At Raasay, by good fortune, Macleod, so the chief of
the clan is called, was paying a visit, and by him we were invited to his seat at
Dunvegan. Raasay has a stout boat, built in Norway, in which, with six oars, he conveyed
us back to Sky. We landed at Port Re, so called, because James the Fifth of Scotland, who
had curiosity to visit the Islands, came into it. The port is made by an inlet of the sea,
deep and narrow, where a ship lay waiting to dispeople Sky, by carrying the natives away
In coasting Sky, we passed by the cavern in which
it was the custom, as Martin relates, to catch birds in the night, by making a fire at the
entrance. This practice is disused; for the birds, as is known often to happen, have
changed their haunts.
Here we dined at a publick house, I believe the only inn of the
island, and having mounted our horses, travelled in the manner already described, till we
came to Kingsborough, a place distinguished by that name, because the King lodged here
when he landed at Port Re. We were entertained with the usual hospitality by Mr. Macdonald
and his lady, Flora Macdonald, a name that will be mentioned in history, and if courage
and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour. She is a woman of middle stature, soft
features, gentle manners, and elegant presence.
In the morning we sent our horses round a promontory to meet us, and
spared ourselves part of the day's fatigue, by crossing an arm of the sea. We had at last
some difficulty in coming to Dunvegan; for our way led over an extensive moor, where every
step was to be taken with caution, and we were often obliged to alight, because the ground
could not be trusted. In travelling this watery flat, I perceived that it had a visible
declivity, and might without much expence or difficulty be drained. But difficulty and
expence are relative terms, which have different meanings in different places.
To Dunvegan we came, very willing to be at rest, and found our
fatigue amply recompensed by our reception. Lady Macleod, who had lived many years in
England, was newly come hither with her son and four daughters, who knew all the arts of
southern elegance, and all the modes of English economy. Here therefore we settled, and
did not spoil the present hour with thoughts of departure.
Dunvegan is a rocky prominence, that juts out into a bay, on the
west side of Sky. The house, which is the principal seat of Macleod, is partly old and
partly modern; it is built upon the rock, and looks upon the water. It forms two sides of
a small square: on the third side is the skeleton of a castle of unknown antiquity,
supposed to have been a Norwegian fortress, when the Danes were masters of the Islands. It
is so nearly entire, that it might have easily been made habitable, were there not an
ominous tradition in the family, that the owner shall not long outlive the reparation. The
grandfather of the present Laird, in defiance of prediction, began the work, but desisted
in a little time, and applied his money to worse uses.
As the inhabitants of the Hebrides lived, for many ages, in
continual expectation of hostilities, the chief of every clan resided in a fortress. This
house was accessible only from the water, till the last possessor opened an entrance by
stairs upon the land.
They had formerly reason to be afraid, not only of declared wars and
authorized invaders, or of roving pirates, which, in the northern seas, must have been
very common; but of inroads and insults from rival clans, who, in the plenitude of feudal
independence, asked no leave of their Sovereign to make war on one another. Sky has been
ravaged by a feud between the two mighty powers of Macdonald and Macleod. Macdonald having
married a Macleod upon some discontent dismissed her, perhaps because she had brought him
no children. Before the reign of James the Fifth, a Highland Laird made a trial of his
wife for a certain time, and if she did not please him, he was then at liberty to send her
This however must always have offended, and Macleod resenting the
injury, whatever were its circumstances, declared, that the wedding had been solemnized
without a bonfire, but that the separation should be better illuminated; and raising a
little army, set fire to the territories of Macdonald, who returned the visit, and
Another story may show the disorderly state of insular
neighbourhood. The inhabitants of the Isle of Egg, meeting a boat manned by Macleods, tied
the crew hand and foot, and set them a-drift. Macleod landed upon Egg, and demanded the
offenders; but the inhabitants refusing to surrender them, retreated to a cavern, into
which they thought their enemies unlikely to follow them.
