volumes. Of these, 
the first, which contains 237 folio pages, commences on the 20th 
of July 1701, and ends on May 13th 1723 ; the second, which con- 
tains 85 folios, begins on May 2d 1742, and ends on September 
24th 1758; the third, containing 145 folios, begins on October 
1st 1758, and ends on January 13th 1793; the fourth, which 
contains 139 leaves, and is a mere ragged fragment of a quarto 
volume, wanting both beginning and end, commences on the 29th 
of October 1801, and terminates on February 9th 1816; and the 
fifth, in which the minutes of Session are being recorded, commen- 
ces on July 12th 1816. The baptismal registers, which have not 
been regularly kept, consist of six volumes, and commence on the 
3d of November 1701. Up till a late date the registers of ma- 
trimonial contracts, and of births and baptisms, were strangely mix- 
ed and jumbled together. The register of marriages commences 
on the 2dth of August 1840. There is no register of deaths. 

Antiquitfes. — Several cairns on the Yarrows Hills are, perhaps, 
with the addition of some Gaelic names of places, the only remains 
of the aboriginal Celtic inhabitants of this district. 

The curious ruins of the Pechtish habitations are numerously 
scattered all over Caithness. Several of these are in the southern 
division of the parish of Wick. Some occupy the most fertile 
situations ; others again are placed on barren land, where there are 
no traces of cultivation. 

In their outward appearance the Pechtish houses look like little 
round grassy knolls, about twelve or sixteen feet in height. One 
at Thrumster, the seat of Robert Innes, Esq., from which the earth 
has in part been removed, was found to have been composed of 
two concentric circular walls, built of stone and clay, with a con- 
siderable interval between them filled up with earth ; the whole 
forming a rampart of about eighteen feet in thickness. The en- 
closed area was occupied with several cells; and evident marks of 
five fire-places around the inside of the inner wall were discovered. 
The whole was very inartificially vaulted with flagstones, and cover- 



138 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

ed over with a tbick coating of earth* Various articles* were fouud 
among the rubbish ; such as a wooden distaff, which soon crumb- 
led into dust; a freestone basin ; and three bullets about the size 
of musket-balls, of a substance like marbles streaked with blue. 
The skeleton of a tall man, who had been buried in a coffin made 
of flags, was dug up from the mould which had been heaped up 
against the outside of the fabric In most of the Pechtish houses 
which have been opened, there were found little recesses in the 
inner walls, which had evidently been used as dormitories for the 
inhabitants. 

There can be little doubt that these remarkable structures were 
the dwellings of the Pechtish chiefs, who were in all likelihood 
both the leaders and priests of their people. The power and in- 
fluence with which, by force and fraud, they ruled over and oppres- 
sed the Celts who formed the bulk of the population, have invested 
even to this day, the places of their abode with dread and terror. It 
is still deemed no cannie to dig up a Pecht's house. Scarcely will 
a peasant profane their verdant sward with a spade. He stands 
in dread of the fairies, who yet are believed to haunt such places, 
or of some other unknown and revengeful power. 

A ruin on the Links of Keiss, called Toft- Ferry, is pointed out 
by tradition as the remains of the first house built of stone in Keiss, 
and one of the first three built in the parish of Wick. The other 
two were, one at Harland and one at Hauster. * 

On the Links of Kiess, and about half-a-mile to the south of 
Toft- Ferry, there are near the beach other two ruins covered with 
sand, called the Birkle Hills. These are more conspicuous than 
Toft- Ferry, being of a conical form, and elevated about thirty- 
five feet from their base, and about sixty-five yards asunder. They 
are said to be the ruins of two castles, called Castles Linglass. 
Tradition reports that the castles were burned down ; and the re- 
port is confirmed by the calcined state of such stones as have been 
dug from the ruins. It is said that a village, was connected with 
them, of which, however, there are now no remains. 

An apparently monumental stone at Ulbster, on which are en- 
graved some untraceable sculptures, is said to mark the grave of 
a Danish princess, whom Gun, the progenitor of the clan Gun, 
married in Denmark. The vessel in which the Great Gun of 
Ulbster returned home with his bride was wrecked on the iron- 
bound shores of Caithness, and the Danish princess was drowned. 
Elsher's Cairn, between Wick and Papigoe, marks the spot 



WICK. • 139 

where it is traditioDally reported that an Earl Alexander was slain. 
Who he was, or whence he drew his title, is not known. 

Along the coast, are four very ancient strongholds, three of which 
are in ruins, llie Castle of Auld Wick is perhaps one of the 
old^t buildings in Caithness. It stands to the south of Wick 
Bay, on a lofty peninsular rock projecting into the Moray Frith, 
and consists at present of the grim remains of a strong tower of 
the rudest masonry, with the merest slits for windows. The space 
behind it towards the sea, has been occupied with two ranges of lower 
buildings, the foundations of which are yet traceable. On the 
very point of the projecting rock, is a flat smooth space, surrounded 
by the remains of a wall, which appears to have been a kind of 
garden, promenade, or bowling*green. Rude steps lead down to 
the sea. The whole has been defended on the land-side by a 
deep ditch, over which communication has been held with the land 
by means of a drawbridge. The ruins of this black unsightly 
tower, still nearly three stories high, form an excellent land-mark 
to sailors, by whom it is called the AuP Man o' Wick. 

The Castle of Auld Wick was, in the beginning of the fourteenth 
century, one of the strongholds of Sir Reginald de Cheyne. On his 
death, before 1350, it passed into the possession of Nicholas Suth- 
erland, second son of Kenneth Earl of Sutherland, and ancestor 
of the Barons of Duffus, who married Marjory, second daughter 
of Sir Reginald. The castle and lands of Auld Wick after- 
wards went by marriage into the femily of Oliphant ; and tradition 
says that a Lord Oliphant was slain in a rencounter not far from the 
tower. By the Oliphants they were sold to the Earl of Caithness ; 
by a subsequent earl, they were disposed of to Glenorchy, by whom 
they were sold to Dunbar of Hetopriggs, and finally by the mar- 
riage of Sir James Sutherland, second son of James, second Lord 
Duffus, with Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Sir William Dun- 
bar of Hempriggs, the lands and castle of Auld Wick have come 
into the possession of the present Lord Dufins, the lineal male re- 
presentative of Nicholas Sutherland and Marjory de Cheyne. 

The Castle of Girnigoe, which stands a little to the west of 
Noss-Head, was the chief baronial stronghold of the Sinclairs, 
Earls of Caithness. Its ruins occupy the whole surface of a bold 
peninsular rock, which, starting from a shoulder of the mainland, 
shelters a goe or inlet of some width, whence the castle received 
its name. The ruins are evidently of different ages. The date 



140 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

of the older and larger portion, which is the one farther out, is 
buried in remote antiquity. The newer portion seems to have 
been built in the sixteenth century. The extremity of the penin- 
sular rock is occupied by a chamber said to have been the Earl's 
bed-room. A trap-door in the middle of the floor led throdgh 
the rock to the sea. This room communicated by a flight of steps 
with the court, which stood on a higher. level. On the right side^ 
facing the Bay of Keiss, ran a range of low rooms all the way to 
the dungeon-keep, while towards the land there were only three 
or four small rooms next the bed-chamber, the rest of the court 
on that side having been shut in by a high wall, pierced with 
seven loop-holes. The tower, which consisted of five stories, and 
is about fifty feet in height, occupied the whole breadth of the 
rocL The staircase^ circular within, stood in the north-east 
comer next the land. No part of the stair remains. The main 
mri of the tower is of such a size as to contain several vaulted 
apartments on the ground floor, besides the passage to the newer 
building. In one corner of the room next the sea there is a nar- 
row stair leading into a cell, partly formed in the rock. A small 
window opening on the Bay, but beyond the reach of the hapless 
captive, gives light enough to reveal the gloom which pervades the 
dungeon. Here languished for several years, till he was ultimately 
murdered, John Garrow the Master of Caithness, a victim to the 
hatred of his unnatural father, who revelled in the chambers above, 
while his son was perishing in the dungeons below. In the north- 
west corner of the court, a passage leads through the tower to the 
edge of a chasm in the rock, over which a draw-bridge led to the 
court of the new castle. 

With the exception of one or two outer rooms, and of a narrow 
chimney-stalk of the main tower, this part of the building is now 
a heap of rubbish, presenting a singular contrast to the older walls, 
which are nearly entire. This decay must be ascribed to a defect 
in the foundation, which seems to have been built with clay. The 
superstructure being cemented with lime, fell almost in one mass 
into the hollow between the castle and the mainland, and still 
shows the sides of several arches of very strong masonry prostrate 
on the ground. The tower of this part of the castle was not 
nearly so lofty as that of the other; but much more attention had 
evidently been paid in the construction of it to internal finishing. 
Access was obtained from the mainland by a draw-bridge over au 



WICK. 141 

artificial ditch across the neck of the peninsula, through an arched 
passage into the court. 

The situation of this castle is naturally strong, and its occu^ 
pants could have set at defiance assailants armed with the weapons 
of ancient days. A garrison could not have been pressed by fa^ 
mine, so long as they commanded the sea, for they could always 
obtain provisions through the secret passage, and the goe would 
afford secure accommodation for such small craft as they might 
employ for trafiic with the neighbouring shores. 
. In 1606, George the Wicked, Earl of Caithness, obtained an 
act of Parliament changing the old name of Girnigoe into thai 
of SiuQlair. Both names, however, are applied to the ruins, which 
are always called Castles Sinclair and Girnigoe, the latter name 
being applied to the more ancient portion. A drawing, was taken 
of these castles by Daniell, before Castle Sinclair became so rui* 
nous as it now is. 

The tower of Ackergill, anciently written Aikrigill, which 
stands on the bosom of the Bay of Keiss, is a noble and impres* 
sive structure. It is perfectly rectangular, eighty-two feet ia 
height, and battlemented. The walls are extremely massive, up- 
wards of thirteen feet in thickness ; and the whole building is ve- 
nerably grey with the hoar of great antiquity. It is in excellent 
repair ; and is at present the residence of the Honourable George 
Dunbar, Master of Duffus, to whose father it and the Castles 
Sinclair and Girnigoe belong. 

By whom, or at what time, the tower of Ackergill was erected, 
is altogether unknown. The lands of Ackergill belonged to Morar 
na Shien, with whose daughter Marietta they went into the pos- 
session of the Keiths, and, after passing through the hands of the 
Sinclairs and others, came at last into the family of Duffus. 

On the northern side of Keiss Bay stand the ruins of the Castle 
of Keiss, opposite the Castles Sinclair and Girnigoe. It con- 
sists at present of the remains of a paltry tower. 

This stronghold was formerly called the Fortalice of Radder. 
It anciently belonged to the Earls of Caithness. At present, it 
is the property of Kenneth Macleay, Esq. of Newmore and Keiss^ 

Near Thrumster House is a standing-stone, respecting which 
there is an ancient tradition in this district, that Margaret the 
Maiden of Norway, heiress of the Scottish Crown, was wrecked 
on this coast on her return to Scotland, and buried under the 
" Standinor-Stane o' Thrumster." 

o 




142 CA1THNESS*SHIRE. 

The only other antiquity worth noticing, is that of the Sinclairs* 
Aisle, in the church-yard, opposite the door of the Parish Church. 
It is in the form of a small but elegant chapel. The walls are 
entire, but roofless. It was built by that Earl George who mur- 
dered his own son in the vaults of the Castle of Gimigoe. * 

An old image of St Fergus, the tutelary saint of the parish in 
Popish times, habited in a monkish dress, and standing on some 
sort of animal, which formerly lay in the church, has now been 
placed in the jail. Its features are altogether effaced. 

Modem Buildings. — The chief of these is the parish Church. 
This is a large substantial fabric of the very plainest Gothic, built 
of blue flagstone, with freestone at the comers, doors, and win- 
dows, and on the spire. It is imposing from its size. The Town 
and County Hall is likewise of flagstone, ornamented in front 
with freestone, and a belfry like a cupola. The hall itself is a 
large and well-proportioned room. Its walls are adorned with 
well executed portraits of the late Earl of Caithness ; the late Sir 
John Sinclair of Ulbster; James Traill, Esq. of Rattar; and 
Kenneth Macleay, Esq. The Commercial Bank is of freestone, 
with pillars of the Ionic order. The Congregational Chapel in 
Wick, the United Secession, the Reformed Presbyterian, and 
the Popish chapels in Pulteneytown^ are very plain buildings. 
The Academy, built by the British Fishery Company, is a good 
and commodious building. A new church, in connection with the 
Church of Scotland, is about to be commenced in Pulteneytown. 

A Temperance Hall, cajpable of holding 1000 persons, is in 
the course of being erected in Wick, by the Total Abstinence 
Society of Wick and Pulteneytown. 

Hempriggs House, formerly Telstone, the seat of Lord Duffus, 
though of considerable antiquity, is a large and commodious man- 
sion. The House of Stirkoke, the s^at of William Home, Esq. 
of Scouthel ; the House of Thrumster, the seat of Robert Innes, 
Esq. ; and Rosebank, the property of Kenneth Macleay, Esq. of 
Newmore, — are excellent residences. There are also substantial 
houses at Ulbster, Tannach, Bilbster, Sibster, Harlan, Reiss, 
and Noss, and not a few in the burgh of Wick. 

The material of which these and all other stone erections in 

• On a stone in the aisle is the following inscription : ** Here within lyes in- 
tombed ane Noble and worthie man, John, Master Fiar of Caithness, of Clyth and 
Greenland, Knight, father of ane Noble and potent Lord, now George Earl of Caith- 
ne«8. Lord Sinclair of Berridale, who departed this life the 15th day of March 1576, 
being of age 45 years," 

4 



WICK. 143 

the parish are composed, is the universal clayslate, or dark-blue 
flagstone of the county. This, when the stones are well selected 
and squared, makes a beautiful wall. Buildings of it, however, 
from the darkness of its hue, have a very sombre appearance- 
Many houses in Pulteneytown, and throughout the landward 
part of the parish, are built without lime. The wind sifts through 
their walls, and makes them very cold. The houses of many of 
the smaller tenants, and of the cottars, are built partly of stone 
and partly of turf. Some of them are of turf altogether, and are 
wretched hovels. But these very miserable huts are happily be- 
coming rare in the parish of Wick. 

II I. — Population. 
About the year 1695, there were in the parish of Wick 2000 
catechisable persons. * The following table shows the state of 
the population at the periods specified. 

in ]707» the population amounted to . SQOO 

1719, .... about 4000 

1726, .... seoo 

1755, .... a938 

1792, 5000 

1801 .... 9966 

181 1 J there were 1044 fiimilies, 2394 malei, 2686 females. Total, 5080 
1821, 1339 8263 3450 6713 

1831. 1976 4830 5020 9850 

In 1792, there were in the Burgh 200 families, and 1000 Individuals. 

181 1, 232 do.— 489 males, 505 females. Total, 994 

In LouisbuTgh, Pulteneytown, and Bankhead, 401 354 755 



890 859 1749 

Population in 1840, males 4325, females 5021. ToUl, 9346 
Do, 1826, . . 7520 

Increase in fourteen years, 1826 

It is impossible to ascertain the yearly average of births, mar- 
riages, and deaths, seeing that there is no register of deaths; that 
the Dissenters do not register their children's births ; that great 
numbers of Churchmen are guilty of the same culpable negligence; 
and that a register of marriages solemnized within the Establish- 
ment, was commenced only about four months ago. , 

Lord Duffus is the only nobleman resident in the parish. His 
seat is Hemprigg House. His son, the Master of Duffus, dwells at 
Ackergill. 

People. — The Celts were, for anything that appears, aboriginal in 
the district. They were in early times invaded and subjugated by the 
Pechts, a Scandinavian race, whose descendants mtermingled their 
blood with that of their Celtic vassals. The Norwegian conquerors and 

" Records of Presbytery of Caitliness, Sd Oetober 1700. 



144 CAITHNES^-SHIRE. 

colonists, a people cognate with the Pechts, infused a much larger 
portion of Gothic blood into the Celtico-Pechtish population of 
the district The changes made, a few years ago, on the estates 
of the Duchess- Countess of Sutherland, drove a great many 
Highlanders into Caithness, who found work and sustenance chiefly 
in the more comndercial districts of the county. This Celtic sup- 
ply is kept up by the herring fishery, which annually brings into 
Wick very great numbers of young Highlanders, several of whom 
every year settle in the parish. From all these causes it follows, 
that the present parishioners of Wick are an intermixture of the 
Celtic, Pechtish, Norwegian, and, latterly, again of the Celtic 
races. 

This is evident, both from the names and from the physical 
character, of the people. It is difficult to say whether the sur- 
names of Gothic or those of Gaelic origin predominate. Gaelic 
baptismal names are likewise very common. The physical cha- 
racter of the people also denotes their Celtico- Gothic origin. 
Though there are some, yet there are, remarkably few red or yel- 
low-haired persons in the parish. Their hair is generally black 
or very dark-brown, and their complexions correspondent. Their 
persons are taller and larger limbed than those of their Celtic 
neighbours, though not so tall nor large as those of unmingled 
Gothic descent. In general, their counteifances are rather round- 
ish than oval ; their eyes dark ; their teeth short, white and firmly 
set ; and their frames spare, but straight, alert, and sinewy. Many 
are very handsome. 

Language. — The language spoken over all the parish is, with 
exception of that of some Gaelic incomers, a dialect of the low- 
land Scottish. It is distinguished, however, by several peculiari- 
ties. Wherever the classical Scottish has wh^ the dialect of the 
parish of Wick has^; as^a^ for what, fan for whan ; and where- 
ever the Scottish has t/, this dialect has ee ; as seen for sune^ meen 
fqr muneyfeel tor fide. Ch at the beginning of words is softened 
into 5, or sh ; as, mrch for church ; shapel for chapel. Th at the 
beginning of words is often omitted. She^ her^ and hersKve almost 
invariably used for it and its. This seems a Gaelic idiom ; and the 
tendency to pronounce s and cA, as shy seems a relic of Gaelic 
pronunciation. 

Habits. — At all seasons of the year, whisky is drunk in consider- 
able quantities, but during the fishing season enormous potations arc 
indulged in. It may seem incredible, but it has been ascertained, 

3 



WICK. 145 

that, during the six weeks of a successful fishing, not less thaa 
500 gallons a day were consumed. Let it be remembered, how- 
ever, that at that period 10,000 strangers, as boatmen, gutters, 
&C. were crowded into the town of Wick. Of late years, the 
people have been more temperate. Snuffing is almost universal 
among the men, and both it and smoking are very common among 
the women. About L.3,500 a-year are spent in the parish of 
Wick on tobacco. 

Character, — The parishioners of Wick are shrewd and atten- 
tive to their own interest. Their shrewdness, however, sometimes 
degenerates into cunning. Unchastity, both in man and woman, 
is lamentably frequent, which appears from the records of the kirk- 
session to have been always the case. They possess, notwithstand- 
ing, many most estimable qualities. They are remarkable for 
natural afiection, and show much kindness to their poorer neigh- 
bours. No small respect is evinced by the commonalty for the 
ordinances of religion ; family worship is prevalent among them ; 
the Sabbath is much regarded; and their attendance on the 
preaching of the Gospel is most laudable. 

Smuggling is all but unknown, excepting between the fishers 
and the French fishing-boats during the season of the herring- 
fishery. Poaching is not frequent ; and there is not a pawnbroker 
in the parish. 

IV. — Industry. 
The state of agriculture in the parish of Wick, previously to 1790, 
was extremely curious, and its arrangements as hostile as they pos- 
sibly could be to all improvement. Each property was divided into 
townlands. In every townland there were what was called " the 
mains," which consisted of a farm, on which were a barn and a 
stack-yard. The proprietor retained the mains in his own hand. 
The remainder of the townland was divided into what were called 
penny-lands, halfpenny-lands, farthing-lands, and octos. These 
were measured out by shrewd countrymen, called land-riders, 'or 
more properly land-redders, for they did not ride. In accomplish- 
ing their work, they spaced six spaces as the breadth of a rig of corn- 
land, and 240 as the length. This they denominated a firlot-sowing 
of oats. This multiplied by four, the number of firlots in a boll, gave 
5760 square spaces, being precisely the number of Scotch ells in a 
statute Scotch acre. The land-redders knew nothing about survey- 
ing, nor had ever heard of a chain, or of an acre ; yet it must be 

CAITHNESS. K. 



146 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

plain, that, long before the memory of man, their measqrement 
must have been founded on actual mensuration by the chain. 

The grass-land, outfield, or in arable, was assigned in 6xed 
proportions to these different divisions ; and a certain rent, vary- 
ing in different townlands, was laid on the grass-land, and a cer- 
tain quantity of grain to be paid for the corn-land of these various 
penny, halfpenny, farthing, and octo lands. The townland of 
Papigoe, for instance, in the neighbourhood of the town of Wick, 
was divided into fifteen penny-lands, one halfpenny-land, and half 
an octo. Every penny-land paid eleven bolls of corn, or farm as 
it was called, and no money. The townland of Kilminister was 
red into thirty-six penny-lands, each one of which paid four bolls 
of farm, and L.5, 6s. 8d. Scots as rent of the grass-land. To 
render the state of matters still more opposed to all improvement, 
the custom of run-rig was common. This most barbarous cus- 
tom was said to have originated in times of universal and inces- 
sant feuds, as a preservative against one neighbour's setting fire 
to the field of another, and to make the whole townland equally 
anxious to resist an enemy in case of invasion. 

These penny-lands, &c., were let to small tenants, who, be- 
sides the rent already specified, yielded an infinite variety of 
minute services to the landlord. The tenants of each penny- 
land, for instance, had to bring out their own plough, fully equip- 
ped, early in spring, and plough half an acre of oat-land in the mains, 
— to send a man to sow the seed, — to send their harrows and har- 
row the ground,— to send two persons to carry on the horses' 
backs, for there was not a cart in all the parish, the manure in 
straw baskets, called caizies, for the bear-land, — to lay the manure 
on, — to send a plough and till the bear-land, — to sow the seed,— 
to harrow it with their own harrows : in summer, to mow the na- 
tural grass, — to make it into hay, — to cart it, — to carry it to the 
yard with their own carts, — to build it into stacks, — to send a per- 
son to weed the corn, — to cast 400 feal for building houses, and 
300 divots for thatching them : in harvest, to cut down a certain 
quantity of corn, — to carry it, and build it in the stack-yard, — to 
furnish a certain number of winlins to thatch the mains' stacks, a 
certain quantity of drawn straw to thatch the mains' houses, and 
a certain quantity of simmins^ that is, plaited straw-ropes, to bind 
down the thatch, — to thrash a certain quantity of corn in the 
barn, — to dry it in the kiln, — to carry it to the mill, — to carry the 
meal thence to the girnel, and to ship it on board for exportation, 



WICK. 14? 

— to carry one letter in rotation to any person in Caithness, — to 
give a certain portion of peats, — to dress a certain quantit;y of lint, 
— to winter a certain number of cattle — to pay one fat lamb, two 
geese, hens, chickens, eggs, &c &c. The land-redders laid ofiF to 
each penny-land such a proportion of arable land as they thought 
would sow twelve bolls of small oats, or eight bolls of bear. Of 
the natural grass-land assigned to each penny-land the tenant had 
exclusive possession only till the corn was off the ground, when 
the whole again became common till the next spring. Instead of 
being encouraged to take in and imprpve any part of the outfield- 
land, the tenants were expressly debarred from doing so, or, in the 
country phrase, corrupting the leases, and were prohibited from 
cultivating any more than the portion of corn-land which had been 
ridden ofi" to them* ' 

The state of agriculture was what might have been expected 
from such wretched arrangements. There was not a cart in the 
whole county. Not a potato, nor a turnip, nor sown grass was 
known. No rotation of cropping was observed, except that the 
arable land was always alternately in oats and bear, the .manure 
being invariably put to the bear»crop. Not a drain was dug; and 
not a fence was to be seen except about a field or two round the 
proprietors* houses. 

This extraordinary mode of farming went on without any change 
till 1790. In 1782, Sir Benjamin Dunbar, the present Lord 
Duffus, succeeded his father. He found all the townlands on the 
whole of his extensive estates in Wick, comprising the half of the 
parish, under lease to middle- men, who paid him only the money 
rent payable by the small tenant for the orrass-land, and 6s. 8d. 
for each boll of eight stone and a half, paid by them for the corn- 
land. Thus the middle-men had the mains of each townland, and 
the services of the subtenantry free. Sir Benjamin, aware of what 
was passing in other countries, determined to put an end to this 
wretched system, which had immemorially prevailed. Having as« 
certained on what principles the land-redders divided and appor-* 
tioned the land, he had the whole of his numerous townlands 
measured with the chain, abolished the middlemen, converted all 
the services of the tenants into money, and granted them leases 
at a fixed rent The result of this enlightened procedure was 
most advantageous. Tillage was extended, better modes of cul- 
tivation were introduced, land was improved, the rental of the pro- 
prietor increased, while the tenantry were delivered from their 



148 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

former degrading vassalage, and their comfort and respectability 
greatly promoted. When Sir Benjamin Dunbar came into pos- 
session of his estate, there were but a very few farm-houses on it 
built with stone ; now, there are very few, if indeed any, built of turf. 
The great improvement of land within the parish of Wick may 
be seen from the following statement. In 1666, the valued rent 
of the parish was L.6977, 6s. 8d. Scots. In the corrected rental 
of last ceutiiry, it stood thus : 

or the landward part of the parish, . L.6870 2 

Of the burgh, . . 166 13 4 

Toul, . L.65d6 13 6 Scots. 

In 1700, the real rent was L.1000 Sterling. In 1728, the vic- 
tual beintr converted at L.4, ds. 4d. Scot^, it was L. 13,659, IDs. 
lOd. Scots, equal to L.1138, 5s, lOd. Sterling. 

In 1 830, the real rent of the landward part of the parish was, L. 12,000 

burgh of Wick, L.3544 9 

Louisburgh and Blaekrock, 1250 
Stazigoe, Broadhaven, and 

Papigoe, . 1834 2 

Pultencytown, . 7333 13 

Banks and Bankhead, 251 14,213 4 



Total in Sterling money, . L.26,21d 4 



As to particular estates ; in 1753, the rental of Hempriggs was, L.642 2 3 

Ulbster, . 94 8 

in 1804, the rental of Thrumster, . 180 

in 1814, Stirkoke, . 611 

Ulbster, . . 214 3 
in 1830, Hempriggs, exclusively 

of Pulteneytown, was 5607 18 6 

Stirkoke, . 1834 

Thrumster, . 947 

Ulbster, . . 493 

In 1792, the rent of the best land ranged from 10s. to 15s. per 
acre. In all the parish at that period, there were of sown grass 
only 12 or 14 acres at Hempriggs, 8 in possession of the minister, 
and a few patches between Wick and Staxigoe. There was not a 
cart in the parish, the ploughs were of the very rudest description, 
drawn by three or four worthless horses, with, perhaps, a couple 
of cows to assist, a lad tugging them on before, and a man holding 
the single stilt behind. Such a phenomenon may yet indeed be 
seen, even in 1841. The commenced improvement of the dis- 
trict, however, had already beneficially affected the wages of la- 
bour and the price of provisions. In 1792, ploughmen, who had, 
some years before, had no more than from Ids. 4d. to 18s. the 
half year, got from L.1 to L.1, 8s. ; women-servants, who had, for 
the half year, had from 6s. 8d. got from L.1, to L. 1, 4s.; day- 



WICK. 149 

labourers got from 6d. to lOd. a day; women were hired for the 
harvest at 6d. a day and a bannock ; and domestic servants had 
raised their half-yearly wages from 6s. Sd. to 13s. Provisions 
brought the following prices : those which had sold at Id. per pound 
rose to 2d. ; hens fetched 3^d, a piece ; cocks dd. ; and chickens 
1^. ; eggs were Id. per dozen; geese, which had sold at 8d a 
piece, brought Is. 6d. ; and corn, which, in 1762, had sold at from 
5s. to 8s. a boll, brought in 1792, from 10s. to 18s. 

In 1840, the average rent of arable land was from L. I, 5s. to 
L.1, 10s. an acre. A ploughman got for the half year L. 4, lOs. 
and victuals ; a woman for the same term L. 1, 10s. and victuals ; 
day-labourers earned in summer from Is. 6d. a day, to 2s. ; in 
winter, about 2s. ; women in summer, 8d. a day ; in winter, 6d. ; 
men got as harvest fee, L. 1, 10s., with a weekly allowance of four- 
teen pounds of meal ; and women L.1, with a weekly allowance of 
twelve pounds. Wool brought from L. 1, 4s. to L.1, 68. a stone. 
The price of mason- work from L.1, 15s. to L.2 per rood ; and of 
three feet dikes from Is. 2d. to Is. dd. a yard. A good cart 
brought from L.10 to L.l 1 ; and an iron plough, L. 3, 10s. Bear, 
on an average of the last five years, brought L.1, 4s. per quarter; 
and oats, L.1, Is. ; potatoes were 12s. per boll; turnips, L. 5 per 
acre ; and hay was about 6d. per stone. In 1 840, the price of oat- 
meal was 15s. per boll ; of bear-meal, 12s. per boll ; of beef per 
pound, 4^d. ; of fowls, from 6d. to 9d. a piece ; and of eggs per 
dozen, about 4d. 

The average rent of grazing for the year is at the rate of L.6 
per ox or cow; and of L.1 per sheep on inland, and of 8s. on 
moory patsure. 

Live-Stock. — Of cattle there are two breeds. In the Jirst place, 
the pure Highland, which has been much improved of late years 
by the introduction of bulls and breeding cows, selected from the 
best Highland stocks in Scotland. Secondly^ crosses from the 
short-horned bull and Highland cows have been introduced, and 
answer well, especially for feeding, as they are brought at an early 
age to a great size and weight ; and, since the introduction of steam 
conveyance, can be conveniently sent to the southern or metropo- 
litan markets. The common breed of sheep is the Cheviot. This 
is crossed by the Leicester tup ; and the cross thrives remarkably 
well. These sorts of stock are the most profitable, taken together 
with the present improved system of agriculture and rotation of 
crops. Both sheep and cattle, indeed, are in such a forward state 
of improvement, as to be capable of being brought into competition 



160 ' CAITHNKSS-SHIUE. 

with those of the southern districts, and of late years have carried 
off several premiums at the Highland Society's shows. 

In 1833, there were 12,375 acres under the plough* Very 
great additions have since been made to this amount Extensive 
inroads are made upon the waste lands every year. In reclaiming 
waste land, it is ploughed and fallowed for one or more years, as 
the soil may require, in order to pulverize it. Then lime is laid 
on the ground at the rate of from thirty to forty bolls, or marl from 
eighty to 100 bolls an acre. The ground having been thus pre- 
pared, is sown with white crop, and afterwards with turnips, oats, 
and grass, each year in succession. A vast extent of waste land 
has been reclaimed under this system. 

Thorough draining is indispensable to the improvement of land 
in the parish of Wick. Furrow-draining has lately been intro- 
duced, but has not yet been extensively practised. The most ad- 
vantageous rotation of crops is the six-shift. This is chiefly followed 
on the larger farms. On these, also, the fields are generally en- 
closed either with ditches, stone walls, or quickset hedges, which, 
in many places, with pains bestowed on them, thrive very well. 

The value of the whole produce from agriculture in 1833 wa» 
L. 37,120, of which about L. 34,418 were for grain, &c There 
is no account of the value of the live-stock at any period. 

Of the smaller farmers, the younger and more active follow the 
larger as closely as their limited means will allow : but still it 
must be confessed, that a considerable number lag behind, and, from 
want of skill, capital, or activity, plod on in very nearly the system 
observfed by their forefathers. It would appear, indeed, that a very 
great number of the farms are much too small. They do not 
afford employment all the year round to the farmer and his gar^ 
rons. He thus is obliged to drive peats into Wick, or at times to 
work at day's-wages to the larger farmers, or at any other kind 
of employment that he can fall in with. Many of them betake 
themselves to the sea in the fishing-season. Their means are 
scanty ; their education is therefore often very limited ; their 
houses are bad ; and their children grow up and have their habits 
formed in total ignorance of what, in the southern parts of Scot- 
land, are reckoned necessaries of life ; and this state of matters, 
without any desire of improvement, is thus, in numerous instances, 
perpetuated from father to son. It might, perhaps, ultimately be 
well for the population of this district, if those numerous insignifi- 
cant patches of land were laid together, and formed into farms 



WICK. • 151 

of from L.dO to L.lOO of annual rent, taking care that there should 
be the greater number at the smaller rent between L.dO and L.60. 
The state of capital and the physical character of the district appa« 
rentiy point out this as a desirable arrangement. In effectingit, how- 
ever, very much tenderness ought to be shown. All great changes 
ought to be gradual. The viofent and extensive ejection of small 
tenants, not having the means of supporting themselves and fami* 
lies till other sources of support are discovered and made availabloi 
always occasions an amount of suffering, that can neither be com« 
pensated nor atoned for by any consequent agricultural improve- 
ments. 

Lea}te8. — At present, leases are given, varying from fourteen to 
twenty years in duration. If leases are not taken too high, they 
plainly form a great encouragement to the tenant. But they like- 
wise are as evidently beneficial to the landlord. The tenant is 
induced to lay out both capital and labour in improving his farm^ 
by which means the landlord's estate is improved. The relation^ 
indeed, of landlord and tenant involves many reciprocal advantages, 
obligations, and duties. The comfort of the landlord and his 
prosperity will be deeply involved in the character, comfort, and 
prosperity of his tenantry. He should, therefore, endeavour to 
store his estates not only with the best cattle, but with the best 
men. It is as much his interest as his duty to promote, both by 
precept and example, Christianity on his estates. This would be 
the parent of all improvement. God has placed the heritors of 
Scotland in most responsible situations. A Christian landlord is 
an unspeakable blessing to all under his influence, and, next to an 
unchristian minister, an unchristian heritorship is about the great- 
est curse that can befall a parish. 

Fisheries. — There is a small salmon-fishery in the Bay and 
River of Wick. Probably about 150 men are engaged all the 
year round in the white-fishery, on the coasts of the parish. 

This, however, is of v^ry trifling importance indeed, in compari* 
son of the herring-fishery, which is carried on to a great extent in 
this district. From time immemorial vast shoals of herrings have 
frequented the coast They were, however, in ancient days, almost 
completely neglected. For nearly 200 years the people contented 
themselves with catching a few fish on rude iron hooks, and proceed* 
ing with that excellent bait to the cod-fishing. About the beginning 
of the eighteenth century, nets began to be used. Some time after- 
wards, the attention of Government was directed to the fishery, and 



152 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

bounties were offered for its encouragement In ITG?, John Soth* 
erland of Wester, John Anderson of Wick, and Alexander Mil- 
ler of Staxigoe, fitted out two sloops on the bounty, which, how- 
ever, by some informality, they lost Next year, they fitted out one 
sloop again, fished successfully, and, though with some difficulty, 
recovered the bounty. This adventure not having been very en- 
couraging, their ardour abated for some years ; but the place of 
rendezvous having been at last altered, the herring-fishery there- 
after annuallv increased. Adventurers came from Aberdeen, and 
from the Orkneys, and established the fishing at Staxigoe, and 
took leases of 99 years' duration, for the purpose of building stores 
and houses for the curing of red-herring. Those enterprising fish- 
curers employed boats and crews from Avoch and the neighbouring 
towns, on the southern side of the Moray Frith ; but these fisher- 
men never went farther from the shore in search of fish than a 
mile or two, when, if they did not find any, they concluded that 
none were on the coast. In 1786, the British Society for extend- 
ing the Fisheries, and improving the sea-coasts of the Kingdom, 
was incorporated by Act of Parliament. This incorporation great- 
ly promoted the fishery. A great number of boats and crews from 
the Frith of Forth began to come northwards to the fishing, and 
the crews, being more adventurous, sought for the fish at the dis- 
tance of ten or twelve miles from the shore, with most encourag- 
ing success. In 1782, 363 barrels of white herring were export- 
ed. In 1790, there were at Wick 32 boats, measuring 1610 tons, 
on the bounty. That year, there were 10,514 barrels of white, 
and above 2000 of red-herrings exported, besides about 700, es- 
timated to have been consumed in the county. In 1808, the British 
Fishing Society, incorporated, as has been mentioned, in 1786, 
commenced their establishment of Pulteneytown, by making a 
harbour for the accommodation of boats and shipping, and by 
granting feus in perpetuity for building on liberal terms. In 1809, 
commissioners were appointed by Act of Parliament, for the pur- 
pose of promoting and regulating this branch of national industry. 
Under improved methods of curing, introduced by the commis- 
sioners, and an additional bounty granted by Parliament in 1815, 
the fishery increased so rapidly, that, in 1824, the British Fishery 
Society commenced the construction of an outer harbour, which, 
having been finished, rendered the port both safe and commodious. 
This measure consolidated the prosperity of the Wick herring- 



^ICK. 153 

fishery. It now could afford to lose the Parliamentary bounties, 

which, in 1 830, were withdrawn. 

The shoals of herrings appear on the coast about the middle 

of July, when the 6shing is immediately begun. It is continued 

for eight or ten weeks. The fishing stations within the parish 

are at Keiss, Staxigoe, Broadhaven, Wick, and Sarclet. The 

average annual number of boats employed for the last ten years is 

about 900 ; and the average annual quantity of fish taken for the 

last twenty years is 88,500 barrels. The price of a boat with its 

fleet of nets and everything complete, is from L.140 to L.I50 

Sterling. Each boat on an average generally fishes from 100 to 

150 crans, at a price of from 10s. to 12s. per cran. A barrel of 

cured herrings costs L.I. 

The following table shows the state of the herring-fishery at 
Wick in 1840: 

Native boats, . 428 

Strange boats, . 837 



Total of boau. 


765 


Crews of said boats. 
Coopers, 

Women employed as gutters, &c. 
Labourers, . '. • 
CarterSf . . . 
Other labourers employed about the fishing. 
Seamen in coasting vessels (supposed), 
Fish-curers entered, 


d,82B 

265 

2,175 

46 

127 

150 

1,200 

91 


Total of persons employed. 


7,882 


Total of barrels cured, 


63,495 


Barrels bung.packed, branded. 


10,333 


Barrels exported to Ireland, 
To other places in Europe, 


51,250 
4,461 



Total of barrels exported, 55,711 

The herring-fishery has in a very rapid manner increased the 
population, and augmented the rental of the parish, and the pe- 
cuniary resources of many of the parishioners ; but whether it has 
added to the happiness and comfort of the people at large, may 
well foe questioned. If it has increased the wealth, it has also 
increased the wickedness of the district ; and any one acquaint- 
ed with the sources of happiness well knows that *' a man's 
life consisteth not in the abundance of the things which he pos- 
sesseth." Very great care was taken to promote the numbers 
and success of the fishers of herrings, but little or no care to pro- 
mote either the number or success of the fishers of men. The 



154 CAITHNES9-SUIRE. 

result which invariably follows such conduct has ensued. The 
population rapidly increased ; rents, wages, and prices rose ; build- 
ings were erected, and all things seemed prosperous. But there 
was a worm in this blossom of happiness. The means of grace 
and of pastoral superintendence were not extended* Multitudes 
escaped altogether beyond their blissful influence. No care was 
taken of the 10,000 young strangers of both sexes who were 
crowded together with the inhabitants within the narrow limits of 
Wick during the six principal weeks of the fishing, exposed to 
tirink and numerous other temptations. The consequences have 
been such, as any one acquainted with the propensities of fallea 
humanity might easily have foreseen ; and results have verified 
the declaration of the prophet, that " the ungodly who earneth 
wages, earneth wages to put them into a bag full of holes.*^ A 
people cannot be exalted without righteousness, and with right- 
eousness they cannot be degraded ; but morality cannot be com- 
municated nor upheld without the full and abundant administra- 
tion of the Gospel. When will legislators, heritors, and merchants 
be convinced of this ? 

Mamifactures. — There are in Wick and Pulteneytown four 
rope-works, which employ, besides the masters, 75 men, with 
occasional hands. The first of these commenced in 1820. All 
the rope which they produce is consumed in this port. There is 
one distillery and brewery, which employs 12 men ; one meal and 
barley-mill, which employs 5 ; four saw-mills, three of which are 
driven by steam and one by water, employ 26 hands. A manu- 
factory of pavement for exportation employs from 60 to 80 work- 
men. There is a ship-building yard, commenced in 1815, with 
always one or two vessels on the stocks, employing about 50 ship- 
wrights. Twelve boat-building yards employ from 70 to 80, who 
launch from 80 to 100 boats annually. There has lately been 
established in Pulteneytown an iron-foundery, which gives em- 
ployment to from 6 to 8 men, and promises to be prosperous* 
A Gas Company was formed in 1840, whose works are iti the 
course of being erected ; and it is to be hoped, that, by another 
winter, both Wick and Pulteneytown will be lighted with gas. 
There are 266 coopers in the parish. The principal, almost, in- 
deed, the sole occupation of females in and about the towns, is the 
spinning of yarn and making it into nets for the herring-fishing. 
At this they can earn the miserable pittance of only 24d. or dd. 
a day. 



WICK. 155 

Navigation. — A little trade has been carried on from the port 
of Wick from very early times. In 1588, Alexander Earl of 
Sutherland burnt the town of Wick, and spoiled the ship and 
plundered the goods of Andrew Wardlaw, a merchant. 

In 1840, twenty-one ships were registered at the port of Wick, 
amounting to 1154 tons. The tonnage of the ships which have 
entered this port for the last twenty years may have been about 
30,000 tons annually ; and the yearly number of sailors a'bout 
3000. 

A steam-boat began to run from Wick to Leith in 1833, once 
a fortnight. The Sovereign steam-boat of 200 horse-power, which 
commences for the season in March, and is laid up in November, 
makes a voyage, once a week, between Lerwick, Kirkwall, Wick, 
Aberdeen and Leith. It carries passengers, stock, and goods ; 
and has been of the greatest advantage, not to Wick only, but to 
Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland. Two smacks ply, each once 
a fortnight, between and Leith. There is at Wick a Chamber of 
Commerce. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market'Town. — Wick is the market-town of this parish. It is 

a place of great antiquity ; and was at the request of the Earl of 
Caithness, of whose earldom it formed a part, erected into a royal 
burgh on the 25th of September 1589. The superiority of it has 
been bought and sold by the Sinclairs of Caithness, the Glenor- 
chys, the Sinclairs of Ulbster, and the Sutherlands ; but the Re- 
form Bill has reduced this once potential privilege to feebleness. 
It is, therefore, now little valued. The set of the burgh con<» 
sists of a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and 
seven councillors. There are no corporations or crafts in this 
burgh. At Michaelmas 1755, the number of burgesses amount- 
ed to 53; at the same term in 1801, to 29; and in 1832, when 
the roll was last made up, to 66, About 15 have since been ad* 
ded. The dues payable on the admission of a burgess amount to 
1^4, 4s. 

In 1660, the customs were let at L.55 Scots; in 1686, at 
L.63, 10s. The ordinary revenue for 1840, was. 

Rent of customs, ... 

Do. of House in Bridge Street, • 

Do. of street manure^ 

Do. of curing stations, 

Receipts for freedom of trade and burgess dues, 

Feu-dutics, «... 

Total, 



L.ao 





6 10 





5 





7 5 





4 19 





21 4 


6 


L.74 18 


"^ 



156 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

This may be considered as a fair average of the ordinary burghal 
revenues of Wick, for several years by-past. The expenditure b 
about L.70 a year. There is no debt. 

The records begin, " In the name of the Father, the Sone, and 
the Holy Ghoste. At the burgh of Weick, the sext day of 
Januarii, 1660 yeares." They are not voluminous, and are oc- 
cupied with ordinary burghal business. 

In 1 840, the population of Wick was. 

Males, 561 ; Females, 693; Total, 1254. 
The noinber of fiimilies was 900. 

There is no police. 

The land-tax of the royal burgh, recoverable from feuars aud 
traders, is L.ll, 14s. The rental amounts to L.2600. 

The church and parish school, the town and county buildings, 
and the jail, are within the royal burgh. 

The trade of Wick consists in the export of herring, and of live^ 
stock and grain, and of the import of such articles as the wants of 
the district require. 

Wick is the county town. The sheriff has held his ordinary 
court here since 1828, when the Court of Session decided in fa- 
vour of Wick, in the process of removal of the court from Thurso, 
where they had previously been held from time immemorial. 
The Custom-house establishment has also been removed hither 
from Thurso. The customs in 1839 amounted to L.20QS. A 
weekly market, well frequented, is held in Wick on Friday. 

Parliamentary Burgh. — The royal burgh of Wick, from the 
date of its erection to the Union, sent a commissioner to the Scot- 
tish Parliament At the Union, it was associated with Kirkwall, 
Dornock, Tain, and Dingwall, in the return of one member to 
the British House of Commons. By the Reform Act, Cromarty 
was united to this batch, the bounds of Wick as a Parliamen- 
tary burgh were enlarged, and it was constituted the returning 
burgh. 

The village of Louisburgh, built on leases of 99 years, from 
Lord Duffus, lies contiguously to the royal burgh of Wick, on the 
northern side ; and that of Pulteneytown, commenced in 1808^ by 
the British Fishery Society, is separated from the latter on the 
south by the bay, and united to it by a bridge of three arches, 
over the River of Wick. Wick, Louisburgh, and Pulteneytown, 
with the manse and lower glebe, Bankhead, and a few more other 
places included within the boundary^ compose the Parliamentary 

o 



WICK. 157 

burgh of Wick. The number of proprietors of houses worth L.IO 
and upwards in the Parliamentary burgh is 181 ; of L. 10 house- 
holders, 233 ; and of voters, 257, of whom 88 are enrolled on pre- 
mises within the royal burgh. The rental of the Parliamentary 
burgh is L. 4770. 

In 1840, the population of the Parliamentary bui^h was as 
follows : 

Males. Females. Total. 

Of Wick, - 561 . 693 - 1254 

Of Pulteneytown, &c. 1329 - 1680 . 2959 

Of Loulsburgh, &c 170 . 209 - 379 

Total, 2060 2532 4592 

The number of families was. 

In Wick, - 300 

In Pulteneytown, ^c. 683 

In Louisburgh, &c. 80 

The number of inhabited houses, 1578. 

Villages. — The village of Broad Haven, which is a fishing station 
with 170 inhabitants, is about a mile along the northern shore 
from Wick. A mile farther on, is that of Staxigoe, not far from. 
Castle Girnigoe, containing 261 inhabitants. It is a place of 
some antiquity. Two store-houses of the Earls of Caithness, built 
250 years ago, are still standing there and in good order. They 
contain 4 meal-girnels, each girnel capable of holding 1000 bolls 
of meal ; and 4 lofts, each capable of containing 1 000 bolls of bear. 
These were necessary when rents were paid in kind. Staxigoe is 
another fishing station, with a tolerably good natural harbour for 
boats. The village of Sarclet, on the estate of Thrumster, lies 
about five miles to the south of Wick. It is situated on the top. 
of a small bank overhanging a small cove, which, at considerable 
expense, has been converted into a pretty good harbour for fish- 
ing-boats. 

Means of Communication. — Wick is a post-town. In 1829 the 
revenue of the post-office amounted to L.1200 a-year. A daily 
mail-coach from Thurso passes through the town to the south 
in the morning, 'and another from the south through the town to 
Thurso at night. The mail-coach commenced to run on the 
15th of July 1819. A daily post-gig runs between Wick and 
Huna, from which latter place the letters for Orkney are dis- 
patched twice a-week. A steam-boat of 200 horse-power pliea 
once a-week, from March till November, between Lerwick, Kirk- 
wall, Wick| Aberdeen, and Leith. 

The Huna road, entering the parish from the north at Nybster^ 



158 CAITIINESS-SHIRC. 

passes through Keiss, and close to the lower end of the Loch of 
Wester, near which it is joined by the new line from Bower. 
Crossing the Water of Wester by a bridge of two arches, this 
road joins the one from Castleton, at a short distance to the west of 
the House of Keiss. Its length within the parish is seven miles, and 
that of the new Bower road nearly four; the road from Castleton, in 
the parish of Olrig, enters the parish of Wick at Kirk, and, cross* 
ing the Moss of Kilminister, where there are two or three trifling 
bridges, continues in a pretty straight line till it approaches the 
town, where it bends to the south, and, passing the manse and the 
church, joins the main-street of Wick, at a distance from Kirk of 
eight miles. Before it reaches the manse, it is joined from the west 
by the road from Wattin through Sibster-Wick. This road mea- 
sures seven miles, and is not yet completed through the townland of 
Winless. From the Castleton road a branch is sent through 
Lfouisburgh along the coast- by Papigoe and Broad Haven to 
Staxigoe, a distance of about two miles. The Parliamentary 
road from Thurso enters the parish of Wick three-quarters of a 
mile to the west of Bilbster House, and runs in a tolerably straight 
line down the south side of the River of Wick, till it joins the south 
road at Rosebank, a distance of six miles and a half. The south 
road, on passing from the town, crosses the river of Wick on a 
plain stone bridge of three arches, which cost L.1700, and runs 
io a winding direction through the estates of Hempriggs, Tbrum- 
ster, and Ulbster, till it leaves the parish at the Mission House of 
Bruan, a distance of about eight miles. A new county road leaves the 
north Parliamentary road at Stirkoke, and, passing through Tan- 
nach, joins the south Parliamentary road at Thrumster, a distance 
of about four miles and a half. A road runs from the south Parlia- 
mentary road to Sarclet, a distance of about two miles. All these 
roads are of the very best description. The whole extent of road 
in the parish is very nearly fifty miles, of which the Parliamentary 
line measures fourteen. 

Harbours. — The harbourets of Sarclet, Broad Haven, and 
Staxigoe, have already been mentioned. A small harbour has 
been made at Keiss. The only harbour originally on the coast of 
this parish, was the mouth of the River of Wick, into which the 
M'Farlan MS. says, that vessels of between thirty and forty lasts 
burden could enter. In 1810, the British Fishery Society com- 
pleted a harbour in the Bay of Wick, at an expense of L. 14,000, 
of which L.8500 were defrayed by Government, capable of con- 



WICK. 159 

taining 100 decked vessels. From the great increase of trade 
consequent on the prosperity of the herring-fishery, this harbour 
soon became quite inadequate, and a new one was planned, and 
in 1831 completed, at an expense of L. 40,000. It is unhappily 
exposed to the swell of the sea, which rolls in from the mouth of 
the bay. 

The best. place, it is said, for a harbour on the eastern coast of 
Caithness, is at Sinclair's Bay, which is a part of the Bay of 
Keiss between Ackergill and Castle Gimigoe. 

Ecclesiastical State. — We learn from Tertullian that, before his 
time, Christianity was planted in parts of Britain which had been 
inaccessible to the Roman arms. There is good reason for be^^ 
lieving that, before this period, tlie Romans had a settlement to the 
north of the Grampians, of which Pteroton, hodiernally Inverness, 
was the capital. The Christian churches to which Tertullian alhides 
were collected from among the Celtic tribes, who seem to have 
occupied, in these ancient days, the whole of modern Scotland, up 
to the Pentland Frith. Their ministe>s were styled Culdees, from 
Cuildich, dwellers in remote or sequestered places : and it was aU 
ways asserted by them, that their church had been planted by the 
immediate disciples of the Apostle John. The Pechts, who had 
invaded and subjugated the Celts, were heathens. The seat of 
their king was near Inverness, and their kingdom stretched north- 
wards to the Pentland Frith. In 566, ths Pechtish sovereign, 
Brudy II. was converted and baptized by Colum, Abbot or Presi- 
dent of the Presbyterian College of lona. At the Pechtish court 
Colum met an Orcadian prince, to whose protection, at the 
Culdee's request, Brudy recommended certain missionaries in 
Orkney. Presbyterian ministers, or Culdees from lona, styled 
also l-colum-killi, the Island of Colum of the Cells, in allusion 
to the numerous churches which he planted, and from others 
of their colleges, were speedily settled over all the west and north 
of Scotland. The places of their residence are generally denot- 
ed by the prefix AtV, which evidently signified a Culdean church ; 
as Kilmarnock, Kildonan, &c. One of them had jirobably his re- 
sidence within the parish of Wick, at a place called Kilminister, 
which, in pronunciation, is often shortened into Kilminster, Kilim^' 
ster, and Kilmster. In the very middle of the Moss of Kilminister 
are the ruins of a building, called unto this day the Kirk o' Moss. A 
causeway, the traces of which are yet distinctly visible, led through 
the deep and otherwise impassable bog to this ancient place of 



160 CAITI1NESS*SHIRE. 

worship, which stood on a little knoll. This situation correspond-^ 
ed exactly with the predilection of the Culdees, who loved, in these 
ferocious times, remote and sequestered residences, whence, in-^ 
deed, they had their distinctive appellation. 

Presbyterianism, derived from the scriptures and Apostolic days, 
continued for ages the form of ecclesiastical government in the 
Scottish Church, unmixed with Prelacy till 909, when Constantine 
the Third appointed Kellach bishop of St Andrews. At this pe- 
riod, the Norwegians established themselves in Caithness, and pa- 
tronized the heathen deities. About 100 vears afterwards, how- 
ever, the Scandinavian idolatry gave place to the Romish ; the 
Norsemen of Caithness and Orkney having been converted by, 
certain papal ecclesiastics, backed'by the sword of Olaf King of 
Norway. Malcolm Canmore, who began to reign in 1066, found- 
ed the prelature of Caithness, comprehending Caithness and Su- 
therland, and made Dar, one of his favourites, the prelate. Po- 
pery flourished apace within the diocese. Besides the Kirk of 
Wick, there were within the bounds of the parish, the Kirk of 
Ulbster, dedicated to St Martin; the Kirk of Thrumster ; the Kirk 
of Hauster, dedicated to St Cuthbert ; the Kirk of St Ninian, at the 
Head of Wick ; St Mary's Kirk at Sibster ; the Kirk of St Tears, 
dedicated to the Holy Innocents, near Ackergill; the Kirk of 
Moss, latterly dedicated to St Duthoc ; the Kirk of Keiss ; and 
the Kirk of Strubster. The Kirk of Ulbster is yet entire, and 
has been converted into a family tomb. Several of the burial- 
places attached to the other kirks are yet in use. Around the 
ruins of the Kirk of Moss, there are about twelve acres, said to 
have been under tillage so late as 1689. 

In Caithness, the progress of the Reformation was very slow. 
Only Wick and Thurso had ministers in 1567 ; the rest of the pa- 
rishes of the county were supplied by readers and exhorters. In 
1576, Dunnet, Halkirk, and Wick had each a minister and a 
reader. The other parishes appear to have been entirely desti- 
tute of teachers. Wick, apparently, was visited soon afterwards 
with a long vacancy. The people, in these circumstances, con- 
tinued attached to popish superstition. They were accustomed to 
visit the chapels with which the parish abounded, and pay their 
devotions to the stone images of their tutelary saints and saintesses. 
Dr Richard Mercheston, minister of Bower in 1613, exerted him- 
self to suppress this atrocious and debasing sin, and procured the 
demolition of the stone images. On his return homewards, he was 
drowned by the blind and infuriated idolaters. It was given out. 



WICK. 161 

however^ that it was the saints who did it ; and that a lapideous 
saintess, whom he had cast down and broken to pieces, the day be- 
foroi was seen a*top of him in the water. 

The minister, however, and kirk-session were anxious to ptii an 
end to such humiliating superstitions, and the sessional records 
bear evidence of their zeal. But, notwithstanding all their exer- 
tions, hagiolatry still lurked in the parish of Wick. Within the 
' memory of persons yet living, it was customary for people to visit 
the Chapel of St Tears on Innocents' day, and leave in it bread 
and cheese, as an offering to the souls of the children slain by 
Herod : but which the dog-keeper of a neighbouring gentleman 
used to take out and give to the hounds. Till within a ifew years, 
it was customary for all the inhabitants of Mirelandorn to visit 
the Kirk of Moss every Christmas before sunrise, placing on a 
stone, bread and cheese and a silver coin, which, as they alleged, 
disappeared in some mysterious way. There are still several holy 
lochs, especially one at Dunnet, to which people go from Wick, 
tmd, indeed, from all parts of Caithness, to be cured of their dis- 
eases* They cast a penny into the water, walk or are carried 
withershins around the loch, and return home. If they recover, 
their cure is ascribed to the mystic virtues of the Halie Loch ; 
and if they do not, their want of faith gets all the blame. 

The Kirk of Wick was in Popish times dedicated to St Fergus. 
It probably stood before the Reformation at Mount Hellie, or 
Halie, near the eastern end of the town. We have no account 
of the erection of the edifice in the present church-yard, of which 
the Sinclair Aisle and Dunbar Tomb are the only remnants ; but 
it must have been built before 1576. It was repaired in 1728, 
and again in 1752. A new church was erected at the close of 
the last century. This was found, soon after it was finished, to 
be very insecure. A new one became indispensable, which, after 
various delays, having been commenced, was at length finished in 
1830, at an expense of L.4780, Ids. lO^d. 

The Right Honourable Lord DufTus is patron of the parish. 

Parish Church. — Standing at the west end of the burgh, the 
parish church is very conveniently situated for the great body of 
the parishioners. Excellent roads lead towards it in all directions. 
It is nine miles from Nybster, on the north ; seven from Bruan, 
on the south ; seven and a-half from Mirelandorn, on the west; 
and about a mile from the Moray Frith, on the east It is not 
inconveniently situated for the great bulk of the parishioners ; but 

CAITHNESS. L 



162 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

those of Mirelandorn, Winless, and Bilbster, amounting to 869 
souls, while about seven miles from the church of Wick, are 
within two miles of that of Wattin. This mal-arrangement ought 
to be remedied. 

Allowing eighteen inches to a sitting, the church will conti^iD 
1981 sitters. It is seated, however, to contain only 1835. All 
the seats are said to be free. The church is well attended. 

Though much too large for the comfort either of the minister 
or of the congregation, the church of Wick does not afford nearly 
sufficient accommodation for the population of the parish. This 
deficiency is in part supplied by the mission of Bruan, and the 
quoad sacra parish of Keiss. 

Mission of Bruan, — At first, this mission comprehended Ber- 
ridale and Bruan, at which places divine worship was celebrated 
alternately. Since a parliamentary church was erected at the for- 
mer place in 1826, the labours of the missionary have been con- 
fined to Bruan. 

The mission-house is situated in the parish of Wick, but just 
within the boundary which divides it from the parish of Latheron. 
The principal part of it was built in 1798, to which an aisle was 
subsequently added. It is a very plain thatched building, capable 
of accommodating 585 sitters. The manse, on which is a debt 
of L. 50, and glebe of four acres, are within the parish of Latheron. 
The ground was generously given by the family of Ulbster. The 
missionary district comprehends the extremity of the parish of 
Latheron in the southern extremity of the parish of Wick. In 
1840, the population of the Latheron portion was 770; that of 
the Wick portion as follows : — 

Adherents of the Church, . 450 males, 491 females, toul 946 

Seceders, 21 37 58 

Independents, 10 14 24 

Total, 481 542 1028 

Almost all the inhabitants engage in fishing. 

The endowments of the mission consist of the manse and glebe, 
and L.25 Sterling annually, given by the Society in Scotland for 
Propagating Christian Knowledge. Seat-rents make up the mis- 
sionary's stipend to nearly L.100 a-year. But the district is very 
poor, and this latter source of income varies considerably. An 
additional endowment, even of L.60 a-year, would be an unspeak- 
able blessing to this important mission. 
Missionaries of Bruan.— I William Mackintosh, afterwards 



WICK. 1(>3 

minister of Thurso ; 2. John McDonald, now minister of Ferrin- 
tosh; 3, Donald M*Gillivray, afterwards minister of Kilmallie; 
4. Duncan M'Giliivray, now minister of Lairg; 6, William Su- 
therland, now in America; 6. George Davidson, now minister of 
Latheron ; 7. Archibald Cook, now minister of the North Church, 
Inverness ; 8. John Sinclair, A. M., present incumbent* 

Parish ofKeisSj quoad sacra. — The quoad sacra ^bx'i^h of Keiss 
was erected 1833, by authority of the General Assembly of the 
Church of Scotland. It is composed of the northern extremity of 
Wick and of the southern extremity of Canisbay. The boundaries 
bave not yet been settled. It is understood, however, that the 
portion which belongs to Wick is bounded on the north and north- 
east by Canisbay ; on the north-west by Bower ; on the south by 
the southern ridge of the valley of Wester ; on the east by the 
sea. The Wick portion is five miles in length, and three miles 
and a-half in average breadth. 

The church and manse were built by Government in 1827, at 
a cost of L.1500* They are situated on a rising ground at the 
northern side of the bay of Keiss. Fronting the west, they com- 
mand an extensive view of the surrounding country. On the op- 
posite side of Keiss-bay, to the left, are seen the gloomy ruins of 
castles Sinclair and Girnigoe, with the bold and rugged promon- 
tory of Noss-Head. The view is bounded in the distance, by the 
mighty hills which separate Caithness from Sutherland, called 

• Morven, Skerubin, and Maiden-Paps. 

The population of that part of the parish of Keiss which is si- 
tuated within the civil parish of Canisbay is about 200 souls. The 

• part within the civil parish of Wick contains, of males, 362 ; fe- 
males, 447 ; total, 809 ; of these, 2 are Original Seceders, 12 Ana- 
baptists, 1 is a Reformed Presbyterian, and 1 a Methodist. 

The church of Keiss, which is situated within the civil parish of 
Wick, is capable of holding about 350 sitters. Were galleries 
erected, it would accommodate 200 more. There is an endow- 
ment of L.120 granted by Government. No glebe is attached to 
the living. 

There is a register of births and marriages kept by the session - 
clerk, which commenced after the passing of an act of the Gene- 
ral Assembly in 1833, constituting the Government churches pa- 
rishes quoad sacra% 



164 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

Ministers of Keiss. — 1827, Thomas Jolly, now minister of 
Bowden ; 1829, Thomas Gun, present incumbent 

New Church at Pulteneytoum, — It is proposed still farther to 
increase church-accommodation for the parish of Wick, by the 
building of an Extension church in Pulteneytown, capable of ac- 
commodating 950 persons. Subscriptions amounting to L. 662, 
Ids. 6d. have been obtained for this most desirable object The 
foundation stone was laid on March 17, 1841. 

Missionary. — The Rev. David Mitchell has laboured assidu- 
ously, as missionary under the Church of Scotland in Pulteney- 
town, for about two years. He is supported by subscriptions* 

Notwithstanding the accommodation provided at Keiss and Bru- 
an, and that which is proposed to be'provided at Pulteneytown, the 
parish church of Wick, though large, is altogether insufficient for 
the population. After deducting the 809 included in the parish 
of Keiss, and the 1028 within the mission of Bnian, there are at 
present within the parish of Wick, quoad sacra, 1842 households^ 
comprising, of males, 3482 ; of females, 4082 ; total 7514. Tak- 
ing the number of those who ought to have church-accommoda- 
tion at the proportion of 55 to the 100, there ought to be 
church -accommodation for 4132; but the parish church can ac- 
commodate only 1835 ; thus leaving unaccommodated 2297 : Or 
if Pulteneytown ultimately shall be erected into a parish, then there 
will remain a population in the parish of Wick quoad sacra of 
6505 souls. Of these there ought to be accommodated 3577 ; but 
the church accommodates only 1835, leaving unaccommodated 
1742 : Or, making a liberal allowance for Dissenters of all de- 
scriptions, and stating their numbers at 2100, which will reduce 
the number of churchmen to 6414, of whom there ought to be 
accommodated 2977; but the church accommodates only 1835; 
thus leaving without accommodation 1142 souls. 

But the great deficiency lies in pastoral superintendence." It 
is altogether impossible for one single minister to superintend ef- 
fectively 7614 persons, or, making allowance for Dissenters, 
5414. This will appear still more evident, when the prodigious 
influx of strangers, amounting to near 10,000, during the fishing 
season, is taken into consideration. There is not a parish in 
all broad Scotland, whence issues a more urgent call for help. 
We are numerous and we are poor; and, from the fisheries 
and other causes, are exposed to many and great temptations, 



WICK. 165 

which nothing but the full, unfettered, and frequent ministrations 
of the glorious Gospel of the grace of God, carried honae on the 
heart by the power of the Holy Spirit, can effectively counteract. 

On December 6, 1840, the number of persons on the Commu- 
nion Roll was, of males, 132 ; of females, 355 ; total, 487. The 
Lord's Supper is dispensed twice a-year in this parish ; and the 
dispensation of it is attended by immense crowds of people from 
the neighbouring parishes. It is, indeed, a high solemnity. 

Manse. — In 1702, the manse was not habitable. In 1709, it 
was a heap of rubbish. In 1710, a house in the burgh was bought 
for a manse. In 1728, a manse was ordered to be built on the 
site of the original one, near the church-yard. The present manse, 
which stands in the glebe, a little to the west of the town, was 
erected in 1786. It is a plain but substantial building, and is 
capable, with some repairs, of being made a very comfortable re- 
sidence. The oflSce-houses, which are thatched, are ruinous. 
It is expected that they will speedily be rebuilt. 

Glebe. — The glebe consists of two parts ; the lower, of about 
9 acres, in which the manse stands, and the upper, a mile to the 
w;est, on the north side of the River of Wick, about 30 acres. 
In 1836, the glebe was valued by the Commissioners of Religious 
Instruction at L. 50 a-year. 

Stipend. — In 1792, the stipend was L.97, 13s. 4d. ; in 1810, 
it was L.50, and 160 bolls of victual. At present it consists of 
17 chalders, half oatmeal, half bear, payable at the fiar prices, 
and L. 1 of money. 

Teinds. — The teinds of this parish belong to the Crown. In 
1836, the value of the unappropriated teind was L. 340, 9s. 4d. 

Ministers of Wick since the Reformation. — Andro Philp, be- 
fore 1567 ; Thomas Keir, before 1576 ; Alexander Merns, 
Reader at Wick ; Thomas Pruntoch ; John Annand, before 
1636; 1638, David Allardice; 1638, John Smart, ejected in 
1650, and afterwards minister of Dunnet; 1659, William Ged- 
des, ejected in 1675; 1676, Patrick Clunis, died in 1691 ; 1692, 
William Geddes, restored; 1701, Charles Keith, died in 1705; 
1707, James Oliphant, died in 1726; 1727, James Ferme, died 
in 1760; 1762, James Scobie, died in 1764; 1765, William 
Sutherland, died in 1816; 1813, Robert Phin, died in 1840; 
J 840, Charles Thomson, the present incumbent. 

United Associate Seceders. — The congregation of these Dis- 
senters was established in 1 770. On the 21st of September 1836, 
according to their minister, the Rev. William Stewart, it amounted 



166 * CAITHNESS-SHIUE. 

to 1000, of whom 810 were resident within the parish of Wick 
quoad sacra. According to the Rev. Robert Phin, minister of 
Wick, their numbers within the parish amounted at that date to 
700. 

The chapel, which stands in Pulteneytown, was built in 1815, 
and a manse in 1825. There was, in 1836, a debt of L. 130 on 
the property. Allowing sixteen inches to the sitting, the chapel 
will contain 658 sitters. In 1836, the number of communicants 
was upwards of 200. The minister's stipend is L. 100 a-year, 
derived from seat-rents and collections, with a house add about 
half an acre of ground. 

Independents. — This congregation w.is established in 1790, in 
which year the chapel, which stands near Wick, was built. At six- 
teen inches each sitting, the chapel will hold 666 sitters. In 1838, 
there was a debt of L. 1 10 affecting the property. On the 21st of 
September 1836, the number of Independents resident in Wick 
quoad sacra was, according to the Rev. John Wiseman, then 
minister, at least 1000; according to the Rev. Robert Phin, 
minister of Wick, the number was 620. According to Mr Wise- 
man, the communicants were 129; according to. Mr Phin, tbey 
were about 100. 

Anabaptists. — The congregation was established in 1808. In 
1836, the parishioners in the habit of attending were about 90: 
the number of communicants was then 29. They have no minister. 

Separatists. — The congregation was established in 1824. In 
1836 their number amounted to 28; and the number of commu- 
nicants to 13. They have neither chapel nor minister. 

Papists. — The congregation was established in 1832. It does 
not exist but in the fishing-season. A chapel, capable of holding, 
at eighteen inches a sitting, 306 sitters, was built, in 1836, in Pul- 
teneytown. It is closed, and there is no priest, except during the 
fishing-season, — when a priest comes, the chapel is opened, and 
service is performed for those of the Romish persuasion, who, 
during that period, come to Wick from Ireland and the High- 
lands. 

Original Seceders. — The congregation was established in 1835. 
In 1836, from 60 to 80 persons were in the habit of attending 
worship. They have neither chapel nor minister. 

Reformed Presbyterians. — This congregation was established 
in 1836. The numbers in the parish amount to about 200; the 
communicants to 45. Their chapel in Pulteneytown was built 



WICK, 167 

in 1839. It is capable of holding, on the ground-floor, about 
380 sitters. The galleries are not yet erected. They have 
no minister. 

Wesleyan Methodists. — This congregation was established in 
1837. Their numbers are not great , 

Education, — It was a favourite maxim with the Scottish Reform- 
ers, that there should be throughout the land a kirk and a minister 
for every 1000 inhabitants, and a school beside every kirk. The 
nobles and gentry, however, voted this a pious imagination, pil- 
laged the church, expended the plunder on their own pleasures, 
and left the poor to perish for lack of knowledge. But the mi- 
nisters of the Scottish church were Christians. They were not to 
be daunted by the hostility both of the land-owners and of the go- 
vernment, and by their unceasing exertions and untiring perse- 
verance, schools as well as churches were gradually planted and 
endowed in all the parishes of Scotland. 

Caithness, however, was long behind the rest of the country. 
In 1567, only Wick and Thurso had ministers ; the rest of the 
parishes were supplied with readers or exhorters. In 1576, Dun- 
net, Halkirk, and Wick had each a minister and a reader. The 
other parishes appear to have been altogether vacant. The dis- 
turbances and distresses caused in the seventeenth century by the 
Episcopalian intruders and persecutors, threw the country back 
into the Popish darkness and disorder out of which it had been 
rapidly emerging. In 1697, when the Presbytery of Caithness 
was, after the Persecution, reconstituted by the Commission of the 
General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, only Thurso, Dun- 
net, and Reay had ministers of the Presbyterian Church. Most of 
the parishes were vacant, amongst which was Wick. In one or two, 
there were Episcopalian incumbents, a sample of the men who 
had been intruded in the times of Episcopacy, scandalous in their 
lives, and opposed, or at least indiflerent to the promotion of 
either the religion or education of the people. The people were, 
in consequence, ill-educated. In 1701, when a call by the parish 
of Wick was moderated in to Charles Keith, the second minister 
of this parish after the Persecution, it is stated by the records of 
the session, that the call " was unanimously subscrived by the heri- 
tors and elders present, and consented to by a greater number who 
could not subscrive." 

The Presbytery were incessant and unwearied in their endea- 
vours to remedy this enormous evil, by the planting of schools ; 



168 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

but their benevolent exertions were counteracted by the culpable 
opposition of the heritors. These Christian men, however, though 
discouraged, were not in despair. They persevered, and in 1706 
Wick and Thurso were legally provided with schools. In the 
course of the next twenty years, the legal accommodations bad 
been obtained for Canisbay, Dunnet, Wattin, and Bower. The 
remaining parishes were not provided for a long time afterwards ; 
and even so late as 177:2, Reay was without a statutory school. 
The Presbytery, while they continued to urge upon the heritors 
the fulfilment of their duty, did not rest satisfied with shuffling and 
idle excuses, but did what in them lay to secure for their people 
the blessings of education, by inviting into their parishes qualified 
teachers, and affording them every encouragement, by bestowing on 
them the oflSce and emoluments of session*clerk, and by constant- 
ly urging on the people the necessity of contributing to their sup- 
port : nor did they desist till they had procured from the heritors 
a legal salary and accommodation for all the schoolmasters within 
their bounds. In 1759, the parish school of Wick had an income 
of 20 bolls of meal. It has now the maximum endowment. 

But those enlightened and indefatigable Christians were not 
content with securing for each parish a statutory school ; in ex- 
tensive parishes, they planted charity schools. Several were es- 
tablished in the parish of Wick as early as 1728. In April 12th 
1763, there is presented to the kirk-session, a list of several heads 
of families in Ulbster, who, for the purpose of obtaining a school, 
oblige themselves to keep a certain number of scholars at it ; to 
pay regularly their quarterly fees, and what meal they bind them- 
selves for ; whereupon the session declare their willingness to give 
what assistance they can to a proper schoolmaster in that place, 
namely, L. 1, 5s. Sterling a-year, to make up for those scholars 
whose parents are unable to pay the quarterly fees. In 1792, five 
charity schools were in operation in the parish, but they have long 
ago been altogether discontinued. 

In 1765, the Rev. William Hallawall, who, for several years had 
been employed as an itinerant minister in Caithness, by the So- 
ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge, but had latterly been 
chaplain to the Charity Workhouse of Edinburgh, and overseer 
of the children's education for more than twenty years, having << a 
peculiar regard for the inhabitants of that large and populous pa- 
rish of Wick, where I spent," says he, " a good part of n\y time 
in my younger years, with great satisfaction,*' mortified, in the 



WICK. 169 

hands of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, cer- 
tain property, from which L.21 were annually to be paid for en- 
dowing, with L.7 a-year, a school at Keiss; another at Noss; 
and a third at Ulbster. The heritors are to build school-houses 
and uphold them, and the Presbytery of Caithness to judge of the 
qualifications of the teachers. These schools were directed to be 
called ^^ Hallawall's Schools,'' by which name, however, they do not 
seem ever to have been known in the parish. Each of the schools 
receives from Hallawall's mortification, L.7, 10s. annually, and 
the same sum from the Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
ledge, which makes up their endowment to L. 1 5. a-year. A fe- 
male teacher at Ulbster is allowed L.6 a-year by this society. 
She teaches girls to read and sew. 

Besides these schools, there is one at Thrumster and another 
at Stirkoke on the General Assembly's scheihe. The proprietors 
of these estates have built houses, and allow so much land as an 
endowment, and the General Assembly grants L.25 a-year. 

There are at present 18 unendowed schools in the parish, of 
which 14 are in the town, and 5 in the country. Of these, there 
are two kept by school-mistresses within the quoad sacra parish 
of Keiss, one at Reiss, and another at Janetstown, both of which 
are kept by schoolmasters. Between the school at Reiss, and the 
Society's school at Keiss, the Kirk-session divides, in equal sums, 
L.3 a year, arising from a small mortification. 

Of the 14 unendowed schools in the town, seven are in Wick 
and Louisburgh, and seven in Pulteneytown. Of the seven in Wick, 
one is kept by a master, and six by schoolmistresses. Of the seven 
in Pulteneytown, three are kept by schoolmistresses, and four by 
schoolmasters. 

Besides all these, there is in Pulteneytown the Academy, an ex- 
cellent building, raised at a cost of L.1700, by the British So^ 
ciety for Promoting the Fisheries, who likewise contribute to the 
support of the two teachers. 

The following statement shows the average attendance of chil- 
dren in 1840 : 



Endowed schools. 


Boys. 


Parish school, 


60 


Keiss, - - . 


49 


Noss or Stazigoe, 


45 


Ulbster. 


40 


Thrumster, 


36 


Stirkoke, 


46 


Academy, Pulteneytown, 


70 



Girls. 


Total. 


81 


91 


18 


67 


40 


85 


20 


60 


80 


116 


40 


86 


ao 


90 



Boys. 


Girls. 


Total. 


46 


15 


61 


16 


13 


29 


60 


12 


72 


164 


57 


. f£21 


15 


12 


27 


37 


38 


75 


30 


119 . 


149 



170 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

Unendowed schools kept by roasters. 

Rciss, ... 

Janetstown, 

One in Wick, 

Four in Pultencytown, 
Unendowed schools kept by mistresses. 

Broadhaven, 

Two in Keissy 

Six in Wick and Louisburgh, 

Total, 714 . 515 . 1229 

A Female School of Industry is supported at Stirkoke by Mrs 
Home of Scouthel, where sewing is taught in all its branches. 

The school at Reiss, on which is dependent a large and poor 
district, ought to be endowed ; and a school should be planted in 
the populous district of Hempriggs. 

It is impossible to state the fees in the various unendowed schools. 
It may be said, however, that, in general, they are very low. In 
the Society's schools, the fees for reading are Is. 6d. a quarter. 
In the parish school, the fees per quarter are, for reading, 2s. ; for 
reading and writing, Ss. ; for reading, writing, and arithmetict 4s. ; 
with addition of geography, 4s. 6d. ; and for all these with the 
classics, 6s. 

A great number of the children are very imperfectly educated. 
Many do not get to school above* a quarter or two. Poverty is 
partly the cause of this ; but it must be confessed, that there is not 
so deep a conviction of the benefits of education as §very Christ* 
ian must desire to see. 

Sabbath Schools. — Of these there are, connected with the 
Church of Scotland, one in Wick, attended by about 250 scholars, 
and one in Pulteneytown, attended by about 320; and in the 
country, one at Keiss, one at Staxigoe, one at Reiss, one at Stir- 
koke, one at Thrumster, and one at Ulbster, which are attended by 
about the same number of scholars by which the schools at each of 
these places are attended during the week. Sabbath schools are 
also kept by several of the Dissenting bodies. 

Literature. — At Wick there is a library, containing about 1620 
volumes. It was instituted in March 1826, and is the property of 
the subscribers. 

There are two reading-rooms, one at Pulteneytown, and the 
other at Wick; the former established in 1829, and the latter in 
1840. Each of them receives about four daily London, and about 
the same number of provincial newspapers. 

The John o' Groat Journal, published at Wick, commenced in 
February 1836, and has had a uniform weekly circulation, up to the 



WICK. 171 

present time, of 800 copies. About one-half of these is circulated 
throughout the four northern counties, and the other throughout 
Britain, and abroad. This Journal advocates what are usually 
called Liberal principles. 

The Northern Star, a fortnightly newspaper, commenced in 
November 1836, and was discontinued in May 1839. It advocat- 
ed what are usually called Conservative principles. 

About fifteen years ago, the parish was supplied by a flying-sta- 
tioner, who paid periodical visits to Wick. Now, there are two 
booksellers in the place, both of whom have a considerable busi- 
ness. 

Charitable and other Institutions. — The Caithness Agricultural 
Society, which was instituted about fifteen years ago, holds its an- 
nual meeting at Wick. This Society is respectably supported, 
and has been of the greatest advantage to those objects which are 
indicated by its name. 

There is at Wick a Chamber of Commerce, established about 
five years ago, which has conferred nnportant benefits on the 
trade of the place. . 

The Wick and Pulteneytown Total Abstinence Society was in- 
stituted in January 1840. It numbers about 700 members, and 
has been the means, it is reported, of reclaiming to sobriety several 
drunkards. 

Savinffs' Bank. — A savings' bank was opened at Wick in No- 
vember 1840. It is established for the benefit of Caithness, and 
is the only one in the whole coimty. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The earliest notice of the poor of 
this parish is in the sessional records, in which it is recorded that, 
on the 22d of September 1701, the poor of the parish were con- 
vened, when seven males and ten females received amongst them 
L.6, 7s. 6d. Scots. In 1752, L.95, 188. 6d. Scots were distri- 
buted to 34 males and 60 females. 

In 1820, there were on the permanent roll of paupers, 36 males 
and 96 females, in all 132, who received from the sessional funds 
L.62, 14s. : besides this sum, there was distributed in occasional 
relief, the farther sum of L.9, 14s., making in all the sum of 
L.72, 8s. Sterling, distributed to the parochial poor in 1820. 

In 1830, there were 41 males and 124 females, in all 165 per- 
sons, on the permanent roll. The sum distributed in permanent 
relief was L.74, 9s., and that in occasional, L.11, 6s., making to- 
gether the sum of L.85, 15s., distributed in 1830. 



172 CAITHNESS-SHIUK. 

In 1840, there were on the permanent roll, 21 males and 76 
females. Among them was distributed in permanent relief, 
L.32, ds. : the sum of L.21, Os. 84d. was distributed occasional* 
ly ; in all L.5d, Ss. d|d. 

But these statements by no means give a correct view of the 
extent of pauperism in this parish. Many are extremely poor. 
Public begging is common both in town and country. There has 
been put into the hands of the compiler of this report, a list drawn 
up by William Bruce, Esq. provost of Wick, of the poor who go 
round the shops and houses every Saturday <^ seeking their piece." 
It contains the names of 8 males and 53 females. At the request 
of the compiler, a committee, composed of the heritors, ministers, 
householders, and tenants, examined, in December 1840, into the 
state of pauperism within the parish, and reported that there were 
of persons utterly destitute, — 

In Wick, . . 6 men, 22 females. Total 28 

In Louisburgh, ; . 21 29 50 

In Pulteneytown ... 8 48 51 

In the landward part of Wick quoad sacra, 22 50 * 72 

In the parish of Keiss, . 5 22 27 

Total (besides children), 229 

There is no legal assessment for the poor in this parish. By £sir 
the largest portion of the funds available for their relief arise from 
collections at the church-door. The interest of L.300, which has 
been mortified for the poor, is applied to their relief; for which pur- 
pose, also, small donations are occasionally received. 

The poor are by no means clamant in seeking parochial relief. 
It is still considered as degrading ; and there are numerous in- 
stances of persons suffering great destitution, rather than make 
application for relief; and of individuals in but indigent cir- 
cumstances themselves, taking destitute persons, who have no 
claim upon them, into their houses, and supporting them without 
asking or receiving sessional assistance. But it must appear evi- 
dent, on consideration of the preceding particulars, that, unless the 
funds of the session are more plentifully supplied, this state of 
things will not continue much longer. These means of relief are, 
at present, altogether inadequate to meet even with the veriest pit- 
tance the numerous demands made upon them ; and symptoms are 
appearing, that necessity is more and more overcoming the laud- 
able reluctance of the destitute to make application for parochial 
relief. To bring on a legal assessment, it needs but the refusal 
of the benevolent shopkeepers of Wick to give any longer the 



WICK. 173 

weekly penny which immemorially they have spontaneously bestow- 
ed on each of the numerous poor who go round on the Saturdays 
to collect it. Let this be done, and they are threatening to do it^ 
and a compulsory poor-rate, with its innumerable train of econo* 
mic and moral evils, will come on the parish in half-a*yean All 
parties will then find out, but when too late, that it would have 
been their wisdom to have supported, with greater attention and 
liberality, the good old system of the Church of Scotland. No- 
thing can arrest the progress of a country such as this to pauper- 
ism, but evangelical churches, pastoral superintendence, and scrip- 
tural schools. But these in suflScient abundance would, under 
the blessing of God, which is sure to be conferred on the preach- 
ing* and teaching of the Truth as it is in Jesus, accomplish this. 

The kirk-sessiob is composed of the minister and six elders, of 
whom, one is above eighty years of age, and another is in bad 
health. The elders do what they can for the spiritual and eco- 
nomic good of the people ; but what are they among so many ? 

Police and Crime^ 8^c. — The Earls of Caithness enjoyed, from an 
early date, the heritable jurisdiction of Caithness and Sutherland* 
In 1503, James IV. erected Caithness into a separate sheriffdom, 
and appointed Wick as the place where the courts were to be held. 
From this arrangement Caithness was, anciently, sometimes deno- 
minated the county of Wick, or Wickshire. In 1674, the heri- 
table jurisdictions of Caithness were sold by the Earl to John 
Campbell of Glenorchy, who sold them in 1718, by auction, to 
John Sinclair of Ulbster for L.2000 Sterling. When the heritable 
jurisdictions were abolished in 1748, Ulbster claimed L.5000 as 
compensation for the sheriffship, L.3000 as Justiciary, and L.1000 
as Constable of Scrabster Castle and bailie of the Bishop's lands. 
The demand was considered extravagant, and he ultimately got 
only L.3000 for the whole. 

Justice in the hands of these heritable sheriffs, in general, failed 
through their weakness, or was perverted by their wickedness. 
But, during the seventeenth and the former part of the eighteenth 
centuries, the courts of the Church, with firmness and impartiality, 
grappled with this exceeding evil, and often accomplished what the 
. civil magistrates either could not, or, what is, perhaps, nearer the 
truth, would not attempt. In 1709, we find the presbytery of 
Caithness informing Queen Anne, that, in consequence of its dis- 
tance from the seat of government, ^^ this county has for a long 
time been a stage on which many atrocious villainies have been 



174 CAITHNFSS-SHIUE. 

acted; particularly, many barbarous and inhuman murders and 
assassinations of persons of innocence and integrity." Tbe kirk- 
session of Wick was vigilant and energetic in repressing wicked- 
ness of all kinds. Amongst its elders were generally several ma- 
gistrates, and it exercised a mixture of civil and ecclesiastical 
authority. On August 31, 1701, ^^ the session taking into their 
consideration that there are a great many abuses committed, in and 
about the town of Wick, on the Sabbath day, did and hereby do, 
for the preventing of which, appoint and ordain that two elders 
do search the town in time of Divine service and after the same, 
and make report of irregular persons to the session." Similar 
appointments are often recorded ; and the most unremitting vigi- 
lance was exercised. In September 1701, two women are charged 
" for gathering pease in time of sermon ;" a man for " beating 
his wife ;" and, John Naughty ^^ for entertaining persons drink- 
ing in time of sermon." The session direct the town of Wick 
^^ to put up ane cock-stool." ^^ Alexander Larnoch and his m(e 
are appointed to stand publicly, and to pay 20 shillings Scots for 
the crime of cursing;" and unto John Johnston the session '^ offer 
the alternative either to find surety to pay 8 punds, or otherwise 
to be liable to corporal punishment." The latter, " afterwards pro- 
duced John Sinclair, joiner, who hereby enacts himself cautioner 
•that he shall pay 8 punds at three terms, namely, 4 merks at Can- 
delmas; 4 merks a4 Whitsunday; and 4 merks at Lammas 1702. 
May 25th, 1702, Donald M'Curchie, shoemaker in Wick, who 
had been guilty both of gross and of contumelious conduct, was 
ordained by the session ^^ to be carried from the kirk of Wick 
to the cross, with a paper-hood bearing the inscription of his 
crime, and to sit there two hours in the stocks with the hood on 
his head, and thereafter" to give security that he shall pay his 
mulct, and submit to the customary discipline of the church. The 
pernicious and most reprehensible practice of levying " mulcts" 
upon delinquents, by sessional authority, continued till of late 
years. The people came to regard these fines as just the price of 
sin ; and this feeling is not even yet altogether extinct. 

Wick is the county town. The sheriff and other customary 
courts are held here. The sheriff-court was held at Thurso for 
a long period previously to 1828; but in that year,* Wick, after a 
protracted litigation, obtained a decision of the Court of Session, 
declaring Wick to be the head-burgh of the shire of Caithness, 
and ordaining that the stated sheriff-courts must be held and the 

s 



WICK. 



175 



Sheriff-clerk's office kept there. There is a county but not a 
burgbal police. 

Crime. — During the year from September 1st 1827 to Sep- 
tember )st 1828, there were confined within the jail of Wick, 36 
male and 8 female culprits ; and during the same period, ending 
September 1st 1829, there were 21 males and 4 females. 

In the course of the four years subsequent to August 1880, the 
number of cases of crime within the county brought to trial, was 
62, of which 55 were tried before the Sheriff, and 7 before the 
circuit-court at Inverness. This was little more than 15 for each 
year, or in the proportion of 1 f^r every 2297 of the population ; 
while for all Scotland the proportion was 1 in 1130. The crimes 
were, of 

Theft, 

Assault and breach of the peace. 

Malicious mischief, . 

Deforcement of officers of law, 

Child-exposure, . • 

Concealment of pregnancyy . 

Forgery, 

Defaming of judges. 

Reckless riding and injury, 



16 

81 

5 

4 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 



62 

Of the whole number, 30 were committed within the parish of 
Wick ; 1) in Thurso; 7 in Latherun ; 5 in Halkirk ; 3 in Reay ; 
2 in Dunnet ; 2 in Bower ; 1 in Olrick ; and 1 in Wattin. In 
several of the cases a number of persons were concerned. 

Prisons, — In 1840, there were committed to Wick jail, 29 men 
and 2 women. The following table will point out a variety of parti- 
culars ; such as the profession, age, and crime of the culprits. It 
will also show, that the season of the herring-fishery is most pro- 
ductive of crime, and that of a particular kind. 



Date of Commit. 
1840. 

Jan. 7, 
June 2, 
July 21, 
July 21, 
Aug. 1, 
Aug. 3, 
Aug. 8, 
Aug. 10, 
Aug. 10, 
Aug. 10, 
Aug. 16, 
Aug. 16, 
Aug. 16, 
Aug. 18, 
Aug. 20, 



ale. Female. 


1 





- 1 












Occupation. 
Labourer, 

Fisher, 
Miller, 
Fisher, 

Seaman, 

Mason, 

Farmer, 

Do. 
Sawyer, 
Seamen, 

Do. 

Do. 
Servant, 



Age. 



Crime. 



45 - Theft, 

34 - Assault. 
25 . Do. 
21 - Do. 

25 - Breach of peace. 

60 - Exposing a child. 

23 . Theft. 

35 - Assault. 
55 - Do. 
71 - Do. 
31 - Do. 
28 • Rioting. 
20 - Do. 
48 - Assault. 

18 - Desert, service. 



176 



CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 



Date of Commit. 
1840. 
Aug. 22, 
Aug. 24, 
Aug. 24, 
Sept. 5, 
Sept. 24, 
Sept. 24, 

Oct. la, 

Oct. 13, 
Oct. IS, 
Sov. 18, 
Nov. 27, 
Nov. 27, 
Nov. 27, 
Dec. 1, 
Dec. I, 



ale. 




Female. 




Occupation. 




Age. 




• 





• 


Fisher, 




23 




. 





. 


Packman, 




27 




. 





» 


Do. 




25 




^ 





• 


Fbher, 




30 




• 





• 


Labourer, 




17 




„ 





• 


Do. 




18 




„ 





• 


Servant, 




16 




• 





• 


Tinker, 




31 




. 





• 


Do. 




20 




• 





• 


Carter, 




-1» 




» 





* 


'Joiner, 




22 




« 





. 


Farmer, 




20 




„ 





. 


Joiner, 




21 




. 





. 


Fisher, 




21 




s 





. 


Do. 




17 




.• 







Do. 




46 



Crime. 

Rioting. 
Asnult. 

Do. 
Rioting. 
Assault. 

Do. 
Theft. 
Do. 
Do. 
Utter, base coin. 
Poaching. 

Do. 

Do. 
Rioting. 

Do. 
Poaching. 



Dec 11, 

It must not be supposed that all these culprits were from the 
parish of Wick. The jail is not for the parish of Wick, but for 
the whole county of Caithness. 

The jail was built in 18*28, at an expense of L. 1200, the greater 
part of which was defrayed by the burgh. It is sufficient for the 
county. Attention is paid to the health of the prisoners. It is 
governed according to act of Parliament. The Rev. David Mit« 
chell, Missionary in Pulteneytown, has been appointed chaplain, 
with a salary of L. 20 a-year. 

Fairs. — The following fairs are held within this parish ; Skitten 
Market, at Kilminister, on the first Tuesday of March ; Wick 
Market, on the first Tuesday after Palm Sunday ; Fair of Wick 
in June. All these are for cattle. Margaretmas, at Hill of 
Wick, on the Tuesday after the 20th of July, for cattle, and the 
hiring of persons for the harvest ; and Fergusmas,* at Wick, in 
the end of November, for cattle. 

Inns and Public- Houses* — Of these there are in Wick and Louis- 
burgh, 22; Pulteneytown, 23; the landward part of the parishj 
9 ; total, 54. 

Instead of this appalling number, every person acquainted with 
the circumstances of the parish must admit, that a dozen were 
more than enough for all the necessities of the district. An ex- 
cess of public-houses is one of the most frightful curses which can 
befall a community. Their effect upon the morals and comfort 

* The frequent use of the termination via$, in the names of fairs and term days in 
Caithness, shews the deep hold which Popery had taken of the district. Besidis 
Margaretmas and Fergusmas, mentioned above, there are in the county Colmsmas, 
the term on the 20th of June ; Petermas, !29th June, O. S. ; Georgemas, 15th July, 
O. S. ; Marymas, 15th August, O. S. ; Lukesmas, first Tuesday of October, O. S. ; 
Mansmas, or Magnusmas, first Tuesday of December, O. S. ; Tu&timas, fourth Tues- 
day of November, O. S. ; and a number more masses. 



wrcK. 177 

of the people is most disastrous. Multitudes can trace their ruin 
in body, soul, and outward estate, to such seminaries of Satan and 
Belial, as the lower public-houses generally are. Those to whom 
it belongs to license such places in the parish of Wick have in- 
curred an awful* responsibility. 

FueL'^'The fuel made use of in this parish, is peats and coals. 
The latter are brought from the Wear and Tyne, and cost about 
18s. a ton. Peats, which form the greater part of the fuel con- 
sumed by the commonalty, are dug in the mosses of the parish, 
and sold in the town for 2s. a cart 



The compiler of this report must apologise for its manifold 
imperfections. He became a resident in the parish, to which 
be was previously an utter stranger, only on the !24th of Octo- 
ber last. He was requested in December to draw up the re- 
port, which he would not have attempted could another person 
have been found to undertake it. In the midst of the numerous 
vocations and avocations of a most burdensome charge, he has 
had to search about for information, and arrange and put it to- 
gether at short intervals of ministerial labour. To those who have 
furnished him with materials he desires to tender his grateful ac- 
knowledgements, and more especially to the Right Honourable 
Lord Duffus, and to John Henderson, Esq. Pulteneytown, W. S. 
From the former he received a great deal of curious and import- 
ant information respecting the mineralogy, sea-coasts, antiquities, 
and progressive agricultural changes of the parish ; and to the 
latter he stands indebted for the free use of extensive and most ac- 
curate collections made by his learned and godly brother, the late 
Dr Patrick Brodie Henderson, illustrative of the history and sta- 
tistics of Caithness. These valuable collections ought either to 
be published, or lodged in some public library. 

March 1841. 

Addenda. — About the middle of the tenth century, Arnfin, Ha- 
vard, Liot, Sculy, and Lodvir, sons of Thorfin Earl of Orkney, 
contended on the decease of their father for the sovereignty. Arn- 
fin was assassinated by the contrivance of Regnhilda, his wife, who 

CAITHNESS. M 



178 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 

married Havard, of whom she likewise speedily procured the mur- 
der, that she might marry Liot, the third brother, of whom she had 
become enamoured. Sculy determined to dispute his brother^s 
authority. To secure success, he made application to Malcolm L 
King of Scotland, who readily agreed to give him assistance, 
hoping by means of him to wrest the northern counties from the 
sovereignty of Norway. He created Sculy Earl of Caithness, 
which was declared a part of the kingdom of Scotland, and sup- 
plied him with ships and troops. 

Liot was in Orkney when his brother reached the coast of 
Caithness, and his absence enabled Sculy to overrun the country. 
He next attacked the islands, but was repulsed, and many of his 
followers slain. He immediately withdrew to Caithness, whi- 
ther he was followed by Liot. Meantime Sculy secured the aid 
of Magbrag, chieftain of Sutherland, and the confederates were 
encamped in an advantageous position in the Bogs of Skitten, (/la- 
ludibus Skidtnsibusy) a name by which the Moss of Kilminster was 
anciently called.* Liot advanced against them, and was assaulted 
with vigour. His men stood firm ; and their enemies, after a vain 
attempt to break his line, were seized with a sudden panic and fled. 
The rout soon became complete, and Sculy was slain in attempt- 
ing to rally the fugitives. Liot having been wounded in the pur- 
suit, died soon after. From him the clan Macleod are said to be 
descended. Lodvir, the last of these ill-fated brothers, succeeded 
to the vacant earldom of Orkney. 

Marl, — The following is the result of an analysis of the marl 
in the Loch of Brickigoe, on the estate of Mr Innes of Thrum- 
ster, by Mr Kemp, Teacher of Practical Chemistry under the Pro- 
fessor of Chemistry in the University of Edinburgh. 

Pure carbonate of lime, 75 per cent. 

Alumina, ... 6 

Silica, . . .5 

Organic vegetable matter, 12 

100 



• The fair held on this moss is to this day called Skitten market. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE COUNTY OF CAITHNESS, ♦ 



Caithness is the most northern county on the mainland of 
Scotland. It is divided from the county of Sutherland by a range 
of mountains and moory hills, extending from the Ord of Caith- 
ness to the North Sea, and is bounded otherwise by the sea ; the 
Pentland Frith dividing it from the Isles of Orkney. It extends 
from north to south about 40 miles, and from east to west about 
SO miles. Its area is 618 square miles, or 895,680 acres, of 
which about 1 00,000 are cultivated and in pasture, and the rest 
are uncultivated moor and hills. The valued rent is L. 39,256 
Scots, and the real value of the land may now be L. 35,000 Ster- 
ling. The population in 1831 was 36,529. The Parliamentary 
constituency in 1840 was 487. 

Topography. — The general appearance of the county is flat and 
uninteresting ; the only hills of any eminence forming the boun- 
dary with Sutherland. A great proportion of the ground consist- 
ing of fiat moor and heath, and there being no extent of trees, the 
interior has a dreary appearance. Along the sea coast, which is 
generally bold and rocky, the appearance improves; and, from 
the improvements now going on in various quarters, a more cheer- 
ful and pleasant aspect is given to it, especially along the high 
road from the south towards Thurso. There are a few sheets 
of water, but none of any extent or peculiar beauty of appearance, 
and there are no navigable rivers. 

Geology. — There is no coal formation so far as known. Sand- 
stone of good quality prevails in some places; but the general 
formation is a black, bituminous, slaty sandstone. Mr Traill of 

* Drawn up by William Sutherland, Esq-i W. S. 



180 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

Ratter has an extensive and pro6table quarry of flagstones for 
pavement, &c. which he works ; and there are one or two others 
in the county. The stones are principally shipped for London and 
Newcastle. 

Agriculture.^-TYie science of agriculture and husbandry, in all 
its branches, has made much progress of late years. The late 
Sir John Sinclair, who was a native of the county, and held- large 
estates therein, gave a considerable impetus to the spirit of im- 
provement ; but it has only been within the last twenty years, that» 
through the efforts mainly of Mr Traill of Ratter, Mr Home of 
Scouthel, and one or two other gentlemen, these improvements 
have taken the practical shape they have done. The soil of the 
county^ where cultivated, is generally a strong clay mixed with 
earth, producing green crops of all kinds, of the best quality and 
luxuriance. Farms are now to be seen of as great extent, and 
cultivated with equal skill and success, as in any part of Scotland. 
A great number of cattle of the best description are annually 
reared and sold in the south ; and it was found at a late show of 
the Highland Society at Inverness, that a great proportion of the 
prizes were carried off by competitors from Caithness. A large 
number of sheep is also kept ; and one gentleman from Caith- 
ness, Mr Paterson of Borlum, it is believed, annually obtains, at 
the Falkirk Tryst, the highest prices given for sheep and lambs. 
A considerable part of this county is, of course, still in the posses- 
sion of small farmers, paying from L. 10 to L. 50 of yearly rent ; but 
their condition is improving, and many of them raise green crops, 
and pursue a system of rotation. Along the sea coast, the fishermen 
generally hold small farms, which they cultivate when at honte. 
These, of course, are not in the best order ; but it does not seem 
possible, while the fisheries continue, to alter this system. Marl 
is found in considerable abundance, and of good quality ; and the 
refuse of the herrings, when properly amalgamated with some 
other substances, is much and advantageously used in bringing the 
waste lands into a proper system for cropping. 

Manufactures. — There are few manufactures in the county. 
Two or three rope-works ; some straw plaiting ; and a few distil- 
leries. 

Fisheries, — The herring-fishing has been for a number of years 
the principal trade and business of the county. The herrings are 
got all around the coast ; but Wick and the surrounding fishing 
villages are the principal places of resort. The fishing commences 



ON THE COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. 181 

early in July, and continues nearly two months. There is con- 
siderable uncertainty as to the quantity, and of course risk, — so that 
the profits are frequently small to the curer, and often a loss is 
sustained. The fishermen are paid a price of so much per cran, 
which is generally fixed at the commencement of the season ; and, 
if the quantity got be tolerably large, he is sure of a fair remune- 
ration. In consequence of this, he pays a high rent for his house 
and land, and his condition generally is improved. The quantity 
caught and the number of people employed, vary each year con- 
siderably. On an average, it may be stated that the quantity 
caught, during the season, may be from 100,000 to 120,000 barrels 
or crans, and the number of people partially or wholly employed, 
including fishermen, coopers, packers, &c. about 12,000. The 
fishermen are paid from 9s. to lOs. per cran ; and the barrel when 
cured is worth about 21s. The number of boats employed may 
be about 1000, of which 700 are owned in the county, and the 
rest come from the Frith of Forth and various places in the Mur- 
ray Frith. Each boat ig manned by five men. These state- 
ments will show the immense importance of this fishery to the 
county, and that it is of considerable value in a national point 
of view. The salmon-fisheries in the rivers of Thurso, Berriedale, 
and one or two others, are also of some value. 

Gaelic is spoken only in the higher parts of the county ; in 
the other parts, the inhabitants, comprising three-fourths of the 
population, speak the ordinary language of the country, and their 
manners and habits are those of the lowland Scots. There has 
been during the last twenty years, considerable improvement in the 
manners^and social habits of the inhabitants : upon the whole, less 
inebriety — riots and fighting at fairs have almost ceased — and the 
standard of comfort has been raised amongst all classes. Edu- 
cation is advancing ; but it is to be regretted that its importance 
is not sufficiently appreciated by the mass of the people. The 
means of communication with the south by steam are every year 
improving. In the county itself, the roads are both good and nu- 
merous. 



182 



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a 
a 

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 






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ir-iiilill'S 



ON THE COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. 



183 



Table II. — Shewing Extent, &c. of Parishes in the County of 

Caithness. 



• 




Acres cul- 




Do. sup- 






Acres in 


tivated or 


Acres un- 


pos. cap. 


Acres 


Parishes. 


parish. 


occasion. 


cultivated 


of cidtiv. 


under 






in tillage. 




with prof. 


wood. 


Thurso, . 


22000 


12000 


10000 


7000 


40 


Reay, . 
Canishay, 


_ 


.^ 


... 


«^ 


... 


— 


9200 


28800 


— . 


... 


Dunnet, . 


17000 


5000 


12000 


m^ 


m^ 


Watten, . 


38400 


5500 


33400 


5000 


.. 


Olrick, . 


10000 


6000 


4000 


8400 


^ 


Halkirk, . 


78600 


6000 


67000 


_ 


m^ 


Latheron, 


140000 


9000 


131000 


^^ 


720 


Bower, . 


_ 


_ 


_ 


.» 


... 


Wick, . 













N. B— The acres uncultivated include those capable of cultivation and thoae 
under wood. 
i2toy....SG0tch acres here stated. 



- PRINTED BY JOHN STARK, 
OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDIKBURGH. 



INDEX. 



Achardale, clachan of, 74 

Achargill bay, ] Id— castle, 141 

Agricultiire and rural economy, 6, 18, 
28, 42, 53, 63, 76, 97, 145 

Agriculture, andent state of, in Wick, 
145 

Agricultural society of Caithness, 171 

Animal remains, various, found in the 
peat, 52 

Antiquities, 4, 17, 25, 39, 52, 61, 70, 91 

Arch, natural, at Borrowston, 13 

Auld Wick Castle, ruins of, 118, 139 

Banniskirk, Chapel of, 73 

Barrogill castle, 77 

Benfrectan, ancient fort on, 17 

Berriedale chapel, 91 — head, 85 — water, 
88 

Bighouse bay, 14 

Bilbster bum, 123 

Birkle hills, ruins of, 138 

Bishop of Caithness, murder of the, 
72 

Boars of Duncansbay, the, 23 

Borrowston, caves at, 13 

Botany, 38, 127 

Bower, parish of, 114 

Brabster house, 27 

Brawl castle, ruhis of, 70 

Broadhaven, village of, 157 

Bruan, mission of, 162 

Bucholie castle, ruins of, 25 

Cailm loch, 15 

Caithness, general observations on, 179 
— agriculture, 180 — ecclesiastical sta- 
tistics, 182— -fisheries, 180 — manufac- 
tures, 180 

Calder loch, 69 

Canisbay, parish of, 21 — house, 27 

Castles, ruins of various, in Latheron, 
91 

Castlehill bay, 60— harbour, 61 

Castleton, village of, 62 

Cattle, see Live-stock 

Caves at Borrowston^ 13 — in Ben Rhad, 
14 

Chapels, nuns of various, 69 

Character, habits, and language of the 
l^opulation, 5, 18, 28, 41, 53, 75, 93, 
143 

Cholera, appearance of, in Wick, 122 

CAITHNESS. 



Christianity, introduction of, among the 

Picts, 159 
Clett rock, the, 2 
Climate, see Meteorology 
Clyth, pier at, 105 
Clytbness, 86 
Columba, conversion of the Pictish king 

by, 159 
Copper, veins of, 126 
Churches, see Ecclesiastical Statistics 
Crime, statistics of, in Wick, 175 
Culdees, churches planted by the, 159 
Currents of the Pentland Frith, the, 23 
Danes, defeat of the, at Murkle, 62— 

last invasion and defeat of the, 89 
Dirlot castle, ruins of, 72 
Diseases, prevalent, in Wick. 121 
Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 9, 

32, 66, 165 
Dunbcath water, 97 
JDuncaiisbay, 22 — Bours of, 23 — head, 

22— stacks of, 22 
Dunnet bay, 37 — head, 34 — lighthouse, 

40 — parish of, 34 
Duns, remains of, in Halladale, 17 
Durrcen lake, 61 
Ecclesiastical statistics, 9, 20, 31, 46, 

57,66, 78, 106, 116, 159 
Education, statistics of, 10, 20, 32, 46, 

58,66,80, 109, 116, 166 
Elsher's cairn, and tradition relating to, 

138 
Fairs and markets, 12, 21, 33, 47, 58, 

67, 113, 176 
Fisheries, herring, 7, 19, 30, 100, 151— 

salmon, 7, 37, 104 
Forss or Forssy water, the, 2, 15, 60 
Fort, ancient, on Benfrectan, 1 7 
Fossil remains, various, found in NN'ii'k, 

125 
Freestone^ see Quarries 
Fresgo head, 14 
Fres\iick bay, 22 — burn and spring, 23 

— house, 27 
Fuel, 12, 21, 33, 47, 59, 67, 82, 113 
Geology and mineralogy, 2, 15, 24, 36, 

50, 86, 124 
Ocrston, clachan of, 74 
Giirs bay, 22 
Gimigoe castle, ruins of, 118, 139 



186 



CAITHNESS-SHIRE. 



GoeSi various, in Wick, 118 

Gun, the clan, origin of, 192 

HabitA, &c. see Character 

Halkirk, parish of, 68~river, 69 

Halladalc water, 15 

Harbours, various, in Latheron, 105 — 

in Wick, 158 
Harold's tower, 4 
Hauster Burn, the, 123 
Hayland loch, the, 36 
HelHhettcr, mineral spring of, 14 
Hemprigg's house, 142 — loch, 123 — 

stacks of, 118— vilkge, 118 
Herring, see Fisheries 
Holbuni head, 1 

HuMbandry systems of, 6, 29, 64, 98 
Improvements, agricultural, in Dunnet, 

44 — extensive, in Watten, 55 
Innes, Mr, bequest by, 33 
Inns and alcliouses, 12, 21, 33, 59, 67, 

82, 119, 176 
Inroad of the Rebels during 1745, 3 
Inscri])tion in Dunnet church-yard, 38 
John o'Oroafs House, site of, 26 
KoisB, bay of, 1 17, 1 19— castle, ruins of, 

\4\ --quoad sacra parish of, 163 
Kelp manufactory, decrease of, 45 
Kilminstcr bum and loch, 123 — moss, 

battle of, 115 
Kirk o' Moss, ruins of, 159 
Language, see Character 
Lungwell water, 38 

Latheron, parish of, 83 — improvements 
in, 100^— ministers of, from 1637,113 
Libraries and literature, 39, 66, 170 
Lighthouse on Dunnethead, 30 
Limestone, see Quarries 
Linglass castles, ruins of, 138 
Liotus and Scullius, contest between, 

for Earldom of Caithness, 115 
Live-stock, breeds of, 6, 19, 29, 43, 55, 

64, 98, 149 
Lochs, various, in Reay, 15 
Lochdhu, 123 
Lochmore, 69 
Longevity, instances of, in Latheron, 86 

—in Wick, 122 
Louisburg, village of, 156 
Lybster chapel, 91 — harbour, 105 — 
ruins of chapel at, 17 — village of, 104 
Mackay Rev. David, 16 
Manganese, ores of, 6, 15 
Manufactures, straw-plait, leather, &c. 

7 — various in Wick, 154 
Margaret of Scotland, shipwreck and 

burial-place of, 141 
Master of Caithness, murder of, by his 

father, 134 
Meteorological tables, kept at Wick, 120 
Meteorology and climate, 2, 14, 23, 35, 
49,85, 119 



May, loch of, 24 
Mineralogy, see Geology 
Ministera of Latheron from 1637, 118 
— of Wick from the RefonnatioD» 165 
Moray Frith, the, 122 
Morrison, Rev. Dr, 24 
Morven mountain, 84 
Murkle Bay, 60— or Morthill, batde of» 

62 
New Reay, village of, 20 
Newton bum, 123 
Norwegians, conquest of the Orkneys 

and northern counties by, 131 
Noss head, 118— cavern under, I IB- 
loch, 123 
Nunnery, remains of, at Closten, 61 
Olrick, parish of, 59 
Ord of Caithness, the, 84 
Oswald of Glasgow, birth-place of, 4— 
Mr, bequest by, for poor of Canis- 
bay, 33 
Pap of Caithness, the, 84 
Parish registers of Canisbay, extracts 

from, 26 
Pauperism, see Poor. 
Pavement quarries at tastlehill, &c. 60 
Pentland Frith, the, 23— currents in, 
23, 55 — Skerries and lighthouse, 23 
Pictish remains in Dunnet, 39— in Wat- 
ten, 52--in Wick, 137 
Pict«(, their origin and settlement in 

Scotland, 131 
Plantations and planting, 54, 63, 97, 

128 
Poor, management of the, 11, 20, 38, 

47,58,67,81, 112, 116, 171 
Population returns, 5, 18, 27, 40, 53, 

62,74,92, 116, 143 
Prelacy, first introduction of, in 909, 

160 
Prison of Thurso, the, 11 —of Wick, 

and committals thereto, 175 
Proudfoot head, 119 
Pulteneytown, village of, 156 
Quarries, freestone, 7, 16, 19,45 — lime- 
stone, 15, 77— pavement, 60, 77 

slate, 7 
Reay, parish of, 12 — village of, 20 
Reiss or Keiss bay, 119 
Reformation, its slow progress in Caith- 
ness, 160 
Rent of land, rates of, 6, 18, 28, 43, 54, 

63, 97, 148 
Roads, bridges, &c. 8, 31, 78, 157 
Rosebank house, 142 
St Coomb's kirk, site of, 61 
St John's loch, 36 
St Magnus's chapel, ruins of, 73 
St Thomas's chapel, ruins of, 73 
Salmon fisheries^ see Salmon 
Sands, shifting of the, 36 



INDEX. 



187 



Sandside bay, 14 — harbour, 20 

Sarclct loch, 124— village, 157 

Savings bank of Wick, 171 

Scaraben mountain, 84 

Schools, see Education 

Scrabster roads, 9 

Seal catching in the caves of Latberon, 

85 
Sbebster, ruins of chapel and stone 

coffins found at, 1 7 
Sheep, see Live-stock. — the original 

Caithness breed of, 87 
Shipping belonging to Thurso, 7 — to 

Wick, 155 
Sinclair castle, ruins of, 1 18, 141 
Sinclair, Sir John, 3, 89 — William, 
bequest by, for poor of Canisbay, 33 
Societies, friendly, 11, 47, 58, 66, 81, 
112 — religious and charitable, 12, 171 
Spittal hill, 68 
Springs, mineral, at Helshetter, 14r— 

chalybeate in Wick, 124 
Stacks of Duncansbay, the, 22 
Stanstill burn, the, 123 
Stasdgoo, village of, 157 
Stirkoke house, 142— strath of, 119 
Storehouses, ancient, at Stazigoe, 157 
Strathalladale, 12 
Straw-plait, manufactory of, 7 
Stroma, island of, 22 
Superstitions, remaining in Wick, 161 
Syster loch, 36 
Thrumster house, 142 
Thurso, parish of, 1 — bay, 1 — town, 7 



— its ancient importance, S-*harbour, 

9— vessels belonging to, 7— water, 

2,69 
Tides and currents of the Pentland 

Frith, 35 
Tobair Acraig, spring pf, 70 
Toft Ferry house, ruins of, 138 
Toftingall lake, 50 
Town, remains of, submerged by the 

sands, 13 
Traill of Ratter, extensive Improvements 

by, 65 
Tumuli, ancient, in Dunnet, 39 
Ulbster head, 119 

Wages, rates of, 6,19, 28» 43, 54, 63, 97 
Ward hill, the, 22 

Watch-towers, remains of ancient, 25, 61 
Watten loch, 50, 123— pariah of, 49— 

improvements in, 55 
Weather, prognostics of the, 14 
Wester loch and water, 123 
Wick, parish of, 117— origin of the 

name, 1 1 7 — history of, 130---ministen 

of, from the Reformation, 165— head 

of, 1 18— river of, 123 
Wick, town of, 155 — its popuktion, 
157- harbour, 158— church, 161 — 

manufactures, 154 — prison, 175 — 

shipping, 155 
Winless loch, 123 
Woods, see Plantations 
Yarrows, loch of, 123 
Zoology, 2, 16, 24, 37, 88, 129 



PR1»'TED BY JOHN STARK, 
OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDIKBUROR. 



ORKNEY. 



CONTENTS. 



BIRSAY AND IIARRAY, . . PAGE 148 

CROSS AND BURNE8S, . . .85 

EYIE AND KENDALL, . 196 

FIRTH AND STENNE8S, . .'67 

HOLME AND PAPLAY* . « 204 

HOY AND GRAEUSAY, . > .40 

KIRKWALL, .... 1 
LADY, ..... 133 

ORPHIR, .... 13 

RONALDSHAY AND HURRAY, . .191 

ROUSAY AND EAOLESHAY, 83 

SANDWICK, . .41 

SHAPINSHAY, ... 79 

ST ANDREWS, . . . * . 169 

STROUNESS, .... 26 

STRONSAY AND EDAY, . 156 

WALLS AND FLOTTA, ... 70 

WESTRAY, . . .114 



^ 






1.- 

f 






i 



PARISH OF KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. 

PRE8BYTKRY OF KIRKWALL, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. WILLIAM LOGIE,) ^.vj^QT^ppQ ^ 
THE REV. PETER PETRIE, | ^v^*J>'^2>AmiJ5. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Namcj Boundaries^ Sfc. — The royal burgh of Kirkwall is situat- 
ed in latitude 58° 59' N., and longitude d'' 23' W., and is sur- 
rounded by a landward district called St Ola, which forms nearly 
a square, intersected by several bays, the side of the square mea- 
suring about 5 miles. Buchanan considers the name of the town 
as a corruption of Cracoviaca or Kirkvaa, the ancient Danish name; 
but it is more probably derived from the extensive walls of the 
principal and. most ancient building, the kirk or cathedral of St 
Magnus, to be afterwards noticed. The name of the parish is bor- 
rowed from Olaus or Olave, the first Christian king of Norway, to 
which country the Orkney Islands anciently belonged. The town 
consists principally of one street, in many parts very narrow, run- 
ning the whole length ; parallel to which, however, a new street, 
called King Street, has been commenced within the last twenty 
years, and contains several neat and commodious houses. 

The principal bays in the parish are those of Kirkwall, Inganess, 
and Scapa ; the two former affording safe and capacious anchorage 
for ships of the largest size, and the latter being the common place 
of landing for boats and small craft, from Caithness and the islands 
south of Kirkwall. 

The surface of the parish is, on the whole, not very elevated, 
the only considerable hill being that of Wideford, rising about 
500 feet above the level of the sea, and covered with heath, 
the soil being chiefly mossy. Towards Gait-nip on the east 
side of Scapa bay, are the highest crags, and in them there are 
several excavations formed by the action of the sea, one running 
in the form of a narrow winding passage, upwards of 100 yards 

* Drawn up by the Rev. William I^ogie. 
ORKNEY. A 



2 OllKNEV. 

from the sea edge, being in height apparently from 12 to 20 feet, 
and adorned with beautiful stalactites of lime. 

Hydrography. — In the parish, are several ponds, rivulets, and 
springs of excellent water ; and about two miles south of the town 
there is a pretty strong chalybeate spring, called Blakel/s well, to 
which invalids formerly resorted. 

Geology. — The prevailing rock is argillaceous schistus, frequent- 
ly alternating with a coarse sandstone, in some instances of a white 
and in others of a red colour, sometimes containing veins of limestone 
with iron pyrites* The clay-slate is frequently traversed by small 
veins of lime, and occasionally by heavy spar, containing small crys- 
tals of galena. Itisalso often found highly impregnated with bitumi- 
nous matter, which gives it a black colour, and when recently brok- 
en, a tarry smell. The subsoil is, for the most part, a very reten- 
tive clay, as might be inferred from the great prevalence of clayey 
strata. There are considerable extents of peat moss. The soil 
in the arable grounds is chiefly a good black loam, with either a 
clay or gravelly bottom. 

Botany. — The botany of the parish presents nothing rare or pe- 
culiar. Gardening is, for the climate, practised pretty successfully. 
Besides currants, gooseberries, and strawberries, which attain agood 
size and ripen well, apples, pears, and cherries thrive well ; and 
in one garden, grapes are produced by tho aid of artificial heat. 
Forest trees, except under shelter, do not succeed, partly, no doubt, 
owing to the sea air, but probably more to the strength of the tree 
being spent in repeated germinations during the winter, arising 
from the prevalence of open weather alternating with slight frosts. 

Zoology. — Of animals the parish contains no rare species. Rabbits 
are not numerous, and till about twelve years ago, there were no hares, 
but a few pairs having been then introduced, they have rapidly multi- 
plied, to the no small annoyance and damage of the farmers. The 
commons abound with plovers, grouse, snipe, and other species of 
game. Sea birds in great variety frequent the rocks and bays of 
the parish. Of the domestic animals, the cows and horses are ge- 
nerally rather small in size, but considerably larger than those of 
the Shetland Isles. Sheep, pigs, geese, ducks, turkeys, and fowls, 
are reared in considerable numbers, and many are exported, as well 
as horses and black-cattle, especially since the commencement of 
steam navigation. 

Fisheries. — On the coast, fish of all the kinds common in Scot- 
land, and of excellent quality, abound. The cole-fish, in all its 



KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. 3 

gradations of size, here distinguished by the names of silloch, cuith, 
cuthine, and saithe, is by. far the most useful, constituting a prin- 
cipal part of the food of the poorer classes. 

Sea trout are taken in considerable numbers in the bays and 
small brooks or burns, which they ascend in October and Novem- 
ber for the purpose of spawning, returning in the spring months. 
Salmon are very rarely met with, though now and then a stray fish 
is caught. 

II. — Civil History. 

Kirkwall was erected into a royal burgh by a charter from James 
IIL of Scotland, dated Slst March a. d. 1486, and is governed by 
a provost, four bailies, dean of guild, treasurer, and council- 
lors. It is also the seat of the Sheriff- Court, Justice of Peace 
Court, presbytery, and synod. 

Eminent Men. — Of eminent characters connected with the pa- 
rish, those most worthy of notice are, Sir Robert Strange, the emi- 
nent engraver ; Malcolm Laing, Esq. the well-known historian of 
Scotland, over whose remains, in the cathedral, is erected a hand- 
some marble tablet, bearing a very elegant inscription in Latin ; 
and Dr Traill, the present accomplished Professor of Medical Ju- 
risprudence^ in the University of Edinburgh; all of whom were 
born in Kirkwall. 

Land-owners, — The principal land-owners arc the Earl of Zet- 
land ; Mr Baikie of Tankerness ; Mr Balfour of Trenaby ; Mr 
Pollexfen of Cairston ; Mr Laing of Papdale ; and Mr Graeme of 
Graeme's Hall. 

Public Buildings. — The chief public buildings are, the Cathe- 
dral of St Magnus, the Earl's and Bishop's palaces, and King's 
castle, the town house, and grammar school. 

Of these edifices, the most deserving of notice is the Cathedral, 
founded a. d. 1138, by Rognvald or Ronald, Count of Orkney, 
and dedicated to the memory of his uncle, Magnus, also Earl of 
Orkney, and canonized for his piety, real or repuled. This state- 
ly building still remains in a condition of wonderful entireness and 
preservation, considering its great antiquity. Its choir having 
been immemorially used in lieu of a parish church, the cathedral 
was, for a long period, upheld and repaired, solely by a small fund 
arising from seat-rents, which, however, being very inadequate for 
the purpose, the building would speedily have fallen into decay, 
had not a wealthy native of the county, Mr Meason of Moredun, 
about thirty years ago, mortified a sum, amounting, after deduction 



4 ORKNEY. 

of legacy duty, to L.000, for the purpose of repairing .nnd beautify- 
ing it, by the annual application of the interest ; and this liben|l 
gift has since contributed very much to its preservation. The 
cathedral is the property of ** the provost, bailies, council, and 
inhabitants of the burgh/' to whom it was gifted by the above 
cited charter of James IIL, conBrmed by a new charter from 
James V., dated 1536; and a third, by Charles II. in 1661, ra- 
tifying the former two. Upon this charter infeftment followed in 

1669, and all these titles were confirmed by Act of Parliament, 

1670, cap. 42. These charters also conveyed to the magistrates 
and corporation, the patronage of the two benefices in Kirkwall* 
which, however, the crown-officers, about twelve years ago, claimed 
for the crown : but the question being carried to the Court of Ses- 
sion, and by appeal to the House of Lords, the right of the corpo* 
ration to the patronages, and, consequently, to the property of the 
cathedral, conveyed by the same titles, was found to be valid and 
impregnable. 

The cathedral is built in that style of mixed Gothic and Saxon 
architecture common in the age of its erection. Its length outside 
is 226 feet ; breadth, 56 ; height of the main roof, 71 ; and from 
the floor to the top of the steeple, 133. The main roof of the 
choir and part of the nave is elegantly arched, and is supported 
by 32 pillars, faced with freestone. The side aisles, behind the 
pillars, are finished above by a series of groined arches, and the 
whole is lighted by 103 windows, including those in the steeple, 
some of them in the Gothic style, and of great size. The steeple 
contains an excellent chime of three large bells, rung by ropes at- 
tached to the clappers, so as to produce a kind of melody, in the 
ancient cathedral fashion. 

The Earl's Palace, the ruins of which, still pretty entire, stand 
near the cathedral to the south-east, was erected, a. d. 1660, by 
Patrick Stewart, Earl of Orkney, whose father, Robert, was a 
natural son of James V. The bishop's palace, whose ruins are 
also situated very near the cathedral, is of much greater antiquity 
and in a much more dilapidated state. It was honoured by the 
residence in it at difierent periods of two royal guests, Haco, King 
of Norway, who died in this building, and James V. of Scotland, 
who, in the course of a progress through his dominions, lodged 
there for a short time and partook of the bishop's hospitality. Of 
the King's Castle, erected in the 14th century by Earl Henry 



KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. S 

St Clair, a very inconsiderable and ruined portion now remains t(t 
mark the spot on which it once stood. 

Parochial Reffisters.-^The parochial registers, in the custody of 
the kirk-session, consist of 6ve volumes of register of baptisms, ex- 
tending from 1657 to the present time, without interruption ; three 
volumes of register of marriages, from 1657 to the current year ; 
and five volumes of the minutes of session, containing the resffestcSf 
from 1626 to 1840, with the exception of ten years, from 1659 to 
1669, the records of which appear to have been lost. No regular 
or continuous register of deaths or burials was kept till within the 
last fifty years. 

III. — Population. 

Amount of population in 1801, . 2621 

1811, 22fe«d 

1821, 3246 

1831, . 3721 

It appears from a comparison of successive censuses taken since 
the commencement of the present century, that the population of 
Kirkwall was, for many years, progressively on the increase. It is, 
however, the general belief that, since 1831, the population, if not 
decreasing, has been at least stationary.* This, indeed, is evident 
from the fact, that house building, which in former years went on 
very briskly, has of late been almost at a stand, and many habita- 
tions in the town are at present untenanted. This arrest on the 
increase of population is mainly to be ascribed to the failure of the 
kelp trade, formerly the staple of these islands, the large profits of 
which gave a stimulus to industry and trade; and though the 
fisheries have been greatly extended since that manufacture was 
given up, or nearly so, yet the emolument arising from the former 
source has passed into other hands. Those who profit by the 
fishing are chiefly boatmen and labourers, who lay out their little 
capital, not in trade in the towns, but in farming or an extension 
of their fishing speculations. 

The average number of marriages, births, and deaths for the 
five years ending with 1839, appears from the parish registers to 
be, — marriages, 26; births, 41; deaths, 59. 

The inhabitants of the town consist chiefly of shopkeepers, trades* 
men of the diflerent crafts, sailors, boatmen, and labourers. Be« 
sides these, there are a few resident proprietors, officers of customs 
and excise, three medical practitioners, two bankers, six gentlemea 

* The new census, uken while this Account was in the prcM» eihibits accordingly 
a decrease of 147 in the ten years, — the population being now oi.ly 3574. 



6 ORKNEY. 

of the law, and ministers of four communions, five in number; to- 
gether with several teachers of youth, male and female. 

The shopkeepers are very numerous, almost every alternate 
house, in most parts of the town, containing a shop. ^Fhe princi- 
pal shops are well stocked with goods of every description, imported 
from Edinburgh, London, and other markets ; and which are sold 
on very moderate profits, considering the distance of the markets 
and the great expense of carriage. 

Many of the mechanics execute their work well, but they are 
generally complained of as dilatory, seldom executing their orders 
within the stipulated time ; though the undoubted fact was pro- 
bably an extreme case, of a gentleman sending a nursery-fender 
to be painted, which was not returned till after the boys, for whose 
safety it was intended, returned, grown men, from college ! 

The sailors and boatmen, for skill, hardihood, and dexterity in 
their profession, are not surpafised by their brethren in any part of 
the world. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — As few of the estates in St Ola have been sur- 
veyed or measured, the extent in acres of the cultivated ground 
cannot be accurately given ; but by "good judges, it is thought, that 
the arable ground does not exceed 1200 or 1500 acres, which, on 
an average, is rented at about 16s. per acre. Considerable im- 
provement in the modes of farming has taken place, of late years ; 
several proprietors, and tenants, having introduced the improved 
modes of agriculture practised in the south, by rotation of crops, 
draining, and enclosing. Oats, barley, and bear, potatoes, turnips 
and artificial grasses, are cultivated with success. Mr Pollexfcn 
of Cairston, besides setting an example of general good farming, 
on a part of his property in his own occupation, has made such 
improvements in the production of grass and turnip seeds, as to 
have attracted the approving notice of the Agricultural Associa- 
tions ; and the seeds raised by him are in considerable request, 
even in the south of Scotland. 

There is a considerable extent of pasture lands in the parish. 
The common charge for pasturage of an ox or cow is L. 1, 10s. 
The wages of ploughmen are L. 7, 7s. per annum in money, with 
allowances of meal, milk, and potatoes ; making the whole fee, 
L. 14 or L. 15. Feniale domestic servants receive, at an average, 
L. S per annum, with their maintenance. Price of labour. Is. to 
lis. 8d. per day. 



KIRKWALL AND ST OLA* 7 

The sheep pastured on the commons, which are undivided, are 
less numerous than formerly, but in their breed, as well as that of 
cattle and horses, a gradual improvement is taking place. 

Prices of Produce^ Sfc — A horse, L. 12 to L. 16; a milch cow, 
L. 5 to L.6 ; a good sheep, L. 1 ; a goose, 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; poultry, 
8d. each ; beef, 5d. to 6d. per lb. ; oatmeal, 2s. to 2s. 6d. per 
stone ; potatoes, 2s. per barrel. 

Manufactures. — Since the demand for kelp has so greatly di- 
minished, the only kind of industry in the parish, properly falling 
under this denomination, is the plaiting of straw for hats and bon- 
nets, which, more or less, occupies three-fourths of the female 
population. This manufacture has been carried on for forty years, 
and has proved a very seasonable source of emolument to the 
poorer classes. The raw material is either Tuscan straw imported 
from Leghorn, or rye-straw raised in Orkney, which is more 
durable, and very little inferior in appearance. This kind of labour, 
as at present conducted by the agents giving out the straw to the 
women to be manufactured in their own dwellings, is not liable to 
the objection of injuring the morals, as in the case of manufactures 
which assemble multitudes of the young in one place. In this 
manufacture, a woman earns from Sd. to 9d. per day, according to 
her skill and diligence or the time which she devotes to the em- 
ployment. There are two licensed distilleries in the parish, which 
export a considerable quantity of whisky, besides what is sold in 
the place. 

Navigation, — The town is provided with a safe and commodious 
harbour, constructed thirty years ago, and well frequented both 
by coasting and other vessels, including some from Norway and 
the Baltic 

lliere are, at present, sixty-eight vessels which sail from this 
port, as registered in the custom-house books ; but as forty-seven 
of these belong to Stromness, and other harbours through the 
islands, the number strictly belonging to the town of Kirkwall and 
trading from it, is twenty-one, the tonnage of which is 1593, and 
the number of men and boys employed in them, 106. 

Considerable quantities of grain, fish cured in the islands, cattle, 
and other produce, are annually exported, both coastwise and to 
foreign ports. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Means of Communication. — Kirkwall was formerly entitled to 
only three mails per week; but about a year ago (1839), through 



8 ORKNEY. 

the exertions of the county and burgh Members, a daily post was 
established ; in other words, the mail-boat is bound, on every law- 
ful day, when weather permits, to cross the Pentland Frith. 

A good sailing vessel, for conveyance of goods and passengers, 
plies all the year between this town and Leith ; and within the 
last few years, the place has obtained the great advantage of a 
weekly visit from an excellent and powerful steamer, which ac- 
complishes the voyage to Leith, including several long stoppages, 
in from 34 to 40 hours. 

The roads through the parish have of late years been greatly 
improved, which has led to the introduction of gigs and phaetons 
for hire. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish is a collegiate charge, the 
two ininisters officiating in the cathedral alternately. Their sti- 
pends were modiBed, each to L. 150 ; but, being partly paid in 
kind, have for many years fallen short of that sum. The first 
minister has a glebe consisting of about 50 acres arable, with 
pasturage; and its annual value has, for some years, been somewhat 
upwards of Lb 40. He has also a manse, erected 140 years ago, 
but which at present is let by the heritors, who pay the present 
incumbent an annuity in lieu of it. The second minister has nei- 
ther manse nor glebe ; but, under a late act of Parliament, draws 
from the Exchequer L. 50 in lieu of both. 

The only place of worship in connection with the Establish- 
ment, which the inhabitants have ever enjoyed, is the choir or 
clfancel of the cathedral, which is seated to accommodate from 
830 to 870 sitters ; but so awkwardly, that it has been ascertained 
by measurement, that a better arrangement of the seats and po- 
sition of the pulpit would give at least an addition of 150 avail- 
able seats. The cathedral is placed in the centre of the parish, 
and there is no dwelling, 'more than two and a-half or three miles 
from the place of worship, while five-sixths of the population are 
within half a mile of it. The accommodation in the cathedral 
was probably sufficient for all the church-going population at a 
former period ; but as the number of inhabitants increased, the 
want of more church room was severely felt, and a portion of the 
inhabitants, who could not procure seats, or such as they wished, 
accepted the offer of the Antiburgher Seceders to establish a 
congregation* there. A chapel in that connection was accordingly 
erected forty-four years ago, and afterwards rebuilt on a larger 
scale. Shortly after, an Independent meeting-house was erected> 



KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. 9 

and more recently, one in connection with the Original or Asso- 
ciate Secession Synod. Thus a majority of the inhabitants are 
Dissenters, and from the great length of time that they have been 
so, and their strong attachment to their respective persuasions, 
there is no probability that, in any circumstances, many of them 
will return to the Established Church. While the churchman 
must regret this state of matters, yet, if a Christian, he will re- 
joice that not one individual in this parish, except through his 
own fault, is deprived of an opportunity of attending divine ordi-^ 
nances in a Protestant, or even a Presbyterian place of worship, 
and under pastors of good character, and preaching the Gospel 
in its purity. Of how many cities or burghs in Scotland can the 
same be said ? 

The cathedral, which is used as the parish church, though never 
designated or legally divided as such, nor upheld by the heritors 
of town or country, is well attended, notwithstanding that it is 
damp, and, like all such ancient buildings, inconvenient as a place 
of worship. While the population was rapidly increasing, all its 
seats were let, and for the most part occupied. At present, how- 
ever, and for a few years past, from 60 to 100 seats are unoccu* 
pied in the ordinary diets of worship, and 320 are unlet, besides a 
few free seats held as heritable, and a considerable number assigned 
gratuitously to the poor. The rents, rendered necessary for paying 
beadles, repairing seat£, firing, and lighting, are extremely mode- 
rate, varying from 6d. to Ss. per sitter, which is the highest charge 
excepting one seat, containing eleven sitters, which rents at 4s. 

About four years ago, a few individuals in the parish proposed 
erecting a new church by subscription, as they thought that, from 
the circumstance of a great number of the burgh heritors being Dis- 
senters, there was no hope of obtaining a parish church without a 
law-suit. Many of the congregation, understanding that it was to 
be used instead of the cathedral, contributed small spms to the 
undertaking; but by far the greater part of the subscriptions were 
obtained throughout Scotland and England. The chapel, situat- 
ed close to the cathedral, and large enough to contain all the 
church population, man, woman, and child, is now nearly finished^ 
and if it were to be occupied as a substitute for the old and incoiv 
venient cathedral, would prove a great benefit to the place. Such» 
however, does not seem to be the intention of its proprietors. 
They applied for a grant from the General Assembly's Extension 
Committee, to aid in its erection, as an additional and separate place 



10 ORKNEY. 

of worship, to be served by one of the colleague ministers. The Ex- 
tension Committee granted L.200 towards its erection Four mana- 
gers of the chapel have since presented a petition, which lies on the 
table of the Presbytery, praying them to divide the parish, uncolle- 
.giate the ministers, placing one of them in the chapel as minister of 
y>ne-half the parish, but reserving to him his civil rights and emo- 
luments as a minister of the whole or quoad civilia parish. This, 
in the circumstances of the parish, would be just to convert one 
of the charges into a sinecure, so far as preaching is concerned ; 
as it is certain, and the petitioners calculate upon it, that when 
the comparison comes to be between the old and incommodious 
cathedral, and a comfortable chapel just next door, the whole 
audience will evacuate the cathedral, while, by the proposal, one 
of the ministers must still continue to officiate there. As the 
principal heritors are perfectly willing that the worship should be 
wholly transferred to the chapel, the proper course appears to be, 
to obtain the Presbytery's sanction to its occupation as a preaching 
station, in lieu of the cathedral ; and this is the consummation 
which has all along been desired by the whole community, except- 
ing a few individuals. 

Education. — The antiquity of the principal educational esta- 
blishment in the parish, called the grammar school, cannot be ac- 
curately ascertained ; but it cannot be much, if at all, short of 500 
years old : for in the fifteenth century, it is referred to in the town's 
charter, as an existing establishment. At that time, and long af- 
ter, it was taught by an ecclesiastic, the prebend of St Peter, con- 
nected with the cathedral ; and even after the teachers were lay- 
men, we find by the records, that they drew and enjoyed the emo- 
luments of that prebendary, (November 1652). This goodly 
endowment, however, was, amidst the troubles of these times, 
alienated from the schoolmaster, and became merged either in the 
funds for payment of the clergymen of the different parishes con- 
nected with the prebendary, or in the revenues of the bishopric, 
which passed into the possession of the Crown. He, however, 
retained, and his successors still retain, a payment of thirty meills 
or bolls of malt, — the fruit of a voluntary contribution made by 
the clergy and other gentlemen of Orkney a. d. 1649, amounting 
to 2000 merks, which were mortified in the hands of Lord Mor- 
ton, on condition of said annual payment of malt, out of the feu- 
duties of the earldom, then held by the Earl of Morton, and now 
by the Earl of Zetland. To this there was, twenty years ago, 



KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. H 

added a new endowment by John Balfour, Esq. of Trenaby, for- 
merly Member of Parliament for the county, of the interest of 
L.500, very liberally mortified by him in the bands of trustees, for 
which the schoolmaster is taken bound to educate eight poor chil- 
dren, recommended by the donor or his representatives. These 
constitute the sole endowments now possessed by the grammar 
schoolmaster, which, together with the fees paid by the scholars, 
make up but a very moderate living. The school at present, and 
for sixteen years past, taught by a very able and talented teacher, 
Mr James Craig, is attended by from 80 to 100 scholars, male 
and female, who are instructed in the Greek, Latin, French, and 
English languages, mathematics, navigation, arithmetic, and 
the principles of the Christian religion. During the sixteenth 
and seventeenth centuries, it appears from the records, that 
the school-house was upheld, and the schoolmaster appoint* 
ed, by the kirk-session ; but since that period, the patronage has 
been exercised by the town-council, who also, upwards of twenty 
years ago, erected a new and elegant school-house, in lieu of th(» 
old one, which had become ruinous ; — and while they cx)ntinue to 
uphold the school-house, as at present, and to present, as they 
have done for some time past, able and respectable masters to the 
school, it is not likely that their right of patronage will be called 
in question. 

Besides the grammar school, there is one endowed by the So- 
ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and attended by from 
50 to 60 scholars, children of the poor; and there are several other 
schools taught on private adventure. There is a private school 
for young ladies taught by an accomplished teacher, and a female 
charity school, supported by benevolent ladies in the town. There 
are likewise three Sabbath schools, numerously attended, and an 
infant school. 

The benefits of education are generally appreciated by parents ; 
and there are scarcely any betwixt the ages of six and sixty who 
cannot read. 

Libraries, — There are two subscription libraries in the town, the 
oldest of which, called " The Orkney Library,^' is on a pretty ex- 
tensive scale. 

Charitable Institutions. — There are three Relief or Friendly So- 
cieties in the town, affording aid to widows, orphans, and, in the 
case of one at least, to sick or reduced members. There are also 



12 ORKNEY, 

two subscription Societies for the relief of the indigent or destitute 
sick. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — This parish, like all the rest in the 
county, has been hitherto exempt from the evils of legal assess- 
ment. The poor receive relief from the parochial funds at the dis- 
posal of the kirk-session, from the revenue of an estate in the pa- 
rish, which the Crown, as ultimus hosresy vested in trustees for cha- 
ritable purposes, and from another fund in the management of the 
town«council. The United Secession Congregation also afford 
relief to their own poor.- 

The average number of poor on the kirk-session's permanent roll 
is 81^, and the average rate of relief to each per annum is from 
2s. to L.l, 10s. Besides these, an average number of 32^ receive 
occasional relief, amounting to L.7,0s. Sd. per annum, and from L.5 
to L.7s, 10s. have been expended annually on the education of poor 
children. The funds under the administration of the kirk-session 
arise from church-door collections, averaging L.d9, Ss. 8d. per 
annum ; donations, and dues arising from marriages and burials. 

Prisons. — There is one prison connected with the town-house, 
not of the best description ; but a new one is in contemplation un- 
der the late Prison Act. 

Inns. — Of these there are several, but one only adapted for the 
accommodation of respectable travellers. 

Fairs. — There is one fair, commencing on the first Tuesday 
after the 11th August, and continuing a fortnight. 

Fuel — The principal fuel is English coal ; but peats procured 
in this and the adjacent parishes are much used by the poor. 

June 1841. 



PARISH OF ORPHIR. 

PRESBYTERY OP CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. JAMES ANDERSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, — The name Orphir, formerly written Orfer, is said to 
be of Norwegian origin, and to signify ^re land^ or mossy soil 

Situation. — The parish lies west of Kirkwall on the mainland; 
and the church and manse are about nine miles distant from 
Kirkwall. 

Boundaries^ Sfc, — It is bounded on the west and north, by the 
parishes of Stenness and Firth, from which it is divided by a range 
of high hills ; on the east and south, by the parish of Kirkwall, the 
bay of Seal pa, and the sea that intervenes between it and the pa- 
rish of South Ronaldsay, from which it is distant about twelve miles. 
The average length, by accurate measurement, is 6 miles, 6 fur- 
longs, and 200 yards ; average breadth, 2 miles, 5 furlongs, and 
Id yards ; and it contains about 18 square miles. The length along 
the coast, from Claistran to Scalpa is 13 miles, 7 furlongs, and 
13 yards; the length, on the land boundary, is 10 miles, 2 fur- 
longs, and 40 yards. The circumference of the whole is 24 miles, 
1 furlong, and 53 yards. 

Topographical Appearances, — From Houton head, the south- 
west point, there is a succession of hills and valleys north-east, 
not only through the whole length of the parish, but to the oppo- 
site shore of the mainland, where the parishes of Kirkwall and 
Firth meet. 

Mountain Ranges. — Houton head is about 300 feet above the 
level of the sea. The next hills in succession rise gradually ; and 
the Wart hill, which is the highest of the whole, is about 700 feet. 
From the top of this, when the sky is clear, there is a very ex ten • 
sive, varied, and delightful view, not only over the greater part of 
the county, but also along the west coast of Caithness, from Dungs- 
bay head to Cape Wrath, and over several of the loftiest hills in 
the interior of Caithness and Sutherland. The scene is also 



14 ORKNKY. 

agreeably varied by the frequent view of ships passing through the 
Pentland Frith, and vessels belonging to the country, on their 
departure and return. The eagle is frequently seen soaring high 
over the hills, and sometimes darts on the poultry about the far- 
mers' houses. 

Valleys. — As the parish is bounded on the west by a succession 
of hills and valleys, these valleys began to be cultivated soon after 
the division of the common, which took place in 1818, at the in- 
stance of the late Sir William Honyman, the principal proprietor; 
and twenty-six small farms have been cultivated in these valleys, 
where there had been no dwelling-house before. In these valleys, 
the soil is in general rich and deep, and yielded rich crops from 
their first cultivation. In different parts of the valleys, the culti- 
vation has not yet been carried to the extent that it admits. 
There are small burns issuing from springs, and running in a south- 
easterly direction. At their sources, the ground is comparatively 
steep, and becomes more level, as they approach the shore. 

Caves. — These are few, and excite no great interest in the mind 
of the spectator. In Houton head, there is a small cave in the 
face of the rock, the mouth of which is about 90 feet above flood 
mark, narrow at the entrance, but widening, and becoming higher 
towards the inner extremitv, which extends to the distance of about 
14 feet from the mouth. It acquired some celebrity in 1808, from 
affording a temporary shelter to two young men in the neighbour- 
hood, who endeavoured to escape from being impressed. 

Nearly a mile east from the church, there are three small caves 
in the face of the rock Bernory, which rises to the height of about 
80 feet One of them may be entered on foot at low water, and 
extends but a small distance under the rock. The other two can 
be approached only by boat, extend farther under ground, and at 
the lowest ebb the sea is about two fathoms deep at their mouths, 
becoming more shallow as the caves recede from the shore. The 
sides are irregular, composed of sandstone ; the roof a coarse spe- 
cies of freestone, and in general flat; the sides converging towards 
the top. On the sides and in the crevices, a few wild pigeons 
build their nests, and lodge at all seasons. 

On the side of Scalpa bay, near the line of boundary between 
this parish and the parish of Kirkwall, there is a cave called the 
Salt Pans, running parallel to the shore to the distance of twenty 
paces. The front has the appearance of freestone pillars at irregu- 
lar distances about five feet high. Above and below, and also behind 

4 



ORPHIR. 15 

these pillars, there are rocks of harder stone. The name is sup- 
posed to have arisen from the practice of manufacturing salt by 
boiling the salt water ; but no such manufacture is now remember- 
ed to have been carried on at the place. 

Coast — From Houton head, westward to the parish of Strom- 
ness, the coast is nearly level, and for the most part wholly so. 
The banks nowhere rise above ten feet, and consist of thin strata 
of sandstone. Hero the strata dip to the east and north. Be- 
low flood-mark, some parts are sandy, others covered with small 
pebbles, and frequently with rugged rocks, on which grows a con- 
siderable quantity of tang, of which kelp is made. 

At Houton head, the strata dip to the west and south. From 
this, eastward, is a succession of small bays, in some degree cor- 
responding to the valleys on the west. The shores of these bays 
are in some cases sandy, but more generally covered with pebbles, 
and in some cases the banks are from 1*2 to 14 feet high. The 
headlands between the bays generally rise to a greater height : the 
highest, however, do not exceed 40 feet, and few of them reach 
30. There is nothing particularly striking in the appearance of 
these bays and headlands. The strata in the headlands, which con- 
sist commonly of grey slate or greywacke, are generally regular, 
though in some cases they have a waving direction, and sometimes 
there is a perpendicular line of junction, where the strata, on each 
side of this line, rise a little, as if compressed by some external 
force during their formation. Here, the strata dip to the west and 
north. In the bay of Swanbister, which is the largest of the whole, 
and nearly two miles broad, there is a sandy shore ; and a consi- 
derable number of cockles and some spouts are obtained during 
stream tides. 

Island. — Cava, the only island, is about a-mileand a-half south- 
east of Houton head. There are only twenty Scots acres cultivated 
in it, and these lie in the middle on the south side. It contained 
twenty-one inhabitants at last census. The cultivated soil is a rich 
black loam, producing excellent crops, both of oats and bear, there 
being abundance of sea-weed for manure. Part of what is unculti- 
vated consists of excellent peat moss. The rocks around the shore 
are chiefly common sandstone, freestone, and some limestone. 
Thecircumferenceof the island is 3 miles, 1 furlong, and 80 yard?* 

The holm of Houton lies in the bay of Houton, not a quarter 
of a mile in length and less in breadth ; it is covered with 
a coarse kind of grass used for pasture. Part of it was cultivat- 



16 ORKNEY, 

ed, a few years ago, for one season ; but the soil being near tne 
rock, and the summer dry, the crop was poor, and therefore the 
cultivation was discontinued. The channel which separates the 
holm from Houton head becomes dry for about two hours at low 
water. The inlet on the side next to the church admits sloops 
into the bay, even at low water. For many years past, it has been 
in contemplation to convey the mail from Thurso, by a decked 
vessel, direct to the bay of Houton, from whence runners could 
bring it soon to Kirkwall and Stromness. This bay was lately 
surveyed for the purpose, but the result is not yet known. 

There is a small skerry, about two miles south-east of the church, 
called, the barrel ofbutter^ the origin of which name is said to be, 
that the tenants on the lands of the Bull, which surround the 
church, paid to the proprietor a rent of a barrel of butter for the 
privilege of killing seals on this skerry. It is never completely 
covered by the sea at stream tides. There is a spot of coarse 
grass in the middle. On this, seals are seen to bask on a sunny 
day, but of late, no attempt has been made to disturb their repose. 

Hydrography^ — The frith between Houton head and the island 
of Walls, is about four miles broad. By this, all vessels from the 
south and east pass to Stromness, and approach either between 
the island of South Ronaldsay and the islands of Walls and Flotta, 
or by Holm sound. 

Springs. — There is a great abundance of copious springs of pure 
water. '^Fhere are also a few chalybeatesi which are reckoned salu- 
tary and beneficial in nervous complaints. 

Lakes. — There is but one lake ; the lake or loch of Kirbister, 
1 mile, 1 furlong, and 116 yards long; circumference, 2 miles, 3 
furlongs, and 170 yards; surface, 180 Scots acres; the depth va- 
ries from 3 to 9 feet It is supplied by small burns in various di- 
rections ; and near the south-east, there is an excellent mill. It 
abounds in small trouts, which are taken by hooks and flies by the 
people in the neighbourhood : and anglers from Kirkwall occasion, 
ally resort to it in summer. 

Geology. — The rocks along the shore are nowhere high, few 
above 30 feet They are generally of sandstone ; in soma 
places, slaty. In the bay at the church, at low water, there 
pire several rocks of the schistose kind, running nearly in a 
south and north direction, about six feet in breadth, rising from 
their bed about two feet, sloping on the sides, and exhibit- 
ing in the middle the appearance of having been pressed to- 



OHPHIR. 17 

getherin their formation, by some very powerful force from beneath. 
The distance between these ridges is from four to five feet, 'there 
are several of these ridges, and they run parallel to each other. 
On the west side of this bay, there is a rock of this kind of stone, 
from 25 to dO feet high; and about the middle, there is a perpen- 
dicular line where the junction exhibits signs, on each side, of great 
pressure in the formation. Of the freestone, some is coarse grain- 
ed, and some fine and white. The shores of Swanbister, belong- 
ing to Thomas Sands, Esq. abound in this last,' and are carried 
to Kirkwall and Stromness, for various purposes. 

There was lately discovered a quarry of excellent gray slate on 
the side of the hill of Midland next to Houton, at an elevation of 
about 400 feet, belonging to Hector MoncriefT, Esq. of Houton. 
In summer 1834, 6000 slates were sent to Kirkwall and South 
Konaldsay ; 1835, 12,000 were sent to the same places ; and last 
summer, about 12,000. 

Soil. — In the fields, which have been longest in cultivation, the 
soil is generally a rich black loam, yields fair crops of corn, rich natu- 
ral grass ; and ryegrass and clover have been tried with success. In 
some parts, the soil is a cold clay ; but a large proportion is sandy 
and shallow, over rocks of sandstone, and yields light crops. 

Birds, — The chief of these are : hawks (Falco), both dark- 
brown and grey. Owls {Strix ulula)^ dark- grey. The royal eagle 
( Falcofulvus). Crows {Corvus cornix). The starling (Sturnus)^ 
thrush {Turdus)^ wagtail (Motacilla alba), lark (Alauda arven- 
sis), linnet (B'ringilla), swallow (Hirundu), cuckoo {Cuculus canO' 
rus)i landrail (Rallus crex), wild pigeon {Columba cenas), moor- 
fowl (Tl Scoticus), plover {Charadrius). — Of water-fowls are gulls 
(Larus ridihundus), wild goose (Anas aiiser), duck {A. boschas)^ 
solan goose {Pelecanus Bassanus), puffin (AIca arctica), auk (^. 
torda)y crane (Grus). 

Fishes, cj-c. — Haddock (Gadus JEgleJinm), cod {G.morhua), 
ling (G. Molva), skate (/?««>), dog-fish {Squalus Acavthias,) eel 
{Murana anguiUa), whiting (G. merlangus), mackerel (Scomber), 
tvtrbot {Pleuronectes hippoglossus), flounder (P. Jlesus), coalfish 
(G. carbonarius), trout (Salmo Jario). — Shell fish; cockle (Car-- 
diurn), razor or spout-fish (Solen), lobster (Cancer gammarus), crab 
(C. pagurus), and buckies of various species. 

Ilepiiles, cjc. — The frog (Rana), toad (Bufo), are sometimes to 
be seen, though rarely, particularly the latter. Gnats or midges are 

ORKNEY. B 



18 ORKNEY. 

very numerous in the warm summer evenings, and often trouble* 
some to those occupied in the open air. 

Botany, — There is a great variety of plants in the pasture 
and meadow grounds, and they are general over the whole county ; 
some of which are, mint (MerUha)^ marsh marigold (Caltha palus^ 
tris)^ thyme (Thymus serpyllum), foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)^ 
scurvy-grass (Cochlearia afficinalis)^ water-cresses (Nasturtium 
officinale)^ cranesbill (Geranium cicutarium), trefoil (Lotus comi^ 
culatus\ coltsfoot (Tussilagofarfara), 

There are no trees except a few in gardens, which become stunted 
when they rise above the walls. The willow (Salix repens^) is found 
in low ground along rivulets ; also (angustifolia^) but this appears to 
have been planted. Hazel-nuts have been, of late, turned up by 
the plough, though none of the trunks have been discovered. 
Whins ( Ulex EuropceuSf) are found in some places, and no doubt 
is entertained that they have been raised from seed. Turnips of 
different kinds thrive well, as also carrots and cabbages. The soil 
and climate seem abundantly favourable for leguminous crops. 

II. — Civil History. 
Earl Paul, the second of that name, who lived towards the close 

of the eleventh century, had a magnificent palace in this parish, 
the ruins of which are still perceptible on the shore of Swanbister. 
• Eminent Men, — The late Sir William Honyman, Lord Arma- 
dale, an eminent Judge in the Court of Session, was a native of 
this parish, and the principal landed proprietor in it. The resi- 
dence of his ancestors was in the Hall of Claistran. 

Murdoch Mackenzie, Esq. author of the Charts, though a na- 
tive of Kirkwall, was proprietor of Groundwater in this parish, and 
of lands in different parts in this county. Thomas Mackenzie, 
Esq. the present proprietor, is his direct descendant. 

Parochial Register, — The earliest date of baptisms is 1711 ; of 
marriages, 1718; of deaths, 1817. This last was begun, in con- 
sequence of the express orders of the General Assembly. 

Antiquities, — Besides the ruins of Earl Paul's palace, already 
mentioned, there are, in various places along the coast, from Hqji- 
ton-head eastward, the ruins of various buildings, which are sup- 
posed to be the remains of Popish chapels, and have nothing strik- 
ing in their appearance. There are three tumuli which have not 
been opened, — one near the church on level ground, — another 
near the manse, a little more elevated ; and both may be seen from 



OBPHIR. 19 

the third, which is on the top of the highest hill. There is no 
tradition 'concerning them. 

Buildings, — The Hall of Claistran is a double house of modern 
construction, at present occupied by a tenant. The principal 
landed proprietors have neat comfortable dwellings and commo- 
dious gardens, in which a good deal of taste is displayed. As the 
farms are in general small the dwelling-houses correspond with 
them, being built of stone and clay, and sometimes not plastered 
on the inside, with the fire-place in the middle of the floor, or to* 
wards the inner end of the apartment, where the family usually sit, 
with a stone fence of from four to five feet high, and about the 
same breadth, on the inner side of which the fire is placed. In 
later times, some improvement in these erections has taken place. 

nt — Population. 

In 1795, the population was 826 

1811, . 889 

1821, 917 

1831, . 996 

By the list census. 1841, the number of males is 482 ; females, 582; total, 1064 

The average of marriages for the last three years, • 17 

baptisms, . . 16|- 

iusane persons, . . 1 

Males. Females. Total. 

Number of souls in 1831 below 15 years of age, . 178 169 847 

from 15 to 30, . . 106 123 229 

30 to 50, . . 89 134 223 

50 to 70, 60 77 137 

above 70, 27 33 60 



460 536 996 

The average of marriages for the last seven years, 6f 

baptisms, . . . . 18^^ 

Number of bachelors and widowers above 50, . . 15 

unmarried women above 50, exclusive of widows, 12 

insane persons, .... 1 

Character^ ^c. of the People. — They are active, industrious, fru- 
gal, cheerful, and contented, quiet and social in their disposition. 
It is rare to hear of any quarrel amotig them. They have, in ge- 
neral, a deep sense of the principles of religion, and their punctual 
attendance on public worship, their decency of behaviour, and close 
iattention while there, are exemplary. It follows that intemperance, 
or petty thefts are rarely heard of, and those who are addicted to 
such habits, are treated with the contempt they deserve. 

The number of artisans is considerable. Many of the young men 
are much occupied in winter, in making shoes for themselves and 
others. Weavers and tailors have abundance of employment. 
There is a great number of masons, and several of them go in sum- 
mer to work in the neighbouring islands. There are several joinerSi 



20 ORKNEY. 

3 smiths, and I cooper. Most of the artisans have small farms, but 
not sufficient to maintain their families. Almost all the young 
women have, for many years, been employed in winter in plaiting 
straw for bonnets. 

The habits of the people are gradually improving. There is, 
however, a propensity among the young of both sexes to extrava- 
gance in dress. Umbrellas are in general use. English cloths, 
prints, and merinos are common. 

While kelp was in demand, and brought a high price, a consi-* 
derable number of men and young women was employed in the 
manufacture of it ; but now little is done in this way. 

The young people are usually prudent enough in entering into 
matrimony, and seldom take this step, until they have a tolerable 
prospect of the means of subsistence. An unfortunate habit, 
however, has long prevailed among some of the young men, 
of going in the winter evenings to tippling-hoUses. This, doubt- 
less, operates unfavourably in various ways, and deprives the in- 
dividuals of that respectability of character to which they would 
be entitled, from their industry and economy in other respects. 
Resolutions were issued by the county gentlemen a few years ago, 
to put a stop to such practices, by diminishing the number of licens- 
ed ale-houses. Their resolutions, however, have not yet produced 
the salutary effect intended. 

A Sunday school was commenced some time ago, which, it is 
hoped, will have a very beneficial influence. 

IV. — Industrv. 
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The greater part of the farms 
are from six to eight Scots acres in extent, and at a rent of from lOs. 
to 15s. per acre, according to the quality of the soil. The common 
rotation is oats and bear, with a few potatoes : of these, seldom 
more are raised than what the family requires. Some also raise a 
few turnips for family use. There are three large farms, paying a 
rent of from L.50 to L.80 each. On these, there is a rotation of 
rye- grass and clover, which are not broken up for two or three 
years : then oats, next potatoes or turnips, and then bear, with 
which the grass and clover are sown. The greater part of the 
first year's crop of sown grass is cut for hay, and the field is after- 
wards used for pasture. Wheat has been tried, but with indiffer- 
ent success. In some cases, it grew luxuriantly, but was never well 
filled or fully ripened. In ordinary seasons, it is common to see 



ORPHIU. 21 

the fields cleared against the end of Septennber, and a late crop 
is always an inferior one. 

Breeds of Live-Stock. — The black-cattle are, in general, 
such as are common over the county ; and, as an over-stock 
is frequently kept, they have rather a stunted appearance. A 
few of what are called the Dunrobin breed have been introdu- 
ced, and though they do not grow to a large size, they have a 
sprightly appearance. The price of the latter, compared with 
the former, is usually as L. 5 to L. 3. The native horses are 
generally of a small size. Those on the larger farms are of a 
superior breed, and, compared with the former, may be rated about 
two to one &s to price, that is as L.8 to L. 16. The native sheep are 
of a small size, live on the common at all seasons, — on the hills in 
summer, and along the shore in winter : they are never housed. At 
Lammas a wedder brings about 5s. A few Cheviots have been tried, 
but have not thriven well, except on the larger farms. These, io 
their best condition, bring L.1, Is. each. 

Husbandry^ — The one- stilt plough, drawn by three horses, was 
used on some of the smaller farms, about twenty-five years ago. It 
is now wholly out of use. Though it had a clumsy appearance, it 
had this advantage, that it broke the ground in some soils more 
completely than those now in use. Iron ploughs are coming into 
use, and are expected to prove more economical than those made 
of wood. There are a few leases for nineteen years, but they are 
more generally for shorter periods, fourteen, eleven, or seven years. 
Very few of the farms are inclosed except the larger ones. 

The method of preparing the crop for drying when cut, before 
it is put into the stack, deserves attention. 1'he band of the sheaf 
is made in the usual way and pulled by the root, except when the 
crop is luxuriant, and then it is cut. The sheaf is made of rather 
a large size. The band is drawn nearer the crop end than the root, 
and when the ends are pulled and crossed, they are then twisted 
and turned with dexterity so as to rest against the sheaf, but the 
ends thus twisted are not turned within the band. The sheaf thus 
formed is set on end by itself, and the root end spread out a little. 
It is so placed, that the root end of the band is on the lee- side, 
from whatever quarter the wind is blowing at the time, and the 
crop of the sheaf gets a gentle pressure to the lee-side also. The 
sheaf thus placed is not apt to fall, and after having stood live or 
six days in this position, in favourable weather, it is fit for being 
screwed, that is, for being built into ricks on the field. These 



22 ORKNEY. 

ricks consist of twenty-four sheaves, which when put together re- 
ceive the name of threave. The two last sheaves of the rick are 
put across each other, and so tied together by portions of them* 
selves, that they are not apt to fall even when the wind is "high. 
The ricks, after standing for a week, in favourable weather, are fit 
for the stack. It is obvious, that, in rainy harvests, which are 
frequent in this climate, this method of placing the sheaves and 
ricks is most favourable for preserving the grain from being in- 
jured by the heavy falls of rain. The consequence is, that the 
crop is rarely injured, in harvest, to any great degree, in the most 
unfavourable weather. 
Fisheries. — The principal fishing, of late years, has been of herring. 
About thirty years ago, herrings were got in Scalpa Bay for a few 
days in a season ; but more lately, they have not been sought for 
there, nor are they ever found on tliis coast. There are, however, 
eight boats, with four men each thus employed.* They repair to the 
island of Stronsay toward the end of July, and about two weeks 
after go to South Ronaldsay, where they remain about a month, 
or till the herrings leave the coast of that island. Vessels from 
Rothesay and from Ireland attend to receive the herrings, as soon 
they are barreled. The price for some years past has varied from 
9s. to l'2s. per cran or barrel. The average, for each boat this 
season, has been fifty-five crans. About eighteen years ago, when 
the spirit of enterprise in this employment became prevalent, n 
boat completely rigge<l, with a set of nets, cost L. 90. The prico 
has now fallen to L.70. This fishing has been found to be a pre- 
carious concern, and less lucrative than was expected. 

Lobster Fishing, — This fishing has been continued for many 
years on a small scale, on this coast and the shore of Cava. For 
a few years past, there has been but one boat with two men thus 
employed. During the fishing season, they carry the lobsters, 
weekly, to Stromness for the London smacks. Each night's catch- 
ing is kept in a chest, which floats in the Bay of Houton. The 
number taken annually is by no means considerable. A few small 
cod are occasionally got at no great distance from the shore, so 
are some haddocks and skate. Sillocks and kewths, being the 
coal-Gsh of one and two years old, abound along our shores, and 
in winter DEK>st of the men, near the shore, are employed in catch- 
ing them. They are delicate and wholesome food at this age. 
Produce, — It would be difficult to ascertain, with any degree of 

• There are row, (I84l,) nine such bouts.. 



ORPHIR. 23 

precision, the quantity of grain raised. Suffice it to say, that, be- 
sides supplying the demands of the parish, there are upwards of 
240 bolls of meal and grain frequently sent, annually, to Kirkwall 
and Stromness; andin plentiful years, the tenants of the large 
farms send grain to the I^ith market. The average price of oat- 
meal is 2s. per stone of 17^ lbs. Avoirdupois, and of bear meal. Is. 6d. 
Both sometimes sell for less ; but after bad crops, both kinds of 
meal are imported, commonly from Leith, to Kirkwall and Strom- 
ness, to which supplies even some of the farmers are obliged to 
have recourse. 

When there is an extraordinary demand for black-cattle, from 
sixty to seventy head are sold, early in the summer, chiefly to far- 
mers from Caithness, at a price from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3. A few 
horses are sold at the Lammas market at Kirkwall, commonly to 
Caithness people, at from L.8 to L, 10; and some, in rare cases, 
bring double this price. 

Kelp Manufacture, — When kelp was in demand, there were 
about seventy tons manufactured annually. The tang, on the same 
part of the shore, was cut only once in the two years. Only 
about twenty tons have been manufactured annually for some 
years past, as the price has been small, being only L. 5 per ton 
at market, whereas it used to be from L. 10 to L. 12. This is 
a great loss to the proprietors, and also to the tenants who were 
employed in the manufacture. This loss is on the increase, as the 
tang, which is not cut once in two years, is apt to be so completely 
torn from the rocks by the winter storms, that it does not vegetate 
again. 

Navigation. — There is no sloop belonging to the parish. Be- 
sides the eight herring boats, and one lobster boat, there are 43 em- 
ployed in taking sillocks, kewths, and other fish ; 52 in all ; they 
are also employed in carrying farm produce to Stromness. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Means of Communication. — The post crosses from Huna, in 

Caithness, to South Ronaldsay, where there is a post-office, and 

proceeds by a runner to Kirkwall and Stromness. There was no 

public road, by which a cart could pass, until about twenty years 

ago. Since that period, the statute labour has been employed 

in forming a public road ; and this has for some time pa^t been 

formed, and the greater part kept in a good state of repair. There 

is only one harbour, and it is situated in the Bay of llouton^ 



24 ORKNEY. 

where sloops and larger vessels lie in safety, and are protected by 
the Holm from south and south-east gales. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The church stands on a bay, on the 
eastern shore, upwards of a mile east of Houton Head. The 
manse is delightfully situated on a rising ground, about half a 
mile west of the church, and well sheltered by hills on the west 
and north. The church was built in 1829, and contains 574 sit- 
tings, the accommodation allowed by law, and is every way com- 
fortable. The sittings are all free. The manse was built in 1789, 
and is in a good state of repair. The glebe, with hill pasture, 
would bring L. 15 of rent annually. The stipend is L. 150, of 
which L. 34, ds. 8d. is paid by Government annually. The num* 
ber of Dissenters is considerable, being, by a late census, 107 
above fifteen years of age, and 142 below this age.^ They belong 
to the United Associate Synod« Part attend at Kirkwall, and 
part at Stromness. There is also one Baptist. 

The sacrament of the Lord's Supper is dispensed once a-year, 
in summer. The number of communicants is about 300, and 
about 100 attend on this occasion from neighbouring parishes. 
Collections are occasionally made for various purposes, and amount 
annually to from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2.f 

Education. — There are three schools ; one parochial, and two 
maintained by mortifications. The salary of the parochial school 
was, at the last augmentation, raised to L. 26. The fees, though 
fixed, are not demanded ; the master accepting, in place thereof, 
the gratuities, which may amount to from L. 5 to L. 6. The com- 
mon branches of education are taught, and the master has the 
legal accommodation. The Mortification schools were founded 
by natives. The first by Magnus Twatt, who lived and died in 
the service of the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company. He ap- 
pointed by his will the heritors and kirk-session patrons. This 
school has been in operation upwards of thirty years, and has a 
fund of L. 700 laid out on landed security. The other has been 
only two years in operation, and was founded by James Tait, who, 
after having been many years in Hudson's Bay, died in Strom- 
ness, soon after instituting the school. The sum left by him for 
this purpose is L. 100, and he appointed the kirk-session patrons. 

The Dissenters have increased in the same proportion a*^ the rest of the popu- 
lation, and are still about one-fourth of the popuktion, 184] 

t In 1840, L.8 were collected for the five schemes of the General Assembly, and 
L.4 were collected by subscription for cases of destitution. 



ORPHIR. 25 

This sum is lent on landed security, and the teacher receives the 
interest as salary. He is bound to teach for only one-half of the 
year, from October to April. lie continues, however, teaching 
the whole year, in consequence of the liberality of the people. 
James Tait also left L. 100 to the parish of Stromness, for the 
satne purpose. 

Till of late, there were a few elderly people who could not 
read ; but, strange as it may appear, some of them could answer 
the questions of the Shorter Catechism correctly. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of the poor receiving 
supplies is 15, and distributions are made twice a-year, in March 
and August As their circumstances are nearly equal, they re- 
ceive 4s. or 5s. each at each distribution. The weeklv collections 
amount annually to from L. 9 to L. 10. There is a fund of about 
L. 50 at interest, which arose from savings from the collections, 
when the number of the poor on the list was less; and a donation 
of L. 10 from Lieutenant James Robertson, a native. The poor 
are not forward in applying for parochial relief, unless when their 
case is urgent. 

Inns, — There are three licensed inns, two of which retail ale 

only, and the other ale and whisky. The last is sufficient for the 

accommodation of travellers. The others are rather tippling- 

houses, and do -not contribute to the improvement of morals. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The progress of improvement since the publication of the last 

Statistical Account has been considerable. Green crops have in- 
creased a little, and will be more abundant when inclosing becomes 
more general. Much of the pasture grass around the old cultivated 
fields might be broken up to great advantage ; but this cannot be 
done, till green crops are more extensively raised. Some improve- 
ment in this respect may be expected, as the farmers' attention is 
now in a great measure witlidrawn from the manufacture of kelp. 
Every tenant has the privilege of hill pasture. 

The whole extent of the parish, exclusive of the Island of Cava, 
is 1250 Scots acres in cultivation ; pasture, 1960; common, 6394 ; 
in all, 9604 Scots acres. The rental was ascertained, a few years 
ago, to be L. 575. 

It was long the practice of many of the young men to go to 
Hudson's Bay as labourers and mechanics, as carpenters, black- 
sn)iths, and brick layers. Few have gone in later times, though 
the wages have been raised. A labourer receives L. 16 a-ycar 



26 OUKNEY. 

annually, for the first three years, with maintenance, while em- 
ployed at the factories. A mechanic L. 25 a-year. The en- 
gagement is now for five years, and at the end of three years every 
one is advanced according to his merit. The great object was to 
save as much as might render his future days at home, easy and 
comfortable. 

Many of the young men also used to engage at Stromness for 
Greenland and Davis's Straits. There are only ten thus em* 
ployed, this season. 

The forming of the public road has been a great improvement^ 
so that carts are now in general use ; whereas, formerly, loads were 
carried on the backs of horses. The lately built cottages are much 
neater than the old ones. The division of the common is also an 
improvement, and has induced a few families to come from neigh- 
bouring parishes to settle where the ground may be cultivated. 

It is also pleasant to observe the importance given to education^ 
which will give the rising generation and their succeeding race a 
very great advantage over their forefathers. 

June 184 L 



PARISH OF STROMNESS. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. PETER LEARMONTH, MINISTER. 



I, — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The most probable derivation of the name is from 
Sironii signifying strong, and Nestt^ a point of land : in fact, the 
tide runs with considerable strength off the point of land which 
forms a part of the parish. 

Topographical Appearances. — The parish is pleasantly situat* 
ed on the south-western extremity of the mainland, or Pomona^ 
as it is sometimes called, and probably commands the finest 
scenery in the group of islands with which it is connected. The 
view from the manse, or from the hill above it, has been much ad- 
mired. The Atlantic Ocean, contemplated from either of these 
places, whether in the stillness of a calm, or in the awful grandeur 
of a storm, is an object of the most magnificent nature* The hill 



STUOMNESS. 27 

of Hoy, with the green island of Graemsay, which lies to the south, 
imparts a beauty to the scene, which, in clear weather, is often 
enhanced by the lofty mountains of Sutherland, which appear in 
the distance. 

Extent^ 8^c. — The length of the parish is about 5 miles : its 
breadth, df : and the square miles it contains, ]2|. The south - 
most point is in 58^ 56^ 50'" north latitude; northmost point, 
59° 1' 10" north latitude. It is of an irregular figure, and is 
bounded by the Sound of Hoy on the south ; by the parish 
of Sandwick, on the north ; by the lake of Stetiness a\)d an 
arm of the sea, on the east ; and by the Atlantic, on the west. 
The hills are situated on the north-west ; are naked and barren, 
being destitute of plantations. Still, they have their beauty. They 
rise above the level of the sea, to the height of from 100 to 400 
or 500 feet, — forming, at some places, a bold and elevated coast, 
on which the winds beat with tremendous fury, and often dash frail 
barks to pieces. There are various valleys, well cultivated ; and, 
being interspersed with meadow, they furnish hay for cattle in win- 
ter, and often compensate the deficiency of a scanty crop. 

There are no caves of any consequence, except one ; which has 
been rendered memorable from being the place where a ship* 
wrecked seaman was wonderfully preserved, during four days in 
the spring of 1834. This cave lies at the western extremity op- 
posite to Hoy Head, and is often visited by strangers since that 
event. It is called Johnson's cave, from the name of the seaman 
who was saved in it. Adjoining to it, and on the same line of coast 
towards Sandwick, the rock scenery is bold and romantic, afford- 
ing shelter and a safe brooding place for the numerous sea fowl 
which abound here. The only headland, called the Black Craig, 
is directly opposite to Hoy head, and is of great use to seamen in 
directing them to the sound of Hoy, which Hes between them — the 
only approach to the harbour of Stromness from the west. As this 
sound is of great importance to vessels, affording them a safe approach 
from the Atlantic to the harbour, to which, in stress of weather, 
they are frequently compelled to have recourse for shelter, — it may 
be proper to give a brief description of it. This cannot be more 
correctly done, than in the language employed by my predecessor, 
in his minute and interesting Statistical Account of this parish : 
" Along the west coast of Stromness, at one league's distance from 
the shore, there is 40 or 50 fathoms depth of water. There are 
no shoals in the channel of Hoy soimd, on the side next this pa- 



28 ORKNEY. 

risli, but two, which may be avoided by keeping two cable lengths 
from the shore ; one of these shoals is visible at two hours' ebb. 
As the coast can be seen at a great distance, and there are no 
shoals but these two, which are not dangerous, there are conse- 
quently few vessels wrecked on this coast. The velocity of the 
spring-tides in Hoy sound, is seven miles in the hour, that of neap- 
tides, three miles. It is high or slack water in Hoy sound at ten 
o'clock on the days of new and full moon, and in the harbour of 
Stromness at nine o'clock. The flood sets from the north-west. 
An hour before flood is perceived in the channel of Hoy sound, a 
stream sets from the north, along the west coast, keeping this side 
of the sound, and continues in this direction ; at half-ebb, another 
stream sets from the south, along the south side of the sound, and 
continues till high water. These streams, when known and at- 
tended to, facilitate the entrance of shipping into the harbour of 
Stromness." 

Since tlie date of the Old Account, it appears that the increase 
of wrecks has been considerable. A light-house is greatly need- 
ed for the guidance of vessels through the Sound of Hoy : and we 
are happy to learn that this has attracted the attention of Her Ma- 
jesty *s Commissioners. 

H. — Civil History. 
It may be mentioned, that the greater number of vessels which our 
enlightened nation has sent out to explore the world, and extend the 
knowledge of geography and the boundaries of science, have, in ge- 
neral, remained some days in the harbour of Stromness. The Dis- 
covery ships which were commanded by Captain Cook, on their 
return from that memorable expedition which proved fatal to that 
illustrious navigator, lay here two weeks ; and the officers presented 
some of the inhabitants with various curiosities, which they fondly 
preserve as precious mementos of friendship. Sir John Franklin, 
distinguished alike for his piety and heroism, both ingoing out and 
returning from his northern expedition, remained here for some time. 
This parish was also the first place where Sir John Ross planted his 
foot on British earth, on returning from his last northern voyage, 
when it was thought by the nation at large, that that gallant officer 
had perished in the expedition. 

Land-owners. — The principal land-owners are, Thomas Pollex- 
fen, Esq. of Cairston; William G. Watt, Esq. of Breckness. 
There are also Crown lands. The number of heritors altogether, 
is 78, 



STUOMNESS, 29 

Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers extend back to 
the year 1695; but they are neither voluminous, nor have they 
been regularly kept, — except under the former incumbent. 

Antiquities. — In the burial-place, there is the ruin of an old 
church, which probably was erected when Popery prevailed, or 
perhaps at a later period. Near it, there are the remains of a build- 
ing, which originally occupied a considerable space of ground, 
and is generally supposed to have been an establishment of monks, 
hence called Monk's House. About three-quarters of a mile to 
the west, stands a venerable building, which was erected by Bishop 
Graham, one of the last Bishops of Orkney under Episcopacy. 
Above the door, the bishop's initials, G. G., with the Episcopal 
arms, and the year of its erection, 1633, are inscribed. There 
are still tumuli to be seen in the parish. 

III. — Population. 
According to the Old Statistical Account, "in the year 1754, 

there were 1000 persons in the town of Stromness. In the year 

1794, there were 1344 souls, and yet the whole population is 

about the same as that given in 1754; from which, it appears 

that the population of the country has decreased, in proportion as 

that of the town had increased. By an accurate census taken in 

June 1794, the population is as follows:" 

No. of Houses. No. of Families. Males. Females. Total. 
Stromness parish, 184 184 346 449 796 

town, 222 ai2 493 851 1344 

Total, 40H 526 839 1300 2139 

Persons to a family in the parish of Stromness, nearly 4^. In 
the town of Stromness, nearly 4 to a family and 6 to a house. 
Proportion of males to females, parish of Stromness, nearly as 3 
males to 4 females. Town, nearlv 12 males to 21 females. The 
great disproportion of males 4o females in the town of Stromness 
is occasioned by the young men going abroad to various parts of 
the world ; to the Greenland fishery, Hudson's Bay, the coal 
trade ; and many are to be found in his Majesty's navy." 

In 1831, the Government census gave the following results : — 

Males. Females. Inhabited Houses. 
Stromness burgh of barony, 2236 940 1296 385 

parisli, 708 308 400 123 . 

The population is as follows, at present : — 

Number of people residing in the town of Stromness, . 2242 

Landward part of the parish of Stromness, .... 760 

The yearly average of births for the last seven years, . 80 

deaths for the last seven years, ... 50 

marriages for the last seven }cars, . . 18 



30 ORKNEY. 

Tlic average number of persons under 15 years of age, • . 965 

betwiit 15 and dO, * . 745 

d0and50, . . 686 

50 and 70, . 496 

upwards of 70, . . . .110 

Number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 or upwards, 7 

unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 65 

Unmarried women upwards of 45, ..... 90 

Number of families, . *..*.' * ' ^^ 

Average number of children in each family in which there are children, nearly 4 

Numtwr of inhabited houses, ...... 500 

houses uninhabited, or now building, . . . 18 
insane, 2 ; fatuous, 10 ; blind, 4 ; deaf, 2 ; dumb, 2. 

Notwithstanding the peculiar temptations to which the peo- 
ple of this parish are exposed, from the great influx of shipping 
and other circumstances, they are, upon the whole, a moral peo- 
ple. They are most regular in their attendance in the house of 
God ; and, though they come far short of that standard which 
the word of God prescribes, and many of them are indifferent to 
their eternal interests, there are still not a few who are alive to the 
great realities of eternity ; appreciate highly their precious privi- 
leges, and study to adorn the doctrine of God their Saviour in all 
things, by maintaining a life and conversation becoming the Gospel. 

At a former period, smuggling existed to some extent, with its 
demoralizing effects ; but now it is rare. 

IV. — Industry. 

Number of males employed in agriculture as farmers, 

as cottars. 
Farm servants, male, 22 — female, 22, 

Number of males employed in orersecing straw plait manufacture. 
Manufacturer of rope, .... 

Numlier of males employed in retail trade or in handicraft, 
Number of wholesale merchants, capitalists, bankers, professional persons, and 

other educated men, .... 

Number of female servants in town. 

Agriculture. — 

We believe the parish contains of standard imperial acres. 

Of this the arable land is, say . . . . 

Infield pasture capable of improvement, 

Undivided common, ...... 

The undivided common is capable of very little improvement, 
being mostly hill and moss; and there is much of it, that has been 
rendered incapable of cultivation, by the surface being removed 
from it for fuel and litter, — a practice which still prevails. 

Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land per acre is 
10s. Near the town, the inhabitants pay L. 2 for grazing a milk 
cow. 

Wages^ §'c. — The rate of labour varies, according to the kind of 

work, from Is. 4d. to 2s. 6d., without maintenance, for farm-la- 

3 



• 


87 


• 


43 




44 


• 


7 


• 


1 


• 


191 


>ns, and 


• 


40 


• 


66 




8160 


1865 




908 




5387 






.8160 



STROMNRSS. 31 

bourers and country artisans. Price of an iron plough, L.t2, 2s. ; 
of a small cart, L. 4, 4s. 

Comparatively little attention has been paid to agricultural im« 
provement : the land is constantly cropped alternately with oats 
and bear, with only as much in potatoes as supplies the family* 
This must necessarily tend to impoverish the soil, and render it less 
productive. The leases being, in many cases, only from year 
to year, — the smallness of the farms, the wretched steadings, and 
the want of enclosures, — all combine to operate against the occu- 
pier as well as the proprietor* Indeed, there are many farmers 
who do not entirely depend upon the produce of their crops for 
paying their rent ; for they are often obliged to seek in the pro- 
lific sea, that subsistence which the earth would yield, were great* 
er care taken of it, and a better system of culture practised. 

Quarries. — There is a slate quarry on the west side of the parish, 
from which, it is observed, in the former Account, that from 30,000 
to 40,000 slates were annually sold. ^^ They are strong, thick, last 
long, and are the best in the county." Slates are still taken from 
this quarry ; but, though they are better adapted to the climate than 
Easdale slates, they are in general not so much used, forming 
rather a weighty roof. There are no proper stone quarries. The 
stones which are used in the erection of houses are quarried from 
the shore, and conveyed to the town in large boats. Some years ago, 
a Company commenced working a granite quarry near the town, 
with the intention of shipping for a proper market ; but, though 
the granite was thought of a superior kind, the company, from want 
of capital, did not proceed with the undertaking. 

A lead mine was wrought, eighty years ago ; but the ore was not 
in sufficient quantity to defray the expense, and remunerate the 
worker. 

Fisheries. — During the three last years, a few enterprising indi- 
viduals have endeavoured to establish a herring-fishing station at 
Stromness ; and, though they have not been so successful as could 
have been wished, they are still resolved to persevere. Should 
they succeed, their undertaking will tend greatly to promote the 
prosperity of the town, and be of essential service to the fisher- 
men, as it will enable them to remain at home, instead of soias 
to other stations in the islands, — which must be attended with 
considerable expense. In the months of May and June 1837, 
there were about 2000 crans taken* 

There are, also, some boats employed every season, in the 



32 ORKNEY. 

months of May and June, in fishing lobsters. At an average, for 
the last twelve years, there have been ll,6t^2 lobsters shipped 
annually for the London market, by Gravesend smacks, which call 
here twice a week during the fishing season. 

Some sloops engage in the cod fishing, — though this fishing is 
not carried on, nearly to the same extent as in some of the other 
Orkney Islands. - 

Manufactures, — Before the duty was taken off barilla, there 
was a considerable quantity of kelp manufactured ; but since the 
price has fallen so greatly, it scarcely remunerates the proprietor ; 
and the consequence is, that very little is now done in the manu- 
facturing of that article. Whether this will ultimately be ad van* 
tageous or disadvantageous to the country, is a question upon which 
a diversity of opinion prevails. We only remark, that proprietors 
evidently placed more reliance than they ought to have done, upon 
the manufacturing of that precarious article, and thereby neglected 
the improvement of their lands, which would have afforded them a 
more permanent benefit. 

There are a few straw plait manufacturers, who employ a num- 
ber of women intlre town as well as in the country. This manu- 
facture has been, for some time past, upon the decline ; and, being 
at all times dependent upon the caprice of fashion, has lately af- 
forded a scanty subsistence to the many young females who totally 
depend on it for their support. They are now allowed to plait 
in their own homes, which has been found more conducive to their 
health and morals, than doing so collectively, in the houses of the 
manufacturers, which was the original custom. — There is a small 
rope manufactory, where ropes of various kinds are made, both 
for the shipping and for country use. From the former Account, 
it appears there was a considerable quantity of linen and woollen 
cloth manufactured. This business has now wholly ceased here, 
being superseded by the perfect machinery now in use. 

Navigation. — The shipping belonging to Stromness has of late 
years greatly increased, and is at present in a very prosperous 
condition. The kind of vessel which is preferred is the schooner, 
which is found best suited for the trade in which it is employed. 
The owners seldom or never insure their vessels, and manv of 
them have succeeded well. The number of vessels belonging to 
the town is 23 ; 2 of them brigs, 1 8 schooners ; 3 sloops. Their 
tonnage amounts to 2132 tons. 

The following table, which the captain of the Coast-guard in 



SrROMNCSS. 



33 



Stromness has kindly handed to me, shows how much this com- 
modious harbour is resorted to by all kinds of vessels. 

Years. Months. No. of Tessels. Tonnage per month. Tonnage yearly. Remarks. 

To every 
one hun- 
dred tons, 
allow four 
men and 
one boy. 



1835, October, 


- 36 


6,G71 


Nov. 


. 24 


3,304 


Dec. 


- 7 


901 


1836, January, 


13 


1,348 


Feb. * 


. 10 


1,606 


March, 


. 42 


6,927 


April, 
May, 


. 83 


20,123 


- 19 


2,657 


June, 


. 34 


3,655 


July. 


. 34 


3,666 


August, 


. 51 


6,579 


Sept. 


- 28 


2,670 


1836, October, 


- 36 


6,365 


Nov. 


- 37 


5,127 


Dec. 


. 15 


2,474 


1837, Januar\% 


- U 


1,070 


Feb. 


- 13 


2,029 


March, 


- 10 


3,047 


April, 
May, 


- 31 


5,479 


- 24 


3,092 


June, 


- 17 


2,290 


July, 


- 32 


2,543 


August, 


. 71 


6,819 


Sept. 


- 62 


6 J 82 


October, 


. 49 


7,947 


Nov. 


. 43 


6,684 


Dec. 


- 29 


4,401 


1838, January, 


- 23 


2,419 


Feb. 


- 3 


379 


March, 


- 24 


4,801 


April, 


. 49 


11,117 



60,207 



46,517 



The Honourable Hudson's Bay Company's ships call here on 
their outward passage in the month of June, and take with them 
a number of men to be employed as labourers, artisans, &c. 
The average number of men who have here been hired yearly 
to go out to their settlements in North America, for the last four 
years, is from 35 to 40. Under the sanction of this Company, 
missionaries are sent out by the Church of England, and Wes- 
leyan Methodists. It would be of great consequence could a mis- 
sionary or two be sent out by the General Assembly of our church, 
as there are so many men there who belong to Orkney, by whom 
the boon would be greatly prized. 

For a long period, a number of whalers have called here to ob- 
tain their full complement of men for the whale-fishing at Davis' 
Straits; but lately, the number has considerably decreased. There 



ORKNEY. 



34 ORKNEY. 

have been engaged, for the last seven years, on an average, 292 
men annually. The number at one time was much greater* 

V. — ^Parochial Economy. 
The only town in the parish is Stromness. At the beginning 

of last century, it is observed in the former Statistical Account, 
*' it was an inconsiderable village, consisting only of half a-dozen 
houses with slated roofs, and a few scattered huts, the first inha- 
bited by two gentlemen of landed property, and two or three small 
traders, the last by a few fishermen and mechanics." In 1719, it 
was assessed by the burgh of Kirkwall, and continued tributary 
thereto till May 1743, when it sought to effect its freedom, and 
happily succeeded ; for, by a decision of the Court of Session 
confirmed by the House of Lords, it was fully emancipated, and 
thus became instrumental in obtaining freedom for the other villages 
in Scotland which had formerly been tributary to royal burghs. 

It has since rapidly increased in population and in trade, which 
is to be traced in a great measure to the safety and commodious- 
ness of the harbour, — on the west of which the town is situated. 
There are few places which afford a better or more beautiful site 
for the erection of a town. It is composed chiefly of one street, 
which extends three-quarters of a mile on the side of the harbour ; 
but the houses have been erected without any regular plan. The 
only object which the first proprietors appear to have had in view, 
in the erection of their houses, was to secure access to the harbour. 
Till very lately, the street was not sufliciently wide to admit of a 
passage for carts and other vehicles. Some improvements, how- 
ever, have lately been made upon the town, and especially upon 
the street. It still admits of many, and never can possess that 
regular appearance which its*fine situation so well deserves. 

In the year 1815, Stromness was constituted a Burgh of barony ; 
and two magistrates, with nine councillors, have since held autho- 
rity in it ; but having no funds, and there being no jail nearer than 
Kirkwall, their power is greatly curtailed. 

Means of Communication. — There is regular communication 
between this parish and Kirkwall three times a-week, by a gig 
which conveys the mail. Last June, a mail-coach commenced 
running, daily, in place of the gig. It was an interesting as well 
as a novel scene, to see a regular mail-coach in ultima Tliule, It 
is, however, a matter of regret, that such encouragement was not 
given as to enable the proprietors to continue running the coach 
during winter. 



STROMNESS. 35 

The distance betwixt Stromness and Kirkwall, the only towns 
in the county, is about 1 5 miles ; and of late the road has been 
considerably improved. There is a post-office in town, and a 
south mail via Kirkwall arrive Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 
when not detained at the Pentland Frith, which is often the case, 
especially in winter.* 

Enclosures are comparatively rare ; which, to a great extent, re- 
tards agricultural improvement. Cattle, horses, and swine, which 
are numerous, being allowed to go at large afler the crop is ga- 
thered in, greatly injure the fields in a climate subject to rains 
during so many months in the year. It also prevents the regular 
rotation of crops, which is so indispensable to proper farming. 

The estate of Cairston is, however, an exception. There is a 
considerable part of it well inclosed : it is also farmed on the 
most improved system, by the proprietor, Mr Pollexfen. It pos- 
sesses many beautiful fields, which yield hay, potatoes, bear, and 
oats, of a superior quality. In the vicinity of the town, a few pro- 
prietors have made some inclosures, which have increased the value 
of their property. ^ 

Harbour. — The harbour is one of the most commodious in the 
north of Scotland, and forms a safe retreat to all sorts of vessels. 
It is frequented during the winter and spring months by many ves- 
sels in the coasting-trade, as well as foreign vessels, which find in it 
a safe anchorage, and are well sheltered from the west wind, (which 
generally is most boisterous,) by a hill above the town. It lies on 
the east side of the parish, and is approached by the south, is about 
a mile in length, and somewhat less than half a mile in breadth. 

There are two beautiful little holms or small islands which 
bound the harbour on the east, and render the anchorage still more 
safe and secure. 

Upon the south side of the harbour, on the property of Ness, a 
patent slip, with the necessary apparatus, has been lately erected, 
capable of receiving a vessel of 400 or 500 tons. This was greatly 
needed, from the number of vessels which pass through the Pent- 
land Frith, and are often compelled to take refuge in the harbour, 
and to obtain the repairs which their disabled state requires. This 
slip was erected in April 1886 : and in the course of the three 
succeeding years, thirty vessels were received upon it and repaired, 
— their tonnage, 3368 tons. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situate in the town, 

* There is now a daily mail. 



36 , ORKNEY. 

the most convenient site for the mass of the population. The 
greatest distance from the extremity of theparish, is about five miles* 
It was erected in the year 1814. It is in a tolerable stale of re- 
pair ; but, being much exposed to violent storms, the roof almost 
every year requires repair. It has accommodation for 1200. There 
are forty free sittings, and two long seats, which extend along 
the greater part of the middle passage. The manse was erected 
in the year! 780. It underwent repair during the incumbency of 
ray predecessor, and before I entered it in the spring of 1833. 

The glebe, including what is occupied by house, garden, and a 
meadow, is about ten acres in extent ; if let, its rent would amount 
to about L.6 per annum. 

The stipend is the minimum, with L.8, 6s* 8d. for communion 
elements. 

There is no other church in the parish, except a small Secession 
church. The minister receives L.120 per annum, and L. 12 for 
communion elements. 

Divine worship is well attended both in the Established Church 
and in the Dissenting Chapel. ^ 

There are 1000 persons in communion with the Established 
Church. Of that number, about 900 communicate each time at 
the sacrament of the Lord's Supper, which is dispensed twice in 
the year. About 400 are in communion with the Secession. 

There is, in connection with the Established Church, a Bible 
and Missionary Society ; average amount of yearly contributions 
about L.20. There is also a Society of a similar nature in con- 
nection with the Dissenters. Of the amount of its contributions I 
am not aware. 

In general, we have three or four collections during the year for 
benevolent purposes, — in behalf of Sabbath schools and the As- 
sembly's schemes. Average amount about L.14. 

Education, — There are five schools taught by males and five by 
females in the parish. Eight of these schools are in the burgh. 

There is a parochial school ; but so situate, and so provided with 
accommodations, that its benefits do not extend to the town, nor 
to other populous districts of the country. We deeply regret to 
say, that, in this parish, the grand design of this excellent paro- 
chial institution is, in a great measure, defeated, and the young 
are deprived of that advantage to which they are entitled by the 
law of the land. 

There are two subscription schools in the town. The other 



STROMNESS. 37 

schools depend upon the fees received. The five female schools are 
in the town, and the fees afford very inadequate support to the teach- 
ers. In the parish school the branches taught are, reading, writing, 
and arithmetic In the subscription schools, in addition to these 
branches, Latin, Greek, French, and mathematics are taught. 
The teacher of the other school in town has a class for Navigation, 
which is greatly required here. In the female schools, the com* 
mon branches, viz. English, writing, arithmetic, and' sewing are 
taught; and, in one or two of the most respectable, music and 
drawing. 

The parochial teacher has the minimum salary. The subscrip- 
tion school teachers receive about L.50 per annum. 

We believe there are few betwixt the years of six and fifteen 
who cannot read. In general, the parents, however poor, mako 
every efibrt to send their children to school for a short time, to be 
instructed in the elementary branches of education, especially 
reading. With respect to the fatherless, in most cases which 
have come under our notice, some benevolent person is found 
willing to get them instructed in reading. 

We feel called upon to say, that there are few places in Scot- 
land, with such a popuLation as Stromness, where there is such need 
of an efficient endowed school. There being no endowed school 
in the town, and the fees of the subscription ones being high, the 
poor are precluded from the benefit of proper instruction ; and when 
it is known that there are numerous widows (whose husbands have 
perished at sea), left with their large families helpless and de- 
pendent, unable to provide for their sustenance, far less to aflbrd 
them a good education, it must be evident, that, were a proper 
school with an endowment established, it would confer an invalu- 
able blessing upon an interesting but long-neglected community. 
It is hoped that something may be done for this place by the Ge- 
neral Assembly's Education Committee. The Sabbath school 
connected with the Established Church was instituted in the spring 
of 1830 ; and was attended at first by betwixt 200 and 300. It 
has since continued to increase and flourish, and for the last seven 
years has been attended by fully 300 scholars on an average. 
There are in ail twenty-six classes, which are instructed by male 
and female teachers, selected from the most pious and best inform- 
ed of the elders and members. 

A Sabbath school, numerously attended, is also regularly kept 
in the Dissenting church. 



38 OBKNEY. 

Library. — A public library was established, nearly twenty years 
ago. It consists of a number of valuable books, and the leading 
reviews of the day. For some years past, novels have been ex- 
cluded, and works of a more solid character substituted in their 
place* The annual subscription is 7s. 

There is a Sabbath school library in connection with the Esta- 
blished Church, and also one in connection with the Dissenting 
congregation. 

Friendly Society. — Till very lately, a Friendly Society existed 
in the town, but it was some years ago dissolved. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor per- 
sons upon the roll who receive quarterly allotments, is 85. The 
highest allowance is 4s. per quarter : but in general 2s. or 2s. 6d. 
is the sum allotted quarterly. In addition to this, however, some 
allowance is made during winter for fuel ; and in case of sickness or 
old age, the elder of the district where the pauper resides is em- 
powered to give something additional. Our sole dependence for 
supporting the poor, is on the amount of collections made at the 
church doors on Sabbath, and the fees for proclamation of banns, 
and the use of mortcloth. The ordinary collections for the last 
eight years amount at an average to about L. 50 annually ; and 
extraordinary, to about L.20. In general the people are so very 
poor, that they evince no reluctance to seek parochial relief. 

There is no prison in Stromness. This greatly weakens the 
authority of the magistrates, and is unfavourable to the morals of 
this populous district. Were an efficient jail erected, it would in- 
timidate the lawless, and be an effectual means of preventing crime, 
and the lesser delinquencies. 

Inns. — In town, there are 4 inns, kept by respectable persons, in 
which good accommodation will be found, and every attention paid. 
In town, the number of houses in which spirits and beer are sold 
is 27, the number in which beer only is sold, 7 ; in all 34. 

Natural History Society. — Some time ago, a Natural His- 
tory Society was instituted in town, the object of which was to 
form a museum, and to collect specimens of the islands' produc- 
tions, birds, fishes, shells, &c. Considerable success has already 
crowned the laudable undertaking. A number of curiosities, do- 
mestic and foreign, have already been placed in the museum. A 
respectable collection of the birds, &c. of Orkney has been made ; 
and scon, it is hoped, the museum will be an object worthy of 
being inspected by the tourists who may visit this remote island. 



STUOMNESS. 39 

The first annual Report has been published ; it contains a list of 
the curiosities, &c. which have been presented to the Institution. 

Fuel, — Peat is the fuel most generally used, and is procured 
from a moss in the parish. The inhabitants of the town are sup- 
plied in a great measure from the islands, where the peats are of a 
superior quality. The more wealthy and respectable families use 
coals, which are brought from Newcastle and Sunderland. 

MiSCELLANEOTTS OBSERVATIONS. 

Smce the former Statistical Account was published, many im- 
provements have taken place ; for instance, the increase of carts 
from 12 to 140, and of ploughs in the same proportion, demon- 
strates that there must have been some advancement made in agri- 
cultural improvement. Still, much remains to be done ; and un- 
less a better system of farming, and a regular rotation of crops, be 
adopted, more substantial and comfortable farm-steadings erected, 
and the lands to a certain extent enclosed, agriculture must remain 
stationary, and the peasantry cannot be raised to that respectabi- 
lity which is so desirable, and so conducive to the interest of the 
proprietor, and comfort of the tenant. The number of horses in 
the parish is 204; of ploughs, 91. 

The burgh has greatly increased in wealth and prosperity, dur- 
ing the last forty years, from the regular increase of the shipping. 
If the herring-fishing succeed, and a station be established, it will 
tend still further to promote the prosperity of the place. 

Drawn up 1839. 
Revised July 1841. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

HOY AND GRiEMSAY. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF KIRKWALL. 

THE REV. GAVIN HAMILTON, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Situation and Extent — The parish is of a triangular form, 
bounded by the parish of Walls on the south side; the parishes of 
Orphir, Stennis, and Stromness upon the east and north sides ; and 
the Atlantic Ocean to the westward. The parish from north-west 
to south-east is about 9 or 10 miles long, and in general is about 
6 miles broad. It may be called a very hilly or mountainous dis- 
trict One of the hills in particular is so steep in many places as 
to be almost inaccessible. 

The land or arable ground in this place is generally wet and 
spongy ; the soil light, and better calculated for grass than for grain. 

Grsemsay is a very small island, — a mile and a half in length, 
and a mile in breadth. Its population in 1831 amounted to 225. 

IL — Civil History. 

There are no antiquities in the parish, besides the large stone 
mentioned in the Old Account. 

Parochial Registers. — These have been regularly kept since the 
year 1799. 

Land-owners. — The land-owners are, Robert Hedd)e,Esq.; John 
Balfour, Esq. ; Rev. G. Hamilton ; and Harry Cruickshank, Esq. 

III. — Population. 

Amount in 1801, . 223 

1811, . 472 

1821, . 508 

1831, . 546 

The amount of the population at present is 647. 
During the last three years, there have been no illegitimate 
births. 

IV. — Industry. 
AffricuUure.-^The average rent of land per acre is L.1, 5s. 
Real rent of the parish, L.800. 



SANDWICK. 41 

There have been no recent improvements in the agriculture of 
the parish which call for notice. Wood is entirely wanting. 

Fisheries. — The herring-fishing is carried on in this parish to 
some extent, — seven boats being employed in it. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
EccUsiastical State, — The whole population is connected with 

the Established Church. The stipend is the minimum. The 
glebe is five acres arable in extent, and as many in pasture : value, 
L.10. The manse Was built in 1798, and is at present in a good, 
habitable condition. 

Education, — There are three schools in the parish : and none 
more are required. The salary of the parochial teacher is the 
minimum, and his fees do not exceed L.5 per annum. 

Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid 
is 10. The average yearly amount of contributions for their re- 
lief, L.4, 10s. : all of which is from church collections. 

July 1841. 



PARISH OF SANDWICK. 



PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. CHARLES CLOUSTON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The name Sand wick is no doubt derived from the sandy 

bay, which is the principal one on the west coast between Strom- 

ness and Birsay, wick signifying a bay. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The extreme length of the parish is 
fully 6 miles : but various calculations and measurements convince 
me that its mean length is about 4^ miles, and its mean breadth 
about 3f. It is bounded by Birsay on the north ; by Harray and 
the loch of Stenness on the east ; by the same loch and Stromness 
on the south ; and by the Atlantic on the west. 

Hillsy Sfc. — This parish cannot be denominated mountainous, 
nor even hilly, when compared with the neighbouring ones, being 
more flat and cultivated than any of them ; but a range of hills 
forms its west boundary except at the bay ; and from these the 



42 OUKNEV. 

liills of Gyran and Lingafiold* stretch eastward near its south side, 
and those of Vestrafiold and Yonbell at its north boundary. These, 
as well as the lower lands and valleys remote from the sea, slope 
gently eastward towards the loch of Stenness, forming part of that 
extensive amphitheatre in the centre of the west mainland, the 
area of which is little elevated above the loch. Vestrafiold, or the 
west hill, is the highest, and may be about 300 or 400 feet above 
the level of the sea. A little east of the Sandy bay are eminences 
or low sandy hills, called Sandfiold and Kierfiold, which seem to 
be formed in a great measure of the sand blown from the bay by 
the west wind, which is prevalent and violent. The latter of these 
hills was formerly considered beautiful for its verdure, as it was 
covered with grass to the summit, but for some years it has been 
forced to submit to the plough, and I suppose it is more profitable, 
though less pleasing to the eye than formerly. 

Coast^ Cavesj ifc, — The west coast extends about four miles and 
a half, and is precipitous at all places except the bay, the highest 
part being between 200 and 300 feet perpendicular. There are 
many caves on the coast that form the favourite retreat of pigeons. 
The softer portions of rock being washed away much more quickly 
than the harder, there are many deep indentations, or " geoes," as 
they are called, where the soft parts have given way, and in some 
cases the hard portions still remain as insulated pillars, within a stone 
throw of the precipice, forming very picturesque objects ; but the 
most remarkable thing produced in this manner is the Hole of Row, 
which is a high natural arch through the peninsular crag forming 
the south side of the bay, caused by two whin dikes, occurring so 
near each other, that the intervening strata have been pulverised 
and washed out by the sea, as high as its waves had power to do 
so. Immediately south of the arch, the stones on the top of the 
precipice are arranged like those on a beach by the force of the 
waves, and, on the top of one of these crags, I once picked up a 
lump of India-rubber covered with barnacles. Not far from Row, 
on' the nearest part of the coast, is an immense rock, which is well 
known to have been carried a considerable distance by the sea ; it 
is 16 feet long, 6 broad, and 3 thick, and weighs, according to my 
calculation, about 24 tons. 

Meteorology. — I have kept a register of the weather for the Ijist 
twelve years ; the latter half only in this parish, and the former 

• Fiold incaiiK hill. 



RANUWICK. 



43 



in the mange of Stromness, where there ia do great difierence in 
the clitnate. As the temperature and pressure of the atmosphere, 
the direc^on and force of the wind, with the state of the weather, 
were noted twice a-day, at ten a. m. and ten p. m., during all 
that period ; it would occupy too much space to insert the whole of 
that register here ; but the following tables, showing the mean state 
of the barometer and thermometer far each month and year, may 
be interesting, as applicable to Orkney in general, and must be 
pretty accurate, being formed from extensive data. 




44 



ORKNEY. 



Table showing the mean monthly and annual temperature, fpoD) 
Jd27 till 1838, inclusive, with the mean temperature of all 
these twelve years, which may be considered the mean tempe- 
rature of our climate. 



1827, 
1828. 
1829, 
1830, 
1831, 
1832, 
1833, 
1834, 
1835, 
1836, 
1837, 
1838, 



Jan. 

35.09 
40.22 

36 14 

37 96 
36.70 
41.49 
37.14 

38 90! 
39.75 
39.14 
38.82| 
33.56 



Feb. 



35.09 
38 82 
39.46 
36.71 
37.71 
4222 
38.37 
40.21 
3948 
37.46 
39.32 
31.31 



Mar. 



38.59 
41.45 
40 69 
41.83 
42 65 
42.22 
38.68 
41.11 
41.20 
39.61 
36.54 
38.64 



April. 



43.83 
43.60 
41.51 
44.80 
44.88 
46.24 
4a2S 
43.05 
42.25 
41.39 
39.13 
39.23 



May. June- 



49.16 
45.30 
49.99 
50.77 
48.70 
47.31 
51.43 
48 75 
46.01 
47.77 
45.24 
44.75 



July. 



5a40 
56.04 
53.43 
51.66 
56.13 
54.73 
51.60 
56.02 
51.76 
52.03 
51.06 
48.20 



.Month. 37.90 3S.01 40.26 42.76 4793' 53. 17 55 20 5472 52.431 48.761 42.681 41.281 46.25 



55.61 
58.25 
57.12 
56.14 
57.86 
54 25 
54.73 
58.03 
53.57 
52 51 
50.56 
53.86 



Aug. 



55.04 
57.26 
54.36 
53.14 

56.07 
52.40 
56.89 
54.77 
51.83 
5a 75 
52.28 



Sept. 



54 331 

55 41 
50.21 
5a46 
54.73 
52.61 
5234 
52.90 
53.01 
48.35 
51.58 
50.28 



Oct. 



50.95 
54.19 
45.56 
49.41 
51.73 
49.38 
49.20 
48.07 
45.70 
45.91 
49.36 
45.77 



Nov. 



43.11 
45 53 
41.40 
42.76 
40.50 
45.43 
4158 
44.01 
45.68 
40.93 
41.59 
39.71 



Dec 



4a24 

43.24 

39.51 

36.33J 

44.07 

41.40 

39.28 

45.17 

40.44 

38.57 

42.44 

41.781 



An. 

46.45 
4a27 
45.78 
46 24 
47.88 
47.77 
45.83 
47.92 
46.13 
44.62 
44.94 
43.26 



Of meteors, the polar lights are the most remarkable here, 
* being often extremely brilliant and beautiful. 

The west or south-west wind is understood to be the strongest, 
and the stone and lime on that side of a house most exposed to it, 
are generally the first to give way. A gale from that quarter is 
frequently prognosticated by the great swell of the sea, which ragos 
even during a perfect calm. On this subject, I take the liberty of 
repeating an observation, which I have made elsewhere.* " This 
great swell, or * sea,' as it is here called, generally indicates a storm 
in a distant part of the ocean, which may reach Orkney a day or 
two afterwards ; hence, on the west coast, this great swell is con- 
sidered a prognostic of west wind. From this we infer, 1^^, that 
the agitation caused by the wind on the surface of the ocean tra- 
vels faster than the wind itself; and, 2c^, that the breeze begins 
to windward, and takes some time to reach the point towards 
which it proceeds to leeward, which tends to overturn the usually 
received theory as to the cause of winds. Sometimes, however, 
the distant slorm which causes this agitation does not reach these 
islands at all." In proof of this, I may mention, that, in August 
] 831, from the 9th to the Idth inclusive, the great swell of the sea 
is remarked in my register, every day being also marked calm, with 
the barometer high and steady. Afterwards, however, I learnt that 
on the 7th and 8th of that month, there was a gale in latitude 57^ 
21' north, longitude 13^ 15' west, which damaged a vessel that 
put back to Stromness to repair; and on the 1 1th it began at Bar- 

* Guide to the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, p. C29. 



SANDWICK. 45 

badoes, and devastated that and other West India islands ; but the 
gale never reached Orkney, though its effects on the sea were so 
conspicuous. 

Climate, — Our insular situation prevents the extretlies of tem- 
perature that are felt in continents of such a high latitude, the 
surrounding ocean tempering the heat of summer, and the cold of 
winter ; so that for more than twelve years, the thermometer has 
only once fallen so low as Id"" of Fahrenheit, and the snow does not 
lie so long here, as in the more inland parts of the south of Scot- 
land, or, I believe, the north of England. Indeed, the mean tem« 
perature of every month was above the freezing point, except that 
of February 1838. Our mean annual temperature is 46^ 25', and 
the mean height of the barometer 29.640, as will be seen from the 
annexed tables ; but the nature of our climate will be more cor- 
rectly understood by comparing the mean temperature of each 
month, as there stated, with that of other places. The highest hill 
commands an extensive view, not only of the west mainland, but 
of part of the north and south isles, and from it, and other 
elevated grounds, may be seen the hills of Hoy, terminat- 
ing in stupendous precipices ; and, in calm and clear weather, 
those of Sutherland in the distance, stretching out towards 
Cape Wrath, add much to the beauty of the scene ; but during a 
storm from the west it is awfully grand. The huge accumulations 
of water that then roll after each other, foaming with terrible vio- 
lence to the shore, impress the mind with their irresistible power, 
and might well give a stranger a feeling of insecurity ; and, when 
they dash themselves against the precipice, it seems half sunk, for 
a time, like a wrecked vessel amid the waves ; sheets of spray are 
thrown far up into the air, and carried over all the country, making 
springs a mile from the coast brackish, for some days, and encrust- 
ing every thing with salt, even fifteen or twenty miles off. I am 
told by those living a few hundred yards from the spot, that the 
floors of their cottanfes are shaken bv the violence with which 
the waves strike the crags; and I have seen innumerable sea insects 
alive on their summits, and even a limpet adhering to them after 
such a storm ; also numerous fragments of the slaty stone, some 
of them a foot long, which had been whirled into the air, and had 
penetrated six inches into the soil in falling. 

Our climate, in short, is more remarkable for dampness and 
storms, than for cold ; the atmosphere being often loaded with 
sea spray in winter, and moistened with the constant evaporation 
in summer. Pulmonary and rheumatic complaints seem to be pre- 



46 OUKNEY. 

valcnt, owing to this peculiarity of the climate, and our sudden 
and frequent changes of weather. Some cases of cramp may also 
be ascribed to the dampness; and a neighbouring clergyman, who 
is afflicted with loss of voice, has, more than once, been immedi- 
ately cured by the air of Edinburgh. Dyspeptic complaints are 
very common among the peasantry, but they are probably caused 

by poor diet. 

Hydrography. — The Atlantic flows up into the bay on the west 
side, for about half a mile, and the Loch of Stenness, about a mile 
on the east, leaving little more than two miles at one place, be- 
tween these two great waters. The Loch of Skaill olr Aith, which 
is nearly a mile long, and half that breadth, lies nearly in this 
space ; and the Loch of Glumly, which is more than half of these 
dimensions, is a little south of that line. These lochs are of no 
great depth or importance, and contain no fish except eels ; but 
tjio two latter turn mills, on their passage to the sea and Loch of 
Stenness, and they relieve the tameness of the scenery, — their 
tturfuce, when smooth as a mirror, forming a striking contrast to 
the troubled ocean hard by ; and the sunset in fine summer even- 
ings is most splendid, as seen from the manse, when the rays 
are reflected from the sea, and also from one of the lochs. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — Having been requested by neigh- 
bouring clergymen to include their parishes in the description of 
the natural history of my own, some branches of it will be found 
more general in their application to other parishes, than would 
otherwise have been necessary or proper. This is particularly 
the case with the following remarks on geology. 

The rocks of this parish and the adjoining district, I shall de- 
scribe under the four following heads, viz. I. Granite ; II. Slates 
or flagstones; III. Sandstone; IV. Trap rocks.* 

I. Granite. — The district where this rock occurs has been 
lately ascertained to be much more extensive than it was for- 
merly thought to be ; foi' I have traced it, in company with the 
Messrs Anderson of Inverness, from Graemsay to this parish. 
The town of Stromness occupies the southern end of this tract, 
which is about one mile broad, and extends from the Island of 
Graemsay, which is the southern boundary, in a northerly direction, 
for about six miles, till it passes out at a precipice in this parish, 
on the west coast, where the Atlantic washes its base, and veils 
it from the eye of the geologist. The sound which separates 

• Professor Jameson, in his *« ^Mineralogy of the Scottish IsleSi*' gave the first sketch 
of the geology of the Orkney Islands. 



SANDWICK. 47 

Graemsay from the mainland, and is less than a mile broad, in- 
terrupts the examination of this rock ; but there can be no doubt 
of its being continued under water. In some places, it has no 
appearance of a slaty structure ; in others, it has so distinctly, 
though not regularly stratified, and is properly gneiss ; and at one 
place, discovered by Professor Jameson, it passes into mica slate, 
containing garnets. Hornblende rock is also found in this tract, 
but there is no extensive exposure of it. In general, it consists 
of a grey granite or gneiss, which is traversed by veins of quartz 
or felspar, but more frequently the latter, and exhibits the usual 
phenomena of such a district, in the interruption and shifting of 
the veins. A few years ago, L. 300 were laid out in quarrying 
some of this gneiss, and cutting it into paving-stones for the Lon- 
don market, but it did not succeed. In one place, the workmen 
came [n contact with a rock containing a little galena and pyrites, 
but, with this trifling exception, it contains no ores nor useful mi- 
nerals. Between this rock and the schist, there is a belt of con- 
glomerate, at such places as are exposed, of 50 or 100 yards 
broad, containing pieces of gneiss, quartz, and felspar, imbedded, 
from a microscopic size to that of a turnip. This belt contains 
nothing worth remarking, except small veins of galena at one 
place, which are of no value. It gradually loses the conglomerated 
structure ; and the succeeding strata, though they sometimes al- 
ternate, generally assume more of the character of those that rest 
on them, till at last they pass into 

II. Sandstone Flag^ or Secondary Slate or Schist, — This rests upon 
tlie ^nglomerate, and dips from it wherever I have been able to find 
it in contact. The best exposures on the west side of the granite 
are on the north shore of Graemsay, point of Ness, in Stromness, 
and south-west coast of this parish, where the strata slope west. 
On the east side of the granite, it is only the strata in immediate 
contact with it that dip east; for, in the course of 100 yards, they 
gradually dip more in conformity with the general dip of the coun- 
try ; but they may bo seen dipping east on the shore of Graemsay, 
and at the point of Garson, in Stromness ; and again they dip 
north-east, at the Burn of Cairston, and at the north-east boundary 
of the granite in this parish. 

Of this slate, almost all the Orkney Islands are composed, or 
at least most of the low land and shelving shores, while many of 
the surrounding hills and precipices are formed of the superimposed 
sandstone. It forms a great part of Stromness, and almost all Sand- 
wick and Birsay. It can hardly be described as one rock, as it is 



4fl ORKNKY. 

in fact a succession of argillaceous, siliceous and calcareous slates or 
schists of different thickness, hardness, colour, and composition ; 
but the most common, and that which is most esteemed for building, 
i^ when recently quarried, of a dark blue colour, like a hard slate 
clay, and breaks at determinate angles, diamond-shaped, thus giv- 
ing the builders easy work ; and some quarries afford excellent paving 
stones of four or five feet square, perfectly smooth . ♦ By exposure, 
however, they acquire a rusty reddish or yellowish colour, from the 
decomposition of the iron with which most of rhese rocks are impreg- 
nated. These strata may be found at all inclinations, from hori- 
xontul to perpendicular, but in general they dip to !he west, at an 
anirle about 20®. They are generally in thin strata, and in one 
place are quarried pretty extensively for roofing slate, which is not 
ffood enough to export. In part of this quarry the slates are 
beautifully marked by dendritic iron pyrites. The texture is ap- 
parently homogeneous, but when exposed long to the action of the 
weather the softer parts are worn away, and the harder portions 
project much, thus demonstrating its compound nature. This is 
i)articularly the case along several of the precipices that bound 
the west coast, where the effect of the weather is increased by the 
exposed situation, sea-spray, &c. and forms the figured stones 
which have been considered so curious by many ; and indeed the 
forms that they assume are sometimes exceedingly fantastic, being 
in the shape of concentric circles, ovals, squares, or triangles, ac- 
cording to the original mixture of the stones in the different stra- 
ta, but most frequently the figures are spread irregularly on the 
surface like hieroglyphics. In some places they alternate with strata 
of a hard, dark limestone^ which is nearly the colour of the strata be- 
tween which it lies, and is burnt for lime, but not extensively, as the 
distance we have to bring our coals renders it expensive. In other 
places, the strata have a bituminous appearance on the surface, or 
little cavities which arc filled up with a soft bitumen or petroleum, 
occasionally glance coal ? This has excited some hope of dis- 
covering coal in this county, which would be an incalculable 
benefit to all the north of Scotland ; but the whole county is so 
intersected by the sea, and there are such plain and beautiful ex- 
posures of all the strata along our shores, that it is hardly possi- 

* The resemblance of these and the Caithness slates to some of the so-called grey- 
wacke slates of the south of KngUnd was remarked many years ago by Professor 
Jameson. He was in the practice, in his lectures, of pointing out the close resem- 
blance or identity of these slates and red sandstones with the slates and sandstones in 
the Pentland range at Edinburgh, which lie immediately below the coal formation, 
and which he held to be members of the old red sandstonci— a formation belonging 
cither to the undermost group of the secondary class or the uppermost of the transi. 
tion class. 



SANDWICK. 4 9 

ble for coal to be present in any quantity, without its croppings or 
outgoings being perceived somewhere. 

Fossil 6sh and vegetables occur in several places, even among the 
strata within half a-mile of the granite. All the species of these ich* 
thyolites are far 'from being completely collected and known yet; 
but it is believed that they prove these strata to be identical with the 
slates of Caithness, and of the southern shores of the Moray 
Frith. Flinty slate and chert, passing into lydian stone, abound 
in these slates. Sandstone, some hundred yards thick, lies in im- 
mediate contact with the conglomerate on the north end of the 
primitive district on the west coast of the parish. It has that dia- 
gonal arrangement of the layers called false stratiBcation. It is 
much more hard and crystalline than the new red sandstone, of a 
dark grey or brown colour, and is the only good quarry for mill- 
stones in this countv. 

Veins of galena are not uncommon, and one near the manse of 
Stromness has been worked for about 100 yards, but long since 
forsaken, as a speculation which would not pay. It is here asso- 
ciated with common heavy spar, and a mineral is found in small 
quantity along side of it, composed of carbonate of strontia, and 
sulphate of barytcs, which has been described by Professor Traill 
as an entirely new mineral, and named Stromnite, or Barystrontia- 
nite. The other minerals that this part of the formation contains 
are of no consequence, viz. quartz or rock crystal in veins, calca- 
reous spar in veins. Iron and copper pyrites, the former, most 
commonly in veins or nodules and heavy spar, occur sometimes of 
considerable tliickness. 

Ill, Sandstone. — This rock lies upon the slates, and is by most geo- 
logists considered the old red sandstone. It occurs neither in this pa- 
rish, Stromness, nor Birsay, to which my observations on the slates 
refer ; but to understand the position of these rocks, it is necessary 
to trace them to Hoy, south of Stromness, where this sandstone 
rests on the slates. There it rises to the height of 1600 feet 
above the level of the sea, in the Ward Hill. It varies much in 
colour, but is generally gray, red, or brown ; and is disposed in 
strata, which are often so soft that it is not much used for building. 
Government, however, employed it for erecting martello towers, 
which are fast crumbling away. This sandstone is easily decom- 
posed by the action of the sea, and forms numerous caves and fan- 
tastic forms along the precipices where it occurs, of which the in- 
sulated rock, called the Old Man of Hoy, that is so conspicuous 
from Caithness, may be given as an instance. This singular rock 

ORKNEY. i> 



60 ORKNEY. 

is formed of the same strata as the precipice from which it is dis* 
joined ; and as this is nearly 1000 feet perpendicular, it affords a 
magnificent exhibition of the strata. The top is red sandstoDCi 
and the base on which it rests amygdaloid. In this precipice, I 
found, about twenty years ago, a fine vein of manganese ore, from 
which beautiful specimens may be procured, and in the other side 
of the island, that species of iron ore called brown hematite, is 
found in such quantity, that it was at one time worked. 

IV. Trap Rocks. — These occur as greenstone, basalt, porphyry, 
and amygdaloid. All the rocks formerly noticed are frequently inter- 
sected with whin dikes, from one to ten feet thick, which are some* 
times shifted and contorted, but generally run directly west by com- 
pass, (the flag having a seam in that direction), till they disappear 
under the bed of the ocean. In the space of eight miles along 
the precipices on the west coast of Stromness and this parish, I 
have counted eighteen separate dikes of this kind, and, including 
Birsay, I have no doubt there are more than two dozen. The 
strata of the slate in contact with these dikes are generally con- 
torted and pulverized, and easily washed away, leaving narrow 
inlets or ** geoes." One of these, nine feet thick, cuts through 
the north-west extremity of the granite, and another bounds on its 
south-east side a mass of amygdaloid, containing zeolite, calcare- 
ous spar, green earth, &c. in Walls. The only place where I 
know of its overflowing the secondary rocks is one which I disco- 
vered about twelve years ago in the west side of Hoy, where there 
is a bed of it fully 100 feet thick, and, I believe, several miles in 
extent, in the middle of the sandstone. Near the same bed, on 
the sea shore of Rackwick, I also found a fine vein of fibrous gyp- 
sum, an inch and a-half thick. Porphyry also occurs ; and Dr Hib- 
bert observed an interesting spot of it near the granite in Cairston. 
V. Alluvial Rocks. — The alluvial formation of Orkney is not par- 
ticularly interesting; but we have plentyof clay, in most placesabun- 
dance of peat, though there is little in Sandwick, and, in many dis- 
tricts, marL Bog -iron ore is very common on some of our hills ; and 
along our sandy bays, nature frequently erects a barrier of a sort of 
indurated sand, apparently formed by the mixture of siliceous parti- 
cles with fragments of shells, which serve for cement. In our peat- 
mosses, roots of large trees are often dug up, and they have also 
been found in Sandwick Bay, where they are generally covered by 
the ocean. Hazel-nuts, deers' horns, &c. have likewise repeatedly 
been found imbedded in our peat, — and this makes it probable 



SANDWICK. 51 

that forests have formerly grown in these islands, where there is 
nothing now that deserves to be called a tree, except in gardens. 

Soil. — The soil of Sandwick is of very different kinds in different 
places. Immediately east of the bay, it is nothing but sand, which 
blows about with the wind. In other places, there is a poor yellow 
clay, formed by the wasting of the clay flag ; and our best soil is 
a rich black clayish loam. These are mixed together in infinite 
proportions ; but there is no depth of mossy soil or gravel. The 
clays particularly rest on a retentive rocky subsoil, many parts of 
which would be much improved by draining. 

Zoology. — The rarer species of animals only being wanted for 
the Statistical Account, I would not be justified in inserting a 
complete list, for which I must refer to Anderson's ^^ Guide to the 
Highlands and Islands," where one will be found, embracing those 
of Mr Low, Drs Barry, Traill, Neill, and Mr Forbes, to which I 
have nothing important to add. I may, however, mention, that 
rabbits are very numerous in the sandy parts of this parish, and 
hares, which were only introduced into Orkney a few years ago^ 
are now beginning to show themselves. Thousands of gulls, of 
different species, with scarfs and other sea birds, as well as com- 
mon pigeons, build on the shelves of our precipices, and some hun- 
dreds of the pewit, or black-headed gull, on a little artificial holm 
in the Loch of Skaill. A few pairs of wild swans remain some 
months in winter in the Lochs of Stenness and Glumly. Wild 
geese visit us every spring, and several species of duck are found 
in all our lochs in considerable numbers. There are no trout or 
other fish of any importance in our lochs ; but in the Loch of 
Stenness, trout, flounder^, and various other species are got ; and 
there is great variety in the Atlantic, on our west shores ; however, 
it is only when the sea is smooth that boats can get out to fish. 
Lobsters are caught in the bay for the London market. 

Botany. — The plants in this parish are not very different from 
those in the neighbouring ones, except Hoy, where there is a con* 
siderable number of alpine plants on the Ward Hill. The Scotch 
primrose (Primula Scoticajy and vernal squill (Scilla vernajj grow 
abundantly in this, and most parishes of the county, with some 
more plants that are rather rare in the south of Scotland. But, 
for a catalogue of these, I must refer the botanist to the works of 
Drs Barry and Neill, and my own contribution of 83 new species to 
the Orkney Flora in Anderson's " Guide," which would occupy too 
much space to republish here, as they contain altogether 545 species. 

It is, however, in cryptogamous plants that the Flora of Orkney 



52 



ORKNEY. 



is particularly rich ; and we have the pleasure of adding several to 
the Flora of Scotland, besides the Chara aspera, new to that of 
Britain, Dr Pollexfen has paid particular attention to the sea-weeds ; 
and the addition which I am now enabled to make to former lists 
of these, prove his diligence in collecting, and acuteness in dis- 
criminating, — for though I have also picked up a few of these 
when accidentally at the sea shore, yet, for the majority of them, 
I am indebted to him. Without deducting a few that might be 
subtracted from former lists, but, taking Barry's at 11, Neill'sat 
13, and mine at 44, there are still 65 new species to be added to 
the sea- weeds, making the Orkney algae amount to 133 species, 
and its flora to 610; and yet much remains to be done, particu- 
larly in cryptogamous botany. It is deemed proper to publish 
the complete list of algae, including the old and new, on account 
of the rarity of some, alterations in nomenclature, &c. 

I. Alojb Inarticulatjb. Nitopbyllum bonnemaisoni II. Axjom CoKFBiivoiors. 
Sargassum yulgare 



W^0mm0^*'mmmm^>m0m0k 



baccifeniDi 
Halidrys siliquosa 
Fucus vcsiculosus 
»»#*»*.#^ ceranoides 
scrratus 
Dodosus 
canaliculatus 



wmtmmmmm^^ 



«l«««WIP«WW>A««»W>^ t 



^00mm0i^0mtm^0m0'00>0<^m 



W'^0*mmmmm0m^mm0m>0 i w »n» 



»imm0im00 »i»[^»^#<w^> 



«#WW^M^^* 



Himautbalia lorea 
Lichina pygmaca 

Alaria esculcnta 
Laminaria digiiata 

bulbosa 
.w« saccharina 

phyl litis 

fascia 
Dcsmarcstia ligulata 

Dichloria viridis 
Sporocbnus pedunculatus 

Chordaria flagelliformis 
Chorda filum 
,^»,,m,,m,m lomentaria 
Aspcrococcus fistulosus 

Punctaria plantaginca 

III I----I- tunuissima 
Striaria attcnuata 



90i0i0^0m0>0'mmf'^0>^mmm 



mm0m0if>^^^0^^^ ^* 



mmm0^im0^f>m0i^^'0vmm 



mi^mm0mim<mm0m0<^^0mm 



laceratum 
Rhodonietiia bi6da 

laciuiata 

palmetta 

palmata 

reniformis 
Plocamium coccineum 
Odonthafia dentata 
Ubodomela lycopodloides 

Bonncmaisonia asparagoidesu 
LaurcDcia pinnntifida 

» ■».. dasyphylia 

Chylocladia clavellosa 

Gigartina purpurascens 
.>>.,>.,^....^^ confervoides 
plicata 



«l^««M«i#W>*M*i#tM«WtM»tM 



»*»»*W»»»'#>»K<» ^»1W>I^^^» 



«WWW>#WKM«i«<^«>M*«IM^M* 



W«*W*«M#«M«MM^M»#IM«IM» 



#««^Mr««#WWi#l*WWWWW 



#<^#«^*<»<»<*s>*»^*w»#»**»#<*^» 



^M0W*wt#W 



w ^ m m<0im^0'm0^^i^0»0m 



*^^w> »^»w»»^<w»tf » m 



Choiidrus niammillosus 
^^^^ — ,.«^ crispus 
»>.»>»»>».«»»., membranifblius 
»»w. ..».».»>. JBrodiaci 
Fhyllophora rubens 
Spiisrococcus coronopifoliui 
Gdidiuni corneum 
Ptilota pliiniosa 
Iridaea edulis 
Dumontia filiformis 



Catanella opuntia 
Dictyosiphun fccniculaccus Porpbyra laciniata 
Dictyota dichotoma 
Furcellaria fastigiata 



»>»<»>*W»r»'*»*» * m m^ 



^m^*m00>0i0>0*0w<0>0>0^ 



Polyidcs rotundus 
Dtilesseria sanguinea 

,.^r sinuosa 

...»»i«..» bypoglossum 

^ ..,»..„..,i ruscifolia 

Kitophyllutn ocellatura 



vulgaris 

linearis 
Ulva latissima 
....«,. lactuca 
.i*..^ Liiica 
Knteromorpha intestinalis 

^00*0tnm^ » 9 v* *t*» mm 0*^*^ vOlYiprCSSa 

9» 9 » v »» w »t»»*<m»r » i w »«i iM crccta 
»r>w»>«i<»» <»'<i«<»*»'»»««««» ciamrata 
firyopsis plumosa 



Cladostephus spongioaus 
Sphaccliu'ia cbirrosa 

Ectocarpus littoralis 
silicufosus 
tomentosus 
Mertcnsii 
Polysiphoiiia urceolata 
parasitica 
nigrcscens 
fastigiata 
elongata 
byssoides 
Dasya cocci nea 
w^^^^.,*,^ Hutchinsias 
Ceramium rubrum 

diaphanum 
^ ciliatum 
Griffithsia multifida 
^r i*<^<» i^»M»#i»»<wi»w» vortti II lis 

Callithainnion plumula 
J'urneri 
arbuscula 
lanosum 

pdyspermum 
granulatum 
thuyoides 
corymbosum 
pediceliatuin 
Kothii 
Conferva tortuosa 
«*«• iniplexa 
melagonium 
»* «»«■ <»<»«» «» flsrca 
.,«,«.^^*,^ fucicola 
«.«»«..«^..^ gloincrata 
«.«*«.«.«.^^ Ilutchinsiae 
rupcstris 
refracta 



^i^^mi^tm^mmm^m^ w^wm m wm^^ r «^* 



»^»^g p'^'mm>*i0^0>mm^^m^m^^w>0 ^ >m 



^M*IMM^ntfWWWWIMiM«^«WWW«*<M* 



mT f^ni — r r r nnf ■ i » i r < irr i r i< 



»»^*W»»*^»»iW»W><W<»Ww^M><^rf^ 



SANDWICK. 53 

Confenra centralis Mesogloia multifida Batrachospermum xnonili- 

CVothrix coufervicola Gloiosiphonia capillaria forme 

III. Ai^iB Gloiocladb^. Trichocladia Tcrmicularis Corynephora marina 

Mesogloia Hudsoni .^^ viri-scens 

There are no forests in this parish; but some trees have been 
planted within the last fifteen years, and the kinds that seem to 
succeed best are, the plane, ash, mountain-ash, elm, and willow. 

II. — Civil History. 

The only plans or surveys of this parish of any importance, in ad- 
dition to those of the county in general, are those of the townships, 
in which the Crown holds property, made by Messrs Granger and 
Miller, and lodged in the sheriff-clerk's office. 

l4aHd'0wner8. — The property is divided into very small portions 
here, as in the neighbouring parishes. William Graham Watt, 
Esq. of Breckness, holds about a third, and resides on it, cultivat- 
ing a considerable part. The Crown holds about a fifth ; and the 
remainder is held by nearly seventy other proprietors, most of 
whom cultivate their own little farms. 

Parochial Registers, — The date of the earliest entries in our pa- 
rochial register, of birlhs is 22d September 1728, and in that of 
marriages, 20th April 17*27. They have for some years been kept 
and preserved with great care ; but they do not appear to have been 
so formerly. 

Antiquities. — In the former Statistical Account it is mentioned, 
that, " on the west coast of the parish of Sandwick, close by the 
sea shore, is to be seen the ruins of a large building, which yet 
bears the name of the Castle of Snusgar ;" also that several tumuli 
had been opened, one by Sir Joseph Banks, containing three stone 
chests, each enclosing a human skeleton, in different positions, 
and bruised bones, teeth, hair, beads, &c. ; and others containing 
smaller stone chests, enclosing urns, in which were found ashes, with 
fragments of bone, or ashes and fragments of bone without urns. 
To these antiquities, a residence of six years enables me to add 
the following. 

In the township of Yeskenaby, not far from the boat noust^ ♦ 
are the ruins of a small church, with an enclosure about it like a 
churchyard ; and in several other places, a kirk green or burying 
ground. Between the top of Lingafiold and the loch of Clumly, 
are the stones of Via, which are worthy of the antiquarian's notice, 
and which are supposed to be a cromlech or heathen altar. In- 
deed, the figure of that, with the head stone in the hundred and 

* A place for boats. 



54 ORKNEY. 

fiftieth plate of the Encyclopaedia BritaDnica, published in 1797, 
might pass for a representation of this monument before the dis- 
placing of its pillars.* 

On the hill north of Quoyloo there is a standing stone, and also 
a curious collection of large and ancient stones, to which the name 
Haly Kirk is still applied ; and a gentleman residing in that 
neighbourhood informs me, that he recollects one of these, now 
prostrate, supported by those that are still perpendicular, thus 
completing that resemblance to an altar, which its name seems to 
indicate. Not far from the same spot, about 200 yards north- 
east of North Dike, and about 500 east of the summit of Ves- 
trafiold, are the remains of an enclosure, 800 yards in circumfe- 
rence, and, I believe, of great antiquity, many of the stones be- 
ing large, and set upon edge, particularly five or six on the north 
side. 

About sixty yards nearer the summit, is a quarry, with enor- 
mous blocks of stone detached, so similar to the standing stones of 
Stenncss ip size and shape, that I suppose this to be the bed from 
which they were taken, as I know of no other quarry from which 
they could be procured, and no other purpose for which people 
would detach such blocks as these, from 13 to 18 feet long. 
The nearest circle of the standing stones is about six miles from 
this spot ; but, though they might be considered geographically in 
this parish, they are ecclesiastically within the boundaries of Sten- 
ness. I may, however, mention, that numerous remains of anti- 
quity, probably connected with them, may be seen at the adjoin- 
ing boundary of this parish, and more particularly about a mile 
north of them ; and within the west comer of the dike of Was- 
bbter is a circle, which seems a miniature of that in Stenness, with- 
out the stones, surrounded by a ditch about 12 feet broad, and 6 
feet deep, 219 yards in circumference outside of the ditclu 

There are in the parish at least five broughs, which their name 
and situation prove to have been, of old, places of defence. Two 
of these are on promontories at the precipice in Yeskenaby, 
one jutting out in the Loch of Clumly, and two in the Loch of 
Stenness; each of these, not an island, or surrounded by water, 

* The slab of Via is I foot thick, 5 feet 10 long, and 4 feet 9 broad. The four piU 
lars under it are each about 3 feet long; and the head stone 3 feet 9 by 2 feet 9 on 
the surface, and 1 foot 4 thick. It is placed nearly in the centre of an old circular 
enclosure, 275 paces in circumference, with a small tumulus on the south side of it« 
which was lately opened, but nothing found in it except a parcel of large stones. 



SANDWICK. 55 

being separated from the land by a ditcb, which is still distinctly 
visible. 

I have observed at several places vitrified cairns, similar to 
those in Sanday, &c which Dr Hibbert supposes to have been 
produced by beacon fires. I know not that ours have the same 
origin ; for since that celebrated antiquarian called my attention 
to the subject, I have, in several cases, seen similar vitrified matter 
produced by burning a whole stack of sandy peats in the open air, 
during a strong breeze, which is sometimes done to obtain the 
ashes for manure. 

