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INTERESTING HISTORICAL
INCIDENTS.
The parish of Bona
was perhaps the smallest in the county of Inverness, extending only
to twelve ploughs, or three davochs of land. It extended from the
parish of Urquhart at the south-west to Inverness at the north-east,
and comprehended the separate estate of Abriachan, Dochnacraig or
Davochdearg, Dochcairn, Dochfour, and Dochgarroch. The boundary to
the East was Loch Ness, Little Loch Ness, and the river, and on the
West the hills and grazings of Caiplich. The church probably stood
at Killionan of Abriachan, or at Cladh Uradain of Lochend. In
pre-Reformation times the only name of an officiating ecclesiastic
found is that of Elias, vicar of Bona, in 1233. After the
Reformation the name of William Simpson is found as a "Reader" in
1567. Thomas Hines, whose stipend was less than that of the vicar of
Wakefield, is found in 1584. The self-aggrandizing Thomas Fraser,
first of Knockie, but better known as the first Fraser of Strichen,
busied himself in acquiring rights and tacks of teinds of parishes,
and amongst others those of Boleskine, Abertarff, and Bona. On the
18th of April, 1584, the said Thomas Innes with consent of George,
Bishop, and the Dean and Canons of Moray gave in tack to Thomas
Fraser of Strichen and Isobel Forbes his spouse for 19 years the
teinds of Bona, burdened with payment of £20 Scots to the minister
annually. On the 8th July, 1618, the Commissioners for the
plantation of Kirks united Bona with Inverness, and in respect of an
augmentation of £40 Scots to the minister of the United parish,
eiked to the endurance of the tack three nineteen years, and in
1634, Strichen agreed to a second augmentation of money and victual.
The family either by express grant, or by use, became patrons of
Bona, as well as tacksmen of the teinds, and after the Revolution by
the Act of 1690 patrons came to have absolute right of teinds,
subject to a competent stipend to the minister. In this way Strichen,
and afterwards in his place Lovat, had alternate right with the
Crown to present to the Collegiate Church of Inverness.
The uniting of the
two parishes was a grievous wrong, for it was almost impossible for
the people of Abriachan and the Caiplich to attend public worship at
Inverness. This was afterwards remedied in part by the erection of a
meeting-house, used also as an adventure school. This building, the
ruins of which I well remember, stood on the site of the lodge now
on the Inverness side of the burn, which is the march between
Dochnacraig and Dochcairn, and between the public road and the loch.
A croft, until lately called the Meeting House Croft, was attached
to the house and school, and the whole was part of the Dunain estate
and contiguous to the burial ground. During last century the present
channel of the march burn was formed in a straight line through the
meeting house croft to the loch, the old channel taking a straggling
course north-eastwards, and joining the loch where a road to Bona
ferry by the bank of the loch presently leaves the Urquhart road,
and by inattention or acquiescence a few acres of the Dunain estate
thus fell to Dochfour.
As far back as 1455,
after the forfeiture of the Earl of Moray, there were inter a/ia the
two Baronies of "Boniche," and of "Binochare" reserved to the Crown,
and it is now almost impossible to define their limits further than
this, that Dunain proper, between Dochgarroch and Kinmylies, which
does not lie in Bona parish, is part of the old Barony of Banquhar.
Probably Banquhar included all the Castle lands in the parishes of
Inverness and Bona, as these were granted to the family of Huntly.
There were two
schools in Bona—one at Abriachan of old standing, the office of
schoolmaster during part of the last half of last century being
filled by Mr Lachlan Maclachlan. I give a letter of Mr Maclachlan's
when at the Bona meeting house school, not that it is of much value,
but as a memento of the worthy teacher of Abriachan, father of an
honourable clergyman, Mr James Maclachlan, of Moy, and grandfather
of the eminent Celtic scholar, the late Rev. Dr Thomas Maclachlan.
The letter refers to some document thought to be of importance in a
question of hill marches between Borlum and Essich, at one time in
possession of a member of the Dochgarroch family, tenant of the
mains of Borlum-
'Sir,—The bearer
lately put me in mind of some paper that I happened to see with Hugh
Maclean, son to Robert Maclean, when he resided in Borlum,
concerning the marches thereof. I must own I did see such, which was
written in Clerk William Baillie's time. If it is of any service to
you, I cannot deny but I have seen them, and taught the boy to read
them. All that I can tell about them you will know, providing Robert Maclean denies to tell anything he knows; but I am sure, though I
cannot remember what is contained in them, that they are said and
mentioned in the said papers to be registered in Inverness. This is
all until you further inform yourself by Robert Maclean, or charge
me to tell what I know, from sir, your most humble servant,
(Signed) L. MAcLACHLAN.
Dochfure, 13th Sept.,
1763.
"P.S.—I do not want
to be put to any trouble."
The inhabitants at
the North end were much inconvenienced, and, wishing something
permanent, petitioned the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge in the terms annexed, with success. The school, called a
General Assembly school, was established at Dochgarroch. The first
erection, in which for some time I was a pupil, was replaced about
1838, and used until after the passing of the Education Act. A
half-holiday was always given on the occasion of the preachings by
the Rev. Alexander Clark by the burn side of Dochnacraig, and by the
Rev. James Kennedy, of Inverness, on the river side at Dochgarroch
locks. Crowds assembled, and the scholars were happy enough to
exchange these pleasant outside gatherings, though they lasted two
good hours, for the irksomeness of the indoor grind. The meeting
house having fallen into decay, service was occasionally held in the
old school of Dochgarroch, in which a loft was fitted up to
accommodate hearers. A raised platform at one end had an arm chair
for the minister in the centre, while on the right and left there
were pews for the Dochgarroch and Dochfour families, while
Dochnalurg had the front seat in the loft. The first christening I
ever witnessed was after a Gaelic evening service in the old school,
Mr Clark officiating. He was rather deaf that night, and could not
catch the name given by the father in a subdued tone, really a
whisper, though repeatedly asked. The ears of the young people in
the gallery were sharp enough and heard "Yos'" without difficulty.
At last one of the christening party interfered and shouted the name
loud enough. In after years I chaffed Joseph more than once, his
career being rather off the square, that this was to be accounted
for, by the difficulty of making a Christian of him at the outset,—
"Unto the Honourable
the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge,
"The petition of the gentlemen and heads of families in Dochfure
with the concurrence of the ministers of the Gospel at Inverness,
Humbly Showeth, —That
whereas that part of the united parish of Inverness and Bona called
Dochfure, lying at the distance of four miles from any school, as
also Dunain and Dochgarroch, which are contiguous to Dochfour,
labour under very great hardships and disappointments in not having
a schoolmaster to teach and instruct their children, are under the
necessity to apply to the Honourable Society that they may be
pleased to consider the great loss they sustain thereby.
"The different parts
above mentioned have no less than 40 children, who are all fit to
attend school, besides a number of children daily increasing.
May it therefore
please the Honourable Society to consider the condition of the above
named places and in their wonted goodness and clemency to grant the
petitioners their desire in appointing a schoolmaster for the
instruction of their children, And your petitioners will ever pray."
"N.B.—The ministers
will attest the truth of the above, and recommend the prayer of the
petition to the committee."
DOCHNACRAIG.
The two ploughs of
land sometimes called Davochdearg, and Davochnacraig, and in later
years more commonly called Lochend, appear for the first time in the
enumeration of the lands granted to the Earl of Huntly for the
keeping of the Castle of Inverness. These lands in old titles are
called the Barony of the Castle lands, and frequently described as
situated within the Barony of Banquhar. Dochnacraig extends from the
burn of Altdearg on the South, to the burn of Altdochcairn on the
North, the leading feature within its bounds being Castle Spiritane.
Much tradition regarding this ancient structure exists of a hazy
character, but all combining in connecting it with that branch of
the Maclean family which settled in the North. About 1420 Sir
Charles Maclean, it is said, built the castle which was practically
destroyed in the time of his son Hector by the Camerons. To Sir
Charles Maclean and his descendants the Clan Tearlaich I will allude
more particularly when Dochgarroch is reached.
No more beautiful
valley than that of the Ness, from Loch Ness to Inverness, could be
found in the Highlands. It has been sadly disfigured in various
places by the formation of the canal which also caused the removal
of the Castle.