Macleod choked them with smoke, and left them lying dead by families
as they stood.
Here the violence of the weather confined us for some time, not at
all to our discontent or inconvenience. We would indeed very willingly have visited the
Islands, which might be seen from the house scattered in the sea, and I was particularly
desirous to have viewed Isay; but the storms did not permit us to launch a boat, and we
were condemned to listen in idleness to the wind, except when we were better engaged by
listening to the ladies.
We had here more wind than waves, and suffered the severity of a
tempest, without enjoying its magnificence. The sea being broken by the multitude of
islands, does not roar with so much noise, nor beat the shore with such foamy violence, as
I have remarked on the coast of Sussex. Though, while I was in the Hebrides, the wind was
extremely turbulent, I never saw very high billows.
The country about Dunvegan is rough and barren. There are no trees,
except in the orchard, which is a low sheltered spot surrounded with a wall.
When this house was intended to sustain a siege, a well was made in
the court, by boring the rock downwards, till water was found, which though so near to the
sea, I have not heard mentioned as brackish, though it has some hardness, or other
qualities, which make it less fit for use; and the family is now better supplied from a
stream, which runs by the rock, from two pleasing water-falls.
Here we saw some traces of former manners, and heard some standing
traditions. In the house is kept an ox's horn, hollowed so as to hold perhaps two quarts,
which the heir of Macleod was expected to swallow at one draught, as a test of his
manhood, before he was permitted to bear arms, or could claim a seat among the men. It is
held that the return of the Laird to Dunvegan, after any considerable absence, produces a
plentiful capture of herrings; and that, if any woman crosses the water to the opposite
Island, the herrings will desert the coast. Boetius tells the same of some other place.
This tradition is not uniform. Some hold that no woman may pass, and others that none may
pass but a Macleod.
Among other guests, which the hospitality of Dunvegan brought to the
table, a visit was paid by the Laird and Lady of a small island south of Sky, of which the
proper name is Muack, which signifies swine. It is commonly called Muck, which the
proprietor not liking, has endeavoured, without effect, to change to Monk. It is usual to
call gentlemen in Scotland by the name of their possessions, as Raasay, Bernera, Loch Buy,
a practice necessary in countries inhabited by clans, where all that live in the same
territory have one name, and must be therefore discriminated by some addition. This
gentleman, whose name, I think, is Maclean, should be regularly called Muck; but the
appellation, which he thinks too coarse for his Island, he would like still less for
himself, and he is therefore addressed by the title of, Isle of Muck.
This little Island, however it be named, is of considerable value.
It is two English miles long, and three quarters of a mile broad, and consequently
contains only nine hundred and sixty English acres. It is chiefly arable. Half of this
little dominion the Laird retains in his own hand, and on the other half, live one hundred
and sixty persons, who pay their rent by exported corn.
What rent they pay, we were not told, and could not decently
inquire. The proportion of the people to the land is such, as the most fertile countries
do not commonly maintain.
The Laird having all his people under his immediate view, seems to
be very attentive to their happiness. The devastation of the small-pox, when it visits
places where it comes seldom, is well known. He has disarmed it of its terrour at Muack,
by inoculating eighty of his people. The expence was two shillings and sixpence a head.
Many trades they cannot have among them, but upon occasion, he fetches a smith from the
Isle of Egg, and has a tailor from the main land, six times a year. This island well
deserved to be seen, but the Laird's absence left us no opportunity.
Every inhabited island has its appendant and subordinate islets.
Muck, however small, has yet others smaller about it, one of which has only ground
sufficient to afford pasture for three wethers.
At Dunvegan I had tasted lotus, and was in danger of forgetting that
I was ever to depart, till Mr. Boswell sagely reproached me with my sluggishness and
softness. I had no very forcible defence to make; and we agreed to pursue our journey.
Macleod accompanied us to Ulinish, where we were entertained by the sheriff of the Island.