During last summer, a man, who built a habitation for himself on 
the common between this and Isbister, in Birsay, found what seems 
to have been a Pict's house, in a knowe from which he took the 
stones. It consisted of a chain of four circular cells, connected 
together by passages too narrow and low ever to have formed an 
abode for men.* It seems more probable that the rubbish above 
the cells was the ruins of their residence, and that these were used 
as cellars or places of security. 

Barrows or tumuli are particularly numerous in Sandwick. I 
believe there are more than one hundred, though it would be 
neither easy nor useful to count them. Eight of these, situated 
on the common, have been opened during the last year. A mi- 
nute description of each would be tedious ; but a brief account 
of the most important, which I opened in company with most of 
the other ofiice-bearers of the Orkney Natural History Socie« 
ty, must be interesting to the antiquarian. The first, which was 
the largest of a numerous cluster between Voy and Lyking, was 50 
yards in circumference, and about 1\ feet high. It was formed of a 
wet adhesive clay. On reaching the centre, we found a large flag 
which formed the cover; and on raising it up, the grave appeared 
as free from injury, and the pieces of bone as white and clean, as 
if formed only the preceding day. At its end, which lay north-east 
by east, was an urn inverted, shaped like an inverted flower-pot; 
and at its other end, about a hat-full of bones, unmixed with ashes, 
which had been burnt and broken small, none being more than 
two inches long and one broad, covered by a stone of an irregular 

* This building was unfortunately demolished before I heard of it ; but the fol- 
lowing dimensions, which I had from recollection, are probably pretty correct Cells, 
4 feet in diameter, and 4 feet high ; passages, 2 feet wide, 2 feet long, and 3^ feet 
high ; walls, 1 foot thick, or more, according to the size of stone, only built smootli 
inside, covered with large flags, the lowest across the passage, and the highest across 
the middle of the cell, with one between. 



56 ORKNEY. 

shape, about one foot across. It was sprinkled with a peculiar 
mossy-looking substance, of a brown colour, and white ashes, 
which seemed, from the smell when burnt, to be animal matter. 
The surface of the urn is dark, not unlike burnt cork, and seems 
to be rude earthen-ware, into the composition of which, bits of 
stone enter liberally. It contained nothing that we could per- 
ceive, and soon fell to pieces ; but I put them together with Ro- 
man cement ; and it is now in the Society's museum, with part of 
the bones.* 

The next, in size, of the group of tumuli, was 34 yards in circum- 
ference, about 6 feet high, and contained six separate graves. 
The two nearest the centre seemed the principal ones. A large 
flag rested against the covers of these on the east side, jutting up 
about a foot above them, f The space under this flag was quite 
empty. On removing it and the two horizontal covers on which 
it rested, the two principal graves were exposed to view. The 
first was formed of a double row of upright flags, on all sides ex- 
cept the south, next to the second, where there was only a single 
row, and small pieces substituted at the corners, j the space inside 
was filled for 9 inches with clay, and the corners of this and the 
second were also cemented with it. Between the cover and clay 
flooring, was a vacant space, about a foot deep, into which some 
fine sand had penetrated or fallen from the cover in wasting, and 
sprinkled the floor. On removing this, we found a small stone, 
which covered a cavity in the clay, 1 foot in diameter, and 9 inches 
deep, containing the bones burnt and broken, as in the first tumu- 
lus, and some little pieces of charcoal. It is worthy of remark, 
that in a tumulus lately opened in Circassia, Mr Spencer disco- 
vered a few fragments of unglazed terra cotta vases, containing 
charcoal also.§ 

The second graven was nearly one foot south of the former, and 
consisted of four flags, set up on a floor of flag, with a heap of 

• The cover wm 5 feet 7 in length, 8 feet 2 broad, and 34 inches thick. The bot- 
tom of the grave was on the level of the surface of the earth, and it mcaisured S feet 
long, 2 feet broad, and 1 foot 10 deep. The part of the urn that bore to be lifled up 
measured 1 foot in diameter at its mouth, 5 inches inside and outside of bottom, and 
9 inches high ; the bottom I inch thick, and the sides barely }. 

t It measured 5 feet long, 4 feet 2 inches broad, and 3 inches thick. 

:^ 'ilie first grave was 1 foot 8 inches square inside, the outside Hags were 6 inches 
higher than the inside ones, and those on the west and east sides very thick. Out- 
side they were supported by some lumpy stones and the clay. 

§ Spencer*s Travels in Circassia, Vol. iL p. 299, third edition. 

y This was I foot 10 inches, by I foot 3 inches across the middle, but far from 
sQiiarCi and 2 feet deep. 

3 



SANDWICK. 57 

bones, similar to those in the first. The third was at the south 
side, close by the west corner of the second, and was very simple, 
being merely a cavity in the earth, covered by a stone ou which 
we were treading, and being so low, without any upright flags 
about it, it escaped observation till we were about to leave the tu- 
mulus. It contained pieces of bone of a larger size than the for* 
mer two, and a few pieces of a vitrified substance, like a parcel of 
peas, with a vesicular internal structure, and of a whitish appear- 
ance, as if it were vitrified bone. The other three resembled the 
more common graves that are generally found in the lesser tumu- 
li, differing from each other in size and structure, but all more or 
less filled with ashes, of a reddish colour, apparently of peat, in- 
terspersed with very small bits of bone.* 

All of these graves lay with one end north north-east, except 
the sixth, which was directed north-east. This resemblance be- 
tween the fourth and first is worthy of notice, — that it also^consist- 
ed of a double row of flags on all sides except the south, next to 
the fifth, where it was single. 

I do not think^that it would be either interesting or useful to 
describe minutely the graves in all the tumuli that I have ^seen 
opened during the last year, or heard of being opened previously ; 
for though they vary a little in size, shape, and direction, there is 
a strong similarity between them, the largest being '2 feet 9 inches 
by 2 feet, and the smallest 1 foot 2 inches by 10^ inches ; and 
the direction of those that I have had an opportunity of observing, 
varies only two points of the compass from north by east, to north- 
east by north, and they all contained peat ashes mixed with bits 
of bone. I leave it to those, more competent to the task, to specu- 
late on these facts. One thing, however, seems evident, that these 
tumuli are the burying-places of a people who burned their dead, 
and it seems probable that the rich were buried in the larger and 
more costly tumuli, and that .their bodies were burnt in such a way 
as to prevent their remains from being mingled with peat ashes : 
and the bits of charcoal found in one of the graves seem to indi- 
cate that this was used as the fuel, at least on some occasions, 

* The fourth grave ]ay on the east side of the first, with a space of three feet be- 
tween ; internally, it was 2 feet 10 inches long, by 2 feet 3 indies broad, the inner 
row 6 inches below the level of the outer ; 9 inches below that, was a small cover- 
stone, and at the bottom, 6 inches of peat ashes, with bits of bone. The fifth lay two 
feet south of the last, and was about 3 feet 5 inches, by 2 feet 3 inches. It was form- 
ed by a single row of flags without any cover. On the top was 6 inches of clay, and 
below that, about 9 inches of aslies and bone. The sixth lay three feet from the north* 
west corner of the first, and was the rudest of all. It measured 2 feel by I CooV.*lvcv<c^«(i» 



68 ORKNEY. 

while the poor were interred in the smaller tumuli, along with the 

ashes of the peats, which consumed their remains. 

An ancient and interesting grave was also found last year, on the 

farm of Downby, by the proprietor, from the plough accidentally 

coming in contact with its cover stone. It contained a human 

skeleton, which could not be got out entire, but which seemed to 

have been buried in a sitting posture, and at the right hand lay a 

mallet head of gneiss, finely marked with dark and light layers, 

and beautifully polished, now in the museum in Stromness. The 

head lay north-west by north.* 

III. — Population. 
The amount of the population at each census, taken at the 

four last periods, was 970, 922, 930, and 973, or, including 46 

seamen, 1019 ; but when I took an account of my parishioners in 

1833, visiting every cottage, I found it amounted to 1088^ and, 

according to the present return for this Account, it is 1056. 

The yearly average Dumber of births for the last seven years isy - 31 ^ 

deaths, - - 18 

marriagcSff • - 7$ 

llie number of persons under 15 years of age, - 413 

between 15 and SO, • 292 

30 and 50, - - 245 

50 and 70, - - 119 

upwards of 70, - - 17 

Number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, 

including the Crown, - - - 2 
Number of unmarticd men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 

years of age, - - 20 

Number of unmarried women upwards of 45. - 96 

Average number of children in each family having them, - 4^ 

The number of insane, 2 ; fatuous, 5 ; blind, 2 ; deaf and 
dumb, 2 ; total 1 1 . 

The number of families with children, 164, without them, 38, j 
total, 202. 

Gaelic has never been spoken here ; and I know of no customs, 
games, or amusements, peculiar to this people. 

If the work of cleanliness has begun, it is yet far from perfected* 
In their persons and dress, I believe there has been some improve- 

* This grave was 4 feet 2^ inches, by 2 feet 11 inches, and 2 feet 9 inches deep, 
fot-med of flag only about an inch thick. The cover was 6^ feet long, 4 feet 2 inches 
broad, and 64 inches thick. The mallet is 3 inches long, about 6 in circumference 
at the thickest end, and has a hole quite through, apparently for a handle, about 
seven -tenths of an inch in diameter. 

t The marriages registered last seven years are 56, but 18 females and 4 males 
belonged to other parishes : deducting the latter, who would probably take their 
wives to their own homes with them, we obtain the above number. 

^ In many cases, there are females living in cots by themselves, which makes the 
number of nmllics appear greater. 



SAXDWICK. 59 

tnent in this respect, but it must be very limited, till they have 
houses that are clean, in which it would be possible to keep their 
persons so. At present, most of them are wretched hovels, with 
holes in the roof instead of chimneys, which permit that part of 
the smoke to escape, that is knowing enough to find it ; but most 
of the soot attaches itself to the roof and rafters, whence it de- 
scends again on the inmates. 

Another hole in the roof, about six inches square, and often 
without glass, is the substitute for a window ;' and cows, calves, 
pigs, geese, and fowls, share the benefit of the peat fire, placed on 
the middle of the floor for the accommodation of all. Their 
food is as simple as can be imagined. Oat and bear-meal, with 
milk in various forms, potatoes, cabbage, and sometimes fish, is 
their ordinary diet ; and most indulge in a little flesh and ale at 
Christmas, or other holidays. Of their poor cots, many are only 
tenants at will, and on this account, as well as others connected 
with their state of vassalage, though many have peace and plenty, 
I cannot say that all enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts of 
society and civilization, as so much depends on their landlord. 

The general character of the people, intellectual, moral, and 
religious, is, 1 believe, much like that of their neighbours, who 
have been placed in the same unfavourable circumstances, living 
in a parish united to another, with public worship only once a 
fortnight, and no resident clergyman. I have the gratification of 
noticing in the sequel their late improvement, in these respects. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture, — Much of the information required under this 

branch of inquiry, I expected to have procured from the tenants ; 
but it is proper to explain, that many of them having been prohi- 
bited from divulging the secret of their real rent, and quantity of 
land, I have been under the necessity of extracting the truth from 
other sources. More than half of this parish has lately been di- 
vided under a process of division of run-rig, and of this part, the 
number of acres of arable and pasture land, with the comparative 
value of each, has been exactly ascertained ; and knowing the 
proportion between the valued rent of this part, and that which 
remains undivided, I am furnished with materials from which to 
calculate the number of acres of arable and pasture land in the 
whole parish, with more precision than formerly ; and the know- 
ledge of the real rent of a part, amounting to more than L. 60O, 
gives me also materials for calculating the real rent of the whole^ 



60 ORICNCV. 

• 

which I believe to be nearly L. 1600, but ivbich I shall at present 
calculate at L. 1500; and I have pleasure in acknowledging the 
politeness of Mr Graham, the Crown Chamberlain, and the sur- 
veyor, in procuring most of the documents. The valuation of 
the parish, more than twenty years ago, is far below the present 
value, some tenants paying more than double of the rent then 
stated. 

No. of imperial acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, • • 2294 

vhich never have been cultivated, and which remain con- 
stantly waste, or in pasture, is • • 9224 
in a state of undivided common, or water, • 5202 
under planted wood, about .... 1 

What portion of this might, with a profitable application of ca- 
pital, be added to the cultivated land, is a matter on which there 
must be a great variety of opinions ; but the practiciibility of doing 
so is yearly proved, by the cultivation of some part of it. 

lient of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre is 
10s , and the average rent of pasture land about 2s. per acre. 

Bate of Wages. — The following is the rate of wages. A plough- 
man per year, L. 7, or more if he acts as grieve, with board, or 
equivalent in rheal, &c. ; a male day labourer gets Is. and a fe- 
male 6d. without fare ; female servants in gentlemen's families 
have L. 3 a-year. For harvest, men get L. 1, lOs. and females 
L. I. Masons may be got to build dikes at Is. 3d. a- day, and 
1 Id. a fathom for building and quarrying a dry stone dike, 3 j feet 
high, with coping. More perfect masons obtain 2s. a-day for the 
best kind of work ; carpenters get 2s. a-day and food. 

Prices, — The prices of different articles of raw produce, -or 
country manufacture, are, fowls, 8d. each ; eggs, 3d. per dozen ; 
beef and mutton, about Martinmas, 2d. per lb., but dearer at 
other seasons; butter, 6d. per lb.; potatoes, the dearest, 3s. per 
barrel ; an iron plough, L. 2 ; a wooden one, L. 1, 10s. ; a cart, 
L.4,'4s. ; a pair of harrows, I4s. or 15s. The common breeds 
of cattle are the small ones of the county, and little attention has 
been paid to their improvement. The general character of the 
husbandry is still exceedingly defective, most of the ground having 
been alternately in oats and bear for generations, without the be- 
nefit of green crop, grass, or fallow, except a rig or two on each 
farm, for the potatoes. The soil is, in consequence, full of a great 
variety of weeds, and exhausted ; and I deem it of the utmost im- 
portance, that a regular rotation of crops should be introduced, 
suiting the course and kind of crop, to the soil and climate ; but 



SANDWICK. 61 

hitherto there has been a greater desire to increase the quantity of 
arable ground, by reclaiming waste land, than to increase the pro- 
ductive power of that which is already arable, by rotation and 
draining. In general there are no leases, and in the few cases 
where they exist, their duration is only about seven years, so that 
they afford no adequate encouragement for improvements by the 
tenants. The state of the farm-buildings is as bad as that of the 
dwelling-house which I mentioned before, and there are no in- 
closures among the peasantry, except those of their " kale yards." 

The principal improvements which have recently been intro- 
duced among the tenants, are better horses, and implements of agri- 
culture, and those in my neighbourhood are also trying turnips on 
a small scale. 

The single-stilted plough, used here at the beginning of this 
century, is now completely abolished, with all its cumbrous ma- 
chinery, and the common two-stilted mould-board one substituted 
in its place, and a pair of good small horses, instead of three or four 
with their leaders. Harrows with teeth of iron instead of wood, and 
carts are now universally used. The public road from Stromness 
is made as far as the Loch of Aith, and in tolerable repair. 

Mr Watt is by far the most extensive farmer in the parish, and 
has for many years carried on an improved system of husbandry ; 
enclosing and reclaiming waste land on a large scale, — his last in- 
closure off the common, a few years since, including about 100 acres. 
Mr Robertson in Lyking deserves next to be noticed with appro- 
bation, for his success in raising the best crops, and acting on an 
improved system. Mr Heddle of Clumly, who purchased that 
property about five years ago, has already inclosed the whole of it, 
and brought most of its waste land into cultivation. 

The glebe has also, during the last four years, been inclosed 
and drained ; and this is the only farm in the parish, or, in a much 
wider district, that is under a regular rotation of crops. The 
course adopted is that of six years, viz. green crop, bear, two 
years grass, and two years oats ; but it would be premature to af- 
firm that this is the rotation best adapted to the county, or most 
worthy of general imitation. This experiment, however, has 
shown that the crops are vastly improved by the rotation, and that 
the first years are attended with more expense than profit. 

All the obstacles to hnprovement, noticed in the " heads of 
inquiry," operate here in their full force, viz. want of capital, the 
want of encouragement by proprietors, erroneous management of 



62 ORKNEY* 

land, defective leases, and insufficient acconnmodation in building 
and inclosing. 

The only quarries are tbose of the common clay stone, which are 
found in most places fit for building, and in a few places adapted 
for paving and roofing ; and the mill-stone quarry noticed under 
Geology. 

We have no mines, and no fisheries of any importance, though 
when the sea is smooth, those near the bay catch some fish for 
their own use, and a few lobsters for the London market 

Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce cannot be 
stated with precision, as the people could not tell it; but the prin- 
ciple on which valuators generally calculate, is, that the produce 
should be three times the value of the rent, which makes the total 
amount of the raw produce raised in this parish L.4500, and this is 
almost exclusively in grain, and a few potatoes for their own use. 
The only crop cultivated for the arts is rye, for making bonnets, 
nine acres of which are raised by Mr Watt, at what appears a liberal 
rent of Li 6, 10s. per acre, but he has to manure and work the land, 
and furnish carts whenever they are required, for carrying the pro- 
duce to the boiler, thence to the bleaching-field, and thence to 
Kirkwall, or Stromness. 

Manufactures. — The principal branch of manufacture carried 
on here, is straw plaiting, which occupies almost all our younger 
females; or, in summer, reaping and preparing the nine acres 
of rye that furnish the materials. The seeds are sown thick, 
that the straw may be long and fine. The stems are cut down 
before the grain ripens, tied near the lower end into very small 
bundles, steeped in boiling water for an hour, spread on the 
ground to bleach, and carted to the manufacturer's house, where 
the upper part between the highest joint and the grain, which 
only in general is used, is pulled out ; cut to a proper length, sift- 
ed or sorted to different degrees of fineness, and made up into 
small bundles, which are distributed to the girls who take them to 
their own houses to be plaited ; they are paid according to the 
fineness of the straw, and excellence of the work. The plaiters can 
earn 6d. a day at the present rate of wages. The plaits are next 
washed, smoked, milled, and, lastly, put into the hands of other 
girls, who sew them together into bonnets. At one time, this 
manufacture was conducted in a very objectionable manner, by 
collecting numbers of young people in confined apartments, where, 
as ^^ evil communications corrupt good manners,'' and '^ one sinner 



SANDWICK. 63 

destroyeth much good/' it is to be feared the contaminated atmo- 
sphere was not only destructive to their bodily health, but to their 
moral purity. The same objections, however, do not apply to it 
as conducted at present in their own houses, where it has a ten- 
dency to introduce neatness and cleanliness ; but it is a serious ob- 
jection, that the whim of a London lady may render it unfashion- 
able to appear under a thatch of straw, and thus at once throw 
destitute 3000 Orcadian damsels. 

The manufacture of kelp is not of great importance here now, 
only about eight tons are made,— and it neither affords much em- 
ployment nor profit. 

v.— Parochial Economy. 
There is no town or village in the parish, but the centre is only 

about five miles from Stromness, and about fifteen from Kirkwall. 

Our letters pass through the Stromness post-office; and the 
length of made-road from the centre of this, to join that in Strom- 
ness parish, is two miles. 

.Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is placed about 100 
yards from the bay at the west side, and about five miles from the 
other extremity, — a situation which is most inconvenient for all the 
population, except the few in that neighbourhood, the nearest cot- 
tage being nearly a mile distant. As this church was built so late- 
ly as 1836, partly on the foundation of the former one — it is my 
duty to relieve the presbytery of the bounds, and the minister of 
the awful responsibility of approving of such a site : for after the 
principal heritors had petitioned the presbytery for a removal of 
the church to a central situation, and that court had cordially ap- 
proved of a measure so eminently calculated to promote the glory 
of God, and salvation of souls, the opposition of the very person who 
had written, and been most prominent in promoting that petition, 
effectually defeated the arrangement 

From this it is evident that presbyteries should be vested with 
authority to fix on the proper sites for churches. 

Though so recently built, I cannot say that its present state of 
repair is good, for being founded partly on the foundation of the 
old church, and partly on soft sand, the wall cracked so far, that 
the arch of a window came down, and that being rebuilt, it has again 
cracked in such a manner, that it gives little prospect of durabili- 
ty. It contains 564 sittings, which are not yet divided. The 
manse was built in 1 833. The glebe consists of 43^ acres, near- 
ly half of which used to be arable ground, and the rest poor pas- 
ture, or waste land, which was let altogether for about L. 12. 



64 ORKNEY. 

The stipend is the minimum of Li 150, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for 
communion elements, — L. 6, 5s. 6d« of the stipend being paid from 
Exchequer. 

There are two Dissenting chapels in the parish, one belonging 
to the United Secession church, and the other to the Indepen- 
dents. The former was erected in 1828^ and the minister* is pro- 
vided with a house, a piece of land, and fuel, and receives L. 76 
of stipend, the whole of which is derived to him from the congre- 
gation ; but, according to the usual practice of the Secession 
Church, so long as the congregation are unable, by their own ef- 
forts, to support the regular dispensation of religious ordinances, 
they annually receive pecuniary aid from the United Associate 
Synod, and also from the two neighbouring congregations of Kirk- 
wall and Stromness. The number of communicants on the roll of 
that congregation is 105, but only 68 of them belong to this parish. 
The whole population attending the chapel, including member?, 
their children, and others, is about 230, and if the above propor- 
tion holds good, about 150 of them belong to this parish. The 
Independent chapel was built about 1824, but is not occupied 
every Sabbath, as the preacher resides in Harray. I cannot state 
his income, and perhaps I should not, as he is not resident here, 
but what he derives from this parish must be extremely little. I 
am told there are seven members connected with this chapel, and 
not so many additional hearers, resident in Sandwick. Making 
these deductions from the population, there remain 900 belonging 
to the Established Church, where worship is generally well attend- 
ed, considering its distance from the east extremity of the parish, 
for the people of that district are five miles from the church of 
their own parish, and only one from that of Harray, where, it is 
to be supposed, they will frequently attend. The average num- 
ber of communicants for the last six years, counting those 
who used tokens, is 496, and counting the official persons al- 
so, who used none, I may state it to be about 500. We yearly 
take a collection in church for one of the General Assembly's 
schemes ; but we cannot raise above L. 1 in this way ; for though 
we sent above L. 7 to one of them, and above L. 3 to another dur- 
ing the last two years, the greater part of these sums was raised 
by subscription. 

Education, — The total number of schools is nine ; but some of 
these are kept only for a short period, by persons who happen to 

* This gcntluinan has politely furnished the information concerning his own cha- 
pel, which IS giveo, as far as consistent with the heads of inquiry, in his own words. 



SANDWICK. 65 

liave leisure. One of these is the parochial school, and all the rest 
are unendowed. The branches of education taught at the best of 
these, are, Latin, French, grammar, writing, arithmetic, music, out- 
lines of civil and natural history, geography, geometry, and a little 
astronomy ; but several taught by females, are limited to reading 
and sewing. The salary of the parochial teacher is L. 34, 4s. 
4^d., but both at this, and the other schools, the school fees do 
not amount to much. The parochial teacher has the legal accom- 
modation. The expense of education per quarter at it, is Is. for 
reading, with grammar, writing and arithmetic, and 6d. for each 
important branch in addition, but 9d. and even 6d. per quarter 
are the fees at some of tho female schools. I believe all between 
six and fifteen years of age can read, and a great part of them 
write. I do not know of more than two or three old people who 
cannot read. The people, in general, are alive to the benefits of 
education. Notwithstanding the great number of our schools, 
another endowed and permanent one is much wanted at the north 
side of the parish, where there is a population of about 500, most 
of whom are three miles from the parochial school, which in this 
climate is sufficient to prevent attendance in the winter season, 
when they have most time. 

There is a visible improvement in the conduct of the people 
since the facilities of education have increased. In a printed let- 
ter of the principal resident heritor, dated 1821, he says, " This 
parish has been, time out of mind, so ill supplied in regard to 
church and school, owing, in a great measure, to the residence of 
the clergyman being placed at the farthest extremity of the other 
parish, it is wonderful to me that they are not more savage and 
unprincipled than they are. They are a half century behind most 
of the other parishes on the mainland, in civilization." 

Supposing this to be a correct description of their condition at 
the time, as he had the best opportunities of knowing, I can now 
testify from my own observation, as well as that of others, that 
they have already made up their half century of lee-way, in less 
than twenty years, and have made such strides in the march of 
improvement, that they are now equal to their neighbours, even 
with their twenty years additional advantages. The uncivilized 
state of this parish, noticed above, is ascribed to its junction with 
Stromness, and wanting a resident clergyman. By a decreet of 
the Court of Teinds, however, they were disjoined at the death of 
the incumbent in 1832, and since then it has formed a separate 

ORKNEY. E 



66 OUKNKY. 

charge, with a resident pastor, &e. The careless observance' 
of the Sabbath is often renriarked in double charges, where the 
people are deprived of the public ordinances of religion every al- 
ternate Sabbath, and I lament that some of this carelessness still 
adheres to a few of the old : yet I have cause to rejoice in the evi- 
dent improvement of the young, who are generally regular in at- 
tending public worship, and a Sabbath school, — the more advanced 
being taught in church, immediately after public worship, and the 
very young in district schools. A portion of these meet in the 
Secession chapel. 

In short, the improvement effected here affords every encourage- 
ment for disjoining the other united parishes. 

Library. — A parochial library was instituted immediately after 
I came to reside here, for the use of which each family pays 6d. a 
year. It now contains 164 works, chiefly on religious subjects, be- 
sides religious periodicals. There are 74 subscribers. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number on the poor's 
roll for three years is 20, and the average sum allotted to each, 9s* 
4d. a year. The average amount of annual contributions for theii* 
relief during the same period, is L.11, 9s. 7d., which is all derived 
from church collections, and marriage dues, except 8s., which is the 
rent of a bit of ground devoted to the poor. Out of this sum, 
however, there are several salaries to be paid. I have never ob- 
served any reluctance to accept of parochial relief. 

FairSf Inns^ and Fuel, — There is one cattle fair held near the 
east boundary in June. There are four alehouses, which are too 
many, and have very bad effects on the morals of the people, in- 
ducing habits of intemperance. Sandwick is worse provided with 
fuel, than any other parish in this neighbourhood, having no good 
moss from which coal-peats can be procured. By use and wont, 
however, the people have access to extensive mosses in Harray; 
but as these are six miles from the centre of this parish, the labour 
and expense of carting them home are very great. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Since the time of the last Statistical Account, the greatest im- 
provements that have been introduced in agriculture are, better 
horses, the common plough instead of the single-siilted, the ge- 
neral introduction of carts, a good made road to Stromness, the 
commencement of green crop among the cottagers, and of a regu- 
lar rotation on the glebe. The late plankings have shown the 
quantity of arable and pasture land to be nmch more than formerly, 
and the real rents are exceedingly increased. Servants' wages are 



FIRTH AND STENNESS. 67 

trebled, but' those of tradesmen and labou rers are scarcely height- 
ened. The price of malt and eggs is doubled, while that of other 
provisions is not raised so much ; but a good cow, that formerly 
sold for L.2, now costs L.4 or more. The disjunction of this pa- 
rish from Stromness, and the building of two Dissenting chapels, are 
the most important changes in ecclesiastic<il affairs. The improve- 
ments of which the parish is susceptible, must be evident from the 
previous observations ; but, again, I briefly state, that proper leases, 
•better houses, a rotation of crops, and encouragement by proprie- 
tors, seem calculated to promote the progress of industry, and the 
happiness and comfort of the labouring classes, as well as the in- 
terests of the landlords. 

Drawn up May 1839 — Remsed July 1841. 



PARISH OF FIRTH AND STENNESS. 

PRESBYTBRY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. WILLIAM MALCOLM, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Extent^ 8fc. — These united parishes are situated in the mainland 

of Orkney, having Kirkwall on the east ; Orphir on the south ; 
Stromness and Sandwick on the west ; Harra and Rendal on the 
north. The extreme length is about 9 miles ; the breadth vari- 
ous. The face of the parishes, in general, is not very agreeable, 
owing to the many moors and hilly ridges covered with heath and 
peat moss to the summit. The whole extent of coast, in both pa- 
rishes, including the small islands of Damsay, and the holm of 
Grimbister in the bay of Firth, is about 10 miles. The shores 
are low and flat. 

II. — Civil History. 
Parochial Register. — A register of baptisms and marriages has 

been regularly kept for a long time. 

Land-owners, — The chief of these are, — Mrs Stewart, Burness, 

(liferentrix,) valuation, L. 140, 19s. 6d. ; Earl of Zetland, L. 37, 

18s. 6d. ; James Baikie, Esq. of Tankerness, L. 27, 10s.; and 

between fifty and sixty smaller proprietors. 

* Dranrn up l)y Mr G. Home, schoolmaster. 




68 ORKNEY. 

Mansian^Hottse. — The only one in the parish is the house of 
Burness, belonging to Mrs Stewart 

Antiquities.'* — In the parish of Stenness, are several large erect 
stones, some standing single, but the greater number arranged in 
a circular form and surrounded with a pretty wide and deep ditch, 
of considerable circumference. 

Close by a circle of stones, are several tumuli, evidently 
artificial, some of them raised pretty high, of a conical form, and 
somewhat hollow upon the top. About half a mile. from the semi- 
circular range of stones, is another beautiful tumulus, considerably 
larger than the former, around which has been a large ditch. 
This last is distinguished by the name of Mesow or Mese-howe.-f- 

^* In the neighbourhood of Garmiston, in the parish of Stenness, 
in the side of a peat moss, are several heaps of earth, said to be 
the graves of those who fell in a skirmish, at what is called the 
battle of Summersdale, or Bigswell. The following is reported 
to have been the occasion of this action. Upon the 18th of May 
1529, in the reign of James V. John Earl of Caithness, pretend- 
ing some right to Orkney, came over with troops to seize it, land- 
ed at Howton, and proceeded to Summersdale in Stenness, where 
they were beat back by the Orkney and Shetland people into a 
place called the Moss of Bigswald, where the Earl and most of the 
people were killed, and the rest taken prisoners. Numbers of their 
bones, and part of their clothing have been dug up, which was black 
when first got, but soon fell into dust The Orkney men were com- 
manded by a Sir James Sinclair, natural son to Robert, Earl of 
Orkney."! 

Ill, — Population. 

The population of Firth amounts to 584; and that of Sten- 
ness to 583. 

During the last three years, there have been two illegitimate 
births in the parish. 

IV. — Industrv. 

Agriculture. — The average rent of land per acre is L. 1, 10s. 

The real rental of the parish is L. 1305. Wiih the exception of 
the glebe and farm, in Firth, called Scartli, the improvements in 
this parish, for many years, have been very trifling. 

A/a;2?//ac^re«.— Straw-plaiting is performed by younggirls, in 

* Vide Old Statistical Account. 

t [n thiscountry, howe is of the same import with knoll, or kr.owe, in other parts of 
Scotland, and is applied to elevated hillocks, whether arti6cial or natural. 
I Vide Old Statistical Account. 



FIRTH AND STENNESS. 69 

their father's houses. They are employed by Mr Ramsay id Kirk- 
y/M and Mr Heddle, Stromness. Kelp-burning is carried on, on 
a small scale, by farmers employed by their proprietors. 

Fishings. — Oyster-fishing is prosecuted, to a limited extent, in 
Firth. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The number of families in the parish be- 
longing to the Established Church, is 138 in Firth, and 94 in 
Stenness. 

The number of Dissenting or Seceding families in Firth is 6; 
in Stenness, 17. 

The amount of stipend is L. 150; L. 115, 4s. t2d. being de- 
rived from the parishes, and L. 34, 15s. lOd. paid by the Exche- 
quer. The glebe in* Stenness contains 5 acres, that of Firth 
about 16 or 17 acres. The value of that of Stenness would be L. 3, 
and that of Firth, L. 20, if let. The manse was built in 1811, 
and is in good repair. 

Education. — There is one parochial school for both parishes^ 
and one in each parish, supported by the Society in Scotland for 
Propagating Christian Knowledge. The teacher's salary is L. 26. 
He receives no fees. But his emoluments from other sources may 
amount to L. 4, 1 Os. per annum. 

Poor. — The average yearly amount of church collections for the 
poor is about L. 9 ; and the average number of poor of all clas- 
ses receiving relief is 19 or 20. 

Jult/ 1841. 



UNITED PARISHES 0Â¥ 

WALLS AND FLOTTA. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. WALTER WEIR, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name^ Sfc. — These parishes consist of three, or more properly 
speaking, of four inhabited islands. Walls comprehends the 
greater part of the island of Hoy, which, in the group of the Ork- 
neys, is considered to rank next to Pomona, or the Mainland, in 
point of extent. It is probable that Walls derives its name from 
<< Voes," which signifies a bay or inlet of the sea. It was ancient- 
ly called " Valis," " Waes," or <« Waas." The last mentioned 
is still retained in pronunciation, although Walls is the name by 
which it is designated in all written documents. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is about 7j miles in length 
from north to south, and about 6 miles in breadth from east to 
west. It is bounded on the north, by (he parish of Hoy ; on the 
east, by Scalpa Flow ; and on the south and west, by the Pentland 
Frith. The parish is nearly divided into two portions by the bay 
of Longhope, which extends about five miles from east to west. 
At one part, on the south side of the bay, the waters of Longhope 
almost meet those of the Pentland Frith, which at that place 
extend through a bay, and are only separated by a very narrow 
strip of land, generally not exceeding 200 feet, even at low water, 
while at spring tides it is for several days overflowed at high water, 
so as oflen to be impassable except by a boat. Hence Walls is 
sometimes spoken of as a separate island from Hoy ; and certain- 
ly, so far as regards the convenience of the inhabitants, the facili- 
ties of communication are not greater than if they formed two dis- 
tinct islands. This narrow strip of land, which is covered with 
stones, and constantly exposed to the waves of the Pentland Frith, 
seems to retain the same form which it did nearly three centuries 
ago, as Buchanan^ in his History of Scotland, describes these islands 



WALLS AND PLOTTA. 71 

thus: — " Hoy and Valis, or Waes, which some make two and 
others but one island, because about both equinoxes, at which time 
the sea doth most tempestuously foam and rage, the tide fall- 
ing back, and the lands being bared, they stick together, and are 
joined by a very narrow neck of land, and so make one island ; 
but upon the return of the tide, and the sea coming afresh between 
them, they again represent the form of two." 

Hoy may be termed the highlands of Orkney ; and although the 
south part, where this parish is situated, does not contain hills of 
equal height with those in the parish of Hoy, a great proportion of 
the island mav be considered as mountainous. The headland of the 
Berry rock is a magnificent promontory, corresponding in some re- 
spects to that of Dunnet-head, on the Caithness coast; and these 
rocks appear like two vast pillars forming the mouth of the Pentland 
Frith, through which the waters of the Atlantic rush with awful 
impetuosity. It is not improbable that, at some distant period^ 
these islands were torn, from Scotland by some convulsion of na- 
ture, and that the hills which bound the western coast of Scot- 
land, and those of Hoy, formed one range. In proof of this sup- 
position, it may be mentioned, that Dunnet-head and the Berry 
nearly correspond in their geological properties; and that the 
same position of the western hills is carried forward from the Berry 
head along the west coast of Hoy, and from thence in the same 
position through Pomona. Besides the Berry, there are other 
headlands which present their bold fronts to the waves of the Pent- 
land Frith. The extent of coast bounded by the frith is about 
twelve miles, nearly the whole of which is precipitous, and in which 
have been formed- several caverns by the action of the waters. 

Hydrography. — There is a great extent of excellent anchorage- 
ground in the various bays or harbours of this island, all of which 
afford a safe retreat to shipping of almost any size. The princi- 
pal of these is the harbour of Longhope, which h.is been already 
mentioned as being about five miles long, and which is, in some 
places, one and a half broad. This harbour is land-locked by the 
Island of Flolta; and perhaps, there is not in the kingdom a better 
place of safety for shipping. During the last war, it was a ren- 
dezvous for vessels waiting for convoy. At that time 40, 50, or 
even 100 sail might be seen in the bay. In the spring of 1840, 
there were congregated between 60 and 70 vessels, the greater 
number of which were of a large description, bound for various 
parts of the world. 



72 OIIKNEY. 

The Pentland Frith, to which allusion has been made as bound- 
ing tlie south and west of the parish, yields to none in the rapi* 
dity and strength of its stream. At spring tides, it runs at the rate 
of nine miles an hour; and has been known even to exceed that 
rate. On these occasions, it is impossible for ordinary vessels to 
withstand the force of the current The depth is generally from 
50 to 65 fathoms, and the waters flow from north-west to south- 
east. The navigation of the frith is not so dangerous as is general- 
ly supposed. There are three islands, viz. Stroma, Swona, and the 
Pentland Skerries, and these contribute to lessen the danger, as the 
tide, imi^etuously rushing against the islands, rebounds, and thus 
produces eddies, and causes the stream to run in different directions 
at the same time. The pilots, being well acquainted with this cir- 
cumstance, are thus enabled to guide their charge in safety. In 
fact, the very danger to be apprehended in so formidable a seai 
constitutes its safety, as the seamen, aware of the hazard they 
would run if overtaken by improper tides, study their time so well 
that accidents rarely happen. As an instance of this, it may be 
mentioned, that, although the post-boat has crossed between Huna 
and South Ronaldshaw three times a week, and now daily, I be- 
lieve that only one boat has been lost during a century. Were it 
not that the pilots are excellent judges of the weather, and at- 
tend to the circumstance which we have stated, the accidents 
would be numerous, as the sea is frequently so tremendous, espe- 
cially when the wind blows against the tide, that no boat can live. 

The parish is plentifully supplied with water, which is obtained 
from springs, and from the quantity of rain water which descends 
in streamlets from the rising grounds. There -are two small lakes 
beautifully situated among the hills. 

Climate, — The cold in winter and the heat in summer are more 
moderate here than at three degrees further south. The frost 
does not continue long, and the snow remains but a short time on 
the ground. This equability of climate may be accounted for by 
the proximity to the sea. The easterly wind is the coldest, the 
south and west winds, particularly the latter, the most boisterous, and 
the north wind generally brings dry weather. To the state of the 
atmosphere, so purified by strong winds, may in some degree be 
attributed the absence of epidemic diseases, which seldom prevail 
to any extent, the good health generally enjoyed, and rUo the 
longevity of the inhabitants. 

Geology* — Allusion has already been made to the magnificent 



WALLS AND FLOTTA. 73 

rock-scenery with which this parish abounds. Some of the pre- 
cipices on the west side are of sandstone, intersected by amygda- 
loid, and these again are in one place intersected by a whin dike 
ahnost straight and perpendicular. Sandstone succeeds, with ar- 
gillaceous schist, together with strata containing lime. Round 
the west and part of the north banks of the Longhope, the shore 
is composed of the schist and sandstone ; when, after two or three 
miles, the former recommences, and is supposed to extend almost 
to the north-east extremity of the parish. Lime is to be found ; 
but it is not thought that its manufacture would bo profitable ; and 
there are distinct traces of iron and lead. The article of most 
value to the inhabitants is the inexhaustible store of excellent peat 
fuel on the north side of the Longhope, which all are allowed to 
cut and convey to their homes without cost, excepting their la- 
bour, and the expense of carriage. 

Zoology. — There are no animals of prey in this parish, nor are 
there any poisonous reptiles. There is a considerable number of 
sheep reared on the island. They are allowed to roam at large 
over the hill pasture, and each proprietor has a particular mark by 
which his property is known. The black-cattle are also numerous* 
They are generally of a small size, — both they and the sheep be- 
ing of the Highland breed. The horses are numerous; and, 
though larcjer than those of Shetland, they are smaller than those 
of the south. 

Ornithology, — There is a very great variety in the feathered tribe. 
The domestic fowls are the same as on the mainland of Scotland. 
Grouse are abundant; and the birds of song are somewhat simi- 
lar to those further south. Hawks are common ; and a beautiful 
species of falcon is found, bold and fierce in the extreme, and of 
a large size. There are several kinds of eagles, which frequent 
the lofty rocks towards the west. These commit great depreda- 
tions upon the grouse, which would be much more numerous but 
fur such formidable enemies. It is alleged that the number of the 
eagles has never been known to increase or diminish. 

The sea- fowl are very numerous. The ember-goose is often 
found in winter, and the shear-water abounds, to which might be 
added a numerous list of others, which derive their subsistence 
principally from the sea. When the winter is severe, white swans 
are occasional visitors. 

Ichthyology* — In nothing does the kindness of Divine Provi- 
dence towards the inhabitants appear more than in the great sup- 



74 ORKNEY. 

ply of the finest fish with which the waters around the parish 
abound. The cod-fish taken in the Pentland Frith are not sur- 
passed by any found elsewhere in Britain, and are so mdch prized, 
that a number of Well-smacks are sometimes here fishing for the 
London market. Lobsters are also taken and sent to the same 
mart. Cockles and spout-fish are abundant. 

The herring-fishery is carried on to a considerable extent. The 
fish are not cured on the island ; but the fishermen, at the proper 
season, proceed to the difierent stations, where they are always 
sure to find purchasers. This fishery now promises to be more 
lucrative, as some time ago the fish came almost to the edge of the 
shore at the east point. 

The cuthes or sillocks are abundant at all seasons, and afford 
excellent food, besides yielding oil from the livers ; and thus may 
the people generally procure a plentiful supply of what furnishes 
both food and lic^ht 

Botany. — There are no large trees' in the parish, though, among 
the hills, shrubs and plants abound, which afford much scope for 
the researches of the botanist. In others of the Orkney Islands, 
there are found the remains of large trees, which would lead to 
the conclusion,' that, if proper care were taken in selecting those 
trees best fitted for the soil, and planting them in sufficient num- 
bers, the Orkney scenery would, ere long, be greatly improved. 

The garden fruits are various, viz. apples, pears, and plums, 
also gooseberries, currants, and strawberries. 

II. — Civil History. 

Considering the warlike transactions which took place in Ork- 
ney during many centuries, when these islands were governed by 
earls, and subject to the kings of Denmark, we are surprised to 
find in this island so few remains of fortification, especially when 
we consider its proximity to Caithness, and the continued hostili- 
ties which were maintained between the inhabitants of that part of 
Scotland and the Orcadians. There are, however, remains of se- 
veral ancient buildings. Near Snelsetter House, formerly called 
the House of Walls, is a Very large rock, separated from those on 
the land which bound the Pentland Frith, there are several traces 
of ancient fortifications. There are also the remains of what ap- 
pear to have been chapels. One of these is curiously situated on 
a peninsular rock. There are a few tumuli ; but I am not aware 
that any of them have been explored. 

MansioTi'Houses. — The House of Snelsetter, before-mentioned, 



WALLS AND FLOTTA. 75 

was, for several centuries, the seat of the family of Moodie^ and 
bears the marks of strength and antiquity. The mansion-house of 
Melsetter, formerly occupied by the late Major Moodie,the last pro- 
prietor of the name, and now by his son-in-law, Robert Heddle, 
Esq. of Melsetter, is beautifully situated at the farther extremity of 
Longhope Bay, and commands a view of the entrances of the 
Pentland Frith, the coast of Caithness, and the high lands of the 
west coast of Sutherland. 

Land'Owners. — The whole parish of Walls, with a small excep- 
tion, belongs to the Crown and Mr Heddle, — the latter being the 
proprietor of fully two-thirds of the property. 

Parochial Registers. — Unfortunately, there are few records in 
the parish, and these do not extend to a remote date. It appears 
that there have been five incumbents of Walls and Flotta, besides 
the present minister, since 1688. The dates of the two first in- 
ductions previous to 1707 are not given; their names, however, 
are mentioned, — Mr Dalgarnock and Mr Andrew Kerr. Mr John 
Keith was inducted in April 1707, Mr Edward Irving in August 
1747, Mr James Bremner in March 1772, and the present minis- 
ter in July 1837. 

III. — Population. 





South Walls. North Walls. 


Total. Flotta and Pharay. 


Total. 


In 1788, 


451 233 


684 236 


920 


1794, 


449 302 


751 240 


991 


18dl, 


• • • • 


1067. There appears to have been 






no other census 




1838, 


683 443 


1126 400 


1526 


1841, 


714 438 


1 152 448 


1600 


Increase 


since 1788, being 53 years, 680. 






The births registered during seven years are. 






In Walls, 


221 






Flotta, 


68 
289 






Marriages registered in Walls, are 


5Q 






Flotta, 


15 
— 71 




Deaths registered in Walls, 


88 






Flotta, 


33 








— 121 


• 



I have not been able to ascertain with satisfaction to myself the 
number of deaths, nor do I know whether those in Pharay are in- 
cluded, nor if all those who have died or been lost at sea are re- 
gistered. 

With few exceptions, the employments of the people consist of 
farming and fishing, the same individuals generally pursuing both 
occupations. Straw-plaiting is also carried on to a considerable 
extent by the women. 



7(J ORKNEY. 



The farms are almost all small, and the farmers tenants at will. 
The people are shrewd and intelligent, but strangers cannot fa3 
to remark a want of in-door comforts, which might be attained by 
better habits of domestic economy. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — It is impossible to state, with any degree of correct- 
ness, the number of acres contained in the parish of Walls. Almost 
none of thb farms are let by the acre, but are taken at so much for 
the whole steading and ground. There may be about 700 acres 
of arable and 1000 of pasture, besides a great extent of undivided 
common. How much of this land might be redeemed from waste^ 
we cannot say ; but that it is practicable, may be inferred from 
what has been already accomplished by the spirited exertion of 
Mr Heddle, who is carrying on improvements on a large scale and 
at great expense, in the immediate vicinity of bis farm of MeU 
setter. 

Wages. — The vahie of labour may be stated as Is. 6d. per diem 
in summer, and is. in winter, without food. 

The grain produced in this parish is bear and oats. In quali- 
ty it is equal to any, and superior to most, in Orkney. We cannot 
state the quantity raised, as the small farmers generally consume 
the most of what they grow, and no account is kept of it. The 
crop of potatoes is sufficient for the consumpt of the inhabitants. 

There is no village, properly so called, in this parish, although 
the different farms go by the name of towns, and may consist of 
two or three steadings at a little distance from each other. 

The post is conveyed by a boat, which crosses from St Mar- 
garet's Hope, in South Ronaldshay, once a week. This convey- 
ance was established, some years ago, for the convenience of the 
numerous shipping resorting to the well-known harbour of Long«> 
hope. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church of Walls is a neat and comfort- 
able building, erected in 1832, and capable of containing upwards 
of 500 people. The church of Flotta is a much older building, and 
tolerably comfortable, but too small for the population, containing 
only about 180. The people of both parishes attend the church 
well. 

There is an excellent manse. It is situated in the south of 
Walls, about a quarter of a mile from the church. 

The stipend is paid partly in grain, butter, and oil, which is 



WALLS AND FLOTTA. 77 

commuted into money at the fiar prices, and partly in money by 
the heritors of Walls. Flotta is held cum decimis inclasis. The 
deficiency is made up by the Exchequer to L.158, 6s. 8d. 

The glebe consists of 8 acres of arable, besides pasture land, 
and is furnished with a complete steading for a farm of that size. 

Education. — There are two parochial schoolmasters, in Walls, 
who are entitled to the legal salary due to schoolmasters in a pa- 
rish divided by an arm of the sea. There is also a subscription 
school, supported by the inhabitants in a district of the parish re- 
mote from any of the other schools ; but the advantages enjoyed 
by the people, notwithstanding the number of schools, are limit- 
ed, owing to the distances at which they are situated, and their 
being often separated by morasses or water. Notwithstanding 
these difficulties, there are few to be met with who cannot both 
read and write. 

Flotta being more compact is more advantageously situated. 
The teacher in this parish is supported by the Society for Propa- 
gating Christian Knowledge. The school fees in both parishes 
are moderate. Pharay has no school. 

Parish of Flotta 

Is bounded on the north and east, by Scalpa Flow ; on the west, 
by Longhope ; and on the south, by the Pentland Frith. It is 
similar, in situation and climate, to Walls. The land, however, is 
much more level. The soil is considered good. It is between two and 
three miles long, and in some places nearly two broad. The rocks 
are chiefly composed of sandstone, but are not so precipitous as 
those in Walls. There is an excellent harbour, called the Panhope, 
from a salt-pan which was at one time worked at this place. 

It is said, that there was formerly a long house or church on the 
island, where the surrounding clergy were wont to assemble. 

What has been said of Walls, in regard to the variety and plen- 
tiful supply of fish to be procured at all seasons, and the abun« 
dance of peat fuel, applies to Flotti. This island is particularly 
well situated for fishing ; and the inhabitants, who are very enter- 
prising, have excellent boats, and yield to no seamen in managing 
them. They are industrious, and when not detained at home by 
their farming operations, they are engaged in fishing, which is 
to them a more pleasing and profitable employment. The her- 
ring-fishery has of late years been vigorously prosecuted by the 
people of Flotta, as well as the fishing of cod, of which they euro 



78 ORKNEY. 

a considerable quantity. On the success of their fishing, both 
here and in Walls, the people depend in a great measure for their 
ability to discharge their engagements for the year. 

The number of inhabitants by a census in 1838 was 351. In 
1841, there were 493 persons ; forming 81 families. The Earl of 
Zetland is the sole proprietor of this parish. 

Pharay is an island to the north of Flotta, about two miles long, 
and nearly one broad ; regarding it there are no peculiarities to 
be noticed. The population in 1838 was 49. In 1841, there 
were 55 persons, forming ten families. The island is the property 
of Robert Heddle, Esq. of Melsetter. These are the inhabited 
islands^ besides which there are three which belong to the parish, 
and which are uninhabited, but afford pasture for cattle and sheep ; 
these are Rysay Little, to. the north of Pharay, and Switha, to the 
south, and Flotta Calf, to the east of Flotta. The first of these 
also belongs to Mr Heddle, the other two are the property of the 
Earl of Zetland. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
There was formerly Divine service in Walls two successive Sab- 
baths, and in Flotta every third Sabbath. It is almost unnecessary 
to remark that in a double parish, where there is a distance of 
nearly five miles between the two churches, and that space inter- 
sected by rapid tides, and the passage often dangerous, this order 
of things must be frequently broken in upon ; and no minister but 
one who has been actually so circumstanced, can imagine the 
distressing state of affairs caused by this arrangement, by which, 
of necessity, one church is left vacant every Sabbath ; besides, the 
minister cannot possibly maintain pastoral superintendence over a 
people removed at such a distance, and that by water. So con- 
vinced was the present incumbent of this, that, after his induction 
four years ago, his first attention was directed to remedy an evil 
which had been the cause of much demoralization in these parishes. 
After considerable exertion, he succeeded in obtaining an ordained 
missionary, under the auspices of the venerable Society for Pro- 
pagating Christian Knowledge, who, along with the Right Ho- 
nourable the Earl of Zetland and ourselves, contribute to his sup- 
port. 

An invaluable blessing is thus conferred, not only upon the people 
of Flotta and Pharay, but upon the 1150 inhabitants of Walls, 
who now enjoy Divine service every Sabbath. All the ordinances 
of religion are now regularly maintained in Flotta ; and we have 



SIIAPINSHAY. 79 

had much gratification in witnessing the Lord's Supper dispensed 
on two successive summers in a place where it was never before 
known to be within the memory of man. 

Mr Macintosh, who is ordained as the minister, has done much 
for the religious instruction of the young, and promoting a desire 
for reading amongst the people. The happy termination of these 
efforts calls for much gratitude, as the effects are already visible 
in inducing a much more regular attendance upon ordinances in 
both the parishes than when Divine service was so much inter- 
rupted as under the former system. There are five licensed pub- 
lic-houses in Walls, principally intended for the use of the ship« 
ping which frequent the Longhope ; but I am happy to say, that 
the sin of drunkenness, as well as of swearing, is now greatly redu- 
ced, and we have good reasons for hoping, that there are indica- 
tions of a very considerable improvement not only in morals, but in 
religious feeling. 

July 1841. 



PARISH OF SHAPINSHAY. 

PRESBYTERY OF NORTH ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. JOHN BARRY, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Situation^ Extent^ S^c. — To the north of the east part of the 
mainland, from which it is distant about one mile, this island 
extends almost in the form of a cross, from Stromberry to Ness, 
near 7 miles, and from the Gait to the foot of Shapinshay, more 
than 5. The body of the cross stretches from south-west to 
north-east, and the arms from south-east to north-west. Al- 
most around the whole island, the shores are low, pretty level, 
and, to a considerable distance inland, covered with rich fields of 
grass and corn. Towards the middle, the land rises considerably 
higher ; and as the hand of industry has never disturbed its repose 
since the creation, it exhibits the appearance of a barren waste, 
fit only for sheep pasture. 

Harbour. — The harbour of Elswick, the only- one in the island, 
is as capacious almost as any in this country. There, it is high 



80 ORKNEY. 

water at three-quarters of an hour after nine o'clock, when the moon 
is new and full. It has from four to six fathom water, over a hot* 
torn of hard clay covered with sand. On the west side of it, is a 
fine beach, with abundance of excellent fresh water ; and as it opens 
to the south-west, it is extremely convenient for ships bound to the 
southward. In ancient times, it seems to have been called Elidar^ 
wick ; for we are informed by an Icelandic manuscript, that Haco, 
King of Norway, 1263, lay with his fleet in a harbour of that name, 
near Kirkwall, in his way to the Hebrides or west of Scotland. 
He had planned an expedition against Alexander III., King of 
Scotland, and after he had lain in this harbour till St Olave's Wake, 
he sailed south before the Mull of Ronaldsha, with all his navy.* 

II. — Civil History. 

Parochial Registersn — These are the following : No. 1 of mar- 
riages and baptisms; marriages from 13th November 1632, to 
21st July 1702; baptisms from 3d November 1632, to 19th No- 
vember 1669. No. 2, of marriages and baptisms ; marriages from 
1st November 1758, to 6th August 1793; baptisms from 1st No- 
vember 1758, to 12th August 1793. No. 3, of marriages, bap- 
tisms, and deaths, from 12th September 1793, to the present pe- 
riod. All regularly kept. 

Land-owners. — These are, Captain William Balfour of Elwick ; 
valuation, L. 325, 7s. lOd. ; Samuel Laing, Esq. of Papdale ; va- 
luation, L. 217, 5s. 9fd. Crown, (part of the Bishoprick of Ork- 
ney), valuation, L. 1594, 6s. Id. 

Mansion- Heuses, — Cliffdale, the property of Captain Balfour of 
Elwick ; How, an old ruinous building, the property of S. Laing, 
Esq. of Papdale. 

Antiquities. — In Elhardholm, a place belonging to this parish, 
there arc the remains of a small chapel, which does not call for 
any particular notice. On the highest ground, and near the cen- 
tre of the parish, there is, as in most of the other islands, a wart or 
ward -hill, which commands an accurate and extensive view, not 
only of this, but of fifteen surrounding parishes. To me this ap- 
pears plainly to be artificial, and though one of the largest, it is 
certainly one of those tumuli which are so frequently to be met 
with in these islands. To the eastward of this little wart or ward- 
hillock, about an English mile, is a high stone, called the Standi 
ing Stone of Shapinshny. Above the level of the ground it is 12 
feet high, and perhaps 5 or 6 below it ; its breadth is between 

* old Statistical Account. 



SIIAPlNSliAY. 81 

4 and 5 feet; its thickness a foot and a half; and from its beings 
clothed in moss or scurf, it has a very venerable majestic aspect, 
and seems to have weathered many ages. In form and dimen- 
sions, it very much resembles stones that are found standing in 
many of the other islands, particularly, the circle and semicir- 
cle in the parish of Stenness ; and it has perhaps been erected 
either as a place of worship, or sacrifice, or to be a monument of 
some signal battle or victory, or to preserve the memory of some 
celebrated hero who had fallen in the field of battle. Towards 
the north side of the island, and by the sea side, is another large 
stone, called the Black Stone of Odin, Instead of standing erect, 
like the one above mentioned, it rests its huge side on the sand, 
and raises its back high above the surrounding stones, from which 
it seems to be altogether different in quality. How it has come 
thither, for what purpose, and what relation it has borne to the 
Scandinavian god with whose name it has been honoured, not 
only history, but tradition is silent. On the west shore, oppo- 
site nearly to the rock or skerry of Vasa, where the tides are 
rapid and the sea is shallow, we meet with a place known by 
the name of Grucula or Agricola, Thither, tradition reports, 
one of Agricola's ships, in his celebrated voyage round the is- 
land of Britain, was driven by violence of weather, and strand- 
ed. But the most remarkable pieces of antiquity in this, and in- 
deed in the other islands, are those large ruins denominated Pict$ 
houses. Here, they are frequently met with along the sea-shore, 
two or three of them at no great distance from, and in general 
raising their conical heads in view of, each other. They are situ- 
ated for the most part, on the most pleasant spots ; cohered with 
green, and ornamented with flowers and herbs of various sorts ; and 
such of them as have been examined by the eye of curiosity, have 
discovered considerable variety in both their form and dimensions.* 

III. — Population. 



Amount of population in 1801, 


• 


744 


181 r. 


• 


726 


1821, 


• 


779 


1831, 


• 


809 



* Near CUifdale, it is noticed in the Old Account, a subterraneous building was 
discovered, of a singular nature. It had been formed by digging the earth about 
three feet deep, and erecting pillars of stones built one upon another to the height of 
four feet, to support a flat roof of broad stones or flags that covered the whole build- 
ing, which was composed of two hexagons contiguous to one another, and their dia- 
meter about eight feet, and of a rectangle as large as both. There was found in it a 
gold ring of uncommon construction. The outside was broad and large, composed 

as it were of three cords twisted or plaited together ; the inside was much narrower, 

and pretty well fitted for the use of the finger. 

ORKNEY. F 



82 ORKNEY. 

The amount at the present time is supposed to be 830. 

During the last three years, there has been one illegitimate birth. 

IV. — Industry. 

Number of acres, Rtandard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either cultivat- 
ed or occasionally in tillage, .... 748 

Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain con- 
stantly in waste, or pasture, ' . • . 2886 

Number of acres in a state of undivided common, . . 3134 

There is no wood, either natural or planted. 

The average rent of land per acre, is lOs. Real rental of the 
parish, about L. 611. 

Manufactures. — Plaiting of straw for bonnets is universally prac- 
tised by females; and about 100 herring-nets are made yearly at 
16s. each. 

Fishings.'^Yiemvig fishing is oarried on with 50 boats; II 
of which are employed in the cod-fishery during the season. The 
average quantity of herring caught yearly by each boat, is 60 
cranes, sold at 10s. per crane. The quantity of cod caught yearly, 
at an average, is 2^ tons per boat; sold at an average of L.IO per 
ton. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Ecclesiastical State. — The number of families belonging to the 

Established Church is 100; of Dissenting or Seceding femilies, 

supposed to be between 60 and 70. Stipend, L.150. The value 

of the glebe is about L.27. The manse was built in the year 

1831 ; and is at present in good condition. 

Education. — Besides the parochial school, there is one under 
the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; and no other 
schools are required. The salary of the parochial teacher is L.25, 
Ids. 3d. : his fees may amount to L.10, and he has no other emo- 
luments. 

Poor. — Average number of persons receiving aid, 20 : the ave- 
rage sum allotted to each per annum is 5s. The church collec- 
tions amount to L.7 or L.8 per annum, — and these are the only 
source of contribution for the poor. 

July 1841. 



PARISH OF ROUS AY AND EAGLESHAY. 

PRESBYTERY OF NORTH ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. GEORGE RITCHIE, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

This parish consists of the four islands, Rousay, Eagleshay^ 
Weir, and Enhallow, besides two small holms or uninhabited 
islands. These islands are situate about nine miles north-west of 
Kirkwall. 

Rousat/f the largest, is one of a range of hills. It abounds 
with game, and contains many springs of excellent water. The 
soil is good. There are the remains of a small church about five 
miles from the manse. 

Eagleshay. — This is a pleasant, low-lying island, with a small 
Gothic church in the west part of it, which was dedicated to 
St Magnus, the tutelar saint of Orkney. It has a pyramidical 
steeple at the west end, and a vaulted choir at the east end, which 
joins to the body of the church. In Eagleshay, there is a small 
lake of fresh water; and the soil is very good, and fit for culture; 
but it is poorly cultivated. There is a small bay of shell sand, of 
the best kind, on the west side of this island, and a large track of 
sand on the north side, with much bent, and many rabbits. 

Weir, — Weir Island is a small low-lying island, not so large 
as Eagleshay. ' The soil is the same, and the culture very poor. 
There are the ruins of a church here, and a choir, but no steeple ; 
and the vestiges of a fortification on a rising ground, a little from 
the place where the church stands. 

Enhallow. — Enhallow Island is very small, but very pleasantly 

situated, being overlooked by the hills and headlands of mainland 

on the south, and of Rousay on the north. The soil is good, but 

not skilfully managed. 

II. — Civil History. 
LamUownera. — These are 13 in number, — and the chief of 

* Drawn up by Mr WtlUam Smcaton, Session • Clerk. 



84 ORKNEY. 

them are, Lord Dundas ; William Traill, Esq. of Woodwick ; 
James Baikie, Esq. of Tankerness ; Robert Heddle, Esq. of Mel- 
setter ; Robert Patten, Esq. of Saviskael. 

Parochial Registers, — The earliest register commences 16th 
September 1733, and ends llth January 1747. The next com- 
mences 13th May 1758, and is continued to this date. Both have 
been tolerably well kept. 

III. — Population. 

Amount of the population in 1821, 1 151 

1831, 1253 

at present, 1262 

Illegitimate births in the parish in the course of the last three 

years, 1. 

IV. — Industry. 
AgricvLUure.--^ 

Number of acres,' standard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either 

cuUiYated or occasionally in tillage, . . 2200 

which never have been cultivated, and which remain con- 
stantly waste or in pasture, . 10440 
in a state of undivided common, . . 7500 

There is no wood, either natural or planted, in the parish. 
Produce. — 

Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the doroestie 

animals, .... L 3550 

potatoes, turnips, cabbages, beet, and other plants, culti- 
vated in the fields for food, . . . 665 
of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, • . 80 
of fisheries, whether sea, river, or lake, . . 750 



Total yearly value of raw produce raised, . L.5045 

It may be added, that there are belonging to the parish, 18 
herring boats, carrying 90 tons. 
Real rent of the parish, L.1530. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State, — Number of families belonging to the Es- 
tablished Church, 183; of families. Dissenting or Seceding, 87. 
Amount of stipend, L.150. 

Education, — There are four schools in the parish, and one more 
is required, as it is calculated there are 41 persons in the parish 
betwixt six and fifteen years of age unable to read, and about 21 
above fifteen years of age in the same situation. The parochial 
teacher's salary amounts to L.26, and his fees to L.6. 

Poor. — The number of persons receiving parochial aid is 28. 
The only fund for their relief is from church collections, which 
amount, on an average, to L.4, 15s. per annum. 

July 1841. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

CROSS AND BURNESS. 

PRESBYTERY OF NORTH ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. WILLIAM GRANT, MINISTER.* 



L—» Topography and Natural History. 
Situation and Extent. — The uDited parishes of Cross and Bur- 

uess include about one-half of the extent of the Island of Sandayl 
— forming the one the south-west and the other the north west 
limbs of that island, which is very much cut up by indentations of 
the sea. The extreme length of the two parishes from Spurness, in 
Cross, to Whitemill Point, in Burness, is 9^ statute miles ; but the 
breadth varies from half a mile to three miles. Cross parish is consi- 
derably diversified by rising ground ; but Burness, like Lady par 
rish, composing the rest of the island, is almost a dead flat, very 
little raised above the level of the sea« Burness, anciently called 
St Colm's, extends to about 2500 imperial acres, and, being al- 
most surrounded by the sea, it has, on all its shores, a most plen- 
tiful supply of sea-weed, both for manure and for the manufacture 
of kelp. It is bounded on its west and north sides by the Atlantic 
Ocean and the dangerous frith, here about seven miles wide, which 
divides it from the Island of North Ronaldshay ; but it is sheltered 
from the full force of the Atlantic surge by the holms of Ire and 
the half-tide rocks or skerries of Rive ; east and south, it stretches 
along, and forms one side of, the Bay of Otterswick, anciently 
called Odinswick, in which is safe anchorage for vessels of any 
size, while, at the top of this bay on the Burness side, a sort of 
inner harbour is formed by the point of Lambiness, on the soft 
sand of which small vessels may be beached at any time with per- 
fect safety. The shores of Burness are generally flat, and the 
appearance of the parish is green, fertile, and lively, excepting 
near its junction with Cross parish, where there is a moor of about 
200 acres of a most barren and forbidding appearance. There 

* Drawn up by Robert Scartb, Esq. Scar House, Sanday. 



86 OUKNET. 

are several ponds, and one fresh- water loch of considerable extent 
and depth, — a favourite resort of ducks and other aquatic fowl 
during the winter and spring; and both this loch and the more 
extensive one of Bea, in Cross parish, are occasionally visited by 
flocks of wild swans, as they pass north or south in their vernal and 
autumnal migrations. The mansion-houses of Scar and Saville 
are situated about a mile apart, — the former on the west and the 
latter on the east shores of the parish, surrounded by rich com 
fields and pleasant grassy links; and, in the garden at Saville, 
apples and small fruit are produced. 

The parish of Cross extends to about 4600 acres, of which fully 
a fourth part is moorland, and another fourth part sandy downs 
and links. The general appearance of this parish (with all defe< 
fence to the recorded opinion of a fair traveller who lately, from a 
midnight view on the deck of a steamer, at the distance of sixteen 
or eighteen miles, condemned the whole island to hopeless ugli- 
ness), we must be allowed to say is very beautiful. It is well shel- 
tered from the west and north by the Island of Eday, separated 
from it by a narrow sound varying from 1^ to 3 miles wide, through 
which the tides are constantly pouring with a velocity of not less 
than eight miles an hour. This sound has much the appearance 
of a noble river, and the resemblance is increased during the ebb- 
tide by the foaming rapids, as they may be called, of Lashy- Roost 
running nearly across the channel from side to side ; and it is cu- 
rious to observe with what dexterity the islanders guide their hand- 
some-looking and neatly-rigged yawls through the breakers of the 
Roost On the east of Cross parish, Sanday Sound, dividing 
Sanday from Stronsay and the adjacent holms, runs along, until it 
leads into the Bay of Kettletoft, at the head of which Cross and 
Lady parishes march. 

. The land in Cross rises at two points to more than 300 feet 
above the sea, and the surrounding islands, sounds, friths, and 
bays, with the green and generally fertile plains of Sanday itself, 
present, from these points, one of the most delightful views the 
eye can rest upon. One of these heights, called the Brae of Fea, 
falls only a very little distance towards the west, when it terminates 
in a precipice washed at bottom by the sea, and perforated by cu- 
rious caverns ; while on the east side the slope is gentle, and co- 
vered with rich pasture grass, enamelled with the field-gentian, 
the bird's-eye primrose, the squill, and other flowers, until it 
reaches the reedy edge of Bea Loch on the property of How. 



CROSS AND BUUNESS. 8t 

Geology. — The whole island of Sanday is composed of secon- 
dary rocks, sandstone, sandstone flag, and a little limestone. Near 
the house of Saville, in Burness, there is an isolated mass of pri- 
mary rock, supposed gneiss, about fourteen tons weight, resting on 
the surface of the ground, and considered by Dr Neill to be *^ one 
of the most uncommon niineralogical appearances in Orkney, the 
nearest primary rocks being at Stromness, which is above thirty 
miles distant, and several rapid friths intervening." Opposite to 
Eday, on the west shore of the farm of Stove, in Cross parish, 
there is a curious rock called Heclabir, which Dr Neill says is 
a breccia, ^^ most of the component parts of which are rounded 
and water-worn nodules of sandstone. The pieces are of diffe- 
rent sizes, from balls of three, five, and ten pounds weight, to such 
as are of the size of sparrow eggs. A few quartz and calcareous 
nodules are interspersed." 

The bays of Stove, Backaskail, and Otterswick produce enor- 
mous quantities of shell-fish, principally cockles and the spout or 
razor fish. The accumulated shells of these fish ground to pow- 
der, and heaped up upon the beaches by the action of the sea, 
and blown inland by the wind, seem to form a very considerable 
portion of the soil in Cross and Burness ; and in some districts it 
is evident that the dry sandy downs, now inhabited by numerous 
colonies of Vabbits, have at one time been fresh water lochs, or 
lagoons communicating with the sea. The writer of this article, 
in draining lands of the description referred to, has found, at a 
depth in some places of six or seven feet, but always on reaching 
a certain level, a bottom of mud and gravel containing many rem- 
nants of reeds and other aquatic plants ; and throughout the depth 
of the ditch, it was easy to mark the different layers of sand which 
had been blown over the ground at different periods, by the black 
line of mossy earth or decayed vegetable matter running along, 
where each successive surface had been. In immediate connec- 
tion, however, with such sandy downs throughout both parishes, 
there are large tracks of strong clay, of gravelly, or of deep loamy 
land, admirably fitted for raising the ordinary green and grain 
crops. The natural pastures of Sanday, where they are protect- 
ed from those most destructive vermin, the rabbits, are exceeding- 
ly rich and feeding. They are composed of a variety of grasses^ 
among which cocksfoot, the different fescues, plantains, and the 
red and white clovers, known here by the names of red and white 
curl-doddies, are the most conspicuous. Sea-rockets, bent-grasS| 



88 ORRNBV. 

and the sea- reed are plentiful near the sandy beaches; and the 
sea banks themselves are often ornamented by the cowslip, thrift, 
and sea-pink, epilobium and cranesbill. 

Zoology. — Few places present more encouragement to the sports* 
man than the parishes of Cross and Burness, for though there are 
00 grouse or hares, as on Eday or on the mainland of Orkney, 
there are great numbers of lapwing, snipe, and landrail ; while 
rabbits are not counted by hundreds, but by thousands. On more 
than one farm f3000 rabbits are taken yearly ! The rocks are te- 
nanted by large flocks of the wild pigeon ; and the lakes, sounds, 
and bays are filled with almost every variety of water-fowl. About 
the 20th of June, or later, as the season has been favourable or 
otherwise, literally clouds of the golden plover arrive from the 
north ; and with viist numbers of the sandpiper tribe, of the cur- 
lews, herons, and whimbrels, they are to be found on the moors 
and flat shores of the island, until early spring calls them ofi" to 
their breeding places in less populous regions. Very many varie- 
ties both of water and land birds remain on the island, all the sea- 
son, and breed there. Of these the oyster 'catcher, the redshank, 
the dunlin, the dotterel, the turnstone, the tern, and several va- 
rieties of the gull tribe, — the eider-duck, the common wild duck, 
the teal, the shield drake, and others of the duck tribe, with larks, 
buntings, and starlings, are the most numerous. Of the last nam- 
ed birds, the starlings, the writer took from his dovecot in one 
morning no less than twenty-two dozen. 

The fish caught round the island are, cod, ling, skate, holibut, 
flounder, and the young of the coal-fish, here called sillocks and 
cuiths. These last are caught on the fly, either from the rocks, or 
from the stern of a small boat ; and in addition to the supply of 
food which they form at all seasons of the year, and the quantity 
of oil for household use produced from their livers, the catching 
of them is no despicable sport, and would be preferred to the fin- 
est river fishing by those who would rather fill their basket in one 
hour, than exercise their patience by waiting all day for even " a 
glorious nibble." Lobsters are caught in great numbers by boats 
from the shore, and bought up and conveyed to the London 
market, direct from Sanday, by smacks. Seals are pretty nu- 
merous; but, as there are no resident sportsmen, they are not 
often shot. The otter frequents the rocks and caverns on the 
west side, and is occasionally seen stealing his way to Bea 
Loch. But the most exciting of all fishings, if fishing it can 



CROSS AND BURNKSS. 89 

be called, is that of the bottle-nosed or ca'-ing whales, the Del* 
phinus deductor of zoologists* Large shoals of these auiinals, 
varying from 50 to 500 in number, and from 5 to 25 feet each in 
length, get occasionally embayed ; and upon this happening, all 
boats are launched, all hands active, every tool which axn be con- 
Terted into a weapon of offence to the strangers, from the roasting 
spit of the principal tenant, to the ware-fork of the cottar, is put 
into requisition. The shoal is surrounded, driven like a flock of 
timid sheep to shallow water ou a sandy shore, and then the at- 
tack is made in earnest. The boats push in, stabbing and wound- 
ing in all directions. The tails of the wounded fish lash the sea, 
which is dyed red with their blood, sometimes dashing a boat to 
pieces. The whales in dying emit shrill and plaintive cries, ac^ 
companied with loud snorting, and a humming noise easily mis- 
taken at a distance for fifes and drums; so that the whole scene 
has been not inaptly compared to a battle-field. 

II. — Civil Historv. 
Parochial Registers. — There are or rather were two parochial 

registers, — a register of births and baptisms, and a register of mar- 
riages commencing in 1711, and kept, apparently with great regu- 
larity, until 1793, since which time a great majority of the births 
have not been registered, and no register of marriages has been 
kept. There have been no illegitimate births in either of the pa- 
rishes, during the last three years. 

Rents of Land and Proprietors, — It may be curious to observe the 
difference in the yearly value of the lands in Orkney, since the va- 
luation made for assessing the land tax in 1653. The names of the 
then proprietors of Cross and Burnesswere, Magnus Fea of Grin- 
dilla ; James Fea of Stove ; John ScoUay of Leta ; John Smith 
of Seater; John Elphinstonte ; John Miller of Skelbuster; John 
Irvine of Isgairth ; John Henryson ; James Traill of Houbister ; 
John Groat of Elsness; Malcolm Sinclair of Papness; James 
Cock of Westove ; Thomas Abercrombie ; Richard Fothering- 
hame ; Brandy Thurland ; Walter Thomson ; John Above-the- 
Riggs ; John Scott of Langskeal ; Edward Cock ; Robert Stew- 
art of Brough and the Earl of Morton ; and the whole lands are 
rated in the same valuation at L. 1090, Os. 5d. Scots, or L. 140, 
16s. 8d. Sterling ; to which add feu and scat and teind-duties pay- 
able to the Earl of Morton as Donatory of the Crown, viz. 1 bar- 
rel butter at L. 20 ; 76 lispunds butter at L. 2 ; 650 meils, 1 set- 
ting, and 6 marks of bear at L. 1, 13s. 4d. ; 13 meils, 5 settings, 
20f marks of meal at L. 4; and L. 127, 10s. 6d. Scots money, gives 



90 ORKNEY. 

L.144I, Is. lid. Scots, or L.120, Is. 9d. Sterling, — ^making tbe 
gross land-rent of both parishes, at that remote period, L. 260, 
18s. 5d. Sterling. 

In (he last Statistical Account of Sanday and North Ronald- 
shay, ) 793, prepared with great intelligence, care, and accuracy, 
by the late Rev. William Clouston, then minister of Cross and Bur- 
ness, the gross rent of the two islands is stated at L.1064, Ss. 0^ 
Sterling, and calculating at his conversion of rents in kind, which 
would now be just about half-price, the then gross land rent of 
the parishes of Cross and Burness alone amounted to only L. 419^ 
lis. )d. Sterling. 

Cross parish now belongs in property to 

1. Samuel l^ing of Papdale, whose laotls of Stove* GrindilU aiid Whippa Land^ 
foim the south promoi.tory, and a:e let in one large and five small farms, in- 
cludhig the grazings of the Spurness hulins for a died rent, wholly csclusiTe of 
kelp, of . . L.^4 9 

Public burdens, — the superior duties and land tax be- 
ing redeemed, arc . . 21 16 

Net, L.222 13 

2. John Balfour of Trenahy, whose lands of Warsetter 
and Westbrough, with several small farms, two wind- 
mills, and two water-mills, are let for a land rent, ex- 
clusive of kelp, of . . L.d30 5 

Public burdens, — including superior duties payable to 
the Earl of Zetland, are . 94 14 3 



3. The Earl of Zetland, whose lands of Backask ail. Lev- 
land, and part of Nibister, are let for . ' L. 63 14 
Public burdens are, . . 12 B 5 



Net, 245 10 9 



L.51 5 7 



To which add, average value ofsuperior duties drawn by 
him out of the parish, and for which he pays no pro- 
portion of public burdens, * . 64 1 7| 



4. Thomas Traill of Westove, whose lands of How, 
Howsgarth, and Beancss, with 14 cotts, are lot to one 
tenant for a land rent, exclusive of kelp, of . L. 134 

Also some inclosures connected with the principal inn of 
the island, let together on an improving lease, for a 
nominal rent of . . 2 6 



Net, 115 7 2t 



L. 134 2 6 

Public burdens,— -the superior duties being redeemed, are 22 15 If 



5. The representatives of the late J. T. Urquhart of . 
P^lsncss, for the water-mill of Bea, and pendicles of 
Ugarth and liettal, a land rent of . I^. 47 

Public buidens, land-tax, and superior duties being re- 
deemed, . 118 



Net. Ill 7 4^ 



Net, 45 11 4 

Carry forward, L.740 9 8 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 91 

Drought over, L,740 9 8 

6. Tliree small farms in the occupation of the proprie« 

tors, viz. Fea of Bollaquoy and iieater, Mr Dennison 

of Myres, and Sclater of Skelbuster, in all'nrorth of land 

rent, about . . L. 40 

Public burdens of the three, including superior duties, 

payable to the Earl of Zetland, . 9 15 7 



Net, dO 4 5 



Net land rent of Cross parish in 1840, L.770 14 1 

Burness parish, with the exception of three acres iu Hettal, and 
18 acres, the minister's glebe lands, is the property of 

Thomas Traill of Westove, and is, including wind-mill and water-mill, occupied by 
sixty tenants, paying rents varying from L. 4 to L. 40 each, making a land-rent, 
exclusive of kelp, of . L.510 19 10 

The mansion house of Scar, with a farm of near 80 
acres, is occupied by the factor, and the other man. 
sion-house of Saville, with lands around, is occupied 
by the Rev. Walter Traill of Westove, together worth 
about . . laO 



L.640 19 10 
The superior duties having been purchased from the 
Earl of Zetland, the present public burdens of stipend, 
school salary^ &c. amount to • . G9 19 7 



Net land rent of Burness in 1840, . L. 571 3 

The gross rents stated above being L. 1564, lis. 11|d. Ster* 
ling, (after making allowance for lands farmed by proprietors 
themselves, which it is probable Mr Clouston did not include in 
his rental, as also for the difference in the relative value of money 
and farm produce, the rents being then mostly paid in kind,) it 
will be seen that the gross rents of these two parishes have been 
more than doubled since 1793; and this, notwithstanding that not 
only kelp but rabbit skins, upon which he counts for part of the 
farmer's profit, have become unsaleable. But the most casual ob- 
server will see at a glance, that, from whatever cause the value of 
grain and cattle now yearly exported, is proportionally increased. 

When the manufacture of kelp was a source of profit to the 
proprietors, and when almost everything else was neglected in 
order to increase its quantity, the produce of the manufacture 
from Cross and Burness was as follows : 

Mr Laing from Stove and the Spurness holms, . • 47 tons. 

Mr Balfour, . . .175 

Note The tenants of Westbrough and Warsetter yet pay a 

considerable rent for the kelp of their properties ; but this 
kelp rent has been deducted before stating the land rent as 
above. 
The Earl of Zetland, . . 10 

Note llie same remark applies as to Westbrough and 

Warsetter. — — 

Carry over, 2?J2 



92 OUKNEY. 

Brought over, 2S2 tons. 

Thomas Traill, — In Cross, . . 18 

In Burness, . 220 

238 

Bollaguoy and Skelbuster, with the minister *s glebe in Cross, 
made about • 10 

Toul, 480 tons. 

Say 480 tons of marketable kelp, which, from its very superior 
quality, always met with a ready sale at Dumbarton and Newcas- 
tle, and so lately as the years 1825-26, and 27, (it having been 
much higher priced previous to that time,) left a clear average re- 
turn to the proprietor of L.9 per ton, making L.4d20. This 
source of revenue is now almost wholly cut off. The use of kelp 
in the manufacture of glass has been superseded by Spanish 
barilla, brought in at a low duty, and still more, it is said, by new 
chemical discoveries in the art of glass making. The only de- 
mand now for kelp comes from chemical works on the Frith of 
Forth, and Lord Normanby's alum works near Whitby ; but the 
prices offered are such as will do little more than cover the ex- 
pense of manufacture and the freight. 

It may be easily supposed thai the abstraction of so large an 
amount of revenue from the proprietors of these parishes, in com- 
mon with the other proprietors of Orkney, must have been severe* 
ly felt, not only by themselves, but also by the farmers, peasantry, 
and trades-people dependent upon them ; and this the more, that 
formerly in Orkney every consideration was sacrificed to kelp. Agri- 
culture was much neglected, and even the fisheries, for which the 
county is so well adapted, were unattended to. So long ago as 1804 
Dr Patrick Neill of Edinburgh warned the proprietors, of what has 
actually happened, in these words : '^ Should a cheap process for 
extracting the soda from sea water happen to be discovered, or 
should the market for kelp on any other account unexpectedly fail, 
the landholders of Orkney will find, when too late, the great im- 
prudence of thus neglecting the cultivation and improvement of 
their lands."* The consequence has been, that several extensive 
properties have been forced into the market, and partly from an 
absurd notion that the failure in the manufacture of kelp would 
have the effect of lowering the land rents, and making their reco- 
very uncertain, — partly from the want of tenants of sufficient skill 
and capital to take the manor farms, and follow out the very ex- 
tensive and, in many cases, highly judicious improvements which 
had been begun by the proprietors; but, above all, from the entire 

* Tour through Orkney and Shetland, by Patrick Neill. Edinburgh, 1806. 



CHOSS AND DUHNESS. 93 

and inexcusable ignorance of south country capitalists, as to every- 
thing connected with this remote but highly interesting and valu- 
able county, no sales could be effected, and these properties have 
been left not in the best possible situation for the comfort of the 
people, nor for their own improvement, viz. under trust for the 
payment of creditors. With every disadvantage, however, the 
peasantry of the country have done wonders for themselves. 

Most fortunately, before the entire fall of kelp, Mr Laing of Pap- 
dale and others, had, by liberal enc^uragenjent and large advan- 
ces, induced their small tenants and cottars to fit out boats, nets, and 
lines, and to attempt the prosecuting of the herring and cod fisheries. 
Taking warning from the bad effects of compulsory labour on the 
kelp manufacture, these gentlemen did not enthral their tenants, 
by any interference with the produce of their fisheries, but left 
them at liberty to dispose of their fish to the highest bidder, and 
to lay out their gains as they thmight fit. The inhabitants of the 
parishes of Cross and Burness, as, indeed, of the whole Island of 
Sanday, were rather behind their neighbours in starting to this 
new scene of industry ; but they can now boast of many crews of 
excellent fishermen and of well-rigged and powerful boats, to whose 
numbers every year is adding ; while the rising spirit of independ* 
ence, which successful exertion and unfettered industry is sure to 
produce in any people, leads them yearly to pay more and more at- 
tention to improving the management of their small iarms, of their 
stock of cattle and horses, and to raising the scale of their per- 
sonal comforts in clothing and lodging ; so that, considering the 
enormous quantity of land in those parishes, lying comparatively 
waste and unproductive, the proprietors, with a little well-timed 
direction and encouragement, may not only secure their present 
land rents, but look forward to making up, from the same source, 
great part, if not all, of their heavy loss by kelp. 

III. — Population. 

By the census taken in 1831, there were in Cross parish 91 inhabited houses, 82 &• 
milics said to be employed in agriculture, 16 in trade, and of other fiimilies, Si- 
total 101 families. 
Males, ...... ... 250 

Females, ......... 291 

Total, . "541 

There were in Burness parish 76 inhabited houses, 69 families employed in 

agriculture, 11 in trade, and 1 other family — total 81 families. 
Males, . . • . • - 203 

Females, ...... 237 

Total, 440 

Total population in both parishes in 1831, . 961 



94 ORKNEY. 

Tlie total i>opu1atian of Cross parisli is now .... 560 

The population of Buriicss parish is .... 492 

Total of botli parishes now . 992 

The number of children below 15 years of age in both parishes is 190. 

The cottar system, which formerly prevailed universally, and 
still does prevail to a small extent, is perhaps the most degrading 
to the labouring class, the most discouraging to industry and exer- 
tion, and consequently the most injurious to morals, which can be 
conceived. A youngster, when he has hardly attained to man- 
hood, and before he can have saved as much as will purchase a 
bed and blankets, makes an improvident marriage, and only then 
thinks of looking for a hut to shelter him and his fast*increasing 
family. Having got the hut and a small piece of land, he has to 
go in debt for the purchase of a wretched cow and a still more 
wretched pony, and, paying his rent in small but never-ending and 
ill-defined personal services, or, as it is expressively called in the 
country language, ^^ on-ca-work," he becomes the slave of the 
principal tenant, who is so blind to his own interests, as to prefer 
the slovenly half-executed work of this hopeless, ill- fed, and inert 
being to the willing and active services of a well-paid and well-fed 
farm-servant The tenants of Sanday are, in general, very kind 
to their cottars, and seldom a day passes without their having to 
grant some little entreated favour or other, which the circumstan-* 
ces of the cottar makes necessary for his support; but they do not 
seem to calculate the value in money of the property thus given 
away. Often, in the course of the year, it will amount to as much 
as the wages of a good ploughman ; but then, being an uncertain 
bounty, and, moreover, the product of beggary, it does the receiver 
little good beyond the immediate relief to his family, and destroys 
in him all habits of self-dependence and of foresight. 

The tenants complain that, from the inducement held out to 
young men by the fisheries, it is nearly impossible to get farm-ser- 
vants. While the tenant was paid a high price for the manufac- 
ture of kelp, he kept his farm-servants all the year round, employ- 
ing them profitably during the summer season in the kelp ; but, not 
having yet gone into the system of raising extensive green crops, he 
does not conceive that he needs servants durincf the four months 
betwixt plough-casting and harvest ; consequently, he pays off his 
servants at the former period, and they are thus forced to become 
fishermen. He cannot, therefore, expect that they will return to 
him exactly at the time which suits his convenience, nor that a 

man, who may be making L.1 a- week, with the chance sometimes 

S 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 95 

of as much in a day and night, will leave this exciting employment 
for farm work at as much per month. The remedy of all this is 
evident. Let the cottar's house and land be rented in money^ 
which rent let him make out in any line his genius may lead him 
to. If the tenant requires his services, he ought to be hired by 
the day or hour at fair money wages, and if he requires any farm 
produce he ought to pay for it in cash. In regard to farm-servants, 
the tenant would find his interest in employing only those who have 
nothing to do with boating or fishing, — managing his farm so as to 
give them work all the year round, and paying them such wages 
as shall give him a right to insist for close, constant, and active 
service. 

The most approved make of carts, ploughs, rollers, and other 
farming implements are in general use ; and some of the plough- 
men would obtain prizes at a competition even in the south country. 

The society of Sanday is equal to that of any of the islands, 
and the clergy and principal farmers are exceedingly hospitable 
and obliging to each other, as well as to strangers. There are few 
or no games, or public amusements of any kind.* The common 
people used to be fond of dancing and foot-ball playing, but of 
late years, it is to be regretted, that, while there is less hilarity and 
social enjoyment among the young, there is more of quiet tippling 
in the public-house. Relaxation and amusement are necessary ; 
and when the innocent recreations of music and dancing are dis- 
couraged, there is a risk that something worse may be had re- 
course to. 

The language spoken, as through all the islands, is English. 
Among the peasantry a good many words are peculiar to the north 
isles, and some of them are evidently of Scandinavian origin. A 
few are given in alphabetical order. Anything like a complete 
list would encroach too much on our space.* 

• /l6i«,(v.)to thrash halfa sheaf for giving horses — Abir, (n.) a sheaf so thrashed. 
—-<4rcwiy, (adj.) diminutive. 

Bal, (v.) to throw at — Been-hook, (n.) part of the rent paid by a cottar for his 
]and is work all harvest ; but besides his own labour, he must bring out his wife 
three days, for which she receives nothing but her food. All the women on a farm 
are called out at the same time ; tliey work together, and are called been hooks, 
and the days on which they work been -book days — Buil, (n.) one of the divi- 
sions or suills of a stable— i9M%, (n.) a feast— fi«*«/, (n.) a small box—BuUic, 
or BuUo^ (n.) a piece of flannel or home-made cloth, worn by women over the head 
and shoulders — Bramnto, (n.) a mefis of oatmeal and water — Bret, (v.) to strut — 
Brodend, (adj.) habituated to^Burtiin, (n.) meal made of corn parched in a pot or 

"hellio.'' 

Cnie,{i\.) a small inclosure for raising cabbage plants — Cumtna/^ ("•) « ""a" 
rising ground— CV/^* ("0 * Ijo^lo^ plnce-^Cheaing meat, (n.) It was formerly 



96 ORKNKV. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — Stran«rcrs still find much to conderan in the 
nagcment of the land in these parishes; but to those who recollect 
what it was forty years ago, a very great iinprovemeot, indeed, ii 
perceptible ; and now that the slavery of the kelp manufacture has 
been removed, and the free and unfettered energies of the farmen 
begin to be applied to their proper business, it may be hoped that 
twenty years hence, they will in this respect stand exposed to 
less objection on the part of their more fortunate southern neighs 
hours. 

Great part of the lands have been placed in a state of sereralty, 
and the marches betwixt different farms, as well as betwixt estates 
ascertained ; and, in many cases, good division-fences erected. 
The purchase or redemption by some of the proprietors, of the 

the custom that the women who liad attended an accouchement brought â–  pretent of 
meat next day to the lady in the straw ; — it generally consisted of a stoup fall of 
«« Rggalourie,*' and a *< cubbie** of bannocks, and wai convi7cd by stealth into the 
bed of the invalid — Cafzce, (n.) a large straw basket— Cnbhir, (n.) a small caisie. 

Dair. (v.) to make an impression — DeilOt (n.) a small patch of cultivated gromid 
.^Donialus, (adj.) impotent — DoHng, (part.) confusion, noisc^-'Dovend , (*$.) bo- 
numbed. 

Eri-oy, a great grandson — E»k, (v ) to rain a little — Ere, (n.) a small qiwntitj 
-m^Eggaiourie^ (n.) a dish of eggs and milk boiled together. 

Fatifu, (adj-) affectionate — Fole^ ("•) > small bannock — Foiidal, (adj.) procraati- 
nating — Forsal^ (v.) to harness — Frootery (n.) superstitious ol)servance9 — FHfkim, 
(adj.) melting — Fur-icanit (n.) oT the four horses formerly used abreast in the old 
Orkney plough, (he first or right hand one was called the fur horse, the second the 
fur.scam, the third the volar-sc^m, and the fourth the outend horse. 

Goc or Gio, (n.) a cave or creek into which the sea flows — Gryar-carl, (n.) a au- 
pemntural Iwing like the kelpie — Gftr^ (n) an intermission of rain — Gfofffo, (n.) 
a mixture of burstin and milk — Grummal^ crumbs, fragments— Gm/, Sir, by the 
way of address— ^wii////, (adj.) good, agreeable. 

Ilarakitn (n.) heartburn — Ileltio^ (n.) a stone with a rim of clay about it, used in 
parching corn for burstin. 

/////, (n.) anger — ///i/w, (adj.) angry. 

Ket^ (adj.) dwarfisli — Klfipie, (n.) a blow. 

LubbOf (n.) n meal measure, very neatly made of bent. 

Main, patience — Maisk^ Imshful — Mutlio a bundle of gleanings. 

Nou9t^ a duck for a boat — Noutttcr^ a landing place. 

OtWct a sewer — Orafuy glutton, greedy. 

Prrrie^ little — Pooti/^ a small cod — Pouttcd, bewitched, infatuated. 

Qtiojf, a small enclosure. 

Rrtvlvy^ ugly — Rcnzle^ to writhe with pain — Ruist, Rug, or Mur, synonymes fur 
small rain — Ruggir^ an old cod'^Rugftu, rude. 

Scatfu, inclined to steal— ^cranr/, a morsel — Scr\me^ to see an object dimly— .tVXrlo^ 
A drying-house — Smooin, sly — Snuain, a sea-weed — Suck, loose straw rubbish— 
Sucky^ untidy. 

Tirran^ ill-natured— Tlrrj^, angry — Toy, a ivoman*s cap — Tray, stiff, stul>bom— 
TraytUtcriy lasy, stupcBed— ■T'rotT) a boggle — Tutnait, piece of arable land next the 
steadintr. 

IFim^ mad, furious — UnJUirdy^ unwieldy, overgown. 

VaiTn having no appetite— Fitffmf it/, insignificant — Vitta, a short journey— FoAr, 
the spring season. 

WTo/i/, a signal— R^tfbi, hope— Trc///rnra, the devil. 

Yammelf born i n the same year. 

4 



CUOSS AND BURNER. 97 

feu-duties formerly payable in grain, and butter, and meal, to the 
Earl of Zetland, (though made at far too high a price,) has set 
them at liberty to occupy their lands in the raising of cattle and 
sheep, to which, in this mild but variable climate^ with a low 
mean temperature, they are more suited than to the production 
of grain. And farther, by the landlords fixing a money rent with 
the tenants, neither are exposed to the uncertainty and fluctuation 
of grain fiars, and the postponement ofregulartermly settlements. 
It is not the fault of the soil nor of the climate, however unfavour- 
able, nor of the industry, intelligence, or enterprise of the inha- 
bitants, that this country is so far behind the rest of Scotland. 
The excessive feu-duties, most grossly unjust in their origin, 
which were payable in kind to the donatory of the Crown, cramp- 
ed the energies of both landlord and tenant. These duties went 
out of the country like a tax making no return, and from their na- 
ture, could not even induce the great man, who received them, to 
take a patrimonial interest in it. It has often been a matter of 
wonder how little of favour or encouragement these islands have 
received at any time from the Government, when it is considered 
that the population of Orkney and Zetland exceeds that of Ber- 
wickshire, East Lothian, Roxburghshire, Dumfries-shire, and 
other counties of note and consideration ; and that there are only 
thirteen counties in Scotland which exceed these islands in popu- 
lation, and only eight which exceed them in extent of surface. 
But to return to rents in kind, they keep back improvement, and 
yet well-informed landlords are still found giving in to them, just 
to meet the scruples and prejudices of tenants. Under this sys- 
tem, the tenant will hardly ever progress ; he must remain sta- 
tionary, and can derive nothing from his farm, beyond a subsist- 
ence. In good years, his surplus payments in kind, inferior in 
quality, because he forces all his land to carry grain, do not leave 
him a remunerating price for his labour, and in bad years he is 
charged a high price for what the overwrought soil did not pro- 
duce to him. 

The middleman system of letting farms, with a multitude of 
cottars or small tenants placed at the mercy of the principal te- 
nant, is fast breaking up. Mr Laing of Papdale gave the first 
blow to this cottar system on his farm of Stove. When he began 
the improvement of this farm, he allotted to the cottars, in a dis- 
trict by themselves, three Scotch acres of arable land each, with 
about an equal quantity of grass ground ; — for this possession^ with 

ORKNEY. G 



98 ORKNEY. 

their house and yard, they paid a rent of L. 5, 5s., and ^ere left 
wholly at liberty, the only condition of their holding being the re- 
gular payment of the rent. At same time, he offered, if they 
chose to work kelp, to give them the same price for their labour, 
L.3 to L.4 per ton, which had been formerly paid to the principal 
tenant ; and such was the effect of this free system, that men con- 
sidered notoriously slothful were converted into willing and in- 
dustrious labourers, and not only was the quantity of kelp greatly 
increased, but he never wanted good and efficient workmen to hire 
at fair wages for his farming improvements. Mr Laing's example 
has been followed with success in the parish of Burness, where, by 
doing away with all services, by a moderate allowance for improve- 
ments, a little nursing, and care in helping the small tenants 
to dispose of their produce to advantage, an addition to the land 
rents, and a most evident improvement in 'the condition and ha- 
bits of the occupiers, has been effected. 

Crops. — By far the greater part of the arable lands in these pa- 
rishes are still cropped alternately with bear and oats, the enormous 
supply of sea-weed for manure keeping up the fertility of the land 
under this scourging system. Potatoes are, however, more exten- 
sively cultivated than formerly, and on some farms, turnips and 
sown grasses are introduced into the rotation. The bear is ih in- 
coated, and meals well, being white in the flour. The weight 
does not average more than 42 lbs. per bushel, unless where com- 
post has been applied, when it has reached 48 lbs. per bushel. 
Turnip and rye-grass seeds are raised, and are found to give great 
satisfaction, when sown in the southern counties. The soil is ad- 
mirably adapted to turnip husbandry, and most splendid crops of 
this valuable esculent may now be seen growing, where a short time 
since, rabbits alone had possession of the soil. In many places 
throughout the island, where steadings have been of old, large 
heaps of rich mould are to be found. These seem to have been the 
accumulations of the farm manure of many a year, during times 
when the people were too indolent or too prejudiced to apply it to 
the soil ; and it is even in the recollection of the writer, that a te- 
nant of a large farm held his cottars bound, as a service once a 
year, to clean his dung court, and convey the manure as a nuisance, 
to the sea-beach, and he has witnessed the wilful burning of the 
straw, from which forty bolls of grain had been thrashed. 

In improving the sand links or rabbit warrens, these accumula- 
tions become a must important auxiliary, for, being trenched and 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 99 

exposed to the frost and the vivifying effects of the air, and after- 
wards mixed with small kelp and a sufficient quantity of fresh sea- 
weed to melt it, they form compost, by means of which a great ex- 
tent of the most unpromising rabbit links is converted into a flou- 
rishing turnip-field, where properly selected grass seeds are sure to 
thrive with the next crop. The grass seeds found to suit best for 
such land, are two bushels of perennial ryegrass ; one bushel of 
mixed timothy and cocksfoot ; six pounds of ribgrass ; and six 
pounds of white clover per acre. The Rev. Waller Traill of Wes- 
tove, has cultivated lucerne in such land with success. Cabbages 
manured with the sea-weed are also raised to great size ; the com- 
mon Scotch grey reaching a weight of fourteen pounds each plant. 

Stock, — The horses used for carriage and draught are good har- 
dy ponies of from 14 to 15 hands high; many oxen are employed 
in carting sea- weed ; and the cattle generally are improving in 
weight and quality. The Neapolitan, the Berkshire, and other im- 
proved breeds of swine have been introduced, and considerable num- 
bers are yearly exported alive to Aberdeen and Peterhead. The 
native breed of sheep, which are kept on tether during the summer, 
and roam at large over the fields and round the shores, where they 
eat sea- weed in winter, are not yet extinct, but their numbers are 
much thinned. They are the short-tailed sheep of Iceland, Shet- 
land, and the Hebrides. In 1808, Malcolm Laing of Papdale 
introduced the Merino breed on his property of Stove, and pur- 
chased rams at high prices from some of the best flocks in the 
kingdom. They were crossed with Cheviots, and they succeeded 
most satisfactorily. Mr Laing, one year, it is said, received 7s. 
6d. per pound for some of his wool. The wool of clip 1811 of the 
lambs of some Orkney ewes by a Merino ram, was considered by 
a wool stapler from Yorkshire, better worth 2s. 8d. per pound, than 
the wool of the Orkney dams of these lambs was worth 8d. ; and 
the quantity being about double, made a difference of 9s. 4d. 
between the fleece of our Orkney ewe and that of her lamb by a 
Merino tup at shearing time ; a sum equal to the value of the 
ewe fleece and carcass altogether. Mr Laing found the Orkney 
cross assimilated faster in fleece than the Cheviot did; but the 
cross with the Orkney was inferior in carcass to that with the Che- 
viot* 

Poultry of all kinds thrive well, and are numerous and cheap. 

* AgricuHural Report of the Orkney Islands, by John Shirreff, 1814. 



100 ORKNEY. 

Wages, — The wages of a good ploughman are L. 7, 7s. of money, 
with six bolls of meal, and milk and rabbits. But the greater nuni« 
ber of farm-servants are employed on the farms for the winter half* 
year only, for which their wages are from L. 2, 10s. to L.3, and 
tliey are fed and lodged in the family. Women-servants receive 
from L. 2, lOs. to L. 3 per annum ; but as they are much engag- 
ed at home in the plaiting of rye-straw for bonnets, they are un« 
willing to work in the field, and are generally employed only in 
the care of cattle or as house-servants. Day-labourers are paid 
from Is. to Is. 3^1. per day, but, as already observed, very few are 
thus engaged for money wages, and, as a labourer cannot obtain 
employment on day's wages throughout the year, there is found to 
be a scarcity of them when a job occurs for which they are re- 
quired. 

Fisheries. — There are in Cross and Burness fourteen boats en* 
gaged in fishing lobsters ; and fifteen boats and sloops fishing cod 
and herrings, besides numerous small boats. It has been observ- 
ed that the inhabitants of Sanday are only beginning to devote at- 
tention to the fisheries ; but it may not be out of place here to state 
the quantity of cod caught, cured, and dried in the north isles of 
Orkney, during the present season, 1840. 

In the island of Westray, ----- 120 tons. 

Kday, ---.-- 109 

Stronsay, . - . . . 30 

Sliapinshay, - .... 65 

North llonnldshay, . - . . ]0 

Cross and Burne$s, Sanday, . . - J 4 

Lady parish, i\o, .... Q 

Konsay and adjacent Islc^, including sundry small parcels 
from sonic of the inlands already named, which were sc. 
paralcly sold and shipped, ... 90 

In all, - . 444 tons. 



Which were so^d by the fishermen themselves for about - L. 5400 

When to this is added the value of herrings caught and delivered 
to curers at Stronsay by North Isles boats, which the writer of this 
article has no means at hand of correctly ascertaining, but which 
could hardly be less than an equal sum, he thinks that it will be 
allowed that the inhabitants of these islands bid fair to do away 
with the character for supineness and indolence in regard to fish- 
ing, which has been liberally bestowed upon them by those who 
were either unacquainted with them, or made no sufficient allowance 
for their peculiar circumstances. As the cure of cod was almost 
unknown in Orkney previous to the appointment of fishery- officers 
to oversee and direct it, the Orkney men had no bad habits, in 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 101 

this respect, to get rid of, and they have so closely followed the 
excellent directions which have been given them, that their 6sh 
are acknowledged equal, if not superior, to any that come to mar- 
ket. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State. — Of the population, there are adherents of 
tlie Established church, of all ages, in both parishes, 81 0. Of these 
447 are communicants. 

The adherents of Dissenters of all ages are 181 ; of these, 96 
communicate with the United Associate Seceders, who have their 
meeting-house in Lady parish, and 3 are Anabaptists. There is 
one parish church in Cross and another in Burness, and divine 
service is performed in each on the alternate Sundays. 'J'his is a 
source of great inconvenience both to minister and people. There 
are in both parishes 102 families further than two miles ; 64 families 
further than four miles; and 28 families further than six miles distant 
from one of the churches ; and this tends much to prevent, on the 
part of the people, a regular Sabbatical attendance at either place 
of worship. But supposing the people were in general able, as 
they are very willing, to give a regular weekly attendance, there 
would still be the serious and palpable want of church accommo- 
dation, for the church of Cross has only 248 sittings, and that of 
Burness, including those of the passage, 262. To accommodate, 
therefore, two-thirds of the church adherents, 292 more sittings 
are awanting in Cross church, and in Burness, 278. Indeed, 
neither of the churches can accommodate even the communicants 
of the establishment The remedy for this, evil would be either 
the erection of one convenient church for both parishes in a cen- 
tral situation, or dividing the parishes quoad sacra^ and appointing a 
pastor to each. 

The manse is rather an old house, but kept in good repair by 
the heritors. It is situated in Cross parish, and there is a glebe 
of about twenty acres, with garden and offices attached. The 
other glebe in Burness parish, which is rented for L.10 or L.12, 
has been already noticed. The stipend, payable almost entirely 
in money, including L.66, 7s. 4d. drawn from the Island of North 
Ronaldshay, formerly united with these parishes, amounts, with 
allowance for communion elements, to L.210. 

Education. — There is only one parochial school in the island, 
situated at the junction of the three parishes, and there is no other 
school in Cross or Burness, though female schools are much 



102 ORKNEY. 

wanted. The parochial schoolmasters salary is LAS, 14s. 4|d., 
and the average yearly amount of school fees received is LblO. 
The average number of scholars attending the parochial school is 53. 

Poor. — The number of poor persons receiving aid from the 
session in Cross is 13, and in Bumess, 1 1 ; and the sum dis- 
tributed to each has been 2s. 6d. The amount of collections 
for the poor at the churches has been L. 5, 10s. yearly, which, 
with a donation of L. 1, Is. from Mr Balfour of Trenaby, has 
formed the amount of the provision for the poor, excepting 
that there is, on Mr Laing's property of Stove, a mortiBcation 
by the proprietor of four small cotts or farms, worth now L.5, 
5s. each of yearly rent, for supporting four superannuated ser- 
vants, who spend thirty years in constant service on the princi- 
pal farms ; failing whom, the session are empowered to draw the 
rent for behoof of the poor upon the farm of Stove in the first in- 
stance, and, in lack of them, for the general poor of the parish. 
The charity has not latterly been well administered, and hardly 
any one of the persons now in possession of the iarms are'paupers 
of the description contemplated by Mr Fea, the benevolent mort- 
gager, nor are they entitled to hold them. 

FueL — There are no peat-mosses in the Island of Sanday, and 
the inhabitants of Cross and Bumess are consequently ill supplied 
with fuel. Each family endeavours to procure a boat or more of 
peats from the neighbouriDg Island of Eday, to which the cottar 
adds prepared cow and horse dung, and the larger tenants coals 
from the Frith of Forth or Newcastle. 

Miscellaneous Observations* 
It is evident that these parishes are still capable of very great 

improvement. Steam-navigation, which has now reached Kirk- 
wall, were it also brought through the islands, would do much, by 
making the transit of grain, cattle, and other produce free from 
the uncertainty attending sailing-vessels. But perhaps the most 
hopeful prospect of improvement would be from the sale of some 
of the estates now in the market to men of capital and enterprise. 
A few tenants from improved districts are also wanted, not theo- 
rising speculative gentlemen farmers, who might cavil and carp 
at things as they are, without knowing how to mend them ; but 
hard-working sure-going men, with sufficient capital, and with 
common sense enough to make their plans conform to soil, cli- 
mate, and circumstances; in fact, just such characters as are 
usually described to be the most suitable for emigrating to the 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 1C3 

colonies ; and it has often struck the writer as wonderful, that 
young farmers, as well as men of capital, should attempt the 
back woods of Canada, or expose themselves to the privations of 
dry and scorching seasons in Australia, when such good opportu- 
nities for tuniing their skill to account, and for investing their ca- 
pital, were to be found so much nearer home, in a comparatively 
mild climate, and among a people proverbially kind to strangers, 
and generally as well-informed and as companionable as any in 
Scotland. 



North Ronaldsha.* — The Rev. Adam White, Minister. 

Extent, §•{?. — The island of North Ronaldsha, the most nor- 
therly of the Orkney group, is separated from the island of San- 
day by a frith of about three miles broad where narrowest ; and lies 
upwards of thirty miles from Kirkwall, nearly in the direction of 
north-east In form, the island is very irregular, but never ex- 
ceeds two miles in breadth, and, in length, measures about five 
miles from the two extreme points, though there are scarcely four 
between the two most remote dwelling-houses. It is calculated 
to contain about four square miles. On the south and east sides 
of the island, where the beach is for the most part low, shelving 
and sandy, the shape is probably much altered from what it ori- 
ginally was, as a considerable extent of ground seems to have 
been gained from the sea by the gradual accumulation of sand, 
which is every winter drifted up from the beach, and spreads over 
the grounds above. The west and north-west sides are rocky and 
abrupt, though not very elevated, and there is often such a heavy 
surf breaking upon the rocks, that the spray renders the land, to 
the distance of some hundred yards, quite black and sterile. To- 
wards the north-east, the shores of the island are, in some measure, 
protected by two reefs of rocks, called the altars of Lina and the 
Shelky Skerry. 

Topographical Appearance. — The general surface of the island 
is rather flat, having only a gentle rise toward the middle. It is 
much above the average of the other islands in point of dryness, 
and, with the exception of a small strip about the middle, and an 
edging round the shore, kept as a lair for sheep, it is all in a state 
of cultivation. Its superior dryness it owes very much to the large 

* Drawn up by the Rev. Adam White, Minister of the parish. 



l04 ORKNEY. 

mixture of shell-sand found in its soil, and partly also to there 
being proper declivities for the water discharging itself into the 
sea. 

There are but three bays ; the South bay, Ness bay (on the 
south-east side), and Linket bay (on the east.) None of these 
aro safe anchorages, and, excepting in mild weather, no vessel can 
remain upon the coast The chief headlands are Twingas, Strom- 
ness, Brides-ness, and Dennis-ness. 

Zoology, — The fish which are found on the shores or in the neigh- 
bouring seas, are such as are common to all Orkney. Those which 
are most frequently caught for home consumption, are siliks and 
cuthcs, — the coal-fish, I believe, in the first and second years of their 
existence ; and those which are caught for the market, are lobsters 
and cod. The Shelky Skerry mentioned above is much frequented 
by the great seal or Phoca major. There are always some about it ; 
but in winter, great numbers occasionally arrive from the north seas, 
and sometimes bring forth their young upon the rock. The islanders 
are on the watch, and often secure the strangers by going out in 
a midnight ex|>edition with clubs, on which occasions they have 
been known to kill as many as three score. A successful expedi- 
tion of this kind is a matter of no small rejoicing, as a good sup- 
ply of oil is obtained from the seal. 

A great variety of birds frequent the island, but none of them are 
of a rare description, unless perhaps the red-necked phalarope 
( Tringa hgperboreajj which visits North Konaldsha in consider- 
able numbers about the middle of June, and departs early in Sep- 
tember. It makes its nest among the reeds about the lochs, and 
lays four eggs of a dingy olive colour with brown spots. It is pretty 
tame, and allows its motions, which are very graceful, to be observed 
at a small distance. After north-east gales of some continuance, 
many strange birds are occasionally found, such as the goatsucker, 
the golden-crested wren, the cuckoo, and the snowy owl. 

II. — Civil History. 
The island is wholly the property of William Traill, Esq. 
of Woodwick, who, however, does not reside upon it. It appears 
anciently to have been divided into three nearly equal parts, — the 
mounds which formed the division, and which are of a considerable 
height and breadth, being still almost uninjured. The only other 
things which bear the appearance of antiquity, are the remains 
(all under ground) of an old castle, called still Burrion Castle, and 
a large erect flat stone, rising ten or twelve feet perpendicular 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 105 

above the ground, much the same in size and appearance as those 
found in other parts of Orkney, especially in the parish of Firth 
and Stenness. Concerning the one here, there is no tradition either 
as to its original use or the period of its erection. 

III. — Population. 

Habits of the People. — The customs of the people are much 
the same as those prevalent in other parts of Orkney. One only 
seems to be quite peculiar, and is almost uniformly observed at 
funerals, — the nearest of kin present being always expected to throw 
upon the coffin the first spadeful of earth. In the case of near re* 
latives, this comes to be a very painful service ; but it is regarded 
as a sacred duty, and is not declined even by the most afflicted 
widow. What may have been the origin of the practice, it is per- 
haps impossible to ascertain ; but now, it is evidently considered as 
a proper mark of tenderness and respect towards the deceased. 

It is reported in the former Statistical Account, that the popu- 
lation was then (1791) 420, — 2 1 1 males and 209 females. By 
the census taken in 1831, the population was 522, — 247 males 
and 275 females ; exhibiting an increase in forty years of 102 in- 
habitants. The amount in April 1 836 did not exceed 480, which 
is owing to a new division of the lands having been made in 1832, 
when the number of houses was reduced, and about eighty persons 
left the island. 

The total number of families, - - - - 112 

inhabited houses, - - - - 85 

The yearly average of births for the last five years, (not having data to go far- 
ther back), ---.-. 18 

The yearly average of marriages, - - - - 3 

deaths, - - • - • 6| 

Number or unmarried men above 50 years of age, - - 

widowers, - • - - - - 8 

unmarried women above 45, - - - 5 

These facts will be found to speak very highly for the general 
healthfulness and prosperity of the population of the island. There 
is not a single person at the cige of fifty, who has not felt himself 
able, or at least thought he was so, to support a wife and family, 
all who have reached that age being married ; and what is perhaps 
still more extraordinary, out of the whole number, three only are 
widowers, and these very old men, while there are but five females, 
who may be said to be without hope of marriage. Then look to the 
small number of deaths as compared with the number of births, the 
one being little more than one-third of the other ; and what is most 
extraordinary of all, the small number of deaths in proportion to the 
whole population. The rate of mortality, judging from the last 



106 ORKNEY. 

five years, is only 1 in 77. The average number of the popula- 
tion in each year has been, as nearly as possible, 495 ; and even 
taking 7 as the average number of deaths, it makes the rate of 
mortality 70f • This almost exceeds credibility ; but there is one 
thing to be mentioned in explanation of it, which is, that there are 
some persons, almost every year, leaving the island inquest of em- 
ployment, who seldom return to reside in it, while there are none 
coming from other places to reside here. Consequently, the nam* 
ber of deaths in the island will scarcely give a correct representa- 
tion of the deaths of those who belong to it. This, however, could 
not affect the rate of mortality very much ; and by employing a 
different method for ascertaining the rate, taking the average age 
of the persons who have died during the period in question, it is 
still brought up to 62. The facts will fully substantiate this pro- 
portion. The people are uncommonly healthy and robust. Ex- 
cepting a very few who die in infancy, — and these seldom exceed- 
ing one in the twelvemonth, — deaths among the young are exceed- 
ingly rare. By far the greatest number of deaths take place on 
those who have reached sixty-five or upwards ; and yet compara- 
tively few outlive eighty. Occasional instances of very great lon- 
gevity will bo found no test of the general healthfulness of the po- 
pulation, or of the average term of life ; and it is precisely among 
a population like that of this island, that these attain their maxi- 
mum, where all arc accustomed to laborious occupations and ex- 
posure to every kind of weather, which tend, in the first instancoi 
to render the bodily frame hardy and robust, and, at the same time, 
prevent it from reaching an extreme old age. 

There is a great deal of native politeness and much kindness 
of heart among the people ; but in domestic comforts, they are 
certainly far behind the general run of peasantry in the southern 
districts; — not that they are generally more deficient in the ma- 
terials of comfort, — for every house almost has two or more 
cows, a pig, several sheep, and abundance of poultry. But there 
is a great want of neatness and cleanliness in the management 
of household matters, so that their condition has nothing of 
the tidy and comfortable appearance of what is now to be met 
with in houses of a like description in the south. And for any ef- 
fectual improvement in this respect, there are two formidable bar- 
riers in the way, which are not likely soon to be overcome. The 
women have much work to do out of doors, a species of work, too, 
which peculiarly unfits them for the neat management of house- 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 107 

hold concerns, such as cutting sea-weed for kelp, carrying up ware 
for manure on their backs, and spreading it on the land ; and be- 
sides, the construction of their houses is very unfavourable, which 
are not only not plastered but not even built with lime,, and seldom 
have any semblance of a chimney even upon the roof, — while, for 
the sake of having each part of the house supplied with an equal 
share of heat, the fire-place is most commonly planted in the mid<- 
dle of the floor. The smoke consequently finds its way in every 
direction, and to keep either the walls or the utensils in a state of 
proper cleanliness, is next to impossible. Yet the present form of 
houses is much superior to what was possessed by the last genera- 
tion ; and this form may soon perhaps give way to another in a 
higher state of improvement. 

The greatest natural discomfort, however, under which the in- 
habitants of this island labour, is the scarcity of fuel. There are 
no peats in it, nor any to be found nearer than the Island of Eday, 
which is fifteen miles distant. Of course, very few are able.to sup* 
ply themselves with fuel of that description ; a considerable num- 
ber get a partial supply ; making up the deficiency with cow-dung 
converted into what are called scons^ and the stronger kind of sea- 
weed. Many can afford nothing but the two last, and in cold 
weather they are often in a very comfortless condition. This is 
an evil beyond remedy, as there is not the least chance of the 
bulk of the population ever being able to lay in a sufficient provi- 
sion either of coals or of peats. 

There are no blind, deaf, or dumb in the island, and but two 
idiots, and one fatuous person. . 

IV. — Industry. 
The island is altogether of an agricultural character. With 
the exception of two weavers and one tailor, there are none who 
do not spend the chief part of their time in the labours of the field. 
The subdivision of labour is here only in its infancy. Most of the 
men are able to sew, and at leisure hours make or repair their 
every-day clothes. The wool, out of which these are made, is all 
carded and spun on the little wheel by the women, who are for 
the most part exceedingly industrious. And besides the three re- 
gular men of handicraft above-mentioned, there are a good many 
who work occasionally as smiths, carpenters, and boat- builders; 
but they have all farms or shares in farms, to which they chiefly 
look for their subsistence ; and even the three who are the most 
exclusive in their employments, always shear in harvest and go 



108 ORKNEY. 

out to some of the Gsheries in summer. This mixture of employ* 
ments is not favourable either to great skill or to much profit in 
any particular department : but with such a limited field, and es- 
pecially surrounded with so many who have both the leisure and 
the inclination in most things to help themselves, it is scarcely 
possible for any one to gain a sufiicient livelihood by confining 
himself to any single occupation. 

In the last Statistical Account, ninety-four persons were stated ta 
be engaged in agriculture, and nineteen in fishing. This division^ 
however, was formed, not because there was a complete distinction 
between the two classes of persons, but because their principal sup- 
port was derived from these respective occupations. Judging by 
the outlay of time, all of them might be designated as agricultu- 
rists, — as, during eight months in the year, their main employment 
is connected with husbandry. But in this, younger brothers and 
sometimes other relatives give their work for their food, while for 
every thing besides they must be indebted to the lobster and her- 
ring-fisheries ; and these, therefore, may with propriety be named 
from the occupation which yields them most advantage. There 
are also about a dozen employed as farm- servants, and two men 
who are called millers, though a large part of their time is spent 
otherwise, the one as a smith, the other as a carpenter. 

These are the only divisions that subsist among the inhabitants 
of this island. There is no merchant, no baker, no shoemaker, 
no innkeeper ; and the consolation of being without the last, is al- 
most enough to reconcile one to the inconvenience arising from the 
absence of the rest. This is an inconvenience felt only by the 
few, who are in the habit of using things, which the island itself 
does not furnish, and a little care and experience soon teaches them 
how to provide against it. 

Agriculture, — The cultivated part of the island has never been 
exactly measured ; but about a fourth only of the whole surface 
is waste, the greater part of which is the portion along the west 
and north-west side, which is rendered sterile by the spray. This 
portion may therefore be regarded as hopelessly sterile. But the 
small tract in the interior, which is still unreclaimed, is now divided 
off, and promises in a few years to be all in a state of cultivation. 

Rental, — The whole rental of the island is nearly L. 500. 

The sort of farms and the style of farming which prevail here, 

are rather of a primitive nature. With the exception of one farm, 

which pays a rent of about L. 80, ther&is none that exceeds L.25, 

3 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 109 

and the greater part are much below this. It was the policy 
of the landlords in this country to subdivide the land, and encou- 
rage the increase of population as much as possible, for the pur- 
pose of obtaining a sufficient number of labourers to manufac- 
ture the kelp ; and now when they would fain adopt an opposite 
policy, and enlarge the size of their farms, the excess of popula- 
tion meets them with an insuparable difficulty. Until a few years 
ago, indeed, there was no such thing as a separate and distinct farm 
in this island ; it was divided into five townships or districts, each 
containing a considerable number of houses scattered up and down, 
amongst which the land, both pasture and arable, was'equally di- 
vided; and that none might have the advantage of another, not only 
was every plot of arable ground divided, but an exchange made 
every year, — so that improvement was impossible, and the indus- 
trious had no encouragement for their industry. In 1832, this 
system was wisely broken up, and the whole island squared off into 
little farms, lying contiguous to the several houses. A new and 
higher scale of rents was, at the same time, agreed upon, which ren- 
dered the measure unpopular; but considerable allowances were for 
some years to be made for improvements in drains and enclo- 
sures, of which the more industrious have so far availed themselves, 
as both greatly to improve their farms, and to pay their rent with- 
out much difficulty. But excepting on the larger farm, and par- 
tially on one or two others, there is no regular rotation kept Up. 
The land is alternately cropped with bear and oats — a mode of 
cultivation which is not likely to be soon abandoned, as it is much 
favoured by the large quantities of sea-weed drifted to the shore, 
and almost rendered necessary by the demand for winter fodder 
to their cattle. They can consequently grow nothing but the in- 
ferior kinds of grain, bear, or bigg, and the small grey or black 
oat. About 1500 bolls of the former are raised, and 1200 of the 
latter; and of these quantities nearly one-third is exported. The 
bear commonly weighs 44 lbs. per bushel ; after turnips it has been 
found to weigh as high as 48 lbs. ; and the oats are generally from 
25 to 28 lbs. 

Although, however, the old system of alternate cropping is still 
prevalent, great improvements in farming have taken place during 
the last twelve years, chiefly owing to the good example and ju« 
dicious management of the gentleman, (Mr Robert Scarth,) who, 
during that period, has been acting as factor on the property. 
There was then but one cart in the island, which was never used. 



110 ORKNEY. 

as the horse showed some disiDclinatioD to go into it ; only 
one two -stilted plough, no inclosures, and both horses and cattle 
were exceedingly small and trifling. The latter have been much 
improved by crosses from Dunrobin bulls, and are now equal to 
the average show of cattle in Orkney. The horses are also greatly 
improved in size and strength. Enclosures are to be seen on every 
side, completed or in progress. Every house is furnished with a 
neat and well-made plough, commonly of wood, but sometimes 
also of iron — a valuable substitute, indeed, for the old one*sttlted 
shapeless thing they used before, which rather broke up the ground 
than turned it over. And a still greater advantage is derived from 
the introduction of carts, with one or more of which every house 
is now supplied. Before, every thing had to be carried on horse- 
back, either in sacks or in a sort of wooden creels, which they 
used for bringing up their ware to the land, and such other articles 
as could not be put into sacks. In this way an immense deal of 
time was lost, which they can now save and turn to good ac- 
count. So that, in an agricultural point of view, the island at 
present stands upon a far better footing, than it did twelve years 

ago- 

The only other thing to be noticed under this head is the con- 
dition of the sheep, which is just as bad as can well be conceived. 
With the exception of a very few kept on the largest farm for 
killing, they are all shut outby a high dike, which encompasses 
the whole island to the mere shores, and a little bit of waste ground 
left for them here and there. Their sole food almost, is the sea- 
weed that^happens to be drifted ashore, and as this comes most 
plentifully during winter, that is their fattening season, especially 
before the^cold weather of the new year sets in. They are chiefly 
kept for the wool, from which all that is worn in every-day cloth- 
ing is manufactured ; but every house has a practice of killing one 
on yule or Christmas eve, which goes by the name of the yule 
sheep. And on the forenoon of that day, there is a great gather- 
ing, at a certain place, of all the men and sheep in the island, for 
the selection of the several victims! 

Fisheries. — The only fisheries that are carried on with a view 
to the market, are those of lobster, herring, and cod. In the 
first, six boats, each having two men, are engaged every year from 
about the beginning of May to the middle of June. The fish are 
sold to a London Company, whose welled smacks call for them 
regularly once a week, at a place about ten miles distant, in the 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 11] 

adjoining island of Sanday. The price given varies from 3d. to 
S^d per fish : and it is reckoned a fair fishing, when each boat catch- 
es about 600 fish. 

To the herring-fishing fourteen boats are furnished by the 
island, all above 24 and some of^ them 28 feet keeL They 
have been built by two workmen in the island, who are in a great 
measure self-taught; and they are considered thestrongest and finest 
boats in Orkney. They are all held in shares, each the property 
of four men, who man them ; and sometimes a young person is 
hired in as a fifth hand. As boatmen, they are not deficient either 
in skill or boldness ; but they have never been very successful in 
the fishery, and the last two years have been so unfavourable, that 
many have not gained as much as is sufficient to cover their out- 
lay. The station they frequent is in Stronsay, th&only one for 
the cure of herrings in the north Isles of Orkney. 

Until the summer of the year 1836, the cod-fishing had scarcely 
ever been tried here ; the people having usually been employed in 
making kelp, during the part of the season most suitable for that. 
The greatest drawback the island has to contend with, in carry- 
ing on any fishery that requires large boats, is the want of a safe 
anchorage. The men are obliged to draw up their boats in the pro- 
spect of bad weather, or shift them from one side of the island to 
another, — both of which are the cause of great trouble and in- 
convenience. 

Manufactures, — The only kind of manufacture carried on in the 
island, is kelp. As many as 120 tons have been made in one year, 
tliough the average would not exceed 100. To get even that 
quantity requires considerable pushing on the part of the land- 
lord ; and now that he has no inducement to do so, the average 
will be still less. The kelp from this island had always a high 
character in the market, and has commanded a sale every year 
as yet, though latterly at very low prices. But as long as it can 
be sold without any actual loss, it will still be an object for the 
landlord to get it made ; as nearly one-third of the rental is made 
up by the allowances given for the manufacture of this article, 
which, but for this, would remain unpaid. The allowance given 
is at the rate of L. 2, 2s. per ton. A man with his family will 
make a ton and a-half in ordinary seasons. It has been lately dis- 
covered that the kelp made of drift sea-weed, is valuable for the 
iodine it contains, and for that purpose is worth L. 4 per ton. 



112 ORKNEY. 

But it is only about a sixth part of the whole kelp of this island, that 
is made of drift sea-weed. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
This island had always been a separate parish, until lately com- 
bined with other two, Cross and Burness, in the neighbouring island 
of Sanday, under one charge. The clergymen having to travel a dis- 
tance of not less than four miles by land and six by sea, it was impos- 
sible there could be regular ministrations in the island, or any pro* 
per pastoral superintendence established. Indeed, as to all the be- 
nefits of a regular ministry, the people might be said to be total 
strangers; and being besides nearly all on a level among themselves, 
no one, from his superior wealth or station in society, to command 
an influence over the rest, they afforded an example of a people in 
the common ranks of life, very much left to their own discretion. 
There were a few things, however, to temper and modify the na- 
tural result of such a state of things. Each district had its elder, 
who was commonly a person of Respectability and worth, and was 
allowed a considerable weight in the settlement of disputes. Then, 
proudly elevated above these stood the bailie^ the acknowledged 
head of all the natives, and looked up to with no small respect ; 
who was appointed to the honourable distinction by the landlord, 
and was generally chosen with impartiality. The last one, who 
died only two years ago, and with whom the office also expired, 
was a person of great reading for one in his rank of life, and was 
in the habit pretty regularly of reading a sermon to the people on 
Sunday, and conducting a Sabbath school. This certainly was 
productive of some good, though not so much as might be suppos- 
ed, — the authority being still wanting, which was necessary to 
enforce, on the part of the people, a proper attention. Besides 
these authorities, the factor occasionally resided on the island, and 
an annual visit was paid by the landlord ; but their stay was too 
short and irregular to have much influence in moulding the habits 
and characters of the people. 

In ] 829, a manse was erected on the island, under the Commis- 
sioners for Planting New Churches in the Islands and Highlands, 
and in the following year a clergyman was ordained. The island 
was then virtually erected into a separate parochial charge, though 
it was not constituted such till the summer of 1833. Great joy 
was testified by the people at the settlement of a minister among 
them. 

There used to be a good deal of pilfering, when a shipwreck 



CROSS AND BURNESS. 113 

took place, — which was not looked upon as proper stealing. Many 
persons thought themselves at liberty to appropriate goods of that 
description, who were never known to steal an article from their 
neighbours. A good deal had been done to check the evil by the 
vigorous measures of Mr Scarth ; but the discipline of the church 
was required to put an effectual stop to it. A very different feel- 
ing now prevails upon the subject. Shipwrecked property has 
come to be regarded as personal property ; and people who were 
once in the habit of taking it without shame or remorse, express 
openly the change that has taken place in their views* At the 
last two or three wrecks, scarcely any thing was stolen. 

During the winter season, it was customary to carry on a perpe- 
tual succession of merry-makings, called balls. Every marriage, 
was the occasion of two — the bride's friends being at the expense 
of the wedding-feast, and the best-man feeling himself called upon 
to give the back-feast^ which occurred a month or two after the 
wedding, and in which he was assisted by contributions from some 
of the other young men in the immediate neighbourhood. Be- 
sides these regular meetings, a great many more were added to fill 
up the void. Their moral effect was decidedly pernicious in va- 
rious ways ; but the kirk-session having interfered, little or no ex« 
cess of this kind takes place. 

By the same interference smuggling may now be said to be al- 
most, if not completely abolished. 

In general habits, the people are, now at least, remarkably de- 
cent and sober. 

Education. — There is a school in the island supported by the 
Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. 



ORKNEY. H 



PARISH OF WESTRAY. 

PRESBYTERY OF NORTH ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. JOHN ARMIT, MINISTER, 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Westray obviously derives its name from tha place 

it holds among the group of islands which lie to the north of the 

mainland of Orkney, called North Isles. It is situated in the 

north-west extremity of the country, and is the isle farthest west 

of the group. 

Extent. — Its superficial contents may amount to about 25 square 
miles. But, owing to its very irregular form, its numerous inlets, 
and projecting points, its precise dimensions cannot be ascertained 
but by an experienced surveyor. In the centre, and towards the 
eastern parts, the sur&ce, with few exceptions, is low and flat ; 
but in the Rapness district, which forms the southern extremity, 
the ground on the north or north-east suddenly rises, which makes 
the shore in that quarter bold and lofty. The precipices there 
may be from 140 to 150 feet above the level of the sea. 

Topographical Appearances. — In the western extremity, there is 
a range of hills called Skea, Fitty, and Gallo, &c. extending from 
south to north, to the distance of four miles and upwards. On Fitty, 
the highest of these, the trigonometrical surveyors, in the autumn 
of 1821, pitched their tents, and erected a temporary building, 
which remains nearly entire. The height of this hill, as then ascer- 
tained, was, to the best of my recollection, 652 feet above the level 
of the sea. The island on the western extremity, to the distance 
of more than four miles, is bounded by a shore of perpendicular 
rock, washed by the floods of the Atlantic. At its base, from which 
the sea never recedes, a few places only excepted, the depth is 
from eight to twenty fathoms. All along the lofty and rugged 
clifls of this shore, an immense variety of sea fowl nestle and bring 
forth their young ; and numbers of the young and old birds, dur- 
ing the season of incubation, are taken by the inhabitants, both 
for food and their feathers, which they turn to good account. 

3 



WE ST RAY. 115 

Caverns. — Here, besides many curious excavations in the appa- 
rently solid rock, are to be seen subterraneous caverns, formed by 
the influx and reflux of the sea. In some of these, the water at 
high tide, and in tempestuous weather, is forced up through nar- 
row crevices of the rock to the distance of nearly a quarter of a 
mile landward, and bursting out at the surface from oriflces of its 
own formation, springs up in the air to a surprizing height 

Among ihe natural curiosities of the kind here to be met with, 
that called the Fort, evidently formed by the action of the sea, 
may not be deemed unworthy of notice. This remarkable place 
is situated in the northern boundary of that part of the island 
called Akemess, the property of Dr George Traill of Skail. 
Here, standing upon a lofty precipice, you see, underneath, an 
immense caldron in perpetual agitation, from which a hideous 
and gorging noise ever and anon ascends, stunning the ear. You 
can walk nearly half-way round this mighty caldron, on high 
pillars of solid rock, arched over with the same solid material. 
One or two broken or separated columns, standing out furthest in 
the circle, from which the arches seem to have been swept away 
by the agitated element, heightens very much the grandeur of the 
scene, and gives to it an appearance truly picturesque. It is said 
to bear a strong resemblance to the Bullers of Buchan, on the 
Aberdeen coast. 

Bai/8, — Besides numerous small creeks and inlets, which indent 
the shores of Westray, there are at least three or four which come 
under the description of bays, namely, the Bay of Tookquoy, Pi- 
crowall, Noop, and Rapness. The Bay of Tookquoy is broad 
and long, the distance between the headlands being between 
four and five miles, — and long, penetrating about five miles into 
the bosom of the island, and gradually narrowing as it ascends, 
until it terminates in a shore of about one mile, or three-quarters 
of a mile broad. It is all over a sandy bottom, and is esteemed 
good anchoring ground ; but the depth of water is too shallow for 
admitting, to the safe and proper station, vessels of a large size. 
It is, moreover, quite unsafe for a road-stead, as it lies expos- 
ed to gales from the south and south-west, which cause a heavy 
sea over the whole bay to its inmost extremity. Only boats and 
craft of the smallest size can harbour safely here, and that, too, 
not until they get round at the head of the bay into a small basin, 
called by the inhabitants the Use, and defended from the sea beach 
by a bank of sand and stones. 



116 ORKNEY. 

The Bay of Picrowall is quite of a different descriptioD.* It is 
a remarkably fine basin, not above three-quarters of a mile broad 
at the entrance, but within wide and spacious, and nearly of a 
circular form. The bottom is sand, and excellent anchoring 
ground. The place being completely land-locked, any vessel 
moored in it is quite safe from every point of wind. But it is also 
too ebb for admitting vessels of a very large size. It may be 
deemed safe for all below 200 tons burden, but not above that 
size. 

The Bay of Noop, which faces the north, lies quite open and 
exposed to the fury of the Atlantic. With a gale blowing on shore, 
there is no safety for any vessel entering this bay ; and not a few 
have met their sad fate from a reef of rocks that lie quite across 
the bay, called the Bow of RackwicL 

The Bay of Rapness, at the opposite extremity of the island, 
looks to tliQ south, and is also an open bay, and therefore far from 
being a safe one, especially when the wind blows from any point 
touching the south or south-east. 

Headlands. — The principal headlands around this isle are the 
Noop-head, or the stack of Noop, on the north ; the flag of Inno- 
* val on the west ; the Knowe of Skae on the south-west ; the Neve 
or Ness of Ackerness on the north-east ; the Point of Rapness on 
the south-east; and Weatherness on the north-east, in the south- 
ern extremity of the island. In the Island of Papay, as there are 
DO bays, there may be said to be no headlands of any note. 

Meteorology. — The temperature of Westray may be said to be 
much on a par with that of the other islands or the country at 
large. The medium heat will be found to amount to 45° ; the 
range of the thermometer, between the extremes of cold in winter 
and heat in summer, from 25^ to 75^; and that of the barometer, 
three inches. 

Hydrography. — This island is bounded on the south by a frith 
rapid and broad, which separates it from the Island of Rousay and 
Eglishay by a distance of about eight miles. It is called Westray 
Frith, and has its strength of current from the Atlantic rolling into 
it from the west, and the German Ocean from the east One 
part of it is peculiarly dangerous, as, at a certain time of the 
tide, the last of the ebb, contrary currents meet, and rolling up 

* There being originally a small pier erected at the head of the bay for boats the 
adjacent district is ciuJed Wall,— hence Pier.o*-wall. 

4 



WESTRAY. 117 

into tremendous breakers, render it a fearful gulf. The tideway 
in this frith is reckoned the same with that of the Pentland, which, 
in spring-tides, runs at the rate of eight knots an hour. The depth 
of water is from 20 to 50 fathoms. On the west, this island is 
bounded by the Atlantic ; on the east, by a small portion of sea 
called a sound, which separates it from the Islands of Ferey and 
Eday ; and on the north and north-east, by another sound, sepa- 
rating it from that portion of the parish called Papa-Westray. 
The breadth of the proper ferry between the two islands may bo 
reckoned from three to four miles. 

Papaya Westray. — This island forms another constituent part of 
the parochial charge. Whence it derives its name can only be 
matter of conjecture. It is of an oval form, and is exactly one 
mile broad, and about three and a half long, making its superficial 
contents three and a half square miles. In the middle, it rises in 
the form of a ridge, and gently declines on both sides, until it 
reaches the sea shore. In this shape, it runs nearly the whole 
length of the island. But, on the north extremity, it terminates 
in a headland, bold and lofty, called the Mull of Papay. At this 
headland, is a cave, deemed one of the greatest natural curiosities 
of the kind to be met with, perhaps, in all the country. Its inte- 
rior presents the appearance of an immense amphitheatre. The 
roof, upwards of 70 feet in height, is somewhat like a regular built 
arch, — the beds of rock on every side rising the one above the 
other in the form of steps in a stair. The entrance is about 50 
feet in width, the breadth of the middle part about 60, and the 
most interior,' 48. The floor has a little inclination outwards, but 
its surface is smooth and even to the foot of the traveller. It is 
well worth being seen by strangers visiting the island. It is called 
the How of Habrahelia. The southern extremity of this island is 
also somewhat elevated, but not nearly so much as that of its op- 
posite. In this quarter, there is a beautiful fresh*water lake, which 
extends nearly across the whole island, from the one side of it to 
the other ; and in one part of this lake, there is a kind of islet, and 
on that a ruin of a chapel, said to have been dedicated to a female 
saint of the name of Tredwall ; and such was the veneration enter- 
tained by the inhabitants for this ancient Saint, that it was with 
difficulty that the first Presbyterian minister of the parish could 
restrain them, of a Sunday morning, from paying their devotions 
at this ruin, previous to their attendance on public worship in the 



118 ORKNEY. 

reformed church. Wonders, in the way of cure of bodily disease, 
are said to have been wrought by this Saint, whose fame is now 
passed away, and name almost forgotten. 

A small glebe excepted, this island belongs exclusively to one 
proprietor, who, with his family, constantly resides in it; and, for 
a length of time, was the only residing heritor in the parish, and 
Justice of the Peace. A large proportion of this island is under 
culture, and enclosed with stone dikes. It is deemed among the 
most fertile of the islands in Orkney, both for pasture and arable 
land. Here clover, white and red, grows spontaneously, and of a 
rich quality. Here turnips are raised, of a more extraordinary size 
and weight than in warmer climes and apparently richer soils. 
The proprietor of Papa Westray has, within these eight- or ten 
years, erected a garden, which promises to do very well as a kit« 
chen garden. Though currant and gooseberry have not succeeded 
to expectation, yet apple-trees supported on the wall have been 
wonderfully productive.* 

Lakes. — In Westray there are four considerable lakes, viz. the 
Loch of Swartmill, in the Skailwick district ; the Lioch of Took- 
quay, in the south-west district ; and the Lochs of Saintear and 
JBurness, in the north part of the parish. All these lakes are much 
about one size, measuring nearly half a mile in length to a quarter 
in breadth, — Burness excepted, which is not so large. The water 
in the lake of Swartmill is peculiarly dark and muddy, owing to 
its lying in the centre of a large peat-moss. There are no fishes 
in this lake, except common eel. The water in the lake of Took- 
quay is soft and clear, and answers well all the purposes of wash- 
ing and bleaching ; but there are no fish in it, owing to its want 
of communication with the sea. • The water in the lakes of Sain- 
tear and Burness are also transparent, and answer equally well the 
purposes above-mentioned. Burness, the upper lake, empties 

* It may not, perhaps, be out of place hereto meni ion, that PapaWcstray is 
notable in history for being the scene of a cruel murder. Ronald, one of the £arb 
of Orkney, vho is represented as an amiable and accomplished nobleman, and much 
beloved by his subjects, happening to come to this island direct from his palace at 
Kirkwall, attended by a small retinue, on a domestic concern, and, towards the ap« 
proach of the Christmas season, was, in the course of the night or late in the even- 
ing, while sitting by the fireside indulging himself in mirth and conversation with 
his companions, suddenly surprised by Thorsin Earl of Caithness, and his armed fol- 
lowers investing the house and setting fire to it ; and though, by superior strength and 
ogility, he escaped the conflagration, yet his place of retreat was soon afterwards dis- 
covered by the barking of his own dog, whence he was taken, and, together with his 
companions, inhumanly butchered. His remains are said to have been carried over 
to Westray, and interred amidst the lamentations of the people. 



WESTRAY. 119 

itself into Saintear, the loweri and that again in the Bay of Picro- 
wall. There are trout in both these lakes, and their season of 
spawning is in September and Qctober. In these months, tbej 
are often caught in their way up the stream from the sea. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — The strata of rock round this and 
the other island consist of limestone of the mixed and impure kind, 
and of the trap formation, twisted and scattered in all directions 
on the coast. There are also here two kinds of flagstone, distin- 
guished by the colour, blue and grey. The blue, like the rock of 
that colour, is hard, and accounted the most durable of the two. 
It is chiefly found by the sea shore, and considerably down from the 
high-water mark. The greystone flag is found in abundance, all 
over the Island of Westray, and of various thickness, from half an 
inch to three or four inches. Several quarries of it have, within 
these six or eight years, been opened for the purpose of making 
slate for houses. But the common people roof their houses with 
both kinds, just as they happen to be within their reach, and put 
them on in the same state in which they raise them, measuring 
sometimes from eight to ten feet square. This makes roofing 
here as easy as building. Purejimestone is also found in Westray. 
About thirty-eight years ago, a good deal was quarried on one 
estate, the estate of Cleat, and, being burnt, was found of good 
quality. 

In this island, organic remains are found imbedded in peat-moss, 
belonging both to the animal and vegetable kingdoms. In one 
large moss, great quantities of birch and birch-bark are annually 
dug up, in the operation of cutting peats ; and report says, that 
horns of deer have frequently been discovered in different parts of 
the moss. These fossils would indicate that forest wood, at some 
early period, existed in the island, and that deer had then been an 
inhabitant of the place. The wonder is, that no forest or growing 
wood of any extent is now to be seen either in this or in any other 
island in the country, though similar fossils abound. And it is a 
matter no less surprising, that every attempt to raise forest wood 
in the open fields, evep in the most sheltered spots, has hitherto 
proved abortive. 

The only ore discovered in this island is manganese. The dark- 
brown colour on the scum of water springs, in many places, plainly 
shows its plentiful existence. 

The alluvial deposits which cover sandstone and limestone consisti 



120 ORKNEY. 

for the most part, of sand, peat, gravel, clay, marl, and i^metinies 
loam. Rolled blocks are not unfrequently found in valleys and 
meadows, where, in all probability, some mighty flood has swept 
them down from the higher grounds in their vicinity, to their pre- 
sent state of imbedment. No remains of animals, except of the 
maWne kind, are found here in the alluvial deposits, and of these only 
cockle and mussel, and shell of the razor-fish, are seen and in great 
plenty imbedded in sandy soil, at considerable distance from and 
above the fevel of the sea. 

There is almost every species of soil in Westray. In the north 
part of the island, the soil most prevalent is sand ; but there are 
also to be seen in different parts of the same district, clay, gravel, 
and loam. The last -mentioned chiefly consists of small spots of 
ground, which have been long under culture, and improved too by 
the transportation of earths in a composite state. This, I think, will 
be found invariably the case where loam in any quarter of the 
island is seen. In the south west district, which comprehends 
Frebbay, Midbay, and Outo'*town, the soil in general is sandy, in 
some places gravelly, especially on the farm of Tookquoy ; and 
small spots of loam occur in most of the little farms in that neigh- 
bourhood. In the east and south-east districts, comprehending 
Cleat, Skailwick, and Rapness, the soil is alternate clay and peat- 
moss, with partial exceptions of gravel. The clay in all these 
quarters is, for the most part, of a very cold and wet nature, by 
reason of its proximity to the rock. Hitherto, we have taken no- 
tice of such soils only as are under culture, and it may be said 
with truth, that these in any quarter scarcely go beyond the skirts 
of the island, and do not constitute above one-tenth of its superfi- 
cial contents. The interior consists of an immense tract of common 
hill and d.ile lying in a state of nature, and separated everywhere 
from the cultivated lands by a turf dike, within which all the flocks 
and most of the bestial of the island, milk cows only excepted, 
are shut, during the summer and autumn, until the crops are 
removed from the ground and lodged in the barn-yards, when the 
styles are again laid open and the flocks left to range at pleasure. 
In many places of this extensive common, the soil is excellent, being 
in general of a rich whitish clay, and capable of being cultivated 
to advantage. But there are also large tracks, where the soil is ex- 
Ircmely poor and wet, upon which little improvement could be 
made, to repay the trouble and expense of the cultivator. 



WE8TRAY. 121 

• 

The 8oil in Papa-Westray is generally of a deep loam, where 
it has been long cultivated. In some parts, it is gravellyi in others 
clayey, and in some places a poor and insipid sand. 

Zoology. — There is not, to my knowledge, in this island, any 
animal that can properly be called rare, if we except a mouse 
of large size, nearly twice that of the common black mouse, 
and of light-brown colour. It is called by the inhabitants the 
vole- mouse. It is seldom or ever seen in a barn-yard or about 
houses. It commonly keeps by the sea shore, and burrows in the 
ground, especially in old feal dikes and among stones. There 
is a peculiarity in regard to this island, which may be mentioned, 
and whiqh, I understand, holds in regard to some other islands in 
this county, namely, that no rat can live in it. It is asserted that, 
though this quadruped has often been imported by ships, it never 
survives for any length of time ; whereas, in the other and less fre- 
quented isle, it abounds, and is extremely destructive. There it 
was imported by a wrecked vessel. 

It is well known that the grey eagle, which now visits the island 
only occasionally, was wont to nestle in the lofty precipices of the 
shores on the north, but that the bird-catchers, year after year, seiz- 
ing upon their brood, drove them away to seek a safer retreat from the 
hand of the spoiler. Hence, they are seldom seen here, except when 
hovering about in quest of their prey, or on their passage to the 
other and more inaccessible parts of the country, such as the Hoy 
hills and Heads of Eday. 

It is only the smallest kind of sheep that thrives in Westray, 
and the same observation holds in regard to cows. The larger 
cows do not take well with the bare pastures of Westray. In a 
few years, they degenerate into little more than the common breed 
of the place. This is no doubt owing, in a great measure, to the 
backward state of agriculture ; the want of green crops, or the re- 
quisite pasture for their feeding. In Papay, where the pastures 
are better, the larger breed of cattle and horses do pretty well. 

The haddock taken here is of the largest size, and very black 
on the back parts. Turbot is seldom got in our seas. The dog- 
fish is eagerly sought after, both for oil and family use. It is often 
got in great plenty towards the end of July, and during August 
and September, following the shoals of herrings which in these 
months frequent our shores. But among all the marine tribes, the 
most serviceable for food to the common people, and for light, from 



122 ORKNEY. 

the oil tbey produce, is the fry of the coal-fish, which is taken here 
in immense quantities by the people, standing upon the rocks by 
the water's edge, with nets m<ade in the form of a parachute or um- 
brella suspended from the top of a long pole, and thereby let down 
into the sea. 

Botany, — There is, at least, one rare plant of the floral kind 
that grows here. It is the bird's-eye primrose. It shoots up its 
gentle form in the most barren and naked spots. Indeed, it is 
never seen here in any other soil but the barren and the waste. 
The common primrose is also seen plentiful in its season, growing 
by the mountain side or by the brink of the streamlet. On our 
shores, the sea-pink abounds^ and the cowslip covers as with a mantle 
of yellow the declivities of the elevated and rocky grounds, in al- 
most every quarter of the island. The queen-of-the-meadow, too^ 
appears in our fens, and copiously impregnates the surrounding air 
with its delicious odour; and the daisy enamels our plains and pas- 
ture grounds as richly, perhaps, as in any other part of the world. 
In this brief catalogue, the craw-flower and blue violet also 
merit a place, being seen plentifully here, interspersed among nu- 
merous other indigenous plants. The following are a few that 
are deemed medical, viz. tussilago, marsh- mallow, poppy, scurvy- 
grass, foxglove, nightshade, with a great variety of the wort kind. 

II. — Civil History. 
Only one ancient author, Jo Ben, touches a little on this island. 

As his account is succinct and interesting, it may not, perhaps, be 
improper to give it a place here. " Of all the islands in Orkney, 
Westray is the most fertile. Here the better sort of people {ge^ 
ncra nohUium) make their residence. Here is an excellent fort, 
(meaning Noltland Castle,) not yet finished. Here the peasants 
or country people, (agricolcp^) had of old a terrible battle with the 
Hybernians or Lewismen, which being routed, were all put to the 
sword. One individual, however, more gallant and robust, emi« 
nently distinguished himself, fighting after the rest of his compa- 
nions wore destroyed. Having had both his legs cut ofi* below the 
hams, he was seen in the afl*ray, upon his stumps, bravely defend- 
ing himself." And tradition adds, that in this posture, with his 
back supported by a huge rock, to this day called the Highland- 
man's hammer, he did no little execution about him, until, over- 
powered by numbers, he was forced with violence against the rock 
and slain. 



WESTRAY. 123 

Memorable Occurrences. — The only occurrences of note or in- 
terest that have taken place in this and the other isle within the 
memory of the oldest inhabitant, consist chiefly of dismal ship- 
"wrecks. About nine or ten in number have happened within these 
thirty years, in which five of the crews perished ; and as many more 
perhaps during the same period, may have met their fate on the 
lofty precipices of our northern shore, under the cloud of night, and 
in the wintry tempest, when no eye witnessed the disasters. For 
the detached pieces of broken ships and their contents, occasion- 
ally scattered upon our shores, we cannot well account, but from 
this cause. 

Eminent Men. — As connected with this parish by birth or resi- 
dence in his early life, we have to mention one respectable charac- 
ter, namely, John Balfour, Esq. of Trenaby, late Member of Par- 
liament for the county of Orkney and Zetland, and who has in this 
island a property of considerable extent, from whence he takes his 
title. From history, it appears that Papa Westray was the residence 
of one Kolus, who married the daughter of Eriend, one of the 
Orkney Earls, and who had that island and other lands conferred 
upon him for merited services. 

Land-owners. — The principal land-owners in the parish are,— 
the Right Honourable Lord Dundas; George Traill, Esq. of 
Holland ; John Balfour, Esq. of Trenaby ; James Stewart, Esq. 
of Brugh ; Dr Thomas Stewart Traill of Tirlet ; Dr George 
Traill of Skail ; Thomas Mackenzie, Esq. of Ground Water ; and 
Messrs Smith of Breckowall. 

Parochial Registers. — There are only two parochial registers 
kept in this parish, viz. a register of baptisms and another of mar- 
riages. The baptism register commences with the year 1733, and 
the marriage register reaches no farther back than the year 1 784 ; 
and both have been brought down, with very few omissions, to the 
present time. 

Antiquities. — The castle of Noltland, in this island, forms a ve- 
nerable monument of antiquity. It is both an ancient and noble 
structure, and bears every mark of an intended place of defence 
similar to many of the kind throughout the kingdom, erected in 
feudal times. Its walls are of great thickness, and it is surounded at 
all points with loop-holes, so that no enemy could approach without 
being exposed to a shower of deadly missiles. Its plan is rather that 
of an oblong than a square, and a court within. The entry to it still 



124 ORKNEY. 

remaining is an arched portal of ornamented hewn work. Within 
the court, the entry to the main building is also of ornamented 
hewn work, and on the top part a coat of arms, which an ignorant 
rustic had the presumption to take down and destroy. A broad 
and elegant staircase presents itself as you enter, leading to the 
apartments above. But, before you reach the stair to ascend, a 
door on the right hand attracts your eye, conducting into an im- 
mense apartment on the ground flat, and nearly in the centre of 
the main building. Its dimensions are 62 feet long by 24 broad, 
and covered overhead by a strong stone arch 20 feet in height 
An arch-built fire-place of great dimension, from 9 to 10 feet 
wide, is seen in one end, and a spring well at the other, nearly filled 
with stones. In one of the side walls is a narrow stone stair, lead- 
ing, by a flight of steep steps, up through the vaulted roof, evident- 
ly to serve as a private communication to the upper flat and its 
several divisions. The whole fabric demonstrates the original de- 
sign : the great hall below for the accommodation of military or 
fighting men, and the upper apartments for family accommodation. 
Had the intended structure been finished, in pursuance of the plan, 
it would have been not only a superb dwelling, but an impregnable 
fortress for the time of its erection. With the adjoining lands, 
which are of considerable extent, it belongs to John Balfour, Esq. 
of Trenaby ; and the coat of arms alluded to as removed, but which 
have been replaced anew, are those of the family, put up at first by 
one Gilbert, who in Queen Mary's time, and that of her unfortunate 
husband. Lord Darnley, was master of the royal household, after- 
wards Sheriff* of Orkney and Governor of the castle at Kirkwall, 
and for his services had the above lands granted by his royal mas- 
ter. Hence the conjecture, that NoUland Castle had been built 
under the superintendence of that gentleman, to serve as a safe re- 
treat for the profligate Bothwell and Mary, after their disgraceful 
espousals, — but which had been left unfinished, uponthesad reverses 
which speedily overtook that unhappy pair. From whatever cause 
the work was laid aside, the symptoms of its speedy abandonment 
are visible to this day in the plentiful material for building lying 
in different spots around the walls of the edifice, ready prepared for 
the hands of the workmen. But that the above conjecture must 
be erroneous, is evident from the very poor reception which Both- 
well met with from that gentleman who refused him admittance 
into the castle of Kirkwall in the day of his adversity, when, to 



WESTRAY. 125 

escape merited punishment for a crime in which he certainly was 
a principal accomplice, he was forced to take shipping and fly to 
this remote part of the kingdom. Should this circumstance fail 
to convince some who may still feel disposed to give credence to 
the above opinion but too hastily adopted, what Ben, the early 
historian has said, who wrote forty years prior to these occur- 
rences, in the Scottish annals, should serve to set the question, in 
as far as relates to these two individuals, for ever at rest His 
language is, ^^ In Westray there is an excellent castle, but not yet 
completed ;" so that, in his day, it was still an unfinished building. 
The most probable thing is, that it was the undertaking of some 
Scandinavian prince or nobleman, who, either from misfortune 
had not been able to finish the work, or who had died during its 
progress, and whose death had put a stop to its completion. We 
would merely say, that it is a pity the proprietors, in after times, 
should have ever allowed one stone of so venerable a fabric to be 
taken down, or any part of it to be demolished. 

As there are, in many parts of the country, obelisks or standing- 
stones, so is there in nearly the centre of this island, one square 
stone, standing not quite upright, but in an inclined posture to- 
wards the south, with the lower part deeply fixed in the ground. 
The part above ground is eleven feet in height. On what occa- 
sion, or for what purpose it was erected, tradition is almost silent. 

There is on the south-west side of this islaud, close by the sea 
shore, andabout a mile from the manse, a ruin of a chapel named Cross 
Kirk, originally a place of Roman Catholic worship, but latterly of 
Presbyterian, until, about sixty -five years ago, it became ruinous, and 
a new church was erected on the other side of the island, in a more 
convenient situation for the people, especially for those in the re- 
mote district of Rapness. However, the burying-ground at the 
old ruin still remains to be the cemetery of the east parish, there 
being nothing of that kind at the new and more recently erected 
place of worship. 

In the island of Papay, besides the chapel of St Tradewell al- 
ready mentioned, there is a ruin of a religious house, distant about 
a quarter of a mile from the one now in use. It is called the 
Kirk of How, and was also a place of Roman Catholic worship. It 
is situated on a beautiful rising-ground, and the small cemetery, en- 
closed by a low stone dike, and covered over with a green sward, 
seems still to be considered as sacred ground, being allowed to re- 



126 ORKNEY. 

main in its natural state. The parish cemetery is not here, but 
lies around the present place of worship. 

To the above antiquities is to be added the number of graves 
found in two extensive fields, one in the north and the other in the 
south side of Westray. It is ascertained that these graves were 
not known to the inhabitants, until high gales of wind carried away 
thosurface, — which, in both places.being light and sandy, and easi- 
ly transported, exhibited to view the deposits which had been hid 
from the eye of many generations. Most of these graves are 
marked with a stone planted at the head and another at the foot 
of the place of interment : others, again, by flag- stones set on 
edge, arranged in the form of a chest for holding the body toge- 
ther, with such articles as the custom of the time, or the reigning 
superstition, deemed expedient to be interred along with it. When 
oi)ened, they were found to contain not only human bone% but 
warlike implements, especially swords in a most decayed state, 
also articles of dress, with some of a domestic description. Were 
more of them opened, there is little doubt that discoveries might 
be made, highly interesting to the antiquarian. That the fields on 
which these graves are seen, were at some distant period the scene 
of hostile combat, cannot be doubted. The scattered state of the 
graves over these fields, which are of considerable extent, and 
their contents may be said to vouch for the truth of this opinion. 
But, bei^ides these two fields, there is another place unnoticed by 
any author, which also bears evident marks of hostility. The 
place to which we allude, lies in a valley between two of the high- 
est hills, namely, Fitty and Gallow, far distant from any inhabited 
spot, and hard by what is called the Highlaudman's hammer, al- 
ready alluded to, as the scene of bloody strife and of individual 
bravery. Here the slain seem to have been collected into two 
spots, the one separated from the other by a distance of 30 or 40 
yards, where the graves in each spot are seen huddled close toge- 
ther, and covered over with earth and stone. These spots are, to 
this day, known by the name of the bloody Tuacks, and it is not 
improbable that the one contains the ashes of the brave who 
fell in the common cause, and the other those of the vanquish- 
ed foe. 

Tumuli, or Pict's houses, as they are called, are numerous in 
this parish. They are seen in both islands, and chiefly on the sea 
shores. Some of them are large, and almost every one has 
an original or an appropriate name, transmitted, we may believe. 



WESTRAY. 187 

from the period when that race of people were the possessors of 
the country. Similar to the ancient graves here scattered over 
the sandy plains, they are naturally a subject of curiosity. But I 
have never heard of any of them having been opened, but one 
which was opened at the request of two strangers, who visited the 
island many years ago. An urn, with one or two domestic utensils, 
— a drinking cup and quern, were discovered. 

III. — Population. 

In 1755. the population of this parish, according to Dr Webster, wns, 1290 
1793, according to the last Sutistical Account, . 1629 

1811, . . . 1626 

182], . . 1947 

1831, the number of males was 940, of females 1092, in all, 2032 

The decrease of population between 1793 and 1811 was owing 
to the number of young men impressed, or that volunteered into 
the service of the navy, during the late French revolutionary 
war. 

There are only two families of independent fortunes residing 
in this parish, namely, Mr Traill of Holland, and Mr Stewart of 
Brugh. 

The number of landed proprietors of the yearlj value of L.50, is 8 

widows up wafds of 50 years, • • 12 

unmarried men upwards of 50, . - . 43 

unmarried women upwards of 45, . . 44 

families in the parish, . 425 

Average number of children in each family, • . 3 

The number of inhabited houses in the parish, . . 273 

uninhabited houses, . • 4 

The number of insane persons, 5 ; of dumb, 2 ; of deaf, 4 ; of 
blind, 3 ; and of fatuous description, 3. 

One custom in this parish, and common to Orkney at large, 
is that of allowing the servants four or five day& liberty at Christ* 
mas, to enjoy themselves. Only the most necessary part of domes- 
tic work, with due attention to the bestial on the farm, is done on 
these days. The master of the house has, also, to keep up a well- 
furnished table for all his servants at that season. 

Another practice peculiar to this place is, that of observing punc- 
tually those days in the Roman calendar, on which eating and 
drinking are practised with more liberality than usual. 

£njoying in a moderate degree the necessary comforts of life, 
the people appear, in general, contented with their situation and 
circumstances ; and the little emigration that takes place may be 
deemed a proof of this. They arc naturally shrewd, and many of 
them of quick parts ; and in general, they are very desirous of 
knowledge. 



128 ORKNEY. 

IV.— Industry. 

The number of cultivated Scotch tores in Westray is about . SB70 

Papa Westray, . 960 

The number of acres which have never been cultivated, including the difie- 
rent holms or uninhabited isles connected with Westray, may amount 
in all to about r ®^^ 

In Papa, including the holrof . • ^ 965 

The number of acres that with advantage might be added to the cultivated 

lands in Westray may amount to about . 700 

In Papa, • 850 

The undivided common in Westray may amount to . 11650 

Mr Traill every year adds to his cultivated property in Papa, 
by allowing his people to enclose what they can, of the waste or un- 
cultivated, and to enjoy what is thus gained rent free, for the 
space of seven years, upon payment of 6d. annually in the way of 
an acknowledgement ; after which period, he exacts a small rent. 

Garden-ground excepted, there are no lands under wood in the 
parish ; and no shrubbery or tree can rise higher than the wall that 

shelters it. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent, of arable land in the parish 
may be reckoned at 10s. per acre. The rate of grazing an ox or 
cow during summer is 8s., and much about the same for a horse, 
— horses here being in general of the small size. There is no 
fixed rate for the grazing of a sheep, because every one's flock is 
grazed in one great common, in which all claim an equal right 

Wool per stone costs 7s. 6d., and manufactured into cloth, sold 
at 2s. per yard. Mason-work in house building is L. 1, Is. per 
rood, and in dike building, 6d. per fathom of four feet high. 
Carpenter's work is Is. 6d. per day with meat 

Live^Stock^ <S-c. — The breeds of sheep and cattle, in these two 
islands, are almost all of the small kind; the larger breeds of either 
not answering well. Both have been frequently tried; but, from want 
of proper pasture, and perhaps climate, they always degenerate. 
Owing also to the climate, the husbandry is confined almost entire- 
ly to the cultivation of oats and bear or big, the one after the 
other in constant rotation, with the alternation only of a small po- 
tato field in each farm. In some of the principal farms which 
have enclosures, turnip is beginning to have a place in the sys- 
tem ; but scarcely any artificial grass is raised, except on such 
farms as happen to be in the hands of proprietors. 

Very little has been done here towards the cultivation of waste 
lands, — though certainly much might be done in this way,— 
especially by draining. 

The great obstacle to improvement is either the want of leases 



WE8TRAY. 129 

of sufficient duration to encourage the occupiers of land, or want 
of capital to carry on innprovements. Till of late years, no leases 
were given ; and now that they are, their duration, except in one 
or two cases, does not exceed eight or ten years. 

The farm-houses, in general, are miserable hovels, being origi- 
nally built by the poor tenants themselves, in which you may see 
cattle in one apartment, and the family or domestics in the other, 
mingled without any apparent distinction. The farmer is obliged 
to leave his tenement as he found it, so that in this way it is trans- 
mitted from one occupier to another, with little or no improve- 
ment. But, we add with pleasure, that the proprietors have 
begun to act upon a more liberal system, as they are giving better 
steadings and dwelling-houses to their tenants. 

Quarries. — There is, in this island and in the island of Papay, 
plenty of gray and flag-stone quarries. 

Fisheries, — The fisheries prosecuted in this island are, cod, her- 
ring, lobster, dog-fish, and. the fry of the coal-fish. The aggre- 
gate proceeds of the herring, cod, and lobster fisheries, on an ave- 
rage of four or five years, may amount to L.950 or L.1000. 

Produce. — The average gross amount of the produce of the two 
islands, comprehending the diflTerent holms therewith connected, 
may be fairly estimated at about L. 2500. 

Manufactures, — Straw. plaiting was, for some years, among the 
females in this parish, a very general manufacture ; but the very 
little encouragement now held out has nearly put a stop to this work. 
The same thing may be said of what was the principal manufacture 
and grand staple of the country at large, namely, kelp. The very 
low price it now brings will scarcely remunerate the cost of making 
and sending it to market. The people here, as in all the other 
* parishes of Orkney, still persevere in making cloth from the wool 
of their sheep. What they use of it for body clothes, they com- 
monly dye. But woollen cloth is chiefly made for blankets. 

Navigation, — There are seven or eight small craft belonging to 
this island, each from 12 to 35 tons burden, employed in the cod- 
fishing during summer, that is, from the beginning of May to the 
end of July, or so : after which, the hands employed betake them- 
selves to the herring- fishery. There are about thirty large her- 
ring-boats belonging to this parish. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
The nearest market town is Kirkwall, twenty miles distant. 

ORKNEY. I 



130 ORKNEY. 

The only semblance to a village in this parish is Picrowall, con- 
sisting of ten or twelve houses situated along the sea shore. 

Means of Communication. — The means of communication en- 
joyed by the parish are very defective, by reason of there being 
as yet no stated or regular conveyance between this and the post- 
lown. There are as yet no highways in the parish ; and no har- 
hours, though one is much wanted at the bay of Tookquoy. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The two churches in Westray are tole- 
rably well situate for the different populations of the island, south 
and north. The church in the south part of the parish was built 
about sixty-five years ago. When the north church was erected, 
is not known; but both of them are in tolerable repair. The 
church in Papay is also convenient enough for the population, — 
but only in an imperfect state of repair. 

Except Mr Balfour's annual donation to the poor of the north 
parish of Westray, there is no other benefaction on record. 

The church in the north parish of Westray may hold about 900 
persons ; that in the east between 600 and 700. The church in 
Papay may accommodate about 220. There are no free sittings 
in any of the churches; and there is rather a want of accommodation 
upon a fiill attendance of the parishioners. 

The manse and offices were rebuilt in the summer of 1813, and 
completed early in the spring of 1814. The extent of the glebe 
may be computed at 28 or 30 Scotch acres, arable and unarable, 
and the rent, if let to a tenant, might be about L. 10 or L. 12; 
but is of double that value to the possessor. The amount of sti- 
pend is L. 193, 16s., with allowance for communion elements. 
The teinds are exhausted, except a trifle on one small property, 
notjudicially valued when thoseof other properties in the parish were. 

There are two Dissenting chapels, an Anabaptist and Secession. 
The Secession minister's stipend is L. 80, paid partly from seat 
rents, partly from Sabbath days' collection, especially by the 
members of his congregation. The Anabaptist minister has no 
fixed salary, except L. 20 from Mr Haldane, for itinerating as a 
missionary among the different islands. 

The number of persons in the two islands in attendance upon 
the Established church may amount to about 750. The number 
in attendance on the two Dissenting meetings, 600. 

Public worship is, upon the whole, well attended, both in the 
churches belonging to the Establishment, and in the Dissenting 
chapels. 



WESTRAY. 131 

The average number of communicants belonging to the Esta- 
blishment is about 320 ; to the Secession, 200 ; the Anabaptist, 
120. 

The average annual amount of the three church collections in 
the parish is L. 13 Sterling. 

Education, — The number of schools in the parish is five; — one 
parochial school in Westray; one subscription, belonging to the 
Establishment; two Secession schools; and one Society school 
in the Island of Papa Westray. 

The parochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 28; that of the Society 
teacher's is L. 15; of the subscription schoolmaster's, L. 12. The 
Secession teacher's salary is from L. 3 to L. 5. 

There are no young people in this parish between six and fif- 
teen years of age who cannot read a little, and very few between 
seven and eight who cannot also write. The number of persons 
upwards of fifteen years of age, who can neither read nor write, 
is 52 ; but these are for the most part aged people. The people 
in general, are most anxious to give education to their children, 
but averse to be at much expense ; nor can the circumstances 
of by far the greater part of them afford it. 

The district of Rapness is at least five miles from the parochial 
school, and, for the greater part of the year, the road in that quar- 
ter is almost impassable, by reason of an immense tract of peat 
moss intervening. The south-west part of the island is distant 
from the parochial school three miles, and the road in winter very 
bad. The north extremity is also distant from it about three 
miles. A school is needed in the Rapness district, in Skailwick, 
and in the south-west district. 

Library. — There is connected with this parish an itinerating 
library, on a small scale, instituted gratuitously by Thomas Bal- 
four, Esq., relative of Mr John Balfour of Trenaby, and oldest 
son of Captain William Balfour, R. N. Cliffdale. Its object is 
the benefit of the poorer classes of the people who are unable to 
purchase books, or get them from any other source. It is allowed 
to go the round of all the North Isles, and is stationary in each 
only for one year. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of persons receiving 
parochial aid, amounts to about 70 annually, and the average sum 
allotted to each is about 2s. 6d. The rest of the'fund goes to pay- 
ing precentor's and kirk officers' fees, and for coffins to the poor. 

There are no annual contributions in this parish to the poor, 



)d2 ORKNEY. 

exclusive of the weekly church collections. But there is an an- 
nual donation or bequest to the poor of the North Parish of Wes- 
tray, amounting to L. 4, 12s., by the Balfours of Trenaby. It 
has been paid to that part of the parish, for about forty years. 

Fuel. — Peat is the only fuel used in the parish by the poorer 
classes. This island was wont to supply itself and the other island 
with this most necessary domestic comfort. But since the mosses 
in this island have failed, the inhabitants have been necessitated to 
go to the Island of Eday, where peat moss abounds. There they 
are supplied at considerable expense, the ground being, per square 
fathom, 2s. 6d. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

Besides the changes noticed in the course of this article, an im- 
portant change, since the date of the old Account, has taken place 
in the new and improved method of fishing cod, that is, by using 
small sloops of twenty-five to thirty tons burden, instead of open 
boats or yauls, which could not venture far to sea. This great 
improvement has given rise to thirty large herring-boats, belong- 
ing to the parish, averaging, in value, L. 80 each, including all ne- 
cessary outfit, viz. nets and cordage. Hence a degree of wealth 
in the parish, which formerly did not exist 

In order to a better system of agriculture in this parish, the 
first thing to be recommended, is the abolition of the practice of 
allowing sheep, for nearly eight months in the year, to go at large 
over the whole island. Another essential thing would be, the di- 
vision of an immense track of common, which constitutes by far the 
largest proportion of the island of Westray. In this respect, 
Westray is behind most of the other islands in Orkney, which, in 
general, have made a division of their respective commonties, or, 
what is much the same thing, have enforced winter-herding. And 
the last requisite we shall mention, is the granting of leases for 
such a length of time, as might encourage the expenditure of ca- 
pital on improvements. 

Beviied, August 1841. 



PARISH OF LADY. 

PRESBYTERY OF NORTH ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. WALTER TRAILL, Minister.^ 

THE REV. GEORGE SMELLIE, Assistant and Successor. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
SituatioTiy 8fc. — Lady parish is situate on the east side of the 

Island of Sanday, and is about nine miles long by one mile broad. 
It is bounded on the north, east, and south, by the sea ; and on the 
west, partly by Cross parish, and partly by the sea, forming the 
large bay and harbour of Otterswick. The parish takes its name 
from the church called Lady Kirk, or the Kirk of our Lady, evi- 
dently dedicated in Catholic times to the Virgin Mary. It con- 
sists of several districts or subdivisions, as follows : Elsness, Over- 
bister, Coligarth, Tressness, Neivark, Selibister, Northwall. 
Each of these districts was probably, in ancient times, a separate 
distinct parish. 

Meteorology. — I subjoin a statement of the average heat of the 
weather for the greater part of two years. 

1825. 

Fahr. Average heat of January . 40^ Fahr. 

February, 41 

March, 42 

April, 40 

May, 49 

June, 52 

July, 57 

August, 56 

September, 54 

October, 46 



On the estate of Elsness, there is an oyce or inlet of the sea, 
from which the water wholly retreats, during the ebb tide— con- 
taining 100 Scotch acres. The entry is narrow, but of suflfi- 
cient depth of water for sloops of any size ; and the whole oyce 
might easily be converted into a harbour. At present, there is a 
rock or bar near the mouth, which, with ordinary floods, render^ 

• Drawn up by the Rev. Walter Traill. 



1824. 




Average beat of January 
February, 
March, 


4V 

89 

38 


April, 

May, 

June, 


52 
47 
54 


July, 
August, 
September, 
October, 


56 
57 
53 
46 


November, 


40 


December, 


37 



134 ORKNEY. 

the passage impossible, excepting to very small vessels. But were 
this obstruction removed, which could be done without any great 
expense of time or labour, the passage would be easy to sloops of 
any size. There is a similar oyce or inlet of the sea at Tressness, 
of at least twice the extent, and without any obstruction in the 
entry. Perhaps, both of these places might form proper stations 
for herring or cod fisheries. But should this notion be er- 
roneous, there can be no doubt that the extensive bay oT Otters- 
wick, common to Lady parish and Burness, would afford stations 
along its winding shores for one or more fishing-villages. This 
bay may be divided into the outward and inner harbours, the 
former eight, the other two miles in length. As, in storms from 
the north-east, it is difficult for vessels to ride in safety in the outer 
harbour, on account of the violence of the sea, they usually (in 
this case) retreat to the inner harbour, where no gale, however 
strong, can do them any injury. In some parts of the outward 
harbour, the water is 12 fathoms deep, with a stiff clay bottom ; in 
other parts, from 5 to 10 fathoms deep, bottom clay, with a cover- 
ing of several feet of sand. 

II. — Civil History. 
Antiquities. — There are in the parish several of those buildings 

ealled Picts' houses. 

I have received the following communication from Dr Wood, an 
ingenious medical gentleman, who practised several years in San- 
day : — " The island of Sanday is first mentioned in the Orkneyinga 
Saga, during the reign of Earl Paul, who having, in 1136, defeat- 
ed Earl Ronald in a sea-fight, and having captured most of his 
fleet, returned in triumph to Orkney, and invited to a splendid 
banquet all the aristrocracy of the islands, with their friends. 
He then resolved that a watch-tower should be erected in Fair 
I^le, on which a fire should be kindled, should an army be observ- 
ed approaching from Shetland. There was another watch-tower 
erected in Ronaldsay, and similar ones in most of the other is- 
lands, so that the signal might be seen over the whole. He ap- 
pointed Thorstein, the son of Havard, the son of Gunna, to take 
charge of Ronaldsay ; and Magnus, his brother, to take charge of 
Sanday.''* 

*^ Sanday is again mentioned in the year 1137, after Earl Ro- 
nald had returned to the islands. ^ Ronald sends ambassadors to 
the Bishop, begging he would intercede for him. He afterwards 

• Vide Orknejioga Saga, pp. 186, 187. 



LADY. 135 

adds to the embassy Thorstein, the son of Rangnu, and Thor« 
stein, the son of Havard of Sanday.'* Again, — Sanday is men- 
tioned as a fit place for a conference to be held between Swein, 
son of Asleif, and Anakol, a follower of Earl Erlend. * When 
Gauti met Swein, he sent a messenger to Anakol, and requested 
Swein to betake himself to Sanday, with his followers, that they 
might hold a conference there. He therefore promised, he should 
go thither.* f 

*^ In the year 1157, Earl Erlend and Swein left Shetland for 
Orkney; but, * encountering a severe storm, and a variety of 
whirlpools, in Dennis roost, it happened that Swein was separated 
from the Earl, and driven to Fair Isle, with twelve of their ships. 
He concluded that the Earl had perished. From thence he sail- 
ed south to Sanday, where he found Erlend with three ships. 
There was great joy on both sides at this meeting.' | 

^Mn the year 1 158, Swein fled to Sanday to escape the wrath of 
Earl Haralld, whose house in Gairsay he had forcibly entered, with 
intent to murder him; but Haralld then happened to be in a neigh- 
bouring island, hunting hares. When Haralld was informed, by his 
domestics, of this outrage of Swein, he immediately set out in search 
of him to Enhallow, whither Swein had fled ; however, he contrived 
to conceal his vessel in a large cavern in one of the clifis of that 
island, and so eluded the search of his pursuers, although they were 
at ode time so close to the mouth of the cavern, that he overheard 
their conversation." ^* He leaves his ship in the cavern, and seizes 
a merchant vessel which belonged to the monks, sails to Sanday, 
and there latids and sets fire to the ship. Upon landing, he repairs 
to a farm called Vblunes, occupied by a man named Bardr; he was 
a kins.man of Swein ; having privately begged of him to come out, 
he made known to him his wish to remain there."§ 

*^ The remains of the Scandinavian buildings of Sanday are nu- 
merous in Lady parish ; but it is to be regretted, that all of them 
are now in so ruinous a state, as to render an accurate description of 
them impossible. They mostly abound on the nesses or headlands, 
which situations appear to have been first settled, both from their 
proximity to the sea, from which the inhabitants would procure 
their chief sustenance, when agriculture was unknown or little at- 
tended to, and from such situations being most easily defended 
against the attacks of neighbouring tribes. 

• Vide Orkneyinga Saga, pp. 214, 215. f '^id. p. 832. 

\ Ibid. 348, 349. § Ibid. pp. 870, 871. 



136 ORKNEY. 

" Toftsness, the northermost point of Sanday, appears to have 
been a well-peopled settlement, from the numerous ruins which are 
still to be seen. The greater part of the Ness has been enclosed 
with a chain of forts, which were connected by a stone- wall. 
Within this wall, the ground has been covered with buildings of 
various sizes : — circles of stones set on edge, with, frequently, 
an upright central stone, are still to be seen,— and numerous graves 
lined with flat stones, and also surrounded by small circles of stones. 
Several of these graves have been opened ; some of them contain 
human bones, — others contain only ashes ; in many of them, deera' 
horns have been found. One of the forts, on the wall, was ex- 
amined a few years ago. It measured, inside, 16 feet in length, 
and 6 in width ; the walls were 8 feet in height, and from 4 to 5 
feet in thickness; at the height of 6 feet from the foundation, the 
stones, inside, were laid so as the upper stone overlapped the one 
immediately beneath, thus contracting the opening above, which 
was roofed over with large flat stones. AH the stones in this build-< 
ing were large flat stones from the beach. The wall was regular 
and firmly built There was no clay nor cement of any kind. A 
deer's horn was found in this building, and several fragments of 
bones. 

** From the quantity of sand blown over these remains, it is al- 
most, indeed altogether, impossible to give any accurate descrip- 
tion of them ; but, from their extent, it is evident that many 
people, and a great deal of time, must have been occupied in their 
erection. Some account of this place appeared in an Edinburgh 
newspaper, several years ago. 

*' Tressness, on the east- side of the island, contains several tu- 
muli, which have never been examined. They are situate^ close 
by the sea, at convenient landing-places. The largest of them, 
called Wassa, is built of large flat stones ; it is about 15 feet in 
height, and upwards of 180 feet in circumference at the base. 

" Elsness appears to have been an extensive settlement. On 
the northern extremity of this cape, there is a burgh or fort called 
Augmund's Howe. It is now in ruins, and overgrown with grass 
and weeds. It is situated close by the beach, and has been sur- 
rounded to landward, by a circle of upright stones. On the east 
side, where the ground is low, there is a semicircular terrace, the 
outer edge of which is formed also by stones set upright. The 
height of the fort is about 18 feet. 

" From Augmund's Howe, there may be traced the remains of 



LADY. 137 

a wall thickly studded with circular forts, running to the north- 
west across the Ness, and thus enclosing fully a third of the whole 
Ness. These small forts on the wall are, now, only ruinous cairns. 
They are all, or most of them, placed on the inside of the walL 
The few on the outside seem to have been so placed for security's 
sake, as they are uniformly on gentle risings. The wall does not 
run in a straight line, but has several curves, to avoid low spots of 
ground which are, in winter, covered with water. The enclosed 
space is literally covered with tumuli and heaps of ruins. None 
of those now remaining are of great size. The largest have been 
levelled and ploughed over. The peaceful husbandman has now 
succeeded the restless and daring sea-king. The sickle and the 
scythe have succeeded the sword and the battle-axe. 

** Most of these tumuli which have been opened, contained 
burned stones, ashes, bones, and sea shells. In some of them, were 
graves lined with flat stones. An axe, said to be of bone, was 
found some years ago, but was destroyed by the ignorant people 
who found it. An arrow or spear-head was also found at the same 
time. It is of stone, three inches long, and lozenge-shaped. The 
point is broken off. Many such articles might have been disco- 
vered, had proper persons superintended the removal of the tumuli. 

'^ A number of the smaller heaps within the walls are formed 
of what the country people call cramp^ and are said by them to 
have been used as places of sacrifice. For whatever purpose they 
were used, it is plain they must have been the sites of strong and 
long-continued fires. The cramp resembles the refuse from a 
glass-blower's furnace. It is of a reddish colour, and contains por- 
tions of a coarse glass, stones, and sometimes fragments of earthen 
vessels. The sea-weed, with which the shores abound, must have 
furnished the fuel. This, by long heat, would be reduced to kelp, 
and, by a continuance of the heat, and the admixture of sand and 
stones, would, in process of time, produce the tramp* 

*' There is another burgh, a little to the westward of Augmund's 
Howe, also built close by the beach, but considerably less than the 
former. On the north-west side, there is a circular enclosure of 
about an acre, which has, at one time, been under cultivation, and 
has given the name of Quoyness to this building. 

** Throughout the Ness, there are several circles of stones, with, 
for the most part, a central stone also set on edge. None of these 
stones are more than two feet above ground, and perhaps about as 
much under. All the circles measured nearly the same in cir- 



138 ORKNEY. 

cumference, about 36 feet None of them are to be found above 
a few yards from the beach. The finest specimens are at a creek, 
which forms an excellent harbour called Kettletoft. On each 
side of this creek, are two circles ; the first two are close by the 
beach, the other two at the upper extremity of the creek. The 
only tumuli outside the line of forts are three or four, at a short 
distance from Augmund's Howe. All the rest, burghs, tumuli, 
and circles, are on the west side, that is, within the fortified wall. 

** The ruins here differ in several particulars from those at 
Toftsness. At that place, the forts or watch-towers are of an ob- 
long shape ; here, they appear to have been circular. At Tofts* 
ness I never heard of any cramp having been seen ; here, it abounds. 
Fewer graves have appeared here than at Toftsness, and none 
within circles of stones. Notwithstanding these circumstances, 
they both appear to be the work of the same race of people. The 
apparent differences, for they are not real, may be easily account- 
ed for. May not the taste or style of one architect (builder, at 
least,) have differed from that of another in the formation of the 
watch-towers ? Or may not the forts or watch-towers at Elsness 
have originally been of the same shape with those of Toftsness, 
and may they not have attained their present circular form, from 
being reduced to ruins and overgrown with grass ? The sand 
blowing off Toftsness, which has buried most of the ruins there, 
has preserved the watch-towers in a comparatively perfect state. 
The absence of cramp at Toftsness may be accounted for by the 
different kind of fuel which may have been used. In that place, 
there is a thin layer of turf or peat under the sand, which, no doubt, 
would be preferred to the sea-weed ; and we are informed, that 
one of the Earls, Torf Einar, taught the inhabitants the use of turf 
or peat some centuries before Christianity was introduced into 
Orkney. (Vide Torfaeus and Ork. Saga). There is no peat at 
Elsness, nor, indeed, in any part of Sanday, but Toftsness. 

** None of the circles at Elsness have been opened, or graves 
.might have been found in them, as well as within the circles at 
Toftsness. 

" At Newark, in the centre of Lady parish, there were lately 
discovered under land, which had been cultivated for generations, 
the ruins of a large circular building. It was built of large flat 
stones, admirably fitted together, but without cement of any kind. 
The wall curved slightly inwards, from the foundation to the height 
of 8 or 9 feet, and then outward, as it rose in height, for about 4 



LADY. 139 

feet, where it had the appearance of having been thrown down. 
It was about 12 feet wide at the bottom inside. The wall was 
fully 6 feet in thickness, and, in some parts, a double wall was per« 
ceptible, with an intermediate space of about 3 feet. This double 
wall went all round ; but, from the great quantity of rubbish, it 
was found impossible to trace it. Tliere was no appearance of 
door nor window, unless in the south and east sides, where two 
small openings communicated with the space between the ^alls. In 
one of those openings, was found a bone pin, three inches long, 
smoothly polbhed ; in the other opening, part of a very coarsely- 
formed comb, made of the bone of the whale. 

^^ The interior of the building was fitted up with rubbish, stones, 
and gravel, and above all was a deep layer of red ashes, thickly 
interspersed with the bones of cattle, sheep, swine, rabbits, and 
geese, and with limpets and other shell-fish. The whole of the 
building is now under ground, and must have been so for many 
generations. It has been built on a rising ground. The sea, on 
either side of it, may be distant about half a mile. From the top 
of it, which, in its original state, would have been a few feet higher 
than the ground which now covers it, both sides of the island would 
have been seen, — a great portion of what lies to the southward and 
westward, and all that part of the island lying north-east of it. 
This tower, in all probability, belonged to that description of 
them of which the Castle of Mousa in Shetland is said to be the 
most perfect specimen. ( See Ivanhoe, last edition. Vol. ii. p. 835,) 
where, in a note, the learned author gives a very interesting ac- 
count of such towers, and particularly of that of Mousa. 

" About a quarter of a mile northward of the Newark tower is 
a tumulus, which has never been opened. It is covered with a 
rich sward. It is called by the country people " Ivar's Knowe." 
The ground slopes gently from this knowe to the beach, which 
forms the south-east side of the Bay of Otterswick or Odenswick. 
Along this beach are the remains of two or three more buildings. 
About a mile south-west of these, in the centre of a marsh on the 
farm of Cleatt, is another small tumulus ; and about half a mile 
fiirther south, on the same farm, is another, situated on the edge 
of marshy ground, which is covered by the sea in spring-tides. A 
considerable extent of barren uncultivated ground stretches to the 
south-west, along the banks of Otterswick, and is terminated by 
the farm of Coligarth. Many small circular mounds may be seen 
on this moor, all, or most of which, contain masses of cramp. 



140 ORKNEY. 

" The Ness of Coligarth or Coliness extends a good way across 
the Bay of Otterswick to the north-west. In this ness there is a 
very large artificial mound) which, if examined, would be found 
to contain the largest burgh in Lady Parish, if not in Sanday. 
The surface of this mound has been broken in several places for 
the purpose of taking away large stones, which are found in every 
part of it. About three years ago, while removing some of these 
stones, a spear head was found ; it is of iron, seven inches long, 
rounded and pointed at one extremity, and flattened at the other. 

*^ On the south-west side of Coligarth, another barren moor 
commences, and runs along the banks of Otterswick almost to the 
bottom of the bay, where this parish is joined by Burness. Along 
this moor, too, are scattered a number of small circular heaps ; 
but the largest and most remarkable are in the immediate vicinity 
of Coligarth. They consist of three pretty large tumuli, partly 
surrounded by a square enclosure. There is also within the enclo- 
sure an excellent spring well, which has been carefully built about 
with large stones. The remains of a wall may be traced, running 
in a southerly direction from these tumuli, a good way across the 
moor. These three tumuli are called by the country people Myr- 
tis's Knowes, or the Knowes of Myrtis. 

^* The principal Scandinavian antiquities in this parish have 
now been enumerated. Many more, no doubt, are buried under 
ground, some of which may yet be discovered. What we now 
have, is sufficient proof of the rude state of society in these islands 
at one period. 

^' Religious buildings were formerly pretty numerous in this 
parish ; in general, they were only small chapels ; at least we 
have not now the remains of any large religious edifice. Nothing 
now is left of them, save their foundations overgrown with 
grass and weeds. They are all surrounded by, or in the imme- 
diate vicinity of, good la«d, and generally near a well or fresh 
water loch. None of them are to be found on the moor or hill 
ground. Several of them have been builj close by the ruins of 
other buildings ; such situations may have been chosen, from the 
ready access to stones which they afforded ; or the devout men en- 
gaged in the conversion of the Orcadian heathens, to show their 
utter abhorrence of the ancient superstition, may have erected 
their chapels on the very ruins of the temples of Odin. 

" None of these chapels have exceeded twelve feet in length, 
and from eight to ten feet in breadth. Foundations of them may 



LADY. 141 

be seen at Northwall, Newark, Cleatt, Tressness, Overbister, 
Coliness, and other places. It Is likely they would all have been 
dedicated to some saint or other holy person ; but tradition, which 
is very scanty here, has only preserved the names of three of them ; 
Peter Kirk, or St Peter*s Chapel, (which has been of rather lar- 
ger dimensions than the others), on the banks of Otterswick, near 
Newark ; the Chapel of Arstas^ close by the round tower lately 
discovered at Newark ; and St Magdalen's Chapel in Overbister. 

" Founts, or holy water basins, have been found at several of 
them. These founts are all formed alike, from rounded pieces 
of red sandstone, roughly hollowed out on one side. 

^^ On examining the small portions left of the walls of the cha- 
pels, they are found to be cemented with clay ; some of them 
have been plastered inside with lime. 

^\ In the spring of 1826, while removing some large stones 
which impeded the operations of the plough, near the foundations 
of a chapel in Overbister, a long subterraneous passage was dis- 
covered, which terminated in a circular cavity. The bottom and 
sides of this passage were formed of the solid rock, as well as the 
cavity at its extremity, which has likely been intended for a well ; 
the top or roof of the passage was carefully covered with flagstones, 
and above was the natural soil. The entrance to the passage was 
by two steps cut in the rock. The length of the passage was 
19^ feet; height, 3 feet; width, about 1 foot 9 inches; diameter 
of the well, 3 feet ; from the roof to the bottom of the well, 3 feet 
6 inches. Several small pieces of decayed oak were found in the 
passage. The well contained a very little water and mud. 

^^ At a few feet distance from the entrance to this passage, a 
causeway was discovered, formed of rounded stones from the 
beach, and laid with great care, the stones in the centre being 
set upright, those on each side sloping towards the centre. The 
causeway was 4 feet broad ; it commenced at the chapel, and run 
in a straight line to the westward for 30 or 40 yards ; it then 
turned to the south, and was traced in that direction for about 60 
yards. It most probably, at one time, led to a small loch, which 
is about 200 yards distant from the site of the chapel. 

" Tradition gives no name to this chapel. The small hillock 
was known to the old people by the name of the Carse of Henzie 
Hunt. St Magdalen's Chapel stood about 200 yards north of 
this. 

" No graves are to be found near any of these chapels, unless 



142 ORKNEY. 

at one built on the ruins of the burgh of Coliness. This chapel 
has been built at the south-east comer of the ruins of the burgh. 
Its length was 12 feet ; breadth little more than &. A stone, 2 
feet long, 10 inches in thickness, and as many in breadth, was 
found in this chapel. One side of this stone was covered with small 
circular holes, about one inch in depth, and straight lines were 
cut from one hole to another; the holes were not arranged in any 
regular order. The use of this stone must remain unknown. 

^' At a very short distance from the west end of the chapel, a 
number of graves were discovered ; all were lined with flagstones. 
None of them were above two feet under the surface of the 
ground. They were close together in rows, forming the divisions 
between the graves. Many of the skeletons were pretty entire ; 
they were lying with their heads to the west All were on their 
right sides, with the knees a good deal bent. One of the sculls 
had a long wound on the upper part of it. A gold ring, rather 
larger than a finger ring, was found in one of the graves ; but the 
boy who found it, broke it, to ascertain its composition. I saw 
only a small fragment of it. On the flag which formed the south 
or right side of one of these graves, there was a very rude attempt 
at carving a cross Calvary. The upright portion was 13 inches 
long ; the cross beam, 9 inches. More curious discoveries might 
have been made here ; but the search was discontinued." 

III. — Population. 

Amount of population in 1801, - 830 

1811, - 862 

1821, - 880 

1831, - 8o8 

Customs, — Formerly, it was customary for companies of men, 
on new year's morning, to go to thc^ houses of the rich, and awake 
the family, by singing the New Year's song, in full chorus. When 
the song was concluded, the family entertained the musicians 
with ale and bread, and gave them a smoked goose or a piece of 
beef.* 

Language. — Our language is rather a dialect of the English than 
the Scotch, and the pronunciation also resembles the English. 
But several words are evidently borrowed from the French, for 
example, vilipend^ to abuse by opprobrious or railing language. 
This word is frequently used by Brantome, who wrote in the age 
of Mary Queen of Scots. The country people term the black 

* A copy of this song, set to music, is inserted in the MS. 

3 



LADT. 143 

window fly, matUot^ the French term for a sailor. The term has 
been suggested by this insect creeping or climbing on glass. 

There are various customs evidently superstitious. Thus, the 
people never marry, but when the moon is growing. Were they 
to do so, when it is waning, the marriage bed would be barren. 
They observe the same rule in killing cows, firmly believing that, 
if they did otherwise, the beef would dwindle in the pot. Thursday 
is the day generally fixed for i^arriage. In going to sea, they 
turn the boat in the direction of the sun's course. To move in the 
opposite way, would be considered improper, if not dangerous. 
When the first lamb seen for the season is white, the omen is for- 
tunate : and the appearance of a black lamb is unlucky. 

The people, in general, are peaceful, temperate, and industrious. 
The poverty of the cottage is cheered by the domestic charities 
and social affections. In the faithful discharge of their duties, as 
husbands, wives, parents, and children, they are unrivalled. To 
the indigent poor, the sick, the lame, the blind, the infirm, they 
cheerfully give what they can spare. Any individual deficient in 
those respects, would be viewed by his neighbour with hatred and 
contempt : consequently, cases of this nature seldom or never occur. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriddture. — lliough there is almost every variety of soil in 
Lady Parish, what generally prevails is sand, or a mixture of 
earth and sand. The soil is productive, and, in favoured seasons, 
considerable quantities of bear and meal are exported. The 
precise quantity cannot be ascertained, because no farmer will 
give explicit information on this subject, from an apprehen- 
sion that, if the truth were fully known, his rent might be 
raised.. But an approximation to the truth may be obtained. 
Several years ago I procured from the custom-house an account 
of the quantities of bear, meal, and malt exported coastwise from 
Orkney for a course of years. This account it may not be im- 
proper here to insert. 

Account of grain and meal carried coastwise from Orkney in 
the following years : — 





Bear. 


Oatmeal. 


Years. 


Qrs. 


Bolls. 


1790, 


2880 


315 


1795, 


4970 


1552 


1800, 


2430 


667 


1805, 


2934 


80 


1810, 


272 




1815, 


4399 


952 



Years. 






Q". 


1790, 


• > 


• 


^ 


1795, 


• 


• • 


142 


1800, 


• • 


• 


69$ 


1805, 


» • 


• • 


83B 


•1810, 


• • 


• 


J« 


1815, 


• ■ 


• • 


125H 




OaU. 


Malt. 






Qn. 


Biuh. 






*» 


4A 




1820, 


. m 


• . 


134« 



144 ORKNEY. 

Bear. Oatmeal* 
Yeaw. Q«. Bolb. 

Oats. Malt. 
Qrt. Bush. 
160 144 

1820, 197 . . 4710 2219 

Taking the population of Lady Parish, as a thirty-fifth part 
of that of Orkney, we have the following results of grain and malt 
carried coastwise from this parish m the years specified. 

Bear. Oatmeal. 
BolU. 
9 

41H 

2? 

27i 



It is supposed that about two-thirds of the parish are in arable 
land and good natural pasture, and the other third waste and co- 
vered with heath. 

For at least thirty or forty years past, there has been an incli- 
nation in every farmer who had the opportunity, to reclaim land 
from the waste. Before that period, it was considered as imprac- 
ticable; but the example of a few individuals who had the forti- 
tude to depart from established custom, showed that the innova- 
tion not only was safe, but might even be attempted with advan- 
tage. In all probability, after a few years, there will be no waste 
ground in the parish ; and in the course of time, every acre may 
be brought into a state of garden cultivation. 

There are two modes of reclaiming the waste, — Firsts about or 
after Martinmas, when the ground is socked with rain, it is plough- 
ed and exposed to the frosts of winter, and the heat of the suc- 
ceeding summer. In spring of the next year, ware, dung, or other 
manure is laid on ; the ground is broken and made smooth with 
the harrow and roller; and in the last place, cross-ploughed and 
sown with oats. In the second plan, or lazy bed, the ground, after 
being spread with horse or cow dung, is planted with potatoes. 
The lazy bed now mentioned is perhaps the most efiectual way of 
bringing waste ground to a state of cultivation ; for in the season 
succeeding the crop of potatoes, oats or bear may be sown with 
or without manure, as suits the convenience of the farmer. 

I shall now describe the rural policy of the parish ; and the de- 
scription will, in general, apply to the whole island of Sanday, or 

4 



LADY. 145 

more properly speaking, to the portion of Orkney termed the North 
Isles. One very lar^e farm, the people are divided into three classes ; 
firsts house-servants dwelling with the farmer, and having a monied 
fee; second^ boll-men; thirds cottagers or cottars. Both the second 
and third classes are scattered through the farm, in situations most 
convenient for the farmer. In winter and spring, the boll-man has a 
monthly allowance of grain and oatmeal, both for wages and food. 
He is a daily servant till the end of May, when he works in the 
kelp at a stipulated price per ton, the profit depending on his own 
industry. Both cottagers and boil-men shear in harvest, and are 
paid by a portion of l(ind termed a harvest fee. Through the 
whole parish, each cottager and boll-man can maintain, summer and 
winter, a milking cow and a horse ; and there are instances of se- 
veral keeping four cows and two horses. 

The one- stilted plough was in general use, in my recollection: 
and, though a fertile subject of ridicule, was the ancient plough of 
Rome, Egypt, and even England. Though it did the work with 
sufficient accuracy, still it was an inconvenient instrument, as it 
required four horses and a driver. The rise of fees, and the horse- 
tax in the Revolutionary war with France, rendered economy an 
object of imperious necessity with every farmer ; and, therefore, 
the improved mode of ploughing with two horses, without a driver, 
was introduced in an early period of the war, and soon became ge- 
neral. 

Sea-ware or weed, from its abundance, and the ease with which 
it can be carried to the land, is used as manure, in preference to . 
compost dung hills. No manure acts more speedily on the soil, 
or gives a cleaner and more abundant crop. It has been said, that 
compost dung-hills would give bear of a superior quality, — but if 
the quantity was not also greater, we would gain no compensation 
for the additional expense of time and labour. Our crops of bear 
are as clean as those in any county of Scotland. The wild mustard 
prevails in our oats, for it seems to be a hardy weed, which has 
hitherto set the skill of the farmer at defiance, and abounds in 
every county of Scotland and England, and in every province of 
France. Careful cleaning of the seed, and extending the drill 
husbandry to bear and oats, might probably extirpate this and other 
ni xicus weeds. 

The drill husbandry in potatoes and turnips, prevails in every 
soil ailapted to these useful vegetables. The manure generally 
used for both, is horse or cow dung; but in light sandy soils, rot* 

ORKNEY. K 



14G OUKNEY. 

ten ware lias been found an excellent manure for turnip. Since 
the general use of turnip, our black-cattle bave improved in qua- 
lity ; and farmers have also discovered, that it is better to have an 
under than an over stock, formerly the great error in this country. 

The sea-ware was usually carried to the land in baskets, (term- 
ed creels) on the backs of horses, to the great injury of the health 
of this noble animal. These creels, pressing on the ribs of the 
horse, created internal and incurable disorders. It was liable also 
to objection in point of economy, as a great number of small 
horses was required ; but the general use of carts has nearly abo- 
lished the practice. 

Until very lately the longest period for which even large farms were 
let, was nineteen years; but the greater number of farmers in our pa- 
rish are, at this moment, tenants at will. While this narrow policy 
prevails, there can be no lasting substantial improvement. For 
what individual, removed a single step from insanity, will risk his 
ciipital on improvements from which he has no certainty of pro6t ? 
It is pleasing, however, to reflect that one heritor has lately granted 
several leases of nineteen years ; and there is every reason to hope, 
that the practice will become general. 

What is termed steelbow once existed ; but the practice is fast 
wearing out. It may be thus described : A certain value in horses, 
ploughs, carts, harrows, and other farming utensils is delivered to 
the tenant, who must, at the end of his lease, leave on the farm the 
same value. The dwelling-houses, cottages, and parks, are also 
valued by men mutually chosen ; — the tenant is paid for all 
ameliorations, and is charged for all deteriorations. The term 
of entry is Martinmas, and the whole crop, (fodder, seed, and ser- 
vant's bolls excepted,) is the property of the outgoing tenant. 
The incoming tenant is bound, not only to thrash the whole crop, 
with the exceptions already stated, to the outgoing tenant, but 
also to dry his oats, and convert them into meal. This practice, 
founded on wisdom and justice, is beneficial to both parties. 
Were it abolished, the incoming tenant could not lay down the 
crop for want of fodder, nor could the outgoing tenant convert his 
crop iifto meal, without barn, kiln, and other conveniences in the 
possession of the incoming tenant. 

It has been supposed that steelbow is pernicious, by inducing 
men of no capital to take farms. In an early period, steelbow 
might have been equal, or nearly equal to the value of stocking 
required for the farm. But money has been so much depreciat- 



LADY. 147 

ed, that the value of house and farming utensils required in steel- 
bow, is so mere a trifle in comparison of the value of the whole 
stocking actually necessary, that it can afford no temptation to 
any farmer to compete. The practice, therefore, does neither good 
nor harm. 

On the mode of farming I have only further to add, that it is 
the practice of our farmers to begin sowing as early as possible on 
sandy soils. Accordingly, oat-seed commences about the 1st of 
February, old style, that is the 12th of February, new style. Oats 
are therefore sown from the 1st of February to the middle or end 
of March, — as our farmers are of opinion that it cannot be sown too 
early, especially in dry and sandy soils. In such soils, they gene- 
rally sow in furrow, or, in other words, sow first, and plough down 
the seed, to protect it from sand blowing. 

The gross rent of Lady parish is as follows : 

Rent in bear, 1338 meils, at 6s. 8d. per meil, L.446 

Do. in oatmeal, 28 bolls, at 168. per boll, 22 8 

Do. in kelp, 130 tons, at L.4 per ton, . 520 

Do. paid in cash, . . 1214 12 

L.2203 

Harvest generally begins in the first or second week of Sep- 
tember, and ends about the middle of October, when the crop is 
carried to the barn-yard. We do not put the sheaves in stooks, 
as in the south country, but in miniature stacks, termed here 
skrews. When the sheaves are large, a threave is generally put 
in each skrew ; but if they are of a moderate size, a threave and a 
half. Our farmers are of opinion that this mode is preferable to 
stooking, by protecting the grain from rain, and exposing it to the 
wind, so that it is thoroughly dried, before it is conveyed to the 
corn-yard. 

The number of carts in Lady parish is 1 18. It is a remarkable 
fact, that, at the date of the old Statistical Account of Sanday, the 
whole island contained only 36 carts ; there are now, therefore, 
82 more carts in Lady parish than were, at that period, in all the 
three parishes which composed our island. 

The number of ploughs is 83. For each of these, three horses 
may be allowed, two to till, and one to harrow, — making a total of 
249, — an amount rather under, than above the truth. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
This parish, as already mentioned, contains a church termed 

Lady Kirk. Some years ago, it was rebuilt, and is now large, and 



148 ORKNEY. 

in every respect well adapted for the accommodation of a nume- 
rous congregation. 

Poor. — The parish fuods for the poor proceed from the follow- 
ing sources : 1«/, L.5, a yearly donation, from Mr Traill of Hob- 
bister ; 2(//y, Marriage money, 2s. 6d. for each marriage, of which 
lOd. goes to the clerk and officer, and Is. 8d. to the poor; Sd/y, 
Is. 2d. for the use of the mortcloth in burying ; Athly and lastly, 
the collections on Sabbath. On an average of three years, the 
total amount does not exceed L.9, 17s. yearly. From this deduct 
fees to the clerk and officer, and there remains for distribution, L.7, 
8s. The precentor, or reader, as he is generally termed, receives 
and has received, from time immemorial, nine meils of bear on the 
bear pundlar, four settings oatmeal, and twelve merks of butter. 

Education. — There is in Sellibister, one of the districts of this 
parish, a school under the Society for Propagating Christian 
Knowledge; salary, L. 15 Sterling; reading, writing, arithmetic, 
and book-keeping are taught. There is also a parochial school 
common to all the three parishes of Sanday, with a commodious 
house, and a salary of L. 46, 10s. The school-house is large, 
well-aired, and well-lighted. Besides reading, writing, arith- 
metic, and book-keeping, the elements of mathematics, land- 
measuring, and Latin, are taught. The situation has hitherto been 
occupied by able and welUqualified teachers. 

Light-house. — A light-house was erected on the Start, in the 
year 1802, and lighted in 1806. It is 100 feet in height, and re- 
volves once in two minutes. 

Since its erection, very few vessels have been either wrecked 

or stranded on our coast. Formerly, three or four vessels were 

yearly wrecked. Our coast is so low, that mariners are entangled, 

before aware of the danger. But the same circumstance which 

,is fatal to the vessel, proves, in general, the safety of the crew, 

July 1841. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

BIRSAY AND HARRAY. 

PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. THOMAS BLYTH, MINISTER. 



Parish of Birsay. 

I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, Boundaries^ Sfc. — The modern name of this parish is 
Birsay, a corruption of the ancient one, which, according to Tor- 
feeus the historian, was somewhat different. Birsay, as united 
with the parish of Harray, was anciently known by the name of 
the Province of Bergisherad, which, according to Icelandic his- 
torians, means a hunting territory,-^jB2r^'« or Birsay signifying 
hunting, and Harady now Harray^ a territory. If these deriva- 
tions be just, it is probable that these parishes of old composed a 
district principally, if not solely, destined to the 'amusements 
of hunting ; for before Kirkwall was a place of any great note, 
the Princes, perhaps, and certainly the Nobles and Bishops, had 
their chief residence in Birsay. The western extremity of the 
united parishes is a flat, fertile, and rather narrow track of land, 
which opens gradually towards the east, till it swells at length 
to an immense amphitheatre, bounded by the hills of Sandwick, 
Orphir, and Kendal. Several beautiful lakes, of different sizes, 
are dispersed throughout this district, and some pretty large rivu- 
lets intersect it in various directions ; the former of these con- 
tain plenty of swans, ducks, and other water-fowl ; and both of 
them abound in those kinds of fish that generally frequent fresh 
water. 

The greatest length of the parish, from south-west to north- 
east, is about 8 miles ; its greatest breadth about 5 miles ; and it 
is computed to contain about 38 square miles. The form of the 
parish is irregular. It is bounded, on the west and north sides by 
the sea, and part of the parish of Evie ; and on the south and 
east, by the parishes of Sandwick and Harray. 



150 ORKNEY. 

Topographical Appearances and Soil. — This parish presents 
great inequalities of soil, as well as of surface. The coast, which, 
in general, is bold and rocky, extends about eight miles, and, in 
some places, rises with a gradual ascent from the sea, about a mile 
eastward. The soil is very various. The lauds forming what 
is called the barony of Birsay, are considered by far the richest 
and most fertile in the parish, or perhaps in Orkney ; the soil, 
in general, is a mixture of clay and sand, and yields most luxuriant 
crops of oats and barley, ^^ without intermission.^ 

As to the quality of the ground in other parts of the parish, it 
is, in general, a kind of deep black loam, which also yields an abun- 
dant return of oats and barley; it is well adapted to turnips and 
potatoes. 

Hydrography, — There are six lakes in the parish. The most 
of them are about a mile in breadth, and upwards of four miles in 
circumference. The streams or rivulets that run through the pa- 
rish are inconsiderable, though they impel the machinery of four 
meal-mills. There is no harbour for vessels on the coasU The 
only harbours we have, are for small boats. The two principal ones 
are called Skibbagoe and Cdstragoe. 

Mineralogy. — The minerals of the parish consist of limestone, 
and a sort of claystone, which is in great request in the parish, and is 
generally used for pavement and for covering farm and other houses. 
There is, also, great abundance of other kinds of building stones ; 
freestone excepted. Marble and alabaster are said to have been 
discovered in the parish. 

II. — Civil History. 
From the want of well authenticated information, little can be 
said of the ancient state of Birsay. Indeed, there are no traces 
of its history prior to the period when it was in the possession of the 
Earis of Orkney ; and even subsequent to that time, little that can 
be depended upon, is known. There can be no doubt, however, of 
the fact, that the first seat of the Earis and Bishops of Orkney was 
in Birsay. The ancient inhabitants of the parish were Norwegians : 
and the names of many of the places are evidently of Norwegian 
extraction. 

JLand-owners, — The number of land-owners in the parish, resi- 
dent and non-resident, is 39 ; of whom 10 are non-resident The 
principal land-owner is the Earl of Zetland, who is also patron of 
the parish. 
Parochial Begisters^^^The parochial registers go so far back as 



BIRSAY AND HARRAY. 151 

1631. They consist of five volumes, and are, upon the whole, in 
tolerably good condition. The register of baptisms and marriages 
commenced under the ministry of the Rev. James Aitken in 1645, 
and has been continued to the present time. 

Antiquities. — Among the antiquities connected with Birsay, 
may be noticed the remains of the sacerdotal palace. It stands 
on a beautiful green near the sea. It was the residence of the 
Earls and Bishops of Orkney. The time of its erection is not 
known with certainty. It is said, that additions have been made to 
it at different times, by the Sinclairs, commonly styled Princes and 
Counts of Orkney. Robert Stuart, natural brother to Queen Mary, 
as also his son, Patrick, made great additions ; but now, only the 
bare walls remain. It was built upon the model of Holyrood- 
house. Above the gate was the famous inscription, '* Dominus 
Robertus Stuartus, filius Jacobi quinti Rex Scotorum, hoc opus 
instruxit," and above the coat of arms, was the following motto, — 
^^ Sic fuit, est, et erit." The stone, it is said, is still in the posses- 
sion of the Earl of Morton, to whom the lands were sold : by him 
they were sold to Sir Lawrence Dundas, whose grandson, now 
Earl of Zetland, possesses the greatest part of the parish. 

About half a mile to the westward of the palace is the borough of 
Birsay. It is a small portion of pretty high land, which the force of 
the ocean has broken off from the mainland, and formed into a 
separate island, to which there is access by land only at low water. 
From the remains of a wall yet to be seen on the land-side, and 
the marks of some huts there is reason to believe, that, as the 
name imports, the spot must have formed a rock fortification. At 
a later period, a chapel was erected here, of which only one win- 
dow and part of the wall remain. It is said to have been dedicat- 
ed to St Peter. 

Pict's Houses are also very frequent in the parish, some of which 
confer names on places. Single erect monumental stones are, 
alsoj not unfrequent in the parish. 

III. — Population. 
In the year 1755, according to Dr Webster's report, as quoted 

in the Old Statistical Account, the number of souls, in Birsay and 
Harray, was 2200 souls; in 1831, it was upwards of 2387, — the 
number belonging to Birsay being 1652, and to Harray, 735. 
Amount in 1841, 1634. 

The great body of the people are of industrious habits ; and al- 
though, from the pressure of the times, they have not had it in 



452 ORKNEY. 

their power to enjoy those comforts which they did a few years 
ago, it would be injustice to conceal that they have borne their 
privations with more than ordinary patience ; and that, upon the 
whole, they are contented and happy with their situation and cir- 
cumstances. There are a considerable number of very intelligent 
individuals amongst them, and not a few who are distinguished both 
for religious principle and good moral practice. 

IV. — Industry. 

As there has never been any survey taken of this parish, the 
number of acres, arable and unarable, cannot be accurately stated. 
The extent of the parish, including hills and lochs, is computed 
to be about 38 square miles. 

Rejit of Land. — Farm rents are generally paid in money. They 
average about 8s. or 9s. an acre. The usual rent for grazing an 
ox or cow for the season is L.l, and for a ewe or full-grown sheep, 
about 7d. yearly. The valued rent is L.2701, l.^^s. 5d. Scots money. 

Improvements, — It is generally admitted, that there is no place 
in Orkney, where greater improvements in agriculture could be 
made than in Birsay, because the soil in general is good, and, 
above all, in the barony of Birsay, where there is great abundance 
of sea-weed at command for manure. If there was a new system 
of husbandry introduced, and if leases were granted for a reason- 
able time, instead of from year to year, as at present, the tenant 
might have some encouragement to cultivate the soil. The farms 
at present, with the exception of two or three, are very small, con- 
sisting of eight or nine acres each, which pay of yearly rent about 
L.8 or L.9 Sterlino:. 

Manufactures. — At no distant period, the manufacture of linen 
cloth was carried on, to a considerable extent, in this parish ; but 
now, there are few, if any, looms employed in this way. The 
chief employment of the females, now, is straw-plaiting; which 
branch of manufacture was introduced into the parish, in the year 
1807, by Mr llobert Berwick, Kirkwall. It still forms the chief 
employment of the females, though their wages are much lower 
than they were, when it was first introduced. The number of 
hands employed in this department may average about 450. Se- 
veral of the manufacturers have agencies in Stromness and Kirk- 
wall. The quantity manufactured is considerable ; but the annual 
value of it cannot be ascertained. It is sent, when plaited, to 
Manchester or Liverpool. The earnings of straw-plaiters may 
amount, at present, to about Is. 6d. or 2s. weekly. 

4 



BIllSAY AND UARKAY. 153 

Fisheries. — The great bulk of the people Id this parish are 
fishermen. A considerable number of the young men go yearly 
to Davis's Straits, and also to Hudson's Bay. There are upwards 
of twenty fishing-boats belonging to the parish ; and, when wea- 
ther permits, they are in general very successful. The kinds of 
fish of which they get the greatest numbers, are cod and dog-fish. 
Lobsters in their season are, also, got in great numbers, and her- 
rings. There are five herring-boats belonging to the parish, 
which generally go, at the fishing season, to Stronsay or Wick ; 
and in general they are very successful. Birsay would form an 
excellent herring-fishing station, provided there was a proper har- 
bour. • 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
There are few or no made roads in the parish. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The church, which is very commodious, 
though far from being a comfortable one, was erected in 1064, 
and was enlarged in the year 1760. It is at present in a state of 
bad repair. Neither is it well situated for the convenience of the 
great bulk of the population. The seats of the church are di- 
vided among the heritors according to their valuations. The manse 
was built in the year 1802, and is in tolerably good repair. The 
glebe consists of between 18 to 20 acres of arable and unarable 
ground, and its yearly rent may be stated at L.9, or thereby. The 
stipend amounts to L.210, exclusive of L.8, 6s. 8d. for furnishing 
communion elements. The average number of persons that at- 
tend church, when the weather is good, may be from 400 to 500. 
The number of male h^ads of families on communion roll, 131. 

There is only one Dissenting chapel in the parish, — belonging to 
the Antiburghers or Original Seceders. The stipend of the mi- 
nister does not exceed L.70 yearly, if so much. He depends for 
his living upon the seat rents, and the Sabbath days' collection 
made at the church doors. 

Education. — There are six schools in the parish, viz. the paro- 
chial, and five others, which are conducted by persons (two of 
them females) entirely on their own adventure. The parochial 
teacher's salary is L.26. He also holds the office of session-clerk 
and precentor, the fees of which amount to L.l, 15s. yearly. He 
has a tolerable dwellincf-house and school-room. He has also a 
garden, but not of the extent required by law ; neither is the defi- 
ciency supplied by an adequate allowance in money. All the other 
teachers are supported by school-fees alone, with the exception of 



154 ORKNEY. 

the Assembly's teacher, who enjoys a salary of L.25, besides a free 
house, school-house, garden, and fuel, together with a piece of 
ground for a cow. The total number of children attending the 
above-mentioned schools varies from 180 to 200. 

Library, — A library, which consists of about 170 volumes, 
chiefly on religious and moral subjects, was formed in 1841. The 
readers are pretty numerous. 

There are few or none under fifteen years of age in this parish, 
who cannot read or write. But endowments for the teachers are 
much required. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
who receive aid from the parish funds, is about 40, and the ave- 
rage allowance to each is Is. quarterly. In some cases, however, 
more or less is given, as the members of kirk-session think fit. The 
fund is made up of collections at the church door, mortcloth dues, 
and dues for proclamation of banns, — amounting in all to about 
L.7 or L.8 in the year. 

Inns. — There are no less than six public-houses in the parish. 

Fairs. — There are three annual fairs in the parish for the sale 
of cattle and horses. 

FueL — Peats are in great abundance in this parish, and of the 
very best quality, and all that they cost the inhabitants, is the dig- 
ging, drying, and driving home. 

Parish of Harray. 

Extent J §T. — The greatest length of the parish is about 6 miles ': 
its greatest breadth about 4 miles; and it is computed to con- 
tain about 22 square miles. The form is irregular. It is bound- 
ed on the west and south-west, by part of the parish of Sandwick ; 
on the cast, by Stenness and a small part of Firth ; and on the 
north and north-east by the parish of Kendall and Firth. 

Topographical Appearances^ Sfc. — In general, Harray is flat and 
rather swampy, and intersected by a great number of burns, which, 
from want of bridges, interrupt the progress of the traveller. The 
soil varies very much, — being, in some places, tolerably fertile, and 
in others, very unproductive. Nevertheless, the crops in general 
are good. 

Hydrography. — There are two lakes in the parish, one of which 
is of considerable size, and contains an immense number of most 
excellent trout. It is frequented by great numbers of wild ducks, 
and other aquatic birds. 



BIRSAY AND HARRAY. 155 

11. — Civil History. 

Land'owners. — The land-owners of this parish are very nume- 
rous. There are about 100 resident and non-resident. Among 
the number of the non-resident, is the Earl of Zetland, who is 
patron of the parish. 

Parochial Registers. — The earliest records of the kirk-session 
of this parish go so far back as the year 1796. The earliest re- 
gister of baptisms is dated in the year 1784, and has been continu- 
ed to the present time. 

III. — Population. 

The amount of the population in 1831, as before stated, 735 

1841, . 770 

IV. — Industry. 
The extent of the parish, including hills and lochs, is comput- 
ed to be about twenty-two square miles. The valued rent, ac- 
cording to the valuation taken in the year 1826 and 1827, is 
L. 346, 5s. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Ecclesiastical State. — The present church of Harray was built 

in 1836. It is a neat, plain building, and seated for 450 per- 
sons. It cost L.215 or thereby. Its situation is fully as con- 
venient for the parishioners as any that could have been select- 
ed. The scats are divided among the heritors, according to their 
valuations. There are no pews as yet set apart for the poor; 
but in the meantime they are accommodated by their friends and 
neighbours. 

There is no manse in the parish, the minister's place of resi- 
dence being at Birsay. The glebe is about 18 acres in extent. 
Its present rent is about L. 9. 

There is only one Dissenting chapel in the parish, — belonging 
to the Independents. The stipend of the minister must be very 
small, if it depends entirely upon the seat rents and Sabbath days' 
collection. 

The number usually attending the Established Church, when 
the weather is good, is not less than 350. The number of male 
heads of families on the communion roll, is 1 12. 

Education. — There are two schools in the parish, viz. the So* 
ciety School, and another, which is conducted by a person entirely 
at his own adventure. The total number of children attending 
these schools may average about 130. There are none in the 
parish under fifteen years of age, who cannot read or write. 



156 ORKNEY. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons who 
receive aid from the parochial funds is 12, and the average allow- 
ance to each is 2s. 6d. per quarter. In some cases, however, more 
or less is given, as the kirk-session may think 6t. The fund is 
made up of collections at the church door, mort-cloth dues, and 
marriage dues, — amounting in all to about L. 5 yearly. 

Fairs, — There are three fairs held annually in this parish, at 
which only cattle and horses are sold. 

July 1841. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

STRONSAY AND EDAY. 

PR£SBYT£RY OF NOKTU ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. JOHN SIMPSON, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Situation^ Extenty <$c. — Stronsay is situated in the south- 
eastern parts of the North Isles of Orkney, having the German 
Ocean on its east side ; the Stronsay Frith, by which it is sepa- 
rated from Shapinshay, on its west side ; and Sanday Sound, se- 
parating it from the Island of Sanday, on the north side. Its ex- 
treme length is 7 British miles, and its extreme breadth 5^. 
But, as it is of an irregular shape, being greatly indented with 
bays, it contains, including its adjacent holms, only 14 square 
miles, or 8960 imperial acres. 

Name. — Dr Barry, in his History of Orkney, gives the follow- 
ing account of the etymology of Stronsay. " From an inspection 
of the map, it appears to be not only curiously indented, but al- 
most cut into three distinct islands, which were formerly so many 
separate parishes, and this intersection has probably given rise to 
the name conferred on it by the ancients of the Isle of Strands or 
Stronsay." More probably, the name is derived from the word 
stroniy which signifies a current. And this epithet is not inappli- 
cable, as Stronsay is swept on all sides by peculiarly rapid tides. 

* Drawn up by the Rer. David Riutoul, Missionary Minister in Eday. 



STRONSAY AND EDAY. l5f 

Topography. — Stronsay has eight principal headlands and promon- 
tories. These are the following: Towards the north, Linksness and 
Huipness ; towards the east, Griceness, Odness, and Burrowhead ; 
and towards the south, Lambhead, Torness, and Rousholmhead. 
The principal bays are, Mill Bay, on the east side ; Holland's Bay, 
on the south side ; and Evigan Bay, on the west side. All the 
headlands are low, except Burrowhead and Rousholmhead, which 
consist of bold and elevated rocks. The three bays terminate in 
a sandy beach. There are two excellent harbours, each having 
two entrances, namely, Linga Sound, on the west side, protected 
by the small island of Lingholm ; and Papa Sound, on the north- 
east side, protected by the small island of Papa Stronsay. 

Stronsay is of moderate elevation. There is, however, a ridge, 
running almost continuous from north to south, considerably higher 
than the rest. 

There are several small islands connected with Stronsay. These 
are Papa Stronsay and Lingholm, already mentioned, as also the 
two holms of Huip, near the shore, on the north side, and the 
Holm of Auskerry, about three miles to the south. 

The three last holms contain only pasture grounds, and are 
uninhabited. Lingholm has one family dwelling on it, and a 
small portion of it is under cultivation. Papa Stronsay, by far 
the most valuable of these small islands, is about one mile in 
length, and one-half mile in breadth. It contains several families, 
and is very pleasant and fertile. 

Eday lies about the middle of the North Isles of Orkney, to* 
wards the north-west from Stronsay, and separated from it by the 
frith called Eday Sound, about four miles broad. It is about 
seven and a-half miles in length and three in breadth, having an 
area, including Pharey and the holms, of about eleven square 
miles. 

The name of this island has been derived, by some writers, from 
the eddies produced by the rapid tides that wash its shores. 
Others, however, have derived it from the word heath, and in 
proof of this, they refer to records some centuries back, in which 
Eday is written Etha. If this latter derivation be correct, it may 
be observed, that the name is strikingly descriptive of the cha- 
racter of the island, as heath covers the greater proportion of 
its surface. 

The principal headlands in Eday are, Veness, towards the 
south-east ; Warness, towards the south-west ; Fersness, towards 



158 ORKNEY. 

the west ; anJ ReJliead, a high promontory of red granite, to- 
wards the north. There are several bays about Eday, in which 
vessels cau anchor occasionally ; and there arc two excellent har- 
bour^ viz. that of Fersness, on the west, and Calf Sound, on the 
norths each of which has two entrances. 

Edav« though like Stronsay, of moderate elevation, yet it has 
« rtd^e considerably higher than Stronsay, running (with the 
exc^^tion of a short interruption towards the middle), from north 

to south. 

There are six small islands connected whh Eday. These are, 
the Island of Pharey, with its holms, which protect the harbour 
of Fersness, on the west, and contains sixty-five inhabitants ; the 
small red holm, between this island and the Redhead ; the Calf 
of Eday, which protects the harbour of Calf Sound ; and the two 
green holms off the south-west of Eday. All these, with the 
exception of Pharey, are pasture holms, and uninhabited. 

There are several fresh-water lakes in each of these parishes, 
particularly one in Stronsay, nearly a circle, and somewhat less 
than a mile in diameter. 

Mineralogy. — The soil, in general, rests upon a bed of grey 
slate, dipping towards the west at an angle of about thirty degrees 
with the horizon. There is some sandstone about the north-west 
shore of Stronsay. And in various parts of Eday, particularly to- 
wards the north-western part of the island, this stone abounds. 
The stone from this quarry has been much used for building in 
Kirkwall ; and it may be observed, that some of it was sent a few 
years ago for this purpose to London. In these parishes, the soil 
which predominates, is that of clay, sand, gravel, loam, and moss, 
the last particularly in the parish of Eday. In Stronsay, marl 
has been found, which has been used as manure. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land-owners, — The principal proprietors of these parishes are, 
Mr Balfour of Trenaby ; Mr Urquhart of Elsness ; Mr Hcddle 
of Melsetter; Mr M'Kenzie of Groundwater; Mr Stewart of 
Brugh ; and Mr Laing of Papdale, brother and representative of 
the late Malcolm Laing, Esq. Advocate, the author of the His- 
tory of Scotland. It may be noticed, that a large part of that 
work is understood to have been written, while the author was re- 
siding in the mansion-house of Carrick, in Eday. Carrick was 
erected into a burgh of barony during the reign of Charles the 

First. And it may be remarked, that the House of Carrick was 

3 



STR0N8AY AND EDAY. 159 

ihe residence of Mr Fea of Clestran, who, about a*century ago, 
dexterously captured the pirate Gow, who had come with Im ves- 
sel to Calf Sound, and was thus the means of arresting him in 
his wicked career, and giving him over to merited punishment. 
The late Sir Walter Scott, as is generally believed, has taken 
this incident as the groundwork of his novel, entitled the Pirate. 

Antiquities. — There are several monuments of antiquity in these 
parishes. Towards the north end of Eday, there is a standing- 
stone in the midst of a lonely heath. It is about 17 feet in 
height; and although a remarkable object, tradition says nothing 
as to its origin. There are various remains of ancient places of 
worship, and likewise places for interment, in these islands. Of 
the latter there is one deserving of more particular notice, at 
Housebay, in the south end of Stronsay. In this burying-ground, 
a number of bodies have been laid along side of each other, and 
separated from the rest by stones placed on edge at the foot and 
head, and on each side. It does not appear that wooden coffins 
had been used ; but, by way of substitute, a rude stone box had 
been formed for the head of the corpse, composed of stones set on 
edge, and one laid over them as a lid covering the face. The rest 
of the body, it seems, had been covered only with the bare earths 

There are various Picts' houses of considerable size in the 
southern parts of Stronsay. One of these is of greater magnitude 
than the rest, situated on the neck of land connecting Lambhead 
with Stronsay. It contains several apartments, which, by their 
smallness and rude construction, show that the inhabitants must 
have made little progress in the arts of civilized life. 

Below this ruin, towards the west, there are the remains of an 
ancient pier, formed, as is supposed by some, for the protection of 
vessels. It is now in such a state of dilapidation, that it is impos« 
sible to say when it was made. Its appearance is that of a mound 
of stones, extending to about 90 feet in breadth, and running into 
the sea in a westerly direction about 800 feet, and then turning 
southward in a direction towards the extreme point of Lambhead 
about the same length, — leaving, however, at the extremity, a suf- 
ficiently capacious entrance for vessels. And although, at this 
part, there is no breakwater, it may have been protected in another 
way, as a strong current runs continually past the head and across 
the entrance, so that the waves would be broken in passing it. 
The lower division of the pier (if such it was) has suffered most 
from the violence of the waves, as it is now covered over at high 



160 ORKNEY. 

• 

tide, while tb^ greater part of the upper division still appears above 
water. 

It may be observed, that this aocient pier has been scarcely, if 
at all, mentioned by former writers. And tradition says nothing 
as to which of the ancient proprietors of these islands it is to be 
referred to. 

III.-^ Population. 
There are no records of an early date, from which to give any 

account of the ancient population of these parishes. In 1781, 
they contained 1.494; and in 1831, 1827 souls. This increase 
is to be ascribed to the more extended cultivation of ground for- 
merly lying in a state of nature, and also to the improvements in 
the fishing of lobsters, cod, and herrings. 

The people in these parishes enjoy a competent share of the 
comforts of life. Besides meal and potatoes, most of them have 
some butcher- meat during the year. But their principal animal 
food is Gsh, such as cod, especially herrings in their season, as well 
as cooths and sillocks during two- thirds of the year. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture, — As there is no proper survey of these parishes, it 

is impossible to specify the relative proportions of ground in dif- 
ferent conditions. As to Stronsay, however, it is supposed that 
about one-third is arable, one-third green pasture attached to the 
various farms, and one-third heath, — most of which is undivided 
<;ommon. And as to Eday, about 1000 acres are arable, 720 green 
pasture, and the remainder is heath, but not undivided common. 

The kinds of grain commonly raised are bear or bigg, and grey 
or black oats, the latter having awns as well as the bear. Pota- 
toes also are everywhere cultivated. Various farmers have raised 
white oats and pease, as well as turnips and artificial grasses. 
And Mr Laing of Papdale, in addition to these, has raised bar- 
ley with much success. 

From time immemorial, the ordinary mode of cultivation in 
Orkney has been to sow bear and grey oats, alternately in the same 
field. And the ground is enabled to hold out with this severe 
rotation, by the great profusion of sea-weed which is everywhere 
found, and assists in manuring for the bear, — the ground seldom 
receiving any manure for the oats. 

A great proportion of the horses, cattle, and sheep, are of the 
small Orkney breed. But many excellent horses and cattle have 
been introduced from Angus-shire, and other southern counties; 



8TR0NSAY AND EDAY. 161 

and Mr Laing of Papdale has shown, on a considerable scale, that 
Cheviot and Merino sheep, or a mixture of them, thrive very well. 

The crops of grey oats and bigg, in favourable seasons, have a 
considerable appearance on the ground ; and, considering the mode 
of culture, are fully as good (particularly the bigg)2as can be ex- 
pected. It may be observed, however, that here it is not easy to 
specify the returns from a particular field, as the farmers are not 
in the practice of computing the produce by the acre. When the 
ground is in good condition, the crop of white oats and barley 
has an admirable appearance; and, when the filling season is 
favourable, approaches to the excellency of the same crops in the 
southern parts of Scotland. The soil and climate are extremely 
well adapted for the culture of turnips, potatoes, and artificial 
grasses, such as clover and rye-grass ; and very fine crops, parti- 
cularly of the two first, have been raised in this quarter. 

Of the. great farms, renting from L. 100 to L. 200 per annum, 
the leases are generally of nineteen years duration. Of farms of 
more moderate extent, the leases are in some cases shorter. And 
most of the smallest farms were let from year to year, until about 
two years ago, when the proprietor of Eday let these for the same 
period of nineteen years as the rest of his farms. It may be ob- 
served, as a peculiarity of these islands, that the farms are let for 
a gross rent, and not by the acre. Most of the farms have a con- 
siderable proportion of pasture ground attached to the arable. 

Several of the dwelling-houses on the farms are rather unsuit- 
able ; but not a few of them, particularly on the largest farms, are 
comfortable dwellings, consisting of more stories than one. The 
same distinction applies to the offices on the farms, the smaller 
ones being rather mean, while the largest farms have offices spa- 
cious and substantial. They are, in general, erected by the pro- 
prietors ; and for the most part are in a state of progressive im- 
provement. Three of the farmers in these parishes have thrash- 
ing-machines turned by horses. Most of the ground is unenclos- 
ed ; but on several of the largest farms, some substantial stone dikes 
have, within the last few years, been erected. 

The greatest part of Eday being covered with moss, presents a 
great obstacle to agricultural improvement, though it is to be allow- 
ed that this is of the greatest benefit to the inhabitants for fuel, 
and contributes a considerable share of the same important 
commodity to the inhabitants of several of the adjacent islands, 

ORKNEY. L • 



162 ORKNEY. 

and some cargoes have been sent to the Frith of Forth within the 
last two years. Almost the whole of Stronsay, with the excep- 
tion of about a square mile covered with moss, in the south-western 
partof the island, might, without much difficulty, be brought under 
cultivation. Some parts are fertile and other parts are poor, 
but it is all free of stones and wet, while there are no places so 
steep as to prevent the plough "passing along. The desiderata' are 
skill, industry, and capital, along with the division of that part 
which is now common. It must be observed, however, that, of late 
years, considerable progress has been made in extending cultivation 
over waste ground in these parishes; and one proprietor, Mr Laing 
of Papdale, stands prominently forward in this species of improve- 
ment, having, in the course of two years, made the plough to pass 
over more than 100 acres of barren moor. It is a curious fact» 
that ground which has been yielding grey oats and bigg alternately, 
for a series of years, refuses to yield white oats, and this, too, even 
though the ground is of excellent quality. The cause of this may 
be, the quantity of shell sand, which mixes more or less with the 
sea-weed, that has been used as manure for centuries, destroying 
the adhesion of the soil. But, whether this be the real cause or 
not, it is certain that white oats grow in contiguous ground that 
has been newly cultivated. 

The ease with which sea- weed can be procured as manure, by 
presenting a temptation to the fanner to have always a grain crop 
upon his ground, may be supposed to have much impeded the in- 
troduction of the improved mode of agriculture. Another obsta- 
cle which may be mentioned, is the manufacture of kelp from sea- 
weed, which, for nearly a century, has occupied a great propor- 
tion of the labouring pari of the community, during the summer 
season, and thereby withdrawn the attention of all classes from 
agriculture. The ardour for kelp making is, however, much abat- 
ed, in consequence of the little remuneration which it brings, the 
price having fallen from L.15, or even L.20 per ton, to L.5. 

Fisheries. — The fishing, which is of most importance to the great 
body of the inhabilants of these parishes, is the sillock or cooth. 
Besides furnishing the people with a considerable part of their food 
during three-fourths of the year, the taking of this 6sh, which is 
both with the bait and fly, affords to old and young a source of 
interesting amusement, more especially during the pleasant even- 
ings in summer. The lobster-fishing has been carried on hero. 



STRONSAY AND EDAY. 163 

for about half a century. This fish is caught during the months 
of April, May, and June, a httle without the low water-mark, by 
means of small boats with two n^en in each, employing for this 
purpose small nets with flesh or fish used as bait. The lobsters, 
when caught, are transferred to chests floating in some sheltered 
place, from which they are taken generally every week, and con- 
veyed to London by welled smacks. The cod-fishing for export 
commenced in the year 1828, and is prosecuted in the neighbour- 
ing seas with small sloops, for the most part decked. The herring- 
fishing was begun here by Mr David Drever, farmer at Huip, in the 
year 1814. And soon after, Mr Laing of Papdale, in connection 
with a company in London, afforded such encouragement, that the 
harbour of Papa Sound, admirably fitted for this purpose, and in the 
vicinity of the finest fishing-ground, soon became the great resort 
of boats from the North Isles, and indeed from all Orkney. Mr 
Laing, the proprietor of the adjacent ground, has built a consider- 
able village for the accommodation of fishermen who have come 
from distant places to reside here, and likewise a commodious pier 
for the curing and loading of the fish. The herring-fishing com- 
mences towards the end'of July, and continues for six or eight 
weeks, during which time the number of boats employed has been 
sometimes about 400, and most of these are manned by four, and 
some by five men. There are also anchored in Papa Sound from 
25 to 35 vessels, (sloops and brigs,) mostly from the south-west of 
Scotland, attending on the fishing. And in addition to coopers 
and others, there are several hundreds of women employed in 
cleaning and salting the fish. Numbers of persons also resort to 
the station to traflic with the curers and fishers, while visitors come 
to witness the busy scene, so that the fishing-season is a memora- 
ble part of the year in the parish of Stronsay. It may be added, 
that it is difficult to specify the average quantity caught by one 
boat, but it varies from the smallest number of crans i;o about 200. 
A common number is from 35 to 70. 