The Castle, commonly
called "Spirital"—I give as "Spiritane," finding it so called in a
deed of 1671-- occupied a very, strong position on a promontory
naturally surrounded on three sides by water and with the artificial
moat surrounded on all sides. Fortunately an outline of the remains
of the castle, as these existed a hundred years ago has been
preserved, showing the ruin, the moat, and over two acres of the
adjoining land, including the garden of one rood, thirty-seven
poles, Scots measure. At present the direct road to Bona Ferry
leaves the Glenurquhart road below Dochfour gardens, keeps by the
loch and river side, and may be driven over, but formerly the body
of water now surrounded by trees and separated from the river,
commonly called "The Abban," was an inlet covering ten acres, so
that the bye-goers had to ford it sonic distance from the castle.
When the canal was taken in hand it was at first intended not to
utilise the river as it emerged from Loch Ness to Bona Ferry, but to
cut a new straight channel to the North or West, from Loch Ness,
into Little Loch Ness, as it was called of old, some hundred yards
south of the Cladh Uradain. The expense of deepening and widening
the river was great, yet the danger of high wind acting on the
enormous surface of the waters of Loch Ness, straight upon
unprotected locks, was considered too dangerous, and the scheme was
abandoned. All that need he said here is. that had the decision been
otherwise Castle Spiritane would have been saved.
In 1805 the question
of assessing the compensation to be made by the Canal Commissioners
came on. The Dunain family, who had been long owners, were most
averse to the castle being interfered with, and in this they had the
strong sympathy of Dochgarroch, whose predecessors had been owners
long before the Baillies. A jury sat at Inverness on the 5th
October, 1805, Presided over by Duncan George Forbes of Culloden as
Chancellor, who valued Castle Spiritane and the two acres of
adjoining ground at one hundred and eleven pounds, but as the line
of the canal had not been finally settled upon and the Dunain family
so anxious to retain the castle, the following words were by consent
inserted in the judgment—" and these subjects are to remain the
property of the claimant, Mr Baillie, unless hereafter required for
the purposes of the canal, and in the event the same shall be so
required, the proprietor shall be bound and obliged to give them up
to the said Commissioners at the foresaid value now ascertained by
the jury."
Other objects of
interest in Dochnacraig were a cairn to the South of the burial
ground, the burial ground itself, the hollow of Ossian, the seat of
Uradan, the burn of Alt Tuarie, and the magnificent Carn Dearg
rising almost precipitously from Loch Ness to the height of i600
feet. It is matter of tradition that a good part of the southern
portion was under heavy wood, according to what the late Colonel
Maclean of Dochgarroch had been told in his youth (a hundred years
ago), and this is so far corroborated by the southmost town and
grazings being called Woodend. The southern portion has been planted
within the last twenty-five years, and is doing well. Prior to the
acquisition of Dochnacraig by Alexander Baillie of Dunain in 1619, I
have not observed any charters to previous owners, except the grant
to the family of Huntly. The Baillies allege that they take their
name from the town of Bailleul in French Flanders, now the
Department of the North, and claim that their predecessor came over
with William the Conqueror. In the roll of William's companions
prepared by M. Leopold Delisle, member of the Archological Institute
of France, with the approval of the Bishop of Bayeux, will be found
the names "Gullame Belot," "Renaud de Bailleul," and "De Bailleul,"
without Christian name. In the roll of Battle Abbey appear Bellet
and Bailif, and subsequently, under the name of Bailiol, the family
come much to the front.
John de Baliol,
grandfather of King John Baliol, who had married Devorgilla of
Galloway, founded Baliol College, Oxford, chiefly for the education
of Scottish students. Through Sir Alexander de Baliol, uncle or
grand uncle of King John, proceeded the Scottish Baillies whose
head, William, is in 1357 styled "Sir William Baillie of Laming-
ton." Alexander, son or grandson of the above Sir William, settled
in the North, and, according to the MS. of Colonel John Baillie of
Dunain, was the first Baillie of Dunain. In time we come to
Alexander, counted as seventh of Dunain, in great favour with the
Huntly family, and for some time their Chamberlain of Lochaber, with
the farms of Inverlochy in Lochaber, and Crathie Croy in Badenoch,
free of rent as part of his fee. The Baillies possessed Dochnacraig
on redeemable right before 1619, but their first indefeasible right
was granted iii that year by charter of George Earl of Enzie, and
Anna Campbell his spouse, with consent of the Marquis of Huntly,
dated at Bog o' Gight, 25th and 28th November, 1619. The subjects
granted were Dochnacraig, consisting of two ploughs of old extent
(with the exception after noticed), comprehending the shielings of
Freichorrie, Ruinataink, Ruinachorrie, and Ruiclachnagrane; as also
the lands of Davochcairns, extending to one plough of old extent,
and infeftment followed on11ith December, 1619, the witnesses
thereto being John dhu Baillie in Lagnalien, Alexander Vic Phadrig
in Davochnacraig, William Baillie in Davochfour, William Baillie in
Davochnacraig, Hector Vic Allister in Davochcairne, Farquhar Vic
Eachin, his son, etc.
Of the same dates the
Earl and Countess of Enzie, but without consent of the Marquis of
liuntly, as in the charter of Dochnacraig and Dochcairn, granted to
Alexander Baillie the alehouse and alehouse croft of Davochnacraig,
with pasturages and grazings in common with the other occupants; and
also "the salmon fishings upon the lake and water of Ness,
appertaining to the lands of Beandcher, with their pertinents, lying
within the castle lands of Inverness and Sheriffdom thereof." This
appears to be the original right to salmon fishings, and as the
Dunain family exercised the right from Clachnahalig to the Black
Stone of Abriachan, it would appear that latterly, and from 1619 at
least, the Barony of Benchar comprehended all the lands from Dunain
at the North to Abriachan at the South.
Alexander Baillie
gave a wadset of Dochnacraig to his third son, Captain James, and
appears to have lived there, probably at Castle Spiritane, part of
which was inhabited as late as 1671. Several letters of Alexander,
particularly the famous one addressed to the Lady Inshes of the day
in which he calls her "My Flower of the Forest," are dated from
Dochnacraig, and at the same place he grants a disposition of
moveables to his son David Baillie, dated 22nd January, 1658. In
June, 1671, this David Baillie, first of Dochfour, who will be
afterwards referred to, was in pecuniary ernbarassment, and a
messenger's expected call was prepared for. The messenger narrates
that having proceeded to the manor place of Castle Spiritane, where
the said David Baillie had his usual and actual residence, together
with his wife, children, and servants ; and getting no access, he
gave six audible knocks on the principal gates or doors of the
castle, and without response or opening of doors, he left his paper
in the keyhole. I find no other after reference to Castle Spiritan
until the canal was resolved upon.
Dochnacraig was under
wadset at different times, and though the involvements consequent on
the sudden death of Colonel John Baillie in 1797 necessitated its
scheduling, with a view to a judicial sale, the handsome price got
from the canal commissioners saved it to the Dunain family until the
death of the last Dunain in 1869; when falling to three heiresses
portioners the whole estate was sold to Sir John Ramsden, and
exchanged by him for lands belonging to the late Evan Baillie of
Dochfour in Badenoch.
DOCHCAIRN AND DOCHFOUR.
It would have been
observed that a charter of Dochcairns had been granted in 1619 to
Alexander Baillie of Dunain. In his time the family obtained its
highest standing, but having a large family he gave off portions in
wadset and otherwise. Dochcairns consisted of a plough of land,
extending from Dochnacraig at the South to the half davoch of
Dochfour at the North, and divided therefrom by a small streamlet,
now from drainage and otherwise at times hardly discernible, and of
old entering Loch Dochfour or little Loch Ness, near the boat-house.
Upon Dochcairns the present house, or rather the first of it, was
erected by Alexander Baillie, fourth of Dochfour, about 1770. There
must have been a house there at an earlier period, for I have seen a
deed bearing to be signed at Dochcairn in 1698. Before the grounds
were set out and the present ornamental and kitchen gardens extended
and formed, a small clump of old trees, half way between the house
and burn of Dochcairn, was well known as the "Fairy Knowe" of
Dochcairn, an object of much interest and speculation with the
young. In 1657 Easter and Wester Dochcairns were disponed by
Alexander Baillie to his second son, David Baillie, therein
described as "of Dochfour," with their shielings and grazings, and
the salmon fishings upon Little Loch Ness and the River Ness from
the burn of Wester Dochcairn to the march with Dochfour, reserving
the superiority and a feu of 4 bolls. The shielings of Dochcairns
were Rui-na-Ceardich, Rui-na-Sunderrie, Ruiic-Gillie-Chrom, and
Rui-na-Cierich, and it will be seen that the rights of grazing on
these shielings, and the contiguous ones of Dochnacraig, gave rise
afterwards to questions and litigation. Dochfour and Dochcairns
being thus conjoined in the year 1657, they will now be treated of
as one.
It seems probable
that all the land from Kinmylies to Abriachan had been occupied by
the two families of Baillie and Maclean upon redeemable rights or
tacks under the Gordons, ever since they acquired the Castle lands.
It is certain that Alexander Baillie of Dunain possessed Dunain,
Lagnalien, half of Dochgarroch, Dochcairn, and Dochnacraig, but I
have not observed that he or his predecessors had any right to
Dochfour, which remained on wadset from the Gordons down to 1770,
when it was first feued. The exact period of its acquisition by
David Baillie above mentioned, the first of the present family of
Dochfour, I have not observed, but it was after 1654 and prior to
1657.
In 1632, the then
wadsetter of Dochfour was Alexander Baillie (no doubt of the Dunain
family) who, designed "of Davochfour, is granted on 2nd October of
that year a receipt and discharge by the Earl of Enzie for sixteen
boils of victual for his "occupancy and possession" for crop 1631.
It would thus seem that the rent or feu for each plough of the
Castle lands was eight boils. Alexander Baillie, described as "of
Dochfour" in 'a deed of 1623, was succeeded by his son William
Baillie, who married Marion Maclean of Dochgarroch. This William,
described in 1637 as portioner of Dochfour, and in 1644 as heritable
proprietor, seems to have fallen into difficulties, for in 1637 he,
with consent of his wife, grants a wadset of the half of Dochfour to
Alexander Fraser, son to umquhile Malcolm Fraser of Culduthel, which
Alexander Fraser was the then tenant under Baillie of the lands so wadsetted. The wadset right is dated at Inverness 22nd August, 1637,
and registered 14th June, 1644. After 1644 I find no further
reference to the old Baillies of Dochfour. David Baillie was thus in
1657 wadsetter of Dochfour and feuar of Dochcairn, having right of
salmon fishing ex adverso of Easter and Wester Dochcairns.
Naturally, when Dochfour was a separate tenement, the dwelling-house
would he upon it, and so it was, at a pretty spot on the terrace of
the Dochfour Burn at Balnacruik. When rebuilding, either David
Baillie or his son Alexander, removed the dwelling-house to
Dochcairn as being their irredeemable property. Vestiges of the
original house at Balnacruik, afterwards converted into a barn,
remained within my recollection. David Baillie lived at Castle
Spiritan and a good deal at Kinmylies. He and his son Alexander
continued Catholics, and his evidence was refused in the Court of
Session in 1673 as being "unrelaxed " for some eight years by the
Presbytery of Inverness. He married first, in 1629, Janet, daughter
of William Paterson, burgess of Inverness, without male issue, which
marriage is not referred to in the Dochfour genealogy; second, Janet
Fraser. This marriage is stated in the genealogy to be with
"Margaret, daughter of the Lord Lovat." No date is given, and no
such marriage is to be found in the Lovat histories, and the name
certainly was not Margaret. True, Simon Lord Lovat in 1737 calls
Hugh Baillie, third of Dochfour, grandson of Janet, "his relation,"
but it must be remembered that with Lovat every Fraser was "his
cousin." There was a disposition of Dochcairn granted by David
Baillie in 1659 in favour of Janet Fraser and himself in life-rent
and their only son Alexander in fee. Alexander Baillie, second of
Dochfour, married first, about 1689, Mary, daughter of Alexander
Grant, in Milntown of Ballachastell, and Catharine Ogilvie, with
issue—one son, William, who died young. This marriage is omitted in
the Dochfour genealogy. He married, secondly, Hannah Fraser of
Reelig, with issue—Alexander, living in 1711, who predeceased his
father; Hugh, who succeeded; Evan of Abriachan; William of Rosehall
James; and David. Born prior to 1659, Alexander, blind for many
years, was living in 1737, a prominent man in his day. The address
to the Chevalier St. George, originated by Glengarry, was carried
through the Highlands for signature by Campbell of Glendaruel and
Dochfour, and several important meetings took place in the House of
Dochfour. This I give on the sworn affidavits of Castle- leathers,
the minister of Boleskine, and the catechist of Dores, emitted for a
special purpose in 1759. In 1709 Dochfour buys his feu over
Dochcairns from Dunain, but astricts the lands to the mill of Tor,
or Dunain mill, having previously in 1692 adjusted and settled all
questions between them. Dochfour was not in a hurry paying his
stipend. Crop 1720 would be due in spring 1721, and the Rev. Robert
Baillie has to take a bill dated 1st March, 1723, payable at the
Martinmas following for 88 nierks, of balance of the stipend, crop
1720. Even then he does not get payment and he records the bill on
28th April, 1724. Alexander Baillie of Dochfour was succeeded by his
eldest surviving son, Hugh, third of Dochfour, who, with his wife
Emilia Fraser, also of the family of Reelig, was infeft in
Dochcairri in 1733. He is chiefly known by his duel in the Caiplich
with the Chamberlain of Urquhart, so graphically narrated by Lord
Lovat in his letter to the Laird of Grant, 15th December, 1737. At
this time the family was numerous but scattered, Hugh and James
occupying some lands in Urquhart, their father still living. His son
Alexander was entered in Dochcairn by Alex. Baillie of Dunain in
1751. Besides Alexander Hugh Baillie had sons, James, Evan, Duncan,
and several daughters. The sons sought fortune abroad, and the three
elder were all very successful. Alexander, fourth of Dochfour,
returned about 1770, living at Cradlehall while the new house on
Dochcairn was being built. He planted the hills of Dochcairn and
Dochfour and greatly improved the place.
On the return home of
Colonel John Baillie of Dunain in 1784, the lairds of Dochfour and
Dunain, near neighbours, and no very distant cousins, fell out,
particularly about their grazings in the Caiplich, and landed in
Court, the name of the deceased Evan Baillie of Abriachan being
severely reflected on by Dunain, while as warmly defended by
Dochfour, Abriachan's nephew. The Duke of Gordon, who was then
selling the superiorities of the Castle lands, inter- vened.
Dochfour was desirous of peace, Dunain was immersed in the formation
of the Inverness Fencibles, and in 1794 matters were adjusted in
this way. The Duke sold the superiorities of Dunain, Dochgarroch,
and Dochnacraig to Dunain, thereby constituting him a freeholder,
and he sold the superiority of Dochfour and Dochcairns to Dochfour.
Dochfour gave up to Dunain all the Dochcairn shielings west of the
burn and in the heights of Caiplich ; while Dunain gave to Dochfour
the salmon fishings opposite to or ex adverso of the lands of
Dochfour proper, the want of which had been a sore subject with the
Dochfour family all along, not only as in emulatione viciizi but
comprehending the pool of Carn Robbie, well known as one of the
surest in the river. Upon Alexander Baillie of Dochiour's death in
1799, without lawful issue, he, ignoring the sons of his deceased
immediate younger brother James, left a settlement in which his
trustees are directed to offer Dochfour at the sum of 6io,000 to his
third brother Evan, who had by this time acquired the barony of
Kinmylies, and if he declined, to hold the estate until the majority
of his, Alexander's, illegitimate son Alexander. Evan accepted the
offer, and he and his successors have since, though not the elder
branch, possessed Dochfour. Evan's eldest son, Peter, having
predeceased his father, the succession opened to Peter's eldest son
Evan in 1835, who, dying a few years ago, was in turn succeeded by
his grandson, the present James Evan Bruce Baillie of Dochfour, M.P.
for the County of Inverness
From 1820, when the
last Baillie of Dunain's brothers died, and he himself had become
incurably insane, it became a paramount object with the Dochfour
family to acquire Dunain whenever the opportunity offered, and how
this and the estate of Dochgarroch fell ultimately into their hands
will be afterwards told.