It may be added, that shoals of small whales occasionally run 
aground on these islands, or when seen ofi* the coast are hunted 
ashore by the people with boats. One of these shoals, fifty in 
number, came ashore at Rousholmn, in November 1834, which 
yielded oil to the amount of about L.IOO. And in the beginning 
of the present year, another shoal, 287 in number, came ashore 
on the west side of Eday, which yielded a return of L.398. These 



164 ORKNEY. 

fishes, however, are only rare visitors, and their return cannot be 
calculated on. 

Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised 
yearly in Stronsay, including the holnas connected therewith : 

4214 bollsof bear of 6 bushels, at Ids. 6d. per bush., L.2844 9 

570 do. of white oats of do., at 128. per bushel, 342 

5232 do. of black oats of do., at .8s. 6d. per do., 2223 12 

53 do. of pease of do., at L.l, . 53 

10069— total number of bolls of grain, . L. 5463 1 

3992 barrels of potatoes, at 2b. 3d. per barrel, 
81000 cabbages, at 2s. 6d. per 100 

59| acres of turnips, at L.4, lOs. per acre, 
9600 stones of hay, at 6d. per stone, 



L.449 


2 





101 


5 





267 


15 





245 









Cattle and horses. 

110 large horses, at L.3 per bead, for grass & fodder, li.3d0 

189 small do. at L. 1,5s per bead, for do. do. 236 5 

137 oxen, at L. 1, 10. per bead, for do. do. 205 10 

397 cows, at L.l, 10s. per head, for do. do. .595 10 

527 stirkf , at 15s. per head for do. do. 395 5 



1063 2 



1360 — total number of cattle and horses, 1762 10 

310 swine for keeping, at 5s. per head, . . 77 10 

1555 sheep, native brMsd, for keeping, at Is. 6d. . 116 12 6 

3200 rabbits yearly, — rvalue for skins and carcase, 6d. 80 

Kelp. 

2154 tons, at L.5 per ton, . IO77 \q q 

Lobsters. 

2900 lobsters, at 3d. each, . 36 5 

Herrings and cod. 

2800 barrels of herring, at lOs. per barrel, L.1400 

4 tons of cod fish, at L.12, 12s. 50 8 



— 1450 8 



Total value, L.1 1,126 18 G 



STBONSAT AND GDAT. 



E^Boq 3isiu3li 



^.£§8$ a SiS S 



*§i 



1 ^"^ j g |§ 



-^-"-"â– ''â– --rssw 



m «^ 



,|- 



||Sg3S 3 8^2 



3SSSS a ss= 



iSSiS s jji 



'J 



mi 



L.1050 8 





451 7 


6 


578 





10 





229 14 


6 


1G2 





57 





112 12 


6 


460 10 





118 10 





237 15 





75 





211 5 





97 10 





81 10 





80 10 





44 12 





37 7 


1 


m. 139 16 






166 ORKNEY. 

The average gross amount of raw produce raised yearly in Eday, 
including Pharey and the Holms. 

1616 bolls of bear, of 6 bushels to a boll, at 13s. per boll, 
785 bolls of white oats, do. to do. at lis. 6d. per boll, 
'1445boll8of black oats, do. to do. at 8s. per do. 

10 bolls of beans, do. to da. at L.I, 

2042 barrels of potatoes, at 2s. 3d. per barrel, 

36 acres of turnips, at L 4, lOs. per acre, 
2280 stones of hay, at 6d. per stone, 
90100 cabbages, at L. 1 , 5s. per 1000, 

307 cows for grass and fodder, at L. I, 10s. per head, 
79 oxen for de. do. at L.l, lOs. per head, 

317stirksfor do. do. at 158. per do. 

25 horses, (large size,) for grass and fodder, at L.3 per head, 
169 horses, (small size,) for do. do. at L.l, 5s. per do. 

300 Cheviot sheep, grass for the year, at 6s. 6d. 
180 Highland sheep, grass for the year, at 36. 6d. per head. 
920 native sheep, do. do. at Is. 9d. per do. 

223 Swine, at 4s. each, 
1630 rabbits skin and carcase, at 5{d each, 

466 fathoms of peats sold yearly from the island, at 6s. per fathom. 139 16 

1560 barrels of herrings, at . L.780 

5400 lobsters, at 3d. each, . 67 10 

8 tons of dried cod fish, at L.12 per ton, . 96 

« 943 10 

161 tons of kelp, at 1j»5 per ton, . . 805 0* 

L.5983 17 7 

V. — Parochial Economy, 
Ecclesiastical State. — There are two parish churches, both in 

central parts in these islands. The one in Stronsay was built in 
1821, the other in Eday, in 1816. Besides these, there are two 
places of worship connected with the United Secession. That in 
Stronsay was built in 1800, and that in Eday, in 1829. The pa- 
rish minister in Stronsay, until about a year and a half ago, was 
wont to cross the Sound (in breadth four miles) every fourth Sab- 
bath, to preach in Eday. But in the spring of 1834, the Com- 
mittee of the General Assembly for managing the Royal Bounty 
appointed the present missionary minister to officiate in Eday ; 
and since that time, the parish of Eday has enjoyed the same be- 
nefit of public worship, every Sabbath, as Stronsay, which has 
been also benefited by this appointment, as the minister of Stron- 
say can devote all his attention to that parish. Since the appoint- 
ment of a minister to Eday, a manse has been erected for his 
residence, partly by collections and subscriptions in Orkney and in 
the south ; and partly by the assistance of the present incumbent 
in Stronsay. 

Education. — In these parishes, there are three principal schools. 
Two in Stronsay, and one in Eday. Of those in Stronsay, one is 
the parochial school, and the other is supported by the Society for 



STRONSAY AND EDAY, 167 

Propagating Christian Knowledge. This school was established 
by the Society in the year 1782, And it may be worthy of being 
noticed, that since that time it has continued in the same family, 
being taught first by the father and afterwards by the present 
teacher, his son, who is also an elder in the parish church. The 
school in the parish of Eday is supported by the Committee 
of the General Assembly for Promoting of Education in the 
Highlands and Islands of Scotland. It was established in the 
year 1827. Previous to this time, there was no regular school in 
the parish of Eday. Although the people in Eday were thus so 
long without any public school, it should be observed that the 
children were not altogether neglected. They were for the most 
part taught to read the Scriptures by their parents or some of the 
neighbours. The Assembly's school, however, has been of great 
benefit to the parish, as it has spread education among all the fa- 
milies ; taught the young to read with more accuracy than former- 
ly, as well as taught them branches to which they could not have 
access before. 

The parish schoolmaster in Stronsay receives a salary of L.2d, 
Ids. d|d.; add to which the fees of scholars, L.d; total, L.28^ 
13s. 3|d. The teacher of the Society's school in Stronsay receives 
a salary of L. 15; add to which, the fees -of scholars, L. 1, lOs.; 
total, L. 16, 10s. The teacher of the General Assembly's school 
in Eday receives a salary of L.25; add to which, the fees of 
scholars, L. 5 ; total, L. 30. 

The average number of children attending these schools in Stron- 
say, during the summer, are 48; during the winter, 65. The ave- . 
rage number attending the Assembly's school in Eday, during 
summer, are 24 ; during winter, 36. The fees are from Is. 6d. 
to 3s. per quarter. 

Besides these schools, there are other casual schools, in more 
remote parts of the islands, taught by persons who earn their liveli- 
hood, partly from the fees of the children, and partly from follow- 
ing some other occupation. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid in these parishes, is about 27. They re- 
ceive from Is. to 15s. during the year. The only fund for relief 
of the poor is that which is procured by weekly collections in the 
parish churches on Sabbath, with the exception of a donation of 
L.2, 2s., per annum, from Mr Balfour of Trenaby for the poor 
of Stronsay. The collections amount to about L.8, 5s. Sterling, 



68 ORKNEY. 

per annum. It may be observed, that, although there are many 
poor persons in these parishes, yet they are moro able to find sup- 
port for themselves here than in large towns* If they procure 
from their relatives or neighbours some meal and a few fish and 
potatoes, these are sufficient to satisfy their wants. And though 
very poor, they enjoy a measure of health and contentment It 
may be remarked, that the people in these parishes are very chari- 
table in bestowing help, in the manner referred to, on their poorer 
neighbours. 

InnSi Alehouses^ S^, — There are seven alehouses or inns in 
these parishes, and the bad effects of these houses are the same 
here as in other parts of the country. 

Fuel. — The fuel in the parish of Eday consists wholly of peats, 
which are dug from the extensive moss that covers the greater 
part of the island. These peats are of the best sort, and when 
piled on the hearth make an excellent fire. The inhabitants of 
Eday, as has been noticed, have right to the free use of peats from 
the mosses, as a pendicle to their tenements. Several of the north 
isles of Orkney receive fuel from Eday. Boats containing parties 
of people to prepare their winter's supply, may be seen sailing from 
various quarters, in the beginning of summer, when the season for 
cutting the peats commences. They pay 6s. per fathom for them 
after they are cut and dried.* And the yearly rent accruing to 
the proprietor of Eday, for this commodity alone, is not less than 
Lf 139, 16s. per annum. The inhabitants of Stronsay were wont, 
in former times, to dig their peats from the moss of Rothesholmn, 
already referred to. This privilege, however, about fifty years ago, 
was denied them by the proprietor, and the question being brought 
before the Court of Session, it was decided in his favour. Mr 
Anderson, in his Account of these parishes in 1787, anticipated 
that this decision would " soon be found a great cause of diminish- 
ing the inhabitants." The numbers, however, have considerably 
increased since that time, showing that a scarcity of fuel is too 
feeble a barrier to check population. The tenants in Rothesholmn, 
and some other families, receive their peats, as formerly, from the 
moss. But most of the remaining families receive the little fuel 
they use from Eday, and the average expense to one family is 
about L. 1, 5s. yearly, to which may be added the expense of 
coal, as some of them use a considerable quantity. 

• The measure above-mentioned is of much greater dimensions, than that usually 
known by the fiithom. It contains 12 feet in length, C in breadth, and C in hei"ht. 

July 1841. 



PARISH OF ST ANDREWS.* 

PRESBYTERY OF KIRKWALL, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV, JAMES SMELLIE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name, — The present designation of this parish is that by which 

it has, from time immemorial, been known ; and no other, nor more 

satisfactory account of its origin can be obtained, than that it is 

derived from Saint Andrew^ the tutelary saint of Scotland. 

Extent^ Sfc. — The parish of St Andrews is situated on the east 
coast of the mainland of Orkney. Its extreme length is about 
6 miles, and its medial breadth 2. Its superficial extent has 
never been ascertained by actual measurement, but may be esti« 
mated at 13 square miles. It is bounded on the north, by Sha« 
pinshay firth ; on the east, by an arm of the sea called Stronsay 
firth ; on the south-east, by Deersound ; on the south, by the 
German ocean ; on the south-west, by an undivided common 
of some miles in extent, which lies between it and the parish of 
Holm ; on the west, by the parish of St Ola ; and on the north- 
west, by Inganess bay. It is separated from the parish of Deerness, 
with which it was formerly ecclesiastically united, by Deersound, 
and a narrow isthmus called Sandaysand. In consequence of its be- 
ing variously intersected by the sea, its figure cannot be well de- 
scribed; but the principal part lies south-east and north-west, 
while an inferior division projects from the northern end, in an 
easterly direction. 

Topographical Appearances, — The face of the parish, though 
generally flat, is diversified by gentle inequalities in the ground- 
But the highest point is not more than 350 feet above the level 
of the sea, with the steepest acclivity only nine degrees ; and the 
least elevated parts are sometimes covered by the rising tide. It 
is intersected from, east to west, by three ridges or inconsiderable 
rising grounds ; one at the south end, another at the north, and 
a third in the middle, almost equidistant from each of the others. 
The line of sea-coast, extending along the south, east, and north 

* Drawn up by thu Ruv. George Stnellic, Assistant and Successor in Lady parish, 
San day. 



170 ORKNEY. 

sides, may be eighteen miles in length. At three places, viz. the 
isthmus connecting this parish with Deerness, a small creek of 
Deersound near the church, and a part of Inganess bay, it is san- 
dy, and at the southern and eastern boundaries, it is rocky and 
precipitous. At the former of these, the face of the rock is nearly 
180 feet of perpendicular height; and at the latter 95, where it 
is not so remarkable for its elevation, as for its picturesque appear- 
ance ; some parts standing in detached columns, and presenting 
a dauntless front to the fury of the ocean. The rest of the sea 
coast, though occasionally varied by projecting cliffs, generally 
consists of a low beach, affording sea-weed for the manufacture 
of kelp. 

One of the chief natural curiosities of this place is a deep cavern, 
which in the neighbouring district is called the ffloup.* It is situated 
a few yards from the precipice on the east coast, is eighty feet deep, 
and fifty-sis by thirty wide ; and the water in its bottom commu- 
nicates with the open sea by a passage through which a boat may 
enter, at certain states of the tide and weather. Additional inte- 
rest is given to'this place by the circumstance, that Sir James Sin- 
clair, natural son of llobert Sinclair, Earl of Orkney, threw him- 
self into it, and perished. He was prompted to this horrid act, by 
fear of the vengeance of his sovereign James V., whose displeasure 
he had incurred, by representing the Islands of Sanday and Eday 
as insignificant liolms, and thus fraudulently attempting to obtain 
possession of them, as a reward for his good services in discomfit- 
in<r the Earl of Caithness and Lord Sinclair at Summerdale. 

Meteorology. — Though in rare instances, Fahrenheit's thermo- 
meter in the shade has been known to fall to 16® and rise to 74% 
yet the following may be taken as the average annual and month- 
ly heights calculated from observations made twice every day, for 
seventeen years — from January 1812 to December 1828. Ave- 
rage annual height, 44^64 

Monthly hciglit, January, 

February, 
March, 
April, 
May, 
June, 

The climate is subject to frequent and rapid alternations of tem- 
perature, as might easily be shown by a table of observations for 

• The terra gloup seems to be generic, as it is elsewhere, in these islands, applied 
to other caverns of a similar description ; and may probably he derived from the Ice- 
landic word gfoppii^ which is used with reference to the crater of a volcano. 



36°.4 


Monthly height, 


. July, 


54°.5 


37.2 


Do. 


August, 


54.3 


S8.2 


Do. 


September, 


51 .5 


41 .3 


Do. 


October, 


45. 


46. 


Do. 


November, 


40. 


52.3 


Do. 


December, 


39. 



Do. 


February, 


29.502 


Do. 


March, 


29.576 


Do. 


April, 


29.572 


Do. 


May, 


29.803 


Do. 


June, 


29.850 



ST ANDREWS. l71 

each day of a whole year. And though slight frosts are common 
in winter and spring, yet the mercury in the thermometer seldom 
remains so low as the freezing point, for one continued week. The 
character of the climate is rather damp than cold. And though 
instances have occurred, when many successive weeks during sum- 
mer have passed without a single shower, yet such are rare; and 
drought less frequently than wet proves injurious to agricultural 
pursuits. Eight or nine months of the twelve may often, not in- 
aptly, be denominated rainy. The following are the average 
heights of the barometric column, calculated from the same num- 
ber of observations made during the same period as mentioned in 
regard to the thermometer. Annual height, 29.675 inches. 

Monthly height, January, 29.607 in. Monthly height, July, 29.773 in. 

Do. Augustj 29.757 

Do. September, 29.7)0 

Do. October, 29.617 

Do. November, 29.621 

Do. December, 29.539 

In December 1833, the mercurial column was only 27.7 inches 
in height; and on the 2Gth May 1834, it was 30.67 inches, so 
that the range of the barometer is at least 2.97 inches. But 
atmospherical changes are often very rapid ; a clear and serene sky 
being not unfrequently, in the space of a few hours, entirely hid un- 
der dark and stormy clouds. 

Rain appears at all seasons of the year, in forms varying from 
gentle mist to weighty drops ; but generally falls more gradually 
here than in more southern districts of Britain. Torrents of rain 
are uncommon — the heaviest showers being usually of short dura- 
tion ; and these come from the west when the wind is strong. 
The south-west, however, in consequence of the greater frequen- 
cy of rain from that direction than from any other, may be deno- 
minated the raini/ quarter. But though the climate be damp, yet, 
owing to the gentle precipitation of moisture in general, probably 
no greater quantity of rain falls annually here than in many 
places which have the character of a much drier climate. Dr 
Barry says, ^' that, from some attempts to obtain a measurement, 
we have reason to conclude, that the annual quantity of rain that 
falls in those islands amounts to twenty-six inches at an average/' 
And this may be assumed as the quantity for this parish. 

High winds are frequent. The most furious blasts are from 
the west and north-west. But the longest continuance of wind in 
one direction is generally when it blows from the east. The fol- 
lowing are the proportions of time during which winds fronv the 
four cardinal points, or those approaching nearest to l\\^\x\^ ^^^^^ 



172 ORKNEY. 

in the course of the year, also calculated from observations made 
during seventeen years: — North, &c. 75 days; east, &c. 82.14 
days; sputh, &c 107.14 days; west, &c. 100.72. 

Hydrography. — Deersound is the best roadstead contiguous 
to this place. Notwithstanding several sinuosities in its shores, it 
may be said to lie nearly north-east and south-west. It is four 
miles long from the point of Ness, which forms one side of its en- 
trance, to its innermost part,, and from one to two miles broad. 
Being well defended on all sides, its mouth six or seven fa« 
thorns deep, and its bottom consisting of clean sandy ground mixed 
with clay, it forms a safe retreat for vessels of all sizes. Good 
anchorage may be found in many parts of it ; but perhaps the 
safest place is that behind the point of Kirbister, on the Deerness 
shore. The most common resort for vessels, however, and at all 
times a sufficiently safe situation, is in six fathoms water, about 
three-fourths of a mile from the point of Ness, and towards the 
St Andrews side of the bay, where the pilot's rule for bringing up 
a vessel-is, to bring her into a straight line with the Mull-head of 
Deerness and the point of Ness, and then anchor within that line. 
Wallace, in his History of Orkney, says, that " Deersound is 
capable of sheltering the greatest navies." It is not now much 
frequented. Formerly, a few ships bound for Davis's Straits or 
Greenland, and some engaged in the Iceland fishery, touched here, 
principally for the sake of hiring men. But, since the burning in 
1823 of Mr Scoresby's ship, the Fame of Hull, a name occurring 
in almost all scientific dissertations on the arctic regions, no whale- 
fishing vessel has been seen here ; and, by the Iceland fishermen, 
it has been almost deserted since last French war. 

Inganess Bay, the only other bay falling under our observation 
at present, is still less frequented, being exposed to the open sea 
from the north-east. It lies in the same direction as Deersound, 
but on the north-west side of the parish. It is bounded on the 
west and south by St Ola. Its length is two miles and a half, its 
breadth upwards of one, and its depth from two and a half to twelve 
fathoms. The best anchorage is about a mile from its inner ex- 
tremity, in six or six one-half fathoms water; and this is quite safe 
in certain directions of the wind. There is no tideway in either 
of these bays, except the little occasioned by the ebb and flow of 
their own waters. 

In the north end of the parish is^ the only sheet of fresh water 
deserving the name of lake. Its length is one mile ; its breadth, 
tbree-fouvihs ; and its greatest depth in winter, eleven feet of wa- 



ST ANDREWS. 173 

ter, with perhaps as many of mud. It falls five feet of perpendi- 
cular height, in dry seasons, and is then only seven feet above the 
level of the sea. In winter, it has been so completely frozen, as 
to be safely crossed on foot. 

From the small extent of territory in this part of the mainland 
of Orkney, running water never attains a magnitude greater than 
a paltry rill. And none of the springs, all of which are inconside- 
rable, possess a temperature above that of the climate, or manifest 
any remarkable chemical properties. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The direction of the strata of rocks 
is generally from east-south-east to west-north-west, with the dip 
to north-north-cast. Their inclination varies from 5^ to 13% and, 
in some situations, even more. Around the lake, they range al- 
most from east to west ; and, at one part of the precipitous coast 
on the east, they seem completely deranged ; sometimes, contrary 
to the general rule, ranging from south-west to north-east, with the 
dip to the north-west, and, at other times, while ranging in the 
same direction, dipping to the south-east, and indicating the exist- 
ence of subterranean action in their neighbourhood, at some remote 
period. From a remarkable aperture in these rocks, called the 
Hole of Row, northwards for a quarter of a mile, entire disorder 
prevails. The strata lie in all directions ; the beds are undu- 
lated in their form, more inclined than in other places, and 
some of them placed in an almost vertical position. Along the 
sea-coast, on the north, some other traces of derangement appear. 
The prevailing rocks are argillaceous sandstone and sandstone 
flag, apparently belonging to the old red sandstone formation. But 
trap dikes evidently occur at the place where the strata are so 
much deranged. Traces of calc-spar and iron pyrites are found 
in the vicinity of the latter, and of bog iron ore in the marshes. 
We do not know that any fossil organic remains, either animal or 
vegetable, were ever discovered in this place. 

The rocks are, in all cases, covered with red clay, mixed with 
gravel, over which rest sand, loam, or peat. Peat occurs both on 
the higher and lower grounds. In almost all instances, it is of a 
light and spongy consistence, of a chesnut colour, and apparently 
composed chiefly of moss and heath. But, at the bottom of deep 
moors, it is blacker, more friable, — and when dried, harder than in 
other situations ; and contains branches of trees iti a half-decayed 
state. Within the last five years, in the course of trenching a bog 
about a quarter of a mile from the minister's house, hazel-nuts 



174 ORKNEY. 

were found in a state of perfect preservation, at the distance of 
three feet below the surface of the ground, although no trees of 
that kind at present exist in the island. 

The soil seems generally to be un transported, except in a few 
sandy spots near the sea shore, where its situation and appearance 
prove that it has been accumulated by the force of the wind ; and 
in valleys, where a more than ordinary depth betrays its dependent 
character. But the circumstance of greater depth in particular 
situations, though perhaps originating in transportation, may not 
be altogether owing to that cause. For if the accumulation were 
once begun, the increase of soil itself would give greater vigour to 
vegetation, and the decay of its productions, then, independently 
of the former cause, maintain the accumulating process. And 
this proceeding in a natural course, if only commenced by the ope- 
ration of some extrinsic circumstance, might account for the phe- 
nomenon. Perhaps few places, for their extent, can boast of a 
greater variety of soil. One kind does not extend far, till it is in- 
terrupted by another. It is sometimes, though rarely, sandy, and, 
at other times, loamy, but generally clayey or mossy. Sand, 
loam, moss, and clay, are, however, found combined in infinite 
variety of proportion. But the soil that has been long under cul- 
tivation, has assumed the black colour of productiveness, from hav- 
ing been manured chiefly with decomposed organic matter. Large 
portions of the uncultivated ground are covered with a thin stra- 
tum of mossy matter, resting on gravelly clay. And this kind of 
soil, called yarpha^ yields few productions except mosses, some of 
the coarser grasses, and stunted heaths. The soil in general, in- 
dependently of the sterile clay on which it rests, is seldom more 
than three or four inches deep, unless in spots where cultivation 
has been carried on for many years, or where some extrinsic ac- 
cumulating process has been in operation ; in which cases, the 
depth is often from eight inches to a foot, and in marshes some- 
times much more. Its general character is extreme wetness, while 
rainy weather continues, — and a tendency to become hard and to 
crack in drought. 

Grubs are most common in places that have been recently 
brought under cultivation, particularly if mossy, and seldom do 
much injury to fields that are regularly ploughed. 

It is stated in the former Statistical Account, that " small bits of 
lead are sometimes found here,'* probably referring to the rocks on 
the east coast ; and such was once the general belief. But it is now 

3 



ST ANDREWS. 175 

supposed tliat iron pyrites was mistaken for lead, as none of the 
latter mineral can at present be discovered. The same has also 
been ignorantly mistaken for silver. 

Zoology. — Hares were found here at an early period, but had af- 
terwards become extinct till within the last few years, when they were 
again introduced, and they are now very numerous, much to the 
annoyance of the farmer. Rabbits are seen in different parts, but 
have a predilection for the sandy ground called links. Otters live 
in the rocks by the sea shore ; and seals abound in the bays. 
Grouse are found here and in the adjacent moors. A great va- 
riety of sea fowl occurs. Eleven species at least of the tribe Anas 
occasionally visit Deersound. Swans are seen in spring and 
autumn, as they migrate to other latitudes, and often rest for days 
on the lake, where they sometimes fall a prey to the sportsman. 
They also occasionally appear during winter, when it is supposed 
that they pass the season in the neighbourhood. Solan geese are 
sometimes seen ; and a species of sea fowl. Anas bcmicla^ Lin. 
Syst., which. has here received the name of Horra-goose, perhaps 
from its loud hoarse cry, comes to Deersound about the end of 
December, and remains till the end of February. It is worthy of 
remark, that this bird is not known to visit any oth^r part of Ork- 
ney, excepting Hoy Sound and Westray firth. Several lapwings 
choose this as a situation for rearing their young. Other migra- 
tory birds are seen in winter, as snow-buntings;, fieldfares, and 
blackbirds, &c. And the landrail is a liybernating bird common 
in this place. But, for a complete list of the great variety of birds 
which may at different seasons be found here, we refer the reader 
to Barry's History of the Orkney Islands,* where those enumerat- 
ed and described will, without many exceptions, illustrate the or- 
nithology of this parish. 

Whether deer ever lived here, it is now difficult to ascertain. 
But part of the antlers and bones of one of these animals were 
dug out of a tumulus on the glebe during the incumbency of the 
present minister ; and a few other remains of them have been 
discovered in the island. In corroboration of a prevalent tradition 
that this neighbourhood was once inhabited by these animals, we 
are reminded of a supposed derivation of the names Deersound 
and Deernessy from deer, — the one signifying the sound and the 
other the cape of deers. But, whatever may be the fact as to the 
existence of deer in this place at some former period, it is much 

• Book III. Chapter 1. 



178 ORKNEY. 

references to the one as well as the other of them in accounts of the 
Orkney Islands, and even in the Old Statistical Account. The mi- 
nister always resided in St Andrews. He officiated every alternate 
Sabbath in the adjoining parish of Deerness, till May 1830, when, 
in consequence of the Parliamentary grant of ]82d» for building 
churches and manses in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, 
the latter was blessed with a resident clergyman of its own, and 
the former with a regular dispensation of religious ordinances. 

Parochial Register. — The only parochial register is the ses- 
sion-record, which extends backwards to the year 1657, and con- 
tains an account of births, marriages, and sessional transactions. 
It was accurately kept till the year 1796 .inclusive; but from that 
period till 1804, it was sadly neglected. And, notwithstanding the 
exertions of those who have since had the charge of it, to render 
it more complete for the succeeding period, it still forms a very 
imperfect record of the parochial events of the present century, — 
the carelessness or bigotry of Dissenters often preventing them 
from applying for the registration of their children's names. 

Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are. Lord Dundas; 
James Baikie, Esq. of Tankerness ; and James Stewart, Esq. of 
Brough. 

Antiquities. — In different parts of the parish are to be found 
ruins, now almost levelled with the ground, which are called cha- 
pels. We could particularize at least four, each in a separate 
division of the parish, called an ursland^ and situated near, or in 
the midst of a considerable extent of good ground. It is thought 
that they are the remains of Roman Catholic chapels, one of 
which probably formed an appendage to the dwelling of each con- 
siderable proprietor, for whom, in former days, it was customary 
to reside on his estate. On the point of Ness, there is the vestige 
of a small rude fort, consisting of a circular embankment of earth 
and stones, which is said to have been used, in days of piracy, for 
annoying vessels when entering Deersound. One piece of ord- 
nance still lies on the spot. There are in the parish three tumuli, 
denominated howies. One of these stands on the minister's glebe, 
by the side of the lake, and projects into the water. It is about 
140 yards in circumference at the base, and 12 feet high. At the 
time at which the last Statistical Account was written, it contained 
a wall 9 feet thick, in which, says the writer, ** there seem to 
have been no apartments, or if there have, they are now filled 

with rubbish. Some pieces of wall have been found on the out- 

3 



ST ANDREWS. J 79 

side, but their use or form cannot be ascertained." Besides the 
deer's horn already alluded to, small bone rings, shells, and bones 
of various kinds ofanimals, have been found in it. Part of it has 
also the appearance of having, at one time, been a burial ground* 
Another of these tumuli stands near the centre of the parish. 
It is of a trunqated conical form, hollowed at the top, 90 yards 
around the base, and 16 feet in height It appears to have been 
surrounded by a mound, at the distance of twenty yards from the 
base, but has not been opened within the memory of man. A 
third tumulus, of larger dimensions than either of the former, 
being 36 feet high, is situated on the isthmus at the southern ex- 
tremity of the parish, and is called Dingy*s How, or Duncan's 
Height. No record or tradition remains of the age of these ac- 
cumulations, nor of the objects which they were intended to server 
but a superstitious belief, now almost exploded, once invested 
them with a sacred character, and regarded them as the residence, 
or the haunts of fairies. 

Public Buildings. — The only erections of a public nature, are, 
the plain parish church and school, unless we include two small 
and simple undershot water-mills for grinding corn. The summer 
residence of Mr Baikie of Tankerness and the manse are conspi- 
cuous among the humbler habitations of the peasantry. 

The stone used in building is sandstone flag, which is found 
here in great abundance, and of very superior quality. It is ob- 
tained at little expense, as it occurs almost every where, at a short 
distance from the surface of the ground. Roofing slate has been 
lately discovered in one part of the parish, though only of an in- 
ferior kind, and to an inconsiderable extent. The farm-houses are, 
however, generally roofed with straw or heath. And it may be re- 
marked, that the mode of thatching in these islands is different from 
that adopted in the southern parts of Scotland. The straw or heath 
is first twisted by the hand into the form of a thick rope, which, 
when so prepared, is called simmons. Parallel folds of this cordage 
are passed over the joists from eave to eave, till the whole of the 
building be once covered. A stratum of loose straw is then in- 
terposed between this, and another layer of the same cordage;, 
and these are alternated until a covering be formed, which will 
hold out the wind and rain. The inferiority of this method is, 
however, manifest, from its requiring repair, almost every year. 
But this often consists of nothing more than an additional stratum 
of simmons. 



180 ORKNEY. 

III. — Population. 
No information can be obtained respecting the ancient state 

of the population. In 1831, it amounted to 857 persons — 382 
males, and 475 females. According to the return made to Dr 
Webster in 1755, and according to the enumeration by Mr Scolly, 
the incumbent in 1772, it was at these respective periods, nearly 
the same as at present But, at the time at which the last Sta- 
tistical Account was drawn up, there was a considerable decrease, 
owing, it was alleged, to ** the continual drain of men to the navy, 
to the northern fisheries, and, above all, to Hudson's Bay. Be- 
fore the year 1741, the Hudson's Bay Company's servants were 
all taken from England, Ireland, or the Shetland Isles. About 
1741 or 1743, they began to get a few from Orkney, and, finding 
them to be submissive and industrious, they now take o^ost or all 
of their trades-folk and contracted servants from this country.'' 
Whatever effect these supposed causes may have had upon the 
population forty years ago, they certainly do not seem at present 
to exercise any sensible influence over it. 

The only person of independent fortune residing in the parish, 
is Mr Baikie of Tankerness. And the number of proprietors of 
land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, is three, viz. those 
mentioned as the chief land-owners. The number of families is 
156, and of inhabited houses, 146. There is one fatuous, and 
one blind person. 

One peculiarity in the customs of the people that may be men- 
tioned, is, that the majority of the men may be said to have no 
fixed profession, but are farmers, fishermen, and artisans, at dif- 
ferent seasons of the year. Another is, that each tenant claims 
an exclusive right to the fields which he rents, only during the 
time that ihe crop is on the ground. Although a little improve- 
ment in this respect has, of late, begun to manifest itself, yet, what 
was written for the last Statistical Account, will, in general, still 
apply. " All the cattle, horses, sheep, swine, geese, &c. go at 
large for about nine months of the year. As soon as any one te- 
nant cuts and brings in his corn, the whole country becomes at 
once a common, and all his neighbours must follow his example, 
or leave their crops, ripe or unripe, to be trodden down and de- 
stroyed." 

The people are decent in their external appearance. And al- 
though their habits, in regard to the preparation of food, and 
cleansing of kitchen utensils, might, in some cases, give ofience to 

4 



ST ANDREWS. 18l 

a delicate or refined taste, yet they are very particular in the ob- 
servance of such rules as fall within their own notions of decorum. 
They are, however, very deficient in attention to the order and 
cleanliness of their habitations. The interior of the apartment 
commonly occupied by the family is generally coated with dust, 
ashes, and soot,— owing, in no small degree, to the practice of 
having the fire-place in the middle of the room, without any other 
chimney to conduct the smoke outward, than a hole in the roof of 
the house. In addition to this, poultry, and even pigs and calves, 
as well as dogs and cats, are often admitted to a corner of the same 
apartment with the family. The food of the people consists of 
bread made of the meal of oats or bear, and sowens, which is a pre- 
paration from the siftings of oatmeal ; also of potatoes, cabbages, 
milk, butter, cheese, and fish, with a small quantity of animal food, 
— and that chiefly goose or bacon. 

Poaching is unknown ; and smuggling is almost at an end, — 
the only remaining instances of the latter being occasional attempts 
to make a little malt for private use, without previously lodging in- 
formation with the excise officer of the district 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture, — The lands never having been surveyed, and the 

cultivated parts lying in detached shreds of every size and shape, 
it is impossible to state accurately the number of acres that this 
parish contains, or that is under cultivation. But from the best 
local knowledge, we may venture to give 2200 acres, as an esti- 
mate, of the quantity ever under tillage, which is probably a.near 
approximation to the truth. Perhaps half of the ground that has 
never been touched with the plough might, by labour, be made 
yield the means, of human subsistence. But from the wetness and 
natural poverty of the soil, it is questionable whether in a corner 
so remote from markets this could, except in a very few cases, be 
done with a profitable application of capital. 

Where the extent of a farm is not known, either by the land- 
lord, his tenant, nor any one else, it is difficult to state the average 
rent of arable ground. But it may be estimated at from 7s. to 10s. 
value per acre. Along with the arable land so rented, however, 
the tenant receives as much or a greater extent of pasture ground, 
which is considered as going into the bargain. The practice of 
grazing cattle for rent is so little known, that nothing satisfactory 
can be said as to its average expense. 



182 ORKNEY. 

Wages — There are but few cases, in which farm*servants are 
hired, — the farms being generally small, and the members of the fa- 
mily sufficing for the accomplishment of the necessary work : so 
that an estimateof their wages would bedrawn from a small induction 
of particulars ; and as the terms of service are often short, and pe- 
culiar to the country, little information of general utility could be 
obtained even from these particulars. A man's wages, however, 
for a year, may be from L. 6 to L. 8, exclusive of board ; and a 
woman's, from L.2 to L.4, according to their capabilities. The 
harvest-fee, for a period understood to extend to six weeks, is from 
L. 1, Is. to L. 1, 10s. for a man ; and for a woman, 15s. or upwards. 
Hiring persons by the day for farm-work, is not yet so common as 
to enable us to say any thing decisive as to the rate of expense. 
But men may be hired for quarrying or breaking stones and 
other ordinary purposes at little more than Is. per day. Mowers, 
master-masons, and regularly bred workmen, receive from Is. 6d« 
to 2s. each per day. 

Produce^ ^c, — The kind of grain called bear or big is sold, when 
raw, by the wey^ a quantity equal to 16 stones Dutch or 18^ stones 
imperial; and when dried, then called ^< melder-corn," by the 
" meil,*' which is nearly 1 1 ^[stones Dutch or 14{ imperial. These 
quantities of raw and dried grain, respectively, are considered of equal 
value, and may be purchased at a sum varying from 14s. to L.1 Ster- 
ling. Oats, which are generally of very inferior quality, are sold af- 
ter the same manner ; only that the above mentioned denominations, 
when applied to this sort of grain, signify about a fourth less than 
when applied to bear. The "meil** of oats sells at the rate of from 8s. 
to 16s. Both kinds are frequently sold unthrashed, and the prices 
vary chiefly according to the demand for fodder. Potatoes sell at 
from 8d. to Is. per anker, i. e. from 2d, to 3d. per peck. Turnip 
and hay are not raised in sufficient quantities to become general 
articles of purchase. Cattle sell at from L.d to L.6. But the 
average price of a cow either for milk or beef, may be stated at 
L.d, 10s. ; of a sheep of the common kind, 8s. and of the larger 
breeds, L. 1 ; of geese, great numbers of which are reared here. 
Is. 9d. or 2s. each ; of common fowls, 7d. or 8d.; eggs, 2^d. to 
4d. per dozen ; and butter, 6d. or 7d. per lb. Beef varies in price 
at diflerent seasons of the year, from 2^d. to 5d. per lb. And 
most other things are in proportion. 

Live-Stock, — The species of horses most esteemed here, for or- 
dinary purposes, is that called the " garron," supposed to be of 



ST ANDREWS. 183 

Norwegian origin. Their distinctive [characters are thick necks 
and heads, with short ears. They seldom exceed fourteen hands 
and a half in height, and are very strong and hardy. The breed 
of black-cattle, which appears to be the oldest known, if not the 
indigenous, species of this country, is still common, though much 
mixed. They are small, thin, and often ill-shaped ; but this pro« 
bably proceeds from bad treatment. On the scanty pastures, which 
the soil affords them, however, they are more profitable for the 
dairy than more improved breeds ; and their flesh is highly es« 
teemed for its delicacy. The native sheep are distinguished from 
the southern breeds by inferiority of size and shape, and the exces- 
sive shortness of their tails ; and from the famous Zetland breed, 
by the general coarseness of their wool. They are sometimes of 
a gray, and at other times, of a dark tawny or black colour, as 
well as white. The head is often ornamented with horns, — that 
of the male almost always with large twisted ones, sometimes six 
or seven pounds in weight. And these frequently prove fatal to 
them in swimming. In order to obtain marine plants for food, it is 
customary for these animals in winter to repair, at low water, to the 
sea-side, where they sometimes forget the necessity of retiring from 
rocks which are insulated at half-tide, before the water entirely sur- 
rounds them ; and when they are at last swept from their foot- 
ing, the strongest often perish first in the attempt to reach land ; 
their heads being borne down into the water by the weight of their 
horns, and their destruction occasioned by what is intended to beau- 
tify their appearance when confined to their native element. A kind 
of hog, of a diminutive size, and having small tapering extremities, 
was formerly common in this place, but is now nearly extinct. Its 
most peculiar features are a ridge of strong upright bristles extend- 
ing from between the ears to the tail, the ears quite erect, and the 
back arched like that of some species of the hyena tribe. 

Husbandry. — The state of husbandry is in general wretched. 
Established customs are inveterate in spite of their absurdity, and 
there seems to be no possibility of getting out of the old beaten track. 
There are indeed one or two creditable exceptions, but the following 
may be received as the character of the husbandry commonly pur- 
sued. There is no regular rotation of crop, no rest for the soil, no 
means used effectually to clean the ground from an abundant crop 
of weeds, and no manure afforded except once in every two years. 
Bear, and a kind of smail-bearded grey oats are sown alternately 
on the same ground, from generation to generation, — the former 



184 OUKNEY. 

receiving manure, either sea- weed, the cleanings of the dwellings 
of domestic animals, or a cold inactive composition of these with 
earth, there being no lime in the place, while the latter is sown 
without any fertilizing substance, and left to wear out the transient 
effects of what raised the preceding crop. Green crop is almost 
unknown. Turnip, hay, pease, or beans, are hardly thought of. 
And potatoes, which, if properly managed, might tend to clean 
the ground, are either confined to the drier parts, or planted in so 
small quantities, that before a whole field can be taken in rota- 
tion, the good effects are lost upon what was first treated in this 
manner. The mode of ploughing is in keeping with the system 
of cropping. The ridges are seldom drawn straight. They are 
so much raised towards the middle, that there is not soil left in 
the furrow sufficient to cause almost any vegetation ; and their 
different parts are often of unequal breadths, which occasions a 
great waste of time and labour in ploughing. Little attention is 
paid to the reclaiming of waste land. Indeed, no regular plan is 
ever pursued for thus improving the district. The chief way in 
which any portion of it is reduced to cultivation is, when a person 
from inability to stock a farm, or other adverse circun^stances, re- 
treats to the common, rears a cottage, and partially subdues the 
surrounding spot. But in bringing one acre into a profitable 
state, the surface of several acres is skinned and destroyed ; and 
at best, this practice, instead of substantially improving, only studs 
the common with half-cultivated patches. Within appropriated 
bounds again, it seems an established, if not a sacred maxim, that 
what has once been ploughed shall never be allowed for a year to 
rest, and what has never been turned up, must be allowed for ever 
to remain. So far, indeed, is this principle carried, that insigni- 
ficant spots of ploughed land are not unfrequently seen in the 
midst of pasture fields, where, independently of the expense of 
labour, the crop from depredations of cattle and other causes, 
seems hardly sufficient to supply seed for the succeeding season. 
And deformed shreds of grass may be observed stretching into, 

or surrounded by corn-fields, as if it were sacrilege " curvo aratro 
laedere.*' 

Trenches have sometimes been cut, to draw off" water. But to 
the improvement of covered drains, the example has yet to be 
set. Irrigation and embanking are both unnecessary and imprac- 
ticable. 

Leases were formerly granted for three years, or for one, two, 



ST ANDREWS. 185 

and even three nineteens of years. But leases of more than a 
single year are now. seldom obtained. 

Farm buildings are constructed of stones and clay, and covered 
with thatch. They are seldom so high as conveniently to serve the 
purposes for which they are intended, and not rebuilt till they are 
actually falling down. The few existing enclosures, excepting 
those on the minister's glebe, and one other farm, are mostly in- 
sufficient turf walls. 

Improvement of any kind in agriculture cannot be said to have 
yet generally commenced. One is animated by the anticipation, 
rather than by the appearance of its first dawn, and all obstacles 
combine to retard its progress, — want of lengthened leases, want of 
capita], of enclosures, of winter herding, and want of the separa^ 
tion of the lands of different farms. It is common for the arable 
lands belonging to several farmers to be so intermixed, that the 
breadth of 100 yards can scarcely be found in the possession of 
one tenant. Lands so distributed are called run-riff : and for- 
mers who hold their lands only for a single year, such are 
styled tenants at wilL Now, where there are few or no en« 
closures, and the disproportion between the extent and the pro- 
ductiveness of the ground, is very great — where a farmer has often 
not half a dozen ridges lying together, without some of those of 
his neighbours intervening, and winding their serpentine course 
along them, — and where leases are seldom granted by the laud- 
lords to excite a spirit of improvement among their tenantry, the 
wretchedness of the husbandry cannot be altogether charged 
against the listlessness of the peasantry. And till these obstacles 
be removed, it is impossible that improvement can proceed to any 
extent, or the industrious powers and spirit of the lower ranks be 
manifested. In the same way, while one tenant cannot improve 
without the consent and co-operation, not only of all his neigh- 
bours, but also of the proprietor himself, or while improvement is 
altogether impracticable from the manner in which the lands are 
partitioned ; while there is no encouragement, at least on the part 
of the tenant, to inclose, as he holds his farm only from year to 
year ; and while, consequently, the crops which are sown have not 
a fair trial, — it is difficult to say what is the productive power of the 
soil, or what are the improvements that would reward enterprise and 
industry. But, from a few specimens of superior management, it is 
evident that the lands are capable of yielding a much greater return 
than they at present make. Whether, however, they would repay the 



186 OllKNEV. 

labour requisite to give the experiment its full forcei is a question 
not so easily answered. 

Fishery, — The only employment of this kind that is here pro- 
secuted on a large scale as a source of economical wealth, is the 
herring-fishery. The curing of herrings commenced with us 
only in 1833, and as this is but on the advance as a station, 
and the fishing has not been attended generally with its usual suc- 
cess, since it began here, nothing can yet be said as to its annual 
profits. The people of the place, however, were in the habit 
of prosecuting this employment, and delivering their fish at other 
stations, for several years before curing commenced in their own 
parish. 

Raw Produce raised in the Parish. — When most of the farmers 
know neither the quantity of grain that they sow, nor that they reap, 
but calculate both by guess, or do not calculate at all, and when 
few of the particulars under the present head of inquiry will ap- 
ply to this place, as must be evident from some of our previous re- 
marks,-^little information can be expected on this part of our sub- 
ject. But the chief sources of wealth, independently of the grain 
which is raised on the lands, are selling of cattle, fishing, and the 
savings of persons employed as seamen out of the country, who 
come home to spend the winter months, and the decline of life 
among their friends. Formerly the making of kelp, and with the 
women the plaiting of straw, formed the two principal means of 
earning money. The former of these, indeed, at one time, consti- 
tuted the chief source of revenue to the whole county. And 
though it how yields little or no direct profit to the proprietor, it 
is still an object not unworthy of his attention. For, in many cases, 
the making of a certain quantity of kelp is part of the tenure by 
which lands are held : and so long as this commodity fetches as 
much in the market as is allowed in value for making it, it is the 
ineans of bring hard cash into the hands of the landlord, and in ef- 
fect enables the tenant to pay more for his farm, than he could in 
other circumstances afibrd. 

Manufacture. — The only manufacture is that of kelp. It is not 
now conducted so]eagerly and so extensively as formerly. It might, 
at one period, have occupied sixty or seventy persons for a month : but 
now, not nearly so many. The number of hours per day that they 
work is uncertain, for those who cut the weed from which it is made 
are almost unremittingly occupied while the tide allows them to reach 
it, whether that time be day or night. They often rise at one or 



ST ANDREWS. 187 

two o'clock A. M. to prosecute their toil, and may sometimes be 
seen at it till eleven p. m. But they refresh themselves with sleep 
during part of the intervening period, when the return of the 
waters covers the sea-weed. Both men and women are employed in 
this work, the former receiving from L.1, Is. to L.1, 10s., with four 
stones of meal, and the latter from 15s. to L.1 Sterling, and three 
stones of meal, for a naonth's labour. Although persons so occu- 
pied have little sleep ; are subjected to irregular periods of refresh- 
ment ; often stand for hours in water, and seldom have their feet 
dry ; yet, as this employment engages them but for a short period, 
and that at the best season of the year, the month of June, when 
the sun is upwards of eighteen hours above the horizon, it has not 
been found prejudicial to the health of those who are not consti- 
tutionally delicate. And it does not seem, farther than any other 
occupation, to deteriorate their morals, — more than ten or twelve 
persons seldom forming one company, and single families often 
working by themselves. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
There is no town or village in the parish. The nearest town 

is the burgh of Kirkwall, which is seven miles distant from the re- 
motest, and two and a half from the nearest, part of the parish. 
The road to it is one of the best in the country, though not a 
turnpike, and has hitherto been kept in repair by means of statute 
labour. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is tole- 
rably central, being four miles from one extremity of the parish, 
and two and a half from the other. It was built in the year 180 1, 
and was enlarged and thoroughly repaired in 1827. It is, at pre- 
sent, commodious and comfortable, affording accommodation for 
upwards of 400 persons. Formerly, there was a nominal rent 
charged for some of the seats, but now there is nothing paid for 
any of them. 

The manse was originally built in the year 1756, but left in a 
very superficial state. In 1793 it was all renewed, except the 
walls, which were then heightened and much weakened by alte- 
rations. It was last repaired in 1830, when an addition was also 
made to it, and is at present comfortable, but far from a state of 
permanent sufficiency. The extent of the glebe is 17 acres, 
and its annual value may be estimated at L.6. The amount of 
stipend is L.200 per annum, exclusive of L.8, 6s. 8d. for com- 
munion elements. 



188 ORKNEY. 

There are no chapels in the parish, either in connection with 
the Established Church or any other body of Christians. There 
are 70 male heads of families, and individuals from 84 families, 
who attend the parish church. The number of persons of all ages 
who attend it, is from 250 to SCO, but the number is constantly 
varying. The average number of communicants is about 200, but, 
like the former, is variable. Divine service is regularly attended 
by almost all who profess adherence to the national church. Dis- 
senters attend divine worship beyond the bounds of the parish. 

Contributions are made here in behalf of the Orkney Church 
Bible and Missionary Society, to the amount of L. 5. The an* 
nual amount of church collections, for religious and charitable ob- 
jects, is L. 6, 10s. lOf d. at an average of eight years. 

Education. — There is no permanent school except the parochial 
one. And the branches taught in it, are reading, writing, arith- 
metic, and grammar. At present, the parochial schoolmaster is so 
nearly blind as to be incapacitated for discharging the duties of 
his office, and cannot be compelled to provide a substitute. The 
school is, however, taught by a qualified person, who, in addition 
to the school-fees, receives a small gratuity from the heritors. The 
schoolmaster's salary was, by the late augmentation, raised to L.27; 
and the school-fees, under an efficient teacher, may amount to 
from L.9 to L. 12 Sterling. He has, besides, a school-house, con- 
sisting of two comfortable apartments. The expense of attendance 
at the school is, for English, Is. 6d. ; for ditto and writing, 2s. ; 
and for these with arithmetic, 2s. 6d. per quarter. It may be af- 
firmed, that no person belonging to the parish, above seven years 
of age, and of ordinary capacity, is entirely unacquainted with the 
elements of education ; and that there is none, above ten, unable 
to read with some degree of intelligence. And the people seem to 
be so far alive to the benefits of education, that, in the present un- 
fortunate circumstances of the parochial school, they make such 
exertions as prevent their children growing up in total ignorance. 

The school is situated in the immediate vicinity of the church 
and is of course equally central. Winter, however, being the sea- 
son most convenient for attendance, and the roads being then bad, 
as well as the days short, it is hardly possible that it can be at- 
tended by the children of those who live in the more remote parts 
of the parish. The population that lies beyond the reach of con- 
venient attendance, is, probably, not more than 150 persons. And 
for the children of such, care is taken to encourage temporary se- 



ST ANDREWS. 189 

minaries of instruction. Two schools placed at a moderate dis- 
tance from the extremities of the parish, instead of one central 
school, would meet all the exigencies of the case. 

The few remaining traces of superstition are fleeing away before 
the progress of 'enlightened knowledge. But the novel and fa- 
shionable modes of education have not yet been introduced. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons receiving 
parochial aid, is 12^ at an average of eight years; to each of whom 
is allotted, only, the small pittance of from Is. 6d. to 10s. per 
annum, with occasional supplies as necessity requires. The only 
sources whence funds for their relief are derived, are, church col- 
lections, marriage dues, and payment for the use of the mortcloth, 
which, exclusively of the first, amount annually to L. 1, Ids. 9d. But 
from the same funds are paid precentor's and church officer's salaries. 
The old virtuous principle of attempting self-support, so long as it 
is possible, still so far prevails, that application for assistance is 
seldom made, till ^^ urged by necessity's supreme command I" 

Fairs, — Cattle markets are held at two places in the parish, 
Knockhall and Occlester, three times a year; at Candlemas, Mid- 
summer, and Martinmas. 

Innsy Alehouses^ 6^c, — There is only one licensed alehouse. It 
is situated at the side of the road leading to a neighbouring pa- 
rish, and at one of the places where a cattle-market is held. It 
seems to be established for a useful purpose, is orderly kept, and 
is not known to produce any bad effect upon the morals of the 
people. 

Fuel — The general description of fiiel, and indeed all that is 
used here, except a small quantity of coals, brought either from 
Newcastle or the ports on the Frith of Forth, is peat, which is ob- 
tained at the distance of a quarter of a mile, or at most two miles, 
from each house. But as each family undertakes the labour of 
cutting, drying, and carting home as much as will «uffice for its 
own consumption, — little can be said satisfactorily of the expense 
of this sort of fuel. The carting alone occupies three weeks, or 
a month of constant labour. 
Revised August 1841. 

Quoad Sacra Parish of Deerness. 
The Rev. Thomas Waugh, Minister. 



This parish lies south-east from St Andrews, from which it is 
almost separated by Deer Sound : on the other sides, it is bound- 



190 ORKNEY. 

ed by the German Ocean. From MuUhead to the isthmus, it' is 
4^ miles long, and its breadth varies from 1 to 3 miles. 

Parochial Registers. — There is only one of these : and it relates 
to marriages and baptisms. It commences in the year 1753, and, 
except for a few years, has been all along regularly kept, 

Land'Owners. — These are, the Earl of Zetland ; Mr Balfour of 
Trenaby ; and Mr Groat of Newhall. 

Population, — The amount of the population at present is 771, — 
the increase since 1831 being about 100. 

Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 8. 

Jgriculture. — Considerable improvements in agriculture have 
taken place of late years, from the introduction of improved imple- 
ments, and from the better division and enclosure of lands. 

Fishery. — The herring-fishery is prosecuted here by means of 
50 or 60 boats, each having four men and a boy. The average 
quantity taken this season, is about 50 barrels. 

Ecclesiastical State, — Number of families belonging to the Es- 
tablished Church, 141 : of Dissenting families, 12. 

The parochial church is one of the 42 endowed by Parliament- 
ary grant. Stipend L. 120. The glebe and garden occupy about 
three acres. The manse, built in 1828, is in good condition. 

Education. — There is one school in the parish. It belongs to 
the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. Salary L.12, 
besides L. 3 from the heritors. 

Poor. — About twenty persons receive parochial aid. The 
amount of church collections for their behoof is betwixt L. 9 and 
L. 10 a year. One heritor contributes one guinea yearly. 

September 1841. 



PARISH OP SOUTH RONALDSAY 

AND BURR AY. 

PUESBYTERY OF KIRKWALL, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. JOHN GERARD, MINISTER, 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

This parish consists of three parishes united, time immemorial, 
under one minister, viz. 1^/, South or St Mary's parish, compre- 
hending above one-third of the large island of South Ronaldsay, 
and three islands in the Pentland Frith, two of them inhabited, 
Swona, and one of the two Pentland Skerries ; 2</, North or St 
Peter's parish, comprehending the rest of this large island of 
South Ronaldsay ; and, Qd^ the parish of Burray, which consists 
of the islands of Burray, Hunda, and Glumesbolm. The two 
first are inhabited. 

Geology* — The highest land in the parish does not exceed' 300 
feet above the level of the sea. The general inclination of the 
rocks is to the north-west ; but some varieties of that inclination 
are truly striking. On the east side of Stoos-head, where the 
rock is above 200 feet high, the rock is suddenly depressed to 
the south-east about 75^, going down into the German Ocean, 
and, at a few yards distance on the north and south side of this, 
the general depression to north-west prevails, and continues over 
the whole parish, except a small portion east or Grimness-head ; 
and, on the north-west end of Glumesbolm, the depression is not 
less than-80^ These sudden variations in the position of the va- 
rious strata, prove clearly that all were laid down by water, and 
long continued in a soft state. The sudden depressions prove 
that softer materials below gave way to their pressure, and occa- 
sioned this variety of position. The whole of the islands in the 
parish, are composed of sandstone and dark blue slate or rather flag. 
The sandstone can seldom be quarried in thin pieces ; but the flag 
or slate may be raised in slabs from six to eight feet diameter, at 
Hoxa and Herston. 



192 ORKNEY. 

The rents io the rocks can be traced nearly in a straight line 
from south-west to north-east, over Pentland Skerry ; and it de- 
senres notice, that where they come in sight, on the other islands, 
they run in the same direction. This is easily explained by the 
general direction of all strata, as they become indurated, from the 
universal principles of their cohesion and shrinking. Shrinking 
chiefly explains the direction of the rents in all rocks, and the 
strange appearances of some within flood-mark, where the sur&ce 
of the rocks is like street paring, with round stones from two inches 
and upwards. In the deeper strata of sandstone, are many fragments 
of blue slate, quite solid, proving that they had been broken down 
from a bed or stratum, and then tossed about on the shore, and left 
in small parcels of a few inches in extent, and at other places in 
strata of two inches and upwards, between deep beds of hardest sand • 
stone. In the small rents of this rock, under and about a-quarter 
of an inch, the iron and sulphur make a crust of hardest texture, 
which withstands the waste of time for thousands of years. 

Some other appearances in this rock deserve notice. The rents, 
in some places, have formerly been of more extent than those now 
seen, as is proved by the large pieces of basaltic rock everywhere 
on the surface of moors and arable land, and on the shores, from 
2 to 9 inches in diameter. But, on the north comer of the parish 
of Birsay, within flood^mark, this is seen to perfection ; — the rent 
to twenty inches wide is filled in solid form, and projects above 
the surface of the rock washed by the tide. Till I saw this, I 
never could conceive how this substance was formed, nor whence 
it came. It seems to prove that all basaltic formation is, by heat \onct 
continued. That which we now see cold and solid was certainly 
laid down by water; and heat from the central part of our globe 
produced crystallizations of every form, from the diamond to the 
particles of sandstone. Quartz of diflerent sizes, from that of the 
pea to three inches in diameter, are found, of various colours, per- 
fectly smooth, on the highest land in Orkney ; and in this 
parish, they are found in the clay where the mountain has been 
bared by storms ; and I have seen sixty such in a piece of stone 
about a foot in diameter. 

There is evidence to an attentive observer that these islands 
came gradually into their present form and appearance. I have seen 
the roofs of the giant grass in sandstone, (a specimen of which I 
lodged in the College Museum of Edinburgh,) and have traced 
it for several feet This proves that the stratum of sandstone 



SOUTH UONALDSAV AND BURRAY. l93 

was formed in fresh water. I have also found wood lodged in the 
sandstone as it was laid on the beach, and reaching over different 
layers of the sand, and then covered over. The different depres-^ 
sions in Orkney astonish the attentive observer. They appear to 
have happened at vast distances of time from each other ; for 
that part which remained above the sea, till peat moss of considera^- 
ble depth was formed, is now under the sea. The most striking 
instance is on the north side of Widewall bay, bounded by the 
lands of Hoxa. 

The geologist who visits our island may attend to Otterswick 
bay in Sandy, — an island south of Shapinshay, and the bay of 
Skail, in the parish of Sandwick, in Pomona or Mainland. It is evi- 
dent, that the materials of which •the whole Orkney islands consist 
and the base on which the^^ rest, have sunk down very gradually, 

II. — Civil History. 
The remains of Picts' houses are numerous and of great extent. 

Of late years, a few ancient coins have been found ; but they do 
not throw light on the periods when these islands were invaded* 
The mounds called kill dikes have, in many cases, been entrench- 
ments thrown up by invaders. At the manse, there is an under- 
ground building 3 feet wide, 2^ feet high, and 11 in length, neat- 
ly paved with water-worn stones from the beach, and covered with 
thin stones. This is supposed to have been a Pictish grave. 

Some large standing stones, supposed to be Druidical monu- 
ments, still remain ; one, about 11 feet high, stands near the manse, 
and deep in the earth. 

There were nine places for Popish worship in the united pa- 
rishes, with burying-ground at eight of them. 

III. — Population. 

Population in 1831, North parish, . 1628 

rwlVr^ Je"teU "^ i ^ •" South parish 
Burray, including Hunda, 957 

Totol,2711 

Within the last twenty-four years, 480 couples have been mar' 
ried, and not above five of these were independent of fishing. 

IV. — Industry. 
Before the herring-fishing began, the people fished skrae or 
silbcks, podlies^ and sold them by thousands, — taking other fish for 
their own families. Now, much of their time is employed in pre- 
paring for herring-fishing, and less is done in laying in store for 
their families. Bad weather prevents the boats from going to sea 

ORKNEY. N 



194 OBKNET. 

in the winter season ; insomuch that I have known when there was 
not so much fish taken during five months, as would furnish one 
meal to each inhabitant of the united parishes, and when even the 
cormorants died for want of food. At other times, the influx of 
small fish into some bays was such, that nets took them up with 
ease, and in great abundance for some weeks. 

Hundreds have married in the hope of receiving L.3, 12s. of 
wages from the herring-fishing : but even this is sometimes a deceit- 
ful expectation, — that fishing being often very unproductive. 

In 1838, there were 245 herring-boats, belonging to the united 
parishes, and 4066 barrels were cured. Could the curers have 
4s. clear on each barrel, this would make L. 813 of clear gain. 

Most of the small crofts are let at double rent, in the hope of 
payment being made practicable from the proceeds of the fishing. 

The universal appetite for spirits is dreadful, and the many 
hundreds of pounds spent in this destruction of health and morals, 
is appalling. The curers give one bottle of whisky to the crew of 
every boat : and the children are taught to drink at home, &c 

At our yearly market, at Martinmas, the sums spent in drinking 
and dancing are very great. We try to suppress these practices ; 
but in vain. 

Fishings. — The cod-fishing was begun in 1817. Now, eleven 
sloops belonging to this parish are employed in it. In 1838, there 
were 116 tons, 16<^ cwt of cod, ling, and hake fish dried, at L.14 
per ton. 

Although the whole herrings cured in our stores in 1838, 
amounted to 11^,180 barrels, yet boats from other places had their 
share of the profits, and the whole produce of the fishing far ex- 
ceeded that amount. ^ 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The attendance at the parish churches 
has been far better, and our collections have actually increased, 
since a minister of the United Secession was settled in 1830. 

In the three united parishes, 939 sittings are wanted to com- 
plete the legal accommodation. If a small loft were put in each 
end of South Church, and the present seats repaired, the accom- 
modation would be complete, and the attendance much better 
North parish should have accommodation for 1020; but the ac- 
tual accommodation is only for 414, at 18 inches each ; and there 
is no accommodation for the island and parish of Burray. 

About forty years ago, the church in the island and parish of 



SOUTH RONALDSAY AND BUUUAY. * VJ5 

Burray fell into ruins, during the incumbency'of the Rev. James 
Watson, and it has not since been repaired ; while it stood, there 
was sermon, in each of the three parishes by turns. Thus the 
people could have sermon, only once in three weeks. And the 
effects of this, as may be imagined, were deplorable. 

Since 1st January 1837, the minister has preached every Sab- 
bath in North Churchy and his son has volunteered to preach 
twice every three weeks in South Church, when health and weather 
permit. 

In 1832, the parishioners offered to put a lofk in North Church, 
to accommodate 250 people. Lord Dundas, as chief heritor, con- 
sented ; but some of the other heritors discouraged the proposal. 
Baptists have, in consequence, invaded the parish. 

Education.-'^WiWisLm Tomison, a- native of South parish, who 
went into the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, about the 
year 1770, and, by his fidelity and industry, acquired a consider-* 
able fortune, left, about forty years ago, his gains for the first 
twenty-five years, for the endowment of a free school to the inha* 
bitants of the three united parishes. There is, in consequenqet 
a commodious house, and a salary of L. 40 for the teacher. To 
this endowment, the Right Honourable Lord Dundas added a croft 
of land surrounding the house. 

Mr Tomison also left L. 200 in aid of the poor's funds of his 
native parish, and a sum for the erection and endowment of a fe- 
male school ; which, in terms of his will, is left to accumulate for 
a certain period. 

A parochial school was erected, about twenty-six years ago, near 
the village of St Margaret's Hope. We have excellent teachers 
in South and North parishes. But the vast extent of these pa- 
rishes requires many more than the above schools, and the inha- 
bitants have made great exertions to supply the deficiency. . At 
present, we have eight subscription schools, making altogether ten 
schools in the three united parishes. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The people are very patient in tri- 
bulation and content with little. The heritors have not been called 
upon for an assessment But some of them have contributed li- 
berally on occasions. 

Jrins. — There are sixteen public-houses in the united parishes, 
though seven would be sufficient. 

F?/e/.— Fuel is fast wearing out in the three united parishes. 

October 1841. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

EVIE AND KENDALL. 

PRESBYTERV OF KIRKWALL, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. DAVID PITCAIRN, MINISTER 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
These parishes have retained their present names from time 

immemorial, and nothing satisfactory can be said as to their ety- 
mology. 

Extent^ 8fc. — The parish of Evie, which is the most northerly 
of the two, runs from north-west to south*east, about 6 miles in 
length, being very narrow towards the northern extremity, and 
gradually increasing in breadth, till it joins the parish of Ren- 
dall, which is much more compact, and may be estimated to ex« 
tend from 4 to 5 miles square. 

Situation, 4rc — These parishes are situated on what is commonly 
called the mainland of the Orkney Islands. They are bounded on 
the north, by the ocean ; on the north-east, east, and south-east, 
by a sound or frith, which separates them from the islands of En- 
hallow, Rousay, Wyre, Grairsay, and Shapinshay. The southern 
boundary is partly a bay of the sea, called Damsay sound, and 
partly the parish of Firth. To the west of Rendall lies the pa- 
rish of Harray ; and the parish of Birsay meets Evie on the north- 
west. 

Topographical Appearances. — Costa-head forms the northern 
termination of Evie. It is a hill of considerable size and eleva- 
tion, presenting to the ocean a face of bold and precipitous rock. 
From Costa, there is a contiguous range of hill ground, which di- 
vides these parishes from Birsay and Harray. These hills are cover- 
ed with peat moss or heath, mixed with coarse grass. Their outline 
and general aspect is exceedingly tame and uninteresting. In height, 
they are very uniform, and probably not more than from 300 to 400 
feet above the level of the sea. There are also hills of smaller di- 
mension, but of the same character, which intersect the parish of 



EVIE AND KENDALL. 197 

Rendall ; and the whole of this hill ground, which constitutes by 
far the largest portion of each parish, is undivided common,* se- 
parated from the grass and corn lands, by an earthen fence, called 
the Hill Dike. The cultivated ground generally lies on a gentle 
declivity towards the sea shore, and varies in breadth from half a 
mile, to nearly a mile and a half, in some places. 

The outline of the coast is not marked by any of those deep in- 
dentations which are common throughout Orkney. The beach, 
with the exception of one small bay, of beautiful white shell sand, 
is rocky. In some places, the rocks rise abruptly, forming a kind 
of wall against which the sea dashes ; and there are a few fissures, 
(on a small scale, however,) which are not destitute of the pictu- 
resque ; but for the most part, the rocky shore is low and 6at. There 
is no headland of any importance, except that at Costa, already 
mentioned. The principal bay is at Woodwick, and Gairsay is 
the only island which deserves notice. It is part of the parish of 
Rendall, from which it is separated by a narrow sound. It is 
nearly circular, and in circumference upwards of four miles. The 
ground gradually rises from the shore, and terminates in a beauti- 
ful conical shaped green hill, upon the summit of which there is a 
cairn of stones; but at what period carried there, or for what pur- 
pose, there is no tradition. 

Meteorology. — The ordinary range of the barometer is from 28J 
to 30. I have rarely observed it higher or lower. 

C/tma^e.— The climate of these parishes is decidedly damp. 
Besides the moist fogs which are common in spring and the be- 
ginning of summer, it seldom happens that we have a week of 
continued dry weather. There is a great humidity in the 
atmosphere, and the diseases which are prevalent, are pre- 
cisely what might be anticipated from such a climate. Fe- 
verish colds, with dysentery, occur every season ; cases of ague 
and consumption occur occasionally, and very few of the people 
who are advanced in life, are free from rheumatic attacks. To 
some constitutions, however, the climate seems to be positively 
beneficial, and many of the inhabitants outlive the allotted term 
of threescore years and ten. 

Ht/droffraphy.'^The frith that bounds the parish of Evie on 
the north-east and east, is called Enhallow Sound. It varies in 

* The common belonging to the parish of Rendall is now about to be divided. 



198 ORKNEY. 

breadth from two to three miles. There are dangerous shallows 
in the centre. In some places, it becomes suddenly deep, which 
causes what is called iq this country a *^ roast." When the tide 
ebbs over the submarine precipice, the surface is violently agitated, 
even in calm weather, and still more so when the wind is blowing 
contrary. In this sound, and likewise in that which bounds Ren- 
dall on the east and south-east, the tide ebbs and flows with a 
current at the rate of six to eight miles in stream-tides, and three 
to five miles in neap-tides, per hour. The water is strongly sa- 
line, and so beautifully transparent, that objects lying below can 
be distinctly seen at the depth of three or four fathoms. 

There are numerous springs of fine water in both parishes. 
Most of them are perennial ; but a few flow only in winter. In 
the grass parks adjoining the manse, there is a spring which never 
dries up. The water is chalybeate ; but not so strong as to be 
unpleasant. The marshy ground in the vicinity furnishes evidence 
of a connection with iron, from the scum that settles on the small 
pools, and from the colour given to the drains which have been 
cut. I have not heard of any other spring that can be denomi* 
nated mineral. 

The only lake or loch lies on the boundary line betwixt Evie 
and Birsay. It extends nearly two miles in length, and is about 
half a mile broad. There is a small island in the centre, which 
has been found, by a late decision of the Sheriff- Court, to belong 
to a Birsay proprietor. But it is admitted that one-half of the 
loch is common to Evie. There are plenty of excellent trout in 
it ; and although the depth of water is not great, yet it is of es- 
sential use in driving a meal-mill in summer, when the other mills 
are at a stand. The locality of this loch of Swana is exceedingly 
pleasing ; and, were the surrounding hills partially clothed with 
trees, the landscape would merit the title of beautiful. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The mineralogist finds these pa- 
rishes a very unfruitful field. The rocks here are all of the se- 
condary formation, passing from blue slate to white sandstone. 
The colour and consistency of strata differ widely ; some being 
almost as hard as flint, and as dark as lava; and others quite soft, 
and of a brownish-grey. The rocks are all in horizontal strata, 
with a gentle dip towards the sea ; and I am not aware of their 
suffering any derangement from cross veins or dikes. Indeed, 
wherever the soil is removed, either by water-courses or the pur- 



EVIE AND KENDALL 199 

pose of quarrying, the uniformity of the strata and also of the dip 
is very marked. 

I have not seen, nor have I been informed, of any organic re- 
mains being discovered, or of any particular spars. Towards the 
Dorth end of Evie there is a vein of pyrites ; but it is too insigni- 
ficant to be worked. 

It is said that at Woodwick, on the southern extremity of Evie, 
there is a considerable deposit of marl. If it really exists, no use 
is made of it. In the neighbourhood of the rivulets, on pieces of 
low ground, there are various deposits of sand and gravel mixed 
with clay and peat-mould, washed down from the hills. Part of 
the ground close to the manse is of this description. 

There is an inexhaustible supply of excellent peat in the va- 
rious valleys which intersect the hills. There are also peat-bogs 
in the low grounds, which might easily be drained. In Rendall 
there is a large valley, which is an unbroken peat-moss. Some 
portions of it are so full of the roots and branches of trees, that 
the people cannot work to advantage. Last summer, there was 
excavated a solid trunk of a tree. It appeared to have beeii 
of stinted growth, and was chiefly remarkable for its freshness. 
It is interesting to ascertain the fact, that trees, even of puny di- 
mensions, have at some remote period adorned a country, where 
now they can only he reared in inclosed gardens. 

The soil of these parishes is partly a rich black loam, and 
partly a mixture of clay and sand, resting on blue slaty rock, 
sometimes inclining to sandstone. In Rendall, the soil is gene- 
rally of a lighter and sharper description than that of Evie. 

Zoology. — Although the whole country is destitute of cover, the 
quantity and variety of small birds is great — starlings, larks, lin- 
nets are the most numerous. Grouse are found on the hill-grounds, 
and snipe in the marshes. As a vara avisj there once was brought 
to me a young water-hen. Sea-fowl, large and small, from the 
heron and the cormorant to the dotterel, abound ; but I am not 
aware of any species existing here, that is not common to other 
parts of Orkney. I have seen lately a very fine specimen of the 
Death's headmoth. 

Botany. — The natural grass is full of wild flowers, which not 
only give to the pasture-ground the appearance of a beautifully va- 
riegated carpet, but it is probable that this aromatic and medici- 
nal food contributes both to the health of the cattle, and the rich- 
ness of the milk. 



200 ORKNEY. 

Trees there are none, excepting in the manse garden. A few 
apple-trees, planted by a former incumbent, are now bearing ; and 
about a dozen more, planted within the last three and four years, 
(all on the wall,) are promising. Pear-trees planted at the same 
time have grown well to wood, but have neither blossomed nor 
yielded fruit. The cherry-trees of the same age have, for the last 
two seasons, made a tolerable show of blossom, and some fruit siet, 
yet we have never had a ripe cherry. These trees having all an 
exposure to the south*south-east, are protected from the winds, 
which are here most blighting. And as the soil in which they are 
planted is good, it is only the want of sunshine that can hinder 
their prosperity. 

Shortly after my settlement in 1830, I laid out a piece of plea- 
sure ground in front of the manse, and planted alders, mountain- 
ash, laburnum, ash, elm, plane, and birch. The situation is ex- 
posed to the west wind, which, even in summer, is here so hurtful 
io vegetation, that it blackens the very nettles and docks. But 
they have struck their roots deep in rich earth, and I have much 
pleasure in observing their progress. Many of the original plants 
died gradually, but beautiful suckers shot up; and there is now 
the appearance of a shrubbery. The alders and mountain-ash 
seem to thrive best. 

Under this head, it may be mentioned, that all kinds of escu- 
lents, flowers, and shrubs that suit the climate, grow with a re- 
markable luxuriance. 

II. — Civil History. 

The late Sir W. Honeyman, one of the Senators of the Col- 
lege of Justice, was born at the family residence of Aikerness in 
Evie. His extensive possessions throughout Orkney have now all 
passed into the hands of other proprietors ; and the ancient man- 
sion was pulled down about fourteen years ago, to give place to a 
modern farm-house and steading. 

The mother of Ralph and Ebenezer Erskine was of the family 
of Halcro, one of the oldest in Orkney, said to be lineally de- 
scended from a Norwegian King, and connected by marriage with 
the Royal House of Scotland. Margaret, the daughter of Hugh 
Halcro, was married to the Rev. Henry Erskine of Chirnside, at 
the kirk of Evie, 27th May 1696.* 

* It may not be uDinterustiiig to record the certificate furnished her on that occa- 
aion* of which the foUuwhig is a copy :•— 

** At the Kirk of £vic, May 27, 1666. To all and sundry into whose hands thcM 



EVIE AND KENDALL. 201 

The Hall of^Rendall is at present possessed by Mr John Hal* 
croy whose small remaining property has escaped the waste of eight 
centuries. 

Land-owners* — The principal landed proprietors at this time 
are, William Traill, Esq. of Woodwick ; John Balfour, Esq. ; and 
William Gordon, Esq. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers of Rendall were 
lost in consequence of the. house, where they were kept, having 
been burnt. There is one old volume of the Evie registers extant, 
but it is quite in tatters. It contains minutes of session from Au- 
gust 1725 to January 1759 ; also registers of births and marriages 
from 1725 to 1802. There is a new volume for the united pa- 
rishes, in which are recorded baptisms from 1802, marriages from 
1814, deaths from 1816, to this date; and since May 1830, the 
minutes of session have also been regularly kept. 

Antiquities. — Under the head of antiquities, may be mentioned 
those circular ruins commonly, though perhaps erroneously, called 
Picts houses. There are no less than nine of them, of different 
sizes and at irregular distances, planted along the shores of Evie and 
Rendall. What wasthe precise nature of these buildings, it is difficult 
to conjecture. That they were at one period inhabited, seems pro- 
bable, from the quantity of shells still found around them. There 
are also a number of tumuli in Evie, some of which were opened 
in 1818 by the son of a former minister of the parish. They 
were all found to contain a square open space, formed by four flat 
stones, having one at the bottom and another on the top. These 
holes were from one foot to two feet square, and about 18 inches 
deep. In the bottom of each, were invariably found a quantity of 
ashes, charcoal of wood, and small fragments of burnt bones. 

In the summer of 1832, when taking down a small old farm- 
house at Cottascarth in Rendall, to rebuild it, there fell from a 
hole in the wall 150 pieces of silver coins, which had been wrap- 
ped up in part of a meal sieve, overlaid with a bit of coarse wool- 
presents shall come, be it known, that the bearer hereof, Margaret Halcro, lawful 
daughter of the deceased Hugh Halcro, in the Isle of Weir,, and Margaret Stewart* 
his spouse, hath lived in the parish of Evie from her infancy, in good &me and re- 
port ; is a discreet, godly young woman, and to our certain knowledge free of all 
scandal, reproach, or blame. As also, that she is descended of her father of the house 
of Halcro, which is a very ancient and honourable family in the Orkneys ; the No- 
ble and potent Earl of Airly and Lairds of Dun in Angus ; and by her mother, of 
the Laird of Barscobe in Galloway. In witness whereof, we, the minister and clerk, 
have subscribed, &c. 



202 ORKNET. 

len cloth. These coins were chiefly sixpences, shillings, and half- 
crowns of the reigns of Elizabeth, James I., and Charles L, with 
a very few Scotch. It is not unlikely they may have been depo- 
sited in this concealment, during the usurpation of Cromwell. 
They were sold, and the landlord generously allowed his poor te- 
nant to reap the whole benefit of this unexpected treasure. 

Mr Gordon has erected a moderate-sized mansion-house at 
Burgar, where he resides. A central church for both parishes, 
and a parochial school and schoolmaster's house, have been built 
since the publication of the last Statistical Account. 

III. — Population. 

AmouDtof population in 1789, . 1564 

1811, . 1-227 

1821, . 13*29 

I831» . 1450— malti, 617; fern. 8da 

The great decrease from 1789 to 1811 most probably arose 
from so many men engaging in the army, and especially the navy, 
during the war. At a later period, in several instances, four, five, 
or six small farms were thrown into one, which also tended to di- 
minish the population; and I incline to the opinion, that, a hun- 
dred years ago, the population must have considerably exceeded 
what it was even in 1789, as the registered baptisms were nearly 
one-third more numerous. 

There being neither town nor villages, the people are all dis- 
persed over the country. 

For the last seven years, the yearly average of registered births 
has been 21? ; but a good many parents forget or decline to re- 
gister; of deaths, 14^;* of marriages, 7^. 

Mr Gordon of Outer Evie is the only person of independent 
fortune residing in the parishes. 

There are 10 proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50 
and upwards. 

There are 2 persons insane, and 4 more or less fatuous ; 3 fe- 
males are blind. 

Languages. — In the language of the people, there is an inter- 
mixture of Norse words with Scotch and English; but, on the whole, 
they speak more correctly than the peasantry do in other parts of 

• Only when the mortcloth is uscd,;have the deaths been registered. The whole 
deaths during the last six years have been about 100 ; and it deserves to be noticed, 
as an extraordinary deviation from the usual rate of mortality, that the deaths under 
ten years of age, during that time, are only 15. 



EVIR AND RrNDALL. 203 

Scotland. The accent is peculiar, though for from being unplea* 
sant. 

The people are naturally shrewd and sagacious ; their character 
is not without defects ; but in many respects, it is very estimable. 
Gross immoralities are not known here. They are quiet and 
peaceable, and remarkable for their politeness to each other, and 
for their kindness to strangers. They manifest a high respect for 
religion, and, with the exception of a very few, are a regular 
church-going people. 

IV. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State, — Evie and Kendall were originally two pa- 
rishes. It is not known when they were united : but it is suppos- 
ed to have been as early as the Reformation. There was formerly 
a church in each parish : but both falling into decay, a single 
church was built about the end of the last century in Evie, within 
a mile of the boundary of the two parishes. The church contains 
498 sittings. The number of communicants is about 620. In fa- 
vourable weather, the church is always well attended. The popu- 
lation attached to the Established Church amounts to 1350 : dis- 
senting population, about 100 Secedersand Independents. The 
stipend amounts to L. 154 : the annual value of the glebe may be 
about L. 50. 

Education. — There are one parochial and five other schools in 
the parish. The parochial teacher's salary is L. 30 per annum. 
He exacts no school fees : and about L. 4 of his salary is given to 
a young man for teaching a small number of children in the island 
of Gairsay. The parochial school is situated at Evie. One of 
the non-parochial schools is on the scheme of the Society for Pro- 
pagating Christian knowledge. All the people of the parish, of 
proper age, can read. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average amount of church 
collections for the poor is about L. 15 per annum : from mortcloth 
dues, &c. L. 1, 17s. The average number of paupers is about 40. 

November 1841. 



UNITED PARISH OF 

HOLME AND PAPLAY. 

PRESBYTERY OF KIRKWALL, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. 

THE REV. ANDREW SMITH, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Extent and Boundaries, — This parish stretches along the wind- 
ing shores of the Sound of Holme. On the north, it is bounded by 
the parishes of Kirkwall, St Andrews, and Deerness. It is four 
miles distant from Kirkwall. Its length from west to east is about 
six miles ; its breadth from north to south, betwixt one and two. 
At the west entrance of the Sound is the promontory of Howquoy 
Head ; at the east etitrance is the promontory of Koseness. 
Nearly in the middle of the Sound, stands the island of Lambholme, 
about three miles in circumference, which belongs to this parish. 
Betwixt this island and the Mainland, there is a pretty secure an* 
chorage ground, called Holme Sound. 

The soil is in general light, thin, and loamy. The climate, 
though humid, is on the whole salubrious. 

II. — Civil History. 
ianrfoMmer^.— The principal land-owner is Alexander Graeme, 
Esq. of Graemehill, who possesses nearly the whole of the parish. 
He does not reside in the parish. 

III. — Population. 

Amount of population in 1811, • 747 

1821, . 773 

1831, . 747 

Number of families in 1831, . « . . . 164 

chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 117 

trade, manufactures, or handicraft, * 17 

The population consists chiefly of farmers, who pay rents of L.IO, 
L.15, and L.20. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — There is nothing in the agriculture of this parish 
to distinguish it from the other parishes of Orkney. 



HOLME AND PAPLAY. 205 

Fisheries, — Cod and herring-fishing are carried on by the peo- 
ple of the parish in Holme Sound, and the adjacent sea« These 
fishings, however, have been very unproductive for some years 
past. 

v.— Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical Estate. — The stipend amounts to L. 157, — of 
which L. 97, 4s. lOd. is from parsonage teinds. The value of the 
glebe is about L. 4 per annum. 

Education. — Ther^ is only one school in the parish, the paro* 
chial. Salary of the master L. 26 per annum. He has also a 
crofl worth about L. 7 per annum. The parochial school was es- 
tablished here, as in most other parishes of Orkney, only about 
thirty-five years ago. Rural employment of one kind or another 
occupies the youth from seven years of age upwards, during spring, 
summer, and autumn, — and during that long vacation, they forget 
what they had acquired in the previous winter. 

Poor. — Average number of poor on the roll, 15. Average 
amount of church collections in their behalf, about L.2; average 
amount of other voluntary contributions, about L. 5^ 10s. ; of mor«i 
tifications, mortcloth dues, &c. L. 9, 10s. 

November 1841. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE COUNTY OF ORKNEY.* 



Namf.— Orcades is the ancient name of these islands ; under 
which, they are mentioned by Pomponius Mela. It is probably 
derived from Cape Orcas, which Ptolemy mentions as a promon- 
tory in Caithness. Whether the modem name of Orkney is a cor- 
ruption of the old one, or has a different etymology, we shall not 
enquire. Previous to the passing of the Reform Bill, it formed a 
complete county, and sent a representative to Parliament. But 
that act united Orkney and Zetland as one county ; and the latter 
cluster of ii^lands, which formerly was not represented, now unites 
with Orkney in returning a member. Orkney and Zetland, how- 
ever, are so unconnected in other respects, and so dissimilar, that 
this notice refers only to the Orkney group. 

Extent — The county of Orkney extends between the parallels 
58** 44' and 59° 24' north latitude, and between 2' 25' and 2P 20' 
west longitude. It is separated from Caithness by the Pentland 
Firth, which is about 12 miles broad, and thence stretching out 
to the north, it separates the Atlantic from the German Ocean. 

Its population in 1831 was 28,047, and its Parliamentary con- 
stitutcncy in 1840 was 381. 

Topography, — There is much waste ground, and many hills in 
Orkney ; but, in general, it cannot be called mountainous. The 
Ward Hill of Hoy, which is the highest, is about 1600 feet above 
the level of the sea, and other hills in that island are nearly as 
high ; but none of the other islands have hills of any considerable 
height. A few of these islands are flat, and Sanday.is particularly 
low ; so that, at the distance of some miles, the land seems to be 
sunk beneath the waves, and the more elevated houses appear like 
solitary pillars in the ocean. The great extent of coast must be 
obvious, when we mention, that the number of these islands is 67. 
Of these 27 are inhabited, and the smaller ones, called holms, are 
used for pasture, &c. 

• Drawn up by the Re?. Charles Clousion, Minister of Sandwick. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON ORKNEY. 20T 

In some places, the coast is flat and sandy ; in others, bold and 
rocky, forming a range of perpendicular or overhanging precipices 
that resist the encroachment of the waves, while the lower and 
softer portions of land have been swept away by their fury. As 
in most other parts of the world, these precipices are highest on 
the west side, those of Hoy reaching the height of 1 000 feet 
perpendicular. They present sublime scenery, and magnificent 
exhibitions of strata for the geologist. - They are frequented by a 
variety of sea-fowl, which build, in some places, as closely as pi- 
geons in a dove-cot, on the harder strata that protrude beyond the 
softer, with remarkable regularity. 

The gradual destruction of the precipices gives rise to nume- 
rous caves and fissures. These add greatly to the interest of the 
scene, which, when the waves dash against them, is one of the 
grandest in nature. 

This cluster of islands is generally divided into the Mainland or 
Pomona, which contains more than half of the population, viz. 
15,787, — the North Isles containing 8360, — and the South Isles, 
4700. 

Meteorology. — It will be seen, from the tables inserted in 
the account of Sandwick, that the mean annual temperature 
of Orkney is 46:J ; whence it appears, that neither are our win- 
ters so cold, nor our summers so hot, as those of places where 
the mean annual temperature is much the same as ours, 
such as Applegarth in Dumfries-shire, (Vide account of that 
parish.) Again, comparing our table with that kept for nine 
years by Mr Hutchison, in Glasgow, where thj mean annual 
temperature is 49.75, or 3i® above that of Orkney, I find that the 
temperature of November, December, and January is almost the 
same in both places ; but that of Glasgow gradually rises above ours 
in spring. In May, June, July, and August, it is 7® above ours, and 
falls again in September and October. This is what might be an- 
ticipated from the insular situation of Orkney ; the temperature of 
the deep surrounding ocean not being quickly changed, and the 
uniformity of its temperature producing such a uniformity near its 
shores, that excessive heat, and long-continued frost, are equally 
rare. This arrangement may be pleasant or favourable to animal 
life, but it is far from favourable to vegetation, as the luxuriance 
of our common crops depends on the temperature of three or four 
months in summer, while they are on the ground, and not at all on 
that of the rest of the year; and if we could gain a few degrees 



208 GENERiLL OBSBRTATIONS ON THE 

of temperature in these months, by sacrificing as many in winter, 
our agriculturists would greatly gain by the exchange. The above- 
mentioned tables also show, that the mean height of the barome- 
ter for twelre years, at the manses of Stromness and Saodwick, 
was 29.640. 

There are no aqueous meteors peculiar to Orkney ; but I may 
mention a kind of cloud which I hare observed four times, cover- 
ing a considerable part of the sky, hanging dowu like a dark dra- 
pery, and each time followed, within twelve hours, by a storm. 
Water spouts are not common. 

The west and south-west winds are thought to be the strongest 
and most prevalent ; but, for about two years, tbe south-east has 
prevailed very much, as may be seen from the following table, show- 
ing the number of days that the wind blew from the different quar- 
ters each month, during the year 1840. 



January, 


0,l,„. 


N~ 


N. E. 


E, 


S.K 


S. 


S. W. 


vT 


N. W. 


1 


2i 


1 


1~ 


64 


~6i 


~i 


~ 


14 


February, 


^ 




OJ 


H 


I4i 


6 


14 


14 





Marcb, . 


1 


6 


Oi 





5 







7 


H 


April, . 


H 


u 


01 





7 


4 




H 


4 


M.y. . 


H 


54 


H 


74 


4 


H 




14 


H 


Jun., . 


I 


3i 


0) 


4 


6 


04 


2 


74 


A 


July, . 


21 


74 


n 


H 


31 


â– a 


3 


5 


4* 


Augu«, . 


2 


1} 


0) 


5i 


9 


A 


a 


7 


H 




2i 


2 




2* 


3 


7 


2 


7 




Odober, . 


04 


Gl 




4 


4 


Oi 


3 


6 


H 




5 


4 


2 


2 


6 


3) 


I 


21 


a' 


Tolal. . 


3 

23 


3 


jnl 


32 


81 
77 


41 





41 


3 


1^ 


m~ 


40 



Hydragrapht^. — This country is bounded, as we have men- 
tioned, by the Pentland Firth and the Atlanticaiid German oceans : 
it is also intersected by their waters, which form firths or sounds, 
through which the stream-tide runs at the rate of nine miles an 
hour. The tides are irregular and very perplexing and dangerous 
to strangers ; but they facilitate the intercourse between the dif* 
ferent islands, carrying those who know how to take advantage of 
them, with railway speed ; so that even with a contrary wind, a to- 
lerable passage may be made, when the tide is favourable. 

In most places, there are springs of good water; and chalybe- 
ate ones are not uncommon, flowing from the granite, clay flag, or 
sandstone. There are numerous lochs. That of Stenness is by far 
the most extensive, being about fourteen miles in circumference. 

Geology and Mineralogy.* — There is a district of gra- 

* The article on this tubject, inierted in tbe aeconnl of Sanilwick, Eb applicable ta 



COUNTY OF ORKNEY. ?09 

nite and gneiss, about snc miles long, and one broad, the south 
extremity of which is in the island of Graemsay, from which it 
passes in a northerly direction, through the town and parish of 
Stromness; and the other end is seen in a precipice, on the south- 
west coast of Sandwick. Its range, however, is not continuous. 
In one place, it passes into mica slate, containing garnets ; and 
in the road above Edinburgh Park, hornblende rock is found. 

The other rocks of which Orkney is principally composed, are 
classed by geologists as of the old red sandstone formation, which 
embraces the conglomerate, certain greywacke slates, bituminous 
claystones, yellow and red sandstones, &c. 

The conglomerate forms a belt around the gneiss, from 50 to 
100 yards thick, — which contains portions of the primitive rock of 
various sizes imbedded ; and the farther from the primitive rock the 
strata are, they have less of these portions or coarse slate till they 
gradually pass into the schist, which occupies more space than all 
the other rocks together. It is argillaceous, siliceous, or calcareous ; 
but the first prevails most. The strata generally dip westward, at an 
angle about 20% particularly in the west mainland, and the nearest 
islands ; but in some places, there s^em to have been so many forces 
at work, elevating and distorting the strata, that, in a short space, 
they dip in all directions. What is in immediate contact with the 
east side of the conglomerate, in some places, dips slightly eastward. 

In two places, this is quarried as an inferior roofing slate, and 
is of the same formation as the paving stone of Caithness. Al- 
most all the houses and dikes in Orkney are built of it. When 
much weathered, as on the precipices at the west coast, the har- 
der portions protrude, and form the figured stones much noticed 
by the older writers. 

In a few places, the calcareous strata are burnt for lime, but 
not to a great extent. In others, the strata are bituminous on the 
surface, or have small cavities filled with soft bitumen, and occa- 
sionally glance-coal; or there aro numerous nodules, and veins of 
Lydian stone or chert. In the West Mainland, the§e strata are 
frequently intersected by whin dikes, the thickest of which is ten 
feet wide, and which run due west. These, and veins of py- 
rites, crumble and destroy the strata near to them, thus giving 
rise to fissures of various kinds in the precipices. It is in these 
strata that fossil organic remains so frequently occur, general- 
ly of fish, more rarely of vegetables, and both may be seen on 

ORKNEY. o 



210 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

the saoie specimen. The ichthyolites prove our schists to be iden- 
tical with those of Caithness, and of some places south of the 
Moray Frith. 

Sandstone, some hundred yards thick, lies close to the primi- 
tive rock on the coast of Sandwick. Veins of galena, associated 
with heavy spar, stromnite, quartz in veins or rock crystal, calca- 
reous spar, iron, and copper pyrites, are found in these strata. 
Upon these rests the upper sandstone, which is now considered 
as one of the rocks of the old red sandstone formation, though it 
was formerly classed among the newer sandstones. It is very soft, 
and generally of a light grey colour; but in Eday it is red. Our 
highest hills are formed of it. In Hoy, it contains a fine veiii 
of manganese; and another of brown hematite, or iron ore, is 
found there. Trap rocks also occur, as greenstone, basalt, por« 
phyry, or amygdaloid ; most frequently as whin dikes through the 
clay flag, but also through the granite on its north extremity, and, 
I think, through the upper sandstone of Hoy hill, above the green 
of Gair. One of these dikes also bounds, on its south-east side, 
a mass of amygdaloid in Walls, extending about 300 yards along 
the coast. A large bed of trap occurs in the west hills of Hoy, 
more than 100 feet thick, and extending for several miles; and in 
its neighbourhood, at Rackwick, is a fine vein of fibrous gypsum. 
The alluvial deposits are neither extensive nor interesting. 
Some rolled blocks of granite are found, far from their original po- 
sition. There are many collections of sand in the neighbourhood 
of sandy bays. There is abundance of clay, and in most parish- 
es, of peat moss ; in many places, marl ; and in some, bog iron ore. 
In the peat mosses, roots of large trees, hazel-nuts, deer's horns, 
&c. are frequently found, showing that forests formerly existed 
there. 

The decomposition of the clay flag makes,clay the predominant 
natural soil ; but in some places, there is pure sand, and these are 
mixed in various proportions ; but the best soil is a rich black loam. 
Zoology. — Orkney is particularly rich in sea birds and fish. Seals 
are pretty common, and otters rare. A few pairs of both species of 
eagle annually build in the precipices. There are several species 
of hawk and owl ; and grouse are numerous on our heath-covered 
hills. We have also the great northern, and other species of diver ; 
great numbers of gulls of difierent species ; a few swans in winter, 
and some wild geese in spring, and many species of duck all the 
year; also several kinds of grebe; and one pair of the great auk 



COUNTY OF ORKNEY. 211 

used to build here. There are many other rare birds of passage, 
or occasional visitors, which need not be specified. Several spe- 
cies.of whale, indeed all that inhabit the North Sea, have either 
run ashore on these islands, or been seen in the neighbourhood, 
and even a sea-horse from Greenland has wandered hither. All 
other species of fish found around the north of Scotland, are also 
found here, with the exception of the salmon, for which we have 
no inviting rivers. 

Butterflies and winged insects are not numerous ; but there is a 
great variety of sea insects and molluscous animals, some of which 
have not yet been honoured with a name in the catalogues, or a 
place in the collections, of naturalists. Messrs Forbes and Good- 
sir have lately brought some of them into notice, with the ^e- 
ritina fluviatilis^ which has not yet been found in other parts of 
Scotland. Lobsters and crabs are abundant, and the former are 
sent to the London market Horses, cows, and sheep are general- 
ly of a small size. 

Botany. — It will be seen in the Account of Sandwick, that the 
Flora of Orkney contains 610 species of plants, which are probably 
more than might be expected in its high latitude; 133 of these 
are sea-weeds, many of which are very beautiful, and some very 
minute. The only Orkney plant new to Britain, is the Chara 
aspera. A few may be mentioned here, which are either rare 
or beautiful ; as Primula Scotica^ and Primula elatior, Scilla 
verna^ Digitalis purpurea^ Valeriana officinalis^ Cochlearia Da- 
nicoj Epilobium angustifolium, Senecio viscosus^ Thlaspi ar^ 
vense. The following are principally Alpine plants, and are 
found in Hoy, and some of them there only ; Vaccinium myr* 
tillusj Juniperus communis^ Narthecium ossifragum^ Hypericum 
elodesy Dryas octopetala^ Rhodiola rosea^ Saxifraga oppositifolioy 
and S. hypnoideSi S. aizoides^ S. ccBspitosa^ Silene acatUiSy Solidago 
virgaurea^ Arbutus alpina^ A, uva ursi^ Azalea procumbensy Dro* 
sera longifolia, D. rotundifolia^ Pyrola rotundifoliay Scirpus pau* 
cijlorus ; also several cryptogamous plants,- which need not be spe., 
cified. 

There are no forests in Orknev ; and the climate seems 
very unfavourable to the growth of trees ; but the few plantations 
which have lately been tried, succeed so well in sheltered situa- 
tions, as to encourage the hope that more extensive plantations 
would thrive in the most sheltered inland valleys. The trees that 
succeed best, are the plane, ash, mountain-ash, elm, willow, &c» 



212 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON TBC 

Civil History. — Tbe andeot history of Orkney is Tenr interest- 
log ; and it b said that ^ there are probably few districts of the 
Mine ftize in the world, about which more has beeo written." lo 
*^ Thoughts OD Orkney and Zetland," will be found a list of nearly 
fifty printed Tolumes, and fifteen manuscripts, relatingsoldy orprin- 
cipally to these islands, besides a greater numberof Tolumes contain* 
ing passages relating to them ; but for the ancient history, we shall 
only refer to the Orkneyinga Saga, and Torfaeus* Orcades ; and 
for more modem accounts, to Wallace's description in 1693, and 
Barr\''s history, 4to, in 1803, which is the most comprehensife 
that we have. From these accounts, it appears that the first per- 
manent inhabitants of Orkney probably came from Caithness; 
that the Picts retained possession of it, for a considerable time, 
and Belus, GaiuSf and Gunnas, are mentioned as three of their 
kings, but they were conquered by Harold Harfisiger, Kin^ of 
Norway, who arrived a. n. 876, and on his return to Norway, in- 
vested Ronald, Count of Merca, with the government of Orkney. 
It was thus held by a long line of about thirty Scandinavian Earls, 
whose practice it was to fit out fleets, and sail during summer to 
neighbouring places, which they plundered, or laid under contri- 
bution, — so that they were generally known and feared, through- 
out Great Britain, and were also so much respected, that they 
intermarried even with the royal families of Scotland and Norway* 
After them, the 

*^ St Claire held princely 8way» 
O'er isle and islet, strait and bay ;** 

Earl Henry Sinclair having obtained a renewal of his investiture 
from Norway in 1379. This rule of Scandinavian Earls was 
finally terminated in 1468^ when Orkney and Zetland were 
handed over to James III. in pledge for the portion of the 
Princess Margaret of Denmark, whom he married; and ever 
since, they have remained politically united to Scotland. Af- 
ter this, the Earldom was several times annexed to the Crown, 
not to be alienated again, and as often granted to some one of 
the nobility, or sons of the King, till a redeemable mortgage to 
James, Earl of Morton, was rendered irredeemable in 1 742, and 
in 1766 he sold his estate for L.60,t)00 to Sir Lawrence Dundas, 
the great grandfather of the present Earl of Zetland, who is the 
greatest proprietor in Orkney. The Crown has also a consider- 
able estate here. Besides these, there are few who have a rental of 
JLf. 1000 a-year,* and in some parishes, so great is the subdivision 



COUNTY OF OUKNEY. 213 

of property, that a great part of it is occupied by udallers, who 
possess about ten acres or less of arable ground. 

Christianity seems to have been introduced here by St Co- 
lumba so early as a. d. 570 ; but it was again introduced by Olaus 
Friguesson, King of Norway, a. d. 1000. 

Antiquities, — What has just been said on the history of Orkney 
will throw some light on its remaining monuments of antiquity, 
for descriptions of which we must refer to the Accounts of the pa- 
rishes in which they occur ; but we may briefly notice, that to the 
Picts, or those who inhabited it, previous to the arrival of the 
Scandinavians, are ascribed the Picts' houses, such as that of 
Quanterness, near Kirkwall ; the elf-stones, tumuli, or bury- 
ing-places, such as have lately been opened in Sandwick; the 
standing-stones of Stenness, and the broughs, one of which was 
lately opened in Evie; and either to them or their successors 
we owe the dwarfie stone of Hoy, and cromlechs, or altars. To 
the Scandinavians are ascribed some graves, in which armour 
and various articles are found, — and the pundler and bismar, 
which are rude instruments still used for weighing ; and it is well 
known, that they erected the stately Cathedral of St Magnus, the 
Bishop's Palace, and Castle of Kirkwall. But the Earl's palace 
there and that at Birsay were built after the annexation to the 
Crown of Scotland, and, it is believed, also the Castle of Noth- 
land, in Westray. 

Population. — The population of the county had increased ten 
per cent during the ten years previous to 1831, and 15 per cent, 
during the ten years preceding that, probably owing, in a great 
measur J, to improvements in agriculture, and the extension of the 
fisheries. All speak English. The customs and habits of the peo« 
pie are not very different from those of others similarly situated. 
Their dress, in general, is plain, and their food as poor as need be. 
If low in the scale of earthly comforts, they stand high as an intel- 
lectual, moral, and religious people. And I believe that crime is 
less common here than in most parts of Great Britain. 

Agriculture. — In this department, considerable progress has been 
made of late, but it is still in a very backward state. The single 
stilted plough is now, indeed, a curiosity, and the common kind is 
introduced, with iron-teethed harrows, rollers, &c. which are de- 
cided improvements. A great part of the ground is occupied by 
tenants at will, in farms of not above ten acres of arable land, and 
observe no rotation, but an alternation of oats and bear, part 



214 OENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

an acre only being planted with potatoes for family use. Under this 
system, as might be supposed, the soil is so full of weeds, that the 
crop of grain is frequently choked, and the field is more pleas- 
ing to the botanist than the farmer. There are, however, many 
bright exceptions to this rule, too numerous to be named ; butamong 
our greatest proprietors, Mr Pollexfen of Cairston, Mr Baikie of 
Tankerness, Mr Heddle of Melsetter, and Mr Traill of Wood- 
wick, are the most distinguished. An enterprizing farmer from 
the south, also, has lately given a stimulus to agriculture, — so that 
there is a prospect of more extensive improvements being speedily 
introduced. Many obstacles, however, prevent these improvements 
from being generally adopted by the cottagers, such as, want of capi- 
tal and encouragement, defective leases, insufficient accommodation, 
&c. The common breeds of sheep and cattle are very small ; and for 
some years, there was little encouragement to rear or improve them, 
but the present great demand and high prices, with easy access to 
the southern markets by steam, are inducing many to try improved 
breeds. 

Quarries. — There is no quarry of consequence ; but there is 
abundance of our common clay-stone and flag for building in 
every parish. Some of this, resembling the Caithness paving- 
stone, has been polished and exported for southern markets, and 
also some of the Stromness granite ; but hitherto, these have not 
been extensively quarried. 

Fisheries, — The herring and cod fisheries have increased very 
much, of late. At the commencement of this century, they were 
entirely neglected ; but already they are so extended, as to bring 
in more money than the kelp used to do, even when the largest 
quantity was manufactured ; and they promise to be still farther 
extended. These may be considered as the substitute for kelp, 
and though they do not compensate the kelp proprietors for the 
destruction of that manufacture, yet it is believed that the pro- 
prietors will ultimately receive some benefit indirectly from the 
fisheries. During the last three years, the average number of 
sloops engaged in the cod-fishery was 18; and the quantity of 
cod cured each year, 381 tons; while the average number of her- 
ring-boats belonging to Orkney has been 724 ; and of herrings 
cured on shore and afloat, 4*2,073 barrels. These are sold by 
the fishers to the curers at about 10s. per cran or barrel ; and the 
cod bring as much per cwt., producing L. 24,852 per annum,— 



COUNTY OP ORKNEY. 215 

whereas the largest quantity of kelp ever made in one year (1826) 
was 8500 tons, which, at L.7 per ton, would produce L. 24,500,* 

Manufactures, — The principal manufacture carried on, is that 
of straw-plait for ladies' bonnets ; in which about 2000 girls are 
constantly employed, and almost all our young women, and some 
of the married, do more or less, in the intervals of their other oc- 
cupations. 

The building of boats, and making of sails, nets, and cordage, 
may also be mentioned ; and there are two licensed distillers at , 
Kirkwall, and one at Stromness. 

Navigation and Trade. — In 1833, there were 78 vessels belong- 
ing to Orkney, carrying 4049 tons, and 819 seamen ; and probably 
the number has since increased. 

The following table shows the sums received in Orkney in 1833, 
from farm-produce, manufactures, fisheries, &c. 

Bear or big, 5178 bolls, at 15s. per boll of 6 bushels, or L.1 per 
quarter, 

White oats, 1515 bolls, at 12s. do. of do., or 16s. per quarter, 

Malt, 10,696 bushels sent to Leith, say 9s. per bushel, 

Peas, 234 ditto, at ds. 

Oatmeal, 40 bolls, at 14s. per boll of 140 lb. imperial. 

Horses, cows, and oxen, 954—1 quarter horses, at L. 9«-3 quar- 
ters cattle, at L.3, 

Ditto, not entered at custom house, about 246 at ditto. 

Eggs sent to Leith, 50 tons, 100 dozen per cwt., 100,000 dozen, 
at 6d. • 

Sheep and swine, 40 of each, at L.]. 

Butter, al>out L.2000 ; hides, about L.700, 

Rabbit skins, more than 2000 dozen, at 5s. 6d per dozen, 

Feathers, about . 

Kelp, supposed scarcely to exceed 500 tons, at L.4, 10s. 

Straw manufacture, including rent, cutting, plaiting, &c. 

Herrings, 34,000 barrels, at 10s. per barrel. 

Cod, fislied by about 40 sloops of 30 toni, 14 tons each, at L. 13 
per ton, 

Lobsters caught by 432 men, in 216 boats. 

Whale £shing, about 25 ships, uking 20 men each, 500 men at L. 15, 7500 

Hudson's Bay Company pay annually for the wages of men em- 
ployed in Hud<!on's Bay, about 

Total, . 1^60114 

The two principal towns are, Kirkwall, which is a royal burgh, 
and Stromness, which is a burgh of barony. A steamer goes once 
a-week to Lerwick on one side, and to Leith on the other, touch, 
ing at intermediate ports during the summer; and all the year, 

• The number of sloops and boats engaged in fishing, and the quantity of fish 

caught; — 

Dates. No. of vessels on No of Herring- Barrels of Herrings Weight of Cod, 

Cod- Fishing. Boats. cured. tons. cwt. 

1837, 19 706 39,552 359 0^ 

1838, 18 732 36,827 875 19 

1839, 17 734 49,840 410 4 



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2l6 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

sailing packets go, about once a month, between Leithand each of the 
two towns. We have now a daily post to the south, and a post-gig 
daily travels between Kirkwall and Stromness, which carries pas- 
sengers; other vehicles also go occasionally. The public road 
between these two places is about fifteen miles long, and pretty 
good ; and there is a considerable extent of as good road in other 
parts of the Mainland. The principal harbours, and the most fre- 
quented by shipping, are those of Stromness and Long Hope, but 
there are many bays besides, in which vessels frequently take shel- 
ter ; and at the former of these places, there is a patent slip for re- 
pairing them. 

Ecclesiastical State. — Till 1832, there were six clergymen in each 
of the three'presbyteriesin the synod of Orkney ; but since that time, 
five more have been added by a disjunction of two parishes, and by 
two Government churches, one on the Royal bounty, and one aided 
by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. There is still, 
however, much need of several more ; for in some cases, one clergy- 
man has two or three parishes under his charge, and as many 
churches, so that he can only preach in each of his parishes once 
every two or three weeks, which is an evil that cries loudly for a 
remedy. There are sixteen Dissenting ministers of different sects, 
but most of them of the United Associate. Schools are esta- 
blished in all the parishes, and all the young are taught to read, 
and many of them to write. Sabbath schools are also in general 
operation. There are good pubhc libraries in each of the towns, 
both for the higher and lower classes, and similar institutions in 
most of the country parishes. There is an evident improvement 
in the conduct of the people since they have enjoyed increased 
facilities of education. Besides the usual religious, charitable, 
and other kinds of Societies, there is an " Orknev Natural His- 
tory Society,'* which has a museum in Stromness. 

The principal fairs are the Lammas fair at Kirkwall, and one be- 
ginning on the first Tuesday of September at Stromness: and there 
are numerous cattle fairs in different parishes. 

Table shewing the number of persons committed for trial or 
bailed for different offences in Orkney and Shetland in the year 
1840 : 

Offences against person, ... 6 

OflTences against property committed with violence, 1 1 
Do. do. without violence, 10 

Malicious offences against property, 4 

Other offences, , . . 15 

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ORKNEY, 



ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OF HOLME AND 

PAPLAY. 

BY THE REV. ANDREW SMITH, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
'^ The parish of Holm," says Mr Vedder in his Orcadian Sket- 
ches, '* is perhaps one of the most beautiful in the Orcadian archi- 
pelago. It slopes gently to the ^ sweet south/ and is protected 
from the influence of the northern blast by a range of heath-clad 
hills, sufficiently high for this purpose, without being high enough 
to retain their snowy coverings on the return of spring. A consi- 
derable number of limpid rivulets meander from the heights to the 
shore, giving an air of fertility and freshness to the scene, — while 
the shore itself is laved by one of the noblest friths that can 
be conceived — rushing to and from the German Ocean with tre- 
mendous velocity, and with a noise, should the wind blow in an ad- 
verse direction, ten thousand times louder than the fall of Lodore, 
so admirably described by Southey. Where, indeed, can there be 
a greater difference than between the surplus water of a puny 
mountain-lake falling from an elevation of some forty or 6fty feet, 
and the illimitable unfathomable Atlantic urging its restless course 
through a narrow strait, chafed and maddened at intervals by rock, 
islet, and headland ; while the fierce east wind sweeps o'er its agi- 
tated surface, making the white billows take even a vertical direc- 
tion, as if they would brave the very heavens." 

II. — Civil History. 
Eminent Persons. — Under this head, the family of Graeme, de- 
scendants of Bishop Grajme, who occupied the see of Orkney from 
1615 to 1638, may be mentioned as havingbeen uniformly kind and 
indulgent landlords to the people of this parish. It is stated in the 
old Account, that they had resided at their family seat of Graemes- 
hall, for a hundred years, and cherished a spirit of industry among 
their tenantry ; that the ancient rents of the farms had never been 
raised ; and that, though no leases were given, many of the tenants 
living at the time that the Account was drawn up, held the same farms 
that had been occupied by their forefathers for several generations. 
Mr Patrick Graeme, who was sheriff-depute of the county about the 



ADDITION TO HOLME AND PAPLAV, 219 

year 1770, particularly encouraged among his tenants the culture 
of flax, which was consequently more attended to in Holme at that 
time, than in any other part of Orkney. He furnished them with 
linseed gratis — had them instructed in all the particulars relating to 
the cultivation, manipulation, and manufacture of it into linen cloth. 
Their families were thus furnished with what is much wanting in the 
present day, profitable employment in the winter season and in other 
intervals of agricultural labour,-**the female domestics spinning 
it into yarn fit for weaving into cloth. It is also stated, that, for 
many years previous to the date of the old Account, (1795,) 
there had been annually exported of such cloth, woven and bleach- 
ed, in the parish, 20,000 yards, which always brought a good price 
at Newcastle and other English markets. By the profits hence 
derived, the tenantry of Holme became distinguished above their 
neighbours for industry and wealth. But, on the death of their 
benevolent landlord, who was suddenly cut off in the prime of 
life, their exertions in this branch of industry gradually relaxed, 
until their culture of flax and their linen manufacture were en- 
tirely given up. He was succeeded in the property by his bro- 
ther. Admiral Alexander Graeme, who distinguished himself in 
the action with the Dutch fleet off the Dogger Bank, where he 
lost his right arm in the cause of his country. Though he did not 
reside on his iestate, having no turn for rural affairs, yet his tenants 
always experienced from him the greatest kindness and liberality. 
Alexander Sutherland Graeme, Esq. having lately succeeded to 
the property, is, as before stated, the principal land -owner in the 
parish, — the estate of Graemeshall being ninetcen-twentieths of 
the whole. 

Parish Registers. — The register of births and marriages begins 
in 1654. The record of the kirk-session begins in 1673. It 
may be mentioned as evidence of the heterogeneous mixture of 
Episcopacy and Presbytery, which continued for several years in 
this synod, — that it is recorded of Mr George Tod, December 
11th 1681, and of Mr James Graham, February 26th 1688, that 
they " were transplanted by the bishop and presbytery from their 
former charges to the kirk of Holm, as their presentation, institu- 
tion, and induction thereto bear." 

Mili. — There is but one* mill, driven by water, to which the 
tenants are astricted, paying the usual proportions of multure, — 
a twelfth part for oats, and a sixteenth for bear. There is no kiln 



220 ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OF 

at this mill, nor, I believe, at any other mill in the county,-— but a 
kiln is an appendage to every farm-house and also to every manse. 

IIL — Population. 

It is stated in the old Account that, <^ although there are up- 
wards of 6fly farmers who pay from L. 6 to L. 12 Sterling of 
yearly rent, and who have brought up from five to ten children of 
both sexes, yet there are not four of them who have the assistance 
of a son at home of twenty years of age. From fifteen to that age, 
the youths, from a disposition to leave their native country, take to 
a sea-faring life, and most of them never return," and it is added, 
that <^ the females give material assistance in farm-work.** The 
case is much the same at present. It is to be observed, however, 
that this continual emigration of the young men proceeds not 
merely from a restless disposition which disinclines them to settle 
at home, but it is with them a case of necessity — there being no 
employment in the farm for them. Most of the youth have 
no pother means of living but engaging as hands on board of 
coasting- vessels and revenue-cutters, or vessels trading to the Bal- 
tic and foreign countries, and few of them ever return. The po- 
pulation must in this way be, at least, kept stationary. 

Every householder, both tenant and cottar, has a share of a 
fishing-boat, by which he supplies his family with fish of various 
kinds. The coal-fish, termed here, when young, sillocks, and 
when a year old, keuths, furnish both agreeable food and excel- 
lent oil, and are found quite at hand in the Sound, a little offfrom 
the shore, most part of the year ; and on going out of the 
Sound, a mile or two eastward of Rosencss, there is found abun- 
dance of haddocks, cod, ling, skate, flounders, halibut, &c. 

It is only with a view to domestic provision, however, that any 
engage in fishing. None are fishers by profession. They are a 
community of small farmers, with such a proportion of the ordi- 
nary handicrafts among them of shoemakers, tailors, smiths, car- 
penters, &c. as can find sufficient employment. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — From the period at which the old Account was 
drawn up (1795) to 1829, agriculture had been making slow advan- 
ces beyond a rude state. The plough with one stilt — the harrows 
with wooden teeth, had gradually given place to better implements. 
But the sowinor of oats and bear in uninterrupted succession, without 
any alternation of green crop, except a trifling extent of potatoes, 

continued still to be the general practice. A change of seed was 

6 



HOLME AND PAPLAY. 221 

never thought of, — nay, the worst of the grain produced on the 
farm was selected as the most proper to be sown. The produce 
accordingly was just what might be expected from such husban- 
dry, — the average produce being three times the quantity of seed 
sown for oats, and five times the quantity for bear. The fields 
were everywhere overrun with weeds, both annual and perennial. 

But since 1828, two occurrences have taken place, and that 
almost simultaneously, which promise to effect in due time a ma- 
terial alteration for the better in the agricultural industry of this 
parish. In the above year, Mr Graeme's property was surveyed, 
cleared of run-rig, and laid out into a considerable number of 
farms of various sizes ; and whereas hitherto, the tenants had, with 
only one or two exceptions, been all tenants at will, they were now 
admitted to leases of fifteen years. For the first five years, they 
were to hold at nearly the old rent, and then a small rise was to 
take place, but with liberty then to quit ; another small rise at 
the end of the tenth year, with liberty then also to quit They 
were restricted from flaying the surface of the hill-ground, — a cus- 
tom which had long prevailed among them for making up their 
compost dunghills. They were bound to a strict observance of 
winter herding, and to have a certain proportion of their farms re- 
gularly under green crop and grass. A plan of the estate was made 
out, which shows that there are 2850 imperial acres divided into 
farm^, and 4767 acres of undivided common. 

The other occurrence alluded to, was the introduction of steam 
navigation, which will prove an effectual remedy for what has hi- 
therto been a principal obstacle to agricultural improvement in Ork- 
ney — distance from the best markets for the ready and profitable 
disposal of stock. Since 1836, a powerful steam vessel has plied 
weekly for eight months of the year betwixt Leith and Kirkwall. 
In consequence of this accommodation, the farmer in this quarter, 
who formerly depended on the casual visits of drovers from the 
south, for the sale of their cattle at an inferior price, can now ship 
them on board the steamer, on the morning she sails from Kirk- 
wall, and after a run of thirty-six hours, have them ready to be 
shown in the Edinburgh market. 

The average rent of land in the parish is 10s. per acre. The an- 
nual quantity of bear grown in the parish may be averaged at 785 
bolls of 16 stones Dutch. Annual quantity of oats, 585 bolls same 
weight. 



222 ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OF 

The number of acres in ^nrass is 829 ; the number sown with 
turnip, 65 ; the number planted with potatoes, 96. 

The total rent of (he parish may be estimated at L. 876. 
The price of raw bear, on an afenige of the last seien years, 
per quarter of 348 lb. imperial, is 16s. 7d. The price of oats on 
the same average, per quarter of 184 lb. imperial, is 7s. 6d. Each 
quarter of bear or of oats is eight bushels measure. 

Of the bear, about 170 bolls are payable in kind to the Crown. 
A quantity is disposed of to the distillers in Kirkwall, and a part 
of it in malt, to the brewers there. The remainder is reserved for 
the use of the parishioners for seed. There has never been much 
oatmeal sold out of the parish. 

The bear here mentioned is what is commonly called big, an 
inferior sort of barley, and the oats are of the small black or grey 
kind. These inferior grains have been hitherto preferred, the for- 
mer on account of its ripening earlier than barley, to avoid the 
hazard of a late harvest, and the black oat, on account of its not 
being so liable to be shaken as the white kind, by those boisterous 
winds which occasionally prevail here in autumn. But there is do 
reason to doubt that, were the land once brought into good heart 
by improved modes of farming — both barley and red oats, which 
are less liable to be shaken than the white, and at the same time 
are a stronger grain, might be successfully cultivated. 

The soil, in general throughout the parish, is of a kind that rea- 
dily admits of improvement, especially by lime, (which has never 
yet been applied to it) being, for the greater part, a light black 
loam, in some places mixed with sand, and in others having a mix« 
ture of clay. But, whatever be the variety of the surface, the bot- 
tom is uniformly of a porous nature, so that whatever quantity of 
rain may fall, it soon disappears, and of course there is no marshy 
ground, nor stagnant surface water to be seen throughoutthe parish. 
From two to three tons of turnip seed grown in the parish have, 
of late, been annually exported to Edinburgh and other places, for 
which the seedsmen have readily allowed the highest current prices, 
on account of its superior quality. This is a new and quite un- 
looked for article of profitable produce to the Orkney farmer. 
Rye-grass seed sown in Orkney is equally prized by seedsmen. 

The excellence of the turnip seed naturally arises from the 
peculiar suitableness of the soil and climate to the cultivation of 
this root, which, in several instances, has succeeded here, when it 
has failed in countries further south. Here it is not subject to 



HOLME AND PAPLAY. 2^3 

the black-fly, nor any other destructive insect. It often grows to 
the size of 12 lb. or 14 lb. ; and more than thirty tons have beenpro- 
duced on an acre. 

Nor are the soil and climate less favourable to the production 
of the potato, which here has not yet been infested with the dis- 
ease called the curl, so frequently injurious to this root in the 
south ; and where the soil is in good heart, it has yielded from 
thirty to forty fold. The planting of this root is found to be the 
readiest way to bring waste and barren ground into tillage. 

No less peculiarly well qualiBed are the soil and climate for the 
production of the artificial grasses, red, white, and yellow clover. 
Rib and rye grass, with some other kinds have been cultivated most 
successfully for green food, while they have also yielded a plenti- 
ful quantity of hay. From land that will produce luxuriant crops 
of the above roots and grasses, there may also be expected, under 
a proper mode of management, corresponding crops of those kinds 
of grain which have been found best adapted to the soil and cli* 
mate. The observation may be extended to flax, which, as has 
been already stated, was for several years cultivated in this parish 
with great success, and the manufacture of which into cloth fur- 
nished useful employment to female industry, which, at the pre- 
sent time, is much wanted. The same observation may also be 
extended to hemp, to which the soil that produces flax may be 
presumed to be equally favourable. The raising of it might also 
supply employment to several additional hands, in preparing and 
{nanufacturing it into ropes, sails, and nets. 

About forty years ago, the common Orkney breed of cattle was 
the only kind generally reared in the parish. But of late years 
this breed had been considerably improved by the introduction of 
the West Highland or Dunrobin bull. And a more considerable 
improvement is now expected by means of crosses with the Tees- 
water or short-horned breed. 

A bull of this breed was introduced here, about two years and 
a*half ago. The calves of the first cross betwixt this bull and 
Orkney and Dunrobin cows advanced so quickly in size and con- 
dition, in the course of twelve months, that they were readily sold 
at nearly L. 6 per head ; a price which commonly was with diffi- 
culty obtained for the best Orkney and Dunrobin breed of 
four years old. The introduction of the Teeswater breed, either 
pure, or as crosses, has in various places tended much both to in- 



224 ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OF 

crease the size of cattle, and also to quicken their fiittening for 
the butcher. 

Prices. — It is stated in the old Account, that, " during the pre- 
vious thirty years, provisions were tripled in price, but not improved 
in quality," and that in 1762, a good mart cow could be purchased 
for 15s. When a whole carcase was purchased, the beef was had at 
a penny per pound ; and in 1795, a mart cost L. 2, 10s. At the same 
date, farmers paid their men servants from L. ), 10& to L. 4 a 
year ; and female servants from lOs. to L. I. Day-labourers, from 
6d. to 8d. without victuals ; tradesmen's wages from Is. to Is. 6d. 
Eggs were then three-halfpence a dozen ; a good fowl 6d. ; 
chickens dd. a pair ; beef and mutton from 2d. to 2^d. per lb. 

At present, the wages of a man-servant for farm-work is L. 8 a 
year ; of a woman servant L. d. The hire of a labourer in sum- 
mer is Is. per day without victuals, or 6d. with victuals. In winter, 
he is paid by the hour. Harvest hire for a man is from L. 1, 5s. 
to L. 1, IDs. ; for a woman, from J 4s. to 18s. Mowers receive Is. 
6d. a day, and six meals. The same number of meals is expect- 
ed by farm-servants, during the seed time. Eggs are now 4d. a 
dozen ; fowls 8d. a piece ; chickens 6d. a pair ; beef and mutton 
from 4id. to 6d. per pound. 

Fisheries, — It has been already stated that every householder 
has a share of a boat, by which at intervals of leisure he may pro- 
cure for his family a supply of Gsh, which forms a material article 
in their diet. They are also all adventurers in the herring fish- 
ing, which occupies them, including the preparations for it, about 
two months. These two months could be spared from the care 
of their farms, under the old mode of farming, without much in- 
convenience ; but it is rather doubtful, how far their engaging in 
this fishing may be compatible with their following out, with due 
activity and exactness, the improvements connected with their 
leases, by preparing compost manure, keeping clean their green 
crops, and harvesting their hay, the more especially, as the for- 
mer part of the season is occupied chiefly in carting home their 
peats. 

But the fishing that might be prosecuted with the greatest and 
surest emolument, and for which the country has peculiar focili- 
tics, is the cod and ling fishery ; but which, both from want of 
capital and want of hands, has been hitherto neglected. For the 
encouragement of hands making fishing their occupation, there 



HOLME AND PAPLAT. 225 

has been laid out here a site for a Bshing village, and due encour- 
agement held out to settlers. The situation is at the ferry side, 
close by the harbour of Holme Sound Bay, and is peculiarly conve- 
nient for prosecuting'the cod and ling fisheries. It is within a few 
miles of the German ocean on the one hand, and the Atlantic ocean 
on the other. All along the neighbouring coasts, and at no great dis- 
tance from the land, there are banks where cod are found in plenty. 
In proof of this, it may be mentioned that in the island of Waas, the 
small farmers on the shores of the Pentland Frith, have sometimes 
employed the time they could spare from their ordinary labour in 
fishing, and, with a few boats indifferently fitted out, have been 
known to catch from fifty to sixty thousand cod in one season. 
But had the attention of these men been solely directed to the 
occupation of fishing, and had they been provided with boats of a 
proper size and construction, they might no doubt have caught 
ten times that number in a season. 

A proof of what capital can effect on the fishing banks of Ork- 
ney, is the success of a wealthy English company who, for more 
than half a century, have employed, and still employ, about a 
dozen of welled smacks at an expense of L. 60 or L. 70 per month, 
to supply the London market with live cod and lobsters. 

V. — Parochial Economy, 
Holme Sound is a thoroughfare betwixt the eastern and western 

coasts of the kingdom, by which vessels can pass from the one to 
the other with greater dispatch, and with greater security than 
either by the Caledonian Canal when in its best state, or the Pent- 
land Frith. 

Holme has great advantages for navigation over the Pentland 
Frith and Caledonian Canal. In passing through Holme Sound, 
all that is necessary to be considered is the time of flood or ebb tide 
suitable to the course in view to be steered ; and when this is observ- 
ed, vessels, on entering the Sound are sure of falling in with a regu- 
lar current, moving during spring tides at the rate of nine miles an 
hour ; and should any mistake occur as to the proper time of tide, 
there is safe anchorage in several parts of the channel, in which 
to await the proper tide. The lights, too, erected for the direction 
of vessels entering either end of the Pentland Frith are equally 
serviceable for directing vessels to either end of Holme Sound ; a 
light-house, erected forty years ago on a skerry at the eastern 
opening of the Frith, is a plain guide to the eastern opening of 
Holme Sound, which is but twelve miles farther north, betwixt the 



226 ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OP 

Head of Roseness and the opposite point of Burray, ichere there 
are neither rocks nor shoals. The light-house, too, recently 
erected on the north-west extremity of Dunnet Head, for prevent- 
ing vessels mistaking the bay of Dunnet for the Pentland Frith, 
formerly a cause of shipwreck, is of equal importance as a guide 
for vessels making for or departing from the western entrance of 
Holme Sound by Stromness and Hoymouth, which is but fourteen 
miles of a straight course farther north than the western entrance 
of the Frith. Here, too, the navigation is safe. During last war, 
large convoys of merchant vessels bound for the Baltic, after ren- 
dezvouzing in Long Hope of Waas, commonly preferred the.course 
eastward by Holme Sound to that by the frith, aud were occasionally 
seen passing along the Sound to the number sometimes of from for- 
ty to sixty sail. Skeldaquoy Point, stretching out to the length of 
a quarter of a mile from the shore, forms the west side of what is cal- 
led Holme Sound Bay, where vessels of 200 tons may conveniently 
anchor. It is from this part of the shore that the post and tra- 
vellers are ferried over to Burray. The ferry is about four miles 
and a-half broad, and with a good boat and crew is attended with 
no danger. 

There has been, for some time past, a daily post from Edinburgh, 
which, during the summer, generally reaches Kirkwall within the 
third day. Tlie mail is dispatched from Kirkwall by a foot-post 
to the ferry of Holme, where a boat with four men crosses over 
to Burray. He then proceeds across Burray to the small ferry 
of Water Sounds by which he crosses over in a boat with two men 
to the village of St Margaret's Hope, in South Ronaldsay, where 
there is a sub-post-office. From that, he proceeds through South 
Ronaldsay, a distance of about eight miles to Burwick, on the 
Pentland Frith, — from which the mail is conveyed in a boat with 
four men, across the Frith, a breadth of twelve miles, to Huna in 
Caithness ; from which a gig post takes it to Wick, a distance 
of eighteen or twenty miles. 

Ecclesiastical State. — This is one of the few parishes in Orkney 
in which there has always been but one church. According to tra- 
dition, it was dedicated to St Nicolas. It is situated in the east- 
most district of the parish, called Paplay. Of this name for the 
site of church and manse, there are instances in other Orkney pa- 
rishes. The Paplays are ^always the most fertile spots of a parish, 
and are supposed to have been so named from their being alloited 
for the residence of the papse or priests in the times of popery. The 

9 



V 



HOLME AND PAPLAT. 227 

site of the church of Holme is far from being centrical. It is from 
four to five miles distant from the west end of the parish, where the 
population is equally dense as in the other quarters of it. It was re- 
built in 1818, and affords sufficient accommodation. It is kept in 
good repair. No seat rents have ever been exacted. The average 
number of communicants is from 100 to 1 10. A new manse and of- 
fices were built in 1804, all in the most substantial manner, and 
on the most convenient plan, and are kept in good repair. The 
glebe consists of about seven acres. The soil is good ; but the shores 
were the most valuable part of it, so long as there was a market for 
kelp, as they yielded annually about four tons of kelp, which sold at 
an average of L. 7 per ton ; but, for some years past, the expense 
of making it would exceed any price that could be obtained for it. 
Up to 1815, the stipend, in common with that of six other pa- 
rishes in the synod, was on a very anomalous footing. It consisted 
of certain portions of malt and grease butter, paid out of the cu- 
mulo revenues of the bishopric The allotment out of these re- 
venues for the stipend of Holme, consisted of 86 meils of malt 
weighed on the malt pundler, (the meil being equal to 12 stone 
Dutch) and six barrels of grease butter. The vicarages or small 
teinds drawn in kind also formed part of the stipend. The vi- 
carage teind butter was weighed in merks oh the Bismer.** 

But when the act of Parliament was passed for augmenting the 
small stipends, in all cases where the parochial teinds were inade- 
quate, it became necessary to place these stipends on the same foot- 
ing with others, and for this purpose, to institute in the respective 
parishes a process of valuation of teinds. The teinds of this pa- 
rish being found deficient for raising the stipend to L.156, 6s. 8d. 
by about L. 60, this sum is accordingly paid from the Exchequer, 
half-yearly, at Whitsunday and Michaelmas. 

The United Associate Seceders have a chapel on the north-east 
corner of the parish, where it borders on the parish of St Andrews. 
The Earl of Zetland is patron of the parish. 
A school in a more centrical situation than the parochial school 
is much required. 

* For a particular account of these ancient weighing instruments, the Pundlor and 
Bismer, sec Dr Barry*s History of the Orkney Islandsi Book ii. ch. v. p. t2ll. 

January 1842. 

PRINTED BV JOHN &TARK, 
OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDINBUBGH. 



INDEX. 



Academies, see Education 
Agriculture and rural economy, 6, 20, 
aO, 40, 59, 68, 76, 82, 84, 96, lOR, 
143, 152, 160, 181, 190. 204, 213, 220, 
Aikcrness, 200 
Antiquities, 18, 29, 53, 68, 80, 123, 134, 

151,159,178,201,213 
Augmund*s Howe, 136 
Backaskail bay, 87 
Baikie, Mr, of Tankerncss, 3 
Balfour, John, Esq. of Trenaby, 1 1 
Bea, loch of, 86 
Bemory caves, 14 
Birds. 17,73 

Birsay and Harray, parishes of, 148— 
civil history of, 150— character of their 
inhabitants, 151 
Birsay, library, 154 — ^palace of, 151 
Black Craig, the, 27 
Blakely's Well, 2 

Bouny, 2, 18, 51, 74, 122, 177, 199, 21 1 
Burness, loch of, 118 
Cairston burn, 47 
Cape Wrath, 13 
Castragoe harbour, 150 
Cathedral, St Magnus*, 3 
Cava, island of, 15 

Churches and Chapels, Established, see 
Ecclesiastical statistics — Dissenting, 
see Dissenters. 
Claistran hall, 19 
Climate and meteorology, 42, 45, 72, 

116, 133. 170, 197,207 
Clumly, loch of, 46 
Coligarth, the ncss of, 140 
Communication, means of, 7, 23, 34, 

76. 180, 226 
Cross and Burness, parishes of, 85— «ivil 
history of^ 89— character of their inha- 
bitants, 95 — miscellaneous observations 
on, 102 
Cross kirk chapel, 125 
Deerness, qttoad aacra parish of, 189 
Decrsound, 172 

Dis<;cnters and Dissenting chapels, 8, 24, 
36, 64, 69. 82, 84, 101, 130, 153, 188, 
190, 194,203,216,227 
Dungsby head, 13 

Ecclesiastical statistics, 8, 24, 35, 41, 63, 
r)9, 76, 82, 84, 101, 112, 130, 153, 155, 
166, 187, 190, 194, 203, 205, 216,226 
Eday, island of, 86 — sound, 157 
Education, sutistics of, 10, 24, 36, 41 , 
64, 09, 77, 82, 84, 101, 113, 131, 148, 
lo3, 155, 166, 188, 190, 195, 203, 
1205 

ORKNEY. 



Elsveick harbour, 79 

Gnhallow, island of, 83 — sound, 157 

Evie and Rendall, parishes of, 196— cba* 
racter of their inhabitants, 203 

Kvigan bay, 157 

Fairs, 12, 66, 154, 156, 189, 216 

Firth and SCienness, parish of, 67— -civil 
history of, 67 

Fisheries, 2, 22, 31, 41, 69, 73, 82» 88» 
100, 110, 129, 153, 162, 186, 190, 194» 
205 214, 994 

Fishes', 17, 74, 88, 121, 163, 176, 187 

Fitty hill, 126 

Flotta, island of, 16— parish of, 77 

Franklin, Sir John, 28 

Frebbay district, 120 

Friendly society, the Kirkwall, 11 

Gairsay island, 197 

Gait-nip, the, 1 

Gallow hill, 126 

Geology and mineralogy, 2, 16, 46, 72, 

119, 150, 158, 173, 191, 198,208 
Gloup cavern, the, 170 
Graeme, Mr, of Graeme's hall, 3 
Graemsay, island of, 27 
Gyran, hill of, 42 
Haly Kirk, 54 
Harray, parish of, 154 — civil history ofy 

155 
Heclabir rock, 87 
Henzie Hunt, carse of, 141 
Hole of Row, the, 42 
Holland's bay, 157 
Holm of Auskerry, the, 157 — Holm 

sound, 16 
Holme and Paplay, parish of, 204 — ad- 
ditional acount of, 218 
Honyman, Sir William, 14 
Hoy and Graemsay, parishes of, 40 
Hoy, hill of, 26— sound, 27 
Houton head, 13— cave, 14 
Husbandry, systems of, 6, 21, 31, 96, 
108, 128, 144, 152, 160, 183, 213, 220 
Ingamess, bay of, 1, 172 
Inns and alehouses, and their effects, 12, 

25. 38, 66, 79, 154, 168, 189, 195 
Johnston's cave, 27 
Kettletoft bay, 86 
Kirk of Howe, the, 125 
Kirkliston, lake of, 16 
Kirkwall, parish of, 1— civil history of, 8 
Lady, parish of, 133— civil history of, 

134— character of its inhabitants, 143 

—kirk, 147— lighthouse, 148 
Laing, Malcolm, the historian, 3 
Laing, Mr, of Papdale, 3 



230 



ORKNEY. 



Land, rent of, 6, 20, 30, 40, 60, 68, 82, 
84, 89, 128, 147, 152, 181, 204, 221 

Libraries and literature, 11, 88, 66, 131, 
154 

Lingafiold, hill of, 42 

Lioga sound, 157 

Lingholm island, 157 

Lobster 6shing, 22, 162 

Loch Skaill, 46 

Longhope harbour, 71 

Blanganese, Iband in Westray, 119 

Manufiustures— kelp,23,82,e9,91. 111, 
186— straw plait, 32, 62, 68» 75, 129, 
152,215 

Markets, see Fairs 

Melsetter mansion.house, 75 

Meteorology, see Climate 

Midbay district, 120 

Midland, hUl of, 17 

Mill bay, 157 

Mineralogy, see Geology 

Miscellaneous obserrations, 25, 39, 66, 
78, 102, 132 

Monk*s house, 29 

Mulhead of Deemess, the, 172 

Myrtis* knowes, 140 

Natural history society, the Orkney, 38 

Newark tower, 138 

Noltland, castle of, 123 

Nooss, bay of, 116 

Noust, the boat*s, 53 

Ola, Saint, I 

Old man of Hoy, the, 49 

Orkney, county of, general observations 
on, 206— civil history, 212 

Orkney library, the, 1 1 

Orphir, parish of, 13— civil history of, 18 
^-character of its inhabitants, 19— mis- 
cellaneous observations on, 25 

Ottcrswick, bay of, 85 

Outo*-town district, 120 

Palace, the Earrs, 4 

Papa sound, 157 

Papa Stronsay, island of, 157 

Papa Westray, island of, 117 

Parochial registers, 5, 18, 29,40, 53, 67, 
75. 80, 84, 89, 123, 150, 155, 178, 
190, 201, 219 

Pcntland Skerries, the, 72 

Peter kirk, 141 

Picrowall, hay of, 116 

Plantations and planting, 177, 211 

Pollexfen, Dr, 52 

Pomona, 26 

Population returns, 5, 19, 29, 40, 58,68, 
75, 78, 81, 84, 93, 127, 151, 155, 180, 
190, 193, 202. 204, 213, 220 

Prison, the Kirkwall and St Ola, 12 

Produce, prices of, 7, 60, 84, 164, 182, 
224 

Quarries, 7,31, 129,214 

Quoyncss buildine, 137 

Rapness, bay of, 116 

Rcndull, hall of, 201 



Reptiles, 17 

Rivers and waters, 1, 2, 16, 46, 85, 118 

Ronaldsha, North, island of, 103 — civil 
history, 104— character of its inhabi- 
tants, 105 

Ronaldshay, South, island of, 16 

Ronaldshay, South, and Burray, parish 
oC191 

Ross, Sir John, 28 

Rousay and £agleshay, parish of, 83 

Saintear, loch o^ 118 

Sandwick, parish of, 41<— ciril history of, 
53— character of its inhabitants, 50— 
miscellaneous observations on, 66 

Sandwick library, the, 66 

Salt-pans cave, 14 

Saville mansion-house, 86 

Scapa bay, 1 

Scar mansion-house, 86 

Shapinshay, parish o^ 79— civil history 
of, 80 

SkaiU or Aith, loch of, 46 

Skibbagoe harbour, 150 

Shipping, 7, 23, 32, 129, 215 

Sncdsetter house, 74 

Snasgar castle, 53 

Societies, 11,36,38 

St Andrews, parish of, 1 69->ciril history, 
177— character of iu inhabitants, 180 

St Magdalen*s chapel, 141 

Stennets, loch of, 46 

Strange, Sir Robert, the engraver, 3 

Straw- plait manu&ctures, 32, 62, 68, 
75, 129, 152, 215 

Stroma, island of, 72 

Stromuess, parish of, 2&— >harbour, 35— 
town of, 34 — library of, 38 — natural 
history society, 38^miscellaneotts ob- 
setvations on, 39 

Stronsay and Edday, parishes of, 156 

Swana, loch of, 198 

Swartmill, loch of, 1 18 

Swona, ishmd of, 72 

Tookquoy, bay of, 115— loch of, 1 18 

Traill, Professor, in Edmburgh, 3 

Vestrafiold, hill of, 42 

Wages, rate of, 5, 30, 60, 76, 100, 182, 
224 

Walls and Flotta, parishes of, 70— ciril 
history of, 74 — miscellaneous observa- 
tions on, 78— island of, 16 

Wart hill, 13 

Westray, parish of, 114— Frith of, lie- 
civil history of, 122— library of, 131— 
— miscellaneous observations on, 132 

Wideford, hill of, 1 

WhitemiU point, 85 

Woodwick, bay of, 197 

Yeskcnaby, town of, 53 

Yonbell, hiU of, 42 

Zetland, the Earl of, 10 

Zoology, 51, 73, 88, 104, 121, 175, 199, 
210 



PRIKTin BY JOHK STARK, OLD A&SmM.VLY C\A%«, V^IKBUEGH. 



SHETLAND 



CONTENTS 



BRESSAY, BURRA, AND QUARFF, PACK 7 

DELTING, . . . . 5(j 

DUNROS8NESS, . . . .93 

FBTLAR AND NORTH YELL, 23 

LERWICK, . . . .1 

NESTING, .... .53 

NORTIIMAYING, . . .70 

SANDSTING AND AITHSTING, . . 97 

TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND WRKSDALE, . 59 

UNST, .... 36 

WALLS, . . . . .19 

YELL, MID AND SOI'TU, ... 82 



,»»- 



i 



PARISH OF LERWICK. 

. PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. THOMAS BARCLAY, MINISTER.^ 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Extent and Boundaries. — This parish extends, from north to 

south, about 6 miles along the sea coast, and is nowhere above a 

mile in breadth. On the east and north-east, it is bounded by 

the sea, which separates it from the island and parish of Brassa, 

and forms that excellent harbour commonly called Brassa Sound. 

The parish, and country around it, are rocky and mountainous. 
The soil, on the mountains, is generally peat or moss, and is deep 
to their very summit. The arable land lies in spots along the sea 
coast; the soil is light and sandy, but as fertile and productive as 
can well be supposed from the situation and climate. The high- 
est hill in the parish rises little more than 300 feet above the level 
of the sea. The air, though moist, is far from being unhealthy. 

Harbours. — The only harbour in this parish is that of Lerwick, 
or Bressay Sound, a capacious bay, in which vesseb, well found, 
may ride at all seasons in perfect safety ; and what renders this 
harbour particularly commodious, is, its having two entries, one 
from the south, and another from the north. On the outside of 
the north entry, lies a sunk rock, called the Unicorn. 

Geologym — The predominating rocks in this parish are sandstone 
and conglomerate, both of which belong to the old red sandstone 
of geologists. 

II. — Civil Histouy. 
Parochial Registers. — There are three volumes of parochial re- 
gisters in the possession of the session-clerk. The first begins in 
the year 1704, and ends in 1750. The births and marriages are 
both recorded in this book ; but, owing to the originally imper- 
fect binding of the volume, it is now almost in fragments, and the 
births for several vears at the commencement have been either not re- 
corded, or more probably the record has been lost The second volume 

* From notes furnished by H. Cheyne, Esq. of Tangwicki W. S« 
SHETLAND. A 



2 SHETLAND. 

commences in the year 1751, and seems to have terminated in the 
year 1777; but the latter year has been torn away. It appears 
to have been kept in a very regular and accurate manner, and is 
in very good preservation. Births, marriages^ and deaths are all 
recorded. The third^volume commences in the year 1778, and is 
that still in use, being only about half exhausted. It contains a re- 
gister of births and marriages — the latter probably complete, but 
the former, from its being optional mth Dissenters to register, has 
probably been much neglected. The people of all sects are now, 
however, it is believed, alive to the importance of registration. 
This volume contains no register of deaths till the year 1817; 
and from the want of some imperative regulation for ascertaining 
and communicating the facts, they have necessarily been entered 
in a very irregular manner. The session-clerk, apart from his 
own observation, is almost entirely indebted to the sexton for his 
information respecting these. 

Land-owners. — The land-owners of the parish are. Sir Arthur 
Nicolson, Bart.; William Hay of LaxBrth ; James Greig of Sand- 
sound; Earl of Zetland; Charles Ogiivy of Seafield; Francis 
Heddle of Helerness, and others. Sir Arthur Nicolson is the prin- 
cipal land-owner. This enumeration does not embrace the town 
of Lerwick, which contains many considerable owners of house and 
park property, besides those above-mentioned. 

The valued rent of Zetland is L.28,275, 14s. 6^d. Scots ; but no 
apportionment of it upon the lands was ever made, — owing to which 
the Zetland landholders, until the late extension of the franchise, 
were excluded from qualifying as freeholders. All public assessments 
are levied, and divisions made, according to the number of merk lands 
in the parish. All arable lands were anciently, under the Norwe- 
gian law, rated as merks, — a merk containing eight ures. These 
merks are quite indefinite as to extent. It is, indeed, clear that 
the ancient denomination of merk land had not reference to super- 
ficial extent of surface, but was a denomination of value alone, in 
which was included the proportion of the surrounding commonty 
or scattold. Merks land are of different values, as sixpenny, 
ninepenny, twelvepenny — a twelvepenny merk having formerly 
at least been considered equal to two sixpenny merks; and in 
some old deeds, lands are described as 30 merks sixpenny, 
otherwise 15 merks twelvepenny land. All assessments have, 
however, for a very long period, been levied, and all privileges ap- 
portioned, according to merks, without relation to whether they 
were sixpenny or twelvepenny. The ancient rentals of Zetland 



LKRWICK. 3 

contain about 14,000 merks land; and it will be noticed, that, 
however much the ancient enclosed land be increased by addition- 
al improvements, the number of merks ought to be and are station- 
ary. The valued rent, divided according to the merks land, would 
make a merk land in Zetland equal to L.2 Scots of valued rent. 
The parish contains 253 merks land. Lerwick is built on tho 
commonty or scattold of Sound. The real rent of the country pa- 
rish is believed to exceed L. 500. The real rent of the town is 
about L.d700. 

Mansion^Houses, — Excluding the town of Lerwick, the only 
house in the parish that can be properly termed a mansion-house 
is that of Gremista, the occasional residence of Sir Arthur Nicol- 
son. There are, however, several houses in the neighbourhood 
of Lerwick, the summer residences of gentlemen residing in the 
town, which have been built within these few years, and have 
greatly improved the appearance of the neighbourhood. 

Antiquities. — The only antiquities worth noticing are the re- 
mains of a Pictish burgh or castle, on a small island in a lake 
close to Lerwick. It is fast hastening to decay. There are, or 
at least were lately, the remains of several chapels at Gulberwick. 

in. — Population. 

The population of the towa of Lerwick, in 1837, was • 3068 

of places immediately adjacent, . 52 

of the country part of the parish, in 1831, 444 

The number of illegitimate births within the last three years 
in this parish, was 5. 

IV. — Industry. 

The real rent of the parish is L. 4200. 

The only improvements that have been made within the last 
fifty years are in the neighbourhood of Lerwick. That town was 
originally built on the commonty of Sound, and was surrounded 
by deep moss. The increase of the inhabitants has gradually caused 
the cutting up and consumption of this moss for fuel, until the 
immediate neighbourhood has mostly come to consist of extremely 
bare, stony, or rather rocky ground. Within the last twenty years, a 
common, surrounding the town, of about 40 acres, has been en- 
closed and divided into 31 parks, which are now mostly cultivated 
and laid down to grass. They yield a rental of about L. 80, from 
which tho minister's stipend, falling on the town, and other ex-> 
penses, are in part defrayed. Several gentlemen have also, at 
much expense, brought under cultivation ground in the neigh« 
bourhood of the town. And the summer residences of Mr Hay, 



4 SHETLAND. 

Mr Ogiivy, Mr Greig, and Mr L. Duncan, display, on a limited 
scale, such as the locality admits of, considerable taste and spirit of im- 
provement. Mr Ogilvy's residence at Sound is laid out with 
equal taste and convenience ; and the sheltered situation of Mr 
Duncan's is evinced by a small but flourishing little plantation 
before his house. 

Manufactures. — Properly speaking, there is now hardly any manu- 
facture carried on in the parish. The women in this, as in other pa- 
rishes, are a good deal employed in knitting stockings, mitts, and other 
articles of hosiery. There was formerly a straw-plait manufactory ; 
but, for several years, it has been dropped. There is an attempt 
at present making by Messrs Hay and Ogiivy, to establish a her- 
ring-net manufactory ; and there can be no doubt of the propriety 
' of thus securing employment on the spot in the manufacture of 
an article, the weaving of which is so simple, and so easily ac« 
quired, and which is now much used in the district The popu- 
lation of Zetland are generally too much averse to turn their spare 
time to account They flsh during the season. They necessarily 
apply to their small labourings and harvests ; and they cut their 
peats at the proper seasons ; but when not so engaged, many of 
them are apt to be idle, or at least to employ themselves in a 
listless manner. It is said that the want of leases accounts for 
this; but those who know the district are aware that there are 
many who have no such excuse ; and that there are few who 
could not obtain leases, if they wished. 

Qiinrry. — In Lerwick, there is a freestone quarry wrought ; 
and several vessels, some of them of 200 and 300 tons burden^ 
have been built by Messrs Hay and Ogiivy. 

Fishings. — The fishing most constantly followed in Zetland 
is that of ling, which is carried on from the middle of May to the 
beginning or middle of August. It is, however, only followed by 
a very few boats from this parish. There are a number of small 
sloops that pursue the cod fishing, during summer ; but it is sub- 
ject to great vicissitude ; the fish appearing for a series of years 
to leave the banks, on which, for another series of years^ they are 
again found. The herring fishing has, of late years, been carried on 
with considerable spirit, in the manner practised on the Scotch 
coast, and in larger boats than were formerly used in Zetland. 
In 1834, the take in Zetland exceeded 50,000 barrels ; but 
since then, it has gradually declinodb In 1839, 174 boats, mostly 
belonging to this parish, delivered herrings in or near Lerwick^ 



LERWICK. O 

but the whole take from these was only 4872 barrels, and the lier- 
ring-fishing last year was a total failure. The losses sustained by 
both curers and fishermen were consequently very severe, arid have 
much damped the energies, and contracted the means of both. It 
may be doubted if the Zetland fishermen yet understand the habits 
of the herring, or the best way of looking out for them ; and it is 
matter of wonder, that greater exertions to procure some of the 
experienced fishermen from Scotland, to follow the herring fish- 
ing in Zetland, have not been made. Notwithstanding of the 
late failures, yet, as a large capital is invested in boats, nets, and 
materials, the fishing will, doubtless, be again attempted another 
year. 

Navigation. — The number of vessels belonging to Lerwick is 
85. The amount of their tonnage, 3132.* 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Ecclesiastical State. — From an account now taken, the number 

of families belonging to the Established Church in the town it 

458; in the landward district (in 1831) 80 families. And from 

an account now taken, the number of Dissenting or Seceding fa? 

milies, is 187. 

About 40 families in the town may be said to attend no place 
of worship, being generally the most wretched, and standing most 
in need of Christian instruction. The usual excuse for non-atten* 
dance, is want of proper clothing, &c 

The stipend amounts to L. 150, and L.8, 5s. 9d. is allowed for 
communion elements. The stipend is made up thus: From the 
bishopric rents of Orkney, L.27, 15s. 6d. ; from town of Lerwick, 
L. 16, 13s. 4d. ; from lands of landward district, L.23, Os. 8^d. ; 
from Exchequer under small stipend Act, L..90, IGs. 3d.; total, 
L. 158, 5s. 9id. 

There is neither manse nor glebe in the parish. The com- 
pensation paid by the heritors is L.50 per annum. 

Education. — There are four schools conducted by male and 
by female teachers in the parish ; and one additional for boys, 
and one for girls of the middle class of society, are required. Per- 
haps, a well conducted model-school, accessible to all teachers in 
Zetland, and the children of the parish, would be a very great ad- 
vantage. It is luckily now beginning to be perceived, that teacli- 
ing is a profession requiring previous training; and, in the schools 

* Lerwick being the seat of the Custom-house, all vessels belonging to Zetland 
arc registered there. 



6 SHETLAND. 

in Zetland, though conducted by estimable, zealous and right- 
minded men, the mere attainment of reading and writing, combined 
with the almost mechanical reading of the Scriptures, form the 
staple of the education ; and but too little attention is paid to the 
moral and intellectual part of education. The Sunday schools, 
wherever established, have been productive of very great and pal- 
pable good effects. 

The yearly amount of the parochial teacher's salary is L. 34, 
48. 8Jd ; his fees amount to about L.30 per annum. 

Savings Banks. — There is one of these banks established in the 
parish. But the succession of bad crops and fishings has almost 
entirely stopped the deposits, for some time. 

In 1838 the sums withdrawn amounted to L.45 ; in 1839 to 
L.16, 8s. ; and in 1840 to L.13, 9s. 

Poor and Poor*s Funds. — The number of persons receiving pa- 
rochial aid is 105. The average sum allotted to each is Is. 8d. 
per month. The average annual amount of contributions for their 
relief, is L. 116. This sum is taken from the receipts for the 
year commencing 1st December 1839, and ending 1st December 
1840, and may be deemed a fair average; the collection not 
having much varied, for several years. Of the above amount there 
was derived from church collections, L. 74, Os. 2^d. ; allowed by 
heritors to make up deficiency, L.22 ; from two donations, L. 6f 
5s.; mortcloth hire, L.2, 12s. 6d. ; collection at sermons by mi- 
nister of parish on St John's day, at request of masons of Morton 
Lodge, L.12, Is.; total, L.116, 18s. d^d. 

May 1841. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

BRESSAY, BURRA, AND QUARFF.* 

PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. ZACH. M. HAMILTON, Minister of Bressay. 
THE REV. JAMES GARDNER, Minister of Quarff. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Situation, Boundaries, §•(?. — These parishes comprehend six 

islands, with a part of the mainland of Shetland. One parish lies 

on the east of the mainland, consisting of the islands of Bressay 

and Noss, divided from each other by Noss Sound, and from 

Lerwick by Bressay Sound. 

Bressay is nearly six English miles in length; its breadth varying 
from two to three, or, at some points, rather more. Its aspect on 
the west is somewhat diversified by indentations of the coast, the 
height of its hills, the cultivated land sloping toward the sea, and 
by the houses, cottages, and hamlets interspersed from south to 
north. Tracks of hilly ground run through it in irregular direc- 
tions, between which that sort of variety occurs, which is formed 
by the intermixture of pasture and peat moss. 

Noss is two miles long, and a mile or more in breadth, having 
an acclivity from west to east. The greater part of it is pasture 
ground ; but in the lower part, tl^ere is enough of cultivation to 
form a comparatively large and good farm. 

Topographical Appearances. — The most prominent object in 
Bressa is the Ward or Beacon Hill near the south extremity, 
which rises 724 feet above the level of the sea, somewhat coni- 
cally shaped ; and, being covered with heath, stunted grass, and 
peat-moss, it has a very sombre aspect. St Andrew's or Ander 
Hill, on the east side of the island, is a hilly ridge, 400 feet or 
more in height. 

Some caverns occur along the coast, one of which, on the south 
part, is the most remarkable, and has never been thoroughly ex* 

* Drawn up by the Rev. George Marshall, minister of Flisky fonneWy minister 
of Bressay. 



8 SHETLAND. 

plored, although a boat may penetrate into it for a considerable 
way. On this quarter of the island, there are various perfora- 
tions in the rocks forming natural arches, by means of a column 
from each projecting into the sea, below which boats pass in fa- 
vourable weather. One of these is known by the name of the 
Giant's Leg. 

Both in Bressay and Noss, the coast is rocky, sometimes very 
high ; while at some intervals, a small extent of sloping beach oc- 
curs, of a sandy but oftener a calcareous description. 

The principal headlands on the south, are the Ord, the Bard, and 
Hammer. The Ord is a reclining rock above 500 feet high, and 
inhabited by Eagles. The Bard and Hammer are bold promon- 
tories, which, with the whole coast to the south-east, and Hova^ 
the south headland of Noss opposite, are about 200 feet high* 

Noss is distinguished principally by its eastern headland, called 
the Noop, or by mariners, Hangcliff, the height of which is said 
to be about 60Q feet. 

Around, the coast of both islands, there are sonie holms or unin* 
habited islets, the most remarkable of which is the Holm of Noss, 
a perpendicular rock, 200 feet in height, separated from Noss by 
a very narrow channel, having a space on the top suflScient for the 
pasture of a dozen of sheep, for two or three months. The me- 
thod of communication between the island and this holm, by means 
of a cradle suspended on ropes, is detailed in the former Statis- 
tical Account. 

Quarff, a part of the mainland, forms the middle parish, lying 
six miles south-west from Bressa, and situated between the pa- 
rishes of Lerwick and Tingwall on the north, and that of Dun- 
rossness on the south. The, inhabited part is mostly a valley 
between high hills ; extending about two miles between the east 
and west sea, and about half a mile broad, but having uncultivated 
or pasture ground belonging to it, extending a mile on the north 
and south. The winding valley, cottages at convenient distances 
near the foot of the hill on both sides, having a meadow between 
them, and a pleasant bay on the east and west, — exhibit a pictu- 
resque and simple scenery. 

The Cliff and Coningsburgh hills terminate in a ridge on the 
south part of the valley, as do the hills of Tingwall and Lerwick 
on the north. The height of Scraefield, the highest point on the 
north, may be above 500 feet. 

West from Quarff is the parish of Burra, which comprehends 



BRESSAY. 9 

the Isles of House and Burra, and the small Isles of Hevera and 
Papa. 

House (or the East Isle of Burra) lies about half a mile from 
Quarff; and Burra, or the West Isle, the same distance from 
House. In their appearance, there is nothing very remarkable ; 
but they are mostly two hill ridges, irregular in shape, the one 
about six, and the East Isle about five miles in length, and from 
half a mile to a mile in breadth. The south part of the Isle of 
House is a peninsula, a mile in length, the greatest part of it 
consisting of pasture ground. The coast of both is rocky, espe- 
cially on the south, and particularly that of Burra, on the west. 
At one point the two islands approach so near to each other, as to 
be joined by a bridge composed of some loose timbers resting on 
two rude piles of stones. * The Isle of Papa, a mile north from 
Burra, is a sifiall spot inhabited by two families. 

Hevera, two miles south from Burra, has the appearance of a 
high rock, having only one proper access by a romantic sort of 
creek, inter scopulos pendentes. It accommodates five families, 
whose houses are frightfully situated on the brink of the preci- 
pice. An islet is attached on the south to this, called Little He- 
vera. 

Noss Sound is not a quarter of a mile broad, about twenty 
feet deep, having a strong tide, and is often impassable with east- 
erly winds, f 

Bressay Sound is well known as a harbour. In the middle, op* 
posite Lerwick, it is hardly a mile broad, and perhaps fifteen fa- 
thoms deep, the tide falling in it about eight feet; narrowing 
very much to the north entrance; but its breadth and depth in- 
creasing towards Quarff, on the south, where it opens into the 
ocean. 

Cliff Sound, nearly half a mile broad, is, like Bressay, a 
difficult sound in stormy weather, owing to its situation between 
high grounds on both sides. It is said to be eight or ten fathoms 
deep. 

Stream Sound is the junction between the Cliff and Burra 
Sound, said to be six fathoms deep, running east and west be- 
tween the north point of House, and south of Trondra; its 
breadth, about a quarter of a mile, between these points ; its cur- 
rent as visible as that of a river. 

* since this account was written, some improvements have beeli here made. 

-|- rhe statements here given of the depth of these arms of the sea, are given from 
the Oi>inions of (isiiermen in the neighbourhood, and cannot, therefore, be warranted 
as correct. An accurate survey has since been made by Captain Thomas. 



10 SHETLAND. 

The West) or Burra Sound, is somewhat broader and deeper, 
extending the length of Burra ; and, being narrowed by the ap- 
proach of the opposite points at the bridge, toward the south, it 
affords a space for more tranquil boat-navigation, than any other 
in the parish. 

Various springs in the different districts have a slight mineral 
iioge, perhaps from, the bog-iron that frequently occurs. 

Bressay has a dozen of small lochs, two or three of them only 
being half a mile in length or breadth, but some containing ex- 
cellent trout, seldom disturbed by the angler. Burra and Quarff 
have each two small lochs. 

Geology. — Bressay and Noss belong to the old red sandstone 
formation: Quarff to the clay-slate and mica-slate formations; the 
Isles of House, Burra, and Hevera are of primitive formation ; and 
Papa of epidotic syenite. 

Quarries of coarse slate, of a grey, heavy kind, have been for 
a long time wrought in Bressay, the layers being from four to 
ten feet deep, mostly imbedded between rocks of sandstone. 
Some inferior kinds of limestone are found in Quarff and in 
Burra. 

Zoology. — The headland of the Ord of Bressay affords a domi- 
cile to a few eagles. The Noop of Noss, in summer, exhibits a 
curious spectacle, being covered with birds of passage and others, 
which occupy the narrow shelving of the rock. Tlie noise of these 
creatures is occasionally like that of the most deafening waterfall. 

Whales are sometimes seen in the Sounds. One above forty 
feet long was lately brought ashore near the manse, said ?o be 
the species Balcena hoops. 

Although there are few. trees here in the present day, yet there 
roust have been a time when they did exist in it, as many of the 
ipsa corpora are found in the mosses here, as in other places of 
the country. It can hardly be said that any experiments in plant- 
ing made in this country have been made with such energy, that 
their failure should be held decisive. Several spots near the man- 
sion-house were, some years ago, planted with willows and ash. 
The plants of ash are not in the same state of progress as the willows. 
Some plane trees thrive tolerably. In the ground adjoining to 
the mansion-house, there are various plants of aspen, poplar, la- 
burnum, elm, and plane-tree thriving well. The climate does not 
appear to favour evergreens. 

Culinary vegetables thrive well; and gooseberry and curran 



BRES8AY. 11 

bushes produce tolerably, but require the shelter of a wall. There 
have been often at the Mansion-house tolerable crops of strawber- 
ries. There is not, so far as I have heard, any instance of a hot- 
house in this country, except here ; and in it the vines produce 
an exuberant crop of large grapes. 

II. — Civil History. 
. In the year 1636, the Rev. William Umphray, who had been 
at that time fifty-five years minister of this charge, executed two 
deeds of mortification, by which he left eight merks of land to 
Burra and Quarff, and four to Bressay, for maintaining a reader, 
and other pious uses, together with the interest of L.20 Sterling 
to the one, and of L. 150 Scots to the other. The communion 
cups seem to have been his gift, as they bear his name, with the 
date 162a« 

An event of great importance ta the minister and people 
lately took place, in the erection of a Government church in 
Quarff. Before this erection, the charge of these parishes was 
one of the most difficult kind, the Bressa and Burra churches be- 
ing about twelve miles distant from each other ; and it be- 
hoved the minister to go in a very small boat to Quarff, then to 
walk two miles, and lastly, to embark with his Quarff parishioners 
for the kirk of Burra, situated at five miles distance. His Sab* 
bath days' journies thus occupied eight hours, before his return 
home. The arrangement of places so distant under one charge, 
rendered it impossible for one man to go through the duties of a 
minister in them, with any regularity or satisfaction. 

Its first minister, Mr James Gardner, was inducted September 
1830. The district at present allotted to him consists of Quarff, 
with the adjacent islands in Burra parish ; and he has the duty 
of preaching in the Burra church, as circumstances may permit 
But as there are contiguous parts of Coningsburgh, Gulberwick, 
and Tingwall, for whose inhabitants it is vastly easier to attend at 
Quarff than at their own parish churches, the Presbytery have it in 
contemplation to annex, quoad sacra^ these contiguous places to 
the charge of Quarff. It is much to be wished, for the sake of 
order, and the comfort of all concerned, that the whole were con- 
stituted a separate parish. The ground required for the church 
and manse, was generously given by the late Charles Ogilvy, Esq. 
of Seafield, and the disposition executed by his son, John Ogilvy^ 
Esq. 

* Tb« BresMV bell deoUret, in Latin, that it was cast, in 172S, at Hamburgh, for 
tb« use of this kirk. 



12 SHETLAND. 

Land-owners. — The land-owners are, in Bressa and Noss, Wil- 
liam Mouat, Esq. In Quarff, the Right Honourable Lord Dun- 
das ; John Ogilvy, Esq. ; Mr Andrew Irvine ; and Mr Thomas 
Henry. In Burra, John Scott, Esq. of Scalloway. In Hevera, 
Robert Bruce, Esq. of Symbister. 

For time immemorial, separate sessions have been held at the 
kirks of Bressay and Burra ; and it is probable that a volume or 
volumes of minutes and registers have been lost, at both places. 
The first extant are in the worst condition, and much mutilated ; 
the earliest date 1737. They are now better kept; and it is found 
expedient to have a separate book and register at Quarff. 

In Noss, a small burying-ground is used, lying round the frag- 
ments of what appears to have been a Popish chapel. 

There are three burying-grounds in Bressay. The most an- 
cient appears to have been at Gunista, on the north part of it. 
There is here a small fragment of a church, which seems to have 
had vaults below it, or, according to tradition, a prison attached to 
it. On the site of this church, a spacious tomb of hewn stone, and 
neat workmanship, was built by some former proprietor, the walls 
of which remain. 

The ruins of a church appear also at Culbinsgarth, on the north- 
east, where there is another burying-ground ; and from this place 
Mr Umphray's deeds of mortification are dated. How long be- 
fore this the manse and kirk had subsisted, does not appear; but 
they were both removed to the present site, on the west, in 1722; 
and since that time, the church has been renewed once, ai]|} the 
manse twice. 

Several traces of Pictish buildings occur, mostly in the form of 
subterranean cells ; and both in Bressay and Burra, are some of 
these objects called standing^stones. 

Of late years, some tumuli were discovered, containing square 
stones, within which were bones, exhibiting marks of combustion. 
Other conically shaped knolls, that have every appearance of 
being tumuli, have never yet been opened. 

The churches in Bressay and Burra are small and incommodious. 
The Government Church in Quarfi* is a commodious and beautiful 
building. 

III. — Population. 

In 1801, the population wai 1390 
1811, 1411 

1821, 1585 

1831, 1699 



BRKSSAY. 13 

One family only of independent fortune resides in the parish, — 
and this in Bressay, only during summer. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture, — Measurement by acres is here unknown, and that 
by mark land, which has been used for time immemorial, is, and 
has been, for many years, ill deGned and arbitrary. Originally, 
a mark of land must have been a definite measure, and pro- 
bably a measure only of cultivated land. But as every small 
farm has a portion of pasture or uncultivated ground belonging 
to it, an industrious tenant does what he can to add to the cul- 
tivated space as much as be can spare from the pasture. In 
some places, a mark signifies a space equal to an acre, and in 
others only to half an acre. 

Certainly it would be far better, in order to prevent erroneous 
calculations and disappointments, that farms in this country were 
measured precisely by acres as in the south. 

In this and most parishes here, the cultivated land is often not 
a third, or a fourth, or not nearly so much of the waste land or 
undivided common. The rental land, or that which has been in 
cultivation from olden times, consists in 

Bressay and Noss, of 342 mnrks. 
Biirra, • 252 

Hevera, 18 

Quarif, . 93 

HenL — The average rent of land in the three districts is L. I 
per mark, with public burdens. But perhaps the outsets, or small 
farms occasionally let from the common, may make the cultivated 
space amount to a third more than what has been stated. The 
rental land connected with any hamlet or township, as it is called, 
lies in run- rig among the tenants. The outsets lying by them- 
selves and unfettered by the system of run-rig, and being some- 
times enclosed, possess by these means greater facilities for im- 
provement than the other. 

Husbandry, — The mode of cropping, from time immemorial, has 
been by oats and bear alternately on the infield, with potatoes 
once in four or five years. The manure employed is a compost 
of moss earth, dung, and sea-weed ; the earth being taken from 
the common during summer, and mixed with the dung as it accu- 
mulates, and with the sea-weed as it casts up. The offals of her- 
ring are also considered an excellent manure. 

A good many years ago, the proprietor of Bressay brought a 
grieve from Berwickshire to manage the farm annexed to the 



14 SHETLAND. 

maDsioD-house, who afterwards took the lease of a small farm 
and managed it by the same mode of agriculture to which he had 
been accustomed in the south ; it was found that it seldom failed 
to produce an average crop of grain, turnip, rye-grass, or clover, 
compared with any hill district in Scotland. One or two tenants 
possessing advantages above the rest, availed themselves of the 
example thus set. But as to the generality, their poverty, and 
the want of leases, enclosures and roads, together with the sys- 
tem of run-rig, effectually bar all attempts at improvement. 
Other obstacles, however, arise from their engagements in fishing, 
and from the circumstance that the young men of almost every fa- 
mily, in the months of February and March, run eagerly to Ler- 
wick to engage in the Greenland and Strait's fisheries, and, of 
late years, to the cod-fishing; so that, both in spring and harvest, 
a great part of agricultural labour devolves on the females. But 
even many of the men who remain at home, think nothing of de- 
serting their farms for a whole day, now and then, for the sake 
of any traffic with ships in the harbour. Of course, from these 
circumstances alone, much agricultural improvement is not to be 
expected. 

Two or three leases only exist here, the duration of which is 
from nineteen to twenty-five years. 

Many of the farm cottages have of late years been rebuilt on an 
improved plan, and emulation has been excited on this matter. 

It should be mentioned, that the best cultivated farms may 
produce 5 or 6 bolls of oats, and 8 bolls of bear to the pro- 
portion of an acre, or 200 ankers of potatoes. It is seldom that 
meal is sold ; but when this happens, it is sold by the lispupd, a 
foreign measure at present very variously defined. The average 
price of oatmeal in Bressay is 4s., and of bear meal 3s., reckoning 
to the lispund 36 lbs. of 16 ounces. Potatoes are sold at 8d. 
per anker. 

Rate (fJVageSy Sfc, — Labourers' wages from lOd. to Is. 6d. ; ma- 
sons, from Is. 4d. to 3s.; carpenters, 3s. ; journeymen, 2s. ; quar- 
rying and building dry stone dikes per fathom, 2s. 6d. ; wages of 
a housemaid per annum, L.2 ; of a farm female servant, L. 1. Sum- 
mer's grazing of a cow, from 7s. to lOs. ; of an ox, 15s to L.l ; 
winter's fodder, from 5s. to 7s. — Price of a full-grown wedder, 7s. ; 
of an ewe, 5s. The averac:e weiorht of a cow for slauorhter is 
about two cwt., of an ox about six years old, about three cwt 
The sheep are, in general, left to run at large on the common. 



BRESSAY. 15 

The weight of one fleece may be from one to two or three 
pounds. 

Qiiarries, — Stone quarries for the purpose of building may be 
here found almost in any place. Slate and fliig is shipped from 
the quarries in Bressay, for the different parts of this country, and 
on some occasions is carried to the southern coasts. In these 
quarries, a dozen of men and boys are employed, at wages of lOd. 
or Is. a day. 

Fisheries, — The ling-fishing is called the haaf or far-fishing. 
Bressay sends to it thirteen or more boats, 18 or 20 feet in keel; 
Quarff, four ditto ; Burra, ten, of 15 feet keel. Of the largest of 
these, each boat carries fifty bughts or lines, each bught being 
fifty fathoms in length. The expense of outfit of one of these 
boats, may be from L.20 to L.26. In each, there are commonly 
six sharers ; but if a man is needed to complete the crew, he 
may be hired sometimes for L.1, 10s., or a sum between that and 
L.d. A haaf boat may be hired for the season for L.2, 8s. 

On this fishing, the Bressay and Quarff people have to proceed 
far to the eastward, sometimes till they lose sight of land. The 
Quarff people have to leave their homes during the week, and to 
lodge at Noss as a fishing station, where others also, from differ- 
ent parishes, are collected, and have a few shillings to pay for the 
use of the huts in which they are accommodated; those from 
Bressay set off from their own homes. Both of these, and also all 
who fish to the eastward, must be at open sea at least for one, some- 
times for two nights. The Burra people do not need to go farther 
out to sea than one mile, their lines being set in the evening, and 
drawn ontheir return in the morning. 

From their employers they receive at present 6s. 6d. for the 
cwt. of wet ling, and 4s. 6d. for the tusk and cod, which they bring 
from this fishing. The accounts I have received of the fishermen's 
profits differ somewhat A gentleman, whose knowledge ought 
to be accurate, stated to me from his books, that the average pro- 
fit of each man for the season was from L. 4 to L. 5. The ave- 
rage amount of the Bressay ling-fishing may be about seventy cwt. 
in a season to each boat. Of the Quarf fishing, fifty cwt. Of 
the Burra fishing, eighteen cwt. 

The cod-fishing to the west and south-west of this country em- 
ploys many hands, and begins about Whitsunday ; being carried 
on by small sloops of between fifteen and twenty tons. From the 
whole of this parish, six or more sloops of this kind are sent to it. 



1G SHETLAND. 

and last year, there were about seventy of the pari;$hioners who en- 
gaged in it. Eight or ten men commonly are partners in a sloop ; 
but sometimes boys are hired to make up their complement, whose 
wages may be L. 2, and Is. 6d. per ton offish. These sloops 
may get in a season from four to ten tons. 

The herring-fishery commences at the conclusion of the former, 
in the month of August. The same persons mostly engage in 
this as the two former, and the boats used for the ling fishing are 
employed by them, along with some of a larger size, by others who 
have prepared them for the purpose. The ordinary kind of boats 
must be provided with nets, the expense of which is about L.22. 
Some, however, make their outlay only L. 6 or L. 7. They need 
only to go on this fishing, two or four miles from land. Last year, 
the Bressay boats alone got 1528crans, the average being seventy 
six to each boat The Quarff boats got 390 crans. The Burra 
men had not yet eng^ed in this fishing. 

The curing of herring in Bressay employs about thirty women 
and children in the season. 

The manufacture of kelp in Bressay employs twenty or thirty 
boys and girls, who receive 9s. or more in the month, and have to 
work at least three hours every tide, by day or night. An over- 
«eer is employed, who receives at the rate of L. 2 per ton for his 
own wages and payment of the workers. 

The manufacture of Shetland hosiery is carried on by the in- 
dustrious, although it has not so much encouragement as in the 
days of Provost Coulter. 

The manufacture of herring-nets now engages attention, and pro- 
mises to be a useful employment. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The Bressay church is situated convenient- 
ly, and so is the Government church in Quarff. Not so the Bur- 
ra church. Situated near the south extremity of the West Isle, it 
caused intolerable hardships to the minister and half of the pa- 
rishioners ; and still gives needless travel to the Government minis* 
ter in Quarff. Bressay church was built in 1815 ; is in good repair ; 
accommodates 370 ; has no free sittings. The Government church 
in Quarff was finished in 1829; is a beautiful and commodious 
buiidintr built to contain 320; has 106 free sittings. Burra church 
was built about twenty-six years ago; accommodates 210; has no 
free sittings ; and is seldom in any tolerable state of repair. 

The manse at Bressay was rebuilt in 1819. The glebe was ex- 
changed twelve years ago, for one to which it was thought equal in 



BRESSAY. 17 

value ; it is said to contain twelve marks of land, and, according to 
present rents here, would let for L. 12. The stipend is L.150, 
of which L.!!?, 17s. lOd. arise from the parish. 

There are two places called meeting-houses in Burra that may* 
perhaps, each contain 100; one of Independents, and the others 
Wesleyans. I am told that twenty or thirty only are in commu« 
nion with either. Many of them, when their hours of meeting differ ^ 
attend the parish church. Two or three individuals only at parti- 
cular times have appeared as Dissenters in Quarff or Bressay. 

The three parish churches in summer are well attended. Cer- 
tainly those of Bressay and Burra are not too large for the popula* 
tion. The situation of young persons here, all along, has been quite 
deplorable. Till lately, they had no opportunity of anything de* 
serving the name of education ; and even, though there had been 
anxiety shown to bring them to church, there was not, and there 
is not, room for the tenth part of them either in Bressay or Burra 
churches. The average number of communicants in Bressay is 
290. When there was only one church for the west district, there 
might be there 150. But, since the erection of the Government 
church, arrangements not having been completed between Quarff 
and Burra, and the contiguous parts, the number of communicants 
cannot be accurately specified. 

Education. — There are three regular, and commonly four small 
private, schools in these parishes. 

The parish school is in Bressay. The salary is L. 25, Ids. ; 
amount of fees, L. 1, 6s. ; quarter payments for reading, lOd. ; 
writing, 28. ; arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; a set of book-keeping, ds. At 
last examination, there were 25 scholars present 

The Assembly schoolmaster in Bressay has L. 20 of salary ; 
amount of fees at present L.9. A school is supported by the 
Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, in Burra. The 
salary L.15; amount of school-fees, L.I. Rate of quarter pay- 
ments, for reading, lOd.; writing. Is. 4d.; arithmetic, 2s. 6d. 
Number of scholars at present, 26. 

For more than twenty years, there have been two schools in 
Bressa, and one in Burra, taught by women, having each 1 5 or more 
scholars. That in Burra, and one of those in Bressay, are extreme- 
ly useful for the younger children. 

Sabbath schools are kept by the Assembly and Society teachers, 
and one in Quarff, by a catechist of the Edinburgh Society 

SHETLAXD. B 



18 SHETLAND. 

for PromotiDg Religious Knowledge among the Poor. One ia 
Bressay is kept by an elder. 

Almost all who can get to school between eight and fifteen 
years of age^ are now beginning to read, and a greater proportion 
than before to write. Upwards of fifteen years of age there are 
at least twenty who, confessedly, cannot read. I believe that not 
more than twenty or thirty are capable of the smallest epistolary 
correspondence. The institution of the Assembly school has 
excited a desire for education in Bressay beyond what existed be- 
ibre, and the people appear sensible of the great advantage of 
having a teacher so well qualified as the present. The district of 
Quarff remains wholly destitute of a teacher, and there a school 
is loudly called for. 

Friendly Society. — In this parish, there is a branch of the Shet- 
land Fishermen's Fund, for decayed fishermen and their widows. 
The annual payment, 2s. and a little entry money at first In 
this parish, there are 46 contributors; 18 widows at present, 
who receive each 1 4s. ; six decayed members, who, altogether, re- 
ceive L. 1, 14s. 6d. 

The nett stock of the general fund is at present, L.2485, 16s. 
T^d. Its concerns are diligently superintended by William Mouat, 
Esq., the general treasurer. This excellent institution would 
have prospered much more, had it not been for some unfounded 
prejudices fostered among the peasantry. 

Poor. — Bressay. 

Average of yearly collections, . . L. 12 11 7 

Rent of mortified land, . 4 4 

Interest of mortified money, 13 6 

On the poor's roll are 32 persons at present, who receive at an 
average each only 8s. yearly. Temporary supplies and funeral 
charges amount commonly to L. 2. 

Burra and Quarff. 

Average of yearly collections, . . L. 9 

Rent of mortified land, . . .400 

Interest on a bill and account, variable, at an average, 3 

But it is sometimes necessary to draw small sums besides, from 
the money in account. Poor on the roll, 25, receiving altogether 
L.8, 6s. Occasional supplies, 1 9s. 

The mortified land in Burra ought to yield at least double what 
it does. But for nearly a hundred years, various causes have 
contributed to render this spot of ground of no avail for the 
pious and charitable purposes of the mortifier. 

It must be evident, that, if the distressed poor did not receive 



WALLS. 19 

some supply from relatives and neighbours, they could not live on 
the miserable alms the session has to give them. In Bressay, 
they receive much kind and exemplary beneficence from the fa- 
mily of the heritor. 

Fuel. — The fuel in general use is peat, although coal may be 
obtained by trading vessels. 

Revised May 1 84 1 . 



PARISH OF WALLS. 

PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. JOHN ELDER, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Batmdariesy ^c. — This parish is situated on the west side of 

Shetland, and near the middle. It is bounded on the east, by the 
parish of Sandsting, and on all other sides by the sea. It consists 
of four districts, namely, Walls, Sandness, Papa-Stour, and Foula. 
Walls and Sandness make part of the mainland, which is the 
largest of the Shetland islands; a hill of considerable height forming 
a division betwixt them. Papa-Stour (Stour signifying great) is 
an island about two miles in length, and one in breadth, lying 
north from Sandness. It is separated from it by Papa Sound, 
which is a frith a mile broad ; through which, runs a rapid and dan* 
gerous tideway. Foula is about three miles long, and one mile 
and a-half broad, lying to the west of the other parts of the pa« 
rish, and distant from the nearest point of land, which is in Walls, 
about sixteen miles. There is another valuable island in the 
south part of the parish, belonging to Walls district, called Vaila; 
on which is the residence of the principal proprietor of the parish, 
John Scott, Esq. of Melby ; and inside of which, there is an ex- 
cellent harbour with two entrances, named Vaila Sound. 

The greater part of the coast is rocky, the rocks frequently 
rising to more than 100 feet in height. On the west side of Foula 
they are several hundred feet high, and at one point, 1200 ; and 
in summer, are covered with sea*fowl. The parish is about ten 

* Drawn up by the late incumbent, the Rev. Archibald Sinclair* 



20 SHETLAND. 

miles long, from the south side of Vaila to the north side of Papa, 
and five broad, exclusive of Foula. 

Geology. — The chief rocks on the mainland of this parish are 
quartz-rock, gneiss, and porphyry, with red sandstone. In the 
isle of Papa-Stour porphyry, trap, and red sandstone prevail ; and 
Foula is composed of old red sandstone, with subordinate deposits 
of granite, gneiss, and mica slate.* 

, II. — Population. 
The population is 2315: of this number, 1104 belong to 
Walls ; 642 to Sandness ; 367 to Papa ; and 202 to Foula.— 
There are four propietors, each of whom has more than L. 50 of 
rent from land; besides several others who have less. 

III. — Industry. 

With two or three exceptions, the whole of the parishioners are 
employed in the same manner. They unite the two occupations 
of fishing and farming. In a favourable season, most of the fami- 
lies have as much meal and potatoes as they require for their own 
use; and some of them can even sell a considerable quantity. 
They have also milk and a little butter for family use, besides 
geese and eggs. Each family, in general, kills a pig yearly, and a 
few sheep or lambs. Small fish also for home use ^re obtained 
in great abundance, at particular times. Tea and tobacco are in 
general use. When the crops are good and the fishing successful, 
most of them live in a very comfortable manner. Some, however, 
live very poorly ; chiefly owing to their marrying before they have 
the means of stocking a farm, or to their settling on small patches of 
ground which are insufficient for their support. When the crops 
fail, many families are reduced to great want. 

None of the farms exceed six acres of arable ground, and in 
general they consist of no more than two or three. The rent, on 
an average, is about L. 1 per acre. Almost every farm has at- 
tached to it a greater or less quantity of meadow and pasture 
ground, without any additional rent; and all have the privilege of 
cutting peat for fuel in the hill ground, which is both good and 
abundant, except in Papa; and the right of pasturing there as many 
sheep, cows, and horses as they can send to it, or the pasture can 
support. 

The parish contains upwards of 1000 cultivated acres. The 

* Papa-Stour is one of the very faw Scottish localities oFfluor spar. It was dis. 
covered there, and is mentioned by Professor Jameson in his " Mineralogy of the 
Shetland Islands." 



WALLS. 21 

crops produced are oats, bear, potatoes, cabbages, and a very few 
turnip. There are only three ploughs in the parish, and they all 
belong to proprietors. 

The industrious and careful are, in general, well provided with 
wearing apparel and bed-clothes, manufactured by themselves from 
their own wool. Their Sunday dresses are imported. Their 
houses are warm ; but very little attention is paid to either order 
or cleanliness by most. Indeed, it is the general practice to place 
the byre in front of the dwelling-house ; through which, therefore, 
you must pass on entering; and inside, you meet with calves, sheep, 
and young pigs, besides dogs and fowls. 

Fishing. — The principal fishing is that of the ling. It is carried 
on in open boats many miles from land. A considernfile quantity 
of the cod fish is caught nearer the shore by old men and boys, in 
smaller boats than those used in catching the ling. The herring 
fishing has been introduced of late years to a great extent, and is 
likely to prove very beneficial. It commences after the ling fishing 
is concluded, ��� generally about the middle of August, and continues 
for a month or six weeks. 

The rents of the farms are paid from the profits of the fishing, 
and from the sale of cattle and butter. 

IV. — Parochial Economy. 
Ecclesiastical State. — There are four parish churches, — being 

one to each of the four districts of which the parish is composed. 
They are all conveniently situated, (except the church of Walls, 
which is only one mile from one end of the district to which it be- 
longs, and four miles from the other end), and they contain the 
legal amount of accommodation. Each congregation has its own 
elders, session-clerk, and poor's fund, and the Lord's Supper is 
dispensed annually to each. As there is only one minister. Di- 
vine service is performed in the different churches in rotation ; in 
Walls once every fortnight, and in Sandness and Papa once in 
four weeks, and in summer occasionally once a-fortnight, — both 
places being attended to on the same day. Foula is visited only once 
a-year, on which occasion the minister remains in the island two 
Sabbaths, preaching frequently during the interval. If there was 
a minister for Sandness and Papa, the minister of Walls might 
visit Foula twice a-year; but at present, while he attends to it, he 
leaves behind him three churches vacant. In each church, how- 
ever, there is a reader, (generally the schoolmaster of the district), 



22 SHETLAND. 

whoy every Lord's day, reads a sermon to the people, acd united 
with them in devotional exercises. 

The Wesleyan Methodists have three chapels in this parish, 
and one minister, who has also to officiate in the parish of Sand- 
sting. Their members are 216 in number. 

The Congregational ists have two chapels and one minister, who 
has also to officiate in many other parts. Their members are 115 
in number. 

The communicants belonging to the Established Church are 
584 in number; namely, 240 in Walls, 159 in Sandness, 136 in 
Papa, and 49 in Foula. 

The stipend of the parish minister is L.150 per annum, and 
the glebe is worth about L.15. 

Education. — In each of the districts or parbhes, there is an en- 
dowed school. One of these is the parish school ; the other three 
are supported by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christ- 
ian Knowledge. Occasionally, a few children in different parts 
are taught by persons employed by the parents for this purpose, on 
account of the distance at which they are placed from the parochial 
or Society school; and some are taught at home by the parents them- 
selves, '^^hough not more than a twelfth part of the population 
attend school at one time, and very often a much smaller number, 
yet the whole of the young people learn to read their Bibles with 
tolerable accuracy. A considerable number also learn to write, 
but seldom before they are grown up, — the parents considering 
that they discharge their duty sufficiently when they afford them 
the means of learning to read. As the young people seldom at- 
tend public worship till they are able, by their own exertions, to 
provide themselves with clothes for the purpos'e, it is of the utmost 
importance that the school masters be men of piety and intelligence. 
Many parents might provide their children with such clothes as 
would enable them to go to church, if there was a willing mind. 
The industry of the young people themselves in this matter is 
very commendable. One additional school is required for Walls, 
which, it is hoped, will soon be provided. The district for which 
it is needed contains upwards of 300 persons. Scarcely any school 
fees can be got from the scholars. 

Poor. — The poor arc very easily supported, and in the follow- 
ing manner : The parish is divided into sections ; and when a poor 
person has no relations who can support him, he is assigned to one 
of these, — the inhabitants of which receive him into their houses 



FETLAR AND NORTH TELL. S3 

in rotatioD and board him, while the poor's fund supplies what is 
required for clothing. This fund is derived from collections made 
at the doors of the churches, and amounts to about L.10 annually* 

Revised May 1841. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

FETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 

PRESBYTERY OF BURAVOE, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. WILLIAM WATSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

The united parishes consist of the Island of Fetlar and the 
north part of the Island of Yell. 

Extent and Boundaries. — Fetlar is in north latitude between 
about 60^ 34' and 60^ dS" by Thomas's chart ; bounded on the 
east, by the German Ocean ; south, by the wide frith separating 
it from Whalsay and the mainland ; west, by Colgrave Sound be- 
tween it and Yell ; and north, by the Sound which separates it 
from Unst and Isle of Uyea. It is 7 miles long and 4 miles broad. 

North Yell is in latitude between 60° 37' and 60° 43^ ; bounded 
on the east, by Blue Mull Sound, separating it from Unst ; south, 
by Mid Yell ; west and north, by the Northern Ocean. Lengthy 
G miles ; breadth, 5 miles. 

The figure of both is very irregular, being indented by nume- 
rous bays and inlets of the sea. There are no mountain ranges 
but several bills, none of which rise more than 300 feet above the 
level of the sea. In both parishes, there are some fertile valleys. 

The coasts, both of Fetlar and North Yell, are of great extent, 
owing to the many bays in both. In Fetlar, the principal bays are, 
Tresta, sandy; Aith Bay, pebbly; Funzic, the only ling-fishing 
station in the island ; Gruting Voe, pebbly ; Uric, where there is 
a kind of pier lately built; Sand, a small sandy bay ; and Mowick, 
where the people of the east part of the island bring down their 
peats from the hill of Lambhoga, to be transported home by sea. 

The principal bays in North Yell are, Basta Voe, a broad, 



24 SHETLAND. 

deep, shingly bay ; Gloiip Voe, long, narrow, and partly sandy ; 
Sand of Brecon, Papal, and CulKvoe. 

Our climate is mild but moist ; snow seldom lies more than 
three or four days at a time. Rheumatism and stomach com* 
plaints are very prevalent, and sometimes fever comes amongst 
us, but is seldom very fatal North Yell is said to be more healthy 
than Fetlar. 

Hydrography. — Colgrave Sound bounds Fetlar from south-west 
to north-west : it is about nine miles broad between I^ambhoga in 
Fetlar, and Burravoe in South Yell, and three miles broad be* 
tween Hammersness in Fetlar, and Burraness in North Yell. 
The Sound between Fetlar and Unst, is about six miles broad, and 
Blue Mull Sound, betwixt North Yell and Unst, about one or two 
miles, where narrowest. In all these sounds, but particularly in 
Blue Mull Sound, the tides run at a very rapid rate, so strong 
when wind and tide are contrary, that no boat or vessel could at- 
tempt to stem them. 

We have some mineral springs but of no account, and no lochs 
of any consequence, though numerous small ones. The largest is 
in Fetlar, in the neighbourhood of the manse, which may be three* 
fourths of a mile long, and one-fourth broad. 

Geology. — Serpentine, containing chromate of iron, is an abun- 
dant rock ; associated with the serpentine are deposits of mica 
slate, quartz rock, gneiss, chlorite slate, and clay slate. We may 
add to our list of rocks, diallage rock, syenite and syenitic green- 
stone, and granite in veins. 

Zoology. — Sea*fowl in abundance breed on our rocks and holms, 
and many eggs are taken in the breeding season. Scarths, gulls, 
kittiwakes, marrots, mother Carey*s chickens, and ducks of vari- 
ous kinds, abound. The wild swan pays us a visit in considerable 
numbers, going north and returning. Of land-fowls we have the 
corbie, the hooded-crow, the hawk, the grey plover, sparrow, 
linnet, starling, blackbird, wren, snowfleck. The mother Carey's 
chickens breed in deserted rabbit holes in the holms. The plovers, 
starlings, linnets, sparrows, snowflecks, and corn buntings are found 
in large flocks. I have seen only one or two robins, and once heard 
the cry of the cuckoo. The corncraik comes to us in summer, 
and wild pigeons are in abundance. 

Our breed of cattle and ponies is small but hardy. A good num- 
ber of both is sold every year ; fat cattle, from L.2 to L.3 ; ponies, 



FETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 25 

{rom L.1, 10s. to L.5. -Tbe prices of both have been consider- 
ably raised since the steamer commenced. 

A mixed breed of sheep was, some years ago, introduced into 
Fetlar, by Sir Arthur Nicolson, and scab, which was unknown 
among the native breed, was introduced along with theoL This 
mixed breed does not seem to thrive well. 

In the small lochs there is plenty of trout, which go up the burn 
to spawn about the end of September. Ling, cod, haddock, tur- 
bot, seath and flounders, are found in our friths and bays, sillocks 
and piltocks all along our shores. Limpets and welks are com- 
mon. The limpet is used for bait to catch haddock, sillock, and 
piltock. Spouts and large muscles are sometimes driven ashore in 
stormy weather. Large oysters are dragged in Bastavoe; and 
some spouts are taken in Gloupvoe. 

There are no forests of any kind in the parish. A few stunt- 
ed trees and bushes drag out a miserable existence in some of the 
gardens. A few apples have grown in the noianse garden, also 
some gooseberries, currants, and strawberries. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land-owners. — There are 28 proprietors in Fetlar and North 

Yell, of whom the chief are. Lord Dundas, Sir Arthur Nicolson, 

and William Mouat, Esq. 

Parochial Registers. — No parochial register is to be found, of 
older date than 1754 : it commences with the ordination of Mr Gor- 
don on the 12th June of that year, and was irregularly kept till 1803, 
when a new book was begun, in which the births and marriages 
are pretty regularly entered ; but there are no entries of deaths. 

Antiquities. — In antiquities, we are not behind our neighbours, 
if any body thought it worth while to investigate them. We have 
St Hillary's kirk above Feal, Old kirk at Fetchie Burn, Roman 
Catholic chapels at Oddsta, Urie, Rossiter, Gruting, Strand, 
Hubie, Funzie, North Dale, Roman camp at Snawburgh, Pictish 
forts at brough of Hubie and Aithsness, two round Pictish build- 
ings at Aithsness, several fonts dug up at Aithsness, some urns 
at Stackaberg with ashes, and bones among the ashes, stone urns 
dug up in the manse yard in 1828^ old burial place at Hammers- 
field, where the bodies have been burnt, numbers of small round 
tumuli among the hills. All these in Fetlar. In North Yell, is 
a brough at Burraness almost entire, and another at Brough. 

Modern Buildings. — The only modern buildings which we have 
in Fetlar are, a nondescript kind of house, designed for a mansion- 



26 SHETLAND. 

housOf by Sir Arthur Nicolson, and a modem mansIoD-house, be- 
longing to Mr Smith, an heritori both built of graystone from 
quarries in their neighbourhood. 

In North Yell, are several modern buildings, — the church, the 
houses of Gloup, Midbrake, and Greenbank, all built of stone 
from' their neighbourhood, with some freestone from Lerwick, for 
lintels to doors, windows, &c. 

III. — Population. 

Dr Web8ter*8 report in 1755 is the oldest authentic statement, and it states the 

population of the two parishes at 109B 

Mr Gordon's in 1793, . . 1346 M. F. 

r-n.M.«fiftai i Fetlar, 843 ifi7ft «ffK««.3B3 460 in Fetlar. 

Census of 1831, jj^^^' Yell, 837 1678, of these 3^3 459 j^ n. Y. 

FetUr, 1836, 859 
North Yell, 1838, 960 

The probable causes of this increase are, Isty no drains from 
the parish since the peace ; 2d, no epidemical diseases ; Qd, early 
marriages; 4M, the introduction of vaccination. 

All our population resides in the country. We have no towns 
or villages. 

Average of marriages in Fetlar for the last seven years, . 4f 

in North Yell, . . 5| 

births in Fetlar, . . « ]7« 

in North Yell, • 14^ 

Number of persons under 15 in Fetlar, 306, in Nortli Yell, 283^ 

betwixt 15 and 30, 205, do. do. 212 

30 and 50, 178, do. do. 167 

50 and 70, 111, do. do. 136 

upwards of 70, 43, do. do. 39 

843 837 

In Fetlar, the number of widowers is . • 17 

of bachelors, . . 6 

of widows, . . 82 

ofunmarried women upwards of 45, 28 

The number of families in Fetlar is . 147 

in North Yell, . 169 

Average number of children in a family, , 4 

inhabited houses, Fetlar, . 134 

North Yell, 150 

uninhabited houses, Fetlar, . 9 

North Yell, 11 

The people are not remarkable for any personal qualities. 
There are, in the two parishes, two insane persons, two silly, three 
blind, one deaf and dumb. 

The people are social enough among themselves, — sympathize 
with one another, — are apt to murmur at their high rents, — are not 
intemperate, since smuggling has been almost entirely put down ; 
but, within these few years, they have fallen into an abominable 
habit of smoking tobacco. 



PETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 27 

IV. — Industry. 
All the males in the two parishes, except a few to be hereafter 
mentioned, are employed in agriculture. Those who are employ- 
ed in the home fishery, have all something to do with the cultiva- 
tion of land, as heads of families, or children, or servants belong- 
ing to the family. There cannot be said to be any manufactures 
among us. A few, at their leisure intervals from the work of the 
farm or fishing, (for these two occupations are conjoined), employ 
themselves in weaving << hame claith," or in making and mending 
clothes or shoes. In the two parishes, there may be ten or twelve 
persons, who are chiefly employed as masons ; but all of these have 
small farms, and most of them are engaged in the herring-fishing 
in the season. In Fetlar, there are two retail merchants for tea, 
spirits, cloths, &c. and the same number in North Yell. There 
are in Fetlar, 123 men at the ling and herring fishing; 32 at Green- 
land and Davis' Straits; and 26 superannuated labourers. In 
North Yell, there are 128 ling and herring fishers; 25 at Green- 
land and Davis' Straits ; and about the same number superannu- 
ated. 

We cannot reckon, in the two parishes, more than five or six 
men-servants, all above 20. Of women-servants, there are 38 in 
Fetlar, and 44 in North Yell. 

Agriculture, — I cannot give an accurate account of the number 
of acres cultivated and uncultivated in the two parishes ; but there 
are in Fetlar 786| merks, and in North Yell, 634 merks of cul- 
tivated land, each merk being about three-fourths of an acre. 
Of uncultivated land, there may be in Fetlar from 10,000 to 
12,000 acres, all undivided common, except 1200 acres, and a 
great proportion of which might be cultivated with a profitable 
application of capital. 

In North Yell, there may be from 12,000 to 15,000 acres un- 
cultivated, all undivided common ; much of which might be im- 
proved, though it is much more rugged than Fetlar, and not 
nearly so capable of being cultivated. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of land in Fetlar is about 
16s. per merk, and in North Yell, about L. 1, with privilege of 
hill pasture. The expense of grazing an ox or cow for the sum- 
mer is 6s., and a sheep for the year Is. 6d. 

Prices. — The price of oats per lispund of 32 lbs. is Is. 9d. ; of 
bear. Is. 8d. ; of potatoes, 6d. per anker of 10 gallons; wool, 
from 8d. to Is. per pound; wadmal or claith, from Is. to Is. 4d. ; 



28 SHETLAND. 

stockings, from Is. to 5s. and upwards. Stockings made in Fet- 
lar have been sold as high as L. 2, 2s. per pair ; gloves from 6d. 
to 10s. per pair. 

Live-stock. — A mixed breed of sheep has been mtrodaced into 
Fetlar. The old breed is kept up in North Yell, which, 
though much smaller, and producing less wool, seems to stand 
our climate much better, to be hardier, and to have fewer diseases 
than the new breed. The cattle are small, and no attention is 
paid to their improvement. My own cows are a kind of cross, 
considerably larger than any in the parish ; but they are not so 
hardy, require considerably more food and . attention, and are not 
so easily fatted as the pure Shetland breed. 

The character of our husbandry is very slovenly, there being 
only four ploughs in Fetlar, and one in North Yell. The infield 
rotation in Fetlar is varied; 1. potatoes^ bear with manure above, 
lea, two crops of oats, then potatoes ; 2. potatoes, oats, bear with 
manure below, oats, then potatoes; 3. potatoes, two crops of oats, 
bear with manure below, then potatoes. 

The first rotation is accounted the best ; and when the bear 
comes after potatoes, the ground is neither ploughed nor dug, but 
scratched with a harrow after sowing, and the manure spread 
above. 

Outfield notation. — Oats and lea alternately. The oats are 
found to be more fertile in this way, especially when manured. 

In North Yell, the land is cropped every year. Rotation — bear, 
oats, potatoes ; but the land must be manured every year, except 
to potatoes, which are always planted in infield ground. The small 
gray oat is generally used, and this, from never changing the seed, 
has degenerated so far as to be little larger than rye-grass seeds. 
Potato oats, and other kinds of white oats have been tried by a 
few, but they seldom ripen, and are more liable to be shaken than 
the gray oats, though in good ground they grow very luxuriantly. 
Barley has been tried in a few places, and in good years has suc- 
ceeded tolerably. Wheat has also been tried in North Yell, with 
indifierent success. We want enclosures to protect, and sun to 
ripen it 

Very few outsets have been made in Fetlar ; a good many in 
North Yell. By these, a considerable quantity of hill ground has 
been brought in, to the great displeasure of those who occupy the 
rental land, as they curtail their hill pasture, and thereby render 
their farms less valuable, though they pay the same rents as before 






TIETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 29 

the outsets were made. We have no system of draining, irriga* 
tion, or embanking, by which either the old or the new lands can 
be properly improved. Indeed, there is no encouragement for im- 
provement, — al] except a very few being tenants at will on a rack* 
rent, their farm-bui]dings in general most wretched, and no en- 
closures except paltry ring-fences of turf. Where any improve- 
ment is made, a neighbour, envying the industrious tenant, goes to 
the laird, and offers a shilling or two per merk more rent, when 
the improver must either pay this additional rent, or flit at next 
term. 

Mr Jerom Johnson, a small udaller, who had been a consider- 
able time in the army; at Gibraltar, Minorca, and with General 
Abercromby in Egypt, on his return home, more than five and 
twenty years ago, made great improvement on his kail-yard, con- 
verting it into a neat, small garden, where he cultivates currant 
bushes, and other shrubs, flowers, turnip, onions, pease, carrots, 
and tobacco. He claims the honour of being the first who intro- 
duced field turnip into Fetlar. 

Mr George Lyle has, of late years, rented a small spot, of 
formerly barren ground, between two and three acres, which 
he has enclosed, and in which he cultivates with success, Scots 
oats and barley, field and garden turnip, cabbage, greens, and 
pease, though he holds a lease of only seven years. This shows 
what might be done, if landlords would give encouragement by 
granting leases, and giving proper accommodation to their te- 
nants. 

Quarries. — Some years ago, there was a quarry of chromate of 
iron wrought in this island ; but it is exhausted, and no other has 
since been opened. Wherever houses are to be built, quarries 
are opened in their neighbourhood, and the necessary quantity of 
stones taken for the purpose required, — afler which, they are de- 
serted. 

Fisheries. — The fisheries are a most important branch of our 
statistics. If prosecuted with vigour, they would prove to us an 
inexhaustible mine of wealth. But in this, as in most other 
branches of our economy, we are far behind in the race of im- 
provement Our boats are too small, and our means too limited, 
to enable us to make the proper exertions. Nevertheless, we are 
doing something; and, being well situated for the prosecution both 
of ling and herring-fishing, it is hoped that in time we may make 



30 SHETLAND. 

greater progress. The ling- fishing has been long carried on, and 
formerly to greater advantage than of late years. The grievous 
catastrophe of 1832 seems greatly to have damped the spirit of 
our fishermen. The ling-fishing is carried on from Funzie, on 
the east side of Fetlar, and from Gloup, on the north sidp of Yell, 
the former open to the Eastern, the latter to the Northern Ocean. 
But there are various other stations, in both parishes, where her- 
rings are cured. 

Though innumerable shoals of herrings yearly traverse our seas, 
and though our neighbours, the Dutch, have for centuries been 
battening on our wealth, it is but of very late years that Shetland 
has begun to avail herself of her own stores. There is not a more 
commodious station for the herring-fishing in the whole of Shet- 
land, than the Island of Fetlar. About the end of June or begin- 
ning of July, the herrings set into our bays, and continue with us 
till the middle of October. Some suppose that they remain all 
the winter, but this I will not affirm. Blow from whatever airth 
the wind may, the boats have shelter, for the fish surround the 
whole island. Boats from other parishes fish herrings in our bays, 
and are often obliged, by stress of weather, to land in our island, 
and sell their fish to any curer that will buy them, and at any 
price he chooses to give. 

There are three herring-curing stations in Fetlar, viz. Urie, 
Strand, and Aithbanks, and two in North Yell, CuUivoe, and 
Bayanne: the North Yell boats coming out every evening to 
our shores, and returning in the morning when the weather per- 
mits. 

Formerly, it w^as the custom in Fetlar for every tenant to keep 
up one-sixth of a boat for the ling-fishing, furnishing lines and 
other materials himself, and to give his fish to the landlord or 
tacksman at a certain rate. For a few years back, the mode here 
has been for the fish-curers to give boats and lines free to the 
fishermen, and to receive their fish at a reduced price. 

In North Yell, most of the tenants still keep up boats and lines 
for themselves, giving their landlords or tacksmen their fish at 
the current price ; but they are prohibited from selling their fish 
to any but the landlord or his tacksman. In the herring-fishing, 
again, the Fetlar, men furnish their own boats and nets, and are 
obliged to deliver their herrings to the tacksmen at the current 
price. The North Yell men generally use their own boats, re- 



FETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 



31 



ceive nets from the landlord or his tacksman, gi'f^ing the half of 
the produce for the use of the nets, and selling the other half to 
him — the landlord, or tacksman, and no other, for the current 
price. 

The following statement of the fishing in Fetlar and North 
Yell, may not be uninteresting. 



Fetlar Fishing. 
1834. 



Ling. 






M *i 



to 
90 



<58 tl li Jill kt^ 

2 19 6 7 6 
5 19 7 6 6 
4 19 7 6 

3 18 6 6 6 
3 13 5 6 4 



17 



12 

30 230 

12 75 

96 651 



Herrings.' 



C3 ^ 



21 9 5 

6 19 7 6 5 

10 19 7 — 

3 19 6 7 4 

21 



B a 

10 
30 
54 
12 



5 fe •• ® i 



o 
288 

580 

1000 

253 



20 
42 
80 
24 



106 2121 126 



2 19 6 
6 19 
19 



5 
2 

4 

19 



7 
7 

7 



LiKG. 

6 12 



6 6 
6 



18 6 6 6 
13 5 6 4 



Fetlar Fishing. 
1835. 



90 
36 329 
30 
12 
16 54 



|297 



106 770 



3 21 9 
8 19 7 

10 19 7 

4 19 6 7 

25 



Herring 
5 15 



6 


5 


40 





^_ 


52 





4 


16 



]84t 30 

30U 56 

330 90 

90 32 



123 905| 251 



o j2 



Ling. 



^ ^. a "^M 



8 19 & 20 7 6 6 
2 19 7 4 6 



19 6 

18 6 
6 19 
2 18 

19 8 

17 

18 6 



1 
1 



1 
1 
3 



6 6 6 

6 6 

7 
6 
6 10 
6 4 
6 6 



6 
5 
6 
6 
6 



North Yell Fishing. 
1834. 



5 



o 

48 550 

12 68 

6 34 

6 14 

36 

10 






'\ 



1 572 



6 
18 



53 
70 



Herring. 



25 



148 1361 



^s ®i; ^i 
58 8« li 

13 19 & 20 7 6 
3 19 7 4 

14 18 7 
1 19 8 6 10 
1 18 6 6 6 



«&*! 



si Is i'E? o-l 



4 52 

4 12 

4 56 

4 4 

4 4 



1066 104 

195 18 

1120 112 

74 9 

67J 8 



128 2522| 251 



* Shortest net 32 yards long* by twelve score meshes deep. Longest net 50 yards 
long, by fifteen score meshes deep. For these five or six past years, the herring- 
fishing has miserably failed : many of the small adventurers hare been ruined, while 
those of great capital have sufTered much. The ling, cod, and seath fishing has suc- 
ceeded tolerably. 



32 


SHETLAND. 














1835. 










No. of 
Boats. 

Feet of 
Keel. 

Feet of 
Beam. 

Men in 
each. 


Total 
Men. 

Cwts. of 

Fish 
caught. 


No. of 
Boats. 

Feet of 
KecL 


Feel of 
Beam. 


Men in 
each. 


Total 
Men. 


5|i ^^ 


8 19 & 20 7 6 6 


48 595 


16 19 & 20 74 8 


4 


64 


454 123 


8 19 7 4 6 


18 160 


4 19 


7 4 


4 


16 


59 24 


1 19 6 6 6 6 


6 40 


15 18 


7 


4 


60 


315 120 


1 18 6 6 6 


6 13 


2 19 8 


6 10 


4 


8 


53 16 


6 19 7 6 


?o|«^' 


1 18 6 


6 6 


4 


4 


18 8 


2 18 6 5 


•iH^ MMMB ^iMM 


— — 


— 


«— 


_.- ... 


1 19 8 6 10 6 


6 474 


38 






152 


899 296 


S 18 6 6 6 6 


18 94i 













25 148 1559 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market^Towns, — The nearest market-town is Lerwick, the ca- 
pital of Shetland, distant from thirty to forty miles by sea, of a 
dangerous navigation ; boats are frequently lost in the passage. 

Means of Communication. — There is no post-office in Fetlar. 
Our letters often lie weeks on the way. • In North Yell, there is 
a country post-office, which has communication with Lerwick 
twice a-week. We have no turnpike roads — no roads of any 
kind — not even sheep tracks, but must guide our way by rneaths 
from hill to hill, and from toon to toon. No public carriages, no 
railroads or bridges; no canals, no harbours, but some open 
roadsteads, as Tresta Voe, Strandwick and Urie, in Fetlar ; Bas- 
ta Voe and Cullivoe in North Yell. Of these, Basta Voe and 
Cullivoe are pretty safe ; the others very unsafe, except in the 
height of summer. 

Ecclesiastical State. — In both parishes, the churches are situat- 
ed close upon the sea-shore, — that of Fetlar at betwixt four and 
five miles distance from the farthest extremity of the island south- 
east ; that of North Yell, at betwixt five and six miles from the 
farthest extremity south. 

The church of Fetlar was rebuilt in 1790, and is much too 
small for the accommodation of the parish, having legal sitting, 
communion forms included, for only 267 persons. The exami- 
nable persons in the parish are 553. The communicants at last 
sacrament, in May last, were 372, all parishioners of Fetlar. 

'J'he church of North Yell was built in 1832 ; and, notwith- 
standing the repeated remonstrances of the minister, for which he 
subjected himself to much obloquy and ill-will, it is too small, 
having legal accommodation only for 327, including sacramental 

♦ Shortest net 82 yards long, by twelve score meshes deep. Longest net 50 yards 
^ngf by fifteen score meshes deep. 

3 



FETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 33 

Forms. The examinable persons are 614; and the communicants 
at last sacrament, the Sabbath after Fetlar, 399, all parishioners 
of North Yell. The communion forms are the only free sittings* 

The manse was built in 1756, out of the vacant stipend; re- 
paired in 1805, again in 1824, and again in 1833. Still, it is very 
uncomfortable, exceedingly damp, being built in a morass. Hence 
the walls draw water like a syphon. Neither books, nor clothes^ 
nor provisions will keep in it ; and, although a good deal of money 
has been expended on it, the minister has neither comfort nor pro- 
per accommodation in it. 

The glebe consists of 12 merks, and would let for L. 9. 

The stipend is L. 180, including communion elements. Were 
taxes, and expense of travelling to his church in North Yell, and 
to Presbyteries, to be deducted, the minister's clear yearly income 
would not amount to L. 150. 

There is one chapel in Fetlar belonging to the Methodists. 

It may be said that all the families in both parishes attend the 
Established Church, there being no families that I know, the whole 
members of which are Methodists ; but there are individuals to 
the number of from 20 to 30 in Fetlar, and from 10 to 15 in 
North Yell, that are connected with the Methodists. In good 
weather, the Established Church is generally thronged; on sa- 
cramental occasions, crowded almost to suffocation. 

The church collections in Fetlar last year, including commu- 
nion, amounted to L.6, ]s. 8d. ; in North Yell, L.6, 15s. 9d. 

Education. — There is one parochial school in North Yell, and 
one private; one Society school in Fetlar, two private. The 
branches taught in the parochial and Society's schools are, 
reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and navigation. The 
parochial schoolmaster has the minimum salary; the Society 
schoolmaster L.15. Their emoluments from scholars are small, 
not more than L. 8 at most. 

From an account taken as accurately as possible by the minis- 
ter in December 1834, it was found that there were in 

Males under 5 learning to read, 
Females do. 

Males between 5 and 15 taught or learning. 
Females do. . • • • ^ 

Males between 5 and 15 taught to write or learning. 
Females do. ... 

Persons above 15 who cannot read, 

write. 

The reason that North Yell is behind Fetlar in education is 

SHETLAND. C 



Fetlar. 


North Yell. 


6 


4 


10 


2 


103 


76 


91 


63 


d6 


20 


17 


6 


17 


16 


275 


284 



34 SHETLAND. . 

that Fetlar has had a Society school established in it, for a consw 
derable number of years ; and it is only eight years since the pa* 
rish school has been fixed in North YelL The people in neither 
parish are so much alive to the benefits of education as could be 
wished. 

There are, on the west side of Fetlar, two schools for children 
who are not able to attend at the Society's school, — one taught 
by a woman permanently through the year ; the other by a lad 
during the winter quarter. Each of them has from 20 to. 30 
scholars. There is, besides, an old man who has 5 or G children 
attending him ; his number seldom amounting to 10. 

North Yell, though it has the advantage of the parish school, 
and a good teacher, is not so well provided with the means 
of education. The parish school is situated near the north end 
of the parish, and is convenient only for the inhabitants of the 
north, leaving those of the south quite destitute. Some years 
ago, a subscription was entered into for building a school and 
schooUhouse for the accommodation of that destitute quarter; 
but, though the minister subscribed L. 5, 5s. from his own family, 
the whole subscriptions did not amount to L. 19. The expense 
would have been more than four times the sum raised ; so the 
scheme was dropped ; and as the people are neither richer nor 
more willing now, it need not be resumed. On a visit to that 
quarter lately, I found that upwards of 130 scholars betwixt five 
and eighteen might attend a school, were there one in the neigh- 
bourhood. Nothing has been done to supply this deficiency, and 
nothing can be done by the parish on account of its poverty. Un- 
less subscriptions can be obtained in the south for a school and 
school-house, the parish roust still sufier. 

Library. — There is a parochial library in Fetlar, containing 200 
volumes, mostly religious. There are about thirty subscribers at Is. 
a-year. In North Yell, there is also a small one ; but it is falling off, 

Poor, — Our poor are quartered on the several districts of the pa- 
rish, being maintained by the inhabitants of those districts, and re- 
ceiving a small sum annually for clothing from the poor's fund. 
There are only 13 in Fetlar receiving out of the poor's funds, and 
7 or 8 in North Yell. 

Public- Houses, — There are two houses in Fetlar licensed to 
sell spirits, and as many in North Yell, 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Since the last Statistical Account was written there has been 



FBTLAR AND NORTH YELL. 35 

B considerable increase in the number of inhabitants. Tlie pa- 
Tishes are susceptible of much improvement, were a better system 
of husbandry introduced, — were farms enlarged, and nineteen 
years leases granted. But the people are rather of a rambling 
turn ; do not like to be confined to one place ; are often flitting 
from mere caprice ; frequently remove to Lerwick, where they 
think they will be free of voar and harvest labour; and, after hav- 
ing spent, in Lerwick, what little they have saved here, return des- 
titute, and are glad to get a bit of land, probably much inferior 
to what they possessed years before. 



Since the above was written, a fearful increase of destitution 
has taken place. The three or four years of famine preceding 
the last harvest have completely impoverished almost every family 
in the two parishes, and the poor have increased far beyond the 
means in our power to relieve them. In the years of famine, the 
parish poor had more good meal supplied them, than they could 
ever before command; for the stores sent us by the benevolence of 
our brethren in Scotland and England (though the portion given 
to our poor was very scanty in comparison) were regularly doled 
out to them, and gave them a more abundant supply than they 
oould have received from their own country produce, even in the 
best years. But now, since this source has been closed up, and 
those by whom they used to be maintained can hardly maintain 
themselves, I know not what is to become of them. Our rich he- 
ritors are non-resident, and, though written to repeatedly, have not 
responded very satisfactorily to our calls ; and the resident small 
heritors have enough to do with themselves. 

In addition to the temporal wants of these parishes, they suffer 
much from spiritual destitution. 

From the difiicuUies of travelling, the parish of North Yell must 
often be without sermon for many weeks ; and in the most favour- 
able circumstances there can be sermon there only onoe a fortnight. 
From the poverty of the parish nothing can be done to remedy 
this evil ; and, unless the Committee on the Royal Bounty will 
place an ordained minister in North Yell to take the spiritual charge 
of that parish, it must still continue in that neglected state. 

Revised June \^\. 



PARISH OF UNST. 

PRESBYTERY OF BURRAVOB, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. JAMES INGRAM, A. M. MINISTER. 

THE REV. JOHN INGRAM, A. M. Assistant and Successor. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Boundaries, 8fc. — The island of Unst, of which this parish 
coDsists, lies in north latitude 60^ 45' ; west longitude 50'. Its 
length from south to north is 12 miles, and its mean breadth three 
miles. Its form approaches to an oblong square, and it contains 
upwards of 36 square miles or 24,000 acres. It is separated from 
the island of Yell by Blumel Sound, on the south-west, a rapid 
tide-way of about a mile in breadth; and from Fetlar, on the 
south side, by a sound four miles broad. It has the German 
Ocean on the east and north, and the Atlantic on its west coast. 

Topographical Appearances, — A considerable proportion of its 
surface is dry and level, when compared with many other 
parts of Zetland ; and although it has not yet the advantage of 
turnpike roads, one can ride from one end of it to the other 
without meeting any obstructions. Hills of a moderate height di- 
versify its scenery. Valleyfield, nearly 700 feet in height, runs 
along the western coast, and forms a strong barrier against 
the fierce assaults of the Atlantic, which, notwithstanding, dashes 
its huge billows against it with such fury, during a north-west gale, 
that foam and spray are thrown over it, into the valley on its 
eastern side, and strongly impregnate with salt every green herb. 
This hill terminates in a long projecting headland, called Herman- 
ness (from a hero who is said to have landed, in days of old, on 
these shores), the most northern point of the island, and of her 
Majesty's dominions. On the east side of this hill, is a valley, 
extending from Uyea Sound in the south, to Burrafirth in the north, 
almost the whole length of the island ; and in it there is a continued 
chain of lochs, which empty themselves, — one part of them, into 
the sea at Uyea Sound, — the other part, at Burrafrith. The 
lochs in the south division, from their dimensions, are called the 
small waters. The loch of Watly, the first in the northern chain, 



UNST. 37 

is one mile long ; the next to it is the Loch of Cliff, three miles 
long. An arm of the latter runs towards the .east, on the north 
side of the hill of Crucifield, for nearly a mile, and is called the 
Loch of Quoyhouse. Saxa Vord, a hill of 938 feet in height, 
on the east side of the bay of Burrafirth, rises abruptly from the 
sea, and its bluff round-head, showing itself considerably above 
every other point of land in its neighbourhood, makes a very con- 
spicuous mark for Bshermen, along the whole eastern coast. Cru- 
ciBeld runs from west to east, at right angles with ValleyBeld, 
and separated from it by the loch of Cliff, and terminates in its 
eastern extremity in two conical points called Heogs, one of them, 
much higher than the other, and supposed to have been anciently 
a place where courts of law were held, and where criminals were 
executed. This hill lies nearly across the middle of the island, 
and separates the Mid from the North parish. A little to the 
south-east of Crucifield is a high headland, called the Keen of 
Hammer, (query? the Celtic Cean)^ which forms one side of the 
north entrance to Balta Sound. The Vord Hill, on the south side 
of the voe or harbour, stretches along the east coast. Valleyfield 
and Saxa Vord, and the hills connected with them, are covered 
with peat^moss, an article most useful in this northern climate, 
where no coal has yet been discovered. To the eastward of the 
valley which runs along the base of Valleyfield, and following the 
course of the Loch of Cliff, and turning off by the Loch of Quoy- 
house, all that section of the island to the south and east (except- 
ing some small spots in the south-east extremity), is completely 
denuded of moss, and has a bare stony appearance. Notwithstand- 
ing, it yields excellent pasture for the native horses and sheep, 
which thrive remarkably well upon it. This section is composed 
principally of serpentine, hornblende, and diallage rocks. The hills 
to the north and west are chiefly composed of gneiss. 

Caves. — There are a variety of caves round the coast, but not 
worthy of notice. Under a very high and precipitous rock, which 
forms the north-eastern base of Saxa Vord, a noted haunt of kit- 
tiwakes and other aquatic birds, there is a grand natural arch, 
having sufficient breadth and depth of water to admit a boat to be 
rowed through it; it is 300 feet in length, and of considerable height 
Sea Coast — Captain Thomas of the Investigator, who has been 
employed for some years in surveying the coasts of Zetland, has 
been very particular in his survey of this island, both along its 
coast and in the interior. When his chart appears, it will furnish 



\ 



3S SHETLAND. 

all the information that can be wished for, as to the form and ex • 
tent of the coast, &c. The shores of Unst, like every other part 
of Zetland, are deeply indented by numerous bays and creeks^ 
some of which are low and sandy. The intervening headlands^ 
especially in the north-east, north, and west coasts, are bold, high, 
precipitous rocks^ The principal bays are, Burrafirth, on the 
north; Norwick, and Haroldswick, and Sandwick, on the east; 
Watswick and Wick, on the south-west ; and Woodwick, on the 
west side. None of these are safe harbours. Burrafirth and Nor- 
wick are two deep sandy bays, quite open towards the sea. Both 
have a very romantic appearance, and a considerable extent of 
good land on their shores, and are much admired by strangers 
who occasionally visit this island. The only safe harbours are, 
Balta Sound, on the east coast, about the middle of the island, 
completely covered from the sea by the grazing island of Balta, 
the property of Thomas Edmondston, Esq. of Buness, whose ma- 
nor house is situated near the bottom of the Voe, or harbour ; and 
Uyea Sound, on the south, covered by the island of Uyea, (about 
a mile and a half long, and one mile in breadth, an appendage of 
this parish, and the property of Thomas Leisk, Esq.) The 
grazing islands of Haaf Grunie and Huna, and the holms of Sk% 
Burrafirth, Woodwick, Newgord, Heogaland, and Weatherholm, 
belong to the proprietors of Unst, and lie along its shores, afford- 
ing pasture for a considerable number of black-cattle and sheep. 

Hydrography. — The streams of tide oflf some of the extreme 
points, especially ofi" Hermanness, Ska, and Lambaness, are so 
rapid and turbulent, that it is extremely dangerous, and often im- 
possible for boats to cross them, even in moderate weather, and it 
not unfrequently happens that they perish in the attempt. 

Perennial springs of excellent fresh water are most copious and 
abundant in every part of the island ; but tliere is nothing remark* 
able either in their situation or character. 

Geology. — The chief rocks in this island are, gneiss, serpen- 
tine, diallage rock, and chlorite slate. Besides these the follow- 
ing may also be enumerated, viz. talc slate, protogine, limestone, 
quartz rock, hornblende rock, and mica slate. The most import- 
ant ore is the chrome ore, or chromate of iron.* 

II. — Civil History. 
Land-owners. — The chief laud-owners, in the order of the ex- 

*r^ ^'^aw^if"! mineral, the HydromagncsUe of Professor Jameson, was discovered 
by Dr Hibbcrt in considerable veins in serpentine at Svinancss. 



UNST. 39 

tent of their property, are, William Mouat, Esq. of Garth, proprietor 
of nearly one-half of the parish ; Thomas Edmondston, Esq. of 
Buness; the Right Honourable Lord Dundas; James Ogilvy, 
Esq. of Greenwell ; Thomas Leisk, Esq. of Uyea ; and Gilbert. 
Spence, Esq. of Hammer. There are twenty-three other small 
proprietors, possessing from 20 down to 3 merks of land. 

Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers are of very mo- 
dern date. The first entry is made in October 1776. No doubt, 
records must have existed, at a much more remote period ; but 
after the most diligent inquiry, not the least vestige of them can 
now be traced. 

Antiquities, — Around the island, and so situated, that the one 
can bo seen from the next in order, is a continued line of ruinous 
buildings, called Pict's houses, or castles, or burghs, — round tow- 
ers, open in the top, with massy walls, built of large stones. Some 
of them stand in the midst of small lochs ; some on projecting 
headlands on the margin of the sea ; and others on level ground, 
and surrounded by two or three ditches or moats. According to 
tradition, they were used as watch-towers, for the purpose of com- 
municating, by means of smoke, intelligence of the approach of 
an enemy ; and this could be speedily done over all Zetland. At 
Muness, in the south-east quarter, there is a ruinous feudal castle, 
now the property of William Mouat, Esq. of Garth, which bears 
over the main entrance the date 1598, together with the follow- 
ing inscription : 

LiRi yc to knaw this building quha began, 
Laurance the Bruce, he was that worthy man, 
Quha carncstlie his ayris and affspring prayis, 
To help and not to hurt this waik aiwayis. 

This Laurence Bruce is said to have been of the family of Cults- 
malindie, in Perthshire, and to have fled hither, in consequence of 
having slain a neighbour in an afl*ray. The castle is an oblong 
square, 60 feet by 18 within the wall, and 24 in height At each 
of the four angles, is a tower. Two of these are hanging ; the 
other two rise from the ground. On the hill of Crucifield, are 
some concentric circles of earth and stone, with eminences raised 
in the middle, where, perhaps, in the days of Paganism, the priest 
of Odin had performed his unholy rites. . . . Two ancient obe- 
lisks, or standing stones, are to be seen, the one near Greenwell, 
a rude, unshapely mass ; the other near Uyea Sound, higher and 



40 SHETLAND. 

more tapering, but without any inscription or traditionary story .^ 
Each is supposed to commemorate the site of a battle when some 
renowned warrior fell. 

The ruins or some vestige of an ancient chapel, are found at 
'every turning. No fewer than twenty-four, at some remote pe- 
riod, have been standing in this parish. One of them, called the 
Cross Kirk, or St Cruz, in the neighbourhood of Harpldswick^ is 
still accounted a holy place, and occasional pilgrimages are made 
to it by some of the older inhabitants, whose minds are not yet 
emancipated from the Popish superstitions of their ancestors* 
There are six burying-places in the parish, around the ruins of 
so many old kirks, viz. at Norwick, Haroldswick, Balliasta, Sand- 
wick, Wick, and Uyea. The Rev. William Archibald, who offi- 
ciated as clergyman of this parish, from the year 1735 to 1785^ 
preached, by rotation, in three of these kirks for many years, viz. at 
Haroldswick, Balliasta, and Wick. The manse, then at Norwick,. 
was one mile to the northward of Haroldswick, four to the north- 
ward of Balliasta, and nine miles to the northward of Wick. A 
number of stone urns were found in the island of Uyea some years 
ago, filled with bones and ashes, and deposited beneath a heap of 
stones and earth. They are supposed to be of Scandinavian origin* 
Modem Buildinga. — A very neat new church forms a very con- 
spicuous object, as seen from a vessel entering the Voe or har- 
bour of Balta Sound, and, with the exception of the school- 
house, this is the only public building in the parish. Of private 
buildings a considerable number has been reared within these 
few years. Mr Edmondston has built a new manor-house at 
Buness, and two other dwelling-houses in his vicinity ; and at 
Uyea Sound, Mr Mouat has built a lodge for his own accom- 
modation, when he visits that part of his property which lies 
in Uust ; and a range of neat houses along the shores of the har- 
bour, for dwelling-houses; a shop for merchandise; warehouses; 
and workshops for a blacksmith, boat-carpenters, and a cooper. 
The water-mills for grinding corn are the same as they have been 
for centuries, exceedingly simple, but answering the purpose very 
well. Every neighbourhood has its own mill, and every farmer is 
his own miller. The mills are minutely described in the old Sta- 
tistical Account. 

III. — Population. 
There is reason to believe that this island had a numerous uo- 

3 



UNST. 41 

pulation at a very remote period. The vestiges of houses and 
stone-fencesy now in ruins, and grown over with grass, or buried 
in moss, are no indistinct indications of this. In former days, the 
inhabitants had but little intercourse with other countries, and had 
to depend chiefly on their own resources ; the healing art was 
little known amongst them, — perhaps not one medical practitioner 
in the land. In 1729, and again in 1740, the small-pox appeared in 
Zetland in such a virulent form, and made such havock, almost de- 
populating some districts, that they are yet spoken of under the name 
of the mortal pox. Accordingly, we find, that, subsequent to that 
time, the population was very low ; for, in the year 1755, it consisted 
only of 1368 souls. From that period, the increase has been steady 
and rapid. In 1780, it had risen to 1853; in 1700, to 1988; 
and in 1831, to 2909 souls. 

Vaccination, which has been resorted to ever since the year 
1800, may be assigned as one cause of this great increase. An- 
other cause may be found in the very favourable seasons this 
country has enjoyed during the last thirty years. There has been no 
failure of crops ; the fishing has been successful ; and trade has 
greatly improved. 

There are six proprietors of land of the value of L. 50 and up- 
wards per annum. 

Much has been said, and much has been written, by men very 
superficially acquainted with the state of the country, about the 
wretchedness, the enslaved, and oppressed state of the peasantry. 
Tliey have had all their information from hearsay, and have not 
given themselves the trouble to inquire after the truth, where they 
might have had it impartially stated to them ; and the consequence 
has been, that they have geen greatly imposed upon, and they, in 
their turn, have imposed upon others. They who have lived long 
amongst the people, and are intimately acquainted with their ways 
and means, and have seen the comforts they enjoy, can bear the most 
ample testimony to the fact, that there are but few of Her Majes* 
ty's subjects, of the same class, who are treated in a more kindly 
and indulgent manner by their superiors ; who enjoy so much li- 
berty; who pass through life with so little labour or care; or 
who have more reason to be contented with the situation and cir- 
cumstances a kind Providence has assigned them. They do 
not live in affluence ; but they seldom want the necessaries, 
and they have many of the luxuries of life, with one-half of 



42 SHETLAND. 

the toil that people of their class are doomed to undergo, in more 
genial climes.* 

The inhabitants of Unst are remarked for being naturally a 
shrewd observing people, acute and discerning; and although they 
have not, until lately, had the advantage of schools, which highly- 
favoured Scotland has long enjoyed, yet many of them are well in- 
formed, can read well, and write an excellent hand, and keep ac- 
counts ; and, in respect of general knowledge, they may compete with 
those who have had superior opportunities. Their moral and re- 
ligious character is far from being so high as it could be wished 
to be. They are just what people generally are in the same 
circumstances, — some good, some bad ; but, in general, they ap- 
pear to have a thirst for religious knowledge ; and it is hoped, there 
are many amongst them who truly fear God. 

Smuggling was for a long time carried on in this place to 
a great extent, and was no doubt attended by the evils which 
naturally accompany that illegal traffic. It has scarcely been 
heard of, for these last twenty years. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture, — There are about 2000 imperial acres of arable land 
in the parish, most part of it yearly under crop. Nearly an equal 
quantity of meadow and grass land, connected with the arable, 
remains uncultivated. The meadows produce a considerable 
quantity of good natural hay ; and on the grass grounds, milch 
cows are pastured during the summer. The whole of the mea- 
dow and grass ground might be broken up, and with proper ma- 
nagement, converted into good corn land, and much of it has, 
within these few years past, been cultivated, and made to produce 
very tolerable crops, by some of the more industrious tenantry. 
But the greater part of the farmers being also fishermen, little at- 
tention comparatively is paid to agriculture. Indeed, the pursuits 
of fishing and farming seem to be incompatible with one another, 
in the same persons. The soil is, in many places, excellent. Un- 
der a better climate and more skilful management, it would yield 
the best of crops ; and even with all the disadvantages of climate, 
and the slovenly manner in which it is cultivated, it yields heavy 
crops of black oats, bear, and potatoes ; the latter not inferior to 
those produced in the best districts of Scotland. Some gentlemen 

since this Account was drawn upi the circumstances of the people have been sad. 
)y altered. A general failure of the crops, for five or six years in succession, has re- 
duced them to great poverty, and it must be long, even under the most favourable 
circumstances; before they can regain their former slate. 



UN ST. 43 

in this island, who have turned their attention to the subject, have 
raised very fair crops of Angus oats, and have proved that as good 
turnips, and rye-grass, and clover can be grown here as in any 
part of the kingdom, and that the climate and soil are peculiarly 
adapted for such crops. They have vastly improved the appear- 
ance of the farms under their own immediate management, and 
made them look like oases in the midst of a barren desert. 

Most of the farms are, to this day, lying run-rig, and, according 
to the old system, consist of outfield and infield. The outfield 
seldom receives any manure. It is turned over with the spade 
every alternate year, for, since the reduction of the size of the 
farms, ploughs amongst the tenantry have been wholly laid aside ; 
yet, notwithstanding of this treatment, the outfield land yields a 
fair average crop of black oats. The infield, or ground nearest 
the farm-house, is yearly manured, and on it they raise fine crops 
of bear and potatoes. If the farms were brought into a more com- 
pact form, and enclosed, a few of the more active and intelligent 
might be induced to sow*turnips, and rye-grass, and clover, and 
thus produce an abundance of nutritious winter provender for their 
cattle, of which, under the present management, there is often 
great scarcity. 

None of the tenants, or but few of them, have leases, not that 
the land-owners are unwilling to grant them ; such is not the case, 
but because they are not disposed to take them. Many of them 
are so restless and fond of change, that they do not choose to 
bind themselves to remain for a fixed time in one place, and this 
is often the cause of much annoyance and loss to the proprietors 
of the soil, for it is not to be supposed that such tenants will take 
much trouble about the improvement of their land. It is seldom 
that the land-owners warn a tenant to remove, if he is honest and 
industrious, and there are many of the most substantial and re- 
spectable of the tenantry, who are now in the same houses and 
on the same farms which their fathers and grandfathers occupied 
before them, and some of them, by their industry, have doubled 
the ancient extent of their arable land. 

Many of the tenants have comfortable houses, built solely at 
the expense of the proprietors, at a cost not under three years 
rent of the land they occupy. 

As the extent of the commons or hills and unenclosed ground 
has never been ascertained by any actual survey, it can only be 
stated conjecturally. The truth, however, is not exceeded, whe» 



44 SHETLAND.- 

we say that there are 20,000 acres lying in those comnioiis, of 
ivhich at least 2000 may be capable of improvement ; but as they 
belong to several different owners, and are undivided, a grievous 
obstacle is thus in the way of those who might be inclined to make 
the trial. 

ttentj WageSf Sfc — The land is let for a fixed money rent 
The average rent of arable land is about 18s. Sterling per merk, 
which, arable meadow, and grass, may contain nearly two im- 
perial acres. The tenants have the privilege of keeping as 
many cattle, horses, and sheep on the common as they please, 
without any additional rent being demanded. 

The summer grazing of a cow or ox is from 8s. to lOs. Sterling, 
and much the same sum is demanded for winter fodder. Young 
cattle, sheep, and horses pasture on the open common, and cost 
the owners nothing. 

There are but few families in the parish, who require the assist- 
ance of a man-servant in the management of their farms. For 
the purpose of accommodating a more numerous body of fisher- 
men, the farms are now made much smaller than in former times. 
They consist, on an average, of about six imperial acres arable^ 
with a due proportion of meadow and grass land ; and there are 
generally more people in each house, than are necessary for the 
work of such farms ; but as the young people can be maintained 
by their parents at home,, and as they are very fond of liberty, 
they care not much about going to service. In the spring time, 
every individual who can lift a spade, old and young, male and 
female, is set to work in the fields, and they very easily and in a 
short time turn up the soil, and accomplish the labours of the 
season. Young men are more inclined to go to the Greenland 
fishing, or to prosecute the ling-fishing at home, than to engage 
in agricultural labours. When the gentry can prevail on a man 
to undertake the work of their farms, he is paid about L. 6 Ster- 
ling per annum and maintained. A woman servant is paid for 
farm- work, or the management of the dairy, from L. 1, 10s. to 
Lf. 2 per annum, and is maintained, and receives various perqui- 
sites besides, which will make up her fee to L. 1 more. Neither 
men nor women do half of the work that is required at the 
hands of servants in the south, nor is their labour so productive. 
Labourers and artisans seldom want employment, and are well 
paid, and when they are sober and economical they save money, 
as living to them is comparatively cheap. A good stone-mason 



UNST. 45 

receives from 2s. 6d. to Ss. a day ; inferior workmen, 2s. ; and 
day labourers, Is. a day. A house-carpenter can earn 2s. 6d. ; 
a boat's carpenter, as much ; a tailor, 2s. ; and a shoemaker. Is. 6d. 
a day. The rates at Lerwick may be somewhat different, and in 
some cases higher. 