THE MACLEANS OF
DOCHGARROCH.
The family of Maclean
of Dochgarroch stood as one of the oldest resident heritors in the
now united parishes of Inverness and Bona. Unfortunately accounts
differ as to their genealogy, and though naturally quite disposed as
grand nephew of the last Dochgarroch to accept the longest pedigree,
I content myself at present with going back for the trifling period
for a Maclean of 450 years, and mentioning those regarding whom
there can be no doubt. Between the years 1580 and 1640 one name is
frequently, referred to in the records of the parish, viz., that of
Alexander Maclean of Dochgarroch, commonly styled "Allister-Vic-Coil-Vic-Ferquhar."
He is once or twice found with the two additional patronymics of
"Vic-Eachin-Vic-Harlich." I therefore start with
I. CHARLES, Constable
of Urquhart and Castle Spiritan, of whom the race of Clan Thearlafch.
He is found, together with his son Hector, witnessing charters by
John, last Earl of Ross and Lord of the Isles. Mr William Mackay in
his valuable work, published in 1893, identifies Hector with the
well-known lands now called Balmacaan, but really Balmaceachain n,
in Urquhart.
II. HECTOR married,
said to be his second wife, Margaret, third daughter of Malcolm,
tenth of Mackintosh, under whom the above Charles Maclean described
as "Tearlach Vic Eeachin Vic Wolan " had taken protection for
himself and his successors. Mr Mackay explains very clearly the
origin of the questions between the Mackintoshes and the Kilravocks
anent the possessions of the crown lands of Urquhart and
Glenmoriston, arising out of the above marriage, and it is matter of
regret to the descendants of Maclean and Mackintosh that, while too
weak to retain them himself, Kilravock was the means whereby the
lands were lost to both families. Hector Maclean was ultimately
succeeded by his son,
III. FARQUHAR, in
whose time, driven out of Urquhart and having no certain standing
elsewhere, the fortunes of the family were at a low ebb. It is
certain however that at this period the Dochgarroch family were
closely connected with Farquhar Maclean, Bishop of the Isles, and
with Agnes and Marion Maclean, Prioresses of Iona. Indeed by some
the two Farquhars have been held as one and the same person.
Farquhar was in turn succeeded by his younger son,
IV. DONALD, who is
the first I find in Dochgarroch, and styled "Donald Farquhar's son
in Dochgarroch." He serves at Inverness as a juryman on the 3rd of
July, 1557, in the service of Lachlan Mackinnon of Strathwordell as
heir to his father Ewen Mackinnon. Donald's name is found in the
Sheriff Court records of the period both as pursuer and defendant.
Although the family possessed no indefeasible title to Dochgarroch
until the year 1623 they, from 1557 downwards, kept possession, and
Donald himself, at least nominally, was proprietor of Raasay and
part of Trotternish. This is proved by a Precept of Clare Constat by
John, Bishop of Sodor or the Isles, perpetual commendator of the
Monastery of St. Columba in Iona, with consent of his Archdeacon and
other Canons chapterly assembled, dated Edinburgh the 10th January,
1631, in favour of Alexander Maclean, who is therein described as
son of the late Donald Maclean, son of Ferquhard, son of Hector,
which Donald was last vest and seized in the lands, comprehending
the 8 merks of Raasay and three merks in Trotternish. It is to be
feared that Dochgarroch was proprietor only in name, for Archdeacon
Monro in 1549 describes Raasay as pertaining to MacGillechallum by
the sword, and to the Bishop of the Isles by heritage. The
Archdeacon was a cousin of Dochgarroch, the latter no doubt getting
Raasay from the Bishop, his relative, with the view of expelling
MacGillecha]lum. It is said that Donald lived to 1622, but this,
though not impossible, is unlikely, seeing he is found filling the
responsible position of juryman in 157, and though there are several
documents extant from and after 16o6, no reference is made to his
being then in life. Donald had a younger son, styled Hector Vic Coil
Vic Ferquhar, who resided chiefly at Culcabock and married Margaret,
daughter of Paul Macpherson of Lonnie. He is found at Culcabock
1614-1621, and on 31st May in the latter year he discharges his
brother Alexander of 1000 merks which Alexander had bound himself to
settle on his brother at his marriage. Donald Maclean was succeeded
by his eldest son,
V. ALEXANDER who,
described as "Alexander Vic- Coil Vic Ferquhar," is mentioned in
1611 as a creditor of Rose of Kilravock for 2000 merks. It is said
that Alexander was thrice married, and that his first wife was a
daughter of Kilravock. I have found no verification of this
statement, nor any other connection between the families other than
the above, which shows that Dochgarroch was a man of considerable
means. That he was a man of integrity is shown by his having been
entrusted with the Kingairloch charters which he delivered back to
Donald Maclean, Hector's son, apparent of Kingairloch, on 6th
December, 1609. He was certainly twice married, first to Margaret
Grant, a daughter of Glenmoriston or Corriemony, and I infer of the
former because in the marriage contract of their son, John Maclean,
with Agnes Fraser of Struy, in 1629, John Grant of Glen moriston is
mentioned as one of the friends. Although Allister Maclean was in
possession of Dochgarroch, the lands seemed to have been under
wadset by the Gordons to Dunain. On the 3rd of April, 1605,
Alexander Baillie of Dunain grants receipt for 900 merks to Allister
Vic Coil Vic Ferquhar "in Davochgarroch in full payment of the sum
contained in a contract and appointment for the sale of Dunain's
rights over Dochgarroch, dated 28th March, 1605. On the 7th of June,
1606, Dunain grants disposition to Dochgarroch of the lands of
Dochnalurg, extending to a quarter davoch of old extent, upon which
Dochgarroch was infeft on the 19th of June, 16o6. In these two deeds
Allister is styled "of Dochgarroch." On the 17th June, 16o6, there
is another contract between Dunain and Dochgarroch, showing that
Dunain's rights were redeemable, and giving power to Dochgarroch to
transact with the Earl of Enzie. Sasine followed on the 19th of
June. In 1615 Dochgarroch deals with the Gordons, and in implement
of an agreement and the payment of large sums, the Earl of Enzie,
Anna Campbell his spouse, and the Marquis of Huntly grant a charter
of Dochgarroch and Dochnalurg, dated at Inverness and Aboyne on the
4th and 15th July of the above year. This right was redeemable and
it was not until 1623 that an indefeasible title was obtained by
Alexander Maclean. On the 12th May that year at Inverness a contract
is entered into between the Gordons and Alexander Maclean and his
son John, whereby the Macleans on the one hand renounce all present
rights, discharge 3000 merks of wadset monies and pay 2000 merks
further, and on the other hand the Gordons agree to give a feu
charter of Dochgarroch, a half davoch, and of Dochnalurg, a quarter
davoch lands, with a feu of two chalders, and persona] obligations
as to hoisting and hunting, attending the superior courts, etc. A
charter in these terms is granted on the same day by the Earl of
Enzie with consent of the Marquis of Huntly, directed to Alexander
Baillie of Dochfour as bailie, on which infeftment followed also
same day. Among the witnesses were Allister- Mor- Vic- lain-Vic-
William, in Lagnalien; Duncan Vic-Coil-dhu, in Davochgarroch; Donald
Vic-Andrew there, and others. This charter was confirmed by Charles
I. at Edinburgh on the 2nd February, 1635.
Having got Allister
Vic Coil Vic Ferquhar at length fully vested in the estates I turn
to a description of the lands and some events in their history.
The following is the
description and boundaries of Dochgarroch and Dochnalurg, as
contained in the feu charter by the Earl of Enzie with consent of
the Marquis of Huntly, in favour of Alexander Maclean of Dochgarroch
and his eldest son John, in life rent and fee respectively, dated
12th May, 1623—
"All and whole the
lands of Dochgarroch, extending to half a davoch of land of old
extent,' and also the town and lands of I)ochnalurg extending to a
quarter of a davoch of land of old extent, with power of building a
miln, with the sheillings in the Hill of Caiploch called Rui-Cruinn,
and Rui-BIar-na-Cailleach, which lands of Dochgarroch and
I)ochnalurg lie contiguous limited and bounded as follows,
viz.:—Beginning at the Eastern boundary at the stream descending
from the Hill of Caiploch, which is called the burn of Dochgarroch,
and separates said lands of Dochgarroch from the lands of Lagnahan,
and thereafter said burn descending to a loch called Lochan Shan
Vall, and from thence stretching to the summit of Tormore and even
to the Gob which leads in to the water of the Ness at the East; and
bounded by the burn of Dochfour, and a stone wall which leads to the
water of Ness and separates said lands of Dochnalurg from the lands
of Dochfour at the West; the water of Ness at the South; and
stretching themselves in the Hill of Caiploch until they reach to
the common pastures of the lands of Moniack, Holme and Craggach in
the North."
This is an unusually
clear delimitation, and upon the Dunain, River, and Dochfour sides
little change of marches has since taken place. There were questions
with Dunain, however, at the East, properly North. From the source
of the Dochgarrocli Burn the line was clear, but higher up towards
the Caiplich there was no definition. In June, 1652, the questions
of marches between Dunain and Dochgarroch were referred to Hugh
Fraser of Struy and John Forbes of Culloden, who set up a cairn near
the head of Alt Dynack (which is the chief source of the Burn of
Bunchrew), and from thence to the source of the Burn of Dochgarroch,
as the march. This decision was not satisfactory. Both parties
issued letters of lawburrows against the other, and both were
harrassed by the town people cutting peats. To defeat the common
foe, John Maclean of Dochgarroch and William Baillie of Dunain
agreed again to arbitrate, and on the 27th of June, 1659, an
imposing gathering, indeed it may be called a court, was held "at or
near the place called the Head of Auldynak," in the Caiplich.
Dochgarroch, with his son Alexander, and Dunain were personally
present, together with numerous followers as witnesses; also
Lieut.-Colonel Miles Man, Deputy Governor of Inverness; Hugh Fraser
of Belladrum ; Lachlan Mackintosh, brother german to the Laird of
Mackintosh; John Forbes of Culloden; Hugh Fraser of Struy; and
Alexander Mackintosh of Connage, Justices of Peace of the Sheriffdom
of Inverness. The Justices heard parties, and the testimony of
Belladrum and Culloden, the arbiters of 1652, and of David Baillie
of Dochfour, also present then and now, and adhered to the line then
fixed, adding to and enlarging the cairn at Alt Dynack, and placing
fifteen other cairns along the line to the head of the Burn of
Dochgarroch. The decision was without prejudice to the protests of
the town of Inverness and others then made, and the written decision
was ordered to remain in possession of Connage, whose clerk, William
Cumming, was to give transumpts to all concerned. Lochan Shan Val,
along the Dunain march, has from drainage operations disappeared. It
lay immediately to the right of the present road to Glenurquhart,
where going from Inverness the house of Dochgarroch first comes in
sight. The Tormore, or Hill o' Torr, is the highest wooded ground
near the river, but the "Gob," described as running into the river
disappeared during the Canal operations, having together with a good
deal of the Tormore, been utilized for its clay in puddling the
Canal sides and bottom. Before the final raising of the level of the
Canal there were two solitary alder trees, ordinarily a few inches
from the Canal waters, slim, but of some height, so close that they
appeared as if springing from the same root, one being situated on
Dochgarroch and the other on Dunain.
It has been
repeatedly told me that prior to the Canal operations, the river
from its emerging at Little Loch Ness down to the famous pool, "Poll
an Laggan," was a perfect dream of beauty. It spread widely opposite
Dochnalurg, and flowed peacefully by various channels along several
islands, attractively and variedly wooded, while the steep slopes of
Borlum were one thick mass of green firs. The march with Dochfour
was unaltered, except that the burn, having occasionally altered its
course, was not actually the march towards the river. The burn, with
its chief source, the Tuarie, having a long course, the Dochgarroch
hill lands not only entirely overlapped Dochfour and Dochcairn but
also a part of Dochnacraig. The estate lost heavily at its North and
Vest march. Dunain claimed the old Urquhart road as the Vest march
but Dochgarroch claimed the watershed with the Aird, and all lands
draining into the Alt Tuarie and Dochgarroch burns, which left quite
enough to Craggach, Holm, and Moniack, of the hill grazings and
pasturages proper to them, facing the Beauly Firth and draining
thereunto. As matters stood until the sale of Dochgarroch in 1832,
this question was debated, but in 1835, soon after the accession of
the late Evan Baillie of Dochfour, he entered into an arbitration,
foolishly referring it to a person closely connected with one of the
Aird proprietors, who gave to the Dochgarroch estate a mere stripe
West of the old Glenurquhart Road, and cut off a large portion of
muir and valuable peat ground actually watered by an affluent of the
Tuarie, giving it to Reelig. Here the parish of Bona lost largely to
the parish of Kirkhill.
A portion of
Dochnalurg towards the hill is called "Iss-a-chath" or Battlefield.
This is the way it is pronounced but I presume the right spelling is
"Innis," used as "place," or "Ionnsaidh," "attack," or "assault."
Here was fought over 400 years ago the battle thus described in the
MS. History of the Frasers--
"In the minority of
James III. Donald of Isles broke out into insurrection and was
partly checked by Lord Lovat. He was so incensed that he left his
brother, Alexander, and a considerable body of men to harass Lord
Lovat's country, and to prevent his pursuing the rear of the main
force ; and their numbers daily increasing, they had at last laid
siege to Lovat. Hugh Lord Lovat ordered his clan and vassals to
assemble, and having sallied out, he attacked the Macdonalds briskly
on the side of Lovat, while the country people having notice
thereof; killed all that straggled from the main body, and then
attacked the Macdonalds in flank, so that they were soon obliged not
only to raise the siege but to retreat. Lord Lovat pursued them to
the Caiploch, about four miles West of Inverness, and there fought
the battle of Mam-Cha, where the Macdonalds received such a total
overthrow that they made no more attempts in Lovat's country."
There is a famous
iron spring near the head of Ault Tuarie, called the "Fuaran Dearg,"
of old held in great repute for its strengthening power, also
several fine springs, notably one at the Blackfold, another below
Easter Ballimore, and another below Battlefield. A mile to the south
of the Fuaran Dearg is the the well-known Fuaran-na-Baintighearna,
or the Lady's Well, where three properties meet. The most
picturesque object is the Burn of Dochfour, which has three fine
falls within short distances, with its pool above the most
dangerous, inhabited in my youth by the each uisge. It is
beautifully wooded, contains wild fruit in abundance, with numerous
specimens of rare flora, and altogether, though 54 years have passed
since I left Dochnalurg, the burn has so impressed and interwoven
itself into my early life, that in Dreamland, associated with
youthful sports and researches, it frequently appears, and for the
moment I am young again.
Having got
Allister-Vic-Coil-Vic-Ferquhar vested in the estates, I shall
continue Alexander's own history, who is reported to have fought at
Glenlivat ; and this is possible, although I find no verification of
it, nor of the allegation that he went in force to recover Raasay.
That he was killed and buried in Kilpheder in 1635 is not correct,
as I have a discharge in his favour by Effie Macbean, goodwife of
Essich, dated the 24th May, 1640. In a deed of 31st July, 1641, his
son John is designed as apparent of Dochgarroch; and it is not until
8th July, 1644, that I find John Maclean designed "of Dochgarroch."
Alexander's father Donald must have been in a very humble position
at his son's birth, seeing that he was unable to give him such an
education as would enable him to sign his name. Notwithstanding his
inability to write, Alexander raised his family to a position and
influence not maintained by his successors.
In 1609 he renews his
dependence on Mackintosh for himself and his race of Clan Tearlaich,
which brought him into trouble afterwards. The extraordinary
antipathy of James, Earl of Moray, to the Clan Chattan which
involved not only other families, but the town of Inverness, is well
depicted by Spalding. Among others, Alexander Maclean was charged by
David Stewart, Procurator-Fiscal for Lord Moray, with "resetting,
supplying, and inter-communing with the name and rebels of Clan
Chattan, their associates, followers, and dependers." Dochgarroch
evidently thought discretion the better part of valour, and he
appeared at a court held at Elgin on the 6th November, 1629, and
"confessed his guiltiness"; and throwing himself on the Earl's
clemency was fined. The amount is not stated, and probably all the
Earl wanted was submission. Four days later, on ioth November, he
remits the fine and discharges Dochgarroch.