Live-stock. — The breed of sheep, black-cattle, and horses, with 
a few exceptions, which cannot be mentioned as improvements, is 
much the same as it has been for time immemorial. The native 
breed is most suitable for the country and climate, and under pro- 
per management, would be by far the most valuable. The cows, 
for their size, are excellent milkers, and their milk is of the very 
richest quality. The sheep, when attended to properly, carry re- 
markably fine wool, and their mutton is highly prized for its deli* 
cacy and flavour. But, what is the concern of a great number is 
the concern of nobody, and as the cattle go at large and feed pro- 
miscuously on the commons, no attention is paid to their breed, 
and, the consequence is, they are degenerating fast. This is re- 
markably the case with the fine, lively, sagacious, and active breed 
of native ponies. They are now much smaller in size than they 
were thirty years ago, entirely owing to the fact, that all the best 
and stoutest are exported, and stallions of the most puny size are 
allowed to go at large. 

Quarries and Mines. — Chromate of iron, discovered on this 
island by Professor Jameson, and afterwards found in large quan- 
tities by Dr Hibbert, in the course of his mineralogical survey, has 
been raised and carried to market in its crude state in considerable 
quantity, for which a very fair price was at first realized ; but of late, 
it has been discovered in Norway and in other places, and the free 
importation of it being allowed, the price now offered is very low. 
There are also limestone quarries at Cliff and in the neighbour- 
hood of Balliasta. The tenants of those districts are allowed to 
work the quarries, and to manufacture the stone into lime on their 
own account. The lime is usually sold at the rate of one shilling 
per barrel, and becomes a source of considerable emolument to 
those who engage in the work. 

Fisheries. — This is the most important branch of industry in 
Zetland, and which the men prosecute with much spirit and skill ; 
and although often exposed to the most imminent danger, on a 
rough and boisterous sea, and although many valuable lives are 
often lost in this hazardous pursuit, (as was the case in 1832, when 
seventeen boats with their crews, five of them belonging to this pa- 



46 SHETLAND. 

rish, were ovetliaken by a dreadful storm, and buried in the sea,) 
yeiy with undaunted courage, they launch out in their small open 
skiffs, to a distance of thirty or forty miles from the shore, and 
appear to be more in their element when so employed, than in 
any other occupation. Their boats are now built somewhat larg- 
er than they were in former days. They measure from IS to 22 
feet in length of keel, with six men in each, and they carry from 
60 to 100 ground lines, each 42 fathoms in length, with hooks 
fastened to them by a smaller line, of about 3 feet in length, and 
at the distance of 5 fathoms from each other. The boats and lines 
are either furnished by the fishermen, at their own expense, or 
hired out to them, by the land-owners, or others, who purchase 
their fish in a green state, and cure them for the market. When 
the fishing is successful, they may average from 80 to 100 cwt, for 
which they receive, from 5s. to 6s., and sometimes as high as 7s. 
per cwt. Ling, cod, and tusk, and seath or coal* fish, were long 
the only fish which were considered marketable, and of these great 
numbers were caught, salted and dried, and sent to Spain, Ireland, 
and to Leith, and sold at from L. 12 to L. 22 per ton, for ling and 
tusk ; and from L. 9. to L. 12 for cod and seath. Immense shoals of 
herrings, annually, visit the coasts of Zetland, and every summer 
for a long series of years, the Dutch have fitted out a great num- 
ber of busses, which have appeared in swarms, in the harbours and 
along the shores of Zetland, and remained in the undisturbed pos- 
session of the herring fishery, to the great emolument of their 
'country. It never entered into the minds of the Zetlanders, that 
they might with the greatest ease come in for a share of their gain?, 
until within these few years, when some public spirited gentlemen have 
exerted themselves to rouse their countrymen to n sense of their 
own interests, and to engage in that lucrative branch of industry. 
The herring-fishery is now fairly begun, and proinises to be 
a source of great additional wealth to the people. The land-owners^ 
in general, furnish nets, which they either hire out to the fisher- 
men, or advance to them, at prime cost, to be paid for from 
the proceeds of the fish, within a time limited by agreement* 
They also provide casks, and salt, and take upon themselves the 
whole expense and risk of curing, and sending the herrings to 
market. The fishermen are paid so much per cran, and as there 
is a good deal of competition, they are sure of the highest price 
that can be afforded. The amount of fish cured and marked by 
the fishery officer in the year 1831 was as under : 



UNST. 47 

Amount of ling, tusk, and cod-fidi exported from Unst, which may be 

considered a fair average, 190 tons at L. 17, . L. 3230 
Seath or eoal-fish, 20 tons at L. 9, . . . .. 180 
840 barrels of herring would nett, . . . . • 504 
Add to this fish of all kinds used by the inhabitants as food, at an ave- 
rage less than 4d., per diem, each person, , . . 2000 



Total, L.59I4 

Produce of Land. — The amount of produce raised annually in 
this parish, consisting of com, potatoes, turnips, cabbages, hay, 
grazing of cattle, sheep, and horses, and swine, together with fowls, 
®ggs, &c may be averaged at L. 4 Sterling, per acre, or merk of 
cultivated ground, or somewhat above L. 8000 Sterling per an- 
num. 

Manufactures. — Articles of woollen . hosiery, chiefly consisting 
of stockings and gloves, are the principal manufacture in this pa- 
rish. They are knit by the females, and are highly prized for their 
softness and the beauty of their texture. The demand for Zetland 
hosiery is not nearly so great now as formerly ; yet the quantity 
sold is still very considerable. Stockings vary in price from Is. to 
10s. per pair, (a few pairs of extraordinary flneness are sold for 
L.2 per pair), and gloves from Is. to 10s., or even sometimes as 
high as 15s. per pair. The only other manufacture of any account 
is a coarse kind of woollen cloth, which is dyed blue, black, or red, 
according to fancy, and constitutes a considerable part of the daily 
wear of both men and women. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
The only market-town in Zetland is Lerwick, at least forty 

miles distant from this parish by sea. Cattle are driven by land 
to be sold there, at very considerable expense, and with great 
toil, through bleak swampy mossy hills, without any trace of a 
road or bridge, and they have also to be transported in boats, 
over two sounds or arms of the sea, where the tide runs 
with extreme rapidity, and renders the passage uncertain and 
dangerous. When the inhabitants are disposed to sell any other 
part of their produce at Lerwick, theji carry it thither in 
their own boats, and bring back with them such necessaries as 
their families stand in need of, and they can afford to purchase. 
Until about the year 1820, this was the only mode of communi- 
cation betwixt Unst and Lerwick, where the general po5t-o(fice is 
established, and all letters and newspapers coming from the 
southward had to remain there, to wait any opportunity that 
might occur, unless when it was found expedient to dispatch an 
express, at a considerable expense. To remedy this inconveni- 



4S SHETLAND. 

ence experienced by all, some gentlemen residing in Lerwick, in 
the year 1820, entered into an agreement to engage a man to 
travel as post betwixt Lerwick and this place, and to call at se- 
veral intermediate stations, and to carry all such letters and papers 
as might be committed to his charge. People residing in the 
country parishes have some agent, or friend in Lerwick, who re- 
ceives their letters from the general post-oflBce, and puts them into 
the hands of the person who is appointed to make up the mail for 
the landward districts, where there are receiving-houses conveni- 
ently situated. This plan has been found to answer extremely 
well. The post travels twice a-week, and greatly adds to the 
comfort of this remote parish and other parts of the country.* 

Fences in general are of a very inferior kind. A ring fence, of 
turf and stone intermingled, about three feet high, surrounds 
townships, of from 80 to 100 merks of land, often belonging to 
different proprietors. Within this fence there are from 12 to 40 
small farms, for the most part lying run-rig ; and the consequence 
of this mode of division is, that the tenants oannot, if they had the 
inclination, raise crops of ryegrass and turnips, because it is not 
in their power to protect them firom the cattle. The land-owners 
have good sufficient stone fences around their own farms, and they 
have them also subdivided into enclosures of six or seven acres 
«ach, and are thus enabled to have a judicious rotation of crops. 
They are now beginning to see the inconvenience to their tenants 
of the old system, and are having their farms laid in one spot, with 
the view, it is hoped, of enclosing them. Indeed, the work of en- 
closing has been going on, in a very spirited manner, for the last 
three years ; and although this cannot be converted into an agricul- 
tural country — the pursuits of the people, as 6shermen, the vari- 
ableness of the climate, and the want of good markets for any ex- 
tra produce, being insurmountable obstacles in the way, — ^yet there 
is good hope that such improvements may be effected, as will meet 
the demands of an increasing population, and enable the people to 
procure for themselves many additional comforts. 

Balta Sound, on the middle of the east coast, and Uyea Sound, at 
the south end of the island, (already mentioned,) are much frequent- 
ed harbours, and as good, and of as easy access, as any in the king- 
dom. It is much to be regretted, that there is no lighthouse to direct 
distressed mariners to their entrance. Such a work is as necessary 
on the north, as it has been found to be on the south extremity of 

There is now a Goyernment penny post, established in place of this pmate ar- 
rangement.— 1841 . 



UN ST. 49 

Zetland. Many a vessel tossed on the north sen, and in dark and 
stormy nights ready to be dashed against our rocks, would hail 
with joy the appearance of a light, by which they might be guid- 
ed to a safe place of refuge — and many valuable lives, and many 
a valuable cargo would thus be saved. There are two places where 
such an erection might be made, for the benefit of all vessels coming 
from the north and east, viz. Lambaness, a long projecting head- 
land which forms the north side of the bay of Norwick in Unst, and 
Strandiburgh in the Island of Fetlar. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is as nearly as possi- 
ble m the middle of the island, distant six miles from the northern 
and southern extremities, and one and a-half from the eastern and 
western. It was built from the foundation, at a small distance 
from the old church of Balliasta in 1825. li is a handsome, 
substantial, well-finished, and commodious place of worship, 
and does great honour to the heritors who erected it, at the ex- 
pense of about L. 2000 Sterling. It has accommodation for 
1200 souls, with a sufficient number of free sittings for the poor. 
There is at present no manse in the parish. The incumbent 
lives in a house of his own, and receives an allowance from the he- 
ritors in lieu of a manse, and with this arrangement all concerned 
are well satisfied. 

The glebe is at Norwick, about four miles to the northward of 
the church. It consists of 14 imperial acres of very good land, 
and, although let to a tenant considerably lower, is worth L.9 Ster- 
ling per annum. 

The tithes are valued, and the stipend, which is paid by the he- 
ritors, including communion elements, amounts to L.249 Sterling. 

A small chapel was lately built by a few Independents, and 
another by the Wesleyan Methodists near Norwick. They have 
no stated ministers, but are occasionally visited by some preachers 
of their own persuasion, who are paid by their respective Societies. 

About 487 families, comprehending an examinable population 
of nearly 1900 souls, attend the Established Church, two-thirds 
of which it is found to accommodate sufficiently, on all ordinary 
occasions. The people, in general, attend well. When the wea- 
ther is favourable, the church is full. The number of communi- 
cants is generally from 1 150 to 1200. The number of Indepen- 
dents in this parish, is 15; of Wesleyan Methodists, 25. 

Church collections average about L. 30 per annum. 

Education. — There are only two schools in this parish, — a pa* 

SHETLAND. I> 



50 SHETLAND. 

« 

rochial school near the church, and a school on the General As^ 
sembly's scheme at Norwick. The branches taught at these schools 
are, English, redding, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and navi- 
gation. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is the maximum. The 
school fees are about L. 6 per annum : but the school being situ- 
ated in a very populous district, a more efficient schoolmaster 
would double that amount. The Assembly's schoolmaster has 
L.25 Sterling of salary; and his school fees may vary from L.10 
to L. 12. 

There are no persons in the parish from six to fifteen years of 
age, who cannot read a little. But there are still a few aged 
people who cannot read. 

The north and mid parishes of this ministry are now well sup- 
plied with schools, which are within reach of the whole popula- 
tion, and well attended, the Assembly's school especially, which is 
full to overflowing, and is accounted by the people a great blessing. 
Yet there is still a large part of the population in a most deplo- 
rable state for the want of schools. The south-east, south, and 
south-west parts of the island, with a population of at least 1200 
souls, are at the distance of from four to six miles from the parish 
school, separated from the mid-parish, where it is situated, by a 
long dreary hill ; and the people have no means for the education 
of their children, unless when they can occasionally engage some 
young man, during the winter quarter, who has been educated at 
tiie parochial or Assembly's school, to undertake the charge. 

Two additional schools, one at the south-east, and another at 
the south-west part of the parish, are greatly wanted, and loudly 
called for. The people about Uyea Sound, and Sandwick and 
Muness, are, many of them, exceedingly anxious about the edu- 
cation of their children. In that district, were a school established, 
100 children could easily attend it; and surely in the present en- 
lightened times, it is sad to think that so many young creatures 
should be deprived of the means of instruction.* 

Library. — In the year 1823, a parochial library was established, 
under the direction of the present incumbent. It is supported by 
a subscription of Is. yearly, paid by each member ; and as many 

* Since this was written, a school-bouse bus been built in the proposed locality, 
chiefly at the expense of the late William Mouat, Esq. of OarCh, by whose lamented 
death the cause of education in these islands has been deprived of one of its warmest 
and most generous friends. A salnry has been granted and a teacher appointed by 
the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The people on the west side of 
the island are sUll lamentably destitute of the means of education for their children. 



UN ST. 5 1 

of the parishioners as choose, have it in their power to become 
members at any time. It has succeeded very well, and consists 
of about 300 volumes of religious and historical books. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are about 70 poor peo- 
ple constantly on the roll. They receive from 6s. to 10s. 
per annum, to help to purchase clothes. They are lodged and 
victualled by a certain number of the people, fixed upon by the 
kirk-session, who keep them in their houses a certain number of 
days, in rotation, in proportion to the number of merks of land 
they occupy; and they are generally well treated. Some of the 
poor have small houses built for them by their friends, in which 
they live, and the people amongst whom they are quartered* send 
in to them part of such provisions as they have for themselves, 
and, in this respect, they shew much kindness, for we seldom hear 
that the poor are in want of necessary food. 

The ordinary church collections amount to about Lf.dO per 
annum, and a demand for an extraordinary contribution does not 
frequently occur. But when it does, and a collection is called for 
in aid of any individual case of distress, it is as liberal as could be 
looked for, considering the circumstances of the people, and no 
other mode of procuring funds for the support of the poor has hi* 
therto been found necessary. It is, however, much to be regretted, 
that there appears no disposition among the poor to refrain from 
seeking parochial relief. So far from considering it degrading, they 
express the greatest earnestness to. have their names placed upon 
the roll, when they have the slightest pretence for mailing the re- 
quest, and when a ^^ quarter" becomes vacant, by the death of a 
pauper, there are always immediate applications for it It is hoped, 
that, as the minds of the people become more enlarged by a 
Christian education, they will assume a more independent spirit. 

PubliC'Housesy Sfc. — There is no house in this parish which can be 
properly called an inn ; but the kindness and hospitality of the people 
are such, that a stranger can never be at a loss, and there are two 
houses in the neighbourhood of Uyea Sound, kept by shop-keep- 
ers, where wayfaring men will find very comfortable lodgings. There 
are seven licensed retailers of spirits, ale and porter, in this island. 
Some of these are of too respectable characters, to allow of any im- 
proprieties in their houses; but there are others who retail liquors, 
and some of them without license, who are a nuisance in their neigh- 

* That district or number of liouses, fixed upon l>y the kirk-scssion. for the main* 
tenance of a pauper, is called a *' quarter.** 



52 SHETLAND. 

bourhood, and who use every art to engage the young men in 
drinking to the great injury of their morals, and the waste of their 
substance. The population, with a few exceptions, is in general 
sober, yet the quantity of ardent spirits exhausted in the parish, 
was some years ago very great, equalling in value one-half of the 
•rent of the island. There is now a great change. The institu- 
tion of a Temperance Society in November 1831, has produced a 
very happy effect. The quantity of liquors now exhausted in the 
parish, is less than the half of what it formerly was.* 

Fuel. — Peats from the bills of Valleyfield and Saxa Vord, are 
the only article of fuel used by the tenantry, and are procured by 
many at no small labour and expense, especially on the east side of 
the island, where peat-moss is completely exhausted. Besides the 
labour of cutting and drying them, the people are obliged to em- 
ploy from eight to ten horses, for the space of five or six weeks, 
every summer, to carry them home, and these must be attended 
by a person to put on the loads, and one or two boys to drive the 
horses. Most of the gentry use a considerable quantity of English 
coal. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Very considerable changes have taken place here, since the last 

Statistical Accountwas published, some of which have been glanced 
at in the course of the foregoing observations. The farms are now 
smaller, and more adapted for a population of fishermen, whose 
avocations allow them but little time for farm-work, and who have 
but very little inclination for it. They are, however, sufficiently 
large to supply them with meal, potatoes, cabbages, &c. ; apd to 
enable them to keep a sufficient number of milch cows, horses, 
sheep, and some pigs ; and they have at all times an abundant 
supply of the best fish, both for family use and for the market. 
Favourable seasons and successful fishings have placed many of 
them in easy circumstances, and enabled them to indulge in the 
luxury of tea, formerly little known among them, but now used in 
the greater number of families twice every day. 

In consequence of the reduction of the size of the farms, ploughs 
have entirely disappeared from amongst the tenantry. That im- 
plement of husbandry is now only employed on the farms of the 

* Since this statement was drawn up, a society has been formed in this parish, baseil 
on the principle of total abstinence from all intoxicating liquors, and which already 
numbers upwards of 350 members. Two of the most extensive spirit-dealers in the 
parish have wholly abandoned the traffic, from conscientious convictions of its im- 
propriety ; and it is hoped the icst will 8oon be led to adopt the same course. 



NESTING. 53 

gentry, and is of the same construction with the ploughs used in 
the south country. The old Zetland plough has now yielded to 
the spade, and is nowhere to be seen. 

In this island, far removed from a market-town, great or rapid 
improvements in agriculture are not to be expected. It is well 
adapted for a population whose chief employment is fishing, and 
who hold their small farms as cheap places of abode, and for fur- 
nishing them with various comforts, which they could not have, if 
they had only their fishing to depend upon. Yet improvements 
are silently going on, and considerable quantities of ground are, 
from year to year, added to the old arable land. If the com- 
mons were divided, and the improvable parts inclosed, from time 
to time, as the population increases, portions of them would be 
willingly taken at a low rent and cultivated by tenants; and this 
is the only way in which improvements could be prudently made 
in this place. To attempt speculations in agriculture here, on a 
large scale, would be the height of folly. 

Revised May 1841. 



PARISH OF NESTING. 

PUESBYTERY OF BURRAVOE, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. JOHN M'GOWAN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The parish consists of the three parishes of Nesting, 
Lunasting, and Whalsay ; and to these are annexed the detached 
islands of Skerries. 

Extent. — If the whole land of the parish were thrown together, 
its average length would be froni 18 to 20 miles, and average 
breadth 4. 

Boundaries. — Nesting is bounded on the east by the Island of 
Whalsay, with the Skerrie Islands adjacent ; by Catfirth Voe on 
the south ; and by Delting on the west. 

Geology. — The predominating rock in this parish is gneiss. Pri- 
mitive limestone, mica-slate, syenite, and granite veins occur in 
subordinate quantity. In the out Skerries there are beds of pri- 
mitive limestone associated with gneiss. 



54 SHETLAND. 

11. — Civil History. 

Parochial RegUtera.— There are registers of births and mar- 
riages, but not of deaths. These registers were very irregularly 
kept till 1827 ; and the Dissenters do not register, except those 
who have been married and baptised by the parochial minister. 

Land'aumers.—T\ie principal land-owners are, Robert Bruce, 
Esq. Simbister, and Miss Robina Hunter of Lunna. These pos- 
sess nearly the whole parish. 

Mansiof^House.—Ii splendid house and offices have been built 
in Whalsay by Mr Bruce of Simbister. The building is of gra- 
nite, and cost L. 20,000. The stone was imported across the 
Sound of Whalsay. 

III. — Population. 

Amountof popuUtionin 180l» - l^tti 

1811, - 1866 

1821, - 2005 

1881, - 2108 

The population of the three parishes is supposed to be at pre- 
sent 2250. 

During the last three years, only one case of illegitimate birth 

occurred. 

This parish contains a greater number of inhabitants, in pro- 
portion to the rental land, than any other in Shetland, owing to 
the exertions of the two principal heritors in making outsets, or 
new settlements, on grounds formerly uncultivated. 

IV. — Industry. 

The extent of arable land in the parish is supposed to be about 
1000 acres. All the rest is waste or in pasture. The whole 
land is undivided, and common to the tenants of the two principal 
proprietors. No wood. 

Rent — The average rent of land per merk is L. 1. No progress 
in the wretched agriculture of the parish, has been made during 
the last fifty years. The people direct their sole attention to fish- 
ing, and consider the cultivation of the lands as only a secondary 
object. 

Fisheries — The inhabitants adventure in what we call the great 
fisheries of ling, cod, and tusk ; but the principal part of their 
subsistence arises from the small fishing of piltock and sillock, 
which, except in very extraordinary years, they can pursue at no 
expense, and with great advantage, all the year round. 

There are fourteen or sixteen herring boats belonging to Mr 
Bruce, and about seven to Mr Hunter. Mr Bruce*s average 



NESTING. 55 

fishing amounts to 2000 barrels per annum, and Mr Hunter's is in 
proportion. Ling and cod, and tusk-6shing, called the Haaf Fish- 
cry, commences in the beginning of June, and continues till July 
and August. Tlie produce is sent to Leith. The greater part 
of the male population is concerned in fishing ; — and many men go 
to the Greenland whale fishery. * 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State, — There are three churches, viz. at Nesting, 
Whalsay, and Lunnasting. The church at Nesting is made for 
the accommodation of the whole population at sacrament. Sker- 
ries Church is sixteen miles distant from the mainland, and the 
minister preaches there only once a-year. Whalsay is visited by 
him eleven times in the year, and Lunnasting eleven times also. 
It was intended that the Whalsay church should have been en- 
dowed as a Parliamentary church ; but, unfortunately, this ad- 
vantage was not obtained* Lunnasting Church has been newly 
repaired, and the seating is good. Whalsay Church has been 
newly roofed ; but the seating is not good or comfortable. 

The parish church of Nesting was built in 1794, and is in a 
tolerable state of repair. 

The whole population belongs to the Sstablished Church, ex- 
cept thirty individuals^ who are Methodists, Baptists, or Indepen- 
dents. 

Stipend L. 1 50 ; of which sum L. 69 are received from Exche- 
quer. The extent of the glebe is twelve merks and a half. 

The manse was built in 1770. It was lately repaired, but again 
needs repair. 

Education. — There is one parochial, and two adventure schools. 
Three more are required. Education is, in this parish, at the 
lowest ebb. The parish schoolmaster's salary is L.25 per annum, 
and his fees do not exceed L. 2 or L. 3. 

Poor. — Average number of paupers yearly on the permanent 
roll for the three years 1835-36-37, 25. Average yearly amount 
of church collections for these years, L.14, 2s. Id. Mortcloth 
dues, &c. L.1, 8s. 

* Seventeen boats perished in 1892 ; seven of which beloDg«<l to Nesting. About 
L. 3000 were raised in Scotland and in London for relief of the widows; each widow 
ri'cuiving L.3: each child under fourteen, lOs ; and parents dejiendingon sont, L.2. 
This allowance they have got annually since 1832, and will get till 1843. 

June 1841. 



PARISH OF DELTING. 

PRESBYTEllY OF BURRAVOE, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. JOHN PATON, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name J Situation^ and Extent, — The name seems to be of Danish 

or Norwegian origin. The parish is bounded on the west by North- 
maving, from which it is divided by a long narrow voe, called Sutom 
Voe; on the east, by Nesting and Lunnasting; on the north, by 
Yell Sound, which separates it from Yell ; and on the south, by 
Weesdale and Sandsting. It is difficult to state, with any degree 
of precision, the length or breadth of this parish, as it is much inter- 
sected by narrow voes, and no part of it is above two miles from 
the sea. The appearance of the county is hilly, bleak, and barren. 

The air is moist, but^ot unhealthy. 

There are some small lakes or lochs in the parish, but nothing 
deserving the name of river. 

Geology, — The prevailing rocks in this parish are gneiss and 
syenite : subordinate are beds of limestone and of hornblende rocks. 

II. — Civil History. 

Parochial Registers, — There is a register of births and mar- 
riages, and a record of the acts of the kirk-session. The latter 
commences in 1709, and was regularly kept till 1719, — from which 
time till 1761 there is a blank. From 1751, this record was agfain 
regularly kept till 1781. Since 1821 the entries have been quite 
regular. The register of marriages and births commences in 1761, 
but was not properly kept till within the last twenty years. 

Land'owncrs. — The principal land-owners at present are. Earl 
of Shetland ; Arthur Gifford of Busta ; Captain C. Mowat of 
Garth; Mrs William Mowat; Miss Hunter of Lunna; Repre- 
sentatives of R. Hoseason; and William Angus of Toft. No 
valuation ever existed in Shetland. Public charges are paid ac- 
cording to an arbitrary arrangement of old standing, and peculiar 
to this county. 

• From iiolcb furnijJicd by ihc school muster at Brae, Dtlliug. 



DELTING. 57 

Mansion- Houses, — The mansion-houses in the parish are those 
of Biista, Garth, Ullhouse, and Mossbank. 

Antiquities, — Of antiquities the parish has little to boast. Of 
the Piclish castles mentioned in the old Account there are no 
remains, except that of Brough, at Yell Sound side, which is much 
dilapidated. The others, at Burraness in Firthsvoe, and Burra- 
voe in Bustavoe, have been entirely demolished, and levelled with 
the ground, — the foundations being occupied for booths or store- 
houses and stations for curing fish. But there are two relics of 
antiquity not mentioned in the old Account. One of these is 
the remains of a wet-dock or harbour at Burravoe, which, from its 
proximity to the Pictish castle that stood there, must have been 
built as a place of security for such small craft as belonged to it 
The other is a stone, (a block of granite 10^ feet high, circumfe- 
rence near the top 18 feet, at the base 16 feet,) commonly called 
the standing-stone of Busta. It has evidently been set up by the 
hands of man. 

In the rocky banks of Culsterness, there is a cave of some ex- 
tent, and moderate height, containing an outer and inner apart- 
ment, and of very difficult access, said to have been in former 
times a hiding-place. There is another dtre at the side of the 
loch of Trondavoe, of less extent, which appears to have been 
made by art, for what purpose cannot now be ascertained ; but it 
is supposed to have been a place, which, in times long past, was 
used by sheep-stealers, in which to deposit their stolen sheep. 

III. — Population. 
In this parish there are neither towns nor villages. 

1 he porulation amounted in 1811, to . 1624 

1821, . 1818 

1831. . 2070 

1841, , 2087 

During the last three years, there was only one illegitimate birth. 

IV. — Industry. 

The land is not estimated by acres, but by merk-land, an old 
Norwegian or Danish denomination, the quantity designated by 
which is not now understood ; but, generally speaking, this measure 
may be estimated as containing about two-thirds of a Scotch acre. 
Upon this reckoning, the parish may contain about 1000 acres 
under cultivation ; and the pasture ground enclosed and attached 
to these 1000 acres, may be as much more. 

There is no wood of any description in the parish. 

Rent, — The rent may be pretty fairly taken, on an average. 



58 SHETLAND. 

at L. 1 per merk-land. The real rent, as nearly as can be ascer« 
tnined, is about L.IOOO. 

There have been improvements lately made in draining, instead 
of the old system of leaving an open ditch between each rig, which 
caused a great waste of surface. . In several places, these ditches 
are filled with stones, covered over, and the laud brought into a 
proper state. There have also been introduced into this parish 
twenty ploughs, (commonly called Scotch ploughs, I suppose to 
distinguish them from the plough formerly used in the parish, 
which had only one stilt,) and thirteen carts. A few years ago, 
there were only two carts in the parish. 

Fisheries.^-^The fishings are of ling, cod, and herring. Last 
year, 523 barrels of herrings, and 60 tons of ling, cod, tusk, and 
saith, were cured in the parish ; but a much greater quantity were 
taken by the fishermen belonging to it In the month of May, all 
the fishermen belonging to the parish repair to the fishing-sta- 
tions in Northmavine and Papa- Stour, for the purpose of prosecut- 
ing the ling and cod fishing, upon which they principally depend 
for the payment of their rents. Besides the above, the coal fish 
(commonly called sillock and piltock) are taken extensively in the 
' parish ; from which, the inhabitants derive support for their fami- 
lies, and occasionally make considerable quantities of oil. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical S/£i/e.— The number of families belonging to the 
Established Church is 374; there are 17 families Methodists; and 
3 Independents. The stipend amounts to L. 150. The extent of 
the glebe is nine merk-land; yearly value L.IO. The manse was 
built in 1751 ; completely repaired and enlarged (at the expense 
of at least L. 500) between the years 1819 and 1821. Its present 
condition is not good. 

Education. — There are four schools in the parish. Two more 
are very greatly required. The salary of the parochial teacher is 
Lf.25, 13s. 3Jd. His fees may amount to L.3 per annum ; and he 
receives L.2, 2s. 9d. in lieu of garden ground. 

Poor. — The average number of persons receiving aid during 
the last three years is 25. Average sum allotted to each, 5s. 3Jd. 
The average annual amount of contributions for last three years, 
L.9, 17s. 6|d. Of this sum L.6, lis. on an average were annual- 
ly divided among the poor. The remainder was expended on the 

interment of paupers, and other casualties. 
Mai/ 1841. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

TINGWALL, WHITENESS, & WEESDALE. 

PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD X>V SHETLAND. 

THE REV. JOHN TURNBULL, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Boundaries. — This parish, consisting of the united parishes 

of Tingwall, Whiteness, and Weesdale, is bounded on the north, 

by the sea, and the parishes of Nesting and Delting ; on the west, 

by the sea, and the parish of Sandsting ; on the south, by the sea 

and QuariT; on the east, by Lerwick and Gulberwick. Lerwick 

was disjoined from Tingwall, and erected into a separate parish, 

in 1701. Sound and Gulberwick were disjoined from Tingwall in 

1722, and annexed to the parish of Lerwick. 

Extent. — Tingwall is in length, from north to south, from 12 

to 14 miles. Whiteness lies to the west of Tingwall, and is in 

lenc[th from 5 to 6 miles. Weesdale is to the north-west of White- 

ness, and from 6 to 7 miles in length. 

II. — Civil History. 

Ancient Remains. — There are many tumuli, where the Scandi- 
navians had buried their dead. In those which were lately opened, 
earthen urns of various sizes were discovered, containing calcined 
bones. Steinbartes or stone axes, called here thunder-bolts, are 
frequently found, also axrow-heads. There are also the remains 
of a very great many Roman Catholic chapels. 

Tingwall was formerly an archdeaconry. Most of the church 
lands in it were made over by Sir Jerome Cheyne, the Popish 
Archdeacon of Tingwall, to his nephew, and remained in the fa- 
mily, without, I believe, ever being challenged. 

In 1592, when Presbyterianism was established in Scotland, 
Tingwall was the seat of, and gave name to, the Shetland Pres- 
bytery ; the meetings of which were afterwards removed to Scal- 
loway. 

While the Shetland Islands remained under the Danish crown^ 
the Foud or chief magistrate resided here. 



60 SHETI.AND. 

At a small holm in the Loch of Tingwall, the assize was held, 
and the judgments of the other courts (Gula Thing) were revised.* 
On a hill at a little distance, is the place where the last sentence 
of the law was inflicted on the condemned. After these islands 
came under the Scottish Crown, this court was removed to Seal- 
bway. The last who suffered there, were Barbara TuUoch, and 
her daughter, Ellen King, who were condemned for the crime of 
witchcraft, and put to death in a cruel manner in the beginning 
of the eighteenth century. 

Scalloway is the only village in the parish. It was anciently 
the capital of Shetland, and a burgh. The name is said to sig- 
nify the harbour beside the mansion bouses, — Scalla signifying 
bouse, and way, or more properly vie^ a roadstead. Some sup- 
pose it to have been Scallavicky the little harbour. In this village 
most of the Shetland gentlemen bad residences. And even in the 
recollection of some old people, the Sinclairs of House, (descen- 
dants of the St Clairs of Caithness,) Mitchells of Westshore, 
Scotts of Giblesta, Umphrays of Asta and Berry, Mitchells of 
Girlsta, Dicks of Fracafield, Dicks of Warmadale, Mowbrays, 
&C. had houses in Scalloway. The only gentleman in the village 
now is Mr Scott of Scalloway. The castle of Scalloway, a fine 
old ruin, stands to the east of the village. It was built in 1600, 
by Earl Patrick Stewart. Great oppressions and heavy burdens 
were imposed upon the people during the erection of this edifice. 
The village has increased much of late, and is chiefly supported 
by the fishing. 

Ancient History, — St Ninian is said to have introduced Christ- 
ianity into Shetland ; but it did not generally prevail until 995. 
These islands were in a very unsettled state (being frequently 
taken by Scotch pirates, and retaken by the Danes,) until King 
Harold, in 776, took possession of Shetland, Orkney, and the 
Western Isles. Hacon Adlestain introduced the Gula Thing law 
into Shetland. After King Harold was slain at Stamford Bridge, 
in 1067, his son visited Shetland, &c. and, with the consent of 
Adlebert, Archbishop of Bremen, established bishops in all these 
islands. After his return to Norway, in 1672, he granted to the 
merchants of his new city of Bergen the sole right of trading with 
the islands, excepting that 360 cwts. of wool were annually ex- 
ported for the use of the Archbishop of Bremen and his clergy. 

• Isldiui Law, as the highest courts were held in islands. 



TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEESDALE. Gl 

In 1-269, King Henry of England entered into a commercial 
treaty with King Magnus Lagabetter of Norway. Englishmen 
were sent to inquire into the state of the islands, their extent, 
produce, &c. It is supposed they also divided the land into merks. 

In 1*271, Shetland was separated from Orkney, and united to 
Faroe. They had had the same Foud and Lagamand who resid- 
ed at Scalloway. They had between them nine bishops. ♦ 

By a treaty of 1470, Shetland was pledged to the Crown of 
Scothmd ; and from that period, the original inhabitants were most 
grievously oppressed by tyrants, from time to time, sent over by 
the Scottish Crown. At the time of the transfer, all the property 
in. Shetland was held by Udal tenure, (descending from father to 
son without any written documents,) paid no fees, and owned no 
superior. About 1664, Douglas of Spynie, factor for Lord Gran- 
dison, compelled many of the simple udallers to take out feu-char- 
ters for their lands. Very few of the descendants of the Norwe- 
gians now possess lands in Shetland. There are still a few in Dun- 
rossness and Cunningsburgh. For a century before the islands 
were transferred to the Scottish Crown, the St Clairs of Caithness 
possessed a very large share of the Shetland property, which their 
descendants enjoyed until a late period. 

In 1530, the islanders were so oppressed by James, Earl of 
Moray, that, simple and yielding as they were, they rose in arms 
against his factor, and the Crown was compelled to revoke the 
charter granted to him of the lands belonging to it in Shetland. 

In 1561, Queen Mary, importuned by Lord Robert Stewart, 
her natural brother, made a grant to him of all the Crown lands 
in Orkney and Shetland. After her unfortunate connexion with 
Bothwell, she revoked the grant given to Lord Robert Stewart, 
and conferred it on her husband. On Bothwell's forfeiture, the 
lands again reverted to the Crown, and Lord Robert Stewart 
gained possession of them ; but, owing to his cruelty to the inha- 
bitants, he was deprived of them, and confined for six months in 
the palace of Linlithgow. But, in 1581, his interest at Court 
procured for him a new grant of the Earldom; he was also ap- 
pointed Justiciar, with power to convoke and dissolve the Law- 
taings. He forfeited the grant in 1585. 

In 1 587, Sir John Maitland obtained a grant of the islands, re- 
venues, &c. ; but, having resigned. Lord Robert Stewart prevaiU 

• For much of the above information I am indebted to the Rev, Mr Schroter of 
Faroe. 



G2 SHETLAND. 

ed on King James to confer them on him; and, in IGOO, Earl 
Patrick obtained a new grant of them, lived at Scalloway, built 
the castle, and grievously oppressed the inhabitants, doing all in 
his power to pre\'ent their complaints reaching the ears of Govern- 
ment In 1608, however, they made known their grievances to 
Parliament, which, in 1612, revoked the charter, and annexed the 
Lordship to the Crown. Two years afterwards. Earl Patrick, who 
justly merited punishment for his cruelty to the Shetlanders, was 
put to death for high treason. He had the power of life and death 
over the inhabitants of these islands, fined them, and confiscated 
their property at his pleasure. He assessed the country in money, 
provisions, and personal labour. He also feued lands he had seiz- 
ed firom the poor udallers ; and these, with scatt and other bur- 
dens then imposed, together with the Crown lands, form the re- 
venue of the Earldom in Shetland. 

In 1614, Sir James Stewart of Ochiltree farmed the Crown 
pro\>erty ; but he being also guilty of the greatest oppression was 
deprived of it. 

In 1624, Sir George Hay was appointed Farmer- General and 
Steward of the islands. He, too, oppressed the poor Shetland- 
ers ; and the lordship was again annexed to the Crown by act of 
Parliament. 

In the reign of Charles I. the Earl of Morton obtained a wad- 
set of the Lordship of Shetland and Earldom of Orkney for the 
sum of L.dO,000, said to have been advanced his Majesty by him. 
This deed was ratified by act of Parliament. No attention was 
paid to it during the Commonwealth ; but, at the Restoration, 
Viscount Grandison, as trustee for the Morton family, obtained a 
grant of the property and revenues belonging to the Crown in 
Shelland and Orkney. 

In 1641, the alleged debt due the Earl of Morton was discharg- 
ed, and the Lordship of Shetland and Earldom of Orkney were 
to remain inseparably annexed to the Crown. During the reign 
of Queen Anne, however, on account of the active part taken by 
James Earl of Morton in bringing about the Union between Eng- 
land and Scotland, he obtained a new grant in the form of a wad- 
set, redeemable for the old sum of L.30,000. 

In 1742, the Earl of Morton obtained an irredeemable right to 
the lands, on condition of improving the islands. He was to drain 
marshes, build harbours, promote the fisheries, and improve the 



TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEESDALE. 63 

agriculture. These conditions, however, have never been ful- 
filled. 

In 1776, Lord Morton sold his lands and casualties in Shetland 
to Sir Laurence Dundas, the ancestor of the present E^rl of Zet* 
land, for the sum of L.66,000. 

Burdens. — There were many burdens imposed on Shetland, 
such as scatt, wattle, sheep, and oxpcnny. Although it is main- 
tained that scatt was the Danish land-tax, yet, until lately, it was 
never levied, when the lands were not under cultivation ; but, in a 
process before the Court of Session in 1829, this casual payment 
was made a feu. Scatt varies on the merk from 4d. to Is. 6d., 
those farms or rooms having a right to a large common paying 
more than those not having such a privilege. The scatt was for- 
merly paid in butter and oil. The Shetland proprietors have also 
to pay the British land tax. The wattle was a tax imposed on 
every family, paid in barley to the foud or bailie. It is said to 
have had its origin from presents made to a pious lady, sent over 
by the Bishop of Orkney to bless the pastures, in order to the in- 
crease of the flocks. It is now included in the scatt Sheep and 
oxpenny had their origin from a certain number of sheep and oxen 
furnished for the governor's table from every parish.* It was also 
paid in butter and oil. It, too, is now included in the scatt. 
The feus were also paid in butter. All these butter payments 
were made in merks and lispunds. The lispund was formerly 
15 lbs. ; but, in a process lately before the Court of Session, it 
was made 30 lbs. Tron, or 32 lbs. Avoirdupois-f 

By a late act of Parliament, the Earl of Zetland (then Lord 
Dundas) obtained leave to dispose of his feus, scatt, &c., which 
have almost all been bought up by the Shetland heritors. 

Lcnid Rent — The land mails or rents were anciently paid- in 
woodmail,! afterwards converted into money and butter. The 
merks land were rated at 6 penny, 12 penny, &c. The J 2 penny 
paid 16s. and 16 lbs. butter. The tenant also paid the teinds in 
kind, now converted into money.§ They also paid one fowl for 
every house or reek " to feed his Majesty's hawks." This claim 

* First granted as a corapliincnt to Bothwell, when he took refuge in Shetland 
aft or his marriage with Queen Mary. 

f See Pundlcr process. 

:{: Woodmail, or mill, (cloth payment) was a strong woollen cloth made in Shet- 
land, valued at 2s. per guUding. There are six cuttles or Scotch ells in one guilding. 

§ The Bishop of Orkney formerly drew one-half of all the corn tcind in Shetland, 
except in the parish of Tingwall, the Archdeacon having the whole of the teinds 
parsonage and vicarage. 



C4 SHETLAND. 

has again been set up t)y her Majesty's Falconer for Scotland, but 
resisted by theShetlandgentlemen,andaprocessin regard to it is now 
depending before the Court of Session. Formerly, when leases were 
granted^ a sum was advanced by the lessee, termed a grassum^ or 
entry money, in order that the lands might be kept at their old 
rent. In addition to the land rent, every tenant was obliged to 
pay one fowl per merk to his landlord, to deliver his tish to him 
at a certain price ; and whatever produce of his farm he had to 
dispose of, had 6rst to be offered to him. The landlord in return 
always supported his tenant in years of scarcity. Rents are now 
paid in money. 

Until lately, great attention was paid to the division of scathold. 
The bailie, or chief magistrate, went along the marches, accom- 
panied by some of the most respectable people of each parish, who 
were well acquainted with the division, and with them some young 
boys, on whom they bestowed a good flogging at particular places* 
in order that they might remember the marches ; after which, they 
received some little reward. I have heard some old people who 
were present, describe what took place at these ridings of the 
marches, called " riding the Hagra." 

They also paid great attention to the sheep-flocks, which con- 
stituted their chief wealth. They had large stone inclosures in 
all their pastures. They made a coarse warm cloth of the wool, 
which is still done by those who have any sheep. In 1 797, the 
sheep- flock in this parish was computed at 10,000. It docs not 
now amount to 1000. The want of them is very much felt. 

1 1 1. — Population. 



ion in ]755, 


. 1412 


1806, . 


. 1997 


1821, . 


. 2d09 


1831, . 


. 2797 


1896, . 


. 3188 



IV. — Industry 
Soil and Produce, — This parish lies in parallel straths, from 

north-cast to south-west. The soil is generally a light-brown, 

black loam, or moorish. Each strath has a bed of primitive blue 

limestone, interspersed with quartz. The subsoil of most of the peaty 

ground, has a crust of iron ore impervious to water, and which at 

first resists the plough. After some years' cultivation, however, 

this ferruginous substance yields to the plough. The subsoil can 

then be turned up and mixed with the moss, greatly improving 

the soil. I have not found the iron ore so hurtful to veiretation 

as might have been supposed. But wherever there is a chalybeate 



TINQWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEESDALE. 65 

spring, it requires to be drained ; for when it runs over the soil, 
it renders it unproductive. The subsoil of most of the meadows 
is blue till, mixed with small stones. This is even found under 
the beds of marl. The hills on the east side of Tingwall parish 
are composed of clay slate, and micaceous schistus, and appear 
capable of cultivation ; those on the west side do not appear so 
capable. Whenever the moss on them is cut, the whole sur&ce 
is covered with large stones of coarse granite and gneiss. 

Near Rova Head, on the north-east part of Tingwall parish* 
Sir Arthur Nicolson, Bart, has discovered a field of fine blue 
slate, which promises to be of great benefit to the country ; the 
gray slate, in use at present, soon splitting when exposed to sua 
and air. 

In some of the meadows, there are quantities of fine shell marl, 
which answers well as a manure, especially for green crops. 

The want of inclosures is much felt : cattle injuring the crops, 
and poaching the land in the winter time. In some places, bow* 
ever, there are good stone inclosures. 

An improved system of agriculture has been introduced, and fa 
many places a regular rotation of crops followed. The commoa 
rotation is, U^year, turnips and potatoes; 2^, big barley, with 
grass seeds ; Qdy hay ; 4thy pasture ; bthj oats. The potato is 
cultivated to a large extent, and in ordinary seasons, Lerwick and 
Scalloway are supplied from Tingwall parish. The potatoes are 
planted in drills, horsc-hoed, and when taken up, put into pits du* 
ring winter. Turnips grow well. The red and green tops and 
Swedish are tried ; but the yellow are preferred. The barley ia 
use is the four and six-sided big. The two-sided has been tried, 
•but does not answer. It is some weeks later in ripening, not so 
productive, and nuire easily injured by the wind. Wheat and rye 
have been attempted, but do not answer, owing to the want of 
sun. Pease do well, unless when we are visited by early frosts, 
but are little cultivated. Flax and hemp have also been reared, 
and grow luxuriantly, but the people do not know how to manage 
them when pulled. 

The old ono'sided plough is still in use. In some parts, the 
Rotheram, or Smairs plough is in noore general use, drawn by 
two horses ; if they are small, assisted by two oxen. Close cartf 
are also much used. The land is in many places cultivated by 
the spade. 

The method of making hay is much improved. It is in general 

SHETLAND. S 



66 SHETLAND. 

spread out as soon as mown, and before night put up in cocks. 
This method is continued for a few days, when it is led home, by 
which means the natural juices and nutritious properties are pre- 
served, as well as the fine smell. A little salt is often mixed with 
it, when building. 

Meadows. — The meadows and boggy land arise from springs 
of water issuing from higher land and running through crevices in 
the limestone. These meadows produce a quantity of coarse 
grass, which is made into hay for fodder for the cattle in winter. 
From these wet grounds, as well as from stagnant waters, there 
arises a mildew, whenever a slight frost takes place, especially on 
the fall of a north wind during the summer or autumn seasons. 
This exhalation or ground-fog is frequently seen to arise from 
these bogs like the smoke of so many fires, until, uniting, it forms 
one dense cloud over all the damp ground. It instantly destroys 
vegetation. The potato crop, in particular, is ruined whenever 
it reaches it. Not only do the stems soon wither, but the poi- 
sonous matter seems to descend into the bulbs, which renders 
Ihem.so unpalatable, that some seasons even the swine will not 
eat them. For the last four years, the crops in all our valleys, 
at a little distance from the sea, have been ruined by early frosts, 
accompanied by mildews. The crops within the vortex of the 
cloud on the lower ground, are often completely destroyed, while 
the upper part of the same field remains unharmed. The oats 
and barley, under the influence of the mildew, assume a dirty white 
appearance. 

The advantages of draining are fully experienced. It is carried 
on in a very sufficient manner by Mr Hay, on his property at Lax- 
firtlf and other places. But it is not to be expected that tenants, 
without either capital or leases, are to follow his example. And 
until bogs are drained, and the stagnant water carried off, the 
saving of the crops must always remain precarious. 

Considerable quantities of waste land have lately been brought 
into cultivation ; some by the tenants themselves. It was for- 
merly the practice for the landlord to mark out a piece on the 
common, and assign it to a tenant, who, on condition of bringing 
it under crop, had it for seven years rent free. But it was seldom 
the tenant could drain, trench, and inclose it properly. 

It has been the practice here, as in all other parishes of Shet- 
land, to cut up the best soil in the common, carrying it home 
either for manure, or to spread under the cattle in the byre. By 



TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEE8DALE. 67 

this destructive practice, the best pasture in the country is not- 
only injured, but in many places completely destroyed. This 
system has been put a stop to by some of the heritors; but unless 
they will all unite, the evil will not cease. It is distressing thus 
to see the best pasture completely destroyed ; and no sooner does 
the grass begin to spring than the ground is immediately robbed 
of its new surface; and this continues until the whole soil is either 
carried away by the tenants, or washed away by the winter rains* 

Roads, — Roads are now so good in some places, that carts can 
drive on them. But they are yet in their infancy ; and the want 
of them is a great bar to all improvements. There are excellent > 
roads about Lax6rth and to the northward, but the middle of the 
parish has been sadly neglected. The soil being open, and carts 
and horses constantly traversing them, the roads that are, are so 
broken up during winter, that people cannot go to church with 
any comfort. These observations refer to Tingwall only ; for in 
Whiteness and Weesdale, there can scarcely be said to be any 
made roads. 

Fisheries. — The Shetlauders subsist chiefly by fishing, without 
which few could pay their rents. The inhabitants in the southern 
parts of this parish begin their spring fishing in February, ventur- 
ing out to sea whenever the weather permits, often risking their 
lives. A few salt their own fish, and dispose of them, when ready 
for the market, on their own account. The price of cod in ge- 
neral is 4s. per cwt. for wet fish ; price of ling, 6s. : two cwt. 
and rather less than a-half of wet make one of dry fish. The 
summer fishing begins about the end of April, and ends about the 
12th of August It is carried on in sloops of from twenty to forty 
tons. More than one-half of the fish caught goes to the men ; 
most of whom about Scalloway have shares in the vessels. Some- 
of them are sole owners. 

The people in these parishes are under no obligation to fish to 
their landlords, or to dispose of any of their product to them. 
They are at liberty to employ themselves in any way they please. 

There was formerly a bounty on Shetland fish, and also on the 
vessels engaged in the fishing, of L. 1 per registered ton. , 

For some years past, the herring-fishing has been extensively 
carried on. The people deliver their herrings at about 7s. per 
cran. I have known one of our boats take 297 crans in a season. 
In 1835, above 15,000 barrels were shipped from Scalloway alone. 
For the three last years, this fishing has not been successful ; and 



68 8HBTLAND. 

the crops having also failed, the people are in a rery reduced 
state. In such circumstances, rents can hardly be paid either for 
lands or houses. Yet, with a very few exceptions, no tenant has 
been turned out of his possession by his landlord. The rents are 
at present all paid in money. There are lt)37 merks land in this 
ministry. The rental is about L.2000. The arable ground will 
measure rather more than 2500 acres. 

E.rports and Imports. — It is impossible to separate the exports 
and imports of this parish from the rest of Shetland. Some of the 
exports of these islands, as extracted from the Custom- House books^ 
arenas follows : — 



Te«rl823. 


Tear 1824. 


Year 182A. 


Fifth, tons, 1866 


1284 


1575 


Oil, barrels, 740 


950 


124.1 


Beef, barrels, 140 


• 


. 433 


Oxen, • 


367 


. 1250 


f beep, • • • 


69 


. 76 


Kelp, tons, 200 


• • 


442 


Ponies, 


92 


140 


Butter, barrels. 


106 


119 


Cbromate of iron, tons 


• • • 


180 



The following are some of the imports; oatmeal, 2152^ bolls; 
tobacco, 4768 lbs.; spirits, 14,830 gallons; coffee, 1419 lbs.; 
snuff, 1073 lbs.; tea, 17,98a 

The late Mr Mouat of Garth states, that, in 1831, there were 
in Shetland 25,000 acres cultivated land, — 400,000, uncultivated, 
-—the rental being from L. 26,000 to L. 28,000. He reckons the 
gross proceeds of lands, fishery, trade, &c. to be L. 300,000 per 
annum.* 

Lakes, — There are many lakes in this parish, abounding with 
fish. The principal ones are the lakes of Tingwall, Asta, and 
Girlsta in Tingwall ; and the lake of Strom in Whiteness. In a 
small holm in Tingwall lake, the Grand Foud held his Court. 
Girlsta lake is celebrated by Torfaeus. He says, it was called 
Geirhildar-vatn, from the daughter of Floke, a northern pirate, 
having been lost in it. f In the lake of Strom, there are the re- 
mains of a small castle, said to have been inhabited by a son of 
the Earl of Orkney, who was afterwards slain, by order of his fa- 
ther, at the standing-stone of Tingwall. X 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Harbours. — This parish is better provided with harbours than 
any in Shetland. To the north, are Deal's Voe, Laxfirth Voe, 

• See Peterkin'* Letter to George Traill, Em. M. P. f See Hibbert. p. 460. 
t SeeHibbert,pp.S68aDd64l. i»wrr», p wv. 



TINQWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEESDALE. 69 

Wadbrister Voe, and Catfritb Voe. To the west, Weesdnle Voe, 
Binnaness Voe, and Whiteness Voe/ To the south, Scalloway 
Voe, and Cliifsound. And to the west of Scalloway, there is a 
cluster of islands belonging to this parish, within all of which there 
is fine anchorage. 

Ecclesiastical State. — There are at present two churches, — one 
at Tingwall, built in 1788, after a long litigation before the Court 
of Session, — and one at Whiteness for the united parishes of 
Whiteness and Weesdale, at which there is a missionary on the 
Royal Bounty. It stands by the loch of Strom, near to the an- 
cient fortification already noticed, part of which was taken down to 
help to build the former church. The present church is a new 
one. The old church was dedicated to St Ola. Near to this, 
lived Sinclair of Strom, famous for his bravery in defending the 
rights of the udallers against the Government in 1530. In this 
contest, the Earl of Caithness was slain. There was formerly a 
church at Weesdale dedicated to " Our Lady." It was much 
(sometimes still is) frequented by people from every corner of 
Shetland, who, by casting in an offering of money at the shrine of 
** Our Lady," believed they would be delivered from any trouble 
they laboured under. There is a tradition regarding the building 
of it, still firmly believed by the superstitious of the islanders. Two 
wealthy ladies, sisters, having encountered a storm off the coast of 
Shetland, vowed to '* Our Lady," that, if she would bring them 
safe to land, they would erect a church to her on the first spot 
they reached. They landed at Weesdale, and immediately com- 
menced building the church. And each morning, when the masons 
came to work, they found as many stones ready quarried as they 
required during the day. One of the elders of the church, who 
lately lived in that neighbourhood, used regularly to gather up 
the offerings, which he put into the poor's box. A church is 
building at Scalloway, for the village and its neighbourhood, the 
walls of which will be finished in a few months. 

Stipend, — Tingwall is celebrated for its process of augmenta- 
tion. The Court of Session declaring that they had no power to 
augment the stipends of the clergy, the incumbent, the Rev. Wil- 
liam Mitchell, appealed to the House of Lords, who gave a deci- 
sion favourable to the clergy. The Court of Session then aug- 
mented it to L.578, Ids. Scots, and 108 lispunds of butter, with 
Lte40 for communion elements. It at present amounts to L.254, 



70 SHETLAND. 

14s. 3<1., with 20 lispuuds butter, and L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion 
elements. 

Education. — The parochial school is placed about the middle 
of Tingwall. There are three schools supported by the So- 
ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge, one in Weesdale, one 
in Whiteness, and one at Scalloway. In the island of Trondra, 
there is one of the General Assembly's schools : and there is 
another at Laxfirth, where Mr Hay has built a commodious school 
and dwelling-house. Owing to the parish being so intersected by 
voes, there are many children who can attend none of these 
schools. 

Poor, — There is a great proportion of poor, especially in Ting- 
wall parish, and there are no funds for their support but the Sab- 
bath-day collection, to which the absentee heritors have contri- 
buted nothing, at least for the last thirty-three years. 

June Id^lL 



PARISH OF NORTHMAVING. 

PRESBYTERY OF BUURAVOE, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. WILLIAM STEVENSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Some suppose that the name Nortlimavine signifies 
North Main, i. e. the north part of the Mainland of Zetland. 
Others imagine, that as the neck of land which divides this parish 
from that of Delting is called Maven, and as the whole parish 
lies to the north of it, it has thence derived its name. 

Extentf 4rc.—lt is a very extensive parish, being 8 miles broad 
from east to west, and 16 miles long from north to south. The 
sea is its boundary on all sides, except where it is joined to the 
parish of Delting by the neck of land referred to above, and which 
is only about an hundred yards broad. 

Topographical Appearances. — The figure of the parish ap- 
proaches near to that of a triangle, and its surface is very irregular 
It is covered with hills, but none of these are of great elevation* 
except Rona'sHill, which, in the former Statistical Account^ 
is said to be 3944 feet above the level of the sea ; but, latelv, it 



NORTHMAYING. 71 

va ascertained to be only about 1500 feet. It is the highest 
hill in Zetland ; and from its summit, under a clear and serene 
sky, which very seldom happens even in the 6nest summer weather, 
a most extensive and beautiful prospect is presented to the view. 

The coast is very irregular, and intersected by a vast number 
of voes or bays. The shores for the most part are high and pre- 
cipitous, except where banks of sand or gravel are formed, and 
composed of rocks of the hardest description. Other materials 
would not long endure the fury of the winter's storm. 

Around the parish, there are many excellent bays or voes. The 
principal, the most extensive, and beautiful, is St Magnus Bay, 
from which many voes run into the interior of the land, where the 
largest vessels may ride at anchor in the most tempestuous wea- 
ther, in perfect safety. Upon the west side of the parish, there is 
Mangaster Voe, Hammer's Voe, Gunister Voe, and Urafirth Voe ; 
but Hillswick is most frequented by vessels, as it is considered a 
very safe harbour. Upon the south and east side, there is Sullom 
Voe, which is said to be eight miles long, and Gluss Voe, and 
Collafirth Voe, and others. Upon the north side of the parish, 
there is Rona's Voe, and Hamnavoe ; the former is said to be six 
miles long, and is narrow ; the latter is an excellent place for 
vessels riding at anchor : but the entrance to it is very small. 

This parish is also surrounded by a great number of small 
islands or holms, and pillars or rocks, situated near the shore, and 
which are very picturesque objects, when viewed from a distance. 
There are the Isle of Eagleshey, the Isle of Niben, the Isle of 
Gunister, the Isle of Stenness, Gluss Isle, the Isle of Uvea and 
Fetheland, and the Island of Lamma, and some others. None of 
these are inhabited at present ; and the pasture of most of them 
is considered excellent, and is famed for producing the richest 
beef and mutton. And upon the most of them, sheep and Cattle 
are kept in winter as well as summer, without shelter, or receiving 
fodder of any kind, even in the most inclement seasons. 

Here, also, many curious rocks may be seen. The most re- 
markable is one situated at the back of Hillswick Ness, and cal- 
led the Drongs. This immense rock rises, almost quite perpen- 
dicular, to the height of an hundred feet from the water, and at 
a distance has the appearance of a vessel under sail. Near to 
this are two very high pillars, of the same kind of rock with the 
Drongs, -and with the stupendous crags upon the shore. And it 
is not improbable that these have all been at one time unit* 



73 SHETLAND. 

ed together, but hare been separated, not by volcanic eruptiont, 
but by the billows of the ocean, which nothing almost can resist, 
during the winter storms. There is another roclc, called Dorholm, 
from a lofty and spacious arch passing through its centre, and 
which has the appearance of a door in certain directions. The 
height of this rock is 76 feet from the water, and the height of 
the arch is said to be 54 feet. To the north of this, there is a, 
rock called the Maiden Skerry, which is very near, but completely 
detached from the shore, and on which, it is reported, the foot 
of man has never trod. Two miles farther north, there is a rock 
of very great height, called the Osse Skerry, through which also 
there is a very large arch, which may be seen at an immense dis- 
tance. Near to Fetheland, there is also a number of very high 
rocks, called the Ramnastacks. All these rocks and holms, and 
others that could be mentioned, differ in their appearance from 
one another, and stand forth amid the waters of the ocean ; con« 
sequently they are excellent sea-marks to mariners in search of a 
harbour or place of safety. 

Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere is very va- 
riable, and very moist. Sometimes, however, the barometer re- 
mains stationary for several days and weeks, and then the weather 
is uncommonly fine. I have seen the barometer as high as 31, 
and as low as 28, in a tremendous gale of wind from the west. 
The barometer always rises when the wind is northerly, even al- 
though it rains heavily. And when it falls suddenly, a very heavy 
sea may be expected, or a gale of wind. 

Rains are frequent, and sometimes very heavy. Some seasons^ 
however, are very dry ; the peat-banks are rent asunder, and the 
grass and crops are injured, even although, in summer evenings, 
there may be thick fogs and heavy dews to refresh the soil. 

The winds are very variable, and the prevailing wind is westerly. 
During the winter season, when storms and tempests prevail, the 
wind often changes from one direction to another, suddenly and 
unexpectedly. Houses are unroofed, crops destroyed, and boats 
and other property lost ; and every season, shipwrecks take place. 
The climate is considered mild and temperate. The summer 
season is very seldom disagreeably or oppressively hot, an equality 
in the atmosphere being preserved by the surrounding waters. 
The winter, sometimes, also is very mild, at other times the cold 
and frost are intense. But although the climate b very damp, it 
is not considered by any means unhealthy ; and warm clothing is 



NORTHMAVINO. 78 

an indispensable article of dress. Rheumatism and asthma are 
very common complaints among the people ; but perhaps these 
may foe attributed as much to the low, miserable, and uncomfort- 
able dwellings in which they live, as to the dampness of the cli- 
mate. Fever of a very infectious nature sometimes occurs ; but 
it is commonly confined to two or three families in the same 
neighbourhood, as no intercourse whatever takes place with per- 
sons so affected, and thus they sometimes die a misertible death 
for want of cleanliness, proper treatment, and medical attendance* 
Pulmonary complaints are also to be met with, but are not com- 
mon. That the climate is, by no means, injurious to health, 
may be inferred from the fact, that, in 1831, there were 
thirty^nine persons in this parish, and chiefly women, upwards of 
eighty years of age. Some of them were above ninety years, and 
one woman died lately said to have been an hundred years old. 

Hydrography. — This parish is nearly surrounded by the sea, 
and voes run into the interior, almost in every direction. Many 
excellent springs are to be found. Very near to the top of Rona's 
Hill, there are several powerful springs, which send forth an im- 
mense quantity of water, in a short space of time. And as these 
springs are more elevated than the tops of the highest hills in 
these islands, where must their source or origin be ? No medi- 
cinal springs, I believe, have hitherto been found. Lochs or 
lakes, some of considerable extent and depth, are very numerous 
in this parish, amounting, it has been said, to upwards of an hun- 
dred, and many of them abounding with most excellent trout. 

Geology. — The direction of the strata of rocks, in this parish, is 
from east to west ; and innumerable are the veins or dikes and fis- 
sures that cut across the strata, and more or less derange and alter 
their original position. The mountains and hills are chiefly com- 
posed of granite, syenite, syenitic greenstone, gneiss, diallage rock, 
porphyry, &c Old red sandstone and limestone, of a coarse descrip- 
tion, are also to be found in different parts of the parish. No fos- 
sil organic remains, or petrifactions, whether belonging to the ani- 
mal or vegetable kingdom, have ever been found, that I have 
heard of; neither are there any ores containing copper, lead^ 
&c. Chromate of iron has been found in certain situations, but 
not of the best quality ; also Scotch pebbles or agates, and garnets. 
Peat moss, for the most part, is the only soil that covers the 
solid rocks referred to above. Along the shore, in favoured spots^ 
the soil is of a light and sandy description, which in good seasons 



74 SHETLAND. 

bears excellent crops ; in other places, it is of a clayey or loamy 
nature, which also produces well. The soil, in general, is very 
thin, even where it is thickened by the application of other earths 
by manual labour ; and it is naturally wet, but draining would be 
a tedious and expensive operation, as the subsoil is so very hard 
and impenetrable. 

Zoology. — In this parish, there are some birds which are consi- 
dered rare. There are several kinds of gulls ; the Bonxie or Skua 
gull is the most rare. Rona's hill, Foula, and island of Unst are 
the only three situations in Zetland where it is to be found. It is 
a beautiful and powerful bird, and is said to have many a hard 
battle with the eagle, which is also an inhabitant of Rona's hilL 
There are also many varieties of wild ducks frequenting the voes 
and lochs, at all seasons of the year ; and also different kinds of 
geese, such as the ember-goose, or great northern diver, and the 
rain-goose or red-throated diver. Hawks, snipes, plovers, curlews 
&C. are often met with. Large flocks of swans are sometimes ob< 
served flying about, but do not take up their residence here. 

In this parish, a great number of cattle are reared every season 
and sold, and also ponies. Some of these are very small, for which 
sometimes high prices have been obtained. The real Shetland 
breed of sheep is hardly now to be found in this parish, except on 
Rona's hill, as it has been crossed by the Cheviot, or black-faced 
breed ; and some think that it would have been better, had such 
breeds never been introduced into the country, as the real Shet- 
land breed is much hardier, and stands the climate better, and the 
food which nature has here provided is coarse, and not very nutri- 
tious. 

Most of the lochs abound with salmon-trout, and great numbers 
are caught every season. Sea-trout is also very abundant, and of 
a large size. The spawning season is in the month of October ; 
but it is thought by some, that they spawn two or three times in 
the year. 

Many varieties of shell-fish are found here, such as oysters, 
spouts, mussels, cockles, and lobsters of a large size. These, in 
seasons of scarcity, afibrd food to the people, but are seldom or 
never used, so long as they are able to obtain fish. 

Botany. — No rare plants, I believe, are to be found in this pa- 
rish. A few are found of a medicinal description ; some are also 
used for dyeing cloth. There are no forests or plantations in this 
^country; but the experiment has never been made, (and the pro- 



NORTHMAVING. '75 

• 

prietors have no inclination or desire to try the experiment,) whe- 
ther large plantations of different kinds of trees, properly walled 
or fenced, to prevent cattle and sheep from injuring and destroy- 
ing them, would succeed or not. Some situations in this parish 
appear favourable for the attempt. In certain places trunks and 
branches of trees are found imbedded in the moss. 

11. — Civil History. 
Land'Owners. — The chief land-owner is Arthur Gifibrd, Esq. 

of Busta, to whom the greatest part of the parish belongs. The 
other proprietors are. Earl Zetland ; Henry Cheyne, Esq. of Tang- 
wick ; Arthur Cheyne, Esq. of Ollaberry ; and Mrs Ogilvy of Gas- 
saburgh. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, for a few years, 
have been kept well and accurately ; but the old records are far 
from being perfect or voluminous, and are not of a very early date. 
At the commencement of the ministry of Dr Jack, in the year 
1765, new session-books were obtained^ and ever since they have 
been more or less regularly kept, according to the qualifications 
and ability of the session-clerk. 

Antiquities. — A huge granite stone appears to have been raised 
upon the top of an hill in this neighbourhood, having a circle of 
smaller stones around the bottom. What deed it commemorates, 
or whether it was raised for a religious purpose, none now can telL 
There are the ruins of several religious houses in this parish. 
The church at Ollaberry has been in ruins, for many years ; also 
the church at North Roe. The remains of a very large Pict's 
house on the west side of the parish are still visible. It appears 
to have been a very strong building, and house of refuge or de- 
fence, being surrounded by water. On the top of Rona's hill, an 
ancient watch-house, as it is called, is still visible, built of a few 
large flat stones ; it might have held six or seven persons. 

Ancient arms have been found several times. A few of the 
people are in possession of the ancient battle-axe, which is care- 
fully concealed in some part of the house, and superstitiously pre- 
served, and it is commonly called a thunderbolt. The writer of 
this paper has one in his possession, which was obtained from a 
parishioner, as a great favour. It is quite entire, and composed of 
a very hard grey stone, — such a species of stone as is not to be 
found in this part of the country. An ancient sword was also 
found, several years ago, by accident, and is at present in posses- 
sion, it is believed, of the Antiquarian Society in Edinburgh. 



76 SHETLAND. 

IIL — Population. 
The population of this parish in 1755, amounted to 1009. In 

1784, it had increased to 1657. And in ISdl, it was very near 
2500. The number of males was 1091, and the number of fe* 
males 1295. This great increase of population is to be attributed 
to the diTiding of the arable lands into smaller portions, for the 
accommodation of those employed in the fishing, and the taking of 
•mall farms from the undivided common, for a similar purpose. Tlie 
population is altogether a rural population. The yearly average 
of births for the last seven years is 60, and of marriages 14 ; but 
of deaths, it is impossible to say, as there are five different burial- 
places in the parish, and no register of such has ever been kept. 

In this parish, there are only two persons or families of indepen* 
dent fortune residing, and there are only two proprietors of land 
of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards. 

At present, there are 400 families in the parish, and about the 
same number of inhabited houses. None are uninhabited, and 
a few are now building. 

The circumstances of a vast number of families are so poor and 
miserable, that cleanliness cannot be observed. On Sundav, how* 
ever, they appear at church clean, and well-dressed. In former 
times, their every-day dress was a coarse cloth of their own manu- 
facture made of wool ; now Scotch and English cloth is generally 
used. 

The people may be said to be generally of an intellectual cha- 
racter ; and, considering the opportunities they enjoy, they may 
be also called a moral and a religious people. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — This parish is supposed to contain 60,000 acres 
of land ; but, as only a small fractional part of the surface has ever 
been measured, it is very difficult to say how many acres are cul- 
tivated, or occasionally in tillage,— perhaps 6000 acres. 'J^he re- 
m«ainder has never been cultivated, and is in a state of undivided 
common ; and it, is difficult to say what number of acres, with the 
profitable application of capital, could be added to the cultivated 
land of the parish. Many suppose, that the only profitable way 
to apply capiUl, in cultivating waste lands in Zetland, is to turn 
these lands into perm?inent pasture, by sowing natural grasses for 
the rearing and feeding of cattle and sheep. 

The state of husbandry, with respect to cultivation and reclaim* 
ing waste lands, is low indeed, except in a very few cases. Even 



NORTHMAVING. 77 

those who are considered good farmers among the people, know 
nothing about draining, or the process of fallowing. Indeed, fal- 
lowing is impossible, — for all the land that the poor people have, 
must be turned over from year to year, for the support of their fa- 
milies, — it is so very small. Perhaps there are not a dozen of 
fields in the whole parish properly drained ; and no lands here 
have undergone the process of irrigation. 

There is, however, a number pf impediments which prevent the 
land from being cultivated and improved as it might be, in this 
country. Very few of the farmers have money or capital, and none 
are willing to lay out in the improvement of the soil, to pay theexpense 
of keeping servants for that purpose, or purchase the necessary 
implements of husbandry. Very few of the farmers have leases. 
They are all, for the most part, tenants at will. They may be 
removed by the landlord or proprietor, when he pleases, and they 
may remove themselves from the lands, when they think proper. 
As they cannot tell, therefore, how long they may occupy the 
lands, they have no spirit or desire for improvement, as they may in 
a short time be possessed by another. Another impediment is the 
want of good enclosures and good roads. As they are, in general, 
tenants at will, and have no leases, they are very careless about 
making good enclosures. There are very few stone fences. For 
the most part, the fences are built of turf, and it requires one of no 
ordinary kind to prevent the Zetland sheep from molesting and 
destroying the crops in their season. Every year, the poor people 
sustain a loss, more or less severe, on this account ; and those 
who have bad fences, require to keep a number of dogs for the pro- 
tection of their property. Again, the ling and herring-fishery is 
another impediment. With a few exceptions, every farmer is a fisher- 
man, and every fisherman a farmer. During the summer season, 
therefore, when the men are at sea, the crops, cattle, &c. are left to 
the care and management of women and children, who, I dare say, 
do the best they can. But it is to be supposed, that, if a division 
of these two employments could be efiected in some way or other, 
the land would be improved and cultivated to better advan- 
tage, than it has hitherto been. 

The Shetland spade is almost the only instrument of husbandry 
used by the people, and three or four or five persons turn over the 
earth, or peat as they call it, at the same time, and they make 
more progress than a stranger would suppose ; but they commonly 
turn it over down hill, so that the earth falls from the spade very 



78 SHETLAND. 

easily. And the consequence », that at the bottom of every plot 
of ground or ridge, the earth, and always the best, has accumu* 
lated to a considerable depth. Ploughing is, at present, very little 
used, and perhaps, as the farms are divided into smaller portions^ 
may get into disuse, almost altogether. When the former Statis- 
tical Account was written, there were twenty- six ploughs in the 
parish ; at present, there are only twelve, and these are drawn by 
oxen or horses, or both, as the people can get them for hire, or 
are able to rear them and keep them for themselves* 

Live-stock. — The sheep and cattle reared or bred are, for the 
most part, of the pure Zetland breed ; but little or no attention 
whatever is paid to their improvement Some of the Scotch kinds 
have occasionally been introduced, but were found not to answer well, 
as they are too tender or soft for the climate. The hardier the 
breed, the better for Zetland. The breed of horses, it is said, has 
fallen off very much, for some years past ; and the reason is, that 
the best of the horses are always sold, and only those of an infe- 
rior description kept for breeding ; and things will never improve 
till the proprietors interfere and enact a law, which they can 
very easily do, that the best horses shall always be kept ; and this 
would, ultimately, be greatly for the interest of both landlord and 
tenant. 

Fishing, — Fishing is the chief occupation of the people, during 
the summer season, and almost all depend on this, and not on the 
produce of the soil, for the payment of rent and other burdens. 
And various kinds of fishing are carried on, in this parish. Cod- fish- 
ing is, at present, almost given up, as it has been a complete failure 
for some years. Herring-fishing has commenced, but it has not hi- 
therto been attended with much success; but, perhaps, this mny 
arise from not having boats of a proper size and construction, and 
nets of the proper dimensions and depth. Ling-fishing has been 
carried on for a great many years, with the most complete success, 
and much wealth has been obtained by it. The boats, however, 
are now very much reduced in number from what they were once ; 
and this is to be attributed to the scarcity of fish, the lowness of 
the price, and the great expense with which the fishing is attended. 
In this parish, there are a great number of excellent stations for 
pursuing the ling-fishing. — Stenness, Hamnavoe, Uyea, and Fo- 
theland. At these stations, the crews and boats assemble about 
the end of May, if the weather is favourable, and remain till the 
beginning of August. In former times, the boats fished near the 



L.dOOO 








1000 








100 








d560 








600 








100 








60 








10 









NOUTHMAVING. 79 

shore, and fish were found in abundance. Now, the fish have left 
the shore, and the boats must sail or pull out to sea forty or fifty 
miles, to reach the fishing-ground ; and, if the weather is fine, they 
remain two or perhaps three nights. During all this time, thd 
fare of the crews is very simple : water or bland, a little spirits, and 
oaten cake. Seldom a season passes but some meet a wateny 
grave, and leave widows and orphans behind. 

Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in 
the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — 

Produce of grain of all kinds. 

Potatoes, turnips, and cabbages. 

Meadow bay, - . - - - 

Ling, cod, tusk, and berrings, 

Beef, bides, and tallow, 

Butter and oil, ..... 

Shetland stockings and gloves. 

Calf, otter, sheep, and seal skins. 

Total yearly value of raw produce, - L.84d0 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is very 
inconvenient for the greater part of the population. It is distant 
from one extremity of the parish twelve miles, from another eight 
miles, from another four miles; and it stands within 60 fathoms 
of the edge of the sea. It was built in the year 1733, and was 
repaired in the year 1764; and in the year 1825 the interior was 
completely renewed. It has accommodation for about 600 per* 
sons, and 70 sittings are set apart for the poor. 

The present manse was built about the year 1768, and repaired 
in 1790. In the year 1821, it also received very extensive repairs 
internally, so that it is amongst the most comfortable manses in 
the country. The glebe contains many acres of land, but how 
many I know not, as it has never been all measured. It is not 
valuable, however, according to its extent, as it is situated in four 
different parts of the parish, all at a considerable distance from 
each other. The present value is about L. 15. The stipend is 
L. 150. 

There are a Methodist chapel and an Independent chapel, 
which are together attended by about 100 members. The Esta- 
blished Church is generally well attended, and the average 
number of communicants is 800 ; the number of families about 
350. 

Since my induction in 1830, no collections have been made for 
religious or charitable purposes except once. The people in ge« 



80 SHETLAND. 

neral are very poor, and all that can be collected on Sundays in 
the year is not sufficient for the maintenance and support of those 
upon the poor's roll* There are no Societies established for reli- 
gious purposes. 

Education. — At present, there are five schools in the parish : 
one parochial school, one Society school, and three supported by 
individual subscriptions only, for three or four months in the win- 
ter season. The branches of education generally taught in each, 
are, reading, writing, grammar, arithmetic, book-keeping, and 
navigation. 

The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L.25, ds. 4d., but he 
has not as yet obtained the legal accommodations ; and the amount 
of school-fees is very small, about L. 4. The salary of the So- 
ciety schoolmaster is L. 15, and the fees and perquisites amount 
to L. 1. The salaries of the other schoolmasters are from L. 1, 
10s. to L.S a quarter; and they lodge with the parents of the 
children. 

It is believed that there are none from six to fifteen years of age, 
who cannot read tolerably well. There are many, however, who 
cannot write, particularly among the females, although some of 
these also are able to produce very good specimens. 

Three additional and permanent schools are absolutely neces- 
sary to give the scattered population of this parish even the ele- 
ments of education. Those schools which are open in the winter 
season for three or four months, are attended with very little bene- 
fit to the children, as they commonly lose in the summer what is 
gained in the winter. And there are three situations in this pa- 
rish, distant each six and ten miles from the parochial school, 
where, if qualified and respectable teachers were obtained, they 
would be attended by sixty or seventy scholars. And as the 
people themselves, being so very poor, are unable to provide pro- 
per accommodations for a qualified teacher, or give him a spitable 
provision, they must wait patiently till the eye of the charitable 
and benevolent is bent towards them, and the hand opened to their 
relief. 

Poor and Parochial Fund*. — There are, at present, 60 persons 
receiving parochial aid, and the sum allotted to each per year is 
from 3s. to 10s. according to age, poverty, and other circumstances. 
The money thus given is to provide clothing only, as the poor, for 
the most part, have a certain quarter or district of the parish as- 
signed them to obtain a livelihood; and they usually go from 



NORTHMAVINO. 81 

house to house, according to their fancy or incHnation, in order to 
obtain a lodging and the necessaries of Hfe. 

The annual amount of funds for the relief of the poor is about 
I^. 24. The yearly collections at the church door is about L. 8, 
and the sacramental collection is about L. 10. Besides, the funds 
are increased to a small extent, by interest received from a small 
sum deposited in the bank, and money on loan. 

There is no other regular mode of procuring funds for the sup- 
port of the poor, than those now mentioned. But should mis- 
fortune befal a family, the elders are sometimes employed in their 
several districts to obtain what they can from the charitable for 
their relief. In this, they sometimes succeed very well, and col- 
lect in small sums, from L. 3 to L. 4, which afford a seasonable 
relief, not only to the afflicted, but also to the poor funds, which 
are kept very low on account of the numerous applications for sup- 
port. 

It does not appear that there is a disposition among the poor to 
refrain from seeking parochial relief, neither do they consider it as 
degrading. A few are to be found, however, who, in the most 
miserable circumstances, would rather starve, than seek the least 
support from any person. Others, again, are not ashamed to seek 
support from the funds, for their friends, — who ought to feel ashamed^ 
when they consider their own circumstances. Their application is 
generally resisted* 

Fairs. — In this parish, there are three fairs or markets held every 
year, at which cattle and horses are bought an4 sold. . In the 
month of May, there is a sale of milk cows, young cattle, and horses; 
and again, in the month of November, for fat cattle and horses. 
These sales are attended by a great number of people, and by 
some from a very great distance. 

Fuel. — Peat is the fuel that is used by all in the parish, and the 
cutting, curing, and flitting home, are, in some cases, attended 
with considerable expense. In two or three genteel families^ 
Scotch or English coal is occasionally used. 

June 1841. 



SHETLAND. 



PARISH OF MID AND SOUTH YELL. 

PRESBYTERY OF BURRAVOE, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. JAMES ROBERTSON, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

This parish is formed by the junction of the Mid and Soutb 
parishes of the Island of Yell, (formerly written Zell,) one of the 
three islands in the Shetland groap, commonly called the NortVr 
Isles. North Yell, the third parish into which Yell is divided, 
being joined to Fetlar, quoad sacra^ constitutes a portion oC 
another ministry. To the ministry of Mid and South Yell are 
joined the Islands of Samphrey and Bigga, both situated to the 
westward of, and distant from, the mainland of Yell about a mile 
and a-half. The former contains six families, the latter, until 
within the last few years, when, it has been converted into a grazing 
island, was generally occupied by eight tenants. It may be re- 
marked, that the teitids of Bigga are paid the one-half to the in- 
cumbent of Yell, the other half to the minister of Delting. To 
Mid and South Yell is also attached the Island of Haseussey, si- 
tuated about a .mile from its east coast, and occupied at present 
by six families. 

Situation^ Extent. — The south extremity of this parish lies in 
60'' 4(X, and its most northern in about 60^ 51' of north latitude. 
It reaches from 18' to 32' west, making its extreme length some- 
what more than 13 miles, and its extreme breadth nearly 7. 

Boundaries, — On the east side, it is bounded by Colgrave Sound, 
which separates it from Fetlar ;^ on the south, by Lunnafirth, 
which runs between it and the parish of Lunnasting ; on the west, 
by Yell Sound, on the opposite shores of which are the parishes 
of Delting and Northmavine. Colgrave Sound averages three 
miles in breadth, Lunnafirth four, and Yell Sound six miles. In 
Yell Sound, the current is perhaps the strongest of any on the 
north coast of Shetland^ its rapidity at spring-tides being eight or 
x)ine miles an hour. 

The Island of Yell lies in a direction nearly north-east by. 



MID AND SOUTH YELL. 83 

north, along the east side from the Ness of Burravoe to Burra- 
ness in North Yell, when it acquires an inclination of about 12° 
in a more northerly direction. From the Brough of Cuppasetter, 
situated on the south-west corner of the island, to the " Rock of 
the Birreir," a distance which embraces nearly one-half of its 
west coast, the line is also north-east by north. After pass* 
ing this rock, the coast takes a more easterly direction, inclin- 
ing thereto from 17° to 20°; thus reducing the north end of the 
island to nearly one-half of its south end and middle breadths. 
Two ranges of hills, of from 200 to 400 feet in height, extend al- 
most the whole length of the island, and in a direction nearly pa- 
rallel to each other. These are occasionally intersected by others, 
running in a direction east and west ; and between which, are two 
excellent harbours, viz.Midyellvoe and Bastavoe, this last men- 
tioned, being in North Yell. 

Mid Yell voes, formed by the Ness of Lussetter on its south sidOf 
and the Head of Hindigarth on its north, runs about a mile and a- 
half west, on a bed of clay and shell sand, affording easy access to 
vessels of any tonnage, and of sufficient extent to moor a fleet of 
an hundred sail, in from six to ten fathoms water. 

Another inlet, called Whalefirth voe, approaches to that of Mid 
Yell voe from a north-west direction, so as nearly to form a junction 
with it ; there being but a few hundred yards between the pools 
at high water. As the intervening space consists entirely of peat- 
moss resting on a substratum of blue clay, a canal might be cut at 
a very trifling expense, which the influx and reflux of the sea would 
in a short time convert into a channel, through which boats could 
pass at any time of the tide. Were a communication between 
the seas on the east and west side of Yell thus opened up, there 
can be little doubt that the value of a locality in the vicinity of 
either of the voes just mentioned, would be considerably increased 
from the additional quantity and variety offish that would be there- 
by introduced into them, and the facility afforded to all the inha- 
bitants of that district, of prosecuting the various kinds of fishing, 
on whatever side of the island their endeavours were likely to be 
attended with the greatest success. 

Along the whole of the east side of Yell, the land is moderate- 
ly low, and in many places sandy, and there is scarcely more than a 
mile of coast, where a boat cannot land in ordinary weather. On 
the south side of the island, there are also the two good harbours 
of Burravoe and Hamnavoe, about a mile distant from each other* 



84 SHETLAND. 

But on the west side, after advancing about eight miles to the 
northward, the shore becomes bold and precipitous ; so that from 
Westsandwick to Gloup, the most northern point in the island, 
there are only two places on a coast stretching upwards of eleven 
miles, where a landing can be effected, namely, Whalefirthvoe, 
already mentioned, and the dale of Lumbister, and at this last 
place only when the weather is fine, it being, apparently, a mere 
track worn in the soft stone by the action of a stream of water 
which passes over it. 

Although situated nearly in the sixty-first degree of north lati- 
tude, the air in winter, uniformly moist, is temperate to a degree 
to which those accustomed to the cold prevalent at that season in 
the interior of Great Britain are altogether strangers, and snow in 
consequence seldom lies above a day or two at a time. 

In a note taken at the manse of Yell, December 24th 1832, 
occur the following remarks : " The turnips are this day as green 
as they were at Michaelmas. The rye-grass among bear-stubble 
measures from eight to ten inches of green blade; and among the 
year old rye grass, is the daisy everywhere seen in bloom.*** To 
these general remarks in reference to the mildness of Shetland 
winters, the history of those of 1835-36, 1836-37, and of 1837- 
38, forms a striking contrast. In each of the two first mentioned 
winters, there were three different falls of snow, the average dura- 
tion of which was eleven days, while, during the last mentioned, 
the snow which fell on 6th January had not entirely disappeared 
by 1st of April. At no time, however, during this period was the 
thermometer observed to range lower than 1 1° below the freez- 
ing point. Thus 21<' may be stated as the greatest degree of cold 
ever known in Yell, and 69'' as the highest range ever attained by 
the thermometer in summer. The westerly are the prevailing 
winds ; and during the months of October, November, and Decem- 
ber, there frequently occur tremendous thunder storms, most ge- 
nerally at night. This fact, as well as some others which might 
be mentioned, would seem to establish an identity between the 
electric fluid and the aurora borealis, which, from the month of 
October to March, is seen almost every clear night, moving from 
one quarter of the heavens to the other, in all its shapes and shades 
of endless variety. 

As might be expected from the prevailing moisture of the cli- 
mate, rheumatism is a common complaint among all classes. And 
from the same cause, perhaps, in connexion with the circumstance 



MID AND SOUTH YELL. 85 

of there being but few families of the labouring classes altogether 
free from a constitutional taint of scrofula, those who are carried off 
Dy pulmonary complaints are more numerous than are the victims of 
any other single disease. For the cure of this fatal disorder no- /^ 
thing, even at the present day, is deemed so effectual as the / ) ^CJ^ 
Royal touch ! And as a substitute for the actual living finger of ^ 
royalty, a few crowns and half-crowns of the coinage of the first NC-^^^ 
Charles, carefully handed down from father to son, have been ef- 
fectual both here, and in every other parish in Shetland, towards 
removing this disease, and that to an extent which may appear 
somewhat incredible to many whose minds, in reference to the heal- 
ing virtue still inherent in royalty, may be in a more sophisticated 
state, than those of her Majesty's subjects in this latitude. Be 
this as it may, there are few localities in Shetland in which a living 
evidence is not to be found of one said to have been ^' cured by 
the coin," and who would instantly be pointed at as a sufiicient 
evidence to warrant confidence in its efiicacy, should it happen 
that a doubt at any time rested thereon. 

Hydrography. — All the springs fall under the denomination of 
perennial, and the temperature of those least affected in quantity 
by the summer drought, is from 44° to 45°, their water being not 
unfrequently impregnated with iron. 

Geology, — In Yell the prevailing strata are gneiss and mica* 
ceous rocks, traversed by veins of granite, and occasionally having 
masses of quartz and whinstone imbedded in them. The direc- 
tion of the strata is nearly north and south, their dip being from 
35° to 90°. 

The only ore ever found in Yell is that of iron; and in no 
known instance, has it been found in a shape different from bog 
iron ore. In Yell, as well as in several other parishes in Shetland, 
and in such situations as the banks of burns, or that of the sea 
side, there is frequently to be met with under a mass of peat moss, 
sometimes not less than 10 feet deep, and immediately above the 
prevailing rock, a layer of fine^rich loam, from one to two feet 
thick, on the top of which are always found the remains of wood, 
generally birch and occasionally oak. 

The soil throughout Yell partakes, more or less, of the quality 
of moss, mixed either with clay or particles of the decayed rock, 
on which it rests ; and in no instance is it found to be sandy, un« 
less where sand has been thrown up by the violence of the sea 
during winter, and carried over it by the action of the winds* 



86 SHETLAND. 

Such is the depth of peat moss in the interior of Yell, that, if 
equally distributed over the surface thereof, it would afford a 
covering of not less than three feet in thickness to the whole 

island. 

Zoology.— It has sometimes been doubted whether salmon are 
to be found on the coast, or in the lochs in Shetland. This 
doubt admits of an easy solution, as no fewer than twenty-one 
were caught, at one drag of a net on the sands of Vatsetter in this 
parish in 1831. All that have been caught here are of a small 
size, none having been seen exceeding nine and a half pounds. 
This, however, is not to be wondered at, when the destructive 
habits of the seal, in reference to this fish, are taken into account, 
»**half a score of which have been seen guarding the creek, through 
which the fish had to pass before getting into fresh water, which 
they generally attempt from 20th July to the middle of August* 
The sea-trout, which are most abundant here, are somewhat later 
in their habits, and never seek to get into fresh water before the 
middle of August or beginning of September. 

As a shell-fish, important in an economical point of view, the 
common cockle ought not to be overlooked in the statistics of Yell ; 
for often, in times of scarcity, has it been the means of saving 
the lives of hundreds of its inhabitants. As an example of the ex** 
tent to which the cockle was sought after, during the scarcity 
which prevailed in 1 837, it may be mentioned, that, in the month 
of May of that year, 1 J 5 barrels of cockle-shells were collected 
from 10 families, who had been reduced to the necessity of living 
on the fish thereof during the preceding spring : And at that time, 
there were more than 50 families in the parish, — from whom a 
proportionate quantity could have been obtained. 

Yell, like other districts, the inhabitants of which live by fish- 
ing, has often been, nay, it may be said, yearly is exposed to sad dis- 
asters from loss of life at sea. But of all the recorded misfortunes 
of this kind, none can he compared with that which occurred in 
the month of July 1832. On that occasion, four boats were lost, 
and of their whole crews, which numbered thirty men, only three 
were saved. These were almost all men in the prime of life, and 
left behind them 23 widows, and 61 fatherless children under four- 
teen years of age, to mourn their untimely fate. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land-owners. — The principal landlords in the Mid and South 
Yell are, John Ogilvy, Esq. of Gossaburgh and Quarff, and Ro- 



MID AND SOUTH YELL. 87 

bert Bruce, Esq. of Burravoe, both resident ; aod, with the except 
tion of Charles Ogilvy, Esq. of Seafield, and Captain C. Mouat 
of Garthi who are non-resident, there is not another, of all the 
28 heritors connected with the parish, whose income therefrom 
amounts to 1^.50* 

Parochial RegUters. — The parochial registers extend no far- 
ther back than to the beginning of the eighteenth century, and, 
though kept with tolerable accuracy, contain but little, and that 
little, perhaps, of still less importance. 

Antiquities. — In so far as can now be traced, no religious houses 
have, at any time, existed in this parish ; and beyond a few Pictish 
buildings, and some traces of the dwellings of the Shetland abori- 
gines, in which last have been found some stone adzes and knives^ 
with drinking- cups, lamps, and hammers of the same materials,— 
there is little now existing either to excite the inquiry of the anti- 
quary, or to speak to its present inhabitants of the deeds of other 
years. 

III. — Population. 
The population is exclusively rural, and amounts to 1853. 

Of these, there are under 15 vears of age, . 701 

between i5 and 90, 
aO and 50, 
50 and 70, 
above 70 years of age. 
The average number of births in seven years has been 

marriages. 
Of bachelors and widowers above 50 years of age, there are 
Unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age. 

There are 2 fatuous individuals, and 7 in a state of lameness 
throughout the parish. 

Besides the two principal resident heritors, there is not another 
of independent fortune in the parish. 

The inhabitants are, in general, a quiet and orderly class of peo- 
ple ; but although acts of gross and open immorality would be 
branded by common consent, yet it must be confessed, that other 
immoralities are practised to an extent which calls forth an ad- 
mission from all quarters, that some remedial steps ought to be 
taken. The less flagrant immoralilies now alluded to can, per- 
haps, be traced to no cause so directly, as to the want of an early 
training of the young to the observance of moral and religious du- 
ties, by means of the discipline of public schools, — a tuition to 
which the inhabitants of Yell have been but little accustomed* 
For until within the last sixteen years, such a thing as a parochial 
school was unknown within its bounds ; and when established in 



556 




360 




246 




89 




• 


42 


• 


11.6 




12 


• 


69 



B8 SHETLAND. 

1822, it was placed in a district to which not one-eighth part of 
the parishioners could have access. Without investigating minute- 
ly the other causes that may have co-operated, to prevent attend- 
ance on the parochial school, it appears that, for a series of years, 
the quarterly average number of scholars has not exceeded ten, if 
it has reached that number. 

To give any thing like efficiency to the means of education through- 
out this widely extended ministry, four additional schools would be 
tei:)uired* Were the means of obtaining an early and a solid edu- 
cation extended to a people certainly not void of natural abilities, 
nor of acuteness to discern in what direction their interest lies, a 
stimulus would be given thereby to industry and activity in those 
departments of labour in which they are engaged, and in a practi- 
cal knowledge of which, they no doubt rank behind those who are 
similarly employed elsewhere ; while the moral and religious 
aspect of society could not fail to be improved. 

To the moral and religious improvement of the parishioners, the 
two principal resident heritors have not been inattentive. By Mr 
Bruce of Bnrravoe, a disposition has been granted to the minister 
for the time being, of six acres of ground for a glebe to an as- 
sistant minister in South Yell, with a right of pasturage on the 
common during summer to as many cattle as the straw raised on 
that ground, can fodder in winter. By Mr Ogiivy of Quarff, as- 
surance lias been given of his readiness to provide the necessary 
accommodations for a teacher, so as to secure a salary of L.25 
per aniuim, at present promised to the parish by the Assembly's 
CommiUee. Neither of these can be considered slight benefac- 
tions, when the heavy assessments of late made on the heritors of 
this parish, in order to repair the machinery of the parochial eco- 
nomy therewith connected, are taken into view. For, at the end 
of December 1838, the heritors, in building two churches capable 
respectively of accommodating 500 and 380 sitters, and in repair- 
ing the manse, contributed upwards of L.1800 since 1831, and 
that from a rental which certainly does not exceed L. 1300 ! 

IV. — Industry. 

The industry of the inhabitants is alternately directed towards 
the cultivating of their crofts, and prosecuting the small, great line, 
or herring-Bshing; in which all, with the exception of a few shop- 
keepers, and handicraftsmen, are exclusively engaged. 

The number of statute acres is 37,000, of which about 4000 
are enclosed ; 1500 of these last are at present, or have been cul- 



MID AND SOUTH YELL. 89 

tivated ; and the remaining 33,000 acres are in pasture, to which 
the tenants renting the arable and enclosed lands have a connmon 
right of pasture efieiring to their respective rents. Perhaps the 
half of the enclosed grass grounds might be profitably cultivated 
with a view to improving them as pasture ; while almost the whole 
of the unenclosed common might be rendered more valuable by a 
regular system of surface draining, which, wherever attempted, 
has had the effect of ameliorating both the soil and grass. But a 
want of capital is the great bar to improvements of this or any 
other description ; and, with the exception of what has been done 
by Mr Bruce of Burravoe, and by Mr Ogilvy of Quarff, little has 
this remote district been benefited by the modern discoveries in 
agriculture. 

No attention has hitherto been paid to the selection of proper 
breeding stock, either from the native black-cattle, sheep, or 
horses. This is the more to be regretted, because the native are 
the animals best adapted to the climate and food, and because no 
other description of cattle bred in Shetland will ever be so much 
sought after for the south country market. No animal, in propor- 
tion to its size of bone, has ever been known to carry a greater 
weight of fat ; and compared with it, our present mongrel breeds 
are an ugly gaunt-looking race, utterly unfit for Shetland keep, 
and assuredly never to be sought after by those who know the 
points which characterize a good animal.* 

Produce. — Perhaps the average gross amount of product may be 
thus stated : 

Valueof bear and oats raised, 

900 tons potatoes, at L.l, 5s. 
meadow iiay, 

grazing 1800 cattle, at Ss. 6d. • • 

200 do. sold at L.2, lOs. 
grazing 10,000 sheep, at 8d. 
wool of do. at Is. each, 
500 old sheep sold or used, 58. 
1000 lambs at Is. sold or used, 
900 horses grazed summer and winter, at 10s. 
20 do. sold, at L.2, 10s. 
250 swine killed, at 10s. 
ling, tusk, and cod caught, 
herrings do. 

small fish caught for family use, and oil sold from same. 
Amount of masons' wages, at 28., Wrights', at 2a. 6d , and la- 
bourers'. Is. 
seamen's wages in the Greenland and merchant vessels, 



• Since the above was written the price of black-cattle has risen 50 per cent., 
owing to the great facility of transport now afforded by steam.— June 23, 1841. 



L2300 








1125 








150 








315 








300 








323 


6 


8 


500 








125 








62 


12 





150 








50 








125 








500 








600 








360 








140 








s, 450 








L.7575 


18 


8 



90 SHETLAND. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

The site of the parish kirk of Mid Yell is as well selected for 
the convenience of the parishioners as can be in a parish, the inha- 
bitants of which are so widely scattered, — four-fifths thereof being 
within a distance of four miles, the remainder being from four to 
six miles distant. 

The South Yell kirk, now in progress, is rather better situated, 
since, with the exception of fifteen families, at about four miles dis* 
tance, none of the other families in that parish are distant more than 
three miles. In a parish, however, the surface of which is, in win- 
ter, one continued mossy swamp, and over which there is neither 
road nor bridge, it is only in fine weather, that any thing like good 
attendance can be either given by, or expected from, those at more 
than two miles distance from church. 

There is a small meeting-house built by the Wesleyan Me- 
thodists in South Yell, and capable of containing 200 hearers. 
Connected with this chapel, there are about fifty members; be- 
sides which, there are eight in the Independent communion in 
Mid Yell. Deducting these, the remaining 1795 may be consi- 
dered as attending the Established Church, and of whom the 
average number of communicants are 500. 

For several years past, there has been a missionary on the 
Royal Bounty in South Yell ; and it is expected, if a grant be 
given for the extension of the Church, in those parishes where the 
teinds are exhausted, a salary will be allowed for an additional 
minister in South Yell. 

The manse was rebuilt, and new offices built, under the inspec- 
tion of the late minister, at an expense to the heritors of L. 380, 
in the year 1807. The sum for which decreet was granted against 
them, was L.4d0 ; but of this sum, L. 50 are still due the repre- 
sentatives of the late Mr Finlayson, by those now representing the 
then proprietors of Sound. In 1633, the manse was repaired, 
and new byre built, and the other offices repaired, which, together, 
have been estimated, by competent judges, to amount in value to 
one-third of the accommodations originally afforded by heritors, 
under the superintendence of the late minister. These repairs 
are represented by heritors to have cost upwards of L. 300, under 
the special superintendence of one of their own number. 

The stipend of Mid and South Yell is about L. 143, paid by the 
heritors, the remainder being received from the Exchequer. 

The glebe, on which the present incumbent has sunk, in im- 

4 



MIO AND SOUTH YELL. 91 

provementSy upwards of L. 190, may be considered to a future mi- 
nister worth L. 30 per annum ; but it cannot be said to be worth 
to its present occupant, more than L. 16 yearly. 

The annual collections average in amount L. 10, which is 
generally divided among 30 paupers. But in Yell, as in most 
other parishes in Shetland, the system prevails of assigning the 
most indigent, what is called a quarter, the inhabitants of which 
either make the pauper itinerate among them, or contribute a 
proportion of food towards his or her support, effeiring to the 
quantity of land rented by each tenant in that quarter. There is, 
generally speaking, but little disposition among the poor to refrain 
from seeking parochial aid. 

MiSCELLANEODS OBSERVATIONS. 

Spade husbandry is that universally adopted by the tenant 
here : it can be got executed, by those having occasion to em- 
ploy labourers, at the rate of 8s. the statute acre ; supposing one 
man employed for every two women, the former at Is. and the 
latter at 6d. a-day. This is unquestionably the cheapest, the 
most efficient in producing a return, and, in the majority of loca- 
lities in Yell, the only mode of culture that can be adopted, on 
account of the steepness, the unevenness of the surface on the 
rocks, with which the land is not unfrequently interspersed. 

Considerable addition has been made to the cultivated land, in 
the memory of the present generation ; and, in many instances, 
it has been more than doubled. About 1 790, and even at a later 
period, when the population did not exceed two-thirds of the pre- 
sent number, it was considered a favourable year indeed, wheo 
the produce of the harvest enabled the people to subsist, until the 
next year's seed was put into the ground. Now, on the contrary, 
with the exception of 1835-36-37, which may be ranked as years 
of famine, no active and providenttenant has, for more than twen- 
ty years past, found it necessary to buy meal for his family before 
the beginning of August. 

The tenants have an utter aversion, generally speaking, to take 
leases, from a mistaken notion, that it is the landlord, and not the 
tenant, who is thereby benefited. And even when they do enter 
into leases, they have been known to object to make improvements, 
which, before the expiry of their tacks, would have remunerated 
them tenfold for all their labour, — so little are the advantages 
arising from this kind of covenant between landlord and tenant 
understood here. 



92 SHETLAND. 

Perhaps the greatest drawback to the improyement of Yell, 
and it may be of Shetland generally, and which, more than any 
thing else, operates as a drag on the resources of the landlord, is 
the small portions into which the land is let off to accommodate 
the present overgrown fishing population. For as each tenant, 
whether paying L. 1, 5s* or L. 5, must have a house to live in, 
built at an original cost of L. 15, and, upon an average, not last- 
ing more than twenty-five years, the heritor who has an income 
of L. 400 a-year, has at least an hundred houses on the property 
from which he draws this rent Hence he is under the necessity 
of building four new houses annually, at an original cost of L. 60, 
and is exposed to the daily annoyance and expense of keeping the 
remaining ninety*six in a state of habitable repair, which the oc- 
cupants, being tenants at will, never consider themselves obliged 
to do. 

Until this system can be got rid of, which, it is likely, will be 
attempted, when the divisions of the commons, now in progress, 
are completed, there is but a slender prospect either of the tenant 
bettering his circumstances, or of the landlord increasing the value 
of his estate. 

That 33,000 acres of pasture, 1500 acres of arable, and 2500 
acres of inclosed grass land, should only produce an average rent 
of scarcely 8d. per acre, can only be attributed to' the distance at 
which they are situated from a market for their produce. But it 
is hoped that the now regularly established communication week- 
ly, by steam, between Shetland and the coast of Scotland, will 
tend to open up a ready market for the various kinds of stock, ex- 
cite attention to the selecting and improving the native Shetland 
breeds, whether of black-cattle, sheep, or horses, and in the end 
greatly improve the circumstances both of landlord and tenant. 

Draim up 1838— Revised June 1841. 



PARISH OF DUNROSSNESS. 

PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. DAVID THOMSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

This parish occupies the greater part of the southern peninsu- 
la of Shetland. It includes the parishes of Sandwick and Cun- 
ningsburghy now annexed to it ; also the Fair Isle. 

Mineralogy » — There was an attempt made to work a mine of 
copper on Pit61l, some specimens of the ore having been sent to 
the southward, and having attracted the attention of a mining com* 
])any. Some shafts were also sunk at Sand-lodge, in Sandwick pa« 
rish. But these attempts, not proving successful, have been aban- 
doned for many years. 

II, — Civil History. 

There was a temporary residence in this parish for the Earls 
of Orkney, when they came to the country ; but the castle of 
Sculloway was their principal dwelling. 

Parochial Registers. — Parochial registers are kept, of the bap- 
tisms and marriages of persons connected with the Established 
Church; but Dissenters do not register their baptisms; and only 
their marriages are proclaimed in the Established Church. 

III. — Population. 

Amount in 1801, - 9201 

181), . 3498 

1821, . 3796 

1831, . 4405 

IV. — Industry. 
Dunrossness is fertile in the production of bear or big, and black 
oats; considerable quantities of both, and also of potatoes of good 
quality, are annually carried to Lerwick, and sold to the inhabi- 
tants there, at reasonable prices. The standard weight of the 
lispund, of Norwegian origin, is 32 lbs. English ; but it is the 
custom to give 36 lbs. or more. 



94 SHETLAND. 

No natural crops of clover aod rye-grass spring here, except on 
a small spot at Sumburgh. 

The island of Colsay carries a good number of sheep of the 
Ensriish breed : and until the scab invaded the island of St Ni- 
nians, it carried a considerable number of sheep of a large kind. 
It is at present devoted to the grazing of cattle. 

There has happened a very heavy loss in this parish, of a snug 
estate that belonged to Alexander Sinclair, Esq. of Brow, all the 
most valuable part thereof having been blown over with sand, and 
only some small patches, called outsets or pendicles, now remain- 
ing. A part of the estate of Sumburgh, which was surrounded 
with sand, like an oasis in a desert, and which carried a good flock 
of sheep, is now also so much overspread with sand, that it has not 
one upon it And a small inlet, which could formerly admit small 
craft, is now filling up very fast by sand blowing from the waste. 

Fishing, — Mr Bruce of Sumburgh's tenants are allowed to cure 
their own fish, which are delivered to him at a certain stipulated 
price, in their marketable state, and of course his lands are let at 
an advanced price. But other heritors who have the fish given 
them by their tenants in a green or uncured state, let their lands 
at an inferior price. 

A herring-fishing has, for some years past, been carried on, 
partly in Dunrossness, but chiefly in the parishes of Sandwick and 
Cunningsbnrgh, where a number of large boats have been fitted 
out at great expense. This fishing was begun by the tenants of 
Mr Bruce of Sumburgh, under his patronage ; and by his resid • 
ing at Sand Lodge, in the vicinity of the herring stations, he has 
given them great encourngement. Three or four brigs or sloops 
arrive annually at Levenwick bay, from Rothsay, and receive the 
herrings as they are caught, at a stipulated price per cran. Mr 
Bruce of Bigtown is, with his tenants, embarked in a similar enter- 
prise. 

Except at Quendale, Bigtown, and Sumburgh, where ploughs 
are used, the tenants, having but small portions of land, cultivate 
their ground with small spades. In Sandwick and Cunningsbnrgh, 
a few ploughs are used, drawn by small horses. 

Very little kelp is manufactured in this parish. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Some years ago, there was a very handsome, substantial, and 
expensive light-house, erected on the summit of Sumburgh Head, 
the most southerly promontory in Shetland. The tower is ele- 



DUxNROSSNESS. 9^ 

gant, and the mansions of the keepers very neat. The expense, 
I believe, was about L. 40,000. It is visited annually bv Robert 
Stevenson, Esq. civil-engineer ; and a yacht comes twice in the 
year, with stores. 

Ecclesiastical State, — There are some persons of the Baptist 
persuasion here, but immersion seems not to be generally attrac- 
tive : and there are, also, a good number in both parishes, of 
Weslevan Methodists. 

The stipend, by decreet of valuation, is L. 200, besides a sum 
for communion elements ; and the glebe is reckoned good, the 
soil being of excellent quality: it contains 13 acres of arable 
ground, and 14 or 15 acres of meadow ; but the pasture is not va- 
luable. 

Education. — This parish is much in want of proper schools for 
the education of the rising generation, there being, besides the pa- 
rochial, only some private ones kept by young men, employed by 
the parents at their own expense, and that only for a part of the 
year, — they betaking themselves to the fishing in summer, as what 
they earn from teaching does not compensate them. The paro- 
chial school is stationed in the parish of Sandwick. In Cun- 
ningsburgh, there are a school appointed by the Society for Pro- 
pagating Christian Knowledge, and a Sabbath evening school. 
There are few or none of the people who cannot read. 

Libraries, — There are two parochial libraries, instituted lately^ 
one in Cunningsburgh, and the other in Sandwick parish. There 
is also one in Dunrossness. 

FueL — No large tracks of moss are here. Had that been the case, 
peats would not have needed to be transported from a great dis- 
tance to the southern extremity of the parish, a distance of four 
or five miles, upon small ponies, by which great expense is incurred* 

Fair Island. — This island is about 3 miles long and 2 broad. 
It lies about midway betwixt Orkney and Shetland. On the 
north-east corner of the island, there is a small harbour ; but ves- 
sels do not frequent it. There is a large peninsula called Bounness,. 
which feedsa considerable flock of sheep of the south country breed, 
and is fenced with a high stone dike across the isthmus. The- 
houses are all on the southern part of the island. To the north 
part of the cultivated ground, there is a fence of feal, which shut» 
it in and protects it from sheep. The names of the towns or ham* 
lets are, Shirva, Leogh, Bousta, Gelah, Seutter, and Taing. By 



96 SHETLAND. 

the census taken this year, (1841,) there were 35 inhabited 
houses, occupied by about 35 families : and there were 1 19 males 
and 1 13 females,^nall 232. A number of years ago, a few families 
removed to Orkney, — the island being rather overstocked with 
inhabitants. There are 96 merks of land in the island, besides a 
few outsets not long occupied. The people had found the prose- 
cution of the ling and tusk-fishing at a distance from the land, not 
profitable ; and they now confine themselves to the catching of 
seath, that being not so dangerous and expensive an operation as 
the former. Of this about forty tons, in the dried state, have been 
generally transported to the Lieith market ; which, during the ex- 
istence of the Government bounty, together with the oil produced, 
brought a good return. No fish is disposed of to straggling ves- 
sels that may appear on the coast, the fishermen being bound to 
deliver their products to the tacksman. What feu*duty is now 
paid from the island to Lord Dundas I am not aware ; but, instead 
of L.34 Scotch, formerly paid to the minister as teinds, L.14, 
Os. lOd. Sterling has been awarded by decreet of the Court, as his 
proportion of L.200, the stipend of the ministry at present. There 
remain some unexhausted teinds, which will raise the stipend 
to nearly L.dOO per annum, when a fresh augmentation shall take 
place. 

The number of boats has considerably increased since the time 
of the last Statistical Account ; and they all lie on the south side 
of the island, in a creek, where a good many of the cod-fishing 
sloops belonging to the mainland take shelter, when the weather is 
unfavourable. 

The people are sober and industrious ; and most vigorous 
and expert rowers. The Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
ledge has granted a salary to a schoolmaster for his exertions in 
conducting the Sabbath evening school in this island. 

June 1841 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 

PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. 

THE REV. JOHN BRYDEN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Though the Islands of Hialtland, variously named Hethland, 
Schetland, Shetland, Shetland, or Zetland, were assigned in wad- 
sett to the Crown of Scotland nearly five hundred years ago, little 
more is known of them, generally speaking, than if they had re- 
mained, to the present day, a pertinent of the Crown of Denmark. 

That the present inhabitants are of Scandinavian origin, many 
circumstances tend to prove. The historian, Torphseus, asserts, 
that these islands were discovered about three hundred and eighty* 
five years before the birth of our Saviour; but that they might 
have been inhabited from a much earlier period. ' 

When Harold Harfagre, King of Norway, landed in Shetland 
in 875, he found ** Papae;" but these might have presided over 
the worship of Odin, and directed the rites paid to the Scandina- 
vian god. It is probable that the Christian religion was not at- 
tempted to be introduced among the natives till about the begin- 
ning of the tenth century ; and even then, its progress was very 
slow. For the Earls, who ruled with despotic sway, and who seU 
dom acknowledged any superior, longer than they could renounce 
their allegiance with impunity, uniformly opposed the introduction 
of Christianity ; till a circumstance took place, about the middle 
of the tenth century, which brought about its reception and esta- 
blishment. The King of Norway happening to touch at the 
islands, invited the reigning Earl and his family on board of his 
ship, with the determination, it would appear, of converting him 
and his people to the Christian faith, by argument or force. The 
invitation being accepted, the King gave the Earl his choice, 
either to embrace the Christian religion, and be baptised, and thus 
secure his friendship, or to have his Earldom wrested from hiniy 

SHETLAND. G 



98 SHETLAND. 

and himself and family put to the sword. The Earl, for a titr.e, 
Jiesitated as to the choice he should make ; but, seeing the sword 
about to be plunged into the breast of his son, parental tender- 
ness overcame his scruples; he renounced the worship of Odin, 
professed himself a Christian, and was baptised. His people soon 
after followed his example. 

Shetland, while subject to the Danish governioent, was govern- 
ed, in all civil matters, by a judge called ^^ the Grand Foude %** 
and hence the country was designated by the name of a *^ Foud- 
rie." This Foudrie was divided into a number of small districts, 
over each of which was appointed a iubordinate foude, or magis* 
trate. Tu him was committed the power of judging and deciding 
in cases of smaller moment, of keeping the peace and of regu- 
lating weights and measures. In the discharge of these duties, be 
was assisted by inferior officers, called ^' Ranselmen," and " Law- 
rightmen." Whoever considered themselves aggrieved by the de- 
cision of the local foude and his officers, had the power of appeal 
-to the Grand Foude, who, at his ** lawting," assisted by the " Udal- 
men," made laws, and determined in all cases of life and death. 

After the islands were annexed to the Crown of Scotland in 
1470, in the reign of James III., their government was usually be- 
stowed on some Court favourite, who made the most of their preca- 
rious possession, and whose sway was generally marked with cruel- 
ty and oppression. Though these rulers were frequently changed, 
the poor islanders for a long time benefited little by any change 
which took place. And, while writhing under the yoke of the op- 
pressor, the knowledge that they were deprived of the means of 
redress, rendered that yoke still more galling. Even when sub- 
ject to a milder sway, the acts of former oppressors continued to 
be felt; and many exactions, equally unjust in themselves, and 
contrary to express stipulations, were made, and continued to be 
made; these, by prescription, having now become legal demands. 

Name, — These united parishes seem to have taken their name 
from the two bailiwicks or courts of justice held in them ; the one 
on the Ting or Taing, (a neck of land jutting into the sea, in the 
vicinity of Sand), hence Sand's Ting; the other similarly situated 
near Aith ; hence Aith's Ting. 

Under the chief foude or judge, there were inferior foudes or 
judges, whose province seems to have been, to hold their courts 
in places situated at a distance from the principal foudry, or 
high court, to which appeals were carried. The appointment 



SANDSTLNO AND AITHSTINO. 99 

of sheriff put an end to these courts ; but, it must be admitted, 
that the municipal regulations by which their proceedings were 
conducted, were well calculated for preserving good order in the 
islands. 

Situation^ Boundary ^ and Extent. — These united parishes are si- 
tuated in latitude 60® 30', and form the bounds of one ministry. 
They lie nearly in the middle of the mainland of Shetland, and are 
bounded on the east, by that part of the parish of Tingwall, called 
Wiesdale ; on the south and south-west, by the Atlantic Ocean ; 
on the north-west, by the parish of Walls ; on the north, by a large 
arm of the sea called the Minn, or Swarback's Minn, separating 
them from Muckle Roe, an island belonging to the parish of Del- 
ting; and, on the north-east, they march with Delting on the 
Mainland. As no regular survey of the parishes has been made, 
or actual measurement of their extent taken, their dimensions 
cannot be stated with perfect accuracy ; but their length may be 
fairly estimated at 10 miles, and their breadth at 8 miles. 

Topographical Appearances. — These parishes are of an oblong 
figure, and their greatest length is from north to south, or rather 
from north north-west to south south east. They abound in knolls, 
or rising grounds ; but there are no hills of any considerable height 
in them, neither is there, in any one place, any considerable ex- 
tent of low level land. The cultivated lands are generally bounded 
on the one side by the sea, while the occupiers of lands, which 
are farther inland, have an easy access to the sea, none of them 
being more distant from it than a mile. All the rising grounds 
are covered with heather, interspersed with patches of green, on 
a mossy soil, while the nesses or peninsulas are generally greeu. 
The parishes abound in moss, which, in many places, is very deep, 
and which affords abundance of excellent fuel for the people, 
though it yields not much good pasture for the cattle. The shore 
on the west side, where it is washed by the Atlantic Ocean, is 
bold, and in the rocks are many caves, to which the wild pigeons 

resort. 

Climate. — A great deal of rain falls, and the air is generally very 
damp. Notwithstanding, however, the excess of moisture, the 
country cannot by any means be considered as unhealthy. Though 
the deep moss, which is the general soil in these parishes, may emit 
copious exhalations, these do not appear to carry with them any 
contagious miasmata. But when these exhalations are condensed 
and converted into hoar-frost, they often do very serious damage 



100 SHETLAND. 

c 

to the crops. If the corns are Blling, and the potato haulms are 
green, they never recover. 

Heavy and long-continued rains frequently fall in every season 
of the year, but more especially in winter and spring. The hea^ 
viest rains are from the south and south-west. Yet, while the 
climate is justly characterised as variable and uncertain, the best 
proof that these changes are not prejudicial to the health is, that 
many of the inhabitants enjoy this blessing almost uninterruptedly 
till an advanced age. I may mention that there are eighteen per^ 
sons now living in the parish, whose united ages amount to 1552. . 

Voes or Bays, — The principal voes or bays on the north-west 
and west are, Gruting, Airs of Selivoc, and Olla's Voes, which 
lead in between the south point of the Island of Vaila, in the pa« 
rish of Walls, and the well known land-mark, the burgh of Culs- 
wick. The entrance is narrow, but deep ; and within, there is 
nothing to fear, — these three voes or bays being completely land- 
locked. They are also very extensive, capable of affording an - 
chorage to ships of any burthen and in any number. 

Several miles to the southward and eastward, along a bold 
shore, are the two vo.es of Skeld. The more westerly voe opens 
to the south, and in it vessels seldom come to an anchor. The 
entrance to the more easterly voe is narrow, but inside it enlarges 
into a fine bason with excellent anchorage. 

By rounding a pretty high headland a little farther east, the 
entrance into Selivoe and Sand- Voe opens. These voes are se- 
parated from each other by a small island called Kirk-holm, and 
a neck of land called Kirk-ness. The more westerly is Selivoe, 
(which, in the Norwegian language, signifies Herring-voe), which 
extends a considerable way inland. In any part of it, a vessel 
may ride in perfect safety. Not even a swell from the ocean is 
felt here ; and if the anchors and cables are good, the bottom 
being a stiff blue clay, blow high, blow low, nothing is to be feared. 

Sand- Voe, on the contrary, is so very open to the south-west, 
and the ground so very loose, that no vessel would anchor in it 
unless in fine summer weather, and would hardly risk lying in it 
over night. 

Leaving Selivoe, crossing the mouth of Sand- Voe, and passing 
through a narrow sound between the peninsula Foreness, and the 
small island Foreholm, Sandsound-Voe opens on the left, and 
winds in a northerly direction between five and six miles inland. 

.3 



SANDSTINO AND A1TH8TINO. 101 

It takes difTerent names according to tlie different places border- 
ing on it; such as Sandsound-Voe, Tresta-Voe, Bixter-Voe, &c. 

Entering in from the west, through St Magnus's Bay, and on 
the north part of Aithsting, is the voe or bay of West Burrafirth, 
opening to the north, an unsafe harbour, and seldom taken by 
any vessel. Proceeding east, round the Nien or Ness of Brin- 
dister, a fine voe opens called the Voe of Brindister, from a vil- 
lage of that name near its mouth. As it extends inland several 
miles in a south-westerly direction, it takes the name of Unifirth* 
Voe, from a village of that name situated on its west bank. It is 
here studded with several small green holms or islands, and its 
shores yield the richest, and, for the same extent, the greatest 
quantity of sea weed for kelp, which is perhaps in the country. 

In proceeding a little farther east, and rounding a pretty high 
headland called the Ness of Nunsburgh, the Voe of Clousta 
opens, running inland about one mile and a -half in a southerly and 
south-easterly direction. This, as well as the Voe of Brindister, 
affords excellent anchorage, and in both, vessels can ride in the 
greatest safety. The west end of the Island of Vementry, with 
some small grazing holms, lie outside, and in a great measure 
cover the entrance into this voe. A vessel leaving Clousta Voe 
and sailing east, must steer outside of the Island of Vementry and 
through the Minn or Swarback's Minn. There is a passage in- 
side of the island, that is, between the island and the mainland ; 
but it is too narrow and shallow unless for boats. 

A little farther cast, is the Island of Papa Little ; passing be- 
tween it and a part of the mainland called Aithsness, Aith's-Voe 
opens to the southward, and East Burrafirth-Voe due east. Aith's- 
Voe is a very extensive inland harbour, while East Burrafirth-Voe 
is very smalL Both, however, are perfectly safe. 

These are the principal voes or harbours in Sandsting and 
Aithsting. They are excellent in themselves, but their situation 
renders them comparatively of little benefit either to the public or 
to individuals. Several of them, however, abound with the largest 
and finest ovsters which are to be found in the kihofdom. There 
are also many mussel scaaps or beds in them, which are used as 
bait for the small fishing ; and in the deeper parts of the voes, is 
to be found a large mussel called a yoag, which is used as bait by 
vessels in the cod-fishing. 

Islands. — The principal islands are, Vementry and Papa Little. 
There are several other small islands or holms, which are capable 



102 SHETLAND. 

of grazing one or two cows during the summer, or a few sheep ; 
and some of them yielding grass barely sufficient for supporting 
an eil-mark* sheep for a few months, in the summer and harvest. 

Yementry is a htrge island, green on the east end, and cx>vered 
with heather on the west. It is considered a rich island, and is 
capable of grazing about twenty score of sheep, besides a propor- 
tion of black-cattle. It is at present stocked with a heavy breed 
of sheep, generally of the white-faced kind. It }ields a yearly 
rent to the proprietor, Mr Gifford of Busta, of upwards of L. 60 
Sterling. About one hundred years ago, it was purchased, 
stocked with fifteen score of sheep, for L. 30 Sterling ; a striking 
proof how much money has been depreciated, while lands and 
produce have risen in value. There are three merks of rental 
land in the island, which was formerly cropped, but which, for 
these few years back, have been mostly converted into pasture. 
The greater part of the sheep stock are in steelbow.f The island 
pays of stipend to the minister, 16s. 6d. Sterling. 

The Island of Papa Little is neither so rich in quality, nor so 
extensive as Yementry. It also consists of three merks of rental 
land, which is cropped by the tenant. It will carry about ten 
score of sheep, which, till lately, were of the native breed, but 
are now begun to be crossed with the white and black- faced kinds. 
But the tenant is of opinion that the island, owing to the want of 
a sufficiency of good food, is incapable of carrying a heavy breed 
of sheep. The rental land is of a very good quality, but the pas- 
ture ground has a very parched appearance, consisting principally 
of stinted heather. In addition to the sheep stock, the tenant 
keeps about fifteen head of black-cattle, young and old. The 
island was some time since held in steelbow, bui it now pays a 
yearly rent of L.20 to the proprietor. Sir Arthur Nicolson. It 
pays of stipend to the minister, 13s. 6d. per annum. The sheep 
in Yementry and Papa Little are free from the scab. 

Springs, — There are innumerable springs in the parish, of pure 
and wholesome water, and also many which have passed over 
bog-iron, and which are strongly impregnated with its tint and 
taste. 

Lochs. — There are no fewer than 140 lochs in the parish, 

• Kil-mark, a beast which no dike will turn, and which cannot be kept out of 
the corn. 

t SteeUxjw ; that is the tenant rcceiires a ceruin number of sheep, cows, or horscn, 
for the use and profits of which he pays a certain sum per head yearly, and at the 
expiry o\' his lease is bound to Icatc an equal number. 



8ANDSTING AND AITH8TINO. 103 

some of vliich are of very considerable extent. They are ge- 
nerally skirted with green, and several of them are studded with 
islets or holms, on which numerous wild fowls build their nests. 
The water is very dark* coloured, owing to the mossy nature of 
the soil through which the rivulets run, which feed the lochs. 

Geology and Mineralogy.- — Quartzose gneiss abounds in the hill 
of Russness, on the east side of the voe of Sandsound, and to the 
southward of a village of that name. It contains a great quantity 
of quartz and of light-coloured mica. The line of bearing may be 
stated on an average from south 12° west, to north 12° east The 
dip is to the west, at angles most frequently from 70° and up- 
wards. The position of the strata is sometimes vertical. 

The rocks in Foreness (a peninsula to the southward of Inner- 
sand, and lying between Sand-voe and Sandsound-voe,) partake of 
the common description of gneiss, the felspar being in excess, the 
other ingredients being present, and the strata traversed by small 
veins of granite. 

At Berfield, (a little above Sandsound, on the east side of the 
voe,) talc takes the place of mica, not only in the gneiss, but also 
in the granitic veins. 

A little to the northward of Innersand, on the west side of the 
voe of Sandsound, a quarry of chromate of iron was opened some 
years ago. But though several tons of it have at different times 
been sent to market, the quality of it, and the returns made, did 
not warrant a continued working of it. I have seen several large 
imbedded masses of chromate of iron at Garden, in Aithsting. 
These are the only places in the parish, where it has been disco- 
vered. A little to the north of the chromate quarry, limestone 
makes its appearance. 

At a burn called Tactagill, about a mile to the eastward of 
Tresta, which is situated on the eastern bank of a continuation of 
Sandsound-voe, here called Tresta- voe, a great quantity of por- 
celain earth, of a yellowish white colour, is to be found. Rocks of 
gneiss, of which white quartz is one of the component parts, 
blended with talc and felspar, extend from Reawickness to Kirk- 
ness, and the west shore of Bixter-voe, being a continuation of 
Sandsound voe. The directions of the strata are from south 15^ 
west, to north 15'' east, and from south 20^ west, to north 20** 
east Several interstrata of limestone make their appearance, in 
a line of direction nearly parallel to that of the strata among which 
they occur. Limestone appears in Kirkholm, Kirkness, (both on 



104 SHETLAND. 

the east side of Selivoe,) and on the west side ofBixtervoe. The 
predominating rocks, in a line from Reawick, along the west bank 
of Selivoe to the west bank of Blxter voe, are red granite, which 
comprehends all Sandsting to the west. It contains veins of 
quartz, and, of course, very red felspar. 

The quartz rock of Aithsting is of a bluish grey colour, and 
presents something of a wedge-like shape. The two bounding* 
lines diverging fron> a point in the island of Papa Little, are con- 
tinued in a direction of south 60"" west, to the westward; whilst 
the other extends in a straight line south 32^ west, to the head of 
Bixter-voe, when it first comes in contact with the granite of Sand- 
sting. The quartz admits into its composition so much felspar, 
that in decomposed specimens, where this ingredient is particular- 
ly demonstrated, it is sufficiently distinguished from the sandstone 
of newer formations, which it otherwise resembles. Siliceous mat- 
ter is, however, the prevalent substance. In the vicinity of Aiths- 
ness, it contains small sparing portions of clayslate, by which it 
becomes the grauwacke of some authors. At Papa Little, Aiths- 
ness, Clousta-voe, Nunsburgh, and West Burrafirth, the rock is, 
in several places, varied by the presence of small angular portions 
of red felspar, and passes into felspar porphyry. At Aithsness, it 
contains greenstone as well as limestone, in the form of thin beds 
or veins. It is also impregnated with much ferruginous, in the 
shape of an oxide. In some places, are to be observed veins of 
sparry iron-ore. 

The quartz rock generally consists of minute grains firmly unit- 
ed together, and possessing semicrystalline forms. In thb respect 
it differs from a particular variety of sandstone found on the east 
side of the island, where the texture is much looser, and where 
the grains show numerous marks of attrition. South of the hill of 
Aithsness, and at a few other places, the particles of quartz di- 
minish so much in size, that the rock appears of a compact struc- 
ture. 

The stratification of the quartz rock seems remarkably connect- 
ed with the partial occurrence of mica, whilst its line of direction 
docs not follow that of other mountain masses of Shetland, which 
have been represented as stretching from south by west, to north 
by east On the contrary, it extends from south 60° east, to 
north 60° west, from east to west, and from south 70° west, to 
north 70° east. The dip is at various points of the compass, while 
the angle of inclination is, as appears in an horizontal section, 



SANOSTING AN1> AITHSTING. 105 

from 40"" to 45°. In several places, the quartz is decidedly unstra- 
titled, and yields to blows of the hammer equally in various direc- 
tions ; but whether stratified or unstratified, it is resolved by other 
seams into polyedrous masses of various magnitudes. 

At the north voe of Clousta, there occurs, resting on the quartz, 
a small roundish conglomerated mass of granite, felspar, and 
quartz, scarcely, perhaps, more than 150 yards in diameter; a 
gradual transition of one rock into the other being observable at 
the junction. A few of the conglomerate strata next to those of 
the quartz, range at a common angle of 45*. But crossing the 
strata for a few yards only, they gradually 'acquire an inclination 
with the horizon of only 10% and maintaining this position, they 
are terminated. Now, there is every reason to suppose, that the 
lower edges of the strata of the conglomerate rock are in contact 
with the surface formed by the upper edges of quartz. This 
change of inclination, therefore, from 45° to 10% can be satisfac- 
torily accounted for, on the supposition that the strata had acquir- 
ed an addition of new matter in their descent, which may either 
consist in an increased thickness of the strata, or in an accession 
of new strata. It is thus that the increased accumulation of mat- 
ter which the strata may possibly have received in proportion 
to their depth, would produce an elevation of the uppermost 
strata. 

The quartz rock of Aithsting passes into the granite rock of 
Sandsting, at the head of Bixter-voe, by gradually losing its homo- 
geneous appearance, and by its ingredients being interspersed 
in a distinct form of larger grains or concretions, until the rock 
is at length wholly composed of seroicry stall ine portions of quartz 
and felspar. Occasionally, however, an alternation takes place of 
the two rocks. To the north of Bixter-voe, the quartz rock is 
contiguous to gneiss ; but the junction is, for the most part, much 
concealed by a deep moss. At Braganess, (to the north-west of 
Aithsness,) the line of demarcation between the two rocks is per- 
fectly complete, no transition taking place. 

The quartz rock is elevated into numerous irregular ridges, not 
above 600 or 700 feet high, mnnmg from east to west, and inter- 
sected by valleys. 

Much of the surface of the quartz rock is concealed by a deep 

peat moss ; but everywhere, a great display of bog iron is presented. 

The strata of gneiss which, from the island of Papa Little along 

the north coast of Aithsting, for a distance of upwards of five 



106 SHETLAND. 

mike due west, are so associated with hornblende slate, and inti* 
mately combined with the panicles of hornblende, that Dr Hib- 
bert has ^iven to the rock the name of hornblendic gneiss. ^* In 
most specimens," says he, ^* which we examine, the hornblende is 
either openly manifested, or is in such an intimate state of union 
with the felspar, as to impart to this ingredient of the rock a green- 
ish tinge." The other ingredients of quartz, felspar, and mica are, 
as in all other varieties of gneiss, described to be found in very 
different proportions. 

The gneiss, at th#Nien or Ness of Brindister, is traversed with 
a vein of granite of very considerable size, being not less than 45 
feet broad, and running from south-west by south to north-east by 
north. At Vementry, the veins of granite are particularly tortu* 
ous, and ramify in the most remarkable manner. 

Besides granite, veins of quartz, compact felspar, felspar-por- 
phyry, greenstone, or sienitic greenstone, are often seen. Thin 
interstrata, of very pure limestone, are to be seen at Braganess, 
West Burrafirth, and other places. The granitic veins which tra- 
verse them, are often diverted from their course in the most re- 
markable manner, showing great signs of distortion. 

The presence of beds of hornblende slate, or of intermixed par- 
ticles of hornblende, has a strong tendency to disturb the strata 
among which they appear. On this account, any general state- 
ment of the most prevalent line of direction would be impossible. 
The direction, which may possibly be the most prevalent, has been 
found to be from south -west by south to north-east by north. The 
dip was mostly to the west, at angles from 50° to TO"*. 

The relations of the strata are much concealed by the sea. At 
Vementry and Braganess, the line of direction stretches from the 
bluish-grey quartz rock, near Aithsness, to the granite of Vemen- 
try ; consequently, the strata are opposed to the bounding lines of 
each of these masses, at various angles. More westerly, they only 
meet, under similar circumstances, the quartz rocks of this dis- 
trict. The invasions which take place, in the form of dikes or 
veins, from the contiguous mountains of granite, both in the south 
end of the Island of Meikle Roe and in the west end of Vemen- 
try, are very large, and are particularly seen near the junction of 
the gneiss and granite in the neighbourhood of the dwelling-house 
in Vementry. 

I have frequently found, on the shore, pieces of pumice stone, 
which, from its small specific gravity, readily floats on the water : 



SANDSTINO AND AITHSTINO. 107 

these specimeDs, it is probable, were driven here from the volcanic 
rocks of Iceland. 

I have also picked up, at different times several Molucca beans, 
the production of the West Indies ; and have seen some of the 
larger ones of them converted into snuff-boxes, having a top of 
lead or pewter affixed to them.* 

The soil, in a very few places, is sandy ; in some, clay ; in 
others, a light brown mould ; but, in the greater part of the pa- 
rish, it consists of a deep black moss. In cold seasons, particu- 
larly in the month of May and beginning of June, the grub worm 
often does great damage to the corns, by destroying the roots. In 
1829, I sowed a small quantity of buck wheat on the glebe, which 
presented a very fine appearance, till it was in blossom, when the 
grub attacked it, and did not leave a single stalk. 

Zoology, — The fresh water lakes abound with that species of 
trout usually known by the name of the burn-trout, some of which 
I have caught weighing upwards of six pounds. The sea-trout and 
the burn-trout enter the burns to spawn in August or September, 
according to the time when the rains have swelled the burns. If 
the weather has been fine, and falls of rain, it is very interesting 
to observe the anxiety which the trouts manifest to fulfil their des- 
tination. They leap about the mouth of the burn, where it emp- 
ties itself into the sea, and show distinctly that they know their 
particular season; and, in their eagerness to gain this end, they 
frequently run into shallow water, and are taken. 

Trouts are often taken by setting a net across the mouth of the 
bum, where it empties itself into the sea, at the time of the tide 
of flood ; and, when it has ebbed sufficiently, they are an easy 
prey, — being either entangled in the net, or left without the means 
of escape. There is another method which is often had recourse to 
for the same purpose, viz. " the houvie." The houvie is made of 
the stalks of the dock, wide at the one end, and narrow at the 
other. A dike U built across the burn, leaving an open space in 
the middle sufficient to admit the wider end of the houvie. After 
the houvie is firmly placed in this open space, a person, with a 
stick in his hand, wades down the burn, and drives the trouts be- 
fore him. Having entered the houvie and reached its narrow end, 
they cannot turn to get out again. 

In most of the friths or voes, there are haddocks, whitings, cod- 

* In my account of the Geology and Mineralogy of Sandsting and Aithsting, I* 
acknowledge my obligations to Dr Hibbert. 



108 SHETLAND. 

lings, flounders^ haTibut^ skate, mackerel, and herrings in summer 
and harvest, and the cole-fish or seath, with its numerous fry call- 
ed sillocks and piltoeks. The sillocks do not exceed six inches in 
length the 6rst year, and are known by this name till they have 
drunk of the first tide of summer, after which they take the name of 
piltoeks, and will be found from ten to twelve inches long. When 
two years old, they are called bilyia piltoeks ; when three years old, 
Steven piltoeks; and afterwards they are known by the name of 
seath. The seath-fishing is not prosecuted in this parish. 

Shell-fish of every kind are to be found in the voes or friths ; 
oysters, large mussel or yoag, common mussel, spouts or razor- 
fish, cockles, smisslings, cullicks, welks, buckies, limpets, crabs, 
lobsters, harps, &c. 

Botany. — Under this head I may observe, that wherever the 
moss is so deep as to admit of peats being taken, roots and branches 
of the birch and hazel have very frequently been dug up. The 
mountain-ash or rowan-^tree, the hazel, the honeysuckle, the hip- 
brier, and willow, are natives in many of the islets or holms in 
the fresh water lochs. In any other situations, I believe, they 
could not exist; for horses, cows, and sheep, browse upon and 
destroy every thing that comes in their way, when they are 
hard pressed for food. And this may be the reason why plants 
of this description, and, perhaps, others have disappeared from 
the common range of pasture. That trees will grow and attain 
a considerable size, if properly sheltered and defended from 
man and beast, I have abundant proof. In my garden a native 
mountain-ash has attained to such an height, that crows have 
built a nest in it And a bower or elder tree also grows in my 
garden, graced with a crow's nest. In the garden at Sand, formerly 
the seat of Sir John Mitchell of Westshore, there are plane, ash, 
elder, rowan, and hawthorn-trees, of considerable size. It may 
be remarked, that, if plantations are ever attempted, they must be 
on a large scale, so that the plants may afford shelter to each other; 
and they must also be protected by a wall, which could not only 
defend from the encroachments of cattle, but which would also be 
proof against the inroads of man. For a shrub of the size of a 
walking-stick, a flail-tree, or a fishing-rod, would prove a tempta- 
tion too strong for the moral courage of a Shetlander to resist. 

The apple-tree blossoms, and carries fruit ; but I have never 
seen it come to perfection. It is different, however, with the 
smaller fruits. The gooseberry, the black, red, and white cur- 



SANDSTINO AND AITHSTINO. 



109 



rants, thrive well, and in good seasons come to perfection, and are 
particularly fine*flavoured. Strawberries in the gardens, and 
craw-berries on the bills, ripen well and are abundant Rhubarb, 
mint, and every kind of vegetable usually raised in the kitchen* 
garden, are raised here in perfection. 

II. — Civil Historit. 
Land- oumers. — 

Merks. 

The Right Hon. Lord Dundas is patron of the parish, and proprietor of 65 

Andrew Grierson of Qucndale, ..... 241 1 

John Scott of Scalloway, ..... 204} 

Arthur GiSbrd of Biista, . . . . . .874 

James Greig of Garderhouse, ..... 60$ 

Andrew Umphray of Reawick, i • . . . 494 

Smith of Greenland, . . i . . 10 

Andrew Irvine of Lerwick, ..... 9 

Thomas Henry of Burrastow, ..... 9 

James Mitchell, Sandsound, • • . • • 4 

Sir Arthur Nicolson of Lochend, .... 8 

John Chcyne of Tanwick, ••.... 8 

Robert Doull of Fogregirth, ..... 8 

Laurence Redland, Wester Skeld, . . , . • -24 

Andrew Redland, Scarvister, ..... 2 

Dr James Soott, ....... 17 

Anthony Doull, Brindister, ..... 6 

Glebe, ..... 9 merks 

Total merks, 777 

There are no resident heritors, unless Robert Doull, James 
Mitchell, Laurence Redland, Andrew Redland, and Anthony 
Doul, Brindister. 

Parochial Registers. — The acts or minutes of session commence 
in 1733, and are contained in one volume. They appear to have 
been regularly kept from that period, till about 1765 ; but between 
the death or demission of one minister and the admission of ano- 
ther, little care seems to have been taken of the register ; so that 
now, it is in a very shattered and imperfect state. 

Antiquities. — The small island, called Kirk-holm, in the mouth 
of Selivoe, presents every appearance of having at one time been 
put in a state of defence. A breastwork of earth round the 
most accessible parts of the island, t. e. on the west, north, and 
part of the east sides, is still visible ; and the foundations of nine 
houses, for the accommodation of those who may have fortified 
themselves in it, can also be traced. Two of the houses, which 
have been erected at the north end of the holm, stood north and 
south, with their door towards the west, and measure each 36 
feet long by 12 feet broad inside. At a distance of 42 feet to 
the southward, is the foundation of another house of 28 feet long 



110 SHETLAND. 

by 10 feet wide, standing east and west, with the door towards 
the north ; and at a distance of 4*2 feet to the southward of this 
last-mentioned house, is the first of six houses more, which six 
houses stand parallel to each other, and in the direction of east 
and west, with their doors towards the north. All the houses are 
separated from each other ; but the intermediate space between 
them appears to have been no more than sufficient to have ad- 
mitted one person. The doors have been 3 feet wide. 

As there are no springs of water in the holm, a tank or re- 
servoir appears to have been formed for the reception of rain- 
water, or of water brought from the adjoining ness.* 

There are five burying places in the parish, viz. at Sand, West 
Skeld and Grutin^ in Sandsting, and at Twatt and Aith in Aith- 
sting. Though at two of them only, viz. Sand and Twatt, is 
it certain that churches have been built, yet it is more than pro- 
bable that, while the Roman Catholic religion flourished in the 
islands, there have been churches or chapels in the immediate 
neighbourhood of them all. In addition to the church or chapel 
aud burying-ground at West Skeld, there are the ruins of a burgh 
or fort. From the ruins which still appear, we are warranted to 
infer, that it was a place of very considerable dimensions ; but what 
these were, or in what form the burgh itself was constructed, can- 
not now be ascertained. It was built of blocks of red granite, 
without cement. In the eighth century, and while defended by a 
band of brave and trusty warriors, we may suppose it affording 
protection to the lives, and the goods and gear of the udalmeti 
around ; but in the nineteenth century, its venerable ruins may be 

* Tradition says, that in 1568, one of the Spanish Armada wa^ lost in what is 
called the deeps or haddock-sand, a few miles to the southward, that the crew took 
shelter in the holm, and that they fortified themselves in it. till they should know the 
reception they were likely to receive from the natives. This tradition is support- 
ed by the fact, that a particular spot where the fishermen set their lines, and where 
the ship is said to have foundered, is known to the present time by the name of the 
ship. Tradition farther says that, in gratitude for their preservation, and the friend- 
ly reception they met with, the crew built a church at Sand, about a mile and a half 
Irora the holm, and dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin. It appears to have been a 
very neat and substantial building, with a chancel or choir on the east end, separated 
from the body of the church by an arch extending from one side to the other. There 
does not appear to have been any hewn stones made use of in the building ; but such 
stones as had the plainest and smoothest surface were placed on the outer and inner 
sides of the walls,— -the heart of the wall filled witn boulder or round stones, and ce. 
ment, apparently of burnt shells, and of thin consistence, and all the empty spaces 
completely filled up. The roof was thatched. After the Reformation extend- 
ed itself to Sandsting about 1600, the kirk at Sand was converted into a Protest- 
ant church. Between 1760 and 1770, this church was allowed to fall into a state 
of great disrepair. What the lairds, or the people, or both, in the first instance pre- 
served, the fury of the ocean has been fast destroying. The chancel or choir is near- 
ly washed away. 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTINO 111 

seen stuck up in the walls of the dwelling-houses, office-houses, 
yard dikes, &c. of fifteen families in the village. 

About a mile to the westward of the two Culswicks, and on the 
summit of a precipitous cliff of red granite, of several hundred feet 
in height, stands a burgh, or rather the ruins of a burgh, which 
still, though recently demolished, presents the appearance of hav- 
ing been in former days a place of very great strength.* 

A burgh, built on a low neck of land, and formerly surrounded 
by the sea, is to be seen immediately below the present dwelling- 
houses of Nunsbur^rh. 

Another burgh stands in the middle of the voe of East Burra- 
firth, a few hundred yards from its mouth, and opposite the dwel- 
ling-houses. Whether this burgh was built on an islet or a foun- 
dation forced for it, I cannot say. The voe is not deep where it 
stands, and there is no spare space around it. 

There are several other ruins in the parish ; but, as all of them 
are to be met with on the tops of rising grounds only, the most 
probable conjecture regarding them is, that they have been watch- 
towers : and this conjecture is supported by the name given to the 
particular spots which these ruins occupy, — for instance, *^ the 
wart" (which, no doubt, is a corruption of ward) of Reawick;- 
" the wart" of Brouland, &c. 

In his notices of Shetland, Mr Pennant observes, *' that the 
Norwegians had anciently their ward-madher or watchman, a sort 
of sentinel who stood on the top of a vord-hill, and challenged all 
who came in sight." We know that it is customary with foreign- 
ers to change w into v, — thus, ward, vard or vord, Shetlandice, 
wart. 

There are several tall unhewn stones standing in different parts 
of the parish.-f- The purpose of these cannot be stated with cer- 
tainty. 

* See description of this burgh by Dr Hibbert. 

t I may mention the tradition respecting two standing stones in the neighbour- 
hood of West Slceld, which will show bow little credit is to be given to tradition 
when unsupported by some collateral evidence. These two stones are said to be the 
metamorphosis of two wizards or giants, who were on their way to plunder and mur- 
der the inhabitaiiu of West Skeld ; but, not having calculated their time with suffi- 
cient accuracy, before they could accomplish their purpose, or retrace their steps to 
their dark abodes, the first rays of the morning sun appeared, and they were imme- 
diately transformed, and remain to the present time in the shape of two tall moss- 
grown stones of ten feet in height. All the ancient buildings which have been erect- 
ed, and large stones which have been raised upright, about which there is no parti- 
cular tradition, are uniformly ascribed to the agency of the Picts, or Pedits, as they 
are called, or to evil spirits. 

Since writing my account of the antiquities of the parish, I have been put in pos- 



112 SHETLAND. 

Barrows or Tumuli. — In several parts of the parish, there are 
the remains of several barrows or tumuli, probably of Scandina* 
vian origin, some of which I have opened, but could not congratu- 
late myself on my researches, they having been opened before. In 
some, I have found bones partly consumed by fire, pieces of charred 
wood, and parts of the urn m which the bones had been deposited. 
The urns appeared to have been rudely wrought out of a coarse 
sandstone, and others out of a soft stone called kleber. In some 
cases, there is every reason to believe that the body had been 
burned at the spot where the ashes had been collected, and placed 
in the urn ; because the stones which were found to surround the 
urn, over which the tumulus was raised, had been subjected to the 
action of a strong fire. In other cases, the urns have been placed 
on a dry piece of ground, covered with a flat stone, and a little 
earth thrown over them. Of this latter description I have one in 
my possession, which I found under the foundation of the glebe 
dike. It measures 12 inches over the mouth, 10 inches over the 
bottom, and is 10 inches deep. It contained a quantity of half- 
burnt bones, and was covered with a pretty heavy stone, flat on 
the side next to the urn. Unfortunately, it was partly broken be- 
fore I discovered it. There is, however, enough remaining to 
show its shape and workmanship. 

I have discovered two other urns on the glebe, filled with a black 
unctuous earth, but so much decayed, that no part of them could 
be lifted. Out of one of them I removed the earth, and found, 
lying at right angles in the bottom, four pieces of broken stone 
axes.* 

session of a quern or hanrUmill, dug out of the ruins of the burgh at Easter Skeld. 
It is 13 inches in diameter, and 2^ inches in thickness. It appears to hare been 
formed in the same way as the hand-mills now are, or rather it has been the model 
by which they have been made. It has groups or grooTcs cut for the sile to rest in, 
and an hole for the handle. I have recovered the half only of the under stone, the 
dimensions of which have exceeded a little those of the upper stone. They are both 
made of the same kind of stone (micaceous schistus) as the millstones now In use arc 
made of. 

* I subjoin Dr Hibbert*8 description of these instruments, and then add the obser. 
vations I have to offer : — 

" The ancient weapons of war discovered in Shetland are of stone. That such 
were used by tlic Teutonic tribes of Europe in the eighth century, and probably very 
long before, is evident from the fragment of a prose- romance written about that pe- 
riod, in the Saxon dialect of the Teutonic. Tliis manuscript, which is preserved in 
Cassel, was first printed in Eccardi Comment, de rebus Francias Orientalis, and it has 
been reprinted with a Latin and English translation, in an interesting work lately 
published in Edinburgh, entitled, <* illustrations of Northern Antiquities.*' From 
this very curious document, two or three disjoined passages may be given, by which 
wc may see the reference wbicli is made to the Teutonic burgh, and to the arms con- 
temporary with this early kind of fortress:— 1< I heard it related that Hiitibrant and 
Ilatubrant with one mind agreed to go on a warlike expedition. Tlie relatives (sons 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 113 

Modern Buildings — Churches. — From the time of the Reforma- 
tion till the year 1780^ there were two churches in the parish, viz. one 

of the same fiither) made ready their horses, prepared their war-shirts* (shirts of mail), 
girded on their swords (which were fastened) at the hilt with chains. 

" well give i|ow, (turn thou this to good) wielding God, quoth Hilti« 

brand, whose word is done. I wandered summers and winters sixty out of (my) 
land ; there they detached me among shooting people (archers) ; never in any bur^, 
(city, castle), fiuten^ they my le^; (but) now my nearest relation will hew my 
neck with his bill, (battle-axe) or I entangle his legs, (tie him like a captive.) 

** said Hiltibrand.— .Good fellow citisens, bejudges who it be that this day 
must quit the field of battle, or who will have both these brunics (hauberks) in bis 
possession. 

** Then they first let ashen (spears) fiy with rapid force, that they stuck in the 
shields. ^ Then they thrust together, resounding stone-axes ; they wrathfuUy heaved 
white shields.** — Illustraticns of Northern Antiquities. 

These extracts, from a coraponition of so remote a date as the eighth century, may be 
considered as illustrative of the general mode of waifare adopted at that time by the 
Saxon and Scandinavian tribes of Europe, among whom a greater similarity of Ian* 
guage and manners then prevailed, than was to be found at a later period. The first 
of the offensive arms of the Teutones of the eighth century was the Battle>axe. 1 1 ap- 
pears that these axes were constructed of stone. The heroes of the Teutonic romance 
are said to have *< thrust together resounding stone-axes ;** these weapons being ex- 
pressed in the original by the term Staimbort, from Stein, a stone, and Barte or Barde, 
an axe. In Shetland, numbers of stone axes have been discovered, which are wrought 
from a remarkably compact green porphyry, probably derived from Scandinavia. I n 
a note, the Doctor remarks, ^* the stone contains, along with quartx, a considerable 
portion of felspar in its composition, and probably some little magnesian earth ; it re- 
sembles a rock that 1 have seen associated with serpentine, as well as a substance that 
is used in the construction of some of the stone hatchets of the South Sea Islands.** 
In form, the Shetland steinbarte, or stone axe, is of two varieties ; it is either single or 
double edged. 

. Single-edged Steinbarte. — This variety has one cutting-edge, generally of a semilunar 
outline, and tapering from opposite points to a blunted extremity or heel. In some spe- 
cimens, both sides are convex ; in others, one side only, the other being Battened. All 
the edges, except the broad sharpened margin^ are bluntly rounded off. The single* 
edged stone axes of Shetland vary much in their dimensions, being from four to 
eight or ten inches in length; their breadth proportionally differing. AVhen the 
Shetland steinbarte was used in war, its blunt tapering eitremity may be supposed 
to have been introduced within the perforation made into some wooden or bone haft, 
and afterwards secured by overlapping cords, formed of thongs of leather or of the en- 
trails of some animal ; twine of hemp not being then in use. Another kind of steiu« 
barte has been said to occur in Shetland, the sharp edge of which describes the seg- 
ment of a circle, whilst the chord of the outline is thickened like the back of a knire. 
Probably its blunt edge was fixed within the groove of a wooden or bone handle, so as 
to form a single-edged cutting instrument. 

Double-edged Steinbarte, — The blade of this instrument is a stone completely flat- 
tened on each of its sides, and not more than the tenth of an inch thick ; it is of an ob- 
long shape, having one blunted margin perfectly straight, and when the stone is held 
in such a position that the dull edge is the uppermost, we have the form of a blade 
presented, in which the two narrow edges are irregularly rounded off at their angles, 
so that one edge is much broader than the other. Every part of the margin but that 
which constitutes the summit of the outline is shaipened ; by which means, there is 
a great addition made to the extent of the cutting edge. The blade is five inches and 
a-half long, and from three to four broad. Mallet, in his Hbtory of Denmark, de« 
scribes a battle axe of two edges, as used by the ancient Scandinavians, and he adds, 
that, when it was fixed to a long pole, it constituted a halbert. In reference to this 
observation, I have supposed a long staff with the extremity so penetrated at one or 
two inches from the summit, as to form a long groove four inches in length, through 
which the stone blade with the blunt side kept uppermost, may be drawn half-way, 
and then secured to its station by means of cross ligatures. Tlie whole would then 
present the form of a two-edged battle-axe. Antiquaries have remarked that this 
weapon was probably in use from the earliest period ; but since it was in the course of 
time wielded by the Trabants, or those who stood upon guard in the castles of their 

SHETLAND. H 



114 SHETLAND. 

at Sand in Sandsting, and another at Twalt in Aithsting. The minis* 
ter officiated at each every alternate Sabbath. The present kirk was 

kings, it was named a halbert, from the Teutonic, ?uile, a court, and hardey an axe. 
In the true spirit, therefore, of archaiological reasoning, it may be pronounced that 
the blade of this yaricty of the Shetland steinbarte and the hypothetical handle to 
which it is fastened, constitute the rude form of the northern halbert. 

The blades of steinbartes are Tery abundantly found in Shetland. Not unfreqBent- 
ly, several of them are discovered buried together, thus indicating a little armoury, 
from which a number of weapons might be distributed on an emergency, by the hand 
of some chief to a small band of natives met together, on the alarm of common danj^er. 
Assemblages of these weapons have been found in the parishes of Walls, of Delting, 
and in the Island of Unst. In Northmavine, says Mr Low of Orkney, seven were 
discovered under ground, disposed in a circular arrangement, with the points of each 
directed towards the centre of the ring : — it is a pity that the number of these wea- 
pons was not nine, corresponding to the nine wounds of a lance in the form of a cir- 
cle, which the deified Scandinavian hero Odin gave himself, when, by an act of sui- 
cide, he showed an eiample of death to his surrounding followers. At any rate) the 
circular arrangement of the weapons remains, indicative of a mystical allusion, and 
that is quite sufficient to provoke an antiquarian inference. 

Regarding the people by whom these stone-axes were used, the natives of Shetland 
have not the least tradition, and this circumstance is a proof of their great antiquity. 
They are supposed to have dropt from the clouds, endowed with the power of pro- 
tecting the houses in which they are preserved from the effects of thunder ; hence 
they arc commonly named thunder-bolts, &c.—- Iter ii. Some of the stone-axes, as 
Dr Hihbert observes* are of green porphyry, but I have seen some of them fbnned 
out of a remarkably compact grey -coloured stone. And even the green porphyry in 
some of them, from a particular chemical action to which they have been expcMed, 
have, in a great measure, lost their distinguishing tint, and become of a whitish grey- 
colour. I have specimens of the stone axe of various dimensions, from 5^ inches to 
6, 8, 10, and 15 inches in length. The cutting edge of the smallest is two inches, 
and of the largest 8^ inches broad ; and they gradually taper to a point at the oppo- 
site extremity. All the specimens in my possession are convex on both sides, but 
more so on the one side than on the other. 

I have some steinbarte of an oval figure, and others of an heart-shape, with the 
apex considerably shortened, both formed of the two kinds of stone above mentioned. 
I'hu largest of the oval ones is 8^ inches long, and 4 inches deep. The cutting edge 
extends to two-thirds of its circumference, and the remaining third is rounded off, 
apparently fur the purpose of holding in the hand. The heart-shaped one has a cut- 
ting edge in every part. I have one different in shape from either of these two ; it 
describes almost a semicircle on the one end, and draws towards a point at the other. 
The semicircle, and as far as the point have cutting edges ; the back is half an inch 
thick, nearly straight, and rounded off. Several stone axes, on removing the surface 
of the ground, were found lying together, a short time ago, within the dikes of Sto- 
nadalc. 

It Iiai been maintained* that the larger steinbartes were used as warlike weapons. 
This may have been the case ; but that they were inserted in an haffc or handle, ap. 
pears to me very doubtful. Prom their tapering shape, no thong could have secured 
them in such a position, and having no neck which the handle might grasp, the act 
of lifting it to give a blow, would even be sufficient to cause it slip from its place. 

Neither is any proof to be deduced from the appearance of the tliin and broad - 
shaped steinbartes, that they ever were used as halberts. To have rendered them ef- 
ficient as a weapon of war, not only must the haft have been grooved, but there 
ought also to have been a corresponding groove in the steinbarte, to retain it in its 
place, something afler the manner of dove-tailing in wood. As there are no marks 
indicating this to have been the case, the steinbarte ought to have been perforated 
that it might have been firmly secured in the groove of the handle. 

The larger steinbarte may have been used both as an offensive and a defensive wea- 
pon ; either by throwing it from the hand, or striking with it, when the combatants 
came to close quarters — and the smaller steinbarte, it is probable, was formerly used 
for domestic purposes, and held a similar place in the eighth or ninth century, which 
a knife does in the nineteenth. That they are a very ancient instrument is without 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTINO. 1 16 

built in 1780, and was intended as a centrical kirk for the whole 
ministry. To have been so it ought to have been placed at CEfirth, 
about two miles farther north. It is seated to accommodate 437 
persons, allowing about sixteen inches to each person. 

Mansion^Houses, — The mansion*houses of proprietors are only 
three in number, viz. Sand House, Garder House, and Reawick. 
Sand House was built in 1754 by Sir Andrew Mitchell of West- 
shore, Bart* The house, gardens, &c. have been, for about forty 
years, the property of the present John Scott, Esq. of Scalloway ; 
but they are fast falling into ruins. 

Garder House, a miniature resemblance of Sand House, was 
built by John Gumming, son of one of the ministers of the parish, 
about 1760, on four merks of land, rented for many years after at 
L.4 Sterling per annum. It is now the property of James Greig, 
Esq. writer in Lerwick. 

Reawick is a plain modern building of six rooms, the property 
of Andrew Umphray, Esq. a minor. 

Milk. — There are about fifty mills in the parish driven by wa- 
ter, and querns or hand-mills without number. 

Ploughs. — When my predecessor, the Rev. Patrick Barclay, 
wrote his Statistical Account of the parish in 1797, there were 
fourteen ploughs, of a construction peculiar to Shetland, in the 
parish. There is not one of that description in it now, and they 
are fast falling into disuse throughout the island* 

III. — Population. 

In 1793, the population was 967 

1755, . . 911 

1775, . 1223 

1792, 1285 

1801, 1493 

1811, . 1617 

1821, 1884 

1831, 2177 

doubt ; for even tradition itself is silent, both as to the time when and the people by 
whom they were used. 

* At that time it must have been a very elegant house with two wings, and the re- 
quisite office houses. In front, and extending the length of the house, is a flower plot, 
on each side of which is a garden of considerable extent, which has been tastefully 

laid out in a line with the outer walls of the gardens, and towards the head o\ the 

voe, is an enclosure of about three acres. The beautiful old castle of Scalloway, 
built by Earl Patrick Stewart about 1600, was spoiled of much of ite ancient gran- 
deur, by having ite dreraed freestones torn from their place, to supply door and win- 
dow jambs and lintels, and corner stones for this mansion. But the spoliulion of 
the castle, though ite foundation was laid in blood, and every stone of iu walls told 
of oppression, was not permitted to proceed without a fearful warning. While the 
work of demolition was busily going on, a voice, it is said, was heard to declare* 
*^ They might pull down and build up, but the fourth generation should never inha* 
bit! 



116 SHETLAND. 

No. of males under 7 years of age, 229 No. of females under 7 years of age, 221 

from 7 to 15, 192 from 7 to 15, 196 

15 to 90, 256 15tod0, 268 

a0to50, 201 a0to50, 264 

50 to 70, 96 50 to 70, 151 

above 70, 39 above 70, . 99 

Bachelors and widowers above 50, 21 



1086 1141 

The number of births during tbe last seven years is . 191 

deaths do. do. . . 148 

marriages do. do. . . 92 

fatuous persons, . . .12 

deaf and dumb, • • .2 

fiunilies, .... 425 

inhabited houses, * • 277 

No family of distinction or of independent fortune resides in the 
parish, and of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and 
upwards, — there are six. 

Character^ ^c. of the People. — The people in general are of the 
middle stature, and well-proportioned, having brown or yellow hair. 
Their features are rather small than otherwise, of an agreeable 
expression, and have nothing of that harshness which is character 
ristic of the Anglo-Saxon descent. Both sexes manifest an insati- 
able curiosity for prying into the concerns of others ; and with an 
acuteness scarcely to be credited, and a perseverance worthy of a 
better object. When the direct question and sly insinuation have 
failed, nothing daunted they will renew their efforts, and, if still 
unsuccessful, they will substitute their own conjectures for the in- 
formation withheld. 

They are hospitable to a proverb, and would share their last 
morsel with their neighbour, or even with a stranger whom they 
had never before seen. They have a gre?it volubility of speech, 
and are no mean adepts in flattery, when they think it will promote 
their particular views. Though many carry their passion for dress 
to an unbecoming and even an extravagant length, it gives me 
much pleasure to bear testimony to their general sobriety of con- 
duct, and attention to the external ordinances of religion. They 
may, with truth, be said to be a church-going people, and I trust 
many of them have felt the power of religion, are living under its 
influence, " and asking the way to Zion with their faces thither- 
ward." 

IV. — Industry. 
Arable Lands. — There are 777 merks of arable lands in these 
united parishes ; but the extent of a merk of land cannot now be as- 
certained. Originally it must have been very small, and have com- 



SANDSTIN6 AND AITHSTINO. 117 

prehended the infield or bear-land only. From the additions 
made by successive tenants, the merk of land has increased, in 
many cases, to eight or ten times its original extent. Besides the 
original arable land, and the successive additions made to it, there 
are no fewer than one hundred and four " outsetts" in the pa- 
rishes ; that is, when a tenant finds himself unable to pay his 
former rent, or when a newly married couple can obtain land in 
no other way, they fix upon some particular spot in the common 
pasture, — obtain leave from the principal proprietor of the nearest 
arable lands, and enclose as much ground as they think will sup- 
port their family ; and such an enclosure is called ^^ an outsett." 
Sometimes, the proprietor buildd the dwelling-house and dikes, and 
charges rent from the time of entry ; at other times, the tenant 
builds these, and sits rent free, for seven or nine years. 

Agriculture. — Agriculture may justly be said to be in its infancy 
in the parish ; and as long as the landlords continue to reduce the 
farms to the least possible size, no improvements can be expected. 
Farms which formerly were possessed by one or two tenants, are 
now occupied by five or six. There are only three ploughs in the 
parish, — one on the glebe, drawn by two oxen ; one in Reawick, 
and one in the island of Papa-Little, each drawn by four ponies. 
The plough used on the glebe is of Small's make ; the other two 
are made in Lerwick, after a pattern by Morton, Leith-walk. 
The Shetland plough, so minutely described by my predecessor, 
the Rev. Patrick Barclay, in his Statistical Account of the parish, 
is not now used. All the lands in the parish, with the exception of 
those just mentioned, are turned over with a small spade peculiar 
to the country. The harrows in general use are made of two pa^ 
rallel pieces of wood, about three feet long, with from eight to ten 
wooden teeth in each piece, and are connected at the ends by a 
cross bar of eighteen inches long. These are drawn by a man or 
woman, with a rope tied to each end of one of the parallel pieces 
or sides. There are some lands in the parish, on which even a 
wooden harrow has never been used. Instead of which, after the 
ground is delved, sown, and manured, a besom of heather is pro- 
cured, and a person sweeps mould, seed, and manure overhead. 

Crops. — The crops raised are potatoes, oats, and bear or big ; 
and the old distinction of infield and outfield is still continued. 
On the infield-land bear (having four or six rows of grain on the 
head) is sowed year after year, if we except as much of it as will 
grow the one-half of the potatoes the family may require. The 



118 SHETLAND. 

infield, when laboured for a crop of bear, is always well maDured, 
from a compost of cow's dung, earth, and sea-weed, when it can 
be got, prepared during the previous summer and harvest, and 
laid on the top and turned under. Dung is very seldom laid on 
that part of the infield which is laboured for potatoes, from an opi* 
nion that the potatoes are softer and more watery when the land 
has been dunged, than otherwise. By this management, it is evi- 
dent that the land must be greatly exhausted, and must require a 
very great addition to the usual quantity of manure, to yield any- 
thing like a tolerable crop, the following year. In some places, the 
infield has been sown with bear, year after year, and has never been 
known to produce any other crop, or once permitted to lie ley. 

The outfield is uniformly laboured to oats, with the exception 
of as much of it as will grow the remaining quantity of potatoes 
required for the family. Sometimes, though rarely, a little out- 
field bear is tried on the land that was laboured to potatoes, the 
previous year. All the outfield is manured, whether intended for 
a crop of oats or potatoes ; but with this difference, the oats are 
sowed first, and then the manure is carried and spread, and both 
are harrowed in together ; whereas the manure for the potatoes is 
spread on the stubble, and delved under. Sometimes, the pota- 
toes are planted in the furrow, and covered with the next feal ; 
and sometimes, the ground is delved first, and the potatoes dibbled 
in afterwards. The manure for the outfield is composed of cow's 
dung, earth carried from the hill during the summer or latter part 
of harvest, and sea-weed, when it can be got These are laid, in 
alternate layers, in small heaps over the lands intended to be 
brought under crop in the spring. When the voar or seed-time 
arrives, these are delved down and well mixed, as required ; and 
when a piece of ground is delved and sowed, some carry this ma- 
nure in straw baskets, called *^ cashies ;" others spread it with their 
hands, and one yokes himself or herself into the harrow. The 
ground delved in the course of the day is generally sowed, manur- 
ed, and harrowed in the evening. 

Potatoes. — In some places, especially in those situated near 
fresh-water lochs, the potatoes are liable to be injured, and some- 
times destroyed, by mildew ; but in general, they are a good crop, 
and much dependence is placed upon them. About a fourth part 
of the arable lands is cropped with potatoes. There is a great 
variety of potatoes in the parish ; but the best, both as regards, 
quality and quantity, is of a light red colour, streaked with white 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 119 

The method of cleaning the potato crop is rather imperfect. A 
little before or about the time the shoots begin to break the clod, 
the top weeds are turned up with the hand-hoe or spade, which is 
called ^^ shovelling the potatoes ;" and having lain for a few days 
to allow the weeds to wither, a double draught of the wooden har- 
row is given to tuni up such weeds as may not have been su£fi- 
ciently exposed. When the stems are advanced about six inches 
above ground, the hand-hoe is again employed, for choking or 
laying the earth to in drills. This is the last operation till they 
are taken up. The return, in ordinary seasons, of the potato 
crop may be stated at from ten to fifteen, and their price at Is. 6d. 
per barrel. 

Oats. — The oats in general use are the grey-bearded or old 
Scotch flavor. The grain itself is sweet, but, from the very im- 
perfect way of manufacturing it, the meal is never entirely freed 
from the black beard and dust. Within these few years, a num- 
ber of families in the parish have made trial of small quantities 
of Angus-shire early oats, obtained from the glebe, and they ac- 
knowledge that this is superior to the other, both in grain and 
straw. Notwithstanding these advantages, they refuse to use it as 
their general crop, from the idea that it is more liable to be shaken 
by the wind. This I have not found to be the case, though no 
other kind of oats have been sown on the glebe for many years. 

The way in which corn is prepared for meal is this : — every fa- 
mily has a small oblong kiln built in their barn, called a *^ cinny," 
which will dry about an half barrel of oats at one time. This 
kiln is furnished with ribs of wood. These are covered with oat- 
straw, called *^ gloy," and the grain laid on the top. In an open- 
ing about one foot square, in the end of the kiln, a gentle fire is 
kept up, till the grain is sufficiently dried. It is then taken off the 
kiln, put into a straw basket, made for the purpose, called a 
" skeb," and, while it is warm, well rubbed under the feet This 
operation is intended to separate the beard and dust from the 
grain. It is next winnowed between two doors, or in the open 
air ; put into another straw basket called a " budy," and carried to 
the mill and ground. When brought home from the mill, two 
sieves, a coarse and a finer, are made use of, to separate the seeds 
from the meal ; and it is twice sifted over, before it is fit for use. 
The coarse seeds taken out with the coarse sieve, the first time 
the meal is sifted, are given to the cows; and the finer seeds taken 
out with the finer sieve, the second time it is sifted, are reserved 



120 SHETLAND. 

for sowens. There is another kind of meal, called << burstane," 
prepared by drying the grain very hard in a pot This is usually 
ground on the quern or hand-mill. 

The price of seed-oats is from 9d. to Is. per stone of 17 pounds ; 
and the price of meal is generally from Is. 6d. to 2s. for the same 
weight. The merchants, when taking meal in barter for their 
articles, usually allow Id. per pound. 

Bear or Big* — Bear or big is generally cultivated in preference 
to barley, being esteemed more hardy, and less liable to be shaken. 
There are two kinds of bear, one having four rows of grain on the 
stalk, and the other having six. This latter kind is much shorter 
in the head than the former. Bear is prepared for meal in the 
same way as oats ; but it is allowed to cool, after being taken off 
the kiln, before it is rubbed. Seed- bear is sold from lOd. to Is. 
dd. per stone of 17 pounds; and bear-meal from Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. 
per stone. The manure of the bear-land is always prepared dur- 
ing the previous summer, so that it is allowed to rot for eight or 
ten months, before it is used ; and, instead of being laid on the 
top of the delved ground, it is delved under. 

Wheat — Wheat is a grain which has very seldom been attempt- 
ed to be raised in the parish. In 1821, a small quantity of spring 
wheat was sowed on the glebe, which strawed most abundantly, 
but was light in the grain. The following spring, another trial 
was made, with seed from the former year's produce ; but still a 
light crop as to grain, though the straw was abundant More 
sun, less fog, and a longer summer are required, before wheat 
crops can be cultivated with any prospect of success. 

Cabbage^ 4'c, — Cabbage, turnips, carrots, &c. thrive well in 
the gardens, but have never been cultivated to any extent in 
the fields. Cabbage are used as food for both man and beast, 
and considerable quantities of them are raised. Some families 
plant upwards of 3000. * They are all of the late or winter cab- 
bage, and their cultivation is confined entirely to the yards or 
gardens. Turnips of every description seem to agree well with 
the soil and climate ; but when a few of them are sowed in the 
fields, they must be taken up when the other crops are taken into 
the barn-yard. Carrots, &c. come to great perfection, and are 
particularly well flavoured. The want of enclosures, however, 
prevents the cultivation of these and other crops, which might be 
raised with advantage. 

Rotation of Crops. — Such a thing as a rotation of crops has 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 121 

never once been thought of, either by landlord or tenant. The 
want of enclosures, and the small size of farms, are adverse 16 
such a practice. 

Obstacles to Improvement. — It must appear, from what has al- 
ready been advanced, that this parish, and the islands in general, 
are very far behind in agriculture. Both soH and climate present 
great obstacles to improvement. None of the lands of the parish 
lie upon limestone, and no Ume is used as a manure, either simply 
or united with other substances. The lands are all laid in run- 
rig, whether they are the property of one or more proprietors, and 
this is the cause of much private, as well as open strife among the 
different possessors. While this system is continued, an insur- 
mountable obstacle is raised against every attempt at improvement. 
To obviate this, I have suggested to several of the landlords to 
lay off a certain portion of land to each tenant, in one spot, and 
to build his house on his own ground, and in a situation the most 
convenient. If this system was to be adopted, the tenants would 
soon see the necessity of division dikes between their little farms, 
and, I am convinced, would soon raise them. The lands also would 
be better drained, and rendered capable of a more improved system 
of husbandry. While a spirit of emulation would then be excited, 
small enclosures would spring up, enriched with a regular succes- 
sion of healthy and luxuriant crops. If the laird could be prevailed 
upon to adopt this course, his astonishment at the change that 
would soon be perceptible would be great 

Among the obstacles to improvement, must not be omitted the 
present ring-fences. These are, nowhere, efficient ; and it is only 
during the summer and harvest months that they are kept in to- 
lerable repair. As soon as the corns are put into the yard, every 
^^ grind" or gate is set open ; the dikes, in many cases, pulled 
down and suffered to continue in that state, till the young corn 
appears several inches above the ground. In the meantime, cows, 
horses, and sheep, are allowed to pasture at freedom, and swine root 
up 'and destroy what years of the best husbandry could hardly re- 
pair. There is little labour spent in draining ; and the few drains that 
are, being only surface drains, are filled up in winter, and the lands, 
of course, become a complete mire; so that, were it not the great 
quantity of new earth yearly carried from the hill or common, and 
formed into a compost with cow's dung and sea-weed, and laid 
plentifully on the land, no crops could be expected. 

The farms, in most cases, are very small, not exceeding three 



122 SHETLAND. 

or four acres, and therefore the tenant cannot be supposed to leave 
much unlaboured to acquire ley strength. The tenant also holds 
his small farm by such a precarious tenure, (from one year U> an- 
other), that little, if any improvement, can be expected from hiofi. 
And it is no uncommon thing, when a tenant has made all the 
improvement that could be expected from his slender means, that 
an offer of additional rent is made to the landlord, and he (the 
tenant) must either agree to pay the additional rent or remove, 
without any compensation. Under such a policy on the part 
of the landlord, spirited exertions in improving the lands can 
never be expected from the tenant. It may be observed, that the 
want of leases tends to keep the tenants in a very servile state. 
The landlord's will becomes the tenant's law, and if a disposition 
to resist should manifest itself, it is immediately subdued by a 
threatened warning of removal. Even in the few cases where there 
are missive tacks, the tenant can hardly be said to sit securely. There 
are so many ways by which the strong can get the better of the 
weak, that the saying, ^* the weakest are always driven to the wall," 
is verified to a considerable extent here. But perhaps the occupiers 
of small farms are not arrived at that stage of civilization, when it 
might be considered proper, or even safe, to trust them with all 
the immunities a tack would confer. 

In some cases ** grassums*' are taken, the injurious tendency of 
which has been felt, wherever they are known. They deprive the 
tenant of the earnings of his toil, — they damp his ardour in im- 
provement, and afford him no additional security ; while all that 
can be acquired in this small way, will '^ bulk little in a holed 
pocket !" 

The houses, in general, are mere huts; and if the landlord puts 
up a dwelling-house once, — tenant after tenant must be content to 
occupy it as he finds it, or to repair or build anew to himself. Few, if 
any of the landlords, build any of the office-houses; and the tenant 
always builds and keeps in repair, such as that repair is, the dikes 
around his farm. The great object of the landlord is to get his rent 
for his land, which, in many cases, it must be confessed, he has con- 
siderable difiiculty in obtaining ; but, at the same time, he cramps 
not the labour of the tenant with any restrictions, as to management, 
and leaves him at full liberty to employ, as the implements of his 
husbandry, the plough, the spade, or the snout of the swine. 

The climate and situation present formidable barriers to any 
thing like extensive improvement. The former can never be de- 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTINO* 123 

pended od for twenty-four hours together, and the latter is very 
damp, unsheltered, and, in many places, liable to be blasted both by 
mildew and sea-spray ; so that the most promising crops, in one 
hour, may be destroyed for both man and beast 

Woods. — There is a tradition that this country was, at one time, 
covered with wood; and this tradition is supported by the cir- 
cumstance, that pieces of wood are found imbedded very deep 
in the moss. I have found some branches of the birch, from 
six to eight feet long, about ten feet under the surface to the 
northward of the glebe. In different parts of the parish, there are 
to be found the creeping willow, the honeysuckle, the mountain- 
ash or rowan-tree, and the hip brier. The crawberry on the hills 
is very common, and in ordinary seasons comes to perfection. 
There are a few plants of the blaeberry which, in some seasons, 
blossom, but seldom carry fruit Gooseberries and currants (red, 
white, and black,) in favourable seasons, ripen vvell in the gardens* 

Cows. — An occupier of three merks of land will keep four milk 
cows, and in some cases six ; and in some very favourable situa- 
tions, from twelve to sixteen. The young cattle pasture on the 
hills or common scathold from the end of May till the beginning 
of November. On the hills or common scathold, an unlimited 
privilege of pasture is allowed ; and a tenant who, during the sum- 
mer months, can keep from four to six milk cows, will, during the 
winter, fodder from twelve to fifteen head of cattle, young and old. 
The milk cows pasture on the grass inside of the town in summer 
till twelve o'clock, when they are milked and driven to the hill ; 
and in the evening, are again taken inside of the town, where they 
feed a few hours, are milked, and put into the byre during the night 
The young cattle, when they are driven to the hill in the end of 
May, are never allowed to enter within the town dikes till about 
the month of November, when they are taken in and set to the 
band for the winter. It is a practice too prevalent, indeed I may say, 
general, to lay on more cattle than can be well supported ; and the 
consequence is, that part of the stock is frequently lost for want 
of food, and part of it is barely able to walk. It is evident that, by 
laying on too much stock, the people are great losers, as they can 
neither bring an adequate price for their cattle, if sold at Whitsun*- 
day, owing to the miserable condition in which they are, nor does 
the milk yielded repay even the expense of their half-starved keep- 
ing; the summer being well spent before the cattle have thrown off 
their winter coat, and assumed any thing like a decent appearance. 



124 SHETLAND. 

The cows, when compared with those of a more southern latr- 
tude, are small ; but, when on good keeping, give much more 
milk than could be expected from their size. Some of those on 
the glebe give about five quarts in the morning, three at mid- 
day, and five in the evening. The general food of the cows Id 
winter consists of a small ^^ hallow" or ^* wap" of straw between 
two, night and morning ; and if they are confined to the house by 
bad weather, they get as much at noon. The cows in calf, 
in addition to their stated diet, as above, get a few cabbage 
or potatoes cut down and mixed with a little bear-chaff or 
coarse seeds ; and frequently, in room of these^ a little meadow 
hay. All the cows are horned, and of every colour; but no at- 
tention whatever is paid to the rearing of a proper breed. Though 
the cold, bleak, and unsheltered pastures, and the want of a suffi- 
ciency of food, stint the animal in its growth and alter its form ; 
yet much good would result from the lairds taking an active in- 
terest in the concerns of their tenants, by offering small premiums 
for the best stock in general, or the best bull ; or by not allowing 
any animal to be kept as a breeder, which had not previously been 
approved of. 

The weight of a cow, when fed for slaughter, may be from 1 ^ 
to 2^ cwts. Cattle bought for slaughter are not considered a good 
bargain, if the beef exceeds ^d. or 2d. per lb. A cow in calf, 
at Whitsunday, if she can be recommended as a good one, will 
sell for L.d Sterling, and sometimes a little more. A farrow cow 
at the same season, Whitsunday, will sell from L.l, 10s. to L.2. 5s. 
Sterling ; but at Martinmas they may be purchased cheaper. Al- 
lowing on an average only three milk cows to each family, there 
will be in the parish not fewer than 1122. 

Those who keep four or more cows on their farms, chum once 
every day during summer; but the quantity of butter obtain- 
ed is not in proportion to the frequent churning. The cream is 
never gathered and churned. When the operation of churning 
is advanced to a certain stage, an heated stone is dropped into the 
churn, by which means the labour is shortened, and an addition 
made to the quantity, though not to the quality, of the butter. 
Part of the curd thus becomes incorporated with the butter, and 
presents a spotted (white and yellow) appearance. By very few, 
indeed, it must be acknowledged, is any attention paid to the dairy. 
This may arise partly from a portion of the rents being made pay- 
able in butter, and partly from want of proper milk-houses, and 



8AND8TINO AND AITHSTINO. 125 

due attention to the milk-vessels. So that one of the old country 
acts would require sometimes still to be enforced, which ordains, 
^* That no butter be rendered for payment of land rent, or for 
sale, but such as is clean from hairs and claud, and other dirt" 
The lairds, as part of their land rent, and the tenants, for their 
own use, consume the greater part of the butter that is made in 
the parish ; and the little that is sold will bring from 5d. to 6d. 
per pound of sixteen ounces. 

Into the butter-milk, or ^^ bleddick," is poured a quantity of boil- 
ing water, by which means the curd is separated from the serum. 
The former, called *^ kirn," is supped with sweet milk ; the latter, 
called ^^ bland," is used as drink, and is sometimes kept for several 
months, when it acquires a strong acidity. 

Ponies, — The Shetland poney is now so generally known as to 
require no particular description. It is of every colour, white, 
black, brown, grey, dun, cream, chesnut, and piebald, and of every 
size, from 28 to 44 inches. There are a great many of them kept 
in the parish, but very little work is performed with them. Few 
bring home even their peats with them, preferring the old prac- 
tice of bearing them home on their own backs in a ^^ casie.^ * 
Ponies are sometimes employed in carrying feals from the hill, to 
mix with cow's dung for composts; but are kept principally for storing. 
It is a rare occurrence to see an individual riding to church. In 
good keeping, it is well known that many of the Shetland ponies 
are of high mettle. " When the shelty is in his winter or spring 
garb, it is diiBcult to suppose that his progenitors were the same 
animals which travellers have described as prancing over the arid 
tracks of Arabia ; — the long shaggy hair with which he is clothed 
has more the appearance of a polar dress, or of some arctic livery, 
specially dispensed to the quadruped retainers of the genius of 
Hialtland."+ Instead of the sleek skin and handsome appearance 
which he displays with so much spirit in the summer months, in 
winter he is covered with a shagfiry coat, — his symmetry disappears, 
and all his motions are dull and languid. Notwithstanding all the 
privations he undergoes, he frequently lives to a great age. I 
have seen some upwards of thirty years old, and even at that 
age capable of performing a pretty long journey. No attention is 
paid to the breed. On the contrary, if one is remarkable for pro- 
portion or size, as it will fetch the best price, it is the one which 

* Caaie^ a stra^ basket used for carrying peats, manure, &c. 
t Uibbert*s Zetland. 



126 SHETLAND. 

is first sold. The poney is subject to few diseases. The most 
common are gravel and spavin. 

They vary in price from L. I, 10s. to L. 6 Sterling. If pro|)er 
attention was paid to the breed, I am convinced there would be 
found nowhere a finer race of animals. A considerable nuniber 
of them are yearly exported to Scotland and England. Former- 
ly, Orkney men were wont to come over and barter linen for po- 
nies ; but none of them have been in the practice of doing so for 
many years. Between Orkney and Shetland there is less commu- 
nication now, than there is between Shetland and any other part 
of Great Britain. 

Sheep. — The number of sheep kept in the parish is very great'; 
but what that number is, it is impossible to say. As every te- 
nant exercises an unlimited privilege of pasturage on the hills or 
scathold, unless the few who drive their sheep into the same 
** cruive" or " pund," no other person can possibly know the num- 
ber of sheep belonging to each individual. 

The native breed of sheep is very small, being in weight about 
20 or 24 lbs. of mutton, and carrying a fleece of from 1 to 1^ lbs. of 
wool. They are of the small-tailed race, and it is very rare to see 
a ewe with horns. They are of various colours, viz. white, black, 
grey, " catmogged," brown or " moorit," black and white, in equal 
proportions, or " Shilah," and piebald. Every neighbourhood has 
a particular pasture or scathold, on which their sheep feed, and 
each person knows his own sheep by their " lug-mark." That is, 
• one has a hole in the ear, another a ^' rift" or slit, another a 
** crook" or piece taken out of the ear, behind or before, &c. The 
same is the case throughout the parish, and no two persons in the 
parish are allowed to " lug-mark" their sheep in one way. Every 
neighbourhood has also a ** cruive" or pund, into which they drive 
their sheep, for the purpose of smearing them, taking of the wool, 
marking the lambs, and keeping them tame. When a stray sheep 
is found, the person who finds it takes care of it for a year and a- 
day, and if, after due proclamation at different churches, the 
owner is not discovered, it is sold, one-half of the price goinor 
to the persons who found it, and the other half to the poor 
.of the parish in which it was found. Those whose sheep pas- 
ture promiscuously are called " Scat-brither ;" and those who 
have a few sheep pasturing in any place when they reside at a 
distance from it, or perhaps not in this parish, are called " out- 
scat holders." 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 127 

The native breed of sheep in several places are beginning to 
be crossed with black and white-faced rams. Where the pasture 
is sound, either of the crosses answers very well, as both mutton 
and wool are improved in quantity ; but, wherever the pasture is 
deep and wet, they are invariably found not to be so hardy, or to 
thrive so well as the original breed. Such o£ the lambs as are 
strong, whether of the native or crossed breed, are allowed to fol- 
low the ewes during the winter ; but those that are not considered 
strong enough to stand the winter out, are taken into the house 
and fed till aboQt Whitsunday, when they are again driven to the 
hill. Some build small houses for the purpose of keeping their 
lambs in during the night, and in which they feed them, night and 
morning, with hay or cabbage, and occasionally with a few coarse 
seeds and cut potatoes ; but the more general practice is to keep 
them around the fire in the dwelling-hous6. No shelter is pro- 
vided for the sheep to which they might resort when inclement 
weather sets in ; and no provision is made for their support, when 
snow and frost prevent them from obtaining their ordinary scanty 
fare. 

When food is not to be obtained on the hills, instinct seems to 
direct them to another quarter. I have seen them when the tide 
began to ebb, hastening to the 9ea-shore, feeding upon the sea- 
weed growing on the rock or cast upon the beach, and when it be- 
gan to flow, returning to the hills again. 

An ewe for slaughter will sell for 4s. or 5s. ; a wedder from 6s. to 
8s. ; a ram lamb foi: Is. 6d. to 2s. ; and a ewe lamb, of the mid- 
dling size, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. The cross-breed sell considerably 
higher, but their mutton is neither so delicate nor their wool so 
soft. The wool is of various prices, from 6d. to Is. 3d. per lb. of 
^ sixteen ounces. It is not shorn, as in other places, but torn from 
the sheep's back by an operation called *' rooing." For the most 
part, two, and sometimes more persons pull the wool from the 
poor animal at one time. Sometimes, this is done with little 
trouble and as little pain ; but at other times, it may be said to be 
indeed a painful operation.* 

* It would appear, as Dr Edmonston, in his History of Zetland, remarks, that the 
sheep-flocks must have been much greater, at an early period than they are now. In 
a translation from the original Oanishy in the Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica* 
Antiquarian Society, are these woiids, ** Observe, that in the year of our Lord 1928, 
the 25th day of July, did Giafiddr Ivarson of Hialtland, pay to the Reverend Lord 
Audfin, the Lord Bishop of Bergen, andSwein Sigurdson, Comptroller of the King*t 
household, the tenths due to the Pope, vis. 22 cwt. of wool, less than 16 pounds, ac- 
cording to the standard of Hialtland, being 36 span Hialtland weight of wool.*' 



128 SHETLAND. 

The rams are generally let to the ewes about the beginning of 
December. 

The principal diseases to which the sheep are liable, are the 
Vinster, the Rot or green-sickness, the Sturdy, the Liver com- 
plaint, the Water or Quarquabus, the Blindness, and the Scab.* 

Swine. — Every fieunily keeps one, and many families keep two 
swine, which they feed and kill about Candlemas, for their own 
use. Several also keep herds of swine, which are sent to" the hill 
or common pasture during the summer, and are again admitted 
into the farms, as soon as the potatoes are reaped, to dig up and 
to turn down, in short, to commit every species of destruction at 
pleasure. When driven to the hill for the summer, they have no 
other food than such as they can procure for themselves, and con- 
aequently the best parts of the pasture are rooted up and destroy- 
ed. Roots of plants and earth-worms constitute the principal food : 
but occasionally birds' nests afford a savoury morsel ; but still 
more, a young lamb or a weak sheep. The native breed of 
swine is very small, vnth a long nose very cartilaginous, and 
small ears standing upright; and when he puts on his winter 
covering, a more ugly animal can hardly be conceived to exist. 
He has a profusion of long stiff bristles, and underneath a close 
coat of coarse wool. Of his bristles and wool a very strong 
and elastic rope is made, which is used for tethering horses and 
cows. Notwithstanding his revolting appearance, when well fed, 
be would disgrace no board. He is very delicate pork. 

A great improvement in the breed, both in appearance and size, 
has lately been introduced by means of swine brought to the 
islands by some of the Greenland ships. A young swine, fifteen 
days old, and of the native breed, costs from Is. to Is. 3d. ; and 
one of the same age, but of the improved breed, from Is. 3d. to Is. 
8d. A fiill grown swine, that is, one of from one to two years old, 
and of the native breed, when fed, costs 8s. or 1 Os. ; but some of 
the improved breed have sold as high as from L. 1 to L. 1, 1 0s. 
The usual selling price of pork, when fresh, is 2d. per pound. 

A young swine is here known by the name of a runny or grice ; 
one fed about the fireside, a patty ; one with young, a silik ; and 
a boar is called a gaat. 

They are liable to a complaint called the gricifer, which de- 
prives them of the use of their hinder legs. They very seldom 
if ever recover of it. 

• A particular description of these diseases will be found in the manuscript. 



SANDSTINO AND AITHSTING. 129 

Rent of Lands, — The rents of the lands in the parish are made 
up of so many different items, that it is almost impossible to ascer- 
tain their exact amount. These consist of cashies, fowls, days- 
works, butter, bear, schoolmaster's salary, teinds, seat-rent in 
church, scatt, land-rent, and, in some cases, fishing profits. But^ 
including outsets, they may be fairly stated at L. 1, 10s. Sterling 
per merk, which will make a total rental of the parish of 1^.1165, 
10s. Sterling. 

Bate of Wages, — The Rev. Patrick Barclay, in his Statistical 
Account, has stated, that ^< men servants get from L.15 to L.18 
Scotch,'' that is, from L.1, 5s. to L.!, 10s. Sterling, ** for three- 
fourths of the year." In summer they are employed in the ling- 
fishiog, and the boys on beaches. The men get from L.12 to 
L.24 Scotch ; boys from L.6 to L.10. Women servants get from 
L. 12 to L. 8, sometimes less, when they get liberty to spin and 
knit stockings, for their own behoof and emolument, at leisure 
hours. The yarn is generally spun at night, when they would be 
otherwise idle; and, when carrying dung, or travelling on the 
road, they are always knitting. Their service to the master is often 
very inconsiderable. Artificers are seldom paid by the day, and are 
always maintained by the employer. A mason has from lOd. to 
Is. 2d. a-day; his servants, 6d.; wright, lOd.; tailor, shoemaker, 
and boat'builder, are paid by the piece, and generally earn 8d. or 
lOd." The wages usually given to a man for about ten weeks 
on the ling- fishing is from L.2 to L.2, 10s. with victuals; and for 
a boy to assist in curing fish on a beach, with his victuals, 10s. 
or 12s. Sterling; and without victuals, about L.I. When he 
gets his food, he is bound to do any kind of work required, when 
not employed with the fish/ The wages of a man-servant, for 
farm-work, is from 12s. to L.1 Sterling for three months ; wo- 
men servants generally get Ss. for three months. The usual term 
of service is three months. The servants are in no respect im- 
proved, since my predecessor wrote ; neither will there ever be 
good servants, while the present system is pursued. They do 
not consider the obligation as mutual, but regard it as lying 
altogether on the side of the person who employs them. And 
when there is occasion to reprove them for having done wrong, 
the frequent answer is, ^^ I have no occasion to serve ; I can go 
home." 

The wages of a mason, with his victuals. Is. ; and without victuals, 
Is. 6d ; a wright with his victuals, Is. ; and without victuals, Is. 6d ; 

S UETLAND. I 



130 SHETLAND. 

a tailor with bis victuals, Is. per day. Making a pair of shoes for a 
woman, lOd. ; for a man. Is. and Is. 2d. Boat-builder, Is. for 
every foot of keel in small boats ; but when larger, the price ad- 
vances. A slater charges about L.1, 5s. per rood, or 2s. per day, 
without food. 

The wages of a man for farm* work, in spring or harrest, b 6d. 
a-day with victuals ; and a woman's wages 4d. 

Very few of the servants take any interest in their masters' ser- 
vice. With the greater part of them, the principal concern seems 
to be, to work as little as possible, and that not always in the best 
manner ; while meal-time and pay-day are well attended to. 

The usual charge for grazing an ox or cow, for about six 
months in summer, is from 6s. to 8s. ; the owner of the animal 
providing a tether. A young cow or ox foddered during the six 
winter months, costs about 5s. ; and a cow in calf, for the same time, 
from 8s. to iOs. Nothing is paid for foddering a farrow cow, her 
milk being considered to pay daily for the fodder she eats. When 
a cow in calf is given out, on the condition that the calf is to be 
reared, the person who receives her keeps her till Michaelmas, 
and then returns her, the calf remaining, which is afterwards con- 
sidered *^ havers'* property ; that is, the calf itself and its store to 
belong in equal portions to the owner of the cow and the person 
who reared the calf; and when sold, the price to be equally di- 
vided. 

Fisheries^ — The fisheries consist of ling, cod, and herring. 
The ling-fisbing is carried on in boats of about 18 feet of keel, 
and manned with six men. This fishing, twenty-five years ago, 
was much more extensive than it is now. At that time, thirty six 
boats of the above description were engaged in it ; now, there are 
only eight. The boats fish from the island of Papa Stour, as 
being much nearer the " haaf," or fishing ground. And before 
they commence fishing, perhaps eight or ten days, they repair to 
the island, and put in order the huts ^hich are to shelter them, 
when on shore, during the fishing season. Fishermen are allowed 
by law to build huts for their accommodation, while prosecuting 
the fishing, on any unenclosed or uncultivated land, at a distance 
of not more than 100 yards above high water-mark. These huts 
are very rudely built ; and the wood, pones, or divots, which form 
their roof, must be transported to the island. The usual practice 
is to carry home the roofs of the huts, when the fishing-season is 
over. 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 131 

The usual time for commencing the ling-Gshing is from the mid- 
dle of May to the beginning of June, and it continues till Lammas. 

When the men leave their homes on Monday morning, they 
carry with them a haddock-line, about 900 fathoms long, baited 
with mussels, which they set on their way to the fishing station, 
that they may procure bait for their long lines. Haddocks are 
always preferred as bait for the ling, when they can be procured. 
But when these are not to be got, they take the young seath, 
called piltocks, which generally abound about the shores in sum- 
mer ; and if these should fail, they bait their hooks with a piece 
of cod, task, or ling. The boats leave their stations for the 
haaf about ten o'clock a. m., and reach the fishing-ground about 
six o'clock p. M., during which time they will have run from forty- 
five to fifty miles, so that the highest land is only as a speck in the 
horizon, or as the fishermen express it, like a whilly* on the water. 
Every boat is furnished with a fleet of tows or lines, which may be 
thus described, one tow,bught, orline, fifty fathoms; sixteen tows, 
bughts, or line, one packie ; six packies one fleet. A fleet of 
tows, then,' is the number of lines which a boat carries. Every 
fleet of tows has four buoy ropes, of from 90 to 100 fathoms each, 
to which are attached stones of about 16 lbs. weight, called kap- 
pie or bolta stanes, to sink the lines, and keep them steady at the 
bottom. But besides these, every line has a sinking stone to it- 
self, about 2 lbs. weight, called a bighter. The four buoy-ropes 
are provided with sheep skin buoys. The hooks are made fast to 
a piece of line about four feet long, called a toum, and these are 
made fast to the tows, at a distance from each other of five fa- 
thoms ; so that on a fleet of tows, there are 960 hooks. The 
fishermen having arrived at the spot where they intend to set their 
lines, one man cuts the bait to the proper size, which is called 
sneezing the bait ; and two men bait alternate hooks, while the 
others row the boat in the direction the lines are intended to be 
laid. When the last buoy is put over the side of the boat, the 
men remain by it about three or four hours, if the weather be fa- 
vourable, before they begin to haul in their lines. If the weather 
threatens, they commence immediately to haul in, and always do 
so by beginning at the last buoy. One man hauls the lines, 
another strikes the fish as they come to the surface, with a clip f 
or huggie staflF, and takes into the boat, cavilsj the fish, and 

* '' Whilly/' the smallest size of boat. 

f '* Clip or huggie staff," a large iron hook fixed on a short wooden handle. 

^ *< Ca?il,'* to take the fish off the hook. 



132 SHETLAND. 

unoods* the hooks, and a third man guts and takes off the heids. 
The other three andow or shoughf the boat. 

When the men come ashore in the afternoon of the foltowingdaj, 
with eight score of ling, they consider they have made a good hauL 
This would average 16 cwt., for which they are allowed 5s. per 
cwt. They seldom make more than two trips to the haaf in 
the week; but when there is an appearance of fine weather, 
after hauling their lines, they bait their hooks, and set a seoood 
time. When the fish are landed, the fishermen have no more 
concern with them. They are split, salted, and dried at their 
landlord's expense. As soon as the boat arrives at the beach, one 
man goes to the lodge or hut, kindles a fire, and acts as cook ; 
while the others land the fish, and see them weighed. 

There is only one proprietor in the parish, whose lands are let 
on a fishing tenure. His tenants man seven boats, and caught, 
last year, about eight tons of dried ling, which sold for L.18 Ster- 
ling per ton. The boat and materials are divided into six shares, 
one of which the landlord, for the most part, holds, putting in a 
feed man, to whom he gives two lispunds of meal, and L.2 Ster- 
ling. The provisions which each fisherman takes with him for 
the season, are two lispunds of meal, two ankers of potatoes, a 
pork-ham, or a smoke-dried sheep, and an half lispund of dri^d 
boar. Of this, when knocked in a stone trough, which is carried 
to the fishing station with their other necessaries, they make broth. 
Tlioy have very little spirits either at sea or ashore, being preclud- 
ed from the use of that article by the high duty to which it is liable. 
Their usual drink is water, unless when they carry with thein from 
their houses on Monday morning, a small cask or jar with J)land. 

Johnsnias (!24th June, O. S.) is regarded by the fishermen as an 
holiday. Again, before striking their tents at Lammas, and bidding 
adieu to (he busy, bustling, perilous occupations of the summer, the 
fishermen who have been accustomed to associate together during 
the season, meet and take a parting cup, when the usual toast on 
the occasion is, ** Lord ! open the mouth of the grey fish, and 
hand thy hand about the corn." This meeting is known by the 
name of the fishermen's foy. Afler this, having nothing more to 
detain them, their huts are unroofed, bag and baggage are bundled 
into the boat, and wafted on the wings of a favourable breeze, 
they hasten to enjoy the smiles of their wives, and the innocent 

* ^* SiuhhU** to wrap the toum round Uichook. so tbat the line maj not be ruTcied. 
t *^ Andov or shough,'* to row the boMt stern fbreniost. 



SANDSTING AND AITH8TING. 133 

prattle of their bairns, and in them forget for a time the toils and 
privations of a fisherman's calling. 

Cod fishing. — The cod-fishing is prosecuted in sloops of from 
1 8 to 40 tons burden, of which there are eight in the parish, mak« 
ing a tonnage of 224 tons. They carry from nine to twelve men 
each, who hire the sloop for the fishing season, which begins at 
Whitsunday and ends at Lammas. The owner of the sloop re- 
ceives as hire, the half of all the fish caught, and oil made from 
their livers, and is bound to put and keep the sloop in a sea-wor- 
thy state. He also cures the fish, and the men pay for the cur- 
ing of their half, at the rate of 2s. Sterling per cwt, which is do* 
ducted when accounts are settled at the end of the season. It is 
always understood that the owner of the sloop is to have the pre- 
ference, on equal terms, to the purchase of the men's share offish 
and oil. Sometimes, a few men purchase a small sloop in partner- 
ship, and fish with her, taking in the additional men required, 
either as sharesmen, or giving them a fee, and sometimes giving 
them half share and half fee. All that is required to the prose- 
cution of the cod-fishing in a sloop, are two lines, about 100 fa- 
thoms, a lead of 3 or 4 lbs., with a scob, that is, an iron rod 
bent, two feet and a half long, passing through the upper end of 
the lead, to each end of which rod is affixed a short team and 
hook, baited with the large muscle or yoag. The weekly supply 
of bait is from 1600 to 2200. The usual price paid to the per- 
sons who dredge the bait is from 4d. to 6d. per 100, the expense 
of which is divided between the owner and men. The quantity 
of cod caught in a season varies from 5 to 18 tons, and the price 
paid in the country, for sometime, Vnay be said to have been sta- 
tionary at L.IO per ton. 

The men, for provisions, have 8 lbs. of oatmeal baked into 
cakes weekly, and two-thirds of a barrel of potatoes, and a supply 
of smoked pork or mutton for the season, and as much fresh fish 
as they choose to make ready. The fish heads and small fish are 
carried home for the weekly supply of their families. 

The men are bound to bend the rigging and sails, and ballast 
the sloop before going to sea; and when the fishing is over, unrig 
and dry ropes and sails, heave the ballast, clean the vessel, and 
draw up and secure her for the winter. The fish livers are now 
melted into oil, and divided between owner and men. 

Iterringfishing, — The attention of the British Government 
seems to have been directed, at an early period, to the fishing 



134 SHETLAND. 

and curing of herrings. Bounties were held out as a stimulus to 
engage in this trade ; but while, on the one hand, it was patroniz- 
ed and apparently encouraged, the restrictions laid on the out6t 
of the vessels to be employed in it, not only cramped the energies 
of the fisherman, but even deterred him from prosecuting a fish- 
ing which, he plainly foresaw, would involve him in difficulty and 
debt. The consequence has been, that never, till very lately, has 
any attempt been made unless in the dead water in the Yoes, to 
set an herring net. Mr James Garrick in Reawick, was the first 
in this parish who set a spirited example in the herring-fishing. 
He purchased a few second-hand boats from Wick, each of which 
carried about twenty nets, and with these was ve^ successfuL The 
herrings caught are of an inferior quality, being mostly spent, and 
the season being too far advanced before the fishing commences. 
The cod-fishing is carried on till Lammas, and the herring-fish« 
ing does not begin till after the middle of August Liast year, 
upwards of 700 barrels of herrings were caught The general price 
given for herrings when boat and nets belong to the fishermen is 
6s. fid. per cran. But when boat and nets are provided and kept in 
repair, for these the owner retains the half, and pays the fishennen 
2s. 6d. per cran for their half. In this case, the fishermen incur 
no expense and no risk. This fishing continues about six weeks, 
and during that time, some of the boats have caught 180 crans. 

Manufactures, — Formerly, a great quantity of kelp was manu- 
factured in the parish, perhaps not less than 130 tons. But since 
barilla was introduced, kelp has declined so much in value, that 
the price obtained cannot now pay for the making of it 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
There is no market-town nearer than Lerwick, which is distant 
about sixteen miles, with two arms of the sea intervening. No 
post-office ; and when a letter is to be sent or received, a person 
must be sent expressly for the purpose to Lerwick, the post-town, 
to whom is paid from Is. fid. to 2s. Sterling, according to the state 
of the weather. There is nothing resembling a road in the parish, 
unless a piece which I made some years ago, through the glebe, and 
carried on about half a mile towards the kirk. But there is a de- 
cided disinclination to walk on the road, because it wears the rive- 
lins too fast, and because a road would imply a restriction to a 
particular path ; whereas the Shetlander's delight is to range un- 
controlled, and " to wander as free as the wind on his mountains.'* 
The fences are very inefficient, and being built, for the most part. 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTINO. 135 

of feals, and intended to last for a part of the year only, they may 
be mentioned as one of the obstacles to improvement 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is very inconveniently 
situated, as before observed ; and a considerable proportion of the 
population is distant from it about seven miles of marshy road, 
and many of them impeded by arms of the sea. The kirk is seat- 
ed for 437 persons ; and no fi«e sittings allowed. 

The manse was built in 1817; a very insufficient and inconve- 
nient house^^-so much so, that when the presbytery and heritors 
met to have it declared free, an heavy fail of rain having taken 
place during the previous night, stepping-stones were laid along 
the passages and lobby, that they might not wet their feet. Two 
years af^er, it received a new roof. The ends of the joists have 
twice been rotted out of the walls, and two floorings laid, since 
that time. The manse was finished with the very worst descrip- 
tion of planted fir from the north of Scotland. The office-houses 
have stood condemned, by the report of tradesmen, for a number 
of years. 

The glebe is nine merks, and would rent at about L. 12 Ster- 
ling. It is not good land; but its hill privileges are extensive and 
good. The stipend payable from the lands in the parish is 
L.1i5, 9s. 6d., and from Government L.42, 17s. 2d. Sterling, in- 
cluding L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. 

There are two Independent meeting-houses ; to one of which 
no preacher is appointed, and the other has not been opened for 
some years, — the members being so very few, they meet in the 
preacher's dwelling-house. This individual has the small sum of 
L. 5 per annum allowed him by the Congregational Union, and 
acts as factor to one of the principal proprietors. In the other, 
worship is sometimes conducted by a regular preacher; but for 
the most part, one or mofe of the members " divine the word,"* 
as they feel disposed. The numbers who are joined with the In- 
dependents, may be stated about 40. 

There is one Methodist meeting-house, in which sermon is ap- 
pointed to be once a month, but is not regularly given. The mem- 
bers in communion with the Methodists are between 50 and 60. 
Both Independents and Methodists have not manifested the great- 
est desire to promote the religious instruction of the people of Sand- 
sting, because, instead of building their meeting-houses in the 

* A favourite expression of some of their members. 



1 3G SHETLAND. 

most destitute quarters of the parish, they have placed ibem with- 
in a mile from the Established kirk. 

Divine service at the Established kirk is generally well attend- 
ed ; and the average number of communicants may be stated at 
500. Neither Independents nor Methodists are increaMog in 
numbers; they are rather declining. Their meetings are pretty 
well attended in the evenings, or when there happens to be no 
sermon at the parish kirk. 

Education, — There are nine schools in the parish, viz. one paro- 
chial, one Assembly, two from the Society in Scotland for Propagat- 
ing Christian Knowledge, and 6ve supported by individual sub- 
scription. The parochial school was built in 1808^ and cost 
L.105 Sterling. The accommodations provided are barely what 
are appointed by law, in number ; but, in quality, would not be 
considered by any unconcerned person to approach near to it* 
The school and school-house have thatched roofs, which, by some 
agreement entered into between the teacher and heritors, the for* 
mer is bound or has agreed to uphold. For this he is allowed 
some fractional part of a penny. About one rood of barren mossy 
ground was set off for a garden, which was valued to the proprie- 
tor from whose lands it was taken, at L.6 Sterling, including peat 
ground. All that it is capable of producing, are a few dwarf cab- 
bages, or a few sheaves of gray-bearded oats. The accommoda- 
tions for a number of years have been in a state of great disrepair; 
but the teacher is to blame, in not having applied to the Quarter 
Sessions to enforce such repairs as competent workmen should de- 
clare necessary. The schoolmaster has a salary of L.26 Sterling 
per annum. Branches of instruction taught are, reading, writing, 
arithmetic, and book-keeping. Stated fees for reading, Is.; read- 
ing, writing, and arithmetic, Is. 6d. ; and book-keeping, 5s. All 
the fees received would hardly amount to L.1, 10s. per annum. 

The five schools supported by individual subscription are at 
Sand, Aith, Clousta, Culswick, and West Burrafirth. The three 
former are taught by men who, besides common reading, can in- 
struct their scholars in writing and the first rules of arithmetic The 
two latter are taught by women who profess to teach reading only. 
At these five places schools, on a permanent footing, are much 
needed ; and a small salary, if certain, would secure the services 
of teachers at these stations, qualified for all the duties which would 
be required of them. At present, they are supported by the fa- 
milies in the respective quarters ; but as soon as the teachers can 



8ANDSTIN0 AND AITHSTING. , 137 

turn their labour to better account, the schools are thrown Tacant, 
and, before other teachers can be provided, the children have lost 
a great 'part of what they had learned. I may here be allowed to 
observe, that a school situated in any particular district in the pa- 
rish can benefit only that particular district in which it is placed. 
The parish is very extended, and the population is placed, for the 
most part, around the outskirts of it. For this reason it is that 
the benefits of a school are confined to those alone who reside in 
the immediate neighbourhood of it The people in general ma- 
nifest an anxiety to have their children educated ; and yet, when 
they have the means in their power, do not improve them to the 
extent which they might There are no children arrived at an 
age capable of being instructed, who cannot read. 

Charitable Institutions. — A fund was established in 1810, called 
<< The Shetland Fisherman's Fund,^ which had foritsobject the re- 
lief of old and decayed fishermen, and the widows of fishermen. Its 
supporters at first were themore wealthy in the country, andan year^ 
ly payment of 2s., in addition to 2s. paid by every fisherman on his 
being enrolled a member. Aged fishermen have been receiving 
from 5s. to 7s., and widows 14s. yearly. It is managed by twelve 
general directors, one representing each parish, and by parochial 
committees. 

Poor and Parochial Fitnds. — The relief afforded to the poor 
arises altogether from church-dpor collections, the amount of which 
may be stated at L.10 Sterling. Out of this, the average number 
of poor persons who receive aid is about 25, and the extent of aid 
afforded to them varies from 36. to 12s. yearly. Housewives, who 
are active and industrious, receive occasionally a small sum as a 
reward for their activity and industry. The small sum allowed to 
the stated poor would be altogether inadequate for their support 
if the people did not, in addition to the Sabbath offerings, contri- 
bute cheerfully in another way. The kirk-sefiBion divides the parish 
into as many sections as there are poor persons. In each of these, 
a poor person is stationed, who generally remains in each family 
one day for every merk of land which they rent, and receive victuals 
and lodging ; while the small pittance received from the session is 
laid out in the purchase of clothes. 

There are more applications for admission to the poor's roll 
than can be sustained, and the receiving of parochial aid is consi- 
dered no degradation. 

Fairs. — That the people may obtain a more ready sale for their 



13% SHETLAMK 

estn ttock of oo« and borses» I 1b>^ ^wjHiips adfertned and 
iuperioteiided a »le al Whitsanday and Maitinmas, which is the 
ofilv resemblaDee to a £ur ever held. At both these seasons, a 
niuuber of persons, from the pcighboaripg paiishfis attend, eqpe* 
ciaily from the parish of TingvalL 

AU-komMM. — Theie are tvo ale-houses,— one in Sandstinfc and 
the other in Aithsting ; but no bad eflfects are apparent from them. 
There is no propen^y in the people, generaUj, to indulge to ex« 
cess in spirituous liquors. 

FueL — Peats are the ool; fuel used in the parish ; and they are 
abundant. In digging for peats, there is abundant evidenoe that 
mouDtain-ash or rowan-tree, birch, hazel, and willow or saugh, 
hare, at one time, flourished oTer a great portion of the country. 

Miscellaneous Obsertations. 
Neither rye-grass nor clover are cultivated, nor can be raised with 

any degree of success, till dikes are built, capable of defending from 

the encroachments of man and beasL Both these plants spring up 

naturally in many places, — the former called acr«-a-AiaiA, and the 

latter »morra. There is a considerable quantity of bog-meadow 

ground, the grass of which is cut yearly about Lammas, and dried 

for hay. In general, it is much wasted before it is stacked ; from 

the idea, that if the juices are not, in some measure, washed out 

before it is put together for the winter, it will take heat and rot. 

The scythe in use does not exceed fifteen inches, and some are 

not more than twelve inches in length. It has a straight haft, 

with one handle, and the mower stands nearly upright. The 

upper part of the haft rests on the bend of the arm ; the left 

hand holds the handle, and the right hand grasps the haft. Some 

mowers wield the little instrument ver; dexterously, and cut down 

more grass than could be imagined, with such a diminutive tool. 

The sickle is of very small dimensions. I have seen the reaper 
make from thirty-five to forty cuts with it, before the hand was fil- 
led with corn. Both scythe and sickle are made in the parish. 

Cottages. — The cottages are of rather a rude description ; and 
in wet weather, somewhat diflScult of access, if there be any de- 
sire to keep the feet dry and clean. They are usually built of 
stone with dry mortar, and over the couples and rafters is laid a 
covering of pones or divots, and sometimes of flaws. Over these 
is laid a covering of straw, which is secured by ropes of the same 
material, or of heather, called " simmins." The dunghill occu- 



SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 139 

pies a place as near the door as possible, that it may be enriched 
with the general soiling. And frequently before the door of the 
dwelling-house can be reached, a passage must be made through 
the byre. For the most part, the furniture is so arranged as to 
form a but and a ben ; but chimneys are little known. Instead 
of these, some houses have from two to six holes in the roof to 
admit light and allow the escape of smoke. The better to pro- 
mote this latter, a piece of feal or divot, or two pieces of board 
joined at right angles, called a skyle, is placed on the weather 
side of the hole ; and instead of mounting on the roof every time 
the wind shifts, some have a pole reaching down inside, by which 
this operation is performed. The order for doing this is ^* skyle 
the lum." 

When an opening is left for a window, it is sometimes filled up 
with a bladder, or untanned lambskin freed from the wool, stretched 
on a frame. In the but or kitchen end of the house, in addition 
to the family, there are usually two dogs, as many cats, a patty 
swine, a calf, and some half dozen of caddy lambs. * 

Value ofLandy ^c. — The Rev. Patrick Barclay, in his account 
of the parish, remarks, that ^* the superiors formerly had many 
ways of procuring property in Shetland. Patrick, Earl of Ork- 
ney, in a disposition of the lands of Sand to Jerom Umphray, 
narrates, that he had evicted seven merks of that land from Fowl 
Nicholson in Cullswick for stealing a swine, and that he had 
evicted six merks from â–  in Cullswick for stealing bolts 

from his Lordship's trood, — probably some piece of wreck which 
had been drawn into CullswicL In that same disposition, the 
Earl grants receipt for the money from Jerom Umphray, at the 
rate of L. 17, 16s. Scotch," L. 1, 9s. 8d. Sterling, << per merk 
land, being full land's price at the time." The lands in Sand 
now rent at as much yearly per merk as the sum above specified 
to have been their purchase*price in 1600. 

About 1700, an island, with fifteen scores of sheep, was pur- 
chased for the sum of L. 30 Sterling, the yearly rent of which is 
now about L. 60 Sterling. In 1633^ an ox for slaughter cost 
L. 1 ; a fat sheep from 2s. to Ss. 6d. In 1738^ a lispund, or 
36 lbs. of meal, cost Is. 8d. ; a cow in calf, 17s. 6d. ; fee of pre- 
centor and session-clerk, 10s. ; oflScer, 5s. ; presbytery-oflScer, 
Is. 3d. 1746, dues of proclamation, 6d. ; making a grave> 

* Lambs wintered and fed in the house ; a lamb which has lost its dam, and is 
reared on cow*8 milk, i» also called a caddj. 



140 SHETLAND. 

6d. 1748, a cow in calf, L. 1, ds. 4cL ; Dursiog a cKiId twelTe 
months, 16s. 8(L 1750, front seat in kirk capable of accom- 
modating six or eight persons, Is. 4d. ; beef, mutton, and pork, 
three- farthings per lb. ; a goose, 5d. ; and a fowl, 2d. 1758^ an ell 
of Shetland claith or blanketing, lOd. 1779, eggs per dotfen. Id.; 
and salted tusk. Id. each. 1780, bed and board in Lerwick 
per day, 6d. ; slater's wages. Is. ; and server, 6d. per day. 1781, 
woman-servant's wages for six months, 6s. 8d. 1782, a pair of 
shoes for a woman, 2s. 6d. ; for a man, ds. ; voar (three noonths 
in spring), fee for a man, 5s. 1783, 100 herrings, 6d. ; grazing 
a cow. Is. 6d. ; making a suit of clothes, 5s. 6d«; butter, (one 
lispund, or 36lbs.), 7s. ; a fat wedder, 2s. 6d. ; an ewe, Is. 6d. ; 
a hen, 2^d.; a cock, 1^ Most of these articles now cost double 
of what is stated above. 

Weights and Afeasures. — The instrument in general use for 
weighing is called a ** bysmer :" It weighs from one to twenty- 
four merktf. One and one-fourth or half-pound make a merk, and 
twenty- four merks make one lispund. The lispund weight varies 
in different parishes, and even in different parts of the same pa- 
rish, from 02 to 40 lbs. Dr Barry, in his History of Orkney, has 
given a particular description of the ** bysmar," which I shall here 
transcribe. ^' The bysmer is a lever or beam of wood, about three 
feet long ; and from one end to near the middle, it is a cylinder of 
about three inches diameter, thence it gently tapers to the other 
end, which is not above one inch in diameter. From the middle, all 
along this smallest end, it is marked with small iron pins, at un- 
equal distances, which serve to point out the weight, from one 
merk to twenty-four, or a lispund. The body to be weighed is . 
hung by a hook in the small end of the instrument, which is then 
suspended by a cord* around it, held in the hand of the weigher, 
who shifts it towards the one end or the other, till the article he 
is weighing equiponderates with the large end, which senses it as 
a counterpoise ; and when they are in equilibrio, the pin jiearest 
the cord points out in the marks the weight of the subject weighed/* 
Grain and meal manufactured in the parish are weighed, and 
bought and sold by " bysmer" weight." 

Measures, — These are a " can," by which oil is measured, and 
which contains one gallon ; the anker, or third part of a barrel, 
by which potatoes are measured ; and the ell, by which Shetland 
♦* claith" is measured. 

* This cord is tied round the ends of a round piece of wood, about four inches 
loDgi *nd ^®^^ ^^ ^^® hand, and is called ** the snarl.** 



SANDSTINO AND AITHSTIKO, 141 

Superstitions, — A considerable prumber of. the people believe 
in and practise many superstitious rites. The fishermen, when 
about to proceed to the fishing, think they would have bad 
luck, if they were to row the boat " withershins'' about They 
always consider it necessary to turn her with the sun. Neither do 
they give the same name to most of the things in the boat, and to 
several on shore, by which they are usually known. But supersti- 
tious observances are not confined to the men only, their wives 
also share in them, and even carry them to a greater extent. 
These are practised chiefly, in attempting to cure diseases in man 
and beast, or i« taking away the ^^ profits" of their neighbour's 
cows ; that is, in appropriating, by certain charms, to their own 
dairy, the milk and butter which should have replenished that of 
their neighbour. I shall subjoin a few specimens.* 

* WreUing T^reoJ.— When a penoD has receired a sprain, it is customary to apply 
to an individual practised in casting the '^ wresting thread.** This is a thread spun 
from black wool, on which are cast nine knots, and tied round a sprained leg' or arm. 
During the time the operator is putting the thread round the affected limb, he says, 
but in such a tone of voice as not to be heard by the bystanders, nor even by the per. 
son operated upon, 

*« The Lord radc. 
And the foal slade ; 
He lighted. 
And he righted. 
Set joint to joint. 
Bone to bone. 
And sinew to sinew. 
Heal in the Holy Ghost's name!** 
Airi^trorm.— The person afflicted with ringworm takes a little ashes between the 
forefinger and thumb, three successive mornings, and before having taken any food 
and holding the ashes to the part affected, says, 

** Ringworm ! ringworm red I 
Never mayest thou either spread or speed ; 
Qut aye grow less and less. 
And die away among the ase,*' (ashes,) 
at the same time, throwing the little ashes held between the forefinger and thumb 
into the fire, 
^urn.— To cure a burn, the following words are used :— 

** Here come I to cure a burnt sore ; 
If the dead knew what the living endure, 
The burnt sore would burn no more.** 
The operator, after having repeated the above, blows his breath three times upon tlw 
burnt place. The above is recorded to have been conununicated to a daugfa^r who- 
had been burned by the spirit of her deceased mother. 

Fey Folk It is a practice with some to bum the straw on which a corpse has 

lain, and to examine very narrowly the ashes, from a belief that the print of the in- 
dividual's foot, who is next to be carried to the grave, will be discovered. The straw 
is set on fire, when the body is lifted and the funeral company are leaving the house. 
Elf-shot, — A notion is prevalent in the parish, that when a cow is suddenly takrn 
ill, she is elf shot ; that is, that a kind of spirits called '' trows,** different in their 
nature from fairies, have discharged a stone arrow at her, and wounded herewith it. 
Though no wound can be seen externally, there are different persons, both tioales and 
females, who pretend to feel it in the flesh, and to Cu^e it by repeating certain irordi 
over the cow. They also fold a sewing needle in a leaf taken flxnn a particular part 
of a psalm book, and secure it in the 1^ of the cow, which is oonsideredy not only 



142 SHETLAND. 

at an infiillibie cure, but which alto tenret as a charm against future attacks. This is 
nearly allied to a practice which was at one time very prevalent, and of which aume 
traces may perhaps still exist, in what would be considered a more civiliaed part of 
the world, of wearing a small piece of the bnmch of the roan-tree, wrapped around 
with red thread, and sewed into some part of the garments, to guard against tbe cf- 
fecU of an ** evU eye,** or witchcraft, 

** Roan-tree and red thread 
Will drive the witches a* wud.** 
When a cow has calved, it is the practice with some, as soon after as potsiblc* to set a 
cat on her neck and draw it by the tail to the hinder part of the cow ; and then to 
set it on the middle of the cow*s back, and draw it down the one side and pull it up 
the other, tail foremost, that the cow may be preserved while in a weak state, from 
being carried away by the " trows.*' This is enclosing the cow, as it were, in a ma- 
gic circle. 

As the trows are &aid to have a particular relish for what is good, both in meat and 
drink ; so when a cow or sheep happens to turn sick or die, it is firmly beHeved thai 
they have been shot by an elfin-arrow, and that the real animal has been taken away 
and something of a trowie breed substituted in its place. And tome who have been 
admitted into the interior of a trow*s dwelling, assert that they have beheld their own 
cow led in to be slaughtered, while, at the tame time, their friends on the surlhee of 
the earth, sow her fall by an unseen hand or tumble over a precipice. Sometimes, 
also, the trows require a nurse of their children, for it would appear, they too baTe 
a'time to be born and a time to die, and therefore females newly confined mutt needs 
be watched very narrowly, lest they be carried off* to perform the ofilce of wet-nurse 
to some trowling of gentle blood, who has either lost its mother, or whose station 
among her own race, exempts her from the drudgery of nursing her own ofispring. 

There is one place in the parish, called " Trolhouland,** a name which indicates the su- 
perstitious notions with which it is associated : it signifies ** the high laud of the trows.** 
I'he internal recesses of knolls are considered the favourite residences of the trows, 
and they are seldom passed without fear and dread by the inhabitants of the upper 
world. And when, after nightfall, there may be a necessity for passing that way, a 
live coal is carried to ward otT their attacks. For many centuries, the same supcrsti* 
tious belief has prevailed in Norway, that certain places were the favoured haunts of 
malcvulent jjenii. There is their ** Trolhetta ;" and in Iceland, '• Troladyngiar,** 
and " Trollakyrkia.'* 

Taking away and recovciing Milk and Butter profits, — That a person may take 
away and procure for herself the summer profits of her ncighbour*s cows, it is the 
practice to go clandestinely nnd pluck an handful of grass from the roof of the byre, 
and give it to her own cows, thereby supposing tliat the milk and butter which should 
have been her neighbour's, will by this means become hers. And, in order to regain 
the profits which arc supposed to have been taken away, it is usual to milk in private 
a cow belonging to the person who is suspected of having taken them, and thereby to 
get them back. 

AVo^/r..— There is also a *' trow** called a " Ncaglc,*' somewhat akin to the wa- 
ter-kelpie of other lands, who makes his appearance about mills, particularly when 
grinding, in the shape of u beautiful poney. That he may attract the attention of 
the person who acts the part of the miller, he seizes and holds fast the wheel of the 
mill ; and, as is natural, the miller goes out to examine into the caufcc of the stop> 
page; when, to his astonishment, a beautiful poney saddled and bridled, is standing, 
and ready to be mounted ; who but an old miller could let slip such a fair opportunity 
for a ride? But if he should neglect warnings, and unguardedly put his foot in 
the stirrup, his fate is sealed. Neither bit or bridle avail him any thing. Off goes 
the poney, bog or bank arrest not his course, till in the deep sea he throws his rider 
and himself evani&hes in a flash of flame. But some millers are proof against the 
temptation, having been taught caution by the fate of others; and instead of taking 
a ride, salute his Neogleship with a fiery brand through the lightning- tree hole, 
which makes him immediately scamper away. 

Such are some of the prevailing su))erstitious notions, which have no doubt been 
derived from the early Scandinavian settlers, and which, there is as little doubt, were 
fostered and made gain of, till the time of the Ucformation, by the lower orders of 
the Roman Catholic clergy. And, if they should still retain a hold, to a certain ex- 
tent, in the minds of son. e of the more ignorant, we need not be much surprised. 
But that those who have received a more liberal education, and consequently should 
be better able to appreciate the truths of Christianity, should lend their influence to 
foster such notions, would hardly be credited in the nineteenth century, if facts did 



SANDSTIN6 AND A1THSTINO. 143 

not confirm the allegation against them. The following document, which T obtained 
possession of at the kirk tloor before it was made public, and which was issued and 
signed by four members of the Morton Lodge in Lerwick, requires no comment* 
Though for certain reasons 1 withhold names, the authors justly deserve to. be held 
up to general scorn. 

** At a meeting held in Morton I^ge, at Lerwick, upon the 18th day of August 
1815, it was reported and faithfully declared upon oath, by M. B. in Easting parish 
in Shetland, that an woollen web, the property of M. B., shirts and other things also 
of great value belonging to M. B. ; as also, many suits of mutches, which belonged 
to M. B. i all these, as above stated, has been stolen from thegre^ ofC. during the 
first part of this present month. Notice is hereby given, that cruelty forms no part 
of masonry, yet justice to the injured party must be done, and that it' these things so 
stolen are not returned back before next meeting of masons upon that business, or at 
furthest, in fifteen days from this date, a calamity of a severe nature may fall on all,that 
parish in which the present crop may be blasted by storm, and the person or persons 
guilty shall be publickly led throw the parishes in the neighbourhood on day light* 
and that by evil spirits not seen by others. This paper to be intimated at the kirk 
door, that none may plead ignorance. Given under our hands at Lerwick, by autho- 
rity of Morton Lodge." 

1 shall I add one instance more of superstitious belief, which appears to have ta« 
ken a firm bold of the mind of the Shetlander, at a very early period ; and which, 
like the others abo\e enumerated, still retains its hold, though, perhaps, under some 
modifications. It is called ** casting the heart.** It has long been believed, thai 
when a person is emaciated with sickness, his heart is worn away, or taken away by 
some evil genii. A person skilled in ** casting the heart*' is sent for, who, with 
many mystic ceremonies, melts lead, pours it through the bowl of a key or pair of 
scissors, belJ over a sieve, which is also placed over a bason of cold water. The lead 
is melted and poured again and again, till it assumes something like <he appearance of 
an heart, at least the operator strives to convince the patient and his friends that this 
is the case. It is worn, suspended from the neck, next the skin, that the cure may 
be completed. The ceremony, as described by Miss Campbell of Lerwick* is as.ibl. 
lows :— 

" When people arc afflicted with consumptive complaints in Zetland, they imagine 
that the heart of the person so afilx-ted has been wasted away by the enchantment 
of the tUiries, or witchcraft of some other evil beings. Old women, and sometimes 
men profess to cure this disease. The patient must undergo the following curious 
and very ridiculous operation : He is directed to sit upon the bottom of a large cook- 
ing pot, turned upon its mouth ; a large pewter dish is placed or held upon his head ; 
upon the dish a bason or bowl is set nearly full of cold water ; into this water the 
operator pours some melted lead through the teeth of a common dressing comb. A 
large key is also employed in this operation. All this b performed with many strange 
incantations and gesticulations, if the lead falls into a shapeless lump, they declare 
that the heart and lungs of the patient are completely wasted away ; that they will 
have infinite trouble, and perhaps, af^cr all, will not be able to bring back the heart 
and lungs to their natural and healthful form. The lead is again melted, and run into 
the water through the teeth of the comb ; it most likely assumes some shape, which 
the operator assures the spectators is the exact forn) of the patient's heart in its dis- 
eased state. The lead is repeatedly melted, and poured through the comb into the 
water ; every time it is asserted to be more and more like the natural heart and lungs, 
and the bewitchment, of course, is rendered weaker an i weaker. The patient under* 
goes this three times, with some days between each operation. When the last cast of 
the lead is over, the operator shows it round, and points out how exactly every part 
of the heart and lungs are restored to their natural and proper shape. If the patient 
dies (perhaps his death is hurried on by the fatigue and agitation occasioned by this 
mummery), his death is ascribed to some oversight in the strict performance of all 
the relative parts of this casting of the heart. The moon must be at a certain age, 
and it must be performed nt a certain turning of the tide and hour of the night ; 
numberless other things must be attended to. l*he operator will take anything ihey 
please to give, if it should be the half of all their goods and chattels, but he must not 
touch money. He appoints, however, a particular place, where a Danish coin, worth 
fivepence current in Zetland, is to be laid (as many as they like — the more the better, 
no doubt) ; this money is for the fairies, who come, it is asserted, and take it away ; 
but the poor honest operator must not, and will not finger it, otherwise his trouble 
would come to nought, and the spell that bound the patient would be firmer than ever. 



144 SHETLAND. 

« 

This operation of eastinp; the heart is pcrfbnned to this day in some parta of the 
Zetland Isles, and implicit belief placed in its efficacy. The patient must wear the 
lead, which has been used, in bis bosom, for some time after the qperation.*'-^Mis8 
CaropbelPs Harley Haddington. 

Even so late as the beginning of the last century, visitors were frightened to ap- 
proach the shores of Shetland, for fear of being brought under the influeDce of the 
spells of witches and warlocks : And by the old country acts, the ranselmen were en- 
joined to seek out and bring to condign punishment, all persons who made use of 
any manner of witchcraft, charms, or any other abominable or devilish auperstitiona. 
The signs by which persons might be discovered were, their being devilub, fearful 
and abominable cursers ; takers away of their neighbour's profits ; charmers and 
healers of some, and casters of sickness upon others ; and who led damnable and 
abominable lives, contrary to God's commandments. As long as the islands were 
subjected to the Pope, in matters of fisith, crosses, and benedictions, and amulets and 
prayers and pilgrimages were sufficient to prevent or to cure all the eflfects of the black 
arts. And even after the Reformation had been introduced, it was found no easy 
matter to shake the general belief in the efficacy of many of the Popish ceremonies ; 
and, hence, many were ready to supply the place of the Catholic priests, .to pretend 
to cure diseases,— to '* tell away pains,**— to counteract the ef&xts of an evil eye or 
an evil tongue,— and to promise all manner of success in worldly affiurt. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE COUNTY OF SHETLAND. • 



Thb Shetland Islands are 90 in number, and extend from 
north to south 70 miles, and from east to west 54 miles. Of 
these, 25 are inhabited, the rest are occupied in pasture, some of 
them being only islets or holms a few square yards in extent. 
Mainland is the largest, about 55 miles long and 25 broad ; 
on its eastern side, lies Lerwick, a town containing 3000 in- 
habitants, and the only one in the country. Sumburgh Head, 
rendered classical by Sir Walter Scott's " Pirate," is the ex- 
treme south point of Shetland, and lies in latitude 59' 5V north, 
and 1' 16" west from Greenwich. 

The general appearance of the coast is precipitous and pictures- 
que, constantly diversified by bold promontories, deep bays, and 
small creeks, and the rocks are broken into the most rugged and 
fantastic forms by the action of the weather and the surge. The 
scenery is remarkably varied, chiefly in consequence of the different 
species of mountain rock of which the islands are composed, want- 
ing, however, in one element of sublimity, great altitude, for al- 
though hilly, the country cannot be termed mountainous. Roo* 
ness hill is the highest land, 1476 feet in height. Of the mural- 
precipices the highest is that of Foola, 1200 feet above the sea 
level. In general, they are under 500 feet. The predominating 
feature of the interior is undulating, bleak, moorland. Many of 
the vales and much of the land skirting the bays, have rather a 
fertile and romantic appearance, but the absence of wood, and the 
paucity of sunshine, are deficiencies which enthusiastic tourists will 
deprecate. 

Climate^ ^c — The climate is moist and variable, rarely present- 
ing great extremes of temperature, and is, on the whole, mild, and 
to natives salubrious. The predominant winds are south-west, from 
which quarter commonly those heavy gales arise, that are in autumn 

* Drawn up by Laurence Edmondston, Esq. M. D. 
SHETLAND. K 



\46 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

80 ruinous in certain seasons to the crops. North-east winds are 
next in frequency, and they occur especially in spring. The sea- 
sons run very much in cycles : eight or ten may in succession be 
warm, steady, and favourable, while three or four, as has been 
seen lately, are cold and stormy. An accurate meteorological 
journal in my possession, kept during the years 1750-51-52, 
and 53, by the late Mr Archibald, minister of Unst, shows 
that the weather then was of the same character that it is now. 
The aurora-borealis is common, but seldom more brilliant than 
in more southern regions, and is, for the most part, the pre- 
cursor or concomitant of south winds. The hissing or rustling 
sound, said to accompany this meteor, is here generally believed 
to exist Thunder and lightning are unfrequent, and are usually 
followed by more unfavourable weather. Although in this country 
much depends on foreseeing atmospherir.al changes, compara- 
tively little attention is paid to prognostics, and the judgment 
of very few of the fishermen is to be relied on ; the indivi- 
duals that seem to have the greatest facility at guessing are the 
fish-curers. The arch of the sky is generally low and hazy. When 
high, and the clouds form cumuli, west and south winds are, as 
I have observed, present, or near at hand. When low and strati- 
fied, east especially, and north. 

Whilst the climate is unsettled and sometimes stormy* the coast 
affords a continued succession of noble harbours, where, by the aid 
of the excellent Admiralty Chart lately published, the mariner may 
find a secure asylum. A lighthouse has been erected on the 
southern extremity of the country; but two or three additional 
ones are desirable. Wrecks are now comparatively rare. When 
they occur, the propensity to plunder, common to the inhabitants of 
most maritime districts, is apt to show itself. It is almost hope- 
less to convince rude minds, that what is at the mercy of the ocean 
Is to be held sacred as private property ; and the very inadequate 
recompense, which, in too many instances, has been allowed for ex- 
treme toil and danger in saving valuable property, strengthens the 
practice of endeavouring to remunerate themselves. In the case of 
no owner being found, it would seem to be equitable, as consistent to 
ancient usage, and it would discourage falsehood and speculation, 
were the Crown, after the custom's duties had been paid, to waive the 
claim to its share in favour of the salvers ; a reference to the records 
of the Exchequer would show how trifling would be the sacrifice. 
Under the existing state of things, every bit of drift-timber that 
can be discovered is taken possession of by officials, and the fisher- 



COUNTY OP SHETLAND. H? 

iben are often placed in the alternative of either abstaining from 
salving or of embezzling it. 

Diseases. — The most common diseases are catarrh, rheumatism, 
and dyspepsia. Continued fever also frequently occurs ; but acute 
inflammations and cutaneous diseases are not so common as they 
were formerly, perhaps owing to u considerable change in the diet of 
the people. Fewer individuals die in infancy than in most other 
countries, possibly from the general prevalence of crusta laciea^ 
which evidently acts as a natural and beneficial counter-irritant 
against visceral congestion, but which, when injudiciously interfer* 
ed with by repellants, often produces fatal internal disease. In-> 
stances of great longevity are rare. The women usually live to a 
greater age, and preserve their faculties better, than the men, it 
may be from having been less exposed to excessive and desultory 
labour. It is remarkable that no authentic instance of Asiatic cho- 
lera has occurred. A rigorous quarantine was maintained dur* 
ing the prevalence of the pestilence in Scotland ; but whether this 
measure contributed to save the islands from its visitation, is a 
question that resolves itself into the more genenil one of the con- 
tagious nature of the disease, — a point on which able medical au** 
thorities are at issue. 

Geology. — The rocks are mostly all of what has been called 
the primitive formation. — Granite, gneiss, mica-slate, clay-slate^ 
limestone, serpentine, and diallage rock ; and towards the south 
end of the country, secondary sandstone, &c« Serpentine forms 
considerable hills in Unst, the most northerly island of the clus- 
ter, and in Fetlar adjacent to it ; and in this rock are found imbed- 
ded masses and veins of chrome ore, some thousand tons of which 
have been quarried and sold. The first quarry of this valuable 
mineral was found by Mr Edmondston of Buness, on his private 
property, and he introduced it to the British market. It is ex- 
ported in its crude state, or partially pulverized and levigated. 
It is used as a pigment, dye, and alloy, and might perhaps be use- 
ful as a medicine. Limestone is found in difierent situations, and 
burnt in rude kilns with peat fuel ; it is chiefly used as mortar, lit- 
tie being employed in agriculture, though its general iutroductiou 
would be an important economical improvement. When applied* 
in the state of carbonate, it will act on certain conditions of soil) 
often to be met with here, more beneficially than when it is caus- 
tic, not only by neutralizing acids, but by supplying carbon. Sand- 
stone-slate abounds, and is extensively in demand for roofing; it is 



148 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

heavy, but od the whole answers well. No coal has ever been met 
withy nor is it likely, from the geology of the islands, that it will be 
found ; but the great abundance and excellence of peat renders 
this deficiency the less to be regretted. In the progress of me* 
chanical and chemical improvements, we hope to see peat made 
available for most of the purposes to which coal is applied, and it 
has these additional advantages, that it is on the sur&ce, and re- 
productive.* The moors that produce it, are, however, very much 
neglected, to the injury of the present stock of fuel, and the pre- 
vention of future accumulation. 