Alexander got into
serious involvement with the Earl of Enzie, by having along with
Alexander Baillie of Dunain granted as cautioners a bond for 3300
merks to James Cuthbert of Drakies, dated 10th June, 1626. The Earl
having failed to pay, all kinds of diligence were taken against
Dunain and Dochgarroch in 1633, which so alarmed Thomas Fraser of
Struy, whose daughter had married Alexander's son John in 1629, as
to necessitate his taking steps against Dochgarroch to protect his
daughter's interest. Alexander had at least three daughters, (1)
Agnes, who married William, younger brother of Alexander Baillie of
Dunain, contract dated 11th March, 1614 —tocher 1000 merks,
discharged 10th November the same year, two of the witnesses being
John Grant of Glenmoriston and Alexander Baillie of Dunain. (2)
Marion, who married William Baillie of the old Baillies of Dochfour,
and is referred to in 1637. (3) Janet, who married first, as his
second wife, James Cumming of Deishangie, on 27th October, 1625.
Dochgarroch settles 1000 and Delshangie 2000 merks upon Janet; and
among the witnesses to the contract are Mr Alexander Grant, minister
of Urquhart, and Alexander Baillie of Dunain. This Janet lived to a
good age, being found in 1674 as then wife of James Grant of
Sheuglie. From Delshangie sprung the Cummings, writers in Inverness,
between whom and the Macleans several marriages took place. Lasting
over 200 years, the race terminated in the person of Alexina,
commonly called "Lexy" Cumming, who died at Inverness about fifty
years ago, reputed to be a hundred years of age, daughter of James
Cumming, writer and messenger in Inverness. I recollect being
introduced as a cousin to this venerable lady, whose masculine
features and huge silver snuff box made a deep impression upon me.
The Hogarth portraits of Simon Lord Lovat have taken such a hold on
the public mind and become so numerous that it can hardly be
credited that his Lordship, as late as the period of his being
Governor of Inverness, was a remarkably fine looking man. Miss
Cumming was the possessor of a really fine portrait by Zell, which
still exists. The insignificant little representation given in the
edition of Major Fraser of Castle Leathers' Manuscript published a
few years ago, attributed to Zell, while it has the same dress and
pose, is not only an inadequate representation but changes the whole
expression. Alexander's first contract of marriage is not preserved
; the second, with Annabella Munro of Daan, dated at Inverness in
1628, is in fair condition. Alexander was succeeded by his eldest
son,
VI. JOHN, who in
1629, married Agnes Fraser, daughter of Thomas Fraser of Struy, who
survived her husband and eldest son Alexander. It will be
recollected that by the feu charter of Dochgarroch, the feu duty
stipulated was two chalders, or 32 bolls, and man service in
"hoisting" and "hawking" or a suitable man in place. All the
Dochgarroch accounts, traditional and otherwise, speak of the feu
being doubled on account of some old failure in duty on the part of
Maclean. So far as can be seen, the ordinary feu was 8 bolls per
plough, or 32 for the davoch. Dochgarroch and Dochnaiurg consisted
of three ploughs, so that upon it was placed an additional burden of
8 boils, and thus some foundation for the tradition. Serving in
"hoisting" meant to rise in arms with the superior, and there has
most fortunately been preserved a formal receipt to John Maclean for
a sufficient well mounted trooper, which I give in full. Such an
acknowledgment is rare, and the granter's designation reminds us at
once of the famous I)ugald Dalgetty, whom Sir Walter Scott calls "
Rit Master." The word is, of course, German, but is spelt "Rute " in
this document—
"I, Alexander Gordon
of Birsmoir, Rute Master of Horse under the Marquis of Huntly,
grants me to have received from John Maclean of Dochgarroch ane
sufficient trooper well mounted, with horse, saddle, clothes with
trappings, as becomes ane trooper to have, whereof I grant the
receipt and that for his usual lands as weel hadden as not hadden of
the said Marquis of Huntly, and discharges the said John Maclean of
Dochgarroch, his heirs, executors, and assignees thereof; for now
and ever, obliging the said Alexander Gordon, Rute Master of Horse
aforesaid, to warrant this my discharge, good, valid and effectual,
to the said John Maclean and his forsaids at all hands and against
all mortals, and that conform to a warrant granted by his Majesty to
warrant him as ane servitor, and likeways discharges all officers
and soldiers from any quartering of the said John Maclean of
Dochgarroch his lands within the Parochin of Inverness and Castle
lands thereof; and these presents shall be your warrant. Dispensing
by these presents with his own personal forthcoming, whenever the
same is presented to you by these presents, subscribed with my hand
at Inverness, the twelfth day of July, sixteen hundred and
fifty-nine years. (Signed) A. GORDON of Birsmore."
John Maclean's eldest
son,
VII. ALEXANDER,
married on the 28th of November, 166, Agnes, daughter of Alexander
Chisholm of Cornar. He predeceased his wife, father, and mother,
dying in the month of September, 1671, leaving two children at
least— John and Allan, the eldest of whom succeeded his grandfather
John, in October, 1674, Agnes Fraser, his grandmother, dying six
years later, in 1680. Curiously, every account erroneously states
that Alexander died without issue, thereby, if true, cutting off
from all the subsequent Macleans the honourable blood of the
Chisholms. But in Alexander's will, dated the 3rd of August, 1671,
he nominates his brother John as tutor to his "eldest son." Another
brother of Alexander's named Donald, upon the 2nd of June, 1685,
grants a discharge to John Maclean, then of Dochgarroch, "as oye to
John Maclean, sometime of Dochgarroch," and in gremic discharges
John Maclean of all he can ask of him for himself, or by or through
the decease of Alexander Maclean, his father, or John Maclean, his
goodsir, his (Donald's) father and brother. The other children of
John Maclean of Dochgarroch and Agnes Fraser whom I have noticed
were John, described as in Leys; (2) Hector, in Dochnalurg; (3)
Donald, merchant burgess of Inverness; (4) Farquhar, in Kin mylies;
(5) Elspet, described as eldest daughter, married prior to 1657
Angus MacQueen in Inshes, of the Corrybrough family; (6) Catharine,
married, first to Donald Munro, in Culcabock; second, to Duncan
Macpherson, in Daltochy of Ardclach, contract dated penult January,
1669; and (7) Janet, who married Malcolm, younger son of William
Mackintosh of Holme, contract dated, 19th May, 1665. Alexander's
eldest son,
VIII. JOHN, married
on the 23rd December, 1682, Margaret, daughter of David Fowler,
Bailie of Inverness. Upon the narrative that he was "presently going
to His Majesty's Host," John Maclean granted a factory to his
brother german, Allan Maclean, dated Inverness, 19th October, 1688.
He was present at Killiecrankie. This step was ruinous to
Dochgarroch, and from this time cmbarassments arose. John left
several children; his daughter Margaret married—contract dated
Gartallie, 28th November, 1705—William Grant, younger son of
Corriemonie. The deed is written by John Maclean, younger of
Dochgarroch, and among the parties' cautioners and witnesses are
John Grant, elder of Corriemonie; John Maclean, elder of Dochgarroch;
James Cumming, younger of Deishangie; Master James Stewart,
schoolmaster at Urquhart; Alexander Baillie of Dochfour; and Robert
Grant in Buntait, brother german to Corriemonie. Another daughter,
Janet, married—contract dated 26th December, 1723—William, son of
Duncan Mackintosh, and grandson of the late William Mackintosh of
Borlum, my great grand parents. John, eighth of Dochgarroch, died
before 1710, his widow living until 1724. Besides the two daughters
above named John and Margaret Fowler left several sons, of whom I
have noted Alexander, Donald, David, and Lachlan.