Zoology. — In zoology, there is nothing very remarkable. Of the 
wild quadrupeds, the great and small seal, otter, weasel, rabbit, 
common and great Norway rat, house and field mice, exhaust the 
list. Difierent species of whales are occasionally seen. They are 
such as occur on the Scottish coast, but are not numerous, with 
the exception of the ka!an whale {Delphinus melas)^ hundreds of 
which are by boats annually driven on shore. They are to 
be seen in flocks of thousands every summer ; and if a little 
more attention were directed to their history and modes of 
capture, which itjmight be easy to point out, they might furnish 
a valuable annual addition to the regular marine resources of 
the country, instead of being a merely casual one. The flesh 
is as nutritious and wholesome as beef, and very similar to it 
in flavour. The oil (of which each animal, on an average, 
yields about a barrel) is excellent The skin can be made into 
good leather. The ofials are powerful manure ; and the expense 
and risk of hunting them are trifling. Formerly, they were used as 
food here, as they still are by our worthy, intelligent, and substan- 
tial neighbours of Faroe, from which country Shetland might 
receive many useful lessons. The flesh of a congenerous animal is re- 
gularly sold and prized in the markets of the Bermudas, and that of 
the porpoise (a miniature whale) was a favourite dish in English 
palaces in the fifteenth century; but modern fastidiousness has, 
it seems, found something revolting in eating whale's flesh, so that 
in seasons of scarcity, sea weed is resorted to, while it is allowed 
to rot on the beach. In the case of any of these ka'an whales 

• The first sketch of the Geology of the Shetland Islands was that publislicd by 
Professor Jameson in his Mineralogy of the Scottish Isles: his distin;;fuished pupil, 
Dr Hibbert, many years afterwards, gare a more ample di>scriptioT), also from actual 
observation, of the numerous striking and interesting relations of this remote portion 
of the Hriii^h empire, in his Mineralogy of the Shetland Isles. 



COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 149 

being stranded and killed, the landlords on whose property they 
were driven, and the Crown or its donatory, exacted and received 
shares. To this claim the latter had apparently no right, ex- 
cept what might have been derived from ancient usages under the 
Norwegian rule, and if this were a valid authority in the whale 
question, it would be so in many others, iind confer privileges on 
the Shetlands, of which Scottish law is unconscious. The land* 
lords, on the other hand, have an obvious right to a share, both 
in equity and usage, just as a proprietor on the Scottish coast 
may demand a high rent for a barren rock, which happens to be fa- 
vourably situated as a site for a lighthouse, or a station for a fishery. 

Almost all the British sea-birds are to be met with in Shetland 
at one season or another ; but I am not aware that any are pecu- 
liar to it. They are, id some localities, very numerous, and are 
eagerly sought after by the natives, who are among the most dex- 
terous and intrepid fowlers anywhere to be found. These climbers 
seldom act in concert with each other, as is done in St Kilda, 
Faroe, and many other places, but fearlessly and singly scramble 
amongst precipices where a finger or a toe can hardly find a hold. 
This practice should be here sternly discouraged. The benefit 
from it is trifling. It leads to idle and irregular habits, and is of- 
ten fatal to life. The destruction, too, of these lovely tenants 
of the precipices, robs the wild grandeur of the scene of one of 
its most interesting attractions. In defending their nests from 
rapacious birds, they become also the protectors of the flocks that 
pasture in their vicinity ; and it is singular that proprietors are 
not more alive to the utility of their preservation. The land-birds 
are comparatively few in number and species, principally from 
the absence of woodlands. No attraction for sportsmen, in the 
shape of grouse or partridge, is to be met with on our damp and 
lonely moors. 

Most of the fishes found on the British coasts are to be met 
with here. Those in the small lakes and rivulets are the eel, 
common trout, and sea-trout. I doubt if it can be aflSrmed 
that salmon have been caught in Shetland ; but when eminent 
and experienced icththyologists find it to be a matter of such 
difficulty to furnish an accurate specific distinction for this fish, 
it would be presumptuous to assert that it does not occur 
here. The rivulets are short and shallow, and almost all of them 
tinctured deeply with moss. These circumstances may be the 



150 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 



cause that salmon are at least rare, or of diminished size and modified 
appearance. Shell-fish are abundant Oysters of good size and 
flavour occur in many situations. The limpet is universally used 
as bait for the young coal-fish. The kuUyack (Mactra sclida) is 
frequent, burrowing in muddy beaches^ sheltered from the sur^ 
and is in season early in spring. Eaten raw it resembles the oys* 
ter in taste, and by many is thought to be more delicate and di* 
gestible. In the department of marine Invertebrata, an inviting 
field awaits the culture of the naturalist. 

Botany. — Only two plants, not hitherto observed in Scotland, 
have been found in Shetland, — the Pimm maritimum and an are- 
nariOf believed to be the Norvepica. Both occurjn the island of 
Unstonly, and were discovered in 1887 by a young and promising 
native botanist He has since surveyed botanically the most of the 
islands, and the following is his list of phsenogamous plants found 
in them, which is interesting, as being, I believe, the first attempi 
at a regular Shetland flora. 

Catalogue of the Phaenogamous plants and ferns observed in 
the Shetland Islands, by Mr Thomas Edmondston, Junior. 



Mo^lANORIA. MONOOTKIA. 

Hippuris Tulgaria 
Salicornia herbacea 

DiGTNLA. 

Callitrichc aquatica 

DlAMDKIA. MoNOGTMIA^ 

Veronica officinalis 

beccabunga 

anagallis 

montana 
PinguicuTa Tulgaria 

DiOTNIA. 

Anthoxanthum odoratum 

Trianoria. Monootnia. 
Iris pseudaconis 
Schoenus nigricans 

albus 
Scirpus lacustris 
caespitofus 
palustris 
P^riopliorum vagiiiatum 

polystachion 
Nardus stricta 

DVGINIA. 

Alnpccurus geniculatus 

})ratensi8 
I'balatis arundinacea 



Phleum pratense 
. AgrostB alba 

Tulgaris 
Aira fiexuosa 
coespitosa 
precox 
Holcus lanatus 
Mdica cfcnilca 
Poa trivial is 
pratensis 
annua 
fluitans 
Briza media 
Dactylus glomerata 
Cynosurus cristatus 
Festuca ovina 
clatior 
duriuscula 
Bromus mollis 

arvensis 
A vena fatua 
Arundo phragraitcs 

arenaria 
Lolium perenne 
Tri:icura repens 



Tetrandria. 
Scabiosa succisa 
Asperula odorata 
Galium boreale â–  
saxatile 
â–¼crum 



Monootnia. 



COVNTV OF SHETLAND. 



151 



Galium palustre 
Plantago major 

maritima 

media 

lanceolate 

coroDopus 
Alchemilla anrensis 
alpina 

TCTRANDRIA. TcTRAOTMIA. 

Poumogeton natens 

heterophyllum 
laoceoiatum 

Sagina procumbens 

PSNTAMORZA. MONOOTNIA. 

Myosotis anrensis 

Cflrapitosus 
Pulmonaria maritima 
Lycopsis arvensis 
Primula vulgaris 
Anagallis tenella 
Menyantbes trifoliate 
Azalea procumbens 
Jasione montena 
Viola canina 
tricolor 
Lonicera peryclimenum 
Hedera helix 

DlGTVIA. 

Gentiana campestris 

amarella 
Daucus carote 
Chsrophyllum sylvestre 
Angelica sylvatica 
Ligusticum Scoticum 
Carum carui 
Hydrocotyle vulgaris 
Heradeum spbondylium 

TSTRAOYNZA. 

Parnassia palustris 

PSMTAOTNZA. 

Statice armeria 

limonium 
Linum catbarticum 

HSXAOYNIA. 

Drosera rotundifolia 
longifolia 

HSXANDRIA. MoMOOTirXA. 

Scilla verna 

nutens 
Narthecium oosifragum 
J uncus effusus 

bifidus 

squarrosus 

uuginocus 



Juncus triglumis 
campestris 
sylvaticus 

HXXANDRIA. TrIOTNIA. 

Rumex crispus 

acetosa 

acetosella 
Triglocbin palustre 

Hsftandrza. Monootnia. 
Trientalis Europca 

OCTANDRIA. MOMOGTMZA. 

Epilobium palustre 

angustifblium 
raontenum 
Vaccinium rayrtillus 
Call una Vulgaris 
Erica tetralix 
cinerea 

Trxotvia, 
Polygonum amphibium 
persicbria 
bistorte 
aviculare 

DXCANORIA. MOVOOTMIA. 

Arbutus uva>ttrsi 
alpina 

DiGTKZA. 

Saxifraga oppositifolia 

TaiGYNIA. 

Silene maritima 
acaulis 
inflata 
Alsine media 
Arenaria peploides 
marina 

Norvegica(Hook.) Nov. sp. 
Cherleriatedoides 

PSWTAOTKIA. 

Sedum telephium 

; album 
Affottemma gitbago 
Ly«hnis dioica 

flos-cuculi 
Ccrastium vulgatum 

viscosum 

latifolium 

tetrandrum 
Spergula arvensis 

ICOSANDRIA. PsiTTAaTKIA. 

Crataegus Oxyacantha 
Sorbus aucuparia 
Spira» ulmaria 



162 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 



ICOSAVDRIA. POLTOYMLA. 

Rosa tomentosa 
Rubos saiatiliB 
Potentilla ansciina 
Tormentilla officinalis 
Comanim palustre 



F0LYAM2>HIA« 

Fapaver rbaeas 
dubium 



MOVOOTKXA. 



PoLTflVIA. 

Thalietnim alpinum 
Raounculus acris 

flammuU 

rq>ena 

ficaria 
Caltha palustria 

Dtdtkamia. GrMKOsriauiA. 
Lamium purpureum 

intermedium 
Galeopais tetrahit 
Stacbys palustris 
ambigua 
Tbymus serpyllum 
Prunella vulgaris 

AifoiosraaMiA. 
Euphrasia officinalis 
Pedicularis palustris 
sylvatica 

TiraADTVAMIA. SiLICULOSA. 

Draba incana 
Tblaspi bursa-pastoris 
Cochlearia officinalis 
Bunias cakile 

SlUQUOSA. 

Cardamine pratensis 

petrsa 
Sinapis arvensis 
Rihapbanus raphanistnm 

M0NADEX.FUIA. DXCAXDRIA* 

Geranium molle 
pbsnim 

DiADSLPHXA. HsXANDRtA. 

Fumaria panriflora 

OCTAXDRIA. 

. Polygala vulgaris 

DSCAMDRIA. 

Ulex Europsus 
Anthyllus vulneraria 
Pisum maritimum 
Lathyrus pratensis 
Vicia cracca 



Trifolium rcpens 

pratense 
Lotus comiculatus 

POLYADKLPBIA. PoLYANBRlA. 

Hjrpericum pulchrum 
perforatum 
elodes 

Sykgsnxsla. jEquaus. 
Sonchus anrcnsis 

oleraceus 
Leontodon taraxacum 
autumnale 
Hicracium sylvaticum 
Arctium lappa 
Cnicus lanoeolatus 

arvensis 
Onopordum acanthium 

SuFsanuA. 
Tanacetum vulgare 
Artemisia vulgaris 
Gnaphalium aureum 
Tussilago fiirfara 

petasites 
Senecio vulgaiis 
jacobaa 
Solidago Virgaurea 
Bellis perennis 
Chrysanthemum leocanthemum 

inodonim 
Anthemis cotula 
Achillea millefolium 
ptarmica 

FaVSTRAKXA. 

Centaurea cyanus 



MONANDRIA. 



Gtkandria. 
Orchis mascula 
latifolia 
Satyrium viride 



MoNOffCIA. MOKANDRIA. 

Euphorbia helioscopia 

Trxandria.' 
Sparganium natans 
simplex 
ramosum 
Carex dioica 
ovalis 
arenaria 
rccurva 
binorvis 
ampullacea 

TcTRANnRIA« 

Littorella lacustris 
Urtica dioica 



COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 



153 



Myriopbyllum spicatum 
Betula alba 

DiOKCIA. DiANDRlA. 
Salii fuBca 
aurita 


Aspidium iilix mas 

filix fcemina 

Scolopendrium vulgare 

Osmunda regalis 
lunar ia 

Ophioglossum vulgatum 


aquatica 
herbacea 

Triandria. 
Empetrum nigrum 


Lycopodiacea. 
Lycopodium selago 

selaginoides 
clavatum 


OCTANDRIA. 

llbodiola rosea 

MOWADELPBIA* 

Juniperus communis 


Rquisetacea 
Equisetum arvense 
hyemale 
palustre 
sylvaticum 


POLTOAHIA. MOMOXCIA. 

Atriplex patula 
laciniata 


Extinct. 
Corylus avellana 
Finns— .(picea?) 



CRYPTOOAMIA. FtLlCES. 

Polypodium vulgare 

No indigenous trees are to be seen, if we except a few dwarf bushes 
of birch, willow, and mountain-ash. In one or two gardens, syca« 
mores and other trees, planted probably a hundred years ago, have 
attained the height of 40 or 50 feet, — the girth, within three feet 
of the ground, being above six feet. That trees have formerly 
grown in abundance in Shetland can hardly, I think, be doubted, 
from the absence of any appreciable peculiarity in climate or soil 
fatal to their growth, and from the general diffusion of their re- 
mains in the peat moors. Some of those peat trees were of no 
inconsiderable dimensions ; but, for the most part, they are of 
small size. From this, however, it cannot be fairly inferred that, * 
generally, the native trees were diminutive. Timber must always 
have been valuable in this country, and the inhabitants would na- 
turally consume all that was of any respectable size^— especially as 
no spot of ground is six miles from the sea in every direction, and 
therefore the woods would be easily accessible. But it is the opi- 
nion of some, that trees in size and quantity cannot now be reared 
in Shetland. The experiment, however, has never been fairly 
made. Let an intelligent and experienced forester, residing long 
enough in these islands to modify his experience to suit their cli- 
mate, superintend for a sufficiently long period, and on a scale of 
adequate magnitude, the culture of various kinds of hardy trees, 
and then, and not before, can the capabilities of Shetland, with 
regard to arboriculture, be ascertained. It is to be hoped that 
some spirited and far-sighted proprietor will ere long put the mat- 



154 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

ter to the proof. On a question such as this, d priori opinions, 
thrown out at a venture, are entirely to be disregarded. It is a 
curious fact, for which there is high botanical authority, that cones 
of the silver fir f Abies piceaj have been found in some moors in 
Orkney. This tree is not indigenous to Scotland, but is common 
in Norway. It may, however, have been planted or its cones sown 
by some of the energetic and sagacious Norwegian Yark, who so long 
ruled the Orkney and Shetland Islands, and who were as remarkable 
for their attention to husbandry and fishing as to politics and war. 

Antiquities. — These consist of Pictish burghs (so called) and 
standing-stones. The former seem to have been fortified posts erect- 
ed by the Norse or Saxon rovers, — and the most perfect example of 
this structure anywhere in existence, is in the small island of Moossa, 
a few miles south of Lerwick. The remains of these burghs are 
very numerous throughout Shetland. The standing-stones are 
from twelve to twenty feet high, somewhat conical, and sunk a few 
feet in the ground. They were probably erected in commemora- 
tion of celebrated warriors, as were the ** Bautasteine'* of the 
Northmen. On some of these ston^ old people state that they 
have observed indistinct and strange-looking inscriptions, probably 
Runic; but these are no longer visible, nor do I know of any 
Runic remains in the islands. If the fashion of erecting 
monuments in honour of modern heroes shall penetrate to 
Shetland, this simple kind of pillar may be revived, as at once 
appropriate to the scenery, — economical and enduring. No traces 
of ancient domestic architecture occur ; perhaps the habitations 
were mostly of wood. Rude concentric circles, formed of turf 
and stone, are in some situations still to be seen ; the circles, 
three in number, are near each other; the diameter of the outer- 
most 30 feet These were, most probably, situations where legal 
justice was administered, sub plena Jove^ as was for centuries the fa- 
shion of the Norwegians. Tumuli are rather numerous ; but no- 
thing novel that I am aware of has been found in any that have 
been opened. No rocking-stones are to be met with. 

The ancient language was a dialect of the Norse, being similar 
to what is now spoken in the Faroe Islands ; but, for more than a 
century, it has been disused, and is now quite forgotten. From this 
latter cause, and from the destruction of every ancient record and 
document that the Earls Stewart and their Scottish retainers 
could collect, any old ballads or histories which Shetland might 
have possessed, have been lost Thai such did exist can hardly 



COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 1 65 

be questioned ; for the geographical position, and many excellent 
harbours of this country, rendered it a favourite resort of the he« 
roic sea-kings; and there are yet extant in Faroe many sagas 
and poems (in some of which Shetland is mentioned). Those 
two groups of islands were for a long period united under one go« 
vernment and bishoprick ; but Faroe was fortunately not scourged, 
as was Shetland, by royal favourites and greedy adventurers, tak- 
ing advantage of the unsuspecting and defenceless Udallers, un- 
protected as they were by the Government of Scotland, to which 
they had been conditionally consigned, and ignorant of its language 
and its laws.* 

Population, — The population, under the Norwegian rule, may 
fairly be supposed to have fully equalled, in amount, what it now is. 
There exists, indeed, no documentary proof of this; butit is a reason- 
able inference, from what we know of the contemporary state of Nor- 
way and its other dependencies, all under the same government and 
state of society, and inhabited by the same race of people. This argu- 
ment, which I have elsewhere put forth, might be amply illustrated, 
did our limits permit A considerable population may also be 
inferred from the warlike achievements and great political influ- 
ence of the Earls of Orkney, of which country Shetland formed 
an integral part ; — the conclusion drawn by some of a great popu- 
lation, from the remains of numerous churches, appears to be un- 
tenable, for these churches were small ; and it was the habit (as 
it still is in Norway), for the clergyman to have several places of 
worship in a parish instead of one ; an arrangement apparently 
wisely adapted to the religious instruction of the people, though 
demanding a little more activity on the part of the pastor. 

A few years ago, the population was 31,000. Since then, it 
has been, I think, decreasing ; the seasons, latterly, have been dis- 
astrous ; and many of the young and able-bodied men have left 
the country. In many parishes, the women are in proportion to the 
other sex, as two to one. Under judicious management, however, 
the islands could probably maintain three times the present num- 
ber of inhabitants. 

To no quarter of the kingdom is emigration less applicable ; 
there is ample employment at home for the people, and their ha- 

* It is an interesting circumstance, that, according to ancient Norse authoritj, 
the celebrated Faeroese hero, Sigmund Bresterson, the confidential friend and com- 
panion in arms of the Norwegian CromweU, Hakon Yarl, and of his successful rival. 
King Olaf Tryggneson, first infroduoed Christianity into Shetland and his native 
islands, near the beginning of the eUveDth century. 



156 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

bits do not render them fit subjects for the measure. The most 
of the men that leave Shetland enter the merchant navy, aod few 
eventually are heard of. They make good sailors, and their prac- 
tice at the oar is a^ near to perfection as this elegant exercise can 
approach. 

Ecclesiastical State. — There are twelve parishes in Shetland. 
-The stipends of the clergy absorb about a fifth of the whole rental, 
and several of them are above the minimum of L. 150. Thev 
are all valued at a fixed money rate. The serious consequences of 
this arrangement, were any important changes to take place in the 
value of the precious metals, will be at once perceived. 

Methodists, Seceders, Independents, and Anabaptists, are to be 
found, but no Catholics. 

Poor. — For the support of the poor, each parish is divided into 
certain districts, and a pauper is appointed to each, who resides a 
given number of days in, or receives a certain allowance from, each 
family. Collections at the churches are also regularly made for 
them. In this way their maintenance is lightly felt. Compul- 
sory assessments would, in Shetland, have most pernicious effects. 

The right to a share in Parliamentary representation was first 
granted to Shetland by the Reform Bill. In conjunction with 
Orkney, it now elects a county Member. The number of electors 
is 150. 

Education. — Education is on the same footing as it is in Scot- 
land in general. Parochial schools are established throughout^ 
assisted by those of the General Assembly. There are few in- 
dividuals who cannot read ; and writing and arithmetic are pretty 
generally acquired. 

Character of the People. — The people are not remarkable for 
size or muscular strength, but chiefly for hardihood and endurance 
of fatigue ; of a temperament rather versatile and sanguine than 
phlegmatic and persevering ; more apt for desultory and adven- 
turous, than for regular and continued exertion ; and this in some 
measure arises, doubtless, from the various and somewhat incom- 
patible occupations on land and water, to which they are early 
accustomed ; and from the lottery-like gains of a fisherman's 
occupation. Their manner and address are mild and respect- 
ful ; their enunciation smooth, and the tones somewhat pensive. 
The language is English, with the Norse accent, and many of its 
idioms and words. The old names of places are Scandinavian. 
They are fond of music and dancing, though they exhibit little 



COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 157 

proficiency in these accomplishments. The violin is the only in- 
strument in usO) and the music is Scottish, with a few rude na- 
tive melodies. Music and dancing have been recently much dis- 
couraged, from a most erroneous notion that they lead to vicious 
excesses. The effects of such a check to an enjoyment in itself 
innocent, and to the love of home, fostered by pleasurable asso- 
ciations, can be easily imagined. 

The people are slavishly indulgent, or rather obedient to their 
children ; and this is perhaps one reason why gratitude, filial duty, 
and reverence for old age are not thought to be among their pro- 
minent virtues. Superstitions are prevalent, though they present 
little novel or interesting. Witchcraft, charms, and apparitions, 
are firmly believed in ; but the idea of fairies is becoming obsolete. 

Benefit Societies. — Benefit societies are not well adapted to their 
habits, the advantages to be derived from them appearing too dis- 
tant and contingent. A Fisherman's Fund, for the relief of widows, 
orphans, and infirm individuals, was established in 1810. The ca- 
pital, it is understood, is nearly L. 3000. The members, from 
death and withdrawal, are now so few, and it has become so un- 
popular, that its dissolution would be judicious, with due respect, 
however, to the rights of those having claims on it for relief. This 
measure has been, indeed, loudly demanded by most of the sub- 
scribers for these few years past, when the distribution of the fund 
amongst them would have been so very seasonable ; and it seems 
difficult to conceive upon what principle it can be expediently or 
equitably resisted. 

Temperance Societies. — Temperance societies have been esta- 
blished, but seem supererogatory in a country, on the whole, re- 
markable for sobriety ; their tendency is certainly to produce 
good, mainly by their indirect effect in leading people seriously 
to reflect on the imprudence of indulgence in stimulating beve- 
rages. 

Hospitality is a virtue of which my countrymen may be proud 
of the reputation. Long may they cherish the sentiment, as just 
as it is noble, that the visited is more honoured than the visitor. 
In the majority of cases, the favour lies most truly not on the 
side of the guest, but on that of the host ; and in a country where 
inns can hardly be said to exist, kindness to strangers becomes a 
sacred duty, which no temporary inconvenience can cancel. 

Cottars, — There are few British cottars who have at their com- 
mand, in ordinary seasons, and with common industry, a greater varies 



158 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON .THE 

ty of food. Fish, flesh, fowl, milk, vegetables they have within their 
reach ; but if they are not perseveringly industrious to gain, they 
are as little frugal to keep ; and hence the extremes of plenty and 
want too frequently touch each other. The common position of a 
Shetland tenant may be stated thus : He pays L.5 or L.6 annually 
to his landlord. For this he has a cottage, in the construction of 
which there is room for improvement; a cow-house, corn and cab* 
bage yards; 10 or 12 acres of good ground, partly arable, and 
partly grass and meadow ; the right to cut as much peat for fuel, 
and turf for compost, &c. on the common as he can consume ; and 
pasture as many animals as he pleases oli it. Such a farm may 
produce twenty bolls of bear and oatmeal, and five tons of potatoes ; 
graze, in summer, three to six milk cows, and fodder, in winter, 
from seven to ten cattle of all ages. He may have as much poul- 
try, and as many geese and pigs, as he can manage ; the sea is 
always nearto supply him with fish for food, and sea- weed for manure; 
the produce of his summer fishing is generally sufficient to pay 
his rent The wages of day labour are high, when its effici- 
ency and a comparison with the circumstances of other countries 
are considered, and an active and faithful workman always has 
employment. How happens it, then, that he has frequently 
been brought to the verge of famine, of late years especially ? 
Partly from bad seasons ; partly because his desultory habits 
indispose him to regular and vigorous exertion on his farm ; 
partly because much of his industry is injudiciously applied ; 
and partly because a taste for luxuries, to which his means 
are not competent, is indulged. An example of this last point 
may be found in the fact, that about 40,000 lbs. of tea are con- 
sumed annually, the value of which would, perhaps, exceed the 
whole gross rental of the islands. He is too much habituated to 
imagine, that six months labour in the year should keep him com- 
paratively idle for the remaining six ; and, in the direction of his 
agricultural industry, he has gradually fallen into the practice of 
trusting to potatoes instead of corn, for his chief food, without pro- 
viding an extra supply of manure to keep the land in heart; this 
leads to the relinquishment of the culture of bear, which ripens 
sooner than oats, — is more productive, and less exposed to da- 
mage from the autumnal gales ; the land being impoverished yields 
little fodder and grass; his cattle are reduced in number and 
plight ; he and his family are imperfectly nourished for energetic 
exertion ; and a failure of the potato crop, which, in so variable a 

4 



COUNTY OP SHETLA>ID; 159 

climate, must necessarily often occur, at once brings him to indi- 
gence. If he could be induced to provide three times the quan- 
tity of manure which he usually does, and which, in most cases, he 
could do with perfect ease, this alone would make him compa- 
ratively independent. His farm is usually taken for three or five 
years, occasionally by the year; but it is a point of honour and habit 
with most landlords, (which public opinion properly and vigilantly 
protects), not to raise his rent or disturb him in his possession, un- 
less for obvious crime or wilful insolvency ; and many examples 
exist, of the same family remaining for several generations on the 
same farm. He has thus almost all the benefit of a lease, while he 
himself is perfectly free to remove at short intervals; and this free* 
dom is a real one, from the number of ^* ley" farms and landlords 
in competition ; so that, while he obeys the laws, and retains his 
solvency, no subject of Great Britain can enjoy more unrestrained 
liberty. 

His attachment to country is not very strong, an effect which 
may, in some measure, arise from the love of a wandering life, in- 
duced by sailor habits, and which so many of the young men im- 
bibe, by going annually in the whalers to Greenland. This prac- 
tice has always been reprobated by the more sagacious proprietors 
and most justly. It is contaminating to the morals of the unsophis- 
ticated youth; it dissatisfies them with the regular and simple modes 
of living in their native country; it employs the period of life, when 
they should be acquiring the habits and knowledge of fishermen 
and farmers, in making them only half-sailors, and accustoms them 
to expenses which their ordinary industry at home cannot support; 
yet the attempts at salutary restraint here have been stigmatized 
as arbitrary oppression. This is only one instance, however, amongst 
many, in which Shetland proprietors have been cruelly traduced 
as the tyrants of their tenants, unable to appreciate either their 
rights or their capabilities, or the interests and duties of their 
own position. It was formerly a common practice, which is 
still followed in some -districts, for the tenant to give his land- 
lord a few days* work every year ; this was mutually beneficial, 
and in a country where regular daily labourers, as a class, are 
hardly to be found, was necessary. These days' work eventually 
formed part of the rent, and thus in reality were hired labour. Yet 
this, too, has been often railed against as unjust exaction, as if a 
Shetland cottar were above the sphere of day labour, or as if he 
might practise it for the benefit of any one except his landlord. 



160 GENERAL OfiSERVATIONS ON THE 

The injurious consequences of indulging in such crude decla- 
mation, however well meant it may in some instances have been, 
were severely felt, in destroying confidence between tenant 
and master, and rendering the former discontented with his lot ; 
and this naturally conducts to a few remarks on the leading causes 
of the destitution of the last four years, which has claimed and 
received so much relief from a benevolent British community. 
The. more immediate cause, certainly, was a failure of the crops 
and fishing, — the more remote, but not less general or efficient, I 
should suggest, was a departure from the ancient relation between 
landlord and tenant. A Shetland proprietor holds his lands, it is 
true, by the same tenure as a Scottish ; but to insure fair and ade- 
quate returns he must, in most cases, view himself rather as a pro- 
prietor in a new colony (with which, in many points, Shetland is 
assimilated), or, if I may so speak, as the conductor of a compli- 
cated manufactory, than simply as a landholder having little other 
business to transact, besides merely granting leases and receiving 
rents; he must vigilantly excite and direct the energies of his tenants, 
— assist them with capital and counsel, — receive, and provide a mar- 
ket for the various produce of their industry,— ^keep a store con- 
taining every necessary article they may require, and carefully at- 
tend to the many subordinate arrangements of order and discipline 
which the peculiarity of their position and co-operative industry may 
demand. He must be at once landlord, merchant, farmer, fish -curer, 
and the banker also of his tenants ; or, if he is not himself able to 
undertake all this, he places his lands under the direction of some 
intelligent and responsible person as tacksman, who, under certain 
restrictions, manages the property as the owner would do. In 
either way, a close and kindly connexion between tenant and mas- 
ter subsisted, — the one had all his necessary and reasonable wants 
provided for, and the other had security for his rents, and each had 
a near interest in the other's welfare. It was the practice, in 
working this system, for the tenant to pay a low rent for his farm, 
and in return to receive a low price for certain parts of his produce, 
especially fish, and this mode of low reciprocal valuation was ob- 
viously more for the benefit of the tenant than the proprietor. 
Under this system the people prospered and were contented, 
and it afforded them facility for gradual and solid improvement ; 
but individuals, who either could not or would not see the wisdom 
of this arrangement, in a certain state of society, — entertaining 
theoretical views of political economy, suited only to great capital 



COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 161 

and high commercial civilization, — were unceasing in their de- 
nunciations against the landlords, as injuriously compelling their 
tenants to deliver to them their produce at a less price than they 
could obtain in the market, while the countervailing fact was over- 
looked, of the proportionally low rent paid for the land. This ad 
capiandum argument was but too successful ; the tenants became 
dissatisfied ; many of them dishonestly eluded the compact by clan- 
destine disposal of much of their produce to others than their 
masters, while these were paid with low rents, — and at length they 
demanded to be at liberty to give their labour to the highest bid- 
der, and pay a higher mon^y rent to their landlord as a receipt in 
full of all his annual claims on them. Several of the lairds, se- 
duced by the specious but spurious simplicity of this free-trade view, 
annoyed by incessant and unjust charges of ignorance and oppres- 
sion, or willing to be relieved from irksome details, consented, and 
the rest were soon compelled to follow, or have their lands un- 
tenanted. For a few years, all went on pretty smoothly ; but the 
tenants had now fallen into the hands of a set of small shopkeepers, 
whose interest was not to secure their rents, or have regard to the per- 
manent prosperity of the tenant, but to exhaust his means in shop 
advances ; a result for which the system, rather than they, was to 
blame. Thus the tenants fell into habits of profusion and heavy 
arrears, and bad seasons supervening, the hollowness of the 
scheme at once became manifest. The shopkeepers (many of 
whom were also ruined) could not furnish supplies, because the 
tenants' substance and credit were exhausted ; and the landlords, 
in want of their rents, were little able to relieve them. Some of 
them did, however, interpose nobly ; and, but for their instrumen- 
tality, the tenants must in many instances have starved. The eyes 
of most people are now opened to the necessity of resuming the 
principle of the old system, which, in some instances, has been 
done, and already the a^ect of things is improving. One main 
point of this system, as I have already stated, is, that the greater 
part of the produce of the tenants' industry shall pass under the 
control of the proprietor, chiefly as a rent security ; and to make 
this have the appearance as well as the reality of mutual justice, 
the highest market price is allowed for it, while a fair money rent 
is paid for the lands. Under this mode of management of their 
property, much detail and active supervision are imposed on the 
landlords ; but there appears to be no alternative of extensive ap- 
plication except that of Uirowing their lands into pasture, and eject- 

SHETLANO. V 



im GBNBEAL OBSERVATCONS ON THE 

\ng the population from their natire country ; aud while it may be 
a questioa with mauy, whose opinions are entitled to respect, whe- 
ther this would he the more profitable plan, it ought only to be 
had recourse to as a last resource, so long as equity and good feel- 
ing are valued as paramount to iron-handed legal right. The 
proprietors hafe never been absentees; and if the nature of their 
possessions be such as to demand on their part industrious and de- 
tailed superintendence, they may console themselves with the re- 
flection, that in few parts of the kingdom is there a better field 
than in this, for substantial improvement and active benevolence^ 
or where the lords of the soil have more ample power for the 
good of the tenants entrusted by Providence to their care. 

Agriculture. — The natural soil of Shetland may generally be 
termed mossy, with those exceptions which the nature and outline 
of the subjacent rock, and the conditions of exposure produce. 
Much alluvial soil exists along the shores of the bays, and among 
the numerous small vales, and a considerable quantity of good land 
has been 'made by long culture. The mode of farming which has 
been from time immemorial in use, was probably introduced by 
the Norwegian colonists, and is not ill adapted to the circum- 
stances of the country, however much at first sight it may appear 
to be at variance with the theoretical principles of refined hus- 
bandry. The spade, of a light and peculiar construction, is the 
common instrument for turning over the soil, and it is surprising 
to observe the rapidity and efficiency with which it parfbmia its 
work. Many individuals employ the common Scotch plough, to 
which the ground in general is well suited, and were the farms 
larger, or co-operation among the occupiers more attended to, 
its employment might with great advantage be universal Some 
new land is annually broken up for cultivation ; but an ignorance 
of sound agricultural principles is here too often apparent, and 
leads to disappointment and loss. 

Carts are little used, — the absence of regular roads, the facility 
of water carriage, and the inconsiderable quantity of produce re- 
quiring transport, render their want the less felt Ponies with 
pack saddles are the chief substitute. 

The subject of road-making has deservedly attracted attention. 
In a country so indented by the sea, the employment of small 
steam-boats, using peats for fuel, might, for some time to come, 
be suggested as a substitute. 

The manures are, farm-yard dung, sea-weed, peat ashes. 



COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 163 

and mould, generally mixed together. The labouring season be- 
gins in March, and terminates in May. The staple objects of cul- 
tivation are bristle-pointed oats, {Jvena strigosa^) perhaps one of 
the most valuable of all the varieties of dark oats ; bear, {Hot'- 
deum vulgare^) and potatoes. The common close cabbage has 
been long cultivated. The seed is sown in the end of June, in 
small circular inclosures, of about five yards in diameter, in poor 
ground, and manured with peat ashes alone, for the double pur- 
pose of preventing weeds, and premature luxuriant growth, and 
the plants are set out in rich soil, the succeeding spring. More 
recently, field turnips, on a small scale, have become general, and 
their culture ought, by all means, to be encouraged and extended. 
The soil and climate are very favourable for them. No instance of the 
fly, that I am aware of, has occurred ; and the only enemy to be 
dreaded is the mountain linnet, {FrtngiHaJiavirostris,) which is 
indeed a formidable one, and is very numerous in Shetland. 
These birds crop the cotyledonous leaves as they first appear 
above ground, with the seeds on the top, by which, perhaps, 
they are first attracted, and in doing this the young plants are torn 
up. I have often shot them in the very act of depredation, and 
have counted from 40 to 100 embryo turnips in the crop of 
one. The remedy is diligent watching for two or three days, 
after the first appearance of the plant. This bird is rare in the 
Scottish lowlands ; but congenerous species may have there done 
equal damage to the turnip crops, and the fact have been over- 
looked. The culture of potatoes is well understood, and is increas- 
ing, but yet little more manure is collected, and thus the old ara- 
ble ground is deteriorated, and the corn crop lessened. This is 
an abuse which proprietors would do well immediately to check, 
for it clearly proceeds from ignorance and indolence, and will have 
extensively injurious effects. A better rotation, or larger stock of 
manure, should in this case be compulsory on the tenant The 
disease of curl in potatoes may be said to be unknown. The ha- 
bit is, not to remove the tubers from the ground, until quite ripe, 
indicated by the total decay of the leaves and stem. Inattention 
to this, and planting in too strongly manured ground, I have long 
suspected to be the main cause of the failure of potato crops. 

The hay is chiefly the produce of natural meadows ; but, from 
the careless mode of management, it becomes malted, instead of 
being simply dried grass. This is evident from the smell errone- 
ously attributed to the presence of scented vernal grass, and in so 



IGJ. GENEUAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

moist a climate as that of Shetland, much nourishing matter, hav- 
ing become soluble by fermentotion, may be exhausted. Nothing 
can bo simpler or more certain than hay-making, if the circum- 
stances that produce malting be avoided. A good deal of coarse 
hay, known by the vernacular name of Tekkj is collected. It is 
composed chiefly of heaths and rushes, cut on the common and 
dried. Much of this is also used as litter, and it in this way fur- 
nishes an excellent ingredient of the manure used for bear. Little 
attention is paid to the artificial grasses, except by a few intelli- 
irent individuals, although rye-grass and clover are peculiarly suit- 
ed to the country, and would add very largely to its resources. It 
would be well if every cottar in Shetland were to follow the ex- 
ample of hb relatives in Norway, where, as Von Buch informs us, 
th easants of the northern coasts annually collect a large stock 
f sea-weed chiefly the Fucus digitatus^ which, afker steeping a 
. , ^^Q Iq fresh water, is carefully dried and stacked for winter 
|i f 1 Out fresh, and boiled sea- weed is occasionally, but spar- 
. I ifiven to cattle in spring in these islands, and it is evidently 
urishiog And wholesome. Proprietors would find it beneficial 
](eep several pasture inclosures, as well as small islands for 
reariQg ^^^ fattening cattle, and for assisting their tenants in the 
keep of their regular stock, in the event of bad seasons and scanty 

fodder. 

The more general rotation of cropping isijirst^ bear, with the 

manure spread above after sowing, and it seems as rational, in cer- 
tain circumstances, thus to top-dress corn as grass. Potatoes come 
nextj then oats simply harrowed in. Ley, an essential ingredient 
in every good Shetland rotation, follows. Lastly^ oats, and again 
bear as before. 

Clearing the ground of weeds, draining, and opening the sub- 
soil, are little thought of, and yet in average seasons the crops are 
good. Harvest usually commences in September. The habit 
is too general to allow the corn to become dead ripe before cutting, 
which, in the case of oats, is, in this climate, most hazardous, for 
the chief danger is from high winds in autumn. It may be affirm- 
ed, that, if the principal cereal crop had been bear, or if the oats had 
been sooner cut, the better half of the corn crop of the last four 
years might have been saved. It is to be regretted, that, while 
the most minute details on other points of agriculture are made 
public, accurate indications of the ripeness of corn crops are left 
to individual conjecture. 



COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 165 

The cattle, horses and sheep, of Shetland, are of races now al- 
most peculiar to it; possessing many of the good pointsof high breed, 
they add the invaluable one of hardihood. The cow is small, the 
four quarters seldom weighing more than 2 cwt. ; the quality of 
her milk is excellent, and its quantity, in relation to her size, abun- 
dant, sometimes reaching sixteen imperial quarts a*day. The ox 
is active^ gentle, and docile, and for draught is better suited 
to the present state of Shetland, than the horse. Both ox and 
cow are often 14 and 16 years old, before they are fattened for the 
knife, and yet the beef is observed to be tender, fine-grained, and 
highly flavoured. Owing to the scantiness of their winter fod- 
der, they are usually very lean, when put to summer grazing ; thus, 
much of the beef is what is termed new. Their food is natural 
pasture, containing many aromatic plants. T-he breed is a pecu- 
liar one, and the animal having arrived at adult age, the full fla- 
vour is attained, different in this from high bred stall-fed cattle, 
which, though they have reached their full size, have not gain- 
ed in all respects the maturity of their kind. Much beef is 
annually salted and exported. A little nitre is generally used in 
the curing; but it is an injurious addition. Simply strewing a 
sufficient quantity of bay salt, in largish crystals, between each 
layer of beef in the cask, applying pressure, and changing the 
pickle of a saturated strength two or three times, as it becomes 
foul or bloody, seems to be one of the best modes of curing beef, 
and which I myself regularly practise. The flesh of cattle killed, 
when the moon is growing, has been thought to stand curing bet-* 
ter than when it is in the wane ; and there may be reason in this ; 
a more plethoric and sthenic state may be induced in the animal, 
and hence a more tonic condition of the muscular fibre, and 
more vigorous health of the whole system. There 'are se- 
veral situations where flocks of brood cows, suckling their 
calves, and going out, all the year round, could be kept with 
great advantage ; they would require little more looking after 
than brood mares, and when old they are equally valuable for 
the butcher as when young. Cattle seem constitutionally har- 
dier than horses. Nature has adapted them to a wider geographi- 
cal range, while the native country of the horse is limited to a 
warm and dry climate, and he never can be brought to bear with 
impunity so great alternations of cold and moisture. The Shet- 
land poney is well known and generally esteemed for hardihood, 
strength, and spirit, in which he is surpassed by none of his size» 



166 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

in any country. He does not arrive at perfection, till eight or nine 
years of age; seldom stands higher than 44 inches, for the 
most part about 38. The general colour is a dark mouse gray, 
and he is covered with long woolly hair, till three or four years 
old. He is singularly free from vice, but is not so docile or sa- 
gacious, as high bred horses. His attachment to the locality where 
he has been bom is obstinate, often pining for years of maladie 
de pays, and this instinct, when strongly marked in the lower ani- 
mals, is not usually accompanied with great sagacity. However, 
education and chivalry may have ennobled the horse, his title to the 
brute patrician order seems not an inherent one. The poneys range 
in herds over the common, in an almost wild state, and have little 
care or food bestowed on them, unless when engaged in labour, 
or during long snows ; a handful of food is, in this latter case, oc- 
casionally given to them, as a condiment to season the sea-weed 
drifted on the beach, and freshened by snow water, on which they 
must then sustain themselves. Yet, under these circumstances, 
continuing sometimes for months together, they preserve their 
health and plight. If they were stabled, they would lose their 
hardihood, and the habit of catering for themselves, and their keep 
would be far more expensive than the actual farming economy of 
the country could afford. When old, they are never killed, but 
allowed to live as long as they can. 

The sheep is small ; not often horned ; ears pointed and erect ; 
face, back, and tail short ; fine-boned ; legs long ; naturally wild, 
active, and hardy, and little liable to disease ; the colour generally 
white ; sometimes ferruginous, gray, black, and piebald ; the wool 
very soft and often fine. The more damp and mossy the pasture, 
the softer is the wool ; one of the causes of which probably is, 
deficient strength and nourishment ; another, the astringent na- 
ture of the food. Sheep-farming, as a separate object, is now at- 
tracting some attention, although it is not likely to be carried 
on to so much advantage as in the Scottish Highlands. There, 
the sheep-walks are mountainous and inland, naturally dry, and 
contain a greater variety of pasture plants congenial to the breeds 
of sheep suitable for such situations, than can be afforded by the 
comparatively level and damp moors of Shetland, producing chief- 
ly mat-grass and rushes. A serious casualty affecting the value 
of a Shetland flock, arises from the constant vicinity of precipices 
facing the sea, to which sheep are attracted by the tender grass 
growing amongst them, and great losses, by their falling over the 



COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 167 

rocks, are often sustained. In the smaller grazing islands the ver- 
dure is luxuriant, consisting chiefly of /estucas, plantagat^ and 
staticey top-dressed by sea spray and exuviae of sea liirds, and in 
these, even the improved Leicester breed of sbeep thrives so well, 
as to be the most profitable of any. 

It is likely that our cattle, liorses, and sheep were derived from 
Norway; and it might not be fanciful to trace them even to the 
Caucasian range, the original seat of Odin and his people, whence 
they emigrated into Scandinavia with their families and flocks ; 
at least, there is a marked difference between our breeds of these 
animals and other well-defined European races. It might be, in 
many cases, of advantage, not only to preserve in purity, but also 
to trace the origin of, distinct breeds of animals, to facilitate im- 
provement without crossing ; but it is often as difficult to do this, 
as to determine the native country, in the wild state of certain do- 
mestic species. With regard to some of these, domestication may 
have been originally the rule, and the wild state the exception. 
No breeds of these three species of animals can, as a general rule, 
be better adapted to the Shetland Islands than those that are na- 
tive to them ; and, as they are always in great demand, we should 
do well zealously to cultivate them. All that is necessary is 
such a sufficiency of food and care as will not encroach too much 
on their natural habits and hardihood, and a persevering se- 
lection of the best animals for breeders ; yet, if premiums had 
been held out for producing change and degeneracy, it is difficult 
to imagine a course of management better calculated to produce 
them, than that which has mostly been pursued. A pernicious prac- 
tice has too much prevailed, of crossing with larger and incongru- 
ous breeds from Scotland ; and the progeny, as might have been 
expected, displays all the bad points, with few of the good, of the 
parents. A natural but rough antidote to these evils is, in some 
measure, to be found in bad seasons, which fall with fatal severity 
on the degenerate. One very evident and easy mode of improve- 
ment would be, for proprietors to keep males of a good race and ma- 
ture age, in different districts for general use, and insist on all infe- 
rior ones being removed ; and it could be easily so arranged that no 
party could suffer loss. The tenants suppose that every one's business 
is no one's ; and it hence, not unfrequently happens that calves and 
lambs, especially are wanting, because a sufficient number of bulU 
and rams are not reared, or those that are reared, are too young, or 
of a bad stock. Theannualloss to the country from this source alone^ 




168 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

is far greater, than many not attending to the subject could ima- 
gine. 

Hogs are universal ; but with very little trouble, the people might 
keep many more than they do. These also are of a very peculiar 
breed, small boned, erect ears, woolly next the skin, active, hardy, 
and easily fed ; and the pork is of very delicate flavour. A strong 
prepossession is by some entertained against their going loose on the 
common, from an idea that their rooting on it is injurious. This, 
however, is not always well founded, as might easily be showD. 
Absolute restriction, however, from turning over the arable ground, 
should be rigidly enforced. Far from checking their increase, it 
should by encouraged, as adding greatly to the comforts and re« 
sources of the tenants. 

Geese are kept by several individuals, but large flocks might 
be reared by almost every ode. Why they are not, it is difficult 
to say. Perhaps their requiring a little more trouble than is ha- 
bitual, may be the very sufficient reason. 

Land is possessed not by the acre, but the markj as it seems 
to have been in the parent country, Norway, and others of her co- 
lonies. This word signifies, in the Norse dialect, a coin, a 
weight, a field, and, in the present case, it may be translated 
as meaning a share^ or proportional quantity of land. Shetland 
contains about 14,000 marks; and a proprietor is said to be a 
laird of so many marks, not acres. All the land, with the excep- 
tion of the small grazing islands, was anciently divided, as it still 
remains, into districts of unequal extent, termed scattaldsj and 
the boundary lines of each defined and recorded. Each of these 
contained a certain number of marks, some greater, and others 
less. The marks or shares in any one scattald are of equal value, 
though they may be very different, as compared with those of an- 
other ; for one district containing 200 marks may be less exten- 
sive and valuable than another containing 100. In the event of 
dividing a scattald possessed by several proprietors, each receives 
his proportion according to the number of marks or shares in it 
which his rental bears. These scattalds are again subdivided 
into, Istf enclosed and appropriated, and, 2c/, unenclosed and unap- 
propriated ground. The former contains the arable, grass, and 
meadow lands, which bear a very small proportion to the unenclos- 
ed or commons. This mode of division into districts or scattalds 
was, it appears to me, coeval with the settlement of the first Nor- 
wegian colonists. Each adventurer with his followers fixed him- 
self in a certain situation, and boundary lines between localities. 



COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 169 

occupied by independent possessors, were determined, to prevent 
collision and encroachment. The division, again, into marks or 
shares was obviously to facilitate sale and succession. The read- 
er will here observe some curious points of resemblance between 
ancient Scandinavian, and very recently promulgated principles of 
colonization. In certain states of society it is expedient that por* 
tions of land should be held in community ; and, under any circum- 
stances, it is not apparent why joint-stock management should 
not have place in this as in other species of property. This iS} 
however, not a favourite doctrine in Shetland, for divbions of the 
commons, without any apparent agricultural object, are yearly tak- 
ingplace. As this processis expensive, and often vexatious, it might 
be as well previously to consider, whether more beneficial results, 
with less outlay, might not be obtained by divisions of parts of the 
commons, or by more prudent pro indivUo management of the 
whole, similar to what formerly was here the practice, and what 
has long been in operation under the orderly and well-digested sys- 
tem of rule carried on by the mild and paternal government of 
Denmark in the Faroe Islands. 

Property is in the hands of many individuals : a few heritors 
are comparatively large ones. The Earl of Zetland possesses a 
considerable entailed estate, which, however, from being much 
scattered over the country, is of far less value than it otherwise 
would he. The great benefit of exoambions is here most pal- 
pable. The value of land would be increased by concentration, 
management would be simplified and abridged, and the expenses 
of compulsory divisions diminished. The resident proprietors 
have been long actively anxious to effect exchanges with this only 
absentee landlord, on principles of equitable and reciprocal ad- 
vantage ; and it is to be hoped that the present worthy represen- 
tative of the family will perceive the propriety of removing an 
impediment to improvement, which has long pressed heavily on 
the islands. 

Long leases have often been proposed as a boon for Shetland 
peasants, and the landlords are quite disposed to grant them ; but 
it may be time enough to appreciate the value of this suggestioi^ 
vi^hen the tenants shall be disposed to accept them, which they ar^ 
not A more immediate and direct benefit would be produced 
were the landlords, instead of attending chiefly to the extensioD 
of their properties, to employ a part of the time of their tenants 
for hire, in improving the (arms by enclosing, draining, manure*^ 



170 GENBRAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

collecting, spade-trenching, &c (opening with the mattock the 
subsoil, but leaving it in situ, as I have practised for several years), 
thus at once permanently raising their value, bene6tting the te- 
nants, and inuring them to regular and useful land labour. For 
instance, at a small expense each cottar could enclose such an ex- 
tent of ground as might nuae so much i^re-grass and turnips, from 
seed of his own growth, as would enable Urn to keep wmantiig 
an additional cow, and do ample justice to all the rest of his live* 
stock ; and if this simple expedient alone were universal, the ren- 
tal of the whole country would soon be greatly increased. It may 
be affirmed, that by this and other simple and economical improve- 
ments, on which our limits will not here allow us to enlarge, and 
by more persevering industry, the lands already under cultivation 
might be rendered much more productive, without conflicting with 
the general habits and routine of the people ; and such graftings 
on the old system are confessedly to be preferred to uprooting and 
expensive innovations, which too often are found to rest on nothing 
but the love of novelty and generalization. 

Fisheries. — Cod, ling, tusk, saithe, and herring are the spe- 
cies of fish caught to be cured for sale. Ling and tusk have been 
long the staple articles of Shetland export. The home of the lat- 
ter may, in Great Britain, be said to be confined to Shetland, and 
it is a peculiarly rich and highly-flavoured fish. Both these are 
fished with long lines in boats of 18 or 19 feet of keel, with 
a crew of six men. The distance of the fishing ground from 
the land varies from ten to forty miles. The lines are laid 
at midnight, the common bait is the young coal-fish, and the 
season is from the end of May to the middle of August But 
the fishing should be continued two months later, and. then 
during the day alone. Cod and ling then draw nearer the shore, 
and are more numerous and diflused. The favourite bait, herring, 
is then abundant, and danger is diminished. This autumn fishing 
will probably be more valued and prosecuted than it yet is. The 
fish are split, salted in tubs, and dried on the pebbly beaches, 
which are numerous, and exceedingly well adapted to the purpose 
from their smoothness, dryness, and admitting of a constant cur- 
rent of cool air below them. The art of fish-curing in this manner 
is well understood, and the essential principle of pining or pressure 
is in general duly and even scientifically applied. Since the lands, 
hpwever, have been under the pseudo-free system, and deprived 
of the beneficial superintendence of the lairds, the curing of 



COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 171 

fish has been more slovenly, and their character in the market 
lowered. The chief season for fishing cod is April and May. For 
several years, this business has been carried on by numerous small 
decked vessels of from 20 to 40 tons, with hand lines, and shell- 
fish bait, and the fishing ground is the south and south-west 
sides of the coast The ling, tusk, and cod are also caught by 
small boats with hand lines at all seasons, but in comparatively li- 
mited numbers, and those got in winter are salted in heap till the 
spring drought arrives. The south and north extremities of 
the country are the localities where the saithe (Gadus carho" 
narius) are caught ; but there seems no reason why they should 
not be sought for with success, around the coast This is the 
most abundant and generally diffused fish in Shetland, if we 
may judge from the exuberant number of the young pervading 
every part of the shores. From saithe being caught with little ha- 
zard near land during summer, requiring small capital, and always 
selling readily in the home market, it will probably ere long be 
prosecuted as the most profitable and generally attainable branch 
of the fishing. The young of different ages and sizes called m/- 
lacks and piliacks^ are really the staff of life to the inhabitants of 
these islands, and they are both palatable and nutritious. The 
supplies of them, during the last four years of scarcity of bread^ 
have been providentially most abundant throughout, and but for 
this, notwithstanding the liberal charitable donations* frooa the 
south, famine must have occurred. Skate, haddock, halibut, and 
other kinds of fish are caught for consumption at home ; but they 
are little followed as separate objects of pursuit. 

As iar as the fishing by boats is concerned, it will be diflScult 
to point out a better mode than the one now in operation. The 
kind of boat is of the old Norway model improved, it is one 
of the finest combinations for rowing and sailing, and when not 
over-masted, (as it always is,) and under skilful and intrepid ma- 
nagement, is as safe as an open boat can well be. Boat fishing 
must, of course, often be hazardous here, as it is everywhere else ; 
but it has still advantages which will not permit its disuse. The 
losses that occur are mostly from mismanagement, and few acci- 
dents happen to boats in which the art of swimming would not 
be of vital use ; yet hardly a single fisherman acquires it, and an 
object of great moment would be its general introduction. The 

* In this work of benevolence the amiable and meritorious Society of Friends 
have been conspicuous, as diey erer'ttv^ in the sacred cause of Christian philanthropy. 



172 OBNBKAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

use of small dro?e saib would also be highly advisable. From 
the increased number of boats, and the practice of going earlier 
in the season to the fishing, when the ling are spawning, the fish- 
ing grounds near the shore had become considerably exhausted. 
Proprietors, therefore, Tery prudently hare discouraged this prac* 
tice during the last eight years, and the good effects of this are de^ 
cidedly showing themselves. In fishing with decked vessels^ 
the sea ground between Shetland and Norway should be carefully 
explored, and there can be no doubt it ^ould amply remunerate 
the expense.* 

Herrings have been industriously fished by boats for the last 
twenty years, from the middle of August till the middle of Octo- 
ber'; and to the patriotic Sheriff- Substitute, Mr Duncan, is due 
the credit of first establishing this branch of industry. The em- 
ployment is, however, attended in these islands with mere danger 
than on the Scottish coasts, from the more stormy and irregular 
nature of the climate, the numerous boisterous tide-currents, and the 
smaller extent of land on which, in the event of off shore wind, 
the boats have to lie ; neither do the fish appear to be so abun- 
dant or so regular in their movements. Though herrings, as well 
as other fish, are found in shoals at certain seasons, it does not fol- 
low that they so congregate at other periods of the year ; the 
spawning grounds may be viewed as centres ; the feeding ones, 
as circumferences. If they could be fished earlier in the 
season, the hazard would be less, and the returns might be 
greater. Sufficient experiments to ascertain this have not yet 
been made, but, no doubt, soon will be, for capital, enter- 
prize, and intelligence, are not wanting in Shetland, for a judi- 
cious development of its marine resources. But enlightened 
views with regard to fisheries have been far from keeping pace 
in any country, with other objects of economical researcli. 
The experience of the fisherman, the science of the naturalist, 
the aid of the statesman and the merchant, should hll be put in 
requisition, to explore and enlarge this fertile source of national 
wealth. Periodicals, in which the fisheries occupied a prominent 
place, would be of great use, and it is singular that the subject has 
been so much overlooked in this age of magazines and reviews. 
A great many erroneous hypotheses, leading to ignorant and per- 
nicious practice, have too long been dominant in our knowledge of 
he habits and history of fish, of which the theory of the annual 

* Query,— Why has steam never been applied to fishing ? 

3 



COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 173 

polar migration of the herring is an instance, and it is not to be 
supposed, that accurate and extensive observation, and cautious 
inference and analogy devoted to the subject, would fail in eliciting 
something like scientific principles, and in establishing most interest- 
ing and valuable practical results. Of all beings, the rude fisher- 
man is the most superstitious and theoretical, and almost all, we 
think, we know of the subject is derived from him. 

Trade. — Much intelligent commercial activity prevails. The 
exports consist chiefly of salt fish, oil, butter, beef, cattle, ponies, 
and hosiery ; the imports are, it may be supposed, very miscella* 
neous. A good many merchant vessels of respectable size, some 
of which have been built in the country, belong to it, and small 
fishing craft are very numerous. Leith is the great depot for 
Shetland produce. 

Manufactures^ — Knitting of various articles of hosiery and kelp 
making may be said to be the only native ones. They are especially 
useful as giving employment to that part of the population which would 
otherwise want profitable occupation ; and, moreover, in the case 
of kelp- making, asubstance becomes valuable, which otherwise would 
be left to waste away on the strand. Kelp was never so important 
an object in Shetland, as in Orkney and the Hebrides ; the shores 
are not so productive of the materials which afford it, nor is its 
quality so much prized ; but there is, doubtless, much yet to be 
learned in its chemistry and manufacture. Since the duty on 
barilla and other substances, in competition with kelp, has been 
taken off, its preparation has been almost laid aside, and its want 
is seriously felt. It is difficult to conjecture what other mo* 
tive, than a reckless adherence to the speculative dogma of Free 
trade, could have induced the British Legislature to inflict so 
severe a wound on the industry and resources of the Scottish 
islands, and which neither equity nor policy can honestly defend; 
much more oppressive and pernicious monopolies may tdce shelter 
under the mask of commercial freedom, than under the protective 
mantle of a prudent and patriotic government. Free trade is, af- 
ter all, only relative ; it has been imagined and described ; but 
when the globe shall become one vast Utopia, then only can we expect 
that its beau ideal will be realised. Among the advantages which 
Shetland might hope to derive from Legislative favour, a reduc- 
tion of the duties on timber generally, and particularly on boats 
from Norway, would be most valuable, and universally felt. These 
boats are imported in boards, and are of a class not in use in any 



174 GENBKAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

Other part of the kingdom ; hence no temptation to smuggling 
would exist Another benefit would be a drawback on the duty 
of a limited quantity of tobacco, tea, and sugar, for the use of 
the fishermen, in the same manner as it is granted t^ merchant 
.seamen. The mail-steamer running all the year through would 
also be a signal boon, as bringing Shetland completely within the 
vortex of the British market, and no satisfactory reason has yet been 
given why this adrantage, often solicited, has been withheld. 
The Isles of Man and of the channel enjoy many peculiar and 
important privileges; distant colonies are pampered; and it might 
not be unreasonable to expect some fostering patronage and com- 
mercial indulgence to be extended to the long neglected Shetland 
Islands. 

March 1840. 



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INDEX. 



Agriculture and rural economy, 3, 13, 

20, 27, 42, 54, 57, 76, 88, 93, 117 
Aithsness and voe, 101 
Antiquities, 3, 12, 25, 57, 59, 75, 87, 

109, 154 
Arch, natural, in Unst, 37 
Armada, wreck of one of the, 110 
Arms, ancient, found in Northmavlng, 

75 
AsU, lake, 68 
Balta Sound, 38, 48 
Bard Head, 8 

Barrows or tumuli in Sandsting, 112 
Bastavoe, 83 
Bays or voes, various, in Fetlar, 23 — in 

Northmaving, 71 — in Unst, 38 
Bigga, island of, 82 
Blue Mull Sound, 24 
Blumel Sound, 36 
Botany, 74, 108 
Bressay, Burra, and Quarff, united pa 

risbes of, 7 
Bressay, island of, 7 — sound, 1, 9 
Brindister voe and village, 101 
Brough, ruins of Picdsh castle at, 57 
Bimess house, 38 

BurJcns, land, and their origin, 63 
Burghs or forts, ruins of various, 111 
Burm island, 9 — frith, 38 
Burying places, ancient, in Bressay, 12 

— in Sandsting, 110 — in Unst, 40 
Busta house, 57 — standing stone of, 57 
Cattle, breeds of, see Live-stocjc 
Cave, artiticial, at Trondavoe, 57 
Caves, various, in Bressjiy, 7 
Character and habits of population, 27, 

76,87,116,156 
Christianity, introduction of, 155 
Cliromate of iron, working of, in Fetlar, 

23 
Chapels, ruins of ancient, in Tingwall, 

59— in Unst, 40 
Church, our Lady's at Weesdale, and 

tradition relating to, 69 
Churches, establii»hed, sec Ecclesiasti- 
cal Statistics 
Cliff loch, 37— sound, 9 
C'fimate, see Meteorology 
Clousta voe, 101 
Cod tishorv, see Fisheries 

SHETLAND. 



Colgravc Sound, 24, 32 

Conversion, compulsory, of the Earl of 

Zetland, 97 
Copper, attempts to work, at Fithill, 93 
Cottages of Shetland, the, 138 
Cottars, condition of the, 158 
Crops, the principal, raised in Sandsting, 

124 
Crucifield, Druidical remains at, 39 
Cullinsgarth, ruins of chapel at, 12 
Culsteniess, cave at, 57 
Current, rapidity of the, in Yell Sound, 

82 
Dairy husbandry and management, 124 
Danes, conquest of the Shetland Islands 

by, 60 
Del ting, parish of, 56 
Destitution in Fetlai and Yell, 35 
Dissenters and Dissenting Chapels, 17, 

22, 33, 49, 56. 58, 79, 90. 95, V3r> 
Dorholm rock and arch, 72 
Drongs rock, the, 71 
Druidical or Pictish circle in Northnhi- 

ving, 75 
Dunrossness, parish of, 93 
Eagleshey, island of, 71 
Ecclesiastical Statistics, 5, 16, 21* 32, 

49, 58, 69, 79, 90, 95, 135, 156 
Education, statistics of, 5, 17, 22, 33, 

49, 55, 58, 70, 80, 95, 136 
Fair Island, the, 93. 95 
Fairs and markets, 81, 137 
Fetheland, island of, 71 
Fetiar and North Yell, united pari-shes 

of, 23 
Fetlar, island of, 23 
Fisheries, cod, ling, &c. 15, 21, 29, 46, 

54, 58. 67, 78, 130— herring, 4, 16, 

30, 46, 54, 58, 67, 94 
Fisherman's fund, the, 137 
Fishing boats, frequent loss of, 86 — ^loss 

of seventeen in 1832, 45 — of four in 

1832,86 
Foreholra, island of, 100 
Fort at Culswick, ruins of. 111 
Fortifications, ancient, on Kirkholm, 

109 
Foula, cliffs of, 145 — island of, 19 
Fuel, 19.52,81,95, l;J8 
Carder House, 115 



178 



SHETLAND. 



Gardner, Rev. James, induction of, at 

Qiiarff, II 
Garth house, 57 
Geology and Mineralogy, 10,20, 24, 54, 

73, 95, 93, 103 
Giant's Leg, the, 8 
Girlsta lake, 68 
Gluss, inland of, 71 
Government, form of, under the Danes, 

98 
Gremista House, 3 
Gruting Bay, 100 
Gullcrwick, ruins of chapels at, 3 
Gunista, niins of church at, 12 
Gunister, island of, 71 
Haaf Grunie, island of, 38 
Hammer Head, the, 8 
Handmill, ancient, 112 — extensive use 

of the, 115 
Hangcliff Head, 8 
Harbour, remains of ancient, at Bfirra- 

voe, 57 
Harbours, various, in Tingwall. G8 
Hascusaey, islai.d of, 82 
Hermanness, the most northern point 

of Shetland, 34 
Herring fishery, see Fisheries 
Hcvera island, 9 
Hills wi.k bay, 71 
Hindigarth head, 83 
Holm of Noss, the, 8 
Horses, the Shetland breed of, 74 
Hosiery, manufactory of, 10, 47 
House island, 9 
Huna island, 38 
Husbandly, systems of, 13, 28, 43, 76, 

117 — cause, of the bad system of, 77- 

92 — inii)rovements of, in Tingwall, 

65 
Improvements in Yell, 91 — hindrances 

to, 92 
Inns and alehouses, 51, 138 
Islands, various, attached to Northma- 

ving, 71 — to I'nst, 38 
Kelp, manufactory of, 16 — decrease of, 

134 
Kirkholm, island of, 100— fortifications 

on, 109 
Lambaness, 49 
Lanima, island of, 71 
Land, burdens on, and their origin, 63 

— former method of subdivision and 

valuation of, 2 
Leases, reluctance to take, on the part 

of the tenants, 43 
Lerwick, parish of, 1 
Libraries and literature, 34, 50, 95 
Lighthouse, need of, at BalUi, 48 
Live-stock, breeds of, 28, 45, 78, 89, 

123 
LocliSf jiumerous, in Saudsting, 102 
Lunasting church, 55 



Lunnafirth, 82 
Lussetter, Ness of, 83 
Maiden Skerry, the, 72 
Mainland island, the, 145 
Manufactures, various, in Lerwick, 4 — 

of hosiery, 16, 47— of kelp, 16, 134 
Marches, fixing of the, 64 
Meteorolog)' and climate, 72, 84, 99, 

145 
Mid and South Yell, parish of, 82 
Midyell voe, 83 

Mildew, destruction of the crops by, 66 
Mineralogy, see Geologj' 
Mossbank house, 57 
Muckle Roe, island of, 99 
Muness Castle, ruins of, 39 
Nesting, parish of, 53 
Nibcn, island of, 71 
Northmaving, parish of, 70 
North Roe, ruins of church at, '75 
North Yell, island of, 23 
Norwick bay. 38 
Noss island and sound, 73 
Nunsburgh Ness, 101 
Obelisks, ancient, at Grenwell and 

Uyea, 39 
Ollaberry, ruins of church of, 75 
Ord head, the, 8 
Osse Skerry, the, 72 
Papa, island of, 9 — Little, island of, 

101, 102— Stour, island of, 19 — 

Sound, 19 
Pauperism, see Poor 
Pictish Remains in Bressay, 12 — at 

Brough, 57 — at Lerwick, 3 — in 

Northmaving, 75 — in I'nst, 59 
Plough, the old Shetland, 65 — disuse of, 

117 
Pony, the Shetland, 74, 125 
Population returns, 3, 12, 20, 20, 41, 

54,57,64,76,87,93, 115 
Poor, management of the, 6, 18, 22, 34, 

51, 55, 58, 70, 80, 91, 137, 156 
Quarff, parish of, 8— church, 1 1 
Quarries, chroniate of iron, 45 — free- 
stone, 4 — limestone, 45— slate, 15, 

65 
Quern or handmill, extensive employ- 
ment of, 115 — ancient^ 112 
Qnoyhouse loch, 37 
Ramnastacks, 72 
Reawick house, 115 
Rent, rates of, 13, 27, 44, 54, 57, 63, 

129 
Rona's hill, 70 
St Magnus's bay, 71 
St Ninian, introduction of Christianity 

into Shetland by, 60 
Samphrey, island of, 82 
Sand house, 1 15 
Sands, drifting of the, and injury done to 

X\xe \wvd therebv, 94 



INDEX. 



179 



Sandsound voc, 100 

Sandstiiig and Aithsting, united parishes 
of. 97 

Savings bank, G 

Saxa Vord hill, 37 

Scalloway castle, 60 — village of, 60 

Schools, sec Education 

ScroflUa, prevalence of, in Yell, 84 

Selivoe, 100 

Sheep, diminution of the number of, 
64-— the Shetland breed of, 126 — see 
also Live-stock 

Shetland islands, general observations 
on, 145 — agriculture, 162 — alleged 
discovery of, 97 — antiquities, 154 — 
botany, 150 — diseases prevalent in, 
147 — ecclesiastical statistics, 174 — 
fisheries, 170 — geology, 147 — history, 
60 — live-stock, 165 — manufactures, 
173— population, 155 — zoology, 148 

Shipping belonging to Lerwick, 5 

Sinclair of Strom, residence of, 69 

Skeld, ruins of church and fort at, 1 10 
— voes of, 100 

Skerries Islands, the, 53 — church, 55 

Small-pox, ravages of, in Unst, 41 

Societies, benc^t, 157 — friendly, 18— 
temperance, 157 

Spade, general use of the, 77, 91 

Springs, remarkable, on the summit of 
Rona*8 hill, 73 

Standing stones at Skeld, tradition rc- 
ganling. 111 

Steinbartes, or stone axes of the Shet- 
landeis, 1 13 — found in Tingwall, 59 

Stenness, island of, 71 

Stream Sound, the, 9 

Strom, lake and castle of, 68 . 

Sulom voe, 56 

Sumburgh head and lighthouse, 94, 145 

Superstitions, various, 141 

Swine, the Shetland breed of, 128 



Tides, rapidity of the, 38 

Tingwall lake, 68 

Tingwall, Whiteness, hnd Wcesdale, 

united parishes of, 59 
Trout, peculiar methods of taking, 107 
Tumuli, ancient, in Ting\vall, 59 
Ullhouse, 57 

Umphray, Rev. William, bequest by, 1 1 
Unicorn rock, the, I 
Unst, parish of, 36 
Urns, stone, found in Unst, 40 
Uyea sound and island, 38, 48, 7 1 
Vaila, island and sound of, 19, 100 
Valleyfield hill, 36 
Value of land, produce, &c. at different 

periods, 139 
Yemen try, island of, 101, 102 
Voes or bays, various, in Northmaving, 

71 — in Sandsting, 100 — in Tingwall, 

68 
Vord hUl, the, 37 
Wages, rates of, 14, 44, 129 
Walls, parish of, 19 
Ward hill, the, 7 
Waste land, improvement of, 66 
W^atch-house, ancient, on Rona, 75 
Watly loch, 36 

Weapons, the ancient, of Shetland, 1 12 
Weesdale, island of, 59 
Weights and measures used in Shetland, 

140 
West Burrafirth, 101 
Whalefirth voe, 83 
y^lialsay, church of, 55 — house, 54 — 

island of, 53 — sound, 54 
Whiteness church, 69 — island of, 59 
Wrecking, propensity of the population 

to, 146 
Yell, island of, 23, 83— sound, 82 
Yell, Mid and South, parish of, 82 
Zoology, 10, 24, 74, 86, 107 



raiNTID BY JOHN STARK, 
OLD ASSSMBLT CLOSK, EDIIfBUROH. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



VOL. XT. 



a 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Aan water, xl Kincardine, 231, 232 
Abbethune house, xL For&r, 497 
Abbej, coal at, vL Lanark, 81 
Abbey, village of, it Haddington, 4 
Abbey, village of, >m Stirling, 228, 427, 

432 
Abbey of Arbroath, xi. For&r, 77 
Abbey of Cambuskenneth, viii. Stirling, 

425 
Abbey of Coupar Angus, x. Perth, 1143 
Abbey of Croosraguel, v. Ajrr, 782 
Abbey of Culross, x. Perth, 600 
Abbey of Dryburgh, il Berwick, 27 
Abbey of Dull,'x, Perth, 765 
Abbey of Duadrennan, iv. Kirkcadbright, 
• 357, 362 

Abbey of Eccles, ii. Berwick, 57 
Abbey of Feam, xiv. Ross, 25, 361, 440 
Abbey of Ilolywood, iv. pumfriesi 558 
Abbey of Incheffray, x. Perth, 749 
Abbey of Jedburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 7, 8 
Abbey of Kelso, iil Roxburgh, 308, 317 
Abbey of Kilwinning, v. Ayr, 816 
Abbey of Kinloss, xiii. Elgin, 206 
Abbey of Lincluden, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

232 
Abbey of Luce, iv. Wigton, 68 
Abbey of North Berwick, ii. Haddington, 

326 
Abbey of Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 169, 203 
Abbey of Pluscarden, xiiu Elgin, 8 
Abbey of Scone, x. Perth, 1055 
Abbey of Soulseat, iv. Wigton, 87 
Abbey of Sweetheart, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

249 
Abbey of Tongland, iv. Kirkcudbright, 88 
Abbey of Whithorn, iv. Wigton, 64 
Abbey church, Dunfermline, ix. Fife, 852 
Abbey church. Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 193 
Abbey parish of Paisley, see Paisley 
Abbey bridge, coins found at, iiL Rox- 
burgh, 13 
Abbey Craig cliffe, viii. SUrling, 220, 223, 

227 
Abbeyfield, plantations at, v. Ayr, 3 
Abbej'green, village of, vi. Lanark, 30, 38 
Abbeyiand of Turriff, xii. Aberdeen, 988 
Abbey, St Bathans, pariah o^ ii. Berwick, 

105 
Abbeytown bridge, viii. Stirling, 281 
Abbcywell, Urquhart, xiii. Elgin, 46 
Abbotrule, suppressed pariah of, iil Rox- 

buigh, 98, 280, 290 



Abbotsford house, iii Roxburgh, 53, 62 
Abbotshall, parish of, ix. Fife, 146 — town, 

159 
Abbotshaugh, the, viii. Stirling, 24 
Abbotts isle, the, vii. Argyle, 516 
Abbofa tower, Jedburgh, iil Roxburgh, 

11 
Abbot's tower. New Abbey, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 250 
Abbofa walls, ruin called, xl Kincardine, 

201 
Abden house, ix. Fife, 804, 811— remains 

at, 809 
Abdie, pariah of, ix. Fife, 47 — church, 

ruina of, 51 
Aber mill, viii. Dunbarton, 215 
Aberarder, chapel at, xiv. Invemeaa, 519 
Aberargie, village of, x. Perth, 879 
Aberbrothock, aee Arbroath 
Abercaimey house, x. Perth, 250, 257 
Aberchalder, property of, xiv. Invemeaa, 

514 
Aberchirder, village of, xiii Banff, 382— 

parish, see Mamock 
Abercom, parish of, il Linlithgow, 18 — 

castle and property, 23 
Abercom foundery. Paisley, vii Renfrew, 

275 
Abercrombie or St Monans, parish of, ix. 
Fife, 337— village, 348— church, ruina 
of, 348 
Aberdalgie and Dupplin, united pariahes 

of, X. Perth, 875 
Aberdeen, city of, xil Aberdeen, 1— uni- 
versities, 1 1 39 
Aberdeenshire, observationa on, xii. Aber- 
deen, 1132 • 
Aberdona houae, viii Clackmannan, 127 
Aberdour, pariah oi, ix. Fife, 716 — vil- 
lage, 717— houae, 718 
Abeniour, pariah of, xil Aberdeen, 258«i 

bay, 260— New, village of, 265, 270 
Aberetle iale, viii. Dunbarton, 222 
Aberfeldie, village of, x. Perth, 697, 770 
Aberfoyle, pariah of, x. PerUi, 1150— 

battle at, 1104 
Abergeldie houae, xil Aberdeen, 650 
Aberiachan bum and falla, xiv. Invemeaa, 

4,39 
Aberlady, pariah of, il Haddington, 249 
—bay, 44, 250— village, 249, 254, 25« 
Aberlemno, pariah o^ xl For&r, 626^ 
atones of, 631 



IV 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Aberlour, parish of, xiii Banff, 110— 
burn, 111— daugh, I12_di8tillery, 120 
— house, 116 

Aberluthnott bum, xL Kincardine, 298 
— ancient parish of, 297 

Abermilk, ancient parish of, iv. Dumfries, 
203 

Abemethy, parish of, xiii. Elgin> 92— fo- 
rest, 57 

Abemethy, parish of, x. Perth, 838 — an- 
cient town, 841 — round tower, 847— 
village, 857, 859 

Abemyte, parish and glen of, x. Perth, 
219 

Abertarff, annexed parish of, xiv. InTe> 
ness, 51 

Aberuchil house, x. Perth, 584 

AbheaHch loch, xiv. Ross, 172 

Abington, camp at, vi Lanark, 503 — 
gold found at, 500 — village, 505 

Aboyne, bridge of, xii. Aberdeen, 788, 
790, 1066— castle, 1055— spring, 788 

Aboyne castle and village, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 232 

Aboyne and Glentanner, united parishes 
of, xii. Aberdeen, 1047 

Abroch bum, viii. Stirling, 139 

Abmthvcn church, ruins of, x. Perth, 290 

Accraploch quarry, v. Bute, 9 

Achacharra, Druidical remains at, vii. 
Arg>'le, 349 

Achadashenaig house, vii. Argylc, 357 

Achalick bay, vii. Argyle, 360 

Achall loch, xiv. Ross, 74 

Achallader castle, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 96 

Achally hill, x. Perth, 1024 

Achanacy hill, xiii Banff, 389 

Achandrane village, vii. Argjle, 27 

Achancilan moss, vii. Arg}'Ie, 127 

Achantiobairt, mins at, vii. Argjie, 25 

Achar, obelisk at, vii. Argyle, 242 

Achardale, clachan of, xv. Caithness, 74 

Acham cascade, &c. x. Perth, 455 

Achastle castle, ruins of, xv. Caithness, 
91 

Achavanich, rocks at, xv. Caithness, 87 

Achbreck chapel, xiii. Banff, 140 

Achchipster, district of, xv. Caithness, 79 

Achenkill, ruins of cllapel at, viii. Dun- 
barton, 141, 143 

Achenreoch house, xi. Forfar, 666 

Achenreoch loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 347 

Achenskeoch cnstle, ruins of, iv. Kirk- 
cudbright, 216 

Achentorlie house, viL Renfrew, 198 

Achilt, Ben, xv. Caithness, 84 

Achilty' loch, xiv. Ross, 236 — remains at, 
237 

Achimore hill, v. Bute, 107 

Achin, see Aldn 

Achinbee, chapel at, viii. Dunbarton, 141 

Achinblae, village of, xi. Kincardine, 68, 
89,90, 102, 103 

Achincass, fall at, iv. Dumfries, 125 — 
castle, ruins of, 127 

S 



Achindarroch house, vii. Aigyle, 262 
Achinduin castle, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 24 1 
Achinlaich castle, mins o^ x. Perth, 355 
Achinstarej, Roman road at, viii. Dun- 

barton, 141 
Achleck, falls of, vii. Argyle, 1 66 
Achlee, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 182 
Achleeks house, x. Perth, 569 
Achlishie, cave at, xi. For&r, 177 
Achlunies house, xi. Kincardine, 191 
Achlyne house, x. Perth, 1086 
Achmithie caves, xi. Forfar, 491 — Til- 
lage, 498, 513, 515 
Achmore, district of, x. Perth, 702— 

house, 710, 1086 
Achnacarry house, xiv. Inverness, 119, 

122 
Achnacloich loch, xiv. Ross, 264 
Achnacree house, xi. Forfar, 313 
Achnacroish harbour, vii. Ajgylc, 230— 

house, 288 
Achnagol village, viL Aigyle, 27 
Achnahow glen, xv. Sutherland, 1 34 
Achnamoin, spring at,xv. Sutherland, 1 38 
Achnara, chapel at, xiii. Banfi^ 140 
Achneem, rocks at, xiii. Nairn, 21 
Achness, xv. Sutherland, 69 
Achnuallan, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 

470 
Achpheadair, district of, xv. Caithness, 79 
Achrannie, slugs of, xL Forfar, 423, 637 
Achray tech, x. Perth, 350, 1150 
Achrenny, mission of, xv. Caithness, 79 
Achrhea house, xiii. Nairn, 2 
Achniglen tower, ruins of, v. Ajt, 846 
Achumore, spring, &c. at, xv. Sutherland, 

107, 108 
Achvaich, strath of, xv. Sutherland, 2 
Ackergill, liav and tower, xv. Caithness, 

119, 134, 141— house, 143 
Ackemess, xv. Orkney, 116 
Acnashine farm, xiv. Roas, 241 
Acraig, spring at, xv. Caithness, 70 
Ad water, vii. Argjle, 678 
Adam and Eve, trees called, v. Bute, 1 00 
Adam's castle, ruins of, xi. Kincardine, 

314 
Adamstown, plantations at, xi. Forfar, 653 
Adder law, iv. Dumfries, 170 
Adie hill, xiii. Bimff, 246 
Adigo loch, xiv. Robs, 160 
Adniston, property of, ii. Haddington, 

182 — house, mins of, 184 
Advie, annexed parish of, xiv. Invemes"*, 

432 
Advocates' h*brary, Edinburgh, i. Edin- 
burgh, 645 
Ac water, iv. Dumfries, 40, 67, 378 
Aebercurnig, ancient monasterv of, ii. 

Linlithgow, 18,23 
Aen water, xi. Kincardine, 231, 232 
AfTaric loch, xiv. Inverness, 484, 490 
Affleck castle, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 486 
Af^brsk, den of, xiii. Banff, 273 
Affric loch, xiv. Inverness, 363 



QENEBAL INDEX. 



Afton lodge, v. Ayr, 757-— water, 509, 510 
Aflon Bridgend, village of, v. Ayr, 520 
Agal>atha, fbrt of, ix. Fife, 28 
Agston, village of, ii. Berwick, 89 
Aharcle, quocul tacra pariah of, vii. Ar- 

gj'le, 158 
Aheurich glen, vii. Argyle, 125 
Aich hill, viii. Dunbarton, 156 
Aigas house and isle, xiv. Invemcfss, 488 
Aigle, see Edzell 

Aigrish isle and house, xiv. Inverness, 362 
Aikenbrae, remains found at, iii. Perth, 87 
Aikengalls, minerals at, ii. Haddington, 

235 
Aikenhauld church, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 

291, 302 
Aikenhead, property of, vii. Renfrew, 495, 

500 
Aikenway, property of, xiii. Banff, 364 — 

Elgin, 228, 231 
Aikemeas house, xv. Orkney, 200 
Aiket castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 294 
Aikman's hospital, vi. Lanark, 291 
Aikrigill tower, ruins of, xv. Caithness, 

141 
Ailsa craig, v. Ayr, 10, 381 
Ainart loch, vii. Argyle, 122, see also Ey- 

nort 
Aird linn, iv. Dumfries,. 474 
Aird of Farr, xv. Sutherland, 68 
Aird of Fergus, xiv. Inverness, 423 
Aird of Inch, iv. Wigton, 81 
Aird of Kirtomy, xv. Sutherland, 67, 68 
Aird of Lochbroom, xiv. Boss, 74 
Aird ofTong, xiv. Boss, 117 
Airdit hill, ix. Fife, 218 — castle, ruins of, 

223 
Airdlamont head, vii. Argyle, 360 — 

hoxise, 359, 365 
Airdler, remains on, xii Aberdeen, 385 
Airdmeannoch, district of, vii. Argyle, 

297— caves in, 299 
Aird-mhic-ceolain house, xiv. Inverness, 

246 
Airdniskich, xv. Sutherland, 68 
Airdrie hill, ironstone pita, vi Lanark, 

647— house, 244, 958— town, 244, 245 

chapel, 247 
Airdrie hill, Crail, ix. Fife, 942— house, 

942 
Aird's house and bay, vii. Argyle, 218, 

516 
Aird's moss, v. Ayr, 323, 325 
Aires, rocks at, iv. Wigton, 104 
Airgiod hill, x. Perth, 659 
Airhouse, plantations on, ii. Berwick, 91 
Airi-Innis loch, vii. Argjle, 166 
Airies moss, organic remains at, iv. Wig- 
ton, 12 
Airlie, parish of, xi. Forfer, 670 — castle, 

422, 423, 448, 671, 676, 678— house, 

174, 681— plantations, 445 
Airlywight house, x. Perth, 434 
Aimcoth hills, ii. Linlithgow, 55, 120 
Airs of Selivoe, the, xv. Shetland, 100 



Airth, parish of, >iii. Stirling, 280— castle, 
281, 283— hill, 280— minerals at, 144 
—village and harbour, 281, 284, 285 
Airthmithie, village of, xi. Forfar, 240 
Airthrey castle and park, viii. Stirling, 

215, 221, 227— mineral spring, 227 
Aish loch, XV. Sutherland, 214 
Aite Suidh Fhin hill, xiv. Inverness, 218 
Aith bav, xv. Shetland, 23 — burial ground, 

UO-lschool, 136 
Aith loch, XV. Orkney, 46 
Aithbanks fisheries, xv. Shetland, 30 
Aithemie, remains found at, xi. Fife, 268 
Aithsness, x v. Shetland, 1 01 ~ remains at. 



25 



Aithsting, annexed parish of, xv. Shet- 
land, 97 
Aiths voe, xv. Shetland, 101 
Aitnach craig, ruins on, v. Ayr, 219 
Akermoor loch, iii. Selkirk, 36 
Akin Kvle, xiv. Inverness, 134 — Rosis 

178, 184 
Aladale glen, vii. Argyle, 125 
Albie thorn, the, iv. Dumfries, 183 
Alclud, ancient town of, viii. Dunbarton, 3 
Aldarder bum, xiii. Elgin, 62, 69 
Alder hill, xiv. Inverness, 505 
Alderbeck house, iv. Dumfries, 280 
Aldemie bum, xiii. Banff, 356, 359 
Alderston house, ii. Haddington, 6 
Aldgirth bridge, iv. Dumfries, 461 
Aldham, annexed parish of, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 29 
Aldhouse, village of, vi. Lanark, 893, 898 
Aldie bog, ix. Kinross, 47 
Aldie castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 1120 
Aldinny bum, x. Perth, 426 
Aldowie house, xiv. Inverness, 373 
^ Aldregnie bum, xiiL Banff! 126 
Aldyleth quarry, xiii. Banff, 248 
Aldyoulie bum, xiii. Elgin, 62 
Ale water, ii. Berwick, 131, 319, 366— iii. 
Roxburgh, 24, 35, 87, 88, 241, 268, 
270, 428 
Alemoor loch, iii. Roxburgh, 88, 270 
Alexandria bleachfield, viii. Dunbarton, 

225— village, 228 
Alford, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 485— 

bridge, 519 
Alin loch, vii. Ai^gyle, 168 
A 1 Inch water, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 
Allachie hill, xiii. Banff, 11 1 — daugh, 1 12 
Allachoy bum, xiii. Banff, 1 12 
Allnchy water, xiL Aberdeen, 1049 
Allan bay, iv. Wigton, 23 
Allan water, x. Perth, 298, 312, 315, 

1039,1160 
Allan water, iii Roxbuig;h, 53, 425, 428, 

460 
Allan water, viii. Stirling, 216, 306 
Allanbank, ii. Berwick, 269 — paper mills, 

271— chapel, 276 
Allander water, viii. Dunbarton, 36, 37, 

38— StirUng, 169 
Allanmouth peel, iii. Roxburgh, 428, 433 



VI 



OENEfiAL INDEX. 



Allan's hospital school, viii. Stirling, 441 
Allans, rocks called, v. Bute, 78 
Allanshaw, vi. Lanark, 269 
Allanton beg, camp at, v. Ayr, 1 82 
Allanton bum, iv. Dunlf^ie^ 460 
Allanton collieries and ironworks, vi La- 
nark, 610, 775--haugh, 257— house, 
616, 620, 958-.property, 619 
Allanton mineral spring, ii. Berwick, 266 

—village, 267 
A Hardy ce castle, ruins of, xi Kincardine, 
* 9 159 

Aliermuir hill, i. Edinburgh, 108, 324 
Allerton, limestone at, vi. Lanark, 882 
Allerton quarry, vii. Renfrew, 387 
Alliacaig, dun of, xiv. Ross, 448 • 
Alloa, parish and town of, viii. Clack- 
mannan, 1 — breweries, 51 — collieries, 
25 — glassworks, 49 — house and park, 
17, 37, 43— tower and wood, 2, 42 
Alloway, annexed parish of, v. Ayr, 2— 

kirk, 38 
Almagil hills, iv. Dumfries, 206, 371, 373 
Ahnericlose house, xi. Forfar, 498— mills, 

501 

Ahnond water, I Edinburgh, 134, 135, 
357, 434, 435, 589, 594— ii. Linlith- 
gow, 76, 90, 115,150 

Almond water, x. Perth, 7, 142, 144, 163, 
165, 199, 251, 252, 263, 266, 488, 
1028, 1029— glen, 268, 488-.vale, 268 

Almond castle and church, viii. Stirling, 
205,211 

Almondbank, village of, x. Perth, 151, 

154 
Almondell house, ii. Linlithgow, 87 
Almshouse of Oxnam, iii. Roxburgh, 

266 
AlncM, parish of, xiv. Ross, 332 — bum, 

264, 274, 334— village, 346 
Alsh loch, xiv. Ross, 107, 1H4 
Altachovlachan bum, xiii. Banff, 126 — 

battle, 130 
Altanfeam loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Altan-na-cat burn, xv. Caithness, 69 
Altan nan cealgach bum, xiv. Ross, 403 
Altam bum, xiii. Banff, 356, 359 
Altcolle ravine, xv. Sutherland, 194 
Altdouran glen, iv. Wigton, 123 
Altens harbour, xi. Kincardine, 196 — 

property, 205 
Alterwell property, xv. Caithness, 116 
Alt Gary point, viii. Dunbarton, 96^ 232 
Altgraad water, xiv. Rosa, 314 
Altimarlach bum, xv. Caithness, 123, 131 
Altimarlach, battle of, xv. Sutherland, 1 99 
Altin gl^n, xiv. Invemess, 286 
Altirlie point, xiv. Invemess, 377 
Altivaig fisheries, xiv. Invemess, 253 — 

rocks at, 247— bay antl isle, 240 
Altmore hill, xiii. Banff, 214 
Altnabrog, plantations at, xiv. Ross, 124 
Altnagawn, battle at,xv. Sutherland, 143 
Altnalait bum, xiv. Ross, 313 



Altnarie bum, xiii. Nairn, 27 

Alton house, vi. lAnarfc, 733 

Altonbum hill, v. Ayr, 746 

Alton of Loudoun, village o^ t. Avr, 851 

Aitpatrick bum, vii. Renfrew, 147' 

Altrive lake, iil Selkirk, 47 

Altruadh water, xiii Elgin, 138 

Alt Torquil bum, xr. Sutherland, 148 

Altyre bum, xiii. Elgin, 241— bouae and 

woods, 188, 239, 244 
Alum well, the, ix. Fife, 128 
Alva, parish of, viii Stirling, 175— bam, 
177, Clackmannan, 77 — ^houae, Stir- 
ling, 181, 182— mines, 178 — Tillage, 
182 
Alvah, parish of, xiii. Banff, 144 — hill, 3, 
. 144— bridge, 4, 146— xii Aberdeen, 

282 
Alves, parish of^ xiii. Elgin, 101 

Alvie, parish of, xiv. Inveraees, 81 loch, 

ib. S3 
Alwhannie Nowes, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

Alyth, parish of, x. Perth, 1 1 1 — forast, 
1111, 1116— bum and hiU, 1111— Til- 
lage, 1114, 1121, 1125 
Amat cottage, xiv. Ross, 423 
Amaton bum, xv. Caithness, 114 
Amhain mhor water, vii Aigyle, 49 — xir. 

Inverness, 325 
Amhige loch, x. Perth, 540 
Amilo dorch valley, xiv. Invemess, 119 
Amisfield house, &c. iv. Dumfries, 43, 44 
Amisfield house, &c ii Haddington, 1, 5 
Anchinreoeh house, viii. Stirling, 244 

Ancmm, parish of, iii. Roxbuigh, 241 

village, 242, 248— house, 242, 243, 244 
—moor, 119,242 
Ander hill, xv. Shetland, 7 
Andersonian Universitv, the, iv. Lanark. 

179 
Andet, chapel at, xii. Aberdeen, 972 
Andhu loch, xiv. Invemess, 89 
Andunty loch, xiv. Invemess, 380 
Aney c|uarry, x. Perth, 352 
Angel's hill, vii. Argjle, 337 
Angry bum, the, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Ankerxille fair, xiv. Ross, 26 
Ann bum, v. Ayr, 179 
Annan, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 51 6 — cas- 
tle, 524, 525- hill, 517— town, 522, 
533— river, 29, 102, 124, 125, 137, 151, 
172, 176, 190, 204, 205, 245, 246, 289. 
290, 371, 372, 378, 451, 452, 516— iii 
Peebles, 59 
Annan Waterfoot, village ot iv. DumfVies. 

51 H, 529 
Annandale, iv. Dumfries, 205, 567 
Annat point, ix. Fife, 827 
Annat, davoch of, xiv. Invemess, 484 
Annat water, x. Perth, 1 226 
Annat 's stone, xiv. Inverness, 305 
Annaty bum, x. Perth, 1041 
Annishmd collier)-, m Renfrew, 8 



GEKEBAL IKDEX. 



VI I 



Annock water, v. Ayr, 290, 523, 728 — 

lodge, 525 
Aiwtruther burn,^ix. Fife, 613, G16— 

house, 984 
Aiutruthcr Easter, parish o^ ix. Fife, 

295— town, 296 
Anrtruther Wester, pandi of, ix. Fife, 

611— town, 620,623, 629 
Antermony house, viii. Stirling, 244 
Antoninus' wall, ii. Linlithgow, 20, 60, 65, 

127 
Anton's hill, ii. Berwick, 54 
Anwoth, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 373 
Aonoch sassan hill, xiv. Inverness, 484 
Aora water, viL Ai^gyle, 1, 6, 7 
App water, v. Ayr, 416 
Appin, district of, vii. Aigvle, 225 — house, 

228— village, 251 
Appin hill, remains on, iv. Dumfries, 475 
Appin colliery, ix. Fife, 834 
Appin, strath of, x. Perth, 753 
Applecross, parish *and district of, xiv. 

Ross, 99— water, 100— house, 101 
Appleg^h and Sibbaldbie, united pa- 

nshes of, iv. Dumfries, 170 
Applegarth moat, iv. Dumfries, 183 
Appletreehall, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 81 
Apprentice's pillar, Roslin, i. Edinburgh, 

347 
Apwanly, property of, xiii. Banff, 205 
Aquhamey, &ctorpr, xil Aberdeen, 972 
Aquhhie house, xi. Kincardine, 219 
Aran cairn, v. Bute, 54 
Aray glen and water, vii. Argyle, 1, 2, 6, 7 
Arbeadie, property of, xi. Kincardine, 

326— village, 355 
Arbigland house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 285 

238 
Arbikie^ tumulus at, xi< For&r, 326 
Arbirlot, parish of, xi. Forikr, 332 
Arboll, improvements at, xiv. Ross, 464 
Arbory hill, camp on, vi. Lanark, 817 
Arbroath, parish and town of, xi. Forfiur, 

74, 489— Abbey, 77 
Arbroath and Forfiur railway, xi Forfar, 

697 
Arbuthnott, parish o^ xi. Kincardine, 153 

—house, 154, 161 
Arc cairn, the, xiv. Inverness, 15 
Arches croft, remains at, vi. Lanark, 321 
Archerbreck water, iv. Dumfries, 485 — 

collieries, 486 
Areherfield house, ii. Haddington, 212 
Archiestown, village, &c. o^ xiii. Elgin, 

62, 67, 77 
Ard, loch, X. Perth, 1151 
Ardai^e, fort of, x. Perth, 7 1 7 
Ardblair loch, x. Perth, 903 
Archadiiill head, xiv. Ross, 74 
Ardchattan, parish of, vii. Argyle, 468 — 

priory, 495 
Aidclach, parish of, xiii. Nairn, 26 
Ardcronie, rock at, xiv. Ross, 453 
Ardeer, remains found at, v. Ayr, 428— 

quarry, 430, 437 



Ardelistcr isles, viL Argyle, 661 
Arden limeworks, vii. Renfrew, 35, 36 
Ardenconnel house, viii Dunbarton, 67, 

75 
Ardeonaig, mission and chapel of, x. 

Perth, 1092 
Ardersier, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 462 

— point, 471 — ferry, xiv. Ross, 350 
Ardgartan house, vii Aigyle, 712 
Ardgay, village of, xiv. Ross, 432 
Ardgour ferry, &c. xiv. Inverness, 1 IB- 
plantations, 120 — house, 122 
Ardgowan house, vii Renfrew, 433, 526, 

— tower, 526 
Ardincaple castle, &c. vii Argyle, 474 — 

viii. Dunbarton, 67, 75 
Ardinning loch, viii. Stirling, 73 
Ardintoul bay, xiv. Ross, 186 
Ardivachar head, xiv. Inverness, 183 
Ardkinglass castle, vii. Aigyle, 705-^ 

house, 712 
Ardlair, cairn at, xi Kincardine, 237 
Ardle water, x. Perth, 240, 638, 639,786, 

904,1178,1180 
Ardleish, fiurm of^ viii. Dunbarton, 94 
Ardluaaa house, vii Argyle, 540 
Ardmaddy bay, vii Argyle, 73— castle, 74 
Ardmamoch hoiise, vii Argyle, 366 
Ard Meadhonach hill, xiv. Ross, 39 
Ardmeanach, district of, xiv. Ross, 383— 

hills, 348 
Ardmellie house, xiii Banff, 383 — quarry, 

384 
Ardmichael head, xiv. Inverness, 183 
Ardmiddle hill, xii Aberdeen, 982, 993, 
Ardmile head, xiv. Inverness, 183 
ArdmiUan, copper ore at, v. Ayr, 395 
Ardminish bay and house, vii Argyle, 396 
Ardmore bay, vii Argyle, 661 
Ardmore head, viii. Dunbarton, 67, 84-i- 

house, 87 
Ardmore, battle at, xiv. Inverness, 329 
Ardmore harbour, xiv. Ross, 453, 459 
Ardmucknish bay, vii. Argyle, 474 
Ardnacallich head and bay, vii. Argyle,. 

347 
Ardnacross bay, vii Argyle, 455 
Ardnafuaran church, vii Aigyle, 147 — 

viUage, 149 
Ardnamurchan, parish of, vii Argyle, 117* 

—head, 129, 130 
Ardnave point, vii Argyle, 644 
Ardneill hiU, v. Ayr, 244, 257— bank, 

244, 246— bay, 245 
Ardo, plantations at, xi Kincardine, 1 8 h 

—remains at, 183 
Ardoch loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 370 
Ardoch house, viii. Dunbarton, 87 
Ardoch, quoad §€tcra parish of, x. Perth,. 

328, 331— camp, 321— plantations, &c. 

318— water, 1039,1226 
Ardonald lime works, xii Aberdeen, 1617' 

—xiii. Banff, 96, 127 
Ardoyne hill, xii. Aberdeen, 635 
Ardpatrick head, vii Argyle, 409 



VI II 



QEKERAL INDEX. 



Arilriusaig harbour and village, vii Ai^ 

gyle, 270, 274 
Ardroscadale chapel, v. Bute, 103 
Ardross plantations, xiv. Roas, 266 — im- 
provements at, 274 
Ardrossan, paridi of, v. Ayr, 191— bay, 
192— town, 193, 199, 201— formers' 
society, 233— canal, 242 — castle, 197 
—railway, 203— vil Renfirew, 562 
Ardrossan, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 462 
Ardscalpie bay, v. Bute, 96 
Ardshicl cave and hill, vii. Argyle, 227 
Ardstinchar castle, v. Ayr, 418 
Ardtealla bay, vii. Argyle, 661 
Ardtoe bay, vii. Argyle, 156 
Ardtomish castle, vii. Argyle, 184 — bay, 

190— fells, 166— quarries, 170 
Arduthie, spring at, xi Kincardine, 245 

—village, 262 
Ardvare loch, xv. Sutherland, 105 — hai^ 

hour, 115 
Ardveirge, tradition regarding, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 423— house, 427 
Ardvorlich bay, viiL Dunbarton, 95 
Ardvorlich house, x. Perth, 584 
Ardvrack castle, xv. Sutherland, 109, 111 
Ardvrecknish house, vii Argyle, 85 
Ardwall house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 382 
Ardwell house, iv. Wigton, 164 
Areeming church, iv. Kirkcudbright, 259 
Ar Fhinn cairn, v. Bute, 54 
Argrennan house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 89 
Arg>'le house, viii. Stirling, 423 
Argyle stone, Nii. Renfrew, 18 
Argyle's battery, i. Edinburgh, 652 
Argyleshire, observations on, vii. Argyle, 

707 
Arichonan hill, vii. Aigyle, 632 
Aricliny loch, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 
An Dhoil chaim, xiv. Ross, 157 
Arinangour, village of, vii. Arg}'le, 217,218 
Arisaig, district of, vii. Argyle, 1 18, 120 

—head, 130— house, 148 
Arity bum, xi. Fife, 234 
Arkaig loch, xiv. Inverness, 118 
Arkendeith tower, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 391 
Arkcy brae, tumuli at, xii. Aberdeen, 147 
Arkland hill, iv. Dumfries, 502 
Arkle hill, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Arkleston, rock at, vii. Renfrew, 155 
Armadale caatlti, &c. xiv. Inverness, 317, 

318, 320 
Armadale, village of, ii. Linlithgow, 162 
Armidale valley, xv. Sutherland, 67 — 

bay, 68 
Armin hill, xv. Sutherland, 214 
Amal water, xiv. Ross, 143 
A mate bum, x. Perth 689 
Arnbarrow hill, xi. Kincardine, 69 
Arnbeg, conventicle at, viii. Stirling, 267 
Ambrae house, ruins of, xiii. Stirling, 1 52 
Arachluy chapel, x. Perth, 1105 
Amcroach, chapel at, ix. Fife, 918 
Amdilly house, &c. xiii Banff, 355, 362, 
366 



Arncybog colliery, viii. Dunbarton, 176 
Arn6nlay castle, viii Stirling, 268 
Arngaak, parish o£^ x. Perth, 882 
Amhall house, &c. xi Kincardine, 26, 

122 
Amifoul village, xi. Forfar, 347 
Amisdale village, xiv. Inverness, 139, 140 
Amish point and lighthouse, xiv. Ross, 

126 
Amiston house, i. Edinburgh, 52, 157^ 

173 
Amizort chapel, xiv. Invemese, 323 — 

loch, 354 
Ammore, fort at, viii Stirling, 268 
Araprior, school at, viii. StirSng, 271 
Amtully, improvements at, x. Perth, 11 34 

—village, H35 
Aroe bay and castle, vii Aigyle, 357, 661 
Arradoul, coins found at, xiii. Banff, 255 

— chapel, 265 
Arran isle, v. Bute, 1, 40 — castle, 4 
AiTSiVB, mill, xi. ForfiA-, 134 
Arrdanes, battle of, xiii Ban£^ 224 
Arrin, battle at, v. Bute, 1 
Arrochar, parish o^ viii Dunbarton, 94 

—inn, 98, 101 
Arrol, see Errol 

ArstaVi chapel, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 141 
Artendol church, xiii Banff, 355 
Arthur house, caum at, xi Kincardine. 

38 
ArthurJie, fell at, vii Renfrew, 317— ^fec- 
tory, 336— house, 329— printfield, 329, 
335— village, 330 
Arthur 1b seat hill, i Edinburgh, 381, 615, 

616,619 
Arthur's Oon, viii Stirling, 357 
Artney glen, x. Perth, 578 
Arundel house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
Ary Leive quarrj-, xv. Caithness, 15 
Ascaig,loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Ascog loch, V. Bute, 82, 84, 99— bay, 83 

— ^house, 88 
Ascoile, valley of, xv. Sutherland, 1 49 
Ashare, district of, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Ashbura house, vu. Renfrew, 526 
Ashdale glen, v. Bute, 5 — ^water, 7 
Ashdow ravine, vm. Stirling, 62 
Ashcnyard loch, v. Ayr, 812 
Ashgrove loch, v. Ayr, 436, 812— house, 

815, 826 
Ashhill, camp at, vi. Lanark, 57 
Ashiestiel house, iii. Selkirk, 45 
Ashig chapel, xiv. Inverness, 305 
Ashintully house, x. Perth, 787 
Ashkirk, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 268 — 

loch, 269 
Ashley, property of, i. Edinbui^h, 83 
Asliton house, vii. Renfrew, 526 
Asleisk ciwtle, xiii. Elgin, 103 
Asta loch, XV. Shetland, 68 
Asscl water, v. Ayr, 395 
Assembly Hall, Edinburgh, i Edinbuigh, 

659 
Assint, parish o^ xv. Sutherland, 105— 



QBHKBAL UTOBZ. 



Kjle, lOd— locb, 107— quarries, xiv. 
Rom, 76 
Anieed burn, lii. Abeideen, 763 

Asylum for tho blind, Kdiabu^, L Edin- 
burgh. 737 

Atheiilaaefi:ril, parish of. ii. Haddington, 
41— vilUiRB, Ji—baUlr.-, 49 

Athenvum at Slitting, the, viii. Stirling, 



426 

Alhul for. 



-and Weem 



n Kills, 1. Perth, 455 



Aucherachen distillny, ziii. Bonlf, 13S 
Aucbeniach house, lii. AbetdMn, 547 
Auchinnmea, property of. viL lienft«ir, 
, 363 

AiJthiiU)latf vaiaw,.;d. Kincardine, 35,69, 

89,90. 102, 103 
Auchincar, obeliik tt, r. But«, 63 
'LUchiEiciwscflscadi;, iv. Dumfiies, 125-^ 

auUe, 127 
Auchinclooch, remains at, riii. Stirlinir 

l48-bum, 140 



Auch 



...Ayr.T 



Auchattie, propertj oT, li. Kincardine, 

324 
Auchbreck, chapel at, uii. Banff, 140 
AucheliSbn, brm oC, t. Bnl«, 50 
Auchenairn, cn'iiprly of, vi. Ijmark, 404 



luchiinltnnan, pTOpertj of, ri 



Anchenbo<rie eollierisa, TiiL Stirling, 3)0, 
331 

Aochencaim houie and Tillage if. Kirk- 
cudbright, SA6 

Auchcncoim plan(aticin&, iv.I>uinfiica,fi5 

Auchencruive houso. v. Ayr, 2 — propert; 
of. G51— colliery, 660 

Auchcncniive house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 
269 

AuchcndoUy, spring at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 
192 

Auchcndoirie, fort at, viii. Uunbarton, 180 

Auehendraoe boiue, r. Ayr, 33, 275 — 
tJHgedy, 362_caitle, 363 

Au chen^ith ,inipTovementa&t,v.Ayr,803 

Anchengeich mill, vi. Lanark, 4D1 — plan- 
tations, 404 



> of, xii. Abei- 



3115 

Auchengool house,!". Kirkcudbright, 36 1> 
Aucht-nharvie castle, v. Avr, 73*^pro- 

perty,441 
Auchenheath eotliery, ti. Lanark, S2 
Auchcnhcglish liuriol graund, viJL Dun- 

baiton, 222 
Auehunloi'h villii«c, vi. Lanark, 408 
Auchonlodmont colliery, vii. Renfrew, 168 
Auchenreoch house, xL Forftr, 666 
Auchenrue, remaiae at, i>. Wigton, 142 
Auchensaugh hill. vi. Lanark, 479, 4SS 
Auchenskeigh quarry, v. Ayr, 214 
Auchentiber limeworks, vi. Lanark, 316 
AuchanliUilina spout, viii. Stirling, 118, 

307 
Aucbentorlie hills, viii. Dunbarton, 16, 17 

— ciulle,a2 
Auchenvane, reniaini at, it. Wigton, 233 



Auehindotr church, n 

uchindory, remains at, xl For&r, 679 
uchindown castle, xiiL BanS 105 
iK-hiruluich. fiirni of.xv, Smhcrhmd, 19 
Auchineck, luipnivi^njciits at, viii. Stir- 
ling, 110 
Auchingmy house, vi. I«nark, 244 
Auchingree, remains M, v. Ayr, 220— 

fiictory, 233 
luchinhuirig properly, xiii. Et^ 120— 

Auchtnheath quarr.v. vi. Lanark, 18 
Auchinhew water, y. Bute, 42 
Aocbinhove, property of, ni. Aberdeen, 

1087 
Auchinlaich casUe, x. Perth, 355 
Auchinleck, parish of, v. Ayr, 322 — house, 
324, 3-25, 745- castle and old place, 
325— village, .126. 330— .juartias 338 
Auchinleck well, ri, Lanark, 399 
Auchiuloch property, vi. Lanark, 400 
Auchinmede, r<.-miuns at, r. Ayr, 220 
Auchinmullj ^illBge, viii. Stirling, 169 
Auchinraith hiiu«-, vi. Lanark, 319 
Auchinreath proj-crty, liii. Klgin, 120 
Auchinriboch limtniprks. viii. Slirling. 143 
luchinriroch property, \[ii. ^itirLng, J6i 
iuchinstenie hou.*!.', v[ii. ;>[irling, 156 
Auchintibber, limestone at, nil Dunbar- 

<n, lei 

Anclliiitcahan, remains at, viii. Dunbar- 
ton, 22 
\ui:hinl6iil house, jm. Banff; 386 
Aiichinvttlley property, viiL Stirling, ISS 
, properl.v of, viii, Dunbarton, 



Auchin 



193 
Auchiries c|Uanit?a. li 

house, 295 
kuchlane bum, iv. Eirkcudbiight, I' 



i. Aberdeen, 398- 



QENERAL IKBEZ. 



Auchlishie caves, &c. xi. Forfiur, 162, 177 
AuchloBsen loch, xii. Aberdeen, 1050«> 

property, 1087 
Auchluniea house, xL Kincardine, 191 
Auchlunkart house, xiii Banff, 365 — 

property, 356 
Auchlyne house, x. Perth, 1086 
Auchmacoy property, xii. Aberdeen, 806, 

807— tile- work, 819 
Auehmadies property, xiii. Banff, 364 
Auchmannoch house, v. Ayr, 132 
Auchmcdden, arch at, xiL Aberdeen, 259 

—dens, 262— hills, 717 
Auchmcre, cUstrict of, x. Perth, 702 
Auchmillan, village of, v. Ayr, 162, 164 
Auchmithie caves, xL Por&r, 491— vil- 
lage, 498, 513, 515 
Auchmoor bridge, ix. Kinross, 70 
Auchmorc house, x. Perth, 710, 1086 
Auchmore, cairn at, xiii. Banff, 186 
Auchmuty paper mills, ix. Fife, 672 
Auchnacree house, xL ForfEU*, 313 
Auchnagaim house, &c xiv. Inverness, 

459, 460 
Auchnahow strath, xv. Sutherland, 1 34 
Auchnamara water, vii. Aigyle, 633 
Auchness bum, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Auchnuallan, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 

470 
Auchonreveck tower, iv. Dumfries, 490 
Auchrannie slugs, xi. Forfiir, 423, 637 
Auchrhea house, xiii. Nairn, 2 
Auchry house, xii. Aberdeen, 764 
Auchter water, vi. Lanark, 608 
Aucbteran, remains at» xiv. Inverness, 56 
Auchterarder, parish of, x. Perth, 285^ 
house, 289 — town, 287 — agricultural 
association, 292 
Auchterderran, parish of, ix. Fife, 165 
Auchterflow bc^, xiv. Ross, 388 
Auchtergaven, parish of, x. Perth, 423 
Auchterhouse, parish of, xi. Forfer, 648 
— bum, 649 — house, 650 — quarries, 
540 
Auchterless, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 285 
Auchtermaimie house, ix. Fife, 379 
Auchtermuchtv, parish of, ix. Fife, 781 

—town, ib, 783 
Auchtertool, parish of, ix. Fife, 249— vil- 
lage, 257 
Auchtertyre, village of, xi. Forfar, 559 
Auchter-uther-struther, ruins of, ix- Fife, 

524 
Auchtrematane bum, iv. Wigton, 135 
Augmund's How, xv. Orkney, 136 
Augustus, Fort, xiv. Inverness, 57, 62 
Auld bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 266 
Auld water of Clouden, iv. Dumfries, 

338 
Auldbar castle, xi. Forfar, 627— stone at, 

6.32 
Auldbar, remains at, vii. Renfrew, 190 
Auldcathie, annexed parish of, iL Linlith- 
gow, 90 
Auldearn, parish of, xiii. Nairn, 6— bum, 



7— village, 13, 15— battle, 9 — zir. 
Ross, 192 
Aulderg bum, xiiL Elgin, 196 
Anldgrande bum, xiv. Roas, 322, 324 
Auld Grey caims, the, iv. Wigton, 86 
Auldbame bay, ii< Haddingten, 31 9-^ 

house, 31 
Auldhill, remains on, v. Ayt, 257 
Auldhouse bum, vii. Renfrew, 34 — bkach- 

field, 40 
Auld kilns of Kirkmaiden, iv. Wigton, 207 
Auld kirk, a Dniidical circle, xii. Aber- 
deen 499 
Auld kirk of North Berwick, u. Had- 
dington, 328 
Auld kirk of Tough, xii. Aberdeen, 618 
Auld Machan quarry, vi. Lanark, 726 
Auldmiiir limeworks, v. Ayr, 232 
Auldna colliery, v. Ayr, 614 
Auldnachoira biim, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Auldnacuish bum, xiii Elgin, 196 
Auld town of CaraoBsie, xiii. Banff, 84 
Auld town of Loudoun, v. Ayr, 851 
Auld Wick tower, ruins o^ zv< Caitiinea, 

118,139 
Auld wives" lifts, stones called, viiL Stir- 
ling, 171 
Aul' man o* Wick, the, xv. Caithnen, 118 
Aulmore hill, xiii. Banff, 214 
Aultanfhiler bum, xiv. Inveraeas, 377 
Aultdinny bum, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 
Ault Oheallaidh bum, xiii. Elgin, 62 
Aultgraad water and falls, xiv. Rosa, 314 
Aultguish bum, xiv. Invemess, 39 
Aultkollie ravine, xv. Sutherland, 192 
Aultnacaorach bum, xiv. Ross, 315 
Aultnaharve inn, xv. Sutherland, 68 
Aultrey bum, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 
Aultsigh bum, xiv. Invemess, 38 — battle, 

46 
Aumubie, chapel at, x. Perth, 260 
Auquhirie, district of, xi. Kincardine, 214 

— house, 219 
Ausdale clif&, xv. Caithness, 87 
Auskerry isle, xv. Orkney, 1 57 
Auston park, vi. Lanark, 66 
Aven, see Avon 

Aven Iligh water, xv. Sutherland, 134 
Avich water and loch, vii. Aigyle, ^r^ 
Aviemore, remains at, xiii. Elgin, 1 32 
Avoch, parish of, xiv. Ross, 381 — village, 
15, 381, 382— bum, 383, 387— house, 
384, 390— castle, 390— oyster bed, In- 
vemess, 405 
Avochy castle, xii. Aberdeen, 1033 
Avon river, xiii Banff, 123, 124, 125, 297 

—loch, 297 
Avon river, v. Ayr, 179 — vi. Lanark, 250, 
254, 295, 301, 302,470, 719, 721, 944 
Avon water, ii. Linlithgow, 35, 36, 121, 
170— viii. Stirling, 191, 205, 206, 275 
Avondale, parish of, vi. Lanark, 301 
Avondow water, viii. Stirling, 396 
Avonholm, remains at, vi. Lanark, 295 — 
house, 296 



GENERAL INDEX. 



XI 



Avon LuBsa water, vii. Argyle, 536 
Avonton house, ii. Linlithgow, 174 
Awe water, vii. Argyle, 89, 477 — loch, 85, 

372 
Ayr, parish and town of, v. Ayr, 1 — see 

also Newton and St Quivox— water, 6, 

11, 51, 118, 119, 126, 130, 149, 159, 

323, 637, 649, 743 
Ayrshire, observations on, v. Ayr, 856 — 

agricultural society, 48, 64 
Ay ton, parish of, ii. Berwick, 1 30 — castle 

and property, 135 — house, &c. 131, 

132— village, 131, 139, 142 
Ba hill, xii. Aberdeen, 302 
Ba loch and water, vii. Argyle, 281 
Balsum, see Bannockbiun 
Baad^s house, i. Edinburgh, 306 
Baads of Cullen, battle of, xiiL Banff, 318 
Baberton house, i. Edinburgh, 546 
Babylon, Owenite institution o^ vi. La- 
nark, 780, 783 
Bach isle, vii. Argyle, 340 
Bachnagaim fells, xi. Forfar, 437 
Backaskail bay, xv. Orkney, 87 
Backboath chapel, xi. Forfar, 357 
Back bum, ix. Fife, 823 
Back burn of Romach, xiii. Elgin, 240 
Backies, remains at, xv. Sutherland, 34 
Backless, market at, xv. Caithness, 59 
Backmuir of Oilston, village of, ix. Fife, 

442 
Back Thomley muir, vii. Renfrew, 144 
Backwood water, i. Edinbuigh, 362 
Badan loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Badbea, cliffii at, xv. Caithness, 87 
Badcall loch, xv. Sutherland, 120 — 

church, 132 
Badds clayfield, vi. Lanark, 402 
Badenoch, district of, xiii. Elgin, 124— i> 

xiv. Inverness, 66,, 82 
Badenagill, the, iii. Peebles, 162 
Badenyon house, xii. Aberdeen, 437 
Badlieu biun, &c. iii. Peebles, 59, 62 
Badnabay, remains at, xv. Sutherland, 

127 
Bagbie woods, vi Lanark, 81l«-houae, 

817 
Baggage knowe, the, viii. Stirling, 148 
Baidland hill, v. Ayr, 211— coal at, 213 
Baikic moss, xi. Forfar, 673— castle, 680 

—house, 681 
Bailechelish hills, vii. Argyle, 225 
Bailephuill mission, xiv. Ross, 428 
Bailford obelisk, iv. Dumfries, 502 
Bailiestone, remains at, vi. Lanark, 651— 

village, 652 
Bailliefearie, the, xiv. Inverness, 13 
Bailwanich, ruins at, xiv. Inverness, 188 
Bainac, Ben, xiii. Banff, 298 
Bainsford sawmills, viii. Stirling, 19 — vil- 
lage, 21,23 
Baimsdale castle, xi. Forfar, 603 
Balachulish ferry, xiv. Inverness, 118 — 

quarry, 123 
Balado plantations, ix. Kinross, 16 



Balagan, property and house, iv. Dum- 

flies, 326 
Balas house, ix. Fife, 8 
Balbairdie loch, ii. Linlithgow, 150 — lime- 
works, 154 — house, 156 
Balbec tower, ix. Fife, 414 
Balbeggie village, x. Perth, 933 
Balbegno house, xi. Kincardine, 26 — 

castle, 116 
Balbeuchy property, xi. Forfar, 654 
Balbinnie house, xi. Forfar, 627 
Balbimie collieries, ix. Fife, 659 — house, 

668— mills, 673 
Balbithan, tree at, xii. Aberdeen, 743 
Balblair distillery, xiv. Ross, 452 
Balbrogie village, x. Perth, 1147 
Balbunnock village, x. Perth, 410, 418 
Balcaithly, remains at, ix. Fife, 366 
Balcarras house, ix. Fife, 326 — collieries, 

321, 322— Craig, 319, 321— den, 321, 

324 
Balcarry house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 356, 

365— port, 361 
Balcastle, ruins at, viii. Stirling, 152, 274 

—village, 278— collieries, 144, 145 
Balchristie quarry, ii. Berwick, 202 
Balchr}'8tie, church at, ix. Fife, 125 
Balchumie, castle, x. Perth, 222 
Balcomie castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 947 
Balcony property, xiv. Ross, 320, 325 
Balcraig castle, xi. Forfar, 559 
Balcruivie pastle, ix. Fife, 438 
Baldardie, rocks at, xi. For&r, 598 
Baldermonock's ward, the, vi. Lanark, 

406 
Baldemock, parish of, viii Stirling, 169 
Baldemock alum works, vi. Lanark, 166 
Baldoon castle, &c. iv. Wigton, 12, 16 
Baldowrie, remains at, xi. Forfer, 643— 

house, 644 
Baldovie property, xL Forfiu*, 21 — ^hill, 

611,616 
Baldutho craig, ix. Fife, 914 — limestone 

at, 916 
Baldred'a well, ii. Haddington, 333 
Baldridge burn, xi. Fife, 829— colliery, 

831 
Baledgamo bum, x. Perth, 827— hill, 826 

—village, 832, 836 
Balerao, chapel at, i. Edinbuigh, 555 — 

sandstone at, 544 
Balevil house, xiv. Ross, 372 
Balfour or Bal Orr castle, ix. Fife, 665 
Balfour castle, xi. Forfar, 615— hill, 611 
Balfrishel village, xiv. Inverness, 57 
Balfron, parish of, viii. Stirling, 288 — 

village, 289, 295, 297— mills, 293 
Balgaies loch, xL Forfar, 142 
Balgair market, viii. Stirling, 272 — pro- 
perty, 296 
Balgarrock house, xi. Forfer, 629 
Balgartno, remains at, xi. For&r, 581 
Balgarvie house, ix. Fife, 41 
Balgavies loch, xi. Forfar, 240, 597, 627 

—house, 627, 628 
4 



xu 



aEKERJLL INDEX* 



Balgay hill, zi. For&r, 5 —remains at, 17 

— property, 568 
Balgie water, xiv. Roes, 1 00 
Balglas corrie, viiL Stirling, 61 
Balgonar house, ix. Fife, 799 
Bal^ne, rocks at, ii Haddington, 317 — 

house, 333— quarry, 338 
Balgonie castle, ix. Fife, 666— collieries, 

661— nulls, &c. 674,676 
Balgove of Hoasie, the, xi. Forfiff, 251 
Balgown bay, iv. Wigton, 201 
Balgownie house, xil Aberdeen, 1076 
Balgray, coal at, t. Ayr, 573 
Balgray, plantations at, iv. Dumfiies, 74, 

87 
Balgray, remains at, vi Lanark, 671 
Balgr^gan limeworks, v. Ayr, 504 
Balgreggan house, iv. Wigton, 164 
Balhall property, xi. For&r, 519 
Balhaiie house, x. Perth, 1119 
Balhepbum, improvements at, x. Perth, 

365 
Balhousie, remains at, ix. Fife, 439 
Balhousie, Old, village o^x. Perth, 142 
Baligil bum, xv. Suuerland, 68 
Balimacaan house, xiii. Banff, 322 
Balinshoe house, xi. ForfEU*, 178 
Balintore, village of, xiv. Ross, 361 
Balintraw harbour, xiv. Ross, 309 
Ballagan spout, viii. Stirling, 73, 74 
Ballairdie castle, x. Perth, 221 
Ballandarg house, xi. For&r, 178 — bum, 

338 
Ballantrae, parish of, v. Ayr, 415 — town, 

415, 416 
Ballantyne house, xi. Forfar, 561 
Ballat bog, viii. Stirling, 99 
Ballater house, xii. Aberdeen, 778 — vil- 
lage, 779, 781 
Balleave mill, ix. Kinross, 14 
Ballenbreich castle, ix. Fife, 599, 601 
Ballenbreich chapel, viii. Stirling, 210 
BallencriefT house, ii. Haddington, 252 — 

hospital, 253 
Ballendean hill, x. Perth, 826 — house, 

833— viUage, 836 
Ballendrick house, x. Perth, 807 
Ballengeich road, viii. Stirling, 403, 417 
Ballewan mineral spring, viii. Stirling, 73 
Balliasta kirk, xv. Shetland, 40 — quarry, 

45 
Ballikinrain burn, &c viii. Stirling, 62 — 

house, &c. 63, 65, 289 
Ballimore house, viL Argyle, 105, 365 
BallincriefT limeworks, ii. Linlithgow, 153 
Ballindalloch house, xiii. Banff, 129, 133 

^-castle, 134 — limeworks, 127 
Ballindalloch house, viiL Stirling, 292— 

factories, 293, — vi. Lanark, 148 
Ballingr}', parish of, ix. Fife, 446 
Ballintomb bum, xiii. Elgin, 6'?, 66 — re- 
mains at, 68 
Ballo hill, X. Perth, 406 
lialloch hills, xiii. Banff, 214 



Balloch bog, viii. Dunbarton, 142— castle, 

223 
Balloch, rocks at, xL Forfiur, 160— moa, 

163 
Balloch castle, x. Perth, 468^1och, 814 
Balloch hiUs, xv. Sutherhmd, 135 
Ballochleam loch, viii. Stirling, 265 — 

battle, 52 
Ballochmorie house, v. Ayr, 529 
Ballochmyle, improvements at, â–¼. Ayr, 

163 
Ballochneill, v. Ayr, 781 
Ballochnie collieries, vi. Lanark, 243 — 

railway, 246, 664 
Ballogie house, xil Aberdeen, 793 
Ballomill bum, ix. Fife, 559 
Ballownie, remains at, xi Forfiff, 665 
Ballumbie castle and house, xL For&r, 

593 
Ballykellet house, &c. v. Bute, 73, 75 
Ballyshear house, vii Argyle, 430 
Balmacaan house, xiv. Inverness, 43 
Balmachree farm, xiv. Invemeas, 378— 

moathill, 393 
Balmaclellan, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

98— village, 104 
Balmadies house, &c. xi. Forfiu*, 607, 608 
Balmaduthy, see Belmaduthy 
Balmae house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 25 
Balmaghie, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

178— house, 183 
Balmaha pass, viii. Dunbarton, 159 
Balmaha chemical works, viii Stirling, 96 
Balmakelly bum, xi Kincardine, 299, 304 
Balmakewan quarry, xi. Kincardine, 299 

—house, 302 
Balmalcolm village, ix. Fife, 106, 109 
Balmaleedie bum, xi. Kincardine, 299 
Balmangan tower, iv. Kirkcudbright,- 54 
Balmanno house, xi. Kincardine, 299 — 

quarry, 302 
Balmanno castle, x. Perth, 864 
Balmaodui church, vii Argyle, 498 
Balmartin, obelisk at, xiv. Invemess, 169 
Balmashanar hill, xi. Forfar, 692 
Balmblair cairns, x. Perth, 172 
Balmerino, parish of, ix. Fife, 577 — vil- 
lage, 578— abbey, ib. 583 
Balmoran house, xii Aberdeen, 650 
Balmore haughs, viii. Stirhng, 170 
Balmossie chapel, xi Forfar, 541 
Balmullo village, ix. Fife, 224,227 
Balmuto house, ix. Fife, 801 
Balnaboth house, &c. xi. Forfiir, 172, 178 
Balnabriech property, xi Forfar, 519, 528 
Balnabniach village, xiv. Ross, 26 
Balnacraig house, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 

1052, 1056, 1087 
Balnacula, remains at, v. Bute, 54 
Balnagard village, x. Perth, 1010 
Balnagask property, xi. Kincardine, 205 
Ralnagown, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 

471 
Balnagown water, xiv. Ross, 264, 302 — 



OBNESAL IHDEZ. 



carile, 305— fbr«t, 403, 404— hotue, 
4l2-~prDperty, 445 
Bklnakettle, minenb mt, iL Kiacardine, 
36, 113 

Sali<uki<:l Imv, XT. Sutlierluid, 8fi, 87— 

house, S4 
BalDBkvIe taMa. iv. Sulherland, 191 
Balnamoon hou«e, y,l Forfiir, 6S7 
Balnapaling Tillage, ut. Rom, 26 
Balnotbrwb, nkuutious at, iL For&r, 

614 
Balnelkn, (brd and hrry, mi. Banff, 139 
Balnilio &rm, iL Forlar, 1S3 
BalniMk chapel, viu. Dunbiirlon, 75 
Balocb hill, t. Ayr, 366 
BaloDC caatle, xir. Koaa, 461 
Baiquhapplo thapel, X. I'erth, 1 106 
Balquhutstwi, impcovvments al, Tiii. Stir- 
ling, 278 
Balquhsin outle, ui. Al^ntwn, 563, 562 

— bouM, £73 
Ba]quhi<Jder, poriih of, x. Pi^rth, 344 
BalquhiDilachy hill, xii. Aberdeen, 983 
Balquhollv caMle, ftc. xii. Aberdeen, 991, 

994 
.BaliBoald harbDur, xiv. InvemeM, 161 
Balrudder}', ibasjl remainii at, xi. Fivftr, 

589, 571, S76— house, 578 
BalrjDiODtli hill,ix. Fift, 4aO 
BalsHggart KiH-iiiill, V Avr, .iOO 
BaUhagrj, foMil remaini it, it Lanark, 

Balihandie loch, iL Forftr, 456 
Haliillie, remains al, ii. Fife, 116 
BalsuiHipy hnuw, ii. Fife, 749 
liBltcrtun, l]mo?t<mi.- at.iv, DiunfHea, SS5 



Batvaird cattle, x. Perth, 850 
BnlTerr uiKite. xiii. Banff, 105 
Itelveny â– . â– ' . :'.' ".mil; 364 
RiWicar ^ ,:tle. 79 

I: . iiuiihaHon, 40, 49 

I' .. Sutherland, 8 

I!..'.. â–  ^cr, is. Pife. 150 

Balwham caalle, x. Perth, 433 
Baln-hirn qiiarrj', t, Ajt, 504 
BalwyllD prop«iy, xi.'Forfai, 133 
BalTarrow curling dub, ii. fife, 646 
DaiDJThciuK.x. Perth, III!) 
Bamflat roonl.Ti. I^nnrk .146 
Banchory, property of, xi. Kincardine, 181 

—lodge, 233 
Banchory DeTcnick, pariah ol 

cardine, 170 
Bnnchorv Teman, pariah of, i 

dine. 323— Tillage, 326, 3S5 
'" ncleroche hoiue, viii. Stirhng, 244 



iL Kin- 



ji house, 
u house, i 



.. Fife, ;! 



Baneton, Tillage of; ii. Fife, 380 

Banff, pariah and town of, liii. Banff, 1 

castle, 16,31,30 
Biuirtsliiri'. olHervQii.,ns on, xiiL Banff, 



Bnnhe 



,, 33() 



Unnk, impnnenienU at, v. Ayr, 519 
BsJikend village, iv. Uiunfriea, 356 
Uankfoot village, x. Perth, 426, 442 
Bankhead, improvement* ut, v. Ayr, 803 
H.inkhL.«,J, remain. Bt. xiiL Banff, 22S 
Bankhead wood, ii Berwick, 54 
Bankhead ullnsf. xv. CaifhneM, 143,158 
Bankhead properlv, xL Forfer, 302 
Bankhead lioum-. &c. vi. I.-mnrk, 377 
Bankhead, r.'iniiira at. i. I'.rih 'i ir'i 
Bankhead, improver 



277 



ti. Stirling, 



Bankicr, campa at, viii. Stirling, 121— 

diatiUery, 130 
Banknock colheties, &c. viiL Dunbarton 

177— Stirling, 119, 120, 126 
Bank! village, iv. Dumfries, 447 
Bankton houae, ii. Haddington, 286 
Bonkton park village, ix. Fife, 106, 109 
Bannachra property, viii. Dunliarton, 155 
Bannatyne bouae, li Forlkr, 561 
B"nnal_vne village, T. Bute, lO.S, 111,113 
Bunnrakirk chapel, it. Cdithnew. 73 
Bannock water, viii. StirUng, 308, 307 
Bannockbum, batlle nf, viii. Stirhng, 316, 

403— collierie»,310, 331— bouiie, 314, 

317- THOurfHieniparish, 334— lillaiie, 

BannokKane ^tiarry, tL Lanark, 726 
Bantaakine hnuae, tiii, Stirling, iS 
Banlon, villa^ of, viii. Stirling, 142, 1S9, 

160, 164— ironatone at, 144 
Banvie locka,xiv. Invcmea, 9 
Bar hill, Tiii. Dunbarton, 170— collieriei^ 

Bara kirk, iL Iladilington, 95 — ciltage, 98 
Bomchan creek, vii. Aigile, 302 
Banwsic, remains at, x Ayr. 677 
Barliachluw water, ii. Liniitheuw, 1S4— 

colliery, 154 
Barber Tillafie, viii. Dunbarton, 126 
BartnTBv,d)-.. .i.Forfer.413 
Barbeth mom, viii Dunbarton, 183 



Barclay hill, T. Ayr, 494 
Darcleugh, remaina al, t. Ayr, fi5li 
Barctoy, fort on, it. Kirkcudbright, 216 
Baril head, xx. Shetland. 8 
IlBnlennocb burn, i». Pumfriea, 4IJ2 
Banloch water, «ii. Aberdeen, 544 
Itnrdon bum, xiil Elgin, HG 
Kiirilowic hill. viii. Stirling, 140 
Barefoot 'a field, ii. Berwielc, 326 



XIV 



QEl^ERAL INDEX. 



Barcmmao, viii. Dunbartoo, 105— quarry, 

125 
Bargally house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 134 
Baigannoch, coins found at, v. Ayr. 656 
Bugany colliery, v. Ayr, 382 — limeworks, 

ib. — plantations, 3D4 
Biurgeddie, village of, vi. Lanark, 652 
Bargrennan cluipel, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

140 
Barhead factory, vii. Renfrew, 273 
Barhill, rocks at, iv. Dumfries, 291 
Barhill, fort on, viii. Stirling, 152 
Barhill village, iv. Wigton, 78 
Barholm house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 334 
Barhullion fell, iv. Wigton, 38 
Barjarg dean, iv. Dumfries, 462 — lime- 
works, ib, 463— oak, 464 — house and 
property, 464, 466, 467— village, 470 
Barkip moss, v. Ayr, 214 
Barlae slate quarry, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

370 
Barleith colliery, v. Ayr, 606 
Barlocco house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 360 
Barmekin hill, xii. Al>erdeen, 736 — re- 
mains on, 737, 949 
Bar Michael wood, vi. Lanark, 278 
Barmore bouse, vii. Argyle, 262— fort at, 

639 
Bamair, cairns at, iv. Wigton, 178 
Bambarroch, spring at, iv. Wigton, 11— 

house, 16 
Bambougle castle, ii. Linlithgow, 95, 96 
Bamcluith gardens, vi Lanark, 255, 271 

-burn, 255 
Barnes, tumuli at, viii. Dunbarton, 22 
Bamess, coins found at, iv. Wigton, 15 
Bamgreen village, xi. Forfar, 89 
Bamhill house, x. Perth, 938 
Barnhill village, xi. Forfar, 549 
Bamhill village, vi. Lanark, 321 
Bamhiirs bed, iii. Roxburgh, 355 
Barnhowrie sandbank, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

217 
Barniken, origin of name of, ii. Berwick, 

249 
Barnkirk hill, iv. Dumfries, 517 
Bamkirk moss, iv. Wigton, 178 
Bams house, ix. Kinross, 40 
Bams house, Crail, mins of, ix. Fife^ 946 
Barns tower, iii. Peebles, 116 
Barns of Ayr, the, v. Ayr, 21, 41 
Bamsdalc castle, xi. Forfar, 603 
Bamsford bridge, vii. Renfrew, 27 
Bamshean loch, v. Ayr, 493 
Bamslce house, ix. Fife, 665 
Barnsmuir house, ix. Fife, 971 
Bam tal loch castle, iv. Dumfries, 420 
Barn ton house, i. Edinburgh, 595 
Barn Weill, suppressed parish of, v. Avr, 

764— hill, 21, 765— house, 765 
Ramyards village, ix. Fife, 328 
Barochan house, &.c. vii. Renfrew, 47, 48, 

60 
Barone hill, v. Bute, 96 
Baron's cleugh, vi. lianark, 255 



Barony, sec Glasgow 

Barplacaig, fort of^ xiv. Inverness, 266 

Barr glen, vii Argyle, 377 

Barr, parish of, v. Ayr, 407 — callage, 409 

Barr hill, iv. Dumfries, 204, 207 

Barr hill, remains at, viii. Dunbarton, 141, 

188 
Barr hill, vii. Renfrew, 355 — colliery, &c. 

359— loch, 75— castle, 76, 91— house, 

76 — property, 92 
Barra hill, xii. Aberdeen, 621, 622 
Barra quarry, ii. Haddington, 155 
Barra head, xiv. Inverness, 159, 199 
Barrachine village, vi. Lanark, 652 
Barras house, &.c. xi. Kincardine, 223, 

310 
Barrasgate, camp at, iv. Dumfries, 266 
Barraston, minerals at, viii. Stirling, 170 
Banay, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 198— 

island, 199— house, 208 
Barrel of butter isle, xv. Orkney, 16 
Barrhead village, vii. Renfrew, 330, 339 
Barrie, parish of,.xi. Forfer, 659 
Barrisdale house, xiv. Inverness, 1 35 
Barrochan, see Barochan 
Barrock hill, caim on, xv. Caithness, 39 
Barrogill castle, xv. Caithness, 26 
Barrowfield, battle at, vii. Renfrew, 504 
Barrschol, district of, xv. Sutherland, 55 
Barry hill, xL Forfar, 297, 425 
Barry hill, remains on, x. Perth, 111 I, 

1117 
Barschastaillain fort, vii. Argyle, 96 
Barshaw house, vii. Renfrew, 198 
Barshell, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 44 
Barskimming house, &c. v. Avr, 159, 165, 

640, 642 
Bartaraville village, xiv. Ross, 209 
Barthol chapeU Ac. xii. Aberdeen, 675 
Bartle hill, ii. Berwick, 51 
Barvas, pariah of, xiv. Ross, 141 — Ijay, 

142 
Barvick water, x. Perth, 267, 727 
Barwhinnock house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 40 
Barwood, the, viii. Stirling, 139 — springs 

at, 147 
Bas Alpine, tradition regarding, xi. For- 
far, 16 
Bashaw, spring at, vi. Lanark, 566 — lime- 
works, 569 
Basket ironworks, vi. Lanark, 315, 317 
Bass, the, xii. Aberdeen, 681 
Bass rock, the, il Haddington, 29, 318, 

320, 330 
Basscndcan, property of, ii. Berwick, 69, 

81 — chapel, 71 — house, 74 
Basta voe, xv. Shetland, 23, 32, 83 
Bastleridge property, ii. Berwick, 136 
Bath burn, v. Ayr, 692 
Batha loch, x. Perth, 541 
Bathemock tower, viii. Stirling, 171 
Bathgate, parish of, ii. Linlithgow, 149 — 

town, 161 — burn, 155 
Battery point, il Linlithgow, 1 — piers, 11 
Battles bog, ii. Berwick, 254 



OEHBKAL IHDBX. 



Baltle bum, li. Forfer, 3fl9 
Battle cnirn, the, xl Forfer, 399 
Bnttio ilnim wood, li. Forfiir, 399 
RiUtleilfkn, campat, iL Forfai,29",694 
BatUeAiiild In Ccimond, the, liL Abei- 
â–  deeti, 709 

Battle hill oT Annan, iv. DumrrieB. 519 
Battle hill nf Drumblnde. xii. Aberdeen, 

302— of Huntly, 1037 
Battle knove* of Wbitwunc, iL Derwick. 

171 
Battle lav of Italmerinn, ix. Fife, 587 
RatUe muir iiF Lanjtton. ii. JlerwiL-k, 238 
Battle well of Kinnell, xi. Fortkr. 399 
Buttock mount, xi. FoHhr, 191, 623— 

Kincardine, "'-l, '2H1. 2;V2 
Ballnck qunm-, viii. Stirling, 192 
Bamrrich coi'llf, viii. Uvnbarton, 21S 
Bauden hill, ix. Fife, 105. 106 
fluids moor, xtii. Banff, 2JI), 254 
fisTelaw bum, i. Edinburgh, fiU 
Bay loch, xiv. InTCmiH, 323, 326 
Bay of Martvra, the, tii, Argyle, 337 
Bayanne Gdieriea, xv. Shetland, 30- 
Bavble bay. xii. Rjw, 117 
Bayfield hoiue, liT. Ron, 30 
Bayhoid, xiv, Ron, 1 1 II— village, 1 3S 
Ba^hinKra bat. ot. InTemen, 200 
Bcu loch, IV. Orkney, Hfi 
Beach atone, the, xit. Invemes, 393 
BeiKon hill of Brenay it. Zetland, 7 
Bcnluch poB^ xiv. Ron, 171 
B«ilach-an-duine pBuB, X, Perlh, 356 
Bealochintie bay, viL Arnle. 377 
Beannacha loch, xv. Sulberlond, iS 
Beanoch loch, it. SulheiUnd, 317 
Bean^n houge, ii. Haddington, 23 
B«BT hqpe, iiL Roxburgh. I9l 
Bear> heail. the, liii. Elgin, 44 
BearsiiJe, Human road nt, liii. Stirling, 322 
Beaatockrigit. cairn at, iv. Duiafrica, 157 
Beath, parish of, is. Fife, t74_hill, ib. 

S21, 842, SCO 
Beatman'i acre, i. Eitinburgh. S39 
Beatlock inn. It. Dumfries, 131 
BMufbrt caallet xiv. Iniemen, 496 
Brauljfrith.iiv. Inveincws 1,2,465,487 

— Ilo«, 64. 39S 
Beauty loch, xiv. Invemen, 2, B 
Beauly priory, lir. Invemen, li, 365 
Beanly river, xiv. Inemew. 10. SCI, 362, 

363, 364, 459, 484, 487— Hon, 400 
Beauly rillage, lii. Invemen, 3CI, 366, 

369 
Beaumont, lee Tkiinnont 
Beckton chnpel. ttc, iv. LIunnfrieB, 452 
Dedcow mon, viii. Dunburtiin. 1U3 
Bedehouw of Jfinciiriline, lii. Aberdeen, 

833 
Bedehouse of Ralhven, xiii. Banff, 267 
Dedlavhouie, viiL Uunbortun, 173— lime- 

worVa. 179 
Bcdiay houie. vi. Lanark, 401,407 — lime- 

worlw, 402— well, 400 



I Bedlonnie houw^ii. Liniiihgow, SO 

Bedrule, parish ot iiL Roxburgh, 279— 
village, ib. 295— bill, 280, 281— castle, 
1 284 

1 Bee hohn, the, iv, Dumfries 483 
I Bee loeb, liv. Inremem, IBS 

Beechwood house, L Eilinburgh, 215 
I Beechwood hou»e,KettJn«,iLForfer,641 
I Beechwood house, St Vigeans, xi. Forfiir, 
' 498 

Beg loch, xir. Invemen, 298 

Beichglen.x. Perth, 581 

Beil houee, &e. ij. Hji.l.linKi'Ti, 56,57, 359 

Bcilig hill, xiv. I i,v,-n, (■,.«. M)ti 

Beinerard hill, v. .\ir, ll.i 

Btiu^vcHn l..i.-S. yW. Invtnu-^ 363 

lttinnemhiiinlofh,iiv.lniC'nL,'.n,4B4.490 

Htilh, pnrii.h,.f. r. AjT, 570— barony, 576 
-town, 591 

Beiach castle, riii. Dunbarlon, 223 

Belcot hill, iv. Dumfries, 184 

Belfield, Roman wall at, viii. Dunbarton, 



H 

\ f'CnietM, 241 



Bellahoustown coiljeriea, vi. Lanark, 672 
Bethit}', coins found at, li. Por&r, 420 
Bcllcrnig linn and rock, iv. Dumfries, 122, 

140 
BclleUuff, tumuhiB of, x. Perth, 234 
Belleiale liouse, r. Ayr, 4, 16 
Belleville house, 4ic. iiv,Invemcs«,e4,84, 

UU, 87, Hi/ 
Bellevue Uoum-, ix. File, 783 
Bell6eld houK, t. Ayr, 6t0 
BelI6eld houae, ii. Fife, 8 
BelJfield, improvementa at, xiv. Ross, 59, 

60 
Bellie, parish of, liiL Elgin, II.i 
Bellow water, v. Ayr, 326 
Beltrory bill, luL Aberdceiu lOJB 
Bell^ bank, ptoperly of. v. Avr. 3. 317 
Bell^ hill. ri. Lanark, 7BU— inllajjt', 797 
Bell's moiDB village, i. Ediiibur^th. I H4 
Bell's Khoal, Leitb, L F^linbui^li. 780 
Bell's iiuany vilUge, L IMimiiiii'h, 37S 
lleU^wd house, LEdinl.uri;li.;il7 
[Sl-IU-ooJ bouse, i. Perth, VJ)! 
Belmaduthy house, &c. xiv. Rosa, 58, 59 

61 
Belmeanach bay, xiv. — Invemen, 219 
Belmont cottage, t. Ayr, 4 
Belmonl house. L Edinburgh, 215 



XVI 



aBNB&AL IKDBX. 



Belmont castle, &c. x. Perth, 232, 233, 

235 
Belnaboth church, xiL Aberdeen, 417 
Belnagoak hill, xii. Aberdeen, 963 
Belnahua isle, yii. Aigyle, 535 
Belretiro churchyard, viii* Dunbarton, 222 
Belndding, coal at, iv. Dumfries, 219 
Belrinnes hill, xiii. Banff, 145 
Belses quarry, iii. Roxburgh, 62 
Belston property, &c. vi Lanark, 579, 581 
Belston bridge, coal at, yi. Lanark, 567 
Belston place, ironstone at, vi. Lanark, 571 
Beltcraigs property, xi. Kincardine, 260 
Beltenmont bridge, iv. Dumfries, 286 
Belton bum, ii. Haddington, 71 — house, 

80 
Beltonford bum, ii Haddington, 359 
Beltongrain lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 300, 

303 
Beltrees house, vil Renfrew, 76 
Belty bum, xii. Aberdeen, 832 
Bemersyde hill and house, ii. Berwick, 26 
Benubhragidh, xv. Sutherland, 24 
Benabhuiridh, vii. Argyle, 83 
Benachain point, xiv. Inverness, 240 
Benachally mount and loch, x. Perth, 

1024, 1025 
Benachie, xii Aberdeen, 422, 486, 562, 

635, 693, 94d 
Benachielt, xv. Caithness, 84 
Benagen, xiii Banff, 356, 357 — Elgin, 

228 
BenagheiL, battle of, xv. Caithness, 89 
Benaich, viii. Dunbarton, 156 
Benalder, xiv. Inverness, 418, 505 
Benan, x. Perth, 345 
Benanlocham, vii. Argyle, 702 
Benantuirk, vii. ArgyJe, 377, 437 
Ben Armin, xv. Sutherland, 214 
Benartie, ix. Kinross, 30, 39, 44, 53, 70 
Benascriodhain, vii. Argyle, 227 
Benavon, xii. Aberdeen, 776 
Benaw, xii. Aberdeen, 436 
Ben Bainac, xiii. Banff, 298 
Benbecula isle, xiv. Invemess, 159, 182, 

188 
Benbeoch, v. Ayr, 309, 313 
Ben Bhraggie, xv. Sutherland, 214 
Benblath, xiv. Inverness, 300 
Benbord, xiii. Banff, 298 
Benbraniachan, v. Ayr, 309 
Benbreck caatle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 371 
Benbui, vii Argyle, 2 — viii. Dunbarton, 

158 
Benbuie quarry, iv. Dumfries, 333 
Benchait, x. Perth, 559 
Bcnchaorach, vii Argyle, 471 
BenchapuU, vii. Argyle, 62 
Benchennin, xi. Forfar, 703 
Bench ill, property, x. Perth, 181 
Benchochan, x. Perth, 1150 
Benchoinzie, x. Perth, 725 
Benchreachin, x. Perth, 529 
Benchrianeg, xiv. Ross, 158 
Benchroin, x. Perth, 345 



Bencleuch or Bencloich, viii Clackman- 
nan, 67, 77— Stirling, 176, 341~Imi- 
rony, 245 

Benclibric, xv. Sutherland, 48, 58, 66, 
149, 214 

Bencochail, vii. Argyle, 470 

Bencorafuar, viii Dunbarton, 156 

Bencoinachantian, viii Dunbarton, 156 

Bencruachan, vii. Aigyle, 83, 470 

Bendearg, xiv. Ross, 74, 75— xv. Suther- 
land, 83 

Bendeirg, x. Perth, 559 

Bendhu, viii. Dunbarton, 156 

Bendochy, pariah of, x. Perth, 1 176 

Bendonich, vii Argyle, 702 

Bendowrain, vii Argyle, 83 

Beneaddan, vii. Argyle^ 165 

Beneagen, see Benagen 

Benecarigen, v. Bute, 64 

Beneich, viii Dunbarton, 231 

Benemhian loch, xiv. Inverness, 484, 490 

Benerard, v. Ayr, 415 

Benfhadd, xiv. Ross, 182 

Benfiectan, xv. Caithness, 17 

Bengaillin, vii Argyle, 454 

Bengaim, iv. Kirkcudbright, 140, 355 

Bengali village, &c. iv. Dumfries, 453 

Bengharbhlagaln, x. Perth, 529 

Benghlo, x. Perth, 559 

Benghulbhuinn, x. Perth, 786 

Bengreim, xv. Orkney, 1 3 

Bengriam-more and beg, xv. Sutherland, 
135, 137,213 

Benguallan, viii Stirling, 100 

Benhar collieries, vi. Limark, 626 — ii. Lin- 
lithgow, 168 

Benhee, xv. Sutherland, 214 

Benhill of Rathven, xiii. Banff, 246 

Benhemish, vii Argyle, 196 

Benholme, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 51 
— house, 27 — tower, 56 

Benhonzie hill, x. Perth, 578 

Benhope, xv. Sutherland, 83, 165, 170 

Ben Horn, xv. Sutherland, 24, 26, 149, 
150 

Benhutig, xv. Sutherland, 165, 170 
Benichonie, x. Perth, 491 
Benie water, xiii. Elgin, 1 38 
Benketlan, vii Argyle, 471 
Benklybrich, see Benclybric 
Benlaoghall, XV. Sutherland, 165, 171 
Benlaordh, vii. Argyle, 84 
Benlawers, x. Perth, 453, 704 
Benledi, x. Perth, 349 
Benleod, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Benleothaid, xv. Sutherland, 1 19 
Benlester quarry, v. Bute, 9 
Ben Leven, district of, viii. Stirling, 100 
Benliga, iii. Peebles, 121 
Benligh, xiv. Invemess, 218 
Benlomond, viii. Stirling, 90, 156, 158 
Bcnlubhain, vii Ai^le, 702 
Benlui, viii. Stu-ling, 90 
Benlundie, xv. Sutherland, 24 
BenlyoU, xv. Sutherland, 165 



GENERAL INDEX. 



XVU 



Benmacdui, xii. Aberdeen, 647 — > xiii. 

Banff, 125, 296, 298~EJgin, 138 
Benmacmonaidh, viL Argyle, 83 
Benmaigh, tu. Aigyle, 278 
Benmheadhonaig, x. Perth, 559 
Beninore, vii Argyle, 277, 298, 570— 

house, 610 
Benmore, x. Perth, 1077 
Benmore, xiv. Hobs, 158, 182 
Benmore, xv. Sutherland, 105, 214 
Bennabad, xv. Orkney, 13 
Bennabuird, xji. Aberdeen, 647 
Bennahua, viL Arg)'le, 165 
Bennamaur, xiii. Banff, 1^ 
Bennamuickduidh, see Benmacdui 
Bennan, iv. Kirkcudbright, 108 — v. Ayr, 

334, 394 
Bennanaighean, viL Argyle, 471 
Bennarty, ix. Fife, 195 
Benneaw, xii. Aberdeen, 436 
Bennetsfield houue, &c. xiv. Ron, 382, 390 
Bennetston village, viii Stirling, 196, 198 
Ben Nevis, xiv. Inverness, 1 17, 11 9« 503 

— distillery, 511 
Bennewe, xii Aberdeen, 526 
Bennie burn, xi. Kincardine, 325 
Bemochie, xii. Aberdeen, 422, 486,* 562 

635, 693, 943 
Benormin, xv. Sutherland, 135, 149, 150 
Benrinnes, xiii Banff, 103, 111, 113, 124 
Benruaidh, xv. Orkney, 13 
Benshalgs loch, xiii. Elgin, 62 
Benshea^gamich, x. Perth, 529 
Benshith, x v. Sutherland, 119 
Benshurery, xv, Orkney, 1 3 
Bensmorale, xv. Sutherland, 214 
Benspennie, xv. Sutherland, 3 
Benspionnaidh, xv. Sutherland, 83 
Benstac, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Benstarive, \iL Argyle, 470 
Benston limeworks, v. Ayr, 477, 51 1, 512 
Benstroim, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Bentarvie, xv. Sutherland, 2 
Bentealluidh, viL Argyle, 277 
Bents bum, xii. Aberdeen, 492 
Bents house, L Edinburgh, 306 
Benuaish, xiv. Ross, 244 
Benuary, xv. Sutherland, 138, 189 
Benudlamain, x. Perth, 529 
Benulay, xiv. Ross, 171 
Benuua, vii. Argyle, 702 
Benushiniah, xiv. Ross, 158 
Benvaichard, xiv. Ross, 263 
Ben valla, iii. Peebles, 121 
Benvan, vii. Argyle, 548 
Benvan loch, xiv. Inverness, 363 
Benvarian, v. Bute, 43 
Benveallich, xv. Sutherland, 135, 189 
Benveedan, vii. Argyle, 471 
Ben venue, x. Perth, 1 150 
Ben vie, xi. For&r, 460— annexed parish 

of, 568— spring, 569 
Benvigory, vii. Argyle, 659 
Benvoirlich, viii. Dunbarton, 94, 96, x. 

Perth, 578 

VOL. XV. 



Benvrackie, x. Perth, 688 

Benvraick, viii. Stirling, 100 

Benvui, xiv. Inverness, 145 

Benwhat, v. Ayr, 309 

Benwyvis, xiv. Ross, 211, 212, 244, 313 

Beoch castle, iv. Wigton, 232 — remains 

at, v. Ayr, 365 
BeoUry hoiise, xiv. Inverness, 135 
Beoraig loch, vii Argyle, 124, 126 
Berbeth glen, v. Ayr, 335 — ^house, &c. 

275, 315, 336, 338 
Berfield, rocks at, xv. Shetland, 103 
Beigisherard, district of, xv. Orkney, 148 
Berkhall bouse, xii. Aberdeen, 778 
Bemera isle, xiv. Ross, 155, Inverness, 
155, 199, 200, 201— head, 199, 200— 
lighthouse, 199, 208— quarry, 203 
Bemory, caves at, xv. Orkney, 14 
Berry head, xv. Orkney, 71 
Berry hill, x. Perth, 424— church, 433 
Berry bridge house, xl Kincardine, 253 
Berrybush moss, iii. Selkirk, 38 
Berriedale castle, xv. Caithness, 91— 
church, 107— fisheries, 104— head, 85 
—water and ^ey, 84, 86, 88 
Berryhill limeworks, viii. Stirling, 143 — 

property, 155 
Berry land quarry, ix. Fife, 841 
Berryleys farm, xiii Banff, 217 
Berrymuirhcad quarry, xi. For&r, 692 
Bertram Shotts, parish of, vi. Lanark, 624 
Bervie, parish of, xl Kincardine, I — ^brow 
or hill, 2, 5, 310— water, 1, 2, 28, 129, 
153,154, 165,166 ^• 

Bethelnie, ancient parish of, xii Aberdeen, 
474— hiU, 316, 475— burial ground, 
478 
Betteral well, xii Aberdeen, 1029 
BettyhiU fidr, xv. Sutherland, 79 
Beum a chaidleamh cave, xiii. Elgin, 125 
Bhannerain fort, xiv. Inverness, 266 
Bhealich loch, xiv. Ross, 172 
Bhormskittaig point, xiv. Inverness, 24t 
Bhraggie hill, xv. Sutherland, 21 4 
Bhragidli hill, xv. Sutherland, 24 
Bhraoin loch, xiv. Ross, 72 
Bhrodichan loch, xii Aberdeen, 648 
Bhruach loch, xiii. Elgin, 125 
Bible stone of Bimie, xiii. Elgin, 86 
Bield inn, iii Peebles, 62 
Bieldside house, xii Aberdeen, 106, 108 
Big Cumbrae isle, v. Bute, 69 
Big harbour, Portree, xiv. Inverness, 21 f 
Big loch, Lochbroom, xiv. Ross, 74 
Bigga isle, xv. Shetland, 82 
Biggar, parish o^ vi. Lanark, 354 — bat- 
tle, 358 — camps at, 362 — moss, 358— 
property, 359— village, 355, 356— wa- 
ter, 355, iii. Peebles, 79, 125 
Biggarpark house, vi. Lanark, 364 
Biggarshields, improvements at, vi. Lar 

nark, 372 
B^house, conventicle at, il Berwick, 265 

— house, 270— chapel, 276 
Bighouse bay, xv. Caithness 14 

c 



XVIU 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Bigla's chair, xiiu Elgin, 1 32 
Bigrock hill, xiv. Roas, 74 
Bigstone of Morangie, xIt. Roes, 284 
Bigswell, tumuli at, xv. Orkney, 68 
Bilho quarry, xii. Aberdeen, 705 
Bilbfiter bum, xv. Caithneas, 123— house, 

142 
Bilsdean \illage, ii. Haddington, 356 
Billyneat head, ix. Fife, 256 
Bimar rock, &c. ix. Fife, 231, 828 
Bin hill of Bo>'ndie, xiiL Banff, 220 
Bin hill of Burntisland, ix. Fife, 220 
Bin hill of Cleish, ix. Kinross, 44 
Bin hill of Cullen, xiii. Banff, 314, 315 
Bin hill of Kinfauns, x. Perth, 1206 
Bin hill of Kathven, xiii. Banff, 246 
Bindhill, improvements at, xiv. Ross, 465 
Binean hill, x. Perth, 345 
Binend loch, Tii. Renfrew, 385 
Binghill house, xii Aberdeen, 106, 108 
Binks house, ii. Linlithgow, 3 
Binliga hill, iii. Peebles, 121 
Binn, see Bin 

Binnan hill, vii Renfrew, 406 
Binnaness voe, xv. Shetland, 69 
Binnicaragan chapel, v. Bute, 54 
Binning wood, ii. Haddington, 35, 36 
Binns hill, ii. Linlithgow, 1 8 — house, 26 
Binny quarry, ii. Linlithgow, 1 79 
Binnycraig hill, ii; Linlithgow, 170 
Biaram^ cross, iii. Selkirk, 4C 
Binsneas head, xiii. Elgin, 215 
Birch6eld house, xiii. Elgin, 231 
Birdajtone, remains at, viii. Stirling, 243 
Biignam chapel, ii. Ber>vick, 50^ mineral 

spring, 52 — vilhige, 54 
Birkcleugh water, vi. Lanark, 503 
Birkeii bush, the, xi. Forfiir, 294 
Birkennhaw colliery, vi. Lanark, 723 
Birkenside i)roperty, ii. Berwick, 351 — 

camp, 353 
Birkfield limeworks, &c. vi. Lanark, 569, 

571 
Birkhill house, ix. Fife, 578, 588 
Birkhill pass, iv. Dumfries, 1 02 
Birkhill village, xi. Forftir, 586 
Birkhillside house, ii. Berwick, 354 
Birkle hilLs xv. Caithness, 1 38 
Bimam hill, x. Perth, 424, 1005— house, 

1008 
Bimie, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 83 
Bimic slack, xl Kincardine, 74 
Bimiehall, coal at, vi. Lanark, 81 
Bimieknowe colliery, v. Ayr, 326 
Bims water, ii. Haddington, 101, 272 
Birreir rock, xv. Shetland, 83 
Birrens, camps of, iv. Dumfries, 197, 365 
Birrenswark, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 292 
Birsay, burgh of, xv. Orkney, 151 
Birsay and Harrav, united parish of, xv. 

Orkney, 148 
Birse, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 786 — fo- 
rest, 787 — xi. Kincardine, 232 
Birslcy collieries, ii. Haddington, 2H8 
fiirtliwood house, vi. Lanark, 341 



Bishop*s bridge villagCf vi Lanark, 408 
Bishop^ bum, it. Wigton, 1, 168 
Bishop*8 church, xiiL Elgin, 85 
Bishop*s forest hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 266 
Bishop's hill, ix. Kinross, 30, 31, 53 
Bishop's house, vii. Aig>'le, 333 
Bishop's isle, xiv. Inverness, 201 
Bishop's loan, ii. Berwick, 109 
Bishop's loch, xii. Aberdeen, 1026 
Bishop's loch, xi. For&r, 75 
Bishop's loch, vL Lanark, 102, 401, 642 
Bishop's mill, vi. Lanark, 406 
Bishop's palace, Rayne, xii. Aberdeen,424 
Bishop's palace, Kinnedder,xiiL Elgin, 151 
Bishopli palace', Kirkwall, xv. Orkney, 4 
Bishop's palace, Rosemarkie, xiv. Rots, 

351 
Bishop's seat hill, vii. Aigyle, 570 
Bishopmill village, xiii. Elgin, 97, 99 
Bishopton house, vii. Renfrew, 501 
Bixter voe, xv. Shetland, 101 
Bizzyberry hill, vi Lanark, 354, 357, 362 
Blackadder, coal at, ii Berwick, 167— 

house, 171, 266, 270— property, 266 — 

spring, 266— water, 33, 40, 41, 66, 224, 

267, 366 
Blackburn house, &c v. A3rr, 9 
Blackbum village, ix. Fife, 874 
Blackburn >illage, ii. Linlithgow, 1 1 9 
Blackburn water, xiiL Elgin, 1 96 
Blackburn water, xi Kincardine, 299, 304 , 

325 
Blackburn water, vi Lanark, 499 
Blackbum water, iii. Roxburgh, 441, 442 

— remains at, 444 
Bluck)>unihaugh quarry, ii. Linlithgow, 8 1 
Black cuira, xii Aberdeen, 425 
Black cairn hill, ix. P'ife, 57 
Black Cart river, vii Renfrew, 2, 47, 82, 

115, 147,354,355,357,538 
Black castle, the, ii. Haddington, 96 
Blackcastle hill, ii. Haddington, 24 1 
Blackcustle ring:), ii Berwick, 43 
Black chapel of the moor, xii Aberdeen, 

1048 
Black Chester camp, ii Berwick, 5 
Blaekcleugh quarry, iv. Dumfries, 284 
Black cove, the,iv. Kirkcudbright, 356 
Blackcraig castle, v. Ayr, 517 
Blackcraig head, xv. Oikney, 27 
Blackcraig hill, v. Avr, 509, 510 
Blackcraig hill, ix. F'ife, 632, 633 
Blackcraig hill, x. Perth, 1096 
Blackcraig ironworks, vi. Lanark, 317 
Blackcraig quarry, viii. Stirling, 330 
Blackden, remains at, xi. Forfar, 358 
Black Devon water, viii Clackmannan, 2, 

8, 122 
Black dikes, the, ii. Berwick, 43 
Black dykes, camp at, xi Forfar, 694 
Black Kumside forest, x. Perth, 810 
Blackerhtone property, &c. ii. Berwick, 

i)X 95 
Black Esk water, iv. Dumfries, 398, 409, 

430 



GEHB&AI INDBJT. 



XIX 



Blackct house, iv. Dumfries, 365, 366 
Blacket house tower, iv. Dumfries, 280 
filacketrigg limeworks, &c iv, Dumfries, 

282, 284 
Blackford, parish of, x. Perth, 297 
Blackfriars* monastery, Ayr, v. Ayr, 36 

— Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 656 — 

Perth, X. Perth, 64 — St Andrews, ix. 

Fife, 468— Stirling, viii. Stirling, 423 

— Wigton, iv. Wigton, 3 
Blackgate, stones at, xi. Forfar, 605 
Blackball house, &c. xi. Kincardine, 233, 

324, 326 
Blackball limeworks, &c. vii. Renfrew, 

150, 153— house, 194 
Blackhaugh castle, i. Edinburgh, 418 
Blackhill of Peterhead, xiL Aberdeen, 

345, 362, 364 
Blackhill, camps on, vi. Lanark, 503 
Blackhill of Nigg, xiv. Ross, 22 
Blackhillock limeworks, xiii. Banff, 390 

— remains at, Nairn, 12 
Blackbills, property, &c. of, xiii. Elgin, 

1,4 
Blackbills, rocks at, xi. Kincardine, 246 
Blackbope scaurs, i. Edinburgh, 49, 198 

— iiL Peebles, 79 
Blnckhouse, the, v. Ayr, 364 — improve- 
ments at, 803 
Blackhouse hills, iii Selkirk, 30— tower, 

46 
Blackie moor mill, xi. Kincardine, 130 
Bla^'k isle of Cromaiiy, xiv. Ross, 23, 38, 

.383 — iarming society, 355 
Black Jack castle, xi. For&r, 251 
Blacklarg hill, iv. Dumfries, 297 
Blacklaw bill, iv. Dumfries, 102 
Blacklaw hill, xl Forfer, 461 
Blacklaw bum, vi. Lanark, 848 — colliery, 

881— house, 889 
Blacklaws, quarry at, ix. Fife, 979 
Black loch, xiii. Banff, 298 
Black loch, iv. Dumfries, 3, 504 
Black loch, ix. Fife, 829 
Black loch, vi. Lanark, 77 
Black loch, x. Perth, 908 
Black loch, vii. Renfrew, 516 
Black loch, viii. Stirling, 275 
Black Mill bay, vii. Argyle, 73 
Blackmire spring, xii. Aberdeen, 1071 
Blackmoor, camp on, xiv. Ross, 460 
Black mount, the, \'i. Lanark, 847 
Blackness, xi. Forfar, 568 
Blackness bum, ii. Linlithgow, 19, 57 — 

castle, 55, 60, 68— remains at, 26, 65 

—village, 72, 73 
Blackpots brickfield, xiii. Banfi^ 6, 237 
Black Quarter of Inch, the, iv. Wigton, 

129 
Blackridge village, ii. Linlithgow, 52— 

church, 53 
Bhvck rock of Troon, v. Ayr, 669, 670 
Black»boat ferry, xiii. Banff, 139 
Blackshaw flat, iv. Dumfries, 349— vil- 
lage, 356 



Black Springs, the, i. Edinburgh, 545 
Blackstob plantations, xiii. Elgin, 205 
Black stone of Odin, xv. Orkney, 81 
Blackstoun house, vii. Renfrew, 358, 369, 

370— tillage, 520 
Black tower, iu. Roxburgh, 388, 392 
Black water, see Blackadder 
Black water, v. Ayr, 529 
Black water, xiii. Banff, 197 
Blackwater house, xiii. Banff, 197, IJ'8 
Blackwater foot, caim at, v. Bute, 53 
Blackwater, district of, xi. Forfhr, 422 
Black water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 369 
Black water, x. Perth, 785, i\9d, 904, 

1110,1178, 1180 
Black water, xiv. Ross, 236, 367 
Black water, viii. Stirling, 396 
Black water, xv. Sutherland, 48, 66, 151 
Blackwood hill, iv. Dumfries, 460 — house, 

&c. 466, 467 
Blackwood, remains at, vi. Lanark, 33 
Blackwood hill, vii. Renfrew, 384— lochs* 

385 
Bladenoch village, &c. iv. Wigton, 6 — 

water, I, 11, 168, 196,220 
Blae loch, v. Ayr, 572 
Blaikly's hill, ii. Berwick, 1 30 "^ 

Blainslie moss, iiL Roxburgh, 75 
Blah- castle, x. Perth, 565, 568, 601 
Blair, cave at, v. Ayr, 211— house, &c. 

213,216 
Blair house, &c. ix. Fife, 696, 706 
Blair mount, x. Perth, 786, 898, 1111 — 

xi. Forfar, 422, 424— moor, x. Perth, 

900, 906 
Blair Adam house, &c. ix. Kinross, 39, 

40, 42, 48 
Blair Athol, parish of, x. Perth, 558 
Blairbum village, x. Perth, 601 
Blairdaff chapel, xii. Aberdeen, 577 
Blair Drummond house, &c. x. Perth, 

1255, 1264— moss, 1268 
Blairfindy castle, &c. xiii. Banff, 132, 

133 
Blaii^owrie, parish of, x. Perth, 896— 

villajge, 246, 900, 923 
Blairhill limeworks, v. Ayr, 382 
Blairhill, remains i^ iv. Wigton, 233 
Blairinroan, battle of, x. Perth, 315, 32ff 
Blair Ix)gie village, viii. Stirling, 215,231 
Blairmackhole moss, ii. Linlithgow, 76 
Blaimgone village, x. Perth, 1021 
Blaimnacoi, battie of, xiv. Ross, 57 
Blaimo, remains at, xi. Forfar, 689 
Blairquhan castle, &c. v. Ayr, 335, 336» 

338, 501 
Blairquhoss, tree at, viii. Stirling, 76 
Blairs loch, xiii. Elgin, 240 
Blairs, Catholic seminar v of, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 176,194 â–  ^ 
Blairs, Wallace's tree at, viii. Stirling, 348 
Blairston house, v. Ayr, 33, 363 
Blairtubimock, urns found at, xi. Lanark* 

651 
Blairvie castle, xiii Elgin, 239, 242, 24a 



XX 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Bkkeiiope, see Bbckhope 

HUkelav hill, iii. Roxbui^, 145 

RUkely^ well, xv. Orkney, 2 

HUku|\ 8ee Blackhope 

BUIowne house, ix. Fife, 8 

BKine water, viii Dunbarton, 36, Stiiv 

ling. 60, 61,71 
BUme^rd printworks, viiL Stirling, 82 
Blii^tvre pariah, vi Lanark, 314 — ^barony, 

31^craig, 314— priory, 316, 320— 

village, 321, 325— limeworks, 316, 322 
Blar Bhatterniah, battle o^ xiv. Inver- 

noM, 330 
Blarmore, remains at, v. Bute, 23 
Blar Fiadh forest, xiv. Invemeas, 445, 449 
Blar na cann, the, xiv. Ro88,236— inn, 250 
Blar na paire, battle of, xiv. Ross, 255 
Blarour school, xiv. Inverness, 511 
.Blar Seine, battle of, vii. Argyle, 142 
Blath bheinn hill, xiv. Invemess^ 300 
Blawert hill, vii Renfrew, 7 
Blearic^s stone, viL Renfrew, 14 
Blebo mills, ix. Fife, 724 
Bleeding bum, xii. Aberdeen, 1062 
Bleedy gill, iv. Dumfries, 70 
Bleedy pots, the, xiii. Banff, 283 
Blelack house, xii. Aberdeen, 1073 
Blelock standing stones, x. Perth, 433 
Bleneme, property of, iL Berwick, 118 
Blervie castle, xiii Elgin, 239, 242, 248— 

remains at, 250 
Blind well, ii Berwick, 169 
Blind bum, vi Lanark, 608 
Blinkbonny hill, ii. Berwick, 216 
Bloak well, v. Ayr, 728 
Blochairo, cairns at, viii. Stirling, 171 
Bloody burn, v. Ayr, 751 
Bloody butts, xi Forfar, 607 
Bloody fuulds, xii. Aberdeen, 613 
Bloody lands, ii Haddington, 209 
Bloody laws, iii. Roxburgh, 259 
Bloody pits, xiii. Banff, 283 
Bloody Sykcs, vi. Lanark, 481 
Bloody Tuacks, the, xv. Orkney, 1 26 
Bloonihill house, viii- Dunbarton, 87 
Blue hill, xiii. Banff', 1 1 1 
Blue Mull sound, xv. Shetland, 23, 24 
Bluestone Ford bridge, ii Berwick, 128 
Blumel sound, xv. Shetland, 36 
Blythswood house, vii Renfrew, 18, 19 — 

tileworks, 127 
Boadsberry hill, camp on, vi^ Lanark, 331 
Boarhills village, ix. Fife, 449, 481 
Boarlan loch, xiv. Ross, 403 
Boars^ chase district, ix. FifSe, 360 
Boars of Duncansbay, xv. Caithness, 23 
Boar stone, the, ii. Haddington, 209 
Boiit cave at Staffa, \-ii Argyle, 352 
Boat of Bridge, the, xiii. Banff, 359, 365 
Boatgreen village, &c. iv. Kirkcudbright, 

303, 375 ' 
Boath hill, xi. Forfar, 354, 357 
Boath house, &c. xiii Nairn, 8, 9, 13 
Bochastle, ruins of, x. Perth, 354 



Bochle hill, xiu. Banff, 123 
Boddam castle, xii Aberdeen, 364— light- 
house, 703— village, 345, 378 
i Bodisbeck hill, iv. Dumfries, 102, 104 
I Boe'ft cave, vii. Argyle, 414 
Bog colliery, v. Ayr, 444 
Bog, school at, xiv. Invemess, 501 
Bog loch, xi Kincardine, 325 
Bogany point, v. Bute, 99 
Bogbain, improvements at, xiii Banf^ 389 
Bogend of Stevenston, v. Ayr, 430 
Bogend colliery, vi Lanark, 625 
Bogendollo, rocks at, xi. Kincardine, IIS 
BoghaU loch, v. Ayr, 572, 580 
Boghall castle, vi Lanark, 354, 363 
Boghead limeworks, &c. v. Ayr, 324, 328 
Boghead, remains foimd at, xiii Banff, 161 
Boghead, remains found at, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 58 
Boghead mills, viii Dunbarton, 199— 

plantations, 184 
Bedhead Ihneworks, &c. vi Lanark, 259 

—village, 38 
Boghead rookery, ii Linlithgow, 156 
Boghead factory, vii Renfrew, 104 
Bog^ouse castle, vi Lanark, 502 
Boghouse of Kilsyth, viii Stirling, 140, 141 
Bogie water, xii. Aberdeen, 297, 407, 408* 

584, 1036, 1037— xiii Banff, 95 
Bogie house, ix. Fife, 154 
Bogle hill quarries, ix. Fife, 559 
Bogle Mart street, v. Ayr, 427 
Bogle's hole, the, i Edinburgh, 282 
Bogle's hole ford, vi. Lanark, 424 
Bogmill, tree at, x. Perth, 380 
Bogrie hill,iv. Dumfries, 337— tower, 341 
Bogroy, spring at, xiii. Elgin, 62 
Bogside, ruins at, v. Ayr, 360 
Bogside coal at, vi.. Lanark, 567 
Bogside of Kilsyth, the, viii. Stirling, 1 40 
Bogton loch, V. Ayr, 310, 313 
Boharm parish, xtii Banff, 355 — vallev, 

363 
Bohespick district, x. Perth, 559 
Boiling well, the, ix. Fife, 265 
Boindie parish, xiii. Banff, 220 — burn,i6. 

—village, 230 
Boisdale loch, xiv. Inverness, 183, 195— 

chapel, 188 
Boldbura, iii. Peebles, 39 
Boleskine and Abertarff, patish of, xiv. 

Inverness, 51 
Bolfracks, district of, x. Perth, 533 
Bolshan hill, xi. ForiBw, 393 — castle, &c. 

394, 397 
Bolton parish, ii. Haddington, 271— -bum, 

ib. 272— house, 275 
Boltonmuir, camp at, ii. Haddington, 274 
Bombie castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 20 
Bombiemains, remains at, iv. Kircud- 
bright. 20 
Bomflat of Dalserf, vi. I^anark, 733 
Bomphlet, moat at, vi Lanark, 362 
Bona church, xiv. Invemess, 14 



OENBRAL IKDEX. 



XXI 



Bon Accord, quoad aacra parish of, xii. 

Aberdeen, 1077, 1078 
Bonally ponds,!. Edinbui^h, 109-^house, 

114,120 
Bonar bridge, xiv. Ross, 282, 422, xv. Su- 
therland, 18,20,21,215 
Bonamess village, xiv. Ross, 432 
Boncastle, ruins of^ vi. Lanark, 484 
Bonchester hill, iii. Roxburgh, 208, 212 
Bo^esB, see Bbrrowstownness 
BonesB, camp at, xiv. Inverness, 14 
Bonessan village, vii. Ai^gyle, 310 
Bongate obelisk, &c. iii Roxbwgh, 12, 13 
Bonhard colliery, ii. Linlithgow, 70^ 

house, (58 — village, 75 
Bonhard, remains at, x. Perth, 1063 
Bonhill parish, viil. Dunbarton, 220 — 

house, ib — village, 228 
Bonington falls, vi. Lanark, 5— house, &c 

ih. 5, 9, 16, 18, 957 
Bonjedward tower, ilL Roxburgh, 11— 

house, 14 — village, 18 
Bonkle village, vi Lanark, 621 
Bonnan hill, vi. Lanark, 303 
Bonnington, property of, i Edinburgh, 83 

— house, 92— mineral spring at, 621 
Bonnington, see Bonington 
Bonninton, spring at, vii Renfrew, 385 
Bonny water, viii. Stirling, 3, 116, 139 
Bonnybridge village, viii. Stirling, 3, 22 
Bonnyrigg, village of, i. Edinbur^ 609 
Bonnyford saw mill, viii. Stirling, 123 
Bonnymuir, skirmish at, viii. Dunbarton, 

149, Stirling, 8— distillery, 20 
Bonnyside sawmills, viii. Stirling, 1 9 
Bonnvton den and castle, xi. Forfiur, 1 1 6 

—village, 334 
Bonshaw house, iv. Dunbarton, 280 
Bony brae, iii Roxburgh, 317 
Bonytown, spring at, ix. Fife, 454 
Boon hill, ii Berwick, 348, 349— stone at, 

363 
Boon the brae, chapel and spring at, vii. 

Renfrew, 328 
Boon Dreigh water, ii. Berwick, 347, 349 
lk)quhan bum, &c. viii. Stirling, 26, 48, 
266— glen,60,53— property, Ac 51,266 
Bord bum, viii Dunbarton, 173 
Bord hill, xiii. Banff, 298 
Bore spring, vii. Renfrew, 20 
Bore stdhe, Bannockbum, viii. Stirling, 

316, 323 
Bore stone, Gask, x. Perth, 338 
Boreland castle, v. Avr, 482— remains at, 

39 
Boreland house, iv. Dumfries, 538— tower, 

127 
Boreland village, ix. Fife, 135, 139 
Boreland, dun of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 53 
Boreland hill, &c. iii Peebles, 137, 141 
Boreland house, x. Perth, 1087 
BoreUnd property, vii. Renfrew, 395 
Borennich district, x. Pei-th, 660 
Boreraig, chapel at, xiv. Inverness, 305 

—school, 339 



Boigie water, xv. Sutherland, 69, 170, 

179,216 
Borgue, rock at, xv. Caithness, 87 
Borgue, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 47 
Borland, chapel at, v. Ayr, 479, 482 
Borland bum, vi Lanark, 852— quarry, 

860— remains at, 854 
Borley loch, xv. Sutherland, 87 
Bomess head, iv. Kirkcudbright, 48, 

Wigton, 24 
Bomirii property, xiv. Invemess, 190 
Bomiskittaig, caves at, xiv. Invemess, 248 
Borough nuir, i Edinburgh, 7, 624 
Borough head, iv. Wigton, 36 
Borrow point, iv. Kirkcudbright, 235 
Borrowfield moss, xi Forfar, 280 
Borrowmuir hills, xi. Kincardine, 132 
Borrowston, caves at, xv. Orkney, 13 
Borrowstownness, parish of, ii. Linlithgow, 

120— town, 134, 136, 139 
Borthwick parish, i Edinbuiigh, 150— 

castle, 156, 167, 171— church, 172— 

village, 186 
Borthwick water, iii. Roxburgh, 76, 87, 

89, 380, 428, Selkirk, 79 
Borthwfckbrae house, iic iii Roxbui|^, 

90,92 
Borthwick hill, remains at, i Edinburgh, 

202 
Borthwickshiels house, &c. iii Roxbui;^, 

90, 9), 92 

Borve castle, xiv. Inverness, 188 — school, 

294 
Borve water, xiv. Ross, 143 
Boss cairns, iv. Kirkcudbright, 131 
Botanic garden, Edinburgh, i Edinbuigfa, 

691 — Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 175 
Bckthkennar parish, viii. Stirling, 201 
Bothland bum, vi Lanark, 401, 403 
Bothwell bum, ii Haddington, 225 
Bothwell parish, vi Lanark, 766 — barony,. 

778— cartle, 315, 769, 783, 787, 957— 

church, 788— village, 766, 770, 793, 

797 
Bothwell bridge, vi. I^nark, 250, 286, 

766, 771, 789— battle of, 266, 779 
Bothwell oistle, village of, vi. Lanark, 

793 
Bothwellhaugh, property of, \i, Lanark, 

784— bridge at, 789 
Bothwell muir, vi. Lanark, 624 
Bothwellpark house, vi Lanark, 784 
Botriphnie parish, xiii. Banff, 209— house,. 

210 
Bottomless mire, vi Lanark, 481 
Boughtrig plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 194 
Bounne8B,tthe, xv. Shetland, 95 
Bouriefad village, xi Forfar, 152 
Bourjo, the, iii. Roxburgh, 61 
Bourock, limestone at, v. Ayr, 291 
Bourtrie parish, xii. Aberdeen, 620 
Bousta, hamlet of, xv. Shetland, 96 
Boveray isle, xiv. Inverness, 163, 170» 
Bow castle, i Edinburgh, 418 
Bow cave, the, xiii Braff, 179 



XXI 1 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Bow of Hackwick rocks, xv. Orkney, 116 
Dowb«at hill, i. P^dinbuigh, 49 
Bowbridgc colliery, v. Ayr, 444 
Bowbutts of Glencaim, !â–¼. Dumfries, 331 
Bowbotts of Strachan, xi. Kincardine, 236 
lk)wdcn hill, viii. Dunbarton, 181 
lk)wdcn hill, ii. Linlithgow, 35 — camp on, 

50 
Bowden parish, iii. Roxburgh, 34— bum, 

36— moor, 35^village, 36, 39, 48 
Bower parish, xv. Caithness, 114 
Bower none, iii. Selkirk, 30 
Bower of Wandell, vi. Lanark, 818 
Bower park, vi. Lanark, 818 
Bowerhouses house, ii. Haddington, 227 
Bowermadden property, xv. Caithness, 

114 
Bowfield bleachfield, vii. Renfrew, 102— 

house, 76 
Bowhill house, &c iii. Selkirk, 2, 5 
Bowhouse farm, xi. Forfar, 412 
Bowknap rock, vii. Argyle, 259 
Bowland house, I Edinburgh, 417 
Bowling bay, viii. Dunbarton, 1 6 — village, 

29 
Bowman stone, xH. Aberdeen, 426 
Bowman'b flat, vi. Lanark, 733 
Bowmont water and vale, iii. Roxburgh, 

159, 160, 448, 450, 462- forest, 223 
Bowmore village, vii. Argyle, 668, 669 
Bowncas canal, iv. Dumfries, 259 
Bowtree dam, vi. Lanark, 378 
Boydston castlehill, v. Ayr, 257 
Boyne bum, xiii. Banff, 1, 178, 179, 220 
—castle, 1, 224— forest, 220— house, 
226, 228— thanedome, 15 
Boyne's mill house, xii. Aberdeen, 601 
Boyndie bum, xiii. Aberdeen, 2, 40, 46— 

bay, 2, 5 
Boyndlie house, xii. Aberdeen, 723 
Braan water, x. Perth, 251, 453, 455, 1005 
Brabloch house, vii. Renfrew, 198 
Brabster house, &c. xv. Caithness, 24, 27 
Brabsterdorran, property of, xv. Caith- 
ness, 115 
BrAbsterniire, xv. Caithness, 31 
Bracadolc, parish of, xiv. Invemess, 295 

—loch, 296, 323 
Braccans, tumuli at, xii. Aberdeen, 993 
Brachan camp, xi. Forfar, 548 
Bracholy, suppressed parish of, xir. In- 
verness, 375 
Bracken heugh, the, v. Ayr, 289 
Brackla distillery, xiii. Nairn, 26 
Brackland bridge, x. Perth, 352 
Bracklaw bum, xi. Forfar, 525 
Braco, farm of, xiii. Banff, 217 • 
Braco plantations, x. Perth, 318 — village, 

327, 331, 332 
Bractie law, xi. Forfar, 386 
Bractullo, remains at, xi. Forfiir. 386 
Braden loch, v. Ayr, 334 , 

Brae, district of, xiv. Invemess, 5 1 1 
Brae Dunstan, ii. Berwick, 51 
Brae Moray, xiii. Elgin, 179 



Brae Riach hill, xiii Elgin, 137 

Brae Roy chapel, xir. Invemen, 126 

Brae of Airlie, xL For&r, 671 

Brae of Fea hill, xv. Orkney, 86 

Brae of Feam, xL For&r, 312 

Brae of Fetteresso, xi Kincardine, 246 

Brae of the Well, xiv. Inverness, 380 

Braes, improvements at, viiL Dunbarton, 

198 
Braes, property of, xiiL Elgin, 120 
Braes of Angus, xi. Forfar, 636 
Braes of Avon, xiii. Banff, 298 
Braes of Fordoun, xi. Kincardine, 68 
Braes of Gartly, xiii. Banff, 95 
Braes of Gleniffer, vii. Renfrew, 140, 160 
Braes of Glenlivat, xiii. Banff, 124 
Braes of Kilpatrick, viii Dunbarton, 36 
Braes of I^m, vii Argyle, 62 
Braes of Orwell, ix. Kinross, 53 
Braes of Pettie, xiv. Inverness, 377 
Braes of Portree, xiv. Inverness, 233 
Braehead house, i. Edinburgh, 597 
Braehead, camp on, vi Lanark, 8 1 7 — vil- 
lage, 90, 898 
Braehead house, vii Renfrew, 5— rocks 

at, 148 
Rraehungay, xv. Caithness, 87 
Braelang^ell lodge, xiv. Ross, 423— pro- 
perty, &c. 43, 48--distilIery, 49 
Braemar, district of, xii Aberdeen, 617— 

castle, 650— Highland Society, 653 
Braemore, rocks at, xv. Caithness, 87 
Braeroddoch loch, xii. Aberdeen, 1050 
Braga ness, xv. Shetland, 105 
Bragar bay, xiv. Ross, 142 — remains at, 

145 
Brahan castle, xiv. Ross, 252, 366, 401 
Braichlich property, xiv. Invemess, 375 
Braid burn, i Edinburgh, 109— hills, 615 
Braid goc, xv. Caithness, 118 
Braid, remains at, iv. Wigton, 232 
Braidlee, remains found at, v. Ayr, 846 
Braidwood, barony of, vi. Lanark, 577-^ 
collieries, 567 — house, 582 — limeworks, 
&c. 569, 571 — remains at, 581 — village, 
592 
Brakes, remains found at, viii. Stirling, 

210 
Braky, property of, xi. Forfar, 395 
Brallaig loch, vii Argyle, 64 
Bran glen, x. Perth, 219— water, ^51, 453, 

455, 1005 
Branbury hill, quarry at, xv. Sutherland, 

159 
Brandir pass, vii. Argyle, 88 
Brand's hill, xi. Kincardine, 271 
Braniachan hill, v. Ayr, 309 
Brannan stancs, the, xiii. Banff, 225 
Branteth qnarrv, iv. Dumfries, 284 — well, 

276 
Branxholm castle, iii Roxburgh, 38l», 

393 
Branxton plantations, ii. Haddington, 234, 

238 
Brany loch, xi. Forfar, 436^water, 192 



QEKERAL INDEX. 



XXIII 



Braon loch, xiv. Ross, 72 
BraiiHa sound, xv. Shetland* 1 
Brawblin, springs at, xv. Caithness, 15 
Brawl castle, xv. Caithness, 70 
Brawlinknows, chapel at, xiiL Banff, 97 
Brax quarry, xi. Forfiur, 496 
Breacaclia bay, vii. Aigyle, 199^K»stle, 

207 
Breacdearg Ipch, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Breadiesholme house, vL Lanark, 652 
Breadalbane castle, x. Perth, 345 — Agrir 

cultural Association, 476 
Breakachy burn, xiv. Inverness, 419 
Brechin, parish and town, xi Forfar, 129 

.castle, 131, 1 34,-.cathedral, 133 
Brecken hill, iv. Dumfries, 204 
Breckry glen, vii. Argyle, 41 3— water, 416 
Brecon voe, xv. Shetland, 24 
Brediland pottery, viL Renfrew, 156— 

property, 197 
Bredus' well, x. Perth, 652 
Breedsorrow, tradition regarding, v. Ayr, 

800 
Breich bum, vi. Lanark, 608 
Breich bum, ii. Linlithgow, 76, 116 
Brenahegleish hill, xv. Caithness, 84 
Breoshaw quarry, vL Lanark, 423 
Breriach mount, xii. Aberdeen, 648 
Bressay isle and sound, xV. Shetland, 1, 

7,9 
Bressay, Burra,and Quarff, umted parishes 

of, XV. Shetland, 7 
Breston, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 39 
Brewers^ Know, viii. Clackmannan, 108 
Brewery village, i. Edinburgh, 1 84 
Briarachan water, x. Perth, 638, 639 
Bricedale house, ix. Fife, 749 
Brichty glen, xi. Forfar, 421 
Brickfield, tilework at, ii. Linlithgow, 71 
Brickigoe, xv. Caithness, 119— loch, 124 
Bridekirk, village, &c. of, iv. Dumfries, 

526, 536 
Brides ness, xv. Orkney, 104 
Bridewell, Aberdeen, xii. Aberdeen, 80 
Bridewell, Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 720 
Bridewell, Glasgow, vl Lanark, 215 
Bridge of Allan village, viii, Stirling, 218, 

231 
Bridge of Alvah, xiii. Banff, 146 
Bridge of Cree village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

134 
Biidge of Dee village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

188 
Bridge of Dunkeld, x. Perth, 991 
Bridge of Earn nllage, x. Perth, 797, 817 
Bridge of Orr village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

2b0 
Bridge of Teith village, x. Perth, 1230, 

1240— chapel, 1231 
Bridge of Weir factory, viL Renfrew, 51 

—village, 371,378 
Bridge castle, ruins of, ii. Linlithgow, 60 

colliery, 38, 52— house, 38 
Bridgend, Cardross, village, viiL Dunbar- 
ton, 88, 91 



Bridgeod, Dalkeith, village, L Edinbuigh, 

510 
Bridgend, Dunse, ii. Berwick, 249 
Bridgend, Uyndford, village, vL Lanark, 

24 
Bridgend, Kinnoull, village, x. Perth, 939 
Bridgend, Largs, improvements at, v. Ayr, 

803 
Bridgend, Leggerwood, ii. Berwick, 348 
Bridgend, Lochwinnoch, bridge, m Ren- 
frew, 96 
Bridgend, Maybole, castle, v. Ayr, 366 
Bridgend, Melrose, village, ill. Roxburgh, 

68 
Bridgend, Ruthven, xi. Forfar, 413 
Bridgend, Rosskeen, village, xiv. Ross, 272 
Bridgehouse, property o^ ii. Linlithgow, 

62 
Bridgeness, il Linlithgow, 66 — village, 72 
Bridgeton, Redgorton, cairns at, x. Perth, 

172 
Bridgeton, St Cyrus, hill, xL Kincardine, 

270— house, 283 
Bridgeton, St Vigeans, xi For&r, 496 
Bridgetown of Spev, xiii Banff, 366 
Briech water, ii Linlithgow, 76, 116 
Brierbush village, iv. Dumfries, 608 
Briery well, the, ix. Fife, 964 
Brig o* Tram, the, xv. Caithness, 119 
Brigham or Birghain village, ii. Berwick, 54 
Brighton's quarry, viii Stirling, 192 
Briglands &rm, xiii Banff, 366 
Brigton hUl, xi Forfer, 207 
Brigton of Ruthven, xi. For&r, 413 
Brindister ness and voe, xv. Shetland, 101 
Brindy hill, xii Aberdeen, 693 
Brisbane observatory, v. Ayr, 788.-.glen 

and house, 788, 799 
Broad bay, xiv. Ross, 117 
Broad moss, x. Perth, 244 
Broadfield house, vii Renfrew, 68 
Broadford foctories, xii Aberdeen, 1077 
Broadford church, &.c xiv. Inveraess, 306 
— Umeworks, 278, 310— village, 306, 
307 
Broadhaven, copper ore at, xv. Caithness, 

126— vilhige, 153, 167, 158 
Broadhill, the, xii. Aberdeen, 6 
Broadlaw, rocks at, xi. Forfar, 144 
Broadlaw bill, iv. Dumfries, 103 
Broadlaw hill, iii. Peebles, 56 
Broadlee, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 90 
Broadlie factory, vii. Renfrew, 336 
Broadmeadows house, ii Berwick, 163, 

iii. Selkirk, 6 
Broadstone Umeworks, v. Ayr, 673 
Broats house, iv. Dumfries, 280 
Brochlock, skirmish at, v. Ayr, 360— cas- 
tle, 365 
Brock bum, vii Renfrew, 34, 316, 638 
Brock hill, iii Selkirk, 40 
Brockshole, ironstone at, vi. Lanark, 571 
Brodichan loch, xii. Aberdeen, 648 
Brodick bay, v. Bute, 3— castle, 11, 22 
—harbour, &c 32, 33— church, 34 



XXIV 



OBKERAL INDEX. 



Brodie house, ziil Elgin, 2, 5, 218, 222 
— obelisk at, 221 — quarries, Nairn, 8 
—^plantations, 9 
Brodiels cairn, xii. Aberdeen, 264 
Broich water and house, ?iiL Stirling, 265, 

267 
Bromland house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
Bronach bum, xiv. Inverness, 419 
Brony water, ziL Aberdeen, 900 
Broom, skirmish at, iv. Dumfiries, 248 
Broom isle, xiii Elgin, 64 
Broom loch, x. Perth, 639, 996 
Broom loch and water, xiT. Ross, 72, 74 â–  
Broom of Moy >illage, xiii Elgin, 226 
Broomage, improTements at, yiiL Stirling, 

366 
Broomhall house, ix. Fife, 824, 856 
Broomhill loch, iT. Dumfiies, 379 
Broomhill house, Ti Lanark,733^quan7, 

724, 726 
Broomholme property, &c. iv. Dumfiies, 

416,420,421 
Broomhouse, ii Berwick, 267, 270 — ^pa- 
per mill, &c. 271, Haddington, 230 
Broomhouse village, vi. Lanark, 652 
Broomlee plantations, iii. Peebles, 165 
Broomley property, xL Forfar, 123 
Broomrig house, iv. Uumfiies, 560 
Broomylees hills, iii. Peebles, 135— quar- 
ry, 136 
Brora cave, xv. Sutherland, 150 — colliery, 
152— loch, 149, 150— strath, 149— wa- 
ter, 46, 48, 151, 160,215,217 
Brora, geological phenomena at, xiv. In- 
verness, 5 
Brother loch, \iL Renfrew, 34, 516 
Brotherton house, xi. Kincardine, 53 
Brothock water, xL For&r, 74, 75, 490, 

493 
Brough, fort at, xv. Shetland, 25 
Brough Dunnet fisheries, xv. Caithness, 

37 — ^harbour, 46 
Brough of Delting, xv. Shetland, 57 
Brough of Cuppasetter, xv. Shetland, 83 
Brough ton bum, iii. Peebles, 79 — ^place, 

88— village, 89, 93 
Broughton, Olenholm, and Kilbucho, 

united parishes of, iii. Peebles, 78 
Broughtonhope hill, iii. Peebles, 79 
Broughty, chapel at, xi. For&r, 54 1—* 

castle, 547 
Broughty ferry, village and quoad mcra 
parish of, xi. Forfar, 5, 40, 549, 552, 554 
Brouland, wart of^ xv. Shetland, 1 1 1 
Brow, spring at, iv. Dumfries, 219 
Brow 1^ mine, vi. Lanark, 336 
Browhouses, bay o^ iv. Dumfries, 262— 

village, 270 
Brown head, v. Bute, 40, 41 
Brown hiU, xiii Banff, 79 
Brown loch, v. Ayr, 159, 766 
Brown Carrick hills, v. Ayr, 2, 30, 349 
Brown Muir hill, v. Ayr, 576 — iv, Dum- 
fries, 290 



Brownie^ I^y^ xi Kincardine, 25 
Brownlee coUieriea, vi Lanark, 56S 
Brownrig house, vi. Lanark, 548 
Brown'ft hill, ii Haddii^ton, 1 
Brownside fidls, vii Redrew, 317 — quar- 
ry, 320 
Broxburn village, ii Linlithgow, 87 
Broxburn water, ii Haddington, 71, 225 
Broxmouth park, ii Haddington, 71, 77, 

79,80 
Broxlaw hill, iii Roxburgh, 303 
Bruach na fiiaian, spring at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 380 
Bruan, mission of, xv. Caithness, 108, 162 
Bruar, falls o^ x. Perth, 560 
Brocels acres, iv. Dumfiies, 248 
Bruce^ castle, viii Stirlii^ 323 
BrucelB how, xii Aberdeen, 659 
Brucefield hill, &c xii Aberdeen, 178, 

624 . 
Brucefield collieries, viii Clacknuuinaii, 

128— house, 127 
Brucefield mills, ix. Fife, 890 — nUage, 

874 
Brucehaven village and harbour, iz. Fife, 

230, 824, 896 
Bruiach loch, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Brundin ]aws,.iii Roxburgh, 255 
Brunstane bum, i Edinburgh, 382 — ca*- 

tle,36— houw, 11 
Brunthill, the, ii Haddington, 71 
Bruntiburn, camp at, ii Berwick, 72-~ 

plantations, 81 — quarry, 66 
Brunton, name of^ ii Berwick, 247 
Brunton castle, ix. Fife, 665 — village, 651 
Bruntwood loch, v. Ayr, 181 
Brux house, &c. xii Aberdeen, 411, 444, 

448 
Bmxie, camp at, xii Aberdeen, 147 
Bruxie hill, xi Kincardine, 154, 310 
Brydeston mill, xi Forfar, 673 
Brydieston, xi Forfar, 685 
Buachaille rock, vii. ArjQrle, 352 
BuachaiUe Etive hills, vu. Argyle, 471 
Buarblach farm, xiv. Invemess, 141 
Buscleuch, annexed parish of^ iii Selkirk, 

54, 65 — castle and chapel, 66, 67 
Buchan, district of, xii Aberdeen, 799— 

Agricuitiuul AsaDciation, 724, 866 
Buchanan, parish of, viii Stirling, 89 — 

house, ib. 92, Dunbarton, 212 
Buchanan^s monument, viii Stirling, 66 
Buchanhaven village, xii Aberdeen, 370 
BuchannesB head and lighthouse, xii 

Aberdeen, 345, 382 
Buchanty chapel, Ac. x. Perth, 251, 253, 

255 
Buchany village, x. Perth, 1240 
Bucharin castle, xiii. Banff, 364 
Buchlyvie village and quocut aacra parish, 

viii. Stirling, 1 1 1 
Bucholie castle, xv. Caithness, 25 
Bucbragie house, remains at, xiii Ban£ 

225 



GENERAL INDEX. 



XXV 



Buck well, vi. Lanark, 846 

Bucket burn, xii. Aberdeen, 436, 530 

Buckhaven village and hitfbour, ix. Fife, 

394, 396, 398, 400, 403 
Buckholmaide village, iii. Roxburgh, 66, 

67 
Buckie bum, xii. Aberdeen, 492 
Buckie bum, xiii Ban^ 250^hapel, 

265— lodge, 253,260— village, 247, 260 
Buckie glen, x. Perth, 344 
Buckie bum, viii. Stirling, 323 
Buck Inch isle, vii. ReaSew, 5 
Buckhind bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 5 
Bucklerhold tower, iv. Dumfries, 444 
Bucklyvie village, ix. Fife, 281 
Buckljvie village and quoad aacra parish, 

viii. Stirling, 270 
Buddo rock, ix. Fife, 451 
Bae Inch isle, viii. Dunbarton, 233 
Buie water, viL Ai^le, 479 
Buie loch, xv. SntherUmd, 17 
Biiilg loch, xiil Banff, 298 
Buitterlach burial ground, xiii. Banff, 133 
Buittle parish, iv. Kirkcudbright, 200 — 

castle, 203 
Bull loch, V. Bute, 99 
Bullers Buchan village, xii. Aberdeen, 

979 
Bullet Knowe, the, viii Stirling, 148 
Bullion hleachfieldi, xi. Forfiir, 578 
Bullion well, ii. Linlithgow, 110 
Bui vicar bay, vii Argyle, 73 
Bunachton loch, xiv. Inverness, 516 
Bunawe iron works, vii Argyle, 100, 519, 

520 
Bunchrew house, xiv. Invemess, 460 
Bundalloch, xiv. Ross, 178 
Buness house, xv. Shetland, 40-^chrome 

quarries, 147 
Bun Iligh village, xv. Sutherland, 134 
Bunker's hill, i. Edinburgh, 616, 619 
Bunkle barony, ii Berwick, 118— edge, 

115— wood, 117 
Bunkle and Preston, united parishes o^ 

ii. Berwick, 115 
Bunloit fort, xiv. Invemess, 45 
Bunman hill, iv. Wigton, 201 
Bunnach, limestone at, v. Ayr, 814 
Bunroy, school at, xiv. Invemess, 511 
Bunty village, xii Aberdeen, 1048 
Bunzeon house, ix. Fife, 568 
Burdiehouse bum, i Edinbuigh, 109— 

quarries, 2, 20 
Burdyards house, xiii. Elgin, 162 
Burg head, vii. Ajrgyle, 299 
Burg hill, xi Forfar, 129 
Burgar house, xv. Orkney, 202 
Burgh of Hempriggs, xv. Caithness, 118 
Burghead, remains at, xiii Elgin, 36 — 

village, 38, 40 
Burgie castle, xiii. Elgin, 239, 242, 248— 

remains found at, 249— trees at, 244 
Burican mill, v. Bute, 56 
Burkle hill, xi. Forfar, 129 
Burleigh castle, ix. Kmross, 59 

VOL. XV. 



Burleigh^ hole, ix. Kinross, 60 

Bum colliery, v. Ayr, 439 

Bum of Boyne, xiii Banff, 1 

Bum of Kilry district, xi. Forfer, 432 

Bum house, &c. xi. Kincardine, 26, 73, 

89, 112,114,119 
Bum well, vi Lanark, 420 
Bum colliery, ii Linlithgow, 71 
Bumbank hiurbour and village, xi. Kin- 
cardine, 196, 208 
Bumbank water, x. Perth, 1248 
Bumbrae well, vi Lanark, 400 
Bumcleugh embankments, iv. Dumfries, 

409 
Burness house, xv. Orkney, 68— annexed 

parish, 85— loch, 118, 
Bumetland, moat at, vi Lanark, 362 
Bumfoot valley, iv. Dumfries, 274 — 

house, 431 
Bumfoot port, iv. Kirkcudbright, 361 
Bnmfoot collieries, &c. ii. Linlithgow, 58, 

63 
Bumfoot mills, x. Perth, 334 
Bumfoot bleachfield, vii. Renfrew, 102 
Bumfoot of Oargunnock, viii Stirling, 49 
Bumfoot of Luce harbour, iv. Wigton, 66 
Bumhaven village, xii. Aberdeen, 381, 

709 
Bumhead house, v. Ayr, 132 — Roman 

road at, 315 
Bumhead village, iv. Dumfries, 508 
Bumhead, coins found at, vi Lanark, 581 
Bumhead, spring at, viii. Stirling, 147 
Bumhouse village, v. Ayr, 593 
Bumhouse house, i Edinburgh, 417 
Burnmouth quarries, ii Berwick, 132-^ 

viUage, 131, 143 
Bumoch water, v. Ayr, 106 
Bums* monument, Ayr, v. Ayr, 16, 26— 

Edinburgh, i Edinburgh, 655 
Bumside, tumulus at, xii Aberdeen, 993 
Bumside house, xiii. Banff, 255 
Bumside village, ix. Fife, 106, 109 
Bumside hill, xi For&r,597 — house, 608 

—village, 608 
Bumside quarry, ii Haddington, 205 
Bumside village, xi. Kincardine, 285, 292 
Bumside village, xiii Nairn, 4 
Bumswark hill, iv. Dumfries, 204, 207, 

290— camps, &.c. 197, 292— ironstone 

at, 196 
Bumtisland parish, ix. Fife, 404— town, 

404,411,418 
Bumturk quarries, ix. Fife, 105 
Bumweil lull, v. Ayr, 21 
Burra isles, xv. Shetland, 8 
Burrafrith, xv. Shetland, 36, 38— isle, 38 
Burraness, xv. Shetland, 24 — fort on, 25, 

27 
Burravoe, xv. Shetland, 83 — remains at, 

57 
Burray isle, xv. Orkney, 191 
Burreldales, remains at, xiii Banff, 162 
Burrelton village, x. Perth, 1171 
Bunion castle, xv. Orknev, 105 

d 



XXVI 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Burron hill, camp at, iv. Dumfries, 445 
Burrow head, xv. Orknej-, 157 
Burrowhcad, cliffi at, iv. Wigton, 53 
Busby moor, v. Ayr, 196 
Busby village and factories, vL Lanark, 

599, 605, 893 
Busby factory, vii. Renfrew, 523 
Bush house, i. Edinbuigh, 317 
Bush park,moat at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 298 
Bush bum, viii. Stirling, 139 
Bushy aik lane, vii. Renfrew, 504 
Bushy berry hill, vi. Lanark, 354, 357, 362 
Bushy bield,the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 379 
Bushy hill village, vi. Lanark, 431 
Buss, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 286 
Busta house, &c. xv. Shetland, 57 
But of Lewis, xiv. Inverness, 159, Rosa, 

120 
Bute isle, v. Bute, 82, 95 — farmers* so- 
ciety, 91, 108 
Buteland, remains at, L Edinburgh, 547 

— property of, 549 
Buteshire, observations on, v. Bute, 118 
Buthland bum, viiL Dunbarton, 173 
Butter well, vii. Renfrew, 315 
Butterston loch, x. Perth, 673 
Butts, battle of the, vl Lanark, 109 
Butts of Renfrew, vii Renfrew, 17 
Byre bum, iv. Dumfries, 418— collieries, 

486 
Bjrrecleugh, cairn at, ii Berwick, 94 
Byrehope burn, i. Edinbuigh, 404 
Bvreshill, monument on, ii. Haddington, 

141 
Byset water, xii. Aberdeen, 303 
Caaf water, v. Ayr, 193, 212, 812 
Caanlochan glen, xiv. Ross, 24 
Ca an Righ, tradition regarding, xiv. Ross, 

24 
Cabrach parish, xiii. Banff, 196 
Cachelrigh hill, ii. Linlithgow, 36 
Cadboll propertv, xiv. Ross, 447 — castle, 

361 
Caddam village, x. Perth, 1147 
Caddel bum, v. Ayr, 193 
Cadden, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 733 
Cadden castle, xi. Kincardine, 314 
Cadder parish, vi. Lanark, 398, 933— pro- 
perty, house, &c. 407 — village, 408 — 
water, 302 
Cadder house, viii. Stirling, 234 
Cademuir castle, iii. Peebles, 115 — hill, 

9 
Cadon water, i. Edinburgh, 404 
Cadzow bum, vi. Lanark, 255 — castle and 

property, ib. 267, 269 
Caen, spring at, xv. Sutherland, 138 
Caerbantorgium,fortof, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

19 
Caerdean, camp at, x. Perth, 235 
Caerketan hill, i. Edinburgh, 1 08 
Caerlanrig chapel, &c. iii. Roxburgh, 411, 

432, 437 
Caerlaverock parish, iv. Dumfries, 349 
—castle, 351 



Caerwinning hill, v. Ayr, 211— camp on, 

219 
Caileoch isle, viii. Stirling, 89, 90 
Cailleach head, xiv. Ron, 74 
Caillevar hill, xii Aberdeen, 440, 4BQ, 

487 
Caillich Vearor stone, vii. Argyle, 105 
Cailm loch, xv. Caithness, 15 
Cainail glen, vii Argyle, 278, 279 
Caiplich moss, xiv. Inverness, 40^cainw 

at, 14 
Caiplie, remains .found at, ix. Fife, 976 
Cairmaneam hill, xL Kincardine, 24 
Caim hiU, xii. Aberdeen, 302, 728, 732 
Cairn hill, iv. Dumfries, 198 
Caim hills, i. Edinbur^^ 356 
Caim hiU, iv. Wigton, 201 
Caim house, iv. Wigton, 1 04 
Caim water, iv. Dumfries, 331, 337 — 

Kirkcudbright, 231, 265, 267 
Caim of Dolt hill, iv. Wigton, 201 
Caim of Ord hill, xiii. BaniS, 5 
Caimachath, xiv. Ross, 354 
Caimaig water and strath, xv. Sutherland, 

23 
Caimakay hill, xiii. Banff, 111, 123 
Caimapple hill, ii. Linlithgow, 35, 1<50 
Caim Axe, xiv. Inverness, 15 
Caim-a-vain, ix. Kinross, 60 
Cairaaveran, xiL Aberdeen, 499 
Caimbarrow, property o^ xiii Banff, 206 
Caimbeddie, ruins at, x. Perth, 873 
Cairo Bran, xv. Sutherland, 191 
Caimbroe house, vi. Lanark, 784 
Caimbrook, rocks at, iv. Wigton, 1 04, 1 05 
Cairabulg castle, xii. Aberdeen, 294 — 

village, 295, 296 
Caimbulg, remains on, vii. Argyle, 342 
Cairnburgh isle, vii. Argyle, 340 
Caimchallein, vii. Argyle, 68 
Caimchedly, xii. Aberdeen, 331 
Caimchester camp, ii. Berwick, 1 35 
Caimchunaig hill, xiv. Ross, 404 
Caimcockle, tumulus at, vi. Lanark, 734 
Caimcoinneag hill, xiv. Ross, 262 
Caimconan hill, xi. ForfSu', 491 
CaimcoulUe, remains at, xii. Aberdeen, 

1122 
Cairo cubie, springs at, ix. Fife, 828 
Cairodow point, viii Dunbarton, 159 
Cairoess house, xii. Aberdeen, 224 
Cairoey hill, vi. Lanark, 581 
Cairoeyhill, village of, ix. Fife, 710, 714 
Cairofield house, xiii. Banff, 253, 255 
Cairafield, remains at, iv. Wigton, 15 
Cairogall, remains foimd at, xii. Aberdeen, 

354 — quarry, 860-^improvements at, 

865 
Cairogarroch bay, iv. Wigton, 201 
Cairo Oeddes, x. Perth, 888 
Cairngillun hill, v. Avr, 746 
Cairogorm hill, xiii. Banff, 125, 296, 298, 

Elgin, 92, 137 
Cairn Greg, xi. Forfar, 546 
Cairo Oregor, xiv. Inverness, 515 



GENERAL INDEX. 



XXVU 



Cairngreesie property, xi. Kincardine, 260 
Cairogryffe hills, vi Lanark, 536 
Caimharrow hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 314, 

374 
Caimhill house, v. Ayr, 765 
Caimhill property, xi Kincardine, 260 
Cairnholy, iv. Kirkcudbri|^t, 333, 384 
Caimie parish, xii. Aberdeen, 1017 
CaimiehiU village, x. Perth, 442 
Caimie hills, ix. Fife, 536--houBe, 8, 326 
Cairninuag, ruins at, xv. Sutherland, 191 
Cairn Irenan, xiv. Ross, 63 
Caimkinnow hill, iv. Dumfries, 500 
Caimmoneam hill, xi. Kincardine, 170 
Caimmore, xii. Aberdeen, 526, 1061, 1072 
Caimmore, xiii. Banff, 206 
Cairnmore, x. Perth, 675 
Cairnmounteam, xi. Kincardine, 237 
Cairnmuir house, x. Perth, 129 
Caimnacumhue, xii. Aberdeen, 050 
Caimocay hills, xiii Banff, 123 
Cairno*mount hills, xi Kincardine, 24, 

231 
Caimorie school, xii Aberdeen, 974 
Caimpapple hill,ii Linlithgow, 35, 150 
Caimpat hill, iv. Wigton, 130, 142 
Caimryan village, iv. Wigton, 92 
Cairns castle, i Edinbuigh, 370 
Cairns plantations, vi lianark, 437 
Caimsilioch, vi Lanark, 734 
Caimsmuir hill, v. Ayr, 309, iv. Kirk- 

cudbri^t, 118, 274,314— house, 134 
Caimtiible hill, v. Ayr, 148, vi. Lanark, 

478, 479, 498, 953 
Caimtaggart hill, xii. Aberdeen, 773 
Caimton property, xi. Kincardine, 325— 

remains at, 335 
CaimtouU hill, xii Aberdeen, 647 
Cairnty plantations, xiii Banff, 368 
Caimwilliam hill, xii Aberdeen, 459, 486 
Cairn WoehiU, x. Perth, 328 
Caimyaran, iv. Wigton, 86 
Cairston, improvements at, xv. Orkney, 

35 — bum, 47 
Caistal a Brebider, xiv. Inverness, 188 
Caistal Bhuirdh, xiv. Inverness, 188 
Caistal Eilen, xiv. Inverness, 188 
Caistal Fionlach, xiii. Nairn, 1 
Caistal Uistein, xiv. Inverness, 258 
Caitha village, i Edinburgh, 422 
Caithness Agricultural Association, xv. 

Caithness, 171 
Caithness-shire, observations on, xv..Caith- 

ness, 178 
Caitloch, lead mine at, iv. Dumfiiee, 334 
Caitnish falls, vii. Aigyle, 89 
Cakemoor house, &c. i. Edinburgh, 192, 

193 
Calair water, x. Perth, 346 
Calart hill, xiii Elgin, 140 
Calcamie quarry, ix. Kinross, 5 
Calcots school, xiii Elgin, 32 
Calda house, xv. Sutherland, 111 
Calder, see Cawdor 



Calder loch and castle, xv. Caithness, 69, 

72 
Calder house and wood, i. Edinburgh, 

357, 361, 371 
Calder. East, village, i Edinburgh, 435, 

445 
Calder, Mid, parish, i Edinburgh, 356— 

village, 357, 375 
Calder, West, parish, i Edinburgh, 304 — 

viUage, 307, 308 
Calder water, xiv. Inverness, 65 
Calder Braichlich property, xiv. Inverness, 

388 
Calder glen, vi. Lanark, 887 — ironworks, 

collieries, &c. 160, 243, 636, 644, 648, 

658 
Calder or Rotten Calder water, vi Lanark, 

242, 315, 416, 419, 443, 444, 445, 789, 

879, 944 
Calder water. North, vi Lanark, 642, 766, 

771,944 
Calder water. South, vi. Lanark, 608, 766, 

771, 948 
Calder water, vu, Renfrew, 82, 538 
Calderbauk house, vi. Lanark, 319 
Calderbraes, ironstone at, vi Lanark, 775 
Caldergrove house, vi. Lsmark, 431 
Calderhall house, i Edinburgh, 442 
Calderhaugh candleworks, vii Renfrew, 

103 
Calders goe, xv. Caithness, 1 1 8 
Calderside colliery, vi Lanark, 316 
Calderwood, spring at, vi. Lanark, 316 — 

house, 879, 892 
Caldhame &ctories, xi. Kincardine, 302» 

303, 305 
Caldra house, &c. ii Berwick, 225, 227 
Caldron linn, the, x. Perth, 581, 1018 
Caldronlee limeworks, iv, Dumfries, 277, 

284 
Caldstane slap, the, i Edinburgh, 357, iii 

Peebles, 162 
Caldwell house, &c. v. Ayr, 289, 576, 584, 

vii Renfrew, 322 
Caledonian canal, xiv. Inverness, 9, 25^ 

54,60,118,119,122,124,504 
Caledonian forest, xii Aberdeen, 1052 
Caledonian hunt, v. Ayr, 47 
Calf sound, xv. Orkney, 158 
Calf of Eday isle, xv, Orkney, 158 
Calgarry castle, vii. Argyle, 342 
Callader loch, xii. Aberdeen, 648 
Callander, parish of, x. Perth, 349 — castle, 

355— craig, 350, 351— vUlage, 354, 357 
-house, viii Stirling, 5, 7, 11, 12 
Callaw hope, iii. Roxburgh, 191 
Callends bum, iii. Peebles, 141— hill, 137 
Calleroish, remains at, xiv. Ross, 153 — 

school, 153, 155 
Callievar hill, xii Aberdeen, 440, 486, 487 
Callirni'b hill, x. Perth, 489 
Cally house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 297 
Calrossie house, xiv. Ross, 54 
Calton hill, i Edinburgh, 616, 617, 654 



XXVIU 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Calva loch, xv. Sutherland, 120 

Calve isle, vii. Aigyle, 354 

Cam loch, xv. Sutherland, 107 

Cambie water, ix. Fife, 112 

Cambus village, viii. Clackmannan, 42, 

44— distillery, 49 
Cambusbaron village, vi\i. Stirling, 333— 

remains at, 322, 323 
Cambuacurry hill, xiv. Roes, 434-- bay, 

435 
Cambuskenneth abbey, viii. Stirling, 423 
Cambuskethan mill, v. Ayr, 549, 550 
Cambualang parish, vi Lanark, 41 6 — col- 
lieries, 420 
Cambusmichael, see St Martinli 
Cambusmore house, x. Perth, 352 
Cambusnaglass bay, viii. Dnnbarton, 95 
Cambusnethan parish, vi. Lanark, 608 — 
property, 6 1 3--hou8e,6 1 5 — priory, 957 
Cambustane hill, xi Forfiur, 488 
Cambus Wallace house, vi. Lanark, 364 
Camelon village, viii. Stirling, 4, 18, 23 — 

remains at, 1 1 
Cameron property, viii. Dunbarton, 159 
Cameron parish, ix. Fife, 304 
Cameron hill, coal at, vi. Lanark, 881 
Cameron, cairn at, viii. Stirling, 106 
Cameron bridge distillery, ix. Fife, 677 
Camfield, the, xii. Aberdeen, 463 
Camiestane, battle of, xii. Aberdeen, 659 
Camieston plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 108 
Camilla house, loch, and wftter, ix. Fife, 

148, 250 
Camisendun bay, xv. Sutherland, 87 
Camis Eskan property, &c. viii. Dunbar- 

ton, 84, 87, 90 
Camistinavaig bay, xiv. Inverness, 219 
Camlachie bum, vi. Lanark, 102 
Camlarg colliery, v. Ayr, 312 
Cammachmore property, &c. xi. Kincar- 
dine, 245, 260 
Cammaloun quarry, xii. Aberdeen, 317 
Cammo house, i. Edinburgh, 597 
Cammusmore bay, xiv. Inverness, 240 
Camp Ochiltree, v. Ayr, 105 
Camp castle, Aberlemno, xi. For&r, 632 
Camp castle, Craigie, v. Ayr, 765 
Camp castle, Hoberton, iii. Roxburgh, 91 
Camp castle Turin, xi. Forfar, 606 
Camp &rm, the, vi. Lanark, 651 
Camp hill, Cathcart, \ii. Renfrew, 502 
Camp hill, Dabry, v. Ayr, 220 
Camp hill, Lumphanan, xiL Aberdeen, 

1088 
Camp hill, Yetholm, iii. Roxbiu^, 163 
Camphouse, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 266 
Camp Know, Blantyre, vi. Lanark, 321 
Campmuir, Kettins, xi. Forfiwr, 643 
Camp muir, Langton, ii. Berwick, 238 
Camp's back hiU, ix. Fife, 690, 697, 705 
Camps head, spring at, vi. Lanark, 329 
Camp stone,- Kilmadock, x. Perth, 1231 
Camptown head, remainH at, ii. Had- 
dington, 50 
Camptown, Jedburgh, iii. Roxbui^gh, 12 



Campbell castle, viii. Clackmannan^ 78y 

103 
CampbeU'a cairns, xiii Elgin, 68 
Campbelton parish, vlL Argyle, 453 — 

bay, 455— town, 464 
Campbelton bay, xiv. Inverness, 462^— 

viUage, 377, 465, 476 
Campend of Newton, L Edinburgh, 569 
Camperdown house, &c xi. For&r, 576, 

577 
Campie, see Campsie 
Cample bum, iv. Dumfries, 78, 91, 93 
Campsaik bay, viii. Dunbarton, 110—- 

house, &c. 113, 123— village, 126 
Campsey linn, x. Perth, 1168 
Campsie paridi of, viii. Stirling, 234 
Campsie alum works, vi. Lanark, 166, 

viii. Stirling, 256 
Campsie glens, viii Stirling, 235 
Campsie hills, viii. Dunbarton, 36, 70, 74, 

vi. Lanaric, 105, 721, viii. Stirling, 38, 

60, 234, 235, 239 
Camsemy &lls, x. Perth, 759 
Camster nill, xv. Caithness, 119 
Camstraddan bay, viii Dunbarton, 158— 

house, 233— quarry, 164, 236 
Camus stone, the, L Edinburgh, 119 
Camus nagaul, bay, xiv. Invemen, 1 1& 
Camustane hill, &c xL Forfiu-, 486 
Camuston, tradition regarding, xi. Kincai^ 

dine, 282 
Cauda craig house, xii. Aberdeen, 546 
Cander water, vi Lanark, 469, 470, 720, 

721 
Canderside colliery, vi. Lanark, 723 
Candle moss, viii. Stirling, 275 
Candlestick cave, xiv. Inverness, 325 
Candren well, vii Renfrew, 147 
Candy bum, vi. Lanark, 356, 848 
Candvbank, camp at, vi. Lanark, 362 
Canisbay parish, xv. Caithness, 21— house, 

27 
Canna isle, xiv. Inverness, 145, 149, 150 

— house, 152 
Cannachy bridge inn, xi Forfar, 624 
Cannar water, vi. Lanark, 31 
Cannich glen and water, xiv. Inverness, 

363, 487 
Cannisb hill, xv. Sutherland, 105 
Cannon loch, xii. Aberdeen, 775 
Canny water, xi Kincardine, 325 
Canongate, the, i Edinburgh, 661 -.- 

church, 663 — tolbooth, 730 — work- 
house, 746 
Canonbie parish, iv. Dumfries, 483 
Canterland quarry, xi. Kincardine, 284 
Cantlay hill, xi. Kincardine, 250 
Cantly farm, xiii. Banff, 217 
Cantray house and property, xiv. Inver^ 

ness, 453, 456 — fossil remains at, 38Q 
Cant's kirk, xii Aberdeen, 397 
Canty bay, ii. Haddington, 318 
Caol loch, vii Argyle, 302 
Caolas Uist, the, xiv. Inverness, 155 
Caolchum castle, vii. Argyle, 86, 87 



GENERAL INDEX. 



XXIX 



Caolisport loch, vii. Argyle, 257, 259 

Cape house, xiii. Banff, 133 

Capehope water, iii. Roxburgh, 189, 191 

Capel fell, iii Selkirk, 60 

Capelochj castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 976 

Capenoch hill, iv. Dumfries, 460 — house, 

&c. 466, 467 
Cape Wrath lighthouse, &c. xy. Suther- 
land, 84, 85, 86, 94 
Caplerig house, vii. Renfrew, 521 
Caplet hill, vii. Renfrew, 137 
Capolm water, iii. Peebles, 80 
Capon tree, iii Roxburgh, 5 
Capon craig gaw, v. Ayr, 437, 442 
Cappel hill, xi. Forfar, 451 
Cappuck, remains found at, iii Rox- 
burgh, 261 
Caprington collieries, v. Ayr, 606— caatle, 

609 
Captain head, ii. Haddington, 50 
Captain \s cairn, vi Lanark, 485 
Capul mount, xi. Forfar, 191 
Caputh parish, x. Perth, 670— village, 677 
Cara isle, viL Argyle, 379, 395 
Caracrom stone, xiv. Inverness, 169 
Carald^s stone, xi. Forfetr, 518 
Carberry hill, i. Edinburgh, 267— house, 

278 
Carberry, remains at, ix. Fife, 134 
Carbeth house, viii Stirling, 66, 82 — 

loch, 73 
Carbeth Guthrie, viii. Stirling, 72— house, 

82 
Carbrook house, viii. Stirling, 382 
Carbuddo district, xi. Forfiir, 469— camp 

at, 236— house, 470 
Cardan's well, ix. Fife, 40 
Cardean, remains at, &c. ix. Fife, 673, 

679 
Carden den, ix. Fife, 167 
Carderroch property, vi. Lanark, 405 
Cardon hill, iii. Peebles, 79 
Cardonald house, vii. Renfrew, 195 
Cardonncas castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 378 

—house, 382 
Cardrona house and property, iiL Peebles, 

42,44 
Cardross parish, viii. Dunbarton, 83 
Cardross house, x. Perth, 1108 
Cardroes plantations, viii. Stirling, 266 
Careston parish, xi. For&r, 5]8--bridge, 

202— castle, 527, 532 
Carfin collieries, vi Lanark, 774— house, 

784 
Carfrae, camp at, ii Haddington, 96 
Cargen house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 225— 

water, 224, 234,287 
Cargen holm house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
CargiU parish, x. Perth, 1 167 
Carinish chapel, xiv. Inverness, 169, 178, 

179 
Carity water, xi Forfer, 160, 165 
Carlaverock, rocks at, ii. Haddington, 283 
Carleith, remains at, viii. Dunbaurton, 20 
Carlenrig churchyard, iv. Dumfries^ 421 



Carleton bay, v. Ayr, 395— castle, 529 

Carleton house, ix. Fife, 326 

Carline^s cairn hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 274 

Carlin Kist stone, xiii Banff, 161 

Carlin Tooth, iii. Roxburgh, 2 

Carlinwark house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 161 
—loch, 147 

Carlogie house, xii Aberdeen, 1056 

Carlops collieries, &c. iii Peebles, 155--* 
village, 158, 162 

Carlowrie gardens, i Edinburgh, 136 

Carloway fort, xiv. Ross, 153, 163— dis- 
trict, 167 

Carlows linn, iii. Peebles, 59 

Carlsruth point, iv. Wigton, 24 

Carlton fell, iv. Wigton, 38 

Carluke parish, vi Lanark, 563 — col- 
lieries, 590 — orchards, 589 — village, 
587, 591 

Carlung property, v, Ayr, 255 

Carlv hiU, iii. Iloxburgh, 441^-camp ou, 
443 

Carmacoup property, vi Lanark, 487 

Carman hill, viii Dunbarton, 84 

Carmel water, V. Ayr, 541, 769 

Carmelite church, Queensferry, ii. Lin- 
lithgow, 6 

Carmelite convent, Jedburgh, iii Rox- 
burgh, 10 

Carmelite convent, Linlithgow, ii Lin* 
lithgow, 175 

Carmelite monastery, Bantf, xiii Banfi^ 
326 

Carmelite monastery, Dunbar, ii. Had- 
dington, 79 

Carmelite monastery, Edinburgh, i Edin- 
burgh, 658 

Carmelite monastery, Fullarton, v. Ayr, 

67« 

Carmelite monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 64 

Carmichael parish, vi Lanark, 517 — 

foundery, 631— hiU, 518, 520— house, 

522, 526 

Carmount hill and moor, xi. Kincardine, 

212,213,217 
Carmunnock parish, vi. Lanark, 597-— 

viUage, ib. 605 
Carmyle ford, vi Lanark, 425 — village, 

652 
Carmylie parish, xi For&r, 350— hill, 

358— well, 352 
Cama isle, vii Argyle, 121, 165 
Camabattan looh, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Camac fort, x. Perth, 810 
Cam-armairee hUI, x. Perth, 529 
Cam-a*Mhadi cave, xv. Sutherland, 67 
Caman water, vii Aigyle, 479 
Cama na croiche, xiv. Ross, 271 
Cama nam Fiann, xiv. Ross, 271 
Camannock, cairn at, v. Ayr, 316 
Camassary castle, vii. Aigyle, 555 
Cambroe bridge, vi Lanark, 636 — col- 
lieries, 775 — ironworks, 647, 658 
Carndearg hill, x. Perth, 529 
Caraduif brae, v. Ayr, 734 



XXX 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Caradl hill, u. Fife, 690, 691*camp on, 

697 
Carnell well and chapel, v. Ayr, 655 
Carnlia loch, xt. Caithnen, 123 
Carnliath hill, x. Perth, 559 
Carnmacheeaog cairn, viii Dunbarton, 

161 
Cam na caillich, viL Aigyle, 170 
Camnamgabhar hill, x. Perth, 559 
Camock parish, ix. Fife, 690— house, 706 

—quarries, 693— tower and cross, 705 

—village, 692, 706, 710 
Camock house, vL Lanark, 773 
Camock castle, &c viii. Stirling, 314, 323 

—water, 62 
Camousie house, xiiL Banff, 88 
Carnoustie, battle at, xL Foifiir, 631— 

camp at, 660— village and quoad 9<iera 

parish, 660, 661 
Camsalloch house, &c iv. Dumfries, 55, 

56,57 
Cam Torkie hill, x. Perth, 559 
Camwath parish, vi. Lanark, 76 — bum 

and house, t5^— moor, 3 — village, 76, 

88 
Caroline Park house, L Edinburgh, 596 
Carolside hills, ii. Berwick, 19 — house, 21 
Carphin quany, ix. Fife, 651 
Carpow, remains at, x. Perth, 851 
Carquhannan castle, x. Perth, 221 
Carr bridge, xiii Elgin, 1 34 
Carr rock, the, ix. Fife, 943 
Carradale valley, v. Bute, 1 2 
Carradale water, vii. Aigyle, 438 
Carraig rock, vii. Argyle, 232 
Carre house, iii. Roxbui^gh, 39 
Carriage hili, remains at, iii Roxburgh, 

433 
Carrick castle, vii. Argyle, 705 
Carrick district, v. Ayr, 310, 348, 381, 

415, 781— fermers* society, 372, 387 

—hill, 2, 6 
Carrick house, viii Dunbarton, 113 
Canick house, xv. Orkney, 158 
Carrickstone, viii. Dunbarton, 141 
Carriden parish, ii Linlithgow, 54 — ^bum, 

57— house, 60, 68— Roman wall at, 65 
Carrikendigh, the, xv. Sutherland, 191 
Carrington, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 611 
Carrity water, xi Forfar, 612 
Carrol rock, xv. Sutherland, 149 
Carron bog, viii Stirling, 45, 307 
Carron daugh, xiii Banff, 112— hill, 110, 

Carron flats, viii Stirling, 26 

Carron ironworks, vi Lanark, 243, viii 

Stirling, 23, 342, 353, 367, 373 
Carron water, iv. Dumfries, 91, 92, 323 
Carron water, xi Kincardine, 166, 212, 

214, 216, 244, 245 
Carron water, xiv. Ross, 107, 109, 420 
. Carron water, viii Stirling, 1, 2, 8, 39, 
ii5, iJ6, 118, 139, 145,304,340,342, 
343 
Coironbridge village, iv.Dumfide^ 91 



Carrongrove paper mills, viii. Stirling, 127 
Carronhall collieries, viii. Stirling, 845— 

house, &c 292, 340, 344, 347 
Carronshore village, viii Stirling, 3, 203, 

342, 375 
Carrot hill, xi. Forfer, 335 
Carroy loch, xiv. Invemess, 323, 326 
Carmbber quarry, ii Linlithgow, 179 
Carmbber castle, viii Stirling, 207 
Carmchan house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
Carmth house, vii Renfrew, 58 
Carmthers, annexed parish of, iv. Dum- 
fries, 364 
Carry Blair obelisk, xiv. Ross, 448 
Carryyarrac hill, xiv. Inverness, 424 
Carse bay, iv. Kirkcudbright, 235^ — camp 

at, 20 
Carse hill, xi Forfer, 597 — house, 608 
Carse of Clackmannan, viii. Clackmannan, 

121 
Carse of Falkirk, viii SUrling, 191, 201 
Carse of Oowric, xi For&r, 572, x. Perth, 

368, 378, 405, 414, 1163— Agricultural 

Association, 417 
Carse of Henzie hunt, xv. Orkney, 141 
Carse of Kinneil, ii Linlithgow, 147 
Carsebridge colliery, viii CUickmannan, 

22, 25, 28— distillery, 26, 49 
Carsecreuch castle, iv. Wigton, 69 
Carse Oownie house, xi Feifer, 626, 628, 

630 
Carse Grange village, x. Perth, 395 
Carscallan, coal at, vi Lanark, 258 
Carshope, iii Roxburgh, 255 
Carskey bay, vii Argyle, 414— house, 430 
Caralogie house, ix. Fife, 7 
Carsmoss, remains found at, iv. Dumfries, 

70 
Carsphaim pass, v. Ayr, 309 
Carsphaim parish, iv. Kirkcudbright, 273 
Carstairs parish, vi Lanark, 547 — castle, 

106 — ^house, 548, 551, 957 — property, 

552— village, 560 
Cart bum, xiii Elgin, 196 
Cart river, vi Lanark, 598, vii Renfrew, 

2,57,114,496,497,538 
Carter fell, iii Roxburgh, 1, 3, 103, 253 
Carthusian monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 64 
Cartlane craigs, vi Lanark, 2, 4, 944— 

bridge, 24 — moor, 8 — village, 24 
Cartlebum, limestone at, v. Ayr, 814 
Cartnavel collieries, Ac. vi. Lanark, 67 1 , 

672 
Cartsbum house, vu. Renfrew, 412 
Cartsdyke village and quoad Mcra parish, 

vii Renfrew, 413, 456 
Carty harbour, iv. Wigton, 169, 187, 2*20 
Carvy water, xii Aberdeen, 530 
Carvock village, xii. Aberdeen, 725 
Carwood property, vi Lanark, 357— re- 
mains at, 363— house, 364— burn, 367 
Carychvilly farm, xiv. Inverness, 504 
Carafield plantations, iv. Dunifnei', 55 
C\M^Qi^<£ \a^j\«t\N,\v. Dvimfries, 327 



GBMBBAL IBDEZ. 