Here it will be
convenient to refer to a distinguished descendant of this John
Maclean, known as John " whose benefactions are destined to prove of
inestimable value to the name of Maclean. John Og's third son,
Donald, served James VII. and after the Revolution settled in
Argyleshire. From him through his son Lachlan derived
Lieutenant-Colonel Alexander Maclean, some time of the 3rd West
India Regiment. Colonel Maclean, by his settlement, dated 1857,
ordered a sum of L20,000 to be set apart and administered by the
Lord Provost and Magistrates of Glasgow for the support and
education of a certain number of boys named Maclean. The fund was so
administered until the passing of the Education Act, which so much
interfered with such bequests, that for a time the scheme was
practically in abeyance, much to the regret of the numerous Macleans
in Glasgow and elsewhere. But a few of the most energetic of the
name, including in particular Mr Walter Maclean, President of the
Clan Maclean Association; Mr C. J. Maclean, Treasurer; and Mr John
Maclean, one of the Vice-Presidents, the latter being of the
Dochgarroch family, bestirred themselves to adapt the bequest to the
altered circumstances, and still secure all the advantages intended
by the testator. The Lord Provost and Magistrates gave their cordial
concurrence, and ultimately, though not without great pertinacity
and determination, a new scheme suitable to the altered state of the
law, and to include girls, was agreed upon, and received the
sanction of the legal authorities. The scheme so approved of and now
in operation is as follows-
The interest of
£20,000 capital is applied to—(I) Maintenance of bursaries of the
value of £5 per annum, open to boys or girls between the ages of
seven and fourteen years of the name of Maclean in attendance at any
public or State- aided school, available for two years, but may be
renewed. (2) School bursaries of the value of not less than £10, or
more than £15 per annum, open to boys or girls of the name of
Maclean who have passed the Fifth Standard for one year at any
public or State-aided or technical school or classes for technical
or manual instruction approved of by the Governors, but these also
may he renewed. (3) University bursaries of the value of not less
than £25, or more than £30 per annum, open to male or female
candidates of the name of Maclean to be awarded by competitive
examination in such manner as the Governors shall determine, and
tenable for four years at any Scottish University. It should be
further mentioned that Colonel Alexander Maclean left a sum of
£1500, to be set apart for the establishment and support of a church
to the memory and honour of the Macleans and their close connection
with Iona, to be called Reliç Oraiiz nain Braitlirean, the sittings
to be free, especially to soldiers, sailors, and pensioners, who
understand Gaelic. This sum having been found insufficient, was
increased to £5000, and the interest —£150—is now divided between
the Church of Scotland and the Free Church for the support of Gaelic
missionaries in Glasgow, each receiving £75.
IX. JOHN, ninth of
Dochgarroch, succeeded his father, and in 1710—contract dated 30th
January, 1710- married Christian Dallas, eldest daughter of the
deceased Alexander Dallas, with consent of her brother, William
Dallas, then of Cantray. This was a fortunate marriage. The lady was
of excellent descent, clever and prudent. Her temper was not of the
best, and when provoked by the indolence or neglect of servants, and
others, she used to break into fits of anger, insisting on being
obeyed, and adding, "You forget who I am. I am daughter of Cantray
Doun and Cantray Dallas—("Is mis niçhean Cantra Douiz 's Contra
Dallash")—a saying afterwards proverbial in the family, and
meaningly thrown at the Maclean ladies by their male relatives when
they showed temper. Dochgarroch went out in the 'Fifteen, escaped
attainder, but was in concealment for some time, during which he
killed a soldier at Dochnalurg who had misbehaved himself. His
affairs were unsatisfactorily administered by his brother,
Alexander, a writer in Inverness. John Maclean had two sons,
Charles, who succeeded, and William; and although the different
accounts speak of another son John, said to be the eldest and to
have fallen at Culloden, I have found no verification, and the fact
that in William's contract of marriage he is called second lawful
son of the deceased John Maclean, late of Dochgarroch, with consent
of Charles Maclean of Dochgarroch, his elder brother german, would
indicate that there was no older brother called John. William
married Marie Mackintosh, second daughter of Lachlan Mackintosh of
Knochnageal, second brother of Brigadier Mackintosh, by his first
wife Mary Lockhart, contract dated at Nether Cullairds on the 6th of
November, 1751, and it is rather singular in respect that Marie
marries with consent of her eldest sister Janet, who signs the deed.
This Janet afterwards married the "strong" minister of Moy, Mr
Leslie. The date of John Maclean's death is uncertain. He was
succeeded by his son,
X. CHARLES, an
officer in the Black Watch in 1745. He married Marjorie, second
daughter of Angus Mackintosh of Drummond, contract dated 22nd of
November, 1753, and left four sons and three daughters, John,
Phineas, Angus, William, Janet, Marjory, and Barbara. Mrs Maclean
died before her husband, and he died in 1778.
XI. JOHN, the eldest
son, a young man of promise, was seized when in Grenada with a
stroke in 1777 which deprived him of reason—he died in 1826. Phineas
died young. Angus obtained the rank of Captain in the East Indian
Army and died at Calicut in 1794. Janet married her cousin once
removed, Captain Alexander Mackintosh, only son of William
Mackintosh and Janet Maclean formerly referred to—contract dated
23rd October, 1779. They were my grandfather and grandmother.
Marjory married Bailie Alexander Lee of Inverness, whose eldest
daughter, Jean, married Bailie Hugh Innes of Inverness; and Barbara
died unmarried.
XII. WILLIAM,
youngest son of Charles, succeeded his eldest brother John. He
served in various regiments and in different parts of the world, and
married Elizabeth Maclean of Rochester. He was of an easy temper and
involved himself and his family deeply. The money received from the
Canal Commissioners, over £2000, postponed the evil day. It was only
a question of time and whether John would outlive his brother,
William. If so, the estate had been safe. But John died in 1826, and
then Dochfour knew he would succeed, which he did in 1832, getting
the estate for £io,000, when 92 years of age.
According to general
belief, it was said that Dochfour had set apart under trustees large
sums lent to the Earl of Cawdor for the acquisition of Dunain when
it came into the market, as was pretty certain, and this is so far
corroborated by the fact that large sums amounting to over £50,000
were lent to Cawdor between i8io and 1827, called up however in
1840. William Maclean was an old man at the time of the sale, and it
was promised him that after a lease then current of the mansion
house and mains to his son expired he should not be removed. When
the lease expired however, in 1839, Dochgarroch was removed, and Mrs
Mackenzie, housekeeper at Dunain, writing to Miss Anne Baillie of
Dunain, then in Edinburgh, under date May, 1839, well expresses the
feeling in the district, when she says, "There is the greatest
sympathy with Dochgarroch in his having to leave the old place." He
died in October, 1841. How well I recollect the gathering in
December, 1838, when for the last time Dochgarroch and his son had
their near relatives from Dochnalurg at the usual Christmas dinner
at Dochgarroch. William left three sons, Allan, Charles, and
William, all deceased.
XIII. ALLAN died at
the Old House of Drummond, unmarried. Charles, Lieutenant-Colonel in
the army, retired after 47 years' active service, and died at
Woodside, Fortrose, in December, 1864, leaving one daughter,
Charlotte Amelia. William, the youngest son, left by his wife,
Elizabeth Henderson, four children. The second son,
XIV. ALLAN, succeeded
his uncle, and has by his wife Marion, daughter of the late Rev.
Edward Guilie, vicar of St. Lukes, Jersey, two sons and one
daughter—Allan Mackintosh, Hector, and Jessie. He lives at Brighton.
The population of
Bona has greatly diminished within the last fifty years. Abriachan
remains much the same, and the people have been kindly treated by
the Seafield family. The tenants of Dochnacraig in 1799 were:—Bona
—Donald Taylor; Lurgrnore—Donald Fraser Vic Harnish; Ballabarron—Alexander
Macandrew, Angus Cameron; Midtown—George More Ferguson, Widow
Ferguson, Christian Elder; Meeting-House—Widow Macallan; Uppertown
Thomas Vic Huistean's widow, Widow Alexander Mackenzie; Woodend—Donald
Dallas, Alexander Macdonald, John Macqueen; Caiplich—John Fraser's
widow, in all fourteen families, or about 100 souls. This list may
be compared with the Roll for 1894. The names of Ferguson and Dallas
have long been connected with Dochnacraig. Upon Dochcairn, Dochfour,
Dochnalurg, and the low lands of Dochgarroch, there are no tenants,
crofters, cottars, nor any except the employees of the estate, with
one or two exceptions. In my recollection -there were two cottars at
Dochcairn, three at Balnacruik, and one in the hill, called "Iain-mor-a-chraggan."