XXXI 



Cuscncarrie houw, iv. Kiikcuil bright, 336 
Caaail dubh inn, XT. Sutherland, b'A 
Cusaitia hotue, v. Ayr, 275, 4!J7 
Cauilii Dowowia hillii, v. Ayr, 496 
Csmiagra)' collaorie», ix. Fifr, BIS 
CoMlej water, liv. Ron, 40.t, xv, Su- 

ihcftoiid, 17,315 
Caaock, embamkineat at, iv. Dumfliw, 

409 
Cutle of Di^A vii. Argyk, 76 
Cartle of Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 65l 
Cutle of Kirkurd, iiL Peeblie, 1 '23 
CuUe «f Perth, i. Perth, 68 
Cutle of the Qubw, vi. LBoark, 1 3 
Catfle of Toibel, ii. Haddington, 204 
Cutle Cunpbeil, viii. Claekmaniuui, 78, 

103— glen, 92 
Culle Cluirird, jv. Wigton, 200, 20S 
Cutle Clugg}', X. Perth, 740 
Cutle Coeffin, lii. Argylc. 241 
Caitle Cole, iv. Sutherland, iS4 
Cattle Craig, liv. Rosa, 45 
Cattle Craignish, vil Argyle, 54 
Cattle Dangeroua, vi. Lojinrk, 4B1 



o Hon 



;. KoBB. 1 



Caitle Douglai, town ijt, iv. Kirkeud- 

bright, 167 
Cattle Domuiu, t. Ajr, 496 
Caitie Foil;, xii. Abenleen, 819 
Cattle Farbe*, lii. Aberdeen, 949 
Cutle OilmouT iimeworka, iv. Diunftici, 

S04 
Cutle Qimigoe, xt. Caitlinen, 119, 134, 

139 
Cutle Olocmi, viii. Clackmnimnn, 103 
Castle Grant, xiii. Banff, »l"J 
Cattle Qiant, liv. lavemeM^ 434, 437, 

438 
Cutle Hayne, iv. KiAcudbrighl, 34 
Cattle Huntly, s. Perth, 409 
Cattle Kennedy, iv. Wigtoii, 83, 88— 

loch, BO, B2 
Custte Knap. li. Forhr, 325 
CoBtlp Lcathen, xiv. Inremess, 15 
Ciutle Leod, lii. Rcaa, 250, 256 
Cattle Linglaw, iv. Caithnen, 1 3B 
Cutle Lyon, ii. Linlithgow, 1»a 
Castle Lyon hotue, x. Perth, 409 
Coatle Meamsig, vii. Argyle, 24l 
Cutle Menoes, x. Perth, 705, 706, 709 
Cattle Noicne, xi. Forfv, 476 
Cattle O'er, iv. Dum&iea, 401 
Cattle RAiny, xii. Aberdeen, 9S1 
CasileKinple houH, -vii. Renfrew, 76, 77, 

81— loth, 75, 81— perf, 76— propertT, 

88,99 
Cattle Shtina, vii. Argjle, 241 
Castle Sinclair, xr. Caithnen, 119, 141 
Cutle Sommerville, vi. Lanark, 84 
Castle Spiritin, xiv. Invemfes, 14 
Cattle Stewart, iv. Wigton, 177— boote, 

41— loeb, tt. 
Cutle Stuart, xiv. Invemen, 382, S91 
Cattle Swen, vii. Argyle, 261, 636 
Cattle Toward b«%m, TJi. Atgy]», 609 



Cattle Tower, til Renftcw, 96 
Cattle Tyrom, va Argyle, 147 
Cattle Vsnicb, iv. Sutherland 175 — 

head, 166. 170 
Cattle WalUna, vi. Lanark, 582 
Casttebay, >.iv. Iiivmie^, -JOO 
Castie bay, iv. Wipon, 1 a-> 
Cattjecary cattle and bouse, TiiL Duo- 
barton, 138— camp, 141- ' 

137— tower, Stirling, 12 
CattJeciaig of Dunakeiilh, xiv. Rosa, 26 
Cattlerraig of Kirkonl hoiue, iiL Peeblei^ 

127, 129 
Cattlecraig of TiUicoultry, fort on. TiiL 

Clackmannan, 71 
Catttecmig of Wett Colder, camp on, L 

Edinburgh, 30G 
Castlecrofta of Dahnellington, T. Ayr,S16 
Castledykea, remains at, It. Dumfiiea, 10 
Cattledykea, Koman mad at, vL Imttlirk, 

554 
CattlelUm water, iv. Dumtrii^a, 331 
CastldiaTen,niingoftowerBt,ii. Fife.947 
Cattlehill of Abeinethy, x. Perth, 851 
Cattlehill of Ardneill, t. Ayr, 257 
CasllehiU of Ardroaun, t. Ayr, 194 
Cattlehill of Ayr house, v. Ayr, 4, 16 
CastiehiU of BanS; liiL Banff, 31 
Cattlehill of Biraia, xiiL Elgm, St 
CsatlehiU of Boath, liii. Nairn, 13 
CastiehiU o£ Boydstoo, v. Ayr. 257 
Castlehill of CardrosB, viiL Dunbarton,87 
CastldiillofCBrgilI.li. Perth, 11611 
CattlehiU of Carluke, vL Lanark, 581- 

collieries and ironworks, 567, 570, 59B, 

591 
Caitlehill of Chinie, x. Perth, 1024 
Caitlehill of Crimond, xii. Aberdeen, 708 
Cattlehill of Cullen, xiii. Banff, 3->-i 
CastiehiU of Culrosg, i. Perth, 600 
CastiehiU of Cupar, ii. Fife, 3 
CastiehiU of Dulserf, vL Lanark. 734 
Cattlehill of Durris, xi. Kincardine, 173 
CastiehiU of Edinburgh, i, EdinburRh. 616 
CastiehiU of Forgnndennr, x. Perth, 963 
CastiehiU of Forrea.xiiL'Klgin. 162 
CastiehiU of Olenhesd, v. Avr, 2.',7 
CastiehiU of Hamilton, vi. Unarh. 2.15 
CattlebiUrflnchture.x. Perth. 11.12 
CastiehiU of InTemea, IJT. InTemeas. 16, 

17 
CutlehiU of Kilbride, v. Ayr, 257 
CastiehiU of KiU>ride, vL Lanark, 890 
CastiehiU of Kilpatrick, viiL DunbarUm, 

37, 38, 47 
Cattlehill of Kintore, xii. Aberdeen, 6S9 
CastiehiU of Lanark, tL Lanark, 10, 13 
CastiehiU of Largs, t. Ayr, BOO 
CattlduU of Lochmaben, it. Dumftiea, 

383 



XXXll 



aSHBBAL INDBZ. 



CtuUehill of Ranfr«ir, vii. Ranfrew, 13 
CMtlehiUof St Feisu&,iU. Aberdeen, 1S6 

CaaUriiiU at St Siniam, -viii. Stirliug, 322 
CscttdiiU of Slniiunnn, viii. StiiUng, 374 
CtutlehiU of Senniill, v. Ayr, 257, 2SB 
CaatUhill of StevenEton, *. Ayr, 4'^, 4fiS 
CoUlehill of Stirling, TiiL Stirling. 391, M7 
CaUlehill of Stiacban, xL Kincardine, 236 
CutlefaiU of Symington, v>. l.iiiiwk. ;<U'2, 

867. 869 
Cutlehitl of TundragBitli, iv. Dumftio, 

19B 
Caitlehill of Wectarkirk craigs. iT. Dam- 

tn«,4l)0 
C&atle houae of Dalmelliogton, T. Ayr, 

31G 
Cutle home of Dunoon, <ii. Argyle, 607, 

610 
CeMle inn, iL Berwick, 43 
Cattle iile, »•■ Iniemen, 145 
Ca^e ule, ii. Kinnma, S 
Caitlalair iif'CulJjlrtumlioiue.u. Berwick, 

206 
CaitleUw of Olencraa, camp on, i. Gdio- 



227 
Caitl«l(iw of Yetholm, camp at, iiL Roi- 

buivii, 163 
Cattteloch of Lochmaben, !v. Dumfriea, 

377 379,360 
CHKtIcniilk, imcicnt pariah of, iv. Dumfriea, 

203— hoiu«, 'JOJ.^I 
Castleinilk liouse. vi. Lonnrk, 601, 968— 

ironBtone ut, S9il — remains at, 601 
Caatlepoint of Ituneneath, liii.Dunbaiton, 

10$ 
CasUenuikine bum, nii. Stirling, 117 — 

ironworfc«,n9, 126 
Castle rock of Dunbarton, Tiii. Dunbar- 

ton, 1 
Caatle*, fort at, til Argyle, 97— csve at, 

315 
Cttitleshop of Morham, iL Haddington, 

263 
Castleude of Aahkirk, iiL Ro\burg1i, ^T-l 
Culle8tripebum,ruina jit. \iii. Itanlf. 34 
Caatletoun. pariali of, iiL Roxburgh, 4*0 — 

Tillage, 446, 462 
Caatleton of Avoch hill, liv. Ron, 384, 

390 
Castteton of Boithwick village, L Edin- 

bui^h, 184 
Caatleton of Brsemar village, xiL Aber- 
deen, 650, 652 
Outleton of Fardoun bouse, xi. KiDca^ 

dine, 78, 88— remtuiu at, 83. 86 
Caatleton of Kincardine, iL Kincardine, 

25 
CaUlelon of Muckart houae, x. Perth, 

30S 

Castlelon of Olrick villBge, it. Cuiiiit«*B, 

62 
Caatleiram, camp at, »u. Retift^w, M 



Caatlenwry, iii. Roxbursl 



Caatie-igg haae, iv 

mMns at. 41 
Castragoi- harbour, 11 


Wigton, 66-re- 


. Orkney, 150 


Cnitrammon moat, it 


Kirkcodbri^l,298 


Cat castle, vL Lanark 


471 


Cntoeol csim. V. Bute, 54 


4^'ntan-s seat hill. V. B 


ute.83,84 


C»tbum cullieries, vL 


Lanark, 77& 


Cntcli a penny, tm 


lition r«g«rdinc il. 


llerwick, 139 




Calcra^,f<Mli«oiuil 





71 

Cati'raiK colliery, li. I^nark, 590 

Catcroigg, the, v. Ayr, 247 

Catcune castle, i. Edinburgh, 162, 17S 

Catcune mills, viilaee, i, Bdinbui^h, 185 

Catelig rock, IT. Wigton, 131 

Cateloch bridge quarry, ir. Dumfriea, 467 

Catcrthun hill, li. Kincardine, 24, For- 

fai, 6t>4— remnina on, 657 
Calevcnnan rock, iv. \\'iglon, 131 
Catlirth <oe. xi. Shetland, 53 
Cnlheart parish, vii. Kenfreir, 495^^»stle, 

504— village, 496, 605 
Calliedral, Dunkeld, t Perth. 976 
Cuthedtal, Elgin, liiL Elgin, 6 
Ctitht'dral, Glo^w. vL Lanark, 608 
Cixlliedml, Roaemarkie, liv. Ross, 351 
Cathedral, St Alagnui'. xr. Orkney, 3 
Cntheriae, locb, x. Perth, 350 
Cathiu loch, xi, Foi^, 326 
Calhkin bills, TU Lanark, 420, 597— pro* 

pcrty, 60U — remains iit, 601 — riains at, 

601 
Cathlaw collieries, iL Linlitbgow, 37, 52 

—house, 38 
Catlawhill, li. Forfar, 159,611, 613, 61. S 
Catlie bum, iiL Roxburgli, 210 
Catrait, the, iii. Roxburgh. 433 
Catrine bcloriea, vL Lanark, 1 48, v. Ayr, 

137. 140— village, 136, 143 
Catrine bank houst.v. A IT, 32 
Cat's atone, i. Edinburgh, 138 
Cat> brook, xv. Caithneas, 69 
Cat'a cairn, xiv. Roa^ 354 
Cal«.Tnl^^ .|uiirrv, liii. StirUng,324, 530 
Catslocknow spring, iiL Selkirk, 33 — hilt 

(;at's Nick, the, i. Edinburgh, 61 9 
Caltcr houae. viii. Dunbarton, 215 
Cutterlino village, iL Kincardine, 317, 

318 
Callennilly catDp, xi. Totfiw-, 579 
I'atlrino loch, i. Perth, 350 
CauldchapeL camp at, vL Lanark, 617 
(.'nuldcleugh hill, iiL Roxburgh, 427 
(.'uuldrun linn, viii. StirUng, 176 
Cauldron loch, iv. Dumfries, 452 
Cuuldshiels loch. iii. Selkirk, 14 
<.'auniav collierica, iL Linliihgov, 123 
Cnusen liiDs. liiL Elgin, 146,149,153— 

iilla«e, 49 
Cau»iF"ol,'ft™ii«a-TO»iiLU'. Ayr, 278 



GENERAL INDEX. 



XXXUl 



Causeway hill, ii. Linlithgow, 76 
Causewayfoot Tillage, ii. Linlithgow, 72 
Causewayhead collieries, &c. viii. Stirling, 

219,223— viUage, 231 
Cauvin'8 hospital, i. Edinburgh, 390, 395 
Cava isle, xv. Orkney, 15 
Cavens castle and house, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 238 
Caverhill, tower on, iii. Peebles, 116 
Cavers parish, iil Roxburgh, 425 
Cavers Carr house, iii. Roxburgh, 39 
Caverton edge hill, iii. Roxburgh, 220, 

222 — remains on, 227— village, 232 
Cawdor parish, xiii. Nairn, 19 — bum, 21 

— castle, ib. — ^remains at, 12 
Cawessor bleachiield, viii. Dunbarton, 245 
Cawpla bum, vii. Renfrew, 316^och, 

308, 316 
Cayn loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Ceannabinn hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 
Ceannacoil castle, xii. Aberdeen, 1059 
Ceannamhara hill, vii. Ai^le, 196 
Ccannard loch, x. Perth, 756 
Ceannard strath and water, xiv. Ross, 74 
Ceanngarbh head, v. Bute, 83 
Ceannloch bum, xiv. Ross, 152 
Ceannlochhuchart church, xiv. Ross, 238 
Ceannrigh hill, xiv. Ross, 305 
Ceathramhgarbh district, xv. Sutherland, 

119 
Ceesford moor, iii. Roxburgh, 222 — vil- 
lage, 232 
Cellardykes town, ix. Fife, 295, 299, 975, 

977, 980 
Ceres parish, ix. Fife, 517 — village, 523, 

528— bum, 518 
Cessford castle, iii. Roxburgh, 146, 224 — 

bum, &c. 226 
Cessnock water, v. Ajnr, 179, 606— iron 

company, 835 
Ceumnacallich hill, v. Bute, 3 
ChaiUiach hill, x. Perth, 1077 
Chaistal isle, xiv. Inverness, 145 
Chalmers^ hospital, xiii. BaniF, 56 
Chalmers^ hospital, Edinburgh, i. Edin- 
burgh, 726 
Chance inn, xi. For&r, 243 — village, ix. 

Fife, 517 
Chanlock hills, iv. Dumfries, 500 
Channelkirk parish, ii. Berwick, 88 
Chanonry point, xiv. Inverness, 382, 
Ross, 356— cathedral, 351— cross, 353 
— town, 15, 354 
Chapel of Bothwell collieries, vi. Lanark, 

775 
Chapel of Congalton, ii. Hadding^, 210 
Chapel of Oarioch, xii. Aberdeen, 560 
Chapel of Keillor village, xi. Forfiur, 560 
Chapel of Kelso, ruins at, iiL Roxbui^h, 

308 
Chapel of Lauder, plantations at, ii. Bei^ 

wick, 3 
Chapel of Lilliesleaf, tower at, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 25 
Chapel of Tjuron, church at, iv. Dum- 
ines, 474 

VOL,. XV. 



Chapel bum of Crawford, vi. Lanark, 331 
Chapel bum of Dalserf, chapel at, vl L&* 

nark, 733 
Chapel bum of Larbert, viii. Stirling, 342 
Chapel Couch, ruins at, viii Dunbiurton, 

49 
Chapelden, ruins at, xii. Aberdeen, 264 
Chapel Dermid, mins of, viiL Dunbarton, 

75 
Chapel Dockie, ruins of, xi. F<Mr&r, 542 
Chapeldonan, v. Ayr, 362 
Chapelfield of Kimmerghame, ii. Berwick, 

276 
Chapelfield of St Bathans, il Berwick, 109 
Chapelfield of Tork, xiv. Invemess, 519 
Chapel g}u*den of Wemyss, ix. Fife, 398 
Chapelgill hill, iiL Peebles, 79 
Chapel green of Kilsyth, remains at, viiL 
Stirling, 139 — collieries, 145— school, 
164 
Chapelhall village and ironworks, vi. La- 
nark, 243, 648, 793, 797 
Chapelhaugh of Penshiel, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 66 
Chapelhill of Culter, vi. Lanark, 345 
Chapelhill of Douglas, vi. Lanark, 494 
Chapelhill of Duncol, iv. Dumfries, 57 
Chapelhill of Dundonald, v. Ayr, 677 
Chapelhill of Kilpatrick, viii. Dunbarton, 

17,21 
Chapelhill of Kirkpatrick, iv. Dumfries, 

288 
Chapelhill of Logic, xiv. Ross, 53 
Chapelhill of Moneydie, x. Perth, 208 
Chapelhill of Muthill, x. Perth, 322 
Chapelhill of Roberton, iii. Roxburgh, 92 
Chapelhill of Rothes, xiii. Elgin, 233 
Chapelhill of Rothesay, v. Bute, 103 
Chapelhill of Tarbat, xiv. Ross, 460 
Chapelhill of Trinity Cask, x. Perth, 338 
Chapelhope, ruins at, iii. Selkirk, 68 
Chapelhouse of Cunmock, v. Ayr, 479. 

482 
Chapelhouse of Dunlop, v. Ayr, 294 
Chapelhouse of Meldram, xii Aberdeen, 

477 
Chapel Knap of Laurencekirk, xi. Kin- 
cardine, 129 
Chapel Know of Dalserf, vi Lanark, 733 
Chapel Know of Leitholm, ii. Berwick, 50 
Chapel Laroch, mins at, viiL Stirling, 106 
Chapelpark of Ayr, v. Ayr, 37 
Chapelpark of Ladykirk, ii. Berwick, 182 
Chapel Patrick, ruins of, iv. Wigton, 142 
Chapel Rone, vi. Lanark, 733 
Qiapelrossan bay, &c. iv. Wigton, 200^ 

201 , 

Chapel royal, Stirling, viiL Stirling, 404 
Chapelshade chapel, xL Forfar, 42 
Chapel*^ waas, the, iL Haddington, 211 
Chapelton of Cambuslang ullage, vi. La- 
nark, 431 
Chapelton of CumbenviwM^ x«caa«» «S<^ 

CViapeUon Q(5¥e^\«i«»» '^(to^iwVl ^^*^\^- 
caT^Tve, ^^Q 

c 



XXXIV 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Chapelton of Glasford village, vL Lanark, 

299 
Chapelton of Glenlivet, xiiL Banff, 140 
Chapelton of Inverkeillor, xi. Forfar, 241 
Chapelton of Kilmaichlie, ziii. Banff, 133 
Chapelton of Leslie, xil Aberdeen, 1022 
Chapelton of Mamoch, xiil Banff, 384 
Chapelton of Methlick, xii. Aberdeen, 972 
Chapelton of Rescobie, xi. Forfar, 607 
Chapelton of Stewarton, â–¼. Ayr, 740 
Chapelton of West Calder house, L Edin- 
burgh, 306 
Chapel well of Auchtergaven, x. Perth, 

436 
Chapel well of Coylton, v. A)t, 656 
Chapel well of Douglas, vL Lanark, 494 
Chapel well of Kinneff, xi Kincardine, 

312 
Chapel well of Kirkmichael, â–¼. Ayr, 496 
Chapel well of Methlick, xii. Aberdeen, 

972 
Chapel well of Orton, xiii. Elgin, 233 
Chapel well of RaithhDl, v. Ayr, 655 
Chapel well of Straloch xii. Aberdeen, 

1029 
Chappell, village of, vii. Renfrew, 330 
Charleston village, xii. Aberdeen, 1048 

1065 
Charleston harbour, limeworks, and vil- 
lage, ix. Fife, 824, 837, 838, 874, 896 
Charleston of Aberlour village, xiii. Banff, 

116 
Charleston of Glammiss village, xi. For- 
far, 347 
Charleston of Nigg village, xi Kincardine, 

204 
Charleston of Paisley village, vii. Ren- 
frew, 200 
Charlie's well, iv. Dumfries, 276 
Charlie's well, i Edinburgh, 153 
Charlie's well, xiv. Ross, 382 
Charlieshope, iii. lioxburgh 99 
Charlotte village, vii. Aigyle, 652, 655 
Charlton plantations, xi. Forfar, 274 
Chamac loch, xiv. Ross, 264 
Chaman loch, xiv. Inverness, 195 
Charterhall house, &c vi. Berwick, 225, 

227 
Charters or Southdean parish, iii Rox- 
burgh, 98 
Charters chest cave, xii.^ Aberdeen, 650 
Chartreshall distillery, vui. Stirling, 332 
Cheese bay, xiv. Inverness, 162 
Cheese well, iii Peebles, 38 
Cherrybank village, x. Perth, 86, 97 
Cherry trees valley, &.c. iii. Roxburgh, 161, 

164 
Chesterbank camp, ii. Berwick, 135 — 

house, &.C. 139 
Chesterdale camp, ii. Berwick, 135 
Chesterhail house, i. Edinburgh, 194 
ChesterhaU, ii. Haddington, 174 
Chesterhill, ix. Fife, 620 
Chesterhill village, i. Edinbvixgkv, \95 
'^besterleea, cmnp at, vi. Lanark, 57 



Chesterpark, xi. FoHteur, 559 
Chesters, camp at, ii Berwick, 225 
Chesters, camp at, ii Haddington, 274 
Chesters camp, iii. Peebles, 115, 129 
Chesters house, &c. iii. Roxburgh, 195, 

197, 245 
Cheviot hills, iii Roxburgh, 145, 159, 

188, 189, 208, 253,446, 4«9 
Cheyne's tower, xii. Aberdeen, 590 
Chicken head, xiv. Ross, 116, 118 
Chiers stone, xiv. Ross, 270 
Chingle fishery, xi. Kincardine, 199 
Chirmat hiU, i. Edinburgh, 160 
Chimside parish, ii Berwick, 124 
Chirsty's rock, vii. Argyle, 346 
Chisholm property, &c. xiv. Invemeas, 

367, 369 
Chisholm house, iii. Roxburgh, 90, 92 
ChUbrig mount, xv. Sutherluid, 48, 58, 

66, 149 
Choaric isle, xv. Sutherland, 86 
Chochan, Ben, x. Perth, 1150 
Choicelee camp, ii. Berwick, 238 
Choinzie hill, x. Perth, 725 
Chonan-nish, viii Stirling, 90 
Chorrh loch, xiv. Ross, 420 
Chrianeg hill, xiv. Ross, 158 
Christ's Kirk, suppressed parish, &c. of, 
xii. Aberdeen, 583, 747, SOO^hill, 748 
Chuimleith point, xiv. Invemesa, 240 
Cil Chuiman village, xiv. Inverness, 57 
Circus Place School, Edinburgh, i. Edin- 
burgh, 685 
Cirmor hill, v. Bute, 3 
Ciste craig an Earn, the, xiv. Inverness, 

98 
Cistertian convent, Edinburgh, i Edin- 
burgh, 657 
Citadel of Perth, x. Perth, 48 
Clach a charridh, the, xiv. Ross, 28 
Clach airidh, the, xiv. Ross, 343 
Clach a Mhearlich, the, xiv. Ross, 270 
Clachan blcachfield, viii. Stirling, 225 — 

glen, 239 
Clachan loch, xiv. Inverness, 515 
Clachan loch, xiii Nairn, 44 
Clachan sound, vii Argyle, 1 1— village, 

251 
Clachan of Balfron, xiii. Stirling, 288 
Clachan of Campsie village, viii. Stirling, 

235, 258 
Clachan of Dairy village, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 371 
Clachan of Farr vale, xv. Sutherland, 67 
Clachan of Kilmore quarries, v. Bute, 44, 

45 — remains at, 54 
Clachan of Luss, \iii. Dunbarton, 232 
Clachan of Penninghame, ruins at, iv. 

Wigton, 176 
Clachan of Roseneath, viii Dunbarton, 
104 — glen and house, 109 — village, 126 
Clach-an-aban, xiv. Inverness, 393 
Clachan lleugh head, iv. Wigton, 103 



OEKSRAI INDEX. 



XXXV 



Clachantiompan, xiv, Rosb, 254 
Clachan Trukhial, xiv. Rosb, 145, 146 
Clachary hoiise, iv. Wigton, 176 
Clach Dearg, x. Perth, 584 
Clachdhian, xiii. Banff, 298 
Clach lands, ruins at, v. Bute, 24 
Clach Macmeas stone, xt. Sutherland, 

191 
Clach Mhic Allan stone, xiii. Elgin, 140 
Clach Mhor a chi, xiv. Inverness, 169 
Clachnabane hill, xi. Kincardine, 232 
Clachnabrath, remains of, vii. Aigyle, 337 
Clachnacluair, xiv. Ross, 332 
Clachnacudden, the, xiv. Inverness, 16 
Clachnadruid, the, vii. Renfrew, 367 
Clach na h'annait, the, xiv. Inverness, 305 
Cladhnaherry village, xiv. Inverness, 2, 

6, 13, 25 
Clachnaheudh, the, xv. Sutherland, 147 
Clachnamban, the, xiv. Ross, 343 
Clach na Seamaish, the, xiv. Inverness, 

449 
Clachnatiompan cairn, x. Perth, 272 
Clach Ossian, x. Perth, 264 
Clach Sgoilte, the, xiv. Inverness, 98 
Clach Tarraill, xiv. Inverness, 483 
ClachtoU, remains at, xv. Sutherland, 111 
Clackmannan parish, viii. Clackmannan, 

121— colUeries, 123— distillery, 128— 

tower, 2— town, 126, 132 
Clackmannanshire agricultural society, 

viii. Clackmannan, 47, 131 — observa- 
tions on, 1 39 
Claddens limestone, viii. Dunbarton, 1 76 
Cladh Mhanaich, xiv. Inverness, 266 
Cladh nam Saaganach, xiv. Ross, 93 
Claens, ruins at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 332 
Clagen, earth-house at, xiv. Inverness, 336 
Claig castle, vii. Argyle, 669 
Claigean bay, vii. Argyle, 661 
Clair a Mhadich, xiii. Elgin, 126 
Clairinch isle, viii. Dunbarton, 233 
Claistran hall, xv. Orkney, 19 
Clamshell cave, vii. Argyle, 351 
Clanyard bay, iv. Wigton, 201 — castle 

200,208 
Claodh Churidan, xiv. Inverness, 46 
Claonaig water, vii. Aigyle, 438 
Claonary village, vu, Argyle, 27 
Clar loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Clarebrand village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 198 
Clarencefield village, iv, Dumfries, 234 
Claret well, xiii. l&Lnffy 155 
Claribad mill, ii. Berwick, 201 
Clarkstone toll, &c. vii. Renfrew, 509 
Clarkstone house, \iii. Stirling, 195 
Clary house, &c. iv. Wigton, 173, 176 
Clashbennie standing stone, x. Perth, 395 

—quarries, 374, 393— xi. Forfar, 571 
Clashcarnach harbour, xv. Sutherland, 

101 
Clashmach hill, xii. Aberdeen, 1036 
Clashmore, coal at, xv. Sutherland, 3 
Clatchard craig, ix. Fife, 49 
Clathey village, x, Perth, 284 



Clatt parish, xii. Aberdeen, 846— village 

849, 856 
Clattering Briggs, xi. Kincardine, 71, 74 
Clatto hill, ix. Fife, 450, 720 
Clava cairns, xiv. Inverness, 15, 450 — 

limeworks, 447 
Clavalag, remains at, xiv. InvemesB| 450 
Claverhouse, xi. For&r, 56 
Clavin hills, v. Ayr, 667 
Claybrae, remains at, vL Lanark, 882 
Clay land house, vi Lanark, 784 
Clayhole village, iv. Wigton, 95, 126 
Clayhouses village, i. Edinburgh, 183 
Claymires, spring at, xii Aberdeen, 983 
Claymires, school at, viii. Stirling, 271 
Clayock, improvements at, xv. Caithnen, 

115 
Claypots, farm of, xi. ForfiEir, 21 
Clayquhat hill, x. Perth, 900 
Clayiiiank, annexed parish of, iv. Wigton, 

162— church, 164 
Clayslap mills, vl Lanark, 206 
Clear den, xv. Caithness, 62 
Clearbum village, L Edinburgh, 390, 393 
Clearbum loch, iii. Selkirk, 36 
Cleatt chapel, xv. Orkney, 141 — lime- 
works, 119 
Cleaves colliery, v. Ayr, 232 
Cleddin bum, viii. Dunbarton, 20 
Cleghorn bridge, vi. Lanark, 24 — chapel, 

15— house, &c. 9, 13, 18— valley, 2, 4 
Cleish parish, ix. Kinross, 38— place, 41 

—hills, 1, 38, 70, Fife, 823 
Cleland collieries vi. Lanark, 775 — house, 

772, 784, 958 
Clerkington house, ii Haddington, 6 
Clerkland limeworks, v. Ayr, 729 
Clermiston propertv, i. Edinburgh, 214 
Clerk's bridge, vii feenfrew, 354 
Clerkston village, &c. vi. Lanark, 246, 247 
Clett rock, xv. Orkney, 2 
Cleuchmaidstone, ravine of, I Edinburgh, 

547 
Cleugh bum, v. Ayr, 130 
Cleughbrae village, iv. Dumfries, 447 
Cleughbum limeworks, vi. Lanark, 78 
Cleughhead's hill, iv. Dumfries, 184 
Cleughem lodge, vi. Lanark, 892 
Cleughhouse bum, iv. Dumfries, 467 
Clibric moimt, xv. Sutherland, 48, 58, 66, 

149 
CUff hills, XV. Shetland, 8— loch, 37— 

quarries, 45 — sound, 9, 69 
Cliffdale house, xv. Orkney, 80— remains 

at, 81 
Cliffs of Carron, viii. Stirling, 11^ 
Clifton village, i. Edinburgh, 139 
Cliflon village, x. Perth, 1091 
CUfton hill, iil Roxburgh, 448— chapel 

at, 454 
Cliftonpark house,iii. Roxburgh, 146, 149 
Climpy collieries, vi. Lanark, 79, 81— 

chapel, 90 

Clint YiiW, \N. \>vxn&\«».^'^^ 



SSSSKAL INDEX. 



^ . ^ .. vrtLcuJbright, 

^>, . - w A Jui^h, 443 
^, ... ., .U.iiiTvw,362,370 

t . v. ^kLntfurdine, 24 
\.- ., .. . VOtfitleen, 1092 
^.. . ioiirww. 96 
X.*.. *iii. Dunbarton, 38, 

. VTi.i:,v. Kincardine, 232, 324 

<^ MV»Hf. vii. Renfrew, 866 

. ^ w..^ .iii. ^itirling, 290 

^v » i^.:«iKM-'<\ vil Renfrew, 286 

. V i^v ^''-^ ^ ^ l^anark, 726 

..j^ .» : K »i9^\ xii. Abenlcen, 238 

. '.>,«t «ikm\ ill. Roxburgh, 61 

^ .x«k»:i« Lmwtonc at, v. Ayr, 814 

.. ..s^;u vvwtlts V. Ayr, 494, 500 
. ^•>,^.un^h Umcworks, v. Ayr, 504 
. s^vVtu (virish, iv. Dumfries, 77— castle 
s 5S'.>— hall, 83— limeworks, 79, 83, 

.«; — pr\»iH>rty , 465 
V 'i«kv'i« bum, XV. Caithness, 61 
v'.vuJ^i) water, iv. Dumfries, 337 
^'•.vM,»ta,M:hool at, xv. Shetland, 136— voe, 

lOl 
V'Uuittyls cave, xiii. Banff, 1 79 
Clova house, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 409, 411. 

976 
i'luva, annexed parish of, xi Forfar, 434— 

castle, 446— mission, 185— valley, 435 
riovenfords Nillage, i. Edinburgh, 423 
iMovon hills, xiii. Elgin, 160 
iMovcrhill, remains found ut, iii. Peebles, 

87 
Cloy glen, v. Dute, 4 — water, 7 
Cluany loch, xiv. Inverness, 37, 40 
Cluden water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 265, 267, 

Dumfries, 554 — mills, 560, — village, 

563 
Cluden bank quarry, iv. Dumfries, 555 
Cluggy castle, x. Perth, 740 
Clumly, improvements at, xv. Orkney, 61 

— loch, 46, 51 
Clun, birth-j)lace of Sir James Mackin- 
tosh, xiv. Inverness, 374 
Clune cottiigo, xiii. Elgin, 70 
Clunc hills, ix. Fife, 690— plantations, 695 
Clune, fossil remains at, xiii. Nairn, 8 
Clune dam, rocks at, v. Ayr, 744 
Clunos valley, xiv. Inverness, 119 
Clunio pariMh, x. Perth, 1024— castle, 673, 

1024— forest, 898— house, 769— loch, 

673, 1024 
Cluny parish, xii. Aberdeen, 1018 — water, 

648 
Cluny house, xiii. Banff, 385 
Cluny property, xiii. Elgin. 242 
Cluny collieries, ix. Fife, 170 
Clunv ca^rtle, xiv. Invenie»s, 418, 421, 427 

—bum, 419 

Clunv water, xi. Kincardme, ;V25 
Chionic loch, xiv. Hot^ \R2, Al^l 
Cluihh I mm, ix. Fife, 534 



Clvbric, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 48, 58, 66, 

'149 
Clyde, falls of, vi. Lanark, 5, 936 
Clyde, frith of, m Argyle, 415, 456, 574, 
577, V. Ayr, 243, 667, 786, Bute, 83, 
9G, viii. Dunbarton, 70, 103, vii. Ren- 
frew, 57, 406, 409 
Clvde ironworks, vi. Lanark, 160, 243, 64 1 , 

648, 658 
Clyde river, viii. Dunbarton, 15, vi. La- 
nark, 41, 42, 52, 63, 67, 76, 102, 104, 
114, 196, 239,250,253, 315, 329, 341, 
342, 354, 375, 416, 419, 444, 498, 517, 
519, 535, 536, 548, 549, 564, 635, 641, 
669, 719, 721, 766, 771, 806, 807, 810, 
869, 942, iii. Peebles, 59, vii. Renfrew, 
2,25, 114, *500, 525, 533 
Clydesdale coursing club, vii. Renfrew, 389 
Clydesdale orchards, vl Lanark, 457, 589, 

743 
Clyne parish, xv. Sutherland, 149 
Clyne house, xiv. Ross, 321 
Clynelish farm, xv. Sutherland, 150, 158 
Clvne Milton bum, xv. Sutherland, 151 
Clyth castle, xv. Caithness, 91— ness, 85 

—property, 88, 99 
Clvthe castle, xv. Sutherland, 141 
Cnoc of Alves, xui. Elgin, 86, 102 
Cnoc of Bathgate, ii Linlithgow, 150 
Cnoc of Brae Moray, xiii. Elgin, 179 
Cnoc of Crieff, x. Perth, 491 
Cnoc of Fordyce, xiii. Banff, 179 
Cnoc of Formal, xi. Forfar, 636 
Cnoc of Gninge, xiii. Banff, 213 
Cnoc of Ordiquhill, xiii. Banff, 79, 80 
Cnoc of Renfrew, vii. Renfrew, 2, 1 3, 1 7 
Cnoc of Tullich, xii. Abenk"en, 774 
Cnocantiahhall hill, xiv. Ross, 434 
Cnocbain hill, xiv. Itoss, 384 
Cnoc Cniggy hill, xv. Sutherland, 171 
Cnoccniig hill, iv. Dumfries, 67 
Cnoc EldemlH)!! hill, xv. Sutherland, 1 R!» 
Cnoc Farril hill and fort, xiv. Ross, 245 
Cnocfin hill, xv. Sutlierland, 135 
Cnocgeorgen hill, v. Ayr, 191, 198 
Cnocimy hill, xiv. Ross, 404 
Cnock a chath, xv. Sutherland, 62 
Cnoclagun hill, xiv. Roas, 435 
Cnocmary hill, x. Perth, 491 
Cnocmhoir hill, xiv. Inverness, 459 
Cnocna)>areibhich hill,xv. Caithuess,l 3,1 5 
Cnocnacnamhun caim, xv. Sutherland, 94 
Cnocnagillan, xiii. Nairn, 1, 9 
Cnocna vie hill, xiv. Ross, 271 
Cnocnowton, vi. Lanark, 609 
Cnocphail hill, xiv. Inverness. 285 
Cnocside hill, v. Ayr, 787 
Cnocsleitill hill, xv. Orkney, 13 
Cnocurray ca.stle, xv. Orkney. 13 
Co chapel and well, iv. Wigton, 208 
Coalbog colliery, vii. Renfrew, 359 
Coalburn, Cambusnethan, vi. Ljuiark, 6n;; 
Coalburn, Cumnock, collierv, v. Avr, 314 



QBNERAL INDEX. 



XXXVll 



Coalha' pottery, v. Ayr, 644 
Coalheugh well, xv. Ross, 6 
Coalsnaughton colliery, viii. Clackman- 
nan, 25, 69— village, 73 
Coalston bum, ii. Haddington, 2, 271, 

272— house, &c. 1, 6 
Coalton of Ceres village, ix. Fife, 517 
Coalton of Kettle village, ix. Fife, 106, 109 
Coalton of Wemyss, ix. Fife, 398, 400 
Coaly burn colliery, iii. Peebles, 155 
Coaly land colliery, viii. Clackmannan, 22, 

25— village, 44 
Coat castle, vi. Lanark, 471 
Coatbridge village, vi. Lanark, 652 
Coatdyke village, vi. Lanark, 652 
Coates property, ii. Haddington, 181, 188 
Coathill school, vL Lanark, 247 
Coats collieries, &c. vi. Lanark, 420, 647, 

649— house, 653— villages, 431 
Coatsdikc quarry, vi. Lanark, 649 
Coatshill, moat on, iv. Dumfries, 122 
Coatsmuir, \i. Lanark, 656 
Coatt, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 404 
Cobairdy house, xii. Aberdeen, 601 
Cobbleheugh, remains found at, xL Kin- 
cardine, 301 
Coburty millstone quarry, xii. Aberdeen, 

269 
Cochney house, vii. Renfrew, 14 
Cochno, remains at, viiL Dunbarton, 21 
Cochrane house, vii. Renfrew, 198 
Cochridgo moss, x. Perth, 898, 906 
Cock of Arran hill, v. Bute, 2, 9 
Cockaimey house, ix. Fife, 181 
Cockbum law, ii. Berwick, 247, 248 
Cockbumspath and Old Cambus, united 
parishes of, ii. Berwick, 290 — tower, 303 
—village, 303, 307, 310 
Cockenzie chapel, ii. Haddington, 300— 
House, 293— village and harbour, 284, 
289, 297, 299, 300 
Cockham water, i. Edinburgh, 403 
Cockhill plantations, v. Ayr, 3 
Cocklarachy, remains found at, xii. Aber- 
deen, 299 
Cocklaw, ruins of tower at, i. Edinbui^h, 

547 
Cocklaw bum, vi. Lanark, 848, 854 
Cocklaw hill, ii. Berwick, 340, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 160,444 
Cockle bum, i. Edinburgh, 590, 592, ii. 

Linh'thgow, 92 
Cockle hill, viL Renfrew, 7, 13 
Cockleroi hill, viii. Dunlmrton, 181, ii 
Linlithgow, 35, 170, viii. Stirling, 207 
Cockmuir, coins found at, xiL Aberdeen, 

585 
Cockneyfield dyeworks, viii. Dunbarton, 

28 
Cockpen, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 606 
Cockplay well, vi. Lanark, 399 
Cock pool castle, iv. Dumfries, 229 
Cocks bum, vi. Lanark, 420 
Cocks caira, xii. Aberdeen, 1022 
Cock$ton, remains found at, xiii. Banff, 97 



Coddingham loch, ii. Berwick, 280 
Coe water, vii. Aigyle, 231 
Coeffin castle, vii. Arg,vie, 241 
Cogriebum, lead ore at, iv. DumfHes, 162 

—school, 166 
Coich water, xii. Aberdeen, 648 
Coie bum, xi. Kincardine, 325 
Coigach district, xiv. Roes, 74 
CoiJa water, v. Ayr, 106 
Coilholme wood, v. Ayr, 744, 756 
Coil's tomb, v. Ayr, 751 
Coilsfield house, v. Ayr, f43, 751, 757 
Coiltie water, xiv. Inverness, 37, 39 
Coinneag loch, xiv. Ross, 264— mount, 

262 
Coire loch, xiv. Inverness, 515 
Coimaftam loch, xv. Sutherland, 68 
Coimanurisken cave, x. Perth, 351 
Coiriusg loch, xiv. Inverness, 296, 301 
Colbrandspath tower, ii Haddington, 303 
Coldbacky hill, xv. Sutherland, 171 
Coldchapel moat, vi Lanark, 503 
Coldingham parish, ii Berwick, 279 — 

common, 284— loch, 280 — priory, 282 

—village, 287 
Coldoch, cave at, x. Perth, 1231 
Coldon, coins found at, ix. Kinross, 1 1 
Coldran, remains at, xiii Banff, 97 
Coldrochie water, x. Perth, 163 
Coldstone, see Logie Coldstone 
Coldstream parish, ii. Berwick 199— town, 

208 
Cole castle, xv. Sutherland, 1 54 
Colfin glen, iv. Wigton, 142 
Colgrave sound, xv. Shetland, 24, 82 
Colieum house, viii. Stirling, 363 
Coligarth district, xv. Orkney, 133^re- 

mains on, 140 
Coliness, xv. Orkney, 140 
Colin's isle, vii Renfrew, 115, 117 
Colinsburgh village, ix. Fife, 328 
Colinshiel colliery, ii. Linlithgow, 154 
Colinton parish, i. Edinburgh, 1 07— house, 

108, 111, 119— village, 121 
Colipol village, vii Argyle, 79 
Coll island, vii Argyle,' 198, 199 
Coll, cave at, xiv. Roes, 116— water,. 120 
Colla frith, xv. Shetland, 71 
CoUace parish, x. Perth, 210— village, 

214 
Collaimie castle, ix. Fife, 209 
College close, Falkland, ix. Fife, 937 
College hill of Roslin, i Edinburgh, 341 
College water, iii. Roxburgh, 462 
Collennan quarries, v. Ayr, 668 
CoUessie parish, ix. Fife, 21 — village, 30 
Collielaw hill, ii Berwick, 91 
Colliemore hill, x. Perth, 900 
Collieston property, iv. Dumfries, 342 
Collin, battle at, x. Perth, 1047 
Collin house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 356, 365 
Collin village, iv. Dumfries, 32 
Collinswell house, ix.. ¥\fe^ ^\t> 
Co\\\8toTiYvowBe,TUL.Ycstfes.,^'^^— ^^s^s^,^^' 
5\A, 5\^ 



xxxviu 



QENERAX IKDEX. 



CoUiston village, xiL Aberdeen, 590, 594, 

595 
Collow markets, xL Forfinr, 454 
CoUuthie bum, ix. Fife,^ 534— hottse, 792 
Colly veat, the, iv. DumJ&ies, 41 
Colmellie, remaiiiB at, xi. Forfar, 623 
Colmonell parish, v. Ayr, 528 — village, 

531 
Colmslie hill, iii. Roxburgh, 65— tower, 

58 
Colonsay isle, vii. Argyle, 340, 345, 351, 

534, 544 
Colp, tumulus at, xii. Aberdeen, 993 
Colpie bum, xii, Aberdeen, 728— remains 

at, 732 
ColqiUieman chapel, v. Ayr, 6 55'- quarry, 

661 
Colsay isle, xv. Shetland, 94 
Colsnaughton, see Coalsnaughton 
Colstane, see Logie Coldstone 
Coltness house, vL Lanark, 615, 958 — 

ironworks, 590, 610 — property, 617 — 

tilework, 611 
Coltry bum, i. Edinburgh, 196 
Colston village, vi. Lanark, 246 
Columcille loch, xiv. Inverness, 267, 279 
Colvend and Southwick parish, iv, Kirk- 
cudbright, 215 
Colzium castle, viii. Stirb'ng, 152 — glen, 

147— house, 142, 148 
Comaraich property, xiv. Ross, 100 
Comes well, xiii. Banff, 147 
Comeston, battle at, xi. Kincardine, 282 
Comiston house, i. Edinburgh, 120 
Comlongon woods, iv. Dumfries, 220 — 

castle, 228 
Common colliery, v. Ayr, 326 
Common haugh, iii. Roxburgh, 379 
Common hill, v. Bute, 96 
Communion stones, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

268 
Comore loch, vii. Renfrew, 316 
Compass, hill, xiv. Inverness, 149 
Compensation pond, i. Edinburgh, 311 
Compstou castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 40 — 

house, ib. 
Comrie parish, x. Perth, 578 — house, 584 

—village, 590, 703 
Com>'n'8 pool, iv. Dumfries, 59 
Con loch, X. Perth, 1151 
Cona water, \ii. Argyle, 231 
Conachan hills, x. Perth, 251 
Conachan isle, viii. Dunbarton, 156, 157 
Conait water, x. Perth, 541 
Conan chapel, xi. Forfar, 490 
Conan house, xiv. Ross, 368 — property, 

374— water, 40, 21 1» 214, 215, 218, 

227, 2.51, 364, 366, 367, 399, 400 
Conanbridge, village, xiv. Ross, 377 
Conansay limeworks, xi. Forfar, 352 
Conansyth house, xi. Forfar, 358 
Concraig cliffs, x. Perth, 315, 316 
Condorat village, viii. Dunbarton, 149 
Cone, sandstone at, iv. Dumfries, 206 



Coneach house, vii^ Argyld, 229— water, 

231 
Conerock hill, xiii. Elgin, 229 
Confunderland moss, xii. Aberdeen, 1105 
Congalton property, iL Haddington, 210 
Conghoillis, ancient parish of, xi Fer&r, 

239 
Conglass water, xiiL Banff, 297 
Conheath property, &c. iv. Dumfiies, 351, 

354 
Conicaval school, xiii. Elgin, 193 
Coniglen valley, viL Argyle, 413— water, 

416 
Coning hill, xii. Aberdeen, 681 
Coningsburgh hills, xv. Shetland, 8 
Connage harbour, &c xiv. Inverness, 378, 

390 
Connell ferry, vii. Argyle, 475 
Connell loch, iv. Wigton, 103 
Conneypark, remains at, viii. Stirling, 152 
Connon and Conon, see Conan 
Conry water, xii. Aberdeen, 530 
Conns quarry, xii. Aberdeen, 985 
Constable, improvements at, v. Ayr, 803 
Content, remains found at, v. Ayr, 120 
Contin parish, xiv. Ross, 235 
Contullich bum, xik Aberdeen, 1049 
Conval hill, and fort on, xiiL Banff, 104, 

106, 110— XV. Sutherland, 105 
Conversion brae, vi. Lanark, 420 
Conveth property, xL Kincajxline, 133 
Convinth, suppressed parish, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 483 
Cookney chapel, xi. Kincardine, 265 
Cookstone mill, xi. For&r, 685— moss, 

673 
Coom hill, iii. Roxburgh, 87 
Coquet water, iii. Roxburgh, 254 
Coquhalzie house, &c. x. Perth, 336, 339 
Corafuar hill, \iii. Dunbarton, 156 
Corah castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 220 
Corbanchory caira, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 

1121, 1122 
Corbet house, iii. Roxburgh, 449, 451 
Corbie bum, xi. Forfar, 234 
Corbie hall, ii. Berwick, 225 
Corbie hall, camp at, vi. Lanaxk, 533 
Corbiehill village, ix. Fife, 578 
Corbie pot, xi. Kincardine, 191 
Corbie's Know, xi. Forfar, 325 
Corchinan bum, xii. Aberdeen, 407 
Cordell printworks, viii. Dunbarton, 234 
Cordorken, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 
Core water, iii. Peebles, 59 
Coreen hills, xii. Aberdeen, 440, 486, 846 
Corehouse falls, vi. Lanark, 5 
Corellan isle, vii. Argj'le, 2.59 
Corfardine quarry, iv. Dumfries, 474 
Corf house bay, xiv. Ross, 172 
Corgach, coal at, xv. Sutherland, 3 
Corgarth district, xii. Aberdeen, 528 — 

castle, 544— chapel, 547, 554 — spring, 

Corgyle plantations, xiii. Elgin, 6 7 



GENERAL INDEX. 



XXXI X 



Corhabbie hUl, xiil Banff, lOS 
Corinachencher bay, vii Argyle, 281 
Corinessie vale, xv. Sutherland, 84 
Corkindale law, vii. Renfrew, 309 
Corkrie port, iv. "VVigton, 201 ' 

Corlie hill, viL Renfrew, 536 
Connie hill, ix. Fife, 150 
Cormilligan Bane hill, iv. Dumfiries, 473 
Cormiston plantations, vi Lanark, 45 
Cormorant cave, vii. Argyle, 352 
Com exchange, Stirling, viiL Stirling, 426 
Comachantian hill, viii. Dunbarton, 156 
Comal tower, iv. Dumfries, 114 
Comamaugh loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Comcattarach hill, xiii. Banff, 98 
Comceres, limestone at, ix. Fife, 972 
Comcocklemuir quarries, iv. Dumfries, 

184, 221, 384 
Corahill house, xii. Aberdeen, 1076 
Comhill house, vi. Lanark, 342, 345, 353 
Comie burn, ii. Linlithgow, 18, 19 
Comletter cascade, vii. Argyle, 478, 479 
Comsilloch plantations, vL Lanark, 729 
Corotown, battle o^ viii. Stirling, 223, 316 
Corodale cave, xiv. Inverness, 183 
Corpach village, xiv. Invemcss, 122 
Corr loch, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Corra Dhim, the, xiv. Inverness, 152 
Corra linn, vi. Lanark, 5, 6, 936 
Corral bum, x. Perth, 426--<iuarries, 428 
Corran water, vii. Argyle, 536 
Corran Ardgour ferry and bay, xiv. In- 
verness, 118 — chuiches at, 125 
Corrennie hill, xii Aberdeen, 611 
Corrichie, battle of, xii. Aberdeen, 736, 

xL Kincardine, 338 — bum, 325 
Corrie, quarry at, v. Bute, 9 — harbour, 38 

Corrie, annexed parish of, iv. Dumfries, 
537— bum, 172, 174, 452, 537— Uw, 
452 

Corrie hill, viii. Stirling, 147 — limeworks, 

143 
Corrie, remains at, xv. Sutherland, 50 

Corrie of Balglas, the, viii Stirling, 61 

Corriedow, cave at, xiv. Inverness, 492 

Corriedown, remains at, xiii Banff, 253 

Corrieknows, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 249 

Corrigills, rocks at, v. Bute, 8 

Corrimonv house, &c. xiv. Inverness, 43, 
45— valley, 37, 38 

Corrisel house, iv. Wigton, 179 

Corriyearrig hill, xiv. Invemess, 52 

Corrody hill, x. Perth, 424 

Corry, improvements at, xiv. Inverness, 
309 

Corryaur, district of, x. Perth, 312 

Corry brough plantations, xiv. Inverness, 
104 

Corryfeam hill, xiv. Ross, 435 

Corsancone hill, v. Ayr, 509, 510, vi 
Lanark, 61 

Corsbie house, iv. Wigton, 179 

Corsbie loch and tower, ii Berwick, 349, 

353 
Corscryne, battle o(, vii Lanark, 359 



Corse chapel, xii. Aberdeen, 958— castle, 
959— hill, 957, 1092, 1122— house, 601 
— property, 1108 
Corscleugh bum, iii. Selkirk, 36 
Corsedarder standing stones, xii. Aber^ 

deen, 789 
Corsilat house, vii. Renfrew, 1 98 
Corshill burn, v. Ayr, 290, 728— castle, 

734— limeworks, 729 
Corsemill village, vii. Renfrew, 200 
Corserig of Meurose, iii Roxburgh, 61 
Corsekill park, ii Haddington, 243 
Corsock castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 28S — 

loch, 282 
Corsoncone, see Corsancone 
Corston hill, i Fidinburgh, 435 
Corstorphine parish, i Edinburgh, 205—- 
hills, 206, 593— house, 215— property, 
209— village, 221 
Corswall castle, iv. Wigton, 110 — house, 
&c. 106, 107, 111, 116— point and 
lighthouse, 103, 112 
Cortachy bridge, quarries at, xi Forfiir, 
437— castle, 200, 440, 446— tombs at, 
445 
Cortachy and Clova, united parishes of, 

xi Forfar, 434 
Cortes, remains at, xii Aberdeen, 293— 

house, 294 
Corvichen quarries, xii. Aberdeen, 299 
Corymulzie cascade, xii. Aberdeen, 648 

— cottage, 650 
Coryvannoch well, xi. Forfar, 422 
Coryvreckan whirlpool, vii Argyle, 536 
Coschnoch moor, vi. Lanark, 102 
Coshgeavag cave, xv. Sutherland, 201 
Cossins castle, xi. Forfar, 345 
Costa head, xv. Orkney, 1 96 
Coston limestone, vi. Lanark, 66 
Cotbum hill, xii Aberdeen, 982 
Cotchet hill, ii. Berwick, 51 
Cothal cloth mills, xii Aberdeen, 170 
Cothal farm, xii. Elgin, 160, 163 
Cothiemuir hill, xii. Aberdeen, 946 
Cothill of Lunan, xi. Forfiu-, 325 
Cothill loch, xii. Aberdeen, 591 
Cotho water, iii. Peebles, 79 
Cottack village, iv. Dumfries, 336, 344, 

345 
Cottascarth, coins found at, xv. Orkney, 

201 
Cottown of Ingliston village, xi Forfar, 

218 
Cottown of Invereighty village, xi. Forfar, 

218 
Cottown of Lownie village, xi. Forfiir, 152 
Cottown of St Madoes village, x. Pierth, 

633 
Cotton Knap hill, xi For&r, 326 
Cotts loch, xiii Elgin, 45 
Cotybura, ironstone at, ii. Haddington, 

176 
Couffurach village and school, xiii Banff, 

266 
Coul house, &c. xiv. Ross, 237, 238 



3d 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Coulalt bum, xiii Banff; 1 30 

Coulalt loch, xiil Elgin, 62 

Coulard hillB, xiil Elgin, 146, 149 

Ck»u]l collieries, ix. Fife, 659 

Coull farm, xv. Sutherland, 9 

Coull parish, xii Aberdeen, 957— castle, 

959 
Coullin hillB, xiv. Inverness, 219, 221, 

295, 300 
Coulmony house, &c. xiii. Nairn, 27, 29, 

32 
Coulter loch, viii. Stirling, 307, 313 
Coultry hill, ix. Fife, 578— village, ib. 
Countess's room, Cassilis, v. Ayr, 499 
Countesswells house, xii. Aberdeen, 106, 

108— plantations, 107 
County hall, Ayr,_v. Ayr, 22, Edinburgh, 

I Edinbuigh, 717 
Coupar- Angus, parish, x. Perth, 1141 — 

abbey, 1143— town, 1147 
Courance, coins found at, iv. Dumfries, 71 
Coursington colliery, vi. Lanark, 446 
Courthill of Auchtergaven, x. Perth, 425 
Courthill of Bellie, xiii Elgin, 1 19 
Courthill of Cathcart, vii. Renfrew, 504 
Courthill of Dairy, v. Ayr, 220, 580 
Courthill of Lunan, xL For&r, 325 
Courthill of Pettie, xiv. Inverness, 391 
Courthill of Rosemarkie, xiv. Ross, 354 
Courthill of Torbolton, v. Ayr, 748 
Court know of Keir, iv. Dumfries, 467 
Cousland chapel and village, i. Edinburgh, 

192, 195 
Couston, improvements at, xi Forfar, 563 
Couston, spring at, ii. Linlithgow, 151 
Couthally eastle, vi. Lanark, 83 
Co vans property, v. Bute, 74 
Covant bum, vL Lanark, 255 
Cove bav and harbour, ii. Berwick, 291, 

297, 298, 309, 312 
Cove, cave at, vii Argyle, 345— chapel, 

262, 263 
Cove house, iv. Diunfries, 280 — lead mine, 

301, 303— quarries, 284 
Cove of Kilbride, v. Ayr, 247 
Cove of Kirkpatrick, remains found at, iv. 

Dumfries, 279 
Cove of Nigg harbour and village, xi Kin- 
cardine, 196,207,208 
Cove stanes, ii. Berwick, 253 
Covenant bum, xiii. Elgin, 62 
Covesea quarries, xiv. Inverness, 22 
Covington mill, vi. Lanark, 70-— property, 

873— village, 875 
Covington and Thankerton, united pa- 
rishes of, vi Lanark, 872 
Cowan's hospital, viii. Stirling, 423, 444 
Cowbrae hill, i. Edinburgh, 155 
Cowcash harbour, xi. Kincardine, 197 
Cowden district, i Edinbuigh, 500 
Cowdenbog bum, i. Edinburgh, 452 
Cowdenknows, ii. Berwick, 19, 21 
Cowdens, geology of, iv. Dumfries, 206 
Cowdonhill property, viii. Dunbarton, 46 
Cowgask church, x. Perth, 338 



Cowgate port, Dundee, xi. For&r, ] 7 
Cowgled collieries, &c vii. Renfrew, 36 
Cowhill, coins found at, ii. Linlithgow, 81 
Cowhill house, &c. iv. Dumfries, 555, 560 
Cowie castle, xi. Kincardine, 251— com- 
mon, 244, 259 — ^harbour, 246— house, 
253— village, 262— water, 165, 166, 
214, 244, 245 
Cowparks, the, viii Stirling, 428, 429 
Cow's eye spring, xiv. Ross, 21 
Cowshaven, cave at, xii Aberdeen, 259 
Cowsrieve hill, xii. Aberdeen, 345 
Cox collieries, viii. Stirling, 345 
Coyl craigs, v. Ayr, 650 — water, 651 
Coylton parish, v. Ayr, 649 — coalfield, 493 

—village, 660 
Crachie water, x, Perth, 164 
Cradle stone of Cnoc, x. Perth, 492 
Craftammie frdr, viii Dunbarton, 219 
Crag loch, xii Aberdeen, 1102 
Craggach quarry, xv. Caithness, 19 
Craggie loch, xv. Sutherland, 48, 169 
Craichy mill, xi. Forfsir, 150 — village, 152 
Craick hill, iii Roxburgh, 87 
Craig bum, xii Aberdeen, 407, 408 — 

house, &c. 410,411 
Craig castle, xiv. Ross, 45 
Craig house, xi. Forfar, 677 
Craig parish, xi Forfar, 245 — castle, 251 
Craig, spring at, iii Selkirk, 35 
Craig tower, iii. Roxburgh, 260 
Craig of Ailsa, v. Ayr, 10, 381 
Craig of Ballater, xi Kincardine, 232 
Craig of Lundie, xi Forfar, 457 
Craig of Port, x. Perth, 1096 
Craigaboddich hill, xv. Sutherland, 1 35 
Craigachrochean, xiii Banff, 134 — bridge 

139 
Craigaithrey, xiii. Banff, 84 
Craigallion loch, nii. Stirling, 73 
Craig Ammel, xv. Caithness, 1 1 9 
Craigandarroch hill, xii Aberdeen, 774 
Craiganeom cave, xiv. Inverness, 98 
Craiganfhiach hill, xiv. Ross, 246 
Craiganoin, skirmish at, xiv. Inveme88,517 
Craiganroy bay, xiv. Ross, 186 
Craigbar, fort at, xv. Sutherland, 154 
Craigbamet house, viii. Stirling, 244 
Craigbeg hill, xi Kincardine, 1 70 
Craigbeg quarry, viii. Stirling, 330 
Craig Bhokie cliffs, x v. Sutherland, 191 
Craigbinny/hill,ii Linlithgow, 170 
Craig Boddich, xv. Sutherland, 191 
Craigbuie, plantations at, xiv. Inverness, 

84 
Craigbum water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 99 — 

—hill, 314 
Craigburn water, vi. Lanark, 479 
Craigburn school, viii. Stirling, 35 
Craigcaffie castle, iv. Wigton, 89 
Craigchailliach hill, x. Perth, 1077 
Craigcleuch bum, iv. Dumfries, 430 
Craigcrook house, i. Edinburgh. 597 
Craigdarroch house, iv. Dumfries, 332 — 
improvements at, 333 — water, 331 



aSNEBAL INDEX. 



xli 



Craigdarroch hoiue, juv. Rosb, 241 
Craig Davidy xi. B^incardine, 2, 340, 311 
Craigdeig rocks, xiv. InvemesB, 14 
Craig Dhereag hill, x. Perth, 1096 
Craig Dhu hill, x. Perth, 1096 
Craigdhuloch cliflb, xii. Aberdeen, 775 
Craigdow hill and loch, t. Ayr, 781 
Craigeornadhan, battle o^ xIt. Rosb, 

407 
Craig Elachie bridge, &c. xiiL Banff^ 113, 

121, Elgin, 60, 63, 71, 124, 228, 229 
Craigenbuck quarry, ii Linlithgow, 136 
Craigencallie, battle of, iv. Kircudbright, 

124 
Craigencat, ix. Kinross, 39 
Craigencroan point, viii. Dunbarton, 107 
Craigencrune hill, ix. Fife, 633 
Craigend, camp at, I Edinburgh, 416 
Craigend loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 246 
Craigend hill, vi. Lanark, 7^moat at, 362 

—quarry, 18, 21 
Craigend, rocks at, viL Renfrew, 386 
Craigend colliery, yiii. Stirling, 208^ 

house, &c 82— quarry, 330 
Craigendowie, remains at, xi. Forfiur, 689 
Craigends collieries, viL Renfrew, 359— 

house, &c. 357, 362, 369, 370 
Craigenfeich, rocks at, vii. Renfrew, 386, 

387 
Craigenfeoch, coal at, vii Renfrew, 153 
Craigeniiech crags, vi. Lanark, 882 
Craigengar hill and cave, vi Lanark, 64 
Craigengelt house, &c. viii Stirling, 324 
Craigengour property, v. Bute, 74 
Craigengower hill, v. Ayr, 333 
Craigenscore hill, xii Aberdeen, 436 
Craig Evie, xi Kincardine, 27 
Craig Ewen, xii. Aberdeen, 188 
Craigfoodie hill, ix. Fife, 218, 770, 771, 

787 
Craigfort, Roman road at, viii Stirling, 

332 
Craigforth, rocks at, viii Stirling, 397 
Craigghartin hill, xiii. Elgin, 124 
Craiggies district, xv. Sutherland, 55 
Craig Gibbon hill, x. Perth, 424, 434 
Craighall colliery, v. Ayr, 651, 660— vil- 
lage, 662 
Craighall colliery, i Edinburgh, 251— vil- 
lages, 294 
CraighaU castle, ix. Fife, 519— clifiii, 518, 

— house, 524— quarry, 521 
Craighall house, xi Forfiur, 572 
Craighall clilb, x. Perth, 240— house, 242, 

902 
Craighead, fells at, v. Ayr, 812 — lime- 
works, 382 — quarries, 291 
Craighesid, the, xiii Bauft, 156 
Craighead point, ix. Fife, 506— qtBurry, 

94^ — remains at, 956 
Craighead house, &c vi Lanark, 319, 

500 
Craigherbs, remains at, xiii Banff, 226 
Craighlaw house, iv. Wigton, 197 
Craigholm house, ix. Fife, 412 

VOL. XV. 



Craighouse, ironstone at, v. Ayr, 574 
Craighouse, ruins at, xiv. Ross, 46 
Craighruigh hill, x. Perth, 345 
Craigie parish, v. A3rr, 764— castle, 93, 

765— hill, 606— house, 2, 120 
Craigie hill, ix Fife, 223 
Craigie property, xi Forfar, 21 
Craigie hill, ii Linlithgow, 91 — house, 94 
Cnugie village, x. Perth, 86, 97 
Craigie loch, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Craigiebum woods, iv. Dumfries, 110 
CraigiehaU bridge, i. Edinbuigh, 593, 601 
Craigiehow hill, xiv. Ross, 384 
Craigielands house, iv. Dumfries, 127— 

house, 131 
Ciaigievaim, remains at, viii Stirling, 104 
Craigievar castle, property, &c. xii Abei^ 

deen, 1104, 1107, 1109, 1123 
Craiginbuck limeworks, ii Linlithgow, 

123 
Craiginlenue hill, viii Dunbarton, 156 
Craigland bum, xiv. Ross, 381 
Craiglea quarries, x. Perth, 199, 259 
Craigleith island, ii Haddington, 318, 319 
Craigleith quarry, i Edinbuigh, 594, 620 

—fossil trees in, 593 
Craigleith hill, viii Stirling, 180 
Craiglockhart hill, i Edinburgh, 108— 

house, &c HI, 120 — ^remains at, 119 
Craigloon, soil at, ix. Fife, 914 
Craiglug hill, ix. Fife, 633 
Craigluscar hill, ix. Fife, 824^^uarry, 

839 
Craiglush loch, x. Perth, 673 
Craigmad quarry, viii Stirling, 209 
Craigmaddie house, viii. Stirling, 171— 

loch, 73— muir, 234 
Craigman colliery, v. Ayr, 514 
Craigmarioch, limestone at, viii Dunbar- 
ton, 176— village, Stirling, 139 
Craigmili plantations, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Craigmill village, viii Stirlmg, 228, 231 
Craigmillar castle, i Edinbuigh, 6 
Craigmoni hill, xiv. Inverness, 41, 45 
Craig-nariolar, xiii Elgin, 125 
Craignair hill and quarry, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 210 
Craignathro quarries, xi For&r, 692 
Craignaught hill, v. Ajnr, 289 
Craigneil castle, &c v. Ayr, 528, 529 
Crajgnelder hill, iv. Wigton, 233 
Craignethan cartle, vi Lanark, 33, 944 
Craigneuk quarry, vi Lanark, 446— vil- 
lage, ih. 447 
Craignisdale hill, xiv. Inverness, 248 
Craignish parish, vii Aigyle, 45 — castle, 

54— loch, 46, 47 
Craigniston brae, xi Kincardine, 68 — 

bum, 71, 73 
Craignuire bay, vii Argyle, 281 
Craigo house, &c. xi For&r, 265 — ^miUs, 

267— quarry, 266 
Craigobney hill, x. Perth, 424 
Craigoch bum, iv. Wigton, 134 — ^remains 
found at, 142 



xlii 



dfiNERAL INDEX. 



Cmigowl hill, xi. Forfar, 378 

Craig Phadric hill and fort, xiv. Inver- 

ne».s 2, 8, 1 3 
Craig Ko««e hill, x. Perth, 285 
Craigrothie quarry, ix. Fife, 518 — village, 

617,523 
Craigis plantations at, iv. Dumfries, 431 
Craigs of Coyle hill, v. Ayr, 650 
Craigs of Ness pass, v. Ayr, 309, 335 
Craighhaws quarry, iv. Dumfries, 284 
Craigsimmy hill, ix. Fife, 633 
Craigskean castle, v. Ayr, 365 
Craigsland quarries, v. Ayr, 668 
Craignparrow hill, ix. Fife, 67 
Craigston castle, xii. Aberdeen, 277 
Craigthomhill house, \i. Ijanark, 296 
Craigton, spring at, xv. Caithness, 15 
Craigton property, &c viii. Dunbarton, 

38,43 
Craigton property, ii. Linlithgow, 25 
Craigturrah hill, iv. Dimifries, 473 
Craiguck, spring at, xvi Ross, 382 
Craigward cottage, viii Clackmannan, 4 
Craig^ood, the, x. Perth, 987 
Craigwood, rocks at, xiv. Ross, 386 
Craigybams hill, x. Perth, 692 
Craigy linn, xi. Forfar, 413 
Craikmoor hill, iii Roxburgh, 87 
Craiks craigs, iv. Diunfries, 126 
Crail, parish of, ix. Fife, 941 — town, 959 
Crailing parish, iii. Roxburgh, 177, 475 — 

house, 178,182— village, 183 
Crailston house, xiv. Al>erdeen, 238 
Crakaig, remains at, vii. Argyle, 349 
Crakaig house, xv. Sutherland, 199 
Cramilt farm, iii. Peebles, 167 
Cranimag point, iv. Wigton, 201 
Cramond, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 589 — 
house, 590, 596 — isle, 592 — ironworks, 
&c. 600— village, 601 
Cramond Regis house, i. Edinbui;gh, 

596 
Crane loch, iv. Dumfries, 68, vi. Lanark, 

C6, 915 
Crannich district, x. Perth, 702 
Cranshaw law, iii. Roxburgh, 191 
Cranshaws parish, ii. Berwick, 99 — hill, 

100— castle, 101 
Cranston parish, i. Edinburgh, 191 
Cranston Dean bridge, i. Edinburgh, 1 95 
Cranbton hill waterworks, vi. Lanark, 222, 

377 
Cranyard hill, xi. Forfar, 612 
Crarie bum, iv. Dumfries, 333 
Crask hill, xv. Sutherland, 189 
Craspul loch, xv. Sutherland, 87 
Crathes hill, xi. Kincardine, 326 — cattle, 

338, 343, 347 
Crathie point, xiii. nanft", 181 
Crathie and Braemar, united jiarishes of, 

xii. Aberdeen, 646 
Craw, coal at, viii. Clackmannan, {)9 
Craw »tane, the, iv. Wigton, 233 
Crawfield, coal at, v. Ayr, 573 
Crawford castle and priory, ix. Fife, 568 



Crawford parish, >i. Lanark, 327 — ensile* 

327, 331— moor, 327— village, 332, 337 

Crawfordjohn parish, vi. Lanark, 497 — 

village, 505 
Crawford^s hole, vi. Lanark, 886 
Crawiurdland castle, v. Ayr, 54 1 
Crawfiirdsdyke village and quoad sacra 

parish, vii. Renfrew, 413, 466 
Crawhill house, ii. Linlithgow, 35 
Crawick moss, vi. Lanark, 603 
Crawick water and colliery, iv. Dumiriesy 

297, 298 
Crawickmill village, iv. Dumfi-iea, 309, 

310 
CrawknowB, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 1 57 
Crawley spring, i. Edinburgh, 109, 310, 

757* 
Crawthwaite, lead ore at, iv. Dumfries, 

196 
Crawton village, xi. Kincardine, 212, 226 
Creach Bhunn hill, vii. Argyle, 124 
Creagnafale rock, xiv. Inverness, 246 
Creag Nisdale rock, xiv. Inverness, 248 
Crease, remains found at, ii. Berwick, 228 
Cree frith, iv. Wigton, I 
Cree loch, i v. Kirkcudbr^t, 119— Wig- 
ton, 169 
Cree moss, iv. Wigton, 168, 177, 189 
Cree river, iv. Kirkcudbright, 117, 118, 
119, 317, Wigton, 167, 168, 187, 220, 
V. Ayr, 408 
Cree woods, iv. Kirkcudbright, 123 
Cree bridge \illage, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 34 
Creech plantations, xv. Sutherland, 19 
Creed water, see Creid 
Creek of Annan harbour, iv. Dumfricft, 

119 
Creetown village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 134 
Creich parish, ix. Fife, 631 — Druidical 
circles, 640 — castle, 644 — church, 645 
Creid water, xiv. Ross, 1 15, 120, 157, 160, 

161 
Crcigh hill, xi. Forfar, 599 
Creighriabhach hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 
Cre-inch isle, viii. Dunbarton, 233 
Creoch colliery, v. Ayr, 514 
Creran loch, vii. Argyle, 475, 476 — water, 

231, 479 
Crew camp and well, xi. Forfar, 559 
Crib hope, iii. Roxburgh, 191 
Crib law, iii. Roxburgh, 87 
Crichie well, xii. Aberdeen, 150 
Crichton asylum, iv. Dumfries, 341 
Crichton parish, i. Edinburgh, 56— castle, 

57, 58, > 156 — house, 57 
Crichton's well, iv. Dumfries, 3 
Crickup linn, iv. Dumfries, 78 
Criech ])arish, xv. Sutherland, 17 — hill, 18 
CrieVc hill, iv. Dumfries, 195 
Criffbl mount, iv. Dumfries, 3, 63, Kirk- 
cudbright, 234, 245 
Criggie hill, xi. Kincardine, 270 
Crighton stone, xii. Aberdeen, 426 
Crimel's bay, ii. Berwick, 318 
Crimond parish, xiL Aberdeen, 702 



GENERAL INDEX. 



xliii 



Crimonmogate house, xii Aberdeen, 225 
Crinan canal, vii. Argyle, 57, 265, 638 — 

mon, 550, 552 
Croachy chapel, xiv. InTernesB, 519 
Croak's well, v. Ayr, 426 
Croachails farm, xiv. Inverness, 484 
Croclach, skirmidi at, xiii. Elgin, 1 30 
Crocketford village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 260 
Croe water, xiv. Ross, 172, 181, 182 
Croftanrigh, v. Ayr, 210 
Croilhead, cave at, iv. Dumlries, 53 
Crofthead factory, vii. Renfrew, 336 — 

house, 329— village, 330 
Croflhead limeworks, ii. Linlithgow, 76 
Crofts property, xi. Forfiir, 490 
Croglin craig, iv. Dumfries, 473 
Crogo bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 99— vil- 
lage, 104 
Croichtanteampuil, the, xiv. Ross, 252 
Croick church, xiv. Ross, 423, 427 
Croik well, xiii Banff, 214 
Cromal hill, xiv. Inverness, 467, 470 
Cromar hills, xii. Aberdeen, 240 
Cromarty bay, xiii. Elgin, 147, xiv. Ross, 
2, 21— frith, 1, 20, 21, 38, 40, 214, 
262, 263, 301, 302, 313, 333, 364, 366 
— hill, 4 — parish and town, 1, 11, 15 — 
property, 13 
Crombie bum, jd. For&r, 612, xiiL Banff, 

126, 383— castle, 384 
Crombie, suppressed parish of, ix. Fife, 

727— church, 732— villages, 733 
Cromdale parish, xiv. Invemess, 432— 

battle of, 434 
Cromore harbour, xiv. Ross, 167 
Cromwell park bleachfield, x. Perth, 1 88, 

189 
Cromwell's fort, Ayr, v. A3rr, 21, 42 
Cromwell's fort, Rosemarkie, xiv. Ross, 

351 
Cromwell's mount, ii. Haddington, 79 
Cromwell's pit,ix Fife, 984 
Crona isle, xv. Sutherland, 106 
Crook hill, vii. Renfrew, 95 
Crook house, viii. Stirling, 317 
Crook inn, iil Peebles, 68 — plantations, 

62 
•Crook of Devon, viiL Clackmannan, 122, 
ix. Kinross, 570, x. Perth, 302, SOS- 
village, 1021 
Crooked stone, the, vi. Lanark, 270— 

lime works, &c. 259 
Crookholm house, iv. Dumfries, 491 
Crooks mills, v. Ayr, 549, 550 
Crookston castle, vii. Renfrew, 34, 123, 

193, 551 
Crookston house, i. Edinburgh, 173, 417 
Croot loch, V. Ayr, 493 
Cross of Abercom, ii. Linlithgow, 26 
Cross of Alloa, viii. Clackmannan, 42 
Cross of Bongate, iii. Roxburgh, 12 
Cross of Chanonry, xiv. Ross, 353 
Cross of Dull, X. Perth, 767 
Cross of Fochabers, xiii. Elgin, 119 
CroHS of Fowlis, x. Perth, 254 



Cross of Inverness, xiv. Inverness, 16 
Cross of Merkland, iv. Dumfries, 279 
Cross of Pencaitland, ii. Haddington, 350 
Cross of Perth, x. Perth, 68 
Cross of Preston, ii. Haddington, 310 
Cross of Rayne, xii. Aberdeen, 424 
Cross of Rosemarkie, xiv. Ross, 353 
Cross of Ruthwell, iv. Dumfries, 221 
Cross of Scone, x. Perth, 1062 
Cross of Sowlis, v. Ayr, 541 
Cross of Turriff, xii. Aberdeen, 993 
Cross cave, the, xiii. Banff, 255 
Cross church of Dundee, xi. Forfar, 41 
Cross hill of Ruthcrglen, vi. Lanark, 383 
Cross kirk of Peebles, iii. Peebles, 4, 6 
Cross kirk of Unst, xv. Shetland, 40 
Cross kirk of Westray, xv. Orkney, 125 
Cross water of Luce, iv. Wigton, 76 
Cross, quoiid sacra parish of, xiv. Ross, 

141 
Cross and Bumess, united parishes of, xv. 

Orkney, 85 
Crossaig water, vii. Argyle, 438 
Cross Arthurlie printfield, viL Renfrew, 

329, 335 
Crossbasket house, &c. vi. Lanark, 319, 

878, 879, 892 
Crossbum house, vi. Lanark, 487 
Crosby chapel, v. Ayr, 170, (»6G— hill, 

246— house, 249— property, 254 
Crosschain hill, i. Edinburgh, 536 
CrosBcroin hill, vi. Lanark, 343 
Crossdarder cairn, xi. Kincardine, 237 
Croasford village, ix. Fife, 874 
Crossgates village, ix. Fife, 188, 574, 874 
Crossgight hill, xii. Aberdeen, 175 
Crosshall, remains at, ii. Berwick, 56 
Crossbill colliery, v. Ayr, 651 — village, 

494, 503, 504 
Crossbill quarry, vii. Renfrew, 497, *501 
Crossbill village and qttoad stxcra parish, 

vi. Lanark, 652, 665, 893, 898 
Crosskirk bay, xv. Orkney, 2 
Crossknowe, coins found at, vi Lanark, 

363 
Crosslee village, i Edinburgh, 423 
Crosslie factory, vii. Renfrew, 51 
Crossmichael parish, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

190— village, 198 
Crossmyloof school, vii. Renfrew, 509 
Crosspol bay, vii Ajgyle, 199 
Crossraguel abbey, v. Ayr, 782 
Crossridge hill, vi. Lanark, 518, 520 
Crossroi^ village, viii Stirling, 278 
Crosston village, xi. Forfar, 629 
Cross stones of Aberlenmo, xi. Forfar, 63^1 
Cross-street village, xiv. Ross, 136 
Crovie den, xiii. Banff, 273— viUage, 272, 

286, 291 
Crowner Gun's castle, xv. Sutherland, 1 4 1 
Crown of Scotland hill, iii Peebles, 62 
Croy mill, viii Dunbarton, 173 
Croy property, xiv. Inverness, 445, 455 
Croy and Dalcross, united parishes of, xiv. 

Invemess, 444 



xliv 



aSKEBAL IHDEZ. 




Cruach mount, x. Perth, 529 
Cniachan mount, viL Argyle, 88, 470 
Cruachluaach mount, vii. Ai^le, 632 
Crucifield hill,xT. Shetland, 87— remains 

on, 39 
Cnickie hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 282 
Cruden parish, xil Aberdeen, 978 — bay 

and scares, 979— yilla^ 978 
Cruggleton castle, ir. Wigton, 28— point, 

23-^-Buppressed parish, 22, 27 
Cniik water, xi. For&r, 311, 664 
Cniikston, see Crookston 
Cniin isle, viiu Dunbarton, 238 
Cruist Mhic aMea, xiv. Ross, 238 
Crumstane hill, ii Berwick, 288 
Cnitherland house, n. LanaA, 2W— col- 
lieries, 299 
Cuan sound, vil Aigyle, 72-pansh, see 

Kilbrandon 
Cubbs craigs, sprins; a^ ▼• Ayr, 324 
Cuen loch, xr. Sutherland, 137 
Cuff hill, V. AfT, «71--remams on, 577 

CuflBibouts Tiliige, h. Lmhthgow, 72 ^^ 

Cugie cate, Jdr. Inremess, 492— forest, 

495 

Cuil bsy, Tii. Axwrle, 229 

CuiUie loch, xr. Sutherland, 1 37 

GuiUin, see CulUn 

Culaird school, xiv. Inyemess, 374 

Culaixdo hill, xi Kincardine, 40 

Culalo hills, ix. Fife, 219, 830 

Culbin property, xiii. Elgin, 33— sand- 
hills, 215, 217 

Culbinagarth burial ground, xv. Shetland, 

12 
Culblair, remains found at, xiv. Inverness, 

893 
Oolblean hiHs, xii. Aberdeen, 773— cairns, 

on, 778— battle of, 1062— cave in, 774 
Culbo property, xiv. Row, 48 
Culbockie village, xiv. Ross, 377 
Culcabock village, xiv. Inverness, 25 
Culcaim, marl at, xiv. Ross, 264 
Culchinnock farm house, xiv. Inverness, 

518 
Culclachie plantations, xiv. Inverness, 516, 

520 
Culcreuch factory, viii. Stirling, 40, 45— 

house, 38, 43 
Culdoich property, xiv. Inverness, 445 
Culduthel moor, xiv. Inverness, 445, 447 
Culemie spring, xiv. Inverness, 380 
Culfreich loch, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Culgnwer, cairns at, xv. Sutherland, 201 
Culhill colliery, \i. Lanark, 666 
Culiss property, xiv. Ross, 25 
Cullnlo hills, ix. Fife, 219, 830 
Cullen parish, xiii. Banff, 313 — bay, 314, 

31G-.hou8e, 249, 251, 314, 316, 319, 

321, 327, 342— town, 313— water, 247, 

315 
CuUerly, improvements at, xii. Aberdeen, 

740 

ullicudden, annexed parish of, xiv. Ross, 
^—quarry, 42 



Cullin hills, xiv. Inyenien, 219, 221, 295, 

300 
Cullisaid loch, xv. Sutherbmd, 169 . 

CuUivoe bay, xv. Shetland, 24, 32 M 
Cullochbum village, tl Lanaik, 431 19 
Culloden, battle o^ xiv. Invemea, 15, 

451,514,518— cflMtle, 15— house, 16 — 

property, 887 
Cullycan den, xiii Banff, 273 
Cuhn hill, iil Rexbuig^ 87 
Cuhsallie, ancient puish o^ xt. Suther- 
land, 24 
Culmeaddin hill, xii Aberdeen, 728 
Culnagrein village, xiv. Ross, 136 
Culnoag church, iv. Wigton, 28 
Culquhannv caitle, xii Aberdeen, 544 
Culross pansh, x. Perth, 597— abbey, 600 

—town, 598 
Culsahnond parish, xii Aberdeeo, 727 — 

hill, &c. 728— quarries, 729 
Culscaddan sands, iv. Wigton, 28 
CuLsh hill, xii Aberdeen, 175— standing 

stones, 177 
Culstemess, cave at, xv. Shetland, 57 
Culswick brough, xv. Shetland, 100, 111 

—school, 136 
Culter bum, xii. Aberdeen, 105— house, 

&c 106, 107, 108— property, 886 
Culter parish, vi Lanark, 340— bum, 341, 

342, 944— craig, 342— fell, 841, 953, 

iii Peebles, 79 — village, vi Lanark, 

340, 347, 350 
Culterallers house, &c. vi Lanark, 842; 

343 
Cultermains house, vi Lanark, 344— em- 
bankment at, 349 
Cultens^ nook, iv. Dumfries, 340 
Cultoquhey parish, x. Perth, 250— camp 

at, 255, 272— house, 257, 275 
Cults parish, ix. Fife, 558— hills, ib, — 

quarries, 570 
Cults, remains at, xii Aberdeen, 585 
Cults school, xi. Kincardine, 186 
Cultsmill village, ix. Fife, 574 
Culvennon quarries, iv. Wigton, 198 
Culzean castle and caves, v. Ayr, 352, 788 
Cumbernauld parish, viii Dunbarton, 1 35 

— house, 1 36 — village, 152 — limeworks, 

vi. Lanark, 244 
Cumberwood, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 
Cumbrae isle and parish, v. Bute, 69 — 

castle, 70 
Cumbrae, Little, isle, v. Ayr, 243, 244, 

269— lighthouse, 270 
Cumhill mhor hill, xiv. Ross, 74 
Cumledge bum, ii. Berwick, 268 
Curaloden cottage, iv. Kirkcudbright, 118, 

134 
Cummertrees parish, iv. Dumfries, 244 — 

burn, 245— villagje, 244, 253 
Cumming village, xiii. Elgin, 38, 40 
Cummin^s cairn, xiv. Inverness, 57 
Cummin's camp, xii Aberdeen, 622 
Cummin's castle, iv. Dumfries, 59-^kirk, 

227 



OEKBBAL IITDBX. 



xlv 



Cumminls trench, xii Aberdeen, 287 
Cumminstown viUage, xiL Aberdeen, 765, 

769 
Cumnock, tpwn of, v. Ayr, 476, -485, 487 
Cumnock, New, parish, t. Ayr, 509 
Cumnock, Old, parish, v. Ayr, 476 
Cumrue loch, iv. DumMes, 67 
Cuniack mount, x v. Sutherland, 105 
Cunnan park, t. Ayr, 350 
Cunner law, iz. Fire, 914 
Cunnigar, the, L Edinbui]^ 373 
Cunningar, soil at, yL Lanark, 257 
Cunninghame distaict of, v. Ayr, 192, 243, 

289,727,798,811 
Cunninghamhead house, v. Ayr, 525 
Cunninghar hill, viii Clackmannan, 66 
Cunningpark farm, v. Ayr, 8 
Cunningsburgh, suppressed parish of, zv. 

Shetland, 93 
Cunnypark property, viii. Stirling, 154 
Cunoquhie house, iz. Fife, 41 
Cumderton, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 259 
Cupar parish and town, ix. Fife, 1— castle, 

4 
Cupar Angus, parish of, z. Perth, 1141--> 

abbey, 1143— town, 1147 
Cuppasetter brough, zv. Shetland, 83 
Cur water, yii. Ai^le, 104 
Curate'ft steps, y. Ayr, 144 
Curate'b well, yi. Lanark, 65 
Curghie bay, iy. Wigton, 201 
Curlee hiU, ill Peebles, 28 
Curling hall, v. Ayr, 810 
Curr hill, iii Roxburgh, 448 
Curreath quarry, y. Ayr, 668 — house, 678 
Currie, parish of^ L Edinbui]g^ 542— 

bridge, 545 — yillage, 543 
Currie house and wood, i. Edinbui^h, 152, 

155,167,173,177 
Ciuriehill castle, i. Edinburgh, 546 
Currymire brickwork, yiii Stirling, 160 
CurryBide collieries, ri. Lanark, 626 
Cushnie, annexed parish of^ xii. Aberdeen, 

1102— bum, 1105— hill, 1103— house, 

1123— property, 1112 
Custom house, Leith, L Edinburgh, 774 
Cutstraw limeworks, y. Ayr, 729 
Cuttieshill inn, xi. Kincs^dine, 243 
Cuttlehill colliery, ix. Fife, 835— house, 

718 
Cuttyfield village, yiii. Stirling, 315 
Cypress grotto, L Edinbur;^h, 332 
Cyrus mount, xi. Kincardme, 270 
Daal loch, yii. Argyle, 645 
Daan bum, xiy. Ross, 437, 438 
Daer water, yi. Xjanark, 329, 942 
Daiglen bum, yiii Clackmannan, 67 
Dail house, yii. Argyle, 54 
Dailly parish, y. Ayr, 381— yillage, 388 
Dailnanceann, batUe of, rii Argyle, 52 
Dairsie parish, ix. Fife, 770— bum, 771 

— castle and property, ib, — cottage, 

772— village, 774 
Dal water, xv. Sutherland, 88 
Dalagich hill, vii Renfrew,. 384 



Dalarran, remains at, iy. Kirkcudbright, 
108 

Dalarrossie, annexed parish o^xiy. Inyer- 
nesB, 97— church. 111 

Dalavich, annexed parish of^ yii Aigyle, 
372 

Dalballie plantations, xiii Elgin, 67 ' 

Dalbeattie yillage, &c iy. Kirkcudbright, 
351, 352, 353 

Dalbeg haugh, yi Lanark, 257 

Dalbliur limeworks, y. Ayr, 328 

Dalbog, remains at, xi FotSbx, 623 

Dalbog, iron at, xi Kincardine, 113 

Dalchallie glen, xi For&r, 421 

Dalcham, rocks at, xy. Sutherland, 171 

Dalchottiie, battle o^ x. Perth, 652 

Dalcross, annexed parish of, xiy. Inyer- 
ness, 444— castle and property, 445, 
463 

Dalcruive bridge, x. Perth, 193 

Daldawn house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 161 

Dalduff castle, y. Ayr, 365 

Dale bridge, xy. Caithness, 78 

Dales' Knap, xi Forfiir, 326 

Dalgain, ancient parish o^ y. Ayr, 126— 
plantations, 132^tiarry, 142 

Dalgamo, annexed pariah o^ iy. Dum- 
fries, 80 

Dalganren village, y. Ayr, 829 

Dalgenross, battle of; x. Perth, 326, 583 
—camps at, 582— village, 590 

Dalgerrock house, y. Ayr, 529 

Dalgety parish, ix. Fife, 181 

Dalquhanachahi district, xy. Caithness, 79 

Dalginch castle, ix. Fife, 665 

Dalgohom printworks, viii Dunbarton, 
234 

Dalgoner bridge, iv. Dumfries, 337 

Dalguise house, x. Perth, 1008— yillage, 
1010 

Dalharrold, stones at, xv. Sutherland, 72 

Dalhoan yillage, y. Ayr, 503 

Dalhonzie bridge, x. Perth, 584 

Dalhousie bum, i Edinburgh, 607— cat- 
tle, &c. ib» 

Dalintober yillage, vii Argyle, 465 

Dalkaimey Hnn, y. Ayr, 335 

Dalkeith parish, i Edinburgh, 451— cas- 
tle, 466— church, 501 — palace, 481,. 
497— town, 461, 497, 507 

Dallachy, ironstone at, xiii Banfl^ 226 — 
property, Elgin, 120 

DidlaUe, rocks at, xi Kincardine, 113 

Dallas parish, xiii Elgin, 195— castle, 19ft 
—loch, 196 

Dallayaird quarry, xi Kincardine, 89 

Dalmahoy hill, i Edinburgh, 77— prcK 
perty and house, 83, 92 

Dalmaik, coins found at, xiii Aberdeen^ 
888 

Dalmakerran, lead at, iv. Dumfries, 474 

Dalmellin house, y. Ayr, 1 70 

Dalmellington parish, v. Ayr, 308 — sce- 
nery at, 8— yillage, 316, 319 

Dalmeny parish, ii IJnlithgow, 90— house 



xlvi 



OEKEBAL INDEX. 



and- park, 91, 95, L Edinburgh, 590, 

591 — village, ii. Linlithgow, 106 
Dalmigavie plantations, xv. InTemeas, 

104 
Dalmonach bleachfield, viiL Dunbarton, 

224 
Dalmony valley, xiv. Inverness, 45 
Dalmore quarry, &c. v. Ayr, 638, 652 
Dalmore harbour, xiv. Ross, 275— -mill, 

271 
Dalmorton, improvements at, v. Ayr, 341 
Dalmounach house, xiii. Elgin, 62 
Dalmuir works, viii. Dunbarton^ 16, 27 — 

bum, 18— village, 29 
Dalmuir quarry, vL Lanark, 884' 
Dalmuir shore works, viii. DunbilHon, 16, 

27— village, 29 
Dalmulin house, v. A3rr, 170 
Dalmyot hill, viii. Stirling, 182, 215, viii. 

Clackmannan, 77 
Dalnulr, trees at, viii Stirling, 102 
Dabmvaird mill, xi. Forfkr, 670 
Dalnavcrt property, xiv. Inverness, 86 
Dalncrn cascade, vii Argyle, 478, 479 
Dalpatrick haugh, vL Lanark, 257 — 

quarry, 725— remains at, 734 
Dalpersie property, xii. Aberdeen, 446 
Dalquharan colliery, v. Ayr, 379, 882 — 

house, &c. 383, 384 
Dalquham bleachiield, viii. Dunbarton, 

245— plantations, 90 
Dalreagle, improvements at, iv. Wigton, 

19 
Dabicket mill, v. Ayr, 517 
Dairy parish, v. Ayr, 210— town, 221, 283 
Dairy, Arran, v. Bute, 20 
Daily parish, iv. Kirkcudbright, 369— 

church, 370 
Dalrymple parish, v. Ayr, 273— village, 

279, 282, 284 
Dalscairth house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
Dalserf parish, vi. Lanark, 719 — ^house, 

729— village, 726, 737, 748 
Dalswinton house, &c. iv. Diunfiies, 55, 

56, 57— village, 61, 65 
Dalton parish, iv. Dumfries, 371 — village, 

ib. 375 
Dalton village, vi Lanark, 431 
Dalton Hook limeworks, iv. Dumfries, 

206, 208— town, 453 
DaltuUch property, xiv. Inverness, 446 
Dalveen property, iv. Dumfries, 327 
Dalvey house, xiii. Elgin, 21 5, 219, 222— 

castle, 222 
Dal what house, iv. Dumfries, 98— water, 

331 
Dalwhinnie, camp at, xiv. Inverness, 424 
Dalyards, ruins at, xiv. Inverness, 470 
Dalyell house, ix. Fife, 8 
Dalzellowby colliery, v. Ayr, 379 
Dalziel parish, vi. I^anark, 443— bum, 

445— house, 444, 447, 453, 957— pro- 
perty, 449 
Daman, skirmish at, xv. Sutherland, 155 
Dame Helen's castle, v. Avr, 315 

3 



Damf loch, xiv. Roa, 100 
Damhead, chapel at, viii Stirling, 335 
Damhead village, x. Perth, 891 
Damiett, see Dalmyot 
Damill, camp on, xii Ab^deen, 499* 
Damsay isle, xv. Orkney, 67— aound, 196 
Damside lochs, x. Perth, 286 
Damyat, see Dalmyot 
Dandaleith vale, xiii Elgin, 228 
Danes' dike, Crail, ix. Fife, 956 
Danevale house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 97 
Dankeith house, v. Ayr, 566, 567 
Dannie's den, xi Kincardine, 282 
Daoire nam mart loch, viii Aigyle, 166 
Dara bum, xii Aberdeen, 763 — ^hiU, 982 
Dara den, ix. Fife, 518 
DarcylB caira, ii. Berwick, 269 
Dardar cascade, xii Aberdeen, 260 
Dargavel house, vii. Renfrew, •507, •613 ' 
Dark mile valley, xiv. Inverness, 119 
Darleith property, viii Dunbarton, 222 
Darhngshaugh village, iii Roxbuivfa, 66, 

67 
Darlington village, v. Ayr, 731, 734 
Darmead linn, &c. vi. Lanark, 608, 623, 

ii. Linlithgow, 76 
Daraaway forest, xiii Elgin, 178, 188, 

215, 218, 224— castle, 180, 215, 222 
Darngaber castle and property, vi. La- 
nark, 269, 270 
Damgate of Arbroath, xi For&r, 78 
Daraley Bridge bleachfield, &c. vii Ren- 
frew, 35, 36 
Damwick village, iii. Roxburgh, 67 
Darochville house, xiv. InveraesB, 16 
Darra hill, xii. Aberdeen, 982 
Darrach hUl, viii. StirHng, 116, 117 
Darvel village, v. Ayr, 849, 850, 851 
Dasher fort, viii. Stirling, 268 
Dasholm, remains at, viii Dunbarton, 

47 
Daugh of EdinvUlie, &c. xiii Banff, 1 1 1 
Davan, battle at, xv. Sutherland. 155 
David's fort, xiv. Inverness, 265 
Davidson's Mains, village of, i Edin- 
burgh, 596, 601 
Davieland limeworks, vii Renfrew, 35 
Da%ington, embankment at, iv. Dumfries, 

409 
Daviot parish, xii. Aberdeen, 821 
Daviot house, &c. xiv. Inverness, 106, 

519 
Daviot and Dunlichity, united parishes of, 

xiv. Inverness, 513' 
Daviston bum, vi. Lanark, 401 
Davo den, xi Kincardine, 23, 29 
Davoch of Annat, xiv. Invemess, 484 
Davoeh of Erchleas, xiv. Inverness, 484 
Davoch of Orange, xiii Banff, 216 
Davochs of the Head, xiv. Inverness, 87 
Dawan loch, xii. Aberdeen, 1071 
Dawhaugh, the, xiii Banff, 27 
Da>>ick, plantations at, iii. Peebles, 72— 

suppressed parish of, 76 
Deacon Hill quarry, v. Ayr, 164 



GENI[BAL INDEX. 



xl 



VII 



Beadmangill cairn, iv. Dumfries, 445 
Ueadmeirs holm, the, v. Ayr, 761 
Deadriggs cross, ii. Berwick, 56 
Deddwater well, iii. Roxburgh, 442 
DealganroBS, suppressed parish of, xiv. In- 
verness, 444 
Dealgin Ross, battle of, x. Perth, 326, 583 
Deals^ voc, xv. Shetland, 68 
Dean bum, ii Linlithgow, 122 
Dean castle, v. Ayr, 537, 541 
Dean, ironstone at, ii. Haddington, 176 
Dean bridge, i. Edinburgh, 619, 646— 

church, 665 
Dean river, xi. Forfar, 165, 209, 337, 338, 
343, 475, 670, 675, 691, x. Perth, 233 
Deans crook, the, xiii. Elgin, 95 
Deans village, vi. Lanark, 431 
Deanside brae, vL Lanark, 106 
Deanston factories, vi Lanark, 148 
Deanston house and village, x. Perth, 

1232, 1239— works, 1233 
Deanston village, v. Ayr, 734 
Deaothack water, xiv. Inverness, 485 
Deam, shath, xiv. Inverness, 98 
Dearg, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 83 
Debateable lands, the, iv. Dumfries, 264 
Dechmont law, ii Linlithgow, 115, vi Lor 

nark, 417 — remains on, 430 
Dee river, xii Aberdeen, 1, 2, 5, 64, 106, 
648, 676, 781, 832, 874, 1049, 1050, 
xiii Elgin,l37,xi Kincardine, 170, 174, 
178, 190, 195, 199, 206, 231, 324, 328 
— linn 0^ xii Aberdeen, 648 — fish- 
eries, xi. Kincardine, 231 
Dee loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 119 — river, 
3, 38, 64, 65, 110, 118, 146, 179, 191, 
192, 200, 282 
Deebridge village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 188 
Deechoid hill, vii Aigyle, 516 
Decpshank colliery, v. Ayr, 439 
Deepsykehead quarry, iii. Peebles, 155 
Deer abbey, xii. Aberdeen, 143— hill, 315 
Deer, camp of, iv. Dumfries, 95 
Deer, New, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 175 
Deer, Old, parish o^ xii Aberdeen, 138 
Deer ness, xv. Orkney, 170 — sound, 169, 

170,172 
Deer-dike of Oarvock, xi. Kincardine, 34, 

129 
Deerlaw hill, iii. Selkirk, 40 
Deemess, quoad sacra parish of^ xv. Ork- 
ney, 189 
Deer\i forest, the, xiv. Invemras, 445, 449 
Deeside Agricultural Association, xi Kin- 
cardine, 351 
Deirs causeway, vi. Lanark, 47? 
Deirs dike, iv. Wigton, 282 
DeiPs knap, xi. Forfer, 326 
Deirg fort, xiv. Invemen, 266 
Deirg, mount, xiv. Ross, 74, 75 
De la Beaute'B field, ii Berwick, 269 
Delfour, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 87 
Delflfield, manufactory at, v. Lanark, 157 
Delgatty ca«tle,&c. xii. Aberdeen, 991,994 
Delgaty hUl, xiii Banfi^ 150 



Dellagyle, cave at, xiii. Elgin, 60 

Delting parish, xv. Shetland, 56 

Delvine house, x. Perth, 676 

Delvorich village, x. Perth, 1240 

Demyatt, see Dalmyot 

Den of Afforsk, xiii Banff, 273 

Den of Airlie, xi Forfiir, 671, 675 

Den of Balniddery, xi Forfar, 569, 571, 

576 
Den of Boddam, xii. Aberdeen, 356 
Den of Bummouth, ii. Berwick, 1 33 
Den of Craig, xii. Aberdeen, 408 
Den of Crovie, xiii Banff, 273 
Den of Cullycan, xiii Banff, 273 
Den of Dara, ix. Fife, 518 
Den of Davo, xi. Kincardine, 23, 29 
Den of Dundee, xi. For&r, 5 
Den of Dunglass, ii. Berwick, 291 
Den of Dura, ix. Fife, 720, 721, 921 
Den of Fowlis, xi Forfar, 461 
Den of Gray, xi Forfar, 577 
Den of Ouynd, xi Forfar, 352, 358 
Den of Howie, xii. Aberdeen, 147 
Den of Letham, xi. For&r, 147 
Den of Oldhaven, xiii. Banff, 273 
Den of Pease, ii. Berwick, 291 
Den of Peattie, xi Kincardine, 3 
Den of Rothie, xii Aberdeen, 319 
Den bum, ii Linlithgow, 122 
Denbum, copper ore at, x. Perth, 336 
Dendoldrum farm, xi. Kincardine, 21 
Denend village, xi. Forftir, 562 
Denfenella, xi. Kincardine, 23, 79, 272, 

282 
Denhead collieries, ix. Fife, 475 — village, 

307 
Denhead village, xi. Forfar, 586 
Denholm den, iii Roxburgh, 355 — hill, 

&c. 21 0— village, 432, 435 
Denmark stone, x. Perth, 175 
Denmiln mill, xiForfar, 578— village, 586 
Denmore house, xii Aberdeen, 1076 
Denniss ness, xv. Orkney, 104 
Denny parish, viii. Stirling, 115— curling 
club, &c 124— distillery, 130— town, 
115,122,131 
Denny bridge village, viii Stirling, 115 
Dennyfem, remains at, xi Forftir, 689 
Denny Lonehead village, viii. Stirling, 

122, 132, 133 
Denoon bum, xi. Forfiir, 338— ^len, 339 

—castle, 297, 345 
Denovan print-works, viii Stirling, 384— 

property, 120— village, 385 
Dercleuch loch, v. Ayr, 334 
Derculich house, x. Perth, 769 
Dergan water, vii. Argyle, 479 
Deskford parish, xiii. Bantf, 63— bum, 64 

—tower, 68. 
Deskie chapel, xiii Banfi; 133 
Deskry water, xii. Aberdeen, 416, 525, 

530, 1071 
Dess bum, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 1049, 1058 
D'Esse'B wark, i Edinburgh, 277 
Deuchar house, &c. xi Forfar, 313, 315 



•xlviii 



OENEBAL INDEX. 



Deuchar bridge, iii. Selkirk, 30— chapel, 

29 
Deucharhope hill, iii. Selkirk, 38 
Deuchar swire, iiL Selkirk, 47 
Deugh water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 3, 4, 110, 

273, 369 
Devano, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 734 
Derar isle, vii. Ar|p;yle, 455 
Deveron river, xii. Aberdeen, 274, 598, 

599, 982, 1036, xiii Banff, 1, 2, 41,46, 

84, 103, 145, 148, 198, 200, 204, 275, 

279, 382 
DevU'8 mill, x. Perth, 302 
Devon ironworks, viii. Clackmannan, 124, 

128— river, 7, 67, 78, 80, 121, 122, 

Stirling, 176, 216, 306, x. Perth, 297, 

298, 301, 303, 333, 1016, 1018~ 

crook of, 302, 303 
Devon hill colliery, vi, Lanark, 258 
Devonahaw hill, vi Lanark, 806 — camp 

on, 817 
Devonride colliery, viii. Clackmannan, 69 

—village^ 73 
Dewar giU, iiL Peebles, 27 
Dewar hill, i. Edinburgh, 198 
Dewarton village, i Edinburgh, 183 
Dews loch, XL Kincardine, 245 
Dheaick water, xiv. Inverness, 363 
Dheirrig castle, vii. Aigyle, 111 
Dhruim of Beauly, xiv. Inverness, 364 
Dhu hill, viii. Dunbarton, 156 
Dhu loch and bum, xii. Aberdeen, 775 
Dhu loch, V. Bute, 99 
Dhu loch, XV. Caithness, 123 
Dhu craig hill, x. Perth, 1096 
Dhuisk water, v. Ayr, 528 
Dichmountlaw hill, xi. For£Eir, 491 
Dighty water, xi. Forfar, 55, 455, 456, 

539,569,591,648,649 
Digmore harbour, xiv. Inverness, 161 
Dillavaird miU, xL Forfar, 670 
Dillichip printworks, viiL Dunbarton, 225 
Dilred castle, xv. Sutherland, 143 
Dilty moss, xi. For&r, 208, 332, 352 
Dinard loch, xv. Sutherland, 87 — strath 

and water, 84, 87 
Dingwall parish, xiv. Ross, 210— frith, 

399— town, 211, 219, 228 
Dingwall^ tomb, xiv. Ross, 460 
Dingy 's how, the, xv. Orkney, 1 79 
Dinlabjrre plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 441 

—water, 442 
Dinmurchy house, v. Ayr, 409 
Dinnet bum, xii. Aberdeen, 1049-- mill, 

1062 
Dinsdykes, the, vi Lanark, 374 
Dinwiddie hill, iv. Dumfries, 170— camp 

on, 183 
Dionard water, xv. Sutherland, 215 
Dippen head, v. Bute, 41 
Dipple, suppressed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 

51 
Dippool bum, vL Lanark 85 — collieries, 77 
Dirk Hatteraick'b cave, iv. KuVcxidbi\%VvV 
316 



Dirleton parish, ii. Haddington, 202 — 
castle, 208 — property, 207— village, 
203,212,213,216 
IHrlot crag and castle, xv. Caithnea, 72 

— mission, 78 
Dirrington hills, ii Berwick, 42, 94 
Dim loch and rock, xv. Su^erland, 169 
Dim Moir forest, xv. Sutherland, 123 
Disblair house, xii Aberdeen, 168 
Discomfit bum, iv. Dumfries, 70 
Distincthom hill, v. Ayr, 179 
Ditch haU, the, x. Perth, 551 
Divach water and &lls, xiv. Invemeas, 39 
Divie water, xiii Elgin, 179, 182, 191 
Dobson^ well, ii Haidd^gton, 4 
Dochart loch, x. Perth, 1080— water, 454, 

705, 1079, 1080— glen, 1077 
Dochfour house, xiv. Inverness, 16— •loch, 

8 
Dochgarroch bum, xiv. Inverness, 6 
Dochnaluig bum, xiv. Inverness, 6 
Dockie chapel, xi Fotfrff, 542 
Dod hill, iii Iloxbuigh, 441 — remains at , 

433 
Dodds miU, ii Berwick, 848, 349 
Dodds Corse stane, ii Berwick, 358 
Dodhead hill, iii. Peebles, 135 
Dodhill lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 800 
Doecleugh castle, iii Roxbuigh, 488 
Dogden moss, ii Berwick, 63 
Dogrow of Renfrew, vii. Renfrew, 12 
Dogs^ isle, xiv. Invemess, 423 
Dogtown, stone at, ix. Fiife, 197 
Doine loch, x. Perth, 345 
Doll glen, xi.*Forfiir, 439 
Dollar parish, viii. Clackmannan, 76, 141 
--bum, 77— colliery, 82— hill, 77— in- 
stitution, 94 — mineral spring, 80, x. 
Perth, 1018 — village, viii. Clackman- 
nan, 78, 87, 110 
Dollar law, iu. Peebles, 110, 1 17 
Dollarbura tower, iii Peebles, 116 
Dollars house, v. Ayr, 610 
Delias, see Dallas 
DoUerie house, x. Perth, 749 
Dolls distillery, viii Stirling, 230 
Dolphinston, ruins at, ii. Haddington, 31 1 
Dolphinston tower, iii. Roxburgh, 260 
Dolphinton parish, vi Lanark, 49 — hill, 

49, 848, 953 
Dolt hill, iv. Wigton, 201 
Dominican monastery, Ayr, v. Ajt, 36 
Dominican monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 

64 
Dominican monastery, St Andrews, ix 

Fife, 468 
Dominican monastery, Stirling, viii Stir- 
ling, 423 
Dominican monastery, Wigton, ir. Wig- 
ton, 3 
Don river, xii Aberdeen, 1, 2, 120, 166, 
168, 408, 415, 416, 436, 440, 459, 486, 
491, 525, 528, 550, 631, 635, 655, 818, 
^^bA^'i.^>^o^Baaff> 123 



GBinUUL IKDBX. 



xlix 



Donald^ tomh, xiL Aberdeen, 570 
Donaldson^ hospital, i. Edinbuigh, 736 
Donan castle, xiv. Ross, 176, \92 
Donan fidr, xil Aberdeen, 2^2 
Donibristle house, ix. Fife, 1 88 
Donkins limeworks, iv. Dumfries, 282 
Don LamorecklB tower, iii. Roxbuigh, 

388, 392 
Donnan castle, xiv. Ross, 176, 192 — isle, 

170 
Dool trees, the, v. Ajt, 336 
Doomster hill, vi. Lanark, 690 
Doon hill of Maxwelton, iv. Dumfries, 473 
Doon hill of Dunbar, ii. Haddington, 224, 

225— baUle, 226— camp on, 227 
Doon loch, T. Ayr, 308, 309, 310, 338, 

334— river, 2, 7, 14, 51, 273, 275, 308, 

310, 333, 334, 349, 350, 494 
Doon of Kilmorie, v. Bute, 61 
Doon of Tynron, ir. Dumfries, 473, 474 
Doonholm house, v. Ayr, 4, 16 
Doonside castle, y. Ayr, 365 — ^house, 275 
Dorback water, xiii. Elgin, 182, 191 
Dores castle, xL Forfar, 643 
Dores parish, xiv. Inremess, 373 
Dorholm rock, xt. Shetland, 72 
Dormont hope, iiL Roxbuigh, 191 
Dormont house, iv. Dumfries, 205, 372, 

374 
Domagilla'^ tower, xt. Sutherland, 93 
Domal castle, v. Ayr, 325— loch, 529 
Domell well, v. Ayr, 246 
Domie bay, xiv. Ross, 172— village, 176, 

178 
Dornoch parish and town, xv. Sutherland, 

1— casUe, 15— frith, 15, 212, 215, xiii. 

Elgin, 147, xiv. Ross, 281, 282, 434, 

436, 460 
Domock parish, iv. Dumfries, 256— vil- 
lage, 256, 257 
Dorral bum, xiiL Elgin, 196 
Dorrory, district of, xv. Caithness, 68 
Dorus mor strait, viL Argyle, 47 
Dosk, suppressed parish of, xi. Forfiur, 623 
Double dikes camp, vL Lsmark, 471 
Double hill, xi Forfitr, 597 
Douchfour bum^ xiv. Inve rn es s ^ 4 — 

loch, 8 
Douglas bum, vii. Argyle, 7, 8 
Douglas bum, viiL Dunbarten, 94, 96, 234 
Douglas parish, vL Lanark, 475— bum, 

5, 31, 478, 479, 517, 519, 944-^casae, 

478, 481, 487, 957— collieries, 480— 

mill, 478— tower, 788— town, 485, 489 
Douglas bum, iii Selkirk, 46 
Douglas mill, Sorn, v. Ayr, 143 
Douglas moor, vi Lanarx, 327 
Douglas property, xi Forfiur, 846 
Douglas room, Stirling, viii Stirling, 404 
Douglas tragedy, scene of, iii Selkirk, 46 
Douglasbrae quarry, xiii. Banff, 390 
Douglaspark house, vi Lanark, 784, 958 
Douglastewn mills, xi Forfitf, 218, 224— 

village, 225 
Douloob, fit Argyle, 5— eislle^ 25 

VOL. XV, 



Doon hill of Criech, xv. Sutherland, 18 
Doun hill of Duneam, xiii Nairn, 9% 
Doun hill of Inveraochty, xii. Aberdeen, 

544 
Doun hill of Luss, viii Dunbarton, 231 
Doun hill of Relugas, xiii. Elgin, 185 
Doun hill of Roxbuif^ iii Roxburgh, 128 
Doune castle, x. Perth, 1227, 1229— vil- 
lage, 1240 
Doune, farm of, viii. Dunbarton, 94 
Doune house, xiii Elgin, 141 
Doum'eston bleachfield, v. Ayr, 318 
Dour bum, xii Aberdeen, 258, 260 
Doura colliery, v. Ayr, 813, 829— village, 

829 
Doury bum, xi Kincardine, 304 
Dovan, see Devon 
Dove cave, xiii Banff, 179 
Dovecot, sprinff at, viii Stirling, 147 
Dovecotamins hill, ii Berwick, 199 
Dovecothall village, &c vii Renfrew, 190, 

200, 249, 330, 336 
Dovecotwood house, viii Stirling, 148 
Doveran, see Deveron 
Dovesland village, vii Renfrew, 200 
Dow glen, vii. Ar^jyle, 474 
Dow well, iii Peebles, 26 
Dowal loch, xiv. Ross, 107 
Dowally parish, x. Perth, 993 — ^bura and 

village, 995. 996 
Dowalton loch, iv. Wigton, 11, 22, 24, 41 
Dowalty hill, xi Kincardine, 326 
Dowglen bum, iv. Dumfries, 430 
Dowhill ferm, v. Ayr, 352 
Dowhill house, ix. Kinross, 41 
Dowie dens of Yarrow, the, iii Selkirk, 46 
Dowloch of Penpont, iv. Dumfries, 504 
Down hill, ii Haddington, 71 
Down hill, x. Per«i, 1017 
Down hill of Fmtry, viii Stirling, 41 
Downan bridge, &c. xiii Banff, 133, 139 
Downans hills, v. Ayr, 496 
Downby, remains at, xv. Orkney, 58 
Downeas harbour, xi Kincardine, 178, 184 
Downfield Mil, camp on, ix. Fife, 105 
Downie castle, xiv. Invemess, 496 
Dowaie head, xi. Kincardine, 214 
Downie hills, xi Forfkr, 485 
Downiepark house, xi Forfru-, 199 
Downies village, xi Kincardine, 184 
Dowry bum, xi Kincardine, 299, 304 
Draffim castle, ix. Fi«B, 365 
Dragon hole, x. Perth, 935, 1207 
Drainie parish, xiii. Elgin, 145 
Drakemire, the, xi Forfar, 294 
Drakemire village, v. Ayr, 220 
Dranandrow moor, remains on, iv. Wig- 
ton, 233 
Dream of Glass, xiv. Invemess, 488 
Dreel bum, ix. Fife, 339, 612, 616 
Dreghom castle, i Edinburgh, 108, 120 
Dreghom parish, v. Ayr, 523 — villa^ie^ 

526 
I)Te\g|K w«to. Vi. 'ftwcm^.Va ^"^^ 



1 



aSKEBAL INDEX. 




Drem, barony of, il Haddington, 46— re- 
mains at, 50 
Dreva, moat at, vi. Lanark, 362 
Drimachter forest, xiv. InTemeaB, 420 
Drimcavil flax mill, vi Lanark, 401 
Drimcudden property, xiv. Rosb, 48 
Drimdriiaaig hou§e, vii Aigyle, 262 
Drimmashie moor, xiv. Inverness, 514 
Drimmie house, xi Forfer, 608 
Drimmie forest, x. Perth, 908— house, 

408— snabs, 406 
Drimmies hiU, xii. Aberdeen, 677 
Drimniin castle, vii. Argyle, 184 
Drimree, battle of, vii. Argjle, 51 
Drimsynie house, vii. Arg}'Ie, 712 
Drimvuick house, vii. Argyle, 501 
Drimyeonb^ bay, >'ii. Argyle, 396 
Diinlea, battle at, xv. Sutherland, 18 
Drip bridge, viii. Stirling, 322 
Dripps property, vii. Renfrew, 495 
Prochaid an aogh rocks, xiv. Roas, 281 
prochil castle, iii. Peebles, 137, 161 
Droichholes castle, iii. Peebles, 161 
Droichsbiun, xii. Aberdeen, 1105 
Dron parish, x. Perth, 862 — chapel, 408 

—hill, 406 
Drongan collieries, v. Ayr, 1 17, 638, 639 

—house, &c. 641, 643 — mains, 642 
Drongs rock, xv. Shetland, 71 
Dronly bum and village, xi. Forfar, 649 

—plantations, 653 
Dronochy cross, x. Perth, 1173, 1174 
Druidhm of Glass, the, xiv. Inverness, 488 
Druidil>eg loch, xiv. Inverness, 185 
Druid's bridge, vii. Arjj} le, 98 
Druid's hill, iii. Peebles, 146 
Druid's stone, vii. Renfrew, 367 
Druie water, xiii. Elgin, 138 
Druimadc'obhan, tnulition regarding, xiv. 

Inverness, 468 
Druimadhiuiipuil, remains at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 56 
Druimnacoup, caims at, xv. Sutherland, 

176 
Druimnan caiman, the, xiv. Ross, 146 
Drum bum, viii. Stirling, 148— fort, 268 
Drum fort, xii. Aberdeen, 887— hill, 873 
—house, 888— loch, 875, 876— pro- 
perty, 888 
Drum house, i. Edinburgh, 1 1 
Drum loch, xi. Kincardine, 325 
Dmm moss, viii. Dunbarton, 183 
Drum of Kinnell, xL Forfar, 399 
Dmm of Knockman, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

Dmmachargan hill, x. Perth, 725 
Drumalbin hill, vl Lanark, 518, 520 
Dmmaw camp, ii. Berwick, 1 34 
Dmmbeg house, viii. Stirling, 291 
Dmmbej;, remains found at, v. Ayr, 366* 
Dmmbeg rock, x. Perth, 351 
Dmmblade parish, xii. Aberdeen, 297 
Dmmblair house, xii. Aberdeen, 601 
li«»«^broider hill, viii. Stirling, 209 
hurle plantations, v. Ayr, 384 



Drumbum village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 253 
Drumcarro hill, ix. Fife, 304, 520 
Dmmchatt, battle at, xiv. Ross, 255 
Dmmclie loch, x. Perth, 673, 1003 
Dmmclog, battle of, v. Ayr, 837, vL La- 
nark, 304 
Drumcoth law, xi. Forfar, 314 
Drumcottran tower, i v. Kirkcudbright, 220 
Drumderfit farm, xiv. Ross, 60— hill, 384 
Drumderg hill, xv. Sutherland, 191 
Drumdouan, remains at, xii Aberdeen, 

1059— house, 1094 
Drumdow, coal at, v. Ayr, 639 
Dmmdriy bum, xv. Caithness, 131 
Drumduan house, xiii. Elgin, 1 68 
Drumfin house, vii. Arg)'le, 355 
Drumgeith property, xi. ForfiM*, 21 
Drumglye village, xi. Forfar, 347 
Drumdoon, cave at, v. Bute, 49 
Drumin castle, &c. xiii. Banff, 125, 133 
Druminner house, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 409, 

4U 
Drumkilbo house, x. Perth, 235 
Drumlamford house, v. Ayr, 529 
Dmmlanrig castle, &c. iv. Dumfries, 306, 

322, 327, 502, 503, 506 
Drumlaw, tumulus at, vi. I^anark, 383 
Drumlawhinnie cairn, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

131 
Drumley house, v. Ayr, 757 
Drumley sands, xi. Forfar, 540 
Drumlithie village, xi. Kincardine, 25, 168 
Drumlochan burn, xiii. Nairn, 27 
Drumlochy castle, x. Perth, 915 
Drumloft*, Roman road at, iv. Dumfries, 

475 
Drummellan, remains at, v. Ayr, 353 
Dmmnielzier parish, iii. Peebles, 71— 

place, 73 
Drummidoon cliffs, v. Bute, 41 
Drummietermon village, xi. Forfar, 152 
Dmmmillan park colliery, viii Stirling, 

242 
Dnimmilling property, v. Ajt, 255 
Dnimmine forest, xiii. Elgin, 178 
Dmmmochy village, ix. Fife, 442 
Drummond castle, x. Perth, 320, 321 — 

gardens, 317— hiU, 532 — house, 497 

—loch, 314 
Drummond hills, xiv. Inverness, 418 
Drummossie moor, xiv. Inverness, 514 
Drumnadrochit inn, xiv. Inverness, 38 
Dmmnamurg property, xiv. Ross, 65 
Drumnod, remains found at, ix. Fife, 544 

— farm, 551 
Dmmoak parish, xii. Aberdeen, 872 
Drumore loch, v. Ayr, 493 
Dcumore bav, iv. Wigton, 201 — castle, 

201, 208— property, 205— village, 200, 

201,215 
Dmmpellier collieries, &.c. vi. Lanark, 

644, 648 
Dmmquhaple park, viii. Stirling, 102 
Dmmrack hill, ix. Fife, 942 
Dmmry chapel, viii. Dunbarton, 48 



QKBEBAL INDEX. 



li 



Drum's cairn, xli. Aberdeen, 425 
Drum's stone, xii. Aberdeen, 882, 1098 
Drumsargart castle and property, vi La- 
nark, 425, 429 
Drumshang, renuuns found at, v. Ayr, 

366 — ^improvements at, 369 
Drumsharg barony, vi. Lanark, 425 
Drumshorlan moor, il. Linlithgow, 87 
Drumsleed wood, xi. Kincardine, 77 
Drumsturdy village, xi. Forfar, 549 
Drumsuy chapel, v. Ayr, 655 — property, 

653 — quarry, 659 
Drumtochty castle, xi. Kincardine, 72, 

77,88 
Drumvaich village, x. Perth, 1240 
Drumyellow quarry, xi. Forfar, 495 
Drunkie house, x. Perth, 1108 — loch, 

1097,1151 
Dry harbour, xiv. Inverness, 219 
Dry borough property, viiL Stirling, 120 
Dryburgh abbey, iii. Roxburgh, 104, iL 

Berwick, 27— bridge, 31 
Dry burn, remains at, xiii. Elgin, 119 
Dry bum water, iL Haddington, 71 
Dryfe water, iv. Dumfries, 170, 171, 378, 

451, 452, 537 
Dryfeholm, Roman road at, iv. Dumfries, 

184 
Dryfesands, battle of, iv. Dumfries, 158, 

340, 453 
Dryfesdale, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 451 
Dr3rfesdale gate, camp at, iv. Dumfries, 

454 
Drygrange bridge, ii. Berwick, 32, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 142 
Dryhope bum, iii. Selkirk, 38 — ^tower, 46 
Dryine mineral spring, xiv. Ross, 215 
Dr^nnen parish, viii. Stirling, 99 — village, 

102, 110— bridge, Dunbarton, 213, 217 
Drynie property, xiv. Ross, 59 
Drysdale, see Dryfesdale 
Dualt glen, viii. Stirling, 61 
Duard head, xiv. Ross, 74 
Duart bay, vii. Argyle, 281 — castle, 286 
Dubbs, remains at, v. Ayr, 454 — water, 

692 
Dubbs water, vii. Renfrew, 82, 538 
Dubbyaide village, ix. Fife, 274 
Dubs caldron fall, iv. Dumfries, 140 
Duchall house, viL Renfrew, 47, 58— 'Wa* 

ter, 57 
Duchoille castle, vii. Argyle, 96 
Duchrae house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 84 
Duchray colliery, v. Ayr, 651 
Duchray hill and loch, x. Perth, 995 — 

— water, 1152 
Duchray water, viii. Stirling, 101— castle, 

102 
Duckpool, the, iii. Peebles, 86 
Ducraig isle, ix. Fife, 827, 828 
Duddingston parish, i. Edinburgh, 381-^ 

church, 388— cottage, 390— house, 389 

—loch, 382, 620— villages, 388, 390, 

393 
Duddingston house, ii. Linlithgow, 27 



Dudhope castle, xl Forfar, 21 

Dud*s well, vi. Lanark, 565 

Dudwick house, xii. Aberdeen, 906 

Duff bum, iv. Dumfries, 152 

Duff house and grounds, xii Aberdeen, 

278, xiii Banff, 3, 14, 32 
Dufilown limeworks, xiii. Banff, 127— 

village, 106, 108 
Duifris parish, xiii. Elgin, 33— castle, 33, 
36— Rmiic stone, 248— village, 38, 40 
Dugalstone loch and grounds, viii. Dun- 
barton, 37, 40 — property, 45 
Dugden moss, ii. Berwick, 41, 42 
Duglas bum, viii. Dunbarton, 156 
Duich ferry, xiv. Invemess, 140 
Duich loch, xiv. Ross, 170, 181, 182, 185 
Duirinish parish, xiv. Inverness, 322 
Duirinish isle, vii. Argyle, 469 
Duke^ bowling green, viiL Dunbarton, 106 
Duke's hospital, vi. Lanark, 291 
Dulcie bridge, &c. xiii. Nairn, 27, 32 
Dule tree of Cassilis, v. Ayr, 499 
Dull parish, x. Perth, 752— abbey, 765— 

rock, 753— village, 770 
DuIIarg, spring at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 282 
DuUatur bog, viii. Dunbarton, 141, 142, 

StirUng, 1 40 
Dullen water, xiii. Banff, 103, 110 
Dulnan bum and valley, xiii. Banff, 1 1 2» 

Elgin, 124, 125 
Dulnanside forest, xiii. Elgin, 12& 
Dulzellowlie colliery, v. Ajrr, 785 
Dumbarrow hill, xi. Forfi&r, 142, 144 
Dumbarton, see Dunbarton 
Dumbennan, ancient parish of^ xii. Aber- 
deen, 1036 
Dumbie's knowe, coins found at, x. Perth^ 

177 
Dumb Laird's tower, viii. Stirling, 81 
Dumbriels law, x. Perth, 953 
Dumbroch bleachfield and house, viiL 

Stirling, 82— loch, 73 
Dumbuck hill, viiL Dunbarton, 17, 36— 

village, 29 
Dumcneff bridge, iv. Dumfries, 135 — 

plantations, 110 
Dumfin, remains found at, viii. Dunbar- 
ton, 159, 161 
Diunfoyn hill, viii. Stirling, 81 
Dumfries house, v. Ayr, 324, 482 
Dumfries parish and town, iv. Dumfries, 

1 — castle, 5 
Dumfriesshire, observations on, iv. Dum- 
fries, 567 
Dumglow hill, ix. Kinron, 38 — camp on, 

41 
Dumgoyn hill, viii. Stirlii^, 81 
Dumgree, suppressed parish of, iv. Dum- 
fries, 133, 151 
Dun parish, xL Forfar, 123 — house, 125 
Dun of Boreland, iv. Kirkcudbright, 53 
Dun of Castletown, iiL Roxburgh, 441 
Dun of Dull, X. Perth, 768 
Dun of Farr, xv. Sutherland, 66 
Dun of Fintry, viii. Stirling, 41 



aEBBBAL UIDKX. 



Dun of Kilinorie, *. Bute, 51 
Dun of Maxwelton, iv. Dumfiiu, 473 
Dun of Muck, liv. Invmi«», Ijl 
Dun of Relugaa, liii. Klgin, lU.i 
DunofTynron,iv, Ilumfrifla, 473,474 
Dunwhton property, xiv. Inierntat, B6 

— quanj, 84 
Dnnagoil ba;. t. Bute, 83 
" *,e70 



Dunallucug, ut. Rom, 448 

Dunan head, lir. Rna, 74 

DuDan Aula, TJL JUgj)e, 63 

Donan bruaig, vlL Arple, 68 

I>unaQ Ranooch, battle at, x. IVfth, 646 

Dunaiu hooae, rii. Ar^li!, 673 

Dunarilu7 hill, til Argyle, 633 

Dunavcrty bay, vii. Ar^le, 414— CMUe, 

423-rill»ge. 431 
Dunbiin, liir, Invtmma, li3 
Dunbar puidi and town, a. Haddiiwton, 

ro^baitlca of, J5, 22i— cutla, 74, 77 

— church, tS — hoiuc, 80 
Dnbamy faiiab, x. Perth, 7S0—nIiage, 

DunlNirplncaii;. xi/, liivcmcH, Jtili 
DunlmiTowliJII, iL Potfiir, ii 
Dimbjutxin puriah and town, viiL Dun- 
barton, 1— eaatle, 2, 4_moor, 21S— 
quarries, 3 
Dunborton»liire,obBerYHtionBOn, viiL Dun- 
barton, 2'20 
Dunbeath caitle, xv. Caithntw, 91_fiih- 

erie*, 101 — property, HI!, 99 water 

and Hrath, tl4, 8G 
Dunbhmmcrain, the, liv. Inverness, 26C 
Dunblane parish, x. Perth. 103H— cathe- 
dral, 1040— spring, 1U3H 
DunbochaMtil, ruini of, i. Perth, 354 
Dunbog patJah, in. Fifis, 205— property 

and bouM, 2118 
Dunborvoraig, the, vii. Argjle, 670 
Duncanlaw chapel, iL Haddington, UB " 
Duncnnsbav.iv. Csithniw, 23— hMd,&c 

•*.— Boare, aa 
Duncan's height, xv. Orkney, I7fl 
Duncan ■» shade, li. Kineaniine, 36 
Dun Chulovray, in. Una, 163 
Dunehifie, »iL Argj'le, 4U0 
l>unthuiiiich hiti, viL Argrk', ■J—ttiit on, 

I>unâ„¢l property, is. DumtVica.67 
Duncomb bill, liil Dunbnrton, 17 
Dunciiir bum, ir. Dumfries, 64 — pro- 
perty, J7— village. «S 
Duncruil hnuc, x. Perth, 716 
Duiicruin hill, tiil Duiiharliin, 212 
Duncruire village, ». Perth, 881 
Duncrj-ne hill, viii, Uunloiton, BI2 
Dunda/ hnn, vL Lanikrk, 5 
Dundnfl" hills, viii. Stirling. 38, .ll)4_]nth 
*n<I inoor, 293 — property, 3'i3 
/'iKiifiirdjI hjjl, xiv. InvtnW 519 



Dundas eaatle, iL UnUdvnr, 100— hilL 
90 

bundaviot hill, xiv. InvemeK, 61d 
Dundee, town of, a. Forfht, 1 — Uir, 1 , 5, 15 
Dundc-e and Nevtyle niloay, li FotW 

40, 483, 561, 56£. G53, x. Peith, 34G 
Dundeirg, the, liv. Inveme^ 266 
Ihin Dhabhidh, xit. Invernen, 266 
Dundonald castle, vii. Argyle, 384 
Dundonald piuiiih, v. Ayr, 66S caaCk:, 

667, B72, 675- village 607, 883 
Dundonald eoUierj, ii. Fife, 170 
Dundonnell houBi;,&c xiv. R«a, 74, 76, 

63,64 
Dundony lite, lii. Aberdevn, 345 
Dun DoraigiU, xiv. Sutherlaod, 93 
Dundrennan ^bej, iv, Kirfccudbriglil, 

337, 362— house, 365— vallej, 36U 

villa^ 357, 359 
Dundroich hill, lii. Peebles, 146 
Dunduff, camp at, t. ,\yr, 365 — cBstU^ 

Uiiiiduriiuih caalle, vii. Atsjit, 705 
Dundurcoi, nppreaed pahdi U, xiiL 

Banfi; 356, Elain, 334— chDidl. SM 

-vale, 228 
Dundyvan iron-iforka, rt. UnMk, 648, 

658— village, 652 
Ouneam camp, ii. Fift,'*ll— tiiH, 403, 

408— loch, 107 
IhineHloD water, vL Lanark, 497, 498, 

Diincmarle castle, x. Perth, 660 
I)uni-vaijhai.xiv.lnY6mesB,fil9 
DunfalUindy, monumeni at, x. Perth, 699 
Dunfemilino pariah and tovo, ii, Fife, 

821— abbey 857 
Dunfion fort, xiv. Inveincai, 489 
I>untiunn, jemains On, v. Bute, 24 
Dun Fordii farm, xi. Foc&r, 621 
Dunpvel liill, vi. Luiark, 93, 30 1 
Dnngeardal fbrta, xiv. Invemea, S6 
Dungeon loch, iv. Kirkcudhrigjit, 1 10 
Dungeon of Douglas, vi Lanark, 468 
DuogUas bum, ii. Haddington, 357 _ 

bridgea, Berwick, 31 1— dran, 2U1. 298, 

300— <»mp at, 303— houieand wood*, 

301, 3U3 
Dunglais castle, viii. Dun barton, 22 
Dunglass hill, viii. Stirling, ta 
Dungoioh hill, viii. Stirling, 72— standina 

stones, 82 
Dungyle hill, i>. Kirkcudbright, 145 

fort, 153 
Dunhead of Cannvhe, li. Forfcr, 368 
Dunian hill, iil, Kuilmrgh, 1 , 2UU, 283,46<l 
Dunn hill, vii, Ai«yl<'.3l4 
Jiujiino pnriah, ii. Fife, 3S6-law. ii. 365 
Dunipnce pariah. viiL Stirling. 364, 379 

—hills. 379— houBi', 382 
Ihiniphail rastle, liiL KIgin. 184 
Dunira house, x. Perth, 584 
Duiikeld cmhcdnU, x. Perth, 976, 967— 

Vnlin, Wu-^. «JV,», mo— htiilop, 991— 



QBirSBAL IVDBX. 



Uii 



Dunkeld and Dowally poriih, z. Perth, 

958 
Dunkeld, Little, parish, x. Perth, 1005 
Dunlappie, annexed parish of, xL Forfitf, 

662 
Dunlecatti hill, xiv. InvemesB, 613 
Dunliath, xiv. Inremest, 266 
Dunlichity, annexed parish o^ xiy. InTer- 

neas, 513 — church, 521 
Dunlop parish, ▼. Ayr, 288— •hill and 

castle, t5.--houBe, 294— village, 302 
Dunloskin loch, vii. Argyle, 583 
Dunlugas house, xiii. Banff, 146, 164 
Dunmaglas property, xiv. Inverness, 615 
Dunman hill, iv. Wigton, 203, 207 
Dunmanjm chapel, iii. Peebles, 101 
Dunmhiraonail, vii. Argyle, 68 
Dunmoor market, xL For&r, 270 
Dunmore harbour, viiL Stirling, 28 Im- 
park, 280, 281, 282— village, 282, 284, 
285 
Dunmore hill, ix. Fife, 205 
Dunmore, remains at, x. Perth, 272 
Dimmullie, camp at, xiii. Elgin, 132 
Dimmyat, see I)almyot 
Dimn bridge, xv. Caithness, 57 
Dunnagoil fort, v. Bute, 86 
Dunnet parish, xv. Caithness, 34— bay, 
37 — bum, ib. — chapel, 39-— head and 
lighthouse, 1, 34, 36, 39, Orkney, 71 
Dunnichen parish, xi. Forfar, 142-»hill, 
143, 597— house, 142, 147— loch, 146 
— quarry, 144 
Dunnideer hill, xii. Aberdeen, 748-i-fort, 

751— tower, 753 

Dunnikier house and plantations, ix. 

Fife, 743, 749— coUieries, 742, 752— 

law, 316, 319— village, 139 

Dunninald, annexed parish o^ xi. Forfkr, 

245— dean, 250— hill, 246— house, 262 

Dunning parish, x. Perth, 716 — bum, ib, 

— tillage, 722 
Dunnottar parish, xi. Kincardine, 212—^ 
castle, 212, 214, 222, 312— house, &c. 
219,222 
Dunolly castle, vii. Argyle, 625 
Dunoon castle and house, vii. Argyle, 

597— village, 568, 574 
Dunoon and Kilmun, united paritthn of, 

vii. Argyle, 567 
Dunphail castle, xiii. Elgin, 184— house, 

&c. 185, 188— vale, 179 
Dunphail tower, xv. Sutherland, 200 
Dunreay, spring at, xv. Caithness, 15 
Dunreggan village, iv. Dumfries, 332 
Dunrobin castle, xv. Sutherland, 29, 34 

— glen, 24 
Dunrod church, iv. Kirkcudbright, 22 
Dunrod bridge, vii. Renfrew, 526 
Dunrossness parish, xv. Shetland, 93 
Dunrostan water, vii. Argyle, 633 
Duns, Scandinavian, ii. Berwick, 253 
Duns of Olenelg, xiv. Inverness, 132 
Dunscaich castle, xiv. Invemeas, 318 
Vunscath castle, xiv, Ross, 25 



Dunscore parish, iv. Dumiriea, 
Dunscriben, fort at, xiv. Inverness, 45 
Dunscuddeburgh, ruins ot, xiv. Inverness, 

266 
Duns dish loch, xL Forfar, 124 
Dunse law of Roxburgh, iii Roxbiirgh, 1 28 
Dunse parish and town, iL Berwick, 247 
—law, 247, 248— loch, 248, 260— cas- 
tle, 248, 250, 255— spa, 248, 266 
Dunshilt village, ix. Fif?, 783 
Dunsinane hill,x. Perth, 212— castle, 2 13 

—house, 212 
Dunskeath castle, xiv. Ross, 26 
Dunskeathness, well at, xiv. Roob, 22 
Dunskeig forts, vii. Argyle, 40 
Dunskelly grotto, iv. Dumfries, 279 
Dunskey casUe, iv. Wigton, 132, 134, 

142— house, &c 133, 134, 143, 148 
Dunstafinage castle, vii. Argyle, 623 
Dunstan brae, ii B^ick, 51 
Dunsyre parish, vi. Laliark, 64 — castle, 

69— hill, 66, 953— village, 72 
Duntarvie property, ii Linlithgow, 25 
Duntaynish hill, vii. Argyle, 632 
Duntelchaig loch, xiv. Inverness, 516 
Duntiblae mills, 6lc, viii Dunbarton, 173, 

199 
Duntocher church, viii Dunbarton, 31 — 
coUiericA, 20— glen, 16— mills, 23, 26 
— remains at, 21 ^-village, 29 
Duntorvil hill, vii. Argyle, 2 
Duntreath castle and property, viii Stir- 
ling, 76, 78, 81— tower, 80 
Duntroon castle, vii. Argyle, 657 
Duntrune property, xi ForfiEu-, 21 — 

quarry, 486 
Duntulm bay, xiv. Invemess, 240— castle, 

248, 257, 266 
Dunure castle, v. Ayr, 358, 365 — fishery, 

370, 373— improvements, 387 
Dunvegan castle, xiv. Inverness, 326, 329 

—head, 324— loch, 323, 325 
Dunwan hill, vii Renfrew, 384 — loch, 386 
Dupplin castle, x. Perth, 876, 878— an- 
nexed parish o^ 876 
Dura den, ix. Fife, 720, 721,921— bleach- 
field, 627 
Durie colliery, ix. Fife, 265 — house, 268 
Durinish parish, xiv. Inverness, 322 
Durisdeer parish, iv. Dumfries, 323 — 

castle, 324— village, 327 
Dum bum, xiii Banff, 179 — camp, 185 

—hill, 179— quarries, 190 
Dumess parish, xv. Sutherland, 82— bay, 

216— district, 83— Kyle, ib. 84, 86 
Duror water, vii. Aigyle, 231 
Durran loch, xv. Caithness, 61 
Durris parish, xi Kincardine, 170— house, 

173 
Dury braes, x. Perth, 249— bum, 261 
Dusk water, v. Ayr, 572— glen, 211, 216 
Duskrig, ironstone at, v. Ayr, 574 ^ 
Duthick loch, xiv. Roea^ 16V 
Duihil panAv, -xm. ^\^tv, \a'^ 



liv 



GENEBAL IKDEX* 



Dye water, il Berwick, 100, 106 

Dye water, xi. Forfinr, 663, Kincardine, 

'232.water, 232 
Dyke and Mor, united parishes of, xiii. 

Elgin, 215 
Dyke viUage, xiii Elgin, 215, 216 
Dykehead village, tL Lanark, 652 
Dyrock bum, v. Ayr, 493, 495 
Dysart pariah, ix. Fife, 127 — church, 134 

—property, 115, 117— town, 130, 135, 
139 
Eachaig valley and water, vii Argyle, 

104, 571, 578 
Eagle, see Edzell 
Eaglescamie house, ii. Haddington, 273, 

274 
Eaglets crag, x. Perth, 901 
Eaglesfield village, iv. Dumfries, 368 
Eaglesham parish, viL Renfrew, 383— 

village, 396, 401, 402— quarry, vL La- 
nark, 884 
Eagleshay isle, xv. Orkney, 83 
Eagleshey isle, xv. Shetland, 71 
Eanaig water, xv. Sutherland, 215 
Earl of Mar*s stone, xii. Aberdeen, 751 
Efiu-1 Cairnie cairn, ii. Linlithgow, 103 
Earl Paul's palace, xv. Orkney, 18 
Earl Randolph'ti tower, iv. Dumfries, 122 
Earl'ftbum, viii. Stirling, 307— loch, 131 
EarPs cross, xv. Sutherland, 6 
Earlsferry coalfield, ix. Fife, 319 — point, 

320— town, 325 
Earlshall castle, ix. Fife, 223 
EarPs hill, xii. Aberdeen, 903 
Earl's hUl, viH. Stirling, 304, 307 
Earlsmill, trees at, xiii. Elgin, 218 
Earl's palace, Kirkwall, xv. Orkney, 4 
Earl's seat hill, viii. Stirling, 38, 72, 234 
Earlston parish, ii. Berwick, 18 — village, 21 
Earlston castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 371 

—house, 356— linn, 371— water, 369 
Eani loch, x. Perth, 315, 580— river, 281, 

285, 297, 298, 312, 315, 335, 491, 580, 

609, 725, 727, 791, 876, 949, 1172 
Earn water, vii. Renfrew, 383, 385, 516, 

537 
Eamock house, &c. vL Lanark, 268, 274 

— tumulus at, 270 
Eamside forest, x. Perth, 810 
Earthen mound, Edinburgh, i. Edinbuigh, 

645 
Earthen mound, Golspie, xv. Sutherland, 

2,40 
Easdale island, vii. Argyle, 71 — sound, 72 

— harbour, 73 — quarne8,77 — village, 7)i 
Eas Gobhain water, x. Perth, 351 
Easnambroc fall, xiv. Inverness, 487 
Eassie and Nevay, united parishes of, xi 

Forfar, 475 
Eassie church, xi. Forfar, 476 
East parish, Greenock, vii. Renfrew, 455 
East of Fife agricultural association, ix. 

Fife, 331 — educational society, 627 
East Adniston house, ii. Haddington, 184 
'J2»«t Baldridge colliery, ix. Fife, 834 



East Baliymonth hill, ix. Fife, 450 
Eastbams village, ii Haddington, 88 
East barony of Kil83rth, viii Stirling^ 141 
East Battery pier, ii Linlithgow, 1 1 
East Bellshill, vi. Lanark, 793, 797 
East Binny quarry, ii. Linlithgow, ) 7^ 
East bum of Kirkcaldy, ix. Fife, 741 
East bum of Stewarton, v. Ayr, 728 
East Burrafrith voe, xv. Shetland, 101 
East Cairn hill, i. Edinburgh, 356 
East Calder village, i Edinburgh, 435, 4S5 
East Cameron cairn, viii Stirling, 106 
East Carden, improvements at, ix. Fife, 

169 
East Coaltown village, ix. Fife, 398, 400 
East Coats village, vi Lanark, 431 
East Conval hill, xiii. Banfi; 111 
East Craigs hill, i Edinburgh, 206 
East Culbo property, xiv. Ross, 48 
Eastend house, &c. vi. Lanark, 521, 526 
Easter Anstruther parish, ix. Fife, 295 — 

town, 296 
Easter Balado plantations, ix. Kinross, 16^ 
Easter Brakie property, xi. Forfex, 395 
Easter Buckie village and chapel, xiii 

Banff, 265 
Easter Clune castle, xii Aberdeen, 79^ 
Easter Clythe castle, xv. Sutherland, 141 
Easter Cochrane house, vii Renfrew, 198 
Easter Down hill, x. Perth, 1017 
Easter Duddingston village, i Edinburgh, 

388, 390, 393 
Easter Elchies house, &c. xiii Elgin, 67, 

69,70 
Easter Feam bum, xiv. Ross, 437 — forest, 

439 
Piaster Gallaton village, ix. Fife, 139 
Easter Gartie chapel, xv. Sutherland, 20 1 
Easter Geddes chapel, xiii. Nairn, 2 
Easter hill, vi. Lanark, 419 — quarry, 649 
Easter house, Roseneath, viii. Dunbarton, 

119 
Easter house colliery, vi Lanark, 646 
Easter Kessock property, xiv. Ross, 58, 59 
Easter Kilmuir parish, xiv. Ross, 301 
Easter Lenzie, ancient parisli of, viii Dun- 
barton, 144 
Easter Logic parish, xiv. Ross, 53 
Easter Lumloch property, vi. Lanark, 400 
Piaster Main, cave at, xiv. Inverness, 499 
Easter Manuel, remains at, A-iii. Stirling, 

210 
Easter Mosshat, coal at, \i. Lanark, 81 
Easter Ogle house, xi. Forfar, 200 
Easter Itarichie, renuiins at, xiv. Ross, 24 
Easter Rhind, improvements at, x. Perth, 

365 
Easter Ross district, xiv. Ross, 1 9, 282, 

434 
Easter Rossland village, >'ii. Renfrew, 520 
Easter Saxon, forts at, vi. Lanark, 68 
Easter Skene house, xii. Aberdeen, 1097 
Eastertown hill, xii. Aberdeen, 316 
Eastfield house, vi. Lanark, 94 — quarries, 
378 



QENBRAL INDEX. 



Iv 



East Forfar Agricultural Association, xi. 

Forfar, 136,411 
EaM Forton property, ii. Haddington, 45 
East Fowlis property, xii. Aberdeen, 1110 
Easthaven village, xi For&r, 70, 71 
East head of Portsoj, xiii. Banff, 179 
East inch of Grangemouth, viii. Stirling, 

26 
East isle of Burra, xt. Shetland, 9 
East Kilbride parish, vi. Lanark, 877 — 

village, 879, 889, 893, 898 
East Kilpatrick parish, viii. Dunbarton, 36 
East Linton village, ii. Haddington, 231 
East Lomond hill, ix. Fife, 922, 930 
East Lothian Agricultural Society, ii. 

Haddington, 120 
East Luthrie quarry, ix. Fife, 661 
East mains of Dunnichen, battle of, xi. 

Forfar, 146 
Eastmains of Dunbac, geology of, iL Had- 
dington, 73 
Eastmains of Ballencrieff limeworks, ii 

Linlithgow, 153 
East Machan colliery, vi. Lanark, 723 
East Mathers limeworks, xi. Kincardine, 

289 
East mill of Brechin, xi. Forfar, 134 
East mill of Currie, copper ore at, i. Edin- 
burgh, 545 
East miU, improvements at, ix. Kinross, 48 
East Monkland parish, vi. Lanark, 242 
East Morriston property, ii. Berwick, 352 
East Morriston village, vL Lanark, 652 
East Muirhouse property, vii. Renfrew, 

395 
East Nemphlar chapel, vi. Lanark, 15 
East Nisbet chapel, &c. ii. Berwick, 269, 

276 
Easton, spring at, vi Lanark, 65 
East Paiston village, ii. Haddington, 142 
East Pitcorthie, remains at, ix. Fife, ^76 
Eiist PortjjMoorf Mcra parish of, ix. Fife, 765 
East Salton village, ii. Haddington, 108, 

116,121 
Eastside district, xiv. Inverness, 240 
Eastsidewood collieries, vi Lanark, 77 
East Tarbet bay, iv. Wigton, 201 
East Third village, iii Roxburgh, 142 
East Waterland, limestone at, v. Ayr, 291 
East Wemyss village, ix. Fife, 398, 400 
Eastwood parish, vii. Renfrew, 33 
Eathack loch, x. Perth, 541 
Ebrie water, xii. Aberdeen, 90, 963 
Ebtie parish, ix. Fife, 47 — church, 51 
Ecclefechan, annexed parish of, iv. Dum- 
fries, 289— coal at, 291— village, 294 
Eccles parish, ii. Berwick, 60 — abbey and 
nunnery, 57 — house, 56 — quarry, 52 — 
village, 56 
Eccles quarry, iv. Dumfries, 501 
Ecclesgreig, or St C3rru8, parish oi^ xi 

Kincardine, 269 
Ecclesmachan parish, ii Linlithgow, 109 
Echlin moor, Roman road at, i. Edin- 
burgh, 590 



Echt parish, xii Aberdeen, 735— house 

&c. 738, 739 
Eck loch, vii Ai^rle, 104, 571, 678 
Eckford parish, iii. Roxburgh, 220~vil- 

lage, 223, 232— tower, 223 
Eday heads, xv. Orkney, 121 — isle, 86, 

115, 157— sound, 157 
Edderachillis parish, xv. Sutherland, 118 
Eddersly house, vii. Renfrew, 6, 12, 19 
Edderton sands, xiv. Ross, 283 
Eddertown parish, xiv. Ross, 433 — bum, 

437— hill, 434 
Eddlestone parish, iii Peebles, 146 — vil- 
lage, 148— -water, 1, 2 
Eden castle, xii. Aberdeen, 277 — house, 

278 
Eden river, ii. Berwick, 19, 33, 67, 215, 

224, 349, iii Roxburgh, 419, 460 
Eden river, ix, Fife, 1, 2, 22, 102, 218, 450, 

454,474,517,659,720,771 
Edenham, see Ednam 
Edenkillic parish, xiii. Elgin, 178 
Edenshead village, ix. Fife, 779 
Edensmuir, ix. Fife, 31 
Edenston village, ix. Fife, 30 
Edenwood house, ix. Fife, 525 
Ederham church, ii Berwick, 274 
Ederlin loch, vii Aigyle, 677 
Edgbucklin brae, i Edinburgh, 278 
Edgar, port, ii. Linlithgow, 2 
Edgarhope wood, ii. Berwick, 3 
Edgemoor, school at, iv. Dumfries, 166 
Edge moss, vi Lanark, 322 
Edgerston, remains found at, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 13--rigg, 3 — house, 14 
EdinhKBlly property and house, viii. Stii^ 

ling, 104,290, 291 
Edinburgh, city of, i. Edinburgh, 614— > 

castle, 622 
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, i Edin- 
burgh, 98, 755, viii. Dunbarton, 151, 
211, Stirling, 33, 198,211, 213— and 
Dalkeith railway, 755 — and Leith rail- 
way, ib, 
Edinburghshire, observations on, i. Edin- 
burgh, 783 
Edincaple hill, x. Perth, 345 — castle^ 

347 
Edinchip hill, x. Perth, 345 
Edingight property, xiii. Bcmff, 216 
Edinglassie house, xii. Aberdeen, 547 
Edinken^s bridge, ii. Haddington, 242 
Edinkillie, school at, xiii. Elgin, 227 
Edinshall, ii Berwick, 252 
Edintore house, xiii Banff, 388 
Edinvillie daugh, xiii. Banff, 1 1 1 
Ediewood frurm, vi. Lanark, 269 
Edmonds dean, ii. Berwick, 291 
Edmonston house, vi. Lanark, 364 
Edmonstone colliery, i Edinburgh, 250, 
559, 660, 570, 575— house, 661— pro- 
perty, 563 — village, 570, 575 
Ednam parish, iii. Roxburgh, 419 — hill, 

i5.— house, 320— village, 423 
Edradour cascade, x. Perth, 640 



Ivi 



08VKEAL m>lZ. 



EdringUm caitle, ii Berwick, 84 1 —home, 

340 
Edrom poriib, ii Berwick, 266— bonie, 

271 
Edzell pariah, xi. Forftr, 621— CMUe, 622 

—village, 624 
E^en, see Ojrne 
Effbck water, xl Forftr, 192 
Kgg isle* tee Eigg 
Eggemew point, ir. Wigton, 23, 24 — 

castle, 29 
Eghtac loch; xiv. InvemeH, 463, 467 
Eglinton cartle, â–¼. Ayr, 811, 812, 815, 

826— collierj, 813 — tournament, 825 
Eglifhay isle, xr. Orkney, 116 
Eglismonichty chapeL, xi For&r, 541 
Egrop wood, ii Berwick, 3 
Egsmalee church, ix. Fife, 810 
Eich, Ben, viii Dunbarton, 231 
Eigg island, xit. Invemeas, 145, 150 
Eilloch, xiv. Invemen, 118 
Eilafitz rock, iv. Wigton, 131 
Eillan and Eilein, see Elian 
Eildon hilla, iii Roxburgh, 34, 35, 41, 

51,52 
Eilean loch, xiii. Elgin, 137, 138 
Eilena garroch rock, iv. Wigton, 131 
Eire water, xiv. Inverness, 101 
Eishart loch, xiv. Invemen, 317 
Elandonnan castle, xiv. Invemen, 257 
Elbottle nunnery, ii Haddington, 21 1 
Elchaig glen, xiv. Ross, 170 — water, 172 
Elchies hou«e, xiii Elgin, 61 
Elcho castle and nunnery, x. Perth, 362 
Elderslie, coal at, vii Renfrew, 153^ 

house, 195— village, 190, 200, 249 
Kidrig hilL, vi. Lanark, 878, 879 
Elein, see Elian 
Elf hillock, xiii. Banff, 226 
Klf houae of Dalrv, v. Ayr, 211 
Elf kirk, xiii. Banff, 2, 5 
Elgerith property, vi. Lanark, 854 
Elgin collieries, ix. Fife, 830, 835 
Elgin parish and town, xiii. Elgin, 1— ca- 
thedral, 6 — institution, 8, 24 
Elginnhire, obsorvations on, xiii Elgin, 

257 
Elhardholm chapel, xv. Orkney, 80 
Elibank caHtle, iii. Selkirk, 45--tower, 63 
Elie parish, ix. Fife, 278— house, 287— 

village and harbour, 280, 289 
Eliock house, &c. iv. Dumfries, 298, 305, 

306 
K'Liston tower, i Edinbuigh, 138 
KUachie, see Craig Ellachie 
Klliin isle, vii Argyle, 661 
Kilan Aigas, xiv. lavemcss, 488 
Kllun an Righ, xiv. Inverness, 423 
Pllhin ChaiHtal, xiv. Inverness, 145 
Elian Cholium cille, xiv. Inverness, 258 
Ellandhcirreg ca«tle, vii. Argyle, 1 1 1 
EUun-duiraish, vii Argyle, 469 
Ellan-fiida, vii. Argyle, 259 
EUan-finnan church, viL Argyle, 147 
*n-ghininhich, xiv. Invemess, 145, 149 



Ml., 



EUaa-M, m. InvenMi, 826 
EUan-locb-oicar, vii. Aigyle, 230 
EUan-maiee, xiv. Ron, 91 
EUan-mote, vii Aigyk, 198; 3521— dnircli, 

262 
Ellan-monde^ andmt parish ol^ viL Aigjle^ 

223 
EUan-nargaeil, xv. Sutherland, 168 
Ellan-na-leek, vii Aigyle, 259 
Elian-na-momoch, xiv. Invemen^ 169 
Ellan-na-mukk, vii Ai^Ie, 259 
Ellan-na-naormh, xv. Sutherland, 167 
Ellan-nan-con, xiv. Inveroesi, 423 
Ellan-nan-Oobhar fort, vii Argrte, 145 
EUan-na-roan, xv. Sutherland, 167, 170 
Elian- no*n- Each, xiv. Invemen, 145 
EUanreach houae, xiv. Invemen, 135 
Ellieston plantationi, iii Roxbuigh, 106 
Ellim, annexed parish of,ii Berwick, 93 
ElUnorton village, xi Fcv&r, 185 
Elliot water, xi Forfar, 332, 352 
Elliston castle, vii Renfirew, 95 
Ellon parish, xii Aberdeen, 899— castle, 

.905— village, 904, 922, 923 
Ellrig loch, viii Stirlmg, 275 
Ellsrig hill, vi. Lanark, 367, 369 
Elmscleuch, rocks at, ii. Haddington, 235 
FJot water, xi Forfiu-, 332, 352 
Elphinston house, i Edinburgh, 279 
Elphinston collierv, ii Haddington, 288 
—property, 291— tower, 283, 293— vil- 
lage, 299 
Elphinston colliery, viii Stirling, 345 
Elrick house, &c. xii Aberdeen, 1027, 

1030 
Elrig muir, vi. Lanark, 315 
Eb-ock bum, viii Stirling, 145, 146 
Elsher's cairn, xv. Caithness, 138 
Elshieshields house, &c iv. Dumfiies, 

379, 383 
Elsick house, &c. xi. Kincardine, 253, 259 

— water, 245 
Elsness, district of, xv. Orkney, 133 — re- 
mains at, 136 
Elsrickle property, vi. Lanark, 854 — val- 
ley, 847, 848— village, 849, 860, 862 
Elsrig hill, vi. Lanark, 61 
Elswick harbour, xv. Orkney, 79 
Eltri goe, xv. Caithness, 118 
Elvingston houae and property, ii Had- 
dington, 176, 192 
Embo quarry, xv. Sutherland, 2, 3, 11 — 

village, 8, 1 1 
Endrick water, viii. Dunbarton, 21 1, 21 3 
— Stiriing, 39, 60, 61, 89, 100, 289— 
agricultural club, 297 
English hill, xiv. Invemess, 484 
Enhallow isle,, xv. Orkney, 83^ 196 — 

sound, 197 
Enneric water, xiv. Invemess, 37, 39 
Ennenirie, see Inverurie 
Ennerwick, see Innerwick 
Ennich glen, xiii. Elgin, 137— loch, f5. 

138 
Enoch, remains at, v. Ayr, 360 



OENSBAL INDEX. 



Ivii 



Enock house, &c. iv. Dumfrtes, 326 
Enrick, moat at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 298 
Eiirick water, aee Endrick 
Ensay isle, xiv. InvemesB, 155 
Enterkin water, iv. Dumfries, 323 
Enterkin house, v. Ayr, 757 
Enterkins Yett, i Edinburgh,' 547 
Enzie, district of^ riiL Banff, 245 — quoad 

aacra pansh, 122, 264 
Enziehokn, remains at, iy. Dumfries, 433 
Eolan water, vii Aigyle, 479 
Eoligary house, xiv. Inverness, 208 
Eorsa isle, vii. Aigyle, 297, 301 
ErchlesB, davoch o^ xiv. Inverness, 484 

—castle, 485 
Ercildown, see Earlston 
Eregie hoase, xiv. Inverness, 373 
Eriboli loch, XV. Sutherland, 83, 85, 87 
Erichkie water, x. Perth, 560 
Eiicht loch, xiv. Inverness, 420 
Erichtglen, x. Perth, 898— water, 239, 

240, 898,901,904, 1110, 1111,1177, 

1180 
Eridine house, vii. Aigyle, 373 
Erinis house, vii. Argyle, 262 
£risca isle, xiv. Inverness, 182 — sound, 193 
Eriska isle, vii Argrle, 4?69 
Erisovt k>0fa, xiv. Ross, 158, 159 
Ennit water, i. Edinburgh, 408 
Ernan water, xii. Aberdeen, 530 
Emcrags loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 191 
Erne river, see Findhom 
Ernes cleugh, iiL Roxburgh, 210 
Emsheuch, camp at, ii. Berwick, 284 
Errickstane vale, iv. Dumfries, 205 
Errochd loch, xiv. Inverness, 65, x. Perth, 

539— water, 540 
Errol parish, x. Perth, 367— park, 869, 

372— village, 368, 372, 887 
Erskine pariw, vii. Renfrew, *500 — castle, 

i6. — ferry, •521— iiouse, •SOI, ^604, 

-•506, ^512, 'SIS 
Ervary hiU, vii Aigyle, ^32 
Esk loch, xi Forfar, 199, 436 
Esk river, iv. Dumfries, 246, 362, 398, 416, 

417,430,483,484 
Esk, North and South, rivers, i. Edin- 

buigh, 30, 31, 49, 68, 154, 174, 246, 

249, 324, 337, 338, 458, 558, 608, iii. 

Peebles, 146, 156, 176 
Esk, North and South, rivers, 3q. Forfiu*, 

110, 116, 123, 129, 130, 165, 192, 198, 

246, 254, 263,264, 270, 27^ 289, 292, 

298, 299, 436, 437, 619, 520, 624, 625, 

664, Kincardine, H2 
Eskadale chapel, xiv. Inverness, 370<» 

house, 488 
Eskbank house, i. Edinburgh, 496 
Eskdale, district of, iv. Dumfries, 567 
Eskdale village, xiv. Inverness, 487 
Eskdale and Liddisdale fieumerS' society, 

iii Roxburgh, 445, iv. Dumfries, 498 
Eskdalemuir parish, iv. Dumfries, 398 
Eskdalemuir pen hill, iv. Dumfries, 398 
Eslemont house, xii Aberdeen, 905 

VOL. XV. 



Eslie, Druidical remains at, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 336 
Eslin ^en, iv. Dumfries, 337 
Espedair water, vii Renfrew, 147 
Espig glen, v. Bute, 46 
Esragan water, vii Aigyle, 479 
En of Olen Latterach, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Esscumhan water, v. Bute, 42 
Esse forse fiUl, vii Aigyle, 350 
Essenside loch, iii Roxbuigh, 269 
Esset water, xii. Aberdeen, 442 
Essich, marl pits at, xiv. Inverness, 22 
Essie, suppressed paridi of, xii AberdeeOi 

1015 
Essil, suppressed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 51 
Essmore water, v. Bute, 42 
Ethie bum, xiv. Ross, 3, 349 
Ethie house, xi Forfiir, 241 
Ethiebeaton chapel, xi Forfiu*, 542 
Ethiehaven village, xi. Forfiur, 242 
Etive glen, vii Ai^^le, 473 — loch, 475 — 

water, 478 
EUrick bay, v. Bute, 96 
Ettriek parish, iii Selkirk, 59— hall, 64— 

water, 2, 11, 36, 37, 60, 79— forest, 40, 

42, 44, 63, i Edinburgh, 407 
Ettrickbridge, village, &c. iii Selkirk, 30, 

53 
Ettrickpen hill, iv. Dumfries, 103, 398, 

iii Selkirk, 60 
Euchar glen, vii Argyle, 62 — water, 62, 65 
Eur water, xiv. Inverness, 101 
Evan water, iv. Dumfries, 102|, 125 
Evantown village, xiv. Ross, 322, 326 
Evelaw house, ii. Berwick, 72 
Evelick castle, x. Perth, 1164— hill an4 

fort, 1163, 1164 
Evie and Rendall, united parishes of, xv. 

Orkney, 196 
Evigan bay, xv. Orkney, 157 
Evluc water, &c. xv. Sutherland, 2, 3, 9 
Ewe river and loch, xiv. Ross, 92 
Ewes parish, ix. Dumfries, 487 — water, 

416, 417, 429, 437 
Ewes water, i Edinburgh, 403— castle, 

405, 418 
Ewesduris church, iv. Dumfries, 440 
Eweside quarries, ii Berwick, 293 — ^hiH 

and camp, 303 
Eye loch, xiv. Ross, 360 
Eye water, ii Berwick, 131, 279,^92, 818, 

319, 366 
Eyebrochy isle, ii Haddington, 204 
Eyemouth parish, ii. Berwick, 318— bay^ 

132,319— town, 130,279,318^323,829, 

830 
Bynort loch, xiv. Inverness, 1 83, 195, 296 
i^d isle, viii Dunbarton, 233 
Fad loch, v. Bute, 82, 84, 99 
Fada isle, vii Argyle, 259 
Faich hill, cairn, &c xiii Banff, 97 
Faifley bum, viii Dunbarton, n^miUs^ 

23, 25— church, 81— -village, 29 
Fail loch and water, v. Ayr, 748, 766— 

monastery, 748 

h 



Iviii 



QBNE&AL INDEX. 



Failford monaitery, v. Ayr, 748 
Fair isle, xv. Shetland, 93, 95 
Fairbheinn hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 
Fairbum tower, xiv. Rose, 401 
Fairemheall hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 
Fairfolk tumulus, xL Forfar, 358 
Fairfort camps, viii. Stirling, 121 
Fairley house, xiL Aberdeen, 238 
Fairlie bum, v. Ayr, 246, 790— haxbour, 

790— house and property, 678, 798 — 

^ptoad sacra parish, 801 — village, 804 
Fairholm bridge, vi. Lanark, 286 
Fairloans, spring at, iiL Roxburgh, 254 
Fairmile h^, cairn, &c. at, L ^inburgh, 

119 
Fairness, xiii. Nairn, 27 
Faimeyside house, &c. ii. Berwick, 138 
Faimielee plantations, iii. Selkirk, 16 
Fair Sisters, tree called, I Edinburgh, 330 
Fairway rock, ix. Fife, 828 
Fairy bridge, fair at, xiv. Inverness, 356 
Fairy flag of Mac1e(>d,xiv. Inverness, 337 
Fairy castle, ii. Haddington, 235 
Fairy hillock, xi. For&r, 358 
Fala and Soutra, united parishes o^ L 

Edinburgh, 534 
Fala hall, i. Edinburgh, 535 — moss, 536— 

village, 539 
Fala water, iii. Peebles, 59 
Faladam village, i. Edinburgh, 539 
Falbey loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 282 
Falcon stone, x. Perth, 832 
Faldonside house, iii. Selkirk, 17 
Faldshope hill, iii. Selkirk, 42 
Falfcamie bum, xl Forfar, 436 
Falfield colliery, ix. Fife, 322— house, 326 
Falkirk parish and town, viii. Stirling, 1 

-^battles of, 4, 7— ironworks, 17 — 

trysts, 21, 37, 377 
Falkland, parish of, ix. Fife, 920 — castle, 

926— house, 930— palace, 923— town, 

937— wood, 923 
Falligoe, xv. Caithness, 119 
Fallin harbour, viii. Stirling, 306 
Falloch water, viiL Dunbarton, 96^ 234, 

X. Perth, 1080— glen, 107 8 — loch, 1096, 

1097 
Falside house, L Edinburgh, 279 
Falside house, xi. Kincardine, 24 
Falside tower, ii. Haddington, 283, 292 
Fan bum, iii Peebles, 39 
Fancy farm house, viL Renfrew, 526 
Fanellan school, xiv. Inverness, 501 
Fankerton village, viii Stirling, 128, 132 
Fanna hill, iii Roxburgh, 208 
Fannich hill, xiv. Ross, 74, 75 — loch, 236 
Fannyside loch, viii, Stirling, 275, Dun- 
barton 1 37 — moor, 1 37 — remainsat,! 42 
Fans village, ii. Berwick, 21 ' 
Fare hill, xii. Aberdeen, 630, 735, 831, 

XL Kincardine, 324 
Farkin bay and point, viiu Dunbarton, 95 
Farme colliery, vi. Lanark, 378— house 

and property, 375, 376 
^arms property, xv. Sutherland, 9 



Famell parish, xL For&r, 109 

Famess village, xiv. Ross, 14 

Famua, annexed parish of^ xiv. InTemeM, 

459 
Farout head, xv. Sutherland, 83, 87 
Farquhar bum, xL Kincardine, 72 
Fan* house and remains at, xiv. InTer- 

ness, 519 
Farr parish, xv. Sutherland, 66— bay, 68 

— ^head, 66 
Farragon mount, x. Perth, 753 
Farralarie loch, xv. Sutherland, 25 
Farrar water, xiv. Inverness, 363, 487 
Farskone chapel, xiii Banff, 254 
Farskane's cave, xiii Banff, 255 
Fas glen, v. Bute, 46 
Fasl^n hill, xv. Sutherland, 88 
Faskine colliery, &c. vi Lanark, 422, 

645, 648 
Faslane castle, viii. Dunbarton, 73, 75 — 

chapel, 75 
Fasnacoil property, xiv. Inverness, 485— 

house and chapel, 370 
Fasney water, ii Berwick, 249, Hadding- 
ton, 62, 360 
Fasque house, xi Kincardine, 25, 114, 

119— spring at, 112 
Fassfem quarry, xiv. Inverness, 123 
Fast castle<ii Berwick, 285 
Fast castle, Bedrule, iii Roxburgh, 284 
Fatlips castle, vi Lanark, 819, 870 
Fatlips castle, Minto, iii. Roxburgh, 87 1 
Fauld bum, ii. Linlithgow, 79 
Fauldhouse village, ii. Linlithgow, 79 
Faungrass water, ii Berwick, 41 
Faim's hill, viii Stirling, 90 
Fea brae, xv. Orkney, 86 
Fea Drum Hallastain hills, xv. Suther- 
land, 213 
Feal chapeL, xv. Shetland, 25 
Feam parish, xi Forfiir, 311 
Feam parish, xiv. Ross, 360— abbey, 25, 
361, 440— church, 79, 361— village, 
435 
Fechley moat, xii. Aberdeen, 417 
Fechtin foord, the, viii Stirling, 212 
Fedderate castle, xii Aberdeen, 177 
Fedderaught stone, xii. Aberdeen, 476 
Feille Edeichan fair, xiv. Ross, 432 
Feill ma Chessaig f^, x. Perth, 359 
Felin chapel, xiv. Ross, 352 
FeU of BarhulUon liill, iv. Wigton, 38 
Fell of Carlton hill, iv. Wigton, 38 
Fell of Cultcr hill, vi. Lanark, 341 
Felochans, spring at, xiii Elgin, 62 
Fendar £ftlls, x. Perth, 561— glen, 559 
Fendoch, camp at, x. Perth, 273 
Pencil a^s den, xi Kincardine, 23, 79— 

castle, 79, 85— hill, 24, 66, 69 
Fens, embankment at, iii Roxburgh, 10$ 
Fenton tower, ii Haddington, 205— vil- 
lage, 205, 216 
Fenton tower, iii Roxburgh, 109 
Fentonbams property, ii Haddington, 209 
Fen wick panah, v. Ayr, 773 — hill, *&. 



GEKB&U. niDBZ. 



lix 



Fenzies loch,x. Perth, 1003 

Ferdun water, xi. Kincardine, 71} 73 

Fereneeze, see Femeeze 

Ferey i«le, xv. Orkney, 117 

Fergus loch, v. Ayr, 6, 660 

Fergushill colliery, v. Ayr, 8 13, 829— tU- 

lage, 826, 82d 
Fergfushill mills, viii. Dunbarton, 199 
Ferguslie house, vii. Renfrew, 197 — Til- 
lage, 200 
Ferguston, remains at, viii. Dunbarton, 47 
Femeeze hills, viL Renfrew, 160, 309 
Femeyrig bog, iL Berwick, 53 
Femie castle, ix. Fife, 40,41— village, 44 
Femihirst wood, iii Roxburgh, 6— outle, 

&c. 11 
Femtower, antiquities in, x. Perth, 503 
Ferny stripe, spring at, xii. Aberdeen, 983 
Ferrar, coins found at, xii. Aberdeen, 1061 
Ferrintosh plantations, xiy. Roes, 368— 

privilege, 371 — property, 374 
Ferry of the Forth, the, ii. Linlithgow, 2, 9 
Ferry hiUs, the, ix. Fife, 230 
Ferrybank house, ix. FLfe, 8 
Ferryden village, xi. Forfiur, 252, 255 
Ferryfield printfield, viii. Dunbarton, 224 
Ferry Port on Craig parish, ix. Fife, 81 — 

village, 84 
Fere ness, xv. Orkney, 157 — bay, 158 
Feshie glen, xiv. Inverness, 82 
Fetchie bum and kirk, xv. Shetland, 25 
Fetheland isle, xv. Shetland, 71 
Fetheray isle and chapel, ii. Haddington, 

204, 210 
Fetlar isle, xv. Shetland, 23 
Fetlar and North Yell, united paiishet 

of, XV. Shetland, 23 
Fetterangus viUage, xiL Aberdeen, 150 
Fettercaim parish, xi. Kincardine, 111 — 

&rmera* society, 103, 12^— house, 25, 

86, 116— village, 119, 124 
FetteresBo parish, xL Kincardine, 244^^ 

castle, 218, 244, 246, 252 
Fettemear church, xii Aberdeen, 572 — 

house, 572, 582 
Feuchan loch, vii. Argyle, 63, 64 
Feugh water, xL Kincardine, 231, 232, 

324, 328, xiL Aberdeen, 787, 1049— 

bridge, 790— valley, 787 
Few ford, viu. StirUng, 51, 52, 322 
Fewn loch, xv. Sutherland, 213 
Fhadd, Ben, xiv. Ross, 182 
Fiddich water, xiiL Banff, 103, 110, 356, 

359— glen, 103 
Fiddler's bum, xiv. Invemen, 377 
Fiddler's gill, vi. Lanark, 566, 567 
Fiddler's well, xiv. Ross, 9) 
Fidrey chapel and isle, ii. Haddington, 

204, 210 
Fife Keith villi^, xiii. Banff, 389, 390 
Fife ness, ix. Fife, 941 
Figget Whins, i Edmburgh, 385 
Fillan water, x. Perth, 1080 
Fillan's chair, x. Perth, 1088 
Finart glen, vii Aigyle, 572 



Finavon or Oathlaw parish, xi For&r, 291 
Fincastle strath, x. Perth, 753, 754 
Findhom bay, xiii. Elgin, 163-^bridge, 

173--town, 203, 210- river, 159, 161, 

179, 181, 202, 203, 209, 216, 240, 

Nairn, 20, 27, 44, xiv. Inverness, 97, 

98, 101 
Findlater castle, xiii. Banff, l79, 186— 

cave, 179 
Findochtie house, xiiL Banff, 254— spring, 

247— village, 247, 260 
Findon, fo«il remains at, xiii Banff, 277 
Findon bum, xiv. Ross, 365— plantations 

and property, 368, 373 
Findon harbour, xi Kincardine, 178, 194, 

189 
Findrack property, xii Aberdeen, 1088 
Findrassie property, xiii Elgin, 98 — 

quarries, 99 
Fine loch, vii Argyle, 104, 677, 678, 691 

— water, 704 
Finella, see Fenella 
Finfim well and house, xiii Elgin, 45 
FingallB cauldron seat, v. Bute, 52 
Fingal's cave, vii Aigyle, 352 
Fingalli fort, vii. Argyle, 385 
Fingal'a fort, Arran, v. Bute, 24 
Fingal's griddle, vii Argyle, 147 
FingaPs oak, vii. Argyle, 484 
Fingal's seat hill, xiv. Inverness, 218 
FingaPs steps, vii. Argyle, 165 
Fingal's tomb, x. Perth, 1076 
Fingask burial ground, xii Aberdeen, 822 

—house, 823 
Fingask castle, x. Perth, 1164— loch, 908 
Fingask house, xiv. Inverness, 460 
Fingland bum, iii Perth, 39 
Finglandhill cascade, iv. Dumfries, 398 
Finglen, viii Stirling, 235— bum, 38, 236 
Fingleton property, yii Renfrew, 521 
Finhaven castle, xi Forfiur, 200, 291,294, 

298— haughs, 292— hill, 170,200,291, 

293, 295— property, 301 
Finlagan castle, vii Argyle, 669 
Fiularig house, x. Perth, 1076, 1085 
Finlas loch, v. Ayr, 384 
Finlass glen and water, viii Dunbarton, 

156 
Finlay's castle, xiii Nairn, 1 
Finlayston house, vii Renfrew, 58 
Finnan chapel, vii Argyle, 147 
Finnart hill, viii. Dunbarton, 66, 155 
Finnich bridge, viii Stirling, 111 — glen, 

211 
Finnich Drummond, well at, viii Stirling, 

102 
Finnich Malice, improvements at, viii 

StirUng, 109 
Finnon tower, vii Aigyle, 148 
Fintrayparish,xii Aberdeen, 166 — ^house, 

168— property, 991 
Fintry, improvements at, xi Forfiur, 60 
Fintry bay, v. Bute, 69 
Fintry parish, viii. Stirling, 38— castle, 
I 43— hills, 88 



k 



OENEIUL Iin>SX. 



Knzean, caurn at, xiL Aberdeen, 78d— 

home, 793 
Fiogfaan hill, x. Perth, 345 
Fion, dan oC, xiv. InvemesB, 489 
Fibnaven hiU, xv. Sutherland, 214 
Vionnben hill, xt. Sutherland, 125 
Pionnchaim castle, vii. Argyle, 683 
Fir bum, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Firebum mill, ii Berwick, 201 
Firhall honae, xiil Nairn, 2 
Firth of Clyde, see Clyde— of Forth, see 

Forth — of Tay, ice Tay, &c 
Firth and StennesB parish, xt. Orkney, 67 
Firths voe, xt. Shetland, 57 
Fisherrow town, i Edinbuigh, 249, 289, 

294 
Fishers Nooks, ruins at, ii, Haddington, 

211 
Fishwires* causeway, I Edinburgh, 389 
Fishtown of Cullen, xiii; Ban£^ 342 
Fishwick church, ii Berwick, 153 
Fithie loch, xi For&r, 691— water, 378 
FithiU, copper ore at, xt. Shetland, 93 
Fittick'a bay and church, xi. Kincardine^ 

200 
Fittie loch, ix. Fife, 128, 174, 829 
Fitty hill, XV. Orkney, 114, 126 
Fladda isle, vii Afgyle, 340, xiv. Inrer- 

ness, 240 
Fladdachuain isle, xiv. Invemeas, 240 — 

remains at, 265 
Flanders moss, viii Stirling, 100^ 
Flannel isles, xiv. Ross, 151, 153 
Flasheddor chapel, xiv. Inverness, 354 
Flashes, battle of, i. Edinbuigh, 208 
FlasB quarry, il Berwick, 66 
Flat, spring at, iii. Roxburgh, 442 
Flatt quarry, vi. Lanark, 299 
Fleet bay, iv. Kirkcudbright, 373— lochs, 

292— water, 291, 292, 374 
Fleet water, xv. Sutherland, 3, 24, 25, 46, 

48, 215 
Flemington property, ii. Berwick, 1 37 
Flemington* loch, xiv. Inverness, 380 — 

plantations, 387— remains at, 392 
Flemington bum, iii. Peebles, 135, 136 
Flemmington castle, xl Forfiir, 629 
Flichity plantations, xiv. Inverness, 516 
Flight, camps ut, iii. Roxburgh, 444 
Flint hill, iii. Peebles, 121 
Flisk parish, ix. Fife, 595_ehapel, 601 
Fliskmillhill^ix. Fife, 601 
Floats bay, iv. Wigton, 164 
Floday water, xv. Sutherland, 47 
Flodday isle and sound, xiv. Inverness, 200 
Flodigarry house, xiv. Inverness, 246 
Floors castle, iii. Roxburgh, 305, 306, 320 
Floors, farm of, xiii. Banff, 217 
Floors hill, \i. Lanark, 301 
Floridon hill, vii. Renfrew, 503 
Flotta isle, xv. Orkney, 71,75, 77 
Flotta calf isle, xv. Orkney, 78 
Fludha house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 25 
Fochabers cross, xiii. FAgin, \V9— \\l\a%'e, 

JI.O, 120,122 



\ 



Fodderlee, cairn a^ m. Roxbrngb, 213 
Fodderty parish, xiv. Ron, 244 
Foffiurty chapel, xL Forfiur, 216 
Fogo parish, ik Berwick, 223— Tillage^ 

226, 229 
Foinnebhehm hill, xt. Sutherland, 83 
Foirbeg, remarkable tree at, zIy. Inw- 

nesB, 55 
Follart loch, xiv. Inverness, 323 
Folly castle, xii. Aberdeen, 819 
Font stone of Manner, iii Peeblei^ 117 
Foodie hill, ix. Fife, 770 
Foola rocks, xv. Shetland, 145 
Fopachy harbour, xiv. InTemen,. 461 
Forbes castle, xii Aberdeen, 949 — pro- 
perty, 445 
Forbes, annexed parish of, xii Aberdeeo, 

439 
Ford village, i Edinbiii]gh, 183 
Ford of Dye, the, xi Kincardine, 239 
Ford of Frew, the, viii Stirling, 52 
Fordarroch moss, xiv., Invemen, 516 
Fordel colUeries, ix. Fife, 182 
Fordel square, viliage o^ ix. Fife^ 18^ 
Forder bum, xi.. Kincardine, 304 
Fordoun psoish, xi Kincardine^ 66 — 

house, 72, 85, 88->viUage, 69 
Fordyce parish, xiii Ban^. 178— Ihuh 

and hill, 179— vilhige^ 190 
Forehill, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 39 
Forehobn isle, xv. Shetland, 100 
Foreman hill, xii Aberdeen, 599 
Fore ness, xv. Shethmd, 100^ 103 
Forest of Alyth, x. Perth, 1111 
Forest of Athol, x. Perth, 562 
Forest of Balnagown, xiv. Ross, 403, 

404 
Forest of Birse, xii Aberdeen, 787 — 

castle, 792 
Forest of Boyn, xiii Banff, 220 
Forest of Drimmie, x. Perth, 906 
Forest of Ettrick, i Edinbui^, 407, iii 

Selkirk, 40, 42, 44, 63 
Forest of Gaick, xiv. Inverness, 65 
Forest of Glenavon, xiii Banff, 297 
Forest of Lewis, xiv. Ross, 157 
FoKst of Mar, xii. Aberdeen, 649 
Forest of Platon, xi Forfer, 294 
Forester's seat, xi Forfer, 294 
Forestmill village, viii Clackmannan, 1 36 
Forewood water, i. Edinbuigh, 362 
For&r parish and town, xi. Foriar, 691— 

castle, 693, 695— loch, 338, 691 
Forfar and Arbroath railwav, xi Forfar, 

390, 609, 697 
Forfarshire, observations on, xi Forfar, 

703 
Forge house, iv. Dumfries, 491— orchards, 

488 
Forge tree, iv. Kirkcudbright, 202 
Forgan parish, ix. Fife, 505 
Forgandenny parish, x. Perth, 948^vil- 

l^e, 955 
Forglcn parish, xiii. Bonfl^ 83— hoHss 



QENEBAL INDBZ* 



1x1 



Forgue parish, xii Aberdeen, 598 — bum, 

599 
Forinch isle, viii Dunbarton, 233 
Forkens ironworks, vi. Lanark, 78 
Formal! hill, xi. For&r, 636 
Formartine Agricultural Association, ziL 

Aberdeen, 920 
Fometh house, x. Perth, 1025 
Fomighty school, xiiL Nairn, il 
Forres parish, xiii Elgin, 159 — bum, 162 

—castle, 165— house, 167~-pillar, 165, 

246— town, 164, 168, 173 
Forresthill property, viii. Stirling, 118 
Forsa glen, vii. Aigyle, 278, 279— water, 

281 
Forss water, xt. Caithness, 2, 15, 69— 

house, 2 
Fort of Drum, xii. Aberdeen, 887 
Fort of Westray rocks» xv. Orkney, 1 15 
Forthill of Monifieth, xi. Forfar, 548 
Fort green, Ayr, v. Ayr, 3 
Fort point, ii. Berwick, 319, 321 
Fortar castle, xi For&r, 427, 677 
Fort Augustus, xiv. Invemen, 57, 62 
Forteviot parish, x. Perth, 1172 
Fort George, xiv. InTcmess, 381, 469, 471 
Forth, frith of, i. Edinburgh, 590, 760, 

ii. Berwick, 279, Haddington, 1 73, 174, 

203,249,305,319, LinUthgow, 1, 18, 

19, 56, 57, 92, 121, viii. Stirling, 191, 

201, ix. Fife, 231, 612 
Forth river, viil Clackmannan, 2, 3, 6, 

121, 122, StirUng, 48, 50, 101, 214, 

216, 264, 304, 306, 391, 396, x. Perth. 

1151, 1160, 1248 
Forth and Cart canal, vii. Renfirew, 563 
Forth and Clyde canal, vi Lanark, 104, 

158, 202, 242, 246, 411, 699, 945, 

viii. Dunbarton, 60, 138, 151, 173,202, 

203, Stirling, 23, 24, 140, 160, 197, 

211,213 
Forth, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 39 
Forth village, vi. Lanark, 83, 90 
Forthill of Dun,xi. Forfiir, 123 
Forthar castle, xi For&r, 174 
Forthar limeworks, ix. Fife, 1 05 
Forthy water, xi Kincardine, 153 
Fortingal parish, x. Perth, 527— valley,532 
Fort Matilda, vii. Renfrew, 410 
Forton property, ii Haddington, 45 
Fortrose bay and point, xiv. Ross, 848, 

350 — cross, 353— town, 354 
Fort William village, &c. xiv. Inverness, 

117, 118,122,123,124,125 
Forvie bum, xii. Aberdeen, 589— church, 

593— sands, 597 
Foss house, x. Perth, 769~~quoad Mcra 

parish, 759, 779 
Fossoway and Tulliebole, united parishes 

of; X. Perth, 1016 
Fothringham hill, house, &c. xi. Forfiu-, 

235 
Foths, camp at, xiii Elgin, 86 
Foudland hills, xu. Aberdeen, 599, 728, 

748, 749, 757, xiii Ban^ 100 



Foula isle, xv. Shetland, 19, 74 
Foulden parish, ii Berwick, 261 — Chouse, 

265— village, 262 
FouldiielB, remains at, iii Roxbui]g^, 444 
Fountainbleau, spring at, iv. Dumfries, 3 
Fountainblow, Ruthven, xi. Forfiu*, 413 
Fountainhall property, &c. ii Hadding- 
ton, 131, 347 
Fountainhall villa^, i Edinburgh, 422 
Four lords* seat, xii. Aberdeen, 1022 
Fourmerkland tower, iv. Dumfries, 559 
FourmilehiU, village, i Edinburgh, 522 
Fourtowns barony, iv. Dumfries, 387 
Foveran parish, xii Aberdeen, 697-^ 

bum, 698— castle, 699— house, '698 
Fowlcauseway, the, v. Ayr, 39 
Fowlis, braes oC, x. Perth, 249— cro8B> 

254— village, 259 
Fowlis, den of, xi Forfar, 461, 571 
Fowlis castle, xiv. Ross, 366 — plantations^ 

324 
Fowlis Easter, annexed parish of^ xi For- 
far, 460 — castle, 461— church, 466 
Fowlis Wester parish, x. Perth, 249 
Fowlis Mowat property, xii Aberdeen, 

1110 
Fowlsheugh cliffis^i Kincardine, 213 
Foxley village, vi Lanark, 652 
Foxton house, ix. Fife, 8 
Foyers, &lls of^ xiv. Inverness, 1, 6, 521, 

53 
Francis* cave, xiv. Inverness, 146 
Franciscan monastery, Ajrr, v. Ayr, 37 
Franciscan monastery, Dumfries, iv, Dum- 
fries, 5 
Franciscan monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 

65 
Franciscan monastery, St Andrews, ix 

Fife, 468 
Franciscan monastery, Stirling, viii Stir- 
Ung, 423 
Frankfield loch, vi I^anark, 104, 206 
Fraochie loch, x. Perth, 450, 755, 1005 
Fraserburgh parish, xii Aberdeen, 249— 
bay, 250, 251— town, 253, 254~har- 
bour, xiii Banff, 42 
Frater hall, Dunfermline, ix. Fif!9, 851 
Freasgail caves, xv. Sutherland, 167 
FreblMiy district, xv. Orkney, 120 
Free glen, xv. Sutherland, 134 
Freebum inn, xv. Invemess, 115 
Freefield house, xii Aberdeen, 426 
Frenchland tower, iv. Dumfries, 114 
Frenchlaw, remains at, ii. Berwick, 171 
Frendraught bum, xii Aberdeen, 599— 

castle and house, 601 
Fresgo head, xv. Caithness, 14 
Freswick bay, xv. Caithness, 22 — bum, 

24 — castle, 24, 25— house, 27 
Freuchie, village o^ ix. Fife, 936 
Freuchy loch, x. Perth, 450, 755, 1005 
Freugh moss, iv. Wigton, 166 
Frew ford, viii. Stirling, 51— fort at, 52 
Friardykes, monAstor] «X»tYuVL^^\!&<s^^^ 
66 



Ixii 



OBNBEAL IHDBZ* 



Friara cane, Dunscore, iv. DumfrieB, 341 
Friars* croft, Dunbar, iL Haddington, 79 
Friars' croft, Fullarton, v. Ayr, 676 
Friars' Dubbt, Berrie, xi. Kincardine, 7 
Friars' gardens, Jedburgh, iii. Roxbuigh, 5 
Friare' glen, Fordoun, xi Kincardine, 86 
Friars' moor, vi. Lanark, 327 
Friar's vennel, Dumfries, ir. Dumfries, 1 1 
Friar's well, Ayr, v. Ayr, 37 
Friechlan isle, viiu Dunbarton, 156, 157 
Friockheim, village and qtioad $aera pa- 
rish of, xi. Forfar, 387, 390 
Frogden, remains at, iii. Roxbur^, 152 
Froon, see Fruin 
Frostly water, iii. Roxburgh, 428 
Fruid water, iii. Peebles, 59 — tower, 63 
Fruin glen, viii. Dunbarton, 66— water, 

70, 155, 156 
Fuirdstone, ancient parish of, xL Foi&r, 

519 
Fulbar property, vii. Renfrew, 1 97 
Fulden parish, ii. Berwick, 261 
Fullarton collieries, tl Lanark, 422 
Fullarton house, y. Ayr, 678 — town and 

quoad sacra parish, 426, 667, 685 
Fullarton wood, xi. Forfar, 249 
Fulton tower, iii. Roxburgh, 284 
Funtack bum, xiv. Inverness, 97 
Funzie bay, xv. Shetland, 23-— chapel, 25 
Furnace village, vii. Argyle, 27 
Fushiebridge village, i. Edinburgh, 184 
Futtie village, xii. Aberdeen, 5, 73 
Fjme, see Fine 
Fyrish hill, xiv. Ross, 333 
Fyvie parish, xii. Aberdeen, 315 — ^burgh, 
329— castle, 31 7, 320, 330— priory, 326 
Oaasker isle, xiv. Inverness, 1 46 
Gad, see Jed 
Oadgirth castle, v. A>t, 656— colliery, 

651, 660— tilework, (559 
Oadgirthholm village, v. Ayr, 662 
Oadvan preceptory, ix. Fife, 210 
Oady water, xii. Aberdeen, 633, 692, 693, 

728, 847, 1019, 1020 
Gogic house, xi. Forfiur, 493 
Gaick forest, xiv. Inverness, 66, 69 
Gail loch, xiL Aberdeen, 1026 
Gainmhich isle, xiv. Inverness, 145, 149 
Gair bridge, ix. Fife, 478 
Gair loch, vii. Argyle, 678, viii. Dun- 
barton, 65, 66y 70, 103, 109, 234 
Gair loch, xiv. Inverness, 245, Ross, 90, 

92 
Gairloch parish, xiv. Ross, 90 
Gair, springs at,iv. Dumfries, 276 
Gaim water, xii. Aberdeen, 772, 776 
Gaimey water, ix. Kinross, 39, 45, x. 

Perth, 1018, xii Aberdeen, 1049 
Gairney bridge school, ix. Kinross, 50, 51 
Gairsay isle, xv. Orkney, 196, 197 
Gaimside chapel, xii. Aberdeen, 783 
Gait loch, v. Ayr, 180 
Gaitnip craiss, xv. Orkney, 1 
Gala house, iii. Selkirk, 1 7 — water, i. Edin- 
burgh, 199, 398, 399, 400, 403, iii. 



Roxburgh, 51, 53,460, Selkirk, 11, 1^ 

79 
Galachlaw hill, i. Edinbuii^y & 
Galashiels parish and town, iii. Selkiik, 

11, Roxbui;^66 
Galbraith isle, viii. Dunbarton, 156, 167 
Galcantray, chapel at, xiv. Invemeaa, 458 
Galry village, ix. Fife, 578 
Galdus tomb, iv. Wigton, 2 
Gallaberry camp, iv. Dumfries, 454 
Gallala know, iii. Roxboigh, 26^1 
Gallan head, xiv. Ross, 151 
Gallaton village, ix. Fife, 135, 139 
Gallengad cascade, viii. Dimbartoo, 213 
Gallo hill, XV. Orkney, 1 14, 126 
Galloway house, iv. Wigton, 29 
Gallowbank of Annan, iv. Dumfries, 525 

—quarry, 531 
Gallowbank of Garvock, xi. Kincardine, 

39 
Gallowcaim of Boindie, xiiL Banfi^ 226 
Gallow cairn of Rosskeen, xiv. Ross, 271 
Gallowdnmi of Clunie, x. Perth, 1025 
Gallowflat house and property, vi. Lanark, 

377— tumulus, 383 
Gallowflat of Morton, iv. Dumfries, 96 
Gallo wgreen of Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 151 
GallowhiU of Altyre, xiil Elgin, 251 
Gallowhill of Auchterless, xii. Aberdeen, 

286 
Gallowhill of Banff, xiiL Banfl^ 2, 14 
Gallowhill of Campsie, viii. Stirling, 245 
GaUowhill of Cargill, x. Perth, 1170 
Gallowhill of Clatt, xii. Aberdeen, 850 
Gallowhill of Crieff, x. Perth, 497 
GaUowhill of Dalserf, vl Lanark, 733 
Gallowhill of Douglas, vi. Lanark, 489 
Gallowhill of Edzell, xL Forfar, 622 
Gallowhill of Errol, x. Perth, 386 
Gallowhill of Ethiebeaton, xi. Forfiur, 546 
Gallowhill of Fordoun, xi. Kincardine, 85 
Gallowhill of Garioch, xii. Aberdeen, 564 
Gallowhill of Grange, xiii. Banff, 214 
Gallowhill of Insch, xiL Aberdeen, 751 
Gallowhill of Kincardine, x. Perth, 1259 
Gallowhill of Kirkden, xi. Forfieur, 386 
Gallowhill of Kirkintilloch, viii Dunbar- 
ton, 169 
Gallowhill of Lecropt, x. Perth, 1161 
Gallowhill of Lunan, xi Forfar, 325 
Gallowhill of Maybole, v. Ayr, 365 
Gallowhill of Monzie, x. Perth, 273 
Gallowhill of Paisley quarry, vii. Ren- 
frew, 157 
Gallowhill of Pettie, xiv. Inverness, 391 
Gallowhill of Roseneath, viiL Dunbarton, 

104, 124 
Gallowhill of Ruthven, xi. For^, 413 
Gallowhill of Terr^les, iv. Kirkcudbri|dit, 

232 
Gallow know of Broughton, iiL Peebles, 

87 
Gallow know of Kinross, ix. Kinross, 2 
Gallow know of Oxnam, iii. RinburRh, 
261 



OSNBEAL INDEX. 



Ixiii 



Gallowlaw of Kinnell, xi. Forfar, 399 
Gallowside of Coldingham, ii. Berwick, 

284 
Oallowslot of Kelton, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

156 
Oalston parish, v. Ayr, 178 — ^moor, 184 

— village, 187 
Oalt head, xy. Orkney, 79 
Galtrigil head, xiv. Invemen, 324 
Galtway church, iv. Kirkcudbright, 22 
Galval ca^le, xiii Bani^ 864 
Gamescleuch tower, iii. Selkirk, 68 
Gameflhill limeworks, v. Ayr, 291, 801 
Gameahope bum, iii. Peebles, 59^och, 

60 
Gamhair water, x. Perth, 529, 540 
Gamhuinn loch, xiii. £1^, 187, 188 
Gamrie parish, xiii. Banff, 271 — battle 

of, 282— bay, 271— head, 145, J271 
Gannachy bridge, xL Forfkr, 192, Kin- 
cardine, 118 
Ganuh loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
. Gaoir water, x. Perth, 529, 540 
Gaoth cheinn hill, v.«Bute, 2 
Garafad property, xiv. Inverness, 264 
Garallan colliery, v. Ayr, 117— property, 

264 
Garbhdhun, falls of, x. Perth, 541 
GarbhmheaU hill, x. Perth, 529 
Garbhreachd loch, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Garbhreisa isle, vii. Aigyle, 47 
Garbhuisge water, x. Perth, 351 
Garchory, remains found at, xiL Aber- 
deen, 546 
Garden, chrome ore at, xv. Shetland, 108 
Garden, plantations at, viii. Stirling, 266 

—tower, 268 
Garden of Eden, the, v. Ayr, 365 
Gardenstown village, xiii. Banff, 271, 286, 

291 
Garder house, xv. Shetland, 115 
Gardyne castle, xi. Forfar, 386 
Gare colliery, vi Lanark, 568-— lime- 
works, 569 
Gare loch, vii. Aigyle, 678, viii, Dunbar- 

ton, 65, 66, 70, 103, 109, 234 
Garelochhead village, viiil Dunbarton, 76 

— chapel, 78 
Gar£&rran, remains at, viii Stirling, 106 
Gargunnock parish, viii Stirling, 48 — 
bum, 51— distillery, 59 — house, 53 — 
peel, 5 1 
Garie water, xi. Forfisur, 165 
Garioch, see Chapel of Garioch 
Garion bridge, vL Lanark, 750 
Gariongill collieries, vi. Lanark, 775— 

railway, 159 
Garion mill, vi. Lanark, 726 
Garleton hills, ii Haddington, 1, 3, 358 
Garlick, Deirs dike at, iv. Wigton, 233 
GarUes casUe, iv. Kirkcudbright, 128 
Garlieeton bay, iv. Wigton, 22, 23, 24— 

village, 33 
Garlogie mills, xiL Aberdeen, 1096, 1099 
Oarmiston, cairns at, xv. Orlmej, 68 



Garmond village, xil Aberdeen, 765, 769 
Garmouth harbour, xiii. Banff, 42— pro- 
perty, Elgin, 44— common, 51— har- 
bour and village, 52, 53, 55 
Gamkirk burn, vi. Lanark, 401— clayfield, 
&c. 402, 408— house, 407— limeworks, 
402— plantations, 404 — railway, 159, 
205,411,664 
Gamock water, v. Ayr, 211, 212, 427, 

436,620,690,691,811,812 
Garpel water, v. Ayr, 130, 149, iv. Diun- 

fries, 102, 125, Kirkcudbright, 99 
Garpel limeworks, vii. Renfrew, 83 
Garr glen, x. Perth, 426 
Garrabost, limestone at, xiv. Ross, 120 
Garraghuism, cave at, xiv. Ross, 116 
Garrel, annexed parish of, iv. Dumfries, 

67 — church, 69— water, 68 
Garrel bum, viiu Stirling, 141, 145, 146 
— hill, 140 — ^mill and well, 147— quar- 
ries, 142 
Garrel, remains at, vi Lanark, 69 
Garret, plantations at, xi. Kincardine, 77 
Garrion bum, vi Lanark, 564, 565, 566, 
609— bridge, 609— gill, 611-.hon8e» 
617 
Garroch head, v. Bute, 83 
Garroch hill, v. Ayr, 106 
Garroch house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 112 
Garrol, remains at, xi Kincardine, 336 
Garrold wood, xi. Kincardine, 77 
Garron head, xi Kincardine, 214, 246 
Garry loch, x. Perth, 540, 559— g^en, 559 
—water, 426, 559, 560, 639, 640, 757, 
759 
Garry water, xiv. Inverness, 505 
Garry point, ii Haddington, 318 
Garryhome castle, v. Ayr, 365 
Garscadden house,' vii. Renfrew, 8, viii 

Dunbarton, 43, 49, 50 
Garscube, battle of, viii Dunbarton, 41 — 
collieries, 38 — quarry, 57 — house and 
mills, 38, 49, vi Lanark, 102 
Garson point, xv. Orkney, 47 
Gart house, x. Perth, 356 
Gartcloss colliery, vi. Lanark, 644 
Gartfeny house, vi Lanark, 407 — woods, 

404 
GartgUl colliery, vi Lanark, 644 — moss, 

656 
Garth castle, x. Perth, 650 
Garth house, xv. Shetland, 57 
Garthland property, vii Renfrew, 92— 

plantations, 99 
Guihiand tower, iv. Wigton, 164 
Gartie chapel, xv. Sutherland, 201 
Gartinqueen loch, vi Lanark, 401 
Gartloch house, vi Lanark, 407 
Oartly parish, xiii Banff, 95— castle, 97 
Gartmore house, x, Perth, 1 108— proper* 

ty, viii Stirling, 296 
Gartmom dam, viii Clackmannan, 8 — 

hill, 3 
Gartness, viii Stirling, 104^«astle, 105 
— fiais, 101— mills, 110 



bdv 



aBNBBAL UTDBX. 



Qartsherrie bum, vi. Lanark, 666— col- 
lieries, 643— ironworks, 160, 24S, 648, 
658 — -quoad aacra pariah, 665 
Gartshore loch, viii Dunbarton, 173— 

property, &c. 184, 191 
Garturk quarry, &c. yi. Lanark, 648 
Oartwhynean village, x. Perth, 1021 
Garvald, supprased parish of, iv. Dum- 
fries, 151— church, 69— linns, 399 
Garvald and Bara, united parishes o( ii. 

Haddington, 95 
Garvald, camp at, ii. Haddington, 96 — 

village, 95, 98 
Garvald house, vi Lanark, 52 — ^remains 

at, 69 
Garvald mills, viii Stirling, 127 
Garvald point, vii. Renfrew, 535 
Garvaldfoot hill, vi. Lanark, 49— wood 

at, ilL Peebles, 157 
Garvalt cascade, xii. Aberdeen, 648 
Garvaiy hill, xiv. Ross, 435 
Garve water, xiv. Ross, 400 
Garvellan isle, xiv. Sutherland, 85 
Garvelloch isles, viL Aigyle, 534 
Garvock parish, xL Kincardine, 22 — hill, 

23, 27, 28, 270, 298— remains on, 35 
Garvock house, x. Perth, 720 
Garwall bum, x. Perth, 1225 
Gasclune castle, x. Perth, 915, 1004 
Gasconhall castle, x. Perth, 337 
Gask house, xii Aberdeen, 995— proper- 
ty 991 
Gask hill, ix. Fife, 28 
Gask, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 519 
Gask parish, x. Perth, 281 — house, 282 
Gaaswater, clay at, v. Ayr, 324 
Gatehead colliery, v. Ayr, 685 
Gatehope bum, iii Peebles, 5 
Gatehouse village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 292, 

298, 303 
Gateshaw hill, iii Roxburgh, 448 
Gateside house, xii. Aberdeen, 238 — 

calm at, 732 
Gateside village, v. A3rr, 593 
Gateside viUage, ix. Fife, 779 
Gateside, remains at, xi. For&r, 532 
Gateside well, vi. Lanark, 399 
Gateside factory, vii. Renfrew, 336-— vil- 
lage, 330 
Gattonaide hills, iii. Roxburgh, 52 — vil- 
lage, 67 
Gauir water, x. Perth, 529, 540 
Gaul loch, vii Argyle, 300, 339 
Gaval property, viu. Stirling, 141 
Gannton village, ii Berwick, 236, 238, 

240 
Gaviside house, i Edinburgh, 306 
Gavock hill, xi. Kincardine, 129 
Gawreer bum, v. Ayr, 523 
Geanach hill, xii. Aberdeen, 787 
Geanies house, xiv. Ross, 461 
Gear abhain water, vii. Aigyle, 1 67 
Gear-amhuinn water, vii Argyle, 6 
Geary pot, a cave, xi. Forfar, 492 
Ged, see Jed 



Geddes hill and castle, xiii Nairn, 1— 

house, &c 2, 3 
Geddes well, iii. Peebles, 60 
Geddeston village, xiv. Ross, 392 
Geil water, vi. Lanark, 302 
Gela hamlet, xv. Shetland, 95 
Gellan hill, xii. Aberdeen, 957 
Gellie bum, ix. Fife, 148— loch, 128, 148, 

166 
Gellybum quarries, x. Perth, 166 
Gelston castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 161— 

church, 170 
Gelt water, â–¼. Ayr, 325 
Genner hill, remains at, vi Lanark, 303 
George IVth^s bridge, i. Edinburgh, 646 
George Wal8on1ihospital,i £dinburgfa,72S 
Geranton moat, iv. Kirkcudbright, 195 
Gerardine*s cave, xiii. Elgin, 147 
Gerston clachan, xv. Caithness, 74 
Ghara&da point, xiv. Inverness, 240 
Gharbhlagun hill, x. Perth, 529 
Ghartin hill, xiii El^, 124 
Gho8t*8 know, viii Stirling, 324 
Ghulbhuinn hill, x. Perth, 786 
Oiant'h fort, vii Argyle, 385 
Giants grave, vii Argyle, 205 
Giant's grave, iii Peebles, 117 
Giant's leg, xv. Shetland, 8 
Gibbon hill, x. Perth, 424, 434 
Gibbs cross, ii Berwick, 72 
Gibliston, limestone at, ix. Fife, 916 
Giffen barony, v. Ayr, 576, 581— caatle, 

574 
GifFerton village, ix. Fife, 30 
Giflheck quarry, vii Renfrew, 35 
Gifford bum, ii Haddington, 154, 271, 

272, 359— vil^je, 154, 158, 165 
Gifford gait, the, ii Haddington, 6 
Gigha isle, vu, Argyle, 377, 394, xiv. In- 

vemess, 200 
Gigha and Cara, united parishes of, vii 

Argyle, 394 
Gight castle, xii Aberdeen, 330— water, 

963 
Gighty water, xi For&r, 239, 394 
Gigulum isle, vii Aigjle, 395, 396 
Gil bum, ii Linlithgow, 122 
Gilbertfield castle, vi Lanark, 425 
Gilcomston, quocul aacra parish of, xii. 

Aberdeen, 1077, 1078— village, 1075 
Gildermony, stones at, xiv. Ross, 343 
Giliillan church, iv, Wigton, 28 
Gilgal village, iv. Dumfiiea, 142 
Gilkerscleugh house, &c. vi Lanark, 500, 

504 
GiU bay, iv. Wigton, 201 
Gill bum, vi Lanark, 848 
GiU of Cree, iv. Kirkcudbright, 119 
Gillanderli cave, xv. Sutherland, 25 
Gillespie's Hospital, i. Edinburgh, 725 
Gillies' hiU, Beith, v. Ayr, 578 
Gillies' knowe, v. Ayr, 315 
Gilliestongues, spring at, iii. Roxburgh, 2 
GiUmillscrofl property, v. Ayr, 132 — 

quarry, J 42 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Ixv 



Gills Imy, XT. Caithness, 22 

Gilmerton village, i Edinburgh, 12'— cave | 

at, 6 
(jrilmerton house, ii Haddington, 48 
Gilmerton village, x. Perth, 259, 257, 259, 

275, 278 
(iilmour's linn, viil Stirling, 307 
Oilnockic, camp at, iv. Dumfries, 490 
Gilp, loch, vii. Argyle, 678 
Gilrig, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 70 
Gilrivie property, xi. Forfar, 123 
GiUton village, ix. Fife, 442 
Gipsies' steps, v. Ayr, 449 
Girdlencfls, xi. Kincardine, 195 — light- 
house, 198, 201 
Girgenti house, v. Ayr, 734 
Girlsta loch, xv. Shetland, 0*8 
Gimi goe, xv. Caithness, 1 18 — castle, 119, 

134,139 
Girsac water and falls, xiv. Ross, 178 
(}irthgate of Melrose, iii. Roxburgh, 58 
Girthgatc of Soutra, i. Edinburgh, 536' 
Girthhead house, iv. Dumfries, 141 
Girthill quarry, v. Ayr, 193 
Girthon pariah, iv. Kirkcudbright, 291 
Girvan parish, v. Ayr, 394 — bay, 402 — 
mains, improvcmento at, 401 — town, 
403— water, 333, 334, 350, 381, 395, 
402, 492, 493, 495 
Girvel water, vi Lanark, 302 
Gizzen briggs, the, xiv. Ross, 281, xv. Su- 
therland, 2 
Glack, remains found at, xii. Aberdeen, 

822 
Glack of Newtyle, xi. Forfiir, 558 
Glackhamis pass, xiii. Banff, 111 
Glackindaline c&»tle, vil Argyle, 349 
Gladefield house, xiv. Ross, 419 
Gladsmuir parish, ii. Haddington, 173 
Glaidney Cotton, village, ix. Fife, 9 
Glaissean loch, vii. Argyle, 678 
Glamaig hill, xiv. Inverness, 219 
Glammiss castle, Kinghom, ix. Fife, 804 
Glammiss parish, xL For&r, 337 — bum, 

3;^— castle, 343— village, 347, 348 
Glanderton plantations, vii. Rcnfi«w, 322 
Glasbheinn hill, xiv. Ross, 171 
Glaschoiren hill, vii. Argyle, 124 
Glasford parish, vi. Lanark, 294 
Gla^ford mill bridge, vi. Lanark, 299 
(jilasgow, city of, vi. Lanark, 100, 901 
CJlasgow and Ayr railway, v. Ayr, 66, 683, 

829, vii. Renfrew, 562 
Glasgow and Greenock railway, vii. Ren- 
frew, 452, 561 
Glasgow and Paisley railway, ui. Renfrew, 

279 
Glasgow, Paisley, and Johnstone canal, vL 
I^nark, 204, 699, viL Renfrew, 277, 
201,563 
Glaahfarquhar, remains found at, xi Kin- 
cardine, 182 
Glaslaw hill, xL Kincardine, 213— bum, 

216 
Giasnock water, v. Ayr, 476— house^ 482 

VOL. XV. 



Glass parish, xiii. Banff, 203 

Glass river, xiv. Inverness, 363, 484, 485, 

487— strath, 363 
Glass loch, xiv. Ross, 313 
(rlaaaary ]>arish, viL Argyle, 675 
Glassaugh house, xiii Banff, 183, 188 
GlasschiU, the, xil Aberdeen, 417, 526 
Glassel house, &c. xi. Kincardine, 326— i 

Umeworks, 330 
Glass Elian isle, xiv. Ross, 184 
Glasserton parish, iv. Wigton, 36 — hill, 

38— house, 47 
Glassletter loch, xiv. Ross, 172 
Glussmile hill, xi. Forfar, 422 
Glassmounthill, ix. Fife, 801— house, 810 
Glaudhall house, vL Lanark, 407 
Glazert burn, v. Ayr, 290, 728 
Glazcrt bum, viiL Stirling, 236 
Glebe bum, vi. Lanark, 848 
Glen house, iil. Peebles, 44 
Glen bum, xii. Aberdeen, 728 
Glen bum, xiv. Ross, 143 
Glen of Hobkirk quarry, iii. Roxburgh, 

210 
Glen of Morham, ii. Haddington, 264 
Glen of Ness pass, v. Ayr, 309 
Glen of North Berwick, ii. Haddington, 

319 
Glenae house, iv. Dumfries, 69— tower, 44 
Glenaffrick, xiv. Inverness, 365 
Glenaheurich, vil Argyle, 125 
Glenaladale, vii. Argyle, 125 
Glenalla hill, v. Ayr, 492 
Glenalmond, x. Perth, 263, 488 
Glenap, iv. Wigton, 77 
Glenapp, v. Ayr, 410, 418 — chapel, &c. 

423 
Glenaray, viL Argyle, 2, 6 
Glenarbuck house, &c. viiL Dunbarton, 

16, 241— rocks at, 17 
Glcnarklet, viii. Stirling, 89 
Glenartney, x. Perth, 578 
Gienavon hills, xiii. Banff, 296 — foicst, 

297 
Glenayes castle, v. Ayr, 365 
Glenb^, xiv. Inverness, 132 
Glenbeich, cascade at, x. Perth, 581 
Glenbennan hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 266 
Glenbervie pariah, xL Kincardine, 165 — 

house, 72 
Glenbran, x. Perth, 219 
Glenbrantor house, vii. Argyle, 1 05 
Glenbreckry, vii. Argyle, 413 
Glenbrichty, xi. Forfar, 421 
Glenbuck loch, v. Ayr, 149 — village, 153, 

156 
Glcnbucket parish, xil Aberdeen, 436 — 

castle, 436, 544 
Glenbuckio, x. Perth, 344— house, 347 
Glenbum hall, iii. Roxburgh, 14 
Glcncainail, vii. Argyle, 278, 279 
Glencaim parish, iv. Dumfries, 330 
Glencannich, xiv. Inverness, 363 
Glencaple pier, iv. Dumfries, 352^village, 

356 



Ixvi 



QEKERAL IVDEX. 



(ilcncarrick ciiscuile, i\. DunifHeH, .'S-U— 

distillery. IJG 
OlencirHc hotiiie, x. Peith, 1215 
UlenciitAcol hill, v. Buto, 43 
(ilcnchiitt, xii. Alx'ixleen, 787 
filencloy, v. Hute 4 

Cilenc<>e\ vii. Argylc, 225 — massacre, 238 
Glenconny, spring at» xii. Aberdeen, 580 
Cllenconvinth, xiv. Inverness, 484 
Glencotho, iii. Peebles, 79 
Olencmggacb quarri(>H, xv. Caithnev, 19 
Olencrnigie bum, iii. Peebles, 59 
Glencrieti'leadminc, iv. l>umfries,300,303 
OlencrtMU or (ileucorse parish, i. Kdin- 

burKh, 3lO~bum, 311— house, 317 
Cilondale, xiv. luvemefls, 324 
Glendaruell house, vit Argj'le, 673 
Glendoun cliils, iii. Peebles, 37 
Glendelvine house, x. Perth, 676 
Glendhu Im-h, xv. Sutherland, 119, 120, 

121 
Glendinning castle, &c. iv. Dumfries, 430, 

433 
Olendochart, x. Perth, 1077 
Glendochart castle, iv. Wigton, 233 
Glendoick house, x. Perth, 1213, 1215— 

village, 395 
Glendorch castle, vi. Lanark, 502 
Glendouran, vi. l^nark, 500 
Glendovan parish, x. Perth, 333— house, 

3U5 
Glendow, vii. Argyle, 474, viii. Stirling, 89 
( jlendronach distillery, xii. Aberdeen, 601 
Gleiidubh lead mines, vii Argvlc, 170 
Glcnduckie hill, ix. Fife, 596, 598 
Glenduff hill, vi. Ijanark, 653 
Glendufjlass, viii, Dunbarton, 156 
Glendye, xi. Kincardine, 232 
Glenc^gle church, x. Perth, 299 
Gleneani houhc, x. Perth, 864 
Glenelchuifj, xiv. Kohs, 170 
Glenclg parish, xiv. Inverness, 128 — bay, 

i7>.— district, 129 
Glenellrig house, viii. Stirling, 277 
Glenennich, xiii. Elgin, 137 
Olenerichkie, x. Perth, 559 
Olcnericht, x. Perth, 898-.bridge, 248 
Glcnesk, xi. Forfar, 664 
Gleneslin, iv. Dumfriets 337 
Glenespig, v. Bute, 46 
Glenetive, vii. Argyle, 473 
Gleneuchar, vii. Arg}le, 62 
Glenfaimess, remains at, &c. xiii. Nairn, 

31,35 
(ilenfhlloch, viii. Dunbarton, 96, 235, x. 

Perth, 1078 
Glenfamate hill. x. Perth, 638 
Glenfarquhar, xi. Kincanline, 68 
Glenfifis, v. Bute, 46 
Glenfemlnr, x. Perth, 559 
Olenfeshie, xiv. Inverness, 82 
Olenfiddich, xiii. Banff, 103— forest, 104 
Olenfinart, vii. Argyle, 572 — house, 610 
Glcntinlass, viii. Dunbarton, 156 
Glenfinnon tower, vii. Argjle, 1 48 



Glenfishie forest, xiii Elgin, 57 
Olenfoot, pl«ntatiop» at, TiiL Cfaurkaia' 

nan, 70 
Olenfoot village, x. Perth, 857, R5<» 
OlenfoiBa, viL Ar^gyle, 278, 279 
Glenfbrth distillery, iL L»inlitbginr, l^ 
Glenfhiin hill mnd Taller, viiL Danbaztflc 

66— battle ot 74, 156 
Glengaber, iiL Peebles, 167 — bom, 39 
Glengaim, suppressed pariah oC xii Aher 

deen, 772 
Glcngap bum, ir. Kirkciidbright, 2J» 
Glengamock castle and propertr, t. .Avr. 

691, 700, 704, 706 
Olengarr pass, x. Perth, 426 
Glengarry, xiv. Inverness, 511 
Glengarry, x. Perth, 559 
Glengaw bum. v. Ayr, 2 
Glengloy, xiv. Inverness, 506, 507 
Glengoliie, xv. SutherUind, 84 
Glengonaa forest, vi. Lanark, 332 
Glengonner bum, vL L4inark, 4ii8 
Glengunney house, xiii. Elgin, 70 
Glenhaliniidel quarry, v. Bute, 10 
Glenhalton, xiv. Inverness, 288 
Glenhead, castlehill of, v. Arr. 257 
Glenhead village, vii. Renfirevr, 98, 101 
Glenhigton, xiv. Inverness, 286 
GlenhilU monument at, iv. KirkcuJhwb'-^ 
243 

Glcnholm, annexed parish oC iiL PctUrii 
78 

Glcnhowan village, iv. Dumfries, 356 
Gleniffer braes, vii Renfrew, 140, 1«0 
Glenigag, xiv. Ross, 2S6 
Glening, vii. Argyle, 126 

Glen-intshuidhe, 'remains at, v. Bnie, >4 
Gleniorsa, v. Bute, 46 
(tlenisla parish, xi. Forfar, 421 
Glenkens societv, iv. Kirkcudbriffhu l"'^ 

113.278 
Glenkctland, vii. Argyle, 473 
Glenkiln bum, iv. Dumfries. 67 
Glenkindy house, xii. Aberdeen, 547 
Olenkinglaas, viL Argyle, 472 
Glenkirk, iii. Peebles, 79 
Olenlacht, stone at, iv. Dumfries, 467 
Glsnlatterach bum, Ac. xiiL Elgin, 1.% 
Glenlcan, vii. Arg>ie, .572 
Glenlednock, x. Perth, 578 
Glenlee park. iv. Kirkcudbright, 101»,lli 
Glenleith hill, iv. IhimfH(>s, S»l 
filenlichd, xiv. Ross, 1 82 
(Jlenlivet, xiii. Banff. 123— .battle, i:W- 

distilleries, 137 — limestone, 127 
Glonlochay, vii Arg\)e, 84, x. Perth. 7i»-2, 

1078 
Glenlogy bum, xi. Forfar, 165 
Glenloig, limestone at, v. Bute, 44, 45 
Glenloth, xv. Sutherland, 188, 191 
Glenluce.iv. Wigton, 66, 69 village, 71, 

74 
Glenlude, iii. Perth, 79 — bum, 39 
Glenlyon, x. Perth, 529, 703 
Glenmaid plantations, iv. DumfKcs» 55 



3 



GBKEBAL IKDBX. 



Ixvii 



Glenmailen, camp at, xi. Kincardine, 

249 
Glenmarkie burn, xi. ForfiEur, 421 
Glenmarlin pool, iv. Dumfries, 502 
GlenmaMan, vii. Argyle, 572 
Glenmeallin, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 601, 

734 
Glenmeuble, vii Argyle, 126 
Glenmill bleachfield, viii. Stirling, 255 
Glenmillan, cairns at, xii. Aberdeen, 1092 
Glenmore, vii. Aig>'le, 178 — bay, 156 
Glenmore, v. Ayr, 323 — ^water,*476 
Glenmore forest, xiil Elgin, 52, 57 — loch, 

92 
Glenmore, vii. Inverness,, 132, 233, 524 
Glenmore, x. Perth, 531 
Glenmoustan, xiv. Inverness, 37— *chapel, 

&c. 14,49 
Glenmuick, Tullich, and Glengaim, unit- 
ed parishes of, xii. Aberdeen, 772 
Glennoe, vii. Argyle, 472 
Glenn V bum, x. Perth, 1096 — remains at, 

221' 
Glenoig burn, xi. Forfar, 165 
Glenogle, xi. Forfar, 201, 204 
Olenogle, x. Perth, 345 
Glenormistone house, iii- Peebles, 30 
(ilenprosen, xL Forftur, 158— ^;hapel, 185, 

452 
Glenquaich, x. Perth, 703, 753 
Glenquhargan craig, iv. Dumfries, 499, 

500 
Glenquicken moor, &c. iv. Kirkcudbright, 

332, 333 
Glenquiech house, xi, Forfju-, 200 
Glenquoich, xiv. Inverness, 504 
Glenrath tower, iii. Peebles, 1 16 
Glenrinnes, xiii. Danff, 112— chapel, 108 
Glenriska bum, iii. Peebles, 59 
CUenrosa, v. Bute, 3 

Glenroy, antiquities found at, xiL Aber- 
deen, 613 
Glenroy, xiv. Inverness, 504 — roads, 505 
Glensalloch, vii. Argyle, 474 
Glensanda castle, vii. Argyle, 241— -hill, 

227 
Glensannox, v. Bute, 3 
Glensassum, battle of, x. Perth, 547 
Glensax, iii. Selkirk, 79 
Glenshant, remains at, v. Bute, 23 
Glenshce, xi. Foriar, 422 
Glenshee, x. Perth, 785 — quarries, 199, 

428 
Glensheil parish, xiv. Ross, 181 — battle 

of, 193— valley, 182 
(llenshellis house, vii. Argyle, 105 
Glensheraig, v. Bute, 4 — remains at, 23 
Glenshira, vii. Argyle, 26 
Glenshirra house, xiv. Invemess, 427 
Glenside quarry, v. Ayr, 494, 501 
(llenskenno farm, xi. Forfar, 123 
Glenspean, xiv. Inverness, 504, 505 
Glenstang bum, v. Ayr, G3R 
Glenstra^rrar, vii. Inverness, 363, 496 
Glenstroe, vii. Argyle, 84 



Glentaggart chapel, vi. Lanark, 494 
Glentanner hill, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 1048, 

1051 — annexed parish, 1047 
Glentarkie house, ix. Fife, 159 
Glenterra, remains at, iv. Wigton, 85 
Glentilt, x. Perth, 559 
Glentirran fort, viii. Stirling, 268 
Glentmim house, xiv. Inverness, 422, 427 
Glenturret, x. Perth, 726 
Glentvan hill, vii. Renfrew, 353— house, 

362, 370 
Glenuigg, xiv. Inverness, 286 
Glenurchnv Agricultural Association, vii. 

Arg}'le/lOO 
Glenurchay and Inishail, united parishes 

of, >'ii. Argyle, 82 
Glenure, vii. Argyle, 473 
Glcnure house, x. Perth, 1086 
Glenurquhart, xiv. InvemcsH, 37 
Glenurv distillerv, xi. Kincardine, 261 
Glenvale, ix. Fife, 776— bum, 921 
Glcnvemock, remains at, iv. Wigton, 232 
Glenwhurry hills, iv. Dumfries, 316 
Glespin bum, vi. Lanark, 479— coal at, 

500— house, 504 
Glosterlaw, remains at, xi. Forfar, 399— 

fairs, 411 
Goair loch, xv. Sutherland, 17 
Goales den, ix. Fife, 533 
Goatfell, V. Bute, 2 
Goatmilk hill, fort on, ix. Fife, 197 
Gobhar fort, vii. Argjle, 145 
GobUn*s cave, x. Perth, 351 
Gogar bum, L Edinburgh, 78, 206 — 
camp, 90 — property, 209, 213— rec- 
tory, 240— village, 222 
Gogarbum house, i. Edinbiu^h, 214 
Gogarpark house, i. Edinburgh, 214 
Gogarstane village, i. Edinburgh, 139 
G(^ glen, V. Ayr, 788 — hill, 791— water, 

789 
Goil loch, viii. Dunbarton, 95, vii. Ar- 
gyle, 702— water, 704 
Goldberry head, v. Ayr, 244— battle at, 

250 
Goldielands tower, iii Roxburgh, 380, 

393 
Goldielea house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
Golford, remains at, xiii. Naim, 12 
GoUachie, xiiL Banff, 247— bum, 250— 

distillery, 255 
Gollanfield property, xiv. Inverness, 378, 

398 
Oollie glen, xv. Sutherland, 84 
Golspie parish, xv. Sutherland, 24 — bum, 

,'5.— chupel, 33— village, 35, 89 
Golyn chapel, ii. Haddington, 210— pro- 
perty, 207 
Gometra isle, vii. Argyle, 340, 345, 351 
Gonachan bum, viii. Stirling, 40 
Goo house, xi. Kincardine, 328 
Goodie's knowe, viii. Stirling, 326 
Goodhope, coins found at, iv. Dumfries^ 

158 
Gorbals parish, see Glasgow and Oovan 



Ixviii 



GENERAL INDE2. 



Gordon hall, xii. Aberdeen, 750 
Gordon parish, iL Berwick, 33 — village, 

34,36 
Gordon castle, xiii. Elgin, 115, 116, 118, 

119 
Gordon's hospital, xii. Aberdeen, 45 
Gordon *s mills &ctory,xiL Aberdeen, 1077 
Gordon's mills village, xiv. Uoss, 41, 49 
Gordonstown village, xii Aberdeen, 288 
Gore bum,L Edinburgh, 50, 151 
Gorebridge village, I Edinburgh, 52, 53, 

151 
Goi^gask bum, xiv. Inverness, 419 
Gorget tree, iv. Dumfries, 175 
Gorgham's tower, iii. Peebles, 116 
Gorm loch, xiv. Inverness, 491, xv. Su- 
therland, 217 
Gortan Allister, v. Bute, 33 
Qorthy district, x. Perth, 249 — house, 

251 
Gortleg house, xiv. Inverness, 373 
Gorum loch, vii. Argyle, 645 
Gory castle, xi. Fot&r, 490 
Goseland hill, iii. Peebles, 79 
Gosford bay, ii. Haddington, 250^iouse, 

252— hospital, 253 
Gouch stone, xii. Aberdeen, 122 
Goukhall, spring at, iv. Dumfries, 276 
Gourdie house, x. Perth, 1025 
Gourdon hilU xi. Kincardine, 2, 52^vil- 

lagc, 3, 10, 16 
Oourock bay, vii. Renfrew, 406 — castle 
and house, 520— quoad sacra parish, 
•499— vilhigo, 526 
Gourock water, v. Ayr, 246 
Govan parish, vi. Lanark, 668 — collieries, 
671 — factories, 697 — ironworks, 696 — 
monastery, 674 — village, 693 
Govan hill craig, xi. ForfJEir, 246 — wood, 

250 
(rovan muir, battle of, vi. Lanark, 674 
Gow house, xi. Kincardine, 328 
Oowanslmnk village, xi. Forfar, 498 
Gowell isle, xiv. Boss, 118 
(Jower mount, xi. Kincardine, 170 
Gowkhall village, ix. Fife, 710 
GowkHcrafl nuraerv, v. Avr, 8 
Gowland hill, viii. 'Stirling, 403, 407 
(jownies point, iv. Wigton, 201 
(low's ciutle, xiii. El^jin, 149 
Gozlinpton loch, vi. I^anark, 470 
Oling Klang cave, xv. Orknev, 13 
Gloe loch, ix. Fife, 829 
(ilomach falls, xiv. Ilo»s, 173 
Gloom castle, viii. Clackmannan, 103-.- 

hilU8l,103 
Glooniingyide bum, viii. Clackmannan, 67 
Glorat house, viii. Dunbarton, 184, itir- 

lin^;. 244 
(Jloup cave, xv. Orkney, 170 — bay, Shet- 
land, 24 — house, 26 
(ilour-oure-em hills, ii. Linlithpnr, 55 
(Jlour-owre-em hills, x. Perth, 491 
(ilow loch, ix. KinrosjH, 39 
Gloy glen, xiv. Inverness, 506, 507 



Glumeshohn isle, xv. Orkney, 191 
Glunamore isle, vii Argyle, 414 
Gluss voe, XV. Shetland, 71 — isle, ib, 
Glutt district, XV. Caithness, 79 
Gracemount hill, L Edinburgh, 8 
Graden bum, ii. Berwick, 200 — village, 
208 — ^hills, iii. Roxburj^, 145 — place, 
151 
Graemshall house, xv. Orkney, 218 
Gracmsay isle, xv. Orkney, 27, 40 
Grahame's castle, viii. Stirling, 322 
Grahame's dyke, ii. Linlithgow, 67, viii. 
Dunbarton, 20, 141, 1 87, Stirling, 4, 11, 
195 
Orahame's hag, iv. Dumfries, 70 
Grahame's knowe, xi. Forfar, 559 
Grahameslaw, caves at, iii. Roxburgh, 226 
Grahamestoun >illage, vii. Renfrew, 330 
Gnilmmestown villi^ viii. Stirling, 4, 19 
Graitney parish and hill, iv. Dumfries, 

262 
Grampians, viii Stirling, 89, x. Perth, 199, 
249, 349, 424, 491, 559, 578, 725, 752, 
1096, xi. Forfiir, 191, 201,312,337,383, 
435, 688, Kincardine, 68, 1 11, 170, 324, 
xiii. Bai^, 296, xiv. Inverness, 64, 81, 
191— battle of, xi. Kincardine, 250 
Grandholm house, xii Aberdeen, 1076— 

factories, 1077 
Grandtully castle, x. Perth, 769 
Grange house, &c. v. Ayr, 436, 451, 453 

— quarries, 438 
Grange parish, xiiL Banff, 213 
Gninge coalfield, ix. Fife, 519, 521— dis- 
tillery, 4 1 6 — house, 4 1 5 — quarries, 408 
Grange, chajjcl at, xi. Forfar, 490 — fossil 

remains at, 672 — house, 548 
Grange burn, iv. Kirkcudbright, 5 
(Jrange house, ii. Linlithgow, 68 
Grange plantations, iii Roxburgh, 194 
Grange burn, viii Stirling, 3 
Gningefell hill, iv. Dumfries, 195 
Grangehall house, xiii. Elgin, 202, 206 
Grangemouth town and quoad sacra pa- 
rish, viii. Stirling, 2, 24 
Grangemuir house, ix. Fife, 616, 618 
Orangepans village, ii LinUthgow, 71, 72 
Grant castle, xiv. Inverness, 434, 437, 438 
Gmnton pier, &c. i Edinburgh, 601, 603 

— quarry, .593, 601 
Grantoun village, xiii. Banff, 138 
Grantoun \illagc,xiv. Inverness, 439, 440 
(ivaas loch, xiii Elgin, 196 
Gray house, &c. xi Forfer, 576, 577 
Grayhill, cairns on, xii. Aberdeen, 417 
Gray's hospital, xiii. Elgin, 115 
Greannoch loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 179, 

291 
Great cave of Gigha, vii Argjle, 395 
Great glen of Albin, xiv. Inverness, 1,41, 

381,504,524 
Great Dirrington law, ii. Berwick, 94 
Great llclvel hill, xiv. Inverness, 323 
GreatlawH, coins found at, iii. Peebles, 101 
Greatmoor hill, iii. Roxburgh, 441 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Ixix 



Cireat Skerry rock, xiii. Elgin, 147 
Grent Sourby church, iv. Wigton, 27 
Orceu cairn of Bcllie, xiii. El^n, 119 
( ireen cairn of Fettercaim, xl Kincardine, 

115 
Green ca«tle, xiii. Banff, 254 
Green castle, ii. Haddington, 96 
Green castle, xi. Kincardine, 73, 79, 85 
Green hill, xi. Forfar, 597 
Green hoiue, z. Perth, 26 
Green isle, xiv. Ross, 184 
Green loch, iv. Wigton, 82 
Green of Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 223 
Green of Mauchlinc, v. Ayr, 161 
Green of Muirtown village, xiv. Inverness, 

30 
Green of Ruthcrglen, vl Lanark, 377 
Greenan castle, v. Ayr, 365 
Grcenan loch, v. Bute, 99 
Grecnbank dye-work, vii. Renfrew, 40— 

property, 521 
Greenbank house, xv. Shetland, 26 
Greencraig hill, ix. Fife, 632, 633— fort 

on, 644 
Greencraig of Drumbroider, viii. Stirling, 

209 
Grcendykes house and property, ii. Had- 
dington, 182, 184, 185 
Greenfield property, v. Ayr, 33 
Greenfield loch, >ii. Renfrew, 385 
Greenfoot village, v. Ayr, 143 
Grcengairs village, vi. Lanark, 246 
Greenhall, remains at, vi. Lanark, 321 
Greenhill, xii. Aberdeen, 526 
Greenhill, ironstone at, v. Ayr, 106 
Greenhill, the, xiii. Banff, 64 
Greenhill village, iv. Dumfries, 387 
Greenhill colliery, vi. Lanark, 644 
Greenhill house, iii. Roxburgh, 195, 198 
Greenknow tower, ii. Berwick, 34 
( ireenknowc of Culter, vi. Lanark, 346 
Greenland hill, xv. Caithness, 39 
(ireenlees moss, iii. Roxburgh, 148— ^;oal 

at, 149 
Greenlaw hill, xii. Aberdeen, 748 
Greenlaw parish, ii. Berwick, 40— moor, 

64— town, 40, 44, 46 
Greenlaw, prisoners* depot at, i. Edin- 
burgh, 317 
Greenlaw house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 197 
Greenlaw house, vii. Renfrew, 198 
Greenmill village, iv. Dumfries, 356 
Greenock parish and town, vii. Renfrew, 

405— bank, 409— house, 412, 425— 

water, v. Ayr, 130, 149 
tireenridgc collier}', ii. Linlithgow, 77 
Cireenriver plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 213 
Greenside church, L Edinburgh, 665 — 

hospital, 658 
Greenskams propertv, xiii. Banff, 284, 

287, 288 
Greenstone point, xiv. Ross, 92 
Greentable hill, xv. Sutherland, 194 
Greenwell {>l>eli8k, xv. Shetland, 39 
Greenyard bum, xiv. Ross, 74, 91 — iBle,74 



Greenyards collieries, viii. Stirling, 310,331 
Greeto bum, v. Ayr, 789 
Greggary rock, iv.' Wigton, 131 
Gregory castle, xi. Forfiir, 490 
Gregory's well, xiL Aberdeen, 753 
Greg's cairn, xi. Forfar, 546 
Oreim hill, xv. Caithness, 13 
Gremista house, xv. Shetland, 3 
Grennan hill, iv. Wigton, 201 — bay, i6. 
Qress district, xiv. Iloss, 1 15 — house, 116 

— water, 120— caim at, 126 
Gretna green, iv. Dumfries, 273 — village, 

269 
Grey caim, iv. Kirkcudbright, 132 
Grey caim of Cromarty, xiv. R<Jto, 7 
Grey head, xv. Caithness, 22 
Greyfriars' churches, Edinburgh, i. Edin- 
burgh,' 662 — monastery, 656 
Greyfriars' monastery, Ayr, ?. Ayr, 37 
GreyfHars' monaster}', Dumfries, iv. Dum- 
fries, 5 
Greyfriars' monastery, Elgin, xiiL Elgin, 7 
Grey friars' monastery, Glasgow, vi. La» 

nark, 107 
Greyfriars' monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 65 
Grev friars' monastery, St Andrews, ix. 