Upon Dochnalurg there were four cottars at the roadside, and three
at Battlefield. Upon Dochgarroch there were three tenants in
Ballimore; four tenants and cottars at Gortan-nan-gour, including a
tailor and a weaver; three cottars above the Caiplich road; five
cottars near the Canal, including a public-house and a smithy; five
tenants at Ballindarroch ; and two at the Snuff Mill, in all about
42 "smokes," which, overshadowed by the great house of Dochfour,
begun about 1838, has ended in their displacement, and the removal
of old boundaries and landmarks to such an extent that a new
carriage approach runs through the sites of the houses of
Gortannan-gour. The beauty of Little Loch Ness was destroyed by a
new road formed through it, necessitating the removal of a pretty
little islet, and the public inconvenienced by having to use this
new exposed road for nearly a mile, instead of the old sheltered
avenued road. Further, rights-of-way through Dochnalurg,
Gortan-nan-gour, and Dochgarroch, from the public road to the Hill
of Caiplich were obliterated, and lost to the public. None living in
Scotland, so far as I am aware, is responsible for these acts, yet
it is right they should be held in remembrance, occurring as they
did within sound of the church bells of Inverness.
Before parting with
this portion of the parish I give a view, looking northwards, of
Castle Spiritan ruins and garden. To the right at the top is part of
the lands of Glac-na-madaidh of Borlum. The water to the right is
the river, of old called Bona Narrows, that at the top is Little
Loch Ness, and to the left the inlet of Abban. The water between the
castle and garden was the moat, of which a portion to the left is
yet distinguishable.
ABRIACHAN.
The lands of
Abriachan extending to a davoch, or four ploughs, were gifted at an
early period to the Bishopric of Moray, and consisted of two
portions, Wester and Easter Abriachan, with the shielings of
Corryfoness. The division doubtless was Loch Lait, and the burn of
Abriachan, running out of the loch, falling into Loch Ness.
On the 6th December,
1334, John, Bishop of Moray, granted charter of a half davoch of his
lands of Abriachan, described as lying between the barony of Bonach
in the East, on the one side, and the barony of Urquhart on the
West, to Sir Robert de Lauder, Knight, for payment of an annual feu
of four merks Scots, together with other prestations. Sir Robert was
Governor of the Castle of Urquhart, and the whole lands in the
neighbourhood belonging to his successor having been resigned,
Alexander, Bishop of Moray, of new granted the half davoch of
Abriachan above referred to to Alexander Stewart, the Wolf of
Badenoch, on 3rd February, 1386. The two Abriachans are lost sight
of for about one hundred and fifty years, until 1544, when,
described as lying within the barony of Kinmylies, and lordship of
Spynie they are feued inter alia by the Bishop of Moray to Hugh Lord
Lovat by charter dated 13th May, 1544. They remained with the Lovat
family until 1647, when they were sold to Colonel Hugh Fraser of
Kinnairies, whose son Alexander Fraser re-sold them to Ludovick
Grant of Grant. The sale bears to be by Alexander Fraser (with
consent of David Poison of Kinmylies), including all the rights of
the said Alexander, of Katharine his spouse, of his deceased father,
and brother, and Agnes and Christian, grandchildren of the deceased
Colonel Hugh Fraser of Kin nairies, of the towns and lands of Easter
Abriachan and Wester Abriachan, grazings and shielings thereof
called Corryfoness, and Corriehulachie. Grant relieved Kinmylies,
which was henceforward to be disunited from Abriachan, of 20 merks
of the feu to superiors and 130 merks of minister's stipend. The
deed of sale is dated the 11th of June, 1695.
The lands were in
1704 put under wadset for 10,000 merks to James and Alexander
Fraser, elder and younger of Reelig, who conveyed the wadset in 1730
to Evan Baillie, younger son of Alexander Baillie, second of
Dochfour, from whose representatives the wadset was redeemed by Sir
James Grant of Grant, and the lands have since been in the actual
possession of the family. From a fragmentary sketch, neither signed
nor dated, an unknown writer refers to Sir James in these terms:—
"To his tenants Sir James was ever kind and at the commencement of
this century, during the years of famine, he prevented many of them,
especially the inhabitants of Glenurquhart, from emigrating to
America. He not only reduced but in many instances discounted the
rents altogether."
The extent of
Abriachan to the West in Caiplich, and consequently the Parish of
Bona, was greatly increased about 150 years ago. The right to cut
peats in the Mount of Caiplich was the subject of much controversy
between the owners and the Burgh of Inverness, which had by its
charter of 1591 such right conferred on the inhabitants, and many
acts of violence occurred. The Baillies of Dunain being nearest to
Inverness suffered most, and the extent of muir attached to Dunain
proper, was, further, of small extent, being confined to one
shieling called Ruy-Sluggan. The Baillies maintained that the old
Urquhart road was the march between the castle lands and Abriachan
on the one hand, with Lentran, Newton, Reelig, Lovat, and Belladrum
on the other, the proprietors of these estates concurring with
Dunain. As a rule when properties lie in distinct watersheds the
sky-line is the true boundary. As now determined, neither the
watershed nor Urquhart road forms the march between Inverness and
Bona parish and the parish of Kirkhill. In or about 1792 matters
came to a crisis. Abriachan claimed the burn of Caiplich, which in
its course becomes the burn of Tioniack, as its West march, while
the Lovat Trustees and Belladrum claimed the old road as their East
march. Further, Colonel John Baillie of Dunain and Sir James Grant
differed as to the marches towards the West, behind Easter Abriachan
and Dochnacraig. Various actions were raised, thereafter conjoined,
and ultimately in 1795 an arbitration by Mr Adam Rolland, advocate,
was agreed upon. Surveyors were appointed; the arbiter spent days on
the ground; old witnesses were called up from all quarters, and
eight years after taking up the business Mr Rolland in 1803 gave his
decision. This was entirely in favour of Abriachan, on the ground
mainly of more regular and actual possession of the subjects in
dispute and the behaviour of one person. This was Mr Evan Baillie,
writer in Inverness, long a confidential agent of Simon Lord Lovat,
who acted for the Trustees and Commissioners after the forfeiture,
and necessarily had much influence in the district. But Mr Baillie
was wadsetter of Abriachan, and as early as 1751 had frightened the
occupants, the tenants of Lovat and Belladrurn, and obtained some
kind of decree against them, the Crown Commissioners taking no
interest in the matter. Nothing could be more dangerous for two
conterminous proprietors than to have the same tenant of lands
immediately adjoining, unless the marches were absolutely defined in
writing or by plan. The decision of the arbiter as between
Dochnacraig and Abriachan was absurd even for a lawyer. Colonel
Baillie had the shieling of Treachorry in his titles, which is a
small valley watered in its centre by the burn of the same name, and
claimed the whole valley. Abriachan claimed one half, to the burn,
with nothing to support but acts of occasional possession. The
arbiter in one place distinctly discerns in favour of Colonel
Baillie's contention, and in another place as distinctly decides
that the burn of Treachorry is to be the march. This left matters as
they were, and Colonel Baillie having died pending the reference,
while up to 1869 the estate of Dunain was under curatory, the
question remained in abeyance. It was finally settled in 1871
between the representatives of the Earl of Seafield and Sir John
Ramsden by mutual concession and an agreement to plant on either
side of the march, here bleak, exposed, and much wanting
ornamentation. This decision and work I look back upon with
pleasure, with this drawback, that the last time I was in the
Caiplich the plantation on Treachorry seemed much inferior to those
on Renudin of Abriachan.
There was a track,
almost impassable for carts, along the loch side when it reached the
Ault Dearg. Consequently, as the great bulk of the houses in
Abriachan are situated well up the hill, and some, such as
Balnagriasaichean, Tomcon, etc., actually to the West of the old
Urquhart road, the people with loads as a rule travelled to
Inverness by the old road, descending at first by the Leachkin and
latterly by the Lagnalien connection. As matters now stand, the
loch-side road is an excellent one. There is the great convenience
of a pier, where the steamers regularly call, but the ascent from
the loch is very severe.
In no part of the
Highlands was smuggling carried on with greater vigour than in
Abriachan, which from the fine water, its unapproachableness in some
parts, its natural hiding places in others, rendered the pursuit of
the business a secure one.
The modern tombstones
at Killionan contrast most unfavourably with the few unique, ancient
memorials; and with regard to the great stone adjacent and the
time-honoured tradition that water never fails in its cup, it is to
be feared that it must be set down as a myth. |