Fife, 468 
Greyfriars' monastery, Stirb'ng, viii. Stir- 
ling, 423 
Grey Hope bay, xi. Kincardine, 198 
Grey mare's tail, Closeburn, iv. Dumfries, 

78 
Grey mare's tail, Moffat, iv. Dumfries, 107 
Grey stane, the, iv. Dumfries, 466 
Grey's hospital, xiii. Elgin, 10, 23 
Grevstonlecs property and house, ii. Ber- 

w'ick, 132, 138 
Griam hill^ xv. Sutherland, 135, 137, 213 

—loch, 216 
Gribton house and property, iv. Dumfries, 

560, 562 
Gribum cave, vii. Argyle, 299 
Grice ness, xv. Orkney, 157 
Grieff, see Grvfe 
Grieshemish house, xiv. Invemes8,341-» 

loch, 323, 325— plantations, 329 
Grieston quarry, iii. Peebles, 27 
Grim ness, xv. Orkney 191 
(irimbister isle, xv. Orkney, 67 
Grime's dike, see Graham 
Grimct, improvements at, v. Ayr, 341 
Grimisay isle, xiv. Invemess, 164 
Grimshadir loch, xiv. Ross, 159 
Grimtsta bum, xiv. Ross, 152 
Gritmoor hill, iii. Roxburgh, 427 
Grog loch, vi. Lanark, 400 
Grougar, ironstone at, v. Ayr, 536 
Grove house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 270 
Gmbit hill, iii. Roxburgh 448 
(imcnla, tradition regarding, x v. Orkney ,8 1 
Grugaig water, xiv. Ross, 437 
Gminard loch, vii. Arg\'le, 645 
Crruinard bum, xiv. Ross, 74, 91 — isle, 74 
Gruting chapel, &c. xv. Shetland, 25, 110 
— voe, 23, 100 



Ixx 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Gryfe factory, vii. Renfrew, 51 — ^river, 2, 

46, 57^ 114, 115, 354, 355, 857, 537 
Gryfe grove &ctory, vii. Renfrew, 51 
Guallan hill, viii. Stirling, 100 
Gualin hUl, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Guard bridge, ix. Fife, 478 
Guard hill, iv. Dumfries, 53 
Guidie bum, x. Perth, 1096, 1248— town, 

1100 
Guiltree hill and camps, v. Ayr, 492, 496 
Guisachan bum, viL Argyle, 479 
Guiaachan house, xiv. Inverness, 485 
Guishadir village, xiv. Ross, 136 
Gulane hill, il Haddington, 205, 358* 
links,' 204— property, 207 — village, 
203, 216 
Gulberwick, suppressed parish of, xv. 

Shetland, 59— chapels, 3 
Gulbin water, xiv. Inverness, 505 
Gull's castle, xiii. Elgin, 149 
Gumscleugh hill, iii. Peebles, 38 
Gun rig, the, xiii. Banff, 389 
Gunista, burial-ground at, x v. Shetland, 1 2 
Gunistcr voe and isle, xv. Shetland, 71 
Gunna isle, vii. Argyle, 198 
Gunnie colliery, vi. Lanark, 644 
Gunsgreen distillery, iL Berwick, 141, 

331— house, 137— point, 319 
Gurtary colliery, viii. Clackmannan, 124 
Guthrie parish, xi. Forfer, 469— castle, 

470, 471— hill, 469 
Guthrie port of Arbroath, xL Forfrtf, 512 
Guy Mannering, scene o^ iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 315 
Guy^ well, vi. Lanark, 566 
Guynd, den of, xl Forfar, 352, 358— 

house, 358 
Gyle farm, i. Edinburgh, 542 
Gylen castle, vii. Argyle, 526 
Gynag loch and water, xiv. Inverness, 65 
Gyran hill, xv. Orkney, 42 
Ha^ burn and hillock, xiii Banff, 68 
Ha' bum of Walston, vl Lanark, 848, 852 
Ha' hill of Alvuh, xiii Banff, 162 
Ha' hill of Cariuke, vi. Lanark, 582 
Ha' house, Lcadhills, vi. Lanark, 334 
Ha' mill of Hamilton, vi. Lanark, 283 
Haafgrunie isle, xv. Shetland, 38 
Haaton house, xii. Aberdeen, 1091 
Habbie^'s how, I Edinburgh, 31 
Hiibbic's how, Eckford, iiL Roxburgh, 228 
Habchester camp, ii. Berwick, 1 34, 338 
Habrahelia cave, xv. Orkney, 117 
Hackwood bum, vi. Lanark, 810 
Hadden limestone, ii. Berwick, 52 
Haddenrig hill, iii. Roxburgh, 235 — bat- 
tle, 236 
Haddenstank, tradition regarding, iii. Rox- 

bui^h, 236 
Haddington parish and town, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 1 
Haddingtonshire, observations on, ii. Had- 
dington, 357 
lladdo house, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 60 j , 906, 
963, 967— lochs, 964 



Haer cairns, x. Perth, 913, 1004 
Haer Faads camp, &c xL For&r, 236, 694 
Hallon house, vii Argyle, 610 
Hagenhope bum, iii. Peebles, 1 35 
Haghouses of Loudoun, v. Ayr, 837 
Ilaggmill quarry, vL Lanark, 648 
llaggmuir, the, vi. Lanark, 636 
Haggs, lands of, vi. Lanark, 66B«-caatle, 

691 
Haggs moor quarry, ii. Haddington, 262 
Hags church, viii. Stirling, 12*2« — village, 

tb. 132 
Hailes castle, ii. Haddington, 21 
Hailes house, Inveresk, i. Edinburgh, 283 . 
Hailes church, L Edinburgh, 126 — ^house, 

127— quarr)', 124— viUage, 121 
Hailstone bum, viii. Stirling, 144 
Haining house, &c. iii. Selkirk, 25 
Haining castle, >'iii. Stirling, 21 1 — quarrv, 

208 
Hainuck well, xiv. Ross, 382 
Hair cairn, xi. Forfiir, 486 
Hairlaw, battle of, viL Renfrew, 307 — 

loch, 316 
Hairlaw limeworks, iL Haddington, 176 — 

property, 181 
Hairlees colliery, vi Lanark, 723 
Hairst loan, vii Renfrew, 4 
Halbcath colUery, ix. Fife, 835, 837— 

village, 874 
Halbury castle, xv. Sutherland, 141 
Half Davoch mill, xiii. Elgin, 191 
Haliedcan deer park, iii. Roxburgh, 38 
Halimidel quarry, v. Bute, 10 
Halket loch, v. Ayr, 290 
Halkerston tower, i. Edinburgh, 175 
Halkerton house, xi Kincardine, 1 31, 1 38 

— wood, 25 
Halkirk parish, xv. Caithness, 68 — water, 

69— viUage, 78, 82 
Hall limeworks, vi. Lanark, 882 
Halladale mission, xv. Caithness, 79 — 

river, 15— strath, 12, 13, 17, 19 
Halll)ar colliery, vi Lanark, 568— spring 

at, 566— tower, 581 
Hallcraig bridge, vi. Lanark, 573 
Hallcraig hill, i. Edinburgh, 436 
llalleaths house and woods, iv. Dumfries, 

379, 383 
Hallerhirst limeworks, v. Ayr, 438 
Hall Forest castle, xii. Aberdeen, 658 
Hallgreen castle, xi. Kincardine, 7 — 

farm, 21 
Hallgreen priory and tower, iv. Dumfries, 

490 
Hallguards castle, iv. Dumfries, 292 
Hallhend house, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 1113, 

1123 
Hallhill, coal at, vii. Renfrew, 82, 83, 101 
Halihill house and castle, vi Lanark, 295, 

296 
Halliday hills, iv. Dumfries, 462 
Hall Manner, camp at, iii Peebles, 1 1 6 
Hallmoadow, embankment at, iv. Dum- 
fries, 529 



OEKEBAL IKDBX. 



lxx.i 



Hallmyre bay, iii. Peebles, 135 
Hallodalo strath, xv. Sutherland, 214— 

river, 215 
Hallrule, improvements At, iii. Roxburgh, 

217— mill, 210 
Hallyards house, ix. Fife, 250 
Hallyards house, iii. Peebles, 114 
Hallyburton house, xi. Forfar, 641, 644 
Halflary mission, xv. Caithness, 79 
Halterbum, camp at, iiL Roxburgh, 1 63 
llultin glen, xiv. Inverness, 286 
Halyhill, X.Perth, 1173 
Haly Kirk, xv. Orkney, 54 
Ham harl>our, &c. xv. Caithness, 39, 46 
Hamer, annexed parish of, iL Haddington, 

29 
Hamils* hill chapel, v. Ayr, 635 
Hamilton parish, vi. Lanark, 249— town, 

251, 283— green and bridge, 285— pa- 

lace and grounds, 269, 271, 278, 957 
Hamilton house, Fala, i. Edinburgh, 535 
Hamilton Farme, property of, vi. Lanark, 

375, 376— colliery, 378— tumulus at, 

383 
Hammers ness, xv. Shetland, 8, 24 — voe, 

71 
Hammersfield, burial place at, xv. Shet- 
land, 25 
Hamna voe, xv. Shetland, 71, 83 
Handa isle, xv. Sutherland^ 120, 132, 218 

— sound, 120 
Handcrick head, xiv. Ross, 74 
Hanged men's trees, x. Perth, 425 
Hanging myre, the, ix. Fife, 923 
Hangingshaw house and wood, iii. Set- 
kirk, 43— law, 30 
Hangman^} brae, vi. Lanark, 120 
Hanley house, i. Edinburgh, 214 
Hapland bum, iv. Dumfries, 323 
Harbour craig, iii. Peebles, 157 
Harbum house, I Edinburgh, 306 
Hardacres bog, ii. Berwick, 54 — ^hill and 

camp, 56 
Harden house, iii. Roxbuigh, 90, 91 — 
â–  water, 442 
Hardgate factory, viiL Dunbarton« 25 — 

village, 29 
Hardhili collieries, ii. Linlithgow, 1 54 
Hardhill property, v. Ayr, 836 
Hardie'S hill, ii. Berwick, 176 
Hardington house, vL Lanark, 94, 817 
Hardmuir, the, xiii. Elgin, 216 
Hare craig, xi. Forfar, 6 
Hare well, iii. Roxburgh, 1 05 
Harecaims limeworks, vi. Lanark, 850 
Harelaw moor, camp, &c. at, ii. Berwick, 

65, 72 
Harelaw limeworks, iv. Dumfries, 486 — 

tower, 489 
Harelaw moor, i. Edinburgh, 543— cairn 

at, 547 
Harelaw cairn, vi. Lanark, 891 
Harelaw craigs, remains at, vii. Renfi«w, 

197 
Harelaw, remains at, viil Stirling, 210 



Hares den, xi. Kincardine, 155 
Harestancs loch, limeworks, &c. vi. La- 
nark, 569, 573 
Harestancs, remains at, iii. Peebles, 129, 

Roxbuigh, 244 
Harestonc bum, iii. Peebles, 59— planta- 
tions, 62 
Harifs or Heriot*s dyke, il Berwick, 43, 

72 
Harker rocks, the, ii. Berwick, 131, 319 
Harlamuir colliery, iii Peebles, 155 
Harlan house, xv. Caithness, 142 
Harland, remains at, xv. Caithness, 138 
Ilarlaw, battle of, xii. Aberdeen, 566, 569 
Harlaw limeworks, ii. Berwick, 53 
Harold's tower, xv. Caithness, 4 
Harold swick bay, xv. Shetland, 38 — 

burial ground, 40 
Harpercroft, camps at, v. Ayr, 678 
Harrav, annexed parish of, xv. Orkney, 

148', 154 
Harris parish, xiv. Invernen, 155 — 

sound, ib. 159 
Harrow loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 110 
Hart bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 5 
Hartfell hills, iii. Peebles, 56, iv. Dum- 
fries, 102, 103— spa, 106 
Hartficld house, zv. Caithness, 114 
Hartfield, improvements at, &c. vii. Ren- 

firew, 317,319 
Harthiil castle, xii. Aberdeen, 638 
Harthill tillage, vi. Lanark, 631 
Harthope, iv. Dumfries, 102 
Hartrec house, vi- Lanark, 342, 344 
Harts haug|i,iii. RoxburglL, 210 
Hart's leap, iii Selkirk, 44 
Hartshaw tower, viiL Clackmannan, 126 
Hartside district, vi. Lanark, 805<^bum 

806, 810 
Hartwood house, L Edinburgh, 306 
Harvieston house, viii. Clackmannan, 68, 

70,71,72 
Har\'ie8ton house, i. Edinburgh, 173, 179 
Harwood house, i. Edinburgh, 306 
Hasscndcan house, iiL Roxbiurgh, 356— 
suppressed parish of, 353^-propertv, 
367— tower, 356, 370 
Hasseussay isle, xv. Shetland, 82 
Hassington, remains at, ii. Berwick, 58 
Hatherstane law, vi. Lanark, 806 
Hatteraick^ cave, iv. Kirkcudbright, 315 
Hatton castle, xii. Aberdeen, 994 
Hatton house and propertv, i. Edinbuigh, 

82,92 
Hatton castle, xi. Forfar, 559 — hill, 558 
Hatton house, xi. Kincardine, 302 — 

quarry, 299 
Hattonbum distillery, ix. Kinross, 69 
Hattonden Victories, xi. For&r, 407 
Hattonmill, coins found at, xi. Forfar, 398 
Haugh village, â–¼. Ayr, 162, 164 
Haugh bleachfield and fiictory, ix. Fife, 

675, 676 
Haugh of Finhaven, xi. Forfiy, 292 
Haugh of Kinnell fitctory, xl For&r, 407 



Ixxii 



GEVE&AL UTDEX. 



Haugh colliery, vii Renfrew, 158 
llaugliheod of Hawick, iii Roxburgh, 379 
Haugh head houne, &c. iiL Roxbur^, 223, 

226 
Haughhead village, viii. Stirling, 258 
Haughn of Benholme bav, xl Kincardine, 

52 
Uaughs of Cromdalc, battle of, xir. In- 

vcniew, 434 
Haughit of Kilmaichlic, xiii. Banff, 133 
Haughton house, xiL Aberdeen, 497, 500 
Haulkcrton house, xi. Kincardine, 131, 

138 
Hauster bum, xv. Caithness, 123 
Hawick parish, iii. Roxburgh, 379 — 

tfiwn, 80, 81, 387, 396, 404, 406 
Hawk hill, ii. Haddington, 284 
Hawkhead colliery, &c. vii. Renfrew, 152, 

153, 157— house, 194 
Hawkhill school, xi. Forfar, 45 
Hawkhill of Lunan, xL Forfar, 325 
Hawkhill of Stevenson, v. Ayr, 455 
Hawk law, cairn on, xii. Al>erdeen, 622 
Hawkley muir village, ix. Fife, 135, 139 
Hawkshaw tower and wood, iii. Peebles, 

61, 63 
Hawkslaw quarry, ii. Berwick, 202 
Hawkstone village, x. Pertli, 633 
Hawkwood hills, vL Ijanark, 301 
Ilawthomdcn castle, house, &.c. I Edin- 
burgh, 330, 331 
Hawtroe, camp at, i. Edinbuigh, 416 
Haxtilgate, the, iii. Roxburgh, 61 
Hayland loch, xv. Caithness, 36 
Iljiylie house, pn)i>erty, &c v. Ayr, 792, 

800 
Hayiic castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 54 
Hayocks house, v. Ayr, 451 
HavHton hill, remains on, xi. Forfar, 346 
HayHtone plantations, iiL Peebles, 13— 

bum, 2 
Hazeldean moss, vi. Liinark, 470 
Hazelhead house, xii. Aberdeen, 238 
Ha/elhead castle, v. Ayr, 572, 576 — 

limcworks, 573 
Hazzlebcrry, lead ore at, iv. Dumfries, 

196 
Hazzlcilen (juarry, ix. Fife, 305 
Heacamhall hill, xiv. Inverness, 182 
Hcficle hill, xiv. Inverness, 182 
Head of Side, vii. Renfrew, 517 
Headlesscross, ironstone at, vi. Lanark, 

610 
Hemls house, vi. Lanark, 296 — village, 

299 
Heads of Ayr hills, v. Ayr, 2, 351 
Heads of Kduv, xv. Orkacv, 121 
Ileadshnw loch, iii. Roxburgh, 269 
Heart's hill, viii. Stirling, 325 
Heathcot house, xi. Kincardine, 191 
Heather hope, iii. Roxburgh, 191 
Heatherlands, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 1 97 
Hcatherwick house, ii. Haddington, 80 
Heathery hillock, church at, xiii. Banff, 
97 



Heathet, sprii^ at, iv. Dumfries, 485 
HeathHeld, improvements at, vii. Ren* 

frew, 101 
Heaven aqua well, iiL Peebles, 156 
Hecla hill, xiv. Inverness, 182 
Heclaber rock, xv. Orkney, 87 
Heck, reUc found at, iv. Dumfries, SB6— 

village, 387 
Hedderwick house, iL Haddington, 80 
Hedderwick quarry, xi For&r, 273 
Hee mount, xv. Sutherland, 214 
Heeds house, remains at, iiL Roxburgh, 

444 
Helenas castle, v. Ayr, 315 
Helensburgh town, viii Dunborton, 71, 

76, 79 
Helenton, moat hill at, v. Ajrr, 566 
Hellisay isle, xiv. Inverness, 200 
Hell lum, a cave, xiL Aberdeen, 589, 

xiii. Banff, 274 
HeUmoor loch, iii. Roxburgfay 88, Sel- 
kirk, 36 
Heirs cleugh hill, iiL Peebles, 127 
Helmsdale castle, xv. Sutherland, 200 — 
church, 209— river, 134, 135, 137, 193, 
195, 204— strath, 134, 135 — village, 
134, 158, 192,202,204,208 
Helshetter, spring at, xv. Caithness, 14 
Helvcl hills, xiv. Inverness, 323 
Hempriggs burgh and stachs, xv. Caith- 
ness, 118— house, 142— loch, 123 
Henderland chapel, &c. iii. Peebles, 167, 

168 
Hcndersyde park, iii. Roxburgh, 421 
Henlawshiel, iii. Roxburgh, 377 
llenmuir coUierj-, ii. Haddington, 175 
Henriettatown village, xiv. Ross, 392 
Henry's Knoll, xiv. Inverness, 469 
Hen wood, the, iii. Roxburgh, 261 
Henzie hunt, xv. Orkney, 141 
Heogaland isle, xv. Shetland, 38 
Heogs heads, xv. Shetland, 37 
Herbertshire house and property, viii. 
Stirling, 116, 117, 381— papermUls, 
123, 127— printworks, 384— viUaire, 
115,385 
Herdmanston house and church, ii. H al- 
dington, 115 
Herdsman rock, vii. Argyle, 352 
Heriot parish, i. Edinburgh, 198— house, 

202— water, 198, 199, 403 
Heriot 's hospital, L Edinburgh, 721 — 

schools, 685 
Heriottown hill, remains on, i. EdinburKh, 

202 
Herlaw cairn, vL Lanark, 891 
Hermand house, i. Edinburgh, 306 
Hermiston, remains at, i. Edinburgh, 547 
Hermitage bum, x. Perth, 1006 
Hermitage castle and church, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 443— hill, 441— water, 441, 461 
Hermyres, limestone at, vi. Lanark, 882 
Herric strath, xiv. Inverness, 52, 58 
Herring voe, xv. Shetland, 100 
Herring yair, vii. Renfrew, 8 



QBKB&AL IHDBX. 



Ixxiii 



Hennm neit, xt. Caithneii, 36 
Herriot^ djke, il Berwick, 43, 72 
Heraton qiuury, xt. Orkney, 191 
Hertons hiU cairn, iiL S^Udrk, 47 
Heston isle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 356 
Heuch of Cou>, x. Perth, 285 
Heugh of Tranent, ii. Haddington, 283 
Heughhead village, xii. Aberdeen, 553 
Heughhead tower, ii Berwick, 285 
Heiighmill, the, v. Ajr, 766 
Heugbs of Kilmany, ix. Fife, 549 
Hevera isle, xv. Shetland, 9 
Heynish bay, vii. Argyle, 197 
Hier well, iiL Roxbiugh, 105 
Hieton village, iii Roxburgh, 132, 133 
Higham farm, xi. For&r, li23 
High Auchenlodmont, coal at, viL Ren- 
frew, 153 
Highauchaane, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 44 
High bridge, xiv. InvemeeB, 504 
Highchesters, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 90 
High craig quarry, vii. Renfrew, 155 
High cross knoll, vL Lanarlc, 256 
High church parish. Paisley, vii Renfrew, 

226, 238 
Highfield house, xiv. Ross, 401 
Highfleld quarries, v. Ayr, 220, 232 
Highlanders* academy, vii Renfivw, 465 
Highlandman'b hammerrock, xv. Orkney, 

122, 127 
Highlaws hill and quarry, ii Berwick, 320 
Highmoor well, iv. Dimifries, 276 
High PriesthiU &nn, v. Ayr, 148 
High school of Stirling, viii Stirling, 441 
Hightae flow, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 

—loch, Dumfries, 379— village, 387 
Highton water, iii Peebles, 79 
High work lead mine, vi Lanark, 336 
Hilderstonhill colliery, ii. Linlithgow, 37 
Hill property, v. Bute, 74 
Hill house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 335 
HiU of Angel^ vii Argyle, 337 
Hill of Beith moathilU v. Ayr, 579 
HiU of KeiUor village, xi For&r, 559, 562 
HiU of Rattray, x. Perth, 241 
Hill of Torbolton, v. Ayr, 741, 746, 747 
Hill dike of Evie, xv. Orkney, 196 
Hillend vilhige, ix. Fife, 188, 242, 244 
Hillend of Muiravonside, viii Stirling, 207 
Hillend of Pitcon colUery, v. Ayr, 232 
Hillfort of DoUar, viii Clackmanman, 76 
HilUiead house, x. Perth, 676 
Hillhead of Bervie &rm, xiKincardine,2I 
Hillhead of Carluke ironstone pits, Ac. 

vi Lanark, 5G9, 571 
Hillhead of Cockpen, soil at, i Edinburgh, 

606— house, 608 
HiUhead of Kilbride limewerks, vi La- 
nark, 882 
HUlhead of Monntbleary, xiii Banff, 148 
HiUhead of Penpont quarry, iv. Dum- 
fries, 501 
Hillhead of Pettie, tumulus at, xiv. Invei^ 
ncss,292 

VOL. XV. 



Hillhead of Stranraer village, iv. Wigton, 

95, 126 
Hillhouse house and property, v. Ayr, 

673, 677 
HiUhouse house, i Edinburgh, 442 
Hillhouse hill, vi. Lanark, 807 
Hillhouse quarry, ii Linlithgow, 1 79 
Hilliclay common, xv. Caithness, 60 
HiUs castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 288 
Hillside house, Aberdour, ix. Fife, 718 
HiUside house, Saline, ix. Fife, 709 
HiUslop tower, iii Roxbuigh, 58 
Hillswick voe and ness, xv. Shetland, 71 
Hilton, annexed parish o!^ ii Berwick, 166 
Hilton, Auchtergaven, quarry, x. Perth, 

428 
Hilton, Contin, spring at, xiv. Ross, 236 
Hilton, Cupar, house, ix. Fife, 8 
Hilton, Dundee, school at, xi Forfisur, 45 
Hilton, Feam, lawhUl, xi Forfiu-, 314 
Hilton, Feam, vilhige, xiv. Roes, 860 
Hilton, Fodderty, remains at, xiv. Ross, 

252, 253 
Hilton, Nigg, stone at, xiv. Ross, 28 
Hilton, Old Machar, house, xii. Aberdeen, 

1076 
Hilton, Turriff,spring at, xii Aberdeen, 983 
HindigEurth head, xv. Shethind, 83 
HinistU glen, xiv. Inverness, 286 
Hirsel house, ii Berwick, 208— law, 202 

— l^ch, 200 
Hirst colliery, viii Dunbarton, 136 
Hirst hill, li LinUthgow, 76 
Hirst tower, iv. Dumfries, 266 
Hislop, coins found at, iii Roxbui^ 394 
Hoan isle, xv, Sutherland, 86 
Hoardweel, copper ore at, ii Berwick, 117 
Hol^bUn hall, ii Haddington, 157 
Hobkirk or Hopekirk pimsh, iii Rox- 
burgh, 208 
Hoddam parish, iv. Dumfries, 289— castle, 

250 
Hodges colliery, ii Haddington, 176-« 

plantations, 177 
Hogganfield loch, vi. Lanark, 104, 206 
Hoghmcie, fort at, xiv. Inverness, 188 
Hogs hole, remains found at, xi Kincar- 
dine, 155, 161 
Holbum Street, Aberdeen, quoad sacra 

parish of, xii Aberdeen, 1077 
Holbum head, xv. Caithness, 1 
Hole, Eaglesham,rocksat, vii RenfVew, 387 
Hole, Kirkintilloch, spinning mills at, viii 

Dunbarton, 199 
Hole of Row, XV. Oriuiey, 42, 173 
Holehouse hill, iv. Dumfries, 67 
Holekettle Bumside, village, ix. Fife, 106, 

109 
Holemerry, vi Lanark, 503 
Holemill loch, xi For&r, ^49 
Holeton, unis found at, ix. Kinross, 60 
Holhouse limeworks, iv. Dumfries, 487 
Holland Hirst collieries, viii. Dunbarton, 

175, 176, 179 

k 



Ixxiv 



OSHERAL IITDBX. 



liolIandA )jay, xf. Orkney, 157 
Ilollock wHter, viii. Stirling, 206 
Hoilowood hili^ viL Renfrew, 98, 104 
floIlowH burn, iii. Peebles, 82 
IloUoim Uiwer, && i?. Dumfriet, 487,489 
Holly mount, iv. Dumfries, 452 
Hollybush houite, v. Ayr, 275, 278 
II oily lee house, iii. Peebles, 27, 30 
Holm, remains at, â–¼. Ayr, 194 
Holm, improvement of, iv. Ihimfiiet, 816 

— Druidical temple, 559 
Holm bum, xlv. Invemets, 4 — house and 

property, 452, 455 
Holm island and point, xiv. Ross, 118— 

village, 136 
Holm of Noss, xv. Shetland, 8 
Holmains hills, iv. Dumfries, 371— tower, 

373 
Holme sound, xv. Orkney, 16, 204, 225 
Holme and Paplay, united parishes ot, 

XV. Orkney, 204, 218 
Holms, limestone at, vi Lanark, 402 
Holms water, iii. Peebles, 79 
Holton square village, viii. Clackmannan, 

44 
Holy loch, vii. Argyle, 571, 602 
Holy isle, v. Bute, 4, 10, 24 
Holy mound, i. Edinburgh, 657 
Holy linn, iv. Kirkcudbright, 99 
Holy dean castle, iii. Roxburgh, 36 
Holy Manhead cave, xiiL Elgin, 149 
Holyrood abbey, i. Edinburgh, 660— pa- 
lace and chapel, 653 
Holy wood chapel, xiii. Banff, 29 
Holytown railway, vi. Lanark, 766 — vil- 
lage, 7J)3, 797 
Holy wood parish, iv. Dumfries, 553 — 

abl)cy, 558 — village, 563 
Homeby re, remains found at, v. Ayr, 194 
Hone stone, the, xv. Caithness, 1 15 
H(M)d'8 hill, V. Ayr, 748 
H<M)k bum,iv. Dumfries, 174 — ^house, 184 
llookbridge, trees at, iv. Dumfries, 175 
Hope, 1^11, XV. Sutherland, 83, 165, 170 

—loch, 83, 87, 217— water, 87, 216 
Hof)ekirk or Hobkirk parish, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 208 
Ho]>cman, village of, xiii. Elgin, 38, 40 
Hope park chapel, L Edinburgh, 665 
Hopes house, &c. il Haddington, 96 
Hopesrigg house, iv. Dumfries, 431 
Hope Temple museum, vii. Renfrew, 294 
Hopeton house and grounds, ii. Linlitli- 

gow, 20, 21, 22, 27 
Hop Pringle castle, i. Edinburgh, 417 
Hoprig property, ii. Haddington, 177, 181 
Horn, mount, xv. Sutherland, 24, 149, 

150— loch, 25 
Homcliffe village, ii. Berwick, 1 62 
Homdene, ancient parish of, ii. Bcft-wick, 

180— village, 183 
Horse isle, v. Ayr, 192 
Horse iale, xiv. Inverness, 145 
Horschopshank tower, iiL Peebles, 116 
Horslcy hill tower, iii. Roxburgh, 370 



Hotecoat house, &e, m. Roxboigb, 90, 9i 
Hoselaw chapel, iii. Rozbui]^, 152 — hill, 

145— loch, 148— Tillage, 153 
Hospital quarry, xiiL El^n, 98 
Hospitalfield house, zL For&r, 498 
Hospitalmill quarry, ix. Vife, 559— apin- 

ning miUs, 573 — village, 574 
Houff burial place, xL Kincardme, 252 
Houff of Liunphanan, xii. Aberdeen, 1091 
Houg-jrhary bay, xir. InTemess, 161 
Hounam parish, iiL Roxburgh 188— • 
camp, 197— law,189— viUa^ 188,198, 
203 
Houndhill, camp on, iiL Peebles, 116 
Houndwood tower, iL Berwick, 285 
Hounslow quarry, iL Berwick, 66— village, 

83 
Houm loch, xiv. [nvemeas, 129, 525 
House isle, xv. Shetland, 8 
House of Clyne, remains at, xIt. Rom, 

321 
House of Refrige, Glasgow, vL Lanark, 

217 
Housebay, burial ground at, xv. Orkney, 

159 
Househill house, xiiL Nairn, 2 
Househill house, viL Renfrew, 150, 198 

— colliery, 157 
Houston and Killallany united parishes 

of, viL Renfrew, 46 
Houston colliery, iL Linlithgow, 88 <— 

house, 86, 87 
Houston head, xv. Orkney, 13 — cave, 14 

— isle, 15 
Houston bleachfield, &.c. viL Renfrew, 52 

— plantations, 47 — village, 53 
Hova head, xv. Shetland, 8 
How house, xv. Orkney, 80 
How muir, v. Avr, 352 
How of Alford, xii. Aberdeen, 486, 611 
How of Annandale, iv. Dumfiries, 451 
How of Applegarth, iv. Dumfries, 172 
How of Corrichie, battle of, xL Kincar- 
dine, 338 
How of Garioch, xiL Aberdeen, 748 
How of Oarvoch, xL Kincardine, 23 
Howof Habrahelia cave, xv. Orkney, 117 
How of the Meams, xL Kincardine, 23, 

68, 129, 298 
How of Moray, xiiL Elgin, 2 
Howdean, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 1 1— 

moor, ruins at, 4, 13 
Howgate village, L Edinburgh, 45 
Ilowgate mouth lead mine, vL Lanark, 

519 
Howler's hill village, vL Lanark, 431 
Howlet bum limeworks, v. Ayr, 835 
Howliston tower, &c L Edinburgh, 417 
Ilownam mains, camp on, iiL Roxburgh, 

197 
Howquhay head, xv. Orkney, 204 
Howrat limeworks, v. Ayr, 232, 804 
Howwood limeworks, vii. Renfirew, 83 
Hoy head, hill, &c. xv. Orkney, 26, 27, 
49, 206— isle, 70— sound, 27 



OENEBAL INDEX. 



Ixxv 



Hoy and Graemsay, united parishes of, 

XV. Orkney, 40 
Hoxa quarry, xr. Orkney, 191 
Hubie, remains at, xy. Shetland, 25 
Huggenfield, limestone at, yiii. Dunbar- 

ton, 181 
Hugh's castle, xi?. Inverness, 258 
Hugh^i fair, xiv. Ross, 26 
Huille moss, ii. Berwick, 41 
Iluip isles and ness, xv. Orkney, 157 
Hullerhirst house, v. Ayr, 451 
Humbie quarry, i Edinburgh, 144, ii. 

Linlithgow, 91 
Humbie parish, ii. Haddington, 100 — 

bum, 101, 106 
Humble Bumble, the, x. Perth, 1172 
Hume, annexed parish of, iii. Roxbuigh, 

456— castle, 457 
Hume's vault, ii. Berwick, 2S2 
Huna bay, xv. Caithness, 22 — ^isle, Ork- 
ney, 72, Shetland, 38 — post-office, 
C^thness, 31 
Hunda isle, xv. Orkney, 191 
Hundalee mill, rocks at, iii. Roxburgh, 3 

^tower, 11 — caves, 12 — house, 14 
Ilunish point, xiv. Inverness, 221, 240 
Hunt hill, xiii. Elgin, 60 
Hunterian museum, vi. Lanark, 175 
Hunter's bog, i. Edinburgh, 619 — craig, 

592 
Hunter's hill, plantations at, xi Kincar- 
dine, 69 
Huntcrston property, &c. â–¼. Ayr, 249, 

256 — remains found at, 258 
Huntfield house, &c. vi Lanark, 43, 45 
Hunthill house, iii. Roxburgh, 3, 14 — 

tower, 1 1 
Hunthill village, vi. Lanark, 321 
Huntington house, ii Haddington, 6 
Huntingtower castle, x. Perth, 1030, 
1 031— bleachfield, 1 032, 1034— village, 
1036 
Huntlaw collieries, ii. Haddington, 347 
Huntly parish, xii. Aberdeen, 1036— 
castle and town, 1037 — Agricultural 
Association, 1040 
Huntly castle, x. Perth, 409 
Huntly village, ii. Berwick, 34 
Huntly cot lulls, i Edinburgh, 49 
Hurkledale, coins found at, iv. Dumfries, 

249 
Hurlct alum works, vi. Lanark, 166, viii 
Stirling, 171, vii Renfrew, 149, 154, 
158 — collieries, Umeworks, &c 150, 
152, 153, 157— village, 137, 200^249 
Hurlford village, v. Ayr, 249 
Hurly Ilaaky hill, viii. Stirling, 403 
Hurly Hawkin castle, xi. Forfar, 580 
Husker isle and anchorage, xiv. Inverness, 

162, 163 
Hutcheson's hospital, vi Lanark, 684 
Hutchesontown, manufactures of, vi. La- 
nark, 696 
Hutig, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 165, 170 
Hutton parish, ii Berwick, 150 — Agri- 



cultural Anociation, 160 — ^hall, 151, 
153— village, 154, 161 

Hutton hills, iv. Dumfries, 170 

Hutton and Corrie, united parishes of, iv. 
Dumfries, 537 

Hynd castle, xi Forfar, 486 

Hyndfbrd bridge, vi Lanark, 4 — village, 
24 

Hyndlee farm, iii Roxburgh, 99 

Hyndshaw, coal at,vi Lanark, 567'-pro- 
perty, 579 

Hyndshieland, remains found at, vi. La- 
nark, 854 

I, isle and sound of, Wi Arg\'lc, 297 

lasgair isle, xiv. Inverness, 240 

Ibris isle, ii Haddington, 204 

Icolmkill, see lona 

Idoch bum, xii Aberdeen, 763 

Idrigil point, xiv. Inverness, 324 — house, 
325 

Idvies, barony, xi. Forfar, 383 

Hie water, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 

Hleray isle, xiv. Inverness, 163 

Imachar, school at, v. Bute, 66, 67 

Imcrsay isle, vii Arg>'le, 661 

Inailite village, xiv. Ross, 136 

Inaltorie castle, xiii Banff, 67 

Inch house, i. Edinburgh, 11 

Inch isle, ix. Kinross, 3 

Inch loch, xiv. Invemess, 83 

Inch parish, iv. Wigton, 80 

Inch of Forfar, mins of^ xi. For&r, 695 

Inchard loch, xv. Sutherland, 119 — wa- 
ter, 120, 216 

Inchbare village, xi Forfar, 668 

Ittchbelly bridge, &c. viii Dunbarton, 145, 
174 — plantations, Stirling, 145 

Inchberry property, xiii Elgin, 231 

Inchbervie castle, x. Perth, 433 

Inchbrakie Yew, &c. x. Perth, 495, 503 

Inchbravock, annexed parish of, xi. For- 
&r, 245— house, 252— isle, 282 

Inchbreck, viii Dunbarton, 174 

Inchcaileoch isle, viii Stirling, 89, 90 

Inchcolm isle and monastery, ix. Fife, 71 T 

Inchconachan isle, viii Dunbarton, 156^ 

157 
Inchcoultor, improreraents at, xiv. Ross^ 

325 
Inchcruin isle, viii. Dunbarton, 233 
Inchdrewer castle, xiii Banff, 30 — house^ 

&c. 13^226 
Incheffray abbey, x. Perth, 749 
Inches bum, xiv. Invemess, 4 — castle, 

15 — property, 445, 456 — quarries, 44ft 
Inches of Grangemouth, viii Stirling, 26 
Inchfad isle, viii Dunbarton, 233 
Inchfriechlan isle, viii. Dunbarton, 156, 

157 
Inch Galbraith isle, viii Dimbarton, 15^, 

157 
Inch Garvie isle, ii Linlithgow, 1, 101, 

ix. Fife, 231, 240 
Inchinnan parish, vii Renfrew, 113^ 

bridge, 2&, 27— palace, 12a 



Ixxvi 



aSHBEAL IVDSX. 



•i 



Inchkcith isle and Ughthouae, ix. Fife, 

801,819 
Ifichlaw hill, ix. Fife, 426 
Inchlonaig isle, viiL Dunbarton, 156 
Inchmnhone isle, x. Perth, 1097 — loch, 

101)5, 1097— priory, 1105 
Inchmarlo house, &c. xL Kincardine, 825, 

3-26* 
Inchmarnock isle, â–¼. Bute, 96, 104 
Inchmartin, remains at, x. Perth, 885 
Inch Mickcrj isle, L Edinbur]^, 592 
Inchmill spinning mills, xi Forfer, 601 
Inchmoan isle, viiL Dunbarton, 156, 157 
Inchmurren isle, viii. Dunbarton, 156 
Inchriuch hill, xiii. Elgin, 137 
Inchrory marl hank, xiii Banff, 299 
Inchr^'c house, ix. Fife, 52 
Inchtavanach isle, viii. Dunbarton, 157 
Inchtcrif moss, viii. Stirling, 143 
Inchture parish, x. Perth, 825— Tillage, 

836 
Inchtuthil, camp at, x. Perth, 674 
Inch wood bum, viii. Stirling, 139 
Inchv chapel, x. Perth, 1 1 05 
Inchym hill, x. Perth, 609— house, 988 

— ^-illage, 933 
Indaal loch, xiv. Inverness, 317 
Indorb loch, xiv. Inverness, 433 
Ing glen, vii. Arg}ie, 126 
Ingnn hills, ix. Kinross, 38 
Inganufls bav, xv. Orknev, I, 169, 170, 

172 
Inglis green bleachfield, i. Edinburgh, 125 
Inglismaldie bouse, xi Kincardine, 26, 

300, 302— quarry, 299 
Ingliston house, xi. Forfiir, 218— camp 

at, 476 
Inimore cave, viii. Argyle, 300 
Inishail isle, vii Arg)ie, 82— nunnery, 97 
Inishchonnel isle, vii. Argj'le, 373 
Inishdrynich house, vii Argylc, 98 
Inisherrich church, vii Argyle, 373 
Inishkenneth isle, vii Argyle, 297, 300 

— house, 306 
Inistil glen, xiv. Inverness, 286 
Inkcraig spring, ix. Fife, 691 
Inkstack ({uarry, xv. Caithness, 45 
Inaeravon, remains found at, ii Linlith^ 

gow, 123— tower, 129 
Inncrfearan, see Dingwall 
Innergelly woods, ix. Fife, 973, 974 
Inncrkip parish, vii. Renfrew, 525 
Innerleithen parish, iii. Peebles, 24— 

spring and village, 26, 27 
Innermessan moat, iv. Wigton, 86 — 

castle, 87 
Innerpefikn' church, &c. x. Perth, 315, 

3.S1 
Innersand, chrome ore at, xv. Shetlaad, 

103 
Innertig, church at, v. Ayr, 422 
Innerwell jwrt, &c. iv. Wigton, 23 — 

fisherk-, 32 
innerwick parish, ii. Haddington, 233— 

castle, 236, 240— village, 233, 246 



I 



\i 



Iniiaa boose, xiii. Elgiii, 45, 46— i 

at, 46— Tillage, 47 
nnocent^ how, xiii. Elgin* 46 
nnoTBl head, xt. Orkney, 116 
nord loch, xiv. Ininnw, 219 
nsch pariah, xiL A b e id ee n , 747— vil- 
lage, 757 
nsch of Stevenston, â–¼. Ayr, 4S7 
nsh sound, vii. Argrle, 71 
Qshewan house, xi. Forfitf, 300 
nshoch moaa, xiii Nairn, 
nver village, x. Perth, 1010 
nver vilbige, xiv. Roaa^ 282, 292, 294 
nver loch, xr. Sutherland, 108 
nverallan, annexed pariah oC xiv. lBitr« 

nesB, 432 
nveraliochy castle, xii. AbenSeen, 294— 

house, 295 — TiUsige, 295, 296 
nverarity pariah, xL For&r, 234 
nveraiy parish, Tii Aigyle, 1— «asKk,9 

—town, 1, 34 
nveraven pariah, xiii Banfi^ 123 
nveravon towec, iL Unlithgow, 129 
nveraven property, Ti. Lanark, 268 
nverawe house, vii Aigyle, 98, 501 
nverbervie town, xi. Kincardine, 1,1^ 

15— -cross, 7 
nverbervie castle, x. Perth, 433 
nverbrora fiinn, xt. Sutherland, 130 
nverbrothock district, xi. Foifv, 4S9« 

490— church, 515 
nvercanny property, xi Kincardine, 325 
nvercarron district, xi. Kincardine^ 216 
nvercarron house, xiv. Roaa, 419 
nvercauld house, xii Aberdeen, 649. 631 
nverchaolain pariah, viL Arigrle, 108 
nverchaman, trees at, vii. Argyle, 484 
nverchorron, battle o^ xiv. Ross, 407 
nverchastly £mn, xv. Sutherland, 19 
nvereighty house, &c xi Forfw, 218, 

235 
nvereman house, xii Aberdeen, 547 
nvereme house, xiii. Elgin, 167 
nvereshie property, xiv. InvemesB, 87 
nveresk parish, i Edinburgh, 246— til- 
lage, 246, 247, 250 
nvercskandy &nn, xi Forfiir, 66S 
nverfolla obelisk, vii Argj-le, 242 
nvergarry house, xiv. Invemeaa, 511 
nvergordon castle, xiv. Roas, jTjI ncsa 

263— village, 272, 275 
nvcrgowrie, annexed pariah of, xi For- 
far, 568— bay, 576 — bum, 569 — 
church, 581 — house, 578 
nverichny property, xiii Banff, 158 
nveric house, xiv. Invemesa, 1 35 
nverinate bay, xiv. Roes, 172 
nverkeilor paiisb, xi Forfiu-, 239— vil- 
lage, 241 
nvcrkcithing and Rosyth, united parish 

of, ix. Fife, 230 
nvcrkcithing, battle of, ix. Fife, 865— 

town, 236,241,242, 244 
nverkcithny parish, xiii. Banfl^ 211— 
village, 384 • 



QBHBRAL IHDBX. 



Ixxvii 



Invcrkirkig water and fitUa, xt. Suther^ 

land, 106, 108 
nverleven Tillage, ix. Fife, 682 
nverlochy, battle of, xir. iDTerneM, 509 

— castle, 508 

nvermark castle, xi Forfar, 194 
Dvennay house, &c x. Perth, 11 74, 11 75 
nvermoriaton chapel, xiv. Invemen, 49 

— distillery, &c 47 
n?ermoustoD house, xiy. Invemen, 296 ! 
nvcmeil house, vii Aigyle, 262 i 

nvemess parish and town, xiy. Inyemeia, ' 

1 — educational society, 29 i 

nvemess-shire, observations on, xiy. In- 
verness, 524 
nvemettie hill, xii Aberdeen, 345 — pro* 

perty, 361 
nvemochty douse, xiL Aberdeen, 544— 

parish, see Strathdon 
nverquharity braes, xi. Forfar, 159 — 

castle, 171 
nverquiech castle, x. Perth, 1116 
nversnaid cave, viii. Stirling, 94 
nvertiel village, ix. Fife, 81 1— ^uooci «h 

era parish, 815 
nverugie castle, xii. Aberdeen, 195, 353 
nverugie house, xiii. Elgin, 37 
nveruglasB bay, viiL Dunbarton, 9&— 

water, &c 156, 234 
nverurie parish, xii Aberdeen, 677— 

battle, 679— canal, 68, 683— castle, 678 

—town, 677, 683, 684— vale, 677 
nvery property, xL Kincardine, 324 
nweary bum, ix. Fife, 339 
nzievar house, ix. Fife, 799 
ona, isle and qtioad aatra parish of, viL 

Aigyle, 297, 312, 320, 331 
orsa loch, v. Bute, 42 
re isle, xv. Orkney, 85 
rcnan cairn, xiv. Ross, 63 
riith channel, iv. Wigton, 102, 123, 129, 

162 
rishlaw hill, v. Ayr, 787 
mie hill, ix. Fife, 970 
ron isle, v. Bute, 41 
rongath hills, ii. Linlithgow, 55, 121 
rongray parish, iv. Kirkcudbright, 265 
rons hill, xL Forfar, 825 
rvine parish and town, v. Ayr, 61 9 — ^har- 
bour, 683— water, 179, 180, 436, 523, 

535,537,606,619,667,835 
sa isle, xiv. Inverness, 326 
tsbister, remains at, xv. Orkney, 55 
shour loch, xv. Sutherland, 87 
sla water, xiii. Banff, 200, 209, 213, 214, 

388 
sla water, xi. For&r, 413, 421, 423, 687, 

670, 675, 691, x. Perth, 233, 1110, 

1111,1130,1141,1168,1180 
slaad-nave church, vii. Aigyle, 650 
sland Stalker castle, vii. Aigyle, 240 
slay isle, viL Argyle, 644, 659, 668— 

house, 669 
Me of Benleven, viii. Stirling, 100 
Isle of Lochar, iv. Dumfties, 41 



Isle of Whithorn, spring at, iv. Wigton, 

53 — village, 55 
Isleomaay, unprovements at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 320 
lUaw cairn, xiii BanS; 162 
Ivar'b knowe, xv. Orkn^, 139 
Ivy bank house, xiii Nairn, 2 
Jackston hill, xi Kincardine, 270 
Jackton village, vi Lanark, 880, 898 
Janefield house, iv. Kirkcudbii^t, 25 
Janet Caistairs' cave, xiii Banff, 255 
Janetown, dun at, xiv. Ross, 110 
JaneVa brae, aftnp at, iii Peebles, 9 
Jardine haU, iv. Dumfries, 173, 175, 182, 

184 
Jed forest, iii Roxburgh 4, 99— water, 1, 

2, 98, 254, 428 
Jedbuigh parish, iii. Roxbuigh, 1— abbey, 

7, 8— castle, 10, 14— town, 14, 17 
Jellyhands property, xi Kincardine, 260 
Jellyhobn rocks, viii Clackmannan, 23 
Jemimaville, tumulus at, xiv. Roes, 45— 

village, 49 
Jericho village, iv. Dumfries, 40 
Jerviston house, vi Lanark, 784 
Jerviswood property and house, vi Lanark, 

7,12 
Jock^i gill, spring at, vi Laaaric, 566 
John Baptisfb well, xiv. Ross, 22, 246 
John Knox*8 kirk, ii Haddington, 1 94 
John Legg"* well, xiii Banff, 179 
John of Blairbowieli chair, xii Aberdeen, 

582 
John oXJroafh house, xv. Caithness, 26 
John Watson'h hospital, i Edinburgh, 725 
Johnshaven bay, xi Kincardine, 52, 54 — 

village, 60, 61,270 
Johnson'a cave, xv. Orkney, 27 
Johnston lodge, &c xi Kincardine, 26, 

131, 1.33— spring, 130— tower, 27,37 

—trees at, 131 
Johnston loch, vi Lanark, 401 
Johnstone parish, iv. Dumfries, 151 
Johnstone mills bridge, iv. Dumfries, 165 
Johnstone castle, vii Renf)!ew, 198— ^MocKi 

9aera parish, 135 — village, 190, 201, 

249 
Johnstone^ poot vi. Lanark, 810 
Joppa village, v. Ayr, 662 
Joppa village, i Edinburgh, 390, 393 
Jordanhill collieries, vi Lanark, 672 
Jordanhill, vii Renfrew, 2— house, 19 
Jordanlaw, remains at, ii Berwick, 66 
Jordanstone house, x. Perth, 1119 
Jud^ent thorn, the, iv. Dumfries, 96 
Juniper green village, i Edinburgh, 121 
Jura isle and parish, vii Argyle, 534 
Justinghaugh, remains at, viii Stirling 

210 
Kail water and valley, iii' Roxburgh, 145,. 

147, 189, 191,221, 254, 428, 447,448,. 

450 
Kailzie houM^ &c. iii Roxbuigfa, 

Buppr o Med parish, 36 
Kaim village^ xiii Qgm, 36 



OBHERAL IFDSX. 



KaimofMBtbcn,!!. Kincardine, 3£, 278, 



EoiBin hill, L Edinburgh, 77— camp on, 

91 
KEdmw of AliUe hill, xL For&r, 613 
Kaimea aT Kcclea, ii, Berwick, 58 
KainieB of Greenlaw, ii. Ilerwick, 41 
KaimhQl coliierr. riL Renfrew, 359 
Kttir house, xi. Kincnrdiiw, 26, 161— re- 
main B found Hi, 1S5 
Kiiimhill, ironstone pila at, n Lanark, 

647 
Rale. KG Kail 

Kale port, iv.^Vigton, 133, IS4 
Kame bill, v. Arr,244,24e— quanr, 247 
Kane water, ii. File, 719 
Kames house, iL Berwick, 5S— loch, S4 
Karnes bay. v. Bute, 6<l, 9li_cnstle, 101, 
104 — hill, 96— qunrry, 1 00— propeit; 
lUid tillage, ~ ' 



i. Kin. 



-, 16S 



Katrine loch, x. Perth, 3£0, 1161, Tik. 

Stirling, 89 
Keallin hiLrbour, li*. laremesi, 168 
Kennlochbervie, quoad lacra pariah of^ 

XV. Sutherland, 118, 132 
Kennlochhuvhart, church at, xit. Kom, 

238 
Keom, annexed paiiib oC xiL Aberdeen, 



Kedslie chapel, ii. Berwick, 6 
Keelder castle, iii. Roxburgh, 441 
Kecthill coilierr, *i. Lanark, 645 
Keen mount, xi. Por&r, 191, Kincardine 

24 
Keen of Hammer, xv. Shetland, 37 
Keeny water, xi. forfiu, 192 
Keig pari«h, sii. Aberdeen, 94.1 
Keil cnve, vii. Arxyle, 4 1 3— chapel, 438 

—house, 430 
Keiller^ brae factory, riiL Clackmannan, 

40.49 
Keillor hill, xi. Forfar, 558— village, 559 
Keillor district, x. Perth, 249, 251 
Keillor water, li. Forfaj, S39 
Keills head, viL Argyle, 632— chnrch, 

635 
Keilour bum, ix. File, 22 
Keilaglen, iv. Fifc, 432 
Keirhill.xii. Aberdeen, 1098 
Keir pariah, ir. Dum^es,46(l — hill, 460, 

Kcir hill, vl Lanark, 49— eamp on,57 
Keir house, i. Perth, 1041 
Keir chapel, iv. Wigton, 176 
KeirofLecropt,x. Perth, 1161 
Keir brae of Drum, viii. StirUng. 268 
Keir brae of Tiarden, viiL Stirling, 268 
Keirbead, watch post at, x. Perth, 1 107 ! 
Keir hill of Daiher, liii. Stirling, 268 I 



Keirhill of Oargunnook, viiL Stirling, SI 
Keirhill of aientimui, viii. Stirling, 268 
Keir knowe, renuunt on, nil. Stirhiig,268 
Keir mill, iv. Dumfries, 470 
Keiâ„¢ quarry, v. Ayr, 336 
Keiry crags, ix. Kinross, 42 

.Cniihneas, 117,118, 119— 



Ul- 






. Band 



Keith irat«, iii. Fife, 2.')0 

Keith, annexed parish of, iL Haddingtoo, 

lOO-biim, 101— house, Ac. 02 
Keith, aalmon fisheries of, x. Pcrtli. 244 
Kdthhall and Kinkell, united pariahea 

of, xii. Aberdeen, 743 
Keithhall house, xii Aberdeen, 743, 744 
Keithick village, I. Perth, 1147 
K«th Insch isle, lil Aberdeen, 344 
Kcilbtown Tillage, liv. Hot*, ^56 
Kci Blane.L Edinburgh, 115 
Kelbum I'aittle, &c. v. Ayr, 787, 790, 798 
KeUieod Ihneworka, iv. Dumfriea, 219, 

247— villa^, 263 
Ketlie law, ix. Fi&, 316, 914— collieriea, 

915 
Keilock bnm, siL Aberdeen, 1-2B 
Kelloe house, ii. Berwick 37fl 
Kells pariah, ii. KirkiuiibriRbl, 108 
Kellj bum, xii. Aberdeen iK-i 
Kelly bum, t. Ayr, 790 
Kelly bum, vi" " " 
Kelly castle and house, li Forfor, 332 — 

den, 495 
Ketly house, viL Renfrew, 52S 
Kellyhend hiUs, iiL Peebles, 135 
KelM parish and town, iii. Koxhurgh, 

2H8— abbey, 308, 3 1 7— bridge, 320 
Kelton pariah, iv. Kirkcudbright, 144 
Kelton rillage, iv. Dumfries. 3S6 
Keltic water and Wis, X. Perth, 366,267, 

351, 352, 1226 
Keltnio water, x. Perth. 543, 759 
Keltie bridge, ix. Kinross. 70 — colliery, 

28— lillage, Fife, 176 
Kelvin water, vi. Lanark, 102, 104, 206, 



9.945 



38,137, 



Kelvinhead, soil at, viiL Stirling, 141 — 

houJiC. 145 
Kern water, ix. Fife, 719 
Kembact, parish of, ix. Fife, 719— hills, 

720— mills, (35 
Kemnay. parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 8 1 7 
Kemp castle, mhia of, xi. For&t, 606 
Kcmplaw.forton, V. Ayi, 801 
Kcmpe. know ot^ Renfrew, the, vii. Ren- 
frew, 13 
Kemplemire, spring at, xiiL Banff. 148 
Kempoeh point, vii. Renfinw. 386 
Kemp's rasllc, ruins of, v. Ayr, 109 
Kemp's score, viii. dlaekmannan, T9 



QENEBAL INDEX. 



IxxiK 



Kempstone, remains at, xi. Kincardine, I 

260 
Kempton, remains found at, xiii. Elgin, 46 
Kemyshall, plantations at, iv. Dumfries, 

56 
Ken loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 3, 4, 99, 108, 

ilO, 192, 273— river, 3, 4, 108, 109, 

192, 272, 282, 369 
Kenleith, camp at, i. Edinburgh, 647 
Kenloch, fiiUs of, viL Argyle, 166 
K«nlochaline 4»stle, vii Argyle, 184 
Kenloway bum, ix. Fifie, 460, 464 
Kenly bum, ix. Fife, 368, 460, 464, 914 
Kenmore head, vii. Argyle, 3 — village, 27 
Kenmore, parish of, x. Perth, 452^vil- 

lage,470 
Kenmuick, hinds of, xii Aberdeen, 903 
Kenmuir bog, vi. Lanark, 424, 426 
Kenmure castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 108, 

Ml 
Kenmure h31, vii. Renfrew, 76 
Kennedies* pool, the, v. Ayr, 281 
Kennedy castle, iv. Wigton, 83, 88 
Kennet colliery, viiL Clackmannan, 124 

—house, 127~village, 132, 136 
Kenneth'ft isle, vii. Argyle, 377 
Kennethmont, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 

683 
Kennetpans harbour, viiL Clackmannan, 

123— house, 127 
Kennctsidc h^d, ii. Berwick, 63 
Kennoway, parish of, ix. Fife, 376— vil- 
lage, 376, 379, 380-.bum, 376 
Kennox bum, vi. Lanark, 479 
Kenny, loups of, xi. For&r, 612 
Kenrive hUl, xiv. Ross, 306 — quarries^ 

308 
Kentailen bay, vii. Argyle, 229 
Kenture bay, vii. Argyle, 661 
Keoldale frith, xv. Sutherland, 86— re- 
mains at, 94 
Keonston, camp at, v. Ayr, 496 
Kepping bum, v. Ayr, 790 
Keppoch house, &c.viii. Dimbarton,84, 87 
Keppoch, fkrm of, xiv, Inverness, 604 — 

battle of, 609 
Keppoch lodge, remains found at, xiv. 

Ross, 252 
Kepty hill, xi Forfar, 496 
Kerbet water, xi. Forfer, 208, 223, 338 
Kerchesters hill, iii. Roxburgh, 236 
Kerilaw castle, ruins of, v. Avr, 460, 461, 

462, 455 
Kcrloack hiU, xL Kincardine, 24, 232, 

324 
Kemadort well, iv. Kirkcudbright, 111 
Keroch hill, iv. Wigton, 233 
Kerr}'craig village, v. Bute, 89, 92 
Kerse loch, v. Ayr, 274 — castle, ruins of, 

281 
Kerse, property of, viii. Stirling, 9 — 

house, 12 
Kerse of Kinnel, remains found at, iv. 

Dumfries, 168 
Kersheugh, rocks at, iii. Roxburgh, 3 



Kershope water, iii. Roxbuigh, 441 
Kcrsland collieries, v. Ayr, 231 
Kervaic bay, xv. Sutherland, 86 
Kerry chapel, rains of, iv. Wigton, 176 
Kescaig water, xv. SuUierland, 87 
Kessock ferry, &c. xiv Inverness, 2, 28 
Ross, 61, 229— battle at, 46— property, 
58,69 
Kcthick, village of, x. Perth, 1147 
Ketland glen, vii. Argyle, 473 
Kettins, parish of, xi. Forfar, 641 — vil- 
lage, ib. 
Kettle, parish of, ix. Fife, 102— village, 

106, 109 
Kettle stone, the, vii. Aigyle, 206 
Kettlcholm bridge, iv. Dumfries, 206, 207 
Kettletofl bay, xv. Orkney, 86— remains 

at, 138 
Kcvock bum, vii. Renfrew, 386 
Keygill, ruins at, vL Lanark, 819 
Kidland, quarry at, ii. Haddington, 166 
Kiel church, ruins of, vii Argyle, 499 
Kiel bum, ix. Fife, 438 
Kierfiold hill, xv. Orkney, 42 
Kiggend, village of, vi Lanark, 246 
Kil a Bhean, name of, xiv. Inverness, 14 
Kilbagie house, viii Clackmannan, 128 

— distillery, ib, 
Kilbarchan, parish of, vii. Renfrew, 363 

—village, 354, 363, 371, 378 
Kilbay head, xiv. Ross, 168 
Kilberrv, annexed pansh o^ vii. Argyle, 

408 ' 
Kilbimie, parish of, v. Ayr, 689— col- 
Ueries, 694— hills, 2 1 1 —loch, 571, €90, 
692— place, ruins o^ 691, 706, 707—- 
property, 699— village, 691, 717 
Kilblaan bum, vii. Argyle, 7 — chapel, 

413 
Kilblane, battle of^ xii Aberdeen, 778 
Kilbrachmont hill, ix. Fife, 316, 319 
Kilbrandon sound, v. Bute, 40 
Kilbrandon and Kilchattan, united pa- 
rishes of, vii Ai^le, 71 
Kilbride, annexed parish of, vii Argyle, 

622 
Kilbride bay, vii Aigyle, 360 — church, 

ruins of, 685 — monastery, 26 
Kilbride, West, parish of, v. Ayr, 243 
Kilbride water, v. Ayr, 246 — property, 

264 
Kilbride, parish of, v. Bute, 1 
KUbridehiH, iv. Dumfries, 460— loch, 462 

— ruins of chapel, 467 
Kilbride, ruins of chapel at, xiv. Invemeis, 

306 
Kilbride, ruins of church at, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 332 
Kilbride, East, parish of, vi. Lanark, 877 

—village, 879, 889, 893, 898 
Kilbryde castle, x. Perth, 1041 
Kilbucho, annexed parish of, iii Peebles, 

78— house, 86 
Kilbum, embankments at, iv. Dumfiiei, 
409 



Ixxx 



aSKSBAL INDEX. 



Kilcadcow law, tL Lanark, 565— lime- 

workB, 569— village, 592 
Kilcalmkill, property of, zt. Sutherland, 
31, 151— caacade and home, 151— 
burying grmind, 155 
Kilcalmondl and Kilberry, united pa- 
rishes of^ vii. Aigyle, 408 
Kilchatan bay, v. Bute, 83 — remaina at, 

85~viUage, 89, 92 
Kilchattan, annexed pariah at, vii Aigyle, 

71 
Kilchenxie, annexed pariah of^ vii. Ai^le, 

376 
Rilchiaran harbour, viL Argyle, 230 
Kilchoan harbour, vii Argyle, 156 
Kilchoman, pariah of^ viL Argyle, 644-— 

bay, 645 
Kilchrenan and Dalavich, united pariahea 

of, vii. Argyle, 372 
Kilchriat, ruina of church o^ xiv. Inver- 

aea8,S06 
Kilchr^ nunnery of, i v. Kirkcudbri^t, 40 
Kilchriat, annexed pariah of^ xiv. Rmb, 

399 
Kilclerin caatle, xiv. Invemeaa, 204, 207 
Kilconquhar, pariah o^ ix. Fife, 315— 

houaa, S26-*loch, 280, 317 
Kilcoy castle, xiv. Rosa, 66, 384 — ^pro- 

peiV* 58, 63, 65, 68 
Kilcraigin, ruina of chapel at, viii. Dun- 
barton, 117— village, 126 
Kildalton, pariah of; viL Argyle, 659 
Kildaranan, niina of chapel at, v. Bute, 

103 
Kildavie glen, vii. Argyle, 417 
Kildean bridge, viii Stirling, 426 
Kildonan, improvementa at, v. Ayr, 533 
Kildonan, paridi of, xv. Sutherland, 133 

— strath, 135 
Kildonnan, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wig- 
ton, 1 99 
Kildrummy, pariah of^ xii. Aberdeen, 976 

castle 544 976 

Kilfedder, old ilall at, iv. Wigton, 232 
kilfilt house, ruina oU iv* Wigton, 142 
Kilfinan, parish of, viL Argyle, 359— bay, 

360— bum, 362, 863 
Kilfinichen house, vii Argyle, 306 
Kilfinichen and Kilviceuen, united pa- 
rishes of, vii Aigyle, 296 
Kilfinnan, parallel roads o^ xiv. Invemeaa, 

506 
Kilforman, cairns of, xiii. Elgin, 86 
Kilgour, suppressed parish of^ ix. Fife, ! 

920— burial ground at, 939 
Kilgrammie coal pit, v. Ayr, 392 
Kllgraston house and paintings, x. Perth, 

806 
Kilhelvie house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 245, 

251 
Kilhenzie castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 365 
Kilister hill, viii Dunbarton, 84 
Kilkerran house, v. Ayr, 383^— limeworks, 

382— plantations, 384 
KiU hills, viii. StirUng, 274 



ELill water, t. Ayr, 637> 651 
Killallan, annexed pariah, &c. of^ vii Ren- 
frew, 46, 47 
Killantringan bay, iv. Wi^^ton, 182 
KiUarowand Kilmeny, united pariahes of, 

vii Argyle, 668 
KiUbar, chapel at, xiv. Invemeaa^ 198, 206 
KiUcraggan, ruina of chapel at, viii Dun- 
barton, 102 
Kaidean, battle o^ viii Stirling^ 316 
K iliean, ruina of church at, vii Argyle, 287 
Killean, glen o^ xv. Sutherland, 149 
KiUeam, pariah oi; viii Stirling, 60 — 

houae, 61, 63, 66— hilla, 38 
Killeara and Kilchenxie, united pariahet 

o^ vii. Aigyle, 376 
Killeaman, pariah o^ xiv. Roas, 63 
Killennont houae, Slc viii. Dunbarton, 43, 

49 
Killevin church, ruina o^ vii Aigyle, 685 
KiUian, locha at, vii Ai|Qrle, 6 
Killiecrankie, paaa ot, x. Perth, 644— 

battle of; 564, 645 
Killiedraught bay, ii Berwick, 318, 320 
Killiemore, battle o^ iv. Wigton, 172U- 

remaina at, 177 
KilUgray iale, xiv. Invemeaa, 155 
Killin, pariah of, x. Perth, 1066 — village, 

1090, 1091 
Killin loch, xiv. Rosa, 236 
KiUineaa point, iv. Wigton, 201 
KUlock glen, &lla at, vii Renfrew, 317 
Killoe water, iv. Diunfriea, 297 
KiUoran houae, vii Aigyle, 545 
Killundine castle, raina of; vii Argyle, 

184 
Kilmadan, parish of, vii. Argyle, 672 
Kilmadock, pariah of, x. Perth, 1224 — 

ruins of church of; 1231 
Kilmahew house, viii Dunbarton, 87 
Kibnaichiie spring, ^uii Banfi^ 125--houae, 

129 — ^remaina found at, 132 
Kilmalcolm, pariah o^ vii Renfrew, 56 — 

village, 58, 69 
Kilmalie, parish of, xiv. Invemeaa, 1 1 7 
Kilmaluag, district of; xiv. Invemea, 240 

— bay, i5. 
Kilmaluag, suppressed parish of; vii Ar- 
gyle, 223 
Kilmany, parish of, ix. Fife, 532— hill, 533 

—village, i6. 542— property (d, 550 
Kilmardinny loch and groundis, viii Dun- 
barton, 37 — house, 49 
KiUnaria church, ruins of, vii Aigyle, 147 
Kilmarie, ruins of chapel at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 305 
Kilmarnock, parish and town of, v. Ayr, 
535— bum, 536^ollieriea, 587— and 
Troon railway, 554, 683 
Kilmaron house, ix. Fife, 8 
Kilmaronock, pariah o^ viii. Dunbarton, 

211 
Kilmartin, pariah of, vii. Argyle, 547— 
castle, ruins of, 559— house, 561— vil- 
lage, i6. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Ixxxi 



Kilmaun, parish of; v. A}t, 769— water 

and town, ib. 
Kilmelford, annexed parish of, vii Ar- 

gyle,61 
Kilmeny, annexed parish of, vii Argyle, 

668 
Kilmichael water, vii. Aigyle, 633 
Rilmichael chapel, ruins of, v. Bute, 103 

— plantations at, 16 
Kilmilian, burial place at, vii. Argyle, 25 
Kilminuing, renmins at, ix. Fife, 966 
Kilminster bum, xv. Caithness, 123— 

moss, 54, 119, ]26~Ioch, 123 
Kilmonivaig, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 503 
Kiimorack, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 360 

—felU 0^361, 489 
Kilmore house, xiv. Inverness, 43— burial 

place at, 45— church at, 320 
Kilmore,annexed pariah of, vii. Argyle, 339 
Kilmore and Kilbride, united parishes of, 

vii. Aigyle, 522 
Kilmorich, annexed parish of, vii. Aigyle, 
701 
' Kilmorie, ruins of churches at, \iL Aigyle, 
45, 262, 263, 685— house, 676, 686 
Kilmorie, parish of, v. Bute, 40 — ruins of 

chapel of, 103— castle, 104 
Kilmorie, chapel at, iv. Wigton, 111 
Kilmote, plantations at, xv. Sutherland, 

196 
Kilmster, battle at, xv. Caithness, 115 
Kilmuir, or Duirinish, parish o^ xiv. 

Inverness, 322 
Kilmuir, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 237— 

district of, 240 
Kilmuir Easter, parish of, xiv. Ross, 801 
Kilmuir Wester and Suddy, united pa- 
rishes of, xiv. Ross, 57 
Kilmun, annexed parish of, vii. Aigyle, I 

567— Wllageof, 607 
Kihnux house, ix. Fife, 268 
Kilneuar, ruins of chapel at, vii. Aigyle, 

685 

Kilninian and Kilmore, united parishes ! 
of; vii Argyle, 339 ! 

Kilninian, quoad Mcra parish of, vii. Ar- 
gyle, 342 
Kilninver and Kilmelford, united parishes 

of, vii Argyle, 61 
Kilnnide house, vii. Renfrew, 198 
Kilpatrick bay, v. Bute, 41 
Kilpatrick hills, vi. Lanark, 105v viii. 

Dunbarton, 16, 36 
Kilpatrick, New or East, parish of; viiL 
Dunbarton, 36 — Old, parish of, 15— 
village, lA. 23, 29 
Kilpumie hill, xi. Forfar, 558, 560 
Kilravock castle, xiv. Inverness, 452 
Kilrcmonth, name of, ix. Fife, 450 
Kilrennv, parish of, ix. Fife, 970— village, 

975, 977, 980 
Kilrule, ancient name of St Andrews, ix. 

Fife, 450 
Kilruskin, spring at, v. Ayr, 246' 

VOL. XV. 



Kilry hiU and valley, xi. Forfiur, 421, 424 

— bum, 425 
Kil-St-Ninian, burial place at, xi. Inver* 

ness, 46 
Kilspindie, parish of, x. Perth, 1162— 

bum, 1163— village, 1166 
Kilspindy fort, ruins of, ii. Haddington, 

252 
Kilstay, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton, 

199 
Kilsyth, parish of; nii. Stirling, 138— 

town, 141, 158— baUle, 148 
Kiltarlity, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 483— 

braes, 41 
Kilteam, parish o^ xiv. Ross, 313 
Kiltongue coal, the, vi. Lanark, 243 
Kilvarie church, mins of, vii. Arayle, 517 
Kilviceuen, annexed parikh of, viu Aigyle, 

296— church, 349 
Kilwinning, parish of, v. Ayr, 811 — town 
of, 8 1 2, 829— monastery, 8 1 6— masonic 
lodge, 823, 1 Edinburgh, 283 
Kimblethmont quarries, xi. For&r, 540 
Kimmerghame, marl pits at, ii. Berwick, 

267— house, 270 
Kinaldie, trees at, ix. Fife, 306 
Kinardy tower, ruins of, xiii. Banff, 383 

—house, 385 
Kinbattoch, ruins of church at, xii. Aber- 
deen, 417 
Kinbeache loch, xiv. Ross, 41 —property, 

48 
Kinbean hill, xiii. Banff, 295 
Kinbroom house, xii. Aberdeen, 331 
Kinbuck, village of, x. Perth, 1042 
Kincaid printfield, viii. Stirling, 240,248, 

255 — house, 244 
Kincaimey house, x. Perth, 676 
Kincaldmm hill, xi. Forfar, 207, 235— 

chapel at, 216 
Kincaple, village of, ix. Fife, 481 
Kincitfdine house, xiL Aberdeen, 833 — 

village, 834, 836 
Kincardine 0*Niel, parish of, xii. Aber- 
deen, 831 
Kincardine, annexed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 

92— church, 94 
Kincardine castle, ruins o^ xi. Kincardine, 
79, 83— cross, 116— plantations, 69, 78 
— observations on county of, 360 
Kincardine castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 298 
—ferry, 867— glen, 298— moss, and its 
improvements, 1245, 1268— town, 868 
Kincardine in Monteith, parish of, x. 

Perth, 1243 
Kincardine, parish of, xiv. Ross, 403 
Kinclaven, parish of, x. Perth, 1129 — 

castle, t6. 1131 
Kincorth house, xiii. Elgin, 223 
Kincraig hill, ix. Fife, 316, 319— head- 
land, 317 
Kindace, Druidical remains at, xiv. Ross, 

305— house, 306 
Kindallachan, village of, x. Perth, 996 

/ 



Ixxxii 



GENERAL INDEX* 



Kindar loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 244, 245 
Kindy burn, xii. Aberdeen, 431 
Kineddars house, ix. Fife, 799 
Kineder, suppressed parish of, xiiL Elfipn, 

145 — castle, ruins of, 151 
Kinellan loch, xiv. Ross, 236 
Kineilar, pariah of, xii. Aberdeen, 114 
Kinfauns, parish of, x. Perth, 1205 — 
—castle, 1206, 1211, 1212, 1213, 1215 
King crosM, v. Bute, 20 
King pool, the, iv. Dumfries, 430 
King of the Moors farm, viii. Clackman- 
nan, 47 
King of the wood tree, iii. Roxburgh, 5 
Kingarth, parish of, v. Bute, 82 
Kingcase, minerals at, v. Ayr, 171 — hos- 
pital, 173 
Kingcauaie wood, xi. Kincardine, 190 — 

— house, 191 — improvomentfl at, 192 
King CoiPs tomb, v. Ayr, 751 
King Edward, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 
274--bum, 275— castle, ruins o^ 274, 
277 
Kingenny, quarry at, xi. Forfar, 540 — 

chapel, ruins of, 542 
Kingerlocli, district of, vii. Arg}'le, 225 
Kingholm, the, iv. Dumfries, 11 
Kinghom, parish oC ix. Fife, 800 — bay, 
t6.— ness and harbour, 801 — loch, 802 
— town, lA. 804,810,813 
King James' hospital, x. Perth, 67, 126 
Kinglas glen, vii. Argj'le, 472 — water, 478 
Kinglassie, parish of, ix. Fife, 194 — vil- 
lage, 1 95, 201 — agricultural .issociation, 
201 
King Malcolm's stone, xi. Forfar, 344 
Kingoldrum, parish of, xi. Foriar, (II 1 — 

village, 612 
Kingoody hill, xii. AlM»rdcon, 621, x. 
Perth, 406, 407 — qusirrie:*, 41.5 — vil- 
lage and harbour, 410, 418 
Kingiibams, parish of, ix. Fife, 89 — cas- 
tle, ih village, 90, 93, 98 

Kingsbeck burn, vL Lanark, 343 
Kingsburgh house, xiv. Inverness, 262 
King's cairn, the, xiii. Banff, 254 
King's cairn, Crail, ix. Fife, 941 
King's castle, Kirkwall, xv. ( )rkney, 4 
King's causeway, Tiiin, xiv. Ross, 28 J) 
King's cave, Cumbrae, v. Ayr, 270 
King's cave, Drumidoon, v. Bute, 55 
King's cavil quarr>', ii. Lanark, 179 
King's college, Al>erdeen, xii. Abcrdt»en, 

1139 
King's cove, Arran, v. Bute, 20, U 
King's cross, Dundee, xi. Forfar, 16 
King's cross, Pitalpie, xi. Forfar, 580 
Kingsdale house, ix. Fife, 379 
Kingseat, tradition regarding, xii. Aber- 
deen, 1029 
King's gate, the, ix. Fife, 809 
King's haugh, the, x. IVrth, 1 174 
King's haugb, the, xiii. Banff, 1«)6 
Kingshaw limcworks, vi. Lanark, 569 
King's head hill, xiv. Ro.s», 305 



Kingsidc, coins foimd at, iii. Peebles 147 
King's Inch, Channelkirk, ii. Berwick, 2^0 
King's Inch, Fala, i. Edinburgh, 538 
King's Inch, Renfrew, vii. Renfrew, 5, 1*2 
King's isle, Ijaggan, xiv. Invemcas, 423 
King's Kettle, parish of, ix. Fife, 102 
King's kitchen cave, v. Bute, 56 
King's knot, Stirling, viii Stirling, 406 
King's law, geological appearances at, iu 

Haddington, 284 
King's law of Carluke, \i. Lanark, 565 
King's meadow park, Clackmannan, viii. 

Clackmannan, 126 
King's meadow, Renfrew, >ii. Renfrew, 12 
King's Meadows house, iii. Pecbleii, 9 
King's mills dam, xir. Inverness, 10 
King's mount, Arran, v. Bute, 20 
King's muir, histor}' of, ix. Fife, 362 
King's park, Edinbui^h,l Edinburgh, 654 
King's park, Fordoun, xi. Kincardine, 79, 

84 
King's park, Stirling, viiL Stirling, 304, 

391, 397, 406 
King's path and cave, xiv. Ross, 24 
King's seat hill, viiL Clackmannan, 77, 

126 
King's seat, Oathlaw, xi. Forfar, 294 
King's seat, Eddlestone, iii. Peebles, 14 8 
King's seat hill, x. Perth, 219, 1 1 1 1 
Ring's son's know, nios8,&c. vi. Lanark, 1 1 
King's son's rock, tradition r^jarding, xir. 

RosH, 24 
King's stable, morass called, v. Ayr, 779 
King's steps, Coylton, v. Ayr, 656 
King's steps, xiii. Nairn, 2 
King's stone, xi. Kincardine, 86 
Kingston hill, ii. Haddington, 333— vil- 
lage, 216 
Kingston, village of, xiii. Elgin, 52, 53 
KingMtown house, i. Edinburgh, 596 
King's well, Abernyte, x. Perth, 222 
King's well, Alloa, viii. Clackmannan, 6 
King's well, Newtyle, xi. Forfar, 559 
King's well, Sorn, v. Ayr, 136 
King's well inn, v. Ayr, 778 
King's wud end, the, ix. Fife, 801, 805 
Kingussie, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 6.'<— 

village, 76, 77, 78 
King William's dock, Dundee, xi. Forfar, 

2 
Kinharvev house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 244, 

251 
Kininvie, lead ore at, xiii. Banff, 104 
Kink hill, iii. Roxburgh, '255 
Kinkell, annexed parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 

655, 743 
Kinkell cave, ix. Fife, 451 
Kinkell brae, xi. Kmcardine, 68 
Kinkell bridge, x. Perth, 341 
Kinkell, rocks at, viii. Stirling, 240 
Kin loch, village of, ix Fife, 30 
Kinl«»ch, annexed parish of, x. Perth, 

1001— house, 235 
Kinloch water, xv. Sutherland, 170 
KinlochluioliArt, district of, xiv. Ross, 244 
3 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Ixxxiii 



Kinlochmoidart, (llBtrict o^ vii. Argyle, > 

125 i 

Kinloss, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 202 — ^burn, 

204— abbey, 206, xii. Aberdeen, 902, 

xiv. Inverness, 15 
Kinmont house, iv. Dumfries, 31, 250 
Kinmuck, ancient camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 

744 
Kinnaber fishery, xi. Kincardine, 289 
Kinnaird, annexed parish of, xi. Forfar, 

109— castle, 110 
Kinnaird, parish of^ x. Perth, 228 — castle, 

ruins of, {'6. — house, 1008 
Kinnaird, property of, viii. Stirling, 340, 

344 — coal, 345— park and house, 347, 

302 
Kinnaird ^s head, light on, xii. Aberdeen, 

249, 703 
Kinnear, property of, ix. Fife, 549— quar- 
ry, 536 
Kinneddcr castle, ruins of, xiii. Elgin, 151 
Kinneff, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 309 — 

castle, ruins of, ib. 314 
Kinneil, Roman wall at, ii. Linlithgow, 

128— corse, 147— house, 130, 131 — 

suppressed parish of, 120 
Kinnclhead tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 

127 
Kinneil water, iv. Dumfries, 40, 124, 125, 

151, 378 
Kinneil parish of, xi. Forfar, 393 
Kinneil, Druidical remains at, x. Perth, 

1088— house, 1086 
Kinncirs mill, xi. Forfiir, 396, 408 
Kinnermony, daugh of, xiii. Banff, 1 12 
Kinncttas, annexed parish of, xiv. Koas, 

Kinnettles, parish of, xi. Forfiir, 206 — 

hill, 207 
Kinninmouth quarry, ix. Fife, 518 
Kinoir, ancient parish o^ xii. Aberdeen, 

1036 
Kinnordy loch and moss, xi. Forfiir, 162, 

165, 613— house, &c. 171, 178 
Kinnouli, parish of, x. Perth, 933 — castle, 
ruins of, 937— hill, 2, 935, 1206, xi. 
Forfar, 393 
Kinram house and plantations, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 84, 85, 89 
Kinrive quarries, xiv. Ross, 308 
Kinross, parish of, ix. Kinross, 1— town, 

ih. 15, 19— house, 8, 16 
Kinross Green inn, ix. Kinross, 27 
Kinroi^shire, observations on, ix. Kiiux>S8, 

70— savings bank, 25 
Kinshaw limeworks, vi. Ijjinark, 569 
Kintail, parish of, xiv. lioss, 170 
Kin tail, ancient parish of,xv. Sutherland, 

164 
Kintcss<ick, \illagc of, xiii Elgin, 226 
K iiitocher, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 1 088 
Kintore, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 655— 

town, 656, 657 
Kintra, moss of, vii. Argyle, 127-- sand- 
stone, 131 



Kintrace glen, xv. Sutherland, 134 
Kintradwell bay, xv. Sutherland, 189 — 

house, 194, 199 
Kintulloch, village of, x. Perth, 817 
Kintyre mull and lighthouse, vii. Argyle, 

414,422,430 
Kinvaid castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 201 
Kip rock, ii. Berwick, 132 
Kip water, vii. Renfrew, 454, 525, 537 
Kiplaw hill, iii. Roxburgh, 145 
Kij>p hill, i. Edinburgh, 49, ii. Linlithgow, 

36 — house, 49 — colliery, 37, 52 
Kipp of Haughhead, the, iii. Roxburgh, 

226 
Kippen, parish of, viii. Stirling, 264 — 

markets, 272— moor, 265 — village, 264, 

270 
KippendaWc house, x. Perth, 1041 
Kipperminshock, plantations at, viii. Dun* 

barton, 91 
Kippet hills, xii. Aberdeen, 591 
Kippilaw house, iii. Roxburgh, 39 
Kirbister loch, xv, Orkney, 16 — point, 

172 
Kirdals, plantations at, xiii. Elgin, 67 
Kirk bum of Broughton, iii. Peebles, 79 
Kirk bum of Kailzie, iii. Peebles, 39 
Kirk bum of Meams, vii. Renfrew, 521 
Kirk hope, iii Roxburgh, 191 
Kirk loch, Lochmaben, iv. Dumfries, 379 
Kirk park of Mordington, il Berwick, 

346 
Kirk o'Field, site of, I Edinburgh, 628 
Kirk of llow, ruins of, xv. Orknev, 125 
Kirk of the Grove, the, x. Perth, *265 
Kirk o'Muir,the, viii. Stirling, 323 
Kirk of Shotts collieries, vi. Lanark, 625 
Kirkag water, xv. Sutherland, 114, 213 
Kirkandrews church, ruins of, iv. Kirk* 

eudbright, 54 — village, 55 
Kirkapol bay, vii. Argyle, 197 
Kirkbean, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

234— village, 242 
Kirkbride, Kirkcolm, chapel at, iv. Wig- 
ton, 1 1 1 
Kirkbride, Kirkmaiden, mins of chapel 

at, iv. Wigton, 199 
Kirkbride, Kirkmichael, improvements at, 

v. Ayr, 502 
Kirkbride, Maybole, ruins of church of, 

v. Ayr, 364 
Kirkbuddo, district of, xi. Forfar, 469— 

house, 470 
Kirkbum, Cambuslang, marble quarries, 

&c. vlLimark, 419, 423 
Kirkbum, Crawfordjohn, lead mines at, vL 

Lanark, 500 
Kirkcaldy, parish of, ix. Fife, 740— town, 

741 — Agricultural Association, 756— 

Chamber of Commerce, 158 
Kirkcalla, old buriiil ground of, iv. Wig- 
ton, 232 
Kirkclauch house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 382 
Kirkcolm, parish of, iv. Wigton, 102 
Kirkconnel, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 3U« 



Ixxxiv 



GElfBBAL IKDEX. 



— village, 316— burial ground, 279— 
site of house, 280 
Kirkconnell house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 225 
Kirkconhack, ruins of church of, iv. Kirk- 
cudbright, 170 
Kirk craig of Kinghorn, ix. Fife, 801 
Kirkcudbright, stewartry of, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 387— iwrish, 1— town, 12, 20, 
30 — castle, ruins and history of, 11, 20 
Kirkcudbright Innertig, ancient parish of^ 

V. Ayr, 415 
Kirkdalc house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 334 — 

old chapel and parish of, 313 
Kirkden, parish of, xi. Forfiu*, 383 
Kirk Dominae, Barr, ruins of, v. Ayr, 409 
Kirkdrain, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton, 

199 
Kirkebost isle, xiv. Inverness, 163 
Kirkfield bank, village of, vi. Lanark, 4, 

38 
Kirkforthar house, ix. Fife, 668 
Kirkgunzeon, parish of,iv. Kirkcudbright, 

218— loch, 246 
Kirkhall of Ardroasan, v. Ayr, 194 
Kirkheuch of St Andrews, ix. Fife, 468 
Kirkhill, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 459 
Kirkhill of Avondale, the, vi. Lanark, 301 
Kirkhill of Cambuslang, village of, vi. La- 
nark, 420, 431 
Kirkhill castle, Colmonell, ruins of, t. 

Ayr, 529 
Kirkhill of Dryfesdale, iv. Dumfries, 466 
Kirkhill of Kinnettles, xi. Forfer, 216 
Kirkhill house, Meigle, x. Perth, 235 
Kirkhill of Neilston, well at, vii. Renfrew, 

315 
Kirkhill of Nigg, property of, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 205 
Kirkhill, Pcnnicuik, village of, i. Edin- 
burgh, 45 
Kirkhill of St Andrews, ix. Fife, 468 
Kirkhill of Stomoway, xiv. Ross, 137 
Kirkhill of Tillicoultry, viii. Clackman- 
nan, ()G 
Kirkhill house, Uphall, ii. Linb'thgow, 87 
Kirkholm isle, xv. Shetland, 100, 109 
Kirkhoble, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton, 

176 
Kirkhope, ruins of chapel at, iii. Selkirk, 

68 
Kirkinner, parish of, iv. M'igton, 9 
Kirkintilloch, parinh of, viii. Dun barton, 
168— castle, ruins of, 1 H6— town, 168, 
185, 200 — railway, vi. Lanark, 411 
Kirkland moat, iv. Dumfries, 11 
Kirkland blciichfield, viii. Dun barton, 225 
Kirkland K])inning mills, ix. Fife, 394, 397 

—village, 398, 400 
Kirkland hill, ruins of chapel at, iii. 

Peebles, 101 
KirklandH mineral spring, ix. Fife, 518— 

house, 799 
Kirklandu house, iii. Roxburgh, 245 
Kirklands of Cavers, the, iii. Roxburgh, 
429 ' 



Kirkleish, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton^ 

199 
Kirklic green, v. Ayr, 578 
Kirkliston, parish of^ I Edinbuigh, 1S3 — 

village, 139 
Kirkmabreck, pariah of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

311 
Kirkmahoe, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 53 
Kirkmadrine, suppressed parish of, iv. 
Wigton, 22, 27— church, ruins of, 164 
Kirkmaiden, parish of, iv. Wigton, 199 
Kirkmay, coal at, ix. Fife, 946 — house, 

952 
Kirkmichael, parish of, v. Ayr, 492— 

house, 500— loch, 493— village, 504 
Kirkmichael, parish of, xiii. Ba^, 296 
Kirkmichael, parish (^, iv. Dumfries, 67 

—fell, 68— house, 61 
Kirkmichael, ruins of chapel at, viiL Dun- 
barton, 75 
Kirkmichael, parish of, x. Perth, 785 
Kirkmichael and Cullicudden, united pa- 
rishes of, xiv. Ross, 37 
Kirkmien hill, v. Ayr, 278 
Kirkmuirhill, village of, vi. Lanark, 38 
Kirkness head, xv. Shetland, 100, 103 
Kirknewton, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 433 

—village, 434, 445 
Kirkney, ruins of chapel at, xiii. Banff, 97 
Kirknow, vilUige of, vi. Lanark, 621 
Kirkoswald, pariah of, v. Ayr, 781— vil- 
lage, 783 
Kirkowan, parish of, iv. Wigton, 196 
Kirk Patrick muir, iv. Kirkcudbright, 256 
Kirkpatrick Durham, parish of, iv. Kirk- 
cudbright, 256— village, 260 
Kirkpatrick Fleming, parisli of, iv. Dum- 
fries, 274 
Kirkpatrick Irongray, parish of, iv. Kirk- 
cudbright, 265 
Kirkpatrick Juxta, parish of, iv. Dumfries^ 

124 
Kirk Pottie, ruins of, x. Perth, 810 
Kirkrow plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 194 
Kirkside house, St Cvrus, xi. Kincardine, 

283 
Kirkstyle of Ruthwell, the, iv. Dumfries, 

228 
Kirkton limeworks, Bathgate, ii. Linlith- 
gow, 153 
Kirkton hill, Dalzell, cairn on, vL Lanark, 

485 
Kirkton hill of Kingoldrum, xi Forfar, 

612— village, 617 
Kirkton hill of Marjkirk, xi. Kiucanline, 

300— house, 302 
Kirkton bum, Neilston, vii. Renfrew, 316 
Kirkton glen of Campaie, viii. Stirling, 235 

—water, 236 
Kirkton water and cascade, vii. Aigyle, 65 
Kirkton of Airlie village, xi. Forfar, 671 

— remains at, 679 
Kirkton of Arbirlot village, xi. Forfar, 334 
Kirkton of Auchterlcss village, xii. Aber^ 
deen, 888 



GENSRAL INDBX. 



Ixxxv 



Kirkton of Avoch village, xiv. Ron, 392 

Kirkton of Balmerino village, ix. Fife, 578 

Kirkton of Banchory village, xi Kincai^ 
dine, 355 

Kirkton of Burntisland village, ix. Fife, 
404, 415 — trains of chapel at, 414 

Kirkton of Carluke property, vL Lanark, 
578 

Kirkton of Cumbrae, v. Bute, 79 

Kirkton of Dunnichen village, xi. Forfiu', 
152 

Kirkton of Ewes village, iv. DumfHes, 440 

Kirkton of Fetteresso village, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 262 

Kirkton of Fordoun village, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 103 

Kirkton of Gargunneck village, viii. Stir- 
ling, 56 

Kirkton of Glenelg village, xiv. Inverness, 
139 

Kirkton of Guthrie village, xL Forfar, 472 

Kirkton of Hobkirk quarry, iii. Roxbuigh, 
210 

Kirkton of Kilbride village, v. Ayr, 248, 
264 

Kirkton of Kinnettles village, xL Forfor, 
225~spring at, 208 

Kirkton of Laigo village, ix. Fife, 441 

Kirkton of Lawrencekirk village, xL Kin- 
cardine, 129 

Kirkton of Liff village, xi. For&r, 582, 
586 

Kirkton of Lintrathen village, xL For&r, 
640 

Kirkton of Neilston village, vii Renfrew, 
307 

Kirkton of Nevrtyle, remains at, xi. For- 
far, 559— Tillage, 562 

Kirkton of Row village, viii. Dunbarton, 
76 

Kirkton of St Cyrus village, xi Kincar- 
dine, 285, 292 

Kirkton of St Ninians village, viii Stilling, 
304 

Kirkton of Slamanan village, viii Stirling, 
278 

Kirkton of Stonykirk village, iv. Wigton, 
164 

Kirkton of Tullich village, xii. Aberdeen, 
779, 781 

Kirktonholm house, vi. Ijanark, 892 

Kirktown, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 377 

Kirktownmalns, ruins of tower at, iv. Dura- 
fries, 453 

Kirkurd, parish of, iii. Peebles, 127 

Kirkville house, xii Aberdeen, 1098 

Kirkwall, town of, xv. Orkney, 1, 215 — 
bay, 1 

Kirkwall and St Ola, united parishes of, 
XV. Orkney, 1 

Kirkwood hill, iv. Dumfries, 207 

Kirk Yetholm, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 
159, 165, 173— gypsies of, 165 

Kirkyetton hiU, i Edinburgh, 108, 324 

Kiim^U valley, x. Perth, 1078 



Kimevam, remains at, iv. Wigton, 232 
Kirouchtree house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

118, 134 
Kirriemuir, parish of, xi For&r, 158 — 

hill, 159— town, 183 
Kirtle water, iv. Dumfries, 256, 263, 274, 

276 
Kirktomy valley, xv. Sutherland, 67— ^ 

bay, 68 — aird, ib. 
Kiscadale, remains at, v. Bute, 23 
Kishom, district of, xiv. Roes, 99— cop- 
per mine at, 100 
Kismul castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 

204, 207 
Kisthill well, ii Haddington, 225 
Kist vaen, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 30 
Kitchen linn bum, vi Lanark, 606 
Kittimuir, soil at, vi Lanark, 257 
Kittock water, vi Lanark, 598, 879 
Kittockside village, vi. Lanark, 877, 893, 

898 
Kittyfristy well, viii StirUng, 147 
Kittymure well, vi. Lanark, 471 
Kitty's cave, xiii Banff, 179 
Klett isle, xv. Sutherland, 106 
Klibreck, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 214 
Knaick water, x. Perth, 312, 315 
Knap o' Castle, ruins of^ xi For&r, 325 
Knap of Cothill tumulus, xi Forfiur, 826 
Knapdale, North, parish of, vii. Aigyle, 

631 
Knapdale, South, parish of, vii. Aigyle, 

257 
Kneeas head, xiv. Roas, 117, 118 
Knightland moss and bum, xii Aberdeen, 

298 
Knightsridge hill, ii. Linlithgow, 115 
Knightswood., propertv of, viii. Dunbarton, 

46 
Knipe hill, v. Ayr, 509, 510 
Knock property and house, v. Ayr, 799 
Knock castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 318 
Knock water, &c. x. Perth, 263, 812 
Knock head, xiii. Banff, 221 
Knock of Alves hill, xiii Elgin, 86, 102 
Knock of Bathgate, the, ii. Linlithgow, 

150 
Knock of Brae Moray hill, xiii Elgin, 1 79 
Knock of Crieff hill, x. Perth, 489 
Knock of Fordoun hill, xi Kincardine, 69 
Knock of Fordvce hill, xiii. Banff, 179 
Knock of Formal hill, xi. For&r, 636 
Knock of Grange, xiii Banff, 213 
Knock of Ordiquhill hiU, xui Banff, 79, 

80 
Knock of Renfrew, the, vii. Renfrew, 2^ 

13,17 
Knockando, parish of^ xiii Elgin, 60— 

bum, 63, 66— house, &c 60, 67, 70 
Knockankclly, plantations at, v. Bute, 16 
Knockantsabhal hill, xiv. Ross, 434 
Knockbain, parish of, xiv. Roes, 57 — hill, 

384 
Knockbeg, Pictiih remains on, xii Aber- 
deen, 1056 



Ixxxvi 



QENKRAL INDEX. 



Knockbrax, remains found at,iv. Wigton, 

177 
K nockbreck water, viL Argyle, 536 
Knockbumicy limestone at, v. Ayr, 512 
Knock Craggy, xv. Sutherland, 171 
Knockcraig hill, iv. DumfHes, 67 
Knockdavie castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 414 
Knockdaw castle, ruins o^ v. Ayr, 529 
Knockderry, ruins of fort at, viii. Dunbar- 

ton, 110,116 
Knockdolian castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 529 

— house, ib. — hill, 532 
Knockdon hill, v. Ayr, 475 ^ead ore at, 

352 
Knock Durroch, Roman camp at, x. Perth, 

272 
Knock Elderaboll hill, xv. Sutherland, 

189 
Knockenbaird hill, xii. Aberdeen, 748 
Knock Farril hill and vitrified fort, xiv. 

Ross, 245 
Knockfin hill, xv. Sutherland, 135— 

school at, 501 
Knockgeoi^gan hill, v. Ayr, 191 — camp 

on, 198 
Knockgerran, barony of, v. Ayr, 381 
Knockglass, district of, xv. Caithness, 79 
Knockhall castle, ruins of, xil Aberdeen, 

(}99 
Knockhall, market at, xv. Orkney, 189 
Knockice, Roman camps on, xii. Aber- 
deen, 1057— battle of, 1058 
Knockinglaw hill, xii. Aberdeen, 677 
KnockinhHglish hill, \iii. Stirling, 106 
Knockinnan castle, ruins of, xv. Caith- 
ness, 91 
Knockinstone, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 

336 
Knockimy hill, xiv. Ross, 404 
Knocklagan hill, xiv. Ross, 435 
Knockmade, barony of, \ii. Renfrew, 308 
Knock-ma-har hill, x. Perth, 898 
Knockman loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 370 
Knockmarloch limeworks, v. Ayr, 606 
Knockmcad hill, v Ayr, 289 
Knockmoy hill, vii. Argyle, 413 
Knockniurran ford, v. Ayr, 656 
Knock-nn-barcibhich hill, xv. Caithness, 

13, 15 
Knock-na-gillan, tnulition regarding, xiii. 

Nairn, 1 , 9 
Knocknalliiig house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

112 
Knocknavie hill, xiv. Ross, 27 1 
KnockiioH-ton hill, vi. Lanark, 609 
Knock'nreachy, tumulus called, xv. Su- 
therland, 147 
Knockphail hill, xiv. Inverness, 285 
K nockshogtjle colliery, v. Ayr, 651 — vil- 

Ijigc, 662 
Knockside hill, v. Ayr, 787 
Knocksleitill hill, xv. Caitlmess, 13 
Knocksting loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 370 
Knock Urray castle, ruins of, xv. Caith- 
ness, 13 



Knockvill, remains at, iv. Wi^n, 233 
Knockwood, fort at, iv. Dumfines, 69 
Knodyard, district of, xiv. Invemets, 129, 

504 
Knotty holm, the, iv. Dumfries, 483 
Knowe of Skae head, xv. Orkney, 116 
Knowes of Myrtis, the, xv. Orkney, 140 
Knowhead, improvements at, viii. Stirling, 

126, forge at, 130 
Knows spinning mills, v. AyT, 591 
Knowsouth property and house, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 286 
Knox house, xi. Kincardine, 27 
Knox's kirk, niins of, ii. Haddington, 194 
KolUeben hill, xv. Sutherland, 189 
Koltag hill, XV. Caithness, 1 6 
Kor stone, ihe, x. Perth, 201 
Kvle castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 326 — dia- 

'trictof, 178,310,475,666 
Kyle of Assvnt, xv. Sutherland, 1 05 
Kyles of Bute, v. Bute, 95, 110 
Kyle of Durness, xv. Sutherland, 83, 84, 

86 
Kyle of Kincardine, xiv. Rom, 404 
Kyle of Laxford, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Kyle of Sutherland, xiv. Ross, 437, xt. 

Sutherland, 215 
Kyle of Tongue, xv. Sutherland, 164, 166, 

168 
Kyle Akin, xiv. Inverness, 134, 302, Ross, 

170, 178, 184— village, 807 
Kyle Rhea, xiv. Inverness, 134, 317, 

Ross, 178, 181, 182, 184— tumulus at, 

Inverness, 134 
Kvleswell, V. Avr,8l9 
Kyles hill, ii. Berwick, 231 
Kvlcside, chapel at, xv. Sutherkind, 1 1 5 
Kyle Sku, xv. Sutherland, 119, 121 
Kylostrome, Danish remains at, xv. Su- 

'therland, 127 
Kylochy, property of, xiv. Inverness, 390 
Kymah burn, xiii. Banff, 126 
Kypc water, vi. Lanark, 31, 302, 468, 470 
Kype's rigg hill, vi. Lanark, 301 
La l)lar beine, battle of, xiv. Inverness, 

508 
Ljiekerstone, barrow called, ix. Fife, 106 
Lacksta bum, xiv. Inverness, 156 
Lacock, village of, x. Perth, 249, 259 
La<Ulcr cave, the, vii. Argyle, 299 
Ladedda hill, ix. Fife, 520— quarry, 521 
Ijadhoi>e hills, iii. Roxburgh, 52 
Ladie well, Stirling, >iiL Stirling, 406, 407 
Lady, parish of, xv. Orkney, 1 33 
Lady bay, iv. Wigton, 104, 107 
Lady bum, ix. Fife, 1» 2 
Ladv chapel of Kirkbum, ruins of, vi. 

Lanark, 430 
Lady glen of Dailly, v. Ayr, 384 
Lady kirk of Canisbay, xv. Caithness, 25 
Lady well of Airth, viii. Stirling, 281 
Ladv well of Balmerino, ix. Fife, 580 
Ltulv well of Falkland, ix. Fife, 938 
Lady well of Olenisla, xi. Forfar, 422 
Lady well of Grange, xiii. Banff, 214 



QENERAL INDEX. 



Ixxxvii 



l-"/ly of Loretto, chapel of, i. Edinburgh, 

Lady Alva's web, viii. Stirling, 178 
Lady Banks' well, xi. Kincardine, 298 
Lady Corse, remains at, v. Ayr, 360 
I^dy Craigh hill, iv. Wigton, 124 
Lady ha colliery, v. Ayr, 813 
Ladyhill of Elgin, ruins on, xiii. Elgin, 8 
Lady kirk, parish of, ii. Berwick, 181— 

house, 183 
Ladykirk in Kyle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 173 
Ladyland house, v. Ayr, 697, 707, 708— 

property, 702, 714— remains found at, 

703 

Ladyloan, district of, xi. Forfar, 489, 490 

— church, 515 
Ladysford house, xii. Aberdeen, 723 
lady's scaup, the, ii. Linlithgow, 148 
I-Aily's seat, xiv. Ross, 435 
Lady's well, Aboyne, xiL Aberdeen, 1060 
Lady's well, Alloa, viii. Clackmannan, 6 
Lady's well, Avoch, xiv. Ross, 384, 390 
Lady's well, Be<lrule, iii. Roxburgh, 283 
Lady's well, Daviot, xii. Aberdeen, 822 
Lady's well, Kincardine, xiv. Ross, 410 
Lady's well, Mamoch, xiii. BaniF, 382 
Lady's well. Stow, i. Edinburgh, 409 
La<ly'8 well, Traquair, iii. Peebles, 39 
Lady's well, Whitekirk, ii. Haddington, 

Lady's yards, Jedburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 5 
Ladyurd, camps at, iii. Peebles, 129 
Lady Ycster's church, i. Edinburgh, 663 
Laes, remains found at, xi. Kincardine, 
160 

Lag distillery, v. Bute, 56 
Lag tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 340 
I^Aga, chapel at, vii. Argyle, 158 
Lagamhulin bay, vii. A^yle, 660 
Laggan point, cave at, vii. Argyle, 279 — 

ruins of chapel at, 287 
Laggan loch, v. Ayr, 395 
I^aggan, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 417 — 
loch, 419, 420, 505— rise of the Spey 
at, 65 
Laggan loch, xv. Sutherland, 17 
Laggan hill, x. Perth, 491, 725 
Laght Alpine castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 315 
Lag-na-cuimminich, the, xiii. Elgin, 140 
Lahich loch, vii. Aigyle, 302 
Laigh, district of, xiv. Ross, 74 
Laighcraigton, old tombstone at, vi. La- 
nark, 693 
Laigh Dalmore, plumbago at, v. Ayr, 652 
Laigh Gameshill limeworks, v. Ayr, 291, 
301 

Laighshaw, standing stone at, v. Ajt, 152 

Laight, rocks at, v. Ayr, 51 1 

Lainshaw house, v. Ayr, 734— moathiU 

at, 580 
Lairdmannoch linn, iv. Kirkcudbright, 65 
Laird's hill, viii. StirUng, 140 
Laii^, pari^ of, xv. SuUierland, 58— pass 

of, xiv. Ross, 434 
Laithers, property o^ xii. Aberdeen, 991 



— ruins of church at, 983 — slate qiuirry, 

985 
Lakefield house, xiv. Inverness, 38, 43 
I^mancha loch, iii. Peebles, 136 
Lamb head, xv. Orkney, 157 
Lamb isle, ii. Haddington, 204 
Lamba ness, xv. Shetland, 38, 49 . 
LamberlawB, camp on, ix. Fife, 413 
Lamberton chapel, il Berwick, 340— hill, 

200— moor, 137 
Lambhill, slate quarries at, xii. Aberdeen, 

600 
Lambhill, property of, vi. Lanark, 304 
Lambhoga hill, xv* Shetland, 23 
Lambholme isle, xv. Orkney, 204 
Lambiness point, xv. Orkney, 85 
Lamgarroch hill, iv. Dumfries, 473 
Lamington castle, vi. Lanark, 1 6 
Lamingtoune, annexed parish of, vi. La- 
nark, 805— hill, 807— village, 807, 822, 

835 — bum, 809, 810— castle, ruins of, 

810, 819— barony of, 812, 815 
Lamlash bay, v. Bute, 3, 4— village, 4, 

33 
Lamma isle, xv. Shetland, 7 1 
Lammerlaw hill, ii. Berwick, 1, Hadding* 

ton, 100, 154 . 
Lammermiur hills, i. Edinburgh, 154, 534, 

ii. Berwick, 1, 88, 105, 115, 236, 247, 

279, 348,361, Haddington, 55,61, 95, 

100, 154, 224, 225, 357, 358, 359, 869 
Lament house, vii Argyle, 359, 365 
Lamoreck's tower, iiL Roxburgh, 388, 392 
Lanark, parish of, vi. Lanark, 1— town, ib. 

10, 23— moor, 2 — church, ruins of, 14 

— company's mills, 1 48 
Lanarkshire, observations on, vi. Lanark, 

934 
Lancefield spinning company, vi. Lanark, 

154 
Land, cairn at, iv. Dumfries, 475 
Landend bay, xiii. Banff, 179 
Landerick, remains at, xi. Forfar, 679 
Landhcad hill, xi. Forfar, 614 
Lanehead quarry, v. Ayr, 512 
Ijanfine, coins found at, v. Ayr, 182 
Lang bum, iii. Roxburgh, 210 
Lang loch, vi. Lanark, 3, 945 
Langal moss, vii. Argyle, 127 
Langanduin, dun at, xiv. Ross, 1 10 
Langfaugh colliery, vi. Lanark, 258 
Langhaugh tower, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 

116 
Langholm, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 416 — 

town, 418, 422 — castle, ruins of, 420— 

lodge, 421 
Langholme farm, improvements at, vi. 

Lanark, 833 
Langhope bum, iii. Selkirk, 38 
Langhouse house, vii. Renfrew, 526 
Langlands, remains found at, v. Ayr, 704 
Langlands Dean, village o£» iii. Roxbuigh, 

81 
Jjanglee house, iii. Roxbui^gh, 14 
Langley Park house, xi. Forfiir, 123, 125 



Ixxxviii 



OENBRAL IITDSZ. 



Langlone quarry, vi. Lanark, 648 — vil- 
lage, 652 
Langraw, remains found at, iii Roxburgh, 

212 
Langshaw house, iT. Dumfries, 280 
Langshaw bum, limeworks at, vi. Lanark, 

56.9 
Ijangftide, village of, vii. Renfrew, 496, 
A06— house, 503— battle, ib, vi. La- 
nark, 674 
Langside bum, Pictish remains at, iii. 

Roxburgh, 433 
Langton, parish of, ii. Berwick, 236^ 

bum, 236, 248 — house, 236, 238— 

tower, ruins of, 285— village, 236, 287 

—wood, 237 
Langton Edge hill, ii. Berwick, 223, 236 
Langton Lees burn, ii. Berwick, 236 
Langwell, property of, xv. Caithness, 88 

—strath and water, 84, 86, 88 
Lanrick castle, x. Perth, 1232 — slate 

quarry, 352 — suspension bridge, 1232, 

1240 
Lanton tower, ruins of, iii. Roxburgh, 1 1 

— village, 18 
Lany, suppressed parish of^ x. Perth, 1095 

— ruins of church of, 1105 
Laoghal hills, zv. Sutherland, 165, 170 

—loch, 169 
Laordean loch, x. Perth, 540 
Lappa, rocks at, ix. Fife, 921 
Laran water, viiL Dimbarton, 1 55 
Larbcrt, parish of, viii. Stirling, 340 — 

house, ib. — village, 375 
Larg castle, ruins of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

1 26, Wigton, 88— hills, Kirkcudbright, 

814, 347 
Large Bemera isle, xiv. Ross, 155 
Largiebeg point, v. Bute, 40 — remains 

at, 23 
Lorgicmore, remains at, v. Bute, 23 
Lafgo, parish of, ix. Fife, 434 — bav, 317, 

434— house, 435, 437— law, 816, 434 

—village, 436, 442 
Largoward collieries, ix. Fife, 322— cha- 
pel, 333 
Lajgs, parish and town of, v. Ayr, 786— 

battle of, 794 
Larich ruadh, the, xiiL Elgin, 138 
Larkhall, village of, vi I^anark, 250, 722, 

726, 736, 737, 749 
Laro loch, xv. Sutherland, 1 7 
Laroch, WUage of, vii. Argjle, 251 — wa- 
ter, 231 
Laroch, ruins of chapel at, riii. Stirling, 

106 
Lashy Roost rocks, xv. Orkney, 86 
Lasswade, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 323— 

town, 335 
Latch quarry, xi. Forfar, 353 
Laterbannochy house, mins of, x. Perth, 

250 

Lathallan collieries, ix. Fife, 322— .house, 
6 

Lathalmond lime quarry, ix. Fife, 839 



Latheron, parish o^ xv. Caithneas, 83 
LatheronwheeU property of, xv. Caith- 
ness, 88, 99 
Lathockar, trees at, ix. Fife, 306— bridge, 

913 
Lathones, village of, ix. Fife, 307 
Lathro, plantations at, ix. KinroM, 16 
Latterach bum, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Lauchop mill, vi. Lanark, 775 
Lauder, parish o^ ii. Berwick, 1— town, 

ib, 3, 6, 11 — hill, camps on, 5 
Lauderdale, ii. Berwick, 1, 88 — agricul- 
tural association, 10 
Lauder moor, remains found at, ii Bei^ 

wick, 5 
Laughing hill, the, ii Linlithgow, 129 
Laurencehouse, village of^ ii. Hadding- 
ton, 4 
Laurencekirk, parish o^ xi Kincardine^ 

128— village, 129, 135, 144 
Laurieston castle, xi. Kincardine, 279— 
property and house, 283— quarry, 89, 
289 
Laurieston, village of, iv. Kirkcudbri^t, 

187 
Laurieston, Roman remains at, viii Stir- 
ling, 1 1— village, 23 
Lauriston castle, i. Edinbuigh, 596 
Laverockhall, ironstone at, v. Ayr, 674 
Law cairn, xii. Aberdeen, 722 
Law, remains found at, vi. I^anark, 581 

— collieries, 590 
Law castle of Kilbride, ruins of, v. Ayr, 

254 
Lawiield of Roisie, xi. Forfiu*, 251 
Lawhead hill, i. Edinburgh, 436 
Lawhead hill, ii. Haddington, 29 
Lawhill of Blantyre, remains found at, vi 

Lanark, 321 
Lawhill of Craigie, v. Avr, 765 
Lawhill of Dcskford, xiu. Banff, 67 
I^awhill of Dundee, xi. Forfar, 1 & 
Lawhill of Gask, x. Perth, 336 
Lawhill of Kilbride, v. Ayr, 244 
LawhUl of Kirkurd, iii Peebles, 129 
Lawhill of Marytoun, xi For&r, 115 
Lawhill of Rayne, xii Aberdeen, 424 
Lawhill of Symington, v. Ayr, 566 
Lawhill of Tannadyce, xi. For&r, 199 
Lawhill of Torbolton, remains found at, 

v. Ayr, 754 
Lawknoll of Enrol, x. Perth, 386 
Law know of Camock, ix. Fife, 706 
Law knowe 6f Kilbride, cairo at, vi La- 

nark, 891 
Lawmuircollierie8,viiiDunbarton,38,240 
Lawmuir house, vi. Lanark, 892 
Lawrence hill, xi. Forfar, 235 
Ijawrence road, xii Aberdeen, 731 
Lawrie^ well, iii Roxburgh, 454 
liAws, plantations on, ii Berwick, 167— 

remains found at, 172 
Laws hill, Monifieth, remains on, xi For- 
far, 545 
Laws house, xi. For&r, 548 



GSKEBAL INDSZ. 



Ixxxix 



Lawitoii well, iii. RoKbuij^, 442 
LawyeiBy Ben, x. Perth, 453, 704 — ^houie, 

741 
Lozary bnrn, xiv. Roas, 160, 161 
Lozdale village, xiv. Roes, 136 — water, 

120 
lAxfirth voe, xv. Shetland, 68 
Laxford loch, xv. Sutherland, 119, 217 

—water, 120,216 
Lazaretto at Dunoon, vii. Argyle, 611 
Leabidh Tholaich, ruins of, xv. Suther- 
land, 94 
Leachdan water, vii. Argyle, 675 
Leacht hill, xiii. Banff, 298 
Leadhillfi, the, vi. Lanark, 497— village, 

328, 332, 333, 337— minee, 335 
Leader, vale of the, ii. Berwick, 2, 88 — 

water, 1, 2, 19, 89, 347, 349, 366, iii. 

Roxburgh, 51, 53, 460 
Leadgowan farm, xiv. Ross, 241 
Leadlaw hill, iii. Peebles, 156 
Leadlich hill, xii. Aberdeen, 957 
Leadloch bum, vi. Lanark, 608 
Lear Elian isle, vii. Aigyle, 259 
Lealdie, iron ore at, xiv. Ross, 336 
Leamham loch, vii. Argyle, 676 
Leam-na-clavan loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Lean glen, vii. Argyle, 572 
Leap hill, iii. Roxburgh, 427 
Leap linns of Ale, the, iii. Roxbursh, 270 
Leapsteal, Pictish remains at, iiL Rox- 
burgh, 433 
Leamey hill, xiL Aberdeen, 831— house, 

833 
Leaside, tree at, x. Perth, 380 
Leask church, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 

593— house, 594 
Leathers castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 

15 
Leckie,glen of, viii. Stirling, 50 — bum, 

51 — house, 53,59 — property, 5 J 
Lecropt, parish of, x. Perth, 1160. 
Lecture stane, the, ix. Kinroas, 41 
Lcdard, cascade at, x. Perth, 1 1 52 
Ledbcg, limestone at, XV. Sutherland, 108, 

113 
Ledcrieff, &rm of, xi. Forfitr, 456, 457 
I..edi, Ben, x. Perth, 349 
Lednathy water, xi. Forfiu*, 165 
Lcdnock water, x. Perth, 580'— glen, 

678 
Lee loch, v. Ayr, 743 
Lee loch and water, xi For£ur, 192 
Lee, barony of, vi. Lanark, 577 — house, 8, 

18, 957 — law, 565— moor, 1 — penny, 

1 6 — plantations, 9 — water, 575 
Lee loch, xiii. Nairn, 8 
Lee pen hill, iii. Peebles, 26 
Lectown, village of, x. Perth, 395 
Leedhill, Roman camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 

601 
Leek isle, vii. Argyle, 259 
Lecmuir limcworks, vi. Lanark, 569 — 

ironstone, 571 
Lees house, ii. Berwick, 2U8 

VOL. XV. 



Leet, mineral spring at, ii. Berwick, 52— 

bog, 53— water, 166, 188, 200, 366 
Leethead, coffins found at, ii. Berwick, 171 
Leetside, camp at, ii. Berwick, 171 
Legbrannock collieries and village, vL La- 
nark, 793 
Legerwood, parish of, ii. Berwick, 347— 

hill, 350 — camp on, 353 
Leggan loch, viiL Stirling, 264 
L^land quarry, xL For&r, 540 
Leichtown house, x. Perth, 1108 
Leight Alpine castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 315 
LeinhalU ancient parish and church of, Vu 

Berwick, 199 
Lcinzie, barony of, viii. Dunbarton, 140 
Leith, town of, i. Edinburgh, 760— water, 

108, 206, 358, 434, 435, 545, 555, 615 
Leithen water, iii. Peebles, 24 
Leith field house, xi. Kincardine, 72 
Leithhead water, i. Edinburgh, 358, 545 
Leitholm, chapel at, iL Berwick, 50 — 

peel, ruins of, 58 — village, 60 
Leiven loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Lemno water, xl Forfar, 293, 597, 626 
Lempitlaw hill, iii Roxburgh, 235— bar 

rony and village, 237, 239 
Lendal water, v. Avr, 395, 528 
Leney hills, x. Perth, 350— pass, 351 
Lennclchu quarry, ii. Berwick, 201 — 

house, 208 
Lennox house, v. Ayr, 734 
Lennox castle, viii. Stirling, 236, 244 — 

hills, 48, 49, 72, 289, 304— mill, 248, 

254 
Lennox tower, i Edii^burgh, 546 
Lennoxlove house, ii. Haddington, 5 
Lennoxtown, village of, viii. Stirling, 237, 

243, 258 
Lenoch water, xiii. Elgin, 30 
Lentram house, xiv. Inverness, 460 
Lenturk, ruins of church and castle at, 

xii Aberdeen, 1122 
Lenwick church, luins of, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 54 
Leny hill, i. Edinburgh, 591, 593 
Lenzie, district of, viii. I)un1>arton, 173 
Leochel bum, xii Abcnleen, 485, 486, 

491, 1102, 1105— hill, 485 
Leochel and Cushnie, united parishes of, 

xii Aberdeen, 1102 
- Leod castle, xiv. Roen, 255 
Leod mount, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Leogh hamlet, xv. Shetland, 95 
Leothaid mount, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Lepers' house, Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 112 
Lerwick, parish of, xv. Shetland, 1 — 

town, 3, 145 
Leslie, parish of, xii Aberdeen, 1019— 

house, ruins of, 1022 
Leslie, parish of, ix. Fife, 1 1 1 — green, 115 

—house, 112, 113, 116— village, 112, 

113,116 
Lesmahagow, parish of, vi Lanark, 30 
Lesniore castle, ruins of, xii. Al>erdeen, 

1016 

m 



xc 



OENEBAL INDEX. 






Leamurdie, ruins of church at, xiii. Banff, 

197— cottage, ih, 198— distillery, 198 
Lcssendrum houDC, xii. Aberdeen, 304 
Lew Helvel hill, xiv. Inverness, 323 
J.«eaBudden or St Bowsclls, parish of, iii. 

Roxburgh, 104— place, ruins of^ 1 OS- 
village, 104, 110, ii. Berwick, 31 
Leswalt, parish of, iv. Wigton, 123 
Letham, village of, ix. Fife, 44 — hill, 

Druidical remains on, 239 
Letham, granite at, xi. For&r, 145 — 

Hpinning-mill, 50 1 — nllagc, 151, 155 — 

hall, 154 
I/etham house, ii. lladdingt<m, 6 
Ijotham den, remains at, xi. Forfar, 147 

—mill, 150 
Letham Grange house, xi. Forfer, 496 
Lethan colliery, ix. Fife, 835 
Lethangie, trees at, ix. Kinross, 8, lb* 
Lethen port, xi Kincardine, 178, 184, 

189 
Lethen bum, xiii. Nairn, 27 — house, 13^ 

plantations, 9, 29 
liethcnbar, organic remains at, xiii. Nairn, 

27 — Druidical circle on, 32 
Lethendy church, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 

822 
Lethendy, Celtic fort at, x. Perth, 272— 

tower, ruins of, 1002 
Lethendv and Kin loch, united parishes 

of, X. 'Perth, 1001 
Lctliington house, ii. Haddington, 5 
Lethnot church, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 445 
Lcthiiot and Navar, united parishes of, 

xi. Forfar, 687 
Letterbeg cairn, xi. Kincardine, 237 
Letterchoil, district of, xiv. Ross, 182 
Lcttcrewe, property of, xiv. Ross, 93 
Lctterfeam, district of, xiv. Ross, 182, 

195— Pictish remains at, 194 
Lettcrfinlay house, xiv. Inverness, 511 
Lettertourie quarry, xiii. Banff, 248 — 

woods, &c. 249 — house, 253, 255 
Lettershaws, coal at, vi. Lanark, 500 
Lettir loch, x. Perth, 1097 
Lcuchars house, xiii. Elgin, 46 
Leuchars, parish of,ix. Fife, 217— church, 

restoration and description of, 220 — 

ciiatle, r'iins of, 223— village, 224, 227 
Leucher bum, xiL Aberdeen, 105 
Leuchic house, ii. Haddington, 335 
Lcuchnie, plantations at, ii. Haddington, 

323 
Leukhall,coin8 found at, iii. Roxburgh, 13 
Leurary loch, xv. Ciiithness, 70 
Leutter hamlet, xv. Shetland. 95 
Leven water, vii. Argvle, 231 
Leven water, v. Bute, 42 
Leven water, vii. Dunbarton, 1,2, 10, 11, 

«3, 221, 233 
Leven, town of, ix. Fife, 269, 273 — water, 

111,112,195 
Leven, loch, xiv. Inverness, 118 
Lt'ven loch, ix. Kinross, 1, 2, 31, 53, 54, 

7-2— iHlands in, 3— water, 70 



Leven house, viL Renfrew, 526 
I^ievenbank printworks, viii. Dunbarton, 

224 
Levenfield bleachfield, viii Dunbarton, 

224 
Levenstrath house, vii. Argyle, 430 
Levem water, vii Renfrew, 34, 147, 309, 

316, 537— 7Uoa<f i€Kra pariah of, 135, 

227, 239 
Levemshields, remains found at, vii. Ren- 
frew, 150 
Lewis, island of, xiv. Inverness, 155, Roti^ 

115, 141, 151, 157— the mills of, 164 
Ley, ruins of chapel at, xii. Aberdeen, 417 
Leys bursaries, the, xii Aberdeen, 1 150 
Leys, Dmidical circle at, xiv. Invemesii, 

15 — castle, 453— hills, 6 — moor, 514 — 

property, 445 
Leys loch, xi Kincardine, 325, 327^- 

plantations, 333 — property, 325, 327 
Ley ton hill, xii. Aberdeen, 242 
Lhanbryd, annexed parish of, xiii Elgin, 

29— miU, 30 
Liath fort, ruins of, xiv. InvemcflB, 266 
Liath hill, x.* Perth, 559 
Libberton moor, vi Lanark, 45 
Libberton and Quothqulian, united pa- 
rishes of^ vi. Lanark, 41 
Liberton, pariah of^ i Edinburgh, 1 
Libo loch, v. Ayr, 290, 572, vii Renfrew, 

309, 316 
Lichart water, xiv. Ross, 400 
Licklyhead house, xii Aberdeen, 693, 694 
Lickprivick castle, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 

891 
Liddel water, iii Roxburgh, 440,441, 461, 

iv. Dumfries, 483, 484 
Liddesdale, iii. Roxburgh, 440, 461 
Liddlebiuik colliery, iii Roxburgh, 442 
Licchestown, remains at, xiii Banfl^ 66 
Lietchfield loch, xiv. Inverness, 463 
Liff, quarries at, xi. Forfar, 571 
LifF and Beiivie, united parishes of, xi. 

Forfar, 568 
Liggar's stane, the, xii. Aberdeen, 569 
Ligh, Ben, xiv. Inverness, 218 
Light bum, village of, vi I^anark, 481 
Light water bum, viii Stirhng, 4 
Lilliard's edge, iii. Roxburgli, 119 
Lilliard's tomb, iii. Roxbui*gh, 244 
Lilliesleaf, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 24 — 

village, 25, 27 
Lillybum printfield, viii. Stirling, 255 
Lily loch, xi Kincardine, 245 
Lily loch, vi Lanark, 627 
Liniecraigs house, vii Argj'le, 458 
Liniefield house, i. Edinburgh, 306 
Liniekilnedge limcworks, iii Roxburgh, 

•210 
Limekilns, bay of, ix. Fife, 824 — \illage 

and harbour, 823, 874, 896 
Limekilns, Roman cement found at, ri. 

Limark, 882— house, 892 
Linunerfield house, vi. Lanark, 1(19 
Lina, rocks of, xv. Orkney, 103 



GENERAL INDEX. 



XCl 



Lincluden abbey, ruins and history of, 

iv. Kirkcudbright, 232 
Lindean, annexed parish of, iii. Selkirk, 

11 
Lindertis hills, xi. Forfar, 672— house, 668 
Lindores, abbey of, ix. Fife, 61, 62, 64— 
battle of, 62--house, i6.— loch, 28, 49 
Lindores, Northern abbey of, xii. Aber- 
deen, 167, 168, 174 
Lindsay tower, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 331 
Lindsay lands, ruins of fort at, vi. Lanark, 

363 
Lindston loch, v. Ayr, 274 — remains 

found at, 279 
Line loch, vii. Argyle, 64 
Linga isle, vii. Argyle, 340 
Liiiga sound, xv. Orkney, 157 
Lingafiold hill, xv. Orkney, 42 
Lingay isle and anchorage, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 162 
Lingholm isle, xv. Orkney, 1 57 
Linglass castle, ruins of, xv. Caithness, 

138 
Lingo, soil at, ix. Fife, 914 
Lingore linn bum, vi. Ijanark, 608 
Linhope hill, iii. Roxburgh, 428 
Linhouse house, i. Edinburgh, 371 — 

water, 358, 434, 438 
Linket bay, xv. Orkney, 1 04 
links ne8s,xv. Orkney, 157 
Links of Arduthie, village of, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 262 
Links of Old Tain, the, xv. Caithness, 62 
Linksfield, limestone at, xiiL Elgin, 257 
Linktown of Abbotshall, the, ix. Fife, 159 
Link wood distillery, xiii. Elgin, 31 
Linlathen, cairn at, xi. Forfiu*, 546— 

house, 548 
Linlithgow, parish of, ii. Linlithgow, 169 
—loch, 170— town and castle, 171, 181 
—palace, 176 
Linlithgow bridge, viii. Stirling, 211— vil- 
lage of, iL Linlithgow, 180--battle of, 
172 
Linlithgowshire, summary of statistics of, 

ii. Linlithgow, 189 
Linn, Roman remains at, v. Ayr, 220 — 

village, 221 
Linn, the, a fall of the Esk, i. Edinbui^h, 

337 
Linn, irontttonc at, vii. Renfrew, 497— 

property, 500 
Linn of Canipsey, x. Perth, 1 168 
Linn of Dee, xii' Aberdeen, 648 
Linn of Deskfonl, xiii. Ranff, 64 
Linn of Livet, xiii. Banff, 125 
Linn of Mucharsay, x. Perth, 1173 
Linn of Muick, xii. Aberdeen, 776 
Linn of Ruthrie, xiii. Banff, 114 
Liimburn house, i. Edinburgh, 442 
Linndean cascade, i. Edinburgh, 535 
Linne loch, xiv. Inverness, 118 
Linnhe water, viii. Dunbarton, 96, 234 
Linnmill bum, ii. Linlithgow, 19— cas- 
cade on, 92 



Linqure, rise of the Brioch at, ii. Linlith- 
gow, 76 
Linross, farm of, xi. Forfar, 683 
Linsayston, ruins of chapel at, v. Ayr, 496 
Linshart house, xii Aberdeen, 862 
Lintalce, caves at, iii Roxburgh, 12 — 

house, 14 
Lintbrae linieworks, v. Ayr, 729 
Linthill house, ii. Berwick, 324, 320, iii. 

Roxburgh, 39 
Linton, village of, ii. Haddington, 18, 22 

—linn, 19 
Linton, West, parish of, iii. Peebles, lo5>— 

village, 158, 161 — bog, dniina^e of^ 

165 
Linton, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 145— 

hill, ib. 146— loch, ib. 448, 449, 450— 

tower, ruins of, 161 — village, 153 
Lintrathen, parish o^ xi. Forfar, 636 — 

loch, ib, 
Lintrose, cave at, xi. ForfEU*, 643 — house, 

644 
Linwood, village of, vii. Renfrew, 371, 

378— mills, 377 
Lion, rock called the, v. Bute, 71 
Lions" den, the, viii. Stirling, 404 
Lipreck bum, ii. Bexwick, 56 
Lismore isle, vii. Argyle, 225 
Lismore and Appin, unitcil parishes of, 

vii. Argjle, 223 
Listening stone, the, xiv. Inverness, 449 
Liston, mins of tower of, i. Edinburgh, 

138 
Listonshields, farm of, i. Edinburgh, 434 
ythean-a-chaffhill, x. Perth, 345 
Lithtillum loch, H. Berwick, 200 
Litic, marl bed at, xiii. Nairn, 8 
Little Ferry, the, xv. Sutherland, 1, 2, 

24, 41, 215— battle at, 33 
Little Ileugh, the, iii. Roxburgh, 379 
Little Loch, Glenshiel, xiv. Ross, 185 
Little Loch, Meams, viL Renfrew, 516 
Little Strath of Lochbroom, xiv. Ross, 74 
Little Brechin, village of, xi. Forfar, 1 34 
Little Broom bum and loch, xiv. Ross, 74 
Little Colonsav isle, vii. Ai^le, 340, 345, 

361 
Little Cumbrae isle, v. Bute, 69, Ayr, 243, 

244, 269— lighthouse, 270 
Little Dalton, vale of, iv. Dumfries, 371 
Littledean tower, ruins of, iii. Roxbui^h, 

119 
Little Dumfin mills, viii. Dunbarton, 161 
Little Dunkeld, parish of, x. Perth, 1005 
Little France, village of, i. Edinburgh, 7 
Littleflill, improvements of, vi. Lanark, 

83r 
LittleTicney, tumulus at, x. Perth, 356 

Little Mill, Arran, school at, v. Bute, 67 

Little Mill distillcrv, &c. viii. Dunbarton» 

29 
Littlefnilstick, pool called, xiv. Ross, 383 
Little ^ebbock rock, v. Ayr, 462 
Little Reattie, improvements at, xiii. 

Banff, 235 



XCll 



GENEBAL INDEX. 



Little Ross isle and lighthouse, iv. Kirk- 
. ' cudbright, 31, 48 

Little Rysay isle, xv. Orkney, 78 

Little Sourby church, ruins of, ir. Wigton, 
27 

Little Thaim rock, ii. Berwick, 215 

Littlewood park house, xii. Aberdeen, 450 

Liver water, viL Argyle, 478 

Livet water, xiii. Banff, 124,125— linn,l 25 

Livingston, parish of^ ii. Linlithgow, 115 
peel and house, 117— village, 119 

Livingstones Ford, ii. Haddington, 209 

Livingstone, property of^ viii. Stirling, 138 

Lliabh Goail hill, vii. Argyle, 257 

Loanhead, village of, i. Edinburgh, 335 

Loanhead hill, n. Lanark, 835 

Loanhead bleachfield, vii, Renfrew, 1 02 

Loanhead, Denny, village of, viii. Stirling, 
132, 133 

Loansbridge, mineral spring at, v. AyVf 
212 

Loch bay, xiv. Inverness, 323, 326 

Loch burn of Linlithgow, ii Linlithgow, 1 7 

Lochaber, district of, xiv. Invemessi, 1 17, 
511 

Loch-a-Bhcalich, xiv. Ross, 172 

Loch-a-Bhraoin, xiv. Ross, 72 

Lochachall, xiv. Ross, 74 

Lochachilty, xiv. Ross, 236 — Druidical 
remains at, 237 

Lochnacloich, xiv. Ross, 264 

Lochadigo, xiv. Ross, 160 

Lochaffric, xiv. Inverness, 363, 484, 490 

Lochainort, see Loch Eynort 

Lochulsh, XV. Sutherland, 214 

Lochalin, vii. Arg}ie, 16^ — quarries, 170 
— harbour and village, 189, 190 

Lochalsh, xiv. Ross, 107, 184 — parish of, 
260 

Lochaltanfcam, xv. Sutherland, 137 

Lochalvie, xiv. Inverness, 83 
Lochandow, vii. Argyle, 517 
Lochandu, xiv. Inverness, 89 
Lochandunty, xiv. Inverness, 380 
Lochaneilean, xiii Elgin, 1 37, 1 38— castle, 

ruins of, 137, 139, 141 
Lochan Falloch, x. Perth, 1096, 1097 
Lochanganuh, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 
Lochans, \illage of, iv. Wigton, 131, 153 
Lochantuirck, x. Perth, 786 
Lochanuaine, xii. Aberdeen, 1071 
Lochor moss, iv. Dumfries, 3, 4, 17, 30, 
40, 218, 220, 442, 568— water, 3, 29, 
40,218,349,443 
Lochar iMiter, vi. Lanark, 302 
Locharicliny, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 ^ 
Locharkaig, xiv. Inverness, 118 — ilAssion 

of, 511 i 

Lochamizort, xiv. Inverness, 323 * 
Lochascaig, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Loch Assynt, xv. Sutherland, 107 
Lochavich, vii. Argyle, 373 
Lochavon, xiii. liimtf, 297 
Lochawe, vii. Argyle, 85, 372 
Lochay glen, vii Argyle, 84 






Lochay water, x, Perth, 455, 706, 1079, 

1080— glen, 702, 1073 
Lochbeannached, xv. Sutherland, 48 
Loch Beauly, xiv. Inverness, 2, 8 
liochbee, xiv. Inverness, 185 
Lochbeinevean, xiv. Invemeaa, 363 
Lochbeinnemhian, xiv. Invemesii, 484, 

490 
Lochbeg, xiv. Inverness, 298 
Lochbhruach, xiii Elgin, 125 
Lochboarlan, xiv. Ross, 43 
Lochboisdale, xiv. InvemeflS, 183 195 - 
Lochborley, xv. Sutherland, 87 
Loch Braeaidale, xiv. Invemees^ 296* 323 
Loch Braden, v. Ayr, 334 
Loch Brany, xi Forfiur, 436 
Lochbroom, parish o^ xiv. Roas, 72— 4is- 

trict of, 74 
Lochbrown, v. Ayr, 159, 766 
Lochbrora, xv. Sutherhmd, 149, 150, 217 

— remains at, 155 
Lochbruiach, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Lochbuie, xv. Sutherland, 1 7 
Lochbuilg, xiii Banff, 298 
Lochbunachton, xiv. Invemets, 516 
Lochbuy bay, vii Argyle, 281^-caiUe, 287 

— cave at, 279 — house, 289 
Loch Cailm, xv. Caithness, 15 
Lochcalva, xv. Sutherland, 120 
Loch Caolisport, vii Argyle, 259 
Lochcamabattao, xiv. Invemesi, 491 
Lochcarron, parish of, xiv. Ross, 107^^' 

loch, ib. 
Lochcarroy, xiv. Inverness, 323, 326 
Lochchamac, xiv. Ross, 264 
Ix)chchaman, xiv. Inverness, 1 95 
Lochchorrh, xiv. Ross, 420 
Lochchroi^, xiv. Ross, 236 
Lochclachan, xiv. Inverness, 515 
Lochclachan, xiii. Nairn, 44 
Lochcluonie, xiv. Ross, 182, 187 
Ix>chcoinneag, xiv. Ross, 264 
Lochcoire, xiv. Inverness, 515 
Lochcoimafeam, xv. Sutherland, 68 
Lochcoiruisg, xiv. Inverness, 296, 301 
Lochconnell, iv. Wigton, 103 
Lochcomamaugh, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Lochcorr, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Loch cote hills, ii. Linlithgow, 50 — bouse, 

51— loch, 36 
Loch Coulalt, xiii. Elgin, 62 
Loch Coulter, viii Stirling, 307, 313 
Loch Craggie, xv. Sutherland, 48, 169 
Lochcraig hill, iv. Dumfries, 102, 104 
Lochcraspul, xv. Sutherland, 87 
Lochcuillie, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Lochdnmf, xiv. Ross, 100 
Lochden bay, vii Argvle, 281 
Lochdews, xi. Kincardine, 245 
Lochdhu, V. Bute, 99 
Lochdhu, XV. Caithness, 123 
Lochdinard, xv. Sutherland, 87 
Lochdiru, xv. Sutherland, 169 
Loch Dochart castle, ruins ot, x. Pertk^ 
1088 



OEKBRAL INDEX. 



XClll 



Loch Doon, v. Ayr, 308, 309, 333, 334— 

castle, ruins of, 337 
Loch Domal, v. Ayr, 529 
Lochdowal, xiv. Ross, 107 
Lochdruidibc^, xiv. Inverness, 185 
Lochduich, xiv. Ross, 170, 181, 182, 185 

—ferry, Inveniess, 140 
Lochduntelchaig, xiv. Inverness, 515 
Lochdunvegan, xiv. Inverness, 323, 325 
Lochduthick, xiv. Ross, 181 
Locheck, vii. Argyle, 104, 571, 578 
Lochee, village of, xL For&r, 40, 568, 
578, 582 — church and quoad sacra 
parish, 568, 587 — quarries, 585 — 
schools, 588 
Locheil, xiv. Inverness, 118 
* Locheishart, xiv. Inverness, 317 
Lochend, Coylton, v. Ayr, 650 
Lochend, Dunfermline, ix. Fife, 829 
Loehend, Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 619 
Lochend, Kirkcudbright, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 246 
Lochend, Kirkliston, battle at, i. Edin- 
burgh, 137 
Lochend, Monkland, vi. J<anark, 642 
Lochend house, ii. Haddington, 80 
Lochennich, xiii Elgin, 137, 138 
Locher water, vii. Renfrew, 357 
Loch Eriboll, xv. Sutherland, 83, 85, 87 
Loch Ericht, xiv. Inverness, 420 
Loch Erisort, xiv. Roas, 158, 159 
Loch Errochd, xiv. Inverness, 65 
Loch Esk, xi. Forfar, 199, 436 
Lochewe, xiv. Ross, 92 
Locheye, xiv. Ross, 360 
Loch Eynort, xiv. Inverness, 183, 195, 

296 
Loch&d, V. Bute, 82, 84, 99 
Loch&nnich, xiv. Ross, 236 
Lochfell hill, iii Selkirk, 60, iv. Dumfries, 

102,104, 138,398 
Lochfergus, v. Ayr, 6, 650 
Lochfergiis castle, ruins of, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 20 
Loch Fewn, xv. Sutherland, 213 
Lochfine, vu. Argyle, 2, 5, 33, 104, 677, 

678, 691, 715 
Loch Finlas, v. Ayr, 334 
Loch Flemington, xiv. Inverness, 380 
Loch Follart, xiv. Inverness, 323 
Lochfoot, village of,iv. Kirkcudbright, 288 
Lochfraochie, x. Perth, 455 
Loch Oamhuinn, xiiL Elgin, 137, 138 
Lochgarbhreachd, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Lochgate, vi. Lanark, 303 
LochgeUy hill, ix. Fife, 166— nllage, ib. 

170— coUieries, 170 
Lochgilphead, village of, viL Arg^-le, 275, 

688~church, 695 
Lochglass, xiv. Ross, 313 
Loch Glassletter, xiv. Ross, 172 
Loch Olencul, xv. Sutherland, 121 
Loch Glendhu, xv. Sutherland, 119, 120, 

121 
Loch glow, ix, Kinroi0|39 



Loch Ooil, vii. Argyle, 702, viii. Dunbar- 

ton, 85 
Lochgoilhead, village oC^ vii. Argyle, 717 
Lochgoilhead and Kilmorich, united pa- 
rishes of, vii Argyle, 701, 711 
Lochgoin, property of, v. Ayr, 777 
Lochgorm, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Lochgorm, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Lochgorum, vii. Argyle, 645 
Lochgour, XT. Sutherland, 17 
Loch Griam, xv. Sutherland, 216 
Lochgrieshemish, xiv. Inverness, 323, 325' 
Lochgrimshadir, xiv. Ross, 159 
Lochgrog, vi. Lanark, 400 
Loch Horn, xv. Sutherland, 25 
Loch Hope, xv. Sutherland, 83, 87, 217 
Loch Houm, xiv. Inverness, 129, 525 
Lochhouse tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 

127 — craig, quarry, 135 
Lochiel, plantations at, xiv. Inverness, 120 
Lochinbreck, spring at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

179 
Lochinch, xiv. Inverness, 83 
Lochinchard, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Lochindaal, vii Argyle, 645 
Lochindaal, xiv. Inverness, 317 
Lochindorb, xiii. Elgin, 182, 258, xiv. In- 
verness, 105, 433— castle, ruins and 
history of, xiii Elgin, 183, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 437 
Lochineghtac, xiv. Inverness, 463, 467 
Lochinord, xiv. Inverness, 219 
Lochinruar, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Lochintallan, vii. Argyle, 661 
Lochinvar bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 369 — 

castle, ruins of, 370 — loch, w. 
Lochinver, xv. Sutherland, ^08 — village, 

114— chapel, 115 
Loch lorsa, v. Bute, 42 
Loch Ishour, xv. Sutherland, 87 
Loch Katrine, viii. Stirling, 89 
Loch Killin, xiv. Ross, 236 
Loch Kinellan, xiv. Ross, 236 
Loch Knock bay, vii. Argyle, 660 
Lochlaggan, v. Ayr, 395 
Lochlaggan, xiv. Inverness, 418, 420, 505 
Lochlaggan, xv. Sutherland, 1 7 
Loch Lahich, vii Argyle, 302 
Lochlaoghall, xv. Sutherland, 169 
Lochlaro, xv. Sutherland, 1 7 
Loch Laxford, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Lochleamnaclavan, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Lochlee, residence of Bums at, v. Ayr, 

757— loch, 743 
Lochlee, xi Forfar, 192 — parish of 191 
Lochlee, xiii. Naim, 8 
Lochlcggan, viii. Stirling, 264 
Lochleiven, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Lochlctter house, xiv. Inverness, 38 
Lochleven, xiv. Invemess, 118 
Lochleven, ix. Kinross, 1, 2, 31, 53, S4, 
72— ishinds in, 3— castle, 3, 12, 73— 
keys of^ i. Edinbui^ 84 
Lochlibo, v. Ayr, 290, 572, vii Renfrew^ 
309, 31$ 



XCIV 



QESTEBAL IHDEX. 



LochUn hill, x, Perth, 191 
Lochlin castle, ruiiiB of, xIt. Robs, 361 
Loch Linne, xiv. Inverness, 118 
Loch Lochy, xiv. Inverness, 1 19 
Loch Lomond, viii. Dimbarton, 94, 95, 
96, 155, 156, 157, 232, Stirling, 89, 90 
•Loch Long, vii. Aigylc, 702, viii. Ihin- 
bartQn, 66, 70, 95, 96, 103, 109, 155, 
158, 234 
Loch Long, Lundie, xL For&r, 456 
Loch Long, Neilston, vii. Renfi^w, 316 
Loch Long, Kintail, xiv. Rqss, 170, 185 
Loch Loyal, XV. Sutherland^ 69, 217 
Lochluag, X. Perth, 252 
Loch Lubnaig, x. Perth, 345, 350 
Loch Luichart, xiv. Ross, 236 
Lochluin, xiv. Ross, 187 
Lochlundie, xv. Sutherland, 25 
Loch Lyon, x. Perth, 530 
Loch Mabeiry, v. Ayr, 529 
Lochmaben, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 377 
— barony, 887 — burgh, 391 — castles, 
ruins of, 383— stone, 267 
Lochmaddy, xiv. Inverness, 162 
Lochmaedie, xv. Sutherland, 169 
Lochmalonie house, ix. Fife, 538— pro- 
perty, 551 
Lochmaree, xiv. Ross, 91, 334 
Lochmeikly, xiv. Inverness, 38 
Lochmcrkiand, xv. Sutherland, 216 
Lochmiaghailt, xiv. Inverness, 246 
Lochmigdale, xv. Sutherland, 17 
Lochmoir, xv. Sutherland, 120, 122 
I.ochmonar, xiv. Inverness, 363 
Lochmonar, xv. Sutherland, 72 
Lochmore, xv. Caithness, 69 — ruins of 

castle at, 72 
Lochmore, xv. Sutherland, 216 
Loch Morlich, xiii. Elgin, 1 38 
Loch Morrcn, xiv. Inverness, 525 
Loch Mov, xiii. Nairn, 44, xiv. Inverness, 

98, lOO' 
Loch Muck, V. Ayr, 310 
Loch Muilie, xiv. Inverness, 363* 496 
Lochniuire, xiv. Koss, 334 — ruins of cha- 
pel at, 343 
Lochnaho, xiii. Elgin, 258 
Lochnnclur, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 
Lochnacuen, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 
Lochnagana, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Lochnagar mount, xii. Aberdeen, 647, 

773 
Lochnaluire, xiv. Inverness, 484, 490 
Lochnnmbreacdeai^, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Lochnamoin, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 
Lochnanean, x. Perth, 786 
Lochnangaul, vii. Arg}'le, 300, 33 J) 
Lochnanuamh, vii. Argyle, 122— caves 

at, 128 
Lochnatjcalg, xiv. Ross, 74 
Lochnaver, xv. Sutherland, 68 
Lochnaw, iv. Wigton, 125 — castle, 124, 

125, 126 
Lochneattie, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Lochnell, vii« Argyle, 516^>hou0e, 501 



Loch Ness, xiv. Inverness, 1, 3, 7, 37, SA, 

51, 52, 53, 373 
Lochnevis, xiv. Inverness, 129, 525 
Lochnoir, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Lochoich, xiv. Inverness, 504 
Lochore, drainage of, ix. Fife, 447 — plan- 
tations on, 446 
Lochoscar, vii. Arg}'le, 229 
Lochouan, x. Perth, 726 
Lochpark, xiii. Banff, 214 
Loch Pata\ieg, xiv. Ross, 264 
Loch Poltiel, xiv. Inverness, 323, 326 
Loch Portree, xiv. Inverness, 218, 219 
Lochranza bay, harbour, and chapel, v. 
Bute, 9, 33, 4 1 , 43— castle, ruins of, 20, 
43,55 
Lochrenny, moat at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

370 
Loch Resart, xiv. Ross, 152 
Lochridge, limestone, &.c. at, v. Ayr, 291, 

729 
Loch Roag, xiv. Ross, 151, 152, 155 
Lochruthven, xiv. Inverness, 515 
Lochrutton, parish of^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 

286 
Lochryan, iv. Wigton, 80, 81, 92, 95, 

102, 118, 123— house, 83 
Lochrynie, xv. Sutherland, 216 
Lochs, parish of, xiv. Ross, 1 57— district 

of, 99 
Lochscolpeg, Danish remains at, xiv. In- 
verness, 170 
Loch Scye, xv. Caithness, 15 
Loch Seaforth, xiv. Ross, 157, 159 
Lochsheil, xiv. Ross, 182 
Lochshell, xiv. Ross, 159 
Lochshelliva, xiv. Inverness, 195 
Lochshiel, xiv. Inverness, 525 
Lochshin, xv. Sutherland, 58, 215 
Lochshurery, xv. Caithness, 15 
Lochsianta, xiv. Inverness, 245 
Lochside, village of, xi. Kincardine, 285 
Lochside house, vii. Renfrew, 76 
Loch Skavaig, xiv. Inverness, 296 
Loch Skene, iv. Dumfries, 107 
Loch Skipport, xiv. InvemeHS, 182, 183^ 

195 
Loch Slam, xv. Sutherland, 169 
Loch Sluppen, xiv. Inverness, 302 
Loch Sleitill, xv. Caithness, 15 
Loch Sligichan, xiv. Inverness, 218, 219 
Loch Sloy, viii. Dunbarton, 234 
Lochsmaddy, iv. Kirkcudbright, 192 
Loch Snizort, xiv. Inverness, 237, 287,289 
Loch Spey, xiv. Inverness, 421 
Loch Spy nie, drainage of; xiii. Elgin, 29, 33 
Loch Stac, XV. Sutherland, 120, 122, 217 
Loch Strathy, xv. Sutherland, 68, 217 
Loch Sunart xiv. Inverness, 526 
Loch Swen, vii. .\rgyle, 632 
Loch Tanna, v. Bute, 42 
Loch Tay, x. Perth, 453, 454, 705, 1079 

—isle of, 465 
Lochteagus, vii. Argyle, 168— vitrified 
fort, 183 



OBKESAL IKDEZ. 



XCV 



Loch Thom, v. Ayr, 804 

Loch Tolla, vii Aigyle, 85 

Lochton, V. Ayr, 395 

Lochton hills, x. Perth, 406 — houae, 

408 
Loch Torriden, xiv. Ross, 90 
Lochtower castle, ruins of^ iii Roxburgh, 

164 
Lochtreig, xiv. Inverness, 505 
Lochtrevie, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Loch Trialivall, xiv. Ross, 159 
Loch Trudcrscaig, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Loch Tubemach, xv. Sutherland, 151 
Lochty water, xiii. Elgin, 30 
Lochty water, ix. Fife, 128, 195— bleach- 
field, 676 
Lochuisgava, xiv. Inverness, 195 
Lochure, x. Perth, 1080 
Lochure, xiv. Ross, 117 
Loch Urigill, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Loch IJrr, iv. Dumfries, 330 
Loch Ussie, xiv. Ross, 246 
Lochveyatie, xv. Sutherland, 213, 217 
Loch West, xiv. Inverness, 162 
Lochwharral, xi. Forfar, 436 
Lochwinnoch, v. Ayr, 571, 692 
Lochwinnoch, parish of, vii. Renfrew, 74 

—village of, 76, 97, 104 
Lochwood house, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 

155, 157 
Lochy hiU, ix. Fife, 633 
Lochy water, xiii. Banff, 297 
Lochy ferry, xiv. Inverness, 119— loch, 

i5. 504— river, 119, 123 
Lockart bum, vi. Lanark, 302 
Lockartford bridge, vi. Lanark, 24 
Lockerbie, town of, iv. Dumfries^ 210, 

455 — house, 458 
Lockhead quarry, vL Lanark, 53 
Locks, ironstone pit at, vi. Lanark, 647 
Lodder hill, iv. DumfHes, 297 
Lodge hills, antiquities at, xiii. BanS, 

225 
Logan house, Cumnock, v. Ayr, 481, 

482 
Logan bum, iv. Dumfries, 274 
Logan water, i. Edinburgh, 30, 311— 

house, 36 
Logan water, vi. Lanark, 31 
Logan, remains found at, iii. Peebles, 87 

—water, 82 
Logan harbour and mull, iv. Wigton, 201 

—house, 200, 204, 208 
Loganbank house and plantations, L Ed- 
inburgh, 313, 317 
Logan's pillar, v. Ayr, 481 
Lc^an's Raiss, property of, vii. Renfrew, 

197 
Loggie water, iL Linlithgow, 35, 36, vL 

Lanark, 242 
Logie, loch of, xii Aberdeen, 705 — origin 

of name, 799^Druidical remains at, 

709 
Logie head, xiii. Banff, 178, 179— bum, 

275 



Logie vale, xiii. Elgin, 179— -house, 186 

Lo^e, parish o^ ix. Fife, 426— house, 
857— law, 596 

Logie, suppressed parish of, xi. Forfiur, 
568— bleachfield and mills, 267— irri- 
gated meadows, 1(82- house, 164, 178 
^loch, drainage of, 163 

Logic, parish of, viii. Stirling, 214 

Logieabnond flax-miCs, x. Perth, 207— 
hills, 198,199 

Logie Brj'de, ' suppressed parish of, x. 
Perth, 443 

Logie Buchan, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 
799 

Logie Coldstonc, parish of, xii. Aberdeen. 
1070 

Logie Durao, ruins of church of, xii 
Aberdeen, 572 

Logic Easter, parish of, xiv. Ross, 53 

Logie Elphinstone house, xii. Aberdeen, 
563, 573 

Logie Montrose, annexed parish of, xL 
Forfar, 263 

Logie Newton, Druidical remains at, xii, 
Aberdeen, 287 

Logie Pert, parish o^ xi. For&r, 263 

Logierait, parish of, x. Perth, 685— Til- 
lage, 697 

Logie Wester, annexed parish o^ xiv. 
Ross, 363 

Loing water, xiv. Ross, 172 

Loinheirie bum, xii. Aberdeen, 530 

Loirston loch, xi. Kincardine, 198 — im- 
provements at, 204, 206 

Lomond hills, ix. Fife, 1 12, 656, 775, 922, 
Kinross, 70 

Lomond, Ben, viii. Dunbarton, 156, 158, 
Stirling, 90 

Lomond, loch, viiL Dunbarton, 94, 95, 
96, 155, 156, 157, 232, Stirling, 89, 90 

Lonach hill, xii. Aberdeen, 526 

Lonaig isle, viii Dunbarton, 156 

Lonan water, vii. Argyle, 516 

Lonehead, village of, viii. Stirling, 132, 
133 

Lonfem, caims at, xiv. Invcmess, 267 

Long loch, vii. Argyle, 702, viii. Dunbar- 
ton, 66, 70, 95, 96, 103, 109, 155, 158, 
234— water, viL Argyle, 704 

Long loch, xi. For&r, 456 

Long loch, vii. Renfrew, 316 

Long loch, xiv. Ross, 170, 185 

Long Annat point, ix. Fife, 827 

Longannet quarr}-, x. Perth, 868 

Long Calderwood, mineral spring at, vi. 
Lanark, 316 — house, 890 

Longcastle, suppressed parish of, iv. Wig« 
ton, 10 — loch, ib. 1 1 

Long Causeway, village of, viii. Stirling, 
231 

Long craig isle, ix. Fife, 827, 828 

Long craig pier, Queensferry, ii. Linlith- 
gow, 11 

Long Dalmahoy, ruins of chapel at, i. 
Edinburgh, 92 



XCVl 



GENERAL IH DEX. 



Longfiiugh, Roman camp at, l Edin- 
burgh, 58 
Longforgan, pariah o^ x. Perth, 405— 

village, 406, 407, 410, 418 
Longformacus house, iL Berwick, 95— > 

village, ib. 
Longformacus and Ellim, united pariihes 

of, ii. Berwick, 93 
Long Forties, bank called the, xi Kincar^ 

dine, 1 97 
Long Gallery cave, xi. Kincardine, 213 
Longhope bay, xv. Orkney, 70, 71 
Long isle, the, xiv. Inverness, 159, 203 
Longlces, village of, x. Perth, 235 
Longlone, village of, vL Lanark, 664 
Longman hill, xiiL Banff, 276— village, 

291 
Longman^ grave, the, ix. Fife, 956 
Longman^s grave, the, x. Perth, 221 
Long Newton, farm and village of, iL 

Haddington, 155, 162, 163, 165 
Long Newton, suppressed pariih o^ iii. 

Roxburgh, 242 
Longniddry house, ruins of, ii. Hadding^ 
ton, 183, 193— limeworks, 176— pro- 
perty, 179— village, 186, 193 
Longniddry Dean, coal at, iL Hadding- 
ton, 284 — Druidical remains at, 291 
Longridge, village o^ iL Linlithgow, 78 

— quarry, 81 
Longridge of Kyle hills, v. Ayr, 159 
Longshank hill, L Edinburgh, 49 
Longside, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 859 
Long Sprouston, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 

237 
Longstruther bum, iii. Peebles, 141 
Long Yester, farm and village of, iL Had- 
dington, 155, 162, 163, 165 
Lonmay, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 215 — 

castle, ruins of, 224 
Lorabank castle, ruins of, viL Renfrew, 

96 
Lord Arthur^ seat, xii. Aberdeen, 440 
Lord Auchindown^ cairn, xiiL Banfi^ 130 
Lord John's pot, xiiL Banff, 98 
Lordscaimie loch, drainage of, ix. Fife, 

786— castle, 789 
Loretto, chapel of, L F^nburgh, 270, 272 

— house, 274 
Loretto chapel, x. Perth, 66 
Lorn, braes of, vii. Argyle, 62 — agricul- 
tural association, 505 — furnace com- 
pany, 519 
Lomty bum, x. Perth, 899, 904, 1003 
Lossie water, xiii. Elgin, 1, 3, 29, 44, 83, 

95, 146, 197 
Lossiemouth, village and harbour o^ xiiL 

Elgin, 3, 19, 155, 156 
Lossit plantations, viiL Stirling, 147 
Lot*8 wife, stone called, i. Edinburgh, 201 
Loth, parish of, xv. Sutherland, 188 — 

water, 189, 193— glen, 191 
Lothbeg, rocks at, xv. Sutherland, 1 93— 

Pictish remains at, 200 
Lothian bridge, i. Edinbui^h, 195 



Loudon, pariah ot, ▼. Ayr, 834 — ^pttric, 
remains found in, 845— caaUe^ 846, 849 
—hill, 535, 835— battle of; 836— re- 
mains on, 181, vL Lanark, 303 
Louesk, lawhill at, xiL Aberdeen, 424 
Louisburgh, town of^ xt. Caithnesi, 121, 

143, 156 
Loup of Fintry, the, viiL Stirling, 39 
Loups of Kenny, the, xL For&r, 612 
Lousy liillock, the, xL Forfiur, 665 
Louther hills, the, iv. Dumfries, 297, 323, 

vi. Lanark, 327, 953 
Lovat bridge, xiv. Inverness, 870— pro- 
perty, 367, 369, 497 — ^improTements 
at, 460 
Low Auchennie, remains at, iv. Wigton, 

142 
Low bridge of Doon, the, â–¼. Ayr, 9 
Low Chapelton, remains at, v. Ayr, 740 
Low Church parish, Paisley, viL Renfrew, 

226, 237 
Lower hill, xL For&r, 692 — house, 696-— 
loch, 146— marsh, 384— moor, camp 
at, 694 
Lower Banton, village of, viiL Stirling 

159 
Jjower Coats, ironstone at, vL Lanark, 647 
Lower Kilmorack Mis, xiv. Inverness 

489 
Lower Laigo, village of; ix. Fife, 436, 

442 
Lowes, loch of the, iii. Selkirk, 36, 60 
Low Green of Ayr, v. Ayr, 9 
Lowhere water, vi. Lanark, 302 
Low Millbum collier}', vi. Lanark, 724 
Lownie, village of, xL Forfiur, 152 
Low Orbiston, village of, vi. Lanark, 793 
Lowran hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 108 
Lowrie's Know, ix. Fife, 106 
Low's wark, x. Perth, 71, 1029 
Lows, loch of, X. Perth, 673 
Lowther, see Louther 
Lowtis hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 245 
Low Valleyfield, village of, x. Perth, 601 
Loyal loch, xv. Sutherland, 69, 217 
Loyall hill, X. Perth, 1111 
Luachragan water, viL Argyle, 517 
Luag loch, X. Perth, 252 
Luath's stone, xiL Aberdeen, 613 
Lubnaig loch, x. Perth, 345, 350 
Luce, suppressed parish of; iv. Dumfries 

289 
Luce bav, iv. Wigton, 36, 61, 66, 162, 
163,220— abbey, 88— sands, 162— wa- 
ter, 67, 76, 82 
Luce, New, parish of, iv. Wigton, 76 
Luce, Old, parish of, iv. Wigton, 66 
Luckcn booths, the, i. Edinburgh, 624 
Luckland hill, ix. Fife, 218, 219 
Lud castle, rock called, xi. Forfiur, 491 
Ludd stone, the, xv. Caithness, 1 15 
Lude water, iii. Peebles, 79 
Lude house, x. Perth, 569 
Luffness house, ii. Haddington, 252, 2S3 
— point, 250 



GENERAL INDEX. 



XCVll 



Lugar water, â–¼. Ayr, 106, 160, 323, 475, 

476 
Lugiite water, i. Edinburgh, 403 — castle, 

ruins of, 418 
Luggan water, vii. Argyle, 668 
Luggie bum, vi. Lanark, 401, 653, viii 

Dunbarton, 137, 172 
Lugton barony and village, L Edinburgh, 

500,510 
Lugton water, v. Ayr, 290, 572, 811, 812, 

vii. Ileniiew, 537 
Lui, Ben, viil Stirling, 90 
Luib bridge, xii. Aberdeen, 554 
Luichart loch, xiv. Ross, 236 
Luidh water, xiL Aberdeen, 648 
Luie hilLs xiu Aberdeen, 846 
Luin loch, xiv. Ross, 187 
Luing island, vii. Argyle, 71 
Luire loch, xiv. Invernest), 484, 490 
LukestoB house, viiL Stirling, 245 
Lum loch, vi. Lanark, 400 
Lumbistcr dale, xv. Shetland, 84 
Lumphanan, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 

1079 
Lumphinnan colliery, ix. Kinross, 88 
Lumsden, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 412, 

413 
Lumsden dean, ii. Berwick, 280 
Lunac water, xiii. Elgin, 138 
Lunan, parish of, xi Forfar, 320 — ^bay, 

239, 240, 246, 321--water, 142, 239. 

240, 320, 384, 393, 394, 470, 597, 693 
—well, 240 

Lunan water, x. Perth, 673, 904, 1001, 
1003 

Lunasting, annexed parish of, xv. Shet- 
land, 53 — church, 55 

Luncarty, battle of,ii. Haddington, 158 — 
itasite, x. Perth, 163, 173, 176— sup- 
pressed parish of, 163 — bleachfield, 188 

Lundie crag, xi. Forfar, 457 — hill, 663, 
664— house, Pictish remains at, 581— 
loch, 456, 649 

Lundie and Fowlis, united parishes of, xi. 
Forfar, 455 

Lundie loch, xv. Sutherland, 25 — mount, 
24 

Lundin, standing stones of, ix. Fife, 267 
—house, 435. 438 

Lundin mill, village of, ix. Fife, 442 

Lunga isle, viL Argyle, 534 

Lunna iirth, xv. Shetland, 82 

Lurdenlaw, property of, iiL Roxburgh, 
239 

Lurg le«Mi mines, viL Argyle, 170 

Lurg hill, xiii. Banff, 214 

Lurg,ruins of chapel at, viii. Dunbarton,49 

Lurky Patiesthom loch, i v. Kirkcudbright, 
282 

Luscar hill, ix. Fife, 690— den, 695— 
house, 706 

Lusragan water, vii. Argyle, 517 

Luas, parish of, viiL Dunbarton, 155 — 
property, 75 — quarries, 164, 236— vii* 
lage, 157, 162, 165— water, 156 

VOL. XV. 



Lussa water, vii. Argyle, 281 

Luseetter ncss, xv. Shetland, 83 

Luther water, xi. Kincardine, 69, 7 1 , 129, 

130, 299, 304 
Luthcrrauir, village of, xi. Kincaniine, 

303, 305 
Luthrie, viUage of, ix. Fife, 632, 651 
Lylwter, property of, xv. Caithnets, 88, 
99— church, 91, 107— village, 92, 104 
—ruins of chapel at, 17— fishery, 19 
Lyking, cairn at, xv. Orkney, 55— im- 
provements at, 61 
Lylesland, village of, vii. Renfrew, 200 
Lylestone, limestone at, v. A3rr, 814 
Lymphoy tower, i. Edinburgh, 546 
Lymycleuch bum, iiL Roxburgh, 428 
Lynchat, village of, xiv. Invernest, 93 
Lyndemus hill, ix. Fife, 596 
L>'ne bum, ix. Fife, 829 
Lyne water, vi. Lanark, 52 
Lyne water, iil Peebles, 2, 122, 125, 135, 

136, 155, 156, 166 
Lyne and Megget, united parishes of^ iii. 

Peebles, 166 
Lynedale plantations, xiv. Inverness, 3'29 
Lynedoch house, x. Perth, 145, 150, 162 
Lynegar, improvements at, xv. Caithness, 

56 
Lynemore, cascade at, xiii. Nairn, 27 
Lynne, property of, v. Ayr, 217 
Lynturk, linn of, xii. Aberdeen, 1106— 
plantations, 1 107— history of property, 

nil 

Lynvuilg. hamlet of, xiv. Inverness, 93 
Lyoll hills, xv. Sutherland, 165 
Lvon castle, ruins of, ii. Linlithgow, 1 30 
Lyon castle, x. Perth, 409— glen, 529, 

703 -loch, 530~water, 530, 540, 541, 

757, 758 
Lyth, property of, xv. Caithness, 114 — 

improvements at, 116 
Maar bum, iv. Dumfries, 323 
Mabearce, loch, v. Ayr, 529 — iv. Wigton, 

11, 196,232 
Macali8ter*s bay, vii Arg>'le, 281 
Macallan, annexed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 

60 — church and churchyard, 68 
Macanree, loch, x. Perth, 1097 
Macbeary, see Mabearie 
Macbeth*s caim and stone, xii. Aberdeen, 

1083. 1092 
Macbeth 's castle, Broughton, iiL Peeblet, 

87 
MacbethiB castle, Caimbeddie, x. Perth, 

873 
Macbeth's castle, Dunsinane, x. Perth, 

213 
Macbeth's castle, Manner, iiL Peebles, 

117 
Macbeth'* stone, x. Perth, 234 
Macduff, village of, xiu. Banff, 286, 291 
MacdufTs castle, Markinch, ix. Fife, 665 
Macduff's castle, Wemyss, ix. Fife, 393 
Macdurs cave, ix. Fife, 319 
I Macduff* cross, ix. Fife, 52, 70 

n 



XCVIU 



GENERAL IKDEX. 



Afacdui, Ben, xii. Aberdeen, 647, xiii. 

Banff, 12.5, 296, 298, Elgin, 198 
Macfadyen's cave and stone, vii. Argyle, 

85 
Machar, chapelry of, vL Lanark, 287— 

colliery, 723--muir, 728 , 
Machanshire, district of, vL Lanark, 729 
Machar, New, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 

1025 
Machar, Old, parish of, xiu Alierdeen, 6, 

1074 
Machare Mianach, improvement of, xiv. 

Inverness, 192 
Machermore house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

134 
Machcrs of Galloway, the, iv. Wigton, 219 
Machirhanish bay, vii. Argyle, 455 
Machirs of Uist, the, xiv. Inverness, 160 
Machony water, x. Perth, 312, 315 
Machririoch bay, vlL Argyle, 414 
Machry bay, v. Bute, 41 
Machry Kill, ruins of church at, v. Ayr, 

384 
Mackinnonls cave, vii. Argyle, 299, 351, 

352 
M'liarty, isle of, vii. Argyle, 47 
Macleod^s maidens, rocks called, xiv. In- 
verness, 324 
MacIeod*8 tables, hilb called, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 323 
M*Merry colb'eries, ii. 1 76 
Macnab^ institution. Dollar, viii. Clack- 
mannan, 94 
M'Niven isle, vii. Argyle, 47 
M'Question, cairn at, iv. Dumfries, 475 
Madderty, parish of, x. Perth, 748 
Maddie water, viii. Clackmannan, 77 
Maddy loch, xiv. Inverness, 162 
Maddymore rock, xiv. Inverness, 162 
Madrany water, x. Perth, 298 
Madras college, St Andrews, ix. Fife, 482 
Maedie loch, xv. Sutherland, 169 
Magbiehiil loch and quarries, iil Peebles, 

136 
Magdalene vard quarry, xi. Forfar, 5 
Maghaigloch, x. Perth, 1226 
Magus muir, ix. Fife, 460 
Maioh water, v. Ayr, 691, 692 
Maiden bower craigs, iv. Dumfries, 2 
Maiden castle of Collessie, ix. Fife, 29 
Maiden castle of Markinch, ix. Fife, 664 
Maiden castle of Roslin, i. Edinburgh, 

351 
Maiden causeway, xii. Aberdeen, 570 
Maiden paps of Roxburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 

427 
Maiden rock, the, ix. Fife, 456 
Maiden Skerry, the, xv. Shetland, 72 
Maiden stone of Ayton, ii. Berwick, 131 
Maiden stone of Oarioch, xii. Aberdeen, 

571,572 
Maiden stone of Tulliebody, viii. Clack- 
mannan, 5G 
Maiden tree of Dollar, viii. Clackmannan, 
93 



I Maiden's leap, the, x. Perth, 1032 
I Maidens, rocks called the, v. Ayr, 35*2 
I Maidenlee, the, vi. Lanark, 250 
Main law, ii. Berwick, 94, 99 
Main water of Luce, iv. Wigton, 76 
Maincastle, «mp called, v. Ayr, 181 
Maingill quarry, vi. Lanark, 18 
Mainhill quarry, vi. Lanark, 648 
Mainland of Orknev isle, xv. Orkney, I, 

13, 26, 40, 41, 67', 148, 169^ 196, 204 
Mainland of Shetland isle, xv. Shetland, 

1, 7, 19, 53, 56, 57, 70, 93, 97, 145 
Mains bum, v. Ayr, 692 
Mains house, ii. Berwick, 125 
Mains castle, xi. For&r, 55, 59 
Mains, improvement of, vi Lanark, 833 
— castle, ruins o^ 891 
[ Mains and Strathmartine, united parishes 
of^ xi. For&r, 54 
Mains of Carmylie quany, xi. Forfkr, 353 
Mains of Daviot, ruins of castle at, xiv. 

Inverness, 518 
Mains of Kilpatrick, property of, viii Dun- 
barton, 42 — trees at, 40 
Mains of Kirdals, remains found at, xiii. 

Elgin, 69 
Mainsbank, coins found at. xi. Forfar, 898 
Mainside fell, iil Roxburgh, 204 
Miusley quarry, xiii. Banff, 390 
Maison Dieu, Brechin, xi. For&r, 133, 140 
Maison Dieu, Dunbar, ii. Haddington, 79 
Maison Dieu, Edinburgh, L Edinburgh, 

657 
Maison Dieu, Elgin, xiii. Elgin, 7 
Maison Dieu, Jedburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 10 
Major's Knowe, the, I Edinburgh, 510 
Makerston, parish of, iii Roxburgh, 1 37 
Malcolm's stone, Glammiss, xi. For&r, 

344 
Malcolm's tower, Dunfermline, ix. Fife, 

822, 848 
Malleny house, i Edinburgh, 546 — lime- 
stone at, 545 
Malloch moss, vi I^anark, 303 
Mallorc hills, vii. Argyle, 516 
Mai's Mire, vii. Renlrcw, 504 
Malsach hills, xiii. Banff, 98 
Maltan walls, the, iii. Roxburgh, 243— > 

caves, ib. 
Malzic bum, iv. Wigton, 1 1 
Mam Rattan, pass of, xiv. Inverness, 139 
Man, isle of, iv. Dumfries, 265 
Manar hill, xii. Aberdeen, 677 — hou.sc, 

682 
Miinderston house, ii Berwick, 255 
Mandrose Yetts, the, x. Perth, 305 
Mangaster voe, xv. Shetland, 71 
Mani goe, xv. Caithness, 118 
Mannel burn, viii. Stirling, 206 
Manner, parish of, iii Peebles, 1 10— wa- 
ter, 2, 110 
Mannerhead tower, ruins of, iii. Peeblea, 

116 
Mannoch hill, xiii. Elgin, 60, 82— moss, 
64 



QEKERAL INDEX. 



XCIX 



Manor point, ruins on, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

54 
Manor, pariah of, iii. Peebles, 1 10— water, 

2, 110 
Manor ford, viii. Stirling, 222 — remains at, 

227 
Manquhill, ruins of castle at, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 371 
Mansfield collieries, iv. Dumfries, 299 
Mansfield house, v. Ayr, 512 — ^improve- 
ments at, 515 — limeworks, 511, 512 — 
collieries, 513 — village, 517 
Mansfield Glen limeworks, v. Ayr, 512 
ManHfiel'ihaw limeworks, v. Ayr, 512 
Manslaughter law, ii. Berwick, 94, 99 — 

remains at, 100 
Manuel, remains at, viii. Stirling, 210 
Manuelrig quarry, viii. Stilling, 208 
Manxman's lake, iv. Kirkcudbright, 31 
Maol Ruidhe hills, xiv. Ross, 39, 42, 63, 
348, 350, 365, 381, 384~battle at, 45 
Mar forest, xii. Aberdeen, 649 — lodge, 

650 
Mar bum, iv. Dumfries, 500 
March bum, vi. I^inark, 847, 848 
March field sjMi, i. Edinburgh, 594 
March gill burn, vi. I>anark, 564 
Marchmont house, ii. Berwick, 232 
Maree loch and isle, xiv. lioss, 91 
Mareg bay, xiv. Ross, 159, 167 
Maregrioch, remains at, v. Bute, 53 
Margaret's law, v. Ayr, 800 
Margiu^t's vein lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 

3U0, 301,303 
Marig harbour, xiv. Ross, 169, 167 
Marischall aisle, Dunnottar, xL Kincar^ 

dine, 222 
Marischall college, Aberdeen, xiL Aber- 
deen, 1163 
Mark water, xL Forfar, 192 
Markhouse house, xi. For&r, 200 
Markie bum, xiv. Inverness, 419 
Markinch, parish of, ix. Fife, 655— vil- 
lage, if). — hill, ih. — antiquities on it, 669 
Marie land well, iv. Kirkcudbright, 287 
Markie, property of, ii. Haddington, 21 — 

mins at, ih. 
Marlagc colliery, vi. Lanark, 302, 723 
Marlcfieid house, iii. Roxburgh, 146, 228 
Marline ford, vi. Lanark, 670, vii. Ren- 
frew, 5 
Mnrnock ible, v. Bute, 96, 104 
Mamock, {larish of, xiii. Banff, 382 
Marr's hill, Alloa, remains on, viii. Clack- 
mannan, 41 
Marr's Reive, xii. Aberdeen, 426 
Marr's work, Stirling, viii. Stirling, 408 
Marsco hill, xiv. Inverness, 300 
iMarsh hous(>, iv. Diunfries, 491 
Marson, mins of chapel at, viii. Dunbar- 

ton, 118 
Martin i^le, xiv. Rohh, 74 
Martin's »tone, xi. Forfar, 5 i 
Martinliain loch, v. Avr, -74, 650 — pro- 
p< rty of, 282, 288 



Martyrs' bay, vii. Argyle, 337 

Martyrs' church, Paisley, vii Renfrew, 

227, 239 
Martyrs' tomb, RuUion, i. Edinburgh, 315 
Mary's brig, iv. Kirkcudbright, 90 
Mary*s cleugh, plantations at, iv. Dum- 
fries, 175 
Mary's hill, Kirkliill, xiv. Inverness, 459 
Mary's lake, vii. Argyle, 3.55 
Mar}''s loch, xiv. Ross, 334 
Mary H well, Alness, xiv. Ross, 344 
Maiy's well, l^llie, xiii. Elgin, 1 16 
Marys well, Marktown, xi. Forfar, 115 
Mary (itil)l>'b Htoue, i. Kdinburgh, 202 
Mary burgh, village of, xiv. Roas, 21 1,256 
MaryculterjjMirish of, xL Kincardine, 189 

— houHC, 191 
Miiryfield house, xii. Aberdeen, 995 
Mary kirk bridge, xi. Forfiu", 268 
Marvkirk, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 297 

—'village, 298, 303 
Mar>port bay, iv. Wigton, 201 
Mary town, parish of, xi. Forfiu-, US- 
law, ib. — village, 185 
Mary well, \illage of, xi. Forfar, 498 
Matihockmill colliery, vi. Ijanark, 568 
Massan water, >'ii. Argyle, 579 — glen, 572 
Masterton, tillage ot^ ix. Fife, 874 
Mathers, village of, xi. Kincardine, 274<^ 

Kaim of, 280— limeworks, 289 
Mathie water, xiv. Inverness, 430 
Matilda, fort, vii. Renfrew, 410 
Mauchlane hole, ironstone at, vi. Lanark. 

881, 887 
Mauchlinc, parish of, v. Avr, 158^hill, 

159— vilhi^e, 162, 164 
Mauchline muir, battle of, v. Ayr, 161 
Maud hill, xiii. Banff, 246 
Maudiston, ironstone pits at, viii. Stirling, 

209— village, 213 
Mauke's hill, ii. Linlithgow, 118 
Mauld, school at, xiv. Invemess, 501 
Mauldslie castle, vi. Ijanark, 582, 5)57— 
forest, 564— house, 539— law, 565,— 
property, 578 
Maulfiiarmhonvie mount, xiv. Inverness, 

37, 38, 41 
Maulside, mineral spring at, v. Ayr, 212 — 

plantations, 214— house, 220 
Maume Soule hill, xiv. Invemeas, 363 
Maunderlea hill, xiii. Banff, 144 
Mavie Mill, viii. Dunbarton, 215 
Mavisbank, house and camp at, L Edin- 
burgh, 333 
Mavisgrove house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
Mavistown, sandhilb of, xiii. Naim, 7 
Maxton, parish of, iiL Roxburgh, 115— 

plantations at, 108 — village, 117 
Maxwell, suppressed parish of, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 127, 308— churchyard of, 317 
Maxwell's cross, ii. Berwick, 207 
Maxweir» Thorns, iv. Dumfries, 453 
Maxwellheujih, villa}»e of. iii. Roxburgh, 

321, 334 
Maxwellton hoaw, iv. Dumfries, 33*2 



GENEBAL I5DEX. 



Maxwellton, village of, vi. Lanark, 893 
Maxwelltown, town of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

227 
Maxwellton house, vii. Renfrew, 198— vil- 
lage, 200 
May isle and lighthouse, ix. Fife, 6 11, 612, 

942 
Maybole, parish of, v. Ayr, 348^K»8tle, 

ruins of, 365— town of, 365, 366, 373 
Mayfield, plantations of, ii. Berwick, 53 
Mayish, standing stone at, y. Bute, 23 
Mayon house, xiiL Banff, 201 
Mayville house, v. Ayr, 451 j 

Mcadhonach hill, xiv. Ross, 39 ' 

Meadowbank, rock at, v. Ayr, 744 
Meadowbank house, i. Edinburgh, 442 
Mcadowhcad, Fen wick, v. Ayr, 776 
Meadowhead lead niine, vi. Lanark, 336 

— Roman road at, 451 
Meadowmill, village of, ii. Haddington, 

293, 299 
Meag water, xiv. Roes, 367 
Meal Buidhe hill, x. Perth, 529 
Mealeceanndearg hill, xiv. Ross, 1 82 
MealfUarvonie mount, xiv. Inverness, fl7y 

38,41 
Meal Ohaordie hill, x. Perth, 529 
Meal Horn hill, xv. Sutherland, 83, 119 
Mealister, ruins of nunnery at, xiv. Ross, 

153 
Mcall-a^euion hill, xv. Sutherland, 67 
Meallmeadhonoch hill, xv. Sutherland, 

83 
Mearnaig castle, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 241 
Mcarns hill, cave at, xi. Forfiir, 177 
Meams, parish of, >'ii. Renfrew, 512 — 
castle, ruins of, 521 — moor, v. Ayr, 
774, vii. Renfrew, 389— village, 509— 
water, 383 
Meatliic, annexed parish of, xi. Forfer, 

234 
Mechanics' institute, Alloa, viii. Clack- 
mannan, 62 
Mechanics* institute, Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 

180 
Mechanics* institute, Greenock, \ii. Ren- 
frew, 471 
Medicine well, ix. Fife, 128 
Medwin waters, iii. Peebles, 156, 176, vi. 
Lanark, 41, 42, 52, 66, 67, 71, 76, 846, 
944 
Meet hill, xiL Aberdeen, 345 — cairn on, 

302, 356 
Meft, remains found at, xiii. Elgin, 46 
Mcgdale, marl bed at, iv. Dumfries, 430 
Megg's moss, xii. Aberdeen, 349 
Megget, annex etl parish of, iii. Peebles, 
1 67— water, ih. Selkirk, 37, iv. Dum- 
fries, 417, 430 
Mo^inch ciistle, x. Perth, .'JBO, 381, 386 
Melg water, xiv. Hoss, 'J;j(;, 400 
Meigle, parish of, x. Perth, 232— house, 

235— village, 232, 235 
Meigle hill, iii. Selkirk, 11 
Meikc wood, xiv. Ross, 439 



Meikle water, xiv. Ross, 74 

Meikle Binn hiU, viil Stirling, 38, (19, 

140, 234 
Meikle Cese law, IL Berwick, 94 
Meikle Daan house, xiv. Ron, 449 — 

quarries, 438 
Meikle Earnock, tumulus at, vi Lanark, 

270 
Meikle Famess, village of, xiv. Row, 14 
Meikle Ferry, the, xiv. Rosb, 280, 285, 

422, XV. Sutherland, 2 
Meiklefolla, chapel at, xii. Aberdeen, 339 
Meikleholm bum, iv. Dumfries, 102 
Meikle Kenny hill, xi. Forfiu*, 611 
Meikle Obney, standing stones at, x. 

Perth, 433 
Meikleour house, x. Perth, 676 — village, 

677 
Meikleriggs collier}', vii. Renfrew, 151 
Meikle Roe isle, xv. Shetland, 106 
Meikle Mill of Brechin, xi Forfiir, 134 
Meikle Thaim rock, ii. Berwick, 215 
Meikle Wardhousc of Dunnideer, xii. 

Aberdeen, 753 
Meiklewarthill, village of, ziL Aberdeen, 

426 
Meiklewood moor, iv. Dumfries, 342 
Meiklewood hill and loch, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 65 
Meiklewood, Roman remains found at, 
>'iii. Stirling, 50 — house, ib, 53, 59 
I Meikly loch, xiv. Inverness, 38 
I Mein water, iv. Dumfries, 289, 290 
I Meir biu-n, xiii Banff, 155 
' MellK>st sands, xiv. Ross, 117 
! Meldrum, parish of, xii Aberdeen, 474— 
house, 476, 478— village, 478, 480 
Melfort loch, vii Argj'le, 63, 64 
Melgiun water, xi. For&r, 423, 61 1, 637, 

670, G75 
Melgund castle, ruins of, xi. Forfar, G28 
Mellendean bum, iii. Roxburgh, 303 
Mcllerstain house, ii Berwick, 21 — vil- 

Isige, ib. 
Mellingside, cairns on, xii Aberdeen, 732 
Melly house, xv. Shetland, 1 9 
Melness quarry, xv. Sutherland, 179 — 

mission, 181 
Melrose, parish of, iii. Roxbuigh, 51— 
town, 52, 67 — abbey, 58 
I Melrose mill, fall at, xiii. Banif, 275 
I Melsetter house, xv. Orkney, 75 
'â–  Melshach hill and spring, xii. Aberdeen, 
584 
Melundy hill, xiii Elgin, 1 95 
Mehich, school, &c. at, xv. Caithness, 20 
Melville, ancient parish of, i Edinburgh, 

.323 — castle, 333— monument, 655 
Melville house, ix. Fife, 37, 4 1 
Mem big, burial ground at, viii. Dunbar- 

ton, il8 
Menisey, cairns at, xii. Aberdeen, 293— 

house, 295 
Men of Moy, the, xv. Caithness, 23 
Menmiur, parish of, xi. Forfar, 656 



QENEBAL INDEX. 



CI 



Mennoway hills, xii. Aberdeen, 486, 943 
Menock water, iv. Dumfries, 297 
Menstrie, village of, viii. Stirling, 221,230 
Menteith, parish of, x. Perth, 1095 
Menzie hill, spring at, vii Renfrew, 540 
Menzies castle, x. Perth, 705, 706, 709 
Menzion bum, iii. Peebles, 59 — house, 68 

— remains found at, ib. 
Meran water, x. Perth, 541 
Merchant Maiden hospital, i. Edinburgh, 

724 
Merkland, cross of, iv. Dumfries, 279 
Merkland loch, xv. Sutherland, 216 
Merriston bridge, vi. Lanark, 666 
Merryton, soil at, vi. I^anark, 257 
Merse of Berwick, ii. Berwick, 361, 363 
Merton, parish and village of, ii. Berwick, 

26 
Merton hall, remains found at, iv. Wig- 
ton, 177 — house, 178 
Mese-howe cairn, xv. Orkney, 68 
Meshie bum, xiv. Inverness, 419 
Messan water, iv. Wigton, 87 
Mess John's well, xii. Aberdeen, 260 
Methil, village and harbour of, ix. Fife, 

398, 400~chapel, 403 
Methilmill, ruins of church at, ix. Fife, 

393 
Methlick, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 962-^ 

agricultural association, 971— village, 

968 
Methven, parish of, x. Perth, 142 — castle, 

145, 150, 162— village, 151 
Meuble glen, vii. Argyle, 126 
Meucra, alum slate at, iii. Selkirk, 61 
Mey, post office at, xv. Caithness, 31 — 

head, 22— loch, 24 
Meyrick hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 118 
Miaghailt loch, xiv. Inverness, 246 
Michclston house, i. Edinburgh, 417 
Mickery isle, i. Edinburgh, 592 
Mickle BaUoch hiU, xiii. Banff, 214 
MickleFarrel, improvements at, xiv. Ross, 

464 
Mid and South Yell, united parishes of, 

XV. Shetland, 82 
Midbay, property of, xv. Orkney, 120 
Midbrake house, xv. Shetland, 26 
Mid-calder, parish of, L Edinburgh, 356 — 

village, 357, 375 
Midchingle fishery, xi. Kincardine, 1 99 
Migdale loch, xv. Sutherland, 17 
Miglo water, ix. Fife, 775 
Migvie, annexed parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 

839— castle, ruins of, 842 
Middle church parish, Paisley, vii Ren- 

fVew, 226, 238 
Middlehillof Alva, viii. Stirling, 117, 187 
Middlebie, parish of, iv. DumfHes, 364 
Middlefield, remains found at, ii. Berwick, 

238 
Middlefield house, ix, Fife, 8 
Middlefoodie bum, ix. Fife, 771 — village, 

774 
Middle Gill burn, iv. Dumfnes, 102 



Middle Lethendy, old fort at,x. Perth, 272 
Middlerigg colliery, viii. Stirling, 193 
Middle Ross head, viii. Dunbazton, 156 
Middlesknows, quarry at, iii. Roxburgh, 

255 
Middleton coalfield, viii. Clackmannan, 85 
Middleton house, i. Edinburgh, 173, 176 

^village, 184 
Middleton house, xi Forfar, 387 
Middleton house, ii. Linlithgow, 87 
Mid Feara, plantations at, xiv. Ross, 439 
Midgarty, wood at, xv. Sutherland, 196 — 

Pictish remains at. 200 
Midgehole fall, vii. Renfrew, 317 
Midholra village, iii. Roxburgh, 48 
Midhope bum, ii. Linlithgow, 19 — ^house, 

26 
Midland slate quarry, xv. Orkney, 17 
Midlem, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 48 
Mid leys, Draidical circles at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 451 
Midlothian, see Edinburgh 
Midmar, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 629 — 

castle, 630 
Mid Sannox, v. Bute, 3 
Mid Steeple, Dumfries, iv. Dumfries, 14 
Midtown bleachfield, vii Renfrew, 102— 

limeworks, 83 
Mid Yell voe, xv. Shetland, 83 
Miklic, chapel at, xiv. Inverness, 49 
Milbank woollen fectory, xii. Aberdeen, 

864 
Milbank house, xiii. Nairn, 2 
Mil Bui hill, xiv. Ross, 89, 42, 45. 63, 

348, 350, 365, 381, 384 
Milburn printworks, &c. viii. Dunbarton, 

225 
Mildewne, battle of, xii. Aberdeen, 1016 
Mildovan plantations, viii. Dunbarton, 90 
Mildreggan bum, iv. Wigton, 11 
Milehill quarry, xi ForfSar, 438 
Milholm paper mill, vii. Renfrew, 508 
Milhouse house, iv. Dumfries, 141 
MUk water, iv. Dumfnes, 195, 208, 204, 

290, 452, 537— valley of the, 205 
Milkiestone, camp at, iii Peebles, 147 
Mill bay, xv. Orkney, 157 
Mill bum of Crawfordjohn, vi Lanark, 497 
Mill bum of Direlton, ii. Haddington, 204 
Mill bum of Kilbride, v. Ayr, 246 
MiU bum of Muck, x- Perth, 1248 
Mill bum of North Berwick, ii Hadding- 
ton, 318, 319 
Mill bum of Renfrew, vii Renfrew, 5 
Mill hill, remains found at, xiii. Banff, 97 
Mill inn, Stonehaven, xi. Kincardine, 223 
Mill lead of AUnond, x. Perth, 1029 
Mill loch, Lochmaben, iv. Dumfries, 379 
Mill of Banff, distillery at, xiii. Banff, 44 
Mill of Boindie, embankments at, xiii 

Banff, 234 
Mill of Conveth, propertv of, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 133 
Mill of Muchalls, rocks at, xi Kincardine, 
245 



cu 



QBNERAL INDEX. 



Mill of Ncwtoiiy antiquities at, ziL Aber- 
deen, 1072 
Mill of Steps, the, x. Perth, 318 
Mill of WilluunstoD, cairn at, ziL Aber- 
deen, 732 
Millbank paper mill, ii. Berwick 141, 331 
Millbank house, xi Forfar, 498 
Millbank, property of, vii. Renfrew, *513 
Millbay village of, vil Aivyle, 79 
Millbrae woc^ vL Lianark, 404 
Millbrex, chapel at, zii. Aberdeen, 338 
Millbum mill, v. A}t, 743 
Millbum tower, i. Edinburgh, 92 — plan- 
tations at, 80 
Millbum colliery, vi Lanark, 723 
Millbum house, vii. Kenfhiw, 15 
Millbum, Dmidical remains at, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 444 
Millcrofl, village of^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 

134 
Millden cattle show, xi. Forfar, 195 
Milldens of Rcscobie, mills at, xL Forfar, 

608 
Milleamc, qiuirrics at, x. Perth, 336 — 

house and plantations, ib, 338 
Millenwood fell, iii. Roxburgh, 441 
Miller's Knowe quarry, iii. liox burgh, 210 
Miilc Rinidh hill, xv' Sutherland, 1 1 9 
Millerston, village of, vii. Renfrew, 200 
Millerton hill, ii. Berwick, 131 
Millfield house, viii Stirling, 195 
MiU6eld quarries, xi. Forfitr, 571 
Millglen quarries, viii. Clackmannan, 68 
Millguv, village of, viii. Dunbarton, 58, 

64 
Millhall factories, ^ii. Renfrew, 396, 401 

—property of, 39.^ 
Milihead, property of, iv. Dumfries, 57 
Milihcugh bleachfield, vi. Limark, 747 — 
bridge, 250, 254, 722, 751— house, 319 
-village, 734, 737, 738 
Millhill of Carmicliael, the, \i. Lanark, 

517 
Millhill moss, v. Ayr, 354 
Millhills, sandstone quarry o^ ix. Fife, 

841 
Millhouse, rocks at, viL Renfrew, 386 
Milliken house, viL Renfrew, 353, 355, 

361, 370— property of, 368 
Millig, barony of, viii. Dunbarton, 67 — 

ruins of chapels at, 75 
Milliganton, property of, iv. Dumfries, 

554 
Millport, village of, v. Bute, 6.0, 75, 78 
Milltown of Auchterhousc, xi. Forfar, 654 
Milltown of Rothiemay, xiii. Banff, 201, 

202 
Millwell, school at, vL Lanark, 300 
Milmahd hill, camp at, xiL Alx^rdcen, 

1092 
liiilmount house, xiv. Ross, 306 
Milna Craig bridge, xL Forfar, 423 
Jtfi/nathort quarrv, ix. Kincardine^ 56 — 

viJiagc, 5.W, 61, '(iiU-libxatv, Uti 
ACiincmig, cofBns found al, xiv. V\o»,'il^ 



\ 



Milncrofl limcworks, nii. Dunbarton, 178 
Milne Graden house, &c.ii. Berwick, 201, 

202,208 
Milness mission, xv. Sutherland, 1 02 
Milnga\'ie mills, viii. Dunbarton, 58 — vil- 
lage, 50, 64 
Milnhead, plantations at, iv. Dumfiies, 

55 — j>roperty, 57 
Milnholm, cairn at, iii. Roxburgh, 444 
Mihihouse bridge, iv. Dumfries, 173 
Milntown, village of, xiv. Inverness, 48 
Milntown, village of, xiv. Ross, 308 
Milrig, property of, v. Ayr, 610 
Milton burn, iv. Dumfries, 174 
Milton moss, xiii. Elgin, 64 — Danibh re- 
mains at, 68 
Milton loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 347— Bri- 
tish fort at, 1 9 
Milton bridge, vi. I^anark, 722, 750 
Milton Duff, plantations at, xiii. Klgin, 3 
Milton Ijockhart house, vi. Lanark, 582, 

975 — property of, 578 
Milton of I^lgonie, village and chapel oU 

ix. Fife, 682 
Milton of Campsie, village of, viiL Stir- 
ling, 258 
Milton of Conan, property of, xL For^, 

490 
Milton of Jura, village of, vii. Ai^gyle, 54 1 
Milton of Kilpatrick, spinnmg mills at, 

viii. Dunbarton, 25 — village, 29 
Milton of Kilmarnock mills, v. Ayr, 549, 

550 
Milton of Markinch village, ix. Fife, 675 
Milton of Mathers, village of, xL Kincar- 
dine, 272, 285 
Milton of Ruthven, the, xi. Forfar, 413 
Miltonfield bleachfield, &c. viii. Dunbar- 
ton, 28 
Minch sound, xiv. Inverness, 159, 182, 

237, 244, 323, Ros^ 72, 116 
Minchmoor hill, iii. Peebles, 37, Selkirk, 

30 
Mindemal hill, xi. Kincardine, 170 
Mindrum, coins found at, iii. Roxburgh, 

164 
Mine house, copper ore found at, viii. 

Stirling, 222 
Mines and Ulackcraig, village of,iv. Kirk- 
cudbright, 134 
Mingalav isle, xiv. Inverness, 199, 200, 

201 
Mingarv castle, ruins of, vii. Argjle, 145, 

146 * 
Minginish, district of, xiv. InvemcfHi, 2;>5 
Minister Is shealing, the, xiv. Ross, 343 
Minister's well, the, viii DunlMuion, 109 
Minn bay, xv. Shetland, 99 
MinnigaflT, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

117— village, 134, 139 
Minnoch water, v. Ayr, 408 
Minnonie bum, xiii. Banff, 275 
Minnyhive, villagf of, iv. Diuufrifs. .'ISO, 



GENERAL INDEX. 



cm 



Mintlaw, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 863, 

860 
Minto, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 352 — ba- 
rony, 362— craigs, 353, 460— hills, 353 
—house, 354, 372, 375— karae, 460 
Minto Green, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 

366, 370 
Minto house hospital, i. Edinburgh, 730 
Mioble water, vii. Argyle, 124 
Mire of Dunnichen loch, xi. Forfar, 1 46 
Mirebird, the, xi. Kincardine, 325 
Mires hill, vii. Renfrew, 384 
Mirritown, farm of, vi. Lanark, 269 
Miser}', mount, viii. Dunbarton, 212 
Misk collier}', v. Ayr, 443 
Misty law, v. Avr,443, 692, viL Renfrew, 

75,83,355 
Moan ijtle, viiL Dunbarton, 156, 157 
Moan loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 119 
Moar, falls of, x. Perth, 542 
Moat bum, iii. Peebles, 59 
Moat of Alio way, v. Ayr, 39 
Moat of Auchterless, xii Aberdeen, 286 
Moat of Beith, v. Ayr, 579 
Moat of Cumbernauld, viii. Dunbarton, 

142 
Moat of Cumnock, v. Ayr, 476 
Moat of Cupar, ix. Fife, 3 
Moat of Dalmellington, v. Ayr, 315 
Moat of Dull, X. Perth, 767 
Moat of Dumfries, iv. Dumfries, 1 1 
Moat of Ellon, xii. Aberdeen, 903 
Moat of Hamilton, vi. Lanark, 270 
Moat of Hawick, iii. Roxburgh, 392 
Moat of Innermessan, iv. Wigton, 86 
Moat of Ochiltree, v. Ayr, 109 
Moat of Scone, x. Perth, 1064 
Moat of StirUng, viii. Stirling, 405 
Moat of Symington, v. Ayr, 566 
Moat of forbolton, v. Ayr, 747 
Moat of Tyrie, xii. Aberdeen, 722 
Mochnim, parish of, iv. Wigton, 60— 
castle, ruins of, 62 — hill and loch, Kirk- 
cudbright, 382, V. Ayr, 781 
Moffiat, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 102— town, 
105, 114, 117— water, 102, 125— well, 
106 
Moffat collieries, vi. Lanark, 243 
Moidart, district of, vii. Argyle, 118, 120 

^loch 121 
Moile Buidhe hill, xiv. Ross, 39, 42, 63, 
348, 350, 365, 381, 384— battle at, 45 
Moin, district of, xv. Sutherland, 83— 

loch, 137 — mountains, 165, 170 
Moir loch, xv. Sutherland, 120, 122 
Molendinar bum mills, vi. Lanark, 206 
Mollance house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 97 
Mollenbum, village of, vi. Lanark, 408 
Mollinbum, viii. Dunbarton, 169 
Mollin cleugh, iv. Dimifries, 154 
Mollinsbum, rocks at, viii. Dunbarton, 

182 
Molmont hill, v. Ayr, 179 
Moloch hill, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 59 
Monadhliadh hilhi, xiu, Elgin, 124, xiv. ^ 



Inverness, 52, 54, 64, 98, 101, 418, 

514 
Monahoudie moss, xiii. Elgin, 64 
Monaltrie house, xii. Abenleen, 778 
Monar loch, xiv. Invemess, 363 
Monar loch, xv. Sutherland, 72" 
Monasteries, see Abbeys 
Monboddo house, xi. Kincardine, 25, 88 

— plantations, 69, 78 
Monbois, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 250 
Moncrieff chapel, mins of, x. Perth, 808 

—hill, 2, 5, 361, 372, 790— cave in, 3 

—island, 935 
Monciu" castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 832 
Monduff", property of, xi. Kincardine, 260 
Mondynes, district of, xi. Kincardine, 68 

— standing stones o^ 86 
Monearn hill, xi. Kincardine, 170 
Moness, falls ©f, x. Perth, 686, 759— 

— house, 769 
MonethjTies, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 

86 
Moneydie, parish of, x. Perth, 198 
Monfode bum, v. Ayr, 193 
Mongarry, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 449 
Moni, pass of, xiv. Inverness, 45 
Moniabroch, ancient pariah of, viii. Stir- 
ling, 138 
Moniemore, remains at, v. Bute, 23 
Monifieth, parish of, xi. Furfar, 539— \'il- 

lagc,549 
Monikie, parish of, xi. Forfar, 485 
Monimail, parish of, ix. Fife, 37 
Monivaird loch, x. Perth, 726 
Monivaird and Strowan, united parishes 

of, X. Perth, 723 
Monk dyke, the, vii. Renfrew, 15 
Monk isle, the, xiv. Inverness, 148 
Monkcastle house, v. Ayr, 815, 826 
Monk land. New or East, parish of, vi. 

Lanark, 242— Old or West, parish of, 

635— canal, 104, 158, 203,242, 664, 

945— collieries, 642— house, 244, 636, 

958 — ironstone and steel works, 646, 

772 — and Kirkintilloch railway, 664, 

viii. Dunbarton, 202 
Monklaw, Roman camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 

12 
Monkmire loch, x. Perth, 903, 1181 
Monk Mudie's well, xi. Forfar, 3.52 
Moukredding colliery, v. Ayr, 814 
Monkrigg house, ii. Haddington, 6 
Monks' bum, vi. Lanark, 479 
Monks* ford, iii. Roxburgh, 61 
Monks' house, xv. Orkney, 29 
Monks' isle, viii. Dunbarton, 157 
Monks' isle, xiv. Inverness, 169 
Monks' moss, ix. Fife, 30, 31 
Monks' well, ii. Berwick, 1 82 
Monkstadt house, xiv. Inverness, 261, 262 
Monkstoun, village of, ix. Fife, 30 
Monkstoun, village of, vi. Lanark, 406 
Monkton, village of, v. Ayr, 171, 174. 

176 



CIV 



QESEEilL 19DEX. 



Monkton and Prentvick^ united pwiibet 

o<; T. Ayr, 169 
MrmkUmhall colliery, L Edinburgh, 250 
Monkvuod bridge, r. Ayr, 363— home, 

275 
Mfmkwood grore home, r. Ayr, 276 
Monquhitter, parish oC, xii Aberdeen, 

762 
Monquiech, property ot, xL Kincardine, 

259 
Monrieth house, iv. Wigton, 62 — village, 

47 
Monrithmont moor, xL For&r, 251 
Monroman moor, xL Kor&r, 394, 400 
MonA hill, iL Linlithgow, 91 
Mom Grampiua, battle ot, ix. Fife, 777 
Monjiter^B cave, v. Bute, 55 
Montblairy caiitle, ruins of, xiii Ban^ 
]62~dutiUery, 174~houBe, 146, 163 
Montcoffer hill, xiii. Banff, 146— house, 

xii« Aberdeen, 278 
Monteath, strath ot, viii Stirling, 49 
Monteithmont moor, xi. For&r, 109 
Monteviot house, iii Roxburgh, 178, 181 
Montfode castle, ruins of, t. Ayr, 198 
Montffomerieston hill, v. Ayr, 494 
Monthrewmont moor, xL For&r, 394, 400 
Monthrive house, ix. Fife, 268 
Mont Keggie, ancient parish ot, xiL Aber- 
deen, 743 
Montlokowrc hill, iv. Wigton, 201 
Montrose, ]>ari»h and town of, xi Forfar, 
257, 271— bay, 246, 271, 272, 275— 
nens, 246, 270 
Montrfwe'tt dyke, xi. Kincardine, 341 
Monwig loch, xiL Al>CTdeen, 260 
Monyniusk, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 459 
— houAe, 464 — remains at, 463— vil- 
lage, 40*7 
Monynut water, ii. Berwick, 106, Had- 

dingt/m, 235 
Monynut Kdge hill, ii. Haddington, 235 
Monzic bum, ix. Fife, 219 
Monzie, pariiih of, x. Perth, 262 — house, 
26:j, 275 — Druidical remains near, 272 
—vale of, 262— village, 27« 
Moodluw loch, iii. Roxburgh, 88 
Moonzic, parish of, ix. Fife, 786— bum, ib. 
Moorfield tile works, v. Ayr, 547 
Moorfoot hills, i. Edinburgh, 49, 198, iii. 

Peebles, 24 
Moorland, school at, viii. Dunbarton, 1 67 
MoofH, limeworks of, vi. I^nark, 299 
Moore of Galloway, district of, iv. Wig- 
ton, 219 
Moossa, Pictish fort of, xv. Shetland, 154 
Moothills, see Moatu 
MoraU fall of, xiv. Inveraotjs, 39 
Morange, district of, xiii. Banff, 124 
Morangie, big stone of, xiv. Ross, 284< — 

bum, 295 
Moranside, sec Muiravonside 
Morar loch, xiv. Inverness, 128 
Morar, North, diatrict of, xiv. Inverness, 
J 29 



Monv frhh, the, xiiL Buiff; 1 79, 223, 24€, 

Q^n, 35, 83, 101, 1 15, 146, 202, 216, 

Nairn, 7, xir. Inverness, 1, 2,377,459, 

463, 465, Ross, 1, 4, 19, 21, 360, 381, 

382, XV. Sutherland, 24, 192 
Moray, How of, xiiL Elgin, 2 
Moray's crown, xiiL Ei^n, 105 
Morayshire Farmer'^ Club, zm. Elgiiit 15 
Morb'hein hill, xv. Caithncas, 84 
Mordington, parkh o^ iL Berwick, 337 — 

house, 345 
More head, xiv. Roes, 74 
More loch, xv. Caithness^ 69 — mins of 

castle at, 72 
More loch, xv. SntherUnd, 216 
Morebattle and Mow, united pamhea of, 

iiL Roxburgh, 447 
Morebattle, village ci, iiL Roxbuiig^ 146, 

447, 453— hill and camp, 448, 451 
Moredun house, i. Edinburgh, 1 1 
Morcdim hill, x. Perth, 3, 793 
Moreham, parish ot, iL Haddingt<m, 261 

^moor, 1*6. 263— bum, 262— histOfT of 

property, 264 
Morfoot, see Moorfoot 
Morir loch, viL Aigyle, 118, 123 — ^watcr, 

124 
Moriston water, xiv. Inreraesi^ 40, Roes, 

187 
Morhch loch, xiiL Elgin, 138 
Mormond hill, xii. Aberdeen, 250, 687— 

village, 687, 689 
Morphy hill, xL Kincardine, 270— stone 

of, 281 
Morren loch, xiv. Invemess, 525 
Morrich mor, the, xiv. Ross, 281, 285 
Morrison's haven, \illage of, i. Edinburgh, 

274 
Morriston. property of, ii. Berwick, 351 

— tower, ruins of* 352 
Morriston, property o^ \t. Lanark, 376— 

village, 652 
Morroch bay, iv. Wigton, 132, 135 
Mort hill, XV. Caithness, 62 
Morthven, petrifying spring of^ xiiL Banff, 

103 
Mortimer's deep, ix. Fife, 717 
Mortlach, parish of, xiiL Banff, 103 — bat- 

tie of, 104 
Mortlich hill, xii. Aberdeen, 957-~camp 

at, 1061 
Morton, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 91— 

castle, ruins of, 93 
Morton, suppressed parish of, iv. Dum- 
fries, 425 
Morton hall, i. Edinburgh, 1 1 
Morton property of, ii. Selkirk, 25 
Mortonholm, farm of, iv. Dumfries, 91 
Morven hill, xv. Caithness, 84, Suther- 
land, 134 
Morvem hill, xiL Aberdeen, 526, 773, 1071 
Morvem, parish of, m Argj-le, 163 
MorWch hill, xv. Sutherland, 24 
Mossgiel, farm of, v. Ayr, 161 



GSNERAX INBSZ. 



CV 



>f on castle, rehu of, vl Lanark, 502 
Mom iale, viii Dunbarton, 157 
Moss, kirk of, xv. Caithness, 160 
Moss tower, mins of, iii. Roxburgh, 223 

— coins found at, 227 
Moss of Cree, see Cree 
Moss of Killearn, birthplace of Buchanan 

at, viii. Stirling, 65 
Moss of Urr, improvement of, iv. Kirk- 
cudbright, 208 
Mossat water, xii. Aberdeen, 408 
Mossbank house, xv. Shetland, 57 
Mossbumford, caves at, iii. Roxburgh, 

12 — house, 14 — tower, ruins of, 260 
Mossfennan hill, iii. Peebles, 7d^ioiise, 

86, 88— orchard, 85 
Mossfinnin moss, viii. Donbarton, 183 
Moss Flanders, drainage o^ x. Perth, 

1109, 1245~Roman camp at, 1107 
Mosshatburnfoot, coal at, vi. Lanark, 81 
Mosside, antiquities at, xil Aberdeen, 

731, 732 
Mosside limeworks, vi. Lanark, 569 
Mossknowe house, iv. Dumfries, 278, 280 
Mossneuk, Roman cement at, vi. Lanark, 

882 
Mosspaul pass, iii. Roxbuigh, 426, 427 — 
rise of the Ewes at, iv. Dumfries, 437 
— chapel at, 440 
Mossplat, cairn at, vi. Lanark, 554 
Mosston quany, xi. Forfar, 353 
Mosstowie vale, xiii. Elgin, 1 
Moss Wulkingshaw, vii. Renfi^w, 538 
Motes, see Moats 
Mothertop hill, xil Aberdeen, 934 
Motherwell, property of, vi. Lanark, 269 

— village, 467 
Motray water, ix. Fife, 219, 533, S34, 

578, 632, 771 
Moulin, pari^ of, x. Perth, 637— village, 

659 
Moultry, see Motray 
Mounach hill, xiv. Ross, 116 
Mound, Druidical remains at, xt. Suther- 
land, 34 
Mounie, Druidical remains at, xii. Aber- 
deen, 822 
Mount bog and hill, remains found at, iii. 

Peebles, 128, 129 
Mount hill of Monimail, ix. Fife, 37 
Mount village, Campsie, viii. Stirling, 258 
Mount Alexander house, x. Perth, 534 
Mount Annan house, iv. Dumfries, 526 
Mount Battock, xi. Forfar, 191, Kincar- 
dine, 231, 232— remains on,Forfiur, 623 
Mount Blair, xi. Forfar, 422, 424 
Mountbleary, see Montblairy 
Mount Blow house, viii. Dunbarton, 22 
Mountboy hill, xi. Forfar, 246 — ^wood, 

247, 250 
Mount Cameron, coal at, vi. Lanark, 881 
Mount Charles house, v. Ayr, 4, 16 
Mount Cyrus, plantations at, xi Kincar- 
dine, 279— house, 283 
Mounteviot house, iii. Roxburgh, 178, 181 

VOL. XV. 



Mount Floridon hill, vii. Renfrew, 503 
Mountgerald house, xiv. Ross, 366— pro- 
perty, 320 
Mountgower hill, xL Kincardine, 170 
Mountgreenan house, &c. v. Avr, 811, 

812, 815, 826-colUery, 814 
Mount Holly hill, iv. Dumfries, 452 
Mount Hooly, L Edinburgh, 657 
Mount Keen hill, xi. For&r, 191, Kin- 
cardine, 24, xii. Aberdeen, 773 
Mount Lothian church, ruins o^ i. Edin- 
burgh, 29 
Mount Melville house, ix. Fife, 307 
Mount Misery hill, viii. Dunbarton, 212 
Mount Oliphant, £&rm of, v. Ayr, 30 
Mount Pleasant inn, ii. Bwwick, 2/8 
Mount Pleasant liill, ix. Fife, 404 
Mountquhannie house, ix. Fife, 538, 544 

— property, 551 — quarry, 536 
Mountstuart house, v. Bute, 86 
Mount Vernon colliery, vi Lanark, 646 
Mount Vernon house, i Edinburgh, 1 1 
Moumack hill, xiv. Ross, 116 
Mouse, see Mouss 

Mouss, valley of the, vi Lanark, 1-^.. wa- 
ter, 2, 3, 548, 549, 944 
Moussbank quarry, vi. Lanark, 7 
Moussmill, bridges at, vi. Lanark, 24 
Mouswald, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 442 — 

village, 447 
Mouswald mains, ruins of tower at, iv. 

Dumfries, 445 
Mouth bridge, ii Berwick, 274 
Mow, suppressed parish of, iii Roxburgh, 

447 
Mowbray, property of, xiii. Banff, 15 
Mowses bum, iii Roxburgh, 228 
Moy, annexeid parish of, xiii. Elgin, 215 

— house, 223— loch, Nairn, 44 
Moy hall, xiv. Inverness, 100, 104, 106, 
517— loch, 98, 100— scene of the rout 
of, 518 
Moy and Dalarossie, united parishes of, 

xiv. Inverness, 97 
Moyness castle, remains, &c. at, xiii 

Nairn, 12 
Muchaim, parish of, vii Aigyle, 509 
Muchalls water, xi. Kincardine, 245 — 

house, 253 
Muchrieha*S well and chair, xii. Aberdeen, 

1059 
Muck bum, x. Perth, 1248 
Muck island, xiv. Inverness, 145, 148,153 
Muck loch, V. Ayr, 310 
Muckarsey Hnn, x. Perth, 1173 
Muckhart, parish of, x. Perth, 301 
Muckerach castle, ruins of^ xiv. luTemess, 

437 
Muckle bum of Ardlach, xiii. Nairn, 27 
Muckle bum of Auldearn, xiii Nairn, 

7,8 
Muckle bum of Dyke, xiii. Elgin, 215 
Muckle Binn hill, viii. Stirling, 38, 1 1 9, 

140,234 
Muckle loc\v ^i^VaktA^^u^ ^^s«t\%«tw^^Vs. 



CVl 



OKHSKAL niDBX. 



MuckU Rm iile, zy. SheClaad* 99 
Muckroft well, rl Uiuurk, 400 
Mucomre bridge, xir. Inveratm, 119 
Hucrot, origin of name, iz. Fife, 449 
Mudale loch and water, xt. Sntheriaod, 

67,68 
Mudhouie, property ot, xiiL Banll^ 116 
Mudiesbum, village ot, vi Lanark, 408 
Hugdoch loch ami caiUe, viii Stirling, 

73, 76, 82 

Mugdock, property o^ Tiii Dimbarton, 46 

Mugdrum croM, ix. Fife, 68 — boiue, 72 

—wood, 62— island, 58, x. Perth, 9, 

889 

Muick loch, xii. Aberdeen, 775 — water 

and linn, 776 
Mulck isle, vii. Argyle, 259 
Muidhe BhUrie hill, xiv. Rom, 484 
Muilie loch, xiv. In¥eme88, 363, 496 
Muillanan Liadh hill, xt. CaithaeM, 13 
Muir bum of Beith, t. Ayr, 680 
Muir moti ot For&r, xi. Forfiur, 173 
Muir of I^kan hills, vii. Argyle, 372 
Muir of Ord, xiv. Robb, 381 — fiiir, Invef' 

noes, 371^4tanding Hones at, 366 
Muiravonside, pariiih of, viiL Stirling, 205 

— houiie, 207 
Muirburn house, vi. Lanark, 296 
Muircraig, property of, ix. Fife, 550 
Muirdnim, village of, xi. Forfar, 72 
Muirdykee, battle of, viL 'Renfrew, 86 
Muire loch, xiv. Ross, 334 
Muiretiis, tradition regarding, xiiL Banif, 

98 
Muircnds, improvements of, xiv. Roes, 59 
Muircsk, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 991 

—house, .095 
Muirfield house, ii. Haddington, 212 
Muirfoot, see Moorfoot 
Muirhcad of Caddcr, village of^ vi. La- 
nark, 408 
Muirhou8c, sec Murroes 
Muirhouse, Roman camp at, i. Edin- 
burgh, 4 If) — custle, ruins of, 417— 
house, 596 — plantations, 591 
Muirhouse house, vi. Lanark, 615, 621 
Muirhouse, Pollok\i birthplace, vii. Ren- 
frew, 393 
Muirhouses colliery, vi. Lanark, 610 
Muirhouscs, village of, ii. Linlithgow, 72 
Muirkirk, parisli of, v. Ayr, 147 — iron- 
works, 155 — tarwork, 1 3 1 — village, 
153, 156 
Muirshiels, linrytes at, v. Ayr, 693 
Muirsido of Kinnell, village of, xi. Forfar, 

403 
Muirside of Kirkintilloch mow, viii. Dun- 
barton, 188 
Muirside of Stevcnston, v. Ayr, 426 
Muirtown of Invemcfus village of, xiv. 

InvcmetM, 30 — houM.', 16 
Muirtown of Kinloss, improvements at, 

xilL Elgin, 208 
Muirtown of Marykirk, springs at, xi. 
Kincardine, 299 



142 



of Perth, ?iik«e oC x. Pcrtk, 



Muirrfbld, fium oC xiiL Banft 217 
Mniryhall, property o^ iL Luilithfow, 9 
I Muiryhall muir, vi Lanark, 656 

- Mukie Ben, see Meikle Biim 

' Molben bom, xiii. Banff, 359, 360 
Mulbuie hiUs, xiv. Roes, 348, 350 
^ Muldeary hills, xiil Ban^ 361, 364 
I Muldren house, L Edinburgh, 306 
! Muldren, coal at, vi Lanaik, 81 

• Mull, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton, 300 
I Mnll hill, iv. Wigton, 201 

I MuU isle, vii Argyle, 277, 296, 345 

I Moll of Cara, vii Aigyle, 395 
Mull of Deemess, xr. Orkney, 172 
Mull of Galloway, iv. Wigt^m, 37» 200— 

lighthouse, 201, 209 
Mull of Rin^re, vii Argyle, 414 
Mull of Logan, iv. Wigton, 201 
Mull of Oa, vii Argyle, 645, 661 
Mull of Papay, cave at, xr. Orkney, 117 
Mullion, barony of^ x. Penh, 164 

, MuUoch, remains on, xii Aberdeen, 1057 

I Mulloch bay, iv. Kirkcudbright, 861— 

I bum, 365 

• Mulray, battle at, xiv. Invemeai, 509 
j Multivie, cairns at, xiv. Ross, 342 

- Mumby hirst tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 
490 

Mumrills, Roman remains at, viii Stir- 
ling, 362 
Munadhleagh, see Monadliadh 
Muncraig head, iv. Kirkcudbright, 48 
Mundole plantations, xiii Elgin, 162 
Muncss castle, ruins of^ xv. Shetland, 39 
Munlochv, improvements of, xiv. Ross, 

59, 60~bay, 381, 382, 387— vilUige,61 
Munlochy quarries, xiv. InverneM, 22 
Munnock bum, v. Ayr, 193 
Munzie hill, spring at, vii. Renfrew, 885 
Murder hole, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 131 
Murder loch, iv. Dumfries, 40 
Murderer^s well, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 31 
Miu-doch, property of, ix. Fife, 551 
Muric, quarry of, x. Perth, 373— tree at, 

380— tumulus at, 386 
Murieston water, i Edinbuigh, 357 — 

castle, ruins of, 370, 371 
Murkle quarry, xv. Caithness, 60^— boy, 

t6.— battle of, 62 
Mumac hill, xiv. Ross, 116 
Muman well, xii Aberdeen, 718 
Murray bay, iv. Wigton, 132 
Murray bum, i Edinburgh, 109 
Murray^i islce, iv. Kirkcudbright, 293 
Murray's lunatic asylum, x. Perth, 945 
Murrayshall hill, x. Perth, 935— house, 

938 
Murravshall, minerals at, viii Stirling, 

309— quarry. 331 
Murren isle, viii. Dun barton, 156 
Murroch glen, viii Dunbarton, 2 
Murroes, parish of, xi. Forfieur, 591 
\ '^Msia.N^^iQi^vt.^ q€| XV. Caithness, 114 



GBNBRAL INDEX, 



XVll 



Munligoe, xt. Caithnea^ 118 
Murthly castle, x. Perth, 1007 
Murtle house, xii Aberdeen, 106, 108 — 
burn, 105 — woods, 107, xL Kincaidine, 
181 
MuBdale lighthouse, yii. Ai^gyle, 232 
Muslepool, &rm of, xl Kincardine, 21 
Musselburgh, town of, i. Edinburgh, 249, 

254, 269, 293 
Muthil, parish of, x. Perth, 311 — village, 

312, 327, 328, 329 
Mutton hill, moss of, xii Aberdeen, 730 
Mutton Hole, village of; i. Edinburgh, 601 
Mylnefield house, x. Perth, 408 — village, 

410,418 
Myot hill and house, viii. Stirling, 117 
Myrehead, ruins of tower at, iv. Dumfries, 

453 
Myres castle, ix. Fife, 783 
Myres of Kinghorn, the, ix. Fife, 800 
Myreside quarry, ii. Berwick, 166 
Myresmarl moss, x. Perth, 232 
Myrieton, &rm of, xiii. Banfl^ 21 7 
Myroch bay, iv. Wigton, 201 
Myrtis Knowes, tumuli, xv. Orkney, 140 
Nagana, loch, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Nagunnaichean caves, xiv. Inverness, 

249 
Naimh Fhraing cave, xiv. Inverness, 146 
Nairn, parish of, xiiL Nairn, 1 — town, 1, 
3, 5, 44— river, I, 7, 20, 44, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 444, 446, 51 3, 515 
Nairnshire, observations on, xiii. Nairn, 

44 
Naime castle, tiunulus at, xl Forfiir, 476 
Naime house, x. Perth, 431 
Nahiire loch, xiv. Inverness, 484, 490 
Nambraithrean point, xiv. InvemeM, 240 
Namoin loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Nanbreacdearg loch, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Nan-ean loch, x. Perth, 786 
Nan Uamh loch, \u. Argyle, 122 
Na Reaull loch, viL Argyle, 122 
National monument, Edinburgh, L Edin- 
burgh, 655 
Naughton castle, ruins and history of, ix. 

Fife, 586— house, 577, 578, 588 
Naunt loch, vii. Argyle, 517 — river, 516 
Navar, annexed parish of, xu Forfiu*, 687 
Naver bay, xv. Sutherland, 68 — loch, ib, 

—water, 69, 215 
Nandale, chapel, &c. of, xv. Sutherland, 

199,201 
Naw loch,iv. Wigton, 125 
Neattie, loch, xiv. Inverness, 491 
Necropolis, Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 209 
Nedd, harbour at, xv. Sutherland, 115 
Needle rock, xiv. Inverness, 289 
Needless eye, Colvend, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

215 
Needle'd eye, Oamrie, xiii. Banff, 274 
Needle's eye, Logie Buchan, xii Aber- 
deen, 801 « 
Needle's eye, Slains, xii. Aberdeen, 590 
Neidpath castle, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 9 



Neilston, parish of, vii. Renfrew, 307— 

village, 330, 339 
Neilstone, potato first grown at, viii, Stir- 
ling, 147 
Newark, district of, xv. Orkney, 133 
Nell loch, vii. Argyle, 516 
Nellfield, ironstone at, vi Lanark, 571— 

quarries, 590 
Nelson'fe monument, Edinburgh, i Edin« 

buigh, 617, 655 
Nelson's tower, Forres, xiii. Elgin, 160 
Nemphlar moor, vi. Lanark, 8 — ^uany, 

7 — village, 24 
Nen thorn, parish of, ii Berwick, 2 Id- 
house, 216, 217— village, 217 
Nerstone, village of, vi. Lanark, 877, 879, 

893, 898 
Nervelstone colliery, vii. Renfrew, 101 
Ness, craigs of, v. Ayr, 335— glen, 309 
Ness, loch, xiv. Inverness, 1, 3, 7, 37, 38, 

51, 52, 53, 373— river, 2, 3, 7, 22 
Ness bay, xv. Orkney, 104— head, 47, 79, 

172— fort on, 178 
Ness, district o^ xiv. Ross, 141 
Ness of Burravoe, xv. Shetland, 83 
Ness of Inveigordon, xiv. Ross, 263 
NcHscastle, marl pits at, xiv. Inverness, 

22 
Nessock, port, iv. Wigton, 201 
Nesting, parish of, xv. Shetland, 53— 

churches, 55 
Nethan water, vi. Lanark, 31, 608, 944 
Ncthanfoot, village of, vi Lanark, 38 
Nether Ancrum, village of, iii Roxburgh, 

242 
Nether Ardroscadale, ruins of chapel at, 

V. Bute, 103 
Nether Ayton, property of, ii. Berwick, 

134 
Netherbridge limeworks, vi. Lanark, 882 
Nether Buckie, quarries at, xiii. Banfi^ 

248 
Netherbum, the, vi Lanark, 554 — coIp 

liery, 723 
Netherbyres, property and house, ii Ber- 
wick, 138, 326— quarries, 320 
Nether Careston, tumulus at, xi Forfiur, 

532 
Nether Coll water, xiv. Ross, 120 
Nethercraigs, vii. Renfrew, 144 — bridge, 

387 
Nethercroy, Roman remains at, viii Dun- 
barton, 141 
Netherdale house, xiii Banff, 384 
Netherfield, property o^ vi. Lanark, 304 
Nethergate of Crail, remains at, ix. Fife, 

955 
Netherhall, phintations at, iv. Dumfries, 

55 
Netherhouse colliery, vi Lanark, 646 
Netherhouse, property of, vii Renfrew,52l 
Netherinch bum, viii Stirling, 146 
Nether Kilrenny harbour, ix. Fife, 975 
Netherlaw house, iv. Kirkcudbright^ 359^ 
365 



CVIU 



aSNERAL INDBX. 



Netberlee printiield, vii. Renft«w, 508 
Netherley house, xi. Kincardine, 244, 253 
Nether Menzion, plantations at, iii. 

Peebles, 62 
Nethermill burn, xiii. Banfi; 275 
Nethennill bum, ii. Linlithgow, 19 
Netheraiill distillery, xi. Kincardine, 125 
Nethermill factory, v. Ayr, 281 
Nethermill, remains found at, v. Ayr, 703 
Nethermills, village of, xiii. Banff, 217 
Nether Oliver, remains found at, ill 

Peebles, 63 
Netherplace tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 

453 
Netherplace printfield, vii. Renfrew, 523 
Nether Polloc, coal at, viL Renfrew, 152, 

157 
Nether Polquhortor lime works, V. A3rr,511 
Nether Ross head, viii. Dun barton, 156 
Nethershiels, Roman camp at, i. Edin- 
burgh, 416 
Netherton, coal at, vi. Lanark, 500 
Netherton cross, vi. Lanark, 271 
Netherton quarr}', viii. Dunbarton, 57 
Netherton, village of, vi. Lanark, 505 
Nethertowie, ruins of church at, xii. Aber- \ 

deen, 417 
Nether Tulloch, remains found at, xi. 

Kincardine, 38 
Nether Tyne bleachfield. ix. Fife, 812 
Netherwood quarry, viii. Dunbarton, 1 35 
Nethy water, xiii. Elgin, 92 
Nethy water, x. Perth, 838 
Nevay, annexed parish of» xi. Forfar, 475 
Neve of Ackemess, xv. Orkney, 116 
Nevie, ruins of chapel at, xiii. Banff, 1 33 
Nevis, Ben, xiv. Inverness, 117, 119, 503 

—loch, 12.0, 525— water, 19 
Nc\7d, district of, viii. Dunbarton, 1 1 4 
New parish, Greenock, vii. Renfrew, 455 
New Abbev, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

244— viflage, 255 
New Aberdour, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 

265, 270 
Newark, Lady, Pictish remains at, xv. 

Orkney, 138 — ruins of chapel at, 141 
Newark, I^onmay, Druidical remains at, 

xii. Aberdeen, 224 
Newark castle, Maybole, ruins of, v. Ayr, 

365 
Newark castle, Port-Glasgow, ruins of, vii, 

Renfrew, 64 
Newark castle, Selkirk, ruins of, iii. Sel- 
kirk, 3 
Newark house, ruins of, ix. Fife, 343 
Newart hill, vi. Lanark, 775 
Newarthill, village of, vi. Lanark, 793, 797 
New Auohenaim, village of, vi. Lanark, 408 
Newbanis qiiarrj', xi. Forfar, 294 — pro- 
perty, 301 — house, 977 
Newbattle, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 63 — 

abbey, 68— village, 63 
Xcwbigging, basaltic coUnnnR at, ix. Fife, 
518 — house, 415, 7% — ^V\me tvv\wrvQ^,\ 
408— village, '2r>7 ^ 



Newbigging, Berrie, ftinn of, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 21 

Newbigging, Camwatb, village of, tL La- 
nark, 90 

, Newbigging, Klnnell, spinning mills at,zi 
Forfar, 407 

Newbigging, Lethnot, Dmidical remaint 
at, xi, Forfar, 689 

Newbigging, Newtyle, village of, xL For- 
far, 562 

Newbigging, Oxnam, coins found at, iii. 
Roxburgh, 262 

Newbridge, village of, i. Edinburgh, lS4p 
139 

New Buckie, mineral spring at, xiiL Banff, 
247 

Newburgh, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 700 

Newburgh, pari£ of, ix. Fife, 56 — town, 
ib, 63, 71, 75— ferry, x. Perth, 395 

Newbum, parish of, ix. Fife, 124 

Newbyth, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 278, 
281 

Newbyth house, ii. Haddington, 81 

NewCathcart, village o^ vii Renfrew, 496, 
505 

Newck house, viii. Stirling, 283 

New Craighall colliery, L £dhibuig:h, 251 
—village, 294 

New Cumnock, parish of, v. Avr, 509— 
village, 510, 520 

New Evilly, village o^ v. Ayr, 388 

New Deer, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 175 
—village, 182 

New Desk, suppressed parish of, xi. For- 
far, 623 

New Duflliis, village of, xiii Elgin, 38, 40 

Newe house, xii. Aberdeen, 546 

New England bay, iv. Wigton, 201 

Newfield, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 278— 
house, 677, 678 

New Galloway, town of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 
108, 112, 114, Wigton, 229 

New Glencrieff lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 
300, 303 

Newgord isle, xv. Shetland, 38 

New Ilailes house, i. Edinburgh, 288 

Newhall, Craill, quarries at, ix. Fife, 946 
— tower, niins of, 947 

Newhall house, Fetteresso, xi. Kincardine, 
253— chapel at, 265 

Newhall house, Ketthis, xL Forfar, 641, . 
644 

Newhall plantations, property, &c. Kirk- 
michael, xiv. Ross, 43, 47 

Newhall house, Linton, iii. Peebles, 157 

Newhall house, Pcnnicuik, i, Edinburgh, 
36 

Xewhalls bum, iii. Peebles, 39 

Xewhalls, village of, ii. Linlithgow, 1— 
pier, 10 

Newhavcn, village and qtioad tacra pa- 
rish of, i. Edinburgh, 781 

Ncwhills, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 237 

'S^^wVoVccvVvwvsfe.vv. Lanark, 57 — lead or« 



GENIRAL INDEX. 



CIX 



Newhouse, Hamilton, ironstone at, â–¼!. 

Lanark, 259 
Newhouse, Holywood, freestone, &c. at, 

iv. Dumfries, 555 
Newhousc, St Ninians, viii. Stirling, 31 6 

—village, 403 
Newhouse lynns. Yarrow, iii. Selkirk, 37 
Newhouse mill, village of, vi Lanark, 

887 
Newhouses, village of, i. Edinburgh, 1 39 
Newington, property of, ix. Fife, 551 
New Inverawe house, vii. Argyle, 98 
New Keith, viUage of, xiii. Banff, 389, 390 
New Kilmarnock, see Fenwick 
New Kilpatrick, parish of, viii. Dunbarton, 

36 
Newkirk, village of, viii. Dunbarton, 59 
New Lanark, village and manufactures 

of, vi. Lanark, 12, 19, 22, 23 
Newland hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 358 
Newlandrigg, village of, i. Edinburgh, 1 83 
Newlands buni, iv. Dumfries, 54 
Newlands, tumuli at, ii. Haddington, 96 
Newlands, Druidical remains at, xi. Kin- 
cardine, 86 
Newlands, limestone at, vi. I^anark, 882 
Newlands, parish of, iii. Peebles, 1 35 
Newlands, coins found at, vii. Renfrew, 

505— bleachfield, 508 
New Langholm, village of, iv. Dumfries, 

419,422,424 
New Leslie castle, ruins of^ xii. Aberdeen, 

1023 
Newlistou house, i. Edinburgh, 139 
New Luce, parish of, iv. Wigton, 76 — vil- 
lage, 78 
New Machar, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 

1025 
Newmains colliery, vi. Lanark, 775 
Newmains house, iv. Dumfries, 383 
Newmill house, Dairsie, ix. Fife, 771 
Newmill, Dolphinton, camp at, vi. Lanark, 

57 
Newmill, Keith, village of, xiii. Banff, 

389, 390 
Newmill, Kilmarnock, the, v. Ayr, 549, 

550 
Newmill foundery, St Andrews Lhanbryd, 

xiii. Elgin, 32 
Newmill, Torrybum, village of, ix. Fife, 

733 
Newmills, Fordyce, village of, xiiL Banff, 

191 
New mills^ Jedburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 14 
Newmills tower, Loudon, ruins of, v. Ayr, 

838— village, 850 
Newmiln harbour, viii. Stirling, 281 
New Monkland, parish of, vi. lianark, 242 
New Orbiston, Owenite establishment at, 

vi Lanark, 780 
Newport harboiu", ix. Fife, 506, 514— 

ferrv, 512— \'illage, 508 
New Rattray, vill^e of, x. Perth, 242, 

243, 246 
New Rcay, ullage f]^, xv. CaithnetB, 20 



New Sauchy coIUery, viii. Clackmannan, 

28, 31 
New Saughton house, i. Edinburgh, 597 
New Scone, village of, x. Perth, 1071, 

1072 
Newshot isle, vii. Renfrew, 1 1 7 
New Spynie, parish of, xiii. E^lin, 95 
Newst^, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 54, 

New Stonehaven, see Stonehaven 

New Street church, Edinburgh, L Edin- 
burgh, 664 

New Tarbat, plantations at, xiv. Ross, 301 
—castle, ruins of, 305 

Newton, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 557— 
church, ruins of, 568 

Newton of Abbotshall, village of^ ix. Fife, 
159 

Newton of Abercom, village of, iL Lin- 
lithgow, 30— quarry, 29 

Newton, Aboyne, cairns at, xii Aberdeen, 
1061 

Newton Aird^ house, iv. Dumfries, 560 

Newton Argvle, village of, vii Argyle, 
433 

Newton of Avondale, property of, vi. Lar 
nark, 304 

Newton castle, Ayr, ruins of, v. Ayr, 93 

Newton upon Ayr, parish and town of, t. 
Ayr, 18, 86 

Newton, Bedrule, camp at, iii Roxburgh, 
283— village and house, 287 

Newton castle, Blairgowrie, x. Perth, 915 

Newton, Boharm, propertv of, xiii Banff, 
364 

Newton bum, Cambuslang, vi Lanark, 
419— house, 413 

Newton house, Crawford, vi. Lanark, 381 

Newton of Criech, harbour of, xv. Suther- 
land, 21 

Newtown of Cullen, the, xiii Banff, 342 

Newton of Culsalmond, plantations at, 
xii Aberdeen, 728 

Newtown of Cumbrae, village of, v. Bute, 
74 

Newtown of Dollar, village of, viii. Clack- 
mannan, 87, 110 

Newton Don house, ii. Berwick, 217 

Newton of Falkland, village of, ix. Fife, 
936 

Newton hill, Forgan, ix. Fife, 506 

Newton of Glammiss, village of, xi. For- 
fer, 347 

Newton castle, Glenlsla, ruins of, xi. For- 
far, 428 

Newton hall, Keimoway, ix. Fife, 379 

Newton church, Kilmadock, ruins of, x. 
Perth, 1231 

Newton of Kiltcam, improvements at, 
xiv. Ross, 325 

Newton house, Kirkhill, xiv. Roes, 325 

Newton house, Kirkpatrick, iv. Dumfries, 
280 

Newtown of Lennel^ v\ll»^<ft <5>^^ vw> ^«t- 



ex 



GBNBRAL IHBBX. 



Newton, Knaps of, Lunan, xi For&r, 826 

Newton of Mearns, village of^ m Ren- 
frew, 523 

Newton, Melrose, Tillage oit tiL Koxbujgfa, 
67 

Newton, Moffie^ caves at, iv. Dumfries, 
122 

Newton house, Nairn, xiiL Nairn, 2 

Newton, Nenthom, village of,ii. Berwick, 
217 

Newton, Paislej, property of, vii. Ren- 
frew, 197 

Newton, Ralston, village of^ viL Renfrew, 
330 

Newton house, St Vigeans, xL Forfiur, 497 

Newton of Tilliecaim, urns found at, xiL 
Aberdeen, 1060 

Newton, Wamphray, nllage o^ iv. Dum- 
fries, 142 

Newton quarry, Whitsome, ii. Berwick, 
176 

Newton bum, Wick, xv. Caithness, 123 

Newton of Wistown, village of, vi. La- 
nark, 95, 98— limeworks, 811 

NewtonhalU property of, ii. Haddington, 
161,163 

Newtonhill, property of, xi. Kincardine, 
260 

Newtonmill house, xi. Forfar, 666 

Newtonshaw, village of, xm, Clackman- 
nan, 132 

Newton Stewart, town of^iv. Wigton,168, 
178, 179, 187 

Newtyle, parish of, xl Forfer, 558 — rail- 
ways, 40, 565, 686— hill, 558, x. Perth, 
961 

New Wark, ruins of the, iv. Dumfries, 11 

New year field, the, ii. Linlithgow, 1 1 7 

Nial Glundubh, the, xiv. Inverness, 338 

Niben isle, xv. Shetland, 71 

Nic Cleosgeir mhor rock, xiv. Inverness, 
324 

Niddry church, ruins of, i. Edinburgh, 7 
-—house, 11 — quariT, 21 

Niddrv, village of, Kirkliston, i. Edin- 
burgh. 139 

Nielsland, property of, vi. I^anark, 269 

Nien of Brindister, xv. Shetland, 101 

Nigg, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 195— 
bay, 197, 207 

Nigg, parish of, xiv. Ross, 18 — hill, 19— 
sands, 20, 301 

Nine mile bum, village of, i. Edinburgh, 
45 

Ninestane rig, the, iii. Roxburgh, 227, 444 

Nine wells, the, ix. Fife, 58 

Ninewclls, plantationH at, ii. Berwick, 126 

Nine yards of Stevenston, the, v. Ayr, 452 

Nippcs hill, V. Ayr, 510 

Nisbct, conventicle at, ii. Ben^ick, 269— 
castle, site of, 270 — chapel, 276 — 
house, 270 

Nisbet house, trees at, vi. Lanark, 343, 
344 

Nisbet castle, ruins of,m. Kox\jv\T^,\1b 



Nisdaie hill, xiv. Invemea, 248 

Nith river, iv. Dumfries, 1, 3, 29, 53^ 54, 

55, 59, 63, 78, 91, 92, 93, 297, 815, 

323, 336, 337, 349, 460, 461, 500, 554, 

Kirkcudbright, 224, v. Ayr, 509, 510 
Nithsdale, iv. Dumfries, 567, v. Ayr, 510 
Nithside house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
Nitshill copperas works, vii. Renfrew, 157 

—quarry, 149, 153~village, 190, 200, 

249 
Nivingstone house, ix. KinroH^ 41 — 

quarry, 44 
Nochty water, xiL Aberdeen, 525, 580— 

bridge, 554 
Noddle water, v. Avr, 789 
Noe glen, vii. Aigyle, 472— water, 478 
Noir loch, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Noltland castle, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 122, 

123 
Noop bay, xv. Orkney, 1 15 — ^head, 1 16 
Noop of Noes, the, xv. Shetland, 10 
Noran water, xi. Forfiu*, 198, 31 1, 520 
Noranside house, xi. Forfar, 198, 313 
Norman Dykes, xii. Aberdeen, 108 
Normans* law, ix. Fife, 49, 205, 584, 

596 
Norries law, Roman remains on, is. Fife, 

439 
Norrieston, chapel at, x. Perth, 1282, 

1283 — quoad Mcra parish of, viiL Stir- 
ling, 264 
Norshield, camp at, iii. Peebles, 147 
North Bridge of Edinbur^, i. Edinboigh, 

644 
North British railway, the, i. Edinburgh, 

756 

North church of Dunfermline, 7i«XM/«iem 

parish of, ix. Fife, 897 
North church of Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 

227, 239 
North isles of Orkney, the, xv. Orkney, 

114, 156 
North loch, the, i. Edinburgh, 644 
North parish of Greenock, vii. Renfrew, 

455 
Northbar, spinning mills at, v. Ayr, 591 

— village, 593 

North barr, property of, vii Renfrew, •SIS 

North Berwick, parish of, ii. Haddington, 

317— law, 318, 320, 358— links, 318— 

house, 332— abbey, 326— golf club> 834 

—town, 323, 338 

North brae of Campsie, viii. Stirling, 235 

North Calder water, vi. Lanark, 642, 766, 

771, 944 
North Clermiston, property o^ i. Edin- 
burgh, 597 
Northdale, ruins of chapel at, xv. Shet- 
land, 25 
North Dike, remains at, xv. Orkney, 54 
North Devon water, viii. Clackmannan, 7 
North East town, village of, vL Lanark, 
«77 
. Northern abbey of Lindores, xii. Aber- 



OINBBAL IVDBX. 



CXI 



Nprthem meeting room>» xiv. InverneH^ 

17 
North Esk river, I Edinliuigh, 80, 81, 
324, 337, 338, 458, 607, ill Peebles, 
176— church, i. Edinburgh, 285 
North Esk river, xi. Forfar, 192,263, 264, 
272, 624, 625, 664, Kincardine, 112, 
270, 272, 289, 298, 299 
North Farry mills, xL Forfar, 51 1 
Northfield, Bower, property of, xv. Caith- 
ness, 114 
Northfield harbour and village, iL Ber- 
wick, 287 
Northfield house, iv. Dumfries, 526 
Northfield house, xiii. Elgin, 37 
Northfield hou»c, iL Haddington, 310 
North Glaasmount house, ix. Fife, 810 
North Herbertstiire, district of^ viii. Stir- 
ling, 116 
Northhill, coins found at, xi. Kincardine, 

131 
Northhouse haugh, Pictish remains at, iii. 

Roxbuigh, 433 
North Knapdale, parish of^ vil Aigyle, 631 
North Leith, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 779 
North mains of Gladston collieries, ii. 

Haddington, 175 
Northmaving, parish of, xv. Shetland, 70 
North Medwin water, vL L«anark, 42, 52, 

944 
North Middleton, village of, i. Edinburgh, 

185 
North Morar, district of, xiv. Inverness, 

129 
North Peraie, chapel at, x. Perth, 1199 
North Queensferrv, village, &c. of, ix. 

Fife, 237, 242, 244. 876 
North Queich water, ix. Kinross, 54 
North Roe chapel, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 

103 
North Ronaldsha, parish and island of, 

XV. Shetland, 75 
North Sannox water, v. Bute, 7 
North Sutor of Cromarty, the, xiv. Ross, 

19, 22, 30 
North Synton, plantations at, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 272 
North Ugie water, xii. Aberdeen, 1 37 
North Uist island and parish, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 159 
Northwall, district of, xv. Orkney, 1 33-— 

ruins of chapel at, 141 
Northwater, the, i. Edinburgh, 49 
Northwater, the, xi. Forfar, 264— bridge, 

268, Kincardine, 299 
North-west castle, iv. Wi^n, 85 
North Yell, annexed parish of, xv. Shet- 
land, 23 
Norton house, i. Edinburgh, 92 
Norwick bay, xv. Shetland, 38— burial 

ground, 40 
Noss cave, x v. Caithness, 1 1 8 — ^head, 118, 

119— house, 142— loch, 123 
Noes isle and sound, xv. Shetland, 1^ 9 — 
ruins of chapel at| 12 



Note o* the Gate, the, iii. Roxburgh, 99 
Noth hill, vitrified fort on, xii Aberdeen, 

845, 1015 
Nottingham, geological appearances at, 

XV. Caithness, 87 
No\iir bum, xiv. Ross, 313 — house, 86ff 

— plantations at, 346 
Novar, property of, xv. Sutherland, 31 
Nuns' cave, the, vii. Argyle, 300 
Nuns' hill, the, x. Perth, 1107 
Nuns' well, the, ii. Berwick, 182 
Nungate of Haddington, the, ii Hadding- 
ton, 13 
Nunraw bum, ii. Haddington, 62 — house, 

96 
Nunsburgh house, ruins at, xv. Shetland, 

111— ness, 101 
Nuntown, nunnery at, xiv. Inverness, 188 
Nutholm hill, iv. Dumfries, 204, 206, 207 

—lead ore at, 207 
Nutwood house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 356, 

365 
Nybster rocks, xv. Caithness, 117 
Nydie hills, ix. Fiffe, 720— quarries* 475 
Oa, mull of, vii. Argyle, 645, 661 
Oaken bank, the, xiii. Banff, 98 
Oaken brae, remains found at, iii Peebles. 

87 
Oakenwall, property of, xiii Elgin, 228 — 

castle, ruins of, 232 
Oakfield, village of. ix, Fifb, 176 
Oakley house, ix. Fife, 799— loch, 728 
Oakshaw clay field, vii Renfrew, 156 
Oakwood castle, ruins of, iii Selkirk, 8 
Oar water, ix. Fife, 128, 148, 166, 168, 

195 
Oathlaw or Finavon, parish o^ xi Forfar. 

291-.hiU, 626 
Oban bay, vii Argyle, 529— town and 

quoad tacra pariiSi o^ iL, 530, 532 
Obbe bum, xiv. Inverness, 156 
Obinag harbour, xiv. Ross, 186 
Obney hills, x. Perth, 426— quarries* 428 
Ocal, cave at, vii Argyle, 129 
Occlester, market at, xv. Orlmey, 189 
Ocheltree hill, remains on, iv. Wigton. 

232 
Ochil hills, viii Clackmannan, 66, 67, 76, 

77, StirUng, 176, 215, 219, ix. Fife, 

426, 53-2, 632, 775, Kinross, 1, 53, 70, 

x. Perth, 285, 298, 301, 302, 333, 839, 

862,882,949,1017, 1172 
Ochiltree, parish of, v. Ayr, 105 — castle, 

ruins of, ib. 109 — village, 113 
Ochiltree, Roman camp at, ii Linlitln 

gow, 175 
Ochterlony, churchyard at, xi Forfiu-, 

607— house, 608 
Ochtertyre house, x. Perth, 727, 741— 

fiills at, 727— trees at, 1256 
Ochto, mission of^ xiv. Ross, 428 
Od ness, xv. Orkney, 1 57 
Odin'ft cave, vii Aigyle, 279 
Odinswick bay> xv. Otkk«^^^^ 



cxii 



QBNERAL INDEX. 



Ofkn bridge, mini of, ¥121 Stirling, 52 
Ogilface ci^e, ruins of, ii. Linlithgow, 50 
Ogilvic, glen of, xi. Forfar, 339 — castle, 

ruins o(, 345 
Ogilvy castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 299 
Ogle house, xi. Forfiir, 200 
Ogle glen, x. Perth, 345 
Ogston, suppressed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 

145 
Oich loch, xiv. Inverness, 504 — water, 51 
Oikell water, xiv. Ross, 404, 420— xv. 

Sutherland, 17,212,214 
Oilean Duhh, the, xiv. Ross, 38 
Oishnie loch, x. Perth, 996 
Old Auchenaim, \illage of, vL Lanark, 

408 
Old bridge of Earn, x. Perth, 811 
Oldcake, remains found at, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 155 
Old Cambus, annexed parish of, ii Ber* 

wick, 290 
Oldcastle, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 594, 

595 
Old Cathcart, village of, vii. Renfrew, 506 
Old Cauldron loch, iv. Dumfries, 452 
Old Cumnock, parish of, v. Ayr, 476 
Old Craighall, village of, I Edinburgh, 

294 
Old Dailly, ruins of church at, v. Ayr 

385 
Old Deer, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 138 — 

village, 150 
Old Dun, ruins of the, viii. Dunbarton, 75 
Old Dunskev, ruins of castle of, iv. Wig- 
ton, 132, 134, 142 
Old Ettrick hill, iii. Selkirk, 60 
Old Fingland bum, iii. Peebles, 59 
Old Glencrieff lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 

300, 3(13 
Old Oraitncy tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 

266 — Druidical remains at, 267 
Old Greenlaw farm, ii. Berwick, 40 
Oldhall, ruins of, \'iii. Stirling, 53 
Oldhamstocks, parish of, il Haddington, 

355— village, 356 
Old Harestanes, Druidical circles at, iii. 

Peebles, 129 
Oldhaven, l>Ay of, xiii. Ranif, 274, 275 — 

den of, 273 
Oldhill, marl bed at, vi. I^mark, 570 
Old Jedburgh, ruins of chapel at, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 8 
Old Keig, Druidical remains at, xii. Aber- 
deen, 947 
Old Keith, village of, xiii. Banff, 389, 390 
Old Kilpatrick, pariah of, \iii. Dunbarton, 

15— village, i7». 23,29 
Old Kirk,Fetlar, ruins of, xv. Shetland, 25 
Old Kirk, Gladsmuir, ruins of, ii. Had- 
dington, 173 
Old Kirk's wa\ the, vi. I^anark, 852 
Old Luce, parish of, iv. Wigton, 66 
Old Machar, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 6, 

1074 
Old Man of Hoy, the, xv. Orkney, 49 

4 



Old Meldrum, village of, zii Abotk 

478, 480 
Old Melrose house, iii Rozbiugfa, ^ 

vilkge, 51, 56 
Old Monkland, parish o£, vi Lanaik,6 

—collieries, 642 — ^iron works, 646 
Old Montrose, property of. xi Forfiir, I 

1 16, 1 18_harbour, 120 
Oldmore hill, xiii. Banff, 389 
Old Newton, chapel at, ii Berwick. 1 

— quarry, 176 
Oldney harbour, xv. Sutherland, 115 

isle, 106 
Old North houw, iii Roxburgh, 430 
Old Physic garden, the, i Edinbuigh,6: 
Old Place glen, viii Stirling, 147 
Old Place, village of, vi. Lanark, 321 
Old Place of Loudoun, Umeworks. v. Ai 

835 â–  

Old Place of Mochrum, ruins of; iv. \Vi 

ton, 62 
Old Posso tower, ruins o^ iii. Peebles, 1 
Old Rain, \'illage of, xii. Aberdeen, 42< 
Old Rattray, village o^ x. Perth, 242, 2^ 

246 
Old Rome colliery, v. Ayr, 668 
Oldshields, Druidical remains at, vi. I 

nark, 363 
Oldwalls tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 4 
Oldwells quarry, iv. Dumfries, 453 
Old Wife's point, vii Argyle, 347 
Olgnimore, ruins of chapel at, xv. Caii 

ness, 74 

Oliver tower, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 63 

castle, 64 
Oliver's Knoll, ix. Fife, 413 
Oliver's mounts, i. Edinburgh, 275 
Ollaberry church, ruins of, xv. Shetlai 

75 
Olla's voe, xv. Shetland, 100 
Olrick, parish of, xv. Caithness, 59— hi 

remains on, 61 
Omachie quarrj-, xi. Forfar, 540 
Omoa ironworks and village, vi. Lanai 

631,793 
Oon path, the, viii Stirling, 357 
Oran, chapel and burial place of, vii A 

gyle, 333 
Oransay isle, vii Argyle, 121, 165. 191 

534, 544^house, 545— priory, ruins o 

if). 

Orbiston, Owenite establishment at, r 

Lanark, 780 
Orbost house, xiv. Inverness, 329, 341 
Orchard park, ii. Haddington, 275 
Orchard collieries, vi. Lanark, 568, 590 
Orchartl house, viii Stirling 156 
Orchardton house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 363 
Orchard ton bay and sands, iv. Wigton, 23 
Orchardtown limeworks, viii Dunbarton, 

182 
Orchill bum, xiii. Banff, 359, 360 
OrchiU muir, x. Perth, 312— plantations, 

318 
Ord hill, xii Aberdeen, 873 



OEKEBAL INDEX. 



CXIU 



Ord, chapel at, xiii. Banff, 175 — hill, 5 
Ord house, xiv. Roas, 401— distillery, ib. 

— muir, 381, Inverness, 366— fieur, 371 
Ord of Bressay, xv. Shetland, 8, 10 
Ord of Caithness, xv. Caithness, 84, 85, 

Sutherland, 189, 190, 196 
Ord of Keasock, xiv. Ross, 384 
Ordbanhill, xiii. Elgin, 137 
Ordfundlie hill, xii. Aberdeen, 832 
Ordie loch, x. Perth, 673, 995— water, 1 63, 

164, 199, 426 
Ordiquhill, parish of, xiii. Banff, 79 
Orinsay isle, xiv. Inverness, 163 
Orkney isles, the, xv. Orkney, 206— li- 
brary, 11 
Ormaclet, &ir at, xiv. Inverness, 195 
Ormidale house, vii. Argyie, 673 
Ormin, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 135, 149,150 
Ormiston hill, L Edinburgh, 438 
Ormiston hill house, i. Edinburgh, 442 
Ormiston, parish of, ii. Haddington, 130 

—collieries, 1 32— cross, 14 1— hall, 1 30, 

132, 134, 142— quarries, 132— village, 

131, 145 
Ormiston, barony of, iii. Roxburgh, 221— 

tower, ruins of^ 131, 223 
Ormond hill, xiv. Ross, 384, 390 
Ormsaig, cairns at, vii. Argyie, 147 
Ormsary house, vii. Argyie, 262 
Oronsay, promontory of, xiv. Inverness, 

183 
Orphan hospital, ^e, i. Edinburgh, 724 
Orphir, parish of, xv. Orkney, 1 3 
Orr bridge, village of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

260 
Orrea, Roman station of, x. Perth, 1 69 
Orrin water, xiv. Ross, 367, 399, 400 
Orrock hill, ix. Fife, 405, 407 
Orroland house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 360, 

365 
Orsay isle and lighthouse, vii. Argyie, 651 
Orton house, xiii. Banff, 360 
Orton chapel, ruins of, xiii. Elgin, 233— 

property and house, 230 — vale, 228 
Orwell, parish of, ix. Kinross, 52 — braes, 

53 — church, 59 — standing stones at, 56 
Oscar loch, vii. Argyie, 229 
Oscar'a bay, vii. Argyie, 229 
Osnaburgh, village of, ix. Fife, 774 
Osmond stone, bed of, vi. Lanark, 883 
Ospisdale, plantations at, xv. Sutherland, 

19 
Osse Skerry, the, xv. Shetland, 72 
Ossian'b grave, x. Perth, 264 
Otter house, vii. Argyie, 366— sandbank, 

363,366 
Otters' bum, the, iv. Wigton, 123 
Otterbum, farm of, ii. Berwick, 94 
OtterstoB house and loch, ix. Fifb, 181, 

182 
Ottcrswick bay, xv. Orkney, 86, 87, 133, 

193 
Ottirvore bay, xiv. Inverness, 200 
Ouan loch, x. Perth, 726 
Oude water, vii Argyie, 65 

VOL. XV. 



\ 



Our I^y's hospital, i. Edinbuigh, 667 

Our Lady's well, vi. Lanark, 445 

Ousie loch, xiv. Ross, 215 

Outh quarry, ix. Fife, 840 

Over Ancrum, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 
242 

Over Bervie, see Glenbervie 

Overbie, camp of, iv. Dumfries, 401 

Overbister, d^rict of, xv. Oikney, 133— 
ruins of chapel at, 141 

Overbrae, hill of, xiii. Banff, 295 

Overhall house, xii. Aberdeen, 894 

Over Kellie, limestone at, ix. Fife, 916 

Overlee, remains found at, vii. Renfrew, 
501 

Overmains, Hmestone oi, ii Berwick, 53 

Over Skibo, property of, xv. Sutherland, 
4 

Overton haugh, vi. Lanark, 257— pro- 
perty, 304 

Overton paper-mill, viL Renfrew, 442— 
village, 200 

Overton, village of, iii Roxbui^h, 142 

Oxcleu^ bum, iii. Selkirk, 36 

Oxenford castle, i. Edinburgh, 193 

Oxenham, see Oxnam 

Oxgang, cliffs at, viii. Dunbarton, 173 — 
property of, 193— nuns of church at, 
205 

Oxhill bum, xiii. Banff, ^47 

Oxnam, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 252 — 
water, 2, 177, 253, 254, 428 

Oxton, village of, ii. Berwick, 89 

Oykell river, xiv. Ross, 404, 420, xv. Su- 
therland, 17, 212, 214 

Oyne, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 634 

Pabay, ruins of nimnery at, xiv. Ross, 153 

Pabba isle, xiv. Inverness, 155, 200, 302 
— ruins of chapel on, 305 

Packman^ Isle, the, vii. Renfrew, 5 

Pad hill, vii. Renfrew, 309 

Paddock, witch burnt at, xiv. Inverness,- 
469 

Paddock stane, the, xi. For&r, 575 

Paisley abbey, viL Renfrew, 168, 203 — 
house, 193— town, 135 

Paisley and Renfrew railway, m Ren- 
frew, 279, 561 

Paiston, barony of, ii. Haddington, 130, 
139— villages, 142 

Palace Craig colliery, vi. Lanark, 644 — 
ironstone pits, 647 

Paldy, ancient parish of, xi. Kincardine, 
66 

Palharrow bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 869 

Pahnallet, caves at, iv. Wigton, 23 — re- 
mains at, 25 

Palm my arm, monument called, vii. 
Renfrew, 14 

Palnackie, village o^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 
211,214 

Palnure water,! v. Kirkcudbright,! 18, 120 

Pamilion, see Pomilion 



CXIV 



OBNBRAL IKDBX. 



Panels^ stone, the, v.' Bute, 54 
Panhope harbour, xv. Orkney, 77 
Panlandfl, bacon curing at, iv. DumfKea, 

164 
Panmure woods, xL Forfiu', 68— castle, 

ruins of, 69 — house, tb. 
Pans, port of, xiii. Eljpn, 7 
Panteth hill, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 445 
Pap of Caithness hill, xt. Caithness, 84 
Paps of Jura, vii Areyle, 535 
Papa sound, xt. Orkney, 157, Shetland, 

19 
Papa isle, xt. Shetland, 9 
Papa little, isle, xt. Shetland, 101, 102 
Papa Stour isle, xt. Shetland, 19 
Papa Stronsay isle, xt. Orkney, 1 57 
Papa Westray isle, xt. Orkney, 1 1 7 
Papal Toe, xt. Shetland, 24 
Papi goe, XT. Caithness, 118 
Paplay, annexed parish of, xt. Orkney, 

204, 218 
Papple, monastery at, ii. Haddington, 66 
Paps of Jura hills, TiL Argyle, 535 
Paradise wood, xii. Aberdeen, 460 
Parallel roads of Glenroy, the, xiv. InTer- 

ness, 505 
Parbroath castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 645 
Parcock, tree of, xii Aberdeen, 476 
Parf, district of, xt. Sutherland, 83 
Parisholm, ruins of castle at, Ti. Lanark, 

484 
Park, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 885, 892 

— house, 889 — Druidical remains at, 

150 
Park quarr}', v. Ayr, 51 1 
Park house, xiii. Banff, 81 — loch, 214 
Park bum, iT. Dumfries, 500, 503 
Park hill, xi. Forfar, 494 — quarrr, 599, 

600 
Park, camp at, ii. Haddington, 96 
Park, mineral spring at, Ti. Lanark, 316 

—bum, 315, 945 
Park quarries, Tii. Renfrew, 125, 127 
Park castle, ruins of, iT. Wigton, 69 
Park of Fodderty, monumental stones at, 

xiv. Ross, 254 
Park of Lewis, the, xiv. Ross, 157 
Parkbeg, garnets found at, xiiL Banff, 104 
Parkend quarr}-, t. Ayr, 438 
Parkend, village of, ii Berwick, 208 
Parkhall colliery, viii. Stirling, 209 
Parkhead bum, Ti. Lanark, 4/9 — Tillage, 

793 
Parkhill house and plantations, xii. Aber- 
deen, 1027, 1029 
Parkhill house, Polmont, viii. Stirling, 195 
Parkhill house, St Vigeans, xi. Forfiur, 497 
Parkhouse toll, vi. I^nark, 700 
Parkmoor, camp at, v. Ayr, 754 
Parknook, village of, ix. Fife, 874 
Parliament house, Edinburgh, i. Edin- 
burgh, 716 
Parliament house, SlirUn^, ^\i. Stirling, 

404 
Parliament sq uare, ¥aMaTid,\Tt. T\fe,^^l 



v 



Parnassus hill, riii Dunbarton, 24 1 
Parnassus hill, iii Roxbai^g^ 229 
Parson's lake, Tii Argyle, 65 
Parson's well, xii Aberdeen, 874 
Partick house, ruins of, Ti Lanark, 692 
— factory and mills, 206, 698, Tiii. Dun- 
barton, 38 — Tillage, Ti Lanark, 699 — 
urns found at, 690 
Parton, parish oC, iT. Kirkcudbright, 282 
Pataig water, xiT. InTemess, 419 
PataTieg loch, xIt. Ross, 264 
Paterson'a rock, Tii Argyle, 415 
Pathelly hall, ruins of, t. Ayr, 778 
Pathhead, Tillage of, t. Ayr, 520 
Pathhead, Tillage of, i Edinburgh, 59, 

60 
Pathhead, Tillage of, ix. Fife, 127, 135, 

139 
Pathhead, Tillage of, Tii. Renfrew, 504 
Patiemuir, Tillage of, ix. Fife, 874 
Patna collieries, t. Ayr, 276,336 — chapel, 

343— quarry, 336— tillage, 342 
Pattack water, xIt. InTemess, 505 
Paul's field, tradition regarding, xIt. Inrer- 

ncss, 171 
Paulyard bum, tI. Lanark, 848 
PaTiUon house, t. Ayr, 202 
Pawnwood colhery, ii Haddington, 175 
Paxton house, ii. Berwick, 152, 153— vil- 
lage, 154, 161 
Peacockbank tilework, t. Ayr, 737 
Peanfuhel, termination of Roman wall at, 

ii. Linlithgow, 26 
Pearsie liill,xi Forfer, 611 — house, 614, 

616 
Pease den and bridge, ii Berwick, 291, 

301,311 
Pease tree, vi Lanark, 9 
Pea^hill, antiquities found at, ix. Fife, .^87 
Peaston, barony of, ii Haddington, 130, 

139— villages, 142 
Peat knowe, the, iv. Wigton, 207 
Peat law, iii. Selkirk, 2 
Peattie bum, xi Kincardine, 2 — den, 3 — 

farm, 21 
Pebble hill, i v. Kirkcudbright, 314— mi- 
neral spring, 317 
Peblis to the Play, scene of, iii. Peebles, 

10 
Peden's cave and pulpit, v. Ayr, 159, 756 
Peebles, parish of, iii. Peebles, 1— town, 

tb. 4, 13, 16 
Peeblesshire, obsenrations on, iii. Peebles, 

175 
Peel fell, iii. Roxburgh, 441 
Peel of Dalzeli, ruins of, Ti LauM'k, 453 
Peel of Garfarran, Roman fort of, Tiii 

Stirling, 106 
Peel of Gargunnock, ruins of, Tiii Stir- 
ling, 51 
Peelbog, fort of, xii. Aberdeen, 1050, 
1089, 1090, 1095— supposed battle at, 
1061 
'^ftfeVw^^ Vwsafc «wi ^jTo^rtT, ii. Ber- 



OENBRAL IKDBX. 



cxv 



Pefler bum, il Haddington, 30, 31, 44, 

203, 204, 249, 250, 358— vale, 1 
Peifer or Peflbry water, xi v. Ross, 211, 

221,251 
Peindinavaig hJIl, xiv. Inveraefls, 218 
Peinduin, ruins of castle at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 258, 289 
Peingowen, lands of; xiv. Inverness, 285 
Peirceton, barony of, v. Ayr, 524 — house, 

525 
Pencaitland, parish of, ii. Haddington, 

344 — collieries, 346 — property, 347 
Pencraig quarry, ii. Haddington, 19 
Pencrestpen hill, ill. Roxburgh, 426, 427 
Pended tower, ruins of the, ix. Fife, 852 
Penduin castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 

289 
Penelheugh hill, iii. Roxburgh, 128 
Penick house, ruins of, xiii. Nairn, 1 2 
Penicuik, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 29 — 
prisoners' depot at, 33 — house, 37 — vil- 
lage, 38, 45 
Penkill water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 18, 1 19 
Penkiln, ruins of church at, iv. Wigton, 

28 
Penmachrie, property of, v. Bute, 75 
Penmanshiel wood, ii. Berwick, 299, 300 
Penmore house, v. Ayr, 529 
Pennan bay, xii Aberdeen, 260 ~ quarry, 

269— village, 265 
Pennel brae, minerals at, vii. Renfrew, 

360 
Penneltun, termination of the Roman 

wall at, ii. Linlithgow, 26 
Pennersaughs, annexed parish of, iv. 

Dumfries, 364 
Penninghame, parish of, iv. Wigton, 167 

—house, 171, 177, 178 
Penniwhigate water, i. Edinburgh, 403 
Pennon, rocks of, xiii. Banff, 285 
Penny stone, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 332 
Pennycross house, vii. Argyle, 306 
Pennyglen's cross well, v. Ayr, 366 
Pennymuir border tryst, iii. Roxburgh, 
205— camp on, 259— fairs, 266 — Ro- 
man road at, 196 
Penpont, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 499 — 

village, 474, 508 
Penria hill, camp on, iii. Peebles, 137 
Pcnshiel house, ruins of, ii. Haddington, 

66— chapel, 61, 66 
Penston house, ruins of, ii. Haddington, 
184 — collieries and village, 174, 186, 
193, 194— plantations, 177 
Pentland hills, i. Edinburgh, 30, 108,319, 
324, 544, vi. Lanark, 64 — battle of, i. 
Edinburgh, 315 — ancient parish of, 323 
—village, 335 
Pentland Frith, xv. Caithness, 21, 23, 35, 
Orkney, 71, 72 — Skerries and light- 
house, XV. Caithness, 23, Orkney, 72, 
191 
Pen ton linns, iv. Dumfries, 485 
Penwhcrry castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 529 
PepperweU oak, the, x, Perth, 146 



Perchhall loch, iv. Dumfries, 178 
Perclewan, Roman road, at, v. Ayr, 278 — 

remains found at, 279 
Percy hill, iii. Roxburgh, 448 
Perk hill, Macbeth's cairn on, xii. Aber- 
deen, 1092 
Persie hill, x. Perth, 1178, 1198— mine- 
ral spring, 1181 
Perth, town of, x. Perth, 1 
Perthshire, summary of statistics oi^ x. 

Perth, 1289 
Petcox, village of, ii. Haddington, 59 
Peter lurk, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 141 
Peterculter, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 105 
Peterhead bay, xii. Aberdeen, 345 — par 
rish of, 344— town, 345, 356— granite 
quarries, 363, 364 
Pettie, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 375 
Pettinain, parish of, vi. Ijanark, 535 — vil- 
lage, 540 
Pettycur harbour, &c. ix. Fife, 801, 815 
Petyn, suppressed parish of, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 375 
Phadric craig, xiv. Inverness, 2, 8 — vitri- 
fied fort, 13 
Phantassie, estate of, ii. Haddington, 21 
Pharay isle, xv. Orkney, 75, 78, 157, 158 
Phesdo house, xi. Kincardine, 25, 87 — 
improvements at, 87 — plantations, 69, 
78 
Philliphaugh, battle of, iii. Selkirk, 3 
Philogar, farm of, iii. Roxburgh, 193 
Philorth house, xii. Aberdeen, 250— wa- 
ter, 251,296 
Phipstown, village of^ ii. Linlithgow, 30 
Phona, ruins of chapel at, xiii. Banff, 133 
Phorp, property of^ xiii. Elgin, 242 
Phuil loch, X. Perth, 345 
Physgill, caves at, iv. Wigton, 37 — house, 

41 
Phvsic gardens, Edinburgh, L Edinburgh, 

691 
Physic well, Lochmaben, iv. Dumfries, 378 
— Carluke, vi. Lanark, 565 — Turiff, xiL 
Aberdeen, 983 
Physicians' hall, Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 

686 
Picardy stone, xii. Aberdeen, 751 
Pickcrston hill collieries, vi. Lanark, 775 
Picket law, vii. Renfrew, 385 
Pick Maw hill, iii. Roxburgh, 25 
Picrowall bay, xv. Orkney, 115 — village, 

130 
Picts' mill, Glammiss, xi. Forfar, 346 
Picture gallerv, the, Hamilton palace, vi. 

Lanark, 272 
Piel house, vi. Lanark, 879 
Pidourin bum, vL Lanark, 479 
Pigeons' cave, vii. Argyle, 395 
Pilnure burn, iv. Wigton, 233 
Piltanton, see Pooltanton 
Pingarie craig, coins found at, iv. Dum- 
fries, 475 
Piniel hevL^\\ Vx\\\, \v\. V^^t>«n\x^^ W^ — 
caTX\p« on, Wl 



CXVl 



aENEBAL INDEX. 



Pinkerton bill, Tiii. Dunbarton, 21 1 
Pinkerton, rock» at, xi. Forfar, 144 
Pinkie, battle of, i, Edinburgh, 2&4— 

house, 279 
Phikie> hole, iu. Peebles, 123 
Plnmore house, v. Ayr, 395 
Pinnacle hill house, iii. Roxburgh, 320 — 

plantations, 327 
Piotshaw coal, vi. Lanark, 625, 642, 774 
Piper dam loch, xi. Forfer, 461 
Pipers' cove, iv. Kirkcudbright, 215 
Pirn house, i. Edinbui^h, 417 
Pimtaiton, Roman camp at, i. Edinburgh, 

416 
. Pistol plantings, the, ii Berwick, 169 
Pitalpie, battle of, xi. Forfer, 16— tradi- 
tion regarding, 579 
Pitbeadlav cave, xi. Kincardine, 282— 

hill, 270 
Pitblado house, ix. Fife, 8 
Pitcairly wood, ix. Fife, 62 
Pitcaini bleachfield, x. Perth, 188, 190—- 

camp at, 171 
Pitcaple castle, xii. Aberdeen, 564, 565 — 

house, 572, 582 
Pitcon colliery, v. Ayr, 232 
Pitcorthie, monumental stone at, ix. Fife, 

976 
Pitcullo castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 223 
Pitcur cairn, xi. Forfar, 643 — castle, ruins 

of, ib. — quarries, 642 
Pitdinnes plantations, ix. Fife, 696 
Piteadie castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 81 
Pitfaney quarries, xii. Aberdeen, 600 
Pitfichie castle, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 

463 
Pitfodels plantations, xi. Kincardine, 181 
Pitfour house, xii. Aberdeen, 150 
Pitfour castle, x. Perth, 627 
Pitgair bum, xiii. Banff, 275— ruins of 

castle at, 284 
Pitgrudie, farm of, xv. Sutherland, 9 
Pitjossie, natural arch at, xii. Aberdeen, 

295 
Pitkaithley mineral spring, x. Perth, 792 
Pitkecrie wood, ix. Fife, 913 
Pitkcrro, property of, xi. Forfar, 21 
Pitlessie hill, ix.'Fife, 558— quarrv, 570 

^village, 568, 574 
Pitlochrie bum, xi. Forfar, 421 
Pitlochrie, village of, x. Perth, 659 
Pitlmidy hill, xiv. Ross, 384 
Pitlyal loch, xi. Forfar, 456 
Pitmain, Roman camp at, xiv. Inverness, 

71 
Pitmeddan house, xii. Aberdeen, 132 — 

gardens, 135 
Pitmuies house, xi. Forfar, 387 — remains 

at, 386 
Pitnamoon, improvements at, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 87 
Pitnapies, village of, xi. Forfar, 562 
Pitormie house, ix. Fife, 771 
Pitrcavie, battle of, \x. Fife, ft^h 
Pitreavie's hospital ix. Y\fe, ^^4 



Pitrodie burn, x. Perth, 1163— -Tillage, 

1166 
Pitscandly hiU, xiw Forfer, 597, 598— 

house, 606, 608 — ^remains at, 606 
Pitscottie quarry, ix» Fife, 518— spimung 

mills, 527 
Pitsligo, pmish of^ xii. Aberdeen, 396— 

castle, ruins of, 398 
Pitt statue, the, i. Edinbuigh, 655 
Pittairthy castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 365 
Pittaris hill, xi. Forfer. 246 
Pittarrow house, xL Kincardine, 81^ 

plantations, 78 — tower, ruins of^ 88 
Pittencrieif glen, ix. Fife, 822— quarry, 

841 
Pittendriech, origin drnaineof,ix. Fife, 366 
Pittenweem, parish of, ix* Fif5e, 985 — 

priory, 985— town, 984 
Pittfteld quarry,, vi. Lanark, 18 
Pittheaveless, village of; x. Perth, 86, 97 
Pittodrie house, xii. Aberdeen, 572, 582, 

639— plantations, 636— quarries, 562 
Pittrichie house, xiL Aberdeen, 132 
Pittulie castle, ruins of, xii Aberdeen, 

389— village, 399, 402 
Place of Cleisb, ndns of, ix. Kinross, 41 
Place of Paisley, ruins ef, vii. Renfrew, 

193 
Place of Symington, ruins of, Ti» Lanark, 

870 
Pladda isle and lighthouse, v. Bute, 41 
Plaidy, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 991 
Plainemile tower, ruins of, viii. Stirling, 

363 
Platane or Plater forest, xL Forfar, 170, 

294 
! Piatt hilL i. Edinburgh, 77— camp on, 90 
Playfair monument, i. Edinburgh, 655 
Plea brae, the, iiu Roxburgh, 118 
Plean collieries, viii. Stirling, 309, 310, 

331 — moor, 317 — qvoad sacra parish 

of, 335- woods, 313 
Plean mill, ruins of fort at, viii.' Stirling, 

323 
Pleasance, origin of name o^ L Edin- 
burgh, 657 
Pleasance, village of, vi. Lanark, 737 
Pleasantfield, remarkable trees at, v. 

Ayr, 3 
Plenderleath chapel, ruins of, iii. Rox- 

l)urgh, 258 
Pley fauld, the, xii. Aberdeen, 569 
Pkxlda, fell of, xiv. Inverness, 485 
Flora bum, iiu Peebles, 39 
Plotcock colliery, vi. Jjanark, 258 
Plunton castle, ruins of, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 54 
Pluscarden abbey, ruins of, xiii. Elgin 8 

—hill, 111— valley, 1,3, 240 
i Poddocklaw, remains found at, xiii. Banff, 

, Point house, vi. Lanark, 670, vii. Ren- 
frew, 4 
\ Vwcv\.Vvcv\aaft,tvimulu8 at, v. Bute, 103 



GENERAL INDEX. 



CXVll 



Polbeath burn, y. Ayr, 536 
Polgarre, village of, x. Perth, 382 
Polgree water, v. Ayr, 692 
Polla water, xv. Sutherland, 166 
Poll-dubh, spring of, xii. Aberdeen, 1071 
Poll-nan-Ron, pool called, xiv. Rom, 20 
Polio bridge, xiv. Ross, 309 
Pollock water, vii. Argyle, 124 
Pollock, parish of, vil Renfrew, 33 — pro- 
perty, 521— and Qovan railway, 561 
Pollockshaws printfield, vi. Lanark, 157 

— village, viL Renfrew, 40, 41 
Polmadie, hospital of, vi. Lanark, 687 
Polmailly, geology of, xiv. Inverness, 40 

— house, 43 
Polmaise, property of, viiL Stirling, 328 
Polmont, parish of, viii. Stirling, 191— 

house, 195 
Polmontbank house, viii. Stirb'ng, 195 
Polmont park house, viii. Stirling, 195 
Polmood bum, iii. Peebles, 59 — remains 

found at, 87 
Polmunckshead, property of, vi, Lanark, 

487 
Polnessan, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 278 
Polnoon castle, ruins of, \'ii. Renfrew, 395 

—lodge, 354 
Polquhaim, ironstone at, v. A}T, 1 06 
Polquhaise lime works, v. Ayr, 511 — re- 
mains found at, 517 
Polquhortor limeworks, v. Ayr, 51 1 
Pol Roag bay, xiv. Inverness, 326 
Poltairve bay, lii. Argyle, 302 
Poltalloch, view from, vii. Argyle, 648 
Poltanton, see Pooltanton 
Poltiel loch, xiv. Inverness, 323, 326 
Poltry quarry, vi. Lanark, 649 
Polwarth, parish of, ii. Berwick, 231— vil- 
lage, 233 
Pomilion, see Powmilion 
Pomona isle, x v. Orkney, 1, 13, 26,40, 

41,67,148,169, 196,204 
Ponessan, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 39 
Ponfeigh bum, vi. Lanark, 520 — colh'eries, 

372,811 
Poniel water, vi. Lanark, 31, 479 — cairns 

at, 485 
Poo, see Pow 

Pooldhulie bridge, xii. Aberdeen, 554 
Poolewe, old ironworks at, xiv. Ross, 93 — 

quocid sacra parish of, 98 
Poolflasgan bridge, xiii. Elgin, 63 
Pooltanton water, iv. Wigton, 67,82, 125, 

130, 135, 163 
Porras hill, iii. Peebles, 30 
Port of Menteith, parish of, x. Perth, 

1095— village, 1102 
Port of Spittal moss, iv. Wigton, 1 16 
Port of the Atholemen, the, vii. Argyle, 

52 
Port Allan bay, iv. Wigton, 23 
Port Allen, village and harbour of, x. 

Perth, 382, 394, 395 
Port Ankill, remains at, iv. Wigton, 208 
Port an Righ, Nigg, xiv. Ross, 24 



Port Bannatyne, village of^ v. Bute, 105 
111, 112 

Port Chaistel, ruins of castle at, xiv. Ross, 
460 

Port Charlotte, village of, vil Argyle, 652, 
655 

Port Corkrie bay, iv. Wigton, 201 

Port Gumming, village of, xiiL Elgin, 38, 
40 

Porteasy harbour, xiii. Elgin^ 250 — vil- 
lage, 260 

Port Edgar harbour, ii. Linlithgow, 2 

Portellen bay, vii. Argyle, 660 — >'illage, 
664, 665 

Port Elphinstone, village of^xii Aberdeen, 
660, 664 — canal, 663 

Porterfield collieries, vil Renfrew, 8 

Porterstoun, limestone, &c. at, iv. Dum- 
fries, 462, 463 

Port Gill bay, iv. Wigton, 201 

Portr Glasgow, pariah and town of^ vii. 
Renfrew, 62 

Port Gordon, village and harbour of, xiii. 
Banff, 247, 250, 260 

Port Gower, village of, xv. Sutherland, 
192, 194, 202, 208— wood at, 196 

Portincross castle, ruins of, v. Bute, 70, 
Ayr, 255 — caves and headland, 244 — 
harbour, 264 

Port Kale, iv. Wigton, 133,. 134 

Port Kill, remains found at, viii. Dun- 
barton, 117 

Portlethen harbour, xi. Kincardine, 178, 
184— chapel at, 185, 189 

Portlich, village of, xiv. Ross, 308, 309 

Port Logan harl)Our and village, iv. Wig- 
ton, 201, 209, 215 

Portmaholmack, \illage of, xiv. Ross, 460, 
463 — stone coffins found at, 461 

Portmaluag, vii. Argyle, 223 

Portmary house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 360, 
366 

Portmoak, parish of, ix. Kinross, 30 

Portmontgomery, village of, iv. Wigton, 
129 

Portmore bay', iv. Wigton, 103 

Portmoulin, iv. Wigton, 104, 105 

Portmurray, iv. Wigton, 132 

Portnacroish, village of, vii. Aigyle, 251 

Portnaculter water, xv. Sutherland, 212, 
215 

Portnaguiran quarry, xiv. Ross, 132 

Portnahaven, village of, vii. Aigyle, 651 

Portnamurloch, harbour of, vii. Ai;gyle, 
22 

PortnesBock bay, iv. Wigton, 201 

Portnockie, chapel at, xiii. Banff, 266 — 
village of, 250, 260 

Portobello, village of^ i. Edinburgh, 390, 
392 

Portonkill bay, iv. Wigton, 201 

Port Our harbour, xv. Sutherland, 101 

Portpatrick, parish of, iv. Wigton, 129— 
town and harbour^ 132 



CXVlll 



GENERAL IHDBX. 



Portramny harbour, vii. Argyle, 2*29— 

village, 251 
Portree, parish of, xiv. Invemefls, 218 — 

harbour, ib. 231~locb, 218, 219 
Portsoy, bay of, xiii. Banff, \79^quoad 

sacra parish, 178 — town, 190, 191 
Portsoy, village of, rl Forfar, 663 
PortuiBgen bay, viL Argyle, 302 
Portvasgo, rocks at, xv. Sutherland, 170 

^-quarry, 179 
Port Whapple, bay of; iv. Wigton, 23 
Port William, village of, iv. Wigton, 65 
Port Wyms, village of, vii. Argyle, 652, 

655 
Posso tower, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 116 
Pot bum, xiv. Ross, 20 
Potarch bridge, xi. Kincardine, 330, xil 

Aberdeen, 790, 1066 
Potbum, &rm-house of, iii Selkirk, 60 
Potento house, x. Perth, 235 
Pottie kirk, ruins of, x. Perth, 810 
Pow bum, V. Ayr, 169, 171, 667 
Pow bum, i. Edinburgh, 559 
Pow burn, ix. Kinross, 45, 52 
Pow bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 215 
Pow bum, X. Perth, 143, 249, 252, 748, 

1028 
Pow bum, viii. Stirling, 281, 340, 342 
Powrie castle, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 593 
Powfoot, village of, iv. Dumfries, 253 
Powfoulis house, viii. Stirb'ng, 283 
Powgree bum, v. Ayr, 574 
Powgarvie harbour, x. Perth, 836 
Powis house, xii. Aberdeen, 1076 
Powmill bridge, ix. Kinross, 45, 46 
Powniillion water, vi. I^nark, 302, 878, 

879 
Poyntzfield house, property, &c. xiv. 

Ross, 40, 43, 47 
Preaching brae, the, vi. Lanark, 420 
Preaching cave, v. Bute, 55 
Preaching walls, iv. Dumfries, 342 
Preceptory of St John's, Torphichen, ii. 

Linlithgow, 47 
Premnay, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 692 
Prenderguest property and house, ii. Ber- 
wick, 136 
Presholm house, xiii. Banff, 253, 255 
Pressmennan house, lake, &c. ii. Had- 
dington, 55 
Preston Hall, l Edinburgh, 194 — village 

of, 195 
Preston, annexed parish of, iL Berwick, 

115 — barony, 118 — bridge, 116 
Preston, battle of, ii. Haddington, 293, 

307 — cross and tower, 310 — village, 21, 

22,309, 313 
Preston, stone cross at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

238 
Preston isle, ii. Linlithgow, 121 
Prcstoncleuch, camp at, ii. Berwick, 119 
Prestonfield house, i. Edinburgh, 390 
Prestongrango colliery, W. Ha^w^ow, 

313— harbour, '2»4 
Prestonhall house, ix. V\fe«H 



Prestonholm mill, i. Edinbuqf^ 608^ 609 

—village, 609 
Prestonkirk, parish o^ ii. Haddington, 18 
Prehtonpans, parish o^ ii Haddington, 

304— village, 309, 313 
Prestwick, annexed parish of; v. Ayr, 169 

collieries, 171— nndhillfl, 2 — village^ 

174, 176 
Prestwick toll, village of, v. Ayr, 1 74, 176 
Priesthaugh, the, iii. Roxburgh, 4 28— fort, 

&c. at, 433 
Priesthill, Dalrymple, caim at, t. Ayr, 

280 
Priesthill, Liberton, L Edinboi)^, 8 
Priesthill, Muirkirk, farm o^ v. Ayr, 152 
Priesthope glen, iii Peeblesi, 27 
Priestinch bog, ii Linlithgow, 19 — col- 
j Hery, 20— hill, 1 8 
Priest isle, xiv. Ross, 74 
Priestlaw, camp at, ii. Haddington, 65 
Priestown of Kilbarchan, vii Renfrew, 

366 
Priest side, tradition regarding, iv. Dum- 

fne8,248 
Priests bum, ix. Fife, 49 
Priest's caim, xi Kincardine, 27 
Priest's craig well, xiii Banff, 255 
Priesfa crown, remains found at, iiL Rox- 
burgh, 227 
Priest's isle, vii Argyle, 97, 373 
Priest's land, v. Ayr, 364 
Priest's pool, vi Lanark, 503 
Priest's well, iii. Roxburgh, 227 
Primside loch, iii. Roxburgh, 160, 448, 

450 
PriucelB cave, Uist,xiv. Invemesa, 183 
Prince Edward's hill, vii Argyle, 423 
Printfield mills, xii. Aberdeen, 1077 
Prior walls, Crail, ix. Fife, 964 
Prior's well, ix. Fife, 580 
Prior's wood, iii Roxburgh, 61 
Prior Lctham Sycamore, the. ix. 306 
Priorlidcn orchis, iv. Dumfries, 488 
Priorv of Coldhigham, ii. Berwick, 282 
Priory of Crail, ix. Fife, 964 
Priory of Fy vie, xii. Aberdeen, 327 
Priory of Inchmahone, x. Perth, 1105 
Priory of Halgreen, iv. Dumfries, 490 
Priorv of North Berwick, ii. Haddington, 

326 
Priory of Pittenweem, ix. Fife, 985 
Priory of St Marv'S isle, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 22 
Prior)' of St Scrvanus, ix. Kinross, 30, 33 
Priory holm, the, iv. Dumfries, 483 
Priosmhcjill hilL, xiv. Inverness, 295 
Privick mill, v. Ayr, 747 
Proaig bay, vii. Argyle, 661 
Prora, property of, ii Haddington, 45 
Proscn glen, xi Forfar, 158 — water, 159, 

165,435,611 
Proudfoot, rocks at, xv, Caithness, 1 18 — 

promontory, 1 1 9 
Vt^NQ(^% ^^»:^ tofl 'SVKxVXft^ iVve., ii Had- 



QBNERAL INDEX. 



CXIX 



Pu bum, the, viiL Stirling, 236 
Puddle burn, iu Haddington, 146 
Puddough bum, vii. Renfrew, 5 
Puidrac, obelisk of, x. Perth, 346 
Pulquhite, subterranean moss at, xii. 

Aberdeen, 730 
Pulroesie, property of, xv. Sutherland, 4 
Pultneytown, town of, xv. Caithness, 121, 

143, 154— church, 164 
Purophcrston castle, fuins of, i. Edinburgh, 

370 
Pundler*B know, barrow called, ix. Fife, 

106 
Purves hall, ii. Berwick, 55 
Purves hill, remains on, iii. Peebles, 30 
Purves haugh bridge, ii. Berwick, 348 
Puttenmill, sandstone of, ii. Berwick, 

268 
Pyketstane bin, iii. Peebles, 79, 121, 127 
Pykethowe hill, iii. Roxburgh, 427 
Pyot Dykes quarries, xL Forfiftr, 585 
Pyotshaw coal, vL Lanark, 566, 610 
Quaas, limestone at, iv. Diunfries, 453 
Quaich stone, xii. Aberdeen, 122 
Quaich glen, x. Perth, 703, 753— water, 

453,455,705,757,758,1018 
Quair water, iiL Peebles, 37, 39 
Quantemess, remains at, xv. Orkney, 213 
Quarff, annexed parish of, xv. Shetland, 

8 — church, &c. 11 
Quarrelbura quarry, viii. Clackmannan, 

83 
Quarrelton colliery, vii. Renfrew, 111,151 

—village, 190, 201, 249 
Quarrelwood, quarry at, iv. Dumfries, 54 
Quarol house, viii. Stirling, 362— village, 

375 
Quarolshore, village of, viii. Stirling, 342 
Quarry hill, iii. Roxburgh, 52 
Quarrypark quarries, xi. Forfar, 598, 599^ 

600 
Quarrywood.hill and quarries, xiii. Elgin, 

9,98 
Quarter, coal ut, v. Ayr, 791 
Quarter house,iii. Peebles, 86, 88— knowe, 

63 
Quarter collieries, vi. Lanark, 257 
Quarter house, viii Stirling, 382 
Quaw castle, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 1 3 
Queen Blearie's stone, vii. Renfrew, 14 
Queen Mary's chair, xi. Kincardine, 339 
Queensberry bay, iv. Dumfries, 245— vil- 
lage, i6. 253— hiU, 40, 77, 103, 124— 

rise of the Clyde at, vi. Lanark, 771 
Queen ti cairn, iii. Roxburgh, 457 
Queensferry, parish of, il Linlithgow, 1 — 

town, t6. 2, 9 
Queensferry, North, village of, ix. Fife, 

237, 242, 244, 876 
Quecn*s haugh, remains at, viii. Stirling, 

184 
Queen's hill, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 89 
Quecn^ house, ruins of the, ix. Fife, 851 
Queen> mire, the, iii. Roxburgh, 212 
Queen"^ road, xii Aberdeen, 599 



\ 



Queen's room, Borthwick, i Edinburgh, 

172— Cakemoor, 193 
Quecnside loch, vii. Renfrew, 82 
Queen's seat, Inveresk, i Edinburgh, 279 
Queen's seat, Cathkin, vi Lanark, 601 
Queich water, ix. Kinross, 54 
Quhitc camp, vi. Lajiark, 255 — property 

of, 268 
Quhyte Woollen hilh^ iv. Dumfries, 170, 

451 
Quien loch, v. Bute, 83, 84, 99 
Quinzieburn, viii Stirling, 146 — mill, 159 
Quiraing, scenery of, xiv. Inverness, 238 
Quoich glen, xiv. Inverness, 504 
Quothquhan, annexed parish of, vi Lanark, 

41 — house, 43 
Quoyhouse loch, xv. Shetland, 37 
Quoyloo, standing stone at, xv. Orkney, 54 
Quovness, Pictish remains at, xv. Orkney, 

137 
Quoys, limestone at, xv. Caithness, 24 
Quytefield chapel ruins of, xi. Forfiur, 241 
Ra, Ben, xv. Caithness, 13 
Rabbits' isles, the, xv. Sutherland, 167 
Race of Strangers, the, iv. Wigton, 134 
Rachan, tumuli at, iii. Peebles, 87— hill, 

78— house, 86, 87— lochs, 81— quai^ 

ries, 82 
Rackwick, gypsum at, v. Orkney, 50 
Radder castle, ruins of, xv. Caithness, 141 
Raderaie village and quarry, ix. Fife, 805, 

307 
Radh, Ben, xv. Caithness, 13 
Rae, loch, x. Perth. 1003 
Raeberry cattle, ruins of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

20 • 

Raebumfoot, Roman camp at, iv. Dum- 
fries, 266, 402 
Raecleuch, iv. Dumfries, 102 
Raecleuch, camps at, ii. Berwick, 72, 237 
Rae Dike, the, xi Kincardine, 129 
Raehills house, iv. Dumfries, 67, 154, 155, 

158 
Raemoor, property of, xi. Kincardine, 326 
Raes limeworks, v. Lanark, 569 
Raesgill, ironstone at, vi Lanark, 571— 

limeworks, 569 
Raiford, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 238— bum, 

241 
Raid of Pettie, scene of, xiv. Inverness, 516 
Raid of Reidswire, iii. Roxburgh, 103 
Raid of Ruthven, x. Perth, 1030 
Raigmore, improvements at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 455 — house, 16 
Rainieshills, plantations on, xii Aberdeen, 

1027 
Raining's school, xiv. Inverness, 1 7, 30 
Rainy castle, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 981 
Raiss castle, ruins of^ vii. Renfrew, 193 
Rait bum, x. Perth, 1163— village, 1166 
Rait castle, mins of, xiii. Nairn, 1, 9 
Raith house and property, ix. Fife, 153, 

801 — ^lake and grounds, 148 — tower, 

150, 153 



cxx 



OBHBRAL INDBZ. 



Raitts born, xIt. InyerneMy 84 — cave, 88 
Ralston house, vii. Renfrew, 198 — pro- 
perty, 585— village, 330 
Rammerscales house, iv. Dumfries, 374 
Ramna stacks rocks, xv. Shetland, 72 
Ramore, property of^ xiv. Roes, 435 
Ramphorlie castle, ruins o^ vii Renfrew, 

Ramsay harbour and village, vii Aigyle, 

229, 251 
Rancock Glen, v. Ayr, 352 
Randerstone headland, ix. Fife, 90 
Randie ford, viii. Stirling, 304, 307 
Randolph bridge, xiii. Elgin, 182 
Randolph house, viii. Stirling, 402— 

standing stones of, 324 
Randolph hill mills, viii. Stirling, 129 
RanfUrUe castle, ruins of, viii Renfrew, 

365— property of, 363 
Rangay loch, xv. Caithness, 86 
Range castle, camp called, iv. Dumfries, 

373 
Rankeilour house, ix. Fife, 41 
Rankle bum, iii. Selkirk, 61— ruins at, 

66 
Rannachie, battle of, xiii. BanfS^ 318— 

remains at, 255 
Rannes, cairn at, xiii. Banff, 254— house, 

249 
Rannoch bridge, xiii. Elgin, 182 
Rannoch, district of, x. Perth, 533 — loch, 

529, 538_lodge, 535 
Raploch, soil at, vi. Jjanork, 257— colliery, 

723— house, 726, 729 
Raploch village, viii. Stirling, 427, 432 
Rapness, rocks at, xv. Orkney, 1 14 — bav, 

115— head, 116 
Rorichie, spring at, xiv. Ross, 2 1 — Danish 

fort at, 24 
Rasay isle, xiv. Inverness, 219 — house, 

225— plantations, 224 — quarries, 222 
Rasay water, xiv. R^oss, 235, 236 
Rashelee quarry, vii. Renfrew, 127 
Ratagan, pass of, xiv. Ross, 182 
Rathad-na-murlich, the, xiii Elgin, 137 
Ruthen, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 293 
Rathillet hill and house, ix. Fife, 538— 

property, 551 
Rathmoreal church, ruins o^ xii. Aber- 
deen, 747 
Ratho, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 76 — house, 

92— village, 97 
Rathven, parish of, xiii. Banff, 245 — vil- 
lage, 260 
Rats hill, iii. Peebles, 80 • 
Rattray, burgh of, xii. Aberdeen, 708— 

head, 723 
Rattray, parish of, x. Perth, 239 — hill and 

castle, 241— village, 242, 243, 246 
Ravelaw, residence of Erskine at, ii. Ber- 
wick, 170 
Ravclrig hill, camp on, i. Edinburgh, 547 

— property, 549 
Ravelston, property of,i. E<imbur0\,216 

—quarries, 207 



I Ravencleug^ the, It. Dumfriea, 174 
' Ravenscraig castle, ruins o^xiL Aberdeen, 
196, 354 
Ravenscraig castle, ruins at, ix. Fiie, 138 
Ravenshaugh bum, ii Haddington, 357 
Ravensheugh point, ii Haddington, 31 
Ravenstmther, village of, vi Lanark, 560 
Raven\i rock, the, xiv. Ross, 246 
Ravonston loch, iv. Wigton, 1 1 
Raw, ironstone pit at, vi Lanark, 647 
Rawhead, caim at, vi Lanark, 891 
Rawmen quarry, vi Lanaik, 649 
Raync, parish of, xii Aberdeen, 421 
Rea, Kyle of, see Rhea 
Rearchar hills, xv. Sutherland, 2 
Reasknow, remains found at, iii Roxburv^, 

394 
Reattie, improvements at, xiii BaniF, 235 

— remains found in, 225 
Reawick ness, xy. Shetland, 103— house, 

115— wart of. 111 
Reay, parish ot, xv. Caithness, 12— dis- 
trict of, Sutherland, 8*2, 105, 118 — fo- 
rest, 122, 123 
Red Abbey stead, iii Roxbuigh, 58 
Red Bcard'a well, xi. Kincardine, 171 
Red burn of Irvine, v. Ayr, 619 
Redbum colliery, viii Dunbarton, 176 — 

bridge, remains at, 141 
Red bum, the, \-i Lanark, 315 
Red bum, the, xiii. Elgin, 196 
Red bum of Lewis, xiv. Roes, 152 
Red castle of Lunan, rains of, xi. For- 
far, 240, 325 
Redcastle house, xiv. Ross, 66 — improve- 
ments at, 68 — plantations, 65 — quar- 
ries, 66f Inverness, 22 
Redcoll house, ii Haddington, 176, 177, 

182, 192 
Redcraig quarn', xi. Kincardine, 226 
Redcraig hill, x'. Perth, 1096 
Redcraigs quarry, ix. Fife, 840 
Redden bum, iii. Roxburgh, 236 — haughs, 

235 
Redding colliery, v. Ayr, 836 
Redding collierj-, viii. Stirling, 193 — 

moor, 196 — village, ih, 
Redford, rocks at, viii Stirling, 207 
Redfriars monastery, Dunbar, ii Had- 
dington, 79 — Peebles, iii. Peebles, 4, 6, 
—Fail, V. Ayr, 748 
Redgill well, xiii. Banff, 148 
Redgorton, parish of, x. Perth, 162 
Rcdhall castle, ruins of, i Edinbui^gh, 1 12 

— house. 111 — quarry, 124 
Redhall castle, site of, iv. Dumfries, 279 
Redhall house, xi. Kincardine, 25 
Redhalls, the, ii. Berwick, 137 
Redhead castle, ruins of, i. Edinbuivh, 

418 
Redhead of Lunan, the, xi. Forfar, 239, 

240, 490, 493 
Redhead, the, xv. Orkney, 158 
V Redheugh the, ii. Berwick, 280, 292, 297 



GENEBAL INDEX. 



CXXl 



Redholm isle, xv. Orkney, 158 
Redhouae castle, ruins of, ii. Haddington, 

252— property of, 181 
Redhyth point, bay at, xiii. Banff, 179 — 
limeworks, 181— -bursaries, 186, xii. 
Aberdeen, 1151 
Redkirk point, iv. Dumfries, 262^church, 

ruins of, 266 
Redlands, nunnery at, xy. Caithness, 61 
Redloch, the, v. Bute, 99 
Redmoas, the, viii Stirling, 143 
Redmyre loch, vi. Lanark, 608 
Redmyre, property of, xi. Kincardine, 133 
Radnock house, x. Perth, 1099, 1108 
Red pass, the, xiii. Elgin, 138 
Redpath, village ol^ ii. Berwitk, 21 
Redpatrick kirk, ruins of iv. Dumfries, 

266 
Red rocks, the, ix. Fife, 133 
Redstone colliery, v. Ayr, 813, 829 
Red well the, xiii. Banff, 148 
Redwells hUl, ix. Fife, 195— house, 950 

— plantations at, 945 
Redykes, camps at, xi. Kincardine, 249 
Reed"^ well, ii. Berwick, 1 69 
Reef of Tiree, the, vii. Argyle, 1 96 
Reekie linn, the, xi. Forfar, 423, 637 
Reeklick house, xiv. Inverness, 460 
Regent bridge, the, i. Edinburgh, 646 
Roister house, the, i. Edinburgh, 645, 

717 
Regland loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 370 
Reheane, village o^ viii. Dunbarton, 126 
Reidie, Roman remains at, xi. Forfiir, 

679 
Reidswire, battle of, iii. Roxburgh, 6, 103 
Reilig Owrain, the, vii. Argyle, 333 
Reiss bay, xv. Caithness, 119 — house, 142 

— Unks, 129 
Reiving crag, the, ii. Linlithgow, 150 
Re-king, camp at, xi. Kincardine, 249 
Relugas house, xiii Elgin, 179, 186 — 

plantations, 188 
Ren isle, vii. Renfrew, 5 
Rendall, annexed parish of, xv. Orkney, 

iD6— hall, 201 
Renfield house, viL Renfrew, 1 8 
Renfrew, parish and town of, vii. Ren- 
frew, 1 — castle, ruins of, 1 1 
Renfrewshire, summary of Statistics of, 
vii. Renfrew, •528 — Agricultural So- 
ciety, 260 
Renton, chapel at, ii. Berwick, 288, 372 

— tower, ruins of, 285 
Renton, villages of, viiL Dunbarton, 88, 

228 
Renton hall, plantations at, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 267 
Renwick'ft monument, iv. Dumfries, 331 
Reoch bum, vii. Renfrew, 537 
Repentance hill, iv. Dumfries, 290—- 

tower, ruins of, 250 
Rereshill,ix.Fife, 316, 319 
Rerrick, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 354 
Resart loch and bum, xiv. Ron, 152 

VOL. XV» 



Rescobie, parish of, xi. Forfar, 596— 

castle, ruins o^ 602— loch, 142, 240, 

597, 598 

Resolis bum, xiv. Ross, 41 — battle at, 45 

Restalrig, ancient parish of, i. Edinburgh, 

775— church, 657— village, 781 
Restcnnet, annexed parish of, xi. Forfru", 
691— battle of, 609— loch, 149, 240, 
691— moss, 597 — ^priory, ruins of, 694 
Restennoth, chapel at, xiv. Ross, 352 
Resting bum, the, xiv. Invemess, 38 
Reston, village of, ii. Berwick, 287 
Reswallie house, xi Forfar, 608 
Retreat, plantations at, ii Berwick, 95 
Rewcastle, site of, iii. Roxburgh, 285 
Rhea, Kyle of, xiv. Inverness, 134, 317, 

Ross, 178, 181, 182, 184 
Rheninver loch, xiii Elgin, 196 
Rhians water, xv. Sutherland, 1 70 
Rhidorch, strath, xiv. Ross, 74 
Rhin, camp on, xv. Sutherland, 50 
Rhin of Killeam, the, viii Stirling, 60 
Rhind point, viii Clackmannan, 21 
Rhind, improvements at, x. Perth, 365 
Rhins of Galloway, iv. Wigton, 87, 131, 

219 
Rhives, battle of, xv. Sutherland, 199 
Rhoagie, spring at, xiv. Ross, 257 
Rhodes quarry, ii. Haddington, 320, 338 
Rhonehouse, village of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

146 
Rhuandunan head, xiv. Invemess, 296 
Rhueva harbour, xiv. Invemess, 163 
Rhu Rairaish head, xiv. Ross, 158 
Rhustore point, xv. Sutherland, 107 
Rhymer's castle, the, ii. Berwick, 21 
Rhynd, parish of, x. Perth, 361 
Rhynds house, ix. Fife, 799 
Rhynie, parish of, xii Aberdeen, 1015 
Rhynns, see Rhins 
Riach moimt, xiii. Elgin, 137 
Riccarton, parish of, v. Ayr, 605 — clia- 
pehie, 170— village, 605, 607, 610, 614 
Riccarton house, i. Edinburgh, 545 
Riccarton, village of, ii Linlithgow, 170 
Richard's cleuch, iii. Roxburgh, 254 
Rickarton house, xi. Kincardine, 244, 253 
Riddan loch, vii. Argyle, 109 
Riddell, property of, iii Roxburgh, 27 
Ridee colliery, viii. Stirling, 241 
Riff head, xiv. Ross, 74 
Rigfoot, copper ore at, ii Beiwick, 94 
Rigg, mineral spring of^ iv. Dumfries, 31 5 

—village of, 270 
Rigg bay, iv. Wigton, 23, 24 
Riggan head, ii Haddington, 289 
Riggin hill, xiii Banff, 9^ 
Righouse, v. Ayr, 525 
Rigside, chapel at, vi Lanark, 490— col- 
lieries, 811 
Rin of Afforsk, xiii Banff, 273 
Ringan'a dean, chapel at, iii. Roxburgh, 

38 
Ring KnoU, c«xa^ c»mm.'^«^c5w»sWSi 
R\ng\y\va\\, cwca^ wSV'e^;\su^'«Jc^a^^^^ 

1 



cxxu 



aSVBKAL IMDEK* 



Rioi^ camp called the, iii Rozbai)|^, 

197 
Ring! of Kirkurd camp, iiL Pedilefl, 

129 
Ringsdale castle, niins of^ yL Lanark, 471 
Ringwee rock, ir. Wigton, 131 
Rink feir, iiL Roxbui^ 402 
Rink, Roman camp at, iiL Selkirk, 17 
Rinloan, cbapel at, ziL Aberdeen, 783 
Rinmure, property of^ xL For&rt 395 
Rinnes, Ben, xiiL Banfl^ 103, 111, 124— 

Elgin, 257 
Rinns point, viL Aigyle, 644 — lig^ithoine, 

651 
Ri^ga iflle, viL Argyle, 121 
Ri^end, limeitone at, Tiii. Stirling, 143 
Rispond harbour, xt. Sutherland, 101 
Rittal isle, xiv. Ron, 74 
Rive Skerries, xr. Orkney, 85 
Rives, rock at, xv. Sutherland, 27 
Roadside, viUage of, xL Kincardine, 285i, 

292 
Roa^ loch, xiv. Roes, 151, 152, 155 
Roaird, district o^ zy. Sutherland, 46 
Roan fell, iiL Roxburgh, 441 
Roan isle, xv. Sutherland, 167, 170 
Roan loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 192 
Robert muir, iv. Dumfiiea, 466 
Robertland castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 733 — 

house, 734 — ginning mills, 731 
Roberton, annexed parish of, vi. Lanark, 

93— chapel, 98 — moat at, 362 — village, 

95,98 
Roberton, pariMli of, iiL Roxburgh, 87 
Robertslin, agates found at, iii. Roxburgh, 

210— remains at, 433 
Robgill tower, iv. Dumfries, 280 
Ron1)inrig sandbank, iv. Kiiiccudbright, 

217 
Robin's height, xii. Aberdeen, 300 
Rob Roy's cave, viiL Stirling, 94 
Roljroyston hum, vi. Lanark, 399 — house, 

407— limestone at, viiL Dunbarton, 181 

— loch, vL Lanark, 400 — plantations, 

403 
Rob's Rede, camp colled, xi. Forfiu*, 606 
Rochel hill, property of, xL ForiiEUr, 346 
Rochsilloch, ironworks at, vL Lanark, 

648 
Rochsoles bouse, vi. Lanark, 244 
Rock and Spindle, rock called, ix. Fife, 

456 
Rockcliff sands, iv. Dumfries, 262 
Rockfield, improvements at, xiv. Ross, 

465 — plantations at, 462 
Rockhail house, iv. Dumfries, 31, 445-— 

moat, 385 
RoCkhall bay, xL Kincardine, 27 1 — head, 

275 
Rockhill house, viL Argyle, 98 
Rockhillf^at biun, iv. Dumfries, 174 
Rocking stone of Amgask, x. Perth, 888 

—of Dron, 864 
Rocking stone, cainw at, xi. l^vncax^^^, 
336 



I Rockville houses iL Haddington, 333—^ 

plantations at, 317 
I Rodll, ruins of elu^iel at, xiv. Inremcts, 

j 156 

i Rodney'ft cron, xiiL SIgin, 221 
Roe isle, xv. Shetland, 99 
Rogart, partdi o^ zy. Sutherland, 46 
Roger'ft kirk, vL Lanark, 68 
Romach, loch, xiiL Elgin, 340 
Rome colliery, v. Ajrr, 668 
Ron isle, viL Renftew, 5 
Ronaldshay, North, island and pariah o^ 
XV. Orkney, 103— Sooth, island o^ 191 
Ronaldson^ tower, ruins oi^ yu. Aigyle, 

68 
Rona'k hill, zy. Shetland, 70— mnains on, 

75— spring on, 73— voe^ 71 
Ronay isle, xiv. Inverness, 163, 164, 220 
Ronheads, village oi, xiL Aberdeen, 369 
Rood chapel at Perth, z. Perth, 66 
Rood churoh, rains of, xiL Aberdeen, 699 

—well, 294 
Rooness hill, xv. Shetland, 145 
Roost, rapids of the, zy. Orkney, 86 
Rora, quarries of, xiL Aberdeen, 860 
Rory MoTe*B hom, xiv. Inverness, 338 
Rosa glen, v. Bute, 3 — water, 7 
Roscobie hills, ix. Fife, 824— limevorkai 

837, 838, 839— village, 874 
Rose crag, the, xiiL Ban^ 29 
Rose ness, xv. Orkney, 204 
Rosebank, sandstone at, iiL Roxburgh, 

303 
Rosebank, property of, vL Lanark, 375, 

376— village, 737, 748 
Rosebank house, xv. Caithness, 142 
Rosefield house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
Roschall collieries, vL Lanark, 646, 775 

— houfic, 958 
Rosehall, foil at, xiv. Ross, 404— nussion, 

428 
Rosehall, chapel at, xv. Sutherland, 22 — 

manganese found at, 17 
Roschaugh, property of, xiv. Ross, 387— 

house, 389 
Rosehearty, village of, xiL Aberdeen, 399, 

402 
Roseisle hill, xiiL Elgin, 33 
Roseislehaugh house, xiiL Elgin, 37 
Rosemarkie, parish o^ xiv. Ross, 348 — 
bav, 349— cross, 353— village, 15, 350, 
354 
Rosemount house, v. Ayr, 566, 567 
Roseneath, parish of,viii. Dunbarton, 102 

—castle, 105, 117, 118— ferry, 109 
Rosewell collieries, i. Edinburgh, 339 — 

village, 354 
Roslin, parish of, L Edinburgh, 337 — ^bat- 
tle, 339— castle, 349— chapel, 340— 
village, 338, 352, 354 
Ross, district of^ vii. Argyle, 296 
Ross, village o^ ii. Berwick, 338, 342 
Ross, quarry at, iv. Dumfries, 69 
^^SucMik "^Tvoc^ ^x\yL Dunbarton, 215 



\ 



GENERAL INDEX. 



CXXlll 



Ross, haugh of, vi. Lanark, 257 — pro> 

perty, 268 — ^wood, camp at, 444 
Ross, village of, x. Perth, 590 
Ross castle, ruins of, xiv. Roes, 221— -and 
Cromarty, summary of statistiot o^ 468 
Ross head, iv. Wigton, 24 
Roasachy bum, xiL Aberdeen, 1049 
Ross Arden head, viiL Dunbarton, 156 
Rofisdhu head, viii. Dunbarton, 156 — 

house, ib, 161 
Rossend castle, ix. Fife, 41 3 
Roflsfinlass head, viii. Dunbarton, 156 
Rosne loch, drainage of, iz. Fife, 22, 33 
Roflsie bum, x. Perth, 827— church, ruins 
of, 831— hill, 285, 717, 826— priory, 
408, 833 
Rossie isle, village of, xi. Forfar, 252 
Roflsie moor, xL For&r, 109, 248, 404 — 

house, 252 
Rossiter, ruins of chapel at, xv. Shetland, 

25 
Rosskeen, parish of, xiv. Ross, 262 
Rossland, remains found at, vii. Renfrew, 

•513— village, *520 
Rosyth, annexed parish of, ix. Fife, 230^ 
castle, ruins of, 239— church, 246, 824 
RotcheU, sandstone at, iv. Dumd&iee, 

206 
Rothes papei^mills and bleachfield, ix. 

Fife, 672, 676 
Rothes, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 228 — castle, 
mins of, 232— hills, 89— village, 40, 
229, 230, 234 
Rothesay, parish of, v. Bute, 95 — bay, 96 
—castle, 100, 101, 108— fiwjtory. 111 
town, 101 
Rothie house, xii. Aberdeen, 331 
Rothiemay, parish of, xiii. Banff, 199 — 

house, 201 
Rothiemurchus, qu/xid sacra parish of, 

xiii. Elgin, 136— forests, 57, 139 
Rothmaise hill, xii. Aberdeen, 421 — 

house, 426 
Rothnick, property o^ xi. Kincardine, 

259 
Rotmel castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 988 — 

—lochs, 995 
Rottal, remains at, xi. Forfar, 443 
Rotten bum, vi. Lanark, 250, 315, 945— 

colliery, 316 
Rotten Calder bum, vi. Lanark, 315, 944 
Rottraw tower, ruins o^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 

55 
Rouchcastle, site of, iii. Roxburgh, 285 
Roudh, Druidical remains at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 170 
Rough bum, v. Ayr, 692 
Rough hill, fort on, vl Lanark, 890 
Roughbank, mills at, v. Ayr, 591 
Roughcastle, remains at, \iii. Stirling, 1 1 
Roiighcastle, the, v. Ayr, 452 
Roughchesler, site of, iii. Roxburgh, 285 
Roughlynook hill, iii. Roxburgh, 3 
RouU, see Rule 
Round hilJ, camp on, viii, Dunbarton, 22 



Round tower of Abemethy, the, x. Perth, 
847 

Roundabout, camp called the, xii. Aber- 
deen, 499 

Roundy hill, xL Forfar, 162 

Rousay and Eagleshay, united parishes 
of, XV, Orkney, 83 

Rousay isle, xv. Orkney, 83, 116 

Rousholm head, xv. Orkney, 157 

Routen biim, the, v. Ayr, 790 — ^improve- 
ments at, 80S 

Routing bridge, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 
266 

Routing well, the, I Edinburgh, 283 

Rova head slate quarry, xv. Shetland, 65 

Row, parish o^ viiL Dunbarton, 65— vil- 
lage, 67 

Row, hole of, XV. Orkney, 42 — rocks at, 
173 

Rowallan castle, ruins o^ v. Ayr, 541 — 
mill at, 549,550 

Rowan bum, iv. Dumfries, 485^orchards, 
488 

Rowardennan inn, viiL Stirling, 90 — ^ferry, 
Dunbarton, 156 

Rowcan, village of, iv. Dumfries, 32 

Roxburgh, parish of, iii Roxburgh, 127 — 
ruins of town and castle of, 130 — tower, 
131— village, 132, 133 

Roxburghshire, observations on, iii. Rox- 
bui^h, 459 

Roy glen, xiv. Invemess, 504 

Roysd botanic gardens, Edinburgh, L Ed- 
inburgh, 691— exchange, 644 — infirma- 
ry, 728— institution, 698, 699, 704 

Roy's caim hill, xiu. Elgin, 60 

Roystoun house, L Edinburgh, 596 

Rozelle house, v. Ayr, 4, 16 

Ruaidh, Ben, xv. Caithness, 13 

Ruar, loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 

Ruardinnan ferry, viii Dunbarton, 156 — 
inn, Stirling, 90 

Ruberslaw, iii. Roxburgh, 54, 208, 281, 
355, 426, 427, 460— camp on, 212 

Rubislaw, ketones at, xii. Aberdeen, 1077 

Ruchhill plantations, viii Stirling, 147 

Ruchill water, x. Perth, 580 

Ruchummon, slate quarry of, x. Perth, 
166 

Rude well, the, ii. Haddington, 56 

Rue, freestone at, iv. Dumfries, 555 

Ruesholm colliery, v. Ayr, 232 

Ruggy hill and market, xv. Caithness, 78 

Rugh hill, viii. StirUng, 140 

Ruid altar, the, vi. Lanark, 15 

Ruisky forest, xiv. Inverness, 39, 42— 
quarrv, 42 

Rule witer, iii. Roxburgh, 208, 209, 211, 
280, 281, 426, 228 

Rullion green, battle of, i. Edinburgh, 113, 
315 

Rum island, xiv. Inverness, 145, 148, 150, 
152— house, 152 

Rumbling budg^fe, \.Vv«, tl. ^«Scw^^^'^,^^'^> 
1005, \^\^ 



CXXIV 



OEKERAL Iia)EX. 



Rumbling bridge, the, viii. Stirling, 176 
Rumbling bum, the, v. Ayr, 667 
Riunbling well, iv. Kirkcudbright, .203 
Rumford colliery, v. Ayr, 668 
Rumlie bum, xii. Aberdeen, 11 05 
Rumsdale, district of^ xy. Caithness, 79 
Runahaorine point, viL Argyle, 377 
Ru Rea head, xiv. Roes^ 92 
Rusco tower, ruins of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

378— house, 382 
Rusdale, strath of, xiv. Ross, 263 
Rusepol hill, vii Argyle, 1 24 
Rusky house and loch, x. Perth, 1096, 

1097 
Russell, spinning mills of, ix. Fife, 573 
Russness hill, xv. Shetland, 103 
Rutha Benachain point, xiv. iDvemess, 

240 
Rutha Bhomiskittaig head, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 240 
Rutha Chiumleith head, xiv. Invemees, 

240 
Rutha-ghara-fada point, xiv. Inverness, 

240 
Ruthahuinish point, xiv. Inveroeas, 240 
Rutherford inn and well, iii. Peebles, 156, 

157 
Rutherford, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 1 1 8, 

119 
Rutherford's witnesses, stones called, iv. 

Kirkcudbright, 380 
Rutherglen, parish of, vi. Lanark, 373 — 

town, I*. 386, 388— castle, 374 
Ruthi goe, xv. Caithness, 118 
Ruthrie, daugh of, xiii. Banff, 1 1 1 — linn, 

114 
Ruthven bleachfield, x. Perth, 1032, 1034 
—castle, 1030— printficld, 1035— vil- 
lage, 1036— water, 285, 298 
Ruthven, parish of, xi. Forfar, 413 — 

castle, 415 — house, 416 
Ruthven barracks, ruins oli xiv. Inverness, 

71 — castle, 67, 71 — loch, 515 
Ruth well parish of, iv. Dumfries, 218— 
Runic monimient at, 221 — village, 234 
Rutton loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 286 
Ryan loch, iv. Wigton, 80, 81, 92, 95, 

102 
Rye water, v. Ayr, 212, 790 
Rycdale house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
llye hill, tradition regarding, iv. Dumfries, 

•248 
Ryehill collier}', vi. Lanark, 724 
Kyesholm, v. Ayr, 790 
Rynie loch, xv. Sutherland, 216 
Hysay isle, xv. Orkney, 78 
Siibbath well, xiii. Elgin, 62 
Sabhalmhoir hill, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Sacel, ironstone at, vii. Renfrew, 153 
Saddell castle, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 448 — 
monastery, ruins and historv of, 445 — 
water, 438 
Saddell and Skipness, united parishes of, 

vii. Argvle, 436 
Saddleback hill, iv. IXimftiw, \^4 



St Abb^ head, iL Berwick, 279, 281, 363 

—nunnery, 281 
St Adamannan^ church, ruins of, xiL 

Aberdeen, 593 
St Adrian's church, ruins o^ ix. Fife, 

612 
St Andrew's hill, xii Aberdeen, 426 - 
St Andrews, parish and town of, ix. Fife, 
449 — castle, ruins and historj of, 458, 
467 
St Andrew's church, Dunfermline, ix. 

Fife, 897 
St AndrewVi church, Dundee, xi Forfiur, 

19,42 
St Andrewli church, &c. Edinburgh, L 

Edinburgh, 665 
St Andrew's church, Gla«gow, vL Lanark, 

209 
St Andrews, parish of, xv. Orkney, 169 
St Andrew'bchurch, Peebles, iii. Peebles, 6 
St Andrew's church, &c. Greenock, viL 

Renfrew, 456 
St Andrewls hill, xv. Shetland, 7 
St Andrews Lhanbryd, parish of^ xiii. 

Elgin, 29 
St Ann's bleachfield, ix. Fife, 527 
St Ann'b chapel, x. Perth, 66 
St Ann's bridge, bacon ciuring at, iv. Dum- 
fries, 163 
i St Ann's, carpet manufactory of^ i. Edin- 
burgh, 334 
St Anthonv's chapel and hermitage, i. 

Edinburgh, 620, 657— well, 658 
St Apolonarius' chapel, ruins of, xii. 

Aberdeen, 682 
St Arnold's kirk, ruins of, xi. Kincardine, 

314 
St Arnold's seat, hill of, xl Forfar, 198 
St Amty's kill, ruins of, xi. Kincardine, 

314 
St Asaph's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Invei^ 

ncss, 305 — well, ib. 
St Aula's church, xiv. Ross, 115, 126 
St Baldred's boat and cradle, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 38 
St Barr's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 

206 
St Bathan's, see Yester 
St Bathan's, parish of, ii. Berwick, 1 05 — 
church, 108 — copper ore found at, 106 
— nunner)', 107 — well, 109 
St Bennet's church, ruins of, ix. Fife, 223 
St Bennet's chapel and well, xiv. Ross, 15 
St Bernard's church, I Edinburgh, 665 — 

well, 621 
St Blanc's hill, v. Bute, 83, 84— chapel, 

ruins of, 86 
St Boniface's chapels, mins of, xiv. Ross, 

352 
St Boswell's or Lessudden, parish of, iii. 
Roxburgh, 104 — bum, 105 — green, 106 
— fair, 1 1 2 — village, ruins of, 110 
St Bricedale house, ix. Fife, 749 
^\. \?»\\^%*'i iiciWN^wt^ Kilmorie, v. Bute, 54 

'^nN. '^TV^^''^ Oc«0^^^ '^^'CtNR^KS ^ N .^WXft , \^^ 



OENEBAL INDEX. 



cxxv 



St Bride^ring, a Druidical circle, xi. For- 
far, 546 
St Bride's chapel, ruinB of, xiv. Inverness, 

305 
St Bride's spring, Duns3rTe, yL Lanark, 66 
St Bride's, ancient pariah of, iii. Perth, 36 

—well, 38 
St Bride's well, x. Perth, 426 
St Bride's bum, Kilbarchan, vii. Renfrew, 

354 — chapel, ruins of, 366 
St Bride's church, Kirkcolm, iy. Wigton, 

111 
St Bridget's chapel and well, Beath, v. 

Ayr, 581 
St Bridgets chapel, Lewis, ruins of, xiv. 

Ross, 145 
St Bryde, see St Bride 
St Calmag'S, Druidical remains at, v. Bute, 

1 03 — chapel, ruins of, *6. 
St Camac's chapel, ruins of,xii Aberdeen, 

993 
St Catherine of Sienna, monastery of, i. 

Edinburgh, 657 
St Catherine's well, Dalzell, vi. Lanark, 

445 
St Catherine's house, Liberton, i. Edin- 
burgh, 1 1 — chapel, ruins of, 7 — petro- 

leimi well, 3, 5 
St Catherine's church, Penicuick, ruins 

of, i. Edinburgh, 29 
St Catherine's chapel, Perth, x. Perth, 

66 
St Catherine's church, ruins of, viL Ar- 

gyle, 429 
St Christopher's chapel, Dumfries, ruins 

of, iv. Dumfries, 1 1 
St Ciran's church, xv. Caithness, 74 
St Clement's well, xiv. Inverness, 306 
St Coain's chapel, ruins o^ xiv. Inverness, 

305 
St Coivin'S church, ruins of, vii. Aigyle, 

429 
St Collum's church, Lewis, xiv. Ross, 115, 

126 
St Cohne house, ix. Fife, 188 
St Colm's chapel, xii. Aberdeen, 1029 
St Colm's, ancient parish of, xv. Orkney, 

85 
St Columba isle, xiv. Inverness, 258 — 

loch, 246 
St Columba's chapel, xv. Caithness, 74 
St Comb's, village of, xii Aberdeen, 216, 

229 
St Conal lie's stone, vii. Renfrew, 128 
St Congan, hospital of, xii. Aberdeen, 988 
St Connel's tomb, iv. Dumfries, 316 
St Coomb's kirk, ruins of, xv. Caithness, 

61 
St Cormaig's church, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 

635 
St Cowsland's chapel, xi. For&r, 152 
St Cowstan's church, ruins of^ xiv. Ross, 

115,126 
St Cruz, ruins of church of, xv. Shetland, 

40 



StCuthbert^ church, &c. Edinbuxgfa, i. 

Edinburgh, 664, 747 
St Cuthbert's church, Prestwick, v. Ayr, 

169 
St Cuthbert's chapel, Wick, xv. Caithness, 

160 
St Cuthbert's cottage, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

25 
St Cyrus or Ecclesgreig, pariah o^ xl Kin- 
cardine, 269 
St David's church, Dundee, xi. For&r, 18, 

42 
St David's church, Glasgow, vi Lanark, 

209 
St David's church, Kirkintilloch, viii. 

Dimbarton, 206 — ^[uoad sacra parish 

of, 208 
St David's, harboiur and village of, ix. Fife, 

183, 184, 188 
St David's, village of, x. Perth, 75 
St Dennis' church, ruins of, ix. Fife, 134 
St Dorothy's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 457 
St Dunstan's well, iii Roxburgh, 61 
St Duthac's chapel and well, xiv. Ross, 

15 
St Duthec'S loch, xiv. Ross, 181 
St Duthec'S kirk, xv. Caithness, 160 
St Duthus' chapel and sanctuary, xiv. 

Ross, 287— church, 288 
Saintear loch, xv. Orkney, 118 
St Enoch's church, vi Lanark, 107 — hall, 

784 
St Eunon's chapel, ruins of, xiii Elgin, 

87 
St Evox, see St Quivox 
St Fergus, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 185 
St Fergus, suppressed parish of, xv. Caith- 
ness, 68 
St Fillan'S pool and chapel, x. Perth, 

1088— village, 590— games, 586 
St Finan isle, vii. Argyle, 123 
St Finian'S chapel, ruins of, iv. Wigton, 

61 
St Ford links, ix. Fife, 325 
St Fort hill, ix. Fife, 506— house, 508, 

509— property, 507 
St Francis' chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 

305 
St George's church, &c. Edinburgh, i 

Edinburgh, 665— chapel, 667 
St George's hospital, x. Perth, 993 
St George's parish, Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 

226, 237 
St Germains collieries, ii. Haddington, 

176, 288 — house, 293 — plantations, 

283 
St Germans loch, viii. Dunbarton, 37 
St Giles' church, Edinburgh, i. Edinburah, 
- 658 

St Glass' well, ix. Fife, 194 
St Gordianls tower, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 

116 
St HeleivfiYicw»ft,"m,'^KO&tvN»^'5»^i5k 



CXXVl 



GBNE&AL INDEX. 



St Helena well, Maybole, v. Ayr, 866 
St Helen'ft well, Melrose, ilL Roxburgh, 

61 
St Hillary's kirk, ruins of, xv. Shetland, 

25 
St Inan^ chair and well, v. Ayr, 577 
St James* chapel, i. Edinburgh, 667 
St Jame8\ qwxzd sacra parish of, xi. For- 

fer, 697, 701 
St James* fair, xi. Kincardine, 308 
St James* well, xi. Kincardine, 28 
St James* chapel, Perth, x. Perth, 66 
St James*, suppressed parish of, iiL Rox- 
burgh, 127, 308 — church and green, 
317 
Sfe John's church, Ayr, v. Ajrr, 34 
St John's church, Edinburgh, i. Edin- 
burgh, 665 — chapels, 657, 666 
St John*s quoad aacra parish, Leith, I 

Edinburgh, 778 
St JohnVi chapel, Lewis, ruins of, xiv. 

Ross, 145 
St John*s chapel. Inch, ruins ol, iv. Wig- 
ton, 88 
St John*B church, Montrose, ti, For&r, 

282 
St John*8 close, xii. Aberdeen, 447 
St John*B head, xv. Caithness, 22— char 

pel on, 25 
St John's hill, Bedrule, iii. Roxburgh, 

283 
St John*8 hill, Kinness, xL Kincardine, 

310— cairn on, 315 
St John*8 kirk, vi. Lanark, 874 
St John's loch, Dunnet, xv. Caithness, 36, 

38 
St John's town of Dairy, village of, iv. 

Kirkcudbright, 371 
St John's vale, xiii. Elgin, 179 
St John's well, Balmerino, ix. Fife, 580 
St John's well, Bellic, xiii. Elgin, 116 
St John's well, Deskford, xiii. Banff, 68 
St John's well, Falkland, ix. Fife, 938 
St John's well, Fyvie, xii. Aberdeen, 317 
St John's well, Marykirk, xi. Kincardine, 

299 
St John's well, Spott, ii. Haddington, 7 1 
St John's well, Torphichen, ii. Linb'th- 

gow, 36 
St Johnls well, Turriff, xii. Aberdeen, 

983 
St Kenneth's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 426 
St Kessaig hill, x. Perth, 355 
St Killen's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 

426 
St Laurence, parish of, see Slamanan 
St Lawrence bay, vii. Renfrew, 425 
St Lawrence's chapel, x. Perth, 65 
St Lawrence house, village of, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 4 
St Lawrence's well, Morebattle, iii. Kox- ! 
buigh, 454 ( 

.St Lawrence*8 well, Ravnc, xii. Wjet^eei^ 
424 



St LawTence*8 well, Slamanan, viiL Stir, 
ling, 273 

St Leonard*s, chapel at, ii. Berwick, 6 

St Leonard*B chapel, Ayr, v. Ayr, 37 

St Leonard'^ chapel, Lanark, vi Lanark, 
15 

St Leonard'^ chapel, Perth, x. Perth, 65 

St Lconardls church, Lewis, xiv. IUnb» 
115 

St Leonard's college, St Andrews, ix. 
Fife, 487 

St Leonard*B hospital, Dunfermline, ix. 
Fife, 904 

St Leonardo hospital, Peebles, iii. Peebles, 
8 

St Leonard*li hospital and nunnery, Perth, 
X. Perth, 65 

St Leonard'^ paper mill, i. Edinburgh, 
608, 609— idllage, 609 

St Leonard's, parish of, ix. Fife, 497 

St Leonard'^ tower, ruins of, ix. Fife, 808 
— spinning mills, 810, 813 

St Luke^ fkir, vi Lanark, 396 

St Machar, cathedral of, xiL Aberdeen, 
1078 

St Machute*B church, iv. Wigton, 6 

St Maddan*B chapel, xv. CaiUmess, 25 

St Madoes, parish of, x. Perth, 607 

St Magdalenels chapel and nunnery, x. 
Perth, 65— hiU, 3, 5 

St M8gdalene*B chapel, ruins of, xv. Ork- 
ney, 141 

St Magnus' cathedral, xv. Orkney, 3 

St Magnus' bay, xv. Shetland, 71, 101 — 
chapel, ruins of, 73 

St Mark's well, xii. Aberdeen, 873 

St Maree's well, xiv. Ross, 92 

St Margaret's hope, ii. Linlithgow, 7— 
bayof, ix. Fife, 231,237 

St Margaret's hope, village of, xv. Orknev, 
195 

St Margaret's well, vi. Lanark, 445 

St Marnock's mill, v. Ayr, 550 

St Martin's chapel, ruins of, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 14 

St Martin'^ chapel, xv. Caithness, 160 

St Martin's church, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 

38— load ore at, 42 
St Martins and Cambusmichael, united 

parishes of, x. Perth, 873 
St Mary Magdalene hospital, i. Edinburgh, 

657 
St Mar}' in the fields, church of, i. Edin- 
burgh, 656 
St Mary of the Lowes, kirk of, iii. Sel- 
kirk, 29 — burial gtound, 36, 46 
St Mary of Placentia, chapel of, i. Edin- 
burgh, 657 
St Mary's, ancient parish of, xiv. Inver- 

ne88,*237 
St Mary's, suppressed parish of, xv. Ork- 
ney, 191 
St Marj's bum, ix. Fife, 1, 2 — chapel 



GENERAL INDEX. 



CXXV 11 



St Mary^ church, Banff, nuiui of, xiii. 

Banff, 27 
St Mary's church, Cullen, xiii. Banff; 326 
St Mary*B church, Diindee, xl Forfar, 41 
St Mary*s chapel, Diinlop, v. Ayr, 294 
St Mary*8 church, &c. Edinburgh, I Edin- 
burgh, 665--chapel, 657 
St Mary's church, Kilfinichen, ruins of, 

vii. Argyle, 331 
St Mary's chapel, Lewis, ruins of, xiv. 

Ross, 145 
St Mary's church, Rothesay, ruins of; v. 

Bute, J 03 
St Mary's chapel, &c Stirling, viii. Stii^ 

luig, 425 
St Mary's church. Stow, ruins of, i. Edin- 

bmgh, 409 
St Mary'ii chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 

305 
St Mary's college, St Andrews, ix. Fife, 

488 
St Mary's isle, priory of, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 22 — house, 25 
St Mary'ii kirk, Wick, xv. Caithness, 160 
St Mary's loch, iii Peebles, 167, Selkirk, 

30, 36, 60 
St Mary's well, Cul8almond,xiL Aberdeen, 

731 
St Mary's well. Lady kirk, ii Berwick. 182 
St Mary's well, Melrose, iii Roxburgh, 61 
St Mary's well. Tain, xiv. Ross, 283 
St Mathew's well, i. Edinburgh, 338 
St Medan's cave, iv. Wigton, 208 
St Methven's chapel, ruins of, x. Perth, 

255 
St Michael's bog and well, vL Lanark, 517 
St Michael 8 church, Arran, ruins of, v. 

Bute, 25 
St Michael's church, Cupar, ruins of, ix. 

Fife, 5 
St Michael's chapel, Dumfries, iv. Dum- 
fries, 5 — burial place of Bums at, 6, 1 3 
—church, 13 
St Michael's church, Inveresk, i Edin- 
burgh, 270 
St Michaers church, Kelso, iii Roxburgh, 

308 
St Michael's chapel, Row, ruins of; viiL 

Dunbarton, 75 
St Michael's well, xii. Aberdeen, 731 
St Michael's weU, xiii. Elgin, 196 
St Minin's chapel, ix. Fife, 966 
St Miran'S chapel, vii. Renfrew, 212, 217 
St Mirren's factory, vii. Renfrew, 274 
St Mirron^s well, viii Stirling, 147 
St Molach, battle of; xiii Banff, 104 
St Molios, remains at, v. Bute, 24 
St Monans, parish of, ix. Fife, 337— cell, 

350, 966~vnhige, 338, 344, 347 
St Mugging seat, ix. Fife, 601 
St Munde isle, vii Argyle, 223 
St Mungo, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 203— 

church, 209 
St Mungo'fe chapel, ruins o^ z. Perth, 
290 



St Mungo's hill, xii. Aberdeen, 1037 
St Mungo's isle, ruins of chapel at, xiv. 

Inverness, 426 
St Mungo's shrine, vi. Lanark, 107 
St Mungo's well, i. Edinburgh, 29, 545 
St Murdoeh^ chapel, xi Forfar, 241,491 
St Murray's, cairn at, v. Ayr, 366 — 

quarry of, 352 
St Nethan, church of, vi. Lanark, 608 
St Nicholas' chapel, Dirleton, ii Had- 
dington, 210 
St Nicholas' church, Lanark, vi Lanark, 

14 
St Nicholas' chapel, Leith, i Edinburgh, 

766 
St Nicholas' church, Prestwick, v. Ayr, 

169 
St Nicholas' chapel, Yester, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 169 
St Nicholas' hospital, Boharm, xiii Banff, 

365 
St Nicholas' hospital, Glasgow, vi Lanark, 

106 
St Nicholas, parish of, see Aberdeen 
St NinianVi bay, Bute, v. Bute, 96 
St Ninians, chaplainry of; xii Aberdeen, 

328 
St Ninian's chapel, Edinburgh, i Edinr 

burgh, 657 
St Ninian's chapel. Loth, ruins of, xv. 

Sutherland, 201 
St Ninian's chapel, Penninghame, ruins 

of, iv. Wigton, 176 
St Ninian'b chapel, &c St Vigeans, xi. 

For&r, 495 
St Ninian'ii church, ruins of, vii Argyle, 

429 
St Nim'an's chapel, Stirling, ruins of, viii. 

Stirling, 426 
St Ninian's, chapel at, Urquhart, xiv. In- 
verness, 45 
St Ninian^ chapel, Wick, xv. Caithness, 

160 
St NinianiB hospital, vi Lanark, 688 
St Ninian's isle, xv. Shetland, 94 
St Ninians, parish o^ viii. Stirling, SOS- 
village, 326, 333— well, 323 
St Ninian's point, chapel at, v. Bute, 103 
St Ninian's shrine, iv. Kirkcudbright, 132 
St Ninianls spring, vi Lanark, 809 
St Ola, annexed parish of; xv. Orkney, 1 
St Oran's church, ruins of, vii Argyle, 333 
St Orland'te stone, xi. Forfar, 345 
St Oswald's chapel, ruins o^ vi Lanark, 

582 
St Oyne's, mound of, xii. Aberdeen, 294 
St Palladius' chapel, ruins of, xi. Kincar- 
dine, 66— well, 67 
St Patrick's chapel, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 

83 
St Patrick'^ chapel and well, x. Perth, 

318 
St Patrick's well, vi Lanark, 445 
St Paul's cha^U^lAMte«st^^^*'*^^^^«^ 



CXXVUl 



QBKB&AL IKDBX. 



St Paul'fe chapel, x. Perth, 66— -remains 

found at, 61 
St Paul^ well, xii. Aberdeen, 317 
St Peters, suppressed parish ol^ xv. Ork- 
ney, 191 
St PeteriB chapel, Birsay, xv. Orkney, 151 
St Peter*s chapel, HaUdrk, rUins of, xv. 

Caithness, 74 
St PeteriB chapel. Lady, ruins of, xv. Ork- 
ney, 141 
St Peter^s chapel, Lewis, ruins of^ xiv. 

Ross, 145 
St Peter's chapel, Montrose, xi. For&r« 

282 
St Peter's well, xii Aberdeen, 317 
St PeteriB well, Mouswald, iv. Dumfries, 

443 
St Philip^ well, iii. Selkirk, 35 
St Phillans, or Forgan, parish of, ix. Fife, 

505 
St Phink'te chapel, ruins of, X. Perth, 1188 
St guerdon's well, iv. Kirkcudbright, 225 
St Quivox, parish of, v. Ayr, 118 
St Regulus' chapel and tower, ruins of, 

ix. Fife, 464 
St Regulus' chapel, Cromarty, ruins of, 

xiv. Ross, 15 
St RinganiB cave, iv. Wigton, 38 
St Rock^ chapel, Paisley, ruins of, vil 

Renfrew, 209 
St RoUox chemical works, vl Lanark, 

163, 166 
St Ronan'S club, iii Peebles, 31 
St Roque's chapel, i Edinburgh, 657 
St Roque's chapel, vi Lanark, 108 
St Rufiis' priory and chapel, ix. Fife, 964 
St Rule's chapel, xii. Aberdeen, 328 
St Salvator's college, ix. Fife, 487 — cha- 
pel, 502, 503— tower, 492 
St Sebastian's chapel, xi. Forfar, 514 
St SerfFs', suppressed parish of, x. Perth, 

163 
St Serfs house, ii. Haddington, 333 
St Serfs' isle, ix. Kinross, 3, 31 — ruins on, 

30, 33, 73 
St Servanus' isle, ix. Kinross, 3, 31 
St Skay'h chapel, ruins of, xi Forfar, 245 
St Skeoch's, annexed parish of, xi For&r, 

245 
St Stephen's church, &c.i. Edinburgh, 665 
St Tear's chapel, xv. Caithness, 133, 

Sutheriand, 201 
St Teman's chapel, xi. Kincardine, 160 
St Thomas*, suppressed parish of, xv. 

Caithness, 68 — ruins of chapel, 73 
St Thomas', quoad sacra parish of, Green- 
ock, vii Renfrew, 456 
St Thomas' chapel, Banff, ruins of, xiii 

Banff, 29 
St Thomas' chapel, Kelso, ruins of, iii. 

Roxburgh, 308 
St Thomas' church, Leith, i Edinburgh, 

779 
8t Thomas' chaplainry, Kewtew, Vu.'R*?^- 
frew, 15 



\ 



St Thomas' hospital, i Edinburgh, 657 
St Tredwall'B chapel, ruins of, xy. Ork- 
ney, 117, 125 
St Trullew'ii chapel, xv. Sutherland, 201 
St Tustan'b chapel, ruins of^ xv. Caithnev, 

25 
St Tyr'^ chapel, maancre at, xy. Caith- 
ness, 133, Sutherland, 201 
St Valley, cairn at, v. Ayr, 280 
St Vey's chapel, ruins o^ v. Ayr, 272 
St Vigeans, parish of^ xi Forfiir, 489 
St Vildrin's well, viii Stirling, 102 
St WilliamVi well, iii Roxbuigh, 61 
Saintls isle, xv. Sutherland, 167 
Saint's well, Fodderty, xiv. Ross, 246 
Saint's well, Mamock, xiii Banff, 382 
Saint's well, Nutholm, iv. Dumfries, 205 
Salachie loch, xv. Sutherhmd, 25 
Salanside tower, ruins o^ iii Roxbuigh, 

274 
Salcn, district o^ vii Aigyle, 357— har- 
bour, 230 — ^ruins of chapel at, 287 
Saline, parish of, ix. Fife, 798— village* 

799— hills, 830, viii Stirling, 2 
Salisbury crags, i Edinbuigh, 615, 619 
Salloch glen, vii Aigyle, 474 
Sallysbiurgh, village of, vi Lanark, 631 
Salmon leap fall, the, iii. Roxbuigh, 192 
Saltbum, village of, xiv. Ross, 272 
Saltcoats, town^ and harbour <^ â–¼. Ayr, 

192, 198, 201, 440, 454, 459,460 
Saltcoats house, ruins oi^ ii Haddington, 

209— .property, 44 
Salt greens of Tjrnninghame, the, ii. Had- 
dington, 30 
Salthouse head, xii. Aberdeen, 345 — 

quarry, 364 
Salton, parish of^ ii Haddington, 106 — 
bum, 2, 106, 107, 359— hall and vil- 
lage, 108, 116,121,126— camp at, 115 
Saltpans cave, xv. Orkney, 14 
Saltpans, village of, vii Argyle, 465 
Salt stones, the, xiii Banff, 221 
Samphrcy isle, xv. Shetland, 82 
Samson'^ ribs, i Edinburgh, 620 
Samuelston plantations, &c ii Hadding- 
ton, 177— ullage, 186, 193 
Sand loch, xii. Aberdeen, 591 
Sand loch, the, iv. Dumfries, 3 
Sand bay, xv. Shetland, 23 — trees at, 
108 — burial ground, 113 — church, 
113 — house, 115 — school, 136 — voe, 
100 
Sand of Brecon voe, xv. Shetland, 24 
Sanda isle, vii. Argyle, 414 
Sanday isle, xv. Orkney, 85, 133, 134 — 

sound, 86 
Sandaysand isthmus, xv. Orkney, 169 
Sandecl bay, iv. Wigton, 133 
Sandeland isle, vii. Aigj'le, 301 
Sandend village and limeworks, xiii. 

Banff, 190, 191 
Sanderay isle, xiv. Inverness, 200 
^tAS^qV^ Vv\\3i^'SLv. Orkney, 42 



aENBRAL INDEX. 



CXXIX 



Sandhaven, village and harbour of, xii. 

Aberdeen, 399 
Sandhead bay, iv. Wigton, 162 — village, 

164 
SandhilU of Cullen, xiil Elgin, 217 
Sandhills of Stevenston, v. Ayr, 426 
Sand Inch iale, vii Renfrew, 5 
Sandlaw, property of^ xiii. Banff, 146 — 

remains found at, 161 
Sandlodge, copper ore at, xv. Shetland, 93 
Sandness, district of, xv. Shetland, 1 9 
Sands of Nigg, the, xiv. Rois, 20, 301 
Sandside bay, xv. Caithness, 14 — fishery, 

19 — quarry at,. 15 
Sandsound voe, xv. Shetland, 100 
Sandsting and Aithsting, united parishes 

of, XV. Shetland, 97 
Sandwich, village of, xiv. Ross, 1 36 
Sand wick, parish of, xv. Orkney, 41 
Sandwick, suppressed parish of, xv. Shet- 
land, 93 — bay, 38 — burial ground, 40 
Sandwood water, xv. Sutherland, 88 
Sandy bay, the, iv. Wigton, 1 32 
Sandy goe, xv. Caithness, 118 
Sandy hills, the, xiii. Elgin, 203 
Sandy hills, the, vi. Lanark, 122 
Sandy isle, the, xiv. Inverness, 145, 149 
Sandy know, the, iii. Roxburgh, 141 
Sandyford biun, viii. Stirling, 206 
Sannox glen, v. Bute, 3 — quarry, 10 — 

water, 7 
Sanquhar, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 297 — 

castle, ruins of, 305 — collieries, 298 — 

town, 305, 307, 309, 310 
Sanquhar house, xiii. Elgin, 163, 167 
Sarclet loch, xv. Caithness, 124 — village 

153,157,158 
Sark tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 490 — 

water, 263 
Sarkshields quarry, iv. Dumfries, 284 
Satumess point, iv. Kirkcudbright, 235 
Sauchenford malt kiln, viii. Stirling, 333 
Sauchenloan, mineral spring at, xii. Aber- 
deen, 730 
Sauchie bum, ix. Fife, 195 
Sauchie house, ruins of, viiL Stirling, 323 

— plantations, 313, 314 
Sauchie tower, ruins of, viii. Clackmannan, 

126 
Sauchiebog, village o^ vi. Lanark, 431 
Sauchiebum, battle of, viii Stirling, 31 6 
Sauchope, standing stone at, ix. F^fe, 948, 

955 
Sauchrie castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 365 
Sauchur point, ix. Fife, 283 
Saugfaton house, i. Edinburgh, 597 
Savalmore hill, xv. Sutherland, 1 1 9 
SaviUe house, xv. Orkney, 86, 87 
Savoch bum, xii. Aberdeen, 704 
Sax corpses, stones called, iv. Dumfries, 

70 
Saxon, ruins of forts at, vi. Lanark, 68 
Saxa Vord hill, xv. Shetland, 37 
Sayrs law, ii Berwick^ 94 
Scaddens loch, xiv. Ross, 383 

VOL. XV. 



Scaigh castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 318 
Scair Caristina, the, vii. Argyle, 346 
Scalloway castle, ruins of, xv. Shetland, 

59 — village, ♦6. — voe, 68 
Scalpa bay, xv. Orkney, 13— flow, 70 
Scalpa isle, xiv. Invemess, 155-^ruins of 
church on, 305— harbour, 158— sound* 
302 
Scalpsie bay, v. Bute, 83, 96 
Scamadale loch, vii. Argyle, 64 
Scapa bay, xv. Orkney, 1 
Scar house, xv. Orkney, 86 
Scar sandbank, iv. Wigton, 102 
Scar water, iv. Dumfries, 460, 461, 473, 

499, 500, 501 
Scaraben hill, xv. Caithness, 84, 87 
Scarba isle, vii Argyle, 534 
Scares of Cmden, the, xii Aberdeen, 977 
Scar&kerry head, xv. Caithness, 35 — har- 
bour at, 46 
Scarhill limeworks, ix. Kinross, 39 
Scarlaw castle, remains at, ii. Berwick, 101 
Scarmclet, property of, xv. Caithness, 114, 

115 
Scaraose head, xiii. Banff, 314 
Scarp isle, xiv. Inverness, 155 
Scarsburgh, remains found at, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 4— chapel, lO^amp at, 12 
Scathe stone, the, ix. Fife, 97^ 
Scavaig bay, xiv. Inverness, 300 
Schawls hospital, ii Haddington, 383 
Schawpark house, viii. Clackmannan, 126 
Schehallion, mount, x. Perth, 753 
Schell hill, iii. Roxburgh, 448 
Schivas house, xii. Aberdeen, 669 
Schoolhill of Cupar, ix. Fife, 3, 5 
Schurroch hill, xi. Forfar, 612, 613— re- 
mains on, 615 
Scirrival point, xiv. Inverness, 199 
Sciulm-a-charra hill, xiv. Ross, 404 
Sclanders bum, viii Stirling, 1 1 5 
Sclatecowcs quarry, xi. Kincardine, 226 
Sclaty goe, xv. Caithness, 118 
Scobbach house, xii Aberdeen, 995 
Scoliescross inn, xi. Kincardine, 243 
Scolpeg, cairn at, xiv. Inverness, 161 
Scoltie hill, xi. Kincardine, 232, 324 
Sconcer limeworks, xiv. Inverness, 222 
Scone, parish of, x. Perth, 1043 — monas- 
terv, 1 049— palace, 1 060— village, 1 062, 
1071, 1072 
Scoonie, parish of, ix. Fife, 264 
Scorraig, iron ore at, xiv. Ross, 76 
Scotlandwell, village of, ix. Kinross, 31 — 

ruins of chapel at, 3S 
Scot*s hole, tradition regarding, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 118 
Scotstown head, xii. Aberdeen, 1 88 — 

house, 1076 
Scotstown plantations, xi. Forfar, 653 
Scotstown house and property, vi. Ija- 

nark, 377 
Scotstown house, vii. Renfrew, 2, 19 
Scott monument, Edinburgh, i Edin- 
buT0v, 65^ 

T 



OEKBRAL IKDBX. 



ScoiUag bay, y. Bute, 88 
Scour Choinich hill, vii. Aigyle, 124 
Scour Dhonich hill, m Aigyle, 124 
Scourie, district o^ xy. Sutherland, 119 — 

Danish remains at, 127 
Scour-na-lapich hill, xiv. TnTemesm, 868 
Scow Kyle, xr. Sutherland, 119, 121 
Scraefield hill, xv. Shetland, 8 
Scrape hill, iii. Peebles, HI— Roman re- 
mains on, 78 
Screbhisbheinn hill, xv. Sutherland, 88 
Scrishben hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 
Scroulach hill, xii Aberdeen, 526 
Scuddebuigh fort, ruins of, xiv. Invemev, 

266 
Sculomy bay, xv. Sutherland, 168 
Scunt bum, xiv. Inverness, 1 56 
Scur Eigg, the, xiv. Inverness, 145, 146, 

150 
Scurr hill, ix. Fife, 578, 581 
Scurry rock, remains found at, iii Rox- 
burgh, 237 
Scur-uran mount, xiv. Ross, 182 
Scye loch, xv. Caithness, 1 15 
Seabank of Stevenston, v. Ayr, 427, 429 
Seabank house, v. Ayr, 440, 451 
Seacliife house, ii. Haddington, 31 — 

whale found at, 334 
Seafield house, v. Ayr, 8 
Seafieid church, xiii. Banfl^ 347 
Seafield bath^ L Edinburgh, 766 
Seafield tower, ruins of, ix. Fife, 810 
Seaforth loch, xiv. Ross, 157, 159— lodge, 

124, 126 
Seagate of Irvine, the, v. Ayr, 620^ 

castle, 625 
Seagreens harbour, xi. Kincardine, 271, 

292 
Sea loch of Stevenston, the, v. Ayr, 452 
Seal cave, the, xiv. Rosa, 116 
Seal iale, the, xv. Sutherland, 167 
Sealg loch, the, xiv. Ross, 74 
Seals* pool the, xiv. Ross, 20 
Sea Mab hill, x. Perth, 301 
Seamill, castlehill of; v. Ayr, 257, 258> 
Sea-mill of Musselburgh, the, i. Edin- 
burgh, 271 
Seapark house, xiii. Elgin, 202, 206 
Seartown of Cullen, xiii. Ban^ 325, 329, 

342 
Seat of Catan hill, v. Bute, 8.3, 84 
Seaton house, xi. Forfiur, 497 
Seaton hill, remains found at, ii. Had- 
dington, 184 
Seedhill bridge, vii Renfrew, 277 — mills, 

155— well, 147 
Seedlay, see Sidlaw 
Seggie distillery, ix. Fifo, 226 
Seggiecrook, plumbago at, xiii Banff; 217 
Seggieden house, x. Perth, 1215 
Seidlaw, see Sidlaw 

Seik of Dollar, the, viii Clackmannan, 76 
Seil island, vii. Argyle, 71— loch, 64 
Selibister, district of, xv. Orkney, 133 
Selivoe, xv. Shetland, \00 



I 



Selkirk, parish of, iii Selkirk, I— town, 
8.7 

Selkirkshire, ofaeenrations on, iii Srikiric, 79 

Selma of Ossian, the, vii Argyle, 494 

Semple house, vii. Renfrew, 199— pnn 
perty, 88 

Seton church, ruins of, ii Haddii^g;toiit 
291— <»stle, 284— house, 292— piJace, 
283, 292 

Setonhill, ironworks at, li. Haddingtoii* 
176 — ^propertjr of, 181 

Seuchan water, iv. Dumfries, 297 

Seunta loch, xiv. Inverness, 245 

Seven brethren, stones called, it. Dum- 
fries, 198 

Seven grey stones, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 
287 

Sgiah, coal at, xiv. Roas, 250 

Sgu]>chairie hill, x. PerUi, 529 

Sgur-ghaibre hill, x. Perth, 529 

Shadir bay, xiv. Ross, 142 — ^water, 145 

Shaggie imter, x. Perth, 250, 262, 267 

Shalent, tree at, v. Bute, 100 

Shambelly house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 251 

Shana, see Shuna 

Shandon castle, ruins of, viii Dnnbartoo, 
75 — house, i6. 

Shandwick house, xiv. Ross^ 54— viUi^et 
22, 27 — monumental stone at, 29 

Shank point, scenery oi, i Edinburgh, 174 
—house, 157, 175 

Shankramuir lime quarries, vi Lanark, 
402 

Shankston loch, v. Ayr, 493 

Shannaly mill, xi Forfiu*, 612 

Shan nan hill, viii. Dunbaiton, 155 

Sbanniwilly point, remains found at, â–¼. 
Ayr, 272 

Shannock hill, viii Clackmannan, 70 

Shanter,farm of, v. Ayr, 784 

Shantran hill, viii Dunbiuion, 161, 231 

Shapinshay, island and parish of, xv. Ork- 
ney, 79, 196— standing stone of, 80 

Shaw house, iv. Dumfries, 38 

Shawfield, ruins of chapel at, v. Ayr, 37 

Shawfield, property of, vi Lanark, 375 

Shawhill house, v. Ayr, 610 

Shawpark house, viii Clackmannan, 18, 
43 

Shawshill, iii Selkirk, 30— loch, 36, Rox- 
burgh, 270 — Pictish remains at, 444 

Shaws water works, vii Renfrew, 432 

Shawsburn colliery, vi. Lanark, 723 

Shawtonhill, burial ground at, vi Lanark, 
295 

Sheader, remains found at, xiv. Inveniesi, 
291 

Shead Phoil, tradition regarding, xiv. In- 
verness, 171 

Sheal bum, xii Aberdeen, 1105 

Shealhouse inn, xiv. Ross, 173 

Sheardale coUiery, viii Clackmannan, 82, 
87--quarry, 83 

Shearington, village o^ iv. Dumfries, 566 



QENERAL INDEX. . 



CXXXL 



Shebster hill, ibrts on, xv. Caitfanen, 17 

— ruins of chapel at, t&. 
Sheddocksley house, xil Aberdeen, 238 
Shedog, tumulus at, v. Bute, 46 
Shee water, x. Perth, 899, 904— clen, 199, 

428, 785 
Sheelagreen, plantations at, xil Aberdeen, 

728 
Sheens, origin of name of, i Edinburgh, 

657 
Sheep isle, vil Aigyle, 414 
Sbeepford loch, vi. Lanark, 666 
Sheil, glen, xiv. Ross, 182 — loch and 

water, ib, 
Sheilswood loch, iii. Roxburgh, 269 
Shelky skeny, the, xt. Orkney, 103 
Shell loch, xiv. Ross, 159 
Shelleghan water, x. Perth, 252 
Shelliva loch, xiv. Inverness, 195 
Shelwick bay, xiv. Ross, 117 
Sheraig glen, v. Bute, 4 
Sheriff hall colliery, I Edinburgh, 560, 

570, 575 
Sheriffmuir, site of battle of, x. Perth, 

1040 
Sheriffmuir of Stobo, remains at, iii. 

Peebles, 123 
SheriflTls auld haw, village of, v. Bute, 75 
SheridHs pot, tradition regarding, xi. Kin- 
cardine, 281 
Sherra'b know, the, iiL Selkirk, 45 
Sherrobeg bridge, destruction o^ xiv. In- 
verness, 419 
Sheshemich loch, x. Perth, 786 
Shetland isles, general statistics of, xv. 

Shetland, 145 
Shettleston colliery, vi. Lanark, 422 
Shevock water, xii. Aberdeen, 635, 693, 

728, 748, 749 
Shewalton colliery, v. Ayr, 668 — house, 

678 
Shiach water, xi. Kincardine, 170 
Shian house, x. Perth, 486 
Shieldag, district of^ xiv. Ross, 99 — 

church, lOi, 104— village, 103 
ShieldhiU house, vi. Lanark, 43 — planta- 
tions, 45 
ShieldhiU, village of, xl Kincardine, 317 
Shields bum, viii. Stirling, 239 
Shields, property of, vi Lanark, 668— 

limestone at, 881, 882 
Shiel loch, vii Argyle, 122— water, 124 
Shiel loch, xiv. Inverness, 525 
Shielhill, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 44 
Shielhill colliery, viii. Stirling, 1 93 
Shielhill of Kirriemuir, the, xi. Forfar, 

160— house, 179 
Shielhouse water, i v. Dumfries, 91 
Shiells bum, ii Berwick, 200 
Shin water, xiv. Ross, 282, 404, xv. Su- 
therland, 17, 215— loch, 58r, 215, 216 
Shine ness, xv. Sutherland, 82 
Shineach loch, vii. Argyle, 678 
Shinnel water, iv. Dumfries, 460, 461, 
473 



Shinnelfaead, quarry at, iv. Dumfries, 474 
Ship loch, xiv. Ross, 185 
Shira glen, vii. Ar^le, 2, 6 — water, 1, 6 
ShirvB colliery, viii. Dunbarton, 175, 176^ 

^property, 193 
Shinra hamlet, xv. Shetland, 95 
Shisken, caves at, v. Bute, 41 
Shith, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Shockie water, x. Perth, 168, 164, 199, 

424, 427 
Shogle, Danish camp at, xiii. Elgin, 86 
Shott, stone coffin found at, vi. Lanark, 

320— bum, 624 
Shotts, parish of, vL Lanark, 625— col- 
lieries, i5.— ironworks, 611,825, 62^, 
630— foundery, 631— village, 631 
Shoughends hills, v. Bute, 69 
Shuna castle, ruins of, viL Axgyle, 241 — 

island, 71, 130— sound, 73, 228 
Shurery, Ben,xv. Caithness, 13'-loch, 15 
Shutterflat, barony o^ viu Renfrew, 308 
Si*-ain-na-Rapaicfa hill, viL Argyle, 165 
Sixain sluagh hill, vii. Argyle, 105 
Sianta loch, xiv. Inverness, 245 
Sibbaldbee, annexed parish of, iv. Dum- 
fries, 170 — church, ruins o^ 183 
Sibster house, xv. Caithness, 142 
Siccar point,ii. Berwick, 292, 293, 295,297 
Sichaillein hill, x. Perth, 560 
Side hill, camp on, iii. Roxbui^, 144 
Sidera &rm, xv. Sutherland, 9— hill, 212 
Sidlaw hills, x. Perth, 2, 11, 32,405,406, 
934, 1162, 1167, xi Forfar, 206, 338, 
351, 378, 383, 456, 560, 641, 648, 703, 
Kincardine, 72 
Sight hill, remains at, viii Stirling, 210 
Signet Library, i Edinbuigh, 645 
Siller wells, vi Lanark, 846, 847 
Sillyeam hill, xiii BanH^ 214 
Sillyflat £irm, xi. Kincardine, 21 
Silver castle, ancient camp called, x. Perth, 

1064 
Silver rock, the, xv. Sutherland, 24, 26 
Silver well, the, xii. Aberdeen, 983 
Silverbank, village of, vi Lanark, 431 
SUverbit hall, iii Roxbuigh, 381 
Silvercraigs house, vi Lanark, 116 
SilverhiUoch loch, xii. Aberdeen, 298 
Silvermine' limeworks, ii Linlithgow, 154 
Silverton hill, vi Lanark, 255 — property, 

268 
Simprim, annexed parish of, ii Berwick, 

187— property, 192— quarry, 202 
Simpsonland, coal at, vi Lanark, 258 
Sinavey spring, xi. Forfar, 55 
Sinclair bay and castle, xv. Caithness, 1 1 9, 

141 
Sinclair's aisle, the, xv. Caithness, 142 
Sinclairtown, village of,ix. Fife, 135, 139 
Sinnahard chapel, ruins of, xii Aberdeen, 

417 
Sir Thomas the Rhymer'ii castle, ruins of, 

ii. Berwick, 21 
Sisterpath, the,ii. Berwick, 299— fiirm of, 
225 



-c. 



CILXXU 



aSNEBAL INDEX. 



Sith Chaillm hiU, x. Perth, 529 
Sits of Stevenston, the, v. Ayr, 427 
Ska isle, xv. Shetland, 38 
Skae h^, xv. Orkney, 1 16 
Skail bay, xv. Orkney, 193 
Skaill loch, xv. Orkney, 46, 51 
Skailwick loch, xv. Orkney, 118 
SkateraH', stone coffins found at, ii. Had- 
dington, 243— limeworks, 245 
Skaterigg collieries, vii. Renfrew, 8 
Skavaig bay, xiv. Inverness, 300 — loch, 

296 
Skeahill, xv. Orkney, 114 
Skeen loch, iv. DumfHes, 1 07 
Skeir-nam-maol rocks, xiv. Inverness, 253 
Skeith castle, ruins of, xiii. Banff, 68 
Skeith stone, the, ix. Fife, 976 
Skelbo house, rains of, xv. Sutherland, 4, 6 
Skeld, burial ground at, xv. Shetland, 110 

— voe, JOO 
Skeldaquoy point, xv. Orkney, 226 
Skcldon castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 281 — 
house, 275, 277 — mineral spring at, 274 
— scenery of, 8 
Skelf hill, iii. Roxburgh, 427— British 

camp on, 433 
Skellater house, xii. Aberdeen, 547 
Skellvton colliery, vi. Lanark, 723— quar- 
ry,* 725 
Skelmorlie house and propertv, v. Ayr, 

790, 799 
Skeltimuir, limestone at, i. Edinburgh, 606 
Skene, loch, iv. Dumfries, 107 
Skene, loch, xi. Kincardine, 232 
Skene, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 1096 — 

house, 1097— loch, 1096 
Skeoch hill, v. Ayr, 159 
Skeok, ruins of chapel at, viii. Stirling, 323 
Skemish point, xiv. Inverness, 241 
Skerray, school at, xv. Sutherland, 182 
Skerries, the Pentlund, xv. Orkney, 72, 

191 
Skerries isles, xv. Shetland, 53 — church, 

55 
Skerries isles, xv. Sutherland, 218 
Skerries rocks, xiii. Elgin, 147 
Skerrington collieries, v. Ayr, 606 
Skerryvore lighthouse, vii. Argyle, 198 
Sketraw, village of, xi. Kincardine, 262 
Skeulan tree and well, xii. Aberdeen, 1060 
Skew loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 292 
Skiach loch, x. Perth, 1005 
Skiack burn, xiv. Ross, 315 
Skibba goe, xv. Orkney, 150 
Skibo cjistle, ruins of, xv. Sutherland, 6— 

hills, 2 — improvements at, 4 
Skilmony hill, xii. Aberdeen, 96^ 
Skimmer hills, ii. Haddington, 106 
Skinidean, limestone at, xiv. Inverness, 

302 
Skinnet, suppressed parish of, xv. Caith- 
ness, 68 — ruins of chapel at, 73 
Skinsdale, xv. Sutherland, 135 
Skipness, annexe<\ parish of, \\\. At^yle, 
436— tattle, ruins of, 44ft— vc%\.eT, \'i^ 



Skipport, loch, xiv. Invemeas, 183, 195 
Skirling, pari^ of, iii. Peebles, 99— cas- 
tle, ruins of, 101 
Skirsa head, xv. Caithnein, 22 
Skitten, battle at, xv. Caithneas, 115 
Skreel hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 45, 355 
Sku Kyle, xv. Sutherland, 119, 121 
Skye, island of, xiv. Inverness, 218, 237, 

287, 295, 317, 322 
Skyre bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 374 
Slack burn, iv. Kirkcudbright, 146 
Slack of Bimie, the, xL Kincardine, 74 
Slacks of Tipperty, the, xiii. Banff, 174 
Slade quarry, xi. Forfar, 354 
Slaginnan cave, xii. Elgin, 185 
Slain men's lee, the, iii. Selkirk, 3 
Slains, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 589^ 

castle, ruins of, 593 
Slains hill, xi. Kincardine, 310 
Slam loch, xv. Sutherland, 169 
Slamanan, parish of, viiL Stirling, 273— 

railway, 207, 212, 279 
Slap, mineral spring at, xii. Aberdeen, 

983 
Slaphouse, ruins of chapel at, v. Ayr, 37 
Slappen loch, xiv. InveraesB, 308 * 
Slate, see Sleat 

Slate hill of CulsahnoDd, the, xii. Aber- 
deen, 729 
Slateford, village of, i. Edinburgh, 121 
Slateford or Edasell, village of, xi. Forfiu', 

624 
Slaughter house, Kilsvth, viii. Stirling 

148 
Sleat, parish of, xiv. Inveraeaa, 317 — 

point, lb. — sound, 128 
Sleitill loch, xv. Caithness, 15 
Sleoch, battle of, xii. Aberdeen, 1037 
Sliabhach mount, xiv. Ross, 91 
Sliab nan carachan, the, v. Bute, 52 
Sliach, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 300 
Slickly bum, xv. Caithness, 123 
Sliddcry, ruins of fort at, v. Bute, 52 
Slighshouses, property of, ii. Berwick, 117 
Sligichan, loch, xiv. Inverness, 218, 219 
Sliobgoil hill, vii. Argjie, 408 
Slioch, mount, xiv. Ross, 91 
Slipperfield loch, iii. Peebles, 156 
Slisbeg valley, x. Perth, 686 
Slitrig water, iii. Roxburgh, 76, 209, 210, 

377, 379, 380, 428 
Sloe of Dess, the, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 
Sloch-a-chorrv,cave called, xiv. Inverness, 

161 
Slochd a' nihadaidh rock, xiv. Inverness, 

246 
Slocmuic pass, xiii. Elgin, 1 24 
Slogan a glassin, the, iv. Wigton, 131 
Slougnagarrv, rocks at, iv. Wigton, 104, 

106 
Sloy loch, viii. Dunbarton, 234 
Slug of Achrannie, the, xi. Forfar, 423, 

637 
Slug, road, the, xi. Kincardine, 175 
S\\\^ig\xv Vc\^^'5> VAX. "^c^'go^^ \'?>4. 



\ 



QSNEBAL IKDBX. 



CXXXlll 



Sluie headland, xiiL Elgin, 217 — vale, 

179 — salmon fisheries, 189 
Smailholm, parish o£^ iii. Roxburgh, 140 

^tower, ruins of, 141 
Smallholm, village of, iv. Dumfries, 387 
Small Isles, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 145 
Smeaton house, ii. Haddington, 22 
Smithfield, quarry at, xi. Forfar, 486 
Smith's croft, the, iv. Wigton, 167 
Smith's institution, Ayr, v. Ayr, 77 
Smithston, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 278 — 

house, 757 
Smithston, basaltic columns at, viii. Dun- 
barton, 182 
Smithstowne castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 365 
Smithy hill, tradition regarding, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 227 
Smithyhaugh, village of, x. Perth, 290, 

293 
Smo cave, xv. Sutherland, 84 — harbour, 

101 
Smorale, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 214 
Smyllum house, vi. Lanark, 1 8 
Snab collieries, ii. Linlithgow, 122 
Snabb quarry, iv. Dumfries, 284 
Snabs of Drimmie, x. Perth, 406 
Snadon hill, xi. Kincardine, 270 
Snaigow house, x. Perth, 676 
Snar bum, vi. Lanark, 498, 499 — castle, 

ruins of, 502 — lead mine, 510 
Snawburgh, camp at, xv. Shetland, 25 
Sneddon bridge, vii. Renfrew, 277 
Snelsetter house, xv. Orkney, 74 
Snickert knees hill, vi. Lanark, 81 1 
Snipe loch, v. Ayr, 274, 650 
Snizort, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 287 — 
loch, 237, 287, 289— water, ruins at, 290 
Snook, remains of fort at, iL Berwick, 207 
Snowdon, improvement of, ii Haddington, 

97 
Snusgar castle, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 53 
Soay isle, viL Aigyle, 197, 198, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 296 
Soccathmaam-an-Tuirc hill, xiv. Ro^ 171 
Soccoth hills, xif. Aberdeen, 415, 1013 
Sod kirk, the, xi. Kincardine, 265 
Softlaw farm, iii. Roxburgh, 238, 239 
Solebum bav, iv. Wigton, 123 — water, 

125 
Solway frith, iv. Dumfries, 3, 218, 244, 
246, 256, 259, 262, 349, 356, 518, 
Wigton, 23 
Sommer, tumuli at, viil Dunbarton, 222 
Sommerlee ironworks, vi. Lanark, 613, 

618, 658— quarry, 648 
Sommervillc castle, site of, vi. Lanark, 84 
Sonachan house, vii. Argyle, 373 
Sooty wells, cairn at, xi. Kincardine, 38 
Sorbie, parish of, iv. Wigton, 22— castle, 

ruins of, ib. 29 — village, 33 
Sorbytrees, Pictish remains at, iii> Rox- 

bui^h, 444 
Som, parish of, v. Ayr, 126 — castle, ib. 

133— village, 7, 131, 138, 143 
Somhill, vill^ of, v. Ayr, 611, 614 



Sorrysikemuir, cairns at, iv. Dumfries, 210 
Soudain, loch, vii. Argyle, 302 
Soules cross, v. Ayr, 541 
Soulseat abbev, iv. Wigton, 87— loch, 82, 

83 
Sound, suppressed parish of, xv. Shetland, 

59 
Sound of Eriscay, xiv. Inverness, 193. 
Sound of Handa, xv. Sutherland, 120 
Sound of Harris, xiv. Inverness, 159 
Sound of Scalpay, xiv. Inverness, 302 
Sound of Sleat, xiv. Inverness, 128 
Sounding aisle, Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 

212 
Souterhouse quarry, vi. Lanark, 648 
Southanan bum, v. Ayr, 246 — house, 

ruins o^ 249, 253— plantations, 792— 

sands, 244 
South Arthurlie, fall at, Wi. Renfrew, 

317— printfield, 329 
Southbarr house, vii. Renfrew, 124 
South bay, xv. Orkney, 104 
South brae of Campsie, viiL Stirling, 235 
South bridge of Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 

645 
South Calder water, vi. Lanark, 445, 608, 

766, 771, 944 — Roman bridge over, 

789 
South church of Dundee, xi. Forfar, 41 
South church of Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 

227, 239 
Southdean or Charters, parish of, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 98 
South Devon water, viii. Clackmannan, 8 
Southend, parish of, vii. Argyle, 413 
Southend, district of, v. Bute, 47 
South Esk water, l Edinburgh, 49, 68, 

154, 174, 458, 607- iii. Peebles, 56, 

76, 146 
South Esk water, xi. Forfar, 110, 116, 

123, 129, 130, 165, 198, 246, 254,292, 

436,437,519,520 
Southfield house, i. Edinburgh, 1 1 
Southlield house, ix. Fife, 783 
Southfield house, ii Haddington, 185, 192 

— property, 181 — coins found at, 185 
Southfield house and property, vii. Ren- 
frew, 521 
Southfield, skirmish at, viii Stirling, 402 
Southhall house, vii Argyle, 1 1 1 
South Herbertshire, district of, viii. Stir- 

hng, 116 
South Ingan hill, ix. Kinross, 39 
South Kilruskin, spring at, v. Ayr, 246 
South Kinrara, property of, xiv. Inverness, 

86 
South Kiscadale, remains found at, v. 

Bute, 23 
South Knapdale, parish of, vii Argyle, 

257 
South law, see Sidlaw 
South Lcthan colliery, ix. Fife, 835 
South lodge house, viii. Stirling, 402 
Southmains, Deills dvke tit^ iv. Wv^-w^^ 



CXXXIV 



OSNSaAL IKDBX. 



South Medwin water, vL Lanark, 42, 52, 
944 

South Morir, district o^ viL Arsyle, 118, 
120 

South pariah, Greenock, vii. Renfrew, 455 

South Queensferry, town of, u, Linlith- 
gow, 1 

South Ronaldshay isle, xt. Orkney, 191 

South Ronaldflhay and Burray, united pa- 
rishes of^ xv. Orkney, 191 

South Sannox water, v. Bute, 7— Druidi- 
cal remains at, 23 

South U^e water, xii. Aberdeen, 187 

South Uist, parish and island o^ xy. In- 
verness, 182 

South Whittlebum, improvements at, v. 
Ayr, 808 

Southwick, annexed parish o^ iv. Kirk- 
cudbright, 215 

South Yell, church of, xv. Shetland, 90 

Soutra, annexed parish of, i. Edinburgh, 
534 — church and village of^ 536 — hill, 
534, ii Berwick, 88 

Soy loch, xiv. Banff, 180 

Soya isle, xv. Sutherland, 106 

Spalander loch, v. Ayr, 493— bum, 494 

Spar cave of Strathaird, xiv. Inverness, 
301 

Spartledown hill, ii Haddington, 55 

Spean glen, xiv. Inverness, 504, 505— wa- 
ter, 119, 420, 505 

Spectacle eye mill, fall at, vL Lanark, 
302 

Speddoch, lands of, iv. Dumfries, 554 — 
mill, 560 

Spedlins' tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 
385 

Speedy hill quarry, x. Perth, 428 

Spey loch, xiv. Inverness, 421 

Spey river, xiii. Banft, 110, 113, 123, 124, 
125, 356, 3.57, 358, Elgin, 44, 51, 60, 
63, 92, 124, 126, 141, 228, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 64, 65, 81, 432, 433— salmon 
fisheries, xiii. Elgin, 56, 121 

Spey tower, x. Perth, 670 

Spey, vale of, xiv. Inverness, 418, 419, 
421 

Speymouth, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 51 

Speyside Orphan Hospital, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 440 

Spinningdale, village of, xv. Sutherland, 
20 

Spionnadh hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 

Spiritin castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 14 

Spital bum, the, ix. Fife, 829 

SpittaU suppreceed parish of, iiL Rox- 
burgh, 177 

Spittal of Cavers, the, iii. Roxburgh, 434 

Spittalfield, village of, x. Perth, 677 

Spittal hill of Cambuslang, vi. Lanark, 
431 

Spittal hill of Halkirk, xv. Caithness, 68 

Spittal house, ii. Berwick, 154 

Spittal mire, xiii. Banff, 30 

Spittalhill quarry, v. Ayr, 56ft 



\ 



Spott, parish of, ii Haddington* 224 — 
house, 225, 227— village, 227, 231— 
water, 225 
Spottiswoode chapel, ii Berwick, 71 — 

house, 66, 74— property, 67 
Spout of Oaraock, the, â–¼. Ayr, 691 
Spouty quarry, the, xv. Sutherland, 159 
Springfield house, i Edinburgh 533— 

Roman roadat,«iL 
Springfield, remains found at, ii Linlith- 
gow, 103 
Spring^eld hill, camp on, iv. Domlfies^ 

339— vUlage o^ 267, 270 
Springfield house, vi Lanark, 407 
Springfield house and village, iz. Fifisi, 8 
Springfield house, xi For&r, 496 
Springfield castle, ruins o^ x. Perth, 1065 
Spring garden, remains found in, viii 

StirUng, 426 
Springhall collieries, vi Lanark, 420 
Springhill house, xii Abeardeen, 238 
Springhill, property of, vi Lanark, 487 
Springholm, village of, iv. Kirkcudbrulil, 

852 
SpringkeU house, iv. DumfrieB, 275, 278, 

280--coal at, 277— spring at, 276 
Springaide, improvements at, v. Ayr, 255 
Springwood house, iii Roxbur^ 808, 

320— remarkable trees at, 305 
Sprouston, parish of, iii. Roxbui]di, 235— 

village, 237, 239 
Sput-ban &11, x. Perth, 541 
Spur ness, xv. Orkney, 85 
Spylaw house, i Edinburgh, 111 
Spynie, New, parish of, xiii Elgin, 95— 
loch, drainage of, 29, 33, 95, 96, 146 — 
palace, ruins of, 96 
Srobeman hill, x. Perth, 470 
Stac hill, xiv. Ross, 74 
Stac, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 119 — loch, 

120, 122,217 
Stachd lachlain rock, xiv. Inverness, 246 
Stack isle, xv. Sutherland, 218 
Stack of Noop, the, xv. Orkney, 116 
Stacks of Duncansbay, the, xv. Caith- 
ness, 22 
Stacks of Hempriggs, xv. C-aithneas, 118 
Stackabeig, remains found at, xv. Shet- 
land, 25 
Stadaig head, xiv. Ross, 74 
Stafik isle, viL Argyle, 340, 345, 351 
Staffin bay, xiv. Invemess, 240 
Stagehall, Roman camp at, i Edinbur^ 

416 
Staigholes, relic at, iv. Dumfries, 467 
Staik hill, v. Ayr, 690, 787, vii Renfrew, 

75,83 
Stain, village of, vi. Lanark, 611, 621 
Stair, parish of, v. Ayr, 637 — house, 640, 

641,643 
Standard loch, the, xiii. Banff, 274 
Standhill, sandstone at, iii Roxburgh, 

356 
Standingstones, remains at, iii Roxburgh, 



OIBNBBAL INDBX. 



cxxxv 



Stane, Tillage and collieriefl of, vi. La- 
nark, 611,621 
Stanely hills, wiL Renfrew, 160 — tower, 

ruins o^ 194 
Stanemanniahead, the, xiii. Banff, 155 
Stanhope mills, village of, L Edinbur;g^, 

222 
Stanley braes, viiL Renfrew, 140, 160 
Stanley bum, â–¼. Ayr, 193 
Stanley, chapel at, x. Perth, 181, 454— 
cotton mills, 181, 435— house, 434— 
trees at it, 429 — quarries, 428^~quoad 
tacra parish of, 494 — village, 188, 436, 
442, 1135 
Stanrig colliery, viiL Stirling, 208 
Stanstill house, xv. Caithness, 1 15— bum, 

123 
Staplegorton, old village of, iv. Dumfries, 

420— suppressed paurish of, 425 
Star, village of, ix. Fife, 380 
Stare dam, the, x. Perth, 424— standing 

stones at, 433 
Starly bum, ix. Fife, 405 — harbour, 420 
Starr, stone coffins found at, ix. Fife, 544 

farm of, 551 
Starsach-na-Oael, the, xiv. Invemess, 98 
Starthope hill, camp on, vi. Lanark, 817 
Staslay isle, xiv. Inverness, 185 
Staxigoe, ironstone at, xv. Caithness, 126 
—rocks at, 118— village, 153, 157, 158 
Stead, stone cross at, viL Renfrew, 196 
Steeds' stallsythe, z. Perth, 1035 
Stein, village of^ xiv. Inverness, 353 
Steinscholl, district of^ xiv. Inverness, 240 
church at, 269, 281— mineral spring at, 
245 
Stempster, improvements at, xv. Caith- 
ness, 115— loch, 86 
Stenhouae, lead ore at, iv. Dumfries, 474 
Stenhouse tower, ruins o^ ix. Fife, 414 
Stenhouae house, ruins of^ viii Stirling, 

362— property, 840, 344 
Stenhouse muir, feir of^ viiL Stirling^ 21 

—village, 375 
Stenish, village o£, xiv. Ross, 136 
Stenness isle, xv. Shetland, 71 
Stenness, annexed parish of, xv. Orkney, 
67— lake, 27* 41, 46— standing stones 
of; 54, 68 
Stennis water, iv. Dumfries, 430 
Stenriesliill house, iv. Dumfries, 141 
Stenshiel hiU, u. Berwick, 116 
Stenton, parish of, u, Had4ington, 55— 

village, 56, 59 
Stenton house, x. Perth, 676 
Stepping stones of Glenterra, iv. Wigton, 

85 
Stevenson bum, iii. Peebles, 1 35 
Stevenson house, ii. Haddington, 5— plan- 
tations, 1 
Stevenston, parish of; v. Ayr, 426 — burn, 
427~barony of, 452 — collieries, 439 
—quarry, 193, 437— town, 452, 459 
Stewart monument, L Edinbuigh, 655 
Stewart castle, ruins of; iv. Wigton, 177 



Stewartfield, coins found at, iii. Roxbuiigh, 

13— house, 14 — woods, 5 
Stewartfield, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 150 
Stewarton, parish of, v. Ayr, 727— town, 

734, 737 
Stewarton, village of, vi. Lanark, 621 
Stewarton, village of, xiv. Invemess, d77t 

395 
Stewart town, village of, iv. Wigton, 114, 

120 
Stewarfft Raiss castle, ruins of, vii. Ren- 
frew, 193 
Stev Amry rock, v. Ayr, 516 
StielPs hospital, ii. Haddington, 301, 302 
Stinchdr frurmers^ association, v. Ayr, 422 

—water, 335, 395, 407, 408, 416, 528 
Stirkfield quarry, iiL Peebles, 82 
Stirkoke house, xv. Caithness, 142— strath 

of, 119 
Stirkrigg, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 283 
Stirling, parish, town, and castle of, viiL 

Stirling, 390— Caledonian society, 441 
Stirling Ull, xiL Aberdeen, 345 — granite 

quarries of; 363 
Stirlingshire, observations on, viiL Stir- 

Ung, 451 
Stirton, property o^ ix. Fife, 551 
Stitchell house, iii. Roxburgh, 457— vil- 
lage, 458 
Stitchell and Hume, united parishes of, 

iiL Roxburgh, 456 
Stob-an-daimh hill, viL Argyle, 83 
Stobbs castle, iiL Roxburgh, 426, 428 
Stobbs mills, village of, L Edinburgh, 183 
Stobchon hill, x. Perth, 345 
Stobhall house, x. Perth, 1169 
Stobhill, village of, i. Edinbuigh, 53— 

colliery, 606 
Stobo, parish of, iiL Peebles, 121— bum, 

ib. — castle, 123 
Stobs, gunpowder mills o^ L Edinburgh, 

53 
Stobsmuir quarry, xL Forfer, 5 
Stockbridge, chapel at, iL Berwick, 314 
Stockleton dike, vL Lanark, 621 
Stockmuir, Draidical circle at, x. Perth, 

•221 
Stocky muir, viiL Stirling, 100 
Stone house of Kinnell, xL Forfar, 396 
Stone of Morphy, the, xi. Kincardine, 281 
Stone of the Tube, the, xiv. Inverness, 16 
Stonebyres, falls of, vL Lanark, 5 — hill, 

554 — Chouse, 957 
Stonefield bay, viL Argyle, 516 
Stonehaven bay, xL Kincardine, 214 — 

fisheries, 261— town, 223, 227, 229, 

244, 262— camp at, 249 
StonehiU hill, vL Lanark, 518, 520— 

quarry, 811 
Stone Hone, xv. Caithness, 115 
Stonehouse tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 

266 
Stonehouse, remains at, v. Ayr, 482 
Stonehouse, parish of, vL Lanark^ 4^% — 

v\Uft«^4^^,4nv 



CXXXVl 



OEHBIIAL IVDBX. 



Stonelaw collienr, ri, Lanark, 378, 420 

< — propertj and home, 377 
Stone Sudd, xr. Caithness, 115 
Stones of Kiniemuir, the, xi. Forfiv , 1 76 
Stonerfield, Dmidical circle at, xir. In- 

TernMB, 15 
Stoneyhill house, L Edinburgh 281 
Stoneyhill, property of, iL Linlithgow, 25 
Stonejpath hill, iL Haddington, 61 ^ 

tower, ruins of, 65 
Stoneywood mi Us, viii. Stirling, 129 
Stony'ford moss, iii. Roxburgh, 270 
Stony kirk, parish of, iv. Wigton, 162 
Stoos head, xr. Orkney, 191 
Store hill, xir. Inverness, 221, 287 
Store, qwxid tacra pariah of^ xt. Suther- 
land, 112, 116— point, 105 
Stormontfield bleachfield, x. Perth, 1070 
Stormonth, battle of; xi. For&r, 173 
Stormy rock, the, xi?. Ross, 10 
Stomoway bay, m Argyle, 409 
Stomoway, parish of, xiv. Ross, 115 — 
district' and town, ib. 127, 135— loch, 
117 
Stotfield harbour, xiii Elgin, 147 — head, 

83 —village, 155, 156 
Stotfield, remains found at, iiu Roxburgh, 

261— rocks at, 254 
Stove, rocks at, xv. Orkney, 87 
Stow, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 398 — vil- 
lage, 422 
Stracathrow, see Strickathrow 
Strachan, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 231 
Strachur bay, vii. Argvle, 107 — hills and 

valley, 104— house, 105 
Strachur and Stralachlan, united parishes 

of, vii. Argyle, 1 03 
Strachurmore house, vii. Argyle, 105 
Strae glen, vii. Argvie, 84 — water, ib. 
Strafiirrar glen, xiv. Inverness, 363 
Strafontane, ancient parish o^ ii. Ber- 
wick, 106, 108— church, ruins of, 109 
Strageath, Roman camp of, x. Perth, 327 
Straid well, x. Perth, 313 
Straiten quarry, i. Edinburgh, 21 
Straiton, parish of, v. A>t, 333^\illage, 

it. 338, 340, 342 
Stralachlan, annexed parish of, "vii. Ar- 
gyle, 103— valley, 104 
Straloch, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 1025 

—house, 1029— plantations, 1027 
Stranamban loch, vii. Argyle, 281 
Stranathrow harbour, xL Kincardine, 245 

— rocks at, ib. — village, 262 
Strand, ruins of chapel at, xv. Shetland, 

25 
Strandiburgh head, xv. Shetland, 49 
Strand ufF house, xii. Aberdeen, 334 
Strand wick voe, xv. Shetland, 33 
Stranraer, parish and town of, iv. Wig- 
ton, 89, 94 
Strath, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 300 
Strath of Badenoch, xiv. Inverness, 82 
Strath of Monteatb, viii. 'Sl\iVviv%, 4^ 
Strathachvaich, xv. SulV\eT\aivA, 1 



Strathaird, chapel at, xiv. InT eiuc— , 31 2 

— propcoiy o^ SOS—^mt cmTe Of^ 301 
Strathalladale, xt. Caithneny 12, 13 
Strathallan, x. Perth, 313 
Straihardle, x. Perth, 637, 639, 785 
Stratharen, parish t^ ri. Lanark, 301 — 

town, i6. 308 
Strathbeg bum, xiL Aberdeen, 218 — loch, 
ib. 219, 704 
' Strathbeg, XT. Sutherland, 83» 84 — water 

88 
■ Strathblane, parish of; tiIL StirliniL 71 — 
hUls,»6. 
Strathbogie, xiiL Banff, 203— castle, mins 

of, xiL Aberdeen, 1037 
Strathbrock, propoty of, ii. Linlithgow, 

85,86 
Strathbrora, xt. Sutherland, 46, 149 
Strathbungo, village of, vi Lanark, 694 
Strathcaimaig, xv. Sutherland, 2 
' Strathcarron, school at, xiv. Row, 431 
Strathceannard, xiT. Ross, 74 
Strathconnon, xir. Ross, 399 — church at, 

238 
Strathcroe, xiv. Ross, 182 
Strathdeam, xiii. Elgin, 124— Nairn, 44, 
xiv. Inverness, 98 — mountains, 448, 
449 
StrBthdee, xiL Aberdeen, 1048 
: Stiathdighty, xL Forfi&r, 54 
' Strathdinard, xt. Sutherland, 84 
Strathdon, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 525 
Stratheam, X. Perth, 313, 492— agricul- 
tural association, 515, 713 — castle, site 
of; 251 
Stratheden, ix. Fife, 921, Kinross, 4 

Strathendrick, viii. Stirling, 63, 100 

farmers* club, 109 
Strathendry house, ix. Fife, 116 — im^ 

provements at, 1 23 
Stratherrick, xiiL Elgin, 124 
Strathfarrar, xiv. Inverness, 496 
Stratbfenella, xL Kincardine, 69 — hill, 

24, 69 
Strathfillan, viii. Dunbarton, 236, x. 
Perth, 1078— ruins of cathedral, 1088 
— holy pool of, ib. — mission and cha- 
pel, 1092 
Strathfleet, xv. Sutherland, 25, 46, 215 
Strathfloid, xv. Sutherland, 47 
Strathglass, xiv. Inverness, 37, 363, 484 
Strathgrjfe, vii. Renfrew, 75 
Strathhead house, x. Perth, 434 
Strathhelmsdale, xv. Sutherland, 134 
Strathherrie, xiv. Inverness, 52, 58 
Strathiligh, xv. Sutherland, 134 
Strathkiness quarries, ix. Fife, 474 — vil- 
lage and chapel, 479, 481 
Strathmartine, annexed parish of, xL For- 
far, 54 
Strathmiglo, ix. Kinross, 4 — parish of, 
Fife, 775 — village, 779— rocks at, 921 
Strathmore, x. Perth, 142,232,898, 1167 
V ^iwitVvmore, xL Forfar, 337, 346, 383, 

4 



aSHEBAL Il^DBX. 



CtXXTll 



Strethmore, xiv. InTCfitiMS, 302 
Strathmore« xv. Sutherland, 83, 84-- -wa- 
ter, 87 
Strathnairn, xilL Nairn, 44, xiv. Inver- 

nesa, 514 
Strathnaaealg hills, xiv. 'Robb, 74 
Strathnaver, xv. Sutherland, 66y 67-— re- 
mains in, 71 
Strathoikell, xiv. Roes, 406, 428-.defeat 

of Montrose at, x?. Sutherland, 51 
Strathord, x. Perth, 426 
Strathore house, ix. Fife, 749 
Strathpeffer, xiv. Ross, 211, 244,247— 

hills, -212— spa, 213, 248 
Strathrathy, xv. Sutherland, 67 
Strathrhidorch, xiv. Ross, 74 
Strathrory, xiv. Ross, 434 
Strathrusdale, xiv. Ross, 263 
Strathtay, x. Perth, 686 
Strathtummel, x. Perth, 559 
Strathvagasty, xv. Sutherland, 69 
Strathy, cave at, xv. Sutherland, 67, 68 

—bay and loch, 68, 217— water, 69, 

215 
Strathyre, x. Perth, 844— village, 847 
Stravanan bay, v. Bute, 83 
Straven, see Strathaven 
Stravithy castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 365 
Stream sound, xv. Shetland, 9 
Streethouse, Roman road at, iii. Rox- 

bui^h, 196 
Strettum brae, xlL Aberdeen, 1092 
Strichen, pariah of, xH. Aberdeen, 687— 

house, tS. 
Strickathrow, parish of, xu For&r, 662 — 

hill, 664— house, 666 
String loch, vii. Axgyle, 64 
Striven loch, vii. Argyle, 108, 109 
Stroin mount, xv. Sutherland, 119 
Strom lake, xv. Shetland, 68 
Stroma isle, xv. Caithness, 22, Orkney, 72 
Stromberry head, xv. Orkney, 79 
Strome ferry, xiv. Ross, 109---ca8tle, ruins 

of, 110 
Stromness, parish' of^ xv. Orkney, 26— 

head, 104— town, 29, 34, 216 
Stron hill, viii. Dunbarton, 155, 158, 170 

— colliery, 175, 177 — ironstone at, 179 
Stronchrubie, caves at, xv. Sutherland, 

106 — limestone at, 108— remains at, 

112 
Strone point, vii Argyle, 574 
Strone Rungie, cairns at, xv. Sutherland, 

201 
Stronfreggan water, iv. Kirkcudbrig^ 

369 
Stronmalenoeh hUl, viii. Dunbarton, 155 
Stronsay isle and frith, xv. Orkney, 86, 

156 
Stronsay and Eday, united parities of, 

XV. Orkney, 156 
Stronshira headtend, vii. Aigyle, 3 
Strontian laid mines, vii Argyle, 134, 

154 — quoad sacra parish of, 158— val- 
ley, 124 

VOL, XV, 



Strowan house, x. Perth, 741'*A]inezed 

parish of, 723 
Strubster, kirk of, xv. Caithness, 160 
Strude glen, viii. Stirling, 177 
Stniay cliffs, v. Bute, 41— 4»ve at, 55 
Struie hill, xiv. Ross, 434 
Struthers house, ruins of, ix. Fife, 524 
Struthil well, x. Perth, 314 
Struy well, xiv. Inverness, 487 
Stryal cairn, the, iv. Dumfries, 445 
Stuart castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 382, 

391 
Stuartown, village of, xiv. Inverness, 377, 

395 
Stuck, chfupel at, x. Perth, 272 
Stuckgoun, property of, viii Dunbarton, 

97 
Stuckindroin, cave at, viii Dunbarton, 95 
Stuick-a-chroin hilU x. Perth, 349 
Succoth, property of, viii Dunbarton, 43 
Suddy, annexed parish of, xiv. Ross, 57 

— property of, 59 
Sugar loaf hill, xv. Sutherland, 105 
Suidhe Chalhmi chille, the, v. Bute, 54 
Suidhe Chatain hill, v. Bute, 83, 84 
Suidhe Choir Fhionn, the, v. Bute, 52 
Suidhe Chuiman hill, xiv. Inverness, 56 
Suilven hills, the, xv. Sutherland, 105, 

213 
Suiqgill, strath of, xv. Sutherland, 134 
Sullom voe, xv. Shetland, 56, 7 1 
Sulnaba spring, xiv. Ross, 21 
Sumburgh h&ad, xv. Shetland, 145 — 

lighthouse, 94 
Summer isles, the, xiv. Ross, 74 
Summerlee ironworks, vi. Lanark, 64«t, 

«48, 658 
Summersdale, battle of, xv. Orkney, 68 
Summerville house,iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 
Sunadale water, vii. Aigyle, 438 
Sunart, district of, vii Argyle, 118, 119 

— ^loch, 119, 121, xiv. Inverness, 625 
Sundaywell tower, ruins of, iv. Dmnfries, 

341 
Sunderland hall, iii Selkirk, 5 
Sunderland house, vii. Argyle, 661 
Sundhope water, iii. Roxbuigh, 442 
Sundrum castle, v. Ayr, 651, 656 — col- 
lieries, 651, 660 — loch, 650— quarry, 

659 
Sunlaws, caves at, iii Roxburgh, 128— 

tower, ruins of, 1 30 
Sunnybank quarries, ix. Fife, 839, 841 
Sunnybrae, rocks at, iii. Roxbuigh, 3 
Sunnyside house, i Edinburgh, 11 
Sunnyside house, vi Lanark, 18— mari 

pits, 6 
Surgeons* hall, Edinburgh, i Edinburgh, 

687 
Susanna lead mine, vi. Lanark, 336 
Sutherlandahire, observations on, xv. Su- 
therland, 212 
Sutors of Cromarty hills, xiv. Ross, 1 9^ 

22, 30, 268 

S 



CXXXVUl 



OBNBBAL INDEX. 



Swana loch, xv. Orkney, 198 
Swanbister, freestone at, xv. Orkney, 17 — 

ruins <if palace at, 18 
Swanston, village of, i. Edinbuigh, 121 
Swarbach^ii minn, channel called, x v. Shet- 
land, 99 
Swartmill loch, xv. Orkney, 1 18 
Swellhead, improvements at, xi Kincar^ 

dine, 192 
Sween, sec Swen 

Sweetheart abbev, ruins of, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 249 
Swen castle, ruins, &c. oi^ vii. Arg}'le, 261 , 

636— loch, 632 
Sweno^ stone, xiii. Elgin, 165, 246 
Swina ness, xv. Shetland, 38 
Swindon hilU iii. Roxburgh, 448 
Swinehill colliery, xi, Lanark, 723 
Swiney property of, xv. Caithnen, 88— 

castle, ruins of, 91 
Swinkie hill, urns found at, ix. Fife, 955 
Swinnie, ciunp at, iiL Roxburgh, 1 1 — re- 
mains found at, 1 3 
Swinridgcmiiir collieries, v. Ayr, 232— 
house, 220 — ironstone at, 21 3 — planta- 
tions 216 
Swinsev water, r. Avr, 728 
Swinside quarry, iii Roxburgh, 255 
Swinton Ioch,iL Berwick, 187 — house, 189 
— plantations, ib. — property, 1 90— vil- 
lage, 193 
Swinton and Simprim, united parishes of, 

ii. Berwick, 187 
Switha isle, xv. Orkney, 78 
Swona isle, xv. Orkney, 72, 191 
Sword well, the,iv. Dumfries, 526— battle 

at, 256 
Swordle, wood at, xiv. Ross, 162 
Sword ly valley, xv. Sutherland, 67 
Swurd-'danes, the, xiii. Banff, 224 
S>'dhcrf house, ii. Haddington, 333 — hill, 

42 
Symington house, i. Edinburgh, 4 1 7 
S}Tnington, parish of, v. Ayr, 565— vil- 
lage, ib, 
Symington, parish of, vi. Lanark, 867 
Synion's field, &c. iii. Roxburgh, 228 
SynninesB castle, ruins of, iv. Wigton, 69' 
Synton moss, iii. Roxburgh, 269 — Chouse 

and plantations, 271 
Sypland, British fort at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

20 
Svpsies, limestone at, ix. Fife, 944 — house, 

' 977— loch, 974 
Syster loch, xv. Caithness, 36 
Taamer isle, xiv. Inverness, 296 
Tactagill bum, xv. Shetland, 103 
Taf bum, iii. Peebles, 39 
Tain, parish of, xiv. Ross, 280— hill, 281 
—quarries, 283, 294— town, 289, 292, 
295 
Tai-na-bloir, battle of, x. Perth, 326 
Tainf; hamlet, xv. Shetland, 95 
Tnirth water, vi. Lanark, 52 
Takmivdoon, view from, viii. Stirling, 140 



Tala mo8i» ddimiali at, iii. Peebles, 64 
Talla ialet and caaUe, z. Perth, 1998 
Tallan loch, viL Argylt^ 661 
TaUisker£snii,xiv. In%'enieai,295— hoosr 

296 
Talmine bay, xr. Sutherland, 168— quar 

ry. 179 
Tamanurie hill, xiiL Banff; 112 
Tamaree mills, viii. Stirling, 127 
Tammy Ii bole, pool called, xL Foi&r, 31^ 
Tamnahara hill, viiL Dunbart4Mi, 104,23 

—loch, lOd 
Tamnatherskina bill, viiL Stirling 61 
Tamna-uriskin hill, viii. Stirling, 61 
Tanara isle, xiv. Rooa, 74 
Tangleha, village of, xL Kincardine, 27 J 

285 
TankemesB, plantations at, xt. Orknc? 

177 — house, 179 
Tanna loch, v. Bute, 32 
Tannach house, xv. Caithness, 142— moa 

123, 126 
Tannachv house, xiii. Banff; 253, 2SJ 

Elgin, *1 67 
Tannadice, parish of, xi. For&r, 198- 

house, 200 
Tanner water, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 
Tannock park house, v. Ayr, 496 
Tantallan castle, iL Haddington, 29, 311 

323, 328 
Taocheillein castle, viL Argyle, 85 
Tarbat, parish of, xir. Ross, 460— hooM 

20, 302, 306, 468 — ness and lighthoiM 

460, xiii Elgin, 147 
Tarbathy hill, xii. Aberdeen, 242, 244 
Tarbatmains, plantations at, xiv. Ross. 30 
Tarbart, mission of, xiv. Inveme», 158 
Tarbert bav,vii. Aigyle, 396 — castle, ruin 

of, 4l0^1och, 409— vUlage, 274, 411 
Tarbert bav, viiL Dunbarton, 95 — inn, 9t 

101 
Tarbert hill, v. Ayr, 244 
Tarbet castle, rock called, ii. Haddingtoi 

204 
Tarbet bay, iv. Wigton, 201 
Tarbhach,' battle of, xiv. Ross, 405 
Tarbolton, see Torbolton 
Tarf water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 38, 64, 61 

Wigton, 196 
Tarf water, xi Forfar, 192 
Tarff water, xiv. Inverness, 51 
Tarlain well, xiii. Banff, 274 
Tarland bum, xii Aberdeen, 840 — vilUgi 

843 
Tarland and Migvie, united parishes o 

xii. Aberdeen, 839 
Tarlogie, plantations at, xiv. Ross, 286 
Tamty, see Trinity GadL 
TarraiPs stone, xiv. Inverness, 483 
Tarras water, iv. Dumfries, 437, 485 — pe 

trifying spring, 486 
Tarrensay isle, xiv. Inverness, 155 
Tarreoch limeworks, v. Ayr, 328 
Tarrieclerack, the, xiii Banff; 255 
Tarriemount quarry, xiii Banff", 248 



OBNBAAL INDEX* 



CXXXIX 



Tarry mill, xL Forikr,495 
Tarrymuick moor, yl Lanark, 608 
Tarth water, ui. Peebles, 127, 135, 136 
Tarty hill, xii. Aberdeen, 800, 805 
Tarves, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 667 
Tarvet house, ix. Fife, 8 — tower, ruins of, 

524^pinning mills, 527 
Tashy bum, ironstone at, vL Lanark, 81 
Tauneray isle and oaves, ziv. Ross, 158 
Tavanach isle, viii. Ihinbarton, 157 
Tay, frith of, ix. Fife, 512, x. Perth, 826, 

xi, Forfar, 2, 539 
Tay, loch, x. Perth, 453, 454, 705, 1079 
Tay, river, ix. Fife, 56, 57, 82, 506, 578, 
579, 592, 596, x. Perth, 7,8, 9,46, 163, 
165, 369, 370, 405, 407, 424, 455,609, 
672, 686, 757, 962, 1044, 1130, 1168, 
1210, xi. Forfkr, 1,569 
Tayfield house, ix. Fife, 508 
Taymouth castle, x. Perth, 468^woods, 

460 
Tayocks, property of, xi. Forfar, 123 
Tayribbi, village of, viL Argyle, 251 
Teagus, loch, vii. Ai^^le, 168, 183 
Tealing, parish of, xi. For&r, 378 
TeampuU Choain, ruins of, xiv. Inveraeas, 

305 
TeampuU Frangaig, ruins of, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 305 
Teampull na Trianaide, ruins of, xiv. In- 
verness, 1 69 
Teaninich, stone at, xiv. Ross, 343 
Teamate, ancient mines of, vii. Argyle, 

170— loch, 166 
Teasses house, ix. Fife, 525-^lime quarry, 

520 
Teith water, viii. Stirling, 306, x. Perth, 
350, 351, 1160, 1225, 1*226, 1248, 1249 
—bridge, 1230 
Teller's well, xii Aberdeen, 298 
Temple close, xii. Aberdeen, 447 
Temple hall and well, il Berwick, 171 
Temple, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 49 — 

church, 51 — village, 52, 53 
Temple, village of, ix. Fife, 442 
Temple house, ii. Haddington, 193 
Temple, ruins at, xiv. Inverness, 45, 56 
Temple hall, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 582 
Temple house, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 116 
Templecrofl, remains found at, xiv. Ross, 

252 
Temple Denny, district of, viii. Stirling, 

117 
Templehall house, ix. Fife, 718 
Templehouse quarry, v. Ayr, 291 — vil- 
lage, 731 
Templeland house, xii. Aberdeen, 601 
Templeton, village of, xi. Forfiir, 560 
Tenandry, quoad aacra parish of, x. Perth, 

662 
Tendal water, vii. Argyle, 479 
Tent's moor, the, ix. Fife, 219, x. Perth, 4 
Tequliats lime quarry, ix. Fife, 520 
Temavie, ruins of, x. Perth, 717 
Terperse, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 446 



Terraughty house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 2!26 
Terreagles, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

230 
Terringzean castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 482 
Terrothead, chapel at, iii. Roxburgh, 437 
Terry chapel, rums of, xii. Aberdeen, 1 122 
Terth, see Tarth 
Tervie bum, xiiL Banff; 126 
Tetherewe &rm, xi Forfiir, 123 
Teuchats lime quarry, ix. Fife, 520 
Teunan, see Forglen 

Teviot river, iii. Roxburgh, 2, 24, 76, 87, 
128, 177, 220, 221, 241, 280, 281, 301, 
379, 380, 425, 428, 460 
Teviotbank hoiise, iii. Rolbiu^h, 354, 

356, 372 
Teviotdale, iii Roxburgh, 460, 461— agri- 
cultural association,404 
Teviotstone hill, iii. Roxburgh, 426 
Texa isle, vii Argyle, 661 
Thainston hill, xii Aberdeen, 655— house, 

660 
Thankerton, annexed parish of^ vi. La- 
nark, 873 — collieries and village, 793, 
875 
Theafiil stone, the, vi. Lanark, 597 
Theodosia, Roman town of, viii Dunbar- 

ton, 4 
Thickside, embankment at, iv. Dumfries, 

409 
Thiers buss, the, xi Kincardine, 239 
Thief* cave in Monzie, x. Perth, 264 
Thiers road, the, iii Peebles, 1 16 
Thieves and Nappers, the, iv. Wigton, 233 
Thimble row village, iii. Roxburgh, 198 
Thirdpart house, ix. Fife, 977-^woods» 

974 
Thirl stane, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 235 
Thirlestane hill, iii. Roxbur^ 161— 

house, 163 
Thirlestane tower and castle, ruins of, iii. 

Selkirk, 68 
Thirlstane castle, ii Berwick, 3, 5 — pro- 
perty, 3 
Thistle bridge, coins found at, x. Perth, 

177 
Thom loch, v. Ayr, 804 
Thomas the Rhymer's castle, ruins of^ ii. 

Berwicki21 
Thomaston castle, ruins of; v. Ayr, 782 
Thomastown, fossil remains found at, xii. 

Aberdeen, 299 
Thomson's cave, iii Roxburgh, 244 
Thorlieshope, farm of, iii Roxburgh, 99 

— limestone at, 442 
Thom, village of, vii. Renfrew, 190, 200, 

249 
Thom trees of Polwarth, the, ii. Berwick, 

234 
Thomhill quarry, vi. Lanark, 835 
Thomhill, village of, iv. Dumfries, 91, 97, 

99, 100 
Thomhill, vUlage of,x. Perth, 1248, 1265, 

1281 
Thomithwaite, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 



cxl 



aBHE&AL UIDBX. 



Thornlie bank, village of, vii. Renfrew, 41 | 
Tbornmuir limeworks, vi. Lanark, 569 
Thornton, Dniidical remains at, xiL Aber- 
deen, 622 
Thornton collieries, ix. Fife, 661 — vitriol 
manufactory, 677 — village and chapel, 
682 
Thornton, fossil remains at, xL Foriar, 342 
Thornton castle, ii. Haddington, 241— 

water, 235 
Thornton aisle, xl Kincardine, 301—* 

castle, 25, 302 
Thornton, limeworks at^ vi Lanark, 882 
Thomtonloch, village of, it Haddington, 

233, 236, 246 
Thomtree mains, ii. Haddington, 293 
Thorny bank, village of, L Edinbuighy 501 
lliomydyke, villi^e of, ii. Berwick, 63 
Thomylee, quarry at, iii. Peebles, 28 
Threave castle, ruins and history o^ iv. 

Kirkcudbright, 157, 181 
Three brethren cairn, hill of, iii Selkirk, 2 
Three kings rocks, xiii. Banff, 316 
Threepwood, remains at, v. Ajrr, 578 — 

milLs at, 591 
Three shire stone, vi Lanark, 498 
Three Sisters rocks, v. Ayr, 245 
Three thorns quarry, v. Ayr, 335 
Three trees of Dysait, the, ix. Fife, 133 
Three wells &rm, xi Kincardine, 21 
Thriepland hum, vi Lanark, 883, vii. 

Renfrew, 386, 537 
Thrieplaw church, ruins of, ii Hadding- 
ton, 180 
Thrieve castle, niins and histoiy of, iv. 

Kirkcudbright, 157,181 
Thripptt haugh, vi. l^nark, 257 
Throsk harbour, viii. Stirling, 306— tile- 
work, 332 
Through-let channel, vii Renfrew, 409 
Thrumster, chapel at, xv. Caithness, 160 

— Pictisb remains, &c. at 137, 141 
Thugar stane, the, v. Ayr, 294 
Thuk, chapel at, viii. Stirling, 335 
Thura, property of, xv. Caithness, 116 
Thurso, parish of, xv. Caithness, 1 — town, 
1, 3, 7 — castle, ruins of, 4 — river, 1, 2 
—bay, I, 7 
Thurston, propertv, &c. of, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 234, 23«, 239 
Tibl3craiore, parish of, x. Per^h, 1028 
Tibbers castle, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 503 

— Roman camp of, 327 
Ticl water, ix. Fife, 148, 249, 801 
Tig water, v, Ayr, 415, 416 
Tighary point, cave at,xiv. Inverness, 161 
Tiglie t^ilmhidh na Druinich, the, xv. Su- 
therland, 111 
Tigh na craig, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 45 
Tigh'n'Sealg, the, xiv. Inverness, 152 
Till water, iii. Roxburgh, 160, 450 
Tillanamols house, xii. Abonleen, 723 
Tiller hum, \i. fiJinark, 765, 772 
Tillery house, xii. Aberdeen, 6J>8 
Tillicoultry, )><irif<h of, viii. Clackmanimn, 



66— house, ib. 70, 72, 77— bum, 67— 

—village, 73 
Tilliebreen, tradition re^tfding, xii Aber- 
deen, 1069 
TUliecaim, urns found at, xii Aberd^eOv 

1060 
Tillie Tudlem castle, vi Lanark, 944 
Tilliom, Pictiflh camp at, xii Aberdeen, 

738 
Tillphoudie house, ruinsof^ xii Aberdeen, 

1056— hiU,»6. 
Tillyangus, skirmish at, xii Aberdeen, 850 
Tillydaff^ cairn, xii Aberdeen, 425 
TiUyfour house, xii Aberdeen, 639— {>lan* 

tations, 636 
Tillygreig house, xii. Aberdeen, 182 
Tillyminnet glen, xiii Banff, 95 
Tillymuick hill, xii Aberdeen, 693 
Tillyochie mill, ii. Kinross, 14 
Tillythrowie, ruins of chapel Hi, xiiL 

Banff, 97 
Tilny glen, xt. Sutherland, 134 
Tilt, glen, x. Perth, 559— water, 560 
Tilwhilly castle, xi Kincardme, 343, 348 

— limeworks, 330— property, 325 
Timah bum, iii. Selkirk, 61 
Timpandean tower, ruins of, iii Roxburgh , 

11. 
Tina, Roman station o^ xi Forfiir, 663 
Tine, see Tyne 

Tingwall loch, xv. Shetland, 59, 68 
Tingwall, Whiteness, and Weeedale^ 

united parishes of, xv. Shetland, 69 
Tinnis castle, iii. Peebles, 41, 73 — hill 

and water, Roxburgh, 441 
Tinto hill, vi. Lanark, 93, 94, 517, 518, 

867, 953— tumuli on, 870 
Tinwald downs, iv. Dumfries, 16 — house, 

44 
Tinwald and Trailflat, united parishes o^ 

iv. Dumfries, 39 
Tipperty, spring at, xiii Banff, 147 — hill, 

149 
Tirally bay, iv. Wigton, 201 
Tiree isle, vii. Argyle, 195 
Tiree and Coll, united parishes of, vii 

Argyle, 195 
Tirefoor castle, ruins of, vii Argyle, 242 
Tister, property of, xv. Caithness, 114 
Titwood, lands of, vi Lanark, 668 
Tiviot, see Teriot 
Tobar a chinn, tradition r^;arding, xiv. 

Inverness, 315 
Tobar Acraig well, xv. Caithness, 70 
Tolmr Asliig well, xiv. Inverness, 3p5 
Tobar Massan well, xv. Sutherland, 191 
Tobar na domhnuich, the, xiv. Ross, 257 
Tobar na gul spring, xiv. Inverness, 380 
Tobar na h'Annait well, xiv. Inverness, 305 
Tobar nam Fiann hill, x. Perth, 786 
Tobar na Muire, xiv. Ross, 344 
Tobar nil Hiainte, xiv. Ro^s, 21 
Tobermory, quoad sacra parish of, vii. Ar- 
gyle, 354 — village, ih. 
Tobtrnareal, battle of, x. Perth, 1103 



QSl^BBAL JITDSX. 



cxli 



Toberonochy harbour, vii. Aigyle, 73 — 

village, 79 
Tochieneal, spring at^ xiii Banff, 316«— 

cottage, 317— distillery, 341 
Tod craigs, iii. Roxburgh, 161 
Todhead hill, xi. Kincardine, 310 
Todheugh quarry, iL Berwick, 171 
Todholes colliery, v. Ayr, 443 
Todholes castle, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 68 
Todshawhaugh, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 91 
Todshawbill, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 90 
Tod^s mill, dens at, ii. Linlithgow, 124 
Toflferry, tradition regarding, xv. Caith- 
ness, 138 
Toflholm, Pictish remains at, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 444 
Toftingall, loch, xv. Caithness, 50 
TofU, geological appearances at, iiL Rox- 
burgh, 255 
Toftsness, ruins on, xv. Orkney, 136 
Tolbzies stone, ix. Fife, 732 
Tolla loch, vii. Argyle, 85 
ToUcross, village of, vi. Lanark, 652 
Tollie, suppressed parish of, xiv. Ross, 

252— scenery of, 264 
Tollis hill, camp on, ii Berwick, 5 
ToUo hill, xi. Kincardine, 178 
Tollpark, Roman remains at, viii. I>un- 

barton, 141 
Tolquhon castle, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 

669 
Tolsta bay, xiv. Ross, 117— head, 1 IB- 
sands, 117 
Tom-arbhoid, antiquities at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 56 
Tomachar, sculptured stone at, xii. Ahet- 

deen, 1072 
Tom-a-chastel, x. Perth, 491, 734 
Tom-archroich, the, xiv. Inverness, 391 
Tom-a-mhoid, the, xiv. Inverness, 391 
Tom-an-moid, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 325 
Tomantoul, see Tomintoul 
Tomatin, plantations at, xiv. Inverness, 

103 
Tombia, chapel at, xiiL Banff, 140 
Tomdow rock, xiii. Elgin, 63 
Tom Eanraic, superstition regarding, xiv. 

Inverness, 469 
Tomenbowie church, ruins of, x. Perth, 

272 
Tomintoul, qttoad aacra parish of, xiii. 
'Banff, 296— village, 138, 301, SOS- 
church, &c. 307 
Tom Mhoit, British fort at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 470 
Tommore burn, xiii. Banff, 1 26 
Tom-na-Chessaig hill, x. Perth, 355 
Tomnaclag hill, viii. Punharton, 1 57 
Tomna-hivrich, Druidical remains on, xii 

Aberdeen, 958 
Tomnahurich hill, xiv. Inverness, 8, 13 
Tomnarroch bum, xiii Nairn, 27 
Tomnavin distillery, xiii. Banff, 1 98 
Tomnavcrie, a Druidical temple, xii. 
Aberdeem 84*2 



Tomnavoulin bridge, xiii. Banff, 139 

Tomphin, ironstone at, viii. Stirling, 144 

Tomrawer limeworks, viii Stirling, 142 

Tomtain hill, viii. Stirling, 140 

Ton bum, xii. Aberdeen, 818 

Tonderghie, copper ore at, iv. Wigton, 54 

Tonerghee, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 

Tong, aird of, xiv. Ross, 117 — isle, 159 — 
sands, 117— water, 120 

Tongland, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 
63 — abbey, ruins of, 88 

Tongue, parish of, xv. Sutherland, 164— 
house, ib. 173, 177— Kyle, 164, 166, 
168— point, 166— village, 171, 180 

Tookquay bay, xv. Orkney, 115 — loch, 
118 

Topran well, xiii Elgin, 62 

Tor bum, vi. Lanark, 883 

Tor bum, vii Renfrew, 386, 537 

Tor hill, ii Linlithgow, 110 

Tor liim, ruins of tower at, iv. Dumfries, 
69 

Tor ness, xv. Orkney, 157 

Tor of Bighouse, xv. Sutherland, 215 

Tor of Logierait, x. Perth, 690 

Tor of Troup, plantations of, xiii. Banff^ 
281 

Tor a'Bhean hill, xiv. Inverness, 8, ] 4 

Tor Alvie, hill and monument on, xiv. 
Inverness, 88 . 

Tor a Chaistel, ruins of, v. Bute, 52 

Torbeck hill, iv. Dumfries, 1 it5 

Torbol hill, v. Avr, 747 

Torboll hills, xv* Sutherland, 2 

Torbolton, parish of, v. Ayr, 741— -loch, 
743, 766— village, 741, 758 

Torbrax, spring at, viii. Dunbarton, 1 72 

Torcastle of Dallas, ruins of, xiii Elgin, 
198 

Torcorse hill, v. Ayr, 743, 746 

Tordarroch, massacre at, xiv. Inverness, 
516 — Druidical remains at, 519 

Tordoff point, iv. Dumfries, 262 

Tore bum, xiii Banff; 275 

Tore of Troup, the, xiii. Banff, 281 

Torfoot, Roman coins found at, vi La- 
nark, 303 

Torgarrow bum, xiii Nairn, 27 

Torhead, skirmish at, iv. Dumfries, 70 

Torhouse, standing stones of, iv. Wigton, 2 

Tork hill, xiv. Inverness, 519 

Torkie hill, x. Perth, 559 

Torloisk house, vii Argyle, 342 

Torlum hill, x. Perth, 312, 317, 491, 725 

Tormor, falls of, x. Perth, 541 

Tormore, Druidical remains at, v. Bute» 
52— rocks at, 44 

Tomagrain, spring at, xiv. Invemcss, 380 

Tomanshiain, remains on, v. Bute, 23 

Tornidneoin hill, v. Bute, 8 

Tomneben hill, xv. Sutherland, 119 

Torosay, parish of, vii Argyle, 277 

Torphichen, parish of, ii. Linlithgow, 34 
— village, 52— preceptory, 47, i Edin- 
burgh, 364 



cxlii 



GENEBAL INDEX. 



Torquhan house, i. Edinbuigh, 417 
Torquirs cave, xv. Sntherland, 25 
Ton- of Logierait, x. Perth, 690 
Torra water, xiv. Roes, 143 
Torran, limestone at, xiv. Inverness, 302 
Torrance, suppressed parish of, vi. La- 
nark, 887— house, 419, 887, 892— kirk, 
887 
Torrance, village of, viii. Stirling, 258, 259 
Torranrigh hill, v. Bute, 20 
Torrich, improvements at, xiii. Nairn, 4 
Torridon, district of, xiv. Ross, 99— loch, 

90— river, 100 
Torrie bum, ix. Fife, 728— collieries, Uf, 

— house, ib. 733— -village, 733 
Torrie, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 73 
Torrisdale bay, xv. Sutherland, 168 — vra- 

ter, 170, 215, vii. Aigyle, 438 
Torrs, Druidical circles at, iv. Kirkcud- 
bright, 153— cove, 156— lake, 31 
Torrs, plantations at, vii. Renfrew, 362 
Torry hill, xi. Kincardine, 196 — pier, 199 
— village, 1 96, 208 — improvements at, 
205 
Torrj'bum, parish of, ix. Fife, 727 — vil- 
lage, 732, 733 
Torsay isle, vii. Argyle, 71 
Torse, property of, xv. Caithness, 88, 99 

—castle, ruins of, 91 
Torsonce castle, ruins of, i. Edinburgh, 

418— inn, 429 
Torthorwald, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 29 

— castle, ruins of, ib. — village, i6. 32 
Torwood house, x. Perth, 1008 
Torwood castle, viii. Stirling, 381 — head, 
remains at, 362 — house, ruins of, ih. — 
oak, 381— Roman road at, 322— vil- 
lage, 385 
Torwoodlee, property of, i. Edinburgh, 
407 — castle and house, 417,41 8 — wood 
at, iii. Roxburgh, 65 
Toscarton, annexed parish of, iv. Wigton, 

IGJ 
Totagan nan Druidean, cairns at, xiv. In- 
verness, 267 
Tothorl castle, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 484 
Touch bum, viii. Stirling, 307 — planta- 
tions, 314 
Touchadam, improvements at, viii. Stir- 
ling, 328 
Toucks liill, xi. Kincardine, 213 
Tough, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 611 
Tour burn, ix. Fife, 829 
Tourie Lum, distiiet of, xiv. Ross, 382 
Tours, old mines at, vi. Lanark, 851 
Toward castle, ruins of, vii. Argjle, 600— 

point and lighthouse, 574 
Towe hill, viii. Dunlxirton, 142 
Tower bum, ix. Fife, 829 
Tower castle, ruins of, vii. Renfrew, 96 
Tower dean, ii. Berwick, 291, 295, 301 — 

bum, 2.03 
Tower collieries, vi. Lanark, 368 
Tower hill, ix. Fife, R*2?^ 
Tower hill, x. Pertb, \^% 



Tower inn of Hawick, iii. Roxburgh, 393 
Tower Lindsay, ruins of, vi Lanaric, 331 
Tower of Alloa, ruins o^ viiL Clackman- 
nan, 2 
Tower of Halbar colliery, vL Lanark, 668 
Tower of Repentance, ruins o^ ir. Dam- . 

fries, 250 
Towers at Banff, ruins called, xiii. Banff, 

28 
Towie bum, xii Aberdeen, 416 — castle, 
ruins of, 4 1 7— parish o^450 — property, 
991 
Towie Barclay castle, ruins of, xii. Abei^ 

deen, 287— house, 995 
Townend house, Symington, v. Ayr, 567 
Townend of Threepwood, remains at, v. 

Ayr, 578 
Townhall, Ayr, v. A}t, 23 
Townhall, Greenock, vii. Renfrew, 425 
Townhall, Inverness, xiv. InvemesB, 16 
Townhall, Leith, i. Edinburgh, 766 
Townhall, Perth, x. Perth, 82 
Townhall, Wick, xv. Caithness, 142 
Townhead, Arbuthnott, remains found at. 

xi. Kincardine, 161 
Townhead quarry, Ayr, v. Ayr, 40 
Townhead of Banchory, village of, xL 

Kincardine, 355 
Townhead of Kilsyth house, viii. Stirling, 

146— loch, ih. — paper mill, 160 
Townhead of Penpont, village of^ iv. Dum- 
fries, 508 
Townhill colliery, ix. Fife, 834, 837— vil- 
lage, 874 
Townhouse, Banff, xiii. Banff, 34 
Townhouse, Beith, v. Ayr, 601 
Townhouse, Dunse, ii. Berwick, 255 
Townhouse, Forres, xiii. Elgin, 1 64 
Townloch, Dunfennline, ix. Fife, 829 
Town Manor tower, ruins of, iiu Peebles, 

116 
Town Yetholm, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 

159, 160, 165, 173 
Trabrown, brewery at, ii. Haddington, 186 
Tradeston, see Glasgow and Go van 
Trailflat, annexed parish of, iv. Dumfries, 

39 
Trail trow, suppressed parish of, iv. Dum- 
fries, 244 
Tram, brig o\ xv. Caithness, 119 
Tranent, parish oi\ ii. Haddington, 282 — 
battle of, 293— collieries, 288— town, 
282, 289, 299 
Traprain law, ii. Haddington, 18, 19, 358 
Traquair forest, i. Edinburgh, 409 
Traquair, parish of,iii. Peebles, 36 — house, 

40, 44 — Know, remains found at, 41 
Treame limeworks, v. Ayr, 573 
Trees, camp at, v. Ayr, 365 
Tree8i>ank house, v. Ayr, 610 
Trcfad, cliffs at, xv. Caithness, 87 
Trefor hill, xii. Aberdeen, 294 
Treig water and loch, xiv. Invemess, 505 
Tt««%v\l, caves at, xv, Sutherland, 85 



GENERAL INDEX. 



cxliii 



Tress ness, xv. Orkney, 133— ruins of cha- 
pel, &c at, 136, 141 
Tresta voe, xv. Shetland, 23, 32, 101 
Trevie loch, xiii Elgin, 1 96 
Trealivall loch, xiv. Ross, 159 
Tribboch tower, ruins of, v. Ayr, 642 
Trinity chain pier, i. Edinburgh, 781— 
chapel, 667 — hospital, 721 —college 
church, 662— house, 763 
Trinity church of St Andrews, ix. Fife, 

470 
Trinity Gask, parish of, x. Perth, 335 
Trinity monastery, Dunbar, iL Hadding- 
ton, 79 
Trinity muir fair, xi Forfar, 141 
Trinity temple, ruins o£^ xiv. Invemess, 

169 
Trinity well, i. Edinburgh, 538 
Trinity well, x. Perth, 335 
Trochaim limeworks, v. Ayr, 504 
Trochery castle, ruins of; x. Perth, 1005 
Trochrigg house, v. Ayr, 396 
Trodda isle, xiv. Inverness, 240 
Trohaughton, Roman camp at, iv. Dum- 
fries, 12 
Tromie water, xiv. Inverness, 65 
Tron church, &.c. i. Edinburgh, 663 
Tronach castle, ruins of, xiii. Banff, 254 
Tronda voe, cave at, xv. Shetland, 57 
Trondra isle, xv. Shetland, 9 
Trool loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 119 
Troon point, v. Ayr, 669 — town and hai> 
hour, 683, 684— (^uoocf Mcra parish o^ 
685 
Troqueer, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

233 
Troqueerholm house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

226 
Trosachs, the, x. Perth, 350 
Trotemish, barony of, xiv. Inverness, 241, 

257 
Trouchment, village of, xi. Forfar, 218 
Troughewan, property of^ v. Bute, 74 
Troup bum, xiiL Banff, 275— head, 145, 
271 — hill, 274 — house and plantations, 
281,285— den, 273 
Troustrie, quarry at, ix. Fife, 946 
Trow craigs, the, iii. Roxburgh, 129 
Truderscaig loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 
Truim water, xiv. Inverness, 65 
Tnimpan, massacre at, xiv. Inverness, 329 
Trustach forest, xi. Kincardine, 336 — 

house, 328 — property, 325 
Tryal cairn, iv. Dumfries, 445 
Trysting stones of Morebattle, iii. Rox- 
burgh, 451 
Trysting tree of Kelso, iii. Roxburgh, 305 
Trysting tree of Roxburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 

129 
Tuacks, tumuli called, xv. Orkney, 126 
Tubemach, loch, xv. Sutherland, 151 
Tudhope hill, iii. Roxburgh, 441 — mine- 
ral well at, 2 
Tuimpan head, xiv. Ross, 115, 118 
Tuirck loch, x. Perth, 786 



Tuiteam Tarbhach, battle of, xiv. Ross, 

405 
Tullach, sheep ferm of, xiv. Invemess, 

504 
Tulliallan, parish of, x. Perth, 867 — 

castle, ruins of, 868 — modem castle 

of, ib, 
Tullibardine muir, x. Perth, 298— chapel, 

ruins of; 299 
Tullibody house, viii. Clackmannan, 19, 

43^plantations, 18 — village, 44, 54 
Tullibole, annexed parish of, x. Perth, 

1017 
Tullich cattle, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 

1059— suppressed parish of, 772 — vil- 
lage, 779, 781 
Tullich bum, xiiL Banff, 104 
TuJlimoss, battle of, x. Perth, 1 101 
Tullins hill, camp on, ii. Berwick, 5 
Tulloch loch, xiii. Elgin, 240 — property, 

120 
Tulloch, cairn at, xi. Kincardine, 37 
Tulloch bleachfield, x. Perth, 94, 190— 

village, 86, 97 
Tulloch castle, xiv. Ross, 212, 366— hill, 

212— property, 320 
Tullochard hill, xiv. Ross, 171 
Tullochgriban loch, xiii. Elgin, 125 
Tullochvenus, remains found at, xii. Aber- 
deen, 613 
TuJlos hill, xi. Kincardine, 197 — pro- 
perty, 205, Forfer, 143 
Tullybeagles, district of, x. Perth, 424— 

slate quarries, 428 
TuUybelton hill, x. Perth, 424, 426— 

house, 434 
Tullydivie, school at, xiii. Elgin, 193 
Tullynessle and Forbes, united parishes 

of, xii. Aberdeen, 439 
Tulm fort, ruins of, xiv. Invemess, 266— 

isle, 240 
Tummel loch, x. Perth, 560, 757 — river, 

546, 560, 639, 640, 686, 757, 758 
Tundergarth, pariah of, iv. Dumfries, 195 
Turf dike coal pit, v. Ayr, 432, 437, 44S 
Turin hill, xl Forfar, 597, 598, 627— 

house, 627— quarries, 540, 598, 600— 

remains at, 606 
Turing^ tower, ruins o^ xii. Aberdeen, 

699 
Turleum hill,x. Perth, 312,317,491, 725 
Tumagain hill, x. Perth, 174 
Tumberry castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 782— 

head, 394 
Turner hall, xii Aberdeen, 906 
Tumlaw cairns, ii. Berwick, 73, 101 
Tumlaw hill, vi Lanark, 417 
Turahouse hill, I Edinburgh, 310, 312— 

camp at, 317 
Turawheel, meeting of Calder and Clyde 

at, vi. Lanark, 419 
Turret loch, x. Perth, 726— water, 491, 

726, 727, xi Forfar, 1 92 
Turrifl^ parish of; xiu A.\«st^<ft«cv^ ^"^V-^ 



cxliv 



OSNBBAL tKBSX* 



tural aflsociation, 10I2— «kinnish at, 

989 
Turry chapel, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 958 
Tushielaw tower, ruins of, iii. Selkirk, 61, 

67 
Tutop hill, iii Roxburgh, 426, 427 
Twa brigs of Ayr, the, v. Ayr, 7 
Twalt church, xv. Shetland, 114 
Twatt, burial ground at, xv. Shetland, 

110 
Tweed river, ii. Berwick, 50, 52, 150, 159, 

200, 365, iii. Peebles, 1, 2, 24, 37, 58, 

71, 78, 122, 176, lloxbuigh, 51, 53, 

105, 128, 301, 419, 460, Selkirk, 1, 2, 

11, 12, 14, 79, vi. Lanark, 52 
Tweeddale, iii Peebles, 175, Roxburgh, 

460 
Tweeden, petrifying spring at, iii. Rox- 

buigh, 442— water, 441, 442 
Tweedhill house, ii. Berwick, 154 
Tweedhope bum, iii. Peebles, 59 
Tweedhopefoot, farm t:tf; iii. Peebles, 66 
Tweedmill, fossil remains at, iL Berwick, 

203 
Tweedseross, Druidical remains at, iii. 

Peebles, 62 
Tweedahaws, rise of Tweed at, iii. Peebles, 

58 
Tweedside, iii. Selkirk, 79 
Tweedsmuir, parish of, iii. Peebles, 56 
Tweedswell, iii Peebles, 122 
Twiglccs, stones at, iv. Dumfries, 400 
Twingas head, xv. Orkney, 104 
Two mile bum, vi. Lanark, 848 
Twynholm, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

37 — village, 44 
Tyncaim quarry, xiv. Inverness, 84 
Tyne water, i Edinburgh, 56, 191, 192, 

ii Haddington, 2, 19, 30, 71. 107, 131, 

173, 174,193,272,345,359 
Tyne river, iii. Roxburgh, 441 
Tyneaide games, ii Haddington, 15 
Tynet burn, xiii Banff, 250 — property of, 

Elgin, 120 
Tynninghame, suppressed parish and Til- 
lage of, ii Haddington, 29— bay, 30— 

house, 30, 31 — woods, 35, 36 
Tynron, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 473 
Tvrebagger hill and quarries, xii. Aber- 

'deen, 121 
Tyrie, paririi of, xii. Aberdeen, 717 
Tyrie, mins of chapel at, ix. Fife, 810 
Tyroni castle, vii Argyle, 122, 147 
Uaglamaich cave, vii Argjlc, 535 
Uaigh-an-dlinebhee, tradition regarding, 

xiv. Inverness, 99 
Uaigh mhic Ghil Andrei's cave, xv. Su- 
therland, 25 
Uaigh Thorcuil cave, xv. Sutherland, 25 
Uaish, Ben, xiv. Ross, 244 
Uamh loch, vii. Argj'le, 122 
Uamh a Choinnleir cave, xiv. Inverness, 

325 
Uamh an oir cave, xiv. Inverness, 240, 
248 



Uamhmor cave, x. Perth, 549 — mount, 

ib. 1225 
Uaric, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 138, 189 
Udale, property of, xiv. Ross, 1 3 
Uddingston, village of, vi Liuiark, 766, 

767, 793, 797— plough, 796 
Udny, parish o^ xii Aberdeen, 131 — 

castle, 132 
Udstown, farm of, vi. Lanark, 269 
Ugie water, xii Aberdeen, 141, 187, 345, 

347, 860 
Ui, district of, xiv. Ross, 115 — isthmus, 

117 
Uidhay isle, xiv. Inverness, 200 
Uig, parish of, xiv. Roes, 151 — bay, ib, 
UiSS S^leUf xiv* Inverness, 286 — bay, ih. 
Uievay bay, xiv. Inverness, 200 
Uisgava loch, xiv. InTemess, 1 95 
Uist, sound of^ xiv. InvemesB, 155 — 
North, island and parish of, 159 — 
South, island and pansh of, 182 
Ulay, Ben, xiv. Ross, 171 
Ulbster chapel, xv. Caithnen, 150— >head, 

119_hoi^ 124, 142 
Ullapool, village o^ xv. Shetland, 108, 

xiv. Ross, 73, 86— water, 74 
Ullhouse, XV. Shetland, 57 
Ulston, village of, iii Roxbnigh, 18 
Ulva isle, vii Aigyle, 340, 345— house, 
S49—quo<td §acra parish of 845 — 
sound, ib. 347 
Ulysses haven, village of, xi. For&r, 255 
Underbank house, ruins of, v. Ayr, 249, 

253 
Undercraig hill, vii Renfrew, *502 
Underwood house, v. A3T, 765 
Unes water, xv. Sutherland, 215 
Unick water, xi. Forfar, 192 
Unicom rock, xv. Shetland, 1 
Unimore, valley of, rii Argyle, 168 
Unsi, parish and island of, xv. Shetland, 

36 
Unthank, chapel at, iv. Dumfries, 440 
Unthank bum, vi Lanark, 303 
Uphall, parish of, ii Linlithgow, 85— -vil- 
lage, 87 
Upla moor quarry, vii Renfrew, 320 — 

village, 330 
Uppat property and house, xv. Suther- 
land, 154 
Upper Banchory, district of, xi Kincar- 
dine, 324 
Upper Banton, forge at, viii. Stirling, 160 
Upper Coll water, xiv. Ross, 1 20 
Upper Crailing, suppressed pariidi of, iii. 

Roxburgh, 177 
Upper Drumin distillery, xiii Banff, 188 
Upper Machar, see New Maehar 
Upper Nisbet village, iii. Roxburgh, 183 
Upper Tulloch, caim at, xi. Kincardine^ 

37 
Upsetlington, ancient piyrish of, ii Ber- 
wick, 180— village, 183 
Urafirth voe, xv. Shetland, 7 1 
Urates, limestone at, vi. Liuiark, 82 



QSKERAL INDSZ« 



cxlv 



Urchany hill, xiii Nairn, I — ^plantations, 

3 
Urchay water, vii Argyle, 82, 84, 89 
Ure glen, vii Aigyle, 473— water, 479 
Ure loch, xiv. Ross, 117 
Urie bay and pier, zr. Shetland, 23, 32 

— ruins of chapel at, 25 
Urigill loch, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Urquhart, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 44 — 

jiriory, 46 
Urquhart quarry, ix. Fife, 841 
Urquhart bay, xiv. Inverness, 44 — castle, 

ruins bf, 43-— glen, 37 
Urquhart and Glenmonston, united pa- 
rishes of^ xiv. Inverness,' 36 
Urquhart and Logie, Wester, united pa- 
rishes of, xiv. Ross, 363 
Urr loch, iv. Dumfries, 330 
Urr, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbri^t, 247 — 
loch, 193-.river, 191,193,210,211, 
257, 282, 347 
Urrard cascade, x. Perth, 640 
Urray, parish of, xiv, Ross. 399 
Urwell, see OrweU 
Ury water, xii. Aberdeen, 561, 598, 599, 

635, 656, 728, 749 
Ury hill and loch, v. Bute, 7 
Ury house, xL Kincardine, 244, 246, 252 
—mineral spring, 245— -propeity, 251 
improvements at, 253 
Usan, rocks at, xi. Forfiu', 249— -house, 

252— village, 252, 255 
Use bay, xv. Orkney, 1 1 5 
Uahinish mount, xiv. Ross, 158»point, 

183 
Usne loch, xiv. Ross, 246 
-Uyea island, xv. Shetland, 38, 48, 71— 
obelisk, 39— burial ground, 42— sound, 
36 
Vaichard, Ben, xiv. Ross, 263 
Vaila isle, xv. Shetland, 19 — sound, ib. 
Valence tower, vi. Lanark, 788 
Vallay island and harbour, xiv. Inverness, 

161, 163 
Valleyfield paper mflla, L Edinburgh, 34, 

44 
Valleyfield house and village, x. Perth, 

601 
Valleyfield hill, xv. Shetland, 36 
Vallich, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 135 
Valtoe, school at, xiv. Ross, 153, 155 
Vanduaria, Roman town of^ vii. Renfrew, 

136 
Vane castle, ruins of; xi. For&r, 314 
Vannich water, xii Aberdeen, 530 
Varrich, promontory of, xv. Sutherland, 

166— ^asUe, ruins of, 175 
Vasa isle, xv. Orkney, 81 
Vat, cave called the, xii Aberdeen, 775 
Vaten, Erd house at, xiv. Inverness, 836 
Vaternish point, xiv. Inverness, 241— 

quoad taera parish of, 328 
Vaterstein point, xiv. Invemeas, 324, 327 
Vatietter nhnon fisheries, xv. Shetland, 
86 

VOL. XV. 



Vault glen, trees at, viii Dunbarton, 137 

—house, 143 
Vaults of Queensferry, the, ii. Linlith- 
gow, 6 
Ve, ness of, xv. Orkney, 157 
Veal loch, xv. Sutherland, 217 
Veallich, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 189 
Vementry isle, xv. Shetland, 101, 102 
Venachoir loch, x. Perth, 350 
Vencheon, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 163 
Venturefair colliery, ix. Fife, 163 
Venue, Ben, x. Perth, 1150 
Veoil loch, x. Perth, 345, 350 
Vertur well, the, ii. Berwick, 267 
Vestrafiold hill, xv. Orkney, 42 
Veyatie loch, xv. Sutherland, 213, 217 
Via, stones of, xv. Orkney, 53 
Vicarland, village of, vi Lanark, 431 
Vicar^B acres, the, i Edinburgh, 8 
Vicar^s bridge, viii Clackmannan, 80 
Vicar's bridge, x. Perth, 394, 398 
Vicar's well, i. Edinburgh, 283 
Viewfield house, xiii. Nairn, 2 
Vinney water, xi Forfar, 142, 146, 384 
Vogrie house, i Edinburgh, 173, 178 
Vord hill, xv. Shetland, 37 
Vorlich, Ben, viii Dunbarton, 94, 96^ x. 

Perth, 578 
Voy, cairn at, xv. Orkney, 55 
Vrackie, Ben, x. Perth, 638 
Vrae hill, xii. Aberdeen, 982 
Vraick hill, viii Stirling, 100 
Vrogie cascade, vii Aigyle, 480 
Vui, Ben, xiv. Inverness, 145 
Wackenwae well, vi Lsunark, 255 
Wairows loch, xv. Caithness, 124 
Walesley, Roman road at, vi. Lanark, 

303 
Walkinshaw house, vii Renfrew, 19 
WallacelB barrel, cave called, vi Lanark, 

788 
Wallace's castle, xiii Banfi^ 284 
Wallace's cave, Hawthomden, i Edin- 
burgh, 332 
Wallace's cave, Lesmahagow, vi Lanark, 

30 
Wallace's cave, Torphichen, ii Linlith- 
gow, 35 
Wallace's chair, Bonington, vi. Lanark, 

16 
Wallace's house, Paisley, vii Renfrew, 

195,196 
Wallace's larder, Ardrossan, v. Ayr, 197 
Wallace's leap, rock called, viii. Dunbar- 
ton, 116 
Wallace^ knowe, Lochwinnoch, vii. Ren- 
frew, 87 
Wallace's oak. Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 195, 

196 
Wallace's oak, Torwood, viii Stirling, 

381 
Wallace's seat, Biggar, vi Lanark, 359 
Wallace's seat, Kilbarchan, vii Renfrew, 

368 
Wallace's statue, Merton, ii Berwick^ 27 

t 



cxlvi 



OBVt&AL DTDBX. 



WalLice*« stone, PoLmaot, Tiii Stzrling, 

195 
Wallace tower, Anchtcfhouae, xi. Forfar, 

650 
Wallace tower, Ajr, r. Art, 18, W 
Wallace tower, Roxburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 

131 
Wallace^ tower, Kirkmichari, ir. Dom- 

frie^69 
Wallace's tree, Blairt, TiiL Stirling, 548 
Wallace'k trench, x. PerU^ 1263 
Wallace's well, Biggar, ri Lanark, 359 
Wallace^s yew, FaitleT, tiL Renfrew, 196 
Wallacetonn, quoad taera paiitfa, &c. o^ 
Y. Arr, 18, 86, 123 — rocking ftone at, 
326' 
Wallan^B castle, rains ol^ ri. Lanark, 682 
Wallhoose house, ii. Linlithgow, 51 
Wallifbrd, Tillage of; i. Edinborgh, 294 
Walls, parish o^ xy. Shetland, 19 
Walls house, xr. Orkney, 75'isle, 70 
Walls and Flotta, united parishes o( xr. 

Orknev, 70 
Wallsend colUery, ix. Tiii^ 831 
Wallston, parish oi, ri. Lanark, 846 — 
hill, 49, 847— village, 846, 849, 860, 
862 
Walton hill, ix. Fife, 558— Roman re- 
mains at, 565— Tillage of^ 574 
Walton, termination of Roman wall at, 

ii Linlithgow, 65 
Walton loch, vii. Renfrew, 316 
Waltrees, petrifying spring at, v. Ayr, 324 
Wamphray, parish o^ iT. Dumfries, 137 

— water and falls, ib. 140 
Wandell bower, ruins of; vi Lanark, 818 

— bum, 810— property, 814 
Wandell and Lamingtoune, united pa- 
rishes of, vL Lanark, 805 
Wandell mill, improTcments at, vi. La- 
nark, 833 
Wander's hill, the, xi. Forfar, 629 
Wangie hill, xiii. Elgin, 195, 198 
Wanlock water, iv. Dumfries, 300 
Wanlockhead lead mines, iv. Dumfries, 

299— village, 307, 310 
Wantin wells, remains found at, xiL 

Aberdeen, 751 
Wanzie, chasm called, viii. Stirling, 62 
War ness, xv. Orkney, 157 
Ward end of Carestoa, xi. Forfiar, 532 
Ward head, xii. Aberdeen, 754 
Ward hill of Breway, xv. Shetland, 7 
Ward hill of Canisbay, xv. Caithness, 22 
Ward hill of Hoy, xv. Orkney, 49, 206 
Ward of Crude'n, village of, xii. Aber- 
deen, 978, 979 
Ward, village of, x. Perth, 31 1 
Wardend, Druidical circle at, xiii. Banff, 

162 
Wardhousc house, xii. Aberdeen, 584 
Wardhouses of DuivnideeT, xiii. Banff, 162 
Wardie burn, i. F.dinbuTg)^, 5S<i, b^\ 
Wardlaw crwg, iii. ^Yk\T\L, ^ft— \\\\\ ^^ 
Wardlaw hill, iv. Dumfne^, hZ . 



Wardlaw, old parish oi; xiv. InT eru e ss , 

459 
Wardlawbank hill, u. Berwick, 279 — 

camp at, 284 
Wardmill bkochfiekk, &c xi Forftr, 

510, 511— liill, 496 
Wardropefton, tcodition Rgardiog, xi. 

KincsrdiAe, 282 
WardTkes, Roman camp at, xi Forfiu-, 

298' 
Ware water, ii Berwick, \9% 
Warklaw hill, camp on, i Edinbar^ 547 
Warmanbie house, ir. Dumfries, 226 
WarrickhiU hmise, t. Ayr, 525 
Wart hill of Orphir, xt. Orkney, 13 
Wart hiU of Rcawick, xr. Shetland, 111 
Wart hill of Shapinsha j, xr. Orkney, 80 
Warth hill, nnns on, xt. Caithnen, 25 
Warthill house, xii Aberdeen, 426 
Wasbister, standing stones at, xr.OrkneY 

54 
Watch hill of CanisbaT, mina on, xt. 

Caithness, 25 
Watching stone, the, xit. InTemes, 513 
Watchman's hill, InTemen, xit. InTcr- 

ness, 8, 13 
Watchman^ hill, Kirkmahoe, it. Dum- 
fries, 53 
Watchman^ knowe, the, iT. Domfiiet, 96 
Watchman^ town, the, xiT. InTemess, 13 
Water of Ayr stone, t. Ayr, 13, 638 
Water of Leith, Tillage of; i Edinbnigh, 

665 
Waterbeck, village of, iv. Dumfries, 368 
^Vate^e»k \-alley, xi. For&r, 435 
Waterfoot of Annan, harbour of, iv. Dum- 
fries, 518, 529 
Waterhaughs of Loudoun, the, t. Att, 

835 
Waterland, limestone at, v. Ajt, 291 
Waterloo oak, the, iv. Dumfries, 233 
Waterloo piUar, the, iii Roxbui^gh, 178 
Waterloo, village of; x. Perth, 442 
Watemish house, xiv. InTemeaa, 341 — 

qtioad tacra parish o^ 323 
Watersay bay, xiv. Inverness, 200-~isle, 

ib. 
Waterside of Newton bleachfield, vii. 

Renfrew, 315 
Waterstein point, xiv. Inverness, 324, 327 
Waterton house, xii Aberdeen, 238 
Watling street, the Roman road, vi. La- 
nark, 451, iii Roxburgh, 259, 459 
Watly loch, xv. Shetland, 36 
Watson^ hospital, Oeorge, i Edinburgh, 

723— John, 725 
Watston loch, x. Perth, 1226 
Watswick bay, xv. Shetland, 38 
Watt institution, Dundee, xi For&r, 46 
Watt institution, Qreenock, vii. Renfrew, 

424 
Watten, parish of, xv. Caithness, 49 — 

\wlV^^^VV9,l23 



OBMBRAL TNDEX. 



cxlvii 



420-i-«uppre88ed pariah of, 425— water, 
209,417 
Wauchopedale, mineral springs in, iv. 

Dumfries, 417 ' '^ 
Waugh hill, iv. Dumfries, 460 
Waukmill quarry, xii. Aberdeen, 729 
Waukmill, Village of, xi. Forfar, 347 
WawB loch, viL Renfrew, 82 
Waygateshaw, limestone at, vi. Lanark, 
570— property of, 578 — tower, ruins of, 
582 
Weather ness, xv. Orkney, 1 16 
Weatherholm isle, xv. Shetland, 38 
Weatherley, plantations at, ii Hadding- 
ton, 238 
Weaver's castle, the, xiv. Inverness, 188 
Wedale, district of, i. Edinburgh, 409 
Wedderbum castle, ii. Berwick, 255 
Wedderbum castle, ruins of, xi. For&r, 593 
Wedderhill, property of, xi. Kincardine, 

260 
Wedderlie house, ii. Berwick, 74— cha- 
pel, 71— marl pit, 66— village, 63 
WeddersUe hill, ix. Fife, 31 
Weem, parish of, x. Perth, 702^rock, 

704— village, 712 
Weems castle, ruins of, xi. For&r, 607 — 

hole, 177 
Weens, plantations at, iii. Roxburgh, 213 
Weensland mill, iii. Roxburgh, 425 
Weeping path, the, v. Ayr, 733 
Weesdale, annexed parish of, xv. Shet- 
land, 59— voe, 69 
Weir, &ctofy at, vii Renfrew, 51 
Weir isle, xv. Orkney, 83 
Well brae of St Boswells, iii. Roxburgh, 

105 
Well trees of Kirkbride, v. Ayr, 364 
Well trees spout, the, v, Ayr, 350 
Well of Spa, xii. Aberdeen, 12 
Well of Tarlain, xiii Banff, 274 
Wellbank quarry, xi. Forfar, 540 
Well hall. Dollar, viii. Clackmannan, 76 
WelJhouse, minei^ spring at, ii Linlith- 
gow, 36 
Wellington bridge, xi. Kincardine, 210 
Wellington statue, the, i. Edinburgh, 656 
Wellmeadow bleach Held, vii. Renfrew, 523 
Wells of Dee, the, xiii. Elgm, 137 
Wells, heronry ai, ilL Roxburgh 282 — 

trees at, 213— house, 429 
Wellsbumspout, fall of, iv. Dumfries, 398 
Wellshot colliery, vi. Lanark, 422 
Wellahot spring, viii. Stirling, 147 
Wellwood collieries, ix, Fife, 833, 835— 

village, 874 
Wemyss, parish of, ix. Fife, 390— castle, 

391, 393— hall, 7— villages, 398, 400 
Wemyss castle, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 607 — 

quafry, 598^ 599, 600 
Wemyss bay, vii. Renfrew, 526 
West Adniston house, ii. Haddington, 184 
Weit Arthurlie, village of, vii. Renfrew, 

330 
West Balrrmontb hiU, ix. Fife, 450 



Westbank, property of, ii. Haddington, 

181— quarry, 177 
Westbams, military station at, ii. Had- 
dington, 75 — village, 88 
Westbams house, ix. Fife, 977 
West barony of Kilsyth, viii. Stirling, 141 
West battery pier, Queensferry, ii. Lin- 
lithgow, 11 
West bridge, village o^ tx. Fife, 811— 

quoad sacra parish of, 815 
West Burrafirth, xv. Shetland, 101— 

school at, 136 
West Calder, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 304 

—village, 307, 308 
West Canisbay house, xv. Caithness, 26 
West church, &c. Edinburgh, i. Edin- 
burgh, 666 
West Coaltown, village of, ix. Fife, 398,' 

400 
West Coats village, vi. Lanark, 431 
West Conval hill, xiu. Banff, 1 1 1 
West Craigs hill, i. Edinburgh, 206 
West Culbo, property of, xiv. Ross, 48 
West Enoch, retrains at, v. Ayr, 360 
West Faldshope, wood at, iii. Selkirk, 42 
West Fenton, basaltic columns at, ii Had- 
dington, 205 
West ferry, vii. Renfrew, *501, •521— hill, 

*504 
West field, village of, viii Clackmannan, 

132 
Westfield, improvements at, xiii Elgin, 

98 
Westfield house, ix, Fife, 8 
Westfield, remains found at, xi. Forfiu*, 

399 
Westfield, village of, vii Renfrew, 506^ 
West Forton, property of, ii. Hadding- 
ton, 45 
West Gordon, village o^ ii. Berwick, 34, 

36 
Westgreen, remains found at, ix. Kin- 
ross, 11 
Westhall hotne, xii. Aberdeen, 638— 

plantations o^ 636 
Westhall hills, ruins of forts at, vi La- 
nark, 69 
Westhaven, village o^ xi Forfar, 70, 71 
Westhead of Portsoy, xiii Banff, 179 
Westhill tower, ruins of^iv. Dumfries, 266 
WesthiU of Alva, viii StirUng, 177, 182, 

187 
West Inch of Grangemouth, viii, Stir- 
ling, 26 
West isle of Burra, xv. Shetland, 9— 

sound, 10 
West Kilbride, parish of, v. Ajrr, 243 
West Kilpatrick, parish of, viii. Dunbar- 

ton, 15 
West loch, xiv. Inverness, 162 
West Lomond hill, ix. Fife, 775 
West Lothian, see Linlithgow 
Westmains, Roman tevcuaisA laX^ n\. \jga^- 



cxlviii 



OSM BBAL nrDEZ. 



WcstmiU, Tillage of, i Edinbtus^ 609 
Westmoin, dii^ct cl, xr. Suthaiaiid, 

83 
West Monkland, paruh of^ vi Lanark, 

635 — collieries, 642— ironworks, 646 
West Morham, plantations at, iL Had- 
dington, 267 
Westmuir colliery, ri. Lanark, 422 
West Muirhouse, property o^ TiL Ren- 
frew, 395 
Weston colliery, â–¼, Ajr, 745 
Weston, Tillage of, Ti. Lanark, 72 
Westown, improTements of^ Ti I^nark, 

543 
Westown, ruins of church at, x. Perth, 

386— village, 395 
West Paiston, village of^ ii Haddington, 

142 
Westpans, tillage of, i. Edinburgh, 294 
West Plean house, viii. Stirling, 312 
West Port of Arbroath, xi Forfifur, 512 
West Port of Falkknd, ix. Fife, 937 
Westquarter house, vL Lanark, 296 — 

village, 299 
Westraw house, vi. Lanark, 522, 523, 

536, 539— hill, 536 
Westray, parish of, xv. Orkney, 114 — 

frith, 116 
Westruther, parish of, ii Berwick, 63— 

Tillage, 83 
West Salton, village of, ii. Haddington, 

116,121 
Westshiel collieries, vi. Lanark, 77 
Westwde, ironstone at, viii Stirling, 1 44 
West SkeJd, burial ground at, xv, Shet- 
land, 1 1 — remains at, ih. 1 1 1 
West Tarbet bay, iv. W igton, 201 
West Third, remains found at, iii Peebles, 

158 
West Third, village of; ul Roxburgh, 142 
Westwater, lead ore at, iv. Dumfries, 417 
West water, xi. Forfar, 663, 664, 688 
West water, vi. l^nark, 66 
West Waterland, limestone at, v. Avr, 

291 
West WemyBs, village and harbour of, ix. 
Fife, 398, 400— ruins of church at, 393 
Wester Aberfeldv, village of, x. Perth, 

697 
Wester Anstnither, parish of, ix. Fife, 611 

—town, 620, 623, 629 
Wester Bogie house, ix. Fife, 1 54 
^V'' ester Braky, property of, xi. Forfar, 395 

—castle, 398 
Wester bum, i. Edinburgh, 358, 545 
Westerdale house, xv. Caithness, 70 
Wester Deskie, farm of, xiii. Banff, 1 37 
Wester Duddingstone, village of, i. Edin- 
burgh, 388, 390, 393 
Wester Elchies house, xiii Elgin, 61, 69 

— property, 64 — trees at, 67 
Wester Eskadale, chapel at, xiv. Inver- 
ness, 370 
Wester Eskdale, village of, xiv. Inverness, 
487 



Welter Feam, plaa^Uioiis at, xit. Kom, 

439 
Wester Fowlia, property of, xii Aberdeen, 

UIO 
Wester Fowfia, parish o^ x. Perth, 249 
Wester Oallaton, village oi; ix. Fife, 139 
Wester Gate, Tillage o^ ii Haddington, 

334 
Wester Geaoies, improTement ol^ st. 

Roes, 464 
Wester Greenock caatle, Tii Renfrew, 

405 
Westethall house, iv. Dumfriea, 430— 

castle, ruins of^ 433 — trees at, 4S0 
Westerhouse limeworks, Ti Lanark, 569 
Wester Karnes castle, ruina o^ t. Bate, 

104 
Westerker, Tillage of. It. Dumfiiea, 429 — 

Druidical temple at, 432 
Wester Kesaock, improTements at, xir. 

Ross, 60 
Wester Kilmuir and Soddy, united pa- 
rishes of, xiT. Ross, 57 
Westerkirk, parish o^ it. Damfriea, 429 
Wester Lenzie, ancient parish o^ Tiii 

Dunbarton, 144 
Wester loch and water, xt. Caithnen, 1 23 
Wester Logic, annexed parish of, xiT. 

Ross, 363 
Wester Lovat, improvements at, xit. In- 

Temeas, 460 — ^harbour, 461 
Wester Lumloch, property o^ Ti La> 

nark, 400 
Wester Markhouse, xi. For&r, 200 
Wester Mo^s, iii. Roxburgh, 222 
Wester Mosshat, coal at, vi. Lanark, 8 1 
Wester Ogle house, xi. Forfar, 200 
Wester Pencaitland, village and cross o^ 

ii Haddington, 350 
Wester Rarichie, spring at, xiv. Rosa, 21 
Wester Ross fkmiers^ association, xiv. 

Ross, 288 
Wetiter Rossland, remains found at, Tii 

Renfrew, "olS 
Westerside, cairns at, xiii Banff, 254 
Westerton house, xiii Elgin, 10 — plan- 
tations at, 3 
Westerton of Kinglands quarry, x. Perth, 

428— tumulus, 434 
Wester Watten, improvements at, xv. 

Caithness, 55 
Westerwood, ironstone pits, &c. at, viii 
Dunbarton, 136, 180 — Roman fort at, 
152 
Whalefirth voe, xv. Shetland, 83 
VV'halsay isle, xv. Shetland, 53 — church, 

55— house and sound, 54 
Whapple bay, iv. Wigton, 23 
Wharral loch, xi. Foriar, 436 
Whauk bum, xi Forfar, 393 
Wheatrig, propertv of, ii. Haddington, 

181 
Whifflet collieries, &c. vi. Lanark, 645, 

648 
Whig hole, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 371 



OXNEBAL USfBBX. 



cxlix 



Whim, loch at, lii. Peebles, 136 

Whinny hUl, ix. Fife, 696 

Whinnyeon loch, iv. Kirkcudbright 39, 

292 
Whinnyfbld, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 979 
WhinnyhaJl quarry, ix. Fife, 406 
Whinnyligget, Roman camp at, iv. Kirk- 
cudbright, 20 
Whinnyrigg hill, ir. Dumfries, 206 
Whirly Kip, cairn, &c. at, ix. Fife, 601 
Whisgills, cairn at, iii Roxburgh, 444 
Whistieberry castle, ruins of, xL Kincar- 
dine, 314---Iimestone at, 310 
Whitadder water, ii. Berwick, 94, 99, 100, 
106, 113, 115, 124, 150, 248,261,267, 
338, 366, Haddington, 55 
Whitberry point, ii. Haddington, 31 
Whitbuigh house, ii. Haddington, 102— 

property, 101 — Roman camp at, 275 
Whitburn, parish of, ii. Linlithgow, 66 
White bog, drainage of, x. Perth, 721 
White cairn of Camannock, ?. Ayr, 816 
White cairn of Dairy, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

370 
White castle, the, xiv. Inverness, 152 
White cave of Slains, xii. Aberdeen, 589 
White cove of Rerrick, iv. Kirkcudbright, 

356 
White hills, the, xiii. Banff, 5, 223 
White loch, Blairgowrie, x. Perth, 903 
White loch, Camwath, vi. Lanark, 77, 

945 
White loch, Meams, v. Ayr, 728, vii. 

Renfrew, 516 
White sheets of Sidlaw hiUs, xi For&r, 

648 
"^^liite water, see Whitadder 
White water of Clova, xL Forfar, 436 
Whitebum, marl at, ii. Berwick, 66 
Whitecamp, Roman camp at, vL Lanark, 

331 
White Cart river, vi. Lanark, 598, 879, 
880, vii. Renfrew, 2, 34, 47, 115, 145, 
383, 385, 516, 537 
Whitecastle know, British camp on, iv. 

Dumfries. 184 
Whitecastle, ruins of, ii. Haddington, 96 ' 
Whitecastle hill, vi. Lanark, 518, 520— 

plantations, 45 
Whitechapel, ruins of, iL Berwick, 71 
Whitecleugh, coal at, vi. Lanark, 500— 

quarry, 510 
Whitecoom hill, iv. Dumfries, 103 
Whitecraig quarry, xi. Kincardine, 284, 

289 
White £sk water, iv. Dumfries, 398, 409, 

430 
Whiteflat colliery, vi. Lanark, 64 5— iron- 
stone pit, 648 
Whiteford, property of, vii. Renfrew, 197 
Whitefriars^ monastery, Dunbar, ii. Had- 
dington, 79 
Whitefriars^ monastery, Fearn, 3dv. Ross, 

440 
Whitefriars^ monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 64 



Whitehall woods, iL Berwick, 126 
Whitehall, cascade at, iv. Dumfries, 54 
Whitehall, Dundee, xi. Forfar, 16 
Whitehaugh house and property, xii. 

Aberdeen, 447 
Whitehaugh water, v. Ayr, 149 
Whitehaugh plantations, iiL Roxburgh, 

441 
Whitehill, coins found at, v. A3rr, 517 . 
Whitehill, property of, xiii Banff, 284, 

287 
Whitehill, ironstone at, iv. Diunfries, 206 

—quarry, 208 
Whitehill, village of, i. Edinburgh, 500, 

501, 510— house, 611— improvements 

at, 613 
Whitehill cottage, ix. Fife, 718 
Whitehill, village o^ xi. Kincardine, 285 
Whitehill, Roman camp at, vi. Lanark, 

817— ruins at, 819 
Whitehill collieries, iii. Peebles, 120 
Whitehills, village o^xiiu Banff, 231, 236, 

238 
Whitehills moss, coins found at, iv. Dum- 
fries, 386 
WhitehiUs castle, ruins of, xi. For&r, 396 
Whiteholm, Druidical remains at, iv. 

Dumfries, 198 
WHiitehope house, iii. Selkirk, 38 
Whitehouse, remains at, xii. Aberdeen, 

613 
Whitehouse of Arran, the, v. Bute, 5 
White Inch, improvements at, vi Lanark, 

695 
Whitekirk hill, ii Haddington, 29 
Whitekirk and Tjmninghame, united par 

rishes of, ii Haddington, 29 
Whiteknow house, iv. Dumfries, 538 
\VTiitelaw hill, iii Roxburgh, 448 
Whitelets, village of, v. Ayr, 122 
Whitemill point, xv. Orkney, 85 
Whitemire, village of, xiii Elgin, 226 
WhitemosB house, vi Lanark, 889 
Whitemoss loch, x. Perth, 716 
Whiten head, xv. Sutherland, 167 — rocks 

at, 85, 87 
Whiteness head, xv. Inverness, 463 
Whiteness, annexed parish of, xv. Shet- 
land, 59 — voe, 69 
Whiteridge collieries, vi. Lanark, 243 
Whiteriggs bridge, xi. Kincardine, 163 — 

house, 28 
Whiterigs house and property, ii. Bei> 

wick, 1 36 
Whiteshaw, property of, vi. Lanark, 579 
Whiteshaw bridge, coal at, vi. Lanark, 567 
Whiteside, Druidical remains at, xii. 

Aberdeen, 450 
Whiteside hill, camp on, iii. Peebles, 1 37 
Whitestone bridge, xi. Kincardine, 240—- 

inn, 243 
Whitewell house, xi. Forfiur, 200 
White Woollen hill, iv. Dumfries, 451 
White Wynd hiU, iv. Dumfries, 45J 
Whitfield Hmeworks, iii. Peebles^ U^t 



cl 



GEHB&AL IHBSZ. 



Whithorn, pariah of, iv. Wigton, 52 — iale, 

53 — priory, 6, 54— town, 54 
Whiting bay, r. Bute, 5 
Wliiting nesB, xL Forfiu-, 491, 494 
Whitock, ironstone at, â–¼. Ayr, 326 
Whitalaid loch, iii. Roxburgh, 270 
Whitalaid, property of; ii Berwick, 351 

— tower, ruins of, 353 
Whitalaid, improTemeata at, iiL Peebles, 

91 
Whitaome hill, ii Berwick, 176 — rill^, 

169, 172, 176 
Whitaome and Hilton, united pariahes 

of, ii. Berwick, 166 
Whittadder, aee Whitader 
\Vhittingham, pariah of, ii Haddington, 
61— caatle, 63, 65— village, 61, 67, 68 
— water, 61 
Whittlebum, improvementa at, v. Ayr, 

803 
Whjmtie, remains at, xiii Banff, 226 
Whytbanklee, village of; i. Edinburgh, 

423 
Wia isle, xiv. Invemeas, 182, 296 
Wick bay, xv. Caithneaa, 117, 118, 119 
—parish and town, 117 — fisheries, 153 
—head, 118, 119— water, 123 
Wick bay, Unst, xv. Shetland, 38— bu- 
rial ground at, 40 
Wicketahaw, property of, vi. Lanark, 578 
Wideford hiU, xv. Orkney, 1 
Wide Open pass, xi. Kincardine, 298 
Wide Open house, iii. Roxburgh, 146 
Widewall bav, xv. Orknev, 193 
Wigton parish and town, iv. Wigtoh, 1 — 
bay, 1, 10, 11, 24,52, 220, i v. Kirk- 
cudbright, 316, 373 — castle, ruins of, 
Wigton, 2 — monastery, 3 
Wigtonshire, observations on, iv. Wigton, 
'218 

Wildcat road, v. Ayr, 247 
Wilderness, ironstone pits at, vi. Lanark, 

648— wood, 403 
Wildshaw quarry, vi. Lanark, 510 
Wilkhouse, remains at, xv. Sutherland, 

200 
Wilkieston, village of, i. Edinburgh, 445 
Williamfield house, v. Ayr, 567 
William, Fort, see Fort William 
Williamsburgh, village of, vii. Renfrew, 

200 
Williamslea hill, iii. Peebles, 25 
Williamwath ford, iv. Dumfries, 206 
Willow isle, iv. Dumfries, 60 
Willowy ard, coal at, v. Ayr, 573 — quarrv, 

675 
Wilson's free school, Banff, xiii. Banff, 55 
Wilsoiitown ironworks, vi. Lanark, 78— 

village, 90 
Wilton, jmrish of, iii. Roxburgh, 76 — vil- 
lage, «1, 407 
Winchburgh, village of, i. Edinburgh, 1 39 
Windbrugh hill, iii. Roxburgh, 208, 210 

—loch, 209 
Windford lock, viii. Dvinbarton, 203 



Windgate houae, ri. Lanark, 819 
Windhead hill, iiL Roxbm^ 44 1 
Windleatrae law, 1. Edinbaig^, 404, vL 

Peebles, 27, 29 
Windmill hill quarry, vi Lanark, 446«— 

viUage, 467 
Windaard, lawhiU of, xi Forfiu*, 314 
Windy hills, xii Aberdeen, 316 
Windrdoora caatte, minao^ i Edinbmgli, 

418' 
Wine tower, mina of; xii Aberdeen, 251 
WingiU bank, vi Lanark, 806 
Winleaa loch and bom, xv. Caithneaa, 123 
Winnoch loch, v. Ayr, 692 
Winter b«m, vi Lanark, 848 
Winterhope hill, iv. Dumfriea, 276 
Winthaak quarry, ix. Fife, 305 
Winton, property of, ii Haddington, 290 

— house, ruins of, 48 — plantationa, 347 
Wiras bum, xi Forfiur, 519 
Wirrens hill, xi Forfar, 688 
Wishaw collierv, vi Lanark, 610 — dia- 

tiUery,t5. 622— houae, 444, 615,616, 

957 — tileworks, 611 — and Coltneaa 

railway, 446, 664, 798 
Wishawton, village of, vi Lanark, 621 
Wisp hill, viii Clackinannan, 77 
Wisp hill, iii. Roxburgh, 426, 427 
Wiston, village o^ vi Lanark, 95, 98 
Wiston and Roberton, united parishes of, 

vi. Lanark, 93 
Witch's know, Mordington, ii Berwick, 

338 
Witch know, remains found at, x. Perth, 

282 
Witch lake, ix. Fife, 456 
Woden den, iii Roxburgh, 303, 305 
^^'olf Clyde, scenery of, vi. Lanark, 342 

— moat at, 346 

Wolf hill, village of, x. Perth, 1171 
Wolflaw, property of, xi. Forfar, 294, 

302 
Wolflee, improvements at, iii. Roxburgh, 

217 
Wolfrod, limestone at, vi. Lanark, 82 
Wolfs bum, tradition regarding, xv. Caith- 
ness, 24 
Wolfs cleuch, the, i. Edinburgh, 202 
Woll bum, iii. Selkirk, 1 — plantationa, 

Roxburgh, 272 
Wood house, vi. Lanark, 278 
Wood bum house, i. Edinburgh, 69 
Woodbum den, xi. Kincardine, 23 
Woodcockair liill, iv. Dumfries, 290, 517 
Woodcot house, i. Edinburgh, 535 
Wooden, den of, iii. Roxburgh, 303, 305 

— hill, 220 — Roman camp on it, 197 — 
house, 320 — plantations, 327 — tower, 
ruins of, 223 

Woodend, property of, xi. Kincardine, 

325 
Woodend, trees at, vi. Lanark, 825 — hill, 

camp on, 817 — loch, 642 
Woodend, factory at, x. Perth, 154— 

house, 749, 938 



QENEBAL IKDBX. 



cU 



Woodend, remains found at, vii. Renfrew, 

503 
Woodgate, remains found at, viii Stirling, 

122 
Woodhall house, u Edinburgh, 111 
Woodhall loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 179 
Woodhall collieries, vi. Lanark, 775 — 
* ironstone at, ib. — house, ih. 783, 958 
Woodhaven ferry, ix. Fife, 512 — ^harbour, 

506, 514 
Woodhead, chapel at, xii. Aberdeen, 339 
Woodhead, improvements at, viii. Dun- 
barton, 198 
Woodhead, cairns, &c. at, xiv. Ross, 45 
Woodhead, plantations at, viii. Stirling, 

237, 254 
Woodhill hill, iv. Dumfries, 67 
Woodhill quarry, ix. Fife, 840 
Woodhill, remains on, iii. Peebles, 117 
Woodhill house, x. Perth, 787 
Woodhill, silver mine at, \'iii. Stirling, 

178, 181, 182, W7 
Woodhouse tower, ruins ot, iv. Dumfries, 

278 
Woodhouse hill, camp on, iii. Peebles, 

116 
Woodhouselces orchards, iv. Dumfries, 
488— house, 491— tower, ruins of, 490 
Woodhouselees, plantations at, i. Edin- 
burgh, 313 
Woodkin well, iv. Dumfries, 452 
Woodland hill, British camp on, v. Ayr, 

273 
Woodlands colliery, viii. Clackmannan, 

69 
Woodlands house, xi. Forfar, 498 
Woodley plantations, iL Haddington, 238 
Woodmill, limestone at, viiu Dunbaiton, 

181 
Woodneuk, Druidical temple ut, iv. Dum- 
fries, 559 
Woodside house, xiL Aberdeen, 1076— 
quoad $acra parish of, 1077 — village, 
1075 
Woodside limeworks, v. Ayr, 572 — pro- 
perty, 585 
Woodside, cairn at, xiii. Banff, 254 
Woodside, village of, iv. Dumfries, 447 
Woodside, village of, ix. Fife, 442 
Woodside colliery, vL Lanark, 728 
Woodside village of, x. Perth, 1171 
Woodside, property of, viL Renfrew, 197 
Woodside hill, iii. Roxburgh, 448— house, 

320— library, 437 
Woodside house, viii Stirling, 362 
Woodslee house, iv. Dumfries, 491 
Woodston hill, xi. Kincardine, 270 — plan- 
tations, 279— quarry, 89, 289 
Woodton, improvements at, xL Kincar- 
dine, 122 
Woodtop lime quarry, ix. Fife, 520 
Woodvillc house, i. Edinburgh, 1 1 1 



Wood wick bay, xv. Orkney, 197— ^marl at, 

199 
Woodwick bay and isle, xv. Shetland, 38 
Woolmet, suppressed parish of, i. Edin- 
burgh, 561— house, 569— village, 570, 
575 
Wormington, tradition regarding, iiL Rox- 
burgh, 150 
Wormiston, camp at, iii. Peebles, 147 
Wormistone house, ix. Fife, 951— plan- 

tatioTis &t 94 5 
Worrait hay, ix. Fife, 506, 578— den, 578 
Wormwell hiU, iii. Peebles, 79 
Wormyhills bleachfield, xi. Forfar, 333 
Wrae, quarries at, iiL Peebles, 92 
Wrath, cape, xv. Sutherland, 84, 85, 86, 

87— lighthouse, 94 
Wreaths castle, ruins of^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 

238 
Wuddy law, tumulus on, xi. Forfar, 399 
Wyesbie hill, well at, iv. Dumfries, 276— 

house, 278« 280 
Wymet, see Woolmet 
Wj-ms, village of, vii. Argyle, 652, 655 
Wyndford loch, viii. Dunbarton, 151— 

minerals at, 1 80 
Wynncficld plantations, ii. Berwick, 167 
Wynnie water, x. Perth, 426, 
Wyvis, Ben, xiv., Ross,211, 212, 244, 318 
Wyre isle, xv. Orkney 196 
Yaiken liank, the, kiii. Banff, 98 
Yardside, ferm of, v. Ayr, 606 
Yarrow, pariah of, iiL Selkirk, 29 — water, 

2, 36, 79 
Yarrowford, village of, iii. Selkirk, 53 
Yarrows hills, xv. Caithness, 119 — cairns 

on, 137— loch, 124 
Yell island, xv. Shetland, 23, 82— sound, 

56, 82 
Yerk tower, xiiL Elgin, 102 
Yerrick bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 146 
Ycskenably, ruins of church at, xv. Ork- 
ney, 53 
Yesker isle, xiv. Inverness, 240 
Yester, parish of, iL Haddington, 153— 

castle, 157— heuse, 165 
Yetholm, parish of, iiL Roxburgh, 159*- 
common, 170 — law, 161 — remains on 
it, 163— loch, 160, 450— villages, 159 
Yetts of Muckart, viii. Clackmannan, 69, 

X, Perth, 301 
Yew trees, rise of the Forth at, x. Perth, 

1162 
Yieldshields limeworks, vi. Lanark, 570— 

village, 592 
Yoker, village of, viiL Dunbarton, 15, 29 
YonbeU hiU, xv. Orkney, 42 
Yoolfield spinning mills, ix. Fife, 724 
Ythan river, xiL Aberdeen. 131, 286, 317, 
589, 591, 599, 667, 698, 800, 802, 900, 
901, 963— lodge, 698 
Ythsie, cairns at, xiL Aberdeen, 669 



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